diff options
Diffstat (limited to '16565-h')
| -rw-r--r-- | 16565-h/16565-h.htm | 19263 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16565-h/images/lc_001_h.jpg | bin | 0 -> 3823248 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16565-h/images/lc_001_m.jpg | bin | 0 -> 123349 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16565-h/images/lc_001_t.jpg | bin | 0 -> 14757 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16565-h/images/lc_263_f.jpg | bin | 0 -> 569835 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16565-h/images/lc_263_t.jpg | bin | 0 -> 183639 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16565-h/images/lc_62_f.jpg | bin | 0 -> 488677 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16565-h/images/lc_62_t.jpg | bin | 0 -> 56457 bytes |
8 files changed, 19263 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/16565-h/16565-h.htm b/16565-h/16565-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4564b27 --- /dev/null +++ b/16565-h/16565-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,19263 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en" xml:lang="en"> + + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of the HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION UNDER THE COMMAND OF + CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK by MERIWETHER LEWIS + </title> + + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ + + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */ + .blockquot{margin-left: 8%; margin-right: 8%;} + + .bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} + .bl {border-left: solid 2px;} + .bt {border-top: solid 2px;} + .br {border-right: solid 2px;} + .bbox {border: solid 2px;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .let_date {margin-left: 70%;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align: super; font-size: .6em; text-decoration: none;} + + div.centered {text-align: center;} + div.centered table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;} + + ins.correction {text-decoration: none; border-bottom: thin dotted red;} + .return {text-align: center; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 0; text-indent: 0; font-size: 85%} + .pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: 70%; text-align: right;} /* page numbers */ + + .photo_attribution {text-align: right; margin-top: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em; font-size: 70%} + .photo_text {text-align: center; font-size: 90%} + .part_text {margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; font-size: 90%} + + .part_sig {margin-left: 60%; font-variant: small-caps;} + + .sig_1 {margin-left: 60%;} + .sig_2 {margin-left: 50%;} + + .title {text-align: center;} + .trans_note {margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; font-size: 0.9em; border: solid 2px; + padding-bottom: .2em; padding-top: .2em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} + + .poetindent {width: 30px} + + .address { /* author location at end of Preface */ + margin-left: 3%; + font-variant: small-caps; + } + + .tocel {text-align: left;} + .tocpg {text-align: right; vertical-align: bottom;} + + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of History of the Expedition under the Command +of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I., by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I. + To The Sources Of The Missouri, Thence Across The Rocky + Mountains And Down The River Columbia To The Pacific Ocean. + Performed During The Years 1804-5-6. + +Author: Meriwether Lewis and William Clark + +Editor: Paul Allen + +Release Date: August 20, 2005 [EBook #16565] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEWIS AND CLARK, I. *** + + + + +Produced by The Library of Congress, Marilynda +Fraser-Cunliffe, Peter Barozzi and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<div class="trans_note"> +<p class="center"><big>Transcriber's Note</big></p> +<p> + + Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as + possible, including obsolete and variant spellings and other + inconsistencies. Text that has been changed to correct an + obvious error by the publisher is marked with a + <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The original word would be shown here.">"hover note."</ins> +</p> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_m.jpg" width="600" height="259" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + +<!-- Route Legend (for reference purposes, if needed) + +<p>[Illustration: A Map of Lewis and Clark's Track, +Across the Western Portion of North America, +From the Mississippi to the Pacific Ocean; +by Order of the Executive of the United States, in 1804. 5&6. +Copied by Samuel Lewis from the Original Drawing by Wm. Clark.]</p> + +--> + + + + +<h1>HISTORY<br /></h1> + +<h2>OF<br /></h2> + +<h1>THE EXPEDITION<br /></h1> + +<p class="title">UNDER THE COMMAND OF<br /></p> + +<h2><i>CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK,</i><br /></h2> + +<p class="title">TO<br /></p> + +<h2>THE SOURCES OF THE MISSOURI,<br /></h2> + +<p class="title">THENCE<br /></p> + +<h2>ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS<br /></h2> + +<p class="title">AND DOWN THE<br /></p> + +<h2>RIVER COLUMBIA TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.<br /></h2> + +<h3>PERFORMED DURING THE YEARS 1804-5-6.<br /><br /></h3> + +<p class="title">By order of the<br /></p> + +<h3>GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES.<br /><br /></h3> + + +<p class="title">PREPARED FOR THE PRESS</p> + +<h3>BY PAUL ALLEN, ESQUIRE.<br /></h3> + +<p class="title">IN TWO VOLUMES.<br /><br /> + +VOL. I.<br /><br /> + + +<i>PHILADELPHIA</i><br /><br /> + +PUBLISHED BY BRADFORD AND INSKEEP; AND<br /> +ABM. H. INSKEEP, NEW YORK.<br /> +J. Maxwell, Printer<br /> +1814.<br /><br /><br /><br /> +</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-27" id="Pg_-27" title="Pg_-27">[ii]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit:</p> + + +<p>BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-second day of January, in the +thirty-eighth year of the independence of the United States of America, A.D.1814, +Bradford and Inskeep, of the said district, have deposited in this office the title of a +book, the right whereof they claim as proprietors, in the words following, to wit:</p> + +<p>"History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, +to the Sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky Mountains, and down the +River Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. Performed during the Years 1804-5-6, by +order of the Government of the United States. Prepared for the press by Paul +Allen, Esquire."</p> + +<p>In conformity to the act of Congress of the United States, entitled "An act for +the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, +to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned." +And also to the act, entitled, "An act supplementary to an act, entitled, "An +act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and +books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned," +and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and +etching historical and other prints."</p></div> + + +<p class="sig_1">DAVID CALDWELL,<br /></p> +<p class="sig_2">Clerk of the District of Pennsylvania.<br /></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-26" id="Pg_-26" title="Pg_-26">[iii]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> + +<p>In presenting these volumes to the public, the editor +owes equally to himself and to others, to state the circumstances +which have preceded the publication, and to explain +his own share in compiling them.</p> + +<p>It was the original design of captain Lewis to have been +himself the editor of his own travels, and he was on his +way towards Philadelphia for that purpose when his sudden +death frustrated these intentions. After a considerable +and unavoidable delay, the papers connected with +the expedition were deposited with another gentleman, who, +in order to render the lapse of time as little injurious as possible, +proceeded immediately to collect and investigate all +the materials within his reach.</p> + +<p>Of the incidents of each day during the expedition, a minute +journal was kept by captain Lewis or captain Clark, +and sometimes by both, which was afterwards revised and +enlarged at the different periods of leisure which occurred +on the route. These were carefully perused in conjunction +with captain Clark himself, who was able from his own recollection +of the journey, as well as from a constant residence +in Louisiana since his return, to supply a great mass of explanations, +and much additional information with regard to +part of the route which has been more recently explored. +Besides these, recourse was had to the manuscript journals +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-25" id="Pg_-25" title="Pg_-25">[iv]</a></span>kept by two of the serjeants, one of which, the least minute +and valuable, has already been published. That nothing +might be wanting to the accuracy of these details, a very +intelligent and active member of the party, Mr. George +Shannon, was sent to contribute whatever his memory +might add to this accumulated fund of information.</p> + +<p>From these copious materials the narrative was sketched +nearly in its present form, when other pursuits diverted the +attention of the writer, and compelled him to transfer his +manuscript, in its unfinished state, with all the documents +connected with it, to the present editor, to prepare them for +the press and superintend the publication. That he may not +seem to arrogate any thing from the exertions of others, he +should therefore state that, although the whole work was +thus submitted to his entire discretion, he found but little to +change, and that his labour has been principally confined to +revising the manuscript, comparing it with the original papers, +and inserting such additional matter as appears to have +been intentionally deferred by the writer till the period +of a more mature revisal. These circumstances, which +would otherwise be indifferent to the public, are mentioned +merely to account for imperfections, which are in some +degree inseparable from any book of travels not written +by the traveller. In a work of pure description indeed, +like the present, where the incidents themselves are +the sole objects of attraction, the part of an editor is necessarily +subordinate, nor can his humble pretensions aspire +beyond the merit of rigid adherence to facts as they are +stated to him. This has been very diligently attempted, +and for this, in its full extent, the editor deems himself +responsible.</p> + +<p>The present volumes, it will be perceived, comprise only +the narrative of the journey. Those parts of the work which +relate to the various objects of natural history, observed or +collected during the journey, as well as the alphabets of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-24" id="Pg_-24" title="Pg_-24">[v]</a></span>Indian languages, are in the hands of professor Bartou, +and will, it is understood, shortly appear.</p> + +<p>To give still further interest to the work, the editor addressed +a letter to Mr. Jefferson, requesting some authentic +memoirs of captain Lewis. For the very curious and valuable +information contained in his answer, the public, as well +as the editor himself, owe great obligations to the politeness +and knowledge of that distinguished gentleman.</p> + + +<p class="sig_1">PAUL ALLEN.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Philadelphia</span>, January 1, 1814.<br /></p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-22" id="Pg_-22" title="Pg_-22">[vii]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LIFE_OF_CAPTAIN_LEWIS" id="LIFE_OF_CAPTAIN_LEWIS"></a>LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS.</h2> + +<p class="let_date"><i>Monticello, August</i> 18, 1813.</p> + +<p>SIR,</p> + +<p>In compliance with the request conveyed in your letter +of May 25, I have endeavoured to obtain, from the relations +and friends of the late governor Lewis, information of such +incidents of his life as might be not unacceptable to those +who may read the narrative of his western discoveries. The +ordinary occurrences of a private life, and those also while +acting in a subordinate sphere in the army, in a time of +peace, are not deemed sufficiently interesting to occupy the +public attention; but a general account of his parentage, +with such smaller incidents as marked his early character +are briefly noted; and to these are added, as being peculiarly +within my own knowledge, whatever related to the public +mission, of which an account is now to be published. The +result of my inquiries and recollections shall now be offered, +to be enlarged or abridged as you may think best; or otherwise +to be used with the materials you may have collected +from other sources.</p> + +<p>Meriwether Lewis, late governor of Louisiana, was born +on the eighteenth of August, 1774, near the town of Charlottesville, +in the county of Albemarle, in Virginia, of one +of the distinguished families of that state. John Lewis, one +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-21" id="Pg_-21" title="Pg_-21">[viii]</a></span>of his father's uncles was a member of the king's council, +before the revolution. Another of them, Fielding Lewis, +married a sister of general Washington. His father, William +Lewis, was the youngest of five sons of colonel Robert +Lewis, of Albemarle, the fourth of whom, Charles, was one +of the early patriots who stepped forward in the commencement +of the revolution and commanded one of the regiments +first raised in Virginia, and placed on continental establishment. +Happily situated at home, with a wife and young +family, and a fortune placing him at ease, he left all to aid +in the liberation of his country from foreign usurpations, +then first unmasking their ultimate end and aim. His good +sense, integrity, bravery, enterprise, and remarkable bodily +powers, marked him as an officer of great promise; but he +unfortunately died early in the revolution. Nicholas Lewis, +the second of his father's brothers, commanded a regiment +of militia in the successful expedition of 1776, against the +Cherokee Indians; who, seduced by the agents of the British +government to take up the hatchet against us, had committed +great havoc on our southern frontier, by murdering and +scalping helpless women and children, according to their +cruel and cowardly principles of warfare. The chastisement +they then received closed the history of their wars, and prepared +them for receiving the elements of civilization, which, +zealously inculcated by the present government of the United +States, have rendered them an industrious, peaceable, +and happy people. This member of the family of Lewises, +whose bravery was so usefully proved on this occasion, was +endeared to all who knew him by his inflexible probity, +courteous disposition, benevolent heart, and engaging modesty +and manners. He was the umpire of all the private +differences of his county—selected always by both parties. +He was also the guardian of Meriwether Lewis, of whom +we are now to speak, and who had lost his father at an early +age. He continued some years under the fostering care of a +tender mother, of the respectable family of Meriwethers, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-20" id="Pg_-20" title="Pg_-20">[ix]</a></span>of the same county; and was remarkable even in infancy +for enterprise, boldness, and discretion. When only eight +years of age he habitually went out, in the dead of night, +alone with his dogs, into the forest to hunt the raccoon and +opossum, which, seeking their food in the night, can then +only be taken. In this exercise, no season or circumstance +could obstruct his purpose—plunging through the winter's +snows and frozen streams in pursuit of his object. At thirteen +he was put to the Latin school, and continued at that +until eighteen, when he returned to his mother, and entered +on the cares of his farm; having, as well as a younger brother, +been left by his father with a competency for all the +correct and comfortable purposes of temperate life. His talent +for observation, which had led him to an accurate knowledge +of the plants and animals of his own country, would +have distinguished him as a farmer; but at the age of twenty, +yielding to the ardour of youth, and a passion for more +dazzling pursuits, he engaged as a volunteer in the body of +militia which were called out by general Washington, on +occasion of the discontents produced by the excise taxes in +the western parts of the United States; and from that situation +he was removed to the regular service as a lieutenant +in the line. At twenty-three he was promoted to a captaincy; +and, always attracting the first attention where punctuality +and fidelity were requisite, he was appointed paymaster +to his regiment. About this time a circumstance occurred +which, leading to the transaction which is the subject +of this book, will justify a recurrence to its original idea. +While I resided in Paris, John Ledyard, of Connecticut, arrived +there, well known in the United States for energy of +body and mind. He had accompanied captain Cook on his +voyage to the Pacific ocean; and distinguished himself on +that voyage by his intrepidity. Being of a roaming disposition, +he was now panting for some new enterprise. His +immediate object at Paris was to engage a mercantile company +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-19" id="Pg_-19" title="Pg_-19">[x]</a></span>in the fur-trade of the western coast of America, in +which, however, he failed. I then proposed to him to go by +land to Kamschatka, cross in some of the Russian vessels to +Nootka Sound, fall down into the latitude of the Missouri, +and penetrate to, and through, that to the United States. +He eagerly seized the idea, and only asked to be assured of +the permission of the Russian government. I interested, in +obtaining that, M. de Simoulin, minister plenipotentiary of +the empress at Paris, but more especially the baron de +Grimm, minister plenipotentiary of Saxe-Gotha, her more +special agent and correspondent there in matters not immediately +diplomatic. Her permission was obtained, and an +assurance of protection while the course of the voyage +should be through her territories. Ledyard set out from +Paris, and arrived at St. Petersburgh after the empress had +left that place to pass the winter, I think, at Moscow. His +finances not permitting him to make unnecessary stay at St. +Petersburgh, he left it with a passport from one of the ministers; +and at two hundred miles from Kamschatka, was +obliged to take up his winter quarters. He was preparing, +in the spring, to resume his journey, when he was arrested +by an officer of the empress, who by this time had changed +her mind, and forbidden his proceeding. He was put into a +close carriage, and conveyed day and night, without ever +stopping, till they reached Poland; where he was set down +and left to himself. The fatigue of this journey broke down +his constitution; and when he returned to Paris his bodily +strength was much impaired. His mind, however, remained +firm, and he after this undertook the journey to Egypt. I +received a letter from him, full of sanguine hopes, dated at +Cairo, the fifteenth of November, 1788, the day before he +was to set out for the head of the Nile; on which day, however, +he ended his career and life: and thus failed the first +attempt to explore the western part of our northern continent.</p> + +<p>In 1792, I proposed to the American Philosophical Society +that we should set on foot a subscription to engage some +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-18" id="Pg_-18" title="Pg_-18">[xi]</a></span>competent person to explore that region in the opposite direction; +that is, by ascending the Missouri, crossing the Stony +mountains, and descending the nearest river to the Pacific. +Captain Lewis being then stationed at Charlottesville, +on the recruiting service, warmly solicited me to obtain for +him the execution of that object. I told him it was proposed +that the person engaged should be attended by a single +companion only, to avoid exciting alarm among the Indians. +This did not deter him; but Mr. Andre Michaux, a +professed botanist, author of the Flora Boreali-Americana, +and of the Histoire des Chesnes d'Amerique, offering his +services, they were accepted. He received his instructions, +and when he had reached Kentucky in the prosecution of +his journey, he was overtaken by an order from the minister +of France, then at Philadelphia, to relinquish the expedition, +and to pursue elsewhere the botanical inquiries on +which he was employed by that government: and thus failed +the second attempt for exploring that region.</p> + +<p>In 1803, the act for establishing trading houses with the +Indian tribes being about to expire, some modifications of it +were recommended to congress by a confidential message of +January 18th, and an extension of its views to the Indians +on the Missouri. In order to prepare the way, the message +proposed the sending an exploring party to trace the Missouri +to its source, to cross the Highlands, and follow the +best water-communication which offered itself from thence +to the Pacific ocean. Congress approved the proposition, +and voted a sum of money for carrying it into execution. +Captain Lewis, who had then been near two years with me +as private secretary, immediately renewed his solicitations +to have the direction of the party. I had now had opportunities +of knowing him intimately. Of courage undaunted; +possessing a firmness and perseverance of purpose which +nothing but impossibilities could divert from its direction; +careful as a father of those committed to his charge, yet +steady in the maintenance of order and discipline; intimate +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-17" id="Pg_-17" title="Pg_-17">[xii]</a></span>with the Indian character, customs, and principles; habituated +to the hunting life; guarded, by exact observation of +the vegetables and animals of his own country, against losing +time in the description of objects already possessed; honest, +disinterested, liberal, of sound understanding, and a fidelity +to truth so scrupulous, that whatever he should report would +be as certain as if seen by ourselves; with all these qualifications, +as if selected and implanted by nature in one body +for this express purpose, I could have no hesitation in confiding +the enterprise to him. To fill up the measure desired, +he wanted nothing but a greater familiarity with the technical +language of the natural sciences, and readiness in the +astronomical observations necessary for the geography of +his route. To acquire these he repaired immediately to +Philadelphia, and placed himself under the tutorage of the +distinguished professors of that place, who with a zeal and +emulation, enkindled by an ardent devotion to science, communicated +to him freely the information requisite for the +purposes of the journey. While attending too, at Lancaster, +the fabrication of the arms with which he chose that +his men should be provided, he had the benefit of daily communication +with Mr. Andrew Ellicot, whose experience in +astronomical observation, and practice of it in the woods, +enabled him to apprise captain Lewis of the wants and difficulties +he would encounter, and of the substitutes and resources +offered by a woodland and uninhabited country.</p> + +<p>Deeming it necessary he should have some person with +him of known competence to the direction of the enterprise, +in the event of accident to himself, he proposed William +Clarke, brother of general George Rogers Clarke, who was +approved, and, with that view, received a commission of +captain.</p> + +<p>In April, 1803, a draught of his instructions was sent to +captain Lewis, and on the twentieth of June they were signed +in the following form:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-16" id="Pg_-16" title="Pg_-16">[xiii]</a></span>"To Meriwether Lewis, esquire, captain of the first regiment +of infantry of the United States of America:</p> + +<p>"Your situation as secretary of the president of the United +States, has made you acquainted with the objects of my +confidential message of January 18, 1803, to the legislature; +you have seen the act they passed, which, though expressed +in general terms, was meant to sanction those objects, and +you are appointed to carry them into execution.</p> + +<p>"Instruments for ascertaining, by celestial observations, +the geography of the country through which you will pass, +have been already provided. Light articles for barter and +presents among the Indians, arms for your attendants, say +for from ten to twelve men, boats, tents, and other travelling +apparatus, with ammunition, medicine, surgical instruments, +and provisions, you will have prepared, with such aids +as the secretary at war can yield in his department; and from +him also you will receive authority to engage among our +troops, by voluntary agreement, the number of attendants +abovementioned; over whom you, as their commanding officer, +are invested with all the powers the laws give in such +a case.</p> + +<p>"As your movements, while within the limits of the United +States, will be better directed by occasional communications, +adapted to circumstances as they arise, they will +not be noticed here. What follows will respect your proceedings +after your departure from the United States.</p> + +<p>"Your mission has been communicated to the ministers +here from France, Spain, and Great Britain, and through +them to their governments; and such assurances given them +as to its objects, as we trust will satisfy them. The country +of Louisiana having been ceded by Spain to France, the +passport you have from the minister of France, the representative +of the present sovereign of the country, will be a +protection with all its subjects; and that from the minister +of England will entitle you to the friendly aid of any traders +of that allegiance with whom you may happen to meet.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-15" id="Pg_-15" title="Pg_-15">[xiv]</a></span>"The object of your mission is to explore the Missouri +river, and such principal streams of it, as, by its course and +communication with the waters of the Pacific ocean, whether +the Columbia, Oregan, Colorado, or any other river, +may offer the most direct and practicable water-communication +across the continent, for the purposes of commerce.</p> + +<p>"Beginning at the mouth of the Missouri, you will take +observations of latitude and longitude, at all remarkable +points on the river, and especially at the mouths of rivers, +at rapids, at islands, and other places and objects distinguished +by such natural marks and characters, of a durable +kind, as that they may with certainty be recognised hereafter. +The courses of the river between these points of observation +may be supplied by the compass, the log-line, and by +time, corrected by the observations themselves. The variations +of the needle, too, in different places, should be noticed.</p> + +<p>"The interesting points of the portage between the heads +of the Missouri, and of the water offering the best communication +with the Pacific ocean, should also be fixed by observation; +and the course of that water to the ocean, in the +same manner as that of the Missouri.</p> + +<p>"Your observations are to be taken with great pains and +accuracy; to be entered distinctly and intelligibly for others +as well as yourself; to comprehend all the elements necessary, +with the aid of the usual tables, to fix the latitude and +longitude of the places at which they were taken; and are to +be rendered to the war-office, for the purpose of having the +calculations made concurrently by proper persons within the +United States. Several copies of these, as well as of your +other notes, should be made at leisure times, and put into +the care of the most trust-worthy of your attendants to +guard, by multiplying them against the accidental losses to +which they will be exposed. A further guard would be, that +one of these copies be on the cuticular membranes of the +paper-birch, as less liable to injury from damp than common +paper.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-14" id="Pg_-14" title="Pg_-14">[xv]</a></span>"The commerce which may be carried on with the people +inhabiting the line you will pursue, renders a knowledge +of those people important. You will therefore endeavour +to make yourself acquainted, as far as a diligent pursuit of +your journey shall admit, with the names of the nations and +their numbers;</p> + +<p>"The extent and limits of their possessions;</p> + +<p>"Their relations with other tribes or nations;</p> + +<p>"Their language, traditions, monuments;</p> + +<p>"Their ordinary occupations in agriculture, fishing, +hunting, war, arts, and the implements for these;</p> + +<p>"Their food, clothing, and domestic accommodations;</p> + +<p>"The diseases prevalent among them, and the remedies +they use;</p> + +<p>"Moral and physical circumstances which distinguish +them from the tribes we know;</p> + +<p>"Peculiarities in their laws, customs, and dispositions;</p> + +<p>"And articles of commerce they may need or furnish, +and to what extent.</p> + +<p>"And, considering the interest which every nation has +in extending and strengthening the authority of reason and +justice among the people around them, it will be useful to +acquire what knowledge you can of the state of morality, +religion, and information among them; as it may better enable +those who may endeavour to civilize and instruct them, +to adapt their measures to the existing notions and practices +of those on whom they are to operate.</p> + +<p>"Other objects worthy of notice will be—</p> + +<p>"The soil and face of the country, its growth and vegetable +productions, especially those not of the United States;</p> + +<p>"The animals of the country generally, and especially +those not known in the United States;</p> + +<p>"The remains and accounts of any which may be deemed +rare or extinct;</p> + +<p>"The mineral productions of every kind, but more particularly +metals, lime-stone, pit-coal, and saltpetre; salines +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-13" id="Pg_-13" title="Pg_-13">[xvi]</a></span>and mineral waters, noting the temperature of the last, and +such circumstances as may indicate their character;</p> + +<p>"Volcanic appearances;</p> + +<p>"Climate, as characterized by the thermometer, by the +proportion of rainy, cloudy, and clear days; by lightning, +hail, snow, ice; by the access and recess of frost; by the +winds prevailing at different seasons; the dates at which particular +plants put forth, or lose their flower or leaf; times +of appearance of particular birds, reptiles or insects.</p> + +<p>"Although your route will be along the channel of the +Missouri, yet you will endeavour to inform yourself, by inquiry, +of the character and extent of the country watered +by its branches, and especially on its southern side. The +North river, or Rio Bravo, which runs into the gulf of +Mexico, and the North river, or Rio Colorado, which runs +into the gulf of California, are understood to be the principal +streams heading opposite to the waters of the Missouri, +and running southwardly. Whether the dividing +grounds between the Missouri and them are mountains or +flat lands, what are their distance from the Missouri, the +character of the intermediate country, and the people inhabiting +it, are worthy of particular inquiry. The northern +waters of the Missouri are less to be inquired after, because +they have been ascertained to a considerable degree, and are +still in a course of ascertainment by English traders and +travellers; but if you can learn any thing certain of the most +northern source of the Missisipi, and of its position relatively +to the Lake of the Woods, it will be interesting to us. +Some account too of the path of the Canadian traders from +the Missisipi, at the mouth of the Onisconsing to where +it strikes the Missouri, and of the soil and rivers in its course, +is desirable.</p> + +<p>"In all your intercourse with the natives, treat them in +the most friendly and conciliatory manner which their own +conduct will admit; allay all jealousies as to the object of +your journey; satisfy them of its innocence; make them acquainted +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-12" id="Pg_-12" title="Pg_-12">[xvii]</a></span>with the position, extent, character, peaceable and +commercial dispositions of the United States; of our wish to +be neighbourly, friendly, and useful to them, and of our dispositions +to a commercial intercourse with them; confer +with them on the points most convenient as mutual emporiums, +and the articles of most desirable interchange for them +and us. If a few of their influential chiefs, within practicable +distance, wish to visit us, arrange such a visit with them, +and furnish them with authority to call on our officers on +their entering the United States, to have them conveyed to +this place at the public expense. If any of them should wish +to have some of their young people brought up with us, and +taught such arts as may be useful to them, we will receive, +instruct, and take care of them. Such a mission, whether +of influential chiefs, or of young people, would give some +security to your own party. Carry with you some matter +of the kine-pox; inform those of them with whom you may +be of its efficacy as a preservative from the small-pox, and +instruct and encourage them in the use of it. This may be +especially done wherever you winter.</p> + +<p>"As it is impossible for us to foresee in what manner you +will be received by those people, whether with hospitality +or hostility, so is it impossible to prescribe the exact degree +of perseverance with which you are to pursue your journey. +We value too much the lives of citizens to offer them to probable +destruction. Your numbers will be sufficient to secure +you against the unauthorized opposition of individuals, +or of small parties; but if a superior force, authorized, or +not authorized, by a nation, should be arrayed against your +further passage, and inflexibly determined to arrest it, you +must decline its further pursuit and return. In the loss of +yourselves we should lose also the information you will have +acquired. By returning safely with that, you may enable +us to renew the essay with better calculated means. To your +own discretion, therefore, must be left the degree of danger +you may risk, and the point at which you should decline, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-11" id="Pg_-11" title="Pg_-11">[xviii]</a></span>only saying, we wish you to err on the side of your safety, +and to bring back your party safe, even if it be with less +information.</p> + +<p>"As far up the Missouri as the white settlements extend, +an intercourse will probably be found to exist between +them and the Spanish posts of St. Louis opposite Cahokia, +or St. Genevieve opposite Kaskaskia. From still further +up the river the traders may furnish a conveyance for letters. +Beyond that you may perhaps be able to engage Indians +to bring letters for the government to Cahokia, or +Kaskaskia, on promising that they shall there receive such +special compensation as you shall have stipulated with them. +Avail yourself of these means to communicate to us, at seasonable +intervals, a copy of your journal, notes and observations +of every kind, putting into cypher whatever might +do injury if betrayed.</p> + +<p>"Should you reach the Pacific ocean, inform yourself of +the circumstances which may decide whether the furs of +those parts may not be collected as advantageously at the +head of the Missouri (convenient as is supposed to the waters +of the Colorado and Oregan or Columbia) as at Nootka +Sound, or any other point of that coast; and that trade be +consequently conducted through the Missouri and United +States more beneficially than by the circumnavigation now +practised.</p> + +<p>"On your arrival on that coast, endeavour to learn if +there be any port within your reach frequented by the sea +vessels of any nation, and to send two of your trusty people +back by sea, in such way as shall appear practicable, with a +copy of your notes; and should you be of opinion that the +return of your party by the way they went will be imminently +dangerous, then ship the whole, and return by sea, +by the way either of Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good Hope, +as you shall be able. As you will be without money, clothes, +or provisions, you must endeavour to use the credit of the +United States to obtain them; for which purpose open letters +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-10" id="Pg_-10" title="Pg_-10">[xix]</a></span>of credit shall be furnished you, authorizing you to draw on +the executive of the United States, or any of its officers, in +any part of the world, on which draughts can be disposed +of, and to apply with our recommendations to the consuls, +agents, merchants, or citizens of any nation with which we +have intercourse, assuring them, in our name, that any aids +they may furnish you shall be honourably repaid, and on +demand. Our consuls, Thomas Hewes, at Batavia, in Java, +William Buchanan, in the Isles of France and Bourbon, and +John Elmslie, at the Cape of Good Hope, will be able to +supply your necessities, by draughts on us.</p> + +<p>"Should you find it safe to return by the way you go, +after sending two of your party round by sea, or with your +whole party, if no conveyance by sea can be found, do so; +making such observations on your return as may serve to +supply, correct, or confirm those made on your outward +journey.</p> + +<p>"On reentering the United States and reaching a place +of safety, discharge any of your attendants who may desire +and deserve it, procuring for them immediate payment of all +arrears of pay and clothing which may have incurred since +their departure, and assure them that they shall be recommended +to the liberality of the legislature for the grant of +a soldier's portion of land each, as proposed in my message +to congress, and repair yourself, with your papers, to the +seat of government.</p> + +<p>"To provide, on the accident of your death, against anarchy, +dispersion, and the consequent danger to your party, +and total failure of the enterprise, you are hereby authorized, +by any instrument signed and written in your own +hand, to name the person among them who shall succeed to +the command on your decease, and by like instruments to +change the nomination, from time to time, as further experience +of the characters accompanying you shall point out +superior fitness; and all the powers and authorities given to +yourself are, in the event of your death, transferred to, and +vested <span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-9" id="Pg_-9" title="Pg_-9">[xx]</a></span>in the successor so named, with further power to him +and his successors, in like manner to name each his successor, +who, on the death of his predecessor, shall be invested +with all the powers and authorities given to yourself. Given +under my hand at the city of Washington, this twentieth +day of June, 1803.</p></div> + + +<p class="sig_1">"<span class="smcap">Thomas Jefferson,</span></p> +<p class="sig_2">"<i>President of the United States of America</i>."<br /></p> + + +<p>While these things were going on here, the country of +Louisiana, lately ceded by Spain to France, had been the +subject of negotiation at Paris between us and this last +power; and had actually been transferred to us by treaties +executed at Paris on the thirtieth of April. This information, +received about the first day of July, increased infinitely +the interest we felt in the expedition, and lessened the +apprehensions of interruption from other powers. Every +thing in this quarter being now prepared, captain Lewis left +Washington on the fifth of July, 1803, and proceeded to +Pittsburg, where other articles had been ordered to be provided +for him. The men too were to be selected from the +military stations on the Ohio. Delays of preparation, difficulties +of navigation down the Ohio, and other untoward +obstructions, retarded his arrival at Cahokia until the season +was so far advanced as to render it prudent to suspend +his entering the Missouri before the ice should break up in +the succeeding spring.</p> + +<p>From this time his journal, now published, will give the +history of his journey to and from the Pacific ocean, until +his return to St. Louis on the twenty-third of September, +1806. Never did a similar event excite more joy through +the United States. The humblest of its citizens had taken +a lively interest in the issue of this journey, and looked forward +with impatience for the information it would furnish. +Their anxieties too for the safety of the corps had been kept +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-8" id="Pg_-8" title="Pg_-8">[xxi]</a></span>in a state of excitement by lugubrious rumours, circulated +from time to time on uncertain authorities, and uncontradicted +by letters, or other direct information, from the time +they had left the Mandan towns, on their ascent up the river +in April of the preceding year, 1805, until their actual +return to St. Louis.</p> + +<p>It was the middle of February, 1807, before captain Lewis, +with his companion captain Clarke, reached the city of +Washington, where congress was then in session. That +body granted to the two chiefs and their followers the donation +of lands which they had been encouraged to expect in +reward of their toil and dangers. Captain Lewis was +soon after appointed governor of Louisiana, and captain +Clarke a general of its militia, and agent of the United +States for Indian affairs in that department.</p> + +<p>A considerable time intervened before the governor's +arrival at St. Louis. He found the territory distracted by +feuds and contentions among the officers of the government, +and the people themselves divided by these into factions and +parties. He determined at once to take no side with either; +but to use every endeavour to conciliate and harmonize them. +The even-handed justice he administered to all soon established +a respect for his person and authority; and perseverance +and time wore down animosities, and reunited the +citizens again into one family.</p> + +<p>Governor Lewis had, from early life, been subject to hypochondriac +affections. It was a constitutional disposition +in all the nearer branches of the family of his name, and +was more immediately inherited by him from his father. +They had not, however, been so strong as to give uneasiness +to his family. While he lived with me in Washington I +observed at times sensible depressions of mind: but knowing +their constitutional source, I estimated their course by what +I had seen in the family. During his western expedition, +the constant exertion which that required of all the faculties +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-7" id="Pg_-7" title="Pg_-7">[xxii]</a></span>of body and mind, suspended these distressing affections; but +after his establishment at St. Louis in sedentary occupations, +they returned upon him with redoubled vigour, and +began seriously to alarm his friends. He was in a paroxysm +of one of these, when his affairs rendered it necessary for +him to go to Washington. He proceeded to the Chickasaw +Bluffs, where he arrived on the sixteenth of September, +1809, with a view of continuing his journey thence by water. +Mr. Neely, agent of the United States with the Chickasaw +Indians, arriving there two days after, found him extremely +indisposed, and betraying at times some symptoms of a derangement +of mind. The rumours of a war with England, +and apprehensions that he might lose the papers he was +bringing on, among which were the vouchers of his public +accounts, and the journals and papers of his western expedition, +induced him here to change his mind, and to take +his course by land through the Chickasaw country. Although +he appeared somewhat relieved, Mr. Neely kindly +determined to accompany and watch over him. Unfortunately, +at their encampment, after having passed the Tennessee +one day's journey, they lost two horses, which obliging +Mr. Neely to halt for their recovery, the governor proceeded, +under a promise to wait for him at the house of the +first white inhabitant on his road. He stopped at the house +of a Mr. Grinder, who not being at home, his wife, alarmed +at the symptoms of derangement she discovered, gave him +up the house and retired to rest herself in an out-house, the +governor's and Neely's servants lodging in another. About +three o'clock in the night he did the deed which plunged his +friends into affliction, and deprived his country of one of her +most valued citizens, whose valour and intelligence would +have been now employed in avenging the wrongs of his country, +and in emulating by land the splendid deeds which have +honoured her arms on the ocean. It lost too to the nation +the benefit of receiving from his own hand the narrative +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-6" id="Pg_-6" title="Pg_-6">[xxiii]</a></span>now offered them of his sufferings and successes, in endeavouring +to extend for them the boundaries of science, and +to present to their knowledge that vast and fertile country, +which their sons are destined to fill with arts, with science, +with freedom and happiness.</p> + +<p>To this melancholy close of the life of one, whom posterity +will declare not to have lived in vain, I have only to add, +that all the facts I have stated are either known to myself, +or communicated by his family or others, for whose truth I +have no hesitation to make myself responsible; and I conclude +with tendering you the assurances of my respect and +consideration.</p> + +<p class="sig_1">TH. JEFFERSON.<br /><br /></p> +<p>Mr. <span class="smcap">Paul Allen</span>, Philadelphia.<br /><br /></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + + +<!-- TABLE OF CONTENTS --> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-4" id="Pg_-4" title="Pg_-4">[xxv]</a></span></div> + +<h2><a name="contents" id="contents"></a>CONTENTS.<br /></h2> +<h2>VOL. I.<br /></h2> + +<div class="centered"><table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="ToC"> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER I.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood river. Description of + the town of St. Charles. Osage Woman river. Gasconade and Osage rivers + described. Character of the Osage Indians; curious traditionary account of + their origin. The party proceed and pass the Mine river. The two Charitons. + The Kanzas, Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshuabatona, Little Nemahar, + each of which are particularly described. They encamp at the mouth of the + river Platte. A particular description of the surrounding country. The various + creeks, bays, islands, prairies, &c. given in the course of the route.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_1">1</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER II.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + Some account of the Pawnee Indians. Council held with the Otto and + Missouri Indians. Council held with another party of the Ottoes. Death of + sergeant Floyd. The party encamp near the mouth of Whitestone river. + The character of the Missouri, with the rivers that enter it. The surrounding + country. The various islands, bays, creeks, &c. given in the course of + the expedition.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_32">32</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER III.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux Indians. Council held with + the Sioux. Character of that tribe, their manners, &c. A ridiculous instance + of their heroism. Ancient fortifications. Quieurre river described. Vast + herds of Buffaloe. Account of the Petit Chien or Little Dog. Narrow escape + of George Shannon. Description of White river. Surprising fleetness + of the antelope. Pass the river of the Sioux. Description of the Grand Le + Tour, or Great Bend. Encamp on the Teton river.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_52">52</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER IV.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + Council held with the Tetons. Their manners, dances, &c. Cheyenne + river described. Council held with the Ricara Indians. Their manners and + habits. Strange instance of Ricara idolatry. Another instance. Cannonball + river. Arrival among the Mandans. Character of the surrounding country, + and of the creeks, islands, &c.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_82">82</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER V.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + Council held with the Mandans. A prairie on fire, and a singular instance + of preservation. Peace established between the Mandans and Ricaras. The + party encamp for the winter. Indian mode of catching goats. Beautiful appearance + of northern lights. Friendly character of the Indians. Some account + of the Mandans. The Anahaways and the Minnetarees. The party<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-3" id="Pg_-3" title="Pg_-3">[xxvi]</a></span> + acquire the confidence of the Mandans by taking part in their controversy + with the Sioux. Religion of the Mandans, and their singular conception of + the term medicine. Their tradition. The sufferings of the party from the + severity of the season. Indian game of billiards described. Character of + the Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, + &c.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_118">118</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER VI.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + The party increase in the favour of the Mandans. Description of a + buffaloe dance. Medicine dance. The fortitude with which the Indians + bear the severity of the season. Distress of the party for want of + provisions. The great importance of the blacksmith in procuring it. + Depredations of the Sioux. The homage paid to the medicine stone. + Summary act of justice among the Minnetarees. The process by which + the Mandans and Ricaras make beads. Character of the Missouri, of + the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, &c.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_148">148</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER VII.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + Indian method of attacking the buffaloe on the ice. An enumeration + of the presents sent to the president of the United States. The + party are visited by a Ricara chief. They leave their encampment, + and proceed on their journey. Description of the Little Missouri. + Some account of the Assiniboins. Their mode of burying the dead. + Whiteearth river described. Great quantity of salt discovered on its + banks. Yellowstone river described. A particular account of the + country at the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri. + Description of the Missouri, the surrounding country, and of the + rivers, creeks, islands, &c.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_174">174</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER VIII.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + Unusual appearance of salt. The formidable character of the white + bear. Porcupine river described. Beautiful appearance of the + surrounding country. Immense quantities of game. Milk river + described. Extraordinary character of Bigdry river. An instance of + uncommon tenacity of life in a white bear. Narrow escape of one of + the party from that animal. A still more remarkable instance. + Muscleshell river described.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_199">199</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER IX.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + The party continue their route. Description of Judith river. Indian + mode of taking the buffaloe. Slaughter river described. Phenomena of + nature. Of walls on the banks of the Missouri. The party encamp on + the banks of the river to ascertain which of the streams constitute + the Missouri. Captain Lewis leaves the party to explore the northern + fork, and captain Clarke explores the southern. The surrounding + country described in the route of captain Lewis. Narrow escape of + one of his party.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_225">225</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER X.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + Return of captain Lewis. Account of captain Clarke's researches with + his exploring party. Perilous situation of one of his party. Tansy + river described. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-2" id="Pg_-2" title="Pg_-2">[xxvii]</a></span>The party still believing the southern fork the + Missouri, captain Lewis is resolves to ascend it. Mode of making a + place to deposit provisions, called cache. Captain Lewis explores + the southern fork. Falls of the Missouri discovered, which + ascertains the question. Romantic scenery of the surrounding + country. Narrow escape of captain Lewis. The main body under captain + Clarke approach within five miles of the falls, and prepare for + making a portage over the rapids.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_251">251</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XI.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + Description and romantic appearance of the Missouri at the junction + of the Medicine river. The difficulty of transporting the baggage at + the falls. The party employed in the construction of a boat of + skins. The embarrassments they had to encounter for the want of + proper materials. During the work the party much troubled by white + bears. Violent hail-storm, and providential escape of captain Clarke + and his party. Description of a remarkable fountain. Singular + explosion heard from the Black mountains. The boat found to be + insufficient, and the serious disappointment of the party. Captain + Clarke undertakes to repair the damage by building canoes, and + accomplishes the task.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_275">275</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XII.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + The party embark on board the canoes. Description of Smith's river. + Character of the country, &c. Dearborne's river described. + Captain Clarke precedes the party for the purpose of discovering the + Indians of the Rocky mountains. Magnificent rocky appearances on the + borders of the river denominated the Gates of the Rocky mountains. + Captain Clarke arrives at the three forks of the Missouri without + overtaking the Indians. The party arrive at the three forks, of + which a peculiar and interesting description is given.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_301">301</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XIII.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + The name of the Missouri changed, as the river now divides itself + into three forks, one of which is called after Jefferson, the other + Madison, and the other after Gallatin. Their general character. The + party ascend the Jefferson branch. Description of the river + Philosophy which enters into the Jefferson. Captain Lewis and a + small party go in advance in search of the Shoshonees. Description + of the country, &c. bordering on the river. Captain Lewis still + preceding the main party in quest of the Shoshonees. A singular + accident which prevented captain Clarke from following captain + Lewis's advice, and ascending the middle fork of the river. + Description of Philanthropy river, another stream running into the + Jefferson. Captain Lewis and a small party having been unsuccessful + in their first attempt, set off a second time in quest of the + Shoshonees.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_328">328</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XIV.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + Captain Lewis proceeds before the main body in search of the + Shoshonees; his ill success on the first interview. The party with + captain Lewis at length <span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_-1" id="Pg_-1" title="Pg_-1">[xxviii]</a></span>discover the source of the Missouri. Captain + Clarke with the main body still employed in ascending the Missouri + or Jefferson river. Captain Lewis's second interview with the + Shoshonees attended with success. The interesting ceremonies of his + first introduction to the natives, detailed at large. Their + hospitality. Their mode of hunting the antelope. The difficulties + encountered by captain Clarke and the main body in ascending the + river. The suspicions entertained of captain Lewis by the + Shoshonees, and his mode of allaying them. The ravenous appetites of + the savages illustrated by singular adventure. The Indians still + jealous, and the great pains taken by captain Lewis to preserve + their confidence. Captain Clarke arrives with the main body + exhausted by the difficulties they underwent.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_354">354</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XV.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + Affecting interview between the wife of Chaboneau and the chief of + the Shoshonees. Council held with that nation, and favourable + result. The extreme navigable point of the Missouri mentioned. + General character of the river and of the country through which it + passes. Captain Clarke in exploring the source of the Columbia falls + in company with another party of Shoshonees. The geographical + information acquired from one of that party. Their manner of + catching fish. The party reach Lewis river. The difficulties which + captain Clarke had to encounter in his route. Friendship and + hospitality of the Shoshonees. The party with captain Lewis employed + in making saddles, and preparing for the journey.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_381">381</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XVI.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + Contest between Drewyer and a Shoshonee. The fidelity and honour of + that tribe. The party set out on their journey. The conduct of + Cameahwait reproved, and himself reconciled. The easy parturition of + the Shoshonee women. History of this nation. Their terror of the + Pawkees. Their government and family economy in their treatment of + their women. Their complaints of Spanish treachery. Description of + their weapons of warfare. Their curious mode of making a shield. The + caparison of their horses. The dress of the men and of the women + particularly described. Their mode of acquiring new names.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_407">407</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align='center' colspan="2"><big>CHAPTER XVII.</big></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocel"> + The party, after procuring horses from the Shoshonees, proceed on + their journey through the mountains. The difficulties and dangers of + the route. A council held with another band of the Shoshonees, of + whom some account is given. They are reduced to the necessity of + killing their horses for food. Captain Clarke with a small party + precedes the main body in quest of food, and is hospitably received + by the Pierced-nose Indians. Arrival of the main body amongst this + tribe, with whom a council is held. They resolve to perform the + remainder of their journey in canoes. Sickness of the party. They + descend the Kooskooskee to its junction with Lewis river, after + passing several dangerous rapids. Short description of the manners + and dress of the Pierced-nose Indians.</td> +<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Pg_435">435</a></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td></tr> + +</table> +</div> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_1" id="Pg_1" title="Pg_1">[1]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + +<h2><a name="LEWIS_AND_CLARKES_EXPEDITION" id="LEWIS_AND_CLARKES_EXPEDITION"></a>LEWIS AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITION</h2> + +<h3>UP THE MISSOURI.</h3> + +<h3>CHAP. I.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood river—Description of the +town of St. Charles—Osage Woman river—Gasconade and Osage Rivers described—Character +of the Osage Indians—Curious traditionary account of +their Origin—The party proceed and pass the Mine river—The two Charitons—The +Kanzas, Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshnabatona, Little Nemahar, each +of which are particularly described—They encamp at the mouth of the river +Platte—A particular description of the surrounding country—The various +Creeks, Bays, Islands, Prairies, &c., given in the course of the route.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>On the acquisition of Louisiana, in the year 1803, the +attention of the government of the United States, was early +directed towards exploring and improving the new territory. +Accordingly in the summer of the same year, an expedition +was planned by the president for the purpose of +discovering the courses and sources of the Missouri, and the +most convenient water communication thence to the Pacific +ocean. His private secretary captain Meriwether Lewis, +and captain William Clarke, both officers of the army of +the United States, were associated in the command of this +enterprize. After receiving the requisite instructions, captain +Lewis left the seat of government, and being joined by +captain Clarke at Louisville, in Kentucky, proceeded to St. +Louis, where they arrived in the month of December. Their +<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'orriginal'.">original</ins> intention was to pass the winter at La Charrette, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_2" id="Pg_2" title="Pg_2">[2]</a></span>the highest settlement on the Missouri. But the Spanish +commandant of the province, not having received an official +account of its transfer to the United States, was obliged by +the general policy of his government, to prevent strangers +from passing through the Spanish territory. They therefore +encamped at the mouth of Wood river, on the eastern +side of the Mississippi, out of his jurisdiction, where they +passed the winter in disciplining the men, and making the +necessary preparations for setting out early in the Spring, +before which the cession was officially announced. The +party consisted of nine young men from Kentucky, fourteen +soldiers of the United States army who volunteered their +services, two French watermen—an interpreter and hunter—and +a black servant belonging to captain Clarke—All +these, except the last, were enlisted to serve as privates +during the expedition, and three sergeants appointed from +amongst them by the captains. In addition to these were +engaged a corporal and six soldiers, and nine watermen to +accompany the expedition as far as the Mandan nation, in order +to assist in carrying the stores, or repelling an attack +which was most to be apprehended between Wood river and +that tribe. The necessary stores were subdivided into seven +bales, and one box, containing a small portion of each article +in case of accident. They consisted of a great variety of +clothing, working utensils, locks, flints, powder, ball, and +articles of the greatest use. To these were added fourteen +bales and one box of Indian presents, distributed in the same +manner, and composed of richly laced coats and other articles +of dress, medals, flags, knives, and tomahawks for the +chiefs—ornaments of different kinds, particularly beads, +lookingglasses, handkerchiefs, paints, and generally such +articles as were deemed best calculated for the taste of the +Indians. The party was to embark on board of three boats: +the first was a keel boat fifty-five feet long, drawing three +feet water, carrying one large squaresail and twenty-two +oars, a deck of ten feet in the bow, and stern formed a forecastle +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_3" id="Pg_3" title="Pg_3">[3]</a></span>and cabin, while the middle was covered by lockers, +which might be raised so as to form a breast-work in case +of attack. This was accompanied by two perioques or open +boats, one of six and the other of seven oars. Two horses +were at the same time to be led along the banks of the river +for the purpose of bringing home game, or hunting in case +of scarcity.</p> + +<p>Of the proceedings of this expedition, the following is a +succinct and circumstantial narrative.</p> + +<p>All the preparations being completed, we left our encampment +on Monday, May 14th, 1804. This spot is at the +mouth of Wood river, a small stream which empties itself +into the Mississippi, opposite to the entrance of the Missouri. +It is situated in latitude 38° 55' 19-6/10" north, and +longitude from Greenwich, 89° 57' 45". On both sides of +the Mississippi the land for two or three miles is rich and +level, but gradually swells into a high pleasant country, +with less timber on the western than on the eastern side, +but all susceptible of cultivation. The point which separates +the two rivers on the north, extends for fifteen or +twenty miles, the greater part of which is an open level +plain, in which the people of the neighbourhood cultivate +what little grain they raise. Not being able to set sail +before four o'clock P.M., we did not make more than four +miles, and encamped on the first island opposite a small +creek called Cold Water.</p> + +<p>May 15. The rain, which had continued yesterday and +last night, ceased this morning. We then proceeded, and +after passing two small islands about ten miles further, stopped +for the night at Piper's landing, opposite another island. +The water is here very rapid and the banks falling in. We +found that our boat was too heavily laden in the stern, in +consequence of which she ran on logs three times to-day. +It became necessary to throw the greatest weight on the +bow of the boat, a precaution very necessary in ascending +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_4" id="Pg_4" title="Pg_4">[4]</a></span>both the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, in the beds of +which, there lie great quantities of concealed timber.</p> + +<p>The next morning we set sail at five o'clock. At the distance +of a few miles, we passed a remarkable large coal +hill on the north side, called by the French La Charbonniere, +and arrived at the town of St. Charles. Here we remained +a few days.</p> + +<p>St. Charles is a small town on the north bank of the +Missouri, about twenty-one miles from its confluence with +the Mississippi. It is situated in a narrow plain, sufficiently +high to protect it from the annual risings of the river in the +month of June, and at the foot of a range of small hills, +which have occasioned its being called Petite Cote, a name +by which it is more known to the French than by that of +St. Charles. One principal street, about a mile in length +and running parallel with the river, divides the town, which +is composed of nearly one hundred small wooden houses, besides +a chapel. The inhabitants, about four hundred and +fifty in number, are chiefly descendants from the French of +Canada; and, in their manners, they unite all the careless +gayety, and the amiable hospitality of the best times of +France: yet, like most of their countrymen in America, +they are but ill qualified for the rude life of a frontier; not +that they are without talent, for they possess much natural +genius and vivacity; nor that they are destitute of enterprize, +for their hunting excursions are long, laborious, and +hazardous: but their exertions are all desultory; their industry +is without system, and without perseverance. The +surrounding country, therefore, though rich, is not, in general, +well cultivated; the inhabitants chiefly subsisting by +hunting and trade with the Indians, and confine their culture +to gardening, in which they excel.</p> + +<p>Being joined by captain Lewis, who had been detained +by business at St. Louis, we again set sail on Monday, May +21st, in the afternoon, but were prevented by wind and rain +from going more than about three miles, when we encamped +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_5" id="Pg_5" title="Pg_5">[5]</a></span>on the upper point of an island, nearly opposite a creek +which falls in on the south side.</p> + +<p>On the 22d we made about eighteen miles, passing several +small farms on the bank of the river, a number of islands, +and a large creek on the south side, called Bonhomme, or +Goodman's river. A small number of emigrants from +the United States have settled on the sides of this creek, +which are very fertile. We also passed some high lands, +and encamped, on the north side, near a small creek. Here +we met with a camp of Kickapoo Indians who had left us at +St. Charles, with a promise of procuring us some provisions +by the time we overtook them. They now made us a present +of four deer, and we gave them in return two quarts of +whiskey. This tribe reside on the heads of the Kaskaskia +and Illinois river, on the other side of the Mississippi, but +occasionally hunt on the Missouri.</p> + +<p>May 23. Two miles from our camp of last night, we reached +a river emptying itself on the north side, called Osage +Woman river. It is about thirty yards wide, and has now a +settlement of thirty or forty families from the United States. +About a mile and a half beyond this is a large cave, on +the south side at the foot of cliffs nearby three hundred feet +high, overhanging the water, which becomes very swift +at this place. The cave is one hundred and twenty feet +wide, forty feet deep, and twenty high, it is known by the +name of the Tavern, among the traders who have written +their names on the rock, and painted some images which +command the homage of the Indians and French. About a +little further we passed a small creek called Tavern creek, +and encamped on the south side of the river, having gone +nine miles.</p> + +<p>Early the next morning we ascended a very difficult rapid, +called the Devil's Race Ground, where the current sets +for half a mile against some projecting rocks on the south +side. We were less fortunate in attempting a second place +of equal difficulty. Passing near the southern shore, the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_6" id="Pg_6" title="Pg_6">[6]</a></span>bank fell in so fast as to oblige us to cross the river instantly, +between the northern side and a sandbar which is constantly +moving and banking with the violence of the current. +The boat struck on it, and would have upset immediately, if +the men had not jumped into the water and held her, till the +sand washed from under her. We encamped on the south +side, having ascended ten miles, and the next day, May 25, +passed on the south side the mouth of Wood river, on the +north, two small creeks and several islands, and stopped for +the night at the entrance of a creek on the north side, called +by the French La Charrette, ten miles from our last encampment, +and a little above a small village of the same +name. It consists of seven small houses, and as many poor +families who have fixed themselves here for the convenience +of trade, and form the last establishment of whites on the +Missouri. It rained last night, yet we found this morning +that the river had fallen several inches.</p> + +<p>May 26. The wind being favourable we made eighteen +miles to-day. We passed in the morning several islands, the +largest of which is Buffaloe island, separated from the +southern side by a small channel which receives the waters +of Buffaloe creek. On the same side is Shepherd's creek, +a little beyond which we encamped on the northern side. +The next day we sailed along a large island called Otter +island, on the northern side, extending nearly ten miles in +length, narrow but high in its situation, and one of the most +fertile in the whole river. Between it and the northern +shore, three small creeks, one of which has the same name +with the island, empty themselves. On the southern shore +is a creek twenty yards wide, called Ash creek. In the +course of the day we met two canoes loaded with furs, +which had been two months on their route, from the Mahar +nation, residing more than seven hundred miles up the river—one +large raft from the Pawnees on the river Platte, +and three others from the Grand Osage river. At the distance +of fifteen miles we encamped on a willow island, at +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_7" id="Pg_7" title="Pg_7">[7]</a></span>the entrance of the river Gasconade. This river falls into +the Missouri from the south, one hundred miles from the +Mississippi. Its length is about one hundred and fifty miles +in a course generally northeast through a hilly country. +On its banks are a number of saltpetre caves, and it is believed +some mines of lead in the vicinity. Its width at the +mouth is one hundred and fifty-seven yards, and its depth +nineteen feet.</p> + +<p>Here we halted for the purpose of hunting and drying +our provisions, and making the necessary celestial observations. +This being completed, we set sail on the 29th at four +o'clock, and at four miles distance encamped on the south-side, +above a small creek, called Deer creek. The next day, +30th, we set out early, and at two miles distant reached a +large cave, on the north, called Montbrun's tavern, after a +French trader of that name, just above a creek called after +the same person. Beyond this is a large island, and at the +distance of four miles, Rush creek coming in from the +south, at eleven, Big-muddy river on the north, about fifty +yards wide; three miles further, is Little-muddy river on +the same side, opposite to which we encamped at the mouth +of Grindstone creek. The rain which began last night continued +through the day, accompanied with high wind and +some hail. The river has been rising fast for two days, and +the country around appears full of water. Along the sides +of the river to day we observe much timber, the cotton wood, +the sycamore, hickory, white walnut, some grapevines, and +rushes—the high west wind and rain compelled us to remain +all the next day, May 31. In the afternoon a boat came down +from the Grand Osage river, bringing a letter from a person +sent to the Osage nation on the Arkansaw river, which +mentioned that the letter announcing the cession of Louisiana +was committed to the flames—that the Indians would +not believe that the Americans were owners of that country, +and disregarded St. Louis and its supplies. The party was +occupied in hunting, in the course of which, they caught in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_8" id="Pg_8" title="Pg_8">[8]</a></span>the woods several very large rats. We set sail early the next +morning, June 1st, and at six miles distant passed Bear +creek, a stream of about twenty-five yards width; but the +wind being ahead and the current rapid, we were unable to +make more than thirteen miles to the mouth of the Osage +river; where we encamped and remained the following day, +for the purpose of making celestial observations. The Osage +river empties itself into the Missouri, at one hundred and +thirty-three miles distance from the mouth of the latter river. +Its general course is west and west southwest through +a rich and level country. At the junction the Missouri is +about eight hundred and seventy-five yards wide, and the +Osage three hundred and ninety-seven. The low point of +junction is in latitude 38° 31' 16", and at a short distance +from it is a high commanding position, whence we enjoyed +a delightful prospect of the country.</p> + +<p>The Osage river gives or owes its name to a nation inhabiting +its banks at a considerable distance from this place. +Their present name however, seems to have originated from +the French traders, for both among themselves and their +neighbours they are called the Wasbashas. They number +between twelve and thirteen hundred warriors, and consist of +three tribes: the Great Osages of about five hundred warriors, +living in a village on the south bank of the river—the +Little Osages, of nearly half that number, residing at the +distance of six miles from them—and the Arkansaw band, +a colony of Osages, of six hundred warriors, who left them +some years ago, under the command of a chief called the +Bigfoot, and settled on the Vermillion river, a branch of the +Arkansaw. In person the Osages are among the largest +and best formed Indians, and are said to possess fine military +capacities; but residing as they do in villages, and having +made considerable advance in agriculture, they seem +less addicted to war, than their northern neighbours, to +whom the use of rifles gives a great superiority. Among +the peculiarities of this people, there is nothing more remarkable +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_9" id="Pg_9" title="Pg_9">[9]</a></span>than the tradition relative to their origin. According +to universal belief, the founder of the nation was a +snail passing a quiet existence along the banks of the Osage, +till a high flood swept him down to the Missouri, and left him +exposed on the shore. The heat of the sun at length ripened +him into a man, but with the change of his nature, he +had not forgotten his native seats on the Osage, towards +which, he immediately bent his way. He was however +soon overtaken by hunger, and fatigue, when happily the +Great Spirit appeared, and giving him a bow and arrow, +showed him how to kill and cook deer, and cover himself +with the skin. He then proceeded to his original residence, +but as he approached the river, he was met by a beaver, who +inquired haughtily who he was, and by what authority he +came to disturb his possession. The Osage answered that +the river was his own, for he had once lived on its borders. +As they stood disputing, the daughter of the beaver came, +and having by her entreaties reconciled her father to this +young stranger, it was proposed that the Osage should +marry the young beaver, and share with her family the enjoyment +of the river. The Osage readily consented, and +from this happy union there soon came the village and the +nation of the Wasbasha, or Osages, who have ever since +preserved a pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining +from the chace of the beaver, because in killing that animal, +they killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years, +however, since the trade with the whites has rendered beaver +skins more valuable, the sanctity of these maternal relatives +has visibly reduced, and the poor animals have nearly +lost all the privileges of kindred.</p> + +<p>On the afternoon of June 3, we proceeded, and at three +miles distant, reached a creek called Cupboard creek, from +a rock of that appearance near its entrance. Two miles further +we encamped at Moreau creek, a stream of twenty +yards width, on the southern side. The next morning, we +passed at an early hour, Cedar island on the north, so called +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_10" id="Pg_10" title="Pg_10">[10]</a></span>from the abundance of the tree of that name; near which is +a small creek, named Nightingale creek, from a bird of +that species, who sang for us during the night. Beyond +Cedar island, are some others of a smaller extent, and +at seven miles distance a creek fifteen or twenty yards +wide, entering from the north, and known by the name of +Cedar creek. At seven and a half miles further, we passed +on the south side another creek, which we called Mast +creek, from the circumstance of our mast being broken by +running under a concealed tree; a little above is another +creek on the left, one mile beyond which we encamped on +the southern shore under high projecting cliffs. The French +had reported that lead ore was to be found in this place, but +on examining the hills, we could discern no appearance +of that mineral. Along the river on the south, is a low land +covered with rushes, and high nettles, and near the mouths +of the creeks, supplied with oak, ash, and walnut timber. +On the north the land is rich and well situated. We made +seventeen and a half miles this day. The river is falling +slowly. We continued our route the next morning early: a +small creek called Lead creek, on the south; another on the +north, known to the French by the name of Little Good +Woman's creek, and again Big Rock creek on the south +were the only streams we passed this morning. At eleven +o'clock we met a raft made of two canoes joined together, +in which two French traders were descending, from +eighty leagues up the river Kanzas, where they had wintered, +and caught great quantities of beaver, but had lost +much of their game by fires from the prairies. They +told us that the Kanzas nation is now hunting buffaloe in +the plains, having passed the last winter in this river. Two +miles further, we reached on the south Little Manitou +creek, which takes its name from a strange figure resembling +the bust of a man, with the horns of a stag, painted on +a projecting rock, which may represent some spirit or deity. +Near this is a sandbar extending several miles, which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_11" id="Pg_11" title="Pg_11">[11]</a></span>renders the navigation difficult, and a small creek called +Sand creek on the south, where we stopped for dinner, +and gathered wild cresses and tongue grass from the sandbar. +The rapidity of the currents added to our having broken +our mast, prevented our going more than twelve and a +half miles. The scouts and hunters whom we always kept +out, report that they have seen fresh tracks of Indians. The +next morning we left our camp, which was on the south +side, opposite to a large island in the middle of the river, +and at five miles reached a creek on the north side, of about +twenty yards wide, called Split Rock creek, from a fissure +in the point of a neighbouring rock. Three miles beyond +this, on the south is Saline river, it is about thirty yards +wide, and has its name from the number of salt licks, and +springs, which render its water brackish; the river is very +rapid and the banks falling in. After leaving Saline creek, +we passed one large island and several smaller ones, having +made fourteen miles. The water rose a foot during the last +night.</p> + +<p>The next day, June 7, we passed at four and a half miles +Big Manitou creek, near which is a limestone rock inlaid +with flint of various colours, and embellished, or at least +covered with uncouth paintings of animals and inscriptions. +We landed to examine it, but found the place occupied by a +nest of rattlesnakes, of which we killed three. We also +examined some licks and springs of salt water, two or three +miles up this creek. We then proceeded by some small +willow islands, and encamped at the mouth of Good Woman +river on the north. It is about thirty-five yards wide, and +said to be navigable for boats several leagues. The hunters, +who had hitherto given us only deer, brought in this +evening three bears, and had seen some indication of buffaloe. +We had come fourteen miles.</p> + +<p>June 8, we saw several small willow islands, and a +creek on the south, near which are a number of deerlicks; +at nine miles distance we came to Mine river. This river, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_12" id="Pg_12" title="Pg_12">[12]</a></span>which falls into the Missouri from the south, is said to be +navigable for boats eighty or ninety miles, and is about seventy +yards wide at its mouth. It forks about five or six leagues +from the Missouri, and at the point of junction are some very +rich salt springs; the west branch in particular, is so much +impregnated, that, for twenty miles, the water is not palatable: +several branches of the Manitou and Good Woman are +equally tinctured. The French report also, that lead ore has +been found on different parts of the river. We made several +excursions near the river through the low rich country +on its banks, and after dinner went on to the island of Mills, +where we encamped. We met with a party of three hunters +from the Sioux river; they had been out for twelve +months, and collected about nine hundred dollars worth of +peltries and furs. We ascended this river twelve miles.</p> + +<p>On the 9th, we set out early, and reached a cliff of rocks, +called the Arrow Rock, near to which is a prairie called the +Prairies of Arrows, and Arrow creek, a small stream about +eight yards wide, whose source is in the adjoining prairies +on the south. At this cliff the Missouri is confined within +a bed of two hundred yards; and about four miles to the +south east is a large lick and salt spring of great strength. +About three miles further is Blackbird creek on the north +side, opposite to which, is an island and a prairie inclosing +a small lake. Five miles beyond this we encamped on the +south side, after making, in the course of the day, thirteen +miles. The land on the north is a high rich plain. On the +south it is also even, of a good quality, and rising from fifty +to one hundred feet.</p> + +<p>The next morning, 10th, we passed Deer creek, and at +the distance of five miles, the two rivers called by the +French the two Charatons, a corruption of Thieraton, the +first of which is thirty, the second seventy yards wide, and +enter the Missouri together. They are both navigable for +boats: the country through which they pass is broken, rich, +and thickly covered with timber. The Ayauway nation, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_13" id="Pg_13" title="Pg_13">[13]</a></span>consisting of three hundred men, have a village near its head-waters +on the river De Moines. Farther on we passed a +large island called <i>Chicot</i> or Stump Island, and encamped +on the south, after making ten miles. A head wind forced +us to remain there all the next day, during which we dried +the meat we had killed, and examined the surrounding +country, which consists of good land, well watered, and supplied +with timber: the prairies also differ from those eastward +of the Mississippi, inasmuch as the latter are generally +without any covering except grass, whilst the former +abound with hazel, grapes and other fruits, among which is +the Osage plum of a superior size and quality. On the +morning of the 12th, we passed through difficult places in +the river, and reached Plum creek on the south side. At +one o'clock, we met two rafts loaded, the one with furs, the +other with the tallow of buffaloe; they were from the Sioux +nation, and on their way to St. Louis; but we were fortunate +enough to engage one of them, a Mr. Durion, who had +lived with that nation more than twenty years, and was +high in their confidence, to accompany us thither. We +made nine miles. On the 13th, we passed at between four +and five miles, a bend of the river, and two creeks on the +north, called the Round Bend creeks. Between these two +creeks is the prairie, in which once stood the ancient village +of the Missouris. Of this village there remains no +vestige, nor is there any thing to recall this great and numerous +nation, except a feeble remnant of about thirty families. +They were driven from their original seats by the +invasions of the Sauks and other Indians from the Mississippi, +who destroyed at this village two hundred of them in +one contest, and sought refuge near the Little Osage, on +the other side of the river. The encroachment of the same +enemies forced, about thirty years since, both these nations +from the banks of the Missouri. A few retired with the Osage, +and the remainder found an asylum on the river Platte, +among the Ottoes, who are themselves declining. Opposite +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_14" id="Pg_14" title="Pg_14">[14]</a></span>the plain there was an island and a French fort, but +there is now no appearance of either, the successive inundations +having probably washed them away, as the willow +island which is in the situation described by Du Pratz, is +small and of recent formation. Five miles from this place +is the mouth of Grand River, where we encamped. This +river follows a course nearly south, or south east, and is +between eighty and a hundred yards wide where it enters +the Missouri, near a delightful and rich plain. A racoon, +a bear, and some deer were obtained to day. We proceeded +at six o'clock the next morning. The current was so +rapid and the banks on the north falling in so constantly, +that we were obliged to approach the sandbars on the +south. These were moving continually, and formed the +worst passage we had seen, and which we surmounted with +much difficulty. We met a trading raft from the Pawnee +nation on the river Platte, and attempted unsuccessfully to +engage one of their party to return with us. At the distance +of eight miles, we came to some high cliffs, called the Snake +bluffs, from the number of that animal in the neighbourhood, +and immediately above these bluffs, Snake creek, about +eighteen yards wide, on which we encamped. One of our +hunters, a half Indian, brought us an account of his having +to day passed a small lake, near which a number of deer +were feeding, and in the pond he heard a snake making a +guttural noise like a turkey. He fired his gun, but the +noise became louder. He adds, that he has heard the Indians +mention this species of snake, and this story is confirmed +by a Frenchman of our party. All the next day, +the river being very high, the sandbars were so rolling and +numerous, and the current so strong, that we were unable +to stem it even with oars added to our sails; this obliged us +to go nearer the banks, which were falling in, so that we +could not make, though the boat was occasionally towed, +more than fourteen miles. We passed several islands and +one creek on the south side, and encamped on the north opposite +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_15" id="Pg_15" title="Pg_15">[15]</a></span>a beautiful plain, which extends as far back as the +Osage river, and some miles up the Missouri. In front of +our encampment are the remains of an old village of the +Little Osage, situated at some distance from the river, and +at the foot of a small hill. About three miles above them, +in view of our camp is the situation of the old village of the +Missouris after they fled from the Sauks. The inroads of +the same tribe compelled the Little Osage to retire from +the Missouri a few years ago, and establish themselves near +the Great Osages. The river, which is here about one mile +wide, had risen in the morning, but fell towards evening. +Early this morning, June 16th, we joined the camp of our +hunters, who had provided two deer and two bear, and then +passing an island and a prairie on the north covered with a +species of timothy, made our way through bad sandbars and +a swift current, to an encampment for the evening, on the +north side, at ten miles distance. The timber which we +examined to day was not sufficiently strong for oars; the +musquitoes and ticks are exceedingly troublesome. On the +17th, we set out early and having come to a convenient +place at one mile distance, for procuring timber and making +oars, we occupied ourselves in that way on this and the following +day. The country on the north of the river is rich +and covered with timber; among which we procured the +ash for oars. At two miles it changes into extensive prairies, +and at seven or eight miles distance becomes higher and +waving. The prairie and high lands on the south commence +more immediately on the river; the whole is well watered +and provided with game, such as deer, elk, and bear. +The hunters brought in a fat horse which was probably +lost by some war party—this being the crossing place for +the Sauks, Ayauways, and Sioux, in their excursions against +the Osage.</p> + +<p>June 19, the oars being finished, we proceeded under +a gentle breeze by two large and some smaller islands. The +sandbars are numerous and so bad, that at one place we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_16" id="Pg_16" title="Pg_16">[16]</a></span>were forced to clear away the driftwood in order to pass: +the water too was so rapid that we were under the necessity +of towing the boat for half a mile round a point of rocks on +the south side. We passed two creeks, one called Tiger +creek on the north, twenty-five yards wide at the extremity +of a large island called Panther Island; the other Tabo +creek on the south, fifteen yards wide. Along the shores +are gooseberries and raspberries in great abundance. At +the distance of seventeen and a half miles we encamped on +the south, near a lake about two miles from the river and +several in circumference; and much frequented by deer and +all kinds of fowls. On the north the land is higher and better +calculated for farms than that on the south, which ascends +more gradually, but is still rich and pleasant. The +musquitoes and other animals are so troublesome that musquitoe +biers or nets were distributed to the party. The +next morning we passed a large island, opposite to which +on the north is a large and beautiful prairie, called Sauk +prairie, the land being fine and well timbered on both sides +the river. Pelicans were seen to day. We made six and +three quarter miles, and encamped at the lower point of a +small island, along the north side of which we proceeded +the next day, June 21st, but not without danger in consequence +of the sands and the rapidity of the water which +rose three inches last night. Behind another island come +in from the south two creeks, called Eau, Beau, or Clear +Water creeks; on the north is a very remarkable bend, +where the high lands approach the river, and form an acute +angle at the head of a large island produced by a narrow +channel through the point of the bend. We passed several +other islands, and encamped at seven and a half miles on +the south.</p> + +<p>22d. The river rose during the night four inches. The +water is very rapid and crowded with concealed timber. +We passed two large islands and an extensive prairie on the +south, beginning with a rich low land, and rising to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_17" id="Pg_17" title="Pg_17">[17]</a></span>distance of seventy or eighty feet of rolling clear country. +The thermometer at three o'clock P.M. was at 87°. After +coming ten and a half miles we encamped on the south, opposite +a large creek called Fire Prairie river.</p> + +<p>23d. The wind was against us this morning, and became +so violent that we made only three and a half miles, and +were obliged to lie to during the day at a small island. This +is separated from the northern side by a narrow channel +which cannot be passed by boats, being choaked by trees +and drifted wood. Directly opposite on the south, is a high +commanding position, more than seventy feet above high +water mark, and overlooking the river which is here of but +little width; this spot has many advantages for a fort, and +trading house with the Indians.<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> The river fell eight inches +last night.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> The United States built in September, 1808, a factory and +fort at this spot, which is very convenient for trading with the +Osages, Ayauways and Kanzas.</p></div> + +<p>The next day, 24th, we passed at eight miles distance, +Hay Cabin creek coming in from the south, about twenty +yards wide, and so called from camps of straw built on it; +to the north are some rocks projecting into the river, and a +little beyond them a creek on the same side, called Charaton +Scarty; that is, Charaton like the Otter. We halted, +after making eleven and a half miles, the country on both +sides being fine and interspersed with prairies, in which we +now see numerous herds of deer, pasturing in the plains or +feeding on the young willows of the river.</p> + +<p>25th. A thick fog detained us till eight o'clock, when we +set sail, and at three miles reached a bank of stone coal on +the north, which appeared to be very abundant: just below +it is a creek called after the bank La Charbonniere. Four +miles further, and on the southern side, comes in a small +creek, called La Benite. The prairies here approach the +river and contain many fruits, such as plums, raspberries, +wild apples, and nearer the river vast quantities of mulberries. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_18" id="Pg_18" title="Pg_18">[18]</a></span>Our encampment was at thirteen miles distance on +an island to the north, opposite some hills higher than usual, +and almost one hundred and sixty or one hundred and eighty +feet. 26th. At one mile we passed at the end of a small +island, Blue Water creek, which is about thirty yards wide +at its entrance from the south.<a name="FNanchor_A_2" id="FNanchor_A_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_2" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> Here the Missouri is confined +within a narrow bed, and the current still more so by +counter currents or whirls on one side and a high bank on +the other. We passed a small island and a sandbar, where +our tow rope broke twice, and we rowed round with great +exertions. We saw a number of parroquets, and killed +some deer; after nine and three quarter miles we encamped +at the upper point of the mouth of the river Kanzas: here +we remained two days, during which we made the necessary +observations, recruited the party, and repaired the boat. +The river Kanzas takes its rise in the plains between the +Arkansaw and Platte rivers, and pursues a course generally +east till its junction with the Missouri which is in latitude +38° 31' 13"; here it is three hundred and forty and a quarter +yards wide, though it is wider a short distance above the +mouth. The Missouri itself is about five hundred yards in +width; the point of union is low and subject to inundations +for two hundred and fifty yards, it then rises a little above +high water mark, and continues so as far back as the hills. +On the south of the Kanzas the hills or highlands come +within one mile and a half of the river; on the north of the +Missouri they do not approach nearer than several miles; +but on all sides the country is fine. The comparative specific +gravities of the two rivers is, for the Missouri seventy-eight, +the Kanzas seventy-two degrees; the waters of the latter +have a very disagreeable taste, the former has risen during +yesterday and to day about two feet. On the banks of +the Kanzas reside the Indians of the same name, consisting +of two villages, one at about twenty, the other forty leagues +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_19" id="Pg_19" title="Pg_19">[19]</a></span>from its mouth, and amounting to about three hundred men. +They once lived twenty-four leagues higher than the Kanzas, +on the south bank of the Missouri, and were then more +numerous, but they have been reduced and banished by the +Sauks and Ayauways, who being better supplied with arms +have an advantage over the Kanzas, though the latter are +not less fierce or warlike than themselves. This nation is +now hunting in the plains for the buffaloe which our hunters +have seen for the first time.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_2" id="Footnote_A_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_2"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> A few miles up the Blue Water Creek are quarries of +plaster of paris, since worked and brought down to St. Louis.</p></div> + +<p>On the 29th, we set out late in the afternoon, and having +passed a sandbar, near which the boat was almost +lost, and a large island on the north, we encamped at seven +and a quarter miles on the same side in the low lands, +where the rushes are so thick that it is troublesome to walk +through them. Early the next morning, 30th, we reached, at +five miles distance, the mouth of a river coming in from the +north, and called by the French, Petite Riviere Platte, or +Little Shallow river; it is about sixty yards wide at its +mouth. A few of the party who ascended informed us, that +the lands on both sides are good, and that there are several +falls well calculated for mills; the wind was from the south +west, and the weather oppressively warm, the thermometer +standing at 96° above 0 at three o'clock P.M. One mile +beyond this is a small creek on the south, at five miles from +which we encamped on the same side, opposite the lower +point of an island called Diamond island. The land on the +north between the Little Shallow river, and the Missouri is +not good and subject to overflow—on the south it is higher +and better timbered.</p> + +<p>July 1st. We proceeded along the north side of Diamond +island, where a small creek called Biscuit creek empties itself. +One and a half miles above the island is a large sandbar +in the middle of the river, beyond which we stopped to +refresh the men, who suffered very much from the heat. +Here we observed great quantities of grapes and raspberries. +Between one and two miles farther are three islands +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_20" id="Pg_20" title="Pg_20">[20]</a></span>a creek on the south known by the French name of Remore. +The main current which is now on the south side of +the largest of the three islands, ran three years, as we were +told on the north, and there was then no appearance of the +two smaller islands. At the distance of four and a half +miles we reached the lower point of a cluster of small islands, +two large and two small, called Isles des Pares or +Field Islands. Paccaun trees were this day seen, and large +quantities of deer and turkies on the banks. We had advanced +twelve miles.</p> + +<p>July 2d. We left our encampment, opposite to which is +a high and beautiful prairie on the southern side, and passed +up the south of the islands, which are high meadows, +and a creek on the north called Pare creek. Here for half +an hour the river became covered with drift wood, which +rendered the navigation dangerous, and was probably caused +by the giving way of some sandbar, which had detained the +wood. After making five miles we passed a stream on the +south called Turky creek, near a sandbar, where we could +scarcely stem the current with twenty oars, and all the poles +we had. On the north at about two miles further is a large +island called by the Indians, Wau-car-da-war-card-da, or the +Bear Medicine island. Here we landed and replaced our +mast, which had been broken three days ago, by running +against a tree, overhanging the river. Thence we proceeded, +and after night stopped on the north side, above the +island, having come eleven and a half miles. Opposite our +camp is a valley, in which was situated an old village of the +Kanzas, between two high points of land, and on the bank of +the river. About a mile in the rear of the village was a +small fort, built by the French on an elevation. There are +now no traces of the village, but the situation of the fort +may be recognized by some remains of chimnies, and the +general outline of the fortification, as well as by the fine +spring which supplied it with water. The party, who were +stationed here, were probably cut off by the Indians, as there +are no accounts of them.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_21" id="Pg_21" title="Pg_21">[21]</a></span>July 3d. A gentle breeze from the south carried us eleven +and a quarter miles this day, past two islands, one a small +willow island, the other large, and called by the French Isle +des Vaches, or Cow island. At the head of this island, on the +northern shore, is a large pond containing beaver, and fowls +of different kinds. After passing a bad sandbar, we stopped +on the south side at an old trading house, which is now deserted, +and half a mile beyond it encamped on the south. +The land is fine along the rivers, and some distance back. +We observed the black walnut and oak, among the timber; +and the honey-suckle and the buck's-eye, with the nuts on +them.</p> + +<p>The morning of the 4th July was announced by the discharge +of our gun. At one mile we reached the mouth of a +bayeau or creek, coming from a large lake on the north side, +which appears as if it had once been the bed of the river, to +which it runs parallel for several miles. The water of it +is clear and supplied by a small creek and several springs, +and the number of goslins which we saw on it, induced us to +call it the Gosling lake. It is about three quarters of a +mile wide, and seven or eight miles long. One of our men +was bitten by a snake, but a poultice of bark and gunpowder +was sufficient to cure the wound. At ten and a quarter +miles we reached a creek on the south about twelve yards +wide and coming from an extensive prairie, which approached +the borders of the river. To this creek which had no +name, we gave that of Fourth of July creek; above it is a +high mound, where three Indian paths centre, and from which +is a very extensive prospect. After fifteen miles sail we +came to on the north a little above a creek on the southern +side, about thirty yards wide, which we called Independence +creek, in honour of the day, which we could celebrate only +by an evening gun, and an additional gill of whiskey to the +men.</p> + +<p>The next day, 5th, we crossed over to the south and came +along the bank of an extensive and beautiful prairie, interspersed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_22" id="Pg_22" title="Pg_22">[22]</a></span>with copses of timber, and watered by Independence +creek. On this bank formerly stood the second village of the +Kanzas; from the remains it must have been once a large +town. We passed several bad sandbars, and a small creek +to the south, which we called Yellow Ochre creek, from a +bank of that mineral a little above it. The river continues +to fall. On the shores are great quantities of summer and +fall grapes, berries and wild roses. Deer is not so abundant +as usual, but there are numerous tracks of elk around us. +We encamped at ten miles distance on the south side under +a high bank, opposite to which was a low land covered with +tall rushes, and some timber.</p> + +<p>July 6. We set sail, and at one mile passed a sandbar, +three miles further an island, a prairie to the north, at the +distance of four miles called Reevey's prairie, after a man +who was killed there; at which place the river is confined +to a very narrow channel, and by a sandbar from the south. +Four miles beyond is another sandbar terminated by a small +willow island, and forming a very considerable bend in the +river towards the north. The sand of the bar is light, intermixed +with small pebbles and some pit coal. The river falls +slowly, and, owing either to the muddiness of its water, or +the extreme heat of the weather, the men perspire profusely. +We encamped on the south having made twelve miles. +The bird called whip-poor-will sat on the boat for some time.</p> + +<p>In the morning, July 7th, the rapidity of the water obliged +us to draw the boat along with ropes. At six and three +quarter miles, we came to a sandbar, at a point opposite a +fine rich prairie on the north, called St. Michael's. The prairies +of this neighbourhood have the appearance of distinct +farms, divided by narrow strips of woodland, which follow +the borders of the small runs leading to the river. Above this, +about a mile, is a cliff of yellow clay on the north. At four +o'clock we passed a narrow part of the channel, where the +water is confined within a bed of two hundred yards wide, +the current running directly against the southern bank with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_23" id="Pg_23" title="Pg_23">[23]</a></span>no sand on the north to confine it or break its force. We +made fourteen miles, and halted on the north, after which we +had a violent gust about seven o'clock. One of the hunters +saw in a pond to the north which we passed yesterday a number +of young swans. We saw a large rat, and killed a wolf. +Another of our men had a stroke of the sun; he was bled, +and took a preparation of nitre which relieved him considerably.</p> + +<p>July 8. We set out early, and soon passed a small creek +on the north, which we called Ordway's creek, from our +sergeant of that name who had been sent on shore with the +horses, and went up it. On the same side are three small +islands, one of which is the Little Nodawa, and a large island +called the Great <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'Nowada'">Nodawa</ins> extending more than five miles, +and containing seven or eight thousand acres of high good +land, rarely overflowed, and one of the largest islands of the +Missouri. It is separated from the northern shore by a small +channel of from forty-five to eighty yards wide, up which we +passed, and found near the western extremity of the island +the mouth of the river Nodawa. This river persues nearly +a southern course, is navigable for boats to some distance, +and about seventy yards wide above the mouth, though not +so wide immediately there, as the mud from the Missouri +contracts its channel. At twelve and a quarter miles, we +encamped on the north side, near the head of Nodawa island, +and opposite a smaller one in the middle of the river. Five +of the men were this day sick with violent headache. The +river continues to fall.</p> + +<p>July 9th. We passed the island opposite to which we last +night encamped, and saw near the head of it a creek falling +in from a pond on the north, to which we gave the name of +Pike pond, from the numbers of that animal which some of +our party saw from the shore. The wind changed at eight +from N.E. to S.W. and brought rain. At six miles we passed +the mouth of Monter's creek on the south, and two miles +above a few cabins, where one of our party had encamped +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_24" id="Pg_24" title="Pg_24">[24]</a></span>with some Frenchmen about two years ago. Further on we +passed an island on the north, opposite some cliffs on the +south side, near which Loup or Wolf river falls into the Missouri. +This river is about sixty yards wide, it heads near +the same sources as the Kanzas, and is navigable for boats, +at some distance up. At fourteen miles we encamped on the +south side.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 10th. We proceeded on by a prairie on the upper +side of Wolf river, and at four miles passed a creek fifteen +yards wide on the south, called Pape's creek after a Spaniard +of that name, who killed himself there. At six miles we dined +on an island called by the French Isle de Salomon, or +Solomon's island, opposite to which on the south is a beautiful +plain covered with grass, intermixed with wild rye and +a kind of wild potatoe. After making ten miles we stopped +for the night on the northern side, opposite a cliff of yellow +clay. The river has neither risen nor fallen to day. On the +north the low land is very extensive, and covered with vines; +on the south, the hills approach nearer the river, and back +of them commence the plains. There are a great many goslins +along the banks.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 11th. After three miles sailing we came to a +willow island on the north side, behind which enters a creek +called by the Indians Tarkio. Above this creek on the north +the low lands are subject to overflow, and further back the +undergrowth of vines particularly, is so abundant that they +can scarcely be passed. Three miles from the Tarkio we +encamped on a large sand island on the north, immediately +opposite the river Nemahaw.</p> + +<p>Thursday 12th. We remained here to day for the purpose +of refreshing the party, and making lunar observations. +The Nemahaw empties itself into the Missouri from +the south, and is eighty yards wide at the confluence, which +is in lat. 39° 55' 56". Capt. Clarke ascended it in the perioque +about two miles to the mouth of a small creek on the lower +side. On going ashore he found in the level plain several +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_25" id="Pg_25" title="Pg_25">[25]</a></span>artificial mounds or graves, and on the adjoining hills others +of a larger size. This appearance indicates sufficiently the +former population of this country; the mounds being certainly +intended as tombs; the Indians of the Missouri still preserving +the custom of interring the dead on high ground. +From the top of the highest mound a delightful prospect +presented itself—the level and extensive meadows watered +by the Nemahaw, and enlivened by the few trees and shrubs +skirting the borders of the river and its tributary streams—the +lowland of the Missouri covered with undulating grass, +nearly five feet high, gradually rising into a second plain, +where rich weeds and flowers are interspersed with copses +of the Osage plum; further back are seen small groves of +trees; an abundance of grapes; the wild cherry of the Missouri, +resembling our own, but larger, and growing on a small +bush; and the chokecherry, which we observed for the first +time. Some of the grapes gathered to-day are nearly ripe. +On the south of the Nemahaw, and about a quarter of a mile +from its mouth, is a cliff of freestone, in which are various +inscriptions and marks made by the Indians. The sand +island where we are encamped, is covered with the two species +of willow, broad and narrow leaf.</p> + +<p>July 13th. We proceeded at sunrise with a fair wind +from the south, and at two miles, passed the mouth of a small +river on the north, called Big Tarkio. A channel from the +bed of the Missouri once ran into this river, and formed an +island called St. Joseph's, but the channel is now filled up, +and the island is added to the northern shore. Further on +to the south, is situated an extensive plain, covered with a +grass resembling timothy in its general appearance, except +the seed which is like flaxseed, and also a number of grapevines. +At twelve miles, we passed an island on the north, +above which is a large sandbar covered with willows: and +at twenty and a half miles, stopped on a large sandbar, in the +middle of the river opposite a high handsome prairie, which +extends to the hills four or five miles distant, though near +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_26" id="Pg_26" title="Pg_26">[26]</a></span>the bank the land is low, and subject to be overflowed. This +day was exceedingly fine and pleasant, a storm of wind and +rain from north-northeast, last night, having cooled the air.</p> + +<p>July 14. We had some hard showers of rain before seven +o'clock, when we set out. We had just reached the end of the +sand island, and seen the opposite banks falling in, and so +lined with timber that we could not approach it without +danger, when a sudden squall, from the northeast, struck +the boat on the starboard quarter, and would have certainly +dashed her to pieces on the sand island, if the party had +not leaped into the river, and with the aid of the anchor and +cable kept her off: the waves dashing over her for the space +of forty minutes; after which, the river became almost +instantaneously calm and smooth. The two periogues +were ahead, in a situation nearly similar, but fortunately +no damage was done to the boats or the loading. The +wind having shifted to the southeast, we came at the distance +of two miles, to an inland on the north, where we dined. +One mile above, on the same side of the river, is a small factory, +where a merchant of St. Louis traded with the Ottoes +and Pawnees two years ago. Near this is an extensive lowland, +part of which is overflowed occasionally, the rest is +rich and well timbered. The wind again changed to northwest +by north. At seven and a half miles, we reached +lower point of a large island, on the north side. A small +distance above this point, is a river, called by the Maha Indians, +Nishnahbatona. This is a considerable creek, nearly +as large as the Mine river, and runs parallel to the Missouri +the greater part of its course, being fifty yards wide +at the mouth. In the prairies or glades, we saw wild-timothy, +lambsquarter, cuckleberries, and on the edges of the +river, summer-grapes, plums, and gooseberries. We also +saw to-day, for the first time, some elk, at which some of the +party shot, but at too great a distance. We encamped on +the north side of the island, a little above Nishnahbatona, +having made nine miles. The river fell a little.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_27" id="Pg_27" title="Pg_27">[27]</a></span>July 15. A thick fog prevented our leaving the encampment +before seven. At about four miles, we reached the extremity +of the large island, and crossing to the south, at the +distance of seven miles, arrived at the Little Nemaha, a small +river from the south, forty yards wide a little above its mouth, +but contracting, as do almost all the waters emptying into the +Missouri, at its confluence. At nine and three quarter miles, +we encamped on a woody point, on the south. Along the +southern bank, is a rich lowland covered with peavine, and +rich weeds, and watered by small streams rising in the adjoining +prairies. They too, are rich, and though with abundance +of grass, have no timber except what grows near the +water; interspersed through both are grapevines, plums +of two kinds, two species of wild-cherries, hazlenuts, and +gooseberries. On the south there is one unbroken plain; on +the north the river is skirted with some timber, behind which +the plain extends four or five miles to the hills, which seem +to have little wood.</p> + +<p>July 16. We continued our route between a large island +opposite to our last night's encampment, and an extensive +prairie on the south. About six miles, we came to another +large island, called Fairsun island, on the same side; above +which is a spot, where about twenty acres of the hill have +fallen into the river. Near this, is a cliff of sandstone for +two miles, which is much frequented by birds. At this place +the river is about one mile wide, but not deep; as the timber, +or sawyers, may be seen, scattered across the whole of +its bottom. At twenty miles distance, we saw on the south, +an island called by the French, l'Isle Chance, or Bald island, +opposite to a large prairie, which we called Baldpated +prairie, from a ridge of naked hills which bound it, running +parallel with the river as far as we could see, and from +three to six miles distance. To the south the hills touch the +river. We encamped a quarter of a mile beyond this, in a +point of woods on the north side. The river continues to +fall.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_28" id="Pg_28" title="Pg_28">[28]</a></span>Tuesday, July 17. We remained here this day, in order +to make observations and correct the chronometer, which +ran down on Sunday. The latitude we found to be 40° 27' +5"4/10. The observation of the time proved our chronometer +too slow, by 6' 51"6/10. The highlands bear from our camp, +north 25° west, up the river. Captain Lewis rode up the +country, and saw the Nishnahbatona, about ten or twelve miles +from its mouth, at a place not more than three hundred +yards from the Missouri, and a little above our camp. +It then passes near the foot of the Baldhills, and is at least +six feet below the level of the Missouri. On its banks +are the oak, walnut, and mulberry. The common current +of the Missouri, taken with the log, is 50 fathoms in 40", at +some places, and even 20".</p> + +<p>Wednesday, July 18. The morning was fair, and a gentle +wind from southeast by south, carried us along between the +prairie on the north, and Bald island to the south: opposite +the middle of which, the Nishnahbatona approaches the +nearest to the Missouri. The current here ran fifty fathoms +in 41". At thirteen and a half miles, we reached an island +on the north, near to which the banks overflow; while on +the south, the hills project over the river and form high +cliffs. At one point a part of the cliff, nearly three quarters +of a mile in length, and about two hundred feet in height, has +fallen into the river. It is composed chiefly of sandstone +intermixed with an iron ore of bad quality; near the bottom +is a soft slatestone with pebbles. We passed several bad +sandbars in the course of the day, and made eighteen miles, +and encamped on the south, opposite to the lower point of +the Oven islands. The country around is generally divided +into prairies, with little timber, except on low points, +islands, and near creeks, and that consisting of cottonwood, +mulberry, elm, and sycamore. The river falls fast. An Indian +dog came to the bank; he appeared to have been lost +and was nearly starved: we gave him some food, but he +would not follow us.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_29" id="Pg_29" title="Pg_29">[29]</a></span>Thursday, July 19. The Oven islands are small, and two +in number; one near the south shore, the other in the middle +of the river. Opposite to them is the prairie, called +Terrien's Oven, from a trader of that name. At four and a +half miles, we reached some high cliffs of a yellow earth, +on the south, near which are two beautiful runs of water, +rising in the adjacent prairies, and one of them with a deerlick, +about two hundred yards from its mouth. In this +neighbourhood we observed some iron ore in the bank. At two +and a half miles above the runs, a large portion of the hill, +for nearly three quarters of a mile, has fallen into the river. +We encamped on the western extremity of an island, +in the middle of the river, having made ten and three quarter +miles. The river falls a little. The sandbars which +we passed to-day, are more numerous, and the rolling sands +more frequent and dangerous, than any we have seen; these +obstacles increasing as we approach the river Platte. The +Missouri here is wider also than below, where the timber +on the banks resists the current; while here the prairies +which approach, are more easily washed and undermined. +The hunters have brought for the last few days, no quadruped, +but deer: great quantities of young geese are seen to-day: +one of them brought calamus, which he had gathered +opposite our encampment, and a large quantity of sweet-flag.</p> + +<p>Friday, July 20. There was a heavy dew last night, and +this morning was foggy and cool. We passed at about three +miles distance, a small willow island to the north, and a creek +on the south, about twenty-five yards wide, called by the +French, L'eau qui Pleure, or the Weeping Water, and emptying +itself just above a cliff of brown clay. Thence we made +two and a half miles to another island; three miles further +to a third: six miles beyond which is a fourth island; at the +head of which we encamped on the southern shore; in all +eighteen miles. The party, who walked on the shore to-day, +found the plains to the south, rich, but much parched +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_30" id="Pg_30" title="Pg_30">[30]</a></span>with frequent fires, and with no timber, except the scattering +trees about the sources of the runs, which are numerous +and fine. On the north, is a similar prairie country. +The river continues to fall. A large yellow wolf was this +day killed. For a month past the party have been troubled +with biles, and occasionally with the dysentery. These +biles were large tumours which broke out under the arms, +on the legs, and, generally, in the parts most exposed to action, +which sometimes became too painful to permit the men +to work. After remaining some days, they disappeared without +any assistance, except a poultice of the bark of the elm, +or of Indian meal. This disorder, which we ascribe to the +muddiness of the river water, has not affected the general +health of the party, which is quite as good, if not better, +than that of the same number of men in any other situation.</p> + +<p>Saturday, July 21. We had a breeze from the southeast, +by the aid of which we passed, at about ten miles, a willow +island on the south, near high lands covered with timber, +at the bank, and formed of limestone with cemented shells: +on the opposite side is a bad sandbar, and the land near it is +cut through at high water, by small channels forming a +number of islands. The wind lulled at seven o'clock, and +we reached, in the rain, the mouth of the great river Platte, +at the distance of fourteen miles. The highlands which +had accompanied us on the south, for the last eight or ten +miles, stopped at about three quarters of a mile from the +entrance of the Platte. Captains Lewis and Clarke ascended +the river in a periogue, for about one mile, and found the +current very rapid; rolling over sands, and divided into a +number of channels; none of which are deeper than five or +six feet. One of our Frenchmen, who spent two winters on +it, says that it spreads much more at some distance from the +mouth; that its depth is generally not more than five or six +feet; that there are many small islands scattered through +it, and that from its rapidity and the quantity of its sand, it +cannot be navigated by boats or periogues, though the Indians +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_31" id="Pg_31" title="Pg_31">[31]</a></span>pass it in small flat canoes made of hides. That the Saline +or Salt river, which in some seasons is too brackish to be +drank, falls into it from the south about thirty miles up, and +a little above it Elkhorn river from the north, running nearly +parallel with the Missouri. The river is, in fact, much +more rapid than the Missouri, the bed of which it fills with +moving sands, and drives the current on the northern shore, +on which it is constantly encroaching. At its junction the +Platte is about six hundred yards wide, and the same number +of miles from the Mississippi. With much difficulty we +worked round the sandbars near the mouth, and came +to above the point, having made fifteen miles. A number +of wolves were seen and heard around us in the evening.</p> + +<p>July 22. The next morning we set sail, and having +found at the distance of ten miles from the Platte, a high +and shaded situation on the north, we encamped there, intending +to make the requisite observations, and to send for +the neighbouring tribes, for the purpose of making known +the recent change in the government, and the wish of the +United States to cultivate their friendship.<br /></p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_32" id="Pg_32" title="Pg_32">[32]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAP_II" id="CHAP_II"></a>CHAP. II.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Some account of the Pawnee Indians—Council held with the Otto and Missouri +Indians—Council held with another party of the Ottoes—Death of sergeant +Floyd—The party encamp near the mouth of Whitestone river—The character +of the Missouri, with the rivers that enter it—The surrounding country—The +various islands, bays, creeks, &c. given in the course of the expedition.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>Our camp is by observation in latitude 41° 3' 11". Immediately +behind it is a plain about five miles wide, one half +covered with wood, the other dry and elevated. The low +grounds on the south near the junction of the two rivers, are +rich, but subject to be overflowed. Farther up, the banks +are higher, and opposite our camp the first hills approach +the river, and are covered with timber, such as oak, walnut, +and elm. The intermediate country is watered by the +Papillon, or Butterfly creek, of about eighteen yards wide, +and three miles from the Platte; on the north are high open +plains and prairies, and at nine miles from the Platte, the +Musquitoe creek, and two or three small willow islands. +We stayed here several days, during which we dried our +provisions, made new oars, and prepared our despatches and +maps of the country we had passed, for the president of the +United States, to whom we intend to send them by a periogue +from this place. The hunters have found game scarce +in this neighbourhood; they have seen deer, turkies, and +grouse; we have also an abundance of ripe grapes; and one +of our men caught a white catfish, the eyes of which were +small, and its tail resembling that of a dolphin. The present +season is that in which the Indians go out into the prairies +to hunt the buffaloe; but as we discovered some hunter's +tracks, and observed the plains on fire in the direction of their +villages, we hoped that they might have returned to gather +the green indian corn, and therefore despatched two men to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_33" id="Pg_33" title="Pg_33">[33]</a></span>the Ottoes or Pawnee villages with a present of tobacco, and +an invitation to the chiefs to visit us. They returned after +two days absence. Their first course was through an open +prairie to the south, in which they crossed Butterfly creek. +They then reached a small beautiful river, called Come de +Cerf, or Elkhorn river, about one hundred yards wide, with +clear water and a gravelly channel. It empties a little below +the Ottoe village into the Platte, which they crossed, +and arrived at the town about forty-five miles from our +camp. They found no Indians there, though they saw some +fresh tracks of a small party. The Ottoes were once a powerful +nation, and lived about twenty miles above the Platte, +on the southern bank of the Missouri. Being reduced, they +migrated to the neighborhood of the Pawnees, under whose +protection they now live. Their village is on the south side +of the Platte, about thirty miles from its mouth; and their +number is two hundred men, including about thirty families +of Missouri Indians, who are incorporated with them. Five +leagues above them, on the same side of the river, resides +the nation of Pawnees. This people were among the +most numerous of the Missouri Indians, but have gradually +been dispersed and broken, and even since the year 1797, +have undergone some sensible changes. They now consist +of four bands; the first is the one just mentioned, of about +five hundred men, to whom of late years have been added +the second band, who are called republican Pawnees, from +their having lived on the republican branch of the river Kanzas, +whence they emigrated to join the principal band of +Pawnees: the republican Pawnees amount to nearly two +hundred and fifty men. The third, are the Pawnees Loups, or +Wolf Pawnees, who reside on the Wolf fork of the Platte, +about ninety miles from the principal Pawnees, and number +two hundred and eighty men. The fourth band originally resided +on the Kanzas and Arkansaw, but in their wars with +the Osages, they were so often defeated, that they at last +retired to their present position on the Red river, where +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_34" id="Pg_34" title="Pg_34">[34]</a></span>they form a tribe of four hundred men. All these tribes live +in villages, and raise corn; but during the intervals of culture +rove in the plains in quest of buffaloe.</p> + +<p>Beyond them on the river, and westward of the Black +mountains, are the Kaninaviesch, consisting of about four +hundred men. They are supposed to have emigrated originally +from the Pawnees nation; but they have degenerated +from the improvements of the parent tribe, and no longer +live in villages, but rove through the plains.</p> + +<p>Still further to the westward, are several tribes, who +wander and hunt on the sources of the river Platte, and +thence to Rock Mountain. These tribes, of which little +more is known than the names and the population, are +first, the Staitan, or Kite Indians, a small tribe of one +hundred men. They have acquired the name of Kites, +from their flying; that is, their being always on horseback; +and the smallness of their numbers is to be attributed to +their extreme ferocity; they are the most warlike of all +the western Indians; they never yield in battle; they never +spare their enemies; and the retaliation of this barbarity +has almost extinguished the nation. Then come the Wetapahato, +and Kiawa tribes, associated together, and +amounting to two hundred men; the Castahana, of three +hundred men, to which are to be added the Cataka of +seventy-five men, and the Dotami. These wandering tribes, +are conjectured to be the remnants of the Great Padouca +nation, who occupied the country between the upper parts +of the river Platte, and the river Kanzas. They were visited +by Bourgemont, in 1724, and then lived on the Kanzas +river. The seats, which he describes as their residence, +are now occupied by the Kanzas nation; and of the Padoucas, +there does not now exist even the name.</p> + +<p>July 27. Having completed the object of our stay, we +set sail, with a pleasant breeze from the N.W. The two +horses swam over to the southern shore, along which we +went, passing by an island, at three and a half miles, formed +by a pond, fed by springs: three miles further is a large +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_35" id="Pg_35" title="Pg_35">[35]</a></span>sand island, in the middle of the river; the land on the south +being high, and covered with timber; that on the north, a +high prairie. At ten and a half miles from our encampment, +we saw and examined a curious collection of graves +or mounds, on the south side of the river. Not far from +a low piece of land and a pond, is a tract of about two hundred +acres in circumference, which is covered with mounds +of different heights, shapes, and sizes: some of sand, and +some of both earth and sand; the largest being nearest the +river. These mounds indicate the position of the ancient +village of the Ottoes, before they retired to the protection +of the Pawnees. After making fifteen miles, we encamped +on the south, on the bank of a high handsome prairie, with +lofty cottonwood in groves, near the river.</p> + +<p>July 28. At one mile, this morning we reached a bluff, +on the north, being the first highlands, which approach the +river on that side, since we left the Nadawa. Above this, +is an island and a creek, about fifteen yards wide, which, +as it has no name, we called Indian Knob creek, from a +number of round knobs bare of timber, on the highlands, to +the north. A little below the bluff, on the north, is the spot +where the Ayauway Indians formerly lived. They were a +branch of the Ottoes, and emigrated from this place to the river +Desmoines. At ten and three quarter miles, we encamped +on the north, opposite an island, in the middle of the river. +The land, generally, on the north, consists of high prairie +and hills, with timber: on the south, low and covered with +cottonwood. Our hunter brought to us in the evening, a +Missouri Indian, whom he had found, with two others, +dressing an elk; they were perfectly friendly, gave him +some of the meat, and one of them agreed to accompany +him to the boat. He is one of the few remaining Missouris, +who live with the Ottoes: he belongs to a small party, +whose camp is four miles from the river; and he says, that +the body of the nation is now hunting buffaloe in the plains: +he appeared quite sprightly, and his language resembled that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_36" id="Pg_36" title="Pg_36">[36]</a></span>of the Osage, particularly in his calling a chief, inca. We +sent him back with one of our party next morning,</p> + +<p>Sunday, July 29, with an invitation to the Indians, to +meet us above on the river, and then proceeded. We soon +came to a northern bend in the river, which runs within +twenty yards of Indian Knob creek, the water of which is +five feet higher than that of the Missouri. In less than +two miles, we passed Boyer's creek on the north, of twenty-five +yards width. We stopped to dine under a shade, near +the highland on the south, and caught several large catfish, +one of them nearly white, and all very fat. Above this +highland, we observed the traces of a great hurricane, +which passed the river obliquely from N.W. to S.E. and +tore up large trees, some of which perfectly sound, and four +feet in diameter, were snapped off near the ground. We +made ten miles to a wood on the north, where we encamped. +The Missouri is much more crooked, since we passed the +river Platte, though generally speaking, not so rapid; more +of prairie, with less timber, and cottonwood in the low +grounds, and oak, black walnut, hickory, and elm.</p> + +<p>July 30. We went early in the morning, three and a +quarter miles, and encamped on the south, in order to wait +for the Ottoes. The land here consists of a plain, above +the highwater level, the soil of which is fertile, and covered +with a grass from five to eight feet high, interspersed +with copses of large plums, and a currant, like those of the +United States. It also furnishes two species of honeysuckle; +one growing to a kind of shrub, common about +Harrodsburgh (Kentucky), the other is not so high: the +flowers grow in clusters, are short, and of a light pink colour; +the leaves too, are distinct, and do not surround the +stalk, as do those of the common honeysuckle of the United +States. Back of this plain, is a woody ridge about seventy +feet above it, at the end of which we formed our camp. +This ridge separates the lower from a higher prairie, of a +good quality, with grass, of ten or twelve inches in height, +and extending back about a mile, to another elevation of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_37" id="Pg_37" title="Pg_37">[37]</a></span>eighty or ninety feet, beyond which is one continued plain. +Near our camp, we enjoy from the bluffs a most beautiful +view of the river, and the adjoining country. At a distance, +varying from four to ten miles, and of a height between seventy +and three hundred feet, two parallel ranges of highland +affords a passage to the Missouri, which enriches the +low grounds between them. In its winding course, it +nourishes the willow islands, the scattered cottonwood, elm, +sycamore, lynn, and ash, and the groves are interspersed +with hickory, walnut, coffeenut, and oak.</p> + +<p>July 31. The meridian altitude of this day made the latitude +of our camp 41° 18' 1-4/10". The hunters supplied +us with deer, turkies, geese, and beaver; one of the last was +caught alive, and in a very short time was perfectly tamed. +Catfish are very abundant in the river, and we have also +seen a buffaloefish. One our men brought in yesterday +an animal called, by the Pawnees, chocartoosh, and, by +the French, blaireau, or badger. The evening is cool, +yet the musquitoes are still very troublesome.</p> + +<p>We waited with much anxiety the return of our messenger +to the Ottoes. The men whom we despatched to our +last encampment, returned without having seen any appearance +of its having been visited. Our horses too had strayed; +but we were so fortunate as to recover them at the distance +of twelve miles. Our apprehensions were at length relieved +by the arrival of a party of about fourteen Ottoe and +Missouri Indians, who came at sunset, on the second of +August, accompanied by a Frenchman, who resided among +them, and interpreted for us. Captains Lewis and Clarke +went out to meet them, and told them that we would hold a +council in the morning. In the mean time we sent them +some roasted meat, pork, flour, and meal; in return for +which they made us a present of watermelons. We learnt that +our man Liberte had set out from their camp a day before +them: we were in hopes that he had fatigued his horse, or +lost himself in the woods, and would soon return; but we +never saw him again.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_38" id="Pg_38" title="Pg_38">[38]</a></span>August 8. The next morning the Indians, with their six +chiefs, were all assembled under an awning, formed with +the mainsail, in presence of all our party, paraded for the +occasion. A speech was then made, announcing to them +the change in the government, our promises of protection, +and advice as to their future conduct. All the six chiefs +replied to our speech, each in his turn, according to rank: +they expressed their joy at the change in the government; +their hopes that we would recommend them to their great +father (the president), that they might obtain trade and necessaries; +they wanted arms as well for hunting as for defence, +and asked our mediation between them and the Mahas, +with whom they are now at war. We promised to do +so, and wished some of them to accompany us to that nation, +which they declined, for fear of being killed by +them. We then proceeded to distribute our presents. +The grand chief of the nation not being of the party, we +sent him a flag, a medal, and some ornaments for clothing. +To the six chiefs who were present, we gave a medal of the +second grade to one Ottoe chief, and one Missouri chief; a +medal of the third grade to two inferior chiefs of each nation: +the customary mode of recognizing a chief, being to +place a medal round his neck, which is considered among +his tribe as a proof of his consideration abroad. Each of +these medals was accompanied by a present of paint, garters, +and cloth ornaments of dress; and to this we added a cannister +of powder, a bottle of whiskey, and a few presents to +the whole, which appeared to make them perfectly satisfied. +The airgun too was fired, and astonished them greatly. The +absent grand chief was an Ottoe named Weahrushhah, +which, in English, degenerates into Little Thief. The two +principal chieftains present were, Shongotongo, or Big +Horse; and Wethea, or Hospitality; also Shosgusean, or +White Horse, an Ottoe; the first an Ottoe, the second a +Missouri. The incidents just related, induced us to give to +this place the name of the Council-bluff; the situation of it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_39" id="Pg_39" title="Pg_39">[39]</a></span>is exceedingly favourable for a fort and trading factory, as +the soil is well calculated for bricks, and there is an abundance +of wood in the neighbourhood, and the air being pure +and healthy. It is also central to the chief resorts of the +Indians: one day's journey to the Ottoes; one and a half to +the great Pawnees; two days from the Mahas; two and a +quarter from the Pawnees Loups village; convenient to the +hunting grounds of the Sioux; and twenty-five days journey +to Santa Fee.</p> + +<p>The ceremonies of the council being concluded, we set +sail in the afternoon, and encamped at the distance of five +miles, on the south side, where we found the musquitoes +very troublesome.</p> + +<p>August 4. A violent wind, accompanied by rain, purified +and cooled the atmosphere last night; we proceeded early, +and reached a very narrow part of the river, where the +channel is confined within a space of two hundred yards, by +a sand point on the north, and a bend on the south; the banks +in the neighbourhood washing away, the trees falling in, +and the channel filled with buried logs. Above this is a trading +house, on the south, where one of our party passed two +years, trading with the Mahas. At nearly four miles, is a +creek on the south, emptying opposite a large island of sand; +between this creek and our last night's encampment, the river +has changed its bed, and encroached on the southern shore. +About two miles further, is another creek on the south, +which, like the former, is the outlet of three ponds, communicating +with each other, and forming a small lake, which +is fed by streams from the highlands. At fifteen miles, +we encamped on the south. The hills on both sides of the +river are nearly twelve or fifteen miles from each other; +those of the north containing some timber, while the hills of +south are without any covering, except some scattering +wood in the ravines, and near where the creeks pass into +the hills; rich plains and prairies occupying the intermediate +space, and partially covered, near the water, with cottonwood. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_40" id="Pg_40" title="Pg_40">[40]</a></span>There has been a great deal of pumice stone on +shore to-day.</p> + +<p>August 5th. We set out early, and, by means of our oars, +made twenty and a half miles, though the river was crowded +with sandbars. On both sides the prairies extend along +the river; the banks being covered with great quantities of +grapes, of which three different species are now ripe; one +large and resembling the purple grape. We had some rain +this morning, attended by high wind; but generally speaking, +have remarked that thunder storms are less frequent +than in the Atlantic states, at this season. Snakes too are +less frequent, though we killed one to-day of the shape and +size of the rattlesnake, but of a lighter colour. We fixed +our camp on the north side. In the evening, captain Clarke, +in pursuing some game, in an eastern direction, found himself +at the distance of three hundred and seventy yards from +the camp, at a point of the river whence we had come +twelve miles. When the water is high, this peninsula +is overflowed, and judging from the customary and notorious +changes in the river, a few years will be sufficient to +force the main current of the river across, and leave the +great bend dry. The whole lowland between the parallel +range of hills seems formed of mud or ooze of the +river, at some former period, mixed with sand and clay. +The sand of the neighbouring banks accumulates with the +aid of that brought down the stream, and forms sandbars, +projecting into the river; these drive the channel to the opposite +banks, the loose texture of which it undermines, and +at length deserts its ancient bed for a new and shorter passage; +it is thus that the banks of the Missouri are constantly +falling, and the river changing its bed.</p> + +<p>August 6. In the morning, after a violent storm of +wind and rain from N.W. we passed a large island to the +north. In the channel separating it from the shore, a creek +called Soldier's river enters; the island kept it from our view, +but one of our men who had seen it, represents it as about +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_41" id="Pg_41" title="Pg_41">[41]</a></span>forty yards wide at its mouth. At five miles, we came to a +bend of the river towards the north, a sandbar, running in +from the south, had turned its course so as to leave the old +channel quite dry. We again saw the same appearance at +our encampment, twenty and a half miles distant on the +north side. Here the channel of the river had encroached +south, and the old bed was without water, except a few ponds. +The sandbars are still very numerous.</p> + +<p>August 7. We had another storm from the N.W. in +the course of the last evening; in the morning we proceeded, +having the wind from the north, and encamped on the northern +shore, having rowed seventeen miles. The river is +here encumbered with sandbars, but no islands, except two +small ones, called Detachment islands, and formed on the +south side by a small stream.</p> + +<p>We despatched four men back to the Ottoes village in +quest of our man, Liberte, and to apprehend one of the soldiers, +who left us on the 4th, under pretence of recovering +a knife which he had dropped a short distance behind, and +who we fear has deserted. We also sent small presents to +the Ottoes and Missouris, and requested that they would +join us at the Maha village, where a peace might be concluded +between them.</p> + +<p>August 8. At two miles distance, this morning we came +to a part of the river, where there was concealed timber +difficult to pass. The wind was from the N.W. and we proceeded +in safety. At six miles, a river empties on the +northern side, called by the Sioux Indians, Eaneahwadepon, +or Stone river; and by the French, Petite Riviere des +Sioux, or Little Sioux river. At its confluence it is eighty +yards wide. Our interpreter, Mr. Durion, who has been +to the sources of it, and knows the adjoining country, says +that it rises within about nine miles of the river Desmoines; +that within fifteen leagues of that river it passes through a +large lake nearly sixty miles in circumference, and divided +into two parts by rocks which approach each other very +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_42" id="Pg_42" title="Pg_42">[42]</a></span>closely: its width is various: it contains many islands, and is +known by the name of the Lac d'Esprit: it is near the Dogplains, +and within four days march of the Mahas. The country +watered by it, is open and undulating, and may be visited +in boats up the river for some distance. The Desmoines, he +adds, is about eighty yards wide where the Little Sioux river +approaches it: it is shoaly, and one of its principal branches +is called Cat river. Two miles beyond this river is a long +island which we called Pelican island, from the numbers of +that animal which were feeding on it: one of these being killed, +we poured into his bag five gallons of water. An elk, +too, was shot, and we had again to remark that snakes are +rare in this part of the Missouri. A meridian altitude near +the Little Sioux river made the latitude 41° 42' 34". We encamped +on the north, having come sixteen miles.</p> + +<p>August 9. A thick fog detained us until past seven +o'clock, after which we proceeded with a gentle breeze from +the southeast. After passing two sandbars we reached, at +seven and a half miles, a point of highland on the left, near +which the river has forced itself a channel across a peninsula, +leaving on the right a circuit of twelve or eighteen miles, +which is now recognised by the ponds and islands it contains. +At seventeen and a half miles, we reached a point on the north, +where we encamped. The hills are at a great distance from +the river for the last several days; the land, on both sides low, +and covered with cottonwood and abundance of grape vines. +An elk was seen to-day, a turkey also shot, and near our +camp is a beaver den: the musquitoes have been more troublesome +than ever for the two last days.</p> + +<p>August 10. At two and a half miles, we came to a place, +called Coupee a Jacques, where the river has found a new +bed, and abridged a circuit of several miles: at twelve and +a half miles, a cliff of yellow stone on the left. This is the +first highland near the river above the Council-bluff. After +passing a number of sandbars we reached a willow island +at the distance of twenty-two and a half miles, which we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_43" id="Pg_43" title="Pg_43">[43]</a></span>were enabled to do with our oars and a wind from the S.W. +and encamped on the north side.</p> + +<p>August 11. After a violent wind from the N.W. attended +with rain, we sailed along the right of the island. At nearly +five miles, we halted on the south side for the purpose of +examining a spot where one of the great chiefs of the Mahas +named Blackbird, who died about four years ago of the +smallpox, was buried. A hill of yellow soft sandstone rises +from the river in bluffs of various heights, till it ends in +a knoll about three hundred feet above the water; on the top +of this a mound, of twelve feet diameter at the base and six +feet high, is raised over the body of the deceased king; a +pole of about eight feet high is fixed in the centre; on which +we placed a white flag, bordered with red, blue, and white. +The Blackbird seems to have been a personage of great +consideration; for ever since his death he is supplied with +provisions, from time to time, by the superstitious regard of +the Mahas. We descended to the river and passed a small +creek on the south, called, by the Mahas, Waucandipeeche, +(Great Spirit is bad.) Near this creek and the adjoining hills +the Mahas had a village, and lost four hundred of their nation +by the dreadful malady which destroyed the Blackbird. +The meridian altitude made the latitude 42° 1' 3-8/10" north. +We encamped, at seventeen miles distance, on the north side +in a bend of the river. During our day's course it has been +crooked; we observed a number of places in it where the old +channel is filled up, or gradually becoming covered with willow +and cottonwood; great numbers of herons are observed +to-day, and the mosquitoes annoy us very much.</p> + +<p>August 12. A gentle breeze from the south, carried +us along about ten miles, when we stopped to take meridian +altitude, and sent a man across to our place of observation: +yesterday he stepped nine hundred and seventy-four +yards, and the distance we had come round, was eighteen +miles and three quarters. The river is wider and shallower +than usual. Four miles beyond this bend a bluff begins, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_44" id="Pg_44" title="Pg_44">[44]</a></span>continues several miles; on the south it rises from the water +at different heights, from twenty to one hundred and fifty +feet, and higher as it recedes on the river: it consists of yellow +and brown clay, with soft sandstone imbeded in it, and +is covered with timber, among which may be observed some +red cedar: the lands on the opposite side are low and subject +to inundation, but contain willows, cottonwood, and +many grapes. A prairie-wolf came near the bank and barked +at us; we attempted unsuccessfully to take him. This part +of the river abounds in beaver. We encamped on a sand-island +in a bend to the north, having made twenty miles and +a quarter.</p> + +<p>August 13. Set out at daylight with a breeze from the +southeast, and passed several sandbars. Between ten and +eleven miles, we came to a spot on the south, where a Mr. +Mackay had a trading establishment in the year 1795 and +1796, which he called Fort Charles. At fourteen miles, we +reached a creek on the south, on which the Mahas reside, and +at seventeen miles and a quarter, formed a camp on a sandbar, +to the south side of the river, opposite the lower point +of a large island. From this place sergeant Ordway and +four men were detached to the Maha village with a flag +and a present, in order to induce them to come and hold a +council with us. They returned at twelve o'clock the next +day, August 14. After crossing a prairie covered with high +grass, they reached the Maha creek, along which they proceeded +to its three forks, which join near the village: they +crossed the north branch and went along the south; the walk +was very fatiguing, as they were forced to break their way +through grass, sunflowers and thistles, all above ten feet +high, and interspersed with wild pea. Five miles from our +camp they reached the position of the ancient Maha village: +it had once consisted of three hundred cabins, but was +burnt about four years ago, soon after the smallpox had +destroyed four hundred men, and a proportion of women and +children. On a hill, in the rear of the village, are the graves +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_45" id="Pg_45" title="Pg_45">[45]</a></span>of the nation; to the south of which runs the fork of the +Maha creek: this they crossed where it was about ten +yards wide, and followed its course to the Missouri, passing +along a ridge of hill for one and a half mile, and a long pond +between that and the Missouri: they then recrossed the +Maha creek, and arrived at the camp, having seen no +tracks of Indians nor any sign of recent cultivation.</p> + +<p>In the morning 15th, some men were sent to examine +the cause of a large smoke from the northeast, and which +seemed to indicate that some Indians were near; but they +found that a small party, who had lately passed that way, +had left some trees burning, and that the wind from that +quarter blew the smoke directly towards us. Our camp lies +about three miles northeast from the old Maha village, +and is in latitude 42° 15' 41". The accounts we have had +of the effects of the smallpox on that nation are most distressing; +it is not known in what way it was first communicated +to them, though probably by some war party. They +had been a military and powerful people; but when these +warriors saw their strength wasting before a malady which +they could not resist, their phrenzy was extreme; they +burnt their village, and many of them put to death their +wives and children, to save them from so cruel an affliction, +and that all might go together to some better country.</p> + +<p>On the 16th, we still waited for the Indians: a party had +gone out yesterday to the Maha creek, which was damned +up by the beaver between the camp and the village: a second +went to-day. They made a kind of drag with small willows +and bark, and swept the creek: the first company brought +three hundred and eighteen, the second upwards of eight +hundred, consisting of pike, bass, fish resembling salmon, +trout, redhorse, buffaloe, one rockfish, one flatback, perch, +catfish, a small species of perch called, on the Ohio, silverfish, +a shrimp of the same size, shape and flavour of those +about Neworleans, and the lower part of the Mississippi. +We also found very fat muscles; and on the river as well as +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_46" id="Pg_46" title="Pg_46">[46]</a></span>the creek, are different kinds of ducks and plover. The wind, +which in the morning had been from the northwest, shifted +round in the evening to the southeast, and as usual we had +a breeze, which cooled the air and relieve us from the musquitoes, +who generally give us great trouble.</p> + +<p>Friday 17. The wind continued from the southeast, and +the morning was fair. We observe about us a grass resembling +wheat, except that the grain is like rye, also some similar +to both rye and barley, and a kind of timothy, the +seed of which branches from the main stock, and is more +like a flaxseed than a timothy. In the evening, one of the +party sent to the Ottoes, returned with the information that +the rest were coming on with the deserter: they had also +caught Liberte, but, by a trick, he made his escape: they +were bringing three of the chiefs in order to engage our assistance +in making peace with the Mahas. This nation having +left their village, that desirable purpose cannot be effected; +but in order to bring in any neighbouring tribes, we +set the surrounding prairies on fire. This is the customary signal +made by traders to apprize the Indians of their arrival: +it is also used between different nations as an indication of +any event which they have previously agreed to announce +in that way; and as soon as it is seen collects the neighbouring +tribes, unless they apprehend that it is made by their +enemies.</p> + +<p>August 18. In the afternoon the party arrived with the +Indians, consisting of the Little Thief and the Big Horse, +whom we had seen on the third, together with six other +chiefs, and a French interpreter. We met them under a +shade, and after they had finished a repast with which we +supplied them, we inquired into the origin of the war between +them and the Mahas, which they related with great +frankness. It seems that two of the Missouris went to the +Mahas to steal horses, but were detected and killed; the +Ottoes and Missouris thought themselves bound to avenge +their companions, and the whole nations were at last obliged +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_47" id="Pg_47" title="Pg_47">[47]</a></span>to share in the dispute; they are also in fear of a war +from the Pawnees, whose village they entered this summer, +while the inhabitants were hunting, and stole their corn. +This ingenuous confession did not make us the less desirous +of negotiating a peace for them; but no Indians have as yet +been attracted by our fire. The evening was closed by a +dance; and the next day,</p> + +<p>August 19, the chiefs and warriors being assembled at +ten o'clock, we explained the speech we had already sent +from the Council-bluffs, and renewed our advice. They all +replied in turn, and the presents were then distributed: we +exchanged the small medal we had formerly given to the +Big Horse for one of the same size with that of Little Thief: +we also gave a small medal to a third chief, and a kind of +certificate or letter of acknowledgment to five of the warriors +expressive of our favour and their good intentions: one +of them dissatisfied, returned us the certificate; but the chief, +fearful of our being offended, begged that it might be restored +to him; this we declined, and rebuked them severely for +having in view mere traffic instead of peace with their neighbours. +This displeased them at first; but they at length all +petitioned that it should be given to the warrior, who then +came forward and made an apology to us; we then delivered +it to the chief to be given to the most worthy, and he bestowed +it on the same warrior, whose name was Great Blue +Eyes. After a more substantial present of small articles +and tobacco, the council was ended with a dram to the Indians. +In the evening we exhibited different objects of curiosity, +and particularly the airgun, which gave them great +surprise. Those people are almost naked, having no covering, +except a sort of breechcloth round the middle, with a loose +blanket or buffaloe robe painted, thrown over them. The +names of these warriors, besides those already mentioned +were Karkapaha, (or Crow's head) and Nenasawa (or Black +Cat) Missouris; and Sananona (or Iron Eyes) Neswaunja +(or Big Ox) Stageaunja (or Big Blue Eyes) and Wasashaco +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_48" id="Pg_48" title="Pg_48">[48]</a></span>(or Brave Man) all Ottoes. These two tribes speak +very nearly the same language: they all begged us to give +them whiskey.</p> + +<p>The next morning, August 20, the Indians mounted their +horses and left us, having received a canister of whiskey at +parting. We then set sail, and after passing two islands on +the north, came to on that side under some bluffs; the first +near the river since we left the Ayauwa village. Here we +had the misfortune to lose one of our sergeants, Charles Floyd. +He was yesterday seized with a bilious cholic, and all our +care and attention were ineffectual to relieve him: a little +before his death, he said to captain Clark, "I am going to +leave you," his strength failed him as he added "I want you +to write me a letter," but he died with a composure which +justified the high opinion we had formed of his firmness and +good conduct. He was buried on the top of the bluff with +the honours due to a brave soldier; and the place of his interment +marked by a cedar post, on which his name and the +day of his death were inscribed. About a mile beyond this +place, to which we gave his name, is a small river about +thirty yards wide, on the north, which we called Floyd's river, +where we encamped. We had a breeze from the southeast, +and made thirteen miles.</p> + +<p>August 21. The same breeze from the southeast carried +us by a small willow creek on the north, about one mile and +a half above Floyd's river. Here began a range of bluffs +which continued till near the mouth of the great Sioux river, +three miles beyond Floyd's. This river comes in from +the north, and is about one hundred and ten yards wide. +Mr. Durion, our Sioux interpreter, who is well acquainted +with it, says that it is navigable upwards of two hundred +miles to the falls, and even beyond them; that its sources +are near those of the St. Peters. He also says, that below +the falls a creek falls in from the eastward, after passing +through cliffs of red rock: of this the Indians make their +pipes; and the necessity of procuring that article, has introduced +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_49" id="Pg_49" title="Pg_49">[49]</a></span>a sort of law of nations, by which the banks of the +creek are sacred, and even tribes at war meet without hostility +at these quarries, which possess a right of asylum. +Thus we find even among savages certain principles deemed +sacred, by which the rigours of their merciless system of +warfare are mitigated. A sense of common danger, where +stronger ties are wanting, gives all the binding force of more +solemn obligations. The importance of preserving the known +and settled rules of warfare among civilized nations, in all +their integrity, becomes strikingly evident; since even savages, +with their few precarious wants, cannot exist in a state +of peace or war where this faith is once violated. The wind +became southerly, and blew with such violence that we took +a reef in our sail: it also blew the sand from the bars in +such quantities, that we could not see the channel at any +distance ahead. At four and a quarter miles, we came to +two willow islands, beyond which are several sandbars; and +at twelve miles, a spot where the Mahas once had a village, +now no longer existing. We again passed a number of sandbars, +and encamped on the south; having come twenty-four +and three quarter miles. The country through which we +passed has the same uniform appearance ever since we left +the river Platte: rich low-grounds near the river, succeeded +by undulating prairies, with timber near the waters. Some +wolves were seen to-day on the sandbeaches to the south; +we also procured an excellent fruit, resembling a red currant, +growing on a shrub like the privy, and about the height +of a wild plum.</p> + +<p>August 22. About three miles distance, we joined the +men who had been sent from the Maha village with our +horses, and who brought us two deer. The bluffs or hills +which reach the river at this place, on the south, contain allum, +copperas, cobalt which had the appearance of soft isinglass, +pyrites, and sandstone, the two first very pure. Above +this bluff comes in a small creek on the south, which we call +Rologe creek. Seven miles above is another cliff, on the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_50" id="Pg_50" title="Pg_50">[50]</a></span>same side, of allum rock, of a dark brown colour, containing +in its crevices great quantities of cobalt, cemented shells, and +red earth. From this the river bends to the eastward, and +approaches the Sioux river within three or four miles. We +sailed the greater part of the day, and made nineteen miles +to our camp on the north side. The sandbars are as usual +numerous: there are also considerable traces of elk; but +none are yet seen. Captain Lewis in proving the quality of +some of the substances in the first cliff, was considerably injured +by the fumes and taste of the cobalt, and took some +strong medicine to relieve him from its effects. The appearance +of these mineral substances enable us to account for +disorders of the stomach, with which the party had been +affected since they left the river Sioux. We had been in the +habit of dipping up the water of the river inadvertently and +making use of it, till, on examination, the sickness was +thought to proceed from a scum covering the surface of the +water along the southern shore, and which, as we now discovered, +proceeded from these bluffs. The men had been +ordered, before we reached the bluffs, to agitate the water, +so as to disperse the scum, and take the water, not at the +surface, but at some depth. The consequence was, that +these disorders ceased: the biles too which had afflicted the +men, were not observed beyond the Sioux river. In order +to supply the place of sergeant Floyd, we permitted the men +to name three persons, and Patrick Gass having the greatest +number of votes was made a sergeant.</p> + +<p>August 23. We set out early, and at four miles came to a +small run between cliffs of yellow and blue earth: the wind, +however, soon changed, and blew so hard from the west, +that we proceeded very slowly; the fine sand from the bar +being driven in such clouds, that we could scarcely see. Three +and a quarter miles beyond this run, we came to a willow +island, and a sand island opposite, and encamped on the +south side, at ten and a quarter miles. On the north side is +an extensive and delightful prairie, which we called Buffaloe +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_51" id="Pg_51" title="Pg_51">[51]</a></span>prairie, from our having here killed the first buffaloe. Two +elk swam the river to-day and were fired at, but escaped: a +deer was killed from the boat; one beaver was killed; and +several prairie wolves were seen.</p> + +<p>August 24. It began to rain last night, and continued this +morning: we proceeded, however, two and a quarter miles, +to the commencement of a bluff of blue clay, about one hundred +and eighty, or one hundred and ninety feet on the south +side: it seems to have been lately on fire; and even now +the ground is so warm that we cannot keep our hands in it +at any depth: there are strong appearances of coal, and also +great quantities of cobalt, or a crystalized substance resembling +it. There is a fruit now ripe which looks like a currant, +except that it is double the size, and grows on a bush +like a privy, the size of a damson, and of a delicious flavour; +its Indian name means rabbit-berries. We then passed, at +the distance of about seven miles, the mouth of a creek on +the north side, called by an Indian name, meaning Whitestone +river. The beautiful prairie of yesterday, has changed +into one of greater height, and very smooth and extensive. +We encamped on the south side, at ten and a quarter +miles, and found ourselves much annoyed by the musquitoes.<br /></p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_52" id="Pg_52" title="Pg_52">[52]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAP_III" id="CHAP_III"></a>CHAP. III.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux Indians—Council held with the +Sioux—Character of that tribe, their manners, &c.—A ridiculous instance of +their heroism—Ancient fortifications—Quieurre river described—Vast herds +of Buffaloe—Account of the Petit Chien or Little Dog—Narrow escape of +George Shannon—Description of Whiteriver—Surprising fleetness of the Antelope—Pass +the river of the Sioux—Description of the Grand Le Tour, or +Great Bend—Encamp on the Teton river.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>August 25. Captains Lewis and Clarke, with ten men, +went to see an object deemed very extraordinary among all +the neighbouring Indians. They dropped down to the mouth +of Whitestone river, about thirty yards wide, where they +left the boat, and at the distance of two hundred yards, ascended +a rising ground, from which a plain extended itself +as far as the eye could discern. After walking four miles, +they crossed the creek where it is twenty-three yards wide, +and waters an extensive valley. The heat was so oppressive +that we were obliged to send back our dog to the creek, as +he was unable to bear the fatigue; and it was not till after +four hours march that we reached the object of our visit. +This was a large mound in the midst of the plain about N. +20° W. from the month of Whitestone river, from which +it is nine miles distant. The base of the mound is a regular +parallelogram, the longest side being about three hundred +yards, the shorter sixty or seventy: from the longest side it +rises with a steep ascent from the north and south to the +height of sixty-five or seventy feet, leaving on the top a +level plain of twelve feet in breadth and ninety in length. +The north and south extremities are connected by two oval +borders which serve as new bases, and divide the whole side +into three steep but regular gradations from the plain. The +only thing characteristic in this hill is its extreme symmetry, +and this, together with its being totally detached from +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_53" id="Pg_53" title="Pg_53">[53]</a></span>the other hills which are at the distance of eight or nine +miles, would induce a belief that it was artificial; but, as the +earth and the loose pebbles which compose it, are arranged +exactly like the steep grounds on the borders of the creek, +we concluded from this similarity of texture that it might +be natural. But the Indians have made it a great article +of their superstition: it is called the mountain of Little People, +or Little Spirits, and they believe that it is the abode of +little devils, in the human form, of about eighteen inches +high and with remarkably large heads; they are armed with +sharp arrows, with which they are very skilful, and are always +on the watch to kill those who should have the hardihood +to approach their residence. The tradition is, that +many have suffered from these little evil spirits, and among +others, three Maha Indians fell a sacrifice to them a few +years since. This has inspired all the neighbouring nations, +Sioux, Mahas, and Ottoes, with such terror, that no consideration +could tempt them to visit the hill. We saw none of +these wicked little spirits; nor any place for them, except +some small holes scattered over the top: we were happy +enough to escape their vengeance, though we remained some +time on the mound to enjoy the delightful prospect of the +plain, which spreads itself out till the eye rests upon the N.W. +hills at a great distance, and those of N.E. still farther +off, enlivened by large herds of buffaloe feeding at +a distance. The soil of these plains is exceedingly fine; +there is, however, no timber except on the Missouri: all the +wood of the Whitestone river not being sufficient to cover +thickly one hundred acres. The plain country which surrounds +this mound has contributed not a little to its bad reputation: +the wind driving from every direction over the level +ground obliges the insects to seek shelter on its leeward side, +or be driven against us by the wind. The small birds, whose +food they are, resort of course in great numbers in quest of +subsistence; and the Indians always seem to discover an unusual +assemblage of birds as produced by some supernatural +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_54" id="Pg_54" title="Pg_54">[54]</a></span>cause: among them we observed the brown martin employed +in looking for insects, and so gentle that they did not fly until +we got within a few feet of them. We have also distinguished +among numerous birds of the plain, the blackbird, +the wren or prairie bird, and a species of lark about +the size of a partridge, with a short tail. The excessive heat +and thirst forced us from the hill, about one o'clock, to the +nearest water, which we found in the creek, at three miles +distance, and remained an hour and a half. We then went +down the creek, through a lowland about one mile in width, +and crossed it three times, to the spot where we first reached +it in the morning. Here we gathered some delicious +plums, grapes and blue currants, and afterwards arrived at +the mouth of the river about sunset. To this place the +course from the mound is S. twenty miles, E. nine miles; we +there resumed our periogue, and on reaching our encampment +of last night set the prairies on fire, to warn the Sioux +of our approach. In the mean time, the boat under serjeant +Pryor had proceeded in the afternoon one mile, to a bluff +of blue clay on the south, and after passing a sandbar and +two sand islands fixed their camp at the distance of six miles +on the south. In the evening some rain fell. We had +killed a duck and several birds: in the boat, they had caught +some large catfish.</p> + +<p>Sunday, August 26. We rejoined the boat at nine o'clock +before she set out, and then passing by an island, and under +a cliff on the south, nearly two miles in extent and composed +of white and blue earth, encamped at nine miles distance, +on a sandbar towards the north. Opposite to this, on the +south, is a small creek called Petit Arc or Little Bow, and a +short distance above it, an old village of the same name. +This village, of which nothing remains but the mound of +earth about four feet high surrounding it, was built by +a Maha chief named Little Bow, who being displeased with +Blackbird, the late king, seceded with two hundred followers +and settled at this spot, which is now abandoned, as the two +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_55" id="Pg_55" title="Pg_55">[55]</a></span>villages have reunited since the death of Blackbird. We +have great quantities of grapes, and plums of three kinds; +two of a yellow colour, and distinguished by one of the species +being longer than the other; and a third round and red: +all have an excellent flavour, particularly those of the yellow +kind.</p> + +<p>August 27. The morning star appeared much larger than +usual. A gentle breeze from the southeast carried us by some +large sandbars, on both sides and in the middle of the river, +to a bluff, on the south side, at seven and a half miles distant; +this bluff is of white clay or chalk, under which is much +stone, like lime, incrusted with a clear substance, supposed +to be cobalt, and some dark ore. Above this bluff we set +the prairie on fire, to invite the Sioux. After twelve and a +half miles, we had passed several other sandbars, and now +reached the mouth of a river called by the French Jacques +(James river) or Yankton, from the tribe which inhabits its +banks. It is about ninety yards wide at the confluence: the +country which it waters is rich prairie, with little timber: +it becomes deeper and wider above its mouth, and may be +navigated a great distance; as its sources rise near those of +St. Peter's, of the Mississippi, and the red river of lake Winnipeg. +As we came to the mouth of the river, an Indian +swam to the boat; and, on our landing, we were met by two +others, who informed us that a large body of Sioux were +encamped near us: they accompanied three of our men, +with an invitation to meet us at a spot above the river: the +third Indian remained with us: he is a Maha boy, and +says that his nation have gone to the Pawnees to make peace +with them. At fourteen miles, we encamped on a sandbar +to the north. The air was cool, the evening pleasant, the +wind from the southeast, and light. The river has fallen +gradually, and is now low.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 28th. We passed, with a stiff breeze from the +south, several sandbars. On the south is a prairie which +rises gradually from the water to the height of a bluff, +which is, at four miles distance, of a whitish colour, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_56" id="Pg_56" title="Pg_56">[56]</a></span>about seventy or eighty feet high. Further on is another bluff, +of a brownish colour, on the north side; and at the distance of +eight and a half miles is the beginning of Calumet bluff, on the +south side, under which we formed our camp, in a beautiful +plain, to wait the arrival of the Sioux. At the first bluff the +young Indian left us and joined their camp. Before reaching +Calumet bluff one of the periogues ran upon a log in the river, +and was rendered unfit for service; so that all our loading +was put into the second periogue. On both sides of the river +are fine prairies, with cotton wood; and near the bluff there +is more timber in the points and valleys than we have been +accustomed to see.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 29th. We had a violent storm of wind and +rain last evening; and were engaged during the day in repairing +the periogue, and other necessary occupations; +when, at four o'clock in the afternoon, sergeant Pryor and +his party arrived on the opposite side, attended by five +chiefs, and about seventy men and boys. We sent a boat +for them, and they joined us, as did also Mr. Durion, the +son of our interpreter, who happened to be trading with the +Sioux at this time. He returned with sergeant Pryor to the +Indians, with a present of tobacco, corn, and a few kettles; +and told them that we would speak to their chiefs in the +morning. Sergeant Pryor reported, that on reaching their +village, which is at twelve miles distance from our camp, he +was met by a party with a buffaloe robe, on which they desired +to carry their visitors: an honour which they declined, +informing the Indians that they were not the commanders +of the boats: as a great mark of respect, they were then +presented with a fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook +heartily, and found it well flavoured. The camps of +the Sioux are of a conical form, covered with buffaloe +robes, painted with various figures and colours, with an +aperture in the top for the smoke to pass through. The +lodges contain from ten to fifteen persons, and the interior +arrangement is compact and handsome, each lodge having a +place for cooking detached from it.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_57" id="Pg_57" title="Pg_57">[57]</a></span>August 30th. Thursday. The fog was so thick that we +could not see the Indian camp on the opposite side, but it +cleared off about eight o'clock. We prepared a speech, and +some presents, and then sent for the chiefs and warriors, +whom we received, at twelve o'clock, under a large oak tree, +near to which the flag of the United States was flying. Captain +Lewis delivered a speech, with the usual advice and +counsel for their future conduct. We then acknowledged +their chiefs, by giving to the grand chief a flag, a medal, a +certificate, with a string of wampum; to which we added a +chief's coat; that is, a richly laced uniform of the United +States artillery corps, and a cocked hat and red feather. +One second chief and three inferior ones were made or recognised +by medals, and a suitable present of tobacco, and +articles of clothing. We then smoked the pipe of peace, and +the chiefs retired to a bower, formed of bushes, by their +young men, where they divided among each other the presents, +and smoked and eat, and held a council on the answer +which they were to make us to-morrow. The young people +exercised their bows and arrows in shooting at marks for +beads, which we distributed to the best marksmen; and in +the evening the whole party danced until a late hour, and in +the course of their amusement we threw among them some +knives, tobacco, bells, tape, and binding, with which they +were much pleased. Their musical instruments were the +drum, and a sort of little bag made of buffaloe hide, dressed +white, with small shot or pebbles in it, and a bunch of hair +tied to it. This produces a sort of rattling music, with +which the party was annoyed by four musicians during the +council this morning.</p> + +<p>August 31. In the morning, after breakfast, the chiefs +met, and sat down in a row, with pipes of peace, highly ornamented, +and all pointed towards the seats intended for +captains Lewis and Clarke. When they arrived and were +seated, the grand chief, whose Indian name, Weucha, is, +in English Shake Hand, and, in French, is called Le Liberateur +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_58" id="Pg_58" title="Pg_58">[58]</a></span>(the deliverer) rose, and spoke at some length, approving +what we had said, and promising to follow our advice:</p> + +<p>"I see before me," said he, "my great father's two sons. +You see me, and the rest of our chiefs and warriors. We are +very poor; we have neither powder nor ball, nor knives; and +our women and children at the village have no clothes. I +wish that as my brothers have given me a flag and a medal, +they would give something to those poor people, or let them +stop and trade with the first boat which comes up the river. +I will bring chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together, and +make peace between them; but it is better that I should do it +than my great father's sons, for they will listen to me more +readily. I will also take some chiefs to your country in the +spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I went +formerly to the English, and they gave me a medal and some +clothes: when I went to the Spanish they gave me a medal, +but nothing to keep it from my skin; but now you give me a +medal and clothes. But still we are poor; and I wish, brothers, +you would give us something for our squaws."</p> + +<p>"When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose:</p> + +<p>"I have listened," said he, "to what our father's words +were yesterday; and I am, to-day, glad to see how you have +dressed our old chief. I am a young man, and do not wish +to take much: my fathers have made me a chief: I had much +sense before, but now I think I have more than ever. What +the old chief has declared I will confirm, and do whatever +he and you please: but I wish that you would take pity on +us, for we are very poor."</p> + +<p>Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said;</p> + +<p>"I am a young man, and know but little: I cannot speak +well; but I have listened to what you have told the old chief, +and will do whatever you agree."</p> + +<p>The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache.</p> + +<p>We were surprised at finding that the first of these titles +means "Struck by the Pawnee," and was occasioned by some +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_59" id="Pg_59" title="Pg_59">[59]</a></span>blow which the chief had received in battle, from one of the +Pawnee tribe. The second is, in English, "Half Man," which +seems a singular name for a warrior, till it was explained +to have its origin, probably, in the modesty of the chief; +who, on being told of his exploits, would say, "I am no warrior: +I am only half a man." The other chiefs spoke very +little; but after they had finished, one of the warriors delivered +a speech, in which he declared he would support them. +They promised to make peace with the Ottoes and Missouris, +the only nations with whom they are at war. All these +harangues concluded by describing the distress of the nation: +they begged us to have pity on them: to send them traders: +that they wanted powder and ball; and seemed anxious +that we should supply them with some of their great father's +milk, the name by which they distinguish ardent +spirits. We then gave some tobacco to each of the chiefs, +and a certificate to two of the warriors who attended the +chief. We prevailed on Mr. Durion to remain here, and +accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs as he could collect, +down to the seat of government. We also gave his son a +flag, some clothes, and provisions, with directions to bring +about a peace between the surrounding tribe, and to convey +some of their chiefs to see the president. In the evening +they left us, and encamped on the opposite bank, accompanied +by the two Durions. During the evening and night we +had much rain, and observed that the river rises a little. The +Indians, who have just left us, are the Yanktons, a tribe of +the great nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two +hundred men in number; and inhabit the Jacques, Desmoines, +and Sioux rivers. In person they are stout, well proportioned, +and have a certain air of dignity and boldness. +In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of +the nation whom we saw, and will describe afterwards: they +are fond of decorations, and use paint, and porcupine quills, +and feathers. Some of them wore a kind of necklace of +white bear's claws, three inches long, and closely strung +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_60" id="Pg_60" title="Pg_60">[60]</a></span>together round their necks. They have only a few fowling +pieces, being generally armed with bows and arrows, in +which, however, they do not appear as expert as the more +northern Indians. What struck us most was an institution, +peculiar to them, and to the Kite Indians, further to the +westward, from whom it is said to have been copied. It is +an association of the most active and brave young men, who +are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow, +never to retreat before any danger, or give way to their enemies. +In war they go forward without sheltering themselves +behind trees, or aiding their natural valour by any +artifice. This punctilious determination, not to be turned +from their course, became heroic, or ridiculous, a short +time since, when the Yanktons were crossing the Missouri +on the ice. A hole lay immediately in their course, which +might easily have been avoided, by going round. This the +foremost of the band disdained to do; but went straight forward, +and was lost. The others would have followed his +example, but were forcibly prevented by the rest of the +tribe. These young men sit, and encamp, and dance together, +distinct from the rest of the nation: they are generally +about thirty or thirty-five years old; and such is the deference +paid to courage, that their seats in council are superior +to those of the chiefs, and their persons more respected. +But, as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery will +soon diminish the numbers of those who practise it; so that +the band is now reduced to four warriors, who were among +our visitors. These were the remains of twenty-two, who +composed the society not long ago; but, in a battle with the +Kite Indians, of the Black Mountains, eighteen of them +were killed, and these four were dragged from the field by +their companions.</p> + +<p>Whilst these Indians remained with us we made very +minute inquiries relative to their situation and numbers, and +trade, and manners. This we did very satisfactorily, by +means of two different interpreters; and from their accounts, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_61" id="Pg_61" title="Pg_61">[61]</a></span>joined to our interviews with other bands of the same nation, +and much intelligence acquired since, we were enabled +to understand, with some accuracy, the condition of the +Sioux hitherto so little known.</p> + +<p>The Sioux, or Dacorta Indians, originally settled on the +Mississippi, and called by Carver, Madowesians, are now +subdivided into tribes, as follow:</p> + +<p>First, The Yanktons: this tribe inhabits the Sioux, +Desmoines, and Jacques rivers, and number about two hundred +warriors.</p> + +<p>Second, The Tetons of the burnt woods. This tribe numbers +about three hundred men, who rove on both sides of the +Missouri, the White, and Teton rivers.</p> + +<p>Third. The Tetons Okandandas, a tribe consisting of +about one hundred and fifty men, who inhabit both sides of +the Missouri below the Chayenne river.</p> + +<p>Fourth, Tetons Minnakenozzo, a nation inhabiting both +sides of the Missouri, above the Chayenne river, and containing +about two hundred and fifty men.</p> + +<p>Fifth, Tetons Saone; these inhabit both sides of the Missouri +below the Warreconne river, and consist of about +three hundred men.</p> + +<p>Sixth, Yanktons of the Plains, or Big Devils; who rove on +the heads of the Sioux, Jacques, and Red river; the most numerous +of all the tribes, and number about five hundred men.</p> + +<p>Seventh, Wahpatone; a nation residing on the St. Peter's, +just above the mouth of that river, and numbering two +hundred men.</p> + +<p>Eighth, Mindawarcarton, or proper Dacorta or Sioux +Indians. These possess the original seat of the Sioux, and +are properly so denominated. They rove on both sides of +the Mississippi, about the falls of St. Anthony, and consist +of three hundred men.</p> + +<p>Ninth, The Wahpatoota, or Leaf Beds. This nation +inhabits both sides of the river St. Peter's, below Yellow-wood +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_62" id="Pg_62" title="Pg_62">[62]</a></span>river, amounting to about one hundred and fifty +men.</p> + +<p>Tenth, Sistasoone: this nation numbers two hundred +men, and reside at the head of the St. Peter's. Of these several +tribes, more particular notice will be taken hereafter.</p> + +<p>Saturday, September 1, 1804. We proceeded this morning +under a light southern breeze, and passed the Calumet +bluffs; these are composed of a yellowish red, and brownish +clay as hard as chalk, which it much resembles, and are one +hundred and seventy, or one hundred and eighty feet high. +At this place the hills on each side come to the verge of the +river, those on the south being higher than on the north. +Opposite the bluffs is a large island covered with timber; +above which the highlands form a cliff over the river on +the north side, called White Bear cliff; an animal of that +kind being killed in one of the holes in it, which are numerous +and apparently deep. At six miles we came to a large +sand island covered with cottonwood; the wind was high, +and the weather rainy and cloudy during the day. We made +fifteen miles to a place on the north side, at the lower point +of a large island called Bonhomme, or Goodman's island. +The country on both sides has the same character of prairies, +with no timber; with occasional lowlands covered with +cottonwood, elm and oak: our hunters had killed an elk and +a beaver: the catfish too are in great abundance.</p> + +<p>September 2. It rained last night, and this morning we +had a high wind from the N.W. We went three miles to +the lower part of an ancient fortification on the south side, +and passed the head of Bonhomme island, which is large and +well timbered: after this the wind became so violent, attended +by a cold rain, that we were compelled to land at four +miles on the northern side, under a high bluff of yellow clay, +about one hundred and ten feet in height. Our hunters supplied +us with four elk; and we had grapes and plums on the +banks: we also saw the beargrass and rue, on the side of +the bluffs. At this place there are highlands on both sides +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_63" id="Pg_63" title="Pg_63">[63]</a></span>of the river which become more level at some distance back, +and contain but few streams of water. On the southern +bank, during this day, the grounds have not been so elevated. +Captain Clarke crossed the river to examine the remains of +the fortification we had just passed.</p> + + +<!-- Fortification --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_62_f.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_62_t.jpg" width="418" height="700" + alt="Fortification" title="Fortification" /> + </a> +</div> + + +<p>This interesting object is on the south side of the Missouri, +opposite the upper extremity of Bonhomme island, and +in a low level plain, the hills being three miles from the +river. It begins by a wall composed of earth, rising immediately +from the bank of the river and running in a direct +course S. 76°, W. ninety six yards; the base of this +wall or mound is seventy-five feet, and its height about +eight. It then diverges in a course S. 84° W. and continues +at the same height and depth to the distance of fifty-three +yards, the angle being formed by a sloping descent; at the +junction of these two is an appearance of a hornwork of the +same height with the first angle: the same wall then pursues +a course N. 69° W. for three hundred yards: near its +western extremity is an opening or gateway at right angles +to the wall, and projecting inwards; this gateway is defended +by two nearly semicircular walls placed before it, lower +than the large walls; and from the gateway there seems to +have been a covered way communicating with the interval +between these two walls: westward of the gate, the wall +becomes much larger, being about one hundred and five feet +at its base, and twelve feet high: at the end of this high +ground the wall extends for fifty-six yards on a course N. 32° W; +it then turns N. 23° W. for seventy-three yards: +these two walls seems to have had a double or covered way; +they are from ten to fifteen feet eight inches in height, and +from seventy-five to one hundred and five feet in width at +the base; the descent inwards being steep, whilst outwards +it forms a sort of glacis. At the distance of seventy-three +yards, the wall ends abruptly at a large hollow place much +lower than the general level of the plain, and from which is +some indication of a covered way to the water. The space +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_64" id="Pg_64" title="Pg_64">[64]</a></span>between them is occupied by several mounds scattered +promiscuously through the gorge, in the centre of which is a +deep round hole. From the extremity of the last wall, in a +course N. 32° W. is a distance of ninety-six yards over the +low ground, where the wall recommences and crosses the +plain in a course N. 81° W. for eighteen hundred and thirty +yards to the bank of the Missouri. In this course its height +is about eight feet, till it enters, at the distance of five hundred +and thirty-three yards, a deep circular pond of seventy-three +yards diameter; after which it is gradually lower, towards +the river: it touches the river at a muddy bar, which +bears every mark of being an encroachment of the water, for +a considerable distance; and a little above the junction, is a +small circular redoubt. Along the bank of the river, and +at eleven hundred yards distance, in a straight line from this +wall, is a second, about six feet high, and of considerable +width: it rises abruptly from the bank of the Missouri, at +a point where the river bends, and goes straight forward, +forming an acute angle with the last wall, till it enters the +river again, not far from the mounds just described, towards +which it is obviously tending. At the bend the Missouri is +five hundred yards wide; the ground on the opposite side +highlands, or low hills on the bank; and where the river +passes between this fort and Bonhomme island, all the distance +from the bend, it is constantly washing the banks into +the stream, a large sandbank being already taken from +the shore near the wall. During the whole course of this +wall, or glacis, it is covered with trees, among which are +many large cotton trees, two or three feet in diameter. +Immediately opposite the citadel, or the part most strongly +fortified, on Bonhomme island, is a small work in a circular +form, with a wall surrounding it, about six feet in height. +The young willows along the water, joined to the general +appearance of the two shores, induce a belief that the bank +of the island is encroaching, and the Missouri indemnifies +itself by washing away the base of the fortification. The +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_65" id="Pg_65" title="Pg_65">[65]</a></span>citadel contains about twenty acres, but the parts between +the long walls must embrace nearly five hundred acres.</p> + +<p>These are the first remains of the kind which we have +had an opportunity of examining; but our French interpreters +assure us, that there are great numbers of them on the +Platte, the Kanzas, the Jacques, &c. and some of our party +say, that they observed two of those fortresses on the upper +side of the Petit Arc creek, not far from its mouth; that +the wall was about six feet high, and the sides of the angles +one hundred yards in length.</p> + +<p>September 3. The morning was cold, and the wind from +the northwest. We passed at sunrise, three large sandbars, +and at the distance of ten miles reached a small creek, about +twelve yards wide, coming in from the north, above a white +bluff: this creek has obtained the name of Plum creek, +from the number of that fruit which are in the neighbourhood, +and of a delightful quality. Five miles further, we +encamped on the south near the edge of a plain; the river +is wide, and covered with sandbars to-day: the banks are high +and of a whitish colour; the timber scarce, but an abundance +of grapes. Beaver houses too have been observed in +great numbers on the river, but none of the animals themselves.</p> + +<p>September 4. We set out early, with a very cold wind +from S.S.E. and at one mile and a half, reached a small +creek, called Whitelime creek, on the south side. Just above +this is a cliff, covered with cedar trees, and at three miles a +creek, called Whitepaint creek, of about thirty yards wide: +on the same side, and at four and a half miles distance from +the Whitepaint creek, is the Rapid river, or, as it is called +by the French, la Riverequi Court; this river empties into +the Missouri, in a course S.W. by W. and is one hundred and +fifty-two yards wide, and four feet deep at the confluence. It +rises in the Black mountains, and passes through a hilly country, +with a poor soil. Captain Clark ascended three miles to +a beautiful plain, on the upper side, where the Pawnees once +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_66" id="Pg_66" title="Pg_66">[66]</a></span>had a village: he found that the river widened above its +mouth, and much divided by sands and islands, which, joined +to the great rapidity of the current, makes the navigation +very difficult, even for small boats. Like the Platte its waters +are of a light colour; like that river too it throws out +into the Missouri, great quantities of sand, coarser even +than that of the Platte, which form sandbars and shoals +near its mouth.</p> + +<p>We encamped just above it, on the south, having made +only eight miles, as the wind shifted to the south, and blew +so hard that in the course of the day we broke our mast: +we saw some deer, a number of geese, and shot a turkey and +a duck: the place in which we halted is a fine low-ground, +with much timber, such as red cedar, honeylocust, oak, arrowwood, +elm and coffeenut.</p> + +<p>September 5, Wednesday. The wind was again high from +the south. At five miles, we came to a large island, called +Pawnee island, in the middle of the river; and stopped to +breakfast at a small creek on the north, which has the +name of Goat creek, at eight and a half miles. Near the +mouth of this creek the beaver had made a dam across so +as to form a large pond, in which they built their houses. +Above this island the river Poncara falls into the Missouri +from the south, and is thirty yards wide at the entrance. +Two men whom we despatched to the village of the same +name, returned with information that they had found it on +the lower side of the creek; but as this is the hunting season, +the town was so completely deserted that they had +killed a buffaloe in the village itself. This tribe of Poncaras, +who are said to have once numbered four hundred +men, are now reduced to about fifty, and have associated for +mutual protection with the Mahas, who are about two hundred +in number. These two nations are allied by a similarity +of misfortune; they were once both numerous, both resided +in villages, and cultivated Indian corn; their common +enemies, the Sioux and small-pox, drove them from their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_67" id="Pg_67" title="Pg_67">[67]</a></span>towns, which they visit only occasionally for the purposes +of trade; and they now wander over the plains on the sources +of the Wolf and Quieurre rivers. Between the Pawnee +island and Goat creek on the north, is a cliff of blue earth, +under which are several mineral springs, impregnated with +salts: near this we observed a number of goats, from which +the creek derives its name. At three and a half miles from +the creek, we came to a large island on the south, along +which we passed to the head of it, and encamped about four +o'clock. Here we replaced the mast we had lost, with a +new one of cedar: some bucks and an elk were procured to-day, +and a black tailed deer was seen near the Poncara's village.</p> + +<p>Thursday, September 6. There was a storm this morning +from the N.W. and though it moderated, the wind +was still high, and the weather very cold; the number of +sandbars too, added to the rapidity of the current, obliged +us to have recourse to the towline: with all our exertions +we did not make more than eight and a half miles, and encamped +on the north, after passing high cliffs of soft, blue, +and red coloured stone, on the southern shore. We saw +some goats, and great numbers of buffaloe, in addition to +which the hunters furnished us with elk, deer, turkies, +geese, and one beaver: a large catfish too was caught in +the evening. The ground near the camp, was a low prarie, +without timber, though just below is a grove of cottonwood.</p> + +<p>Friday, September 7. The morning was very cold and the +wind southeast. At five and a half miles, we reached and encamped +at the foot of a round mountain, on the south, having +passed two small islands. This mountain, which is about three +hundred feet at the base, forms a cone at the top, resembling +a dome at a distance, and seventy feet or more above +the surrounding highlands. As we descended from this dome, +we arrived at a spot, on the gradual descent of the hill, +nearly four acres in extent, and covered with small holes: +these are the residence of a little animal, called by the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_68" id="Pg_68" title="Pg_68">[68]</a></span>French, petit chien (little dog) who sit erect near the +mouth, and make a whistling noise, but when alarmed take +refuge in their holes. In order to bring them out, we +poured into one of the holes five barrels of water without +filling it, but we dislodged and caught the owner. After +digging down another of the holes for six feet, we found, on +running a pole into it, that we had not yet dug half way to +the bottom: we discovered, however, two frogs in the hole, +and near it we killed a dark rattlesnake, which had swallowed +a small prairie dog: we were also informed, though we +never witnessed the fact, that a sort of lizard, and a snake, +live habitually with these animals. The petit chien are +justly named, as they resemble a small dog in some particulars, +though they have also some points of similarity to +the squirrel. The head resembles the squirrel in every respect, +except that the ear is shorter, the tail like that of +the ground-squirrel, the toe-nails are long, the fur is fine, +and the long hair is gray.</p> + +<p>Saturday, September 8. The wind still continued from +the southeast, but moderately. At seven miles we reached +a house on the north side, called the Pawnee house, where +a trader, named Trudeau, wintered in the year 1796-7: behind +this, hills, much higher than usual, appear to the +north, about eight miles off. Before reaching this house, +we came by three small islands, on the north side, and a +small creek on the south; and after leaving it, reached another, +at the end of seventeen miles, on which we encamped, +and called it Boat island: we here saw herds of buffaloe, and +some elk, deer, turkies, beaver, a squirrel, and a prairie +dog. The party on the north represent the country through +which they passed, as poor, rugged, and hilly, with the appearance +of having been lately burnt by the Indians; the +broken hills, indeed, approach the river on both sides, +though each is bordered by a strip of woodland near the +water.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_69" id="Pg_69" title="Pg_69">[69]</a></span>Sunday, September 9. We coasted along the island on +which we had encamped, and then passed three sand and +willow islands, and a number of smaller sandbars. The river +is shallow, and joined by two small creeks from the +north, and one from the south. In the plains, to the south, +are great numbers of buffaloe, in herds of nearly five hundred; +all the copses of timber appear to contain elk or deer. +We encamped on a sandbar, on the southern shore, at the +distance of fourteen and a quarter miles.</p> + +<p>September 10, Monday. The next day we made twenty +miles. The morning was cloudy and dark, but a light breeze +from the southeast carried us past two small islands on the +south, and one on the north; till, at the distance of ten and a +half miles, we reached an island, extending for two miles in +the middle of the river, covered with red cedar, from which +it derives its name of Cedar island. Just below this island, +on a hill, to the south, is the backbone of a fish, forty-five +feet long, tapering towards the tail, and in a perfect state of +petrifaction, fragments of which were collected and sent to +Washington. On both sides of the river are high dark-coloured +bluffs. About a mile and a half from the island, on the southern +shore, the party on that side discovered a large and very +strong impregnated spring of water; and another, not so +strongly impregnated, half a mile up the hill. Three miles +beyond Cedar island is a large island on the north, and a +number of sandbars. After which is another, about a mile +in length, lying in the middle of the river, and separated by +a small channel, at its extremity, from another above it, on +which we encamped. These two islands are called Mud +islands. The river is shallow during this day's course, and is +falling a little. The elk and buffaloe are in great abundance, +but the deer have become scarce,</p> + +<p>September 11, Tuesday. At six and a half miles we +passed the upper extremity of an island on the south; +four miles beyond which is another on the same side of the +river; and about a quarter of a mile distant we visited a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_70" id="Pg_70" title="Pg_70">[70]</a></span>large village of the barking-squirrel. It was situated on a +gentle declivity, and covered a space of nine hundred +and seventy yards long, and eight hundred yards wide; +we killed four of them. We then resumed our course, +and during five and a half miles passed two islands on the +north, and then encamped at the distance of sixteen miles, +on the south side of the river, and just above a small run. +The morning had been cloudy, but in the afternoon it began +raining, with a high northwest wind, which continued +during the greater part of the night. The country seen to-day +consists of narrow strips of lowland, rising into uneven +grounds, which are succeeded, at the distance of three +miles, by rich and level plains, but without any timber. The +river itself is wide, and crowded with sandbars. Elk, deer, +squirrels, a pelican, and a very large porcupine, were our +game this day; some foxes too were seen, but not caught.</p> + +<p>In the morning we observed a man riding on horseback +down towards the boat, and we were much pleased to find +that it was George Shannon, one of our party, for whose +safety we had been very uneasy. Our two horses having +strayed from us on the 26th of August, he was sent to search +for them. After he had found them he attempted to rejoin +us, but seeing some other tracks, which must have been +those of Indians, and which he mistook for our own, he concluded +that we were ahead, and had been for sixteen days +following the bank of the river above us. During the first +four days he exhausted his bullets, and was then nearly +starved, being obliged to subsist, for twelve days, on a few +grapes, and a rabbit which he killed by making use of a +hard piece of stick for a ball. One of his horses gave out, +and was left behind; the other he kept as a last resource for +food. Despairing of overtaking us, he was returning down +the river, in hopes of meeting some other boat; and was on +the point of killing his horse, when he was so fortunate as +to join us.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_71" id="Pg_71" title="Pg_71">[71]</a></span>Wednesday, September 12. The day was dark and cloudy; +the wind from the northwest. At a short distance we +reached an island in the middle of the river, which is +covered with timber, a rare object now. We with great difficulty +were enabled to struggle through the sandbars, the +water being very rapid and shallow, so that we were several +hours in making a mile. Several times the boat wheeled +on the bar, and the men were obliged to jump out and prevent +her from upsetting; at others, after making a way up +one channel, the shoalness of the water forced us back to seek +the deep channel. We advanced only four miles in the whole +day and encamped on the south. Along both sides of the river +are high grounds; on the southern side particularly, they +form dark bluffs, in which may be observed slate and coal +intermixed. We saw also several villages of barking-squirrels; +great numbers of growse, and three foxes.</p> + +<p>September 13, Thursday. We made twelve miles to-day +through a number of sandbars, which make it difficult to find +the proper channel. The hills on each side are high, and +separated from the river by a narrow plain on its borders. +On the north, these lowlands are covered in part with timber, +and great quantities of grapes, which are now ripe: +on the south we found plenty of plums, but they are not yet +ripe; and near the dark bluffs, a run tainted with allum and +copperas; the southern side being more strongly impregnated +with minerals than the northern. Last night four +beaver were caught in the traps; a porcupine was shot as it +was upon a cottontree, feeding on its leaves and branches. +We encamped on the north side, opposite to a small willow +island. At night the musquitoes were very troublesome, +though the weather was cold and rainy and the wind from +the northwest.</p> + +<p>Friday, September 14. At two miles we reached a round +island on the northern side; at about five, a run on the south; +two and a half miles further, a small creek; and at nine +miles encamped near the month of a creek, on the same +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_72" id="Pg_72" title="Pg_72">[72]</a></span>side. The sandbars are very numerous, and render the river +wide and shallow, and obliged the crew to get into the +water and drag the boat over the bars several times. During +the whole day we searched along the southern shore, +and at some distance into the interior, to find an ancient +volcano which we heard at St. Charles was somewhere in +this neighbourhood; but we could not discern the slightest +appearance of any thing volcanic. In the course of their +search the party shot a buck-goat and a hare. The +hills, particularly on the south, continue high, but the timber +is confined to the islands and banks of the river. We +had occasion here to observe the rapid undermining of these +hills by the Missouri: the first attacks seem to be on the +hills which overhang the river; as soon as the violence of +the current destroys the grass at the foot of them, the whole +texture appears loosened, and the ground dissolves and mixes +with the water: the muddy mixture is then forced over +the low-grounds, which it covers sometimes to the depth of +three inches, and gradually destroys the herbage; after +which it can offer no resistance to the water, and becomes +at last covered with sand.</p> + +<p>Saturday, September 15. We passed, at an early hour, +the creek near our last night's encampment; and at two +miles distance reached the mouth of White river, coming in +from the south. We ascended a short distance, and sent a +sergeant and another man to examine it higher up. This river +has a bed of about three hundred yards, though the water +is confined to one hundred and fifty: in the mouth is a +sand island, and several sandbars. The current is regular +and swift, with sandbars projecting from the points. It +differs very much from the Platte, and Quieurre, in throwing +out, comparatively, little sand, but its general character +is like that of the Missouri. This resemblance was confirmed +by the sergeant, who ascended about twelve miles; +at which distance it was about the same width as near the +mouth, and the course, which was generally west, had been +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_73" id="Pg_73" title="Pg_73">[73]</a></span>interrupted by islands and sandbars. The timber consisted +chiefly of elm; they saw pine burrs, and sticks of birch were +seen floating down the river; they had also met with goats, +such as we have heretofore seen; great quantities of buffaloe, +near to which were wolves, some deer, and villages of +barking squirrels. At the confluence of White river with +the Missouri is an excellent position for a town; the land +rising by three gradual ascents, and the neighbourhood furnishing +more timber than is usual in this country. After +passing high dark bluffs on both sides, we reached the lower +point of an island towards the south, at the distance of +six miles. The island bears an abundance of grapes, and +is covered with red cedar: it also contains a number of rabbits. +At the end of this island, which is small, a narrow +channel separates it from a large sand island, which we passed, +and encamped, eight miles on the north, under a high +point of land opposite a large creek to the south, on which +we observe an unusual quantity of timber. The wind was from +the northwest this afternoon, and high, the weather cold, +and its dreariness increased by the howlings of a number of +wolves around us.</p> + +<p>September 16, Sunday. Early this morning, having reached +a convenient spot on the south side, and at one mile and +a quarter distance, we encamped just above a small creek, +which we called Corvus, having killed an animal of that genus +near it. Finding that we could not proceed over the +sandbars, as fast as we desired, while the boat was so heavily +loaded, we concluded not to send back, as we originally +intended, our third periogue, but to detain the soldiers until +spring, and in the mean time lighten the boat by loading the +periogue: this operation, added to that of drying all our wet +articles, detained us during the day. Our camp is in a beautiful +plain, with timber thinly scattered for three quarters +of a mile, and consisting chiefly of elm, cottonwood, some +ash of an indifferent quality, and a considerable quantity of +a small species of white oak: this tree seldom rises higher +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_74" id="Pg_74" title="Pg_74">[74]</a></span>than thirty feet, and branches very much; the bark is rough, +thick and of a light colour; the leaves small, deeply indented, +and of a pale green; the cup which contains the acorn is +fringed on the edges, and embraces it about one half: the +acorn itself, which grows in great profusion, is of an excellent +flavour, and has none of the roughness which most other +acorns possess; they are now falling, and have probably +attracted the number of deer which we saw on this place, as +all the animals we have seen are fond of that food. The +ground having been recently burnt by the Indians, is covered +with young green grass, and in the neighbourhood are +great quantities of fine plums. We killed a few deer for +the sake of their skins, which we wanted to cover the periogues, +the meat being too poor for food: the cold season +coming on, a flannel shirt was given to each man, and fresh +powder to those who had exhausted their supply.</p> + +<p>Monday, September 16. Whilst some of the party were +engaged in the same way as yesterday, others were employed +in examining the surrounding country. About a quarter +of a mile behind our camp, and at an elevation of twenty +feet above it, a plain extends nearly three miles parallel to +the river, and about a mile back to the hills, towards which +it gradually ascends. Here we saw a grove of plum-trees +loaded with fruit, now ripe, and differing in nothing from +those of the Atlantic states, except that the tree is smaller +and more thickly set. The ground of the plain is occupied by +the burrows of multitudes of barking squirrels, who entice +hither the wolves of a small kind, hawks, and polecats, +all of which animals we saw, and presumed that they fed +on the squirrel. This plain is intersected nearly in its whole +extent by deep ravines and steep irregular rising grounds +from one to two hundred feet. On ascending the range +of hills which border the plain, we saw a second high level +plain stretching to the south as far as the eye could reach. +To the westward, a high range of hills about twenty miles distant +runs nearly north and south, but not to any great extent, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_75" id="Pg_75" title="Pg_75">[75]</a></span>as their rise and termination is embraced by one view, +and they seemed covered with a verdure similar to that +of the plains. The same view extended over the irregular +hills which border the northern side of the Missouri; all +around the country had been recently burnt, and a young +green grass about four inches high covered the ground, +which was enlivened by herds of antelopes and buffaloe; the +last of which were in such multitudes, that we cannot exaggerate +in saying that at a single glance we saw three thousand +of them before us. Of all the animals we had seen the antelope +seems to possess the most wonderful fleetness: shy and timorous +they generally repose only on the ridges, which command +a view of all the approaches of an enemy: the acuteness +of their sight distinguishes the most distant danger, +the delicate sensibility of their smell defeats the precautions +of concealment, and when alarmed their rapid career +seems more like the flight of birds than the movements of +an earthly being. After many unsuccessful attempts, captain +Lewis at last, by winding around the ridges, approached +a party of seven, which were on an eminence, towards which +the wind was unfortunately blowing. The only male of the +party frequently encircled the summit of the hill, as if to +announce any danger to the females, who formed a group +at the top. Although they did not see captain Lewis, the +smell alarmed them, and they fled when he was at the distance +of two hundred yards: he immediately ran to the spot +where they had been, a ravine concealed them from him, +but the next moment they appeared on a second ridge at the +distance of three miles. He doubted whether it could be the +same, but their number and the extreme rapidity with which +they continued their course, convinced him that they must +have gone with a speed equal to that of the most distinguished +racehorse. Among our acquisitions to-day was a mule-deer, +a magpie, the common deer, and buffaloe: captain Lewis +also saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the burrows +of the barking squirrels.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_76" id="Pg_76" title="Pg_76">[76]</a></span>Tuesday, September 18. Having everything in readiness +we proceeded, with the boat much lightened, but the wind +being from the N.W. we made but little way. At one mile +we reached an island in the middle of the river, nearly a +mile in length, and covered with red cedar; at its extremity +a small creek comes in from the north; we then met some +sandbars, and the wind being very high and ahead, we encamped +on the south, having made only seven miles. In addition +to the common deer, which were in great abundance, +we saw goats, elk, buffaloe, the black tailed deer; the large +wolves too are very numerous, and have long hair with +coarse fur, and are of a light colour. A small species of +wolf about the size of a gray fox was also killed, and proved +to be the animal which we had hitherto mistaken for a +fox: there are also many porcupines, rabbits, and barking +squirrels in the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>September 19. We this day enjoyed a cool clear morning, +and a wind from the southeast. We reached at three miles +a bluff on the south, and four miles farther, the lower point +of Prospect island, about two and a half miles in length; +opposite to this are high bluffs, about eighty feet above the +water, beyond which are beautiful plains gradually rising +as they recede from the river: these are watered by three +streams which empty near each other; the first is about +thirty-five yards wide, the ground on its sides high and rich, +with some timber; the second about twelve yards wide, but +with less timber; the third is nearly of the same size, and +contains more water, but it scatters its waters over the large +timbered plain, and empties itself into the river at three +places. These rivers are called by the French Les trois rivieres +des Sioux, the three Sioux rivers; and as the Sioux +generally cross the Missouri at this place, it is called the +Sioux pass of the three rivers. These streams have the same +right of asylum, though in a less degree than Pipestone +creek already mentioned.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_77" id="Pg_77" title="Pg_77">[77]</a></span>Two miles from the island we passed a creek fifteen +yards wide; eight miles further, another twenty yards +wide; three miles beyond which, is a third of eighteen yards +width, all on the south side: the second which passes through +a high plain we called Elm creek; to the third we gave the +name of Night creek, having reached it late at night. About +a mile beyond this is a small island on the north side of the +river, and is called Lower island, as it is situated at the +commencement of what is known by the name of the Grand +Detour, or Great Bend of the Missouri. Opposite is a +creek on the south about ten yards wide, which waters a +plain where there are great numbers of the prickley pear, +which name we gave to the creek. We encamped on the +south, opposite the upper extremity of the island, having +made an excellent day's sail of twenty six and a quarter miles. +Our game this day consisted chiefly of deer, of these four +were black tails, one a buck with two main prongs of horns +on each side and forked equally. Large herds of buffaloe, +elk and goats, were also seen.</p> + +<p>Thursday, September 20. Finding we had reached the +Big Bend, we despatched two men with our only horse +across the neck, to hunt there and wait our arrival at the +first creek beyond it. We then set out with fair weather +and the wind from S.E. to make the circuit of the bend. +Near the lower island the sandbars are numerous, and the +river shallow. At nine and a half miles is a sand island, on +the southern side. About ten miles beyond it is a small +island on the south, opposite to a small creek on the north. +This island, which is near the N.W. extremity of the bend, +is called Solitary island. At about eleven miles further, +we encamped on a sandbar, having made twenty-seven and +a half miles. Captain Clarke, who early this morning had +crossed the neck of the bend, joined us in the evening. At +the narrowest part, the gorge is composed of high and irregular +hills of about one hundred and eighty or one hundred +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_78" id="Pg_78" title="Pg_78">[78]</a></span>and ninety feet in elevation; from this descends an +unbroken plain over the whole of the bend, and the country +is separated from it by this ridge. Great numbers of buffaloe, +elk, and goats are wandering over these plains, accompanied +by grouse and larks. Captain Clarke saw a hare also, on the +Great Bend. Of the goats killed to-day, one is a female +differing from the male in being smaller in size; its horns +too are smaller and straighter, having one short prong, and +no black about the neck: none of these goats have any beard, +but are delicately formed, and very beautiful.</p> + +<p>Friday, September 21. Between one and two o'clock the +serjeant on guard alarmed us, by crying that the sandbar +on which we lay was sinking; we jumped up, and found +that both above and below our camp the sand was undermined +and falling in very fast: we had scarcely got into the +boats and pushed off, when the bank under which they had +been lying, fell in, and would certainly have sunk the two +periogues if they had remained there. By the time we +reached the opposite shore the ground of our encampment +sunk also. We formed a second camp for the rest of the +night; and at daylight proceeded on to the gorge or throat of +the Great Bend, where we breakfasted. A man, whom we +had despatched to step off the distance across the bend, made +it two thousand yards: the circuit is thirty miles. During +the whole course, the land of the bend is low, with occasional +bluffs; that on the opposite side, high prairie ground, +and long ridges of dark bluffs. After breakfast, we passed +through a high prairie on the north side, and a rich cedar +lowland and cedar bluff on the south, till we reached a willow +island below the mouth of a small creek. This creek, +called Tyler's river, is about thirty-five yards wide, comes +in on the south, and is at the distance of six miles from the +neck of the Great Bend. Here we found a deer, and the +skin of a white wolf, left us by our hunters ahead: large +quantities of different kinds of plover and brants are in +this neighbourhood, and seen collecting and moving towards +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_79" id="Pg_79" title="Pg_79">[79]</a></span>the south; the catfish are small, and not in such plenty as +we had found them below this place. We passed several +sandbars, which make the river very shallow and about a +mile in width, and encamped on the south, at the distance +of eleven and a half miles. On each side the shore is lined +with hard rough gulleystones, rolled from the hills and +small brooks. The most common timber is the cedar, +though, in the prairies, there are great quantities of the +prickly pear. From this place we passed several sandbars, +which make the river shallow, and about a mile in width. +At the distance of eleven and a half miles, we encamped on +the north at the lower point of an ancient island, which +has since been connected with the main land by the filling +up of the northern channel, and is now covered with cottonwood. +We here saw some tracks of Indians, but they +appeared three or four weeks old. This day was warm.</p> + +<p>September 22. A thick fog detained us until seven +o'clock; our course was through inclined prairies on each +side of the river, crowded with buffaloe. We halted at a +point on the north side, near a high bluff on the south, and +took a meridian altitude, which gave us the latitude of 44° +11' 33-3/10". On renewing our course, we reached first a small +island on the south, at the distance of four and a half miles, +immediately above which is another island opposite to a +creek fifteen yards wide. This creek, and the two islands, +one of which is half a mile long, and the second three miles, +are called the Three Sisters: a beautiful plain extending on +both sides of the river. This is followed by an island on the +north, called Cedar island, about one mile and a half in +length and the same distance in breadth, and deriving its +name from the quality of the timber. On the south side of +this island, is a fort and a large trading house, built by a +Mr. Loisel, who wintered here during the last year, in order +to trade with the Sioux, the remains of whose camps are +in great numbers about this place. The establishment is +sixty or seventy feet square, built with red cedar and picketted +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_80" id="Pg_80" title="Pg_80">[80]</a></span>in with the same materials. The hunters who had +been sent ahead joined us here. They mention that the +hills are washed in gullies, in passing over which, some mineral +substances had rotted and destroyed their moccasins; +they had killed two deer and a beaver. At sixteen miles +distance we came to on the north side at the mouth of a +small creek. The large stones which we saw yesterday on +the shores are now some distance in the river, and render +the navigation dangerous. The musquitoes are still numerous +in the low grounds.</p> + +<p>Sunday, September 23. We passed, with a light breeze +from the southeast, a small island on the north, called Goat +island; above which is a small creek, called by the party +Smoke creek, as we observed a great smoke to the southwest +on approaching it. At ten miles we came to the lower +point of a large island, having passed two small willow +islands with sandbars projecting from them. This island, +which we called Elk island, is about two and a half +miles long, and three quarters of a mile wide, situated +near the south, and covered with cottonwood, the red currant, +and grapes. The river is here almost straight for a +considerable distance, wide and shallow, with many sandbars. +A small creek on the north, about sixteen yards +wide, we called Reuben's creek; as Reuben Fields, one of +our men, was the first of the party who reached it. At a +short distance above this we encamped for the night, having +made twenty miles. The country, generally, consists of +low, rich, timbered ground on the north, and high barren +lands on the south: on both sides great numbers of buffaloe +are feeding. In the evening three boys of the Sioux +nation swam across the river, and informed us that two +parties of Sioux were encamped on the next river, one consisting +of eighty, and the second of sixty lodges, at some +distance above. After treating them kindly we sent them +back with a present of two carrots of tobacco to their +chiefs, whom we invited to a conference in the morning.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_81" id="Pg_81" title="Pg_81">[81]</a></span>Monday, September 24. The wind was from the east, +and the day fair; we soon passed a handsome prairie on the +north side, covered with ripe plums, and the mouth of a +creek on the south, called Highwater creek, a little above +our encampment. At about five miles we reached an island +two and a half miles in length, and situated near the south. +Here we were joined by one of our hunters, who procured +four elk, but whilst he was in pursuit of the game the Indians +had stolen his horse. We left the island, and soon +overtook five Indians on the shore: we anchored and told +them from the boat we were friends and wished to continue +so, but were not afraid of any Indians; that some of their +young men had stolen the horse which their great father +had sent for their great chief, and that we could not treat +with them until he was restored. They said that they +knew nothing of the horse, but if he had been taken he +should be given up. We went on, and at eleven and a half +miles, passed an island on the north, which we called Good-humoured +island; it is about one and a half miles long, and +abounds in elk. At thirteen and a half miles, we anchored one +hundred yards off the mouth of a river on the south side, +where we were joined by both the periogues and encamped; +two thirds of the party remained on board, and the rest +went as a guard on shore with the cooks and one periogue; we +have seen along the sides of the hills on the north a great +deal of stone; besides the elk, we also observed a hare; the +five Indians whom we had seen followed us, and slept with +the guard on shore. Finding one of them was a chief we +smoked with him, and made him a present of tobacco. This +river is about seventy yards wide, and has a considerable +current. As the tribe of the Sioux which inhabit it are called +Teton, we gave it the name of Teton river.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_82" id="Pg_82" title="Pg_82">[82]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAP_IV" id="CHAP_IV"></a>CHAP. IV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Council held with the Tetons—Their manners, dances, &c.—Chayenne River—Council +held with the Ricara Indians—Their manners and habits—Strange +instance of Ricara idolatry—Another instance—Cannonball river—Arrival +among the Mandans—Character of the surrounding country, and of the +creeks, islands, &c.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>September 25. The morning was fine, and the wind +continued from the southeast. We raised a flagstaff and +an awning, under which we assembled at twelve o'clock, +with all the party parading under arms. The chiefs and +warriors from the camp two miles up the river, met us, +about fifty or sixty in number, and after smoking delivered +them a speech; but as our Sioux interpreter, Mr. Durion, +had been left with the Yanktons, we were obliged to make +use of a Frenchman who could not speak fluently, and +therefore we curtailed our harangue. After this we went +through the ceremony of acknowledging the chiefs, by +giving to the grand chief a medal, a flag of the United +States, a laced uniform coat, a cocked hat and feather: to +the two other chiefs a medal and some small presents; and +to two warriors of consideration certificates. The name of the +great chief is Untongasabaw, or Black Buffaloe; the second +Tortohonga, or the Partisan; the third Tartongawaka, or +Buffaloe Medicine: the name of one of the warriors was +Wawzinggo; that of the second Matocoquepa, or Second +Bear. We then invited the chiefs on board, and showed +them the boat, the airgun, and such curiosities as we +thought might amuse them: In this we succeeded too well; +for after giving them a quarter of a glass of whiskey, which +they seemed to like very much, and sucked the bottle, it +was with much difficulty that we could get rid of them. +They at last accompanied captain Clarke on shore in a periogue +with five men; but it seems they had formed a design +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_83" id="Pg_83" title="Pg_83">[83]</a></span>to stop us; for no sooner had the party landed than three of +the Indians seized the cable of the periogue, and one of the +soldiers of the chief put his arms round the mast: the +second chief who affected intoxication, then said, that we +should not go on, that they had not received presents enough +from us; captain Clarke told him that he would not be +prevented from going on; that we were not squaws, but +warriors; that we were sent by our great father, who could +in a moment exterminate them: the chief replied, that he +too had warriors, and was proceeding to offer personal violence +to captain Clarke, who immediately drew his sword, +and made a signal to the boat to prepare for action. The +Indians who surrounded him, drew their arrows from their +quivers and were bending their bows, when the swivel in +the boat was instantly pointed towards them, and twelve of +our most determined men jumped into the periogue and +joined captain Clarke. This movement made an impression +on them, for the grand chief ordered the young men +away from the periogue, and they withdrew and held a +short council with the warriors. Being unwilling to irritate +them, captain Clarke then went forward and offered +his hand to the first and second chiefs, who refused to take +it. He then turned from them and got into the periogue, +but had not gone more than ten paces when both the chiefs +and two of the warriors waded in after him, and he brought +them on board. We then proceeded on for a mile and anchored +off a willow island, which from the circumstances +which had just occurred, we called Badhumoured island.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, September 26. Our conduct yesterday +seemed to have inspired the Indians with fear of us, and as +we were desirous of cultivating their acquaintance, we +complied with their wish that we should give them an opportunity +of treating us well, and also suffer their squaws +and children to see us and our boat, which would be perfectly +new to them. Accordingly, after passing at one and +a half mile a small willow island and several sandbars, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_84" id="Pg_84" title="Pg_84">[84]</a></span>we came to on the south side, where a crowd of men, women +and children were waiting to receive us. Captain +Lewis went on shore and remained several hours, and observing +that their disposition was friendly we resolved to +remain during the night to a dance, which they were preparing +for us. Captains Lewis and Clarke, who went on +shore one after the other, were met on landing by ten well +dressed young men, who took them up in a robe highly decorated +and carried them to a large council house, where +they were placed on a dressed buffaloe skin by the side of +the grand chief. The hall or council-room was in the shape +of three quarters of a circle, covered at the top and sides +with skins well dressed and sewed together. Under this +shelter sat about seventy men, forming a circle round the +chief, before whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one +we had given them yesterday. This left a vacant circle of +about six feet diameter, in which the pipe of peace was +raised on two forked sticks, about six or eight inches from +the ground, and under it the down of the swan was scattered: +a large fire, in which they were cooking provisions, +stood near, and in the centre about four hundred pounds of +excellent buffaloe meat as a present for us. As soon as we +were seated, an old man got up, and after approving what +we had done, begged us to take pity on their unfortunate +situation. To this we replied with assurances of protection. +After he had ceased, the great chief rose and delivered an +harangue to the same effect: then with great solemnity he +took some of the most delicate parts of the dog, which +was cooked for the festival, and held it to the flag by way +of sacrifice: this done, he held up the pipe of peace, and +first pointed it towards the heavens, then to the four quarters +of the globe, and then to the earth, made a short +speech, lighted the pipe, and presented it to us. We smoked, +and he again harangued his people, after which the repast +was served up to us. It consisted of the dog which they +had just been cooking, this being a great dish among the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_85" id="Pg_85" title="Pg_85">[85]</a></span>Sioux and used on all festivals; to this were added, pemitigon, +a dish made of buffaloe meat, dried or jerked, and then +pounded and mixed raw with grease and a kind of ground +potatoe, dressed like the preparation of Indian corn called +hominy, to which it is little inferior. Of all these luxuries +which were placed before us in platters with horn spoons, +we took the pemitigon and the potatoe, which we found +good, but we could as yet partake but sparingly of the dog. +We eat and smoked for an hour, when it became dark: +every thing was then cleared away for the dance, a large +fire being made in the centre of the house, giving at once +light and warmth to the ballroom. The orchestra was +composed of about ten men, who played on a sort of tambourin, +formed of skin stretched across a hoop; and made a +jingling noise with a long stick to which the hoofs of deer +and goats were hung; the third instrument was a small +skin bag with pebbles in it: these, with five or six young +men for the vocal part, made up the band. The women +then came forward highly decorated; some with poles in +their hands, on which were hung the scalps of their enemies; +others with guns, spears or different trophies, taken +in war by their husbands, brothers, or connexions. Having +arranged themselves in two columns, one on each side of the +fire, as soon as the music began they danced towards each +other till they met in the centre, when the rattles were +shaken, and they all shouted and returned back to their +places. They have no step, but shuffle along the ground; +nor does the music appear to be any thing more than a confusion +of noises, distinguished only by hard or gentle +blows upon the buffaloe skin: the song is perfectly extemporaneous. +In the pauses of the dance, any man of the +company comes forward and recites, in a sort of low guttural +tone, some little story or incident, which is either martial +or ludicrous; or, as was the case this evening, voluptuous +and indecent; this is taken up by the orchestra and the +dancers, who repeat it in a higher strain and dance to it. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_86" id="Pg_86" title="Pg_86">[86]</a></span>Sometimes they alternate; the orchestra first performing, +and when it ceases, the women raise their voices and +make a music more agreeable, that is, less intolerable than +that of the musicians. The dances of the men, which are +always separate from those of the women, are conducted +very nearly in the same way, except that the men jump up +and down instead of shuffling; and in the war dances the recitations +are all of a military cast. The harmony of the entertainment +had nearly been disturbed by one of the musicians, +who thinking he had not received a due share of the +tobacco we had distributed during the evening, put himself +into a passion, broke one of the drums, threw two of them +into the fire, and left the band. They were taken out of the +fire: a buffaloe robe held in one hand and beaten with the +other, by several of the company, supplied the place of the +lost drum or tambourin, and no notice was taken of the offensive +conduct of the man. We staid till twelve o'clock at +night, when we informed the chiefs that they must be fatigued +with all these attempts to amuse us, and retired accompanied +by four chiefs, two of whom spent the night with +us on board.</p> + +<p>While on shore we saw twenty-five squaws, and about +the same number of children, who had been taken prisoners +two weeks ago, in a battle with their countrymen the Mahas. +In this engagement the Sioux destroyed forty lodges, killed +seventy-five men, of which we saw many of the scalps, and +took these prisoners; their appearance is wretched and dejected; +the women too seem low in stature, coarse and ugly; +though their present condition may diminish their beauty. +We gave them a variety of small articles, such as awls and +needles, and interceded for them with the chiefs, to whom +we recommended to follow the advice of their great father, +to restore the prisoners and live in peace with the Mahas, +which they promised to do.</p> + +<p>The tribe which we this day saw, are a part of the great +Sioux nation, and are known by the name of the Teton Okandandas: +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_87" id="Pg_87" title="Pg_87">[87]</a></span>they are about two hundred men in number, and +their chief residence is on both sides of the Missouri, between +the Chayenne and Teton rivers. In their persons they are +rather ugly and ill made, their legs and arms being too small, +their cheekbones high, and their eyes projecting. The females, +with the same character of form, are more handsome; +and both sexes appear cheerful and sprightly; but in our +intercourse with them we discovered that they were cunning +and vicious.</p> + +<p>The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small +tuft on the top, which they suffer to grow and wear in +plaits over the shoulders; to this they seem much attached, +as the loss of it is the usual sacrifice at the death of near +relations. In full dress, the men of consideration wear a hawk's +feather, or calumet feather worked with porcupine quills, +and fastened to the top of the head, from which it falls back. +The face and body are generally painted with a mixture of +grease and coal. Over the shoulders is a loose robe or mantle +of buffaloe skin dressed white, adorned with porcupine quills +loosely fixed so as to make a gingling noise when in motion, +and painted with various uncouth figures unintelligible to +us, but to them emblematic of military exploits, or any other +incident; the hair of the robe is worn next the skin in fair +weather, but when it rains the hair is put outside, and the +robe is either thrown over the arm, or wrapped round the +body, all of which it may cover. Under this in the winter +season they wear a kind of shirt resembling ours, and made +either of skin or cloth, and covering the arms and body. +Round the middle is fixed a girdle of cloth or procured dressed +elk-skin, about an inch in width and closely tied to the +body, to this is attached a piece of cloth or blanket or skin +about a foot wide, which passes between the legs and is +tucked under the girdle both before and behind; from the +hip to the ancle he is covered by leggings of dressed antelope +skins, with seams at the sides two inches in width, and +ornamented by little tufts of hair the produce of the scalps +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_88" id="Pg_88" title="Pg_88">[88]</a></span>they have made in war, which are scattered down the leg. +The winter moccasins are of dressed buffaloe-skin, the hair +being worn inwards, and soaled with thick elk-skin parchment: +those for summer are of deer or elk-skin, dressed +without the hair, and with soals of elk-skin. On great occasions, +or wherever they are in full dress, the young men +drag after them the entire skin of a polecat fixed to the heel +of the moccasin. Another skin of the same animal is either +tucked into the girdle or carried in the hand, and serves as +a pouch for their tobacco, or what the French traders call +the bois roule: this is the inner bark of a species of red willow, +which being dried in the sun or over the fire, is rubbed +between the hands and broken into small pieces, and is used +alone or mixed with tobacco. The pipe is generally of red +earth, the stem made of ash, about three or four feet long, +and highly decorated with feathers, hair and porcupine +quills.</p> + +<p>The hair of the women is suffered to grow long, and is +parted from the forehead across the head, at the back of +which it is either collected into a kind of bag, or hangs down +over the shoulders. Their moccasins are like those of the +men, as are also the leggings, which do not however reach +beyond the knee, where it is met by a long loose shift of skin +which reaches nearly to the ancles: this is fastened over the +shoulders by a string and has no sleeves, but a few pieces of +the skin hang a short distance down the arm. Sometimes a +girdle fastens this skin round the waist, and over all is thrown +a robe like that worn by the men. They seem fond of dress. +Their lodges are very neatly constructed, in the same form as +those of the Yanktons; they consist of about one hundred +cabins, made of white buffaloe hide dressed, with a larger +one in the centre for holding councils and dances. They +are built round with poles about fifteen or twenty feet high, +covered with white skins; these lodges may be taken to +pieces, packed up, and carried with the nation wherever +they go, by dogs which bear great burdens. The women +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_89" id="Pg_89" title="Pg_89">[89]</a></span>are chiefly employed in dressing buffaloe skins: they seem +perfectly well disposed, but are addicted to stealing any +thing which they can take without being observed. This +nation, although it makes so many ravages among its neighbours, +is badly supplied with guns. The water which they +carry with them is contained chiefly in the paunches of +deer and other animals, and they make use of wooden +bowls. Some had their heads shaved, which we found was +a species of mourning for relations. Another usage, on +these occasions, is to run arrows through the flesh both +above and below the elbow.</p> + +<p>While on shore to-day we witnessed a quarrel between +two squaws, which appeared to be growing every moment +more boisterous, when a man came forward, at whose approach +every one seemed terrified and ran. He took the +squaws, and without any ceremony whipped them severely; +on inquiring into the nature of such summary justice, we +learnt that this man was an officer well known to this and +many other tribes. His duty is to keep the peace, and the +whole interior police of the village is confided to two or three +of these officers, who are named by the chief and remain +in power some days, at least till the chief appoints +a successor; they seem to be a sort of constable or sentinel, +since they are always on the watch to keep tranquillity +during the day, and guarding the camp in the night. +The short duration of their office is compensated by its +authority: his power is supreme, and in the suppression of +any riot or disturbance no resistance to him is suffered: his +person is sacred, and if in the execution of his duty he strikes +even a chief of the second class, he cannot be punished for +this salutary insolence. In general they accompany the +person of the chief, and when ordered to any duty, however +dangerous, it is a point of honour rather to die than +to refuse obedience. Thus, when they attempted to stop us +yesterday, the chief ordered one of these men to take possession +of the boat: he immediately put his arms round the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_90" id="Pg_90" title="Pg_90">[90]</a></span>mast, and, as we understood, no force except the command of +the chief would have induced him to release his hold. Like +the other men their bodies are blackened, but their distinguishing +mark is a collection of two or three raven skins +fixed to the girdle behind the back in such a way, that the +tails stick out horizontally from the body. On his head too +is a raven skin split into two parts, and tied so as to let the +beak project from the forehead.</p> + +<p>Thursday September 27. We rose early, and the two +chiefs took off, as a matter of course and according to their +custom, the blanket on which they had slept. To this we +added a peck of corn as a present to each. Captain Lewis +and the chiefs went on shore to see a part of the nation +that was expected, but did not come. He returned at two +o'clock, with four of the chiefs and a warrior of distinction, +called Wadrapa, (or on his guard); they examined +the boat and admired whatever was strange, during half +an hour, when they left it with great reluctance. Captain +Clarke accompanied them to the lodge of the grand chief, +who invited them to a dance, where, being joined by captain +Lewis, they remained till a late hour. The dance was very +similar to that of yesterday. About twelve we left them, +taking the second chief and one principal warrior on board: +as we came near the boat the man who steered the periogue, +by mistake, brought her broadside against the boat's +cable, and broke it. We called up all hands to their oars; +but our noise alarmed the two Indians: they called out to +their companions, and immediately the whole camp crowded +to the shore; but after half an hour they returned, leaving +about sixty men near us. The alarm given by the chiefs +was said to be that the Mahas had attacked us, and that +they were desirous of assisting us to repel it; but we suspected +that they were afraid we meant to set sail, and intended +to prevent us from doing so; for in the night the +Maha prisoners had told one of our men, who understood +the language, that we were to be stopped. We therefore, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_91" id="Pg_91" title="Pg_91">[91]</a></span>without giving any indication of our suspicion, prepared +every thing for an attack, as the loss of our anchor obliged +to come to near a falling bank, very unfavourable for defence. +We were not mistaken in these opinions; for when in +the morning,</p> + +<p>Friday, September 28, after dragging unsuccessfully +for the anchor, we wished to set sail, it was with great difficulty +that we could make the chiefs leave the boat. At +length we got rid of all except the great chief; when just +as we were setting out, several of the chief's soldiers sat on +the rope which held the boat to the shore. Irritated at this +we got every thing ready to fire on them if they persisted, +but the great chief said that these were his soldiers and +only wanted some tobacco. We had already refused a flag +and some tobacco to the second chief, who had demanded it +with great importunity; but willing to leave them without +going to extremities, we threw him a carrot of tobacco, +saying to him, "You have told us that you were a great +man, and have influence; now show your influence, by taking +the rope from those men, and we will then go without +any further trouble." This appeal to his pride had the desired +effect; he went out of the boat, gave the soldiers the +tobacco, and pulling the rope out of their hands delivered +it on board, and we then set sail under a breeze from the +S.E. After sailing about two miles we observed the +third chief beckoning to us: we took him on board, and he +informed us that the rope had been held by the order of the +second chief, who was a double-faced man. A little farther +on we were joined by the son of the chief, who came on +board to see his father. On his return we sent a speech to +the nation, explaining what we had done, and advising them +to peace; but if they persisted in their attempts to stop us, we +were willing and able to defend ourselves. After making +six miles, during which we passed a willow island on the +south and one sandbar, we encamped on another in the middle +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_92" id="Pg_92" title="Pg_92">[92]</a></span>of the river. The country on the south-side was a low +prairie, that on the north highland.</p> + +<p>September 29. We set out early, but were again impeded +by sandbars, which made the river shallow; the weather +was however fair; the land on the north side low and covered +with timber contrasted with the bluffs to the south. At +nine o'clock we saw the second chief and two women and +three men on shore, who wished us to take two women offered +by the second chief to make friends, which was refused; +he then requested us to take them to the other band of +their nation, who were on the river not far from us: this +we declined; but in spite of our wishes they followed us +along shore. The chief asked us to give them some tobacco; +this we did, and gave more as a present for that part of +the nation which we did not see. At seven and a half miles +we came to a small creek on the southern side, where we +saw great numbers of elk, and which we called Notimber +creek from its bare appearance. Above the mouth of this +stream, a Ricara band of Pawnees had a village five years +ago: but there are no remains of it except the mound which +encircled the town. Here the second chief went on shore. +We then proceeded, and at the distance of eleven miles encamped +on the lower part of a willow island, in the middle of +the river, being obliged to substitute large stones in the +place of the anchor which we lost.</p> + +<p>September 30. The wind was this morning very high +from the southeast, so that we were obliged to proceed under +a double-reefed mainsail, through the rain. The country +presented a large low prairie covered with timber on +the north side; on the south, we first had high barren hills, +but after some miles it became of the same character as that +on the opposite side. We had not gone far when an Indian +ran after us, and begged to be carried on board as far as the +Ricaras, which we refused: soon after, we discovered on +the hills at a distance, a great number of Indians, who came +towards the river and encamped ahead of us. We stopped +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_93" id="Pg_93" title="Pg_93">[93]</a></span>at a sandbar, at about eleven miles, and after breakfasting +proceeded on a short distance to their camp, which consisted +of about four hundred souls. We anchored one hundred +yards from the shore, and discovering that they were Tetons +belonging to the band which we had just left: we told +them that we took them by the hand, and would make each +chief a present of tobacco; that we had been badly treated +by some of their band, and that having waited for them two +days below, we could not stop here, but referred them to +Mr. Durion for our talk and an explanation of our views: +they then apologized for what had past, assured us that +they were friendly, and very desirous that we should land +and eat with them: this we refused, but sent the periogue +on shore with the tobacco, which was delivered to one of the +soldiers of the chief, whom we had on board. Several of +them now ran along the shore after us, but the chief threw +them a twist of tobacco, and told them to go back and open +their ears to our counsels; on which they immediately returned +to their lodges. We then proceeded past a continuation +of the low prairie on the north, where we had large +quantities of grapes, and on the south saw a small creek and +an island. Six miles above this, two Indians came to the +bank, looked at us about half an hour, and then went without +speaking over the hills to the southwest. After some +time, the wind rose still higher, and the boat struck a log, +turned, and was very near taking in water. The chief became +so much terrified at the danger, that he hid himself +in the boat, and as soon as we landed got his gun and told +us that he wanted to return, that we would now see no more +Tetons, and that we might proceed unmolested: we repeated +the advice we had already given, presented him with a +blanket, a knife, some tobacco, and after smoking with him +he set out. We then continued to a sandbar on the north +side, where we encamped, having come twenty and a half +miles. In the course of the day we saw a number of sandbars +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_94" id="Pg_94" title="Pg_94">[94]</a></span>which impede the navigation. The only animal which +we observed was the white gull, then in great abundance.</p> + +<p>October 1st, 1804. The weather was very cold and the +wind high from the southeast during the night, and continued +so this morning. At three miles distance, we had +passed a large island in the middle of the river, opposite to +the lower end of which the Ricaras once had a village on the +south side of the river: there are, however, no remnants of +it now, except a circular wall three or four feet in height, +which encompassed the town. Two miles beyond this island +is a river coming in from the southwest, about four hundred +yards wide; the current gentle, and discharging not +much water, and very little sand: it takes its rise in the +second range of the Cote Noire or Black mountains, and its +general course is nearly east; this river has been occasionally +called Dog river, under a mistaken opinion that its French +name was Chien, but its true appellation is Chayenne, and +it derives this title from the Chayenne Indians: their history +is the short and melancholy relation of the calamities +of almost all the Indians. They were a numerous people +and lived on the Chayenne, a branch of the Red river of +Lake Winnipeg. The invasion of the Sioux drove them +westward; in their progress they halted on the southern +side of the Missouri below the Warreconne, where their +ancient fortifications still exist; but the same impulse again +drove them to the heads of the Chayenne, where they now +rove, and occasionally visit the Ricaras. They are now +reduced, but still number three hundred men.</p> + +<p>Although the river did not seem to throw out much +sand, yet near and above its mouth we find a great many +sandbars difficult to pass. On both sides of the Missouri, +near the Chayenne, are rich thinly timbered lowlands, +behind which are bare hills. As we proceeded, +we found that the sandbars made the river so shallow, and +the wind was so high, that we could scarcely find the channel, +and at one place were forced to drag the boat over a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_95" id="Pg_95" title="Pg_95">[95]</a></span>sandbar, the Missouri being very wide and falling a little. +At seven and a half miles we came to at a point, and remained +three hours, during which time the wind abated: +we then passed within four miles two creeks on the south, +one of which we called Centinel creek, and the other +Lookout creek. This part of the river has but little timber; +the hills are not so high as we have hitherto seen, +and the number of sandbars extends the river to more than +a mile in breadth. We continued about four and a half +miles further, to a sandbar in the middle of the river, +where we spent the night, our progress being sixteen miles. +On the opposite shore, we saw a house among the willows +and a boy to whom we called, and brought him on board. +He proved to be a young Frenchman in the employ of a Mr. +Valle a trader, who is now here pursuing his commerce +with the Sioux.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, October 2. There had been a violent wind +from S.E. during the night, which having moderated +we set sail with Mr. Valle, who visited us this morning and +accompanied us for two miles. He is one of three French +traders who have halted here, expecting the Sioux who are +coming down from the Ricaras, where they now are, for the +purposes of traffic. Mr. Valle tells us that he passed the +last winter three hundred leagues up the Chayenne under +the Black mountains. That river he represents as very rapid, +liable to sudden swells, the bed and shores formed of +course gravel, and difficult of ascent even for canoes. One +hundred leagues from its mouth it divides into two branches, +one coming from the south, the other at forty leagues +from the junction enters the Black mountains. The land +which it waters from the Missouri to the Black mountains, +resembles the country on the Missouri, except that the former +has even less timber, and of that the greater proportion +is cedar. The Chayennes reside chiefly on the heads +of the river, and steal horses from the Spanish settlement, +a plundering excursion which they perform in a month's +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_96" id="Pg_96" title="Pg_96">[96]</a></span>time. The Black mountains he observes are very high, covered +with great quantities of pine, and in some parts the +snow remains during the summer. There are also great +quantities of goats, white bear, prairie cocks, and a species +of animal which from his description must resemble a small +elk, with large circular horns.</p> + +<p>At two and a half miles we had passed a willow island +on the south, on the north side of the river were dark bluffs, +and on the south low rich prairies. We took a meridian altitude +on our arrival at the upper end of the isthmus of the +bend, which we called the Lookout bend, and found the latitude +to be 44° 19' 36". This bend is nearly twenty miles +round, and not more than two miles across.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we heard a shot fired, and not long after +observed some Indians on a hill: one of them came to the +shore and wished us to land, as there were twenty lodges +of Yanktons or Boisbrule there; we declined doing so, telling +him that we had already seen his chiefs, and that they +might learn from Mr. Durion the nature of the talk we had +delivered to them. At nine miles we came to the lower +point of a long island on the north, the banks of the south +side of the river being high, those of the north forming a low +rich prairie. We coasted along this island, which we called +Caution island, and after passing a small creek on the south +encamped on a sandbar in the middle of the river, having +made twelve miles. The wind changed to the northwest, +and became very high and cold. The current of the river +is less rapid, and the water though of the same colour contains +less sediment than below the Chayenne, but its width +continues the same. We were not able to hunt to-day; for as +there are so many Indians in the neighbourhood, we were +in constant expectation of being attacked, and were therefore +forced to keep the party together and be on our guard.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, October 3. The wind continued so high +from the northwest, that we could not set out till after +seven: we then proceeded till twelve o'clock, and landed on +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_97" id="Pg_97" title="Pg_97">[97]</a></span>a bar towards the south, where we examined the periogues, +and the forecastle of the boat, and found that the mice had +cut several bags of corn, and spoiled some of our clothes: +about one o'clock an Indian came running to the shore with +a turkey on his back: several others soon joined him, but we +had no intercourse with them. We then went on for three +miles, but the ascent soon became so obstructed by sandbars +and shoal water, that after attempting in vain several channels, +we determined to rest for the night under some high +bluffs on the south, and send out to examine the best channel. +We had made eight miles along high bluffs on each +side. The birds we saw were the white gulls and the brant +which were flying to the southward in large flocks.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 4th. On examination we found that there was +no outlet practicable for us in this channel, and that we +must retread our steps. We therefore returned three +miles, and attempted another channel in which we were +more fortunate. The Indians were in small numbers on the +shore, and seemed willing had they been more numerous to +molest us. They called to desire that we would land, and +one of them gave three yells and fired a ball ahead of the +boat: we however took no notice of it, but landed on the +south to breakfast. One of these Indians swam across and +begged for some powder, we gave him a piece of tobacco +only. At eight and a half miles we had passed an island in +the middle of the river, which we called Goodhope island. +At one and a half mile we reached a creek on the south side +about twelve yards wide, to which we gave the name of Teal +creek. A little above this is an island on the north side of +the current, about one and a half mile in length and three +quarters of a mile in breadth. In the centre of this island +is an old village of the Ricaras, called Lahoocat; it was surrounded +by a circular wall, containing seventeen lodges. +The Ricaras are known to have lived therein 1797, and the +village seems to have been deserted about five years since; +it does not contain much timber. We encamped on a sandbar +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_98" id="Pg_98" title="Pg_98">[98]</a></span>making out from the upper end of this island; our journey +to-day being twelve miles.</p> + +<p>Friday, October 5. The weather was very cold: yesterday +evening and this morning there was a white frost. We +sailed along the highlands on the north side, passing a small +creek on the south, between three and four miles. At +seven o'clock we heard some yells and saw three Indians of +the Teton band, who asked us to come on shore and begged +for some tobacco, to all which we gave the same answer as +hitherto. At eight miles we reached a small creek on the +north. At fourteen we passed an island on the south, covered +with wild rye, and at the head a large creek comes in from +the south, which we named Whitebrant creek, from seeing +several white brants among flocks of dark-coloured ones. At +the distance of twenty miles we came to on a sandbar towards +the north side of the river, with a willow island opposite; +the hills or bluffs come to the banks of the river on +both sides, but are not so high as they are below: the +river itself however continues of the same width, and the +sandbars are quite as numerous. The soil of the banks is +dark coloured, and many of the bluffs have the appearance +of being on fire. Our game this day was a deer, a prairie +wolf, and some goats out of a flock that was swimming across +the river.</p> + +<p>Saturday, October 6. The morning was still cold, the +wind being from the north. At eight miles we came to a +willow island on the north, opposite a point of timber, where +there are many large stones near the middle of the river, +which seem to have been washed from the hills and high +plains on both sides, or driven from a distance down the stream. +At twelve miles we halted for dinner at a village which we +suppose to have belonged to the Ricaras; it is situated in a +low plain on the river, and consists of about eighty lodges, +of an octagon form, neatly covered with earth, placed as close +to each other as possible, and picketed round. The skin canoes, +mats, buckets, and articles of furniture found in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_99" id="Pg_99" title="Pg_99">[99]</a></span>lodges, induce us to suppose that it had been left in the spring. +We found three different sorts of squashes growing in the +village; we also killed an elk near it, and saw two wolves. +On leaving the village the river became shallow, and after +searching a long time for the main channel, which was concealed +among sandbars, we at last dragged the boat over one +of them rather than go back three miles for the deepest channel. +At fourteen and a half miles we stopped for the night +on a sandbar, opposite a creek on the north, called Otter +creek, twenty-two yards in width, and containing more water +than is common for creeks of that size. The sides of the +river during the day are variegated with high bluffs and low +timbered grounds on the banks: the river is very much obstructed +by sandbars. We saw geese, swan, brants and ducks +of different kinds on the sandbars, and on shore numbers of +the prairie hen; the magpie too is very common, but the gulls +and plover, which we saw in such numbers below, are now +quite rare.</p> + +<p>Sunday, October 7. There was frost again last evening, +and this morning was cloudy and attended with rain. At +two miles we came to the mouth of a river; called by the +Ricaras, Sawawkawna, or Pork river; the party who examined +it for about three miles up, say that its current is gentle, +and that it does not seem to throw out much sand. Its +sources are in the first range of the Black mountains, and +though it has now only water of twenty yards width, yet when +full it occupies ninety. Just below the mouth is another +village or wintering camp of the Ricaras, composed of +about sixty lodges, built in the same form as those passed +yesterday, with willow and straw mats, baskets and buffaloe-skin +canoes remaining entire in the camp. We proceeded +under a gentle breeze from the southwest: at ten o'clock +we saw two Indians on the north side, who told us they were +a part of the lodge of Tartongawaka, or Buffaloe Medicine, +the Teton chief whom we had seen on the twenty-fifth, that +they were on the way to the Ricaras, and begged us for something +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_100" id="Pg_100" title="Pg_100">[100]</a></span>to eat, which we of course gave them. At seven and a +half miles is a willow island on the north, and another on +the same side five miles beyond it, in the middle of the river +between highlands on both sides. At eighteen and a half +miles is an island called Grouse island, on which are the walls +of an old village; the island has no timber, but is covered +with grass and wild rye, and owes its name to the number of +grouse that frequent it. We then went on till our journey +for the day was twenty-two miles: the country presented the +same appearance as usual. In the low timbered ground near +the mouth of the Sawawkawna, we saw the tracks of large +white bear, and on Grouse island killed a female blaireau, +and a deer of the black-tailed species, the largest we have +ever seen.</p> + +<p>Monday, October 8. We proceeded early with a cool +northwest wind, and at two and a half miles above Grouse +island, reached the mouth of a creek on the south, then a +small willow island, which divides the current equally; and +at four and a half miles came to a river on the southern side +where we halted. This river, which our meridian altitude +fixes at 45° 39' 5" north latitude, is called by the Ricaras +Wetawhoo; it rises in the Black mountains, and its bed which +flows at the mouth over a low soft slate stone, is one hundred +and twenty yards wide, but the water is now confined within +twenty yards, and is not very rapid, discharging mud with a +small proportion of sand: here as in every bend of the river, +we again observe the red berries resembling currants, +which we mentioned before. Two miles above the Wetawhoo, +and on the same side, is a small river called Maropa by the +Indians; it is twenty yards in width, but so dammed up by +mud that the stream creeps through a channel of not more +than an inch in diameter, and discharges no sand. One +mile further we reached an island close to the southern +shore, from which it is separated by a deep channel of sixty +yards. About half way a number of Ricara Indians came +out to see us. We stopped and took a Frenchman on board, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_101" id="Pg_101" title="Pg_101">[101]</a></span>who accompanied us past the island to our camp on the +north side of the river, which is at the distance of twelve +miles from that of yesterday. Captain Lewis then returned +with four of the party to see the village; it is situated in +the centre of the island, near the southern shore, under +the foot of some high, bald, uneven hills, and contains about +sixty lodges. The island itself is three miles long, and covered +with fields in which the Indians raise corn, beans, +and potatoes. Several Frenchmen living among these Indians +as interpreters, or traders, came back with captain +Lewis, and particularly a Mr. Gravelines, a man who has +acquired the language. On setting out we had a low prairie +covered with timber on the north, and on the south +highlands, but at the mouth of the Wetawhoo the southern +country changes, and a low timbered plain extends along the +south, while the north has a ridge of barren hills during the +rest of the day's course.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 9th. The wind was so cold and high last +night and during all the day, that we could not assemble the +Indians in council; but some of the party went to the village. +We received the visits of the three principal chiefs +with many others, to whom we gave some tobacco, and told +them that we would speak to them to-morrow. The names +of these chiefs were first, Kakawissassa or Lighting Crow; +second chief Pocasse or Hay; third chief Piaheto or Eagle's +Feather. Notwithstanding the high waves, two or three +squaws rowed to us in little canoes made of a single +buffaloe skin, stretched over a frame of boughs interwoven +like a basket, and with the most perfect composure. +The object which appeared to astonish the Indians most, +was captain Clark's servant York, a remarkable stout strong +negro. They had never seen a being of that colour, and +therefore flocked round him to examine the extraordinary +monster. By way of amusement he told them that he +had once been a wild animal, and caught and tamed by his +master, and to convince them, showed them feats of strength +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_102" id="Pg_102" title="Pg_102">[102]</a></span>which added to his looks made him more terrible than we +wished him to be. Opposite our camp is a small creek on +the south, which we distinguished by the name of the chief +Kakawissassa.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 10th. The weather was this day fine, and as +we were desirous of assembling the whole nation at once, we +despatched Mr. Gravelines, who with Mr. Tabeau another +French trader had breakfeasted with us, to invite the chiefs +of the two upper villages to a conference. They all assembled +at one o'clock, and after the usual ceremonies we addressed +them in the same way in which we had already spoken +to the Ottoes and Sioux: we then made or acknowledged +three chiefs, one for each of the three villages; giving to +each a flag, a medal, a red coat, a cocked hat and feather, +also some goods, paint and tobacco, which they divided +among themselves: after this the airgun was exhibited, very +much to their astonishment, nor were they less surprised +at the colour and manner of York. On our side we were +equally gratified at discovering that these Ricaras made use +of no spirituous liquors of any kind, the example of the traders +who bring it to them so far from tempting having in +fact disgusted them. Supposing that it was as agreeable to +them as to the other Indians, we had at first offered them +whiskey; but they refused it with this sensible remark, that +they were surprised that their father should present to them +a liquor which would make them fools. On another occasion +they observed to Mr. Tabeau, that no man could be +their friend who tried to lead them into such follies. The +council being over they retired to consult on their answer, +and the next morning,</p> + +<p>Thursday, 11th, at eleven o'clock we again met in council +at our camp. The grand chief made a short speech of +thanks for the advice we had given, and promised to follow +it; adding that the door was now open and no one dare shut +it, and that we might depart whenever we pleased, alluding +to the treatment we had received from the Sioux: they also +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_103" id="Pg_103" title="Pg_103">[103]</a></span>brought us some corn, beans, and dried squashes, and in return +we gave them a steel mill with which they were much +pleased. At one o'clock we left our camp with the grand +chief and his nephew on board, and at about two miles anchored +below a creek on the south, separating the second +and third village of the Ricaras, which are about half a mile +distant from each other. We visited both the villages, and +sat conversing with the chiefs for some time, during which +they presented us with a bread made of corn and beans, also +corn and beans boiled, and a large rich bean which they +take from the mice of the prairie, who discover and collect +it. These two villages are placed near each other in a high +smooth prairie; a fine situation, except that having no wood +the inhabitants are obliged to go for it across the river to a +timbered lowland opposite to them. We told them that we +would speak to them in the morning at their villages separately.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 12th. Accordingly after breakfast we went +on shore to the house of the chief of the second village +named Lassel, where we found his chiefs and warriors. They +made us a present of about seven bushels of corn, a pair of leggings, +a twist of their tobacco, and the seeds of two different +species of tobacco. The chief then delivered a speech expressive +of his gratitude for the presents and the good counsels +which we had given him; his intention of visiting his great +father but for fear of the Sioux; and requested us to take +one of the Ricara chiefs up to the Mandans and negociate +a peace between the two nations. To this we replied in a +suitable way, and then repaired to the third village. Here +we were addressed by the chief in nearly the same terms as +before, and entertained with a present of ten bushels of +corn, some beans, dried pumpkins, and squashes. After we +had answered and explained the magnitude and power of +the United States, the three chiefs came with us to the boat. +We gave them some sugar, a little salt, and a sunglass. +Two of them then left us, and the chief of the third, by name +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_104" id="Pg_104" title="Pg_104">[104]</a></span>Ahketahnasha or Chief of the Town, accompanied us to the +Mandans. At two o'clock we left the Indians, who crowded +to the shore to take leave of us, and after making seven +and a half miles landed on the north side, and had a clear, +cool, pleasant evening.</p> + +<p>The three villages which we have just left, are the residence +of a nation called the Ricaras. They were originally +colonies of Pawnees, who established themselves on +the Missouri, below the Chayenne, where the traders still +remember that twenty years ago they occupied a number +of villages. From that situation a part of the Ricaras emigrated +to the neighbourhood of the Mandans, with whom they +were then in alliance. The rest of the nation continued +near the Chayenne till the year 1797, in the course of +which, distressed by their wars with the Sioux, they joined +their countrymen near the Mandans. Soon after a new war +arose between the Ricaras and the Mandans, in consequence +of which the former came down the river to their +present position. In this migration those who had first +gone to the Mandans kept together, and now live in the two +lower villages, which may thence be considered as the Ricaras +proper. The third village was composed of such remnants +of the villages as had survived the wars, and as these +were nine in number a difference of pronunciation and some +difference of language may be observed between them and +the Ricaras proper, who do not understand all the words of +these wanderers. The villages are within the distance of +four miles of each other, the two lower ones consisting of +between one hundred and fifty and two hundred men each, +the third of three hundred. The Ricaras are tall and well +proportioned, the women handsome and lively, and as among +other savages to them falls all the drudgery of the field and +the labours of procuring subsistence, except that of hunting: +both sexes are poor, but kind and generous, and although +they receive with thankfulness what is given to them, do not +beg as the Sioux did, though this praise should be qualified +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_105" id="Pg_105" title="Pg_105">[105]</a></span>by mentioning that an axe was stolen last night from our +cooks. The dress of the men is a simple pair of moccasins, +legings, and a cloth round the middle, over which a buffaloe +robe is occasionally thrown, with their hair, arms and ears +decorated with different ornaments. The women wear moccasins, +legings, a long shirt made of goats' skins, generally +white and fringed, which is tied round the waist; to those +they add, like the men, a buffaloe robe without the hair, in +summer. These women are handsomer than the Sioux; +both of them are however, disposed to be amorous, and our +men found no difficulty in procuring companions for the +night by means of the interpreters. These interviews were +chiefly clandestine, and were of course to be kept a secret +from the husband or relations. The point of honour indeed, +is completely reversed among the Ricaras; that the wife or +the sister should submit to a stranger's embraces without +the consent of her husband or brother, is a cause of great +disgrace and offence, especially as for many purposes of +civility or gratitude the husband and brother will themselves +present to a stranger these females, and be gratified by +attentions to them. The Sioux had offered us squaws, but +while we remained there having declined, they followed us +with offers of females for two days. The Ricaras had been +equally accommodating; we had equally withstood their +temptation; but such was their desire to oblige that two +very handsome young squaws were sent on board this evening, +and persecuted us with civilities. The black man York +participated largely in these favours; for instead of inspiring +any prejudice, his colour seemed to procure him additional +advantages from the Indians, who desired to preserve +among them some memorial of this wonderful stranger. +Among other instances of attention, a Ricara invited him +into his house and presenting his wife to him, retired to the +outside of the door: while there one of York's comrades who +was looking for him came to the door, but the gallant husband +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_106" id="Pg_106" title="Pg_106">[106]</a></span>would permit no interruption before a reasonable time +had elapsed.</p> + +<p>The Ricara lodges are in a circular or octagonal form, +and generally about thirty or forty feet in diameter: they +are made by placing forked posts about six feet high round +the circumference of the circle; these are joined by poles +from one fork to another, which are supported also by other +forked poles slanting from the ground: in the centre of the +lodge are placed four higher forks, about fifteen feet in +length, connected together by beams; from these to the lower +poles the rafters of the roof are extended so as to leave a +vacancy in the middle for the smoke: the frame of the +building is then covered with willow branches, with which +is interwoven grass, and over this mud or clay: the aperture +for the door is about four feet wide, and before it is a +sort of entry about ten feet from the lodge. They are very +warm and compact.</p> + +<p>They cultivate maize or Indian corn, beans, pumpkins, +watermelons, squashes, and a species of tobacco peculiar to +themselves.</p> + +<p>Their commerce is chiefly with the traders who supply +them with goods in return for peltries, which they procure +not only by their own hunting, but in exchange for corn +from their less civilized neighbours. The object chiefly in +demand seemed to be red paint, but they would give any +thing they had to spare for the most trifling article. One +of the men to-day gave an Indian a hook made out of a pin, +and he gave him in return a pair of moccasins.</p> + +<p>They express a disposition to keep at peace with all nations, +but they are well armed with fusils, and being much +under the influence of the Sioux, who exchanged the goods +which they get from the British for Ricara corn, their +minds are sometimes poisoned and they cannot be always +depended on. At the present moment they are at war with +the Mandans. We are informed by Mr. Gravelines, who had +passed through that country, that the Yankton or Jacques +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_107" id="Pg_107" title="Pg_107">[107]</a></span>river rises about forty miles to the east or northeast of +this place, the Chayenne branch of the Red river about +twenty miles further, passing the Sioux, and the St. Peter's +about eighty.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 13th. In the morning our visitors left us, except +the brother of the chief who accompanies us and one of +the squaws. We passed at an early hour a camp of Sioux on the +north bank, who merely looked at us without saying a word, +and from the character of the tribe we did not solicit a conversation. +At ten and a half miles we reached the mouth +of a creek on the north, which takes its rise from some +ponds a short distance to the northeast: to this stream we +gave the name of Stoneidol creek, for after passing a willow +and sand island just above its mouth, we discovered that a +few miles back from the Missouri there are two stones resembling +human figures, and a third like a dog; all which +are objects of great veneration among the Ricaras. Their +history would adorn the metamorphoses of Ovid. A young +man was deeply enamoured with a girl whose parents refused +their consent to the marriage. The youth went out into the +fields to mourn his misfortunes; a sympathy of feeling led the +lady to the same spot, and the faithful dog would not cease to +follow his master. After wandering together and having nothing +but grapes to subsist on, they were at last converted +into stone, which beginning at the feet gradually invaded the +nobler parts leaving nothing unchanged but a bunch of grapes +which the female holds in her hands to this day. Whenever +the Ricaras pass these sacred stones, they stop to make +some offering of dress to propitiate these deities. Such is +the account given by the Ricara chief which we had no mode +of examining, except that we found one part of the story +very agreeably confirmed; for on the river near where the +event is said to have occurred, we found a greater abundance +of fine grapes than we had yet seen. Above this is a +small creek four and a half miles from Stoneidol creek, +which is fifteen yards wide, comes in from the south, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_108" id="Pg_108" title="Pg_108">[108]</a></span>received from us the name of Pocasse or Hay creek, in honour +of the chief of the second village. Above the Ricara +island, the Missouri becomes narrow and deeper, the sandbars +being generally confined to the points; the current too +is much more gentle; the timber on the lowlands is also in +much greater quantities, though the high grounds are still +naked. We proceeded on under a fine breeze from the +southeast, and after making eighteen miles encamped on +the north near a timbered low plain, after which we had +some rain and the evening was cold. The hunters killed +one deer only.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 14th. We set out in the rain which continued +during the day. At five miles we came to a creek on the +south, about fifteen yards wide, and named by us Piaheto or +Eagle's Feather, in honour of the third chief of the Ricaras. +After dinner we stopped on a sandbar, and executed +the sentence of a court martial which inflicted corporal +punishment on one of the soldiers. This operation affected +the Indian chief very sensibly, for he cried aloud during the +punishment: we explained the offence and the reasons of it. +He acknowledged that examples were necessary, and that +he himself had given them by punishing with death; but his +nation never whipped even children from their birth. After +this we continued with the wind from the northeast, and +at the distance of twelve miles, encamped in a cove of the +southern bank. Immediately opposite our camp on the +north side are the ruins of an ancient fortification, the greater +part of which is washed into the river: nor could we distinguish +more than that the walls were eight or ten feet +high. The evening is wet and disagreeable, and the river +which is somewhat wider than yesterday, continues to have +an unusual quantity of timber. The country was level on +both sides in the morning, but afterwards we passed some +black bluffs on the south.</p> + +<p>Monday, 15th. We stopped at three miles on the north +a little above a camp of Ricaras who are hunting, where +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_109" id="Pg_109" title="Pg_109">[109]</a></span>we were visited by about thirty Indians. They came over +in their skin canoes, bringing us meat, for which we returned +them beads and fishhooks. About a mile higher we found +another encampment of Ricaras on the south, consisting of +eight lodges: here we again ate and exchanged a few presents. +As we went we discerned numbers of other Indians +on both sides of the river; and at about nine miles we came +to a creek on the south, where we saw many high hills resembling +a house with a slanting roof; and a little below the +creek an old village of the Sharha or Chayenne Indians. +The morning had been cloudy, but the evening became +pleasant, the wind from the northeast, and at sunset we +halted, after coming ten miles over several sandbars and +points, above a camp of ten Ricara lodges on the north side. +We visited their camp, and smoked and eat with several +of them; they all appeared kind and pleased with our attentions, +and the fair sex received our men with more than +hospitality. York was here again an object of astonishment; +the children would follow him constantly, and if he +chanced to turn towards them, run with great terror. The +country of to-day is generally low and covered with timber +on both sides, though in the morning we passed some barren +hills on the south.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 16th. At this camp the squaw who accompanied +the chief left us; two others were very anxious to go on +with us. Just above our camp we passed a circular work +or fort where the Sharha or Chayennes formerly lived: and +a short distance beyond, a creek which we called Chayenne +creek. At two miles is a willow island with a large +sandbar on both sides above it, and a creek, both on the +south, which we called Sohaweh, the Ricara name for +girl; and two miles above a second creek, to which we gave +the name of Chapawt, which means woman in the same +language. Three miles further is an island situated in a +bend to the north, about a mile and a half long, and covered +with cottonwood. At the lower end of this island +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_110" id="Pg_110" title="Pg_110">[110]</a></span>comes in a small creek from the north, called Keetooshsahawna +or Place of Beaver. At the upper extremity of the +island a river empties itself from the north: it is called +Warreconne, or Elk Shed their Horns, and is about thirty-five +yards wide: the island itself is named Carp island by +Evans, a former traveller. As we proceeded there were +great numbers of goats on the banks of the river, and we +soon after saw large flocks of them in the water: they had +been gradually driven into the river by the Indians who now +lined the shore so as to prevent their escape, and were firing +on them, while sometimes boys went into the river and killed +them with sticks: they seemed to be very successful, for +we counted fifty-eight which they had killed. We ourselves +killed some, and then passing the lodges to which these Indians +belonged, encamped at the distance of half a mile on +the south, having made fourteen and a half miles. We +were soon visited by numbers of these Ricaras, who crossed +the river hallooing and singing: two of them then returned +for some goats' flesh and buffaloe meat dried and +fresh, with which they made a feast that lasted till late at +night, and caused much music and merriment.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 17th. The weather was pleasant: we passed a +low ground covered with small timber on the south, and barren +hills on the north which come close to the river; the +wind from the northwest then become so strong that we +could not move after ten o'clock, until late in the afternoon, +when we were forced to use the towline, and we therefore +made only six miles. We all went out hunting and examining +the country. The goats, of which we see large flocks coming +to the north bank of the river, spend the summer, says Mr. +Gravelines, in the plains east of the Missouri, and at the present +season are returning to the Black mountains, where they +subsist on leaves and shrubbery during the winter, and resume +their migrations in the spring. We also saw buffaloe, elk, and +deer, and a number of snakes; a beaver house too was seen, +and we caught a whippoorwill of a small and uncommon +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_111" id="Pg_111" title="Pg_111">[111]</a></span>kind: the leaves are fast falling; the river wider than usual +and full of sandbars: and on the sides of the hills are large +stones, and some rock of a brownish colour in the southern +bend below us. Our latitude by observation was 46° 23' 57".</p> + +<p>Thursday 18. After three miles we reached the mouth of +Le Boulet or Cannonball river: this stream rises in the Black +mountains, and falls into the Missouri on the south; its channel +is about one hundred and forty yards wide, though the +water is now confined within forty, and its name is derived +from the numbers of perfectly round large stones on the +shore and in the bluffs just above. We here met with two +Frenchmen in the employ of Mr. Gravelines, who had been +robbed by the Mandans of their traps, furs, and other articles, +and were descending the river in a periogue, but they turned +back with us in expectation of obtaining redress through +our means. At eight miles is a creek on the north, about +twenty-eight yards wide, rising in the northeast, and called +Chewah or Fish river; one mile above this is another creek +on the south: we encamped on a sandbar to the south, at the +distance of thirteen miles, all of which we had made with oars +and poles. Great numbers of goats are crossing the river and +directing their course to the westward; we also saw a herd +of buffaloe and of elk; a pelican too was killed, and six fallow +deer, having found, as the Ricaras informed us, that +there are none of the black-tail species as high up as this +place. The country is in general level and fine, with broken +short high grounds, low timbered mounds on the river, +and a rugged range of hills at a distance.</p> + +<p>Friday 19. We set sail with a fine morning, and a southeast +wind, and at two and a half miles passed a creek on the +north side: at eleven and a half miles we came to a lake or +large pond on the same side, in which were some swans. On +both banks of the Missouri are low grounds which have much +more timber than lower down the river: the hills are at one +or two miles distance from the banks, and the streams which +rise in them are brackish, and the mineral salts appear on +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_112" id="Pg_112" title="Pg_112">[112]</a></span>the sides of the hills and edges of the runs. In walking along +the shore we counted fifty-two herds of buffaloe, and three +of elk, at a single view. Besides these we also observed elk, +deer, pelicans, and wolves. After seventeen and a half miles +we encamped on the north, opposite to the uppermost of a +number of round hills, forming a cone at the top, one being +about ninety, another sixty feet in height, and some of +less elevation. Our chief tells us that the calumet bird +lives in the holes formed by the filtration of the water +from the top of these hills through the sides. Near to one +of these moles, on a point of a hill ninety feet above the +plain, are the remains of an old village which is high, strong, +and has been fortified; this our chief tells us is the remains +of one of the Mandan villages, and are the first ruins which +we have seen of that nation in ascending the Missouri: opposite +to our camp is a deep bend to the south, at the extremity +of which is a pond.</p> + +<p>Saturday 30. We proceeded early with a southeast wind, +which continued high all day, and came to a creek on the north +at two miles distance, twenty yards wide. At eight miles we +reached the lower point of an island in the middle of the river, +though there is no current on the south. This island is covered +with willows and extends about two miles, there being +a small creek coming in from the south at its lower extremity. +After making twelve miles we encamped on the south, +at the upper part of a bluff containing stone-coal of an inferior +quality; immediately below this bluff and on the declivity +of a hill, are the remains of a village covering six or +eight acres, formerly occupied by the Mandans, who, says +our Ricara chief, once lived in a number of villages on each +side of the river, till the Sioux forced them forty miles +higher; whence after a few years residence, they moved to +their present position. The country through, which we passed +has wider bottoms and more timber than those we have +been accustomed to see, the hills rising at a distance and by +gradual ascents. We have seen great numbers of elk, deer, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_113" id="Pg_113" title="Pg_113">[113]</a></span>goats, and buffaloe, and the usual attendants of these last, +the wolves, who follow their movements and feed upon those +who die by accident, or who are too poor to keep pace with +the herd; we also wounded a white bear, and saw some fresh +tracks of those animals which are twice as large as the track +of a man.</p> + +<p>Sunday 21. Last night the weather was cold, the wind +high from the northeast, and the rain which fell froze on +the ground. At daylight it began to snow, and continued +till the afternoon, when it remained cloudy and the ground +was covered with snow. We however, set out early, and +just above our camp came to a creek on the south, called +Chisshetaw, about thirty yards wide and with a considerable +quantity of water. Our Ricara chief tells us, that at +some distance up this river is situated a large rock which +is held in great veneration, and visited by parties who go +to consult it as to their own or their nations' destinies, all +of which they discern in some sort of figures or paintings +with which it is covered. About two miles off from the mouth +of the river the party on shore saw another of the objects of +Ricara superstition: it is a large oak tree, standing alone +in the open prairie, and as it alone has withstood the fire +which has consumed every thing around, the Indians naturally +ascribe to it extraordinary powers. One of their ceremonies +is to make a hole in the skin of their necks through +which a string is passed and the other end tied to the body +of the tree; and after remaining in this way for some time +they think they become braver. At two miles a from our encampment +we came to the ruins of a second Mandan village, +which was in existence at the same time with that just +mentioned. It is situated on the north at the foot of a hill in +a beautiful and extensive plain, which is now covered with +herds of buffaloe: nearly opposite are remains of a third village +on the south of the Missouri; and there is another also about +two miles further on the north, a little off the river. At the distance +of seven miles we encamped on the south, and spent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_114" id="Pg_114" title="Pg_114">[114]</a></span>a cold night. We procured to-day a buffaloe and an otter +only. The river is wide and the sandbars numerous, and a +low island near our encampment.</p> + +<p>Monday 22. In the morning we passed an old Mandan +village on the south, near our camp; at four miles another +on the same side. About seven o'clock we came to at a +camp of eleven Sioux of the Teton tribe, who are almost +perfectly naked, having only a piece of skin or cloth round +the middle, though we are suffering from the cold. From +their appearance, which is warlike, and from their giving +two different accounts of themselves, we believe that they +are either going to or returning from the Mandans, to +which nations the Sioux frequently make excursions to steal +horses. As their conduct displeased as, we gave them nothing. +At six we reached an island about one mile in length, +at the head of which is a Mandan village on the north in +ruins, and two miles beyond a bad sandbar. At eight miles +are remains of another Mandan village on the south; and at +twelve miles encamped on the south. The hunters brought +in a buffaloe bull, and mentioned that of about three hundred +which they had seen, there was not a single female. +The beaver is here in plenty, and the two Frenchmen who +are returning with us catch several every night.</p> + +<p>These villages which are nine in number are scattered +along each side of the river within a space of twenty miles; +almost all that remains of them is the wall which surrounded +them, the fallen heaps of earth which covered the houses, +and occasionally human skulls and the teeth and bones of +men, and different animals, which are scattered on the surface +of the ground.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 23. The weather was cloudy and we had some +snow; we soon arrived at five lodges where the two Frenchmen +had been robbed, but the Indians had left it lately as +we found the fires still burning. The country consists as +usual of timbered low grounds, with grapes, rushes, and +great quantities of a small red acid fruit, known among the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_115" id="Pg_115" title="Pg_115">[115]</a></span>Indians by a name signifying rabbitberries, and called by +the French graisse de buffle or buffaloe fat. The river too, +is obstructed by many sandbars. At twelve miles we passed +an old village on the north, which was the former residence +of the Ahnahaways who now live between the Mandans +and Minnetarees. After making thirteen miles we encamped +on the south.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 24. The day was again dark and it snowed +a little in the morning. At three miles we came to a point +on the south, where the river by forcing a channel across +a former bend has formed a large island on the north. On +this island we found one of the grand chiefs of the Mandans, +who with five lodges was on a hunting excursion. He met +his enemy the Ricara chief, with great ceremony and apparent +cordiality, and smoked with him. After visiting his +lodges, the grand chief and his brother came on board our +boat for a short time; we then proceeded and encamped on +the north, at seven miles from our last night's station and below +the old village of the Mandans and Ricaras. Here four +Mandans came down from a camp above, and our Ricara chief +returned with them to their camp, from which we auger favourably +of their pacific views towards each other. The +land is low and beautiful, and covered with oak and cottonwood, +but has been too recently hunted to afford much game.</p> + +<p>25th. The morning was cold and the wind gentle from +the southeast: at three miles we passed a handsome high +prairie on the south, and on an eminence about forty feet +above the water and extending back for several miles in a +beautiful plain, was situated an old village of the Mandan +nation which has been deserted for many years. A short +distance above it, on the continuation of the same rising +ground are two old villages of Ricaras, one on the top of the +hill, the other in the level plain, which have been deserted +only five years ago. Above these villages is an extensive +low ground for several miles, in which are situated, at +three or four miles from the Ricara villages, three old villages +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_116" id="Pg_116" title="Pg_116">[116]</a></span>of Mandans near together. Here the Mandans lived +when the Ricaras came to them for protection, and from +this they moved to their present situation above. In the +low ground the squaws raised their corn, and the timber, of +which there was little near the villages, was supplied +from the opposite side of the river, where it was and still is +abundant.</p> + +<p>As we proceeded several parties of Mandans both on +foot and horseback came along the river to view us, and +were very desirous that we should land and talk to them: +this we could not do on account of the sandbreaks on the +shore, but we sent our Ricara chief to them in a periogue. +The wind too having shifted to the southwest and being very +high it required all our precautions on board, for the river +was full of sandbars which made it very difficult to find the +channel. We got aground several times, and passed a very +bad point of rocks, after which we encamped on a sandpoint +to the north, above a handsome plain covered with timber, +and opposite to a high hill on the south side at the distance +of eleven miles. Here we were joined by our Ricara chief, +who brought an Indian to the camp where he remained all +night.</p> + +<p>26th. We set out early with a southwest wind, and after +putting the Ricara chief on shore to join the Mandans who +were in great numbers along it, we proceeded to the camp +of the grand chiefs four miles distant. Here we met a Mr. +M‘Cracken one of the northwest or Hudson Bay company, +who arrived with another person about nine days ago to trade +for horses and buffaloe robes. Two of the chiefs came on +board with some of their household furniture, such as +earthern pots and a little corn and went on with us; the rest +of the Indians following on shore. At one mile beyond the +camp we passed a small creek, and at three more a bluff of +coal of an inferior quality on the south. After making eleven +miles we reached an old field where the Mandans had cultivated +grain last summer, and encamped for the night on the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_117" id="Pg_117" title="Pg_117">[117]</a></span>south side, about half a mile below the first village of the +Mandans. In the morning we had a willow low ground on +the south and highland on the north, which occasionally +varied in the course of the day. There is but little wood +on this part of the river, which is here subdivided into many +channels and obstructed by sandbars. As soon as we arrived +a crowd of men, women, and children came down to see us. +Captain Lewis returned with the principal chiefs to the village, +while the others remained with us during the evening; +the object which seemed to surprise them most, was a cornmill +fixed to the boat which we had occasion to use, and delighted +them by the ease with which it reduced the grain +to powder. Among others who visited us was the son of +the grand chief of the Mandans, who had his two little +fingers cut off at the second joints. On inquiring into this +accident, we found that it was customary to express grief +for the death of relations by some corporeal suffering, and +that the usual mode was to lose two joints of the little fingers, +or sometimes the other fingers. The wind blew very +cold in the evening from the southwest. Two of the party +are affected with rheumatic complaints.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_118" id="Pg_118" title="Pg_118">[118]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Council held with the Mandans—A prairie on fire, and a singular instance of +preservation—Peace established between the Mandans and Ricaras—The party +encamp for the winter—Indian mode of catching goats—Beautiful appearance +of northern lights—Friendly character of the Indians—Some account of +the Mandans—The Ahnahaways and the Minnetarees—The party acquire +the confidence of the Mandans by taking part in their controversy with the +Sioux—Religion of the Mandans, and their singular conception of the term +medicine—Their tradition—The sufferings of the party from the severity +of the season—Indian game of billiards described—Character of the Missouri, +of the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, &c.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>Saturday, October 27. At an early hour we proceeded +and anchored off the village. Captain Clarke went on shore, +and after smoking a pipe with the chiefs, was desired to remain +and eat with them. He declined on account of his +being unwell; but his refusal gave great offence to the Indians, +who considered it disrespectful not to eat when invited, +till the cause was explained to their satisfaction. We sent +them some tobacco, and then proceeded to the second village +on the north, passing by a bank containing coal, and a +second village, and encamped at four miles on the north, +opposite to a village of Ahnahaways. We here met with a +Frenchman, named Jesseaume, who lives among the Indians +with his wife and children, and who we take as an interpreter. +The Indians had flocked to the bank to see us as we passed, +and they visited in great numbers the camp, where some of +them remained all night. We sent in the evening three +young Indians with a present of tobacco for the chiefs of the +three upper villages, inviting them to come down in the +morning to a council with us. Accordingly the next day,</p> + +<p>Sunday, October 28, we were joined by many of the +Minnetarees and Ahnahaways from above, but the wind was +so violent from the southwest that the chiefs of the lower +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_119" id="Pg_119" title="Pg_119">[119]</a></span>villages could not come up, and the council was deferred +till to-morrow. In the mean while we entertained our visitors +by showing them what was new to them in the boat; all +which, as well our black servant, they called Great Medicine, +the meaning of which we afterwards learnt. We also +consulted the grand chief of the Mandans, Black Cat, and +Mr. Jesseaume, as to the names, characters, &c. of the +chiefs with whom we are to hold the council. In the course +of the day we received several presents from the women, +consisting of corn, boiled hominy, and garden stuffs: in our +turn we gratified the wife of the great chief with a gift of +a glazed earthen jar. Our hunter brought us two beaver. +In the afternoon we sent the Minnetaree chiefs to smoke +for us with the great chief of the Mandans, and told them +we would speak in the morning.</p> + +<p>Finding that we shall be obliged to pass the winter at +this place, we went up the river about one and a half miles +to-day, with a view of finding a convenient spot for a fort, +but the timber was too scarce and small for our purposes.</p> + +<p>Monday, October 29. The morning was fine and we prepared +our presents and speech for the council. After breakfast +we were visited by an old chief of the Ahnahaways, who +finding himself growing old and weak had transferred his +power to his son, who is now at war against the Shoshonees. +At ten o'clock the chiefs were all assembled under an +awning of our sails, stretched so as to exclude the wind +which had become high; that the impression might be the +more forcible, the men were all paraded, and the council +opened by a discharge from the swivel of the boat. We then +delivered a speech, which like those we had already made +intermingled advice with assurances of friendship and trade: +while we were speaking the old Ahnahaway chief grew very +restless, and observed that he could not wait long as his +camp was exposed to the hostilities of the Shoshonees; he +was instantly rebuked with great dignity by one of the chiefs +for this violation of decorum at such a moment, and remained +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_120" id="Pg_120" title="Pg_120">[120]</a></span>quiet during the rest of the council. Towards the end +of our speech we introduced the subject of our Ricara chief, +with whom we recommended a firm peace: to this they seemed +well disposed, and all smoked with him very amicably. +We all mentioned the goods which had been taken from the +Frenchmen, and expressed a wish that they should he restored. +This being over, we proceeded to distribute the +presents with great ceremony: one chief of each town was +acknowledged by a gift of a flag, a medal with the likeness +of the president of the United States, a uniform coat, hat +and feather: to the second chiefs we gave a medal representing +some domestic animals, and a loom for weaving; to the +third chiefs medals with the impressions of a farmer sowing +grain. A variety of other presents were distributed, but +none seemed to give them more satisfaction than an iron corn +mill which we gave to the Mandans.</p> + +<p>The chiefs who were made to-day are: Shahaka or Big +White, a first chief, and Kagohami or Little Raven, a second +chief of the lower village of the Mandans, called Matootonha: +the other chiefs of an inferior quality who were +recommended were, 1. Ohheenaw, or Big Man, a Chayenne +taken prisoner by the Mandans who adopted him, +and he now enjoys great consideration among the tribe. +2. Shotahawrora, or Coal, of the second Mandan village +which is called Rooptahee. We made Poscopsahe, or Black +Cat, the first chief of the village, and the grand chief of the +whole Mandan nation: his second chief is Kagonomokshe, +or Raven man Chief; inferior chiefs of this village were, +Tawnuheo, and Bellahsara, of which we did not learn the +translation.</p> + +<p>In the third village which is called Mahawha, and where +the Arwacahwas reside, we made one first chief, Tetuckopinreha, +or White Buffaloe robe unfolded, and recognized two +of an inferior order: Minnissurraree, or Neighing Horse, +and Locongotiha, or Old woman at a distance.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_121" id="Pg_121" title="Pg_121">[121]</a></span>Of the fourth village where the Minnetarees live, and +which is called Metaharta, we made a first chief, Ompsehara, +or Black Moccasin: a second chief, Ohhaw, or Little +Fox. Other distinguished chiefs of this village were, Mahnotah, +or Big Thief, a man whom we did not see as he is out +fighting, and was killed soon after; and Mahserassa, or Tail +of the Calumet Bird. In the fifth village we made a first +chief Eapanopa, or Red Shield; a second chief Wankerassa, +or Two Tailed Calumet Bird, both young chiefs; other +persons of distinction are, Shahakohopinnee, or Little Wolf's +Medicine; Ahrattanamoekshe, or Wolfman chief, who is now +at war, and is the son of the old chief we have mentioned, whose +name is Caltahcota, or Cherry on a Bush.</p> + +<p>The presents intended for the grand chief of the Minnetarees, +who was not at the council, were sent to him by +the old chief Caltahcota; and we delivered to a young chief +those intended for the chief of the lower village. The council +was concluded by a shot from our swivel, and after firing +the airgun for their amusement, they retired to deliberate +on the answer which they are to give to-morrow.</p> + +<p>In the evening the prairie took fire, either by accident +or design, and burned with great fury, the whole plain being +enveloped in flames: so rapid was its progress that a man +and a woman were burnt to death before they could reach a +place of safety; another man with his wife and child were +much burnt, and several other persons narrowly escaped +destruction. Among the rest a boy of the half white breed +escaped unhurt in the midst of the flames; his safety was +ascribed to the great medicine spirit, who had preserved him +on account of his being white. But a much more natural +cause was the presence of mind of his mother, who seeing no +hopes of carrying off her son, threw him on the ground, and +covering him with the fresh hide of a buffaloe, escaped herself +from the flames; as soon as the fire had passed, she returned +and found him untouched, the skin having prevented, the +flame from reaching the grass on which he lay.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_122" id="Pg_122" title="Pg_122">[122]</a></span>Tuesday 30. We were this morning visited by two persons +from the lower village, one the Big White the chief of +the village, the other the Chayenne called the Big Man; +they had been hunting, and did not return yesterday early +enough to attend the council. At their request we repeated +part of our speech of yesterday, and put the medal round +the neck of the chief. Captain Clarke took a periogue and +went up the river in search of a good wintering place, and +returned after going seven miles to the lower point of an +island on the north side, about one mile in length; he found +the banks on the north side high, with coal occasionally, and +the country fine on all sides; but the want of wood and the +scarcity of game up the river, induced us to decide on fixing +ourselves lower down during the winter. In the evening +our men danced among themselves to the great amusement +of the Indians.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 31. A second chief arrived this morning with +an invitation from the grand chief of the Mandans, to come +to his village where he wished to present some corn to us +and to speak with us. Captain Clarke walked down to his +village; he was first seated with great ceremony on a robe +by the side of the chief, who then threw over his shoulders +another robe handsomely ornamented. The pipe was then +smoked with several of the old men who were seated around +the chief; after some time he began his discourse, by observing +that he believed what we had told him, and that they should +soon enjoy peace, which would gratify him as well as his +people, because they could then hunt without fear of being +attacked, and the women might work in the fields without +looking every moment for the enemy, and at night put off +their moccasins, a phrase by which is conveyed the idea of +security when the women could undress at night without +fear of attack. As to the Ricaras, he continued, in order to +show you that we wish peace with all men, that chief, pointing +to his second chief, will go with some warriors back to +the Ricaras with their chief now here and smoke with that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_123" id="Pg_123" title="Pg_123">[123]</a></span>nation. When we heard of your coming all the nations +around returned from their hunting to see you, in hopes of +receiving large presents; all are disappointed and some discontented; +for his part he was not much so, though his village +was. He added that he would go and see his great father +the president. Two of the steel traps stolen from the +Frenchmen were then laid before captain Clarke, and the +women brought about twelve bushels of corn. After the chief +had finished, captain Clarke made an answer to the speech +and then returned to the boat, where he found the chief of +the third village and Kagohami (the Little Raven) who +smoked and talked about an hour. After they left the boat +the grand chief of the Mandans came dressed in the clothes +we had given him, with his two children, and begged to see +the men dance, in which they willingly gratified him.</p> + +<p>Thursday, November 1st. Mr. M‘Cracken, the trader +whom we found here, set out to-day on his return to the +British fort and factory on the Assiniboin river, about one +hundred and fifty miles from this place. He took a letter +from captain Lewis to the northwest company, inclosing a +copy of the passport granted by the British minister in the +United States. At ten o'clock the chiefs of the lower village +arrived; they requested that we would call at their village +for some corn, that they were willing to make peace +with the Ricaras, that they had never provoked the war between +them, but as the Ricaras had killed some of their +chiefs, they had retaliated on them; that they had killed +them like birds, till they were tired of killing them, so that +they would send a chief and some warriors to smoke with +them. In the evening we dropped down to the lower village +where captain Lewis went on shore, and captain Clarke +proceeded to a point of wood on the north side.</p> + +<p>Friday, November 2. He therefore went up to the village +where eleven bushels of corn were presented to him. +In the meantime Captain Clarke went down with the boats +three miles, and having found a good position where there +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_124" id="Pg_124" title="Pg_124">[124]</a></span>was plenty of timber, encamped and began to fell trees to +build our huts. Our Ricara chief set out with one Mandan +chief and several Minnetaree and Mandan warriors; the wind +was from the southeast, and the weather being fine a crowd +of Indians came down to visit us.</p> + +<p>Saturday 3. We now began the building of our cabins, +and the Frenchmen who are to return to St. Louis are building +a periogue for the purpose. We sent six men in a periogue +to hunt down the river. We were also fortunate enough to +engage in our service a Canadian Frenchmen, who had been +with the Chayenne Indians on the Black mountains, and +last summer descended thence by the Little Missouri. Mr. +Jessaume our interpreter also came down with his squaw and +children to live at our camp. In the evening we received a +visit from Kagohami or Little Raven, whose wife accompanied +him, bringing about sixty weight of dried meat, a robe +and a pot of meal. We gave him in return a piece of tobacco, +to his wife an axe and a few small articles, and both of +them spent the night at our camp. Two beavers were caught +in traps this morning.</p> + +<p>Sunday 4. We continued our labours: the timber which +we employ is large and heavy, and chiefly consists of cottonwood +and elm with some ash of an inferior size. Great numbers +of the Indians pass our camp on their hunting excursions: +the day was clear and pleasant, but last night was very +cold and there was a white frost.</p> + +<p>Monday 5. The Indians are all out on their hunting parties: +a camp of Mandans caught within two days one hundred +goats a short distance below us: their mode of hunting +them is to form a large strong pen or fold, from which a +fence made of bushes gradually widens on each side: the animals +are surrounded by the hunters and gently driven towards +this pen, in which they imperceptibly find themselves +inclosed and are then at the mercy of the hunters. The +weather is cloudy and the wind moderate from the northwest. +Late at night we were awaked by the sergeant on +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_125" id="Pg_125" title="Pg_125">[125]</a></span>guard to see the beautiful phenomenon called the northern +light: along the northern sky was a large space occupied +by a light of a pale but brilliant white colour: which rising +from the horizon extended itself to nearly twenty degrees +above it. After glittering for some time its colours +would be overcast, and almost obscured, but again it would +burst out with renewed beauty; the uniform colour was pale +light, but its shapes were various and fantastic: at times +the sky was lined with light coloured streaks rising perpendicularly +from the horizon, and gradually expanding into a +body of light in which we could trace the floating columns +sometimes advancing, sometimes retreating and shaping +into infinite forms, the space in which they moved. It all +faded away before the morning. At daylight,</p> + +<p>Tuesday 6, the clouds to the north were darkening and +the wind rose high from the northwest at eight o'clock, and +continued cold during the day. Mr. Gravelines and four +others who came with us returned to the Ricaras in a small +periogue, we gave him directions to accompany some of the +Ricara chiefs to the seat of government in the spring.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 7. The day was temperate but cloudy and +foggy, and we were enabled to go on with our work with +much expedition.</p> + +<p>Thursday 8. The morning again cloudy; our huts advance +very well, and we are visited by numbers of Indians +who come to let their horses graze near us: in the day the +horses are let loose in quest of grass, in the night they are +collected and receive an armful of small boughs of the +cottonwood, which being very juicy, soft and brittle, form +nutritious and agreeable food: the frost this morning was +very severe, the weather during the day cloudy and the wind +from the northwest. We procured from an Indian a weasel +perfectly white except the extremity of the tail which was +black: great numbers of wild geese are passing to the south, +but their flight is too high for us to procure any of them.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_126" id="Pg_126" title="Pg_126">[126]</a></span>November 10. We had again a raw day, a northwest +wind, but rose early in hopes of finishing our works before +the extreme cold begins. A chief who is a half Pawnee +came to us and brought a present of half a buffaloe, in return +for which we gave him some small presents and a few +articles to his wife and son: he then crossed the river in +a buffaloe skin canoe; his wife took the boat on her back and +carried it to the village three miles off. Large flocks of geese +and brant, and also a few ducks are passing towards the south.</p> + +<p>Sunday 11. The weather is cold. We received the visit +of two squaws, prisoners from the Rock mountains, and purchased +by Chaboneau. The Mandans at this time are out +hunting the buffaloe.</p> + +<p>Monday 12. The last night had been cold and this morning +we had a very hard frost: the wind changeable during +the day, and some ice appears on the edges of the rivers; +swans too are passing to the south. The Big White came down +to us, having packed on the back of his squaw about one +hundred pounds of very fine meat: for which we gave him +as well as the squaw some presents, particularly an axe to +the woman with which she was very much pleased.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 13. We this morning unloaded the boat and +stowed away the contents in a storehouse which we have +built. At half past ten ice began to float down the river for +the first time: in the course of the morning we were visited +by the Black Cat, Poscapsahe, who brought an Assiniboin +chief and seven warriors to see us. This man, whose name +is Chechawk, is a chief of one out of three bands of Assiniboins +who wander over the plains between the Missouri and +Assiniboin during the summer, and in the winter carry the +spoils of their hunting to the traders on the Assiniboin +river, and occasionally come to this place: the whole three +bands consist of about eight hundred men. We gave him a +twist of tobacco to smoke with his people, and a gold cord +for himself: the Sioux also asked for whiskey which we refused +to give them. It snowed all day and the air was very cold.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_127" id="Pg_127" title="Pg_127">[127]</a></span>Wednesday 14. The river rose last night half an inch, +and is now filled with floating ice. This morning was cloudy +with some snow: about seventy lodges of Assiniboins and +some Knistenaux are at the Mandan village, and this being +the day of adoption and exchange of property between them +all, it is accompanied by a dance, which prevents our seeing +more than two Indians to-day: these Knistenaux are a band +of Chippeways whose language they speak; they live on the +Assiniboin and Saskashawan rivers, and are about two hundred +and forty men. We sent a man down on horseback to +see what had become of our hunters, and as we apprehend +a failure of provisions we have recourse to our pork this +evening. Two Frenchmen who had been below returned with +twenty beaver which they had caught in traps.</p> + +<p>Thursday 15. The morning again cloudy, and the ice +running thicker than yesterday, the wind variable. The +man came back with information that our hunters were +about thirty miles below, and we immediately sent an order +to them to make their way through the floating ice, to assist +them in which we sent some tin for the bow of the periogue +and a towrope. The ceremony of yesterday +seem to continue still, for we were not visited by a single +Indian. The swan are still passing to the south.</p> + +<p>Friday 16. We had a very hard white frost this morning, +the trees are all covered with ice, and the weather cloudy. +The men this day moved into the huts, although they +are not finished. In the evening some horses were sent down +to the woods near us in order to prevent their being stolen by +the Assiniboins, with whom some difficulty is now apprehended. +An Indian came down with four buffaloe robes +and some corn, which he offered for a pistol, but was refused.</p> + +<p>Saturday, November 17. Last night was very cold, and +the ice in the river to-day is thicker than hitherto. We are +totally occupied with our huts, but received visits from several +Indians.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_128" id="Pg_128" title="Pg_128">[128]</a></span>Sunday, November 18. To-day we had a cold windy morning; +the Black Cat came to see us, and occupied us for a long +time with questions on the usages of our country. He mentioned +that a council had been held yesterday to deliberate on the +state of their affairs. It seems that not long ago, a party of +Sioux fell in with some horses belonging to the Minnetarees, +and carried them off; but in their flight they were met by +some Assiniboins, who killed the Sioux and kept the horses: +a Frenchman too who had lived many years among the +Mandans, was lately killed on his route to the British factory +on the Assiniboin; some smaller differences existed between +the two nations, all of which being discussed, the council decided +that they would not resent the recent insults from the +Assiniboins and Knistenaux, until they had seen whether +we had deceived them or not in our promises of furnishing +them with arms and ammunition. They had been disappointed +in their hopes of receiving them from Mr. Evans and were +afraid that we too, like him, might tell them what was not +true. We advised them to continue at peace, that supplies +of every kind would no doubt arrive for them, but that time +was necessary to organize the trade. The fact is that the +Assiniboins treat the Mandans as the Sioux do the Ricaras; +by their vicinity to the British they get all the supplies, +which they withhold or give at pleasure to the remoter +Indians: the consequence is, that however badly treated, +the Mandans and Ricaras are very slow to retaliate lest they +<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'shold'.">should</ins> lose their trade altogether.</p> + +<p>Monday 19. The ice continues to float in the river, the +wind high from the northwest, and the weather cold. Our +hunters arrived from their excursion below, and bring a very +fine supply of thirty-two deer, eleven elk, and five buffaloe, +all of which was hung in a smokehouse.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 20. We this day moved into our huts which are +now completed. This place which we call Fort Mandan, is +situated in a point of low ground, on the north side of the +Missouri, covered with tall and heavy cottonwood. The +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_129" id="Pg_129" title="Pg_129">[129]</a></span>works consist of two rows of huts or sheds, forming an +angle where they joined each other; each row containing +four rooms, of fourteen feet square and seven feet high, +with plank <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'cieling'.">ceiling</ins>, and the roof slanting so as to form a loft +above the rooms, the highest part of which is eighteen feet +from the ground: the backs of the huts formed a wall of +that height, and opposite the angle the place of the wall was +supplied by picketing; in the area were two rooms for +stores and provisions. The latitude by observation is 47° +21' 47", and the computed distance from the mouth of the +Missouri sixteen hundred miles.</p> + +<p>In the course of the day several Indians came down to +partake of our fresh meat; among the rest, three chiefs of +the second Mandan village. They inform us that the Sioux +on the Missouri above the Chayenne river, threaten to attack +them this winter; that these Sioux are much irritated +at the Ricaras for having made peace through our means +with the Mandans, and have lately ill treated three Ricaras +who carried the pipe of peace to them, by beating them +and taking away their horses. We gave them assurances +that we would protect them from all their enemies.</p> + +<p>November 21st. The weather was this day fine: the +river clear of ice and rising a little: we are now settled in +our new winter habitation, and shall wait with much anxiety +the first return of spring to continue our journey.</p> + +<p>The villages near which we are established are five in +number, and are the residence of three distinct nations: the +Mandans, the Ahnahaways, and the Minnetarees. The history +of the Mandans, as we received it from our interpreters +and from the chiefs themselves, and as it is attested by +existing monuments, illustrates more than that of any other +nation the unsteady movements and the tottering fortunes +of the American nations. Within the recollection of living +witnesses, the Mandans were settled forty years ago in nine +villages, the ruins of which we passed about eighty miles +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_130" id="Pg_130" title="Pg_130">[130]</a></span>below, and situated seven on the west and two on the +east side of the Missouri. The two finding themselves +wasting away before the small-pox and the Sioux, united +into one village, and moved up the river opposite to the Ricaras. +The same causes reduced the remaining seven to +five villages, till at length they emigrated in a body to the +Ricara nation, where they formed themselves into two villages, +and joined those of their countrymen who had gone +before them. In their new residence they were still insecure, +and at length the three villages ascended the Missouri to +their present position. The two who had emigrated together +still settled in the two villages on the northwest side of the +Missouri, while the single village took a position on the +southeast side. In this situation they were found by those +who visited them in 1796; since which the two villages have +united into one. They are now in two villages, one on the +southeast of the Missouri, the other on the opposite side, +and at the distance of three miles across. The first, in +an open plain, contains about forty or fifty lodges, built in +the same way as those of the Ricaras: the second, the same +number, and both may raise about three hundred and fifty +men.</p> + +<p>On the same side of the river, and at the distance of four +miles from the lower Mandan village, is another called Mahaha. +It is situated in a high plain at the mouth of Knife +river, and is the residence of the Ahnahaways. This nation, +whose name indicates that they were "people whose +village is on a hill," formerly resided on the Missouri, about +thirty miles below where they now live. The Assiniboins +and Sioux forced them to a spot five miles higher, where +the greatest part of them were put to death, and the rest +emigrated to their present situation, in order to obtain an +assylum near the Minnetarees. They are called by the +French, Soulier Noir or Shoe Indians; by the Mandans, +Wattasoons, and their whole force is about fifty men.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_131" id="Pg_131" title="Pg_131">[131]</a></span>On the south side of the same Knife river, half a mile +above the Mahaha and in the same open plain with it, is a +village of Minnetarees surnamed Metaharta, who are about +one hundred and fifty men in number. On the opposite side +of Knife river, and one and a half mile above this village +is a second of Minnetarees, who may be considered as the +proper Minnetaree nation. It is situated in a beautiful low +plain, and contains four hundred and fifty warriors. The +accounts which we received of the Minnetarees were contradictory. +The Mandans say that this people came out of the +water to the east, and settled near them in their former +establishment in nine villages; that they were very numerous, +and fixed themselves in one village on the southern +side of the Missouri. A quarrel about a buffaloe divided the +nation, of which two bands went into the plains, and were +known by the name of Crow and Paunch Indians, and the +rest moved to their present establishment. The Minnetarees +proper assert, on the contrary, that they grew where +they now live, and will never emigrate from the spot; the +great spirit having declared that if they moved they would +all die. They also say that the Minnetarees Metaharta, +that is Minnetarees of the Willows, whose language with +very little variation is their own, came many years ago from +the plains and settled near them, and perhaps the two traditions +may be reconciled by the natural presumption that +these Minnetarees were the tribe known to the Mandans +below, and that they ascended the river for the purpose of +rejoining the Minnetarees proper. These Minnetarees are +part of the great nation called Fall Indians, who occupy +the intermediate country between the Missouri and the +Saskaskawan, and who are known by the name of Minnetarees +of the Missouri, and Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie; +that is, residing near or rather frequenting the establishment +in the prairie on the Saskaskawan. These Minnetarees +indeed, told us that they had relations on the Saskaskawan, +whom they had never known till they met them in war, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_132" id="Pg_132" title="Pg_132">[132]</a></span>and having engaged in the night were astonished at discovering +that they were fighting with men who spoke their +own language. The name of Grosventres, or Bigbellies +is given to these Minnetarees, as well as to all the Fall Indians. +The inhabitants of these five villages, all of which +are within the distance of six miles, live in harmony with +each other. The Ahnahaways understand in part the language +of the Minnetarees: the dialect of the Mandans differs +widely from both; but their long residence together has +insensibly blended their manners, and occasioned some approximation +in language, particularly as to objects of daily +occurrence and obvious to the senses.</p> + +<p>November 22. The morning was fine, and the day warm. +We purchased from the Mandans a quantity of corn of a +mixed colour, which they dug up in ears from holes made +near the front of their lodges, in which it is buried during the +winter: this morning the sentinel informed us that an Indian +was about to kill his wife near the fort; we went down to the +house of our interpreter where we found the parties, and +after forbidding any violence, inquired into the cause of his +intending to commit such as atrocity. It appeared that +some days ago a quarrel had taken place between him and +his wife, in consequence of which she had taken refuge in +the house where the two squaws of our interpreter lived: +by running away she forfeited her life, which might have +been lawfully taken by the husband. About two days ago she +had returned to the village, but the same evening came back +to the fort much beaten and stabbed in three places, and the +husband now came for the purpose of completing his revenge. +He observed that he had lent her to one of our serjeants for +a night, and that if he wanted her he would give her to him +altogether: we gave him a few presents and tried to persuade +him to take his wife home; the grand chief too happened to +arrive at the same moment, and reproached him with his +violence, till at length they went off together, but by no +means in a state of much apparent love.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_133" id="Pg_133" title="Pg_133">[133]</a></span>November 23. Again we had a fair and warm day, with +the wind from the southeast: the river is now at a stand having +risen four inches in the whole.</p> + +<p>November 24. The wind continued from the same quarter +and the weather was warm: we were occupied in finishing +our huts and making a large rope of elk-skin to draw our +boat on the bank.</p> + +<p>Sunday, November 25. The weather is still fine, warm +and pleasant, and the river falls one inch and a half. Captain +Lewis went on an excursion to the villages accompanied +by eight men. A Minnetaree chief, the first who has visited +us, came down to the fort: his name was Waukerassa, but +as both the interpreters had gone with captain Lewis we +were obliged to confine our civilities to some presents with +which he was much pleased: we now completed our huts, +and fortunately too, for the next day,</p> + +<p>Monday, November 26, before daylight the wind shifted +to the northwest, and blew very hard, with cloudy weather +and a keen cold air, which confined us much and prevented +us from working: the night continued very cold, and,</p> + +<p>Tuesday 27, the weather cloudy, the wind continuing +from the northwest and the river crowded with floating ice. +Captain Lewis returned with two chiefs Mahnotah, an Ahnahaway, +and Minnessurraree a Minnetaree, and a third warrior: +they explained to us that the reason of their not having +come to see us, was that the Mandans had told them that +we meant to combine with the Sioux and cut them off in the +course of the winter: a suspicion increased by the strength +of the fort, and the circumstance of our interpreters having +both removed there with their families: these reports we +did not fail to disprove to their entire satisfaction, and amused +them by every attention, particularly by the dancing of +the men which diverted them highly. All the Indians whom +captain Lewis had visited were very well disposed, and received +him with great kindness, except a principal chief of +one of the upper villages, named Mabpahpaparapassatoo or +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_134" id="Pg_134" title="Pg_134">[134]</a></span>Horned Weasel, who made use of the civilized indecorum of +refusing to be seen, and when captain Lewis called he was +told the chief was not at home. In the course of the day +seven of the northwest company's traders arrived from the +Assiniboin river, and one of their interpreters having undertaken +to circulate among the Indians unfavourable reports, +it become necessary to warn them of the consequences +if they did not desist from such proceedings. The river fell +two inches to-day and the weather became very cold.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 28. About eight o'clock last evening it began +to snow and continued till daybreak, after which it ceased +till seven o'clock, but then resumed and continued during +the day, the weather being cold and the river full of floating +ice: about eight o'clock Poscopsahe came down to visit +us, with some warriors; we gave them presents and entertained +them with all that might amuse their curiosity, and +at parting we told them that we had heard of the British +trader, Mr. Laroche, having attempted to distribute medals +and flags among them, but that those emblems could not +be received from any other than the American nation without +incurring the displeasure of their great father the president. +They left us much pleased with their treatment. The +river fell one inch to-day.</p> + +<p>Thursday 29. The wind is again from the northwest, the +weather cold, and the snow which fell yesterday and this +night is thirteen inches in depth. The river closed during +the night at the village above, and fell two feet; but this afternoon +it began to rise a little. Mr. Laroche, the principal +of the seven traders, came with one of his men to see us; we +told him that we should not permit him to give medals and +flags to the Indians; he declared that he had no such intention, +and we then suffered him to make use of one of our interpreters, +on his stipulating not to touch any subject but +that of his traffic with them. An unfortunate accident occurred +to sergeant Pryor, who in taking down the boat's +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_135" id="Pg_135" title="Pg_135">[135]</a></span>mast dislocated his shoulder, nor was it till after four trials +that we replaced it.</p> + +<p>Friday 30. About eight o'clock an Indian came to the opposite +bank of the river, calling out that he had something +important to communicate, and on sending for him, he told +us that five Mandans had been met about eight leagues to the +southwest by a party of Sioux, who had killed one of them, +wounded two, and taken nine horses; that four of the Wattasoons +were missing, and that the Mandans expected an attack. +We thought this an excellent opportunity to discountenance +the injurious reports against us, and to fix the wavering +confidence of the nation. Captain Clarke therefore +instantly crossed the river with twenty-three men strongly +armed, and circling the town approached it from behind. +His unexpected appearance surprised and alarmed the chiefs, +who came out to meet him, and conducted him to the village. +He then told them that having heard of the outrage just +committed, he had come to assist his dutiful children; that +if they would assemble their warriors and those of the nation, +he would lead them against the Sioux and avenge the +blood of their countrymen. After some minutes conversation, +Oheenaw the Chayenne arose; "We now see," said he, +"that what you have told us is true, since as soon as our enemies +threaten to attack us you come to protect us and are ready +to chastise those who have spilt our blood. We did indeed +listen to your good talk, for when you told us that the other +nations were inclined to peace with us, we went out carelessly +in small parties, and some have been killed by the Sioux +and Ricaras. But I knew that the Ricaras were liars, and +I told their chief who accompanied you, that his whole nation +were liars and bad men; that we had several times made +a peace with them which they were the first to break; that +whenever we pleased we might shoot them like buffaloe, but +that we had no wish to kill them; that we would not suffer +them to kill us, nor steal our horses; and that although we +agreed to make peace with them, because our two fathers +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_136" id="Pg_136" title="Pg_136">[136]</a></span>desired it, yet we did not believe that they would be faithful +long. Such, father, was my language to them in your +presence, and you see that instead of listening to your good +counsels they have spilt our blood. A few days ago two +Ricaras came here and told us that two of their villages were +making moccasins, that the Sioux were stirring them up +against us, and that we ought to take care of our horses; +yet these very Ricaras we sent home as soon as the news +reached us to-day, lest our people should kill them in the +first moment of grief for their murdered relatives. Four +of the Wattasoons whom we expected back in sixteen days +have been absent twenty-four, and we fear have fallen. But +father the snow is now deep, the weather cold, and our horses +cannot travel through the plains; the murderers have +gone off: if you will conduct us in the spring, when the snow +has disappeared, we will assemble all the surrounding warriors +and follow you."</p> + +<p>Captain Clarke replied that we were always willing and +able to defend them; that he was sorry that the snow prevented +their marching to meet the Sioux, since he wished to +show them that the warriors of their great father would +chastise the enemies of his obedient children who opened +their ears to his advice; that if some Ricaras had joined the +Sioux, they should remember that there were bad men in +every nation, and that they should not be offended at the +Ricaras till they saw whether these ill-disposed men were +countenanced by the whole tribe; that the Sioux possessed +great influence over the Ricaras, whom they supplied with +military stores, and sometimes led them astray, because they +were afraid to oppose them: but that this should be the less offensive +since the Mandans themselves were under the same apprehensions +from the Assiniboins and Knistenaux, and that +while they were thus dependant, both the Ricaras and Mandans +ought to keep on terms with their powerful neighbours, +whom they may afterwards set at defiance, when we shall supply +them with arms, and take them under our protection.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_137" id="Pg_137" title="Pg_137">[137]</a></span>After two hours conversation captain Clarke left the +village. The chief repeatedly thanked him for the fatherly +protection he had given them, observing that the whole +village had been weeping all night and day for the brave +young man who had been slain, but now they would wipe +their eyes and weep no more as they saw that their father +would protect them. He then crossed the river on the ice +and returned on the north side to the fort. The day as well +as the evening was cold, and the river rose to its former +height.</p> + +<p>Saturday, December 1. The wind was from the northwest, +and the whole party engaged in picketing the fort. +About ten o'clock the half-brother of the man who had been +killed, came to inform us that six Sharhas or Chayenne +Indians had arrived, bringing a pipe of peace, and that their +nation was three days march behind them. Three Pawnees +had accompanied the Sharhas, and the Mandans being +afraid of the Sharhas on account of their being at peace +with the Sioux, wished to put both them and the three +Pawnees to death; but the chiefs had forbidden it as it +would be contrary to our wishes. We gave him a present +of tobacco, and although from his connexion with the sufferer, +he was more embittered against the Pawnees than +any other Mandan, yet he seemed perfectly satisfied with +our pacific counsels and advice. The Mandans, we observe, +call all the Ricaras by the name of Pawnees; the name of +Ricaras being that by which the nation distinguishes itself.</p> + +<p>In the evening we were visited by a Mr. Henderson, who +came from the Hudson bay company to trade with the Minnetarees. +He had been about eight days on his route in +a direction nearly south, and brought with him tobacco, +beeds, and other merchandize to trade for furs, and a few +guns which are to be exchanged for horses.</p> + +<p>Sunday, December 2. The latter part of the evening +was warm, and a thaw continued till the morning, when the +wind shifted to the north. At eleven o'clock the chiefs of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_138" id="Pg_138" title="Pg_138">[138]</a></span>the lower village brought down four of the Sharhas. We +explained to them our intentions, and advised them to remain +at peace with each other: we also gave them a flag, +some tobacco, and a speech for their nation. These were +accompanied by a letter to messrs. Tabeau and Gravelines +at the Ricara village, requesting them to preserve peace if +possible, and to declare the part which we should be forced +to take if the Ricaras and Sioux made war on those whom +we had adopted. After distributing a few presents to the +Sharhas and Mandans, and showing them our curiosities +we dismissed them, apparently well pleased at their reception.</p> + +<p>Monday, December 3. The morning was fine, but in +the afternoon the weather became cold with the wind from +the northwest. The father of the Mandan who was killed +brought us a present of dried pumpkins and some pemitigon, +for which we gave him some small articles. Our offer +of assistance to avenge the death of his son seemed to have +produced a grateful respect from him, as well as from the +brother of the deceased, which pleased us much.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 4th. The wind continues from the northwest, +the weather cloudy and raw, and the river rose one inch, +Oscapsahe and two young chiefs pass the day with us. The +whole religion of the Mandans consists in the belief of one +great spirit presiding over their destinies. This being must +be in the nature of a good genius since it is associated with +the healing art, and the great spirit is synonymous with +great medicine, a name also applied to every thing which +they do not comprehend. Each individual selects for himself +the particular object of his devotion, which is termed +his medicine, and is either some invisible being or more +commonly some animal, which thenceforward becomes his +protector or his intercessor with the great spirit; to propitiate +whom every attention is lavished, and every personal +consideration is sacrificed. "I was lately owner of +seventeen horses," said a Mandan to us one day, "but I +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_139" id="Pg_139" title="Pg_139">[139]</a></span>have offered them all up to my medicine and am now poor." +He had in reality taken all his wealth, his horses, into the +plain, and turning them loose committed them to the care +of his medicine and abandoned them forever. The horses +less religious took care of themselves, and the pious votary +travelled home on foot. Their belief in a future state is +connected with this tradition of their origin: the whole +nation resided in one large village under ground near a +subterraneous lake; a grape-vine extended its roots down to +their habitation and gave them a view of the light: some of +the most adventurous climed up the vine and were delighted +with the sight of the earth, which they found covered with +buffaloe and rich with every kind of fruits: returning with +the grapes they had gathered, their countrymen were so +pleased with the taste of them that the whole nation resolved +to leave their dull residence for the charms of the +upper region; men, women and children ascended by means +of the vine; but when about half the nation had reached the +surface of the earth, a corpulent woman who was clambering +up the vine broke it with her weight, and closed upon +herself and the rest of the nation the light of the sun. +Those who were left on earth made a village below where +we saw the nine villages; and when the Mandans die they +expect to return to the original seats of their forefathers; +the good reaching the ancient village by means of the lake, +which the burden of the sins of the wicked will not enable +them to cross.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 5. The morning was cold and disagreeable, +the wind from the southeast accompanied with snow: in the +evening there was snow again and the wind shifted to the +northeast: we were visited by several Indians with a present +of pumpkins, and by two of the traders of the northwest +company.</p> + +<p>Thursday 6. The wind was violent from the north northwest +with some snow, the air keen and cold. At eight +o'clock A.M. the thermometer stood at ten degrees above +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_140" id="Pg_140" title="Pg_140">[140]</a></span>0, and the river rose an inch and a half in the course of the +day.</p> + +<p>Friday, December 7. The wind still continued from the +northwest and the day is very cold: Shahaka the chief of +the lower village came to apprise us that the buffaloe were +near, and that his people were waiting for us to join them +in the chase: captain Clark with fifteen men went out and +found the Indians engaged in killing the buffaloe, the hunters +mounted on horseback and armed with bows and arrows +encircle the herd, and gradually drive them into a +plain or an open place fit for the movements of horse; they +then ride in among them, and singling out a buffaloe, a female +being preferred, go as close as possible and wound her +with arrows till they think they have given the mortal +stroke; when they pursue another till the quiver is exhausted: +if, which rarely happens, the wounded buffaloe attacks +the hunter, he evades his blow by the agility of his horse +which is trained for the combat with great dexterity. When +they have killed the requisite number they collect their +game, and the squaws and attendants come up from the +rear and skin and dress the animals. Captain Clarke killed +ten buffaloe, of which five only were brought to the fort, +the rest which could not be conveyed home being seized +by the Indians, among whom the custom is that whenever +a buffaloe is found dead without an arrow or any particular +mark, he is the property of the finder; so that often a hunter +secures scarcely any of the game he kills if the arrow +happens to fall off: whatever is left out at night falls +to the share of the wolves, who are the constant and numerous +attendants of the buffaloe. The river closed opposite +the fort last night, an inch and a half in thickness. +In the morning the thermometer stood at one degree below +0. Three men were badly frostbitten in consequence +of their exposure.</p> + +<p>Saturday 8. The thermometer stood at twelve degrees +below 0, that is at forty-two degrees below the freezing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_141" id="Pg_141" title="Pg_141">[141]</a></span>point: the wind was from the northwest. Captain Lewis with +fifteen men went out to hunt the buffaloe; great numbers of +which darkened the prairies for a considerable distance: +they did not return till after dark, having killed eight buffaloe +and one deer. The hunt was, however, very fatiguing, as +they were obliged to make a circuit at the distance of more +than seven miles; the cold too, was so excessive that the +air was filled with icy particles resembling a fog, and the +snow generally six or eight inches deep and sometimes +eighteen, in consequence of which two of the party were +hurt by falls, and several had their feet frostbitten.</p> + +<p>Sunday 9. The wind was this day from the east, the +thermometer at seven degrees above 0, and the sun shone +clear: two chiefs visited us, one in a sleigh drawn by a dog +and loaded with meat.</p> + +<p>Monday 10. Captain Clarke who had gone out yesterday +with eighteen men to bring in the meat we had killed the +day before, and to continue the hunt, came in at twelve +o'clock. After killing nine buffaloe and preparing that already +dead, he had spent a cold disagreeable night on the +snow, with no covering but a small blanket, sheltered by the +hides of the buffaloe they had killed. We observe large herds +of buffaloe crossing the river on the ice, the men who were +frostbitten are recovering, but the weather is still exceedingly +cold, the wind being from the north, and the thermometer +at ten and eleven degrees below 0: the rise of the +river is one inch and a half.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 11. The weather became so intensely cold that +we sent for all the hunters who had remained out with +captain Clarke's party, and they returned in the evening several +of them frostbitten. The wind was from the north and the +thermometer at sunrise stood at twenty-one below 0, the ice +in the atmosphere being so thick as to render the weather +hazy and give the appearance of two suns reflecting each +other. The river continues at a stand. Pocapsahe made us +a visit to-day.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_142" id="Pg_142" title="Pg_142">[142]</a></span>Wednesday, December 12. The wind is still from the +north, the thermometer being at sunrise thirty-eight degrees +below 0. One of the Ahnahaways brought us down the +half of an antelope killed near the fort; we had been informed +that all these animals return to the Black mountains, +but there are great numbers of them about us at this season +which we might easily kill, but are unwilling to venture +out before our constitutions are hardened gradually to +the climate. We measured the river on the ice, and find it +five hundred yards wide immediately opposite the fort.</p> + +<p>Thursday 13. Last night was clear and a very heavy +frost covered the old snow, the thermometer at sun rise being +twenty degrees below 0, and followed by a fine day. The +river falls.</p> + +<p>Friday 14. The morning was fine, and the weather having +moderated so far, that the mercury stood at 0, captain +Lewis went down with a party to hunt; they proceeded about +eighteen miles, but the buffaloe having left the banks of the +river they saw only two, which were so poor as not to be +worth killing, and shot two deer. Notwithstanding the snow +we were visited by a large number of the Mandans.</p> + +<p>Saturday 15. Captain Lewis finding no game returned to +the fort hunting on both sides of the river, but with no success. +The wind being from the north, the mercury at sunrise +eight degrees below 0, and the snow of last night an +inch and a half in depth. The Indian chiefs continue to visit +us to-day with presents of meat.</p> + +<p>Sunday 16. The morning is clear and cold, the mercury +at sunrise 22° below 0. A Mr. Haney with two other persons +from the British establishment on the Assiniboin, arrived +in six days with a letter from Mr. Charles Chabouilles, +one of the company, who with much politeness offered to +render us any service in his power.</p> + +<p>Monday 17. The weather to-day was colder than any we +had yet experienced, the thermometer at sunrise being 45° +below 0, and about eight o'clock it fell to 74° below the freezing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_143" id="Pg_143" title="Pg_143">[143]</a></span>point. From Mr. Haney, who is a very sensible intelligent +man, we obtained much geographical information +with regard to the country between the Missouri and Mississippi, +and the various tribes of Sioux who inhabit it.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 18. The thermometer at sunrise was 32° below +0. The Indians had invited us yesterday to join their chace +to-day, but the seven men whom we sent returned in consequence +of the cold, which was so severe last night that we +were obliged to have the sentinel relieved every half hour. +The northwest traders however left us on their return home.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 19. The weather moderated, and the river +rose a little, so that we were enabled to continue the picketing +of the fort. Notwithstanding the extreme cold, we observe +the Indians at the village engaged out in the open air +at a game which resembled billiards more than any thing +we had seen, and which we inclined to suspect may have +been acquired by ancient intercourse with the French of +Canada. From the first to the second chief's lodge, a distance +of about fifty yards, was covered with timber smoothed +and joined so as to be as level as the floor of one of our +houses, with a battery at the end to stop the rings: these +rings were of clay-stone and flat like the chequers for drafts, +and the sticks were about four feet long, with two short pieces +at one end in the form of a mace, so fixed that the whole +will slide along the board. Two men fix themselves at one +end, each provided with a stick, and one of them with a ring: +they then run along the board, and about half way slide the +sticks after the ring.</p> + +<p>Thursday 20. The wind was from the N.W. the weather +moderate, the thermometer 24° above 0 at sunrise. We +availed ourselves of this change to picket the fort near the +river.</p> + +<p>Friday 21. The day was fine and warm, the wind N.W. +by W. The Indian who had been prevented a few days ago +from killing his wife, came with both his wives to the fort, +and was very desirous of reconciling our interpreter, a jealousy +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_144" id="Pg_144" title="Pg_144">[144]</a></span>against whom on account of his wife's taking refuge +in his house, had been the cause of his animosity. A woman +brought her child with an abscess in the lower part of the +back, and offered as much corn as she could carry for some +medicine; we administered to it of course very cheerfully.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 22d. A number of squaws and men dressed +like squaws brought corn to trade for small articles with +the men. Among other things we procured two horns of +the animal called by the French the Rock mountain sheep, +and known to the Mandans by the name of ahsahta. The +animal itself is about the size of a small elk or large deer: +the horns winding like those of a ram which they resemble +also in texture, though larger and thicker.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 23d. The weather was fine and warm like that +of yesterday: we were again visited by crowds of Indians of +all descriptions, who came either to trade or from mere curiosity. +Among the rest Kogahami, the Little Raven, brought +his wife and son loaded with corn, and she then entertained +us with a favourite Mandan dish, a mixture of pumpkins, +beans, corn, and chokecherries with the stones, all boiled +together in a kettle, and forming a composition by no means +unpalatable.</p> + +<p>Monday, 24th. The day continued warm and pleasant, +and the number of visitors became troublesome. As a +present to three of the chiefs, we divided a fillet of sheepskin +which we brought for spunging into three pieces each +of two inches in width; they were delighted at the gift, +which they deemed of equal value with a fine horse. We +this day completed our fort, and the next morning being +Christmas,</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 25th, we were awaked before day by a discharge +of three platoons from the party. We had told the +Indians not to visit us as it was one of our great medicine +days; so that the men remained at home and amused themselves +in various ways, particularly with dancing in which +they take great pleasure. The American flag was hoisted +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_145" id="Pg_145" title="Pg_145">[145]</a></span>for the first time in the fort; the best provisions we had +were brought out, and this, with a little brandy, enabled +them to pass the day in great festivity.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 26th. The weather is again temperate, but +no Indians have come to see us. One of the northwest traders +who came down to request the aid of our Minnetaree +interpreter, informs us that a party of Minnetarees who had +gone in pursuit of the Assiniboins who lately stole their +horses had just returned. As is their custom, they came +back in small detachments, the last of which brought home +eight horses which they had captured or stolen from an +Assiniboin camp on Mouse river.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 27th. A little fine snow fell this morning and +the air was colder than yesterday, with a high northwest +wind. We were fortunate enough to have among our men +a good blacksmith, whom we set to work to make a variety +of articles; his operations seemed to surprise the Indians +who came to see us, but nothing could equal their astonishment +at the bellows, which they considered as a very great +medicine. Having heretofore promised a more particular +account of the Sioux, the following may serve as a general +outline of their history:</p> + +<p>Almost the whole of that vast tract of country comprised +between the Mississippi, the Red River of Lake Winnepeg, +the Saskaskawan, and the Missouri, is loosely occupied +by a great nation whose primitive name is Darcota, +but who are called Sioux by the French, Sues by +the English. Their original seats were on the Mississippi, +but they have gradually spread themselves abroad +and become subdivided into numerous tribes. Of these, +what may be considered as the Darcotas are the Mindawarcarton, +or Minowakanton, known to the French by the +name of the Gens du Lac, or People of the Lake. Their +residence is on both sides of the Mississippi near the falls +of St. Anthony, and the probable number of their warriors +about three hundred. Above them, on the river St. Peter's, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_146" id="Pg_146" title="Pg_146">[146]</a></span>is the Wahpatone, a smaller band of nearly two hundred +men; and still farther up the same river below Yellow-wood +river are the Wahpatootas or Gens de Feuilles, an +inferior band of not more than one hundred men; while the +sources of the St. Peter's are occupied by the Sisatoones, a +band consisting of about two hundred warriors.</p> + +<p>These bands rarely if ever approach the Missouri, which +is occupied by their kinsmen the Yanktons and the Tetons. +The Yanktons are of two tribes, those of the plains, +or rather of the north, a wandering race of about five hundred +men, who roam over the plains at the heads of the Jacques, +the Sioux, and the Red river; and those of the south, +who possess the country between the Jacques and Sioux +rivers and the Desmoine. But the bands of Sioux most +known on the Missouri are the Tetons. The first who are +met on ascending the Missouri is the tribe called by the +French the Tetons of the Boise Brule or Burntwood, who +reside on both sides of the Missouri, about White and Teton +rivers, and number two hundred warriors. Above them +on the Missouri are the Teton Okandandas, a band of one +hundred and fifty men living below the Chayenne river, +between which and the Wetarhoo river is a third band, +called Teton Minnakenozzo, of nearly two hundred and +fifty men; and below the Warreconne is the fourth and last +tribe of Tetons of about three hundred men, and called Teton +Saone. Northward of these, between the Assiniboin +and the Missouri, are two bands of Assiniboins, one on +Mouse river of about two hundred men, and called Assiniboin +Menatopa; the other, residing on both sides of White +river, called by the French Gens de Feuilles, and amounting +to two hundred and fifty men. Beyond these a band of +Assiniboins of four hundred and fifty men, and called the +Big Devils, wander on the heads of Milk, Porcupine, and +Martha's rivers; while still farther to the north are seen +two bands of the same nation, one of five hundred and the +other of two hundred, roving on the Saskaskawan. Those +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_147" id="Pg_147" title="Pg_147">[147]</a></span>Assiniboins are recognised by a similarity of language, and +by tradition as descendents or seceders from the Sioux; +though often at war are still acknowledged as relations. The +Sioux themselves, though scattered, meet annually on the +Jacques, those on the Missouri trading with those on the +Mississippi.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_148" id="Pg_148" title="Pg_148">[148]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The party increase in the favour of the Mandans—Description of a buffaloe +dance—Medicine dance—The fortitude with which the Indians bear the severity +of the season—Distress of the party for want of provisions—The great +importance of the blacksmith in procuring it—Depredations of the Sioux—The +homage paid to the medicine stone—Summary act of justice among +the Minnetarees—The process by which the Mandans and Ricaras make +beads—Character of the Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the +rivers, creeks, islands, &c.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>Friday, 28th. The wind continued high last night, +the frost severe, and the snow drifting in great quantities +through the plains.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 29th. There was a frost fell last night nearly +one quarter of an inch in depth, which continued to fall +till the sun had gained some height: the mercury at sunrise +stood at 9° below 0: there were a number of Indians at +the fort in the course of the day.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 30th. The weather was cold, and the thermometer +20° below 0. We killed one deer, and yesterday one +of the men shot a wolf. The Indians brought corn, beans, +and squashes, which they very readily gave for getting their +axes and kettles mended. In their general conduct during +these visits they are honest, but will occasionally pilfer any +small article.</p> + +<p>Monday, 31. During the night there was a high wind +which covered the ice with hillocks of mixed sand and snow: +the day was however fine, and the Indians came in great +numbers for the purpose of having their utensils repaired.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, January 1, 1805. The new year was welcomed +by two shot from the swivel and a round of small arms. +The weather was cloudy but moderate; the mercury which +at sunrise was at 18°, in the course of the day rose to 34° +above 0: towards evening it began to rain, and at night we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_149" id="Pg_149" title="Pg_149">[149]</a></span>had snow, the temperature for which is about 0. In the +morning we permitted sixteen men with their music to go +up to the first village, where they delighted the whole tribe +with their dances, particularly with the movements of one +of the Frenchmen who danced on his head. In return they +presented the dancers with several buffaloe robes and +quantities of corn. We were desirous of showing this attention +to the village, because they had received an impression +that we had been wanting in regard for them, and +they had in consequence circulated invidious comparisons +between us and the northern traders: all these +however they declared to captain Clarke, who visited them +in the course of the morning, were made in jest. As captain +Clarke was about leaving the village, two of their chiefs +returned from a mission to the Grosventres or wandering +Minnetarees. These people were encamped about ten miles +above, and while there one of the Ahnahaways had stolen +a Minnetaree girl: the whole nation immediately espoused +the quarrel, and one hundred and fifty of their warriors were +marching down to revenge the insult on the Ahnahaways. +The chief of that nation took the girl from the ravisher, and +giving her to the Mandans requested their intercession. +The messengers went out to meet the warriors, and delivered +the young damsel into the hands of her countrymen, +smoked the pipe of peace with them, and were fortunate +enough to avert their indignation and induce them to return. +In the evening some of the men came to the fort and the +rest slept in the village. Pocapsahe also visited us and +brought some meat on his wife's back.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, January 2. It snowed last night, and during +this day the same scene of gayety was renewed at the +second village, and all the men returned in the evening.</p> + +<p>Thursday 3. Last night it became very cold, and this +morning we had some snow: our hunters were sent out for +buffaloe, but the game had been frightened from the river +by the Indians, so that they obtained only one: they however +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_150" id="Pg_150" title="Pg_150">[150]</a></span>killed a hare and a wolf. Among the Indians who visited us +was a Minnetaree who came to seek his wife: she had been +much abused and came here for protection, but returned +with him; as we had no authority to separate those whom +even the Mandan rites had united.</p> + +<p>Friday 4. The morning was cloudy and warm, the mercury +being 28° above 0: but towards evening the wind changed +to northwest, and the weather became cold. We sent +some hunters down the river, but they killed only one buffaloe +and a wolf. We received the visit of Kagohami who is +very friendly, and to whom we gave a hankerchief and two +files.</p> + +<p>Saturday 5. We had high and boisterous winds last night +and this morning: the Indians continue to purchase repairs +with grain of different kinds. In the first village there has +been a buffaloe dance for the last three nights, which has +put them all into commotion, and the description which we +received from those of the party who visited the village +and from other sources, is not a little ludicrous: the buffaloe +dance is an institution originally intended for the benefit +of the old men, and practised at their suggestion. When +buffaloe becomes scarce they send a man to harangue the +village, declaring that the game is far off and that a feast +is necessary to bring it back, and if the village be disposed +a day and place is named for the celebration of it. At the +appointed hour the old men arrive, and seat themselves +crosslegged on skins round a fire in the middle of the lodge +with a sort of doll or small image, dressed like a female, +placed before them. The young men bring with them a +platter of provisions, a pipe of tobacco, and their wives, +whose dress on the occasion is only a robe or mantle loosely +thrown round the body. On their arrival each youth selects +the old man whom he means to distinguish by his favour, +and spreads before him the provisions, after which he presents +the pipe and smokes with him. Mox senex vir simulacrum +parvæ puellæ ostensit. Tune egrediens eætu, jecit +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_151" id="Pg_151" title="Pg_151">[151]</a></span>effigium solo et superincumbens, senili ardore veneris complexit. +Hoc est signum. Denique uxor e turba recessit, +et jactu corporis, fovet amplexus viri solo recubante. Maritus +appropinquans senex vir dejecto vultu, et honorem +et dignitatem ejus conservare amplexu uxoris illum oravit. +Forsitan imprimis ille refellit; dehine, maritus multis precibus, +multis lachrymis, et multis donis vehementer intercessit. +Tune senex amator perculsus miserecordia, tot precibus, +tot lachrymis, et tot donis, conjugali amplexu submisit. +Multum ille jactatus est, sed debilis et effoetus senectute, +frustra jactatus est. Maritus interdum stans juxta guadit +multum honore, et ejus dignitati sic conservata. Unus nostrum +sodalium multum alacrior et potentior juventute, hac +nocte honorem quartour maritorum custodivit.</p> + +<p>Sunday 6. A clear cold morning with high wind: we +caught in a trap a large gray wolf, and last night obtained +in the same way a fox who had for some time infested the +neighbourhood of the fort. Only a few Indians visited us +to-day.</p> + +<p>Monday 7. The weather was again clear and cold with +a high northwest wind, and the thermometer at sunrise 22° +below 0; the river fell an inch. Shahaka the Big White chief +dined with us, and gave a connected sketch of the country +as far as the mountains.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 8. The wind was still from the northwest, the +day cold, and we received few Indians at the fort. Besides +the buffaloe dance we have just described, there is another +called medicine dance, an entertainment given by any person +desirous of doing honour to his medicine or genius. He +announces, that on such a day he will sacrifice his horses, +or other property, and invites the young females of the village +to assist in rendering homage to his medicine; all the +inhabitants may join in the solemnity, which is performed +in the open plain and by daylight, but the dance is reserved +for the virgins or at least the unmarried females, who disdain +the incumbrance or the ornament of dress. The feast +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_152" id="Pg_152" title="Pg_152">[152]</a></span>is opened by devoting the goods of the master of the feast +to his medicine, which is represented by a head of the animal +itself, or by a medicine bag if the deity be an invisible +being. The young women then begin the dance, in the intervals +of which each will prostrate herself before the assembly +to challenge or reward the boldness of the youth, +who are often tempted by feeling or the hopes of distinction +to achieve the adventure.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 9. The weather is cold, the thermometer +at sunrise 21° below 0. Kagohami breakfasted with us, and +captain Clarke with three or four men accompanied him +and a party of Indians to hunt, in which they were so fortunate +as to kill a number of buffaloe: but they were incommoded +by snow, by high and squally winds, and by extreme +cold; several of the Indians came to the fort nearly frozen, +others are missing, and we are uneasy, for one of our men +who was separated from the rest during the chase has not +returned: In the morning,</p> + +<p>Thursday 10, however, he came back just as we were +sending out five men in search of him. The night had been +excessively cold, and this morning at sunrise the mercury +stood at 40° below 0, or 72 below the freezing point. He +had however, made a fire and kept himself tolerably warm. +A young Indian, about thirteen years of age, also came in +soon after. His father who came last night to inquire after +him very anxiously, had sent him in the afternoon to the +fort: he was overtaken by the night, and was obliged to +sleep on the snow with no covering except a pair of antelope +skin moccasins and leggings and a buffaloe robe: his +feet being frozen we put them into cold water, and gave +him every attention in our power. About the same time an +Indian who had also been missing returned to the fort, and +although his dress was very thin, and he had slept on the snow +without a fire, he had not suffered the slightest inconvenience. +We have indeed observed that these Indians support the rigours +of the season in a way which we had hitherto thought +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_153" id="Pg_153" title="Pg_153">[153]</a></span>impossible. A more pleasing reflection occurred at seeing +the warm interest which the situation of these two persons +had excited in the village, the boy had been a prisoner and +adopted from charity, yet the distress of the father proved +that he felt for him the tenderest affection, the man was a +person of no distinction, yet the whole village was full of +anxiety for his safety and when they came to us, borrowed a +sleigh to bring them home with ease, if they survived, or to +carry their bodies if they had perished.</p> + +<p>Friday 11. We despatched three hunters to join the +same number whom we had sent below about seven miles +to hunt elk. Like that of yesterday the weather to-day was +cold and clear, the thermometer standing at 38° below 0. +Poscopsahe and Shotahawrora visited us, and past the night +at the fort.</p> + +<p>Saturday 12. The weather continues very cold, the mercury +at sunrise being 20° below 0. Three of the hunters returned, +having killed three elk.</p> + +<p>Sunday 13. We have a continuation of clear weather, +and the cold has increased, the mercury having sunk to 34° +below 0. Nearly one half of the Mandan nation passed down +the river to hunt for several days; in these excursions men, +women and children, with their dogs, all leave the village +together, and after discovering a spot convenient for the +game, fix their tents; all the family bear their part in the +labour, and the game is equally divided among the families +of the tribe. When a single hunter returns from the chase +with more than is necessary for his own immediate consumption, +the neighbours are entitled by custom to a share of it: +they do not however ask for it, but send a squaw, who without +saying any thing, sits down by the door of the lodge till +the master understands the hint, and gives her gratuitously +a part for her family. Chaboneau who with one man had +gone to some lodges of Minnetarees near the Turtle mountain, +returned with their faces much frostbitten. They had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_154" id="Pg_154" title="Pg_154">[154]</a></span>been about ninety miles distant, and procured from the inhabitants +some meat and grease, with which they loaded the +horses. He informs us that the agent of the Hudson bay +company at that place, had been endeavouring to make unfavourable +impressions with regard to us on the mind of +the great chief, and that the N.W. company intend building +a fort there. The great chief had in consequence spoken +slightly of the Americans, but said that if we would give +him our great flag he would come and see us.</p> + +<p>Monday 14. The Mandans continue to pass down the +river on their hunting party, and were joined by six of our +men. One of those sent on Thursday returned, with information +that one of his companions had his feet so badly frostbitten +that he could not walk home. In their excursion +they had killed a buffaloe, a wolf, two porcupines and a white +hare. The weather was more moderate to-day, the mercury +being at 16° below 0, and the wind from the S.E. we +had however some snow, after which it remained cloudy.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 15. The morning is much warmer than yesterday, +and the snow begins to melt, though the wind after being +for some time from the S.E. suddenly shifted to N.W. +Between twelve and three o'clock A.M. there was a total +eclipse of the moon, from which we obtained a part of the +observation necessary for ascertaining the longitude.</p> + +<p>We were visited by four of the most distinguished men +of the Minnetarees, to whom we showed marked attentions, +as we knew that they had been taught to entertain strong +prejudices against us; these we succeeded so well in removing, +that when in the morning,</p> + +<p>Wednesday 16, about thirty Mandans, among whom six +were chiefs came to see us, the Minnetarees reproached +them with their falsehoods, declaring that they were bad +men and ought to hide themselves. They had told the Minnetarees +that we would kill them if they came to the fort, +yet on the contrary they had spent a night there and been +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_155" id="Pg_155" title="Pg_155">[155]</a></span>treated with kindness by the whites, who had smoked with +them and danced for their amusement. Kagohami visited +us and brought us a little corn, and soon afterwards one of +the first war chiefs of the Minnetarees came accompanied +by his squaw, a handsome woman, whom he was desirous +we should use during the night. He favoured us with a more +acceptable present, a draft of the Missouri in his manner, +and informed us of his intention to go to war in the spring +against the Snake Indians; we advised him to reflect seriously +before he committed the peace of his nation to the +hazards of war; to look back on the numerous nations whom +war has destroyed, that if he wished his nation to be happy +he should cultivate peace and intercourse with all his neighbours, +by which means they would procure more horses, increase +in numbers, and that if he went to war he would displease +his great father the president, and forfeit his protection. +We added that we had spoken thus to all the tribes +whom we had met, that they had all opened their ears, and +that the president would compel those who did not voluntarily +listen to his advice. Although a young man of only +twenty-six years of age, this discourse seemed to strike him. +He observed that if it would be displeasing to us he would +not go to war, since he had horses enough, and that he would +advise all the nation to remain at home, until we had seen +the Snake Indians, and discovered whether their intentions +were pacific. The party who went down with the horses for +the man who was frostbitten returned, and we are glad to +find his complaint not serious.</p> + +<p>Thursday 17. The day was very windy from the north; +the morning clear and cold, the thermometer at sunrise being +at 0: we had several Indians with us.</p> + +<p>Friday 18. The weather is fine and moderate. Messrs. +Laroche and M‘Kenzie, two of the N.W. company's traders, +visited us with some of the Minnetarees. In the afternoon +two of our hunters returned, having killed four wolves and +a blaireau.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_156" id="Pg_156" title="Pg_156">[156]</a></span>Saturday 19. Another cloudy day. The two traders set +out on their return, and we sent two men with the horses +thirty miles below to the hunting camp.</p> + +<p>Sunday 20. The day fair and cold. A number of Indians +visit us with corn to exchange for articles, and to pay for +repairs to their household utensils.</p> + +<p>Monday 21. The weather was fine and moderate. The +hunters all returned, having killed during their absence +three elk, four deer, two porcupines, a fox and a hare.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 22. The cold having moderated and the day +pleasant, we attempted to cut the boats out of the ice, but +at the distance of eight inches came to water, under which +the ice became three feet thick, so that we were obliged to +desist.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 23. The cold weather returned, the mercury +having sunk 2° below 0, and the snow fell four inches deep.</p> + +<p>Thursday 24. The day was colder than any we have +had lately, the thermometer being at 12° below 0. The hunters +whom we sent out returned unsuccessful, and the rest +were occupied in cutting wood to make charcoal.</p> + +<p>Friday 25. The thermometer was at 25° below 0, the +Wind from N.W. and the day fair, so that the men were employed +in preparing coal, and cutting the boats out of the ice. +A band of Assiniboins headed by their chief, called by the +French, Son of the Little Calf, have arrived at the villages.</p> + +<p>Saturday 26. A fine warm day: a number of Indians +dine with us: and one of our men is attacked with a violent +pleurisy.</p> + +<p>Sunday 27. Another warm and pleasant day: we again +attempted to get the boat out of the ice. The man who +has the pleurisy was blooded and sweated, and we were +forced to take off the toes of the young Indian who was +frostbitten some time since. Our interpreter returned from the +villages, bringing with him three of Mr. Laroche's horses +which he had sent in order to keep them out of the way of +the Assiniboins, who are very much disposed to steal, and +who have just returned to their camp.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_157" id="Pg_157" title="Pg_157">[157]</a></span>Monday 28. The weather to-day is clear and cold: we +are obliged to abandon the plan of cutting the boat through +the ice, and therefore made another attempt the next day,</p> + +<p>Tuesday 29, by heating a quantity of stones so as to +warm the water in the boat, and thaw the surrounding ice: +but in this too we were disappointed, as all the stones on being +put into the fire cracked into pieces: the weather warm +and pleasant: the man with the pleurisy is recovering.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 30. The morning was fair, but afterwards +became cloudy. Mr. Laroche the trader from the northwest +company paid us a visit, in hopes of being able to accompany +us on our journey westward, but this proposal we thought +it best to decline.</p> + +<p>Thursday 31. It snowed last night, and the morning is +cold and disagreeable, with a high wind from the northwest: +we sent five hunters down the river. Another man is taken +with the pleurisy.</p> + +<p>Friday, February 1. A cold windy day: our hunters returned +having killed only one deer. One of the Minnetaree +war chiefs, a young man named Maubuksheahokeah or Seeing +Snake, came to see us and procure a war hatchet: he +also requested that we would suffer him to go to war against +the Sioux and Ricaras who had killed a Mandan some time +ago: this we refused for reasons which we explained to him. +He acknowledged that we were right, and promised to open +his ears to our counsels.</p> + +<p>Saturday 2. The day is fine: another deer was killed. Mr. +Laroche who has been very anxious to go with us left the +fort to-day, and one of the squaws of the Minnetaree interpreter +is taken ill.</p> + +<p>Sunday 3. The weather is again pleasant: disappointed +in all our efforts to get the boats free, we occupied ourselves +in making iron spikes so as to prize them up by means of +long poles.</p> + +<p>Monday 4. The morning fair and cold, the mercury at +sunrise being 18° below 0, and the wind from the northwest. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_158" id="Pg_158" title="Pg_158">[158]</a></span>The stock of meat which we had procured in November and +December being now nearly exhausted, it became necessary +to renew our supply; captain Clarke therefore took eighteen +men, and with two sleighs and three horses descended +the river for the purpose of hunting, as the buffaloe has +disappeared from our neighbourhood, and the Indians are +themselves suffering for want of meat. Two deer were killed +to-day but they were very lean.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 5. A pleasant fair morning with the wind from +northwest: a number of the Indians come with corn for the +blacksmith, who being now provided with coal has become +one of our greatest resources for procuring grain. They +seem particularly attached to a battle axe, of a very inconvenient +figure: it is made wholly of iron, the blade extremely +thin, and from seven to nine inches long; it is sharp at the +point and five or six inches on each side, whence they converge +towards the eye, which is circular and about an inch +in diameter, the blade itself being not more than an inch +wide, the handle is straight, and twelve or fifteen inches +long; the whole weighing about a pound. By way of ornament, +the blade is perforated with several circular holes. +The length of the blade compared with the shortness of the +handle render it a weapon of very little strength, particularly +as it is always used on horseback: there is still however +another form which is even worse, the same sort of handle +being fixed to a blade resembling an espontoon.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, February 6. The morning was fair and pleasant, +the wind N.W. A number of Indian chiefs visited us +and withdrew after we had smoked with them contrary to +their custom, for after being once introduced into our apartment +they are fond of lounging about during the remainder +of the day. One of the men killed three antelopes. Our +blacksmith has his time completely occupied, so great is the +demand for utensils of different kinds. The Indians are particularly +fond of sheet iron, out of which they form points +for arrows and instruments for scraping hides, and when +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_159" id="Pg_159" title="Pg_159">[159]</a></span>the blacksmith cut up an old cambouse of that metal, we obtained +for every piece of four inches square seven or eight +gallons of corn from the Indians, who were delighted at the +exchange.</p> + +<p>Thursday 7. The morning was fair and much warmer +than for some days, the thermometer being at 18° above 0, +and the wind from the S.E. A number of Indians continue +to visit us; but learning that the interpreter's squaws had +been accustomed to unbar the gate during the night, we ordered +a lock put on it, and that no Indian should remain in +the fort all night, nor any person admitted during the hours +when the gate is closed, that is from sunset to sunrise.</p> + +<p>Friday 8. A fair pleasant morning, with S.E. winds. +Pocopsahe came down to the fort with a bow, and apologized +for his not having finished a shield which he had promised +captain Lewis, and which the weather had prevented +him from completing. This chief possesses more firmness, +intelligence, and integrity, than any Indian of this country, +and he might be rendered highly serviceable in our attempts +to civilize the nation. He mentioned that the Mandans are +very much in want of meat, and that he himself had not +tasted any for several days. To this distress they are often +reduced by their own improvidence, or by their unhappy +situation. Their principal article of food is buffaloe-meat, +their corn, beans, and other grain being reserved for summer, +or as a last resource against what they constantly dread, +an attack from the Sioux, who drive off the game and confine +them to their villages. The same fear too prevents their +going out to hunt in small parties to relieve their occasional +wants, so that the buffaloe is generally obtained in large +quantities and wasted by carelessness.</p> + +<p>Saturday 9. The morning was fair and pleasant, the wind +from the S.E. Mr. M‘Kenzie from the N.W. company +establishment visited us.</p> + +<p>Sunday 10. A slight snow fell in the course of the night, +the morning was cloudy, and the northwest wind blew so +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_160" id="Pg_160" title="Pg_160">[160]</a></span>high that although the thermometer was 18° above 0, the +day was cooler than yesterday, when it was only 10° above +the same point. Mr. M‘Kenzie left us, and Chaboneau returned +with information that our horses loaded with meat +were below, but could not cross the ice not being shod.</p> + +<p>Monday 11. We sent down a party with sleds, to relieve +the horses from their loads; the weather fair and cold, with +a N.W. wind. About five o'clock one of the wives of Chaboneau +was delivered of a boy; this being her first child she +was suffering considerable, when Mr. Jessaume told captain +Lewis that he had frequently administered to persons in her +situation, a small dose of the rattle of the rattlesnake which +had never failed to hasten the delivery. Having some of +the rattle, captain Lewis gave it to Mr. Jessaume who crumbled +two of the rings of it between his fingers, and mixing +it with a small quantity of water gave it to her. What effect +it may really have had it might be difficult to determine, +but captain Lewis was informed that she had not taken +it more than ten minutes before the delivery took place.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 12. The morning is fair though cold, the mercury +being 14° below 0 the wind from the S.E. About +four o'clock the horses were brought in much fatigued; on +giving them meal bran moistened with water they would +not eat it, but preferred the bark of the cottonwood, which +as is already observed forms their principal food during the +winter. The horses of the Mandans are so often stolen by +the Sioux, Ricaras, and Assiniboins, that the invariable rule +now is to put the horses every night in the same lodge with +the family. In the summer they ramble in the plains in the +vicinity of the camp, and feed on the grass, but during cold +weather the squaws cut down the cottonwood trees as they +are wanted, and the horses feed on the boughs and bark of +the tender branches, which are also brought into the lodges +at night and placed near them. These animals are very severely +treated; for whole days they are pursuing the buffaloe, +or burdened with the fruits of the chase, during which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_161" id="Pg_161" title="Pg_161">[161]</a></span>they scarcely ever taste food, and at night return to a scanty +allowance of wood; yet the spirit of this valuable animal +sustains him through all these difficulties, and he is rarely +deficient either in flesh or vigour.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 13. The morning was cloudy, the thermometer +at 2° below 0, the wind from the southeast. Captain +Clarke returned last evening with all his hunting party: +during their excursion they had killed forty deer, three +buffaloe, and sixteen elk; but most of the game was too lean +for use, and the wolves, who regard whatever lies out at +night as their own, had appropriated a large part of it: when +he left the fort on the 4th instant, he descended on the ice +twenty-two miles to New Mandan island, near some of their +old villages, and encamped, having killed nothing, and therefore +without food for the night.</p> + +<p>Early on the 5th, the hunters went out and killed two +buffaloe and a deer, but the last only could be used, the +others being too lean. After breakfast they proceeded down +to an Indian lodge and hunted during the day: the next +morning, 6th, they encamped forty-four miles from the fort +on a sand point near the mouth of a creek on the southwest +side, which they call Hunting creek, and during this and +the following day hunted through all the adjoining plains, +with much success, having killed a number of deer and elk. +On the 8th, the best of the meat was sent with the horses +to the fort, and such parts of the remainder as were fit for +use were brought to a point of the river three miles below, +and after the bones were taken out, secured in pens built of +logs, so as to keep off the wolves, ravens and magpies, who +are very numerous and constantly disappoint the hunter of +his prey: they then went to the low grounds near the Chisshetaw +river where they encamped, but saw nothing except +some wolves on the hills, and a number of buffaloe too +poor to be worth hunting. The next morning 9th, as there +was no game and it would have been inconvenient to send it +back sixty miles to the fort, they returned up the river, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_162" id="Pg_162" title="Pg_162">[162]</a></span>for three days hunted along the banks and plains, and reached +the fort in the evening of the twelfth much fatigued, having +walked thirty miles that day on the ice and through +the snow in many places knee deep, the moccasins too being +nearly worn out: the only game which they saw besides +what is mentioned, was some growse on the sandbars in the +river.</p> + +<p>Thursday 14. Last night the snow fell three inches deep; +the day was, however, fine. Four men were despatched with +sleds and three horses to bring up the meat which had been +collected by the hunters. They returned however, with intelligence +that about twenty-one miles below the fort a +party of upwards of one hundred men, whom they supposed +to be Sioux, rushed on them, cut the traces of the sleds, and +carried off two of the horses, the third being given up by +intercession of an Indian who seemed to possess some authority +over them; they also took away two of the men's +knifes, and a tomahawk, which last however they returned. +We sent up to the Mandans to inform them of it, and to +know whether any of them would join a party which intended +to pursue the robbers in the morning. About twelve +o'clock two of their chiefs came down and said that all their +young men were out hunting, and that there were few guns +in the village. Several Indians however, armed some with +bows and arrows, some with spears and battle-axes, and two +with fusils, accompanied captain Lewis, who set out,</p> + +<p>Friday 15, at sunrise with twenty-four men. The morning +was fine and cool, the thermometer being at 16° below 0. +In the course of the day one of the Mandan chiefs returned +from captain Lewis's party, his eye-sight having become +so bad that he could not proceed. At this season of the +year the reflexion from the ice and snow is so intense as to +occasion almost total blindness. This complaint is very +common, and the general remedy is to sweat the part affected +by holding the face over a hot stone, and receiving +the fumes from snow thrown on it. A large red fox was killed +to-day.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_163" id="Pg_163" title="Pg_163">[163]</a></span>Saturday 16. The morning was warm, mercury at 32° +above 0, the weather cloudy: several of the Indians who +went with captain Lewis returned, as did also one of our men, +whose feet had been frostbitten.</p> + +<p>Sunday 17. The weather continued as yesterday, though +in the afternoon it became fair. Shotawhorora and his son +came to see us, with about thirty pounds of dried buffaloe +meat and some tallow.</p> + +<p>Monday 18. The morning was cloudy with some snow, +but in the latter part of the day it cleared up. Mr. M‘Kenzie +who had spent yesterday at the fort now left us. Our +stock of meat is exhausted, so that we must confine ourselves +to vegetable diet, at least till the return of the party: +for this, however, we are at no loss, since both on this and +the following day,</p> + +<p>Tuesday 19, our blacksmith got large quantities of corn +from the Indians who came in great numbers to see us. +The weather was fair and warm, the wind from the south.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 20th. The day was delightfully fine; the +mercury being at sunrise 2° and in the course of the day 22° +above 0, the wind southerly. Kagohami came down to see +us early: his village is afflicted by the death of one of their +eldest men, who from his account to us must have seen one +hundred and twenty winters. Just as he was dying, he +requested his grandchildren to dress him in his best robe +when he was dead, and then carry him on a hill and seat +him on a stone, with his face down the river towards their +old villages, that he might go straight to his brother who +had passed before him to the ancient village under ground. +We have seen a number of Mandans who have lived to a +great age; chiefly however the men, whose robust exercises +fortify the body, while the laborious occupations of the +women shorten their existence.</p> + +<p>Thursday 21. We had a continuation of the same +pleasant weather. Oheenaw and Shahaka came down to see +us, and mentioned that several of their countrymen had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_164" id="Pg_164" title="Pg_164">[164]</a></span>gone to consult their medicine stone as to the prospects of +the following year. This medicine stone is the great oracle +of the Mandans, and whatever it announces is believed with +implicit confidence. Every spring, and on some occasions +during the summer, a deputation visits the sacred spot, +where there is a thick porous stone twenty-feet in circumference, +with a smooth surface. Having reached the place +the ceremony of smoking to it is performed by the deputies, +who alternately take a whiff themselves and then present the +pipe to the stone; after this they retire to an adjoining wood +for the night, during which it may be safely presumed that +all the embassy do not sleep; and in the morning they read +the destinies of the nation in the white marks on the stone, +which those who made them are at no loss to decypher. +The Minnetarees have a stone of a similar kind, which has +the same qualities and the same influence over the nation. +Captain Lewis returned from his excursion in pursuit of the +Indians. On reaching the place where the Sioux had stolen +our horses, they found only one sled, and several pair of +moccasins which were recognised to be those of the Sioux. +The party then followed the Indian tracks till they reached +two old lodges where they slept, and the next morning pursued +the course of the river till they reached some Indian +camps, where captain Clarke passed the night some time +ago, and which the Sioux had now set on fire, leaving a little +corn near the place in order to induce a belief that they +were Ricaras. From this point the Sioux tracks left the +river abruptly and crossed into the plains; but perceiving +that there was no chance of overtaking them, captain Lewis +went down to the pen where captain Clarke had left some +meat, which he found untouched by the Indians, and then +hunted in the low grounds on the river, till he returned with +about three thousand pounds of meat, some drawn in a sled +by fifteen of the men, and the rest on horseback; having +killed thirty-six deer, fourteen elk, and one wolf.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_165" id="Pg_165" title="Pg_165">[165]</a></span>Friday, 22nd. The morning was cloudy and a little snow +fell, but in the afternoon the weather became fair. We were +visited by a number of Indians, among whom was Shotawhorora, +a chief of much consideration among the Mandan, +although by birth a Ricara.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 23d. The day is warm and pleasant. Having +worked industriously yesterday and all this morning we +were enabled to disengage one of the periogues and haul +it on shore, and also nearly to cut out the second. The +father of the boy whose foot had been so badly frozen, and +whom we had now cured, came to-day and carried him +home in a sleigh.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 24th. The weather is again fine. We succeeded +in loosening the second periogue and barge, though +we found a leak in the latter. The whole of the next day,</p> + +<p>Monday, 25th, we were occupied in drawing up the +boats on the bank: the smallest one we carried there with +no difficulty, but the barge was too heavy for our elk-skin +ropes which constantly broke. We were visited by Orupsehara, +or Black Moccasin, and several other chiefs, who +brought us presents of meat on the backs of their squaws, +and one of the Minnetarees requested and obtained permission +for himself and his two wives to remain all night +in the fort. The day was exceedingly pleasant.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 26. The weather is again fine. By great labour +during the day we got all the boats on the bank by sunset, +an operation which attracted a great number of Indians +to the fort.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 27. The weather continues fine. All of us +employed in preparing tools to build boats for our voyage, +as we find that small periogues will be much more convenient +than the barge in ascending the Missouri.</p> + +<p>Thursday 28. The day is clear and pleasant. Sixteen +men were sent out to examine the country for trees suitable +for boats, and were successful in finding them. Two of the +N.W. company traders arrived with letters; they had likewise +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_166" id="Pg_166" title="Pg_166">[166]</a></span>a root which is used for the cure of persons bitten by +mad dogs, snakes, and other venomous animals: it is found on +high grounds and the sides of hills, and the mode of using it is +to scarify the wound, and apply to it an inch or more of the +chewed or pounded root, which is to be renewed twice a day; +the patient must not however chew or swallow any of the +root, as an inward application might be rather injurious +than beneficial.</p> + +<p>Mr. Gravelines with two Frenchmen and two Indians arrived +from the Ricara nation, with letters from Mr. Anthony +Tabeau. This last gentleman informs us that the Ricaras +express their determination to follow our advice, and to +remain at peace with the Mandans and Minnetarees, whom +they are desirous of visiting; they also wish to know whether +these nations would permit the Ricaras to settle near them, +and form a league against their common enemies the Sioux. +On mentioning this to the Mandans they agreed to it, observing +that they always desired to cultivate friendship with +the Ricaras, and that the Ahnahaways and Minnetarees have +the same friendly views.</p> + +<p>Mr. Gravelines states that the band of Tetons whom we +had seen was well disposed to us, owing to the influence of +their chief the Black Buffaloe; but that the three upper +bands of Tetons, with the Sisatoons, and the Yanktons of the +north, mean soon to attack the Indians in this quarter, with +a resolution to put to death every white man they encounter. +Moreover, that Mr. Cameron of St. Peter's has armed +the Sioux against the Chippeways, who have lately put to +death three of his men. The men who had stolen our horses +we found to be all Sioux, who after committing the outrage +went to the Ricara villages, where they said that they had +hesitated about killing our men who were with the horses, +but that in future they would put to death any of us they +could, as we were bad medicines and deserved to be killed. +The Ricaras were displeased at their conduct and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_167" id="Pg_167" title="Pg_167">[167]</a></span>refused to give them any thing to eat, which is deemed +the greatest act of hostility short of actual violence.</p> + +<p>Friday, March 1. The day is fine, and the whole party is +engaged, some in making ropes and periogues, others in burning +coal, and making battle axes to sell for corn.</p> + +<p>Saturday 2. Mr. Laroche one of the N.W. company's traders +has just arrived with merchandise from the British establishments +on the Assiniboin. The day is fine, and the +river begins to break up in some places, the mercury being +between 28° and 36° above 0, and the wind from the N.E. +We were visited by several Indians.</p> + +<p>Sunday 3. The weather pleasant, the wind from the E. +with clouds; in the afternoon the clouds disappeared and the +wind came from the N.W. The men are all employed in +preparing the boats; we are visited by Poscapsahe and several +other Indians with corn. A flock of ducks passed up the +river to-day.</p> + +<p>Monday 4. A cloudy morning with N.W. wind, the latter +part of the day clear. We had again some Indian visitors +with a small present of meat. The Assiniboins, who a few +days since visited the Mandans, returned, and attempted to +take horses from the Minnetarees, who fired on them; a circumstance +which may occasion some disturbance between +the two nations.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 5. About four o'clock in the morning there was +a slight fall of snow, but the day became clear and pleasant +with the mercury 40° above 0. We sent down an Indian and +a Frenchman to the Ricara villages with a letter to Mr. +Tabeau.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 6. The day was cloudy and smoky in consequence +of the burning of the plains by the Minnetarees; +they have set all the neighbouring country on fire in order +to obtain an early crop of grass which may answer for the +consumption of their horses, and also as an inducement for +the buffaloe and other game to visit it. The horses stolen +two days ago by the Assiniboins have been returned to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_168" id="Pg_168" title="Pg_168">[168]</a></span>Minnetarees. Ohhaw second chief of the lower Minnetaree +village came to see us. The river rose a little and overran +the ice, so as to render the crossing difficult.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 7th. The day was somewhat cloudy, and +colder than usual; the wind from the northeast. Shotawhorora +visited us with a sick child, to whom some medicine +was administered. There were also other Indians who +brought corn and dried buffaloe meat in exchange for blacksmith's +work.</p> + +<p>Friday 8. The day cold and fair with a high easterly +wind: we were visited by two Indians who gave us an account +of the country and people near the Rocky mountains +where they had been.</p> + +<p>Saturday 9. The morning cloudy and cool, the wind from +the north. The grand chief of the Minnetarees, who is called +by the French Le Borgne, from his having but one eye, +came down for the first time to the fort. He was received +with much attention, two guns were fired in honour of his +arrival, the curiosities were exhibited to him, and as he said +that he had not received the presents which we had sent to +him on his arrival, we again gave him a flag, a medal, shirt, +armbraces and the usual presents on such occasions, with all +which he was much pleased. In the course of the conversation, +the chief observed that some foolish young men of his +nation had told him there was a person among us who was +quite black, and he wished to know if it could be true. We +assured him that it was true, and sent for York: the Borgne +was very much surprised at his appearance, examined him +closely, and spit on his finger and rubbed the skin in order +to wash off the paint; nor was it until the negro uncovered +his head, and showed his short hair, that the Borgne could +be persuaded that he was not a painted white man.</p> + +<p>Sunday 10. A cold windy day. Tetuckopinreha, chief +of the Ahnahaways, and the Minnetaree chief Ompsehara, +passed the day with us, and the former remained during the +night. We had occasion to see an instance of the summary +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_169" id="Pg_169" title="Pg_169">[169]</a></span>justice of the Indians: a young Minnetaree had carried off +the daughter of Cagonomokshe, the Raven Man, second chief +of the upper village of the Mandans; the father went to the +village and found his daughter, whom he brought home, +and took with him a horse belonging to the offender: this +reprisal satisfied the vengeance of the father and of the nation, +as the young man would not dare to reclaim his horse, +which from that time became the property of the injured +party. The stealing of young women is one of the most common +offenses against the police of the village, and the punishment +of it always measured by the power or the passions +of the kindred of the female. A voluntary elopement is of +course more rigorously chastised. One of the wives of the +Borgne deserted him in favour of a man who had been her +lover before the marriage, and who after some time left +her, and she was obliged to return to her father's house. +As soon as he heard it the Borgne walked there and found +her sitting near the fire: without noticing his wife, he began +to smoke with the father; when they were joined by the +old men of the village, who knowing his temper had followed +in hopes of appeasing him. He continued to smoke quietly +with them, till rising to return, he took his wife by +the hair, led her as far as the door, and with a single stroke +of his tomahawk put her to death before her father's eyes: +then turning fiercely upon the spectators, he said that if +any of her relations wished to avenge her, they might always +find him at his lodge; but the fate of the woman had +not sufficient interest to excite the vengeance of the family. +The caprice or the generosity of the same chief gave a very +different result to a similar incident which occurred some +time afterwards. Another of his wives eloped with a young +man, who not being able to support her as she wished they +both returned to the village, and she presented herself before +the husband, supplicating his pardon for her conduct: +the Borgne sent for the lover: at the moment when the +youth expected that he would be put to death, the chief +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_170" id="Pg_170" title="Pg_170">[170]</a></span>mildly asked them if they still preserved their affection for +each other; and on their declaring that want, and not a +change of affection had induced them to return, he gave up +his wife to her lover, with the liberal present of three horses, +and restored them both to his favour.</p> + +<p>Monday 11. The weather was cloudy in the morning +and a little snow fell, the wind then shifted from southeast +to northwest and the day became fair. It snowed again in +the evening, but the next day,</p> + +<p>Tuesday 12, was fair with the wind from the northwest.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 13. We had a fine day, and a southwest wind. +Mr. M‘Kenzie came to see us, as did also many Indians who +are so anxious for battle-axes that our smiths have not a +moment's leisure, and procure us an abundance of corn. The +river rose a little to-day, and so continued.</p> + +<p>Thursday 14. The wind being from the west, and the +day fine, the whole party were employed in building boats +and in shelling corn.</p> + +<p>Friday 15. The day is clear, pleasant and warm. We +take advantage of the fine weather to hang all our Indian +presents and other articles out to dry before our departure.</p> + +<p>Saturday 16. The weather is cloudy, the wind from the +southeast. A Mr. Garrow, a Frenchman who has resided a +long time among the Ricaras and Mandans, explained to us +the mode in which they make their large beads, an art +which they are said to have derived from some prisoners +of the Snake Indian nation, and the knowledge of which is +a secret even now confined to a few among the Mandans +and Ricaras: the process is as follows: glass of different colours +is first pounded fine and washed, till each kind, which +is kept separate, ceases to stain the water thrown over it: +some well seasoned clay, mixed with a sufficient quantity of +sand to prevent its becoming very hard when exposed to +heat, and reduced by water to the consistency of dough, is +then rolled on the palm of the hand, till it becomes of the +thickness wanted for the hole in the bead; these sticks of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_171" id="Pg_171" title="Pg_171">[171]</a></span>clay are placed upright, each on a little pedestal or ball of +the same material about an ounce in weight, and distributed +over a small earthen platter, which is laid on the fire +for a few minutes, when they are taken off to cool: with +a little paddle or shovel three or four inches long and sharpened +at the end of the handle, the wet pounded glass is +placed in the palm of the hand: the beads are made of an +oblong form wrapped in a cylindrical form round the stick +of clay which is laid crosswise over it, and gently rolled +backwards and forwards till it becomes perfectly smooth. +If it be desired to introduce any other colour, the surface +of the bead is perforated with the pointed end of the paddle +and the cavity filled with pounded glass of that colour: the +sticks with the string of beads are then replaced on their +pedestals, and the platter deposited on burning coals or hot +embers: over the platter an earthern pot containing about +three gallons, with a mouth large enough to cover the platter, +is reversed, being completely closed except a small +aperture at the top, through which are watched the bead: +a quantity of old dried wood formed into a sort of dough +or paste is placed round the pot so as almost to cover it, and +afterwards set on fire: the manufacturer then looks through +the small hole in the pot, till he sees the beads assume a +deep red colour, to which succeeds a paler or whitish red, +or they become pointed at the upper extremity; on which +the fire is removed and the pot suffered to cool gradually: +at length it is removed, the beads taken out, the clay in the +hollow of them picked out with an awl or needle, and it is +then fit for use. The beads thus formed are in great demand +among the Indians, and used as pendants to their ears and +hair, and are sometimes worn round the neck.</p> + +<p>Sunday 17. A windy but clear and pleasant day, the +river rising a little and open in several places. Our Minnetaree +interpreter Chaboneau, whom we intended taking +with us to the Pacific, had some days ago been worked +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_172" id="Pg_172" title="Pg_172">[172]</a></span>upon by the British traders, and appeared unwilling to accompany +us, except on certain terms; such as his not being +subject to our orders, and do duty, or to return whenever he +chose. As we saw clearly the source of his hesitation, and +knew that it was intended as an obstacle to our views, we +told him that the terms were inadmissible, and that we +could dispense with his services: he had accordingly left us +with some displeasure. Since then he had made an advance +towards joining us, which we showed no anxiety to meet; +but this morning he sent an apology for his improper conduct, +and agreed to go with us and perform the same duties +as the rest of the corps; we therefore took him again into +our service.</p> + +<p>Monday 18. The weather was cold and cloudy, the wind +from the north. We were engaged in packing up the goods +into eight divisions, so as to preserve a portion of each in +case of accident. We hear that the Sioux have lately attacked +a party of Assiniboins and Knistenaux, near the Assiniboin +river, and killed fifty of them.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 19. Some snow fell last night, and this morning +was cold, windy, and cloudy. Shahaka and Kagohami came +down to see us, as did another Indian with a sick child, to +whom we gave some medicine. There appears to be an approaching +war, as two parties have already gone from the +Minnetarees, and a third is preparing.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 20. The morning was cold and cloudy, the wind +high from the north, but the afternoon was pleasant. The +canoes being finished, four of them were carried down to the +river, at the distance of a mile and a half from where they +were constructed.</p> + +<p>Thursday 20. The remaining periogues were hauled to +the same place, and all the men except three, who were left +to watch them returned to the fort. On his way down, +which was about six miles, captain Clarke passed along the +points of the high hills, where he saw large quantities of pumicestone +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_173" id="Pg_173" title="Pg_173">[173]</a></span>on the foot, sides and tops of the hills, which had +every appearance of having been at some period on fire. He +collected specimens of the stone itself, the pumicestone, +and the hard earth; and on being put into the furnace the +hard earth melted and glazed, the pumicestone melted, and +the hardstone became a pumicestone glazed.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_174" id="Pg_174" title="Pg_174">[174]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Indian method of attacking the buffaloe on the ice—An enumeration of the presents +sent to the president of the United States—The party are visited by a Ricara +chief—They leave their encampment, and proceed on their journey—description +of the Little Missouri—Some account of the Assiniboins—Their mode +of burying the dead—Whiteearth river described—Great quantity of salt discovered +on its banks—Yellowstone river described—A particular account of +the country at the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri—Description of +the Missouri, the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, &c.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>Friday 22. This was a clear pleasant day, with the wind +from the S.S.W. We were visited by the second chief of the +Minnetarees, to whom we gave a medal and some presents, +accompanied by a speech. Mr. M‘Kenzie and Mr. Laroche +also came to see us. They all took their leave next day.</p> + +<p>Saturday 23. Soon after their departure, a brother of +the Borgne with other Indians came to the fort. The weather +was fine, but in the evening we had the first rain that +has fallen during the winter.</p> + +<p>Sunday 24. The morning cloudy, but the afternoon fair, +the wind from the N.E. We are employed in preparing for +our journey. This evening swans and wild geese flew towards +the N.E.</p> + +<p>Monday 25. A fine day, the wind S.W. The river rose +nine inches, and the ice began breaking away in several places, +so as to endanger our canoes which we are hauling down +to the fort.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 26. The river rose only half an inch, and being +choaked up with ice near the fort, did not begin to run till +towards evening. This day is clear and pleasant.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 27. The wind is still high from the S.W.: the +ice which is ocasionally stopped for a few hours is then +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_175" id="Pg_175" title="Pg_175">[175]</a></span>thrown over shallow sandbars when the river runs. We had +all our canoes brought down, and were obliged to cauk and +pitch very attentively the cracks so common in cottonwood.</p> + +<p>Thursday 28. The day is fair. Some obstacle above has +prevented the ice from running. Our canoes are now nearly +ready, and we expect to set out as soon as the river is sufficiently +clear to permit us to pass.</p> + +<p>Friday 29. The weather clear, and the wind from N.W. +The obstruction above gave way this morning, and the ice +came down in great quantities; the river having fallen eleven +inches in the course of the last twenty-four hours. We have +had few Indians at the fort for the last three or four days, +as they are now busy in catching the floating buffaloe. Every +spring as the river is breaking up the surrounding plains +are set on fire, and the buffaloe tempted to cross the river +in search of the fresh grass which immediately succeeds to +the burning: on their way they are often insulated on a large +cake or mass of ice, which floats down the river: the Indians +now select the most favourable points for attack, and +as the buffaloe approaches dart with astonishing agility +across the trembling ice, sometimes pressing lightly a cake +of not more than two feet square: the animal is of course +unsteady, and his footsteps insecure on this new element, so +that he can make but little resistance, and the hunter, who +has given him his death wound, paddles his icy boat to the +shore and secures his prey.</p> + +<p>Saturday 30. The day was clear and pleasant, the wind +N.W. and the ice running in great quantities. All our Indian +presents were again exposed to the air, and the barge +made ready to descend the Missouri.</p> + +<p>Monday 31. Early this morning it rained, and the weather +continued cloudy during the day; the river rose nine +inches, the ice not running so much as yesterday. Several +flocks of geese and ducks fly up the river.</p> + +<p>Monday, April 1, 1805. This morning there was a thunder +storm, accompanied with large hail, to which succeeded +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_176" id="Pg_176" title="Pg_176">[176]</a></span>rain for about half an hour. We availed ourselves of this interval +to get all the boats in the water. At four o'clock +P.M. it began to rain a second time, and continued till twelve +at night. With the exception of a few drops at two or three +different times, this is the first rain we have had since the +15th of October last.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 2. The wind was high last night and this morning +from N.W. and the weather continued cloudy. The +Mandans killed yesterday twenty-one elk, about fifteen +miles below, but they were so poor as to be scarcely fit for +use.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 3. The weather is pleasant, though there +was a white frost and some ice on the edge of the water. +We were all engaged in packing up our baggage and merchandize.</p> + +<p>Thursday 4. The day is clear and pleasant, though the +wind is high from N.W. We now packed up in different +boxes a variety of articles for the president, which we shall +send in the barge. They consisted of a stuffed male and female +antelope with their skeletons, a weasel, three squirrels +from the Rocky mountains, the skeleton of the prairie wolf, +those of the white and gray hare, a male and female blaireau, +or burrowing dog of the prairie, with a skeleton of the +female, two burrowing squirrels, a white weasel, and the +skin of the louservia, the horns of the mountain ram, or +big-horn, a pair of large elk horns, the horns and tail of the +black-tailed deer, and a variety of skins, such as those of +the red fox, white hare, martin, yellow bear obtained from +the Sioux; also, a number of articles of Indian dress, among +which was a buffaloe robe, representing a battle fought +about eight years since between the Sioux and Ricaras +against the Mandans and Minnetarees, in which the combatants +are represented on horseback. It has of late years excited +much discussion to ascertain the period when the art +of painting was first discovered: how hopeless all researches +of this kind are, is evident from the foregoing fact. It is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_177" id="Pg_177" title="Pg_177">[177]</a></span>indebted for its origin to one of the strongest passions of the +human heart; a wish to preserve the features of a departed +friend, or the memory of some glorious exploit: this inherits +equally the bosoms of all men either civilized or savage. +Such sketches, rude and imperfect as they are, delineate the +predominant character of the savage nations. If they are +peaceable and inoffensive, the drawings usually consist of local +scenery, and their favourite diversions. If the band are +rude and ferocious, we observe tomahawks, scalpingknives, +bows, arrows, and all the engines of destruction. A Mandan +bow and quiver of arrows; also some Ricara tobacco-seed +and an ear of Mandan corn; to these were added a box of +plants, another of insects, and three cases containing a burrowing +squirrel; a prairie hen, and four magpies, all alive.</p> + +<p>Friday, 5th. Fair and pleasant, but the wind high from +the northwest: we were visited by a number of Mandans, +and are occupied in loading our boats in order to proceed on +our journey.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 6th. Another fine day with a gentle breeze +from the south. The Mandans continue to come to the fort; +and in the course of the day informed us of the arrival of a +party of Ricaras on the other side of the river. We sent +our interpreter to inquire into their reason for coming; and +in the morning,</p> + +<p>Sunday, 7th, he returned with a Ricara chief and three +of his nation. The chief, whose name is Kagohweto, or +Brave Raven, brought a letter from Mr. Tabeau, mentioning +the wish of the grand chiefs of the Ricaras to visit the +president, and requesting permission for himself and four +men to join our boat when it descends; to which we consented, +as it will then be manned with fifteen hands and be +able to defend itself against the Sioux. After presenting +the letter, he told us that he was sent with ten warriors by +his nation to arrange their settling near the Mandans and +Minnetarees, whom they wished to join; that he considered +all the neighboring nations friendly except the Sioux, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_178" id="Pg_178" title="Pg_178">[178]</a></span>whose persecution they would no longer withstand, and +whom they hoped to repel by uniting with the tribes in this +quarter: he added that the Ricaras intended to follow our +advice and live in peace with all nations, and requested that +we would speak in their favour to the Assiniboin Indians. +This we willingly promised to do, and assured them that +their great father would protect them and no longer suffer +the Sioux to have good guns, or to injure his dutiful children. +We then gave him a small medal, a certificate of his +good conduct, a carrot of tobacco, and some wampum, with +which he departed for the Mandan village well satisfied +with his reception. Having made all our arrangements, we +left the fort about five o'clock in the afternoon. The party +now consisted of thirty-two persons. Besides ourselves were +serjeants John Ordway, Nathaniel Pryor, and Patrick Gass: +the privates were William Bratton, John Colter, John Collins, +Peter Cruzatte, Robert Frazier, Reuben Fields, Joseph +Fields, George Gibson, Silas Goodrich, Hugh Hall, +Thomas P. Howard, Baptiste Lapage, Francis Labiche, +Hugh M‘Neal, John Potts, John Shields, George Shannon, +John B. Thompson, William Werner, Alexander Willard, +Richard Windsor, Joseph Whitehouse, Peter Wiser, and +captain Clarke's black servant York. The two interpreters, +were George Drewyer and Toussaint Chaboneau. The +wife of Chaboneau also accompanied us with her young child, +and we hope may be useful as an interpreter among the +Snake Indians. She was herself one of that tribe, but having +been taken in war by the Minnetarees, by whom she was +sold as a slave to Chaboneau, who brought her up and afterwards +married her. One of the Mandans likewise embarked +with us, in order to go to the Snake Indians and obtain a +peace with them for his countrymen. All this party with +the baggage was stowed in six small canoes and two large +periogues. We left the fort with fair pleasant weather though +the northwest wind was high, and after making about four +miles encamped on the north side of the Missouri, nearly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_179" id="Pg_179" title="Pg_179">[179]</a></span>opposite the first Mandan village. At the same time that we +took our departure, our barge manned with seven soldiers, +two Frenchmen, and Mr. Gravelines as pilot, sailed for the +United States loaded with our presents and despatches.</p> + +<p>Monday, 8th. The day was clear and cool, the wind +from the northwest, so that we travelled slowly. After +breakfasting at the second Mandan village we passed the +Mahaha at the mouth of Knife river, a handsome stream +about eighty yards wide. Beyond this we reached the island +which captain Clarke had visited on the 30th October. +This island has timber as well as the lowlands on the north, +but its distance from the water had prevented our encamping +there during the winter. From the head of this island +we made three and a half miles to a point of wood on the +north, passing a high bluff on the south, and having come +about fourteen miles. In the course of the day one of our +boats filled and was near sinking; we however saved her +with the loss of a little biscuit and powder.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, April 9. We set off as soon as it was light, and +proceeded five miles to breakfast, passing a low ground on +the south, covered with groves of cottonwood timber. At +the distance of six miles, we reached on the north a hunting +camp of Minnetarees consisting of thirty lodges, and built +in the usual form of earth and timber. Two miles and a +quarter farther, comes in on the same side Miry creek, a +small stream about ten yards wide, which, rising in some +lakes near the Mouse river, passes through beautiful level +fertile plains without timber in a direction nearly southwest; +the banks near its entrance being steep, and rugged on both +sides of the Missouri. Three miles above this creek we came +to a hunting party of Minnetarees, who had prepared a park +or inclosure and were waiting the return of the antelope: +this animal, which in the autumn retires for food and shelter +to the Black mountains during the winter, recross the +river at this season of the year, and spread themselves +through the plains on the north of the Missouri. We halted +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_180" id="Pg_180" title="Pg_180">[180]</a></span>and smoked a short time with them, and then proceeded +on through handsome plains on each side of the river, and +encamped at the distance of twenty-three and a half miles +on the north side: the day was clear and pleasant, the wind +high from the south, but afterwards changed to a western +steady breeze. The bluffs which we passed to-day are upwards +of one hundred feet high, composed of a mixture of +yellow clay and sand, with many horizontal strata of carbonated +wood resembling pit-coal, from one to five feet in +depth, and scattered through the bluff at different elevations, +some as high as eighty feet above the water: the hills +along the river are broken, and present every appearance +of having been burned at some former period; great quantities +of pumicestone and lava or rather earth, which seems +to have been boiled and then hardened by exposure, being +seen in many parts of these hills where they are broken +and washed down into gullies by the rain and melting +snow. A great number of brants pass up the river: there +are some of them perfectly white, except the large feathers +of the first and second joint of the wing which are black, +though in every other characteristic they resemble common +gray brant: we also saw but could not procure an animal +that burrows in the ground, and similar in every respect +to the burrowing squirrel, except that it is only one third +of its size. This may be the animal whose works we have +often seen in the plains and prairies; they resemble the labours +of the salamander in the sand hills of South Carolina +and Georgia, and like him, the animals rarely come above +ground; they consist of a little hillock of ten or twelve +pounds of loose ground which would seem to have been reversed +from a pot, though no aperture is seen through which +it could have been thrown: on removing gently the earth, +you discover that the soil has been broken in a circle of +about an inch and a half diameter, where the ground is looser +though still no opening is perceptible. When we stopped +for dinner the squaw went out, and after penetrating with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_181" id="Pg_181" title="Pg_181">[181]</a></span>a sharp stick the holes of the mice, near some drift wood, +brought to us a quantity of wild artichokes, which the mice +collect and hoard in large numbers; the root is white, of an +ovate form, from one to three inches long, and generally of +the size of a man's finger, and two, four, and sometimes six +roots are attached to a single stalk. Its flavour as well as +the stalk which issues from it resemble those of the Jerusalem +artichoke, except that the latter is much larger. A +large beaver was caught in a trap last night, and the musquitoes +begin to trouble us.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 10. We again set off early with clear pleasant +weather, and halted about ten for breakfast, above a +sandbank which was falling in, and near a small willow +island. On both sides of the Missouri, after ascending the +hills near the water, one fertile unbroken plain extends itself +as far as the eye can reach, without a solitary tree or +shrub, except in moist situations or in the steep declivities +of hills where they are sheltered from the ravages of fire. +At the distance of twelve miles we reached the lower point +of a bluff on the south; which is in some parts on fire and +throws out quantities of smoke which has a strong sulphurous +smell, the coal and other appearances in the bluffs being +like those described yesterday: at one o'clock we overtook +three Frenchmen who left the fort a few days before +us, in order to make the first attempt on this river of hunting +beaver, which they do by means of traps: their efforts +promise to be successful for they have already caught +twelve which are finer than any we have ever seen: they +mean to accompany us as far as the Yellowstone river in +order to obtain our protection against the Assiniboins who +might attack them. In the evening we encamped on a willow +point to the south opposite to a bluff, above which a +small creek falls in, and just above a remarkable bend in +the river to the southwest, which we called the Little Basin. +The low grounds which we passed to-day possess more +timber than is usual, and are wider: the current is moderate, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_182" id="Pg_182" title="Pg_182">[182]</a></span>at least not greater than that of the Ohio in high +tides; the banks too fall in but little; so that the navigation +comparatively with that lower down the Missouri is safe +and easy. We were enabled to make eighteen and a half +miles: we saw the track of a large white bear, there were +also a herd of antelopes in the plains; the geese and swan +are now feeding in considerable quantities on the young +grass in the low prairies; we shot a prairie hen, and a bald +eagle of which there were many nests in the tall cottonwood +trees; but could procure neither of two elk which were in +the plain. Our old companions the musquitoes have renewed +their visit, and gave us much uneasiness.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 11th. We set out at daylight, and after passing +bare and barren hills on the south, and a plain covered +with timber on the north, breakfasted at five miles distance: +here we were regaled with a deer brought in by the +hunters, which was very acceptable as we had been for +several days without fresh meat; the country between this +and fort Mandan being so frequently disturbed by hunters +that the game has become scarce. We then proceeded with +a gentle breeze from the south which carried the periogues +on very well; the day was however so warm that several of +the men worked with no clothes except round the waist, +which is the less inconvenient as we are obliged to wade in +some places owing to the shallowness of the river. At seven +miles we reached a large sandbar making out from the +north. We again stopped for dinner, after which we went +on to a small plain on the north covered with cottonwood +where we encamped, having made nineteen miles. The +country around is much the same as that we passed yesterday: +on the sides of the hills, and even on the banks of +the rivers, as well as on the sandbars, is a white substance +which appears in considerable quantities on the surface of +the earth, and tastes like a mixture of common salt with +glauber salts: many of the streams which come from the +foot of the hills, are so strongly impregnated with this substance, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_183" id="Pg_183" title="Pg_183">[183]</a></span>that the water has an unpleasant taste and a purgative +effect. A beaver was caught last night by one of the +Frenchmen; we killed two geese, and saw some cranes, the +largest bird of that kind common to the Missouri and Mississippi, +and perfectly white except the large feathers on +the two first joints of the wing which are black. Under a +bluff opposite to our encampment we discovered some Indians +with horses, whom we supposed were Minnetarees, +but the width of the river prevented our speaking to them.</p> + +<p>Friday, 12th. We set off early and passed a high range +of hills on the south side, our periogues being obliged to go +over to the south in order to avoid a sandbank which was +rapidly falling in. At six miles we came to at the lower +side of the entrance of the Little Missouri, where we remained +during the day for the purpose of making celestial +observations. This river empties itself on the south side +of the Missouri, one thousand six hundred and ninety-three +miles from its confluence with the Mississippi. It rises to +the west of the Black mountains, across the northern extremity +of which it finds a narrow rapid passage along high +perpendicular banks, then seeks the Missouri in a northeastern +direction, through a broken country with highlands +bare of timber, and the low grounds particularly supplied +with cottonwood, elm, small ash, box, alder, and an undergrowth +of willow, redwood, sometimes called red or swamp-willow, +the redberry and chokecherry. In its course it +passes near the northwest side of the Turtle mountain, +which is said to be only twelve or fifteen miles from its +mouth in a straight line a little to the south of west, so +that both the Little Missouri and Knife river have been +laid down too far southwest. It enters the Missouri with a +bold current, and is one hundred and thirty-four yards +wide, but its greatest depth is two feet and a half, and this +joined to its rapidity and its sandbars, make the navigation +difficult except for canoes, which may ascend it for a considerable +distance. At the mouth, and as far as we could +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_184" id="Pg_184" title="Pg_184">[184]</a></span>discern from the hills between the two rivers about three +miles from their junction, the country is much broken, the +soil consisting of a deep rich dark coloured loam, intermixed +with a small proportion of fine sand and covered +generally with a short grass resembling blue grass. In its +colour, the nature of its bed, and its general appearance, it +resembles so much the Missouri as to induce a belief that +the countries they water are similar in point of soil. From +the Mandan villages to this place the country is hilly and +irregular, with the same appearance of glauber salts and +carbonated wood, the low grounds smooth, sandy, and partially +covered with cottonwood and small ash; at some distance +back there are extensive plains of a good soil, but +without timber or water.</p> + +<p>We found great quantities of small onions which grow +single, the bulb of an oval form, white, about the size of a +bullet with a leaf resembling that of the chive. On the side +of a neighbouring hill, there is a species of dwarf cedar: it +spreads its limbs along the surface of the earth, which it +almost conceals by its closeness and thickness, and is sometimes +covered by it, having always a number of roots on the +under side, while on the upper are a quantity of shoots which +with their leaves seldom rise higher than six or eight inches; +it is an evergreen, its leaf more delicate than that of +the common cedar, though the taste and smell is the same.</p> + +<p>The country around has been so recently hunted that +the game are extremely shy, so that a white rabbit, two beaver, +a deer, and a bald eagle were all that we could procure. +The weather had been clear, warm, and pleasant in the +morning, but about three we had a squall of high wind and +rain with some thunder, which lasted till after sunset when +it again cleared off.</p> + +<p>Saturday 13. We set out at sunrise, and at nine o'clock +having the wind in our favour went on rapidly past a timbered +low ground on the south, and a creek on the north at the +distance of nine miles, which we called Onion creek, from +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_185" id="Pg_185" title="Pg_185">[185]</a></span>the quantity of that plant which grows in the plains near it: +this creek is about sixteen yards wide at a mile and a half +above its mouth, it discharges more water than is usual for +creeks of that size in this country, but the whole plain +which it waters is totally destitute of timber. The Missouri +itself widens very remarkably just above the junction with +the Little Missouri: immediately at the entrance of the latter, +it is not more than two hundred yards wide, and so shallow +that it may be passed in canoes with setting poles, while +a few miles above it is upwards of a mile in width: ten miles +beyond Onion creek we came to another, discharging itself +on the north in the centre of a deep bend: on ascending it +for about a mile and a half, we found it to be the discharge +of a pond or small lake, which seemed to have been once +the bed of the Missouri: near this lake were the remains of +forty-three temporary lodges which seem to belong to the +Assiniboins, who are now on the river of the same name. +A great number of swan and geese were also in it, and from +this circumstance we named the creek Goose creek, and +the lake by the same name: these geese we observe do not +build their nests on the ground or in sandbars, but in the +tops of lofty cottonwood trees: we saw some elk and buffaloe +to-day but at too great a distance to obtain any of them, +though a number of the carcases of the latter animal are +strewed along the shores, having fallen through the ice, and +been swept along when the river broke up. More bald eagles +are seen on this part of the Missouri than we have previously +met with; the small or common hawk, common in +most parts of the United States, are also found here: great +quantities of geese are feeding in the prairies, and one flock +of white brant or goose with black wings, and some gray +brant with them pass up river, and from their flight +they seem to proceed much farther to the northwest. We +killed two antelopes which were very lean, and caught last +night two beaver: the French hunters who had procured +seven, thinking the neighborhood of the Little Missouri a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_186" id="Pg_186" title="Pg_186">[186]</a></span>convenient hunting ground for that animal, remained behind +there: in the evening we encamped in a beautiful plain +on the north thirty feet above the river, having made twenty-two +and a half miles.</p> + +<p>Sunday 14. We set off early with pleasant and fair weather: +a dog joined us, which we suppose had strayed from +the Assiniboin camp on the lake. At two and a half miles +we passed timbered low grounds and a small creek: in these +low grounds are several uninhabited lodges built with the +boughs of the elm, and the remains of two recent encampments, +which from the hoops of small kegs found in them +we judged could belong to Assiniboins only, as they are the +only Missouri Indians who use spirituous liquors: of these +they are so passionately fond that it forms their chief inducement +to visit the British on the Assiniboin, to whom +they barter for kegs of rum their dried and pounded meat, +their grease, and the skins of large and small wolves, and +small foxes. The dangerous exchange is transported to +their camps with their friends and relations, and soon exhausted +in brutal intoxication: so far from considering +drunkenness as disgraceful, the women and children are +permitted and invited to share in these excesses with their +husbands and fathers, who boast how often their skill and +industry as hunters has supplied them with the means of +intoxication: in this, as in their other habits and customs, +they resemble the Sioux from whom they are descended: +the trade with the Assiniboins and Knistenaux is encouraged +by the British, because it procures provision for their +<i>engages</i> on their return from Rainy lake to the English +river and the Athabasky country where they winter; these +men being obliged during that voyage to pass rapidly +through a country but scantily supplied with game. We +halted for dinner near a large village of burrowing squirrels, +who we observe generally select a southeasterly exposure, +though they are sometimes found in the plains. At +ten and a quarter miles we came to the lower point of an +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_187" id="Pg_187" title="Pg_187">[187]</a></span>island, which from the day of our arrival there we called +Sunday island: here the river washes the bases of the hills +on both sides and above the island, which with its sandbar +extends a mile and a half: two small creeks fall in from the +south; the uppermost of these, which is the largest, we called +Chaboneau's creek, after our interpreter who once encamped +on it several weeks with a party of Indians. Beyond +this no white man had ever been except two Frenchmen, +one of whom Lapage is with us, and who having lost their +way straggled a few miles further, though to what point we +could not ascertain: about a mile and a half beyond this +island we encamped on a point of woodland on the north, +having made in all fourteen miles.</p> + +<p>The Assiniboins have so recently left the river that +game is scarce and shy. One of the hunters shot at an otter +last evening; a buffaloe too was killed, and an elk, both so +poor as to be almost unfit for use; two white bear were also +seen, and a muskrat swimming across the river. The river +continues wide and of about the same rapidity as the ordinary +current of the Ohio. The low grounds are wide, the +moister parts containing timber, the upland extremely broken, +without wood, and in some places seem as if they had +slipped down in masses of several acres in surface. The mineral +appearances of salts, coal, and sulphur, with the burnt hill +and pumicestone continue, and a bituminous water about the +colour of strong lye, with the taste of glauber salts and a +slight tincture of allum. Many geese were feeding in the +prairies, and a number of magpies who build their nest much +like those of the blackbird in trees, and composed of small +sticks, leaves and grass, open at top: the egg is of a bluish +brown color, freckled with reddish brown spots. We also +killed a large hooting owl resembling that of the United +States, except that it was more booted and clad with feathers. +On the hills are many aromatic herbs, resembling in taste, +smell and appearance the sage, hysop, wormwood, southern +wood, juniper and dwarf cedar; a plant also about two or +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_188" id="Pg_188" title="Pg_188">[188]</a></span>three feet high, similar to the camphor in smell and taste, +and another plant of the same size, with a long, narrow, +smooth, soft leaf, of an agreeable smell and flavour, which is +a favourite food of the antelope, whose necks are often perfumed +by rubbing against it.</p> + +<p>Monday 15. We proceeded under a fine breeze from the +south, and clear pleasant weather. At seven miles we +reached the lower point of an island in a bend to the south, +which is two miles in length. Captain Clarke, who went about +nine miles northward from the river reached the high grounds, +which, like those we have seen, are level plains without +timber; here he observed a number of drains, which descending +from the hills pursue a northeast course, and probably +empty into the Mouse river, a branch of the Assiniboin, which +from Indian accounts approaches very near to the Missouri +at this place. Like all the rivulets of this neighbourhood +these drains were so strongly impregnated with mineral salts +that they are not fit to drink. He saw also the remains of +several camps of Assiniboins; the low grounds on both sides +of the river are extensive, rich, and level. In a little pond +on the north, we heard for the first time this season the +croaking of frogs, which exactly resembles that of the small +frogs in the United States: there are also in these plains +great quantities of geese, and many of the grouse, or prairie +hen, as they are called by the N.W. company traders; the +note of the male, as far as words can represent it, is cook, +cook, cook, coo, coo, coo, the first part of which both male +and female use when flying; the male too drums with his +wings when he flies in the same way, though not so loud as the +pheasant; they appear to be mating. Some deer, elk, and goats +were in the low grounds, and buffaloe on the sand beaches, +but they were uncommonly shy; we also saw a black bear, +and two white ones. At fifteen miles we passed on the north +side a small creek twenty yards wide, which we called Goatpen +creek, from a park or enclosure for the purpose of catching +that animal, which those who went up the creek found, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_189" id="Pg_189" title="Pg_189">[189]</a></span>and which we presume to have been left by the Assiniboins. +Its water is impregnated with mineral salts, and the country +through which it flows consists of wide and very fertile +plains, but without any trees. We encamped at the distance +of twenty-three miles, on a sandpoint to the south; we passed +in the evening a rock in the middle of the river, the channel +of which a little above our camp, is confined within eighty +yards.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 16. The morning was clear, the wind light from +the S.E. The country presents the same appearance of low +plains and meadows on the river, bounded a few miles back +by broken hills, which end in high level fertile lands, the +quantity of timber is however increasing. The appearance +of minerals continues as usual, and to-day we found several +stones which seemed to have been wood, first carbonated +and then petrified by the water of the Missouri, which has +the same effect on many vegetable substances. There is indeed +reason to believe that the strata of coal in the hills +cause the fire and appearances which they exhibit of being +burned. Whenever these marks present themselves in the +bluffs on the river, the coal is seldom seen, and when found +in the neighborhood of the strata of burnt earth, the coal +with the sand and sulphurous matter usually accompanying +it, is precisely at the same height and nearly of the same +thickness with those strata. We passed three small creeks +or rather runs, which rise in the hills to the north. Numbers +of geese, and few ducks chiefly of the mallard and +bluewinged teal, many buffaloe, elk and deer were also observed, +and in the timbered low grounds this morning we were +surprised to observe a great quantity of old hornets' nests: +we encamped in a point of woods on the south, having come +eighteen miles, though the circuits which we were obliged +to make around sandbars very much increased the real distance.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, April 17. We set off early, the weather being +fine, and the wind so favourable as to enable us to sail the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_190" id="Pg_190" title="Pg_190">[190]</a></span>greater part of the course. At ten and three quarter miles +we passed a creek ten yards wide on the south; at eighteen +miles a little run on the north, and at night encamped in a +woody point on the south. We had travelled twenty-six +miles through a country similar to that of yesterday, except +that there were greater appearances of burnt hills, furnishing +large quantities of lava and pumicestone, of the last of +which we observe some pieces floating down the river, as we +had previously done, as low as the Little Missouri. In all +the copses of wood are the remains of the Assiniboin encampments; +around us are great quantities of game, such as +herds of buffaloe, elk, antelopes, some deer and wolves, the +tracks of bears, a curlue was also seen, and we obtained +three beaver, the flesh of which is more relished by the men +than any other food which we have. Just before we encamped +we saw some tracks of Indians, who had passed twenty-four +hours before, and left four rafts, and whom we supposed +to be a band of Assiniboins on their return from war against +the Indians on the Rocky mountains.</p> + +<p>Thursday 18. We had again a pleasant day, and proceeded +on with a westerly wind, which however changed +to N.W. and blew so hard that we were obliged to stop at +one o'clock and remain four hours, when it abated and we +then continued our course.</p> + +<p>We encamped about dark on a woody bank having made +thirteen miles. The country presented the usual variety +of highlands interspersed with rich plains. In one of these +we observed a species of pea bearing a yellow flower, which +is now in blossom, the leaf and stalk resembling the common +pea. It seldom rises higher than six inches, and the +root is perennial. On the rose bushes we also saw a quantity +of the hair of the buffaloe, which had become perfectly +white by exposure, and resembled the wool of the sheep, +except that it was much finer and more soft and silky. A +buffaloe which we killed yesterday had shed his long hair, +and that which remained was about two inches long, thick, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_191" id="Pg_191" title="Pg_191">[191]</a></span>fine, and would have furnished five pounds of wool, of which +we have no doubt an excellent cloth may be made. Our +game to-day was a beaver, a deer, an elk, and some geese. +The river has been crooked all day and bearing towards the +south.</p> + +<p>On the hills we observed considerable quantities of dwarf +juniper, which seldom grows higher than three feet. We +killed in the course of the day an elk, three geese and a +beaver. The beaver on this part of the Missouri are in +greater quantities, larger and fatter, and their fur is more +abundant and of a darker colour than any we had hitherto +seen: their favourite food seems to be the bark of the +cottonwood and willow, as we have seen no other species +of tree that has been touched by them, and these they gnaw +to the ground through a diameter of twenty inches.</p> + +<p>The next day, Friday, 19th, the wind was so high from +northwest that we could not proceed, but being less violent +on</p> + +<p>Saturday, 20th, we set off about seven o'clock, and had +nearly lost one of the canoes as we left the shore, by the +falling in of a large part of the bank. The wind too became +again so strong that we could scarcely make one +mile an hour, and the sudden squalls so dangerous to the +small boats, that we stopped for the night among some willows +on the north, not being able to advance more than six +and a half miles. In walking through the neighbouring +plains we found a fine fertile soil covered with cottonwood, +some box, alder, ash, red elm, and an undergrowth of willow, +rosebushes, honeysuckle, red willow, gooseberry, currant, +and serviceberries, and along the foot of the hills +great quantities of hysop. Our hunters procured elk and +deer which are now lean, and six beaver which are fatter +and more palatable. Along the plain there were also some +Indian camps; near one of these was a scaffold about seven +feet high, on which were two sleds with their harness, and +under it the body of a female, carefully wrapped in several +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_192" id="Pg_192" title="Pg_192">[192]</a></span>dressed buffaloe skins; near it lay a bag made of buffaloe +skin, containing a pair of moccasins, some red and blue +paint, beaver's nails, scrapers for dressing hides, some dried +roots, several plaits of sweet grass, and a small quantity of +Mandan tobacco. These things as well as the body itself +had probably fallen down by accident, as the custom is to +place them on the scaffold. At a little distance was the +body of a dog not yet decayed, who had met this reward for +having dragged thus far in the sled the corpse of his mistress, +to whom according to the Indian usage he had been +sacrificed.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 21st. Last night there was a hard white frost, +and this morning the weather cold, but clear and pleasant: +in the course of the day however it became cloudy and the +wind rose. The country is of the same description as within +the few last days. We saw immense quantities of buffaloe, +elk, deer, antelopes, geese, and some swan and ducks, out +of which we procured three deer, four buffaloe calves, +which last are equal in flavour to the most delicious veal; +also two beaver, and an otter. We passed one large and +two small creeks on the south side, and reached at sixteen +miles the mouth of Whiteearth river, coming in from the +north. This river before it reaches the low grounds near +the Missouri, is a fine bold stream sixty yards wide, and is +deep and navigable, but it is so much choked up at the +entrance by the mud of the Missouri, that its mouth is not +more than ten yards wide. Its course, as far as we could +discern from the neighbouring hills, is nearly due north, +passing through a beautiful and fertile valley, though without +a tree or bush of any description. Half a mile beyond +this river we encamped on the same side below a point of +highland, which from its appearance we call Cut bluff.</p> + +<p>Monday, 22d. The day clear and cold: we passed a high +bluff on the north and plains on the south, in which were +large herds of buffaloe, till breakfast, when the wind became +so strong ahead that we proceeded with difficulty even with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_193" id="Pg_193" title="Pg_193">[193]</a></span>the aid of the towline. Some of the party now walked across to +the Whiteearth river, which here at the distance of four +miles from its mouth approaches very near to the Missouri. It +contains more water than is usual in streams of the same +size at this season, with steep banks about ten or twelve +feet high, and the water is much clearer than that of the +Missouri; the salts which have been mentioned as common +on the Missouri, are here so abundant that in many places +the ground appears perfectly white, and from this circumstance +it may have derived its name; it waters an +open country and is navigable almost to its source, which +is not far from the Saskaskawan, and judging from its size +and course, it is probable that it extends as far north as the +fiftieth degree of latitude. After much delay in consequence +of the high wind, we succeeded in making eleven +miles, and encamped in a low ground on the south covered +with cottonwood and rabbitberries. The hills of the Missouri +near this place exhibit large irregular broken masses +of rocks and stones, some of which, although two hundred +feet above the water, seem at some remote period to have +been subject to its influence, being apparently worn smooth +by the agitation of the water. These rocks and stones consist +of white and gray granite, a brittle black rock, flint, +limestone, freestone, some small specimens of an excellent +pebble, and occasionally broken stratas of a black coloured +stone like petrified wood, which make good whetstones. +The usual appearances of coal, or carbonated wood, and +pumicestone still continue, the coal being of a better quality +and when burnt affords a hot and lasting fire, emitting very +little smoke or flame. There are huge herds of deer, elk, +buffaloe, and antelopes in view of us: the buffaloe are not +so shy as the rest, for they suffer us to approach within one +hundred yards before they run, and then stop and resume +their pasture at a very short distance. The wolves to-day +pursued a herd of them, and at length caught a calf that +was unable to keep up with the rest; the mothers on these +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_194" id="Pg_194" title="Pg_194">[194]</a></span>occasions defending their young as long as they can retreat +as fast as the herd, but seldom returning any distance to +seek for them.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 23. A clear and pleasant morning, but at nine +o'clock the wind became so high that the boats were in danger +of upsetting; we therefore were forced to stop at a +place of safety till about five in the afternoon, when the wind +being lower we proceeded and encamped on the north at +the distance of thirteen and a half miles: the party on shore +brought us a buffaloe calf and three blacktailed deer: the +sand on the river has the same appearances as usual, except +that the quantity of wood increases.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 24. The wind blew so high during the whole +day that we were unable to move; such indeed was its violence, +that although we were sheltered by high timber the +waves wet many articles in the boats: the hunters went out +and returned with four deer, two elk, and some young +wolves of the small kind. The party are very much afflicted +with sore eyes, which we presume are occasioned by the +vast quantities of sand which are driven from the sandbars +in such clouds as often to hide from us the view of the opposite +bank. The particles of this sand are so fine and light +that it floats for miles in the air like a column of thick +smoke, and is so penetrating that nothing can be kept free +from it, and we are compelled to eat, drink, and breathe +it very copiously. To the same cause we attribute the disorder +of one of our watches, although her cases are double +and tight; since without any defect in its works, that we can +discover, it will not run for more than a few minutes without +stopping.</p> + +<p>Thursday 25. The wind moderated this morning, but +was still high; we therefore set out early, the weather being +so cold that the water froze on the oars as we rowed, and +about ten o'clock the wind increased so much that we were +obliged to stop. This detention from the wind and the reports +from our hunters of the crookedness of the river, induced +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_195" id="Pg_195" title="Pg_195">[195]</a></span>us to believe that we were at no great distance from +the Yellowstone river. In order therefore to prevent delay +as much as possible, captain Lewis determined to go on by +land in search of that river, and make the necessary observations, +so as to be enabled to proceed on immediately +after the boats should join him; he therefore landed about +eleven o'clock on the south side, accompanied by four men; +the boats were prevented from going until five in the afternoon, +when they went on a few miles further and encamped +for the night at the distance of fourteen and a half miles.</p> + +<p>Friday 26. We continued our voyage in the morning and +by twelve o'clock encamped at eight miles distance, at the +junction of the Missouri and Yellowstone rivers; where we +were soon joined by captain Lewis.</p> + +<p>On leaving us yesterday he pursued his route along the +foot of the hills, which he ascended at the distance of eight +miles; from these the wide plains watered by the Missouri +and the Yellowstone spread themselves before the eye, occasionally +varied with the wood of the banks, enlivened by +the irregular windings of the two rivers, and animated by +vast herds of buffaloe, deer, elk, and antelope. The confluence +of the two rivers was concealed by the wood, but the +Yellowstone itself was only two miles distant to the south. +He therefore descended the hills and encamped on the bank +of the river, having killed as he crossed the plain four buffaloes; +the deer alone are shy and retire to the woods, but +the elk, antelope, and buffaloe suffered him to approach +them without alarm, and often followed him quietly for some +distance. This morning he sent a man up the river to examine +it, while he proceeded down to the junction: the +ground on the lower side of the Yellowstone near its mouth, +is flat, and for about a mile seems to be subject to inundation, +while that at the point or junction, as well as on the +opposite side of the Missouri, is at the usual height of ten +or eighteen feet above the water, and therefore not overflown. +There is more timber in the neighbourhood of this +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_196" id="Pg_196" title="Pg_196">[196]</a></span>place, and on the Missouri, as far below as the Whiteearth +river, than on any other part of the Missouri on this side of +the Chayenne: the timber consists principally of cottonwood, +with some small elm, ash, and box alder. On the sandbars +and along the margin of the river grows the small-leafed +willow; in the low grounds adjoining are scattered rosebushes +three or four feet high, the redberry, serviceberry and +redwood. The higher plains are either immediately on the +river, in which case they are generally timbered, and have +an undergrowth like that of the low grounds, with the addition +of the broad-leafed willow, gooseberry, chokecherry, +purple currant, and honeysuckle; or they are between the +low grounds and the hills, and for the most part without +wood or any thing except large quantities of wild hysop; +this plant rises about two feet high, and like the willow of +the sandbars is a favourite food of the buffaloe, elk, deer, +grouse, porcupine, hare, and rabbit. This river which had +been known to the French as the Roche jaune, or as we have +called it the Yellowstone, rises according to Indian information +in the Rocky mountains; its sources are near those +of the Missouri and the Platte, and it may be navigated in +canoes almost to its head. It runs first through a mountainous +country, but in many parts fertile and well timbered; it +then waters a rich delightful land, broken into vallies and +meadows, and well supplied with wood and water till it reaches +near the Missouri open meadows and low grounds, sufficiently +timbered on its borders. In the upper country its +course is represented as very rapid, but during the two last +and largest portions, its current is much more gentle than +that of the Missouri, which it resembles also in being turbid +though with less sediment. The man who was sent up the +river, reported in the evening that he had gone about eight +miles, that during that distance the river winds on both sides +of a plain four or five miles wide, that the current was gentle +and much obstructed by sandbars, that at five miles he had +met with a large timbered island, three miles beyond which a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_197" id="Pg_197" title="Pg_197">[197]</a></span>creek falls in on the S.E. above a high bluff, in which are +several strata of coal. The country as far as he could discern, +resembled that of the Missouri, and in the plain he met +several of the bighorn animals, but they were too shy to be +obtained. The bed of the Yellowstone, as we observed it +near the mouth, is composed of sand and mud, without a +stone of any kind. Just above the confluence we measured +the two rivers, and found the bed of the Missouri five hundred +and twenty yards wide, the water occupying only +three hundred and thirty, and the channel deep: while +the Yellowstone, including its sandbar, occupied eight hundred +and fifty-eight yards, with two hundred and ninety-seven +yards of water: the deepest part of the channel is +twelve feet, but the river is now falling and seems to be nearly +at its summer height.</p> + +<p>April 27. We left the mouth of the Yellowstone. From +the point of junction a wood occupies the space between the +two rivers, which at the distance of a mile comes within two +hundred and fifty yards of each other. There a beautiful +low plain commences, and widening as the rivers recede, +extends along each of them for several miles, rising about +half a mile from the Missouri into a plain twelve feet higher +than itself. The low plain is a few inches above high water +mark, and where it joins the higher plain there is a channel +of sixty or seventy yards in width, through which a +part of the Missouri when at its greatest height passes into +the Yellowstone. At two and a half miles above the junction +and between the high and low plain is a small lake, two +hundred yards wide, extending for a mile parallel with the +Missouri along the edge of the upper plain. At the lower +extremity of this lake, about four hundred yards from the +Missouri, and twice that distance from the Yellowstone, +is a situation highly eligible for a trading establishment; it +is in the high plain which extends back three miles in width, +and seven or eight miles in length, along the Yellowstone, +where it is bordered by an extensive body of woodland, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_198" id="Pg_198" title="Pg_198">[198]</a></span>along the Missouri with less breadth, till three miles above +it is circumscribed by the hills within a space four yards in +width. A sufficient quantity of limestone for building may +easily be procured near the junction of the rivers; it does +not lie in regular stratas, but is in large irregular masses, +of a light colour and apparently of an excellent quality. +Game too is very abundant, and as yet quite gentle; above +all, its elevation recommends it as preferable to the land at +the confluence of the rivers, which their variable channels +may render very insecure. The N.W. wind rose so high +at eleven o'clock, that we were obliged to stop till about +four in the afternoon, when we proceeded till dusk. On the +south a beautiful plain separates the two rivers, till at about +six miles there is a timbered piece of low ground, and a little +above it bluffs, where the country rises gradually from +the river; the situations on the north more high and open. +We encamped on that side, the wind, the sand which it raised, +and the rapidity of the current having prevented our +advancing more than eight miles; during the latter part of +the day the river becomes wider and crowded with sandbars: +although the game is in such plenty we kill only what is necessary +for our subsistence. For several days past we have +seen great numbers of buffaloe lying dead along the shore, +and some of them partly devoured by the wolves; they have +either sunk through the ice during the winter, or been drowned +in attempting to cross, or else, after crossing to some +high bluff, found themselves too much exhausted either to +ascend or swim back again, and perished for want of food; +in this situation we found several small parties of them. +There are geese too in abundance, and more bald-eagles than +we have hitherto observed; the nests of these last being always +accompanied by those of two or three magpies, who +are their inseparable attendants.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_199" id="Pg_199" title="Pg_199">[199]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Unusual appearance of salt—The formidable character of the white bear—Porcupine +river described—Beautiful appearance of the surrounding country—Immense +quantities of game—Milk river described—Extraordinary character +of Bigdry river—An instance of uncommon tenacity of life in a white +bear—Narrow escape of one of the party from that animal—A still more remarkable +instance—Muscleshell river described.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>Sunday 28. The day was clear and pleasant, and the +wind having shifted to southeast, we could employ our sails, +and went twenty-four miles to a low ground on the north opposite +to steep bluffs: the country on both sides is much broken, +the hills approaching nearer to the river, and forming +bluffs, some of a white and others of a red colour, and +exhibiting the usual appearances of minerals, and some +burnt hills though without any pumicestone; the salts are +in greater quantities than usual, and the banks and sandbars +are covered with a white incrustation like frost. +The low grounds are level, fertile and partially timbered, +but are not so wide as for a few days past. The woods +are now green, but the plains and meadows seem to have +less verdure than those below: the only streams which +we met to-day are two small runs on the north and one on +the south, which rise in the neighbouring hills, and have +very little water. At the distance of eighteen miles the +Missouri makes a considerable bend to the southeast: the +game is very abundant, the common, and mule or blacktailed +deer, elk, buffaloe, antelope, brown bear, beaver, and +geese. The beaver have committed great devastation +among the trees, one of which, nearly three feet in diameter, +has been gnawed through by them.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_200" id="Pg_200" title="Pg_200">[200]</a></span>Monday 29. We proceeded early with a moderate wind: +captain Lewis who was on shore with one hunter met about +eight o'clock two white bears: of the strength and ferocity +of this animal, the Indians had given us dreadful accounts: +they never attack him but in parties of six or eight persons, +and even then are often defeated with the loss of one or +more of the party. Having no weapons but bows and arrows, +and the bad guns with which the traders supply them, they +are obliged to approach very near to the bear; and as no +wound except through the head or heart is mortal, they +frequently fall a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He rather +attacks than avoids a man, and such is the terror which he +has inspired, that the Indians who go in quest of him paint +themselves and perform all the superstitious rites customary +when they make war on a neighbouring nation. Hitherto +those we had seen did not appear desirous of encountering +us, but although to a skilful rifleman the danger is very +much diminished, yet the white bear is still a terrible animal: +on approaching these two, both captain Lewis and the +hunter fired and each wounded a bear: one of them made his +escape; the other turned upon captain Lewis and pursued +him seventy or eighty yards, but being badly wounded he +could not run so fast as to prevent him from reloading his +piece, which he again aimed at him, and a third shot from +the hunter brought him to the ground: he was a male not +quite full grown, and weighed about three hundred pounds: +the legs are somewhat longer than those of the black bear, +and the talons and tusks much larger and longer. The testicles +are also placed much farther forward and suspended +in separate pouches from two to four inches asunder, while +those of the black bear are situated back between the thighs +and in a single pouch like those of the dog: its colour is a yellowish +brown, the eyes small, black, and piercing, the front +of the fore legs near the feet is usually black, and the fur +is finer, thicker, and deeper than that of the black bear: +add to which, it is a more furious animal, and very remarkable +for the wounds which it will bear without dying.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_201" id="Pg_201" title="Pg_201">[201]</a></span>We are surrounded with deer, elk, buffaloe, antelopes, +and their companions the wolves, who have become more +numerous and make great ravages among them: the hills +are here much more rough and high, and almost overhang +the banks of the river. There are greater appearances of +coal than we have hitherto seen, the stratas of it being in +some places six feet thick, and there are stratas of burnt +earth, which are always on the same level with those of coal. +In the evening after coming twenty-five miles we encamped +at the entrance of a river which empties itself into a bend +on the north side of the Missouri: this stream which we +called Martha's river, is about fifty yards wide, with water +for fifteen yards, the banks are of earth, and steep, though +not high, and the bed principally of mud. Captain Clarke, +who ascended it for three miles, found that it continued of +the same width with a gentle current, and pursuing its +course about north 30° west, through an extensive, fertile, +and beautiful valley, but without a single tree. The water +is clear, and has a brownish yellow tint; at this place the +highlands which yesterday and to-day had approached so +near the river became lower, and receding from the water +left a valley seven or eight miles wide.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 30. The wind was high from the north during +last evening and continued so this morning: we however +continued, and found the river more winding than usual +and with a number of sand islands and bars, on one of which +last we encamped at the distance of twenty-four miles. +The low grounds are fertile and extensive but with very +little timber, and that cottonwood, very bad of its kind, +being too small for planks, and broken and dead at the top +and unsound in the centre of the trunk. We passed some +ancient lodges of driftwood which do not appear to have +been lately inhabited. The game continues abundant: we +killed the largest male elk we have yet seen; on placing +it in its natural erect position, we found that it measured +five feet three inches from the point of the hoof to the top +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_202" id="Pg_202" title="Pg_202">[202]</a></span>of the shoulder. The antelopes are yet lean and the females +are with young: this fleet and quick-sighted animal is +generally the victim of its curiosity: when they first see the +hunters they run with great velocity; if he lies down on the +ground and lifts up his arm, his hat, or his foot, the antelope +returns on a light trot to look at the object, and sometimes +goes and returns two or three times till they approach +within reach of the rifle; so too they sometimes leave their +flock to go and look at the wolves who crouch down, and if +the antelope be frightened at first repeat the same manoeuvre, +and sometimes relieve each other till they decoy it +from the party when they seize it. But generally the wolves +take them as they are crossing the rivers, for although +swift of foot they are not good swimmers.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, May 1. The wind was in our favour and we +were enabled to use the sails till twelve o'clock, when the +wind became so high and squally that we were forced to +come to at the distance of ten miles on the south, in a low +ground stocked with cottonwood, and remain there during +the day; one of the canoes being separated from us, and not +able to cross over in consequence of the high waves. The +country around is more pleasant than that through which +we had passed for several days, the hills being lower, the +low grounds wider and better supplied with timber, which +consists principally of cottonwood: the undergrowth willow +on the banks and sandbars, rosebushes, redwillow, and the +broad-leafed willow in the low plains, while the high country +on both sides is one extensive plain without wood, though +the soil is a dark, rich, mellow loam. Our hunters killed a +buffaloe, an elk, a goat, and two beaver, and also a bird of +the plover kind.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 2d. The wind continued high during the +night, and at daylight it began to snow and did not stop till +ten o'clock, when the ground was covered an inch deep, +forming a striking contrast with the vegetation which is +now considerably advanced; some flowers having put forth, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_203" id="Pg_203" title="Pg_203">[203]</a></span>and the cottonwood leaves as large as a dollar. The wind +lulled about five o'clock in the afternoon, and we then proceeded +along wide fertile low grounds and high level plains, +and encamped at the distance of four miles. Our game to-day +was deer, elk, and buffaloe: we also procured three +beaver who are quite gentle, as they have not been hunted, +but when the hunters are in pursuit they never leave their +huts during the day: this animal we esteem a great delicacy, +particularly the tail, which when boiled resembles in flavor +the flesh tongues and sounds of the codfish, and is generally +so large as to afford a plentiful meal for two men. One of +the hunters in passing near an old Indian camp found several +yards of scarlet cloth, suspended on the bough of a tree +as a sacrifice to the deity by the Assiniboins: the custom of +making these offerings being common among that people +as indeed among all the Indians on the Missouri. The air +was sharp this evening; the water froze on the oars as we +rowed, and in the morning.</p> + +<p>Friday, 3d, the weather became quite cold, the ice was +a quarter of an inch thick in the kettle, and the snow still +continued on the hills though it has melted from the plains. +The wind too continued high from the west, but not so +violently as to prevent our going on. At two miles from +our encampment we passed a curious collection of bushes +about thirty feet high and ten or twelve in diameter, tied in +the form of a fascine and standing on end in the middle of +the low ground: this too we supposed to have been left by +the Indians as a religious sacrifice: at twelve o'clock the usual +hour we halted for dinner. The low grounds on the river +are much wider than common, sometimes extending from +five to nine miles to the highlands, which are much lower +than heretofore, not being more than fifty or sixty feet +above the lower plain: through all this valley traces of the +ancient bed of the river are every where visible, and since +the hills have become lower, the stratas of coal, burnt +earth, and pumicestone have in a great measure ceased, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_204" id="Pg_204" title="Pg_204">[204]</a></span>there being in fact none to-day. At the distance of fourteen +miles we reached the mouth of a river on the north, which +from the unusual number of porcupines near it, we called +Porcupine river. This is a bold and beautiful stream one +hundred and twelve yards wide, though the water is only +forty yards at its entrance: captain Clarke who ascended it +several miles and passed it above where it enters the highlands, +found it continued nearly of the same width and about +knee deep, and as far as he could distinguish for twenty +miles from the hills, its course was from a little to the +east of north. There was much timber on the low grounds: +he found some limestone also on the surface of the earth in +the course of his walk, and saw a range of low mountains +at a distance to the west of north, whose direction was +northwest; the adjoining country being every where level, +fertile, open, and exceedingly beautiful. The water of this +river is transparent, and is the only one that is so of all those +that fall into the Missouri: before entering a large sandbar +through which it discharges itself, its low grounds are +formed of a stiff blue and black clay, and its banks which +are from eight to ten feet high and seldom if ever overflow +are composed of the same materials. From the quantity of +water which this river contains, its direction, and the nature +of the country through which it passes, it is not improbable +that its sources may be near the main body of the +Saskaskawan, and as in high water it can be no doubt navigated +to a considerable distance, it may be rendered the +means of intercourse with the Athabasky country, from +which the northwest company derive so many of their valuable +furs.</p> + +<p>A quarter of a mile beyond this river a creek falls in on +the south, to which on account of its distance from the mouth +of the Missouri, we gave it the name of Two-thousand mile +creek: it is a bold stream with a bed thirty yards wide. +Three miles and a half above Porcupine river, we reached +some high timber on the north, and encamped just above an +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_205" id="Pg_205" title="Pg_205">[205]</a></span>old channel of the river, which is now dry. We saw vast +quantities of buffaloe, elk, deer, principally of the long tailed +kind, antelopes, beaver, geese, ducks, brant, and some +swan. The porcupines too are numerous, and so careless and +clumsy that we can approach very near without disturbing +them as they are feeding on the young willows; towards +evening we also found for the first time, the nest of a goose +among some driftwood, all that we have hitherto seen being +on the top of a broken tree on the forks, and invariably +from fifteen to twenty feet or more in height.</p> + +<p>Saturday 4. We were detained till nine in order to repair +the rudder of one of the boats, and when we set out the wind +was ahead; at six and a half miles we passed a small creek +in a deep bend on the south with a sand island opposite to it, +and then passing along an extensive plain which gradually +rises from the north side of the river, encamped at the distance +of eighteen miles in a point of woodland on the north: +the river is this day wider than usual, and crowded with +sandbars on all sides: the country is level, fertile, and beautiful, +the low grounds extensive and contain a much greater +portion of timber than is common: indeed all the forepart +of the day the river was bordered with timber on both sides, +a circumstance very rare on the Missouri, and the first that +has occurred since we left the Mandans. There are as +usual vast quantities of game, and extremely gentle; the +male buffaloe particularly will scarcely give way to us, and +as we approach will merely look at us for a moment, as +something new, and then quietly resume their feeding. In +the course of the day we passed some old Indian hunting +camps, one of which consisted of two large lodges fortified +with a circular fence, twenty or thirty feet in diameter, and +made of timber laid horizontally, the beams overlaying each +other to the height of five feet, and covered with the trunks +and limbs of trees that have drifted down the river: the +lodges themselves are formed by three or more strong sticks +about the size of a man's leg or arm, and twelve feet long, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_206" id="Pg_206" title="Pg_206">[206]</a></span>which are attached at the top by a whith of small willows, +and spreading out so as to form at the base a circle of ten +or fourteen feet in diameter: against these are placed pieces +of driftwood and fallen timber, usually in three ranges one +on the other, and the interstices are covered with leaves, +bark, and straw, so as to form a conical figure about ten +feet high, with a small aperture in one side for the door. +It is, however, at best a very imperfect shelter against the +inclemencies of the seasons.</p> + +<p>Sunday 5. We had a fine morning, and the wind being +from the east we used our sails. At the distance of five miles +we came to a small island, and twelve miles farther encamped +on the north, at the distance of seventeen miles. The +country like that of yesterday is beautiful in the extreme. +Among the vast quantities of game around us, we distinguish +a small species of goose differing considerably from +the common Canadian goose; its neck, head, and beak, being +much thicker, larger, and shorter in proportion to its +size, which is nearly a third smaller; the noise too resembling +more that of the brant or of a young goose that has +not yet fully acquired its note; in other respects its colour, +habits, and the number of feathers in the tail, the two species +correspond; this species also associates in flocks with +the large geese, but we have not seen it pair off with them. +The white brant is about the size of the common brown +brant, or two thirds of the common goose, than which it is +also six inches shorter from the extremity of the wings, +though the beak, head, and neck are larger and stronger: +the body and wings are of a beautiful pure white, except +the black feathers of the first and second joints of the wings; +the beak and legs are of a reddish or flesh-coloured white, +the eye of a moderate size, the pupil of a deep sea-green incircled +with a ring of yellowish brown, the tail consists of +sixteen feathers equally long, the flesh is dark and as well +as its note differs but little from those of the common brant, +whom in form and habits it resembles, and with whom it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_207" id="Pg_207" title="Pg_207">[207]</a></span>sometimes unites in a common flock; the white brant also +associate by themselves in large flocks, but as they do not +seem to be mated or paired off, it is doubtful whether they +reside here during the summer for the purpose of rearing +their young.</p> + +<p>The wolves are also very abundant, and are of two species. +First, the small wolf or burrowing dog of the prairies, +which are found in almost all the open plains. It is of +an intermediate size between the fox and dog, very delicately +formed, fleet and active. The ears are large, erect, +and pointed, the head long and pointed, like that of the fox; +the tail long and bushy; the hair and fur of a pale reddish +brown colour, though much coarser than that of the fox; +the eye of a deep sea-green colour, small and piercing; the +talons rather longer than those of the wolf of the Atlantic +states, which animal as far as we can perceive is not to be +found on this side of the river Platte. These wolves usually +associate in bands of ten or twelve, and are rarely if +ever seen alone, not being able singly to attack a deer or +antelope. They live and rear their young in burrows, +which they fix near some pass or spot much frequented by +game, and sally out in a body against any animal which +they think they can overpower, but on the slightest alarm +retreat to their burrows making a noise exactly like that +of a small dog.</p> + +<p>The second species is lower, shorter in the legs and +thicker than the Atlantic wolf; their colour, which is not +affected by the seasons, is of every variety of shade, from a +gray or blackish brown to a cream coloured white. They +do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl, and they frequent +the woods and plains, and skulk along the skirts +of the buffaloe herds, in order to attack the weary or +wounded.</p> + +<p>Captain Clarke and one of the hunters met this evening +the largest brown bear we have seen. As they fired he +did not attempt to attack, but fled with a most tremendous +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_208" id="Pg_208" title="Pg_208">[208]</a></span>roar, and such was its extraordinary tenacity of life, +that although he had five balls passed through his lungs +and five other wounds, he swam more than half across the +river to a sandbar, and survived twenty minutes. He +weighed between five and six hundred pounds at least, and +measured eight feet seven inches and a half from the nose +to the extremity of the hind feet, five feet ten inches and +half round the breast, three feet eleven inches round the +neck, one foot eleven inches round the middle of the foreleg, +and his talons, five on each foot, were four inches and +three eighths in length. It differs from the common black +bear in having its talons much longer and more blunt; its +tail shorter; its hair of a reddish or bay brown, longer, +finer, and more abundant; his liver, lungs, and heart, much +larger even in proportion to his size, the heart particularly +being equal to that of a large ox; his maw ten times larger; +his testicles pendant from the belly and in separate pouches +four inches apart: besides fish and flesh he feeds on roots, +and every kind of wild fruit.</p> + +<p>The antelope are now lean and with young, so that they +may readily be caught at this season, as they cross the river +from S.W. to N.E.</p> + +<p>Monday 6. The morning being fair and the wind favourable, +we set sail, and proceeded on very well the greater +part of the day. The country continues level, rich, and beautiful; +the low grounds wide and comparatively with the other +parts of the Missouri, well supplied with wood. The appearances +of coal, pumicestone, and burnt earth have ceased, +though the salts of tartar or vegetable salts continue on the +banks and sandbars, and sometimes in the little ravines at the +base of the low hills. We passed three streams on the south; +the first at the distance of one mile and a half from our +camp was about twenty-five yards wide, but although it contained +some water in standing pools it discharges none; this +we called Littledry creek, about eight miles beyond which +is Bigdry creek; fifty yards wide, without any water; the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_209" id="Pg_209" title="Pg_209">[209]</a></span>third is six miles further, and has the bed of a large river +two hundred yards wide, yet without a drop of water: like +the other two this stream, which we called Bigdry river, +continues its width undiminished as far as we can discern. +The banks are low, this channel formed of a fine +brown sand, intermixed with a small proportion of little +pebbles of various colours, and the country around flat and +without trees. They had recently discharged their waters, +and from their appearance and the nature of the country +through which they pass, we concluded that they rose in the +Black mountains, or in the level low plains which are +probably between this place and the mountains; that the +country being nearly of the same kind and of the same latitude, +the rains of spring melting the snows about the same +time, conspire with them to throw at once vast quantities of +water down these channels, which are then left dry during +the summer, autumn, and winter, when there is very little +rain. We had to-day a slight sprinkling. But it lasted a very +short time. The game is in such plenty that it has become +a mere amusement to supply the party with provisions. We +made twenty-five miles to a clump of trees on the north where +we passed the night.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 7. The morning was pleasant and we proceeded +at an early hour. There is much driftwood floating, and +what is contrary to our expectation, although the river is +rising, the water is somewhat clearer than usual. At eleven +o'clock the wind became so high that one of the boats was +nearly sunk, and we were obliged to stop till one, when we +proceeded on, and encamped on the south, above a large sandbar +projecting from the north, having made fifteen miles. +On the north side of the river are the most beautiful plains +we have yet seen: they rise gradually from the low grounds +on the water to the height of fifty or sixty feet, and then extend +in an unbroken level as far as the eye can reach: the +hills on the south are more broken and higher, though at +some distance back the country becomes level and fertile. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_210" id="Pg_210" title="Pg_210">[210]</a></span>There are no more appearances of burnt earth, coal, +or pumicestone, though that of salt still continues, and +the vegetation seems to have advanced but little since +the twenty-eighth of last month: the game is as abundant +as usual. The bald-eagles, of whom we see great numbers, +probably feed on the carcases of dead animals, +for on the whole Missouri we have seen neither the blue-crested +fisher, nor the fishing-hawks, to supply them with +their favourite food, and the water of the river is so turbid +that no bird which feeds exclusively on fish can procure a +subsistence.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 8. A light breeze from the east carried us sixteen +miles, till we halted for dinner at the entrance of a river +on the north. Captain Clarke who had walked on the south, +on ascending a high point opposite to its entrance discovered a +level and beautiful country which it watered; that its course +for twelve or fifteen miles was N.W. when it divided into +two nearly equal branches, one pursuing a direction nearly +north, the other to the W. of N.W: its width at the entrance +is one hundred and fifty yards, and on going three miles up, +captain Lewis found it to be of the same breadth, and sometimes +more; it is deep, gentle, and has a large quantity of +water; its bed is principally of mud, the banks abrupt, about +twelve feet in height, and formed of a dark, rich loam and +blue clay; the low grounds near it are wide and fertile, and +possess a considerable proportion of cottonwood and willow. +It seems to be navigable for boats and canoes, and this circumstance +joined to its course and the quantity of water, which +indicates that it passes through a large extent of country, we +are led to presume that it may approach the Saskashawan +and afford a communication with that river. The water +has a peculiar whiteness, such as might be produced by a +tablespoon full of milk in a dish of tea, and this circumstance +induced us to call it Milk river. In the evening we +had made twenty-seven miles, and encamped on the south. +The country on that side consists in general of high broken +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_211" id="Pg_211" title="Pg_211">[211]</a></span>hills, with much gray, black and brown granite scattered +over the surface of the ground. At a little distance +from the river there is no timber on either side, the wood +being confined as below to the margin of the river; so that +unless the contrary is particularly mentioned, it is always +understood that the upland is perfectly naked, and that +we consider the low grounds well timbered if even a fifth +be covered with wood. The wild liquorice is found in +great abundance on these hills, as is also the white apple. +As usual we are surrounded by buffaloe, elk, common and +blacktailed deer, beaver, antelopes and wolves. We observed +a place where an Indian had recently taken the +hair off an antelope's skin, and some of the party thought +they distinguished imperfectly some smoke and Indian +lodges up Milk river, marks which we are by no means desirous +of realizing, as the Indians are probably Assiniboins, +and might be very troublesome.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 9th. We again had a favourable wind and +sailed along very well. Between four and five miles we +passed a large island in a deep bend to the north, and a +large sandbar at the upper point. At fifteen and a quarter +miles we reached the bed of a most extraordinary +river which presents itself on the south: though as wide as +the Missouri itself, that is about half a mile, it does not +discharge a drop of water and contains nothing but a few +standing pools. On ascending it three miles we found an +eminence from which we saw the direction of the channel, +first south for ten or twelve miles, then turning to the east +of southeast as far as we could see; it passes through a wide +valley without timber, and the surrounding country consists +of waving low hills interspersed with some handsome level +plains; the banks are abrupt and consist of a black or yellow +clay; or of a rich sandy loam, but though they do not +rise more than six or eight feet above the bed, they exhibit +no appearance of being overflowed: the bed is entirely +composed of a light brown sand, the particles of which like +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_212" id="Pg_212" title="Pg_212">[212]</a></span>those of the Missouri are extremely fine. Like the dry +rivers we passed before, this seemed to have discharged its +waters recently, but the watermark indicated that its greatest +depth had not been more than two feet: this stream, if it +deserve the name, we called Bigdry river. About a mile +below is a large creek on the same side, which is also perfectly +dry: the mineral salts and quartz are in large quantities +near this neighbourhood. The sand of the Missouri +from its mouth to this place has been mixed with a substance +which we had presumed to be a granulated chalk, but which +is most probably this quartz. The game is now in great +quantities, particularly the elk and buffaloe, which last is +so gentle that the men are obliged to drive them out of the +way with sticks and stones. The ravages of the beaver are +very apparent: in one place the timber was entirely prostrated +for a space of three acres in front on the river +and one in depth, and great part of it removed, although the +trees were in large quantities, and some of them as thick as +the body of a man. At the distance of twenty-four miles +we encamped, after making twenty-five and a half miles, at +the entrance of a small creek in a bend on the north; to +which we gave the name of Werner's creek after one of +our men.</p> + +<p>For several days past the river has been as wide as it +generally is near its mouth, but as it is much shallower, +crowded with sandbars, and the colour of the water has become +much clearer, we do not yet despair of reaching the +Rock mountains, for which we are very anxious.</p> + +<p>Friday, 10th. We had not proceeded more than four +and a quarter miles when the violence of the wind forced +us to halt for the day under some timber in a bend on the +south side. The wind continued high, the clouds thick and +black, and we had a slight sprinkling of rain several times +in the course of the day. Shortly after our landing a dog +came to us, and as this induced us to believe that we are near +the hunting grounds of the Assiniboins, who are a vicious +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_213" id="Pg_213" title="Pg_213">[213]</a></span>ill-disposed people, it was necessary to be on our guard: +we therefore inspected our arms which we found in good +order, and sent several hunters to scour the country, but +they returned in the evening having seen no tents, nor any +recent tracks of Indians. Biles and imposthumes are very +common among the party, and sore eyes continue in a +greater or less degree with all of us; for the imposthumes +we use emollient poultices, and apply to the eyes a solution +of two grains of white vitriol and one of sugar of lead with +one ounce of water.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 11th. The wind blew very hard in the night, +but having abated this morning we went on very well, till in +the afternoon the wind arose and retarded our progress; +the current too was strong, the river very crooked, and +the banks as usual constantly precipitating themselves in +large masses into the water. The highlands are broken +and approach nearer the river than they do below. The +soil however of both hills and low grounds appear as fertile +as that further down the river: it consists of a black looking +loam with a small portion of sand, which cover the hills +and bluffs to the depth of twenty or thirty feet, and when +thrown in the water dissolves as readily as loaf-sugar, and +effervesces like marle; there are also great appearances of +quartz and mineral salts: the first is most commonly seen +in the faces of the bluffs, the second is found on the hills as +well as the low grounds, and in the gullies which come +down from the hills; it lies in a crust of two or three inches in +depth, and may be swept up with a feather in large quantities. +There is no longer any appearance of coal burnt earth +or pumicestone. We saw and visited some high hills on the +north side about three miles from the river, whose tops were +covered with the pitch-pine: this in the first pine we have +seen on the Missouri, and it is like that of Virginia, except +that the leaves are somewhat longer; among this pine is also +a dwarf cedar, sometimes between three or four feet high, +but generally spreading itself like a vine along the surface +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_214" id="Pg_214" title="Pg_214">[214]</a></span>of the earth, which it covers very closely, putting out roots +from the under side. The fruit and smell resemble those +of the common red cedar, but the leaf is finer and more +delicate. The tops of the hills where these plants grow +have a soil quite different from that just described, the +basis of it is usually yellow or white clay, and the general +appearance light coloured, sandy, and barren, some +scattering tufts of sedge being almost its only herbage. +About five in the afternoon one of our men who had been +afflicted with biles, and suffered to walk on shore, came +running to the boats with loud cries and every symptom of +terror and distress: for some time after we had taken him +on board he was so much out of breath as to be unable to +describe the cause of his anxiety, but he at length told us +that about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear +which immediately turned and was in close pursuit of him; +but the bear being badly wounded could not overtake him. +Captain Lewis with seven men immediately went in search of +him, and having found his track followed him by the blood +for a mile, and found him concealed in some thick brushwood, +and shot him with two balls through the skull. +Though somewhat smaller than that killed a few days ago, +he was a monstrous animal and a most terrible enemy: our +man had shot him through the centre of the lungs, yet he +had pursued him furiously for half a mile, then returned +more than twice that distance, and with his talons had prepared +himself a bed in the earth two feet deep and five feet +long, and was perfectly alive when they found him, which was +at least two hours after he received the wound. The wonderful +power of life which these animals possess render them +dreadful: their very track in the mud or sand, which we have +sometimes found eleven inches long and seven and a quarter +wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we had rather +encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear. +There is no chance of killing them by a single shot unless +the ball goes through the brains, and this is very difficult +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_215" id="Pg_215" title="Pg_215">[215]</a></span>on account of two large muscles which cover the side of the +forehead, and the sharp projection of the centre of the +frontal bone, which is also thick. Our encampment was +on the south at the distance of sixteen miles from that of +last night; the fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy +burden for two men, and the oil amounted to eight gallons.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 12th. The weather being clear and calm, we +set out early. Within a mile we came to a small creek, +about twenty yards wide, emptying itself on the south. At +eleven and three quarter miles we reached a point of woodland +on the south, opposite to which is a creek of the same +width as the last, but with little water, which we called +Pine creek. At eighteen and three quarter miles we came +to on the south opposite to the lower point of a willow island, +situated in a deep bend of the river to the southeast: here +we remained during the day, the wind having risen at twelve +so high that we could not proceed: it continued to blow +violently all night, with occasional sprinklings of rain from +sunset till midnight. On both sides of the river the country +is rough and broken, the low grounds becoming narrower; +the tops of the hills on the north exhibits some scattered +pine and cedar, on the south the pine has not yet commenced, +though there is some cedar on the sides of the hills +and in the little ravines. The chokecherry, the wild hysop, +sage, fleshy-leafed thorn, and particularly the aromatic +herb on which the antelope and hare feed, are to be found +on the plains and hills. The soil of the hills has now altered +its texture considerably: their bases, like that of the river +plains, is as usual a rich, black loam, while from the middle +to the summits they are composed of a light brown-coloured +earth, poor and sterile, and intermixed with a coarse +white sand.</p> + +<p>Monday, 13th. The wind was so strong that we could +not proceed till about one o'clock, when we had to encounter +a current rather stronger than usual. In the course of a +mile and a half we passed two small creeks on the south, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_216" id="Pg_216" title="Pg_216">[216]</a></span>one of eighteen the other of thirty yards width, but neither +of them containing any water, and encamped on the south +at a point of woodland, having made only seven miles. +The country is much the same as yesterday, with little +timber in the low grounds, and a small quantity of pine and +cedar on the northern hills. The river however continues +to grow clearer, and this as well as the increased rapidity +induces us to hope for some change of country. The game +is as usual so abundant that we can get without difficulty +all that is necessary.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 14th. There was some fog on the river this +morning, which is a very rare occurrence. At the distance +of a mile and a half we reached an island in a bend on the +north, which continued for about half a mile, when at the +head of it a large creek comes in on the north, to which we +gave the name of Gibson's creek. At seven and a half miles +is a point of rocks on the south, above a creek on the same +side, which we called Sticklodge creek: five miles further +is a large creek on the south, which like the two others has +no running water; and at sixteen and a half miles a timbered +point on the north, where we encamped for the night. The +country is like that of yesterday, except that the low grounds +are wider; there are also many high black bluffs along the +banks: the game too is in great abundance. Towards evening +the men in the hindmost canoes discovered a large +brown bear lying in the open grounds, about three hundred +paces from the river: six of them, all good hunters, immediately +went to attack him, and concealing themselves by a +small eminence came unperceived within forty paces of him: +four of the hunters now fired, and each lodged a ball in his +body, two of them directly through the lungs: the furious +animal sprung up and ran openmouthed upon them; as he +came near, the two hunters who had reserved their fire +gave him two wounds, one of which breaking his shoulder +retarded his motion for a moment; but before they could +reload he was so near that they were obliged to run to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_217" id="Pg_217" title="Pg_217">[217]</a></span>river, and before they reached it he had almost overtaken +them: two jumped into the canoe; the other four separated, +and concealing themselves in the willows fired as fast as +each could reload: they struck him several times, but instead +of weakening the monster each shot seemed only to +direct him towards the hunter, till at last he pursued two +of them so closely, that they threw aside their guns and +pouches, and jumped down a perpendicular bank of twenty +feet into the river; the bear sprang after them, and was +within a few feet of the hindmost, when one of the hunters +on shore shot him in the head and finally killed him: they +dragged him to the shore, and found that eight balls had +passed through him in different directions; the bear was old +and the meat tough, so that they took the skin only, and +rejoined us at camp, where we had been as much terrified +by an accident of a different kind. This was the narrow +escape of one of our canoes containing all our papers, +instruments, medicine, and almost every article indispensible +for the success of our enterprise. The canoe being under sail, +a sudden squall of wind struck her obliquely, and turned +her considerably. The man at the helm, who was unluckily +the worst steersman of the party, became alarmed, and instead +of putting her before the wind luffed her up into it. +The wind was so high that it forced the brace of the squaresail +out of the hand of the man who was attending it, and +instantly upset the canoe, which would have turned +bottom upwards but for the resistance made by the awning. +Such was the confusion on board, and the waves ran so high, +that it was half a minute before she righted, and then nearly +full of water, but by baling out she was kept from sinking +until they rowed ashore; besides the loss of the lives of +three men who not being able to swim would probably have +perished, we should have been deprived of nearly every +thing necessary for our purpose, at a distance of between +two and three thousand miles from any place where we could +supply the deficiency.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_218" id="Pg_218" title="Pg_218">[218]</a></span>Wednesday 15. As soon as a slight shower of rain had +passed, we spread out the articles to dry; but the weather +was so damp and cloudy that they derived little benefit +from exposure. Our hunters procured us deer, buffaloe, +and beaver.</p> + +<p>Thursday 16. The morning was fair and we were enabled +to dry and repack our stores: the loss we sustained is +chiefly in the medicines, many articles of which are completely +spoiled, and others considerably injured. At four +o'clock we embarked, and after making seven miles encamped +on the north near some wood: the country on both sides +is broken, the low grounds narrower and with less timber, +though there are some scattered pine and cedar on the steep +declivities of the hills, which are now higher than usual. +A white bear tore the coat of one of the men which he had +left on shore; and two of the party wounded a large panther +who was feasting on a deer. We caught some lean antelopes +as they were swimming the river, and killed two +buffaloe.</p> + +<p>Friday 17. We set out early and proceeded on very well; +the banks being firm and the shore bold we were enabled to +use the towline, which, whenever the banks will permit it, +is the safest and most expeditious mode of ascending the +river, except under a sail with a steady breeze. At the distance +of ten and a half miles we came to the mouth of a +small creek on the south, below which the hills approach +the river, and continue near it during the day: three miles +further is a large creek on the north, and again six and +three quarter miles beyond it, another large creek to the +south, which contain a small quantity of running water of a +brackish taste. The last we called Rattlesnake creek from +our seeing that animal near it. Although no timber can be +observed on it from the Missouri, it throws out large quantities +of driftwood, among which were some pieces of coal +brought down by the stream. We continued on one mile +and a quarter, and encamped on the south, after making +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_219" id="Pg_219" title="Pg_219">[219]</a></span>twenty and a half miles. The country in general is rugged, +the hills high, with their summits and sides partially covered +with pine and cedar, and their bases on both sides washed +by the river: like those already mentioned the lower part +of these hills is a dark rich loam, while the upper region for +one hundred and fifty feet consists of a whitish brown sand, +so hard as in many places to resemble stone, though in fact +very little stone or rock of any kind is to be seen on the +hills. The bed of the Missouri is much narrower than usual, +being not more than between two and three hundred yards +in width, with an uncommonly large proportion of gravel; +but the sandbars, and low points covered with willows have +almost entirely disappeared: the timber on the river consists +of scarcely any thing more than a few scattered cottonwood +trees. The saline incrustations along the banks and +the foot of the hills are more abundant than usual. The +game is in great quantities, but the buffaloe are not so +numerous as they were some days ago: two rattlesnakes were +seen to-day, and one of them killed: it resembles those of +the middle Atlantic states, being about two feet six inches +long, of a yellowish brown on the back and sides, variegated +with a row of oval dark brown spots lying transversely on +the back from the neck to the tail, and two other rows of +circular spots of the same colour on the sides along the edge +of the scuta: there are one hundred and seventy-six scuta +on the belly, and seventeen on the tail. Captain Clarke saw +in his excursions a fortified Indian camp which appeared to +have been recently occupied, and was, we presumed, made +by a party of Minnetarees who went to war last March.</p> + +<p>Late at night we were roused by the sergeant of the guard +in consequence of a fire which had communicated to a tree +overhanging our camp. The wind was so high, that we had +not removed the camp more than a few minutes when a large +part of the tree fell precisely on the spot it had occupied, and +would have crushed us if we had not been alarmed in time.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_220" id="Pg_220" title="Pg_220">[220]</a></span>Saturday 18. The wind continued high from the west, +but by means of the towline we were able to make nineteen +miles, the sandbars being now few in number, the river narrow +and the current gentle; the willow has in a great measure +disappeared, and even the cottonwood, almost the only +timber remaining, is growing scarce. At twelve and three +quarter miles we came to a creek on the north, which was +perfectly dry. We encamped on the south opposite the +lower point of an island.</p> + +<p>Sunday 19. The last night was disagreeably cold; and +in the morning there was a very heavy fog which obscured +the river so much as to prevent our seeing the way. This +is the first fog of any degree of thickness which we have +experienced: there was also last evening a fall of dew, the +second which we have seen since entering this extensive +open country. About eight o'clock the fog dispersed, and +we proceeded with the aid of the towline: the island near +which we were encamped, was three quarters of a mile in +length. The country resembles that of yesterday, high hills +closely bordering the river. In the afternoon the river became +crooked, and contained more sawyers or floating timber +than we have seen in the same space since leaving the +Platte. Our game consisted of deer, beaver, and elk: we +also killed a brown bear, who, although shot through the +heart, ran at his usual pace nearly a quarter of a mile before +he fell. At twenty-one miles is a willow island half a +mile in length, on the north side, a quarter of a mile beyond +which is a shoal of rapid water under a bluff: the water +continued very strong for some distance beyond it: at half +a mile we came to a sandbar on the north, from which to +our place of encampment was another half mile, making in +all twenty-two and a quarter miles. The saline substances +which we have mentioned continue to appear; and the men +are much afflicted with sore eyes and imposthumes.</p> + +<p>Monday 20. As usual we set out early, and the banks +being convenient for that purpose, we used the towline: +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_221" id="Pg_221" title="Pg_221">[221]</a></span>the river is narrow and crooked, the water rapid, and the +country much like that of yesterday: at the distance of two +and a quarter miles we passed a large creek with but little +water, to which we gave the name of Blowingfly creek, +from the quantity of those insects found in its neighbourhood. +They are extremely troublesome, infesting our meat +whilst cooking and at our meals. After making seven miles +we reached by eleven o'clock the mouth of a large river on +the south, and encamped for the day at the upper point of +its junction with the Missouri. This stream which we suppose +to be that called by the Minnetarees the Muscleshell +river, empties into the Missouri two thousand two hundred +and seventy miles above the mouth of the latter river, and +in latitude 47° 0' 24" 6 north. It is one hundred and ten +yards wide, and contains more water than streams of that +size usually do in this country; its current is by no means +rapid, and there is every appearance of its being susceptible +of navigation by canoes for a considerable distance: its +bed is chiefly formed of coarse sand and gravel, with an +occasional mixture of black mud; the banks abrupt and nearly +twelve feet high, so that they are secure from being overflowed: +the water is of a greenish yellow cast and much +more transparent than that of the Missouri, which itself, +though clearer than below, still retains its whitish hue and +a portion of its sediment. Opposite to the point of junction +the current of the Missouri is gentle, and two hundred and +twenty-two yards in width, the bed principally of mud (the +little sand remaining being wholly confined to the points) +and still too deep to use the setting pole. If this be, as we +suppose, the Muscleshell, our Indian information is, that +it rises in the first chain of the Rocky mountains not far +from the sources of the Yellowstone, whence in its course +to this place it waters a high broken country, well timbered +particularly on its borders, and interspersed with handsome +fertile plains and meadows. We have reason, however, to +believe, from their giving a similar account of the timber +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_222" id="Pg_222" title="Pg_222">[222]</a></span>where we now are, that the timber of which they speak is +similar to that which we have seen for a few days past, +which consists of nothing more than a few straggling small +pine and dwarf cedar, on the summits of the hills, nine-tenths +of the ground being totally destitute of wood, and covered +with a short grass, aromatic herbs, and an immense quantity +of prickly pears: though the party who explored it for +eight miles represented low grounds on the river as well +supplied with cottonwood of a tolerable size, and of an excellent +soil. They also reported that the country is broken +and irregular like that near our camp; that about five miles +up a handsome river about fifty yards wide, which we named +after Chaboneau's wife, Sahcajahweah, or Birdwoman's +river, discharges itself into the Muscleshell on the +north or upper side. Another party found at the foot of +the southern hills, about four miles from the Missouri, a +fine bold spring, which in this country is so rare that since +we left the Mandans we have found only one of a similar +kind, and that was under the bluffs on the south side of the +Missouri, at some distance from it, and about five miles below +the Yellowstone: with this exception all the small fountains +of which we have met a number are impregnated with +the salts which are so abundant here, and with which the +Missouri is itself most probably tainted, though to us who +have been so much accustomed to it, the taste is not perceptible. +Among the game to-day we observed two large owls, +with remarkably long feathers resembling ears on the sides +of the head, which we presume are the hooting owls, though +they are larger and their colours are brighter than those +common in the United States.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 21. The morning being very fine we were able +to employ the rope and made twenty miles to our camp on +the north. The shores of the river are abrupt, bold and +composed of a black and yellow clay, the bars being formed +of black mud, and a small proportion of fine sand; the current +strong. In its course the Missouri makes a sudden +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_223" id="Pg_223" title="Pg_223">[223]</a></span>and extensive bend towards the south, to receive the waters +of the Muscleshell. The neck of land thus formed, though +itself high is lower than the surrounding country, and makes +a waving valley extending for a great distance to the northward, +with a fertile soil which, though without wood, produces +a fine turf of low grass, some herbs and vast quantities +of prickly pear. The country on the south is high, +broken, and crowned with some pine and dwarf cedar; the +leaf of this pine is longer than that of the common pitch or +red pine of Virginia, the cone is longer and narrower, the +imbrications wider and thicker, and the whole frequently +covered with rosin. During the whole day the bends of the +river are short and sudden; and the points covered with +some cottonwood, large or broad leaved willow, and a small +quantity of redwood; the undergrowth consisting of wild +roses, and the bushes of the small honeysuckle.</p> + +<p>The mineral appearances on the river are as usual. We +do not find the grouse or prairie hen so abundant as below, +and think it probable that they retire from the river to the +plains during this season.</p> + +<p>The wind had been moderate during the fore part of the +day, but continued to rise towards evening, and about dark +veered to northeast, and blew a storm all night. We had +encamped on a bar on the north, opposite the lower point +of an island, which from this circumstance we called Windy +island; but we were so annoyed by clouds of dust and sand +that we could neither eat nor sleep, and were forced to remove +our camp at eight o'clock to the foot of an adjoining +hill, which shielded us in some degree from the wind: we +procured elk, deer, and buffaloe.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 22. The wind blew so violently that it was +deemed prudent to wait till it had abated, so that we did +not leave the camp till ten o'clock, when we proceeded +principally by the towline. We passed Windy island which +is about three quarters of a mile in length: and five and a +half miles above it a large island in a bend to the north: +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_224" id="Pg_224" title="Pg_224">[224]</a></span>three miles beyond this we came to the entrance of a creek +twenty yards wide, though with little water, which we called +Grouse creek, from observing near its mouth a quantity +of the prairie hen with pointed tails, the first we have seen +in such numbers for several days: the low grounds are +somewhat wider than usual and apparently fertile, though +the short and scanty grass on the hills does not indicate +much richness of soil. The country around is not so broken +as that of yesterday, but is still waving, the southern +hills possessing more pine than usual, and some appearing +on the northern hills, which are accompanied by the usual +salt and mineral appearances.</p> + +<p>The river continues about two hundred and fifty yards +wide, with fewer sandbars, and the current more gentle +and regular. Game is no longer in such abundance, since +leaving the Muscleshell. We have caught very few fish on +this side of the Mandans, and these were the white catfish +of two to five pounds. We killed a deer and a bear: we +have not seen in this quarter the black bear, common in the +United States and on the lower parts of the Missouri, nor +have we discerned any of their tracks, which may easily be +distinguished by the shortness of its talons from the brown, +grizzly, or white bear, all of which seem to be of the same +family, which assumes those colours at different seasons of +the year. We halted earlier than usual, and encamped on +the north, in a point of woods, at the distance of sixteen +and a half miles.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_225" id="Pg_225" title="Pg_225">[225]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The party continue their route—description of Judith river—Indian mode of +taking the buffaloe—Slaughter river described—phenomena of nature—of +walls on the banks of the Missouri—the party encamp on the banks of the river +to ascertain which of the streams constitute the Missouri—captain Lewis +leaves the party to explore the northern fork, and captain Clarke explores +the southern—the surrounding country described in the route of captain Lewis—narrow +escape of one of his party.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>Thursday 23. Last night the frost was severe, and this +morning the ice appeared along the edges of the river, and +the water froze on our oars. At the distance of a mile we +passed the entrance of a creek on the north, which we named +Teapot creek; it is fifteen yards wide, and although it +has running water at a small distance from its mouth, yet it +discharges none into the Missouri, resembling, we believe, +most of the creeks in this hilly country, the waters of which +are absorbed by the thirsty soil near the river. They indeed +afford but little water in any part, and even that is so +strongly tainted with salts that it is unfit for use, though +all the wild animals are very fond of it. On experiment it +was found to be moderately purgative, but painful to the intestines +in its operation. This creek seems to come from a +range of low hills, which run from east to west for seventy +miles, and have their eastern extremity thirty miles to the +north of Teapot creek. Just above its entrance is a large +assemblage of the burrowing squirrels on the north side of +the river. At nine miles we reached the upper point of an +island in a bend on the south, and opposite the centre of the +island, a small dry creek on the north. Half a mile further +a small creek falls in on the same side; and six and a half +miles beyond this another on the south. At four and a half +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_226" id="Pg_226" title="Pg_226">[226]</a></span>we passed a small island in a deep bend to the north, and on +the same side in a deep northeastern bend of the river another +small island. None of these creeks however possessed +any water, and at the entrances of the islands, the two first +are covered with tall cottonwood timber, and the last with +willows only. The river has become more rapid, the country +much the same as yesterday, except that there is rather +more rocks on the face of the hills, and some small spruce pine +appears among the pitch. The wild roses are very abundant +and now in bloom; they differ from those of the United States +only in having the leaves and the bush itself of a somewhat +smaller size. We find the musquitoes troublesome, notwithstanding +the coolness of the morning. The buffaloe is +scarce to-day, but the elk, deer, and antelope, are very +numerous. The geese begin to lose the feathers of the +wings, and are unable to fly. We saw five bears, one of +which we wounded, but in swimming from us across the +river, he become entangled in some driftwood and sank. +We formed our camp on the north opposite to a hill and a +point of wood in a bend to the south, having made twenty-seven +miles.</p> + +<p>Friday 24. The water in the kettles froze one eighth of +an inch during the night; the ice appears along the margin +of the river, and the cottonwood trees which have lost nearly +all their leaves by the frost, are putting forth other buds. +We proceeded with the line principally till about nine o'clock, +when a fine breeze sprung up from the S.E. and enabled us +to sail very well, notwithstanding the rapidity of the current. +At one mile and a half is a large creek thirty yards +wide, and containing some water which it empties on the +north side, over a gravelly bed, intermixed with some stone. +A man who was sent up to explore the country returned in +the evening, after having gone ten miles directly towards +the ridge of mountains to the north, which is the source +of this as well as of Teapot creek. The air of these highlands +is so pure, that objects appear much nearer than +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_227" id="Pg_227" title="Pg_227">[227]</a></span>they really are, so that although our man went ten miles +without thinking himself by any means half way to the +mountains, they do not from the river appear more than +fifteen miles distant; this stream we called Northmountain +creek. Two and a half miles higher is a creek on the +south which is fifteen yards wide, but without any water, +and to which we gave the name of Littledog creek, from +a village of burrowing squirrels opposite to its entrance, +that being the name given by the French watermen to those +animals. Three miles from this a small creek enters on +the north, five beyond which is an island a quarter of a +mile in length, and two miles further a small river: this +falls in on the south, is forty yards wide, and discharges a +handsome stream of water; its bed rocky with gravel and +sand, and the banks high: we called it Southmountain +creek, as from its direction it seemed to rise in a range of +mountains about fifty or sixty miles to the S.W. of its entrance. +The low grounds are narrow and without timber; +the country high and broken; a large portion of black rock, +and brown sandy rock appears in the face of the hills, the +tops of which are covered with scattered pine, spruce and +dwarf cedar: the soil is generally poor, sandy near the tops +of the hills, and nowhere producing much grass, the low +grounds being covered with little else than the hysop, +or southern wood, and the pulpy-leafed thorn. Game is +more scarce, particularly beaver, of which we have seen but +few for several days, and the abundance or scarcity of which +seems to depend on the greater or less quantity of timber. +At twenty-four and a half miles we reached a point of woodland +on the south, where we observed that the trees had no +leaves, and encamped for the night. The high country +through which we have passed for some days, and where +we now are, we suppose to be a continuation of what the +French traders called the Cote Noire or Black hills. The +country thus denominated consists of high broken irregular +hills and short chains of mountains; sometimes one hundred +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_228" id="Pg_228" title="Pg_228">[228]</a></span>and twenty miles in width, sometimes narrower, but always +much higher than the country on either side. They commence +about the head of the Kanzas, where they diverge; +the first ridge going westward, along the northern shore of +the Arkansaw; the second approaches the Rock mountains +obliquely in a course a little to the W. of N.W. and after +passing the Platte above its forks, and intersecting the Yellowstone +near the Bigbend, crosses the Missouri at this +place, and probably swell the country as far as the Saskashawan, +though as they are represented much smaller here +than to the south, they may not reach that river.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 25th. Two canoes which were left behind +yesterday to bring on the game, did not join us till eight +o'clock this morning, when we set out with the towline, the +use of which the banks permitted. The wind was, however, +ahead, the current strong, particularly round the +points against which it happened to set, and the gullies +from the hills having brought down quantities of stone, +those projected into the river, forming barriers for forty or +fifty feet round, which it was very difficult to pass. At the +distance of two and three quarter miles we passed a small +island in a deep bend on the south, and on the same side a +creek twenty yards wide, but with no running water. +About a mile further is an island between two and three +miles in length, separated from the northern shore by a +narrow channel, in which is a sand island at the distance of +half a mile from its lower extremity. To this large island +we gave the name of Teapot island; two miles above which +is an island a mile long, and situated on the south. At three +and a half miles is another small island, and one mile beyond +it a second three quarters of a mile in length, on the +north side. In the middle of the river two miles above this +is an island with no timber, and of the same extent as this +last. The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky; +the rock being either a soft brown sandstone, covered +with a thin stratum of limestone, or else a hard black rugged +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_229" id="Pg_229" title="Pg_229">[229]</a></span>granite, both usually in horizontal stratas, and the +sandrock overlaying the other. Salts and quartz as well +as some coal and pumicestone still appear: the bars of the +river are composed principally of gravel; the river low +grounds are narrow, and afford scarcely any timber; nor +is there much pine on the hills. The buffaloe have now become +scarce: we saw a polecat this evening, which was the +first for several days: in the course of the day we also saw +several herds of the big-horned animals among the steep +cliffs on the north, and killed several of them. At the distance +of eighteen miles we encamped on the south, and the +next morning,</p> + +<p>Sunday, 26th, proceeded on at an early hour by means +of the towline, using our oars merely in passing the river, +to take advantage of the best banks. There are now scarcely +any low grounds on the river, the hills being high and +in many places pressing on both sides to the verge of the +water. The black rock has given place to a very soft sandstone, +which seems to be washed away fast by the river, and +being thrown into the river renders its navigation more difficult +than it was yesterday: above this sandstone, and towards +the summits of the hills, a hard freestone of a yellowish +brown colour shows itself in several stratas of unequal +thickness, frequently overlaid or incrusted by a thin +stratum of limestone, which seems to be formed of concreted +shells. At eight and a quarter miles we came to the mouth +of a creek on the north, thirty yards wide, with some running +water and a rocky bed: we called it Windsor creek, +after one of the party. Four and three quarter miles beyond +this we came to another creek in a bend to the north, +which is twenty yards wide, with a handsome little stream +of water: there is however no timber on either side of the +river, except a few pines on the hills. Here we saw for +the first time since we left the Mandans several soft shelled +turtles, though this may be owing rather to the season +of the year than to any scarcity of the animal. It was here +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_230" id="Pg_230" title="Pg_230">[230]</a></span>that after ascending the highest summits of the hills on the +north side of the river, that captain Lewis first caught a distant +view of the Rock mountains, the object of all our hopes, +and the reward of all our ambition. On both sides of the +river and at no great distance from it, the mountains followed +its course: above these, at the distance of fifty miles +from us, an irregular range of mountains spread themselves +from west to northwest from his position. To the north of +these a few elevated points, the most remarkable of which +bore north 65° west, appeared above the horizon, and as the +sun shone on the snows of their summits he obtained a clear +and satisfactory view of those mountains which close on +the Missouri the passage to the Pacific. Four and a half +miles beyond this creek we came to the upper point of a +small sand island. At the distance of five miles between +high bluffs, we passed a very difficult rapid, reaching quite +across the river, where the water is deep, the channel narrow, +and gravel obstructing it on each side: we had great +difficulty in ascending it, although we used both the rope +and the pole, and doubled the crews: this is the most considerable +rapid on the Missouri, and in fact the only place +where there is a sudden descent: as we were labouring over +them, a female elk with its fawn swam down through the +waves, which ran very high, and obtained for the place +the name of the Elk Rapids. Just above them is a small +low ground of cottonwood trees, where, at twenty-two and +a quarter miles we fixed our encampment, and were joined +by captain Lewis, who had been on the hills during the afternoon.</p> + +<p>The country has now become desert and barren: the +appearances of coal, burnt earth, pumicestone, salts, and +quartz, continue as yesterday: but there is no timber except +the thinly scattered pine and spruce on the summits of +the hills, or along the sides. The only animals we have +observed are the elk, the bighorn, and the hare, common +in this country. In the plain where we lie are two Indian +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_231" id="Pg_231" title="Pg_231">[231]</a></span>cabins made of sticks, and during the last few days we have +passed several others in the points of timber on the river.</p> + +<p>Monday, 27. The wind was so high that we did not +start till ten o'clock, and even then were obliged to use the +line during the greater part of the day. The river has become +very rapid with a very perceptible descent: its general +width is about two hundred yards: the shoals too are +more frequent, and the rocky points at the mouth of the +gullies more troublesome to pass: great quantities of this +stone lie in the river and on its banks, and seem to have fallen +down as the rain washed away the clay and sand in +which they were imbedded. The water is bordered by +high rugged bluffs, composed of irregular but horizontal +stratas of yellow and brown or black clay, brown and +yellowish white sand, soft yellowish white sandstone: hard +dark brown freestone; and also large round kidney formed +irregular separate masses of a hard black ironstone, imbedded +in the clay and sand; some coal or carbonated wood +also makes its appearance in the cliffs, as do also its usual +attendants the pumicestone and burnt earth. The salts and +quartz are less abundant, and generally speaking the country +is if possible more rugged and barren than that we passed +yesterday; the only growth of the hills being a few pine, +spruce, and dwarf cedar, interspersed with an occasional +contrast once in the course of some miles, of several acres +of level ground, which supply a scanty subsistence for a +few little cottonwood trees.</p> + +<p>Soon after setting out we passed a small untimbered +island on the south: at about seven miles we reached a considerable +bend which the river makes towards the southeast, +and in the evening, after making twelve and a half +miles, encamped on the south near two dead cottonwood +trees, the only timber for fuel which we could discover in +the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 28. The weather was dark and cloudy; the +air smoky, and there fell a few drops of rain. At ten o'clock +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_232" id="Pg_232" title="Pg_232">[232]</a></span>we had again a slight sprinkling of rain, attended with distant +thunder, which is the first we have heard since leaving +the Mandans. We employed the line generally, with the +addition of the pole at the ripples and rocky points, which +we find more numerous and troublesome than those we passed +yesterday. The water is very rapid round these points, +and we are sometimes obliged to steer the canoes through +the points of sharp rocks rising a few inches above the surface +of the water, and so near to each other that if our +ropes give way the force of the current drives the sides of +the canoe against them, and must inevitably upset them or +dash them to pieces. These cords are very slender, being +almost all made of elkskin, and much worn and rotted by +exposure to the weather: several times they gave way, but +fortunately always in places where there was room for the +canoe to turn without striking the rock; yet with all our +precautions it was with infinite risk and labour that we passed +these points. An Indian pole for building floated down +the river, and was worn at one end as if dragged along the +ground in travelling; several other articles were also brought +down by the current, which indicate that the Indians are +probably at no great distance above us, and judging from a +football which resembles those used by the Minnetarees +near the Mandans, we conjecture that they must be a band +of the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie. The appearance of +the river and the surrounding country continued as usual, +till towards evening, at about fifteen miles, we reached a +large creek on the north thirty-five yards wide, discharging +some water, and named after one of our men Thompson's +creek. Here the country assumed a totally different +aspect; the hills retired on both sides from the river, which +now spreads to more than three times its former size, and +is filled with a number of small handsome islands covered +with cottonwood. The low grounds on the river are again +wide, fertile, and enriched with trees; those on the north +are particularly wide, the hills being comparatively low and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_233" id="Pg_233" title="Pg_233">[233]</a></span>opening into three large vallies, which extend themselves +for a considerable distance towards the north: these appearances +of vegetation are delightful after the dreary hills +over which we have passed, and we have now to congratulate +ourselves at having escaped from the last ridges of the +Black mountains. On leaving Thompson's creek we passed +two small islands, and at twenty-three miles distance +encamped among some timber on the north, opposite to +a small creek, which we named Bull creek. The bighorn +is in great quantities, and must bring forth their young +at a very early season, as they are now half grown. One of +the party saw a large bear also, but being at a distance from +the river, and having no timber to conceal him, he would +not venture to fire.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 29. Last night we were alarmed by a new +sort of enemy. A buffaloe swam over from the opposite +side and to the spot where lay one of our canoes, over +which he clambered to the shore: then taking fright he ran +full speed up the bank towards our fires, and passed within +eighteen inches of the heads of some of the men, before the +sentinel could make him change his course: still more alarmed +he ran down between four fires and within a few inches +of the heads of the second row of the men, and would have +broken into our lodge if the barking of the dog had not +stopped him. He suddenly turned to the right and was out +of sight in a moment, leaving us all in confusion, every one +seizing his rifle and inquiring the cause of the alarm. On +learning what had happened, we had to rejoice at suffering no +more injury than the damage to some guns which were in +the canoe which the buffaloe crossed.</p> + +<p>In the morning early we left our camp, and proceeded +as usual by the cord. We passed an island and two sandbars, +and at the distance of two and a half miles we came to a +handsome river which discharges itself on the south, and +which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half: +we called it Judith's river: it rises in the Rock mountains +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_234" id="Pg_234" title="Pg_234">[234]</a></span>in about the same place with the Muscleshell and near the +Yellowstone river. Its entrance is one hundred yards wide +from one bank to the other, the water occupying about +seventy-five yards, and in greater quantity than that of the +Muscleshell river, and though more rapid equally navigable, +there being no stones or rocks in the bed, which is composed +entirely of gravel and mud with some sand: the water +too is clearer than any which we have yet seen; and the low +grounds, as far as we could discern, wider and more woody +than those of the Missouri: along its banks we observed +some box-alder intermixed with the cottonwood and the +willow; the undergrowth consisting of rosebushes, honeysuckle, +and a little red willow. There was a great abundance +of the argalea or bighorned animals in the high country +through which it passes, and a great number of the beaver +in its waters: just above the entrance of it we saw the +fires of one hundred and twenty-six lodges, which appeared +to have been deserted about twelve or fifteen days, and on +the other side of the Missouri a large encampment, apparently +made by the same nation. On examining some moccasins +which we found there, our Indian woman said that +they did not belong to her own nation the Snake Indians, +but she thought that they indicated a tribe on this side of +the Rocky mountain, and to the north of the Missouri; indeed +it is probable that these are the Minnetarees of fort +de Prairie. At the distance of six and a half miles the +hills again approach the brink of the river, and the stones +and rocks washed down from them form a very bad rapid, +with rocks and ripples more numerous and difficult than +those we passed on the 27th and 28th; here the same scene +was renewed, and we had again to struggle and labour to +preserve our small craft from being lost. Near this spot +are a few trees of the ash, the first we have seen for a great +distance, and from which we named the place Ash Rapids. +On these hills there is but little timber, but the salts, coal, +and other mineral appearances continue. On the north we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_235" id="Pg_235" title="Pg_235">[235]</a></span>passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet high, +under which lay scattered the fragments of at least one hundred +carcases of buffaloes, although the water which had +washed away the lower part of the hill must have carried +off many of the dead. These buffaloe had been chased +down the precipice in a way very common on the Missouri, +and by which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. The +mode of hunting is to select one of the most active and fleet +young men, who is disguised by a buffaloe skin round his +body; the skin of the head with the ears and horns fastened +on his own head in such a way as to deceive the buffaloe: +thus dressed, he fixes himself at a convenient distant between +a herd of buffaloe and any of the river precipices, +which sometimes extend for some miles. His companions +in the meantime get in the rear and side of the herd, and +at a given signal show themselves, and advance towards the +buffaloe: they instantly take the alarm, and finding the hunters +beside them, they run towards the disguised Indian or +decoy, who leads them on at full speed toward the river, +when suddenly securing himself in some crevice of the cliff +which he had previously fixed on, the herd is left on the +brink of the precipice: it is then in vain for the foremost +to retreat or even to stop; they are pressed on by the hindmost +rank, who seeing no danger but from the hunters, +goad on those before them till the whole are precipitated +and the shore is strewn with their dead bodies. Sometimes +in this perilous seduction the Indian is himself either trodden +under root by the rapid movements of the buffaloe, or +missing his footing in the cliff is urged down the precipice +by the falling herd. The Indians then select as much meat +as they wish, and the rest is abandoned to the wolves, and +create a most dreadful stench. The wolves who had been +feasting on these carcases were very fat, and so gentle that +one of them was killed with an esponton. Above this place +we came to for dinner at the distance of seventeen miles, +opposite to a bold running river of twenty yards wide, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_236" id="Pg_236" title="Pg_236">[236]</a></span>falling in on the south. From the objects we had just passed +we called this stream Slaughter river. Its low grounds +are narrow, and contain scarcely any timber. Soon after +landing it began to blow and rain, and as there was no prospect +of getting wood for fuel farther on, we fixed our camp +on the north, three quarters of a mile above Slaughter river. +After the labours of the day we gave to each man a dram, +and such was the effect of long abstinence from spirituous +liquors, that from the small quantity of half a gill of rum, +several of the men were considerably affected by it, and all +very much exhilirated. Our game to-day consisted of an +elk and two beaver.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 30. The rain which commenced last evening +continued with little intermission till eleven this morning, +when the high wind which accompanied it having abated, we +set out. More rain has now fallen than we have had since the +1st of September last, and many circumstances indicate our +approach to a climate differing considerably from that of the +country through which we have been passing: the air of the +open country is astonishingly dry and pure. Observing that the +case of our sextant, though perfectly seasoned, shrank and +the joints opened, we tried several experiments, by which +it appeared that a tablespoon full of water exposed in a +saucer to the air would evaporate in thirty-six hours, when +the mercury did not stand higher than the temperate point +at the greatest heat of the day. The river, notwithstanding +the rain, is much clearer than it was a few days past; but +we advance with great labour and difficulty; the rapid current, +the ripples and rocky points rendering the navigation +more embarrassing than even that of yesterday, in addition +to which the banks are now so slippery after the rain, that +the men who draw the canoes can scarcely walk, and the +earth and stone constantly falling down the high bluffs +make it dangerous to pass under them; still however we are +obliged to make use of the cord, as the wind is strong +ahead, the current too rapid for oars, and too deep for the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_237" id="Pg_237" title="Pg_237">[237]</a></span>pole. In this way we passed at the distance of five and a +half miles a small rivulet in a bend on the north, two miles +further an island on the same side, half a mile beyond which +came to a grove of trees at the entrance of a run in a bend +to the south, and encamped for the night on the northern +shore. The eight miles which we made to-day cost us much +trouble. The air was cold and rendered more disagreeable +by the rain, which fell in several slight showers in the +course of the day; our cords too broke several times, but +fortunately without injury to the boats. On ascending the +hills near the river, one of the party found that there was +snow mixed with the rain on the heights: a little back of +these the country becomes perfectly level on both sides of the +river. There is now no timber on the hills, and only a few scattering +cottonwood, ash, box-alder, and willows, along the water. +In the course of the day we passed several encampments +of Indians, the most recent of which seemed to have been +evacuated about five weeks since, and from the several apparent +dates we supposed that they were made by a band of +about one hundred lodges who were travelling slowly up the +river. Although no part of the Missouri from the Minnetarees +to this place exhibit signs of permanent settlements, yet none +seem exempt from the transient visits of hunting parties. +We know that the Minnetarees of the Missouri extend their +excursions on the south side of the river, as high as the +Yellowstone; and the Assiniboins visit the northern side, +most probably as high as Porcupine river. All the lodges +between that place and the Rocky mountains we supposed +to belong to the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie, who live on +the south fork of the Saskashawan.</p> + +<p>Friday, 31. We proceeded in two periogues, leaving the +canoes to bring on the meat of two buffaloes killed last evening. +Soon after we set off it began to rain, and though it +ceased at noon, the weather continued cloudy during the +rest of the day. The obstructions of yesterday still remain +and fatigue the men excessively: the banks are so slippery +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_238" id="Pg_238" title="Pg_238">[238]</a></span>in some places and the mud so adhesive that they are unable +to wear their moccasins; one fourth of the time they are +obliged to be up to their armpits in the cold water, and +sometimes walk for several yards over the sharp fragments +of rocks which have fallen from the hills: all this added to +the burden of dragging the heavy canoes is very painful, +yet the men bear it with great patience and good humour. +Once the rope of one of the periogues, the only one we had +made of hemp, broke short, and the periogue swung and just +touched a point of rock which almost overset her. At nine +miles we came to a high wall of black rock rising from the +water's edge on the south, above the cliffs of the river: this +continued about a quarter of a mile, and was succeeded by a +high open plain, till three miles further a second wall two +hundred feet high rose on the same side. Three miles further +a wall of the same kind about two hundred feet high +and twelve in thickness, appeared to the north: these hills +and river cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and romantic +appearance: they rise in most places nearly perpendicular +from the water, to the height of between two and three hundred +feet, and are formed of very white sandstone, so soft +as to yield readily to the impression of water, in the upper +part of which lie imbedded two or three thin horizontal +stratas of white freestone insensible to the rain, and on the +top is a dark rich loam, which forms a gradually ascending +plain, from a mile to a mile and a half in extent, when +the hills again rise abruptly to the height of about three +hundred feet more. In trickling down the cliffs, the water +has worn the soft sandstone into a thousand grotesque +figures, among which with a little fancy may be discerned +elegant ranges of freestone buildings, with columns variously +sculptured, and supporting long and elegant galleries, +while the parapets are adorned with statuary: on a nearer +approach they represent every form of elegant ruins; columns, +some with pedestals and capitals entire, others mutilated +and prostrate, and some rising pyramidally over each +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_239" id="Pg_239" title="Pg_239">[239]</a></span>other till they terminate in a sharp point. These are varied +by niches, alcoves, and the customary appearances of +desolated magnificence: the allusion is increased by the +number of martins, who have built their globular nests in +the niches and hover over these columns; as in our country +they are accustomed to frequent large stone structures. As +we advance there seems no end to the visionary enchantment +which surrounds us. In the midst of this fantastic +scenery are vast ranges of walls, which seem the productions +of art, so regular is the workmanship: they rise perpendicularly +from the river, sometimes to the height of +one hundred feet, varying in thickness from one to twelve +feet, being equally broad at the top as below. The stones +of which they are formed are black, thick, and durable, and +composed of a large portion of earth, intermixed and cemented +with a small quantity of sand, and a considerable proportion +of talk or quartz. These stones are almost invariably +regular parallelipeds of unequal sizes in the wall, but +equally deep, and laid regularly in ranges over each other +like bricks, each breaking and covering the interstice of the +two on which it rests: but though the perpendicular interstice +be destroyed, the horizontal one extends entirely +through the whole work: the stones too are proportioned to +the thickness of the wall in which they are employed, being +largest in the thickest walls. The thinner walls are composed +of a single depth of the paralleliped, while the thicker +ones consist of two or more depths: these walls pass the +river at several places, rising from the water's edge much +above the sandstone bluffs which they seem to penetrate; +thence they cross in a straight line on either side of the +river, the plains over which they tower to the height of +from ten to seventy feet, until they lose themselves in the +second range of hills: sometimes they run parallel in several +ranges near to each other, sometimes intersect each other +at right angles, and have the appearance of walls of ancient +houses or gardens.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_240" id="Pg_240" title="Pg_240">[240]</a></span>The face of some of these river hills, is composed of +very excellent freestone of a light yellowish brown colour, +and among the cliffs we found a species of pine which we +had not yet seen, and differing from the Virginia pitchpine +in having a shorter leaf, and a longer and more pointed cone. +The coal appears only in small quantities, as do the burnt +earth and pumicestone: the mineral salts have abated. +Among the animals are a great number of the bighorn, a +few buffaloe and elk, and some mule-deer, but none of the +common deer nor any antelopes. We saw but could not +procure a beautiful fox, of a colour varied with orange, yellow, +white, and black, rather smaller than the common fox +of this country, and about the same size as the red fox of the +United States.</p> + +<p>The river to-day has been from about one hundred and +fifty to two hundred and fifty yards wide, with but little timber. +At the distance of two miles and a half from the last +stone wall, is a stream on the north side, twenty-eight +yards in width, and with some running water. We encamped +just above its mouth having made eighteen miles.</p> + +<p>Saturday, June 1. The weather was cloudy with a few +drops of rain. As we proceeded by the aid of our cord we +found the river cliffs and bluffs not so high as yesterday, and +the country more level. The timber too is in greater abundance +on the river, though there is no wood on the high +ground; coal however appears in the bluffs. The river is +from two hundred to two hundred and fifty feet wide, the +current more gentle, the water becoming still clearer and +fewer rocky points and shoals than we met yesterday, though +those which we did encounter were equally difficult to pass. +Game is by no means in such plenty as below; all that we +obtained were one bighorn, and a mule-deer though we saw +in the plains a quantity of buffaloe, particularly near a small +lake about eight miles from the river to the south. +Notwithstanding the wind was ahead all day, we dragged the +canoes along the distance of twenty-three miles. At fourteen +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_241" id="Pg_241" title="Pg_241">[241]</a></span>and a quarter miles, we came to a small island opposite a +bend of the river to the north: two and a half miles to +the upper point of a small island on the north; five miles to +another island on the south side and opposite to a bluff. In +the next two miles we passed an island on the south, a second +beyond it on the north, and reached near a high bluff +on the north a third on which we encamped. In the plains +near the river are the chokecherry, yellow and red currant-bushes, +as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of +which are now in bloom. From the tops of the river hills, +which are lower than usual, we enjoyed a delightful view +of the rich fertile plains on both sides, in many places +extending from the river cliffs to a great distance back. In +these plains we meet occasionally large banks of pure sand, +which were driven apparently by the southwest winds, and +there deposited. The plains are more fertile some distance +from the river than near its banks, where the surface +of the earth is very generally strewed with small pebbles, +which appear to be smoothed and worn by the agitation of +the waters with which they were no doubt once covered. +A mountain or part of the North mountain approaches the +river within eight or ten miles, bearing north from our encampment +of last evening; and this morning a range of high +mountains bearing S.W. from us and apparently running to +the westward, are seen at a great distance covered with +snow. In the evening we had a little more rain.</p> + +<p>Sunday 2. The wind blew violently last night, and a slight +shower of rain fell, but this morning was fair. We set out at +an early hour, and although the wind was ahead by means +of the cord went on much better than for the last two days, +as the banks were well calculated for towing. The current +of the river is strong but regular, its timber increases in +quantity, the low grounds become more level and extensive, +and the bluffs on the river are lower than usual. In the +course of the day we had a small shower of rain, which lasted +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_242" id="Pg_242" title="Pg_242">[242]</a></span>a few minutes only. As the game is very abundant we +think it necessary to begin a collection of hides for the purpose +of making a leathern boat, which we intend constructing +shortly. The hunters who were out the greater part of the +day brought in six elk, two buffaloe, two mule-deer and a +bear. This last animal had nearly cost us the lives of two +of our hunters who were together when he attacked +them: one of them narrowly escaped being caught, and the +other after running a considerable distance, concealed himself +in some thick bushes, and while the bear was in quick +pursuit of his hiding place, his companion came up and fortunately +shot the animal through the head.</p> + +<p>At six and at half miles we reached an island on the +northern side; one mile and a quarter thence is a timbered +low ground on the south: and in the next two and three quarter +miles we passed three small islands, and came to a dark +bluff on the south: within the following mile are two small +islands on the same side. At three and a quarter miles we +reached the lower part of a much larger island near a northern +point, and as we coasted along its side, within two miles +passed a smaller island, and half a mile above reached the +head of another. All these islands are small, and most of +them contain some timber. Three quarters of a mile beyond +the last, and at the distance of eighteen miles from our +encampment, we came to for the night in a handsome low +cottonwood plain on the south, where we remained for the +purpose of making some celestial observations during the +night, and of examining in the morning a large river which +comes in opposite to us. Accordingly at an early hour,</p> + +<p>Monday, 3d, we crossed and fixed our camp in the point, +formed by the junction of the river with the Missouri. It +now became an interesting question which of these two +streams is what the Minnetarees call Ahmateahza or the +Missouri, which they described as approaching very near +to the Columbia. On our right decision much of the fate of the +expedition depends; since if after ascending to the Rocky +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_243" id="Pg_243" title="Pg_243">[243]</a></span>mountains or beyond them, we should find that the river +we were following did not come near the Columbia, and be +obliged to return; we should not only lose the travelling +season, two months of which had already elapsed, but probably +dishearten the men so much as to induce them either +to abandon the enterprise, or yield us a cold obedience instead +of the warm and zealous support which they had +hitherto afforded us. We determined, therefore, to examine +well before we decided on our future course; and for +this purpose despatched two canoes with three men up each +of the streams with orders to ascertain the width, depth, +and rapidity of the current, so as to judge of their comparative +bodies of water. At the same time parties were sent +out by land to penetrate the country, and discover from the +rising grounds, if possible, the distant bearings of the two +rivers; and all were directed to return towards evening. +While they were gone we ascended together the high +grounds in the fork of these two rivers, whence we had a +very extensive prospect of the surrounding country: on +every side it was spread into one vast plain covered with +verdure, in which innumerable herds of buffaloe were +roaming, attended by their enemies the wolves: some flocks +of elk also were seen, and the solitary antelopes were scattered +with their young over the face of the plain. To the +south was a range of lofty mountains, which we supposed +to be a continuation of the South mountain, stretching themselves +from southeast to northwest, and terminating abruptly +about southwest from us. These were partially covered +with snow; but at a great distance behind them was a +more lofty ridge completely covered with snow, which +seemed to follow the same direction as the first, reaching +from west to the north of northwest, where their snowy +tops were blended with the horizon. The direction of the +rivers could not however be long distinguished, as they were +soon lost in the extent of the plain. On our return we continued +our examination; the width of the north branch is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_244" id="Pg_244" title="Pg_244">[244]</a></span>two hundred yards, that of the south is three hundred and +seventy-two. The north, although narrower and with a +gentler current, is deeper than the south: its waters too are +of the same whitish brown colour, thickness, and turbidness: +they run in the same boiling and rolling manner which has +uniformly characterized the Missouri; and its bed is composed +of some gravel, but principally mud. The south fork +is deeper, but its waters are perfectly transparent: its current +is rapid, but the surface smooth and unruffled; and its +bed too is composed of round and flat smooth stones like +those of rivers issuing from a mountainous country. The air +and character of the north fork so much resemble those of +the Missouri that almost all the party believe that to be the +true course to be pursued. We however, although we have +given no decided opinion, are inclined to think otherwise, +because, although this branch does give the colour and character +to the Missouri, yet these very circumstances induce +an opinion that it rises in and runs through an open plain +country, since if it came from the mountains it would be +clearer, unless, which from the position of the country is +improbable, it passed through a vast extent of low ground +after leaving them: we thought it probable that it did not +even penetrate the Rocky mountains, but drew it sources from +the open country towards the lower and middle parts of the +Saskashawan, in a direction north of this place. What embarrasses +us most is, that the Indians who appeared to be +well acquainted with the geography of the country, have not +mentioned this northern river; for "the river which scolds +at all others," as it is termed, must be according to their +account one of the rivers which we have passed; and if this +north fork be the Missouri, why have they not designated +the south branch which they must also have passed, in order +to reach the great falls which they mention on the +Missouri. In the evening our parties returned, after ascending +the rivers in canoes for some distance, then continuing +on foot, just leaving themselves time to return by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_245" id="Pg_245" title="Pg_245">[245]</a></span>night. The north fork was less rapid, and therefore afforded +the easiest navigation: the shallowest water of the +north was five feet deep, that of the south six feet. At two +and a half miles up the north fork is a small river coming in +on the left or western side, sixty feet wide, with a bold +current three feet in depth. The party by land had gone up +the south fork in a straight line, somewhat north of west +for seven miles, where they discovered that this little river +came within one hundred yards of the south fork, and on returning +down it found it a handsome stream, with as much +timber as either of the larger rivers, consisting of the narrow +and wide-leafed cottonwood, some birch and box-alder, +amid undergrowth of willows, rosebushes, and currants: they +also saw on this river a great number of elk and some +beaver.</p> + +<p>All these accounts were however very far from deciding +the important question of our future route, and we therefore +determined each of us to ascend one of the rivers during +a day and a half's march, or farther if necessary, for our +satisfaction. Our hunters killed two buffaloe, six elk, and +four deer to-day. Along the plains near the junction, are +to be found the prickly pear in great quantities; the chokecherry +is also very abundant in the river low grounds, as +well as the ravines along the river bluffs; the yellow and red +currants are not yet ripe; the gooseberry is beginning to +ripen, and the wildrose which now covers all the low grounds +near the rivers is in full bloom. The fatigues of the last few +days have occasioned some falling off in the appearance of +the men, who not having been able to wear moccasins, had +their feet much bruised and mangled in passing over the +stones and rough ground. They are however perfectly +cheerful, and have an undiminished ardour for the expedition.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, June 4. At the same hour this morning captain +Lewis and captain Clarke set out to explore the two +rivers: captain Lewis with six men crossed the north fork +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_246" id="Pg_246" title="Pg_246">[246]</a></span>near the camp, below a small island from which he took a +course N. 30° W. for four and a half miles to a commanding +eminence. Here we observed that the North mountain, +changing its direction parallel to the Missouri, turned towards +the north and terminated abruptly at the distance of +about thirty miles, the point of termination bearing N. 48° E. +The South mountain too diverges to the south, and terminates +abruptly, its extremity bearing S. 8° W. distant about +twenty miles: to the right of, and retreating from this extremity, +is a separate mountain at the distance of thirty-five +miles in a direction S. 38° W. which from its resemblance +to the roof of a barn, we called the Barn mountain. The +north fork, which is now on the left, makes a considerable +bend to the northwest, and on its western border a range of +hills about ten miles long, and bearing from this spot N. 60° W. +runs parallel with it: north of this range of hills is +an elevated point of the river bluff on its south side, bearing +N. 72° W. about twelve miles from us; towards this he directed +his course across a high, level, dry open plain; which +in fact embraces the whole country to the foot of the mountains. +The soil is dark, rich, and fertile, yet the grass by +no means so luxuriant as might have been expected, for it +is short and scarcely more than sufficient to cover the +ground. There are vast quantities of prickly pears, and +myriads of grasshoppers, which afford food for a species of +curlew which is in great numbers in the plain. He then proceeded +up the river to the point of observation they had fixed +on; from which he went two miles N. 15° W. to a bluff point +on the north side of the river: thence his course was N. 30° W. +for two miles to the entrance of a large creek on the south. +The part of the river along which he passed is from forty +to sixty yards wide, the current strong, the water deep and +turbid, the banks falling in, the salts, coal and mineral appearances +are as usual, and in every respect, except as to +size, this river resembles the Missouri. The low grounds +are narrow but well supplied with wood: the bluffs are principally +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_247" id="Pg_247" title="Pg_247">[247]</a></span>of dark brown yellow, and some white clay with +freestone in some places. From this point the river bore +N. 20° E. to a bluff on the south, at the distance of twelve +miles: towards this he directed his course, ascending the +hills which are about two hundred feet high, and passing +through plains for three miles, till he found the dry ravines +so steep and numerous that he resolved to return to the +river and follow its banks. He reached it about four miles +from the beginning of his course, and encamped on the +north in a bend among some bushes which sheltered the +party from the wind: the air was very cold, the northwest +wind high, and the rain wet them to the skin. Besides the +game just mentioned, he observed buffaloe, elk, wolves, +foxes, and we got a blaireau and a weasel, and wounded a +large brown bear, whom it was too late to pursue. Along +the river are immense quantities of roses which are now in +full bloom, and which make the low grounds a perfect garden.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 5. The rain fell during the greater part of +the last night, and in the morning the weather was cloudy +and cold, with a high northwest wind: at sunrise he proceeded +up the river eight miles to the bluff on the left +side, towards which he had been directing his course yesterday. +Here he found the bed of a creek twenty-five yards +wide at the entrance, with some timber, but no water, notwithstanding +the rain: it is, indeed, astonishing to observe +the vast quantities of water absorbed by the soil of the +plains, which being opened in large crevices presents a fine +rich loam: at the mouth of this stream (which he called +Lark creek) the bluffs are very steep and approach the river +so that he ascended them, and crossing the plains reached +the river, which from the last point bore N. 50° W: four miles +from this place it extended north two miles. Here he discovered +a lofty mountain standing alone at the distance of +more than eighty miles in the direction of N. 30° W. and +which from its conical figure he called Tower mountain. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_248" id="Pg_248" title="Pg_248">[248]</a></span>He then proceeded on these two hills and afterwards in different +courses six miles, when he again changed for a western +course across a deep bend along the south side: in making +this passage over the plains he found them like those +of yesterday, level and beautiful, with great quantities of +buffaloes, and some wolves, foxes, and antelopes, and intersected +near the river by deep ravines. Here at the distance +of from one to nine miles from the river, he met the largest +village of barking squirrels which we had yet seen: for he +passed a skirt of their territory for seven miles. He also +saw near the hills a flock of the mountain cock or a large +species of heath hen with a long pointed tail, which the +Indians below had informed us were common among the +Rock mountains. Having finished his course of ten miles +west across a bend, he continued two miles N. 80° W. and +from that point discovered some lofty mountains to the +northwest of Tower mountain and bearing N. 65° W. +at eighty or one hundred miles distance: Here he encamped +on the north side in a handsome low ground, on which were +several old stick lodges: there had been but little timber on +the river in the forepart of the day, but now there is a +greater quantity than usual. The river itself is about eighty +yards wide, from six to ten feet deep, and has a strong steady +current. The party had killed five elk, and a mule-deer; +and by way of experiment roasted the burrowing squirrels, +which they found to be well flavoured and tender.</p> + +<p>Thursday 6. Captain Lewis was now convinced that this +river pursued a direction too far north for our route to the +Pacific, and therefore resolved to return; but waited till +noon to take a meridian altitude. The clouds, however, +which had gathered during the latter part of the night continued +and prevented the observation: part of the men were sent +forward to a commanding eminence, six miles S. 70° W; +from which they saw at the distance of about fifteen +miles S. 80° W. a point of the south bluff of the river, which +thence bore northwardly. In their absence two rafts had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_249" id="Pg_249" title="Pg_249">[249]</a></span>been prepared, and when they returned about noon, the +party embarked: but they soon found that the rafts were so +small and slender that the baggage was wet, and therefore +it was necessary to abandon them, and go by land. They +therefore crossed the plains, and at the distance of twelve +miles came to the river, through a cold storm from the +northeast, accompanied by showers of rain. The abruptness +of the cliffs compelled them, after going a few miles, +to leave the river and meet the storm in the plains. Here +they directed their course too far northward, in consequence +of which they did not meet the river till late at +night, after having travelled twenty-three miles since noon, +and halted at a little below the entrance of Lark creek. +They had the good fortune to kill two buffaloe which supplied +them with supper, but spent a very uncomfortable +night without any shelter from the rain, which continued +till morning,</p> + +<p>Friday 7, when at an early hour they continued down +the river. The route was extremely unpleasant, as the wind +was high from the N.E. accompanied with rain, which made +the ground so slippery that they were unable to walk over +the bluffs which they had passed on ascending the river. +The land is the most thirsty we have ever seen; notwithstanding +all the rain which has fallen, the earth is not wet +for more than two inches deep, and resembles thawed ground; +but if it requires more water to saturate it than the common +soils, on the other hand it yields its moisture with equal difficulty. +In passing along the side of one of these bluffs at a narrow +pass thirty yards in length, captain Lewis slipped, and +but for a fortunate recovery, by means of his espontoon, +would then have been precipitated into the river over a precipice +of about ninety feet. He had just reached a spot where by +the assistance of his espontoon he could stand with tolerable +safety, when he heard a voice behind him cry out, good +God captain what shall I do? he turned instantly and found +it was Windsor who had lost his foothold about the middle +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_250" id="Pg_250" title="Pg_250">[250]</a></span>of the narrow pass, and had slipped down to the very verge +of the precipice where he lay on his belly, with his right arm +and leg over the precipice, while with the other leg and arm +he was with difficulty holding on to keep himself from being +dashed to pieces below. His dreadful situation was instantly +perceived by captain Lewis, who stifling his alarm, calmly +told him that he was in no danger; that he should take +his knife out of his belt with the right hand, and dig a hole +in the side of the bluff to receive his right foot. With great +presence of mind he did this, and then raised himself on his +knees; captain Lewis then told him to take off his moccasins +and come forward on his hands and knees, holding the knife +in one hand and his rifle in the other. He immediately crawled +in this way till he came to a secure spot. The men who +had not attempted this passage, were ordered to return and +wade the river at the foot of the bluff, where they found the +water breast high. This adventure taught them the danger +of crossing the slippery heights of the river; but as the +plains were intersected by deep ravines almost as difficult +to pass, they continued down the river, sometimes in the +mud of the low grounds, sometimes up to their arms in the +water, and when it became too deep to wade, they cut footholds +with their knives in the sides of the banks. In this way +they travelled through the rain, mud, and water, and having +made only eighteen miles during the whole day, encamped in +an old Indian lodge of sticks, which afforded them a dry shelter. +Here they cooked part of six deer they had killed in +the course of their walk, and having eaten the only morsel +they had tasted during the whole day slept comfortably on +some willow boughs.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_251" id="Pg_251" title="Pg_251">[251]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Return of captain Lewis—Account of captain Clarke's researches with his exploring +party—Perilous situation of one of his party—Tansy river described—The +party still believing the southern fork the Missouri, captain Lewis resolves +to ascend it—Mode of making a place to deposit provisions, called cache—Captain +Lewis explores the southern fork—Falls of the Missouri discovered, +which ascertains the question—Romantic scenery of the surrounding country—Narrow +escape of captain Lewis—The main body under captain Clarke +approach within five miles of the falls, and prepare for making a portage over +the rapids.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>Saturday 8. It continued to rain moderately all last night, +and the morning was cloudy till about ten o'clock, when it +cleared off, and became a fine day. They breakfasted about +sunrise and then proceeded down the river in the same way +as they had done yesterday, except that the travelling was +somewhat better, as they had not so often to wade, though +they passed some very dangerous bluffs. The only timber +to be found is in the low grounds which are occasionally on +the river, and these are the haunts of innumerable birds, +who, when the sun began to shine, sang very delightfully. +Among these birds they distinguished the brown thrush, robin, +turtledove, linnet, goldfinch, the large and small blackbird, +the wren, and some others. As they came along, the whole +of the party were of opinion that this river was the true +Missouri, but captain Lewis being fully persuaded that it +was neither the main stream, nor that which it would be advisable +to ascend, gave it the name of Maria's river. After +travelling all day they reached the camp at five o'clock in the +afternoon, and found captain Clarke and the party very anxious +for their safety, as they had staid two days longer than +had been expected, and as captain Clarke had returned at +the appointed time, it was feared that they had met with +some accident.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_252" id="Pg_252" title="Pg_252">[252]</a></span>Captain Clarke on setting out with five men on the 4th, +went seven miles on a course S. 25° W. to a spring; thence +he went S. 20° W. for eight miles to the river where was +an island, from which he proceeded in a course N. 45° W. +and approached the river at the distance of three, five, and +thirteen miles, at which place they encamped in an old Indian +lodge made of sticks and bark. In crossing the plains they +observed several herds of buffaloe, some muledeer, antelopes +and wolves. The river is rapid and closely hemmed in by high +bluffs, crowded with bars of gravel, with little timber on +the low grounds, and none on the highlands. Near the camp +this evening, a white bear attacked one of the men, whose +gun happening to be wet, would not go off; he instantly made +towards a tree, but was so closely pursued, that as he ascended +the tree he struck the bear with his foot. The bear +not being able to climb, waited till he should be forced to +come down; and as the rest of the party were separated from +him by a perpendicular cliff of rocks, which they could not +descend, it was not in their power to give him any assistance: +fortunately however at last the bear became frighted at their +cries and firing, and released the man. In the afternoon it +rained, and during the night there fell both rain and snow, +and in the morning.</p> + +<p>June 5, the hills to the S.E. were covered with snow, +and the rain continued. They proceeded on in a course N. 20° W. +near the river several miles, till at the distance of +eleven miles they reached a ridge, from the top of which on +the north side they could plainly discern a mountain to the S. +and W. at a great distance covered with snow; a high ridge +projecting from the mountains to the southeast approaches +the river on the southeast side, forming some cliffs of dark +hard stone. They also saw that the river ran for a great +distance west of south, with a rapid current, from which as +well as its continuing of the same width and depth, captain +Clarke thought it useless to advance any further, and therefore +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_253" id="Pg_253" title="Pg_253">[253]</a></span>returned across the level plain in a direction north 30° +east, and reached at the distance of twenty miles the little +river which is already mentioned as falling into the north +fork, and to which they gave the name of Tansy river, from +the great quantity of that herb growing on its banks. Here +they dined, and then proceeded on a few miles by a place +where the Tansy breaks through a high ridge on its north +side and encamped.</p> + +<p>The next day, 6th, the weather was cold, raw and cloudy, +with a high northeast wind. They set out early, down the +Tansy, whose low grounds resemble precisely, except as to +extent, those of the Missouri before it branches, containing +a great proportion of a species of cottonwood, with a leaf +like that of the wild cherry. After halting at twelve o'clock +for dinner, they ascended the plain, and at five o'clock reached +the camp through the rain, which had fallen without +intermission since noon. During his absence the party had +been occupied in dressing skins, and being able to rest themselves +were nearly freed from their lameness and swollen +feet. All this night and the whole of the following day, 7th, +it rained, the wind being from the southwest off the mountains: +yet the rivers are falling, and the thermometer 40° +above 0. The rain continued till the next day, 8th, at ten +o'clock, when it cleared off, and the weather became fine, +the wind high from the southwest. The rivers at the point +have now fallen six inches since our arrival, and this morning +the water of the south fork became of a reddish brown +colour, while the north branch continued of its usual whitish +appearance. The mountains to the south are covered +with snow.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 9th. We now consulted upon the course to be +pursued. On comparing our observations, we were more +than ever convinced of what we already suspected, that Mr. +Arrowsmith is incorrect in laying down in the chain of +Rocky mountains one remarkable mountain called the Tooth, +nearly as far south as 45°, and said to be so marked from +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_254" id="Pg_254" title="Pg_254">[254]</a></span>the discoveries of Mr. Fidler. We are now within one +hundred miles of the <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'Rokcy'.">Rocky</ins> mountains and in the latitude of +47° 24' 12" 8, and therefore it is highly improbable that the +Missouri should make such a bend to the south before it +reaches the Rocky mountains, as to have suffered Mr. Fidler +to come as low as 45° along the eastern borders without +touching that river: yet the general course of Maria's river +from this place for fifty-nine miles, as far as captain Lewis +ascended, was north 69° west, and the south branch, or what +we consider the Missouri, which captain Clarke had examined +as far as forty-five miles in a straight line, ran in a +course south 29° west, and as far as it could be seen went +considerably west of south, whence we conclude that the +Missouri itself enters the Rocky mountains to the north of +45°. In writing to the president from our winter quarters, +we had already taken the liberty of advancing the southern +extremity of Mr. Fidler's discoveries about a degree to the +northward, and this from Indian information as to the bearing +of the point at which the Missouri enters the mountain; +but we think actual observation will place it one degree +still further to the northward. This information of Mr. Fidler +however, incorrect as it is, affords an additional reason +for not pursuing Maria's river; for if he came as low +even as 47° and saw only small streams coming down from +the mountains, it is to be presumed that these rivulets do +not penetrate the Rocky mountains so far as to approach +any navigable branch of the Columbia, and they are most +probably the remote waters of some northern branch of the +Missouri. In short, being already in latitude 47° 24' we +cannot reasonably hope by going farther to the northward +to find between this place and the Saskashawan any stream +which can, as the Indians assure us the Missouri does, possess +a navigable current for some distance in the Rocky mountains: +the Indians had assured us also that the water of the +Missouri was nearly transparent at the falls; this is the case +with the southern branch; that the falls lay a little to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_255" id="Pg_255" title="Pg_255">[255]</a></span>south of sunset from them; this too is in favour of the southern +fork, for it bears considerably south of this place which +is only a few minutes to the northward of fort Mandan; +that the falls are below the Rocky mountains and near the +northern termination of one range of those mountains: now +there is a ridge of mountains which appear behind the +South mountains and terminates to the southwest of us, at +a sufficient distance from the unbroken chain of the Rocky +mountains to allow space for several falls, indeed we fear +for too many of them. If too the Indians had ever passed +any stream as large as this southern fork on their way up +the Missouri, they would have mentioned it; so that their +silence seems to prove that this branch must be the +Missouri. The body of water also which it discharges must +have been acquired from a considerable distance in the +mountains, for it could not have been collected in the +parched plains between the Yellowstone and the Rocky +mountains, since that country could not supply nourishment +for the dry channels which we passed on the south, and the +travels of Mr. Fidler forbid us to believe that it could +have been obtained from the mountains towards the northwest.</p> + +<p>These observations which satisfied our mind completely +we communicated to the party: but every one of them were +of a contrary opinion; and much of their belief depended +on Crusatte, an experienced waterman on the Missouri, who +gave it as his decided judgment that the north fork was +the genuine Missouri. The men therefore mentioned that +although they would most cheerfully follow us wherever +we should direct, yet they were afraid that the south fork +would soon terminate in the Rocky mountains and leave us +at a great distance from the Columbia. In order that +nothing might be omitted which could prevent our falling +into an error, it was agreed that one of us should ascend +the southern branch by land until we reached either the +falls or the mountains. In the meantime in order to lighten +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_256" id="Pg_256" title="Pg_256">[256]</a></span>our burdens as much as possible, we determined to deposit +here one of the periogues and all the heavy baggage which +we could possibly spare, as well as some provision, salt, powder, +and tools: this would at once lighten the other boats, +and give them the crew which had been employed on board +the periogue.</p> + +<p>Monday, 10. The weather being fair and pleasant we +dried all our baggage and merchandize and made our deposit. +These holes or <i>caches</i> as they are called by the +Missouri traders are very common, particularly among those +who deal with the Sioux, as the skins and merchandize +will keep perfectly sound for years, and are protected from +robbery: our cache is built in this manner: In the high +plain on the north side of the Missouri and forty yards +from a steep bluff, we chose a dry situation, and then describing +a small circle of about twenty inches diameter, removed +the sod as gently and carefully as possible: the +hole is then sunk perpendicularly for a foot deep, or more +if the ground be not firm. It is now worked gradually wider +as they descend, till at length it becomes six or seven feet +deep, shaped nearly like a kettle or the lower part of +a large still with the bottom somewhat sunk at the centre. +As the earth is dug it is handed up in a vessel and carefully +laid on a skin or cloth, in which it is carried away +and usually thrown into the river or concealed so as to +leave no trace of it. A floor of three or four inches in +thickness is then made of dry sticks, on which is thrown +hay or a hide perfectly dry. The goods being well aired and +dried are laid on this floor, and prevented from touching +the wall by other dried sticks in proportion as the merchandize +is stowed away: when the hole is nearly full, a skin +is laid over the goods, and on this earth is thrown and +beaten down until with the addition of the sod first removed +the whole is on a level with the ground, and there +remains not the slightest appearance of an excavation. In +addition to this we made another of smaller dimensions, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_257" id="Pg_257" title="Pg_257">[257]</a></span>in which we placed all the baggage, some powder, and our +blacksmith's tools, having previously repaired such of the +tools we carry with us as require mending. To guard +against accident, we hid two parcels of lead and powder +in the two distinct places. The red periogue was drawn up +on the middle of a small island at the entrance of Maria's +river, and secured by being fastened to the trees from the +effect of any floods. In the evening there was a high wind +from the southwest accompanied with thunder and rain. +We now made another observation of the meridian altitude +of the sun, and found that the mean latitude of the +entrance of Maria's river, as deduced from three observations, +is 47° 25' 17" 2 north. We saw a small bird like the +blue thrush or catbird which we had not before met, and +also observed that the beemartin or kingbird is common to +this country although there are no bees here, and in fact +we have not met with the honey-bee since leaving the +Osage river.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 11. This morning captain Lewis with four men +set out on their expedition up the south branch. They soon +reached the point where the Tansy river approaches the +Missouri, and observing a large herd of elk before them, +descended and killed several which they hung up along the +river so that the party in the boats might see them as they +came along. They then halted for dinner; but captain +Lewis who had been for some days afflicted with the dysentery, +was now attacked with violent pains attended by a +high fever and was unable to go on. He therefore encamped +for the night under some willow boughs: having brought +no medicine he determined to try an experiment with the +small twigs of the chokecherry, which being stripped of +their leaves and cut into pieces about two inches long were +boiled in pure water, till they produced a strong black decoction +of an astringent bitter taste; a pint of this he took at sunset, +and repeated the dose an hour afterwards. By +ten o'clock he was perfectly relieved from pain, a gentle +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_258" id="Pg_258" title="Pg_258">[258]</a></span>perspiration ensued, his fever abated and in the morning he +was quite recovered. One of the men caught several dozen +fish of two species: the first is about nine inches long, of a white +colour, round in shape; the mouth is beset both above and +below with a rim of fine sharp teeth, the eye moderately +large, the pupil dark, and the iris narrow, and of a yellowish +brown colour: in form and size it resembles the white +chub of the Potomac, though its head is proportionably +smaller; they readily bite at meat or grasshoppers; but the +flesh though soft and of a fine white colour is not highly +flavoured. The second species is precisely of the form and +about the size of the fish known by the name of the hickory +shad or old wife, though it differs from it in having +the outer edge of both the upper and lower jaw set with a +rim of teeth, and the tongue and palate also are defended +by long sharp teeth bending inwards, the eye is very large, +the iris wide and of a silvery colour; they do not inhabit +muddy water, and the flavour is much superior to that of +the former species. Of the first kind we had seen a few before +we reached Maria's river; but had found none of the +last before we caught them in the Missouri above its junction +with that river. The white cat continues as high as +Maria's river, but they are scarce in this part of the river, +nor have we caught any of them since leaving the Mandans +which weighed more than six pounds.</p> + +<p>Of other game they saw a great abundance even in their +short march of nine miles.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 12. This morning captain Lewis left the bank +of the river in order to avoid the steep ravines which generally +run from the shore to the distance of one or two miles +in the plain: having reached the opened country he went for +twelve miles in a course a little to the west of southwest, +when the sun becoming warm by nine o'clock, he returned +to the river in quest of water and to kill something for +breakfast, there being no water in the plain, and the buffaloe +discovering them before they came within gunshot took +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_259" id="Pg_259" title="Pg_259">[259]</a></span>to flight. They reached the banks in a handsome open low +ground with cottonwood, after three miles walk. Here they +saw two large brown bears, and killed them both at the +first fire, a circumstance which has never before occurred +since we have seen that animal. Having made a meal of a +part and hung the remainder on a tree with a note for captain +Clarke, they again ascended the bluffs into the open +plains. Here they saw great numbers of the burrowing +squirrel, also some wolves, antelopes, muledeer, and vast +herds of buffaloe. They soon crossed a ridge considerably +higher than the surrounding plains, and from its top had a +beautiful view of the Rocky mountains, which are now completely +covered with snow: their general course is from +southeast to the north of northwest, and they seem to consist +of several ranges which successively rise above each +other till the most distant mingles with the clouds. After +travelling twelve miles they again met the river, where +there was a handsome plain of cottonwood; and although it +was not sunset, and they had only come twenty-seven miles, +yet captain Lewis felt weak from his late disorder, and +therefore determined to go no further that night. In the +course of the day they killed a quantity of game, and saw +some signs of otter as well as beaver, and many tracks of +the brown bear: they also caught great quantities of the +white fish mentioned yesterday. With the broad-leafed +cottonwood, which has formed the principal timber of the +Missouri, is here mixed another species differing from the first +only in the narrowness of its leaf and the greater thickness +of its bark. The leaf is long, oval, acutely pointed, about +two and a half or three inches long and from three quarters +of an inch to an inch in width; it is smooth and thick sometimes +slightly grooved or channeled with the margin a little +serrate, the upper disk of a common, the lower of a whitish +green. This species seems to be preferred by the beaver to +the broad-leaved, probably because the former affords a +deeper and softer bark.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_260" id="Pg_260" title="Pg_260">[260]</a></span>Thursday 13. They left their encampment at sunrise, +and ascending the river hills went for six miles in a course +generally southwest, over a country which though more +waving than that of yesterday may still be considered level. +At the extremity of this course they overlooked a most +beautiful plain, where were infinitely more buffaloe than we +had ever before seen at a single view. To the southwest +arose from the plain two mountains of a singular appearance +and more like ramparts of high fortifications than +works of nature. They are square figures with sides rising +perpendicularly to the height of two hundred and fifty feet, +formed of yellow clay, and the tops seemed to be level plains. +Finding that the river here bore considerably to the south, +and fearful of passing the falls before reaching the Rocky +mountains, they now changed their course to the south, and +leaving those insulated hills to the right proceeded across +the plain. In this direction captain Lewis had gone about +two miles when his ears were saluted with the agreeable +sound of a fall of water, and as he advanced a spray which +seemed driven by the high southwest wind arose above the +plain like a column of smoke and vanished in an instant. +Towards this point he directed his steps, and the noise increasing +as he approached soon became too tremendous to +be mistaken for any thing but the great falls of the Missouri. +Having travelled seven miles after first hearing the +sound he reached the falls about twelve o'clock, the hills +as he approached were difficult of access and two hundred +feet high: down these he hurried with impatience and seating +himself on some rocks under the centre of the falls, +enjoyed the sublime spectacle of this stupendous object +which has since the creation had been lavishing its magnificence +upon the desert, unknown to civilization.</p> + + + +<!-- The Falls and Portage --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_263_f.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_263_t.jpg" width="393" height="700" + alt="The Falls and Portage" title="The Falls and Portage" /> + </a> +</div> + + +<p>The river immediately at its cascade is three hundred +yards wide, and is pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the +left, which rises to about one hundred feet and extends up +the stream for a mile; on the right the bluff is also perpendicular +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_261" id="Pg_261" title="Pg_261">[261]</a></span>for three hundred yards above the falls. For ninety +or a hundred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in one +smooth even sheet, over a precipice of at least eighty feet. +The remaining part of the river precipitates itself with a +more rapid current, but being received as it falls by the +irregular and somewhat projecting rocks below, forms a +splendid prospect of perfectly white foam two hundred yards +in length, and eighty in perpendicular elevation. This spray +is dissipated into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in +columns of fifteen or twenty feet, which are then oppressed +by larger masses of the white foam, on all which the sun +impresses the brightest colours of the rainbow. As it rises +from the fall it beats with fury against a ledge of rocks +which extend across the river at one hundred and fifty yards +from the precipice. From the perpendicular cliff on the +north, to the distance of one hundred and twenty yards, the +rocks rise only a few feet above the water, and when the +river is high the stream finds a channel across them forty +yards wide, and near the higher parts of the ledge which +then rise about twenty feet, and terminate abruptly within +eighty or ninety yards of the southern side. Between them +and the perpendicular cliff on the south, the whole body of +water runs with great swiftness. A few small cedars grow +near this ridge of rocks which serves as a barrier to defend a +small plain of about three acres shaded with cottonwood, at +the lower extremity of which is a grove of the same tree, +where are several Indian cabins of sticks; below the point +of them the river is divided by a large rock, several feet +above the surface of the water, and extending down the +stream for twenty yards. At the distance of three hundred +yards from the same ridge is a second abutment of solid +perpendicular rock about sixty feet high, projecting at right +angles from the small plain on the north for one hundred +and thirty-four yards into the river. After leaving this, the +Missouri again spreads itself to its usual distance of three +hundred yards, though with more than its ordinary rapidity.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_262" id="Pg_262" title="Pg_262">[262]</a></span>The hunters who had been sent out now returned loaded +with buffaloe meat, and captain Lewis encamped for the +night under a tree near the falls. The men were again despatched +to hunt for food against the arrival of the party, +and captain Lewis walked down the river to discover if +possible some place where the canoes might be safely drawn +on shore, in order to be transported beyond the falls. He +returned however without discovering any such spot, the +river for three miles below being one continued succession +of rapids and cascades, overhung with perpendicular bluffs +from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet high; in +short, it seems to have worn itself a channel through the +solid rock. In the afternoon they caught in the falls some +of both kinds of the white fish, and half a dozen trout from +sixteen to twenty-three inches long, precisely resembling in +form and the position of its fins the mountain or speckled +trout of the United States, except that the specks of the former +are of a deep black, while those of the latter are of a +red or gold colour: they have long sharp teeth on the palate +and tongue, and generally a small speck of red on each side +behind the front ventral fins; the flesh is of a pale yellowish +red, or when in good order of a rose-coloured red.</p> + +<p>Friday 14. This morning one of the men was sent to +captain Clarke with an account of the discovery of the falls, +and after employing the rest in preserving the meat which +had been killed yesterday, captain Lewis proceeded to examine +the rapids above. From the falls he directed his +course southwest up the river: after passing one continued +rapid, and three small cascades, each three or four feet high, +he reached at the distance of five miles a second fall. The +river is about four hundred yards wide, and for the distance +of three hundred throws itself over to the depth of nineteen +feet, and so irregularly that he gave it the name of the +Crooked falls. From the southern shore it extends obliquely +upwards about one hundred and fifty yards, and then +forms an acute angle downwards nearly to the commencement +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_263" id="Pg_263" title="Pg_263">[263]</a></span>of four small islands close to the northern side. From +the perpendicular pitch to these islands, a distance of more +than one hundred yards, the water glides down a sloping +rock with a velocity almost equal to that of its fall. Above +this fall the river bends suddenly to the northward: while +viewing this place captain Lewis heard a loud roar above +him, and crossing the point of a hill for a few hundred +yards, he saw one of the most beautiful objects in nature: +the whole Missouri is suddenly stopped by one shelving rock, +which without a single niche and with an edge as straight and +regular as if formed by art, stretches itself from one side of +the river to the other for at least a quarter of a mile. +Over this it precipitates itself in an even uninterrupted +sheet to the perpendicular depth of fifty feet, whence dashing +against the rocky bottom it rushes rapidly down, leaving +behind it a spray of the purest foam across the river. +The scene which it presented was indeed singularly beautiful, +since without any of the wild irregular sublimity of +the lower falls, it combined all the regular elegances which +the fancy of a painter would select to form a beautiful +waterfall. The eye had scarcely been regaled with this +charming prospect, when at the distance of half a mile +captain Lewis observed another of a similar kind: to this +he immediately hastened, and found a cascade stretching +across the whole river for a quarter of a mile with a descent +of fourteen feet, though the perpendicular pitch was +only six feet. This too in any other neighborhood would +have been an object of great magnificence, but after what +he had just seen it became of secondary interest; his curiosity +being however awakened, he determined to go on even +should night overtake him to the head of the falls. He +therefore pursued the southwest course of the river, which +was one constant succession of rapids and small cascades, at +every one of which the bluffs grew lower, or the bed of the +river became more on a level with the plains. At the distance +of two and a half miles he arrived at another cataract +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_264" id="Pg_264" title="Pg_264">[264]</a></span>of twenty-six feet. The river is here six hundred yards +wide, but the descent is not immediately perpendicular, +though the river falls generally with a regular and smooth +sheet; for about one third of the descent a rock protrudes +to a small distance, receives the water in its passage and +gives it a curve. On the south side is a beautiful plain a few +feet above the level of the falls; on the north the country is +more broken, and there is a hill not far from the river. +Just below the falls is a little island in the middle of the +river well covered with timber. Here on a cottonwood tree +an eagle had fixed its nest, and seemed the undisputed mistress +of a spot, to contest whose dominion neither man nor +beast would venture across the gulfs that surround it, and +which is further secured by the mist rising from the falls. +This solitary bird could not escape the observation of the +Indians who made the eagle's nest a part of their description +of the falls, which now proves to be correct in almost +every particular, except that they did not do justice to their +height. Just above this is a cascade of about five feet, beyond +which, as far as could be discerned, the velocity of the +water seemed to abate. Captain Lewis now ascended the +hill which was behind him, and saw from its top a delightful +plain extending from the river to the base of the Snow +mountains to the south and southwest. Along this wide +level country the Missouri pursued its winding course, filled +with water to its even and grassy banks, while about four +miles above it was joined by a large river flowing from the +northwest through a valley three miles in width, and distinguished +by the timber which adorned its shores; the Missouri +itself stretches to the south in one unruffled stream of +water as if unconscious of the roughness it must soon encounter, +and bearing on its bosom vast flocks of geese, +while numerous herds of buffaloe are feeding on the plains +which surround it.</p> + +<p>Captain Lewis then descended the hill, and directed his +course towards the river falling in from the west. He soon +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_265" id="Pg_265" title="Pg_265">[265]</a></span>met a herd of at least a thousand buffaloe, and being desirous +of providing for supper shot one of them; the animal +began to bleed, and captain Lewis who had forgotten +to reload his rifle, was intently watching to see him +fall, when he beheld a large brown bear who was stealing on +him unperceived, and was already within twenty steps. In +the first moment of surprise he lifted his rifle, but remembering +instantly that it was not charged, and that he had +not time to reload, he felt that there was no safety but in +flight. It was in the open level plain, not a bush nor a tree +within three hundred yards, the bank of the river sloping +and not more than three feet high, so that there was no +possible mode of concealment: captain Lewis therefore +thought of retreating in a quick walk as fast as the bear +advanced towards the nearest tree; but as soon as he turned +the bear ran open mouth and at full speed upon him. Captain +Lewis ran about eighty yards, but finding that the animal +gained on him fast, it flashed on his mind that by getting +into the water to such a depth that the bear would be +obliged to attack him swimming, there was still some chance +of his life, he therefore turned short, plunged into the river +about waist deep, and facing about presented the point of +his espontoon. The bear arrived at the water's edge within +twenty feet of him, but as soon as he put himself in this position +of defence, he seemed frightened, and wheeling about, +retreated with as much precipitation as he had pursued. +Very glad to be released from this danger, captain Lewis +returned to the shore, and observed him run with great +speed, sometimes looking back as if he expected to be pursued, +till he reached the woods. He could not conceive the +cause of the sudden alarm of the bear, but congratulated +himself on his escape when he saw his own track torn to +pieces by the furious animal, and learnt from the whole adventure +never to suffer his rifle to be a moment unloaded. +He now resumed his progress in the direction which the bear +had taken towards the western river, and found it a handsome +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_266" id="Pg_266" title="Pg_266">[266]</a></span>stream about two hundred yards wide, apparently deep, +with a gentle current; its waters clear, and its banks, which +were formed principally of dark brown and blue clay, are +about the same height as those of the Missouri, that is from +three to five feet. What was singular was that the river does +not seem to overflow its banks at any season, while it might +be presumed from its vicinity to the mountains, that the torrents +arising from the melting of the snows, would sometimes +cause it to swell beyond its limits. The contrary fact +would induce a belief that the Rocky mountains yield their +snows very reluctantly and equably to the sun, and are not +often drenched by very heavy rains. This river is no doubt +that which the Indians call Medicine river, which they mentioned +as emptying into the Missouri, just above the falls. +After examining Medicine river, captain Lewis set out at +half after six o'clock in the evening on his return towards +the camp, which he estimated at the distance of twelve miles. +In going through the low grounds on Medicine river he met +an animal which at a distance he thought was a wolf, but on +coming within sixty paces, it proved to be some brownish +yellow animal standing near its burrow, which, when he came +nigh, crouched and seemed as if about to spring on him. +Captain Lewis fired and the beast disappeared in its burrow. +From the track and the general appearance of the animal +he supposed it to be of the tiger kind. He then went on, +but as if the beasts of the forests had conspired against +him, three buffaloe bulls which were feeding with a large +herd at the distance of half a mile, left their companions +and ran at full speed towards him. He turned round, and +unwilling to give up the field advanced towards them: when +they came within a hundred yards, they stopped, looked at +him for some time, and then retreated as they came. He now +pursued his route in the dark, reflecting on the strange adventures +and sights of the day which crowded on his mind so rapidly +that he should have been inclined to believe it all enchantment +if the thorns of the prickly pear piercing his feet did not +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_267" id="Pg_267" title="Pg_267">[267]</a></span>dispel at every moment the illusion. He at last reached the +party, who had been very anxious for his safety, and who +had already decided on the route which each should take in +the morning to look for him. Being much fatigued he supped +and slept well during the night.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 15. The men were again sent out to bring in +the game killed yesterday and to procure more: they also obtained +a number of fine trout and several small catfish +weighing about four pounds, and differing from the white +catfish lower down the Missouri. On awaking this morning +captain Lewis found a large rattlesnake coiled on the trunk +of a tree under which he had been sleeping. He killed it, +and found it like those we had seen before, differing from +those of the Atlantic states, not in its colours but in the form +and arrangement of them; it had one hundred and seventy-six +scuta on the abdomen, and seventeen half-formed scuta +on the tail. There is a heavy dew on the grass about the +camp every morning, which no doubt proceeds from the +mist of the falls, as it takes place no where in the plains nor +on the river except here. The messenger sent to captain +Clarke returned with information of his having arrived five +miles below at a rapid, which he did not think it prudent to +ascend and would wait till captain Lewis and his party rejoined +him.</p> + +<p>On Tuesday 11th, the day when captain Lewis left us, +we remained at the entrance of Maria's river and completed +the deposits of all the articles with which we could dispense. +The morning had been fair with a high wind from the southwest, +which shifted in the evening to northwest, when the +weather became cold and the wind high. The next morning,</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 12, we left our encampment with a fair day +and a southwest wind. The river was now so crowded with +islands that within the distance of ten miles and a half we +passed eleven of different dimensions before reaching a high +black bluff in a bend on the left, where we saw a great number +of swallows. Within one mile and a half farther we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_268" id="Pg_268" title="Pg_268">[268]</a></span>passed four small islands, two on each side, and at fifteen +miles from our encampment reached a spring which the +men called Grog spring: it is on the northern shore, and at +the point where Tansy river approaches within one hundred +yards of the Missouri. From this place we proceeded +three miles to a low bluff on the north opposite to an island, +and spent the night in an old Indian encampment. The bluffs +under which we passed were composed of a blackish clay +and coal for about eighty feet, above which for thirty or +forty feet is a brownish yellow earth. The river is very +rapid and obstructed by bars of gravel and stone of different +shapes and sizes, so that three of our canoes were in great +danger in the course of the day. We had a few drops of rain +about two o'clock in the afternoon. The only animals we +killed were elk and deer; but we saw great numbers of +rattlesnakes.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 13. The morning was fair and there was +some dew on the ground. After passing two islands we +reached at the distance of a mile and a half a small rapid +stream fifty yards wide, emptying itself on the south, rising +in a mountain to the southeast about twelve or fifteen miles +distant, and at this time covered with snow. As it is the channel +for the melted snow of that mountain we called it Snow +river: opposite to its entrance is another island: at one mile +and three quarters is a black bluff of slate on the south; +nine miles beyond which, after passing ten islands, we came +to on the southern shore near an old Indian fortified camp, +opposite the lower point of an island, having made thirteen +miles. The number of islands and shoals, the rapidity of +the river, and the quantity of large stones, rendered the +navigation very disagreeable: along the banks we distinguished +several low bluffs or cliffs of slate. There were +great numbers of geese and goslings; the geese not being +able to fly at this season. Gooseberries are ripe and in great +abundance; the yellow currant is also common, but not yet +ripe. Our game consisted of buffaloe and goats.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_269" id="Pg_269" title="Pg_269">[269]</a></span>Friday, 14. Again the day is fine. We made two miles +to a small island in the southern bend, after passing several +bad rapids. The current becomes indeed swifter as we +ascend and the canoes frequently receive water as we drag +them with difficulty along. At the distance of six miles we +reached captain Clarke's camp on the fourth, which is on +the north side and opposite to a large gravelly bar. Here +the man sent by captain Lewis joined us with the pleasing +intelligence that he had discovered the falls, and was convinced +that the course we were pursuing was that of the +true Missouri. At a mile and a half we reached the upper +point of an island, three quarters of a mile beyond which +we encamped on the south, after making only ten and a quarter +miles. Along the river was but little timber, but much +hard slate in the bluffs.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 15. The morning being warm and fair we +set out at the usual hour, but proceeded with great difficulty +in consequence of the increased rapidity of the current. +The channel is constantly obstructed by rocks and +dangerous rapids. During the whole progress the men are in +the water hauling the canoes, and walking on sharp rocks and +round stones which cut their feet or cause them to fall. +The rattlesnakes too are so numerous that the men are +constantly on their guard against being bitten by them; yet +they bear the fatigues with the most undiminished cheerfulness. +We hear the roar of the falls very distinctly this +morning. At three and three quarter miles we came to a +rock in a bend to the south, resembling a tower. At six +and three quarter miles we reached a large creek on the +south, which after one of our men we called Shield's creek. +It is rapid in its course, about thirty yards wide, and on +sending a person five miles up it proved to have a fall of +fifteen feet, and some timber on its low ground. Above this +river the bluffs of the Missouri are of red earth mixed with +stratas of black stone; below it we passed some white clay +in the banks which mixes with water in every respect like +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_270" id="Pg_270" title="Pg_270">[270]</a></span>flour. At three and three quarter miles we reached a point +on the north opposite an island and a bluff; and one mile and +a quarter further, after passing some red bluffs, came to on +the north side, having made twelve miles. Here we found +a rapid so difficult that we did not think proper to attempt +the passage this evening, and therefore sent to captain +Lewis to apprise him of our arrival. We saw a number +of geese, ducks, crows, and blackbirds to-day, the two +former with their young. The river rose a little this evening, +but the timber is still so scarce that we could not procure +enough for our use during the night.</p> + +<p>Sunday, June 16. Some rain fell last night, and this +morning the weather was cloudy and the wind high from the +southwest. We passed the rapid by doubly manning the +periogue and canoes, and halted at the distance of a mile +and a quarter to examine the rapids above, which we found +to be a continued succession of cascades as far as the view +extended, which was about two miles. About a mile above +where we halted was a large creek falling in on the south, +opposite to which is a large sulphur spring falling over the +rocks on the north: captain Lewis arrived at two from the +falls about five miles above us, and after consulting upon +the subject of the portage, we crossed the river and formed +a camp on the north, having come three quarters of a mile +to-day. From our own observation we had deemed the south +side to be the most favourable for a portage, but two men +sent out for the purpose of examining it, reported that the +creek and the ravines intersected the plain so deeply that it +was impossible to cross it. Captain Clarke therefore resolved +to examine more minutely what was the best route: +the four canoes were unloaded at the camp and then sent +across the river, where by means of strong cords they were +hauled over the first rapid, whence they may be easily drawn +into the creek. Finding too, that the portage would be at +all events too long to enable us to carry the boats on our +shoulders, six men were set to work to make wheels for carriages +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_271" id="Pg_271" title="Pg_271">[271]</a></span>to transport them. Since leaving Maria's river the +wife of Chaboneau, our interpreter, has been dangerously +ill, but she now found great relief from the mineral water of +the sulphur spring. It is situated about two hundred yards +from the Missouri, into which it empties over a precipice +of rock about twenty-five feet high. The water is perfectly +transparent, strongly impregnated with sulphur, and +we suspect iron also, as the colour of the hills and bluffs +in the neighbourhood indicates the presence of that metal. +In short the water to all appearance is precisely similar to +that of Bowyer's sulphur spring in Virginia.</p> + +<p>Monday 17. Captain Clarke set out with five men to explore +the country; the rest were employed in hunting, making +wheels and in drawing the five canoes and all the +baggage up the creek, which we now called Portage creek: +from this creek there is a gradual ascent to the top of the +high plain, while the bluffs of the creek lower down and of +the Missouri, both above and below its entrance, were so +steep as to have rendered it almost impracticable to drag +them up from the Missouri. We found great difficulty and +some danger in even ascending the creek thus far, in consequence +of the rapids and rocks of the channel of the creek, +which just above where we brought the canoes has a fall +of five feet, and high and sleep bluffs beyond it: we were +very fortunate in finding just below Portage creek a cottonwood +tree about twenty-two inches in diameter, and +large enough to make the carriage wheels; it was perhaps +the only one of the same size within twenty miles; and the +cottonwood, which we are obliged to employ in the other +parts of the work, is extremely soft and brittle. The mast +of the white periogue which we mean to leave behind, supplied +us with two axletrees. There are vast quantities of +buffaloe feeding in the plains or watering in the river, which +is also strewed with the floating carcases and limbs of these +animals. They go in large herds to water about the falls, +and as all the passages to the river near that place are narrow +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_272" id="Pg_272" title="Pg_272">[272]</a></span>and steep, the foremost are pressed into the river by +the impatience of those behind. In this way we have seen +ten or a dozen disappear over the falls in a few minutes. +They afford excellent food for the wolves, bears, and birds +of prey; and this circumstance may account for the reluctance +of the bears to yield their dominion over the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 18. The periogue was drawn up a little below +our camp and secured in a thick copse of willow bushes. +We now began to form a cache or place of deposit and to dry +our goods and other articles which required inspection. The +wagons too are completed. Our hunters brought us ten +deer, and we shot two out of a herd of buffaloe that came +to water at the sulphur spring. There is a species of gooseberry +growing abundantly among the rocks on the sides of +the cliffs: it is now ripe, of a pale red colour, about +the size of the common gooseberry, and like it is an ovate +pericarp of soft pulp enveloping a number of small whitish +coloured seeds, and consisting of a yellowish slimy mucilaginous +substance, with a sweet taste; the surface of the berry +is covered with a glutinous adhesive matter, and its fruit +though ripe retains its withered corolla. The shrub itself +seldom rises more than two feet high, is much branched, +and has no thorns. The leaves resemble those of the common +gooseberry except in being smaller, and the berry is +supported by separate peduncles or footstalks half an inch +long. There are also immense quantities of grasshoppers +of a brown colour in the plains, and they no doubt contribute +to the lowness of the grass, which is not generally more +than three inches high, though it is soft, narrow-leafed and +affords a fine pasture for the buffaloe.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 19. The wind blew violently to-day, as it did +yesterday, and as it does frequently in this open country, +where there is not a tree to break or oppose its force. Some +men were sent for the meat killed yesterday which fortunately +had not been discovered by the wolves. Another party went +to Medicine river in quest of elk, which we hope may be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_273" id="Pg_273" title="Pg_273">[273]</a></span>induced to resort there, from there being more wood in that +neighborhood than on the Missouri. All the rest were occupied +in packing the baggage and mending their moccasins, +in order to prepare for the portage. We caught a number +of the white fish, but no catfish or trout. Our poor Indian +woman, who had recovered so far as to walk out, imprudently +ate a quantity of the white apple, which with some +dried fish occasioned a return of her fever.</p> + +<p>The meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb, as observed +with octant by back observation, was 53° 15', giving as the +latitude of our camp, 47° 8' 59" 5"'.</p> + +<p>Thursday 20. As we were desirous of getting meat enough +to last us during the portage, so that the men might not be diverted +from their labour to look for food, we sent out four hunters +to-day: they killed eleven buffaloe. This was indeed an +easy labour, for there are vast herds coming constantly to the +opposite bank of the river to water; they seem also to make +much use of the mineral water of the sulphur spring, but +whether from choice, or because it is more convenient than +the river, we cannot determine, as they sometimes pass near +the spring and go on to the river. Besides this spring, +brackish water or that of a dark colour impregnated with +mineral salts, such as we have frequently met on the Missouri, +may be found in small quantities in some of the steep +ravines on the north side of the river opposite to us and at +the falls.</p> + +<p>Captain Clarke returned this evening, having examined +the whole course of the river and fixed the route most practicable +for the portage. The first day, 17th, he was occupied +in measuring the heights and distances along the banks +of the river, and slept near a ravine at the foot of the crooked +falls, having very narrowly escaped falling into the river, +where he would have perished inevitably, in descending the +cliffs near the grand cataract. The next day, 18th, he continued +the same occupation and arrived in the afternoon +at the junction of Medicine and Missouri rivers: up the latter +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_274" id="Pg_274" title="Pg_274">[274]</a></span>he ascended, and passed at the distance of a mile an +island and a little timber in an eastwardly bend of the river. +One mile beyond this he came to the lower point of a large +island; another small island in the middle of the river, and +one near the left shore at the distance of three miles, opposite +to the head of which he encamped near the mouth of a +creek which appeared to rise in the South mountain. These +three islands are opposite to each other, and we gave them +the name of the Whitebear islands from observing some of +those animals on them. He killed a beaver, an elk and eight +buffaloe. One of the men who was sent a short distance +from the camp to bring home some meat, was attacked by a +white bear, and closely pursued within forty paces of the +camp, and narrowly escaped being caught. Captain Clarke +immediately went with three men in quest of the bear, which +he was afraid might surprise another of the hunters who +was out collecting the game. The bear was however too +quick, for before captain Clarke could reach the man, the +bear had attacked him and compelled him to take refuge in +the water. He now ran off as they approached, and it being +late they deferred pursuing him till the next morning.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_275" id="Pg_275" title="Pg_275">[275]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Description and romantic appearance of the Missouri at the junction of the +Medicine river—the difficulty of transporting the baggage at the falls—the +party employed in the construction of a boat of skins—the embarrassments +they had to encounter for want of proper materials—during the work the +party much troubled by white bears—violent hail-storm, and providential +escape of captain Clarke and his party—description of a remarkable fountain—singular +explosion heard from the Black mountains—the boat found to +be insufficient, and the serious disappointment of the party—captain Clarke +undertakes to repair the damage by building canoes, and accomplishes the +task.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>On the 19th, captain Clarke not being able to find the +bear mentioned in the last chapter, spent the day in +examining the country both above and below the Whitebear +islands, and concluded that the place of his encampment +would be the best point for the extremity of the portage. +The men were therefore occupied in drying the meat to be +left here. Immense numbers of buffaloe are every where +round, and they saw a summer duck which is now sitting. +The next morning, 20th, he crossed the level plain, fixed +stakes to mark the route of the portage, till he passed a +large ravine which would oblige us to make the portage +farther from the river: after this there being no other obstacle +he went to the river where he had first struck it, and +took its courses and distances down to the camp. From the +draught and survey of captain Clarke, we had now a clear +and connected view of the falls, cascades, and rapids of the +Missouri.</p> + +<p>This river is three hundred yards wide at the point +where it receives the waters of Medicine river, which is +one hundred and thirty-seven yards in width. The united +current continues three hundred and twenty-eight poles to a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_276" id="Pg_276" title="Pg_276">[276]</a></span>small rapid on the north side, from which it gradually +widens to one thousand four hundred yards, and at the distance +of five hundred and forty-eight poles reaches the head +of the rapids, narrowing as it approaches them. Here the +hills on the north which had withdrawn from the bank +closely border the river, which, for the space of three hundred +and twenty poles, makes its way over the rocks with +a descent of thirty feet: in this course the current is contracted +to five hundred and eighty yards, and after throwing +itself over a small pitch of five feet, forms a beautiful +cascade of twenty-six feet five inches; this does not however +fall immediately perpendicular, being stopped by a part of +the rock which projects at about one third of the distance. +After descending this fall, and passing the cottonwood +island on which the eagle has fixed its nest, the river goes +on for five hundred and thirty-two poles over rapids and little +falls, the estimated descent of which is thirteen feet six +inches till it is joined by a large fountain boiling up underneath +the rocks near the edge of the river, into which it +falls with a cascade of eight feet. It is of the most perfect +clearness and rather of a bluish cast; and even after falling +into the Missouri it preserves its colour for half a mile. +From this fountain the river descends with increased rapidity +for the distance of two hundred and fourteen poles, during +which the estimated descent is five feet from this for +a distance of one hundred and thirty-five poles, the river +descends fourteen feet seven inches including a perpendicular +fall of six feet seven inches. The river has now become +pressed into a space of four hundred and seventy-three +yards, and here forms a grand cataract by falling over a +plain rock the whole distance across the river to the depth +of forty-seven feet eight inches: after recovering itself the +Missouri then proceeds with an estimated descent of three +feet, till at the distance of one hundred and two poles it +again is precipitated down the Crooked falls of nineteen +feet perpendicular; below this at the mouth of a deep ravine +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_277" id="Pg_277" title="Pg_277">[277]</a></span>is a fall of five feet, after which for the distance of +nine hundred and seventy poles the descent is much more +gradual, not being more than ten feet, and then succeeds a +handsome level plain for the space of one hundred and +seventy-eight poles with a computed descent of three feet, +making a bend towards the north. Thence it descends +during four hundred and eight poles, about eighteen feet +and a half, when it makes a perpendicular fall of two feet, +which is ninety poles beyond the great cataract, in approaching +which it descends thirteen feet within two hundred +yards, and gathering strength from its confined channel, +which is only two hundred and eighty yards wide, +rushes over the fall to the depth of eighty-seven feet and +three quarters of an inch. After raging among the rocks +and losing itself in foam, it is compressed immediately into a +bed of ninety-three yards in width: it continues for three +hundred and forty poles to the entrance of a run or deep ravine +where there is a fall of three feet, which, joined to the +decline of the river during that course, makes the descent +six feet. As it goes on the descent within the next two hundred +and forty poles is only four feet: from this passing a run +or deep ravine the descent for four hundred poles is thirteen +feet; within two hundred and forty poles a second descent +of eighteen feet; thence one hundred and sixty poles +a descent of six feet; after which to the mouth of Portage +creek, a distance of two hundred and eighty poles, the descent +is ten feet. From this survey and estimate it results +that the river experiences a descent of three hundred and +fifty-two feet in the course of two and three quarter miles, +from the commencement of the rapids to the mouth of +Portage creek, exclusive of the almost impassable rapids +which extend for a mile below its entrance.</p> + +<p>The latitude of our camp below the entrance of Portage +creek, was found to be 47° 7' 10" 3, as deduced from +a meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb taken with octant +by back observation giving 53° 10'.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_278" id="Pg_278" title="Pg_278">[278]</a></span>Friday, June 21. Having made the necessary preparations +for continuing our route, a part of the baggage was +carried across the creek into the high plain, three miles +in advance and placed on one of the carriages with truck +wheels: the rest of the party was employed in drying meat +and dressing elk skins. We killed several muledeer and an +elk, and observed as usual vast quantities of buffaloe who +came to drink at the river. For the first time on the Missouri +we have seen near the falls a species of fishing duck, +the body of which is brown and white, the wings white, +and the head and upper part of the neck of a brick red, +with a narrow beak, which seems to be of the same kind +common in the Susquehanna, Potomac and James' river. +The little wood which this neighbourhood affords consists +of the broad and narrow-leafed cottonwood, the box alder, +the narrow and broad-leafed willow, the large or sweet +willow, which was not common below Maria's river, but +which here attains the same size and has the same appearance +as in the Atlantic states. The undergrowth consists +of roses, gooseberries, currants, small honeysuckles, and +the redwood, the inner part of which the <i>engages</i> or watermen +are fond of smoking when mixed with tobacco.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 22. We now set out to pass the portage and +halted for dinner at eight miles distance near a little stream. +The axletrees of our carriage, which had been made of an +old mast, and the cottonwood tongues broke before we came +there: but we renewed them with the timber of the sweet willow, +which lasted till within half a mile of our intended +camp, when the tongues gave way and we were obliged to +take as much baggage as we could carry on our backs down +to the river, where we formed an encampment in a small +grove of timber opposite to the Whitebear islands. Here +the banks on both sides of the river are handsome, level, +and extensive; that near our camp is not more than two feet +above the surface of the water. The river is about eight +hundred yards wide just above these islands, ten feet deep +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_279" id="Pg_279" title="Pg_279">[279]</a></span>in most places, and with a very gentle current. The plains +however on this part of the river are not so fertile as those +from the mouth of the Muscleshell and thence downwards; +there is much more stone on the sides of the hills and on the +broken lands than is to be found lower down. We saw in +the plains vast quantities of buffaloe, a number of small +birds, and the large brown curlew, which is now sitting, and +lays its eggs, which are of a pale blue with black-specks, +on the ground without any nest. There is also a species of +lark much resembling the bird called the oldfield lark, with a +yellow breast and a black spot on the croup; though it differs +from the latter in having its tail formed of feathers of +an unequal length and pointed; the beak too is somewhat +longer and more curved, and the note differs considerably. +The prickly pear annoyed us very much to-day by sticking +through our moccasins. As soon as we had kindled our fires +we examined the meat which captain Clarke had left here, +but found that the greater part of it had been taken by the +wolves.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 23. After we had brought up the canoe and +baggage captain Clarke went down to the camp at Portage +creek, where four of the men had been left with the Indian +woman. Captain Lewis during the morning prepared the +camp, and in the afternoon went down in a canoe to Medicine +river to look after the three men who had been sent +thither to hunt on the 19th, and from whom nothing had as +yet been heard. He went up the river about half a mile +and then walked along on the right bank, hallooing as he +went, till at the distance of five miles he found one of them +who had fixed his camp on the opposite bank, where he had +killed seven deer and dried about six hundred pounds of +buffaloe meat, but had killed no elk, the animal chiefly wanted. +He knew nothing of his companions except that on the +day of their departure from camp he had left them at the +falls and come on to Medicine river, not having seen them +since. As it was too late to return captain Lewis passed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_280" id="Pg_280" title="Pg_280">[280]</a></span>over on a raft which he made for the purpose and spent the +night at Shannon's camp, and the next morning,</p> + +<p>Monday, 24, sent J. Fields up the river with orders to +go four miles and return, whether he found the two absent +hunters or not; then descending the southwest side of Medicine +river, he crossed the Missouri in the canoe, and sent +Shannon back to his camp to join Fields and bring the meat +which they had killed: this they did, and arrived in the +evening at the camp on Whitebear islands. A part of the +men from Portage creek also arrived with two canoes and +baggage. On going down yesterday captain Clarke cut off +several angles of the former route so as to shorten the Portage +considerably, and marked it with stakes: he arrived +there in time to have two of the canoes carried up in the +high plain about a mile in advance. Here they all repaired +their moccasins, and put on double soals to protect them +from the prickly pear and from the sharp points of earth +which have been formed by the trampling of the buffaloe +during the late rains: this of itself is sufficient to render the +portage disagreeable to one who had no burden; but as the +men are loaded as heavily as their strength will permit, the +crossing is really painful: some are limping with the soreness +of their feet, others are scarcely able to stand for more +than a few minutes from the heat and fatigue: they are +all obliged to halt and rest frequently, and at almost every +stopping place they fall and many of them are asleep in an +instant; yet no one complains and they go on with great +cheerfulness. At their camp Drewyer and Fields joined +them, and while captain Lewis was looking for them at +Medicine river, they returned to report the absence of +Shannon about whom they had been very uneasy. They +had killed several buffaloe at the bend of the Missouri +above the falls: and dried about eight hundred pounds of meat +and got one hundred pounds of tallow: they had also killed +some deer, but had seen no elk. After getting the party in +motion with the canoes captain Clarke returned to his camp +at Portage creek.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_281" id="Pg_281" title="Pg_281">[281]</a></span>We were now occupied in fitting up a boat of skins, the +frame of which had been prepared for the purpose at Harper's +ferry. It was made of iron, thirty-six feet long, four +feet and a half in the beam, and twenty-six inches wide in +the bottom. Two men had been sent this morning for timber +to complete it, but they could find scarcely any even +tolerably straight sticks four and a half feet long, and as the +cottonwood is too soft and brittle we were obliged to use +the willow and box-alder.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 25. The party returned to the lower camp. +Two men were sent on the large island to look for timber. +J. Fields was sent up the Missouri to hunt elk; but he returned +about noon and informed us that a few miles above +he saw two white bear near the river, and in attempting to +fire at them came suddenly on a third, who being only a few +steps off immediately attacked him; that in running to +escape from the monster he leaped down a steep bank of +the river, where falling on a bar of stone he cut his hand and +knee and bent his gun; but fortunately for him the bank +concealed him from his antagonist or he would have been +most probably lost. The other two returned with a small +quantity of bark and timber, which was all they could find +on the island; but they had killed two elk: these were valuable, +as we are desirous of procuring the skins of that animal +in order to cover the boat, as they are more strong and +durable than those of the buffaloe, and do not shrink so +much in drying. The party that went to the lower camp +had one canoe and the baggage carried into the high plain +to be ready in the morning, and then all who could make +use of their feet had a dance on the green to the music of a +violin. We have been unsuccessful in our attempt to catch +fish, nor does there seem to be any in this part of the river. +We observe a number of water terrapins. There are +quantities of young blackbirds in these islands just +beginning to fly. Among the vegetable productions we observe +a species of wild rye which is now heading: it rises +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_282" id="Pg_282" title="Pg_282">[282]</a></span>to the height of eighteen or twenty inches, the beard remarkably +fine and soft; the culen is jointed, and in every +respect except in height it resembles the wild rye. Great +quantities of mint too, like the peppermint, are found here.</p> + +<p>The winds are sometimes violent in these plains. The +men inform us that as they were bringing one of the canoes +along on truck-wheels, they hoisted the sail and the wind +carried her along for some distance.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 26. Two men were sent on the opposite side +of the river for bark and timber, of which they procured +some, but by no means enough for our purposes. The bark +of the cottonwood is too soft, and our only dependence is on +the sweet willow, which has a tough strong bark; the two +hunters killed seven buffaloe. A party arrived from below +with two canoes and baggage, and the wind being from the +southeast, they had made considerable progress with the +sails. On their arrival one of the men who had been considerably +heated and fatigued, swallowed a very hearty +draught of water, and was immediately taken ill; captain +Lewis bled him with a penknife, having no other instrument +at hand, and succeeded in restoring him to health the next +day. Captain Clarke formed a second cache or deposit near +the camp, and placed the swivel under the rocks near the +river. The antelopes are still scattered through the plains; +the females with their young, which are generally two in +number, and the males by themselves.</p> + +<p>Thursday 27. The party were employed in preparing +timber for the boat, except two who were sent to hunt. +About one in the afternoon a cloud arose from the southwest +and brought with it violent thunder, lightning, and +hail: soon after it passed the hunters came in from about +four miles above us. They had killed nine elk, and three +bear. As they were hunting on the river they saw a low +ground covered with thick brushwood, where from the tracks +along shore they thought a bear had probably taken refuge: +they therefore landed, without making a noise, and climbed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_283" id="Pg_283" title="Pg_283">[283]</a></span>a tree about twenty feet above the ground. Having fixed +themselves securely, they raised a loud shout, and a bear instantly +rushed towards them. These animals never climb, +and therefore when he came to the tree and stopped to look +at them, Drewyer shot him in the head; he proved to be the +largest we have yet seen, his nose appeared to be like that +of a common ox, his fore feet measured nine inches across, +and the hind feet were seven inches wide, and eleven and +three quarters long, exclusive of the talons. One of these +animals came within thirty yards of the camp last night, and +carried off some buffaloe meat which we had placed on a +pole. In the evening after the storm the water on this side +of the river became of a deep crimson colour, probably +caused by some stream above washing down a kind of soft +red stone, which we observed in the neighbouring bluffs and +gullies. At the camp below, the men who left us in the +morning were busy in preparing their load for to-morrow, +which were impeded by the rain, hail, and the hard wind +from the northwest.</p> + +<p>Friday 28. The party all occupied in making the boat; +they obtained a sufficient quantity of willow bark to line her, +and over these were placed the elk skins, and when they +failed we were obliged to use the buffaloe hide. The white +bear have now become exceedingly troublesome; they constantly +infest our camp during the night, and though they +have not attacked us, as our dog who patroles all night gives +us notice of their approach, yet we are obliged to sleep with +our arms by our sides for fear of accident, and we cannot +send one man alone to any distance, particularly if he has +to pass through brushwood. We saw two of them to-day +on the large island opposite to us, but as we are all so much +occupied now, we mean to reserve ourselves for some leisure +moment, and then make a party to drive them from the +islands. The river has risen nine inches since our arrival +here.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_284" id="Pg_284" title="Pg_284">[284]</a></span>At Portage creek captain Clarke completed the cache, +in which we deposited whatever we could spare from our +baggage; some ammunition, provisions, books, the specimens +of plants and minerals, and a draught of the river from its +entrance to fort Mandan. After closing it he broke up the +encampment, and took on all the remaining baggage to the +high plain, about three miles. Portage creek has risen +considerably in consequence of the rain, and the water had +become of a deep crimson colour, and ill tasted; on overtaking +the canoe he found that there was more baggage than +could be carried on the two carriages, and therefore left +some of the heavy articles which could not be injured, and +proceeded on to Willowrun where he encamped for the night. +Here they made a supper on two buffaloe which they killed +on the way; but passed the night in the rain, with a high +wind from the southwest. In the morning,</p> + +<p>Saturday 29, finding it impossible to reach the end of +the portage with their present load, in consequence of +the state of the road after the rain, he sent back nearly +all his party to bring on the articles which had been +left yesterday. Having lost some notes and remarks +which he had made on first ascending the river, he determined +to go up to the Whitebear islands along its banks, in +order to supply the deficiency. He there left one man to +guard the baggage, and went on to the falls accompanied +by his servant York, Chaboneau and his wife with her +young child. On his arrival there he observed a very dark +cloud rising in the west which threatened rain, and looked +around for some shelter, but could find no place where they +would be secure from being blown into the river if the wind +should prove as violent as it sometimes does in the plains. +At length about a quarter of a mile above the falls he found +a deep ravine where there were some shelving rocks, under +which he took refuge. They were on the upper side of the +ravine near the river, perfectly safe from the rain, and therefore +laid down their guns, compass, and other articles which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_285" id="Pg_285" title="Pg_285">[285]</a></span>they carried with them. The shower was at first moderate, +it then increased to a heavy rain, the effects of which they +did not feel: soon after a torrent of rain and hail descended; +the rain seemed to fall in a solid mass, and instantly collecting +in the ravine came rolling down in a dreadful current, +carrying the mud and rocks, and every thing that opposed +it. Captain Clarke fortunately saw it a moment before it +reached them, and springing up with his gun and shotpouch +in his left hand, with his right clambered up the steep +bluff, pushing on the Indian woman with her child in her +arms; her husband too had seized her hand and was pulling +her up the hill, but he was so terrified at the danger that +but for captain Clark, himself and his wife and child +would have been lost. So instantaneous was the rise of the +water, that before captain Clark had reached his gun and +began to ascend the bank, the water was up to his waist, and +he could scarce get up faster than it rose, till it reached the +height of fifteen feet with a furious current, which had they +waited a moment longer would have swept them into the +river just above the great falls, down which they must inevitable +have been precipitated. They reached the plain in +safety, and found York who had separated from them just +before the storm to hunt some buffaloe, and was now returning +to find his master. They had been obliged to escape +so rapidly that captain Clarke lost his compass and umbrella. +Chaboneau left his gun, shotpouch, and tomahawk, and +the Indian woman had just time to grasp her child, before +the net in which it lay at her feet was carried down the +current. He now relinquished his intention of going up the +river and returned to the camp at Willowrun. Here he found +that the party sent this morning for the baggage, had all returned +to camp in great confusion, leaving their loads in the +plain. On account of the heat they generally go nearly naked, +and with no covering on their heads. The hail was so large +and driven so furiously against them by the high wind, that it +knocked several of them down: one of them particularly was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_286" id="Pg_286" title="Pg_286">[286]</a></span>thrown on the ground three times, and most of them bleeding +freely and complained of being much bruised. Willow run +had risen six feet since the rain, and as the plains were so +wet that they could not proceed, they passed the night at +their camp.</p> + +<p>At the Whitebear camp also, we had not been insensible +to the hail-storm, though less exposed. In the morning +there had been a heavy shower of rain, after which it became +fair. After assigning to the men their respective employments, +captain Lewis took one of them and went to see +the large fountain near the falls. For about six miles he +passed through a beautiful level plain, and then on reaching +the break of the river hills, was overtaken by the gust +of wind from the southwest attended by lightning, thunder, +and rain: fearing a renewal of the scene on the 27th, they +took shelter in a little gully where there were some broad +stones with which they meant to protect themselves against +the hail; but fortunately there was not much, and that of +a small size; so that they felt no inconvenience except that +of being exposed without shelter for an hour, and being +drenched by the rain: after it was over they proceeded to +the fountain which is perhaps the largest in America. It +is situated in a pleasant level plain, about twenty-five yards +from the river, into which it falls over some steep irregular +rocks with a sudden ascent of about six feet in one part of +its course. The water boils up from among the rocks and +with such force near the centre, that the surface seems +higher there than the earth on the sides of the fountain, +which is a handsome turf of fine green grass. The water +is extremely pure, cold and pleasant to the taste, not being +impregnated with lime or any foreign substance. It is perfectly +transparent and continues its bluish cast for half a +mile down the Missouri, notwithstanding the rapidity of +the river. After examining it for some time captain Lewis +returned to the camp.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_287" id="Pg_287" title="Pg_287">[287]</a></span>Sunday 30. In the morning Captain Clarke sent the men +to bring up the baggage left in the plains yesterday. On +their return the axletrees and carriages were repaired, +and the baggage, conveyed on the shoulders of the party +across Willow run which had fallen as low as three feet. +The carriages being then taken over, a load of baggage +was carried to the six-mile stake, deposited there, and +the carriages brought back. Such is the state of the plains +that this operation consumed the day. Two men were sent +to the falls to look for the articles lost yesterday; but they +found nothing but the compass covered with mud and +sand at the mouth of the ravine; the place at which captain +Clarke had been caught by the storm, was filled with +large rocks. The men complain much of the bruises received +yesterday from the hail. A more than usual number +of buffaloe appeared about the camp to-day, and furnished +plenty of meat: captain Clarke thought that at one +view he must have seen at least ten thousand. In the course +of the day there was a heavy gust of wind from the southwest, +after which the evening was fair.</p> + +<p>At the Whitebear camp we had a heavy dew this morning, +which is quite a remarkable occurrence. The party +continues to be occupied with the boat, the crossbars for +which are now finished, and there remain only the strips +to complete the wood work: the skins necessary to cover +it have already been prepared and they amount to twenty-eight +elk skins and four buffaloe skins. Among our game +were two beaver, which we have had occasion to observe +always are found wherever there is timber. We also killed +a large bat or goatsucker of which there are many in this +neighbourhood, resembling in every respect those of the +same species in the United States. We have not seen the +leather-winged bat for some time, nor are there any of the +small goatsucker in this part of the Missouri. We have +not seen either that species of goatsucker or nighthawk +called the whippoorwill, which is commonly confounded +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_288" id="Pg_288" title="Pg_288">[288]</a></span>in the United States with the large goatsucker which we +observe here; this last prepares no nest but lays its eggs in +the open plains; they generally begin to sit on two eggs, +and we believe raise only one brood in a season: at the present +moment they are just hatching their young.</p> + +<p>Monday, July 1. After a severe day's work captain +Clarke reached our camp in the evening, accompanied by +his party and all the baggage except that left at the six-mile +stake, for which they were too much fatigued to return. +The route from the lower camp on Portage creek +to that near Whitebear island, having been now measured +and examined by captain Clarke was as follows:</p> + +<p>From our camp opposite the last considerable rapid to +the entrance of Portage creek south 9° east for three quarters +of a mile: thence on a course south 10° east for two +miles, though for the canoes the best route is to the left of +this course, and strikes Portage one mile and three quarters +from its entrance, avoiding in this way a very steep hill +which lies above Portage creek; from this south 18° west +for four miles, passing the head of a drain or ravine which +falls into the Missouri below the great falls, and to the Willow +run which has always a plentiful supply of good water +and some timber: here the course turns to south 45° west +for four miles further; then south 66° west three miles, +crossing at the beginning of the course the head of a drain +which falls into the Missouri at the Crooked Falls, and +reaching an elevated point of the plain from which south +42° west. On approaching the river on this course there +is a long and gentle descent from the high plain, after +which the road turns a little to the right of the course up +the river to our camp. The whole portage is seventeen +and three quarter miles.</p> + +<p>At the Whitebear camp we were occupied with the boat +and digging a pit for the purpose of making some tar. The +day has been warm, and the mosquitoes troublesome. We +were fortunate enough to observe equal altitudes of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_289" id="Pg_289" title="Pg_289">[289]</a></span>sun with sextant, which since our arrival here we have been +prevented from doing, by flying clouds and storms in the +evening.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, July 2d. A shower of rain fell very early this +morning. We then despatched some men for the baggage +left behind yesterday, and the rest were engaged in putting +the boat together. This was accomplished in about three +hours, and then we began to sew on the leather over the +crossbars or iron on the inner side of the boat which form +the ends of the sections. By two o'clock the last of the +baggage arrived, to the great delight of the party who were +anxious to proceed. The mosquitoes we find very troublesome.</p> + +<p>Having completed our celestial observations we went +over to the large island to make an attack upon its inhabitants +the bears, who have annoyed us very much of late, +and who were prowling about our camp all last night. We +found that the part of the island frequented by the bear +forms an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad-leafed +willow: into this we forced our way in parties of three; but +could see only one bear, who instantly attacked Drewyer. +Fortunately as he was rushing on the hunter shot him +through the heart within twenty paces and he fell, which +enabled Drewyer to get out of his way: we then followed +him one hundred yards and found that the wound had been +mortal. Not being able to discover any more of these animals +we returned to camp: here in turning over some of the +baggage we caught a rat somewhat larger than the common +European rat, and of a lighter colour: the body and outer +parts of the legs and head of a light lead colour; the inner +side of the legs as well as the belly, feet and ears are white; +the ears are not covered with hair, and are much larger +than those of the common rat; the toes also are longer, the +eyes black and prominent, the whiskers very long and full; +the tail rather longer than the body, and covered with fine +fur and hair of the same size with that on the back, which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_290" id="Pg_290" title="Pg_290">[290]</a></span>is very close, short, and silky in its texture. This was the +first we had met, although its nests are very frequent among +the cliffs of rocks and hollow trees, where we also found +large quantities of the shells and seed of the prickly pear, +on which we conclude they chiefly subsist. The musquitoes +are uncommonly troublesome. The wind was again +high from the southwest: these winds are in fact always the +coldest and most violent which we experience, and the hypothesis +which we have formed on that subject is, that the +air coming in contact with the Snowy mountains immediately +becomes chilled and condensed, and being thus rendered +heavier than the air below it descends into the rarified +air below or into the vacuum formed by the constant action +of the sun on the open unsheltered plains. The clouds rise +suddenly near these mountains and distribute their contents +partially over the neighbouring plains. The same +cloud will discharge hail alone in one part, hail and rain in +another, and rain only in a third, and all within the space +of a few miles; while at the same time there is snow falling +on the mountains to the southeast of us. There is at present +no snow on those mountains; that which covered them +on our arrival as well as that which has since fallen having +disappeared. The mountains to the north and northwest of +us are still entirely covered with snow, and indeed there +has been no perceptible diminution of it since we first saw +them, which induces a belief either that the clouds prevailing +at this season do not reach their summits or that they +deposit their snow only. They glisten with great beauty +when the sun shines on them in a particular direction, and +most probably from this glittering appearance have derived +the name of the Shining mountains.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 3. Nearly the whole party were employed +in different labours connected with the boat, which is +now almost completed: but we have not as yet been able to +obtain tar from our kiln, a circumstance that will occasion +us not a little embarrassment. Having been told +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_291" id="Pg_291" title="Pg_291">[291]</a></span>by the Indians that on leaving the falls we should soon +pass the buffaloe country, we have before us the prospect +of fasting occasionally; but in order to provide a supply +we sent out the hunters who killed only a buffaloe and +two antelopes, which added to six beaver and two otter +have been all our game for two or three days. At ten in +the morning we had a light shower which scarcely wet +the grass.</p> + +<p>Thursday, July 4th. The boat was now completed except +what is in fact the most difficult part, the making her +seams secure. We had intended to despatch a canoe with +part of our men to the United States early this spring; but +not having yet seen the Snake Indians, or knowing whether +to calculate on their friendship or enmity, we have decided +not to weaken our party which is already scarcely sufficient +to repel any hostility. We were afraid too that such +a measure might dishearten those who remain; and as we +have never suggested it to them, they are all perfectly and +enthusiastically attached to the enterprise, and willing +to encounter any danger to ensure its success. We had a +heavy dew this morning.</p> + +<p>Since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly heard +a strange noise coming from the mountains in a direction +a little to the north of west. It is heard at different periods +of the day and night, sometimes when the air is perfectly +still and without a cloud, and consists of one stroke +only, or of five or six discharges in quick succession. It +is loud and resembles precisely the sound of a six pound +piece of ordnance at the distance of three miles. The +Minnetarees frequently mentioned this noise like thunder, +which they said the mountains made; but we had paid no +attention to it, believing it to have been some superstition +or perhaps a falsehood. The watermen also of the party +say that the Pawnees and Ricaras give the same account +of a noise heard in the Black mountains to the westward of +them. The solution of the mystery given by the philosophy +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_292" id="Pg_292" title="Pg_292">[292]</a></span>of the watermen is, that it is occasioned by the bursting +of the rich mines of silver confined within the bosom +of the mountain. An elk and a beaver are all that were killed +to-day: the buffaloe seemed to have withdrawn from our +neighbourhood, though several of the men who went to-day +to visit the falls for the first time, mention that they are +still abundant at that place. We contrived however to spread +not a very sumptuous but a comfortable table in honour of +the day, and in the evening gave the men a drink of spirits, +which was the last of our stock. Some of them appeared +sensible to the effects of even so small a quantity, and as is +usual among them on all festivals, the fiddle was produced +and a dance begun, which lasted till nine o'clock, when it +was interrupted by a heavy shower of rain. They continued +however their merriment till a late hour.</p> + +<p>Friday 5. The boat was brought up into a high situation +and fires kindled under her in order to dry her more +expeditiously. Despairing now of procuring any tar, we +formed a composition of pounded charcoal with beeswax +and buffaloe tallow to supply its place; should this resource +fail us it will be very unfortunate, as in every other +respect the boat answers our purposes completely. Although +not quite dry she can be carried with ease by five +men; her form is as complete as could be wished; very strong, +and will carry at least eight thousand pounds with her complement +of hands. Besides our want of tar, we have been +unlucky in sewing the skins with a needle which had +sharp edges instead of a point merely, although a large +thong was used in order to fill the hole, yet it shrinks in +drying and leaves the hole open, so that we fear the boat +will leak.</p> + +<p>A large herd of buffaloe came near us and we procured +three of them: besides which were killed two wolves and +three antelopes. In the course of the day other herds of +buffaloe came near our camp on their way down the river: +these herds move with great method and regularity. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_293" id="Pg_293" title="Pg_293">[293]</a></span>Although ten or twelve herds are seen scattered from each +other over a space of many miles, yet if they are undisturbed +by pursuit they will be uniformly travelling in the +same direction.</p> + +<p>Saturday 6. Last night there were several showers of +rain and hail, attended with thunder and lightning: and +about day break a heavy storm came on from the southwest +with one continued roar of thunder, and rain and hail. The +hail which was as large as musket balls, covered the ground +completely; and on collecting some of it, it lasted during +the day and served to cool the water. The red and yellow +currant is abundant and now ripe, although still a little +acid. We have seen in this neighbourhood what we have +not met before, a remarkably small fox which associates +in bands and burrows in the prairie, like the small wolf, but +have not yet been able to obtain any of them, as they are +extremely vigilant, and betake themselves on the slightest +alarm to their burrows which are very deep.</p> + +<p>Sunday 7. The weather is warm but cloudy, so that +the moisture retained by the bark after the rain leaves it +slowly, though we have small fires constantly under the +boat. We have no tents, and therefore are obliged to use +the sails to keep off the bad weather. Our buffaloe skins +too, are scarcely sufficient to cover our baggage, but the +men are now dressing others to replace their present leather +clothing, which soon rots by being so constantly exposed +to water. In the evening the hunters returned with +the skins of only three buffaloe, two antelope, four deer, and +three wolf skins, and reported that the buffaloe had gone +further down the river; two other hunters who left us this +morning could find nothing except one elk: in addition to +this we caught a beaver. The musquitoes still disturb us +very much, and the blowing-flies swarm in vast numbers +round the boat. At four in the afternoon we had a light +shower of rain attended with some thunder and lightning.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_294" id="Pg_294" title="Pg_294">[294]</a></span>Monday 8. In order more fully to replace the notes of +the river which he had lost, and which he was prevented +from supplying by the storm of the twenty-ninth ult. captain +Clarke set out after breakfast, taking with him nearly +the whole party with a view of shooting buffaloe if there +should be any near the falls. After getting some distance +in the plains the men were divided into squads, and he with +two others struck the Missouri at the entrance of Medicine +river, and thence proceeded down to the great cataract. He +found that the immense herds of buffaloe have entirely disappeared, +and he thought had gone below the falls. Having +made the necessary measurements, he returned through the +plains and reached camp late in the evening; the whole party +had killed only three buffaloe, three antelopes and a deer; +they had also shot a small fox, and brought a living ground-squirrel +somewhat larger than those of the United States.</p> + +<p>The day was warm and fair, but a slight rain fell in +the afternoon. The boat having now become sufficiently dry, +we gave it a coat of the composition, which after a proper +interval was repeated, and the next morning,</p> + +<p>Tuesday 9, she was launched into the water, and swam +perfectly well: the seats were then fixed and the oars fitted; +but after we had loaded her, as well as the canoes, and were +on the point of setting out a violent wind caused the waves +to wet the baggage, so that we were forced to unload them. +The wind continued high till evening, when to our great +disappointment we discovered that nearly all the composition +had separated from the skins, and left the seams perfectly +exposed; so that the boat now leaked very much. To +repair this misfortune without pitch is impossible, and as +none of that article is to be procured, we therefore, however +reluctantly, are obliged to abandon her, after having +had so much labour in the construction. We now saw that +the section of the boat covered with buffaloe skins on which +hair had been left, answered better than the elk skins and +leaked but little; while that part which was covered +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_295" id="Pg_295" title="Pg_295">[295]</a></span>hair about one eighth of an inch, retained the composition +perfectly, and remained sound and dry. From this we perceived +that had we employed buffaloe instead of elk skins, +and not singed them so closely as we have done, carefully +avoiding to cut the leather in sewing, the boat would have +been sufficient even with the present composition, or had we +singed instead of shaving the elk skins we might have succeeded. +But we discovered our error too late: the buffaloe +had deserted us, the travelling season was so fast advancing +that we had no time to spare for experiments, and therefore +finding that she could be no longer useful she was sunk +in the water, so as to soften the skins and enable us the +more easily to take her to pieces. It now became necessary +to provide other means for transporting the baggage which +we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose we shall +want two canoes, but for many miles below the mouth of +the Muscleshell river to this place, we have not seen a single +tree fit to be used in that way. The hunters however +who had hitherto been sent after timber, mention that there +is a low ground on the opposite side of the river, about eight +miles above us by land, and more than twice that distance +by water, in which we may probably find trees large enough +for our purposes. Captain Clarke therefore determined to +set out by land for that place with ten of the best workmen +who would be occupied in building the canoes till the rest of +the party, after taking the boat to pieces and making the +necessary deposits, should transport the baggage and join +them with the other six canoes.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 10. He accordingly passed over to the opposite +side of the river with his party, and proceeded on eight miles +by land, the distance by water being twenty-three and three +quarter miles. Here he found two cottonwood trees, but on +cutting them down, one proved to be hollow, split at the top +in falling, and both were much damaged at the bottom. He +searched the neighbourhood but could find none which would +suit better, and therefore was obliged to make use of those +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_296" id="Pg_296" title="Pg_296">[296]</a></span>which he had felled, shortening them in order to avoid the +cracks, and supplying the deficiency by making them as wide +as possible. They were equally at a loss for wood of which +they might make handles for their axes, the eyes of which +not being round they were obliged to split the timber in such +a manner that thirteen of the handles broke in the course of +the day, though made of the best wood they could find for +the purpose, which was the chokecherry.</p> + +<p>The rest of the party took the frame of the boat to pieces, +deposited it in a cache or hole, with a draught of the +country from fort Mandan to this place, and also some other +papers and small articles of less importance. After this we +amused ourselves with fishing, and although we had thought +on our arrival that there were none in this part of the river, +we caught some of a species of white chub below the falls, +but few in number, and small in size.</p> + +<p>Serjeant Ordway with four canoes and eight men had +set sail in the morning, with part of the baggage to the +place where captain Clarke had fixed his camp, but the +wind was so high that he only reached within three miles +of that place, and encamped for the night.</p> + +<p>Thursday, July 11. In the morning one of the canoes +joined captain Clarke: the other three having on board more +valuable articles, which would have been injured by the water, +went on more cautiously, and did not reach the camp +till the evening. Captain Clarke then had the canoes unloaded +and sent back, but the high wind prevented their floating +down nearer than about eight miles above us. His party +were busily engaged with the canoes, and their hunters +supplied them with three fat deer and a buffaloe, in addition +to two deer and an antelope killed yesterday. The few men +who were with captain Lewis were occupied in hunting, +but with not much success, having killed only one buffaloe. +They heard about sunset two discharges of the tremendous +mountain artillery: they also saw several very +large gray eagles, much larger than those of the United +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_297" id="Pg_297" title="Pg_297">[297]</a></span>States, and most probably a distinct species, though the bald +eagle of this country is not quite so large as that of the +United States. The men have been much afflicted with +painful whitlows, and one of them disabled from working by +this complaint in his hand.</p> + +<p>Friday, 12. In consequence of the wind the canoes did not +reach the lower camp till late in the afternoon, before which +time captain Lewis sent all the men he could spare up the +river to assist in building the boats, and the day was too far +advanced to reload and send them up before morning. The +mosquitoes are very troublesome, and they have a companion +not less so, a large black gnat which does not sting, but attacks +the eyes in swarms. The party with captain Clarke +are employed on the canoes: in the course of the work serjeant +Pryor dislocated his shoulder yesterday, but it was +replaced immediately, and though painful does not threaten +much injury. The hunters brought in three deer and two +otter. This last animal has been numerous since the water +has become sufficiently clear for them to take fish. The +blue-crested fisher, or as it is sometimes called, the kingfisher, +is an inhabitant of this part of the river; it is a bird +rare on the Missouri: indeed we had not seen more than +three or four of them from its entrance to Maria's river, +and even those did not seem to reside on the Missouri but on +some of the clearer streams which empty into it, as they +were seen near the mouths of those streams.</p> + +<p>Saturday 13. The morning being fair and calm captain +Lewis had all the remaining baggage embarked on board the +six canoes, which sailed with two men in each for the upper +camp. Then with a sick man and the Indian woman, he +left the encampment, and crossing over the river went on +by land to join captain Clarke. From the head of the Whitebear +islands he proceeded in a southwest direction, at the +distance of three miles, till he struck the Missouri, which +he then followed till he reached the place where all the party +were occupied in boat-building. On his way he passed a very +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_298" id="Pg_298" title="Pg_298">[298]</a></span>large Indian lodge, which was probably designed as a +great council-house, but it differs in its construction from all +that we have seen lower down the Missouri or elsewhere. +The form of it was a circle two hundred and sixteen feet in +circumference at the base, and composed of sixteen large +cottonwood poles about fifty feet long, and at their thicker +ends, which touched the ground, about the size of a man's +body: they were distributed at equal distances, except that +one was omitted to the east, probably for the entrance. From +the circumference of this circle the poles converged towards +the centre where they were united and secured by large +withes of willow brush. There was no covering over this +fabric, in the centre of which were the remains of a large +fire, and round it the marks of about eighty leathern lodges. +He also saw a number of turtledoves, and some pigeons, +of which he shot one differing in no respect from the wild +pigeon of the United States. The country exhibits its usual +appearances, the timber confined to the river, the country +on both sides as far as the eye can reach being entirely +destitute of trees or brush. In the low ground in which we +are building the canoes, the timber is larger and more abundant +than we have seen it on the Missouri for several hundred +miles. The soil too is good, for the grass and weeds +reach about two feet high, being the tallest we have observed +this season, though on the high plains and prairies the +grass is at no season above three inches in height. Among +these weeds are the sandrush, and nettle in small quantities; +the plains are still infested by great numbers of the small +birds already mentioned, among whom is the brown curlew. +The current of the river is here extremely gentle; the buffaloe +have not yet quite gone, for the hunters brought in three +in very good order. It requires some diligence to supply us +plentifully, for as we reserve our parched meal for the Rocky +mountains, where we do not expect to find much game, our +principal article of food is meat, and the consumption of the +whole thirty-two persons belonging to the party, amounts +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_299" id="Pg_299" title="Pg_299">[299]</a></span>to four deer, an elk and a deer, one buffaloe every twenty +four hours. The musquitoes and gnats persecute us as +violently as below, so that we can get no sleep unless defended +by biers, with which we are all provided. We here +found several plants hitherto unknown to us, and of which +we preserved specimens.</p> + +<p>Serjeant Ordway proceeded with the six canoes five +miles up the river, but the wind becoming so high as to wet +the baggage he was obliged to unload and dry it. The wind +abated at five o'clock in the evening, when he again proceeded +eight miles and encamped. The next morning,</p> + +<p>Sunday, July 14, he joined us about noon. On leaving +the Whitebear camp he passed at a short distance a little +creek or run coming in on the left. This had been already +examined and called Flattery run; it contains back water +only, with very extensive low grounds, which rising into +large plains reach the mountains on the east; then passed a +willow island on the left within one mile and a half, and +reached two miles further a cliff of rocks in a bend on the +same side. In the course of another mile and a half he passed +two islands covered with cottonwood, box-alder, sweet-willow, +and the usual undergrowth, like that of the Whitebear +islands. At thirteen and three quarter miles he came +to the mouth of a small creek on the left; within the following +nine miles he passed three timbered islands, and after +making twenty-three and a quarter miles from the lower +camp, arrived at the point of woodland on the north where +the canoes were constructed.</p> + +<p>The day was fair and warm; the men worked very industriously, +and were enabled by the evening to lanch the +boats, which now want only seats and oars to be complete. +One of them is twenty-five, the other thirty-three feet in +length and three feet wide. Captain Lewis walked out between +three and four miles over the rocky bluffs to a high +situation, two miles from the river, a little below Fort +Mountain creek. The country which he saw was in most parts +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_300" id="Pg_300" title="Pg_300">[300]</a></span>level, but occasionally became varied by gentle rises and +descents, but with no timber except along the water. From +this position, the point at which the Missouri enters the +first chain of the Rocky mountains bore south 28° west +about twenty-five miles, according to our estimate.</p> + +<p>The northern extremity of that chain north 73° west at +the distance of eighty miles.</p> + +<p>To the same extremity of the second chain north 65° +west one hundred and fifty miles.</p> + +<p>To the most remote point of a third and continued chain +of these mountains north 50° west about two hundred miles.</p> + +<p>The direction of the first chain was from south 20° east +to north 20° west; of the second, from south 45° east to +north 45° west; but the eye could not reach their southern +extremities, which most probably may be traced to Mexico. +In a course south 75° west, and at the distance of eight +miles is a mountain, which from its appearance we shall call +Fort Mountain. It is situated in the level plain, and forms +nearly a square, each side of which is a mile in extent. +These sides, which are composed of a yellow clay with no +mixture of rock or stone whatever, rise perpendicularly to +the height of three hundred feet, where the top becomes a +level plain covered, as captain Lewis now observed, with a +tolerably fertile mould two feet thick, on which was a coat +of grass similar to that of the plain below: it has the appearance +of being perfectly inaccessible, and although the +mounds near the falls somewhat resemble it, yet none of +them are so large.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_301" id="Pg_301" title="Pg_301">[301]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The party embark on board the canoes—Description of Smith's river—Character +of the country, &c.—Dearborne's river described—Captain Clarke precedes +the party for the purpose of discovering the Indians of the Rocky +mountains—Magnificent rocky appearances on the borders of the river denominated +the Gates of the Rocky mountains—Captain Clarke arrives at the +three forks of the Missouri without overtaking the Indians—The party arrive +at the three forks, of which a particular and interesting description is +given.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>Monday, July 15. We rose early, embarked all our baggage +on board the canoes, which though light in number are +still heavily loaded, and at ten o'clock set out on our journey. +At the distance of three miles we passed an island, just above +which is a small creek coming in from the left, which we +called Fort Mountain creek, the channel of which is ten +yards wide but now perfectly dry. At six miles we came to +an island opposite to a bend towards the north side; and +reached at seven and a half miles the lower point of a +woodland at the entrance of a beautiful river, which in honour +of the secretary of the navy we called Smith's river. +This stream falls into a bend on the south side of the +Missouri, and is eighty yards wide. As far as we could +discern its course it wound through a charming valley +towards the southeast, in which many herds of buffaloe +were feeding, till at the distance of twenty five miles it +entered the Rocky mountains, and was lost from our view. +After dining near this place we proceeded on four and +three quarter miles to the head of an island; four and a +quarter miles beyond which is a second island on the left; +three and a quarter miles further in a bend of the river +towards the north, is a wood where we encamped for the +night, after making nineteen and three quarter miles.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_302" id="Pg_302" title="Pg_302">[302]</a></span>We find the prickly pear, one of the greatest beauties +as well as the greatest inconveniences of the plains, +now in full bloom. The sunflower too, a plant common +on every part of the Missouri from its entrance to this +place, is here very abundant and in bloom. The lambsquarter, +wild-cucumber, sandrush, and narrowdock are also +common. Two elk, a deer, and an otter, were our game +to-day.</p> + +<p>The river has now become so much more crooked +than below that we omit taking all its short meanders, +but note only its general course, and lay down the small +bends on our daily chart by the eye. The general width +is from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards. Along +the banks are large beds of sand raised above the plains, +and as they always appear on the sides of the river opposite +to the southwest exposure, seem obviously brought +there from the channel of the river by the incessant winds +from that quarter: we find also more timber than for a great +distance below the falls.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 16. There was a heavy dew last night. We +soon passed about forty little booths, formed of willow +bushes as a shelter against the sun. These seemed to have +been deserted about ten days, and as we supposed by the +Snake Indians, or Shoshonees, whom we hope soon to meet, +as they appeared from the tracks to have a number of +horses with them. At three and three quarter miles we +passed a creek or run in a bend on the left side, and four +miles further another run or small rivulet on the right. After +breakfasting on a buffaloe shot by one of the hunters, +captain Lewis resolved to go on ahead of the party to the +point where the river enters the Rocky mountains and +make the necessary observations before our arrival. He +therefore set out with Drewyer and two of the sick men +to whom he supposed the walk would be useful: he travelled +on the north side of the river through a handsome level +plain, which continued on the opposite side also, and at the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_303" id="Pg_303" title="Pg_303">[303]</a></span>distance of eight miles passed a small stream on which he +observed a considerable quantity of the aspen tree. A little +before twelve o'clock he halted on a bend to the north in a +low ground well covered with timber, about four and a +half miles below the mountains, and obtained a meridian +altitude, by which he found the latitude was N. 46° 46' 50" 2"'. +His route then lay through a high waving plain to a +rapid where the Missouri first leaves the Rocky mountains, +and here he encamped for the night.</p> + +<p>In the meantime we had proceeded after breakfast one +mile to a bend in the left, opposite to which was the frame +of a large lodge situated in the prairie, constructed like that +already mentioned above the Whitebear islands, but only +sixty feet in diameter: round it were the remains of about +eighty leathern lodges, all which seemed to have been +built during the last autumn; within the next fifteen and a +quarter miles we passed ten islands, on the last of which +we encamped near the right shore, having made twenty-three +miles. The next morning,</p> + +<p>Wednesday 17, we set out early, and at four miles distance +joined captain Lewis at foot of the rapids, and +after breakfast began the passage of them: some of the articles +most liable to be injured by the water were carried +round. We then double manned the canoes, and with +the aid of the towing-line got them up without accident. +For several miles below the rapids the current of the Missouri +becomes stronger as you approach, and the spurs of +the mountains advance towards the river, which is deep and +not more than seventy yards wide: at the rapids the river +is closely hemmed in on both sides by the hills, and foams +for half a mile over the rocks which obstruct its channel. +The low grounds are now not more than a few yards in +width, but they furnish room for an Indian road which +winds under the hills on the north side of the river. The +general range of these hills is from southeast to northwest, +and the cliffs themselves are about eight hundred feet above +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_304" id="Pg_304" title="Pg_304">[304]</a></span>the water, formed almost entirely of a hard black granite, +on which are scattered a few dwarf pine and cedar trees. +Immediately in the gap is a large rock four hundred feet +high, which on one side is washed by the Missouri, while on +its other sides a handsome little plain separates it from the +neighbouring mountains. It may be ascended with some difficulty +nearly to its summit, and affords a beautiful prospect +of the plains below, in which we could observe large herds +of buffaloe. After ascending the rapids for half a mile we +came to a small island at the head of them, which we called +Pine island from a large pine tree at the lower end of it, +which is the first we have seen near the river for a great +distance. A mile beyond captain Lewis's camp we had a meridian +altitude which gave us the latitude of 46° 42' 14" 7"'. +As the canoes were still heavily loaded all those not employed +in working them walked on shore. The navigation +is now very laborious. The river is deep but with little +current and from seventy to one hundred yards wide; the +low grounds are very narrow, with but little timber and +that chiefly the aspen tree. The cliffs are steep and hang +over the river so much that often we could not cross them, +but were obliged to pass and repass from one side of the +river to the other in order to make our way. In some places +the banks are formed of rocks, of dark black granite rising +perpendicularly to a great height, through which the river +seems in the progress of time to have worn its channel. On +these mountains we see more pine than usual, but it is still +in small quantities. Along the bottoms, which have a covering +of high grass, we observe the sunflower blooming in +great abundance. The Indians of the Missouri, and more +especially those who do not cultivate maize, make great +use of the seed of this plant for bread or in thickening their +soup. They first parch and then pound it between two +stones until it is reduced to a fine meal. Sometimes they +add a portion of water, and drink it thus diluted: at other +times they add a sufficient proportion of marrow grease to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_305" id="Pg_305" title="Pg_305">[305]</a></span>reduce it to the consistency of common dough and eat it in +that manner. This last composition we preferred to all the +rest, and thought it at that time a very palatable dish. +There is however little of the broad-leafed cottonwood on +this side of the falls, much the greater part of what we +see being of the narrow-leafed species. There are also +great quantities of red, purple, yellow and black currants. +The currants are very pleasant to the taste, and much preferable +to those of our common garden. The bush rises to +the height of six or eight feet; the stem simple, branching +and erect. These shrubs associate in corps either in upper +or timbered lands near the water courses. The leaf is peteolate, +of a pale green, and in form resembles the red currant +so common in our gardens. The perianth of the fruit +is one leaved, five cleft, abbriviated and tubular. The corolla +is monopetallous, funnel-shaped, very long, and of a fine +orange colour. There are five stamens and one pistillum +of the first, the filaments are capillar, inserted in the corolla, +equal and converging, the anther ovate and incumbent. +The germ of the second species is round, smooth, inferior +and pidicelled: the style long and thicker than the stamens, +simple, cylindrical, smooth and erect. It remains with the +corolla until the fruit is ripe, the stamen is simple and obtuse, +and the fruit much the size and shape of our common +garden currants, growing like them in clusters supported by +a compound footstalk. The peduncles are longer in this +species, and the berries are more scattered. The fruit is not +so acid as the common currant, and has a more agreeable +flavour.</p> + +<p>The other species differs in no respect from the yellow +currant excepting in the colour and flavour of the berries.</p> + +<p>The serviceberry differs in some points from that of the +United States. The bushes are small, sometimes not more +than two feet high, and rarely exceed eight inches. They are +proportionably small in their stems, growing very thickly, associated +in clumps. The fruit is of the same form, but for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_306" id="Pg_306" title="Pg_306">[306]</a></span>the most part larger and of a very dark purple. They +are now ripe and in great perfection. There are two +species of gooseberry here, but neither of them yet ripe: +nor are the chokecherry, though in great quantities. +Besides there are also at that place the box alder, red willow +and a species of sumach. In the evening we saw some +mountain rams or big-horned animals, but no other game of +any sort. After leaving Pine island we passed a small run +on the left, which is formed by a large spring rising at the +distance of half a mile under the mountain. One mile and +a half above the island is another, and two miles further a +third island, the river making small bends constantly to the +north. From this last island to a point of rocks on the +south side the low grounds become rather wider, and three +quarters of a mile beyond these rocks, in a bend on the +north, we encamped opposite to a very high cliff, having +made during the day eleven and a half miles.</p> + +<p>Thursday 18. This morning early before our departure +we saw a large herd of the big-horned animals, who +were bounding among the rocks in the opposite cliff with +great agility. These inaccessible spots secure them from +all their enemies, and the only danger is in wandering +among these precipices, where we should suppose it scarcely +possible for any animal to stand; a single false step +would precipitate them at least five hundred feet into the +water. At one mile and a quarter we passed another single +cliff on the left; at the same distance beyond which is +the mouth of a large river emptying itself from the north. +It is a handsome, bold, and clear stream, eighty yards wide, +that is nearly as broad as the Missouri, with a rapid current +over a bed of small smooth stones of various figures. +The water is extremely transparent, the low grounds are +narrow, but possess as much wood as those of the Missouri; +and it has every appearance of being navigable, though to +what distance we cannot ascertain, as the country which +it waters, is broken and mountainous. In honour of the secretary +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_307" id="Pg_307" title="Pg_307">[307]</a></span>at war we called it Dearborn's river. Being now +very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, +for the purpose of obtaining the necessary information of +our route, as well as to procure horses, it was thought best +for one of us to go forward with a small party and endeavour +to discover them, before the daily discharge of our +guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, should give +them notice of our approach: if by an accident they hear +us, they will most probably retreat to the mountains, mistaking +us for their enemies who usually attack them on this +side. Accordingly captain Clarke set out with three men, +and followed the course of the river on the north side; but +the hills were so steep at first that he was not able to go +much faster than ourselves. In the evening however he cut +off many miles of the circuitous course of the river, by +crossing a mountain over which he found a wide Indian +road which in many places seems to have been cut or dug +down in the earth. He passed also two branches of a +stream which he called Ordway's creek, where he saw a +number of beaver-dams extending in close succession towards +the mountains as far as he could distinguish: on the +cliffs were many of the big-horned animals. After crossing +this mountain he encamped near a small stream of running +water, having travelled twenty miles.</p> + +<p>On leaving Dearborn's river we passed at three and a +half miles a small creek, and at six beyond it an island on +the north side of the river, which makes within that distance +many small bends. At two and a half miles further +is another island: three quarters of a mile beyond this is a +small creek on the north side. At a mile and a half above +the creek is a much larger stream thirty yards wide, and +discharging itself with a bold current on the north side: the +banks are low, and the bed formed of stones altogether. +To this stream we gave the name of Ordway's creek, after +serjeant John Ordway. At two miles beyond this the valley +widens: we passed several bends of the river, and encamped +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_308" id="Pg_308" title="Pg_308">[308]</a></span>in the centre of one on the south, having made +twenty-one miles. Here we found a small grove of the narrow-leafed +cottonwood, there being no longer any of the +broad-leafed kind since we entered the mountains. The +water of these rivulets which come down from the mountains +is very cold, pure, and well tasted. Along their banks +as well as on the Missouri the aspen is very common, but of +a small kind. The river is somewhat wider than we found +it yesterday; the hills more distant from the river and not +so high; there are some pines on the mountains, but they +are principally confined to the upper regions of them: the +low grounds are still narrower and have little or no timber. +The soil near the river is good, and produces a luxuriant +growth of grass and weeds; among these productions the +sunflower holds a very distinguished place. For several +days past we have observed a species of flax in the low +grounds, the leaf-stem and pericarp of which resemble those +of the flax commonly cultivated in the United States: the +stem rises to the height of two and a half or three feet, and +spring to the number of eight or ten from the same root, +with a strong thick bark apparently well calculated for use: +the root seems to be perennial, and it is probable that the +cutting of the stems may not at all injure it, for although +the seeds are not yet ripe, there are young suckers shooting +up from the root, whence we may infer that the stems +which are fully grown and in the proper stage of vegetation +to produce the best flax, are not essential to the preservation +or support of the root, a circumstance which would +render it a most valuable plant. To-day we have met with +a second species of flax smaller than the first, as it seldom +obtains a greater height than nine or twelve inches: the +leaf and stem resemble those of the species just mentioned, +except that the latter is rarely branched, and bears a single +monopetalous bell-shaped blue flower, suspended with its +limb downwards. We saw several herds of the big-horn, but +they were in the cliffs beyond our reach. We killed an elk +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_309" id="Pg_309" title="Pg_309">[309]</a></span>this morning and found part of a deer which had been left +for us by captain Clarke. He pursued his route,</p> + +<p>Friday, 19, early in the morning, and soon passed the +remains of several Indian camps formed of willow brush, +which seemed to have been deserted this spring. At the +same time he observed that the pine trees had been stripped +of their bark about the same season, which our Indian +woman say her countrymen do in order to obtain the sap +and the soft parts of the wood and bark for food. About +eleven o'clock he met a herd of elk and killed two of them, +but such was the want of wood in the neighbourhood that +he was unable to procure enough to make a fire, and he was +therefore obliged to substitute the dung of the buffaloe, +with which he cooked his breakfast. They then resumed +their course along an old Indian road. In the afternoon they +reached a handsome valley watered by a large creek, both +of which extend a considerable distance into the mountain: +this they crossed, and during the evening travelled over a +mountainous country covered with sharp fragments of flint-rock: +these bruised and cut their feet very much, but were +scarcely less troublesome than the prickly pear of the open +plains, which have now become so abundant that it is impossible +to avoid them, and the thorns are so strong that +they pierce a double soal of dressed deer skin: the best resource +against them is a soal of buffaloe hide in parchment. +At night they reached the river much fatigued, having passed +two mountains in the course of the day and having travelled +thirty miles. Captain Clarke's first employment on +lighting a fire was to extract from his feet the briars, which +he found seventeen in number.</p> + +<p>In the meantime we proceeded on very well, though the +water appears to increase in rapidity as we advance: the +current has indeed been strong during the day and obstructed +by some rapids, which are not however much broken by +rocks, and are perfectly safe: the river is deep, and its +general width is from one hundred to one hundred and fifty +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_310" id="Pg_310" title="Pg_310">[310]</a></span>yards wide. For more than thirteen miles we went along +the numerous bends of the river and then reached two small +islands; three and three quarter miles beyond which is a +small creek in a bend to the left, above a small island on the +right side of the river. We were regaled about ten o'clock +P.M. with a thunder storm of rain and hail which lasted +for an hour, but during the day in this confined valley, +through which we are passing, the heat is almost insupportable; +yet whenever we obtain a glimpse of the lofty tops of +the mountains we are tantalized with a view of the snow. +These mountains have their sides and summits partially +varied with little copses of pine, cedar, and balsam fir. A +mile and a half beyond this creek the rocks approach the +river on both sides, forming a most sublime and extraordinary +spectacle. For five and three quarter miles these +rocks rise perpendicularly from the water's edge to the +height of nearly twelve hundred feet. They are composed +of a black granite near its base, but from its lighter colour +above and from the fragments we suppose the upper part +to be flint of a yellowish brown and cream colour. Nothing +can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness +of these rocks, which project over the river and menace +us with destruction. The river, of one hundred and fifty +yards in width, seems to have forced its channel down this +solid mass, but so reluctantly has it given way that during +the whole distance the water is very deep even at the edges, +and for the first three miles there is not a spot except one +of a few yards, in which a man could stand between the +water and the towering perpendicular of the mountain: the +convulsion of the passage must have been terrible, since at +its outlet there are vast columns of rock torn from the +mountain which are strewed on both sides of the river, the +trophies as it were of the victory. Several fine springs +burst out from the chasms of the rock, and contribute to +increase the river, which has now a strong current, but very +fortunately we are able to overcome it with our oars, since +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_311" id="Pg_311" title="Pg_311">[311]</a></span>it would be impossible to use either the cord or the pole. +We were obliged to go on some time after dark, not being +able to find a spot large enough to encamp on, but at length +about two miles above a small inland in the middle of the +river we met with a spot on the left side, where we procured +plenty of lightwood and pitchpine. This extraordinary +range of rocks we called the Gates of the Rocky mountains. +We had made twenty-two miles; and four and a quarter +miles from the entrance of the gates. The mountains +are higher to-day than they were yesterday. We saw some +big-horns, a few antelopes and beaver, but since entering +the mountains have found no buffaloe: the otter are however +in great plenty: the musquitoes have become less troublesome +than they were.</p> + +<p>Saturday 20. By employing the towrope whenever the +banks permitted the use of it, the river being too deep for +the pole, we were enabled to overcome the current which +is still strong. At the distance of half a mile we came to +a high rock in a bend to the left in the Gates. Here the +perpendicular rocks cease, the hills retire from the river, +and the vallies suddenly widen to a greater extent than +they have been since we entered the mountains. At this +place was some scattered timber, consisting of the narrow-leafed +cottonwood, the aspen, and pine. There are also +vast quantities of gooseberries, serviceberries, and several +species of currant, among which is one of a black colour, the +flavour of which is preferable to that of the yellow, and +would be deemed superior to that of any currant in the United +States. We here killed an elk which was a pleasant +addition to our stock of food. At a mile from the Gates, a +large creek comes down from the mountains and empties +itself behind an island in the middle of a bend to the north. +To this stream which is fifteen yards wide we gave the name +of Potts's creek, after John Potts, one of our men. Up this +valley about seven miles we discovered a great smoke, as +if the whole country had been set on fire; but were at a loss +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_312" id="Pg_312" title="Pg_312">[312]</a></span>to decide whether it had been done accidentally by captain +Clarke's party, or by the Indians as a signal on their observing +us. We afterwards learnt that this last was the +fact; for they had heard a gun fired by one of captain +Clarke's men, and believing that their enemies were approaching +had fled into the mountains, first setting fire to +the plains as a warning to their countrymen. We continued +our course along several islands, and having made in the +course of the day fifteen miles, encamped just above an +island, at a spring on a high bank on the left side of the +river. In the latter part of the evening we had passed +through a low range of mountains, and the country became +more open, though still unbroken and without timber, and +the lowlands not very extensive: and just above our camp +the river is again closed in by the mountains. We found on +the banks an elk which captain Clarke had left us, with a +note mentioning that he should pass the mountains just +above us and wait our arrival at some convenient place. We +saw but could not procure some redheaded ducks and sandhill +cranes along the sides of the river, and a woodpecker +about the size of the lark-woodpecker, which seems to be +a distinct species: it is as black as a crow with a long tail, +and flies like a jaybird. The whole country is so infested +by the prickly pear that we could scarcely find room to lie +down at our camp.</p> + +<p>Captain Clarke on setting out this morning had gone +through the valley about six miles to the right of the river. +He soon fell into an old Indian road which he pursued till +he reached the Missouri, at the distance of eighteen miles +from his last encampment, just above the entrance of a large +creek, which we afterwards called Whiteearth creek. Here +he found his party so much cut and pierced with the sharp +flint and the prickly pear that he proceeded only a small +distance further, and then halted to wait for us. Along his +track he had taken the precaution to strew signals, such as +pieces of cloth, paper and linen, to prove to the Indians, if by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_313" id="Pg_313" title="Pg_313">[313]</a></span>accident they met his track, that we were white men. But +he observed a smoke some distance ahead, and concluded +that the whole country had now taken the alarm.</p> + +<p>Sunday 21. On leaving our camp we passed an island at +half a mile, and reached at one mile a bad rapid at the place +where the river leaves the mountain: here the cliffs are high +and covered with fragments of broken rocks, the current is +also strong, but although more rapid the river is wider and +shallower, so that we are able to use the pole occasionally, +though we principally depend on the towline. On leaving +this rapid which is about half a mile in extent, the country +opens on each side; the hills become lower; at one mile is +a large island on the left side, and four and a half beyond +it a large and bold creek twenty-eight yards wide, coming +in from the north, where it waters a handsome valley: we +called it Pryor's creek after one of the sergeants, John +Pryor. At a mile above this creek on the left side of the +Missouri we obtained a meridian altitude, which gave 46° +10' 32" 9"' as the latitude of the place. For the following +four miles, the country, like that through which we +passed during the rest of the day, is rough and mountainous +as we found it yesterday; but at the distance of +twelve miles, we came towards evening into a beautiful +plain ten or twelve miles wide and extending as far the eye +could reach. This plain or rather valley is bounded by two +nearly parallel ranges of high mountains whose summits +are partially covered with snow, below which the pine is +scattered along the sides down to the plain in some places, +though the greater part of their surface has no timber and +exhibits only a barren soil with no covering except dry +parched grass or black rugged rocks. On entering the valley +the river assumes a totally different aspect; it spreads +to more than a mile in width, and though more rapid than +before, is shallow enough in almost every part for the use +of the pole, while its bed is formed of smooth stones and +some large rocks, as it has been indeed since we entered +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_314" id="Pg_314" title="Pg_314">[314]</a></span>the mountains: it is also divided by a number of islands +some of which are large near the northern shore. The soil +of the valley is a rich black loam apparently very fertile, +and covered with a fine green grass about eighteen inches +or two feet in height; while that of the high grounds is perfectly +dry and seems scorched by the sun. The timber +though still scarce is in greater quantities in this valley than +we have seen it since entering the mountains, and seems to +prefer the borders of the small creeks to the banks of the +river itself. We advanced three and a half miles in this +valley and encamped on the left side, having made in all +fifteen and a half miles.</p> + +<p>Our only large game to-day was one deer. We saw however +two pheasants of a dark brown colour, much larger +than the same species of bird in the United States. In the +morning too, we saw three swans which, like the geese, +have not yet recovered the feathers of the wing, and were +unable to fly: we killed two of them, and the third escaped +by diving and passing down the current. These are the first +we have seen on the river for a great distance, and as they +had no young with them, we presume that they do not breed +in this neighbourhood. Of the geese we daily see great +numbers, with their young perfectly feathered except on +the wings, where both young and old are deficient; the first +are very fine food, but the old ones are poor and unfit for +use. Several of the large brown or sandhill crane are feeding +in the low grounds on the grass which forms their principal +food. The young crane cannot fly at this season: they +are as large as a turkey, of a bright reddish bay colour. Since +the river has become shallow we have caught a number of +trout to-day, and a fish, white on the belly and sides, but of +a bluish cast on the back, and a long pointed mouth opening +somewhat like that of the shad.</p> + +<p>This morning captain Clarke wishing to hunt but fearful +of alarming the Indians, went up the river for three +miles, when finding neither any of them nor of their recent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_315" id="Pg_315" title="Pg_315">[315]</a></span>tracks returned, and then his little party separated to look +for game. They killed two bucks and a doe, and a young +curlew nearly feathered: in the evening they found the musquitoes +as troublesome as we did: these animals attack us +as soon as the labours and fatigues of the day require some +rest, and annoy us till several hours after dark, when the +coldness of the air obliges them to disappear; but such is +their persecution that were it not for our biers we should +obtain no repose.</p> + +<p>Monday, 22. We set out at an early hour. The river +being divided into so many channels by both large and small +islands, that it was impossible to lay it down accurately by +following in a canoe any single channel, captain Lewis +walked on shore, took the general courses of the river, and +from the rising grounds laid down the situation of the +islands and channels, which he was enabled to do with perfect +accuracy, the view not being obstructed by much timber. +At one mile and a quarter we passed an island somewhat +larger than the rest, and four miles further reached +the upper end of another, on which we breakfasted. This +is a large island forming in the middle of a bend to the +north a level fertile plain ten feet above the surface of the +water and never overflowed. Here we found great quantities +of a small onion about the size of a musket ball, +though some were larger; it is white, crisp, and as well +flavoured as any of our garden onions; the seed is just +ripening, and as the plant bears a large quantity to the +square foot, and stands the rigours of the climate, it will no +doubt be an acquisition to settlers. From this production +we called it Onion island. During the next seven and three +quarter miles we passed several long circular bends, and a +number of large and small islands which divide the river +into many channels, and then reached the mouth of a creek +on the north side. It is composed of three creeks which +unite in a handsome valley about four miles before they +discharge themselves into the Missouri, where it is about +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_316" id="Pg_316" title="Pg_316">[316]</a></span>fifteen feet wide and eight feet deep, with clear transparent +water. Here we halted for dinner, but as the canoes took +different channels in ascending it was some time before they +all joined. Here we were delighted to find that the Indian +woman recognizes the country; she tells us that to this creek +her countrymen make excursions to procure a white paint +on its banks, and we therefore call it Whiteearth creek. +She says also that the three forks of the Missouri are at no +great distance, a piece of intelligence which has cheered the +spirits of us all, as we hope soon to reach the head of that +river. This is the warmest day except one we have experienced +this summer. In the shade the mercury stood at +80° above 0, which is the second time it has reached that +height during this season. We encamped on an island after +making nineteen and three quarter miles.</p> + +<p>In the course of the day we saw many geese, cranes, +small birds common to the plains, and a few pheasants: we +also observed a small plover or curlew of a brown colour, +about the size of the yellow-legged plover or jack curlew, +but of a different species. It first appeared near the mouth +of Smith's river, but is so shy and vigilant that we were +unable to shoot it. Both the broad and narrow-leafed willow +continue, though the sweet willow has become very +scarce. The rosebush, small honeysuckle, the pulpy-leafed +thorn, southern wood, sage and box-alder, narrow-leafed +cottonwood, redwood, and a species of sumach, are all abundant. +So too are the red and black gooseberries, serviceberries, +chokecherry, and the black, red, yellow, and purple +currant, which last seems to be a favourite food of the +bear. Before encamping we landed and took on board +captain Clarke with the meat he had collected during this +day's hunt, which consisted of one deer and an elk: we had +ourselves shot a deer and an antelope. The musquitoes and +gnats were unusually fierce this evening.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 23. Captain Clarke again proceeded with +four men along the right bank. During the whole day the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_317" id="Pg_317" title="Pg_317">[317]</a></span>river divided by a number of islands, which spread it out +sometimes to the distance of three miles: the current is very +rapid and has many ripples; and the bed formed of gravel +and smooth stones. The banks along the low grounds are +of a rich loam, followed occasionally by low bluffs of yellow +and red clay, with a hard red slatestone intermixed. The +low grounds are wide, and have very little timber but a +thick underbrush of willow, and rose and currant bushes: +these are succeeded by high plains extending on each side +to the base of the mountains, which lie parallel to the river +about eight or twelve miles apart, and are high and rocky, +with some small pine and cedar interspersed on them. At +the distance of seven miles a creek twenty yards wide, after +meandering through a beautiful low ground on the left +for several miles parallel to the river, empties itself near a +cluster of small islands: the stream we called Whitehouse +creek after Joseph Whitehouse one of the party, and the +islands from their number received the name of the "Ten +islands." About ten o'clock we came up with Drewyer, who +had gone out to hunt yesterday, and not being able to find +our encampment had staid out all night: he now supplied us +with five deer. Three and a quarter miles beyond Whitehouse +creek we came to the lower point of an island where +the river is three hundred yards wide, and continued along it +for one mile and a quarter, and then passed a second island +just above it. We halted rather early for dinner in order +to dry some part of the baggage which had been wet in the +canoes: we then proceeded, and at five and a half miles had +passed two small islands. Within the next three miles we +came to a large island, which from its figure we called +Broad island. From that place we made three and a half +miles, and encamped on an island to the left, opposite to +a much larger one on the right. Our journey to-day +was twenty-two and a quarter miles, the greater part of +which was made by means of our poles and cords, the use +of which the banks much favoured. During the whole time +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_318" id="Pg_318" title="Pg_318">[318]</a></span>we had the small flags hoisted in the canoes to apprise the +Indians, if there were any in the neighbourhood, of our being +white men and their friends; but we were not so fortunate +as to discover any of them. Along the shores we saw great +quantities of the common thistle, and procured a further +supply of wild onions and a species of garlic growing on the +highlands, which is now green and in bloom: it has a flat +leaf, and is strong, tough, and disagreeable. There was also +much of the wild flax, of which we now obtained some ripe +seed, as well as some bullrush and cattail flag. Among the animals +we met with a black snake about two feet long, with +the belly as dark as any other part of the body, which was +perfectly black, and which had one hundred and twenty-eight +scuta on the belly and sixty-three on the tail: we also +saw antelopes, crane, geese, ducks, beaver, and otter; and +took up four deer which had been left on the water side by +captain Clarke. He had pursued all day an Indian road on +the right side of the river, and encamped late in the evening +at the distance of twenty-five miles from our camp of +last night. In the course of his walk he met besides deer +a number of antelopes and a herd of elk, but all the tracks +of Indians, though numerous, were of an old date.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 24. We proceeded for four and a quarter +miles along several islands to a small run, just above which +the low bluffs touch the river. Within three and a half miles +further we came to a small island on the north, and a remarkable +bluff composed of earth of a crimson colour, intermixed +with stratas of slate, either black or of a red resembling +brick. The following six and three quarter miles +brought us to an assemblage of islands, having passed four +at different distances; and within the next five miles we met +the same number of islands, and encamped on the north +after making nineteen and a half miles. The current of the +river was strong and obstructed, as indeed it has been for +some days by small rapids or ripples which descend from +one to three feet in the course of one hundred and fifty +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_319" id="Pg_319" title="Pg_319">[319]</a></span>yards, but they are rarely incommoded by any fixed rocks, +and therefore, though the water is rapid, the passage is not +attended with danger. The valley through which the river +passes is like that of yesterday; the nearest hills generally +concealing the most distant from us; but when we obtain a +view of them they present themselves in amphitheatre, +rising above each other as they recede from the river till +the most remote are covered with snow. We saw many otter +and beaver to-day: the latter seem to contribute very much +to the number of islands and the widening of the river. +They begin by damming up the small channels of about +twenty yards between the islands; this obliges the river to +seek another outlet, and as soon as this is effected the channel +stopped by the beaver becomes filled with mud and sand. +The industrious animal is then driven to another channel +which soon shares the same fate, till the river spreads on +all sides, and cuts the projecting points of the land into +islands. We killed a deer and saw great numbers of antelopes, +cranes, some geese, and a few redheaded ducks. +The small birds of the plains and the curlew are still abundant: +we saw but could not come within gunshot of a large +bear. There is much of the track of elk but none of the +animals themselves, and from the appearance of bones and +old excrement, we suppose that buffaloe have sometimes +strayed into the valley, though we have as yet seen no recent +sign of them. Along the water are a number of snakes, +some of a brown uniform colour, others black, and a third +speckled on the abdomen, and striped with black and a +brownish yellow in the back and sides. The first, which are +the largest, are about four feet long; the second is of the +kind mentioned yesterday, and the third resembles in size +and appearance the garter-snake of the United States. On +examining the teeth of all these several kinds we found +them free from poison: they are fond of the water, in which +they take shelter on being pursued. The mosquitoes, gnats, +and prickly pear, our three persecutors, still continue with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_320" id="Pg_320" title="Pg_320">[320]</a></span>us, and joined with the labour of working the canoes have +fatigued us all excessively. Captain Clarke continued along +the Indian road which led him up a creek. About ten o'clock +he saw at the distance of six miles a horse feeding in the +plains. He went towards him, but the animal was so wild +that he could not get within several hundred paces of him: +he then turned obliquely to the river where he killed a deer +and dined, having passed in this valley five handsome +streams, only one of which had any timber; another had +some willows, and was very much dammed up by the beaver. +After dinner he continued his route along the river and encamped +at the distance of thirty miles. As he went along +he saw many tracks of Indians, but none of recent date. +The next morning,</p> + +<p>Thursday, 25, at the distance of a few miles he arrived +at the three forks of the Missouri. Here he found that the +plains had been recently burnt on the north side, and saw +the track of a horse which seemed to have passed about +four or five days since. After breakfast he examined the +rivers, and finding that the north branch, although not +larger, contained more water than the middle branch, and +bore more to the westward, he determined to ascend it. He +therefore left a note informing captain Lewis of his intention, +and then went up that stream on the north side for +about twenty-five miles. Here Chaboneau was unable to +proceed any further, and the party therefore encamped, all +of them much fatigued, their feet blistered and wounded by +the prickly pear.</p> + +<p>In the meantime we left our camp, and proceeded on +very well, though the water is still rapid and has some occasional +ripples. The country is much like that of yesterday: +there are however fewer islands, for we passed only +two. Behind one of them is a large creek twenty-five yards +wide, to which we gave the name of Gass's creek, from one +of our serjeants, Patrick Gass: it is formed by the union of +five streams, which descend from the mountains and join in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_321" id="Pg_321" title="Pg_321">[321]</a></span>the plain near the river. On this island we saw a large +brown bear, but he retreated to the shore and ran off before +we could approach him. These animals seem more shy +than they were below the mountains. The antelopes have +again collected in small herds, composed of several females +with their young, attended by one or two males, though +some of the males are still solitary or wander in parties +of two over the plains, which the antelope invariably prefers +to the woodlands, and to which it always retreats if by +accident it is found straggling in the hills, confiding no doubt +in its wonderful fleetness. We also killed a few young geese, +but as this game is small and very incompetent to the subsistence +of the party, we have forbidden the men any longer +to waste their ammunition on them. About four and a half +miles above Gass's creek, the valley in which we have been +travelling ceases, the high craggy cliffs again approach the +river, which now enters or rather leaves what appears to be +a second great chain of the Rocky mountains. About a +mile after entering these hills or low mountains we passed +a number of fine bold springs, which burst out near the edge +of the river under the cliffs on the left, and furnished a +fine freestone water: near these we met with two of the +worst rapids we have seen since entering the mountains; a +ridge of sharp pointed rocks stretching across the river, +leaving but small and dangerous channels for the navigation. +The cliffs are of a lighter colour than those we have +already passed, and in the bed of the river is some limestone +which is small and worn smooth, and seems to have +been brought down by the current. We went about a mile +further and encamped under a high bluff on the right opposite +to a cliff of rocks, having made sixteen miles.</p> + +<p>All these cliffs appeared to have been undermined by +the water at some period, and fallen down from the hills +on their sides, the stratas of rock sometimes lying with +their edges upwards, others not detached from the hills are +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_322" id="Pg_322" title="Pg_322">[322]</a></span>depressed obliquely on the side next the river as if they had +sunk to fill up the cavity formed by the washing of the river.</p> + +<p>In the open places among the rocky cliffs are two kinds +of gooseberry, one yellow and the other red. The former +species was observed for the first time near the falls, the +latter differs from it in no respect except in colour and in +being of a larger size; both have a sweet flavour, and are +rather indifferent fruit.</p> + +<p>Friday 26. We again found the current strong and the +ripples frequent: these we were obliged to overcome by +means of the cord and the pole, the oar being scarcely ever +used except in crossing to take advantage of the shore. +Within three and three quarter miles we passed seven +small islands and reached the mouth of a large creek which +empties itself in the centre of a bend on the left side: it is +a bold running stream fifteen yards wide, and received the +name of Howard creek after John P. Howard one of the +party. One mile beyond it is a small run which falls in on +the same side just above a rocky cliff. Here the mountains +recede from the river, and the valley widens to the extent +of several miles. The river now becomes crowded with +islands of which we passed ten in the next thirteen and +three quarter miles, then at the distance of eighteen miles +we encamped on the left shore near a rock in the centre of +a bend towards the left, and opposite to two more islands. +This valley has wide low grounds covered with high grass, +and in many with a fine turf of green sward. The soil of the +highlands is thin and meagre, without any covering except +a low sedge and a dry kind of grass which is almost as inconvenient +as the prickly pear. The seeds of it are armed +with a long twisted hard beard at their upper extremity, +while the lower part is a sharp firm point, beset at its base +with little stiff bristles, with the points in a direction contrary +to the subulate point to which they answer as a barb. +We see also another species of prickly pear. It is of a globular +form, composed of an assemblage of little conic leaves +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_323" id="Pg_323" title="Pg_323">[323]</a></span>springing from a common root to which their small points +are attached as a common centre, and the base of the cone +forms the apex of the leaf which is garnished with a circular +range of sharp thorns like the cochineal plant, and quite +as stiff and even more keen than those of the common +flat-leafed species. Between the hills the river had been +confined within one hundred and fifty or two hundred yards, +but in the valley it widens to two hundred or two hundred +and fifty yards, and sometimes is spread by its numerous +islands to the distance of three quarters of a mile. The +banks are low, but the river never overflows them. On entering +the valley we again saw the snow-clad mountains +before us, but the appearance of the hills as well as of the +timber near us is much as heretofore.</p> + +<p>Finding Chaboneau unable to proceed captain Clarke +left him with one of the men, and accompanied by the other +went up the river about twelve miles to the top of a mountain. +Here he had an extensive view of the river valley upwards +and saw a large creek which flowed in on the right +side. He however discovered no fresh sign of the Indians, +and therefore determined to examine the middle branch +and join us by the time we reached the forks: he descended +the mountain by an Indian path which wound through a +deep valley, and at length reached a fine cold spring. The +day had been very warm, the path unshaded by timber, and +his thirst was excessive; he was therefore tempted to drink: +but although he took the precaution of previously wetting +his head, feet and hands, he soon found himself very +unwell; he continued his route, and after resting with Chaboneau +at his camp, resumed his march across the north +fork near a large island. The first part was knee deep, but +on the other side of the island the water came to their +waists and was so rapid that Chaboneau was on the point +of being swept away, and not being able to swim would have +perished if captain Clarke had not rescued him. While +crossing the island they killed two brown bear and saw +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_324" id="Pg_324" title="Pg_324">[324]</a></span>great quantities of beaver. He then went on to a small +river which falls into the north fork some miles above its +junction with the two others: here, finding himself grow +more unwell, he halted for the night at the distance of four +miles from his last encampment.</p> + +<p>Saturday 27. We proceeded on but slowly, the current +being still so rapid as to require the utmost exertions of us +all to advance, and the men are losing their strength fast +in consequence of their constant efforts. At half a mile we +passed an island, and a mile and a quarter further again +entered a ridge of hills which now approach the river with +cliffs apparently sinking like those of yesterday. They are +composed of a solid limestone of a light lead colour when +exposed to the air, though when freshly broken it is of a +deep blue, and of an excellent quality and very fine grain. +On these cliffs were numbers of the bighorn. At two and +a half miles we reached the centre of a bend towards the +south passing a small island, and at one mile and a quarter +beyond this reached about nine in the morning the mouth +of a river seventy yards wide, which falls in from the southeast. +Here the country suddenly opens into extensive and +beautiful meadows and plains, surrounded on every side +with distant and lofty mountains. Captain Lewis went up +this stream for about half a mile, and from the height of a +limestone cliff could observe its course about seven miles, +and the three forks of the Missouri, of which this river is +one. Its extreme point bore S. 65° E. and during the seven +miles it passes through a green extensive meadow of fine +grass dividing itself into several streams, the largest passing +near the ridge of hills on which he stood. On the right side +of the Missouri a high, wide and extensive plain succeeds to +this low meadow which reaches the hills. In the meadow +a large spring rises about a quarter of a mile from this +Southeast fork, into which it discharges itself on the right +side about four hundred paces from where he stood. Between +the southeast and middle forks a distant range +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_325" id="Pg_325" title="Pg_325">[325]</a></span>of snow-topped mountains spread from east to south +above the irregular broken hills nearer to this spot: the +middle and southwest forks unite at half a mile above the +entrance of the southeast fork. The extreme point at which +the former can be seen, bears S. 15° E. and at the distance +of fourteen miles, where it turns to the right round the +point of a high plain and disappears from the view. Its low +grounds are several miles in width, forming a smooth and +beautiful green meadow, and like the southeast fork it divides +itself into several streams. Between these two forks +and near their junction with that from the southwest, is a +position admirably well calculated for a fort. It is a limestone +rock of an oblong form, rising from the plain perpendicularly +to the height of twenty-five feet on three of its +sides; the fourth towards the middle fork being a gradual +ascent and covered with a fine green sward, as is also the +top which is level and contains about two acres. An extensive +plain lies between the middle and southwest forks, the +last of which after watering a country like that of the +other two branches, disappears about twelve miles off, at a +point bearing south 30° west. It is also more divided and +serpentine in its course than the other two, and possesses +more timber in its meadows. This timber consists almost +exclusively of the narrow-leafed cottonwood, with an inter-mixture +of box alder and sweet-willow, the underbrush being +thick and like that of the Missouri lower down. A +range of high mountains partially covered with snow is seen +at a considerable distance running from south to west, and +nearly all around us are broken ridges of country like that +below, through which those united streams appear to have +forced their passage: after observing the country captain +Lewis descended to breakfast. We then left the mouth of +the southeast fork, to which in honour of the secretary of +the treasury we called Gallatin's river, and at the distance +of half a mile reached the confluence of the southwest and +middle branch of the Missouri. Here we found the letter +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_326" id="Pg_326" title="Pg_326">[326]</a></span>from captain Clarke, and as we agreed with him that the +direction of the southwest fork gave it a decided preference +over the others, we ascended that branch of the river for a +mile, and encamped in a level handsome plain on the left: +having advanced only seven miles. Here we resolved to +wait the return of captain Clarke, and in the meantime +make the necessary celestial observations, as this seems an +essential point in the geography of the western world, and +also to recruit the men and air the baggage. It was accordingly +all unloaded and stowed away on shore. Near +the three forks we saw many collections of the mud-nests +of the small martin attached to the smooth faces of the +limestone rock, where they were sheltered by projections +of the rock above it: and in the meadows were numbers of +the duck or mallard with their young, who are now nearly +grown. The hunters returned towards evening with six +deer, three otter and a muskrat; and had seen great numbers +of antelopes, and much sign of the beaver and elk.</p> + +<p>During all last night captain Clarke had a high fever +and chills accompanied with great pain. He however pursued +his route eight miles to the middle branch, where not +finding any fresh Indian track he came down it and joined +us about three o'clock, very much exhausted with fatigue +and the violence of his fever. Believing himself bilious he +took a dose of Rush's pills, which we have always found +sovereign in such cases, and bathing the lower extremities +in warm water.</p> + +<p>We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians. After +advancing for several hundred miles into this wild and +mountainous country, we may soon expect that the game +will abandon us. With no information of the route we may +be unable to find a passage across the mountains when we +reach the head of the river, at least such a one as will lead +us to the Columbia, and even were we so fortunate as to +find a branch of that river, the timber which we have hitherto +seen in these mountains does not promise us any fit to make +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_327" id="Pg_327" title="Pg_327">[327]</a></span>canoes, so that our chief dependence is on meeting some +tribe from whom we may procure horses. Our consolation +is, that this southwest branch can scarcely head with any +other river than the Columbia, and that if any nation of Indians +can live in the mountains we are able to endure as +much as they, and have even better means of procuring +subsistence.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_328" id="Pg_328" title="Pg_328">[328]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The name of the Missouri changed, as the river now divides itself into three +forks, one of which is called after Jefferson, the other Madison, and the other +after Gallatin—their general character—the party ascend the Jefferson +branch—description of the river Philosophy which enters into the Jefferson—captain +Lewis and a small party go in advance in search of the Shoshonees—description +of the country, &c. bordering on the river—captain Lewis still +preceding the main party in quest of the Shoshonees—a singular accident +which prevented captain Clarke from following captain Lewis's advice, and +ascending the middle fork of the river—description of Philanthropy river, +another stream running into the Jefferson—captain Lewis and a small party +having been unsuccessful in their first attempt, set off a second time in quest +of the Shoshonees.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>Sunday, July 28. Captain Clarke continued very unwell +during the night, but was somewhat relieved this morning. +On examining the two streams it became difficult to +decide which was the larger or the real Missouri; they are +each ninety yards wide and so perfectly similar in character +and appearance that they seem to have been formed in +the same mould. We were therefore induced to discontinue +the name of Missouri, and gave to the southwest branch +the name of Jefferson in honour of the president of the United +States, and the projector of the enterprise: and called +the middle branch Madison, after James Madison secretary +of state. These two, as well as Gallatin river, run with +great velocity and throw out large bodies of water. Gallatin +river is however the most rapid of the three, and though not +quite as deep, yet navigable for a considerable distance. +Madison river though much less rapid than the Gallatin, is +somewhat more rapid than the Jefferson; the beds of all of +them are formed of smooth pebble and gravel, and the +waters are perfectly transparent. The timber in the neighbourhood +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_329" id="Pg_329" title="Pg_329">[329]</a></span>would be sufficient for the ordinary uses of an establishment, +which, however, it would be adviseable to +build of brick, as the earth appears calculated for that purpose, +and along the shores are some bars of fine pure sand. +The greater part of the men, having yesterday put their +deer skins in water, were this day engaged in dressing +them, for the purpose of making clothing. The weather +was very warm, the thermometer in the afternoon was at +90° above 0, and the musquitoes more than usually inconvenient: +we were, however, relieved from them by a high +wind from the southwest, which came on at four o'clock, +bringing a storm of thunder and lightning, attended by refreshing +showers, which continued till after dark. In the +evening the hunters returned with eight deer and two elk; +and the party who had been sent up the Gallatin, reported +that after passing the point, where it escaped from <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'captian'.">captain</ins> +Lewis's view yesterday, it turned more towards the east, as +far as they could discern the opening of the mountains, +formed by the valley which bordered it. The low grounds +were still wide but not so extensive as near its mouth, and +though the stream is rapid and much divided by islands, it is +still sufficiently deep for navigation with canoes. The low +grounds, although not more than eight or nine feet above +the water, seem never to be overflowed, except a part on +the west side of the middle fork, which is stony and seems +occasionally inundated, are furnished with great quantities +of small fruit, such as currants and gooseberries: among +the last of which is a black species, which we observe not +only in the meadows but along the mountain rivulets. From +the same root rise a number of stems to the height of five +or six feet, some of them particularly branched and all reclining. +The berry is attached by a long peduncle to the +stem, from which they hang of a smooth ovate form, as +large as the common garden gooseberry, and as black as +jet, though the pulp is of a bright crimson colour. It is extremely +acid: the form of the leaf resembles that of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_330" id="Pg_330" title="Pg_330">[330]</a></span>common gooseberry, though larger. The stem is covered +with very sharp thorns or briars: the grass too is very luxuriant +and would yield fine hay in parcels of several acres. The +sand-rushes will grow in many places as high as a man's +breast, and as thick as stalks of wheat; it would supply the +best food during the winter to cattle of any trading or military +post.</p> + +<p>Sacajawea, our Indian woman, informs us that we are +encamped on the precise spot where her countrymen, the +Snake Indians, had their huts five years ago, when the +Minnetarees of Knife river first came in sight of them, and +from which they hastily retreated three miles up the Jefferson, +and concealed themselves in the woods. The Minnetarees, +however, pursued and attacked them, killed +four men, as many women, and a number of boys; and made +prisoners of four other boys, and all the females, of whom +Sacajawea was one: she does not, however, show any distress +at these recollections, nor any joy at the prospect of +being restored to her country; for she seems to possess the +folly or the philosophy of not suffering her feelings to extend +beyond the anxiety of having plenty to eat and a few +trinkets to wear.</p> + +<p>Monday 29. This morning the hunters brought in some +fat deer of the long-tailed red kind, which are quite as large +as those of the United States, and are, indeed, the only kind +we have found at this place: there are numbers of the sandhill +cranes feeding in the meadows; we caught a young one +of the same colour as the red deer, which, though it had +nearly attained its full growth could not fly; it is very fierce +and strikes a severe blow with its beak. The kingfisher +has become quite common on this side of the falls: but we +have seen none of the summer duck since leaving that +place. The mallard duck, which we saw for the first time +on the 20th instant, with their young, are now abundant, +though they do not breed on the Missouri, below the mountains. +The small birds already described are also abundant +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_331" id="Pg_331" title="Pg_331">[331]</a></span>in the plains; here too, are great quantities of grasshoppers +or crickets; and among other animals, a large ant +with a reddish brown body and legs, and a black head and +abdomen, who build little cones of gravel, ten or twelve +inches high, without a mixture of sticks, and but little +earth. In the river we see a great abundance of fish, but +we cannot tempt them to bite by any thing on our hooks. +The whole party have been engaged in dressing skins, and +making them into moccasins and leggings. Captain +Clarke's fever has almost left him, but he still remains +very languid and has a general soreness in his limbs. The +latitude of our camp, as the mean of two observations of +the meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb with octant +by back observation is N. 45° 24' 8" 5"'.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 30. Captain Clarke was this morning much +restored; and, therefore, having made all the observations +necessary to fix the longitude, we reloaded our canoes, and +began to ascend Jefferson river. The river now becomes +very crooked, and forms bends on each side; the current too +is rapid, and cut into a great number of channels, and sometimes +shoals, the beds of which consist of coarse gravel. +The islands are unusually numerous: on the right are high +plains occasionally forming cliffs of rocks and hills; while +the left was an extensive low ground and prairie intersected +by a number of bayous or channels falling into the river. +Captain Lewis, who had walked through it with Chaboneau, +his wife, and two invalids, joined us at dinner, a few miles +above our camp. Here the Indian woman said was the +place where she had been made prisoner. The men being +too few to contend with the Minnetarees, mounted their +horses, and fled as soon as the attack began. The women +and children dispersed, and Sacajawea as she was crossing +at a shoal place, was overtaken in the middle of the river +by her pursuers. As we proceeded, the low grounds were +covered with cottonwood and a thick underbrush, and on +both sides of the river, except where the high hills prevented +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_332" id="Pg_332" title="Pg_332">[332]</a></span>it, the ground was divided by bayous, which are +dammed up by the beaver, which are very numerous here. +We made twelve and a quarter miles, and encamped on +the north side. Captain Lewis proceeded after dinner, +through an extensive low ground of timber and meadow +land intermixed; but the bayous were so obstructed by +beaver dams, that in order to avoid them he directed his +course towards the high plain on the right. This he gained +with some difficulty, after wading up to his waist through +the mud and water of a number of beaver dams. When he +desired to rejoin the canoes he found the underbrush so +thick, and the river so crooked, that this, joined to the +difficulty of passing the beaver dams, induced him to go on +and endeavour to intercept the river at some point where it +might be more collected into one channel and approach +nearer to the high plain. He arrived at the bank about sunset, +having gone only six miles in a direct course from the +canoes: but he saw no traces of the men, nor did he receive +any answer to his shouts nor the firing of his gun. It was +now nearly dark; a duck lighted near him and he shot it. He +then went on the head of a small island where he found some +driftwood, which enabled him to cook his duck for supper, +and he laid down to sleep on some willow brush. The night +was cool, but the driftwood gave him a good fire, and he +suffered no inconvenience except from the mosquitoes.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 31. The next morning he waited till after +seven o'clock, when he became uneasy lest we should have +gone beyond his camp last evening and determined to follow +us. Just as he had set out with this intention, he saw one +of the party in advance of the canoes; although our camp +was only two miles below him, in a straight line, we could +not reach him sooner, in consequence of the rapidity of the +water and the circuitous course of the river. We halted for +breakfast, after which captain Lewis continued his route. +At the distance of one mile from our encampment we passed +the principal entrance of a stream on the left, which rises in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_333" id="Pg_333" title="Pg_333">[333]</a></span>the snowy mountains to the southwest, between Jefferson and +Madison rivers, and discharges itself by seven mouths, five +below, and one three miles above this, which is the largest, +and about thirty yards wide: we called it Philosophy river. +The water of it is abundant and perfectly clear, and the bed +like that of the Jefferson consists of pebble and gravel. +There is some timber in the bottoms of the river, and vast +numbers of otter and beaver, which build on its smaller +mouths and the bayous of its neighbourhood. The Jefferson +continues as yesterday, shoaly and rapid, but as the islands +though numerous are small, it is however more collected into +one current than it was below, and is from ninety to one +hundred and twenty yards in width. The low ground has a +fertile soil of rich black loam, and contains a considerable +quantity of timber, with the bullrush and cattail flag very +abundant in the moist parts, while the drier situations are +covered with fine grass, tansy, thistles, onions, and flax. The +uplands are barren, and without timber: the soil is a light +yellow clay intermixed with small smooth pebble and gravel, +and the only produce is the prickly-pear, the sedge, and +the bearded grass, which is as dry and inflammable as tinder. +As we proceeded the low grounds became narrower, and the +timber more scarce, till at the distance of ten miles the high +hills approach and overhang the river on both sides, forming +cliffs of a hard black granite, like almost all those below +the limestone cliffs at the three forks of the Missouri: they +continue so for a mile and three quarters, where we came +to a point of rock on the right side, at which place the hills +again retire, and the valley widens to the distance of a mile +and a half. Within the next five miles we passed four +islands, and reached the foot of a mountain in a bend of the +river to the left: from this place we went a mile and a quarter +to the entrance of a small run discharging itself on the +left, and encamped on an island just above it, after making +seventeen and three quarter miles. We observe some pine +on the hills on both sides of our encampment, which are very +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_334" id="Pg_334" title="Pg_334">[334]</a></span>lofty. The only game which we have seen are one bighorn, +a few antelopes, deer, and one brown bear, which escaped +from our pursuit. Nothing was, however, killed to-day, +nor have we had any fresh meat except one beaver for the +last two days, so that we are now reduced to an unusual +situation, for we have hitherto always had a great abundance +of flesh.</p> + +<p>Thursday, August 1. We left our encampment early, +and at the distance of a mile, reached a point of rocks on the +left side, where the river passes though perpendicular cliffs. +Two and three quarter miles further we halted for breakfast +under a cedar tree in a bend to the right: here as had +been previously arranged, captain Lewis left us, with sergeant +Gass, Chaboneau, and Drewyer, intending to go on in +advance in search of the Shoshonees. He began his route +along the north side of the river over a high range of mountains, +as captain Clarke who ascended them on the 26th had +observed from them a large valley spreading to the north +of west, and concluded that on leaving the mountain the +river took that direction; but when he reached that valley, +captain Lewis found it to be the passage of a large creek +falling just above the mountain into the Jefferson, which +bears to the southwest. On discovering his error, he bent +his course towards that river, which he reached about two +in the afternoon, very much exhausted with heat and thirst. +The mountains were very bare of timber, and the route lay +along the steep and narrow hollows of the mountain, exposed +to the mid-day sun, without air, or shade, or water. +Just as he arrived there a flock of elk passed, and they killed +two of them, on which they made their dinner, and left +the rest on the shore for the party in the canoes. After +dinner they resumed their march, and encamped on the north +side of the river, after making seventeen miles; in crossing +the mountains captain Lewis saw a flock of the black or dark +brown pheasant, of which he killed one. This bird is one +third larger than the common pheasant of the Atlantic States; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_335" id="Pg_335" title="Pg_335">[335]</a></span>its form is much the same. The male has not however the +tufts of long black feathers on the side of the neck so +conspicuous in the Atlantic pheasant, and both sexes are +booted nearly to the toes. The colour is a uniform dark +brown with a small mixture of yellow or yellowish brown +specks on some of the feathers, particularly those of the +tail, though the extremities of these are perfectly black +for about an inch. The eye is nearly black, and the iris +has a small dash of yellowish brown; the feathers of the +tail are somewhat longer than those of our pheasant, but +the same in number, eighteen, and nearly equal in size, except +that those of the middle are somewhat the longest; their +flesh is white and agreeably flavoured.</p> + +<p>He also saw among the scattered pine near the top of +the mountain, a blue bird about the size of a robin, but in +action and form something like a jay; it is constantly in motion, +hopping from spray to spray, and its note which is loud +and frequent, is, as far as letters can represent it, char ah! +char ah! char ah!</p> + +<p>After breakfast we proceeded on: at the distance of two +and a quarter miles the river enters a high mountain, which +forms rugged cliffs of nearly perpendicular rocks. These +are of a black granite at the lower part, and the upper consists +of a light coloured freestone; they continue from the +point of rocks close to the river for nine miles, which we +passed before breakfast, during which the current is very +strong. At nine and a quarter miles we passed an island, +and a rapid fall with a fall of six feet, and reached the entrance +of a large creek on the left side. In passing this place the +towline of one of the canoes broke just at the shoot of the +rapids, swung on the rocks and had nearly upset. To the +creek as well as the rapid we gave the name of Frazier, after +<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'Rober'.">Robert</ins> Frazier one of the party: here the country opens +into a beautiful valley from six to eight miles in width: the +river then becomes crooked and crowded with islands; its +lowgrounds wide and fertile, but though covered with fine +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_336" id="Pg_336" title="Pg_336">[336]</a></span>grass from nine inches to two feet high; possesses but a small +proportion of timber, and that consists almost entirely of a +few narrow-leafed cottonwood distributed along the verge of +the river. The soil of the plain is tolerably fertile, and consists +of a black or dark yellow loam. It gradually ascends on each +side to the bases of two ranges of high mountains which lie +<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'parrallel'.">parallel</ins> to the river; the tops of them are yet in part covered +with snow, and while in the valley we are nearly suffocated +with heat during the day, and at night the air is so +cold that two blankets are not more than sufficient covering. +In passing through the hills we observed some large +cedar trees, and some juniper also. From Frazier's creek +we went three and three quarter miles, and encamped on +the left side, having come thirteen miles. Directly opposite +our camp is a large creek which we call Field's creek, +from Reuben Fields, one of our men. Soon after we halted +two of the hunters went out and returned with five deer, +which, with one bighorn, we killed in coming through the +mountain on which we dined; and the elk left by captain +Lewis. We were again well supplied with fresh meat. In the +course of the day we saw a brown bear but were not able to +shoot him.</p> + +<p>Friday, August 2. Captain Lewis, who slept in the +valley a few miles above us, resumed his journey early, and +after making five miles and finding that the river still bore +to the south, determined to cross it in hopes of shortening +the route: for the first time therefore he waded across it, +although there are probably many places above the falls +where it might be attempted with equal safety. The river +was about ninety yards wide, the current rapid, and about +waist deep: the bottom formed of smooth pebble with a +small mixture of coarse gravel. He then continued along +the left bank of the river till sunset and encamped, after +travelling twenty-four miles. He met no fresh tracks of Indians. +Throughout the valley are scattered the bones and +excrement of the <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'buffalac'.">buffaloe</ins> of an old date, but there seems +no hope of meeting the animals themselves in the mountains: +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_337" id="Pg_337" title="Pg_337">[337]</a></span>he saw an abundance of deer and antelope, and many +tracks of elk and bear. Having killed two deer they feasted +sumptuously, with a desert of currants of different colours; +two species of red, others yellow, deep purple, and black: +to these were added black gooseberries and deep purple +serviceberries, somewhat larger than ours, from which it +differs also in colour, size, and the superior excellence of its +flavour. In the low grounds of the river were many beaver-dams +formed of willow brush, mud, and gravel, so closely +interwoven that they resist the water perfectly: some of +them were five feet high and overflowed several acres of land.</p> + +<p>In the meantime we proceeded on slowly, the current +being so strong as to require the utmost exertions of the +men to make any advance even with the aid of the cord and +pole, the wind being from the northwest. The river is full +of large and small islands, and the plain cut by great numbers +of bayous or channels, in which are multitudes of beaver. +In the course of the day we passed some villages of +barking squirrels: we saw several rattlesnakes in the plain; +young ducks, both of the duckon-mallard and red-headed +fishing duck species; some geese; also the black woodpecker, +and a large herd of elk. The channel, current, banks, +and general appearance of the river, are like that of yesterday. +At fourteen and three quarter miles we reached a +rapid creek or bayou about thirty yards wide, to which we +gave the name of Birth creek. After making seventeen +miles we halted in a smooth plain in a bend towards the left.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 3. Captain Lewis continued his course along +the river through the valley, which continued much as it +was yesterday, except that it now widens to nearly twelve +miles; the plains too are more broken and have some scattered +pine near the mountains, where they rise higher than +hitherto. In the level parts of the plains and the river bottoms +there is no timber except small cottonwood near the +margin, and an undergrowth of narrow-leafed willow, small +honeysuckle, rosebushes, currants, serviceberry, and gooseberry, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_338" id="Pg_338" title="Pg_338">[338]</a></span>and a little of a small species of birch; it is a finely +indented oval of a small size and a deep green colour; the +stem is simple, ascending and branching, and seldom rises +higher than ten or twelve feet. The mountains continue +high on each side of the valley, but their only covering is a +small species of pitch-pine with a short leaf, growing on the +lower and middle regions, while for some distance below +the snowy tops there is neither timber nor herbage of any +kind. About eleven o'clock Drewyer killed a doe on which +they breakfasted, and after resting two hours continued +till night, when they reached the river near a low ground +more extensive than usual. From the appearance of the +timber captain Lewis supposed that the river forked above +him, and therefore encamped with an intention of examining +it more particularly in the morning. He had now made +twenty-three miles, the latter part of which were for eight +miles through a high plain covered with prickly pears and +bearded grass, which rendered the walking very inconvenient: +but even this was better than the river bottoms we +crossed in the evening, which, though apparently level, +were formed into deep holes as if they had been rooted +up by hogs, and the holes were so covered with thick +grass that they were in danger of falling at every step. +Some parts of these low grounds, however, contain turf or +peat of an excellent quality for many feet deep apparently, +as well as the mineral salts which we have already mentioned +on the Missouri. They saw many deer, antelopes, ducks, +geese, some beaver, and great traces of their work, and the +small birds and curlews as usual. The only fish which they +observed in this part of the river is the trout and a species of +white fish, with a remarkably long small mouth, which one of +our men recognize as the fish called in the eastern states the +bottlenose.</p> + +<p>On setting out with the canoes we found the river as usual +much crowded with islands, the current more rapid as +well as shallower, so that in many places they were +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_339" id="Pg_339" title="Pg_339">[339]</a></span>obliged to man the canoes double, and drag them over the +stone and gravel of the channel. Soon after we set off captain +Clarke who was walking on shore observed a fresh track +which he knew to be that of an Indian from the large toes +being turned inwards, and on following it found that it led to +the point of a hill from which our camp of last night could +be seen. This circumstance strengthened the belief that some +Indian had strayed thither, and had run off alarmed at the +sight of us. At two and a quarter miles, is a small creek in a +bend towards the right, which runs down from the mountains +at a little distance; we called it Panther creek from an animal +of that kind killed by Reuben Fields at its mouth. +It is precisely the same animal common to the western parts +of the United States, and measured seven and a half feet from +the nose to the extremity of the tail. Six and three quarter +miles beyond this stream is another on the left formed by the +drains which convey the melted snows from a mountain near +it, under which the river passes, leaving the low grounds on +the right side, and making several bends in its course. On +this stream are many large beaver dams. One mile above it +is a small run on the left, and after leaving which begins a +very bad rapid, where the bed of the river is formed of solid +rock: this we passed in the course of a mile, and encamped +on the lower point of an island. Our journey had been +only thirteen miles, but the badness of the river made it very +laborious, as the men were compelled to be in the water during +the greater part of the day. We saw only deer, antelopes, +and the common birds of the country.</p> + +<p>Saturday 4. This morning captain Lewis proceeded early, +and after going southeast by east for four miles, reaching +a bold running creek, twelve yards wide, with clear cold +water, furnished apparently by four drains from the snowy +mountains on the left; after passing this creek he changed +his direction to southeast, and leaving the valley in which +he had travelled for the last two days, entered another +which bore east. At the distance of three miles on this +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_340" id="Pg_340" title="Pg_340">[340]</a></span>course he passed a handsome little river, about thirty yards +wide, which winds through the valley: the current is not +rapid nor the water very clear, but it affords a considerable +quantity of water, and appears as if it might be navigable +for some miles. The banks are low, and the bed formed +of stone and gravel. He now changed his route to +southwest, and passing a high plain which separates the +vallies, returned to the more southern or that which he +had left: in passing this he found a river about forty-five +yards wide, the water of which has a whitish blue tinge, +with a gentle current, and a gravelly bottom. This he +waded and found it waist deep. He then continued down +it, till at the distance of three quarters of a mile he saw the +entrance of the small river he had just passed; as he went +on two miles lower down, he found the mouth of the creek +he had seen in the morning. Proceeding further on three +miles, he arrived at the junction of this river, with another +which rises from the southwest, runs through the south valley +about twelve miles before it forms its junction, where +it is fifty yards wide: we now found that our camp of last +night was about a mile and a half above the entrance of +this large river, on the right side. This is a bold, rapid, +clear stream, but its bed is so much obstructed by gravelly +bars, and subdivided by islands, that the navigation must +be very insecure, if not impracticable. The other or middle +stream, has about two thirds its quantity of water, and +is more gentle, and may be safely navigated. As far as it +could be observed, its course was about southwest, but the +opening of the valley induced him to believe that farther +above it turned more towards the west. Its water is more +turbid and warmer than that of the other branch, whence +it may be presumed to have its sources at a greater distance +in the mountains, and to pass through a more open country. +Under this impression he left a note recommending +to captain Clarke the middle fork, and then continued his +course along the right side of the other, or more rapid +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_341" id="Pg_341" title="Pg_341">[341]</a></span>branch. After travelling twenty-three miles he +near a place where the river leaves the valley and enters +the mountain. Here he encamped for the night. The +country he passed is like that of the rest of this valley, +though there is more timber in this part on the rapid fork +than there has been on the river in the same extent since +we entered it; for on some parts of the valley the Indians +seem to have destroyed a great proportion of the little timber +there was, by setting fire to the bottoms. He saw some +antelopes, deer, cranes, geese and ducks of the two species +common to this country, though the summer duck has ceased +to appear, nor does it seem to be an inhabitant of this +part of the river.</p> + +<p>We proceeded soon after sunrise: the first five miles we +passed four bends on the left, and several bayous on both +sides. At eight o'clock we stopped to breakfast, and found the +note captain Lewis had written on the 2d instant. During the +next four miles, we passed three small bends of the river +to the right, two small islands, and two bayous on the same +side. Here we reached a bluff on the left; our next course +was six miles to our encampment. In this course we met +six circular bends on the right, and several small bayous, +and halted for the night in a low ground of cottonwood on +the right. Our days journey, though only fifteen miles in +length, was very fatiguing. The river is still rapid and +the water though clear is very much obstructed by shoals +or ripples at every two or three hundred yards: at all these +places we are obliged to drag the canoes over the stones as +there is not a sufficient depth of water to float them, and +in the other parts the current obliges us to have recourse +to the cord. But as the brushwood on the banks will not +permit us to walk on shore, we are under the necessity of +wading through the river as we drag the boats. This soon +makes our feet tender, and sometimes occasions severe falls +over the slippery stones; and the men by being constantly +wet are becoming more feeble. In the course of the day +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_342" id="Pg_342" title="Pg_342">[342]</a></span>the hunters killed two deer, some geese and ducks, and the +party saw antelopes, cranes, beaver and otter.</p> + +<p>Monday 5. This morning Chaboneau complained of being +unable to march far to-day, and captain Lewis therefore +ordered him and serjeant Gass to pass the rapid river +and proceed through the level low ground, to a point of +high timber on the middle fork, seven miles distant, and +wait his return. He then went along the north side of the +rapid river about four miles, where he waded it, and found +it so rapid and shallow that it would be impossible to navigate +it. He continued along the left side for a mile and +a half, when the mountains came close on the river, and +rise to a considerable height with a partial covering of +snow. From this place the course of the river was to the +east of north. After ascending with some difficulty a high +point of the mountain, he had a pleasing view of the valley +he had passed, and which continued for about twenty miles +further on each side of the middle fork, which then seemed +to enter the mountains, and was lost to the view. In that +direction, however, the hills which terminate the valley are +much lower than those along either of the other forks, particularly +the rapid one, where they continue rising in +ranges above each other us far as the eye could reach. +The general course too of the middle fork, as well as that +of the gap which it forms on entering the mountains, is considerably +to the south of west; circumstances which gave +a decided preference to this branch as our future route. +Captain Lewis now descended the mountain, and crossed +over to the middle fork, about five miles distant, and found +it still perfectly navigable. There is a very large and plain +Indian road leading up it, but it has at present no tracks, +except those of horses which seem to have used it last +spring. The river here made a great bend to the southeast, +and he therefore directed his course, as well as he +could, to the spot where he had directed Chaboneau and +Gass to repair, and struck the river about three miles above +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_343" id="Pg_343" title="Pg_343">[343]</a></span>their camp. It was now dark, and he, therefore, was +obliged to make his way through the thick brush of the +pulpy-leafed thorn and the prickly pear, for two hours before +he reached their camp. Here he was fortunate enough +to find the remains of some meat, which was his only food +during the march of twenty-five miles to-day. He had seen +no game of any sort except a few antelopes who were very +shy. The soil of the plains is a meagre clay, of a light +yellow colour, intermixed with a large proportion of gravel, +and producing nothing but twisted or bearded grass, sedge +and prickly pears. The drier parts of the low grounds are +also more indifferent in point of soil than those further +down the river, and although they have but little grass, are +covered with southern wood, pulpy-leafed thorn, and prickly +pears, while the moist parts are fertile, and supplied with +fine grass and sandrushes.</p> + +<p>We passed within the first four and a quarter miles three +small islands, and the same number of bad rapids. At the +distance of three quarters of a mile is another rapid of difficult +passage: three miles and three quarters beyond this +are the forks of the river, in reaching which we had two +islands and several bayous on different sides to pass. +Here we had come nine miles and a quarter. The river was +straighter and more rapid than yesterday, the labour of the +navigation proportionally increased, and we therefore proceeded +very slowly, as the feet of several of the men were +swollen, and all were languid with fatigue. We arrived at +the forks about four o'clock, but unluckily captain Lewis's +note had been left on a green pole which the beaver had cut +down and carried off with the note, an accident which deprived +us of all information as to the character of the two +branches of the river. Observing therefore that the northwest +fork was most in our direction, and contained as much +water as the other, we ascended it; we found it extremely +rapid, and its waters were scattered in such a manner, that +for a quarter of a mile we were forced to cut a passage +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_344" id="Pg_344" title="Pg_344">[344]</a></span>through the willowbrush that leaned over the little channels +and united at the top. After going up it for a mile we +encamped on an island which had been overflowed, and was +still so wet that we were compelled to make beds of brush +to keep ourselves out of the mud. Our provision consisted +of two deer which had been killed in the morning.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 6. We proceeded up the northwest fork, which +we found still very rapid, and divided by several islands, +while the plains near it were intersected by bayous. After +passing with much difficulty over stones and rapids, we reached +a bluff on the right, at the distance of nine miles, our +general course south 30° west, and halted for breakfast. +Here we were joined by Drewyer, who informed us of the +state of the two rivers and of captain Lewis's note, and we +immediately began to descend the river in order to take the +other branch. On going down one of the canoes upset, and +two others filled with water, by which all the baggage was +wet, and several articles irrecoverably lost. As one of them +swung round in a rapid current, Whitehouse was thrown out +of her, and whilst down the canoe passed over him, and had +the water been two inches shallower would have crushed +him to pieces; but he escaped with a severe bruise of his +leg. In order to repair these misfortunes we hastened +to the forks, where we were joined by captain Lewis, +and then passed over to the left side opposite to the entrance +of the rapid fork, and encamped on a large gravelly +bar, near which there was plenty of wood. Here we opened +and exposed to dry all the articles which had suffered +from the water; none of them were completely spoiled except +a small keg of powder; the rest of the powder, which was +distributed in the different canoes was quite safe, although +it had been under the water upwards of an hour. The air is +indeed so pure and dry that any wood-work immediately +shrinks, unless it is kept filled with water; but we had planned +our powder in small canisters of lead, each containing +powder enough for the canister when melted into bullets, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_345" id="Pg_345" title="Pg_345">[345]</a></span>and smeared with cork and wax, which answered our purpose +perfectly.</p> + +<p>Captain Lewis had risen very early, and having nothing +to eat, sent out Drewyer to the woodland on the left in search +of a deer, and directed sergeant Gass to keep along the middle +branch to meet us if we were ascending it. He then set +off with Chaboneau towards the forks, but five miles above +them, hearing us on the left, struck the river as we were descending, +and came on board at the forks.</p> + +<p>In the evening we killed three deer and four elk, which +furnished us once more with a plentiful supply of meat. Shannon, +the same man who was lost before for fifteen days, was +sent out this morning to hunt, up the northwest fork; when +we decided on returning, Drewyer was directed to go in quest +of him, but he returned with information that he had gone +several miles up the river without being able to find Shannon. +We now had the trumpet sounded, and fired several +guns, but he did not return, and we fear he is again lost.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 7. We remained here this morning for the +purpose of making some celestial observations, and also in +order to refresh the men, and complete the drying of the +baggage. We obtained a meridian altitude which gave the +latitude of our camp at north 45° 2' 48" 8"'. We were now +completely satisfied that the middle branch was the most +navigable, and the true continuation of the Jefferson. The +northwest fork seems to be the drain of the melting snows +of the mountains, its course cannot be so long as the other +branch, and although it contains now as great a quantity of +water, yet the water has obviously overflowed the old bed, +and spread into channels which leave the low grounds covered +with young grass, resembling that of the adjoining lands, +which are not inundated; whence we readily infer that the +supply is more precarious than that of the other branch, the +waters of which though more gentle are more constant. This +northwest fork we called Wisdom river.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_346" id="Pg_346" title="Pg_346">[346]</a></span>As soon as the baggage was dried, it was reloaded on +board the boats, but we now found it so much diminished, +that we would we able to proceed with one canoe less. We +therefore hauled up the superfluous one into a thicket of +brush where we secured her against being swept away by +the high tide. At one o'clock all set out, except captain +Lewis who remained till the evening in order to complete the +observation of equal altitudes: we passed several bends of +the river both to the right and left, as well as a number of +bayous on both sides, and made seven miles by water, though +the distance by land is only three. We then encamped on a +creek which rises in a high mountain to the northeast, and +after passing through an open plain for several miles, discharges +itself on the left, where it is a bold running stream +twelve yards wide. We called it Turf creek, from the number +of bogs and the quantity of turf on its waters. In the +course of the afternoon there fell a shower of rain attended +with thunder and lightning, which lasted about forty minutes, +and the weather remained so cloudy all night that we were +unable to take any lunar observations. Uneasy about Shannon, +we sent R. Fields in search of him this morning, but +we have as yet no intelligence of either of them. Our only +game to-day was one deer.</p> + +<p>Thursday 8. There was a heavy dew this morning. Having +left one of the canoes, there are now more men to spare for +the chace; and four were sent out at an early hour, after +which we proceeded. We made five miles by water along +two islands and several bayous, but as the river formed seven +different bends towards the left, the distance by land was only +two miles south of our encampment. At the end of that +course we reached the upper principal entrance of a stream +which we called Philanthropy river. This river empties itself +into the Jefferson on the southeast side, by two channels +a short distance from each other: from its size and its southeastern +course, we presume that it rises in the Rocky mountains +near the sources of the Madison. It is thirty yards +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_347" id="Pg_347" title="Pg_347">[347]</a></span>wide at its entrance, has a very gentle current, and is navigable +for some distance. One mile above this river we passed +an island, a second at the distance of six miles further, +during which the river makes a considerable bend to the east. +Reuben Fields returned about noon with information that he +had gone up Wisdom river till its entrance into the mountains, +but could find nothing of Shannon. We made seven miles beyond +the last island, and after passing some small bayous, encamped +under a few high trees on the left, at the distance of +fourteen miles above Philanthropy river by water, though only +six by land. The river has in fact become so very crooked +that although by means of the pole which we now use constantly +we make a considerable distance, yet being obliged to follow +its windings, at the end of the day, we find ourselves very little +advanced on our general course. It forms itself into small +circular bends, which are so numerous that within the last +fourteen miles we passed thirty-five of them, all inclining +towards the right; it is however much more gentle and +deep than below Wisdom river, and its general width is from +thirty-five to forty-five yards. The general appearance of +the surrounding country is that of a valley five or six miles +wide, enclosed between two high mountains. The bottom +is rich, with some small timber on the islands and along the +river, which consists rather of underbrush, and a few cottonwood, +birch, and willow-trees. The high grounds have +some scattered pine, which just relieve the general nakedness +of the hills and the plain, where there is nothing except +grass. Along the bottoms we saw to-day a considerable +quantity of the buffaloe clover, the sunflower, flax, green +sward, thistle and several species of rye grass, some of which +rise to the height of three or four feet. There is also a grass +with a soft smooth leaf which rises about three feet high, and +bears its seed very much like the timothy, but it does not +grow luxuriantly nor would it apparently answer so well in +our meadows as that plant. We preserved some of its seed, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_348" id="Pg_348" title="Pg_348">[348]</a></span>which are now ripe, in order to make the experiment. Our +game consisted of deer and antelope, and we saw a number +of geese and ducks just beginning to fly, and some cranes. +Among the inferior animals we have an abundance of the +large biting or hare fly, of which there are two species, one +black, the other smaller and brown, except the head which +is green. The green or blowing flies unite with them in +swarms to attack us, and seem to have relieved the eye-gnats +who have now disappeared. The musquitoes too are in large +quantities, but not so troublesome as they were below. +Through the valley are scattered bogs, and some very good +turf, the earth of which the mud is composed is of a white +or bluish white colour, and seems to be argilaceous. On all +the three rivers, but particularly on the Philanthropy, are +immense quantities of beaver, otter and muskrat. At our camp +there was an abundance of rosebushes and briars, but so little +timber that we were obliged to use willow brush for fuel. +The night was again cloudy which prevented the lunar observations.</p> + +<p>On our right is the point of a high plain, which our Indian +woman recognizes as the place called the Beaver's-head +from a supposed resemblance to that object. This she says +is not far from the summer retreat of her countrymen, which +is on a river beyond the mountains, and running to the west. +She is therefore certain that we shall meet them either on +this river, or on that immediately west of its source, which +judging from its present size, cannot be far distant. Persuaded +of the absolute necessity of procuring horses to cross the +mountains, it was determined that one of us should proceed in +the morning to the head of the river, and penetrate the mountains +till he found the Shoshonees or some other nation who +could assist us in transporting our baggage, the greater part of +which we shall be compelled to leave without the aid of horses.</p> + +<p>Friday 9. The morning was fair and fine. We set off +early, and proceeded on very well, though there were more +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_349" id="Pg_349" title="Pg_349">[349]</a></span>rapids in the river than yesterday. At eight o'clock we halted +for breakfast, part of which consisted of two fine geese killed +before we stopped. Here we were joined by Shannon for whose +safety we had been so uneasy. The day on which he left us +on his way up Wisdom river, after hunting for some time and +not seeing the party arrive, he returned to the place where +he had left us. Not finding us there he supposed we had passed +him, and he therefore marched up the river during all +the next day, when he was convinced that we had not gone +on, as the river was no longer navigable. He now followed +the course of the river down to the forks, and then took the +branch which we are pursuing. During the three days of his +absence, he had been much wearied with his march, but had +lived plentifully, and brought the skins of three deer. As far +as he had ascended Wisdom river it kept its course obliquely +down towards the Jefferson. Immediately after breakfast, +captain Lewis took Drewyer, Shields and M‘Neal, and slinging +their knapsacks they set out with a resolution to meet +some nation of Indians before they returned, however long +they might be separated from the party. He directed his +course across the low ground to the plain on the right, leaving +the Beaver's-head about two miles to the left. After +walking eight miles to the river, which they waded, they went +on to a commanding point from which he saw the place +at which it enters the mountain, but as the distance +would not permit his reaching it this evening, he descended +towards the river, and after travelling eight miles +further, encamped for the evening some miles below the +mountain. They passed before reaching their camp a handsome +little stream formed by some large springs which +rise in the wide bottom on the left side of the river. In +their way they killed two antelopes, and took with them +enough of the meat for their supper and breakfast the +next morning.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_350" id="Pg_350" title="Pg_350">[350]</a></span>In the meantime we proceeded, and in the course of eleven +miles from our last encampment passed two small islands, +sixteen short round bends in the river, and halted in a bend +towards the right where we dined. The river increases in +rapidity as we advance, and is so crooked that the eleven +miles, which have cost us so much labour, only bring us four +miles in a direct line. The weather became overcast towards +evening, and we experienced a slight shower attended +with thunder and lightning. The three hunters who were +sent out killed only two antelopes; game of every kind being +scarce.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 10. Captain Lewis continued his route at an +early hour through the wide bottom along the left bank of +the river. At about five miles he passed a large creek, +and then fell into an Indian road leading towards the point +where the river entered the mountain. This he followed +till he reached a high perpendicular cliff of rocks where the +river makes its passage through the hills, and which he +called the Rattlesnake cliff, from the number of that animal +which he saw there: here he kindled a fire and waited +the return of Drewyer, who had been sent out on the way +to kill a deer: he came back about noon with the skin of +three deer and the flesh of one of the best of them. After a +hasty dinner they returned to the Indian road which they +had left for a short distance to see the cliff. It led them +sometimes over the hills, sometimes in the narrow bottoms +of the river, till at the distance of fifteen miles from the +Rattlesnake cliffs they reached a handsome open and level +valley, where the river divided into two nearly equal branches. +The mountains over which they passed were not very +high, but are rugged and continue close to the river side. +The river, which before it enters the mountain was rapid, +rocky, very crooked, much divided by islands, and shallow, +now becomes more direct in its course as it is hemmed in by +the hills, and has not so many bends nor islands, but becomes +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_351" id="Pg_351" title="Pg_351">[351]</a></span>more rapid and rocky, and continues as shallow. On +examining the two branches of the river it was evident that +neither of them was navigable further. The road forked +with the river; and captain Lewis therefore sent a man up +each of them for a short distance, in order that by comparing +their respective information he might be able to take +that which seemed to have been most used this spring. +From their account he resolved to choose that which led +along the southwest branch of the river which was rather +the smaller of the two: he accordingly wrote a note to captain +Clarke informing him of the route, and recommending +his staying with the party at the forks till he should return: +This he fixed on a dry willow pole at the forks of the river, +and then proceeded up the southwest branch; but after +going a mile and a half the road became scarcely distinguishable, +and the tracks of the horses which he had followed +along the Jefferson were no longer seen. Captain +Lewis therefore returned to examine the other road himself, +and found that the horses had in fact passed along +the western or right fork which had the additional recommendation +of being larger than the other.</p> + +<p>This road he concluded to take, and therefore sent back +Drewyer to the forks with a second letter to captain Clarke +apprising him of the change, and then proceeded on. The +valley of the west fork through which he now passed, bears +a little to the north of west, and is confined within the space +of about a mile in width, by rough mountains and steep +cliffs of rock. At the distance of four and a half miles it +opens into a beautiful and extensive plain about ten miles +long and five or six in width: this is surrounded on all sides +by higher rolling or waving country, intersected by several +little rivulets from the mountains, each bordered by its wide +meadows. The whole prospect is bounded by these mountains, +which nearly surround it, so as to form a beautiful +cove about sixteen or eighteen miles in diameter. On entering +this cove the river bends to the northwest, and bathes +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_352" id="Pg_352" title="Pg_352">[352]</a></span>the foot of the hills to the right. At this place they halted +for the night on the right side of the river, and having +lighted a fire of dry willow brush, the only fuel which the +country affords, supped on a deer. They had travelled to-day +thirty miles by estimate: that is ten to the Rattlesnake +cliff, fifteen to the forks of Jefferson river, and five to their +encampment. In this cove some parts of the low grounds are +tolerably fertile, but much the greater proportion is covered +with prickly pear, sedge, twisted grass, the pulpy-leafed +thorn, southern-wood, and wild sage, and like the uplands +have a very inferior soil. These last have little more than +the prickly pear and the twisted or bearded grass, nor are +there in the whole cove more than three or four cottonwood +trees, and those are small. At the apparent extremity +of the bottom above, and about ten miles to the westward, +are two perpendicular cliffs rising to a considerable +height on each side of the river, and at this distance seem +like a gate. In the meantime we proceeded at sunrise, +and found the river not so rapid as yesterday, though more +narrow and still very crooked, and so shallow that we were +obliged to drag the canoes over many ripples in the course +of the day. At six and a half miles we had passed eight +bends on the north, and two small bayous on the left, and +came to what the Indians call the Beaver's-head, a steep +rocky cliff about one hundred and fifty feet high, near the +right side of the river. Opposite to this at three hundred +yards from the water is a low cliff about fifty feet in height, +which forms the extremity of a spur of the mountain about +four miles distant on the left. At four o'clock we were overtaken +by a heavy shower of rain, attended with thunder, +lightning and hail. The party were defended from the hail +by covering themselves with willow bushes, but they got completely +wet, and in this situation, as soon as the rain ceased, +continued till we encamped. This we did at a low bluff +on the left, after passing in the course of six and a half +miles, four islands and eighteen bends on the right, and a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_353" id="Pg_353" title="Pg_353">[353]</a></span>low bluff and several bayous on the same side. We had now +come thirteen miles, yet were only four on our route towards +the mountains. The game seems to be declining, for +our hunters procured only a single deer, though we found +another for us that had been killed three days before by +one of the hunters during an excursion, and left for us on +the river.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_354" id="Pg_354" title="Pg_354">[354]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Captain Lewis proceeds before the main body in search of the Shoshonees—his +ill success on the first interview—the party with captain Lewis at length +discover the source of the Missouri—captain Clarke with the main body still +employed in ascending the Missouri or Jefferson river—captain Lewis's second +interview with the Shoshonees attended with success—the interesting +ceremonies of his first introduction to the natives, detailed at large—their +hospitality—their mode of hunting the antelope—the difficulties encountered by +captain Clarke and the main body in ascending the river—the suspicions entertained +of captain Lewis by the Shoshonees, and his mode of allaying +them—the ravenous appetites of the savages illustrated by a singular +adventure—the Indians still jealous, and the great pains taken by captain Lewis to +preserve their confidence—captain Clarke arrives with the main body +exhausted by the difficulties which they underwent.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>Sunday, August 11. Captain Lewis again proceeded +on early, but had the mortification to find that the track +which he followed yesterday soon disappeared. He determined +therefore to go on to the narrow gate or pass of the +river which he had seen from the camp, in hopes of being +able to recover the Indian path. For this purpose he +waded across the river, which was now about twelve yards +wide, and barred in several places by the dams of the beaver, +and then went straight forward to the pass, sending one +man along the river to his left, and another on the right, +with orders to search for the road, and if they found it to +let him know by raising a hat on the muzzle of their guns. +In this order they went along for about five miles, when +captain Lewis perceived with the greatest delight a man +on horseback at the distance of two miles coming down the +plain towards them. On examining him with the glass, +captain Lewis saw that he was of a different nation from +any Indians we had hitherto met: he was armed with a bow +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_355" id="Pg_355" title="Pg_355">[355]</a></span>and a quiver of arrows; mounted on an elegant horse without +a saddle, and a small string attached to the under jaw +answered as a bridle. Convinced that he was a Shoshonee, +and knowing how much of our success depended on the +friendly offices of that nation, captain Lewis was full of +anxiety to approach without alarming him, and endeavour +to convince him that he was a white man. He therefore, +proceeded on towards the Indian at his usual pace, when +they were within a mile of each other the Indian suddenly +stopt, captain Lewis immediately followed his example, +took his blanket from his knapsack, and holding it with +both hands at the two corners, threw it above his head and +unfolded it as he brought it to the ground as if in the act +of spreading it. This signal which originates in the practice +of spreading a robe or a skin, as a seat for guests to +whom they wish to show a distinguished kindness, is the +universal sign of friendship among the Indians on the Missouri +and the Rocky mountains. As usual, captain Lewis +repeated this signal three times: still the Indian kept his +position, and looked with an air of suspicion on Drewyer +and Shields who were now advancing on each side. Captain +Lewis was afraid to make any signal for them to halt, +lest he should increase the suspicions of the Indian, who +began to be uneasy, and they too distant to hear his +voice. He, therefore, took from his pack some beads, a +looking-glass and a few trinkets, which he had brought for +the purpose, and leaving his gun advanced unarmed towards +the Indian. He remained in the same position till captain +Lewis came within two hundred yards of him, when he +turned his horse, and began to move off slowly; captain +Lewis then called out to him, in as loud a voice as he could, +repeating the word, tabba bone! which in the Shoshonee +language means white man; but looking over his shoulder +the Indian kept his eyes on Drewyer and Shields, who were +still advancing, without recollecting the impropriety of doing +so at such a moment, till captain Lewis made a signal +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_356" id="Pg_356" title="Pg_356">[356]</a></span>to them to halt; this Drewyer obeyed, but Shields did not +observe it, and still went forward: seeing Drewyer halt the +Indian turned his horse about as if to wait for captain +Lewis who now reached within one hundred and fifty paces, +repeating the word tabba bone, and holding up the trinkets +in his hand, at the same time stripping up the sleeve of his +shirt to show the colour of his skin. The Indian suffered +him to advance within one hundred paces, then suddenly +turned his horse, and giving him the whip, leaped across +the creek, and disappeared in an instant among the willow +bushes: with him vanished all the hopes which the sight of +him had inspired of a friendly introduction to his countrymen. +Though sadly disappointed by the imprudence of his +two men, captain Lewis determined to make the incident +of some use, and therefore calling the men to him they all +set off after the track of the horse, which they hoped might +lead them to the camp of the Indian who had fled, or if he +had given the alarm to any small party, their track might +conduct them to the body of the nation. They now fixed +a small flag of the United States on a pole, which was +carried by one of the men as a signal of their friendly intentions, +should the Indians observe them as they were advancing. +The route lay across an island formed by a nearly +equal division of the creek in the bottom: after reaching +the open grounds on the right side of the creek, the track +turned towards some high hills about three miles distant. +Presuming that the Indian camp might be among these +hills, and that by advancing hastily he might be seen and +alarm them, captain Lewis sought an elevated situation +near the creek, had a fire made of willow brush, and took +breakfast. At the same time he prepared a small assortment +of beads, trinkets, awls, some paint and a looking +glass, and placed them on a pole near the fire, in order +that if the Indians returned they might discover that +the party were white men and friends. Whilst making +these preparations a very heavy shower of rain and hail +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_357" id="Pg_357" title="Pg_357">[357]</a></span>came on, and wet them to the skin: in about twenty minutes +it was over, and captain Lewis then renewed his pursuit, +but as the rain had made the grass which the horse +had trodden down rise again, his track could with difficulty +be distinguished. As they went along they passed several +places where the Indians seemed to have been digging +roots to-day, and saw the fresh track of eight or ten horses, +but they had been wandering about in so confused a +manner that he could not discern any particular path, +and at last, after pursuing it about four miles along the +valley to the left under the foot of the hills, he lost the +track of the fugitive Indian. Near the head of the valley +they had passed a large bog covered with moss and +tall grass, among which were several springs of pure +cold water: they now turned a little to the left along the +foot of the high hills, and reached a small creek where +they encamped for the night, having made about twenty +miles, though not more than ten in a direct line from their +camp of last evening.</p> + +<p>The morning being rainy and wet we did not set out +with the canoes till after an early breakfast. During the +first three miles we passed three small islands, six bayous +on different sides of the river, and the same number of +bends towards the right. Here we reached the lower +point of a large island which we called Three-thousand-mile +island, on account of its being at that distance from +the mouth of the Missouri. It is three miles and a half +in length, and as we coasted along it we passed several +small bends of the river towards the left, and two bayous +on the same side. After leaving the upper point of +Three-thousand-mile island, we followed the main channel +on the left side, which led us by three small islands +and several small bayous, and fifteen bends towards the +right. Then at the distance of seven miles and a half +we encamped on the upper end of a large island near +the right. The river was shallow and rapid, so that we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_358" id="Pg_358" title="Pg_358">[358]</a></span>were obliged to be in the water during a great part of +the day, dragging the canoes over the shoals and ripples. +Its course too was so crooked, that notwithstanding we +had made fourteen miles by water, we were only five +miles from our encampment of last night. The country +consists of a low ground on the river about five miles +wide, and succeeded on both sides by plains of the same +extent which reach to the base of the mountains. These +low grounds are very much intersected by bayous, and in +those on the left side is a large proportion of bog covered +with tall grass, which would yield a fine turf. There are +very few trees, and those small narrow-leafed cottonwood: +the principal growth being the narrow-leafed willow, +and currant bushes, among which were some bunches +of privy near the river. We saw a number of geese, +ducks, beaver, otter, deer and antelopes, of all which +one beaver was killed with a pole from the boat, three +otters with a tomahawk, and the hunters brought in three +deer and an antelope.</p> + +<p>Monday, 12. This morning as soon as it was light captain +Lewis sent Drewyer to reconnoitre if possible the route +of the Indians: in about an hour and a half he returned, +after following the tracks of the horse which we had lost +yesterday to the mountains, where they ascended and were +no longer visible. Captain Lewis now decided on making +the circuit along the foot of the mountains which +formed the cove, expecting by that means to find a road +across them, and accordingly sent Drewyer on one side, +and Shields on the other. In this way they crossed four +small rivulets near each other, on which were some bowers +or conical lodges of willow brush, which seemed to have +been made recently. From the manner in which the ground +in the neighbourhood was torn up the Indians appeared to +have been gathering roots; but captain Lewis could not discover +what particular plant they were searching for, nor +could he find any fresh track, till at the distance of four +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_359" id="Pg_359" title="Pg_359">[359]</a></span>miles from his camp he met a large plain Indian road which +came into the cove from the northeast, and wound along +the foot of the mountains to the southwest, approaching +obliquely the main stream he had left yesterday. Down this +road he now went towards the southwest: at the distance +of five miles it crossed a large run or creek, which is a principal +branch of the main stream into which it falls, just +above the high cliffs or gates observed yesterday, and which +they now saw below them: here they halted and breakfasted +on the last of the deer, keeping a small piece of pork in +reserve against accident: they then continued through the +low bottom along the main stream near the foot of the mountains +on their right. For the first five miles the valley continues +towards the southwest from two to three miles in +width; then the main stream, which had received two small +branches from the left in the valley, turns abruptly to the +west through a narrow bottom between the mountains. +The road was still plain, and as it led them directly on towards +the mountain the stream gradually became smaller, +till after going two miles it had so greatly diminished in +width that one of the men in a fit of enthusiasm, with one +foot on each side of the river, thanked God that he had +lived to bestride the Missouri. As they went along their hopes +of soon seeing the waters of the Columbia arose almost to +painful anxiety, when after four miles from the last abrupt +turn of the river, they reached a small gap formed by the +high mountains which recede on each side, leaving room for +the Indian road. From the foot of one of the lowest of these +mountains, which rises with a gentle ascent of about half a +mile, issues the remotest water of the Missouri. They had +now reached the hidden sources of that river, which had +never yet been seen by civilized man; and as they quenched +their thirst at the chaste and icy fountain—as they sat down +by the brink of that little rivulet, which yielded its distant +and modest tribute to the parent ocean, they felt themselves +rewarded for all their labours and all their difficulties. They +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_360" id="Pg_360" title="Pg_360">[360]</a></span>left reluctantly this interesting spot, and pursuing the Indian +road through the interval of the hills, arrived at the +top of a ridge, from which they saw high mountains partially +covered with snow still to the west of them. The +ridge on which they stood formed the dividing line between +the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. They followed +a descent much steeper than that on the eastern side, +and at the distance of three quarters of a mile reached a +handsome bold creek of cold clear water running to the +westward. They stopped to taste for the first time the waters +of the Columbia; and after a few minutes followed the +road across steep hills and low hollows, till they reached a +spring on the side of a mountain: here they found a sufficient +quantity of dry willow brush for fuel, and therefore +halted for the night; and having killed nothing in the course +of the day supped on their last piece of pork, and trusted to +fortune for some other food to mix with a little flour and +parched meal, which was all that now remained of their +provisions. Before reaching the fountain of the Missouri +they saw several large hawks nearly black, and some of the +heath cocks: these last have a long pointed tail, and are of +a uniform dark brown colour, much larger than the common +dunghill fowl, and similar in habits and the mode of +flying to the grouse or prairie hen. Drewyer also wounded +at the distance of one hundred and thirty yards an animal +which we had not yet seen, but which after falling recovered +itself and escaped. It seemed to be of the fox kind, +rather larger than the small wolf of the plains, and with a +skin in which black, reddish brown, and yellow, were curiously +intermixed. On the creek of the Columbia they +found a species of currant which does not grow as high as +that of the Missouri, though it is more branching, and its +leaf, the under disk of which is covered with a hairy pubescence, +is twice as large. The fruit is of the ordinary size +and shape of the currant, and supported in the usual manner, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_361" id="Pg_361" title="Pg_361">[361]</a></span>but is of a deep purple colour, acid, and of a very inferior +flavour.</p> + +<p>We proceeded on in the boats, but as the river was very +shallow and rapid, the navigation is extremely difficult, and +the men who are almost constantly in the water are getting +feeble and sore, and so much wore down by fatigue that +they are very anxious to commence travelling by land. We +went along the main channel which is on the right side, and +after passing nine bends in that direction, three islands and +a number of bayous, reached at the distance of five and a +half miles the upper point of a large island. At noon there +was a storm of thunder which continued about half an hour; +after which we proceeded, but as it was necessary to drag +the canoes over the shoals and rapids, made but little progress. +On leaving the island we passed a number of short +bends, several bayous, and one run of water on the right +side, and having gone by four small and two large islands, +encamped on a smooth plain to the left near a few cottonwood +trees: our journey by water was just twelve miles, +and four in a direct line. The hunters supplied us with +three deer and a fawn.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 13. Very early in the morning captain Lewis +resumed the Indian road, which led him in a western direction, +through an open broken country; on the left was a deep +valley at the foot of a high range of mountains running from +southeast to northwest, with their sides better clad with +timber than the hills to which we have been for some time +accustomed, and their tops covered in part with snow. At +five miles distance, after following the long descent of another +valley, he reached a creek about ten yards wide, and on +rising the hill beyond it had a view of a handsome little valley +on the left, about a mile in width, through which they +judged, from the appearance of the timber, that some stream +of water most probably passed. On the creek they had just +left were some bushes of the white maple, the sumach of the +small species with the winged rib, and a species of honeysuckle, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_362" id="Pg_362" title="Pg_362">[362]</a></span>resembling in its general appearance and the shape +of its leaf the small honeysuckle of the Missouri, except +that it is rather larger, and bears a globular berry, about the +size of a garden pea, of a white colour, and formed of a +soft white mucilaginous substance, in which are several +small brown seeds irregularly scattered without any cell, +and enveloped in a smooth thin pellicle.</p> + +<p>They proceeded along a waving plain parallel to this valley +for about four miles, when they discovered two women, +a man and some dogs on an eminence at the distance of a +mile before them. The strangers first viewed them apparently +with much attention for a few minutes, and then two +of them sat down as if to await captain Lewis's arrival. He +went on till he reached within about half a mile, then ordered +his party to stop, put down his knapsack and rifle, and unfurling +the flag advanced alone towards the Indians. The +females soon retreated behind the hill, but the man remained +till captain Lewis came within a hundred yards from him, +when he too went off, though captain Lewis called out tabba +bone! loud enough to be heard distinctly. He hastened to +the top of the hill, but they had all disappeared. The dogs +however were less shy, and came close to him; he therefore +thought of tying a handkerchief with some beads round +their necks, and then let them loose to convince the fugitives +of his friendly disposition, but they would not suffer him to +take hold of them, and soon left him. He now made a signal +to the men, who joined him, and then all followed the track +of the Indians, which led along a continuation of the same +road they had been already travelling. It was dusty and +seemed to have been much used lately both by foot passengers +and horsemen. They had not gone along it more than +a mile when on a sudden they saw three female Indians, +from whom they had been concealed by the deep ravines +which intersected the road, till they were now within thirty +paces of each other; one of them a young woman immediately +took to flight, the other two, an elderly woman and a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_363" id="Pg_363" title="Pg_363">[363]</a></span>little girl, seeing we were too near for them to escape, sat +on the ground, and holding down their heads seemed as if +reconciled to the death which they supposed awaited them. +The same habit of holding down the head and inviting the +enemy to strike, when all chance of escape is gone, is preserved +in Egypt to this day. Captain Lewis instantly put +down his rifle, and advancing towards them, took the woman +by the hand, raised her up, and repeated the word tabba +bone! at the sane time stripping up his shirt sleeve to prove +that he was a white man, for his hands and face had become +by constant exposure quite as dark as their own. She appeared +immediately relieved from her alarm, and Drewyer +and Shields now coming up, captain Lewis gave them some +beads, a few awls, pewter mirrors, and a little paint, and +told Drewyer to request the woman to recall her companion +who had escaped to some distance, and by alarming the Indians +might cause them to attack him without any time for +explanation. She did as she was desired, and the young woman +returned almost out of breath: captain Lewis gave her +an equal portion of trinkets, and painted the tawny cheeks +of all three of them with vermillion, a ceremony which +among the Shoshonees is emblematic of peace. After they +had become composed, he informed them by signs of his wish +to go to their camp in order to see their chiefs and warriors; +they readily obeyed, and conducted the party along the +same road down the river. In this way they marched two +miles, when they met a troop of nearly sixty warriors mounted +on excellent horses riding at full speed towards them. +As they advanced captain Lewis put down his gun, and +went with the flag about fifty paces in advance. The chief +who with two men were riding in front of the main body, +spoke to the women, who now explained that the party was +composed of white men, and showed exultingly the presents +they had received. The three men immediately leaped from +their horses, came up to Captain Lewis and embraced him +with great cordiality, putting their left arm over his right +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_364" id="Pg_364" title="Pg_364">[364]</a></span>shoulder and clasping his back, applying at the same time +their left cheek to his, and frequently vociferating ah hi e! +ah hi e! "I am much pleased, I am much rejoiced." The +whole body of warriors now came forward, and our men received +the caresses, and no small share of the grease and +paint of their new friends. After this fraternal embrace, of +which the motive was much more agreeable than the manner, +captain Lewis lighted a pipe and offered it to the Indians +who had now seated themselves in a circle around the party. +But before they would receive this mark of friendship +they pulled off their moccasins, a custom as we afterwards +learnt, which indicates the sacred sincerity of their professions +when they smoke with a stranger, and which imprecates +on themselves the misery of going barefoot forever if +they are faithless to their words, a penalty by no means +light to those who rove over the thorny plains of their country. +It is not unworthy to remark the analogy which some +of the customs of those wild children of the wilderness bear +to those recorded in holy writ. Moses is admonished to pull +off his shoes, for the place on which he stood was holy +ground. Why this was enjoined as an act of peculiar reverence; +whether it was from the circumstance that in the +arid region in which the patriarch then resided, it was +deemed a test of the sincerity of devotion to walk upon the +burning sands barefooted, in some measure analogous to the +pains inflicted by the prickly pear, does not appear. After +smoking a few pipes, some trifling presents were distributed +amongst them, with which they seemed very much pleased, +particularly with the blue beads and the vermillion. Captain +Lewis then informed the chief that the object of his +visit was friendly, and should be explained as soon as he +reached their camp; but that in the meantime as the sun +was oppressive, and no water near, he wished to go there as +soon as possible. They now put on their moccasins, and +their chief, whose name was Cameahwait, made a short +speech to the warriors. Captain Lewis then gave him the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_365" id="Pg_365" title="Pg_365">[365]</a></span>flag, which he informed him was among white men the emblem +of peace, and now that he had received it was to be in +future the bond of union between them. The chief then +moved on, our party followed him, and the rest of the warriors +in a squadron, brought up the rear. After marching +a mile they were halted by the chief, who made a second +harangue, on which six or eight young men rode forward to +their camp, and no further regularity was observed in the +order of march. At the distance of four miles from where +they had first met, they reached the Indian camp, which +was in a handsome level meadow on the bank of the river. +Here they were introduced into an old leathern lodge which +the young men who had been sent from the party had fitted +up for their reception. After being seated on green boughs +and antelope skins, one of the warriors pulled up the grass +in the centre of the lodge so as to form a vacant circle of +two feet diameter, in which he kindled a fire. The chief +then produced his pipe and tobacco, the warriors all pulled +off their moccasins, and our party was requested to take off +their own. This being done, the chief lighted his pipe at the +fire within the magic circle, and then retreating from it +began a speech several minutes long, at the end of which he +pointed the stem towards the four cardinal points of the +heavens, beginning with the east and concluding with the +north. After this ceremony he presented the stem in the +same way to captain Lewis, who supposing it an invitation +to smoke, put out his hand to receive the pipe, but the chief +drew it back, and continued to repeat the same offer three +times, after which he pointed the stem first to the heavens, +then to the centre of the little circle, took three whiffs himself, +and presented it again to captain Lewis. Finding that +this last offer was in good earnest, he smoked a little, the +pipe was then held to each of the white men, and after they +had taken a few whiffs was given to the warriors. This +pipe was made of a dense transparent green stone, very +highly polished; about two and an half inches long, and of an +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_366" id="Pg_366" title="Pg_366">[366]</a></span>oval figure, the bowl being in the same situation with the +stem. A small piece of burnt clay is placed in the bottom +of the bowl to separate the tobacco from the end of the stem, +and is of an irregularly round figure, not fitting the tube +perfectly close, in order that the smoke may pass with facility. +The tobacco is of the same kind with that used by the Minnetarees, +Mandans and Ricaras of the Missouri. The Shoshonees +do not cultivate this plant, but obtain it from the +Rocky mountain Indians, and some of the bands of their +own nation who live further south. The ceremony of +smoking being concluded, captain Lewis explained to the +chief the purposes of his visit, and as by this time all the +women and children of the camp had gathered around the +lodge to indulge in a view of the first white men they had +ever seen, he distributed among them the remainder of the +small articles he had brought with him. It was now late in +the afternoon, and our party had tasted no food since the +night before. On apprising the chief of this circumstance, +he said that he had nothing but berries to eat, and presented +some cakes made of serviceberry and chokecherries +which had been dried in the sun. On these captain Lewis +made a hearty meal, and then walked down towards the river: +he found it a rapid clear stream forty yards wide and three +feet deep; the banks were low and abrupt, like those of the +upper part of the Missouri, and the bed formed of loose +stones and gravel. Its course, as far as he could observe it, +was a little to the north of west, and was bounded on each +side by a range of high mountains, of which those on the +east are the lowest and most distant from the river.</p> + +<p>The chief informed him that this stream discharged itself +at the distance of half a day's march, into another of +twice its size, coming from the southwest; but added, on +further inquiry, that there was scarcely more timber below +the junction of those rivers than in this neighbourhood, +and that the river was rocky, rapid, and so closely confined +between high mountains, that it was impossible to pass down +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_367" id="Pg_367" title="Pg_367">[367]</a></span>it, either by land or water to the great lake, where as he +had understood the white men lived. This information +was far from being satisfactory; for there was no timber +here that would answer the purpose of building canoes, indeed +not more than just sufficient for fuel, and even that +consisted of the narrow-leafed cotton wood, the red and the +narrow-leafed willow, the chokecherry, serviceberry and a +few currant bushes such as are common on the Missouri. +The prospect of going on by land is more pleasant; for there +are great numbers of horses feeding in every direction +round the camp, which will enable us to transport our +stores if necessary over the mountains. Captain Lewis +returned from the river to his lodge, and on his way an +Indian invited him into his bower and gave him a small +morsel of boiled antelope and a piece of fresh salmon +roasted. This was the first salmon he had seen, and perfectly +satisfied him that he was now on the waters of the +Pacific. On reaching this lodge, he resumed his conversation +with the chief, after which he was entertained with +a dance by the Indians. It now proved, as our party had +feared, that the men whom they had first met this morning +had returned to the camp and spread the alarm that their +enemies, the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie, whom they call +Pahkees, were advancing on them. The warriors instantly +armed themselves and were coming down in expectation of +an attack, when they were agreeably surprised by meeting +our party. The greater part of them were armed with +bows and arrows, and shields, but a few had small fusils, +such as are furnished by the northwest company traders, +and which they had obtained from the Indians on the +Yellowstone, with whom they are now at peace. They had +reason to dread the approach of the Pahkees, who had attacked +them in the course of this spring and totally defeated +them. On this occasion twenty of their warriors were either +killed or made prisoners, and they lost their whole camp +except the leathern lodge which they had fitted up for us, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_368" id="Pg_368" title="Pg_368">[368]</a></span>and were now obliged to live in huts of a conical figure +made with willow brush. The music and dancing, which +was in no respect different from those of the Missouri Indians, +continued nearly all night; but captain Lewis retired +to rest about twelve o'clock, when the fatigues of the day +enabled him to sleep though he was awaked several times +by the yells of the dancers.</p> + +<p>Whilst all these things were occurring to captain Lewis +we were slowly and laboriously ascending the river. For +the first two and a half miles we went along the island opposite +to which we encamped last evening, and soon reached +a second island behind which comes in a small creek on the +left side of the river. It rises in the mountains to the east +and forms a handsome valley for some miles from its mouth, +where it is a bold running stream about seven yards wide: +we called it M‘Neal's creek, after Hugh M‘Neal one of our +party. Just above this stream and at the distance of four +miles from our camp is a point of limestone rock on the +right, about seventy feet high, forming a cliff over the river. +From the top of it the Beaver's-head bore north 24° east +twelve miles distant, the course of Wisdom river, that is +the direction of its valley through the mountains is north +25° west, while the gap through which the Jefferson enters +the mountains is ten miles above us on a course south 18° +west. From this limestone rock we proceeded along several +islands, on both sides, and after making twelve miles +arrived at a cliff of high rocks on the right, opposite to +which we encamped in a smooth level prairie, near a few +cottonwood trees; but were obliged to use the dry willow +brush for fuel. The river is still very crooked, the +bends short and abrupt, and obstructed by so many shoals, +over which the canoes were to be dragged, that the men +were in the water three fourths of the day. They saw +numbers of otter, some beaver, antelopes, ducks, geese, +and cranes, but they killed nothing except a single deer. +They, however, caught some very fine trout, as they have +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_369" id="Pg_369" title="Pg_369">[369]</a></span>done for several days past. The weather had been cloudy +and cool during the forepart of the day, and at eight o'clock +a shower of rain fell.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 14. In order to give time for the boats to +reach the forks of Jefferson river, captain Lewis determined +to remain here and obtain all the information he could +collect with regard to the country. Having nothing to eat +but a little flour and parched meal, with the berries of the +Indians, he sent out Drewyer and Shields, who borrowed +horses from the natives, to hunt for a few hours. About +the same time the young warriors set out for the same purpose. +There are but few elk or blacktailed deer in this +neighbourhood, and as the common red-deer secrete themselves +in the bushes when alarmed, they are soon safe from +the arrows, which are but feeble weapons against any animals +which the huntsmen cannot previously run down +with their horses. The chief game of the Shoshonees, +therefore, is the antelope, which when pursued retreats to +the open plains, where the horses have full room for the +chase. But such is its extraordinary fleetness and wind +that a single horse has no possible chance of outrunning it, +or tiring it down; and the hunters are therefore obliged to +resort to stratagem. About twenty Indians, mounted on +fine horses, and armed with bows and arrows, left the camp; +in a short time they descried a herd of ten antelopes: they +immediately separated into little squads of two or three, +and formed a scattered circle round the herd for five or six +miles, keeping at a wary distance, so as not to alarm them +till they were perfectly inclosed, and usually selecting some +commanding eminence as a stand. Having gained their +positions, a small party rode towards the herd, and with +wonderful dexterity the huntsman preserved his seat, and +the horse his footing, as he ran at full speed over the hills, +and down the steep ravines, and along the borders of the +precipices. They were soon outstripped by the antelopes, +which on gaining the other extremity of the circle were driven +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_370" id="Pg_370" title="Pg_370">[370]</a></span>back and pursued by the fresh hunters. They turned +and flew, rather than ran in another direction; but there too, +they found new enemies. In this way they were alternately +pursued backwards and forwards, till at length, notwithstanding +the skill of the hunters, they all escaped, and the +party after running for two hours returned without having +caught any thing, and their horses foaming with sweat. +This chase, the greater part of which was seen from the +camp, formed a beautiful scene; but to the hunters is +exceedingly laborious, and so unproductive, even when they +are able to worry the animal down and shoot him, that forty +or fifty hunters will sometimes be engaged for half a day +without obtaining more than two or three antelopes. Soon +after they returned, our two huntsmen came in with no better +success. Captain Lewis therefore made a little paste +with the flour, and the addition of some berries formed a +very palatable repast. Having now secured the good will +of Cameahwait, captain Lewis informed him of his wish +that he would speak to the warriors and endeavour to engage +them to accompany him to the forks of Jefferson river, +where by this time another chief with a large party of +white men were waiting his return: that it would be necessary +to take about thirty horses to transport the merchandize; +that they should be well rewarded for their trouble; +and that when all the party should have reached the +Shoshonee camp they would remain some time among them, +and trade for horses, as well as concert plans for furnishing +them in future with regular supplies of merchandize. He +readily consented to do so, and after collecting the tribe together +he made a long harangue, and in about an hour and +a half returned, and told captain Lewis that they would be +ready to accompany him in the morning.</p> + +<p>As the early part of the day was cold, and the men stiff +and sore from the fatigues of yesterday: we did not set +out till seven o'clock. At the distance of a mile we passed +a bold stream on the right, which comes from a snowy +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_371" id="Pg_371" title="Pg_371">[371]</a></span>mountain to the north, and at its entrance is four yards +wide, and three feet in depth: we called it Track creek: at +six miles further we reached another stream which heads +in some springs at the foot of the mountains on the left. +Alter passing a number of bayous and small islands on each +side, we encamped about half a mile by land below the Rattlesnake +cliffs. The river was cold, shallow, and as it approached +the mountains formed one continued rapid, over +which we were obliged to drag the boats with great labour +and difficulty. By using constant exertions we succeeded +in making fourteen miles, but this distance did not +carry us more than six and a half in a straight line: several +of the men have received wounds and lamed themselves +in hauling the boats over the stones. The hunters supplied +them with five deer and an antelope.</p> + +<p>Thursday 15. Captain Lewis rose early, and having eaten +nothing yesterday except his scanty meal of flour and +berries felt the inconveniences of extreme hunger. On inquiry +he found that his whole stock of provisions consisted +of two pounds of flour. This he ordered to be divided into +two equal parts, and one half of it boiled with the berries +into a sort of pudding: and after presenting a large share +to the chief, he and his three men breakfasted on the remainder. +Cameahwait was delighted at this new dish; he +took a little of the flour in his hand tasted and examined it +very narrowly, asking if it was made of roots; captain Lewis +explained the process of preparing it, and he said it was the +best thing he had eaten for a long time.</p> + +<p>This being finished, captain Lewis now endeavoured to +hasten the departure of the Indians who still hesitated, and +seemed reluctant to move, although the chief addressed +them twice for the purpose of urging them: on inquiring +the reason, Cameahwait told him that some foolish person +had suggested that he was in league with their enemies the +Pahkees, and had come only to draw them into ambuscade, +but that he himself did not believe it: captain Lewis felt +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_372" id="Pg_372" title="Pg_372">[372]</a></span>uneasy at this insinuation: he knew the suspicious temper of +the Indians, accustomed from their infancy to regard every +stranger as an enemy, and saw that if this suggestion were +not instantly checked, it might hazard the total failure of the +enterprise. Assuming therefore a serious air, he told the +chief that he was sorry to find they placed so little confidence +in him, but that he pardoned their suspicions because +they were ignorant of the character of white men, among +whom it was disgraceful to lie or entrap even an enemy by +falsehood; that if they continued to think thus meanly of us +they might be assured no white men would ever come to +supply them with arms and merchandize; that there was at +this moment a party of white men waiting to trade with +them at the forks of the river; and that if the greater part +of the tribe entertained any suspicion, he hoped there were +still among them some who were men, who would go and +see with their own eyes the truth of what he said, and who, +even if there was any danger, were not afraid to die. To +doubt the courage of an Indian is to touch the tenderest +string of his mind, and the surest way to rouse him to any +dangerous achievement. Cameahwait instantly replied, +that he was not afraid to die, and mounting his horse, for the +third time harangued the warriors: he told them that he was +resolved to go if he went alone, or if he were sure of perishing; +that he hoped there were among those who heard him +some who were not afraid to die, and who would prove it +by mounting their horses and following him. This harangue +produced an effect on six or eight only of the warriors, who +now joined their chief. With these captain Lewis smoked a +pipe, and then fearful of some change in their capricious +temper set out immediately. It was about twelve o'clock +when his small party left the camp, attended by Cameahwait +and the eight warriors; their departure seemed to spread +a gloom over the village; those who would not venture to +go were sullen and melancholy, and the woman were crying +and imploring the Great Spirit to protect their warriors as +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_373" id="Pg_373" title="Pg_373">[373]</a></span>if they were going to certain destruction: yet such is the +wavering inconstancy of these savages, that captain Lewis's +party had not gone far when they were joined by ten or +twelve more warriors, and before reaching the creek which +they had passed on the morning of the 13th, all the men of +the nation and a number of women had overtaken them, +and had changed from the surly ill temper in which they +were two hours ago, to the greatest cheerfulness and gayety. +When they arrived at the spring on the side of the mountain +where the party had encamped on the 12th, the chief +insisted on halting to let the horses graze; to which captain +Lewis assented and smoked with them. They are excessively +fond of the pipe, in which however they are not able to indulge +much as they do not cultivate tobacco themselves, and +their rugged country affords them but few articles to exchange +for it. Here they remained for about an hour, and +on setting out, by engaging to pay four of the party, captain +Lewis obtained permission for himself and each of his +men to ride behind an Indian; but he soon found riding without +stirrup more tiresome than walking, and therefore +dismounted, making the Indian carry his pack. About sunset +they reached the upper part of the level valley in the +cove through which he had passed, and which they now +called Shoshonee cove. The grass being burnt on the north +side of the river they crossed over to the south, and encamped +about four miles above the narrow pass between the hills +noticed as they traversed the cove before. The river was +here about six yards wide, and frequently dammed up by +the beaver. Drewyer had been sent forward to hunt, but +he returned in the evening unsuccessful, and their only supper +therefore was the remaining pound of flour stirred in a +little boiling water and then divided between the four white +men and two of the Indians.</p> + +<p>In order not to exhaust the strength of the men, captain +Clarke did not leave his camp till after breakfast. Although, +he was scarcely half a mile below the Rattlesnake cliffs he +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_374" id="Pg_374" title="Pg_374">[374]</a></span>was obliged to make a circuit of two miles by water before +he reached them. The river now passed between low and +rugged mountains and cliffs formed of a mixture of limestone +and a hard black rock, with no covering except a few scattered +pines. At the distance of four miles is a bold little +stream which throws itself from the mountains down a steep +precipice of rocks on the left. One mile farther is a second +point of rocks, and an island, about a mile beyond which is +a creek on the right, ten yards wide and three feet three +inches in depth, with a strong current: we called it Willard's +creek after one of our men, Alexander Willard. +Three miles beyond this creek, after passing a high cliff on +the right opposite to a steep hill, we reached a small meadow +on the left bank of the river. During its passage through +these hills to Willard's creek the river had been less torturous +than usual, so that in the first six miles to Willard's +creek we had advanced four miles on our route. We continued +on for two miles, till we reached in the evening a +small bottom covered with clover and a few cottonwood +trees: here we passed the night near the remains of some +old Indian lodges of brush. The river is as it has been for +some days shallow and rapid; and our men, who are for +hours together in the river, suffer not only from fatigue, +but from the extreme coldness of the water, the temperature +of which is as low as that of the freshest springs in our +country. In walking along the side of the river, captain +Clarke was very near being bitten twice by rattlesnakes, +and the Indian woman narrowly escaped the same misfortune. +We caught a number of fine trout; but the only game +procured to-day was a buck, which had a peculiarly bitter +taste, proceeding probably from its favourite food, the willow.</p> + +<p>Friday, 16. As neither our party nor the Indians had +any thing to eat, captain Lewis sent two of his hunters +ahead this morning to procure some provision: at the same +time he requested Cameahwait to prevent his young men +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_375" id="Pg_375" title="Pg_375">[375]</a></span>from going out, lest by their noise they might alarm the +game; but this measure immediately revived their suspicions: +it now began to be believed that these men were sent +forward in order to apprise the enemy of their coming, and +as captain Lewis was fearful of exciting any further uneasiness, +he made no objection on seeing a small party of Indians +go on each side of the valley under pretence of hunting, +but in reality to watch the movements of our two men: even +this precaution however did not quiet the alarms of the Indians, +a considerable part of whom returned home, leaving +only twenty-eight men and three women. After the hunters +had been gone about an hour, captain Lewis again mounted +with one of the Indians behind him, and the whole party +set out; but just as they passed through the narrows they +saw one of the spies coming back at full speed across the +plain: the chief stopped and seemed uneasy, the whole band +were moved with fresh suspicions, and captain Lewis himself +was much disconcerted, lest by some unfortunate accident +some of their enemies might have perhaps straggled +that way. The young Indian had scarcely breath to say a +few words as he came up, when the whole troop dashed +forward as fast as their horses could carry them, and captain +Lewis astonished at this movement was borne along for +nearly a mile before he learnt with great satisfaction that +it was all caused by the spy's having come to announce that +one of the white men had killed a deer. Relieved from his +anxiety he now found the jolting very uncomfortable; for +the Indian behind him being afraid of not getting his share +of the feast had lashed the horse at every step since they +set off; he therefore reined him in and ordered the Indian +to stop beating him. The fellow had no idea of losing time +in disputing the point, and jumping off the horse ran for a +mile at full speed. Captain Lewis slackened his pace, and +followed at a sufficient distance to observe them. When +they reached the place where Drewyer had thrown out the +intestines, they all dismounted in confusion and ran tumbling +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_376" id="Pg_376" title="Pg_376">[376]</a></span>over each other like famished dogs: each tore away +whatever part he could and instantly began to eat it; some +had the liver, some the kidneys, in short no part on which +we are accustomed to look with disgust escaped them: one +of them who had seized about nine feet of the entrails was +chewing at one end, while with his hand he was diligently +clearing his way by discharging the contents at the other. +It was indeed impossible to see these wretches ravenously +feeding on the filth of animals, and the blood streaming +from their mouths, without deploring how nearly the condition +of savages approaches that of the brute creation: yet +though suffering with hunger they did not attempt, as they +might have done, to take by force the whole deer, but contented +themselves with what had been thrown away by the +hunter. Captain Lewis now had the deer skinned, and after +reserving a quarter of it gave the rest of the animal to +the chief to be divided among the Indians, who immediately +devoured nearly the whole of it without cooking. They now +went forward towards the creek where there was some +brushwood to make a fire, and found Drewyer who had killed +a second deer: the same struggle for the entrails was +renewed here, and on giving nearly the whole deer to the +Indians, they devoured it even to the soft part of the hoofs. +A fire being made captain Lewis had his breakfast, during +which Drewyer brought in a third deer: this too, after reserving +one quarter, was given to the Indians, who now +seemed completely satisfied and in good humour. At this +place they remained about two hours to let the horses graze, +and then continued their journey, and towards evening +reached the lower part of the cove having on the way shot +an antelope, the greater part of which was given to the Indians. +As they were now approaching the place where they +had been told by Captain Lewis they would see the white +men, the chief insisted on halting: they therefore all dismounted, +and Cameahwait with great ceremony and as if +for ornament, put tippets or skins round the necks of our +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_377" id="Pg_377" title="Pg_377">[377]</a></span>party, similar to those worn by themselves. As this was +obviously intended to disguise the white men, captain Lewis +in order to inspire them with more confidence put his cocked +hat and feather on the head of the chief, and as his own +over-shirt was in the Indian form, and his skin browned by +the sun, he could not have been distinguished from an Indian: +the men followed his example, and the change seemed +to be very <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'argeeable'.">agreeable</ins> to the Indians.</p> + +<p>In order to guard however against any disappointment +captain Lewis again explained the possibility of our not +having reached the forks in consequence of the difficulty +of the navigation, so that if they should not find us at that +spot they might be assured of our not being far below. +They again all mounted their horses and rode on rapidly, +making one of the Indians carry their flag, so that we might +recognise them as they approached us; but to the mortification +and disappointment of both parties on coming within +two miles of the forks, no canoes were to be seen. Uneasy +lest at this moment he should be abandoned, and all his +hopes of obtaining aid from the Indians be destroyed, captain +Lewis gave the chief his gun, telling him that if the enemies +of his nation were in the bushes he might defend himself +with it; that for his own part he was not afraid to die, +and that the chief might shoot him as soon as they discovered +themselves betrayed. The other three men at the +same time gave their guns to the Indians, who now seemed +more easy, but still wavered in their resolutions. As they +went on towards the point, captain Lewis perceiving how +critical his situation had become, resolved to attempt a +stratagem which his present difficulty seemed completely +to justify. Recollecting the notes he had left at the point +for us, he sent Drewyer for them with an Indian who witnessed +his taking them from the pole. When they were +brought, captain Lewis told Cameahwait that on leaving +his brother chief at the place where the river issues from +the mountains, it was agreed that the boats should not be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_378" id="Pg_378" title="Pg_378">[378]</a></span>brought higher than the next forks we should meet; but +that if the rapid water prevented the boats from coming on +as fast as they expected, his brother chief was to send a note +to the first forks above him to let him know where the boats +were; that this note had been left this morning at the forks, +and mentioned that the canoes were just below the mountains, +and coming slowly up in consequence of the current. +Captain Lewis added, that he would stay at the forks for +his brother chief, but would send a man down the river, +and that if Cameahwait doubted what he said, one of their +young men would go with him whilst he and the other two +remained at the forks. This story satisfied the chief and +the greater part of the Indians, but a few did not conceal +their suspicion, observing that we told different stories, +and complaining that the chief exposed them to danger by a +mistaken confidence. Captain Lewis now wrote by the light +of some willow brush a note to captain Clarke, which he +gave to Drewyer, with an order to use all possible expedition +in ascending the river, and engaged an Indian to accompany +him by a promise of a knife and some beads. At +bedtime the chief and five others slept round the fire of +captain Lewis, and the rest hid themselves in different parts +of the willow brush to avoid the enemy, who they feared +would attack them in the night. Captain Lewis endeavoured +to assume a cheerfulness he did not feel to prevent the +despondency of the savages: after conversing gayly with +them he retired to his musquitoe bier, by the side of which +the chief now placed himself: he lay down, yet slept but little, +being in fact scarcely less uneasy than his Indian companions. +He was apprehensive that finding the ascent of +the river impracticable, captain Clarke might have stopped +below the Rattlesnake bluff, and the messenger would not +meet him. The consequence of disappointing the Indians at +this moment would most probably be, that they would retire +and secrete themselves in the mountains, so as to prevent +our having an opportunity of recovering their confidence: +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_379" id="Pg_379" title="Pg_379">[379]</a></span>they would also spread a panic through all the +neighbouring Indians, and cut us off from the supply of +horses so useful and almost so essential to our success: he +was at the same time consoled by remembering that his +hopes of assistance rested on better foundations than their +generosity—their avarice, and their curiosity. He had promised +liberal exchanges for their horses; but what was still +move seductive, he had told them that one of their country-women +who had been taken with the Minnetarees accompanied +the party below; and one of the men had spread the +report of our having with us a man perfectly black, whose +hair was short and curled. This last account had excited +a great degree of curiosity, and they seemed more desirous +of seeing this monster than of obtaining the most favourable +barter for their horses.</p> + +<p>In the meantime we had set out after breakfast, and although +we proceeded with more ease than we did yesterday, +the river was still so rapid and shallow as to oblige us to +drag the large canoes during the greater part of the day. +For the first seven miles the river formed a bend to the +right so as to make our advance only three miles in a straight +line; the stream is crooked, narrow, small, and shallow, with +highlands occasionally on the banks, and strewed with +islands, four of which are opposite to each other. Near this +place we left the valley, to which we gave the name of Serviceberry +valley, from the abundance of that fruit now ripe +which is found in it. In the course of the four following +miles we passed several more islands and bayous on each +side of the river, and reached a high cliff on the right. Two +and a half miles beyond this the cliffs approach on both +sides and form a very considerable rapid near the entrance +of a bold running stream on the left. The water was now +excessively cold, and the rapids had been frequent and +troublesome. On ascending an eminence captain Clarke saw the +forks of the river and sent the hunters up. They must +have left it only a short time before captain Lewis's arrival, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_380" id="Pg_380" title="Pg_380">[380]</a></span>but fortunately had not seen the note which enabled him to +induce the Indians to stay with him. From the top of this +eminence he could discover only three trees through the +whole country, nor was there along the sides of the cliffs +they had passed in the course of the day, any timber except +a few small pines: the low grounds were supplied with +willow, currant bushes, and serviceberries. After advancing +half a mile further we came to the lower point of +an island near the middle of the river, and about the centre +of the valley: here we halted for the night, only four miles +by land, though ten by water, below the point where captain +Lewis lay. Although we had made only fourteen miles, the +labours of the men had fatigued and exhausted them very +much: we therefore collected some small willow brush for +a fire, and lay down to sleep.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_381" id="Pg_381" title="Pg_381">[381]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Affecting interview between the wife of Chaboneau and the chief of the Shoshonees—Council +held with that nation, and favourable result—The extreme +navigable point of the Missouri mentioned—General character of the river +and of the country through which it passes—Captain Clarke in exploring the +source of the Columbia falls in company with another party of Shoshonees—The +geographical information acquired from one of that party—Their manner +of catching fish—The party reach Lewis river—The difficulties which +captain Clarke had to encounter in his route—Friendship and hospitality of +the Shoshonees—The party with captain Lewis employed in making saddles, +and preparing for the journey.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>Saturday, August 17. Captain Lewis rose very early +and despatched Drewyer and the Indian down the river in +quest of the boats. Shields was sent out at the same time +to hunt, while M‘Neal prepared a breakfast out of the remainder +of the meat. Drewyer had been gone about two +hours, and the Indians were all anxiously waiting for some +news, when an Indian who had straggled a short distance +down the river, returned with a report that he had seen the +white men, who were only a short distance below, and were +coming on. The Indians were all transported with joy, and +the chief in the warmth of his satisfaction renewed his +embrace to captain Lewis, who was quite as much delighted +as the Indians themselves; the report proved most agreeably +true. On setting out at seven o'clock, captain Clarke with +Chaboneau and his wife walked on shore, but they had not +gone more than a mile before captain Clarke saw Sacajawea, +who was with her husband one hundred yards ahead, began to +dance, and show every mark of the most extravagant joy, turning +round him and pointing to several Indians, whom he now +saw advancing on horseback, sucking her fingers at the same +time to indicate that they were of her native tribe. As they +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_382" id="Pg_382" title="Pg_382">[382]</a></span>advanced captain Clarke discovered among them Drewyer +dressed like an Indian, from whom he learnt the situation of +the party. While the boats were performing the circuit, he +went towards the forks with the Indians, who as they went +along, sang aloud with the greatest appearance of delight. +We soon drew near to the camp, and just as we approached it +a woman made her way through the crowd towards Sacajawea, +and recognising each other, they embraced with the +most tender affection. The meeting of these two young women +had in it something peculiarly touching, not only in the +ardent manner in which their feelings were expressed, but +from the real interest of their situation. They had been +companions in childhood, in the war with the Minnetarees +they had both been taken prisoners in the same battle, they +had shared and softened the rigours of their captivity, till +one of them had escaped from the Minnetarees, with scarce +a hope of ever seeing her friend relieved from the hands of +her enemies. While Sacajawea was renewing among the +women the friendships of former days, captain Clarke went +on, and was received by captain Lewis and the chief, who +after the first embraces and salutations were over, conducted +him to a sort of circular tent or shade of willows. +Here he was seated on a white robe; and the chief immediately +tied in his hair six small shells resembling pearls, an ornament +highly valued by these people, who procured them in +the course of trade from the seacoast. The moccasins of the +whole party were then taken off, and after much ceremony +the smoking began. After this the conference was to be opened, +and glad of an opportunity of being able to converse more +intelligibly, Sacajawea was sent for; she came into the tent, +sat down, and was beginning to interpret, when in the person +of Cameahwait she recognised her brother: she instantly +jumped up, and ran and embraced him, throwing over him +her blanket and weeping profusely; the chief was himself +moved, though not in the same degree. After some conversation +between them she resumed her seat, and attempted to interpret +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_383" id="Pg_383" title="Pg_383">[383]</a></span>for us, but her new situation seemed to overpower her, +and she was frequently interrupted by her tears. After the +council was finished, the unfortunate woman learnt that all +her family were dead except two brothers, one of whom was +absent, and a son of her eldest sister, a small boy, who was +immediately adopted by her. The canoes arriving soon after, +we formed a camp in a meadow on the left side, a little below +the forks; took out our baggage, and by means of our sails +and willow poles formed a canopy for our Indian visitors. +About four o'clock the chiefs and warriors were collected, +and after the customary ceremony of taking off the moccasins +and smoking a pipe, we explained to them in a long harangue +the purposes of our visit, making themselves one conspicuous +object of the good wishes of our government, on whose +strength as well as its friendly disposition we expatiated. +We told them of their dependance on the will of our government +for all future supplies of whatever was necessary either +for their comfort or defence; that as we were sent to discover +the best route by which merchandize could be conveyed +to them, and no trade would be begun before our return, +it was mutually advantageous that we should proceed with +as little delay as possible; that we were under the necessity +of requesting them to furnish us with horses to transport +our baggage across the mountains, and a guide to show us +the route, but that they should be amply remunerated for +their horses, as well as for every other service they should +render us. In the meantime our first wish was, that they +should immediately collect as many horses as were necessary +to transport our baggage to their village, where, at our +leisure we would trade with them for as many horses as they +could spare.</p> + +<p>The speech made a favourable impression: the chief in +reply thanked us for our expressions of friendship towards +himself and his nation, and declared their willingness to render +us every service. He lamented that it would be so long +before they should be supplied with firearms, but that till +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_384" id="Pg_384" title="Pg_384">[384]</a></span>then they could subsist as they had heretofore done. He +concluded by saying that there were not horses here sufficient +to transport our goods, but that he would return to the +village to-morrow, and bring all his own horses, and encourage +his people to come over with theirs. The conference +being ended to our satisfaction, we now inquired of Cameahwait +what chiefs were among the party, and he pointed +out two of them. We then distributed our presents: to +Cameahwait we gave a medal of the small size, with the +likeness of president Jefferson, and on the reverse a figure of +hands clasped with a pipe and tomahawk: to this was added +an uniform coat, a shirt, a pair of scarlet leggings, a carrot +of tobacco, and some small articles. Each of the other chiefs +received a small medal struck during the presidency of general +Washington, a shirt, handkerchief, leggings, a knife, +and some tobacco. Medals of the same sort were also presented +to two young warriors, who though not chiefs were +promising youths and very much respected in the tribe. +These honorary gifts were followed by presents of paint, +moccasins, awls, knives, beads and looking-glasses. We +also gave them all a plentiful meal of Indian corn, of which +the hull is taken off by being boiled in lye; and as this was +the first they had ever tasted, they were very much pleased +with it. They had indeed abundant sources of surprise in all +they saw: the appearance of the men, their arms, their clothing, +the canoes, the strange looks of the negro, and the sagacity +of our dog, all in turn shared their admiration, which +was raised to astonishment by a shot from the airgun: this operation +was instantly considered as a <i>great medicine</i>, by which +they as well as the other Indians mean something emanating +directly from the Great Spirit, or produced by his invisible +and incomprehensible agency. The display of all these riches +had been intermixed with inquiries into the geographical +situation of their country; for we had learnt by experience, +that to keep the savages in good temper their attention +should not be wearied with too much business; but that the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_385" id="Pg_385" title="Pg_385">[385]</a></span>serious affairs should be enlivened by a mixture of what is +new and entertaining. Our hunters brought in very seasonably +four deer and an antelope, the last of which we gave +to the Indians, who in a very short time devoured it. After +the council was over, we consulted as to our future operations. +The game does not promise to last here for a number +of days, and this circumstance combined with many others +to induce our going on as soon as possible. Our Indian information +as to the state of the Columbia is of a very alarming +kind, and our first object is of course to ascertain the +practicability of descending it, of which the Indians discourage +our expectations. It was therefore agreed that captain +Clarke should set off in the morning with eleven men, +furnished, besides their arms, with tools for making canoes; +that he should take Chaboneau and his wife to the camp of +the Shoshonees, where he was to leave them, in order to hasten +the collection of horses; that he was then to lead his +men down to the Columbia, and if he found it navigable, and +the timber in sufficient quantity, begin to build canoes. As +soon as he had decided as to the propriety of proceeding down +the Columbia or across the mountains, he was to send back +one of the men with information of it to captain Lewis, who +by that time would have brought up the whole party, and the +rest of the baggage as far as the Shoshonee village.</p> + +<p>Preparations were accordingly made this evening for +such an arrangement. The sun is excessively hot in the +day time, but the nights very cold, and rendered still more +unpleasant from the want of any fuel except willow brush. +The appearances too of game, for many days' subsistence, +are not very favourable.</p> + +<p>Sunday 18. In order to relieve the men of captain +Clarke's party from the heavy weight of their arms provisions +and tools, we exposed a few articles to barter for +horses, and soon obtained three very good ones, in exchange +for which we gave a uniform coat, a pair of leggings, a +few handkerchiefs, three knifes and some other small articles, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_386" id="Pg_386" title="Pg_386">[386]</a></span>the whole of which did not in the United States cost +more than twenty dollars: a fourth was purchased by the +men for an old checkered shirt, a pair of old leggings and a +knife. The Indians seemed to be quite as well pleased as +ourselves at the bargains they had made. We now found +that the two inferior chiefs were somewhat displeased at +not having received a present equal to that given to the +great chief, who appeared in a dress so much finer than +their own. To allay their discontent, we bestowed on them +two old coats, and promised them that if they were active +in assisting us across the mountains they should have an +additional present. This treatment completely reconciled +them, and the whole Indian party, except two men and +two women, set out in perfect good humour to return home +with captain Clarke. After going fifteen miles through a +wide level valley with no wood but willows and shrubs, he +encamped in the Shoshonee cove near a narrow pass where +the highlands approach within two hundred yards of each +other, and the river is only ten yards wide. The Indians +went on further, except the three chiefs and two young +men, who assisted in eating two deer brought in by the hunters. +After their departure every thing was prepared for +the transportation of the baggage, which was now exposed +to the air and dried. Our game was one deer and a beaver, +and we saw an abundance of trout in the river for which we +fixed a net in the evening.</p> + +<p>We have now reached the extreme navigable point of +the Missouri, which our observation places in latitude 43° +30' 43" north. It is difficult to comprise in any general description +the characteristics of a river so extensive, and fed +by so many streams which have their sources in a great variety +of soils and climates. But the Missouri is still sufficiently +powerful to give to all its waters something of a +common character, which is of course decided by the nature +of the country through which it passes. The bed of the +river is chiefly composed of a blue mud from which the water +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_387" id="Pg_387" title="Pg_387">[387]</a></span>itself derives a deep tinge. From its junction here to +the place near which it leaves the mountains, its course is +embarrassed by rapids and rocks which the hills on each +side have thrown into its channel. From that place, its current, +with the exception of the falls, is not difficult of navigation, +nor is there much variation in its appearance till the +mouth of the Platte. That powerful river throws out vast +quantities of coarse sand which contribute to give a new +face to the Missouri, which is now much more impeded by +islands. The sand, as it is drifted down, adheres in time +to some of the projecting points from the shore, and forms +a barrier to the mud, which at length fills to the same +height with the sandbar itself; as soon as it has acquired a +consistency, the willow grows there the first year, and by +its roots assists the solidity of the whole: as the mud and +sand accumulate the cottonwood tree next appears; till +the gradual excretion of soils raises the surface of the +point above the highest freshets. Thus stopped in its +course the water seeks a passage elsewhere, and as the soil +on each side is light and yielding, what was only a peninsula, +becomes gradually an island, and the river indemnifies +itself for the usurpation by encroaching on the adjacent +shore. In this way the Missouri like the Mississippi +is constantly cutting off the projections of the shore, and +leaving its ancient channel, which is then marked by the +mud it has deposited and a few stagnant ponds.</p> + +<p>The general appearance of the country as it presents itself +on ascending may be thus described: From its mouth to +the two Charletons, a ridge of highlands borders the river +at a small distance, leaving between them fine rich meadows. +From the mouth of the two Charletons the hills recede +from the river, giving greater extent to the low grounds, but +they again approach the river for a short distance near +Grand river, and again at Snake creek. From that point +they retire, nor do they come again to the neighbourhood +of the river till above the Sauk prairie, where they are comparatively +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_388" id="Pg_388" title="Pg_388">[388]</a></span>low and small. Thence they diverge and reappear +at the Charaton Searty, after which they are scarcely +if at all discernible, till they advance to the Missouri nearly +opposite to the Kanzas.</p> + +<p>The same ridge of hills extends on the south side, in almost +one unbroken chain, from the mouth of the Missouri +to the Kanzas, though decreasing in height beyond the +Osage. As they are nearer the river than the hills on the +opposite sides, the intermediate low grounds are of course +narrower, but the general character of the soil is common +to both sides.</p> + +<p>In the meadows and along the shore, the tree most common +is the cottonwood, which with the willow forms almost +the exclusive growth of the Missouri. The hills or rather +high grounds, for they do not rise higher than from one +hundred and fifty to two hundred feet, are composed of a +good rich black soil, which is perfectly susceptible of cultivation, +though it becomes richer on the hills beyond the +Platte, and are in general thinly covered with timber. Beyond +these hills the country extends into high open plains, +which are on both sides sufficiently fertile, but the south +has the advantage of better streams of water, and may +therefore be considered as preferable for settlements. The +lands, however, become much better and the timber more +abundant between the Osage and the Kanzas. From the +Kanzas to the Nadawa the hills continue at nearly an equal +distance, varying from four to eight miles from each other, +except that from the little Platte to nearly opposite the ancient +Kanzas village, the hills are more remote, and the +meadows of course wider on the north side of the river. +From the Nadawa the northern hills disappear, except at +occasional intervals, where they are seen at a distance, till +they return about twenty-seven miles above the Platte near +the ancient village of the Ayoways. On the south the hills +continue close to the river from the ancient village of the +Kanzas up to Council bluff, fifty miles beyond the Platte; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_389" id="Pg_389" title="Pg_389">[389]</a></span>forming high prairie lands. On both sides the lands are good, +and perhaps this distance from the Osage to the Platte may +be recommended as among the best districts on the Missouri +for the purposes of settlers.</p> + +<p>From the Ayoway village the northern hills again retire +from the river, to which they do not return till three hundred +and twenty miles above, at Floyd's river. The hills +on the south also leave the river at Council bluffs, and reappear +at the Mahar village, two hundred miles up the Missouri. +The country thus abandoned by the hills is more +open and the timber in smaller quantities than below the +Platte, so that although the plain is rich and covered with +high grass, the want of wood renders it less calculated for +cultivation than below that river.</p> + +<p>The northern hills after remaining near the Missouri for +a few miles at Floyd's river, recede from it at the Sioux +river, the course of which they follow; and though they +again visit the Missouri at Whitestone river, where they +are low, yet they do not return to it till beyond James river. +The highlands on the south, after continuing near the river +at the Mahar villages, again disappear, and do not approach +it till the Cobalt bluffs, about forty-four miles from the villages, +and then from those bluffs to the Yellowstone river, +a distance of about one thousand miles, they follow the +banks of the river with scarcely any deviation.</p> + +<p>From the James river, the lower grounds are confined +within a narrow space by the hills on both sides, which now +continue near each other up to the mountains. The space +between them however varies from one to three miles as +high as the Muscleshell river, from which the hills approach +so high as to leave scarcely any low grounds on the river, +and near the falls reach the waters edge. Beyond the falls +the hills are scattered and low to the first range of mountains.</p> + +<p>The soil during the whole length of the Missouri below +the Platte is generally speaking very fine, and although the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_390" id="Pg_390" title="Pg_390">[390]</a></span>timber is scarce, there is still sufficient for the purposes of +settlers; But beyond that river, although the soil is still +rich, yet the almost total absence of timber, and particularly +the want of good water, of which there is but a small +quantity in the creeks, and even that brackish, oppose powerful +obstacles to its settlement. The difficulty becomes still +greater between the Muscleshell river and the falls, where +besides the greater scarcity of timber, the country itself +is less fertile.</p> + +<p>The elevation of these highlands varies as they pass +through this extensive tract of country. From Wood river +they are about one hundred and fifty feet above the water, +and continue at that height till they rise near the Osage, +from which place to the ancient fortification they again diminish +in size. Thence they continue higher till the Mandan +village, after which they are rather lower till the neighbourhood +of Muscleshell river, where they are met by the +Northern hills, which have advanced at a more uniform +height, varying from one hundred and fifty to two hundred +or three hundred feet. From this place to the mountains +the height of both is nearly the same, from three hundred +to five hundred feet, and the low grounds so narrow that the +traveller seems passing through a range of high country. +From Maria's river to the falls, the hills descend to the +height of about two or three hundred feet.</p> + +<p>Monday 19. The morning was cold, and the grass perfectly +whitened by the frost. We were engaged in preparing +packs and saddles to load the horses as soon as they +should arrive. A beaver was caught in a trap, but we were +disappointed in trying to catch trout in our net; we therefore +made a seine of willow brush, and by hauling it procured +a number of fine trout, and a species of mullet which +we had not seen before: it is about sixteen inches long, the +scales small; the nose long, obtusely pointed, and exceeding +the under jaw; the mouth opens with folds at the sides; it +has no teeth, and the tongue and palate is smooth. The +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_391" id="Pg_391" title="Pg_391">[391]</a></span>colour of its back and sides is a bluish brown, while the +belly is white: it has the faggot bones, whence we concluded +it to be of the mullet species. It is by no means so well flavoured +a fish as the trout, which are the same as those we +first saw at the falls, larger than the speckled trout of the +mountains in the Atlantic states, and equally well flavoured. +In the evening the hunters returned with two deer.</p> + +<p>Captain Clarke, in the meantime, proceeded through a +wide level valley, in which the chief pointed out a spot where +many of his tribe were killed in battle a year ago. The Indians +accompanied him during the day, and as they had nothing +to eat, he was obliged to feed them from his own stores, +the hunters not being able to kill any thing. Just as he was +entering the mountains, he met an Indian with two mules and +a Spanish saddle, who was so polite as to offer one of them +to him to ride over the hills. Being on foot, captain Clarke +accepted his offer and gave him a waistcoat as a reward for +his civility. He encamped for the night on a small stream, +and the next morning,</p> + +<p>Tuesday, August 20, he set out at six o'clock. In passing +through a continuation of the hilly broken country, he +met several parties of Indians. On coming near the camp, +which had been removed since we left them two miles higher +up the river, Cameahwait requested that the party should +halt. This was complied with: a number of Indians came out +from the camp, and with great ceremony several pipes were +smoked. This being over captain Clarke was conducted to +a large leathern lodge prepared for his party in the middle +of the encampment, the Indians having only shelters of willow +bushes. A few dried berries, and one salmon, the only +food the whole village could contribute, were then presented +to him; after which he proceeded to repeat in council, +what had been already told them, the purposes of his visit; +urged them to take their horses over and assist in transporting +our baggage, and expressed a wish to obtain a guide to +examine the river. This was explained and enforced to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_392" id="Pg_392" title="Pg_392">[392]</a></span>whole village by Cameahwait, and an old man was pointed out +who was said to know more of their geography to the north +than any other person, and whom captain Clarke engaged to +accompany him. After explaining his views he distributed a +few presents, the council was ended, and nearly half the village +set out to hunt the antelope, but returned without success.</p> + +<p>Captain Clarke in the meantime made particular inquiries +as to the situation of the country, and the possibility +of soon reaching a navigable water. The chief began by +drawing on the ground a delineation of the rivers, from +which it appeared that his information was very limited. +The river on which the camp is he divided into two branches +just above us, which, as he indicated by the opening of +the mountains, were in view: he next made it discharge itself +into a larger river ten miles below, coming from the +southwest: the joint stream continued one day's march to +the northwest, and then inclined to the westward for two +day's march farther. At that place he placed several heaps +of sand on each side, which, as he explained them, represented, +vast mountains of rock always covered with snow, in +passing through which the river was so completely hemmed +in by the high rocks, that there was no possibility of travelling +along the shore; that the bed of the river was obstructed +by sharp-pointed rocks, and such its rapidity, that as far as +the eye could reach it presented a perfect column of foam. +The mountains he said were equally inaccessible, as neither +man nor horse could cross them; that such being the state +of the country neither he nor any of his nation had ever attempted +to go beyond the mountains. Cameahwait said also +that he had been informed by the Chopunnish, or pierced-nose +Indians, who reside on this river west of the mountains, +that it ran a great way towards the setting sun, and +at length lost itself in a great lake of water which was ill-tasted, +and where the white men lived. An Indian belonging +to a band of Shoshonees who live to the southwest, and +who happened to be at camp, was then brought in, and inquiries +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_393" id="Pg_393" title="Pg_393">[393]</a></span>made of him as to the situation of the country in +that direction: this he described in terms scarcely less terrible +than those in which Cameahwait had represented the +west. He said that his relations lived at the distance of +twenty days' march from this place, on a course a little to +the west of south and not far from the whites, with whom +they traded for horses, mules, cloth, metal, beads, and the +shells here worn as ornaments, and which are those of a +species of pearl oyster. In order to reach his country we +should be obliged during the first seven days to climb over +steep rocky mountains where there was no game, and we +should find nothing but roots for subsistence. Even for these +however we should be obliged to contend with a fierce warlike +people, whom he called the Broken-moccasin, or moccasin +with holes, who lived like bears in holes, and fed on +roots and the flesh of such horses as they could steal or +plunder from those who passed through the mountains. So +rough indeed was the passage, that the feet of the horses +would be wounded in such a manner that many of them would +be unable to proceed. The next part of the route was for +ten days through a dry parched desert of sand, inhabited by +no animal which would supply us with subsistence, and as +the sun had now scorched up the grass and dried up the +small pools of water which are sometimes scattered through +this desert in the spring, both ourselves and our horses +would perish for want of food and water. About the middle +of this plain a large river passes from southeast to northwest, +which, though navigable, afforded neither timber nor +salmon. Three or four days' march beyond this plain his +relations lived, in a country tolerably fertile and partially +covered with timber, on another large river running in the +same direction as the former; that this last discharges itself +into a third large river, on which resided many numerous +nations, with whom his own were at war, but whether this +last emptied itself into the great or stinking lake, as they +called the ocean, he did not know: that from his country to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_394" id="Pg_394" title="Pg_394">[394]</a></span>the stinking lake was a great distance, and that the route to +it, taken by such of his relations as had visited it, was up +the river on which they lived, and over to that on which +the white people lived, and which they knew discharged itself +into the ocean. This route he advised us to take, but +added, that we had better defer the journey till spring, when +he would himself conduct us. This account persuaded us +that the streams of which he spoke were southern branches +of the Columbia, heading with the Rio des Apostolos, and +Rio Colorado, and that the route which he mentioned was +to the gulf of California: captain Clarke therefore told him +that this road was too much towards the south for our purpose, +and then requested to know if there was no route on the +left of the river where we now are, by which we might intercept +it below the mountains; but he knew of none except +that through the barren plains, which he said joined the +mountains on that side, and through which it was impossible +to pass at this season, even if we were fortunate enough to +escape the Broken-moccasin Indians. Captain Clarke recompensed +the Indian by a present of a knife, with which +he seemed much gratified, and now inquired of Cameahwait +by what route the Pierced-nose Indians, who he said lived +west of the mountains, crossed over to the Missouri: this he +said was towards the north, but that the road was a very +bad one; that during the passage he had been told they suffered +excessively from hunger, being obliged to subsist for +many days on berries alone, there being no game in that +part of the mountains, which were broken and rocky, and +so thickly covered with timber that they could scarcely pass. +Surrounded by difficulties as all the other routes are, this +seems to be the most practicable of all the passages by land, +since, if the Indians can pass the mountains with their women +and children, no difficulties which they could encounter +could be formidable to us; and if the Indians below the +mountains are so numerous as they are represented to be, +they must have some means of subsistence equally within +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_395" id="Pg_395" title="Pg_395">[395]</a></span>our power. They tell us indeed that the nations to the westward +subsist principally on fish and roots, and that their +only game were a few elk, deer, and antelope, there being +no buffaloe west of the mountain. The first inquiry however +was to ascertain the truth of their information relative +to the difficulty of descending the river: for this purpose +captain Clarke set out at three o'clock in the afternoon, accompanied +by the guide and all his men, except one whom +he left with orders to purchase a horse and join him as soon +as possible. At the distance of four miles he crossed the +river, and eight miles from the camp halted for the night +at a small stream. The road which he followed was a beaten +path through a wide rich meadow, in which were several +old lodges. On the route he met a number of men, women, +and children, as well as horses, and one of the men who appeared +to possess some consideration turned back with him, +and observing a woman with three salmon obtained them +from her, and presented them to the party. Captain Clarke +shot a mountain cock or cock of the plains, a dark brown bird +larger than the dunghill fowl, with a long and pointed tail, +and a fleshy protuberance about the base of the upper chop, +something like that of the turkey, though without the snout. +In the morning,</p> + +<p>Wednesday 21, he resumed his march early, and at the +distance of five miles reached an Indian lodge of brush, inhabited +by seven families of Shoshonees. They behaved +with great civility, gave the whole party as much boiled +salmon as they could eat, and added as a present several dried +salmon and a considerable quantity of chokecherries. After +smoking with them all he visited the fish weir, which +was about two hundred yards distant; the river was here divided +by three small islands, which occasioned the water to +pass along four channels. Of these three were narrow, and +stopped by means of trees which were stretched across, and +supported by willow stakes, sufficiently near each other to +prevent the passage of the fish. About the centre of each was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_396" id="Pg_396" title="Pg_396">[396]</a></span>placed a basket formed of willows, eighteen or twenty feet +in length, of a cylindrical form, and terminating in a conic +shape at its lower extremity; this was situated with its +mouth upwards, opposite to an aperture in the weir. The +main channel of the water was then conducted to this weir, +and as the fish entered it they were so entangled with each +other that they could not move, and were taken out by untying +the small end of the willow basket. The weir in the +main channel was formed in a manner somewhat different; +there were in fact two distinct weirs formed of poles and +willow sticks quite across the river, approaching each other +obliquely with an aperture in each side near the angle. This +is made by tying a number of poles together at the top, in +parcels of three, which were then set up in a triangular form +at the base, two of the poles being in the range desired for +the weir, and the third down the stream. To these poles +two ranges of other poles are next lashed horizontally, with +willow bark and wythes, and willow sticks joined in with +these crosswise, so as to form a kind of wicker-work from +the bottom of the river to the height of three or four feet +above the surface of the water. This is so thick as to prevent +the fish from passing, and even in some parts with the +help of a little gravel and some stone enables them to give +any direction which they wish to the water. These two weirs +being placed near to each other, one for the purpose of catching +the fish as they ascend, the other as they go down the +river, is provided with two baskets made in the form already +described, and which are placed at the apertures of the weir. +After examining these curious objects, he returned to the +lodges, and soon passed the river to the left, where an Indian +brought him a tomahawk which he said he had found in the +grass, near the lodge where captain Lewis had staid on his +first visit to the village. This was a tomahawk which had +been missed at the time, and supposed to be stolen; it was +however the only article which had been lost in our intercourse +with the nation, and as even that was returned the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_397" id="Pg_397" title="Pg_397">[397]</a></span>inference is highly honourable to the integrity of the Shoshonees. +On leaving the lodges captain Clarke crossed to +the left side of the river, and despatched five men to the forks +of it, in search of the man left behind yesterday, who procured +a horse and passed by another road as they learnt, to +the forks. At the distance of fourteen miles they killed a +very large salmon, two and a half feet long, in a creek six +miles below the forks: and after travelling about twenty +miles through the valley, following the course of the river, +which runs nearly northwest, halted in a small meadow on +the right side, under a cliff of rocks. Here they were joined +by the five men who had gone in quest of Crusatte. They +had been to the forks of the river, where the natives resort +in great numbers for the purpose of gigging fish, of which +they made our men a present of five fresh salmon. In addition +to this food, one deer was killed to-day. The western +branch of this river is much larger than the eastern, and after +we passed the junction we found the river about one hundred +yards in width, rapid and shoaly, but containing only a +small quantity of timber. As captain Lewis was the first +white man who visited its waters, captain Clarke gave it the +name of Lewis's river. The low grounds through which he +had passed to-day were rich and wide, but at his camp this +evening the hills begin to assume a formidable aspect. The +cliff under which he lay is of a reddish brown colour, the rocks +which have fallen from it are a dark brown flintstone. Near the +place are gullies of white sandstone, and quantities of a fine +sand, of a snowy whiteness: the mountains on each side are +high and rugged, with some pine trees scattered over them.</p> + +<p>Thursday 22. He soon began to perceive that the Indian +accounts had not exaggerated: at the distance of a mile he +passed a small creek, and the points of four mountains, which +were rocky, and so high that it seemed almost impossible to +cross them with horses. The road lay over the sharp fragments +of rocks which had fallen from the mountains, and +were strewed in heaps for miles together, yet the horses altogether +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_398" id="Pg_398" title="Pg_398">[398]</a></span>unshod, travelled across them as fast as the men, +and without detaining them a moment. They passed two +bold-running streams, and reached the entrance of a small +river, where a few Indian families resided. They had not been +previously acquainted with the arrival of the whites, the +guide was behind, and the wood so thick that we came upon +them unobserved, till at a very short distance. As soon as +they saw us, the women and children fled in great consternation; +the men offered us every thing they had, the fish on +the scaffolds, the dried berries and the collars of elk's tushes +worn by the children. We took only a small quantity of +the food, and gave them in return some small articles which +conduced very much to pacify them. The guide now coming +up, explained to them who we were, and the object of our +visit, which seemed to relieve the fears, but still a number +of the women and children did not recover from their +fright, but cryed during our stay, which lasted about an +hour. The guide, whom we found a very intelligent friendly +old man, informed us that up this river there was a road +which led over the mountains to the Missouri. On resuming +his route, he went along the steep side of a mountain about +three miles, and then reached the river near a small island, +at the lower part of which he encamped; he here attempted +to gig some fish, but could only obtain one small salmon. The +river is here shoal and rapid, with many rocks scattered in +various directions through its bed. On the sides of the +mountains are some scattered pines, and of those on the left +the tops are covered with them; there are however but few +in the low grounds through which they passed, indeed they +have seen only a single tree fit to make a canoe, and even +that was small. The country has an abundant growth of berries, +and we met several women and children gathering them +who bestowed them upon us with great liberality. Among +the woods captain Clarke observed a species of woodpecker, +the beak and tail of which were white, the wings black, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_399" id="Pg_399" title="Pg_399">[399]</a></span>every other part of the body of a dark brown; its size was +that of the robin, and it fed on the seeds of the pine.</p> + +<p>Friday 23. Captain Clarke set off very early, but as his +route lay along the steep side of a mountain, over irregular +and broken masses of rocks, which wounded the horses' +feet, he was obliged to proceed slowly. At the distance of +four miles he reached the river, but the rocks here became +so steep, and projected so far into the river, that there was +no mode of passing, except through the water. This he +did for some distance, though the river was very rapid, and +so deep that they were forced to swim their horses. After +following the edge of the water for about a mile under this +steep cliff, he reached a small meadow, below which the +whole current of the river beat against the right shore on +which he was, and which was formed of a solid rock perfectly +inaccessible to horses. Here too, the little track +which he had been pursuing terminated. He therefore resolved +to leave the horses and the greater part of the men +at this place, and examine the river still further, in order +to determine if there were any possibility of descending it +in canoes. Having killed nothing except a single goose to-day, +and the whole of our provision being consumed last +evening, it was by no means advisable to remain any length +of time where they were. He now directed the men to fish +and hunt at this place till his return, and then with his guide +and three men he proceeded, clambering over immense +rocks, and along the side of lofty precipices which bordered +the river, when at about twelve miles distance he reached +a small meadow, the first he had seen on the river since he +left his party. A little below this meadow, a large creek +twelve yards wide, and of some depth, discharges itself from +the north. Here were some recent signs of an Indian encampment, +and the tracks of a number of horses, who must +have come along a plain Indian path, which he now saw +following the course of the creek. This stream his guide +said led towards a large river running to the north, and was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_400" id="Pg_400" title="Pg_400">[400]</a></span>frequented by another nation for the purpose of catching +fish. He remained here two hours, and having taken +some small fish, made a dinner on them with the addition +of a few berries. From the place where he had +left the party, to the mouth of this creek, it presents +one continued rapid, in which are five shoals, neither of +which could be passed with loaded canoes; and the baggage +must therefore be transported for a considerable distance +over the steep mountains, where it would be impossible to +employ horses for the relief of the men. Even the empty +canoes must be let down the rapids by means of cords, and +not even in that way without great risk both to the canoes +as well as to the men. At one of these shoals, indeed the +rocks rise so perpendicularly from the water as to leave no +hope of a passage or even a portage without great labour +in removing rocks, and in some instances cutting away the +earth. To surmount these difficulties would exhaust the +strength of the party, and what is equally discouraging +would waste our time and consume our provisions, of neither +of which have we much to spare. The season is now +far advanced, and the Indians tell us we shall shortly have +snow: the salmon too have so far declined that the natives +themselves are hastening from the country, and not an animal +of any kind larger than a pheasant or a squirrel, and +of even these a few only will then be seen in this part of +the mountains: after which we shall be obliged to rely on +our own stock of provisions, which will not support us more +than ten days. These circumstances combine to render a +passage by water impracticable in our present situation. +To descend the course of the river on horseback is the +other alternative, and scarcely a more inviting one. The +river is so deep that there are only a few places where it +can be forded, and the rocks approach so near the water as +to render it impossible to make a route along the waters' +edge. In crossing the mountains themselves we should +have to encounter, besides their steepness, one barren surface +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_401" id="Pg_401" title="Pg_401">[401]</a></span>of broken masses of rock, down which in certain seasons +the torrents sweep vast quantities of stone into the +river. These rocks are of a whitish brown, and towards +the base of a gray colour, and so hard, that on striking +them with steel, they yield a fire like flint. This sombre +appearance is in some places scarcely relieved by a single +tree, though near the river and on the creeks there is more +timber, among which are some tall pine: several of these +might be made into canoes, and by lashing two of them together, +one of tolerable size might be formed.</p> + +<p>After dinner he continued his route, and at the distance +of half a mile passed another creek about five yards +wide. Here his guide informed him that by ascending the +creek for some distance he would have a better road, and +cut off a considerable bend of the river towards the south. +He therefore pursued a well-beaten Indian track up this +creek for about six miles, when leaving the creek to the +right he passed over a ridge, and after walking a mile again +met the river, where it flows through a meadow of about +eighty acres in extent. This they passed and then ascended +a high and steep point of a mountain, from which the +guide now pointed out where the river broke through the +mountains about twenty miles distant. Near the base of the +mountains a small river falls in from the south: this view +was terminated by one of the loftiest mountains captain +Clarke had ever seen, which was perfectly covered with +snow. Towards this formidable barrier the river went directly +on, and there it was, as the guide observed, that the +difficulties and dangers of which he and Cameahwait had +spoken commenced. After reaching the mountain, he said, +the river continues its course towards the north for many +miles, between high perpendicular rocks, which were scattered +through its bed: it then penetrated the mountain +through a narrow gap, on each side of which arose perpendicularly +a rock as high as the top of the mountain before +them; that the river then made a bend which concealed its +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_402" id="Pg_402" title="Pg_402">[402]</a></span>future course from view, and as it was alike impossible to +descend the river or clamber over that vast mountain, eternally +covered with snow, neither he nor any of his nation +had ever been lower than at a place where they could see +the gap made by the river on entering the mountain. To +that place he said he would conduct captain Clarke if he +desired it by the next evening. But he was in need of no +further evidence to convince him of the utter impracticability +of the route before him. He had already witnessed +the difficulties of part of the road, yet after all these dangers +his guide, whose intelligence and fidelity he could not +doubt, now assured him that the difficulties were only commencing, +and what he saw before him too clearly convinced +him of the Indian's veracity. He therefore determined to +abandon this route, and returned to the upper part of the +last creek we had passed, and reaching it an hour after +dark encamped for the night: on this creek he had seen in +the morning an Indian road coming in from the north. Disappointed +in finding a route by water, captain Clarke now +questioned his guide more particularly as to the direction +of this road which he seemed to understand perfectly. He +drew a map on the sand, and represented this road as well +as that we passed yesterday on Berry creek as both leading towards +two forks of the same great river, where resided a nation +called Tushepaws, who having no salmon on their river, +came by these roads to the fish weirs on Lewis's river. He +had himself been among these Tushepaws, and having once +accompanied them on a fishing party to another river he +had there seen Indians who had come across the rocky +mountains. After a great deal of conversation, or rather +signs, and a second and more particular map from his guide, +captain Clarke felt persuaded that his guide knew of a road +from the Shoshonee village they had left, to the great river +to the north, without coming so low down as this on a route +impracticable for horses. He was desirous of hastening +his return, and therefore set out early,</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_403" id="Pg_403" title="Pg_403">[403]</a></span>Saturday 24, and after descending the creek to the river, +stopped to breakfast on berries in the meadow above the +second creek. He then went on, but unfortunately fell from +a rock and injured his leg very much; he however walked on +as rapidly as he could, and at four in the afternoon rejoined +his men. During his absence they had killed one of the +mountain cocks, a few pheasants, and some small fish, on +which with haws and serviceberries they had subsisted. +Captain Clarke immediately sent forward a man on horseback +with a note to captain Lewis, apprising him of the result +of his inquiries, and late in the afternoon set out with +the rest of the party and encamped at the distance of two +miles. The men were much disheartened at the bad prospect +of escaping from the mountains, and having nothing to +eat but a few berries which have made several of them sick, +they all passed a disagreeable night, which was rendered +more uncomfortable by a heavy dew.</p> + +<p>Sunday 25. The want of provisions urged captain Clarke +to return as soon as possible; he therefore set out early, and +halted an hour in passing the Indian camp near the fish weirs. +These people treated them with great kindness, and though +poor and dirty they willingly give what little they possess; +they gave the whole party boiled salmon and dried berries, +which were not however in sufficient quantities to appease +their hunger. They soon resumed their old road, but as the +abstinence or strange diet had given one of the men a very severe +illness, they were detained very much on his account, +and it was not till late in the day they reached the cliff under +which they had encamped on the twenty-first. They immediately +began to fish and hunt, in order to procure a meal. +We caught several small fish, and by means of our guide, obtained +two salmon from a small party of women and children, +who, with one man, were going below to gather berries. +This supplied us with about half a meal, but after dark we +were regaled with a beaver which one of the hunters brought +in. The other game seen in the course of the day were one +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_404" id="Pg_404" title="Pg_404">[404]</a></span>deer, and a party of elk among the pines on the sides of +the mountains.</p> + +<p>Monday 26. The morning was fine, and three men were +despatched ahead to hunt, while the rest were detained until +nine o'clock, in order to retake some horses which had +strayed away during the night. They then proceeded along +the route by the forks of the river, till they reached the lower +Indian camp where they first were when we met them. +The whole camp immediately flocked around him with great +appearance of cordiality, but all the spare food of the village +did not amount to more than two salmon, which they +gave to captain Clarke, who distributed them among his +men. The hunters had not been able to kill any thing, nor +had captain Clarke or the greater part of the men any food +during the twenty-four hours, till towards evening one of +them shot a salmon in the river, and a few small fish were +caught, which furnished them with a scanty meal. The +only animals they had seen were a few pigeons, some very +wild hares, a great number of the large black grasshopper, +and a quantify of ground lizards.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 27. The men, who were engaged last night in +mending their moccasins, all except one, went out hunting, +but no game was to be procured. One of the men however +killed a small salmon, and the Indians made a present of +another, on which the whole party made a very slight breakfast. +These Indians, to whom this life is familiar, seem +contented, although they depend for subsistence on the scanty +productions of the fishery. But our men who are used to +hardships, but have been accustomed to have the first wants +of nature regularly supplied, feel very sensibly their wretched +situation; their strength is wasting away; they begin to +express their apprehensions of being without food in a country +perfectly destitute of any means of supporting life, except +a few fish. In the course of the day an Indian brought +into the camp five salmon, two of which captain Clarke +bought, and made a supper for the party.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_405" id="Pg_405" title="Pg_405">[405]</a></span>Wednesday 28. There was a frost again this morning. The +Indians gave the party two salmon out of several which they +caught in their traps, and having purchased two more, the +party was enabled to subsist on them during the day. A camp +of about forty Indians from the west fork passed us to-day, +on their route to the eastward. Our prospect of provisions +is getting worse every day: the hunters who had ranged +through the country in every direction where game might be +reasonably expected, have seen nothing. The fishery is +scarcely more productive, for an Indian who was out all +day with his gig killed only one salmon. Besides the four +fish procured from the Indians, captain Clarke obtained some +fishroe in exchange for three small fish-hooks, the use of +which he taught them, and which they very readily comprehended. +All the men who are not engaged in hunting, are +occupied in making pack-saddles for the horses which captain +Lewis informed us he had bought.</p> + +<p>August 20. Two hunters were despatched early in the +morning, but they returned without killing any thing, and +the only game we procured was a beaver, who was caught +last night in a trap which he carried off two miles before he +was found. The fur of this animal is as good as any we +have ever seen, nor does it in fact appear to be ever out of +season on the upper branches of the Missouri. This beaver, +with several dozen of fine trout, gave us a plentiful subsistence +for the day. The party were occupied chiefly in making +pack-saddles, in the manufacture of which we supply the place +of nails and boards, by substituting for the first thongs of raw +hide, which answer very well; and for boards we use the +handles of our oars, and the plank of some boxes, the contents +of which we empty into sacks of raw hides made for +the purpose. The Indians who visit us behave with the +greatest decorum, and the women are busily engaged in making +and mending the moccasins of the party. As we had +still some superfluous baggage which would be too heavy to +carry across the mountains, it became necessary to make a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_406" id="Pg_406" title="Pg_406">[406]</a></span>cache or deposit. For this purpose we selected a spot on the +bank of the river, three quarters of a mile below the camp, +and three men were set to dig it, with a sentinel in the neighbourhood, +who was ordered if the natives were to straggle +that way, to fire a signal for the workmen to desist and separate. +Towards evening the cache was completed without +being perceived by the Indians, and the packages prepared +for deposit.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_407" id="Pg_407" title="Pg_407">[407]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Contest between Drewyer and a Shoshonee—The fidelity and honour of that +tribe—The party set out on their journey—The conduct of Cameahwait reproved, +and himself reconciled—The easy parturition of the Shoshonee women—History +of this nation—Their terror of the Pawkees—Their government +and family economy in their treatment of their women—Their +complaints of Spanish treachery—Description of their weapons of warfare—Their +curious mode of making a shield—The caparison of their horses—The dress +of the men and of the women particularly described—Their mode of acquiring +new names.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>Wednesday, August 21. The weather was very cold; +the water which stood in the vessels exposed to the air being +covered with ice a quarter of an inch thick: the ink +freezes in the pen, and the low grounds are perfectly whitened +with frost: after this the day proved excessively warm. +The party were engaged in their usual occupations, and +completed twenty saddles with the necessary harness, all +prepared to set off as soon as the Indians should arrive. +Our two hunters who were despatched early in the morning +have not returned, so that we were obliged to encroach on +our pork and corn, which we consider as the last resource +when our casual supplies of game fail. After dark we carried +our baggage to the cache, and deposited what we +thought too cumbrous to carry with us: a small assortment +of medicines, and all the specimens of plants, seeds, and +minerals, collected since leaving the falls of the Missouri. +Late at night Drewyer, one of the hunters, returned with a +fawn and a considerable quantity of Indian plunder, which +he had taken by way of reprisal. While hunting this morning +in the Shoshonee cove, he came suddenly upon an +Indian camp, at which were an old man, a young one, three +women, and a boy: they showed no surprise at the sight of +him and he therefore rode up to them, and after turning +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_408" id="Pg_408" title="Pg_408">[408]</a></span>his horse loose to graze sat down and began to converse with +them by signs. They had just finished a repast on some +roots, and in about twenty minutes one of the women spoke +to the rest of the party, who immediately went out, collected +their horses and began to saddle them. Having rested +himself, Drewyer thought that he would continue his hunt, +and rising went to catch his horse who was at a short distance, +forgetting at the moment to take up his rifle. He +had scarcely gone more than fifty paces when the Indians +mounted their horses, the young man snatched up the rifle, +and leaving all their baggage, whipt their horses, and set +off at full speed towards the passes of the mountains: Drewyer +instantly jumped on his horse and pursued them. After +running about ten miles the horses of the women nearly gave +out, and the women finding Drewyer gain on them raised +dreadful cries, which induced the young man to slacken his +pace, and being mounted on a very fleet horse rode round +them at a short distance. Drewyer now came up with the +women, and by signs persuaded them that he did not mean to +hurt them: they then stopped, and as the young man came +towards them Drewyer asked him for his rifle, but the only +part of the answer which he understood was Pahkee, the +name by which they call their enemies, the Minnetarees of +fort de Prairie. While they were thus engaged in talking, +Drewyer watched his opportunity, and seeing the Indian off +his guard, galloped up to him and seized his rifle: the Indian +struggled for some time, but finding Drewyer getting +too strong for him, had the presence of mind to open the +pan and let the priming fall out; he then let go his hold, +and giving his horse the whip escaped at full speed, leaving +the women to the mercy of the conqueror. Drewyer then +returned to where he had first seen them, where he found +that their baggage had been left behind, and brought it to +camp with him.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 22. This morning early two men were sent +to complete the covering of the cache, which could not be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_409" id="Pg_409" title="Pg_409">[409]</a></span>so perfectly done during the night as to elude the search of +the Indians. On examining the spoils which Drewyer had +obtained, they were found to consist of several dressed and +undressed skins; two bags wove with the bark of the silk grass, +each containing a bushel of dried serviceberries, and +about the same quantity of roots; an instrument made of bone +for manufacturing the flints into heads for arrows; and a +number of flints themselves: these were much of the same +colour and nearly as transparent as common black glass, +and when cut detached itself into flakes, leaving a very +sharp edge.</p> + +<p>The roots were of three kinds, and folded separate from +each in hides of buffaloe made into parchment. The first is +a fusiform root six inches long, and about the size of a man's +finger at the largest end, with radicles larger than is usual +in roots of the fusiform sort: the rind is white and thin, the +body is also white, mealy, and easily reducible, by pounding, +to a substance resembling flour, like which it thickens +by boiling, and is of an agreeable flavour: it is eaten frequently +in its raw state either green or dried. The second +species was much mutilated, but appeared to be fibrous; it +is of a cylindrical form about the size of a small quill, hard +and brittle. A part of the rind which had not been detached +in the preparation was hard and black, but the rest +of the root was perfectly white; this the Indiana informed +us was always boiled before eating; and on making the experiment +we found that it became perfectly soft, but had +a bitter taste, which was nauseous to our taste, but which +the Indians seemed to relish; for on giving the roots to them +they were very heartily swallowed.</p> + +<p>The third species was a small nut about the size of a +nutmeg, of an irregularly rounded form, something like the +smallest of the Jerusalem artichokes, which, on boiling, we +found them to resemble also in flavour, and is certainly the +best root we have seen in use among the Indians. On inquiring +of the Indians from what plant these roots were +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_410" id="Pg_410" title="Pg_410">[410]</a></span>procured, they informed us that none of them grew near this +place.</p> + +<p>The men were chiefly employed in dressing the skins belonging +to the party who accompanied captain Clarke. +About eleven o'clock Chaboneau and his wife returned with +Cameahwait, accompanied by about fifty men with their +women and children. After they had encamped near us and +turned loose their horses, we called a council of all the +chiefs and warriors and addressed them in a speech; additional +presents were then distributed, particularly to the +two second chiefs, who had agreeably to their promises exerted +themselves in our favour. The council was then adjourned, +and all the Indians were treated with an abundant +meal of boiled Indian corn and beans. The poor wretches, +who had no animal food and scarcely any thing but a few +fish, had been almost starved, and received this new luxury +with great thankfulness. Out of compliment to the chief we +gave him a few dried squashes which we had brought from +the Mandans, and he declared it was the best food he had +ever tasted except sugar, a small lump of which he had received +from his sister: he now declared how happy they +should all be to live in a country which produced so many +good things, and we told him that it would not be long before +the white men would put it in their power to live below +the mountains, where they might themselves cultivate all +these kinds of food instead of wandering in the mountains. +He appeared to be much pleased with this information, and +the whole party being now in excellent temper after their +repast, we began our purchase of horses. We soon obtained +five very good ones on very reasonable terms; that is, by +giving for each merchandise which cost us originally about +six dollars. We have again to admire the perfect decency +and propriety of their conduct; for although so numerous, +they do not attempt to crowd round our camp or take any +thing which they see lying about, and whenever they borrow +knives or kettles or any other article from the men, they +return them with great fidelity.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_411" id="Pg_411" title="Pg_411">[411]</a></span>Towards evening we formed a drag of bushes, and in +about two hours caught five hundred and twenty-eight very +good fish most of them large trout. Among them we observed +for the first time ten or twelve trout of a white or +silvery colour, except on the back and head where they are +of a bluish cast: in appearance and shape they resemble +exactly the speckled trout, except that they are not quite so +large, though the scales are much larger, and the flavour +equally good. The greater part of the fish was distributed +among the Indians.</p> + +<p>Friday 28. Our visitors seem to depend wholly on us +for food, and as the state of our provisions obliges us to be +careful of our remaining stock of corn and flour, this +was an additional reason for urging our departure; but Cameahwait +requested us to wait till the arrival of another +party of his nation who were expected to-day. Knowing +that it would be in vain to oppose his wish, we consented, +and two hunters were sent out with orders to go further up +the southeast fork than they had hitherto been. At the +same time the chief was informed of the low state of our +provisions, and advised to send out his young men to hunt. +This he recommended them to do, and most of them set out: +we then sunk our canoes by means of stones to the bottom +of the river, a situation which better than any other secured +them against the effects of the high waters, and the frequent +fires of the plains; the Indians having promised not +to disturb them during our absence, a promise we believe +the more readily, as they are almost too lazy to take the +trouble of raising them for fire-wood. We were desirous +of purchasing some more horses, but they declined selling +any until we reached their camp in the mountains. +Soon after starting the Indian hunters discovered a mule +buck, and twelve of their horsemen pursued it, for four +miles. We saw the chase, which was very entertaining, and +at length they rode it down and killed it. This mule buck +was the largest deer of any kind we have seen, being nearly +as large as a doe elk. Besides this they brought in another +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_412" id="Pg_412" title="Pg_412">[412]</a></span>deer and three goats; but instead of a general distribution +of the meat, and such as we have hitherto seen among all +tribes of Indians, we observed that some families had a +large share, while others received none. On inquiring of +Cameahwait the reason of this custom, he said that meat +among them was scarce; that each hunter reserved what he +killed for the use of himself and his own family, none of the +rest having any claim on what he chose to keep. Our hunters +returned soon after with two mule deer and three common +deer, three of which we distributed among the families +who had received none of the game of their own hunters. +About three o'clock the expected party consisting of fifty +men, women and children arrived. We now learnt that +most of the Indians were on their way down the valley towards +the buffaloe country, and some anxiety to accompany +them appeared to prevail among those who had promised +to assist us in crossing the mountains. We ourselves were +not without some apprehension that they might leave us, +but as they continued to say that they would return with us +nothing was said upon the subject. We were, however, resolved +to move early in the morning; and therefore despatched +two men to hunt in the cove and leave the game on the +route we should pass to-morrow.</p> + +<p>Saturday 24. As the Indians who arrived yesterday had +a number of spare horses, we thought it probable they might +be willing to dispose of them, and desired the chief to speak +to them for that purpose. They declined giving any positive +answer, but requested to see the goods which we proposed +to exchange. We then produced some battle-axes +which we had made at fort Mandan, and a quantity of +knives; with both of which they appeared very much pleased; +and we were soon able to purchase three horses by giving +for each an axe, a knife, a hankerchief and a little paint. +To this we were obliged to add a second knife, a shirt, a handkerchief +and a pair of leggings; and such is the estimation in +which those animals are held, that even at this price, which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_413" id="Pg_413" title="Pg_413">[413]</a></span>was double that for a horse, the fellow who sold him took +upon himself great merit in having given away a mule to +us. They now said that they had no more horses for sale, +and as we had now nine of our own, two hired horses, and a +mule, we began loading them as heavily as was prudent, +and placing the rest on the shoulders of the Indian women, +left our camp at twelve o'clock. We were all on foot, except +Sacajawea, for whom her husband had purchased a horse +with some articles which we gave him for that purpose; an +Indian however had the politeness to offer captain Lewis one +of his horses to ride, which he accepted in order better to direct +the march of the party. We crossed the river below the +forks, directing our course towards the cove by the route +already passed, and had just reached the lower part of the +cove when an Indian rode up to captain Lewis to inform him +that one of his men was very sick, and unable to come on. +The party was immediately halted at a run which falls into +the creek on the left, and captain Lewis rode back two +miles, and found Wiser severely afflicted with the colic: by +giving him some of the essence of peppermint and laudanum, +he recovered sufficiently to ride the horse of captain +Lewis, who then rejoined the party on foot. When he arrived +he found that the Indians who had been impatiently expecting +his return, at last unloaded their horses and turned +them loose, and had now made their camp for the night. It +would have been fruitless to remonstrate, and not prudent +to excite any irritation, and therefore, although the sun +was still high, and we had made only six miles, we thought +it best to remain with them: after we had encamped there +fell a slight shower of rain. One of the men caught several +fine trout; but Drewyer had been sent out to hunt without +having killed any thing. We therefore gave a little +corn to those of the Indians who were actually engaged in +carrying our baggage, and who had absolutely nothing to +eat. We also advised Cameahwait, as we could not supply +all his people with provisions, to recommend to all who +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_414" id="Pg_414" title="Pg_414">[414]</a></span>were not assisting us, to go on before us to their camp. This +he did: but in the morning,</p> + +<p>Sunday 25, a few only followed his advice, the rest accompanying +us at some distance on each side. We set out at +sunrise and after going seventeen miles halted for dinner +within two miles of the narrow pass in the mountains. The +Indians who were on the sides of our party had started some +antelopes, but were obliged after a pursuit of several hours +to abandon the chase: our hunters had in the meantime +brought in three deer, the greater part of which was distributed +among the Indians. Whilst at dinner we learnt by +means of Sacajawea, that the young men who left us this +morning, carried a request from the chief, that the village +would break up its encampment and meet this party to-morrow, +when they would all go down the Missouri into the +buffaloe country. Alarmed at this new caprice of the Indians +which, if not counteracted, threatened to leave ourselves +and our baggage on the mountains, or even if we reached the +waters of the Columbia, prevent our obtaining horses to go +on further, captain Lewis immediately called the three +chiefs together. After smoking a pipe he asked them if +they were men of their words, and if we can rely on their +promises. They readily answered in the affirmative. He +then asked, if they had not agreed to assist us in carrying +our baggage over the mountains. To this they also answered +yes; and why then, said he, have you requested your people +to meet us to-morrow, where it will be impossible for +us to trade for horses, as you promised we should. If, he +continued, you had not promised to help us in transporting +our goods over the mountains, we should not have attempted +it, but have returned down the river, after which no +white men would ever have come into your country. If you +wish the whites to be your friends, and to bring you arms +and protect you from your enemies, you should never promise +what you do not mean to perform: when I first met +you, you doubted what I said, yet you afterwards saw that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_415" id="Pg_415" title="Pg_415">[415]</a></span>I told you the truth. How therefore can you doubt what I +now tell you; you see that I have divided amongst you the +meat which my hunters kill, and I promise to give all who +assist us a share of whatever we have to eat. If therefore +you intend to keep your promise, send one of the young men +immediately to order the people to remain at the village till +we arrive.</p> + +<p>The two inferior chiefs then said, that they had wished +to keep their words and to assist us; that they had not sent +for the people, but on the contrary had disapproved of the +measure which was done wholly by the first chief. Cameahwait +remained silent for some time: at last he said that +he knew he had done wrong, but that seeing his people all in +want of provisions, he had wished to hasten their departure +for the country where their wants might be supplied. He +however now declared, that having passed his word he would +never violate it, and counter orders were immediately sent +to the village by a young man, to whom we gave a handkerchief +in order to ensure despatch and fidelity.</p> + +<p>This difficulty being now adjusted, our march was resumed +with an unusual degree of alacrity on the part of the +Indians. We passed a spot, where six years ago the <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'Shosohnees'.">Shoshonees</ins> +suffered a very severe defeat from the Minnetarees; +and late in the evening we reached the upper part of the +cove where the creek enters the mountains. The part of +the cove on the northeast side of the creek has lately been +burnt, most probably as a signal on some occasion. Here we +were joined by our hunters with a single deer, which captain +Lewis gave, as a proof of his sincerity, to the women +and children, and remained supperless himself. As we came +along we observed several large hares, some ducks, and +many of the cock of the plains: in the low grounds of the +cove were also considerable quantities of wild onions.</p> + +<p>Monday 26. The morning was excessively cold, and the +ice in our vessels was nearly a quarter of an inch in thickness: +we set out at sunrise, and soon reached the fountain of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_416" id="Pg_416" title="Pg_416">[416]</a></span>the Missouri, where we halted for a few minutes, and then +crossing the dividing ridge reached the fine spring where +captain Lewis had slept on the 12th in his first excursion +to the Shoshonee camp. The grass on the hill sides is perfectly +dry and parched by the sun, but near the spring was +a fine green grass: we therefore halted for dinner and turned +our horses to graze. To each of the Indians who were engaged +in carrying our baggage was distributed a pint of +corn, which they parched, then pounded, and made a sort +of soup. One of the women who had been leading two +of our pack horses halted at a rivulet about a mile behind, +and sent on the two horses by a female friend: on inquiring +of Cameahwait the cause of her detention, he answered with +great appearance of unconcern, that she had just stopped to +lie in, but would soon overtake us. In fact we were astonished +to see her in about an hour's time come on with her +new born infant and pass us on her way to the camp, apparently +in perfect health.</p> + +<p>This wonderful facility with which the Indian women +bring forth their children, seems rather some benevolent +gift of nature, in exempting them from pains which their +savage state would render doubly grievous, than any result +of habit. If as has been imagined, a pure dry air or a cold +and elevated country are obstacles to easy delivery, every +difficulty incident to that operation might be expected in +this part of the continent; nor can another reason, the habit +of carrying heavy burthens during pregnancy, be at all applicable +to the Shoshonee women, who rarely carry any +burdens, since their nation possesses an abundance of horses. +We have indeed been several times informed by those conversant +with Indian manners, and who asserted their knowledge +of the fact, that Indian women pregnant by white +men experience more difficulty in child-birth than when the +father is an Indian. If this account be true, it may contribute +to strengthen the belief, that the easy delivery of the +Indian women is wholly constitutional.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_417" id="Pg_417" title="Pg_417">[417]</a></span>The tops of the high irregular mountains to the westward +are still entirely covered with snow; and the coolness +which the air acquires in passing them, is a very agreeable +relief from the heat, which has dried up the herbage on the +sides of the hills. While we stopped, the women were busily +employed in collecting the root of a plant with which they +feed their children, who like their mothers are nearly half +starved and in a wretched condition. It is a species of fennel +which grows in the moist grounds; the radix is of the +knob kind, of a long ovate form, terminating in a single radicle, +the whole being three or four inches long, and the +thickest part about the size of a man's little finger: when +fresh, it is white, firm, and crisp; and when dried and pounded +makes a fine white meal. Its flavour is not unlike that of +aniseed, though less pungent. From one to four of these +knobbed roots are attached to a single stem which rises to +the height of three or four feet, and is jointed, smooth, cylindric, +and has several small peduncles, one at each joint +above the sheathing leaf. Its colour is a deep green, as is +also that of the leaf, which is sheathing, sessile, and <i>polipartite</i>, +the divisions being long and narrow. The flowers, +which are now in bloom, are small and numerous, with +white and umbellifferous petals: there are no root leaves. +As soon as the seeds have matured, the roots of the present +year as well as the stem decline, and are renewed in the succeeding +spring from the little knot which unites the roots. +The sunflower is also abundant here, and the seeds, which +are now ripe, are gathered in considerable quantities, and +after being pounded and rubbed between smooth stones, +form a kind of meal, which is a favourite dish among the +Indians.</p> + +<p>After dinner we continued our route and were soon met +by a party of young men on horseback, who turned with us +and went to the village. As soon as we were within sight of +it, Cameahwait requested that we would discharge our guns; +the men were therefore drawn up in a single rank, and gave +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_418" id="Pg_418" title="Pg_418">[418]</a></span>a running fire of two rounds, to the great satisfaction of the +Indians. We then proceeded to the encampment where we +arrived about six o'clock, and were conducted to the leathern +lodge in the centre of thirty-two others made of brush. The +baggage was arranged near this tent, which captain Lewis +occupied, and surrounded by those of the men so as to secure +it from pillage. This camp was in a beautiful smooth meadow +near the river, and about three miles above their camp +when we first visited the Indians. We here found Colter, +who had been sent by captain Clarke with a note apprising +us that there were no hopes of a passage by water, and that +the most practicable route seemed to be that mentioned by +his guide, towards the north. Whatever road we meant to +take, it was now necessary to provide ourselves with horses; +we therefore informed Cameahwait of our intention of +going to the great river beyond the mountains, and that we +would wish to purchase twenty more horses: he said the Minnetarees +had stolen a great number of their horses this spring, +but he still hoped they could spare us that number. In order +not to loose the present favourable moment, and to keep the +Indians as cheerful as possible, the violins were brought out +and our men danced to the great diversion of the Indians. +This mirth was the more welcome because our situation was +not precisely that which would most dispose us for gayety, for +we have only a little parched corn to eat, and our means of +subsistence or of success, depend on the wavering temper of +the natives, who may change their minds to-morrow.</p> + +<p>The Shoshonees are a small tribe of the nation called +Snake Indians, a vague denomination, which embraces at +once the inhabitants of the southern parts of the Rocky +mountains and of the plains on each side. The Shoshonees +with whom we now are, amount to about one hundred warriors, +and three times that number of women and children. +Within their own recollection they formerly lived in the +plains, but they have been driven into the mountains by the +Pawkees, or the roving Indians of the Sascatchawain, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_419" id="Pg_419" title="Pg_419">[419]</a></span>are now obliged to visit occasionally, and by stealth, the +country of their ancestors. Their lives are indeed migratory. +From the middle of May to the beginning of September, +they reside on the waters of the Columbia, where +they consider themselves perfectly secure from the Pawkees +who have never yet found their way to that retreat. +During this time they subsist chiefly on salmon, and as that +fish disappears on the approach of autumn, they are obliged +to seek subsistence elsewhere. They then cross the ridge +to the waters of the Missouri, down which they proceed +slowly and cautiously, till they are joined near the three +forks by other bands, either of their own nation or of the +Flatheads, with whom they associate against the common +enemy. Being now strong in numbers, they venture to hunt +buffaloe in the plains eastward of the mountains, near which +they spend the winter, till the return of the salmon invites +them to the Columbia. But such is their terror of the Pawkees, +that as long as they can obtain the scantiest subsistence, +they do not leave the interior of the mountains; and +as soon as they collect a large stock of dried meat, they +again retreat, and thus alternately obtaining their food at +the hazard of their lives, and hiding themselves to consume it. +In this loose and wandering existence they suffer the extremes +of want; for two thirds of the year they are forced to +live in the mountains, passing whole weeks without meat, +and with nothing to eat but a few fish and roots. Nor can +any thing be imagined more wretched than their condition +at the present time, when the salmon is fast retiring, when +roots are becoming scarce, and they have not yet acquired +strength to hazard an encounter with their enemies. So +insensible are they however to these calamities, that the +Shoshonees are not only cheerful but even gay; and their +character, which is more interesting than that of any Indians +we have seen, has in it much of the dignity of misfortune. +In their intercourse with strangers they are frank and communicative, +in their dealings perfectly fair, nor have we had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_420" id="Pg_420" title="Pg_420">[420]</a></span>during our stay with them, any reason to suspect that the +display of all our new and valuable wealth, has tempted +them into a single act of dishonesty. While they have generally +shared with us the little they possess, they have always +abstained from begging any thing from us. With +their liveliness of temper, they are fond of gaudy dresses, +and of all sorts of amusements, particularly to games of +hazard; and like most Indians fond of boasting of their own +warlike exploits, whether real or fictitious. In their conduct +towards ourselves, they were kind and obliging, and +though on one occasion they seemed willing to neglect us, +yet we scarcely knew how to blame the treatment by which +we suffered, when we recollected how few civilized chiefs +would have hazarded the comforts or the subsistence of +their people for the sake of a few strangers. This manliness +of character may cause or it may be formed by the nature +of their government, which is perfectly free from any +restraint. Each individual is his own master, and the only +control to which his conduct is subjected, is the advice of +a chief supported by his influence over the opinions of the +rest of the tribe. The chief himself is in fact no more than +the most confidential person among the warriors, a rank +neither distinguished by any external honor, nor invested +by any ceremony, but gradually acquired from the good +wishes of his companions and by superior merit. Such an +officer has therefore strictly no power; he may recommend or +advise or influence, but his commands have no effect on those +who incline to disobey, and who may at any time withdraw +from their voluntary allegiance. His shadowy authority which +cannot survive the confidence which supports it, often decays +with the personal vigour of the chief, or is transferred +to some more fortunate or favourite hero.</p> + +<p>In their domestic economy, the man is equally sovereign. +The man is the sole proprietor of his wives and daughters, +and can barter them away, or dispose of them in any manner +he may think proper. The children are seldom corrected; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_421" id="Pg_421" title="Pg_421">[421]</a></span>the boys, particularly, soon become their own masters; +they are never whipped, for they say that it breaks their spirit, +and that after being flogged they never recover their independence +of mind, even when they grow to manhood. A +plurality of wives is very common; but these are not generally +sisters, as among the Minnetarees and Mandans, but +are purchased of different fathers. The infant daughters +are often betrothed by the father to men who are grown, +either for themselves or for their sons, for whom they are +desirous of providing wives. The compensation to the +father is usually made in horses or mules; and the girl remains +with her parents till the age of puberty, which is thirteen +or fourteen, when she is surrendered to her husband. +At the same time the father often makes a present to the +husband equal to what he had formerly received as the +price of his daughter, though this return is optional with her +parent. Sacajawea had been contracted in this way before +she was taken prisoner, and when we brought her back, +her betrothed was still living. Although he was double the +age of Sacajawea, and had two other wives, he claimed her, +but on finding that she had a child by her new husband, +Chaboneau, he relinquished his pretensions and said he did +not want her.</p> + +<p>The chastity of the women does not appear to be held +in much estimation. The husband will for a trifling present +lend his wife for a night to a stranger, and the loan +may be protracted by increasing the value of the present. +Yet strange as it may seem, notwithstanding this facility, +any connexion of this kind not authorized by the husband, +is considered highly offensive and quite as disgraceful to +his character as the same licentiousness in civilized societies. +The Shoshonees are not so importunate in volunteering +the services of their wives as we found the Sioux were; +and indeed we observed among them some women who appeared +to be held in more respect than those of any nation +we had seen. But the mass of the females are condemned, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_422" id="Pg_422" title="Pg_422">[422]</a></span>as among all savage nations, to the lowest and most laborious +drudgery. When the tribe is stationary, they collect +the roots, and cook; they build the huts, dress the skins and +make clothing; collect the wood, and assist in taking care +of the horses on the route; they load the horses and have +the charge of all the baggage. The only business of the +man is to fight; he therefore takes on himself the care of +his horse, the companion of his warfare; but he will descend +to no other labour than to hunt and to fish. He would consider +himself degraded by being compelled to walk any distance; +and were he so poor as to possess only two horses, he would +ride the best of them, and leave the other for his wives and +children and their baggage; and if he has too many wives +or too much baggage for the horse, the wives have no alternative +but to follow him on foot; they are not however +often reduced to those extremities, for their stock of +horses is very ample. Notwithstanding their losses this +spring they still have at least seven hundred, among +which are about forty colts, and half that number of mules. +There are no horses here which can be considered as wild; +we have seen two only on this side of the Muscleshell river +which were without owners, and even those although shy, +showed every mark of having been once in the possession +of man. The original stock was procured from the Spaniards, +but they now raise their own. The horses are generally +very fine, of a good size, vigorous and patient of +fatigue as well as hunger. Each warrior has one or two +tied to a stake near his hut both day and night, so as to be +always prepared for action. The mules are obtained in the +course of trade from the Spaniards, with whose brands +several of them are marked, or stolen from them by the +frontier Indians. They are the finest animals of that kind +we have ever seen, and at this distance from the Spanish +colonies are very highly valued. The worst are considered +as worth the price of two horses, and a good mule cannot +be obtained for less than three and sometimes four horses.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_423" id="Pg_423" title="Pg_423">[423]</a></span>We also saw a bridle bit, stirrups and several other +articles which, like the mules, came from the Spanish colonies. +The Shoshonees say that they can reach those settlements +in ten days' march by the route of the Yellowstone +river; but we readily perceive that the Spaniards +are by no means favourites. They complain that the Spaniards +refuse to let them have fire arms under pretence +that these dangerous weapons will only induce them to kill +each other. In the meantime, say the Shoshonees, we are +left to the mercy of the Minnetarees, who having arms, +plunder them of their horses, and put them to death without +mercy. "But this should not be," said Cameahwait +fiercely, "if we had guns, instead of hiding ourselves in +the mountains and living like the bears on roots and berries, +we would then go down and live in the buffaloe country +in spite of our enemies, whom we never fear when we +meet on equal terms."</p> + +<p>As war is the chief occupation, bravery is the first virtue +among the Shoshonees. None can hope to be distinguished +without having given proofs of it, nor can there be +any preferment, or influence among the nation, without +some warlike achievement. Those important events which +give reputation to a warrior, and which entitle him to a +new name, are killing a white bear, stealing individually +the horses of the enemy, leading out a party who happen +to be successful either in plundering horses or destroying +the enemy, and lastly scalping a warrior. These acts seem +of nearly equal dignity, but the last, that of taking an enemy's +scalp, is an honour quite independent of the act of +vanquishing him. To kill your adversary is of no importance +unless the scalp is brought from the field of battle, +and were a warrior to slay any number of his enemies in +action, and others were to obtain the scalps or first touch +the dead, they would have all the honours, since they have +borne off the trophy.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_424" id="Pg_424" title="Pg_424">[424]</a></span>Although thus oppressed by the Minnetarees, the Shoshonees +are still a very military people. Their cold and rugged +country inures them to fatigue; their long abstinence +makes them support the dangers of mountain warfare, and +worn down as we saw them, by want of sustenance, have +a look of fierce and adventurous courage. The Shoshonee +warrior always fights on horseback; he possesses a few bad +guns, which are reserved exclusively for war, but his common +arms are the bow and arrow, a shield, a lance and a +weapon called by the Chippeways, by whom it was formerly +used, the poggamoggon. The bow is made of cedar or pine +covered on the outer side with sinews and glue. It is about +two and a half feet long, and does not differ in shape from +those used by the Sioux, Mandans and Minnetarees. Sometimes, +however, the bow is made of a single piece of the +horn of an elk, covered on the back like those of wood with +sinews and glue, and occasionally ornamented by a strand +wrought of porcupine quills and sinews, which is wrapped +round the horn near its two ends. The bows made of the +horns of the bighorn, are still more prized, and are formed +by cementing with glue flat pieces of the horn together, +covering the back with sinews and glue, and loading the +whole with an unusual quantity of ornaments. The arrows +resemble those of the other Indians except in being more +slender than any we have seen. They are contained, with +the implements for striking fire, in a narrow quiver formed +of different kinds of skin, though that of the otter seems to +be preferred. It is just long enough to protect the arrows +from the weather, and is worn on the back by means of a +strap passing over the right shoulder and under the left +arm. The shield is a circular piece of buffaloe hide about +two feet four or five inches in diameter, ornamented with +feathers, and a fringe round it of dressed leather, and +adorned or deformed with paintings of strange figures. The +buffaloe hide is perfectly proof against any arrow, but in +the minds of the Shoshonees, its power to protect them is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_425" id="Pg_425" title="Pg_425">[425]</a></span>chiefly derived from the virtues which are communicated +to it by the old men and jugglers. To make a shield is indeed +one of their most important ceremonies: it begins by a +feast to which all the warriors, old men and jugglers are +invited. After the repast a hole is dug in the ground about +eighteen inches in depth and of the same diameter as the +intended shield: into this hole red hot stones are thrown +and water poured over them, till they emit a very <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'stong'.">strong</ins> +hot steam. The buffaloe skin, which must be the entire +hide of a male two years old, and never suffered to dry since +it was taken from the animal, is now laid across the hole, +with the fleshy side to the ground, and stretched in every +direction by as many as can take hold of it. As the skin +becomes heated, the hair separates and is taken off by the +hand; till at last the skin is contracted into the compass designed +for the shield. It is then taken off and placed on a +hide prepared into parchment, and then pounded during the +rest of the festival by the bare heels of those who are invited +to it. This operation sometimes continues for several +days, after which it is delivered to the proprietor, and declared +by the old men and jugglers to be a security against +arrows; and provided the feast has been satisfactory, against +even the bullets of their enemies. Such is the delusion, +that many of the Indians implicitly believe that this ceremony +has given to the shield supernatural powers, and that +they have no longer to fear any weapons of their enemies.</p> + +<p>The paggamoggon is an instrument, consisting of a handle +twenty-two inches long, made of wood, covered with +dressed leather about the size of a whip-handle: at one end +is a thong of two inches in length, which is tied to a round +stone weighing two pounds and held in a cover of leather: at +the other end is a loop of the same material, which is passed +round the wrist so as to secure the hold of the instrument, +with which they strike a very severe blow.</p> + +<p>Besides these, they have a kind of armour something +like a coat of mail, which is formed by a great many folds +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_426" id="Pg_426" title="Pg_426">[426]</a></span>of dressed antelope skins, united by means of a mixture of +glue and sand. With this they cover their own bodies and +those of their horses, and find it impervious to the arrow.</p> + +<p>The caparison of their horses is a halter and a saddle: +the first is either a rope of six or seven strands of buffaloe +hair platted or twisted together, about the size of a man's +finger and of great strength; or merely a thong of raw hide, +made pliant by pounding and rubbing; though the first kind +is much preferred. The halter is very long, and is never +taken from the neck of the horse when in constant use. +One end of it is first tied round the neck in a knot and then +brought down to the under jaw, round which it is formed +into a simple noose, passing through the mouth: it is then +drawn up on the right side and held by the rider in his left +hand, while the rest trails after him to some distance. At +other times the knot is formed at a little distance from one +of the ends, so as to let that end serve as a bridle, while the +other trails on the ground. With these cords dangling along +side of them the horse is put to his full speed without fear of +falling, and when he is turned to graze the noose is merely +taken from his mouth. The saddle in formed like the pack-saddles +used by the French and Spaniards, of two flat thin +boards which fit the sides of the horse, and are kept together +by two cross pieces, one before and the other behind, +which rise to a considerable height, ending sometimes in a +flat point extending outwards, and always making the saddle +deep and narrow. Under this a piece of buffaloe skin, +with the hair on, is placed so as to prevent the rubbing of the +boards, and when they mount they throw a piece of skin or +robe over the saddle, which has no permanent cover. When +stirrups are used, they consist of wood covered with leather; +but stirrups and saddles are conveniences reserved for +old men and women. The young warriors rarely use any +thing except a small leather pad stuffed with hair, and secured +by a girth made of a leathern thong. In this way they +ride with great expertness, and they have a particular dexterity +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_427" id="Pg_427" title="Pg_427">[427]</a></span>in catching the horse when he is running at large. If +he will not immediately submit when they wish to take +him, they make a noose in the rope, and although the horse +may be at a distance, or even running, rarely fail to fix it on +his neck; and such is the docility of the animal, that however +unruly he may seem, he surrenders as soon as he feels +the rope on him. This cord is so useful in this way that it is +never dispensed with, even when they use the Spanish bridle, +which they prefer, and always procure when they have +it in their power. The horse becomes almost an object of +attachment: a favourite is frequently painted and his ears +cut into various shapes: the mane and tail, which are never +drawn nor trimmed, are decorated with feathers of birds, +and sometimes a warrior suspends at the breast of his horse +the finest ornaments he possesses.</p> + +<p>Thus armed and mounted the Shoshonee is a formidable +enemy, even with the feeble weapons which he is still obliged +to use. When they attack at full speed they bend forward +and cover their bodies with the shield, while with the right +hand they shoot under the horses neck.</p> + +<p>The only articles of metal which the Shoshonees possess +are a few bad knives, some brass kettles, some bracelets or +armbands of iron and brass, a few buttons worn as ornaments +in their hair, one or two spears about a foot in length, +and some heads for arrows made of iron and brass. All +these they had obtained in trading with the Crow or Rocky +mountain Indians, who live on the Yellowstone. The few +bridle-bits and stirrups they procured from the Spanish colonies.</p> + +<p>The instrument which supplies the place of a knife among +them, is a piece of flint with no regular form, and the sharp +part of it not more than one or two inches long: the edge of +this is renewed, and the flint itself is formed into heads for +arrows, by means of the point of a deer or elk horn, an instrument +which they use with great art and ingenuity. +There are no axes or hatchets; all the wood being cut with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_428" id="Pg_428" title="Pg_428">[428]</a></span>flint or elk-horn, the latter of which is always used as a +wedge in splitting wood. Their utensils consist, besides the +brass kettles, of pots in the form of a jar, made either of +earth, or of a stone found in the hills between Madison and +Jefferson rivers, which, though soft and white in its natural +state, becomes very hard and black after exposure to the +fire. The horns of the buffaloe and the bighorn supply them +with spoons.</p> + +<p>The fire is always kindled by means of a blunt arrow, +and a piece of well-seasoned wood of a soft spongy kind, +such as the willow or cottonwood.</p> + +<p>The Shoshonees are of a diminutive stature, with thick +flat feet and ankles, crooked legs, and are, generally speaking, +worse formed than any nation of Indians we have seen. +Their complexion resembles that of the Sioux, and is darker +than that of the Minnetarees, Mandans, or Shawnees. The +hair in both sexes is suffered to fall loosely over the face +and down the shoulders: some men, however, divide it by +means of thongs of dressed leather or otter skin into two equal +queues, which hang over the ears and are drawn in front of +the body; but at the present moment, when the nation is afflicted +by the loss of so many relations killed in war, most +of them have the hair cut quite short in the neck, and Cameahwait +has the hair cut short all over his head, this being +the customary mourning for a deceased kindred.</p> + +<p>The dress of the men consists of a robe, a tippet, a shirt, +long leggings and moccasins. The robe is formed most +commonly of the skins of antelope, bighorn, or deer, though +when it can be procured, the buffaloe hide is preferred. +Sometimes too they are made of beaver, moonax, and small +wolves, and frequently during the summer of elk skin. +These are dressed with the hair on, and reach about as low +as the middle of the leg. They are worn loosely over the +shoulders, the sides being at pleasure either left open or +drawn together by the hand, and in cold weather kept close +by a girdle round the waist. This robe answers the purpose +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_429" id="Pg_429" title="Pg_429">[429]</a></span>of a cloak during the day, and at night is their only +covering.</p> + +<p>The tippet is the most elegant article of Indian dress we +have ever seen. The neck or collar of it is a strip about +four or five inches wide, cut from the back of the otter skin, +the nose and eyes forming one extremity, and the tail another. +This being dressed with the fur on, they attach to +one edge of it, from one hundred to two hundred and fifty +little rolls of ermine skin, beginning at the ear, and proceeding +towards the tail. These ermine skins are the same +kind of narrow strips from the back of that animal, which +are sewed round a small cord of twisted silkgrass thick enough +to make the skin taper towards the tail which hangs from the +end, and are generally about the size of a large quill. These +are tied at the head into little bundles, of two, three or more +according to the caprice of the wearer, and then suspended +from the collar, and a broad fringe of ermine skin is fixed +so as to cover the parts where they unite, which might have +a coarse appearance. Little tassels of fringe of the same +materials are also fastened to the extremities of the tail, so +as to show its black colour to greater advantage. The centre +of the collar is further ornamented with the shells of the +pearl oyster. Thus adorned, the collar is worn close round +the neck, and the little rolls fall down over the shoulders +nearly to the waist, so as to form a sort of short cloak, +which has a very handsome appearance. These tippets are +very highly esteemed, and are given or disposed of on important +occasions only. The ermine is the fur known to the +northwest traders by the name of the white weasel, but is +the genuine ermine; and by encouraging the Indians to +take them, might no doubt be rendered a valuable branch +of trade. These animals must be very abundant, for the +tippets are in great numbers, and the construction of each +requires at least one hundred skins.</p> + +<p>The shirt is a covering of dressed skin without the hair, +and formed of the hide of the antelope, deer, bighorn, or +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_430" id="Pg_430" title="Pg_430">[430]</a></span>elk, though the last is more rarely used than any other +for this purpose. It fits the body loosely, and reaches half +way down the thigh. The aperture at the top is wide +enough to admit the head, and has no collar, but is either +left square, or most frequently terminates in the tail of the +animal, which is left entire, so as to fold outwards, though +sometimes the edges are cut into a fringe, and ornamented +with quills of the porcupine. The seams of the shirt are +on the sides, and are richly fringed and adorned with porcupine +quills, till within five or six inches of the sleeve, +where it is left open, as is also the under side of the sleeve +from the shoulder to the elbow, where it fits closely round +the arm as low as the wrist, and has no fringe like the +sides, and the under part of the sleeve above the elbow. It +is kept up by wide shoulder straps, on which the manufacturer +displays his taste by the variety of figures wrought +with porcupine quills of different colours, and sometimes +by beads when they can be obtained. The lower end of the +shirt retains the natural shape of the fore legs and neck of +the skin, with the addition of a slight fringe; the hair too +is left on the tail and near the hoofs, part of which last is +retained and split into a fringe.</p> + +<p>The leggings are generally made of antelope skins, dressed +without the hair, and with the legs, tail and neck hanging +to them. Each legging is formed of a skin nearly entire, +and reaches from the ancle to the upper part of the +thigh, and the legs of the skin are tucked before and behind +under a girdle round the waist. It fits closely to the leg, +the tail being worn upwards, and the neck highly ornamented +with fringe and porcupine quills, drags on the ground +behind the heels. As the legs of the animal are tied round +the girdle, the wide part of the skin is drawn so high as to +conceal the parts usually kept from view, in which respect +their dress is much more decent than that of any nation of +Indians on the Missouri. The seams of the leggings down +the sides, are also fringed and ornamented, and occasionally +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_431" id="Pg_431" title="Pg_431">[431]</a></span>decorated with tufts of hair taken from enemies whom they +have slain. In making all these dresses, their only thread +is the sinew taken from the backs and loins of deer, elk, buffaloe, +or any other animal.</p> + +<p>The moccasin is of the deer, elk, or buffaloe skin, dressed +without the hair, though in winter they use the buffaloe +skin with the hairy side inward, as do most of the Indians +who inhabit the buffaloe country. Like the Mandan +moccasin, it is made with a single seam on the outer edge, +and sewed up behind, a hole being left at the instep to admit +the foot. It is variously ornamented with figures wrought +with porcupine quills, and sometimes the young men most +fond of dress, cover it with the skin of a polecat, and trail +at their heels the tail of the animal.</p> + +<p>The dress of the women consists of the same articles as +that of their husbands. The robe though smaller is worn +in the same way: the moccasins are precisely similar. The +shirt or chemise reaches half way down the leg, is in the +same form, except that there is no shoulder-strap, the seam +coming quite up to the shoulder; though for women who +give suck both sides are open, almost down to the waist. It +is also ornamented in the same way with the addition of little +patches of red cloth, edged round with beads at the skirts. +The chief ornament is over the breast, where there are curious +figures made with the usual luxury of porcupine quills. +Like the men they have a girdle round the waist, and when +either sex wishes to disengage the arm, it is drawn up +through the hole near the shoulder, and the lower part of +the sleeve thrown behind the body.</p> + +<p>Children alone wear beads round their necks; grown +persons of both sexes prefer them suspended in little bunches +from the ear, and sometimes intermixed with triangular +pieces of the shell of the pearl oyster. Sometimes the men +tie them in the same way to the hair of the forepart of the +head, and increase the beauty of it by adding the wings and +tails of birds, and particularly the feathers of the great eagle +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_432" id="Pg_432" title="Pg_432">[432]</a></span>or calumet bird, of which they are extremely fond. The collars +are formed either of sea shells procured from their relations +to the southwest, or of the sweet-scented grass which +grows in the neighbourhood, and which they twist or plait +together, to the thickness of a man's finger, and then cover +with porcupine quills of various colours. The first of these +is worn indiscriminately by both sexes, the second principally +confined to the men, while a string of elk's tusks is a +collar almost peculiar to the women and children. Another +collar worn by the men is a string of round bones like the +joints of a fish's back, but the collar most preferred, because +most honourable, is one of the claws of the brown bear. To +kill one of these animals is as distinguished an achievement +as to have put to death an enemy, and in fact with their weapons +is a more dangerous trial of courage. These claws are +suspended on a thong of dressed leather, and being ornamented +with beads, are worn round the neck by the warriors +with great pride. The men also frequently wear the skin of +a fox, or a strip of otter skin round the head in the form of +a bandeau.</p> + +<p>In short, the dress of the Shoshonees is as convenient +and decent as that of any Indians we have seen.</p> + +<p>They have many more children than might have been +expected, considering their precarious means of support +and their wandering life. This inconvenience is however +balanced by the wonderful facility with which their females +undergo the operations of child-birth. In the most advanced +state of pregnancy they continue their usual occupations, +which are scarcely interrupted longer than the mere time of +bringing the child into the world.</p> + +<p>The old men are few in number and do not appear to be +treated with much tenderness or respect.</p> + +<p>The tobacco used by the Shoshonees is not cultivated +among them, but obtained from the Indians of the Rocky +mountains, and from some of the bands of their own nation +who live south of them; it is the same plant which is in use +among the Minnetarees, Mandans, and Ricaras.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_433" id="Pg_433" title="Pg_433">[433]</a></span>Their chief intercourse with other nations seems to consist +in their association with other Snake Indians, and with +the Flatheads when they go eastward to hunt buffaloe, and +in the occasional visits made by the Flatheads to the waters +of the Columbia for the purpose of fishing. Their intercourse +with the Spaniards is much more rare, and it furnishes +them with a few articles, such as mules, and some +bridles, and other ornaments for horses, which, as well as +some of their kitchen utensils, are also furnished by the +bands of Snake Indians from the Yellowstone. The pearl +ornaments which they esteem so highly come from other +bands, whom they represent as their friends and relations, +living to the southwest beyond the barren plains on the +other side of the mountains: these relations they say inhabit +a good country, abounding with elk, deer, bear, and antelope, +where horses and mules are much more abundant than +they are here, or to use their own expression, as numerous +as the grass of the plains.</p> + +<p>The names of the Indians varies in the course of their +life: originally given in childhood, from the mere necessity +of distinguishing objects, or from some accidental resemblance +to external objects, the young warrior is impatient to +change it by some achievement of his own. Any important +event, the stealing of horses, the scalping an enemy, or killing +a brown bear, entitles him at once to a new name which +he then selects for himself, and it is confirmed by the nation. +Sometimes the two names subsist together: thus, the chief +Cameahwait, which means, "one who never walks," has the +war name of Tooettecone, or "black gun," which he acquired +when he first signalized himself. As each new action +gives a warrior a right to change his name, many of +them have had several in the course of their lives. To give +to a friend his own name is an act of high courtesy, and a +pledge like that of pulling off the moccasin of sincerity and +hospitality. The chief in this way gave his name to captain +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_434" id="Pg_434" title="Pg_434">[434]</a></span>Clarke when he first arrived, and he was afterwards +known among the Shoshonees by the name of Cameahwait.</p> + +<p>The diseases incident to this state of life may be supposed +to be few, and chiefly the result of accidents. We +were particularly anxious to ascertain whether they had any +knowledge of the venereal disorder. After inquiring by +means of the interpreter and his wife, we learnt that they +sometimes suffered from it, and that they most usually die +with it; nor could we discover what was their remedy. It is +possible that this disease may have reached them in their +circuitous communications with the whites through the intermediate +Indians; but the situation of the Shoshonees is +so insulated, that it is not probable that it could have reached +them in that way, and the existence of such a disorder +among the Rocky mountains seems rather a proof of its +being aboriginal.</p> + + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_435" id="Pg_435" title="Pg_435">[435]</a></span></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<!-- ROUTE MAP --> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/lc_001_h.jpg" > + <img src="images/lc_001_t.jpg" width="400" height="173" + alt="Route Map" title="Route Map" /> + </a> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The party, after procuring horses from the Shoshonees, proceed on their journey +through the mountains—The difficulties and dangers of the route—A council +held with another band of the Shoshonees, of whom some account is +given—They are reduced to the necessity of killing their horses for food—Captain +Clarke with a small party precedes the main body in quest of food, +and is hospitably received by the Pierced-nose Indians—Arrival of the main +body amongst this tribe, with whom a council is held—They resolve to perform +the remainder of their journey in canoes—Sickness of the party—They +descend the Kooskooskee to its junction with Lewis river, after passing several +dangerous rapids—Short description of the manners and dress of the +Pierced-nose Indians.</p><br /></div> + + +<p>August 27. We were now occupied in determining our +route and procuring horses from the Indians. The old guide +who had been sent on by captain Clarke, now confirmed, by +means of our interpreter, what he had already asserted, of +a road up Berry creek which would lead to Indian establishments +on another branch of the Columbia: his reports however +were contradicted by all the Shoshonees. This representation +we ascribed to a wish on their part to keep us with +them during the winter, as well for the protection we might +afford against their enemies, as for the purpose of consuming +our merchandise amongst them; and as the old man promised +to conduct us himself, that route seemed to be the most eligible. +We were able to procure some horses, though not +enough for all our purposes. This traffic, and our inquiries and +councils with the Indians, consumed the remainder of the day.</p> + +<p>August 28. The purchase of horses was resumed, and our +stock raised to twenty-two. Having now crossed more than +once the country which separates the head waters of the +Missouri from those of the Columbia, we can designate the +easiest and most expeditious route for a portage; it is as +follows:</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_436" id="Pg_436" title="Pg_436">[436]</a></span>From the forks of the river north 60° west, five miles +to the point of a hill on the right: then south 80° west, ten +miles to a spot where the creek is ten miles wide, and the +highlands approach within two hundred yards; southwest +five miles to a narrow part of the bottom; then turning +south 70° west, two miles to a creek on the right: thence +south 80° west, three miles to a rocky point opposite to a +thicket of pines on the left; from that place west, three +miles to the gap where is the fountain of the Missouri: on +leaving this fountain south 80° west, six miles across the +dividing ridge, to a run from the right passing several small +streams north 80° west, four miles over hilly ground to the +east fork of Lewis's river, which is here forty yards wide.</p> + +<p>Thursday 29. Captain Clarke joined us this morning, +and we continued our bargains for horses. The late misfortunes +of the Shoshonees make the price higher than +common, so that one horse cost a pistol, one hundred balls, +some powder and a knife; another was changed for a musket, +and in this way we obtained twenty-nine. The horses +themselves are young and vigorous, but they are very poor, +and most of them have sore backs in consequence of the +roughness of the Shoshonee saddle. We are therefore +afraid of loading them too heavily and are anxious to obtain +one at least for each man to carry the baggage, or the man +himself, or in the last resource to serve as food; but with +all our exertions we could not provide all our men with +horses. We have, however, been fortunate in obtaining for +the last three days a sufficient supply of flesh, our hunters +having killed two or three deer every day.</p> + +<p>Friday 30. The weather was fine, and having now made +all our purchases, we loaded our horses, and prepared to +start. The greater part of the band who had delayed their +journey on our account, were also ready to depart. We +then took our leave of the Shoshonees, who set out on their +visit to the Missouri at the same time that we accompanied +by the old guide, his four sons, and another Indian, began +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_437" id="Pg_437" title="Pg_437">[437]</a></span>the descent of the river, along the same road which captain +Clarke had previously pursued. After riding twelve miles +we encamped on the south bank of the river, and as the +hunters had brought in three deer early in the morning we +did not feel the want of provisions.</p> + +<p>Saturday 31. At sunrise we resumed our journey, and +halted for three hours on Salmon creek to let the horses +graze. We then proceeded to the stream called Berry +creek eighteen miles from the camp of last night: as we +passed along, the vallies and prairies were on fire in several +places, in order to collect the bands of the Shoshonees and +the Flatheads, for their journey to the Missouri. The weather +was warm and sultry, but the only inconvenience which +we apprehend is a dearth of food, of which we had to-day +an abundance, having procured a deer, a goose, one duck +and a prairie fowl. On reaching Tower creek we left the +former track of captain Clarke, and began to explore the +new route, which is our last hope of getting out of the mountains. +For four miles the road, which is tolerably plain, +led us along Berry creek to some old Indian lodges where +we encamped for the night; the next day,</p> + +<p>Sunday, September 1, 1805, we followed the same road +which here left the creek and turned to the northwest +across the hills. During all day we were riding over these +hills, from which are many drains and small streams running +into the river to the left, and at the distance of eighteen +miles, came to a large creek called Fish creek emptying +into the Columbia which is about six miles from us. It +had rained in the course of the day, and commenced raining +again towards evening. We therefore determined not +to leave the low grounds to night, and after going up Fish +creek four miles formed our encampment. The country +over which we passed is well watered, but poor and rugged +or stony, except the bottoms of Fish creek, and even these +are narrow. Two men were sent to purchase fish of the +Indians at the mouth of the creek, and with the dried fish +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_438" id="Pg_438" title="Pg_438">[438]</a></span>which they obtained, and a deer and a few salmon killed +by the party, we were still well supplied. Two bear also +were wounded but we could procure neither of them.</p> + +<p>Monday 2. This morning all the Indians left us, except +the old guide, who now conducted us up Fish creek: at +one mile and a half we passed a branch of the river coming +in through a low ground covered with pine on the left, and +two and a half miles further is a second branch from the +right; after continuing our route along the hills covered +with pine, and a low ground of the same growth, we arrived +at the distance of three and a half miles at the forks of the +creek. The road which we were following now turned up +the east side of these forks, and as our guide informed us led +to the Missouri. We were therefore left without any track; +but as no time was to be lost we began to cut our road up +the west branch of the creek. This we effected with much +difficulty; the thickets of trees and brush through which we +were obliged to cut our way required great labour; the road +itself was over the steep and rocky sides of the hills where +the horses could not move without danger of slipping down, +while their feet were bruised by the rocks and stumps of +trees. Accustomed as these animals were to this kind of +life they suffered severely, several of them fell to some distance +down the sides of the hills, some turned over with the +baggage, one was crippled, and two gave out exhausted +with fatigue. After crossing the creek several times we +at last made five miles, with great fatigue and labour, and +encamped on the left side of the creek in a small stony low +ground. It was not, however, till after dark that the whole +party was collected, and then, as it rained, and we killed +nothing, we passed an uncomfortable night. The party had +been too busily occupied with the horses to make any hunting +excursion, and though as we came along Fish creek we +saw many beaver dams we saw none of the animals themselves. +In the morning,</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_439" id="Pg_439" title="Pg_439">[439]</a></span>Tuesday 3, the horses were very stiff and weary. We sent +back two men for the load of the horse which had been crippled +yesterday, and which we had been forced to leave two +miles behind. On their return, we set out at eight o'clock, and +proceeded up the creek, making a passage through the brush +and timber along its borders. The country is generally supplied +with pine, and in the low grounds is a great abundance +of fir trees, and under bushes. The mountains are high and +rugged, and those to the east of us, covered with snow. +With all our precautions the horses were very much injured +in passing over the ridges and steep points of the hills, and +to add to the difficulty, at the distance of eleven miles, the +high mountains closed the creek, so that we were obliged +to leave the creek to the right, and cross the mountain abruptly. +The ascent was here so steep that several of the +horses slipped and hurt themselves, but at last we succeeded +in crossing the mountain, and encamped on a small branch +of Fish creek. We had now made fourteen miles in a direction +nearly north from the river; but this distance, +though short, was very fatiguing, and rendered still more +disagreeable by the rain which began at three o'clock. +At dusk it commenced snowing, and continued till the ground +was covered to the depth of two inches, when it changed +into a sleet. We here met with a serious misfortune the +last of our thermometers being broken by accident. After +making a scanty supper on a little corn and a few pheasants +killed in the course of the day, we laid down to sleep, +and next morning,</p> + +<p>Wednesday 4, found every thing frozen, and the ground +covered with snow. We were obliged to wait some time +in order to thaw the covers of the baggage, after which we +began our journey at eight o'clock. We crossed a high +mountain which joins the dividing ridge between the waters +of the creek we had been ascending, and those running +to the north and west. We had not gone more than six +miles over the snow, when we reached the head of a stream +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_440" id="Pg_440" title="Pg_440">[440]</a></span>from the right, which directed its course more to the westward. +We descended the steep sides of the hills along its +border, and at the distance of three miles found a small +branch coming in from the eastward. We saw several of +the argalia, but they were too shy to be killed, and we +therefore made a dinner from a deer shot by one of the hunters. +Then we pursued the course of the stream for three +miles, till it emptied itself into a river from the east. In +the wide valley at their junction, we discovered a large encampment +of Indians: when we had reached them and alighted +from our horses, we were received with great cordiality. +A council was immediately assembled, white robes +were thrown over our soldiers, and the pipe of peace introduced. +After this ceremony, as it was too late to go any +further, we encamped, and continued smoking and conversing +with the chiefs till a late hour. The next morning,</p> + +<p>Thursday 5, we assembled the chiefs and warriors, and +informed them who we were, and the purpose for which we +visited their country. All this was however conveyed to +them through so many different languages, that it was not +comprehended without difficulty. We therefore proceeded +to the more intelligible language of presents, and made four +chiefs by giving a medal and a small quantity of tobacco to +each. We received in turn from the principal chief, a present +consisting of the skins of a braro, an otter, and two antelopes, +and were treated by the women to some dried roots +and berries. We then began to traffic for horses, and succeeded +in exchanging seven, purchasing eleven, for which +we gave a few articles of merchandise.</p> + +<p>This encampment consists of thirty-three tents, in which +were about four hundred souls, among whom eighty were +men. They are called Ootlashoots, and represent themselves +as one band of a nation called Tushepaws, a numerous +people of four hundred and fifty tents, residing +on the heads of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and +some of them lower down the latter river. In person these +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_441" id="Pg_441" title="Pg_441">[441]</a></span>Indians are stout, and their complexion lighter than that +common among Indians. The hair of the men is worn in +queues of otter skin, falling in front over the shoulders. +A shirt of dressed skin covers the body to the knee, and on +this is worn occasionally a robe. To these were added +leggings and moccasins. The women suffer their hair to +fall in disorder over the face and shoulders, and their +chief article of covering is a long shirt of skin, reaching +down to the ancles, and tied round the waist. In other respects, +as also in the few ornaments which they possess, their +appearance is similar to that of the Shoshonees; there is +however a difference between the language of these people +which is still farther increased by the very extraordinary +pronunciation of the Ootlashoots. Their words have all a +remarkably guttural sound, and there is nothing which +seems to represent the tone of their speaking more exactly +than the clucking of a fowl, or the noise of a parrot. This +peculiarity renders their voices scarcely audible, except at +a short distance, and when many of them are talking, forms +a strange confusion of sounds. The common conversation we +overheard, consisted of low guttural sounds occasionally +broken by a loud word or two, after which it would relapse +and scarcely be distinguished. They seem kind and friendly +and willingly shared with us berries and roots, which formed +their only stock of provisions. Their only wealth is their +horses, which are very fine, and so numerous that this party +had with them at least five hundred.</p> + +<p>Friday 6. We continued this morning with the Ootlashoots, +from whom we purchased two more horses, and procured +a vocabulary of their language. The Ootlashoots set +off about two o'clock to join the different bands who were +collecting at the three forks of the Missouri. We ourselves +proceeded at the same time, and taking a direction N. 30 W. +crossed within the distance of one mile and a half, a small +river from the right, and a creek coming in from the north. +This river is the main stream, and when it reaches the end +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_442" id="Pg_442" title="Pg_442">[442]</a></span>of the valley, where the mountains close in upon it, is joined +by the river on which we encamped last evening, as well as +by the creek just mentioned. To the river thus formed we +gave the name of captain Clarke, he being the first white +man who had ever visited its waters. At the end of five +miles on this course we had crossed the valley, and reached +the top of a mountain covered with pine; this we descended +along the steep sides and ravines for a mile and a half, when +we came to a spot on the river, where the Ootlashoots had +encamped a few days before. We then followed the course +of the river, which is from twenty-five to thirty yards wide, +shallow, stony, and the low grounds on its borders narrow. +Within the distance of three and a half miles, we crossed it +several times, and after passing a run on each side, encamped +on its right bank, after making ten miles during the afternoon. +The horses were turned out to graze, but those we +had lately bought were secured and watched, lest they should +escape, or be stolen by their former owners. Our stock of +flour was now exhausted, and we had but little corn, and as +our hunters had killed nothing except two pheasants, our +supper consisted chiefly of berries.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 7. The greater part of the day the weather +was dark and rainy: we continued through the narrow low +grounds along the river, till at the distance of six miles we +came to a large creek from the left, after which the bottoms +widen. Four miles lower is another creek on the same +side, and the valley now extends from one to three miles, +the mountains on the left being high and bald, with snow on +the summits, while the country to the right is open and +hilly. Four miles beyond this is a creek running from the +snow-top'd mountains, and several runs on both sides of the +river. Two miles from this last is another creek on the left. +The afternoon was now far advanced, but not being able to +find a fit place to encamp we continued six miles further +till after dark, when we halted for the night. The river +here is still shallow and stony, but is increased to the width +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_443" id="Pg_443" title="Pg_443">[443]</a></span>of fifty yards. The valley through which we passed is of a +poor soil, and its fertility injured by the quantity of stone +scattered over it. We met two horses which had strayed from +the Indians and were now quite wild. No fish was to be seen +in the river, but we obtained a very agreeable supply of two +deer, two cranes, and two pheasants.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 8. We set out early: the snow-top'd hills on +the left approach the river near our camp, but we soon +reached a valley four or five miles wide, through which we +followed the course of the river in a direction due north. +We passed three creeks on the right, and several runs emptying +themselves into the opposite side of the river. At the +distance of eleven miles the river turned more towards the +west: we pursued it for twelve miles, and encamped near a +large creek coming in from the right, which, from its being +divided into four different channels, we called Scattering +creek. The valley continues to be a poor stony land, with +scarcely any timber, except some pine trees along the waters +and partially scattered on the hills to the right, which, +as well as those on the left, have snow on them. The plant +which forces itself most on our attention is a species of +prickly pear very common on this part of the river: it grows +in clusters, in an oval form about the size of a pigeon's egg, +and its thorns are so strong and bearded, that when it penetrates +our feet it brings away the pear itself. We saw two +mares and a colt, which, like the horses seen yesterday, +seemed to have lost themselves and become wild. Our game +to-day consisted of two deer, an elk, and a prairie fowl.</p> + +<p>Monday, 9. We resumed our journey through the valley, +and leaving the road on our right crossed the Scattering +creek, and halted at the distance of twelve miles on a small +run from the east, where we breakfasted on the remains of +yesterday's hunt: we here took a meridian altitude, which +gave the latitude of 46° 41' 38" 9"': we then continued, and at +the distance of four miles passed over to the left bank of the +river, where we found a large road through the valley. At +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_444" id="Pg_444" title="Pg_444">[444]</a></span>this place is a handsome stream of very clear water, a hundred +yards wide with low banks, and a bed formed entirely of +gravel: it has every appearance of being navigable, but as it +contains no salmon, we presume there must be some fall below +which obstructs their passage. Our guide could not inform +us where this river discharged its waters; he said that +as far as he knew its course it ran along the mountains to +the north, and that not far from our present position it was +joined by another stream nearly as large as itself, which +rises in the mountains to the east near the Missouri, and +flows through an extensive valley or open prairie. Through +this prairie is the great Indian road to the waters of the +Missouri; and so direct is the route, that in four days' journey +from this place we might reach the Missouri about +thirty miles above what we called the Gates of the Rocky +mountains, or the spot where the valley of that river widens +into an extensive plain on entering the chain of mountains. +At ten miles from our camp is a small creek falling in from +the eastward, five miles below which we halted at a large +stream which empties itself on the west side of the river. +It is a fine bold creek of clear water about twenty yards wide, +and we called it <i>Traveller's-rest</i> creek; for as our guide told +us that we should here leave the river, we determined to +remain for the purpose of making celestial observations and +collecting some food, as the country through which we are +to pass has no game for a great distance.</p> + +<p>The valley of the river through which we have been passing +is generally a prairie from five to six miles in width, +and with a cold gravelly white soil. The timber which it +possesses is almost exclusively pine, chiefly of the long-leafed +kind, with some spruce, and a species of fir resembling +the Scotch fir: near the water courses are also seen a +few narrow-leafed cottonwood trees, and the only underbrush +is the redwood, honeysuckle, and rosebushes. Our +game was four deer, three geese, four ducks, and three +prairie fowls; one of the hunters brought in a red-headed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_445" id="Pg_445" title="Pg_445">[445]</a></span>woodpecker of the large kind common in the United States, +but the first of the kind we have seen since leaving the Illinois.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 10. The morning being fair all the hunters +were sent out, and the rest of the party employed in repairing +their clothes: two of them were sent to the junction of +the river from the east, along which the Indians go to the +Missouri: it is about seven miles below Traveller's-rest creek; +the country at the forks is seven or eight miles wide, level +and open, but with little timber; its course is to the north, +and we incline to believe that this is the river which the +Minnetarees had described to us as running from south to +north along the west side of the Rocky mountains, not far +from the sources of Medicine river: there is moreover reason +to suppose, that after going as far northward as the +head-waters of that river it turns to the westward and joins +the Tacootchetessee. Towards evening one of the hunters +returned with three Indians, whom he had met in his excursion +up Traveller's-rest creek: as soon as they saw him +they prepared to attack him with arrows, but he quieted +them by laying down his gun and advancing towards them, +and soon persuaded them to come to the camp. Our Shoshonee +guide could not speak the language of these people, +but by the universal language of signs and gesticulations, +which is perfectly intelligible among the Indians, he found +that these were three Tushepaw Flatheads in pursuit of +two men, supposed to be Shoshonees, who had stolen twenty-three +of their horses: we gave them some boiled venison +and a few presents; such as a fishhook, a steel to strike fire, +and a little powder; but they seemed better pleased with a +piece of riband which we tied in the hair of each of them. +They were however in such haste, lest their horses should +be carried off, that two of them set off after sunset in quest +of the robbers: the third however was persuaded to remain +with us and conduct us to his relations: these he said were +numerous, and resided on the Columbia in the plain below +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_446" id="Pg_446" title="Pg_446">[446]</a></span>the mountains. From that place he added, the river was +navigable to the ocean; that some of his relations had been +there last fall and seen an old white man who resided there +by himself, and who gave them some handkerchiefs like +those we have. The distance from this place is five sleeps or +days' journey. When our hunters had all joined us we found +our provisions consisted of four deer, a beaver, and three +grouse.</p> + +<p>The observation of to-day gave 46° 48' 28" as the latitude +of Travellers-rest creek.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 11. Two of our horses having strayed away +we were detained all the morning before they were caught. +In the meantime our Tushepaw Indian became impatient +of the delay, and set out to return home alone. As usual +we had dispatched four of our best hunters ahead, and as +we hoped with their aid and our present stock of provisions +to subsist on the route, we proceeded at three o'clock up the +right side of the creek, and encamped under some old Indian +huts at the distance of seven miles. The road was +plain and good; the valley is however narrower than that +which we left and bordered by high and rugged hills to the +right, while the mountains on the left were covered with +snow. The day was fair and warm, the wind from the +northwest.</p> + +<p>Thursday 12. There was a white frost this morning. +We proceeded at seven o'clock and soon passed a stream falling +in on the right, near which was an old Indian camp with +a bath or sweating-house covered with earth. At two miles +distance we ascended a high, and thence continued through +a hilly and thickly timbered country for nine miles, when we +came to the forks of the creek, where the road branches +up each fork. We followed the western route, and finding +that the creek made a considerable bend at the distance of +four miles, crossed a high mountain in order to avoid the +circuit. The road had been very bad during the first part +of the day, but the passage of the mountain, which was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_447" id="Pg_447" title="Pg_447">[447]</a></span>eight miles across, was very painful to the horses, as we +were obliged to go over steep stony sides of hills and along +the hollows and ravines, rendered more <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'disagreeble'.">disagreeable</ins> by the +fallen timber, chiefly pine, spruce pine and fir. We at +length reached the creek, having made twenty-three miles +of a route so difficult that some of the party did not join us +before ten o'clock. We found the account of the scantiness +of game but too true, as we were not able to procure any +thing during the whole of yesterday, and to-day we killed +only a single pheasant. Along the road we observed many +of the pine trees pealed off, which is done by the Indians to +procure the inner bark for food in the spring.</p> + +<p>Friday 13. Two of the horses strayed away during the +night, and one of them being captain Lewis's, he remained +with four men to search for them while we proceeded up +the creek: at the distance of two miles we came to several +springs issuing from large rocks of a coarse hard grit, +and nearly boiling hot. Those seem to be much frequented +as there are several paths made by elk, deer and other animals, +and near one of the springs a hole or Indian bath, and +roads leading in different directions. These embarrassed +our guide, who mistaking the road took us three miles out +of the proper course over an exceedingly bad route. We +then fell into the right road, and proceeded on very well, +when having made five miles we stopped to refresh the horses. +Captain Lewis here joined us, but not having been +able to find his horse two men were sent back to continue +the search. We then proceeded along the same kind of +country which we passed yesterday, and after crossing a +mountain and leaving the sources of the Travellers-rest +creek on the left, reached after five miles riding a small +creek which also came in from the left hand, passing +through open glades, some of which were half a mile wide. +The road which had been as usual rugged and stony, became +firm, plain and level after quitting the head of Travellers-rest. +We followed the course of this new creek +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_448" id="Pg_448" title="Pg_448">[448]</a></span>for two miles and encamped at a spot where the mountains +close on each side. Other mountains covered with snow +are in view to the southeast and southwest. We were +somewhat more fortunate to-day in killing a deer and several +pheasants which were of the common species, except +that the tail was black.</p> + +<p>Saturday 14. The day was very cloudy with rain and hail +in the vallies, while on the top of the mountains some snow +fell. We proceeded early, and continuing along the right +side of Glade creek crossed a high mountain, and at the distance +of six miles reached the place where it is joined by +another branch of equal size from the right. Near the +forks the Tushepaws have had an encampment which is +but recently abandoned, for the grass is entirely destroyed +by horses, and two fish weirs across the creek are still remaining; +no fish were however to be seen. We here passed +over to the left side of the creek and began the ascent of a +very high and steep mountain nine miles across. On reaching +the other side we found a large branch from the left, +which seems to rise in the snowy mountains to the south +and southeast. We continued along the creek two miles +further, when night coming on we encamped opposite a +small island at the mouth of a branch on the right side of +the river. The mountains which we crossed to-day were +much more difficult than those of yesterday; the last was +particularly fatiguing, being steep and stony, broken by fallen +timber, and thickly overgrown by pine, spruce, fir, haematack +and tamarac. Although we had made only seventeen +miles we were all very weary. The whole stock of +animal food was now exhausted, and we therefore killed a +colt, on which we made a hearty supper. From this incident +we called the last creek we had passed from the south +Colt-killed creek. The river itself is eighty yards wide, +with a swift current, and a stony channel. Its Indian name +is Kooskooskee.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_449" id="Pg_449" title="Pg_449">[449]</a></span>Sunday 15. At an early hour we proceeded along the +right side of the Kooskooskee over steep rocky points of +land, till at the distance of four miles we reached an old Indian +fishing place: the road here turned to the right of +the water, and began to ascend a mountain: but the fire and +wind had prostrated or dried almost all the timber on the +south side, and the ascents were so steep that we were forced +to wind in every direction round the high knobs which constantly +impeded our progress. Several of the horses lost +their foot-hold and slipped: one of them which was loaded +with a desk and small trunk, rolled over and over for forty +yards, till his fall was stopped by a tree. The desk was +broken; but the poor animal escaped without much injury. +After clambering in this way for four miles, we came to a +high snowy part of the mountain where was a spring of +water, at which we halted two hours to refresh our horses.</p> + +<p>On leaving the spring the road continued as bad as it was +below, and the timber more abundant. At four miles we +reached the top of the mountain, and foreseeing no chance +of meeting with water, we encamped on the northern side +of the mountain, near an old bank of snow, three feet deep. +Some of this we melted, and supped on the remains of the +colt killed yesterday. Our only game to-day was two pheasants, +and the horses on which we calculated as a last resource +begin to fail us, for two of them were so poor, and +worn out with fatigue, that we were obliged to leave them +behind. All around us are high rugged mountains, among +which is a lofty range from southeast to northwest, whose +tops are without timber, and in some places covered with +snow. The night was cloudy and very cold, and three hours +before daybreak,</p> + +<p>Monday 16, it began to snow, and continued all day, +so that by evening it was six or eight inches deep. This +covered the track so completely, that we were obliged +constantly to halt and examine, lest we should lose the route. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_450" id="Pg_450" title="Pg_450">[450]</a></span>In many places we had nothing to guide us except the branches +of the trees which, being low, have been rubbed by the +burdens of the Indian horses. The road was, like that of +yesterday, along steep hill sides, obstructed with fallen timber, +and a growth of eight different species of pine, so thickly +strewed that the snow falls from them as we pass, and +keeps us continually wet to the skin, and so cold, that we +are anxious lest our feet should be frozen, as we have +only thin moccasins to defend them.</p> + +<p>At noon we halted to let the horses feed on some long +grass on the south side of the mountains, and endeavoured +by making fires to keep ourselves warm. As soon as the +horses were refreshed, captain Clarke went ahead with one +man, and at the distance of six miles reached a stream from +the right, and prepared fires by the time of our arrival at +dusk. We here encamped in a piece of low ground, thickly +timbered, but scarcely large enough to permit us to lie +level. We had now made thirteen miles. We were all very +wet, cold, and hungry: but although before setting out this +morning, we had seen four deer, yet we could not procure +any of them, and were obliged to kill a second colt for our +supper.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 17. Our horses became so much scattered during +the night, that we were detained till one o'clock before +they were all collected. We then continued our route +over high rough knobs, and several drains and springs, +and along a ridge of country separating the waters of two +small rivers. The road was still difficult, and several of +the horses fell and injured themselves very much, so that +we were unable to advance more than ten miles to a small +stream, on which we encamped.</p> + +<p>We had killed a few pheasants, but these being insufficient +for our subsistence, we killed another of the colts. +This want of provisions, and the extreme fatigue to which +we were subjected, and the dreary prospects before us, began +to dispirit the men. It was therefore agreed that captain +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_451" id="Pg_451" title="Pg_451">[451]</a></span>Clarke should go on ahead with six hunters, and +endeavour to kill something for the support of the party. He +therefore set out,</p> + +<p>Wednesday 18, early in the morning in hopes of finding +a level country from which he might send back some game. +His route lay S. 85° W., along the same high dividing ridge, +and the road was still very bad; but he moved on rapidly, and +at the distance of twenty miles was rejoiced on discovering +far off an extensive plain towards the west and southwest, +bounded by a high mountain. He halted an hour to let +the horses eat a little grass on the hill sides, and then +went on twelve and a half miles till he reached a bold +creek, running to the left, on which he encamped. To +this stream he gave the very appropriate name of Hungry +creek; for having procured no game, they had nothing +to eat.</p> + +<p>In the meantime we were detained till after eight +o'clock by the loss of one of our horses which had strayed +away and could not be found. We then proceeded, but +having soon finished the remainder of the colt killed yesterday, +felt the want of provisions, which was more sensible +from our meeting with no water, till towards nightfall +we found some in a ravine among the hills. By pushing on +our horses almost to their utmost strength, we made eighteen +miles.</p> + +<p>We then melted some snow, and supped on a little portable +soup, a few canisters of which, with about twenty +weight of bears oil, are our only remaining means +of subsistence. Our guns are scarcely of any service, for +there is no living creature in these mountains, except a +few small pheasants, a small species of gray squirrel, and +a blue bird of the vulture kind about the size of a turtle dove +or jay, and even these are difficult to shoot.</p> + +<p>Thursday 19. Captain Clarke proceeded up the creek, +along which the road was more steep and stony than any he +had yet passed, At six miles distance he reached a small +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_452" id="Pg_452" title="Pg_452">[452]</a></span>plain, in which he fortunately found a horse, on which he +breakfasted, and hung the rest on a tree for the party in +the rear. Two miles beyond this he left the creek, and +crossed three high mountains, rendered almost impassable +from the steepness of the ascent and the quantity of fallen +timber. After clambering over these ridges and mountains, +and passing the heads of some branches of Hungry creek, +he came to a large creek running westward. This he followed +for four miles, then turned to the right down the +mountain, till he came to a small creek to the left. Here +he halted, having made twenty-two miles on his course, +south eighty degrees west, though the winding route over +the mountains almost doubled the distance. On descending +the last mountain, the heat became much more sensible +after the extreme cold he had experienced for several +days past. Besides the breakfast in the morning, two +pheasants were their only food during the day, and the +only kinds of birds they saw were the blue jay, a small +white-headed hawk, a larger hawk, crows, and ravens.</p> + +<p>We followed soon after sunrise. At six miles the ridge +terminated and we had before us the cheering prospect of +the large plain to the southwest. On leaving the ridge we +again ascended and went down several mountains, and six +miles further came to Hungry creek where it was fifteen +yards wide, and received the waters of a branch from the +north. We went up it on a course nearly due west, and at +three miles crossed a second branch flowing from the same +quarter. The country is thickly covered with pine timber, +of which we have enumerated eight distinct species. Three +miles beyond this last branch of Hungry creek we encamped, +after a fatiguing route of eighteen miles. The +road along the creek is a narrow rocky path near the borders +of very high precipices, from which a fall seems almost +inevitable destruction. One of our horses slipped and +rolling over with his load down the hill side, which was +nearly perpendicular and strewed with large irregular +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_453" id="Pg_453" title="Pg_453">[453]</a></span>rocks, nearly a hundred yards, and did not stop till he fell +into the creek: we all expected he was killed, but to our +astonishment, on taking off his load, he rose, and seemed +but little injured, and in twenty minutes proceeded with his +load. Having no other provision we took some portable +soup, our only refreshment during the day. This abstinence, +joined with fatigue, has a visible effect on our health. +The men are growing weak and losing their flesh very fast: +several are afflicted with the dysentery, and eruptions of +the skin are very common.</p> + +<p>Friday 20. Captain Clarke went on through a country +as rugged as usual, till on passing a low mountain he +came at the distance of four miles to the forks of a large +creek. Down this he kept on a course south 60° west for +two miles, then turning to the right, continued over a dividing +ridge where were the heads of several little streams, +and at twelve miles distance descended the last of the rocky +mountains and reached the level country. A beautiful +open plain partially supplied with pine now presented itself. +He continued for five miles when he discovered three +Indian boys, who, on observing the party, ran off and hid +themselves in the grass. Captain Clarke immediately +alighted, and giving his horse and gun to one of the men +went after the boys. He soon relieved their apprehensions +and sent them forward to the village about a mile off with +presents of small pieces of riband. Soon after the boys +had reached home, a man came out to meet the party, with +great caution, but he conducted them to a large tent in the +village, and all the inhabitants gathered round to view with +a mixture of fear and pleasure these wonderful strangers. +The conductor now informed captain Clarke by signs, that +the spacious tent was the residence of the great chief, who +had set out three days ago with all the warriors to attack +some of their enemies towards the southwest; that he would +not return before fifteen or eighteen days, and that in the +meantime there were only a few men left to guard the women +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_454" id="Pg_454" title="Pg_454">[454]</a></span>and children. They now set before them a small +piece of buffaloe meat, some dried salmon, berries, and several +kinds of roots. Among these last is one which is +round and much like an onion in appearance and sweet to +the taste: it is called quamash, and is eaten either in its +natural state, or boiled into a kind of soup or made into a +cake, which is then called pasheco. After the long abstinence +this was a sumptuous treat; we returned the kindness +of the people by a few small presents, and then went on in +company with one of the chiefs to a second village in the +same plain, at the distance of two miles. Here the party +was treated with great kindness and passed the night. The +hunters were sent out, but though they saw some tracks +of deer were not able to procure any thing.</p> + +<p>We were detained till ten o'clock before we could collect +our scattered horses; we then proceeded for two miles, +when to our great joy we found the horse which captain +Clarke had killed, and a note apprising us of his intention of +going to the plains towards the southwest, and collect provisions +by the time we reached him. At one o'clock we +halted on a small stream, and made a hearty meal of horse +flesh. On examination it now appeared that one of the +horses was missing, and the man in whose charge he had +been, was directed to return and search for him. He came +back in about two hours without having been able to find +the horse; but as the load was too valuable to be lost, two +of the best woodsmen were directed to continue the +search while we proceeded. Our general course was south +25° west through a thick forest of large pine, which has +fallen in many places, and very much obstructs the road. +After making about fifteen miles we encamped on a ridge +where we could find but little grass and no water. We succeeded, +however, in procuring a little from a distance, and +supped on the remainder of the horse.</p> + +<p>On descending the heights of the mountains the soil +becomes gradually more fertile, and the land through which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_455" id="Pg_455" title="Pg_455">[455]</a></span>we passed this evening, is of an excellent quality. It has +a dark gray soil, though very broken, and with large masses +of gray free-stone above the ground in many places. +Among the vegetable productions we distinguished the +alder, honeysuckle, and huckleberry, common in the +United States, and a species of honeysuckle, known only +westward of the Rocky mountains, which rises to the +height of about four feet, and bears a white berry. There +is also a plant resembling the chokecherry, which grows +in thick clumps eight or ten feet high, and bears a black +berry with a single stone of a sweetish taste. The arbor +vitæ too, is very common, and grows to a great size, being +from two to six feet in diameter.</p> + +<p>Saturday 21. The free use of food, to which he had not +been accustomed, made captain Clarke very sick both +yesterday evening and during the whole of to-day. He +therefore sent out all the hunters and remained himself at the +village, as well on account of his sickness as for the purpose +of avoiding suspicion and collecting information from +the Indians as to the route.</p> + +<p>The two villages consist of about thirty double tents, +and the inhabitants call themselves Chopunnish or Pierced-nose. +The chief drew a chart of the river, and explained, +that a greater chief than himself, who governed this village +and was called the Twisted-hair, was now fishing at the +distance of half a day's ride down the river: his chart made +the Kooskooskee fork a little below his camp, a second fork +below, still further on a large branch flowed in on each +side, below which the river passed the mountains: here was +a great fall of water, near which lived white people, from +whom were procured the white beads and brass ornaments +worn by the women.</p> + +<p>A chief of another band made a visit this morning, and +smoked with captain Clarke. The hunters returned without +having been able to kill any thing; captain Clarke purchased +as much dried salmon, roots, and berries as he could, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_456" id="Pg_456" title="Pg_456">[456]</a></span>with the few articles he chanced to have in his pockets, and +having sent them by one of the men and a hired Indian back to +captain Lewis, he went on towards the camp of the Twisted-hair. +It was four o'clock before he set out, and the night +soon came on; but having met an Indian coming from the +river, they engaged him by a present of a neckcloth, to guide +them to the Twisted-hair's camp. For twelve miles they +proceeded through the plain before they reached the river +hills, which are very high and steep. The whole valley from +these hills to the Rocky mountain is a beautiful level country, +with a rich soil covered with grass: there is, however, +but little timber, and the ground is badly watered: the plain +is so much lower than the surrounding hills, or so much +sheltered by them, that the weather is quite warm, while +the cold of the mountains was extreme. From the top of +the river hills they proceeded down for three miles till they +reached the water side, between eleven and twelve o'clock +at night: here we found a small camp of five squaws and +three children, the chief himself being encamped, with two +others, on a small island in the river: the guide called to +him and he soon came over. Captain Clarke gave him a +medal, and they smoked together till one o'clock.</p> + +<p>We could not set out till eleven o'clock, because being +obliged in the evening to loosen our horses to enable them +to find subsistence, it is always difficult to collect them in +the morning. At that hour we continued along the ridge +on which we had slept, and at a mile and a half reached a +large creek running to our left, just above its junction with +one of its branches. We proceeded down the low grounds of +this creek, which are level, wide, and heavily timbered, but +turned to the right at the distance of two and a half miles, +and began to pass the broken and hilly country; but the +thick timber had fallen in so many places that we could +scarcely make our way. After going five miles we passed +the creek on which captain Clarke had encamped during the +night of the 19th, and continued five miles further over the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_457" id="Pg_457" title="Pg_457">[457]</a></span>same kind of road, till we came to the forks of a large creek. +We crossed the northern branch of this stream, and proceeded +down it on the west side for a mile: here we found a +small plain where there was tolerable grass for the horses, +and therefore remained during the night, having made fifteen +miles on a course S. 30° W.</p> + +<p>The arbor vitæ increases in size and quantity as we advance: +some of the trees we passed to-day being capable of +forming periogues at least forty-five feet in length. We +were so fortunate also as to kill a few pheasants and a prairie +wolf, which, with the remainder of the horse, supplied +us with one meal, the last of our provisions, our food for +the morrow being wholly dependent on the chance of our +guns.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 22. Captain Clarke passed over to the island +with the Twisted-hair, who seemed to be cheerful and sincere +in his conduct. The river at this place is about one +hundred and sixty yards wide, but interrupted by shoals, and +the low grounds on its borders are narrow. The hunters +brought in three deer; after which Captain Clarke left his +party, and accompanied by the Twisted-hair and his son, +rode back to the village, where he arrived about sunset: they +then walked up together to the second village, where we had +just arrived. We had intended to set out early, but one of +the men having neglected to hobble his horse he strayed +away, and we were obliged to wait till nearly twelve o'clock. +We then proceeded on a western course for two and a half +miles, when we met the hunters sent by Captain Clarke +from the village, seven and a half miles distant, with provisions. +This supply was most seasonable, as we had tasted +nothing since last night, and the fish, and roots, and berries, +in addition to a crow which we killed on the route, completely +satisfied our hunger. After this refreshment we proceeded +in much better spirits, and at a few miles were overtaken +by the two men who had been sent back after a horse +on the 20th. They were perfectly exhausted with the fatigue +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_458" id="Pg_458" title="Pg_458">[458]</a></span>of walking and the want of food; but as we had two +spare horses they were mounted and brought on to the village.</p> + +<p>They had set out about three o'clock in the afternoon of the +20th with one horse between them: after crossing the mountain +they came to the place where we had eaten the horse. +Here they encamped, and having no food made a fire and +roasted the head of the horse, which even our appetites had +spared, and supped on the ears, skin, lips, &c. of the animal. +The next morning, 21st, they found the track of the horse, +and pursuing it recovered the saddle-bags, and at length +about eleven o'clock, the horse himself. Being now both +mounted, they set out to return and slept at a small stream: +during the day they had nothing at all except two pheasants, +which were so torn to pieces by the shot, that the head and +legs were the only parts fit for food. In this situation they +found the next morning, 22d, that during the night their +horses had run away from them or been stolen by the Indians. +They searched for them until nine o'clock, when seeing +that they could not recover them and fearful of starving if +they remained where they were, they set out on foot to join +us, carrying the saddle-bags alternately. They walked as +fast as they could during the day, till they reached us in a +deplorable state of weakness and inanition.</p> + +<p>As we approached the village, most of the women, though +apprised of our being expected, fled with their children into +the neighbouring woods. The men, however, received us +without any apprehension, and gave us a plentiful supply +of provisions. The plains were now crowded with Indians, +who came to see the persons of the whites and the strange +things they brought with them: but as our guide was perfectly +a stranger to their language we could converse by +signs only. Our inquiries were chiefly directed to the situation +of the country, the courses of the rivers, and the +Indian villages, of all which we received information from +several of the Indians, and as their accounts varied but +little from each other, we were induced to place confidence +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_459" id="Pg_459" title="Pg_459">[459]</a></span>in them. Among others, the Twisted-hair drew a chart +of the river on a white elk skin. According to this, the +Kooskooskee forks a few miles from this place; two days +towards the south is another and larger fork on which the +Shoshonee or Snake Indians fish: five days' journey further +is a large river from the northwest into which Clarke's +river empties itself: from the mouth of that river to the +falls is five days' journey further: on all the forks as well +as on the main river great numbers of Indians reside, and +at the falls are establishments of whites. This was the +story of the Twisted-hair.</p> + +<p>Monday 23. The chiefs and warriors were all assembled +this morning, and we explained to them where we +came from, the objects of our visiting them, and our pacific +intentions towards all the Indians. This being conveyed +by signs, might not have been perfectly comprehended, +but appeared to give perfect satisfaction. We now gave +a medal to two of the chiefs, a shirt in addition to the medal +already received by the Twisted-hair, and delivered a +flag and a handkerchief for the grand chief on his return. +To these were added a knife, a handkerchief and a small +piece of tobacco for each chief. The inhabitants did not +give us any provisions gratuitously. We therefore purchased +a quantity of fish, berries (chiefly red haws) and +roots; and in the afternoon went on to the second village. +The Twisted-hair introduced us into his own tent, which +consisted however of nothing more than pine bushes and +bark, and gave us some dried salmon boiled. We continued +our purchases, and obtained as much provision as our horses +could carry in their present weak condition as far as +the river. The men exchanged a few old canisters for +dressed elk skins, of which they made shirts: great crowds +of the natives are round us all night, but we have not yet +missed any thing except a knife and a few other articles +stolen yesterday from a shot pouch. At dark we had a +hard wind from the southwest accompanied with rain which +lasted half an hour, but in the morning,</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_460" id="Pg_460" title="Pg_460">[460]</a></span>Tuesday 24, the weather was fair. We sent back Colter +in search of the horses lost in the mountains, and having +collected the rest set out at ten o'clock along the same +route already passed by captain Clarke towards the river. +All round the village the women are busily employed in +gathering and dressing the pasheco root, of which large +quantities are heaped up in piles over the plain. We now +felt severely the consequence of eating heartily after our +late privations: captain Lewis and two of the men were +taken very ill last evening, and to-day he could scarcely +sit on his horse, while others were obliged to be put on +horseback, and some from extreme weakness and pain, +were forced to lie down along side of the road for some +time. At sunset we reached the island where the hunters +had been left on the 22d. They had been unsuccessful, having +killed only two deer since that time, and two of them +are very sick. A little below this island is a larger one on +which we encamped, and administered Rush's pills to the +sick.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 25. The weather was very hot, and oppressive +to the party, most of whom are now complaining of sickness. +Our situation indeed, rendered it necessary to husband +our remaining strength, and it was determined to proceed +down the river in canoes. Captain Clarke therefore +set out with the Twisted-hair and two young men, in +quest of timber for canoes. As he went down the river +he crossed at the distance of a mile a creek from the right, +which from the rocks that obstructed its passage, he called +Rockdam river. The hills along the river are high and +steep: the low grounds are narrow, and the navigation of +the river embarrassed by two rapids. At the distance of +three miles further he reached two nearly equal forks of +the river, one of which flowed in from the north. Here he +rested for an hour, and cooked a few salmon which one of +the Indians caught with a gig. Here too, he was joined by +two canoes of Indians from below: they were long, steady, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_461" id="Pg_461" title="Pg_461">[461]</a></span>and loaded with the furniture and provisions of two families. +He now crossed the south fork, and returned to the +camp on the south side, through a narrow pine bottom the +greater part of the way, in which was found much fine timber +for canoes. One of the Indian boats with two men, set out +at the same time, and such was their dexterity in managing +the pole, that they reached camp within fifteen minutes +after him, although they had to drag the canoe over three +rapids. He found captain Lewis, and several of the men +still very sick; and distributed to such as were in need of it, +salts and tartar emetic.</p> + +<p>Thursday 26. Having resolved to go down to some spot +calculated for building canoes, we set out early this morning +and proceeded five miles, and encamped on low ground +on the south, opposite the forks of the river. But so weak +were the men that several were taken sick in coming down; +the weather being oppressively hot. Two chiefs and their +families followed us, and encamped with a great number +of horses near us: and soon after our arrival we were joined +by two Indians, who came down the north fork on a +raft. We purchased some fresh salmon, and having distributed +axes, and portioned off the labour of the party, began,</p> + +<p>Friday 27, at an early hour, the preparations for making +five canoes. But few of the men, however, were able +to work, and of these several were soon taken ill, as the +day proved very hot. The hunters too, returned without +any game, and seriously indisposed, so that nearly the +whole party was now ill. We procured some fresh salmon; +and Colter, who now returned with one of the horses, +brought half a deer, which was very nourishing to the invalids: +several Indians from a camp below, came up to +see us.</p> + +<p>Saturday 28. The men continue ill, though some of +those first attacked are recovering. Their general complaint +is a heaviness at the stomach, and a lax, which is +rendered more painful by the heat of the weather, and the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_462" id="Pg_462" title="Pg_462">[462]</a></span>diet of fish and roots, to which they are confined, as no game +is to be procured. A number of Indians collect about us +in the course of the day to gaze at the strange appearance +of every thing belonging to us.</p> + +<p>Sunday 29. The morning was cool, the wind from the +southwest; but in the afternoon the heat returned. The +men continue ill; but all those who are able to work are occupied +at the canoes. The spirits of the party were much +recruited by three deer brought in by the hunters; and the +next day,</p> + +<p>Monday 30th, the sick began to recruit their strength, +the morning being fair and pleasant. The Indians pass in +great numbers up and down the river, and we observe large +quantities of small duck going down this morning.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, October 1, 1805. The morning was cool, the wind +easterly, but the latter part of the day was warm. We were +visited by several Indians from the tribes below, and others +from the main south fork. To two of the most distinguished +men, we made presents of a ring and broach, and to five others +a piece of riband, a little tobacco, and the fifth part of a neckcloth. +We now dried our clothes and other articles, and +selected some articles such as the Indians admire, in order +to purchase some provisions, as we have nothing left except +a little dried fish, which operates as a complete purgative.</p> + +<p>Wednesday 2. The day is very warm. Two men were +sent to the village with a quantity of these articles to purchase +food. We are now reduced to roots, which produce +violent pains in the stomach. Our work continued as usual, +and many of the party are convalescent. The hunters returned +in the afternoon with nothing but a small prairie-wolf, +so that our provisions being exhausted, we killed one of the +horses to eat, and provide soup for the sick.</p> + +<p>Thursday 3. The fine cool morning and easterly wind +had an agreeable effect upon the party, most of whom +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_463" id="Pg_463" title="Pg_463">[463]</a></span>are now able to work. The Indians from below left us, +and we were visited by others from different quarters.</p> + +<p>Friday 4. Again we had a cool east wind from the mountains. +The men were now much better, and captain Lewis +himself so far recovered as to walk about a little. Three +Indians arrived to-day from the Great river to the south. +The two men also returned from the village with roots +and fish, and as the flesh of the horse killed yesterday was +exhausted, we were confined to that diet, although unwholesome +as well as unpleasant. The afternoon was warm.</p> + +<p>Saturday 5. The wind easterly, and the weather cool. +The canoes being nearly finished it became necessary to dispose +of our horses. They were therefore collected to the +number of thirty-eight, and being branded and marked were +delivered to three Indians, the two brothers and the son of +a chief, who promises to accompany us down the river. To +each of those men we gave a knife and some small articles, +and they agreed to take good care of the horses till our return. +The hunters with all their diligence are unable to +kill any thing, the hills being high and rugged, and the +woods too dry to hunt deer, which is the only game in the +country. We therefore continue to eat dried fish and roots, +which are purchased from the squaws, by means of small +presents, but chiefly white beads, of which they are extravagantly +fond. Some of these roots seem to possess very +active properties, for after supping on them this evening, +we were swelled to such a degree as to be scarcely able to +breathe for several hours. Towards night we lanched two +canoes which proved to be very good.</p> + +<p>Sunday 6. This morning is again cool, and the wind easterly. +The general course of the winds seems to resemble +that which we observed on the east side of the mountain. +While on the head waters of the Missouri, we had every +morning a cool wind from the west. At this place a cool +breeze springs up during the latter part of the night, or near +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_464" id="Pg_464" title="Pg_464">[464]</a></span>daybreak, and continues till seven or eight o'clock, when it +subsides, and the latter part of the day is warm. Captain +Lewis is not so well as he was, and captain Clarke was +also taken ill. We had all our saddles buried in a cache +near the river, about half a mile below, and deposited at the +same time a canister of powder, and a bag of balls. The +time which could be spared from our labours on the canoes, +was devoted to some astronomical observations. The latitude +of our camp as deduced from the mean of two observations +is 46° 34' 56" 3"' north.</p> + +<p>Monday 7. This morning all the canoes were put in the +water and loaded, the oars fixed, and every preparation +made for setting out but when we were all ready, the two +chiefs who had promised to accompany us, were not to be +found, and at the same time we missed a pipe tomahawk. +We therefore proceeded without them. Below the forks +this river is called the Kooskooskee, and is a clear rapid +stream, with a number of shoals and difficult places. For +some miles the hills are steep, the low grounds narrow, but +then succeeds an open country with a few trees scattered +along the river. At the distance of nine miles is a small +creek on the left. We passed in the course of the day ten +rapids, in descending which, one of the canoes struck a rock, +and sprung a leak: we however continued for nineteen miles, +and encamped on the left side of the river, opposite to the +mouth of a small run. Here the canoe was unloaded and +repaired, and two lead canisters of powder deposited; several +camps of Indians were on the sides of the river, but we +had little intercourse with any of them.</p> + +<p>Tuesday 8. We set out at nine o'clock. At eight and +a half miles we passed an island: four and a half miles lower +a second island, opposite a small creek on the left side of +the river. Five miles lower is another island on the left: a +mile and a half below which is a fourth. At a short distance +from this is a large creek from the right, to which we gave +the name of Colter's creek, from Colter one of the men. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_465" id="Pg_465" title="Pg_465">[465]</a></span>We had left this creek about a mile and a half, and were +passing the last of fifteen rapids which we had been fortunate +enough to escape, when one of the canoes struck, and a hole +being made in her side, she immediately filled and sunk. The +men, several of whom could not swim, clung to the boat till +one of our canoes could be unloaded, and with the assistance +of an Indian boat, they were all brought to shore. All +the goods were so much wet, that we were obliged to halt +for the night, and spread them out to dry. While all this +was exhibited, it was necessary to place two sentinels over +the merchandise, for we found that the Indians, though +kind and disposed to give us every aid during our distress, +could not resist the temptation of pilfering some of the small +articles. We passed during our route of twenty miles to-day, +several encampments of Indians on the islands, and near +the rapids, which places are chosen as most convenient for +taking salmon. At one of these camps we found our two +chiefs, who after promising to descend the river with us, had +left us; they however willingly came on board after we had +gone through the ceremony of smoking.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 9. The morning was as usual, cool; but as +the weather both yesterday and to-day was cloudy, our +merchandise dried but slowly. The boat, though much injured, +was repaired by ten o'clock so as to be perfectly fit +for service; but we were obliged to remain during the day +till the articles were sufficiently dry to be reloaded: the interval +we employed in purchasing fish for the voyage and +conversing with the Indians. In the afternoon we were surprised +at hearing that our old Shoshonee guide and his son had +left us, and been seen running up the river several miles above. +As he had never given any notice of his intention, nor had even +received his pay for guiding us, we could not imagine the +cause of his desertion, nor did he ever return to explain his +conduct. We requested the chief to send a horseman after +him to request that he would return and receive what we +owed him. From this however he dissuaded us, and said +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_466" id="Pg_466" title="Pg_466">[466]</a></span>very frankly, that his nation, the Chopunnish, would take +from the old man any presents that he might have on passing +their camp.</p> + +<p>The Indians came about our camp at night, and were +very gay and good-humoured with the men. Among other +exhibitions was that of a squaw who appeared to be crazy: +she sang in a wild incoherent manner, and would offer to the +spectators all the little articles she possessed, scarifying +herself in a horrid manner if any one refused her present: +she seemed to be an object of pity among the Indians, who +suffered her to do as she pleased without interruption.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 10. A fine morning. We loaded the canoes +and set off at seven o'clock. At the distance of two and a +half miles we had passed three islands, the last of which is +opposite to a small stream on the right. Within the following +three and a half miles is another island and a creek +on the left, with wide low grounds, containing willow and +cottonwood trees, on which were three tents of Indians. +Two miles lower is the head of a large island, and six and a +half miles further we halted at an encampment of eight +lodges on the left, in order to view a rapid before us: we had +already passed eight, and some of them difficult; but this +was worse than any of them, being a very hazardous ripple +strewed with rocks: we here purchased roots and dined with +the Indians. Among them was a man from the falls, who +says that he saw white people at that place and is very desirous +of going down with us; an offer which however we +declined. Just above this camp we had passed a tent, near +which was an Indian bathing himself in a small pond or hole +of water, warmed by throwing in hot stones. After finishing +our meal we descended the rapid with no injury, except +to one of our boats which ran against a rock, but in the +course of an hour was brought off with only a small split in +her side. This ripple, from its appearance and difficulty, +we named the Rugged rapid. We went on over five other +rapids of a less dangerous kind, and at the distance of five +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_467" id="Pg_467" title="Pg_467">[467]</a></span>miles reached a large fork of the river from the south; and +after coming twenty miles, halted below the junction on +the right side of the river: our arrival soon attracted the +attention of the Indians, who flocked in all directions to see +us. In the evening the Indian from the falls, whom we had +seen at the Rugged rapid, joined us with his son in a small +canoe, and insisted on accompanying us to the falls. Being +again reduced to fish and roots we made an experiment to +vary our food by <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: The text reads 'purchsing'.">purchasing</ins> a few dogs, and after having +been accustomed to horse-flesh, felt no disrelish to this new +dish. The Chopunnish have great numbers of dogs which +they employ for domestic purposes, but never eat; and our +using the flesh of that animal soon brought us into ridicule +as dog-eaters.</p> + +<p>The country at the junction of the two rivers is an open +plain on all sides, broken towards the left by a distant ridge +of highland, thinly covered with timber: this is the only +body of timber which the country possesses; for at the forks +there is not a tree to be seen, and during almost the whole +descent of sixty miles down the Kooskooskee from its forks +there are very few. This southern branch is in fact the +main stream of Lewis's river on which we encamped when +among the Shoshonees. The Indians inform us that it is +navigable for sixty miles; that not far from its mouth it +receives a branch from the south; and a second and +larger branch, two days' march up, and nearly parallel to +the first Chopunnish villages, we met near the mountains. +This branch is called Pawnashte, and is the residence of a +chief, who, according to their expression, has more horses +than he can count. The river has many rapids, near which are +situated many fishing camps; there being ten establishments +of this before reaching the first southern branch; one on +that stream, five between that and the Pawnashte; one on +that river, and two above it; besides many other Indians +who reside high up on the more distant waters of this river. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_468" id="Pg_468" title="Pg_468">[468]</a></span>All these Indians belong to the Chopunnish nation, and live +in tents of an oblong form, covered with flat roofs.</p> + +<p>At its mouth Lewis's river is about two hundred and +fifty yards wide, and its water is of a greenish blue colour. +The Kooskooskee, whose waters are clear as crystal, one +hundred and fifty yards in width, and after the union the +river enlarges to the space of three hundred yards: at the +point of the union is an Indian cabin, and in Lewis's river a +small island.</p> + +<p>The Chopunnish or Pierced-nose nation, who reside on +the Kooskooskee and Lewis's rivers, are in person stout, +portly, well-looking men: the women are small, with good +features, and generally handsome, though the complexion +of both sexes is darker than that of the Tushepaws. In +dress they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying +their ornaments. The buffaloe or elk-skin robe decorated +with beads, sea-shells, chiefly mother-of-pearl, attached to +an otter-skin collar and hung in the hair, which falls in +front in two queues; feathers, paints of different kinds, principally +white, green, and light blue, all of which they find +in their own country: these are the chief ornaments they +use. In the winter they wear a short shirt of dressed skins, +long painted leggings and moccasins, and a plait of twisted +grass round the neck.</p> + +<p>The dress of the women is more simple, consisting of a +long shirt of argalia or ibex skin, reaching down to the ankles +without a girdle: to this are tied little pieces of brass +and shells and other small articles; but the head is not at +all ornamented. The dress of the female is indeed more +modest, and more studiously so than any we have observed, +though the other sex is careless of the indelicacy of exposure.</p> + +<p>The Chopunnish have very few amusements, for their +life is painful and laborious; and all their exertions are necessary +to earn even their precarious subsistence. During +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_469" id="Pg_469" title="Pg_469">[469]</a></span>the summer and autumn they are busily occupied in fishing +for salmon, and collecting their winter store of roots. In +the winter they hunt the deer on snow shoes over the plains, +and towards spring cross the mountains to the Missouri for +the purpose of trafficking for buffaloe robes. The inconveniences +of that comfortless life are increased by frequent +encounters with their enemies from the west, who drive +them over the mountains with the loss of their horses, and +sometimes the lives of many of the nation. Though originally +the same people, their dialect varies very perceptibly +from that of the Tushepaws: their treatment to us differed +much from the kind and disinterested services of the Shoshonees: +they are indeed selfish and avaricious; they part +very reluctantly with every article of food or clothing; and +while they expect a recompense for every service however +small, do not concern themselves about reciprocating any +presents we may give them.</p> + +<p>They are generally healthy—the only disorders which +we have had occasion to remark being of a scrophulous +kind, and for these, as well as for the amusement of those +who are in good health, hot and cold bathing is very commonly +used.</p> + +<p>The soil of these prairies is of a light yellow clay intermixed +with small smooth grass: it is barren, and produces +little more than a bearded grass about three inches high, +and a prickly pear, of which we now found three species: +the first is of the broad-leafed kind, common to the +Missouri. The second has the leaf of a globular form, and +is also frequent on the upper part of the Missouri, particularly +after it enters the Rocky mountains. The third is pecular +to this country, and is much more inconvenient than +the other two: it consists of small thick leaves of a circular +form, which grow from the margin of each other as in the +broad-leafed pear of the Missouri: these leaves are armed +with a greater number of thorns, which are stronger, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_470" id="Pg_470" title="Pg_470">[470]</a></span>appear to be barbed; and as the leaf itself is very slightly +attached to the stem, as soon as one thorn touches the moccasin +it adheres and brings with it the leaf, which is accompanied +by a reenforecement of thorns.<br /></p> + +<p class="return"><a href="#contents">[TABLE OF CONTENTS]</a></p> + + +<p class="center">END OF VOLUME 1.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of History of the Expedition under the +Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I., by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEWIS AND CLARK, I. *** + +***** This file should be named 16565-h.htm or 16565-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/5/6/16565/ + +Produced by The Library of Congress, Marilynda +Fraser-Cunliffe, Peter Barozzi and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + + +</pre> + +</body> +</html> diff --git a/16565-h/images/lc_001_h.jpg b/16565-h/images/lc_001_h.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..02a70f5 --- /dev/null +++ b/16565-h/images/lc_001_h.jpg diff --git a/16565-h/images/lc_001_m.jpg b/16565-h/images/lc_001_m.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a7dc801 --- /dev/null +++ b/16565-h/images/lc_001_m.jpg diff --git a/16565-h/images/lc_001_t.jpg b/16565-h/images/lc_001_t.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..02caf6b --- /dev/null +++ b/16565-h/images/lc_001_t.jpg diff --git a/16565-h/images/lc_263_f.jpg b/16565-h/images/lc_263_f.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1bc93ec --- /dev/null +++ b/16565-h/images/lc_263_f.jpg diff --git a/16565-h/images/lc_263_t.jpg b/16565-h/images/lc_263_t.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5017ba6 --- /dev/null +++ b/16565-h/images/lc_263_t.jpg diff --git a/16565-h/images/lc_62_f.jpg b/16565-h/images/lc_62_f.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c7a5c9 --- /dev/null +++ b/16565-h/images/lc_62_f.jpg diff --git a/16565-h/images/lc_62_t.jpg b/16565-h/images/lc_62_t.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..29d5959 --- /dev/null +++ b/16565-h/images/lc_62_t.jpg |
