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diff --git a/17592-h/17592-h.htm b/17592-h/17592-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f51e377 --- /dev/null +++ b/17592-h/17592-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,4738 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="us-ascii"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + Narrative of an Expedition + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of the Expedition to Dongola +and Sennaar, by George Bethune English + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Narrative of the Expedition to Dongola and Sennaar + Under the Command of His Excellence Ismael Pasha, undertaken + by Order of His Highness Mehemmed Ali Pasha, Viceroy of + Egypt, By An American In The Service Of The Viceroy + +Author: George Bethune English + +Release Date: January 24, 2006 [EBook #17592] +Last Updated: March 7, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITION TO DONGOLA AND SENNAAR *** + + + + +Produced by Charles Klingman; HTML version by David Widger + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h3> + A <br /> NARRATIVE <br /> <br /> OF THE <br /> <br /> EXPEDITION <br /> <br /> TO + <br /> <br /> DONGOLA AND SENNAAR, <br /> <br /> UNDER THE <br /> <br /> COMMAND + OF HIS EXCELLENCE ISMAEL PASHA, <br /> <br /><br /> UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER OF + <br /> <br /> HIS HIGHNESS MEHEMMED ALI PASHA, VICEROY OF EGYPT. <br /> <br /><br /> + BY AN AMERICAN IN THE SERVICE OF THE VICEROY. <br /> <br /><br /> <br /> + LONDON: <br /> JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1822. <br /> London: Printed + by C. Roworth, Bell Yard Temple Bar <br /><br /> <br /> TO <br /> HIS + BRITANNIC MAJESTY'S <br /> CONSUL GENERAL IN EGYPT, <br /> HENRY SALT, ESQ. + <br /><br /> MY FATHERLY FRIEND IN A FOREIGN LAND, THIS WORK IS DEDICATED, + WITH AFFECTIONATE RESPECT, BY <br /> THE AUTHOR: <br /> <br /> AND + RECOMMENDED TO THE KIND CARE AND PATRONAGE OF <br /> <br /> JOHN WILLIAM + BANKES, ESQ. <br /> <br /> BY HIS OBLIGED FRIEND AND SERVANT, <br /> <br /> + HENRY SALT. <br /> + </h3> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + By George Bethune English, + </h2> + <h4> + General of Artillery in the U.S. Service + </h4> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + Contents + </h2> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PREF"> PREFACE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> A NARRATIVE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_FOOT"> FOOTNOTES </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + PREFACE + </h2> + <p> + MEHEMMED ALI PASHA, the victorious pacificator of Egypt and Arabia, is + already renowned in the civilized world. Egypt, once the home of discord + and the headquarters of anarchy, under his administration has long enjoyed + peace and prosperity; is permeable in all directions, and in perfect + safety to the merchant and the traveler, and is yearly progressing in + wealth and improvement.<a href="#linknote-1" name="linknoteref-1" + id="linknoteref-1"><small>1</small></a> + </p> + <p> + The Viceroy has been particularly attentive to revive and extend those + commercial relations of Egypt with the surrounding countries, which once + rendered it the richest and most flourishing territory in the ancient + world. + </p> + <p> + A well chosen library of the best European books on the art military, + geography, astronomy, medicine, history, belles-lettres and the fine arts + has been purchased from Europe by the Viceroy and placed in the palace of + Ismael Pasha, where is also a school, at the Viceroy's expense, for the + instruction of the Mussulman youth in the Italian language and the + sciences of the Franks. To which establishments has been lately added a + printing press, for printing books in the Turkish, Arabic and Persian + languages, and a weekly newspaper in Arabic and Italian. The library and + the press are under the superintendence of Osman Noureddin Effendi, a + young Turk of great good sense, and who is well versed in the literature + of Europe, where he has resided for several years, by order of the + Viceroy, for his education: he is at present engaged in translating into + Turkish some works on tactics, for the use of his countrymen. + </p> + <p> + For several years past the inland commerce of this favored land had + suffered great interruptions from the confusion and discord to which the + countries on the Upper Nile have been a prey. The chiefs of Shageia had + formed themselves into a singular aristocracy of brigands, and pillaged + all the provinces and caravans within their reach, without mercy and + without restraint; while the civil wars, which have distracted the once + powerful kingdom of Sennaar for these last eighteen years, had occasioned + an almost entire cessation of a commerce, from which Egypt had derived + great advantages. + </p> + <p> + His Highness the Viceroy, in consequence, determined, as the most + effectual means of putting an end to these disorders, to subject those + countries to his dominion. + </p> + <p> + Four thousand troops were accordingly put under the command of Ismael + Pasha, the youngest son of the Viceroy, with orders to conquer all the + provinces on the Nile, from the Second Cataract to Sennaar inclusive. + </p> + <p> + Through the influence of the recommendation of Henry Salt, Esq., His + Britannic Majesty's Consul General in Egypt, I was ordered by the Viceroy + to accompany this expedition, with the rank of Topgi Bashi, i.e. a chief + of artillery, and with directions to propose such plans of operation to + the Pasha Ismael as I should deem expedient, but which the Pasha might + adopt or reject as he should think proper. + </p> + <p> + This expedition has been perfectly successful; and the conquest of the + extensive and fertile countries, which, in the reign of Candace, repulsed + the formidable legions of Rome, has been effected at an expense not + greater than the blood of about two hundred soldiers. + </p> + <p> + The principal cause of a success so extraordinary, at such a price, has + been the humanity and good faith of the Pasha Ismael towards those + provinces that submitted without fighting. Perfect security of person and + property was assured to the peaceable, and severe examples were made of + those few of the soldiery, who, in a very few instances, presumed to + violate it. The good consequences of this deportment toward the people of + these countries have been evident. All have seen that those who have + preferred peace before war have had peace without war, and that those who + preferred war before peace have not had peace but at the price of ruin. + </p> + <p> + The destruction or disarmament of the brigands, who have heretofore + pillaged those countries with impunity—the establishment of order + and tranquility—the security now assured to the peasants and the + caravans—and the annexment of so many fine provinces and kingdoms to + the sway of the Viceroy of Egypt,<a href="#linknote-2" name="linknoteref-2" + id="linknoteref-2"><small>2</small></a> are not the only consequences of + this expedition that will give him glory. + </p> + <p> + This expedition has laid open to the researches of the geographer and the + antiquarian a river and a country highly interesting, and hitherto + imperfectly known to the civilized world. The Nile, on whose banks we have + marched for so many hundred miles, is the most famous river in the world, + for the uncertainty of its source and the obscurity of its course. At + present this obscurity ceases to exist, and before the return of the Pasha + Ismael this uncertainty will probably be no more. The countries we have + traversed are renowned in history and poetry as the land of ancient and + famous nations, which have established and overthrown mighty empires, and + have originated the religions, the learning, the arts, and the + civilization of nations long since extinct; and who have been preceded by + their instructors in the common road which every thing human must travel. + </p> + <p> + This famous land of Cush and Saba, at present overawed by the camps of the + Osmanii, has presented to our observation many memorials of the power and + splendor of its ancient masters. The remains of cities once populous—ruined + temples once magnificent—colossal statues of idols once adored, but + now prostrated by the strong arms of time and truth—and more than a + hundred pyramids, which entomb the bodies of kings and conquerors once + mighty, but whose memory has perished, have suspended for awhile the march + of our troops—have attracted the notice of the Franks, who voyage + with the army with the favor and the protection of the Pasha,<a + href="#linknote-3" name="linknoteref-3" id="linknoteref-3"><small>3</small></a> + and which doubtless ere long, by engaging the attention and researches of + men of learning, will unite the names of Mehemmed Ali and Ismael his son + with the history and monuments of this once famous and long secluded land, + in a manner that will make the memory of both renowned and inseparable. + </p> + <p> + That the further progress of the Pasha Ismael southward of his present + position will be successful, there is every reason to believe; and I + derive great pleasure from the reflection, that his success will still + further augment the glory of the man whom the Sultan delights to honor, + and who has done so much for the honor of the Mussulmans. + </p> + <p> + The Reader will find that I have sometimes, in the course of this Journal, + included the events of several days in the form of narrative, particularly + in my account of the Second Cataract. Wherever I have so done, it has been + occasioned by paroxysms of a severe ophthalmia, which afflicted me for + fifteen months, and rendered me at times incapable of writing. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + A NARRATIVE + </h2> + <h3> + &c. &c. &c. + </h3> + <p> + I arrived at the camp at Wady Haifa on the Second Cataract, on the 16th of + the moon Zilhadge, in the year of the Hegira 3255,<a href="#linknote-4" + name="linknoteref-4" id="linknoteref-4"><small>4</small></a> where I found + about four thousand troops,<a href="#linknote-5" name="linknoteref-5" + id="linknoteref-5"><small>5</small></a> consisting of Turkish cavalry, + infantry and artillery, and a considerable proportion of Bedouin cavalry + and Mogrebin foot soldiers, besides about one hundred and twenty large + boats loaded with provisions and ammunition, and destined to follow the + march of the army to the upper countries of the Nile. + </p> + <p> + 17th of Zilhadge. Presented myself to his Excellency the Pasha Ismael, by + whom I was received in a very nattering manner, and presented with a suit + of his own habiliments. + </p> + <p> + On my asking his Excellency if he had any orders for me, he replied, that + he was at present solely occupied in expediting the loading and forwarding + the boats carrying the provisions of the army, but that when that was + finished he would send for me to receive his commands. + </p> + <p> + I employed this interval in noticing the assemblage that composed the + army. The chiefs and soldiers I found well disposed to do their duty, + through attachment to their young commander and through fear of Mehemmed + Ali. They were alert to execute what orders they received, and very busy + in smoking their pipes when they had nothing else to do. + </p> + <p> + On the 19th I was sent for by the Pasha, with whom I remained in private + audience for an hour. + </p> + <p> + On the 21st of the moon Zilhadge was attacked by that distressing malady + the ophthalmia. In two days the progress of the disorder was such that my + eyes were closed up and incapable of supporting the light, and occasioned + me such acute anguish that I could get no sleep but by the effect of + laudanum. This misfortune at this crisis was peculiarly vexatious and + mortifying for me, as it put it out of my power to accompany the Pasha, + who departed with the army for Dongola on the 26th, taking his route on + the west bank of the river, and leaving the Divan Effendi and a small + party of soldiers to expedite the loading and forwarding the boats that + had not as yet got ready to proceed up the Cataract. + </p> + <p> + On the 3d of Mofiarram, A. H. 1236, I embarked on board the boat of the + Frank surgeons attached to the army, and left the lower or north end of + the Second Cataract as it is commonly styled in the maps, in company with + fifteen boats to follow and rejoin the army. + </p> + <p> + I would here observe that what is called the Second Cataract is properly a + succession of partial falls and swift rapids for more than a hundred miles + before we arrived at Succoot. I counted nine; some of them, particularly + the second,<a href="#linknote-6" name="linknoteref-6" id="linknoteref-6"><small>6</small></a> + fifth,<a href="#linknote-7" name="linknoteref-7" id="linknoteref-7"><small>7</small></a> + seventh,<a href="#linknote-8" name="linknoteref-8" id="linknoteref-8"><small>8</small></a> + and ninth,<a href="#linknote-9" name="linknoteref-9" id="linknoteref-9"><small>9</small></a> + very dangerous to pass, though at this time the Nile had fallen but a few + feet. Before we arrived at the fifth, two boats were wrecked against the + rocks which crowd the rapids, and one filled and sunk; and before we had + passed the ninth several similar accidents had taken place. To pass the + fifth and ninth rapids, it was necessary to employ about a hundred men to + drag the boats one after another against the current. At the fifth pass, + several of the boats were damaged, and two soldiers and two boatmen + drowned. At this pass, the river is interrupted by a ledge of rocks + reaching nearly across, and over which the Nile falls. Between this ledge + of rocks and the western shore of the river is a practicable passage, wide + enough to admit a boat to be hauled up the current, which here runs + furiously. Overlooking this passage are two hills, one on the east and one + on the west side of the river: on these hills are the ruins of ancient + fortifications. They are also surmounted by two small temples in the + Egyptian style: that on the west side is almost perfect. It is sculptured + exteriorly and interiorly with figures and hieroglyphics, and the ceiling + is painted azure.<a href="#linknote-10" name="linknoteref-10" + id="linknoteref-10"><small>10</small></a> + </p> + <p> + The appearance of the country on each side of the falls is similar to that + of the country south of Assuan—a sandy desert studded with rocky + hills and mountains, The only appearance of vegetation observable was in + some of the islands and on the immediate banks of the river, where we met + at every mile or two with small spots of fertile ground, some of them + cultivated and inhabited. The rocky hills consist frequently of beautiful + black granite, of the color and brilliancy of the best sea-coal. Here and + there, at different points on the Cataract, I observed some forts built by + the natives of the country. They are constructed of unhewn stones cemented + with mud, and flanked by towers and angular projections something + resembling bastions, and are pierced with loopholes for musquetry. Their + interior presents the following appearance:—against the interior + side of the walls all round are built low chambers, communicating by small + doors with the area and frequently with each other. I could observe + nothing in these chambers except the bottom part of the small handmills + used by the Orientals to grind meal, which could not be hastily removed as + they were fixed in the ground; every thing else the inhabitants had + carried off on the approach of the army. The great area in the centre of + these forts appeared to have been occupied by the camels and flocks of the + inhabitants; some of these forts are to be seen surmounting the high rocky + islands with which the Second Cataract abounds, and make a picturesque + appearance. + </p> + <p> + On the 2d of the moon Safa, we passed what our Rais erroneously told us + was the last rapid between us and Succoot. We have been thirty days in + getting thus far,<a href="#linknote-11" name="linknoteref-11" + id="linknoteref-11"><small>11</small></a> the causes of our having been so + long in getting up the Falls were several. The crews of the boats which + had passed unhurt a dangerous passage were frequently detained to unload + and repair those which had been wrecked or damaged.—We have been + detained at the entrances of these rapids frequently for several days, for + want of a sufficient wind, it being absolutely necessary that the wind + should be very strong to enable the boats to force themselves through + currents running between the rocks with dreadful rapidity; and more than + once the boatmen have hesitated to attempt a dangerous pass till obliged + by the presence and menaces of the Divan Effendi who accompanied the + boats. + </p> + <p> + On the 3d of Safa, about an hour after we had passed what our Rais told us + was the last rapid of consequence we should have to encounter, we saw the + wreck of a boat lying against a rock in the middle of the river, her masts + alone appearing out of the water. The river here is interrupted by several + high insulated rocks. We had been assured that we should now find the + river open and without difficulty, till we should come to Succoot; the + appearance of this boat seemed to contradict this representation, and in + about an hour after we had abundant reason to be satisfied that it was + false. I was congratulating myself that we had got into smooth water, and + indulging myself with a tranquil pipe of tobacco, when suddenly the wind + slackened just as we were passing between two ledges of rocks where the + river was running at the rate of about six knots an hour. The current + overpowered the effort of the sails, and carried the boat directly among + the reefs, near the west bank of the river. After remaining for about ten + minutes in a very perilous position, the skill of our Rais happily got the + boat to shore without injury. + </p> + <p> + 3d of Safa. We remained all night at the place where we landed; in the + morning got under sail to pass the strong current we had attempted + yesterday without success. After buffeting about for an hour we were + forced to return to the bank of the river, and await a stronger wind. In + about an hour after the wind freshened and we got under way with better + fortune, and after passing the current before mentioned found ourselves in + smooth water. After sailing for an hour we stopped for ten minutes at a + place where we saw sheep, in order to purchase some, having for the last + twenty days been obliged to live on bread, rice, and lentils. Succeeded in + purchasing two lambs. The banks of the river hereabouts present some + fertile spots, a few of them cultivated. About noon the wind fell and the + Rais put to shore; we immediately set our domestics about preparing the + purchased meat, and shortly after we sat down to this regale, which + appeared to me the most delicious meal I had eaten for many years.<a + href="#linknote-12" name="linknoteref-12" id="linknoteref-12"><small>12</small></a> + Remained here for the remainder of the day. + </p> + <p> + 4th of Safa. Continued in the same place, there not being sufficient wind + to ascend the river. About two hours after noon arrived an Arab from + above; he was on his way to the Divan Effendi, who was a few miles below + us, to inform him that a boat, of which he had been one of the crew, had + been dashed to pieces against the rocks in attempting to pass a rapid. I + demanded of him "how many rapids there were yet ahead;" he replied "that + there were several; how many he did not exactly know." This intelligence + made me apprehensive that we might be another month in getting through + these obstacles, and determined me to renew my efforts to obtain camels + and proceed to the Pasha by land. I had made several attempts to hire some + for this purpose, during the last fifteen days, without success. The man + above mentioned informed me that I could probably obtain some at a village + about six hours off. I determined to send my servants on the morrow to + inquire. + </p> + <p> + 5th of Safa. Passed the night at the same place; early in, the morning a + favorable breeze sprung up and the Rais got the boat under sail. Was + obliged, in consequence, to proceed in the boat as long as the wind held. + Observed as we proceeded a number of fertile spots, some of them + cultivated, and a few small villages. I was informed that these will + become more frequent as we proceed. During this day, with a favorable + wind, made only about twelve miles against the current. + </p> + <p> + 6th of Safa. Got under way about two hours after sunrise, with a strong + breeze from the northward. About half an hour after quitting the land, + passed a dangerous rapid, occasioned by a. reef of rocks reaching nearly + across the river. In passing this rapid the wind slackened for half a + minute, and the current carried the boat astern to within six or seven + feet of the rocks; at this critical instant the wind happily freshened, + and forced the boat up the current, to the great relief of all on board. + An hour after, passed a picturesque spot, where the river is divided by a + high rocky island, supporting on its summit some ruined fortifications + made by the natives; on the right bank of the river, just opposite, is a + fertile spot of ground and a village, surrounded by date trees and + plantations. + </p> + <p> + Our Rais put to land about noon, the wind falling, and rocks and rapids of + formidable appearance being right ahead.<a href="#linknote-13" + name="linknoteref-13" id="linknoteref-13"><small>13</small></a> We have + made about eight miles to-day. Saw about two miles above us a number of + boats lying to the shore, apparently obstructed by the rapid just + mentioned. About the middle of the afternoon, in walking along the shore, + saw a crocodile; it was small, about three feet in length. When I came + upon him, he was sunning himself on the shore; on seeing me, he ran with + great rapidity and plunged into the river. + </p> + <p> + 7th of Safa. Got under way about two hours after sunrise, to pass the + rocks and rapids already mentioned. The passage was dangerous, and the + boat thrice in imminent peril. We struck once on rocks under water, where + the current was running probably at the rate of six knots an hour. + </p> + <p> + The current, after about ten minutes, swept the boat off without having + received a hole in her bottom, otherwise we must probably have perished. + Shortly after we were jammed between a great shallow whirlpool and a large + boat on our starboard beam. This boat was dashed by the current against + ours, and menaced to shove her into the whirlpool. The long lateen yards + of the two boats got entangled, and I was prepared to leap into the other + boat, in anticipation of the destruction of ours, when the wind freshened, + and the large boat was enabled to get clear of ours. Not long after, the + same boat fell aboard of us the second time, in a place where, if our boat + had drifted twice her length to leeward or astern, she must have run upon + rocks. All these accidents befell us, having under our eyes, at no great + distance from us, the wreck of a boat lost in this passage three or four + days ago.<a href="#linknote-14" name="linknoteref-14" id="linknoteref-14"><small>14</small></a> + After being for about two hours in danger, the boat arrived at the west + bank of the river, where we found many more waiting a sufficient wind to + be enabled to clear the remainder of the rapid, which runs very strong + here. + </p> + <p> + Stayed for a wind at this place two days. On the 10th of Safa, the boat + happily passed the remainder of the rapid, when the wind calmed, and the + Rais put to shore, there being yet a strong current to surmount. Opposite + to the place where we were, at about half a mile from the shore, a boat + had stuck fast upon some rocks this morning, all attempts to get her off + had proved unsuccessful, and she remained in that position, with all her + company on board, till next morning. + </p> + <p> + 11th of Safa. Quitted the shore about an hour after sunrise, with a fine + northerly wind. Passed the boat just mentioned, whose people looked very + forlorn. Some small boats were then on the way to unload this boat, should + it be found impossible to disengage her. Proceeded on our way, and passed + a number of small but pretty islands, lying near the west bank of the + river. They are cultivated and inhabited by a considerable population. The + country on the borders of the river begins to assume a better appearance—the + territory of Succoot, which we were now entering, containing many + villages. Beyond the green banks of the river, all is yellow desert, + spotted with brown rocky mountains, which, however, appeared to decrease + in number and height as we advanced up the river, till the country + subsided into a plain, with a few isolated mountains of singular forms and + picturesque appearance here and there in view. About two hours after + mid-day we arrived at a place where the river is embarrassed by small + rocks and shoals, except a narrow pass on the western side. We found the + current here too strong to be surmounted by the aid of what wind we had, + and therefore put to shore on a very fine island on our left. We passed + the remainder of the day here with satisfaction. This island is about a + mile and a half in length, naturally beautiful, and well cultivated by + about fifty or sixty inhabitants, who seemed to be well contented with + their situation.<a href="#linknote-15" name="linknoteref-15" + id="linknoteref-15"><small>15</small></a> We saw here three men of about + twenty-five years of age, who had been circumcised but five days past, a + thing I had never before known to have occurred to the children of + Mussulmans. + </p> + <p> + 12th of Safa. At an early hour, quitted the shore with a strong northerly + wind, to pass the current which had stopped us yesterday. This day's sail + was the most agreeable of any we had enjoyed since we left Egypt, the + river, since we had passed the rapids of Dall, (where the second cataract + of the Nile properly commences,) having become as broad as in Egypt, and + now flowing tranquilly through a country equally fertile, and much more + picturesque than the finest parts of Said. The eastern bank of the river, + particularly, presented a continual succession of villages, and fine soil + crowded with trees, and all cultivated. Passed, during the day, some fine + and large islands, also occupied by numerous villages. We stopped at night + at one of these islands, by whose beautiful borders we had been sailing + with great pleasure for more than four hours, with a stiff breeze. We were + in formed by the inhabitants, that this island was a day's walk in + breadth. They said, that, as we advanced, we should find others as large + and larger. Their island, they told us, was called Syee. They appeared to + be well satisfied with their condition, having an abundance of every thing + absolutely needful for a comfortable subsistence, and decent clothing of + their own manufacture. What surprised me not a little, was to find the + people as white as the Arabs of Lower Egypt, whereas the inhabitants of + Nubia are quite black, though their features are not those of the Negro. + </p> + <p> + I have observed, that the country through which we passed to-day, was as + fertile and much more picturesque than the Said. The reason for the latter + part of this assertion is, that in the Said the view is limited by the + ridges of barren and calcined mountains that bound it on both sides, + whereas here the view ranges over plains bounded only by the horizon, and + interspersed here and there with isolated mountains of most singular + forms. Some of them might be mistaken for pyramids, they are so regular + and well defined; some resembled lofty cones, and others resembled lofty + square or pentagonal redoubts. One of the latter description lies upon the + eastern bank of the river, and could easily be made an impregnable + fortress, which could command all water communication between Egypt and + Dongola. The scenes of verdure and cultivation through which we had passed + today, removed all suspicions from my mind as to what had been reported to + me of the great difference between Nubia and the country beyond it. + </p> + <p> + All the villages we have passed to-day, have in their centre a fort or + castle, fortified with towers at the corners, and, judging from those we + visited, resembling in their interior those on the cataract already + described. The village, consisting of low huts, built of mud, is built + round the walls of the fort, which is intended to serve as a place of + retreat and defense for the inhabitants and their flocks, in case of alarm + or attack. They are governed in the manner of the families of the + patriarchs, the Sheck of the village being both judge and captain. Saw at + this island a small skiff, the first boat belonging to the inhabitants of + the country that I have seen since quitting Wady Halfa. + </p> + <p> + 12th of Safa, Parted from the land about an hour after sunrise and + proceeded on our voyage, which was, if possible, still more agreeable than + that of yesterday. On the east bank of the river, the eye rests on a + continued succession of villages, occupying land of the finest quality, + and lying under a continued forest of palm trees, larger and taller, in my + opinion, than those growing in Egypt. On the right we saw, as we passed, a + chain of beautiful islands, some of them large and presenting the same + spectacle as the east bank. It is certainly a beautiful country. The river + from Assuan has only about half the breadth that it has in Egypt. In this + country it is as broad, and in many places, on account of the large + islands it here contains, very much broader than it is in Egypt. We + stopped at night at one of these fine islands, whose breadth being but + about two miles, enabled us to have a view of the west bank of the river, + which presented the same succession of villages and cultivation as on the + oriental side. I have already observed, that the date trees of this + country were larger and taller than those in Egypt. We found a similar + difference in the animals of this country; I purchased a sucking lamb, + which was certainly as big as an Egyptian sheep of a year's growth. The + cattle of this country differ from those of Egypt, in bearing, as to form, + a resemblance to the buffalo. They have a rising on the shoulder, and a + similar form of the hips. They are also larger than the cows of Egypt. + </p> + <p> + 14th of Safa. The wind did not spring up this morning till a late hour, + and after continuing for about an hour and a half, fell calm. We put to + shore on the western bank of the river, where we passed the remainder of + the day and the night. The country continued fine and crowded with + villages. At this place, some of the boat's company attempted to shoot a + hippopotamus, who had shown himself several times during the day. They + succeeded only in slightly wounding him, after which he disappeared. The + people of the country say that there are twelve that frequent this place + in the river, which contains here some low islands, well adapted to afford + them food and concealment. + </p> + <p> + 16th of Safa. Parted from the land about two hours after sunrise, with a + strong breeze. After continuing an hour and a half the wind subsided into + a calm, which obliged us to make for the shore. We landed on a large + island resembling those already mentioned, where we passed the remainder + of the day and the night. The country we had passed resembled that below, + beautiful, and as fertile as land can be. + </p> + <p> + 16th of Safa. Left the land about an hour after sunrise, and in half an + hour passed the southern boundary of the beautiful territory of Succoot, + and entered the province of Machass. The country we were now passing is + naturally fertile, but has not such a continued succession of villages as + Succoot. About three hours after sunrise came in view of the ruins of an + ancient temple on the west bank. With some difficulty engaged the Rais to + put to shore for a few minutes, to give me an opportunity of visiting it. + This temple is manifestly of Egyptian architecture; it is about two + hundred feet long from east to west; ten of the columns only are standing; + they are composed of separate blocks of a brown stone resembling that + employed in the construction of the temples in the isle of Philoe. The + walls of this temple are in ruins, except a part of the front which is in + a very dilapidated state. The front faces the East; the pillars and the + ruins of the walls are sculptured with hieroglyphics. It stands on the + west bank of the river about two miles beyond the territory of Succoot. + About an hour after leaving this place, the wind falling, our Rais was + obliged to put to shore. We soon arrived at the western bank of the river, + the Nile being in this place not a mile broad. The remainder of the day + being calm, we staid here till next morning. Several of the Pasha's + Cavalry passed along the west bank of the river yesterday and to-day, + bearing repeated orders from Dongola to the commanders of the boats to + hasten their progress. + </p> + <p> + 17th of Safa. At an early hour started with a favorable wind, but in about + two hours were obliged to put to shore. The river hereabouts makes several + turns almost at right angles with each other. This circumstance brought + the wind directly ahead in one of the bends and obliged us to remain there + till next morning. The country we saw to-day is not equal to the territory + of Succoot; the date trees, the villages, and the cultivation are not so + continued; and the view from the river is bounded at a little distance + from its banks by low rocky hills. Saw to-day a singular mode of + navigating the river; a man, who apparently was traveling down the river + with his whole family, had placed his youngest wife and her two young + children on a small raft made of bundles of corn-stalks lashed together, + he himself swam by its side to guide it, while he kept his old wife a + swimming and pushing it by the stern, and in this way they proceeded down + the river. + </p> + <p> + I have seen in this country small rafts made to carry one person, which + are very well contrived. Three or four large empty gourds are fastened + firmly to a small oblong frame made out of the branches of the date tree, + the whole not weighing two pounds. A man may go safely down or across the + river on this, either by fastening it to his breast and swimming supported + by it, or by riding on it astride; and when on shore he can carry it with + ease either in his hand or on his shoulder. + </p> + <p> + 18th of Safa, In the morning found that the wind had changed a little in + our favor, got under way, but after sailing for about two hours the + winding of the river again brought it ahead. Put to shore and staid there + till the middle of the afternoon, when the wind again hauled a little in + our favor, and with some difficulty we got to windward of the shore and + proceeded up the river. The river here is about half a mile broad, and + makes several turns which somewhat retarded our progress. We observed some + rocks and shoals, and on arriving at a place where the river is divided by + a large rocky island, observed a boat aground, which had taken the right + hand passage which was the broadest, and two others turning back to take + the passage on the other side of this island. We followed their example, + and found the passage safe enough. A little beyond the upper end of this + island the river makes an acute angle to the right hand. We proceeded + onwards till sunset, when we put to shore in company with two other boats. + The country we have passed through to-day resembled that we saw yesterday, + inferior to the fine territory of Succoot. + </p> + <p> + 19th of Safa, Left the land an hour and a half after sunrise, with a fine + breeze from the north. Sailed for about an hour through a country where + the rocky hills come down here and there close to the river banks and + narrowed the usual breadth of the Nile considerably. Observed however in + this tract of country a few fine and cultivated islands. Shortly after the + river widened, the rocky hills retired at a distance, and the eye rested + with pleasure on a beautiful country cultivated by the inhabitants of a + continued succession of villages and castles which occupied both banks of + the river. The country resembled the province of Succoot, except that the + date trees were not so numerous nor so tall and large. Passed the ruins of + a considerable fortified town situated on a high hill on the west bank. A + little beyond this place saw the ruins of a temple; four of the columns + are yet standing; could not go ashore to examine it, as the wind was fair + and strong, and the Rais under positive orders to proceed with all + expedition. Observed that several of the castles we had passed yesterday + and to-day appeared newer and better constructed for defense than those we + had seen along the Cataract. I suspect that they were erected under the + direction of the exiled Mamalukes, as this tract forms a part of the + territory subject to them before the arrival of the Pasha Ismael. + Continued to advance, through a country very beautiful, the river here + embosoming several large and delightful islands, capable of being made, by + the hands of enlightened industry, every thing that the art of man + operating upon a fine soil under a soft climate could effect. We sailed + pleasantly by these charming shores and islands till an hour and a half + before sunset, when we came in view of a rapid ahead, and the wreck of a + boat lost in passing it. The Rais put to shore, and after taking on board + a native of the country to show him the passage through the rocks and + shallows, attempted to pass immediately; the effort was unsuccessful. + After remaining in the foaming passage for three quarters of an hour, we + found that the wind was not strong enough to force the boat through the + current, and as the sun was about setting and the wind falling, the Rais + was obliged to let the boat drift back to the shore from whence we had + departed. + </p> + <p> + 18th of Safa. At about two hours after sunrise, the Rais thought the wind + sufficiently favorable and strong to carry the boat through the rapid. We + quitted the shore, and again faced the current. The Rais this time was not + mistaken; our boat forced her way slowly but victoriously through the + torrent, and in about three quarters of an hour carried us safely into + smooth water, where we could draw every advantage from a fine wind, which + swept us rapidly up the river between shores fertile and cultivated by the + inhabitants of a continued succession of villages shaded by palm trees. + About an hour after we had passed the rapid, we stopped to receive on + board three of our company who had left the boat yesterday in search of + fresh provisions on the western bank of the river. They reported that they + had seen a large pond of fresh water inland, and had found the country for + seven miles from the river crowded with villages, and as fertile as + possible. They represented that this country was watered by two ranges of + water-wheels; one range on the bank of the river, which threw the water of + the Nile into small canals leading to reservoirs inland, from whence the + other range took it up and distributed it to this fine territory. About + noon we passed, on the east bank, two very high, large and isolated rocks + of irregular and picturesque forms. On the side of the southernmost were + the remains of a considerable fortified town. The country hereabouts is + very beautiful. About three o'clock we passed another rapid, which was not + however very difficult. Found the river beyond this place much narrowed + and impeded by rocks. Passed two more rapids, the first of little + consequence, but the latter somewhat dangerous. In this last rapid saw two + boys sitting on a raft made of cornstalks lashed together, and driving + down the current. They appeared to be much at their ease, and not at all + alarmed at the rapid, though the current frequently whirled their fragile + raft round and round as it rushed past us. Soon after passing this rapid + the sun set, and we put to shore to pass the night. + </p> + <p> + 19th of Safa. About two hours after sunrise we left the shore with a fair + and fresh breeze. The river here is broad, and the country on both banks + fertile and peopled. After about an hour's sail we came up with some + beautiful islands, one of them very large and among the finest we had + seen. The islands above the Second Cataract are probably the most + beautiful spots watered by the Nile, which rarely over flows them. They + are the most populous and best cultivated parts of this country. Half an + hour after we came up with the large island, the wind became squally, and + the boat could not make safe progress. Our rais therefore put to shore, as + did those of five other boats in company with ours. We remained here for + the rest of the day. + </p> + <p> + 20th of Safa. In the morning, left the laud with the wind almost ahead. + After sailing about three miles, the rais found it necessary to put to + shore, as the wind was strong and too much ahead. Stayed by the land till + nearly noon, when the wind appearing to me and others on board, more + favorable, we, after some hard words with the rais, persuaded him to get + under way, the wind being about the same as in the morning, and very + strong. In about an hour we arrived at a bend in the river, which enabled + us to bring the wind aft. + </p> + <p> + We proceeded with great rapidity, threading the rocks and shoals with + which the river here abounds, till we came in view of a rapid ahead. We + had been informed, two days ago, that there was a dangerous rapid between + us and Dongola, and we congratulated ourselves that the wind was fair and + strong to push us through it; we passed it happily, though not without + peril. We felicitated ourselves on having cleared the only obstacle, as we + supposed, between us and the place of our destination, when we came in + view of another, of a more formidable appearance than any we had yet seen. + The passage lay where the river rolled furiously over rocks under water, + and between shores there was no approaching, on account of the shoals and + rocks above and under water which lined them. The strong wind forced our + boat alongside of another that was struggling and reeling in the passage, + to the imminent danger of both. To clear this boat, our rais ventured to + pass ours over a place where the foam and fury of the water indicated + latent rocks. We hardly dared to breathe, but we did not strike here, but + half a minute after we were fast upon a sand bank. We stayed in this + condition for about a quarter of an hour, having in view close by us the + wreck of a boat lost here. With considerable difficulty our boat was + disengaged, when we put her before the wind and again faced this truly + infernal pass. By the force of the current, the boat neared a large and + furious whirlpool, formed by an eddy on the side of the passage. The + steersman endeavored, in vain, to counteract this drift of the boat by the + aid of the rudder. The side of the boat approached to within a yard of the + white foam which covered this dreadful spot. Our rais tore his turban from + his head, and lifted his clasped hands to Heaven, exclaiming, "We are + lost!" The rest of the boatmen were screaming to God and the prophet for + aid, when, I know not how, but by the good Providence that watched over + us, the boat cleared this peril, and others that beset us in passing yet + two more rapids almost as dangerous. On passing the last, we found the + river divided lengthways, by a ridge of rocks and low islands covered with + verdure. On the right or west side of this ridge, where we were, the view + ahead presented our side of the river crowded with rocks, which we could + not pass. The singular ridge already mentioned, presented, however, some + gaps, which afforded passages into that part of the river that was on the + other side of this ridge. We passed through what appeared to us the safest + of these gaps, and soon after found ourselves in smooth but shallow water: + the river hereabouts being not less than five or six miles broad, and + spotted with rocks and little green islands and ridges. Soon after, a boat + ahead grounded, and stuck fast for some time: about five minutes after, + our boat received a violent shock from a rock under water. The rais put + the boat under her foresail only, in order that in case she struck, it + might be with as little force as possible. Shortly after, it being about + an hour before sunset, the rais put to shore to inquire of the people of + the country as to the condition of the river ahead. + </p> + <p> + The country we saw this day, on both sides of the river, is a level plain; + only one hill was visible. The shores, and many of the islands we passed + to-day, were such as we should have contemplated with greater pleasure, if + we could have employed our eyes and thoughts upon any thing beside the + perils by which we were environed. They are fertile, verdant, and in many + places truly picturesque. + </p> + <p> + We put to shore this day, as said before, about an hour before sunset. + When we disembarked, we found ourselves upon a large and beautiful island, + almost covered with trees of various kinds. The view from this island + ranges over an immense green plain, bounded only by the horizon, and + presents a great river winding in several branches through islands and + shores composed of as fine a soil as any in the world, and covered with + trees, among which the date tree bore a small proportion. Dongola, we were + told, was but a few hours distant from this place. + </p> + <p> + 21st of Safa. At sunrise, quitted the land and proceeded up the river, + which we found very wide and shallow. Its middle was occupied by an almost + continual range of islands, in my opinion without superior in any river + whatever.<a href="#linknote-16" name="linknoteref-16" id="linknoteref-16"><small>16</small></a> + The country bounding the river is a beautiful plain, as far as the eye can + reach, as fertile as land can be, and covered with a great variety of + trees, plants, and fields of corn. We sailed on with a fair wind till + within half an hour of sunset, without coming in sight of Dongola. This, + after the information we had received yesterday, somewhat disappointed us, + but we consoled ourselves by observing the islands and shores we were + passing, comparable to which, in point of luxuriant fertility, Egypt + itself cannot show. The whole country is absolutely overwhelmed with the + products of the very rich soil of which it consists. + </p> + <p> + 22d of Safa. Quitted the land at an early hour and proceeded up the river, + in hourly expectation of coming in view of Dongola, which we had been + given to understand was a considerable town. After sailing with a good + wind till the middle of the afternoon, without seeing any thing but a very + fertile country, resembling that we passed yesterday, the people on shore, + on our landing and demanding whereabouts Dongola was, informed us that we + were in Dongola, meaning the country so called. On our asking where was + the city or town of Dongola, they pointed to a large village in the + distance on the west bank of the river, and told us that village was + called "New Dongola," and that Old Dongola was farther up the river. They + informed us that the Pasha had left a guard of twenty-four soldiers here, + and had proceeded with the army three days' march farther up the river, + where we should find him. We determined to proceed to his encampment. We + saw to-day, for the first time, a small sail boat, constructed by the + people of the country; it was very clumsy, resembling a log canoe. The + river, in some places which we passed to-day, appeared to be about three + miles from bank to bank, but shallow; the islands and shores presenting + the same spectacle of luxuriant vegetation that we saw yesterday. + </p> + <p> + We bought a lamb of three weeks old, this evening, whose mother was as + tall as a calf of two months old. This species of sheep is hairy, and has + no wool. The kidneys of this lamb were large enough to cover the palm of + my hand, though the animal was undoubtedly undiseased. + </p> + <p> + 23d of Safa. Got under way shortly after sunrise, and proceeded up the + river with a fine wind, which lasted during the day, and carried us + probably thirty miles on our way. The country through which we passed + to-day is not so good as that we saw yesterday; the desert comes down to + the banks of the river in several places. We saw many villages, but for + the last two days have observed none of those castles so frequent in the + lower country. About an hour and a half after we quitted the land, passed + a fortified town on the west bank of the river, which appeared to be + mostly in ruins. On our landing, at night, we endeavored to purchase some + provisions, but the people of the country could only spare us some milk + and vegetables, for which they would not take money, but demanded flour. + On our consenting to this proposition, they brought us an abundance of the + articles above mentioned. They informed us that there was a town called + Dongola, containing about three hundred houses, at the distance of two + days' sail from this place, and that the Pasha was encamped three days' + march in advance of Dongola. + </p> + <p> + 24th of Safa. Left the shore this morning shortly after sunrise, and + proceeded on our voyage. The country we passed through this day was, on + the west bank of the river, fine, but on the east bank the desert was + visible at a little distance from the river almost all the day. Passed two + considerable fortified towns, situated on the left bank of the river; they + were almost in ruins. An hour before sunset we put to shore on the west + bank, where we found a fertile and cultivated country. The people who + occupied it, said that they had settled here a year ago; the island they + had occupied before having been overflowed by the river, and their + plantations destroyed. + </p> + <p> + 25th of Safa. This day made but little progress, there having been a calm + for more than half the day; what country we saw resembled that passed + yesterday. + </p> + <p> + 26th of Safa. Remained fast by the shore for the whole of this day, the + wind being ahead. The country on the west bank of the river, where we + stopped, is fine, but deserted by the inhabitants. Some of the boat's + company, who went up the country in search of provisions, reported that + they had seen the ruins of a temple, containing fragments of columns of + black granite. I determined, in case the wind on the morrow should + continue unfavorable, to visit this place. They also had met a party of + fifteen armed men, who informed them that they belonged to this country, + but had been compelled to quit it, and fly, by the brigands of Shageia, + who had infested and ravaged the country, but had returned on hearing that + the Pasha Ismael had defeated and expelled these robbers, and had invited + every fugitive peasant to return home, giving them assurance of future + safety and protection. We were alarmed this evening by the report of + several musket shot, which appeared to come from the other side of the + river, where, we had been told, still lurked some of the brigands. + Prepared our arms to be ready in case of attack, but passed the night + unmolested. + </p> + <p> + 27th of Safa. Early in the morning, quitted the shore with a fair wind, + and proceeded on our voyage; Dongola being, we were told, but half a day's + distance from us. The appearance of the country still the same. + </p> + <p> + 28th of Safa. Made but little way today, the wind being light. About the + middle of the afternoon, put to shore on the east bank of the river, as + there appeared to be no villages in sight on the other shore, and we were + in want of provisions. The country we saw to-day is very good, and covered + with trees, but sparely inhabited. + </p> + <p> + The country where we landed was, however, tolerably well cultivated by the + inhabitants of several villages hereabouts. The soil, where it was not + cultivated, was completely covered with trees, generally of no great + height, and with bushes and long rank grass. The habitations of many of + the inhabitants could with difficulty be found; they are frequently + nothing but a rough arbor formed in the thickets. We had continual reason + to be surprised, that a country naturally so rich should be so thinly + populated and so carelessly cultivated. The people, however, appeared to + be content with raising enough for their subsistence, and to desire + nothing beyond this. Our money they did not value; they would give us + nothing for money, but the flour of Egypt readily obtained what they could + spare. + </p> + <p> + 29th of Safa. At sunrise left the land with a fair and strong wind, and + proceeded up the river with rapidity. In about two hours passed what + appeared to be the ruins of a large fortified city, situated on a + commanding eminence on the east bank of the river. Shortly after, put to + shore on the west bank of the river, the wind having increased to a gale, + and the east side towards the city, just mentioned, being inaccessible on + account of the shoals that lined it. The violence of the wind forced the + boat aground upon a shallow, at the entrance of a canal here, the only one + I had seen for a month. After toiling for an hour, the boatmen at length + succeeded in getting the boat water-borne. About an hour after noon the + wind abated and the boat proceeded on her way under her foresail only. We + went at a great rate till an hour before sunset, when we put to shore on + the east bank of the river. The people informed us that we had passed + Dongola, and, from their description of that place, we were convinced that + the city we had seen this morning, upon the eminence on the east bank of + the river, must have been the place we were bound to. The people said that + all the boats that preceded us had followed the march of the army of the + Pasha, who was encamped, they reported, at two days' distance from this + place. We therefore determined to proceed to join him, and not to return + to Dongola, where it was probable we should only receive directions to + proceed to the Pasha. The country we saw to-day was not so uniformly + fertile as that we have passed for several days past. Sand was in some + places visible. + </p> + <p> + 1st of Rebi. Made great way to-day, the wind being very strong till + sunset. We landed at evening on a large and fertile island which was well + cultivated. I observed here, at a considerable distance from the place + where we landed, a large and lofty column, situated, as I then supposed, + on the main land, on the eastern bank of the river.<a href="#linknote-17" + name="linknoteref-17" id="linknoteref-17"><small>17</small></a> The + country we passed to-day, for about ten miles on the eastern bank of the + river, is mostly covered by sand; that on the western bank is beautiful. + During the whole of the afternoon, however, the country we passed, on both + banks, can be surpassed by none in the world for fertility; the appearance + of numerous water-wheels and large plantations of durra and cotton, showed + us that this fine territory was improved by a considerable population. The + face of the country continues still the same, an immense and fertile + plain, bounded by the horizon and intersected by the windings of the river + Nile. We have seen no considerable eminence for many days, except that on + which stands the old city of Dongola, which we passed yesterday; it is a + fine military position. + </p> + <p> + 2d of Rebi. The wind to-day was right ahead, owing to the curious fact + that the river here makes an eccentric bend to the left, toward the + north-east, and presents itself as coming from that quarter instead of + from the south or south-west, as usual hitherto.<a href="#linknote-18" + name="linknoteref-18" id="linknoteref-18"><small>18</small></a> The Rais + attempted to advance by cordelling the boat; but the force of the wind and + current prevented the boatmen from gaining more than two or three miles + along the coast of the island, where we landed yesterday. We were + therefore obliged to pass a great part of this day and all night by the + shore. The island is about twenty miles long and very beautiful; it is + called, as I have been repeatedly informed, "Argo." + </p> + <p> + 3d of Rebi. We were obliged still to continue fast by the shore till noon, + when the wind abating, the boat advanced about two miles by the help of + the cordel, so far as to arrive at a small bend in the river, which + brought the wind a little in our favor, so as to pass by its aid to the + other side, in the hope, if the wind continued the same on the morrow, to + profit by it and proceed. We arrived a little before sun set, and remained + there for the night. We saw this day, while the boat was warping slowly + along the left bank of the river, the ruins of a considerable fortified + town, built of stone and encompassed by large cemeteries. Some large + columns, of a beautiful stone, white intermixed red, are to be seen among + the ruins. One of the cemeteries is evidently ancient, as the tombs are + covered with hieroglyphics, intermixed with inscriptions. In one of the + tombs one of our party found the remains of a mummy. + </p> + <p> + 4th of Rebi. Made but little progress to-day, on account of the + irregularity in the river already mentioned, which makes its course + hereabouts almost the direct contrary to its natural direction, and + brings, in consequence, the prevalent winds ahead. Passed some small, but + fine islands, and saw, for the first time for several days, stone + mountains in the distance: the shores of the river hereabouts are fertile, + but thinly inhabited. Saw several large villages in ruins. + </p> + <p> + 5th of Rebi. The wind and the untoward direction of the river obliged us + again to employ the cordel to forward the boat a few miles more on her + way. By the middle of the afternoon we had arrived at a place on the left + <a href="#linknote-19" name="linknoteref-19" id="linknoteref-19"><small>19</small></a> + bank of the river that had been, a few days ago, the scene of a battle + between the Pasha and the brigands of Shageia. We found there a strong and + well built castle at the farther extremity of a high and long mountain, + running nearly at right angles with the river, and which approached to + within a few hundred yards of its bank; thus furnishing a fine position to + the enemy. The castle was taken by the aid of the Pasha's artillery, and + his cavalry rode through and dispersed all who fought outside of it.<a + href="#linknote-20" name="linknoteref-20" id="linknoteref-20"><small>20</small></a> + This castle was astonishingly welt arranged in its interior, and was + thereby rendered very comfortable quarters for a considerable garrison. + The country, in the vicinity, contains many villages, and was covered with + plantations of durra beans and fields of cotton. These villages had been + ransacked, and in part destroyed, by the victorious troops, as the + inhabitants, instead of coming in to the Pasha, as did the people of the + lower countries, had taken up arms and sided with the brigands who lorded + it over the country. We learned, however, that they did this much against + their will, being compelled thereto by their marauding masters. I was + informed today that some English travelers were in one of the boats ahead. + I determined, in case the wind should continue unfavorable tomorrow, to + walk up the river and pay them a visit. + </p> + <p> + 6th of Rebi. Set out very early in the morning, it being dead calm, and + the boat in consequence unable to proceed, except by the cordel, to see + the strangers, and to be informed of their accommodations, as I feared + that they too were obliged to participate in the privations to which we + were all exposed. After about two hours walk at length came up with the + boat, on board of which these gentlemen were. They informed me that they + had set out from Cairo a few days after we had quitted Bulac. They were + suffering privations, as were all in the boats, and I regretted that my + being in similar circumstances put it out of my power to ameliorate their + situation. As, however, we had now learned to a certainty, that the camp + of the Pasha was not far distant, it was in my power to assure them that + they would be better off in a day or two.<a href="#linknote-21" + name="linknoteref-21" id="linknoteref-21"><small>21</small></a> All the + way to their boat, and on my return to ours, I observed some hundreds of + bodies of men and animals that had perished in the late engagement and + during the pursuit, and the stench which filled the air was almost + intolerable. The country, covered with an abundance of grain almost + matured, was abandoned; the water-wheels stood still, and the cisterns + were frequently infected by a bloody and putrefying carcass. + </p> + <p> + 7th of Rebi. Passed the last night on board the boat, near the mountain + already mentioned in the day before yesterday's journal. Two Greeks on + board of our boat reported last evening, that they had heard menacing + cries from the mountain. The people on board of the boat supposed that + some of the brigands had returned to their haunt and meditated an attack + on our boat by night. We were accordingly on the watch till morning, + without, however, being molested. This morning, about two hours after + sunrise, these same Greeks reported that they had seen fifteen or sixteen + of the robbers in a body, and armed. They also told the Mogrebin soldiers + in the other boats, which had now come up with ours, that these men had + probably massacred one of the soldiers attached to me and two of my + servants, as they had not been seen since morning. I accordingly set out, + in company with twenty soldiers, in pursuit of the supposed assassins. We + had not proceeded far when we met the persons supposed killed, on their + way to our boat, safe and sound. They had seen no armed men, though they + came from the direction that the Greeks said the robbers had taken. I + therefore returned to the boat, reflecting upon the old proverb, "A Greek + and a liar." The Mogrebin soldiers were not, however, convinced of the + falsehood of the report, and pursued their way to the mountain; they found + no robbers there, but repaid themselves for the trouble they had taken, by + taking possession of a young and pretty girl, which they carried to their + boat as a lawful prize. After proceeding a few miles by the aid of the + cordel, we put to land at sunset, near a village on the left bank of the + river. We found here the ruins of a Christian church, built in the style + of the lower Greek empire, of which one column, of red granite, of no + great height, was standing, (it bore on its chapiter a cross and a star,) + and was all that stood on its base; others, fallen and broken, were lying + near it. The soldiers found in the villages near us several hundred women + and about two hundred men; they were peasants who had taken refuge here + during the battle between the brigands and the troops of the Pasha. The + soldiers were disposed to treat them as enemies, but they were saved from + their fury by showing a paper given them by the Pasha, assuring them of + protection. It is the rule to give these papers to every village not + hostile, to protect them from the soldiers. We remained here all night. + The country of Shageia, possessed by the brigands, was the best cultivated + we had seen this side of Assuan; the water-wheels, so far as we have + passed their country, being frequently within half a stone's throw of each + other. They obliged the peasants to work hard to raise food and forage to + ml the magazines of their castles, which are seen here and there all over + this country. + </p> + <p> + 8th of Rebi. The wind and the direction of the river continuing the same, + we were obliged to advance by the cordel. The country continued fine and + well cultivated, and we passed several large and beautiful islands. In + walking along the shore, saw at a distance a large castle, lately occupied + by the brigands; on visiting it, found it capable of accommodating at + least a thousand men. The walls and towers very thick and pierced with + loopholes: it had been taken by the aid of the Pasha's artillery, and + almost every thing combustible in it had been burned by the troops. A few + miles beyond this the boat stopped for the night. + </p> + <p> + 9th of Rebi. Heard this morning at day-light, with great pleasure, the + report of three cannon, which indicated the proximity of the camp. We + proceeded slowly by the cordel, the river obstinate in maintaining the + same untoward direction, and the wind consequently adverse. The country we + saw to-day, like that we have passed for the last two days, gave us + continual occasion of surprise. It was better cultivated than any part of + the countries south of Egypt that we had seen. It was crowded with + villages and covered with grain, deserted by its proprietors. In the + afternoon, however, the disagreeable impression produced by seeing so fine + a country without inhabitants was almost obliterated by the pleasure I + felt on being informed that a large number of its cultivators, with their + wives and children, were on their return to their fields and houses, + provided with an escort from the camp, and a firman from the Pasha Ismael, + securing them from outrage, and assuring them of protection. I am sorry to + be obliged to say, that the inhabitants of this unfortunate district had + great occasion for this protection. The soldiers in the boats were + disposed to take liberties with the inhabitants, on the plea of their + being the allies of the brigands. This morning, two men belonging to a + village in this neighborhood, were severely beaten, and their wives or + sisters violated by some soldiers belonging to the boats. This afternoon, + a soldier belonging to our boat, accompanied by one of the Greeks already + mentioned, and the Frank cook of the Proto Medico went to the same + village, without my knowledge, to participate in this licentious + amusement. They were somewhat surprised and terribly frightened on their + arrival at this village, on finding themselves suddenly surrounded by + about two hundred peasants armed with clubs, who fiercely demanded what + they wanted, asking them if they had come, as others had before them + to-day, to cudgel the men and violate the women, and ordered them to be + off immediately to the boats. The luckless fornicators, confounded by this + unexpected reception, were heartily glad to be allowed to sneak back to + the boat in confusion and terror. On their arrival, and this affair + becoming known to me, I abused them with all the eloquence I could muster, + first, for their villainy, and then for their cowardice, as they were well + armed, and had fled before the face of cudgels. When we stopped at night, + we were told that we were about three hours distance from the camp. + </p> + <p> + 10th of Rebi. The river and the wind still obliged us to proceed slowly by + the cordel. The country we passed to-day was fine, and had been cultivated + with great care, but deserted. The face of the fields was almost covered + with the household furniture of the villagers. Straw mats, equal to any + sold at Cairo, were abandoned by hundreds on the spots where they had been + employed for the night by the troops, when on the pursuit after the + brigands who had fled from the last battle. Many of the largest of these + mats the soldiers had formed into square huts for the different guards. + The abandoned harvests waved solitary in the wind, and the numerous + water-wheels were all motionless. We passed several large castles, not + many days back garrisoned by fierce marauders, who claimed all around + them, or within the reach of their horses' feet, as theirs; and many well + built villages, whose inhabitants were the slaves of their will. In one of + these deserted castles, we found fragments of vessels of porcelain, basins + of marble, chests of polished Indian wood, the pillage probably of some + caravan, and a small brass cannon. The walls of the apartments were hung + with large and colored straw mats, of fine workmanship, and showed many + indications of the pains taken to make them comfortable and convenient. An + hour after noon, we met great numbers of men, women, and children, + accompanied by their herds and flocks, who were returning to this + abandoned country, by the encouragement and under the protection of the + Pasha. It was an affecting sight to see almost every one of these + unfortunate women carrying her naked and forlorn children either upon her + shoulders or in her arms, or leading them by the hand. The pleasure I felt + at seeing these proofs of the humanity of the Pasha Ismael was diminished + by seeing his safe-conduct disregarded by some of the Mogrebin soldiers, + and particularly by the Greek and Frank domestics of the Proto Medico + Bosari, who seized from the hands of these miserable creatures as many + sheep and goats as they thought they had occasion for. About an hour + before sunset, we passed the encampment of Abdin Cacheff, on the right or + opposite bank of the river; and at night-fall came in view of that of the + Pasha about three miles farther up on the same side. We stopped to pass + the night, as the boatmen were too much fatigued to draw the boat any + farther to-day. + </p> + <p> + 11th of Rebi. The direction of the river and the wind still the same. + Proceeded slowly by the cordel till about two hours after noon, when we + arrived at the camp of the Hasnardar on the left bank of the river; that + of the Pasha was on the opposite side. Not far from the camp of the + Hasnardar, some ruins and several small pyramids attracted my attention. + As I could not go to the Pasha before to-morrow, I determined to employ + the remainder of the day in a visit to these antiquities, which lay near a + large high and isolated rock, about a mile distant from the river. I found + before this rock the ruins of a very large temple, which covered a great + space of ground. Some columns, almost consumed by time, were standing + nearly buried in the rubbish. The bases of others were visible, which, + from their position, evidently once supported an avenue of pillars leading + to an excavation in the great rock aforementioned, against and joining on + to the side of which, that fronted towards the river, this temple appeared + to have been constructed. Among the ruins saw two large lions of red + granite, one broken, and the other little injured, and a small headless + statue, about two feet high, in a sitting posture. On approaching the + front of the rock, found it excavated into a small temple, whose interior + was sculptured with the usual figures and symbols seen in the temples of + ancient Egypt. Its roof, and that of the porch before it, exhibited + several traces of the azure with which it had been painted. The porch + before this excavation was supported by Caryatid figures, representing + huge lions standing nearly erect upon their hinder legs. The ruins before + the rock seemed to me to have originally composed a large temple, of which + this excavation was the inner sanctuary. The pyramids were close by these + ruins. I counted seventeen, some of them in ruins, and others perfect. + Those which were uninjured were small, of a height greater than the + breadth of the base, which was generally about twenty feet square; the + sides resembled steep stairs. They were however compactly and very + handsomely constructed of hewn stones, similar to the rock before + mentioned, and probably taken from it. Before some of these pyramids, and + attached to one of their sides, we found low buildings, resembling small + temples, and, judging from the interior of one we found open, intended as + such, as the inside of this one was covered with the usual hieroglyphics + and figures. It would be a work of little difficulty to open the pyramid + to which was attached the little temple I entered, as the figure of a door + of stone in the pyramid is to be seen, when inside of the temple, attached + to its side. In view from this place, many other pyramids were in view + higher up the river, on the opposite bank, one of them large. The people + of the country called the place I visited, "Meroe" as likewise the whole + territory where these ruins are found. The ruins I have mentioned do not + appear ever to have been disturbed. I doubt not that several remains worth + research lie concealed under the rubbish, which here covers a great space + of ground. No other remains of antiquity are visible in this place besides + those I have mentioned. The immediate spot where they stand, and its + vicinity backward from the river, is covered by the sand of the Desert, + underneath which probably many more lie concealed. + </p> + <p> + The river Nile has been represented, and I think with justice, as one of + the wonders of the world. I do not consider it as meriting this + appellation so much on account of its periodical and regular floods, in + which respect it is resembled by several other rivers, as on account of + another circumstance, in which, so far as I know, it is without a + parallel. + </p> + <p> + The Nile resembles the path of a good man in a wicked and worthless world. + It runs through a desert—a dry, barren, hideous desert; on the parts + of which adjoining its course it has deposited the richest soil in the + world, which it continually waters and nourishes. This soil has been the + source of subsistence to several powerful nations who have established and + overthrown mighty kingdoms, and have originated the arts, the religion, + the learning and the civilization of the greater part of the ancient + world. These nations, instructors and pupils, have perished; but the + remains of their stupendous labors, the pyramids and the temples of Egypt, + Nubia, and in the countries now visited for the first time, at least for + many ages, by minds capable of appreciating the peoples who erected them, + are more than sufficient to excite astonishment and respect for the + nations who founded them. The few in stances that I have mentioned are + such as have presented themselves to my notice in sailing up the river, + without my having the opportunity to scrutinize them particularly, or time + or means to pursue any researches in the vicinity of those I have seen, by + which doubtless many more would be discovered. Some future traveler in + these interesting and remote regions, who may have the power and the means + to traverse at his leisure the banks and islands I have seen and admired, + will, I believe, find his labors rewarded by discoveries which will + interest the learned, and gratify the curious. + </p> + <p> + A voyage up the Nile may be considered as presenting an epitome of the + moral history of man. We meet at almost every stage with the monuments of + his superstition, his tyranny, or his luxury; but with few memorials of + his ingenuity directed with a view to real utility. We also every where + behold the traces of the vengeance of Almighty Justice upon his crimes. + Everywhere on the banks of the ancient river we behold cities, once famous + for power and luxury, a desolation, and dry like a wilderness; and temples + once famous, and colossal idols once feared, now prostrate and confounded + with the dust of their worshippers. "The flocks lie down in the midst + thereof: the cormorant and bittern lodge in the temples and palaces. Their + voice sings in the windows, and desolation is in the thresholds." + </p> + <p> + The peoples who now occupy the territories of nations extinct or + exterminated have profited neither by their history nor their fate. What + was once a land occupied by nations superstitious and sensual is now + inhabited by robbers and slaves. The robbers have been expelled or slain, + and the oppressed peasant is emancipated by the arms of the nation who + avenged the cause of Heaven upon the degenerate Greeks, but who + nevertheless have derived neither instruction nor warning from their + downfall and subjugation. The Nile meantime, which has seen so many + nations and generations rise and disappear, still flows and overflows, to + distribute its fertilizing waters to the countries on its borders: like + the Good Providence, which seems unwearied in trying to overcome the + ingratitude of Man by the favors of Heaven. + </p> + <p> + On my arrival at the camp, I was informed of the particulars of the + progress of the victorious son of the distinguished Meheromet Ali from + Wady Haifa to Meroe. Before his march every thing had submitted or fallen. + All attempts to arrest his progress had proved as unavailing as the + obstacles opposed by the savage rocks of the Cataracts of the Nile to the + powerful course of that beneficent and fertilizing river. + </p> + <p> + His Excellence, as said before, set out from Wady Haifa on the 26th of + Zilhadge last. In ten days of forced march he arrived at New Dongola. A + little beyond this village, the Selictar, at the head of a detachment of + about four hundred men, surprised and dispersed about fifteen hundred of + the enemy, taking many of their horses and camels. Four days' march beyond + New Dongola, the Pasha, at the head of the advance guard of the army, came + up with the main body of the Shageias and their allies, strongly posted on + the side of a mountain near a village called Courty, on the westerly bank + of the river. The Pasha at this juncture had with him but six hundred + cavalry and some of the Abbadies mounted on dromedaries, of whom we had + about five hundred with the army, but none of his cannon. The enemy + advanced to the combat with loud screams and cries, and with great fury. + The Abbadies could not withstand their charge, and were driven rearward. + At this critical instant, his Excellence gave the order, and the cavalry + of the Pasha charged and poured in the fire of their carabines and + pistols. After a conflict of no long duration, the cavalry of the enemy + fled in dismay, while those who fought on foot fell on their faces, + throwing their shields over their heads to secure them from the tramp of + the cavalry, and implored mercy. + </p> + <p> + In consequence of the result of this affair, all the country between the + place of combat and Shageia, i.e. the country occupied by the castles and + immediate subjects of the Maleks of Shageia, submitted and were pardoned. + The Pasha pursued his march to the province of Shageia, where Malek + Shouus, the principal among the Shageia chiefs, had collected the whole + force of the republic of the brigands with a determination to risk another + battle. The Pasha found, on his arrival, a part of their force posted on + an island near the long mountain I have mentioned in my journal as having + been the scene of a combat a few day? before I reached it. Those of the + enemy who were in the island were forthwith attacked by troops sent over + in the boats which accompanied the army, and were cut to pieces or driven + into the river. The army then advanced to attack the great mass of the + enemy in their position on the mountain. It was a very advantageous one. + The mountain runs nearly at right angles with the river, which it nearly + reaches, leaving between itself and the river a tract of ground about a + quarter of a mile in width, which at the time was covered with plantations + of durra. The enemy were posted on the side of this mountain and among the + durra in the open ground between the mountain and the river; so that their + rear was secured by the mountain, and their right covered by a strong + castle at the foot of its extremity lying off from the river. Malek + Shouus, Malek Zibarra, and the other chiefs of Shageia, and their + immediate followers, composed the cavalry of the enemy. They had + assembled, either by force or persuasion, all the peasantry subject to + their dominion, the whole forming a mass which blackened the whole side of + the mountain. Their arms consisted of lances, shields and long broad + swords double-edged. These wretched peasants, who were all on foot, their + masters posted in front in order to receive and exhaust the fire of the + Pasha's troops; while Shouus and the cavalry occupied the rear in order to + keep the peasants to their posts, and to have the start of the Pasha's + cavalry in case they should find it necessary to take to flight. The Pasha + posted his troops parallel to the enemy, placing the greater part of the + cavalry opposite the open ground between the mountain and the river, and + pushing the artillery a little in advance. The enemy with loud cries and + uplifted lances rushed forward. Some of the peasants in advance of the + others, with no other arms than lances and shields, threw themselves upon + the cannon and were blown to pieces.<a href="#linknote-22" + name="linknoteref-22" id="linknoteref-22"><small>22</small></a> The castle + on the right of the enemy was stormed. After feeling the effects of a few + rounds from the artillery, which dashed horse and man to pieces, the + cavalry of the enemy fled in dismay, leaving their infantry to be rode + over and shot down <a href="#linknote-23" name="linknoteref-23" + id="linknoteref-23"><small>23</small></a> by our cavalry, who destroyed + many hundreds of them in the battle and during the pursuit. Malek Shouus + and his cavalry did not discontinue their flight till they reached the + territory of Shendi, leaving their numerous and strong castles, their + dependant villages, and a rich and beautiful country, in the hands of the + conqueror.<a href="#linknote-24" name="linknoteref-24" id="linknoteref-24"><small>24</small></a> + </p> + <p> + On the 12th of Rebi, I passed over to the camp of the Pasha. I did not + however obtain an audience of his Excellence till two days after, when, + being alone, he sent for me, and received me in the most nattering manner, + ordering me as usual to sit in his presence. After the usual compliments, + I informed his Excellence that I had been much mortified and distressed, + that the act of God, in depriving me of the use of my eyes a few days + before his Excellence left Wady Halfa, had prevented me from accompanying + his victorious march, and participating in the exploits of his troops; so + that I had not arrived till there was nothing left to do. His Excellence + replied that a "great deal more remained to be done, in which I should + have a share." I replied with a compliment, and then demanded horses and + camels for myself, and the soldiers I had brought with me; he replied + "that I should have them." After some further conversation, of a + confidential nature, I retired. During the nine days following, I had + reason to applaud the humanity and good policy of the Pasha, in offering + amnesty and peace to all the brigands who should come in and surrender + themselves. Several of their chiefs, whom they call "Maleks" accompanied + by their followers, came in while the camp remained near Meroe. The chiefs + were presented with costly habiliments, and the written protection of his + Excellence, recognizing them as under his safeguard; and returned with + their followers to their homes, tranquillized and contented. The most + rigid discipline was observed in the camp, to prevent the people of the + country from suffering by the presence of the army. Some soldiers and + domestics were severely beaten for taking sheep and goats without paying + for them, and five of the Abbadies (or auxiliaries mounted on dromedaries) + were impaled for having seized some camels from the peasants. It was truly + honorable to the army and its commander to see villages embosomed in a + camp, whose inhabitants, men, women and children, pursued their usual + occupations, without molestation and without fear. In the country below, + which had been the scene of combat, the fields were deserted, and for + several days I had not seen a peasant at work upon the ground. In the + vicinity of the camp of the Pasha, where the people had submitted + themselves, the discordant creak of the water-wheels frequently attracted + the ear, and the peasants cultivated their fields within musket shot of + the camp of a conqueror. + </p> + <p> + On the 21st of Rebi, a detachment, consisting of three hundred cavalry, + departed from the camp for the country of the Berbers, to secure its + submission and to obtain horses and camels for the army. Learning that it + was the intention of the Pasha to march in a few days, to pitch his camp + about eight hours march farther up the river, I wished to ascertain + whether I could have the horses and camels I needed before the Pasha + marched. His reply to my demand was, that he had no camels, at present, + that were not appropriated to some service or other, but that, as soon as + he had them, I should receive what I needed. I was consequently obliged to + embark in a boat to accompany the march of the camp as, without camels to + carry my tent and baggage, I could not accompany it by land. On the 25th, + all the boats followed the departure of the troops; the wind was ahead, + and the direction of the river the same as repeatedly before mentioned. We + proceeded slowly by the cordel. This circumstance gave me an opportunity + of visiting the Pyramids which I have mentioned as in view from Meroe. + They stand about half a mile from the right hand bank of the river. I + counted twenty-seven, none of them perfect, and most of them in ruins; the + greater part of them are built of stone, and are evidently much more + ancient than those of Meroe. + </p> + <p> + The largest is probably more than a hundred feet square, and something + more in height. It presents a singularity in its construction worthy of + notice. It is a pyramid within a pyramid; i.e. the inner pyramid has been + cased over by a larger one; one of its sides being in ruins makes this + peculiarity visible. By climbing up the ruined side, it is easy to reach + its summit. No remains of a city or any traces of temples are visible in + the immediate vicinity of this place, which is called by the natives + "Turboot." + </p> + <p> + On the 23d we came in view of the lower end of the rapids of the Third + Cataract; those hereabouts are called "the rapids of Oula" We were obliged + to consume thirty-nine days in getting as far as the island of Kendi, + (which is not above fifty miles from Meroe.) As the direction of the river + continued almost the same, coming from about the north-east, and the wind + being almost invariably ahead, the difficulties attending advancing the + boats by the cordel were very great, as the river here is spotted by an + infinity of islands and rocks. In some of the passages where the water was + deep, the current was as swift as a mill-sluice, which made it necessary + to employ the crews of perhaps twenty boats to drag up one at a time. In + other passages, where the water was very shallow, it was sometimes + necessary to drag the boats by main force over the stones at the bottom. + The camp of the Pasha remained during all this time about eight hours + march above Meroe, on the right bank of the river, waiting till the boats + should have passed the rapids. No military movements took place, except + detaching the Divan Effendi with four hundred cavalry, to join the + detachment already in Berber, where all was quiet and friendly. The + country on the rapids of the Third Cataract is sterile, being composed, + for the most part, of black granite and sand, excepting some of the + islands, which contained good ground, and a few spots on the shores, where + the floods of the river had deposited some fertile soil. The rocks by the + shore presented indications which proved that the river had risen in some + of its floods about twenty feet above its present level. Ostriches are not + unfrequently seen hereabouts. We have met with no ruins of any ancient + building of consequence on these rapids, except the ruins of a strong fort + on the right bank of the river, and those of what was probably a Christian + Monastery on the bank right opposite. This place, I was told, is called + "Kennis;" it is about thirty miles above Meroe.<a href="#linknote-25" + name="linknoteref-25" id="linknoteref-25"><small>25</small></a> We passed + one small island, which the natives said was called also Meroe, as well as + the site where we found the pyramids and temple below. No indications of a + considerable city are however to be found on this island, which is beside + too small to have served for the emplacement of a city of consequence. + Khalil Aga, who swam over to this island, reported that he had seen there + the ruins of brick houses, and many fragments of porcelain; of the latter + there are immense quantities among all the ruined edifices found in this + country.<a href="#linknote-26" name="linknoteref-26" id="linknoteref-26"><small>26</small></a> + The island of "Kendi" is large, and in some parts cultivated; it contains + evident traces of brick buildings, among which we found fragments of + ancient pottery and porcelain, but no ruins of any considerable building. + </p> + <p> + We stayed for three days as high up as the middle of the island of Kendi. + On the 6th of Jamisalawal the boats received orders to descend to the + lower end of the island, in order to take the passage on its right hand + side, that on the left being so shallow as not to be passed but with great + difficulty. We descended accordingly, and remained at its lower extremity + till the thirteenth of the moon, which delay was occasioned by the absence + of the Rais Bashi, who had gone up to examine and sound the passages + through the remainder of the Third Cataract. On the thirteenth, our boat + and many others passed over to the right bank of the river, in order to be + on the same side as was the camp of the Pasha,<a href="#linknote-27" + name="linknoteref-27" id="linknoteref-27"><small>27</small></a> and to + have free communication with it. + </p> + <p> + The same day I received an order from the Pasha to come to the camp with + my baggage. I went accordingly and presented myself to his Excellency, and + demanded to know his pleasure. He replied, that it was his will that I + should stay in the camp, and that he would immediately furnish me with the + means of accompanying him in his intended march to Berber over the Desert. + Five days after, his Excellency broke up his camp, and proceeded about + four leagues higher up the rapids, where the boats were found stopped by + the impossibility of proceeding any farther, as the water was found to be + too low to admit their passing. I arrived at this place (opposite the + upper end of the island of Kendi) on the same day with his Excellency, + having left orders to my domestics to follow with my camels and baggage. + The next morning, finding that they had not arrived, and learning that it + was the intention of the Pasha to commence his march to Berber that day, I + mounted my horse to go and ascertain the reason why my camels had not + arrived. I learned, as I proceeded, that one of them had fallen under his + load, and that it would be necessary to send back the first that should + arrive and be unloaded, to take the burden of the other. All my effects, + inconsequence, did not arrive before evening. During my absence to see + after this vexatious affair, the Pasha had departed with the camp, as I + learned the same evening on my return. After leaving the most bulky part + of my baggage in one of the boats, I proceeded on the 21st to the place + where the Pasha's last camp had been, to join some party who should have + been delayed by circumstances similar to my misadventure. On my arrival I + found the Hasna Katib, and about three hundred soldiers, waiting till + camels should come from Berber to carry them to join the Pasha. There + were, besides, seven hundred Mogrebin infantry in the boats, awaiting the + means of transporting their tents and baggage across the Desert. On my + representing to the Hasna Katib the circumstance that had delayed me, he + informed me that the Selictar was expected from below in a few days, who, + on the day after his arrival, would proceed after the Pasha, and that I + had better accompany him. I accepted the advice, and pitched my tent to + await the arrival of the Selictar. The same day I was informed that all + the large boats had received orders to abandon the attempt to pass the + remainder of the third cataract of the Nile. They had already, with great + difficulty, got through about fifty difficult passages, and it was + reported that there were nearly one hundred more ahead before the third + cataract could be got clear of. When the river is full, and the flood, of + course, strong, this cataract must, in my opinion, be almost impassable + upwards, as, on account of the strange direction of the river, little or + no aid can be derived from the wind, and the current in some places, from + the straitness of the passages between the rocks and islands, must, in the + time of the inundation, be very furious, while the cordel, from the + natural obstacles which cover the shore of this cataract, could hardly + overcome the difficulties which every mile or two would present.<a + href="#linknote-28" name="linknoteref-28" id="linknoteref-28"><small>28</small></a> + </p> + <p> + On the first day of the moon Jamisalachar, the Selictar arrived from + below, where he had been to collect durra for the army. Two days after I + set forward in company with him to pass the Desert. The road for two days + lay near the bank of the river. By the middle of the afternoon of the + first day we arrived at a pleasant spot on the border of the Nile, where + we encamped to pass the night. On the morning following we mounted our + horses at sunrise, and by mid-day arrived at a fine pond of water at the + foot of a high rock, at no great distance from the river, where we + refreshed ourselves and filled the water-skins, as at this place the roads + turns into the Desert. We marched from the middle of the afternoon till an + hour after midnight, when we halted to sleep. The road for this day was + evidently the dry bed of an arm of the Nile, which, during the inundation, + is full of water. Even at this season the doum tree and the acacia, which + grew on its borders, were green, and coarse long grass was abundant. At + sunrise of the sixth day of the moon we again mounted, and set forward in + a direction nearly East. Our way lay over low rocky hills, gravelly or + sandy plains, and sometimes through valleys containing plenty of coarse + grass and acacia trees; but no water is to be found above ground at this + season, though it probably might be obtained by sinking wells in some of + these valleys. We halted at noon, and in two hours after again mounted, + and marched till midnight. Our road lay through a country resembling that + we had passed the day before. On the morrow morning, a little after + day-light, we proceeded on our journey, and at noon halted at the only + well of water we found on our route. It lies near two high hills of black + granite. The water was yellow and dirty, and was almost rejected by the + thirsty camels. By the middle of the afternoon we were again on horseback, + and marched till midnight, when some of the camels dropping and dying, and + others giving out, the Selictar found himself obliged to order a halt for + the rest of the night. It was his intention to have marched till morning, + by which time our guides told us that we should arrive at the river. We + threw ourselves on the ground to sleep a few hours, but by sunrise we were + called to mount and away. We proceeded till about noon, when we came in + view of the beneficent river, whose beauty and value cannot be duly + appreciated by any who have not voyaged in the deserts through which it + holds its course. It was on the eighth of the moon when we arrived on its + borders. I had expected that our toilsome forced march would end here, and + had promised myself some repose, which I greatly needed, as I had suffered + much from the heat of the sun, which had burned the skin off my face;—from + fatigue and want of sleep;—from hunger, as we had barely time to + prepare a little rice and bread once in twenty-four hours;—and from + the exasperation of my ophthalmia, which had never entirely quitted me + since I was attacked by it at Wady Halfa, on the second cataract. The + Selictar, however, did not indulge us with more than half a day's and one + night's repose on the bank of the river, which we found well cultivated by + the inhabitants of numerous villages in sight. On the morning of the ninth + day of the moon, we were again called to proceed. For this day our march + lay near the bank of the river, and through and by fine fields of barley, + cotton, and wheat. The day after, our route lay over a narrow space of + rocky land, lying between the river and the hills of the desert. We saw + this day but a few cultivated spots. On the 11th we commenced our march + before sunrise, animated by the information that we should be at the + Pasha's camp by noon or the middle of the afternoon. Our road lay this day + on the edge of the Desert, just where it touches the cultivable soil + deposited by the Nile, which is indicative of the point to which the + inundations of the river extend in this country. On both sides of tills + road was an almost continued succession of villages, which are built here + in order to be out of the reach of the overflowing of the river, which + almost every year here overspreads the country for one or two miles from + its banks. The land liable to this inundation is in part cultivated as + well as any portion of Egypt, and in part devoted to feeding great numbers + of fine horses, camels, dromedaries, kine, sheep, and goats, with which + the country of the Berbers is abundantly stocked. + </p> + <p> + We marched on till nearly set of sun, without halting, when we arrived at + the encampment of the Pasha; it was on our side [i.e. the west side] of + the Nile, which here runs in its natural direction from south to north. At + five or six days march below it, it turns to the left, and describes, from + above its turning point and Dongola, a track something resembling the + following figure—which is the reason why, in coming up the river + from Dongola, we found it running from the north-east. The length of this + curious bend in the river Nile, never known to the civilized world before + the expedition of Ismael Pasha, may be about two hundred and fifty miles + long, the greater part of it all rocks and rapids. + </p> + <p> + The journey from our last encampment on the third cataract to the country + of the Berbers, following the direction of the river, takes eight days of + forced marches, but that by the desert, i.e. across the peninsula formed + by the course of the river between the country of the Berbers and our last + encampment, takes four days forced march. + </p> + <p> + The road from the place where we arrived at the river (in coming from the + desert) up the country of Berber, lies generally on the edge of the + desert, and outside of the fertile land lying between the river and the + desert; of consequence we were rarely led to its banks so as to ascertain + its course and appearance. But from several points where the road + approaches the river, I observed that it winded continually and contained + many beautiful islands, some of them, particularly that named "Sibne," + cultivated like gardens. I also observed that the river, at the lower + extremity of the country of the Berbers, is much interrupted by rocks, and + I have learned, since my arrival, that between the third cataract and the + camp, the water is so low at this season that the Canja of the Pasha + (probably the first boat that ever passed the third cataract of the Nile) + was obliged to be lifted three times over shallow passages. + </p> + <p> + The natives of this country had never seen a sail boat before the arrival + of this Canja. They called it "a water mare" comparing it, by this + appellation, to the swiftest animal with which they are acquainted. They + ran in, crowds to the river's edge to see it mount the current without the + aid of oars. + </p> + <p> + On the 13th, I had a private audience of the Pasha in the evening. His + Excellence received me as usual, and on my informing him of the + circumstance which had prevented my accompanying his march from the + cataract, he assured me that he would give orders, that, for the future, I + should be furnished from the best of his own camels. I preferred to his + Excellence some requests, which he granted immediately, and on my + retiring, requested me to present myself to him frequently. + </p> + <p> + Previous to his march from the third cataract, there had arrived at the + camp ambassadors from Shendi, from Malek Shouus, the chief of the fugitive + Shageians, demanding terms of peace. The Pasha replied, that "the only + terms on which they could obtain peace with him, would be by the surrender + of their horses and arms, and returning to their country to live + tranquilly, and without disturbing their neighbors." The ambassadors + replied, that "they would not give up their horses and arms." The Pasha + then answered, that "then he would come to Shendi and take them." To which + it is said they answered, "Come."<a href="#linknote-29" + name="linknoteref-29" id="linknoteref-29"><small>29</small></a> On + hearing, however, of the rapid march of the Pasha, and of his arrival in + Berber, the chief of Shendi, on whose support it seems Shouus had + calculated, was frightened, and sent his son, bearing some valuable + presents, to the Pasha, to notify his submission, and to receive his + orders. The terror and confusion this step, on the part of one of the most + powerful allies of Sennaar, will occasion to the latter, will probably + prevent the necessity of a battle to ensure its submission. A part of the + remnant of the once powerful Mamalukes of Egypt, who had fled before the + Pasha to Shendi,<a href="#linknote-30" name="linknoteref-30" + id="linknoteref-30"><small>30</small></a> on his arrival in Berber have + surrendered themselves to the protection of the Pasha Ismael. They have + been treated by him with great kindness, and were presented with a + thousand piasters each, to bear their expenses to Cairo, to which place + they have departed, with the assurance of passing the remainder of their + lives in tranquility in Egypt, under the protection and favor of Mehemmed + Ali. They had gone from the camp before my arrival. I was informed that + these Mamalukes were in possession of many slaves and fine horses, which + will turn to good account in Egypt. A small remnant of the Mamalukes at + Shendi, under the direction of a refractory Bey, have fled to the + countries on the Bahar el Abiud, where they will probably perish + miserably. The Divan Effendi, who has been sent to Shendi to arrange the + terms of peace with the Malek of that country, had orders to assure this + Bey and his followers there, of the same favor and protection already + accorded to their comrades, who had already departed for Egypt, but + without success. It is not to be doubted, however, that the remnant of the + once powerful Mamalukes, who have surrendered themselves to the compassion + and protection of the Viceroy, will receive both from him; whose humanity + has been interested in their behalf since their power is gone, and their + number reduced to a few individuals, who, doubtless, will be happy to live + tranquilly in the country these unfortunate fugitives continually sigh + after, and whose sovereignty they have lost by their own misconduct.<a + href="#linknote-31" name="linknoteref-31" id="linknoteref-31"><small>31</small></a> + </p> + <p> + 17th. I passed over in the canja of the Pasha, to the east side of the + river, to visit the capital of Berber, which is nearly opposite to our + camp. On reaching the bank, it is a walk of half an hour through immense + fields of durra, to come to the road that leads to the residence of the + chief. + </p> + <p> + After quitting the plantations, I came to a collection of villages, + extending about three miles down the river. Among these villages is one + called "Goos" which is marked in the maps as the capital of Berber; but + the residence of the Malek,<a href="#linknote-32" name="linknoteref-32" + id="linknoteref-32"><small>32</small></a> or chief of the eastern shore, + is not at Goos, but at another of the collection, much larger, called + Nousreddin, as I was informed, after the name of the present Malek, who + resides there. The houses of these villages, like the rest in the country + of Berber, are built of clay, and roofed with unhewn timber, covered with + trusses of straw; that of the Malek is like those of his people, only + larger. The western shore is governed by another Malek, whose village lies + higher up the river than the emplacement of our camp. The population of + Nousreddin, and the villages adjoining, is considerable. The country is + fertile and well cultivated, and abounds in durra, cotton, barley, fine + horses, camels, dromedaries, kine, sheep, goats and fowls, as does all the + country of Berber. I found in these villages some caravan merchants, who + at present had nothing to sell but coarse cotton cloths. These cotton + cloths form the only clothing of the inhabitants; both men and women wear + them, wrapped round their middle, with one end thrown over the shoulder or + head.<a href="#linknote-33" name="linknoteref-33" id="linknoteref-33"><small>33</small></a> + The Berber, though resembling the fellah of Upper Egypt in complexion, is + generally not so well formed in figure and feature. Many of them have + defective teeth, probably occasioned by the habit of chewing bad tobacco, + (of which they have plenty,) which is common here. + </p> + <p> + The greater part of their household and field work is done by slaves they + purchase from the caravans, coming either from Abyssinia or Darfour. Some + of the owners of female slaves would, for a dollar, without scruple, + permit the soldiers of our camp to sleep with them. The women of Berber, + contrary to the custom in Egypt, go with the face unveiled, without + embarrassment. Both men and women never consider themselves in full dress, + unless the hair of the head has been combed sleek, then braided and + platted together, and afterwards plentifully anointed with butter. They + never cut the hair, I believe; it consequently forms an immense bunch + behind the head, similar to that observable in some of the ancient statues + of Egypt.<a href="#linknote-34" name="linknoteref-34" id="linknoteref-34"><small>34</small></a> + The barbarous practice of excision is universally performed upon all their + females, whether free or slaves; as is the case also among all the tribes + inhabiting the banks of the Nile above Assuan. + </p> + <p> + The people of Berber are, in their exterior deportment, mild and polite. + Every man we meet, uniformly gives us the greeting of peace, "Salaam + aleikoum," and uniformly shows a disposition to accommodate us in every + thing reasonable. This is probably owing to their being, in a very + considerable degree, a commercial people; Berber being every year visited + and traversed by numerous caravans from Abyssinia, Sennaar, Darfour, and + Kordofan. + </p> + <p> + 23d of Jamisalachar. This day arrived the Divan Effendi, from Shendi, + accompanied by the Malek of that province, and the son of Malek Shouus, + the chief of the fugitive Shageias. The Malek of Shendi was accompanied by + a considerable suite, and two most beautiful horses, intended as a present + to the Pasha.<a href="#linknote-35" name="linknoteref-35" + id="linknoteref-35"><small>35</small></a> On being introduced to his + Excellence, he kissed his hand, and pressed it to his forehead, and told + him that he had come to surrender himself and his country to his favor and + protection. His Excellence received him graciously, presented him with + splendid habiliments, and a horse richly caparisoned. After his + presentation was finished, he was conducted to the tent of the Hasnardar, + who was directed by the Pasha to treat him with due hospitality. The son + of Malek Shouus came in behalf of his father, and other distinguished + chiefs of the Shageias, to implore the mercy of the Pasha for these chiefs + and the fugitive remnant of their followers, who were opposite Shendi, + awaiting the decision of the Pasha, as to what was to be their fate. I was + told that the determination of the Pasha continued in their regard the + same, making the surrender of their arms and horses the sine qua non of + peace between him and them. Three days after, the chief of Shendi returned + home the friend of the Pasha. + </p> + <p> + On the 25th of the moon, I passed over to the eastern side of the river, + to purchase camels; as there were many buyers at this time from our camp, + I did not find any good enough for the exorbitant price demanded. I passed + the greater part of the day, and the night following, at the town of + Nousreddin, in the house of one of the principal chiefs of the Berbers. He + bears the title of Malek, as do all the distinguished chiefs of Berber, + Shageia, and Dongola. Their dignity is hereditary, generally passing from + father to son. I have noticed that the families of the Maleks exceed the + common people in respect of stature and stoutness. The Malek, in whose + house I lodged, a man about 60 years of age, was near seven feet high, and + very stout. His eldest son, a young man about 22 years of age, was about 6 + feet 4 inches in stature, stout and well proportioned. I imagine, that + this superiority in size is owing to the circumstance that they eat well + and heartily, and have no work to do beside seeing that others work for + them. The family of this Malek carried their hospitality towards me to a + very extraordinary length for people professing Islam. I was offered, by + the mother and mistress of the house, my choice of two of her daughters + for a bedfellow. They were both young, and the handsomest women I have + seen in Berber, but married to husbands whose houses were at the other end + of the town. When I understood this circumstance, I told the mother, that + a genuine Mussulman ought to regard lying with his neighbor's wife as a + crime almost as bad as murdering him in his bed.<a href="#linknote-36" + name="linknoteref-36" id="linknoteref-36"><small>36</small></a> I am sorry + to be obliged to say, that though the Berbers are a quiet and industrious + people, very civil and disposed to oblige all for whom they have any + regard, yet, with respect to their women, they appear to be unconscious + that their conduct is quite irreconcilable with the precepts of the Koran, + and the customs of their co-religionists. They suffer them to go about + with the face exposed—to converse with the other sex in the roads, + the streets, and the fields; and if the women are accustomed to grant + their favors to their countrymen, as liberally and as frequently as they + did to our soldiers, I should imagine that it must be more than commonly + difficult, in this country, for a man to know his own father.<a + href="#linknote-37" name="linknoteref-37" id="linknoteref-37"><small>37</small></a> + </p> + <p> + On my return to camp, I was amused on the way by a dispute in connection + with this subject, between the Malek I have mentioned and a soldier; it + happened in the boat that brought me back to camp. The boat was heavily + laden, and this gigantic Malek was stepping into it, when the soldier I + have mentioned intimated a determination to exclude him, calling him by + several opprobrious names, and among other terms, "a pimp." Upon this, I + checked the soldier, telling him that this man was a considerable + personage in his country, and extremely hospitable to the Osmanlis. This + mollified the soldier, and the Malek took a place as well as he could. The + Malek then addressed the soldier in a mild manner, and asked him why he + had bestowed such appellations upon one who was a Mussulman, as well as + himself. The soldier positively refused to allow the Malek's claims to + this honorable appellation. The chief demanded upon what grounds the + soldier denied it: "Because," said the soldier, "the women of your country + are all whores, and the men all get drunk with bouza, araky, and other + forbidden liquors, which you make out of durra and dates;" and turning to + me, he demanded "whether he was not right?" The poor chief appeared to be + much vexed that he was unable to reply to this accusation, and remained + silent. The soldier, not content with humbling the unlucky Malek, pursued + his advantage without mercy. "Come," said he to the chief, "I do not + believe that you know any thing about your religion, and I will soon make + you sensible of it" He then asked the chief how many prophets had preceded + Mohammed? If he knew any thing about the history of Dhulkamein and Gog and + Magog? and many others of a similar tenor: how to answer which the + unfortunate Malek was obliged to own his ignorance. The soldier then told + him that "the Commander of the Faithful,"<a href="#linknote-38" + name="linknoteref-38" id="linknoteref-38"><small>38</small></a> the chief + of the Mussulmans, had authorized his Vizier, the Pasha Mehemmed Ali, to + set the people on the upper parts of the Nile to rights, and that now the + Osmanlis were come among them they would probably learn how to behave + themselves. The Malek might, however, have had his revenge upon the + edifying soldier, had he known as well as I did that he had gone over to + the town of Nousreddin expressly to amuse himself with the women of the + country, and had doubtless paid as much attention to the bouza as the most + sturdy toper in Berber. + </p> + <p> + The country of the Berbers, after the best in formation I have been able + to obtain, is small, not extending, from the upper end of the third + cataract, more than eight days march in length on both sides of the Nile. + The Bahar el Uswood, or Black river, bounds it (i.e. on the eastern bank) + on the south, and separates it from the territory of Shendi. The + cultivable land reaches generally to the distance of one or two miles from + the river. It is overflowed generally at the inundation, and its produce + is very abundant, consisting in durra, wheat, barley, beans, cotton, a + small grain called "duchan," tobacco, and some garden vegetables similar + to those of Egypt. Berber also raises great numbers of horned cattle, + sheep, goats, camels, asses, and very fine horses. It is very populous, + the succession of villages being almost continued along the road on both + sides of the river. The houses are built of clay, covered with a flat roof + of beams overlaid generally with straw; but the houses of the Maleks have + generally terraced roofs of beaten clay, This manner of building is + sufficient in a country where no great quantity of rain falls throughout + the year. Some of the houses of the peasants are formed of trusses of + cornstalks, and placed side by side in a perpendicular position, and + lashed together, with roofs of the same materials. All the people sleep + upon bedsteads, as they do also in Dongola and Shageia: these bedsteads + are composed of an oblong frame of wood, standing on four short legs, the + sides of the frame supporting a close network of leathern thongs, on which + the person sleeps; it is elastic and comfortable. + </p> + <p> + Berber contains plenty of salt, which the natives find in some calcareous + mountains between the desert and the fertile land. In its natural state, + it is found mingled with a brown earth, with which the stone of those + mountains is intermixed. This earth the natives dilute with water, which + absorbs the salt and leaves the earth at the bottom; they then pour off + the water into another vessel, and, by exposing it to the sun or fire, the + water is evaporated and the salt remains. + </p> + <p> + The assemblage of villages which compose the capital of Nousreddin, + contains houses enough for a population of five or six thousand souls, but + I do not believe that the actual population of those villages is so great. + </p> + <p> + The language is Arabic, perfectly intelligible to the natives of Egypt, + but containing some ancient words at present disused on the lower Nile; + for instance, the Berber calls a sheep "Kebesh."<a href="#linknote-39" + name="linknoteref-39" id="linknoteref-39"><small>39</small></a> + </p> + <p> + As to the climate, the difference between the heat at two hours afternoon + in the month of the vernal equinox, and at an hour before sunrise, has + been as great as ten degrees of the thermometer of Reaumur, as I have been + informed by one of the medical staff attached to the army, who was in + possession of that instrument. It is at present the commencement of + spring, and the heat at two hours after mid-day, at least to the sense, is + as great as in the month of the summer solstice, in Cairo. I have seen no + ferocious animals, either in Berber or the country below, and believe that + they are rare. + </p> + <p> + 5th of Regeb. The camp continues in Berber, awaiting the arrival of the + remainder of the cannon, ammunition, provisions and troops, from the boats + at the cataract. The reason why these have not been transported hither + before this time, is the want of camels, a large part of the camels + attached to the army having perished, by reason of having been over + fatigued by the Pasha's forced march over the desert, and up the country + of Berber. A considerable number of camels have been obtained from Berber + and sent to the cataract, and more are expected to arrive from Shendi, to + which place the Divan Effendi has accompanied the chief of that country + when he left our camp, in order to receive them. Abdin Cacheff departed + two days past for Dongola, with his division. He is charged, by Mehemmed + Ali, with the government of the country between the second and third + cataracts.<a href="#linknote-40" name="linknoteref-40" id="linknoteref-40"><small>40</small></a> + Twelve hundred men, under the command of Ibrihim Cacheff, are said to be + on the way to replace the vacancy left in our camp by the departure of + Abdin Cacheff. They are expected to arrive in a few days, if not delayed + by the sickness of Ibrihim Cacheff, who, it is said in the camp, is + dangerously ill on the road. + </p> + <p> + 7th of Regeb. This day Nousreddin, the Malek of Berber, came to kiss the + hand of the Pasha. He had been prevented from paying his homage to the + conqueror heretofore by sickness. He brought with him, as a present to the + Pasha, fifty fine horses, and fifty dromedaries of prime breed. He was + well received by his Excellence, and his presents were returned by the + Pasha, by others of great value. Nousreddin is a very tall and very large + man, about sixty years of age. Two days after, having occasion to go to + the other side of the river, I found Nousreddin upon the shore, awaiting + the arrival of a boat to carry him and some of his chiefs over. I paid him + some compliments relative to the handsome horses he had presented to the + Pasha, which pleased him considerably; he invited me to come to his house + and partake of his hospitality. I told him, if circumstances would admit + it, I would visit him in a few days. + </p> + <p> + From the 10th of Regeb to the end of the moon, nothing worth notice took + place, except the successive and gradual arrival of the remainder of the + cannon,<a href="#linknote-41" name="linknoteref-41" id="linknoteref-41"><small>41</small></a> + ammunition, stores and troops from the cataract, which had been left there + when the Pasha quitted it, for want of camels to transport them. On the + last day of the month, arrived the cavalry of Ibrihim Cacheff from Egypt, + consisting of four hundred excellent horsemen; one thousand infantry were + yet far distant, but on their way to join us. Ibrihim Cacheff is at Wady + Halfa, severely sick. + </p> + <p> + On the 2d of the moon Shaban, shortly after the hour of afternoon prayer, + the signal was fired and the tents fell. We mounted our snorting horses, + now lusty from long repose, and commenced our march to traverse the famous + country of the Ethiopian shepherds, at present subject to the Malek of + Shendi. We arrived opposite Shendi, by easy marches, in eight days, and + encamped on the west side of the river, near a very large village called + "Shendi el Garb," i.e. Shendi on the west bank. + </p> + <p> + Our route from Berber led us through a country consisting of immense + plains of fertile soil, extending many miles from the river, and mostly + covered with herbage; mountains or hills were rarely visible.<a + href="#linknote-42" name="linknoteref-42" id="linknoteref-42"><small>42</small></a> + </p> + <p> + We passed many large villages, most of which stood far off from the river, + to be out of the reach of the inundation. The houses of these villages, + particularly as we approached Shendi, were generally built with sloping + roofs of thatched straw, which indicated that this is a country visited by + the rains. We hardly ever, during our march, came in view of the river, + except to encamp. We found it at this season narrow and shallow, though + its bed was frequently a mile and a half broad. At every halt we made, the + chiefs of the country came to salute the Pasha, and seemed to be well + disposed towards the army, whose conduct was very exemplary. + </p> + <p> + On the 9th of the moon, I visited the town of Shendi el Garb, in the rear + of our camp. It is large and well built, in comparison with the other + villages I have seen on the Upper Nile. It contains about six thousand + inhabitants, and has three market places, where the people of the country + exchange dollars and durra for what they have need of. Our piasters they + disliked, being ignorant of their value, but sometimes received them for + fowls, vegetables, butter, and meat, and for durra, but for wheat they + demanded dollars. + </p> + <p> + On the 10th of the moon, I went to Shendi on the east bank, which is the + capital of the country. I traversed the town with some surprise; the + houses are low, but well built of clay. Large areas, walled in for the + reception of the merchandize brought by the caravans, are to be seen in + various parts of the town, which is large, containing probably five or six + thousand inhabitants; the streets are wide and airy, regular market places + are found there, where, beside meat, butter,<a href="#linknote-43" + name="linknoteref-43" id="linknoteref-43"><small>43</small></a> grain and + vegetables are also to be purchased, spices brought from Jidda, gum + arabic, beads, and other ornaments for the women. The people of Shendi + have a bad character, being both ferocious and fraudulent. Great numbers + of slaves of both sexes, from Abyssinia and Darfour, are to be found here, + at a moderate price, a handsome Abyssinian girl selling for about forty or + fifty dollars. The chief of Shendi, the same who had come to our camp in + Berber, has done his uttermost to promote a good disposition in his people + towards the Osmanlis, and has made the Pasha a present of several hundreds + of very fine camels, within the last two days. His house is not built of + better materials than those of his people, and differs from them only in + being larger. Shendi stands about half a mile from the easterly bank of + the river. Its immediate environs are sandy; it derives its importance + solely from being the rendezvous of the caravans of Sennaar and the + neighboring countries going to Mecca or Egypt. The territory belonging to + the chief of Shendi is said to be very large,<a href="#linknote-44" + name="linknoteref-44" id="linknoteref-44"><small>44</small></a> but by no + means peopled in proportion to its extent. He can, however, in conjunction + with the Malek of Halfya, bring into the field thirty thousand horsemen, + mounted on steeds probably as beautiful as any found in any country in the + world. + </p> + <p> + On the 14th of the moon, some soldiers, who went to a village in the + neighborhood of the camp, to get their rations of durra from the magazine + in this village, which had been formed there by its chief, for the service + of the army, were insulted, maltreated, and two of them killed outright + with lances, and others severely wounded by the inhabitants. On the news + of this outrage reaching the camp, the soldiers took arms, and mounted, to + proceed to this village, with the full determination to revenge the death + of their comrades in the severest manner. In five minutes nearly all the + camp was upon the march for this village, when the Pasha sent orders to + stop them and leave the affair to him. It was however impossible to + prevent the greater part of them from proceeding to the village, which + they pillaged and destroyed, sacrificing to their fury many of its + inhabitants. The plunder which they brought back was however seized by the + Selictar, and by the Pasha's orders restored to its owners. + </p> + <p> + The conduct of his Excellence on this occasion was highly laudable, while + it must be confessed that that of the soldiers was not much to be blamed. + Durra—a miserable pittance of durra, scarcely sufficient to support + nature, was all that was required from the people of these countries, + money free; and this, in the instance mentioned, was refused by a people + whose chief had already granted it—a people absolutely within our + power, and who extorted from the starving soldiery enormous prices for + every thing they sold us, and who frequently refused to sell us any thing + at all with great ferocity and insolence. + </p> + <p> + On the 15th of the moon, at two hours before sunset, the signal was fired, + and the camp of the Pasha rose to commence its march for Sennaar. We + marched till midnight, and reposed, as usual, on the bank of the river + till about the same hour of the afternoon of the 16th of the moon, when we + pursued our march for five hours, and halted by the river. We stayed here + till the 18th, in the afternoon, in order to obtain three days rations for + the horses from the villages in the neighborhood, which are numerous and + large, as the country through which our route would lie for that time, is + destitute of inhabitants and cultivation. + </p> + <p> + It was on the 16th that Malek Shouus, the chief of the fugitive Shageias, + who had fled as the army approached up the country, came at length to the + camp to surrender himself to the discretion of the Pasha. He addressed the + Pasha, as I have been informed, as follows: "I have fought against you to + the utmost of my means and power, and am now ready, if you will, to fight + under the orders of my conqueror." The courage this man had shown in + battle, and his firmness in adversity, had engaged the respect of the + Osmanlis, and he is as graciously received by the Pasha, who created him a + Bimbashi, and received him, his companions, and followers, into his + service. Malek Shouus is a large stout man, of a pleasing physiognomy + though black, of about forty years of age, and was considered as the + greatest warrior among the people of the Upper Nile, who all stood in awe + of him.<a href="#linknote-45" name="linknoteref-45" id="linknoteref-45"><small>45</small></a> + </p> + <p> + The 19th, 20th, and 21st of the moon, were employed in traversing the + naked country before-mentioned, which is barren, rocky, and without + cultivation. We marched for three days, from the middle of the afternoon + till midnight. It was not till the second hour after midnight, however, of + the third day, that we arrived at a country on the border of the Nile, + containing several villages, where we remained till the middle of the + afternoon of the 21st. On our arrival at these villages, the darkness and + severe hunger engaged several of the soldiers to take, by force, sheep and + goats from the inhabitants. The officers of the Pasha vigorously + interposed to prevent this infraction of the orders of his Excellence, and + several of the guilty were severely punished for taking forbidden means to + gratify the demands of nature. + </p> + <p> + At the hour of afternoon prayer the signal was fired, and the camp + proceeded onwards. We left the villages afore-mentioned, and passed + through a sandy tract covered with bushes and the thorny acacia, which + embarrassed our march, and, by occasioning several detours, caused the + army to lose its way. After wandering about till midnight, the camp at + length arrived on the bank of the Nile. + </p> + <p> + On the 22d, at the rising of the moon, the camp proceeded, and halted in + the forenoon on the beach of the river, opposite Halfya, a very large + village on the easterly bank. We stayed here till the twenty-sixth to + obtain durra from this territory, whose chief brought, as a present to the + Pasha, some fine horses and many camels, and received, in return, some + valuable presents. Our side of the river is desert, and covered with trees + and bushes. During our stay opposite Halfya, the Nile, on the night of the + 23d, rose suddenly about two feet, and inundated some parts of the sandy + flats where we were encamped; the water entering the tents of several, my + own among others, and wetting my bed, arms, and baggage.<a + href="#linknote-46" name="linknoteref-46" id="linknoteref-46"><small>46</small></a> + It had risen a little shortly after the equinox, while the army was in + Berber, and afterwards subsided more than it had risen. We find the sky + every day more and more overcast; distant thunder and lightning, + accompanied with violent squalls, (which have overset my tent twice,) are, + within a few days, frequent, and drops of rain have fallen in our camp. + </p> + <p> + On the 26th, at one hour after noon, we proceeded to the Bahar el Abiud, + about five hours march above our present position, where the Pasha intends + to cross into the territory of Sennaar. The camp arrived at sunset at a + position a little above where the Nile falls into the Bahar el Abiud, and + stopped. Immediately on my arrival, I drank of this river, being, + probably, the first man of Frank origin that ever tasted its waters. + </p> + <p> + The Nile is not half as broad as the Bahar el Abiud, which is, from bank + to bank, one mile higher than where the Nile joins it, about a mile and a + quarter in breadth. It comes, as far as we can see it, from the + west-south-west. The Nile of Bruce must, therefore, after the expedition + of Ismael Pasha, be considered as a branch of a great and unexplored + river, which may possibly be found to be connected with the Niger. + </p> + <p> + On the 27th, early in the morning, the Pasha commenced transporting the + army over the Bahar el Abiud, by means of nine small boats, which had been + able to pass the third Cataract, and follow the army. The country on our + side of the Bahar el Abiud, is uncultivated, and apparently without + inhabitants. The army is encamped by the side of the river, on a beautiful + plain of good soil, extending a considerable distance back towards the + desert. During the inundation, this plain becomes evidently an island, as + there is a channel worn by water, in the rear of it, at this season dry. + The tracks of the hippopotamus are found throughout this plain. + </p> + <p> + By the 29th, in the afternoon, i.e. in two days and a half, the Pasha had + finished transporting into Sennaar the whole of his camp, consisting of + about six thousand persons, with the artillery, ammunition, tents, + baggage, horses, camels, and asses, by the aid of nine boats, none of them + large, an expedition, I believe, unparalleled in the annals of Turkish + warfare.<a href="#linknote-47" name="linknoteref-47" id="linknoteref-47"><small>47</small></a> + </p> + <p> + During our stay on the other side of the Bahar el Abiud, it was reported + in the camp that some of the Mogrebin soldiers, gone out to shoot + gazelles, had killed in the desert which lies off from the river, an + animal, resembling a bull, except that its feet were like those of a + camel. I did not see this animal, but the story was affirmed to me by + several. + </p> + <p> + The army, on its crossing the Bahar el Abiud, encamped on the point of + land just below which the Bahar el Abiud and the Nile join each other. The + water of the Bahar el Abiud is troubled and whitish, and has a peculiar + sweetish taste. The soldiers said that "the water of the Bahar el Abiud + would not quench thirst." This notion probably arose from the circumstance + that they were never tired of drinking it, it is so light and sweet. The + water of the Nile is at present perfectly pure and transparent, but by no + means so agreeable to the palate as that of the Bahar el Abiud, as I + experimented myself, drinking first of the Bahar el Abiud, and then + walking about two hundred yards across the point, and drinking of the + Nile, the water of which appeared to me hard and tasteless in comparison. + </p> + <p> + Nothing of the kind could be easier than to ascend the Bahar el Abiud from + the place where we are. A canja, well manned and armed, and accompanied by + another boat containing provisions for four or six months, and both + furnished with grapnels to enable them at night to anchor in the river, + might, in my opinion, ascend and return securely: as the tribes on its + borders have great dread of fire-arms, and will hardly dare to meddle with + those who carry them. + </p> + <p> + We stayed on the Sennaar side of the Bahar el Abiud till the 1st of + Ramadan, when the army commenced its march for Sennaar, the capital, + proceeding by the bank of the Nile.<a href="#linknote-48" + name="linknoteref-48" id="linknoteref-48"><small>48</small></a> + </p> + <p> + The army reached Sennaar in thirteen days. The signal for striking the + tents and loading the camels was generally fired about two hours after + midnight. One hour was allowed for loading the baggage, when a second + cannon was fired, and the march of the army commenced, and was continued + each day till about two or three hours before noon, when the camp reposed + till about two hours after midnight of the same day. The army suffered + severely during this march; nothing was given to the troops for + subsistence but durra, unground, which the soldiers were frequently in + great distress to obtain the means of making into meal, in order to bake a + little miserable bread, which was all they had to eat.<a + href="#linknote-49" name="linknoteref-49" id="linknoteref-49"><small>49</small></a> + For myself, I was reduced to great extremity. The camel, carrying my + provisions and culinary utensils, and several other articles, was lost by + the carelessness of a domestic. I was consequently left without any thing + to eat, or the means of preparing what I might obtain. I threw myself + under the hospitable shade of the tent of Mr. Caillaud, (then only + occupied by Mr. Constant, his companion,) the gentleman I have mentioned + in the Preface with so much well merited esteem, where I stayed till my + arrival at Sennaar. + </p> + <p> + The country we traversed is that part of the kingdom of Sennaar which lies + between the Nile and the Bahar el Abiud. It is an immense and fertile + plain, occupied by numerous villages, some of them very large; that of + "Wahat Medinet," for instance, containing, probably, four or five thousand + inhabitants. What country we saw was, at this season, perfectly naked of + grass, consisting generally of immense fields which, in the season past, + had been planted with durra. Acacia trees, and bushes in the country far + back from the river, (which is sandy,) were abundant, but no herbage was + visible; I did not see throughout our route a single waterwheel;<a + href="#linknote-50" name="linknoteref-50" id="linknoteref-50"><small>50</small></a> + and I believe that the country is only cultivated when the inundation has + retired. + </p> + <p> + The houses of the villages are built in the following manner. A circle of + stakes is planted in the ground, a conical frame of poles attached to + these stakes below, and meeting and fastened at the top of the cone, forms + the roof. This roof, and the sides of the house, are then covered with + thatched straw, which suffices to exclude the rains. + </p> + <p> + Some of the houses, however, belonging to the chiefs are of a stronger + fabric, being composed of thick walls made of bricks dried in the sun, and + having terraced roofs. In the thatched cottages I have mentioned, the air + and light come in by the doorway and four small holes pierced in the walls + of the house. This scanty ventilation renders these cottages very hot and + close: the difference between the temperature of an inhabited house and + that of the air outside being, in my judgment, almost as great as that of + the undressing room of a bath at Cairo, and that of the passage just + outside of the bath itself. This circumstance alone is almost sufficient + to account for the great mortality in Sennaar, during the rainy season, + when whole families are shut up in these close cottages; and every one who + goes abroad must necessarily go with his pores in a condition expressly + adapted to make him catch a cold or a fever. + </p> + <p> + Six days before the army reached Sennaar, the Pasha was met by an + ambassador from the Sultan; he had an audience of his Excellence, and + returned the next day to Sennaar. He was a handsome young man, accompanied + by a numerous suite mounted on dromedaries. The army pursued its route, + steadily marching in order of battle, the infantry in the centre, the + cavalry on the wings; the artillery in advance of the centre and the + baggage in the rear, with Shouus' cavalry and the dromedary corps of + Abbadies scouring our front and flanks to a great distance. Two days after + it was reported in the camp that the Sultan of Sennaar was on his way to + meet us with a strong force, preceded by numerous elephants and great + herds of cattle, collected in order to receive and exhaust the fire of our + troops. The Pasha proceeded however steadily on with the army in order of + battle, and equally prepared for peace or war. Two days before the arrival + of the army in Sennaar, as I was riding near the Topgi Bashi, who was in + front of the army with the artillery, I saw a great number of armed men + approaching, mounted on horses and dromedaries. Presently the Malek of + Shendi (who had accompanied the Pasha)<a href="#linknote-51" + name="linknoteref-51" id="linknoteref-51"><small>51</small></a>, rode up + to the Pasha and informed him that the strangers approaching were the + principal officers of the Sultan of Sennaar, and their suite, who had come + to demand terms of peace. + </p> + <p> + I saw these personages when they arrived. They were two, one a tall thin + elderly man of a mulatto complexion, dressed in green and yellow silks of + costly fabric, with a cap of a singular form, something resembling a + crown, made of the same materials, upon his head. The other was the same + young man who had come a few days past to the Pasha. He was dressed to-day + in silks like the other, except that his head was bare of ornament. They + were accompanied by a fine lad about sixteen, who was, it is said, the son + of the predecessor of the present Sultan. All three were mounted on tall + and beautiful horses, and accompanied by about two hundred soldiers of the + Sultan, mounted on dromedaries, and armed with broadswords, lances and + shields. + </p> + <p> + When the Pasha was informed of their approach by the Malek of Shendi, he + ordered a halt. The tent of the Pasha was pitched, and the ambassadors + were introduced. They were treated with great attention and liberality by + the Pasha, who, during the day and the course of the evening following, + gave them opportunities enough to be convinced of the immense superiority + of our arms to theirs. During the evening, some star rockets and bombs + were thrown for their amusement and edification. No language can do + justice to their astonishment at the spectacle, which undoubtedly produced + the effect intended by the Pasha—humility and a sense of + inferiority. The next morning at an early hour the army pursued its march, + accompanied by the ambassadors from Sennaar. + </p> + <p> + About the hour of noon, the outscouts announced to the Pasha that the + Sultan of Sennaar himself was approaching to salute his Excellence. On his + approach, the army received him with the honors due to his rank. He was + conducted to the tent of the Pasha, by the ambassadors he had sent, where + he remained in audience with his Excellence a long time. When the audience + was finished, he and the personages he had before sent to the Pasha were + splendidly habited in the Turkish fashion, and presented with horses, + furnished with saddles and bridles embroidered with gold.<a + href="#linknote-52" name="linknoteref-52" id="linknoteref-52"><small>52</small></a> + </p> + <p> + It was on the morning following that the army reached the capital. We + marched in order of battle. The Pasha, accompanied by the Sultan of + Sennaar and his chief servants, in front. On approaching the city, the + army saluted this long wished for town, where they imagined that their + toils and privations would cease, at least for a time, with repeated and + continued volleys of cannon and musquetry, accompanied with shouts of + exultation. But these shouts subsided on a nearer approach, on finding + this once powerful city of Sennaar to be almost nothing but heaps of + ruins, containing in some of its quarters some few hundreds of habitable + but almost deserted houses. After the camp was pitched, and I had + refreshed myself with a little food, I took a walk about the town. At + almost every step I trod upon fragments of burnt bricks, among which are + frequently to be found fragments of porcelain, and sometimes marble. The + most conspicuous buildings in Sennaar are a mosque, and a large brick + palace adjoining it. The mosque, which is of brick, is in good + preservation; its windows are covered with well wrought bronze gratings, + and the doors are handsomely and curiously carved. The interior was + desecrated by uncouth figures of animals, portrayed upon the walls with + charcoal. This profanation had been perpetrated by the Pagan mountaineers + who inhabit the mountains thirteen days march south of Sennaar, and who, + at some period, not very long past, had taken the town, and had left upon + the walls of the mosque these tokens of possession. + </p> + <p> + The palace is large, but in ruins, except the centre building, which is + six stories high, having five rows of windows.<a href="#linknote-53" + name="linknoteref-53" id="linknoteref-53"><small>53</small></a> By + mounting upon its roof you have the best possible view of the city, the + river, and the environs, that the place can afford. I judged that Sennaar + was about three miles in circumference. The greater part of this space is + now covered with the ruins of houses, built of bricks either burnt or + dried in the sun. I do not believe that there are more than four hundred + houses standing in Sennaar and of these one-third or more are round + cottages, like those of the villages. Of those built of bricks, the + largest is the house of the Sultan. It is a large enclosure, containing + ranges of low but well built habitations of sun-dried bricks, with + terraced roofs, and the interior stuccoed with fine clay. What struck me + the most, was the workmanship of the doors of the old houses of Sennaar, + which are composed of planed and jointed planks, adorned frequently with + carved work, and strengthened and studded with very broad headed nails; + the whole inimitable by the present population of Sennaar. These houses + are very rarely of more than one story in height, the roofs terraced with + fine and well beaten clay spread over mats laid upon rafters, which form + the roof. + </p> + <p> + The city of Sennaar is of an oblong form, its longest side opposite the + river. It stands not at any distance from the river, but directly upon its + west bank, which consists hereabouts of hard clay. + </p> + <p> + The river is now rising,<a href="#linknote-54" name="linknoteref-54" + id="linknoteref-54"><small>54</small></a> but exhibits itself at present + to the view as narrow and winding, as far as the eye can reach, between + sand flats, which will shortly be covered by its augmenting waters. The + bed of the Nile opposite Sennaar may be reckoned at about half a mile + broad. + </p> + <p> + The environs of Sennaar are wide plains, containing large and populous + villages. A long ragged mountain, the only one visible, stands about + fifteen miles to the west of the town. Below the town is a small but + pretty island, whose inhabitants thrive by raising vegetables for the + market of Sennaar; and the opposite bank of the river, presents several + verdant patches of ground devoted to the same object.<a href="#linknote-55" + name="linknoteref-55" id="linknoteref-55"><small>55</small></a> Beyond + these spots, the country on the other bank appeared to be mostly covered + with trees and bushes, among which I saw four elephants feeding. + </p> + <p> + I could not find any remains of any very ancient building in Sennaar + during my stay, and I believe that none exists there. Such is the present + appearance of a town which has evidently been once rich, comfortable and + nourishing, but which, for eighteen years past, as I have been informed, + has been the lacerated prey of War and Confusion. + </p> + <p> + On the day after our arrival the conditions of the accord between the + Pasha and the Sultan of Sennaar were arranged and sealed; by which the + latter recognized himself as subject and feudatory of the Grand Seignor, + and surrendered his dominions to the supremacy and sway of the Vizier of + the Padischah, Mehemmed Ali Pasha. The next day the Tchocadar Aga of his + Highness the Viceroy of Egypt, who had arrived in our camp two months + past, embarked in the canja of the Pasha Ismael to carry the documents of + this important transaction to Cairo. + </p> + <p> + For several days after our arrival at Sennaar, our camp was incommoded by + furious squalls of wind, accompanied with thunder, lightning, and torrents + of rain. The Pasha therefore determined to caserne the troops in the + houses of the town, and to stay there during the rainy season. In ten days + after our arrival, the army was distributed throughout the town and in the + villages on the opposite bank of the river. The Pasha himself took up his + quarters in a large house of the Sultan of Sennaar, which had been + prepared for his accommodation. + </p> + <p> + A few days after our arrival, a slave informed the Pasha that the Sultan + of Sennaar, before our arrival, had thrown into the river some cannon. The + Pasha ordered search to be made; four iron guns were discovered by divers, + and were dragged on shore. They appeared to me to be ordinary ship guns; + no mark or inscription was found on them to enable me to judge where they + were fabricated. I believe them however to have been originally obtained + of the Portuguese by the Abyssinians, from whom the people said the Sultan + of Sennaar had taken them in some ancient war between the two kingdoms. + </p> + <p> + On the 19th of Ramadan, a party of Bedouins were ordered by the Pasha to + go in pursuit of some hundred black slaves of the Sultan of Sennaar, who + some time before our arrival had run away, taking with them some of his + best horses. On the 23d they returned, bringing with them between five and + six hundred negroes of both sexes. But on Malek Shouus going to the Pasha + and representing to him that these people were not the fugitives in + question, the Pasha ordered them to be immediately released and to return + to their respective villages. + </p> + <p> + About the same time the Pasha detached Cogia Achmet with thirteen hundred + cavalry and three pieces of artillery to the upper country of Sennaar + between the Bahar el Abiud and the Nile to secure its submission.<a + href="#linknote-56" name="linknoteref-56" id="linknoteref-56"><small>56</small></a> + And on the 26th of the moon the Divan Effendi was sent with three hundred + men across the Nile, to secure that part of the kingdom of Sennaar which + lies on the east side of the Nile.<a href="#linknote-57" + name="linknoteref-57" id="linknoteref-57"><small>57</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Seven days after our arrival in Sennaar I put in execution a resolution + the state of my health obliged me to determine on, and demanded of the + Pasha permission to return to Cairo. I represented to him, that all the + critical operations of the campaign were now happily concluded, and + crowned with the fullest success; and that, therefore, he could have no + particular need of me any longer. I stated to him that repeated sickness + during the campaign had rendered my health very infirm, and that a + residence of four months at Sennaar, during the rainy season, would + probably destroy me; and as my presence for that time at least could be no + ways necessary, I requested him to grant the permission demanded, telling + him that if, after the rainy season was finished, he should think proper + to recall me to camp that I would obey the summons. The Pasha hesitated, + and for several days declined granting my request; but on its being + represented to him that the reasons I had stated were really just and + sufficient causes for my return, his Excellence finally told me, that on + the return of Cogia Achmet he should dispatch a courier to Cairo, and that + I should accompany him. + </p> + <p> + On the third day of the Feast of Bairam I saw the Sultan of Sennaar parade + the town in great ceremony. He was mounted on a superb horse, and clothed + in green and yellow silks, but his head was bare of every thing but its + natural wool. Over his head an officer carried a large umbrella of green + and yellow silks in alternate stripes. He was accompanied by the officers + of his palace, and his guard, beautifully mounted, and followed by the + native population of Sennaar, both men and women, who uttered shrill + cries, which were now and then interrupted by the sound of a most + lugubrious trumpet which preceded the Sultan, and which was blown by a + musician who, judging from the tones he produced, seemed to be afflicted + with a bad cough. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th of the moon Shawal, the Divan Effendi returned to Sennaar, + having crushed all attempts to oppose the establishment of the Pasha's + authority in the eastern part of the kingdom of Sennaar, and bringing with + him three of the chiefs of the refractory, and three hundred and fifty + prisoners, as slaves. The events of this expedition were related to me as + follows: "We marched without resistance for eight days, in the direction + of the rising sun, through a country fine, fertile, and crowded with + villages, till we came to some larger villages near a mountain called + 'Catta,' where we found four or five hundred men posted in front of them + to resist our march They were armed with lances, and presented themselves + to the combat with great resolution. But on experiencing the effects of + our fire-arms, they took to flight toward the mountain; two hundred of + them were hemmed in, and cut to pieces, and three of their chiefs were + taken prisoners, as well as all the inhabitants we could find in their + villages; after which we returned." + </p> + <p> + On my demanding if water was plentiful at a distance from the river, my + informant replied, that "there were wells in abundance in all the numerous + villages, with which the country abounds; and also numerous rivulets and + streams, which at this season descend from the mountains. The troops, he + said, had forded two small rivers (probably the Ratt and the Dandar); he + added, that the country abounded in beautiful birds and insects, one of + the latter he brought with him; it was a small scarabeus, covered with a + fine close crimson down, exactly resembling scarlet velvet. The people of + the country he described as very harmless, and exceedingly anxious to know + what had brought us to Sennaar to trouble them." + </p> + <p> + Two of these Chiefs taken prisoners the Pasha ordered to be impaled in the + market-place of Sennaar. They suffered this horrid death with great + firmness. One of them said nothing but "there is no God but God, and + Mohammed is his Apostle," which he frequently repeated before impalement; + while the other, named Abdallah, insulted, defied, and cursed his + executioners, calling them "robbers and murderers," till too weak to + speak, when he expressed his feelings by spitting at them.<a + href="#linknote-58" name="linknoteref-58" id="linknoteref-58"><small>58</small></a> + The third Chief was detained prisoner, in order to be sent to Cairo. + </p> + <p> + During my stay in Sennaar, I endeavored to get information of the people + of the country, and of the few caravan merchants found in the market-place + of Sennaar, relative to the Bahar el Abiud and the Nile. The information I + received was as follows: "The source of the Adit (so the people of Sennaar + call the river that runs by their city) is in the Gibel el Gumara, (i.e. + that great range of mountains called the Mountains of the Moon,) about + sixty days march of a camel from Sennaar. in a direction nearly south. It + receives, at various distances above Sennaar, several smaller rivers which + come from Abyssinia and from the mountains south of Sennaar. The general + course of the Bahar el Abiud (they said) was nearly parallel with that of + the Adit, but its source was much farther off, among the Gibel el Gumara, + than that of the Adit. The Bahar el Abiud, they said, appears very large + at the place where the Pasha's army crossed it, because it is augmented + from the junction of three other rivers, one from the south-west, and two + others from the east, running from the mountains south of Sennaar."<a + href="#linknote-59" name="linknoteref-59" id="linknoteref-59"><small>59</small></a> + On my asking them, "whether the Bahar el Abiud was open and free of + shellals or rapids?" they said, "that at a place called Sulluk, about + fifteen days march above its junction with the Adit, (i.e. above the place + where we crossed the Bahar el Abiud,) there was a shellal, which they + believed that boats could not pass.<a href="#linknote-60" + name="linknoteref-60" id="linknoteref-60"><small>60</small></a> On my + asking whether, by following the banks of the Bahar el Abiud and the river + that empties into it from the west, it was not possible to reach a city + called Tombut or Tombuctoo?" They said, that "they knew nothing of the + city I mentioned, having never been farther west than Kordofan and + Darfour." + </p> + <p> + This was all I could learn: but I am disposed to believe, that the main + stream of the Bahar el Abiud cannot have its source in the same latitude + with that of the Adit, because it commenced its rise, at least, this year, + about twenty days sooner than did the Adit, and the different color of its + waters proves that it flows through a tract differing in quality of soil + from that through which passes the Adit. The interesting question, + "whether the Niger communicates with the Bahar el Abiud?" will, however, + very probably be determined before the close of another year, as the Pasha + will probably send an expedition up that river. + </p> + <p> + Secondly, I am further disposed to believe that the main stream of the + Adit, or Nile of Bruce, does not take its rise in Abyssinia, but in the + mountains assigned as the place of its origin by the people of Sennaar. + For on viewing the mass of water that runs by Sennaar even now, when the + river has not attained two-thirds of the usual magnitude it acquires + during the rainy season, I can by no means believe that the main source of + such a river is only about three hundred miles distant from Sennaar. + </p> + <p> + The tract of country included between the Adit and the Bahar el Abiud is + called El Gezira, i.e. the island: because, in the season of the rains, + many rivers running from the mountains in the south into the Bahar el + Abiud and the Adit, occasion this tract to be included by rivers. + </p> + <p> + I am disposed to believe, that the representations made of the climate of + this country are much exaggerated; as, except during the rainy season, and + immediately after it, the country is a high and dry plain,<a + href="#linknote-61" name="linknoteref-61" id="linknoteref-61"><small>61</small></a> + by no means excessively hot, because the level of the countries on the + Nile being constantly ascending from Egypt, occasions Sennaar to be many + hundred feet higher than the level of Egypt, which is proved by the rapid + descent of the waters of the Nile toward the latter country. The east and + south winds also are, in Sennaar, cool breezes; because they come either + from the mountains of Abyssinia, or the huge and high ranges which compose + the Gibel el Gumara. I was in Sennaar at Midsummer, and at no time found + the heat very uncomfortable, provided I was in the open air, and under a + shade. In the cottages and houses, indeed, on account of their want of + ventilation, the heat was excessive. + </p> + <p> + I made during my stay in Sennaar frequent inquiries about the fly + mentioned by Bruce; the people of Sennaar said they knew nothing of it;<a + href="#linknote-62" name="linknoteref-62" id="linknoteref-62"><small>62</small></a> + but, in reply to my inquiries, referred to a worm, which they say comes + out of the earth during the rainy season, and whose bite is dangerous. + </p> + <p> + The reptile species in Sennaar are numerous. The houses are full of + lizards, which, if you lie on the floor, you may feel crawling or running + over you all night. I saw at Sennaar a serpent of a species, I believe, + never before mentioned. It was a snake of about two feet long, and not + thicker than my thumb, striped on the back, with a copper colored belly, + and a flat head. This serpent had four legs, which did not appear to be of + any use to him, as they were short and hanging from the sides of his + belly. All his motions, which were quick and rapid, were made in the usual + manner of serpents, i.e. upon its belly.<a href="#linknote-63" + name="linknoteref-63" id="linknoteref-63"><small>63</small></a> + </p> + <p> + I do not feel authorized to give an opinion as to the national character + of the people inhabiting the kingdom of Sennaar; but I am obliged to + consider the inhabitants of the capital as a very detestable people. They + are exceedingly avaricious, extortionate, faithless, filthy and cruel.<a + href="#linknote-64" name="linknoteref-64" id="linknoteref-64"><small>64</small></a> + The men are generally tall and well shaped, but the females are, almost + universally, the ugliest I ever beheld; this is probably owing to their + being obliged to do all sorts of drudgery. + </p> + <p> + The children of these people, and indeed of all the tribes on the Upper + Nile, go quite naked till near the age of puberty. A girl unmarried is + distinguished by a sort of short leather apron, composed of a great number + of leather thongs hanging like tassels from a leather belt fastened round + the waist: and this is all her clothing, being no longer than that of our + mother Eve after her fall. The married women, however, are generally + habited in long coarse cotton clothes, which they wrap round them so as to + cover their whole person, except when they are at work, when they wrap the + whole round the waist. + </p> + <p> + As to the manufactures of the people of the Upper Nile, they are limited, + I believe, to the following articles, Earthenware for domestic uses and + bowls for pipes; cotton cloths for clothing; knives, mattocks, hoes and + ploughs, for agriculture, water-wheels for the same; horse furniture, such + as the best formed saddles I ever rode on, very neatly fabricated; + stirrups in the European form, made of silver for the chiefs, and not like + those of the Turks; large iron spurs, bits with small chains for reins, to + prevent them from being severed by the stroke of an enemy's broadsword; + long and double edged broadswords, with the guard frequently made of + silver; iron heads for lances, and shields made of the hide of the + elephant; to which may be added, that the women fabricate very beautiful + straw mats. + </p> + <p> + There is a general resemblance, in domestic customs, among all the peoples + who inhabit the borders of the Nile from Assuan to Sennaar. They differ, + however, somewhat in complexion and character. The people of the province + of Succoot are generally not so black as the Nubian or the Dongolese. They + are also frank and prepossessing in their deportment. The Dongolese is + dirty, idle, and ferocious. The character of the Shageian is the same, + except that he is not idle, being either an industrious peasant or a + daring freebooter. The people on the third cataract are not very + industrious, but have the character of being honest and obliging. The + people of Berber are by far the most civilized of all the people of the + Upper Nile. The inhabitants of the provinces of Shendi and Halfya are a + sullen, scowling, crafty, and ferocious people; while the peasants of + Sennaar inhabiting the villages we found on our route, are a respectable + people in comparison with those of the capital. Throughout the whole of + these countries there is one general characteristic, in which they + resemble the Indians of America, namely, courage and self-respect. The + chiefs, after coming to salute the Pasha, would make no scruple of sitting + down facing him, and converse with him without embarrassment, in the same + manner as they are accustomed to do with their own Maleks, with whom they + are very familiar. With the greatest apparent simplicity they would + frequently propose troublesome questions to the Pasha, such as, "O great + Sheck, or O great Malek; (for so they called the Pasha) what have we done + to you, or your country, that you should come so far to make war upon us? + Is it for want of food in your country that you come to get it in ours?" + and others similar. + </p> + <p> + On the 14th of the moon Shawal, Cogia Achmet returned to Sennaar, bringing + with him about two thousand prisoners as slaves, consisting almost + entirely of women and children. The events of his expedition were related + to me as follows: He marched rapidly for ten days in a direction about + south-west of Sennaar, (the capital) without resistance, through a + well-peopled country, without meeting with any opposition till he came to + the mountains of Bokki, inhabited by Pagans, the followers of the chief + who had rejected the Pasha's letter. They were posted on a mountain of + difficult access; but their post was stormed, and after a desperate + struggle, they found that spears and swords, though wielded by stout + hearts and able hands, were not a match for fire-arms. They fled to + another mountain, rearward of their first position. They were again + attacked by cannon and musketry, and obliged to fly toward a third + position: in their flight, they were in part hemmed in by the cavalry of + Cogia Achmet, and about fifteen hundred of them put to the sword. Those + who escaped took refuge in a craggy mountain, inaccessible to cavalry. + Cogia Achmet, believing he had made a sufficient proof to them that + resistance on their part was unavailing, and the troops having suffered + great distress by reason of the almost continual rains, after sweeping the + villages of these people of all the population they could find in them, + resumed his march for Sennaar. On their return, they had to ford several + deep streams, at this season running from the mountains, and both horse + and man were almost worn out before they reached Sennaar. + </p> + <p> + The people of Bokki are a hardy race of mountaineers—tall, stout, + and handsome. They are Pagans, worshippers of the sun, which planet they + consider it as profane to look at. The prisoners brought in by Cogia + Achmet resembled in their dress the savages of America; they were almost + covered with beads, bracelets, and trinkets, made out of pebbles, bones, + and ivory. Their complexion is almost black, and their manners and + deportment prepossessing. The arms of these people gave me great surprise: + they consisted of well-formed and handsome helmets of iron, coats of mail, + made of leather and overlaid with plates of iron, long and well fashioned + lances, and a hand-weapon exactly resembling the ancient bills formerly + used in England by the yeomanry. They were represented to me by the Turks + as dangerous in personal combat. They had never seen fire-arms before, and + they nevertheless withstood them with great intrepidity. They said, I was + informed, that a fusee was "a coward's weapon, who stands at a safe + distance from his enemy, and kills him by an invisible stroke."<a + href="#linknote-65" name="linknoteref-65" id="linknoteref-65"><small>65</small></a> + </p> + <p> + On the 17th, the courier carrying the information to Cairo of this + expedition and its results, embarked in a canja to descend the river as + far as Berber, from whence he would proceed by the desert to Egypt. + Agreeably to the promise of the Pasha, I accompanied him. We arrived at + Nousreddin in Berber in five days and nights. Having the favor of the + current, and sixteen oarsmen on board, we descended with great rapidity. + The view of the country from the river is not pleasing, as the villages + lie almost invariably far off from the river; the country, therefore, has + the appearance of being almost uninhabited. We saw great numbers of + hippopotami, who, in the night, would lift their heads out of the water at + no great distance from the canja. They were sometimes fired at, but + without apparent effect. We stopped, during the night, for an hour at + Shendi, to leave orders from the Pasha to a small garrison of Turkish + troops stationed there.<a href="#linknote-66" name="linknoteref-66" + id="linknoteref-66"><small>66</small></a> The river Nile, below the point + of junction with the great Bahar el Abiud, presents a truly magnificent + spectacle.<a href="#linknote-67" name="linknoteref-67" id="linknoteref-67"><small>67</small></a> + Between Halfya and Shendi, the river is straitened and traverses a deep + and gloomy defile formed by high rocky hills, between which the Nile runs + dark, deep, and rapidly for about twelve or fifteen miles. On emerging + from this defile, the river again spreads itself majestically, and flows + between immense plains of herbage, bounded only by the horizon: its banks + nearly full, but not yet overflowed. About thirty miles above Nousreddin, + we passed the mouth of the Bahar el Iswood (on the eastern shore); it is + the last river that empties into the Nile. I estimated it at about + two-thirds of a mile broad at its embouchure. The Nile, below the point of + junction with this river, is more than two miles from bank to bank, at + this season. During the two first days of our voyage, we had some severe + squalls and very heavy rains; but after passing the territory of Sennaar, + we had a sky almost without a cloud. + </p> + <p> + On our arrival at Nousreddin, no more dromedaries could be immediately + obtained than were sufficient to mount the courier and his two guides. I + was, therefore, obliged to tarry five days in Nousreddin before I could + find a caravan journeying to Egypt. + </p> + <p> + On the 28th of Shawal, I quitted Nousreddin, along with a caravan on its + way to Egypt from Sennaar, conducted by a soldier attached to the + Cadilaskier of the army of Ismael Pasha, who was conducting to Egypt + twenty-two dromedaries and camels, and some slaves, belonging to the + Cadilaskier, and four fine horses belonging to the Pasha. + </p> + <p> + We started at about three hours before noon, and after marching for three + hours, stopped at a village named Sheraffey, to obtain rations for the + horses and camels to subsist them through the desert. Our route lay on the + outside of the villages, and on the border of the desert. The villages are + numerous and well built of sun-dried bricks, and the face of the country, + on our side of the river, perfectly level. + </p> + <p> + We stayed at Sheraffey until the next morning: the conductor of the + caravan not being able to obtain at this place the durra he wanted for his + cattle, we proceeded to a village called Hassah, which is about an hour's + march from Sheraffey. We stayed there till next morning. + </p> + <p> + On the 30th of the Moon, at day-light, we mounted our camels, and + proceeded on our road, which lay on the skirts of the desert. We passed a + continual succession of large, well-built and populous villages, lying + about a mile distant from the river; the weather serene and cool, as it + has been since our arrival in Berber. We halted at about the middle of the + forenoon, by a village called Abdea, until an hour and a half before + sunset, when we again set forward, and after marching for three hours and + a half, halted for the remainder of the night in a small village, half in + ruins. The reason of our short marches and frequent stoppages was, to give + the conductor of the caravan opportunities to make provision for passing + the desert. He might have done it at any of the villages, had he been + content to pay the price demanded; but as he was a man who seemed to hold + hard bargains in horror, and to love money with great affection, he did + not give the latter for durra till he was absolutely obliged to make the + afflictive exchange. + </p> + <p> + On the 1st of Zilkade we started at daylight, and marched till about two + hours after sunrise, when we stopped at some villages called Gannettee. + The country we passed since yesterday is the desert, which comes down + close to the river's bank, presenting but few spots fit for cultivation. + We were informed last night, that the camp of Mehemmet Bey, who is on his + way from Egypt with five thousand men, to take possession of Darfour and + Kordofan, is on the other side of the river.<a href="#linknote-68" + name="linknoteref-68" id="linknoteref-68"><small>68</small></a> The + weather continues serene and not very hot. Stayed at Gannettee till about + the middle of the afternoon, when we proceeded on our journey through a a + desert and dreary country, without either habitations or cultivation, as + the desert comes here down to the river. The rocks and stones of the + desert are generally of black granite. No verdure was to be seen, except + on the margin of the river. The river hereabouts is much impeded by rocks + and rapids, but contains many beautiful islands, some of them very large, + fertile, populous, and well cultivated. Malek Mohammed el Hadgin commands + this country. His province, called "El Raba Tab," contains eighty-eight + large and fertile islands, and the shores of the river adjacent. He has a + very high character for courage, morals, and generosity; he resides on the + great island of Mograt, which is said to be about sixty miles long.<a + href="#linknote-69" name="linknoteref-69" id="linknoteref-69"><small>69</small></a> + </p> + <p> + We halted at about three hours before midnight on the bank of the river, + within hearing of a Shellal, where the river forms a regular cataract, + except a small pass on the easterly shore. After reposing the camels an + hour and a half, and refreshing ourselves with bread and the muddy water + of the Nile, we recommenced our march, which was continued without + cessation till an hour before noon next morning, always through the + desert, in order to cut a point of land formed by an angle in the river, + when we stopped under the shade of some fine date trees on the bank of the + river, and in view of one of its large and ever verdant isles, called + Kandessee, in a small island adjoining which Khalil Aga, my companion, + says he saw, when he ascended the third cataract,<a href="#linknote-70" + name="linknoteref-70" id="linknoteref-70"><small>70</small></a> a pyramid + more modern and fresh than any he had seen in these countries. Possibly + the island of Kandessee takes its name from the celebrated Candace, who, + in the reign of Nero, repulsed and defeated the Roman legions, and this + pyramid may be her tomb. Under the date trees, on the bank of the river + opposite to this island, we refreshed ourselves with our usual repast, + bread and water, as the people of a village close by would give us meat + neither for love, money, nor soap,<a href="#linknote-71" + name="linknoteref-71" id="linknoteref-71"><small>71</small></a> of which + latter article they stand in great but unconscious need. + </p> + <p> + 3d of Zilkade quitted our station about two hours after midnight, and went + on our way. Our route continued to lie through the desert, but not far + from the bank of the river; about three hours before noon in the morning + came to a small village, named Haphasheem, lying on the margin of the + river, opposite a verdant island it was delightful to look at. The river + on the third cataract, Khalil Aga tells me, contains a continual chain of + such.<a href="#linknote-72" name="linknoteref-72" id="linknoteref-72"><small>72</small></a> + I could not get any thing to relish our usual repast of bread and water, + except some dates. + </p> + <p> + My eyes to-day were much inflamed by the reflection of the sun's rays from + the sand, and at night were very painful and running with matter. Stayed + here till about the same hour after midnight as yesterday, when we again + set forward. The country the same as yesterday, except that we saw several + stony mountains in the desert, some of them at no great distance from the + river. Some of these mountains must contain ruins, as at the village where + we halted to-day, which we did at about noon, we found a very large and + well-fashioned burnt brick, which the peasants said was brought from one + of these mountains. The whole of the country through which we have passed + for four days contains no cultivable land on this side of the river, + except on its margin; but in compensation for this sterility, the islands + in this part of the river, which are numerous, very large, and very + beautiful, are without a superior for luxuriance of vegetation. Every day + when we have come to the river to halt and refresh ourselves, we found one + or more in view. At this last station I was lucky enough to purchase a + small kid at the enormous price of twelve piasters, the first meat we had + eaten for four days. Applied at night a poultice of dates to my eyes, + which were much inflamed by today's march, and found some relief from the + remedy. At about three hours after midnight we again resumed our travel, + and marched till an hour before noon of to-day, the 5th of Zilkade + expecting to arrive at the place where the road quits the river, and + plunges into the great eastern desert of Africa; but the weather becoming + close and very hot, and the camels fatigued, we halted to repose them and + ourselves on the bank of the river. Shortly after our arrival two of the + camels of the caravan died. Our route still lay through plains and over + hills of rock and sand, which come down to the river's edge, but the + river, as usual, presented a continual succession of beautiful islands. + </p> + <p> + The death of the two camels having alarmed the conductor of the caravan + for the others, we stayed in this place till the middle of the second day + after to repose and refresh them previous to entering the desert. During + our stay here I engaged a man to swim over to the island opposite, to + purchase some durra flour and dates. He could, however, obtain only some + dates. I was obliged, in consequence, to reconcile myself to entering the + desert short of provisions. I had made provision in Berber for fifteen + days, being assured that in twelve days we should have passed the desert, + and arrive at the villages on the bank of the Nile four days march above + Assuan. The unexpected retardments of our march from Berber had, however, + made us nine days in arriving at the place where the road turns into the + desert. On the 7th of the moon, at about two hours before sunset, we + quitted our halting-place, and after only one hour's march by the border + of the river came to a place where the Nile suddenly turns off toward the + south-west.<a href="#linknote-73" name="linknoteref-73" id="linknoteref-73"><small>73</small></a> + At this place the guide told us we were to fill our waterskins, and to + quit the river for the desert. + </p> + <p> + We stayed here till the afternoon of the 8th of the moon. + </p> + <p> + The two last nights we have kept watch, and only slept with our hands upon + our arms, robbers being, we were told, in this neighborhood, who had + lately pillaged some caravans. We were not, however, molested. The desert, + on the border of the river hereabouts, abounds with doum trees, which are + inhabited by great numbers of monkeys. Its fruit furnishes their food. + This fruit consists in a large nut, on the outside covered with a brown + substance almost exactly resembling burned gingerbread. It is, however, so + hard that no other teeth and jaws, except those of a monkey or an Arab, + are well capable of biting it. About one hour's march below our present + position is an encampment of Bedouins and the tomb of a Marabout. The + people of the country and the caravans had piled his grave with camels' + and asses saddles, probably intended as offerings to interest his good + offices in the other world. + </p> + <p> + At about four hours after the noon of the 8th, we quitted the banks of the + Nile, and turned into the desert, carrying as much water as we well could, + myself taking four water-skins for myself, Khalil Aga, and a black slave + of mine. We marched till about an hour before midnight, when we halted for + an hour to breathe the camels and to eat a morsel of bread, after which we + continued our way till nearly day-break, when one of the Pasha's horses + falling down and refusing to rise, it was necessary to wait till the + animal had taken a little rest. We threw ourselves upon the sand, and + slept profoundly for two hours, when we were roused to continue our + journey. We proceeded till about two hours before noon, when we halted in + a low sandy plain, sprinkled here and there with thorny bushes. These + bushes afforded food for the camels, and a miserable shelter from the sun + for ourselves. We shoved embodies under them as closely to their roots as + the thorns would admit, to sleep as well sheltered as possible from the + burning rays of the vertical sun. But sound sleep in this condition was + impossible, as every half-hour the sun advancing in his course contracted + or changed the shadow of the bush, and obliged us to change our position; + as to sleep in his rays in this climate is not only almost impossible but + dangerous, it almost infallibly producing a fever of the brain. + </p> + <p> + The country we traversed this first day's journey is a level plain of sand + and gravel, with scattered mountains of black granite here and there in + view, where no sound is heard but the rush of the wind. The weather was + cool enough during the day, and coldish in the night.<a href="#linknote-74" + name="linknoteref-74" id="linknoteref-74"><small>74</small></a> In the + afternoon we again set forward, proceeding and halting as yesterday, viz. + once for an hour about two hours before midnight, and once again a little + before day-break for an hour and a half. The desert continued to exhibit + the same aspect as before till about midnight, when we quitted the plains + to enter among gloomy defiles, winding between mountains of black granite. + We passed one chain, and at a little beyond the entrance of another, lying + about two leagues to the north of the first, the guide told us that we + were near the well Apseach; soon after we arrived at a place containing + bushes. Here the caravan halted, and those who wanted fresh water filled + their water-skins from the well which lies in the mountains, about an + hour's march from the place where we halted. This well is at the bottom of + an oblique passage leading into one of the mountains, at the termination + of which is found no great quantity of sweet water deposited by the rains + which fall in this country about the time of the summer solstice.<a + href="#linknote-75" name="linknoteref-75" id="linknoteref-75"><small>75</small></a> + During the last two days I traveled in great pain; the reflection of the + sun from the sand, and the strong wind from the north (prevalent at this + season in the desert), which blew its finer particles into my eyes, in + spite of all my precautions to shelter them, exasperated and inflamed + their malady to a great degree, which the want of sufficient shelter from + the sun, during the time of repose, contributed to aggravate. + </p> + <p> + We stayed near the well till about sunset, when we resumed our travel, and + at about three hours after sunrise on the morning of the 10th, came to a + rock in a sandy plain, where the conductor of the caravan ordered a halt. + We distributed ourselves round this rock as well as we could, in order to + repose;<a href="#linknote-76" name="linknoteref-76" id="linknoteref-76"><small>76</small></a> + Khalil Aga and myself making a covering from the sun by means of my + carpet, propped up by our fusees and fastened by the corners to stones we + placed upon the rock, by means of our shawls and sashes. We stayed here + till the middle of the afternoon, when we mounted our camels in order to + reach the well Morat as soon as possible, in order to water those patient + and indispensable voyagers of the desert.<a href="#linknote-77" + name="linknoteref-77" id="linknoteref-77"><small>77</small></a> We + traversed a tolerably level but rocky tract till about two hours after + midnight, when we reached the well. It lies in a valley between two high + chains of mountains of black granite. Its water is somewhat bitter, as its + name imports, and is not drank by travelers except when their water-skins + are exhausted. It serves, however, for the camels of the caravans, and for + the inhabitants of two Arab villages in the vicinity, named "Abu Hammak" + and "Dohap" who brought their camels to water here the morning after our + arrival. These poor but contented people are obliged to subsist, for the + most part, upon their camels' milk, their situation affording little other + means of nourishment. They are, however, independent, and remote from the + tyranny and oppression which afflicts the people of most of the countries + of the east.<a href="#linknote-78" name="linknoteref-78" + id="linknoteref-78"><small>78</small></a> + </p> + <p> + On the rocks near the well we saw some rude hieroglyphics, representing + bulls, horses, and camels, cut in the granite, in the manner of those + found in the rocks near Assuan, on the south side of the cataract. Our + guide tells us that such cuttings in the rocks are found in many of the + mountains of the desert. + </p> + <p> + During our stay at Morat a violent dispute had arisen among the Arabs of + our caravan about some money which had been stolen from one of them. The + man suspected of the theft endeavored to justify himself by much hard + swearing, but circumstances being strong against him, I told the man who + had been robbed, that if the money was not restored previous to our + arrival at Assuan, I would speak to the Cacheff about the affair, who + would take the proper measures to detect and punish the thief. In + consequence of this menace, the man robbed, next morning had the + satisfaction to find unexpectedly that his money had been secretly + restored and deposited among the baggage, from whence it had been stolen. + </p> + <p> + On the 13th, at sunset, we quitted Morat; and after a winding march among + the hills for five hours, we arrived at a broad valley, surrounded by high + mountains and abounding in doum trees, the first we had seen since we + quitted the river. This place is called "El Medina." It contains an Arab + village, whose inhabitants gain something by supplying the caravans with + goats, of which they have many, and by furnishing them with water, of + which they possess several reservoirs filled by the rains. We reposed for + the rest of the night under the doum trees, and in the morning regaled + ourselves with the pure and wholesome water of El Medina, which was to me + particularly grateful after being obliged to drink, for several days, + either the muddy water we had brought from the river, or that of Apseach, + which had become heated by the sun, and impregnated with a disgusting + smell, derived from the new leather of the water-bags which contained it. + I bought here a fat goat and some milk, which made us a feast, which + hunger and several days fasting on bad bread made delicious. + </p> + <p> + We stayed here to water and repose the camels till the afternoon of the + second day after our arrival, when we recommenced our march for the river, + whose distance we were told was three days march from El Medina. During + our stay at El Medina, Khalil Aga my companion was taken very ill with + vomiting and purging, occasioned by having drank of the water of Morat, + against which I had remonstrated without effect. He did not get quit of + the consequences of his imprudence for several days. + </p> + <p> + On the 15th, in the afternoon, we commenced our march for the river. The + desert hereabouts resembles that we passed the two first days after our + quitting the river, being a sandy plain studded with hills and mountains + of granite. We proceeded till about three hours after midnight, when we + lay down to repose till day-break, when we again mounted and continued our + journey till two hours before noon, when we stopped at a rock which had + some holes in it, where we sheltered ourselves from the sun, and dined + with appetite on some coarse durra bread baked upon camel's dung. + </p> + <p> + By the middle of the afternoon we were again on our way, which led through + the deep and winding valleys of three mountains of calcareous stone, which + indicated the proximity of the river, and over hills of deep sand, with + which the eddies of the wind had in many places filled those valleys. + Since we left Morat till we came to these mountains the granite hills had + become rarer, others of calcareous stone here and there presented + themselves, and the level of the desert was constantly ascending<a + href="#linknote-79" name="linknoteref-79" id="linknoteref-79"><small>79</small></a> + I have no doubt that the level of the interior of the desert is lower than + the bed of the river. + </p> + <p> + During the passage over these hills several of the camels gave out, that + of my black slave among the rest.<a href="#linknote-80" + name="linknoteref-80" id="linknoteref-80"><small>80</small></a> Four hours + after sunrise we came to a valley, where there was here and there some + herbs of the desert, where we stopped to let the camels eat, they having + fasted since we left El Medina. + </p> + <p> + We were obliged to look among the rocks for shelter from the sun, each one + arranging himself as well as he could to eat durra bread and drink warm + water, and sleep as soundly as possible. During the course of last night + we fell in with a caravan coming from Assuan; we pressed round them to buy + something to eat; we asked for dates and flour to make bread, but they had + nothing of the kind that they could afford to part with. + </p> + <p> + We stayed at the rock before mentioned till the middle of the afternoon. + On awaking from sleep, I observed two of the Arabs of our caravan busily + employed about our guide. They were a long time engaged in frizzing and + plaiting his hair, and finished the operation by pouring over it a bowlful + of melted mutton suet, which made his head quite white. I asked for the + meaning of this operation at this time; they told me that we should be at + the river to-morrow morning, and that our guide was adorning himself to + see and salute his friends there. He appeared to be highly satisfied with + the efforts of his hair-dressers to make him look decent, and it must be + confessed that he made a very buckish appearance. + </p> + <p> + As soon as our guide had finished his toilette, he mounted his dromedary + and took his post in front, and we set forward. We marched all night + without stopping, which was necessary, as our water was nearly spent,<a + href="#linknote-81" name="linknoteref-81" id="linknoteref-81"><small>81</small></a> + but which distressed greatly that part of our caravan who had no beast to + ride.<a href="#linknote-82" name="linknoteref-82" id="linknoteref-82"><small>82</small></a> + These wretched men had hitherto accompanied us all the way on foot, with + little to eat and less to drink. At present they were almost exhausted + with fatigue, hunger and thirst. Every now and then, one or more of them + would throw himself on the sand in despair. The repeated assurance that + the river was near, hour after hour, became less and less capable of + rousing them to exertion, and the whip was at length applied to make them + get up and go on.<a href="#linknote-83" name="linknoteref-83" + id="linknoteref-83"><small>83</small></a> They demanded water immediately, + which we were too short of ourselves to give them, as we feared every + minute that our camels would drop, which would render every drop of water + we had as precious as life. + </p> + <p> + One unfortunate lad, who had joined the caravan before it entered the + desert, I suspect a domestic who had fled from the distresses that had + found us in the upper countries, made pathetic applications to me for + water; I twice divided with him a bowlful I was drinking, "in the name of + God, the protector of the traveler." + </p> + <p> + This young man, in the course of this toilsome night, had disappeared, + having doubtless laid himself down in despair. We unfortunately did not + miss him till it was too late.<a href="#linknote-84" name="linknoteref-84" + id="linknoteref-84"><small>84</small></a> About two hours before day-break + we reached the entrance of a deep ravine, between ridges and hills of + rocks. We marched in it for six hours. It zigzagged perpetually, and its + bottom was covered with fragments of the rocks that enclosed it, and which + had apparently been displaced by strong currents of water. This phenomenon + surprised me, as the entrance into this ravine being from the plain, it + was evident that the currents which had produced these displacements could + not at any era have come from thence. But at the termination of this + ravine, which ended nearly at the river, the cause became evident. An + ancient canal, now nearly filled up, leads from the river into this + ravine, and the rush of the current during the seasons of inundation, has + loosened and displaced fragments of the bordering mountains. + </p> + <p> + It was about two hours before noon on the 18th of Zilkade, when, emerging + from this ravine, we came upon the bank of the beautiful and blessed + river, which is the very heart and life's blood of all north-eastern + Africa. It was with the most grateful feelings toward "the Lord of the + universe," that I laid myself down under the date trees by its brink to + cool and to wash my swollen and inflamed eyes, whose disorder was greatly + increased by fatigue, a dazzling sun, and want of sleep. + </p> + <p> + Immediately after our arrival at the little village of Seboo,<a + href="#linknote-85" name="linknoteref-85" id="linknoteref-85"><small>85</small></a> + which stands on the canal leading to the ravine before mentioned, myself + and Khalil Aga addressed ourselves to the people of the village to engage + some one to go and bring to the river the unfortunate lad who had been + missed. I told them that, in two hours, a man mounted on a dromedary could + reach the place where he had disappeared, and save his life: I appealed to + their humanity, to their sense of duty towards God and man, to engage them + to go and save him. Finding them deaf to my entreaties, I offered them + money, and Khalil Aga his musket, to bring him safe and sound to the + river. I appealed to their humanity in vain, and to their avarice without + effect.<a href="#linknote-86" name="linknoteref-86" id="linknoteref-86"><small>86</small></a> + We told them that the Christians, in a case of this kind, would send not + one but forty men, if necessary, to go and save a fellow creature from the + horrible death of desert famine; and that heaven would surely require at + their hands the life of this young man, if they neglected to save him At + length the Sheck of the village promised me to send a dromedary to the + place to-morrow morning. He made the promise probably to appease my + reproaches, for he did not fulfill it. + </p> + <p> + On the second day after my arrival, I dipped my feet and slippers into the + Nile, and bequeathing the village of Seboo my most hearty curse, (which + God fulfill!) embarked on board a boat on its way from Dongola to Egypt, + and in three days reached Assuan.<a href="#linknote-87" + name="linknoteref-87" id="linknoteref-87"><small>87</small></a> + </p> + <p> + THE END + </p> + <p> + London Printed by C. Roworth Bell Yard, Temple Bar + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_FOOT" id="link2H_FOOT"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + FOOTNOTES: + </h2> + <p> + <a name="linknote-1" id="linknote-1"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 1 (<a href="#linknoteref-1">return</a>)<br /> [ For instance, a navigable + passage has been cut through the rocks of the First Cataract, and a canal + is at present constructing, by order of the Pasha, round some of the most + difficult passes of the Second. He has completed a broad and deep canal + from the Nile to Alexandria, by which commerce is liberated from the risk + attending the passage of the Boghaz of Rosetta. Large establishments for + the fabric of saltpeter, gunpowder, cannon and small arms, others for the + fabric of silks, cotton and sugar, have been erected by the Viceroy, and + are in operation under the superintendence of Europeans.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-2" id="linknote-2"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 2 (<a href="#linknoteref-2">return</a>)<br /> [ Their names are as follows:—Succoot, + Machass, Dongola, Shageia, Monasier, Isyout, Rab-a-Tab, Berber, Shendi, + Halfya, the kingdoms of Sennaar, Darfour, and Kordofan; at present, all + subject to the conqueror of Egypt and Arabia.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-3" id="linknote-3"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 3 (<a href="#linknoteref-3">return</a>)<br /> [ Mr. Frediani, an Italian*, + and Messrs. Caillaud and Constant, the latter sent out by His Most + Christian Majesty, have accompanied our camp to Sennaar, where I left them + in good health. To Messrs. Caillaud and Constant, particularly, I am + indebted for much cordiality and friendship, which it is a pleasure to me + to acknowledge. The geographical positions of the most important places on + the Upper Nile have been ascertained by Mr. Constant, who is provided with + an excellent set of instruments, with great care and the most + indefatigable pains, of which I myself have been a witness. His + observations will doubtless be a most valuable acquisition to geography.] + </p> + <p> + * Since dead in Sennaar, This unfortunate man died a chained maniac, in + consequence of violent fever.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-4" id="linknote-4"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 4 (<a href="#linknoteref-4">return</a>)<br /> [ Corresponding to the end of + September, or the former part of October, A.C. 1820.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-5" id="linknote-5"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 5 (<a href="#linknoteref-5">return</a>)<br /> [ This force may be thus + enumerated: ten pieces of field artillery, one mortar 8 inch caliber, and + two small howitzers, attached to which were one hundred and twenty + cannoneers; three hundred Turkish infantry and seven hundred Mogrebin + ditto; the remainder of the army Turkish and Bedouin cavalry, together + with a corps of Abbadies mounted on dromedaries.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-6" id="linknote-6"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 6 (<a href="#linknoteref-6">return</a>)<br /> [ Called the Shellal of + Semne.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-7" id="linknote-7"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 7 (<a href="#linknoteref-7">return</a>)<br /> [ Called the Shellal of + Ambigool.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-8" id="linknote-8"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 8 (<a href="#linknoteref-8">return</a>)<br /> [ Called the Shellal of + Tongaroo.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-9" id="linknote-9"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 9 (<a href="#linknoteref-9">return</a>)<br /> [ Called the Shellal of Dal.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-10" id="linknote-10"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 10 (<a href="#linknoteref-10">return</a>)<br /> [ I have been informed that + about two miles northward of this place, on the west side of the river, is + to be seen a curious vaulted edifice, having the interior of its walls in + many places covered with paintings. My informants believed that it was + anciently a Christian monastery. This is possible, as the ruins of several + are to be seen on the Third Cataract, and, as I have been told, on the + Second also.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-11" id="linknote-11"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 11 (<a href="#linknoteref-11">return</a>)<br /> [ About seventy miles above + Wady Haifa.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-12" id="linknote-12"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 12 (<a href="#linknoteref-12">return</a>)<br /> [ I cannot help smiling in + copying off this part of my journal, at the little account I made of + "bread rice and lentils," at the commencement of the campaign. Before I + left Sennaar, I have been more than once obliged to take a part of my + horse's rations of durra to support nature. He ate his portion raw and I + boiled mine. The causes of such distress were that the natives of the + Upper country would frequently refuse to sell us any thing for our dirty + colored piastres of Egypt, and the Pasha would allow nobody to steal but + himself. "Steal" a fico for the phrase. The wise "convey it call," says + ancient Pistol, an old soldier who had seen hard times in the wars.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-13" id="linknote-13"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 13 (<a href="#linknoteref-13">return</a>)<br /> [ These were the rapids of + Dall.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-14" id="linknote-14"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 14 (<a href="#linknoteref-14">return</a>)<br /> [ In every dangerous pass, + we invariably saw one or more of our boats wrecked.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-15" id="linknote-15"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 15 (<a href="#linknoteref-15">return</a>)<br /> [ It is called Gamatee.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-16" id="linknote-16"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 16 (<a href="#linknoteref-16">return</a>)<br /> [ The middle of the Upper + Nile is generally occupied by an almost continued range of islands.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-17" id="linknote-17"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 17 (<a href="#linknoteref-17">return</a>)<br /> [ I learned afterwards from + Khalil Aga, the American, who accompanied me to Sennaar and back again to + Egypt, and who visited tins spot, that this column made a part of the + ruins of an ancient temple, where are to be seen two colossal statues. I + set out the next day with him to visit this place, but being then only + convalescent from a bloody flux which had reduced my strength, I found + myself too weak to reach the place, and returned to the boat.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-18" id="linknote-18"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 18 (<a href="#linknoteref-18">return</a>)<br /> [ The river continues in + the same general direction as high up as the island of Mograt, on the + Third Cataract, when it resumes a course more south and north. The length + of this bend is probably not less than two hundred and fifty miles.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-19" id="linknote-19"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 19 (<a href="#linknoteref-19">return</a>)<br /> [ i.e. The bank on our + left-hand ascending the river.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-20" id="linknote-20"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 20 (<a href="#linknoteref-20">return</a>)<br /> [ A more particular account + of this battle will be given hereafter, in the course of the narrative.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-21" id="linknote-21"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 21 (<a href="#linknoteref-21">return</a>)<br /> [ These gentlemen were + Messrs. Waddington and Hanbury, who, after staying a short time in our + camp, returned to Egypt. Mr. Waddington, on his return to England, + published an account of his travels on the upper Nile, in which, having + been misled by the tongue of some mischievous enemy of mine, he gave an + account of me not a little fabulous. On my arrival in London, I wrote to + Mr. Waddington what he was pleased to call a "manly and temperate letter," + informing him of his error, representing to him the serious injury it + might do me, and calling upon him for a justification or an apology. Mr. + Waddington, in the manner best becoming an English gentleman, frankly gave + me both, concluding with the following expressions—"I feel the most + sincere and profound sorrow for the unintentional injustice into which I + have been betrayed by too hasty a belief of false information. For this I + am as anxious to make you reparation, as I am incapable of doing any + person a willful injury. I will therefore cause the note in question to be + erased in the following editions of my book; and in the remaining copies + of the present, I will instantly insert a new page or sheet, if necessary; + or should that be impossible, I will immediately destroy the whole + impression." It was impossible for me, after this, to retain any of the + angry feelings excited by this affair, excepting towards "the false + tongue" that occasioned it, on which I cordially imprecate a plentiful + portion of the "sharp arrows of the mighty and coals of juniper."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-22" id="linknote-22"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 22 (<a href="#linknoteref-22">return</a>)<br /> [ The desperate courage of + these wretched peasants was astonishing; they advanced more than once to + the muzzles of the cannon, and wounded some of the cannoneers in the act + of re-loading their guns. Notwithstanding their efforts, such was the + disparity of their arms against cannon and fire-arms, that only one of the + Pasha's soldiers was killed, and they are said to have lost seven hundred + in the battle and during the pursuit.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-23" id="linknote-23"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 23 (<a href="#linknoteref-23">return</a>)<br /> [ I say "shot down," for + the saber was found an unavailing weapon, as these people are so adroit in + the management of their shields that they parried every stroke. I have + seen upon the field where this battle was fought several shields that had + not less than ten or fifteen saber cuts, each lying upon the dead body of + the man who carried it, who had evidently died by three or four balls shot + into him. The soldiers have told me that they had frequently to empty + their carabine and pistols upon one man before he would fall.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-24" id="linknote-24"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 24 (<a href="#linknoteref-24">return</a>)<br /> [ When our troops + approached the castle of Malek Zibarra, his daughter, a girl of about + fifteen, fled in such haste that she dropped one of her sandals, which I + have seen. It was a piece of workmanship as well wrought as any thing of + the kind could be even in Europe. The girl was taken prisoner and brought + to the Pasha, who clothed her magnificently in the Turkish fashion and + sent her to her father, desiring her to tell him to "come and surrender + himself, as he preferred to have brave men for his friends than for his + enemies." When the girl arrived at the camp of Zibarra, the first question + her father asked her was, "My child, in approaching your father, do you + bring your honor with you?" "Yes," replied the girl, "otherwise I should + not dare to look upon you. The Pasha has treated me as his child, has + clothed me as you see, and desires that you would leave war to make peace + with him." Zibarra was greatly affected, and did make several efforts to + effect a peace with the Pasha, which were traversed and frustrated by the + other chiefs of the Shageias.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-25" id="linknote-25"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 25 (<a href="#linknoteref-25">return</a>)<br /> [ Khalil Aga, who has + passed the whole of the third Cataract, found in several of the islands + there ruins which were probably those of monasteries, as he found there + many of the stones covered with Greek inscriptions, one of which he + brought to me; I was obliged to abandon it on the route, on the dying of + the camel that carried it.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-26" id="linknote-26"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 26 (<a href="#linknoteref-26">return</a>)<br /> [ On my return to Egypt, I + presented Mr. Salt with several specimens, which are now in his + possession.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-27" id="linknote-27"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 27 (<a href="#linknoteref-27">return</a>)<br /> [ To which all the troops + had been concentrated.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-28" id="linknote-28"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 28 (<a href="#linknoteref-28">return</a>)<br /> [ It has been found, + however, possible to pass the whole of the third cataract, in boats not + drawing more than three feet of water, by the aid of all the male + population on its shores, who, by the aid of ropes, dragged up nine boats, + which arrived in Berber before the Pasha commenced his march for Sennaar. + They were fifty-seven days in getting from the island of Kendi to Berber. + Every one of them was repeatedly damaged in getting through the passages.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-29" id="linknote-29"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 29 (<a href="#linknoteref-29">return</a>)<br /> [ I have been informed + that, previous to the advance of the Pasha Ismael from Wady Halfa, + deputies from the chiefs of Shageia arrived in the camp to demand of the + Pasha, "for what reason he menaced them with war?" The Pasha replied, + "because you are robbers, who live by disturbing and pillaging all the + countries around your own." They replied, "that they had no other means to + live." The Pasha answered, "cultivate your land, and live honestly." They + replied with great naivete, "we have been bred up to live and prosper by + what you call robbery; we will not work, and cannot change our manner of + living," The Pasha replied, "I will make you change it."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-30" id="linknote-30"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 30 (<a href="#linknoteref-30">return</a>)<br /> [ The number of the old + Mamalukes of Egypt was reduced, at the time of our arrival in Berber, to + less than one hundred persons. They had, however, some hundreds of blacks, + whom they had trained up in their discipline.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-31" id="linknote-31"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 31 (<a href="#linknoteref-31">return</a>)<br /> [ I am happy to add that + these relics of the renowned cavalry of Egypt are now residing there in + ease and in honor; the promises of the Pasha Ismael having been fulfilled + by his father to the letter.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-32" id="linknote-32"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 32 (<a href="#linknoteref-32">return</a>)<br /> [ It is a singular + circumstance, that the chiefs of Dongola, Shageia, Berber, Shendi, and + Halfya; should bear the same title as used in the Hebrew bible, to + designate the petty sovereigns of Canaan.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-33" id="linknote-33"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 33 (<a href="#linknoteref-33">return</a>)<br /> [ The Shageia cavalry, + however, wore these cloths cut and made into long shirts, in order, + probably, to have the freer management of their lances, shields, and broad + swords. It should also be stated, that the Maleks or chiefs of the Upper + Nile, were generally habited in fine blue or white shirts, brought from + Egypt.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-34" id="linknote-34"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 34 (<a href="#linknoteref-34">return</a>)<br /> [ The same circumstance of + dress is common also among the peasants of both sexes of Dongola, Shageia, + and along the third cataract, with this addition, that they not only + anoint the head, but also the whole body with butter, they say it protects + them from the heat; that employed by the personages of consideration is + perfumed. Every Malek has a servant charged with the particular care of a + box of this ointment. On our march to Sennaar, whither we were accompanied + by the Malek of Shendy, I could wind this servant of his a mile off.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-35" id="linknote-35"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 35 (<a href="#linknoteref-35">return</a>)<br /> [ I never in my life saw + such noble and beautiful specimens of the species as were these two + horses; they were stallions, eighteen hands high, beautifully formed, of + high courage and superb gait. When mounted, they tossed their flowing + manes aloft higher than the heads of their turbaned riders, and a man + might place his two fists in their expanded nostrils; they were worthy to + have carried Ali and Khaled to "the war of God."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-36" id="linknote-36"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 36 (<a href="#linknoteref-36">return</a>)<br /> [ I feel myself, however, + bound in conscience to tell the whole truth of this affair. In + perambulating about the town, in the course of the day, which was very + hot, I got affected by a coup de soleil, which gave me a violent fever and + head-ache. I have strong suspicions that this circumstance acted as a + powerful "preventer stay" to my virtue, and enabled me to put the devil to + flight on this trying occasion. The mother of these damsels appeared to be + edified by the discourse I made to her upon the subject of her proposal, + but the young women plainly told me, that I was "rajil batal," i.e. a man + good for nothing. If they could have understood Latin, I should have told + them, + </p> + <p> + "Quodcunque ostendes mihi sic-k Invalidus odi."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-37" id="linknote-37"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 37 (<a href="#linknoteref-37">return</a>)<br /> [ The ordinary price of a + virgin wife in Berber, is a horse, which the bridegroom is obliged to + present to the father of the girl he demands in marriage. I remember + asking a young peasant, of whom I bought some provisions one day in + Berber, "why he did not marry?" He pointed to a colt in the yard, and told + me that "when the colt became big enough, he should take a wife."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-38" id="linknote-38"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 38 (<a href="#linknoteref-38">return</a>)<br /> [ This learned soldier + somewhat surprised me, on my demanding "why he did not give the title of + Caliph to the Padischah?" by answering that there had been no Caliph since + Ali, and that the Padischah was only "Emir el Moumenim," i.e. "commander + of the true believers."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-39" id="linknote-39"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 39 (<a href="#linknoteref-39">return</a>)<br /> [ This word is Hebrew, and + signifies "a lamb."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-40" id="linknote-40"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 40 (<a href="#linknoteref-40">return</a>)<br /> [ Abdin Cacheff is a very + brave and respectable man, of about fifty years of age. He treated me with + great politeness and consideration. He distinguished himself greatly at + the battle near Courty, fighting Ills way into the mass of the enemy and + out again, twice or thrice on that day.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-41" id="linknote-41"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 41 (<a href="#linknoteref-41">return</a>)<br /> [ In order to save the + artillery horses for the exigencies of battle, the cannon were drawn by + camels from the third cataract to Sennaar, and the horses were led + harnessed by their respective guns, ready to be clapped on if necessary. I + venture to recommend the same procedure in all marches of artillery in the + east.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-42" id="linknote-42"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 42 (<a href="#linknoteref-42">return</a>)<br /> [ The other side of the + river, at least as often and as far as we could see it, presented the same + appearance. The only mountains we saw on the other side of the river, were + those of "Attar Baal," at the foot of which (they lie near the river, + about three days march north of Shendi) are, as I have learned, to be seen + the ruins of a city, temples, and fifty-four pyramids. This, I am inclined + to believe, was the site of the famous Meroe, the capital of the island of + that name. The territory in which these ruins are found is in fact nearly + surrounded by rivers, being bounded on the west by the Nile, on the south + by the rivers Ratt and Dander, and on the north by the Bahar el Uswood. + All these three rivers empty into the Nile.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-43" id="linknote-43"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 43 (<a href="#linknoteref-43">return</a>)<br /> [ The butter of the + countries on the Upper Nile is liquid, like that of Egypt. That, however, + which they use to anoint themselves is of the color and consistence of + European butter. We used the latter in preference, in our cookery.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-44" id="linknote-44"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 44 (<a href="#linknoteref-44">return</a>)<br /> [ It includes a great part + of the ancient Isle of Meroe.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-45" id="linknote-45"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 45 (<a href="#linknoteref-45">return</a>)<br /> [ Malek Shouus, on learning + that the Malek of Shendi had made his peace with the Pasha, threatened to + attack him. On this it is said the Malek of Shendi called out twenty + thousand men to line the easterly bank of the Nile, to prevent the + approach of Shouus. Shouus, however, had the whole country of Shendi on + the western side entirely under his control before our arrival, he and his + cavalry devouring their provisions and drinking their bouza at a most + unmerciful rate. On our approach, he went up opposite Halfya, where the + country, on the western shore, is desert. He demanded of the chief of + Halfya, to supply him with provisions: on his refusal, Shouus, in the + night, swam the river with his cavalry, fell upon the town of Halfya by + surprise, and ransacked it from end to end, and then repassed the river + before the chief of Halfya could collect a force to take his revenge. The + cavalry of Shouus, in the course of the campaign, have swam over the Nile + five times: both horse and man are trained to do this thing, inimitable, I + believe, by any other cavalry in the world. Shouus, since his joining us, + has rendered very important services to the Pasha, as he is thoroughly + acquainted with the strength, resources, and riches of all the tribes of + the Nile, from the second Cataract to Sennaar and Darfour: his horses' + feet are familiar with the sod and sand of all these countries, which he + and his freebooters have repeatedly traversed. On our march from Berber to + Shendi, I ran some risk of falling into his hands, as Shouus was + continually prowling about in our neighborhood, from the time of our + quitting Berber. Two nights before we reached Shendi, I stopped on the + route, at a village, to take some refreshment, letting the army go by me. + About an hour and a half after, I mounted my horse to follow the troops, + but, owing to the state of my eyes, I missed my way, after wandering + back-wards and forwards to find the track of the troops, about two hours + after midnight, I descried the rockets always thrown aloft during our + night marches, to direct all stragglers to the place where the Pasha had + encamped. I put my horse to his speed, and arrived there a little before + dawn.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-46" id="linknote-46"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 46 (<a href="#linknoteref-46">return</a>)<br /> [ During the night of the + 22d, I received an order from the Pasha to precede the march of the + troops, and pick out a spot near Halfya to encamp his army on, in the + European manner. Mr. Caillaud was requested to accompany me in this duty. + Mr. Caillaud candidly told me that he was not a military man, and left the + affair entirely to me. I chose a fine position on the river, about two + miles above Halfya, in the rear of which was plenty of grass for the + horses and camels. The Pasha, however, did not choose to come so far, but + pitched his camp on the low sand flats before Halfya, near which there was + no grass for the camels, who, during the five days following, perished in + great numbers. He had undoubtedly his reasons for this, among which not + the least important was, to be near enough to Halfya to have the town + within reach of his cannon, as the Malek of Halfya had not as yet + submitted. The Pasha, however, had like to have had serious cause to + repent of having taken this position, when the river rose, and threatened + to inundate his camp. Luckily it did not reach the ammunition, otherwise + we should probably have been left without the means of defending + ourselves. + </p> + <p> + This overflowing of the Nile was occasioned by the rise of the Bahar el + Abiud, which, this year at least, commenced its annual augmentation nearly + a month sooner than the Nile.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-47" id="linknote-47"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 47 (<a href="#linknoteref-47">return</a>)<br /> [ The troops of Shouus and + the Abbadies swam their horses and dromedaries over the river. Cogia + Achmet, one of the chiefs of the army, in endeavoring to imitate the + cavalry of Shageia, lost seventy horses and some soldiers. The rest of the + horses and camels of the army were taken over by arranging them by the + sides of the boats, with their halters held in hand by the people in the + boats. Another large portion of our horses and camels was taken over by + the Shageias and the Abbadies, who fastened at the breast of each horse, + and over the neck of each camel of ours, so carried over, an empty + water-skin blown up with air, which prevented the animal from sinking, + while their guides swam by their sides, and so conducted them over.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-48" id="linknote-48"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 48 (<a href="#linknoteref-48">return</a>)<br /> [ The same day that the + camp marched from the Bahar el Abiud, Mr. Caillaud and Mr. Frediani + embarked in the boats to go to Sennaar, by the river, in order to have an + opportunity of visiting the ruins of "Soba," which lie on the east side of + the Nile, not far above from its junction with the Bahar el Abiud. When + these gentlemen rejoined us at Sennaar, they informed me that almost the + very ruins of this city have perished; they found, however, there some + fragments of a temple, and of some granite, statues of lions: the city + itself, they said, had been built of brick. This city of "Soba" probably + takes its name from "Saba," the son of Cush, who first colonized this + country, which is called, in the Hebrew Bible, "the land of Cush and + Saba."—See Gen. x. 7. See the references in a Concordance to the + Hebrew Bible, under the heads of "Cush," and "Saba." + </p> + <p> + If there were any pyramids near Saba, I should believe it to be the + ancient Meroe, because Josephus represents that the ancient name of Meroe + was "Saba." "Nam Saba urbs eadem fuisse perhibetur quae a Cambyse Meroe in + uxoris honorem dicta est:" quoted from Eichom's ed. of Sim. Heb. Lex. + artic. Sameh Bet Alef + </p> + <p> + It was impossible for me to ask of the Pasha liberty to accompany the + gentlemen abovementioned, as a battle was expected in a few days between + us and the king of Sennaar, from which I would not have been absent on any + consideration.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-49" id="linknote-49"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 49 (<a href="#linknoteref-49">return</a>)<br /> [ The people of Dongola, + Shageia, Berber, Shendi, and Sennaar, do not use mills to make meal. They + reduce grain to meal by rubbing it a handful at a time between two stones—one + fixed in the ground, and one held by the hands. By long and tedious + friction, the grain is reduced to powder. This labor is performed by the + women, as is almost all the drudgery of the people of the Upper Nile.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-50" id="linknote-50"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 50 (<a href="#linknoteref-50">return</a>)<br /> [ On my return from + Sennaar, I descended by the river as far as Berber. On the way I did see + some few water-wheels, which, however, were employed merely to water the + patches of ground devoted to raising vegetables.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-51" id="linknote-51"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 51 (<a href="#linknoteref-51">return</a>)<br /> [ The Pasha had invited the + Malek of Shendi and the Malek of Halfya to accompany him to Sennaar. The + Malek of Halfya excused himself on account of his age and infirmities, but + sent his eldest son along with the Pasha. By this stroke of policy the + Pasha made the tranquility of the powerful provinces of Shendi and Halfya + certain; and the advance of his army without risk from an insurrection in + his rear; as the people of those provinces would hardly dare to make any + hostile movement while the chief of one province and the heir of the Malek + of the other were in our camp. Nymmer, the Malek of Shendi, is a grave and + venerable man of about 65 years of age, very dignified in his deportment, + and highly respectable for his morals. The Malek of Halfya I have not + seen.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-52" id="linknote-52"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 52 (<a href="#linknoteref-52">return</a>)<br /> [ The present Sultan of + Sennaar is a young man of about 26 years of age; he is black, his mother + having been a Egress. He was taken out of prison, where he had been + confined for eighteen years by his predecessor, who was massacred by the + party who placed him upon the throne. This revolution had taken place not + very long before our march to Sennaar. His name is Bady.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-53" id="linknote-53"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 53 (<a href="#linknoteref-53">return</a>)<br /> [ The natives told me that + this palace had been built eighteen years ago, by the late good Sultan + that they had had, who had planted before it rows of trees, which had been + destroyed when the palace was ruined, as I understood them, in the wars + between the different competitors for the throne during the last eighteen + years.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-54" id="linknote-54"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 54 (<a href="#linknoteref-54">return</a>)<br /> [ The river Nile lost its + transparency four days before the army reached Sennaar. The day that + presents the river troubled, marks the commencement of its augmentation. + The day before we observed this change in the Nile, its waters were very + clear and transparent. The day after, they were brown with mud.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-55" id="linknote-55"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 55 (<a href="#linknoteref-55">return</a>)<br /> [ Sennaar has three + market-places. On our arrival we found them deserted, but on assurances + from the Pasha that all sellers should receive a fair price for their + commodities, the principal one in a few days began to be filled. The + articles I saw there during my stay in Sennaar, were as follows: Meat of + camels, kine, sheep, and goats; a few cat-fish from the river, plenty of a + vegetable called meholakea; some limes, a few melons, cucumbers, dried + barmea, a vegetable common in Egypt; beans, durra, duchan, tobacco of the + country, plenty of gum arable, with which, by the way, Sennaar abounds, + (the natives use it in their cookery;) drugs and spices brought from + Gidda, among which I observed ginger, pepper, and cloves; and great + quantities of dried odoriferous herbs found in Sennaar, with which the + natives season their dishes; to which must be added, aplenty of the long + cotton cloths used for dress in Sennaar. Such were the articles offered + for sale by the people of the country. In addition to which, the suttlers + of our army offered for sale, tobacco, coffee, rice, sugar, shirts, + drawers, shoes, gun flints, &c. &c. all at a price three or four + times greater than they could be bought for at Cairo. In some parts of the + market-place the Turks established coffee-houses, and the Greeks who + accompanied the army, cook-shops. These places became the resort of every + body who wanted to buy something to eat, or to hear the news of the day. + There might be seen soldiers in their shirts and drawers, hawking about + their breeches for sale in order to be able to buy a joint of meat to + relish their rations of durra withal, and cursing bitterly their luck in + that they had not received any pay for eight months; while the solemn Turk + of rank perambulated the area, involved, like pious Eneas at Carthage, in + a veil of clouds exhaling from a long amber headed pipe. All around you + you might hear much hard swearing in favor of the most palpable lies; the + seller in favor of his goods, and the buyer in favor of his Egyptian + piasters. In one place a crowd collects around somebody or other lying on + the ground without his head on, on account of some misdemeanor; a little + farther on, thirty or forty soldiers are engaged in driving, with repeated + strokes of heavy mallets, sharp pointed pieces of timber, six or eight + inches square, up the posteriors of some luckless insurgents who had had + the audacity to endeavor to defend their country and their liberty; the + women of the country meantime standing at a distance, and exclaiming, + "that it was scandalous to make men die in so indecent a manner, and + protesting that such a death was only fit for a Christian," (a character + they hold in great abhorrence, probably from never having seen one). Such + was the singular scene presented to the view by the market-place of + Sennaar.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-56" id="linknote-56"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 56 (<a href="#linknoteref-56">return</a>)<br /> [ The occasion of this + expedition was as follows:—On our arrival at Sennaar, and after the + accord made between the Pasha and the Sultan of Sennaar, by which the + latter surrendered his kingdom to the disposal of the Vizier of the Grand + Seignor, the Pasha sent circulars throughout all the districts of the + kingdom notifying the chiefs of this act, and summoning them to come in to + him and render their homage. The Chief of the Mountaineers, inhabiting the + mountains south and south-west of Sennaar (the capital), not only refused + to acknowledge the Pasha, but even to receive his letter. On this, the + Pasha sent Cogia Achmet, one of the roughest of his chiefs, with thirteen + hundred cavalry, escorting three, brazen-faced lawyers, out of the ten the + Pasha had brought with him in order to talk with the people of the upper + country, to bring this man and his followers to reason.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-57" id="linknote-57"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 57 (<a href="#linknoteref-57">return</a>)<br /> [ Several of the chiefs of + Eastern Sennaar had refused to recognize the act of the Sultan, calling + him "a coward" and "a traitor," for surrendering their country to a + stranger. Some of them took up arms, which occasioned the expedition + commanded by the Divan Effendi.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-58" id="linknote-58"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 58 (<a href="#linknoteref-58">return</a>)<br /> [ I must confess that I was + much shocked and disgusted by this act on the part of the Pasha, + especially as he had shown so many traits of humanity in the lower + country, which was undoubtedly one of the principal causes of its prompt + submission. This execution was excused in the camp, by saying, that it + would strike such terror as would repress all attempts at insurrection, + and would consequently prevent the effusion of much blood. It may have + been consistent with the principles of military policy, but I feel an + insurmountable reluctance to believe it.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-59" id="linknote-59"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 59 (<a href="#linknoteref-59">return</a>)<br /> [ They told me the names of + these rivers, which I put down upon a sheet of paper devoted to preserving + the names of some of the principal Maleks of the country. In my journey + back this paper has disappeared from among my notes and papers, which has + been a subject of great vexation to me.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-60" id="linknote-60"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 60 (<a href="#linknoteref-60">return</a>)<br /> [ The people of Sennaar + also believed that our boats could not pass the third cataract; and, + therefore, their opinion with regard to the shellal at Sulluk is not to be + relied on.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-61" id="linknote-61"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 61 (<a href="#linknoteref-61">return</a>)<br /> [ The rainy season in + Sennaar, at least the commencement of it, such as I found it, may be thus + described: Furious squalls of wind in the course of one or two hours, + coming from all points of the compass, bringing and heaping together black + clouds charged with electric matter; for twelve or fifteen hours an almost + continual roar of thunder, and, at intervals, torrents of rain; after + which, the sky would be clear for two, three, or four days at a time.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-62" id="linknote-62"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 62 (<a href="#linknoteref-62">return</a>)<br /> [ It is nevertheless + possible that this fly may be found in that part of the kingdom of Sennaar + which lies on the other side of the Adit.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-63" id="linknote-63"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 63 (<a href="#linknoteref-63">return</a>)<br /> [ It was in the house where + I quartered, at Sennaar, that I saw this singular animal. I jogged Khalil + Aga, my countryman and companion, to look at it. He burst cut into an + exclamation, "by God, that snake has got legs." He jumped up and seized a + stick in order to kill and keep it as a curiosity, but it dodged his blow, + and darted away among the baggage, which was overhauled without finding + it, as it had undoubtedly escaped into some hole in the clay wall of the + house. Mr. Constant, the gentleman, who accompanies Mr. Caillaud, was + present at the time, so that I am convinced that what I saw was not an + ocular delusion. I have been informed, since my return to Egypt, that the + figure of this animal is to be seen sculptured upon the ancient monuments + of Egypt.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-64" id="linknote-64"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 64 (<a href="#linknoteref-64">return</a>)<br /> [ The people of Sennaar + catch, cook and eat, without scruple, cats, rats and mice; and those who + are rich enough to buy a wild hog, fatten it up and make a feast of it. I + had heard in the lower country that the people of Sennaar made no scruple + to eat swine's flesh, but I absolutely refused to believe that a people + calling themselves Mussulmans could do this from choice. But after my + arrival in Sennaar I was obliged to own that I had been mistaken. The + species of hog found in the kingdom of Sennaar is small and black; it is + not found in that part of the kingdom called "El Gezira," i.e. the island, + but is caught in the woody mountains of the country near Abyssinia. In the + house of one Malek in Sennaar was found about a dozen of these animals + fattening for his table.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-65" id="linknote-65"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 65 (<a href="#linknoteref-65">return</a>)<br /> [ The mountains of Bokki + border upon the kingdom of Fezoueli, which lies south of Sennaar twenty + days march. The mountains of Fezoueli are supposed to contain gold mines; + pieces of gold are frequently found in the torrents that flow from those + mountains in the rainy season. A native of that country told the Pasha + Ismael, that he had seen a piece of gold, found in those mountains, as big + as the bottom part of the silver narguil of his Excellence, i.e. about six + inches in diameter. That there is gold in that country, is certain, as the + female prisoners, taken at Bokki, had many gold rings and bracelets, of + which they were quickly disencumbered by our soldiers. The Pasha intends + to visit Fezoueli after the rainy season is over, to find the veins from + whence this gold is washed down by the torrents, and, in case of success, + to work the mines.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-66" id="linknote-66"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 66 (<a href="#linknoteref-66">return</a>)<br /> [ We passed Attar Baal the + same night. The reader is aware that a boat carrying a courier, could not + be detained to give a passenger an opportunity to see ruins.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-67" id="linknote-67"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 67 (<a href="#linknoteref-67">return</a>)<br /> [ The "Adit," or Nile of + Bruce, enters the Bahar el Abiud nearly at right angles, but such is the + mass of the latter river, that the Nile cannot mingle its waters with + those of the Bahar el Abiud for many miles below their junction. The + waters of the Adit are almost black during the season of its augmentation; + those of the Bahar el Abiud, on the contrary, are white: so that for + several miles below their junction, the eastern part of the river is + black, and the western is white. This white color of the Bahar el Abiud is + occasioned by a very fine white clay with which its waters are + impregnated. At the point of junction between the Bahar el Abiud and the + Adit, the Bahar el Abiud is almost barred across by an island and a reef + of rocks; this barrier checks its current, otherwise it would probably + almost arrest the current of the Adit. It is, nevertheless, sufficiently + strong to prevent the Adit from mingling with it immediately, although the + current of the Adit is very strong, and enters the Bahar el Abiud nearly + at right angles.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-68" id="linknote-68"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 68 (<a href="#linknoteref-68">return</a>)<br /> [ Since my return to Egypt, + we have learned that this army, after some bloody battles, had succeeded + in taking possession of Darfour and Kordofan.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-69" id="linknote-69"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 69 (<a href="#linknoteref-69">return</a>)<br /> [ The provinces lying on + the third Cataract, between Shageia and Berber, are called, 1st, Monasier; + 2d, Isyout, 3d, El Raba Tab.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-70" id="linknote-70"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 70 (<a href="#linknoteref-70">return</a>)<br /> [ He came up in one of the + nine boats that were able to pass, as mentioned before.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-71" id="linknote-71"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 71 (<a href="#linknoteref-71">return</a>)<br /> [ As the people of these + countries dislike the piasters of Egypt, I bought a quantity of soap at + Sennaar from the Greeks who accompanied the army as sutlers, in order to + serve as a medium of exchange; for in most of the provinces on the Upper + Nile, they prefer soap to any thing you can offer, except dollars, or the + gold coin of Constantinople.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-72" id="linknote-72"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 72 (<a href="#linknoteref-72">return</a>)<br /> [ Khalil Aga, a native of + New York, took the turban a few weeks before the departure of Ismael Pasha + from Cairo. Learning that I was to accompany his Excellence, he requested + me to obtain of the Pasha that he might be attached to me during the + expedition. He is probably the first individual that ever traversed the + whole of the river Nile from Rosetti to Sennaar. I have done the same, + except about two hundred miles of the third cataract.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-73" id="linknote-73"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 73 (<a href="#linknoteref-73">return</a>)<br /> [ This I suppose to be the + point where terminates the singular bend in the river noticed in the + former part of my journal.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-74" id="linknote-74"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 74 (<a href="#linknoteref-74">return</a>)<br /> [ The wind, during the day, + was constantly from the north, which was the general direction of our + march from the time we quitted the river till we reached it again, so that + we had the breezes always in our faces. The air of the desert is so very + dry that no part of my body was moistened by perspiration except the top + of my head, which was sheltered from the influence of the sun and air by + the folds of my turban. I did not feel incommoded by heat in the desert + when out of the sun's rays, but on arriving at Assuan I found it almost + intolerable.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-75" id="linknote-75"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 75 (<a href="#linknoteref-75">return</a>)<br /> [ The names of the wells in + the desert of Omgourann, between Berber and Seboo, are as follows:—1st, + Apseach. 2d, Morat. 3d, El Medina. 4th, Amrashee, 5th, Mogareen. In the + two latter, water is only found after heavy rains.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-76" id="linknote-76"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 76 (<a href="#linknoteref-76">return</a>)<br /> [ Close by this rock was + the skull of some wretched man who had perished on this spot. All along + our route we saw hundreds of skeletons of camels. The skull that we saw + probably belonged to one of two Mogrebin soldiers who deserted at Berber, + in order to return to. Egypt, and who both perished with thirst in the + desert.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-77" id="linknote-77"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 77 (<a href="#linknoteref-77">return</a>)<br /> [ Our guide, an Abadie, + would not permit the camels of our caravan to be watered at the well of + Apseach, saying, that if he did, all the water then in the well would be + consumed, and the consequence would be, that the nest traveler that came + might perish with thirst.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-78" id="linknote-78"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 78 (<a href="#linknoteref-78">return</a>)<br /> [ The ground near the well + of Morat is full of scorpion holes. On my arrival at midnight I spread my + carpet on the ground and slept soundly. In the morning when it was taken + up, we found under it a scorpion, I am sure four inches in length, its + color green and yellow. I was told that they abound near all the wells of + the desert, and I have seen very many at different places on the borders + of the river.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-79" id="linknote-79"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 79 (<a href="#linknoteref-79">return</a>)<br /> [ Which we found to be the + case till we came within fifteen hours march of the Nile.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-80" id="linknote-80"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 80 (<a href="#linknoteref-80">return</a>)<br /> [ Out of the twenty-two + camels that we had commenced our march with from Berber, only twelve + reached the river.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-81" id="linknote-81"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 81 (<a href="#linknoteref-81">return</a>)<br /> [ This was occasioned by + the heat of the sun and the dryness of the air of the desert, which made + nearly two fifths of our water to evaporate.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-82" id="linknote-82"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 82 (<a href="#linknoteref-82">return</a>)<br /> [ Before we entered the + desert our caravan had been joined by several runaway domestics, who had + fled from the army to return to Egypt.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-83" id="linknote-83"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 83 (<a href="#linknoteref-83">return</a>)<br /> [ The soldier of the + Cadilaskier before mentioned, who was the conductor, i.e. the chief of the + caravan, had recourse to a singular expedient to rouse one of them whom + the whip could not stir. He seized his purse of money, which this man + carried in his bosom, swearing that if he chose to stop and die there he + might, and that he would be his heir and inherit his purse. This + testamentary disposition on the part of the soldier had a wonderful + effect. The man got up from the sand and walked forward very briskly, + calling upon the soldier to restore the purse, as he was determined not to + lie down any more till he reached the river. The soldier, however, + observing the effect of his proceeding, retained the purse till we arrived + at the river, when he restored it.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-84" id="linknote-84"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 84 (<a href="#linknoteref-84">return</a>)<br /> [ The last time I saw him + was when I gave him part of the last bowl; he kissed my slipper, shedding + abundance of tears, and saying that I was the only one of the caravan that + had shown him mercy. I bade him keep up a good heart, for that on the + morrow morning, by the blessing of God, we should be at the river.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-85" id="linknote-85"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 85 (<a href="#linknoteref-85">return</a>)<br /> [ Directly opposite Seboo, + on the other bank of the river, stands an ancient Egyptian temple. Seboo + is four days march of a camel above Assuan.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-86" id="linknote-86"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 86 (<a href="#linknoteref-86">return</a>)<br /> [ The reason for their + refusal I afterwards learned, was, that they believed that the lad was + already dead, and that therefore they should miss the reward promised.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-87" id="linknote-87"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 87 (<a href="#linknoteref-87">return</a>)<br /> [ Three days after my + arrival at Assuan I had news of the fate of this lad, from a Nubian + voyager of the desert, on his way to Assuan, who had found him, thirty-six + hours after our arrival at Seboo, lying in the ravine leading to the + river, but almost dead. He had stopped, it seems, to sleep a few hours, + believing that sleep would refresh him, and that he could do it without + danger, as the river was not many hours off. On his awaking, he found + himself so weak that it was with great difficulty that he reached the + ravine, where he fell. The traveler gave him water, and placed him on his + dromedary, and brought him to the river, but he was too far gone; he died + in a half an hour after he reached it. The last words he spoke, this man + told me, related to his God, his prophet, and his mother: this traveler + dug his grave and buried him. I told this man that I had offered a reward + at Seboo to whoever would bring this unfortunate young man to the river, + and that I would give the money to him as a recompense for having done all + he could do in such a case. The man, to my astonishment, replied, "that it + was not money that he would take as a reward for what he had done; that he + would receive no reward for it but from the hands of God, who would pay + more for it than I could." I told him that I was happy to have found a + Mussulman mindful of the precepts of the Koran, which inculcate charity + and benevolence to all those who are in distress, and that the record of + such deeds would occupy a great space on the almost blank page of our good + actions.] + </p> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of the Expedition to +Dongola and Sennaar, by George Bethune English + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITION TO DONGOLA AND SENNAAR *** + +***** This file should be named 17592-h.htm or 17592-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/7/5/9/17592/ + +Produced by Charles Klingman; HTML version by David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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