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diff --git a/17694-h/17694-h.htm b/17694-h/17694-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fafec18 --- /dev/null +++ b/17694-h/17694-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,4461 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>Adventures in New Guinea</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4 { + text-align: left; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + color: gray;} + + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h2> +<a href="#startoftext">Adventures in New Guinea, by James Chalmers</a> +</h2> +<pre> +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Adventures in New Guinea, by James Chalmers + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Adventures in New Guinea + + +Author: James Chalmers + + + +Release Date: February 6, 2006 [eBook #17694] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES IN NEW GUINEA*** +</pre> +<p><a name="startoftext"></a></p> +<p>Transcribed from the 1886 Religious Tract Society edition by David +Price, email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk</p> +<p>THE R. T. S. LIBRARY—ILLUSTRATED</p> +<h1>ADVENTURES IN NEW GUINEA<br /> +by<br /> +JAMES CHALMERS<br /> +of port moresby</h1> +<p>WITH SIX ILLUSTRATIONS</p> +<p>THE RELIGIOUS TRACT SOCIETY<br /> +<span class="smcap">56, Paternoster Row; 65, St. Paul’s Churchyard;<br /> +and 164, Piccadilly<br /> +</span>1886.</p> +<p><!-- page 4--><a name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 4</span><span class="smcap">london:<br /> +printed by william clowes and sons, limited,<br /> +stamford street and charing cross</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/titleb.jpg"> +<img alt="Port Moresby" src="images/titles.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><!-- page 7--><a name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 7</span>INTRODUCTION.</h2> +<p>Public attention has been repeatedly and prominently directed to +New Guinea during the last few months. The name often appears +in our newspapers and missionary reports, and bids fair to take a somewhat +prominent place in our blue-books. Yet very few general readers +possess accurate information about the island itself, about the work +of English missionaries there, or about the part New Guinea seems destined +to play in Australian politics. Hence a brief sketch indicating +the present state of knowledge on these points will be a fitting introduction +to the narratives of exploration, of adventure, and of Christian work +contained in this volume.</p> +<p>New Guinea, if we may take Australia as a continent, is the largest +island in the world, being, roughly speaking, about 1400 miles long, +and 490 broad at its widest point. Its northernmost coast nearly +touches the equator, and its southernmost stretches down to 11° +south latitude. Little more than the fringe or coastline of the +island has been at all carefully explored, but it is known to possess +magnificent mountain ranges, vast stretches of beautiful scenery, much +land that is fruitful, even under native cultivation, and mighty rivers +that take their rise far inland. Its savage <!-- page 8--><a name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>inhabitants +have aroused powerfully the interest and sympathy alike of Christian +Polynesians and English missionaries, who, taking their lives in their +hands, have, in not a few instances, laid them down in the effort to +win New Guinea for Christ.</p> +<p>At some remote period of the past, New Guinea, in all probability, +formed a part of Australia. Torres Strait itself is only about +sixty miles wide; the water is shallow; shoals and reefs abound, giving +the sailor who threads the intricate and dangerous navigation the impression +that he is sailing over what was once solid earth.</p> +<p>The first European sailor who sighted the island was D’Abreu, +in 1511; the honour of being first to land belongs most probably to +the Portuguese explorer, Don Jorge De Meneses, in 1526, on his way from +Malacca to the Moluccas.</p> +<p>Into the somewhat intricate history of the connection of the Dutch +with the north-west coast of New Guinea we cannot here enter. +As suzerain nominally under the Sultan of Tidore, they claim possession +of the western part of the island as far east as Lat. 141° 47' E. +The trade they carry on is said to be worth about 20,000<i>l</i>. a +year. Dutch missionaries have for many years been stationed around +the coast of Geelvink Bay.</p> +<p>In 1770, Captain Cook visited the south-west coast, and in 1775, +an English officer, Forrest by name, spent some months on the north-east +coast in search of spices. In 1793, New Guinea was annexed by +two of the East <!-- page 9--><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>India +Company’s commanders, and an island in Geelvink Bay, Manasvari +by name, was for a time held by their troops.</p> +<p>Partial surveys of the south coast were made in 1845 by Captain Blackwood, +who discovered the Fly River; by Lieutenant Yule, in 1846, who journeyed +east as far as the island to which he has given his name; and in 1848 +by Captain Owen Stanley, who made a fairly accurate survey of the south-east +coast.</p> +<p>The most important survey work along the coast of New Guinea was +done in 1873 by H.M. ship <i>Basilisk</i>, under the command of Captain +Moresby. He discovered the now-famous harbour, Port Moresby; he +laid down the true eastern coastline of the island, discovering the +China Straits, and exploring the north-east coast as far west as Huon +Gulf.</p> +<p>In many parts of the world Christian missionaries have been the first +to get on friendly terms with the natives, and thus to pave the way +for developing the resources of a savage country and leading its inhabitants +in the paths of progress and civilization. Pre-eminently has this +been the case in South-eastern New Guinea. White men had landed +before them, it is true; but for the most part only to benefit themselves, +and not unfrequently to murder the natives or to entrap them into slavery. +Christianity has won great victories in Polynesia, but no part of the +globe has witnessed fouler crimes or more atrocious wickedness on the +part of white men towards savage races.</p> +<p><!-- page 10--><a name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 10</span>The +history of the work done by members of the London Missionary Society +is already a long one. As far back as 1871, the Revs. A. W. Murray +and S. McFarlane sailed from Maré, one of the Loyalty Islands, +with eight native teachers, inhabitants of that group, with whom to +begin the campaign against sin, superstition, and savagery in New Guinea. +The first station occupied was Darnley Island, and Mr. Murray gives +an incident that well illustrates the spirit in which these men, themselves +trophies of missionary success, entered upon their work. Speaking +about another island, the natives, in the hope of intimidating the teachers, +said, “There are alligators there, and snakes, and centipedes.” +“Hold,” said the teacher, “are there men there?” +“Oh yes,” was the reply, “there are men; but they +are such dreadful savages that it is no use your thinking of living +among them.” “That will do,” replied the teacher. +“Wherever there are men, missionaries are bound to go.” +Teachers were stationed at the islands of Tauan and Sabaii. Later +on, Yule Island and Redscar Bay were visited, and the missionaries returned +to Lifu.</p> +<p>In 1872, Mr. Murray returned in the <i>John Williams</i> with thirteen +additional teachers, and for the next two years superintended the mission +from Cape York. In 1874, he was joined by the Revs. S. McFarlane +and W. G. Lawes—who have both ever since that time laboured hard +and successfully on behalf of the natives—and the steamer <i>Ellengowan</i> +was placed at the service <!-- page 11--><a name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 11</span>of +the mission by the liberality of the late Miss Baxter, of Dundee. +The native teachers experienced many vicissitudes. Some died from +inability to stand the climate, some were massacred by the men they +were striving to bless; but the gaps were filled up as speedily as possible, +and the map recently issued (Jan. 1885) by the Directors of the Society +shows that on the south-eastern coast of New Guinea, from Motumotu to +East Cape, no less than <i>thirty-two native teachers</i>, some of them +New Guinea converts, are now toiling in the service of the Gospel.</p> +<p>In 1877, the Rev. James Chalmers joined the mission, and it is hardly +too much to say that his arrival formed an epoch in its history. +He is wonderfully equipped for the work to which he has, under God’s +Providence, put his hand, and is the white man best known to all the +natives along the south coast. From the first he has gone among +them unarmed, and though not unfrequently in imminent peril, has been +marvellously preserved. He has combined the qualities of missionary +and explorer in a very high degree, and while beloved as “Tamate” +(Teacher) by the natives, has added enormously to the stock of our geographical +knowledge of New Guinea, and to our accurate acquaintance with the ways +of thinking, the habits, superstitions, and mode of life of the various +tribes of natives.</p> +<p>Notwithstanding various expensive expeditions for the exploration +of New Guinea, he has travelled the farthest yet into the interior. +He has been as far as <!-- page 12--><a name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>Lat. +S. 9° 2' and Long. E. 147° 42½'. The farthest point +reached by Captain Armit was about Lat. S. 9° 35' and Long. E. 147° +38'. Mr. Morrison merely reached a point on the Goldie River, +when he was attacked and wounded by the natives. This compelled +the party to return to Port Moresby.</p> +<p>Mr. Chalmers is still actively engaged in his work on the great island, +and he has placed many of his journals and papers at the disposal of +the Religious Tract Society, in the hope that their publication may +increase the general store of knowledge about New Guinea, and may also +give true ideas about the natives, the kind of Christian work that is +being done in their midst, and the progress in it that is being made.</p> +<p>The prominence which New Guinea has assumed in the public mind lately +is due much more to political than to religious reasons. England +is a Christian nation, and there are numbers who rejoice in New Guinea +as a signal proof of the regenerating power of the Gospel of Christ. +Yet, to the Christian man, it is somewhat humiliating to find how deeply +the press of our country is stirred by the statement that Germany has +annexed the north coast of New Guinea, while it has hardly been touched +by the thrilling story of the introduction of Christianity all along +the south coast. The public mind is much exercised in discussing +whether Her Majesty’s Government should annex the whole rather +than proclaim a protectorate over a part; it hardly cares to remember +the names of those who <!-- page 13--><a name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 13</span>have +died in trying to make known to the fierce Papuans our common brotherhood +in Christ Jesus. One can understand that this is natural; still +it will be an augury of good for the future of the English people, when, +without losing any of their legitimate interest in public affairs, they +care more for the victories won by faith alone, over ignorance, vice, +and barbarism, than for the victories won by the rifle and sword, however +just the cause may be in which these weapons are used.</p> +<p>For years past the idea has been gaining force in the public mind, +both in the colonies and at home, that ultimately England would annex +New Guinea. To any careful student of our history for the last +century, it may appear strange that we have not done so long before. +Our practice in the past has been to annex first, and to find reasons +for it afterwards. To others, the very fact that even now the +extremest step is only to proclaim a protectorate over a part, may appear +to indicate that we are not quite so sure as we have been that annexation +is wholly a blessing either to us or to the land annexed.</p> +<p>As already noted, in 1873, Captain Moresby did good service by accurately +laying down the coastline of Eastern New Guinea. In accomplishing +this, he discovered that there were several beautiful islands that had +hitherto been considered part of the mainland. It is best perhaps +to give what followed in his own words:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The importance of our discoveries led me to <!-- page 14--><a name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 14</span>consider +their bearing on Imperial and Australian interests. There lay +the vast island of New Guinea, dominating the shores of Northern Australia, +separated at one point by only twenty miles of coral reef from British +possessions, commanding the Torres Straits route, commanding the increasing +pearl-shell fisheries, and also the <i>bêche-de-mer</i> fishery. +It was also improved by the richness and beauty, and the number of their +fine vegetable products—fine timber, the cocoanut, the sago palm, +sugar-cane, maize, jute, and various vegetable fibres, fruits and rich +grasses—and my conclusion, after weighing all the considerations +involved, was, that it was my duty to take formal possession of our +discoveries in the name of Her Majesty. Such a course secured +a postponement of occupation by any Power till our Government could +consider its own interests, and whilst the acquisition of these islands +might commend itself, and my act result in annexation on the one hand, +it might be negatived on the other with easy simplicity, by a neglect +to confirm it.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Accordingly, a cocoanut tree was transformed into a flagstaff, the +British flag was run up, and duly saluted with cheers and volleys, and +a picture of the proceeding adorns the captain’s book as frontispiece.</p> +<p>Ever since that time events have tended in the direction of bringing +New Guinea into closer relations with England. On the one hand, +there has been the conviction that if we do not annex it some other +country will, and thus threaten Australia. Then many <!-- page 15--><a name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>Australians +have looked upon New Guinea as a possible paradise for colonists, and +have been eager to establish themselves securely upon its soil. +The attempts in this direction have produced little but disaster to +all concerned.</p> +<p>On the other hand, missionaries feel that there is much to be said +on the same side. Perhaps the opinion of no one man deserves more +weight than that of Mr. Chalmers. We give his views, as he expressed +them before the protectorate was proclaimed.</p> +<p>“This question of the annexation of New Guinea is still creating +a good deal of interest, and although at present the Imperial Government, +through Lord Derby, has given its decision against annexation, yet the +whole matter must, I have no doubt, be reconsidered, and the island +be eventually annexed. It is to be hoped the country is not to +become part of the Australian colonies—a labour land, and a land +where loose money in the hands of a few capitalists is to enter in and +make enormous fortunes, sacrificing the natives and everything else. +If the Imperial Government is afraid of the expense, I think that can +easily be avoided. Annex New Guinea, and save it from another +power, who might harass our Australian colonies; administer it for the +natives, and the whole machinery of government can be maintained by +New Guinea, and allow a large overplus. We have all the experience +of the Dutch in Java; I say, accept and improve.</p> +<p>“It will be said that, as a nation, Britain has never <!-- page 16--><a name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 16</span>tried +to govern commercially, or has not yet made money out of her governing; +and why should she now? She does not want New Guinea. Why +should she go to the expense of governing? Her colonies may be +unsafe with a country of splendid harbours so near in the hands of a +foreign power, and the people of that country need a strong, friendly, +and just power over them, to save them from themselves and from the +white man—whose gods are gold and land, and to whom the black +man is a nuisance to be got rid of as soon as possible. Let Britain +for these reasons annex, and from the day of annexation New Guinea will +pay all her own expenses; the expenses of the first three years to be +paid with compound interest at the end of that period.</p> +<p>“Let us begin by recognizing all native rights, and letting +it be distinctly understood that we govern for the native races, not +the white men, that we are determined to civilize and raise to a higher +level of humanity those whom we govern, that our aim will be to do all +to defend them and save them from extermination by just humanitarian +laws—not the laws of the British nation—but the laws suited +for them. It will not take long for the natives to learn that +not only are we great and powerful, but we are just and merciful, and +we seek their good.</p> +<p>“That established, I would suggest appointing officers in every +district, whose duty it would be to govern through the native chief, +and see that every <!-- page 17--><a name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>native +attended to plantations. A native planting tea, sugar, coffee, +maize, cinchona, etc., to be allowed a bounty, and when returns arrived +to be allowed so much per pound sterling. All these things to +be superintended by the said officer.</p> +<p>“Traders would soon swarm, but no one should be allowed to +trade with natives directly, but only through the Government.</p> +<p>“All unoccupied land to belong to the Government, and to be +leased to those wishing land. No native should be allowed to part +with land, and if desirous to sell, then only to the Government, who +would allow him a reasonable price. Every land transaction to +be made through Government; no land to be sold, only leased.</p> +<p>“The land revenue will be immense, and after paying all expenses, +will leave much for improvements and the education of the people. +Stringent laws passed directly annexation takes place to prevent importation +of arms and spirits will be a true safeguard for the natives.</p> +<p>“As a nation, let Britain, in the zenith of her power and greatness, +think kindly of the native races, and now for once in her history rule +this great island for right and righteousness, in justice and mercy, +and not for self and pelf in unrighteousness, blood, and falsehood. +It is to be hoped that future generations of New Guinea natives will +not rise up to condemn her, as the New Zealanders have done, and to +claim <!-- page 18--><a name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 18</span>their +ancient rights with tears now unheeded. I can see along the vista +of the future, truth and righteousness in Britain’s hands, and +the inhabitants of New Guinea yet unborn blessing her for her rule; +if otherwise, God help the British meanness, for they will rise to pronounce +a curse on her for ever!”</p> +<p>In 1883, the Queensland Government <i>did</i> formally annex their +huge neighbour; but this act was subsequently repudiated by the Home +Government. Towards the end of 1884, it was decided to announce +a formal protectorate over a large portion of the southern shores of +New Guinea.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/19b.jpg"> +<img alt="Boevagi. Chief of Port Moresby" src="images/19s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The official ceremony took place on Nov. 6th, 1884, at Port Moresby. +Five ships of war at once gave dignity to the proceeding by their presence, +and astonished the natives by their salutes. About fifty chiefs +were brought on board the Commodore’s ship, the <i>Nelson</i>, +by the Rev. W. G. Lawes. To Boevagi, the chief of the Port Moresby +tribe, was entrusted the responsibility of upholding the authority and +dignity of England in the island. He was presented with an ebony +stick, into the top of which had been let a florin, with the Queen’s +head uppermost. Mr. Lawes conveyed to Boevagi the meaning of the +Commodore’s words when he gave the stick. “I present +you with this stick, which is to be an emblem of your authority; and +all the tribes who are represented by the chiefs here are to look to +the holder of this stick. Boevagi, this stick represents the Queen +of England, <!-- page 21--><a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>and +if at any time any of the people of these tribes have any grievance +or anything to say, they are, through the holder of this stick, to make +it known to the Queen’s officers, in order that it may be inquired +into.”</p> +<p>The formal protectorate was announced in the following terms:—</p> +<p>“To all to whom these presents shall come, greeting:—Whereas +it has become essential for the lives and properties of the native inhabitants +of New Guinea, and for the purpose of preventing the occupation of portions +of that country by persons whose proceedings, unsanctioned by any lawful +authority, might tend to injustice, strife, and bloodshed, and who, +under the pretence of legitimate trade and intercourse, might endanger +the liberties and possess themselves of the lands of such native inhabitants, +that a British protectorate should be established over a certain portion +of such country and the islands adjacent thereto; and whereas Her Majesty, +having taken into her gracious consideration the urgent necessity of +her protection to such inhabitants, has directed me to proclaim such +protection in a formal manner at this place,—now I, James Elphinstone +Erskine, Captain in the Royal Navy and Commodore of the Australian Station, +one of Her Majesty’s naval aides-de-camp, do hereby, in the name +of Her Most Gracious Majesty, declare and proclaim the establishment +of such protectorate over such portions of the coast and the adjacent +islands as is more particularly <!-- page 22--><a name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>described +in the schedule hereunto annexed; and I hereby proclaim and declare +that no acquisition of land, whensoever or howsoever acquired, within +the limits of the protectorate hereby established will be recognized +by Her Majesty; and I do hereby, on behalf of Her Majesty, command and +enjoin all persons whom it may concern to take notice of this proclamation.</p> +<blockquote><p>“<span class="smcap">Schedule</span>.</p> +<p>“All that portion of the southern shores of New Guinea commencing +from the boundary of that portion of the country claimed by the Government +of the Netherlands on the 141st meridian of east longitude to East Cape, +with all the islands adjacent thereto south of East Cape to Kosmann +Island inclusive, together with the islands in the Goschen Straits.</p> +<p>“Given on board Her Majesty’s ship <i>Nelson</i>, at +the harbour of Port Moresby, on the 6th day of November, 1884.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The die has thus been cast. Already rumours that seem to have +some foundation are in the air that the protectorate is soon to become +annexation. It should be the aim of all to see that, by the force +of public opinion, the last portion of the heathen world that has come +under English protection shall have, as the years pass, many and solid +reasons for thanking God that He has so guided its destinies as to unite +them to our great Empire.</p> +<h2><!-- page 23--><a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 23</span>CHAPTER +I. EARLY EXPERIENCES.</h2> +<p>Somerset—Murray Island—Darnley Island—Boera—Moresby—Trip +inland—Sunday at Port Moresby—Native funeral ceremonies—Tupuselei—Round +Head—Native salutations—Kerepunu—Teste Island—Hoop-iron +as an article of commerce—Two teachers landed—A tabooed +place—Moresby and Basilisk Islands—South Cape—House +building—Difficulties with the natives—An anxious moment—Thefts—Dancing +and cooking—Visit to a native village—Native shot on the +Mayri—Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers in danger—Arrival of the <i>Ellengowan</i>.</p> +<p>Towards the close of 1877, Mr. Chalmers and Mr. McFarlane visited +New Guinea for the purpose of exploring the coast, landing native teachers +at suitable spots, and thus opening the way for future missionary effort. +What follows is given in Mr. Chalmers’s words:—</p> +<p>We left Sydney by the Dutch steamer <i>William M’Kinnon</i>, +on September 20th, 1877, for Somerset. The sail inside the Barrier +Reef is most enjoyable. The numerous islands passed, and the varied +coast scenery make the voyage a very pleasant one—especially <!-- page 24--><a name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>with +such men as our captain and mates. On Sunday, the 30th, we reached +Somerset, where we were met by the <i>Bertha</i>, with Mr. McFarlane +on board of her. Mr. McFarlane was soon on board of the steamer +to welcome us, and remained with us till the evening. There was +very little of the Sabbath observed that day—all was bustle and +confusion. Quite a number of the pearl-shelling boats were at +Somerset awaiting the arrival of the steamer, and the masters of these +boats were soon on and around the steamer receiving their goods.</p> +<p>On Tuesday, October 2nd, we left Somerset in the <i>Bertha</i>, for +Murray Island, anchoring that night off Albany. On Wednesday night, +we anchored off a sandbank, and on Thursday, off a miserable-looking +island, called Village Island. On Friday, we came to York Island, +where we went ashore and saw only four natives—one man and three +boys. At eleven p.m. on Saturday, we anchored at Darnley Island. +This is a fine island, and more suitable for vessels and landing goods +than Murray, but supposed to be not so healthy. The island is +about five hundred feet in height, in some parts thickly wooded, in +others bare. It was here the natives cut off a boat’s crew +about thirty years ago, for which they suffered—the captain landing +with part of his crew, well-armed, killing many and chasing them right +round the island. They never again attempted anything of the kind. +As a native of the island expressed himself on the subject:—<!-- page 25--><a name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 25</span>“White +fellow, he too much make fright, man he all run away, no want see white +fellow gun no more.” In 1871, the first teachers were landed +here.</p> +<p>The Sunday morning was fine, and we resolved to spend a quiet forenoon +on shore. We landed after breakfast, and walked through what must +be in wet weather a deep swamp, to the mission house on the hill. +Gucheng, the Loyalty islander, who is teacher here, looks a good determined +fellow. The people seem to live not far from the mission house, +so did not take long to assemble. There were about eighty at the +service, including a few Australians employed by one of the white men +on the island to fish for trepang. The Darnley islanders appear +a much more interesting people than the Australians. Many of those +present at the service were clothed. They sang very well indeed +such hymns as “Come to Jesus,” “Canaan, bright Canaan,” +which, with some others, have been translated into their language. +Mr. McFarlane addressed them, through the teacher, and the people seemed +to attend to what was said.</p> +<p>Because of a strong head wind, we could not leave the next day, so +Mr. McFarlane and I returned to the shore. We found the children +collected in Gucheng’s house, learning to write the letters on +slates. There were very few girls present—indeed, there +are not many girls on the island, so many have been destroyed by their +fathers at birth. We strolled about and visited the large cocoanut +plantation belonging <!-- page 26--><a name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>to +the society. On our return we found the teacher and a number of +natives collected near the beach. They had just buried a man who +had died the night before—so Christian burial has begun. +Formerly, the body would have been hung up and tapped, to allow the +juices to run out, which would have been drunk by the friends. +We returned to the mission house for dinner. I was glad to find +so many boys living with Gucheng. They were bright, happy little +fellows, romping about, enjoying themselves.</p> +<p>We did not get away from Darnley Island till the morning of Wednesday, +the 10th. The navigation between Darnley and Murray Islands is +difficult, arising from various reefs and currents. Although only +twenty-seven miles separate the two, it was Friday night before we anchored +at Murray Island. We went ashore the same night.</p> +<p>On Saturday, we climbed to the highest point of the island, seven +hundred feet high. There seems to be no lack of food, chiefly +grown inland. From the long drought, the island presented in many +places a parched look, and lacked that luxuriance of vegetation to which +we had been so long accustomed on Rarotonga.</p> +<p>At the forenoon meeting on Sunday there were nearly two hundred present. +Mr. McFarlane preached. A few had a little clothing on them; some +seemed attentive, but the most seemed to consider the occasion a fit +time for relating the week’s news, or of <!-- page 27--><a name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>commenting +on the strangers present. The Sabbath is observed by church attendance +and a cessation from work. There is not much thieving on the island; +they are an indolent people. The school is well attended by old +and young, and Josiah, the teacher, has quite a number of children living +with him. They sing very well.</p> +<p>Several of the old men here wear wigs. It seems when grey hairs +appear they are carefully pulled out; as time moves on they increase +so fast that they would require to shave the head often, so, to cover +their shame, they take to wigs, which represent them as having long, +flowing, curly hair, as in youth. Wigs would not astonish the +Murray islanders, as Mr. Nott’s did the Tahitians after his return +from England. They soon spread the news round the island that +their missionary had had his head newly thatched, and looked a young +man again.</p> +<p>On Monday, the teachers’ goods and mission supplies were put +on board the <i>Bertha</i>. On Tuesday afternoon, after everything +was on board, a farewell service was held with the teachers, and early +on Wednesday morning we left Murray Island for New Guinea. On +Friday, we made New Guinea, off Yule Island, and about sunset on October +21st we anchored about five miles off Boera. Near to the place +where we anchored was a low swampy ground covered with mangrove. +We could see Lealea, where there has been so much sickness. It +presented the same low, <!-- page 28--><a name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>swampy, +unhealthy appearance. Soon after we anchored a canoe came alongside +with Mr. Lawes and Piri on board. Mr. Lawes did not seem so strong +as I remembered him eleven years ago, yet he looked better than I had +expected to see him. He has suffered greatly from the climate. +Piri is a strong, hearty fellow; the climate seems to have had little +effect on him. They remained some time on board, when they went +ashore in the vessel’s boat—Piri taking the teachers and +their wives ashore with him. The wind was ahead, and too strong +for the canoe, so the men who came off in her with Mr. Lawes and Piri +remained on board the <i>Bertha</i> till midnight, when the wind abated. +When the boat was leaving, they shouted to Mr. Lawes to tell us not +to be afraid, as they would not steal anything. They remained +quietly on board till two a.m.</p> +<p>Mr. McFarlane and I went ashore in the morning. The country +looked bare and not at all inviting. This is now the most western +mission station on New Guinea proper. Piri has a very comfortable +house, with a plantation near to it. The chapel, built principally +by himself and wife, is small, but comfortable, and well suited for +the climate. The children meet in it for school. The village +has a very dirty, tumbledown appearance.</p> +<p>The widows of two teachers who died last year shortly after their +arrival in the mission were living with Piri. We took them on +board, with their things, <!-- page 29--><a name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 29</span>to +accompany us to the new mission. I returned ashore with the boat +to fetch away the remainder of the things and teachers who were ashore, +and when ready to return found the vessel too far off to fetch her, +so, after pulling for some time, we up sail and away for Port Moresby. +Piri and his wife came with us in their large canoe. We saw several +dugongs on the way, which some esteem extra good food. Tom, one +of the Loyalty Island teachers, who was in the boat with us, expressed +their edible qualities thus: “You know, sir, pig, he good.” +“Yes, Tom, it is very good.” “Ah, he no good; +dugong, he much good.” It must be good when a native pronounces +it to be better than pork.</p> +<p>We arrived at Port Moresby about six o’clock. I cannot +say I was much charmed with the place, it had such a burnt-up, barren +appearance. Close to the village is a mangrove swamp, and the +whole bay is enclosed with high hills. At the back of the mission +premises, and close to them, is a large swampy place, which in wet weather +is full of water. There can be no doubt about Port Moresby being +a very unhealthy place. We went ashore for breakfast next day, +and in the afternoon visited the school; about forty children were present—an +unusually large number. Many of the children know the alphabet, +and a few can spell words of two or three letters. In walking +through the village in the afternoon we saw the women making their crockery +pots, preparing for the men’s return <!-- page 30--><a name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 30</span>from +the Gulf, the next north-west season, with large quantities of sago. +We visited the graves of the teachers, which are kept in good order. +They are all enclosed by a good fence. Within the same enclosure +is one little grave that will bind New Guinea close to the hearts of +Mr. and Mrs. Lawes. Over them all may be written—“For +Christ’s sake.”</p> +<p>In returning from the graves, we met a man in mourning, whose wife +had been killed in a canoe by natives about Round Head. He and +his friends had resolved to retaliate, but through the influence of +the teachers they did not do so. The teachers from the villages +to the east of Port Moresby came in this afternoon, looking well and +hearty. Some of them have suffered a good deal from fever and +ague, but are now becoming acclimatized. The natives of the various +villages are not now afraid of one another, but accompany their teachers +from place to place. Men, women, and children smoke, and will +do anything for tobacco. The best present you can give them is +tobacco; it is the one thing for which they beg.</p> +<p>As it was decided that the vessel should not leave before Tuesday +of the next week, Mr. McFarlane and I took a trip inland. I was +anxious to see for myself if anything could be done for the natives +living in the mountains. Mr. Goldie, a naturalist, with his party, +was about ten miles inland. He himself had been at Port Moresby +for some days, and, on hearing of our plans, he joined us, and we proceeded +first to his camp. <!-- page 31--><a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>We +left Port Moresby about half-past five on Thursday morning, and crossed +the low ground at the back of the mission house. We ascended the +hill which runs all along the coast in this district at a part about +three hundred feet high, and then descended into a great plain. +At present the plain is dry and hard, from the long drought, and very +little of anything green is to be seen. There are a few small +gum-trees, and great herds of wallabies were jumping about. The +greater part of this plain is under water in the wet seasons. +We walked about ten miles in an east-north-east direction, keeping the +Astrolabe Range to our right, when we came to the camp, close by a large +river—the Laroki. Being afraid of alligators, we preferred +having water poured over us to bathing in the river.</p> +<p>Our party was a tolerably large one—Ruatoka (the Port Moresby +teacher), some Port Moresby natives, and four Loyalty Island teachers, +on their way to East Cape. We did not see a strange native all +the way. We had our hammocks made fast in the bush by the river +side, and rested until three p.m., when we started for another part +of the river about seven miles off, in a south-east direction. +Mr. Goldie also shifted his camp. After sunset we reached the +point where the river was to be crossed, and there we meant to remain +for the night.</p> +<p>We had a bath, then supper, and evening prayers; after which we slung +our hammocks to the trees, in which we rested well. It was a strangely +weird-looking <!-- page 32--><a name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>sight, +and the noises were of a strange kind—wallabies leaping past, +and strange birds overhead. Mr. Goldie’s Maré men +joined with their countrymen, the teachers, in singing some of Sankey’s +hymns in English. Soon sleep came, and all seemed quiet.</p> +<p>At three a.m. of the 26th we struck camp, and after morning prayers +we began to cross the river, which was not over four feet in the deepest +part. It was here Mr. Lawes crossed when he first visited the +inland tribes; so now, led by Ruatoka, we were on his track. The +moon was often hidden by dark clouds, so we had some difficulty in keeping +to the path. We pressed on, as we were anxious to get to a deserted +village which Mr. Goldie knew to breakfast. We reached the village +about six, and after we had partaken of breakfast we set off for the +mountains. When we had gone about four miles the road became more +uneven. Wallabies were not to be seen, and soon we were in a valley +close by the river, which we followed for a long way, and then began +to ascend. We climbed it under a burning sun, Ruatoka calling +out, <i>Tepiake</i>, <i>tepiake</i>, <i>tepiake</i> (Friends, friends, +friends). Armed natives soon appeared on the ridge, shouting, +<i>Misi Lao</i>, <i>Misi Lao</i>. Ruatoka called back, <i>Misi +Lao</i> (Mr. Lawes), and all was right—spears were put away and +they came to meet us, escorting us to a sort of reception-room, where +we all squatted, glad to get in the shade from the sun. We were +now about 1100 feet above the sea level. <!-- page 33--><a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 33</span>We +were surprised to see their houses built on the highest tree-tops they +could find on the top of the ridge. One of the teachers remarked, +“Queer fellows these; not only do they live on the mountain tops, +but they must select the highest trees they can find for their houses.” +We were very soon friends; they seemed at ease, some smoking tobacco, +others chewing betel-nuts. I changed my shirt, and when those +near me saw my white skin they raised a shout that soon brought the +others round. Bartering soon began—taro, sugar-cane, sweet +yams, and water were got in exchange for tobacco, beads, and cloth.</p> +<p>After resting about two hours, we proceeded to the next village, +five miles further along the ridge. Some of our party were too +tired to accompany us; they remained where we expected to camp for the +night. After walking some miles, we came unexpectedly on some +natives. As soon as they saw us they rushed for their spears, +and seemed determined to dispute our way. By a number of signs—touching +our chins with our right hands, etc.—they understood we were not +foes, so they soon became friendly. They had their faces blackened +with soot, plumbago, and gum, and then sprinkled over with white; their +mouths and teeth were in a terrible mess from chewing the betel-nut. +On our leaving them, they shouted on to the next village. An old +man lay outside on the platform of the next house we came to; he looked +terribly frightened as we approached him, but as, instead of <!-- page 34--><a name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>injuring +him, we gave him a present, he soon rallied, and got us water to drink. +By-and-by a few gathered round. We understood them to say the +most of the people were away on the plains hunting for wallabies. +One young woman had a net over her shoulders and covering her breasts, +as a token of mourning—an improvement on their ordinary attire, +which is simply a short grass petticoat—the men <i>nil</i>.</p> +<p>After a short stay, we returned to where we thought of camping for +the night, but for want of water we went on to the village we had visited +in the forenoon. We slung our hammocks in the reception room, +had supper, and turned in for the night. It felt bleak and cold, +and the narrowness of the ridge made us careful, even in our sleep, +lest we should fall out and over. On coming across the highest +peak in the afternoon, we had a magnificent view of Mount Owen Stanley, +with his two peaks rising far away above the other mountains by which +he is surrounded. It must have been about thirty miles off, and, +I should think, impossible to reach from where we were. We were +entirely surrounded by mountains: mountains north, east, south, and +west—above us and below us. I question if it will ever be +a country worth settling in.</p> +<p>We were anxious to spend the Sabbath at Port Moresby, so, leaving +the most of our party, who were too tired to come with us, to rest till +Monday, Mr. McFarlane, Ruatoka, and I set off on our return very <!-- page 35--><a name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 35</span>early +on Saturday morning, and had strangely difficult work in getting down +the mountain side and along the river. Fireflies danced all round +in hundreds, and we awakened many strange birds before their time, which +gave forth a note or two, only to sleep again. Before daylight, +we were at Mr. Goldie’s camp, where we had breakfast, and hurried +on for the river. We rested a short time there, and then away +over plains to Port Moresby, which we reached about midday, tired indeed +and very footsore. Oh, that shoemakers had only to wear the boots +they send to missionaries!</p> +<p>Early on Sunday morning, a great many natives went out with their +spears, nets, and dogs, to hunt wallabies. A goodly number attended +the forenoon service, when Mr. Lawes preached. A good many strangers +were present from an inland village on the Astrolabe side. There +is not yet much observance of the Sabbath. Poi, one of the chief +men of the place, is very friendly: he kept quite a party of his inland +friends from hunting, and brought them to the services. Mr. Lawes +preached again in the afternoon. As we went to church in the afternoon +the hunters were returning: they had evidently had a successful day’s +hunting. During the day a canoe came in from Hula, laden with +old cocoanuts, which were traded for pottery.</p> +<p>In the evening, an old sorceress died, and great was the wailing +over her body. She was buried on the <!-- page 36--><a name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>Monday +morning, just opposite the house in which she had lived. A grave +was dug two feet deep, and spread over with mats, on which the corpse +was laid. Her husband lay on the body, in the grave, for some +time, and, after some talking to the departed spirit, got up, and lay +down by the side of the grave, covered with a mat. About midday, +the grave was covered over with the earth, and friends sat on it weeping. +The relatives of the dead put on mourning by blackening their bodies +all over, and besmearing them with ashes.</p> +<p>On the 31st, the <i>Bertha</i> left for Kerepunu. As I was +anxious to see all the mission stations along the coast between Port +Moresby and Kerepunu, I remained, to accompany Mr. Lawes in the small +schooner <i>Mayri</i>. We left on the following day, and sailed +down the coast inside the reef. We arrived at Tupuselei about +midday. There were two teachers here, and Mr. Lawes having decided +to remove one, we got him on board, and sailed for Kaili. The +villages of Tupuselei and Kaili are quite in the sea. I fear they +are very unhealthy—mangroves and low swampy ground abound. +The Astrolabe Range is not far from the shore we were sailing along +all day. There is a fine bold coast line, with many bays.</p> +<p>In the early morning, our small vessel of only seven tons was crowded +with natives. We left the vessel about nine a.m. for a walk inland, +accompanied by a number of natives, who all went to their houses for +<!-- page 37--><a name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>their +arms before they would leave their village. They have no faith +whatever in one another. We passed through a large swamp covered +with mangroves—then into a dense tropical bush, passing through +an extensive grove of sago palms and good-sized mango trees. The +mangoes were small—about the size of a plum—and very sweet. +At some distance inland I took up a peculiar-looking seed; one of the +natives, thinking I was going to eat it, very earnestly urged me to +throw it away, and with signs gave me to understand that if I ate it +I should swell out to an enormous size, and die.</p> +<p>We walked about seven miles through bush, and then began the ascent +of one of the spurs of the Astrolabe. On nearing the inland village +for which we were bound, the natives became somewhat afraid, and the +leader stopped, and, turning to Mr. Lawes, asked him if he would indeed +not kill any of the people. He was assured all was right, and +then he moved on a few paces, to stop again, and re-inquire if all was +right. When reassured, we all went on, not a word spoken by any +one, and so in silence we entered the village. When we were observed, +spears began rattling in the houses; but our party shouted, <i>Maino</i>, +<i>maino</i> (Peace, peace), <i>Misi Lao</i>, <i>Misi Lao</i>. +The women escaped through the trap-doors in the floors of their houses, +and away down the side of the hill into the bush. We reached the +chief’s house, and there remained.</p> +<p><!-- page 38--><a name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>The +people soon regained confidence, and came round us, wondering greatly +at the first white men they had ever seen in their village. The +women returned from their flight, and began to cook food, which, when +ready, they brought to us, and of which we all heartily partook. +We gave them presents, and they would not suffer us to depart till they +had brought us a return present of uncooked food. They are a fine, +healthy-looking people, lighter than those on the coast. Many +were in deep mourning, and frightfully besmeared. There are a +number of villages close by, on the various ridges. We returned +by a different way, following the bed of what must be in the rainy season +a large river. The banks were in many places from eight to nine +feet high.</p> +<p>On the following morning, November 3rd, we weighed anchor and set +sail, passing Kapakapa, a double village in the sea. The houses +are large and well built. There are numerous villages on the hills +at the back of it, and not too far away to be visited. We anchored +off Round Head, which does not, as represented on the charts, rise boldly +from the sea. There is a plain between two and three miles broad +between the sea and the hill called Round Head. There are many +villages on the hills along this part of the coast. We anchored +close to the shore. A number of natives were on the beach, but +could not be induced to visit us on board. We went ashore to them +after dinner. They knew Mr. Lawes by name <!-- page 39--><a name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span>only, +and became more easy when he assured them that he was really and truly +<i>Misi Lao</i>. They professed friendship by calling out, <i>Maino</i>, +<i>maino</i>, catching hold of their noses, and pointing to their stomachs. +After a little time, two ventured to accompany Mr. Lawes on board, and +received presents. I remained ashore astonishing others by striking +matches, and showing off my arms and chest. The women were so +frightened that they all kept at a respectful distance. These +are the natives from an inland village that killed a Port Moresby native +about the beginning of the year. When those who accompanied Mr. +Lawes on board the <i>Mayri</i> returned to the shore, they were instantly +surrounded by their friends, who seized the presents and made off. +They had received fish, biscuit, and taro. The taro and fish were +smelt all over, and carefully examined before eaten. The biscuit +was wrapped up again in the paper.</p> +<p>On Sunday, the 4th, we were beating down through innumerable reefs, +and at eight p.m. we anchored about three miles from Hula. The +following morning we went up to the village, the <i>Mayri</i> anchoring +close by the houses. The country about here looks fine and green, +a very striking contrast to that around Port Moresby. The further +east we get from Port Moresby, the finer the country looks. The +people are also superior—finer-made men and women, and really +pretty boys and girls—more, altogether, like our eastern South +Sea Islanders. The married women <!-- page 40--><a name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>spoil +their looks by keeping their heads shaved. They seem fond of their +children: men and women nurse them. They were busy preparing their +large canoes to visit Port Moresby, on the return of the Port Moresby +canoes from the west with sago.</p> +<p>About three in the afternoon, an old woman made her appearance at +the door of the mission house, bawling out, “Well, what liars +these Hula people are; some of them were inland this morning, and the +chief asked them if <i>Misi Lao</i> had come, and they said no.” +The chief, who saw the vessel from the hill top where his village is, +thought it strange the vessel should be there without <i>Misi Lao</i>, +so sent this woman to learn the truth. She received a present +for herself and the chief, and went away quite happy.</p> +<p>Next morning, November 6th, we left Hula with a fair wind, and were +anchored close to Kerepunu by nine o’clock. The <i>Bertha</i> +was anchored fully two miles off. Kerepunu is a magnificent place, +and its people are very fine-looking. It is one large town of +seven districts, with fine houses, all arranged in streets, crotons +and other plants growing about, and cockatoos perching in front of nearly +every house. One part of the population plant, another fish, and +the planters buy the fish with their produce. Men, women, and +children are all workers; they go to their plantations in the morning +and return to their homes in the evening, only sick ones remaining at +home; thus accounting for the number of scrofulous people we saw going +<!-- page 41--><a name="page41"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 41</span>about +when we first landed. They have a rule, to which they strictly +adhere all the year round, of working for two days and resting the third.</p> +<p>The <i>Bertha</i> arrived here on Friday evening. Mrs. Chalmers +was at the forenoon service on the Sunday, and found there a large congregation. +The service was held on the platform of one of the largest houses. +Anedered preached, a number sitting on the platform, others in the house, +others on the ground all round, and many at the doors of their own houses, +where they could hear all that was said.</p> +<p>Mr. Lawes decided to remain at Kerepunu to revise for the press a +small book Anedered has been preparing, and to follow us to Teste Island +in the <i>Ellengowan</i>. We left Kerepunu on the morning of November +8th, the <i>Mayri</i> leaving at the same time, to sail down inside +the surf. We went right out to sea, so as to beat down, had fine +weather, and were off Teste Island by the 16th. After dinner we +took the boat, and with the captain went in on the east side of the +island through the reef, to sound and find anchorage.</p> +<p>When we reached the lagoon, a catamaran with three natives on it +came off to us. We asked for Koitan, the chief, which at once +gave them confidence in us, so that they came alongside, one getting +into the boat. He expressed his friendship to us in the usual +way, viz. by touching his nose and stomach, and, being very much excited, +seized hold of Mr. <!-- page 42--><a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 42</span>McFarlane +and rubbed noses with him, doing the same to me. He received a +present of a piece of hoop-iron and some red braid, which greatly pleased +him. We found the water was deep enough over the reef for the +vessel, and good anchorage inside. We went on to the village, +to see about the supply of water.</p> +<p>The people were very friendly, and crowded round us. We were +led up to a platform in front of one of their large houses, and there +seated and regaled with cocoanuts. The natives here are much darker +than are those at Kerepunu; most of them suffer from a very offensive-looking +skin disease, which causes the skin to peel off in scales. In +their conversation with one another I recognized several Polynesian +words. The water is obtained by digging in the sand, and is very +brackish.</p> +<p>We came to anchor next morning, and soon were surrounded with canoes, +and our deck swarmed with natives trading their curios, yams, cocoanuts, +and fish for beads and hoop-iron. Many were swearing friendship, +and exchanging names with us, in hopes of getting hoop-iron. There +is as great a demand for hoop-iron here as for tobacco at Port Moresby. +They told us they disliked fighting, but delighted in the dance, betel-nut, +and sleep. The majority have jet black teeth, which they consider +very beautiful, and all have their noses and ears pierced, with various +sorts of nose and ear rings, chiefly made from shell, <!-- page 43--><a name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>inserted. +A crown piece could easily be put through the lobe of their ears.</p> +<p>We went ashore in the afternoon. There are three villages, +all close to one another. Their houses are built on poles, and +are shaped like a canoe turned bottom upwards, others like one in the +water. They ornament their houses on the outside with cocoanuts +and shells. The nabobs of the place had skulls on the posts of +their houses, which they said belonged to the enemies they had killed +and eaten. One skull was very much fractured; they told us it +was done with a stone axe, and showed us how they used these weapons.</p> +<p>We tried to explain to them that no one was to come to the vessel +the next day, as it was a sacred day. In the early morning, some +canoes came off to trade, but we sent them ashore; a few more followed +about breakfast-time, which were also sent ashore. In the afternoon, +our old friend of the preceding day came off, with his wife and two +sons. He called out that he did not wish to come on board, but +that he had brought some cooked food. We accepted his present, +and he remained with his family in his canoe alongside the vessel for +some time, and then went quietly ashore. We had three services +on board, one in the forenoon in Lifuan, in the afternoon in Rarotongan, +and in the evening in English.</p> +<p>As Teste Island is about twenty miles from the mainland, with a dead +beat to it, I decided to seek <!-- page 44--><a name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>for +a position more accessible to New Guinea, and as I had not a teacher +to spare for this little island, Mr. McFarlane decided to leave two +of the Loyalty Island teachers here. It is fertile, and appears +healthy, is two and a half miles long, and half a mile broad. +A ridge of hills runs right through its centre from east-north-east +to west-south-west. The natives have some fine plantations on +the north side, and on the south and east sides they have yam plantations +to the very tops of the hills. There are plantations and fruit-trees +all round the island.</p> +<p>On Monday, I accompanied Mr. McFarlane when he went ashore to make +arrangements to land his teachers and secure a house for them. +The people seemed pleased that some of our party would remain with them. +Mr. McFarlane at once chose a house on a point of land a good way from +our landing-place, and at the end of the most distant village. +The owner was willing to give up the house until the teachers could +build one for themselves, so it was at once taken and paid for. +We came along to our old friend’s place near the landing, when +we were told that the house taken was a very bad one. In the first +place, the position was unhealthy; in the second, that was the point +where their enemies from Basilaki (Moresby Island) always landed when +they came to fight, and the people could not protect the teachers if +so far off when their foes came. All agreed in this, and a fine +new house which had never been occupied <!-- page 45--><a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>was +offered and taken, the same price being paid for it as for the other +one. This house is close to the landing-place, and in the midst +of the people. The owner of the first house offered to return +the things, but we thought it would not be ruinous to let him keep them, +their English value being about ten shillings.</p> +<p>We passed a tabooed place, or rather would have done so had we not +been forced to take a circuitous path to the bush. None of the +natives spoke as we passed the place, nor till we were clear of it; +they made signs also to us to be silent. A woman had died there +lately, and the friends were still mourning. There had been no +dancing in the settlement since the death, nor would there be any for +some days to come.</p> +<p>I think women are more respected here than they are in some other +heathen lands. They seem to keep fast hold of their own possessions. +A man stole an ornament belonging to his wife, and sold it for hoop-iron +on board the <i>Bertha</i>. When he went ashore he was met on +the beach by his spouse, who had in the meantime missed her trinket; +she assailed him with tongue, stick, and stone, and demanded the hoop-iron.</p> +<p>The teachers were landed in the afternoon, and were well received. +The natives all promised to care for them, and treat them kindly. +There are about two hundred and fifty natives on the island. No +<i>Ellengowan</i> appearing, we determined to leave this on <!-- page 46--><a name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 46</span>Wednesday, +the 21st, and to proceed to Moresby Island. Next morning we left, +but, owing to light winds, we did not anchor in Hoop-Iron Bay, off Moresby +Island, till the morning of the 22nd. The anchorage here is in +an open roadstead. It is a very fine island—the vegetation +from the water’s edge right up to the mountain tops. Plantations +are to be seen all round. The people live in small detached companies, +and are not so pleasant and friendly-looking a people as are the Teste +islanders. This is the great Basilaki, and the natives are apparently +the deadly foes of all the islanders round. Before we anchored, +we were surrounded by catamarans (three small logs lashed together) +and canoes—spears in them all.</p> +<p>Mr. McFarlane decided, as soon as we came to the island, that he +would not land his teachers here; and I did not consider it a suitable +place as a head station for New Guinea. We left Moresby Island +at six a.m. on the 23rd inst., and beat through Fortescue Straits, between +Moresby and Basilisk Islands. The scenery was grand—everything +looked so fresh and green, very different from the deathlike appearance +of Port Moresby and vicinity. The four teachers were close behind +us, in their large whale-boat, with part of their things. On getting +out of the Straits, we saw East Cape; but, as there was no anchorage +there, we made for Killerton Island, about ten miles from the Cape. +The wind being very light, it was eight p.m. before we anchored: the +boat got up an hour after <!-- page 47--><a name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>us. +There was apparently great excitement ashore; lights were moving about +in all directions, but none came to us. In the morning, a catamaran +with two boys ventured alongside of us; they got a present, and went +away shouting. Soon we were surrounded with catamarans and canoes, +with three or four natives in each. They had no spears with them, +nor did they kill a dog on our quarter-deck, as they did on that of +the <i>Basilisk</i>. They appeared quite friendly, and free from +shyness. They brought their curios to barter for beads, red cloth, +and the much-valued hoop-iron. The whole country looked productive +and beautiful. After breakfast, we went ashore, and were led through +swampy ground to see the water. On our return to the shore, we +went in search of a position for the mission settlement, but could not +get one far enough away from the swamp, so we took the boat and sailed +a mile or two nearer the Cape, where we found an excellent position +near a river. Mr. McFarlane obtained a fine new house for the +teachers, in which they are to remain till they get a house built. +We took all the teachers’ goods ashore, which the natives helped +to carry to the house. One man, who considered himself well dressed, +kept near us all day. He had a pair of trousers, minus a leg: +he fastened the body of the trousers round his head, and let the leg +fall gracefully down his back.</p> +<p>On the following morning, two large canoes—twenty <!-- page 48--><a name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 48</span>paddles +in each—came in from somewhere about Milne Bay. They remained +for some time near the shore, getting all the news they could about +us from the shore-folk; then the leader amongst them stood up and caught +his nose, and pointed to his stomach—we doing the same. +The large canoes went ashore, and the chief came off to us in a small +one. We gave him a present, which greatly pleased him. After +breakfast, we went ashore to hold a service with the teachers. +We met under a large tree, near their house. About six hundred +natives were about us, and all round outside of the crowd were men armed +with spears and clubs. Mr. McFarlane preached. When the +first hymn was being sung, a number of women and children got up and +ran into the bush. The service was short; at its close we sat +down and sang hymns, which seemed to amuse them greatly. The painted +and armed men were not at all pleasant-looking fellows.</p> +<p>At two in the morning (Monday), we weighed anchor and returned to +Moresby Island. The wind was very light, and we had to anchor +at the entrance to Fortescue Straits. Next morning, we sailed +through the Straits, and, on coming out on the opposite side, we were +glad to see the <i>Bertha</i> beating about there. By noon we +were on board the <i>Bertha</i>, and off for South Cape, the <i>Mayri</i> +going to Teste Island with a letter, telling the captain of the <i>Ellengowan</i> +to follow us, and also to see if the teachers were all right.</p> +<p><!-- page 49--><a name="page49"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 49</span>By +evening we were well up to South Cape. The captain did not care +to get too near that night, and stood away till morning. About +ten next morning I accompanied the captain in the boat, to sound and +look for anchorage, which we found in twenty-two fathoms, near South-West +Point. By half-past fire that evening we anchored. The excitement +ashore was great, and before the anchor was really down we were surrounded +by canoes. As a people, they are small and puny, and much darker +than the Eastern Polynesians. They were greatly excited over Pi’s +baby, a fine plump little fellow, seven months old, who, beside them, +seemed a white child. Indeed, all they saw greatly astonished +them. Canoes came off to us very early in the morning. About +half-past seven, when we were ready to go ashore, there arose great +consternation amongst the natives. Three large war canoes, with +conch-shells blowing, appeared off the mainland and paddled across the +Mayri Straits. Soon a large war canoe appeared near the vessel. +A great many small canoes from various parts of the mainland were ordered +off by those on whose side we were anchored. They had to leave. +On their departure a great shout was raised by the victorious party, +and in a short time all returned quietly to their bartering. It +seemed that the Stacy Islanders wished to keep all the bartering to +themselves. They did not wish the rest to obtain hoop-iron or +any other foreign wealth. They are at feud with one <!-- page 50--><a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 50</span>party +on the mainland, and I suppose in their late contests have been victorious, +for they told us with great exultation that they had lately killed and +eaten ten of their enemies from the mainland.</p> +<p>About nine, we went ashore near the anchorage. I crossed the +island to the village, but did not feel satisfied as to the position. +One of our guides to the village wore, as an armlet, the jawbone of +a man from the mainland he had killed and eaten; others strutted about +with human bones dangling from their hair, and about their necks. +It is only the village Tepauri on the mainland with which they are unfriendly. +We returned to the boat, and sailed along the coast. On turning +a cape, we came to a pretty village, on a well-wooded point. The +people were friendly, and led us to see the water, of which there is +a good supply. This is the spot for which we have been in search +as a station for beginning work. We can go anywhere from here, +and are surrounded by villages. The mainland is not more than +a gunshot across. God has led us. We made arrangements for +a house for the teachers; then returned to the vessel.</p> +<p>In the afternoon, I landed the teachers, their wives, and part of +their goods—the people helping to carry the stuff to the house. +The house in which the teachers are to reside till our own is finished +is the largest in the place, but they can only get the use of one end +of it—the owner, who considers himself the chief man of the place, +requiring the other end for <!-- page 51--><a name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 51</span>himself +and family. The partition between the two ends is only two feet +high. Skulls, shells, and cocoanuts are hung all about the house; +the skulls are those of the enemies he and his people have eaten. +Inside the house, hung up on the wall, is a very large collection of +human bones, bones of animals and of fish.</p> +<p>I selected a spot for our house on the point of land nearest the +mainland. It is a large sand hill, and well wooded at the back. +We have a good piece of land, with bread-fruit and other fruit trees +on it, which I hope soon to have cleared and planted with food, for +the benefit of the teachers who may be here awaiting their stations, +as well as for the teacher for the place. The frontage is the +Straits, with the mainland right opposite. There is a fine anchorage +close to the house for vessels of any size.</p> +<p>Early next morning there was great excitement ashore. The large +war canoe came off, with drums beating and men dancing. They came +alongside the <i>Bertha</i>, and presented us with a small pig and food. +Then the men came on board and danced. The captain gave them a +return present. Mr. McFarlane and I went ashore immediately after +breakfast, and found that the teachers had been kindly treated. +We gave some natives a few axes, who at once set off to cut wood for +the house, and before we returned to the vessel in the evening two posts +were up. As the <i>Bertha’s</i> time was up, and the season +for the trade winds closing, everything was done to get on with <!-- page 52--><a name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 52</span>the +house. Mr. McFarlane worked well. Two men from the <i>Bertha</i>, +and two from the <i>Mayri</i> joined with the four teachers in the work, +and by Tuesday the framework was nearly up. We landed our things +that day, and immediately after breakfast on Wednesday, December 5th, +we went ashore to reside; and about ten a.m. the <i>Bertha</i> left. +On the Tuesday, Mr. McFarlane and I visited several villages on the +mainland: three in a deep bay, which must be very unhealthy, from the +many swamps and high mountains around. The people appeared friendly, +and got very excited over the presents we gave them.</p> +<p>We got an old foretopsail from the captain, which we rigged up as +a tent, in which the teachers slept, we occupying their quarters. +We enjoyed a good night’s rest. In early morning the house +was surrounded with natives, many of whom were armed. They must +wonder at our staying here: they consider our goods to consist entirely +of hoop-iron, axes, knives, and arrowroot. About eleven a.m. the +war canoes were launched on the opposite side of the water. The +excitement here was then great. I met a lad running with painted +skulls to the war canoe of the village. Soon it was decorated +with skulls, shells, cocoanuts, and streamers, and launched. Those +on the opposite side came out into the deep bay; ours remained stationary +till the afternoon, when about thirty men got into her, and away towards +Farm Bay to trade their hoop-iron for sago.</p> +<p><!-- page 53--><a name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>On +Sunday, we met for our usual public services under a large tree, and +a number of natives attended, who of course could not make out what +was said, as they were conducted in Rarotongan. At our morning +and evening prayers numbers are always about who seem to enjoy the singing. +We see quite a number of strangers every day—some from Brumer +Island, Tissot, Teste, China Straits, Catamaran Bay, Farm Bay, and other +places. Those from Vakavaka—a place over by China Straits—are +lighter and better-looking than those here. The women there do +not seem to tattoo themselves. Here they tattoo themselves all +over their faces and bodies, and make themselves look very ugly. +I have not seen one large man or woman amongst them all.</p> +<p>We had much difficulty in getting a sufficient supply of plaited +cocoanut leaves for the walls and roof of our house. By the 14th, +we had the walls and roof finished, when all our party moved into it. +We had a curtain of unbleached calico put up between the teachers’ +end and ours, and curtains for doors and windows, but were glad to get +into it in that unfinished state: the weather was breaking, and we felt +anxious about the teachers sleeping in the tent when it rained, and +we had no privacy at all where we were, and were tired of squatting +on the ground, for we could not get a chair in our part of the house; +indeed, the flooring was of such a construction that the legs of a chair +or table would have <!-- page 54--><a name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>soon +gone through it. On the 13th, we were busy getting the wood we +had cut for the flooring of our house into the sea to be rafted along; +got ten large pieces into the water by breakfast-time.</p> +<p>After breakfast, Mrs. Chalmers and I were at the new house, with +the captain of the <i>Mayri</i>, when we heard a noise like quarrelling. +On looking out, I saw the natives very excited, and many of them running +with spears and clubs towards the house where Mrs. Chalmers, about five +minutes before, had left the teachers rising from breakfast. I +hastened over, and pushed my way amongst the natives till I got to the +front, when, to my horror, I was right in front of a gun aimed by one +of the <i>Mayri’s</i> crew (who had been helping us with the house) +at a young man brandishing a spear. The aim was perfect: had the +gun been fired—as it would have been had I not arrived in time—the +native would have been shot dead. I pushed the native aside, and +ordered the gun to be put down, and turned to the natives, shouting, +<i>Besi</i>, <i>besi</i>! (Enough, enough!). Some of them returned +their spears and clubs, but others remained threatening. I spoke +to our party against using firearms, and then I caught the youth who +was flourishing his spear, and with difficulty got it from him. +Poor fellow, he cried with rage, yet he did me no harm. I clapped +him, and got him to go away. All day he sat under a tree, which +we had frequently to pass, but he would have nothing to say to us. +It seems a knife <!-- page 55--><a name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 55</span>had +been stolen, and he being the only one about the house when it was missed, +was accused of taking it. One of the teachers was winding line, +and he caught the young fellow by the arm to inquire about the knife. +The lad thought he was going to be tied up with the line; he struggled, +got free, and raised the alarm.</p> +<p>Only the night before I had to warn the teachers against using firearms +to alarm or threaten the natives. An axe was stolen; every place +about was searched for it, and for some time without its being found. +At last, a native found it buried in the sand near where it was last +used. It had evidently been hidden there till a favourable opportunity +should occur of taking it away. During the search, the owner of +the axe (one of the teachers) ran off for his gun, and came rushing +over with it. I ordered him to take it back, and in the evening +told them it was only in New Guinea that guns were used by missionaries. +It was not so in any other mission I knew of, and if we could not live +amongst the natives without arms, we had better remain at home; and +if I saw arms used again by them for anything, except birds, or the +like, I should have the whole of them thrown into the sea.</p> +<p>In the afternoon of the 14th, I went over to the house in which we +had been staying, to stir up the teachers to get the things over more +quickly; Mrs. Chalmers remaining at the new house to look after the +things there, as, without doors or flooring, everything <!-- page 56--><a name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 56</span>was +exposed. I went to the seaside to call to the captain of the <i>Mayri</i> +to send us the boat ashore, when, on looking towards my left, I saw +twenty armed natives hurrying along. Though painted, I recognized +some of them as those who were very friendly on board the <i>Bertha</i>, +and spoke to them; but they hurried past, frowning and saying something +I did not understand. They went straight on to the chief’s +house, and surrounded our party. I passed through, and stood in +front of them. One very ugly-looking customer was brandishing +his spear close by me. It was an anxious moment, and one in which +I am sure many would have used firearms. I called out to the teachers, +“Remain quiet.” Our chief sprung out on to the platform +in front of the house and harangued. He was very excited. +Shortly he called to the teachers, in signs and words, to bring out +their guns and fire. They refused. He then rushed into the +house and seized a gun, and was making off with it, when one of the +teachers caught hold of him. I, seeing the teacher with the chief, +thought something was wrong, and went to them. We quieted him, +and did our best to explain to him that we were no fighters, but men +of peace. The babel all round us was terrible. By-and-by +a request was made to me to give the chief from the other side a present, +and get him away. I said, “No; had he come in peace, and +as a chief, I would have given him a present, but I will not do so now.” +They retired to deliberate, and sent <!-- page 57--><a name="page57"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 57</span>another +request for a present. “No; no presents to men in arms. +If the chief returns to-morrow unarmed, he will get a present.” +It seems they are vexed with our living here instead of with them, because +they find those here are getting what they consider very rich by our +living with them. When quiet was restored, we returned to the +carrying of our things. When we came to the last few things, our +chief objected to their removal until he got a farewell present. +He had been paid for the use of the house before any of us entered it; +but we gave him another present, and so finished the business.</p> +<p>Our large cross-cut saw was stolen during the hubbub. It belonged +to the teachers of East Cape. It had only been lent to us, so +we had to get it back. The next morning the chief from the other +side came to see me. He received a present, and looked particularly +sheepish when I tried to explain to him that we did not like fighting. +All day I took care to show that I was very displeased at the loss of +the saw, and by the evening I was told that it had been taken by those +on the other side; and offers of returning it were made, but I saw I +was expected to buy it from them. I said, “No; I will not +buy what was stolen from me; the saw must be returned, and I will give +an axe to the one who goes for it, and fetches it to me.”</p> +<p>The following day, Sunday, the 15th, we held the usual services under +a large tree near the mission house; a great many strangers present; +the latter were <!-- page 58--><a name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>very +troublesome. On Monday afternoon the saw was returned. The +<i>Mayri</i> left us that day, to visit the teachers at East Cape. +The people are getting quieter. At present they are chiefly interested +in the sawing of the wood for the flooring of the house. They +work willingly for a piece of hoop-iron and a few beads, but cannot +do much continuously. They seem to have no kind of worship, and +their sports are few. The children swing, bathe, and sail small +canoes. The grown-up people have their dance—a very poor +sort of thing. A band of youths, with drums, stand close together, +and in a most monotonous tone sing whilst they beat the drums. +The dancers dance round the men once or twice, and all stop to rest +a bit. I have been twice present when only the women danced. +They bury their dead, and place houses over the graves, which they fence +round, planting crotons, bananas, etc., inside. They do their +cooking inside their houses. It was very hot and uncomfortable +when we were in the native house. The master being a sort of chief, +and having a large household, a great deal of cooking was required. +Three large fires were generally burning in their end of the house for +the greater part of the day. The heat and smoke from these fires +were not nice. Indeed, they generally had one or two burning all +night, to serve for blankets, I suppose.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/59b.jpg"> +<img alt="Natives of South-Eastern New Guinea" src="images/59s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>We went on with our work about the place, getting on well with the +natives and with those from other parts. We became so friendly +with the natives that I <!-- page 61--><a name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>had +hoped to go about with them in their canoes. Several natives from +one of the settlements invited me to visit their place, and said if +I went with them in their canoe they would return me. I went with +them, and was well received by all the people at the settlement, where +I spent some hours. On the 21st of December, the <i>Mayri</i> +returned from East Cape, and reported that all were sick, but that the +people were very friendly and kind to teachers. Anxious to keep +the vessel employed, and to prepare the way for landing teachers, I +resolved to visit a settlement on the mainland at deadly feud with this +people. The people here tried hard to dissuade me from going, +telling me that, as I stayed with them, my head would be cut off. +Seeing me determined to go, they brought skulls, saying, mine would +be like that, to adorn their enemies’ war canoe, or hang outside +the chief’s house. Feeling sure that they did not wish me +to go because they were afraid the hoop-iron, the knives, axes, beads, +and cloth might also be distributed on the other side, I told them I +must go; so they left me to my fate.</p> +<p>I took the teacher with me that I hoped to leave there. We +were received very kindly by the people. They led us inland, to +show us there was water, and when we got back to the seaside they regaled +us with sugar-cane and cocoanuts. They then told us that they +did not live at the village, but at the next, and merely came here for +food. We then got into a canoe, and were paddled up to the other +village, where a great <!-- page 62--><a name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span>crowd +assembled, and where we publicly gave the chiefs our presents. +They danced with delight, and told the teacher not to be long until +he came to reside with them.</p> +<p>On our return we thought our friends seemed disappointed. We +had suffered no harm; however, as I had been unwell for some days, and +felt worse on the day following my trip, they felt comforted, and assured +me it was because of our visiting Tepauri. We had several things +stolen, and amongst other things a camp oven, which we miss much. +Yet these are things which must be borne, and we can hope that some +day their stealing propensities will change. From a very unexpected +source, and in a very unexpected manner, the whole prospects of this +eastern mission seemed all at once to be upset. I do not think +I can do better than extract my journal for the next few days.</p> +<p><i>December</i> 29<i>th</i>.—About twelve o’clock three +lads from the <i>Mayri</i> came ashore to cut firewood. One of +them came to me, saying, “I ’fraid, sir, our captain he +too fast with natives. One big fellow he come on board, and he +sit down below. Captain he tell him get up; he no get up. +Captain he get sword, and he tell him, s’pose he no get up he +cut head off; he get up, go ashore. I fear he no all right.” +They left me and went towards the sawpit. Some men were clearing +at the back of my house, some were putting up a cook-house, and the +teachers were sawing wood. On the cook-house being finished, I +was paying the men, when, on <!-- page 63--><a name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 63</span>hearing +a great noise, I rose up and saw those who were at the sawpit running +away and leaping the fence, and heard firing as if from the vessel. +I rushed into the house with my bag, and then out to see what it was. +I saw natives on board the <i>Mayri</i>, and some in canoes; they were +getting the hawser ashore, and pulling up the anchor, no doubt to take +the vessel. Everywhere natives were appearing, some armed, and +others unarmed. Two of the lads from the vessel, wishing to get +on board, went to their boat, but found the natives would not let it +go. I shouted to the natives detaining it to let it go, which +they did. Had I not been near, they would certainly have been +fired upon by the two lads, who were armed with muskets. Before +the boat got to the vessel I saw natives jump overboard, and soon the +firing became brisker. I rushed along the beach, calling upon +the natives to get into the bush, and to those on board to cease firing. +Firing ceased, and soon I heard great wailing at the chief’s house, +where I was pressed to go. A man was shot through the leg and +arm. On running through the village to the house, to get something +for the wounded man, I was stopped to see a young man bleeding profusely, +shot through the left arm, the bullet entering the chest. I got +some medicine and applied it to both.</p> +<p>When I reached the house, I found Mrs. Chalmers the only calm person +there. Natives were all around armed. When at the chief’s +house with medicine I was told there was still another, and he was on +board. <!-- page 64--><a name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>They +kept shouting “Bocasi, Bocasi,” the name of the man who +was on board in the morning. I found a small canoe all over blood, +and two natives paddled me off. On getting alongside, I saw the +captain sitting on deck, looking very white, and blood all about him. +I asked, “Is there still a man on board?” Answer: +“Yes.” “Is he shot?” “Yes.” +“Dead?” “Yes.” He was dead, and +lying below. I was afraid to remain long on board, and would not +risk landing with the body; nor would it do for the body to be landed +before me, as then I might be prevented from landing at all; so I got +into the canoe, in which one native was sitting. The other was +getting the body to place in the canoe; but I said, “Not in this +one, but a larger one.” So ashore I went, and hastened to +the house. I understood the captain to say that they attempted +to take his life, and this big man, armed with a large sugar-cane knife, +was coming close up, and he shot him dead. The captain’s +foot was frightfully cut. He had a spear-head in his side, and +several other wounds.</p> +<p>The principal people seemed friendly, and kept assuring us that all +was right, we should not be harmed. Great was the wailing when +the body was landed, and arms were up and down pretty frequently. +Canoes began to crowd in from the regions around. A man who has +all along been very friendly and kept close by us advised us strongly +to leave during the night, as, assuredly, when the war canoes from the +<!-- page 65--><a name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 65</span>different +parts came in, we should be murdered. Mrs. Chalmers decidedly +opposed our leaving. God would protect us. The vessel was +too small, and not provisioned, and to leave would be losing our position +as well as endangering Teste and East Cape. We came here for Christ’s +work, and He would protect us.</p> +<p>In the dusk, one of the crew came ashore, saying that the captain +was very ill, and wanted to go off to Murray Island. I could not +go on board, and leave them here. We consented to the vessel’s +leaving, and I gave the lad some medicine for the captain, and asked +him to send on shore all he could spare in the way of beads, etc. +I took all that was necessary, and about half-past seven the vessel +left. We were told we should have to pay something to smooth over +the trouble, which we were quite willing to do. Late at night +we had things ready. We had our evening prayers in Rarotongan, +reading Psalm xlvi., and feeling that God was truly our refuge.</p> +<p>People were early about on the 30th. We gave the things which +were prepared, and they were accepted. The people from the settlement +to which the man belonged who was shot came to attack us, but the people +here ordered them back. Many people came in from islands and mainland. +A number of so-called chiefs tell us no one will injure us, and that +we can go on with our work. We thought it not well to have services +out of doors to-day, so held prayer-meetings in the house.</p> +<p><!-- page 66--><a name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>Great +crowds came in from all round on the 31st, and many war canoes. +The people were extremely impudent, jumping the fence, and taking no +heed of what we said. One of the chief men of the settlement to +which the man who was shot belongs returned from Vaare (Teste Island). +He seemed friendly, and I gave him a present.</p> +<p>I had an invitation to attend a cannibal feast at one of the settlements. +Some said it would consist of two men and a child, others of five and +a child.</p> +<p>The people continued troublesome all day, and seemed to think we +had nothing else to do than attend to their demands.</p> +<p><i>January</i> 1<i>st</i>, 1878.—We were told we might be attacked. +There was a great wailing assembly at the other village. A canoe +from Tanosine, with a great many ugly-looking men, passed, and our friends +here seemed to fear they would attack us. We thought everything +settled, and that we should have no more to pay. The warp belonging +to the <i>Mayri</i> was carried past to-day and offered for sale; but +I would have nothing to do with it. We have tried the meek and +quiet up till now, and they only become more impudent and threatening.</p> +<p>Having tried the peaceful and pleasant, we determined to show the +natives that we were not afraid, and resisted every demand, and insisted +that there should be no more leaping the fence. On demands being +made, I shouted, “No more; wait, and when <!-- page 67--><a name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 67</span>Beritama +fighting canoe comes, then make your demands.” They seemed +afraid, and became less troublesome.</p> +<p>In the afternoon of January 2nd, the parties who have the hawser +brought it to me; but I would have nothing to do with it. I told +them if Pouairo, the settlement of the man who was shot, determines +to attack us, let them come, we, too, can fight. One of the teachers +fired off his gun at some distance from a bread-fruit tree, and the +bullet went clean through a limb of it; it caused great exclamations, +and crowds went to look at it.</p> +<p>The hawser was returned and left outside. We took no notice +of it. The people were much quieter, and no demands were made. +The cannibal feast was held. Some of our friends appeared with +pieces of human flesh dangling from their neck and arms. The child +was spared for a future time, it being considered too small. Amidst +all the troubles Mrs. Chalmers was the only one who kept calm and well.</p> +<p>The <i>Ellengowan</i> arrived on January 20th. The natives +were beginning to think no vessel would come; but when it arrived, they +were frightened, and willing to forget the <i>Mayri</i> affair. +A few days before she arrived some of our friends warned us against +going too far away from the house. After her arrival we were able +to go about among the people again.</p> +<h2><!-- page 68--><a name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 68</span>CHAPTER +II. A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS.</h2> +<p>Start eastwards from Heath Island—Naroopoo—Trading with +Natives—Landing at Roux Island—Interview with the Chief—The +Man with the club—Effect of a gunshot on the natives—Ellengowan +Bay—Narrow Escape—The steam-whistle useful—Attempt +to go inland unsuccessful—Amazons—Women chief instigators +of quarrels—Toulon Island—The real “Amazons’ +Land”—How the report arose—Cloudy Bay—Interview +with the Chief—Sandbank Bay—A hurried time—Dufaure +Island—Attack on Mr. Chalmers by Aroma natives—Defended +by some of the natives—Attack due to evil conduct of white men—Intentions +of the natives—Heathen customs—Pigs—Planting—Trading—Sickness.</p> +<p>The <i>Ellengowan</i> had been thoroughly refitted at Sydney; and +in the spring of 1878, accompanied by my wife, I embarked on a cruise +from east to west along the south coast of New Guinea. The little +steamer was commanded by Captain Dudfield, and manned by an efficient +native crew. Communication was held with some two hundred villages, +one hundred and five were personally visited, and ninety for the first +time by a white man. Several bays, harbours, rivers, and islands +were discovered and named; the country between Meikle and Orangerie +Bays, together with that lying at the back of Kerepunu was explored, +<!-- page 69--><a name="page69"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 69</span>and +the entire coast line from Keppel Point to McFarlane Harbour, traversed +on foot.</p> +<p>In travelling through a new country, it is impossible not to have +many experiences that may interest those at home, although to the traveller +they may seem of little moment. In May, 1878, I began my journeys +on New Guinea, in parts hereto unknown, and amongst tribes supposed +to be hostile. I resolved, come what might, to travel unarmed, +trusting to Him in whose work I was engaged, and feeling that no harm +could come to me while in His care.</p> +<p>On leaving Heath Island, we really began on new and little-known +seas and country, and we first anchored in a bay we called Inverary +Bay. On landing, we were met by a few men, the others coming out +with goods and chattels. We steamed round by the Leocadie, through +what forms a good harbour for small vessels, and over by the sandbanks +in Catamaran Bay. We called at Tanosina, to the east of the Leocadie, +landing with caution, as these people had been rather troublesome on +our first arrival at South Cape, and were very anxious to avenge the +man shot on board the <i>Mayri</i>. They did not receive us heartily, +and seemed inclined to be impudent, so I thought it best, after giving +one or two presents, to get quietly to the boat and away. I may +here say that in after-times these people were very friendly, and helped +us much in our work. We visited all round the bay, returning to +South Cape.</p> +<p><!-- page 70--><a name="page70"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 70</span>After +getting a supply of water and fuel on board, we started again, going +east round Rugged Head to Farm Bay, and well up to the head of the bay, +anchoring opposite to Naroopoo. I landed, and soon had an admiring +crowd round me. I was dressed in white, with black leather boots. +Sitting on a verandah, some, more daring than others, would come up, +touch my shirt and trousers, bite their fingers, and run away. +Again and again this was done by the bold ones, who always eyed my boots. +After consultation, one old woman mustered courage, came up, touched +my trousers, and finally my boots. She was trembling all over, +but horror of horrors, to add to her fear, lifting my foot, I pulled +my boot off; she screamed and ran, some others setting out with her, +and did not stop until quite out of sight.</p> +<p>After visiting several villages, and finding that the bay was thickly +populated, I went on board. The following morning many canoes +came alongside, and on our getting up steam were much afraid. +It was evident they wanted to show us that they had confidence in us, +but it was difficult with the steam up, the snorting and general commotion +on board being so great. We warned them on getting up anchor to +clear off. Why should they? There was no sail, nor were +we going to move. A commotion aft, canoes with crews clearing +away to a very safe distance. One canoe hanging on is pulled under, +a wild shout, a moment’s silence, and then there is a loud roar +of <!-- page 71--><a name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span>laughter, +when they see canoe and paddlers appear astern at some distance. +We rounded One Tree Point and could see no entrance to a bay, just a +few miles beyond, but since explored and named Lawes Bay. Keeping +on, we anchored outside of the Roux Islands, in a fine safe harbour. +Before leaving our friends at South Cape, they were boasting of having +visited some place on the coast, where, on showing their large knives, +the natives all left, they helping themselves to a good many things.</p> +<p>We had some difficulty in getting a canoe to come alongside, and +it was not until we had fastened a piece of red cloth to a stick and +floated it astern, that the first canoe would come near. The natives +approached, picked up the red cloth, and in showing them pieces of hoop-iron, +they gradually came near enough to take hold of a piece, look well at +it, and finally decide to come alongside. Once alongside we were +soon fraternizing, and on seeing this other canoes came off, and trading +for curios began. Asking the captain to keep on trading as long +as possible, I hastened ashore, to see the chief of one of the villages. +As long as trading canoes remain alongside, the parties landing are +perfectly safe; care should be taken to get away as soon as possible +after the canoes leave the vessel.</p> +<p>The tide was far out when our boat touched the beach. A crowd +met us, and in every hand was a club or spear. I went on to the +bow, to spring ashore, <!-- page 72--><a name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 72</span>but +was warned not to land. I told them I had come to see the chief, +had a present for him, and must see him.</p> +<p>“Give us your present, and we will give it to him, but you +must not land.”</p> +<p>“I am Tamate, from Suau, and have come as a friend to visit +your old chief, and I must land.”</p> +<p>An elderly woman came close up to the boat, saying, “You must +not land, but I will take the present, or,” pointing to a young +man close by, “he will take it for his father,” he being +the chief’s son.</p> +<p>“No; I must see the chief for myself; but the son I should +also like to know, and will give him a present too.”</p> +<p>Springing ashore, followed by the mate, a fine, daring fellow, much +accustomed to roughing it on the diggings, and not the least afraid +of natives, I walked up the long beach to the village, to the chief’s +house. The old man was seated on the platform in front of the +house, and did not even deign to rise to receive us. I told him +who I was, and the object of my coming. He heard me through, and +treated the whole as stale news. I placed my present on the platform +in front of him, and waited for some word of satisfaction; but none +escaped the stern old chieftain. Presents of beads were handed +to little children in arms, but indignantly returned. Loud laughing +in the outskirts of crowd and little jostling.</p> +<p>“Gould,” said I to the mate, “I think we had <!-- page 73--><a name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 73</span>better +get away from here; keep eyes all round, and let us make quietly to +the beach.”</p> +<p>To the chief I said, “Friend, I am going; you stay.” +Lifting his eyebrows, he said, “Go.”</p> +<p>We were followed by the crowd, one man with a large round club walking +behind me, and uncomfortably near. Had I that club in my hand, +I should feel a little more comfortable. When on the beach we +saw the canoes had left the vessel, and were hurrying ashore; our boat +was soon afloat, still, we had some distance to go. I must have +that club, or I fear that club will have me. I had a large piece +of hoop-iron, such as is highly prized by the natives, in my satchel; +taking it, I wheeled quickly round, presented it to the savage, whose +eyes were dazzled as with a bar of gold. With my left hand I caught +the club, and before he became conscious of what was done I was heading +the procession, armed as a savage, and a good deal more comfortable. +We got safely away.</p> +<p>From Fyfe Bay we went round to Meikle Bay, where I visited all the +villages, and was well received. Before landing I decided to walk +inland, and see for myself if there was no arm of the sea running up +at the back. The charts showed no such thing, but I felt sure, +from the formation of the land and the manner of clouds hanging over +it, that there must be a lake or some large sheet of water, and that +there must be considerable streams carrying off the water of the Lorne +Range and Cloudy Mountains, as no stream <!-- page 74--><a name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 74</span>of +any size came to the sea on the coast-side. I got the chief of +the village at the head of the bay and a large following to show us +the way. We travelled for some miles through good country, and +at last came out opposite a large sheet of water, stretching well up +towards Cloudy Mountain and away towards the head of Milne Bay. +Seeing the Stirling Range, I was able to take a few positions.</p> +<p>Our mate, who had his fowling-piece with him, saw a very pretty parrot +on a cocoanut tree. He approached until close under—the +natives, about forty in number, standing breathlessly round, and wondering +what was going to happen. Bang! Down dropped the parrot; +a wail, hands to ears, a shout, and we were left alone with the chief, +who happened to be standing close by me. Those natives only ceased +running when they reached their homes.</p> +<p>We visited several villages, and at sundown returned. In the +dark we travelled along the bed of a creek, passing small villages, +whose inhabitants were terribly alarmed, but none more so than our chief. +Poor fellow, he <i>was</i> frightened. How nimbly he ascended +his platform on our arrival at his house, where his two wives were crying, +but now rejoiced to see him in the body. Long ago the escort had +returned with a terrible tale, and they feared whether their husband +could have lived through it all. But he was now considered a veritable +hero, to be sung in song and shouted in dance. Friends gather +round; <!-- page 75--><a name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>he +tells his tale; presents the bird; the wives examine it, then the crowd +of relatives. He afraid! oh dear no! But he looked pale +for a native, and no quantity of hoop-iron would induce him to move +from that platform and the side of those dear wives that night. +Enough for one day, one month, one year, so, “Good-bye, Tamate; +I shall be off in the morning to see you.” Arriving on board +late, we were welcome: they feared we had been spirited away.</p> +<p>The following day we got round to Ellengowan Bay. After visiting +all the villages, I went right up to the head of the bay to see Silo +and its chief. The tide was very low, and after pulling the boat +some distance through mud we left her in charge of the two rowers, the +mate and I going to the village. He had hoop-iron cut in seven-inch +lengths in his pockets. The old chief received us graciously, +and began giving me a long story of what he wished to do in the way +of pigs and food, if I would only stay two days. It was a sickly +looking hole, and not being quite rid of fever, I hoped to get on board +and away in an hour. A large crowd gathered round, all under arms, +very noisy, and certainly not gentle. A slight scuffle took place, +but was soon over. The mate missed some of his hoop-iron, caught +one young man with a piece, and took it from him. The crowd increased. +I told the chief I should prefer his people unarmed, and not so noisy. +He spoke to them, some put down their clubs and spears; but they were +hidden in the bush <!-- page 76--><a name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 76</span>close +by. We bade the chief good-bye, but he expressed a great wish +to see me in the boat. Apparently with great carelessness, we +made towards the beach, attended by a noisy crowd, all arms now picked +up. Remembering the difficulty we had in landing, and knowing +savages preferred killing out of their own villages, hospitality having +ended when friends left the precincts, I determined not to have that +crowd near the boat. I asked the chief to send them back; but +to him they would not listen, and still the noisy crowd followed on. +I shouted to them to return, and not come troubling us, as we were getting +into the boat. No use; on they followed, and the boat they meant +to visit. I stood still, and not feeling particularly cheerful, +I told them to go on, and go off to the vessel—that I should wait +and return to the village. Stamping my foot, as if in a towering +passion, I told the chief, “Go with all your people to the boat; +as for me, I shall return.” It had the desired effect. +The people fled, and the few who remained listened to the old man, and +came no further. We got to the boat and away, glad to escape without +any unpleasantness.</p> +<p>Entering Orangerie Bay, we anchored off the village of Daunai, from +which the whole district takes its name. When here, our Chinese +cook lost his knife, and, spotting the thief, determined to have it; +but our captain prevented him from jumping into one of the canoes, and +so avoided trouble. There were over <!-- page 77--><a name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 77</span>one +hundred canoes round the vessel, and altogether over four hundred men.</p> +<p>We stopped all trading, and frightened the canoes away by blowing +the steam whistle—they were much afraid of it, and kept at a very +respectful distance.</p> +<p>We went up the long sheet of water we saw when we crossed Meikle +Bay, finding it in every way suited to its native name, Paroai, or piggish +water, and quite useless as a harbour for anything larger than an ordinary +boat. I went ashore in one of the canoes, to be landed at Bootu, +and walk across to Milne Bay. Before leaving the vessel I engaged +with the natives to take me right away to the head of the lagoon, and +when I had seen Milne Bay, to return me to the vessel, when they would +be paid for all their trouble. So with our bags and a few eatables, +we started; when about a mile away from the vessel, they headed the +canoe more in towards the right shore, and no amount of talk in calmness +or wrath would get them to do otherwise. We touched at a place +not far from a village we visited overland—some left us, and we +were certainly now too weak to proceed. We ran down to the village, +where we landed with my bag, and away went my native canoe men. +Love or money would not move the villagers, and they were exceedingly +impudent, knowing well that we were quite in their hands. My friend +the mate, who insisted on accompanying me, agreed with me that things +were rather out of the common with us, and that a sharp eye, and <!-- page 78--><a name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>quick +ear, and quick action were of some importance. They at once went +to get their clubs and spears, and begged and insisted on presents; +but they were astonished, I doubt not, to find their begging of little +avail.</p> +<p>“Go to the vessel, if you want presents.”</p> +<p>“Why are you anchored so far off?”</p> +<p>“Can’t get nearer, and only wish you would show me the +way in close to here.”</p> +<p>Pointing to a passage close in shore, I suggested they had better +take us off, and we would try and get her round when the tide rose; +but to this they objected, and instead of becoming more friendly, it +seemed to us they were just going the other way; but that may have been +merely as we thought, looking at them through coloured glasses, suspicion, +and a certain mixture of doubt if ever we should again see the vessel. +A few men came running along the beach. I met them, and hurriedly +asked them to take us off when they would have hoop-iron and beads.</p> +<p>“Yes.”</p> +<p>“Quick! do not let them think! Into the nearest canoe.”</p> +<p>Away in the distance those in the village were shouting and gesticulating.</p> +<p>“Come back! Come back, at once.”</p> +<p>“Oh no, my friends; pull, you must pull!” and while they +are discussing we are paddling. I tell them it would be dangerous +to attempt going back. <!-- page 79--><a name="page79"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 79</span>On +we go, beyond small islands in sight of vessel, and now they give up +speaking of returning. We got off, and I paid the fellows well. +Anxious to get in, we tried in many places at high tide to enter the +shore channel, but all was useless. For several miles we were +sailing deep in mud, unable to work the engine. A canoe came near, +and I told them to inform those ashore that we could not get in.</p> +<p>At Port Glasgow, the people cleared out, bag and baggage, leaving +us in quiet possession. At Port Moresby, I had heard of a woman’s +land, a land where only women—perfect Amazons—lived and +ruled. These ladies were reported to be excellent tillers of the +soil, splendid canoeists in sailing or paddling, and quite able to hold +their own against attacks of the sterner sex, who sometimes tried to +invade their country. At the East End they knew nothing of this +woman’s land, and nowhere east of Hula have I ever heard it spoken +of.</p> +<p>To find so interesting a community was of great moment, and everywhere +we went we inquired, but only to be laughed at by the natives; sometimes +asked by them, “How do they continue to exist?” But +that, too, puzzled us. As no part of the coast from East Cape +to Port Moresby would be left unvisited by us, we were certain to come +across the Amazonian settlement, and when we did, it would be useful +to keep a sharp look-out, as I have noticed that the instigators of +nearly all quarrels are the women. <!-- page 80--><a name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 80</span>I +have seen at South Cape, when the men were inclined to remain quiet, +the women rush out, and, as if filled with devils, incite them. +Just after the attack on the <i>Mayri</i>, and when I was going about +the settlement attending to the wounded, I heard the women call loudly +for vengeance, and, because the men would not at once heed them, throw +their shields on the ground and batter them with stones, then pull their +hair, and tell the men they were only poor weak cowards.</p> +<p>We heard that Mailiukolo (Toulon) canoes with women were more numerous, +and some very large ones with women alone. In the early morning +we were off the island, and soon ready to land. On crossing the +reef we met two canoes, one with men and one with women. We signed +to them to go to the vessel, whilst we pulled up to the large village +on the north side. As the boat touched the fine hard sandy beach, +a man, the only being in sight, ran down and stood in front. I +went forward to spring ashore, but he said I must not. Finding +he knew the Daunai dialect, I said to him, I must land; that I was a +friend, and gave him my name, which he already knew from the east. +I gave him a strip of red cloth and stepped ashore, when he ran away +into the bush. At our first approach I could only see this one +man, but now I saw hundreds of grass petticoats on women standing under +the houses. I could not see the upper parts of their bodies, only +the petticoats <!-- page 81--><a name="page81"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 81</span>and +feet. They were indeed quiet until I advanced nearer, when one +wild scream was given that would try stronger nerves than mine, and +signs to keep away. It required more inquisitiveness than I possessed +to proceed. I retired a few paces, warning the boat’s crew +to keep a good look-out, and especially from the bush end of the village, +where the man ran to. I invited the dusky damsels to come to me, +if they objected to my visiting them; but no, I must return whence I +came; they had seen me, that was enough.</p> +<p>“No, my friends; we must meet, and you will have some presents.”</p> +<p>I held up beads and red cloth, but, strange to say, they seemed to +have no effect on that curious crowd. I never saw so many women +together. How were we to meet? was now the question; to be baulked +by them would never do. I threw on the beach a piece of red cloth +and a few beads; walked away quite carelessly, and apparently not noticing +what was taking place. A girl steals out from the crowd, stops, +turns, eyes fixed on me; advances, stops, crosses her hands, pressing +her breast. Poor thing! not courage enough; so, lightning speed, +back. It is evident the old ladies object to the younger ones +attempting, and they are themselves too frightened. Another young +damsel about nine or ten years old comes out, runs, halts, walks cat-like, +lest the touch of her feet on the sand should waken me from my reverie; +another halt, holds her chest, lest the spirit should take its flight +<!-- page 82--><a name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 82</span>or +the pattering heart jump right out. I fear it was beyond the slight +patter then, and had reached the stentorian thump of serious times. +On; a rush; well done! She picks cloth and beads up.</p> +<p>I have gained my point, and will soon have the crowds—no need +to wait so long to have the baits picked up now, and, after a few more +such temptings, it is done. I am besieged by the noisest crowd +I have ever met, and am truly glad to escape on board the boat. +We went to the vessel, and brought her round to the west side, where +we anchored, and I again landed. Crowds met me on the beach, but +no men. I gave my beads indiscriminately, and soon there was a +quarrel between the old ladies and young ones. The latter were +ordered off, and, because they would not go, I must go. The old +ladies insisted on my getting into the boat, and, being now assisted +by the few men we met in the canoe, I thought it better to comply. +Long after we left the beach we heard those old cracked, crabbed voices +anathematizing the younger members of that community. I suppose +I was the first white mortal to land on that sacred shore, and I must +have been to them a strange object indeed.</p> +<p>I am fully convinced that this is the Woman’s Land, and can +easily account for its being called so by stray canoes from the westward.</p> +<p>After leaving the island, we steamed round to the westward of the +small islands in Amazon Bay, where we intended to spend a quiet Sabbath +after a hard <!-- page 83--><a name="page83"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 83</span>week’s +work, and previous to beginning another. After anchoring, canoes +with men and boys kept crossing from the mainland, and all day Sunday +it was the same. They halted at the islands, and with the next +tide went on to Toulon. Landing on the Saturday evening to shoot +pigeons, we met several natives, and learned that their plantations +were on the mainland, and that they crossed to plant and fight, taking +their boys with them. Afterwards at Aroma, they told me they left +their wives and daughters at home in charge of a few men, whilst the +majority crossed to the main, and stayed away for some time, returning +with food, to spend a few days at home on the island. During their +absence, the women sail about and trade, going as far as Dedele in Cloudy +Bay, being one and the same people. Canoes from the westward might +have called at Toulon when the men were on the mainland fighting and +planting, and seeing only women, would soon report a woman’s land. +Many years ago an Elema canoe was carried away there. They were +kindly treated by the Amazons, but at Dedele on returning, were attacked +and several killed; they naturally reported a woman’s land too.</p> +<p>The following week we visited Dedele in Cloudy Bay, which had been +visited two years previously by Messrs. Lawes and McFarlane. The +village was barricaded with high and thick mangrove sticks, with a narrow +opening to the sea. They objected to my landing, and formed a +crescent in front of the boat. <!-- page 84--><a name="page84"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 84</span>I +sprung ashore and asked for the chief. I held out a piece of hoop-iron, +and a rather short, well-built man, dressed with boar’s tusks +and other ornaments, stepped forward and took my present. He took +me by the hand, and led me to the village, just allowing me to peep +in at the opening. I could see the women rushing out by an opening +at the other side; pigs, dogs, nets, and other valuables were being +carried off; they were rushing off wildly away into the bush. +I was very anxious to get right in, and meant to before I went to the +boat. My beads were all done up in small parcels, so I could throw +them about easily. A poor old woman was sitting under the nearest +house, bewailing her sad lot, with an infant, the mother of which had +very likely gone off to the bush to hide the valuables and to return +for the child, or perhaps she was upstairs packing up. I threw +the poor old dame a packet of beads for herself and another for the +child. Spying another old lady close by on the opposite side, +I threw her one. It had the desired effect; my friend, the chief, +who stood guard at the opening, now conceived the “happy thought” +that something could be made out of me.</p> +<p>“Would you like to walk round and look at the village?”</p> +<p>“Yes, I should.”</p> +<p>“Come, then;” and, giving me his hand, he led me, attended +by an armed crowd, to every house, on the verandahs of which I deposited +a packet of beads. <!-- page 85--><a name="page85"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 85</span>He +was the chief, and was named Gidage. When going round he said—</p> +<p>“You are no longer Tamate, you are Gidage.”</p> +<p>“Right, my friend; you are no longer Gidage, you are Tamate.”</p> +<p>I gave him an extra present, and he gave me a return one, saying, +“Gidage, we are friends; stay, and I, Tamate, will kill you a +pig.”</p> +<p>“No, Tamate. Gidage must go; but hopes to re-return, +and will then eat Tamate’s pig.”</p> +<p>“No, stay now; we are friends, and you must be fed!”</p> +<p>“No, I cannot stay; but when I return, then pig-eating”—not +a very pleasant employment when, other things can be had.</p> +<p>Pigs are very valuable animals here, and much thought of, and only +true friends can be regaled with them. The women nurse the pig. +I have seen a woman suckling a child at one breast and a small pig at +the other; that was at South Cape. I have seen it also at Hula +and Aroma. Proceeding to the beach, we parted, old and well-known +friends.</p> +<p>“Gidage, must you go?”</p> +<p>“Yes; I cannot now stay, Tamate.”</p> +<p>“Go, Gidage; how many moons until you return?”</p> +<p>“Tamate, I cannot say; but hope to return.”</p> +<p>“<i>Kaione</i> (good-bye), Tamate.”</p> +<p>“<i>Kaione</i>, Gidage;” and away he started, leaving +Tamate on the beach, surrounded by an interesting crowd of natives.</p> +<p><!-- page 86--><a name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>It +was near here, a few years after, that a <i>bêche-de-mer</i> party +of seven were murdered; and on the opposite side of the bay two cedar-seekers +were waylaid, and lost their lives. We went into Sandbank Bay, +and I landed at the village of Domara. What a scene it was! +The women rushed into the long grass, and I was led, after a good deal +of talk, up to the village—only to see, at the other end, grass +petticoats disappearing, the wearers hidden by the quantity of stuff +they were carrying. One poor woman, heavily laden with treasures, +had perched above all her child, and away she, too, was flying. +Never had white man landed there before, and who knows what he may be +up to?</p> +<p>The following incident illustrates the shocks a traveller must put +up with in New Guinea.</p> +<p>It was resting-day at a village, far away from the coast, and, spreading +my chart out on the middle of the floor in the small native house in +which we were camping, several sitting round, I was tracing our journey +done, and the probable one to do, when strange drops were falling around, +a few on the chart. They came from a bulky parcel overhead. +Jumping up quickly, I discovered that they were grandmother’s +remains being dried. Our chart was placed on the fire, and the +owner was called lustily, who hurriedly entered and walked away with +the parcel. It was altogether a hurried time, and spoiled our +dinner. Feeling convinced that a suitable locality for the <!-- page 87--><a name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 87</span>settlement +of teachers might be found in the neighbourhood of Orangerie Bay, I +resolved on returning thither, and we anchored at Kuragori, on the east +side of Dufaure Island, on April 25th, 1879. I went ashore, and +found the people delighted to meet me. The chief, Tutuaunei, seems +a fine young fellow. The people are good-looking, clear-skinned, +and very few suffering from skin disease. They were quite at home +with us, and a number accompanied me inland. In strong trade winds, +the vessel could lie under the lee of the mainland opposite. We +got on board, and steamed round to the north side, anchoring off Bonabona.</p> +<p>I went ashore, and was met on the beach by Meaudi, the chief. +He is the chief of four villages, some distance from one another, and +all a good size. I visited all four. They have good houses, +and all looks clean. I saw no mangroves whatever, and no appearance +of swamp. The villages are on the beach, and I believe in good +healthy positions. We walked from Bonabona to Sigokoiro, followed +by a large number of men, women, and children, who were much interested +in my boots, clothes, and hat. The chief lives in Gokora, and +when on the platform in front of his fine large house I gave the present, +and we exchanged names. By adopting his name, it meant I was to +visit all his very special friends, and give them also presents. +I called an old woman sitting by to come to me. Very hesitatingly +she came, and <!-- page 88--><a name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>stretched +forth her arm to receive a present. I asked her to come nearer, +which she did, when assured by the chief it was all right, and I put +her present of beads round her neck. Then all the people shouted, +clapped their hands, and danced with delight. After that, all +the old women were produced. We were well known by report to them, +and so Tamate passed as a great <i>taubada</i> (chief).</p> +<p>Dufaure is a fine island, quite equal to any I have seen in the South +Pacific—plantations on all sides, right up to the mountain tops. +They know nothing of firearms, for, on inquiring if there were birds +on the island, they asked if I had a sling. The people are a much +finer race, and freer than any I have seen further east. The two +races seem to meet here—that from the Kerepunu side, and that +from the east. We are anchored some distance from the shore in +three fathoms, and further out it is shallower. The opposite shore +on mainland looks low and unhealthy.</p> +<p>There are ten villages on the island, five of which we have visited.</p> +<p>After visiting the Keakaro and Aroma districts, our journeyings were +nearly brought to a sudden termination. When we got halfway between +the point next to McFarlane Harbour, and Mailu, where there is a boat +entrance, we saw the boat, and waved to them to approach. They +came near to the surf, but not near enough for us to get on board. +The native of Hula, from Maopa, got on board. The Hula boy <!-- page 89--><a name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 89</span>got +on board early in the day, leaving us to go on alone. I called +out to them to proceed to the boat entrance at Mailu. Great numbers +of natives were with us; we saw, in the distance, numbers more sitting +on the beach, and armed. Some of those following us were armed. +When within two miles of where the boat was to await us, we came upon +a crowd of men and women; the former carried spears, clubs, or pieces +of hard wood, used in opening cocoa nuts; the women had clubs. +Some time before this, I said to the teacher and Loyalty islander, “Keep +a good look-out; I fear there is mischief here.” When we +came upon the last group, I asked for a cocoanut in exchange for beads; +the man was giving it to me, when a young man stepped forward and sent +him back. We hastened our steps, so as to get to the village, +where the strangers from Mailukolo and Kapumari might help us. +The teacher heard them discussing as to the best place for the attack; +and, not knowing that he knew what they said, he heard much that left +no doubt in our minds that murder was meant. I carried a satchel, +which had beads and hoop-iron in it; they tried to get it. I gave +presents of beads; some were indignantly returned. I was in front, +between two men with clubs, who kept telling me I was a bad man. +I held their hands, and kept them so that they could not use their clubs. +The Loyalty islander had a fowling-piece—thinking we might be +away some days, and we might have to shoot our <!-- page 90--><a name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 90</span>dinners. +They tried hard to get him to fire it off, and twice tried to wrest +it from him. They know what guns are, and with reason. They +tried to trip us<span class="smcap">;</span> they jostled us. +On we went.</p> +<p>Two men, when near the village, came close up behind me with large +wooden clubs, which were taken from them by two women, who ran off to +the village. Things looked black, and each of us prayed in silence +to Him who rules over the heathen. Soon a man came rushing along, +seized the club, and took it from the man on my left, and threw it in +the sea. He tried to do the same with the one on my right; but +he was too light a man, and did not succeed. An old woman, when +at the point, came out and asked them what they meant, and followed +us, talking to them all the way, so dividing their thoughts. An +old chief, whom we saw on our way up, came hurriedly along to meet us, +calling out, “Mine is the peace! What have these foreigners +done that you want to kill them?” He closed up to the teacher, +and took him by the hand. Another chief walked close behind me. +They began to talk loudly amongst themselves. Some were finding +fault that we should have been allowed to get near the village, and +others that there was yet time. The boat was anchored some distance +off: we got her nearer; and, when ready to move off to the boat, I opened +my satchel, gave hoop-iron to our friends the chiefs, and threw beads +amongst the crowd. I shouted for Kapumari, <!-- page 91--><a name="page91"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 91</span>and +a sturdy young fellow fought his way through the crowd. I gave +him a piece of hoop-iron, and, with our friendly chiefs, he forced the +crowd back, calling on us to be quick, and follow. So into the +water we got, the chiefs calling, “Go quick; go quick!” +We got on board; our Chinamen got flustered, and very nearly let the +boat drift broadside on the beach; we, with poles and oars, got her +round and off, sails set, and away for Kerepunu. Before changing +clothes, we thanked God our Father for His protection and care over +us. We felt He alone did all; unsettled their thoughts as to who +first, where, and when; and it was He who gave us friends.</p> +<p>Why should they want to kill us? It was surely never for the +small satchel I carried. I believe it was revenge. Some +years ago, a vessel called off Aroma; trading for food was done on board; +thieving went on; food was sold twice; revolvers and rifles were brought +out; the natives were fired on, several were wounded, and very likely +some were killed. Natives on the beach were fired upon, and some +were wounded who were hiding in the bush close by. We land—the +first foreigners to visit them—and on us they will be revenged. +What a pity that the same foreigners who fire on the natives do not +return the following week, and so receive their deserts! The wretches +steer clear of such parts. I have asked the teacher to find out, +if possible, why Aroma wished to kill Tamate and Taria.</p> +<p><!-- page 92--><a name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>When +in the boat, we asked the Hula boy why he left us and took to the boat. +He said he had heard some say we should be killed, and that we would +make a fine feast. He did not tell us, because he had not an opportunity, +and was afraid the people might hear him if he told, and so he would +be killed.</p> +<p>A week later a chief from Maopa came with a Kerepunu chief to see +me. I recognised him as the one who kept back the crowd the other +day at Aroma, and opened the way for me to get into the water, and so +into the boat. He says, from our landing in the morning they had +determined to kill us, but the suitable time did not arrive. When +we arrived at the place where the large canoes from Toulon and Daunai +were lying, it was there arranged by the Aroma people and those from +the canoes that Aroma should kill us and have all they could get, and +those from the canoes should have the bodies to eat. He says they +kept putting it off, until, finally, it was to be done when we were +at the boat, then they would have boat and all; but he and two other +chiefs arrived just in time. He says it was not revenge, and, +turning to the Kerepunu chief, he said, “You know Aroma from of +old, and how all strangers are killed.” I gave him a present, +and told him that I hoped to see him soon.</p> +<p>The inhabitants of the inland villages are probably the aborigines, +who have been driven back to the hills by the robuster race now occupying +their plantations <!-- page 93--><a name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 93</span>on +the coast. Their habits and customs are curious and interesting. +They cook the heads of their slain enemies, to secure clean skulls to +put on sacred places.</p> +<p>They have one great spirit—Palaku Bara, who dwells in the mountains. +They worship him unitedly in one place. Each family has a sacred +place, where they carry offerings to the spirits of deceased ancestors, +whom they terribly fear. Sickness in the family, death, famine, +scarcity of fish, etc.—these terrible spirits are at work and +must be propitiated.</p> +<p>Pigs are never killed but in the one place, and then they are offered +to the spirit. The blood is poured out there, and the carcase +is then carried back to the village, to be divided, cooked, and eaten.</p> +<p>Pigs’ skulls are kept and hung up in the house. Food +for a feast, such as at house-building, is placed near the post where +the skulls hang, and a prayer is said. When the centre-post is +put up, the spirits have wallaby, fish, and bananas presented to them, +and they are besought to keep that house always full of food, and that +it may not fall when the wind is strong. The great spirit causes +food to grow, and to him presentations of food are made.</p> +<p>Spirits, when they leave the body, take a canoe, cross the lagoon, +and depart to the mountains, where they remain in perfect bliss; no +work, and nothing to trouble them, with plenty of betel-nuts. +They dance all night long, and rest all day. When the natives +begin planting, they first take <!-- page 94--><a name="page94"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 94</span>a +bunch of bananas and sugar-cane, and go to the centre of the plantation, +and call over the names of the dead belonging to their family, adding, +“There is your food, your bananas and sugar-cane; let our food +grow well, and let it be plentiful. If it does not grow well and +plentiful, you all will be full of shame, and so shall we.”</p> +<p>When they go on trading expeditions, they present their food to the +spirits at the centre post of the house, and ask the spirits to go before +them and prepare the people, so that the trading may be prosperous.</p> +<p>No great work and no expedition is undertaken without offerings and +prayer.</p> +<p>When sickness is in the family, a pig is brought to the sacred place +of the great spirit, and killed. The carcase is then taken to +the sacred place of the family, and the spirits are asked to accept +it. Sins are confessed, such as bananas that are taken, or cocoanuts, +and none have been presented, and leave not given to eat them. +“There is a pig; accept, and remove the sickness.” +Death follows, and the day of burial arrives. The friends all +stand round the open grave, and the chief’s sister or cousin calls +out in a loud voice, “You have been angry with us for the bananas +we have taken (or cocoanuts, as the case may be), and you have, in your +anger, taken this child. Now let it suffice, and bury your anger.” +The body is then placed in the grave, and covered over with earth.</p> +<h2><!-- page 95--><a name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 95</span>CHAPTER +III. SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE.</h2> +<p>Journey inland from Port Moresby—Evening with a chief—Savage +life—Tree houses—Uakinumu—Inland natives—Native +habits of eating—Mountain scenery—Upland natives—Return +to Uakinumu—Drinking out of a bamboo—Native conversation—Keninumu—Munikahila—Native +spiritists—Habits and influence of these men—Meroka—Kerianumu—Makapili—The +Laroki Falls—Epakari—Return to Port Moresby.</p> +<p>In 1879, I made a long journey inland, in a north-easterly direction +from Port Moresby. I visited many native villages, and explored +the mountainous country along the course of and between the Goldie and +Laroki rivers.</p> +<p>The reader will get some notion of the country, the natives, and +their customs, from the following extracts taken from a journal kept +at that time.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 15<i>th</i>, 1879.—We left Port Moresby at half-past +seven, reaching the Laroki at half-past eleven. We crossed in +shallow water near to where the Goldie joins the Laroki. We had +eighteen carriers, four of them women, who carried more than the men. +After resting awhile at the Laroki we went on about three miles farther +to Moumiri, the first village of the <!-- page 96--><a name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 96</span>Koiari +tribe of Port Moresby. On entering the village we took them by +surprise; the women shouted and the men rushed to their spears. +We called out, <i>Mai</i>, <i>mai</i>, <i>mai</i> (Peace, peace, peace), +and, on recognizing who we were, they came running towards us with both +hands outspread. We met the chief’s wife, and she led us +up the hill, where there are a number of good native houses. It +was shouted on before us that foreigners and Ruatoka had arrived, and +down the hill the youths came rushing, shaking hands, shouting, and +slapping themselves. We were received by the chief under the house, +and there we had to sit for a very long time until his wife returned +from the plantation with sugar-cane. Our carriers chewed large +quantities of sugar-cane, got a few betel-nuts, and then set off on +the return journey. We are now thirteen miles north-east from +Port Moresby, 360 feet above sea-level, the thermometer 84° in shade. +The people are small, women not good-looking, and children ill-shaped. +The Goldie runs at the base of the hill; the natives get water from +it. The houses are very similar to those inland from Kerepunu. +On the door hangs a bunch of nutshells, so that when the door is shut +or opened they make a noise. Should the occupants of the house +be asleep, and their foes come, they would, on the door being opened, +be woke up. Spears and clubs are all handy.</p> +<p>16<i>th</i>.—Ruatoka, Joe (an African), and I started at half-past +ten for Munikahila, where we hope to <!-- page 97--><a name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 97</span>get +carriers, our Moumiri friends objecting to go. The first village +we came to we found deserted, and in one old house the skeleton of a +child. We crossed to another village, and coming suddenly upon +the few who were at home, they were terribly frightened; one woman danced +up and down the village, and shouted to the people in the neighbouring +villages to come at once. We are 1170 feet above sea-level, at +a village called Keninuma. The people soon gathered round, some +with spears, clubs, and shields, others unarmed. Feeling cold +after the climb, I signed to be allowed to go into a house to change +clothing, and was given to understand that a very good place to do it +was on the verandah in front of the house, and before the assembly. +When the chief, Poroko Butoa, arrived, we were assigned a small house; +a man during the evening came rushing along with one piece of sugar-cane +and calling out for a tomahawk. A tomahawk for a piece of sugar-cane +would be throwing money to the winds. We are E.N.E. from Moumiri.</p> +<p>17<i>th</i>.—Rather cold during the night. Five natives +who slept in the house with us kept a fire burning all night. +A child sitting in front of the house has a taro in one hand, a bamboo +pipe in the other; takes a bite of the taro, then a draw from the charged +pipe, and the mixture seems to be thoroughly relished. Feeling +sure we should get carriers here, we took no supplies with us, so are +now eating the <!-- page 98--><a name="page98"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 98</span>best +we can get, doing Banting to perfection. A number of men have +been sitting all day about the house making spears, the jawbone and +tusks of the wild boar being the only implements.</p> +<p>18<i>th</i>.—Thermometer at sunrise 70°. A number +of ugly painted and feathered fellows came in this morning on their +way to the village in the valley. The people here are much darker +than the coast tribes, and their hair is woolly. Joe said on arriving +here, “Hallo, these people same as mine, hair just the same.” +They are scarcely so dark. A few are bright-coloured, but all +have the woolly hair. A goodly number suffer from sores on feet +and other parts of body. Their one want is a tomahawk. The +people seem to live in families. We had a good supper of taro +and cockatoo, the latter rather tough.</p> +<p>19<i>th</i>.—The carriers have not yet arrived. In the +evening a woman shouted and yelled; all rushed to their spears, and +there was great running, snorting, and blowing at some imaginary enemy. +After the chief came in, we lay about the fire for some time; then to +our blankets. I was beginning to nod, when some women in a neighbouring +house began giggling and laughing. Our friend wakened up and began +talking. I told him to sleep; he answered, <i>Kuku mahuta</i>, +(Smoke, then sleep). He had his smoke, and then began reciting. +I remember, as a youth, being told, when I could not sleep, to repeat +a psalm or paraphrase, or count one hundred to myself, and <!-- page 99--><a name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 99</span>I +should soon drop off. This fellow repeated aloud and he must have +been going over the mythologic lore of his family for very many generations, +and yet he did not sleep. At last, a smoke, beginning with a scream +of <i>kuku</i>. Now, surely sleep; but no, he changed to a low +monotonous chant, so grating on the sleepy man’s nervous system +that it would have driven many desperate. At last, in the morning +hours, the notes became indistinct, long pauses were observed, and, +finally, I fell asleep.</p> +<p>The women carry exceedingly heavy loads up these steep hills. +Yesterday one woman had two large kits of taro, and a child of about +two years on the top of all. Ruatoka shot eight blue pigeons and +one bird of paradise to-day: the latter must be eaten with the best +of all sauces—hunger. The natives pick up heads, legs, and +entrails, turn them on the fire and eat them.</p> +<p>20<i>th</i>.—Yesterday evening, about six, the carriers came +in with great shouting, and glad was I to see my lad and companion Maka +then. Great was the joy at the division of salt and tobacco. +Before we came here the women and children slept in the bush at night, +the men in the village. They are at enmity with the natives on +the flat across the ravine, and it seems that sometimes they get a night +visit, and may lose a man. For the last two nights the women have +been in the village, but every sound heard causes a shout. Last +night, when just getting off, they came rushing up to <!-- page 100--><a name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 100</span>our +house, and calling on us to get up with our guns, as their enemies were +coming. “Only fire off one, and it will frighten them away.” +We told them to go and sleep, and not be afraid.</p> +<p>The state of fear of one another in which the savage lives is truly +pitiful; to him every stranger seeks his life, and so does every other +savage. The falling of a dry leaf at night, the tread of a pig, +or the passage of a bird all rouse him, and he trembles with fear.</p> +<p>How they relish salt! The smallest grain is picked carefully +up. Fortunately we have a good deal of that commodity. Never +have I seen salt-eating like this; only children eating sugar corresponds +to it.</p> +<p>Here as in all other parts of New Guinea—it is not the most +powerful man who fights and kills most, but little abominable sneaks, +treacherous in the extreme. Since our arrival here we find the +thermometer from 82° to 84° during the day, and as low as 68°, +more frequently 70°, during the night. By bearings we are +only about twenty miles in straight course from Port Moresby.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/101b.jpg"> +<img alt="Tree houses" src="images/101s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>21<i>st</i>.—The village is built on the ridge, the chief’s +house right on the high end and looking east, our small house close +by on the side of the others, on each side, leaving a pathway in the +centre. At the very end of the ridge is a house on a very high +tree, used as a look-out house and a refuge for women and children in +case of attack. There are quite a number of tree houses in the +various villages on the ridges seen <!-- page 103--><a name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 103</span>from +here. The people are anxious to get Maka, a light-coloured and +very fine-looking native lad, married to one of their girls and settled +down amongst them. I said to our African, “They want Maka +to marry one of their girls.” Joe, I suppose, felt slighted +that he too had not an offer, and he replied, “Well, sir, in Madagascar, +a very big chief was real anxious I marry his daughter; fine-looking +girl; he make me chief, and give me plenty land; far cleaner people +than them be.”</p> +<p>I find the people have the same sign of friendship as in the east +end of New Guinea—nose and stomach pointed to. They speak +of a land, Daui, with which they are friendly, a very long way off. +Daunai, of Orangerie Bay, is called Daui in some places. To their +tree houses they have ladders with long vines on each side to assist +ascent. Our delay here will help us to know the people. +I have just been showing them the likenesses of two young friends, and +the excitement has been great, men, women, and children crowding round, +thumb in mouth, scratching and shaking heads, and leaping and screaming, +coming again and again to have a look.</p> +<p>22<i>nd</i>.—A number of strangers slept, or rather made a +noise all night in houses close by, and amongst them a spiritist, whose +hideous singing and chanting of revelations was enough to drive one +frantic. We tried to quiet him, but it was of no use—silenced +he would not be. A man sitting by us when having morning tea <!-- page 104--><a name="page104"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 104</span>asked +for some of the salt we were using. We told him it was not salt, +but sugar. He insisted it was salt, and we gave him some on his +taro. He began eating, and the look of disgust on his face was +worth seeing; he rose up, went out, spat out what he had in his mouth, +and threw the remainder away.</p> +<p>23<i>rd</i>.—Cannot get the natives to move; they say they +are tired, and will have to rest until to-morrow morning, and they are +also afraid of their enemies. The excitement is great, but what +it all means is difficult for us to say. Noon: all have cleared +out with spears, clubs, and shields, two men having been killed in a +village near, and they have gone to get hold of the murderers if they +can. Dressed in their feathers and fighting gear, with faces streaked, +they do certainly look ugly. After being some time gone, they +returned, saying the enemy, who were from Eikiri, had gone off to the +back mountains.</p> +<p>28<i>th</i>.—Left this morning, and had to carry our things, +no natives accompanying us. When about four miles on, we met natives +who willingly took our bags and accompanied us to Uakinumu. The +travelling was not so bad—a good deal of descending and ascending. +Oriope, the old chief, was delighted to see us. His wives and +children have gone with great burdens of betel-nuts and taro to trade +at the seaside. The old fellow goes with us. We are now +1530 feet above sea-level, east-by-south from last camp—Mount +Owen Stanley due north. Oriope is Mr. Lawes’s great <!-- page 105--><a name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 105</span>friend. +He used to live in Munikahila, but trouble through marrying a wife has +sent him in here. He seems greatly attached to Ruatoka. +He is a terrible talker, long-winded and deafening.</p> +<p>29<i>th</i>.—We had a strange sort of a hut for sleeping-quarters +on the top of a rock. The house, being open all round, felt exceedingly +cold when the fire went down. The people here seem much lighter +than at the other place, and the children have a more pleasant expression. +Basaltic rocks lie scattered about in every direction. We had +our flag flying, and the admiration was great, the natives viewing it +from underneath then from a distance, and in each position noticing +something new. About half-past eleven we left. The old chief +and four carriers went with us. After crossing the head of the +Munikahila Creek we passed through fine thickly-wooded country, that +may yet become a very extensive coffee country. After travelling +for some hours, we camped 1800 feet above sea-level. On the way +the carriers struck and were for going back, but we insisted on their +going on a little further. Strange formation of country all around +here. This ridge seems alone in a large basin, one side of which +is bare perpendicular rock. There is a good quantity of cedar, +but so difficult to get away that it would never pay to work. +We are north-east from Uakinumu.</p> +<p>30<i>th</i>.—We started late, continued our journey along the +ridge, rising gradually to 2250 feet, and then along a fine level country +for some miles, when we began to <!-- page 106--><a name="page106"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 106</span>descend. +Soon our old friend began shouting, and received an answer from a village +a long way off. Close by us was a very steep descent, down which +we went till we came under the shadow of a great rock, where we rested, +and in about an hour up came ten natives unarmed, touched our chins, +and we theirs, then all squatted to smoke. One of them, some time +ago, had been to the coast, and knew Rua; his joy at now seeing him +in here was great. A shot had been fired at a cockatoo before +they heard the shouting, and they were much afraid. When all seemed +satisfied, and the crust of the news broken, I proposed a start, so +up bundles, and away we went. When having gone about two miles, +there was a halt in an open space, and we were given to understand we +must camp there. I could not agree to it, “We must go on +to the village.” “No, you must stay here.”</p> +<p>“We cannot; we must go on.”</p> +<p>“If you go on you will be devoured by the <i>boroma badababa</i> +(great pig).”</p> +<p>I insisted upon going on; they called to those in the village, and +on being answered we again went on for about half a mile, when every +bundle was put down and a halt called, and again we had to listen to +the unintelligible story of the wild animal or animals that would destroy +us. We sat down and tried to get them to see as we did, that a +house was necessary for our comfort. A thunderstorm was working +up, and soon the rain would be down on us—let us be off for <!-- page 107--><a name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 107</span>the +village. They had a long confab with those in the village on the +ridge, which, when ended, seemed favourable; and so up the steep side +of the ridge we went. When halfway up they halted, and wanted +us to camp under the shelter of a great rock. Seeing some young +men with bundles rounding the rock, I joined myself to them, and away +we went, followed by the others to the village. Under the first +house in the village sat a man, with a large pig standing by him, which +he was clapping and scratching, as if to keep it quiet; and as we went +along we saw great pigs under the houses. Certainly they were +savage-looking pigs. We were given an open house, and the rain +was coming on. I was ascending, when it became necessary to spring +from a pig that was after me. Is this Goldie’s big beast +the natives told him of? This is a fine country. We passed +through large plantations of yams, taro, sugar-cane, and bananas. +During the evening we had crowds of men and lads—no women or children—to +see us. Some are quite light copper-coloured, others are very +dark; nearly all are dressed with cassowary feathers; many with ruffs +round their necks made from these feathers. There were none very +tall, but all seem well-built men, with good muscle. They have +the same calabashes and chunam sticks for betel-chewing as at Kerepunu. +Some chunam sticks made from cassowary bones are well carved. +They are a very noisy lot; one would think they were trying to see who +could speak the <!-- page 108--><a name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 108</span>loudest. +They tell us it is impossible to cross to the other side, as further +inland the ridge ends—and there is nothing but bare broken rook—inaccessible +all round. The majority of the men are bearded and moustached, +and have cassowary feathers like a pad behind, on which they sit. +They dress with a string. The demand for salt is very great; grains +are picked up, and friends are supplied with a few grains from what +they have got for taro. The name of the place is Kenagagara, 1810 +feet above the sea-level, E.N.E. from Uakinumu.</p> +<p>31<i>st</i>.—Great crowds of people keep going and coming. +We spent a miserable night. Our old chief, Oriope, had a conclave +round the fire, and it took him all night to recount the doings of the +<i>Naos</i> (foreigners), not forgetting the toilet. At times +he waxed eloquent, and the whole gully rung again. It was useless +telling him to be quiet. All men and lads have the nose and ears +pierced. A number of women and children are about. Some +of the women are fine, tall, muscular, and clear-skinned, as light-coloured +as Eastern Polynesians. The children are lithe, blithe, and hearty—some +very dark and some very light. The women have brought large quantities +of taro for salt. Oriope is very sleepy, and I have every now +and again to wake him up, so that to-night he may sleep soundly, and +not prevent our sleeping.</p> +<p>My name here is Oieva—that of the fine-looking old father of +the village. At present I am all alone <!-- page 109--><a name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 109</span>the +others being out after birds. The natives are very friendly. +They relish salt and ginger, which I have tried with them, and which +they pronounce good. Ruatoka and Maka have returned; they shot +a pig, which the natives who accompanied them cooked and divided, to +be carried in. The excitement is great over the division, and +the whole assembly are shouting; those from the hunt recounting the +day’s proceedings, acting the shooting of the pig, to the intense +delight and amazement of the others. They eat flesh nearly raw. +A pig is put on the fire until the hair is well singed off; then division +is made, then re-divided, and eaten. They take a piece between +the teeth, hold with one hand, and with a bamboo knife cut close to +the mouth. A bird is turned on the fire a few times, then cut +up and eaten.</p> +<p><i>August</i> 1<i>st</i>.—Left this morning to look for a track. +We passed through a fine large village about one mile from here, and +were joined by sixty men, all armed with spears and clubs, and faces +painted. They accompanied us for about four miles, and then turned +away to the south. We continued on the ridge for some miles further, +until we could see that all round were great inaccessible mountains +with bare faces. It begins with the Astrolabe, extending west +until Vetura is reached, and then away east by south until the centre +of the range is reached. In some places it has a perpendicular +rock face of many hundred feet; in other places it is broken rock with +bush growth, and <!-- page 110--><a name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 110</span>only +at very long distances can tracks be found, and even then it is difficult +to get up. We descended to the river, a large one, flowing west, +through great rocks, often lost, sometimes only pools appearing here +and there until, some distance down, and when eight hundred feet above +sea-level, it comes out a fine and flowing river. We had a good +bath, and, of course, the inevitable <i>kuku</i>, and then skirted the +side of the ridge, passing close by and under great rocks and overhanging +cliffs, and up a most extraordinary steep path into splendid sugar-cane +and taro plantations. Weary, we sat down and ate sugar-cane under +the shade of a great rock. This West Indian “long breakfast” +goes well when thirsty and hungry. The natives who accompanied +us, having caught a large rat and frog, turned them on the fire and +ate them.</p> +<p>A truly wonderful country! What terrible convulsions of nature +there must have been here ere these great boulders were displaced and +rolled about like mere pebbles! The villages are so built that +they are accessible only on two sides by very narrow tracks. We +saw no game of any kind, yet the cassowary must abound somewhere near, +as every one of the natives wears great head-dresses and neck-ruffs +made from the feathers. Our highest ascent to-day was to 2360 +feet above the sea-level; we call it Mount Bellamy; it stands out alone, +and from it we saw the Astrolabe, Vetura, and Munikahila.</p> +<p>2<i>nd</i>.—We left this morning for a pig and cassowary <!-- page 111--><a name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 111</span>hunt, +but were unsuccessful. We bagged four cockatoos, one green parrot, +one brueros, and three pigeons. Of my travelling in this land, +to-day beats all; it was along mere goat tracks, on the edge of frightful +precipices, down precipitous mountain-sides and up steep ridges, on +hands and knees at times, hanging on to roots and vines, and glad when +a tree offered a little rest and support. I gave it up at last, +hungry and weary, and let the others proceed. I stayed with a +party of natives who were getting a kind of large almond with a very +thick fleshy rind, the nut inside very hard, which they broke open with +stones, filling their kits with the kernels. They call the nut +<i>okari</i>. They fed me with sugar-cane, taro, and <i>okari</i>, +and then got leaves for me to rest on. They had all their arms +handy; I was, as I am always, unarmed, and felt thoroughly comfortable +with them. Only once in New Guinea have I carried a weapon, and +then we had spears thrown at us. I consider a man safer without +than with arms. The return “home” was frightfully +steep and trying to wearied and hungry folks.</p> +<p>3<i>rd</i>.—Youths busy with feathers of cockatoos got yesterday, +making head-dresses. They take the feather, strip it down, throw +the quill away, fasten all the stripped feathers neatly together, dry +in sun, then bind round their combs. One youth is preparing a +head-covering from the bark of the mulberry: he is making native cloth +by chewing <!-- page 112--><a name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 112</span>the +bark, and no wonder he complains of his jaws being sore, for it is a +long job. I gave the children presents of beads this morning, +and some of the old gentlemen objected, saying they ought to have had +them; but I did not understand them. It is very convenient at +times not to understand what is said—it is thoroughly native. +We have been asking them if they will receive teachers, and they all +say yes, and at once, for it means tomahawks, knives, and salt. +They say, “To-morrow we’ll all go and get the two teachers +at Munikahila and bring them here now.” We here are in excellent +health and spirits; a little disappointed at not being able to cross. +Certainly we have not lived on the best, and we have camped anywhere. +I like these mountaineers—free, independent, and kind. When +they cook taro, if near, we get a hot taro to eat, and often they bring +hot taro to the house. They bring their presents of taro and sugar-cane +and at once walk away. They have very good houses, thatched with +grass, some with a verandah on two sides, and all built six feet and +more from the ground. When we were away yesterday, a wild boar +from the bush took possession of the village. Often when the natives +are in the bush they have to seek refuge in climbing trees from the +savage tuskers, especially if they have been speared, and are determined +to fight. Our flag is flying, to signify that it is “resting +day.”</p> +<p>The natives very seldom bury their dead, leaving <!-- page 113--><a name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 113</span>the +body in a house set apart for it, which they often visit. When +a number of deaths take place, they leave the village and settle somewhere +else not far off. There is one grave here, near to our house, +on which a tobacco plant is growing, a bamboo pipe, the property of +the deceased, alongside, and a few sticks on end with yams on top. +When they do bury, the body is placed standing in the grave.</p> +<p>4<i>th</i>.—We left Kenakagara this morning, accompanied by +natives. Our friends soon left us, and we lost our way, and after +some hours’ travelling found ourselves in a thick bush and surrounded +by precipices. It has been up hill and down dale with a vengeance, +trying hard to get to the south-west. At last, wet through and +thoroughly tired, we camped to have breakfast, dinner, and supper in +one. We were ten hours on the tramp, and carrying our bags, so +feel ready for a night’s rest.</p> +<p>5<i>th</i>.—We see where we are; but how to get out is the +problem to be solved. Ruatoka has gone to look for a track. +We had a fine night, a roaring fire at our feet, and so enjoyed sleep. +Camping this way is preferable to living in native huts, far more comfortable +and enjoyable; but for our work it is better for us to be with the natives. +Uakinumu bears south-west-by-west from us now, and could be reached +in a few hours, if only we could get down the precipice. Rua has +returned. When some distance off, he heard cooeying, and responded, +when our old friend, who <!-- page 114--><a name="page114"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 114</span>had +been looking for us in a great state of fear, shouted his name. +Rua told him to follow, and he did so, arriving at the camp soon after. +He was so excited he could not speak, but embraced us all round, and +then sat down.</p> +<p>After breakfast, we set off, each carrying a bundle. The travelling +was difficult, until we arrived on the path leading to the creek and +up to Uakinumu. When on the spur, the old man shouted for the +youths to come and help us; they cooeyed back, and we hoped to see them +in about an hour, or at the most two hours; after waiting and no one +coming, we descended, and when at the creek met a youth coming slowly +along and saying others were following. I felt sure they delayed +their coming to meet us until we should be near the village, where they +would take the bags and receive tobacco and salt; but they were sold; +we trudged on, and would not let them have a bag. We took no notice +of those we met, and to their solicitations asking to carry bags we +turned a deaf ear. The chief’s eldest son came along and +begged to have my bag. No, on no condition. The poor old +chief was in a sad state; but as we are likely to require their services +some future day, it is necessary to teach them that for work or service +they will be paid, but for skulking, and hoping to get tobacco and salt, +their hopes are futile. We reached the village, and Oriope did +all he possibly could to keep us. No, on we will go; his sleepy +boys may sleep on. We gave him and <!-- page 115--><a name="page115"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 115</span>his +little grandchild who accompanied him presents, bade him good-bye, and +away.</p> +<p>6<i>th</i>.—Here, and in all the villages we have been, we +have seen very few women and girls, and very few of the young men seem +to be married. Do they kill the girls when born?</p> +<p>7<i>th</i>.—Left this morning for a mountain close by, hoping +to see the windings of the Laroki from it. We had to descend 1000 +feet, and then ascend 1800. From the droppings about, I should +say the cassowary and pig abound in the gullies about this mountain. +We found on the top a deserted village and five cocoanut-trees. +We could make nothing of the Laroki, because of thick bush on top. +We saw that the Munikahila creek flows west and south, until, due north +of this, it turns sharp and flows north-by-east and falls into the Goldie. +We reached camp with thoroughly whetted appetites, and enjoyed breakfast +and dinner of pigeons and taro. We call the mountain Mount Elsie. +It is north of Vetura, and west and south of Keninumu. We have +seen four new villages close to one another where a teacher could work +well. We have now five positions for teachers, and I hope before +we have finished with this inland trip to have thirty, giving four and +five villages to each teacher. In crossing one of the spurs, a +native and his son brought us bananas, and water in a bamboo. +It is difficult to drink out of a bamboo. Place the open end to +the mouth, raise gradually, look out, here it <!-- page 116--><a name="page116"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 116</span>comes—steady. +Ah, too much raised; it is a deluge streaming over you and nearly choking +you. Try again—well, a little better, yet far from perfect. +Choking, are you? Never mind, practise, and you will soon be an +expert—a native in drinking, truly. The natives have been +having a feast. They began with boiled bananas and finished with +a large snake cooked in pots. It was cut up and divided out amongst +all—sixteen eggs were found in her, a little larger than a good-sized +fowl’s egg. They seemed to relish it much, and the gravy +was much thought of. They say pig is nothing compared to snake. +Ah, well, tastes differ.</p> +<p>9<i>th</i>.—We had a few noisy strangers in the village, and +they seemed to be anxious that all they had to say should be heard in +every house. The conversation is kept up by the inmates of the +various houses, and at times all are speaking and trying to drown one +another. A lull comes, and you fancy the turmoil is ended, and +so roll on your side for a sleep; but, alas, it was only drawing breath, +the noise being perhaps worse than before. Our chief and his wife +had a quarrel over something or other last evening. Of course +the woman had the best of it. Strange, she said very little, but +that little seemed to be to the point. Every now and again he +would shout, <i>Pirikava</i>! <i>pirikava</i>! <i>pirikava</i>! +(Dear me! dear me! dear me!), and then scream and rage. The wife +would then laugh at him, which made him worse, <!-- page 117--><a name="page117"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 117</span>screaming +and dancing more than ever. She would then say something, which +he would answer, and so quieted him down a little. All have gone +hunting to-day—men, women, and children, pigs and dogs. +Before leaving, they told us if we saw any one sneaking about, we were +to be sure to shoot them; but if they came up openly to us, and pointed +to the nose and stomach, they were friends, and had come for salt and +tobacco. We get our water in canvas bags, and teachers or missionaries +coming inland will require a set of water-bags made from the very best +canvas.</p> +<p>11<i>th</i>.—A number of natives have gone to Port Moresby, +to help Rua and Maka with tomahawks, salt, &c. After they +left, we went to the bush, and cut down a number of trees for posts +for a house. The chief, Poroko, has given us land, at an elevation +of 1260 feet; splendid view all round; and if not healthy, I know not +where to go, unless it be to the top of Mount Owen Stanley. There +will be plenty of room for taro, sugar-cane, and coffee plantations. +A woman often passes us with a frightful load of taro and sugar-cane +on her back, and on the top of all an infant in a net basket. +She goes to the next house, swings the infant kit off first, placing +it on the ground, where the infant in it kicks and rolls, but cannot +get out until the kits of taro and sugar-cane are safely housed.</p> +<p>14<i>th</i>.—This morning, after an early breakfast, we <!-- page 118--><a name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span>started +with the Port Moresby natives for Munikahila, they being anxious to +secure a supply of betel-nuts to return with. Have promised our +old friend Oriope of Uakinumu, before we started on the Eikiri trip, +that if he led us across and gave us bearers, all should have tomahawks, +knives, etc. He did not carry out his part, and the bearers from +him returned, leaving us inland. I was anxious to pay them for +what they did, so we went on there with tomahawks, tobacco, and salt. +We were about two miles from the village, when we shouted, and were +replied to, and soon four young fellows came rushing along, in a great +state of perspiration and very excited, rubbing our chins and throwing +their arms around us, highly delighted that we had returned. They +were not going to serve us as they did the last time. We reached +the village, and were seated with strangers and surrounded by old friends, +when Oriope, who had been on his plantation, came along to where we +were, nearly breathless, and streaming with perspiration; he threw his +arms around me, embraced me, rubbing his dirty moist cheeks on mine, +sitting down and not speaking for some time. When he began, he +said he was afraid we were terribly offended, and would not return; +but, having returned to him, we must stay. No, we cannot; we must +return to Keninumu that night. Ah, he could manage it; he would +have us tied, and so detain us. Four coast natives who knew the +Koiari language were with us. We told our old <!-- page 119--><a name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 119</span>friend +we wanted a large quantity of betel-nuts, and that he had better set +out at once for them. Soon the women and lads were off. +We then removed to our old house on the rock, and there told him, through +the interpreter, what we had expected of him, and that he had not done +it, but that having told him we should pay them, we had come now to +do so for the journey made. We gave our tomahawks, tobacco, and +salt, and the old man was truly delighted, saying, “I and my people +will take you wherever we may go with safety.” He does not +go to sea on the other side, as Mr. Lawes supposed, and says it is impossible +to cross over unless we go up by Yule Island, and there he says it is +dangerous, because of the cannibals. In returning, I saw, for +the first time in New Guinea, a bush of the real South Sea Island <i>kava</i> +(<i>Piper methysticum</i>).</p> +<p>17<i>th</i>.—We have just had a service, and through Kena we +have told the natives the object of our coming and staying, that they +might know of the true God, and of Jesus Christ the Saviour. It +was interesting to mark the different expressions on their faces as +they heard for the first time of God—the God of love, and that +as His servants we were here. When told of the resurrection they +looked at one another; some laughed, others seemed serious. They +were very particular in their inquiries as to the name of the Great +Spirit, and of His Son—forgetting, and returning to hear it again.</p> +<p><!-- page 120--><a name="page120"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 120</span>18<i>th</i>.—Here +we are at Uakinumu for another trip; but alas, alas! cannot get carriers. +The young men are all off wallaby-hunting, so we must start. This +evening, a woman came in with several bamboos of grubs, which were cooked +in the bamboos, then spread on leaves; some salt was dissolved in the +mouth and squirted over all, and it was amusing to see the gusto with +which men, women, and children partook. Oriope is very persistent +in wanting a teacher. He was greatly delighted when I gave him +a large knife; he examined it all over, then pressed it with tender +affection to his bosom. Fearing lest some friends who are with +him at present might ask it from him, he returned it to me, requesting +me to keep it until they left.</p> +<p>20<i>th</i>.—Last night, after turning in, I heard a peculiar +noise, as of some one in great distress, then loud speaking in a falsetto +voice, and knew then what was up—we had a spiritist in the village, +and revelations were now about to be made. We were all named, +and the places we were to visit. I felt somewhat anxious as to +the revelation, for if it should be the least doubtful as to our going, +no native would stir with us. However, the revelation, on being +interpreted to us by Kena, was all right; we were good men, and kind, +and the villages would all willingly receive us. The spirit dilated +at length on the good qualities of foreign tobacco and the badness of +the native stuff, and wound up by asking for some <!-- page 121--><a name="page121"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 121</span>foreign. +Oriope at once got up and gave from his own stock what was wanted. +These native spiritists are terrible nuisances; they get whatever they +ask, and the natives believing so thoroughly in them, they have the +power of upsetting all arrangements and causing serious trouble. +This morning, I found our spirit friend to be a man who sat in our house +all day yesterday, a stranger from an inland village. He has quite +a different look from the other natives—an anxious, melancholy +expression. While at morning coffee, he came and sat down alongside +of us all right, and we learned from him that the spirit of a deceased +friend comes into him, and then things are revealed, the spirit speaking +through him. He says, when we were at Eikiri, a few weeks ago, +he knew it, and told the people of his village of it.</p> +<p>The wallaby-hunters are to come in this afternoon with great supplies. +When sitting round the fire with our old chief, we asked him if he knew +of any tailed folks about inland. “Oh dear, yes.” +And then he gave us a perfect and laughable description of what must +be some creature of the monkey tribe. It climbs, laughs, and talks +a peculiar language of its own; it scratches the head, slaps the thigh, +and sits down to eat like a man. I then said, “But they +are not really men?” “Well, not exactly, but very +near it; they are hairy all over, and some are perfectly black.” +The tail, according to his description, must be about a fathom long. +We are to see them, <!-- page 122--><a name="page122"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 122</span>and +must, he says, secure one or two, dead or alive. Our spirit is +out in his prognostications, the wallaby-hunters have not returned, +and we cannot leave to-morrow.</p> +<p>21<i>st</i>.—Our spirit friend is quite out as yet, for here +we are nursing Patience, and trying to make her a dear friend. +We are promised a start to-morrow. In the evening, the hunters +came in with large supplies of wallaby. They report innumerable +horses and foreigners as having gone to Kupele; we suppose it to be +Goldie’s party. From to-day’s shooting, the old man +got a green parrot, and devoured it raw. Oriope dressed himself +in his fighting gear, and went through a few antics; he looked a perfect +fiend. He is very proud of a stone club he possesses with a piece +broken off; he says it was broken in felling a tremendous fellow in +a neighbouring village. He killed him. “What, stand +before me!”</p> +<p>22<i>nd</i>.—I was eating a banana this morning, when I was +told not to throw the skin away, but hand it to them, which I did, when +it was passed round and kissed by all with short ejaculations. +I asked what it meant, and was told it was their manner of thanking +the spirits for ripe bananas. We started at eight a.m. with eight +carriers and our old friend, and twenty inland natives returning home +with wallaby; one poor woman had two large kits on her back, and an +infant in another, hanging in front of her. We were seven hours +on the tramp, along a good path, on <!-- page 123--><a name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 123</span>which +horses could get along well. The most difficult ascent was shortly +after we left Uakinumu; but the path was good. The last hour of +travelling was in a thunderstorm, with a regular tropical pour of rain. +When we neared the village Marivaeanumu, the men came rushing out with +their spears and shields, thinking it was an attacking party; but on +seeing Maka, who was just behind the first native, and I following up, +they shouted out, <i>Nao</i>, <i>nao</i>! (foreigners), and ran back +with their spears. The village is small, and the houses very dilapidated; +it is 1800 feet above sea-level. Maka was buying taro with salt, +and having finished, some natives noticed damp salt adhering to his +hand; they seized the hand, and in turn licked it until quite clean. +Grains of salt falling were sought for and picked up. The shields +here are the same as at Hood Bay, beautifully made. They are going +to fight soon with another district, and are making great preparations +in spears, clubs, and shields.</p> +<p>23rd.—Our spiritist gave us a very short and indistinct séance +last night. A man speared the other day in a wallaby hunt, near +the Laroki, he told us, was dead. He seemed to be raving a great +deal, and wound up the first part with, <i>Nao kuku daure</i> (Foreign +tobacco is bad). Continuing to rave and disturb sleep, I told +Oriope that, if that spirit did not at once go back where it came from, +I should certainly have to make it; he reported what I said, and the +spirit thought it advisable to leave. We started this morning +<!-- page 124--><a name="page124"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 124</span>after +a good breakfast, and had good travelling across a fine level country +E.S.E. for about four hours, crossing several times the head of the +Laroki: it is a magnificent country for horses. In somewhat thick +scrub, a youth met the first of our party, and was fraternizing very +feelingly with them: I appeared, and he took to his heels, and no calling +of friends or foreigners could bring him back. We came suddenly +upon a woman and two children, and, poor things! they went into a terrible +state; nothing would comfort them; beads, tobacco, and salt lost their +charm on them. The family pig was with them; it danced, grunted, +advanced, retired, and finally made at me. In the morning I took +a piece of plaster from my heel, and threw it into the fireplace; instant +search was made for it by about a dozen natives; it was found, and handed +back to me, they making signs that I should throw it somewhere else. +Yesterday morning I unthinkingly put the loose hair from my comb into +the fire, and great was the outcry.</p> +<p>We are now in Nameanumu, in the Sogeri district, and in a fine house +twelve feet from the ground. We are about 1530 feet above sea-level. +Teachers here need have no difficulty about food; there is a great abundance +all round of taro, banana, sugar-cane, and bread-fruit. A teacher +with some “go” in him, and a good earnest wife to help him, +would do well here. I am inclined to think an easier way here +will be from Moumiri; but we have to travel with natives <!-- page 125--><a name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 125</span>where +they can take us with safety to themselves. Sitting round the +fire a little while ago, our spirit friend having just left us, an old +woman shouted out to Oriope to look out, as the spirit was about to +go through the thatch near to where he was sitting. Instant search +was made, but nothing found. She then called out from her verandah +that it had gone, as Rua and Maka were doing something with their guns. +I may say the old woman was with us last night, and heard my threat. +We have had the description here of some other animal that is in the +Kupele and Moroka districts. It is a dangerous one to go near, +and several have lost their lives from it.</p> +<p>24<i>th</i>.—Very heavy rain. A number of people have +come in from the villages to have a look at us, so I have to go through +the process of baring arms and chest. This forenoon they described +an animal to us that I think must be the tiger—a long animal, +with a long tail and large paws, treads lightly when seeing its prey, +and then bounds upon it, tearing the bowels out first. They say +they are as long as the house—twelve feet. We are not prepared +to tackle such, customers. Our host is a quiet man, with a very +pleasing expression of countenance. I like the people much, and +pray God the day is near when they shall have the Gospel preached unto +them, and receive it, and know it to be the power of God unto salvation. +Evil spirits reign over them, and the utterance of every rascally spiritist +is thoroughly believed.</p> +<p><!-- page 126--><a name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 126</span>They +seem very much attached to their children, and in their own peculiar +way, I dare say, love their wives. Husband and wife meeting after +a separation is strange. Some who returned with us had been away +for a fortnight; their wives looked pleased when they saw them, so did +the husbands; not a word was spoken, only a look; clubs and spears were +put down, and the husbands went to where other men were sitting, the +wives to light fires and cook food; when cooked, the wife took it to +the husband, who ate a little, gave away some, and then went and sat +by his wife. I have noticed that the wives are particularly happy +when preparing this return food. Oriope’s wife, who accompanied +us, is ill with a cold; I wished her to take a dose of chlorodyne, but +she cried and hesitated much; the old man then took the cup and told +her to look; he drank some of it, said it was not bad, and then pressed +her to drink it off, which she did.</p> +<p>25<i>th</i>.—We left this morning at eight, and arrived at +Orofedabe, in the Favele district, at one p.m. The walking was +good and steady, the first few miles along the valley beneath a mountain +in the Sogeri district, which we called Mount Nisbet, and the range +near to Eikiri. We crossed the Laroki several times, and sat near +its head; then ascended an easy ridge of the Owen Stanley Range. +We travelled for about two hours along this ridge, then descended, crossing +two streams, which we suppose to be the head streams <!-- page 127--><a name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 127</span>of +the Kemp Welch, flowing into Hood Bay. There are six small villages +on ridges close by, high mountains all round, and not far off the mountain +on which the wild animal lives. They tried to persuade us that +this was Meroka, and there was no use our going further; but we could +not believe it, and I brought my compass out, and pointed to them where +Eikiri, Sogeri, Kupele, and Hapele were, and told them where I expected +to find Meroka, which cannot be very far off. When they saw I +knew something of our position, they said we could not get to Meroka, +because of rocks and wild beasts. At the village we slept the +last two nights they did all they could to detain us, because of the +salt and beads. They were assisted by Oriope, who was anxious +that all should go to his cousin and friends, with whom we were staying. +In a conversation they had under the house, shortly after we arrived, +I could hear sufficient to enable me to understand they would keep us +there, and not let other villages get salt and beads. I got thoroughly +vexed with the old man, and told him he could return home, and that +unless we saw numerous villages with plenty of people we should not +again return here. He turned right round, and told us we should +see Favele and Meroka, and many villages, only we must return to his +cousin’s; that was all right, we certainly should return. +This morning, I told him to remain and take care of his wife; that the +people here would lead us and carry our things. <!-- page 128--><a name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 128</span>He +begged of me to leave some of the things to ensure our return, and I +did so. Some of the people here are very dark and others very +light.</p> +<p>26<i>th</i>.—They tried hard to prevent our going to Meroka +this morning, saying we should be eaten by the <i>Jakoni</i> (wild beast)—and +how could they return? That would not do—go I must; so I +got the things out, and asked some Meroka natives, who had come in, +to pick them up and let us start. They refused, and joined in +with our friends, saying we had better remain. No; I must see +Meroka, and until I saw it not a taro would be bought nor a pile of +salt given. They all sat down, looking true savages. After +some time, I said, “Meroka, or we return at once.” +I got my bag and went on to the path; they got up, and called to me +to come back—they would go to Meroka, but leave the things, and +return here to sleep. No; I must have the things; I might want +to sleep at Meroka. That was terrible, the salt would be finished, +and there would be none for them here. Would I not consent to +their taro being bought, and then they would go with me? No; Meroka +first, and taro when we return.</p> +<p>Seeing there was nothing for it—that go I would—they +consented, and the Meroka folks picked up the things, and away we went. +It was a short walk across the side of a ridge, down about 600 feet +and up to 1500, and then along another ridge. We soon had crowds +to see us, men, women, and children; <!-- page 129--><a name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 129</span>and +all were delighted, for we bought their taro. The village we stayed +at was new, and they told us formerly they lived further in on the mountain, +but a man was eaten by the <i>Jakoni</i>, and they came down. +A number of natives were in mourning for the man eaten. After +some time, we got up to ascend the ridge, to have a good view of the +villages and decide on our position. They tried hard to prevent +us, but we went on, a few following to the next village. They +pretended great fear of the <i>Jakoni</i>, and at some places begged +of us to tread lightly, and not to speak. It was all a ruse to +get us back. We went on, and up to the highest village, where +we had a splendid view. We counted fourteen villages on the ridges +in the Meroka basin and on the other side of the river we had crossed, +and as many more known as Havele. I believe it would be much easier +to get here from Eikiri than from Sogeri. The natives of Oriramamo, +the highest village, told us they went from there to Eikiri in one day.</p> +<p>The people of Meroka are very mixed, some very dark, others very +light. Some of the women had quite an Eastern Polynesian look; +some of the children were well-formed, and really pretty. A few +men had light-coloured whiskers; curly heads abounded, although a number +had straight hair. They say they are not Koiari. The Koiari +comprises Munikahila, Eikiri, Sogeri, Taburi, Makapili Pakari; and Eikiri +is N.W. from Oriramamo; Mount <!-- page 130--><a name="page130"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 130</span>Bellamy +is W.N.W. A high round mountain, I have named Ben Cruachan, east; +Mount Nisbet, W.S.W. The high rock on the easterly side of Mount +Nisbet is just over the house where we slept, and will be known in future +as the Clachan. They say there are five kinds of wild animals +on the mountains at the back, and but for these they could easily cross +to Kupele. The Jakoni, Gomina, and Agila are very large and fierce. +The Papara and Gadana are small, but fierce. We were eating biscuits, +and they begged for a very small piece each, to keep as a charm to help +them catch pigs. Hairs from the beard are in great demand as charms. +Having seen all we wanted, and not being able to persuade the natives +to accompany us up to the mountain to see the wild animals, I decided +to return to Orofedabe; so we returned to the village, gave the taro +we bought to the people, paid our attendants and for the house where +our things were, and away we went. Our friends were glad to see +us, and rejoiced greatly when the taboo was taken off the salt, and +taro was bought. We are having rain and thunderstorms every afternoon.</p> +<p>27<i>th</i>.—Maka poised a stick twelve feet long on his finger; +the natives tried it and failed; again Maka did it, and all who were +looking on came to the conclusion it was very easy for him to do, as +a spirit held it for him. In each place we have been, when at +prayers, all the natives are most respectful, <!-- page 131--><a name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 131</span>keeping +perfect silence and bending their heads. We had a fine tramp back +to-day, and a refreshing bath in the Laroki after it. We have +paid our carriers, and they are rejoicing greatly. We were glad +to find our old friend and his wife well, and the things we left just +as we hung them up. They are very anxious to have teachers here. +We were telling them that we could see no people, and they have gone +and brought in great crowds, saying, “No people! what are these?” +I cut up tobacco and spread it out on a leaf in the centre of the crowd, +and called out, “For Sogeri.” One of their number +was appointed by them, and he distributed it, all sitting quietly round. +I got some salt in a paper, and did as with the tobacco. All rose, +and in order approached, took some and retired, leaving the remainder, +nearly half, for a very old man. The beads I gave to the women, +the men saying they ought to have had them too. “Come and +live with us; there is no place like Sogeri—it is good, it is +large, it is peaceful, and there is plenty of food.” So +say the Sogerians. I was sitting on the ladder of the house, the +crowd sitting round. Rua was in the bush with his gun; he fired +at a bird, and it was amusing to see the simultaneous jerk of the crowd +when they heard the shot.</p> +<p>28<i>th</i>.—Last night, a chief, Biaiori, of Eribagu, slept +in the house with us, to be ready to lead us to his village and other +villages about in the morning. We <!-- page 132--><a name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 132</span>started +about half-past seven; but it was evident at the start he had been talked +over during the night in quiet whisperings, so as not to take us anywhere +but his own village. We walked about a mile and a half, and came +to his village, in a fine dry position, much preferable to the one we +had left—good houses, one house floored with cedar slabs, and +having a fine verandah all round. I wished to see a chief I had +met yesterday, Jaroga, and was told he was at the next village, so we +up with our bundles and away for about half a mile further on, to a +nice clean village. I at once asked Jaroga to lead us to the places +he named yesterday; he was quite willing, and began pointing in the +various directions, and naming the villages, but was soon silenced by +signs and words from others; he then said he could not go; so we left +to go to Epakari; a young man very much attached to Maka, and who has +been with us for ten days, having promised yesterday to lead us there. +We had to carry our bags—not a very agreeable job. We had +great excitement at leaving, our old chief insisting on our going back +to Uakinumu; but we had discarded him, and were determined to find our +own way should Someri, Maka’s friend, fail us. I gave orders +to keep a good look-out on Someri, who was carrying a bundle, and he +was given into Maka’s care. Our young friend was very quiet, +and tried skulking behind and moving on fast ahead. When crossing +<!-- page 133--><a name="page133"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 133</span>a +ridge about three miles from the village, I was leading, when we heard +Maka calling for Someri. Rua at once returned, and found the bird +had flown, leaving the bundle, but carrying with him the camp tomahawk, +which Maka had foolishly let him have to cut a stick with. It +would be folly to return to get the tomahawk, so we kept south and west +for some distance, when we came to a deserted village; then we turned +west. We crossed the Laroki several times before we came into +the open country; at our last crossing we met a company of natives, +all armed, on watch for Makapili natives, who were expected to attack +them. They took our bundles, and led us to a small village, where +we met some of our Marivaeanumu friends, who led us to their village +and to our old house. A young child called Maka was presented +for presents, the father telling Maka he called the child after him, +because he was his friend when we were here last. We have now +the open country before us, and expect no trouble in getting along. +The natives are all unsettled at present, and every man we meet is armed. +I can see the country better to-day than when here last week. +Marivaeanumu is on a rise near the hills of Eikiri and north-north-west +from Sogeri. The latter district is in a valley between the Owen +Stanley Range and Mount Nisbet, to the south-west of it. Eribagu +would make a good station for the Sogeri district. This place +would be a suitable station being at the <!-- page 134--><a name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>head +of the plain that reaches away to the Astrolabe on the one side, and +up to Vetura and Uakinumu on the other, stretching east by Mount Nisbet, +and away east and south, by the country at the back of Mapakapa. +The Laroki rises in the Owen Stanley Range, and is the drain for the +Sogeri district and all the plain; it is very circuitous, and near here +very deep and slow, flowing west.</p> +<p>29<i>th</i>.—For nearly six hours we have been travelling with +our bags, and I can honestly say I feel tired. We are now at a +new village—the houses just going up—on the top of the high +green hill in front of Munikahila, overlooking the Kupa Moumiri valley. +The village is named Keninumu, and consists of four houses at present, +two on high trees and two on high rocks. We have pitched our tent +close by, and intend resting until Monday, when we hope to start for +the plain—a very fine country, but no natives. This part +of the plain is dry and barren, with stunted gum-trees. A party +met us when near the village, and a woman with a child on her shoulder, +I suppose seeing me look tired, insisted on my giving her my bag. +I looked at the child, and wondered how she was going to manage, but +that was soon arranged; she made the child sit on her left shoulder, +holding her by the hair; then she took my bundle, and away she went. +Some young men have come in from one of the districts we wish to visit, +and I hope to keep them until we leave; it will be a help and of great +<!-- page 135--><a name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 135</span>value +as an introduction at this time of trouble. We are 1440 feet above +sea-level.</p> +<p>A fortnight ago there was a great wallaby hunt down at Moumiri, and +natives from all the districts round were present. A native of +Munikahila speared a man from Tabori, who died soon after, so now Makipili, +Epakari, and Efari are said to have joined on with Tabori, and unitedly +mean to attack Munikahila. All the natives condemn the murder +of the man, because of the time and place.</p> +<p>31<i>st</i>.—Natives all excitement, expecting Munikahila to +be attacked. Every evening the men go armed to Munikahila, and +the women, children, dogs, and pigs to the bush. I am sorry our +Keninumu friends should consider it their duty to assist the murderers. +The natives of the district to which the murdered man belonged are quietly +biding their time, hunting wallaby close by us. The kind woman +who assisted me the other day has a son by her first husband living +at Keninumu, and for a long time she has not seen him, he being afraid +to come here. She knows that Maka was returning yesterday, and +felt sure her son would accompany him. When some distance from +here, Maka fired a shot, to let us know he was coming, to which we responded, +assuring him all was right. On hearing the shot, the poor woman +became quite excited, came and sat down by our fire, got up and got +us firewood, sat down again, telling Kena to get the taro cooked for +Maka, rose again and <!-- page 136--><a name="page136"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 136</span>fetched +more firewood, then sat down in front of the path, looking steadily +and anxiously for the travellers. Poor body! they came in sight, +but her son was not one of them. She seemed to feel it very much, +rose, went to her house, and was not seen again until this morning. +God grant the day is near when the song the heavenly host sang, “Glory +to God in the highest, peace on earth and good will toward men,” +shall be known and enjoyed here!</p> +<p><i>September</i> 1<i>st</i>.—We left this morning at seven +o’clock and drew up at Makapili at four p.m., resting by the way. +For salt, tobacco, and beads, we had help all the way. What appears +a fine level plain in the distance turns out to be a fine country, full +of ridges and luxuriant valleys, abounding in every kind of native vegetable. +From the departure this morning until our bringing-up we could have +ridden horses at a fine canter along the ridges from one to another. +This is the best country I have yet seen in New Guinea, and the natives +seem very kind and friendly. At the Laroki we had to strip, and, +just above small rapids, holding on by a long line fastened to poles +on each side, we crossed over. The natives have the line to help +them when the river is up. We called at several villages on the +ridges, passed others, some on large table-rocks. Fancy a table-rock +with twenty or thirty houses on it. At Chokinumu, a village 1600 +feet above the sea, S.E. from Marivaenumu seven miles, we alarmed the +people so that they rushed <!-- page 137--><a name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>away, +leaving us the village. Shortly a man came back, pretending to +be very unconcerned, chewing betel-nut; we soon were friends, and he +called out to the others, and they returned. We told him where +we were going, and he said he and his wife would accompany us, as we +were the first foreigners who had ever been to his village, and he would +not leave us. At other villages they also cleared out, screaming +terribly. Gimenumu, 1900 feet above sea-level, and two miles east +from Chokinumu, will make a fine mission station—a large village, +fine plantations, and plenty of water. We crossed several streams +from the Astrolabe Range, all flowing into the Laroki. The whole +drainage of the Astrolabe Range and of this country falls into the Laroki. +We are now in Vaiako, Makipili district, 2250 feet, in a really lovely +spot.</p> +<p>There are a great many natives in this district. About four +miles from here we passed a deserted village on a table-rock, at one +time the home of this people; but the Sogeri natives came over and killed +eleven of them, and the others thought it time to settle somewhere else. +We have now a splendid view of Mount Owen Stanley, due north of us, +and rising far away, clear and distinct above a thick mass of cloud. +Mount Bellamy stands alone, with a bare south-east side, and Mount Nisbet +just across from here, behind which is Sogeri, so much dreaded by this +people. On all the ridges stretching away to <!-- page 138--><a name="page138"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 138</span>the +eastward from here behind Kapakapa are natives. A woman, coming +to have a look at us, spied our black dog, Misi Dake, and off she went, +climbing a tree, kit and all, quicker than I ever saw a native climb +before. We met a fine old patriarch in a stream about two miles +from here, and the meeting with our friend from Chokinumu was most affecting, +touching chins and falling into one another’s arms weeping. +He sat down beside me with grave dignity, and the woman from Chokinumu +sat in front of him, chanting and weeping. We had strawberries +coming along, with little or none of the flavour of the home strawberry. +The raspberry bush is very abundant.</p> +<p>2<i>nd</i>.—Just after sunrise we had a great crowd up at the +tent to have a peep at us. At eight o’clock, we started +for the summit of the Astrolabe, to have a look at the sea. It +is very broken on the summit, and we had a good deal of ascending and +descending before we got over Kaili, to be disappointed in not seeing +the sea, the fog hanging thick under our feet. We returned by +a very circuitous path, passing several villages built on rocks and +trees. On one large table-rock was a snug village, and to the +east of the rock four large posts beautifully carved. On feast +days, the food is collected close to these, and a platform is fixed +to the posts, on which dancing takes place. We returned at three +p.m. The old chief soon followed us up to the camp with a large +present of food, and saying he hoped we would soon return. <!-- page 139--><a name="page139"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 139</span>I +hope the same. After some delay, so that it might not appear as +payment for the present, we gave our present to the old chief; when +he got the tomahawk, he wept for joy, looked at his friends, then at +us, pressed it to his bosom, and then kissed it. The chiefs name +is Kunia.</p> +<p>3<i>rd</i>.—We left Makipili this morning at eight o’clock, +and came along leisurely, arriving at Chokinumu at half-past ten. +The chief and his wife who accompanied us pressed us to stay a night +in their village, and, seeing it would displease them if we went on, +we consented. We had a thorough downpour of rain in the afternoon, +after a very hot sun, the thunder rolling all round us. The chief +Lohiamalaka and his wife are exceedingly kind and attentive; they have +kept close by us since we left here on Monday. I am sorry for +the Makipili people; they are so afraid of Sogeri, that they have left +their houses, and are living in the bush and under the shelter of rocks. +Sogeri, Makipili says, will listen to no conditions of peace. +Several overtures have been made, but all are useless. We were +told at several places that if we ventured to Makipili we should never +return; but we have been there, were treated kindly, and pressed to +return.</p> +<p>4<i>th</i>.—Using our blankets yesterday as a flag for our +tent, they got so wet that it required a day to dry them, so we decided +to remain here and visit the Laroki Falls. Ten days ago, we found +from the <!-- page 140--><a name="page140"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 140</span>natives +that they were near here. The native name is <i>Round</i>. +We found the falls in a deep gorge formed by the west end of Astrolabe +and east end of Vetura Range. On each side of the gorge the mountains +run sharp down, in many places precipitous rocks. The falls are +E. from Port Moresby, E.S.E. from Moumili, and S.E. from Vetura proper. +They are grand, and well worth seeing. I wish we had seen them +from below. For a long distance up there are small falls and rapids. +The water comes surging on, and then takes a fearful leap of many hundred +feet on to a ledge, and from there to the boiling cauldron below. +The noise is deafening. Where we stood, nearly level with the +water, it was 1340 feet above sea-level, and I do not think that from +there to the cauldron could be less than 900 feet. I think it +may be possible to get to them from the north side by Mangara, and then +we can rightly tell the height of the falls.</p> +<p>5<i>th</i>.—Left Chokinumu this morning at eight, and had a +pleasant walk for three hours, ascending gradually the Astrolabe until +we reached the summit at the back of Tupuselei, 2300 feet high. +We were resting before descending, when a native party appeared and +approached us, somewhat scared. They said on coming up they heard +the noise as of chopping wood (we were marking trees). They came +on, and saw through the bush a white man, and at once went back; then, +hearing as if natives were with him speaking in Koiari, they returned +and determined to <!-- page 141--><a name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 141</span>meet. +They were much pleased at receiving a present of salt. We descended +on the west side of the Astrolabe; the descent, being steep and difficult, +took us some time. In the afternoon we arrived at Janara, near +to Efari, at the back of Pyramid Point, the Astrolabe bearing north. +Our friend Lohiamalaka, the chief of Geminumu Monito, and three youths +are with us. I have never met a kinder and more friendly native +than Lohiamalaka. Janara is a good large district, and seems to +have a number of natives. The village we are in is 600 feet above +sea-level. Tupuselei is the nearest mission station, and a teacher +placed here or at Efari would have constant communication with that +place. I was the first to enter the village. They had heard +us cooeying to one another; so only saw one man, and he tried to look +very unconcerned, with a bamboo pipe, trying to light it, but too excited +to succeed. The women had shut themselves indoors with the children, +and the men had gone into the bush close by with their weapons.</p> +<p>6<i>th</i>.—From Janara to Epakari there are several steep +ridges to go up and down, and the last ascent is truly steep. +It took us three good steady hours’ walking and climbing to get +to Karikatana, the first of six villages in this district. Dawes +and Stone were at a village, I believe, on a ridge nearer to Port Moresby. +The chief, Nikanivaipua, received us graciously, and insisted on our +taking his house. We paid off our friends, and they departed well +pleased. We received <!-- page 142--><a name="page142"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 142</span>presents +of cooked food and smoked wallaby. They were prepared for us, +having been shouted to an hour before we arrived at the village by our +friend Lohiamalaka. The village looks to be in a fine healthy +position, close to the west end of the Astrolabe, the high bluff bearing +N.E. They have plenty of all kinds of food. We crossed from +the Janara, a good-sized mountain torrent flowing S.W. to Bootless Inlet. +We are 700 feet high. High bluff of Astrolabe, N.E.; Bootless +Inlet, S.S.W.; peak of Astrolabe above Kaili, E.S.E.</p> +<p>7<i>th</i>.—Our friend Lohiamalaka turned up again last evening; +he did not like leaving us. This morning he really set off, promising +to visit us at Port Moresby in October; that is, not this moon, nor +the next, but the one that follows. I asked for a little ginger +to eat, and they have brought it me in bundles. It is really good +when green, with salt. A large number of natives attended our +service, and were truly orderly—not a whisper, and during prayer +every head bent. On the Astrolabe, the other day, Lohiamalaka +said he felt anxious for us in entering Janara. Rua, through Kena, +told him not to fear anything on our account, as the Great Spirit was +with us, and no harm could come near us. Last evening, he was +telling the people here of his fears, and what Rua said, “and +how true it was the Great Spirit or something is with them.” +At all the villages Lohiamalaka repeated all he could remember of what +he had been told, and of our singing and praying. <!-- page 143--><a name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 143</span>Every +evening he would sit at the tent door and get us to sing for the benefit +of a crowd of natives outside, who, having heard from himself of our +musical powers, refused to go to their homes at sunset, and insisted +on remaining until after <i>noko</i> (singing). When the Koiari +visit the coast they go in for begging largely, and they generally get +what they ask, as the Motu people are very much afraid of their spiritual +power, they being thought to hold power over the sun, wind, and rain, +and manufacturing or withholding the latter at will. When the +Motu people hear that Koiarians are coming, they hide their valuables. +All the young swells here have head-dresses of dogs’ teeth, got +from the seaside natives. At Eikiri, they told us they got theirs +by killing and stealing. We can truly say we are under arms in +this house—sixty-two spears overhead, four shields on walls, and +two stone clubs keeping watch at the door. A Makipili woman has +been telling Kena how she happens to be here. Formerly her people +and these were at enmity. Makipili sought peace, but had no pig. +She was selected to supply want of pig, and taken with food. When +she grew up, the old man (not her husband) insisted on her living with +him.</p> +<p>8<i>th</i>.—We had six hours’ good walking, and are now +encamped under the shade of Vetura. The country from Epakari to +here is very ridgy, and, after leaving the ridges of Epakari, very barren. +Coming suddenly on a large party of men, women, and children returning +<!-- page 144--><a name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 144</span>from +a dance, they were so frightened when we called out, <i>Naimo</i>! that +they set off, kits, spears, and drums, and no fine words would bring +them back. We have seven natives with us; the old chief says he +must see us safe to Keninumu. We passed a fine village—Umiakurape—on +a ridge west of Karikatana; the chiefs name is Vaniakoeta. It +would make a splendid station. The high ridge at the back of Epakari, +along which we came, is 1000 feet high, and from it we saw Fisherman’s +Island, Redscar Bay, Bootless Inlet, and the whole coast east to Round +Head.</p> +<p>9<i>th</i>.—Arrived at Keninumu at half-past ten a.m. +Found all well. The natives are constantly on the look-out for +the Tabori attack on Munikahila. We hear the Munikahila natives +have been stealing from Goldie.</p> +<p>14<i>th</i>.—Since our return we have been house-building, +but are getting on very slowly. I fear we are six weeks too late +for the Kupele district, and shall have to leave it for another season. +It would be awkward to get in and not get back until the end of the +wet season. I find our friend the chief, Poroko, has had two wives; +one he killed lately. She was in the plantation, and some young +fellows coming along, she sat down with them to have a smoke and get +the news; Poroko heard of it, and on her coming home in the evening +he killed her. A woman at Favelle said, “Oh, the Koiari +man thinks nothing of killing his wife.” The word for “sneeze” +in Koiari is <i>akiso</i>. <!-- page 145--><a name="page145"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 145</span>When +they are leaving for a journey or going for the night they call out +<i>kiso</i>, and often from their houses they shout their good-night +to us, <i>kiso</i>. There is a woman in deep mourning for her +daughter. She has hanging round her neck all the ornaments once +the property of the deceased, and along with them the jawbone. +The headless body she visits occasionally, and rubs herself all over +with the juice from it!</p> +<p>18<i>th</i>.—We have a great crowd of natives in from Kupele, +the nearest district to Mount Owen Stanley. They are the same +race of people as at Meroka—some very dark, others very light-coloured. +Their weapons are the same as the Koiari, as also is their dress. +Two men are in mourning, and are wearing netted vests. The chief +is rather a fine-looking fellow, and dressed profusely with cassowary +feathers. They all have a wisp of grass bound tight at one end, +and hanging from a girdle behind, to be used as a seat when they sit +down. It is a stretch of imagination to say it looks like a tail. +They are very anxious we should accompany them on their return, and +say they will show us plenty of villages and people. Yesterday +we had great feasting in the villages on yams and taro. To an +Eastern Polynesian it would be ridiculous to call it a feast, seeing +there was no pig. In the evening we had a good deal of palavering +with spears and shields, fighting an imaginary foe, and at times retreating. +Their movements are swift and graceful: advance, retreat, advance, pursue, +ward off to the right, to the <!-- page 146--><a name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 146</span>left, +shield up, down, aside, struck on knee, a shout, all gone through, with +the greatest alacrity, and I am not at all astonished at so few being +killed or wounded in a fight. They value shields that bear the +marks of spears.</p> +<p>19<i>th</i>.—Our old friend Oriope came in to-day, and handed +us the tomahawk, stolen by the deserter on our last trip. He says +when he heard how Someri had served us he sent at once to Sogeri, and +got the tomahawk, telling them it was very wrong to steal from such +dear friends of his. One of the Kupele natives stole a knife, +but he had to give it up to the Keninumu friends, who returned it to +us. I should have liked to have started a station at Chokinumu, +so as to try the climate of both sides of the district this wet season.</p> +<p>23<i>rd</i>.—We find it impossible to get the men to help us +with the house whilst so many of us are here, so we return to the port, +hoping to get into Chokinumu soon. The people, seeing that we +are really going, have begged hard for Jakoba to be left, and they promise +faithfully to assist him in finishing the house. Jakoba being +anxious to remain with them, I consented.</p> +<p>24<i>th</i>.—Arrived at Moumiri about two p.m. We heard +there that Tabori and Makipili have been murdering. A number of +people from Marivaenumu were here wallaby-hunting, and on returning +were met; three women and two men were killed. They report here, +also, that Kupele proper (a small village) no <!-- page 147--><a name="page147"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 147</span>longer +exists; the Koiari to the west of us having gone over and killed all +but five, who have gone to another village.</p> +<p>26<i>th</i>.—Returned to Port Moresby to-day, and found all +well, and good news from all the stations. The services have gone +on here in Rua’s absence with great success. On two Sundays +the chief Poi conducted the services, addressing those present, and +telling them he thought that now it was time for them all to receive +the Gospel which had been so faithfully taught them during these years; +in prayer he remembered us who were inland, and asked our Father in +heaven to watch over us and bring us back safely, and to enlighten all +of them at the seaside.</p> +<h2><!-- page 148--><a name="page148"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 148</span>CHAPTER +IV. PEACE-MAKING.</h2> +<p>Mr. Chalmers asked by the natives to go to Elema—Native fears—Difficulties +at the start—Namoa—Delena—A Motumotu trading canoe—Interview +with Semese, chief of Lese—Christian natives—Friendly meeting +with a war canoe—Arrival at Motumotu—Friendly reception—Viewing +Mr. Chalmers’s feet—Natives in full dress—Sunday open-air +service—Sago as an article of commerce—Peace agreed upon—Return +to Boera.</p> +<p>When at Kabadi in 1880, the natives begged of me to endeavour to +prevent the Elema natives paying them another visit, as they were now +living in the bush near the hills. All along the coast the people +were much afraid, expecting a raid, and at last news came in from Maiva +that Motumotu and Lese were making great preparations that they would +visit Motu, kill Tamate and Ruatoka, then attack right and left. +Last year, when leaving, they said they would return and pay off accounts, +kill the foreigners first, then all the natives they could get hold +of.</p> +<p>Under these circumstances, I resolve to visit Motumotu, and beard +the lion in his den. I did not believe they would touch me, but +I feared they meant mischief to Kabadi and the coast villages. +No time could <!-- page 149--><a name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 149</span>be +lost, as we were in a bad month for rain and storms, and the coast line +is long and bad. The natives said it was too late, yet I resolved +to try it.</p> +<p>On the 5th January, 1881, we opened the new church at Port Moresby, +and baptised the first three New Guinea converts. The church was +crowded, and all seemed interested. I arranged for Piri and his +wife to accompany me to the Gulf, they taking the whale-boat. +We cannot call at Kabadi on our way down, as we must hurry on, but our +natives here were going to Kabadi, and gladly took the news.</p> +<p>On January 10, the flag flying on the boat told all that we were +to start. Our leader ran off to Kaili last night, but Huakonio, +one of the three baptised on the 5th, was willing to go. Our boat’s +crew were considered fools, rushing into the arms of death. Wives, +children, and friends were gathered round weeping. The men said, +“Cannot you see that if Tamate lives we shall live, and if he +is murdered we shall be murdered? It is all right; we are going +with him, and you will see us back all right with sago and betel-nuts.” +Huakonio told me in the boat that every means imaginable but physical +force were used to prevent their accompanying me; and he added, “We +know it is all right; the Spirit that has watched over you in the past” +(naming the various journeys) “will do so now; and if we return +safe, won’t the people be ashamed?”</p> +<p>We left Port Moresby about nine a.m. with a light <!-- page 150--><a name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 150</span>head +wind; outside found the current very strong, setting easterly. +We arrived at Boera at four p.m., and found Piri and his wife ready +to start at once. Piri has a Boera crew, and we increased ours +here by two. Here the natives did not seem at all afraid, and +many wished to accompany us.</p> +<p>On leaving Boera, it was a beautiful clear and moonlight night, and +there was a light land breeze. Pulling brought us to Varivara +Islands, in Redscar Bay, about two a.m., where we anchored until six +when we tried to make Cape Suckling. As it was blowing hard from +the north-west, we had to put into Manumanu. The Motu traders +did all they could to persuade us to give up Motumotu, and to visit +Kabadi. Both crews would gladly have given up; their friends told +them to leave us, and return in the trading canoes. They came +to me to say “the bad weather has set in, the winds and rains +are here, we cannot go on.”</p> +<p>I replied, “Think, my children, of the disgrace. We started +to go to Motumotu, and at the first breath of contrary wind we put back. +It must not be. Let us try it a little longer, and if the wind +increases we can put back, and not feel ashamed.”</p> +<p>“You are right,” they rejoined; “we will go on +with you.”</p> +<p>At sunset we all got into our boats, and were ready for a start. +A fellow who has just returned from Kabadi thought to get over me by +saying, “Tamate, <!-- page 151--><a name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 151</span>Kabadi +are looking daily for you, and they have a large present ready; feathers +in abundance and sago; your two boats cannot take half.”</p> +<p>“I am going to Motumotu, and not all the feathers in Kabadi, +nor all the sago they can prepare, will turn me now, until I have made +a fair trial, and then, if driven back, I will visit Kabadi.”</p> +<p>I believe our crew had had a talk with that man before he came to +me.</p> +<p>It was five o’clock on January 12th before we got to Namoa, +near Cape Suckling. Maiva canoes passed with wallaby from Namoa. +When ashore, cooking breakfast, Koloko and her husband, with uncles +and aunts, and men and women from the village, came down. The +two former were going to Maiva, and the crowd followed to see them embark +in one of the large Maiva canoes. After the bamboo pipe had been +passed all round, the embarkation took place, men and women weeping +as if taking a final farewell.</p> +<p>When they had gone, we told the people we wished to sleep, and they +left us undisturbed. In the afternoon we came to Delena, where +we had right hearty welcome. They are truly glad we are going +to Motumotu, as they fear an attack, and hope our visit will benefit +them. They feel sure Motumotu will receive us well, and seeing +that I specially visit them, they say it will be all right. The +crews feel encouraged, and are at present ashore feasting on dugong, +sago, and betel-nuts. Some have been off for tobacco, and are +<!-- page 152--><a name="page152"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 152</span>now +laughing at the folly of their friends. The sorcerer is not in +Delena; but even he would do nothing to prevent our going on. +We are all ready to start with a land breeze. The crews have sent +us word, “When you wish to start, call out; you will see us gladly +spring into the water.”</p> +<p>On leaving Delena with a light breeze and pulling, we reached the +Kaveri beach near Cape Possession, about eight a.m. When near +Maiva, we met a Motumotu canoe. At first they were afraid to come +alongside of us, but after a little talk we got near them, exchanged +presents, and were soon friends. They seem glad we are going to +their home; they say peace will be arranged. The Motumotu have +said that if we only were to visit them, they would gladly make peace.</p> +<p>It seems that they are very badly off for <i>uros</i> (earthenware +pots), and the native tribes along the coast to the west of them are +crying out and blaming them for the scarcity. They are certainly +blaming the right party; but for Motumotu, the Pari, Vapukori, Port +Moresby, Boliapata, and Boera trading canoes would all have been down +the coast last season. The principal man in the canoe, knowing +that all, except our boatman, Bob Samoa, had friends at Motumotu, made +friends with him, rubbing noses and handing his lime gourd, which is +to be shown on arrival, and his father and friends will receive Bob +as his friends. They go on to Lolo in quest of <i>uros</i>.</p> +<p><!-- page 153--><a name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 153</span>We +landed to cook food. On awaking from a sleep, I was astonished +to find a crowd of natives close by, and my friend the Kaveri chief, +Arana, sitting near me. Two boys, who were on the beach fishing, +seeing us land, ran inland and reported, and he, with two of his wives +carrying food, followed by men and women from the villages, came down. +His two wives are now busy cooking, and he is trying to persuade me +to call on our return and get his present of sago and food. I +could not promise, and he seemed disappointed.</p> +<p>We left the Kaveri beach and pulled round Cape Possession, passing +close in by Oiapu. A heavy sea was rolling in, and a canoe putting +off to us was swamped. People running along the beach called on +Piri and me by name to land and feast, but our crews were too frightened, +and we went on. When off Jokea, men, women, and children all came +on to the beach, and also by name begged of us to land. We would +have done so here, but the sea was too high, breaking with great force +on the fringing reef. Several canoes put off, but only one succeeded +in reaching us. They begged of us to call on our return, and let +them know the result of our visit, and said we had better also visit +Lese. They think our visit will put all straight. Motumotu, +they say, is very undecided as to what to do, but having heard that +I was to visit them, put off the decision for some time, saying, “If +he comes, it will be all right, and we shall have peace, but—” +Well, they did not know. They rub noses all round, <!-- page 154--><a name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 154</span>and +make for the shore, we for the harbour at the mouth of Coombes River, +but a very heavy sea running in, we prefer anchoring outside at midnight.</p> +<p>By five a.m. up anchor, and away to Lese. Two Naima canoes +returning from Lolo, where they had been trying to get <i>uros</i>, +passed close to us. They also are glad of the likelihood of peace +and <i>uros</i>. At seven, we got to Lese, and were met by an +excited crowd, the majority armed. We anchored a little out, and +would allow no canoes alongside. I called out for Eeka, and a +very old man walked into the sea, when I went ashore and took him by +the hand. Piri and his wife followed, with part of the crew and +the Boera and Port Moresby chiefs. We were led to the village, +the crowd increasing as we went along. Piri noticing an enclosed +place, went in to see what it was, and called me to have a look. +I went in, but no women or youths followed. Inside were two large +houses, with rows of masks and hats, the latter like small canoes, about +ten feet long, made with very light wood and native cloth. On +coming out I was seized by the hand by an elderly man, who, in a towering +passion, drew me on. All I could make out was that somebody was +a thief and a liar. The Boera chief ran up, and I asked him what +was wrong. “Oh, this is your friend, Semese, the chief you +gave the present to when you were last here, and he is angry with Eeka +for taking you away.”</p> +<p>“Tell Piri to come up quickly.”</p> +<p><!-- page 155--><a name="page155"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 155</span>“Piri, +go with Eeka as your friend; give him a present as such; it is all right. +I go with Semese.”</p> +<p>Soon squatting on the platform, wrath fled, and I had to wait to +be fed.</p> +<p>“But, Semese, I want to press on to Motumotu and see them. +I am afraid of the weather coming on bad.”</p> +<p>“Motumotu to-morrow, Lese to-day; you must have a pig.”</p> +<p>“Leave the pig for another visit.”</p> +<p>All was of no avail. A fine pig was speared, brought and laid +at my feet. Semese and the people were in the very best humour. +Eeka was delighted with Piri, and the latter had a pig presented to +him. We gave our presents, and, feeling tired, I suggested to +our friends that we had better take the pigs to the other side of the +entrance, to Macey Lagoon. Semese is quite agreeable, now the +peace is made, and it was arranged that he and his party should visit +me with sago at Port Moresby. Both pigs, ready for cooking, were +carried into the boat, and the excited crowd, this time all unarmed, +were on the shore to see us off. They promised not to molest Kabadi +again, and that they considered our visit as peace with all the coast +villages.</p> +<p>Macey Lagoon would make a splendid harbour for small vessels, very +large vessels not being able to cross the bar. On the eastern +side, a bank runs out for nearly a mile, on which the sea breaks; close +in <!-- page 156--><a name="page156"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 156</span>by +western shore is a good passage. The great work of the day was +feasting and sleeping. There were two Lese men with us, and they +said that the Motumotu have been talking of war, not of peace; but now +it may be different. To get into Motumotu in the morning, we had +come to within two miles of the village, and we anchored off. +Notwithstanding some anxiety, soon all were asleep. The natives +were astonished at the beautiful weather, and said they felt as if all +would be right—the great and good Spirit who had led us so far +and safely would not leave us now or on the morrow. At every meal +on board or ashore they asked a blessing, and our old friend Hula prayed +with real earnest feelings. He was certainly in earnest to-night +when he prayed for the Motumotuans, and that our visit might be blessed +to them. I was charmed with his simplicity, fervour, and expectancy.</p> +<p>This old man, a few weeks before, at the close of a meeting at Port +Moresby, said, addressing <i>us</i>—</p> +<p>“Listen, you think we Motumotuans are not attending to your +words; but you are mistaken. Before you came here, we were always +fighting and were a terror to all, east and west, but now it is different. +We are at peace all round; we go about unarmed, and sleep well at night. +Soon our fathers’ ancient customs will be given up, and you will +see us, old and young, coming to be taught the word of the great and +good Spirit.”</p> +<p><!-- page 157--><a name="page157"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 157</span>I +was aroused about two a.m. by shouting, and, looking over the gunwale, +saw a large double fighting canoe alongside of Piri’s boat, in +which all were sound asleep. On awaking, they were startled by +the appearance. They were asked by those on the bridge—</p> +<p>“Who are you?”</p> +<p>“Tamate and Piri going to Motumotu.”</p> +<p>Soon all were friends, chewing betel-nut and smoking tobacco. +On each canoe with paddles were over thirty men, and on the bridge adjoining +the canoes were armed men and a large supply of sago and betel-nuts. +They were going to Lese to purchase <i>uros</i>. They came alongside +of our boat, received and gave presents, and then an order was given +by one from the bridge, and away they went at full speed. It was +a pretty sight in the moonlight to see the canoe move swiftly on, when +nearly eight paddles as one touched the water. We rolled ourselves +up again for another hour or two’s sleep.</p> +<p>At sis a.m. we weighed anchor, and were off to Motumotu. There +was a great crowd on the beach; but it was all right, as boys and girls +were to be seen there, as noisy as the grown-up folks. A chief +rushed into the water, and called on us to come. “Come, +with peace from afar; come, friends, and you will meet us as friends.” +We went round and entered the river in deep water, close to eastern +bank near to the village. Until we had a talk, I would <!-- page 158--><a name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 158</span>allow +none but Piri’s friend and my friends, Semese and Rahe, near the +boats. They had been told that we were going to fight if they +visited us, and that all women and children were to be sent back to +the Keiara, and the Keiari fighting men were to be in league with all +the foreigners about. Then they heard that I had been murdered, +and were terribly sorry; but now they saw I was alive, and had come +a long way in a “moon” in which neither they nor their forefathers +had ever travelled. So now they must make peace.</p> +<p>I said, “You must not again go near Kabadi, and all along the +coast we must have peace.”</p> +<p>“It is right, we shall not again visit Kabadi. Lealea +feasted us with pigs, and pressed us to attack Kabadi, to pay off an +old attack on them. It suited us, because Kabadi thought themselves +strong; but now it is peace.”</p> +<p>I landed with them, and went up through the villages, then returning +to the boats we were told to remain there. Shortly three pigs +were brought, and our return presents of <i>uros</i>, etc., were carried +off. Bob’s calabash has brought him a host of friends. +Piri is with his friends at one end of the village, and in the opposite +I am to reside in my friend Rahe’s <i>dubu</i>. Semese is +his father, and a very old man. The number of old men and old +women and children is astonishing. No enemy dare come near their +villages, and their <!-- page 159--><a name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 159</span>houses +have never been burnt down. The Boera chief—a capital fellow +to have—speaks this dialect very fluently. Our people at +first were very much afraid, but soon settled down, and are now roving +about.</p> +<p>Suddenly the war-horn was heard blowing—not the pig-horn, so +often heard on the coast. I wondered what was up, but it turned +out to be only the youth training. Two new double canoes came +down the river with large complements of paddles, all young lads, gaily +dressed. A number of young men, painted and extravagantly dressed, +have been here; they lately killed some Moveavans, and are hence greatly +admired by old and young.</p> +<p>I had to take off my boots and socks, and allow my feet to be admired, +also to show off my chest. All shout with delight, and every new +arrival must have a look. The sun was frightfully hot. Some +men were fishing on the breakers; they had a long post, with a cross-bar, +on which they stand, fixed in the sand, head covered with native cloth, +and bow and arrow ready.</p> +<p>A number of people came in from Vailala. They wish I would +go down with them, but it is too late to go so far in an open boat. +I have had another meeting with the leading men, and I think all is +now peace. My friend Rahe seems a great personage, with relatives +innumerable. He wants to know if I would like to be alone in the +<i>dubu</i>; only say it, and all the <!-- page 160--><a name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 160</span>men +will leave. I prefer them remaining, and I will make myself comfortable +on the front platform.</p> +<p>In the evening, men and women—I suppose <i>they</i> would say +“elegantly dressed”—bodies besmeared with red pigment, +croton and <i>dracæna</i> leaves, and feathers of various birds +fixed on head, arms, and legs, paraded the villages. At present +all move about armed, and in this establishment bows, bent and unbent, +and bundles of arrows are on all sides.</p> +<p>Rahe has just been to me to ask for boat medicine.</p> +<p>“What do you mean, Rahe?”</p> +<p>“I want you to give me some of that medicine you use to make +your boat sail.”</p> +<p>“I use no medicine, only Motu strong arms.”</p> +<p>“You could never have come along now without medicine.”</p> +<p>“We use no medicine, and have come along well.”</p> +<p>I had a splendid night’s rest. My mosquito-net and blanket +caused great amusement. My attendants are innumerable and attentive, +and will allow no noise near. Our service in the morning was very +noisy—everybody anxious for quiet must needs tell his neighbour +to be quiet. Our old Port Moresby chief prayed in the Motumotu +dialect. The Boera chief translated for Piri and me. They +are very anxious to know of the resurrection and where Beritane spirits +go after death.</p> +<p>In the afternoon we held service in the main street. The singing +attracted a very large and noisy crowd <!-- page 161--><a name="page161"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 161</span>but +when our old friend began to pray it was as if a bomb-shell had exploded, +men, women, and children running as for dear life to their homes. +Another hymn brought them back, armed and unarmed. We had a long +talk on peace, and they wished I would go with them to Moveave, and +make peace. One division of these villages they have simply wiped +out. I asked them to leave Moveave alone, and when a fit season +comes I will ascend the river with them, and make peace.</p> +<p>I have visited the party who last week killed several of the Moveavans, +and they promised not to attack them again. The Kaback jewellery +is about in abundance.</p> +<p>Semese spoke nearly all the night through, exhorting all to peace, +and that now we had visited them they ought no more to go about exalting +themselves, fighting with their neighbours, and speaking evil of their +friends, the Motuans. Rahe has brought his son, whom he has named +Tamate. I have no doubt he will be an expensive honour.</p> +<p>We went up the William River to-day. At mouth, on the west +side, are two islands, viz., Iriho and Biaveveka. Between the +latter and the mainland is an entrance into Alice Meade Harbour. +The river is broad and deep. Both banks are lined with sago palms.</p> +<p>When a young man marries a young woman, the custom here is to pay +nothing for her; but for a <!-- page 162--><a name="page162"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 162</span>widow +something very great. The people live chiefly on sago. Sago +is cooked with shell-fish, boiled with bananas, roasted on stones, baked +in the ashes, tied up in leaves, and many other ways. We have +received large presents of sago, both boats bearing as much as is safe +to carry. We leave in the morning. At present a man is going +through the streets in great wrath, having been to his plantation and +missed a bunch of bananas. As he moves along he shouts out his +loss, and challenges the thief.</p> +<p>We had a gathering of old men until late into the night, and they +closed with a wail, chanted, with drums keeping time. Hours before +daylight Semese was up, waiting for me to turn out.</p> +<p>We had a fine run back to Yule, where, at sunset, we were met by +a terrific gale of wind and a thunderstorm. We had to put in close +to the land, and for four hours sit it out in a deluge of rain. +It was soon inky dark, the lightning very vivid, and the thunder deafening. +Piri’s boat anchored close alongside. On the weather clearing +up a little, we crossed Hall Sound to Delena, where we were soon met +by natives carrying torches, and were led to their houses. A change +of clothing, and we were all as comfortable as possible.</p> +<p>We spent the hour of midnight with Kone and Levas, chiefs of Delena, +telling them of our visit to the west, and its success in establishing +peace. They were greatly delighted, and will do me the honour +of <!-- page 163--><a name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 163</span>visiting +me at Port Moresby, that is, will relieve me of some tomahawks. +With a light wind and a smooth sea, we had a pleasant run to Boera, +where we arrived at sunset. There was great joy in the village +at our arrival.</p> +<p>We reached Port Moresby on the 20th, and on March 6th we baptized +Kohu and Rahela, the first two women of New Guinea converted to Christianity. +May they be kept as true ministering women for Christ!</p> +<h2><!-- page 164--><a name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 164</span>CHAPTER +V. THE KALO MASSACRE.</h2> +<p>Twelve teachers and their friends killed at Kalo in 1881—The +warning—The massacre—The fear for the teachers at Koma—Mr. +Chalmers’s views on the question—Voyage westwards in the +<i>Mayri</i>—A Sunday at Delena—Visit of Queen Koloka—Threatened +attack by Lolo natives—The fight—Peace—Miria’s +village—Bad character of the Motu natives—Visit to the chief +of Motu Lavao—Story of Dr. Thorngren’s murder—Peace +made with the village.</p> +<p>On the 7th of March, 1881, the natives of Kalo, a village at the +head of Hood Bay, near the mouth of the Kemp Welch River, massacred +their teacher, Anederea, with his wife and two children; also Materua, +teacher of Kerepunu, his wife and two children; Taria, teacher of Hula; +Matatuhi, an inland teacher; and two Hula boys—in all, twelve +persons.</p> +<p>The earliest news of the tragedy was given in the following letter +from the Rev. T. Beswick, dated Thursday Island, Torres Straits, March +24th:—</p> +<blockquote><p>On Friday, the 4th inst., Taria, our Hula teacher, left +Port Moresby with Matatuhi, an inland teacher, the latter wishing to +visit the Kalo teacher for some native medicine. Reaching Hula +on the evening of the 4th, Taria heard a rumour that the Kalo people +intended to kill their teacher and his family. Accordingly he +went thither the following day, along with <!-- page 165--><a name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 165</span>Matatuhi, +and requested the Kalo teacher and his family to leave at once. +The teacher refused to place credence in the rumour, and even questioned +his chief and pretended friend, who assured him that there was not the +slightest grain of truth in the rumour.</p> +<p>The Hula teacher returned, leaving Matatuhi behind. On Monday, +the 7th, Taria, along with five Hula boys, proceeded in a boat to Kalo +and Kerepunu, with the view of bringing the teachers and their families +to Hula, on account of the ill-health of some of the party. He +called at Kalo on the way thither, and apprised the teacher of his intention +to call on the return journey. At Kerepunu he took on board the +teacher, his wife and two children, and one native youth. The +party then proceeded to Kalo. During the interval of waiting there, +the chief and pretended friend of the Kalo teacher got into the boat +for a chat. On the arrival of Matatuhi and the Kalo teacher, along +with his wife and two children, the chief stepped out of the boat. +This was the pre-arranged signal for attack to the crowds assembled +on the bank. At the outset, the chief warned his followers not +to injure the Hula and Kerepunu boys; but such precaution did not prevent +two of the former being killed. The other four boys escaped by +swimming the river. The mission party were so cooped up in the +boat, and spears flew so thickly and fast, as to render resistance futile +and escape impossible. Taria resisted for a <!-- page 166--><a name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 166</span>time, +but a fourth spear put an end to his resistance. The others were +dispatched with little trouble. A single spear slew both mother +and babe in the case of both women. The only bodies recovered +were those of the Kerepunu teacher’s wife and her babe; the natives +of Hula and Kerepunu severally interred the two bodies. The rest +of the bodies became a prey to the alligators. For the two Hula +boys who were slain speedy compensation was made by the Kalo people. +The whale-boat, too, was recovered by the Hula natives.</p> +</blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/167b.jpg"> +<img alt="A Hula girl" src="images/167s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The above sad intelligence reached Port Moresby at early morn of +the 11th, just as the <i>Harriet</i> was about to leave for Thursday +Island, and the <i>Mayri</i> about to take me to Hula, whilst a party +of foreigners were leaving for the East End. The news, of course, +upset all arrangements, and, after the first moments of excitement were +over, our next concern was about the safety of the two Aroma teachers. +With as little delay as possible, but with groundless forebodings of +coming evil, a large party of us left for Aroma. About ten a.m. +of the 14th, we reached there, and whilst our three boats lay off a +little, so as not to arouse suspicion, a teacher and myself went ashore. +With devout gratitude I heard that both teachers and natives were ignorant +of the massacre. In less than an hour the two teachers and their +families were safely ensconced in their whale-boat, taking along with +them but a minimum of their property, according to the orders given. +By these means the chiefs and natives <!-- page 169--><a name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 169</span>of +Aroma were left in utter ignorance as to the cause of our erratic movements, +nor did they seem to suspect anything.</p> +<p>At Kerepunu we experienced considerable noise and worry. Here, +too, we judged it prudent to remove very little belonging to the deceased +teacher. At Hula, my house had been entered, but the few things +stolen were mostly returned. Here, too, we have left goods, until +some definite course be decided upon. Strange to say, at Hula, +where we expected the least trouble and danger, there we had the greatest; +indeed, on one or two occasions, affairs assumed a rather serious aspect. +The main idea present in the native mind was to take advantage of us +in our weakness and sorrow. After a very brief stay at Hula, we +left there on the 15th, reaching Port Moresby the following day; and +on the 17th I left for Thursday Island.</p> +<p>The natives of Hood Bay attribute this massacre to the influence +of Koapina, the Aroma chief, he having assured the Kalo people that +foreigners might be massacred with impunity, citing as an illustration +the massacre at Aroma last July, and pointing out at the same time the +great fame that had thereby accrued to his own people. The Kalo +people have not been slow in acting upon his advice. I visited +Hula and Kerepunu within six weeks of the massacre, and was so impressed +with the peaceful bearing of the people in both places that I should +have been glad to have re-occupied both stations immediately.</p> +<p><!-- page 170--><a name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 170</span>I +should have visited Kalo, but was afraid of compromising the mission, +as it is possible the natives may be punished for the outrage. +I fear we are not altogether free from blame; the teachers are often +very indiscreet in their dealings with the natives, and not over-careful +in what they say; there has also, perhaps, sometimes been a niggard +regard to expense on our part. A very few pounds spent at a station +like Kalo in the first years would, I believe, prevent much trouble, +and probably murder. The Kalo natives felt that Hula and Kerepunu +got the most tobacco and tomahawks, and that their share was small indeed. +Instead of our buying all the thatch required for the other stations—only +obtainable at Kalo—we got the teachers, with their boys, to get +it. We meant it well, to save expense. My experience teaches +me to throw all I can in the way of natives not connected with our head +station. At this station—Port Moresby—for the next +few years the expenses will be considerable in buildings, laying out +the land, and in presents to the constant stream of visitors; but it +will have a Christianizing and a civilizing effect upon a large extent +of country.</p> +<p>On the 24th of May, 1881, left Port Moresby in the <i>Mayri</i>, +and, having taken on board four natives at Boera, continued a westerly +course, anchoring next day in Hall Sound, opposite Delena. Early +on the morning of May 26th, Kone and Lavao, our old friends, came off. +They say it is useless going to <!-- page 171--><a name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 171</span>Maiva, +as we cannot land; but we can go and see for ourselves, and they will +accompany us. I had to land to eat pigs, <i>i.e</i>., receive +pigs and hand them over to my followers. On landing, they led +me up the hill at the back of village, where I was astonished to find +a fine tract of land forming a splendid position for a house. +Kone at once offered me as much land as I wanted. After thinking +it over on board, I decided on building. I landed tents, and pitched +them on the rise above the village. My experience is that places +quite exposed to south-east wind are <i>more</i> unhealthy than swampy +country. On Rarotonga there were more deaths on the windward side +of the island than on the leeward.</p> +<p>On the Sunday after landing, we went down and had service in the +village. Kone interpreted into Lolo. When telling the people +we had no work for them on Sunday, Kone said: “Oh! we know, and +we, too, are going to be <i>helaka</i> (sacred) to-morrow.” +I asked him, “Come, Kone, how do you know?” “From +Boera.” I met a lad repeating the Lord’s Prayer in +Motu, and found he had been taught by Piri. The Motu tribe has +already had great influence, and will have more and more every year. +I have an interesting class of children, and hope, before we leave, +they will know their letters well.</p> +<p>What nonsense one could write of the reception here—such as +“Everybody at service this morning listened attentively; commented +on address or conversation; <!-- page 172--><a name="page172"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 172</span>children +all come to school, so intelligent, and seemingly anxious to learn; +and, altogether, prospects are bright.” At home they would +say, why, they are being converted; see the speedy triumph! Alas! +they are but savages, pure and simple, rejoicing in the prospect of +an unlimited supply of tobacco, beads, and tomahawks.</p> +<p>Paura, a chief from Motu Lavao, is in. The people, it seems, +told him, being <i>helaka</i> day, I could not meet him, and he did +not come up hill. He is rather a nice-looking fellow, with a mild, +open countenance. Kone told him to tell the Paitana natives, who +murdered James and Thorngren, that, if they wished peace and friendship, +they must come in here and sue for it; that I could not first go to +them, as they were the offenders and murderers.</p> +<p>Arrangements were at once made for erecting a wooden house at Delena, +measuring thirty-six feet by eighteen feet, material for which was easily +procurable. On the 30th of May, Queen Koloka, her husband, and +a number of men and women came in. The Prince Consort first came +up, all over smiles, followed in half an hour by his wife and maids. +After formally receiving her, I presented Mrs. Lawes’s present. +I unloosed the parcel, and turned maid-of-honour in real waiting. +Her Majesty was chewing betel-nut, but that did not prevent my putting +the dress on; first attempt all wrong, the front became the back, and +the back the front. At length I <!-- page 173--><a name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 173</span>succeeded, +and, after fastening the dress, tied a pretty kerchief round the royal +neck. There was great excitement, in every mouth a thumb, a few +moments of silence, and then every soul spoke and shouted. It +was amusing to see her husband, uncles, maids, old men and women, young +men and maidens, gather round the royal presence, wonder and admire, +and then shout, <i>Oh misi haine O</i>! (Mrs. Lawes). Ah, Koloka, +I wonder how you are going to get out of that dress to-night; will you +understand buttons, hooks, and eyes?</p> +<p>During my stay at Delena, one of those warlike incursions by hostile +tribes so common in New Guinea took place. My presence and influence +happily brought about an early and satisfactory settlement of the dispute. +I extract the following from my journal:—</p> +<p><i>June</i> 2<i>nd</i>.—Our friends seem troubled, and their +house-building earnestness is somewhat abated. I find they have +heard that the Lolo tribe intend making a raid on them. Is it +on them, or on us? Their great hope is that we shall use our guns, +and so frighten the invaders. I tell them that we cannot do this; +that we are men of peace, and have no wish to frighten any one. +It seems Maiva is very disturbed; they are fighting all round, avenging +Oa’s death, and may soon be expected here. Maiva would not +interfere with us, but Lolo I would not trust.</p> +<p>We shall have to keep a good look-out to-night. <!-- page 174--><a name="page174"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 174</span>Our +friends seem very troubled and excited. I have given warning that +any one coming near our camp must call out my name and his or her own. +No one can come near without our knowing, as my terrier Flora is a splendid +watch-dog. This evening, some women passed camp, carrying their +valuables to hide away in the bush. Bob asks, “Suppose Lolo +natives come to us, what we do?” “Of course they will +not come near to us unless they mean to attack, and then we must defend +ourselves.” The guns are ready. It is not pleasant; +but I fancy they will not molest us, so hope to sleep well, knowing +we are well cared for by Him who is never far off. Through much +trouble we get to be known, and the purpose for which we come is understood.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/175b.jpg"> +<img alt="A Hula dandy" src="images/175s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>3<i>rd</i>.—Last night I slept lightly, with Flora on watch, +and Bob easily aroused. After midnight he kept watch. We +placed the lights beyond tents on each side, and so arranged that the +light would strike on any native nearing camp. About two a.m. +Lavao’s wife No. 2 came up with her grandchild, goods, and chattels +for safety. The Loloans were coming. All right; all ready. +Very loud, noisy talking in village. At four, we called out for +Kone, who came up telling us that we should be first disposed of, then +Delena. I went to the village, and saw the old friendly chief +from Lavao. I told him any Loloan coming over the brow of the +hill with weapons we should consider as coming to fight, and <!-- page 177--><a name="page177"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 177</span>we +were ready. At five, women and children crowded into camp, with +all their belongings, and asked for protection. Certainly; we +shall do what we can for them. Men are running all about, planting +arms in convenient places in the bush. We are told to keep a good +look-out—and that we shall. It is now daylight, so we do +not care much. The fight has begun in the village. Some +Loloans, running after Delena natives, rush uphill; we warn them back, +and they retire. There is a loud shout for us to go to the village +and fight. I leave Bob with guns and cartridges to keep watch +over camp. I have more confidence in the skirmish unarmed, and +have no wish for the savages to think I have come to fight. I +shout out <i>Maino</i>, and soon there is a hush in the terrible storm. +I am allowed to walk through the village, disarm one or two, and, on +my return to our friend Kone’s end of the village, he whispers +to me, “There is Arua,” understanding him to mean the chief, +or <i>vata tauna</i> (sorcerer). I recognize in him the man introduced +to me on a former visit, and who in wrath cleared out from my presence. +Now might be his time to pay me out. I take his weapons from him, +link him on to me, and walk him up the hill. I speak kindly to +him, show him flag, and tell him we are <i>maino</i>, and warn him that +his people must on no account ascend the hill. All right, he will +stop the fighting. I sit down to write this, when again they rush +up for me, saying Kone <!-- page 178--><a name="page178"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 178</span>was +to be killed. Leaving Bob with arms in charge, I go down to the +village, and without my hat. More canoes have arrived. What +a crowd of painted fiends! I get surrounded, and have no way of +escape. Sticks and spears rattle round. I get a knock on +the head, and a piece of stick falls on my hand. My old Lavao +friend gets hold of me and walks me to outskirt. Arua and Lauma +of Lolo assure me they will not ascend the hill, and we had better not +interfere with them. “Right, friend; but you must stop, +and on no account injure my friend Kone.” It would frighten +them were we to go armed to the village; but then we dare not stay here +twenty-four hours after. I can do more for the natives unarmed. +I am glad I am able to mix with both parties; it shows they mean us +no harm, and speaks well for the future. No one was killed, but +several were severely wounded, and a few houses destroyed. They +have made peace at last, and I have had a meeting in the village with +all; the Loloans have promised to be quiet. I told them we could +not stay if they were to be constantly threatening. In the afternoon +the chiefs came up, and I promised to visit them all. My head +aches a little. Had I been killed, I alone should have been to +blame, and not the natives. The Delena natives say: “Well, +Tamate, had you not been here, many of us would have been killed, and +the remainder gone to Naara, never to return.” There is +some pleasure in being of a little use even to savages.</p> +<p><!-- page 179--><a name="page179"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 179</span>The +next Sunday we had a splendid service. All the young fellows dressed +for it by painting their faces. It was amusing and interesting +to hear them interpret all I said from Motuan into Loloan; and when +I attempted to use a Lolo word, they corrected me if I wrongly pronounced +or misplaced it. After service we had all the children and young +men to school. A goodly number have got a pretty fair hold of +letters. Some would beat native cloth, and Kone grew very angry, +and, because they would not listen to him, threatened to pull up his +recently buried child. I sent word that he must on no account +do that, and must say no more to the men beating cloth; that by-and-by +the people will become enlightened, and then they will understand the +Sabbath. Poor Kone’s idea is that now and at once they should +understand.</p> +<p>On June 6th, I once more left Delena to proceed to Maiva, and, although +a heavy sea was running at the time, landed safely about eleven a.m. +at Miria’s village, on the Maiva coast. I saw a number of +people with <i>karevas</i> (long fighting sticks), and wondered what +was the matter. I said to my old friend Rua, who met me on the +beach, “Are you going to fight?” “No, no; it +is all right now.” I gave him a large axe for Meauri and +party to cut wood for a house at their village. Meauri and a number +of followers soon made their appearance: it seemed strange that they +should have come down so soon. Miria, the <!-- page 180--><a name="page180"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 180</span>chief, +being away cutting wood, went to Meauri’s village, passing through +several seaside villages. We selected a new position for the house, +at the back of a large temple; gave them tobacco and red cloth, they +promising gladly to have wood cut against my next return. Sitting +on the platform, Rua turned to me and asked, “Tamate, who is your +real Maiva friend?” Fancying there was trouble, I replied, +“Oa Maoni, who sleeps in that house in death, was my friend: Meauri, +Rua, Paru, and Aua are now my friends.” “I thought +so, and Miria has no business to build a house for you. Before +we saw the boat we were down on the beach at Miria’s village to +begin a quarrel; we saw you were coming, and we waited for you.” +“But I want a house on the coast as well as inland; Miria’s +village is small and too exposed, and I must look for another place.” +“That is all right; but this first.” “Be it +so.” After visiting three villages I had not seen before, +and going through all the inland ones, I returned to Miria’s village; +he not having returned, I went along to Ereere. After dark, Miria +came in. He felt sorry when I told him I could not put a house +up in his place, owing to its being exposed to south-east wind, and +to there not being many people. “But I have cut the wood.” +“I shall pay you for that, and the wood can remain for my return.” +I gave him tobacco for the young men and a present to himself, and all +was right.</p> +<p>A few mornings later, I found the natives sitting <!-- page 181--><a name="page181"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 181</span>round +rice; one said, “Come, we are waiting for you to bless the food.” +They have seen our boats’ crews of Botu and Boera natives always +asking a blessing. I said to them, “Cannot one of you ask +a blessing?”</p> +<p>“No; wait until we learn, and you will see.” A +good story is told by the captain of the <i>Mayri</i>. Oa their +going to Aroma to relieve the teachers after the Kalo massacre, in the +early morning they were pulling along the reef, and just as the sun +appeared over the mountains, one of the Motu crew called on all to be +quiet, rowers to lean on their oars, and then engaged in prayer, thanking +God for watching over them during the night, and praying that He would +care for them during the day, and that no unpleasantness might occur +with the Aroma natives. All along this coast, and right away down +to Elema as far as Bald Head, the Motu tribe has a wonderful influence, +and in a few years excellent pioneers may be had from it. They +must have been a terrible lot in the past. I have heard much from +themselves of piracy, murder, and robbery, and all along here they tell +terrible tales. A Motu chief in one of our meetings, speaking +of the past and the present, concluded by saying: “Since the arrival +of the foreigners (teachers), we have changed and will continue to change.”</p> +<p>An old chief, Aiio, from the Mekeo district, came in to see me, and +brought me as a present a splendid head-dress, which is hung up by Kone +in front of the <!-- page 182--><a name="page182"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 182</span>tent +for all to see. On giving him a present of salt, it was pleasant +to see the old fellow’s expression of pleasure. He is anxious +I should go inland as soon as possible; I tell him I must wait for tomahawks.</p> +<p>At seven o’clock on the morning of the 13th of June, I started +to visit Madu, the chief of the Motu Lavao. We went up from the +bight, a large saltwater creek, with dense mangrove on both banks,—a +veritable bed of fever,—and anchoring our boats, we walked through +the deserted village of Paitana and on for about a mile and a half to +Motu Lavao. The path leads along a narrow tract of good country, +with dense swamps on both sides. The village is large, with good +houses kept nice and clean; but I can conceive of no more unhealthy +locality—swamp all around. A number of people were down +with fever, some in their houses, others lying exposed to the sun. +I asked them if they had no <i>vatavata</i> (spirits) knocking around +in their district, and did they not much trouble them. “Oh, +trouble us much, very much.” I told them I thought so, and +the sooner they removed from that place the better—that they were +right in the centre of sickness and death. They said, “And +what is to become of the place of our forefathers, and the cocoanuts +they planted?” “Better leave them, or in a short time +there will be none left to remember their forefathers, or eat their +cocoanuts.” Madu was in the country, and we waited his return. +He tried hard to get me to stay over-night, but it <!-- page 183--><a name="page183"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 183</span>was +of no use. He presented me with a pig and feathers, and we concluded +friendship by my giving a return present. An old woman was presented +to me, a great sorceress; but, not liking the sisterhood, I did not +see my way clear to give her a present. Such as she keep the natives +in constant fear, do what they like, and get what they like. It +is affirmed by all that the great Lolo sorcerer, Arua, keeps snakes +in bamboos, and uses them for his nefarious purposes. Late in +the afternoon we left, accompanied by Madu and a number of youths carrying +pig, cocoanuts, and sugar-cane. When leaving, the chief said, +“Go, Tamate; we are friends.”</p> +<p>On June 14th, I had a long conference with the old Paitana chief, +Boutu, and his followers. They looked very much excited and alarmed +when I met them, but that wore away during our conversation. Boutu, +his party, and other Lolo natives assured me that the attack on Dr. +James and Mr. Thorngren was unknown to all but those in the canoe. +The excuse was that the day before they were trading on Yule Island +one young man had feathers for sale. Dr. James and Waunaea told +him to leave; they would not take his feathers because he objected to +the pearl shell produced. This, they say, was the beginning. +He tried very hard to sell his feathers, and, if possible, get a tomahawk. +Failing, he went home, quietly arranged a party, slept in the bush, +and before daylight went off to the vessel. On nearing <!-- page 184--><a name="page184"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 184</span>the +vessel, Dr. James called out—“You must not come alongside: +you are coming to kill me.” They said, “We are not +going to kill you, but want to sell yams.” The yams were +taken on board, and whilst Dr. James was counting the beads to pay for +them he was struck with a club, and afterwards speared, but not quite +disabled, as he drew his revolver and shot the man who attacked him. +Mr. Thorngren was struck at from aft, fell overboard, and was never +again seen. They say, when the people in the village heard of +it, they were very sorry, and that ever since they have been looked +upon with anger, as they have been the cause of keeping the white man +away with his tobacco, beads, and tomahawks. I asked them, “What +now?” “Let us make friends, and never again have the +like.” “But your young men could do the same again +without your knowing.” “They know better than try +it again; they are too much afraid; and they see that what was then +done has greatly injured us as well as all the other villages.” +I explained to them the object of our coming here, and that they must +not think we are to buy everything they bring, and must not be angry +when we refuse to give what they demand. We do not come to steal +their food or curios, and, if we do not want them, they can carry all +back; we are not traders. After praying with them, they said, +“Tamate, now let it be friendship; give up your intention of going +to Mekeo (inland district), and come <!-- page 185--><a name="page185"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 185</span>to-morrow, +and we shall make friends and peace.” “I shall go; +but suppose the mother of the young man who was shot begins wailing, +what then?” “She will doubtless wail, but you need +not fear; come, and you will see.” “Then to-morrow +I shall go.”</p> +<p>Next morning, the <i>Mayri</i> having arrived the evening before, +I carried into effect the intended visit. The chief of Paitana +and two followers, with my friend Lauma, of Lolo, waited to accompany +me. After breakfast we got into the boat, Lavao in charge. +We entered the same creek as for Motu Lavao, and when up it some distance +turned up another to the right, too narrow to use oars. When two +miles up we anchored boat, then walked or waded for two miles through +swamp and long grass. When near the village we heard loud wailing, +and Lavao, who was leading, thought it better we should wait for the +old chief, who was some distance behind. On coming up they spoke +in Lolo, then threw down his club, calling on one of his followers to +pick it up. He went in front, and called on me to follow close +to him, the others coming after; and so we marched into the village +and up on to his platform. Then began speechifying, presenting +cooked food, betel-nuts, pig, and feathers. When all was finished +I gave my present, and said a few words in the Motu dialect. The +uncle of the man shot by Dr. James came on to the platform, caught me +by the arm and <!-- page 186--><a name="page186"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 186</span>shouted, +<i>Maino</i>! (peace), saying that they, the chiefs, knew nothing of +the attack. The murderers lived at the other end of the village; +and thither, accompanied by a large party, I went. They gave me +a pig, and I gave them a return present. The real murderer of +Mr. Thorngren sat near me, dressed for the occasion, and four others +who were in the canoe stood near the platform. The mother and +two widows were in the house opposite, but with good sense refrained +from wailing. I spoke to them of the meanness and treachery of +attacking as they attacked Dr. James and Mr. Thorngren. They say +there were ten in the canoe—one was shot, three have since died, +and six remain. They also say they feel they have done wrong, +as they not only made the foreigners their enemies, but also all the +tribes around were angry with them. “What now, then?” +“Oh, <i>maino</i> (peace) it must be; we are friends, and so are +all foreigners now.” “I am not a trader, but have +come to teach about the only one true God and His love to us all in +the gift of His Son Jesus Christ, to proclaim peace between man and +man, and tribe and tribe.” What seemed to astonish them +most was my being alone and unarmed. After some time, our old +friend came from the other end of the village and hurried us away. +It was time to leave them, so, giving a few parting presents, we picked +up our goods and away to the boat.</p> +<h2><!-- page 187--><a name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 187</span>CHAPTER +V. EAST CAPE IN 1878 AND IN 1882</h2> +<p>Original state of the natives—War and cannibalism—How +the mission work has been carried on—A Sunday at East Cape in +1882—Twenty-one converts baptized—A blight prospect.</p> +<p>In 1878, missionary work was begun at East Capes, and four years +after the establishment of that mission, on a review of the past, what +evidences of progress were to be seen! There were signs of light +breaking in upon the long dark night of heathenism. Looking at +the condition of this people when the missionaries and teachers first +landed, what did they find? A people sunk in crime that to them +has become a custom and religion—a people in whom murder is the +finest art, and who from their earliest years study it. Disease, +sickness, and death have all to be accounted for. They know nothing +of malaria, filth, or contagion. Hence they hold that an enemy +causes these things, and friends have to see that due punishment is +made. The large night firefly helps to point in the direction +of that enemy, or the spirits of departed ones are called in through +spiritists’ influence to come and assist, and the medium pronouncing +a neighbouring tribe guilty, the time is near when that tribe will <!-- page 188--><a name="page188"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 188</span>be +visited and cruel deeds done. They know nothing of a God of Love—only +gods and spirits who are ever revengeful, and must be appeased; who +fly about in the night and disturb the peace of homes. It is gross +darkness and cruelty, brother’s hand raised against brother’s. +Great is the chief who claims many skulls; and the youth, who may wear +a jawbone as an armlet is to be admired.</p> +<p>When we first landed here, the natives lived only to fight, and the +victory was celebrated by a cannibal feast. It is painfully significant +to find that the only field in which New Guinea natives have shown much +skill and ingenuity is in the manufacture of weapons. One of these +is known as a Man-catcher, and was invented by the natives of Hood Bay, +but all over the vast island this loop of rattan cane is the constant +companion of head-hunters. The peculiarity of the weapon is the +deadly spike inserted in the handle.</p> +<p>The <i>modus operandi</i> is as follows:—The loop is thrown +over the unhappy wretch who is in retreat, and a vigorous pull from +the brawny arm of the vengeful captor jerks the victim upon the spike, +which (if the weapon be deftly handled) penetrates the body at the base +of the brain, or, if lower down, in the spine, in either case inflicting +a death-wound.</p> +<p>All these things are changed, or in process of change. For +several years there have been no cannibal ovens, no desire for skulls. +Tribes that could not formerly meet but to fight, now meet as friends, +and sit side by <!-- page 189--><a name="page189"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 189</span>side +in the same house worshipping the true God. Men and women who, +on the arrival of the mission, sought the missionaries’ lives, +are only anxious now to do what they can to assist them, even to the +washing of their feet. How the change came about is simply by +the use of the same means as those acted upon in many islands of the +Pacific. The first missionaries landed not only to preach the +Gospel of Divine love, but also to live it, and to show to the savage +a more excellent way than theirs. Learning the language, mixing +freely with them, showing kindnesses, receiving the same, travelling +with them, differing from them, making friends, assisting them in their +trading, and in every way making them feel that their good only was +sought. They thought at first that we were compelled to leave +our own land because of hunger!</p> +<p>Teachers were placed amongst the people; many sickened and died. +There was a time of great trial, but how changed is everything now! +Four years pass on, and, in 1882, we visit them. We left Port +Moresby, and arrived at East Cape on a Sunday. Morning service +was finished, and, from the vessel, we saw a number of natives well +dressed, standing near the mission house, waiting to receive us. +The teachers came off, and with them several lads, neatly dressed. +After hearing from them of the work, and of how the people were observing +the Sabbath, we landed, and were met by a quiet, orderly company of +<!-- page 190--><a name="page190"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 190</span>men, +women, and boys, who welcomed us as real friends. The first to +shake hands with us was a chief from the opposite side of the bay, who +in early days gave us much trouble, and had to be well watched. +Now he was dressed, and his appearance much altered. It was now +possible to meet him and feel he was a friend. We found Pi Vaine +very ill, and not likely to live long; yet she lived long enough to +rejoice in the glorious success of the Gospel of Christ, and to see +many of those for whom she laboured profess Christianity. We were +astonished, when we met in the afternoon, at the orderly service—the +nice well-tuned singing of hymns, translated by the teacher, and the +attention, when he read a chapter in Mark’s Gospel—translated +by him from the Rarotongan into the dialect of the place. When +he preached to them, all listened attentively, and seemed to be anxious +not to forget a single word. Two natives prayed with great earnestness +and solemnity. After service all remained, and were catechised +on the sermon, and then several present stood up and exhorted their +friends to receive the Gospel. Many strangers were present, and +they were exhorted to come as often as possible and hear the good news. +Then, again, others offered prayers. We found that numbers came +in on the Saturday with food and cooking-pots, and remained until Monday +morning. They lived with the teachers, and attended all the services, +beginning with a prayer-meeting on Saturday night.</p> +<p><!-- page 191--><a name="page191"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 191</span>During +our stay of a few days, they all remained at the station, and we saw +much of them. The teachers said there were twenty-one who professed +faith in Christ and had given up heathenism and desired baptism. +We visited further on to the east, and we were a week away on our return +to East Cape, and after close examination of each candidate we decided +to baptize them on the following Tuesday. The service was most +interesting, and well attended by persons from various places. +At night we examined the children and grown-up people who attend school, +and were much pleased with them. A few can read in the Motu dialect; +others know how to put letters together and form words. We hope +soon to have one or two books in their own dialect. Of those baptized +several are anxious to be instructed, that they may be better fitted +to do work for Christ amongst their own countrymen. Already they +hold services, and exhort in other villages, and when travelling they +do all the good they can to others.</p> +<p>We are in hopes soon to receive a number of young men and women at +Port Moresby, and begin our Institution, to be called “The New +Guinea Institution for Training Evangelists.” At present +we shall proceed quickly, building native houses for students, and a +class room to be bought in the colonies, towards which our true friends +in North Adelaide contribute largely.</p> +<p>The harvest ripens fast: where shall we look for <!-- page 192--><a name="page192"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 192</span>labourers? +The Master has said, “Pray.” May they soon be sent! +The light is shining, the darkness is breaking, and the thick clouds +are moving, and the hidden ones are being gathered in. We have +already plucked the first flowers; stern winter yields, and soon we +shall have the full spring, the singing of birds, and the trees in full +blossom. Hasten it, O Lord, we plead!</p> +<p>LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STREET +AND CHARING CROSS.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES IN NEW GUINEA***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 17694-h.htm or 17694-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/7/6/9/17694 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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