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+<title>Adventures in New Guinea</title>
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+<h2>
+<a href="#startoftext">Adventures in New Guinea, by James Chalmers</a>
+</h2>
+<pre>
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Adventures in New Guinea, by James Chalmers
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Adventures in New Guinea
+
+
+Author: James Chalmers
+
+
+
+Release Date: February 6, 2006 [eBook #17694]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES IN NEW GUINEA***
+</pre>
+<p><a name="startoftext"></a></p>
+<p>Transcribed from the 1886 Religious Tract Society edition by David
+Price, email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk</p>
+<p>THE R. T. S. LIBRARY&mdash;ILLUSTRATED</p>
+<h1>ADVENTURES IN NEW GUINEA<br />
+by<br />
+JAMES CHALMERS<br />
+of port moresby</h1>
+<p>WITH SIX ILLUSTRATIONS</p>
+<p>THE RELIGIOUS TRACT SOCIETY<br />
+<span class="smcap">56, Paternoster Row; 65, St. Paul&rsquo;s Churchyard;<br />
+and 164, Piccadilly<br />
+</span>1886.</p>
+<p><!-- page 4--><a name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 4</span><span class="smcap">london:<br />
+printed by william clowes and sons, limited,<br />
+stamford street and charing cross</span>.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/titleb.jpg">
+<img alt="Port Moresby" src="images/titles.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2><!-- page 7--><a name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 7</span>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+<p>Public attention has been repeatedly and prominently directed to
+New Guinea during the last few months.&nbsp; The name often appears
+in our newspapers and missionary reports, and bids fair to take a somewhat
+prominent place in our blue-books.&nbsp; Yet very few general readers
+possess accurate information about the island itself, about the work
+of English missionaries there, or about the part New Guinea seems destined
+to play in Australian politics.&nbsp; Hence a brief sketch indicating
+the present state of knowledge on these points will be a fitting introduction
+to the narratives of exploration, of adventure, and of Christian work
+contained in this volume.</p>
+<p>New Guinea, if we may take Australia as a continent, is the largest
+island in the world, being, roughly speaking, about 1400 miles long,
+and 490 broad at its widest point.&nbsp; Its northernmost coast nearly
+touches the equator, and its southernmost stretches down to 11&deg;
+south latitude.&nbsp; Little more than the fringe or coastline of the
+island has been at all carefully explored, but it is known to possess
+magnificent mountain ranges, vast stretches of beautiful scenery, much
+land that is fruitful, even under native cultivation, and mighty rivers
+that take their rise far inland.&nbsp; Its savage <!-- page 8--><a name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>inhabitants
+have aroused powerfully the interest and sympathy alike of Christian
+Polynesians and English missionaries, who, taking their lives in their
+hands, have, in not a few instances, laid them down in the effort to
+win New Guinea for Christ.</p>
+<p>At some remote period of the past, New Guinea, in all probability,
+formed a part of Australia.&nbsp; Torres Strait itself is only about
+sixty miles wide; the water is shallow; shoals and reefs abound, giving
+the sailor who threads the intricate and dangerous navigation the impression
+that he is sailing over what was once solid earth.</p>
+<p>The first European sailor who sighted the island was D&rsquo;Abreu,
+in 1511; the honour of being first to land belongs most probably to
+the Portuguese explorer, Don Jorge De Meneses, in 1526, on his way from
+Malacca to the Moluccas.</p>
+<p>Into the somewhat intricate history of the connection of the Dutch
+with the north-west coast of New Guinea we cannot here enter.&nbsp;
+As suzerain nominally under the Sultan of Tidore, they claim possession
+of the western part of the island as far east as Lat. 141&deg; 47' E.&nbsp;
+The trade they carry on is said to be worth about 20,000<i>l</i>. a
+year.&nbsp; Dutch missionaries have for many years been stationed around
+the coast of Geelvink Bay.</p>
+<p>In 1770, Captain Cook visited the south-west coast, and in 1775,
+an English officer, Forrest by name, spent some months on the north-east
+coast in search of spices.&nbsp; In 1793, New Guinea was annexed by
+two of the East <!-- page 9--><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>India
+Company&rsquo;s commanders, and an island in Geelvink Bay, Manasvari
+by name, was for a time held by their troops.</p>
+<p>Partial surveys of the south coast were made in 1845 by Captain Blackwood,
+who discovered the Fly River; by Lieutenant Yule, in 1846, who journeyed
+east as far as the island to which he has given his name; and in 1848
+by Captain Owen Stanley, who made a fairly accurate survey of the south-east
+coast.</p>
+<p>The most important survey work along the coast of New Guinea was
+done in 1873 by H.M. ship <i>Basilisk</i>, under the command of Captain
+Moresby.&nbsp; He discovered the now-famous harbour, Port Moresby; he
+laid down the true eastern coastline of the island, discovering the
+China Straits, and exploring the north-east coast as far west as Huon
+Gulf.</p>
+<p>In many parts of the world Christian missionaries have been the first
+to get on friendly terms with the natives, and thus to pave the way
+for developing the resources of a savage country and leading its inhabitants
+in the paths of progress and civilization.&nbsp; Pre-eminently has this
+been the case in South-eastern New Guinea.&nbsp; White men had landed
+before them, it is true; but for the most part only to benefit themselves,
+and not unfrequently to murder the natives or to entrap them into slavery.&nbsp;
+Christianity has won great victories in Polynesia, but no part of the
+globe has witnessed fouler crimes or more atrocious wickedness on the
+part of white men towards savage races.</p>
+<p><!-- page 10--><a name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 10</span>The
+history of the work done by members of the London Missionary Society
+is already a long one.&nbsp; As far back as 1871, the Revs. A. W. Murray
+and S. McFarlane sailed from Mar&eacute;, one of the Loyalty Islands,
+with eight native teachers, inhabitants of that group, with whom to
+begin the campaign against sin, superstition, and savagery in New Guinea.&nbsp;
+The first station occupied was Darnley Island, and Mr. Murray gives
+an incident that well illustrates the spirit in which these men, themselves
+trophies of missionary success, entered upon their work.&nbsp; Speaking
+about another island, the natives, in the hope of intimidating the teachers,
+said, &ldquo;There are alligators there, and snakes, and centipedes.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Hold,&rdquo; said the teacher, &ldquo;are there men there?&rdquo;&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Oh yes,&rdquo; was the reply, &ldquo;there are men; but they
+are such dreadful savages that it is no use your thinking of living
+among them.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;That will do,&rdquo; replied the teacher.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Wherever there are men, missionaries are bound to go.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+Teachers were stationed at the islands of Tauan and Sabaii.&nbsp; Later
+on, Yule Island and Redscar Bay were visited, and the missionaries returned
+to Lifu.</p>
+<p>In 1872, Mr. Murray returned in the <i>John Williams</i> with thirteen
+additional teachers, and for the next two years superintended the mission
+from Cape York.&nbsp; In 1874, he was joined by the Revs. S. McFarlane
+and W. G. Lawes&mdash;who have both ever since that time laboured hard
+and successfully on behalf of the natives&mdash;and the steamer <i>Ellengowan</i>
+was placed at the service <!-- page 11--><a name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 11</span>of
+the mission by the liberality of the late Miss Baxter, of Dundee.&nbsp;
+The native teachers experienced many vicissitudes.&nbsp; Some died from
+inability to stand the climate, some were massacred by the men they
+were striving to bless; but the gaps were filled up as speedily as possible,
+and the map recently issued (Jan. 1885) by the Directors of the Society
+shows that on the south-eastern coast of New Guinea, from Motumotu to
+East Cape, no less than <i>thirty-two native teachers</i>, some of them
+New Guinea converts, are now toiling in the service of the Gospel.</p>
+<p>In 1877, the Rev. James Chalmers joined the mission, and it is hardly
+too much to say that his arrival formed an epoch in its history.&nbsp;
+He is wonderfully equipped for the work to which he has, under God&rsquo;s
+Providence, put his hand, and is the white man best known to all the
+natives along the south coast.&nbsp; From the first he has gone among
+them unarmed, and though not unfrequently in imminent peril, has been
+marvellously preserved.&nbsp; He has combined the qualities of missionary
+and explorer in a very high degree, and while beloved as &ldquo;Tamate&rdquo;
+(Teacher) by the natives, has added enormously to the stock of our geographical
+knowledge of New Guinea, and to our accurate acquaintance with the ways
+of thinking, the habits, superstitions, and mode of life of the various
+tribes of natives.</p>
+<p>Notwithstanding various expensive expeditions for the exploration
+of New Guinea, he has travelled the farthest yet into the interior.&nbsp;
+He has been as far as <!-- page 12--><a name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>Lat.
+S. 9&deg; 2' and Long. E. 147&deg; 42&frac12;'.&nbsp; The farthest point
+reached by Captain Armit was about Lat. S. 9&deg; 35' and Long. E. 147&deg;
+38'.&nbsp; Mr. Morrison merely reached a point on the Goldie River,
+when he was attacked and wounded by the natives.&nbsp; This compelled
+the party to return to Port Moresby.</p>
+<p>Mr. Chalmers is still actively engaged in his work on the great island,
+and he has placed many of his journals and papers at the disposal of
+the Religious Tract Society, in the hope that their publication may
+increase the general store of knowledge about New Guinea, and may also
+give true ideas about the natives, the kind of Christian work that is
+being done in their midst, and the progress in it that is being made.</p>
+<p>The prominence which New Guinea has assumed in the public mind lately
+is due much more to political than to religious reasons.&nbsp; England
+is a Christian nation, and there are numbers who rejoice in New Guinea
+as a signal proof of the regenerating power of the Gospel of Christ.&nbsp;
+Yet, to the Christian man, it is somewhat humiliating to find how deeply
+the press of our country is stirred by the statement that Germany has
+annexed the north coast of New Guinea, while it has hardly been touched
+by the thrilling story of the introduction of Christianity all along
+the south coast.&nbsp; The public mind is much exercised in discussing
+whether Her Majesty&rsquo;s Government should annex the whole rather
+than proclaim a protectorate over a part; it hardly cares to remember
+the names of those who <!-- page 13--><a name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 13</span>have
+died in trying to make known to the fierce Papuans our common brotherhood
+in Christ Jesus.&nbsp; One can understand that this is natural; still
+it will be an augury of good for the future of the English people, when,
+without losing any of their legitimate interest in public affairs, they
+care more for the victories won by faith alone, over ignorance, vice,
+and barbarism, than for the victories won by the rifle and sword, however
+just the cause may be in which these weapons are used.</p>
+<p>For years past the idea has been gaining force in the public mind,
+both in the colonies and at home, that ultimately England would annex
+New Guinea.&nbsp; To any careful student of our history for the last
+century, it may appear strange that we have not done so long before.&nbsp;
+Our practice in the past has been to annex first, and to find reasons
+for it afterwards.&nbsp; To others, the very fact that even now the
+extremest step is only to proclaim a protectorate over a part, may appear
+to indicate that we are not quite so sure as we have been that annexation
+is wholly a blessing either to us or to the land annexed.</p>
+<p>As already noted, in 1873, Captain Moresby did good service by accurately
+laying down the coastline of Eastern New Guinea.&nbsp; In accomplishing
+this, he discovered that there were several beautiful islands that had
+hitherto been considered part of the mainland.&nbsp; It is best perhaps
+to give what followed in his own words:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The importance of our discoveries led me to <!-- page 14--><a name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 14</span>consider
+their bearing on Imperial and Australian interests.&nbsp; There lay
+the vast island of New Guinea, dominating the shores of Northern Australia,
+separated at one point by only twenty miles of coral reef from British
+possessions, commanding the Torres Straits route, commanding the increasing
+pearl-shell fisheries, and also the <i>b&ecirc;che-de-mer</i> fishery.&nbsp;
+It was also improved by the richness and beauty, and the number of their
+fine vegetable products&mdash;fine timber, the cocoanut, the sago palm,
+sugar-cane, maize, jute, and various vegetable fibres, fruits and rich
+grasses&mdash;and my conclusion, after weighing all the considerations
+involved, was, that it was my duty to take formal possession of our
+discoveries in the name of Her Majesty.&nbsp; Such a course secured
+a postponement of occupation by any Power till our Government could
+consider its own interests, and whilst the acquisition of these islands
+might commend itself, and my act result in annexation on the one hand,
+it might be negatived on the other with easy simplicity, by a neglect
+to confirm it.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Accordingly, a cocoanut tree was transformed into a flagstaff, the
+British flag was run up, and duly saluted with cheers and volleys, and
+a picture of the proceeding adorns the captain&rsquo;s book as frontispiece.</p>
+<p>Ever since that time events have tended in the direction of bringing
+New Guinea into closer relations with England.&nbsp; On the one hand,
+there has been the conviction that if we do not annex it some other
+country will, and thus threaten Australia.&nbsp; Then many <!-- page 15--><a name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>Australians
+have looked upon New Guinea as a possible paradise for colonists, and
+have been eager to establish themselves securely upon its soil.&nbsp;
+The attempts in this direction have produced little but disaster to
+all concerned.</p>
+<p>On the other hand, missionaries feel that there is much to be said
+on the same side.&nbsp; Perhaps the opinion of no one man deserves more
+weight than that of Mr. Chalmers.&nbsp; We give his views, as he expressed
+them before the protectorate was proclaimed.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;This question of the annexation of New Guinea is still creating
+a good deal of interest, and although at present the Imperial Government,
+through Lord Derby, has given its decision against annexation, yet the
+whole matter must, I have no doubt, be reconsidered, and the island
+be eventually annexed.&nbsp; It is to be hoped the country is not to
+become part of the Australian colonies&mdash;a labour land, and a land
+where loose money in the hands of a few capitalists is to enter in and
+make enormous fortunes, sacrificing the natives and everything else.&nbsp;
+If the Imperial Government is afraid of the expense, I think that can
+easily be avoided.&nbsp; Annex New Guinea, and save it from another
+power, who might harass our Australian colonies; administer it for the
+natives, and the whole machinery of government can be maintained by
+New Guinea, and allow a large overplus.&nbsp; We have all the experience
+of the Dutch in Java; I say, accept and improve.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;It will be said that, as a nation, Britain has never <!-- page 16--><a name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 16</span>tried
+to govern commercially, or has not yet made money out of her governing;
+and why should she now?&nbsp; She does not want New Guinea.&nbsp; Why
+should she go to the expense of governing?&nbsp; Her colonies may be
+unsafe with a country of splendid harbours so near in the hands of a
+foreign power, and the people of that country need a strong, friendly,
+and just power over them, to save them from themselves and from the
+white man&mdash;whose gods are gold and land, and to whom the black
+man is a nuisance to be got rid of as soon as possible.&nbsp; Let Britain
+for these reasons annex, and from the day of annexation New Guinea will
+pay all her own expenses; the expenses of the first three years to be
+paid with compound interest at the end of that period.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Let us begin by recognizing all native rights, and letting
+it be distinctly understood that we govern for the native races, not
+the white men, that we are determined to civilize and raise to a higher
+level of humanity those whom we govern, that our aim will be to do all
+to defend them and save them from extermination by just humanitarian
+laws&mdash;not the laws of the British nation&mdash;but the laws suited
+for them.&nbsp; It will not take long for the natives to learn that
+not only are we great and powerful, but we are just and merciful, and
+we seek their good.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;That established, I would suggest appointing officers in every
+district, whose duty it would be to govern through the native chief,
+and see that every <!-- page 17--><a name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>native
+attended to plantations.&nbsp; A native planting tea, sugar, coffee,
+maize, cinchona, etc., to be allowed a bounty, and when returns arrived
+to be allowed so much per pound sterling.&nbsp; All these things to
+be superintended by the said officer.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Traders would soon swarm, but no one should be allowed to
+trade with natives directly, but only through the Government.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;All unoccupied land to belong to the Government, and to be
+leased to those wishing land.&nbsp; No native should be allowed to part
+with land, and if desirous to sell, then only to the Government, who
+would allow him a reasonable price.&nbsp; Every land transaction to
+be made through Government; no land to be sold, only leased.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The land revenue will be immense, and after paying all expenses,
+will leave much for improvements and the education of the people.&nbsp;
+Stringent laws passed directly annexation takes place to prevent importation
+of arms and spirits will be a true safeguard for the natives.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;As a nation, let Britain, in the zenith of her power and greatness,
+think kindly of the native races, and now for once in her history rule
+this great island for right and righteousness, in justice and mercy,
+and not for self and pelf in unrighteousness, blood, and falsehood.&nbsp;
+It is to be hoped that future generations of New Guinea natives will
+not rise up to condemn her, as the New Zealanders have done, and to
+claim <!-- page 18--><a name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 18</span>their
+ancient rights with tears now unheeded.&nbsp; I can see along the vista
+of the future, truth and righteousness in Britain&rsquo;s hands, and
+the inhabitants of New Guinea yet unborn blessing her for her rule;
+if otherwise, God help the British meanness, for they will rise to pronounce
+a curse on her for ever!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>In 1883, the Queensland Government <i>did</i> formally annex their
+huge neighbour; but this act was subsequently repudiated by the Home
+Government.&nbsp; Towards the end of 1884, it was decided to announce
+a formal protectorate over a large portion of the southern shores of
+New Guinea.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/19b.jpg">
+<img alt="Boevagi. Chief of Port Moresby" src="images/19s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The official ceremony took place on Nov. 6th, 1884, at Port Moresby.&nbsp;
+Five ships of war at once gave dignity to the proceeding by their presence,
+and astonished the natives by their salutes.&nbsp; About fifty chiefs
+were brought on board the Commodore&rsquo;s ship, the <i>Nelson</i>,
+by the Rev. W. G. Lawes.&nbsp; To Boevagi, the chief of the Port Moresby
+tribe, was entrusted the responsibility of upholding the authority and
+dignity of England in the island.&nbsp; He was presented with an ebony
+stick, into the top of which had been let a florin, with the Queen&rsquo;s
+head uppermost.&nbsp; Mr. Lawes conveyed to Boevagi the meaning of the
+Commodore&rsquo;s words when he gave the stick.&nbsp; &ldquo;I present
+you with this stick, which is to be an emblem of your authority; and
+all the tribes who are represented by the chiefs here are to look to
+the holder of this stick.&nbsp; Boevagi, this stick represents the Queen
+of England, <!-- page 21--><a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>and
+if at any time any of the people of these tribes have any grievance
+or anything to say, they are, through the holder of this stick, to make
+it known to the Queen&rsquo;s officers, in order that it may be inquired
+into.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The formal protectorate was announced in the following terms:&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;To all to whom these presents shall come, greeting:&mdash;Whereas
+it has become essential for the lives and properties of the native inhabitants
+of New Guinea, and for the purpose of preventing the occupation of portions
+of that country by persons whose proceedings, unsanctioned by any lawful
+authority, might tend to injustice, strife, and bloodshed, and who,
+under the pretence of legitimate trade and intercourse, might endanger
+the liberties and possess themselves of the lands of such native inhabitants,
+that a British protectorate should be established over a certain portion
+of such country and the islands adjacent thereto; and whereas Her Majesty,
+having taken into her gracious consideration the urgent necessity of
+her protection to such inhabitants, has directed me to proclaim such
+protection in a formal manner at this place,&mdash;now I, James Elphinstone
+Erskine, Captain in the Royal Navy and Commodore of the Australian Station,
+one of Her Majesty&rsquo;s naval aides-de-camp, do hereby, in the name
+of Her Most Gracious Majesty, declare and proclaim the establishment
+of such protectorate over such portions of the coast and the adjacent
+islands as is more particularly <!-- page 22--><a name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>described
+in the schedule hereunto annexed; and I hereby proclaim and declare
+that no acquisition of land, whensoever or howsoever acquired, within
+the limits of the protectorate hereby established will be recognized
+by Her Majesty; and I do hereby, on behalf of Her Majesty, command and
+enjoin all persons whom it may concern to take notice of this proclamation.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Schedule</span>.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;All that portion of the southern shores of New Guinea commencing
+from the boundary of that portion of the country claimed by the Government
+of the Netherlands on the 141st meridian of east longitude to East Cape,
+with all the islands adjacent thereto south of East Cape to Kosmann
+Island inclusive, together with the islands in the Goschen Straits.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Given on board Her Majesty&rsquo;s ship <i>Nelson</i>, at
+the harbour of Port Moresby, on the 6th day of November, 1884.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The die has thus been cast.&nbsp; Already rumours that seem to have
+some foundation are in the air that the protectorate is soon to become
+annexation.&nbsp; It should be the aim of all to see that, by the force
+of public opinion, the last portion of the heathen world that has come
+under English protection shall have, as the years pass, many and solid
+reasons for thanking God that He has so guided its destinies as to unite
+them to our great Empire.</p>
+<h2><!-- page 23--><a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 23</span>CHAPTER
+I.&nbsp; EARLY EXPERIENCES.</h2>
+<p>Somerset&mdash;Murray Island&mdash;Darnley Island&mdash;Boera&mdash;Moresby&mdash;Trip
+inland&mdash;Sunday at Port Moresby&mdash;Native funeral ceremonies&mdash;Tupuselei&mdash;Round
+Head&mdash;Native salutations&mdash;Kerepunu&mdash;Teste Island&mdash;Hoop-iron
+as an article of commerce&mdash;Two teachers landed&mdash;A tabooed
+place&mdash;Moresby and Basilisk Islands&mdash;South Cape&mdash;House
+building&mdash;Difficulties with the natives&mdash;An anxious moment&mdash;Thefts&mdash;Dancing
+and cooking&mdash;Visit to a native village&mdash;Native shot on the
+Mayri&mdash;Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers in danger&mdash;Arrival of the <i>Ellengowan</i>.</p>
+<p>Towards the close of 1877, Mr. Chalmers and Mr. McFarlane visited
+New Guinea for the purpose of exploring the coast, landing native teachers
+at suitable spots, and thus opening the way for future missionary effort.&nbsp;
+What follows is given in Mr. Chalmers&rsquo;s words:&mdash;</p>
+<p>We left Sydney by the Dutch steamer <i>William M&rsquo;Kinnon</i>,
+on September 20th, 1877, for Somerset.&nbsp; The sail inside the Barrier
+Reef is most enjoyable.&nbsp; The numerous islands passed, and the varied
+coast scenery make the voyage a very pleasant one&mdash;especially <!-- page 24--><a name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>with
+such men as our captain and mates.&nbsp; On Sunday, the 30th, we reached
+Somerset, where we were met by the <i>Bertha</i>, with Mr. McFarlane
+on board of her.&nbsp; Mr. McFarlane was soon on board of the steamer
+to welcome us, and remained with us till the evening.&nbsp; There was
+very little of the Sabbath observed that day&mdash;all was bustle and
+confusion.&nbsp; Quite a number of the pearl-shelling boats were at
+Somerset awaiting the arrival of the steamer, and the masters of these
+boats were soon on and around the steamer receiving their goods.</p>
+<p>On Tuesday, October 2nd, we left Somerset in the <i>Bertha</i>, for
+Murray Island, anchoring that night off Albany.&nbsp; On Wednesday night,
+we anchored off a sandbank, and on Thursday, off a miserable-looking
+island, called Village Island.&nbsp; On Friday, we came to York Island,
+where we went ashore and saw only four natives&mdash;one man and three
+boys.&nbsp; At eleven p.m. on Saturday, we anchored at Darnley Island.&nbsp;
+This is a fine island, and more suitable for vessels and landing goods
+than Murray, but supposed to be not so healthy.&nbsp; The island is
+about five hundred feet in height, in some parts thickly wooded, in
+others bare.&nbsp; It was here the natives cut off a boat&rsquo;s crew
+about thirty years ago, for which they suffered&mdash;the captain landing
+with part of his crew, well-armed, killing many and chasing them right
+round the island.&nbsp; They never again attempted anything of the kind.&nbsp;
+As a native of the island expressed himself on the subject:&mdash;<!-- page 25--><a name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 25</span>&ldquo;White
+fellow, he too much make fright, man he all run away, no want see white
+fellow gun no more.&rdquo;&nbsp; In 1871, the first teachers were landed
+here.</p>
+<p>The Sunday morning was fine, and we resolved to spend a quiet forenoon
+on shore.&nbsp; We landed after breakfast, and walked through what must
+be in wet weather a deep swamp, to the mission house on the hill.&nbsp;
+Gucheng, the Loyalty islander, who is teacher here, looks a good determined
+fellow.&nbsp; The people seem to live not far from the mission house,
+so did not take long to assemble.&nbsp; There were about eighty at the
+service, including a few Australians employed by one of the white men
+on the island to fish for trepang.&nbsp; The Darnley islanders appear
+a much more interesting people than the Australians.&nbsp; Many of those
+present at the service were clothed.&nbsp; They sang very well indeed
+such hymns as &ldquo;Come to Jesus,&rdquo; &ldquo;Canaan, bright Canaan,&rdquo;
+which, with some others, have been translated into their language.&nbsp;
+Mr. McFarlane addressed them, through the teacher, and the people seemed
+to attend to what was said.</p>
+<p>Because of a strong head wind, we could not leave the next day, so
+Mr. McFarlane and I returned to the shore.&nbsp; We found the children
+collected in Gucheng&rsquo;s house, learning to write the letters on
+slates.&nbsp; There were very few girls present&mdash;indeed, there
+are not many girls on the island, so many have been destroyed by their
+fathers at birth.&nbsp; We strolled about and visited the large cocoanut
+plantation belonging <!-- page 26--><a name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>to
+the society.&nbsp; On our return we found the teacher and a number of
+natives collected near the beach.&nbsp; They had just buried a man who
+had died the night before&mdash;so Christian burial has begun.&nbsp;
+Formerly, the body would have been hung up and tapped, to allow the
+juices to run out, which would have been drunk by the friends.&nbsp;
+We returned to the mission house for dinner.&nbsp; I was glad to find
+so many boys living with Gucheng.&nbsp; They were bright, happy little
+fellows, romping about, enjoying themselves.</p>
+<p>We did not get away from Darnley Island till the morning of Wednesday,
+the 10th.&nbsp; The navigation between Darnley and Murray Islands is
+difficult, arising from various reefs and currents.&nbsp; Although only
+twenty-seven miles separate the two, it was Friday night before we anchored
+at Murray Island.&nbsp; We went ashore the same night.</p>
+<p>On Saturday, we climbed to the highest point of the island, seven
+hundred feet high.&nbsp; There seems to be no lack of food, chiefly
+grown inland.&nbsp; From the long drought, the island presented in many
+places a parched look, and lacked that luxuriance of vegetation to which
+we had been so long accustomed on Rarotonga.</p>
+<p>At the forenoon meeting on Sunday there were nearly two hundred present.&nbsp;
+Mr. McFarlane preached.&nbsp; A few had a little clothing on them; some
+seemed attentive, but the most seemed to consider the occasion a fit
+time for relating the week&rsquo;s news, or of <!-- page 27--><a name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>commenting
+on the strangers present.&nbsp; The Sabbath is observed by church attendance
+and a cessation from work.&nbsp; There is not much thieving on the island;
+they are an indolent people.&nbsp; The school is well attended by old
+and young, and Josiah, the teacher, has quite a number of children living
+with him.&nbsp; They sing very well.</p>
+<p>Several of the old men here wear wigs.&nbsp; It seems when grey hairs
+appear they are carefully pulled out; as time moves on they increase
+so fast that they would require to shave the head often, so, to cover
+their shame, they take to wigs, which represent them as having long,
+flowing, curly hair, as in youth.&nbsp; Wigs would not astonish the
+Murray islanders, as Mr. Nott&rsquo;s did the Tahitians after his return
+from England.&nbsp; They soon spread the news round the island that
+their missionary had had his head newly thatched, and looked a young
+man again.</p>
+<p>On Monday, the teachers&rsquo; goods and mission supplies were put
+on board the <i>Bertha</i>.&nbsp; On Tuesday afternoon, after everything
+was on board, a farewell service was held with the teachers, and early
+on Wednesday morning we left Murray Island for New Guinea.&nbsp; On
+Friday, we made New Guinea, off Yule Island, and about sunset on October
+21st we anchored about five miles off Boera.&nbsp; Near to the place
+where we anchored was a low swampy ground covered with mangrove.&nbsp;
+We could see Lealea, where there has been so much sickness.&nbsp; It
+presented the same low, <!-- page 28--><a name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>swampy,
+unhealthy appearance.&nbsp; Soon after we anchored a canoe came alongside
+with Mr. Lawes and Piri on board.&nbsp; Mr. Lawes did not seem so strong
+as I remembered him eleven years ago, yet he looked better than I had
+expected to see him.&nbsp; He has suffered greatly from the climate.&nbsp;
+Piri is a strong, hearty fellow; the climate seems to have had little
+effect on him.&nbsp; They remained some time on board, when they went
+ashore in the vessel&rsquo;s boat&mdash;Piri taking the teachers and
+their wives ashore with him.&nbsp; The wind was ahead, and too strong
+for the canoe, so the men who came off in her with Mr. Lawes and Piri
+remained on board the <i>Bertha</i> till midnight, when the wind abated.&nbsp;
+When the boat was leaving, they shouted to Mr. Lawes to tell us not
+to be afraid, as they would not steal anything.&nbsp; They remained
+quietly on board till two a.m.</p>
+<p>Mr. McFarlane and I went ashore in the morning.&nbsp; The country
+looked bare and not at all inviting.&nbsp; This is now the most western
+mission station on New Guinea proper.&nbsp; Piri has a very comfortable
+house, with a plantation near to it.&nbsp; The chapel, built principally
+by himself and wife, is small, but comfortable, and well suited for
+the climate.&nbsp; The children meet in it for school.&nbsp; The village
+has a very dirty, tumbledown appearance.</p>
+<p>The widows of two teachers who died last year shortly after their
+arrival in the mission were living with Piri.&nbsp; We took them on
+board, with their things, <!-- page 29--><a name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 29</span>to
+accompany us to the new mission.&nbsp; I returned ashore with the boat
+to fetch away the remainder of the things and teachers who were ashore,
+and when ready to return found the vessel too far off to fetch her,
+so, after pulling for some time, we up sail and away for Port Moresby.&nbsp;
+Piri and his wife came with us in their large canoe.&nbsp; We saw several
+dugongs on the way, which some esteem extra good food.&nbsp; Tom, one
+of the Loyalty Island teachers, who was in the boat with us, expressed
+their edible qualities thus: &ldquo;You know, sir, pig, he good.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Yes, Tom, it is very good.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Ah, he no good;
+dugong, he much good.&rdquo;&nbsp; It must be good when a native pronounces
+it to be better than pork.</p>
+<p>We arrived at Port Moresby about six o&rsquo;clock.&nbsp; I cannot
+say I was much charmed with the place, it had such a burnt-up, barren
+appearance.&nbsp; Close to the village is a mangrove swamp, and the
+whole bay is enclosed with high hills.&nbsp; At the back of the mission
+premises, and close to them, is a large swampy place, which in wet weather
+is full of water.&nbsp; There can be no doubt about Port Moresby being
+a very unhealthy place.&nbsp; We went ashore for breakfast next day,
+and in the afternoon visited the school; about forty children were present&mdash;an
+unusually large number.&nbsp; Many of the children know the alphabet,
+and a few can spell words of two or three letters.&nbsp; In walking
+through the village in the afternoon we saw the women making their crockery
+pots, preparing for the men&rsquo;s return <!-- page 30--><a name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 30</span>from
+the Gulf, the next north-west season, with large quantities of sago.&nbsp;
+We visited the graves of the teachers, which are kept in good order.&nbsp;
+They are all enclosed by a good fence.&nbsp; Within the same enclosure
+is one little grave that will bind New Guinea close to the hearts of
+Mr. and Mrs. Lawes.&nbsp; Over them all may be written&mdash;&ldquo;For
+Christ&rsquo;s sake.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>In returning from the graves, we met a man in mourning, whose wife
+had been killed in a canoe by natives about Round Head.&nbsp; He and
+his friends had resolved to retaliate, but through the influence of
+the teachers they did not do so.&nbsp; The teachers from the villages
+to the east of Port Moresby came in this afternoon, looking well and
+hearty.&nbsp; Some of them have suffered a good deal from fever and
+ague, but are now becoming acclimatized.&nbsp; The natives of the various
+villages are not now afraid of one another, but accompany their teachers
+from place to place.&nbsp; Men, women, and children smoke, and will
+do anything for tobacco.&nbsp; The best present you can give them is
+tobacco; it is the one thing for which they beg.</p>
+<p>As it was decided that the vessel should not leave before Tuesday
+of the next week, Mr. McFarlane and I took a trip inland.&nbsp; I was
+anxious to see for myself if anything could be done for the natives
+living in the mountains.&nbsp; Mr. Goldie, a naturalist, with his party,
+was about ten miles inland.&nbsp; He himself had been at Port Moresby
+for some days, and, on hearing of our plans, he joined us, and we proceeded
+first to his camp.&nbsp; <!-- page 31--><a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>We
+left Port Moresby about half-past five on Thursday morning, and crossed
+the low ground at the back of the mission house.&nbsp; We ascended the
+hill which runs all along the coast in this district at a part about
+three hundred feet high, and then descended into a great plain.&nbsp;
+At present the plain is dry and hard, from the long drought, and very
+little of anything green is to be seen.&nbsp; There are a few small
+gum-trees, and great herds of wallabies were jumping about.&nbsp; The
+greater part of this plain is under water in the wet seasons.&nbsp;
+We walked about ten miles in an east-north-east direction, keeping the
+Astrolabe Range to our right, when we came to the camp, close by a large
+river&mdash;the Laroki.&nbsp; Being afraid of alligators, we preferred
+having water poured over us to bathing in the river.</p>
+<p>Our party was a tolerably large one&mdash;Ruatoka (the Port Moresby
+teacher), some Port Moresby natives, and four Loyalty Island teachers,
+on their way to East Cape.&nbsp; We did not see a strange native all
+the way.&nbsp; We had our hammocks made fast in the bush by the river
+side, and rested until three p.m., when we started for another part
+of the river about seven miles off, in a south-east direction.&nbsp;
+Mr. Goldie also shifted his camp.&nbsp; After sunset we reached the
+point where the river was to be crossed, and there we meant to remain
+for the night.</p>
+<p>We had a bath, then supper, and evening prayers; after which we slung
+our hammocks to the trees, in which we rested well.&nbsp; It was a strangely
+weird-looking <!-- page 32--><a name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>sight,
+and the noises were of a strange kind&mdash;wallabies leaping past,
+and strange birds overhead.&nbsp; Mr. Goldie&rsquo;s Mar&eacute; men
+joined with their countrymen, the teachers, in singing some of Sankey&rsquo;s
+hymns in English.&nbsp; Soon sleep came, and all seemed quiet.</p>
+<p>At three a.m. of the 26th we struck camp, and after morning prayers
+we began to cross the river, which was not over four feet in the deepest
+part.&nbsp; It was here Mr. Lawes crossed when he first visited the
+inland tribes; so now, led by Ruatoka, we were on his track.&nbsp; The
+moon was often hidden by dark clouds, so we had some difficulty in keeping
+to the path.&nbsp; We pressed on, as we were anxious to get to a deserted
+village which Mr. Goldie knew to breakfast.&nbsp; We reached the village
+about six, and after we had partaken of breakfast we set off for the
+mountains.&nbsp; When we had gone about four miles the road became more
+uneven.&nbsp; Wallabies were not to be seen, and soon we were in a valley
+close by the river, which we followed for a long way, and then began
+to ascend.&nbsp; We climbed it under a burning sun, Ruatoka calling
+out, <i>Tepiake</i>, <i>tepiake</i>, <i>tepiake</i> (Friends, friends,
+friends).&nbsp; Armed natives soon appeared on the ridge, shouting,
+<i>Misi Lao</i>, <i>Misi Lao</i>.&nbsp; Ruatoka called back, <i>Misi
+Lao</i> (Mr. Lawes), and all was right&mdash;spears were put away and
+they came to meet us, escorting us to a sort of reception-room, where
+we all squatted, glad to get in the shade from the sun.&nbsp; We were
+now about 1100 feet above the sea level.&nbsp; <!-- page 33--><a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 33</span>We
+were surprised to see their houses built on the highest tree-tops they
+could find on the top of the ridge.&nbsp; One of the teachers remarked,
+&ldquo;Queer fellows these; not only do they live on the mountain tops,
+but they must select the highest trees they can find for their houses.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+We were very soon friends; they seemed at ease, some smoking tobacco,
+others chewing betel-nuts.&nbsp; I changed my shirt, and when those
+near me saw my white skin they raised a shout that soon brought the
+others round.&nbsp; Bartering soon began&mdash;taro, sugar-cane, sweet
+yams, and water were got in exchange for tobacco, beads, and cloth.</p>
+<p>After resting about two hours, we proceeded to the next village,
+five miles further along the ridge.&nbsp; Some of our party were too
+tired to accompany us; they remained where we expected to camp for the
+night.&nbsp; After walking some miles, we came unexpectedly on some
+natives.&nbsp; As soon as they saw us they rushed for their spears,
+and seemed determined to dispute our way.&nbsp; By a number of signs&mdash;touching
+our chins with our right hands, etc.&mdash;they understood we were not
+foes, so they soon became friendly.&nbsp; They had their faces blackened
+with soot, plumbago, and gum, and then sprinkled over with white; their
+mouths and teeth were in a terrible mess from chewing the betel-nut.&nbsp;
+On our leaving them, they shouted on to the next village.&nbsp; An old
+man lay outside on the platform of the next house we came to; he looked
+terribly frightened as we approached him, but as, instead of <!-- page 34--><a name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>injuring
+him, we gave him a present, he soon rallied, and got us water to drink.&nbsp;
+By-and-by a few gathered round.&nbsp; We understood them to say the
+most of the people were away on the plains hunting for wallabies.&nbsp;
+One young woman had a net over her shoulders and covering her breasts,
+as a token of mourning&mdash;an improvement on their ordinary attire,
+which is simply a short grass petticoat&mdash;the men <i>nil</i>.</p>
+<p>After a short stay, we returned to where we thought of camping for
+the night, but for want of water we went on to the village we had visited
+in the forenoon.&nbsp; We slung our hammocks in the reception room,
+had supper, and turned in for the night.&nbsp; It felt bleak and cold,
+and the narrowness of the ridge made us careful, even in our sleep,
+lest we should fall out and over.&nbsp; On coming across the highest
+peak in the afternoon, we had a magnificent view of Mount Owen Stanley,
+with his two peaks rising far away above the other mountains by which
+he is surrounded.&nbsp; It must have been about thirty miles off, and,
+I should think, impossible to reach from where we were.&nbsp; We were
+entirely surrounded by mountains: mountains north, east, south, and
+west&mdash;above us and below us.&nbsp; I question if it will ever be
+a country worth settling in.</p>
+<p>We were anxious to spend the Sabbath at Port Moresby, so, leaving
+the most of our party, who were too tired to come with us, to rest till
+Monday, Mr. McFarlane, Ruatoka, and I set off on our return very <!-- page 35--><a name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 35</span>early
+on Saturday morning, and had strangely difficult work in getting down
+the mountain side and along the river.&nbsp; Fireflies danced all round
+in hundreds, and we awakened many strange birds before their time, which
+gave forth a note or two, only to sleep again.&nbsp; Before daylight,
+we were at Mr. Goldie&rsquo;s camp, where we had breakfast, and hurried
+on for the river.&nbsp; We rested a short time there, and then away
+over plains to Port Moresby, which we reached about midday, tired indeed
+and very footsore.&nbsp; Oh, that shoemakers had only to wear the boots
+they send to missionaries!</p>
+<p>Early on Sunday morning, a great many natives went out with their
+spears, nets, and dogs, to hunt wallabies.&nbsp; A goodly number attended
+the forenoon service, when Mr. Lawes preached.&nbsp; A good many strangers
+were present from an inland village on the Astrolabe side.&nbsp; There
+is not yet much observance of the Sabbath.&nbsp; Poi, one of the chief
+men of the place, is very friendly: he kept quite a party of his inland
+friends from hunting, and brought them to the services.&nbsp; Mr. Lawes
+preached again in the afternoon.&nbsp; As we went to church in the afternoon
+the hunters were returning: they had evidently had a successful day&rsquo;s
+hunting.&nbsp; During the day a canoe came in from Hula, laden with
+old cocoanuts, which were traded for pottery.</p>
+<p>In the evening, an old sorceress died, and great was the wailing
+over her body.&nbsp; She was buried on the <!-- page 36--><a name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>Monday
+morning, just opposite the house in which she had lived.&nbsp; A grave
+was dug two feet deep, and spread over with mats, on which the corpse
+was laid.&nbsp; Her husband lay on the body, in the grave, for some
+time, and, after some talking to the departed spirit, got up, and lay
+down by the side of the grave, covered with a mat.&nbsp; About midday,
+the grave was covered over with the earth, and friends sat on it weeping.&nbsp;
+The relatives of the dead put on mourning by blackening their bodies
+all over, and besmearing them with ashes.</p>
+<p>On the 31st, the <i>Bertha</i> left for Kerepunu.&nbsp; As I was
+anxious to see all the mission stations along the coast between Port
+Moresby and Kerepunu, I remained, to accompany Mr. Lawes in the small
+schooner <i>Mayri</i>.&nbsp; We left on the following day, and sailed
+down the coast inside the reef.&nbsp; We arrived at Tupuselei about
+midday.&nbsp; There were two teachers here, and Mr. Lawes having decided
+to remove one, we got him on board, and sailed for Kaili.&nbsp; The
+villages of Tupuselei and Kaili are quite in the sea.&nbsp; I fear they
+are very unhealthy&mdash;mangroves and low swampy ground abound.&nbsp;
+The Astrolabe Range is not far from the shore we were sailing along
+all day.&nbsp; There is a fine bold coast line, with many bays.</p>
+<p>In the early morning, our small vessel of only seven tons was crowded
+with natives.&nbsp; We left the vessel about nine a.m. for a walk inland,
+accompanied by a number of natives, who all went to their houses for
+<!-- page 37--><a name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>their
+arms before they would leave their village.&nbsp; They have no faith
+whatever in one another.&nbsp; We passed through a large swamp covered
+with mangroves&mdash;then into a dense tropical bush, passing through
+an extensive grove of sago palms and good-sized mango trees.&nbsp; The
+mangoes were small&mdash;about the size of a plum&mdash;and very sweet.&nbsp;
+At some distance inland I took up a peculiar-looking seed; one of the
+natives, thinking I was going to eat it, very earnestly urged me to
+throw it away, and with signs gave me to understand that if I ate it
+I should swell out to an enormous size, and die.</p>
+<p>We walked about seven miles through bush, and then began the ascent
+of one of the spurs of the Astrolabe.&nbsp; On nearing the inland village
+for which we were bound, the natives became somewhat afraid, and the
+leader stopped, and, turning to Mr. Lawes, asked him if he would indeed
+not kill any of the people.&nbsp; He was assured all was right, and
+then he moved on a few paces, to stop again, and re-inquire if all was
+right.&nbsp; When reassured, we all went on, not a word spoken by any
+one, and so in silence we entered the village.&nbsp; When we were observed,
+spears began rattling in the houses; but our party shouted, <i>Maino</i>,
+<i>maino</i> (Peace, peace), <i>Misi Lao</i>, <i>Misi Lao</i>.&nbsp;
+The women escaped through the trap-doors in the floors of their houses,
+and away down the side of the hill into the bush.&nbsp; We reached the
+chief&rsquo;s house, and there remained.</p>
+<p><!-- page 38--><a name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>The
+people soon regained confidence, and came round us, wondering greatly
+at the first white men they had ever seen in their village.&nbsp; The
+women returned from their flight, and began to cook food, which, when
+ready, they brought to us, and of which we all heartily partook.&nbsp;
+We gave them presents, and they would not suffer us to depart till they
+had brought us a return present of uncooked food.&nbsp; They are a fine,
+healthy-looking people, lighter than those on the coast.&nbsp; Many
+were in deep mourning, and frightfully besmeared.&nbsp; There are a
+number of villages close by, on the various ridges.&nbsp; We returned
+by a different way, following the bed of what must be in the rainy season
+a large river.&nbsp; The banks were in many places from eight to nine
+feet high.</p>
+<p>On the following morning, November 3rd, we weighed anchor and set
+sail, passing Kapakapa, a double village in the sea.&nbsp; The houses
+are large and well built.&nbsp; There are numerous villages on the hills
+at the back of it, and not too far away to be visited.&nbsp; We anchored
+off Round Head, which does not, as represented on the charts, rise boldly
+from the sea.&nbsp; There is a plain between two and three miles broad
+between the sea and the hill called Round Head.&nbsp; There are many
+villages on the hills along this part of the coast.&nbsp; We anchored
+close to the shore.&nbsp; A number of natives were on the beach, but
+could not be induced to visit us on board.&nbsp; We went ashore to them
+after dinner.&nbsp; They knew Mr. Lawes by name <!-- page 39--><a name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span>only,
+and became more easy when he assured them that he was really and truly
+<i>Misi Lao</i>.&nbsp; They professed friendship by calling out, <i>Maino</i>,
+<i>maino</i>, catching hold of their noses, and pointing to their stomachs.&nbsp;
+After a little time, two ventured to accompany Mr. Lawes on board, and
+received presents.&nbsp; I remained ashore astonishing others by striking
+matches, and showing off my arms and chest.&nbsp; The women were so
+frightened that they all kept at a respectful distance.&nbsp; These
+are the natives from an inland village that killed a Port Moresby native
+about the beginning of the year.&nbsp; When those who accompanied Mr.
+Lawes on board the <i>Mayri</i> returned to the shore, they were instantly
+surrounded by their friends, who seized the presents and made off.&nbsp;
+They had received fish, biscuit, and taro.&nbsp; The taro and fish were
+smelt all over, and carefully examined before eaten.&nbsp; The biscuit
+was wrapped up again in the paper.</p>
+<p>On Sunday, the 4th, we were beating down through innumerable reefs,
+and at eight p.m. we anchored about three miles from Hula.&nbsp; The
+following morning we went up to the village, the <i>Mayri</i> anchoring
+close by the houses.&nbsp; The country about here looks fine and green,
+a very striking contrast to that around Port Moresby.&nbsp; The further
+east we get from Port Moresby, the finer the country looks.&nbsp; The
+people are also superior&mdash;finer-made men and women, and really
+pretty boys and girls&mdash;more, altogether, like our eastern South
+Sea Islanders.&nbsp; The married women <!-- page 40--><a name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>spoil
+their looks by keeping their heads shaved.&nbsp; They seem fond of their
+children: men and women nurse them.&nbsp; They were busy preparing their
+large canoes to visit Port Moresby, on the return of the Port Moresby
+canoes from the west with sago.</p>
+<p>About three in the afternoon, an old woman made her appearance at
+the door of the mission house, bawling out, &ldquo;Well, what liars
+these Hula people are; some of them were inland this morning, and the
+chief asked them if <i>Misi Lao</i> had come, and they said no.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+The chief, who saw the vessel from the hill top where his village is,
+thought it strange the vessel should be there without <i>Misi Lao</i>,
+so sent this woman to learn the truth.&nbsp; She received a present
+for herself and the chief, and went away quite happy.</p>
+<p>Next morning, November 6th, we left Hula with a fair wind, and were
+anchored close to Kerepunu by nine o&rsquo;clock.&nbsp; The <i>Bertha</i>
+was anchored fully two miles off.&nbsp; Kerepunu is a magnificent place,
+and its people are very fine-looking.&nbsp; It is one large town of
+seven districts, with fine houses, all arranged in streets, crotons
+and other plants growing about, and cockatoos perching in front of nearly
+every house.&nbsp; One part of the population plant, another fish, and
+the planters buy the fish with their produce.&nbsp; Men, women, and
+children are all workers; they go to their plantations in the morning
+and return to their homes in the evening, only sick ones remaining at
+home; thus accounting for the number of scrofulous people we saw going
+<!-- page 41--><a name="page41"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 41</span>about
+when we first landed.&nbsp; They have a rule, to which they strictly
+adhere all the year round, of working for two days and resting the third.</p>
+<p>The <i>Bertha</i> arrived here on Friday evening.&nbsp; Mrs. Chalmers
+was at the forenoon service on the Sunday, and found there a large congregation.&nbsp;
+The service was held on the platform of one of the largest houses.&nbsp;
+Anedered preached, a number sitting on the platform, others in the house,
+others on the ground all round, and many at the doors of their own houses,
+where they could hear all that was said.</p>
+<p>Mr. Lawes decided to remain at Kerepunu to revise for the press a
+small book Anedered has been preparing, and to follow us to Teste Island
+in the <i>Ellengowan</i>.&nbsp; We left Kerepunu on the morning of November
+8th, the <i>Mayri</i> leaving at the same time, to sail down inside
+the surf.&nbsp; We went right out to sea, so as to beat down, had fine
+weather, and were off Teste Island by the 16th.&nbsp; After dinner we
+took the boat, and with the captain went in on the east side of the
+island through the reef, to sound and find anchorage.</p>
+<p>When we reached the lagoon, a catamaran with three natives on it
+came off to us.&nbsp; We asked for Koitan, the chief, which at once
+gave them confidence in us, so that they came alongside, one getting
+into the boat.&nbsp; He expressed his friendship to us in the usual
+way, viz. by touching his nose and stomach, and, being very much excited,
+seized hold of Mr. <!-- page 42--><a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 42</span>McFarlane
+and rubbed noses with him, doing the same to me.&nbsp; He received a
+present of a piece of hoop-iron and some red braid, which greatly pleased
+him.&nbsp; We found the water was deep enough over the reef for the
+vessel, and good anchorage inside.&nbsp; We went on to the village,
+to see about the supply of water.</p>
+<p>The people were very friendly, and crowded round us.&nbsp; We were
+led up to a platform in front of one of their large houses, and there
+seated and regaled with cocoanuts.&nbsp; The natives here are much darker
+than are those at Kerepunu; most of them suffer from a very offensive-looking
+skin disease, which causes the skin to peel off in scales.&nbsp; In
+their conversation with one another I recognized several Polynesian
+words.&nbsp; The water is obtained by digging in the sand, and is very
+brackish.</p>
+<p>We came to anchor next morning, and soon were surrounded with canoes,
+and our deck swarmed with natives trading their curios, yams, cocoanuts,
+and fish for beads and hoop-iron.&nbsp; Many were swearing friendship,
+and exchanging names with us, in hopes of getting hoop-iron.&nbsp; There
+is as great a demand for hoop-iron here as for tobacco at Port Moresby.&nbsp;
+They told us they disliked fighting, but delighted in the dance, betel-nut,
+and sleep.&nbsp; The majority have jet black teeth, which they consider
+very beautiful, and all have their noses and ears pierced, with various
+sorts of nose and ear rings, chiefly made from shell, <!-- page 43--><a name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>inserted.&nbsp;
+A crown piece could easily be put through the lobe of their ears.</p>
+<p>We went ashore in the afternoon.&nbsp; There are three villages,
+all close to one another.&nbsp; Their houses are built on poles, and
+are shaped like a canoe turned bottom upwards, others like one in the
+water.&nbsp; They ornament their houses on the outside with cocoanuts
+and shells.&nbsp; The nabobs of the place had skulls on the posts of
+their houses, which they said belonged to the enemies they had killed
+and eaten.&nbsp; One skull was very much fractured; they told us it
+was done with a stone axe, and showed us how they used these weapons.</p>
+<p>We tried to explain to them that no one was to come to the vessel
+the next day, as it was a sacred day.&nbsp; In the early morning, some
+canoes came off to trade, but we sent them ashore; a few more followed
+about breakfast-time, which were also sent ashore.&nbsp; In the afternoon,
+our old friend of the preceding day came off, with his wife and two
+sons.&nbsp; He called out that he did not wish to come on board, but
+that he had brought some cooked food.&nbsp; We accepted his present,
+and he remained with his family in his canoe alongside the vessel for
+some time, and then went quietly ashore.&nbsp; We had three services
+on board, one in the forenoon in Lifuan, in the afternoon in Rarotongan,
+and in the evening in English.</p>
+<p>As Teste Island is about twenty miles from the mainland, with a dead
+beat to it, I decided to seek <!-- page 44--><a name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>for
+a position more accessible to New Guinea, and as I had not a teacher
+to spare for this little island, Mr. McFarlane decided to leave two
+of the Loyalty Island teachers here.&nbsp; It is fertile, and appears
+healthy, is two and a half miles long, and half a mile broad.&nbsp;
+A ridge of hills runs right through its centre from east-north-east
+to west-south-west.&nbsp; The natives have some fine plantations on
+the north side, and on the south and east sides they have yam plantations
+to the very tops of the hills.&nbsp; There are plantations and fruit-trees
+all round the island.</p>
+<p>On Monday, I accompanied Mr. McFarlane when he went ashore to make
+arrangements to land his teachers and secure a house for them.&nbsp;
+The people seemed pleased that some of our party would remain with them.&nbsp;
+Mr. McFarlane at once chose a house on a point of land a good way from
+our landing-place, and at the end of the most distant village.&nbsp;
+The owner was willing to give up the house until the teachers could
+build one for themselves, so it was at once taken and paid for.&nbsp;
+We came along to our old friend&rsquo;s place near the landing, when
+we were told that the house taken was a very bad one.&nbsp; In the first
+place, the position was unhealthy; in the second, that was the point
+where their enemies from Basilaki (Moresby Island) always landed when
+they came to fight, and the people could not protect the teachers if
+so far off when their foes came.&nbsp; All agreed in this, and a fine
+new house which had never been occupied <!-- page 45--><a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>was
+offered and taken, the same price being paid for it as for the other
+one.&nbsp; This house is close to the landing-place, and in the midst
+of the people.&nbsp; The owner of the first house offered to return
+the things, but we thought it would not be ruinous to let him keep them,
+their English value being about ten shillings.</p>
+<p>We passed a tabooed place, or rather would have done so had we not
+been forced to take a circuitous path to the bush.&nbsp; None of the
+natives spoke as we passed the place, nor till we were clear of it;
+they made signs also to us to be silent.&nbsp; A woman had died there
+lately, and the friends were still mourning.&nbsp; There had been no
+dancing in the settlement since the death, nor would there be any for
+some days to come.</p>
+<p>I think women are more respected here than they are in some other
+heathen lands.&nbsp; They seem to keep fast hold of their own possessions.&nbsp;
+A man stole an ornament belonging to his wife, and sold it for hoop-iron
+on board the <i>Bertha</i>.&nbsp; When he went ashore he was met on
+the beach by his spouse, who had in the meantime missed her trinket;
+she assailed him with tongue, stick, and stone, and demanded the hoop-iron.</p>
+<p>The teachers were landed in the afternoon, and were well received.&nbsp;
+The natives all promised to care for them, and treat them kindly.&nbsp;
+There are about two hundred and fifty natives on the island.&nbsp; No
+<i>Ellengowan</i> appearing, we determined to leave this on <!-- page 46--><a name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 46</span>Wednesday,
+the 21st, and to proceed to Moresby Island.&nbsp; Next morning we left,
+but, owing to light winds, we did not anchor in Hoop-Iron Bay, off Moresby
+Island, till the morning of the 22nd.&nbsp; The anchorage here is in
+an open roadstead.&nbsp; It is a very fine island&mdash;the vegetation
+from the water&rsquo;s edge right up to the mountain tops.&nbsp; Plantations
+are to be seen all round.&nbsp; The people live in small detached companies,
+and are not so pleasant and friendly-looking a people as are the Teste
+islanders.&nbsp; This is the great Basilaki, and the natives are apparently
+the deadly foes of all the islanders round.&nbsp; Before we anchored,
+we were surrounded by catamarans (three small logs lashed together)
+and canoes&mdash;spears in them all.</p>
+<p>Mr. McFarlane decided, as soon as we came to the island, that he
+would not land his teachers here; and I did not consider it a suitable
+place as a head station for New Guinea.&nbsp; We left Moresby Island
+at six a.m. on the 23rd inst., and beat through Fortescue Straits, between
+Moresby and Basilisk Islands.&nbsp; The scenery was grand&mdash;everything
+looked so fresh and green, very different from the deathlike appearance
+of Port Moresby and vicinity.&nbsp; The four teachers were close behind
+us, in their large whale-boat, with part of their things.&nbsp; On getting
+out of the Straits, we saw East Cape; but, as there was no anchorage
+there, we made for Killerton Island, about ten miles from the Cape.&nbsp;
+The wind being very light, it was eight p.m. before we anchored: the
+boat got up an hour after <!-- page 47--><a name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>us.&nbsp;
+There was apparently great excitement ashore; lights were moving about
+in all directions, but none came to us.&nbsp; In the morning, a catamaran
+with two boys ventured alongside of us; they got a present, and went
+away shouting.&nbsp; Soon we were surrounded with catamarans and canoes,
+with three or four natives in each.&nbsp; They had no spears with them,
+nor did they kill a dog on our quarter-deck, as they did on that of
+the <i>Basilisk</i>.&nbsp; They appeared quite friendly, and free from
+shyness.&nbsp; They brought their curios to barter for beads, red cloth,
+and the much-valued hoop-iron.&nbsp; The whole country looked productive
+and beautiful.&nbsp; After breakfast, we went ashore, and were led through
+swampy ground to see the water.&nbsp; On our return to the shore, we
+went in search of a position for the mission settlement, but could not
+get one far enough away from the swamp, so we took the boat and sailed
+a mile or two nearer the Cape, where we found an excellent position
+near a river.&nbsp; Mr. McFarlane obtained a fine new house for the
+teachers, in which they are to remain till they get a house built.&nbsp;
+We took all the teachers&rsquo; goods ashore, which the natives helped
+to carry to the house.&nbsp; One man, who considered himself well dressed,
+kept near us all day.&nbsp; He had a pair of trousers, minus a leg:
+he fastened the body of the trousers round his head, and let the leg
+fall gracefully down his back.</p>
+<p>On the following morning, two large canoes&mdash;twenty <!-- page 48--><a name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 48</span>paddles
+in each&mdash;came in from somewhere about Milne Bay.&nbsp; They remained
+for some time near the shore, getting all the news they could about
+us from the shore-folk; then the leader amongst them stood up and caught
+his nose, and pointed to his stomach&mdash;we doing the same.&nbsp;
+The large canoes went ashore, and the chief came off to us in a small
+one.&nbsp; We gave him a present, which greatly pleased him.&nbsp; After
+breakfast, we went ashore to hold a service with the teachers.&nbsp;
+We met under a large tree, near their house.&nbsp; About six hundred
+natives were about us, and all round outside of the crowd were men armed
+with spears and clubs.&nbsp; Mr. McFarlane preached.&nbsp; When the
+first hymn was being sung, a number of women and children got up and
+ran into the bush.&nbsp; The service was short; at its close we sat
+down and sang hymns, which seemed to amuse them greatly.&nbsp; The painted
+and armed men were not at all pleasant-looking fellows.</p>
+<p>At two in the morning (Monday), we weighed anchor and returned to
+Moresby Island.&nbsp; The wind was very light, and we had to anchor
+at the entrance to Fortescue Straits.&nbsp; Next morning, we sailed
+through the Straits, and, on coming out on the opposite side, we were
+glad to see the <i>Bertha</i> beating about there.&nbsp; By noon we
+were on board the <i>Bertha</i>, and off for South Cape, the <i>Mayri</i>
+going to Teste Island with a letter, telling the captain of the <i>Ellengowan</i>
+to follow us, and also to see if the teachers were all right.</p>
+<p><!-- page 49--><a name="page49"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 49</span>By
+evening we were well up to South Cape.&nbsp; The captain did not care
+to get too near that night, and stood away till morning.&nbsp; About
+ten next morning I accompanied the captain in the boat, to sound and
+look for anchorage, which we found in twenty-two fathoms, near South-West
+Point.&nbsp; By half-past fire that evening we anchored.&nbsp; The excitement
+ashore was great, and before the anchor was really down we were surrounded
+by canoes.&nbsp; As a people, they are small and puny, and much darker
+than the Eastern Polynesians.&nbsp; They were greatly excited over Pi&rsquo;s
+baby, a fine plump little fellow, seven months old, who, beside them,
+seemed a white child.&nbsp; Indeed, all they saw greatly astonished
+them.&nbsp; Canoes came off to us very early in the morning.&nbsp; About
+half-past seven, when we were ready to go ashore, there arose great
+consternation amongst the natives.&nbsp; Three large war canoes, with
+conch-shells blowing, appeared off the mainland and paddled across the
+Mayri Straits.&nbsp; Soon a large war canoe appeared near the vessel.&nbsp;
+A great many small canoes from various parts of the mainland were ordered
+off by those on whose side we were anchored.&nbsp; They had to leave.&nbsp;
+On their departure a great shout was raised by the victorious party,
+and in a short time all returned quietly to their bartering.&nbsp; It
+seemed that the Stacy Islanders wished to keep all the bartering to
+themselves.&nbsp; They did not wish the rest to obtain hoop-iron or
+any other foreign wealth.&nbsp; They are at feud with one <!-- page 50--><a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 50</span>party
+on the mainland, and I suppose in their late contests have been victorious,
+for they told us with great exultation that they had lately killed and
+eaten ten of their enemies from the mainland.</p>
+<p>About nine, we went ashore near the anchorage.&nbsp; I crossed the
+island to the village, but did not feel satisfied as to the position.&nbsp;
+One of our guides to the village wore, as an armlet, the jawbone of
+a man from the mainland he had killed and eaten; others strutted about
+with human bones dangling from their hair, and about their necks.&nbsp;
+It is only the village Tepauri on the mainland with which they are unfriendly.&nbsp;
+We returned to the boat, and sailed along the coast.&nbsp; On turning
+a cape, we came to a pretty village, on a well-wooded point.&nbsp; The
+people were friendly, and led us to see the water, of which there is
+a good supply.&nbsp; This is the spot for which we have been in search
+as a station for beginning work.&nbsp; We can go anywhere from here,
+and are surrounded by villages.&nbsp; The mainland is not more than
+a gunshot across.&nbsp; God has led us.&nbsp; We made arrangements for
+a house for the teachers; then returned to the vessel.</p>
+<p>In the afternoon, I landed the teachers, their wives, and part of
+their goods&mdash;the people helping to carry the stuff to the house.&nbsp;
+The house in which the teachers are to reside till our own is finished
+is the largest in the place, but they can only get the use of one end
+of it&mdash;the owner, who considers himself the chief man of the place,
+requiring the other end for <!-- page 51--><a name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 51</span>himself
+and family.&nbsp; The partition between the two ends is only two feet
+high.&nbsp; Skulls, shells, and cocoanuts are hung all about the house;
+the skulls are those of the enemies he and his people have eaten.&nbsp;
+Inside the house, hung up on the wall, is a very large collection of
+human bones, bones of animals and of fish.</p>
+<p>I selected a spot for our house on the point of land nearest the
+mainland.&nbsp; It is a large sand hill, and well wooded at the back.&nbsp;
+We have a good piece of land, with bread-fruit and other fruit trees
+on it, which I hope soon to have cleared and planted with food, for
+the benefit of the teachers who may be here awaiting their stations,
+as well as for the teacher for the place.&nbsp; The frontage is the
+Straits, with the mainland right opposite.&nbsp; There is a fine anchorage
+close to the house for vessels of any size.</p>
+<p>Early next morning there was great excitement ashore.&nbsp; The large
+war canoe came off, with drums beating and men dancing.&nbsp; They came
+alongside the <i>Bertha</i>, and presented us with a small pig and food.&nbsp;
+Then the men came on board and danced.&nbsp; The captain gave them a
+return present.&nbsp; Mr. McFarlane and I went ashore immediately after
+breakfast, and found that the teachers had been kindly treated.&nbsp;
+We gave some natives a few axes, who at once set off to cut wood for
+the house, and before we returned to the vessel in the evening two posts
+were up.&nbsp; As the <i>Bertha&rsquo;s</i> time was up, and the season
+for the trade winds closing, everything was done to get on with <!-- page 52--><a name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 52</span>the
+house.&nbsp; Mr. McFarlane worked well.&nbsp; Two men from the <i>Bertha</i>,
+and two from the <i>Mayri</i> joined with the four teachers in the work,
+and by Tuesday the framework was nearly up.&nbsp; We landed our things
+that day, and immediately after breakfast on Wednesday, December 5th,
+we went ashore to reside; and about ten a.m. the <i>Bertha</i> left.&nbsp;
+On the Tuesday, Mr. McFarlane and I visited several villages on the
+mainland: three in a deep bay, which must be very unhealthy, from the
+many swamps and high mountains around.&nbsp; The people appeared friendly,
+and got very excited over the presents we gave them.</p>
+<p>We got an old foretopsail from the captain, which we rigged up as
+a tent, in which the teachers slept, we occupying their quarters.&nbsp;
+We enjoyed a good night&rsquo;s rest.&nbsp; In early morning the house
+was surrounded with natives, many of whom were armed.&nbsp; They must
+wonder at our staying here: they consider our goods to consist entirely
+of hoop-iron, axes, knives, and arrowroot.&nbsp; About eleven a.m. the
+war canoes were launched on the opposite side of the water.&nbsp; The
+excitement here was then great.&nbsp; I met a lad running with painted
+skulls to the war canoe of the village.&nbsp; Soon it was decorated
+with skulls, shells, cocoanuts, and streamers, and launched.&nbsp; Those
+on the opposite side came out into the deep bay; ours remained stationary
+till the afternoon, when about thirty men got into her, and away towards
+Farm Bay to trade their hoop-iron for sago.</p>
+<p><!-- page 53--><a name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>On
+Sunday, we met for our usual public services under a large tree, and
+a number of natives attended, who of course could not make out what
+was said, as they were conducted in Rarotongan.&nbsp; At our morning
+and evening prayers numbers are always about who seem to enjoy the singing.&nbsp;
+We see quite a number of strangers every day&mdash;some from Brumer
+Island, Tissot, Teste, China Straits, Catamaran Bay, Farm Bay, and other
+places.&nbsp; Those from Vakavaka&mdash;a place over by China Straits&mdash;are
+lighter and better-looking than those here.&nbsp; The women there do
+not seem to tattoo themselves.&nbsp; Here they tattoo themselves all
+over their faces and bodies, and make themselves look very ugly.&nbsp;
+I have not seen one large man or woman amongst them all.</p>
+<p>We had much difficulty in getting a sufficient supply of plaited
+cocoanut leaves for the walls and roof of our house.&nbsp; By the 14th,
+we had the walls and roof finished, when all our party moved into it.&nbsp;
+We had a curtain of unbleached calico put up between the teachers&rsquo;
+end and ours, and curtains for doors and windows, but were glad to get
+into it in that unfinished state: the weather was breaking, and we felt
+anxious about the teachers sleeping in the tent when it rained, and
+we had no privacy at all where we were, and were tired of squatting
+on the ground, for we could not get a chair in our part of the house;
+indeed, the flooring was of such a construction that the legs of a chair
+or table would have <!-- page 54--><a name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>soon
+gone through it.&nbsp; On the 13th, we were busy getting the wood we
+had cut for the flooring of our house into the sea to be rafted along;
+got ten large pieces into the water by breakfast-time.</p>
+<p>After breakfast, Mrs. Chalmers and I were at the new house, with
+the captain of the <i>Mayri</i>, when we heard a noise like quarrelling.&nbsp;
+On looking out, I saw the natives very excited, and many of them running
+with spears and clubs towards the house where Mrs. Chalmers, about five
+minutes before, had left the teachers rising from breakfast.&nbsp; I
+hastened over, and pushed my way amongst the natives till I got to the
+front, when, to my horror, I was right in front of a gun aimed by one
+of the <i>Mayri&rsquo;s</i> crew (who had been helping us with the house)
+at a young man brandishing a spear.&nbsp; The aim was perfect: had the
+gun been fired&mdash;as it would have been had I not arrived in time&mdash;the
+native would have been shot dead.&nbsp; I pushed the native aside, and
+ordered the gun to be put down, and turned to the natives, shouting,
+<i>Besi</i>, <i>besi</i>! (Enough, enough!).&nbsp; Some of them returned
+their spears and clubs, but others remained threatening.&nbsp; I spoke
+to our party against using firearms, and then I caught the youth who
+was flourishing his spear, and with difficulty got it from him.&nbsp;
+Poor fellow, he cried with rage, yet he did me no harm.&nbsp; I clapped
+him, and got him to go away.&nbsp; All day he sat under a tree, which
+we had frequently to pass, but he would have nothing to say to us.&nbsp;
+It seems a knife <!-- page 55--><a name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 55</span>had
+been stolen, and he being the only one about the house when it was missed,
+was accused of taking it.&nbsp; One of the teachers was winding line,
+and he caught the young fellow by the arm to inquire about the knife.&nbsp;
+The lad thought he was going to be tied up with the line; he struggled,
+got free, and raised the alarm.</p>
+<p>Only the night before I had to warn the teachers against using firearms
+to alarm or threaten the natives.&nbsp; An axe was stolen; every place
+about was searched for it, and for some time without its being found.&nbsp;
+At last, a native found it buried in the sand near where it was last
+used.&nbsp; It had evidently been hidden there till a favourable opportunity
+should occur of taking it away.&nbsp; During the search, the owner of
+the axe (one of the teachers) ran off for his gun, and came rushing
+over with it.&nbsp; I ordered him to take it back, and in the evening
+told them it was only in New Guinea that guns were used by missionaries.&nbsp;
+It was not so in any other mission I knew of, and if we could not live
+amongst the natives without arms, we had better remain at home; and
+if I saw arms used again by them for anything, except birds, or the
+like, I should have the whole of them thrown into the sea.</p>
+<p>In the afternoon of the 14th, I went over to the house in which we
+had been staying, to stir up the teachers to get the things over more
+quickly; Mrs. Chalmers remaining at the new house to look after the
+things there, as, without doors or flooring, everything <!-- page 56--><a name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 56</span>was
+exposed.&nbsp; I went to the seaside to call to the captain of the <i>Mayri</i>
+to send us the boat ashore, when, on looking towards my left, I saw
+twenty armed natives hurrying along.&nbsp; Though painted, I recognized
+some of them as those who were very friendly on board the <i>Bertha</i>,
+and spoke to them; but they hurried past, frowning and saying something
+I did not understand.&nbsp; They went straight on to the chief&rsquo;s
+house, and surrounded our party.&nbsp; I passed through, and stood in
+front of them.&nbsp; One very ugly-looking customer was brandishing
+his spear close by me.&nbsp; It was an anxious moment, and one in which
+I am sure many would have used firearms.&nbsp; I called out to the teachers,
+&ldquo;Remain quiet.&rdquo;&nbsp; Our chief sprung out on to the platform
+in front of the house and harangued.&nbsp; He was very excited.&nbsp;
+Shortly he called to the teachers, in signs and words, to bring out
+their guns and fire.&nbsp; They refused.&nbsp; He then rushed into the
+house and seized a gun, and was making off with it, when one of the
+teachers caught hold of him.&nbsp; I, seeing the teacher with the chief,
+thought something was wrong, and went to them.&nbsp; We quieted him,
+and did our best to explain to him that we were no fighters, but men
+of peace.&nbsp; The babel all round us was terrible.&nbsp; By-and-by
+a request was made to me to give the chief from the other side a present,
+and get him away.&nbsp; I said, &ldquo;No; had he come in peace, and
+as a chief, I would have given him a present, but I will not do so now.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+They retired to deliberate, and sent <!-- page 57--><a name="page57"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 57</span>another
+request for a present.&nbsp; &ldquo;No; no presents to men in arms.&nbsp;
+If the chief returns to-morrow unarmed, he will get a present.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+It seems they are vexed with our living here instead of with them, because
+they find those here are getting what they consider very rich by our
+living with them.&nbsp; When quiet was restored, we returned to the
+carrying of our things.&nbsp; When we came to the last few things, our
+chief objected to their removal until he got a farewell present.&nbsp;
+He had been paid for the use of the house before any of us entered it;
+but we gave him another present, and so finished the business.</p>
+<p>Our large cross-cut saw was stolen during the hubbub.&nbsp; It belonged
+to the teachers of East Cape.&nbsp; It had only been lent to us, so
+we had to get it back.&nbsp; The next morning the chief from the other
+side came to see me.&nbsp; He received a present, and looked particularly
+sheepish when I tried to explain to him that we did not like fighting.&nbsp;
+All day I took care to show that I was very displeased at the loss of
+the saw, and by the evening I was told that it had been taken by those
+on the other side; and offers of returning it were made, but I saw I
+was expected to buy it from them.&nbsp; I said, &ldquo;No; I will not
+buy what was stolen from me; the saw must be returned, and I will give
+an axe to the one who goes for it, and fetches it to me.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The following day, Sunday, the 15th, we held the usual services under
+a large tree near the mission house; a great many strangers present;
+the latter were <!-- page 58--><a name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>very
+troublesome.&nbsp; On Monday afternoon the saw was returned.&nbsp; The
+<i>Mayri</i> left us that day, to visit the teachers at East Cape.&nbsp;
+The people are getting quieter.&nbsp; At present they are chiefly interested
+in the sawing of the wood for the flooring of the house.&nbsp; They
+work willingly for a piece of hoop-iron and a few beads, but cannot
+do much continuously.&nbsp; They seem to have no kind of worship, and
+their sports are few.&nbsp; The children swing, bathe, and sail small
+canoes.&nbsp; The grown-up people have their dance&mdash;a very poor
+sort of thing.&nbsp; A band of youths, with drums, stand close together,
+and in a most monotonous tone sing whilst they beat the drums.&nbsp;
+The dancers dance round the men once or twice, and all stop to rest
+a bit.&nbsp; I have been twice present when only the women danced.&nbsp;
+They bury their dead, and place houses over the graves, which they fence
+round, planting crotons, bananas, etc., inside.&nbsp; They do their
+cooking inside their houses.&nbsp; It was very hot and uncomfortable
+when we were in the native house.&nbsp; The master being a sort of chief,
+and having a large household, a great deal of cooking was required.&nbsp;
+Three large fires were generally burning in their end of the house for
+the greater part of the day.&nbsp; The heat and smoke from these fires
+were not nice.&nbsp; Indeed, they generally had one or two burning all
+night, to serve for blankets, I suppose.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/59b.jpg">
+<img alt="Natives of South-Eastern New Guinea" src="images/59s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>We went on with our work about the place, getting on well with the
+natives and with those from other parts.&nbsp; We became so friendly
+with the natives that I <!-- page 61--><a name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>had
+hoped to go about with them in their canoes.&nbsp; Several natives from
+one of the settlements invited me to visit their place, and said if
+I went with them in their canoe they would return me.&nbsp; I went with
+them, and was well received by all the people at the settlement, where
+I spent some hours.&nbsp; On the 21st of December, the <i>Mayri</i>
+returned from East Cape, and reported that all were sick, but that the
+people were very friendly and kind to teachers.&nbsp; Anxious to keep
+the vessel employed, and to prepare the way for landing teachers, I
+resolved to visit a settlement on the mainland at deadly feud with this
+people.&nbsp; The people here tried hard to dissuade me from going,
+telling me that, as I stayed with them, my head would be cut off.&nbsp;
+Seeing me determined to go, they brought skulls, saying, mine would
+be like that, to adorn their enemies&rsquo; war canoe, or hang outside
+the chief&rsquo;s house.&nbsp; Feeling sure that they did not wish me
+to go because they were afraid the hoop-iron, the knives, axes, beads,
+and cloth might also be distributed on the other side, I told them I
+must go; so they left me to my fate.</p>
+<p>I took the teacher with me that I hoped to leave there.&nbsp; We
+were received very kindly by the people.&nbsp; They led us inland, to
+show us there was water, and when we got back to the seaside they regaled
+us with sugar-cane and cocoanuts.&nbsp; They then told us that they
+did not live at the village, but at the next, and merely came here for
+food.&nbsp; We then got into a canoe, and were paddled up to the other
+village, where a great <!-- page 62--><a name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span>crowd
+assembled, and where we publicly gave the chiefs our presents.&nbsp;
+They danced with delight, and told the teacher not to be long until
+he came to reside with them.</p>
+<p>On our return we thought our friends seemed disappointed.&nbsp; We
+had suffered no harm; however, as I had been unwell for some days, and
+felt worse on the day following my trip, they felt comforted, and assured
+me it was because of our visiting Tepauri.&nbsp; We had several things
+stolen, and amongst other things a camp oven, which we miss much.&nbsp;
+Yet these are things which must be borne, and we can hope that some
+day their stealing propensities will change.&nbsp; From a very unexpected
+source, and in a very unexpected manner, the whole prospects of this
+eastern mission seemed all at once to be upset.&nbsp; I do not think
+I can do better than extract my journal for the next few days.</p>
+<p><i>December</i> 29<i>th</i>.&mdash;About twelve o&rsquo;clock three
+lads from the <i>Mayri</i> came ashore to cut firewood.&nbsp; One of
+them came to me, saying, &ldquo;I &rsquo;fraid, sir, our captain he
+too fast with natives.&nbsp; One big fellow he come on board, and he
+sit down below.&nbsp; Captain he tell him get up; he no get up.&nbsp;
+Captain he get sword, and he tell him, s&rsquo;pose he no get up he
+cut head off; he get up, go ashore.&nbsp; I fear he no all right.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+They left me and went towards the sawpit.&nbsp; Some men were clearing
+at the back of my house, some were putting up a cook-house, and the
+teachers were sawing wood.&nbsp; On the cook-house being finished, I
+was paying the men, when, on <!-- page 63--><a name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 63</span>hearing
+a great noise, I rose up and saw those who were at the sawpit running
+away and leaping the fence, and heard firing as if from the vessel.&nbsp;
+I rushed into the house with my bag, and then out to see what it was.&nbsp;
+I saw natives on board the <i>Mayri</i>, and some in canoes; they were
+getting the hawser ashore, and pulling up the anchor, no doubt to take
+the vessel.&nbsp; Everywhere natives were appearing, some armed, and
+others unarmed.&nbsp; Two of the lads from the vessel, wishing to get
+on board, went to their boat, but found the natives would not let it
+go.&nbsp; I shouted to the natives detaining it to let it go, which
+they did.&nbsp; Had I not been near, they would certainly have been
+fired upon by the two lads, who were armed with muskets.&nbsp; Before
+the boat got to the vessel I saw natives jump overboard, and soon the
+firing became brisker.&nbsp; I rushed along the beach, calling upon
+the natives to get into the bush, and to those on board to cease firing.&nbsp;
+Firing ceased, and soon I heard great wailing at the chief&rsquo;s house,
+where I was pressed to go.&nbsp; A man was shot through the leg and
+arm.&nbsp; On running through the village to the house, to get something
+for the wounded man, I was stopped to see a young man bleeding profusely,
+shot through the left arm, the bullet entering the chest.&nbsp; I got
+some medicine and applied it to both.</p>
+<p>When I reached the house, I found Mrs. Chalmers the only calm person
+there.&nbsp; Natives were all around armed.&nbsp; When at the chief&rsquo;s
+house with medicine I was told there was still another, and he was on
+board.&nbsp; <!-- page 64--><a name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>They
+kept shouting &ldquo;Bocasi, Bocasi,&rdquo; the name of the man who
+was on board in the morning.&nbsp; I found a small canoe all over blood,
+and two natives paddled me off.&nbsp; On getting alongside, I saw the
+captain sitting on deck, looking very white, and blood all about him.&nbsp;
+I asked, &ldquo;Is there still a man on board?&rdquo;&nbsp; Answer:
+&ldquo;Yes.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Is he shot?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Yes.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Dead?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Yes.&rdquo;&nbsp; He was dead, and
+lying below.&nbsp; I was afraid to remain long on board, and would not
+risk landing with the body; nor would it do for the body to be landed
+before me, as then I might be prevented from landing at all; so I got
+into the canoe, in which one native was sitting.&nbsp; The other was
+getting the body to place in the canoe; but I said, &ldquo;Not in this
+one, but a larger one.&rdquo;&nbsp; So ashore I went, and hastened to
+the house.&nbsp; I understood the captain to say that they attempted
+to take his life, and this big man, armed with a large sugar-cane knife,
+was coming close up, and he shot him dead.&nbsp; The captain&rsquo;s
+foot was frightfully cut.&nbsp; He had a spear-head in his side, and
+several other wounds.</p>
+<p>The principal people seemed friendly, and kept assuring us that all
+was right, we should not be harmed.&nbsp; Great was the wailing when
+the body was landed, and arms were up and down pretty frequently.&nbsp;
+Canoes began to crowd in from the regions around.&nbsp; A man who has
+all along been very friendly and kept close by us advised us strongly
+to leave during the night, as, assuredly, when the war canoes from the
+<!-- page 65--><a name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 65</span>different
+parts came in, we should be murdered.&nbsp; Mrs. Chalmers decidedly
+opposed our leaving.&nbsp; God would protect us.&nbsp; The vessel was
+too small, and not provisioned, and to leave would be losing our position
+as well as endangering Teste and East Cape.&nbsp; We came here for Christ&rsquo;s
+work, and He would protect us.</p>
+<p>In the dusk, one of the crew came ashore, saying that the captain
+was very ill, and wanted to go off to Murray Island.&nbsp; I could not
+go on board, and leave them here.&nbsp; We consented to the vessel&rsquo;s
+leaving, and I gave the lad some medicine for the captain, and asked
+him to send on shore all he could spare in the way of beads, etc.&nbsp;
+I took all that was necessary, and about half-past seven the vessel
+left.&nbsp; We were told we should have to pay something to smooth over
+the trouble, which we were quite willing to do.&nbsp; Late at night
+we had things ready.&nbsp; We had our evening prayers in Rarotongan,
+reading Psalm xlvi., and feeling that God was truly our refuge.</p>
+<p>People were early about on the 30th.&nbsp; We gave the things which
+were prepared, and they were accepted.&nbsp; The people from the settlement
+to which the man belonged who was shot came to attack us, but the people
+here ordered them back.&nbsp; Many people came in from islands and mainland.&nbsp;
+A number of so-called chiefs tell us no one will injure us, and that
+we can go on with our work.&nbsp; We thought it not well to have services
+out of doors to-day, so held prayer-meetings in the house.</p>
+<p><!-- page 66--><a name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>Great
+crowds came in from all round on the 31st, and many war canoes.&nbsp;
+The people were extremely impudent, jumping the fence, and taking no
+heed of what we said.&nbsp; One of the chief men of the settlement to
+which the man who was shot belongs returned from Vaare (Teste Island).&nbsp;
+He seemed friendly, and I gave him a present.</p>
+<p>I had an invitation to attend a cannibal feast at one of the settlements.&nbsp;
+Some said it would consist of two men and a child, others of five and
+a child.</p>
+<p>The people continued troublesome all day, and seemed to think we
+had nothing else to do than attend to their demands.</p>
+<p><i>January</i> 1<i>st</i>, 1878.&mdash;We were told we might be attacked.&nbsp;
+There was a great wailing assembly at the other village.&nbsp; A canoe
+from Tanosine, with a great many ugly-looking men, passed, and our friends
+here seemed to fear they would attack us.&nbsp; We thought everything
+settled, and that we should have no more to pay.&nbsp; The warp belonging
+to the <i>Mayri</i> was carried past to-day and offered for sale; but
+I would have nothing to do with it.&nbsp; We have tried the meek and
+quiet up till now, and they only become more impudent and threatening.</p>
+<p>Having tried the peaceful and pleasant, we determined to show the
+natives that we were not afraid, and resisted every demand, and insisted
+that there should be no more leaping the fence.&nbsp; On demands being
+made, I shouted, &ldquo;No more; wait, and when <!-- page 67--><a name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 67</span>Beritama
+fighting canoe comes, then make your demands.&rdquo;&nbsp; They seemed
+afraid, and became less troublesome.</p>
+<p>In the afternoon of January 2nd, the parties who have the hawser
+brought it to me; but I would have nothing to do with it.&nbsp; I told
+them if Pouairo, the settlement of the man who was shot, determines
+to attack us, let them come, we, too, can fight.&nbsp; One of the teachers
+fired off his gun at some distance from a bread-fruit tree, and the
+bullet went clean through a limb of it; it caused great exclamations,
+and crowds went to look at it.</p>
+<p>The hawser was returned and left outside.&nbsp; We took no notice
+of it.&nbsp; The people were much quieter, and no demands were made.&nbsp;
+The cannibal feast was held.&nbsp; Some of our friends appeared with
+pieces of human flesh dangling from their neck and arms.&nbsp; The child
+was spared for a future time, it being considered too small.&nbsp; Amidst
+all the troubles Mrs. Chalmers was the only one who kept calm and well.</p>
+<p>The <i>Ellengowan</i> arrived on January 20th.&nbsp; The natives
+were beginning to think no vessel would come; but when it arrived, they
+were frightened, and willing to forget the <i>Mayri</i> affair.&nbsp;
+A few days before she arrived some of our friends warned us against
+going too far away from the house.&nbsp; After her arrival we were able
+to go about among the people again.</p>
+<h2><!-- page 68--><a name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 68</span>CHAPTER
+II.&nbsp; A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS.</h2>
+<p>Start eastwards from Heath Island&mdash;Naroopoo&mdash;Trading with
+Natives&mdash;Landing at Roux Island&mdash;Interview with the Chief&mdash;The
+Man with the club&mdash;Effect of a gunshot on the natives&mdash;Ellengowan
+Bay&mdash;Narrow Escape&mdash;The steam-whistle useful&mdash;Attempt
+to go inland unsuccessful&mdash;Amazons&mdash;Women chief instigators
+of quarrels&mdash;Toulon Island&mdash;The real &ldquo;Amazons&rsquo;
+Land&rdquo;&mdash;How the report arose&mdash;Cloudy Bay&mdash;Interview
+with the Chief&mdash;Sandbank Bay&mdash;A hurried time&mdash;Dufaure
+Island&mdash;Attack on Mr. Chalmers by Aroma natives&mdash;Defended
+by some of the natives&mdash;Attack due to evil conduct of white men&mdash;Intentions
+of the natives&mdash;Heathen customs&mdash;Pigs&mdash;Planting&mdash;Trading&mdash;Sickness.</p>
+<p>The <i>Ellengowan</i> had been thoroughly refitted at Sydney; and
+in the spring of 1878, accompanied by my wife, I embarked on a cruise
+from east to west along the south coast of New Guinea.&nbsp; The little
+steamer was commanded by Captain Dudfield, and manned by an efficient
+native crew.&nbsp; Communication was held with some two hundred villages,
+one hundred and five were personally visited, and ninety for the first
+time by a white man.&nbsp; Several bays, harbours, rivers, and islands
+were discovered and named; the country between Meikle and Orangerie
+Bays, together with that lying at the back of Kerepunu was explored,
+<!-- page 69--><a name="page69"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 69</span>and
+the entire coast line from Keppel Point to McFarlane Harbour, traversed
+on foot.</p>
+<p>In travelling through a new country, it is impossible not to have
+many experiences that may interest those at home, although to the traveller
+they may seem of little moment.&nbsp; In May, 1878, I began my journeys
+on New Guinea, in parts hereto unknown, and amongst tribes supposed
+to be hostile.&nbsp; I resolved, come what might, to travel unarmed,
+trusting to Him in whose work I was engaged, and feeling that no harm
+could come to me while in His care.</p>
+<p>On leaving Heath Island, we really began on new and little-known
+seas and country, and we first anchored in a bay we called Inverary
+Bay.&nbsp; On landing, we were met by a few men, the others coming out
+with goods and chattels.&nbsp; We steamed round by the Leocadie, through
+what forms a good harbour for small vessels, and over by the sandbanks
+in Catamaran Bay.&nbsp; We called at Tanosina, to the east of the Leocadie,
+landing with caution, as these people had been rather troublesome on
+our first arrival at South Cape, and were very anxious to avenge the
+man shot on board the <i>Mayri</i>.&nbsp; They did not receive us heartily,
+and seemed inclined to be impudent, so I thought it best, after giving
+one or two presents, to get quietly to the boat and away.&nbsp; I may
+here say that in after-times these people were very friendly, and helped
+us much in our work.&nbsp; We visited all round the bay, returning to
+South Cape.</p>
+<p><!-- page 70--><a name="page70"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 70</span>After
+getting a supply of water and fuel on board, we started again, going
+east round Rugged Head to Farm Bay, and well up to the head of the bay,
+anchoring opposite to Naroopoo.&nbsp; I landed, and soon had an admiring
+crowd round me.&nbsp; I was dressed in white, with black leather boots.&nbsp;
+Sitting on a verandah, some, more daring than others, would come up,
+touch my shirt and trousers, bite their fingers, and run away.&nbsp;
+Again and again this was done by the bold ones, who always eyed my boots.&nbsp;
+After consultation, one old woman mustered courage, came up, touched
+my trousers, and finally my boots.&nbsp; She was trembling all over,
+but horror of horrors, to add to her fear, lifting my foot, I pulled
+my boot off; she screamed and ran, some others setting out with her,
+and did not stop until quite out of sight.</p>
+<p>After visiting several villages, and finding that the bay was thickly
+populated, I went on board.&nbsp; The following morning many canoes
+came alongside, and on our getting up steam were much afraid.&nbsp;
+It was evident they wanted to show us that they had confidence in us,
+but it was difficult with the steam up, the snorting and general commotion
+on board being so great.&nbsp; We warned them on getting up anchor to
+clear off.&nbsp; Why should they?&nbsp; There was no sail, nor were
+we going to move.&nbsp; A commotion aft, canoes with crews clearing
+away to a very safe distance.&nbsp; One canoe hanging on is pulled under,
+a wild shout, a moment&rsquo;s silence, and then there is a loud roar
+of <!-- page 71--><a name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span>laughter,
+when they see canoe and paddlers appear astern at some distance.&nbsp;
+We rounded One Tree Point and could see no entrance to a bay, just a
+few miles beyond, but since explored and named Lawes Bay.&nbsp; Keeping
+on, we anchored outside of the Roux Islands, in a fine safe harbour.&nbsp;
+Before leaving our friends at South Cape, they were boasting of having
+visited some place on the coast, where, on showing their large knives,
+the natives all left, they helping themselves to a good many things.</p>
+<p>We had some difficulty in getting a canoe to come alongside, and
+it was not until we had fastened a piece of red cloth to a stick and
+floated it astern, that the first canoe would come near.&nbsp; The natives
+approached, picked up the red cloth, and in showing them pieces of hoop-iron,
+they gradually came near enough to take hold of a piece, look well at
+it, and finally decide to come alongside.&nbsp; Once alongside we were
+soon fraternizing, and on seeing this other canoes came off, and trading
+for curios began.&nbsp; Asking the captain to keep on trading as long
+as possible, I hastened ashore, to see the chief of one of the villages.&nbsp;
+As long as trading canoes remain alongside, the parties landing are
+perfectly safe; care should be taken to get away as soon as possible
+after the canoes leave the vessel.</p>
+<p>The tide was far out when our boat touched the beach.&nbsp; A crowd
+met us, and in every hand was a club or spear.&nbsp; I went on to the
+bow, to spring ashore, <!-- page 72--><a name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 72</span>but
+was warned not to land.&nbsp; I told them I had come to see the chief,
+had a present for him, and must see him.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Give us your present, and we will give it to him, but you
+must not land.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I am Tamate, from Suau, and have come as a friend to visit
+your old chief, and I must land.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>An elderly woman came close up to the boat, saying, &ldquo;You must
+not land, but I will take the present, or,&rdquo; pointing to a young
+man close by, &ldquo;he will take it for his father,&rdquo; he being
+the chief&rsquo;s son.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No; I must see the chief for myself; but the son I should
+also like to know, and will give him a present too.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Springing ashore, followed by the mate, a fine, daring fellow, much
+accustomed to roughing it on the diggings, and not the least afraid
+of natives, I walked up the long beach to the village, to the chief&rsquo;s
+house.&nbsp; The old man was seated on the platform in front of the
+house, and did not even deign to rise to receive us.&nbsp; I told him
+who I was, and the object of my coming.&nbsp; He heard me through, and
+treated the whole as stale news.&nbsp; I placed my present on the platform
+in front of him, and waited for some word of satisfaction; but none
+escaped the stern old chieftain.&nbsp; Presents of beads were handed
+to little children in arms, but indignantly returned.&nbsp; Loud laughing
+in the outskirts of crowd and little jostling.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Gould,&rdquo; said I to the mate, &ldquo;I think we had <!-- page 73--><a name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 73</span>better
+get away from here; keep eyes all round, and let us make quietly to
+the beach.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>To the chief I said, &ldquo;Friend, I am going; you stay.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+Lifting his eyebrows, he said, &ldquo;Go.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>We were followed by the crowd, one man with a large round club walking
+behind me, and uncomfortably near.&nbsp; Had I that club in my hand,
+I should feel a little more comfortable.&nbsp; When on the beach we
+saw the canoes had left the vessel, and were hurrying ashore; our boat
+was soon afloat, still, we had some distance to go.&nbsp; I must have
+that club, or I fear that club will have me.&nbsp; I had a large piece
+of hoop-iron, such as is highly prized by the natives, in my satchel;
+taking it, I wheeled quickly round, presented it to the savage, whose
+eyes were dazzled as with a bar of gold.&nbsp; With my left hand I caught
+the club, and before he became conscious of what was done I was heading
+the procession, armed as a savage, and a good deal more comfortable.&nbsp;
+We got safely away.</p>
+<p>From Fyfe Bay we went round to Meikle Bay, where I visited all the
+villages, and was well received.&nbsp; Before landing I decided to walk
+inland, and see for myself if there was no arm of the sea running up
+at the back.&nbsp; The charts showed no such thing, but I felt sure,
+from the formation of the land and the manner of clouds hanging over
+it, that there must be a lake or some large sheet of water, and that
+there must be considerable streams carrying off the water of the Lorne
+Range and Cloudy Mountains, as no stream <!-- page 74--><a name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 74</span>of
+any size came to the sea on the coast-side.&nbsp; I got the chief of
+the village at the head of the bay and a large following to show us
+the way.&nbsp; We travelled for some miles through good country, and
+at last came out opposite a large sheet of water, stretching well up
+towards Cloudy Mountain and away towards the head of Milne Bay.&nbsp;
+Seeing the Stirling Range, I was able to take a few positions.</p>
+<p>Our mate, who had his fowling-piece with him, saw a very pretty parrot
+on a cocoanut tree.&nbsp; He approached until close under&mdash;the
+natives, about forty in number, standing breathlessly round, and wondering
+what was going to happen.&nbsp; Bang!&nbsp; Down dropped the parrot;
+a wail, hands to ears, a shout, and we were left alone with the chief,
+who happened to be standing close by me.&nbsp; Those natives only ceased
+running when they reached their homes.</p>
+<p>We visited several villages, and at sundown returned.&nbsp; In the
+dark we travelled along the bed of a creek, passing small villages,
+whose inhabitants were terribly alarmed, but none more so than our chief.&nbsp;
+Poor fellow, he <i>was</i> frightened.&nbsp; How nimbly he ascended
+his platform on our arrival at his house, where his two wives were crying,
+but now rejoiced to see him in the body.&nbsp; Long ago the escort had
+returned with a terrible tale, and they feared whether their husband
+could have lived through it all.&nbsp; But he was now considered a veritable
+hero, to be sung in song and shouted in dance.&nbsp; Friends gather
+round; <!-- page 75--><a name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>he
+tells his tale; presents the bird; the wives examine it, then the crowd
+of relatives.&nbsp; He afraid! oh dear no!&nbsp; But he looked pale
+for a native, and no quantity of hoop-iron would induce him to move
+from that platform and the side of those dear wives that night.&nbsp;
+Enough for one day, one month, one year, so, &ldquo;Good-bye, Tamate;
+I shall be off in the morning to see you.&rdquo;&nbsp; Arriving on board
+late, we were welcome: they feared we had been spirited away.</p>
+<p>The following day we got round to Ellengowan Bay.&nbsp; After visiting
+all the villages, I went right up to the head of the bay to see Silo
+and its chief.&nbsp; The tide was very low, and after pulling the boat
+some distance through mud we left her in charge of the two rowers, the
+mate and I going to the village.&nbsp; He had hoop-iron cut in seven-inch
+lengths in his pockets.&nbsp; The old chief received us graciously,
+and began giving me a long story of what he wished to do in the way
+of pigs and food, if I would only stay two days.&nbsp; It was a sickly
+looking hole, and not being quite rid of fever, I hoped to get on board
+and away in an hour.&nbsp; A large crowd gathered round, all under arms,
+very noisy, and certainly not gentle.&nbsp; A slight scuffle took place,
+but was soon over.&nbsp; The mate missed some of his hoop-iron, caught
+one young man with a piece, and took it from him.&nbsp; The crowd increased.&nbsp;
+I told the chief I should prefer his people unarmed, and not so noisy.&nbsp;
+He spoke to them, some put down their clubs and spears; but they were
+hidden in the bush <!-- page 76--><a name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 76</span>close
+by.&nbsp; We bade the chief good-bye, but he expressed a great wish
+to see me in the boat.&nbsp; Apparently with great carelessness, we
+made towards the beach, attended by a noisy crowd, all arms now picked
+up.&nbsp; Remembering the difficulty we had in landing, and knowing
+savages preferred killing out of their own villages, hospitality having
+ended when friends left the precincts, I determined not to have that
+crowd near the boat.&nbsp; I asked the chief to send them back; but
+to him they would not listen, and still the noisy crowd followed on.&nbsp;
+I shouted to them to return, and not come troubling us, as we were getting
+into the boat.&nbsp; No use; on they followed, and the boat they meant
+to visit.&nbsp; I stood still, and not feeling particularly cheerful,
+I told them to go on, and go off to the vessel&mdash;that I should wait
+and return to the village.&nbsp; Stamping my foot, as if in a towering
+passion, I told the chief, &ldquo;Go with all your people to the boat;
+as for me, I shall return.&rdquo;&nbsp; It had the desired effect.&nbsp;
+The people fled, and the few who remained listened to the old man, and
+came no further.&nbsp; We got to the boat and away, glad to escape without
+any unpleasantness.</p>
+<p>Entering Orangerie Bay, we anchored off the village of Daunai, from
+which the whole district takes its name.&nbsp; When here, our Chinese
+cook lost his knife, and, spotting the thief, determined to have it;
+but our captain prevented him from jumping into one of the canoes, and
+so avoided trouble.&nbsp; There were over <!-- page 77--><a name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 77</span>one
+hundred canoes round the vessel, and altogether over four hundred men.</p>
+<p>We stopped all trading, and frightened the canoes away by blowing
+the steam whistle&mdash;they were much afraid of it, and kept at a very
+respectful distance.</p>
+<p>We went up the long sheet of water we saw when we crossed Meikle
+Bay, finding it in every way suited to its native name, Paroai, or piggish
+water, and quite useless as a harbour for anything larger than an ordinary
+boat.&nbsp; I went ashore in one of the canoes, to be landed at Bootu,
+and walk across to Milne Bay.&nbsp; Before leaving the vessel I engaged
+with the natives to take me right away to the head of the lagoon, and
+when I had seen Milne Bay, to return me to the vessel, when they would
+be paid for all their trouble.&nbsp; So with our bags and a few eatables,
+we started; when about a mile away from the vessel, they headed the
+canoe more in towards the right shore, and no amount of talk in calmness
+or wrath would get them to do otherwise.&nbsp; We touched at a place
+not far from a village we visited overland&mdash;some left us, and we
+were certainly now too weak to proceed.&nbsp; We ran down to the village,
+where we landed with my bag, and away went my native canoe men.&nbsp;
+Love or money would not move the villagers, and they were exceedingly
+impudent, knowing well that we were quite in their hands.&nbsp; My friend
+the mate, who insisted on accompanying me, agreed with me that things
+were rather out of the common with us, and that a sharp eye, and <!-- page 78--><a name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>quick
+ear, and quick action were of some importance.&nbsp; They at once went
+to get their clubs and spears, and begged and insisted on presents;
+but they were astonished, I doubt not, to find their begging of little
+avail.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Go to the vessel, if you want presents.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Why are you anchored so far off?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Can&rsquo;t get nearer, and only wish you would show me the
+way in close to here.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Pointing to a passage close in shore, I suggested they had better
+take us off, and we would try and get her round when the tide rose;
+but to this they objected, and instead of becoming more friendly, it
+seemed to us they were just going the other way; but that may have been
+merely as we thought, looking at them through coloured glasses, suspicion,
+and a certain mixture of doubt if ever we should again see the vessel.&nbsp;
+A few men came running along the beach.&nbsp; I met them, and hurriedly
+asked them to take us off when they would have hoop-iron and beads.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Quick! do not let them think!&nbsp; Into the nearest canoe.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Away in the distance those in the village were shouting and gesticulating.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Come back!&nbsp; Come back, at once.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Oh no, my friends; pull, you must pull!&rdquo; and while they
+are discussing we are paddling.&nbsp; I tell them it would be dangerous
+to attempt going back.&nbsp; <!-- page 79--><a name="page79"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 79</span>On
+we go, beyond small islands in sight of vessel, and now they give up
+speaking of returning.&nbsp; We got off, and I paid the fellows well.&nbsp;
+Anxious to get in, we tried in many places at high tide to enter the
+shore channel, but all was useless.&nbsp; For several miles we were
+sailing deep in mud, unable to work the engine.&nbsp; A canoe came near,
+and I told them to inform those ashore that we could not get in.</p>
+<p>At Port Glasgow, the people cleared out, bag and baggage, leaving
+us in quiet possession.&nbsp; At Port Moresby, I had heard of a woman&rsquo;s
+land, a land where only women&mdash;perfect Amazons&mdash;lived and
+ruled.&nbsp; These ladies were reported to be excellent tillers of the
+soil, splendid canoeists in sailing or paddling, and quite able to hold
+their own against attacks of the sterner sex, who sometimes tried to
+invade their country.&nbsp; At the East End they knew nothing of this
+woman&rsquo;s land, and nowhere east of Hula have I ever heard it spoken
+of.</p>
+<p>To find so interesting a community was of great moment, and everywhere
+we went we inquired, but only to be laughed at by the natives; sometimes
+asked by them, &ldquo;How do they continue to exist?&rdquo;&nbsp; But
+that, too, puzzled us.&nbsp; As no part of the coast from East Cape
+to Port Moresby would be left unvisited by us, we were certain to come
+across the Amazonian settlement, and when we did, it would be useful
+to keep a sharp look-out, as I have noticed that the instigators of
+nearly all quarrels are the women.&nbsp; <!-- page 80--><a name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 80</span>I
+have seen at South Cape, when the men were inclined to remain quiet,
+the women rush out, and, as if filled with devils, incite them.&nbsp;
+Just after the attack on the <i>Mayri</i>, and when I was going about
+the settlement attending to the wounded, I heard the women call loudly
+for vengeance, and, because the men would not at once heed them, throw
+their shields on the ground and batter them with stones, then pull their
+hair, and tell the men they were only poor weak cowards.</p>
+<p>We heard that Mailiukolo (Toulon) canoes with women were more numerous,
+and some very large ones with women alone.&nbsp; In the early morning
+we were off the island, and soon ready to land.&nbsp; On crossing the
+reef we met two canoes, one with men and one with women.&nbsp; We signed
+to them to go to the vessel, whilst we pulled up to the large village
+on the north side.&nbsp; As the boat touched the fine hard sandy beach,
+a man, the only being in sight, ran down and stood in front.&nbsp; I
+went forward to spring ashore, but he said I must not.&nbsp; Finding
+he knew the Daunai dialect, I said to him, I must land; that I was a
+friend, and gave him my name, which he already knew from the east.&nbsp;
+I gave him a strip of red cloth and stepped ashore, when he ran away
+into the bush.&nbsp; At our first approach I could only see this one
+man, but now I saw hundreds of grass petticoats on women standing under
+the houses.&nbsp; I could not see the upper parts of their bodies, only
+the petticoats <!-- page 81--><a name="page81"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 81</span>and
+feet.&nbsp; They were indeed quiet until I advanced nearer, when one
+wild scream was given that would try stronger nerves than mine, and
+signs to keep away.&nbsp; It required more inquisitiveness than I possessed
+to proceed.&nbsp; I retired a few paces, warning the boat&rsquo;s crew
+to keep a good look-out, and especially from the bush end of the village,
+where the man ran to.&nbsp; I invited the dusky damsels to come to me,
+if they objected to my visiting them; but no, I must return whence I
+came; they had seen me, that was enough.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No, my friends; we must meet, and you will have some presents.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I held up beads and red cloth, but, strange to say, they seemed to
+have no effect on that curious crowd.&nbsp; I never saw so many women
+together.&nbsp; How were we to meet? was now the question; to be baulked
+by them would never do.&nbsp; I threw on the beach a piece of red cloth
+and a few beads; walked away quite carelessly, and apparently not noticing
+what was taking place.&nbsp; A girl steals out from the crowd, stops,
+turns, eyes fixed on me; advances, stops, crosses her hands, pressing
+her breast.&nbsp; Poor thing! not courage enough; so, lightning speed,
+back.&nbsp; It is evident the old ladies object to the younger ones
+attempting, and they are themselves too frightened.&nbsp; Another young
+damsel about nine or ten years old comes out, runs, halts, walks cat-like,
+lest the touch of her feet on the sand should waken me from my reverie;
+another halt, holds her chest, lest the spirit should take its flight
+<!-- page 82--><a name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 82</span>or
+the pattering heart jump right out.&nbsp; I fear it was beyond the slight
+patter then, and had reached the stentorian thump of serious times.&nbsp;
+On; a rush; well done!&nbsp; She picks cloth and beads up.</p>
+<p>I have gained my point, and will soon have the crowds&mdash;no need
+to wait so long to have the baits picked up now, and, after a few more
+such temptings, it is done.&nbsp; I am besieged by the noisest crowd
+I have ever met, and am truly glad to escape on board the boat.&nbsp;
+We went to the vessel, and brought her round to the west side, where
+we anchored, and I again landed.&nbsp; Crowds met me on the beach, but
+no men.&nbsp; I gave my beads indiscriminately, and soon there was a
+quarrel between the old ladies and young ones.&nbsp; The latter were
+ordered off, and, because they would not go, I must go.&nbsp; The old
+ladies insisted on my getting into the boat, and, being now assisted
+by the few men we met in the canoe, I thought it better to comply.&nbsp;
+Long after we left the beach we heard those old cracked, crabbed voices
+anathematizing the younger members of that community.&nbsp; I suppose
+I was the first white mortal to land on that sacred shore, and I must
+have been to them a strange object indeed.</p>
+<p>I am fully convinced that this is the Woman&rsquo;s Land, and can
+easily account for its being called so by stray canoes from the westward.</p>
+<p>After leaving the island, we steamed round to the westward of the
+small islands in Amazon Bay, where we intended to spend a quiet Sabbath
+after a hard <!-- page 83--><a name="page83"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 83</span>week&rsquo;s
+work, and previous to beginning another.&nbsp; After anchoring, canoes
+with men and boys kept crossing from the mainland, and all day Sunday
+it was the same.&nbsp; They halted at the islands, and with the next
+tide went on to Toulon.&nbsp; Landing on the Saturday evening to shoot
+pigeons, we met several natives, and learned that their plantations
+were on the mainland, and that they crossed to plant and fight, taking
+their boys with them.&nbsp; Afterwards at Aroma, they told me they left
+their wives and daughters at home in charge of a few men, whilst the
+majority crossed to the main, and stayed away for some time, returning
+with food, to spend a few days at home on the island.&nbsp; During their
+absence, the women sail about and trade, going as far as Dedele in Cloudy
+Bay, being one and the same people.&nbsp; Canoes from the westward might
+have called at Toulon when the men were on the mainland fighting and
+planting, and seeing only women, would soon report a woman&rsquo;s land.&nbsp;
+Many years ago an Elema canoe was carried away there.&nbsp; They were
+kindly treated by the Amazons, but at Dedele on returning, were attacked
+and several killed; they naturally reported a woman&rsquo;s land too.</p>
+<p>The following week we visited Dedele in Cloudy Bay, which had been
+visited two years previously by Messrs. Lawes and McFarlane.&nbsp; The
+village was barricaded with high and thick mangrove sticks, with a narrow
+opening to the sea.&nbsp; They objected to my landing, and formed a
+crescent in front of the boat.&nbsp; <!-- page 84--><a name="page84"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 84</span>I
+sprung ashore and asked for the chief.&nbsp; I held out a piece of hoop-iron,
+and a rather short, well-built man, dressed with boar&rsquo;s tusks
+and other ornaments, stepped forward and took my present.&nbsp; He took
+me by the hand, and led me to the village, just allowing me to peep
+in at the opening.&nbsp; I could see the women rushing out by an opening
+at the other side; pigs, dogs, nets, and other valuables were being
+carried off; they were rushing off wildly away into the bush.&nbsp;
+I was very anxious to get right in, and meant to before I went to the
+boat.&nbsp; My beads were all done up in small parcels, so I could throw
+them about easily.&nbsp; A poor old woman was sitting under the nearest
+house, bewailing her sad lot, with an infant, the mother of which had
+very likely gone off to the bush to hide the valuables and to return
+for the child, or perhaps she was upstairs packing up.&nbsp; I threw
+the poor old dame a packet of beads for herself and another for the
+child.&nbsp; Spying another old lady close by on the opposite side,
+I threw her one.&nbsp; It had the desired effect; my friend, the chief,
+who stood guard at the opening, now conceived the &ldquo;happy thought&rdquo;
+that something could be made out of me.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Would you like to walk round and look at the village?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes, I should.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Come, then;&rdquo; and, giving me his hand, he led me, attended
+by an armed crowd, to every house, on the verandahs of which I deposited
+a packet of beads.&nbsp; <!-- page 85--><a name="page85"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 85</span>He
+was the chief, and was named Gidage.&nbsp; When going round he said&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;You are no longer Tamate, you are Gidage.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Right, my friend; you are no longer Gidage, you are Tamate.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I gave him an extra present, and he gave me a return one, saying,
+&ldquo;Gidage, we are friends; stay, and I, Tamate, will kill you a
+pig.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No, Tamate.&nbsp; Gidage must go; but hopes to re-return,
+and will then eat Tamate&rsquo;s pig.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No, stay now; we are friends, and you must be fed!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No, I cannot stay; but when I return, then pig-eating&rdquo;&mdash;not
+a very pleasant employment when, other things can be had.</p>
+<p>Pigs are very valuable animals here, and much thought of, and only
+true friends can be regaled with them.&nbsp; The women nurse the pig.&nbsp;
+I have seen a woman suckling a child at one breast and a small pig at
+the other; that was at South Cape.&nbsp; I have seen it also at Hula
+and Aroma.&nbsp; Proceeding to the beach, we parted, old and well-known
+friends.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Gidage, must you go?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes; I cannot now stay, Tamate.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Go, Gidage; how many moons until you return?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Tamate, I cannot say; but hope to return.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;<i>Kaione</i> (good-bye), Tamate.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;<i>Kaione</i>, Gidage;&rdquo; and away he started, leaving
+Tamate on the beach, surrounded by an interesting crowd of natives.</p>
+<p><!-- page 86--><a name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>It
+was near here, a few years after, that a <i>b&ecirc;che-de-mer</i> party
+of seven were murdered; and on the opposite side of the bay two cedar-seekers
+were waylaid, and lost their lives.&nbsp; We went into Sandbank Bay,
+and I landed at the village of Domara.&nbsp; What a scene it was!&nbsp;
+The women rushed into the long grass, and I was led, after a good deal
+of talk, up to the village&mdash;only to see, at the other end, grass
+petticoats disappearing, the wearers hidden by the quantity of stuff
+they were carrying.&nbsp; One poor woman, heavily laden with treasures,
+had perched above all her child, and away she, too, was flying.&nbsp;
+Never had white man landed there before, and who knows what he may be
+up to?</p>
+<p>The following incident illustrates the shocks a traveller must put
+up with in New Guinea.</p>
+<p>It was resting-day at a village, far away from the coast, and, spreading
+my chart out on the middle of the floor in the small native house in
+which we were camping, several sitting round, I was tracing our journey
+done, and the probable one to do, when strange drops were falling around,
+a few on the chart.&nbsp; They came from a bulky parcel overhead.&nbsp;
+Jumping up quickly, I discovered that they were grandmother&rsquo;s
+remains being dried.&nbsp; Our chart was placed on the fire, and the
+owner was called lustily, who hurriedly entered and walked away with
+the parcel.&nbsp; It was altogether a hurried time, and spoiled our
+dinner.&nbsp; Feeling convinced that a suitable locality for the <!-- page 87--><a name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 87</span>settlement
+of teachers might be found in the neighbourhood of Orangerie Bay, I
+resolved on returning thither, and we anchored at Kuragori, on the east
+side of Dufaure Island, on April 25th, 1879.&nbsp; I went ashore, and
+found the people delighted to meet me.&nbsp; The chief, Tutuaunei, seems
+a fine young fellow.&nbsp; The people are good-looking, clear-skinned,
+and very few suffering from skin disease.&nbsp; They were quite at home
+with us, and a number accompanied me inland.&nbsp; In strong trade winds,
+the vessel could lie under the lee of the mainland opposite.&nbsp; We
+got on board, and steamed round to the north side, anchoring off Bonabona.</p>
+<p>I went ashore, and was met on the beach by Meaudi, the chief.&nbsp;
+He is the chief of four villages, some distance from one another, and
+all a good size.&nbsp; I visited all four.&nbsp; They have good houses,
+and all looks clean.&nbsp; I saw no mangroves whatever, and no appearance
+of swamp.&nbsp; The villages are on the beach, and I believe in good
+healthy positions.&nbsp; We walked from Bonabona to Sigokoiro, followed
+by a large number of men, women, and children, who were much interested
+in my boots, clothes, and hat.&nbsp; The chief lives in Gokora, and
+when on the platform in front of his fine large house I gave the present,
+and we exchanged names.&nbsp; By adopting his name, it meant I was to
+visit all his very special friends, and give them also presents.&nbsp;
+I called an old woman sitting by to come to me.&nbsp; Very hesitatingly
+she came, and <!-- page 88--><a name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>stretched
+forth her arm to receive a present.&nbsp; I asked her to come nearer,
+which she did, when assured by the chief it was all right, and I put
+her present of beads round her neck.&nbsp; Then all the people shouted,
+clapped their hands, and danced with delight.&nbsp; After that, all
+the old women were produced.&nbsp; We were well known by report to them,
+and so Tamate passed as a great <i>taubada</i> (chief).</p>
+<p>Dufaure is a fine island, quite equal to any I have seen in the South
+Pacific&mdash;plantations on all sides, right up to the mountain tops.&nbsp;
+They know nothing of firearms, for, on inquiring if there were birds
+on the island, they asked if I had a sling.&nbsp; The people are a much
+finer race, and freer than any I have seen further east.&nbsp; The two
+races seem to meet here&mdash;that from the Kerepunu side, and that
+from the east.&nbsp; We are anchored some distance from the shore in
+three fathoms, and further out it is shallower.&nbsp; The opposite shore
+on mainland looks low and unhealthy.</p>
+<p>There are ten villages on the island, five of which we have visited.</p>
+<p>After visiting the Keakaro and Aroma districts, our journeyings were
+nearly brought to a sudden termination.&nbsp; When we got halfway between
+the point next to McFarlane Harbour, and Mailu, where there is a boat
+entrance, we saw the boat, and waved to them to approach.&nbsp; They
+came near to the surf, but not near enough for us to get on board.&nbsp;
+The native of Hula, from Maopa, got on board.&nbsp; The Hula boy <!-- page 89--><a name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 89</span>got
+on board early in the day, leaving us to go on alone.&nbsp; I called
+out to them to proceed to the boat entrance at Mailu.&nbsp; Great numbers
+of natives were with us; we saw, in the distance, numbers more sitting
+on the beach, and armed.&nbsp; Some of those following us were armed.&nbsp;
+When within two miles of where the boat was to await us, we came upon
+a crowd of men and women; the former carried spears, clubs, or pieces
+of hard wood, used in opening cocoa nuts; the women had clubs.&nbsp;
+Some time before this, I said to the teacher and Loyalty islander, &ldquo;Keep
+a good look-out; I fear there is mischief here.&rdquo;&nbsp; When we
+came upon the last group, I asked for a cocoanut in exchange for beads;
+the man was giving it to me, when a young man stepped forward and sent
+him back.&nbsp; We hastened our steps, so as to get to the village,
+where the strangers from Mailukolo and Kapumari might help us.&nbsp;
+The teacher heard them discussing as to the best place for the attack;
+and, not knowing that he knew what they said, he heard much that left
+no doubt in our minds that murder was meant.&nbsp; I carried a satchel,
+which had beads and hoop-iron in it; they tried to get it.&nbsp; I gave
+presents of beads; some were indignantly returned.&nbsp; I was in front,
+between two men with clubs, who kept telling me I was a bad man.&nbsp;
+I held their hands, and kept them so that they could not use their clubs.&nbsp;
+The Loyalty islander had a fowling-piece&mdash;thinking we might be
+away some days, and we might have to shoot our <!-- page 90--><a name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 90</span>dinners.&nbsp;
+They tried hard to get him to fire it off, and twice tried to wrest
+it from him.&nbsp; They know what guns are, and with reason.&nbsp; They
+tried to trip us<span class="smcap">;</span> they jostled us.&nbsp;
+On we went.</p>
+<p>Two men, when near the village, came close up behind me with large
+wooden clubs, which were taken from them by two women, who ran off to
+the village.&nbsp; Things looked black, and each of us prayed in silence
+to Him who rules over the heathen.&nbsp; Soon a man came rushing along,
+seized the club, and took it from the man on my left, and threw it in
+the sea.&nbsp; He tried to do the same with the one on my right; but
+he was too light a man, and did not succeed.&nbsp; An old woman, when
+at the point, came out and asked them what they meant, and followed
+us, talking to them all the way, so dividing their thoughts.&nbsp; An
+old chief, whom we saw on our way up, came hurriedly along to meet us,
+calling out, &ldquo;Mine is the peace!&nbsp; What have these foreigners
+done that you want to kill them?&rdquo;&nbsp; He closed up to the teacher,
+and took him by the hand.&nbsp; Another chief walked close behind me.&nbsp;
+They began to talk loudly amongst themselves.&nbsp; Some were finding
+fault that we should have been allowed to get near the village, and
+others that there was yet time.&nbsp; The boat was anchored some distance
+off: we got her nearer; and, when ready to move off to the boat, I opened
+my satchel, gave hoop-iron to our friends the chiefs, and threw beads
+amongst the crowd.&nbsp; I shouted for Kapumari, <!-- page 91--><a name="page91"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 91</span>and
+a sturdy young fellow fought his way through the crowd.&nbsp; I gave
+him a piece of hoop-iron, and, with our friendly chiefs, he forced the
+crowd back, calling on us to be quick, and follow.&nbsp; So into the
+water we got, the chiefs calling, &ldquo;Go quick; go quick!&rdquo;&nbsp;
+We got on board; our Chinamen got flustered, and very nearly let the
+boat drift broadside on the beach; we, with poles and oars, got her
+round and off, sails set, and away for Kerepunu.&nbsp; Before changing
+clothes, we thanked God our Father for His protection and care over
+us.&nbsp; We felt He alone did all; unsettled their thoughts as to who
+first, where, and when; and it was He who gave us friends.</p>
+<p>Why should they want to kill us?&nbsp; It was surely never for the
+small satchel I carried.&nbsp; I believe it was revenge.&nbsp; Some
+years ago, a vessel called off Aroma; trading for food was done on board;
+thieving went on; food was sold twice; revolvers and rifles were brought
+out; the natives were fired on, several were wounded, and very likely
+some were killed.&nbsp; Natives on the beach were fired upon, and some
+were wounded who were hiding in the bush close by.&nbsp; We land&mdash;the
+first foreigners to visit them&mdash;and on us they will be revenged.&nbsp;
+What a pity that the same foreigners who fire on the natives do not
+return the following week, and so receive their deserts!&nbsp; The wretches
+steer clear of such parts.&nbsp; I have asked the teacher to find out,
+if possible, why Aroma wished to kill Tamate and Taria.</p>
+<p><!-- page 92--><a name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>When
+in the boat, we asked the Hula boy why he left us and took to the boat.&nbsp;
+He said he had heard some say we should be killed, and that we would
+make a fine feast.&nbsp; He did not tell us, because he had not an opportunity,
+and was afraid the people might hear him if he told, and so he would
+be killed.</p>
+<p>A week later a chief from Maopa came with a Kerepunu chief to see
+me.&nbsp; I recognised him as the one who kept back the crowd the other
+day at Aroma, and opened the way for me to get into the water, and so
+into the boat.&nbsp; He says, from our landing in the morning they had
+determined to kill us, but the suitable time did not arrive.&nbsp; When
+we arrived at the place where the large canoes from Toulon and Daunai
+were lying, it was there arranged by the Aroma people and those from
+the canoes that Aroma should kill us and have all they could get, and
+those from the canoes should have the bodies to eat.&nbsp; He says they
+kept putting it off, until, finally, it was to be done when we were
+at the boat, then they would have boat and all; but he and two other
+chiefs arrived just in time.&nbsp; He says it was not revenge, and,
+turning to the Kerepunu chief, he said, &ldquo;You know Aroma from of
+old, and how all strangers are killed.&rdquo;&nbsp; I gave him a present,
+and told him that I hoped to see him soon.</p>
+<p>The inhabitants of the inland villages are probably the aborigines,
+who have been driven back to the hills by the robuster race now occupying
+their plantations <!-- page 93--><a name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 93</span>on
+the coast.&nbsp; Their habits and customs are curious and interesting.&nbsp;
+They cook the heads of their slain enemies, to secure clean skulls to
+put on sacred places.</p>
+<p>They have one great spirit&mdash;Palaku Bara, who dwells in the mountains.&nbsp;
+They worship him unitedly in one place.&nbsp; Each family has a sacred
+place, where they carry offerings to the spirits of deceased ancestors,
+whom they terribly fear.&nbsp; Sickness in the family, death, famine,
+scarcity of fish, etc.&mdash;these terrible spirits are at work and
+must be propitiated.</p>
+<p>Pigs are never killed but in the one place, and then they are offered
+to the spirit.&nbsp; The blood is poured out there, and the carcase
+is then carried back to the village, to be divided, cooked, and eaten.</p>
+<p>Pigs&rsquo; skulls are kept and hung up in the house.&nbsp; Food
+for a feast, such as at house-building, is placed near the post where
+the skulls hang, and a prayer is said.&nbsp; When the centre-post is
+put up, the spirits have wallaby, fish, and bananas presented to them,
+and they are besought to keep that house always full of food, and that
+it may not fall when the wind is strong.&nbsp; The great spirit causes
+food to grow, and to him presentations of food are made.</p>
+<p>Spirits, when they leave the body, take a canoe, cross the lagoon,
+and depart to the mountains, where they remain in perfect bliss; no
+work, and nothing to trouble them, with plenty of betel-nuts.&nbsp;
+They dance all night long, and rest all day.&nbsp; When the natives
+begin planting, they first take <!-- page 94--><a name="page94"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 94</span>a
+bunch of bananas and sugar-cane, and go to the centre of the plantation,
+and call over the names of the dead belonging to their family, adding,
+&ldquo;There is your food, your bananas and sugar-cane; let our food
+grow well, and let it be plentiful.&nbsp; If it does not grow well and
+plentiful, you all will be full of shame, and so shall we.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>When they go on trading expeditions, they present their food to the
+spirits at the centre post of the house, and ask the spirits to go before
+them and prepare the people, so that the trading may be prosperous.</p>
+<p>No great work and no expedition is undertaken without offerings and
+prayer.</p>
+<p>When sickness is in the family, a pig is brought to the sacred place
+of the great spirit, and killed.&nbsp; The carcase is then taken to
+the sacred place of the family, and the spirits are asked to accept
+it.&nbsp; Sins are confessed, such as bananas that are taken, or cocoanuts,
+and none have been presented, and leave not given to eat them.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;There is a pig; accept, and remove the sickness.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+Death follows, and the day of burial arrives.&nbsp; The friends all
+stand round the open grave, and the chief&rsquo;s sister or cousin calls
+out in a loud voice, &ldquo;You have been angry with us for the bananas
+we have taken (or cocoanuts, as the case may be), and you have, in your
+anger, taken this child.&nbsp; Now let it suffice, and bury your anger.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+The body is then placed in the grave, and covered over with earth.</p>
+<h2><!-- page 95--><a name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 95</span>CHAPTER
+III.&nbsp; SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE.</h2>
+<p>Journey inland from Port Moresby&mdash;Evening with a chief&mdash;Savage
+life&mdash;Tree houses&mdash;Uakinumu&mdash;Inland natives&mdash;Native
+habits of eating&mdash;Mountain scenery&mdash;Upland natives&mdash;Return
+to Uakinumu&mdash;Drinking out of a bamboo&mdash;Native conversation&mdash;Keninumu&mdash;Munikahila&mdash;Native
+spiritists&mdash;Habits and influence of these men&mdash;Meroka&mdash;Kerianumu&mdash;Makapili&mdash;The
+Laroki Falls&mdash;Epakari&mdash;Return to Port Moresby.</p>
+<p>In 1879, I made a long journey inland, in a north-easterly direction
+from Port Moresby.&nbsp; I visited many native villages, and explored
+the mountainous country along the course of and between the Goldie and
+Laroki rivers.</p>
+<p>The reader will get some notion of the country, the natives, and
+their customs, from the following extracts taken from a journal kept
+at that time.</p>
+<p><i>July</i> 15<i>th</i>, 1879.&mdash;We left Port Moresby at half-past
+seven, reaching the Laroki at half-past eleven.&nbsp; We crossed in
+shallow water near to where the Goldie joins the Laroki.&nbsp; We had
+eighteen carriers, four of them women, who carried more than the men.&nbsp;
+After resting awhile at the Laroki we went on about three miles farther
+to Moumiri, the first village of the <!-- page 96--><a name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 96</span>Koiari
+tribe of Port Moresby.&nbsp; On entering the village we took them by
+surprise; the women shouted and the men rushed to their spears.&nbsp;
+We called out, <i>Mai</i>, <i>mai</i>, <i>mai</i> (Peace, peace, peace),
+and, on recognizing who we were, they came running towards us with both
+hands outspread.&nbsp; We met the chief&rsquo;s wife, and she led us
+up the hill, where there are a number of good native houses.&nbsp; It
+was shouted on before us that foreigners and Ruatoka had arrived, and
+down the hill the youths came rushing, shaking hands, shouting, and
+slapping themselves.&nbsp; We were received by the chief under the house,
+and there we had to sit for a very long time until his wife returned
+from the plantation with sugar-cane.&nbsp; Our carriers chewed large
+quantities of sugar-cane, got a few betel-nuts, and then set off on
+the return journey.&nbsp; We are now thirteen miles north-east from
+Port Moresby, 360 feet above sea-level, the thermometer 84&deg; in shade.&nbsp;
+The people are small, women not good-looking, and children ill-shaped.&nbsp;
+The Goldie runs at the base of the hill; the natives get water from
+it.&nbsp; The houses are very similar to those inland from Kerepunu.&nbsp;
+On the door hangs a bunch of nutshells, so that when the door is shut
+or opened they make a noise.&nbsp; Should the occupants of the house
+be asleep, and their foes come, they would, on the door being opened,
+be woke up.&nbsp; Spears and clubs are all handy.</p>
+<p>16<i>th</i>.&mdash;Ruatoka, Joe (an African), and I started at half-past
+ten for Munikahila, where we hope to <!-- page 97--><a name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 97</span>get
+carriers, our Moumiri friends objecting to go.&nbsp; The first village
+we came to we found deserted, and in one old house the skeleton of a
+child.&nbsp; We crossed to another village, and coming suddenly upon
+the few who were at home, they were terribly frightened; one woman danced
+up and down the village, and shouted to the people in the neighbouring
+villages to come at once.&nbsp; We are 1170 feet above sea-level, at
+a village called Keninuma.&nbsp; The people soon gathered round, some
+with spears, clubs, and shields, others unarmed.&nbsp; Feeling cold
+after the climb, I signed to be allowed to go into a house to change
+clothing, and was given to understand that a very good place to do it
+was on the verandah in front of the house, and before the assembly.&nbsp;
+When the chief, Poroko Butoa, arrived, we were assigned a small house;
+a man during the evening came rushing along with one piece of sugar-cane
+and calling out for a tomahawk.&nbsp; A tomahawk for a piece of sugar-cane
+would be throwing money to the winds.&nbsp; We are E.N.E. from Moumiri.</p>
+<p>17<i>th</i>.&mdash;Rather cold during the night.&nbsp; Five natives
+who slept in the house with us kept a fire burning all night.&nbsp;
+A child sitting in front of the house has a taro in one hand, a bamboo
+pipe in the other; takes a bite of the taro, then a draw from the charged
+pipe, and the mixture seems to be thoroughly relished.&nbsp; Feeling
+sure we should get carriers here, we took no supplies with us, so are
+now eating the <!-- page 98--><a name="page98"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 98</span>best
+we can get, doing Banting to perfection.&nbsp; A number of men have
+been sitting all day about the house making spears, the jawbone and
+tusks of the wild boar being the only implements.</p>
+<p>18<i>th</i>.&mdash;Thermometer at sunrise 70&deg;.&nbsp; A number
+of ugly painted and feathered fellows came in this morning on their
+way to the village in the valley.&nbsp; The people here are much darker
+than the coast tribes, and their hair is woolly.&nbsp; Joe said on arriving
+here, &ldquo;Hallo, these people same as mine, hair just the same.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+They are scarcely so dark.&nbsp; A few are bright-coloured, but all
+have the woolly hair.&nbsp; A goodly number suffer from sores on feet
+and other parts of body.&nbsp; Their one want is a tomahawk.&nbsp; The
+people seem to live in families.&nbsp; We had a good supper of taro
+and cockatoo, the latter rather tough.</p>
+<p>19<i>th</i>.&mdash;The carriers have not yet arrived.&nbsp; In the
+evening a woman shouted and yelled; all rushed to their spears, and
+there was great running, snorting, and blowing at some imaginary enemy.&nbsp;
+After the chief came in, we lay about the fire for some time; then to
+our blankets.&nbsp; I was beginning to nod, when some women in a neighbouring
+house began giggling and laughing.&nbsp; Our friend wakened up and began
+talking.&nbsp; I told him to sleep; he answered, <i>Kuku mahuta</i>,
+(Smoke, then sleep).&nbsp; He had his smoke, and then began reciting.&nbsp;
+I remember, as a youth, being told, when I could not sleep, to repeat
+a psalm or paraphrase, or count one hundred to myself, and <!-- page 99--><a name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 99</span>I
+should soon drop off.&nbsp; This fellow repeated aloud and he must have
+been going over the mythologic lore of his family for very many generations,
+and yet he did not sleep.&nbsp; At last, a smoke, beginning with a scream
+of <i>kuku</i>.&nbsp; Now, surely sleep; but no, he changed to a low
+monotonous chant, so grating on the sleepy man&rsquo;s nervous system
+that it would have driven many desperate.&nbsp; At last, in the morning
+hours, the notes became indistinct, long pauses were observed, and,
+finally, I fell asleep.</p>
+<p>The women carry exceedingly heavy loads up these steep hills.&nbsp;
+Yesterday one woman had two large kits of taro, and a child of about
+two years on the top of all.&nbsp; Ruatoka shot eight blue pigeons and
+one bird of paradise to-day: the latter must be eaten with the best
+of all sauces&mdash;hunger.&nbsp; The natives pick up heads, legs, and
+entrails, turn them on the fire and eat them.</p>
+<p>20<i>th</i>.&mdash;Yesterday evening, about six, the carriers came
+in with great shouting, and glad was I to see my lad and companion Maka
+then.&nbsp; Great was the joy at the division of salt and tobacco.&nbsp;
+Before we came here the women and children slept in the bush at night,
+the men in the village.&nbsp; They are at enmity with the natives on
+the flat across the ravine, and it seems that sometimes they get a night
+visit, and may lose a man.&nbsp; For the last two nights the women have
+been in the village, but every sound heard causes a shout.&nbsp; Last
+night, when just getting off, they came rushing up to <!-- page 100--><a name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 100</span>our
+house, and calling on us to get up with our guns, as their enemies were
+coming.&nbsp; &ldquo;Only fire off one, and it will frighten them away.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+We told them to go and sleep, and not be afraid.</p>
+<p>The state of fear of one another in which the savage lives is truly
+pitiful; to him every stranger seeks his life, and so does every other
+savage.&nbsp; The falling of a dry leaf at night, the tread of a pig,
+or the passage of a bird all rouse him, and he trembles with fear.</p>
+<p>How they relish salt!&nbsp; The smallest grain is picked carefully
+up.&nbsp; Fortunately we have a good deal of that commodity.&nbsp; Never
+have I seen salt-eating like this; only children eating sugar corresponds
+to it.</p>
+<p>Here as in all other parts of New Guinea&mdash;it is not the most
+powerful man who fights and kills most, but little abominable sneaks,
+treacherous in the extreme.&nbsp; Since our arrival here we find the
+thermometer from 82&deg; to 84&deg; during the day, and as low as 68&deg;,
+more frequently 70&deg;, during the night.&nbsp; By bearings we are
+only about twenty miles in straight course from Port Moresby.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/101b.jpg">
+<img alt="Tree houses" src="images/101s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>21<i>st</i>.&mdash;The village is built on the ridge, the chief&rsquo;s
+house right on the high end and looking east, our small house close
+by on the side of the others, on each side, leaving a pathway in the
+centre.&nbsp; At the very end of the ridge is a house on a very high
+tree, used as a look-out house and a refuge for women and children in
+case of attack.&nbsp; There are quite a number of tree houses in the
+various villages on the ridges seen <!-- page 103--><a name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 103</span>from
+here.&nbsp; The people are anxious to get Maka, a light-coloured and
+very fine-looking native lad, married to one of their girls and settled
+down amongst them.&nbsp; I said to our African, &ldquo;They want Maka
+to marry one of their girls.&rdquo;&nbsp; Joe, I suppose, felt slighted
+that he too had not an offer, and he replied, &ldquo;Well, sir, in Madagascar,
+a very big chief was real anxious I marry his daughter; fine-looking
+girl; he make me chief, and give me plenty land; far cleaner people
+than them be.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I find the people have the same sign of friendship as in the east
+end of New Guinea&mdash;nose and stomach pointed to.&nbsp; They speak
+of a land, Daui, with which they are friendly, a very long way off.&nbsp;
+Daunai, of Orangerie Bay, is called Daui in some places.&nbsp; To their
+tree houses they have ladders with long vines on each side to assist
+ascent.&nbsp; Our delay here will help us to know the people.&nbsp;
+I have just been showing them the likenesses of two young friends, and
+the excitement has been great, men, women, and children crowding round,
+thumb in mouth, scratching and shaking heads, and leaping and screaming,
+coming again and again to have a look.</p>
+<p>22<i>nd</i>.&mdash;A number of strangers slept, or rather made a
+noise all night in houses close by, and amongst them a spiritist, whose
+hideous singing and chanting of revelations was enough to drive one
+frantic.&nbsp; We tried to quiet him, but it was of no use&mdash;silenced
+he would not be.&nbsp; A man sitting by us when having morning tea <!-- page 104--><a name="page104"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 104</span>asked
+for some of the salt we were using.&nbsp; We told him it was not salt,
+but sugar.&nbsp; He insisted it was salt, and we gave him some on his
+taro.&nbsp; He began eating, and the look of disgust on his face was
+worth seeing; he rose up, went out, spat out what he had in his mouth,
+and threw the remainder away.</p>
+<p>23<i>rd</i>.&mdash;Cannot get the natives to move; they say they
+are tired, and will have to rest until to-morrow morning, and they are
+also afraid of their enemies.&nbsp; The excitement is great, but what
+it all means is difficult for us to say.&nbsp; Noon: all have cleared
+out with spears, clubs, and shields, two men having been killed in a
+village near, and they have gone to get hold of the murderers if they
+can.&nbsp; Dressed in their feathers and fighting gear, with faces streaked,
+they do certainly look ugly.&nbsp; After being some time gone, they
+returned, saying the enemy, who were from Eikiri, had gone off to the
+back mountains.</p>
+<p>28<i>th</i>.&mdash;Left this morning, and had to carry our things,
+no natives accompanying us.&nbsp; When about four miles on, we met natives
+who willingly took our bags and accompanied us to Uakinumu.&nbsp; The
+travelling was not so bad&mdash;a good deal of descending and ascending.&nbsp;
+Oriope, the old chief, was delighted to see us.&nbsp; His wives and
+children have gone with great burdens of betel-nuts and taro to trade
+at the seaside.&nbsp; The old fellow goes with us.&nbsp; We are now
+1530 feet above sea-level, east-by-south from last camp&mdash;Mount
+Owen Stanley due north.&nbsp; Oriope is Mr. Lawes&rsquo;s great <!-- page 105--><a name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 105</span>friend.&nbsp;
+He used to live in Munikahila, but trouble through marrying a wife has
+sent him in here.&nbsp; He seems greatly attached to Ruatoka.&nbsp;
+He is a terrible talker, long-winded and deafening.</p>
+<p>29<i>th</i>.&mdash;We had a strange sort of a hut for sleeping-quarters
+on the top of a rock.&nbsp; The house, being open all round, felt exceedingly
+cold when the fire went down.&nbsp; The people here seem much lighter
+than at the other place, and the children have a more pleasant expression.&nbsp;
+Basaltic rocks lie scattered about in every direction.&nbsp; We had
+our flag flying, and the admiration was great, the natives viewing it
+from underneath then from a distance, and in each position noticing
+something new.&nbsp; About half-past eleven we left.&nbsp; The old chief
+and four carriers went with us.&nbsp; After crossing the head of the
+Munikahila Creek we passed through fine thickly-wooded country, that
+may yet become a very extensive coffee country.&nbsp; After travelling
+for some hours, we camped 1800 feet above sea-level.&nbsp; On the way
+the carriers struck and were for going back, but we insisted on their
+going on a little further.&nbsp; Strange formation of country all around
+here.&nbsp; This ridge seems alone in a large basin, one side of which
+is bare perpendicular rock.&nbsp; There is a good quantity of cedar,
+but so difficult to get away that it would never pay to work.&nbsp;
+We are north-east from Uakinumu.</p>
+<p>30<i>th</i>.&mdash;We started late, continued our journey along the
+ridge, rising gradually to 2250 feet, and then along a fine level country
+for some miles, when we began to <!-- page 106--><a name="page106"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 106</span>descend.&nbsp;
+Soon our old friend began shouting, and received an answer from a village
+a long way off.&nbsp; Close by us was a very steep descent, down which
+we went till we came under the shadow of a great rock, where we rested,
+and in about an hour up came ten natives unarmed, touched our chins,
+and we theirs, then all squatted to smoke.&nbsp; One of them, some time
+ago, had been to the coast, and knew Rua; his joy at now seeing him
+in here was great.&nbsp; A shot had been fired at a cockatoo before
+they heard the shouting, and they were much afraid.&nbsp; When all seemed
+satisfied, and the crust of the news broken, I proposed a start, so
+up bundles, and away we went.&nbsp; When having gone about two miles,
+there was a halt in an open space, and we were given to understand we
+must camp there.&nbsp; I could not agree to it, &ldquo;We must go on
+to the village.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;No, you must stay here.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;We cannot; we must go on.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;If you go on you will be devoured by the <i>boroma badababa</i>
+(great pig).&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I insisted upon going on; they called to those in the village, and
+on being answered we again went on for about half a mile, when every
+bundle was put down and a halt called, and again we had to listen to
+the unintelligible story of the wild animal or animals that would destroy
+us.&nbsp; We sat down and tried to get them to see as we did, that a
+house was necessary for our comfort.&nbsp; A thunderstorm was working
+up, and soon the rain would be down on us&mdash;let us be off for <!-- page 107--><a name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 107</span>the
+village.&nbsp; They had a long confab with those in the village on the
+ridge, which, when ended, seemed favourable; and so up the steep side
+of the ridge we went.&nbsp; When halfway up they halted, and wanted
+us to camp under the shelter of a great rock.&nbsp; Seeing some young
+men with bundles rounding the rock, I joined myself to them, and away
+we went, followed by the others to the village.&nbsp; Under the first
+house in the village sat a man, with a large pig standing by him, which
+he was clapping and scratching, as if to keep it quiet; and as we went
+along we saw great pigs under the houses.&nbsp; Certainly they were
+savage-looking pigs.&nbsp; We were given an open house, and the rain
+was coming on.&nbsp; I was ascending, when it became necessary to spring
+from a pig that was after me.&nbsp; Is this Goldie&rsquo;s big beast
+the natives told him of?&nbsp; This is a fine country.&nbsp; We passed
+through large plantations of yams, taro, sugar-cane, and bananas.&nbsp;
+During the evening we had crowds of men and lads&mdash;no women or children&mdash;to
+see us.&nbsp; Some are quite light copper-coloured, others are very
+dark; nearly all are dressed with cassowary feathers; many with ruffs
+round their necks made from these feathers.&nbsp; There were none very
+tall, but all seem well-built men, with good muscle.&nbsp; They have
+the same calabashes and chunam sticks for betel-chewing as at Kerepunu.&nbsp;
+Some chunam sticks made from cassowary bones are well carved.&nbsp;
+They are a very noisy lot; one would think they were trying to see who
+could speak the <!-- page 108--><a name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 108</span>loudest.&nbsp;
+They tell us it is impossible to cross to the other side, as further
+inland the ridge ends&mdash;and there is nothing but bare broken rook&mdash;inaccessible
+all round.&nbsp; The majority of the men are bearded and moustached,
+and have cassowary feathers like a pad behind, on which they sit.&nbsp;
+They dress with a string.&nbsp; The demand for salt is very great; grains
+are picked up, and friends are supplied with a few grains from what
+they have got for taro.&nbsp; The name of the place is Kenagagara, 1810
+feet above the sea-level, E.N.E. from Uakinumu.</p>
+<p>31<i>st</i>.&mdash;Great crowds of people keep going and coming.&nbsp;
+We spent a miserable night.&nbsp; Our old chief, Oriope, had a conclave
+round the fire, and it took him all night to recount the doings of the
+<i>Naos</i> (foreigners), not forgetting the toilet.&nbsp; At times
+he waxed eloquent, and the whole gully rung again.&nbsp; It was useless
+telling him to be quiet.&nbsp; All men and lads have the nose and ears
+pierced.&nbsp; A number of women and children are about.&nbsp; Some
+of the women are fine, tall, muscular, and clear-skinned, as light-coloured
+as Eastern Polynesians.&nbsp; The children are lithe, blithe, and hearty&mdash;some
+very dark and some very light.&nbsp; The women have brought large quantities
+of taro for salt.&nbsp; Oriope is very sleepy, and I have every now
+and again to wake him up, so that to-night he may sleep soundly, and
+not prevent our sleeping.</p>
+<p>My name here is Oieva&mdash;that of the fine-looking old father of
+the village.&nbsp; At present I am all alone <!-- page 109--><a name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 109</span>the
+others being out after birds.&nbsp; The natives are very friendly.&nbsp;
+They relish salt and ginger, which I have tried with them, and which
+they pronounce good.&nbsp; Ruatoka and Maka have returned; they shot
+a pig, which the natives who accompanied them cooked and divided, to
+be carried in.&nbsp; The excitement is great over the division, and
+the whole assembly are shouting; those from the hunt recounting the
+day&rsquo;s proceedings, acting the shooting of the pig, to the intense
+delight and amazement of the others.&nbsp; They eat flesh nearly raw.&nbsp;
+A pig is put on the fire until the hair is well singed off; then division
+is made, then re-divided, and eaten.&nbsp; They take a piece between
+the teeth, hold with one hand, and with a bamboo knife cut close to
+the mouth.&nbsp; A bird is turned on the fire a few times, then cut
+up and eaten.</p>
+<p><i>August</i> 1<i>st</i>.&mdash;Left this morning to look for a track.&nbsp;
+We passed through a fine large village about one mile from here, and
+were joined by sixty men, all armed with spears and clubs, and faces
+painted.&nbsp; They accompanied us for about four miles, and then turned
+away to the south.&nbsp; We continued on the ridge for some miles further,
+until we could see that all round were great inaccessible mountains
+with bare faces.&nbsp; It begins with the Astrolabe, extending west
+until Vetura is reached, and then away east by south until the centre
+of the range is reached.&nbsp; In some places it has a perpendicular
+rock face of many hundred feet; in other places it is broken rock with
+bush growth, and <!-- page 110--><a name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 110</span>only
+at very long distances can tracks be found, and even then it is difficult
+to get up.&nbsp; We descended to the river, a large one, flowing west,
+through great rocks, often lost, sometimes only pools appearing here
+and there until, some distance down, and when eight hundred feet above
+sea-level, it comes out a fine and flowing river.&nbsp; We had a good
+bath, and, of course, the inevitable <i>kuku</i>, and then skirted the
+side of the ridge, passing close by and under great rocks and overhanging
+cliffs, and up a most extraordinary steep path into splendid sugar-cane
+and taro plantations.&nbsp; Weary, we sat down and ate sugar-cane under
+the shade of a great rock.&nbsp; This West Indian &ldquo;long breakfast&rdquo;
+goes well when thirsty and hungry.&nbsp; The natives who accompanied
+us, having caught a large rat and frog, turned them on the fire and
+ate them.</p>
+<p>A truly wonderful country!&nbsp; What terrible convulsions of nature
+there must have been here ere these great boulders were displaced and
+rolled about like mere pebbles!&nbsp; The villages are so built that
+they are accessible only on two sides by very narrow tracks.&nbsp; We
+saw no game of any kind, yet the cassowary must abound somewhere near,
+as every one of the natives wears great head-dresses and neck-ruffs
+made from the feathers.&nbsp; Our highest ascent to-day was to 2360
+feet above the sea-level; we call it Mount Bellamy; it stands out alone,
+and from it we saw the Astrolabe, Vetura, and Munikahila.</p>
+<p>2<i>nd</i>.&mdash;We left this morning for a pig and cassowary <!-- page 111--><a name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 111</span>hunt,
+but were unsuccessful.&nbsp; We bagged four cockatoos, one green parrot,
+one brueros, and three pigeons.&nbsp; Of my travelling in this land,
+to-day beats all; it was along mere goat tracks, on the edge of frightful
+precipices, down precipitous mountain-sides and up steep ridges, on
+hands and knees at times, hanging on to roots and vines, and glad when
+a tree offered a little rest and support.&nbsp; I gave it up at last,
+hungry and weary, and let the others proceed.&nbsp; I stayed with a
+party of natives who were getting a kind of large almond with a very
+thick fleshy rind, the nut inside very hard, which they broke open with
+stones, filling their kits with the kernels.&nbsp; They call the nut
+<i>okari</i>.&nbsp; They fed me with sugar-cane, taro, and <i>okari</i>,
+and then got leaves for me to rest on.&nbsp; They had all their arms
+handy; I was, as I am always, unarmed, and felt thoroughly comfortable
+with them.&nbsp; Only once in New Guinea have I carried a weapon, and
+then we had spears thrown at us.&nbsp; I consider a man safer without
+than with arms.&nbsp; The return &ldquo;home&rdquo; was frightfully
+steep and trying to wearied and hungry folks.</p>
+<p>3<i>rd</i>.&mdash;Youths busy with feathers of cockatoos got yesterday,
+making head-dresses.&nbsp; They take the feather, strip it down, throw
+the quill away, fasten all the stripped feathers neatly together, dry
+in sun, then bind round their combs.&nbsp; One youth is preparing a
+head-covering from the bark of the mulberry: he is making native cloth
+by chewing <!-- page 112--><a name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 112</span>the
+bark, and no wonder he complains of his jaws being sore, for it is a
+long job.&nbsp; I gave the children presents of beads this morning,
+and some of the old gentlemen objected, saying they ought to have had
+them; but I did not understand them.&nbsp; It is very convenient at
+times not to understand what is said&mdash;it is thoroughly native.&nbsp;
+We have been asking them if they will receive teachers, and they all
+say yes, and at once, for it means tomahawks, knives, and salt.&nbsp;
+They say, &ldquo;To-morrow we&rsquo;ll all go and get the two teachers
+at Munikahila and bring them here now.&rdquo;&nbsp; We here are in excellent
+health and spirits; a little disappointed at not being able to cross.&nbsp;
+Certainly we have not lived on the best, and we have camped anywhere.&nbsp;
+I like these mountaineers&mdash;free, independent, and kind.&nbsp; When
+they cook taro, if near, we get a hot taro to eat, and often they bring
+hot taro to the house.&nbsp; They bring their presents of taro and sugar-cane
+and at once walk away.&nbsp; They have very good houses, thatched with
+grass, some with a verandah on two sides, and all built six feet and
+more from the ground.&nbsp; When we were away yesterday, a wild boar
+from the bush took possession of the village.&nbsp; Often when the natives
+are in the bush they have to seek refuge in climbing trees from the
+savage tuskers, especially if they have been speared, and are determined
+to fight.&nbsp; Our flag is flying, to signify that it is &ldquo;resting
+day.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The natives very seldom bury their dead, leaving <!-- page 113--><a name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 113</span>the
+body in a house set apart for it, which they often visit.&nbsp; When
+a number of deaths take place, they leave the village and settle somewhere
+else not far off.&nbsp; There is one grave here, near to our house,
+on which a tobacco plant is growing, a bamboo pipe, the property of
+the deceased, alongside, and a few sticks on end with yams on top.&nbsp;
+When they do bury, the body is placed standing in the grave.</p>
+<p>4<i>th</i>.&mdash;We left Kenakagara this morning, accompanied by
+natives.&nbsp; Our friends soon left us, and we lost our way, and after
+some hours&rsquo; travelling found ourselves in a thick bush and surrounded
+by precipices.&nbsp; It has been up hill and down dale with a vengeance,
+trying hard to get to the south-west.&nbsp; At last, wet through and
+thoroughly tired, we camped to have breakfast, dinner, and supper in
+one.&nbsp; We were ten hours on the tramp, and carrying our bags, so
+feel ready for a night&rsquo;s rest.</p>
+<p>5<i>th</i>.&mdash;We see where we are; but how to get out is the
+problem to be solved.&nbsp; Ruatoka has gone to look for a track.&nbsp;
+We had a fine night, a roaring fire at our feet, and so enjoyed sleep.&nbsp;
+Camping this way is preferable to living in native huts, far more comfortable
+and enjoyable; but for our work it is better for us to be with the natives.&nbsp;
+Uakinumu bears south-west-by-west from us now, and could be reached
+in a few hours, if only we could get down the precipice.&nbsp; Rua has
+returned.&nbsp; When some distance off, he heard cooeying, and responded,
+when our old friend, who <!-- page 114--><a name="page114"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 114</span>had
+been looking for us in a great state of fear, shouted his name.&nbsp;
+Rua told him to follow, and he did so, arriving at the camp soon after.&nbsp;
+He was so excited he could not speak, but embraced us all round, and
+then sat down.</p>
+<p>After breakfast, we set off, each carrying a bundle.&nbsp; The travelling
+was difficult, until we arrived on the path leading to the creek and
+up to Uakinumu.&nbsp; When on the spur, the old man shouted for the
+youths to come and help us; they cooeyed back, and we hoped to see them
+in about an hour, or at the most two hours; after waiting and no one
+coming, we descended, and when at the creek met a youth coming slowly
+along and saying others were following.&nbsp; I felt sure they delayed
+their coming to meet us until we should be near the village, where they
+would take the bags and receive tobacco and salt; but they were sold;
+we trudged on, and would not let them have a bag.&nbsp; We took no notice
+of those we met, and to their solicitations asking to carry bags we
+turned a deaf ear.&nbsp; The chief&rsquo;s eldest son came along and
+begged to have my bag.&nbsp; No, on no condition.&nbsp; The poor old
+chief was in a sad state; but as we are likely to require their services
+some future day, it is necessary to teach them that for work or service
+they will be paid, but for skulking, and hoping to get tobacco and salt,
+their hopes are futile.&nbsp; We reached the village, and Oriope did
+all he possibly could to keep us.&nbsp; No, on we will go; his sleepy
+boys may sleep on.&nbsp; We gave him and <!-- page 115--><a name="page115"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 115</span>his
+little grandchild who accompanied him presents, bade him good-bye, and
+away.</p>
+<p>6<i>th</i>.&mdash;Here, and in all the villages we have been, we
+have seen very few women and girls, and very few of the young men seem
+to be married.&nbsp; Do they kill the girls when born?</p>
+<p>7<i>th</i>.&mdash;Left this morning for a mountain close by, hoping
+to see the windings of the Laroki from it.&nbsp; We had to descend 1000
+feet, and then ascend 1800.&nbsp; From the droppings about, I should
+say the cassowary and pig abound in the gullies about this mountain.&nbsp;
+We found on the top a deserted village and five cocoanut-trees.&nbsp;
+We could make nothing of the Laroki, because of thick bush on top.&nbsp;
+We saw that the Munikahila creek flows west and south, until, due north
+of this, it turns sharp and flows north-by-east and falls into the Goldie.&nbsp;
+We reached camp with thoroughly whetted appetites, and enjoyed breakfast
+and dinner of pigeons and taro.&nbsp; We call the mountain Mount Elsie.&nbsp;
+It is north of Vetura, and west and south of Keninumu.&nbsp; We have
+seen four new villages close to one another where a teacher could work
+well.&nbsp; We have now five positions for teachers, and I hope before
+we have finished with this inland trip to have thirty, giving four and
+five villages to each teacher.&nbsp; In crossing one of the spurs, a
+native and his son brought us bananas, and water in a bamboo.&nbsp;
+It is difficult to drink out of a bamboo.&nbsp; Place the open end to
+the mouth, raise gradually, look out, here it <!-- page 116--><a name="page116"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 116</span>comes&mdash;steady.&nbsp;
+Ah, too much raised; it is a deluge streaming over you and nearly choking
+you.&nbsp; Try again&mdash;well, a little better, yet far from perfect.&nbsp;
+Choking, are you?&nbsp; Never mind, practise, and you will soon be an
+expert&mdash;a native in drinking, truly.&nbsp; The natives have been
+having a feast.&nbsp; They began with boiled bananas and finished with
+a large snake cooked in pots.&nbsp; It was cut up and divided out amongst
+all&mdash;sixteen eggs were found in her, a little larger than a good-sized
+fowl&rsquo;s egg.&nbsp; They seemed to relish it much, and the gravy
+was much thought of.&nbsp; They say pig is nothing compared to snake.&nbsp;
+Ah, well, tastes differ.</p>
+<p>9<i>th</i>.&mdash;We had a few noisy strangers in the village, and
+they seemed to be anxious that all they had to say should be heard in
+every house.&nbsp; The conversation is kept up by the inmates of the
+various houses, and at times all are speaking and trying to drown one
+another.&nbsp; A lull comes, and you fancy the turmoil is ended, and
+so roll on your side for a sleep; but, alas, it was only drawing breath,
+the noise being perhaps worse than before.&nbsp; Our chief and his wife
+had a quarrel over something or other last evening.&nbsp; Of course
+the woman had the best of it.&nbsp; Strange, she said very little, but
+that little seemed to be to the point.&nbsp; Every now and again he
+would shout, <i>Pirikava</i>! <i>pirikava</i>! <i>pirikava</i>!&nbsp;
+(Dear me! dear me! dear me!), and then scream and rage.&nbsp; The wife
+would then laugh at him, which made him worse, <!-- page 117--><a name="page117"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 117</span>screaming
+and dancing more than ever.&nbsp; She would then say something, which
+he would answer, and so quieted him down a little.&nbsp; All have gone
+hunting to-day&mdash;men, women, and children, pigs and dogs.&nbsp;
+Before leaving, they told us if we saw any one sneaking about, we were
+to be sure to shoot them; but if they came up openly to us, and pointed
+to the nose and stomach, they were friends, and had come for salt and
+tobacco.&nbsp; We get our water in canvas bags, and teachers or missionaries
+coming inland will require a set of water-bags made from the very best
+canvas.</p>
+<p>11<i>th</i>.&mdash;A number of natives have gone to Port Moresby,
+to help Rua and Maka with tomahawks, salt, &amp;c.&nbsp; After they
+left, we went to the bush, and cut down a number of trees for posts
+for a house.&nbsp; The chief, Poroko, has given us land, at an elevation
+of 1260 feet; splendid view all round; and if not healthy, I know not
+where to go, unless it be to the top of Mount Owen Stanley.&nbsp; There
+will be plenty of room for taro, sugar-cane, and coffee plantations.&nbsp;
+A woman often passes us with a frightful load of taro and sugar-cane
+on her back, and on the top of all an infant in a net basket.&nbsp;
+She goes to the next house, swings the infant kit off first, placing
+it on the ground, where the infant in it kicks and rolls, but cannot
+get out until the kits of taro and sugar-cane are safely housed.</p>
+<p>14<i>th</i>.&mdash;This morning, after an early breakfast, we <!-- page 118--><a name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span>started
+with the Port Moresby natives for Munikahila, they being anxious to
+secure a supply of betel-nuts to return with.&nbsp; Have promised our
+old friend Oriope of Uakinumu, before we started on the Eikiri trip,
+that if he led us across and gave us bearers, all should have tomahawks,
+knives, etc.&nbsp; He did not carry out his part, and the bearers from
+him returned, leaving us inland.&nbsp; I was anxious to pay them for
+what they did, so we went on there with tomahawks, tobacco, and salt.&nbsp;
+We were about two miles from the village, when we shouted, and were
+replied to, and soon four young fellows came rushing along, in a great
+state of perspiration and very excited, rubbing our chins and throwing
+their arms around us, highly delighted that we had returned.&nbsp; They
+were not going to serve us as they did the last time.&nbsp; We reached
+the village, and were seated with strangers and surrounded by old friends,
+when Oriope, who had been on his plantation, came along to where we
+were, nearly breathless, and streaming with perspiration; he threw his
+arms around me, embraced me, rubbing his dirty moist cheeks on mine,
+sitting down and not speaking for some time.&nbsp; When he began, he
+said he was afraid we were terribly offended, and would not return;
+but, having returned to him, we must stay.&nbsp; No, we cannot; we must
+return to Keninumu that night.&nbsp; Ah, he could manage it; he would
+have us tied, and so detain us.&nbsp; Four coast natives who knew the
+Koiari language were with us.&nbsp; We told our old <!-- page 119--><a name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 119</span>friend
+we wanted a large quantity of betel-nuts, and that he had better set
+out at once for them.&nbsp; Soon the women and lads were off.&nbsp;
+We then removed to our old house on the rock, and there told him, through
+the interpreter, what we had expected of him, and that he had not done
+it, but that having told him we should pay them, we had come now to
+do so for the journey made.&nbsp; We gave our tomahawks, tobacco, and
+salt, and the old man was truly delighted, saying, &ldquo;I and my people
+will take you wherever we may go with safety.&rdquo;&nbsp; He does not
+go to sea on the other side, as Mr. Lawes supposed, and says it is impossible
+to cross over unless we go up by Yule Island, and there he says it is
+dangerous, because of the cannibals.&nbsp; In returning, I saw, for
+the first time in New Guinea, a bush of the real South Sea Island <i>kava</i>
+(<i>Piper methysticum</i>).</p>
+<p>17<i>th</i>.&mdash;We have just had a service, and through Kena we
+have told the natives the object of our coming and staying, that they
+might know of the true God, and of Jesus Christ the Saviour.&nbsp; It
+was interesting to mark the different expressions on their faces as
+they heard for the first time of God&mdash;the God of love, and that
+as His servants we were here.&nbsp; When told of the resurrection they
+looked at one another; some laughed, others seemed serious.&nbsp; They
+were very particular in their inquiries as to the name of the Great
+Spirit, and of His Son&mdash;forgetting, and returning to hear it again.</p>
+<p><!-- page 120--><a name="page120"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 120</span>18<i>th</i>.&mdash;Here
+we are at Uakinumu for another trip; but alas, alas! cannot get carriers.&nbsp;
+The young men are all off wallaby-hunting, so we must start.&nbsp; This
+evening, a woman came in with several bamboos of grubs, which were cooked
+in the bamboos, then spread on leaves; some salt was dissolved in the
+mouth and squirted over all, and it was amusing to see the gusto with
+which men, women, and children partook.&nbsp; Oriope is very persistent
+in wanting a teacher.&nbsp; He was greatly delighted when I gave him
+a large knife; he examined it all over, then pressed it with tender
+affection to his bosom.&nbsp; Fearing lest some friends who are with
+him at present might ask it from him, he returned it to me, requesting
+me to keep it until they left.</p>
+<p>20<i>th</i>.&mdash;Last night, after turning in, I heard a peculiar
+noise, as of some one in great distress, then loud speaking in a falsetto
+voice, and knew then what was up&mdash;we had a spiritist in the village,
+and revelations were now about to be made.&nbsp; We were all named,
+and the places we were to visit.&nbsp; I felt somewhat anxious as to
+the revelation, for if it should be the least doubtful as to our going,
+no native would stir with us.&nbsp; However, the revelation, on being
+interpreted to us by Kena, was all right; we were good men, and kind,
+and the villages would all willingly receive us.&nbsp; The spirit dilated
+at length on the good qualities of foreign tobacco and the badness of
+the native stuff, and wound up by asking for some <!-- page 121--><a name="page121"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 121</span>foreign.&nbsp;
+Oriope at once got up and gave from his own stock what was wanted.&nbsp;
+These native spiritists are terrible nuisances; they get whatever they
+ask, and the natives believing so thoroughly in them, they have the
+power of upsetting all arrangements and causing serious trouble.&nbsp;
+This morning, I found our spirit friend to be a man who sat in our house
+all day yesterday, a stranger from an inland village.&nbsp; He has quite
+a different look from the other natives&mdash;an anxious, melancholy
+expression.&nbsp; While at morning coffee, he came and sat down alongside
+of us all right, and we learned from him that the spirit of a deceased
+friend comes into him, and then things are revealed, the spirit speaking
+through him.&nbsp; He says, when we were at Eikiri, a few weeks ago,
+he knew it, and told the people of his village of it.</p>
+<p>The wallaby-hunters are to come in this afternoon with great supplies.&nbsp;
+When sitting round the fire with our old chief, we asked him if he knew
+of any tailed folks about inland.&nbsp; &ldquo;Oh dear, yes.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+And then he gave us a perfect and laughable description of what must
+be some creature of the monkey tribe.&nbsp; It climbs, laughs, and talks
+a peculiar language of its own; it scratches the head, slaps the thigh,
+and sits down to eat like a man.&nbsp; I then said, &ldquo;But they
+are not really men?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Well, not exactly, but very
+near it; they are hairy all over, and some are perfectly black.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+The tail, according to his description, must be about a fathom long.&nbsp;
+We are to see them, <!-- page 122--><a name="page122"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 122</span>and
+must, he says, secure one or two, dead or alive.&nbsp; Our spirit is
+out in his prognostications, the wallaby-hunters have not returned,
+and we cannot leave to-morrow.</p>
+<p>21<i>st</i>.&mdash;Our spirit friend is quite out as yet, for here
+we are nursing Patience, and trying to make her a dear friend.&nbsp;
+We are promised a start to-morrow.&nbsp; In the evening, the hunters
+came in with large supplies of wallaby.&nbsp; They report innumerable
+horses and foreigners as having gone to Kupele; we suppose it to be
+Goldie&rsquo;s party.&nbsp; From to-day&rsquo;s shooting, the old man
+got a green parrot, and devoured it raw.&nbsp; Oriope dressed himself
+in his fighting gear, and went through a few antics; he looked a perfect
+fiend.&nbsp; He is very proud of a stone club he possesses with a piece
+broken off; he says it was broken in felling a tremendous fellow in
+a neighbouring village.&nbsp; He killed him.&nbsp; &ldquo;What, stand
+before me!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>22<i>nd</i>.&mdash;I was eating a banana this morning, when I was
+told not to throw the skin away, but hand it to them, which I did, when
+it was passed round and kissed by all with short ejaculations.&nbsp;
+I asked what it meant, and was told it was their manner of thanking
+the spirits for ripe bananas.&nbsp; We started at eight a.m. with eight
+carriers and our old friend, and twenty inland natives returning home
+with wallaby; one poor woman had two large kits on her back, and an
+infant in another, hanging in front of her.&nbsp; We were seven hours
+on the tramp, along a good path, on <!-- page 123--><a name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 123</span>which
+horses could get along well.&nbsp; The most difficult ascent was shortly
+after we left Uakinumu; but the path was good.&nbsp; The last hour of
+travelling was in a thunderstorm, with a regular tropical pour of rain.&nbsp;
+When we neared the village Marivaeanumu, the men came rushing out with
+their spears and shields, thinking it was an attacking party; but on
+seeing Maka, who was just behind the first native, and I following up,
+they shouted out, <i>Nao</i>, <i>nao</i>! (foreigners), and ran back
+with their spears.&nbsp; The village is small, and the houses very dilapidated;
+it is 1800 feet above sea-level.&nbsp; Maka was buying taro with salt,
+and having finished, some natives noticed damp salt adhering to his
+hand; they seized the hand, and in turn licked it until quite clean.&nbsp;
+Grains of salt falling were sought for and picked up.&nbsp; The shields
+here are the same as at Hood Bay, beautifully made.&nbsp; They are going
+to fight soon with another district, and are making great preparations
+in spears, clubs, and shields.</p>
+<p>23rd.&mdash;Our spiritist gave us a very short and indistinct s&eacute;ance
+last night.&nbsp; A man speared the other day in a wallaby hunt, near
+the Laroki, he told us, was dead.&nbsp; He seemed to be raving a great
+deal, and wound up the first part with, <i>Nao kuku daure</i> (Foreign
+tobacco is bad).&nbsp; Continuing to rave and disturb sleep, I told
+Oriope that, if that spirit did not at once go back where it came from,
+I should certainly have to make it; he reported what I said, and the
+spirit thought it advisable to leave.&nbsp; We started this morning
+<!-- page 124--><a name="page124"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 124</span>after
+a good breakfast, and had good travelling across a fine level country
+E.S.E. for about four hours, crossing several times the head of the
+Laroki: it is a magnificent country for horses.&nbsp; In somewhat thick
+scrub, a youth met the first of our party, and was fraternizing very
+feelingly with them: I appeared, and he took to his heels, and no calling
+of friends or foreigners could bring him back.&nbsp; We came suddenly
+upon a woman and two children, and, poor things! they went into a terrible
+state; nothing would comfort them; beads, tobacco, and salt lost their
+charm on them.&nbsp; The family pig was with them; it danced, grunted,
+advanced, retired, and finally made at me.&nbsp; In the morning I took
+a piece of plaster from my heel, and threw it into the fireplace; instant
+search was made for it by about a dozen natives; it was found, and handed
+back to me, they making signs that I should throw it somewhere else.&nbsp;
+Yesterday morning I unthinkingly put the loose hair from my comb into
+the fire, and great was the outcry.</p>
+<p>We are now in Nameanumu, in the Sogeri district, and in a fine house
+twelve feet from the ground.&nbsp; We are about 1530 feet above sea-level.&nbsp;
+Teachers here need have no difficulty about food; there is a great abundance
+all round of taro, banana, sugar-cane, and bread-fruit.&nbsp; A teacher
+with some &ldquo;go&rdquo; in him, and a good earnest wife to help him,
+would do well here.&nbsp; I am inclined to think an easier way here
+will be from Moumiri; but we have to travel with natives <!-- page 125--><a name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 125</span>where
+they can take us with safety to themselves.&nbsp; Sitting round the
+fire a little while ago, our spirit friend having just left us, an old
+woman shouted out to Oriope to look out, as the spirit was about to
+go through the thatch near to where he was sitting.&nbsp; Instant search
+was made, but nothing found.&nbsp; She then called out from her verandah
+that it had gone, as Rua and Maka were doing something with their guns.&nbsp;
+I may say the old woman was with us last night, and heard my threat.&nbsp;
+We have had the description here of some other animal that is in the
+Kupele and Moroka districts.&nbsp; It is a dangerous one to go near,
+and several have lost their lives from it.</p>
+<p>24<i>th</i>.&mdash;Very heavy rain.&nbsp; A number of people have
+come in from the villages to have a look at us, so I have to go through
+the process of baring arms and chest.&nbsp; This forenoon they described
+an animal to us that I think must be the tiger&mdash;a long animal,
+with a long tail and large paws, treads lightly when seeing its prey,
+and then bounds upon it, tearing the bowels out first.&nbsp; They say
+they are as long as the house&mdash;twelve feet.&nbsp; We are not prepared
+to tackle such, customers.&nbsp; Our host is a quiet man, with a very
+pleasing expression of countenance.&nbsp; I like the people much, and
+pray God the day is near when they shall have the Gospel preached unto
+them, and receive it, and know it to be the power of God unto salvation.&nbsp;
+Evil spirits reign over them, and the utterance of every rascally spiritist
+is thoroughly believed.</p>
+<p><!-- page 126--><a name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 126</span>They
+seem very much attached to their children, and in their own peculiar
+way, I dare say, love their wives.&nbsp; Husband and wife meeting after
+a separation is strange.&nbsp; Some who returned with us had been away
+for a fortnight; their wives looked pleased when they saw them, so did
+the husbands; not a word was spoken, only a look; clubs and spears were
+put down, and the husbands went to where other men were sitting, the
+wives to light fires and cook food; when cooked, the wife took it to
+the husband, who ate a little, gave away some, and then went and sat
+by his wife.&nbsp; I have noticed that the wives are particularly happy
+when preparing this return food.&nbsp; Oriope&rsquo;s wife, who accompanied
+us, is ill with a cold; I wished her to take a dose of chlorodyne, but
+she cried and hesitated much; the old man then took the cup and told
+her to look; he drank some of it, said it was not bad, and then pressed
+her to drink it off, which she did.</p>
+<p>25<i>th</i>.&mdash;We left this morning at eight, and arrived at
+Orofedabe, in the Favele district, at one p.m.&nbsp; The walking was
+good and steady, the first few miles along the valley beneath a mountain
+in the Sogeri district, which we called Mount Nisbet, and the range
+near to Eikiri.&nbsp; We crossed the Laroki several times, and sat near
+its head; then ascended an easy ridge of the Owen Stanley Range.&nbsp;
+We travelled for about two hours along this ridge, then descended, crossing
+two streams, which we suppose to be the head streams <!-- page 127--><a name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 127</span>of
+the Kemp Welch, flowing into Hood Bay.&nbsp; There are six small villages
+on ridges close by, high mountains all round, and not far off the mountain
+on which the wild animal lives.&nbsp; They tried to persuade us that
+this was Meroka, and there was no use our going further; but we could
+not believe it, and I brought my compass out, and pointed to them where
+Eikiri, Sogeri, Kupele, and Hapele were, and told them where I expected
+to find Meroka, which cannot be very far off.&nbsp; When they saw I
+knew something of our position, they said we could not get to Meroka,
+because of rocks and wild beasts.&nbsp; At the village we slept the
+last two nights they did all they could to detain us, because of the
+salt and beads.&nbsp; They were assisted by Oriope, who was anxious
+that all should go to his cousin and friends, with whom we were staying.&nbsp;
+In a conversation they had under the house, shortly after we arrived,
+I could hear sufficient to enable me to understand they would keep us
+there, and not let other villages get salt and beads.&nbsp; I got thoroughly
+vexed with the old man, and told him he could return home, and that
+unless we saw numerous villages with plenty of people we should not
+again return here.&nbsp; He turned right round, and told us we should
+see Favele and Meroka, and many villages, only we must return to his
+cousin&rsquo;s; that was all right, we certainly should return.&nbsp;
+This morning, I told him to remain and take care of his wife; that the
+people here would lead us and carry our things.&nbsp; <!-- page 128--><a name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 128</span>He
+begged of me to leave some of the things to ensure our return, and I
+did so.&nbsp; Some of the people here are very dark and others very
+light.</p>
+<p>26<i>th</i>.&mdash;They tried hard to prevent our going to Meroka
+this morning, saying we should be eaten by the <i>Jakoni</i> (wild beast)&mdash;and
+how could they return?&nbsp; That would not do&mdash;go I must; so I
+got the things out, and asked some Meroka natives, who had come in,
+to pick them up and let us start.&nbsp; They refused, and joined in
+with our friends, saying we had better remain.&nbsp; No; I must see
+Meroka, and until I saw it not a taro would be bought nor a pile of
+salt given.&nbsp; They all sat down, looking true savages.&nbsp; After
+some time, I said, &ldquo;Meroka, or we return at once.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+I got my bag and went on to the path; they got up, and called to me
+to come back&mdash;they would go to Meroka, but leave the things, and
+return here to sleep.&nbsp; No; I must have the things; I might want
+to sleep at Meroka.&nbsp; That was terrible, the salt would be finished,
+and there would be none for them here.&nbsp; Would I not consent to
+their taro being bought, and then they would go with me?&nbsp; No; Meroka
+first, and taro when we return.</p>
+<p>Seeing there was nothing for it&mdash;that go I would&mdash;they
+consented, and the Meroka folks picked up the things, and away we went.&nbsp;
+It was a short walk across the side of a ridge, down about 600 feet
+and up to 1500, and then along another ridge.&nbsp; We soon had crowds
+to see us, men, women, and children; <!-- page 129--><a name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 129</span>and
+all were delighted, for we bought their taro.&nbsp; The village we stayed
+at was new, and they told us formerly they lived further in on the mountain,
+but a man was eaten by the <i>Jakoni</i>, and they came down.&nbsp;
+A number of natives were in mourning for the man eaten.&nbsp; After
+some time, we got up to ascend the ridge, to have a good view of the
+villages and decide on our position.&nbsp; They tried hard to prevent
+us, but we went on, a few following to the next village.&nbsp; They
+pretended great fear of the <i>Jakoni</i>, and at some places begged
+of us to tread lightly, and not to speak.&nbsp; It was all a ruse to
+get us back.&nbsp; We went on, and up to the highest village, where
+we had a splendid view.&nbsp; We counted fourteen villages on the ridges
+in the Meroka basin and on the other side of the river we had crossed,
+and as many more known as Havele.&nbsp; I believe it would be much easier
+to get here from Eikiri than from Sogeri.&nbsp; The natives of Oriramamo,
+the highest village, told us they went from there to Eikiri in one day.</p>
+<p>The people of Meroka are very mixed, some very dark, others very
+light.&nbsp; Some of the women had quite an Eastern Polynesian look;
+some of the children were well-formed, and really pretty.&nbsp; A few
+men had light-coloured whiskers; curly heads abounded, although a number
+had straight hair.&nbsp; They say they are not Koiari.&nbsp; The Koiari
+comprises Munikahila, Eikiri, Sogeri, Taburi, Makapili Pakari; and Eikiri
+is N.W. from Oriramamo; Mount <!-- page 130--><a name="page130"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 130</span>Bellamy
+is W.N.W.&nbsp; A high round mountain, I have named Ben Cruachan, east;
+Mount Nisbet, W.S.W.&nbsp; The high rock on the easterly side of Mount
+Nisbet is just over the house where we slept, and will be known in future
+as the Clachan.&nbsp; They say there are five kinds of wild animals
+on the mountains at the back, and but for these they could easily cross
+to Kupele.&nbsp; The Jakoni, Gomina, and Agila are very large and fierce.&nbsp;
+The Papara and Gadana are small, but fierce.&nbsp; We were eating biscuits,
+and they begged for a very small piece each, to keep as a charm to help
+them catch pigs.&nbsp; Hairs from the beard are in great demand as charms.&nbsp;
+Having seen all we wanted, and not being able to persuade the natives
+to accompany us up to the mountain to see the wild animals, I decided
+to return to Orofedabe; so we returned to the village, gave the taro
+we bought to the people, paid our attendants and for the house where
+our things were, and away we went.&nbsp; Our friends were glad to see
+us, and rejoiced greatly when the taboo was taken off the salt, and
+taro was bought.&nbsp; We are having rain and thunderstorms every afternoon.</p>
+<p>27<i>th</i>.&mdash;Maka poised a stick twelve feet long on his finger;
+the natives tried it and failed; again Maka did it, and all who were
+looking on came to the conclusion it was very easy for him to do, as
+a spirit held it for him.&nbsp; In each place we have been, when at
+prayers, all the natives are most respectful, <!-- page 131--><a name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 131</span>keeping
+perfect silence and bending their heads.&nbsp; We had a fine tramp back
+to-day, and a refreshing bath in the Laroki after it.&nbsp; We have
+paid our carriers, and they are rejoicing greatly.&nbsp; We were glad
+to find our old friend and his wife well, and the things we left just
+as we hung them up.&nbsp; They are very anxious to have teachers here.&nbsp;
+We were telling them that we could see no people, and they have gone
+and brought in great crowds, saying, &ldquo;No people! what are these?&rdquo;&nbsp;
+I cut up tobacco and spread it out on a leaf in the centre of the crowd,
+and called out, &ldquo;For Sogeri.&rdquo;&nbsp; One of their number
+was appointed by them, and he distributed it, all sitting quietly round.&nbsp;
+I got some salt in a paper, and did as with the tobacco.&nbsp; All rose,
+and in order approached, took some and retired, leaving the remainder,
+nearly half, for a very old man.&nbsp; The beads I gave to the women,
+the men saying they ought to have had them too.&nbsp; &ldquo;Come and
+live with us; there is no place like Sogeri&mdash;it is good, it is
+large, it is peaceful, and there is plenty of food.&rdquo;&nbsp; So
+say the Sogerians.&nbsp; I was sitting on the ladder of the house, the
+crowd sitting round.&nbsp; Rua was in the bush with his gun; he fired
+at a bird, and it was amusing to see the simultaneous jerk of the crowd
+when they heard the shot.</p>
+<p>28<i>th</i>.&mdash;Last night, a chief, Biaiori, of Eribagu, slept
+in the house with us, to be ready to lead us to his village and other
+villages about in the morning.&nbsp; We <!-- page 132--><a name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 132</span>started
+about half-past seven; but it was evident at the start he had been talked
+over during the night in quiet whisperings, so as not to take us anywhere
+but his own village.&nbsp; We walked about a mile and a half, and came
+to his village, in a fine dry position, much preferable to the one we
+had left&mdash;good houses, one house floored with cedar slabs, and
+having a fine verandah all round.&nbsp; I wished to see a chief I had
+met yesterday, Jaroga, and was told he was at the next village, so we
+up with our bundles and away for about half a mile further on, to a
+nice clean village.&nbsp; I at once asked Jaroga to lead us to the places
+he named yesterday; he was quite willing, and began pointing in the
+various directions, and naming the villages, but was soon silenced by
+signs and words from others; he then said he could not go; so we left
+to go to Epakari; a young man very much attached to Maka, and who has
+been with us for ten days, having promised yesterday to lead us there.&nbsp;
+We had to carry our bags&mdash;not a very agreeable job.&nbsp; We had
+great excitement at leaving, our old chief insisting on our going back
+to Uakinumu; but we had discarded him, and were determined to find our
+own way should Someri, Maka&rsquo;s friend, fail us.&nbsp; I gave orders
+to keep a good look-out on Someri, who was carrying a bundle, and he
+was given into Maka&rsquo;s care.&nbsp; Our young friend was very quiet,
+and tried skulking behind and moving on fast ahead.&nbsp; When crossing
+<!-- page 133--><a name="page133"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 133</span>a
+ridge about three miles from the village, I was leading, when we heard
+Maka calling for Someri.&nbsp; Rua at once returned, and found the bird
+had flown, leaving the bundle, but carrying with him the camp tomahawk,
+which Maka had foolishly let him have to cut a stick with.&nbsp; It
+would be folly to return to get the tomahawk, so we kept south and west
+for some distance, when we came to a deserted village; then we turned
+west.&nbsp; We crossed the Laroki several times before we came into
+the open country; at our last crossing we met a company of natives,
+all armed, on watch for Makapili natives, who were expected to attack
+them.&nbsp; They took our bundles, and led us to a small village, where
+we met some of our Marivaeanumu friends, who led us to their village
+and to our old house.&nbsp; A young child called Maka was presented
+for presents, the father telling Maka he called the child after him,
+because he was his friend when we were here last.&nbsp; We have now
+the open country before us, and expect no trouble in getting along.&nbsp;
+The natives are all unsettled at present, and every man we meet is armed.&nbsp;
+I can see the country better to-day than when here last week.&nbsp;
+Marivaeanumu is on a rise near the hills of Eikiri and north-north-west
+from Sogeri.&nbsp; The latter district is in a valley between the Owen
+Stanley Range and Mount Nisbet, to the south-west of it.&nbsp; Eribagu
+would make a good station for the Sogeri district.&nbsp; This place
+would be a suitable station being at the <!-- page 134--><a name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>head
+of the plain that reaches away to the Astrolabe on the one side, and
+up to Vetura and Uakinumu on the other, stretching east by Mount Nisbet,
+and away east and south, by the country at the back of Mapakapa.&nbsp;
+The Laroki rises in the Owen Stanley Range, and is the drain for the
+Sogeri district and all the plain; it is very circuitous, and near here
+very deep and slow, flowing west.</p>
+<p>29<i>th</i>.&mdash;For nearly six hours we have been travelling with
+our bags, and I can honestly say I feel tired.&nbsp; We are now at a
+new village&mdash;the houses just going up&mdash;on the top of the high
+green hill in front of Munikahila, overlooking the Kupa Moumiri valley.&nbsp;
+The village is named Keninumu, and consists of four houses at present,
+two on high trees and two on high rocks.&nbsp; We have pitched our tent
+close by, and intend resting until Monday, when we hope to start for
+the plain&mdash;a very fine country, but no natives.&nbsp; This part
+of the plain is dry and barren, with stunted gum-trees.&nbsp; A party
+met us when near the village, and a woman with a child on her shoulder,
+I suppose seeing me look tired, insisted on my giving her my bag.&nbsp;
+I looked at the child, and wondered how she was going to manage, but
+that was soon arranged; she made the child sit on her left shoulder,
+holding her by the hair; then she took my bundle, and away she went.&nbsp;
+Some young men have come in from one of the districts we wish to visit,
+and I hope to keep them until we leave; it will be a help and of great
+<!-- page 135--><a name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 135</span>value
+as an introduction at this time of trouble.&nbsp; We are 1440 feet above
+sea-level.</p>
+<p>A fortnight ago there was a great wallaby hunt down at Moumiri, and
+natives from all the districts round were present.&nbsp; A native of
+Munikahila speared a man from Tabori, who died soon after, so now Makipili,
+Epakari, and Efari are said to have joined on with Tabori, and unitedly
+mean to attack Munikahila.&nbsp; All the natives condemn the murder
+of the man, because of the time and place.</p>
+<p>31<i>st</i>.&mdash;Natives all excitement, expecting Munikahila to
+be attacked.&nbsp; Every evening the men go armed to Munikahila, and
+the women, children, dogs, and pigs to the bush.&nbsp; I am sorry our
+Keninumu friends should consider it their duty to assist the murderers.&nbsp;
+The natives of the district to which the murdered man belonged are quietly
+biding their time, hunting wallaby close by us.&nbsp; The kind woman
+who assisted me the other day has a son by her first husband living
+at Keninumu, and for a long time she has not seen him, he being afraid
+to come here.&nbsp; She knows that Maka was returning yesterday, and
+felt sure her son would accompany him.&nbsp; When some distance from
+here, Maka fired a shot, to let us know he was coming, to which we responded,
+assuring him all was right.&nbsp; On hearing the shot, the poor woman
+became quite excited, came and sat down by our fire, got up and got
+us firewood, sat down again, telling Kena to get the taro cooked for
+Maka, rose again and <!-- page 136--><a name="page136"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 136</span>fetched
+more firewood, then sat down in front of the path, looking steadily
+and anxiously for the travellers.&nbsp; Poor body! they came in sight,
+but her son was not one of them.&nbsp; She seemed to feel it very much,
+rose, went to her house, and was not seen again until this morning.&nbsp;
+God grant the day is near when the song the heavenly host sang, &ldquo;Glory
+to God in the highest, peace on earth and good will toward men,&rdquo;
+shall be known and enjoyed here!</p>
+<p><i>September</i> 1<i>st</i>.&mdash;We left this morning at seven
+o&rsquo;clock and drew up at Makapili at four p.m., resting by the way.&nbsp;
+For salt, tobacco, and beads, we had help all the way.&nbsp; What appears
+a fine level plain in the distance turns out to be a fine country, full
+of ridges and luxuriant valleys, abounding in every kind of native vegetable.&nbsp;
+From the departure this morning until our bringing-up we could have
+ridden horses at a fine canter along the ridges from one to another.&nbsp;
+This is the best country I have yet seen in New Guinea, and the natives
+seem very kind and friendly.&nbsp; At the Laroki we had to strip, and,
+just above small rapids, holding on by a long line fastened to poles
+on each side, we crossed over.&nbsp; The natives have the line to help
+them when the river is up.&nbsp; We called at several villages on the
+ridges, passed others, some on large table-rocks.&nbsp; Fancy a table-rock
+with twenty or thirty houses on it.&nbsp; At Chokinumu, a village 1600
+feet above the sea, S.E. from Marivaenumu seven miles, we alarmed the
+people so that they rushed <!-- page 137--><a name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>away,
+leaving us the village.&nbsp; Shortly a man came back, pretending to
+be very unconcerned, chewing betel-nut; we soon were friends, and he
+called out to the others, and they returned.&nbsp; We told him where
+we were going, and he said he and his wife would accompany us, as we
+were the first foreigners who had ever been to his village, and he would
+not leave us.&nbsp; At other villages they also cleared out, screaming
+terribly.&nbsp; Gimenumu, 1900 feet above sea-level, and two miles east
+from Chokinumu, will make a fine mission station&mdash;a large village,
+fine plantations, and plenty of water.&nbsp; We crossed several streams
+from the Astrolabe Range, all flowing into the Laroki.&nbsp; The whole
+drainage of the Astrolabe Range and of this country falls into the Laroki.&nbsp;
+We are now in Vaiako, Makipili district, 2250 feet, in a really lovely
+spot.</p>
+<p>There are a great many natives in this district.&nbsp; About four
+miles from here we passed a deserted village on a table-rock, at one
+time the home of this people; but the Sogeri natives came over and killed
+eleven of them, and the others thought it time to settle somewhere else.&nbsp;
+We have now a splendid view of Mount Owen Stanley, due north of us,
+and rising far away, clear and distinct above a thick mass of cloud.&nbsp;
+Mount Bellamy stands alone, with a bare south-east side, and Mount Nisbet
+just across from here, behind which is Sogeri, so much dreaded by this
+people.&nbsp; On all the ridges stretching away to <!-- page 138--><a name="page138"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 138</span>the
+eastward from here behind Kapakapa are natives.&nbsp; A woman, coming
+to have a look at us, spied our black dog, Misi Dake, and off she went,
+climbing a tree, kit and all, quicker than I ever saw a native climb
+before.&nbsp; We met a fine old patriarch in a stream about two miles
+from here, and the meeting with our friend from Chokinumu was most affecting,
+touching chins and falling into one another&rsquo;s arms weeping.&nbsp;
+He sat down beside me with grave dignity, and the woman from Chokinumu
+sat in front of him, chanting and weeping.&nbsp; We had strawberries
+coming along, with little or none of the flavour of the home strawberry.&nbsp;
+The raspberry bush is very abundant.</p>
+<p>2<i>nd</i>.&mdash;Just after sunrise we had a great crowd up at the
+tent to have a peep at us.&nbsp; At eight o&rsquo;clock, we started
+for the summit of the Astrolabe, to have a look at the sea.&nbsp; It
+is very broken on the summit, and we had a good deal of ascending and
+descending before we got over Kaili, to be disappointed in not seeing
+the sea, the fog hanging thick under our feet.&nbsp; We returned by
+a very circuitous path, passing several villages built on rocks and
+trees.&nbsp; On one large table-rock was a snug village, and to the
+east of the rock four large posts beautifully carved.&nbsp; On feast
+days, the food is collected close to these, and a platform is fixed
+to the posts, on which dancing takes place.&nbsp; We returned at three
+p.m.&nbsp; The old chief soon followed us up to the camp with a large
+present of food, and saying he hoped we would soon return.&nbsp; <!-- page 139--><a name="page139"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 139</span>I
+hope the same.&nbsp; After some delay, so that it might not appear as
+payment for the present, we gave our present to the old chief; when
+he got the tomahawk, he wept for joy, looked at his friends, then at
+us, pressed it to his bosom, and then kissed it.&nbsp; The chiefs name
+is Kunia.</p>
+<p>3<i>rd</i>.&mdash;We left Makipili this morning at eight o&rsquo;clock,
+and came along leisurely, arriving at Chokinumu at half-past ten.&nbsp;
+The chief and his wife who accompanied us pressed us to stay a night
+in their village, and, seeing it would displease them if we went on,
+we consented.&nbsp; We had a thorough downpour of rain in the afternoon,
+after a very hot sun, the thunder rolling all round us.&nbsp; The chief
+Lohiamalaka and his wife are exceedingly kind and attentive; they have
+kept close by us since we left here on Monday.&nbsp; I am sorry for
+the Makipili people; they are so afraid of Sogeri, that they have left
+their houses, and are living in the bush and under the shelter of rocks.&nbsp;
+Sogeri, Makipili says, will listen to no conditions of peace.&nbsp;
+Several overtures have been made, but all are useless.&nbsp; We were
+told at several places that if we ventured to Makipili we should never
+return; but we have been there, were treated kindly, and pressed to
+return.</p>
+<p>4<i>th</i>.&mdash;Using our blankets yesterday as a flag for our
+tent, they got so wet that it required a day to dry them, so we decided
+to remain here and visit the Laroki Falls.&nbsp; Ten days ago, we found
+from the <!-- page 140--><a name="page140"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 140</span>natives
+that they were near here.&nbsp; The native name is <i>Round</i>.&nbsp;
+We found the falls in a deep gorge formed by the west end of Astrolabe
+and east end of Vetura Range.&nbsp; On each side of the gorge the mountains
+run sharp down, in many places precipitous rocks.&nbsp; The falls are
+E. from Port Moresby, E.S.E. from Moumili, and S.E. from Vetura proper.&nbsp;
+They are grand, and well worth seeing.&nbsp; I wish we had seen them
+from below.&nbsp; For a long distance up there are small falls and rapids.&nbsp;
+The water comes surging on, and then takes a fearful leap of many hundred
+feet on to a ledge, and from there to the boiling cauldron below.&nbsp;
+The noise is deafening.&nbsp; Where we stood, nearly level with the
+water, it was 1340 feet above sea-level, and I do not think that from
+there to the cauldron could be less than 900 feet.&nbsp; I think it
+may be possible to get to them from the north side by Mangara, and then
+we can rightly tell the height of the falls.</p>
+<p>5<i>th</i>.&mdash;Left Chokinumu this morning at eight, and had a
+pleasant walk for three hours, ascending gradually the Astrolabe until
+we reached the summit at the back of Tupuselei, 2300 feet high.&nbsp;
+We were resting before descending, when a native party appeared and
+approached us, somewhat scared.&nbsp; They said on coming up they heard
+the noise as of chopping wood (we were marking trees).&nbsp; They came
+on, and saw through the bush a white man, and at once went back; then,
+hearing as if natives were with him speaking in Koiari, they returned
+and determined to <!-- page 141--><a name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 141</span>meet.&nbsp;
+They were much pleased at receiving a present of salt.&nbsp; We descended
+on the west side of the Astrolabe; the descent, being steep and difficult,
+took us some time.&nbsp; In the afternoon we arrived at Janara, near
+to Efari, at the back of Pyramid Point, the Astrolabe bearing north.&nbsp;
+Our friend Lohiamalaka, the chief of Geminumu Monito, and three youths
+are with us.&nbsp; I have never met a kinder and more friendly native
+than Lohiamalaka.&nbsp; Janara is a good large district, and seems to
+have a number of natives.&nbsp; The village we are in is 600 feet above
+sea-level.&nbsp; Tupuselei is the nearest mission station, and a teacher
+placed here or at Efari would have constant communication with that
+place.&nbsp; I was the first to enter the village.&nbsp; They had heard
+us cooeying to one another; so only saw one man, and he tried to look
+very unconcerned, with a bamboo pipe, trying to light it, but too excited
+to succeed.&nbsp; The women had shut themselves indoors with the children,
+and the men had gone into the bush close by with their weapons.</p>
+<p>6<i>th</i>.&mdash;From Janara to Epakari there are several steep
+ridges to go up and down, and the last ascent is truly steep.&nbsp;
+It took us three good steady hours&rsquo; walking and climbing to get
+to Karikatana, the first of six villages in this district.&nbsp; Dawes
+and Stone were at a village, I believe, on a ridge nearer to Port Moresby.&nbsp;
+The chief, Nikanivaipua, received us graciously, and insisted on our
+taking his house.&nbsp; We paid off our friends, and they departed well
+pleased.&nbsp; We received <!-- page 142--><a name="page142"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 142</span>presents
+of cooked food and smoked wallaby.&nbsp; They were prepared for us,
+having been shouted to an hour before we arrived at the village by our
+friend Lohiamalaka.&nbsp; The village looks to be in a fine healthy
+position, close to the west end of the Astrolabe, the high bluff bearing
+N.E.&nbsp; They have plenty of all kinds of food.&nbsp; We crossed from
+the Janara, a good-sized mountain torrent flowing S.W. to Bootless Inlet.&nbsp;
+We are 700 feet high.&nbsp; High bluff of Astrolabe, N.E.; Bootless
+Inlet, S.S.W.; peak of Astrolabe above Kaili, E.S.E.</p>
+<p>7<i>th</i>.&mdash;Our friend Lohiamalaka turned up again last evening;
+he did not like leaving us.&nbsp; This morning he really set off, promising
+to visit us at Port Moresby in October; that is, not this moon, nor
+the next, but the one that follows.&nbsp; I asked for a little ginger
+to eat, and they have brought it me in bundles.&nbsp; It is really good
+when green, with salt.&nbsp; A large number of natives attended our
+service, and were truly orderly&mdash;not a whisper, and during prayer
+every head bent.&nbsp; On the Astrolabe, the other day, Lohiamalaka
+said he felt anxious for us in entering Janara.&nbsp; Rua, through Kena,
+told him not to fear anything on our account, as the Great Spirit was
+with us, and no harm could come near us.&nbsp; Last evening, he was
+telling the people here of his fears, and what Rua said, &ldquo;and
+how true it was the Great Spirit or something is with them.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+At all the villages Lohiamalaka repeated all he could remember of what
+he had been told, and of our singing and praying.&nbsp; <!-- page 143--><a name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 143</span>Every
+evening he would sit at the tent door and get us to sing for the benefit
+of a crowd of natives outside, who, having heard from himself of our
+musical powers, refused to go to their homes at sunset, and insisted
+on remaining until after <i>noko</i> (singing).&nbsp; When the Koiari
+visit the coast they go in for begging largely, and they generally get
+what they ask, as the Motu people are very much afraid of their spiritual
+power, they being thought to hold power over the sun, wind, and rain,
+and manufacturing or withholding the latter at will.&nbsp; When the
+Motu people hear that Koiarians are coming, they hide their valuables.&nbsp;
+All the young swells here have head-dresses of dogs&rsquo; teeth, got
+from the seaside natives.&nbsp; At Eikiri, they told us they got theirs
+by killing and stealing.&nbsp; We can truly say we are under arms in
+this house&mdash;sixty-two spears overhead, four shields on walls, and
+two stone clubs keeping watch at the door.&nbsp; A Makipili woman has
+been telling Kena how she happens to be here.&nbsp; Formerly her people
+and these were at enmity.&nbsp; Makipili sought peace, but had no pig.&nbsp;
+She was selected to supply want of pig, and taken with food.&nbsp; When
+she grew up, the old man (not her husband) insisted on her living with
+him.</p>
+<p>8<i>th</i>.&mdash;We had six hours&rsquo; good walking, and are now
+encamped under the shade of Vetura.&nbsp; The country from Epakari to
+here is very ridgy, and, after leaving the ridges of Epakari, very barren.&nbsp;
+Coming suddenly on a large party of men, women, and children returning
+<!-- page 144--><a name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 144</span>from
+a dance, they were so frightened when we called out, <i>Naimo</i>! that
+they set off, kits, spears, and drums, and no fine words would bring
+them back.&nbsp; We have seven natives with us; the old chief says he
+must see us safe to Keninumu.&nbsp; We passed a fine village&mdash;Umiakurape&mdash;on
+a ridge west of Karikatana; the chiefs name is Vaniakoeta.&nbsp; It
+would make a splendid station.&nbsp; The high ridge at the back of Epakari,
+along which we came, is 1000 feet high, and from it we saw Fisherman&rsquo;s
+Island, Redscar Bay, Bootless Inlet, and the whole coast east to Round
+Head.</p>
+<p>9<i>th</i>.&mdash;Arrived at Keninumu at half-past ten a.m.&nbsp;
+Found all well.&nbsp; The natives are constantly on the look-out for
+the Tabori attack on Munikahila.&nbsp; We hear the Munikahila natives
+have been stealing from Goldie.</p>
+<p>14<i>th</i>.&mdash;Since our return we have been house-building,
+but are getting on very slowly.&nbsp; I fear we are six weeks too late
+for the Kupele district, and shall have to leave it for another season.&nbsp;
+It would be awkward to get in and not get back until the end of the
+wet season.&nbsp; I find our friend the chief, Poroko, has had two wives;
+one he killed lately.&nbsp; She was in the plantation, and some young
+fellows coming along, she sat down with them to have a smoke and get
+the news; Poroko heard of it, and on her coming home in the evening
+he killed her.&nbsp; A woman at Favelle said, &ldquo;Oh, the Koiari
+man thinks nothing of killing his wife.&rdquo;&nbsp; The word for &ldquo;sneeze&rdquo;
+in Koiari is <i>akiso</i>.&nbsp; <!-- page 145--><a name="page145"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 145</span>When
+they are leaving for a journey or going for the night they call out
+<i>kiso</i>, and often from their houses they shout their good-night
+to us, <i>kiso</i>.&nbsp; There is a woman in deep mourning for her
+daughter.&nbsp; She has hanging round her neck all the ornaments once
+the property of the deceased, and along with them the jawbone.&nbsp;
+The headless body she visits occasionally, and rubs herself all over
+with the juice from it!</p>
+<p>18<i>th</i>.&mdash;We have a great crowd of natives in from Kupele,
+the nearest district to Mount Owen Stanley.&nbsp; They are the same
+race of people as at Meroka&mdash;some very dark, others very light-coloured.&nbsp;
+Their weapons are the same as the Koiari, as also is their dress.&nbsp;
+Two men are in mourning, and are wearing netted vests.&nbsp; The chief
+is rather a fine-looking fellow, and dressed profusely with cassowary
+feathers.&nbsp; They all have a wisp of grass bound tight at one end,
+and hanging from a girdle behind, to be used as a seat when they sit
+down.&nbsp; It is a stretch of imagination to say it looks like a tail.&nbsp;
+They are very anxious we should accompany them on their return, and
+say they will show us plenty of villages and people.&nbsp; Yesterday
+we had great feasting in the villages on yams and taro.&nbsp; To an
+Eastern Polynesian it would be ridiculous to call it a feast, seeing
+there was no pig.&nbsp; In the evening we had a good deal of palavering
+with spears and shields, fighting an imaginary foe, and at times retreating.&nbsp;
+Their movements are swift and graceful: advance, retreat, advance, pursue,
+ward off to the right, to the <!-- page 146--><a name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 146</span>left,
+shield up, down, aside, struck on knee, a shout, all gone through, with
+the greatest alacrity, and I am not at all astonished at so few being
+killed or wounded in a fight.&nbsp; They value shields that bear the
+marks of spears.</p>
+<p>19<i>th</i>.&mdash;Our old friend Oriope came in to-day, and handed
+us the tomahawk, stolen by the deserter on our last trip.&nbsp; He says
+when he heard how Someri had served us he sent at once to Sogeri, and
+got the tomahawk, telling them it was very wrong to steal from such
+dear friends of his.&nbsp; One of the Kupele natives stole a knife,
+but he had to give it up to the Keninumu friends, who returned it to
+us.&nbsp; I should have liked to have started a station at Chokinumu,
+so as to try the climate of both sides of the district this wet season.</p>
+<p>23<i>rd</i>.&mdash;We find it impossible to get the men to help us
+with the house whilst so many of us are here, so we return to the port,
+hoping to get into Chokinumu soon.&nbsp; The people, seeing that we
+are really going, have begged hard for Jakoba to be left, and they promise
+faithfully to assist him in finishing the house.&nbsp; Jakoba being
+anxious to remain with them, I consented.</p>
+<p>24<i>th</i>.&mdash;Arrived at Moumiri about two p.m.&nbsp; We heard
+there that Tabori and Makipili have been murdering.&nbsp; A number of
+people from Marivaenumu were here wallaby-hunting, and on returning
+were met; three women and two men were killed.&nbsp; They report here,
+also, that Kupele proper (a small village) no <!-- page 147--><a name="page147"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 147</span>longer
+exists; the Koiari to the west of us having gone over and killed all
+but five, who have gone to another village.</p>
+<p>26<i>th</i>.&mdash;Returned to Port Moresby to-day, and found all
+well, and good news from all the stations.&nbsp; The services have gone
+on here in Rua&rsquo;s absence with great success.&nbsp; On two Sundays
+the chief Poi conducted the services, addressing those present, and
+telling them he thought that now it was time for them all to receive
+the Gospel which had been so faithfully taught them during these years;
+in prayer he remembered us who were inland, and asked our Father in
+heaven to watch over us and bring us back safely, and to enlighten all
+of them at the seaside.</p>
+<h2><!-- page 148--><a name="page148"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 148</span>CHAPTER
+IV.&nbsp; PEACE-MAKING.</h2>
+<p>Mr. Chalmers asked by the natives to go to Elema&mdash;Native fears&mdash;Difficulties
+at the start&mdash;Namoa&mdash;Delena&mdash;A Motumotu trading canoe&mdash;Interview
+with Semese, chief of Lese&mdash;Christian natives&mdash;Friendly meeting
+with a war canoe&mdash;Arrival at Motumotu&mdash;Friendly reception&mdash;Viewing
+Mr. Chalmers&rsquo;s feet&mdash;Natives in full dress&mdash;Sunday open-air
+service&mdash;Sago as an article of commerce&mdash;Peace agreed upon&mdash;Return
+to Boera.</p>
+<p>When at Kabadi in 1880, the natives begged of me to endeavour to
+prevent the Elema natives paying them another visit, as they were now
+living in the bush near the hills.&nbsp; All along the coast the people
+were much afraid, expecting a raid, and at last news came in from Maiva
+that Motumotu and Lese were making great preparations that they would
+visit Motu, kill Tamate and Ruatoka, then attack right and left.&nbsp;
+Last year, when leaving, they said they would return and pay off accounts,
+kill the foreigners first, then all the natives they could get hold
+of.</p>
+<p>Under these circumstances, I resolve to visit Motumotu, and beard
+the lion in his den.&nbsp; I did not believe they would touch me, but
+I feared they meant mischief to Kabadi and the coast villages.&nbsp;
+No time could <!-- page 149--><a name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 149</span>be
+lost, as we were in a bad month for rain and storms, and the coast line
+is long and bad.&nbsp; The natives said it was too late, yet I resolved
+to try it.</p>
+<p>On the 5th January, 1881, we opened the new church at Port Moresby,
+and baptised the first three New Guinea converts.&nbsp; The church was
+crowded, and all seemed interested.&nbsp; I arranged for Piri and his
+wife to accompany me to the Gulf, they taking the whale-boat.&nbsp;
+We cannot call at Kabadi on our way down, as we must hurry on, but our
+natives here were going to Kabadi, and gladly took the news.</p>
+<p>On January 10, the flag flying on the boat told all that we were
+to start.&nbsp; Our leader ran off to Kaili last night, but Huakonio,
+one of the three baptised on the 5th, was willing to go.&nbsp; Our boat&rsquo;s
+crew were considered fools, rushing into the arms of death.&nbsp; Wives,
+children, and friends were gathered round weeping.&nbsp; The men said,
+&ldquo;Cannot you see that if Tamate lives we shall live, and if he
+is murdered we shall be murdered?&nbsp; It is all right; we are going
+with him, and you will see us back all right with sago and betel-nuts.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+Huakonio told me in the boat that every means imaginable but physical
+force were used to prevent their accompanying me; and he added, &ldquo;We
+know it is all right; the Spirit that has watched over you in the past&rdquo;
+(naming the various journeys) &ldquo;will do so now; and if we return
+safe, won&rsquo;t the people be ashamed?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>We left Port Moresby about nine a.m. with a light <!-- page 150--><a name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 150</span>head
+wind; outside found the current very strong, setting easterly.&nbsp;
+We arrived at Boera at four p.m., and found Piri and his wife ready
+to start at once.&nbsp; Piri has a Boera crew, and we increased ours
+here by two.&nbsp; Here the natives did not seem at all afraid, and
+many wished to accompany us.</p>
+<p>On leaving Boera, it was a beautiful clear and moonlight night, and
+there was a light land breeze.&nbsp; Pulling brought us to Varivara
+Islands, in Redscar Bay, about two a.m., where we anchored until six
+when we tried to make Cape Suckling.&nbsp; As it was blowing hard from
+the north-west, we had to put into Manumanu.&nbsp; The Motu traders
+did all they could to persuade us to give up Motumotu, and to visit
+Kabadi.&nbsp; Both crews would gladly have given up; their friends told
+them to leave us, and return in the trading canoes.&nbsp; They came
+to me to say &ldquo;the bad weather has set in, the winds and rains
+are here, we cannot go on.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I replied, &ldquo;Think, my children, of the disgrace.&nbsp; We started
+to go to Motumotu, and at the first breath of contrary wind we put back.&nbsp;
+It must not be.&nbsp; Let us try it a little longer, and if the wind
+increases we can put back, and not feel ashamed.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;You are right,&rdquo; they rejoined; &ldquo;we will go on
+with you.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>At sunset we all got into our boats, and were ready for a start.&nbsp;
+A fellow who has just returned from Kabadi thought to get over me by
+saying, &ldquo;Tamate, <!-- page 151--><a name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 151</span>Kabadi
+are looking daily for you, and they have a large present ready; feathers
+in abundance and sago; your two boats cannot take half.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I am going to Motumotu, and not all the feathers in Kabadi,
+nor all the sago they can prepare, will turn me now, until I have made
+a fair trial, and then, if driven back, I will visit Kabadi.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I believe our crew had had a talk with that man before he came to
+me.</p>
+<p>It was five o&rsquo;clock on January 12th before we got to Namoa,
+near Cape Suckling.&nbsp; Maiva canoes passed with wallaby from Namoa.&nbsp;
+When ashore, cooking breakfast, Koloko and her husband, with uncles
+and aunts, and men and women from the village, came down.&nbsp; The
+two former were going to Maiva, and the crowd followed to see them embark
+in one of the large Maiva canoes.&nbsp; After the bamboo pipe had been
+passed all round, the embarkation took place, men and women weeping
+as if taking a final farewell.</p>
+<p>When they had gone, we told the people we wished to sleep, and they
+left us undisturbed.&nbsp; In the afternoon we came to Delena, where
+we had right hearty welcome.&nbsp; They are truly glad we are going
+to Motumotu, as they fear an attack, and hope our visit will benefit
+them.&nbsp; They feel sure Motumotu will receive us well, and seeing
+that I specially visit them, they say it will be all right.&nbsp; The
+crews feel encouraged, and are at present ashore feasting on dugong,
+sago, and betel-nuts.&nbsp; Some have been off for tobacco, and are
+<!-- page 152--><a name="page152"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 152</span>now
+laughing at the folly of their friends.&nbsp; The sorcerer is not in
+Delena; but even he would do nothing to prevent our going on.&nbsp;
+We are all ready to start with a land breeze.&nbsp; The crews have sent
+us word, &ldquo;When you wish to start, call out; you will see us gladly
+spring into the water.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>On leaving Delena with a light breeze and pulling, we reached the
+Kaveri beach near Cape Possession, about eight a.m.&nbsp; When near
+Maiva, we met a Motumotu canoe.&nbsp; At first they were afraid to come
+alongside of us, but after a little talk we got near them, exchanged
+presents, and were soon friends.&nbsp; They seem glad we are going to
+their home; they say peace will be arranged.&nbsp; The Motumotu have
+said that if we only were to visit them, they would gladly make peace.</p>
+<p>It seems that they are very badly off for <i>uros</i> (earthenware
+pots), and the native tribes along the coast to the west of them are
+crying out and blaming them for the scarcity.&nbsp; They are certainly
+blaming the right party; but for Motumotu, the Pari, Vapukori, Port
+Moresby, Boliapata, and Boera trading canoes would all have been down
+the coast last season.&nbsp; The principal man in the canoe, knowing
+that all, except our boatman, Bob Samoa, had friends at Motumotu, made
+friends with him, rubbing noses and handing his lime gourd, which is
+to be shown on arrival, and his father and friends will receive Bob
+as his friends.&nbsp; They go on to Lolo in quest of <i>uros</i>.</p>
+<p><!-- page 153--><a name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 153</span>We
+landed to cook food.&nbsp; On awaking from a sleep, I was astonished
+to find a crowd of natives close by, and my friend the Kaveri chief,
+Arana, sitting near me.&nbsp; Two boys, who were on the beach fishing,
+seeing us land, ran inland and reported, and he, with two of his wives
+carrying food, followed by men and women from the villages, came down.&nbsp;
+His two wives are now busy cooking, and he is trying to persuade me
+to call on our return and get his present of sago and food.&nbsp; I
+could not promise, and he seemed disappointed.</p>
+<p>We left the Kaveri beach and pulled round Cape Possession, passing
+close in by Oiapu.&nbsp; A heavy sea was rolling in, and a canoe putting
+off to us was swamped.&nbsp; People running along the beach called on
+Piri and me by name to land and feast, but our crews were too frightened,
+and we went on.&nbsp; When off Jokea, men, women, and children all came
+on to the beach, and also by name begged of us to land.&nbsp; We would
+have done so here, but the sea was too high, breaking with great force
+on the fringing reef.&nbsp; Several canoes put off, but only one succeeded
+in reaching us.&nbsp; They begged of us to call on our return, and let
+them know the result of our visit, and said we had better also visit
+Lese.&nbsp; They think our visit will put all straight.&nbsp; Motumotu,
+they say, is very undecided as to what to do, but having heard that
+I was to visit them, put off the decision for some time, saying, &ldquo;If
+he comes, it will be all right, and we shall have peace, but&mdash;&rdquo;&nbsp;
+Well, they did not know.&nbsp; They rub noses all round, <!-- page 154--><a name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 154</span>and
+make for the shore, we for the harbour at the mouth of Coombes River,
+but a very heavy sea running in, we prefer anchoring outside at midnight.</p>
+<p>By five a.m. up anchor, and away to Lese.&nbsp; Two Naima canoes
+returning from Lolo, where they had been trying to get <i>uros</i>,
+passed close to us.&nbsp; They also are glad of the likelihood of peace
+and <i>uros</i>.&nbsp; At seven, we got to Lese, and were met by an
+excited crowd, the majority armed.&nbsp; We anchored a little out, and
+would allow no canoes alongside.&nbsp; I called out for Eeka, and a
+very old man walked into the sea, when I went ashore and took him by
+the hand.&nbsp; Piri and his wife followed, with part of the crew and
+the Boera and Port Moresby chiefs.&nbsp; We were led to the village,
+the crowd increasing as we went along.&nbsp; Piri noticing an enclosed
+place, went in to see what it was, and called me to have a look.&nbsp;
+I went in, but no women or youths followed.&nbsp; Inside were two large
+houses, with rows of masks and hats, the latter like small canoes, about
+ten feet long, made with very light wood and native cloth.&nbsp; On
+coming out I was seized by the hand by an elderly man, who, in a towering
+passion, drew me on.&nbsp; All I could make out was that somebody was
+a thief and a liar.&nbsp; The Boera chief ran up, and I asked him what
+was wrong.&nbsp; &ldquo;Oh, this is your friend, Semese, the chief you
+gave the present to when you were last here, and he is angry with Eeka
+for taking you away.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Tell Piri to come up quickly.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><!-- page 155--><a name="page155"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 155</span>&ldquo;Piri,
+go with Eeka as your friend; give him a present as such; it is all right.&nbsp;
+I go with Semese.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Soon squatting on the platform, wrath fled, and I had to wait to
+be fed.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;But, Semese, I want to press on to Motumotu and see them.&nbsp;
+I am afraid of the weather coming on bad.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Motumotu to-morrow, Lese to-day; you must have a pig.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Leave the pig for another visit.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>All was of no avail.&nbsp; A fine pig was speared, brought and laid
+at my feet.&nbsp; Semese and the people were in the very best humour.&nbsp;
+Eeka was delighted with Piri, and the latter had a pig presented to
+him.&nbsp; We gave our presents, and, feeling tired, I suggested to
+our friends that we had better take the pigs to the other side of the
+entrance, to Macey Lagoon.&nbsp; Semese is quite agreeable, now the
+peace is made, and it was arranged that he and his party should visit
+me with sago at Port Moresby.&nbsp; Both pigs, ready for cooking, were
+carried into the boat, and the excited crowd, this time all unarmed,
+were on the shore to see us off.&nbsp; They promised not to molest Kabadi
+again, and that they considered our visit as peace with all the coast
+villages.</p>
+<p>Macey Lagoon would make a splendid harbour for small vessels, very
+large vessels not being able to cross the bar.&nbsp; On the eastern
+side, a bank runs out for nearly a mile, on which the sea breaks; close
+in <!-- page 156--><a name="page156"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 156</span>by
+western shore is a good passage.&nbsp; The great work of the day was
+feasting and sleeping.&nbsp; There were two Lese men with us, and they
+said that the Motumotu have been talking of war, not of peace; but now
+it may be different.&nbsp; To get into Motumotu in the morning, we had
+come to within two miles of the village, and we anchored off.&nbsp;
+Notwithstanding some anxiety, soon all were asleep.&nbsp; The natives
+were astonished at the beautiful weather, and said they felt as if all
+would be right&mdash;the great and good Spirit who had led us so far
+and safely would not leave us now or on the morrow.&nbsp; At every meal
+on board or ashore they asked a blessing, and our old friend Hula prayed
+with real earnest feelings.&nbsp; He was certainly in earnest to-night
+when he prayed for the Motumotuans, and that our visit might be blessed
+to them.&nbsp; I was charmed with his simplicity, fervour, and expectancy.</p>
+<p>This old man, a few weeks before, at the close of a meeting at Port
+Moresby, said, addressing <i>us</i>&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Listen, you think we Motumotuans are not attending to your
+words; but you are mistaken.&nbsp; Before you came here, we were always
+fighting and were a terror to all, east and west, but now it is different.&nbsp;
+We are at peace all round; we go about unarmed, and sleep well at night.&nbsp;
+Soon our fathers&rsquo; ancient customs will be given up, and you will
+see us, old and young, coming to be taught the word of the great and
+good Spirit.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><!-- page 157--><a name="page157"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 157</span>I
+was aroused about two a.m. by shouting, and, looking over the gunwale,
+saw a large double fighting canoe alongside of Piri&rsquo;s boat, in
+which all were sound asleep.&nbsp; On awaking, they were startled by
+the appearance.&nbsp; They were asked by those on the bridge&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Who are you?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Tamate and Piri going to Motumotu.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Soon all were friends, chewing betel-nut and smoking tobacco.&nbsp;
+On each canoe with paddles were over thirty men, and on the bridge adjoining
+the canoes were armed men and a large supply of sago and betel-nuts.&nbsp;
+They were going to Lese to purchase <i>uros</i>.&nbsp; They came alongside
+of our boat, received and gave presents, and then an order was given
+by one from the bridge, and away they went at full speed.&nbsp; It was
+a pretty sight in the moonlight to see the canoe move swiftly on, when
+nearly eight paddles as one touched the water.&nbsp; We rolled ourselves
+up again for another hour or two&rsquo;s sleep.</p>
+<p>At sis a.m. we weighed anchor, and were off to Motumotu.&nbsp; There
+was a great crowd on the beach; but it was all right, as boys and girls
+were to be seen there, as noisy as the grown-up folks.&nbsp; A chief
+rushed into the water, and called on us to come.&nbsp; &ldquo;Come,
+with peace from afar; come, friends, and you will meet us as friends.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+We went round and entered the river in deep water, close to eastern
+bank near to the village.&nbsp; Until we had a talk, I would <!-- page 158--><a name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 158</span>allow
+none but Piri&rsquo;s friend and my friends, Semese and Rahe, near the
+boats.&nbsp; They had been told that we were going to fight if they
+visited us, and that all women and children were to be sent back to
+the Keiara, and the Keiari fighting men were to be in league with all
+the foreigners about.&nbsp; Then they heard that I had been murdered,
+and were terribly sorry; but now they saw I was alive, and had come
+a long way in a &ldquo;moon&rdquo; in which neither they nor their forefathers
+had ever travelled.&nbsp; So now they must make peace.</p>
+<p>I said, &ldquo;You must not again go near Kabadi, and all along the
+coast we must have peace.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;It is right, we shall not again visit Kabadi.&nbsp; Lealea
+feasted us with pigs, and pressed us to attack Kabadi, to pay off an
+old attack on them.&nbsp; It suited us, because Kabadi thought themselves
+strong; but now it is peace.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I landed with them, and went up through the villages, then returning
+to the boats we were told to remain there.&nbsp; Shortly three pigs
+were brought, and our return presents of <i>uros</i>, etc., were carried
+off.&nbsp; Bob&rsquo;s calabash has brought him a host of friends.&nbsp;
+Piri is with his friends at one end of the village, and in the opposite
+I am to reside in my friend Rahe&rsquo;s <i>dubu</i>.&nbsp; Semese is
+his father, and a very old man.&nbsp; The number of old men and old
+women and children is astonishing.&nbsp; No enemy dare come near their
+villages, and their <!-- page 159--><a name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 159</span>houses
+have never been burnt down.&nbsp; The Boera chief&mdash;a capital fellow
+to have&mdash;speaks this dialect very fluently.&nbsp; Our people at
+first were very much afraid, but soon settled down, and are now roving
+about.</p>
+<p>Suddenly the war-horn was heard blowing&mdash;not the pig-horn, so
+often heard on the coast.&nbsp; I wondered what was up, but it turned
+out to be only the youth training.&nbsp; Two new double canoes came
+down the river with large complements of paddles, all young lads, gaily
+dressed.&nbsp; A number of young men, painted and extravagantly dressed,
+have been here; they lately killed some Moveavans, and are hence greatly
+admired by old and young.</p>
+<p>I had to take off my boots and socks, and allow my feet to be admired,
+also to show off my chest.&nbsp; All shout with delight, and every new
+arrival must have a look.&nbsp; The sun was frightfully hot.&nbsp; Some
+men were fishing on the breakers; they had a long post, with a cross-bar,
+on which they stand, fixed in the sand, head covered with native cloth,
+and bow and arrow ready.</p>
+<p>A number of people came in from Vailala.&nbsp; They wish I would
+go down with them, but it is too late to go so far in an open boat.&nbsp;
+I have had another meeting with the leading men, and I think all is
+now peace.&nbsp; My friend Rahe seems a great personage, with relatives
+innumerable.&nbsp; He wants to know if I would like to be alone in the
+<i>dubu</i>; only say it, and all the <!-- page 160--><a name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 160</span>men
+will leave.&nbsp; I prefer them remaining, and I will make myself comfortable
+on the front platform.</p>
+<p>In the evening, men and women&mdash;I suppose <i>they</i> would say
+&ldquo;elegantly dressed&rdquo;&mdash;bodies besmeared with red pigment,
+croton and <i>drac&aelig;na</i> leaves, and feathers of various birds
+fixed on head, arms, and legs, paraded the villages.&nbsp; At present
+all move about armed, and in this establishment bows, bent and unbent,
+and bundles of arrows are on all sides.</p>
+<p>Rahe has just been to me to ask for boat medicine.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;What do you mean, Rahe?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I want you to give me some of that medicine you use to make
+your boat sail.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I use no medicine, only Motu strong arms.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;You could never have come along now without medicine.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;We use no medicine, and have come along well.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I had a splendid night&rsquo;s rest.&nbsp; My mosquito-net and blanket
+caused great amusement.&nbsp; My attendants are innumerable and attentive,
+and will allow no noise near.&nbsp; Our service in the morning was very
+noisy&mdash;everybody anxious for quiet must needs tell his neighbour
+to be quiet.&nbsp; Our old Port Moresby chief prayed in the Motumotu
+dialect.&nbsp; The Boera chief translated for Piri and me.&nbsp; They
+are very anxious to know of the resurrection and where Beritane spirits
+go after death.</p>
+<p>In the afternoon we held service in the main street.&nbsp; The singing
+attracted a very large and noisy crowd <!-- page 161--><a name="page161"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 161</span>but
+when our old friend began to pray it was as if a bomb-shell had exploded,
+men, women, and children running as for dear life to their homes.&nbsp;
+Another hymn brought them back, armed and unarmed.&nbsp; We had a long
+talk on peace, and they wished I would go with them to Moveave, and
+make peace.&nbsp; One division of these villages they have simply wiped
+out.&nbsp; I asked them to leave Moveave alone, and when a fit season
+comes I will ascend the river with them, and make peace.</p>
+<p>I have visited the party who last week killed several of the Moveavans,
+and they promised not to attack them again.&nbsp; The Kaback jewellery
+is about in abundance.</p>
+<p>Semese spoke nearly all the night through, exhorting all to peace,
+and that now we had visited them they ought no more to go about exalting
+themselves, fighting with their neighbours, and speaking evil of their
+friends, the Motuans.&nbsp; Rahe has brought his son, whom he has named
+Tamate.&nbsp; I have no doubt he will be an expensive honour.</p>
+<p>We went up the William River to-day.&nbsp; At mouth, on the west
+side, are two islands, viz., Iriho and Biaveveka.&nbsp; Between the
+latter and the mainland is an entrance into Alice Meade Harbour.&nbsp;
+The river is broad and deep.&nbsp; Both banks are lined with sago palms.</p>
+<p>When a young man marries a young woman, the custom here is to pay
+nothing for her; but for a <!-- page 162--><a name="page162"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 162</span>widow
+something very great.&nbsp; The people live chiefly on sago.&nbsp; Sago
+is cooked with shell-fish, boiled with bananas, roasted on stones, baked
+in the ashes, tied up in leaves, and many other ways.&nbsp; We have
+received large presents of sago, both boats bearing as much as is safe
+to carry.&nbsp; We leave in the morning.&nbsp; At present a man is going
+through the streets in great wrath, having been to his plantation and
+missed a bunch of bananas.&nbsp; As he moves along he shouts out his
+loss, and challenges the thief.</p>
+<p>We had a gathering of old men until late into the night, and they
+closed with a wail, chanted, with drums keeping time.&nbsp; Hours before
+daylight Semese was up, waiting for me to turn out.</p>
+<p>We had a fine run back to Yule, where, at sunset, we were met by
+a terrific gale of wind and a thunderstorm.&nbsp; We had to put in close
+to the land, and for four hours sit it out in a deluge of rain.&nbsp;
+It was soon inky dark, the lightning very vivid, and the thunder deafening.&nbsp;
+Piri&rsquo;s boat anchored close alongside.&nbsp; On the weather clearing
+up a little, we crossed Hall Sound to Delena, where we were soon met
+by natives carrying torches, and were led to their houses.&nbsp; A change
+of clothing, and we were all as comfortable as possible.</p>
+<p>We spent the hour of midnight with Kone and Levas, chiefs of Delena,
+telling them of our visit to the west, and its success in establishing
+peace.&nbsp; They were greatly delighted, and will do me the honour
+of <!-- page 163--><a name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 163</span>visiting
+me at Port Moresby, that is, will relieve me of some tomahawks.&nbsp;
+With a light wind and a smooth sea, we had a pleasant run to Boera,
+where we arrived at sunset.&nbsp; There was great joy in the village
+at our arrival.</p>
+<p>We reached Port Moresby on the 20th, and on March 6th we baptized
+Kohu and Rahela, the first two women of New Guinea converted to Christianity.&nbsp;
+May they be kept as true ministering women for Christ!</p>
+<h2><!-- page 164--><a name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 164</span>CHAPTER
+V.&nbsp; THE KALO MASSACRE.</h2>
+<p>Twelve teachers and their friends killed at Kalo in 1881&mdash;The
+warning&mdash;The massacre&mdash;The fear for the teachers at Koma&mdash;Mr.
+Chalmers&rsquo;s views on the question&mdash;Voyage westwards in the
+<i>Mayri</i>&mdash;A Sunday at Delena&mdash;Visit of Queen Koloka&mdash;Threatened
+attack by Lolo natives&mdash;The fight&mdash;Peace&mdash;Miria&rsquo;s
+village&mdash;Bad character of the Motu natives&mdash;Visit to the chief
+of Motu Lavao&mdash;Story of Dr. Thorngren&rsquo;s murder&mdash;Peace
+made with the village.</p>
+<p>On the 7th of March, 1881, the natives of Kalo, a village at the
+head of Hood Bay, near the mouth of the Kemp Welch River, massacred
+their teacher, Anederea, with his wife and two children; also Materua,
+teacher of Kerepunu, his wife and two children; Taria, teacher of Hula;
+Matatuhi, an inland teacher; and two Hula boys&mdash;in all, twelve
+persons.</p>
+<p>The earliest news of the tragedy was given in the following letter
+from the Rev. T. Beswick, dated Thursday Island, Torres Straits, March
+24th:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>On Friday, the 4th inst., Taria, our Hula teacher, left
+Port Moresby with Matatuhi, an inland teacher, the latter wishing to
+visit the Kalo teacher for some native medicine.&nbsp; Reaching Hula
+on the evening of the 4th, Taria heard a rumour that the Kalo people
+intended to kill their teacher and his family.&nbsp; Accordingly he
+went thither the following day, along with <!-- page 165--><a name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 165</span>Matatuhi,
+and requested the Kalo teacher and his family to leave at once.&nbsp;
+The teacher refused to place credence in the rumour, and even questioned
+his chief and pretended friend, who assured him that there was not the
+slightest grain of truth in the rumour.</p>
+<p>The Hula teacher returned, leaving Matatuhi behind.&nbsp; On Monday,
+the 7th, Taria, along with five Hula boys, proceeded in a boat to Kalo
+and Kerepunu, with the view of bringing the teachers and their families
+to Hula, on account of the ill-health of some of the party.&nbsp; He
+called at Kalo on the way thither, and apprised the teacher of his intention
+to call on the return journey.&nbsp; At Kerepunu he took on board the
+teacher, his wife and two children, and one native youth.&nbsp; The
+party then proceeded to Kalo.&nbsp; During the interval of waiting there,
+the chief and pretended friend of the Kalo teacher got into the boat
+for a chat.&nbsp; On the arrival of Matatuhi and the Kalo teacher, along
+with his wife and two children, the chief stepped out of the boat.&nbsp;
+This was the pre-arranged signal for attack to the crowds assembled
+on the bank.&nbsp; At the outset, the chief warned his followers not
+to injure the Hula and Kerepunu boys; but such precaution did not prevent
+two of the former being killed.&nbsp; The other four boys escaped by
+swimming the river.&nbsp; The mission party were so cooped up in the
+boat, and spears flew so thickly and fast, as to render resistance futile
+and escape impossible.&nbsp; Taria resisted for a <!-- page 166--><a name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 166</span>time,
+but a fourth spear put an end to his resistance.&nbsp; The others were
+dispatched with little trouble.&nbsp; A single spear slew both mother
+and babe in the case of both women.&nbsp; The only bodies recovered
+were those of the Kerepunu teacher&rsquo;s wife and her babe; the natives
+of Hula and Kerepunu severally interred the two bodies.&nbsp; The rest
+of the bodies became a prey to the alligators.&nbsp; For the two Hula
+boys who were slain speedy compensation was made by the Kalo people.&nbsp;
+The whale-boat, too, was recovered by the Hula natives.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/167b.jpg">
+<img alt="A Hula girl" src="images/167s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The above sad intelligence reached Port Moresby at early morn of
+the 11th, just as the <i>Harriet</i> was about to leave for Thursday
+Island, and the <i>Mayri</i> about to take me to Hula, whilst a party
+of foreigners were leaving for the East End.&nbsp; The news, of course,
+upset all arrangements, and, after the first moments of excitement were
+over, our next concern was about the safety of the two Aroma teachers.&nbsp;
+With as little delay as possible, but with groundless forebodings of
+coming evil, a large party of us left for Aroma.&nbsp; About ten a.m.
+of the 14th, we reached there, and whilst our three boats lay off a
+little, so as not to arouse suspicion, a teacher and myself went ashore.&nbsp;
+With devout gratitude I heard that both teachers and natives were ignorant
+of the massacre.&nbsp; In less than an hour the two teachers and their
+families were safely ensconced in their whale-boat, taking along with
+them but a minimum of their property, according to the orders given.&nbsp;
+By these means the chiefs and natives <!-- page 169--><a name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 169</span>of
+Aroma were left in utter ignorance as to the cause of our erratic movements,
+nor did they seem to suspect anything.</p>
+<p>At Kerepunu we experienced considerable noise and worry.&nbsp; Here,
+too, we judged it prudent to remove very little belonging to the deceased
+teacher.&nbsp; At Hula, my house had been entered, but the few things
+stolen were mostly returned.&nbsp; Here, too, we have left goods, until
+some definite course be decided upon.&nbsp; Strange to say, at Hula,
+where we expected the least trouble and danger, there we had the greatest;
+indeed, on one or two occasions, affairs assumed a rather serious aspect.&nbsp;
+The main idea present in the native mind was to take advantage of us
+in our weakness and sorrow.&nbsp; After a very brief stay at Hula, we
+left there on the 15th, reaching Port Moresby the following day; and
+on the 17th I left for Thursday Island.</p>
+<p>The natives of Hood Bay attribute this massacre to the influence
+of Koapina, the Aroma chief, he having assured the Kalo people that
+foreigners might be massacred with impunity, citing as an illustration
+the massacre at Aroma last July, and pointing out at the same time the
+great fame that had thereby accrued to his own people.&nbsp; The Kalo
+people have not been slow in acting upon his advice.&nbsp; I visited
+Hula and Kerepunu within six weeks of the massacre, and was so impressed
+with the peaceful bearing of the people in both places that I should
+have been glad to have re-occupied both stations immediately.</p>
+<p><!-- page 170--><a name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 170</span>I
+should have visited Kalo, but was afraid of compromising the mission,
+as it is possible the natives may be punished for the outrage.&nbsp;
+I fear we are not altogether free from blame; the teachers are often
+very indiscreet in their dealings with the natives, and not over-careful
+in what they say; there has also, perhaps, sometimes been a niggard
+regard to expense on our part.&nbsp; A very few pounds spent at a station
+like Kalo in the first years would, I believe, prevent much trouble,
+and probably murder.&nbsp; The Kalo natives felt that Hula and Kerepunu
+got the most tobacco and tomahawks, and that their share was small indeed.&nbsp;
+Instead of our buying all the thatch required for the other stations&mdash;only
+obtainable at Kalo&mdash;we got the teachers, with their boys, to get
+it.&nbsp; We meant it well, to save expense.&nbsp; My experience teaches
+me to throw all I can in the way of natives not connected with our head
+station.&nbsp; At this station&mdash;Port Moresby&mdash;for the next
+few years the expenses will be considerable in buildings, laying out
+the land, and in presents to the constant stream of visitors; but it
+will have a Christianizing and a civilizing effect upon a large extent
+of country.</p>
+<p>On the 24th of May, 1881, left Port Moresby in the <i>Mayri</i>,
+and, having taken on board four natives at Boera, continued a westerly
+course, anchoring next day in Hall Sound, opposite Delena.&nbsp; Early
+on the morning of May 26th, Kone and Lavao, our old friends, came off.&nbsp;
+They say it is useless going to <!-- page 171--><a name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 171</span>Maiva,
+as we cannot land; but we can go and see for ourselves, and they will
+accompany us.&nbsp; I had to land to eat pigs, <i>i.e</i>., receive
+pigs and hand them over to my followers.&nbsp; On landing, they led
+me up the hill at the back of village, where I was astonished to find
+a fine tract of land forming a splendid position for a house.&nbsp;
+Kone at once offered me as much land as I wanted.&nbsp; After thinking
+it over on board, I decided on building.&nbsp; I landed tents, and pitched
+them on the rise above the village.&nbsp; My experience is that places
+quite exposed to south-east wind are <i>more</i> unhealthy than swampy
+country.&nbsp; On Rarotonga there were more deaths on the windward side
+of the island than on the leeward.</p>
+<p>On the Sunday after landing, we went down and had service in the
+village.&nbsp; Kone interpreted into Lolo.&nbsp; When telling the people
+we had no work for them on Sunday, Kone said: &ldquo;Oh! we know, and
+we, too, are going to be <i>helaka</i> (sacred) to-morrow.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+I asked him, &ldquo;Come, Kone, how do you know?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;From
+Boera.&rdquo;&nbsp; I met a lad repeating the Lord&rsquo;s Prayer in
+Motu, and found he had been taught by Piri.&nbsp; The Motu tribe has
+already had great influence, and will have more and more every year.&nbsp;
+I have an interesting class of children, and hope, before we leave,
+they will know their letters well.</p>
+<p>What nonsense one could write of the reception here&mdash;such as
+&ldquo;Everybody at service this morning listened attentively; commented
+on address or conversation; <!-- page 172--><a name="page172"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 172</span>children
+all come to school, so intelligent, and seemingly anxious to learn;
+and, altogether, prospects are bright.&rdquo;&nbsp; At home they would
+say, why, they are being converted; see the speedy triumph!&nbsp; Alas!
+they are but savages, pure and simple, rejoicing in the prospect of
+an unlimited supply of tobacco, beads, and tomahawks.</p>
+<p>Paura, a chief from Motu Lavao, is in.&nbsp; The people, it seems,
+told him, being <i>helaka</i> day, I could not meet him, and he did
+not come up hill.&nbsp; He is rather a nice-looking fellow, with a mild,
+open countenance.&nbsp; Kone told him to tell the Paitana natives, who
+murdered James and Thorngren, that, if they wished peace and friendship,
+they must come in here and sue for it; that I could not first go to
+them, as they were the offenders and murderers.</p>
+<p>Arrangements were at once made for erecting a wooden house at Delena,
+measuring thirty-six feet by eighteen feet, material for which was easily
+procurable.&nbsp; On the 30th of May, Queen Koloka, her husband, and
+a number of men and women came in.&nbsp; The Prince Consort first came
+up, all over smiles, followed in half an hour by his wife and maids.&nbsp;
+After formally receiving her, I presented Mrs. Lawes&rsquo;s present.&nbsp;
+I unloosed the parcel, and turned maid-of-honour in real waiting.&nbsp;
+Her Majesty was chewing betel-nut, but that did not prevent my putting
+the dress on; first attempt all wrong, the front became the back, and
+the back the front.&nbsp; At length I <!-- page 173--><a name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 173</span>succeeded,
+and, after fastening the dress, tied a pretty kerchief round the royal
+neck.&nbsp; There was great excitement, in every mouth a thumb, a few
+moments of silence, and then every soul spoke and shouted.&nbsp; It
+was amusing to see her husband, uncles, maids, old men and women, young
+men and maidens, gather round the royal presence, wonder and admire,
+and then shout, <i>Oh misi haine O</i>! (Mrs. Lawes).&nbsp; Ah, Koloka,
+I wonder how you are going to get out of that dress to-night; will you
+understand buttons, hooks, and eyes?</p>
+<p>During my stay at Delena, one of those warlike incursions by hostile
+tribes so common in New Guinea took place.&nbsp; My presence and influence
+happily brought about an early and satisfactory settlement of the dispute.&nbsp;
+I extract the following from my journal:&mdash;</p>
+<p><i>June</i> 2<i>nd</i>.&mdash;Our friends seem troubled, and their
+house-building earnestness is somewhat abated.&nbsp; I find they have
+heard that the Lolo tribe intend making a raid on them.&nbsp; Is it
+on them, or on us?&nbsp; Their great hope is that we shall use our guns,
+and so frighten the invaders.&nbsp; I tell them that we cannot do this;
+that we are men of peace, and have no wish to frighten any one.&nbsp;
+It seems Maiva is very disturbed; they are fighting all round, avenging
+Oa&rsquo;s death, and may soon be expected here.&nbsp; Maiva would not
+interfere with us, but Lolo I would not trust.</p>
+<p>We shall have to keep a good look-out to-night.&nbsp; <!-- page 174--><a name="page174"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 174</span>Our
+friends seem very troubled and excited.&nbsp; I have given warning that
+any one coming near our camp must call out my name and his or her own.&nbsp;
+No one can come near without our knowing, as my terrier Flora is a splendid
+watch-dog.&nbsp; This evening, some women passed camp, carrying their
+valuables to hide away in the bush.&nbsp; Bob asks, &ldquo;Suppose Lolo
+natives come to us, what we do?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Of course they will
+not come near to us unless they mean to attack, and then we must defend
+ourselves.&rdquo;&nbsp; The guns are ready.&nbsp; It is not pleasant;
+but I fancy they will not molest us, so hope to sleep well, knowing
+we are well cared for by Him who is never far off.&nbsp; Through much
+trouble we get to be known, and the purpose for which we come is understood.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/175b.jpg">
+<img alt="A Hula dandy" src="images/175s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>3<i>rd</i>.&mdash;Last night I slept lightly, with Flora on watch,
+and Bob easily aroused.&nbsp; After midnight he kept watch.&nbsp; We
+placed the lights beyond tents on each side, and so arranged that the
+light would strike on any native nearing camp.&nbsp; About two a.m.&nbsp;
+Lavao&rsquo;s wife No. 2 came up with her grandchild, goods, and chattels
+for safety.&nbsp; The Loloans were coming.&nbsp; All right; all ready.&nbsp;
+Very loud, noisy talking in village.&nbsp; At four, we called out for
+Kone, who came up telling us that we should be first disposed of, then
+Delena.&nbsp; I went to the village, and saw the old friendly chief
+from Lavao.&nbsp; I told him any Loloan coming over the brow of the
+hill with weapons we should consider as coming to fight, and <!-- page 177--><a name="page177"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 177</span>we
+were ready.&nbsp; At five, women and children crowded into camp, with
+all their belongings, and asked for protection.&nbsp; Certainly; we
+shall do what we can for them.&nbsp; Men are running all about, planting
+arms in convenient places in the bush.&nbsp; We are told to keep a good
+look-out&mdash;and that we shall.&nbsp; It is now daylight, so we do
+not care much.&nbsp; The fight has begun in the village.&nbsp; Some
+Loloans, running after Delena natives, rush uphill; we warn them back,
+and they retire.&nbsp; There is a loud shout for us to go to the village
+and fight.&nbsp; I leave Bob with guns and cartridges to keep watch
+over camp.&nbsp; I have more confidence in the skirmish unarmed, and
+have no wish for the savages to think I have come to fight.&nbsp; I
+shout out <i>Maino</i>, and soon there is a hush in the terrible storm.&nbsp;
+I am allowed to walk through the village, disarm one or two, and, on
+my return to our friend Kone&rsquo;s end of the village, he whispers
+to me, &ldquo;There is Arua,&rdquo; understanding him to mean the chief,
+or <i>vata tauna</i> (sorcerer).&nbsp; I recognize in him the man introduced
+to me on a former visit, and who in wrath cleared out from my presence.&nbsp;
+Now might be his time to pay me out.&nbsp; I take his weapons from him,
+link him on to me, and walk him up the hill.&nbsp; I speak kindly to
+him, show him flag, and tell him we are <i>maino</i>, and warn him that
+his people must on no account ascend the hill.&nbsp; All right, he will
+stop the fighting.&nbsp; I sit down to write this, when again they rush
+up for me, saying Kone <!-- page 178--><a name="page178"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 178</span>was
+to be killed.&nbsp; Leaving Bob with arms in charge, I go down to the
+village, and without my hat.&nbsp; More canoes have arrived.&nbsp; What
+a crowd of painted fiends!&nbsp; I get surrounded, and have no way of
+escape.&nbsp; Sticks and spears rattle round.&nbsp; I get a knock on
+the head, and a piece of stick falls on my hand.&nbsp; My old Lavao
+friend gets hold of me and walks me to outskirt.&nbsp; Arua and Lauma
+of Lolo assure me they will not ascend the hill, and we had better not
+interfere with them.&nbsp; &ldquo;Right, friend; but you must stop,
+and on no account injure my friend Kone.&rdquo;&nbsp; It would frighten
+them were we to go armed to the village; but then we dare not stay here
+twenty-four hours after.&nbsp; I can do more for the natives unarmed.&nbsp;
+I am glad I am able to mix with both parties; it shows they mean us
+no harm, and speaks well for the future.&nbsp; No one was killed, but
+several were severely wounded, and a few houses destroyed.&nbsp; They
+have made peace at last, and I have had a meeting in the village with
+all; the Loloans have promised to be quiet.&nbsp; I told them we could
+not stay if they were to be constantly threatening.&nbsp; In the afternoon
+the chiefs came up, and I promised to visit them all.&nbsp; My head
+aches a little.&nbsp; Had I been killed, I alone should have been to
+blame, and not the natives.&nbsp; The Delena natives say: &ldquo;Well,
+Tamate, had you not been here, many of us would have been killed, and
+the remainder gone to Naara, never to return.&rdquo;&nbsp; There is
+some pleasure in being of a little use even to savages.</p>
+<p><!-- page 179--><a name="page179"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 179</span>The
+next Sunday we had a splendid service.&nbsp; All the young fellows dressed
+for it by painting their faces.&nbsp; It was amusing and interesting
+to hear them interpret all I said from Motuan into Loloan; and when
+I attempted to use a Lolo word, they corrected me if I wrongly pronounced
+or misplaced it.&nbsp; After service we had all the children and young
+men to school.&nbsp; A goodly number have got a pretty fair hold of
+letters.&nbsp; Some would beat native cloth, and Kone grew very angry,
+and, because they would not listen to him, threatened to pull up his
+recently buried child.&nbsp; I sent word that he must on no account
+do that, and must say no more to the men beating cloth; that by-and-by
+the people will become enlightened, and then they will understand the
+Sabbath.&nbsp; Poor Kone&rsquo;s idea is that now and at once they should
+understand.</p>
+<p>On June 6th, I once more left Delena to proceed to Maiva, and, although
+a heavy sea was running at the time, landed safely about eleven a.m.
+at Miria&rsquo;s village, on the Maiva coast.&nbsp; I saw a number of
+people with <i>karevas</i> (long fighting sticks), and wondered what
+was the matter.&nbsp; I said to my old friend Rua, who met me on the
+beach, &ldquo;Are you going to fight?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;No, no; it
+is all right now.&rdquo;&nbsp; I gave him a large axe for Meauri and
+party to cut wood for a house at their village.&nbsp; Meauri and a number
+of followers soon made their appearance: it seemed strange that they
+should have come down so soon.&nbsp; Miria, the <!-- page 180--><a name="page180"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 180</span>chief,
+being away cutting wood, went to Meauri&rsquo;s village, passing through
+several seaside villages.&nbsp; We selected a new position for the house,
+at the back of a large temple; gave them tobacco and red cloth, they
+promising gladly to have wood cut against my next return.&nbsp; Sitting
+on the platform, Rua turned to me and asked, &ldquo;Tamate, who is your
+real Maiva friend?&rdquo;&nbsp; Fancying there was trouble, I replied,
+&ldquo;Oa Maoni, who sleeps in that house in death, was my friend: Meauri,
+Rua, Paru, and Aua are now my friends.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;I thought
+so, and Miria has no business to build a house for you.&nbsp; Before
+we saw the boat we were down on the beach at Miria&rsquo;s village to
+begin a quarrel; we saw you were coming, and we waited for you.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+&ldquo;But I want a house on the coast as well as inland; Miria&rsquo;s
+village is small and too exposed, and I must look for another place.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+&ldquo;That is all right; but this first.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Be it
+so.&rdquo;&nbsp; After visiting three villages I had not seen before,
+and going through all the inland ones, I returned to Miria&rsquo;s village;
+he not having returned, I went along to Ereere.&nbsp; After dark, Miria
+came in.&nbsp; He felt sorry when I told him I could not put a house
+up in his place, owing to its being exposed to south-east wind, and
+to there not being many people.&nbsp; &ldquo;But I have cut the wood.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+&ldquo;I shall pay you for that, and the wood can remain for my return.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+I gave him tobacco for the young men and a present to himself, and all
+was right.</p>
+<p>A few mornings later, I found the natives sitting <!-- page 181--><a name="page181"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 181</span>round
+rice; one said, &ldquo;Come, we are waiting for you to bless the food.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+They have seen our boats&rsquo; crews of Botu and Boera natives always
+asking a blessing.&nbsp; I said to them, &ldquo;Cannot one of you ask
+a blessing?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No; wait until we learn, and you will see.&rdquo;&nbsp; A
+good story is told by the captain of the <i>Mayri</i>.&nbsp; Oa their
+going to Aroma to relieve the teachers after the Kalo massacre, in the
+early morning they were pulling along the reef, and just as the sun
+appeared over the mountains, one of the Motu crew called on all to be
+quiet, rowers to lean on their oars, and then engaged in prayer, thanking
+God for watching over them during the night, and praying that He would
+care for them during the day, and that no unpleasantness might occur
+with the Aroma natives.&nbsp; All along this coast, and right away down
+to Elema as far as Bald Head, the Motu tribe has a wonderful influence,
+and in a few years excellent pioneers may be had from it.&nbsp; They
+must have been a terrible lot in the past.&nbsp; I have heard much from
+themselves of piracy, murder, and robbery, and all along here they tell
+terrible tales.&nbsp; A Motu chief in one of our meetings, speaking
+of the past and the present, concluded by saying: &ldquo;Since the arrival
+of the foreigners (teachers), we have changed and will continue to change.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>An old chief, Aiio, from the Mekeo district, came in to see me, and
+brought me as a present a splendid head-dress, which is hung up by Kone
+in front of the <!-- page 182--><a name="page182"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 182</span>tent
+for all to see.&nbsp; On giving him a present of salt, it was pleasant
+to see the old fellow&rsquo;s expression of pleasure.&nbsp; He is anxious
+I should go inland as soon as possible; I tell him I must wait for tomahawks.</p>
+<p>At seven o&rsquo;clock on the morning of the 13th of June, I started
+to visit Madu, the chief of the Motu Lavao.&nbsp; We went up from the
+bight, a large saltwater creek, with dense mangrove on both banks,&mdash;a
+veritable bed of fever,&mdash;and anchoring our boats, we walked through
+the deserted village of Paitana and on for about a mile and a half to
+Motu Lavao.&nbsp; The path leads along a narrow tract of good country,
+with dense swamps on both sides.&nbsp; The village is large, with good
+houses kept nice and clean; but I can conceive of no more unhealthy
+locality&mdash;swamp all around.&nbsp; A number of people were down
+with fever, some in their houses, others lying exposed to the sun.&nbsp;
+I asked them if they had no <i>vatavata</i> (spirits) knocking around
+in their district, and did they not much trouble them.&nbsp; &ldquo;Oh,
+trouble us much, very much.&rdquo;&nbsp; I told them I thought so, and
+the sooner they removed from that place the better&mdash;that they were
+right in the centre of sickness and death.&nbsp; They said, &ldquo;And
+what is to become of the place of our forefathers, and the cocoanuts
+they planted?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Better leave them, or in a short time
+there will be none left to remember their forefathers, or eat their
+cocoanuts.&rdquo;&nbsp; Madu was in the country, and we waited his return.&nbsp;
+He tried hard to get me to stay over-night, but it <!-- page 183--><a name="page183"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 183</span>was
+of no use.&nbsp; He presented me with a pig and feathers, and we concluded
+friendship by my giving a return present.&nbsp; An old woman was presented
+to me, a great sorceress; but, not liking the sisterhood, I did not
+see my way clear to give her a present.&nbsp; Such as she keep the natives
+in constant fear, do what they like, and get what they like.&nbsp; It
+is affirmed by all that the great Lolo sorcerer, Arua, keeps snakes
+in bamboos, and uses them for his nefarious purposes.&nbsp; Late in
+the afternoon we left, accompanied by Madu and a number of youths carrying
+pig, cocoanuts, and sugar-cane.&nbsp; When leaving, the chief said,
+&ldquo;Go, Tamate; we are friends.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>On June 14th, I had a long conference with the old Paitana chief,
+Boutu, and his followers.&nbsp; They looked very much excited and alarmed
+when I met them, but that wore away during our conversation.&nbsp; Boutu,
+his party, and other Lolo natives assured me that the attack on Dr.
+James and Mr. Thorngren was unknown to all but those in the canoe.&nbsp;
+The excuse was that the day before they were trading on Yule Island
+one young man had feathers for sale.&nbsp; Dr. James and Waunaea told
+him to leave; they would not take his feathers because he objected to
+the pearl shell produced.&nbsp; This, they say, was the beginning.&nbsp;
+He tried very hard to sell his feathers, and, if possible, get a tomahawk.&nbsp;
+Failing, he went home, quietly arranged a party, slept in the bush,
+and before daylight went off to the vessel.&nbsp; On nearing <!-- page 184--><a name="page184"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 184</span>the
+vessel, Dr. James called out&mdash;&ldquo;You must not come alongside:
+you are coming to kill me.&rdquo;&nbsp; They said, &ldquo;We are not
+going to kill you, but want to sell yams.&rdquo;&nbsp; The yams were
+taken on board, and whilst Dr. James was counting the beads to pay for
+them he was struck with a club, and afterwards speared, but not quite
+disabled, as he drew his revolver and shot the man who attacked him.&nbsp;
+Mr. Thorngren was struck at from aft, fell overboard, and was never
+again seen.&nbsp; They say, when the people in the village heard of
+it, they were very sorry, and that ever since they have been looked
+upon with anger, as they have been the cause of keeping the white man
+away with his tobacco, beads, and tomahawks.&nbsp; I asked them, &ldquo;What
+now?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Let us make friends, and never again have the
+like.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;But your young men could do the same again
+without your knowing.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;They know better than try
+it again; they are too much afraid; and they see that what was then
+done has greatly injured us as well as all the other villages.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+I explained to them the object of our coming here, and that they must
+not think we are to buy everything they bring, and must not be angry
+when we refuse to give what they demand.&nbsp; We do not come to steal
+their food or curios, and, if we do not want them, they can carry all
+back; we are not traders.&nbsp; After praying with them, they said,
+&ldquo;Tamate, now let it be friendship; give up your intention of going
+to Mekeo (inland district), and come <!-- page 185--><a name="page185"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 185</span>to-morrow,
+and we shall make friends and peace.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;I shall go;
+but suppose the mother of the young man who was shot begins wailing,
+what then?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;She will doubtless wail, but you need
+not fear; come, and you will see.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Then to-morrow
+I shall go.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Next morning, the <i>Mayri</i> having arrived the evening before,
+I carried into effect the intended visit.&nbsp; The chief of Paitana
+and two followers, with my friend Lauma, of Lolo, waited to accompany
+me.&nbsp; After breakfast we got into the boat, Lavao in charge.&nbsp;
+We entered the same creek as for Motu Lavao, and when up it some distance
+turned up another to the right, too narrow to use oars.&nbsp; When two
+miles up we anchored boat, then walked or waded for two miles through
+swamp and long grass.&nbsp; When near the village we heard loud wailing,
+and Lavao, who was leading, thought it better we should wait for the
+old chief, who was some distance behind.&nbsp; On coming up they spoke
+in Lolo, then threw down his club, calling on one of his followers to
+pick it up.&nbsp; He went in front, and called on me to follow close
+to him, the others coming after; and so we marched into the village
+and up on to his platform.&nbsp; Then began speechifying, presenting
+cooked food, betel-nuts, pig, and feathers.&nbsp; When all was finished
+I gave my present, and said a few words in the Motu dialect.&nbsp; The
+uncle of the man shot by Dr. James came on to the platform, caught me
+by the arm and <!-- page 186--><a name="page186"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 186</span>shouted,
+<i>Maino</i>! (peace), saying that they, the chiefs, knew nothing of
+the attack.&nbsp; The murderers lived at the other end of the village;
+and thither, accompanied by a large party, I went.&nbsp; They gave me
+a pig, and I gave them a return present.&nbsp; The real murderer of
+Mr. Thorngren sat near me, dressed for the occasion, and four others
+who were in the canoe stood near the platform.&nbsp; The mother and
+two widows were in the house opposite, but with good sense refrained
+from wailing.&nbsp; I spoke to them of the meanness and treachery of
+attacking as they attacked Dr. James and Mr. Thorngren.&nbsp; They say
+there were ten in the canoe&mdash;one was shot, three have since died,
+and six remain.&nbsp; They also say they feel they have done wrong,
+as they not only made the foreigners their enemies, but also all the
+tribes around were angry with them.&nbsp; &ldquo;What now, then?&rdquo;&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Oh, <i>maino</i> (peace) it must be; we are friends, and so are
+all foreigners now.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;I am not a trader, but have
+come to teach about the only one true God and His love to us all in
+the gift of His Son Jesus Christ, to proclaim peace between man and
+man, and tribe and tribe.&rdquo;&nbsp; What seemed to astonish them
+most was my being alone and unarmed.&nbsp; After some time, our old
+friend came from the other end of the village and hurried us away.&nbsp;
+It was time to leave them, so, giving a few parting presents, we picked
+up our goods and away to the boat.</p>
+<h2><!-- page 187--><a name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 187</span>CHAPTER
+V.&nbsp; EAST CAPE IN 1878 AND IN 1882</h2>
+<p>Original state of the natives&mdash;War and cannibalism&mdash;How
+the mission work has been carried on&mdash;A Sunday at East Cape in
+1882&mdash;Twenty-one converts baptized&mdash;A blight prospect.</p>
+<p>In 1878, missionary work was begun at East Capes, and four years
+after the establishment of that mission, on a review of the past, what
+evidences of progress were to be seen!&nbsp; There were signs of light
+breaking in upon the long dark night of heathenism.&nbsp; Looking at
+the condition of this people when the missionaries and teachers first
+landed, what did they find?&nbsp; A people sunk in crime that to them
+has become a custom and religion&mdash;a people in whom murder is the
+finest art, and who from their earliest years study it.&nbsp; Disease,
+sickness, and death have all to be accounted for.&nbsp; They know nothing
+of malaria, filth, or contagion.&nbsp; Hence they hold that an enemy
+causes these things, and friends have to see that due punishment is
+made.&nbsp; The large night firefly helps to point in the direction
+of that enemy, or the spirits of departed ones are called in through
+spiritists&rsquo; influence to come and assist, and the medium pronouncing
+a neighbouring tribe guilty, the time is near when that tribe will <!-- page 188--><a name="page188"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 188</span>be
+visited and cruel deeds done.&nbsp; They know nothing of a God of Love&mdash;only
+gods and spirits who are ever revengeful, and must be appeased; who
+fly about in the night and disturb the peace of homes.&nbsp; It is gross
+darkness and cruelty, brother&rsquo;s hand raised against brother&rsquo;s.&nbsp;
+Great is the chief who claims many skulls; and the youth, who may wear
+a jawbone as an armlet is to be admired.</p>
+<p>When we first landed here, the natives lived only to fight, and the
+victory was celebrated by a cannibal feast.&nbsp; It is painfully significant
+to find that the only field in which New Guinea natives have shown much
+skill and ingenuity is in the manufacture of weapons.&nbsp; One of these
+is known as a Man-catcher, and was invented by the natives of Hood Bay,
+but all over the vast island this loop of rattan cane is the constant
+companion of head-hunters.&nbsp; The peculiarity of the weapon is the
+deadly spike inserted in the handle.</p>
+<p>The <i>modus operandi</i> is as follows:&mdash;The loop is thrown
+over the unhappy wretch who is in retreat, and a vigorous pull from
+the brawny arm of the vengeful captor jerks the victim upon the spike,
+which (if the weapon be deftly handled) penetrates the body at the base
+of the brain, or, if lower down, in the spine, in either case inflicting
+a death-wound.</p>
+<p>All these things are changed, or in process of change.&nbsp; For
+several years there have been no cannibal ovens, no desire for skulls.&nbsp;
+Tribes that could not formerly meet but to fight, now meet as friends,
+and sit side by <!-- page 189--><a name="page189"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 189</span>side
+in the same house worshipping the true God.&nbsp; Men and women who,
+on the arrival of the mission, sought the missionaries&rsquo; lives,
+are only anxious now to do what they can to assist them, even to the
+washing of their feet.&nbsp; How the change came about is simply by
+the use of the same means as those acted upon in many islands of the
+Pacific.&nbsp; The first missionaries landed not only to preach the
+Gospel of Divine love, but also to live it, and to show to the savage
+a more excellent way than theirs.&nbsp; Learning the language, mixing
+freely with them, showing kindnesses, receiving the same, travelling
+with them, differing from them, making friends, assisting them in their
+trading, and in every way making them feel that their good only was
+sought.&nbsp; They thought at first that we were compelled to leave
+our own land because of hunger!</p>
+<p>Teachers were placed amongst the people; many sickened and died.&nbsp;
+There was a time of great trial, but how changed is everything now!&nbsp;
+Four years pass on, and, in 1882, we visit them.&nbsp; We left Port
+Moresby, and arrived at East Cape on a Sunday.&nbsp; Morning service
+was finished, and, from the vessel, we saw a number of natives well
+dressed, standing near the mission house, waiting to receive us.&nbsp;
+The teachers came off, and with them several lads, neatly dressed.&nbsp;
+After hearing from them of the work, and of how the people were observing
+the Sabbath, we landed, and were met by a quiet, orderly company of
+<!-- page 190--><a name="page190"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 190</span>men,
+women, and boys, who welcomed us as real friends.&nbsp; The first to
+shake hands with us was a chief from the opposite side of the bay, who
+in early days gave us much trouble, and had to be well watched.&nbsp;
+Now he was dressed, and his appearance much altered.&nbsp; It was now
+possible to meet him and feel he was a friend.&nbsp; We found Pi Vaine
+very ill, and not likely to live long; yet she lived long enough to
+rejoice in the glorious success of the Gospel of Christ, and to see
+many of those for whom she laboured profess Christianity.&nbsp; We were
+astonished, when we met in the afternoon, at the orderly service&mdash;the
+nice well-tuned singing of hymns, translated by the teacher, and the
+attention, when he read a chapter in Mark&rsquo;s Gospel&mdash;translated
+by him from the Rarotongan into the dialect of the place.&nbsp; When
+he preached to them, all listened attentively, and seemed to be anxious
+not to forget a single word.&nbsp; Two natives prayed with great earnestness
+and solemnity.&nbsp; After service all remained, and were catechised
+on the sermon, and then several present stood up and exhorted their
+friends to receive the Gospel.&nbsp; Many strangers were present, and
+they were exhorted to come as often as possible and hear the good news.&nbsp;
+Then, again, others offered prayers.&nbsp; We found that numbers came
+in on the Saturday with food and cooking-pots, and remained until Monday
+morning.&nbsp; They lived with the teachers, and attended all the services,
+beginning with a prayer-meeting on Saturday night.</p>
+<p><!-- page 191--><a name="page191"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 191</span>During
+our stay of a few days, they all remained at the station, and we saw
+much of them.&nbsp; The teachers said there were twenty-one who professed
+faith in Christ and had given up heathenism and desired baptism.&nbsp;
+We visited further on to the east, and we were a week away on our return
+to East Cape, and after close examination of each candidate we decided
+to baptize them on the following Tuesday.&nbsp; The service was most
+interesting, and well attended by persons from various places.&nbsp;
+At night we examined the children and grown-up people who attend school,
+and were much pleased with them.&nbsp; A few can read in the Motu dialect;
+others know how to put letters together and form words.&nbsp; We hope
+soon to have one or two books in their own dialect.&nbsp; Of those baptized
+several are anxious to be instructed, that they may be better fitted
+to do work for Christ amongst their own countrymen.&nbsp; Already they
+hold services, and exhort in other villages, and when travelling they
+do all the good they can to others.</p>
+<p>We are in hopes soon to receive a number of young men and women at
+Port Moresby, and begin our Institution, to be called &ldquo;The New
+Guinea Institution for Training Evangelists.&rdquo;&nbsp; At present
+we shall proceed quickly, building native houses for students, and a
+class room to be bought in the colonies, towards which our true friends
+in North Adelaide contribute largely.</p>
+<p>The harvest ripens fast: where shall we look for <!-- page 192--><a name="page192"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 192</span>labourers?&nbsp;
+The Master has said, &ldquo;Pray.&rdquo;&nbsp; May they soon be sent!&nbsp;
+The light is shining, the darkness is breaking, and the thick clouds
+are moving, and the hidden ones are being gathered in.&nbsp; We have
+already plucked the first flowers; stern winter yields, and soon we
+shall have the full spring, the singing of birds, and the trees in full
+blossom.&nbsp; Hasten it, O Lord, we plead!</p>
+<p>LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STREET
+AND CHARING CROSS.</p>
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES IN NEW GUINEA***</p>
+<pre>
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