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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of the Expedition to Dongola
+and Sennaar, by George Bethune English
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Narrative of the Expedition to Dongola and Sennaar
+       Under the Command of His Excellence Ismael Pasha, undertaken
+       by Order of His Highness Mehemmed Ali Pasha, Viceroy of
+       Egypt, By An American In The Service Of The Viceroy
+
+Author: George Bethune English
+
+Release Date: January 24, 2006 [EBook #17592]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITION TO DONGOLA AND SENNAAR ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Charles Klingman
+
+
+
+
+
+A
+
+NARRATIVE
+
+OF THE
+
+EXPEDITION
+
+TO
+
+DONGOLA AND SENNAAR,
+
+UNDER THE
+
+COMMAND OF HIS EXCELLENCE ISMAEL PASHA,
+
+UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER OF
+
+HIS HIGHNESS MEHEMMED ALI PASHA, VICEROY OF EGYPT.
+
+BY AN AMERICAN IN THE SERVICE OF THE VICEROY.
+
+LONDON:
+
+JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1822.
+
+
+
+London: Printed by C. Roworth, Bell Yard Temple Bar
+
+
+
+TO
+
+HIS BRITANNIC MAJESTY'S
+
+CONSUL GENERAL IN EGYPT,
+
+HENRY SALT, ESQ.
+
+MY FATHERLY FRIEND IN A FOREIGN LAND,
+THIS WORK IS DEDICATED, WITH
+AFFECTIONATE RESPECT,
+BY
+
+THE AUTHOR:
+
+AND RECOMMENDED TO THE KIND CARE AND PATRONAGE OF
+
+JOHN WILLIAM BANKES, ESQ.
+
+BY HIS OBLIGED FRIEND AND SERVANT,
+
+HENRY SALT.
+
+
+
+By George Bethune English, General of Artillery in the U.S. Service
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+MEHEMMED ALI PASHA, the victorious pacificator of Egypt and Arabia, is
+already renowned in the civilized world. Egypt, once the home of discord
+and the headquarters of anarchy, under his administration has long
+enjoyed peace and prosperity; is permeable in all directions, and
+in perfect safety to the merchant and the traveler, and is yearly
+progressing in wealth and improvement.[1]
+
+The Viceroy has been particularly attentive to revive and extend those
+commercial relations of Egypt with the surrounding countries, which once
+rendered it the richest and most flourishing territory in the ancient
+world.
+
+A well chosen library of the best European books on the art military,
+geography, astronomy, medicine, history, belles-lettres and the fine
+arts has been purchased from Europe by the Viceroy and placed in
+the palace of Ismael Pasha, where is also a school, at the Viceroy's
+expense, for the instruction of the Mussulman youth in the Italian
+language and the sciences of the Franks. To which establishments has
+been lately added a printing press, for printing books in the Turkish,
+Arabic and Persian languages, and a weekly newspaper in Arabic and
+Italian. The library and the press are under the superintendence of
+Osman Noureddin Effendi, a young Turk of great good sense, and who
+is well versed in the literature of Europe, where he has resided for
+several years, by order of the Viceroy, for his education: he is at
+present engaged in translating into Turkish some works on tactics, for
+the use of his countrymen.
+
+For several years past the inland commerce of this favored land had
+suffered great interruptions from the confusion and discord to which the
+countries on the Upper Nile have been a prey. The chiefs of Shageia had
+formed themselves into a singular aristocracy of brigands, and pillaged
+all the provinces and caravans within their reach, without mercy and
+without restraint; while the civil wars, which have distracted the
+once powerful kingdom of Sennaar for these last eighteen years, had
+occasioned an almost entire cessation of a commerce, from which Egypt
+had derived great advantages.
+
+His Highness the Viceroy, in consequence, determined, as the most
+effectual means of putting an end to these disorders, to subject those
+countries to his dominion.
+
+Four thousand troops were accordingly put under the command of Ismael
+Pasha, the youngest son of the Viceroy, with orders to conquer all the
+provinces on the Nile, from the Second Cataract to Sennaar inclusive.
+
+Through the influence of the recommendation of Henry Salt, Esq., His
+Britannic Majesty's Consul General in Egypt, I was ordered by the
+Viceroy to accompany this expedition, with the rank of Topgi Bashi,
+i.e. a chief of artillery, and with directions to propose such plans of
+operation to the Pasha Ismael as I should deem expedient, but which the
+Pasha might adopt or reject as he should think proper.
+
+This expedition has been perfectly successful; and the conquest of
+the extensive and fertile countries, which, in the reign of Candace,
+repulsed the formidable legions of Rome, has been effected at an expense
+not greater than the blood of about two hundred soldiers.
+
+The principal cause of a success so extraordinary, at such a price,
+has been the humanity and good faith of the Pasha Ismael towards those
+provinces that submitted without fighting. Perfect security of person
+and property was assured to the peaceable, and severe examples were made
+of those few of the soldiery, who, in a very few instances, presumed to
+violate it. The good consequences of this deportment toward the people
+of these countries have been evident. All have seen that those who have
+preferred peace before war have had peace without war, and that those
+who preferred war before peace have not had peace but at the price of
+ruin.
+
+The destruction or disarmament of the brigands, who have heretofore
+pillaged those countries with impunity--the establishment of order
+and tranquility--the security now assured to the peasants and the
+caravans--and the annexment of so many fine provinces and kingdoms to
+the sway of the Viceroy of Egypt,[2] are not the only consequences of this
+expedition that will give him glory.
+
+This expedition has laid open to the researches of the geographer and
+the antiquarian a river and a country highly interesting, and hitherto
+imperfectly known to the civilized world. The Nile, on whose banks we
+have marched for so many hundred miles, is the most famous river in
+the world, for the uncertainty of its source and the obscurity of its
+course. At present this obscurity ceases to exist, and before the return
+of the Pasha Ismael this uncertainty will probably be no more. The
+countries we have traversed are renowned in history and poetry as
+the land of ancient and famous nations, which have established and
+overthrown mighty empires, and have originated the religions, the
+learning, the arts, and the civilization of nations long since extinct;
+and who have been preceded by their instructors in the common road which
+every thing human must travel.
+
+This famous land of Cush and Saba, at present overawed by the camps
+of the Osmanii, has presented to our observation many memorials of the
+power and splendor of its ancient masters. The remains of cities once
+populous--ruined temples once magnificent--colossal statues of
+idols once adored, but now prostrated by the strong arms of time and
+truth--and more than a hundred pyramids, which entomb the bodies of
+kings and conquerors once mighty, but whose memory has perished, have
+suspended for awhile the march of our troops--have attracted the
+notice of the Franks, who voyage with the army with the favor and the
+protection of the Pasha,[3] and which doubtless ere long, by engaging the
+attention and researches of men of learning, will unite the names of
+Mehemmed Ali and Ismael his son with the history and monuments of this
+once famous and long secluded land, in a manner that will make the
+memory of both renowned and inseparable.
+
+That the further progress of the Pasha Ismael southward of his present
+position will be successful, there is every reason to believe; and I
+derive great pleasure from the reflection, that his success will still
+further augment the glory of the man whom the Sultan delights to honor,
+and who has done so much for the honor of the Mussulmans.
+
+The Reader will find that I have sometimes, in the course of this
+Journal, included the events of several days in the form of narrative,
+particularly in my account of the Second Cataract. Wherever I have so
+done, it has been occasioned by paroxysms of a severe ophthalmia, which
+afflicted me for fifteen months, and rendered me at times incapable of
+writing.
+
+
+
+
+
+A NARRATIVE
+
+&c. &c. &c.
+
+
+I arrived at the camp at Wady Haifa on the Second Cataract, on the 16th
+of the moon Zilhadge, in the year of the Hegira 3255,[4] where I found
+about four thousand troops,[5] consisting of Turkish cavalry, infantry and
+artillery, and a considerable proportion of Bedouin cavalry and Mogrebin
+foot soldiers, besides about one hundred and twenty large boats loaded
+with provisions and ammunition, and destined to follow the march of the
+army to the upper countries of the Nile.
+
+17th of Zilhadge. Presented myself to his Excellency the Pasha Ismael,
+by whom I was received in a very nattering manner, and presented with a
+suit of his own habiliments.
+
+On my asking his Excellency if he had any orders for me, he replied,
+that he was at present solely occupied in expediting the loading and
+forwarding the boats carrying the provisions of the army, but that when
+that was finished he would send for me to receive his commands.
+
+I employed this interval in noticing the assemblage that composed the
+army. The chiefs and soldiers I found well disposed to do their duty,
+through attachment to their young commander and through fear of Mehemmed
+Ali. They were alert to execute what orders they received, and very busy
+in smoking their pipes when they had nothing else to do.
+
+On the 19th I was sent for by the Pasha, with whom I remained in private
+audience for an hour.
+
+On the 21st of the moon Zilhadge was attacked by that distressing malady
+the ophthalmia. In two days the progress of the disorder was such
+that my eyes were closed up and incapable of supporting the light, and
+occasioned me such acute anguish that I could get no sleep but by
+the effect of laudanum. This misfortune at this crisis was peculiarly
+vexatious and mortifying for me, as it put it out of my power to
+accompany the Pasha, who departed with the army for Dongola on the 26th,
+taking his route on the west bank of the river, and leaving the Divan
+Effendi and a small party of soldiers to expedite the loading and
+forwarding the boats that had not as yet got ready to proceed up the
+Cataract.
+
+On the 3d of Mofiarram, A. H. 1236, I embarked on board the boat of the
+Frank surgeons attached to the army, and left the lower or north end
+of the Second Cataract as it is commonly styled in the maps, in company
+with fifteen boats to follow and rejoin the army.
+
+I would here observe that what is called the Second Cataract is properly
+a succession of partial falls and swift rapids for more than a hundred
+miles before we arrived at Succoot. I counted nine; some of them,
+particularly the second,[6] fifth,[7] seventh,[8] and ninth,[9] very
+dangerous to pass, though at this time the Nile had fallen but a few
+feet. Before we arrived at the fifth, two boats were wrecked against the
+rocks which crowd the rapids, and one filled and sunk; and before we had
+passed the ninth several similar accidents had taken place. To pass the
+fifth and ninth rapids, it was necessary to employ about a hundred men
+to drag the boats one after another against the current. At the fifth
+pass, several of the boats were damaged, and two soldiers and two
+boatmen drowned. At this pass, the river is interrupted by a ledge of
+rocks reaching nearly across, and over which the Nile falls. Between
+this ledge of rocks and the western shore of the river is a practicable
+passage, wide enough to admit a boat to be hauled up the current, which
+here runs furiously. Overlooking this passage are two hills, one on the
+east and one on the west side of the river: on these hills are the ruins
+of ancient fortifications. They are also surmounted by two small temples
+in the Egyptian style: that on the west side is almost perfect. It is
+sculptured exteriorly and interiorly with figures and hieroglyphics, and
+the ceiling is painted azure.[10]
+
+The appearance of the country on each side of the falls is similar to
+that of the country south of Assuan--a sandy desert studded with rocky
+hills and mountains, The only appearance of vegetation observable was
+in some of the islands and on the immediate banks of the river, where
+we met at every mile or two with small spots of fertile ground, some
+of them cultivated and inhabited. The rocky hills consist frequently
+of beautiful black granite, of the color and brilliancy of the best
+sea-coal. Here and there, at different points on the Cataract, I
+observed some forts built by the natives of the country. They are
+constructed of unhewn stones cemented with mud, and flanked by towers
+and angular projections something resembling bastions, and are pierced
+with loopholes for musquetry. Their interior presents the following
+appearance:--against the interior side of the walls all round are built
+low chambers, communicating by small doors with the area and frequently
+with each other. I could observe nothing in these chambers except the
+bottom part of the small handmills used by the Orientals to grind meal,
+which could not be hastily removed as they were fixed in the ground;
+every thing else the inhabitants had carried off on the approach of the
+army. The great area in the centre of these forts appeared to have been
+occupied by the camels and flocks of the inhabitants; some of these
+forts are to be seen surmounting the high rocky islands with which the
+Second Cataract abounds, and make a picturesque appearance.
+
+On the 2d of the moon Safa, we passed what our Rais erroneously told us
+was the last rapid between us and Succoot. We have been thirty days in
+getting thus far,[11] the causes of our having been so long in getting up
+the Falls were several. The crews of the boats which had passed unhurt
+a dangerous passage were frequently detained to unload and repair
+those which had been wrecked or damaged.--We have been detained at the
+entrances of these rapids frequently for several days, for want of a
+sufficient wind, it being absolutely necessary that the wind should be
+very strong to enable the boats to force themselves through currents
+running between the rocks with dreadful rapidity; and more than once the
+boatmen have hesitated to attempt a dangerous pass till obliged by the
+presence and menaces of the Divan Effendi who accompanied the boats.
+
+On the 3d of Safa, about an hour after we had passed what our Rais told
+us was the last rapid of consequence we should have to encounter, we saw
+the wreck of a boat lying against a rock in the middle of the river, her
+masts alone appearing out of the water. The river here is interrupted
+by several high insulated rocks. We had been assured that we should
+now find the river open and without difficulty, till we should come
+to Succoot; the appearance of this boat seemed to contradict this
+representation, and in about an hour after we had abundant reason to be
+satisfied that it was false. I was congratulating myself that we had got
+into smooth water, and indulging myself with a tranquil pipe of tobacco,
+when suddenly the wind slackened just as we were passing between two
+ledges of rocks where the river was running at the rate of about six
+knots an hour. The current overpowered the effort of the sails, and
+carried the boat directly among the reefs, near the west bank of
+the river. After remaining for about ten minutes in a very perilous
+position, the skill of our Rais happily got the boat to shore without
+injury.
+
+3d of Safa. We remained all night at the place where we landed; in
+the morning got under sail to pass the strong current we had attempted
+yesterday without success. After buffeting about for an hour we were
+forced to return to the bank of the river, and await a stronger wind. In
+about an hour after the wind freshened and we got under way with better
+fortune, and after passing the current before mentioned found ourselves
+in smooth water. After sailing for an hour we stopped for ten minutes
+at a place where we saw sheep, in order to purchase some, having for
+the last twenty days been obliged to live on bread, rice, and lentils.
+Succeeded in purchasing two lambs. The banks of the river hereabouts
+present some fertile spots, a few of them cultivated. About noon the
+wind fell and the Rais put to shore; we immediately set our domestics
+about preparing the purchased meat, and shortly after we sat down to
+this regale, which appeared to me the most delicious meal I had eaten
+for many years.[12] Remained here for the remainder of the day.
+
+4th of Safa. Continued in the same place, there not being sufficient
+wind to ascend the river. About two hours after noon arrived an Arab
+from above; he was on his way to the Divan Effendi, who was a few miles
+below us, to inform him that a boat, of which he had been one of the
+crew, had been dashed to pieces against the rocks in attempting to pass
+a rapid. I demanded of him "how many rapids there were yet ahead;" he
+replied "that there were several; how many he did not exactly know."
+This intelligence made me apprehensive that we might be another month in
+getting through these obstacles, and determined me to renew my efforts
+to obtain camels and proceed to the Pasha by land. I had made several
+attempts to hire some for this purpose, during the last fifteen days,
+without success. The man above mentioned informed me that I could
+probably obtain some at a village about six hours off. I determined to
+send my servants on the morrow to inquire.
+
+5th of Safa. Passed the night at the same place; early in, the morning
+a favorable breeze sprung up and the Rais got the boat under sail. Was
+obliged, in consequence, to proceed in the boat as long as the wind
+held. Observed as we proceeded a number of fertile spots, some of them
+cultivated, and a few small villages. I was informed that these will
+become more frequent as we proceed. During this day, with a favorable
+wind, made only about twelve miles against the current.
+
+6th of Safa. Got under way about two hours after sunrise, with a strong
+breeze from the northward. About half an hour after quitting the land,
+passed a dangerous rapid, occasioned by a. reef of rocks reaching nearly
+across the river. In passing this rapid the wind slackened for half a
+minute, and the current carried the boat astern to within six or seven
+feet of the rocks; at this critical instant the wind happily freshened,
+and forced the boat up the current, to the great relief of all on board.
+An hour after, passed a picturesque spot, where the river is divided by
+a high rocky island, supporting on its summit some ruined fortifications
+made by the natives; on the right bank of the river, just opposite, is
+a fertile spot of ground and a village, surrounded by date trees and
+plantations.
+
+Our Rais put to land about noon, the wind falling, and rocks and rapids
+of formidable appearance being right ahead.[13] We have made about eight
+miles to-day. Saw about two miles above us a number of boats lying to
+the shore, apparently obstructed by the rapid just mentioned. About the
+middle of the afternoon, in walking along the shore, saw a crocodile;
+it was small, about three feet in length. When I came upon him, he was
+sunning himself on the shore; on seeing me, he ran with great rapidity
+and plunged into the river.
+
+7th of Safa. Got under way about two hours after sunrise, to pass the
+rocks and rapids already mentioned. The passage was dangerous, and the
+boat thrice in imminent peril. We struck once on rocks under water,
+where the current was running probably at the rate of six knots an hour.
+
+The current, after about ten minutes, swept the boat off without having
+received a hole in her bottom, otherwise we must probably have perished.
+Shortly after we were jammed between a great shallow whirlpool and a
+large boat on our starboard beam. This boat was dashed by the current
+against ours, and menaced to shove her into the whirlpool. The long
+lateen yards of the two boats got entangled, and I was prepared to leap
+into the other boat, in anticipation of the destruction of ours, when
+the wind freshened, and the large boat was enabled to get clear of ours.
+Not long after, the same boat fell aboard of us the second time, in
+a place where, if our boat had drifted twice her length to leeward or
+astern, she must have run upon rocks. All these accidents befell us,
+having under our eyes, at no great distance from us, the wreck of a boat
+lost in this passage three or four days ago.[14] After being for about two
+hours in danger, the boat arrived at the west bank of the river, where
+we found many more waiting a sufficient wind to be enabled to clear the
+remainder of the rapid, which runs very strong here.
+
+Stayed for a wind at this place two days. On the 10th of Safa, the boat
+happily passed the remainder of the rapid, when the wind calmed, and
+the Rais put to shore, there being yet a strong current to surmount.
+Opposite to the place where we were, at about half a mile from the
+shore, a boat had stuck fast upon some rocks this morning, all attempts
+to get her off had proved unsuccessful, and she remained in that
+position, with all her company on board, till next morning.
+
+11th of Safa. Quitted the shore about an hour after sunrise, with a fine
+northerly wind. Passed the boat just mentioned, whose people looked
+very forlorn. Some small boats were then on the way to unload this boat,
+should it be found impossible to disengage her. Proceeded on our way,
+and passed a number of small but pretty islands, lying near the west
+bank of the river. They are cultivated and inhabited by a considerable
+population. The country on the borders of the river begins to assume a
+better appearance--the territory of Succoot, which we were now entering,
+containing many villages. Beyond the green banks of the river, all
+is yellow desert, spotted with brown rocky mountains, which, however,
+appeared to decrease in number and height as we advanced up the river,
+till the country subsided into a plain, with a few isolated mountains of
+singular forms and picturesque appearance here and there in view.
+About two hours after mid-day we arrived at a place where the river
+is embarrassed by small rocks and shoals, except a narrow pass on the
+western side. We found the current here too strong to be surmounted by
+the aid of what wind we had, and therefore put to shore on a very
+fine island on our left. We passed the remainder of the day here
+with satisfaction. This island is about a mile and a half in length,
+naturally beautiful, and well cultivated by about fifty or sixty
+inhabitants, who seemed to be well contented with their situation.[15]
+We saw here three men of about twenty-five years of age, who had been
+circumcised but five days past, a thing I had never before known to have
+occurred to the children of Mussulmans.
+
+12th of Safa. At an early hour, quitted the shore with a strong
+northerly wind, to pass the current which had stopped us yesterday. This
+day's sail was the most agreeable of any we had enjoyed since we left
+Egypt, the river, since we had passed the rapids of Dall, (where the
+second cataract of the Nile properly commences,) having become as
+broad as in Egypt, and now flowing tranquilly through a country equally
+fertile, and much more picturesque than the finest parts of Said.
+The eastern bank of the river, particularly, presented a continual
+succession of villages, and fine soil crowded with trees, and all
+cultivated. Passed, during the day, some fine and large islands, also
+occupied by numerous villages. We stopped at night at one of these
+islands, by whose beautiful borders we had been sailing with great
+pleasure for more than four hours, with a stiff breeze. We were in
+formed by the inhabitants, that this island was a day's walk in breadth.
+They said, that, as we advanced, we should find others as large and
+larger. Their island, they told us, was called Syee. They appeared to be
+well satisfied with their condition, having an abundance of every thing
+absolutely needful for a comfortable subsistence, and decent clothing of
+their own manufacture. What surprised me not a little, was to find the
+people as white as the Arabs of Lower Egypt, whereas the inhabitants of
+Nubia are quite black, though their features are not those of the Negro.
+
+I have observed, that the country through which we passed to-day, was
+as fertile and much more picturesque than the Said. The reason for the
+latter part of this assertion is, that in the Said the view is limited
+by the ridges of barren and calcined mountains that bound it on both
+sides, whereas here the view ranges over plains bounded only by the
+horizon, and interspersed here and there with isolated mountains of most
+singular forms. Some of them might be mistaken for pyramids, they are
+so regular and well defined; some resembled lofty cones, and others
+resembled lofty square or pentagonal redoubts. One of the latter
+description lies upon the eastern bank of the river, and could easily
+be made an impregnable fortress, which could command all water
+communication between Egypt and Dongola. The scenes of verdure and
+cultivation through which we had passed today, removed all suspicions
+from my mind as to what had been reported to me of the great difference
+between Nubia and the country beyond it.
+
+All the villages we have passed to-day, have in their centre a fort or
+castle, fortified with towers at the corners, and, judging from those
+we visited, resembling in their interior those on the cataract already
+described. The village, consisting of low huts, built of mud, is built
+round the walls of the fort, which is intended to serve as a place of
+retreat and defense for the inhabitants and their flocks, in case of
+alarm or attack. They are governed in the manner of the families of the
+patriarchs, the Sheck of the village being both judge and captain.
+Saw at this island a small skiff, the first boat belonging to the
+inhabitants of the country that I have seen since quitting Wady Halfa.
+
+12th of Safa, Parted from the land about an hour after sunrise and
+proceeded on our voyage, which was, if possible, still more agreeable
+than that of yesterday. On the east bank of the river, the eye rests
+on a continued succession of villages, occupying land of the finest
+quality, and lying under a continued forest of palm trees, larger and
+taller, in my opinion, than those growing in Egypt. On the right we
+saw, as we passed, a chain of beautiful islands, some of them large
+and presenting the same spectacle as the east bank. It is certainly a
+beautiful country. The river from Assuan has only about half the breadth
+that it has in Egypt. In this country it is as broad, and in many
+places, on account of the large islands it here contains, very much
+broader than it is in Egypt. We stopped at night at one of these fine
+islands, whose breadth being but about two miles, enabled us to have a
+view of the west bank of the river, which presented the same succession
+of villages and cultivation as on the oriental side. I have already
+observed, that the date trees of this country were larger and taller
+than those in Egypt. We found a similar difference in the animals of
+this country; I purchased a sucking lamb, which was certainly as big as
+an Egyptian sheep of a year's growth. The cattle of this country differ
+from those of Egypt, in bearing, as to form, a resemblance to the
+buffalo. They have a rising on the shoulder, and a similar form of the
+hips. They are also larger than the cows of Egypt.
+
+14th of Safa. The wind did not spring up this morning till a late hour,
+and after continuing for about an hour and a half, fell calm. We put to
+shore on the western bank of the river, where we passed the remainder
+of the day and the night. The country continued fine and crowded with
+villages. At this place, some of the boat's company attempted to shoot
+a hippopotamus, who had shown himself several times during the day. They
+succeeded only in slightly wounding him, after which he disappeared. The
+people of the country say that there are twelve that frequent this place
+in the river, which contains here some low islands, well adapted to
+afford them food and concealment.
+
+16th of Safa. Parted from the land about two hours after sunrise, with
+a strong breeze. After continuing an hour and a half the wind subsided
+into a calm, which obliged us to make for the shore. We landed on a
+large island resembling those already mentioned, where we passed the
+remainder of the day and the night. The country we had passed resembled
+that below, beautiful, and as fertile as land can be.
+
+16th of Safa. Left the land about an hour after sunrise, and in half an
+hour passed the southern boundary of the beautiful territory of Succoot,
+and entered the province of Machass. The country we were now passing is
+naturally fertile, but has not such a continued succession of villages
+as Succoot. About three hours after sunrise came in view of the ruins
+of an ancient temple on the west bank. With some difficulty engaged the
+Rais to put to shore for a few minutes, to give me an opportunity of
+visiting it. This temple is manifestly of Egyptian architecture; it is
+about two hundred feet long from east to west; ten of the columns only
+are standing; they are composed of separate blocks of a brown stone
+resembling that employed in the construction of the temples in the isle
+of Philoe. The walls of this temple are in ruins, except a part of the
+front which is in a very dilapidated state. The front faces the
+East; the pillars and the ruins of the walls are sculptured with
+hieroglyphics. It stands on the west bank of the river about two miles
+beyond the territory of Succoot. About an hour after leaving this place,
+the wind falling, our Rais was obliged to put to shore. We soon arrived
+at the western bank of the river, the Nile being in this place not a
+mile broad. The remainder of the day being calm, we staid here till next
+morning. Several of the Pasha's Cavalry passed along the west bank of
+the river yesterday and to-day, bearing repeated orders from Dongola to
+the commanders of the boats to hasten their progress.
+
+17th of Safa. At an early hour started with a favorable wind, but in
+about two hours were obliged to put to shore. The river hereabouts makes
+several turns almost at right angles with each other. This circumstance
+brought the wind directly ahead in one of the bends and obliged us to
+remain there till next morning. The country we saw to-day is not equal
+to the territory of Succoot; the date trees, the villages, and the
+cultivation are not so continued; and the view from the river is bounded
+at a little distance from its banks by low rocky hills. Saw to-day
+a singular mode of navigating the river; a man, who apparently was
+traveling down the river with his whole family, had placed his youngest
+wife and her two young children on a small raft made of bundles of
+corn-stalks lashed together, he himself swam by its side to guide it,
+while he kept his old wife a swimming and pushing it by the stern, and
+in this way they proceeded down the river.
+
+I have seen in this country small rafts made to carry one person, which
+are very well contrived. Three or four large empty gourds are fastened
+firmly to a small oblong frame made out of the branches of the date
+tree, the whole not weighing two pounds. A man may go safely down or
+across the river on this, either by fastening it to his breast and
+swimming supported by it, or by riding on it astride; and when on shore
+he can carry it with ease either in his hand or on his shoulder.
+
+18th of Safa, In the morning found that the wind had changed a little
+in our favor, got under way, but after sailing for about two hours the
+winding of the river again brought it ahead. Put to shore and staid
+there till the middle of the afternoon, when the wind again hauled a
+little in our favor, and with some difficulty we got to windward of the
+shore and proceeded up the river. The river here is about half a mile
+broad, and makes several turns which somewhat retarded our progress.
+We observed some rocks and shoals, and on arriving at a place where the
+river is divided by a large rocky island, observed a boat aground, which
+had taken the right hand passage which was the broadest, and two others
+turning back to take the passage on the other side of this island. We
+followed their example, and found the passage safe enough. A little
+beyond the upper end of this island the river makes an acute angle to
+the right hand. We proceeded onwards till sunset, when we put to shore
+in company with two other boats. The country we have passed through
+to-day resembled that we saw yesterday, inferior to the fine territory
+of Succoot.
+
+19th of Safa, Left the land an hour and a half after sunrise, with a
+fine breeze from the north. Sailed for about an hour through a country
+where the rocky hills come down here and there close to the river
+banks and narrowed the usual breadth of the Nile considerably. Observed
+however in this tract of country a few fine and cultivated islands.
+Shortly after the river widened, the rocky hills retired at a distance,
+and the eye rested with pleasure on a beautiful country cultivated by
+the inhabitants of a continued succession of villages and castles which
+occupied both banks of the river. The country resembled the province of
+Succoot, except that the date trees were not so numerous nor so tall and
+large. Passed the ruins of a considerable fortified town situated on a
+high hill on the west bank. A little beyond this place saw the ruins of
+a temple; four of the columns are yet standing; could not go ashore to
+examine it, as the wind was fair and strong, and the Rais under positive
+orders to proceed with all expedition. Observed that several of the
+castles we had passed yesterday and to-day appeared newer and better
+constructed for defense than those we had seen along the Cataract.
+I suspect that they were erected under the direction of the exiled
+Mamalukes, as this tract forms a part of the territory subject to them
+before the arrival of the Pasha Ismael. Continued to advance, through
+a country very beautiful, the river here embosoming several large and
+delightful islands, capable of being made, by the hands of enlightened
+industry, every thing that the art of man operating upon a fine soil
+under a soft climate could effect. We sailed pleasantly by these
+charming shores and islands till an hour and a half before sunset,
+when we came in view of a rapid ahead, and the wreck of a boat lost in
+passing it. The Rais put to shore, and after taking on board a native
+of the country to show him the passage through the rocks and shallows,
+attempted to pass immediately; the effort was unsuccessful. After
+remaining in the foaming passage for three quarters of an hour, we
+found that the wind was not strong enough to force the boat through the
+current, and as the sun was about setting and the wind falling, the Rais
+was obliged to let the boat drift back to the shore from whence we had
+departed.
+
+18th of Safa. At about two hours after sunrise, the Rais thought the
+wind sufficiently favorable and strong to carry the boat through the
+rapid. We quitted the shore, and again faced the current. The Rais this
+time was not mistaken; our boat forced her way slowly but victoriously
+through the torrent, and in about three quarters of an hour carried us
+safely into smooth water, where we could draw every advantage from a
+fine wind, which swept us rapidly up the river between shores fertile
+and cultivated by the inhabitants of a continued succession of villages
+shaded by palm trees. About an hour after we had passed the rapid, we
+stopped to receive on board three of our company who had left the boat
+yesterday in search of fresh provisions on the western bank of the
+river. They reported that they had seen a large pond of fresh water
+inland, and had found the country for seven miles from the river crowded
+with villages, and as fertile as possible. They represented that this
+country was watered by two ranges of water-wheels; one range on the
+bank of the river, which threw the water of the Nile into small canals
+leading to reservoirs inland, from whence the other range took it up and
+distributed it to this fine territory. About noon we passed, on the
+east bank, two very high, large and isolated rocks of irregular and
+picturesque forms. On the side of the southernmost were the remains of
+a considerable fortified town. The country hereabouts is very beautiful.
+About three o'clock we passed another rapid, which was not however very
+difficult. Found the river beyond this place much narrowed and impeded
+by rocks. Passed two more rapids, the first of little consequence, but
+the latter somewhat dangerous. In this last rapid saw two boys sitting
+on a raft made of cornstalks lashed together, and driving down the
+current. They appeared to be much at their ease, and not at all alarmed
+at the rapid, though the current frequently whirled their fragile raft
+round and round as it rushed past us. Soon after passing this rapid the
+sun set, and we put to shore to pass the night.
+
+19th of Safa. About two hours after sunrise we left the shore with a
+fair and fresh breeze. The river here is broad, and the country on both
+banks fertile and peopled. After about an hour's sail we came up with
+some beautiful islands, one of them very large and among the finest we
+had seen. The islands above the Second Cataract are probably the most
+beautiful spots watered by the Nile, which rarely over flows them. They
+are the most populous and best cultivated parts of this country. Half
+an hour after we came up with the large island, the wind became squally,
+and the boat could not make safe progress. Our rais therefore put
+to shore, as did those of five other boats in company with ours. We
+remained here for the rest of the day.
+
+20th of Safa. In the morning, left the laud with the wind almost ahead.
+After sailing about three miles, the rais found it necessary to put to
+shore, as the wind was strong and too much ahead. Stayed by the land
+till nearly noon, when the wind appearing to me and others on board,
+more favorable, we, after some hard words with the rais, persuaded him
+to get under way, the wind being about the same as in the morning, and
+very strong. In about an hour we arrived at a bend in the river, which
+enabled us to bring the wind aft.
+
+We proceeded with great rapidity, threading the rocks and shoals with
+which the river here abounds, till we came in view of a rapid ahead.
+We had been informed, two days ago, that there was a dangerous rapid
+between us and Dongola, and we congratulated ourselves that the wind was
+fair and strong to push us through it; we passed it happily, though
+not without peril. We felicitated ourselves on having cleared the only
+obstacle, as we supposed, between us and the place of our destination,
+when we came in view of another, of a more formidable appearance than
+any we had yet seen. The passage lay where the river rolled furiously
+over rocks under water, and between shores there was no approaching, on
+account of the shoals and rocks above and under water which lined them.
+The strong wind forced our boat alongside of another that was struggling
+and reeling in the passage, to the imminent danger of both. To clear
+this boat, our rais ventured to pass ours over a place where the
+foam and fury of the water indicated latent rocks. We hardly dared to
+breathe, but we did not strike here, but half a minute after we were
+fast upon a sand bank. We stayed in this condition for about a quarter
+of an hour, having in view close by us the wreck of a boat lost here.
+With considerable difficulty our boat was disengaged, when we put her
+before the wind and again faced this truly infernal pass. By the force
+of the current, the boat neared a large and furious whirlpool, formed by
+an eddy on the side of the passage. The steersman endeavored, in vain,
+to counteract this drift of the boat by the aid of the rudder. The side
+of the boat approached to within a yard of the white foam which covered
+this dreadful spot. Our rais tore his turban from his head, and lifted
+his clasped hands to Heaven, exclaiming, "We are lost!" The rest of the
+boatmen were screaming to God and the prophet for aid, when, I know not
+how, but by the good Providence that watched over us, the boat cleared
+this peril, and others that beset us in passing yet two more rapids
+almost as dangerous. On passing the last, we found the river divided
+lengthways, by a ridge of rocks and low islands covered with verdure.
+On the right or west side of this ridge, where we were, the view ahead
+presented our side of the river crowded with rocks, which we could not
+pass. The singular ridge already mentioned, presented, however, some
+gaps, which afforded passages into that part of the river that was on
+the other side of this ridge. We passed through what appeared to us
+the safest of these gaps, and soon after found ourselves in smooth but
+shallow water: the river hereabouts being not less than five or six
+miles broad, and spotted with rocks and little green islands and ridges.
+Soon after, a boat ahead grounded, and stuck fast for some time: about
+five minutes after, our boat received a violent shock from a rock under
+water. The rais put the boat under her foresail only, in order that in
+case she struck, it might be with as little force as possible. Shortly
+after, it being about an hour before sunset, the rais put to shore to
+inquire of the people of the country as to the condition of the river
+ahead.
+
+The country we saw this day, on both sides of the river, is a level
+plain; only one hill was visible. The shores, and many of the islands
+we passed to-day, were such as we should have contemplated with greater
+pleasure, if we could have employed our eyes and thoughts upon any thing
+beside the perils by which we were environed. They are fertile, verdant,
+and in many places truly picturesque.
+
+We put to shore this day, as said before, about an hour before sunset.
+When we disembarked, we found ourselves upon a large and beautiful
+island, almost covered with trees of various kinds. The view from this
+island ranges over an immense green plain, bounded only by the horizon,
+and presents a great river winding in several branches through islands
+and shores composed of as fine a soil as any in the world, and covered
+with trees, among which the date tree bore a small proportion. Dongola,
+we were told, was but a few hours distant from this place.
+
+21st of Safa. At sunrise, quitted the land and proceeded up the river,
+which we found very wide and shallow. Its middle was occupied by an
+almost continual range of islands, in my opinion without superior in any
+river whatever.[16] The country bounding the river is a beautiful plain,
+as far as the eye can reach, as fertile as land can be, and covered with
+a great variety of trees, plants, and fields of corn. We sailed on with
+a fair wind till within half an hour of sunset, without coming in sight
+of Dongola. This, after the information we had received yesterday,
+somewhat disappointed us, but we consoled ourselves by observing the
+islands and shores we were passing, comparable to which, in point of
+luxuriant fertility, Egypt itself cannot show. The whole country is
+absolutely overwhelmed with the products of the very rich soil of which
+it consists.
+
+22d of Safa. Quitted the land at an early hour and proceeded up the
+river, in hourly expectation of coming in view of Dongola, which we had
+been given to understand was a considerable town. After sailing with a
+good wind till the middle of the afternoon, without seeing any thing but
+a very fertile country, resembling that we passed yesterday, the people
+on shore, on our landing and demanding whereabouts Dongola was, informed
+us that we were in Dongola, meaning the country so called. On our asking
+where was the city or town of Dongola, they pointed to a large village
+in the distance on the west bank of the river, and told us that village
+was called "New Dongola," and that Old Dongola was farther up the river.
+They informed us that the Pasha had left a guard of twenty-four soldiers
+here, and had proceeded with the army three days' march farther up
+the river, where we should find him. We determined to proceed to his
+encampment. We saw to-day, for the first time, a small sail boat,
+constructed by the people of the country; it was very clumsy, resembling
+a log canoe. The river, in some places which we passed to-day, appeared
+to be about three miles from bank to bank, but shallow; the islands and
+shores presenting the same spectacle of luxuriant vegetation that we saw
+yesterday.
+
+We bought a lamb of three weeks old, this evening, whose mother was as
+tall as a calf of two months old. This species of sheep is hairy, and
+has no wool. The kidneys of this lamb were large enough to cover the
+palm of my hand, though the animal was undoubtedly undiseased.
+
+23d of Safa. Got under way shortly after sunrise, and proceeded up the
+river with a fine wind, which lasted during the day, and carried us
+probably thirty miles on our way. The country through which we passed
+to-day is not so good as that we saw yesterday; the desert comes down to
+the banks of the river in several places. We saw many villages, but for
+the last two days have observed none of those castles so frequent in
+the lower country. About an hour and a half after we quitted the land,
+passed a fortified town on the west bank of the river, which appeared to
+be mostly in ruins. On our landing, at night, we endeavored to purchase
+some provisions, but the people of the country could only spare us some
+milk and vegetables, for which they would not take money, but demanded
+flour. On our consenting to this proposition, they brought us an
+abundance of the articles above mentioned. They informed us that there
+was a town called Dongola, containing about three hundred houses, at
+the distance of two days' sail from this place, and that the Pasha was
+encamped three days' march in advance of Dongola.
+
+24th of Safa. Left the shore this morning shortly after sunrise, and
+proceeded on our voyage. The country we passed through this day was, on
+the west bank of the river, fine, but on the east bank the desert was
+visible at a little distance from the river almost all the day. Passed
+two considerable fortified towns, situated on the left bank of the
+river; they were almost in ruins. An hour before sunset we put to shore
+on the west bank, where we found a fertile and cultivated country. The
+people who occupied it, said that they had settled here a year ago; the
+island they had occupied before having been overflowed by the river, and
+their plantations destroyed.
+
+25th of Safa. This day made but little progress, there having been a
+calm for more than half the day; what country we saw resembled that
+passed yesterday.
+
+26th of Safa. Remained fast by the shore for the whole of this day, the
+wind being ahead. The country on the west bank of the river, where we
+stopped, is fine, but deserted by the inhabitants. Some of the boat's
+company, who went up the country in search of provisions, reported that
+they had seen the ruins of a temple, containing fragments of columns
+of black granite. I determined, in case the wind on the morrow should
+continue unfavorable, to visit this place. They also had met a party of
+fifteen armed men, who informed them that they belonged to this country,
+but had been compelled to quit it, and fly, by the brigands of Shageia,
+who had infested and ravaged the country, but had returned on hearing
+that the Pasha Ismael had defeated and expelled these robbers, and had
+invited every fugitive peasant to return home, giving them assurance of
+future safety and protection. We were alarmed this evening by the report
+of several musket shot, which appeared to come from the other side of
+the river, where, we had been told, still lurked some of the brigands.
+Prepared our arms to be ready in case of attack, but passed the night
+unmolested.
+
+27th of Safa. Early in the morning, quitted the shore with a fair wind,
+and proceeded on our voyage; Dongola being, we were told, but half a
+day's distance from us. The appearance of the country still the same.
+
+28th of Safa. Made but little way today, the wind being light. About the
+middle of the afternoon, put to shore on the east bank of the river,
+as there appeared to be no villages in sight on the other shore, and we
+were in want of provisions. The country we saw to-day is very good, and
+covered with trees, but sparely inhabited.
+
+The country where we landed was, however, tolerably well cultivated by
+the inhabitants of several villages hereabouts. The soil, where it was
+not cultivated, was completely covered with trees, generally of no great
+height, and with bushes and long rank grass. The habitations of many
+of the inhabitants could with difficulty be found; they are frequently
+nothing but a rough arbor formed in the thickets. We had continual
+reason to be surprised, that a country naturally so rich should be so
+thinly populated and so carelessly cultivated. The people, however,
+appeared to be content with raising enough for their subsistence, and
+to desire nothing beyond this. Our money they did not value; they would
+give us nothing for money, but the flour of Egypt readily obtained what
+they could spare.
+
+29th of Safa. At sunrise left the land with a fair and strong wind, and
+proceeded up the river with rapidity. In about two hours passed what
+appeared to be the ruins of a large fortified city, situated on a
+commanding eminence on the east bank of the river. Shortly after, put
+to shore on the west bank of the river, the wind having increased to
+a gale, and the east side towards the city, just mentioned, being
+inaccessible on account of the shoals that lined it. The violence of the
+wind forced the boat aground upon a shallow, at the entrance of a canal
+here, the only one I had seen for a month. After toiling for an hour,
+the boatmen at length succeeded in getting the boat water-borne. About
+an hour after noon the wind abated and the boat proceeded on her way
+under her foresail only. We went at a great rate till an hour before
+sunset, when we put to shore on the east bank of the river. The people
+informed us that we had passed Dongola, and, from their description of
+that place, we were convinced that the city we had seen this morning,
+upon the eminence on the east bank of the river, must have been the
+place we were bound to. The people said that all the boats that preceded
+us had followed the march of the army of the Pasha, who was encamped,
+they reported, at two days' distance from this place. We therefore
+determined to proceed to join him, and not to return to Dongola, where
+it was probable we should only receive directions to proceed to the
+Pasha. The country we saw to-day was not so uniformly fertile as that we
+have passed for several days past. Sand was in some places visible.
+
+1st of Rebi. Made great way to-day, the wind being very strong till
+sunset. We landed at evening on a large and fertile island which was
+well cultivated. I observed here, at a considerable distance from the
+place where we landed, a large and lofty column, situated, as I then
+supposed, on the main land, on the eastern bank of the river.[17] The
+country we passed to-day, for about ten miles on the eastern bank of the
+river, is mostly covered by sand; that on the western bank is beautiful.
+During the whole of the afternoon, however, the country we passed, on
+both banks, can be surpassed by none in the world for fertility; the
+appearance of numerous water-wheels and large plantations of durra
+and cotton, showed us that this fine territory was improved by a
+considerable population. The face of the country continues still
+the same, an immense and fertile plain, bounded by the horizon
+and intersected by the windings of the river Nile. We have seen no
+considerable eminence for many days, except that on which stands the
+old city of Dongola, which we passed yesterday; it is a fine military
+position.
+
+2d of Rebi. The wind to-day was right ahead, owing to the curious fact
+that the river here makes an eccentric bend to the left, toward the
+north-east, and presents itself as coming from that quarter instead of
+from the south or south-west, as usual hitherto.[18] The Rais attempted
+to advance by cordelling the boat; but the force of the wind and current
+prevented the boatmen from gaining more than two or three miles along
+the coast of the island, where we landed yesterday. We were therefore
+obliged to pass a great part of this day and all night by the shore. The
+island is about twenty miles long and very beautiful; it is called, as I
+have been repeatedly informed, "Argo."
+
+3d of Rebi. We were obliged still to continue fast by the shore till
+noon, when the wind abating, the boat advanced about two miles by the
+help of the cordel, so far as to arrive at a small bend in the river,
+which brought the wind a little in our favor, so as to pass by its aid
+to the other side, in the hope, if the wind continued the same on the
+morrow, to profit by it and proceed. We arrived a little before sun set,
+and remained there for the night. We saw this day, while the boat
+was warping slowly along the left bank of the river, the ruins of a
+considerable fortified town, built of stone and encompassed by large
+cemeteries. Some large columns, of a beautiful stone, white intermixed
+red, are to be seen among the ruins. One of the cemeteries is evidently
+ancient, as the tombs are covered with hieroglyphics, intermixed with
+inscriptions. In one of the tombs one of our party found the remains of
+a mummy.
+
+4th of Rebi. Made but little progress to-day, on account of the
+irregularity in the river already mentioned, which makes its course
+hereabouts almost the direct contrary to its natural direction, and
+brings, in consequence, the prevalent winds ahead. Passed some small,
+but fine islands, and saw, for the first time for several days, stone
+mountains in the distance: the shores of the river hereabouts are
+fertile, but thinly inhabited. Saw several large villages in ruins.
+
+5th of Rebi. The wind and the untoward direction of the river obliged us
+again to employ the cordel to forward the boat a few miles more on her
+way. By the middle of the afternoon we had arrived at a place on the
+left [19] bank of the river that had been, a few days ago, the scene of a
+battle between the Pasha and the brigands of Shageia. We found there a
+strong and well built castle at the farther extremity of a high and
+long mountain, running nearly at right angles with the river, and which
+approached to within a few hundred yards of its bank; thus furnishing
+a fine position to the enemy. The castle was taken by the aid of the
+Pasha's artillery, and his cavalry rode through and dispersed all who
+fought outside of it.[20] This castle was astonishingly welt arranged in
+its interior, and was thereby rendered very comfortable quarters for
+a considerable garrison. The country, in the vicinity, contains many
+villages, and was covered with plantations of durra beans and fields of
+cotton. These villages had been ransacked, and in part destroyed, by
+the victorious troops, as the inhabitants, instead of coming in to the
+Pasha, as did the people of the lower countries, had taken up arms and
+sided with the brigands who lorded it over the country. We learned,
+however, that they did this much against their will, being compelled
+thereto by their marauding masters. I was informed today that some
+English travelers were in one of the boats ahead. I determined, in case
+the wind should continue unfavorable tomorrow, to walk up the river and
+pay them a visit.
+
+6th of Rebi. Set out very early in the morning, it being dead calm, and
+the boat in consequence unable to proceed, except by the cordel, to see
+the strangers, and to be informed of their accommodations, as I feared
+that they too were obliged to participate in the privations to which we
+were all exposed. After about two hours walk at length came up with the
+boat, on board of which these gentlemen were. They informed me that they
+had set out from Cairo a few days after we had quitted Bulac. They were
+suffering privations, as were all in the boats, and I regretted that
+my being in similar circumstances put it out of my power to ameliorate
+their situation. As, however, we had now learned to a certainty, that
+the camp of the Pasha was not far distant, it was in my power to assure
+them that they would be better off in a day or two.[21] All the way to
+their boat, and on my return to ours, I observed some hundreds of bodies
+of men and animals that had perished in the late engagement and during
+the pursuit, and the stench which filled the air was almost intolerable.
+The country, covered with an abundance of grain almost matured,
+was abandoned; the water-wheels stood still, and the cisterns were
+frequently infected by a bloody and putrefying carcass.
+
+7th of Rebi. Passed the last night on board the boat, near the mountain
+already mentioned in the day before yesterday's journal. Two Greeks on
+board of our boat reported last evening, that they had heard menacing
+cries from the mountain. The people on board of the boat supposed that
+some of the brigands had returned to their haunt and meditated an attack
+on our boat by night. We were accordingly on the watch till morning,
+without, however, being molested. This morning, about two hours after
+sunrise, these same Greeks reported that they had seen fifteen or
+sixteen of the robbers in a body, and armed. They also told the Mogrebin
+soldiers in the other boats, which had now come up with ours, that these
+men had probably massacred one of the soldiers attached to me and two of
+my servants, as they had not been seen since morning. I accordingly
+set out, in company with twenty soldiers, in pursuit of the supposed
+assassins. We had not proceeded far when we met the persons supposed
+killed, on their way to our boat, safe and sound. They had seen no
+armed men, though they came from the direction that the Greeks said the
+robbers had taken. I therefore returned to the boat, reflecting upon
+the old proverb, "A Greek and a liar." The Mogrebin soldiers were not,
+however, convinced of the falsehood of the report, and pursued their way
+to the mountain; they found no robbers there, but repaid themselves for
+the trouble they had taken, by taking possession of a young and
+pretty girl, which they carried to their boat as a lawful prize. After
+proceeding a few miles by the aid of the cordel, we put to land at
+sunset, near a village on the left bank of the river. We found here
+the ruins of a Christian church, built in the style of the lower Greek
+empire, of which one column, of red granite, of no great height, was
+standing, (it bore on its chapiter a cross and a star,) and was all that
+stood on its base; others, fallen and broken, were lying near it. The
+soldiers found in the villages near us several hundred women and about
+two hundred men; they were peasants who had taken refuge here during the
+battle between the brigands and the troops of the Pasha. The soldiers
+were disposed to treat them as enemies, but they were saved from their
+fury by showing a paper given them by the Pasha, assuring them of
+protection. It is the rule to give these papers to every village not
+hostile, to protect them from the soldiers. We remained here all
+night. The country of Shageia, possessed by the brigands, was the best
+cultivated we had seen this side of Assuan; the water-wheels, so far
+as we have passed their country, being frequently within half a stone's
+throw of each other. They obliged the peasants to work hard to raise
+food and forage to ml the magazines of their castles, which are seen
+here and there all over this country.
+
+8th of Rebi. The wind and the direction of the river continuing the
+same, we were obliged to advance by the cordel. The country continued
+fine and well cultivated, and we passed several large and beautiful
+islands. In walking along the shore, saw at a distance a large castle,
+lately occupied by the brigands; on visiting it, found it capable of
+accommodating at least a thousand men. The walls and towers very thick
+and pierced with loopholes: it had been taken by the aid of the Pasha's
+artillery, and almost every thing combustible in it had been burned by
+the troops. A few miles beyond this the boat stopped for the night.
+
+9th of Rebi. Heard this morning at day-light, with great pleasure, the
+report of three cannon, which indicated the proximity of the camp. We
+proceeded slowly by the cordel, the river obstinate in maintaining the
+same untoward direction, and the wind consequently adverse. The country
+we saw to-day, like that we have passed for the last two days, gave us
+continual occasion of surprise. It was better cultivated than any part
+of the countries south of Egypt that we had seen. It was crowded with
+villages and covered with grain, deserted by its proprietors. In the
+afternoon, however, the disagreeable impression produced by seeing
+so fine a country without inhabitants was almost obliterated by
+the pleasure I felt on being informed that a large number of its
+cultivators, with their wives and children, were on their return to
+their fields and houses, provided with an escort from the camp, and a
+firman from the Pasha Ismael, securing them from outrage, and
+assuring them of protection. I am sorry to be obliged to say, that the
+inhabitants of this unfortunate district had great occasion for this
+protection. The soldiers in the boats were disposed to take liberties
+with the inhabitants, on the plea of their being the allies of
+the brigands. This morning, two men belonging to a village in this
+neighborhood, were severely beaten, and their wives or sisters violated
+by some soldiers belonging to the boats. This afternoon, a soldier
+belonging to our boat, accompanied by one of the Greeks already
+mentioned, and the Frank cook of the Proto Medico went to the same
+village, without my knowledge, to participate in this licentious
+amusement. They were somewhat surprised and terribly frightened on their
+arrival at this village, on finding themselves suddenly surrounded by
+about two hundred peasants armed with clubs, who fiercely demanded what
+they wanted, asking them if they had come, as others had before them
+to-day, to cudgel the men and violate the women, and ordered them to be
+off immediately to the boats. The luckless fornicators, confounded by
+this unexpected reception, were heartily glad to be allowed to sneak
+back to the boat in confusion and terror. On their arrival, and this
+affair becoming known to me, I abused them with all the eloquence I
+could muster, first, for their villainy, and then for their cowardice,
+as they were well armed, and had fled before the face of cudgels.
+When we stopped at night, we were told that we were about three hours
+distance from the camp.
+
+10th of Rebi. The river and the wind still obliged us to proceed slowly
+by the cordel. The country we passed to-day was fine, and had been
+cultivated with great care, but deserted. The face of the fields was
+almost covered with the household furniture of the villagers. Straw
+mats, equal to any sold at Cairo, were abandoned by hundreds on the
+spots where they had been employed for the night by the troops, when on
+the pursuit after the brigands who had fled from the last battle. Many
+of the largest of these mats the soldiers had formed into square huts
+for the different guards. The abandoned harvests waved solitary in
+the wind, and the numerous water-wheels were all motionless. We
+passed several large castles, not many days back garrisoned by fierce
+marauders, who claimed all around them, or within the reach of their
+horses' feet, as theirs; and many well built villages, whose inhabitants
+were the slaves of their will. In one of these deserted castles, we
+found fragments of vessels of porcelain, basins of marble, chests of
+polished Indian wood, the pillage probably of some caravan, and a small
+brass cannon. The walls of the apartments were hung with large and
+colored straw mats, of fine workmanship, and showed many indications of
+the pains taken to make them comfortable and convenient. An hour after
+noon, we met great numbers of men, women, and children, accompanied by
+their herds and flocks, who were returning to this abandoned country,
+by the encouragement and under the protection of the Pasha. It was
+an affecting sight to see almost every one of these unfortunate women
+carrying her naked and forlorn children either upon her shoulders or
+in her arms, or leading them by the hand. The pleasure I felt at seeing
+these proofs of the humanity of the Pasha Ismael was diminished by
+seeing his safe-conduct disregarded by some of the Mogrebin soldiers,
+and particularly by the Greek and Frank domestics of the Proto Medico
+Bosari, who seized from the hands of these miserable creatures as many
+sheep and goats as they thought they had occasion for. About an hour
+before sunset, we passed the encampment of Abdin Cacheff, on the right
+or opposite bank of the river; and at night-fall came in view of that of
+the Pasha about three miles farther up on the same side. We stopped to
+pass the night, as the boatmen were too much fatigued to draw the boat
+any farther to-day.
+
+11th of Rebi. The direction of the river and the wind still the same.
+Proceeded slowly by the cordel till about two hours after noon, when we
+arrived at the camp of the Hasnardar on the left bank of the river;
+that of the Pasha was on the opposite side. Not far from the camp of the
+Hasnardar, some ruins and several small pyramids attracted my attention.
+As I could not go to the Pasha before to-morrow, I determined to employ
+the remainder of the day in a visit to these antiquities, which lay near
+a large high and isolated rock, about a mile distant from the river. I
+found before this rock the ruins of a very large temple, which covered
+a great space of ground. Some columns, almost consumed by time, were
+standing nearly buried in the rubbish. The bases of others were visible,
+which, from their position, evidently once supported an avenue of
+pillars leading to an excavation in the great rock aforementioned,
+against and joining on to the side of which, that fronted towards the
+river, this temple appeared to have been constructed. Among the ruins
+saw two large lions of red granite, one broken, and the other little
+injured, and a small headless statue, about two feet high, in a sitting
+posture. On approaching the front of the rock, found it excavated into
+a small temple, whose interior was sculptured with the usual figures and
+symbols seen in the temples of ancient Egypt. Its roof, and that of the
+porch before it, exhibited several traces of the azure with which it had
+been painted. The porch before this excavation was supported by Caryatid
+figures, representing huge lions standing nearly erect upon their hinder
+legs. The ruins before the rock seemed to me to have originally composed
+a large temple, of which this excavation was the inner sanctuary. The
+pyramids were close by these ruins. I counted seventeen, some of them in
+ruins, and others perfect. Those which were uninjured were small, of a
+height greater than the breadth of the base, which was generally about
+twenty feet square; the sides resembled steep stairs. They were however
+compactly and very handsomely constructed of hewn stones, similar to the
+rock before mentioned, and probably taken from it. Before some of these
+pyramids, and attached to one of their sides, we found low buildings,
+resembling small temples, and, judging from the interior of one we found
+open, intended as such, as the inside of this one was covered with the
+usual hieroglyphics and figures. It would be a work of little difficulty
+to open the pyramid to which was attached the little temple I entered,
+as the figure of a door of stone in the pyramid is to be seen, when
+inside of the temple, attached to its side. In view from this place,
+many other pyramids were in view higher up the river, on the opposite
+bank, one of them large. The people of the country called the place I
+visited, "Meroe" as likewise the whole territory where these ruins
+are found. The ruins I have mentioned do not appear ever to have been
+disturbed. I doubt not that several remains worth research lie concealed
+under the rubbish, which here covers a great space of ground. No other
+remains of antiquity are visible in this place besides those I have
+mentioned. The immediate spot where they stand, and its vicinity
+backward from the river, is covered by the sand of the Desert,
+underneath which probably many more lie concealed.
+
+The river Nile has been represented, and I think with justice, as one
+of the wonders of the world. I do not consider it as meriting this
+appellation so much on account of its periodical and regular floods, in
+which respect it is resembled by several other rivers, as on account
+of another circumstance, in which, so far as I know, it is without a
+parallel.
+
+The Nile resembles the path of a good man in a wicked and worthless
+world. It runs through a desert--a dry, barren, hideous desert; on the
+parts of which adjoining its course it has deposited the richest soil in
+the world, which it continually waters and nourishes. This soil has
+been the source of subsistence to several powerful nations who have
+established and overthrown mighty kingdoms, and have originated the
+arts, the religion, the learning and the civilization of the greater
+part of the ancient world. These nations, instructors and pupils, have
+perished; but the remains of their stupendous labors, the pyramids and
+the temples of Egypt, Nubia, and in the countries now visited for the
+first time, at least for many ages, by minds capable of appreciating
+the peoples who erected them, are more than sufficient to excite
+astonishment and respect for the nations who founded them. The few in
+stances that I have mentioned are such as have presented themselves to
+my notice in sailing up the river, without my having the opportunity to
+scrutinize them particularly, or time or means to pursue any researches
+in the vicinity of those I have seen, by which doubtless many more would
+be discovered. Some future traveler in these interesting and remote
+regions, who may have the power and the means to traverse at his leisure
+the banks and islands I have seen and admired, will, I believe, find
+his labors rewarded by discoveries which will interest the learned, and
+gratify the curious.
+
+A voyage up the Nile may be considered as presenting an epitome of the
+moral history of man. We meet at almost every stage with the monuments
+of his superstition, his tyranny, or his luxury; but with few memorials
+of his ingenuity directed with a view to real utility. We also every
+where behold the traces of the vengeance of Almighty Justice upon his
+crimes. Everywhere on the banks of the ancient river we behold
+cities, once famous for power and luxury, a desolation, and dry like a
+wilderness; and temples once famous, and colossal idols once feared, now
+prostrate and confounded with the dust of their worshippers. "The flocks
+lie down in the midst thereof: the cormorant and bittern lodge in the
+temples and palaces. Their voice sings in the windows, and desolation is
+in the thresholds."
+
+The peoples who now occupy the territories of nations extinct or
+exterminated have profited neither by their history nor their fate. What
+was once a land occupied by nations superstitious and sensual is now
+inhabited by robbers and slaves. The robbers have been expelled or
+slain, and the oppressed peasant is emancipated by the arms of the
+nation who avenged the cause of Heaven upon the degenerate Greeks, but
+who nevertheless have derived neither instruction nor warning from their
+downfall and subjugation. The Nile meantime, which has seen so many
+nations and generations rise and disappear, still flows and overflows,
+to distribute its fertilizing waters to the countries on its borders:
+like the Good Providence, which seems unwearied in trying to overcome
+the ingratitude of Man by the favors of Heaven.
+
+On my arrival at the camp, I was informed of the particulars of the
+progress of the victorious son of the distinguished Meheromet Ali from
+Wady Haifa to Meroe. Before his march every thing had submitted or
+fallen. All attempts to arrest his progress had proved as unavailing as
+the obstacles opposed by the savage rocks of the Cataracts of the Nile
+to the powerful course of that beneficent and fertilizing river.
+
+His Excellence, as said before, set out from Wady Haifa on the 26th of
+Zilhadge last. In ten days of forced march he arrived at New Dongola. A
+little beyond this village, the Selictar, at the head of a detachment of
+about four hundred men, surprised and dispersed about fifteen hundred
+of the enemy, taking many of their horses and camels. Four days' march
+beyond New Dongola, the Pasha, at the head of the advance guard of
+the army, came up with the main body of the Shageias and their allies,
+strongly posted on the side of a mountain near a village called Courty,
+on the westerly bank of the river. The Pasha at this juncture had
+with him but six hundred cavalry and some of the Abbadies mounted on
+dromedaries, of whom we had about five hundred with the army, but none
+of his cannon. The enemy advanced to the combat with loud screams and
+cries, and with great fury. The Abbadies could not withstand their
+charge, and were driven rearward. At this critical instant, his
+Excellence gave the order, and the cavalry of the Pasha charged and
+poured in the fire of their carabines and pistols. After a conflict of
+no long duration, the cavalry of the enemy fled in dismay, while those
+who fought on foot fell on their faces, throwing their shields over
+their heads to secure them from the tramp of the cavalry, and implored
+mercy.
+
+In consequence of the result of this affair, all the country between the
+place of combat and Shageia, i.e. the country occupied by the castles
+and immediate subjects of the Maleks of Shageia, submitted and were
+pardoned. The Pasha pursued his march to the province of Shageia, where
+Malek Shouus, the principal among the Shageia chiefs, had collected the
+whole force of the republic of the brigands with a determination to risk
+another battle. The Pasha found, on his arrival, a part of their force
+posted on an island near the long mountain I have mentioned in my
+journal as having been the scene of a combat a few day? before I reached
+it. Those of the enemy who were in the island were forthwith attacked by
+troops sent over in the boats which accompanied the army, and were cut
+to pieces or driven into the river. The army then advanced to attack the
+great mass of the enemy in their position on the mountain. It was a
+very advantageous one. The mountain runs nearly at right angles with the
+river, which it nearly reaches, leaving between itself and the river a
+tract of ground about a quarter of a mile in width, which at the time
+was covered with plantations of durra. The enemy were posted on the
+side of this mountain and among the durra in the open ground between the
+mountain and the river; so that their rear was secured by the mountain,
+and their right covered by a strong castle at the foot of its extremity
+lying off from the river. Malek Shouus, Malek Zibarra, and the other
+chiefs of Shageia, and their immediate followers, composed the cavalry
+of the enemy. They had assembled, either by force or persuasion, all
+the peasantry subject to their dominion, the whole forming a mass
+which blackened the whole side of the mountain. Their arms consisted
+of lances, shields and long broad swords double-edged. These wretched
+peasants, who were all on foot, their masters posted in front in order
+to receive and exhaust the fire of the Pasha's troops; while Shouus and
+the cavalry occupied the rear in order to keep the peasants to their
+posts, and to have the start of the Pasha's cavalry in case they
+should find it necessary to take to flight. The Pasha posted his troops
+parallel to the enemy, placing the greater part of the cavalry opposite
+the open ground between the mountain and the river, and pushing the
+artillery a little in advance. The enemy with loud cries and uplifted
+lances rushed forward. Some of the peasants in advance of the others,
+with no other arms than lances and shields, threw themselves upon the
+cannon and were blown to pieces.[22] The castle on the right of the
+enemy was stormed. After feeling the effects of a few rounds from the
+artillery, which dashed horse and man to pieces, the cavalry of the
+enemy fled in dismay, leaving their infantry to be rode over and shot
+down [23] by our cavalry, who destroyed many hundreds of them in the
+battle and during the pursuit. Malek Shouus and his cavalry did not
+discontinue their flight till they reached the territory of Shendi,
+leaving their numerous and strong castles, their dependant villages, and
+a rich and beautiful country, in the hands of the conqueror.[24]
+
+On the 12th of Rebi, I passed over to the camp of the Pasha. I did not
+however obtain an audience of his Excellence till two days after, when,
+being alone, he sent for me, and received me in the most nattering
+manner, ordering me as usual to sit in his presence. After the usual
+compliments, I informed his Excellence that I had been much mortified
+and distressed, that the act of God, in depriving me of the use of my
+eyes a few days before his Excellence left Wady Halfa, had prevented
+me from accompanying his victorious march, and participating in the
+exploits of his troops; so that I had not arrived till there was nothing
+left to do. His Excellence replied that a "great deal more remained to
+be done, in which I should have a share." I replied with a compliment,
+and then demanded horses and camels for myself, and the soldiers I
+had brought with me; he replied "that I should have them." After some
+further conversation, of a confidential nature, I retired. During the
+nine days following, I had reason to applaud the humanity and good
+policy of the Pasha, in offering amnesty and peace to all the brigands
+who should come in and surrender themselves. Several of their chiefs,
+whom they call "Maleks" accompanied by their followers, came in while
+the camp remained near Meroe. The chiefs were presented with costly
+habiliments, and the written protection of his Excellence, recognizing
+them as under his safeguard; and returned with their followers to
+their homes, tranquillized and contented. The most rigid discipline
+was observed in the camp, to prevent the people of the country from
+suffering by the presence of the army. Some soldiers and domestics were
+severely beaten for taking sheep and goats without paying for them,
+and five of the Abbadies (or auxiliaries mounted on dromedaries) were
+impaled for having seized some camels from the peasants. It was truly
+honorable to the army and its commander to see villages embosomed in a
+camp, whose inhabitants, men, women and children, pursued their usual
+occupations, without molestation and without fear. In the country below,
+which had been the scene of combat, the fields were deserted, and for
+several days I had not seen a peasant at work upon the ground. In
+the vicinity of the camp of the Pasha, where the people had submitted
+themselves, the discordant creak of the water-wheels frequently
+attracted the ear, and the peasants cultivated their fields within
+musket shot of the camp of a conqueror.
+
+On the 21st of Rebi, a detachment, consisting of three hundred cavalry,
+departed from the camp for the country of the Berbers, to secure its
+submission and to obtain horses and camels for the army. Learning that
+it was the intention of the Pasha to march in a few days, to pitch his
+camp about eight hours march farther up the river, I wished to ascertain
+whether I could have the horses and camels I needed before the Pasha
+marched. His reply to my demand was, that he had no camels, at present,
+that were not appropriated to some service or other, but that, as soon
+as he had them, I should receive what I needed. I was consequently
+obliged to embark in a boat to accompany the march of the camp as,
+without camels to carry my tent and baggage, I could not accompany it by
+land. On the 25th, all the boats followed the departure of the
+troops; the wind was ahead, and the direction of the river the same as
+repeatedly before mentioned. We proceeded slowly by the cordel. This
+circumstance gave me an opportunity of visiting the Pyramids which I
+have mentioned as in view from Meroe. They stand about half a mile from
+the right hand bank of the river. I counted twenty-seven, none of them
+perfect, and most of them in ruins; the greater part of them are built
+of stone, and are evidently much more ancient than those of Meroe.
+
+The largest is probably more than a hundred feet square, and something
+more in height. It presents a singularity in its construction worthy
+of notice. It is a pyramid within a pyramid; i.e. the inner pyramid has
+been cased over by a larger one; one of its sides being in ruins makes
+this peculiarity visible. By climbing up the ruined side, it is easy
+to reach its summit. No remains of a city or any traces of temples are
+visible in the immediate vicinity of this place, which is called by the
+natives "Turboot."
+
+On the 23d we came in view of the lower end of the rapids of the Third
+Cataract; those hereabouts are called "the rapids of Oula" We were
+obliged to consume thirty-nine days in getting as far as the island of
+Kendi, (which is not above fifty miles from Meroe.) As the direction of
+the river continued almost the same, coming from about the north-east,
+and the wind being almost invariably ahead, the difficulties attending
+advancing the boats by the cordel were very great, as the river here
+is spotted by an infinity of islands and rocks. In some of the passages
+where the water was deep, the current was as swift as a mill-sluice,
+which made it necessary to employ the crews of perhaps twenty boats
+to drag up one at a time. In other passages, where the water was very
+shallow, it was sometimes necessary to drag the boats by main force over
+the stones at the bottom. The camp of the Pasha remained during all
+this time about eight hours march above Meroe, on the right bank of the
+river, waiting till the boats should have passed the rapids. No military
+movements took place, except detaching the Divan Effendi with four
+hundred cavalry, to join the detachment already in Berber, where all was
+quiet and friendly. The country on the rapids of the Third Cataract is
+sterile, being composed, for the most part, of black granite and sand,
+excepting some of the islands, which contained good ground, and a few
+spots on the shores, where the floods of the river had deposited some
+fertile soil. The rocks by the shore presented indications which proved
+that the river had risen in some of its floods about twenty feet above
+its present level. Ostriches are not unfrequently seen hereabouts. We
+have met with no ruins of any ancient building of consequence on these
+rapids, except the ruins of a strong fort on the right bank of the
+river, and those of what was probably a Christian Monastery on the bank
+right opposite. This place, I was told, is called "Kennis;" it is
+about thirty miles above Meroe.[25] We passed one small island, which the
+natives said was called also Meroe, as well as the site where we found
+the pyramids and temple below. No indications of a considerable city are
+however to be found on this island, which is beside too small to have
+served for the emplacement of a city of consequence. Khalil Aga, who
+swam over to this island, reported that he had seen there the ruins of
+brick houses, and many fragments of porcelain; of the latter there
+are immense quantities among all the ruined edifices found in this
+country.[26] The island of "Kendi" is large, and in some parts cultivated;
+it contains evident traces of brick buildings, among which we found
+fragments of ancient pottery and porcelain, but no ruins of any
+considerable building.
+
+We stayed for three days as high up as the middle of the island of
+Kendi. On the 6th of Jamisalawal the boats received orders to descend to
+the lower end of the island, in order to take the passage on its right
+hand side, that on the left being so shallow as not to be passed but
+with great difficulty. We descended accordingly, and remained at
+its lower extremity till the thirteenth of the moon, which delay was
+occasioned by the absence of the Rais Bashi, who had gone up to examine
+and sound the passages through the remainder of the Third Cataract. On
+the thirteenth, our boat and many others passed over to the right bank
+of the river, in order to be on the same side as was the camp of the
+Pasha,[27] and to have free communication with it.
+
+The same day I received an order from the Pasha to come to the camp with
+my baggage. I went accordingly and presented myself to his Excellency,
+and demanded to know his pleasure. He replied, that it was his will that
+I should stay in the camp, and that he would immediately furnish me with
+the means of accompanying him in his intended march to Berber over the
+Desert. Five days after, his Excellency broke up his camp, and proceeded
+about four leagues higher up the rapids, where the boats were found
+stopped by the impossibility of proceeding any farther, as the water
+was found to be too low to admit their passing. I arrived at this place
+(opposite the upper end of the island of Kendi) on the same day with his
+Excellency, having left orders to my domestics to follow with my camels
+and baggage. The next morning, finding that they had not arrived, and
+learning that it was the intention of the Pasha to commence his march to
+Berber that day, I mounted my horse to go and ascertain the reason why
+my camels had not arrived. I learned, as I proceeded, that one of them
+had fallen under his load, and that it would be necessary to send back
+the first that should arrive and be unloaded, to take the burden of the
+other. All my effects, inconsequence, did not arrive before evening.
+During my absence to see after this vexatious affair, the Pasha had
+departed with the camp, as I learned the same evening on my return.
+After leaving the most bulky part of my baggage in one of the boats, I
+proceeded on the 21st to the place where the Pasha's last camp had been,
+to join some party who should have been delayed by circumstances similar
+to my misadventure. On my arrival I found the Hasna Katib, and about
+three hundred soldiers, waiting till camels should come from Berber
+to carry them to join the Pasha. There were, besides, seven hundred
+Mogrebin infantry in the boats, awaiting the means of transporting their
+tents and baggage across the Desert. On my representing to the Hasna
+Katib the circumstance that had delayed me, he informed me that the
+Selictar was expected from below in a few days, who, on the day after
+his arrival, would proceed after the Pasha, and that I had better
+accompany him. I accepted the advice, and pitched my tent to await the
+arrival of the Selictar. The same day I was informed that all the large
+boats had received orders to abandon the attempt to pass the remainder
+of the third cataract of the Nile. They had already, with great
+difficulty, got through about fifty difficult passages, and it was
+reported that there were nearly one hundred more ahead before the third
+cataract could be got clear of. When the river is full, and the
+flood, of course, strong, this cataract must, in my opinion, be almost
+impassable upwards, as, on account of the strange direction of the
+river, little or no aid can be derived from the wind, and the current in
+some places, from the straitness of the passages between the rocks and
+islands, must, in the time of the inundation, be very furious, while
+the cordel, from the natural obstacles which cover the shore of this
+cataract, could hardly overcome the difficulties which every mile or two
+would present.[28]
+
+On the first day of the moon Jamisalachar, the Selictar arrived from
+below, where he had been to collect durra for the army. Two days after
+I set forward in company with him to pass the Desert. The road for two
+days lay near the bank of the river. By the middle of the afternoon of
+the first day we arrived at a pleasant spot on the border of the Nile,
+where we encamped to pass the night. On the morning following we mounted
+our horses at sunrise, and by mid-day arrived at a fine pond of water at
+the foot of a high rock, at no great distance from the river, where we
+refreshed ourselves and filled the water-skins, as at this place the
+roads turns into the Desert. We marched from the middle of the afternoon
+till an hour after midnight, when we halted to sleep. The road for this
+day was evidently the dry bed of an arm of the Nile, which, during the
+inundation, is full of water. Even at this season the doum tree and the
+acacia, which grew on its borders, were green, and coarse long grass was
+abundant. At sunrise of the sixth day of the moon we again mounted,
+and set forward in a direction nearly East. Our way lay over low
+rocky hills, gravelly or sandy plains, and sometimes through valleys
+containing plenty of coarse grass and acacia trees; but no water is
+to be found above ground at this season, though it probably might be
+obtained by sinking wells in some of these valleys. We halted at noon,
+and in two hours after again mounted, and marched till midnight. Our
+road lay through a country resembling that we had passed the day before.
+On the morrow morning, a little after day-light, we proceeded on our
+journey, and at noon halted at the only well of water we found on our
+route. It lies near two high hills of black granite. The water was
+yellow and dirty, and was almost rejected by the thirsty camels. By the
+middle of the afternoon we were again on horseback, and marched till
+midnight, when some of the camels dropping and dying, and others giving
+out, the Selictar found himself obliged to order a halt for the rest of
+the night. It was his intention to have marched till morning, by which
+time our guides told us that we should arrive at the river. We threw
+ourselves on the ground to sleep a few hours, but by sunrise we were
+called to mount and away. We proceeded till about noon, when we came
+in view of the beneficent river, whose beauty and value cannot be duly
+appreciated by any who have not voyaged in the deserts through which it
+holds its course. It was on the eighth of the moon when we arrived on
+its borders. I had expected that our toilsome forced march would end
+here, and had promised myself some repose, which I greatly needed, as
+I had suffered much from the heat of the sun, which had burned the skin
+off my face;--from fatigue and want of sleep;--from hunger, as we had
+barely time to prepare a little rice and bread once in twenty-four
+hours;--and from the exasperation of my ophthalmia, which had never
+entirely quitted me since I was attacked by it at Wady Halfa, on the
+second cataract. The Selictar, however, did not indulge us with more
+than half a day's and one night's repose on the bank of the river, which
+we found well cultivated by the inhabitants of numerous villages in
+sight. On the morning of the ninth day of the moon, we were again called
+to proceed. For this day our march lay near the bank of the river, and
+through and by fine fields of barley, cotton, and wheat. The day after,
+our route lay over a narrow space of rocky land, lying between the river
+and the hills of the desert. We saw this day but a few cultivated spots.
+On the 11th we commenced our march before sunrise, animated by the
+information that we should be at the Pasha's camp by noon or the middle
+of the afternoon. Our road lay this day on the edge of the Desert, just
+where it touches the cultivable soil deposited by the Nile, which is
+indicative of the point to which the inundations of the river extend
+in this country. On both sides of tills road was an almost continued
+succession of villages, which are built here in order to be out of the
+reach of the overflowing of the river, which almost every year here
+overspreads the country for one or two miles from its banks. The land
+liable to this inundation is in part cultivated as well as any portion
+of Egypt, and in part devoted to feeding great numbers of fine horses,
+camels, dromedaries, kine, sheep, and goats, with which the country of
+the Berbers is abundantly stocked.
+
+We marched on till nearly set of sun, without halting, when we arrived
+at the encampment of the Pasha; it was on our side [i.e. the west side]
+of the Nile, which here runs in its natural direction from south to
+north. At five or six days march below it, it turns to the left, and
+describes, from above its turning point and Dongola, a track something
+resembling the following figure--which is the reason why, in coming up
+the river from Dongola, we found it running from the north-east. The
+length of this curious bend in the river Nile, never known to the
+civilized world before the expedition of Ismael Pasha, may be about
+two hundred and fifty miles long, the greater part of it all rocks and
+rapids.
+
+The journey from our last encampment on the third cataract to the
+country of the Berbers, following the direction of the river, takes
+eight days of forced marches, but that by the desert, i.e. across the
+peninsula formed by the course of the river between the country of the
+Berbers and our last encampment, takes four days forced march.
+
+The road from the place where we arrived at the river (in coming from
+the desert) up the country of Berber, lies generally on the edge of the
+desert, and outside of the fertile land lying between the river and
+the desert; of consequence we were rarely led to its banks so as to
+ascertain its course and appearance. But from several points where the
+road approaches the river, I observed that it winded continually and
+contained many beautiful islands, some of them, particularly that named
+"Sibne," cultivated like gardens. I also observed that the river, at the
+lower extremity of the country of the Berbers, is much interrupted by
+rocks, and I have learned, since my arrival, that between the third
+cataract and the camp, the water is so low at this season that the
+Canja of the Pasha (probably the first boat that ever passed the third
+cataract of the Nile) was obliged to be lifted three times over shallow
+passages.
+
+The natives of this country had never seen a sail boat before the
+arrival of this Canja. They called it "a water mare" comparing it, by
+this appellation, to the swiftest animal with which they are acquainted.
+They ran in, crowds to the river's edge to see it mount the current
+without the aid of oars.
+
+On the 13th, I had a private audience of the Pasha in the evening.
+His Excellence received me as usual, and on my informing him of the
+circumstance which had prevented my accompanying his march from the
+cataract, he assured me that he would give orders, that, for the future,
+I should be furnished from the best of his own camels. I preferred to
+his Excellence some requests, which he granted immediately, and on my
+retiring, requested me to present myself to him frequently.
+
+Previous to his march from the third cataract, there had arrived at
+the camp ambassadors from Shendi, from Malek Shouus, the chief of the
+fugitive Shageians, demanding terms of peace. The Pasha replied, that
+"the only terms on which they could obtain peace with him, would be by
+the surrender of their horses and arms, and returning to their country
+to live tranquilly, and without disturbing their neighbors." The
+ambassadors replied, that "they would not give up their horses and
+arms." The Pasha then answered, that "then he would come to Shendi and
+take them." To which it is said they answered, "Come."[29] On hearing,
+however, of the rapid march of the Pasha, and of his arrival in Berber,
+the chief of Shendi, on whose support it seems Shouus had calculated,
+was frightened, and sent his son, bearing some valuable presents, to the
+Pasha, to notify his submission, and to receive his orders. The terror
+and confusion this step, on the part of one of the most powerful allies
+of Sennaar, will occasion to the latter, will probably prevent the
+necessity of a battle to ensure its submission. A part of the remnant of
+the once powerful Mamalukes of Egypt, who had fled before the Pasha to
+Shendi,[30] on his arrival in Berber have surrendered themselves to the
+protection of the Pasha Ismael. They have been treated by him with great
+kindness, and were presented with a thousand piasters each, to bear
+their expenses to Cairo, to which place they have departed, with the
+assurance of passing the remainder of their lives in tranquility in
+Egypt, under the protection and favor of Mehemmed Ali. They had gone
+from the camp before my arrival. I was informed that these Mamalukes
+were in possession of many slaves and fine horses, which will turn to
+good account in Egypt. A small remnant of the Mamalukes at Shendi, under
+the direction of a refractory Bey, have fled to the countries on the
+Bahar el Abiud, where they will probably perish miserably. The Divan
+Effendi, who has been sent to Shendi to arrange the terms of peace
+with the Malek of that country, had orders to assure this Bey and his
+followers there, of the same favor and protection already accorded to
+their comrades, who had already departed for Egypt, but without success.
+It is not to be doubted, however, that the remnant of the once powerful
+Mamalukes, who have surrendered themselves to the compassion and
+protection of the Viceroy, will receive both from him; whose humanity
+has been interested in their behalf since their power is gone, and their
+number reduced to a few individuals, who, doubtless, will be happy to
+live tranquilly in the country these unfortunate fugitives continually
+sigh after, and whose sovereignty they have lost by their own
+misconduct.[31]
+
+17th. I passed over in the canja of the Pasha, to the east side of the
+river, to visit the capital of Berber, which is nearly opposite to our
+camp. On reaching the bank, it is a walk of half an hour through immense
+fields of durra, to come to the road that leads to the residence of the
+chief.
+
+After quitting the plantations, I came to a collection of villages,
+extending about three miles down the river. Among these villages is one
+called "Goos" which is marked in the maps as the capital of Berber; but
+the residence of the Malek,[32] or chief of the eastern shore, is not at
+Goos, but at another of the collection, much larger, called Nousreddin,
+as I was informed, after the name of the present Malek, who resides
+there. The houses of these villages, like the rest in the country of
+Berber, are built of clay, and roofed with unhewn timber, covered with
+trusses of straw; that of the Malek is like those of his people, only
+larger. The western shore is governed by another Malek, whose village
+lies higher up the river than the emplacement of our camp. The
+population of Nousreddin, and the villages adjoining, is considerable.
+The country is fertile and well cultivated, and abounds in durra,
+cotton, barley, fine horses, camels, dromedaries, kine, sheep, goats and
+fowls, as does all the country of Berber. I found in these villages some
+caravan merchants, who at present had nothing to sell but coarse cotton
+cloths. These cotton cloths form the only clothing of the inhabitants;
+both men and women wear them, wrapped round their middle, with one end
+thrown over the shoulder or head.[33] The Berber, though resembling the
+fellah of Upper Egypt in complexion, is generally not so well formed
+in figure and feature. Many of them have defective teeth, probably
+occasioned by the habit of chewing bad tobacco, (of which they have
+plenty,) which is common here.
+
+The greater part of their household and field work is done by slaves
+they purchase from the caravans, coming either from Abyssinia or
+Darfour. Some of the owners of female slaves would, for a dollar,
+without scruple, permit the soldiers of our camp to sleep with them.
+The women of Berber, contrary to the custom in Egypt, go with the face
+unveiled, without embarrassment. Both men and women never consider
+themselves in full dress, unless the hair of the head has been combed
+sleek, then braided and platted together, and afterwards plentifully
+anointed with butter. They never cut the hair, I believe; it
+consequently forms an immense bunch behind the head, similar to that
+observable in some of the ancient statues of Egypt.[34] The barbarous
+practice of excision is universally performed upon all their females,
+whether free or slaves; as is the case also among all the tribes
+inhabiting the banks of the Nile above Assuan.
+
+The people of Berber are, in their exterior deportment, mild and polite.
+Every man we meet, uniformly gives us the greeting of peace, "Salaam
+aleikoum," and uniformly shows a disposition to accommodate us in every
+thing reasonable. This is probably owing to their being, in a very
+considerable degree, a commercial people; Berber being every year
+visited and traversed by numerous caravans from Abyssinia, Sennaar,
+Darfour, and Kordofan.
+
+23d of Jamisalachar. This day arrived the Divan Effendi, from Shendi,
+accompanied by the Malek of that province, and the son of Malek Shouus,
+the chief of the fugitive Shageias. The Malek of Shendi was accompanied
+by a considerable suite, and two most beautiful horses, intended as a
+present to the Pasha.[35] On being introduced to his Excellence, he kissed
+his hand, and pressed it to his forehead, and told him that he had come
+to surrender himself and his country to his favor and protection.
+His Excellence received him graciously, presented him with splendid
+habiliments, and a horse richly caparisoned. After his presentation
+was finished, he was conducted to the tent of the Hasnardar, who was
+directed by the Pasha to treat him with due hospitality. The son of
+Malek Shouus came in behalf of his father, and other distinguished
+chiefs of the Shageias, to implore the mercy of the Pasha for these
+chiefs and the fugitive remnant of their followers, who were opposite
+Shendi, awaiting the decision of the Pasha, as to what was to be their
+fate. I was told that the determination of the Pasha continued in their
+regard the same, making the surrender of their arms and horses the sine
+qua non of peace between him and them. Three days after, the chief of
+Shendi returned home the friend of the Pasha.
+
+On the 25th of the moon, I passed over to the eastern side of the river,
+to purchase camels; as there were many buyers at this time from our
+camp, I did not find any good enough for the exorbitant price demanded.
+I passed the greater part of the day, and the night following, at the
+town of Nousreddin, in the house of one of the principal chiefs of the
+Berbers. He bears the title of Malek, as do all the distinguished chiefs
+of Berber, Shageia, and Dongola. Their dignity is hereditary, generally
+passing from father to son. I have noticed that the families of the
+Maleks exceed the common people in respect of stature and stoutness. The
+Malek, in whose house I lodged, a man about 60 years of age, was near
+seven feet high, and very stout. His eldest son, a young man about
+22 years of age, was about 6 feet 4 inches in stature, stout and well
+proportioned. I imagine, that this superiority in size is owing to the
+circumstance that they eat well and heartily, and have no work to
+do beside seeing that others work for them. The family of this Malek
+carried their hospitality towards me to a very extraordinary length for
+people professing Islam. I was offered, by the mother and mistress of
+the house, my choice of two of her daughters for a bedfellow. They were
+both young, and the handsomest women I have seen in Berber, but married
+to husbands whose houses were at the other end of the town. When
+I understood this circumstance, I told the mother, that a genuine
+Mussulman ought to regard lying with his neighbor's wife as a crime
+almost as bad as murdering him in his bed.[36] I am sorry to be obliged
+to say, that though the Berbers are a quiet and industrious people, very
+civil and disposed to oblige all for whom they have any regard, yet,
+with respect to their women, they appear to be unconscious that their
+conduct is quite irreconcilable with the precepts of the Koran, and the
+customs of their co-religionists. They suffer them to go about with the
+face exposed--to converse with the other sex in the roads, the streets,
+and the fields; and if the women are accustomed to grant their favors
+to their countrymen, as liberally and as frequently as they did to our
+soldiers, I should imagine that it must be more than commonly difficult,
+in this country, for a man to know his own father.[37]
+
+On my return to camp, I was amused on the way by a dispute in connection
+with this subject, between the Malek I have mentioned and a soldier; it
+happened in the boat that brought me back to camp. The boat was heavily
+laden, and this gigantic Malek was stepping into it, when the soldier I
+have mentioned intimated a determination to exclude him, calling him by
+several opprobrious names, and among other terms, "a pimp." Upon this,
+I checked the soldier, telling him that this man was a considerable
+personage in his country, and extremely hospitable to the Osmanlis. This
+mollified the soldier, and the Malek took a place as well as he could.
+The Malek then addressed the soldier in a mild manner, and asked him why
+he had bestowed such appellations upon one who was a Mussulman, as well
+as himself. The soldier positively refused to allow the Malek's claims
+to this honorable appellation. The chief demanded upon what grounds
+the soldier denied it: "Because," said the soldier, "the women of your
+country are all whores, and the men all get drunk with bouza, araky,
+and other forbidden liquors, which you make out of durra and dates;" and
+turning to me, he demanded "whether he was not right?" The poor
+chief appeared to be much vexed that he was unable to reply to this
+accusation, and remained silent. The soldier, not content with humbling
+the unlucky Malek, pursued his advantage without mercy. "Come," said
+he to the chief, "I do not believe that you know any thing about your
+religion, and I will soon make you sensible of it" He then asked the
+chief how many prophets had preceded Mohammed? If he knew any thing
+about the history of Dhulkamein and Gog and Magog? and many others of a
+similar tenor: how to answer which the unfortunate Malek was obliged to
+own his ignorance. The soldier then told him that "the Commander of the
+Faithful,"[38] the chief of the Mussulmans, had authorized his Vizier, the
+Pasha Mehemmed Ali, to set the people on the upper parts of the Nile
+to rights, and that now the Osmanlis were come among them they would
+probably learn how to behave themselves. The Malek might, however, have
+had his revenge upon the edifying soldier, had he known as well as I
+did that he had gone over to the town of Nousreddin expressly to amuse
+himself with the women of the country, and had doubtless paid as much
+attention to the bouza as the most sturdy toper in Berber.
+
+The country of the Berbers, after the best in formation I have been
+able to obtain, is small, not extending, from the upper end of the third
+cataract, more than eight days march in length on both sides of the
+Nile. The Bahar el Uswood, or Black river, bounds it (i.e. on the
+eastern bank) on the south, and separates it from the territory of
+Shendi. The cultivable land reaches generally to the distance of one or
+two miles from the river. It is overflowed generally at the inundation,
+and its produce is very abundant, consisting in durra, wheat, barley,
+beans, cotton, a small grain called "duchan," tobacco, and some garden
+vegetables similar to those of Egypt. Berber also raises great numbers
+of horned cattle, sheep, goats, camels, asses, and very fine horses.
+It is very populous, the succession of villages being almost continued
+along the road on both sides of the river. The houses are built of clay,
+covered with a flat roof of beams overlaid generally with straw; but the
+houses of the Maleks have generally terraced roofs of beaten clay, This
+manner of building is sufficient in a country where no great quantity of
+rain falls throughout the year. Some of the houses of the peasants
+are formed of trusses of cornstalks, and placed side by side in a
+perpendicular position, and lashed together, with roofs of the same
+materials. All the people sleep upon bedsteads, as they do also in
+Dongola and Shageia: these bedsteads are composed of an oblong frame of
+wood, standing on four short legs, the sides of the frame supporting
+a close network of leathern thongs, on which the person sleeps; it is
+elastic and comfortable.
+
+Berber contains plenty of salt, which the natives find in some
+calcareous mountains between the desert and the fertile land. In its
+natural state, it is found mingled with a brown earth, with which the
+stone of those mountains is intermixed. This earth the natives dilute
+with water, which absorbs the salt and leaves the earth at the bottom;
+they then pour off the water into another vessel, and, by exposing it to
+the sun or fire, the water is evaporated and the salt remains.
+
+The assemblage of villages which compose the capital of Nousreddin,
+contains houses enough for a population of five or six thousand souls,
+but I do not believe that the actual population of those villages is so
+great.
+
+The language is Arabic, perfectly intelligible to the natives of Egypt,
+but containing some ancient words at present disused on the lower Nile;
+for instance, the Berber calls a sheep "Kebesh."[39'
+
+As to the climate, the difference between the heat at two hours
+afternoon in the month of the vernal equinox, and at an hour before
+sunrise, has been as great as ten degrees of the thermometer of Reaumur,
+as I have been informed by one of the medical staff attached to the
+army, who was in possession of that instrument. It is at present the
+commencement of spring, and the heat at two hours after mid-day, at
+least to the sense, is as great as in the month of the summer solstice,
+in Cairo. I have seen no ferocious animals, either in Berber or the
+country below, and believe that they are rare.
+
+5th of Regeb. The camp continues in Berber, awaiting the arrival of the
+remainder of the cannon, ammunition, provisions and troops, from the
+boats at the cataract. The reason why these have not been transported
+hither before this time, is the want of camels, a large part of the
+camels attached to the army having perished, by reason of having been
+over fatigued by the Pasha's forced march over the desert, and up the
+country of Berber. A considerable number of camels have been obtained
+from Berber and sent to the cataract, and more are expected to arrive
+from Shendi, to which place the Divan Effendi has accompanied the chief
+of that country when he left our camp, in order to receive them. Abdin
+Cacheff departed two days past for Dongola, with his division. He is
+charged, by Mehemmed Ali, with the government of the country between the
+second and third cataracts.[40] Twelve hundred men, under the command of
+Ibrihim Cacheff, are said to be on the way to replace the vacancy left
+in our camp by the departure of Abdin Cacheff. They are expected to
+arrive in a few days, if not delayed by the sickness of Ibrihim Cacheff,
+who, it is said in the camp, is dangerously ill on the road.
+
+7th of Regeb. This day Nousreddin, the Malek of Berber, came to kiss the
+hand of the Pasha. He had been prevented from paying his homage to the
+conqueror heretofore by sickness. He brought with him, as a present to
+the Pasha, fifty fine horses, and fifty dromedaries of prime breed. He
+was well received by his Excellence, and his presents were returned by
+the Pasha, by others of great value. Nousreddin is a very tall and very
+large man, about sixty years of age. Two days after, having occasion to
+go to the other side of the river, I found Nousreddin upon the shore,
+awaiting the arrival of a boat to carry him and some of his chiefs
+over. I paid him some compliments relative to the handsome horses he had
+presented to the Pasha, which pleased him considerably; he invited me
+to come to his house and partake of his hospitality. I told him, if
+circumstances would admit it, I would visit him in a few days.
+
+From the 10th of Regeb to the end of the moon, nothing worth notice took
+place, except the successive and gradual arrival of the remainder of
+the cannon,[41] ammunition, stores and troops from the cataract, which
+had been left there when the Pasha quitted it, for want of camels to
+transport them. On the last day of the month, arrived the cavalry
+of Ibrihim Cacheff from Egypt, consisting of four hundred excellent
+horsemen; one thousand infantry were yet far distant, but on their way
+to join us. Ibrihim Cacheff is at Wady Halfa, severely sick.
+
+On the 2d of the moon Shaban, shortly after the hour of afternoon
+prayer, the signal was fired and the tents fell. We mounted our snorting
+horses, now lusty from long repose, and commenced our march to traverse
+the famous country of the Ethiopian shepherds, at present subject to the
+Malek of Shendi. We arrived opposite Shendi, by easy marches, in eight
+days, and encamped on the west side of the river, near a very large
+village called "Shendi el Garb," i.e. Shendi on the west bank.
+
+Our route from Berber led us through a country consisting of immense
+plains of fertile soil, extending many miles from the river, and mostly
+covered with herbage; mountains or hills were rarely visible.[42]
+
+We passed many large villages, most of which stood far off from the
+river, to be out of the reach of the inundation. The houses of these
+villages, particularly as we approached Shendi, were generally built
+with sloping roofs of thatched straw, which indicated that this is a
+country visited by the rains. We hardly ever, during our march, came in
+view of the river, except to encamp. We found it at this season narrow
+and shallow, though its bed was frequently a mile and a half broad. At
+every halt we made, the chiefs of the country came to salute the Pasha,
+and seemed to be well disposed towards the army, whose conduct was very
+exemplary.
+
+On the 9th of the moon, I visited the town of Shendi el Garb, in the
+rear of our camp. It is large and well built, in comparison with the
+other villages I have seen on the Upper Nile. It contains about six
+thousand inhabitants, and has three market places, where the people of
+the country exchange dollars and durra for what they have need of. Our
+piasters they disliked, being ignorant of their value, but sometimes
+received them for fowls, vegetables, butter, and meat, and for durra,
+but for wheat they demanded dollars.
+
+On the 10th of the moon, I went to Shendi on the east bank, which is
+the capital of the country. I traversed the town with some surprise; the
+houses are low, but well built of clay. Large areas, walled in for the
+reception of the merchandize brought by the caravans, are to be seen in
+various parts of the town, which is large, containing probably five or
+six thousand inhabitants; the streets are wide and airy, regular
+market places are found there, where, beside meat, butter,[43] grain and
+vegetables are also to be purchased, spices brought from Jidda, gum
+arabic, beads, and other ornaments for the women. The people of Shendi
+have a bad character, being both ferocious and fraudulent. Great numbers
+of slaves of both sexes, from Abyssinia and Darfour, are to be found
+here, at a moderate price, a handsome Abyssinian girl selling for about
+forty or fifty dollars. The chief of Shendi, the same who had come to
+our camp in Berber, has done his uttermost to promote a good disposition
+in his people towards the Osmanlis, and has made the Pasha a present
+of several hundreds of very fine camels, within the last two days. His
+house is not built of better materials than those of his people, and
+differs from them only in being larger. Shendi stands about half a mile
+from the easterly bank of the river. Its immediate environs are sandy;
+it derives its importance solely from being the rendezvous of the
+caravans of Sennaar and the neighboring countries going to Mecca or
+Egypt. The territory belonging to the chief of Shendi is said to be very
+large,[44] but by no means peopled in proportion to its extent. He can,
+however, in conjunction with the Malek of Halfya, bring into the field
+thirty thousand horsemen, mounted on steeds probably as beautiful as any
+found in any country in the world.
+
+On the 14th of the moon, some soldiers, who went to a village in
+the neighborhood of the camp, to get their rations of durra from the
+magazine in this village, which had been formed there by its chief,
+for the service of the army, were insulted, maltreated, and two of
+them killed outright with lances, and others severely wounded by the
+inhabitants. On the news of this outrage reaching the camp, the soldiers
+took arms, and mounted, to proceed to this village, with the full
+determination to revenge the death of their comrades in the severest
+manner. In five minutes nearly all the camp was upon the march for this
+village, when the Pasha sent orders to stop them and leave the affair to
+him. It was however impossible to prevent the greater part of them
+from proceeding to the village, which they pillaged and destroyed,
+sacrificing to their fury many of its inhabitants. The plunder which
+they brought back was however seized by the Selictar, and by the Pasha's
+orders restored to its owners.
+
+The conduct of his Excellence on this occasion was highly laudable,
+while it must be confessed that that of the soldiers was not much to
+be blamed. Durra--a miserable pittance of durra, scarcely sufficient
+to support nature, was all that was required from the people of these
+countries, money free; and this, in the instance mentioned, was refused
+by a people whose chief had already granted it--a people absolutely
+within our power, and who extorted from the starving soldiery enormous
+prices for every thing they sold us, and who frequently refused to sell
+us any thing at all with great ferocity and insolence.
+
+On the 15th of the moon, at two hours before sunset, the signal was
+fired, and the camp of the Pasha rose to commence its march for Sennaar.
+We marched till midnight, and reposed, as usual, on the bank of the
+river till about the same hour of the afternoon of the 16th of the moon,
+when we pursued our march for five hours, and halted by the river. We
+stayed here till the 18th, in the afternoon, in order to obtain three
+days rations for the horses from the villages in the neighborhood, which
+are numerous and large, as the country through which our route would lie
+for that time, is destitute of inhabitants and cultivation.
+
+It was on the 16th that Malek Shouus, the chief of the fugitive
+Shageias, who had fled as the army approached up the country, came at
+length to the camp to surrender himself to the discretion of the Pasha.
+He addressed the Pasha, as I have been informed, as follows: "I have
+fought against you to the utmost of my means and power, and am now
+ready, if you will, to fight under the orders of my conqueror." The
+courage this man had shown in battle, and his firmness in adversity, had
+engaged the respect of the Osmanlis, and he is as graciously received by
+the Pasha, who created him a Bimbashi, and received him, his companions,
+and followers, into his service. Malek Shouus is a large stout man, of a
+pleasing physiognomy though black, of about forty years of age, and was
+considered as the greatest warrior among the people of the Upper Nile,
+who all stood in awe of him.[45]
+
+The 19th, 20th, and 21st of the moon, were employed in traversing the
+naked country before-mentioned, which is barren, rocky, and without
+cultivation. We marched for three days, from the middle of the afternoon
+till midnight. It was not till the second hour after midnight, however,
+of the third day, that we arrived at a country on the border of the
+Nile, containing several villages, where we remained till the middle
+of the afternoon of the 21st. On our arrival at these villages, the
+darkness and severe hunger engaged several of the soldiers to take, by
+force, sheep and goats from the inhabitants. The officers of the Pasha
+vigorously interposed to prevent this infraction of the orders of his
+Excellence, and several of the guilty were severely punished for taking
+forbidden means to gratify the demands of nature.
+
+At the hour of afternoon prayer the signal was fired, and the camp
+proceeded onwards. We left the villages afore-mentioned, and passed
+through a sandy tract covered with bushes and the thorny acacia, which
+embarrassed our march, and, by occasioning several detours, caused the
+army to lose its way. After wandering about till midnight, the camp at
+length arrived on the bank of the Nile.
+
+On the 22d, at the rising of the moon, the camp proceeded, and halted
+in the forenoon on the beach of the river, opposite Halfya, a very large
+village on the easterly bank. We stayed here till the twenty-sixth to
+obtain durra from this territory, whose chief brought, as a present to
+the Pasha, some fine horses and many camels, and received, in return,
+some valuable presents. Our side of the river is desert, and covered
+with trees and bushes. During our stay opposite Halfya, the Nile, on the
+night of the 23d, rose suddenly about two feet, and inundated some parts
+of the sandy flats where we were encamped; the water entering the
+tents of several, my own among others, and wetting my bed, arms, and
+baggage.[46] It had risen a little shortly after the equinox, while the
+army was in Berber, and afterwards subsided more than it had risen.
+We find the sky every day more and more overcast; distant thunder and
+lightning, accompanied with violent squalls, (which have overset my tent
+twice,) are, within a few days, frequent, and drops of rain have fallen
+in our camp.
+
+On the 26th, at one hour after noon, we proceeded to the Bahar el Abiud,
+about five hours march above our present position, where the Pasha
+intends to cross into the territory of Sennaar. The camp arrived at
+sunset at a position a little above where the Nile falls into the Bahar
+el Abiud, and stopped. Immediately on my arrival, I drank of this river,
+being, probably, the first man of Frank origin that ever tasted its
+waters.
+
+The Nile is not half as broad as the Bahar el Abiud, which is, from bank
+to bank, one mile higher than where the Nile joins it, about a mile
+and a quarter in breadth. It comes, as far as we can see it, from the
+west-south-west. The Nile of Bruce must, therefore, after the expedition
+of Ismael Pasha, be considered as a branch of a great and unexplored
+river, which may possibly be found to be connected with the Niger.
+
+On the 27th, early in the morning, the Pasha commenced transporting the
+army over the Bahar el Abiud, by means of nine small boats, which had
+been able to pass the third Cataract, and follow the army. The country
+on our side of the Bahar el Abiud, is uncultivated, and apparently
+without inhabitants. The army is encamped by the side of the river, on
+a beautiful plain of good soil, extending a considerable distance back
+towards the desert. During the inundation, this plain becomes evidently
+an island, as there is a channel worn by water, in the rear of it, at
+this season dry. The tracks of the hippopotamus are found throughout
+this plain.
+
+By the 29th, in the afternoon, i.e. in two days and a half, the Pasha
+had finished transporting into Sennaar the whole of his camp, consisting
+of about six thousand persons, with the artillery, ammunition, tents,
+baggage, horses, camels, and asses, by the aid of nine boats, none of
+them large, an expedition, I believe, unparalleled in the annals of
+Turkish warfare.[47]
+
+During our stay on the other side of the Bahar el Abiud, it was reported
+in the camp that some of the Mogrebin soldiers, gone out to shoot
+gazelles, had killed in the desert which lies off from the river, an
+animal, resembling a bull, except that its feet were like those of a
+camel. I did not see this animal, but the story was affirmed to me by
+several.
+
+The army, on its crossing the Bahar el Abiud, encamped on the point of
+land just below which the Bahar el Abiud and the Nile join each other.
+The water of the Bahar el Abiud is troubled and whitish, and has a
+peculiar sweetish taste. The soldiers said that "the water of the Bahar
+el Abiud would not quench thirst." This notion probably arose from the
+circumstance that they were never tired of drinking it, it is so light
+and sweet. The water of the Nile is at present perfectly pure and
+transparent, but by no means so agreeable to the palate as that of the
+Bahar el Abiud, as I experimented myself, drinking first of the Bahar
+el Abiud, and then walking about two hundred yards across the point,
+and drinking of the Nile, the water of which appeared to me hard and
+tasteless in comparison.
+
+Nothing of the kind could be easier than to ascend the Bahar el Abiud
+from the place where we are. A canja, well manned and armed, and
+accompanied by another boat containing provisions for four or six
+months, and both furnished with grapnels to enable them at night to
+anchor in the river, might, in my opinion, ascend and return securely:
+as the tribes on its borders have great dread of fire-arms, and will
+hardly dare to meddle with those who carry them.
+
+We stayed on the Sennaar side of the Bahar el Abiud till the 1st of
+Ramadan, when the army commenced its march for Sennaar, the capital,
+proceeding by the bank of the Nile.[48]
+
+The army reached Sennaar in thirteen days. The signal for striking the
+tents and loading the camels was generally fired about two hours after
+midnight. One hour was allowed for loading the baggage, when a second
+cannon was fired, and the march of the army commenced, and was continued
+each day till about two or three hours before noon, when the camp
+reposed till about two hours after midnight of the same day. The army
+suffered severely during this march; nothing was given to the troops for
+subsistence but durra, unground, which the soldiers were frequently in
+great distress to obtain the means of making into meal, in order to bake
+a little miserable bread, which was all they had to eat.[49] For myself,
+I was reduced to great extremity. The camel, carrying my provisions
+and culinary utensils, and several other articles, was lost by the
+carelessness of a domestic. I was consequently left without any thing to
+eat, or the means of preparing what I might obtain. I threw myself under
+the hospitable shade of the tent of Mr. Caillaud, (then only occupied
+by Mr. Constant, his companion,) the gentleman I have mentioned in the
+Preface with so much well merited esteem, where I stayed till my arrival
+at Sennaar.
+
+The country we traversed is that part of the kingdom of Sennaar which
+lies between the Nile and the Bahar el Abiud. It is an immense and
+fertile plain, occupied by numerous villages, some of them very large;
+that of "Wahat Medinet," for instance, containing, probably, four or
+five thousand inhabitants. What country we saw was, at this season,
+perfectly naked of grass, consisting generally of immense fields which,
+in the season past, had been planted with durra. Acacia trees, and
+bushes in the country far back from the river, (which is sandy,) were
+abundant, but no herbage was visible; I did not see throughout our route
+a single waterwheel;[50] and I believe that the country is only cultivated
+when the inundation has retired.
+
+The houses of the villages are built in the following manner. A circle
+of stakes is planted in the ground, a conical frame of poles attached
+to these stakes below, and meeting and fastened at the top of the cone,
+forms the roof. This roof, and the sides of the house, are then covered
+with thatched straw, which suffices to exclude the rains.
+
+Some of the houses, however, belonging to the chiefs are of a stronger
+fabric, being composed of thick walls made of bricks dried in the sun,
+and having terraced roofs. In the thatched cottages I have mentioned,
+the air and light come in by the doorway and four small holes pierced in
+the walls of the house. This scanty ventilation renders these cottages
+very hot and close: the difference between the temperature of an
+inhabited house and that of the air outside being, in my judgment,
+almost as great as that of the undressing room of a bath at Cairo, and
+that of the passage just outside of the bath itself. This circumstance
+alone is almost sufficient to account for the great mortality in
+Sennaar, during the rainy season, when whole families are shut up in
+these close cottages; and every one who goes abroad must necessarily go
+with his pores in a condition expressly adapted to make him catch a cold
+or a fever.
+
+Six days before the army reached Sennaar, the Pasha was met by an
+ambassador from the Sultan; he had an audience of his Excellence,
+and returned the next day to Sennaar. He was a handsome young man,
+accompanied by a numerous suite mounted on dromedaries. The army pursued
+its route, steadily marching in order of battle, the infantry in the
+centre, the cavalry on the wings; the artillery in advance of the centre
+and the baggage in the rear, with Shouus' cavalry and the dromedary
+corps of Abbadies scouring our front and flanks to a great distance. Two
+days after it was reported in the camp that the Sultan of Sennaar was on
+his way to meet us with a strong force, preceded by numerous elephants
+and great herds of cattle, collected in order to receive and exhaust
+the fire of our troops. The Pasha proceeded however steadily on with the
+army in order of battle, and equally prepared for peace or war. Two
+days before the arrival of the army in Sennaar, as I was riding near the
+Topgi Bashi, who was in front of the army with the artillery, I saw
+a great number of armed men approaching, mounted on horses and
+dromedaries. Presently the Malek of Shendi (who had accompanied the
+Pasha)[51], rode up to the Pasha and informed him that the strangers
+approaching were the principal officers of the Sultan of Sennaar, and
+their suite, who had come to demand terms of peace.
+
+I saw these personages when they arrived. They were two, one a tall thin
+elderly man of a mulatto complexion, dressed in green and yellow silks
+of costly fabric, with a cap of a singular form, something resembling a
+crown, made of the same materials, upon his head. The other was the
+same young man who had come a few days past to the Pasha. He was
+dressed to-day in silks like the other, except that his head was bare of
+ornament. They were accompanied by a fine lad about sixteen, who was,
+it is said, the son of the predecessor of the present Sultan. All three
+were mounted on tall and beautiful horses, and accompanied by about two
+hundred soldiers of the Sultan, mounted on dromedaries, and armed with
+broadswords, lances and shields.
+
+When the Pasha was informed of their approach by the Malek of Shendi, he
+ordered a halt. The tent of the Pasha was pitched, and the ambassadors
+were introduced. They were treated with great attention and liberality
+by the Pasha, who, during the day and the course of the evening
+following, gave them opportunities enough to be convinced of the immense
+superiority of our arms to theirs. During the evening, some star rockets
+and bombs were thrown for their amusement and edification. No language
+can do justice to their astonishment at the spectacle, which undoubtedly
+produced the effect intended by the Pasha--humility and a sense of
+inferiority. The next morning at an early hour the army pursued its
+march, accompanied by the ambassadors from Sennaar.
+
+About the hour of noon, the outscouts announced to the Pasha that the
+Sultan of Sennaar himself was approaching to salute his Excellence. On
+his approach, the army received him with the honors due to his rank. He
+was conducted to the tent of the Pasha, by the ambassadors he had sent,
+where he remained in audience with his Excellence a long time. When the
+audience was finished, he and the personages he had before sent to the
+Pasha were splendidly habited in the Turkish fashion, and presented with
+horses, furnished with saddles and bridles embroidered with gold.[52]
+
+It was on the morning following that the army reached the capital. We
+marched in order of battle. The Pasha, accompanied by the Sultan of
+Sennaar and his chief servants, in front. On approaching the city, the
+army saluted this long wished for town, where they imagined that their
+toils and privations would cease, at least for a time, with repeated and
+continued volleys of cannon and musquetry, accompanied with shouts of
+exultation. But these shouts subsided on a nearer approach, on finding
+this once powerful city of Sennaar to be almost nothing but heaps of
+ruins, containing in some of its quarters some few hundreds of habitable
+but almost deserted houses. After the camp was pitched, and I had
+refreshed myself with a little food, I took a walk about the town. At
+almost every step I trod upon fragments of burnt bricks, among which are
+frequently to be found fragments of porcelain, and sometimes marble. The
+most conspicuous buildings in Sennaar are a mosque, and a large
+brick palace adjoining it. The mosque, which is of brick, is in good
+preservation; its windows are covered with well wrought bronze gratings,
+and the doors are handsomely and curiously carved. The interior was
+desecrated by uncouth figures of animals, portrayed upon the walls
+with charcoal. This profanation had been perpetrated by the Pagan
+mountaineers who inhabit the mountains thirteen days march south of
+Sennaar, and who, at some period, not very long past, had taken
+the town, and had left upon the walls of the mosque these tokens of
+possession.
+
+The palace is large, but in ruins, except the centre building, which is
+six stories high, having five rows of windows.[53] By mounting upon its
+roof you have the best possible view of the city, the river, and the
+environs, that the place can afford. I judged that Sennaar was about
+three miles in circumference. The greater part of this space is now
+covered with the ruins of houses, built of bricks either burnt or dried
+in the sun. I do not believe that there are more than four hundred
+houses standing in Sennaar and of these one-third or more are round
+cottages, like those of the villages. Of those built of bricks, the
+largest is the house of the Sultan. It is a large enclosure, containing
+ranges of low but well built habitations of sun-dried bricks, with
+terraced roofs, and the interior stuccoed with fine clay. What struck me
+the most, was the workmanship of the doors of the old houses of Sennaar,
+which are composed of planed and jointed planks, adorned frequently with
+carved work, and strengthened and studded with very broad headed nails;
+the whole inimitable by the present population of Sennaar. These houses
+are very rarely of more than one story in height, the roofs terraced
+with fine and well beaten clay spread over mats laid upon rafters, which
+form the roof.
+
+The city of Sennaar is of an oblong form, its longest side opposite the
+river. It stands not at any distance from the river, but directly upon
+its west bank, which consists hereabouts of hard clay.
+
+The river is now rising,[54] but exhibits itself at present to the view
+as narrow and winding, as far as the eye can reach, between sand flats,
+which will shortly be covered by its augmenting waters. The bed of the
+Nile opposite Sennaar may be reckoned at about half a mile broad.
+
+The environs of Sennaar are wide plains, containing large and populous
+villages. A long ragged mountain, the only one visible, stands about
+fifteen miles to the west of the town. Below the town is a small but
+pretty island, whose inhabitants thrive by raising vegetables for the
+market of Sennaar; and the opposite bank of the river, presents several
+verdant patches of ground devoted to the same object.[55] Beyond these
+spots, the country on the other bank appeared to be mostly covered with
+trees and bushes, among which I saw four elephants feeding.
+
+I could not find any remains of any very ancient building in Sennaar
+during my stay, and I believe that none exists there. Such is the
+present appearance of a town which has evidently been once rich,
+comfortable and nourishing, but which, for eighteen years past, as I
+have been informed, has been the lacerated prey of War and Confusion.
+
+On the day after our arrival the conditions of the accord between the
+Pasha and the Sultan of Sennaar were arranged and sealed; by which the
+latter recognized himself as subject and feudatory of the Grand Seignor,
+and surrendered his dominions to the supremacy and sway of the Vizier of
+the Padischah, Mehemmed Ali Pasha. The next day the Tchocadar Aga of his
+Highness the Viceroy of Egypt, who had arrived in our camp two months
+past, embarked in the canja of the Pasha Ismael to carry the documents
+of this important transaction to Cairo.
+
+For several days after our arrival at Sennaar, our camp was incommoded
+by furious squalls of wind, accompanied with thunder, lightning, and
+torrents of rain. The Pasha therefore determined to caserne the troops
+in the houses of the town, and to stay there during the rainy season. In
+ten days after our arrival, the army was distributed throughout the town
+and in the villages on the opposite bank of the river. The Pasha himself
+took up his quarters in a large house of the Sultan of Sennaar, which
+had been prepared for his accommodation.
+
+A few days after our arrival, a slave informed the Pasha that the Sultan
+of Sennaar, before our arrival, had thrown into the river some cannon.
+The Pasha ordered search to be made; four iron guns were discovered by
+divers, and were dragged on shore. They appeared to me to be ordinary
+ship guns; no mark or inscription was found on them to enable me to
+judge where they were fabricated. I believe them however to have been
+originally obtained of the Portuguese by the Abyssinians, from whom the
+people said the Sultan of Sennaar had taken them in some ancient war
+between the two kingdoms.
+
+On the 19th of Ramadan, a party of Bedouins were ordered by the Pasha to
+go in pursuit of some hundred black slaves of the Sultan of Sennaar, who
+some time before our arrival had run away, taking with them some of his
+best horses. On the 23d they returned, bringing with them between five
+and six hundred negroes of both sexes. But on Malek Shouus going to the
+Pasha and representing to him that these people were not the fugitives
+in question, the Pasha ordered them to be immediately released and to
+return to their respective villages.
+
+About the same time the Pasha detached Cogia Achmet with thirteen
+hundred cavalry and three pieces of artillery to the upper country
+of Sennaar between the Bahar el Abiud and the Nile to secure its
+submission.[56] And on the 26th of the moon the Divan Effendi was sent
+with three hundred men across the Nile, to secure that part of the
+kingdom of Sennaar which lies on the east side of the Nile.[57]
+
+Seven days after our arrival in Sennaar I put in execution a resolution
+the state of my health obliged me to determine on, and demanded of the
+Pasha permission to return to Cairo. I represented to him, that all
+the critical operations of the campaign were now happily concluded, and
+crowned with the fullest success; and that, therefore, he could have no
+particular need of me any longer. I stated to him that repeated sickness
+during the campaign had rendered my health very infirm, and that a
+residence of four months at Sennaar, during the rainy season, would
+probably destroy me; and as my presence for that time at least could
+be no ways necessary, I requested him to grant the permission demanded,
+telling him that if, after the rainy season was finished, he should
+think proper to recall me to camp that I would obey the summons. The
+Pasha hesitated, and for several days declined granting my request;
+but on its being represented to him that the reasons I had stated were
+really just and sufficient causes for my return, his Excellence finally
+told me, that on the return of Cogia Achmet he should dispatch a courier
+to Cairo, and that I should accompany him.
+
+On the third day of the Feast of Bairam I saw the Sultan of Sennaar
+parade the town in great ceremony. He was mounted on a superb horse, and
+clothed in green and yellow silks, but his head was bare of every thing
+but its natural wool. Over his head an officer carried a large umbrella
+of green and yellow silks in alternate stripes. He was accompanied by
+the officers of his palace, and his guard, beautifully mounted, and
+followed by the native population of Sennaar, both men and women, who
+uttered shrill cries, which were now and then interrupted by the sound
+of a most lugubrious trumpet which preceded the Sultan, and which was
+blown by a musician who, judging from the tones he produced, seemed to
+be afflicted with a bad cough.
+
+On the 7th of the moon Shawal, the Divan Effendi returned to Sennaar,
+having crushed all attempts to oppose the establishment of the Pasha's
+authority in the eastern part of the kingdom of Sennaar, and bringing
+with him three of the chiefs of the refractory, and three hundred and
+fifty prisoners, as slaves. The events of this expedition were related
+to me as follows: "We marched without resistance for eight days, in
+the direction of the rising sun, through a country fine, fertile, and
+crowded with villages, till we came to some larger villages near a
+mountain called 'Catta,' where we found four or five hundred men posted
+in front of them to resist our march They were armed with lances,
+and presented themselves to the combat with great resolution. But on
+experiencing the effects of our fire-arms, they took to flight toward
+the mountain; two hundred of them were hemmed in, and cut to pieces,
+and three of their chiefs were taken prisoners, as well as all the
+inhabitants we could find in their villages; after which we returned."
+
+On my demanding if water was plentiful at a distance from the river,
+my informant replied, that "there were wells in abundance in all the
+numerous villages, with which the country abounds; and also numerous
+rivulets and streams, which at this season descend from the mountains.
+The troops, he said, had forded two small rivers (probably the Ratt and
+the Dandar); he added, that the country abounded in beautiful birds
+and insects, one of the latter he brought with him; it was a small
+scarabeus, covered with a fine close crimson down, exactly resembling
+scarlet velvet. The people of the country he described as very harmless,
+and exceedingly anxious to know what had brought us to Sennaar to
+trouble them."
+
+Two of these Chiefs taken prisoners the Pasha ordered to be impaled in
+the market-place of Sennaar. They suffered this horrid death with great
+firmness. One of them said nothing but "there is no God but God,
+and Mohammed is his Apostle," which he frequently repeated before
+impalement; while the other, named Abdallah, insulted, defied, and
+cursed his executioners, calling them "robbers and murderers," till too
+weak to speak, when he expressed his feelings by spitting at them.[58] The
+third Chief was detained prisoner, in order to be sent to Cairo.
+
+During my stay in Sennaar, I endeavored to get information of the
+people of the country, and of the few caravan merchants found in the
+market-place of Sennaar, relative to the Bahar el Abiud and the Nile.
+The information I received was as follows: "The source of the Adit (so
+the people of Sennaar call the river that runs by their city) is in
+the Gibel el Gumara, (i.e. that great range of mountains called the
+Mountains of the Moon,) about sixty days march of a camel from Sennaar.
+in a direction nearly south. It receives, at various distances above
+Sennaar, several smaller rivers which come from Abyssinia and from the
+mountains south of Sennaar. The general course of the Bahar el Abiud
+(they said) was nearly parallel with that of the Adit, but its source
+was much farther off, among the Gibel el Gumara, than that of the Adit.
+The Bahar el Abiud, they said, appears very large at the place where the
+Pasha's army crossed it, because it is augmented from the junction of
+three other rivers, one from the south-west, and two others from the
+east, running from the mountains south of Sennaar."[59] On my asking them,
+"whether the Bahar el Abiud was open and free of shellals or rapids?"
+they said, "that at a place called Sulluk, about fifteen days march
+above its junction with the Adit, (i.e. above the place where we crossed
+the Bahar el Abiud,) there was a shellal, which they believed that boats
+could not pass.[60] On my asking whether, by following the banks of the
+Bahar el Abiud and the river that empties into it from the west, it was
+not possible to reach a city called Tombut or Tombuctoo?" They said,
+that "they knew nothing of the city I mentioned, having never been
+farther west than Kordofan and Darfour."
+
+This was all I could learn: but I am disposed to believe, that the main
+stream of the Bahar el Abiud cannot have its source in the same latitude
+with that of the Adit, because it commenced its rise, at least, this
+year, about twenty days sooner than did the Adit, and the different
+color of its waters proves that it flows through a tract differing in
+quality of soil from that through which passes the Adit. The interesting
+question, "whether the Niger communicates with the Bahar el Abiud?"
+will, however, very probably be determined before the close of another
+year, as the Pasha will probably send an expedition up that river.
+
+Secondly, I am further disposed to believe that the main stream of the
+Adit, or Nile of Bruce, does not take its rise in Abyssinia, but in the
+mountains assigned as the place of its origin by the people of Sennaar.
+For on viewing the mass of water that runs by Sennaar even now, when
+the river has not attained two-thirds of the usual magnitude it acquires
+during the rainy season, I can by no means believe that the main source
+of such a river is only about three hundred miles distant from Sennaar.
+
+The tract of country included between the Adit and the Bahar el Abiud is
+called El Gezira, i.e. the island: because, in the season of the rains,
+many rivers running from the mountains in the south into the Bahar el
+Abiud and the Adit, occasion this tract to be included by rivers.
+
+I am disposed to believe, that the representations made of the climate
+of this country are much exaggerated; as, except during the rainy
+season, and immediately after it, the country is a high and dry plain,[61]
+by no means excessively hot, because the level of the countries on the
+Nile being constantly ascending from Egypt, occasions Sennaar to be
+many hundred feet higher than the level of Egypt, which is proved by the
+rapid descent of the waters of the Nile toward the latter country. The
+east and south winds also are, in Sennaar, cool breezes; because they
+come either from the mountains of Abyssinia, or the huge and high ranges
+which compose the Gibel el Gumara. I was in Sennaar at Midsummer, and
+at no time found the heat very uncomfortable, provided I was in the open
+air, and under a shade. In the cottages and houses, indeed, on account
+of their want of ventilation, the heat was excessive.
+
+I made during my stay in Sennaar frequent inquiries about the fly
+mentioned by Bruce; the people of Sennaar said they knew nothing of
+it;[62] but, in reply to my inquiries, referred to a worm, which they
+say comes out of the earth during the rainy season, and whose bite is
+dangerous.
+
+The reptile species in Sennaar are numerous. The houses are full of
+lizards, which, if you lie on the floor, you may feel crawling or
+running over you all night. I saw at Sennaar a serpent of a species, I
+believe, never before mentioned. It was a snake of about two feet
+long, and not thicker than my thumb, striped on the back, with a copper
+colored belly, and a flat head. This serpent had four legs, which did
+not appear to be of any use to him, as they were short and hanging from
+the sides of his belly. All his motions, which were quick and rapid,
+were made in the usual manner of serpents, i.e. upon its belly.[63]
+
+I do not feel authorized to give an opinion as to the national character
+of the people inhabiting the kingdom of Sennaar; but I am obliged to
+consider the inhabitants of the capital as a very detestable people.
+They are exceedingly avaricious, extortionate, faithless, filthy and
+cruel.[64] The men are generally tall and well shaped, but the females
+are, almost universally, the ugliest I ever beheld; this is probably
+owing to their being obliged to do all sorts of drudgery.
+
+The children of these people, and indeed of all the tribes on the Upper
+Nile, go quite naked till near the age of puberty. A girl unmarried
+is distinguished by a sort of short leather apron, composed of a great
+number of leather thongs hanging like tassels from a leather belt
+fastened round the waist: and this is all her clothing, being no longer
+than that of our mother Eve after her fall. The married women, however,
+are generally habited in long coarse cotton clothes, which they wrap
+round them so as to cover their whole person, except when they are at
+work, when they wrap the whole round the waist.
+
+As to the manufactures of the people of the Upper Nile, they are
+limited, I believe, to the following articles, Earthenware for domestic
+uses and bowls for pipes; cotton cloths for clothing; knives, mattocks,
+hoes and ploughs, for agriculture, water-wheels for the same; horse
+furniture, such as the best formed saddles I ever rode on, very neatly
+fabricated; stirrups in the European form, made of silver for the
+chiefs, and not like those of the Turks; large iron spurs, bits with
+small chains for reins, to prevent them from being severed by the stroke
+of an enemy's broadsword; long and double edged broadswords, with the
+guard frequently made of silver; iron heads for lances, and shields
+made of the hide of the elephant; to which may be added, that the women
+fabricate very beautiful straw mats.
+
+There is a general resemblance, in domestic customs, among all the
+peoples who inhabit the borders of the Nile from Assuan to Sennaar. They
+differ, however, somewhat in complexion and character. The people of
+the province of Succoot are generally not so black as the Nubian or the
+Dongolese. They are also frank and prepossessing in their deportment.
+The Dongolese is dirty, idle, and ferocious. The character of the
+Shageian is the same, except that he is not idle, being either an
+industrious peasant or a daring freebooter. The people on the third
+cataract are not very industrious, but have the character of being
+honest and obliging. The people of Berber are by far the most civilized
+of all the people of the Upper Nile. The inhabitants of the provinces of
+Shendi and Halfya are a sullen, scowling, crafty, and ferocious people;
+while the peasants of Sennaar inhabiting the villages we found on our
+route, are a respectable people in comparison with those of the
+capital. Throughout the whole of these countries there is one general
+characteristic, in which they resemble the Indians of America, namely,
+courage and self-respect. The chiefs, after coming to salute the Pasha,
+would make no scruple of sitting down facing him, and converse with him
+without embarrassment, in the same manner as they are accustomed to
+do with their own Maleks, with whom they are very familiar. With the
+greatest apparent simplicity they would frequently propose troublesome
+questions to the Pasha, such as, "O great Sheck, or O great Malek; (for
+so they called the Pasha) what have we done to you, or your country,
+that you should come so far to make war upon us? Is it for want of food
+in your country that you come to get it in ours?" and others similar.
+
+On the 14th of the moon Shawal, Cogia Achmet returned to Sennaar,
+bringing with him about two thousand prisoners as slaves, consisting
+almost entirely of women and children. The events of his expedition were
+related to me as follows: He marched rapidly for ten days in a direction
+about south-west of Sennaar, (the capital) without resistance, through
+a well-peopled country, without meeting with any opposition till he came
+to the mountains of Bokki, inhabited by Pagans, the followers of
+the chief who had rejected the Pasha's letter. They were posted on a
+mountain of difficult access; but their post was stormed, and after a
+desperate struggle, they found that spears and swords, though wielded by
+stout hearts and able hands, were not a match for fire-arms. They fled
+to another mountain, rearward of their first position. They were again
+attacked by cannon and musketry, and obliged to fly toward a third
+position: in their flight, they were in part hemmed in by the cavalry
+of Cogia Achmet, and about fifteen hundred of them put to the sword.
+Those who escaped took refuge in a craggy mountain, inaccessible to
+cavalry. Cogia Achmet, believing he had made a sufficient proof to them
+that resistance on their part was unavailing, and the troops having
+suffered great distress by reason of the almost continual rains, after
+sweeping the villages of these people of all the population they could
+find in them, resumed his march for Sennaar. On their return, they had
+to ford several deep streams, at this season running from the mountains,
+and both horse and man were almost worn out before they reached Sennaar.
+
+The people of Bokki are a hardy race of mountaineers--tall, stout, and
+handsome. They are Pagans, worshippers of the sun, which planet they
+consider it as profane to look at. The prisoners brought in by Cogia
+Achmet resembled in their dress the savages of America; they were almost
+covered with beads, bracelets, and trinkets, made out of pebbles, bones,
+and ivory. Their complexion is almost black, and their manners and
+deportment prepossessing. The arms of these people gave me great
+surprise: they consisted of well-formed and handsome helmets of iron,
+coats of mail, made of leather and overlaid with plates of iron, long
+and well fashioned lances, and a hand-weapon exactly resembling the
+ancient bills formerly used in England by the yeomanry. They were
+represented to me by the Turks as dangerous in personal combat. They had
+never seen fire-arms before, and they nevertheless withstood them
+with great intrepidity. They said, I was informed, that a fusee was "a
+coward's weapon, who stands at a safe distance from his enemy, and kills
+him by an invisible stroke."[65]
+
+On the 17th, the courier carrying the information to Cairo of this
+expedition and its results, embarked in a canja to descend the river
+as far as Berber, from whence he would proceed by the desert to Egypt.
+Agreeably to the promise of the Pasha, I accompanied him. We arrived at
+Nousreddin in Berber in five days and nights. Having the favor of the
+current, and sixteen oarsmen on board, we descended with great rapidity.
+The view of the country from the river is not pleasing, as the villages
+lie almost invariably far off from the river; the country, therefore,
+has the appearance of being almost uninhabited. We saw great numbers of
+hippopotami, who, in the night, would lift their heads out of the water
+at no great distance from the canja. They were sometimes fired at, but
+without apparent effect. We stopped, during the night, for an hour at
+Shendi, to leave orders from the Pasha to a small garrison of Turkish
+troops stationed there.[66] The river Nile, below the point of junction
+with the great Bahar el Abiud, presents a truly magnificent spectacle.[67]
+Between Halfya and Shendi, the river is straitened and traverses a deep
+and gloomy defile formed by high rocky hills, between which the Nile
+runs dark, deep, and rapidly for about twelve or fifteen miles. On
+emerging from this defile, the river again spreads itself majestically,
+and flows between immense plains of herbage, bounded only by the
+horizon: its banks nearly full, but not yet overflowed. About thirty
+miles above Nousreddin, we passed the mouth of the Bahar el Iswood (on
+the eastern shore); it is the last river that empties into the Nile. I
+estimated it at about two-thirds of a mile broad at its embouchure.
+The Nile, below the point of junction with this river, is more than two
+miles from bank to bank, at this season. During the two first days of
+our voyage, we had some severe squalls and very heavy rains; but after
+passing the territory of Sennaar, we had a sky almost without a cloud.
+
+On our arrival at Nousreddin, no more dromedaries could be immediately
+obtained than were sufficient to mount the courier and his two guides. I
+was, therefore, obliged to tarry five days in Nousreddin before I could
+find a caravan journeying to Egypt.
+
+On the 28th of Shawal, I quitted Nousreddin, along with a caravan on
+its way to Egypt from Sennaar, conducted by a soldier attached to the
+Cadilaskier of the army of Ismael Pasha, who was conducting to Egypt
+twenty-two dromedaries and camels, and some slaves, belonging to the
+Cadilaskier, and four fine horses belonging to the Pasha.
+
+We started at about three hours before noon, and after marching for
+three hours, stopped at a village named Sheraffey, to obtain rations for
+the horses and camels to subsist them through the desert. Our route lay
+on the outside of the villages, and on the border of the desert. The
+villages are numerous and well built of sun-dried bricks, and the face
+of the country, on our side of the river, perfectly level.
+
+We stayed at Sheraffey until the next morning: the conductor of the
+caravan not being able to obtain at this place the durra he wanted for
+his cattle, we proceeded to a village called Hassah, which is about an
+hour's march from Sheraffey. We stayed there till next morning.
+
+On the 30th of the Moon, at day-light, we mounted our camels, and
+proceeded on our road, which lay on the skirts of the desert. We passed
+a continual succession of large, well-built and populous villages, lying
+about a mile distant from the river; the weather serene and cool, as it
+has been since our arrival in Berber. We halted at about the middle of
+the forenoon, by a village called Abdea, until an hour and a half before
+sunset, when we again set forward, and after marching for three hours
+and a half, halted for the remainder of the night in a small village,
+half in ruins. The reason of our short marches and frequent stoppages
+was, to give the conductor of the caravan opportunities to make
+provision for passing the desert. He might have done it at any of the
+villages, had he been content to pay the price demanded; but as he was
+a man who seemed to hold hard bargains in horror, and to love money
+with great affection, he did not give the latter for durra till he was
+absolutely obliged to make the afflictive exchange.
+
+On the 1st of Zilkade we started at daylight, and marched till about two
+hours after sunrise, when we stopped at some villages called Gannettee.
+The country we passed since yesterday is the desert, which comes down
+close to the river's bank, presenting but few spots fit for cultivation.
+We were informed last night, that the camp of Mehemmet Bey, who is on
+his way from Egypt with five thousand men, to take possession of Darfour
+and Kordofan, is on the other side of the river.[68] The weather continues
+serene and not very hot. Stayed at Gannettee till about the middle of
+the afternoon, when we proceeded on our journey through a a desert and
+dreary country, without either habitations or cultivation, as the desert
+comes here down to the river. The rocks and stones of the desert are
+generally of black granite. No verdure was to be seen, except on the
+margin of the river. The river hereabouts is much impeded by rocks and
+rapids, but contains many beautiful islands, some of them very large,
+fertile, populous, and well cultivated. Malek Mohammed el Hadgin
+commands this country. His province, called "El Raba Tab," contains
+eighty-eight large and fertile islands, and the shores of the river
+adjacent. He has a very high character for courage, morals, and
+generosity; he resides on the great island of Mograt, which is said to
+be about sixty miles long.[69]
+
+We halted at about three hours before midnight on the bank of the river,
+within hearing of a Shellal, where the river forms a regular cataract,
+except a small pass on the easterly shore. After reposing the camels an
+hour and a half, and refreshing ourselves with bread and the muddy
+water of the Nile, we recommenced our march, which was continued without
+cessation till an hour before noon next morning, always through the
+desert, in order to cut a point of land formed by an angle in the river,
+when we stopped under the shade of some fine date trees on the bank
+of the river, and in view of one of its large and ever verdant isles,
+called Kandessee, in a small island adjoining which Khalil Aga, my
+companion, says he saw, when he ascended the third cataract,[70] a pyramid
+more modern and fresh than any he had seen in these countries. Possibly
+the island of Kandessee takes its name from the celebrated Candace, who,
+in the reign of Nero, repulsed and defeated the Roman legions, and this
+pyramid may be her tomb. Under the date trees, on the bank of the river
+opposite to this island, we refreshed ourselves with our usual repast,
+bread and water, as the people of a village close by would give us meat
+neither for love, money, nor soap,[71] of which latter article they stand
+in great but unconscious need.
+
+3d of Zilkade quitted our station about two hours after midnight, and
+went on our way. Our route continued to lie through the desert, but not
+far from the bank of the river; about three hours before noon in the
+morning came to a small village, named Haphasheem, lying on the margin
+of the river, opposite a verdant island it was delightful to look
+at. The river on the third cataract, Khalil Aga tells me, contains a
+continual chain of such.[72] I could not get any thing to relish our usual
+repast of bread and water, except some dates.
+
+My eyes to-day were much inflamed by the reflection of the sun's rays
+from the sand, and at night were very painful and running with matter.
+Stayed here till about the same hour after midnight as yesterday, when
+we again set forward. The country the same as yesterday, except that
+we saw several stony mountains in the desert, some of them at no great
+distance from the river. Some of these mountains must contain ruins, as
+at the village where we halted to-day, which we did at about noon, we
+found a very large and well-fashioned burnt brick, which the peasants
+said was brought from one of these mountains. The whole of the country
+through which we have passed for four days contains no cultivable land
+on this side of the river, except on its margin; but in compensation
+for this sterility, the islands in this part of the river, which are
+numerous, very large, and very beautiful, are without a superior for
+luxuriance of vegetation. Every day when we have come to the river to
+halt and refresh ourselves, we found one or more in view. At this last
+station I was lucky enough to purchase a small kid at the enormous price
+of twelve piasters, the first meat we had eaten for four days. Applied
+at night a poultice of dates to my eyes, which were much inflamed by
+today's march, and found some relief from the remedy. At about three
+hours after midnight we again resumed our travel, and marched till an
+hour before noon of to-day, the 5th of Zilkade expecting to arrive at
+the place where the road quits the river, and plunges into the great
+eastern desert of Africa; but the weather becoming close and very hot,
+and the camels fatigued, we halted to repose them and ourselves on the
+bank of the river. Shortly after our arrival two of the camels of the
+caravan died. Our route still lay through plains and over hills of rock
+and sand, which come down to the river's edge, but the river, as usual,
+presented a continual succession of beautiful islands.
+
+The death of the two camels having alarmed the conductor of the caravan
+for the others, we stayed in this place till the middle of the second
+day after to repose and refresh them previous to entering the desert.
+During our stay here I engaged a man to swim over to the island
+opposite, to purchase some durra flour and dates. He could, however,
+obtain only some dates. I was obliged, in consequence, to reconcile
+myself to entering the desert short of provisions. I had made provision
+in Berber for fifteen days, being assured that in twelve days we should
+have passed the desert, and arrive at the villages on the bank of the
+Nile four days march above Assuan. The unexpected retardments of our
+march from Berber had, however, made us nine days in arriving at the
+place where the road turns into the desert. On the 7th of the moon, at
+about two hours before sunset, we quitted our halting-place, and after
+only one hour's march by the border of the river came to a place where
+the Nile suddenly turns off toward the south-west.[73] At this place the
+guide told us we were to fill our waterskins, and to quit the river for
+the desert.
+
+We stayed here till the afternoon of the 8th of the moon.
+
+The two last nights we have kept watch, and only slept with our hands
+upon our arms, robbers being, we were told, in this neighborhood, who
+had lately pillaged some caravans. We were not, however, molested. The
+desert, on the border of the river hereabouts, abounds with doum trees,
+which are inhabited by great numbers of monkeys. Its fruit furnishes
+their food. This fruit consists in a large nut, on the outside covered
+with a brown substance almost exactly resembling burned gingerbread.
+It is, however, so hard that no other teeth and jaws, except those of a
+monkey or an Arab, are well capable of biting it. About one hour's march
+below our present position is an encampment of Bedouins and the tomb
+of a Marabout. The people of the country and the caravans had piled his
+grave with camels' and asses saddles, probably intended as offerings to
+interest his good offices in the other world.
+
+At about four hours after the noon of the 8th, we quitted the banks of
+the Nile, and turned into the desert, carrying as much water as we well
+could, myself taking four water-skins for myself, Khalil Aga, and a
+black slave of mine. We marched till about an hour before midnight,
+when we halted for an hour to breathe the camels and to eat a morsel of
+bread, after which we continued our way till nearly day-break, when
+one of the Pasha's horses falling down and refusing to rise, it was
+necessary to wait till the animal had taken a little rest. We threw
+ourselves upon the sand, and slept profoundly for two hours, when we
+were roused to continue our journey. We proceeded till about two hours
+before noon, when we halted in a low sandy plain, sprinkled here and
+there with thorny bushes. These bushes afforded food for the camels, and
+a miserable shelter from the sun for ourselves. We shoved embodies under
+them as closely to their roots as the thorns would admit, to sleep as
+well sheltered as possible from the burning rays of the vertical sun.
+But sound sleep in this condition was impossible, as every half-hour
+the sun advancing in his course contracted or changed the shadow of the
+bush, and obliged us to change our position; as to sleep in his rays
+in this climate is not only almost impossible but dangerous, it almost
+infallibly producing a fever of the brain.
+
+The country we traversed this first day's journey is a level plain of
+sand and gravel, with scattered mountains of black granite here and
+there in view, where no sound is heard but the rush of the wind. The
+weather was cool enough during the day, and coldish in the night.[74] In
+the afternoon we again set forward, proceeding and halting as yesterday,
+viz. once for an hour about two hours before midnight, and once again a
+little before day-break for an hour and a half. The desert continued to
+exhibit the same aspect as before till about midnight, when we quitted
+the plains to enter among gloomy defiles, winding between mountains of
+black granite. We passed one chain, and at a little beyond the entrance
+of another, lying about two leagues to the north of the first, the guide
+told us that we were near the well Apseach; soon after we arrived at a
+place containing bushes. Here the caravan halted, and those who wanted
+fresh water filled their water-skins from the well which lies in the
+mountains, about an hour's march from the place where we halted. This
+well is at the bottom of an oblique passage leading into one of the
+mountains, at the termination of which is found no great quantity of
+sweet water deposited by the rains which fall in this country about the
+time of the summer solstice.[75] During the last two days I traveled in
+great pain; the reflection of the sun from the sand, and the strong wind
+from the north (prevalent at this season in the desert), which blew its
+finer particles into my eyes, in spite of all my precautions to shelter
+them, exasperated and inflamed their malady to a great degree, which
+the want of sufficient shelter from the sun, during the time of repose,
+contributed to aggravate.
+
+We stayed near the well till about sunset, when we resumed our travel,
+and at about three hours after sunrise on the morning of the 10th, came
+to a rock in a sandy plain, where the conductor of the caravan ordered
+a halt. We distributed ourselves round this rock as well as we could, in
+order to repose;[76] Khalil Aga and myself making a covering from the
+sun by means of my carpet, propped up by our fusees and fastened by the
+corners to stones we placed upon the rock, by means of our shawls and
+sashes. We stayed here till the middle of the afternoon, when we mounted
+our camels in order to reach the well Morat as soon as possible, in
+order to water those patient and indispensable voyagers of the desert.[77]
+We traversed a tolerably level but rocky tract till about two hours
+after midnight, when we reached the well. It lies in a valley between
+two high chains of mountains of black granite. Its water is somewhat
+bitter, as its name imports, and is not drank by travelers except when
+their water-skins are exhausted. It serves, however, for the camels
+of the caravans, and for the inhabitants of two Arab villages in the
+vicinity, named "Abu Hammak" and "Dohap" who brought their camels to
+water here the morning after our arrival. These poor but contented
+people are obliged to subsist, for the most part, upon their camels'
+milk, their situation affording little other means of nourishment. They
+are, however, independent, and remote from the tyranny and oppression
+which afflicts the people of most of the countries of the east.[78]
+
+On the rocks near the well we saw some rude hieroglyphics, representing
+bulls, horses, and camels, cut in the granite, in the manner of those
+found in the rocks near Assuan, on the south side of the cataract. Our
+guide tells us that such cuttings in the rocks are found in many of the
+mountains of the desert.
+
+During our stay at Morat a violent dispute had arisen among the Arabs of
+our caravan about some money which had been stolen from one of them. The
+man suspected of the theft endeavored to justify himself by much hard
+swearing, but circumstances being strong against him, I told the man
+who had been robbed, that if the money was not restored previous to our
+arrival at Assuan, I would speak to the Cacheff about the affair,
+who would take the proper measures to detect and punish the thief.
+In consequence of this menace, the man robbed, next morning had the
+satisfaction to find unexpectedly that his money had been secretly
+restored and deposited among the baggage, from whence it had been
+stolen.
+
+On the 13th, at sunset, we quitted Morat; and after a winding march
+among the hills for five hours, we arrived at a broad valley, surrounded
+by high mountains and abounding in doum trees, the first we had seen
+since we quitted the river. This place is called "El Medina." It
+contains an Arab village, whose inhabitants gain something by supplying
+the caravans with goats, of which they have many, and by furnishing
+them with water, of which they possess several reservoirs filled by the
+rains. We reposed for the rest of the night under the doum trees, and
+in the morning regaled ourselves with the pure and wholesome water of
+El Medina, which was to me particularly grateful after being obliged to
+drink, for several days, either the muddy water we had brought from
+the river, or that of Apseach, which had become heated by the sun, and
+impregnated with a disgusting smell, derived from the new leather of the
+water-bags which contained it. I bought here a fat goat and some milk,
+which made us a feast, which hunger and several days fasting on bad
+bread made delicious.
+
+We stayed here to water and repose the camels till the afternoon of
+the second day after our arrival, when we recommenced our march for the
+river, whose distance we were told was three days march from El Medina.
+During our stay at El Medina, Khalil Aga my companion was taken very ill
+with vomiting and purging, occasioned by having drank of the water of
+Morat, against which I had remonstrated without effect. He did not get
+quit of the consequences of his imprudence for several days.
+
+On the 15th, in the afternoon, we commenced our march for the river. The
+desert hereabouts resembles that we passed the two first days after our
+quitting the river, being a sandy plain studded with hills and mountains
+of granite. We proceeded till about three hours after midnight, when we
+lay down to repose till day-break, when we again mounted and continued
+our journey till two hours before noon, when we stopped at a rock which
+had some holes in it, where we sheltered ourselves from the sun, and
+dined with appetite on some coarse durra bread baked upon camel's dung.
+
+By the middle of the afternoon we were again on our way, which led
+through the deep and winding valleys of three mountains of calcareous
+stone, which indicated the proximity of the river, and over hills of
+deep sand, with which the eddies of the wind had in many places filled
+those valleys. Since we left Morat till we came to these mountains the
+granite hills had become rarer, others of calcareous stone here and
+there presented themselves, and the level of the desert was constantly
+ascending[79] I have no doubt that the level of the interior of the
+desert is lower than the bed of the river.
+
+During the passage over these hills several of the camels gave out, that
+of my black slave among the rest.[80] Four hours after sunrise we came to
+a valley, where there was here and there some herbs of the desert, where
+we stopped to let the camels eat, they having fasted since we left El
+Medina.
+
+We were obliged to look among the rocks for shelter from the sun, each
+one arranging himself as well as he could to eat durra bread and drink
+warm water, and sleep as soundly as possible. During the course of last
+night we fell in with a caravan coming from Assuan; we pressed round
+them to buy something to eat; we asked for dates and flour to make
+bread, but they had nothing of the kind that they could afford to part
+with.
+
+We stayed at the rock before mentioned till the middle of the afternoon.
+On awaking from sleep, I observed two of the Arabs of our caravan busily
+employed about our guide. They were a long time engaged in frizzing
+and plaiting his hair, and finished the operation by pouring over it a
+bowlful of melted mutton suet, which made his head quite white. I asked
+for the meaning of this operation at this time; they told me that
+we should be at the river to-morrow morning, and that our guide was
+adorning himself to see and salute his friends there. He appeared to be
+highly satisfied with the efforts of his hair-dressers to make him look
+decent, and it must be confessed that he made a very buckish appearance.
+
+As soon as our guide had finished his toilette, he mounted his dromedary
+and took his post in front, and we set forward. We marched all night
+without stopping, which was necessary, as our water was nearly spent,[81]
+but which distressed greatly that part of our caravan who had no beast
+to ride.[82] These wretched men had hitherto accompanied us all the way on
+foot, with little to eat and less to drink. At present they were almost
+exhausted with fatigue, hunger and thirst. Every now and then, one or
+more of them would throw himself on the sand in despair. The repeated
+assurance that the river was near, hour after hour, became less and less
+capable of rousing them to exertion, and the whip was at length applied
+to make them get up and go on.[83] They demanded water immediately, which
+we were too short of ourselves to give them, as we feared every minute
+that our camels would drop, which would render every drop of water we
+had as precious as life.
+
+One unfortunate lad, who had joined the caravan before it entered the
+desert, I suspect a domestic who had fled from the distresses that had
+found us in the upper countries, made pathetic applications to me for
+water; I twice divided with him a bowlful I was drinking, "in the name
+of God, the protector of the traveler."
+
+This young man, in the course of this toilsome night, had disappeared,
+having doubtless laid himself down in despair. We unfortunately did not
+miss him till it was too late.[84] About two hours before day-break we
+reached the entrance of a deep ravine, between ridges and hills of
+rocks. We marched in it for six hours. It zigzagged perpetually, and
+its bottom was covered with fragments of the rocks that enclosed it, and
+which had apparently been displaced by strong currents of water. This
+phenomenon surprised me, as the entrance into this ravine being from
+the plain, it was evident that the currents which had produced these
+displacements could not at any era have come from thence. But at the
+termination of this ravine, which ended nearly at the river, the cause
+became evident. An ancient canal, now nearly filled up, leads from the
+river into this ravine, and the rush of the current during the seasons
+of inundation, has loosened and displaced fragments of the bordering
+mountains.
+
+It was about two hours before noon on the 18th of Zilkade, when,
+emerging from this ravine, we came upon the bank of the beautiful
+and blessed river, which is the very heart and life's blood of all
+north-eastern Africa. It was with the most grateful feelings toward "the
+Lord of the universe," that I laid myself down under the date trees
+by its brink to cool and to wash my swollen and inflamed eyes, whose
+disorder was greatly increased by fatigue, a dazzling sun, and want of
+sleep.
+
+Immediately after our arrival at the little village of Seboo,[85] which
+stands on the canal leading to the ravine before mentioned, myself and
+Khalil Aga addressed ourselves to the people of the village to engage
+some one to go and bring to the river the unfortunate lad who had been
+missed. I told them that, in two hours, a man mounted on a dromedary
+could reach the place where he had disappeared, and save his life: I
+appealed to their humanity, to their sense of duty towards God and man,
+to engage them to go and save him. Finding them deaf to my entreaties,
+I offered them money, and Khalil Aga his musket, to bring him safe and
+sound to the river. I appealed to their humanity in vain, and to their
+avarice without effect.[86] We told them that the Christians, in a case
+of this kind, would send not one but forty men, if necessary, to go and
+save a fellow creature from the horrible death of desert famine; and
+that heaven would surely require at their hands the life of this young
+man, if they neglected to save him At length the Sheck of the village
+promised me to send a dromedary to the place to-morrow morning. He made
+the promise probably to appease my reproaches, for he did not fulfill
+it.
+
+On the second day after my arrival, I dipped my feet and slippers into
+the Nile, and bequeathing the village of Seboo my most hearty curse,
+(which God fulfill!) embarked on board a boat on its way from Dongola to
+Egypt, and in three days reached Assuan.[87]
+
+THE END
+
+London Printed by C. Roworth Bell Yard, Temple Bar
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 1: For instance, a navigable passage has been cut through the
+rocks of the First Cataract, and a canal is at present constructing,
+by order of the Pasha, round some of the most difficult passes of
+the Second. He has completed a broad and deep canal from the Nile to
+Alexandria, by which commerce is liberated from the risk attending the
+passage of the Boghaz of Rosetta. Large establishments for the fabric
+of saltpeter, gunpowder, cannon and small arms, others for the fabric
+of silks, cotton and sugar, have been erected by the Viceroy, and are in
+operation under the superintendence of Europeans.]
+
+[Footnote 2: Their names are as follows:--Succoot, Machass, Dongola,
+Shageia, Monasier, Isyout, Rab-a-Tab, Berber, Shendi, Halfya, the
+kingdoms of Sennaar, Darfour, and Kordofan; at present, all subject to
+the conqueror of Egypt and Arabia.]
+
+
+[Footnote 3: Mr. Frediani, an Italian*, and Messrs. Caillaud and
+Constant, the latter sent out by His Most Christian Majesty, have
+accompanied our camp to Sennaar, where I left them in good health. To
+Messrs. Caillaud and Constant, particularly, I am indebted for much
+cordiality and friendship, which it is a pleasure to me to acknowledge.
+The geographical positions of the most important places on the Upper
+Nile have been ascertained by Mr. Constant, who is provided with an
+excellent set of instruments, with great care and the most indefatigable
+pains, of which I myself have been a witness. His observations will
+doubtless be a most valuable acquisition to geography.]
+
+* Since dead in Sennaar, This unfortunate man died a chained maniac, in
+consequence of violent fever.]
+
+
+[Footnote 4: Corresponding to the end of September, or the former part
+of October, A.C. 1820.]
+
+[Footnote 5: This force may be thus enumerated: ten pieces of field
+artillery, one mortar 8 inch caliber, and two small howitzers, attached
+to which were one hundred and twenty cannoneers; three hundred Turkish
+infantry and seven hundred Mogrebin ditto; the remainder of the army
+Turkish and Bedouin cavalry, together with a corps of Abbadies mounted
+on dromedaries.]
+
+
+[Footnote 6: Called the Shellal of Semne.]
+
+[Footnote 7: Called the Shellal of Ambigool.]
+
+[Footnote 8: Called the Shellal of Tongaroo.]
+
+[Footnote 9: Called the Shellal of Dal.]
+
+[Footnote 10: I have been informed that about two miles northward of
+this place, on the west side of the river, is to be seen a curious
+vaulted edifice, having the interior of its walls in many places covered
+with paintings. My informants believed that it was anciently a Christian
+monastery. This is possible, as the ruins of several are to be seen on
+the Third Cataract, and, as I have been told, on the Second also.]
+
+[Footnote 11: About seventy miles above Wady Haifa.]
+
+[Footnote 12: I cannot help smiling in copying off this part of my
+journal, at the little account I made of "bread rice and lentils," at
+the commencement of the campaign. Before I left Sennaar, I have been
+more than once obliged to take a part of my horse's rations of durra to
+support nature. He ate his portion raw and I boiled mine. The causes
+of such distress were that the natives of the Upper country would
+frequently refuse to sell us any thing for our dirty colored piastres of
+Egypt, and the Pasha would allow nobody to steal but himself. "Steal" a
+fico for the phrase. The wise "convey it call," says ancient Pistol, an
+old soldier who had seen hard times in the wars.]
+
+[Footnote 13: These were the rapids of Dall.]
+
+[Footnote 14: In every dangerous pass, we invariably saw one or more of
+our boats wrecked.]
+
+[Footnote 15: It is called Gamatee.]
+
+[Footnote 16: The middle of the Upper Nile is generally occupied by an
+almost continued range of islands.]
+
+[Footnote 17: I learned afterwards from Khalil Aga, the American, who
+accompanied me to Sennaar and back again to Egypt, and who visited tins
+spot, that this column made a part of the ruins of an ancient temple,
+where are to be seen two colossal statues. I set out the next day with
+him to visit this place, but being then only convalescent from a bloody
+flux which had reduced my strength, I found myself too weak to reach the
+place, and returned to the boat.]
+
+[Footnote 18: The river continues in the same general direction as high
+up as the island of Mograt, on the Third Cataract, when it resumes a
+course more south and north. The length of this bend is probably not
+less than two hundred and fifty miles.]
+
+[Footnote 19: i.e. The bank on our left-hand ascending the river.]
+
+[Footnote 20: A more particular account of this battle will be given
+hereafter, in the course of the narrative.]
+
+[Footnote 21: These gentlemen were Messrs. Waddington and Hanbury,
+who, after staying a short time in our camp, returned to Egypt. Mr.
+Waddington, on his return to England, published an account of his
+travels on the upper Nile, in which, having been misled by the tongue
+of some mischievous enemy of mine, he gave an account of me not a little
+fabulous. On my arrival in London, I wrote to Mr. Waddington what he
+was pleased to call a "manly and temperate letter," informing him of
+his error, representing to him the serious injury it might do me, and
+calling upon him for a justification or an apology. Mr. Waddington, in
+the manner best becoming an English gentleman, frankly gave me both,
+concluding with the following expressions--"I feel the most sincere and
+profound sorrow for the unintentional injustice into which I have been
+betrayed by too hasty a belief of false information. For this I am as
+anxious to make you reparation, as I am incapable of doing any person a
+willful injury. I will therefore cause the note in question to be erased
+in the following editions of my book; and in the remaining copies of the
+present, I will instantly insert a new page or sheet, if necessary;
+or should that be impossible, I will immediately destroy the whole
+impression." It was impossible for me, after this, to retain any of
+the angry feelings excited by this affair, excepting towards "the false
+tongue" that occasioned it, on which I cordially imprecate a plentiful
+portion of the "sharp arrows of the mighty and coals of juniper."]
+
+[Footnote 22: The desperate courage of these wretched peasants was
+astonishing; they advanced more than once to the muzzles of the cannon,
+and wounded some of the cannoneers in the act of re-loading their guns.
+Notwithstanding their efforts, such was the disparity of their arms
+against cannon and fire-arms, that only one of the Pasha's soldiers was
+killed, and they are said to have lost seven hundred in the battle and
+during the pursuit.]
+
+[Footnote 23: I say "shot down," for the saber was found an unavailing
+weapon, as these people are so adroit in the management of their shields
+that they parried every stroke. I have seen upon the field where this
+battle was fought several shields that had not less than ten or fifteen
+saber cuts, each lying upon the dead body of the man who carried it, who
+had evidently died by three or four balls shot into him. The soldiers
+have told me that they had frequently to empty their carabine and
+pistols upon one man before he would fall.]
+
+[Footnote 24: When our troops approached the castle of Malek Zibarra,
+his daughter, a girl of about fifteen, fled in such haste that she
+dropped one of her sandals, which I have seen. It was a piece of
+workmanship as well wrought as any thing of the kind could be even
+in Europe. The girl was taken prisoner and brought to the Pasha, who
+clothed her magnificently in the Turkish fashion and sent her to her
+father, desiring her to tell him to "come and surrender himself, as he
+preferred to have brave men for his friends than for his enemies." When
+the girl arrived at the camp of Zibarra, the first question her father
+asked her was, "My child, in approaching your father, do you bring your
+honor with you?" "Yes," replied the girl, "otherwise I should not dare
+to look upon you. The Pasha has treated me as his child, has clothed
+me as you see, and desires that you would leave war to make peace with
+him." Zibarra was greatly affected, and did make several efforts to
+effect a peace with the Pasha, which were traversed and frustrated by
+the other chiefs of the Shageias.]
+
+[Footnote 25: Khalil Aga, who has passed the whole of the third
+Cataract, found in several of the islands there ruins which were
+probably those of monasteries, as he found there many of the stones
+covered with Greek inscriptions, one of which he brought to me; I was
+obliged to abandon it on the route, on the dying of the camel that
+carried it.]
+
+[Footnote 26: On my return to Egypt, I presented Mr. Salt with several
+specimens, which are now in his possession.]
+
+[Footnote 27: To which all the troops had been concentrated.]
+
+[Footnote 28: It has been found, however, possible to pass the whole of
+the third cataract, in boats not drawing more than three feet of water,
+by the aid of all the male population on its shores, who, by the aid of
+ropes, dragged up nine boats, which arrived in Berber before the Pasha
+commenced his march for Sennaar. They were fifty-seven days in getting
+from the island of Kendi to Berber. Every one of them was repeatedly
+damaged in getting through the passages.]
+
+[Footnote 29: I have been informed that, previous to the advance of
+the Pasha Ismael from Wady Halfa, deputies from the chiefs of Shageia
+arrived in the camp to demand of the Pasha, "for what reason he menaced
+them with war?" The Pasha replied, "because you are robbers, who live
+by disturbing and pillaging all the countries around your own." They
+replied, "that they had no other means to live." The Pasha answered,
+"cultivate your land, and live honestly." They replied with great
+naivete, "we have been bred up to live and prosper by what you call
+robbery; we will not work, and cannot change our manner of living," The
+Pasha replied, "I will make you change it."]
+
+[Footnote 30: The number of the old Mamalukes of Egypt was reduced, at
+the time of our arrival in Berber, to less than one hundred persons.
+They had, however, some hundreds of blacks, whom they had trained up in
+their discipline.]
+
+[Footnote 31: I am happy to add that these relics of the renowned
+cavalry of Egypt are now residing there in ease and in honor; the
+promises of the Pasha Ismael having been fulfilled by his father to the
+letter.]
+
+[Footnote 32: It is a singular circumstance, that the chiefs of Dongola,
+Shageia, Berber, Shendi, and Halfya; should bear the same title as used
+in the Hebrew bible, to designate the petty sovereigns of Canaan.]
+
+[Footnote 33: The Shageia cavalry, however, wore these cloths cut and
+made into long shirts, in order, probably, to have the freer management
+of their lances, shields, and broad swords. It should also be stated,
+that the Maleks or chiefs of the Upper Nile, were generally habited in
+fine blue or white shirts, brought from Egypt.]
+
+[Footnote 34: The same circumstance of dress is common also among
+the peasants of both sexes of Dongola, Shageia, and along the third
+cataract, with this addition, that they not only anoint the head, but
+also the whole body with butter, they say it protects them from the
+heat; that employed by the personages of consideration is perfumed.
+Every Malek has a servant charged with the particular care of a box of
+this ointment. On our march to Sennaar, whither we were accompanied by
+the Malek of Shendy, I could wind this servant of his a mile off.]
+
+[Footnote 35: I never in my life saw such noble and beautiful specimens
+of the species as were these two horses; they were stallions, eighteen
+hands high, beautifully formed, of high courage and superb gait. When
+mounted, they tossed their flowing manes aloft higher than the heads
+of their turbaned riders, and a man might place his two fists in their
+expanded nostrils; they were worthy to have carried Ali and Khaled to
+"the war of God."]
+
+[Footnote 36: I feel myself, however, bound in conscience to tell the
+whole truth of this affair. In perambulating about the town, in the
+course of the day, which was very hot, I got affected by a coup de
+soleil, which gave me a violent fever and head-ache. I have strong
+suspicions that this circumstance acted as a powerful "preventer stay"
+to my virtue, and enabled me to put the devil to flight on this trying
+occasion. The mother of these damsels appeared to be edified by the
+discourse I made to her upon the subject of her proposal, but the young
+women plainly told me, that I was "rajil batal," i.e. a man good for
+nothing. If they could have understood Latin, I should have told them,
+
+"Quodcunque ostendes mihi sic-k Invalidus odi."]
+
+
+[Footnote 37: The ordinary price of a virgin wife in Berber, is a horse,
+which the bridegroom is obliged to present to the father of the girl he
+demands in marriage. I remember asking a young peasant, of whom I bought
+some provisions one day in Berber, "why he did not marry?" He pointed to
+a colt in the yard, and told me that "when the colt became big enough,
+he should take a wife."]
+
+[Footnote 38: This learned soldier somewhat surprised me, on my
+demanding "why he did not give the title of Caliph to the Padischah?"
+by answering that there had been no Caliph since Ali, and that the
+Padischah was only "Emir el Moumenim," i.e. "commander of the true
+believers."]
+
+[Footnote 39: This word is Hebrew, and signifies "a lamb."]
+
+[Footnote 40: Abdin Cacheff is a very brave and respectable man, of
+about fifty years of age. He treated me with great politeness and
+consideration. He distinguished himself greatly at the battle near
+Courty, fighting Ills way into the mass of the enemy and out again,
+twice or thrice on that day.]
+
+[Footnote 41: In order to save the artillery horses for the exigencies
+of battle, the cannon were drawn by camels from the third cataract to
+Sennaar, and the horses were led harnessed by their respective guns,
+ready to be clapped on if necessary. I venture to recommend the same
+procedure in all marches of artillery in the east.]
+
+[Footnote 42: The other side of the river, at least as often and as far
+as we could see it, presented the same appearance. The only mountains we
+saw on the other side of the river, were those of "Attar Baal," at the
+foot of which (they lie near the river, about three days march north of
+Shendi) are, as I have learned, to be seen the ruins of a city, temples,
+and fifty-four pyramids. This, I am inclined to believe, was the site of
+the famous Meroe, the capital of the island of that name. The territory
+in which these ruins are found is in fact nearly surrounded by rivers,
+being bounded on the west by the Nile, on the south by the rivers Ratt
+and Dander, and on the north by the Bahar el Uswood. All these three
+rivers empty into the Nile.]
+
+[Footnote 43: The butter of the countries on the Upper Nile is liquid,
+like that of Egypt. That, however, which they use to anoint themselves
+is of the color and consistence of European butter. We used the latter
+in preference, in our cookery.]
+
+[Footnote 44: It includes a great part of the ancient Isle of Meroe.]
+
+[Footnote 45: Malek Shouus, on learning that the Malek of Shendi had
+made his peace with the Pasha, threatened to attack him. On this it
+is said the Malek of Shendi called out twenty thousand men to line the
+easterly bank of the Nile, to prevent the approach of Shouus. Shouus,
+however, had the whole country of Shendi on the western side entirely
+under his control before our arrival, he and his cavalry devouring their
+provisions and drinking their bouza at a most unmerciful rate. On our
+approach, he went up opposite Halfya, where the country, on the western
+shore, is desert. He demanded of the chief of Halfya, to supply him with
+provisions: on his refusal, Shouus, in the night, swam the river with
+his cavalry, fell upon the town of Halfya by surprise, and ransacked it
+from end to end, and then repassed the river before the chief of Halfya
+could collect a force to take his revenge. The cavalry of Shouus, in the
+course of the campaign, have swam over the Nile five times: both horse
+and man are trained to do this thing, inimitable, I believe, by any
+other cavalry in the world. Shouus, since his joining us, has rendered
+very important services to the Pasha, as he is thoroughly acquainted
+with the strength, resources, and riches of all the tribes of the Nile,
+from the second Cataract to Sennaar and Darfour: his horses' feet are
+familiar with the sod and sand of all these countries, which he and
+his freebooters have repeatedly traversed. On our march from Berber
+to Shendi, I ran some risk of falling into his hands, as Shouus was
+continually prowling about in our neighborhood, from the time of our
+quitting Berber. Two nights before we reached Shendi, I stopped on the
+route, at a village, to take some refreshment, letting the army go by
+me. About an hour and a half after, I mounted my horse to follow the
+troops, but, owing to the state of my eyes, I missed my way, after
+wandering back-wards and forwards to find the track of the troops, about
+two hours after midnight, I descried the rockets always thrown aloft
+during our night marches, to direct all stragglers to the place where
+the Pasha had encamped. I put my horse to his speed, and arrived there a
+little before dawn.]
+
+[Footnote 46: During the night of the 22d, I received an order from
+the Pasha to precede the march of the troops, and pick out a spot near
+Halfya to encamp his army on, in the European manner. Mr. Caillaud was
+requested to accompany me in this duty. Mr. Caillaud candidly told me
+that he was not a military man, and left the affair entirely to me. I
+chose a fine position on the river, about two miles above Halfya, in the
+rear of which was plenty of grass for the horses and camels. The Pasha,
+however, did not choose to come so far, but pitched his camp on the low
+sand flats before Halfya, near which there was no grass for the camels,
+who, during the five days following, perished in great numbers. He had
+undoubtedly his reasons for this, among which not the least important
+was, to be near enough to Halfya to have the town within reach of his
+cannon, as the Malek of Halfya had not as yet submitted. The Pasha,
+however, had like to have had serious cause to repent of having taken
+this position, when the river rose, and threatened to inundate his camp.
+Luckily it did not reach the ammunition, otherwise we should probably
+have been left without the means of defending ourselves.
+
+This overflowing of the Nile was occasioned by the rise of the Bahar
+el Abiud, which, this year at least, commenced its annual augmentation
+nearly a month sooner than the Nile.]
+
+[Footnote 47: The troops of Shouus and the Abbadies swam their horses
+and dromedaries over the river. Cogia Achmet, one of the chiefs of the
+army, in endeavoring to imitate the cavalry of Shageia, lost seventy
+horses and some soldiers. The rest of the horses and camels of the army
+were taken over by arranging them by the sides of the boats, with their
+halters held in hand by the people in the boats. Another large portion
+of our horses and camels was taken over by the Shageias and the
+Abbadies, who fastened at the breast of each horse, and over the neck of
+each camel of ours, so carried over, an empty water-skin blown up with
+air, which prevented the animal from sinking, while their guides swam by
+their sides, and so conducted them over.]
+
+[Footnote 48: The same day that the camp marched from the Bahar el
+Abiud, Mr. Caillaud and Mr. Frediani embarked in the boats to go to
+Sennaar, by the river, in order to have an opportunity of visiting the
+ruins of "Soba," which lie on the east side of the Nile, not far above
+from its junction with the Bahar el Abiud. When these gentlemen rejoined
+us at Sennaar, they informed me that almost the very ruins of this city
+have perished; they found, however, there some fragments of a temple,
+and of some granite, statues of lions: the city itself, they said, had
+been built of brick. This city of "Soba" probably takes its name from
+"Saba," the son of Cush, who first colonized this country, which is
+called, in the Hebrew Bible, "the land of Cush and Saba."--See Gen. x.
+7. See the references in a Concordance to the Hebrew Bible, under the
+heads of "Cush," and "Saba."
+
+If there were any pyramids near Saba, I should believe it to be the
+ancient Meroe, because Josephus represents that the ancient name of
+Meroe was "Saba." "Nam Saba urbs eadem fuisse perhibetur quae a Cambyse
+Meroe in uxoris honorem dicta est:" quoted from Eichom's ed. of Sim.
+Heb. Lex. artic. Sameh Bet Alef
+
+It was impossible for me to ask of the Pasha liberty to accompany the
+gentlemen abovementioned, as a battle was expected in a few days between
+us and the king of Sennaar, from which I would not have been absent on
+any consideration.]
+
+[Footnote 49: The people of Dongola, Shageia, Berber, Shendi, and
+Sennaar, do not use mills to make meal. They reduce grain to meal by
+rubbing it a handful at a time between two stones--one fixed in the
+ground, and one held by the hands. By long and tedious friction, the
+grain is reduced to powder. This labor is performed by the women, as is
+almost all the drudgery of the people of the Upper Nile.]
+
+[Footnote 50: On my return from Sennaar, I descended by the river as far
+as Berber. On the way I did see some few water-wheels, which, however,
+were employed merely to water the patches of ground devoted to raising
+vegetables.]
+
+[Footnote 51: The Pasha had invited the Malek of Shendi and the Malek of
+Halfya to accompany him to Sennaar. The Malek of Halfya excused himself
+on account of his age and infirmities, but sent his eldest son along
+with the Pasha. By this stroke of policy the Pasha made the tranquility
+of the powerful provinces of Shendi and Halfya certain; and the advance
+of his army without risk from an insurrection in his rear; as the people
+of those provinces would hardly dare to make any hostile movement while
+the chief of one province and the heir of the Malek of the other were in
+our camp. Nymmer, the Malek of Shendi, is a grave and venerable man
+of about 65 years of age, very dignified in his deportment, and highly
+respectable for his morals. The Malek of Halfya I have not seen.]
+
+[Footnote 52: The present Sultan of Sennaar is a young man of about 26
+years of age; he is black, his mother having been a Egress. He was taken
+out of prison, where he had been confined for eighteen years by his
+predecessor, who was massacred by the party who placed him upon the
+throne. This revolution had taken place not very long before our march
+to Sennaar. His name is Bady.]
+
+[Footnote 53: The natives told me that this palace had been built
+eighteen years ago, by the late good Sultan that they had had, who
+had planted before it rows of trees, which had been destroyed when
+the palace was ruined, as I understood them, in the wars between the
+different competitors for the throne during the last eighteen years.]
+
+[Footnote 54: The river Nile lost its transparency four days before the
+army reached Sennaar. The day that presents the river troubled, marks
+the commencement of its augmentation. The day before we observed this
+change in the Nile, its waters were very clear and transparent. The day
+after, they were brown with mud.]
+
+[Footnote 55: Sennaar has three market-places. On our arrival we found
+them deserted, but on assurances from the Pasha that all sellers should
+receive a fair price for their commodities, the principal one in a few
+days began to be filled. The articles I saw there during my stay in
+Sennaar, were as follows: Meat of camels, kine, sheep, and goats; a few
+cat-fish from the river, plenty of a vegetable called meholakea; some
+limes, a few melons, cucumbers, dried barmea, a vegetable common in
+Egypt; beans, durra, duchan, tobacco of the country, plenty of gum
+arable, with which, by the way, Sennaar abounds, (the natives use it
+in their cookery;) drugs and spices brought from Gidda, among which
+I observed ginger, pepper, and cloves; and great quantities of dried
+odoriferous herbs found in Sennaar, with which the natives season their
+dishes; to which must be added, aplenty of the long cotton cloths used
+for dress in Sennaar. Such were the articles offered for sale by the
+people of the country. In addition to which, the suttlers of our army
+offered for sale, tobacco, coffee, rice, sugar, shirts, drawers, shoes,
+gun flints, &c. &c. all at a price three or four times greater than
+they could be bought for at Cairo. In some parts of the market-place
+the Turks established coffee-houses, and the Greeks who accompanied
+the army, cook-shops. These places became the resort of every body who
+wanted to buy something to eat, or to hear the news of the day. There
+might be seen soldiers in their shirts and drawers, hawking about their
+breeches for sale in order to be able to buy a joint of meat to relish
+their rations of durra withal, and cursing bitterly their luck in that
+they had not received any pay for eight months; while the solemn Turk of
+rank perambulated the area, involved, like pious Eneas at Carthage, in
+a veil of clouds exhaling from a long amber headed pipe. All around you
+you might hear much hard swearing in favor of the most palpable lies;
+the seller in favor of his goods, and the buyer in favor of his Egyptian
+piasters. In one place a crowd collects around somebody or other lying
+on the ground without his head on, on account of some misdemeanor; a
+little farther on, thirty or forty soldiers are engaged in driving, with
+repeated strokes of heavy mallets, sharp pointed pieces of timber, six
+or eight inches square, up the posteriors of some luckless insurgents
+who had had the audacity to endeavor to defend their country and their
+liberty; the women of the country meantime standing at a distance, and
+exclaiming, "that it was scandalous to make men die in so indecent a
+manner, and protesting that such a death was only fit for a Christian,"
+(a character they hold in great abhorrence, probably from never having
+seen one). Such was the singular scene presented to the view by the
+market-place of Sennaar.]
+
+[Footnote 56: The occasion of this expedition was as follows:--On our
+arrival at Sennaar, and after the accord made between the Pasha and the
+Sultan of Sennaar, by which the latter surrendered his kingdom to the
+disposal of the Vizier of the Grand Seignor, the Pasha sent circulars
+throughout all the districts of the kingdom notifying the chiefs of this
+act, and summoning them to come in to him and render their homage. The
+Chief of the Mountaineers, inhabiting the mountains south and south-west
+of Sennaar (the capital), not only refused to acknowledge the Pasha, but
+even to receive his letter. On this, the Pasha sent Cogia Achmet, one
+of the roughest of his chiefs, with thirteen hundred cavalry, escorting
+three, brazen-faced lawyers, out of the ten the Pasha had brought with
+him in order to talk with the people of the upper country, to bring this
+man and his followers to reason.]
+
+
+[Footnote 57: Several of the chiefs of Eastern Sennaar had refused to
+recognize the act of the Sultan, calling him "a coward" and "a traitor,"
+for surrendering their country to a stranger. Some of them took up arms,
+which occasioned the expedition commanded by the Divan Effendi.]
+
+[Footnote 58: I must confess that I was much shocked and disgusted by
+this act on the part of the Pasha, especially as he had shown so many
+traits of humanity in the lower country, which was undoubtedly one
+of the principal causes of its prompt submission. This execution was
+excused in the camp, by saying, that it would strike such terror as
+would repress all attempts at insurrection, and would consequently
+prevent the effusion of much blood. It may have been consistent with the
+principles of military policy, but I feel an insurmountable reluctance
+to believe it.]
+
+[Footnote 59: They told me the names of these rivers, which I put down
+upon a sheet of paper devoted to preserving the names of some of the
+principal Maleks of the country. In my journey back this paper has
+disappeared from among my notes and papers, which has been a subject of
+great vexation to me.]
+
+[Footnote 60: The people of Sennaar also believed that our boats could
+not pass the third cataract; and, therefore, their opinion with regard
+to the shellal at Sulluk is not to be relied on.]
+
+[Footnote 61: The rainy season in Sennaar, at least the commencement of
+it, such as I found it, may be thus described: Furious squalls of
+wind in the course of one or two hours, coming from all points of
+the compass, bringing and heaping together black clouds charged with
+electric matter; for twelve or fifteen hours an almost continual roar of
+thunder, and, at intervals, torrents of rain; after which, the sky would
+be clear for two, three, or four days at a time.]
+
+[Footnote 62: It is nevertheless possible that this fly may be found in
+that part of the kingdom of Sennaar which lies on the other side of the
+Adit.]
+
+[Footnote 63: It was in the house where I quartered, at Sennaar, that
+I saw this singular animal. I jogged Khalil Aga, my countryman and
+companion, to look at it. He burst cut into an exclamation, "by God,
+that snake has got legs." He jumped up and seized a stick in order to
+kill and keep it as a curiosity, but it dodged his blow, and darted away
+among the baggage, which was overhauled without finding it, as it had
+undoubtedly escaped into some hole in the clay wall of the house. Mr.
+Constant, the gentleman, who accompanies Mr. Caillaud, was present
+at the time, so that I am convinced that what I saw was not an ocular
+delusion. I have been informed, since my return to Egypt, that the
+figure of this animal is to be seen sculptured upon the ancient
+monuments of Egypt.]
+
+[Footnote 64: The people of Sennaar catch, cook and eat, without
+scruple, cats, rats and mice; and those who are rich enough to buy a
+wild hog, fatten it up and make a feast of it. I had heard in the lower
+country that the people of Sennaar made no scruple to eat swine's flesh,
+but I absolutely refused to believe that a people calling themselves
+Mussulmans could do this from choice. But after my arrival in Sennaar I
+was obliged to own that I had been mistaken. The species of hog found in
+the kingdom of Sennaar is small and black; it is not found in that part
+of the kingdom called "El Gezira," i.e. the island, but is caught in the
+woody mountains of the country near Abyssinia. In the house of one Malek
+in Sennaar was found about a dozen of these animals fattening for his
+table.]
+
+[Footnote 65: The mountains of Bokki border upon the kingdom of
+Fezoueli, which lies south of Sennaar twenty days march. The mountains
+of Fezoueli are supposed to contain gold mines; pieces of gold are
+frequently found in the torrents that flow from those mountains in the
+rainy season. A native of that country told the Pasha Ismael, that he
+had seen a piece of gold, found in those mountains, as big as the bottom
+part of the silver narguil of his Excellence, i.e. about six inches in
+diameter. That there is gold in that country, is certain, as the female
+prisoners, taken at Bokki, had many gold rings and bracelets, of which
+they were quickly disencumbered by our soldiers. The Pasha intends to
+visit Fezoueli after the rainy season is over, to find the veins
+from whence this gold is washed down by the torrents, and, in case of
+success, to work the mines.]
+
+[Footnote 66: We passed Attar Baal the same night. The reader is
+aware that a boat carrying a courier, could not be detained to give a
+passenger an opportunity to see ruins.]
+
+
+[Footnote 67: The "Adit," or Nile of Bruce, enters the Bahar el Abiud
+nearly at right angles, but such is the mass of the latter river, that
+the Nile cannot mingle its waters with those of the Bahar el Abiud for
+many miles below their junction. The waters of the Adit are almost black
+during the season of its augmentation; those of the Bahar el Abiud, on
+the contrary, are white: so that for several miles below their junction,
+the eastern part of the river is black, and the western is white. This
+white color of the Bahar el Abiud is occasioned by a very fine white
+clay with which its waters are impregnated. At the point of junction
+between the Bahar el Abiud and the Adit, the Bahar el Abiud is almost
+barred across by an island and a reef of rocks; this barrier checks its
+current, otherwise it would probably almost arrest the current of the
+Adit. It is, nevertheless, sufficiently strong to prevent the Adit from
+mingling with it immediately, although the current of the Adit is very
+strong, and enters the Bahar el Abiud nearly at right angles.]
+
+[Footnote 68: Since my return to Egypt, we have learned that this army,
+after some bloody battles, had succeeded in taking possession of Darfour
+and Kordofan.]
+
+[Footnote 69: The provinces lying on the third Cataract, between Shageia
+and Berber, are called, 1st, Monasier; 2d, Isyout, 3d, El Raba Tab.]
+
+[Footnote 70: He came up in one of the nine boats that were able to
+pass, as mentioned before.]
+
+[Footnote 71: As the people of these countries dislike the piasters
+of Egypt, I bought a quantity of soap at Sennaar from the Greeks who
+accompanied the army as sutlers, in order to serve as a medium of
+exchange; for in most of the provinces on the Upper Nile, they prefer
+soap to any thing you can offer, except dollars, or the gold coin of
+Constantinople.]
+
+[Footnote 72: Khalil Aga, a native of New York, took the turban a few
+weeks before the departure of Ismael Pasha from Cairo. Learning that I
+was to accompany his Excellence, he requested me to obtain of the Pasha
+that he might be attached to me during the expedition. He is probably
+the first individual that ever traversed the whole of the river Nile
+from Rosetti to Sennaar. I have done the same, except about two hundred
+miles of the third cataract.]
+
+[Footnote 73: This I suppose to be the point where terminates the
+singular bend in the river noticed in the former part of my journal.]
+
+[Footnote 74: The wind, during the day, was constantly from the north,
+which was the general direction of our march from the time we quitted
+the river till we reached it again, so that we had the breezes always in
+our faces. The air of the desert is so very dry that no part of my
+body was moistened by perspiration except the top of my head, which
+was sheltered from the influence of the sun and air by the folds of my
+turban. I did not feel incommoded by heat in the desert when out of the
+sun's rays, but on arriving at Assuan I found it almost intolerable.]
+
+[Footnote 75: The names of the wells in the desert of Omgourann, between
+Berber and Seboo, are as follows:--1st, Apseach. 2d, Morat. 3d, El
+Medina. 4th, Amrashee, 5th, Mogareen. In the two latter, water is only
+found after heavy rains.]
+
+[Footnote 76: Close by this rock was the skull of some wretched man
+who had perished on this spot. All along our route we saw hundreds of
+skeletons of camels. The skull that we saw probably belonged to one of
+two Mogrebin soldiers who deserted at Berber, in order to return to.
+Egypt, and who both perished with thirst in the desert.]
+
+[Footnote 77: Our guide, an Abadie, would not permit the camels of our
+caravan to be watered at the well of Apseach, saying, that if he did,
+all the water then in the well would be consumed, and the consequence
+would be, that the nest traveler that came might perish with thirst.]
+
+[Footnote 78: The ground near the well of Morat is full of scorpion
+holes. On my arrival at midnight I spread my carpet on the ground and
+slept soundly. In the morning when it was taken up, we found under it a
+scorpion, I am sure four inches in length, its color green and yellow.
+I was told that they abound near all the wells of the desert, and I have
+seen very many at different places on the borders of the river.]
+
+[Footnote 79: Which we found to be the case till we came within fifteen
+hours march of the Nile.]
+
+[Footnote 80: Out of the twenty-two camels that we had commenced our
+march with from Berber, only twelve reached the river.]
+
+[Footnote 81: This was occasioned by the heat of the sun and the dryness
+of the air of the desert, which made nearly two fifths of our water to
+evaporate.]
+
+[Footnote 82: Before we entered the desert our caravan had been joined
+by several runaway domestics, who had fled from the army to return to
+Egypt.]
+
+[Footnote 83: The soldier of the Cadilaskier before mentioned, who was
+the conductor, i.e. the chief of the caravan, had recourse to a singular
+expedient to rouse one of them whom the whip could not stir. He seized
+his purse of money, which this man carried in his bosom, swearing that
+if he chose to stop and die there he might, and that he would be his
+heir and inherit his purse. This testamentary disposition on the part
+of the soldier had a wonderful effect. The man got up from the sand and
+walked forward very briskly, calling upon the soldier to restore the
+purse, as he was determined not to lie down any more till he reached
+the river. The soldier, however, observing the effect of his proceeding,
+retained the purse till we arrived at the river, when he restored it.]
+
+[Footnote 84: The last time I saw him was when I gave him part of the
+last bowl; he kissed my slipper, shedding abundance of tears, and saying
+that I was the only one of the caravan that had shown him mercy. I
+bade him keep up a good heart, for that on the morrow morning, by the
+blessing of God, we should be at the river.]
+
+[Footnote 85: Directly opposite Seboo, on the other bank of the river,
+stands an ancient Egyptian temple. Seboo is four days march of a camel
+above Assuan.]
+
+[Footnote 86: The reason for their refusal I afterwards learned, was,
+that they believed that the lad was already dead, and that therefore
+they should miss the reward promised.]
+
+
+[Footnote 87: Three days after my arrival at Assuan I had news of the
+fate of this lad, from a Nubian voyager of the desert, on his way to
+Assuan, who had found him, thirty-six hours after our arrival at Seboo,
+lying in the ravine leading to the river, but almost dead. He had
+stopped, it seems, to sleep a few hours, believing that sleep would
+refresh him, and that he could do it without danger, as the river was
+not many hours off. On his awaking, he found himself so weak that it
+was with great difficulty that he reached the ravine, where he fell. The
+traveler gave him water, and placed him on his dromedary, and brought
+him to the river, but he was too far gone; he died in a half an hour
+after he reached it. The last words he spoke, this man told me, related
+to his God, his prophet, and his mother: this traveler dug his grave
+and buried him. I told this man that I had offered a reward at Seboo to
+whoever would bring this unfortunate young man to the river, and that I
+would give the money to him as a recompense for having done all he could
+do in such a case. The man, to my astonishment, replied, "that it was
+not money that he would take as a reward for what he had done; that he
+would receive no reward for it but from the hands of God, who would pay
+more for it than I could." I told him that I was happy to have found a
+Mussulman mindful of the precepts of the Koran, which inculcate charity
+and benevolence to all those who are in distress, and that the record
+of such deeds would occupy a great space on the almost blank page of our
+good actions.]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of the Expedition to
+Dongola and Sennaar, by George Bethune English
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