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diff --git a/16572.txt b/16572.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e9d5872 --- /dev/null +++ b/16572.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2853 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Indians of the Yosemite Valley and Vicinity +by Galen Clark + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Indians of the Yosemite Valley and Vicinity + Their History, Customs and Traditions + +Author: Galen Clark + +Release Date: August 21, 2005 [EBook #16572] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INDIANS OF THE YOSEMITE *** + + + + +Produced by David Starner, Jim Land and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Taber_.] + +[Signature: Galen Clark] + + + + + +INDIANS +OF +THE YOSEMITE VALLEY +AND VICINITY + +Their History, Customs and Traditions + +BY +GALEN CLARK + + +Author of "Big Trees of California," Discoverer of the Mariposa +Grove of Big Trees, and for many years Guardian +of the Yosemite Valley. + + +With an Appendix +of +Useful Information for Yosemite Visitors + + +ILLUSTRATED BY +CHRIS. JORGENSEN +AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS + +YOSEMITE VALLEY, CALIFORNIA + +GALEN CLARK + +1907 + + + + +Copyright 1904, by Galen Clark + + + +TO MY FRIEND +CHARLES HOWARD BURNETT + + +Contents + +INTRODUCTION AND SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR ix + +CHAPTER + I. EARLY HISTORY 1 + II. EFFECTS OF THE WAR 14 +III. CUSTOMS AND CHARACTERISTICS 21 + IV. SOURCES OF FOOD SUPPLY 31 + V. RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES AND BELIEFS 49 + VI. NATIVE INDUSTRIES 67 +VII. MYTHS AND LEGENDS 76 + +APPENDIX: + Hints to Yosemite Visitors 101 + Official Table of Distances and Livery + Charges 105 + Supplementary Table of Distances 107 + Interpretation of Indian Names 107 + Tables of Altitudes 110 + Names of Indian Numerals 111 + Indian Words in Common Use 111 + Tribes Placed on Reservations in 1850-51 112 + + +List of Illustrations + +COVER DESIGN Mrs. Jorgensen +FRONTISPIECE, GALEN CLARK Taber + + PAGE + +YOSEMITE FALLS, Fiske 3 +AN INDIAN DANCER, Boysen 8 +THREE BROTHERS, Foley 13 +CAPTAIN PAUL, Foley 17 +YOSEMITE MOTHER AND PAPOOSE, Boysen 20 +INDIAN O'-CHUM, Jorgensen 25 +YOSEMITE MAIDEN IN NATIVE DRESS, Jorgensen 27 +A YOSEMITE HUNTER, Jorgensen 32 +INDIAN SWEAT HOUSE, Jorgensen 34 +CHUCK'-AH, Mrs. Jorgensen 39 +HO'-YAS AND ME-TATS', Fiske 42 +A WOOD GATHERER, Fiske 47 +A YOUNG YOSEMITE, Dove 53 +LENA AND VIRGIL, Boysen 55 +OLD KALAPINE, Boysen 62 +YOSEMITE BASKETRY, Boysen 66 +MRS. JORGENSEN'S BASKETS 68 +INDIAN BEAD WORK, Fiske 70 +A BASKET MAKER, Boysen 73 +MARY, Boysen 79 +HALF DOME, Foley 84 +A BURDEN BEARER, Fiske 88 +EL CAPITAN, Foley 91 +NORTH DOME, Foley 93 +BRIDAL VEIL, FALL, Fiske 97 + + + + +Introduction and Sketch of the Author + + +Galen Clark, the author of this little volume, is one of the +notable characters of California, and the one best fitted to +record the customs and traditions of the Yosemite Indians, but it +was only after much persuasion that his friends succeeded in +inducing him to write the history of these interesting people, +with whom he has been in close communication for half a century. + +The Indians of the Yosemite are fast passing away. Only a handful +now remain of the powerful tribes that once gathered in the +Valley and considered it an absolute stronghold against their +white enemies. Even in their diminished numbers and their +comparatively civilized condition, they are still a source of +great interest to all visitors, and it has been suggested many +times that their history, customs and legends should be put in +permanent and convenient form, before they are entirely lost. + +Many tales and histories of the California Indians have been +written by soldiers and pioneers, but Mr. Clark has told the +story of these people from their own standpoint, and with a +sympathetic understanding of their character. This fresh point of +view gives double interest to his narrative. + +Galen Clark comes of a notable family; his English ancestors came +to the State of Massachusetts in the seventeenth century, but he +is a native of the Town of Dublin, Cheshire County, New +Hampshire, born on the 28th day of March, 1814, and is +consequently nearly ninety years of age, but still alert and +active in mind and body. + +He attended school in his early youth during the winter months, +and worked on a farm during the summer, leading nearly the same +life which was followed by so many others who afterwards became +famous in our country's history. + +Later in life he learned chair-making and painting, an occupation +which he followed for some years, when he removed to Philadelphia +and subsequently to New York City. + +Whilst residing in New York, in 1853, he resolved, after mature +reflection, to visit the new Eldorado. His attention was first +attracted to this State by visiting the celebrated Crystal +Palace in New York, where was then on exhibition quantities of +gold dust which had been sent or brought East by successful +miners. + +Mr. Clark left New York for California in October, 1853, coming +via the Isthmus of Panama, and in due time reached his +destination. In 1854 he went to Mariposa County, attracted +thither by the wonderful accounts of the gold discoveries, and +the marvelous stories he had heard of the grandeur and beauty of +the Yosemite Valley and the surrounding mountains. + +Upon his first arrival in Mariposa, he engaged in mining, and was +also employed to assist in surveying Government land on the west +side of the San Joaquin Valley, and canals for mining purposes, +some of which passed through the celebrated "Mariposa Grant," the +subject of prolonged and bitter litigation, both in this country +and in Europe. He probably knows more about the actual facts +concerning the Mariposa Grant than any one now living, and it is +to be hoped that some day he may overcome his natural repugnance +to notoriety, and give to the public the benefit of his +knowledge. + +In the year 1855 Mr. Clark made his first trip into the Yosemite +Valley with a party made up in Mariposa and Bear Valley. + +Returning to Mariposa, he resumed his old occupation of surveying +and mining, and, whilst so engaged, by reason of exposure, had a +serious attack of lung trouble, resulting in severe hemorrhages +which threatened to end his life. + +He then removed, in April, 1857, to the South Fork of the Merced +River, and built a log cabin in one of the most beautiful of our +mountain valleys, on the spot where Wawona now stands. He soon +recovered his health entirely, and, though constantly exposed to +the winter storms and snows, has never had a recurrence of his +malady. + +Wawona is twenty-six miles from Yosemite, and at that time became +known as Clark's Station, being on the trail leading from +Mariposa to the Valley, and a noted stopping place for travelers. +This trail, as well as one from Coulterville, was completed to +the Valley in 1857, and the trip to Yosemite then involved a +stage ride of ninety-two miles, and a journey of sixty miles more +on horseback. In 1874 and 1875 the three present stage roads were +constructed through to the Valley. + +All travelers by the Raymond route will remember Wawona and the +surroundings; the peaceful valley, the swift-flowing Merced, and +the surrounding peaks and mountains, almost equaling in grandeur +the famous Yosemite itself. + +In the early days this locality was annually visited by several +bands of Indians from the Chowchilla and Fresno rivers. The +Indian name for the place was Pal-lah'-chun. Whilst residing +there Mr. Clark was in constant contact with these visiting +tribes; he obtained their confidence, and retains it to this day. + +Whilst on a hunting trip, in the summer of 1857, Mr. Clark +discovered and made known to the public the famous Big Tree +Grove, now known all over the world as the "Mariposa Grove of Big +Trees," belonging to the State of California. On this expedition +he did not follow the route now traveled, but came upon the grove +at the upper end, near the place where the road to Wawona Point +now branches off from the main drive. The spot where he caught +his first view of the Big Trees has been appropriately marked, +and can be seen from the stage road. + +So impressed was Mr. Clark with the importance of his discovery, +that he opened up a good horse trail from Wawona to the Trees, +and shortly afterwards built a log cabin in the grove, for the +comfort and convenience of visitors in bad or stormy weather. +This cabin became known as "Galen's Hospice." + +In the year 1864 the Congress of the United States passed an Act, +which was approved in June of the same year, granting to the +State of California the "Yosemite Valley" and the "Mariposa Grove +of Big Trees." This grant was made upon certain conditions, which +were complied with by the State, and a Commission was appointed +by Governor Low to manage and govern the Valley and the Big Tree +Grove. Galen Clark was, of course, selected as one of the +commissioners. He was subsequently appointed Guardian of the +Valley, and under his administration many needed improvements +were made and others suggested. Bridges were built, roads +constructed on the floor of the Valley, and trails laid out and +finished to various points of interest overlooking the Valley +itself. In a word, the Guardian did everything possible with the +limited means at his disposal. + +After serving twenty-four years, Mr. Clark voluntarily retired +from the position of Guardian, carrying with him the respect and +admiration of every member of the Commission, of all the +residents of the Valley, and of every visitor who enjoyed the +pleasure of his personal acquaintance. + +As showing the opinion of those with whom Mr. Clark was +intimately and officially associated for so long a time, the +following resolutions passed by the Board of Commissioners upon +his voluntary retirement from the office of Guardian, are herein +given: + + Whereas, Galen Clark has for a long number of years been + closely identified with Yosemite Valley, and has for a + considerable portion of that time been its Guardian; and + + Whereas, he has now, by his own choice and will, + relinquished the trust confided in him and retired into + private life; and + + Whereas, his faithful and eminent services as Guardian, his + constant efforts to preserve, protect and enhance the + beauties of Yosemite; his dignified, kindly and courteous + demeanor to all who have come to see and enjoy its wonders, + and his upright and noble life, deserve from us a fitting + recognition and memorial; Now, Therefore, be it + + Resolved, That the cordial assurance of the appreciation by + this Commission of the efforts and labors of Galen Clark, as + Guardian of Yosemite, in its behalf, be tendered and + expressed to him. + + That we recognize in him a faithful, efficient and worthy + citizen and officer of this Commission and of the State; + that he will be followed into his retirement by the + sincerest and best wishes of this Commission, individually + and as a body, for continued long life and constant + happiness. + +The subject of this sketch is one of the most modest of men; but +perfectly self-reliant, and always actively engaged in some +useful work. He has resided in the Valley for more than twenty +summers, and has also been a resident during many winters, and +his descriptions of the Valley, when wrapped in snow and ice, are +intensely interesting. Though always ready to give information, +he is naturally reticent, and never forces his stories or +reminiscences upon visitors; indeed it requires some persuasion +to hear him talk about himself at all. For some years Mr. Clark +was postmaster of Yosemite; and he has made many trips on foot, +both in winter and summer, in and out of the Valley. + +In September, 1903, this writer made a trip through the high +Sierras from Yosemite, and, upon reaching the top of the Valley +Mr. Clark was met coming down the trail, having in charge a party +of his friends, amongst whom was a lady with her two small +children. This was at a point 2700 feet above the floor of the +Valley, which is itself 4000 feet above the level of the sea. + +Needless to say, he is perfectly familiar with all the mountain +trails, and, notwithstanding his great age, he easily makes long +trips on foot and horseback which would fatigue a much younger +man. Mr. Clark is thoroughly familiar with the flora, fauna and +geology of the Valley and its surroundings. His knowledge of +botany is particularly accurate, a knowledge gleaned partly from +books, but mainly from close personal observation, the best +possible teacher. + +His long residence in Yosemite has made him familiar with every +spot, his love for the Valley is deep and strong, and when he +departs this life his remains will rest close to the Yosemite +Falls, in the little grave yard where other pioneers are buried. + +With his own hands he has dug his grave, and quarried his own +tombstone from one of the massive blocks of granite found in the +immediate neighborhood. His monument now rests in his grave, and +when it is removed to receive his remains, will be used to mark +his last resting place. His grave is surrounded by a neat fence, +and trees, shrubs and vines, which he has himself planted, grow +around in great profusion. In each corner of the lot is a young +_Sequoia_. + +May it be many years before he is called to occupy his last +earthly tenement. + +W.W. FOOTE. + +_San Francisco, +February, 1904_. + + + + +INDIANS OF THE YOSEMITE + + + + +INDIANS OF THE YOSEMITE + + + + +Chapter One. + +EARLY HISTORY. + + +During the past few years a rapidly growing interest in the +native Indians has been manifested by a large majority of +visitors to the Yosemite Valley. They have evinced a great desire +to see them in their rudely constructed summer camps, and to +purchase some articles of their artistic basket and bead work, to +take away as highly prized souvenirs. + +They are also anxious to learn something of their former modes of +life, habits and domestic industries, before their original +tribal relations were ruthlessly broken up by the sudden advent +of the white population of gold miners and others in 1850, and +the subsequent war, in which the Indians were defeated, and, as +a result, nearly exterminated. + + +ORIGIN OF THE YOSEMITE INDIANS. + +According to statements made by Teneiya _(Ten-eye'-ya)_ [see +footnote] chief of the Yosemites, to Dr. L.H. Bunnell, and +published by him in his book on the "Discovery of the Yosemite", +the original Indian name of the Valley was Ah-wah'-nee, which +has been translated as "deep grassy valley", and the Indians +living there were called Ah-wah-nee'-chees, which signified +"dwellers in Ah-wah'-nee." + +[Footnote: The Indian names are usually pronounced exactly as +spelled, with each syllable distinctly sounded, and the principal +accent on the penult, as in Ah-wah'-nee, or the antepenult, as +in Yo-sem'-i-te. Where doubt might exist, the accent will be +indicated, or the pronunciation given in parenthesis.] + +[Transcriber's note: The remaining footnotes in the original text are +moved, in the present version, into the line of text and are +marked by square brackets, thus: Ah-wah'-nee [Yosemite Valley].] + +Many years ago, the old chief said, the Ah-wah-nee'-chees had +been a large and powerful tribe, but by reason of wars and a +fatal black sickness, nearly all had been destroyed, and the +survivors of the band fled from the Valley and joined other +tribes. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Fiske_. +YOSEMITE FALLS (CHO'-LACK), 2,634 Feet. +Near the foot of these falls was located the village of +Ah-wah'-nee, the Indian capital and residence of Chief Teneiya. +There were eight other villages in the Valley.] + +For years afterwards this locality was uninhabited, but finally +Teneiya, who claimed to be descended from an Ah-wah-nee'-chee +chief, left the Mo'nos, where he had born and brought up, +and, gathering of his father's old tribe around him, visited the +Valley and claimed it as the birthright of his people. He then +became the founder of a new tribe or band, which received the +name "Yo-sem'-i-te." This word signifies a full-grown grizzly +bear, and Teneiya said that the name had been given to his band +because they occupied the mountains and valley which were the +favorite resort of the grizzly bears, and his people were expert +in killing them; that his tribe had adopted the name because +those who had bestowed it were afraid of the grizzlies, and also +feared his band. + +The Yosemites were perhaps the most warlike of any of the tribes +in this part of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, who were, as a rule, +a peaceful people, dividing the territory among them, and +indulging in few controversies. In fact, these Indians in general +were less belligerent and warlike than any others on the Pacific +Coast. When difficulties arose, they were usually settled +peacefully by arbitration, in a grand council of the chiefs and +head men of the tribes involved, without resorting to open +hostilities. + + +OTHER TRIBES. + +Other bands of Indians in the vicinity of the Yosemite Valley +were the Po-ho-nee'-chees who lived near the headwaters of the +Po-ho'-no or Bridal Veil Creek in summer, and on the South Fork +of the Merced' River in winter, about twelve miles below +Wawo'na; the Po-to-en'-cies, who lived on the Merced River; +Wil-tuc-um'-nees, Tuol'-unme River; Noot'-choos and +Chow-chil'-las, Chowchilla Valley; Ho-na'-ches and +Me'-woos, Fresno River and vicinity; and Chook-chan'-ces, San +Joaquin River and vicinity. + +These tribes, including the Yosemites, were all somewhat +affiliated by common ancestry or by intermarriage, and were +similar in their general characteristics and customs. They were +all called by the early California settlers, "Digger Indians," as +a term of derision, on account of their not being good fighters, +and from their practice of digging the tuberous roots of certain +plants, for food. + + +INDIAN WAR OF 1851. + +Dr. Bunnell, in his book already referred to, has given the +soldiers' and white men's account of the cause of the Indian war +of 1851, but a statement of the grievances on the part of the +Indians, which caused the uniting of all the different tribes in +the mining region adjacent to Yosemite, in an attempt to drive +the white invaders from their country, has never been published, +and a brief account of these grievances may be interesting. + + +AGGRESSIONS BY THE WHITE SETTLERS. + +The first parties of prospecting miners were welcomed by the +Indians with their usual friendliness and hospitality toward +strangers--a universal characteristic of these tribes,--and the +mining for gold was watched with great interest. They soon +learned the value of the gold dust, and some of them engaged in +mining, and exchanged their gold at the trading stations for +blankets and fancy trinkets, at an enormous profit to the +traders, and peace and good feeling prevailed for a short time. + +The report of the rich gold "diggin's" on the waters of the +Tuolumne, Merced, Mariposa, Chowchilla, and Fresno Rivers, soon +spread, and miners by thousands came and took possession of the +whole country, paying no regard to the natural rights or wishes +of the Indians. + +Some of the Indian chiefs made the proposition that if the miners +would give them some of the gold which they found in their part +of the country, they might stay and work. This offer was not +listened to by the miners, and a large majority of the white +invaders treated the natives as though they had no rights +whatever to be respected. In some instances, where Indians had +found and were working good mining claims, they were forcibly +driven away by white miners, who took possession of their claims +and worked them. + +Moreover, the Indians saw that their main sources of food supply +were being rapidly destroyed. The oak trees, which produced the +acorns--one of their staple articles of food,--were being cut +down and burned by miners and others in clearing up land for +cultivation, and the deer and other food game were being +rapidly killed off or driven from the locality. + +[Illustration: _Copyrighted Photograph by Boysen_. +AN INDIAN DANCER. +Chow-chil-la Indian in full war-dance costume.] + +In the "early days," before California was admitted as a free +State into the Union, it was reported, and was probably true, +that some of the immigrants from the slave-holding States took +Indians and made slaves of them in working their mining claims. +It was no uncommon event for the sanctity of their homes and +families to be invaded by some of the "baser sort," and young +women taken, willing or not, for servants and wives. + + +RETALIATION. + +In retaliation, and as some compensation for these many grievous +outrages upon their natural inalienable rights of domain and +property, and their native customs, the Indians stole horses and +mules from the white settlers, and killed them for food for their +families, who, in many instances, were in a condition of +starvation. + +Finally the chiefs and leading men of all the tribes involved met +in a grand council, and resolved to combine their warrior forces +in one great effort to drive all their white enemies from the +country, before they became more numerous and formidable. + + +BEGINNING OF HOSTILITIES. + +To prepare for this struggle for existence, they made raids upon +some of the principal trading posts in the mining sections, +killed those in charge, took all the blankets, clothing and +provisions they could carry away, and fled to the mountains, +where they were soon pursued by the soldiers and volunteer +citizens, and a spirited battle was fought without any decisive +advantage to either side. + +The breaking out of actual hostilities created great excitement +among the whites, and an urgent call was made upon the Governor +of the State for a military force to meet the emergency, and +protect the settlers--a force strong enough to thoroughly subdue +the Indians, and remove all of them to reservations to be +selected by the United States Indian Commissioners for that +purpose. + +Meantime the Governor and the Commissioners, who had then +arrived, were receiving numerous communications, many of them +from persons in high official positions, earnestly urging a more +humane and just policy, averring that the Indians had real cause +for complaint, that they had been "more sinned against than +sinning" since the settling of California by the whites, and that +they were justly entitled to protection by the Government and +compensation for the spoliations and grievances they had +suffered. + +These protests doubtless had some influence in delaying hostile +measures, and in the inauguration of efforts to induce the +Indians to come in and treat with the Commissioners, envoys being +sent out to assure them of fair treatment and personal safety. +Many of the Indians accepted these offers, and, as the different +tribes surrendered, they were taken to the two reservations which +the Commissioners had established for them on the Fresno River, +the principal one being a few miles above the place where the +town of Madera is now located. + +As before stated, these Indians were not a warlike people. Their +only weapons were their bows and arrows, and these they soon +found nearly useless in defending themselves at long range +against soldiers armed with rifles. Moreover, their stock of +provisions was so limited that they either had to surrender or +starve. + + +DISCOVERY OF YOSEMITE VALLEY. + +The Yosemites and one or two other bands of Indians had refused +to surrender, and had retreated to their mountain strongholds, +where they proposed to make a last determined resistance. Active +preparations were accordingly made by the State authorities to +follow them, and either capture or exterminate all the tribes +involved. For this purpose a body of State volunteers, known as +the Mariposa Battalion, was organized, under the command of Major +James D. Savage, to pursue these tribes into the mountains; and, +after many long marches and some fighting, the Indians were all +defeated, captured, and, with their women and children, put upon +the reservations under strong military guard. + +It was during this campaign that Major Savage and his men +discovered the Yosemite Valley, about the 21st of March, 1851, +while in pursuit of the Yosemites, under old Chief Teneiya, for +whom Lake Teneiya and Teneiya Canyon have appropriately been +named. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Foley._ +THREE BROTHERS (WAW-HAW'-KEE), 3,900 Feet. +Named by the soldiers who discovered the Valley, to commemorate +the capture of three sons of Teneiya near this place. The Indian +name means "Falling Rocks."] + + + + +Chapter Two. + +EFFECTS OF THE WAR. + + +The Yosemites and all of the other tribes named in the previous +chapter were put upon the Fresno reservation. Major Savage, who +had been the leading figure in the war against the Indians, was +perhaps their best friend while in captivity, and finally lost +his life in a personal quarrel, while resenting a wrong which had +been committed against them. + +The tribes from south of the San Joaquin River, who were also +conquered in 1851, were put upon the Kings River and Tejon +(_Tay-hone'_) reservations. + + +LIFE ON THE RESERVATIONS. + +Ample food supplies, blankets, clothing and cheap fancy articles +were furnished by the Government for the subsistence, comfort and +pleasure of the Indians on the reservations, and for a short time +they seemed to be contented, and to enjoy the novelty of their +new mode of life. The young, able-bodied men were put to work +assisting in clearing, fencing and cultivating fields for hay +and vegetables, and thus they were partially self-supporting. A +large portion of them, however, soon began to tire of the +restraints imposed, and longed for their former condition of +freedom, and many of them sickened and died. + +Old Teneiya, chief of the "Grizzlies," was particularly affected +by the change in his surroundings, and by the humiliation of +defeat. He suffered keenly from the hot weather of the plains, +after his free life in the mountains, and begged to be allowed to +return to his old home, promising not to disturb the white +settlers in any way, a pledge which he did not break. + + +DEATH OF TENEIYA. + +Teneiya was finally allowed to depart, with his family, after +having been on the reservation only a few months, and some of his +old followers afterwards stole away and joined him. With this +remnant of his band he returned to the Yosemite, but not long +afterwards they were set upon by the Monos, a tribe from the +eastern side of the Sierras, with whom they had quarreled, and +the old chief and many of his warriors were killed. It was +perhaps fitting that he should meet his death in the valley which +he loved, and which he had so long defended against his enemies. + + +RESTORED TO LIBERTY. + +In 1855, after four years of confinement on the reservations, an +agreement was made with the Indian Commissioners, by the head men +of the tribes, that if their people were again allowed their +freedom, they would forever remain in peace with the white +settlers, and try and support themselves free of expense to the +Government. They were soon permitted to leave, and have ever +since faithfully kept their promise. + +Most of them went back to the vicinity of their old homes, and +made temporary settlements on unoccupied Government land, as many +of their old village sites were now in possession of white +settlers. As there was a very large crop of acorns that season, +they gathered an abundant supply for winter use, and, with what +was given to them in the way of food and clothing by some of the +white settlers, they managed to get through the winter fairly +well. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Foley_. +CAPTAIN PAUL. +One of the characters of the Valley. Supposed to be 105 years +old, and a survivor of Teneiya's band.] + + +HARDSHIP AND SUFFERING. + +Their four years' residence on the reservations, however, had +been more of a school in the vices of the whites than one of a +higher education. They became demoralized socially, addicted to +many bad habits, and left the reservations in worse condition +than when they were taken there. Their old tribal relations and +customs were nearly broken up, though they still had their head +men to whom they looked for counsel in all important matters. + +As the country became more settled, much of their main food +supply, the acorns, was consumed by the domestic animals of the +ranchers, and their mode of living became more precarious and +transitory, and many of them were, at times, in a condition near +to starvation. In these straitened and desperate circumstances, +many of their young women were used as commercial property, and +peddled out to the mining camps and gambling saloons for money to +buy food, clothing or whisky, this latter article being obtained +through the aid of some white person, in violation of law. + +Their miserable, squalid condition of living opened the way for +diseases of a malignant character, which their medicine men could +not cure, and their numbers were rapidly reduced by death. + +At the present time there are not in existence a half-dozen of +the old Yosemites who were living, even as children, when the +Valley was first discovered in 1851; and many of the other tribes +have been correspondingly reduced. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Boysen._ +YOSEMITE MOTHER AND PAPOOSE. +The baby basket is carried on the back, like all burdens, and +supported by a band across the forehead.] + + + + +Chapter Three. + +CUSTOMS AND CHARACTERISTICS. + + +As stated in a previous chapter, all of the Indian tribes +occupying the region in the vicinity of the Yosemite Valley were +more or less affiliated by blood and intermarriage and resembled +each other in their customs, characteristics and religious +beliefs. What is said, therefore, on these subjects in the +following pages, will be understood to apply generally to all of +the tribes which have been mentioned as inhabiting this region, +although, of course, minor differences did exist, principally due +to environment. As in the case of all primitive peoples, their +mode of life, food supply, etc., were largely determined by +natural conditions, and the tribes living in the warm foot-hills +differed somewhat in these respects from those dwelling higher in +the mountains. + + +DIVISION OF TERRITORY. + +In their original tribal settlements, at the time the first +pioneer whites came among them, the Indians had well defined or +understood boundary lines, between the territories claimed by +each tribe for their exclusive use in hunting game and gathering +means of support; and any trespassing on the domain of others was +likely to cause trouble. This arrangement, however, did not apply +to the higher ranges of the Sierras, which were considered common +hunting ground. + + +COMMERCE AMONG THE TRIBES. + +As there was a difference in the natural products and resources +of different sections of the country, there was a system of +reciprocal trade in the exchange of the different desirable +commodities. Sometimes commerce between tribes extended for a +long distance, as, for instance, the Indians on the western side +of the Sierra Nevada Mountains were entirely dependent upon the +Pai-utes _(Pye-yutes')_ on the eastern side for the obsidian, a +kind of volcanic glass, from which they made the points for their +most deadly arrows, used in hunting large game or when in mortal +combat with their enemies. They were also dependent upon the +Pai-utes for their supply of salt for domestic use, which came in +solid blocks as quarried from salt mines, said to be two days' +travel on foot from Mono Lake. + +From the Indians at or near the Catholic Missions to the South, +on the Pacific Coast, they got their hunting knives of iron or +steel, and sea shells of various kinds, for personal or dress +ornaments, and also to be used as money. From the same source +they obtained beads of various forms, sizes and colors, cheap +jewelry and other fancy articles, a few blankets, and pieces of +red bunting, strips of which the chiefs and head men wore around +their heads as badges, indicating their official positions. + + +COMMUNICATION. + +They had a very efficient system of quickly spreading important +news by relays of special couriers, who took the news to the +first stations or tribes in different directions, where others +took the verbal dispatches and ran to the next station, and so +on, so that all tribes within an area of a hundred miles would +get the good or bad tidings within a few hours. In this manner +important communication was kept up between the different tribes. +They also had well organized signal systems, by fires in the +night and smoke by day, on high points of observation--variations +in the lights (either steady, bright or flashing) indicating +somewhat the character of the tidings thus given. + + +DWELLINGS. + +Their winter huts, or _o'-chums_, as they termed them, were +invariably of a conical form, made with small poles, and covered +with the bark of the incense cedar (_Libocedrus decurrens_). A +few poles ten or twelve feet long were set in the ground around +an area of about twelve feet in diameter, with their tops +inclined together. The outside was then closely covered with long +strips of the cedar bark, making it perfectly water-tight. An +opening was left on the south side for an entrance, which could +be readily closed with a portable door. An opening was also left +at the top for the escape of the smoke, a fire being kindled in +the center inside. + +[Illustration: _Drawing by Jorgensen_. +INDIAN O'-CHUM. +This style of house, made of cedar poles covered with bark, is +more easily heated than any other form of dwelling known.] + +One of these huts would hold a family of a half-dozen persons, +with all their household property, dogs included; and there is +no other form of a single-room dwelling that can be kept warm +and comfortable in cold weather with so little fire, as this +Indian _o'-chum._ + +Their under-bedding usually consisted of the skins of bears, +deer, antelope or elk, and the top covering was a blanket or robe +made of the skins of small fur-bearing animals, such as rabbits, +hares, wildcats and foxes. The skins were cut in narrow strips, +which were loosely twisted so as to bring the fur entirely around +on the outside, and then woven into a warp of strong twine made +of the fine, tough, fibrous bark of a variety of milkweed +(_Asclepias speciosa_). These fur robes were very warm, and were +also used as wraps when traveling in cold weather. + +During the warm summer season they generally lived outside in +brush arbors, and used their _o'-chums_ as storage places. + + +CLOTHING. + +Their clothing was very simple and scant, before being initiated +into the use of a more ample and complete style of covering while +living at the reservations. The ordinary full complement of dress +for a man (_Nung'-ah_) was simply a breech-clout, or short +hip-skirt made of skins; that for a woman (_O'-hoh_) was a +skirt reaching from the waist to the knees, made of dressed +deerskin finished at the bottom with a slit fringe, and sometimes +decorated with various fancy ornaments. Both men and women +frequently wore moccasins made of dressed deer or elk skin. Young +children generally went entirely nude. + +[Illustration: _Drawing by Jorgensen_. +YOSEMITE MAIDEN IN NATIVE DRESS. +This buckskin costume has now been replaced by the unpicturesque +calico of civilization.] + + +CHARACTERISTICS. + +The Indians of the various tribes in this part of the Sierras +vary somewhat in physical characteristics, but in general are of +medium height, strong, lean and agile, and the men are usually +fine specimens of manhood. They are rather light in color, but +frequently rub their bodies with some kind of oil, which gives +the flesh a much redder and more glossy appearance. The hair is +black and straight, and the eyes are black and deep set. The +beard is sparse, and in former times was not allowed to grow at +all, each hair being pulled out with a rude kind of tweezers. +They are naturally of a gentle and friendly disposition, but +their experience with the white race has made them distant and +uncommunicative to strangers. + +Most of the older Indians still cling to their old customs and +manner of living, and are very slow to learn or talk our +language, but the younger ones are striving to live like the +white people, and seem proud to adopt our style of dress and +manner of cooking. They all speak our language plainly, and some +few of them attend the public schools when living near by, and +acquire very readily the common rudiments of an education. + +Their style of architecture is in a state of transition, like +themselves. Their old _o'-chum_ form of dwelling is now very +seldom seen--a rude building of more roomy and modern design +having taken its place. + +All the able-bodied men are ready and willing to work at any kind +of common labor, when they have an opportunity, and have learned +to want nearly the same amount of pay as a white man for the same +work. + +As a rule, they are trustworthy, and when confidence is placed in +their honesty it is very rarely betrayed. During nearly the past +fifty years, a great many thousands of people have visited the +Yosemite Valley with their own camping outfits, and, during the +day, and often all night, are absent on distant trips of +observation, with no one left in charge of camp, yet there has +never to my knowledge been an instance of anything being stolen +or molested by Indians. There are, however, some dishonest +Indians, who will steal from their own people, and some times, +when a long distance from their own camp, they may steal from the +whites. A few, if they can get whisky, through the aid of some +white person, will become drunk and fight among themselves, and +occasionally one of them may be killed; but, as a rule, they are +peaceful and orderly, and hold sacred the promise made to the +Indian Commissioners by the old tribal chiefs, when released from +confinement on the reservations, that they would forever keep the +peace, and never again make war against the white people. + + + + +Chapter Four. + +SOURCES OF FOOD SUPPLY. + + +The food supply of the Sierra Indians was extensive and abundant, +consisting of the flesh of deer, antelope, elk and mustang +horses, together with fish, water-fowls, birds, acorns, berries, +pine nuts, esculent herbage and the tuberous roots of certain +plants, all of which were easily obtained, even with their simple +and limited means of securing them. Mushrooms, fungi, +grasshoppers, worms and the larvae of ants and other insects, +were also eaten, and some of these articles were considered great +delicacies. + + +HUNTING. + +Their main effective weapons for hunting large game were their +bows and obsidian-pointed arrows. Their manner of hunting was +either by the stealthy still hunt, or a general turn-out, +surrounding a large area of favorable country and driving to a +common center, where at close range the hunters could sometimes +make an extensive slaughter. + +[Illustration: _Drawing by Jorgensen._ +A YOSEMITE HUNTER. +He wears a false deer's head, to deceive the game.] + +When on the still hunt for deer in the brushy, sparsely timbered +foothills of the Sierra Range of mountains, or higher up in the +extensive forests, some of the hunters wore for a headgear a +false deer's head, by which deceptive device they were enabled to +get to a closer and more effective range with their bows and +arrows. This head-dress was made of the whole skin of a doe's +head, with a part of the neck, the head part stuffed with light +material, the eyeholes filled in with the green feathered scalp +of a duck's head, and the top furnished with light wooden horns, +the branching stems of the manzanita (_Arctostaphylos_) being +generally used for this purpose. The neck part was made to fit on +the hunter's head and fasten with strings tied under the chin. +This unique style of headgear was used by some Indian hunters for +many years after they had guns to hunt with. + +[Illustration: _Drawing by Jorgensen_ +INDIAN SWEAT HOUSE. +Used by the Yosemite hunters before starting after game.] + +The high ranges of the mountains, as already stated, were +considered common hunting ground by the different tribes. The +deer, many of them, were in some degree migratory in their +habits, being driven from the higher ranges to the foothills by +the deep winter snows, and in the spring following close to the +melting, receding snow, back again to their favorite summer +haunts. + +Late in the summer, or early in the fall, just before holding +some of their grand social or sacred festivals, the Indian +hunters would make preparation for a big hunt in the mountains, +to get a good supply of venison for the feast. One of the first +absolute prerequisites was to go through a thorough course of +sweating and personal cleansing. This was done by resorting to +their sweat houses, which were similar in construction to the +_o'-chums_, except that the top was rounded and the whole +structure was covered thickly with mud and earth to exclude the +air. These houses were heated with hot stones and coals of fire, +and the hunters would then crawl into them and remain until in a +profuse perspiration, when they would come out and plunge into +cold water for a wash-off. This was repeated until they thought +themselves sufficiently free from all bodily odor so that the +deer could not detect their approach by scent, and flee for +safety. + +After this purification they kept themselves strictly as +celibates until the hunt was over, though their women went along +to help carry the outfit, keep camp, cook, search for berries and +pine nuts, and assist in bringing to camp and taking care of the +deer as killed, and in "packing" the meat out to the place of +rendezvous appointed for the grand ceremonies and feast. + +Their usual manner of cooking fresh meat was by broiling on hot +coals, or roasting before the fire or in the embers. Sometimes, +however, they made a cavity in the ground, in which they built a +fire, which was afterwards cleared away and the cavity lined with +very hot stones, on which they placed the meat wrapped in green +herbage, and covered it with other hot rocks and earth, to remain +until suitably cooked. + +When they had a surplus of fresh meat they cut it in strips and +hung it in the sun-shine to dry. The dried meat was generally +cooked by roasting in hot embers, and then beaten to soften it +before being eaten. + +A young hunter never ate any of the first deer he killed, as he +believed that if he did so he would never succeed in killing +another. + + +FISHING. + +They had various methods of catching fish--with hook and line, +with a spear, by weir-traps in the stream, and by saturating the +water with the juice of the soap-root plant (_Chlorogalum +pomeridianum_). Before they could obtain fishhooks of modern +make, they made them of bone. Their lines were made of the tough, +fibrous, silken bark of the variety of milkweed or silkweed, +already mentioned. Their spears were small poles pointed with a +single tine of bone, which was so arranged that it became +detached by the struggles of the fish, and was then held by a +string fastened near its center, which turned it crosswise of the +wound and made it act as an effective barb. + +Their weir-traps were put in the rapids, and constructed by +building wing dams diagonally down to the middle of the stream +until the two ends came near together, and in this narrow outlet +was placed a sort of wicker basket trap, made of long willow +sprouts loosely woven together and closed at the pointed lower +end, which was elevated above the surface of the water below the +dam. The fish, in going down stream, ran into this trap, and soon +found themselves at the lower end and out of the water. + +The soap-root was used at a low stage of water, late in summer. +They dug several bushels of the bulbous roots and went to a +suitable place on the bank, where the roots were pounded into a +pulp, and mixed with soil and water. This mixture, by the +handful, was then rubbed on rocks out in the stream, which roiled +the water and also made it somewhat foamy. The fish were soon +affected by it, became stupid with a sort of strangulation, and +rose to the surface, where they were easily captured by the +Indians with their scoop baskets. In a stream the size of the +South Fork of the Merced River at Wawona, by this one operation +every fish in it for a distance of three miles would be taken in +a few hours. + +The fish were generally cooked by roasting on hot coals from +burned oak wood or bark. + + +ACORNS AS FOOD. + +Acorns were their main staple article of breadstuff, and they are +still used by the present generation whenever they can be +obtained. + +[Illustration: _Drawing by Mrs. Jorgensen._ +CHUCK'-AH. +Storehouse for nuts and acorns, thatched with pine branches, +points downward, to keep out mice and squirrels.] + +They are gathered in the fall when ripe and are preserved for +future use in the old style Indian _cache_ or storehouse. This +consists of a structure which they call a _chuck'-ah_, which is +a large basket-shaped receptacle made of long willow sprouts +closely woven together. It is usually about six feet high and +three feet in diameter. It is set upon stout posts about three +feet high and supported in position by four longer posts on the +outside, reaching to the top, and there bound firmly to keep them +from spreading. The outside of the basket is thatched with small +pine branches, points downward, to shed the rain and snow, and to +protect the contents from the depredations of squirrels and +woodpeckers. When filled, the top also is securely covered with +bark, as a protection from the winter storms. When the acorns are +wanted for use, a small hole is made at the bottom of the +_chuck'-ah_, and they are taken out from time to time as +required. + +The acorns from the black or Kellogg's oak (_Quercus +Californica_) are considered much the best and most nutritious +by the Indians. This is the oak which is so beautiful and +abundant in the Yosemite Valley. + +These acorns are quite bitter, and are not eaten in their natural +condition, as most fruit and nuts are eaten, but have to be quite +elaborately prepared and cooked to make them palatable. First, +the hull is cracked and removed, and the kernel pounded or ground +into a fine meal. In the Yosemite Valley and at other Indian +camps in the mountains, this is done by grinding with their stone +pestles or _metats (may-tat's)_ in the _ho'yas_ or mortars, +worn by long usage in large flat-top granite rocks, one of which +is near every Indian camp. Lower down in the foothills, where +there are no suitable large rocks for these permanent mortars, +the Indians used single portable stone mortars for this purpose. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Fiske_. +HO'-YAS AND ME-TATS'. +Rude mortars and pestles for grinding acorn meal. The holes have +been worn in the granite by constant use.] + +After the acorns are ground to a fine meal, the next process is +to take out the bitter tannin principle. This is done in the +following manner: They make large shallow basins in clean washed +sand, in the center of which are laid a few flat, fan-like ends +of fir branches. A fire is then made near by, and small stones +of four or five pounds in weight are heated, with which they warm +water in some of their large cooking baskets, and mix the acorn +meal with it to the consistency of thin gruel. This mixture is +poured into the sand basins, and as the water leaches out into +the sand it takes with it the bitter quality--the warm water +being renewed until all the bitter taste is washed out from the +meal sediment, or dough. + +This is then taken, and, after being cleansed from the adhering +sand, is put into cooking baskets, thinned down with hot water to +the desired condition, and cooked by means of hot stones which +are held in it with two sticks for tongs. The mush, while +cooking, is stirred with a peculiar stirring stick, made of a +tough oak sprout, doubled so as to form a round, open loop at one +end, which is used in lifting out any loose stones. When the +dough is well cooked, it is either left _en masse_ in the basket +or scooped out in rolls and put into cold water to cool and +warden before being eaten. Sometimes the thick paste is made into +cakes and baked on hot rocks. One of these cakes, when rolled in +paper, will in a short time saturate it with oil. This acorn +food is probably more nutritious than any of the cereals. + + +INDIAN DOGS. + +The Indian dogs, of which every family had several, are as fond +of the acorn food as their owners. These dogs are made useful in +treeing wild-cats, California lions and gray squirrels, and are +very expert in catching ground squirrels by intercepting them +when away from their burrows, and when the Indians drown them out +in the early spring by turning water from the flooded streams +into their holes. + +As far as can be learned, dogs were about the only domestic +animals which the Yosemites, and other adjacent tribes of +Indians, kept for use before the country was settled by the white +people. + + +NUTS AND BERRIES. + +Pine nuts were another important article of food, and were much +prized by the Indians. They are very palatable and nutritious, +and are also greatly relished by white people whenever they can +be obtained. The seeds of the Digger or nut pine (_Pinus +Sabiniana_) were the ones most used on the western side of the +Sierras, although the seeds of the sugar pine (_P. Lambertiana_) +were also sometimes eaten. On account of their soft shell, nuts +from the pinon pine (_P. monophylla_), which grows principally on +the eastern side of the mountains, were considered superior to +either of the other kinds, and were an important article of +barter with the tribes of that region. All of these trees are +very prolific, and their crop of nuts in fruitful years has been +estimated to be even greater than the enormous wheat crop of +California, although of course but a very small portion of it is +ever gathered. Many other kinds of nuts and seeds were also +eaten. + +The principal berries used by the Indians of Yosemite and tribes +lower down in the foothills were those of the manzanita +(_Arctostaphylos glauca_). They are about the size of +huckleberries, of a light brown color, and when ripe have the +flavor of dried apples. They are used for eating, and also to +make a kind of cider for drinking, and for mixing with some food +preparations. Manzanita is the Spanish for "little apple," and +this shrub, with its rich red bark and pale green foliage, is +perhaps the most beautiful and most widely distributed in +California. Strawberries, black raspberries, elderberries, wild +cherries and the fruit of the Sierra plum (_Prunus subcordata_) +are also used by the Indians, but wild edible berries are not as +plentiful in California as they are in the Atlantic States. + + +GRASSHOPPERS AND WORMS. + +In addition to the staple articles of food already mentioned, +many other things were eaten when they could be obtained. These +included grasshoppers, certain kinds of large tree worms, the +white fungi which grows upon the oak, mushrooms, and the larvae +and pupae of ants and other insects. The pupae of a certain kind +of fly which breeds extensively on the shores of Mono Lake, about +forty miles from Yosemite, was an important article of commerce +across the mountains, and was made into a kind of paste called +_ka-cha'-vee_, which is still much relished by the Indians, and +is a prominent dish at their feasts. + +The manner of catching grasshoppers was to dig a large hole, +somewhat in the shape of a fly trap, with the bottom larger +than the opening at the top, so that the insects could not +readily get out of it. This hole was dug in the center of a +meadow, which was then surrounded by Indians armed with small +boughs, who beat the grasshoppers towards a common center and +drove them into the trap. A fire was then kindled on top of them, +and after they had been well roasted they were gathered up and +stored for future use. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Fiske_. +A WOOD GATHERER. +As in all Indian tribes, the women do most of the work.] + +Other articles of food were various kinds of roots, grasses and +herbage, some of which were cooked, while others were eaten in +their natural condition. The lupine (_Lupinus bicolor_ and other +species), whose brilliant flowers are such a beautiful feature of +all the mountain meadows in the spring and summer, was a favorite +plant for making what white people would call "greens," and when +eaten was frequently moistened with some of the manzanita cider +already referred to. Among the roots used for food were those of +the wild caraway (_Carum_), wild hyacinth (_Brodioea_), sorrel +(_Oxalis_), and camass (_Camassia esculenta_). + + + + +Chapter Five + +RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES AND BELIEFS. + + +The Indians of this region, in common with most, if not all, of +the North American aborigines, were of a highly religious +temperament, most devout in their beliefs and observances, and +easily wrought upon by the priests or medicine men of their +tribes. Elaborate ceremonies were carried out, in which all of +the details were highly symbolical, and some of their curious and +picturesque superstitions were responsible for acts of cruelty +and vengeance, which in many cases were foreign to their natural +disposition. + + +DANCES. + +Dancing was an important part of all religious observances, and +was practiced purely as a ceremonial, and never for pleasure or +recreation. Both men and women took part, the men executing a +peculiar shuffling step which involved a great deal of stamping +upon the ground with their bare feet, and the women performing a +curious sideways, swaying motion. Some of the dancers carried +wands or arrows, and indulged in wild gesticulations. They +usually circled slowly around a fire, and danced to the point of +exhaustion, when others would immediately take their places. The +ceremony was accompanied by the beating of rude drums, and by a +monotonous chant, which was joined in by all the dancers. + +The great occasions for dancing were before going to war, and +when cremating the bodies of their dead. The war dance was +probably the most elaborate in costume and other details, and of +recent years the Indians have sometimes given public exhibitions +of what purported to be war dances, but these performances, like +everything else which they do from purely mercenary motives, are +very poor imitations of the originals, and it is doubtful if they +have ever allowed a genuine war dance to be witnessed by white +men. + + +FESTIVALS. + +The various tribes in the vicinity of Yosemite Valley are +accustomed to hold a great meeting or festival once a year, each +tribe taking its turn as hosts, and the others sometimes coming +from considerable distances. At these meetings there are dances +and other ceremonials, and also a grand feast, for which +extensive preparations are made. Another feature of the occasion +is the presentation of gifts to the visiting tribes, consisting +of money, blankets, clothing, baskets, bead-work, or other +valuable articles. These presents, or their equivalent, no matter +how small they may be, are always returned to the givers at the +next annual festival, together with additional gifts, which, in +turn, must be given back the following year, and so on. + +At these gatherings an Indian is appointed to secure and keep on +hand a good supply of wood for the camp fires, and every day he +spreads a blanket on the ground and sits on it, and the other +Indians throw money, clothing, or other contributions, into the +blanket, to pay him and his assistants for their services. At +other times this man acts as a messenger or news carrier--first +spreading his blanket to collect his fees, and then starting off +on his mission. + + +MARRIAGE. + +Many of the Indians in Mariposa and adjoining counties were +polygamists, having two or three, and sometimes more, wives. Some +of the chiefs and head men would have wives from several of the +adjacent tribes, which had a tendency to establish permanent +friendly relations among them. + +Every man who took a young woman for his wife had to buy her. +Young women were considered by their parents as personal +chattels, subject to sale to the highest suitable bidder, and the +payment of the price constituted the main part of the marriage +ceremony. The wife was then the personal property of the husband, +which he might sell or gamble away if he wished; but such +instances were said to be very rare. In case negotiations for a +marriage fell through, the preliminary payments were scrupulously +returned to the rejected suitor by the parents. + +Even a widow, independent of control in the matter of marriage, +if she consented to become a man's wife, received some +compensation herself from her intended husband. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Dore_. +A YOUNG YOSEMITE. +The babies are tied to their baskets to make them straight, and +keep them out of mischief.] + +It is said that in their marital relations they were as a rule +strictly faithful to each other. If the woman was found to be +guilty of unfaithfulness to her husband, the penalty was death. +Such a thing as a man whipping or beating his wife was never +known. Whipping under any circumstances was considered a more +humiliating and disgraceful punishment than death. + +Even in the management of children, whipping was never resorted +to as punishment for disobedience. In fact, children were always +treated in such a kind, patient, loving manner, that disobedience +was a fault rarely known. The pre-natal maternal influence, and +subsequent treatment after birth, were such that they were +naturally patient and readily submissive to kind parental +control. + +In recent years, under the influence and examples often seen in +what is called civilized life, Indian husbands have been known to +beat their wives, and mothers to whip their children. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Boysen_. +LENA AND VIRGIL. +The canopy of the baby basket is called Cho-ko'-ni and the +Royal Arches, from their resemblance to it, have also received +this name from the Indians.] + + +MEDICINE MEN. + +At the time of the settlement of California by the whites, every +Indian tribe had its professional doctors or medicine men, who +also acted as religious leaders. They were the confidential +counselors of the chiefs and head-men of the tribes, and had +great influence and control over the people. They claimed to be +spiritual mediums, and to have communication with the departed +spirits of some of their old and most revered chieftains and dear +friends, now in a much more happy condition than when here in +earthly life. They were thought to be endowed with supernatural +powers, not only in curing all diseases (except those due to old +age), but also in making a well person sick at their pleasure, +even at a distance; but when their sorcery failed to work on +their white enemies and exterminate them, they lost the +confidence of their followers to a large extent. + +With the invasion of the white settlers came forced changes in +their old customs and manner of living, and a new variety of +epidemic and other diseases. When a doctor failed to cure these +diseases, and several deaths occurred in quick succession in a +camp, they believed the doctor was under the control of some evil +spirit, and killed him. + +After the Indians were given their freedom from the reservations +in 1855, the old ones, subdued and broken-hearted, sickened and +died very fast, and most of the men doctors were killed off in a +few years. There are none known who now attempt to act in that +capacity. + +There are still some women doctors who continue to practice the +magic art, but as there are now but very few Indians, there is +not so much sickness, and very few deaths in a year, so that the +doctors very rarely forfeit their lives by many of their patients +dying in quick succession. + +Their most common mode of treatment in cases of sickness was to +scarify the painful locality with the sharp edge of a piece of +obsidian, and suck out the blood with the mouth. In cases of +headache, the forehead was operated on; in a case of colic the +abdomen was treated in the same way, as were also all painful +swellings on any part of the body. + +The grand object of the doctor was to make the patient and +family firmly believe that his course of treatment was removing +the cause of the sickness. To aid in strengthening this belief, +after diagnosing the case, and before commencing operations, he +would quietly retire for a short time, ostensibly to get under +the influence of the divine healing spirit, but in reality to +fill his mouth with several small articles, such as bits of wood +or stone; he was then ready to commence treatment. After sucking +and spitting pure blood a few times, he began to spit out with +the blood, one after another, the things he had in his mouth, at +the sight of which all the attendants would join in a chorus of +grunts of astonishment, and the doctor would pretend to be very +much nauseated. In most ordinary cases two or three treatments +effected a cure. + +The doctors also made use of certain rare medicinal plants in +treating some diseases. The Indian women have great faith in +charms made of the pungent roots of some rare plants from the +high mountain ranges, which they wear on strings around their +necks, or on a string of beads, to protect them from sickness. + +In cases of malignant sores or ulcers on any part of the body, +the doctors treated them by applying dirt or earth, and in warm +weather would excavate a place in the ground and put the patient +in it, either in a sitting or recumbent position, as the nature +of the case required, and cover the affected part with earth for +several hours, daily. Sometimes, by this mode of treatment, +wonderful cures were made. + +In all cases, if a doctor failed to cure a disease, and the +patient died, he was obliged to refund to the relatives any fee +which he had received for his services. + + +DISPOSING OF THE DEAD. + +In the early days of the settlement of California, it seemed to +be the universal custom of the Indians along the foothills of the +Sierra Nevada range of mountains to burn the bodies of their +dead. + +A suitable pile of readily combustible wood was prepared. The +body was taken charge of by persons chosen to perform the last +sacred rites, and firmly bound in skins or blankets, and then +placed upon the funeral pyre, with all the personal effects of +the deceased, together with numerous votive offerings from +friends and relatives. The chief mourners of the occasion seemed +to take but little active part in the ceremonies. When all was +ready, one of the assistants would light the fire, and the +terrible, wailing, mournful cry would commence, and the +professional chanters, with peculiar sidling movements and +frantic gestures, would circle round and round about the burning +pile. Occasionally, on arriving at the northwest corner of the +pile, they would stop, and, pointing to the West, would end a +crying refrain by exclaiming "_Him-i-la'-ha!_" When these +became exhausted, others would step in and take their places, and +thus keep up the mournful ceremony until the whole pile was +consumed. + +After the pile had cooled, the charred bones and ashes were +gathered up, a few pieces of bone selected, and the remainder +buried. Of the pieces retained, some would be sent to distant +relatives, and the others pounded to a fine powder, then mixed +with pine pitch and plastered on the faces of the nearest female +relatives as a badge of mourning, to be kept there until it +naturally wore off. Every Indian camp used to have some of these +hideous looking old women in it in the "early days." + +One principal reason for burning the bodies of the dead was the +belief that there is an evil spirit, waiting and watching for the +animating spirit or soul to leave the body, that he may get it to +take to his own world of darkness and misery. By burning the +perishable body they thought that the immortal soul would be more +quickly released and set free to speed to the happy spirit world +in the _El-o'-win_, or far distant West, while with their loud, +wailing cries the evil spirit was kept away. + +The young women take great care of their long, shiny, black hair, +of which they all feel very proud, as adding much to their +personal beauty, and they seldom have it cut before marriage. But +upon the death of a husband the wife has her hair all cut off and +burned with his body, so that he may still have it in his future +spirit home, to love and caress as a memento of his living +earth-wife. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Boysen_. +OLD KALAPINE. +One of the oldest Indians in the Valley. The short hair is a +badge of widowhood.] + +These Indians believe that everything on earth, both natural and +artificial, is endowed with an immortal spirit, which is +indestructible, and that whatever personal property or precious +gifts are burned, either with the body or in later years for the +departed friend's benefit, will be received and made use of in +the spirit world. In recent years the Yosemites and other +remnants of tribes closely associated with them, have adopted the +custom of the white people, and bury their dead. The fine, +expensive blankets, and most beautifully worked baskets, which +have been kept sacredly in hiding for many years, to be buried +with the owner, are now cut into small fragments before being +deposited in the ground, for fear some white person will +desecrate the grave by digging them up and carrying them away. + +There are no people in the world who more reverence for their +dead, or hold memory more sacred, than these so-called "Digger" +Indians. After being released from the reservations they kept +themselves in abject poverty for many sacrificing their best +blankets, baskets and clothing in the devouring flames of a fire +kindled for that purpose, when holding their annual mourning +festivals in memory of their dead friends. + + +RELIGIOUS BELIEFS. + +The old Indians are all very reticent regarding their religious +beliefs. They hold them too sacred to be exposed to possible +ridicule, and it is therefore very difficult to get information +from them by direct questions. + +They seem, however, to have a vague, indistinct belief or +tradition that their original ancestors, in the long forgotten +past, dwelt in a better and much more desirable country than +this, in the _El-o'-win_, or distant West, and that by some +misfortune or great calamity they were separated from that nappy +land, and became wanderers in this part of the world. They also +believe that the spirits of all good Indians will be permitted, +after death, to go back to that happy country of their ancestors' +origin; but that the spirits of bad Indians have to serve another +earth life in the form of a grizzly bear, as a punishment for +their former crimes. Hence, no Indians ever eat bear meat if +they know it. + +All the old Indians are spiritualists, and very superstitious in +their religious beliefs. One special tenet is that if one of +their relatives or friends has been murdered, he will not receive +them on terms of friendship in the spirit world unless they +revenge his death, by either killing the murderer or some one of +the same blood. This belief sometimes results in an entirely +innocent person being put to death. + +They all have a great fear of evil spirits, which they believe +have the power to do them much harm and defeat their +undertakings. They also have a fairly distinct idea of a Diety or +Great Spirit, who never does them any harm, and whose home is in +the happy land of their ancestors in the West. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Boysen_. +YOSEMITE BASKETRY. +The Ellen Boysen collection of baskets and bead work.] + + + + +Chapter Six + +NATIVE INDUSTRIES. + + +The Yosemites and other kindred or adjacent tribes have been +branded as "Diggers," and are generally thought to be the lowest +class of Indians in America, but in some lines of artistic work +they excelled all other tribes. For example, their basketry work, +for domestic and sacred purposes, and their bows and arrows, were +of very superior workmanship and fine finish. + + +BASKETRY AND BEAD WORK. + +Many years ago the chief industry of the Indian women, aside from +their other domestic duties, was the making of baskets. They made +a great variety of shapes and sizes for their common use, and +also many of a more artistic design and finer finish for the +sacred purpose of being burned or buried with their bodies, or +that of some relative or dear friend, after death. The baskets +devoted to this special purpose are the finest made, but are very +seldom seen by any white person, and are not for sale at any +price. This finest style of work seems to have been made a +specialty by certain of the most artistic workers in each tribe. + +[Illustration: MRS. JORGENSEN'S COLLECTION OF BASKETS. +For the mythical origin of basket-making in the Yosemite see +"Legend of To-tau-kon-nu'-la and Tis-sa'-ack."] + +At the present time, in their more modern style of living, they +do not require so many baskets, and the industry of making them +is fast on the decline. Some of the old women, however, still +continue to make such as are required for their own use, and a +few others for sale. + +Most of the ornamental figures and designs worked into the finest +basketry are symbolical in character, and of so ancient an origin +that Indians of the present day do not know what many of them are +intended to represent. They have simply been copied from time +immemorial, with the idea that they were necessary for the +complete finish and beauty of the article made. + +In recent years they sometimes make use of more modern styles of +ornamentation, which they see in print. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Fiske_. +INDIAN BEAD WORK. +Mrs. George Fiske's collection of Yosemite and Pai-ute' bead +work.] + +Many of the young women are now giving their attention to making +fancy bead work, in the form of ornamental belts and hat-bands, +but this is an industry of very modern origin. Some of them are +employed by white people to do laundry and other work, and any +labor of this kind pays them better than making baskets for sale. +Forty years ago a finely made basket could have been bought for +less than ten dollars. At present, if the time spent in getting +and preparing the necessary materials, and in working them into +the basket, were paid for at the same rate per day that a young +woman receives for doing washing in the hotel laundry, or for +private families, it would amount to over one hundred dollars. + +Most of the baskets made for domestic use are so closely woven +that they are practically water-tight, and are used for cooking +and similar purposes. Over on the eastern side of the Sierra +Nevada Mountains, near the dry, desert country, the Indians make +some of their baskets in the form of jugs of various sizes. These +are smeared over with a pitch composition, which renders them +perfectly water-tight, and they are used for carrying water when +traveling over those desolate, sandy wastes. + + +BOWS AND ARROWS. + +The Indian men showed no less ingenuity artistic skill in their +special lines of work than the women, especially in manufacture +of their bows and arrows, in the making of fish lines and coarser +twine out of the soft, flexible bark of the milkweed (_Asclepias +speciosa_), and in making other useful implements and utensils +with the very limited means at their disposal. + +Their bows were made of a branch of the incense cedar +(_Libocedrus decurrens_), or of the California nutmeg (_Tumion +Californicum [Torreya])_, made flat on the outer side, and +rounded smooth on the inner or concave side when the bow is +strung for use. The flat, outer side was covered with sinew, +usually that from the leg of a deer, steeped in hot water until +it became soft and glutinous, and then laid evenly and smoothly +over the wood, and so shaped at the ends as to hold the string in +place. When thoroughly dry the sinew contracted, so that the bow +when not strung was concave on the outer side. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Boysen._ +A BASKET MAKER. +She is weaving a burden basket. The one to the left is for +cooking, and a baby basket stands against the tent.] + +When not in use the bow was always left unstrung. To string it +for use, it was necessary in cold weather to warm it, thus making +it more elastic and easily bent. The best strings were also +made of sinew, or of pax-wax cartilage, for their finest bows. + +The arrows were made of reeds and various kinds of wood, +including the syringa (_Philadelphus Lewisii_) and a small shrub +or tree which the Indians called _Le-ham'-i-tee,_ or +arrow-wood, and which grew quite plentifully in what is now known +as Indian Canyon, near the Yosemite Falls. + +The finest arrows were furnished with points made of obsidian, or +volcanic glass, which was obtained in the vicinity of Mono Lake +on the eastern side of the Sierras. It required great care and +delicate skill to work this brittle material into the fine sharp +points, and the making of them seemed to be a special business or +trade with some of the old men. Arrows furnished with these +points were only used in hunting large game, or in hostile combat +with enemies; for common use, in hunting small game, the hard +wooden arrow was merely sharpened to a point. + +The butt, or end used on the string, was furnished with three or +four short strips of feathers taken from a hawk's wing, and +fastened on lengthwise. These strips of feathers are supposed to +aid in the more accurate flight of the arrow when shot from the +bow. + +When out on a hunt the Indian carried his bow strung ready for +use, and his bundle of assorted arrows in a quiver made of the +skin of a small fox, wild-cat or fisher, hung conveniently over +his shoulder. + +These primitive weapons, which were in universal use by the +Yosemite Indians fifty years ago, are now never seen except in +some collection of Indian relics and curios. + +Other articles manufactured by these tribes were stone hammers, +and also others made from the points of deer horns mounted on +wooden handles, which they used in delicately chipping the +brittle obsidian in forming arrowheads. Rude musical instruments, +principally drums and flageolets, were also made. + + + + +Chapter Seven. + +MYTHS AND LEGENDS. + + +The Indians of the Yosemite Valley and vicinity have a great fund +of mythological lore, which has been handed down verbally from +generation to generation for hundreds of years, but they are very +reluctant to speak of these legends to white people, and it is +extremely difficult to get reliable information on the subject. +Moreover, the Indians most familiar with them have not a +sufficient knowledge of the English language to be able to +express their ideas clearly. + +Many Yosemite legends have been published at different times and +in various forms, and it is probable that most of them have had +at least a foundation in real Indian myths, but many are +obviously fanciful in some particulars, and it is impossible to +tell how much is of Indian origin and how much is due to poetic +embellishment. When asked about some of these legends, many years +ago, one of the old Yosemite Indians remarked contemptuously, +"White man too much lie." + +On the other hand, red men as well as white men are sometimes +given to romancing, and I have known of cases where "legends" +would be manufactured on the spur of the moment by some young +Indian to satisfy an importunate and credulous questioner, to the +keen but suppressed amusement of other Indians present. + +It will therefore be seen that this subject is surrounded with +some difficulty, and it must not be understood that the legends +here given are vouched for as of wholly Indian origin. Some of +them, notably those of the Tul-tok'-a-na and the second legend +of Tis-sa'-ack, have been accepted by eminent ethnologists, and +are believed to be purely aboriginal, while others have doubtless +been somewhat idealized in translation and in the course of +numerous repetitions. + +The legend of To-tau-kon-nu'-la and Tis-sa'-ack is made up of +fragments of mythological lore obtained from a number of old +Indians at various times during the past fifty years. It varies +somewhat from other legends which have been published regarding +these same characters, but it is well known that the Indians +living in Yosemite in recent years are of mixed tribal origin and +do not all agree as to the traditional history of the region, nor +the names of the prominent scenic features, nor even of the +Valley itself. And this largely accounts for the fact that some +of the legends do not harmonize with each other in details or in +sentiment. All of them, however, are picturesque, and they +certainly give an added interest to the natural beauties and +wonders with which they are associated. + + +LEGEND OF TO-TAU-KON-NU'-LA AND TIS-SA'-ACK. + +Innumerable moons and snows have passed since the Great Spirit +guided a little band of his favorite children into the beautiful +vale of Ah-wah'-nee [Yosemite Valley], and bid them stop and +rest from their long and weary wanderings, which had lasted ever +since they had been separated by the great waters from the happy +land of their forefathers in the far distant _El-o'-win_ +(West). + +Here they found food in abundance for all. The rivers gave them +plenty of _la-pe'-si_ (trout). They found in the meadows sweet +_ha'-ker_ (clover), and sour _yu-yu-yu-mah_ (oxalis) for spring +medicine, and sweet _toon'-gy_ and other edible roots in +abundance. The trees and bushes yielded acorns, pine nuts, fruits +and berries. In the forests were herds of _he'-ker_ (deer) and +other animals, which gave meat for food and skins for clothing +and beds. And here they lived and multiplied, and, as instructed +by their medicine men, worshipped the Great Spirit which gave +them life, and the sun which warmed and made them happy. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Boysen_. +MARY. +Daughter of Captain John, one of the last Chiefs of the +Yosemites.] + +They also kept in memory the happy land of their forefathers. The +story was told by the old people to the young, and they again +told it to their children from generation to generation, and they +all believed that after death their spirits would return to dwell +forever in that distant country. + +They prospered and built other towns outside of Ah-wah'-nee, +and became a great nation. They learned wisdom by experience and +by observing how the Great Spirit taught the animals and insects +to live, and they believed that their children could absorb the +cunning of the wild creatures. And so the young son of their +chieftain was made to sleep in the skins of the beaver and +coyote, that he might grow wise in building, and keen of scent in +following game. On some days he was fed with _la-pe'-si_ that +he might become a good swimmer, and on other days the eggs of the +great _to-tau'-kon_ (crane) were his food, that he might grow +tall and keen of sight, and have a clear, ringing voice. He was +also fed on the flesh of the _he'-ker_ that he might be fleet +of foot, and on that of the great _yo-sem'-i-te_ (grizzly bear) +to make him powerful in combat. + +And the little boy grew up and became a great and wise chieftain, +and he was also a rain wizard, and brought timely rains for the +crops. + +As was the custom in giving names to all Indians, his name was +changed from time to time, as his character developed, until he +was called Choo'-too-se-ka', meaning the Supreme Good. His +grand _o-chum_ (house) was built at the base of the great rock +called To-tau-kon-nu'-la [El Capitan], because the great +_to-tau'-kons_ made their nests and raised their young in a +meadow at its summit, and their loud ringing cries resounded over +the whole Valley. + +As the moons and snows passed, this great rock and all the great +rocky walls around the Valley grew in height, and the hills +became high mountains. + +After a time Choo'-too-se-ka' built himself a great palace +_o'-chum_ on the summit of the rock To-tau-kon-nu'-la, and +had his great chair of state a little west of his palace, where +on all festival occasions he could overlook and talk to the great +multitude below; and the remains of this chair are still to be +seen. + +Choo'-too-se-ka' was then named To-tau-kon-nu'-la, because +he had built his _o'-chum_ on the summit of the great rock and +taken the place of the _to-tau'-kons_. He had no wife, but all +the women served him in his domestic needs, as he was their great +chief, and his wishes were paramount. The many valuable donations +which he received from his people at the great annual festivals +made him wealthy beyond all personal wants, and he gave freely to +the needy. + +One day, while standing on the top of the great dome [Sentinel +Dome] above the south wall of the Valley, watching the great +herds of deer, he saw some strange people approaching, bearing +heavy burdens. They were fairer of skin, and their clothing was +different from that of his people, and when they drew near he +asked them who they were and whence they came. + +And a woman replied, "I am Tis-sa'-ack, and these are some of +my people. We come from _cat'-tan chu'-much_ (far South). I +have heard of your great wisdom and goodness, and have come to +see you and your people. We bring you presents of many fine +baskets, and beads of many colors, as tokens of our friendship. +When we have rested and seen your people and beautiful valley we +will return to our home." + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Foley_ +HALF DOME (TIS-SA'-ACK). 5,000 Feet. +Named for a woman in Indian mythology who was turned to stone for +quarreling with her husband. See "Legend of Tis-sa'-ack."] + +To-tau-kon-nu'-la was much pleased with his fair visitor, and +built a large _o'-chum_ for her and her companions on the +summit of the great dome at the east end of the Valley [Half +Dome], and this dome still retains her name. + +And she tarried there and taught the women of Ah-wah'-nee how +to make the beautiful baskets which they still make at the +present day; and To-tau-kon-nu'-la visited her daily, and +became charmed with her loveliness, and wanted her to remain and +be his wife, but she denied him, saying, "I must return to my +people," and, when he still persisted, she left her _o'-chum_ +in the night and was never seen again. And the love-stricken +chieftain forgot his people, and went in search of her, and they +waited many moons for his return and mourned his long absence, +but they never saw him more. + +This was the beginning of a series of calamities which nearly +destroyed the great tribe of Ah-wah-nee'-chees. First a great +drouth prevailed, and the crops failed, and the streams of water +dried up. The deer went wild and wandered away. Then a dark cloud +of smoke arose in the East and obscured the sun, so that it gave +no heat, and many of the people perished from cold and hunger. +Then the earth shook terribly and groaned with great pain, and +enormous rocks fell from the walls around Ah-wah'-nee. The +great dome called Tis-sa'-ack was burst asunder, and half of it +fell into the Valley. A fire burst out of the earth in the East, +and the _ca'-lah_ (snow) on the sky mountains was changed to +water, which flowed down and formed the Lake Ah-wei'-yah +[Mirror Lake]. And all the streams were filled to overflowing, +and still the waters rose, and there was a great flood, so that a +large part of the Valley became a lake, and many persons were +drowned. + +After a time the Great Spirit took pity on his children, and the +dark cloud of smoke disappeared, the sun warmed the Valley again +into new life, and the few people who were left had plenty of +food once more. + +Many moons afterwards there appeared on the face of the great +rock To-tau-kon-nu'-la the figure of a man in a flowing robe, +and with one hand extended toward the West, in which direction he +appears to be traveling. This figure was interpreted to be the +picture of the great lost Chieftain, indicating that he had gone +to the "happy hunting grounds" of his ancestors, and it is looked +upon with great veneration and awe by the few Indians still +living in Yosemite. At about the same time the face of the +beautiful Tis-sa'-ack appeared on the great flat side of the +dome which bears her name, and the Indians recognized her by the +way in which her dark hair was cut straight across her forehead +and fell down at the sides, which was then considered among the +Yosemites as the acme of feminine beauty, and is so regarded to +this day. + + +ANOTHER LEGEND OF TIS-SA'-ACK. + +Tis-sa'-ack and her husband traveled from a far-off country, +and entered the Valley footsore and weary. She walked ahead, +carrying a great conical burden-basket, which was supported by a +band across her forehead, and was filled with many things. He +followed after, carrying a rude staff in his hand and a roll of +woven skin blankets over his shoulder. They had come across the +mountains and were very thirsty, and they hurried to reach the +Valley, where they knew there was water. The woman was still far +in advance when she reached the Lake Ah-wei'-yah [Mirror Lake], +and she dipped up the water in her basket and drank long and +deep. She was so thirsty that she even drank up all the water in +the lake and drained it dry before her husband arrived. And +because the lake was dry there came a terrible drouth in the +Valley, and the soil was dried up and nothing grew. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Fiske_ +A BURDEN BEARER. +The women are the principal burden bearers and all loads are +carried in large baskets, supported by a band across the +forehead.] + +And the husband was much displeased because the woman had drunk +up all the water and left none for him, and he became so angry +that he forgot the customs of his people and beat the woman with +his staff. She ran away from him, but he followed her and beat +her yet more. And she wept, and in her anger she turned and +reviled her husband, and threw her basket at him. And while they +were in this attitude, one facing the other, they were turned +into stone for their wickedness, and there they still retain. The +upturned basket lies beside the husband, where the woman threw +it, and the woman's face is tear stained with long dark lines +trailing down. + +Half-Dome is the woman Tis-sa'-ack and North Dome is her +husband, while beside the latter is a smaller dome which is still +called Basket Dome to this day. + + +LEGEND OF THE GRIZZLY BEAR. + +The significance and derivation of the name "Yosemite," as given +by old Tenei'-ya, chief of the tribe, have been explained in +another chapter, but there is also a legendary account of its +origin, which may be of interest. + +Long, long ago, when the remote ancestors of the Yosemite Indians +dwelt peacefully in the valley called Ah-wah'-nee [Yosemite +Valley], one of the stalwart young braves of the tribe went early +one morning to spear some fish in the lake Ah-wei'-yah [Mirror +Lake]. Before reaching his destination he was confronted by a +huge grizzly bear, who appeared from behind one of the enormous +boulders in that vicinity, and savagely disputed his passage. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Foley._ +EL CAPITAN (TO-TAU-KON-NU'-LA), 3,300 Feet. +Indians believe that this great rock grew from a small boulder. +See "Legend of the Tul-tok'-a-na."] + +Being attacked in this unexpected manner, the Indian defended +himself to the best of his ability, using for the purpose the +dead limb of a tree which was near at hand, and, after a long and +furious struggle, in which he was badly wounded, he at length +succeeded in killing the bear. + +His exploit was considered so remarkable by the rest of the tribe +that they called him Yo-sem'-i-te (meaning a full-grown grizzly +bear), in honor of his achievement, and this name was transmitted +to his children, and eventually to the whole tribe. + + +LEGEND OF THE TUL-TOK'-A-NA. + +There were once two little boys living in the Valley of +Ah-wah'-nee, who went down to the river to swim. When they had +finished their bath they went on shore and lay down on a large +boulder to dry themselves in the sun. While lying there they fell +asleep, and slept so soundly that they never woke up again. +Through many moons and many snows they slept, and while they +slept the great rock [El Capitan] on which they lay was slowly +rising, little by little, until it soon lifted them up out of +sight, and their friends searched for them everywhere without +success. Thus they were carried up into the blue sky, until +they scraped their faces against the moon; and still they slept +on. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Fiske_. +NORTH DOME (TO-KO'-YA). 3,725 Feet. +This rock is believed by the Indians to represent Tis-sa'-ack's +husband, turned into stone for beating his wife. The lower dome +to the right is the basket which she threw at him. See "Legend of +Tis-sa'-ack."] + +Then all the animals assembled to bring down the little boys from +the top of the great rock. Each animal sprang up the face of the +rock as far as he could. The mouse could only spring a hand's +breadth, the rat two hands' breadths, the raccoon a little more, +and so on. The grizzly bear made a great leap up the wall, but +fell back like all the others, without reaching the top. Finally +came the lion, who jumped up farther than any of the others, but +even he fell back and could not reach the top. + +Then came the _tul-tok'-a-na,_ the insignificant measuring +worm, who was despised by all the other creatures, and began to +creep up the face of the rock. Step by step, little by little, he +measured his way up until he was soon above the lion's jump, and +still farther and farther, until presently he was out of sight; +and still he crawled up and up, day and night, through many +moons, and at length he reached the top, and took the little boys +and brought them safely down to the ground. And therefore the +rock was named for the measuring worm, and was called +Tu-tok-a-nu'-la. + + +LEGEND OF GROUSE LAKE. + +I will here relate a personal experience which occurred in +September, 1857, while out with a large party of Indians on a +deer hunt in the mountains. + +One day, after a long tramp, I stopped to rest by the side of a +small lake about eight miles from the present site of Wawona, and +I then named it Grouse Lake on account of the great number of +grouse found there. Very soon a party of Indians came along +carrying some deer, and stopped on the opposite side of the lake +to rest and get some water. Soon after they had started again for +their camp I heard a distinct wailing cry, somewhat like the cry +of a puppy when lost, and I thought the Indians must have left +one of their young dogs behind. + +When I joined the Indians in camp that night I inquired of them +about the sound I had heard. They replied that it was not a +dog--that a long time ago an Indian boy had been drowned in the +lake, and that every time any one passed there he always cried +after them, and that no one dared to go in the lake, for he +would catch them by the legs and pull them down and they would, +be drowned. I then concluded that it must have been some unseen +water-fowl that made the cry, and at that time I thought that the +Indians were trying to impose on my credulity, but I am now +convinced that they fully believed the story they told me. + +Po-ho'-no Lake, the headwaters of the Bridal Veil Creek, was +also thought to be haunted by troubled spirits, which affected +the stream clear down into the Yosemite Valley; and the Indians +believed that an evil wind there had been the cause of some fatal +accidents many years ago. The word Po-ho'-no means a puffing +wind, and has also been translated "Evil Wind," on account of the +superstition above referred to. + + +LEGEND OF THE LOST ARROW. + +Tee-hee'-nay was a beautiful Ah-wah'-nee maiden, said to be +the most beautiful of her tribe, and she was beloved by +Kos-su'-kah, a strong and valiant young brave. Valuable +presents had been made to the bride's parents, and they had given +their consent to an early marriage, which was to be celebrated by +a great feast. + +To provide an abundance of venison and other meat for this +banquet, Kos-su'-kah gathered together his young companions and +went into the mountains in search of game. In order that +Tee-hee'-nay might know of his welfare and the success of the +hunt, it was agreed between the lovers that at sunset Kos-su'-kah +should go to the high rock to the east of Cho'-lak [Yosemite +Falls], and should shoot an arrow into the Valley, to which +should be attached a number of grouse feathers corresponding to +the number of deer that had fallen before the skill of the +hunters. + +[Illustration: _Photograph by Fiske_. +BRIDAL VEIL FALL (PO-HO'-NO). 940 Feet. +The-source of this stream is supposed by the Indians to be +haunted by troubled spirits, which affect the water along its +whole course. The word Po-ho'-no means a "puffing wind."] + +At the time appointed Tee-hee'-nay went near the foot of the +great cliff and waited, with her eyes raised to the towering +rocks above, hoping with her keen sight to see the form of her +lover outlined against the sky, but no form could she see, and no +arrow fell into the Valley. As darkness gathered, gloomy +forebodings took possession of her, and she climbed part way up +the canyon called Le-ham'-i-tee [now known as Indian Canyon] +because the arrow-wood grew there, and finally she stood at the +very foot of the rocky wall which rose to dizzy heights above +her, and there she waited through the long night. + +With the first streak of dawn she bounded swiftly up the rough +canyon, for she was fully convinced that some terrible fate had +overtaken the brave Kos-su'-kah, and soon she stood upon the +lofty summit [Yosemite Point], where she found her lover's +footsteps leading towards the edge of the precipice. Drawing +nearer she was startled to find that a portion of the cliff had +given way, and, upon peering over the brink, what was her horror +to discover the blood-stained and lifeless body of Kos-su'-kah +lying on a rocky ledge far beneath. + +Summoning assistance by means of a signal fire, which was seen +from the Valley below, a rope was made of sapling tamaracks +lashed firmly together with thongs from one of the deer that was +to have furnished the marriage feast, and Tee-hee'-nay herself +insisted on being lowered over the precipice to recover the body +of her lover. This was at last successfully accomplished, and +when his ghastly form lay once more upon the rocky summit, she +threw herself on his bosom and gave way to passionate outburst of +grief. + +Finally she became quiet, but when they stooped to raise her they +found that her spirit had fled to join the lost Kos-su'-kah and +that the lovers were re-united in death! + +The fateful arrow that was the cause of so much sorrow could +never be found, and the Indians believe that it was taken away by +the spirits of Kos-su'-kah and Tee-hee'-nay. In memory of +them, and of this tragedy, the slender spire of rock [sometimes +called "The Devil's Thumb"] that rises heavenward near the top of +the cliff at this point is known among the Indians as Hum-mo', +or the Lost Arrow. + + + + +Appendix + +HINTS TO YOSEMITE VISITORS. + + +Secure stage seats in advance. + +Take only hand baggage, unless for a protracted visit. For a +short trip, an outing suit and two or three waists, with a change +for evening wear, will be found sufficient. The free baggage +allowance on the stage lines is fifty pounds. + +Men will find flannel or negligee shirts the most comfortable. + +In April, May and June wear warm clothing and take heavy wraps. +In July, August and September wear medium clothing, with light +wraps. In October and November wear warm clothing, with heavy +wraps. The nights are cool at all seasons. + +Dusters are always advisable, and ladies should provide some +light head covering to protect the hair from dust. Sun bonnets +are frequently worn. + +Short skirts are most convenient. + +Divided skirts are proper for trail trips, as ladies are required +to ride astride. Heavy denim for skirt and bloomers is very +satisfactory. Such skirts can be hired in the Valley. + +Waists of soft material and neutral shades are appropriate. Avoid +white. + +Something absolutely soft for neckwear will be found a great +comfort, both by men and women. + +Leggings, stout, comfortable shoes, and heavy, loose gloves, will +be found very serviceable. + +A soft felt hat is preferable to straw. One that will shade the +eyes is best. A cloth traveling cap is the worst thing to wear. + +Smoked glasses will sometimes save the wearer a headache. + +Except in April, May and November, an umbrella is apt to be a +useless encumbrance. + +If the skin is sensitive, and one wishes to avoid painful +sunburn, the use of a pure cream and soft cloth is preferable to +water, and far more efficacious. + +A week is the shortest time that should be allowed for a trip to +Yosemite. Two weeks are better. The grandeur of the Valley cannot +be fully appreciated in a few days. Those not accustomed to +staging or mountain climbing should make some allowance in their +itineraries for rest. Many visitors spoil their pleasure by +getting too tired. + +Take a little more money than you think will be needed. You may +want to prolong your stay. + +Hunting, or the possession of firearms, is not permitted in the +Yosemite National Park. Fishing is allowed, and in June and July +an expert angler is likely to be well rewarded. Rods and tackle +may be hired in the Valley. + +There is no hardship, risk or danger in any part of the Yosemite +trip. Many old people and children visit the Valley without +difficulty. + +A knowledge of horsemanship is not needed for going on the +trails. The most timid people make the trips with enjoyment. Some +of the finest views can only be obtained in this way. + +There is a laundry in the Valley. + +There is a barber shop. + +There is a post office, telegraph and express. There is a +general store and places for the sale of photographs, curios and +Indian work. + +Treat the Indians with courtesy and consideration, if you expect +similar treatment from them. Do not expect them to pose for you +for nothing. They are asked to do it hundreds of times every +summer, and are entitled to payment for their trouble. + +Kodak films and plates can be obtained in the Valley. + +Developing and printing are done in the Valley. + +TAKE YOUR CAMERA. + + +OFFICIAL TABLE OF DISTANCES AND LIVERY CHARGES. + +The following are the legal rates for transportation of tourists +in and about the Yosemite Valley: + +CARRIAGES. + +FROM HOTELS OR PUBLIC E D ( R o M R o F +CAMPS, AND RETURN. s i R a f o a f o + t s o t r t u + i t u e F e e L r + m a n o e + a n d f u f s + t c o r o s + e e t r r + d r o t + i P r P h + p a a a + ) r r n + t t + y y + + + Miles Each Each + Person Person +To Cascades, Yosemite and + Bridal Veil Falls 16.00 $1.50 $2.00 + +To Mirror Lake 5.82 1.00 1.00 + +To River View and Bridal + Veil Falls 10.41 1.00 1.50 + +To New Inspiration Point 14.38 2.00 2.50 + +To Happy Isles 4.00 .50 1.00 + +To Yosemite Falls 3.00 .50 .75 + + +SADDLE HORSES. + +----------------------------+------------+---------------+-------------- +FROM HOTELS OR PUBLIC | Estimated | Rate for | Rate for +CAMPS, AND RETURN. | Distance | Party of | Party of Less + | (Round | Four or More | Than Four + | Trip) | | +----------------------------+------------+---------------+-------------- + | Miles | Each Person | Each Person +To Vernal and Nevada Falls | 10.90 | $ 2.50 | $ 3.00 +To Yosemite Falls and Eagle | | | +Peak | 13.18 | 3.00 | 3.00 +To Glacier Point and | | | +Sentinel Dome | 11.14 | 3.00 | 3.00 +To Yosemite Point | 10.00 | 2.50 | 3.00 +To Eagle Peak | 13.00 | 3.00 | 3.00 +To Vernal and Nevada Falls | | | +and Glacier Point | | | +(Continuous Trip) | 19.22 | 4.00 | 5.00 +To Glacier Point, Sentinel | | | +Dome and Fissures | 14.00 | 3.50 | 3.75 +To Old Inspiration Point | | | +and Stanford Point | 16.00 | 4.00 | 4.00 +To Vernal and Nevada Falls | | | +and Cloud's Rest (Same Day) | 22.00 | 4.00 | 5.00 +Charges for Guide | | | +(Including Horse) | | | +When Furnished | | Free | 3.00 +----------------------------+------------+---------------+---------- + +1. Trips other than those above specified shall be subject to +special arrangements between the parties and the stables. + +2. Any excess of the above rates, as well as any extortion, +incivility, misrepresentation, or riding of unsafe animals, +should be reported to the Superintendent's office. + +3. All distances are estimated from the Superintendent's office. + + +SUPPLEMENTARY TABLE OF DISTANCES. + +FROM SUPERINTENDENT'S OFFICE. + + MILES +Bridal Veil Falls 4 +Yosemite Falls, base 3/4 +Upper Yosemite Fall, base 2 3/4 +Upper Yosemite Fall, top 4 1/4 +Little Yosemite Valley 8 +Glacier Point (short trail) 4 1/2 +Glacier Point (via Nevada Falls) 14 1/2 +Cascades 8 + + * * * * * + +INTERPRETATION OF INDIAN NAMES. + +The Indians had names for all the prominent features of the +Yosemite Valley, and these have been variously translated +(sometimes with considerable poetic license), and variously +spelled. The translations given below are as literal as possible, +without embellishment, and are believed to be fairly accurate. +The spelling adopted is such as best indicates the pronunciation. + +The English names, by which the falls and peaks are commonly +known, bear no relation to the Indian names, but were bestowed by +the soldiers of the Mariposa Battalion at the time the Valley +was discovered. The appropriateness and good taste of most of +them are due to Dr. L.H. Bunnell, the surgeon of the expedition. + + +AH-WAH'-NEE (original name of Yosemite Valley)--"Deep grassy +valley." + +YO-SEM'-I-TE--"Full-grown grizzly bear." + +PO-HO'-NO (Bridal Veil)--"A puffing-wind." + +LOI'-YA (The Sentinel)--"A signal station." + +CHO'-LACK (Yosemite Falls)--"The falls." + +CHO-KO'-NI (Royal Arches)--"Canopy of baby basket." Strictly +speaking, this name applies only to a deep alcove near the top of +this cliff. + +YO-WEI'-YEE (Nevada)--"Twisting." + +TO-TAU-KON-NU'-LA (El Capitan)--Named from the To-tau'-kons, +or cranes, which used to make their nests in a meadow near the +top of this rock. + +KU-SO'-KO (Cathedral Rock)--Interpretation doubtful. + +PU-SEE'-NA CHUCK'-AH (Cathedral Spires)--"Pu-see-na" means +mouse or rat, and might possibly be applied to a squirrel. +"Chuck-ah" is a store house or _cache_. + +WAW-HAW'-KEE (Three Brothers)--"Falling rocks." +Pom-pom-pa'-sus, usually given as the Indian name of the Three +Brothers, is the name of a smaller rock immediately to the West. + +WEI-YOW' (Mt. Watkins)--"Juniper Mountain." + +TO-KO'-YA (North Dome)--"The Basket." + +TIS-SA'-ACK (Half Dome)--A character in Indian mythology. + +MAH'-TA (Cap of Liberty)--Said to mean "Martyr Mountain." + +PI-WEI'-ACK (Vernal Fall)--Said to mean "Sparkling water." + +LE-HAM'-I-TEE (Indian Canyon)--"The place of the arrow-wood." + +HUM-MO' (Devil's Thumb)--"The Lost Arrow." + +AH-WEI'-YA (Mirror Lake)--"Quiet Water." + +TOO-LOO'-LO-WEI-ACK (Illillouette Fall)--Interpretation +doubtful. + +WAH'-WO-NAH--"Big Tree." (Now commonly spelled and pronounced +Wa-wo'-na.) + + +HEIGHTS OF YOSEMITE'S WATER-FALLS. + FEET + +Cascades 700 +Bridal Veil 940 +Ribbon 3,300 +Sentinel 3,270 +Yosemite (Upper 1,600 ft.; Lower 400 ft.) 2,634 +Royal Arch 2,000 +Vernal 350 +Nevada 700 +Illillouette 500 + + +YOSEMITE'S PEAKS AND DOMES. WITH ALTITUDES ABOVE FLOOR OF VALLEY. + +(The Valley Floor is about 4,000 feet above sea level.) + + FEET + +Inspiration Point 1,248 +El Capitan 3,300 +Cathedral Rock 2,678 +Cathedral Spires 1,934 +Royal Arches (span) 2,000 +The Sentinel 3,100 +Sentinel Dome 4,122 +Three Brothers 3,900 +Eagle Peak 3,900 +Yosemite Point 3,220 +Glacier Point 3,250 +North Dome 3,725 +Half Dome 5,000 +Cap of Liberty. 3,062 +Union Point 2,350 +Cloud's Rest. 5,912 +Mt. Starr King 5,100 + + +NAMES OF INDIAN NUMERALS. + +King-eet' One +O-tee'-cat Two +Tul-o'-cat Three +O-e'-sart Four +Mo'-ho''-cat Five +Te'-mo''-cat Six +Te-tow'-ok Seven +Cow-in'-tuk Eight +El'-e''-wok Nine +Ne-ah'-jah Ten + +Larger numbers are expressed by combinations of these numbers. + + +INDIAN WORDS IN COMMON USE. + +Wat-too' The Sun +Co'-ma Moon +He-a'-mah Day +Cow-il'-la Night +Tum-aw'-lin North +Chu'-muck South +He'-home East +El-o'-win West +Het-a-poo'-pa Cold +Wool-tut'-tee Hat* +Come'-haw Burn +Chum'-haw Dead or Die +Na'-win Up or Above +Hoo'-ya Down or Below +Wool-ar'-nee To Hunt or Look For +Took'-hah To Kill +E'-win Now +Oo'-haw By and By +Man'-nik More +Ut'-tee Much +Wa'-le-co Quick +Now'-tah To Steal +Nung'-hah Man +O'-hock Woman +Es-el'-lo Baby or Infant + +*Transcriber's note: This appears to be a typographical error for "Hot." +See "Central Sierra Miwok Dictionary with Texts" by L. S. Freeland +and Sylvia M. Broadbent (Publications in Linguistics vol. XXIII, +University of California Press, Berkeley, 1960). + + +NAMES OF THE INDIAN TRIBES PLACED ON THE FRESNO AND KINGS RIVER +RESERVATIONS IN 1850 AND 1851. + +Names of Tribes-- From-- + +Wil-tuk'-um-nees Tuolumne River +Yo-sem'-i-tees Yosemite Valley +Po-to-en'-sees and Noot'-choos Merced River +Chow-chil'-lies Chowchilla Valley +Me'-woos Fresno Valley +Chook-chan'-cies Fresno and San Joaquin Rivers +Ho-na'-ches San Joaquin River +Pit-cal'-chees and Tal-an'-chees San Joaquin Valley +Cas-was'-sees Fine Gold Gulch +Wah-too'-kees, Wat'-chees, +No'-to-no'-tose and We-mel'-chees Kings River +Cow-il'-lees and Tel-um'-nees Four Creeks +Woo'-wells and Tal'-chees Tule Lake + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Indians of the Yosemite Valley and +Vicinity, by Galen Clark + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INDIANS OF THE YOSEMITE *** + +***** This file should be named 16572.txt or 16572.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/5/7/16572/ + +Produced by David Starner, Jim Land and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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