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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/18479-0.txt b/18479-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cb7a867 --- /dev/null +++ b/18479-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8523 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Campaigns of the British Army at Washington and New Orleans, 1814-1815, by G. R. Gleig + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + +Title: The Campaigns of the British Army at Washington and New Orleans, 1814-1815 + +Author: G. R. Gleig + +Release Date: June 1, 2006 [EBook #18479] +[Most recently updated: February 16, 2020] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAMPAIGNS OF THE BRITISH ARMY AT WASHINGTON AND NEW ORLEANS *** + + + + +Produced by Geoffrey Cowling + + + + +The Campaigns of the British Army at Washington and New Orleans, +1814-1815 + +by Rev. G. R. Gleig, M.A., + +Chaplain-General to the forces; +Author of _The Subaltern_; _Story of the Battle of Waterloo_; +_Life of Lord Clive_; _Life of Sir Thomas Munro_, etc. + +NEW EDITION +1879 + + + + +ADVERTISEMENT. + + +The following Narrative contains, it is believed, the only connected +and authentic account, which has yet been given, of the expedition +directed against Washington and New Orleans, towards the close of the +late American war. It has been compiled, not from memory alone, but +from a journal kept by the author whilst engaged in the enterprise; and +as the adventures of each were faithfully noted down as they occurred, +and such remarks made upon passing events as suggested themselves to +his mind at the moment, the public may rely with confidence upon +general correctness of the details. The issues of the expedition were +not, indeed, of the most gratifying nature, but it is hoped that a +plain relation of the proceedings of those to whom it was intrusted, +will not, on that account, prove uninteresting; whilst nothing can be +more evident than that the portion of our history which it embraces +ought not to be overlooked because it is little conducive to the +encouragement of national vanity. It was chiefly, indeed, upon this +account, as well as with a view to redeem from an oblivion which they +hardly merit, the actions and sufferings of a few brave men, that the +Narrative now submitted to the public was written. + +Contents + +CHAPTER I. +Cessation of Hostilities—Expected Embarkation for America—Encampment +near Passages—March towards Bordeaux-Anglet + +CHAPTER II. +Bayonne—St. Etienne—March through Bayonne, to Ondres + +CHAPTER III. +Les Landes—March to Bordeaux—Bordeaux—Macan—La Moe—At Sea + +CHAPTER IV. +At Sea—St. Michael’s—Villa Franca + +CHAPTER V. +St Michael’s—Ponto del Gada—At Sea + +CHAPTER VI. +Bermuda + +CHAPTER VII. +America—The Chesapeake—The Partuxent—St. Benedicts + +CHAPTER VIII. +Nottingham—Marlborough + +CHAPTER IX. +March to Washington—Bladensburg + +CHAPTER X. +Washington + +CHAPTER XI. +Washington—Bladensburg—Marlborough—St Benedicts + +CHAPTER XII. +Alexandria—The Patuxent—The Patapsco + +CHAPTER XIII. +March—Attack—Halt + +CHAPTER XIV. +March—Halt—Search—March—Rally—Halt + +CHAPTER XV. +The Patuxent—The Potomac—The Chesapeake—At Sea—The West Indies + +CHAPTER XVI. +The West Indies—Port Royal—Kingston—Jamaica—The Blue Mountains + +CHAPTER XVII. +The Blue Mountains—Port Royal—Negril Bay + +CHAPTER XVIII. +At Sea—New Orleans—Lake Borgne—Pine Island + +CHAPTER XIX. +Pine Island—The Lake—Landing—March—Halt + +CHAPTER XX. +Halt—Attack—Field of Battle—Hospital + +CHAPTER XXI. +Advance—Attack—March—Attack—Retreat—Preparations + +CHAPTER XXII. +Attack—Retreat—Pause—Attack—Re-embarkation + +CHAPTER XXIII. +The Camp—Preparations for Retreat—Retreat—Halt + +CHAPTER XXIV. +The Lake—Mobile—Siege—Peace—Havannah + +CHAPTER XXV. +Havannah—Remarks + + + + +THE BRITISH ARMY +AT +WASHINGTON AND NEW ORLEANS. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +A revolution must occur in the condition and sentiments of mankind more +decided than we have any reason to expect that the lapse of ages will +produce, before the mighty events which distinguished the spring of +1814 shall be spoken of in other terms than those of unqualified +admiration. It was then that Europe, which during so many years had +groaned beneath the miseries of war, found herself at once, and to her +remotest recesses, blessed with the prospect of a sure and permanent +peace. Princes, who had dwelt in exile till the very hope of +restoration to power began to depart from them, beheld themselves +unexpectedly replaced on the thrones of their ancestors; dynasties, +which the will of one man had erected, disappeared with the same +abruptness with which they had arisen; and the influence of changes +which a quarter of a century of rapine and conquest had produced in the +arrangements of general society, ceased, as if by magic, to be felt, or +at least to be acknowledged. It seemed, indeed, as if all which had +been passing during the last twenty or thirty years, had passed not in +reality, but in a dream; so perfectly unlooked for were the issues of a +struggle, to which, whatever light we may regard it, the history of the +whole world presents no parallel. + +At the period above alluded to, it was the writer’s fortune to form one +of a body of persons in whom the unexpected cessation of hostilities +may be supposed to have excited sensations more powerful and more mixed +than those to which the common occurrences of life are accustomed to +give birth. He was then attached to that portion of the Peninsular army +to which the siege of Bayonne had been intrusted; and on the 28th of +April beheld, in common with his comrades, the tri-coloured flag, +which, for upwards of two months, had waved defiance from the +battlements, give place to the ancient drapeau blanc of the Bourbons. +That such a spectacle could be regarded by any British soldier without +stirring up in him strong feelings of national pride and exultation, is +not to be imagined. I believe, indeed, that there was not a man in our +ranks, however humble his station, to whose bosom these feelings were a +stranger. But the excitation of the moment having passed away, other +and no less powerful feelings succeeded; and they were painful, or the +reverse, according as they ran in one or other of the channels into +which the situations and prospects of individuals not unnaturally +guided them. By such as had been long absent from their homes, the idea +of enjoying once more the society of friends and relatives, was hailed +with a degree of delight too engrossing to afford room for the +occurrence of any other anticipations; to those who had either no homes +to look to, or had quitted them only a short time ago, the thoughts of +revisiting England came mixed with other thoughts, little gratifying, +because at variance with all their dreams of advancement and renown. +For my own part I candidly confess, that though I had just cause to +look forward to a return to the bosom of my family with as much +satisfaction as most men, the restoration of peace excited in me +sensations of a very equivocal nature. At the age of eighteen, and +still enthusiastically attached to my profession, neither the prospect +of a reduction to half-pay, nor the expectation of a long continuance +in a subaltern situation, were to me productive of any pleasurable +emotions; and hence, though I entered heartily into all the +arrangements by which those about me strove to evince their +gratification at the glorious termination of the war, it must be +acknowledged that I did so, without experiencing much of the +satisfaction with the semblance of which my outward behaviour might be +marked. + +EXPECTED EMBARKATION FOR AMERICA. + +Such being my own feelings, and the feelings of the great majority of +those immediately around me, it was but natural that we should turn our +views to the only remaining quarter of the globe in which the flame of +war still continued to burn. Though at peace with France, England, we +remembered; was not yet at peace with the United States; and reasoning, +not as statesmen but as soldiers, we concluded that she was not now +likely to make peace with that nation till she should be able to do so +upon her own terms. Having such an army on foot, what line of policy +could appear so natural or so judicious as that she should employ, if +not the whole, at all events a large proportion of it, in chastising an +enemy, than whom none had ever proved more vindictive or more +ungenerous? Our view of the matter accordingly was, that some fifteen +or twenty thousand men would be forthwith embarked on board of ship and +transported to the other side of the Atlantic; that the war would there +be carried on with a vigour conformable to the dignity and resources of +the country which waged it; and that no mention of peace would be made +till our general should be in a situation to dictate its conditions in +the enemy’s capital. + +Whether any design of the kind was ever seriously entertained, or +whether men merely asserted as a truth what they earnestly desired to +be such, I know not; but the white flag had hardly been hoisted on the +citadel of Bayonne, when a rumour became prevalent that an extensive +encampment of troops, destined for the American war, was actually +forming in the vicinity of Bordeaux. A variety of causes led me to +anticipate that the corps to which I was attached would certainly be +employed upon that service. In the progress of the war which had been +just brought to a conclusion, we had not suffered so severely as many +other corps; and though not excelling in numbers, it is but justice to +affirm that a more effective or better organized battalion could not be +found in the whole army. We were all, moreover, from our commanding +officer down to the youngest ensign, anxious to gather a few more +laurels, even in America; and we had good reason to believe that those +in power were not indisposed to gratify our inclinations. Under these +circumstances we clung with fondness to the hope that our martial +career had not yet come to a close; and employed the space which +intervened between the eventful 28th of April and the 8th of the +following month, chiefly in forming guesses as to the point of attack +towards which it was likely that we should be turned. + +ENCAMPMENT NEAR PASSAGES. + +Though there was peace between the French and British nations, the form +of hostilities was so far kept up between the garrison of Bayonne and +the army encamped around it, that it was only by an especial treaty +that the former were allowed to send out parties for the purpose of +collecting forage and provisions from the adjacent country. The +foraging parties, however, being permitted to proceed in any direction +most convenient to themselves, the supplies of corn and grass, which +had heretofore proved barely sufficient for our own horses and cattle, +soon began to fail, and it was found necessary to move more than one +brigade to a distance from the city. Among others, the brigade of which +my regiment formed a part, received orders on the 7th of May to fall +back on the road towards Passages. These orders we obeyed on the +following morning; and after an agreeable march of fifteen or sixteen +miles, pitched our tents in a thick wood, about half-way between the +village of Bedart and the town of St. Jean de Luz. In this position we +remained for nearly a week, our expectations of employment on the other +side of the Atlantic becoming daily less and less sanguine, till at +length all doubts on the subject were put an end to by the sudden +arrival of a dispatch, which commanded us to set out with as little +delay as possible towards Bordeaux. + +It was on the evening of the 14th that the route was received, and on +the following morning, at daybreak, we commenced our march. The country +through which we moved had nothing in it, unconnected with past events, +calculated in any extraordinary degree to attract attention. Behind us, +indeed, rose the Pyrenees in all their grandeur, forming, on that side, +a noble boundary to the prospect; and on our left was the sea, a +boundary different it is true in kind, though certainly not less +magnificent. But, excepting at these two extremities, there was nothing +in the landscape on which the eye loved particularly to rest, because +the country, though pretty enough, has none of that exquisite richness +and luxuriance which we had been led to expect as characteristic of the +South of France. The houses, too, being all in a ruinous and +dilapidated condition, reminded us more forcibly of the scenes of +violence and outrage which had been lately acted among them, than of +those ideas of rural contentment and innocence which various tales and +melodramas had taught us to associate in our own minds with thoughts of +the land of the vine. + +MARCH TOWARDS BORDEAUX + +Regarded, however, in connexion with past events, the scene was indeed +most interesting; though to a stranger fresh from England—a man, we +will suppose, of retired and peaceful habits, I can readily imagine +that it would have been productive of much pain; for on each side of +the road, in whatever direction we cast our eyes, and as far as the +powers of vision extended, we beheld cottages unroofed and in ruins, +chateaux stripped of their doors and windows, gardens laid waste, the +walls demolished, and the fruit-trees cut down; whole plantations +levelled, and vineyards trodden under foot. Here and there, likewise, a +redoubt or breastwork presented itself; whilst caps, broken firelocks, +pieces of clothing, and accoutrements scattered about in profusion, +marked the spots where the strife had been most determined, and where +many a fine fellow had met his fate. Our journey lay over a field of +battle, through the entire extent of which the houses were not only +thoroughly gutted (to use a vulgar but most expressive phrase), but for +the most part were riddled with cannon-shot. Round some of the largest, +indeed, there was not a wall nor a tree which did not present evident +proofs of its having been converted into a temporary place of defence, +whilst the deep ruts in what had once been lawns and flower-gardens, +showed that all their beauty had not protected them from being +destroyed by the rude passage of heavy artillery. + +Immediately beyond the village of Bedart such spectacles were +particularly frequent. It was here, it may be remembered, that in the +preceding month of December there had been fighting for four successive +days; and the number of little hillocks now within our view; from under +most of which legs and arms were beginning to show themselves, as well +as the other objects which I have attempted to describe, sufficiently +attested the obstinacy with which that fighting had been maintained. + +In the bosom of a man of peace it is very conceivable that all this +would have excited feelings exceedingly painful; in ours, such feelings +were overborne by others of a very different nature. If we gazed with +peculiar interest upon one hovel more than upon another, it was because +some of us had there maintained ourselves; if we endeavoured to count +the number of shot-holes in any wall, or the breaks in any hedge, it +was because we had stood behind it when “the iron hail” fell thick and +fast around us. Our thoughts, in short, had more of exultation in them +than of sorrow; for though now and then, when the name of a fallen +comrade was mentioned, it was accompanied with a “poor fellow” the +conversation soon returned again to the exploits and hair-breadth +escapes of the survivors. On the whole, therefore, our march was one of +deep interest and high excitement, feelings which did not entirely +evaporate when we halted, about two hours after noon, at the village of +Anglet. + +MARCH TOWARDS BORDEAUX—ANGLET + +We found this village in the condition in which it was to be expected +that a place of so much importance during the progress of the late +siege would be found, in other words, completely metamorphosed into a +chain of petty posts. Being distant from the outworks of Bayonne not +more than a mile and a half, and standing upon the great road by which +all the supplies for the left of the British army were brought up, no +means, as may be supposed, had been neglected, which art or nature +could supply, towards rendering it as secure against a sudden excursion +of the garrison as might be. About one hundred yards in front of it +felled trees were laid across the road, with their branches turned +towards the town, forming what soldiers, in the language of their +profession, term an abattis. Forty or fifty yards in rear of this a +ditch was dug, and a breastwork thrown up, from behind which a party +might do great execution upon any body of men struggling to force their +way over that impediment. On each side of the highway again, where the +ground rises into little eminences, redoubts and batteries were +erected, so as to command the whole with a heavy flanking fire; while +every house and hovel lying at all within the line of expected +operations was loop-holed, and otherwise put in a posture of defence. +But upon the fortification of the church a more than ordinary degree of +care seemed to have been bestowed. As it stood upon a little eminence +in the middle of the hamlet, it was no hard matter to convert it into a +tolerably regular fortress, which might serve the double purpose of a +magazine for warlike stores and a post of defence against the enemy. +With this view the churchyard was surrounded by a row of stout palings, +called in military phraseology stockades, from certain openings in +which the muzzles of half a dozen pieces of light artillery protruded. +The walls of the edifice itself were, moreover, strengthened by an +embankment of earth to the height of perhaps four or five feet from the +ground, above which narrow openings were made, in order to give to its +garrison an opportunity of levelling their muskets; while on the top of +the tower a small howitzer was mounted, from which either shot or shell +could be thrown with effect into any of the lanes or passes near. It is +probably needless to add that the interior arrangements of this house +of God had undergone a change as striking as that which affected its +exterior. Barrels of gunpowder, with piles of balls of all sizes and +dimensions, now occupied the spaces where worshippers had often +crowded; and the very altar was heaped up with spunges, wadding, and +other implements necessary in case of an attack. + +I have been thus minute in my description of Anglet, because what has +been said of it will apply more or less exactly to every village, +hamlet, or cluster of cottages, within the compass of what were called +the lines. It is true that neither here nor elsewhere, excepting at one +particular point, and that on the opposite side of the river, were any +serious intentions entertained of broaching or storming the place; and +that the sole object of these preparations was to keep the enemy within +his works, and to cut him off from all communication with the +surrounding country. But to effect even this end, the utmost vigilance +and precaution were necessary, not only because the number of troops +employed on the service was hardly adequate to discharge it, but +because the garrison hemmed in was well known to be at once numerous +and enterprising. The reader may accordingly judge what appearance a +country presented which, to the extent of fifteen or twenty miles +round, was thus treated; where every house was fortified, every road +blocked up, every eminence mined with fieldworks, and every place +swarming with armed men. Nor was its aspect less striking by night than +by day. Gaze where he might, the eye of the spectator then rested upon +some portion of one huge circle of fires, by the glare of which the +white tents or rudely constructed huts of the besiegers were from time +to time made visible. + +While things continued thus, the condition of the peaceful inhabitant +of this district could hardly fail to be one of extreme discomfort. Of +these the greater number had indeed fled on the advance of the British +army, leaving their houses and effects a prey to the conquerors; but +there were some who, having probably no place of refuge to retire to, +remained in their homes, and threw themselves upon our mercy for +protection. It is not requisite that I should now inform the reader of +the strict discipline which Lord Wellington preserved in every division +of his army; his first step, on entering France, had been to inform the +people that against them no violence was intended; and the assurance +thus given, was in no instance, at least wantonly, violated. But, +however orderly the conduct of an invading force may be, their very +presence must occasion a thousand inconveniences to those upon whom +they are quartered; not the least distressing of which is, perhaps, the +feeling of degradation which the consciousness of being in the power of +armed foreigners can hardly fail to produce. Then there is the total +destruction of all domestic comfort, which the occupation of a man’s +house by large bodies of soldiers produces; the liability to which the +females, in particular, are exposed to insult from the common troopers; +and the dread of vengeance from any delinquent on whom their complaints +may have brought down chastisement, all these things must and do create +a degree of misery, of which the inhabitants of Great Britain may thank +God that they know nothing except by name. In the vicinity of Bayonne, +moreover, the country people lived in daily and nightly expectation of +finding themselves involved in all the horrors and dangers of a battle. +Sorties were continually looked for, and however these might terminate, +the non-combatants felt that they must be equally the sufferers. Nay, +it was no uncommon ground of complaint among them, that even the total +defeat of our forces would bring with it no relief, because, by +remaining to receive us, they had disobeyed the proclamations of +Marshal Soult, and were consequently liable to punishment as traitors. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +A soon as the bustle of encamping was over, and my time absolutely at +my own disposal, I took advantage of an offered passport, and proceeded +into Bayonne. It will be readily believed that I entered this city with +feelings very different from those of a common traveller. Having lain +before it as a besieger for upwards of two months, its shops, its +trade, its public buildings and places of amusement were to me objects +of, comparatively speaking, little interest or curiosity. Its +fortifications and means of defence were, in truth, what I was +principally anxious to examine. Hitherto I could judge of them only +from outward appearances and vague reports; and now that an opportunity +offered of so doing with greater accuracy, I confess that my +inclination prompted me to embrace that opportunity, rather than to +hunt for pictures which I could not value, or fatigue my imagination by +endeavouring to discover fine specimens of architecture amidst heavy +and ill-built churches. + +It is not my intention to attempt any scientific or technical review of +the works which a very natural curiosity tempted me to examine; partly +because I confess myself little competent to the task and partly +because, were the contrary the case, I am inclined to believe that such +a review would not prove very interesting to the public in general. +Enough is done if I endeavour to impress my reader with as many of the +feelings which I then experienced, as may be done by detailing them; +and, at the same time, enable him to form some general idea of a place +before whose walls no trifling quantity of British blood has been +spilt. + +The city of Bayonne stands, as everybody knows, upon the Adour, about +six or eight miles from the point where that river falls into the sea. +On the southern or Spanish bank, where the whole of the city, properly +so called, is built, the country, to the distance of two or three miles +from the walls, is perfectly flat and the soil sandy, and apparently +not very productive. On the bank the ground rises rather abruptly from +the brink of the stream, sloping upwards likewise from the sea, till +you arrive at the pinnacle upon which the citadel is erected, and which +hangs immediately over the town. Thus, though the Adour in fact +separates the city from the suburbs and citadel, yet as the ramparts of +the former extend to the water’s edge on both sides, and as those of +the latter continue the sweep from points immediately opposite, the +general appearance presented is that of one considerable town, with a +broad river flowing through the middle of it. + +It will be seen, even from this short and imperfect sketch, that its +situation gives to Bayonne, considered as a military post, a +superiority over most cities; inasmuch as it affords peculiar +facilities towards rendering it a place of great strength. On one side +there is a plain, always accounted by engineers the most convenient for +the construction of fortifications; on the other an eminence, lofty +enough to command the surrounding country, and at the same time +sufficiently level at the summit to receive the walls of a fortress, +powerful at once from its position and regularity. But the great +strength of Bayonne arose at this juncture not so much from its +original defences as from the numerous outworks which had been lately +added to it. It was along the course of the Adour, as the reader will +probably recollect, or rather between the Adour and the Nieve, that +Soult formed his famous intrenched camp. The right of this chain of +stupendous works rested upon the city, the importance of which was +consequently much increased; and as the capture of it would have +occasioned not only the loss of a town, but the turning of the whole +position, no pains were spared in rendering it as nearly impregnable as +possible. That I may convey some notion to the minds of others of the +nature of these works, I will describe the aspect which they presented +to myself, as I rode from Anglet towards the city. + +When I had proceeded about a mile and a half beyond our advanced posts, +I found myself in front of the first line of defence. This consisted of +a battery mounting three eighteen-pounders, upon the road, flanked by +other batteries, one on each side; all so placed as that whichsoever of +them should be attacked, it might be defended by a cross-fire from the +rest. These were of course additionally strengthened by ditches and +felled trees; but they were open in the rear; and though very +formidable to an assailing party, yet, when taken, could have been of +small service to the conquerors, being themselves exposed to the fire +of the second line. The situation of the second line, again, was +similar in every respect to that of the first, being, like it, open in +the rear, and placed under the guns of the town. Thus, after having +forced two powerful lines of defence, the besiegers would find +themselves almost as far as ever from the attainment of their object, +being then only arrived at the point where the labours of a siege could +commence. + +But the maintenance of Bayonne must at all times depend upon keeping +possession of the citadel. The city lying upon a plain, and the castle +standing upon an eminence immediately above it, it is clear that, were +the latter taken, the former must either surrender or be speedily +reduced to ruins. It is true that, by destroying the bridge which +connects them, all communication between the two places would be cut +off; but the distance from the one to the other being not more than +half-musket shot, and the guns of the fort pointing directly down upon +the streets and of the city, any attempt to hold out could cause only +the destruction of the town, and the unavenged slaughter of its +garrison. Of the truth of this the French were as much aware as their +enemies, nor did they neglect any means which an accurate knowledge of +engineering could point out, for the defence of what they justly +considered as the key of the entire position. In addition to its own +very regular and well-constructed fortifications, two strong redoubts +were thrown up, on two sides of the fort, upon the only spots of ground +calculated for the purpose; both of which, I was informed by my guide, +were undermined and loaded with gunpowder, ready to be sprung as soon +as they should fill into our hands. They had judged, and judged +correctly, that if ever the place should be invested, it would be that +the trenches would be opened and the breaching batteries erected; and +they made every preparation to meet the danger which great prudence and +military skill could suggest. + +Bayonne, though a populous place, does not cover so much ground as a +stranger would be led to suppose. Like most walled towns, its streets, +with the exception of one or two, are in general narrow, and the houses +lofty: but it is compact, and, on the whole, clean, and neatly built. +The number of inhabitants I should be inclined to estimate at somewhere +about thirty thousand, exclusive of the garrison, which at this time +amounted to fourteen or fifteen thousand men; but as most of the +families appear to live in the style of those in the old town of +Edinburgh, that is to say, several under the same roof, though each in +a separate story or flat, it is not difficult to conceive how they +contrive to find sufficient room, within a compass apparently so +narrow. Of its commerce and manufactures I can say little, except that +I should not imagine either to be extensive. I am led to form this +opinion, partly from having seen no shipping at the wharfs, and partly +because the Adour, though here both wide and deep, is rendered +unnavigable to vessels of any size, by a shallow or bar at its mouth. +There was, indeed, a sloop of war close to the town, but how it got +there I am at a loss to conceive, unless it were built upon the river, +and kept as an additional protection against a surprise from the water. +The shops are, however, good, particularly those where jewellery is +sold; an article in the setting and adorning of which the French, if +they do not excel us in really substantial value, undoubtedly surpass +us in elegance. + +When I had taken as complete a survey of the town as I felt disposed to +take, I crossed the bridge with the intention of inspecting the +interior of the citadel. Here, however, I was disappointed, no +strangers being admitted within its gates; but as there was no +objection made to my reconnoitring it from without, I proceeded towards +the point where our trenches had been dug, and where it had been +designed to breach and storm the place. To this I was urged by two +motives, partly from the desire of obtaining the best view possible of +the fort, and partly that I might examine the ground upon which the +desperate affair of the 14th of April took place. The reader cannot +have forgotten, that some hours before daylight on the morning of that +day, a vigorous and well-arranged sortie was made by the garrison, and +that it was not without hard fighting and a severe loss on both sides +that the attack was finally repulsed. + +Mounting the heights, I soon arrived at St. Etienne, a little village +nearly on a level with the citadel, and not more than a quarter of a +mile from its walls. From this point I could satisfy my curiosity to +the full, and as the account may not, perhaps, be uninteresting, I +shall describe, as well as I am able, the scene which here met my eyes. + +St. Etienne + +The ridge of little hills upon which the fort and village are built, +though it rises by gentle gradation from the sea, towards the spot +where I now stood, is nevertheless intersected and broken here and +there by deep glens or ravines. Two of these glens, one to the right, +the other to the left, chance to occur immediately under the ramparts +of the fortress, supplying, in some measure, the purposes of a ditch, +and leaving a sort of table or elevated neck of land between them, the +extremity of which is occupied by the village. On this neck of land the +besieged had constructed one of the redoubts to which I alluded as +having been lately thrown up; whilst on another table, at the opposite +side of the left ravine, which winds round in the direction of the +wall, as nearly as if it were the work of art, stands the other +redoubt. Beyond this, again, there is a perpendicular precipice, the +hills there abruptly ending; so that on two sides the walls of the fort +skirt the extremity of a bare rock. It was along the outer ridges of +these ravines, and through the churchyard of St. Etienne, that our +trenches were drawn, the village itself being the most advanced British +post; and it was along these ridges, and in the street of this village, +that the action of the 14th of April was fought. + +It is not my business, neither indeed is it my intention, to relate +here the particulars of that affair. The French, having contrived, in a +dark night, to elude the vigilance of our sentinels, came upon the +piquets unperceived, and took them completely by surprise. The battle +was maintained on both sides with great determination, and had it not +been for the unfortunate capture of Sir John Hope and the fall of +General Hay, the assailants would have had little cause to rejoice at +the result: for though the loss of the English was certainly great, +that of the French was at least not inferior. Yet the business was an +unfortunate one to both parties, since, before it took place, +Buonaparte had already abdicated, and the preliminaries of peace were +already signed between the two nations. + +I found the village, in which the fighting had been most obstinately +maintained, in the condition of most villages where such dramas have +been acted. The street had been barricaded, but the barricade was +almost entirely torn down; the houses, trees, and church, like those we +had passed upon the march, were covered with the marks of cannon and +musket balls, whilst quantities of round and grape shot, of musket and +pistol bullets, broken bayonets, swords, &c. &c., lay scattered about +in every direction. Nor were these the only evidences of strife +discernible. In many places—on the pavement of the street, in the +churchyard, but above all, on the floor of the church itself, —the +traces of blood were still distinctly visible. Beside the remains of +the barricade there stood a solitary six-pounder, which had been taken +and re-taken nine times during the struggle; and a sprinkling of what +looked like a mixture of blood and brains still adhering to its +carriage and breech, showed that it had never been given up without the +most desperate resistance. The mounds, too, under which the dead were +buried, presented a peculiarly striking appearance; for the field of +action having been narrow, those that fell, fell in heaps together, and +being buried in the same way, one was led to form an idea of greater +slaughter than if double the number of graves had been distinguishable +in a more extended space. + +Having now accomplished my wishes as far as I could, and beginning to +feel somewhat fatigued with strolling about, I adjourned to an hotel in +the city, from whence, in the evening, I went to the play. The house +was poor and the performance miserable, consequently there was no great +inducement to sit out the whole of the piece. After witnessing an act +or two, therefore, I returned to the inn, where I slept, and at an +early hour next morning rejoined my regiment, already under arms and +making preparations for the continuance of the march. + +MARCH THROUGH BAYONNE—TO ONDRES + +As it would have been considerably out of our way to go round by the +floating bridge[1], permission was applied for and granted, to pass +directly through Bayonne. With bayonets fixed, band playing, and +colours flying, we accordingly marched along the streets of that city; +a large proportion of the garrison being drawn up to receive us, and +the windows crowded with spectators, male and female, eager to behold +the troops from whom not long ago they had probably expected a visit of +a very different nature. The scene was certainly remarkable enough, and +the transition from animosity to good-will as singular as it was +sudden; nor do I imagine that it would be easy to define the sensations +of either party, on being thus strangely brought n contact with the +other. The females, indeed, waved their handkerchiefs, whilst we bowed +and kissed our hands; but I thought I could discover something like a +suppressed scowl upon the countenances of the military. Certain it is, +that in whatever light the new state of affairs might be regarded by +the great bulk of the nation, with the army it was by no means popular; +and at this period they appeared to consider the passage of British +troops through their lines as the triumphal entrance of a victorious +enemy. + + [1] The bridge here alluded to was thrown across the Adour by the Duke + of Wellington at the commencement of the siege. It was composed of a + number of small fishing vessels fastened together with cords, and + planked from one to another, the whole firmly moored about three miles + below Bayonne. Whether the daringness of the attempt, or the + difficulties surmounted in its completion, be considered, the + construction of this bridge may be looked upon as one of the most + extraordinary actions of that extraordinary man. + + +As soon as we had cleared the entrenchments of Bayonne, and got beyond +the limits of the allied camps, we found ours in a country more +peaceful and more picturesque than any we had yet traversed. There were +here no signs of war or marks of violence. The cottages were covered +with honeysuckle and roses, the gardens were blooming in the most +perfect order; the corn was growing in great plenty and richness, and +the vines were clustering round their poles like the hops in the +gardens of Kent. It is impossible to describe the feeling of absolute +refreshment which such a sight stirred up in men who, for so long a +time, had looked upon nothing but ruin and devastation. It is true that +with respect to grandeur, or even beauty, the scenery through which we +now travelled was not to be compared with the sublime passes of the +Pyrenees, or with many spots which we had beheld; but in truth, a +hamlet uninjured and tenanted by its own rude peasantry, a field of +Indian corn exhibiting no wasteful track of foragers, nay, a single +cottage with its flowers and evergreens budding around it, was at this +a more welcome object to our eyes than the wildest mountains or most +romantic valleys displaying no habitations except white tents and no +inhabitants except soldiers. For my own part I felt as if I had once +more returned into the bosom of civilized and domestic life, after +having been for many months a wanderer and a savage. + +The road along which we proceeded had been made by Napoleon, and was +remarkably good. It was sheltered, on each side, from the rays of the +sun, by groves of cork-trees mingled with fir; by which means, though +the day was overpoweringly hot, we did not suffer so much as we should +otherwise have done. Our march was, therefore, exceedingly agreeable, +and we came in, about noon, very little fatigued, to the village of +Ondres, where the tents were pitched, and we remained till the morrow. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +LES LANDES + + +The dawn was just beginning to appear, when the bugles sounded, and the +tents were struck. For the first few leagues, our route to-day +resembled that of yesterday, in almost every particular. There was the +same appearance of peaceful quiet, the same delightful intermingling of +woods, corn-fields, vineyards, and pasture; but we had not proceeded +far, when a marked difference was perceptible; every step we trod, the +soil became more and more sandy, the cultivation less frequent, and the +wood more abundant, till at last we found ourselves marching through +the heart of an immense forest of pines. We had diverged, it appeared, +from the main road, which carries the traveller through a rich and open +country, and were pursuing another through the middle of those deserts +and savannahs which lie towards the coast; a district known by the name +of les Landes. There was something, if not beautiful, at least new and +striking in the scenery now around us. Wherever the eye turned, it was +met by one wide waste of gloomy pine-trees; diversified, here and +there, by the unexpected appearance of a modest hamlet, which looked as +if it were the abode of some newly arrived settlers in a country +hitherto devoid of human habitations. + +Were I to continue the detail of a long march through these barren +regions, I should soon fatigue, without amusing my reader: I shall, +therefore, content myself with observing, that day after day the same +dreary prospect presented itself, varied by the occasional occurrence +of huge uncultivated plains, which apparently chequer the forest, at +certain intervals, with spots of stunted and unprofitable pasturage; +upon these there were usually flocks of sheep grazing, in the mode of +watching which, the peasants fully evinced the truth of the old +proverb, that necessity is the mother of invention. I do not know +whether the practice to which I allude be generally known, but as it +struck me as very remarkable, I shall offer no apology for relating it. + +The whole of this district, as well where it is wooded, as where it is +bare, is perfectly flat, containing scarcely a knoll or eminence any +sort, as far as the eye can reach. In addition to this, the vast plains +where the sheep are fed, many of which extend two or three leagues in +every direction, produce not so much as a fir-tree, by climbing which, +a man might see to any of its extremities: and the consequence is, that +the shepherds are constantly in danger of losing their sheep, as one +loses sight of a vessel at sea, in the distance. To remedy this evil, +they have fallen upon a plan not more simple than ingenious; they all +walk on stilts, exactly similar to those with which our school-boys +amuse themselves; the only difference lying here, that whereas the +school-boys’ stilts are with us seldom raised above ten or twelve +inches from the ground, those of the French peasants are elevated to +the height of six or eight feet. + +When we first caught a glimpse of these figures, it was in the dusk of +the morning, and for awhile we were willing to persuade ourselves that +the haze had deceived us, by seeming to enlarge bodies beyond their +real dimensions. But when we looked at the trees, we saw them in their +own proper size, nor could we suppose that the atmosphere would have an +effect upon one object, which it had not upon another; yet there +appeared to be no other way of accounting for the phenomenon, unless +indeed this wild country were the parent of a race of giants, for the +men whom we saw resembled moving towers rather than mortals. I need not +observe that our astonishment was very great; nor, in was it much +diminished when, on a nearer approach, we discovered the truth, and +witnessed the agility with which they moved, and the ease with which, +aided by the poles which each carried in his hand, they would stoop to +the ground, pick up the article, and stand upright again. But if we +admired the skill of one or two individuals, our admiration rose to a +still higher pitch when we saw crowds of them together, all equally +skilful; till they informed us that the thing was not an amusement, but +universally practised for the purpose I have stated. + +Besides this, I know of nothing in the customs of this isolated people +at all worthy of notice, unless, indeed, it be their method of +supplying themselves with lights. Being completely cut off from the +rest of the world, it is not in their power, except when once or twice +a-year they travel to the nearest towns with their wool, to purchase +candles; and as they have no notion how these can be made, they +substitute in their room a lamp, fed with the turpentine extracted from +the fir-trees. The whole process is simple and primitive: to obtain the +turpentine they out a hole in the tree, and fasten a dish in it to +catch the sap as it oozes through; and as soon as the dish is filled, +they put a wick of cotton into the midst of the liquor, and burn it as +we do a lamp. The light is not indeed of the most brilliant nature, but +it is at least better than none; and as they have fir-trees in +abundance within their reach, there is no danger of their oil being +quickly exhausted. + +MARCH TO BORDEAUX + +In this manner was an entire week expended, each succeeding day +introducing us to a repetition of the same adventures, and a renewal of +the same scenery, which had amused us during the day before; nor was it +till the morning of the twenty-third that we at last began to emerge +from the forests, and to find ourselves once again in a more open +country. At first, however, it cannot be said that, with respect to +beauty, the change was greatly for the better. Upon the borders of the +deserts there is a little village called Le Barp, where we spent the +night of the twenty-second; from whence, till you arrive at a place +called Belle-Vue, the country is exactly in that state which land +assumes when nature has begun to lose ground, and art to gain it—when +the wild simplicity of the one is destroyed, and the rich luxuriance of +the other has not yet been superinduced. So far, therefore, we +proceeded, regretting, rather than rejoicing, that we had quitted the +woods; but no sooner had we attained that point, than there burst upon +us, all on a sudden, a prospect as gloriously fertile as ever delighted +the eyes of a weary traveller. + +BORDEAUX + +Instead of boundless forests of pine, the whole face of the country was +now covered with vineyards, interspersed, in the most exquisite and +tasteful manner, with corn-fields and meadows of the richest pasturage. +Nor was there any deficiency of timber; a well-wooded chateau, with its +lawn and plantations, here and there presenting itself, while quiet +hamlets and solitary cottages, scattered in great abundance over the +scene, gave to it an appearance of life and prosperity exceedingly +bewitching. Had there been but the addition of a fine river flowing +through the midst of it, and had the ground been somewhat more broken +into hill and dale, I should have pronounced it the most enchanting +prospect of the kind I had ever beheld; but, unfortunately, both these +were wanting. Though the effect of a first view, therefore, was +striking and delightful, and though to the last we could not help +acknowledging the richness of the land and its high state of +cultivation, its beauty soon began to pall. The fact is, that an +immense plain, however adorned by the labour of man, is not an object +upon which it is pleasing to gaze for any length of time; the eye +becomes wearied with the extent of its own stretch, and as there is no +boundary but the horizon, the imagination is left to picture a +continuance of the same plain, till it becomes as tired of fancying as +the eye is of looking. Besides, we were not long in discovering that +the vineyards were unworthy to be compared, in point of luxuriant +appearance, with those of Spain and the more southern regions of +France. In this neighbourhood the vine is not permitted to grow to a +greater height than three or four feet from the ground; whereas in +Spain, and on the borders, it climbs, like the hop-plant in England, to +the top of high poles, and hangs over from one row to another, in the +most graceful festoons. In spite of these objections, however, no one +could do otherwise than admit that the change we had experienced was +agreeable, and we continued to move on with greater alacrity, till it +was evident, from the increasing number of seats and villas, that we +were rapidly approaching the vicinity of Bordeaux. + +Nor was it long before the towers and buildings of that magnificent +city began to be discernible in the distance. Prompted by I know not +what impulse, we almost involuntarily quickened our pace at the sight, +and in a short time reached the suburbs, which like those of most +French towns, are composed of low houses, inhabited by the poorest and +meanest of the people. Here we halted for a few minutes to refresh the +men, when having again resumed the line of march, we advanced under a +triumphal arch, originally erected in honour of Napoleon, but now +inscribed with the name of the Duke d’Angouleme, and ornamented with +garlands of flowers. Passing under this, we proceeded along one or two +handsome streets, till we reached the Military Hospital, a large and +commodious structure fitted up for the reception of several thousands +of sick, where it was arranged that we should spend the night. + +The city of Bordeaux has been too often described, and is too well +known to my countrymen, in general, to render any particular account of +it at all necessary from me; and were the case otherwise, I confess +that my opportunities of examining it were not sufficient to authorize +my entering upon such an attempt. The whole extent of our sojourn was +only during the remainder of that day (and it was past noon before we +got in) and the ensuing night; a space of time which admitted of no +more than a hurried stroll through some of the principal streets, and a +hasty visit to such public buildings as are considered most worthy of +attention. The palace of the Duke d’Angouleme, the Military Hospital, +the Theatre, and the Cathedral, are all remarkably fine of their kind; +whilst the public gardens, the Exchange, and fashionable promenades, +are inferior only to those of Paris itself. + +MACAU + +I have said that our sojourn in Bordeaux was limited to the short space +of a few hours. We could have wished indeed to prolong it, but to wish +was needless, for at an early hour next morning we were again in +motion, and proceeded to an extensive common, near the village of +Macau, about three leagues from Bordeaux, where we found a considerable +force already assembled. Judging from the number of tents upon the +heath, I conceive that there could not be fewer than eight or ten +thousand men in that camp, the whole of whom, we naturally concluded, +were destined for the same service with ourselves. The sight was at +once pleasing and encouraging, because there could be no doubt that +such a force, ably commanded, would carry everything before it. + +In this situation we continued, without the occurrence of any incident +deserving of record, till the 27th, when an order arrived for the +officers to dispose of their horses without delay. This was necessarily +done at an enormous loss; and on the morning of the 28th, we set +forward towards the point of embarkation. But, alas! in the numbers +allotted for the trans-Atlantic war, we found ourselves grievously +disappointed, since, instead of the whole division, only two regiments, +neither of them surpassingly numerous, were directed to move; it was +not our business, however, to question the wisdom of any measure +adopted by our superiors; and we accordingly marched on in as high +spirits as if we had been followed by the entire Peninsular army. + +The remainder of our journey occupied two days, nor do I often remember +to have spent a similar space of time with greater satisfaction; our +route lay through some of the most fertile districts in France, passing +Chateau Margaux, famous for its wine, with other places not inferior to +it either in richness of soil or in beauty of prospect. The weather was +delightful, and the grapes, though not yet ripe, were hanging in heavy +bunches from the vines, giving promise of much wealth to come; the hay +season had commenced, and numerous groups of happy-looking peasants +were busy in every field; in short, it was a march upon which I shall +never look back without pleasure. + +LA MOE.—AT SEA + +The close of the first day’s progress brought us to a village called La +Moe, beautifully situated within view of the majestic waters of the +Garonne. Here, for the first time since we quitted Bayonne, were we +quartered upon the inhabitants—a measure which the loss of our tents +rendered necessary. They received us with so much frankness, and +treated us with so much civility, I had almost said kindness, that it +was not without a feeling of something like regret that we parted from +them. The second day carried us to Pauliac, an inconsiderable town upon +the banks of the same river, where we found boats ready to convey us to +the shipping, which lay at anchor to receive us. + +To embark the troops in these boats, and to huddle them on board two +dirty little transports, occupied some time, and the provoking part of +the business was, that all this trouble was to be gone through again. +The men-of-war in which we were to cross the Atlantic, could not come +up so high for want of water; and on this account it was that +transports were sent as passage-boats to carry us to them. But the wind +was foul, and blew so strong that the masters would not venture to +hoist a sail; so we were obliged to endure the misery of a crowd in a +small vessel for two nights and a day; nor was it till past noon on the +31st, that the regiment to which I was attached found itself finally +settled in His Majesty’s ship ———— of 64 guns. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +AT SEA + + +The land army, destined for the invasion of the United States, which +took shipping at this period in the Garonne, consisted but of three +battalions of infantry, the 4th, 44th, and 85th regiments; the two +former mustering each about eight hundred bayonets, the last not more +than six hundred. In addition to these, there were two officers of +engineers, a brigade of artillery, a detachment of sappers and miners, +a party of artillery drivers, with a due proportion of officers +belonging to the Medical and Commissariat departments. The whole +together could not be computed at more than two thousand five hundred +men, if indeed it amounted to so great a number; and was placed under +the command of Major-General Ross, a very gallant and experienced +officer. + +The fleet, again, consisted of the Royal Oak, of 74 guns, bearing the +flag of Rear-Admiral Malcolm; the Diadem and Dictator, two sixty-fours, +armed en flute; the Pomone, Menelaus, Trave, Weser, and Thames, +frigates, the three last armed in the same manner as the Diadem and +Dictator; the Meteor and Devastation, bomb-vessels; together with one +or two gun-brigs, making in all a squadron of eleven or twelve ships of +war, with several storeships and transports. + +On board the Royal Oak were embarked the General, with his staff, and +the artillery; the Trave and Weser were filled with the 4th; the 44th +were divided between the Dictator and the Thames, in the first of which +ships were also the engineers; the 85th occupied the Diadem; and the +rest were scattered through the fleet, partly in the men-of-war and +partly in the transports. + +As soon as the troops, with all their baggage, were finally settled in +the vessels allotted for their accommodation, the signal was made to +weigh; but the wind being adverse, and the navigation of the Garonne +far from simple, it could not be obeyed with safety. Every thing, +therefore, remained quiet till the evening of the 2nd of June, when the +gale moderating a little, the anchors were raised and the sails +hoisted. The tide was beginning to ebb when this was done, favoured by +which the ships drifted gradually on their course; but before long, the +breeze shifting, blew directly in their sterns, when they stood +gallantly to sea, clearing the river before dark; and, as there was no +lull during the whole of the night, by daybreak the coast of France was +not to be discerned. All was now one wide waste of waters, as far as +the eye could reach, bounded on every side by the distant horizon; a +scene which, though at first it must strike with awe and wonder a +person unaccustomed to it, soon becomes insipid, and even wearisome, +from its constant sameness. + +ST. MICHAEL’S + +The fair wind which carried us out of the Garonne continuing to blow +without any interruption till the 19th of June, it was that day +calculated, by consulting the log and taking observations, that the +Azores, or Western Islands, could not be very distant. Nor, as it +turned out, were these calculations incorrect; for, on ascending the +deck next morning, the first object that met our eyes was the high land +of St Michael’s rising, like a collection of blue clouds, out of the +water. With such a prospect before us our consternation may be guessed +at, when we found ourselves deserted by the breeze which had hitherto +so uniformly favoured us, and lying as motionless as logs, under the +influence of a dead calm. + +But the complaints to which we had begun to give utterance, were +speedily changed again into rejoicings, for before mid-day the breeze +once more freshened, and we approached every moment nearer and nearer +to the object of our wishes. As soon, too, as we contrived to double +the projecting headland which had attracted our attention in the +morning, our course became productive of much interest and pleasure. We +had neared the shore considerably, and were moving at a rate +sufficiently rapid to prevent further repining, and at the same time +slow enough to permit a distinct and calm survey of the beach, with the +numerous villages, seats, and convents that adorned it. + +The island of St. Michael is mountainous, even to the very edge of the +water, but the heights, though lofty, do not present a rugged or barren +appearance. Here and there, indeed, bare rocks push themselves into +notice, but in general the ascent is easy, and the hills are covered to +the tops with groves of orange-trees and beautiful green pasturage. +Like other Portuguese settlements, this island abounds in religious +houses, the founders of many of which do not appear to have been +deficient in taste when they pitched upon situations for building. +There was one of these in particular that struck me: it stood upon a +sort of platform or terrace, about half-way between the sea and the +summit of the mountain; above it were hanging woods, whether natural or +artificial I cannot say, broken in upon here and there by projecting +rocks; and round it were plantations of orange-trees loaded with fruit, +and interspersed with myrtles and other odoriferous shrubs. Being +greatly pleased with the mansion and the surrounding scenery, I +naturally inquired from the pilot (for one had already come off to us) +as to its use, and the quality of Its owner; and from him I learnt that +it was a convent, I forget of what order,—a piece of intelligence which +was soon confirmed by the sound of bells distinctly audible as we +passed. + +VILLA FRANCA. + +In this manner we continued to coast along, being seldom at a greater +distance than four or five miles from the land, till we came opposite +to a small town called Villa Franca. Here, as the wind threatened to +die away, several others and myself agreed to go onshore: a boat was +accordingly lowered, and we pushed off from the ship; but the operation +of landing did not prove to be altogether so simple as we had expected. +An immense reef of rocks, some under water, others barely above it, but +none distinguishable till we had almost run against them, opposed our +progress; and it was not without considerable difficulty, and the +assistance of the country people, who made signals to us from the +beach, that we contrived to discover a narrow channel leading up to the +strand. + +Having at length so far attained our wishes as to tread once more upon +firm ground, the next thing to be done was to find out some inn, or +house of public entertainment, where we might pass the night, a measure +which the increasing darkness rendered necessary. In this, however, we +were disappointed, the town of Villa Franca boasting of no such +convenience on any scale. But we were not on that account obliged to +bivouac; for the Alcalde, or mayor of the place, politely insisted upon +our accompanying him home, and entertained us with great hospitality; +nor, in truth, had we any cause to regret the unsuccessful issue of our +inquiries, since, in addition to the good cheer with which we were +presented, our host, being an intelligent person, did not fail to +render himself an agreeable companion; and what contributed in no +slight degree to the facility of our intercourse was, that though he +assured us he had never quitted St. Michael’s in his life, he spoke +English with the fluency of a native. Among other pieces of information +we learnt from him that the reef which impeded our progress towards the +land, had formerly been an island. It appeared, he affirmed, one +morning, in the most sudden and extraordinary manner, as if it had been +thrown up by an earthquake during the night, and having continued so +long above water as to embolden a single family of fishers to settle +upon it, it disappeared again as suddenly as it had come, leaving no +trace of its existence except the rocks which we had found so +troublesome. Whether there be truth in this story, I cannot pretend to +determine; and yet I see no reason to doubt the word of a man of +respectability, who could have no motive whatever for deceiving us. But +this was not all that we learnt from him respecting the reef. He +declared that previous to the appearance of the island, the water in +that very spot was unfathomable; and it was not till after it had sunk, +that a single rock stood in the way to prevent the largest ship of war +from anchoring within a stone’s throw of the beach. + +Finding our new acquaintance so civil and obliging, we naturally +informed him of our intention to proceed next morning to Ponto del +Gada, the principal town in St. Michael’s, and requested his assistance +in procuring some mode of conveyance; but we were startled by the +intelligence that nothing of the kind could be had, and that there were +not even horses or mules to be hired at any place nearer than the very +town whither we were going. This was rather an alarming piece of news, +for our boat had left us, the weather was too hot for walking, and the +distance to be travelled full fifteen miles. Had we been prudent enough +to detain our boat, the matter would have been easily managed, because +we might have sailed round to the point where the fleet was to anchor; +but this was no longer in our power, and being rather unwilling to +pursue our journey on foot, we were altogether at a loss upon what +course to determine. Whilst we thus hesitated, the Alcalde suggested +that if we would condescend to ride upon asses, he thought he could +obtain a sufficient number for our party; a proposal with which we +gladly closed, prudently determining that any mode of being carried was +better than walking. Leaving the arrangement of this affair, therefore, +to our obliging friend, we retired to rest upon clean comfortable +mattresses spread for us on the floor; and on waking in the morning, we +found that he had not been negligent in the charge assigned to him. Our +party consisted of five officers, with five servants, for whose +accommodation we found ten asses at the door, each attended by its +driver, who wielded a long pole tipped with an iron spike, for the +purpose of goading the animal whenever it should become lazy. + +It was not without a good deal of laughing that the cavalcade, after +bidding adieu to the hospitable Mayor, began to move forward. Our +asses, of no larger size than ordinary English donkeys, were +uncaparisoned, at least with bridles; and the saddles were neither more +nor less than the pack-saddles upon which goods are transported to +market. For our own comfort, therefore, we were obliged to sit a la +femelle, and having no command over the heads of our steeds, we were +content to be guided by the hallooing and punching of the drivers. In +spite, however, of these inconveniences, if so they may be called, I +shall never cease to congratulate myself on having been of the party, +because the ride proved to be one of the most agreeable I remember at +any time to have taken. + +The road from Villa Franca to Ponto del Gada quits the water’s edge, +and turns, for a little way, inland, carrying you through a region as +romantic and beautiful as can well be imagined. There are here no level +plains, no smooth paths over which a landau or tilbury might glide, +but, on the contrary, a rugged and stony track, sometimes leading down +the face of steep hills, sometimes scaling heights which at the +distance of a mile appear to be almost perpendicular, and sometimes +winding along the side of a cliff, and by the edge of a fearful +precipice. Except when you reach the summit of a mountain, the road is +in general shaded by the richest underwood, hanging over it from above; +but the whole aspect of the country is decidedly that of a volcanic +production: the rocks seem to have been cast up and torn asunder by +some prodigious violence, and hurled, by a force which nothing but a +volcano could possess, into the most grotesque and irregular shapes. It +is no uncommon thing to pass under a huge crag, leaning almost +horizontally over the road, and bedded in the earth by a foundation +apparently so slight, as to appear liable to fall every moment, +precipitating the enormous mass upon the luckless wretch beneath. Nay, +the very colour of the stones, and the quantity of what bears every +resemblance to vitrification, scattered about, all tend to induce the, +belief that the main island owes its formation to the same cause which +doubtless produced the smaller one that has now disappeared. + +ST. MICHAEL’S + +It is not, however, to be inferred from the above description that St. +Michael’s is nothing but a barren rock; far from it. There is, indeed, +in this direction at least, a fair proportion of that commodity; but +tracts of cultivated ground are not therefore wanting. I should not +certainly suppose that the soil was remarkably rich in any part of the +island; but it produces the fig, the orange-tree, and a grape from +which the inhabitants make very tolerable wine; and there is excellent +pasture for sheep, and a competent supply of grain. But that in which +the Azores, and St. Michael’s among the number, particularly excel, is +the extreme salubrity of the climate. Lying in nearly the same degree +of latitude with Lisbon, the intense heat which oppresses in that city +is here alleviated by refreshing sea-breezes; by which means, though I +believe there is no occasion at any season to complain of cold, it is +only in the very height of the dog-days, if then, that a person, not +actually engaged in violent exercise, is justified in complaining of +sultriness. + +The trade of St. Michael’s, as far as I could learn, is confined +exclusively to fruit: the fig and the orange are the staple +commodities; and being both very abundant, they are, of course, +proportionably cheap. Into the praise of a St. Michael’s orange it is +unnecessary for me to enter, because it is generally allowed to be the +best with which the English market is supplied; but of the excellence +of the St. Michael’s fig, I am not sure that my countrymen in general +are so much aware. It might be, that not having seen a fig for a +considerable lapse of time, my appetite was peculiarly sharpened +towards its good qualities, but it struck me that I never before tasted +any so highly flavoured or so delicate. Besides these, they sell to +vessels putting in, as we did, for water, some of the wine made in this +and the neighbouring islands; but the quantity thus disposed of must be +too inconsiderable to entitle it to be classed among the articles of +merchandise. + +I find, however, that I am entering upon subjects in which I am but +little versed, and digressing from my narrative. Let me return, then, +to self, that beloved idol of all travellers, and state that, after we +had ridden about six miles, the road, which had hitherto conducted us +along a narrow glen, where the vision was intercepted on both sides, +now carried us to the summit of a lofty mountain, from whence we +enjoyed the satisfaction of an extensive prospect, both of the sea and +of the interior. Looking towards the former, we beheld our own fleet +bearing down majestically upon Ponto del Gada, and fast approaching the +anchorage. Turning our eyes inland again, we were delighted with a view +of mountain and valley, rock and culture, wood and pasturage, +intermingled in the most exquisite degree of irregularity; but what +principally attracted our attention was a thick dark smoke rising +slowly from the summit of a high hill that bounded the prospect. Our +curiosity being excited by this phenomenon, we inquired from our guides +into its cause, and were informed that the mountain in question was a +volcano, and that at its base and along its sides were hot springs of +water, of a temperature sufficient to boil an egg in three minutes. +This piece of intelligence confirmed me in my former opinion relative +to the operative cause in the production of these islands; though, +indeed, had such evidence been wanting, I should have equally +concluded, either that they were thrown up, in their present form, from +the bottom of the sea, or at least that they were torn asunder from one +another by the force of fire. It must be confessed, however, that mine +is the opinion of one who has devoted little of his attention to +geology; but I would by all means advise the disciples of Werner to +come hither, if they desire further helps in the prosecution of that +very interesting and practically useful study. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +Descending the mountain, on which we had paused for a few minutes to +feast our eyes and satisfy our curiosity, we arrived at a small hamlet, +or rather a group of two or three hovels, as romantically situated as +it is possible for the imagination of man to conceive. They stood at +the further end of a sort of recess, formed by the hills, which are +here broken into a circular valley, cut off, to all appearance, from +the rest of the habitable world; behind them rose a towering crag, as +perpendicular as the drop of a plummet, from the top of which a little +rivulet came tumbling down, giving to the scene an appearance of the +most delightful coolness, and amusing the ear with the unceasing roar +of a waterfall. From the very face of the cliff, where there seemed to +be scarcely soil enough to nourish a thistle, numerous shrubs and dwarf +trees protruded themselves; whilst above it, and on every side of the +area, the hills were covered with wood, interrupted now and then by the +bald forehead of a blackened rock. In front of the hamlet again, there +was an opening sufficient to admit the most delicious glimpse of the +ocean; and through this the stream, after boiling for awhile in a +little basin, which it has excavated for itself out of what resembles +the foundation of the cliff, makes its way, brawling over a clear +pebbly bottom, till it joins the sea. + +This paragon of valleys burst upon us as such scenes, to be witnessed +with advantage, ought to do, without the slightest warning or +expectation. The road by which we approached it, being completely shut +in with wood, and winding considerably to aid the descent, brought us +out nearly at the gorge of the vale, so as to throw the hamlet, the +cliff, and the waterfall into the background; and as the whole was of +such extent as to be taken in at one glance, the effect was striking +beyond anything of the kind I ever witnessed. It is but natural to +suppose that we had no desire to hurry through such a glen as this; and +seeded not the additional motive which the weariness of our donkeys +afforded, to persuade us to a temporary halt. Giving the animals, +therefore, to the care of their owners, we dismounted, and went into +some of the cabins, the inhabitants of which appeared to be as simple +as the situation of their abodes had prepared us to expect. The men +were all goatherds, and the women seemed to be as idle as their +countrywomen in Portugal, sitting at the doors of their houses, +surrounded by groups of half-naked and filthy-looking children. If it +be fair to judge from their dress and the furniture of their hovels, +they were miserably poor, though perfectly contented; they did not ask +us for money, but astonished, I suppose, at the glaring colour of our +coats, they were very inquisitive to know who we were and whence we had +come. The English, the French, and the Portuguese seemed to be the only +three nations of whose existence they had any knowledge; and having +been assured, in answer to their first question, that we were not +French, they immediately added, “Then you must be English.” They did +not appear, however, to be without some degree of cunning, for as long +as we paused in replying to their query, they were silent; but no +sooner had we answered in the negative than they launched forth into +the most violent invectives against the French; convincing us that the +animosity of the mother-country towards its barbarous invaders was not +more implacable than that of the colonies. + +Having loitered away half an hour in this romantic spot, and +distributed a few dollars among its inhabitants, we remounted our +steeds and continued our journey. The remainder of the ride carried us +through scenery very similar to what we had already passed; the only +difference was, that the nearer we approached to Ponto del Gada the +more frequent became the spots of cultivation, the width and smoothness +of the road improving in proportion; till at last, when we had attained +the brow of an eminence, from whence the town with its port and bay +were distinguishable, we looked down upon an extensive valley, richly +covered with fields of standing corn. Quickening our pace, we soon +entered the capital of St. Michael’s, and were conducted by the drivers +to a good hotel, kept by an Englishwoman of the name of Currie, where +we found every accommodation which we could desire, at a very moderate +expense. + +PONTO DEL GADA + +As we had started at an early hour from Villa Franca, the clocks were +just striking ten when we alighted at Mrs. Currie’s hotel; +consequently, there was a long day yet before us, in which we might see +everything that was to be seen in the place. Having discharged our +muleteers, therefore, who seemed overjoyed at the receipt of one dollar +a-piece, swallowed a hasty breakfast, and made ourselves somewhat +comfortable, we lost no time in setting out upon a stroll of +examination and discovery. + +Ponto del Gada is, on the whole, rather a neat town, containing from +twelve to fourteen thousand inhabitants; but being built, especially in +the outskirts, without much regard to compactness, it covers more +ground than many places of double the amount in population. It stands +upon a little bay, formed by two projecting headlands, and can boast of +a tolerable harbour excellent roadstead. In its immediate vicinity the +country a more uniformly level than any I had yet observed; the vale +extending to the distance of four or five miles on every side, had +ending in an amphitheatre of low green hills, which resemble +appearance, the downs as they are seen from Eastbourne in Sussex. The +whole of this flat is in a state of high cultivation, being cleared, +perhaps too completely, of wood, and portioned off into different +fields and parks by hedges and stone walls. Judging from the appearance +of the crops, I should conceive that the soil was here of some depth, +as well as fertility, the whole valley being covered with wheat, +barley, and Indian corn. And in truth, if the aspect of the country +beyond the downs, where rocks tower one above another in rude and +barren grandeur, furnish a legitimate criterion by which to determine +respecting the general fertility of the island, I should be almost +tempted to believe that the whole industry of its people has been +expended upon this spot, simply because it was the only one capable of +rewarding it. I was assured, however, by the natives, that such is not +the case; and that, in the interior, and towards the opposite coast, +the rugged magnificence of mountain scenery gives place to a more +profitable though less picturesque champaign. + +The principal streets of Ponto del Gada are paved, and kept once cool +and clean by a. constant sprinkling of water, which is the business of +two or three men stationed at pumps within obtain distance of one +another, to scatter over them. Of the by-streets little can be said in +praise, they being, like those of other Portuguese towns, composed of +mean cottages, unpaved, and extremely dirty. There is, however, an air +of elegance given to the town, particularly when looked at from a +distance, by the intermixture of orange-groves among the houses; the +largest of these, wherever they happen to stand, being, in general, +surrounded by extensive gardens, all of which are abundantly stocked +with that graceful and odoriferous plant. Add to this the number of +towers and spires with which its numerous churches and convents are +supplied, and the first aspect of the whole may be conceived to be +extremely striking and imposing. + +As soon as we had taken a hurried survey of the streets, the next +object of attention was the religious houses. In these there was but +little to admire, the architecture being of the plainest kind, and even +the chapels as much wanting in ornament as can be imagined. There were, +indeed, in most of them some trifling attempts at carved work and +gilding upon the roof, a little stained glass, neither rich nor +ancient, in the windows, and a few tawdry pictures suspended above the +altars; but the general appearance was decidedly that of buildings +which did not even aim at beauty or grandeur. The monks we found a +good-natured, obliging set of men, very willing to give us any +information in their power; by one of whom we were fortunate enough to +be conducted through a convent of Augustine friars. Into their mode of +living it is not to be supposed that we could obtain much insight. It +seemed, however, to be less indolent than that of some convents which +we had visited in the old country, and approached proportionably nearer +to a college life among ourselves; though it must be admitted that the +fellows and undergraduates of Oxford and Cambridge have a better notion +of both comfort and elegance than the Augustine friars of St. +Michael’s. Of the nuns we of course saw nothing, excepting through the +grates. We found them full of curiosity, and eager to know as much as +they could learn of the world from which they were excluded; but quite +as fond of flirting as any set of young ladies at a boarding-school. It +was amusing to observe their mode of begging, for all the nuns in this +part of the world are licensed beggars. The younger and fairer members +of the sisterhood came to the grate first; chatted, sung, and presented +us with artificial flowers, and then retiring, made way for the old and +the ugly, who requested a little money for the good of our souls and +their bodies. To solicitations thus expressed it was impossible to turn +a deaf ear, and the consequence was, that we soon discovered it to be +quite as expensive an amusement to flirt with a nun, as with any other +belle in London or elsewhere. + +Besides the churches and convents, amounting in all to not fewer than +nine, there is a fort erected for the protection of the harbour, which +we likewise endeavoured to see, but were prevented by the sentinel at +the gate, who refused us admittance. The disappointment, however, was +not great, as it was easy to perceive, from its outward appearance, +that the fort could possess few points worthy of observation; and, +indeed, we attributed the reluctance evinced in admitting strangers to +its utter uselessness as a place of defence. + +To describe all this occupies but a small portion of time; but to see +it was the laborious employment of an entire day. Wearied out at length +with my exertions, and not feeling much rewarded, at least for the +latter part of my trouble, I returned in the evening to the hotel, +where, as the ships were still at anchor, taking on board water and +fresh provisions, I ventured to spend the night. + +Having thus discovered that there was little in the works of art, and a +great deal in those of nature, throughout St. Michael’s, to interest +the traveller, a friend and myself determined to set off next morning +on a visit to the volcano. With this design we ordered asses, for asses +are the only animals for hire, to be in readiness by daybreak; and +finding them in waiting at the time appointed, we took a guide with us +and pushed forward in the direction of the dark smoke. The mountain +with its crater being distinctly visible from Ponto del Gada, we took +it for granted the distance between the two places could not exceed +twelve or fourteen miles; but, on inquiring of our guide, we learned +that the nearest road would carry us at least twenty-seven miles from +the town. This was at once a startling and unpleasant piece of +intelligence, affecting our arrangements in no trifling degree. To +proceed was dangerous, because, mounted as we were, to go and return in +one day was impossible; and, if we remained so far from the shipping +during the night, the fleet might sail before we should be able to get +back. On the the other hand, to give up our design, and quit a country +where a volcano was to be seen, without seeing it, appeared rather a +mortifying prospect. After weighing for a few minutes the chances on +both sides, I shall not say with the utmost impartiality, curiosity +finally prevailed over apprehension; and, in order to prevent any +further repentance and consequent change of mind, we put our donkeys +into a gallop, and hurried on as fast as they could carry us. But the +speed of the asses and our own venturous determination proved, after +all, equally unavailing; for, on gaining the summit of the downs, and +looking back upon the fleet, we beheld, to our great sorrow, the signal +for sailing displayed at the topmasts of all the ships. Mortified at +our disappointment, and at the same time rejoicing that we had got no +farther on our journey, we were compelled to turn our asses’ heads, and +to retrace our steps towards Ponto del Gada, where we found everything +in the bustle and confusion of a re-embarkation. The beach was covered +with sailors, soldiers, bullocks, and casks of fresh water, hurrying, +and being hurried, indiscriminately into the boats which had arrived to +take them off. The townspeople were running about upon the strand, some +offering their skiffs to convey the officers on board the ships, some +helping to swing the bullocks into the barges, and others shouting and +hallooing apparently from the disinterested love of noise. In short, it +was a scene of great liveliness and bustle, perhaps rather too much so +to be agreeable. + +Seeing this universal eagerness to reach the fleet, we, like the rest, +threw ourselves into the first boat we could approach, and in a short +time found ourselves on board our own ship. But here a very tantalizing +piece of intelligence awaited us, for we learnt that, in spite of all +this show of preparation, the Admiral had not begun to weigh anchor; +and that no intention of moving was entertained, at soonest, before the +morrow. The opportunity, however, was lost; it could not be recovered, +and we were obliged to submit as cheerfully as we could, though it was +impossible to help regretting, what had at first been a source of +consolation, the circumstance of our having caught a view of the signal +at the time we did. But, as the event proved, all had turned out for +the best; for on the day following the signal was again repeated; and +by way of giving additional weight to it, the Admiral began to shake +loose his topsails. Nor did it prove, like that of yesterday, a false +alarm. By mid-day, the victualling and watering being complete, the +fleet immediately began to get under weigh; and, as the wind blew fair +and fresh, before dark the mountains of St. Michael’s could be seen +only like a thin vapour in the sky. Next morning nothing but the old +prospect of air and water met the gaze, as we stood our course, at a +rapid rate, towards Bermuda. + +AT SEA + +The voyage from St. Michael’s to Bermuda occupied the space of almost +an entire month, the first having been lost sight of on the 27th of +June, and it being the 24th of July before the low shores of the last +could be discerned. It was, however, a passage of more interest and +productive of more variety than that from Bordeaux to the Azores. We +had now arrived within the influence of the tropical climate, and were +not unfrequently amused with water-spouts, and other phenomena peculiar +to warm regions. The flying-fish, likewise, and its pursuer, the +dolphin, afforded at least something to look at; whilst many idle hours +were whiled away in attempts to catch or strike the latter with +harpoons. In these we were not always unsuccessful, consequently we +enjoyed several opportunities of watching the change of colour which +that fish undergoes whilst it is dying; and though the description +generally given of it is certainly indebted in some degree to the +imagination of voyagers, I must confess that the transitions from blue +to purple, and from purple to green, with all their intermediate +shades, are extremely beautiful. When the fish is in the water, it is +by no means remarkable for brilliancy of hue, and as soon as it is dead +it returns to its original colour—a dingy sea-green; but whilst it is +floundering and flapping upon the deck, it is impossible to say what is +its real appearance, so many and so different are the hues which it +assumes. Nor did we escape without the occasional occurrence of a less +agreeable species of variety; I mean squalls, thunder-storms, and +whirlwinds. As we approached Bermuda, indeed, these became too frequent +to excite any interest beyond an earnest desire that they would cease: +but while we were yet a good way off, and the incident rare, they were +witnessed with more of admiration than terror. + +Besides these amusements with which nature supplied us, we were not +backward in endeavouring to amuse ourselves. Being now pretty well +accustomed to the atmosphere of a ship, we began to consider ourselves +at home, and to give balls and other public entertainments through the +fleet. One of these I shall take leave to describe, because I am sure +it must interest from its novelty. On the 19th of July, at an early +hour in the morning, a signal was made from the Royal Oak, that the +Admiral would be happy to see the officers of the fleet on board his +ship that evening. Boats were accordingly sent off from the different +vessels, loaded with visitors; and on mounting the gangway, a stage, +with a green curtain before it, was discovered upon the quarter-deck. +The whole of the deck, from the poop to the mainmast, was hung round +with flags, so as to form a moderate-sized theatre; and the carronades +were removed from their port-holes, in order to make room for the +company. Lamps were suspended from all parts of the rigging and +shrouds, casting a brilliant light upon this singular playhouse; and +the crew, arrayed in their best attire, crowded the booms, yards, and +fore part of the deck; whilst the space from the mainmast to the foot +of the stage was set with benches for the more genteel part of the +audience. + +At seven o’clock the curtain drew up, and discovered a scene painted +with such taste as would not have disgraced any theatre in London. The +play was the ‘Apprentice,’ with the ‘Mayor of Garret’ as an afterpiece, +performed by the officers of the ship and of the artillery, and went +off in high style, applauded, as it deserved to be applauded, with the +loudest acclamations. The quarter-deck of a British line-of-battle ship +has often enough been a stage for the exhibition of bloody tragedies; +but to witness a comedy and a farce upon that stage, and in the middle +of the Atlantic Ocean, was delightful from its very singularity. When +the performance came to an end, the stage was knocked down, the seats +removed, and everything cleared for dancing. The music was excellent, +being composed of the band of the Royal Oak; and the ball was opened by +Admiral Malcolm and the Honourable Mrs. Mullens, in a country dance, +followed by as many couples as the space would permit; the greater +number of officers dancing, as necessity required, with one another. In +this amusement every person, from the Admiral and General, down to the +youngest ensign and midshipman, joined, laying aside for the time all +restraint or form of discipline; and having kept it up with great +spirit till considerably beyond midnight, a blue light was hoisted as a +signal for the different boats to come off for the strangers, and each +returned to his own ship highly gratified with the evening’s +entertainment. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +BERMUDA + + +By employing ourselves in this manner, and by keeping up what is +emphatically called a good heart, we contrived to pass out time +agreeably enough. As often as the weather would permit, and the fleet +lay well together, we made parties of pleasure to the different ships; +when the wind was too high, and the fleet too much scattered for such +proceedings, we remained at home, and amused ourselves in the best way +we could. Some of the captains, and ours among the number, were +possessed of very tolerable libraries, the doors of which they politely +threw open for the benefit of their military guests; and thus, by +reading, fishing, and boating, we were enabled to make head, with some +success, against the encroachments of ennui. It must be confessed, +however, that in spite of strenuous efforts to the contrary, that +determined enemy of all idle persons was beginning to gain ground upon +us, when, about mid-day on the 24th of July, a cry of land was heard +from the mast-head. All eyes were immediately turned in the direction +to which the sailor pointed, and as wind blew fair and moderately +fresh, no great length of time before the same object was +distinguishable from the deck. A signal was immediately hoisted for a +pilot, who lost no time in coming off to us; and before dark we were at +anchor opposite to the tanks in Bermuda. + +The appearance of Bermuda is altogether as different from that of St. +Michael’s as one thing can be from another. Whilst the last, with its +lofty mountains and bold shores, can be seen at the distance of many +leagues, a ship must be within a few miles of the first before the +slightest symptom of land is discernible. On this account it is that +mariners find greater difficulty in making Bermuda than perhaps any +other island or continent in the known world; the most experienced +seaman frequently sailing past it, and not a few suffering shipwreck +every year upon its numerous shoals and rocks. For not only is the land +itself low, and thus apt to be run against by vessels which may have +approached in stormy weather too near to put about, but for many miles +round, reefs of sunken rocks stretch out into the sea in every +direction; insomuch, that even the approach to the principal anchorage +is no more than a narrow channel between two reefs, in many places +scarcely exceeding a mile or a mile and a half in width. The +navigation, even in calm weather, is therefore attended with +considerable danger; the idea of which is greatly heightened by the +remarkable clearness of the water and the peculiar brightness of the +rocks. In some places this is so much the case, that the bottom may be +seen at the depth of six or seven fathoms; whilst the aspect of the +reefs which lie on each side, as you steer towards the anchorage, is +such, as almost to persuade you, contrary to the evidence of reason, +that a man might leap upon them from a boat without incurring the +danger of being wet above the knees. Yet these very reefs are seldom +covered with less than six, and sometimes with fourteen and fifteen +feet of water. + +Low as they are, the shores of Bermuda are nevertheless extremely +beautiful. They are covered with cedar, a tree which here, at least, +seldom exceeds the height of twenty feet, and from which, before the +sun has risen and after he has set, the land breeze comes loaded with +the most delicious perfume. Under the wood there grows a rich short +turf, apparently struggling to spread itself over the chalky rocks, of +which the entire island, or rather islands, seem to be composed; and, +as the houses of the better orders are chiefly built within reach of +the cool air from the water, they, with their little lawns and gardens, +produce a lively and pleasing effect. + +As darkness had come on before the ship could be properly moored, no +boats were permitted to leave her that night; but at an early hour next +morning I embraced the first opportunity of going on shore. To reach +St. George’s, the capital of the colony, you are obliged to row for +several miles up a narrow frith called the ferry, immediately on +entering which the scenery becomes in the highest degree picturesque. +Though still retaining its character of low, the ground on each side +looks as if it were broken into little swells, the whole of them +beautifully shaded with groves of cedar, and many of them crowned with +country-houses as white as the drifted snow. But the fact is, that this +appearance of hill and dale is owing to the prodigious number of +islands which compose the cluster; there being in all, according to +vulgar report, not fewer than three hundred and sixty-five, of which +the largest exceeds not seven or eight miles in diameter. Yet it is +only when you follow what at first you are inclined to mistake for a +creek or the mouth of a river, that you discover the absence of valleys +from between these hills; and even then you are more apt to fancy +yourself upon the bosom of a lake studded with islets, than steering +amid spots of earth which stand, each of them distinct, in the middle +of the Atlantic Ocean. + +In the town of St. George’s there is nothing to be seen at all worthy +of record. It consists of about fifty or sixty houses, the glare from +which, as they are all built of the chalk stone, is extremely dazzling +to the eyes. It is called the capital, because here the court-house +stands and the magisterial sittings are held; but in point of size, +and, as far as I could learn, in every other respect, it is greatly +inferior to Hamilton, another town at the opposite extremity of the +cluster, which I did not visit. A little way from St. George’s, and on +the summit of a bare rock, stand the barracks, fitted up for the +accommodation of a thousand men; and about a mile and a half beyond +them are the tanks, well worth the notice of travellers. The object of +this work is to catch and preserve the rain—a measure which the total +deficiency of fresh springs throughout the colony renders absolutely +necessary. There are, indeed, wells dug upon the beach, but the water +in these is nothing more than sea-water, filtered and rendered brackish +in making its way through the sand, and by no means fit to be used, at +least in any quantity. To supply this deficiency, the bad effects of +which were experienced in the unhealthiness of many of the crews upon +the American station, Government was induced to build these tanks; +consequently the water contained in them is the property of the king, +and none but king’s ships, with the troops in garrison, are permitted, +except in extreme cases, to be supplied from thence. + +The climate of Bermuda has been extolled by many, and among the rest by +Mr. Moore in his odes and epistles, as salubrious and delightful. It is +possible that he, and the rest of its eulogists, may have visited these +islands at a season of the year different from that in which I visited +them, but to me the heat was beyond measure oppressive. Lying, as they +do, under the influence of a vertical sun, and abounding in all +directions with cliffs of white chalk, it is obvious that the constant +reflection of the sun’s rays thereby occasioned must be quite +overpowering. If these panegyrists mean to say, that as long as you +contrive to keep in the shade, and take care not to stir abroad till +after sunset, you will find the Bermudas deserving of their title of +summer-islands, then I will agree with them; but I believe there is no +man who ever walked the street of St. George’s at noon, or any other +spot where the sun-beams could reach him, that did not consider the +heat as anything rather than temperate. + +But whatever may be thought of the climate, there can, I think, be but +one opinion as to the soil. It is generally admitted that there is no +more unproductive spot of earth upon the face of the deep than Bermuda. +The only animals which appear to thrive are the goat and the duck; the +cedar and a few calabash-trees are the only wood, and, except the most +common kinds of vegetables, such as cabbages, onions, and sweet +potatoes; I know of hardly another thing brought to perfection, even in +the gardens. The fruits which a stranger may meet with are no doubt +delicious, since among them he will find the shaddock and the +pine-apple; but for these, as well as for almost all their other +comforts and luxuries, the Bermudians are indebted to the continent of +America or to the West Indies. Whether this be owing to the natural +sterility of the soil, or to the extreme indolence of the inhabitants, +I cannot pretend to decide; though I should be inclined to suspect that +both were, in some degree, to blame; but its consequences are felt by +all visitors, in a very sensible manner, every article of living being +here sold for thrice its intrinsic value. That provisions should be +dear in this country cannot surprise, when it is considered that this +small colony is the general depot and place of resort for repairs and +stores to a large proportion of the British navy, scattered along the +coast of America; but, surely, if the natives were a little more +industrious, they might afford to sell their goods at a cheaper rate, +and at the same time secure an equal, if not a greater profit. But +their indolence is beyond all conception, and can be attributed only +to, what I believe is its real cause, the facility with which they +acquire fortunes, from men who are necessitated to give whatever they +demand for the most trifling article. The poorest and meanest freeman +upon the island never dreams of applying his own hand, or even his own +head, to the cultivation of the ground; and being abundantly supplied +with negro slaves, they leave everything, even the care of providing +necessaries for themselves, to the industry of that ill-used race. I +may perhaps be considered as expressing myself with too much severity +towards the Bermudians, but, in truth, I repeat only what I was told by +some of themselves; nor did I, from my own personal observation, +discover any cause to question the veracity of my informers. + +In the praise bestowed by Mr. Moore upon the beauty of these regions, I +do, however, most cordially join. There is something bewitchingly +pretty, for pretty is perhaps the most appropriate epithet to be used, +in every one of the many views which you may obtain from different +points. The low and elegant cedar, the green short turf, the frequent +recurrence of the white and dazzling rock, the continual rise and fall +of the numerous small islands, but above all, the constant +intermingling of land and water, seem more like a drawing of fairy land +than a reality. There is nothing grand, nothing imposing, or calculated +to excite any feeling bordering upon the awful, throughout the whole; +but it is soft, gentle, and exquisitely pleasing. + +Having spent the day at St. George’s, I returned on board to sleep; and +on the morrow removed, with my baggage, to a transport then lying at +anchor within the ferry, which was thenceforth to be my head-quarters. +Thither my friend Grey also removed, and as our ship was well stored, +and its commander civil and accommodating, we had no reason to complain +of any suffering consequent upon our change of residence. + +It will be readily believed that a very small portion of our time was +now wasted on board ship; for economy’s sake we usually slept there, +because at the inn the charge for beds, as well as for everything else, +was enormous; but all the hours of daylight were devoted to rowing +round the different islands, and climbing the different eminences, from +whence the most extensive prospects were to be obtained. Among other +curiosities, we were informed of two caves in one of the little isles, +distant about four or five miles from the place where we lay. Being +assured that they were highly deserving of notice, we determined to +visit them; and setting off one evening for that purpose, we reached +the spot which had been pointed out to us a little before dark. We +fastened the boat to the stump of a tree, and were proceeding towards +the caves, when a fine manly voice, singing one of the Irish melodies, +attracted our attention. Being rather curious to discover who, in this +extramundane place, had learnt to sing with so much taste, we followed +the direction of the sound, till we came upon a party sitting under the +shade of a tent, and, like ourselves, enjoying the cool of the evening; +on perceiving us, some of them came forward, and the satisfaction was +mutual when we recognised one another as old acquaintances. They urged +us to relinquish our design, and to partake of their good cheer, with +which, as the hour was late, we had small reluctance in complying; and +it was agreed, that instead of going on without proper guides, and at +so unseasonable a time, we should breakfast together at the same spot +in the morning, and proceed in a body to examine the caverns. Here, +therefore, we remained till the moon had risen, when we returned to our +boat, and sailed back to the ship. + +Next morning everything was prepared for the expedition, but a heavy +squall coming on, prevented us from setting out as early as we had +intended; as soon, however, as this blew over, we took to our boat, and +reached the place of rendezvous in time to share the remains of a good +breakfast which our friends had prepared for themselves and us. When +our meal was finished, we supplied ourselves with torches from some dry +branches of the calabash-tree, and, headed by a guide, moved towards +the mouth of the nearest and largest of the two caves. We descended +into this by a ladder of sixteen steps, and arrived upon a broad ledge +of rock, where we halted for a few minutes to light the torches, and +accustom our vision to the gloom; when, both of these ends being +attained, we advanced a few paces into the cave, and a sight of the +most indescribable sublimity burst upon us. The appearance was that of +a huge Gothic cathedral, having its roof supported upon pillars of +spar, moulded into the most regular shapes, and fluted and carved after +the most exact models of architecture. The roof itself was indeed too +lofty to be discerned, nor could the eye penetrate to anything like an +extremity, all beyond a certain extent being wrapped in the most +profound darkness; but the flashes of light which at intervals streamed +out, as the glare of the torches fell upon pieces of spar as clear as +crystal, and the deep echo of our own voices as we spoke, inspired us +with a feeling of awe bordering upon superstition. It is in such a +situation as this, that the poverty of the mightiest monument of human +art becomes conspicuous. The most magnificent churches and abbeys, with +their sculptured pillars and vaulted ceilings, were thought of as mean +in comparison of what was now before us; indeed, I for one could not +help imagining that these very churches and abbeys had been built in +humble imitation of this, which looked like a temple reared by some +beings more powerful than men. It seemed a shrine worthy of the genii +of old, while yet they were in the zenith of their glory, ere they had +been driven from their thrones and oracles of darkness by the light of +Christianity. + +As we moved onward we found the sides of the cave gradually narrow upon +us, and the roof become lower and lower. There was, however, a +continuance of the same fane-like appearance to the last, though +growing more and more contracted; till, finally, we were compelled to +advance one by one, and to stoop in order to prevent our heads from +coming into contact with the rock. We had proceeded as far as it was +possible to proceed with any degree of comfort, and were informed by +the guide that we were upwards of three hundred yards from the +entrance, when we found it expedient to wheel about, and to return to +the open air. But the effect of so sudden a change from darkness to +light was exceedingly disagreeable; insomuch that we hastened into the +smaller cave, as well for the purpose of deferring the moment of +suffering as to continue our search after the sublime. + +The entrance to this cavern is extremely dangerous, and not to be +ventured upon without either a trusty guide or a thorough knowledge of +the ground. After descending a ladder, not quite so deep as that which +leads into the larger cave, we arrived at the brink of a fearful chasm, +across which a flat stone, about two feet in width, was laid, +connecting the edges by a bridge four or five feet in length. To what +depth the chasm may reach, the guide could not inform us; but that it +is considerable we discovered by dropping a large stone, which we could +hear for some time as it dashed against the projecting edges of the +rock, and at length splashed with a tremendous echo into water. The man +maintained that the sea beat under the foundation of the island as far +as the spot where we now stood, and his story was rendered at least +probable by the number of pools of salt water which we met with in the +interior of the cave. + +After having visited the larger cavern, this certainly appeared to +disadvantage; though in truth it is in its dimensions only that the one +can be pronounced inferior to the other. The spar is equally clear and +proportionably as abundant in both: the pillars are quite as regularly +formed, and the lesser has an advantage over its rival in two or three +broken columns, which give to it the semblance of a temple in ruins. +There is also in this cave a strange propinquity of salt and fresh +water pools, the situation of two of which struck me as peculiarly +curious. They were divided from each other by a piece of rock not much +thicker than a man’s hand; and yet the water from the one tasted as if +it had been taken from the German Ocean, whilst that from the other was +as fresh and pleasant as possible. + +We had by this time fully gratified our curiosity, and once more +ascended to the world of sunshine, the splendour of which was at first +almost insupportable. By degrees, however, our eyes became accustomed +to the change and recovered their original tone, when we separated, +each party returning to its respective ship in high good humour with +the day’s employment. + +But to dine quietly on board was no longer endurable. A tent was +accordingly carried on shore, and having sought out the most shady and +agreeable nook within a moderate distance of the vessel, our dinner was +brought thither, and we spent the evening, as we had done the morning, +among the works of nature. Here we remained till a late hour, talking +over the adventures of the day, and occasionally attempting a blind +peep into futurity, till our friend the moon having risen, we again +pulled on board by her light, and lay down to dream of sparry domes and +enchanted temples. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +AMERICA + + +Some apology is due to the reader, whose attention has been thus long +withdrawn from other and more important matters, to follow the +adventures of an humble individual like myself. The fault, however, of +which I have been guilty may be at once repaired, when I inform him +that on our arrival at Bermuda we found Sir Alexander Cochrane, in the +Tonnant, of eighty guns, waiting to receive us, and to take the command +of the whole fleet. The secret of our destination likewise, which up to +that moment had been kept, transpired almost as soon as we cast anchor +off the island; and it was publicly rumoured that our next point of +debarkation would be somewhere on the shores of the Bay of Chesapeake. +Nor are these the only interesting public occurrences of which no +notice has as yet been taken. On the 4th of June our little army was +reinforced by the arrival of the 21st Fusiliers, a fine battalion, +mustering nine hundred bayonets, under the command of Colonel +Patterson. On the evening of the 29th a squadron of four frigates and +several transports appeared in the offing, which by mid-day on the day +following were all at anchor in the roads. They proved to be from the +Mediterranean, having the 21st, 29th, and 62nd Regiments on board, of +which the two latter were proceeding to join Sir George Prevost’s army +in Canada, whilst the former attached itself to that under the command +of General Ross. By this very acceptable reinforcement, our numbers +were increased to upwards of three thousand effective men, and a +greater confidence in themselves, as well as a better grounded hope of +success in whatever they might undertake, was at the same time given to +the troops. + +Having already dwelt sufficiently upon my own personal Adventures at +Bermuda, I shall not waste time by a particular detail of the various +preparations which during this interval were making throughout the +fleet. Stores of provisions, fresh water, ammunition, clothing, &c., +were provided, and magazines for the future supply of the expedition +established; when, on the 3rd of August, all things being complete, the +ships once more got under weigh, and stood towards America. + +THE CHESAPEAKE + +During the whole of this day the wind was light and unsteady, +consequently little progress was made, nor did the white rocks of +Bermuda disappear till darkness concealed them; but towards morning a +fresher and more favourable breeze springing up, the rest of the voyage +was performed in reasonable time, and without the occurrence of any +incident worthy of notice. The heat, indeed, became more and more +oppressive every day, and the irksomeness of renewed confinement was +more sensibly experienced from the long holiday which we had enjoyed on +shore; but, in other respects, everything returned to its former state, +till towards evening on the 14th, when a signal was made by the Admiral +that land was in sight. As yet, however, there was no appearance of it +from the deck of our transport, nor for a full half-hour could our +anxious gaze be rewarded by the slightest trace of what it sought; but +at the end of that time the low sandy point of Cape Charles began to +show itself, and we rejoiced in the prospect of a speedy release from +the ennui of a seafaring life. + +The coast of America, at least in this quarter, is universally low and +uninteresting; insomuch, that for some time before the land itself can +be discerned, forests of pines appear to rise, as it were, out of the +water. It is also dangerous from the numerous shoals and sandbanks +which run out in many places to a considerable extent into the sea, and +which are so formidable that no master of a vessel, unless he chance to +be particularly well acquainted with the navigation, will venture to +approach after dark. The fleet was accordingly anchored within a few +miles of the shore, but no sooner had the day begun to break than the +sails were again hoisted, and the ships, steering under the influence +of a leading wind, between the Capes Charles and Henry, stood in +gallant style up the Chesapeake. + +This noble bay is far too wide, and the land on each side too flat, to +permit any but an indistinct glimpse of the shore from the deck of a +vessel which keeps well towards the middle. On the present occasion we +could distinguish nothing, on either hand, except the tops of trees, +with occasionally a windmill or a lighthouse; but the view of our own +fleet was in truth so magnificent as to prevent any murmuring on that +account. Immediately on entering, we were joined by Admiral Cockburn +with three line-of-battle ships, several frigates, and a few sloops of +war and gun-brigs, by which means the squadron could now muster above +twenty vessels entitled to display the pendant, besides an equal if not +a greater number of victuallers and transports. Nor were we +strengthened by this addition in the naval part of the expedition +alone. On board these ships was embarked a powerful reinforcement for +the army, consisting of a battalion of seven hundred marines, a hundred +negroes lately armed and disciplined, and a division of marine +artillery, so that we could now calculate on landing a corps of at +least four thousand men. The spectacle was therefore as agreeable and +imposing as might be; because we could not help remembering that this +magnificent fleet was sailing in an enemy’s bay, and that it was filled +with troops for the invasion of that enemy’s country. Thus, like a +snowball, we had gathered as we went on, and from having set out a mere +handful of soldiers, were now become an army, formidable as well from +its numbers as its discipline. + +The shoals and sandbanks which abound on the outside of the bay, +continue to encumber the navigation after it is entered, and the fleet +was in consequence compelled to anchor every night. This proceeding +unavoidably occasioned much delay. The first day’s sail carried us only +to the mouth of the James river, and the second to the mouth of the +Potomac; but, on both occasions, we brought up at too great a distance +from the beach to permit perfect or distinct view of either of these +rivers. Opposite to the latter, indeed, we remained for a night and a +considerable part of the following day, and the sky being remarkably +clear, we saw something more of it than we had been able to see of the +other river. It appeared to be a fine piece of water making its way +through the centre of huge forests, and, though the current is in +reality strong, flowing on without any apparent motion. But it would +have been impossible to trace its course, even had we been nearer to +the shore, above a few miles, on account of its numerous windings, the +first of which, overshadowed as it is with wood, shuts it out from +further observation. By continuing here so long, we had begun to +conjecture that a landing somewhere on the banks of this river was in +contemplation. In this, however, we were deceived, for about one +o’clock the fleet was again under sail, and moving towards the +Patuxent, a river which empties itself into the bay, several miles +above the Potomac. + +THE PATUXENT. + +It was singular enough, that the ships had scarcely begun to lift their +anchors, when the sky, which had hitherto continued clear and serene, +became suddenly darkened and overcast with heavy clouds: and the water, +which before had been as smooth and bright as a mirror, began to rise +in black waves tipped with foam, though there was not a breath of air +to fill the sails. Hurricanes are, I believe, not unfrequent in this +part of the world, and it was expected that these changes in the sea +and sky foreboded the arrival of one; but they passed by without +producing any violent results, and when we brought up, which was done +in the evening, the clouds had dispersed, and the water was again like +a glassy lake. + +The 18th of August had now arrived, and as yet we had advanced no +farther than to the mouth of the Patuxent. There we lay, as we had done +the day before, anxiously expecting a breeze; till about noon, the wind +beginning to blow fair, the fleet entered the river and made its way +slowly and majestically against the stream. The voyage soon became +picturesque and interesting in the highest degree. Fields of Indian +corn, with meadows of the most luxuriant pasture, stretched along the +margin of the stream on either hand; whilst the neat wooden houses of +the settlers, all of them painted white, and surrounded with orchards +and gardens, presented a striking contrast to the boundless forests +which formed a background to the scene. Of the prodigious extent and +gloomy appearance of these forests, it is impossible for any language +to convey an adequate conception. There is nothing, at least nothing +which I have seen, in the Old World, at all resembling or to be +compared with them; and hemming in, as they do, on every side, the tiny +spots of cultivation, they certainly convey no very enlarged idea of +the power of human industry. The cleared fields on the banks of the +Patuxent, for example, could in no direction measure above half a mile +across,—in many places their breadth fell short of that, from the river +to the woods; and then all was one vast forest, through which no eye +could penetrate, nor any traveller venture to seek his way. We were, as +may be imagined, greatly taken by scenery so novel; and we continued to +gaze upon it with the liveliest interest, till our attention was drawn +away to other and more important matters. + +ST. BENEDICT’S. + +We had not proceeded many miles from the river’s mouth when a telegraph +from the Admiral gave orders for the troops to be in readiness to land +at a moment’s notice. Everything was forthwith put in a state of +forwardness; provisions for three days, that is to say, three pounds of +pork, with two pounds and a half of biscuit, were cooked and given to +the men; the cartouch-boxes were supplied with fresh ammunition, and +the arms and accoutrements handed out. The fleet, however, continued to +move on, without showing any inclination to bring to; till at length, +having ascended to the distance of ten leagues from the bay, the ships +of the line began to take the ground; and in a little while after, even +the frigates could proceed no farther. But by this time the sun had +set, and darkness was coming on; consequently, there was no +possibility, for that day, of getting the troops on shore without much +confusion, if not danger. All therefore remained quiet for the night, +with this exception, that the soldiers were removed from the large +ships into such as drew least water; which running up as high as +prudence would permit, under convoy of the gun-brigs and sloops of war, +there cast anchor. + +As soon as the dawn began to appear, on the morning of the 19th, there +was a general stir throughout the fleet. A gun-brig had already taken +her station within a hundred and fifty yards of a village called St. +Benedict’s, on the left bank of the river, where it was determined that +the disembarkation should be effected. Her broadside was turned towards +the shore, and her loaded with grape and round shot, were pointed at +the beach, to cover the landing of the boats; and being moored and aft +with spring-cables, she was altogether as manageable as if she had been +under sail. The rest of the ships were several miles lower down the +stream, some of them being aground the distance of four leagues from +this point; but the boats were quickly hoisted out from every one of +them, and the river as covered in a trice with a well-manned and +warlike flotilla. The disembarkation was conducted with the greatest +regularity and dispatch. Though the stream ran strong against them, and +some of them were obliged to row fourteen or fifteen miles backwards +and forwards, so strenuously did the sailors exert themselves, that by +three o’clock in the afternoon the whole army was landed, and occupied +a strong position about two miles above the village. + +From what I have stated respecting the gun-brig, it will be seen that +all things were in readiness to meet and repel opposition, should such +be offered. Her broadside being pointed directly towards the village, +whilst it hindered the enemy from bringing down troops in that +direction, gave to our people an opportunity of forming, and being able +to meet, in good order, whatever force might be posted to check their +advance up the country. Had a few pieces of artillery been mounted, +indeed, upon the high ground, afterwards taken possession of by us, +some execution might have been done upon the boats as they drew towards +the beach; but even that would have been trifling, because, unless they +had had leisure to heat their shot, no artillery, in the open country +could have long stood before the fire of even a gun-brig, armed as this +was for the occasion with long thirty-two pounders. Each boat-load of +soldiers, likewise, drew up the moment they stepped on shore, forming +line without any regard to companies or battalions; whilst parties were +instantly dispatched to reconnoitre, and to take possession of every +house, as well as to line every hedge, in front of the shore where +their comrades were arriving. But these preparations, though no more +than common prudence required, were unnecessary; since there was not +only no opposition to the landing, but, apparently, no enemy within +many miles of the place. + +So much time was unavoidably expended in establishing the different +regiments on the ground allotted to them, in bringing up the hospital +and commissariat stores, and arranging the materiel, that when all +things were ready, the day appeared too far spent to permit an advance +into a country, of the nature and military situation of which we were +of course ignorant. The afternoon was accordingly devoted to a proper +distribution of the force; which was divided into three brigades, in +the following order:— + +The first, or light brigade, consisted of the 85th, the light infantry +companies of the 4th, 21st, and 44th regiments, with the party of +disciplined negroes, and a company of marines, amounting in all to +about eleven hundred men; to the command of which Colonel Thornton, of +the 85th regiment, was appointed. + +The second brigade, composed of the 4th and 44th regiments, which +mustered together fourteen hundred and sixty bayonets, was intrusted to +the care of Colonel Brooke, of the 44th; and the third, made up of the +21st, and the battalion of marines, and equalling in number the second +brigade, was commanded by Colonel Patterson, of the 21st. The whole of +the infantry may, therefore, be estimated at four thousand and twenty +men. Besides these, there were landed about a hundred artillery-men, +and an equal number of drivers; but for want of horses to drag them, no +more than one six-pounder and two small three-pounder guns were brought +on shore. Except those belonging to the General and staff-officers, +there was not a single horse in the whole army. To have taken on shore +a large park of artillery would have been, under such circumstances, +absolute folly, indeed, the pieces which were actually landed, proved +in the end of very little service, and were drawn by seamen sent from +the different ships for the purpose. The sailors, thus employed, may be +rated at a hundred, and those occupied in carrying stores, ammunition, +and other necessaries, at a hundred more; and thus, by adding these, +together with fifty sappers and miners, to the above amount, the whole +number of men landed at St. Benedict’s may be computed at four thousand +five hundred. + +This little army was posted upon a height which rises at the distance +of two miles from the river. In front was a valley, cultivated for some +way, and intersected with orchards; at the further extremity of which +the advanced piquets took their ground; pushing forward a chain of +sentinels to the very skirts of the forest. The right of the position +was protected by a farm-house with its enclosure and outbuildings, and +the left rested upon the edge of the hill, or rather mound, which there +abruptly ended. On the brow of the hill, and about the centre of the +line were placed the cannon, ready loaded, and having lighted fusees +beside them; whilst the infantry bivouacked immediately under the +ridge, or rather upon the slope of the hill which looked towards the +shipping, in order to prevent their disposition from being seen by the +enemy; should they come down to attack. But as we were now in a country +where we could not calculate upon being safe in rear, any more than in +front, the chain of piquets was carried round both flanks, and so +arranged, that no attempt could be made to get between the army and the +fleet, without due notice, and time given to oppose and prevent it. +Everything, in short, was arranged with the utmost skill, and every +chance of surprise provided against; but the night passed in quiet, nor +was an opportunity afforded of evincing the utility of the very +soldier-like dispositions which had been made. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +NOTTINGHAM + + +Next morning the troops, as is customary during a state of active +warfare, were under arms an hour before daylight, and remained in +position till after the sun had risen. It was then confidently expected +that the column would be put in motion, though in what direction it was +to proceed, or what was the object of the descent, none but the General +himself appeared to know. A rumour, indeed, prevailed, that a flotilla +of gun-boats upon the Patuxent, commanded by the American Commodore +Barney, was the point of attack; and that while the land force advanced +up the river to prevent their retreat, armed boats from the fleet were +to engage them in front. That such was in reality the primary object of +the landing, I have every reason to believe, though circumstances +afterwards occurred to bring about a change in the plan of operations. +Into these, however, I shall not now enter, because they are in no way, +connected with the present stage of my narrative, but shall merely +observe, that in their expectations of an immediate advance the troops +were disappointed. Whether it was that the arrangements had not been +completed, or that intelligence respecting the state of the country and +the enemy’s preparations was wanting, I do not know; but the regiments +returned to the ground which they had occupied during the night, and +everything resumed the same face which it had worn on the evening +before. + +In this state affairs continued till four o’clock in the afternoon, +when the General suddenly made his appearance in the camp, the bugles +sounded, and the regiments formed in order for marching. Nor did many +minutes elapse before the word was given, and the army began to move, +taking the direction of Nottingham, a town situated on the river, where +it was understood that the flotilla lay at anchor. The march was +conducted with the same caution and good order that had marked the +choice of ground for encamping and the disposition of the troops in +position. The advanced-guard, consisting of three companies of +infantry, led the way. These, however, were preceded by a section of +twenty men, moving before them at the distance of a hundred yards; and +even these twenty were but the followers of two files, sent forward to +prevent surprise, and to give warning of the approach of the enemy. +Parallel with the head of the three companies marched the flank +patrols; parties of forty or fifty men, which, extending in files from +each side of the road, swept the woods and fields to the distance of +nearly half a mile. After the advanced guard, leaving an interval of a +hundred or a hundred and fifty yards, came the light brigade; which, as +well as the advance, sent out flankers to secure itself against +ambuscades. Next to it, again, marched the second brigade, moving +steadily on, and leaving the skirmishing and reconnoitring to those in +front; then came the artillery, consisting, as I have already stated, +of one six and two three-pounder guns, drawn by seamen; and last of all +came the third brigade, leaving a detachment at the same distance from +the rear of the column, as the advanced guard was from its front. + +In moving through an enemy’s country, the journeys of an army will, +except under particular circumstances, be regulated by the nature of +the ground over which it passes: thus, though eight, ten, or even +twelve miles may be considered as a short day’s march, yet if at the +end of that space an advantageous position occur (that is, a piece of +ground well defended by natural or accidental barriers, and at the same +time calculated for the operations of that species of force of which +the army may be composed), it would be the height of imprudence to push +forward, merely because a greater extent of country might be traversed +without fatiguing the troops. On the other hand, should an army have +proceeded eighteen, twenty, or even twenty-five miles, without the +occurrence of any such position, nothing except the prospect of losing +a large proportion of his men from weariness ought to induce a general +to stop, until he has reached some spot at least more tenable than the +rest. Our march to-day was, upon this principle, extremely short, the +troops halting when they had arrived at a rising ground distant not +more than six miles from the point whence they set out; and having +stationed the piquets, planted the sentinels, and made such other +arrangements as the case required, fires were lighted, and the men were +suffered to lie down. + +It may seem strange, but it is nevertheless true, that during this +short march of six miles a greater number of soldiers dropped out of +the ranks, and fell behind from fatigue, than I recollect to have seen +in any march in the Peninsula of thrice its duration. The fact is that +the men, from having been so long cooped up in ships, and unused to +carry their baggage and arms, were become relaxed and enervated to a +degree altogether unnatural; and this, added to the extreme sultriness +of the day, which exceeded anything we had yet experienced, quite +overpowered them. The load which they carried, likewise, was far from +trifling, since, independent of their arms and sixty rounds of +ball-cartridge, each man bore upon his back a knapsack, containing +shirts, shoes, stockings, &c., a blanket, a haversack, with provisions +for three days, and a canteen or wooden keg filled with water. Under +these circumstances, the occurrence of the position was extremely +fortunate, since not only would the speedy failure of light have +compelled a halt, whether the ground chanced to be favourable or the +reverse, but even before darkness had come on scarcely two-thirds of +the soldiers would have been found in their places. + +The ground upon which we bivouacked, though not remarkable for its +strength, was precisely such as might tempt a General to halt, who +found his men weary and in danger of being benighted. It was a gentle +eminence, fronted by an open and cultivated country, and crowned with +two or three houses, having barns and walled gardens attached to them. +Neither flank could be said to rest upon any point peculiarly well +defended, but they were not exposed; because, by extending or +condensing the line, almost any one of these houses might be converted +into a protecting redoubt. The outposts, again, were so far arranged +differently from those of yesterday, that, instead of covering only the +front and the two extremities, they extended completely round the +encampment, enclosing the entire army within a connected chain of +sentinels; and precluding the possibility of even a single individual +making his way within the lines unperceived. + +These precautions were, however, like those of the preceding day, +unnecessary; no enemy making his appearance, even to reconnoitre: and +yet it cannot be said that the night was passed in uninterrupted quiet, +for the troops had scarcely lain down when they were disturbed by a +tremendous storm of thunder and lightning, accompanied by a heavy fall +of rain. The effect of the lightning, as it glanced for a moment upon +the bivouac, and displayed the firelocks piled in regular order, and +the men stretched like so many corpses beside them, was extremely fine. +The effect of the rain, however, was not so agreeable, for, being +perfectly destitute of shelter, we were speedily wet to the skin; and +the remainder of our resting-time was rendered thereby the reverse of +comfortable. But the feeling of fretfulness, natural on such an +occasion, lasted no longer than till the day dawned, and the line of +march was again formed; when their former good-humour returning, and +seasoned in some degree by the fatigues of yesterday, the troops moved +on in excellent order and in the highest spirits. + +The route to-day was different, in many respects, from that of +yesterday. In the first place, we had now got beyond the stretch of +cultivation, and were proceeding through forests of immeasurable +extent; this, of itself, gave a very different aspect to all around, +because hitherto we had seen houses and fields of corn on each side of +the road, and now we could discover nothing but wild savannahs, +apparently untenanted by a single human being. In the next place, we +learnt from some of the country people, who had been impressed as +guides into our service, that numerous detached bodies of riflemen lay +in ambush among the thickets; and the very expectation of having +something to do, created a degree of excitement which, till now, we had +not experienced. In consequence of that information, the flank patrols +were strengthened and commanded to extend to a greater distance; the +advanced guard marched at a greater interval from the head of the +column, and the whole army moved forward with more caution and +circumspection than had hitherto been used. + +In the course of this day’s march a little adventure occurred to +myself, which, in the illiberality of my heart, I could not but regard +as strikingly characteristic of the character of the people to whom we +were now opposed, and which, as at the time it had something in it +truly comical, I cannot resist the inclination of repeating, though +aware that its title to drollery must in a great measure be lost in the +relation. Having been informed that in a certain part of the forest a +company of riflemen had passed the night, I took with me a party of +soldiers, and proceeded in the direction pointed out, with the hope of +surprising them. On reaching the place, I found that they had retired, +but I thought I could perceive something like the glitter of arms a +little farther towards the middle of the wood. Sending several files of +soldiers in different directions, I contrived to surround the spot, and +then moving forward, I beheld two men dressed in black coats, and armed +with bright firelocks and bayonets, sitting under a tree; as soon as +they observed me, they started up and took to their heels, but being +hemmed in on all sides, they quickly perceived that to escape was +impossible, and accordingly stood still. I hastened towards them, and +having arrived within a few paces of where they stood, I heard the one +say to the other, with a look of the most perfect simplicity, “Stop, +John, till the gentlemen pass.” There was something so ludicrous in +this speech, and in the cast of countenance which accompanied it, that +I could not help laughing aloud; nor was my mirth diminished by their +attempts to persuade me that they were quiet country people, come out +for no other purpose than to shoot squirrels. When I desired to know +whether they carried bayonets to charge the squirrels, as well as +muskets to shoot them, they were rather at a loss for a reply; but they +grumbled exceedingly when they found themselves prisoners, and +conducted as such to the column. + +But to return to the principal narrative. The army had now advanced +within a few miles of Nottingham, and the men were beginning to look +forward with some anxiety to a halt; whilst as yet nothing beyond the +capture of a few stragglers had occurred to confirm the rumours which, +in the morning, and during the whole of the march, had occasioned so +much more circumspection than appeared to be requisite. The day was +likewise far spent, and, as was to be expected, the ranks were +beginning to be less carefully preserved, when a smart firing in the +wood upon the right of the road gave new life and energy to the +soldiers. It was now confidently expected that the enemy would make a +stand. The column closed its order, ready to wheel into line in a +moment, and everything was on the qui vive: but it proved to be no more +than a rencounter between a party of American riflemen and the flank +patrol. After firing a few shots, the enemy gave way, and our main +body, which had continued to move on during the skirmish, came in +without the slightest opposition to the town of Nottingham. + +We found this place (a town or large village, capable of containing +from a thousand to fifteen hundred inhabitants) completely deserted. +Not an individual was to be seen in the streets, or remained in the +houses; whilst the appearance of the furniture, &c., in some places the +very bread left in the ovens, showed that it had been evacuated in +great haste, and immediately before our arrival. The town itself stands +upon the banks of the Patuxent, and consists of four short streets, two +running parallel with the river, and two others crossing them at right +angles, The houses are not such as indicate the existence of much +wealth or grandeur among the owners, being in general built of wood, +and little superior to cottages; but around the village are others of a +far better description, which convey the idea of good substantial +farm-houses, a species of mansion very common in the United States. For +several miles in every direction the country was in a high state of +cultivation; though, instead of the maize and wheat which we had +hitherto seen, the fields were covered with an abundant and luxuriant +crop of tobacco. This plant seems, indeed, to be at all times the +staple commodity of that district; for, besides what was growing and +unripe, we found numerous barns filled with the remains of last year’s +crop; the whole of which was, of course, seized in the name of His +Majesty King George the Third. But in the main object of our pursuit we +were disappointed. The flotilla, which had been stationed opposite to +Nottingham, retired, on our approach, higher up the stream; and we were +consequently in the situation of a huntsman who sees his hounds at +fault, and has every reason to apprehend that his game will escape. + +MARLBOROUGH + +In this posture the army continued during the night, having its right +defended by the river, and its left extending considerably beyond the +town, and secured, as usual, by a connected chain of outposts; nor was +it put in motion, as had been done the day before, as soon as there was +sufficient light to distinguish objects. There seemed, indeed, to be +something like hesitation as to the course to be pursued,—whether to +follow the gun-boats, or to return to the shipping; but, at last, the +former proceeding was resolved upon, and the column set forward about +eight o’clock, in the direction of Marlborough, another village, about +ten miles beyond Nottingham. The road by which we travelled, as well +to-day as during the whole of the excursion, was remarkably good; in +some places rather heavy, from being cut through a sandy soil, but in +general hard, dusty, and, to use an expressive phrase, having a sound +bottom. Running, as it did for the most part, through the heart of +thick forests, it was also well sheltered from the rays of the sun; a +circumstance which, in a climate like this, is of no slight importance. +To-day, our whole journey was of this description, nor did we reach a +single cultivated spot till we approached the vicinity of Marlborough; +when we found ourselves in a country not more fertile than beautiful. +The ground, which had been hitherto perfectly flat, was now broken into +the most graceful swells, generally cleared of wood to within a short +space of the summits, and then crowned with hoar and venerable forests. +The village itself lies in a valley formed by two green hills; the +distance from the base of one hill to the base of the other may be +about two miles, the whole of which was laid out in fields of corn, +hay, and tobacco; whilst the slopes themselves were covered with sheep, +for whose support they furnished ample means. But Marlborough is not, +like an English village, compact, and consisting of one or two lanes +the houses are scattered over the plain, and along the sides of the +hills, at considerable intervals from one another, and are all +surrounded by orchards and gardens, abounding in peaches and other +fruits of the most delicious flavour. To add to the beauty of the +place, a small rivulet makes its way through the bottom, and winding +round the foot of one of these ridges, falls into the Patuxent, which +flows at its back. + +During our progress to-day the same caution was observed which had been +practised yesterday. Nor was it altogether unnecessary, several bodies +of the enemy’s horse occasionally showing themselves, and what appeared +to be the rear-guard of a column of infantry evacuating Marlborough, as +our advance entered. + +MARCH TO WASHINGTON. + +There was, however, little or no skirmishing, and we were allowed to +remain in the village all night without molestation. But if we were not +harassed, we were at least startled on the march by several heavy +explosions. The cause of these we were at first unable to discover; but +we soon learnt that they were occasioned by the blowing up of the very +squadron of which we were in pursuit, and which Commodore Barney, +perceiving the impossibility of preserving, prudently destroyed, in +order to prevent its falling into our hands. + +In Marlborough we remained not only during the night, but till past +noon on the following day. The hesitation which had caused the loss of +a few hours at Nottingham again interfered, and produced a delay which +might have been attended with serious consequences. At length, however, +orders were given to form, and we quitted Marlborough about two in the +afternoon, taking the road to Washington. During this day’s march there +was more skirmishing than had yet occurred. We had scarcely got above +three miles from the village, when the advanced guard fell in with a +party of riflemen, who maintained a sharp contest before they gave way. +The column, however, continued to move on without molestation, till +arriving at a point where two roads meet, the one leading to +Washington, the other to Alexandria, a strong body of troops, with some +artillery, were observed upon the slope of a height opposite. The +capture of Washington was now the avowed object of our invasion; but +the General, like an experienced officer, was desirous of keeping his +enemy in the dark as to his plan of operations. Whilst the advanced +guard, therefore, reinforced by two additional companies, marched +directly forward to dislodge the party from the heights, the rest of +the army wheeled to the left, taking the road which leads, not to +Washington, but to Alexandria. These movements were not lost upon the +enemy, who, observing by the dust in what direction the main body had +filed off, immediately began to retreat, without waiting for the +approach of the detachment sent against them. As they ascended the +hill, however, they made a show of halting and forming a line. Our men +moved steadily on in column, covered by one company in extended order +along the front; but the enemy, having merely thrown a few round shot +with great precision among the skirmishers, broke once again into +marching order, and were quickly hid by the rising ground. As soon as +they had disappeared, the advance halted; and having remained for about +an hour on a little hill to watch their motions, turned to the left, +and followed the rest of the army, which they found advantageously +posted at a place called Woodyard. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + +I had almost forgotten to state that, from the first moment of our +landing, the want of cavalry, so useful in obtaining information and +reconnoitring the open country, was very sensibly felt. To remedy this +evil, as far as it could by such means be remedied, orders had been +issued to catch and bring in all the horses that were found in the +fields or stables of any houses along the road; and these orders being +punctually obeyed, there were now fifty or sixty in the camp. Upon +these some of the artillery-drivers were mounted, and the command of +the troop being given to an officer of experience, it was found of +great service during the remainder of the march. + +The advanced guard having joined the main body, the whole army, with +the exception of a party which had been sent to the rear to bring up a +convoy of provisions, was now bivouacked upon a rising ground, well +defended by hedge-rows and thickets. The night, however, was not spent +in as much quietness as usual. It was late before the troops got to +their ground, consequently the piquets, for want of light, could not be +posted in their customary good order, neither had there been time to +examine the country in the neighbourhood of the position. The outposts +were, therefore, kept in a state of constant anxiety by the frequent +appearance of small parties of the enemy, who hovered about, probably +with the design of cutting off stragglers, or perhaps of surprising, if +they could, some of the piquets themselves. But whatever their +intentions might be, the vigilance of the sentries contrived to render +them abortive; nor did anything occur during the night productive of +serious alarm; and the following day, being joined by the convoy which +came up in safety, the column was again in motion, hastening across the +country into the highroad, which had been deserted for no other purpose +than to mislead the Americans. + +Having started on the 24th at an early hour, our march was for some +time both cool and agreeable. The road—if road it could be called—wound +for the first five miles through the heart of an immense forest, and +being, in every sense of the word, a by-path, was completely +overshadowed by projecting branches of trees, so closely interwoven, as +to prevent a single sunbeam from making its way, even at noon, within +the arch. We continued to move on, therefore, long after the sun had +risen, without being sensible that there was not a cloud in the sky to +screen us from his influence; whilst a heavy moisture continually +emitted from the grass and weeds on both sides of us, produced a +coolness which, had it been less confined, would have proved extremely +pleasant. So far, then, we proceeded without experiencing any other +inconvenience than what was produced by the damp and fetid atmosphere +which we breathed; but no sooner had we begun to emerge from the woods +and to enter the open country, than an overpowering change was +perceived. The sun, from which we had been hitherto defended, now beat +upon us in full force; and the dust rising in thick masses from under +our feet, without a breath of air to disperse it, flew directly into +our faces, occasioning the greatest inconvenience both to the eyes and +respiration. I have stated this at length, because I do not recollect a +period of my military life during which I suffered more severely from +heat and fatigue; and as a journey of a few miles, under such +circumstances, tells more than one of thrice the distance in a cool day +and along a firm wintry road, it is not surprising that before many +hours had elapsed numbers of men began to fall behind from absolute +inability to keep up. + +Yet, in spite of all this, there was that in to-day’s march which +rendered it infinitely more interesting than any we bad performed since +the landing. We had learnt, from various quarters, that the enemy was +concentrating his forces for the purpose of hazarding a battle in +defence of his capital. The truth of these rumours we had no cause to +doubt, confirmed as they were by what we had ourselves witnessed only +the evening before; indeed the aspect of various fields on each side of +the high road (which we had now regained), where smoking ashes, bundles +of straw, and remnants of broken victuals were scattered about, +indicated that considerable bodies of troops had passed the night in +this neighbourhood. The appearance of the road itself, likewise, +imprinted as it was with fresh marks of many feet and hoofs, proved +that these troops could be no great way before us; whilst our very +proximity to Washington, being now distant from it not more than ten or +twelve miles, all tended to assure us that we should at least see an +American army before dark. + +It was now that we experienced the great usefulness of our badly +mounted troopers, or as they were called by the private soldiers, our +Cossacks. The country, from being extremely close, had become open on +every side to a considerable extent, although thick groves, instead of +hedges, frequently separated one field from another. This was exactly +the ground on which cavalry could act with advantage; because they +might lie in ambush behind these groves, totally unperceived, and when +an opportunity offered, charge the column, before it had time to +prepare for their reception. There were one or two places, indeed, +where such events were confidently anticipated; whole rows of paling +having been pulled up from the side of the road, and open spaces left, +through which several squadrons of horse might gallop; and the +consequence was that every man held his breath in expectation, and +prepared himself to form square in a moment. It was here that the +mounted drivers became peculiarly useful. They were divided into small +parties of six or eight, and sent out in different directions to +reconnoitre, two of them generally taking post at every suspicious +corner, that one might give notice to the column, whilst the other +watched the motions of an enemy. + +It so happened that these precautions were unnecessary, for whatever +might be the strength of the Americans in cavalry, their General did +not think fit to employ it in harassing our march. But the very +knowledge that every danger was provided against, and that they could +not be attacked without having time to make ready, gave to the soldiers +a degree of steady confidence which they would otherwise have wanted; +and the want of which, had the case been different, might have been +productive of disorder at a moment when good order was of vital +importance. + +BLADENSBURG. + +We had now proceeded about nine miles, during the last four of which +the sun’s rays had beat continually upon us, and we had inhaled almost +as great a quantity of dust as of air. Numbers of men had already +fallen to the rear, and many more could with difficulty keep up; +consequently, if we pushed on much farther without resting, the chances +were that at least one half of the army would be left behind. To +prevent this from happening, and to give time for the stragglers to +overtake the column, a halt was determined upon, and being led forward +to a spot of ground well wooded, and watered by a stream which crossed +the road, the troops were ordered to refresh themselves. Perhaps no +halt ever arrived more seasonably than this, or bid fair to be +productive of more beneficial effects; yet so oppressive was the heat, +that we had not resumed our march above an hour, when the banks by the +way side were again covered with stragglers; some of the finest and +stoutest men in the army being literally unable to go on. + +The hour of noon was approaching, when a heavy cloud of dust, +apparently not more than two or three miles distant, attracted our +attention. From whence it originated there was little difficulty in +guessing, nor did many minutes expire before surmise was changed into +certainty: for on turning a sudden angle in the road, and passing a +small plantation, which obstructed the vision towards the left, the +British and American armies became visible to one another. The position +occupied by the latter was one of great strength and commanding +attitude. They were drawn up in three lines upon the brow of a hill, +having their front and left flank covered by a branch of the Potomac, +and their right resting upon a thick wood and a deep ravine. This +river, which may be about the breadth of the Isis at Oxford, flowed +between the heights occupied by the American forces and the little town +of Bladensburg. Across it was thrown a narrow bridge, extending from +the chief street in that town to the continuation of the road, which +passed through the very centre of their position; and its right bank +(the bank above which they were drawn up) was covered with a narrow +stripe of willows and larch trees, whilst the left was altogether bare, +low, and exposed. Such was the general aspect of their position as at +the first glance it presented itself; of which I must endeavour to give +a more detailed account, that my description of the battle may be in +some degree intelligible. + +I have said that the right bank of the Potomac was covered with a +narrow stripe of willow and larch trees. Here the Americans had +stationed strong bodies of riflemen, who, in skirmishing order, covered +the whole front of their army. Behind this plantation, again, the +fields were open and clear, intersected, at certain distances, by rows +of high and strong palings. About the middle of the ascent, and in the +rear of one of these rows, stood the first line, composed entirely of +infantry; at a proper interval from this, and in a similar situation, +stood the second line; while the third, or reserve, was posted within +the skirts of a wood, which crowned the heights. The artillery, again, +of which they had twenty pieces in the field, was thus arranged on the +high road, and commanding the bridge, stood two heavy guns; and four +more, two on each side of the road, swept partly in the same direction, +and partly down the whole of the slope into the streets of Bladensburg. +The rest were scattered, with no great judgment, along the second line +of infantry, occupying different spaces between the right of one +regiment and the left of another; whilst the cavalry showed itself in +one mass, within a stubble field, near the extreme left of the +position. Such was the nature of the ground which they occupied, and +the formidable posture in which they waited our approach; amounting, by +their own account, to nine thousand men, a number exactly doubling that +of the force which was to attack them. + +In the mean time, our column continued to advance in the same order +which it had hitherto preserved. The road, having conducted us for +about two miles in a direction parallel with the river, and of +consequence with the enemy’s line, suddenly turned, and led directly +towards the town of Bladensburg. Being of course ignorant whether this +town might not be filled with American troops, the main body paused +here till the advanced guard should reconnoitre. The result proved that +no opposition was intended in that quarter, and that the whole of the +enemy’s army had been withdrawn to the opposite side of the stream, +whereupon the column was again put in motion, and in a short time +arrived in the streets of Bladensburg, and within range of the American +artillery. Immediately on our reaching this point, several of their +guns opened upon us, and kept up a quick and well-directed cannonade, +from which, as we were again commanded to halt, the men were directed +to shelter themselves as much as possible behind the houses. The object +of this halt, it was conjectured, was to give the General an +opportunity of examining the American line, and of trying the depth of +the river; because at present there appeared to be but one practicable +mode of attack, by crossing the bridge, and taking the enemy directly +in front. To do so, however, exposed as the bridge was, must be +attended with bloody consequences, nor could the delay of a few minutes +produce any mischief which the discovery of a ford would not amply +compensate. + +But in this conjecture we were altogether mistaken; for without +allowing time to the column to close its ranks, or to be joined by such +of the many stragglers as were now hurrying, as fast as weariness would +permit, to regain their places, the order to halt was countermanded, +and the word given to attack; and we immediately pushed on at double +quick time, towards the head of the bridge. While we were moving along +the street, a continued fire was kept up, with some execution, from +those guns which stood to the left of the road; but it was not till the +bridge was covered with our people that the two-gun battery upon the +road itself began to play.—Then, indeed, it also opened, and with +tremendous effect; for at the first discharge almost an entire company +was swept down; but whether it was that the guns had been previously +laid with measured exactness, or that the nerves of the gunners became +afterwards unsteady, the succeeding discharges were much less fatal. +The riflemen likewise began to gall us from the wooded bank with a +running fire of musketry; and it was not without trampling upon many of +their dead and dying comrades that the light brigade established itself +on the opposite side of the stream. + +When once there, however, everything else appeared easy. Wheeling off +to the right and left of the road, they dashed into the thicket, and +quickly cleared it of the American skirmishers; who, falling back with +precipitation upon the first line, threw it into disorder before it had +fired a shot. The consequence was, that our troops had scarcely shown +themselves when the whole of that line gave way, and fled in the +greatest confusion, leaving the two guns upon the road in possession of +the victors. + +But here it must be confessed that the light brigade was guilty of +imprudence. Instead of pausing till the rest of the army came up, the +soldiers lightened themselves by throwing away their knapsacks and +haversacks; and extending their ranks so as to show an equal front with +the enemy, pushed on to the attack of the second line. The Americans, +however, saw their weakness, and stood firm, and having the whole of +their artillery, with the exception of the pieces captured on the road, +and the greater part of their infantry in this line, they first checked +the ardour of the assailants by a heavy fire, and then, in their turn, +advanced to recover the ground which was lost. Against this charge the +extended order of the British troops would not permit them to offer an +effectual resistance, and they were accordingly borne back to the very +thicket upon the river’s brink; where they maintained themselves with +determined obstinacy, repelling all attempts to drive them through it; +and frequently following, to within a short distance of the cannon’s +mouth, such parts of the enemy’s line as gave way. + +In this state the action continued till the second brigade had likewise +crossed, and formed upon the right bank of the river; when the 44th +regiment moving to the right, and driving in the skirmishers, debouched +upon the left flank of the Americans, and completely turned it. In that +quarter, therefore, the battle was won; because the raw militia-men, +who were stationed there as being the least assailable point, when once +broken could not be rallied. But on their right the enemy still kept +their ground with much resolution; nor was it till the arrival of the +4th regiment, and the advance of the British forces in firm array to +the charge, that they began to waver. Then, indeed, seeing their left +in full flight, and the 44th getting in their rear, they lost all +order, and dispersed, leaving clouds of riflemen to cover their +retreat; and hastened to conceal themselves in the woods, where it +would have been madness to follow them. The rout was now general +throughout the line. The reserve, which ought to have supported the +main body, fled as soon as those in its front began to give way; and +the cavalry, instead of charging the British troops, now scattered in +pursuit, turned their horses’ heads and galloped off, leaving them in +undisputed possession of the field, and of ten out of the twenty pieces +of artillery. + +This battle, by which the fate of the American capital was decided, +began about one o’clock in the afternoon, and lasted till four. The +loss on the part of the English was severe, since, out of two-thirds of +the army, which were engaged, upwards of five hundred men were killed +and wounded; and what rendered it doubly severe was, that among these +were numbered several officers of rank and distinction. Colonel +Thornton, who commanded the light brigade, Lieutenant-Colonel Wood, +commanding the 85th regiment, and Major Brown, who led the advanced +guard, were all severely wounded; and General Ross himself had a horse +shot under him. On the side of the Americans the slaughter was not so +great. Being in possession of a strong position, they were of course +less exposed in defending, than the others in storming it; and had they +conducted themselves with coolness and resolution, it is not +conceivable how the battle could have been won. But the fact is, that, +with the exception of a party of sailors from the gun-boats, under the +command of Commodore Barney, no troops could behave worse than they +did. The skirmishers were driven in as soon as attacked, the first line +gave way without offering the slightest resistance, and the left of the +main body was broken within half an hour after it was seriously +engaged. Of the sailors, however, it would be injustice not to speak in +the terms which their conduct merits. They were employed as gunners, +and not only did they serve their guns with a quickness and precision +which astonished their assailants, but they stood till some of them +were actually bayoneted, with fuzes in their hands; nor was it till +their leader was wounded and taken, and they saw themselves deserted on +all sides by the soldiers, that they quitted the field. With respect to +the British army, again, no line of distinction can be drawn. All did +their duty, and none more gallantly than the rest; and though the brunt +of the affair fell upon the light brigade, this was owing chiefly to +the circumstance of its being at the head of the column, and perhaps +also, in some degree, to its own rash impetuosity. The artillery, +indeed, could do little; being unable to show itself in presence of a +force so superior; but the six-pounder was nevertheless brought into +action, and a corps of rockets proved of striking utility. + +Our troops being worn down from fatigue, and of course as ignorant of +the country as the Americans were the reverse, the pursuit could not be +continued to any distance. Neither was it attended with much slaughter. +Diving into the recesses of the forests, and covering themselves with +riflemen, the enemy were quickly beyond our reach; and having no +cavalry to scour even the high road, ten of the lightest of their guns +were carried off in the flight. The defeat, however, was absolute, and +the army which had been collected for the defence of Washington was +scattered beyond the possibility of, at least, an immediate reunion; +and as the distance from Bladensburg to that city does not exceed four +miles, there appeared to be no further obstacle in the way to prevent +its immediate capture. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +WASHINGTON + + +An opportunity so favourable was not endangered by any needless delay. +While the two brigades which had been engaged remained upon the field +to recover their order, the third, which had formed the reserve, and +was consequently unbroken, took the lead, and pushed forward at a rapid +rate towards Washington. + +As it was not the intention of the British Government to attempt +permanent conquests in this part of America, and as the General was +well aware that, with a handful of men, he could not pretend to +establish himself, for any length of time, in an enemy’s capital, he +determined to lay it under contribution, and to return quietly to the +shipping. Nor was there anything unworthy of the character of a British +officer in this determination. By all the customs of war, whatever +public property may chance to be in a captured town, becomes, +confessedly, the just spoil of the conqueror; and in thus proposing to +accept a certain sum of money in lieu of that property, he was showing +mercy rather than severity to the vanquished. It is true that if they +chose to reject his terms he and his army would be deprived of their +booty, because without some more convenient mode of transporting it +than we possessed, even the portable part of the property itself could +not be removed. But, on the other hand, there was no difficulty in +destroying it; and thus, though we should gain nothing, the American +Government would lose probably to a much greater amount than if they +had agreed to purchase its preservation by the money demanded. + +Such being the intention of General Ross, he did not march the troops +immediately into the city, but halted them upon a plain in its +immediate vicinity, whilst a flag of truce was sent forward with terms. +But whatever his proposal might have been, it was not so much as heard; +for scarcely had the party bearing the flag entered the street, when it +was fired upon from the windows of one of the houses, and the horse of +the General himself, who accompanied it, killed. The indignation +excited by this act throughout all ranks and classes of men in the +army, was such as the nature of the case could not fail to occasion. +Every thought of accommodation was instantly laid aside; the troops +advanced forthwith into the town, and having first put to the sword all +who were found in the house from which the shots were fired, and +reduced it to ashes, they proceeded without a moment’s delay to burn +and destroy everything in the most distant degree connected with +Government. In this general devastation were included the Senate-house, +the President’s palace, an extensive dock-yard and arsenal, barracks +for two or three thousand men, several large storehouses filled with +naval and military stores, some hundreds of cannon of different +descriptions, and nearly twenty thousand stand of small-arms. There +were also two or three public ropewalks which shared the same fate, a +fine frigate pierced for sixty guns, and just ready to be launched, +several gun brigs and armed schooners, with a variety of gun-boats and +small craft. The powder-magazines were set on fire, and exploded with a +tremendous crash, throwing down many houses in their vicinity, partly +by pieces of the walls striking them, and partly by the concussion of +the air; whilst quantities of shot, shell, and hand-grenades, which +could not otherwise be rendered useless, were cast into the river. In +destroying the cannon a method was adopted which I had never before +witnessed, and which, as it was both effectual and expeditious, I +cannot avoid relating. One gun of rather a small calibre was pitched +upon as the executioner of the rest, and being loaded with ball and +turned to the muzzles of the others, it was fired, and thus beat out +their breechings. Many, however, not being mounted, could not be thus +dealt with; these were spiked, and having their trunnions knocked off, +were afterwards cast into the bed of the river. + +All this was as it should be, and had the arm of vengeance been +extended no further, there would not have been room given for so much +as a whisper of disapprobation. But unfortunately it did not stop here; +a noble library, several printing-offices, and all the national +archives were likewise committed to the flames, which, though no doubt +the property of Government, might better have been spared. It is not, +however, my intention to join the outcry which was raised at the time +against what the Americans and their admirers were pleased to term a +line of conduct at once barbarous and unprofitable. On the contrary, I +conceive that too much praise cannot be given to the forbearance and +humanity of the British troops, who, irritated as they had every right +to be, spared, as far as possible, all private property, neither +plundering nor destroying a single house in the place, except that from +which the General’s horse had been killed. + +Whilst the third brigade was thus employed, the rest of the army, +having recalled its stragglers, and removed the wounded into +Bladensburg, began its march towards Washington. Though the battle came +to a close by four o’clock, the sun had set before the different +regiments were in a condition to move, consequently this short journey +was performed in the dark. The work of destruction had also begun in +the city before they quitted their ground; and the blazing of houses, +ships, and stores, the report of exploding magazines, and the crash of +falling roofs, informed them, as they proceeded, of what was going +forward. It would be difficult to conceive a finer spectacle than that +which presented itself as they approached the town. The sky was +brilliantly illumined by the different conflagrations; and a dark red +light was thrown upon the road, sufficient to permit each man to view +distinctly his comrade’s face. Except the burning of St. Sebastian’s, I +do not recollect to have witnessed at any period of my life a scene +more striking or more sublime. + +Having advanced as far as the plain, where the reserve had previously +paused, the first and second brigades halted; and forming into close +column, passed the night in bivouac. At first this was agreeable +enough, because the air was mild, and weariness made up for what was +wanting in comfort. But towards morning a violent storm of rain, +accompanied with thunder and lightning, came on, which disturbed the +rest of all who were exposed to it. Yet in spite of the inconvenience +arising from the shower, I cannot say that I felt disposed to grumble +at the interruption, for it appeared that what I had before considered +as superlatively sublime, still wanted this to render it complete. The +flashes of lightning vied in brilliancy with the flames which burst +from the roofs of burning houses, whilst the thunder drowned for a time +the noise of crumbling walls, and was only interrupted by the +occasional roar of cannon, and of large depots of gunpowder, as they +one by one exploded. + +I need scarcely observe, that the consternation of the inhabitants was +complete, and that to them this was a night of terror. So confident had +they been of the success of their troops, that few of them had dreamt +of quitting their houses or abandoning the city; nor was it till the +fugitives from the battle began to rush in, filling every place as they +came with dismay, that the President himself thought of providing for +his safety. That gentleman, as I was credibly informed, had gone forth +in the morning with the army, and had continued among his troops till +the British forces began to make their appearance. Whether the sight of +his enemies cooled his courage or not I cannot say, but according to my +informant, no sooner was the glittering of our arms discernible, than +he began to discover that his presence was more wanted in the senate +than in the field; and having ridden through the ranks, and exhorted +every man to do his duty, he hurried back to his own house, that he +might prepare a feast for the entertainment of his officers, when they +should return victorious. For the truth of these details I will not be +answerable; but this much I know, that the feast was actually prepared, +though, instead of being devoured by American officers, it went to +satisfy the less delicate appetites of a party of English soldiers. +When the detachment sent out to destroy Mr. Maddison’s house, entered +his dining parlour, they found a dinner-table spread, and covers laid +for forty guests. Several kinds of wine in handsome cut-glass decanters +were cooling on the sideboard; plate-holders stood by the fire-place, +filled with dishes and plates; knives, forks, and spoons, were arranged +for immediate use; everything in short was ready for the entertainment +of a ceremonious party. Such were the arrangements in the dining-room, +whilst in the kitchen were others answerable to them in every respect. +Spits loaded with joints of various sorts turned before the fire; pots, +saucepans, and other culinary utensils stood upon the grate; and all +the other requisites for an elegant and substantial repast were in the +exact state which indicated that they had been lately and precipitately +abandoned. + +The reader will easily believe that these preparations were beheld, by +a party of hungry soldiers, with no indifferent eye. An elegant dinner, +even though considerably over-dressed, was a luxury to which few of +them, at least for some time back, had been accustomed; and which, +after the dangers and fatigues of the day, appeared peculiarly +inviting. They sat down to it, therefore, not indeed in the most +orderly manner, but with countenances which would not have disgraced a +party of aldermen at a civic feast; and having satisfied their +appetites with fewer complaints than would have probably escaped their +rival gourmands, and partaken pretty freely of the wines, they finished +by setting fire to the house which had so liberally entertained them. + +I have said that to the inhabitants of Washington this was a night of +terror and dismay. From whatever cause the confidence arose, certain it +is that they expected anything rather than the arrival among them of a +British army; and their consternation was proportionate to their +previous feeling of security, when an event, so little anticipated, +actually came to pass. The first impulse naturally prompted them to +fly, and the streets were speedily crowded with soldiers and senators, +men, women, and children, horses, carriages, and carts loaded with +household furniture, all hastening towards a wooden bridge which +crosses the Potomac. The confusion thus occasioned was terrible, and +the crowd upon the bridge was such as to endanger its giving way. But +Mr. Maddison, as is affirmed, having escaped among the first, was no +sooner safe on the opposite bank of the river, than he gave orders that +the bridge should be broken down; which being obeyed, the rest were +obliged to return, and to trust to the clemency of the victors. + +In this manner was the night passed by both parties; and at daybreak +next morning the light brigade moved into the city, whilst the reserve +fell back to a height about half a mile in the rear. Little, however, +now remained to be done, because everything marked out for destruction +was already consumed. Of the Senate-house, the President’s palace, the +barracks, the dockyard, &c., nothing could be seen, except heaps of +smoking ruins; and even the bridge, a noble structure upwards of a mile +in length, was almost entirely demolished. There was, therefore, no +further occasion to scatter the troops, and they were accordingly kept +together as much as possible on the Capitol Hill. + +Of the city of Washington I have purposely declined attempting any +minute description, because it possesses no leading features, by +catching which I might hope to convey to a person who has not seen it, +something like an accurate notion of the whole. It was then, and is, I +believe, still in its infancy, few of the streets being finished, and +many containing not more than three or four houses, at wide intervals +from each other. But its situation gives to it advantages such as few +capitals either in the new or old world can boast of, and if it +continue to be the head of the American States for another century, it +will become, I doubt not, one of the most flourishing cities in +existence. America is, and always will be, a commercial nation, nor can +a single town throughout the whole of that vast continent boast of a +better harbour than Washington. Standing upon the Potomac, one of the +most navigable of all the rivers that empty themselves into the +Chesapeake, the depth of which is sufficient to float a frigate for +some way above the town, it possesses unrivalled facilities for the +carrying on of an extensive trade; whilst its distance from the coast +is such as to place it, in a great measure, beyond reach of insult from +an enemy. Such an assertion, coming from one who has just detailed the +particulars of its capture, may, indeed, appear to partake not slightly +of the nature of a paradox; but there is no denying that the fall of +Washington ought to be attributed much more to the misconduct of the +Americans themselves, than to the skill or enterprise of those who +effected it. Had the emergency been contemplated, and in a proper +manner provided against, or had the most moderate ingenuity and courage +been displayed in retarding the progress of our troops, the design, if +formed at all, would have been either abandoned immediately, or must +have ended in the total destruction of the invaders. + +Like other infant towns, Washington is but little ornamented with fine +buildings; except the Senate-house, I really know of none worthy to be +noticed. This however is, or rather was, an edifice of some beauty. It +stood, where its ruins now stand, upon a mound called the Capitol Hill, +and near a trifling stream named the Tiber; from which circumstances +these modern republicans are led to flatter themselves that the days +are coming when it will rival in power and grandeur the Senate-house of +ancient Rome herself. It was built entirely of freestone, tastefully +worked and highly polished; and, besides its numerous windows, was +lighted from the top by a large and handsome cupola. Perhaps it could +not be said to belong to any decided style of architecture; but its +central appearance was light, airy, and elegant. After traversing a +wide and spacious entrance-hall, you arrived at the foot of a handsome +spiral hanging staircase; on the right of which were two spacious +apartments, one above the other, which were occupied as sitting +chambers by the two houses of representatives. From these branched off +several smaller rooms, fitted up as offices, and probably used as such +by the various officers of state. On the right of the staircase, again, +were two other apartments equal in size to those on the left, with a +like number of smaller rooms branching off from them. These were +furnished as a public library, the two larger being well stocked with +valuable books, principally in modern languages, whilst the others, +filled with archives, national statutes, acts of legislature, &c., were +used as the private rooms of the librarians. + +The President’s house, on the other hand, though likewise a public +building, was remarkable for nothing except the absence of taste +exhibited in its structure. It was small, incommodious, and plain; in +no respect likely to excite the jealousy of a people peculiarly averse +to all pomp or parade, even in their chief magistrate. Besides these, +there were also a custom-house, several banking-houses, and a school or +college, all claiming to themselves the destruction of public works; +but in them there was a plainness amounting almost to coarseness, and a +general air of republicanism, by no means imposing. With respect to the +number of inhabitants which Washington contained, I confess that I +cannot pretend to give an opinion: but if any judgment may be formed +from the extent of ground covered by what is considered as the town, I +should say that they amounted to somewhere about sixty thousand. George +Town, the quarter where the President’s house stood, is compact and +regular, containing, I should conceive, at least twenty thousand souls +within itself; nor can the population of the other quarters be +estimated at less than double that number. + +Such was then the city of Washington, of which our hasty and unfriendly +visit did not allow us to take a very minute survey. I return now to +the movements of the British army. + +I have stated above that our troops were this day kept as much together +as possible upon the Capitol Hill. But it was not alone on account of +the completion of their destructive labours that this was done. A +powerful army of Americans already began to show themselves upon some +heights, at the distance of two or three miles from the city; and as +they sent out detachments of horse even to the very suburbs, for the +purpose of watching our motions, it would have been unsafe to permit +more straggling than was absolutely necessary. The army which we had +overthrown the day before, though defeated, was far from annihilated; +it had by this time recovered its panic, began to concentrate itself in +our front, and presented quite as formidable an appearance as ever. We +learnt, also, that it was joined by a considerable force from the back +settlements, which had arrived too late to take part in the action, and +the report was, that both combined amounted to nearly twelve thousand +men. + +Whether or not it was their intention to attack, I cannot pretend to +say, because it was noon before they showed themselves; and soon after, +when something like a movement could be discerned in their ranks, the +sky grew suddenly dark, and the most tremendous hurricane ever +remembered by the oldest inhabitant in the place came on. Of the +prodigious force of the wind it is impossible for one who was not an +eye-witness to its effects to form a conception. Roofs of houses were +torn off by it, and whirled into the air like sheets of paper; whilst +the rain which accompanied it resembled the rushing of a mighty +cataract rather than the dropping of a shower. The darkness was as +great as if the sun had long set, and the last remains of twilight had +come on, occasionally relieved by flashes of vivid lightning streaming +through it; which, together with the noise of the wind and the thunder, +the crash of falling buildings, and the tearing of roofs as they were +stript from the walls, produced the most appalling effect I ever have, +and probably ever shall, witness. The storm lasted for nearly two hours +without intermission, during which time many of the houses spared by us +were blown down, and thirty of our men, besides several of the +inhabitants, buried beneath their ruins. Our column was as completely +dispersed as if it had received a total defeat; some of the men flying +for shelter behind walls and buildings, and others falling flat upon +the ground, to prevent themselves from being carried away by the +tempest; nay, such was the violence of the wind, that two pieces of +light cannon, which stood upon the eminence, were fairly lifted from +the ground, and borne several yards to the rear. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + +When the hurricane had blown over, the camp of the Americans appeared +to be in as great a state of confusion as our own; nor could either +party recover themselves sufficiently during the rest of the day to try +the fortune of a battle. Of this General Ross did not fail to take +advantage. He had already attained all that he could hope, and perhaps +more than he originally expected to attain; consequently, to risk +another action would only be to spill blood for no purpose. Whatever +might be the issue of the contest, he could derive from it no +advantage. If he were victorious, it would not do away with the +necessity which existed of evacuating Washington; if defeated, his ruin +was certain. To avoid fighting was therefore his object, and perhaps he +owed its accomplishment to the fortunate occurrence of the storm. Be +that, however, as it may, a retreat was resolved upon; and we now only +waited for night, to put the resolution into practice. + +There was, however, one difficulty to be surmounted in this proceeding. +Of the wounded, many were so ill as to preclude all possibility of +their removal, and to leave them in the hands of an enemy whom we had +beaten was rather a mortifying anticipation. But for this there was no +help; and it now only remained to make the best arrangements for their +comfort, and to secure for them, as far as could be done, civil +treatment from the Americans. + +It chanced that, among other prisoners taken at Bladensburg, was +Commodore Barney, an American officer of much gallantry and high sense +of honour. Being himself wounded, he was the more likely to feel for +those who were in a similar condition, and having received the kindest +treatment from our medical attendants, as long as he continued under +their hands, he became, without solicitation, the friend of his +fellow-sufferers. To him, as well as to the other prisoners, was given +his parole, and to his care were our wounded, in a peculiar manner, +intrusted,—a trust which he received with the utmost willingness, and +discharged with the most praiseworthy exactness. Among other +stipulations, it was agreed that such of our people as were left behind +should be considered as prisoners of war, and should be restored to us +as soon as they were able to travel; and that, as soon as they reached +the ships, the Commodore and his countrymen would, in exchange, be +released from their engagements. + +As soon as these arrangements were completed, and darkness had come on, +the third brigade, which was posted in the rear of our army, began to +withdraw. Then followed the guns, afterwards the second, and last of +all the light brigade, exactly reversing the order which had been +maintained during the advance. Instead of an advanced guard, this last +now furnished a party to cover the retreat, and the whole procession +was closed by the mounted drivers. + +It being a matter of great importance to deceive the enemy and to +prevent pursuit, the rear of the column did not quit its ground upon +the Capitol till a late hour. During the day an order had been issued +that none of the inhabitants should be seen in the streets after eight +o’clock; and as fear renders most men obedient, the order was +punctually attended to. All the horses belonging to different officers +were removed to drag the guns, no one being allowed to ride, lest a +neigh, or even the trampling of hoofs, should excite suspicion. The +fires were trimmed, and made to blaze brightly; fuel enough was left to +keep them so for some hours; and finally, about half-past nine o’clock +the troops formed in marching order, and moved off in the most profound +silence. Not a word was spoken, nor a single individual permitted to +step one inch out of his place, by which means they passed along the +streets perfectly unnoticed, and cleared the town without any alarm +being given. Our pace, it will be imagined, was none of the most tardy, +consequently it was not long before we reached the ground which had +been occupied by the other brigades. Here we found a second line of +fires blazing in the same manner as those deserted by ourselves; and +the same precautions in every respect adopted, to induce a belief that +our army was still quiet.—Beyond these, again, we found two or three +solitary fires, placed in such order as to resemble those of a chain of +piquets. In a word, the deception was so well managed, that even we +ourselves were at first doubtful whether the rest of the troops had +fallen back. + +When we reached the ground where yesterday’s battle had been fought, +the moon rose, and exhibited a spectacle by no means enlivening.—The +dead were still unburied, and lay about in every direction completely +naked. They had been stripped even of their shirts, and having been +exposed in this state to the violent rain in the morning, they appeared +to be bleached to a most unnatural degree of whiteness. The heat and +rain together had likewise affected them in a different manner; and the +smell which rose upon the night air was horrible. + +There is something in such a scene as this extremely humbling, and +repugnant to the feelings of human nature. During the agitation of a +battle, it is nothing to see men fall in hundreds by your side. You may +look at them, perhaps, for an instant, but you do so almost without +being yourself aware of it, so completely are your thoughts carried +away by the excitation of the moment and the shouts of your +companions.—But when you come to view the dead in an hour of calmness, +stripped as they generally are, you cannot help remembering how frail +may have been the covering which saved yourself from being the +loathsome thing on which you are now gazing.—For myself, I confess that +these reflections rose within my mind on the present occasion; and if +any one should say that, similarly situated, they would not rise in +his, I should give him no credit for a superior degree of courage, +though I might be inclined to despise him for his want of the common +feelings of a reasonable being. + +BLADENSBURG. + +In Bladensburg the brigade halted for an hour, while those men who had +thrown away their knapsacks endeavoured to recover them. During this +interval I strolled up to a house which had been converted into an +hospital, and paid a hasty visit to the wounded. I found them in great +pain, and some of them deeply affected at the thought of being +abandoned by their comrades, and left to the mercy of their enemies. +Yet, in their apprehension of evil treatment from the Americans, the +event proved that they had done injustice to that people; who were +found to possess at least one generous trait in their character, +namely, that of behaving kindly and attentively to their prisoners. + +As soon as the stragglers had returned to their ranks, we again moved +on, continuing to march without once stopping to rest during the whole +of the night. Of the fatigue of a night march none but those who have +experienced it can form the smallest conception. Oppressed with the +most intolerable drowsiness, we were absolutely dozing upon our legs; +and if any check at the head of the column caused a momentary delay, +the road was instantly covered with men fast asleep. It is generally +acknowledged that no inclination is so difficult to resist as the +inclination to sleep; but when you are compelled not only to bear up +against that, but to struggle also with weariness, and to walk at the +same time, it is scarcely possible to hold out long. By seven o’clock +in the morning, it was found absolutely necessary to pause, because +numbers had already fallen behind, and numbers more were ready to +follow their example; when throwing ourselves upon the ground, almost +in the same order in which we had marched, in less than five minutes +there was not a single unclosed eye throughout the whole brigade. +Piquets were of course stationed, and sentinels placed, to whom no rest +was granted, but, except these, the entire army resembled a heap of +dead bodies on a field of battle, rather than living men. + +ARLBOROUGH + +In this situation we remained till noon, when we were again roused to +continue the retreat. Though the sun was oppressively powerful, we +moved on without resting till dark, when having arrived at our old +position near Marlborough, we halted for the night. During this day’s +march we were joined by numbers of negro slaves, who implored us to +take them along with us, offering to serve either as soldiers or +sailors, if we would but give them their liberty; but as General Ross +persisted in protecting private property of every description, few of +them were fortunate enough to obtain their wishes. + +We had now proceeded a distance of thirty-five miles, and began to +consider ourselves beyond the danger of pursuit. The remainder of the +retreat was accordingly conducted with more leisure; our next march +carrying us no farther than to Nottingham, where we remained during an +entire day, for the purpose of resting the troops. It cannot, however, +be said that this resting-time was spent in idleness. A gun-brig, with +a number of ships’ launches and long-boats, had made their way up the +stream, and were at anchor opposite to the town. On board the former +were carried such of the wounded as had been able to travel, whilst the +latter were loaded with flour and tobacco, the only spoil which we +found it practicable to bring off. + +Whilst the infantry were thus employed, the cavalry was sent back as +far as Marlborough, to discover whether there were any American forces +in pursuit; and it was well for the few stragglers who had been left +behind that this recognizance was made. Though there appeared to be no +disposition on the part of the American General to follow our steps and +to harass the retreat, the inhabitants of that village, at the +instigation of a medical practitioner called Bain, bad risen in arms as +soon as we departed; and falling upon such individuals as strayed from +the column, put some of them to death, and made others prisoners. A +soldier whom they had taken, and who had escaped, gave information of +these proceedings to the troopers, just as they were about to return to +head-quarters; upon which they immediately wheeled about, and galloping +into the village, pulled the doctor out of his bed (for it was early in +the morning), compelled him, by a threat of instant death, to liberate +his prisoners; and mounting him before one of the party, brought him in +triumph to the camp. + +ST. BENEDICT’S. + +The wounded, the artillery, and plunder, being all embarked on the +28th, at daybreak on the 29th we took the direction of St. Benedict’s, +where we arrived, without any adventure, at a late hour in the evening. +Here we again occupied the ground of which we had taken possession on +first landing, passing the night in perfect quiet; and next day, the +boats of the fleet being ready to receive us, the regiments, one by +one, marched down to the beach. We found the shore covered with sailors +from the different ships of war, who welcomed our arrival with loud +cheers; and having contrived to bring up a larger flotilla than had +been employed in the disembarkation, they removed us within a few +hours, and without the occurrence of any accident, to our respective +vessels. + +Such is a plain impartial account of the inroad upon Washington, an +affair than which the whole war produced none more brilliant or more +daring. In whatever light we may regard it, whether we look to the +amount of difficulties which it behoved him to overcome, the inadequacy +of the force which he commanded, or the distance which he was called +upon to march, in the midst of a hostile population, and through deep +and trackless forests, we cannot deny to General Ross the praise which +is his due, of having planned and successfully accomplished an +expedition which none but a sagacious mind could have devised, and none +but a gallant spirit carried into execution. Among the many important +transactions which then occupied the public attention, the campaign at +Washington was, I believe, but little spoken of; and even now, it is +overwhelmed in the recollections of the all-engrossing Waterloo; but +the time will probably come, when he who at the head of four thousand +men penetrated upwards of sixty miles into an enemy’s country; +overthrew an army more than double his own in point of numbers; took +possession of the capital of a great nation, and having held it as long +as it suited his own purposes to hold it, returned again in triumph to +his fleet, will be ranked, as he deserves to be ranked, among the +number of those who have most successfully contributed to elevate Great +Britain to the height of military glory on which she now stands. + +It has been said that the entire merit of this brilliant expedition is +due, not so much to the brave man who conducted it, as to Sir George +Cockburn, at whose suggestion it was undertaken. To the great gallantry +and high talents of Sir George Cockburn no one who served within the +compass of the Bay of Chesapeake will refuse to bear testimony, nor is +it improbable that in attributing to him the original, design of laying +Washington itself under contribution, common report speaks truly. But +with whomsoever the idea first originated, to General Ross belongs the +undivided of having, carried it into effect. From Sir George Cockburn, +and indeed from the whole fleet, the army received every assistance +which it was in the power of the the fleet to bestow; but had no Ross +been at the head of the land forces, the capital of the United States +would have suffered no insult. I have ventured to make these remarks, +not with any design of taking away, in the slightest degree, from the +well-earned reputation of the living; but merely as an act of justice +towards the memory of the gallant dead, whose services have hardly +received all the notice, either from the Government or the country, +which they deserved. + +Of the degree of military sagacity exhibited on both sides, during the +progress of hostilities, it scarcely becomes me to speak. Perhaps our +leader delayed something too long in making, up his mind as to the +ultimate end to be pursued, after the troop had penetrated so far into +the interior as Marlborough. Had he pushed on at once, it is barely +possible that Washington might have fallen at a less expense of human +life than actually occurred. Perhaps, too, he commenced the attack at +Bladensburg with a degree of precipitancy which hindered him from, +taking advantage of an open ford, and compelled him to expose his +troops to the fire of the enemy’s artillery whilst crossing a narrow +bridge in a single column. But these errors, if errors they may be +termed, were amply compensated by the perfect success of his +operations; whilst in every other particular his conduct was beyond the +reach of censure. In his choice of ground for halting, in the order +both of his advance and retreat, and in the rapidity of his movements +as soon as his plans had been arranged, General Ross exhibited himself +in the light of an able and diligent commander. No man could possess, +more than he a soldier’s eye in examining the face of a country; and in +what little manoeuvring the circumstances permitted, he displayed the +proficiency of one well practised in the arts of campaigning. It will +be recollected, that on the 23rd, the day previous to the battle, we +fell in with a strong body of the enemy, to deceive whom we wheeled off +from the main road, and took the direction of Alexandria. The plan was +attended by the most perfect success; the party deceived, being in fact +the advanced guard of the main army. Thinking that Alexandria, and not +Washington, was threatened, the American General abandoned a strong +position, which he had seized on the main road, harassed his troops by +a needless march towards that town; and discovered his mistake only +time enough to occupy the heights of Bladensburg a very few minutes +before we came in sight. + +With respect to the Americans, again, criticism necessarily degenerates +into unqualified censure. From the beginning to the end of the affair, +they acted in no one instance like prudent or sagacious men. In the +first place, they ought on no account to have risked a general action +in an open country, however strong and steep; and, secondly, they +deserved to suffer much more severely than they did suffer, for +permitting an enemy’s army to penetrate beyond Nottingham. In allowing +us to land without opposition, they were perhaps guilty of no great +mistake; but having done so, instead of concentrating their forces in +one place, they ought to have harassed us with continual skirmishing; +felled trees on each side, and thrown them across the road; dug deep +ditches at certain intervals; in a word, it was their wisdom to adopt +the mode of warfare to which their own habits, as, well as the nature +of their country, invited them. + +In America, every man is a marksman from his very boyhood, and every +man serves in the militia; but to bring an army of raw militia-men, +however excellent they might be as marksmen, into a fair field against +regular troops, could end in nothing but defeat. When two lines oppose +each other, very little depends upon the accuracy with which +individuals take aim. It is then that the habit of acting in concert, +the confidence which each man feels in his companions, and the rapidity +and good order in which different movements can be executed, are alone +of real service. But put these raw militia-men into thick woods, and +send your regular troops to drive them out, and you will immediately +lose all the advantages of discipline, and reduce your battle to so +many single combats. + +Here, therefore, lay their principal error: had they left all clear, +and Permitted us to advance as far as Nottingham, then broken up the +roads, and covered them with trees, it would have been impossible for +us to go a step beyond. As soon as this was effected, they might have +skirmished with us in front, and kept our attention alive with part of +their troops, till the rest, acquainted as they doubtless were with +every inch of the country, had got into our rear, and, by a similar +mode of proceeding, cut off our retreat. Thus we should have been taken +in a snare, from which it would have been no easy task to extricate +ourselves, and might, perhaps, have been obliged in the end to +surrender at discretion. + +But so obvious and so natural a plan of defence they chose to reject +and determining to trust all to the fate of a battle, they were guilty +of a monstrous error again. Bladensburg ought not to have been left +unoccupied. The most open village, if resolutely defended, will cost +many men before it falls; whereas Bladensburg, being composed of +substantial brick houses, might have been maintained for hours against +all our efforts. In the next place, they displayed great want of +military knowledge in the disposition of both their infantry and +artillery. There was not, in the whole space of their position, a +single point where an enemy would be exposed to a cross fire. The +troops were drawn up in three straight lines, like so many regiments +upon a gala parade; whilst the guns were used as connecting links to a +chain, being posted in the same order, by ones and twos, at every +interval. + +In maintaining themselves, likewise, when attacked, they exhibited +neither skill nor resolution. Of the personal courage of the Americans +there can be no doubt; they are, individually taken, as brave a nation +as any in the world. But they are not soldiers; they have not the +experience nor the habits of soldiers. It was the height of folly, +therefore, to bring them into a situation where nothing except that +experience and those habits will avail; and it is on this account that +I repeat what I have already said, that the capture of Washington was +more owing to the blindness of the Americans themselves than to any +other cause. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +ALEXANDRIA + + +Whilst the army was thus actively employed, the fleet did not remain +idle. A squadron of frigates, with two bomb-ships, under the command of +Captain Gordon, of the Sea-horse, penetrated up the Potomac, and +appeared before Alexandria. The whole of the militia of the district +was at this time called away for the defence of the capital, +consequently no place could be less prepared to resist an invader than +that city. A party accordingly landed from the ships without +opposition, and having destroyed the barracks, public works, and all +the cannon which they found on shore, they seized a number of schooners +and other small craft then lying in the harbour, and loading them with +flour and tobacco to a considerable amount, prepared to rejoin the +fleet in the bay. + +But by this time the country was alarmed; a detachment was sent from +the main army, and being joined by the reserve of militia, it was +determined to intercept the squadron on its return. With this view, +several pieces of heavy cannon were mounted upon a steep part of the +bank, where the river, in making an angle, narrows considerably in its +channel. Thither also hastened large bodies of infantry; and before the +frigates had begun to weigh anchor nearly 5000 men were assembled to +prevent their passage. + +Of these preparations Captain Gordon did not long remain ignorant; nor +was he backward in making the best arrangements possible to meet the +danger. By shifting the ballast in each of the vessels entirely to one +side, he caused them to lean in such a manner as that their artillery +could be elevated to a surprising degree, and the shot rise even to the +summit of the hill. The guns were then stuffed, rather than loaded, +with grape and musket-balls; and the ships, taking their stations +according to their draft of water, the lightest keeping nearest to the +enemy’s shore, set sail, and, favoured by a leading breeze, stood +leisurely down the river. + +As soon as they arrived within tangible distance, a brisk cannonade was +opened upon them from the heights, and the whole of the infantry +appeared in line along, the brow of the eminence. Regardless of these +formidable salutations, the ships continued to hold their course +without changing their order or returning a shot, till they reached the +base of the hill upon which the infantry stood, and received a volley +of musketry into their decks. Then, indeed, they answered the fire; and +with such effect, that at the first broadside the enemy’s guns were +abandoned, and their infantry took to flight. The Americans had +persuaded themselves that no ship could point her guns so as to sweep +the top of the hill; and under this idea had drawn up their troops +along the ridge, with the intention of overawing the squadron by a +display of their numbers. But in the event they found themselves +mistaken, for so well had Captain Gordon arranged matters, that not a +single shot fell under its mark; and as the ships’ artillery had been +loaded for the occasion, a shower of balls of every size and +description came amongst them, such as it was impossible to withstand. +A single broadside was sufficient to secure the safe passage of his +squadron; but with this Captain Gordon was not contented. Seeing the +enemy driven from their cannon, he immediately landed his marines, +spiked the guns, and blew up the expense magazines; when, having +received them all safely on board again, he continued his voyage, and +regained the Chesapeake without further molestation. + +Nor was this the only operation in which the navy were employed. +Cruising about in every direction, they threatened the whole line of +coast, from the entrance to the very bend of the bay; and thus kept the +Americans in a constant state of alarm. Whenever a favourable +opportunity presented itself, parties landed, plundered or destroyed +the Government stores, laid towns and districts under contribution, and +brought off all the shipping which could be reached. In a word, the +hostilities carried on in the Chesapeake resembled the expeditions of +the ancient Danes against Great Britain, rather than a modern war +between civilized nations. But these hasty excursions, though generally +successful, were not always performed without loss to the invaders. +Many men and some officers were killed and wounded, among whom was +Captain Sir Peter Parker, of the Menelaus frigate, an officer +distinguished for his gallantry and knowledge of naval tactics. Having +learnt that an encampment of 300 men and six pieces of cannon had been +formed, at the distance of a few miles from the banks of the Potomac, +and about nine leagues below Alexandria, he determined, with part of +his ship’s crew, to surprise it, and to capture the guns. Running his +frigate with this view up the river, he cast anchor opposite to the +place where the American forces lay; and leaving on board only a +sufficient number of sailors to manage the ship, and to guard against +surprise, with the rest, amounting to 200 seamen and marines, he +landed, and marched rapidly towards the enemy’s camp. But intelligence +of his proceedings had already reached them; patrols of horse hovering +continually along the coast for the purpose of watching the motions of +our fleet. When, therefore, he arrived at the point of destination, he +found the bivouac deserted, and the rear-guard in full retreat. With +these a little skirmishing ensued, and he received a rifle-ball in the +thigh. Not suspecting that the wound was dangerous, he continued to +push forward, till he fell exhausted from loss of blood; when, on +examining the hurt, it was found that the femoral artery had been cut; +and before any proper assistance could be afforded, he literally bled +to death. Seeing their leader killed, and the enemy retiring, +apparently with the design of drawing them away from the coast, the +sailors now halted; and taking up their dead commander, returned to the +river without being able to effect anything which might, in any degree, +console them for their loss. + +THE PATUXENT. + +In the meantime the army continued, for some days, quietly on board the +ships in the Patuxent. The wounded whose cases appeared most desperate +were removed to vessels fitted up for their reception, and sailed, some +for Halifax, and others for England. The dispatches were likewise made +out and sent off in the Iphigenia, whilst a sort of breathing-time was +given to those who had been of late so actively employed. Whilst this +sabbath continued, I amused myself by landing; and under the pretext of +shooting, strolled sometimes farther up the country than prudence +exactly warranted. The houses and villas, upon the immediate banks of +the river, I found universally deserted, and thoroughly plundered. The +corn, however, was uninjured; and even flocks of sheep were seen +grazing within a short distance of the water, protected only by negro +slaves. Of these none were taken without an equivalent being as +faithfully paid as if they had been sold in the market-place of New +York; a circumstance which favoured the belief that the houses had been +ransacked, not by the British troops, but by the inhabitants +themselves. Whether it was really so or not I cannot say, but this I +know, that from the time of our arrival in the Chesapeake, all acts of +individual plunder or violence were strictly prohibited, and severely +punished. + +But this appearance of ruin and desertion extended not more than a mile +or two from the coast. Beyond that, I found the cottages occupied by +their owners, and everything remaining as if no enemy were within a +hundred miles. The young men, indeed, were generally absent, because +every man fit to bear arms was now serving with the army; but the old +men and the women seemed to live as comfortably as if the most profound +peace had reigned throughout the State. Nor did I find them altogether +so hostile to our interest as I had expected. They professed to be +Federalists; and though they regretted the events of the war, they +blamed their own rulers for its commencement. Tempted by this show of +quietness, I one day continued my walk to a greater distance from the +fleet than I had yet ventured to do. My servant was with me, but had no +arms, and I was armed only with a double-barrelled fowling-piece. +Having wearied myself with looking for game, and penetrated beyond my +former landmarks, I came suddenly upon a small hamlet, occupying a +piece of cleared ground in the very heart of a thick wood. With this, +to confess the truth, I was by no means delighted, more especially as I +perceived two stout-looking men sitting at the door of one of the +cottages. To retire unobserved was, however, impossible, because the +rustling which I had made among the trees attracted their attention, +and they saw me; probably, before I had seen them. Perceiving that +their eyes were fixed upon me, I determined to put a bold face upon the +matter; and calling aloud, as if to a party to halt, I advanced, with +my servant, towards them. They were dressed in sailors’ jackets and +trowsers, and rose on my approach, taking off their hats with much +civility. On joining them, I demanded to be informed whether they were +not Englishmen, and deserters from the fleet, stating that I was in +search of two persons very much answering their description. They +assured me that they were Americans, and no deserters, begging that I +would not take them away; a request to which, after some time, I +assented. They then conducted me into the house, where I found an old +man and three women, who entertained me with bread, cheese, and new +milk. While I was sitting here, a third youth, in the dress of a +labourer, entered, and whispered to one of the sailors, who immediately +rose to go out, but I commanded him to sit still, declaring that I was +not satisfied, and should certainly arrest him if he attempted to +escape. The man sat down sulkily; and the young labourer coming +forward, begged permission to examine my gun. This was a request which +I did not much relish, and with which I, of course, refused to comply; +telling the fellow that it was loaded, and that I was unwilling to +trust it out of my own band, on account of a weakness in one of the +locks. + +I had now kept up appearances as long as they could be kept up, and +therefore rose to withdraw; a measure to which I was additionally +induced by the appearance of two other countrymen at the opposite end +of the hamlet. I therefore told the sailors that, if they would pledge +themselves to remain quietly at home, without joining the American +army, I would not molest them; warning them, at the same time, not to +venture beyond the village, lest they should fall into the hands of +other parties, who were also in search of deserters. The promise they +gave, but not with much alacrity, when I rose, and keeping my eye fixed +upon them, and my gun ready cocked in my hand, walked out, followed by +my servant. They conducted us to the door, and stood staring after us +till we got to the edge of the wood; when I observed them moving +towards their countrymen, who also gazed upon us, without either +advancing or flying. The reader will readily believe, that as soon as +we found ourselves concealed by the trees, we lost no time in +endeavouring to discover the direct way towards the shipping; but +plunging into the thickets, ran with all speed, without thinking of +aught except an immediate escape from pursuit. Whether the Americans +did attempt to follow, or not, I cannot tell. If they did, they took a +wrong direction, for in something more than an hour I found myself at +the edge of the river, a little way above the shipping, and returned +safely on board, fully resolved not again, to expose myself to such +risks, without necessity. + +THE PATAPSCO. + +In this manner the time was spent till daybreak on the 6th of +September, when the whole fleet got under weigh, and stood towards the +Chesapeake. The wind was fair, and we speedily cleared the river; but +instead of standing up the bay, as we had expected, we ran down a few +miles below the mouth of the Patuxent, and there anchored. A signal was +then made by telegraph for all ships to send in a return of the number +of seamen whom, in addition to marines, they could land with +small-arms. Every ship’s crew was accordingly mustered, and it was +found that, besides the numbers necessary for conveying stores and +dragging guns, one thousand sailors could be spared from the fleet. +Thus, in spite of our loss at Bladensburg, we were enabled on our next +debarkation to bring into the field about five thousand fighting men. + +Next morning we again weighed, and directed our course towards the +Potomac. We entered this river soon after midday, and continued to stem +the stream during the night, and till dusk on the following evening, +when we again brought up. Here we were joined by Admiral Cockburn, who +had quitted the anchorage some days before the rest of the fleet, with +a large flotilla of prizes and small craft; and having on the 9th once +more set sail, and steered for a few hours in the direction of +Alexandria, we suddenly put about, and, favoured by a fresh breeze, ran +down to the bay, turning our heads upwards towards the Patapsco. +Baltimore, it was now understood, was the point of attack; and towards +the river upon which that town is built we hastened under a heavy press +of sail. + +The object of this manoeuvring was evidently to deceive the enemy, and +by keeping him in suspense as to the place threatened, to prevent his +concentrating his forces, or throwing up works for its defence. But in +the attainment of our object, the event proved that we were but +partially successful. Certain it is, however, that the utmost +consternation prevailed in every town or village opposite to which we +made our appearance. In passing Anapolis, a considerable town built +upon the bay, and possessing a tolerable harbour, we stood in so close +as to discern the inhabitants flying from their houses; carts and +waggons loaded with furniture hurrying along the roads, and horsemen +galloping along the shore, as if watching the fearful moment when the +boats should be hoisted out, and the troops quit the vessels. Wherever +a lighthouse or signal station was erected, alarm-guns were fired and +beacons lighted. In a word, all the horrors of doubt and apprehension +seemed to oppress the inhabitants of this devoted district. + +The fair wind continuing to blow without interruption, on the 11th we +came in sight of the projecting headland, where it was designed to +disembark the troops. It was a promontory washed by the Patapsco on one +side, and a curvature of the bay itself on the other. It was determined +to land here, rather than to ascend the river, because the Patapsco, +though broad, is far from deep. It is, in fact, too shallow to admit a +line-of-battle ship; and, as no one could guess what impediments might +be thrown in the way to obstruct the navigation, prudence forbade that +five thousand men should be intrusted to the convoy of the smaller +vessels alone. Besides, the distance from the point to Baltimore did +not exceed fourteen or fifteen miles, a space which might easily be +traversed in a day. + +But while the land forces moved in this direction upon Baltimore, it +was resolved that the frigates and bomb-ships should endeavour to force +their way through every obstacle, and to obtain possession of the +navigation of the river, so as, if possible, to co-operate with the +army by bombarding the place from the water. A frigate was accordingly +dispatched to try the depth, and to take soundings of the channel, +whilst the remainder of the fleet came to an anchor off the point. In +the meantime all was again bustle and preparation on board the +troop-ships and transports. Three days’ provisions were cooked, as +before, and given to the men; and as we were now to carry everything by +a coup-de-main, twenty rounds of ammunition were added to the sixty +with which soldiers are usually loaded; whilst a smaller quantity of +other baggage was directed to be taken on shore. A blanket, with a +spare shirt and pair of shoes, was considered enough for each man on an +expedition of so rapid a nature; whilst brushes and other articles of +that description were divided between comrades, one carrying what would +suffice for both. Thus the additional load of twenty cartridges was +more than counterbalanced by the clothing and necessaries left behind. + +It was dusk when we reached the anchorage, consequently no landing +could take place before the morrow. But as the boats were ordered to be +in readiness at dawn, every man slept in his clothes, that he might be +prepared to start at a moment’s warning. There was something in this +state of preparation at once solemn and exciting. That we should obtain +possession of a place so important as Baltimore without fighting was +not to be expected; and, therefore, this arming and this bustle seemed +in fact to be the prelude to a battle. But no man of the smallest +reflection can look forward to the chance of a sudden and violent death +without experiencing sensations very different from those which he +experiences under any other circumstances. When the battle has fairly +begun, I may say with truth that the feelings of those engaged are +delightful; because they are in fact so many gamblers playing for the +highest stake that can be offered. But the stir and noise of equipping, +and then the calmness and stillness of expectation, these are the +things which force a man to think. On the other hand, the warlike +appearance of everything about you, the careless faces and rude jokes +of the private soldiers, and something within yourself, which I can +compare to nothing more seemly than the mirth which criminals are said +sometimes to experience and to express previous to their execution; all +these combine to give you a degree of false hilarity, I had almost said +painful from its very excess. It is an agitation of the nerves, such as +we may suppose madmen feel, which you are inclined to wish removed, +though you are not unwilling to admit that it is agreeable. + +And yet, as if in mockery of these deadly preparations, I do not +recollect to have seen a more heavenly night than the present. The heat +of the day was past, a full clear moon shone brightly in a sky where +not a cloud could be discerned, and a heavy dew falling appeared to +refresh the earth, which had been parched and burnt up by the sun. We +lay at this time within two miles of the shore, consequently every +object there was distinctly visible. Around us were moored numerous +ships, which, breaking the tide as it flowed gently onwards, produced a +ceaseless murmur like the gushing of a mountain stream. The voices of +the sentinels too, as they relieved one another on the decks, and the +occasional splash of oars, as a solitary boat rowed backwards and +forwards to the Admiral’s ship for orders, sounded peculiarly musical +in the perfect stillness of a calm night. Though I am far from giving +the preference, in all respects, to a sailor’s life, it must +nevertheless be confessed that it has in it many moments of exquisite +enjoyment, and the present seemed to me to be of the number. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MARCH + + +But the stillness of night soon passed away, and at three o’clock in +the morning every ship in the fleet began to lower her boats, and the +soldiers were roused from their slumbers. The same precautions which +had been formerly used to cover the landing were again adopted, several +gun-brigs laying themselves within cable’s length of the beach, and the +leading boats in every division being armed with carronades, loaded and +ready for action. But, as had been the case at St. Benedict’s, they +were unnecessary, for the troops reached the shore without opposition, +and leisurely formed in an open field close to the river. + +It was seven o’clock before the whole army was disembarked and in order +for marching. The same arrangements which had been made on the late +expedition were, as far as circumstances would permit, again adopted on +this. The light brigade, now commanded by Major Jones of the 4th +regiment, led the advance; then followed the artillery, amounting to +six field-pieces and two howitzers, all of them drawn by horses; next +came the second brigade, then the sailors, and last of all the third +brigade. Flank patrols and reconnoitring parties were likewise sent +out; in short, the same admirable dispositions regulated the present +march which had governed our march to Washington. + +The column being put in motion, advanced, without the occurrence of any +incident deserving of notice, for about an hour, when it arrived at a +piece of ground which appeared as if it had been lately in possession +of the enemy. It was a narrow neck of land, confined between the river +on one side, and the head of a creek on the other, measuring, perhaps, +a mile across. From the river to the creek a breastwork had been begun, +and was partly completed. In front of it there were lines drawn, +apparently for the purpose of marking out the width of a ditch; in some +places the ditch itself was dug, and the commencement of what resembled +an enfilading battery in the centre, showed that a considerable degree +of science had been displayed in the choice of this spot as a military +position. And, in truth, it was altogether such a position as, if +completed, might have been maintained by a determined force against +very superior numbers. Both flanks were completely protected, not only +by water, but by thick wood, while a gentle eminence in the very middle +of the line offered the most desirable situation for the projecting +battery which had been begun; because a fire from it would have swept +the whole, both to the right and left. In its present state, however, +it was untenable, unless by a force as able to attack as to defend; +consequently the Americans, who acted solely on the defensive, did +wisely in choosing another. + +But the aspect of the ground was such as led us to conclude that the +enemy could not be very distant. The troops were accordingly halted, +that the rear might be well up, and the men fresh and ready for action. +Whilst this was done part of the flank patrol came in, bringing with +them three light-horse men, as prisoners. These were young gentlemen +belonging to a corps of volunteers, furnished by the town of Baltimore, +who had been sent out to watch our motions, and convey intelligence to +the American General. Being but little accustomed to such service, they +had suffered themselves to be surprised; and, instead of reporting to +their own leader as to the number and dispositions of their +adversaries, they were now catechized by General Ross respecting the +strength and preparations of their friends. From them we learned that a +force of no less than twenty thousand men was embodied for the defence +of Baltimore; but as the accounts of prisoners are generally +over-rated, we took it for granted that they made their report only to +intimidate. + +ATTACK + +Having rested for the space of an hour, we again moved forward, but had +not proceeded above a mile when a sharp fire of musketry was heard in +front, and shortly afterwards a mounted officer came galloping to the +rear, who desired us to quicken our pace, for that the advanced guard +was engaged. At this intelligence the ranks were closed, and the troops +advanced at a brisk rate, and in profound silence. The firing still +continued, though, from its running and irregular sound, it promised +little else than a skirmish; but whether it was kept up by detached +parties alone, or by the outposts of a regular army, we could not tell; +because, from the quantity of wood with which the country abounded, and +the total absence of all hills or eminences, it was impossible to +discern what was going on at the distance of half a mile from the spot +where we stood. + +We were already drawing near to the scene of action, when another +officer came at full speed towards us, with horror and dismay in his +countenance, and calling loudly for a surgeon. Every man felt within +himself that all was not right, though none was willing to believe the +whispers of his own terror. But what at first we would not guess at, +because we dreaded it so much, was soon realized; for the aide-de-camp +had scarcely passed, when the General’s horse, without its rider, and +with the saddle and housings stained with blood, came plunging onwards. +Nor was much time given for fearful surmise as to the extent of our +misfortune. In a few moments we reached the ground where the +skirmishing had taken place, and beheld General Ross laid by the side +of the road, under a canopy of blankets, and apparently in the agonies +of death. As soon as the firing began, he had ridden to the front, that +he might ascertain from whence it originated, and, mingling with the +skirmishers, was shot in the side by a rifleman. The wound was mortal: +he fell into the arms of his aide-de-camp, and lived only long enough +to name his wife, and to commend his family to the protection of his +country. He was removed towards the fleet, but expired before his +bearers could reach the boats. + +It is impossible to conceive the effect which this melancholy spectacle +produced throughout the army. By the courteousness and condescension of +his manners, General Ross had secured the absolute love of all who +served under him, from the highest to the lowest; and his success on a +former occasion, as well as his judicious arrangements on the present, +had inspired every one with the most perfect confidence in his +abilities. His very error, if error it may be called, in so young a +leader—I mean that diffidence in himself which had occasioned some loss +of time on the march to Washington, appeared now to have left him. His +movements were at once rapid and cautious; nay, his very countenance +indicated a fixed determination, and a perfect security of success. All +eyes were turned upon him as we passed, and a sort of involuntary groan +ran from rank to rank, from the front to the rear of the column. + +By the fall of our gallant leader, the command now devolved upon +Colonel Brook, of the 44th regiment, an officer of decided personal +courage, but, perhaps, better calculated to lead a battalion than to +guide an army. Being informed of his unexpected and undesired +elevation, he came to the front, and under him we continued to move on; +sorrowful, indeed, but not dejected. The skirmishing had now ceased, +for the American riflemen were driven in; and in a few minutes we found +ourselves opposite to a considerable force, drawn up with some skill, +and occupying a strong position. Judging from appearances, I should say +that the corps now opposed to us amounted to six or seven thousand men. +They covered a neck of land, very much resembling that which we had +passed; having both flanks defended by little inland lakes; the whole +of their position was well wooded, and in front of their line was a +range of high palings, similar to those which intersected the field of +Bladensburg. About the centre, though some way advanced, was a +farm-house, with its outbuildings and stack-yard; and near to the right +ran the main road. Their artillery, which could not greatly exceed our +own, either in weight of metal or number of guns, was scattered along +the line of infantry in nearly the same order as had been preserved at +Bladensburg, and their reserve was partly seen, and partly hid by a +thick wood. + +The whole of this country is flat and unbroken. About half a mile in +rear of the enemy’s position were some heights, but to occupy these as +they should be occupied would have required a much greater number of +men than the American army could muster. Their General, therefore, +exhibited some judgment in his choice of ground, but, perhaps, he would +have exhibited more had he declined a pitched battle altogether. Yet, +to do him justice, I repeat that the ground was well chosen; for, +besides the covering of wood which he secured for his own people, he +took care to leave open fields in his front; by which means we were of +necessity exposed to a galling fire, as soon as we came within range. +Of one error, however, he was guilty. Either he did not possess himself +of the farm-house at all, or he suffered it to be taken from him with +very little resistance; for on the arrival of the column at the ground +where it was to form, it was in the occupation of our advanced guard. +He was likewise to blame in not filling the wood upon our left with +skirmishers. In short, he acted unwisely in merely attempting to repel +attacks, without ever dreaming that the most effectual mode of so doing +is to turn the tables, and attack the assailants. + +As our troops came up they filed off to the right and left, and drew up +just within cannon shot in the following order. The light brigade, +consisting, as I have formerly stated, of the 85th regiment and the +light companies of the other corps, in extended order, threatened the +whole front of the American army. The 21st remained in column upon the +road; the 4th moved off to the right, and advanced through a thicket to +turn the enemy’s left; and the 44th, the seamen and marines, formed +line in rear of the light brigade. + +While this formation was going on, the artillery being brought up, +opened upon the American army, and a smart cannonade ensued on both +sides. That our guns were well served I myself can bear witness; for I +saw the Shrapnel shells which were thrown from them strike among the +enemy, and make fearful gaps in the line. Our rockets likewise began to +play, one of which falling short, lighted upon a haystack in the +barn-yard belonging to the farm-house, and immediately set it on fire. +The house itself, the stables, barns, and outhouses, as well as all the +other stacks, one after another caught the flames, and were quickly in +a state of conflagration; and the smoke and blaze which they emitted, +together with the roar of cannon and flashes of the guns, produced +altogether a very fine effect. + +In the meantime the American artillery was not idle. Pushing forward +two light field-pieces upon the road, they opened a destructive fire of +grape upon the 21st regiment, and such of the sailors as occupied that +point. Three other guns were directed against our artillery, between +which and several of our pieces a sort of duel was maintained; and the +rest played without ceasing upon the 85th and the light companies, who +had lain down while the other regiments took up their ground. Neither +was their infantry altogether quiet. They marched several strong bodies +from the right to the left, and withdrew others from the left to the +right of their line, though for what end this marching and +countermarching was undertaken I am at a loss to conceive. While thus +fluctuating it was curious to observe their dread of every spot where a +cannon-ball had struck. Having seen the shots fall, I kept my eye upon +one or two places, and perceived that each company as it drew near to +those points hung back; and then assuming as it were a momentary +courage, rushed past, leaving a vacancy between it and the company +which next succeeded. + +All this while the whole of our infantry, except the 4th regiment, lay +or stood in anxious expectation of an order to advance. This, however, +was not given till that corps had reached the thicket through which it +was to make its way; when Colonel Brook, with his staff, having +galloped along the line to see that all was ready, commanded the signal +to be made. The charge was accordingly sounded, and echoed back from +every bugle in the army, when, starting from the ground where they had +lain, the troops moved on in a cool and orderly manner. A dreadful +discharge of grape and canister shot, of old locks, pieces of broken +muskets, and everything which they could cram into their guns, was now +sent forth from the whole of the enemy’s artillery, and some loss was +on our side experienced. Regardless of this, our men went on without +either quickening or retarding their pace, till they came within a +hundred yards of the American line. As yet not a musket had been fired, +nor a word spoken on either side, but the enemy, now raising a shout, +fired a volley from right to left, and then kept up a rapid and +ceaseless discharge of musketry. Nor were our people backward in +replying to these salutes; for giving them back both their shout and +their volley, we pushed on at double-quick, with the intention of +bringing them to the charge. + +The bayonet is a weapon peculiarly British; at least it is a weapon +which in the hands of a British soldier is irresistible. Though they +maintained themselves with great determination, and stood to receive +our fire till scarcely twenty yards divided us, the Americans would not +hazard a charge. On the left, indeed, where the 21st advanced in +column, it was not without much difficulty and a severe loss that any +attempt to charge could be made; for in that quarter seemed to be the +flower of the enemy’s infantry, as well as the main body of their +artillery; towards the right, however, the day was quickly won. The +only thing to be regretted, indeed, was that the attack had not been +for some time longer deferred; because the Americans were broken and +fled, just as the 4th regiment began to show itself upon the brink of +the water which covered their flank; and before a shallow part could be +discovered, and the troops were enabled to pass, they had time to +escape. + +As soon as their left gave way, the whole American army fell into +confusion; nor do I recollect on any occasion to have witnessed a more +complete rout. Infantry, cavalry, and artillery were huddled together, +without the smallest regard to order or regularity. The sole object of +anxiety seemed to be, which should escape first from the field of +battle; insomuch, that numbers were actually trodden down by their +countrymen in the hurry of the flight. Yet, in spite of the short +duration of the action, which lasted little more than two hours from +its first commencement, the enemy’s loss was severe. They stood in some +respects better than at Bladensburg, consequently we were more mingled +with them when they gave way, and were thus enabled to secure some +prisoners, an event which their more immediate flight had on the other +occasion prevented. In the capture of guns, however, we were not so +fortunate. Their pieces being light, and well supplied with horses, +they contrived to carry off all except two; both of which would have +also escaped but for the shooting of the leaders. + +I have said that the number of killed and wounded in the American army +was very great; in ours, on the other hand, the casualties were fewer +by far than might have been expected. The 21st and seamen suffered a +good deal, the 85th and light companies a little; but had our gallant +General been spared, we should have pronounced this a glorious, because +a comparatively bloodless day. In the loss of that one man, however, we +felt ourselves more deeply wounded than if the best battalion in the +army had been sacrificed. + +In following up the flying enemy the same obstacles which presented +themselves at Bladensburg again came in the way. The thick woods +quickly screened the fugitives, and as even our mounted drivers were +wanting, their horses having been taken for the use of the artillery, +no effectual pursuit could be attempted. We accordingly halted upon the +field of battle, of necessity content with the success which we had +obtained; and having collected the stragglers and called in the +pursuers, it was resolved to pass the night in this situation. Fires +were speedily lighted, and the troops distributed in such a manner as +to secure a tolerable position in case of attack; and the wounded being +removed into two or three houses scattered along the ground, the +victors lay down to sleep under the canopy of heaven. + +Having thus given a distinct and connected detail of this affair, I +shall beg leave to finish the present chapter with one or two +anecdotes, which may not be unamusing. It is said that when Admiral +Cockburn, who accompanied the army, and attended General Ross with the +fidelity of an aide-de-camp, was in the wood where the latter fell, he +observed an American rifleman taking deliberate aim at him from behind +a tree. Instead of turning aside, or discharging a pistol at the +fellow, as any other man would have done, the brave Admiral, doubling +his fist, shook it at his enemy, and cried aloud, “O you d—d Yankee, +I’ll give it you!” upon which the man dropped his musket in the +greatest alarm, and took to his heels. + +It is likewise told of an officer of engineers, that having overtaken +an American soldier, and demanded his arms, the fellow gave him his +rifle very readily, but being ordered to resign a handsome +silver-hilted dagger and silver-mounted cartouch-box, which graced his +side, he refused to comply, alleging that they were private property, +and that, by our own proclamations, private property should be +respected. This was an instance of low cunning which reminded me of my +own adventure with the squirrel-hunters, and which was attended with +equal success. + +One other anecdote, of a different nature, and for the truth of which I +can myself answer, may likewise be related. In strolling over the field +of battle, I came unexpectedly upon a wounded American, who lay among +some bushes with his leg broken. I drew near to offer him assistance, +but on seeing me the wretch screamed out, and appeared in the greatest +alarm; nor was it without some difficulty that I could persuade him he +had nothing to fear. At last, being convinced that I intended him no +harm, the fellow informed me that it was impressed upon the minds of +the American levies that from the British they might expect no quarter; +and that it was consequently their determination to give no quarter to +the British troops. The fellow might belie his countrymen, and I hope +and believe he did, but such was his report to me. To convince him of +the erroneousness of his notions, I removed him to one of our +hospitals, where his leg was amputated; and he saw himself, as well as +many others of his wounded comrades, treated with the same attention +which was bestowed upon our own soldiers. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + +At an early hour on the 13th the troops were roused from their lairs, +and forming upon the ground, waited till daylight should appear. A +heavy rain had come on about midnight, and now fell with so much +violence, that some precautions were necessary, in order to prevent the +firelocks from being rendered useless by wet. Such of the men as were +fortunate enough to possess leathern cases, wrapped them round the +locks of their muskets, whilst the rest held them in the best manner +they could, under their elbows; no man thinking of himself, but only +how he could best keep his arms in a serviceable condition. + +As soon as the first glimmering of dawn could be discerned, we moved to +the road, and took up our wonted order of march; but before we pushed +forward, the troops were desired to lighten themselves still further, +by throwing off their blankets, which were to be left under a slender +guard till their return. This was accordingly done; and being now +unencumbered, except by a knapsack almost empty, every man felt his +spirits heightened in proportion to the diminution of his load. The +grief of soldiers is seldom of long duration, and though I will not +exactly say that poor Ross was already forgotten, the success of +yesterday had reconciled at least the privates to the guidance of their +new leader; nor was any other issue anticipated than what would have +attended the excursion had he still been its mainspring and director. + +The country through which we passed resembled, in every particular, +that already described. Wood and cultivation succeeded each other at +intervals, though the former surpassed the latter in tenfold extent; +but instead of deserted villages and empty houses, which had met us on +the way to Washington, we found most of the inhabitants remaining +peaceably in their homes, and relying upon the assurance of protection +given to them in our proclamations. Nor had they cause to repent of +that confidence. In no instance were they insulted, plundered, or +ill-treated; whereas every house which was abandoned fell a prey to the +scouts and reconnoitring parties. + +But our march to-day was not so rapid as our motions generally were. +The Americans had at last adopted an expedient which, if carried to its +proper length, might have entirely stopped our progress. In most of the +woods they had felled trees, and thrown them across the road; but as +these abattis were without defenders, we experienced no other +inconvenience than what arose from loss of time; being obliged to halt +on all such occasions till the pioneers had removed the obstacle. So +great, however, was even this hinderance, that we did not come in sight +of the main army of the Americans till evening, although the distance +travelled could not exceed ten miles. + +It now appeared that the corps which we had beaten yesterday was only a +detachment, and not a large one, from the force collected for the +defence of Baltimore; and that the account given by the volunteer +troopers was in every respect correct. Upon a ridge of hills, which +concealed the town itself from observation, stood the grand army, +consisting of twenty thousand men. Not trusting to his superiority in +numbers, their General had there entrenched them in the most formidable +manner, having covered the whole face of the heights with breastworks, +thrown back his left so as to rest it upon a strong fort erected for +the protection of the river, and constructed a chain of field redoubts +which covered his right and commanded the entire ascent. Along the side +of the hill were likewise _flèches_ and other projecting works, from +which a cross fire might be kept up; and there were mounted throughout +this commanding position no less than one hundred pieces of cannon. + +It would be absurd to suppose that the sight of preparations so warlike +did not in some degree damp the ardour of our leader; at least it would +have been madness to storm such works without pausing to consider how +it might best be attempted. The whole of the country within cannon-shot +was cleared from wood, and laid out in grass and corn-fields; +consequently there was no cover to shelter an attacking army from any +part of the deadly fire which would be immediately poured upon it. The +most prudent plan, therefore, was to wait till dark; and then, assisted +by the frigates and bombs, which he hoped were by this time ready to +co-operate, to try the fortune of a battle. + +Having resolved thus to act, Colonel Brook halted his army; and, +secured against surprise by a well-connected line of piquets, the +troops were permitted to light fires and to cook their provisions. But +though the rain still fell in torrents, no shelter could be obtained; +and as even their blankets were no longer at hand, with which to form +gipsy-tents, this was the reverse of an agreeable bivouac to the whole +army. + +Darkness had now come on, and as yet no intelligence had arrived from +the shipping. To assail such a position, however, without the aid of +the fleet, was deemed impracticable; at least our chance of success +would be greatly diminished without their co-operation. As the left of +the American army extended to a fort built upon the very brink of the +river, it was clear that could the ships be brought to bear upon that +point, and the fort be silenced by their fire, that flank of the +position would be turned. This once effected, there would be no +difficulty in pushing a column within their works; and as soldiers +entrenched always place more reliance upon the strength of their +entrenchments than upon their own personal exertions, the very sight of +our people on a level with them would in all probability decide the +contest. At all events, as the column was to advance under cover of +night, it might easily push forward and crown the hill above the enemy, +before any effectual opposition could be offered; by which means they +would be enclosed between two fires, and lose the advantage which their +present elevated situation bestowed. All, however, depended upon the +ability of the fleet to lend their assistance; for without silencing +the fort, this flank could scarcely be assailed with any chance of +success, and, therefore, the whole plan of operations must be changed. + +SEARCH. + +Having waited till it was considered imprudent to wait longer, without +knowing whether he was to be supported, Colonel Brook determined, if +possible, to open a communication with the fleet. That the river could +not be far off we knew, but how to get to it without falling in with +wandering parties of the enemy was the difficulty. The thing, however, +must be done; and as secrecy, and not force, was the main object, it +was resolved to dispatch for the purpose a single officer without an +escort. On this service a particular friend of mine chanced to be +employed. Mounting his horse, he proceeded to the right of the army, +where, having delayed a few minutes till the moon rising gave light +enough through the clouds to distinguish objects, he pushed forward at +a venture, in as straight a line as he could guess at. It was not long +before his progress was stopped by a high hedge. Like knight-errants of +old, he then gave himself up to the guidance of his horse, which taking +him towards the rear, soon brought him into a narrow lane, that +appeared to wind in the direction of the enemy’s fort: this lane he +determined to follow, and holding a cocked pistol in his hand, pushed +on, not perhaps entirely comfortable, but desirous at all hazards of +executing his commission. He had not ridden far, when the sound of +voices through the splashing of the rain arrested his attention. +Pulling up, he listened in silence, and soon discovered that they came +from two American soldiers, whether stragglers or sentinels it was +impossible to divine; but whoever they were, they seemed to be +approaching. It now struck him that his safest course would be to +commence the attack, and having therefore waited till he saw them stop +short, as if they had perceived him, he rode forward, and called out to +them to surrender. The fellows turned and fled, but galloping after +them, he overtook one, at whose head he presented a pistol, and who +instantly threw down his rifle, and yielded himself prisoner; whilst +the other, dashing into a thicket, escaped, probably to tell that he +had been attacked by a whole regiment of British cavalry. Having thus +taken a prisoner, my friend resolved to make him of some use; with this +view he commanded him to lay hold of his thigh, and to guide him +directly to the river, threatening, if he attempted to mislead or +betray him into the hands of the Americans, that he would instantly +blow out his brains. Finding himself completely in my friend’s power, +the fellow could not refuse to obey; and accordingly, the man resting +his hand upon the left thigh of the officer, they proceeded along the +lane for some time, till they came to a part where it branched off in +two directions. My friend here stopped for a moment; and again repeated +his threat, swearing that the instant his conduct became suspicious +should be the last of his life. The soldier assured him that he would +keep his word, and moreover informed him that some of our ships were +almost within gun-shot of the fort; a piece of information which was +quickly confirmed by the sound of firing, and the appearance of shells +in the air. They now struck to the right, and in half an hour gained +the brink of the river: where my friend found a party just landed from +the squadron, and preparing to seek their way towards the camp. By them +he was conducted to the Admiral, from whom he learnt that no effectual +support could be given to the land force; for such was the shallowness +of the river, that none except the very lightest craft could make their +way within six miles of the town; and even these were stopped by +vessels sunk in the channel, and other artificial bars, barely within a +shell’s longest range of the fort. With this unwelcome news he was +accordingly forced to return; and taking his unwilling guide along with +him, he made his way, without any adventure, to our advanced posts; +where, having thanked the fellow for his fidelity, he rewarded it more +effectually by setting him at liberty. + +Having brought his report to head-quarters, a council of war was +instantly summoned to deliberate upon what was best to be done. Without +the help of the fleet, it was evident that, adopt what plan of attack +we could, our loss must be such as to counterbalance even success +itself; whilst success, under existing circumstances, was, to say the +least of it, doubtful. And even if we should succeed, what would be +gained by it? We could not remove anything from Baltimore, for want of +proper conveyances. Had the ships been able to reach the town, then, +indeed, the quantity of booty might have repaid the survivors for their +toil, and consoled them for the loss of comrades; but as the case now +stood, we should only fight to give us an opportunity of reacting +/re-enacting?/ the scenes of Washington. To distress an enemy is, no +/doubt, +desirable, but, in the present instance, that distress, even if brought +upon the Americans, would cost us dear; whereas, if we failed, it was +hardly possible to avoid destruction. + +MARCH. + +Such was the reasoning which influenced the council of war to decide +that all idea of storming the enemy’s lines should be given up. To draw +them from their works would require manoeuvring, and manoeuvring +requires time; but delays were all in their favour, and could not +possibly advantage us. Every hour brought in reinforcements to their +army, whereas ours had no source from which even to recruit its losses; +and it was, therefore, deemed prudent, since we could not fight at +once, to lose no time in returning to the shipping. + +About three hours after midnight the troops were accordingly formed +upon the road, and began their retreat, leaving the piquets to deceive +the enemy, and to follow, as a rear-guard. The rain, which had +continued with little interruption since the night before, now ceased, +and the moon shone out bright and clear. We marched along, therefore, +not in the same spirits as if we had been advancing, but feeling no +debasement at having thus relinquished an enterprise so much beyond our +strength. + +When the day broke, our piquets, which had withdrawn about an hour +before, rejoined us, and we went on in a body. Marching over the field +where the battle of the 12th had been fought, we beheld the dead +scattered about, and still unburied; but so far different from those +which we had seen at Bladensburg, that they were not stripped, every +man lying as he had fallen. One object, however, struck me as curious. +I saw several men hanging lifeless among the branches of trees, and +learnt that they had been riflemen, who chose, during the battle, to +fix themselves in these elevated situations, for the combined purposes +of securing a good aim and avoiding danger. Whatever might be their +success in the first of these designs, in the last they failed; for our +men soon discovered them, and, considering the thing as unfair, refused +to give them quarter, and shot them on their perches. + +Here we paused for about an hour, that the soldiers might collect their +blankets and refresh themselves; when we again moved forward, passing +the wood where the gallant Ross was killed. It was noon, and as yet all +had gone on smoothly with out any check or alarm. So little indeed was +pursuit dreamt of, that the column began to straggle, and to march +without much regard to order; when suddenly the bugle sounded from the +rear, and immediately after some musket shots were heard. In an instant +the men were in their places, and the regiments wheeled into line, +facing towards the enemy. The artillery turned round and advanced to +the front; indeed I have never seen a manoeuvre more coolly or more +steadily performed on a parade in England than this rally. The alarm, +however, turned out to be groundless, being occasioned only by the +sudden appearance of a squadron of horse, which had been sent out by +the American General to track our steps. These endeavoured to charge +the rear-guard, and succeeded in making two prisoners; but a single +Shrapnel checked their farther advance, and sent them back at full +speed to boast of the brave exploit which they had performed. + +Seeing that no attack was seriously intended, the army broke once more +into the line of march, and proceeded to a favourable piece of ground, +near the uncompleted position which I have already described, where we +passed the night under little tents made with blankets and ramrods. No +alarm occurring, nor any cause of delay appearing, at daybreak we again +got under arms, and pushed on towards the shipping, which in two hours +were distinguishable. + +RE-EMBARKATION. + +The infantry now halted upon a narrow neck of land, while the artillery +was lifted into boats, and conveyed on board the fleet. As soon as this +was done, brigade after brigade fell back to the water’s edge and +embarked, till finally all, except the light troops, were got off. +These being left to cover the embarkation, were extended across the +entire space which but a little before contained the whole army; but as +no attempt was made to molest them, they had only the honour of being +the last to quit the shore. + +Were I to enter into a review of the military proceedings in this +expedition, I should be condemned to repeat, almost word for word, the +remarks which I ventured to make upon the operations previous to the +capture of Washington. On the present occasion, however, neither +hesitation nor precipitancy was displayed by the British General. He +threw his valuable life away, indeed, by exposing his person +unnecessarily in a trifling skirmish; but who will blame a soldier for +excess of courage, or a leader for excess of alertness? Like other able +men, he was unwilling to trust to the report of his subalterns, when it +was in his power to ascertain what he sought to know by personal +observation; and, like other brave men, he would not be deterred from +prosecuting his design by the apprehension of danger. In the plan of +the expedition here, he displayed both skill and resolution. Instead of +wasting time by an attempt to ascend the river, he chose to land where +he was least likely to meet with immediate opposition; and such was the +celerity of his motions, that, had he lived, the chances are that we +should have fought two battles in one day. But of what a man might have +done, I have nothing to say; let me rather do justice to his successor +and his advisers. Of these latter, there is one whom it would be +improper not to mention by name—I mean Lieutenant Evans, +Deputy-Assistant Quartermaster-General. The whole arrangement of our +troops in order of battle was committed to him; and the judicious +method in which they were drawn up, proved that he was not unworthy of +the trust. With respect to the determination of the council of war, I +choose to be silent. Certain it is, that the number of our forces would +hardly authorise any desperate attempt; yet had the attempt been made, +I have very little doubt that it would have been made successfully. + +On the part of the Americans, again, the same blunders were committed +which marked their proceedings during the incursion to Washington, with +this exception, that more science was displayed now than formerly in +the distribution of their forces along their principal position. At +Bladensburg, indeed, there existed no works, and the troops were badly +arranged in an open country: here there were not only fortifications, +but fortifications constructed in a scientific manner, and troops drawn +up in such order, as that, even without their works, many cross fires +would have protected their front. But they neglected numerous +favourable opportunities of harassing both our advance and retreat. +They felled trees, but left no guards to keep them from being removed, +and took no advantage of the delays which their removal created. They +risked a battle with a part of their army, when there was no necessity +for it; in a word, they committed all those errors which men generally +commit who are not soldiers, and yet love war. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +THE PATUXENT. + + +Having once more received the troops on board, the fleet remained +quietly at anchor till the 17th, when, at an early hour, we set sail +and stood towards the Patuxent. In this voyage we passed close to Sent +Island, and again threw the inhabitants of Anapolis into alarm by +approaching almost within gun-shot of their town; but at neither place +were hostilities attempted, and on the 19th we arrived, without any +adventure, at our former anchorage in the river. Here we brought up, +and parties were sent on shore to dig wells in the sand, to which the +boats resorted in great numbers for water. Cattle and sheep were +likewise purchased from the natives; some of the flour which had been +captured was converted into biscuit; and every preparation seemed to be +making for a long voyage. + +To facilitate these operations, the fleet now separated, part remaining +here, and part proceeding under Admiral Malcolm to the Potomac; whilst +Sir Alexander Cochrane, in the Tonnant, with several frigates and +gun-brigs, quitted us altogether, and set sail, as it was given out, +for Halifax. But our situation was by no means agreeable. The climate +of this part of America is, at certain seasons, far from healthy; and +the prevalence of dysentery through the armament proved that the +unhealthy season had already commenced. Neither did there appear to be +any prospect of further employment. No one talked of a future +enterprise, nor was the slightest rumour circulated as to the next +point of attack. The death of General Ross seemed to have disorganized +the whole plan of proceedings, and the fleet and army rested idle, like +a watch without its main spring. + +Whilst things were in this state, whilst the banks of the rivers +continued in our possession, and the interior was left unmolested to +the Americans, a rash confidence sprang up in the minds of all, +insomuch that parties of pleasure would frequently land without arms, +and spend many hours onshore. On one of these occasions, several +officers from the 85th regiment agreed to pass a day together at a +farm-house, about a quarter of a mile from the stream; and taking with +them ten soldiers, unarmed, to row the boat, a few sailors, and a young +midshipman, not more than twelve years of age, they proceeded to put +their determination into practice. Leaving the men, under the command +of their youthful pilot, to take care of the boat, the officers went on +to the house; but they had not remained there above an hour, when they +were alarmed by a shout, which sounded as if it came from the river. +Looking, out, they beheld their party surrounded by seventy or eighty +mounted riflemen; the boat dragged upon the beach, and set on fire. +Giving themselves up for lost, they continued for an instant in a sort +of stupor; but the master of the house, to whom some kindness had been +shown by our people, proved himself grateful, and, letting them out by +a back door, directed them to bide themselves in the wood, whilst he +should endeavour to turn their pursuers on a wrong scent. As they had +nothing to trust to except the honour of this American, it cannot be +supposed that they felt much at ease; but, seeing no better course +before them, they resigned themselves to his guidance, and plunging +into the thicket, concealed themselves as well as they could among the +underwood. In the mean time the American soldiers, having secured all +that were left behind, except the young midshipman, who fled into the +wood in spite of their fire, divided into two bodies, one of which +approached the house, whilst the other endeavoured to overtake the +brave boy. It so chanced that the party in pursuit passed close to the +officers in concealment, but by the greatest good fortune failed to +observe them. They succeeded, however, in catching a glimpse of the +midshipman, just as he had gained the water’s edge, and was pushing off +a light canoe which he had loosened from the stump of a tree. The +barbarians immediately gave chase, firing at the brave lad, and calling +out to surrender; but the gallant youth paid no attention either to +their voices or their bullets. Launching his little bark, he put to sea +with a single paddle, and, regardless of the showers of balls which +fell about him, returned alone and unhurt to the ship. Whilst one party +was thus employed, the other hastened to the house in full expectation +of capturing the British officers. But their host kept his word with +great fidelity, and, having directed his countrymen towards another +farm-house at some distance from his own, and in an opposite quarter +from the spot where his guests lay, he waited till they were out of +sight, and then joined his new friends in their lurking-place. Bringing +with him such provisions as he could muster, he advised them to keep +quiet till dark, when, their pursuers having departed, he conducted +them to the river, supplied them with a large canoe, and sent them off +in perfect safety to the fleet. + +On reaching their ship, they found the 85th regiment under arms, and +preparing to land, for the purpose of either releasing their comrades +from captivity, or inflicting exemplary punishment upon the farmer by +whose treachery it was supposed that they had suffered. But when the +particulars of his behaviour were related, the latter alternative was +at once abandoned; and it was determined to force a dismissal of the +captives, by advancing up the country, and laying waste every thing +with fire and sword. The whole of the light brigade was accordingly +carried on shore, and halted on the beach, whilst a messenger was sent +forward to demand back the prisoners. Such, however, was the effect of +his threatening, that the demand was at once complied with, and they +returned on board without having committed any ravages, or marched +above two miles from the boats. + +THE POTOMAC + +Besides this trifling debarkation, another little excursion was made by +the second and third brigades, the light troops being left most +unaccountably on board of ship, Colonel Brook, having heard that an +encampment was formed a few miles from the left bank of the Potomac, +determined, if possible, to come up with and engage the force there +stationed. With this view, two brigades were landed on the night of the +4th of October, and pushed forward at a brisk pace; but the enemy, +being on the alert, had timely notice of the movement, and retired; by +which means our people returned on the 5th, without effecting anything. + +THE CHESAPEAKE. + +By this time the whole fleet was once more collected together; and +crowded the Potomac with their keels. The Diadem being an old ship and +a bad sailer, it was determined to remove from her the troops which she +had formerly carried, to fill her with American prisoners, and to send +her to England. The Menelaus was likewise dispatched with such officers +and soldiers as required the benefit of their native air to complete +the cure of their wounds; and the rest, getting under weigh on the 6th, +stood directly towards the mouth of the Chesapeake. When we reached the +James River, we anchored, and were joined by an American schooner +bearing a flag of truce. She brought with her Colonel Thornton, Lieut. +Colonel Wood, with the rest of the officers and men who had been left +behind at Bladensburg, and, being under the guidance of Commodore +Barney, that gentleman was enabled to discharge his trust even to the +very letter. + +It may readily be supposed that the meeting between friends thus +restored to each other was very agreeable. But there was another source +of comfort which this arrival communicated, of greater importance than +the pleasure bestowed upon individuals. In Colonel Thornton we felt +that we had recovered a dashing and enterprising officer; one as well +calculated to lead a corps of light troops, and to guide the advance of +an army, as any in the service. On the whole, therefore, the American +schooner was as welcome as if she had been a first-rate man-of-war +filled with reinforcements from England. + +The wounded being now sent off, and Colonel Wood among the number, the +remainder of the fleet again set sail, and reached the mouth of the bay +without interruption. Here they were met by a frigate and two brigs, +which spoke to the Admiral, and apparently communicated some important +intelligence; for we immediately put about and stood once more up the +Chesapeake. The wind, however, blew with great violence, and directly +against us. After beating about, therefore, for some time, without +making any progress, we turned our heads towards the ocean, and flying +between the Capes with amazing velocity, stood out to sea, directing +our course towards the S.S.E., and proceeding at the rate of seven +miles an hour under bare poles. The sea ran tremendously high, and the +sky was dark and dreary; insomuch that by a landsman the gale might +safely be accounted a storm. Under these circumstances, the ship +rolling as if she would dip her topmasts in the water, and the waves +breaking in at the back windows of the cabin, nothing remained to be +done but to go to bed. Thither most of us accordingly repaired, and +holding ourselves in our berths by clinging to the posts, we amused +ourselves by watching the motions of stools, books, trunks, and other +articles, as they floated majestically from one side of the cabin to +the other. But the effects of the gale were not in every respect +ludicrous. Two small schooners, which had been captured at Alexandria +and converted into tenders, foundered and went down, without an +opportunity being afforded of saving an individual of their crews. + +AT SEA. + +At length the wind began to moderate, and on the 18th there was a dead +calm. In point of comfort, however, I cannot say that much change was +experienced; for though the gale had ceased, the swell still continued; +and the motion produced by a heavy sea after a storm is even more +disagreeable than that occasioned by the storm itself. But on this day +the minds of all were set at ease as to the place whither we were +going, a telegraph signal being made to steer for Jamaica. It was +likewise understood that we should be there joined by strong +reinforcements, and proceed upon a secret expedition against some place +on the southern borders of the United States. + +The calm which had succeeded the storm did not last long, for on the +19th a fair breeze sprang up, and sent us at a moderate and agreeable +rate upon our course. The heat, however, was most oppressive; even +awnings being unable to afford sufficient shelter. We were fast +approaching the tropic of Cancer, and every day experienced a greater +degree of sultriness; till at length, on the 25th, we crossed that +imaginary boundary. Here we were visited, according to custom, by +Neptune and his wife; and as the ceremony of shaving may be unknown to +some of my readers, I shall beg leave to relate the particulars of that +operation. + +A clever active seaman, dressed up grotesquely in party-coloured rags, +adorned with a long beard made of the stuff which sailors call +spun-yarn, and armed with a tri-pronged harpoon, personates the God of +the Ocean. Another seaman, arrayed in like manner, except that, instead +of a beard, he wears a hideous mask, performs the part of the lady. +These are attended by a troop of sea-gods and nymphs, similarly +equipped; and advancing from the bow of the vessel, as if just stepped +on board, they come forward to the mainmast, and summon before them all +such persons as have never sworn the oaths or previously visited their +capital. At the foot of the mast is placed a large tub full of +sea-water, and covered by a piece of canvas, which is held tight by +four of their attendants. Upon this unsteady throne is the luckless +wight, whom they design to initiate, compelled to sit; and being asked +several questions, which he cannot answer, and taking several oaths, +very much resembling those said to be administered at Highgate, Neptune +proceeds to confer upon him the honour of filiation, by rather an +extraordinary process. Two of the sea-nymphs, generally tall stout +fellows, pinion his arms to his sides; and another, bringing a bucket +filled with grease and slops from the kitchen, sets it down at his +godship’s feet, putting a small painting-brush into his hand. Neptune +now dips his brush into the filth, and proceeds to spread a lather over +the face of the novice, taking care to ask questions during the whole +process; and if the adopted be simple enough to reply, the brush is +instantly thrust into his mouth. As soon as a sufficient quantity of +grease is laid upon the face, Neptune seizes a piece of rusty iron, +generally the broken hoop of some water-cask, with which he scrapes off +all that has been applied. If the novice take all this patiently, his +face is washed, and he is permitted to descend from his throne in +peace; but if he lose his temper, which most men are apt to do, a +bucket of sea-water is poured upon his head. If this be sufficient to +cool his wrath, he suffers no more; but if it only increase his +indignation, bucket after bucket is emptied over him, and at last, the +holders of the sail-cloth suddenly retiring, he is plunged overhead +into the tub. To crown all, the unfortunate wretch who has endured +these miseries is fined by his tormentor in a gallon of ruin; a fine +which the force of custom compels him to pay. It must be confessed that +this is a barbarous amusement, much resembling that of the boys in the +fable of the boys and the frogs. Though very agreeable to those who act +and to the lookers on, it is not so to him that suffers. + +In this manner many persons were treated, till at length Neptune, +growing weary from the number of novices, was content to admit the rest +to the privileges of initiation, on condition that the fines should be +punctually paid; an agreement into which most of us very thankfully +entered. + +THE WEST INDIES. + +Next morning, the first object which met our eyes was the land of +Caycos island. We were so close to the shore, when daylight discovered +it, that had the wind been at all adverse we must unquestionably have +struck; but being assisted by a fair and gentle breeze, the ships put +about immediately, and escaped the danger. Standing out to sea, the +fleet now doubled the promontory, and steering round by the other side, +sailed on without losing sight of the land till late in the evening. + +On the following day, a signal was made from the Admiral’s ship, that +the Golden Fleece transport, under convoy of the Volcano bomb, should +proceed to Port Royal, whilst the rest of the fleet held their course +towards Negril Bay. These two vessels accordingly set all sail, and +pushed forward by themselves; the others keeping on at a more moderate +rate, that none might stray from the convoy: for the West India seas at +this time swarmed with American privateers, and it was of great +consequence to keep the store-ships and heavy transports in the middle +of the squadron. + +It so chanced that I took my passage in one of the two ships which +proceeded forward by themselves. The wind was fair, and we made great +progress, insomuch that before dark the high land of St. Domingo on one +side, and the mountains of Cuba on the other, were discernible. In +spite of the heat, therefore, our voyage soon became truly delightful. +Secure of getting on under the influence of the trade winds, we had +nothing to distract our thoughts, or keep us from feasting our eyes +upon the glorious shores of these two islands; whilst in addition to +the sight of land, which of itself was cheering, we were amused with +water-spouts, apparently playing about us in every direction. One of +these, however, began to form within a little distance of the ship, and +as they are dangerous as well as interesting, a cannon was got ready to +break it before it should reach us. But it did not complete its +formation, though I cannot tell why; for, after one spout had risen +into the air some height, and another bent down from the clouds to meet +it, they were suddenly carried away in different directions, and fell +into the sea with the noise of a cataract. + +Among other sources of amusement, our attention was drawn, on the 29th, +to a shark, which made its appearance at the stern of the vessel. A +strong hook was immediately prepared, and baited with a piece of salt +pork, which being thrown over, was instantly gulped by the voracious +monster. But as soon as he felt the pain occasioned by the book in his +jaws, he plunged towards the bottom of the sea with such violence, as +to render the very tafferel hot, by the rapidity of the cord gliding +over it. Having permitted him to go a certain length, he was again +hauled up to the surface, where he remained without offering further +resistance, till a boat was lowered, and a strong noose thrown over his +head. Being thus made fast to the gunwale of the boat, he was brought +round to the gangway, when the end of the noose being cast over the +main-yard, he was lifted out of the sea and swung upon the ship’s deck. +Hitherto he had suffered quietly enough, in apparent stupefaction from +the pain of his jaw; but he began now to convince us that neither life +nor strength had deserted him; lashing his tail with such violence as +speedily to clear the quarter-deck, and biting in the most furious +manner at everything within his reach. One of the sailors, however, who +seemed to understand these matters more than his comrades, took an axe, +and watching his opportunity, at one, blow chopped off his tail. He was +now perfectly harmless, unless, indeed, one had chosen to thrust one’s +hand into his mouth; and the same sailor accordingly proceeded to lay +him open, and to take out his entrails. And now it was that the +tenacity of life, peculiar to these animals, displayed itself. After +his heart and bowels were taken out; the shark still continued to +exhibit proofs of animation, by biting with as much force as ever at a +bag of carpenter’s tools that happened to lie within his reach. + +Being cut up, he was distributed in portions among the soldiers and the +ship’s crew. The tail part only was reserved as the chief delicacy for +our cabin, which, though dry and hard, with little flavour or taste, +was on the present occasion considered as agreeable food, because it +was fresh. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + +But what I principally relished, in this part of our voyage, was the +exquisite beauty of its night-scenery. To an inhabitant of Great +Britain, the splendour of a night-scene in these climates is altogether +unknown. Shining broad and full in a sky perfectly cloudless, the moon +sends forth a clear and mellow lustre, little inferior, in point of +brilliancy, to the full twilight in England. By this means you never +lose sight of land, either by night or day, as long as your course lies +between Cuba and St. Domingo; whilst the delicious coolness, which +follows the setting of the sun, tempts you, in spite of all the +whispers of prudence, to expose yourself to dews and damps, rather than +forego the pleasures of which they are the bane. Besides, you have +constantly the satisfaction of observing yourself move steadily on at +the most agreeable of all rates, about five or six miles an hour; a +satisfaction far from trifling in a sea-life. Then the ocean is so +smooth, that scarcely a ripple is seen to break the moon-beams as they +fall; whilst the quiet dash of little waves against the ship’s side, +and the rushing noise occasioned by the moving of her bow through the +water, produce altogether an effect which may, without affectation, be +termed absolutely refreshing. It was my common practice to sit for +hours after night-fall upon the tafferel, and strain my eyes in the +attempt to distinguish objects on shore or strange sails in the +distance. + +It happened that, on the 30th, I was tempted to indulge in this idle +but bewitching employment, even beyond my usual hour for retiring, and +did not quit the deck till towards two o’clock in the morning of the +31st. I had just entered my cabin, and was beginning to undress, when a +cry from above, of an enemy in chase, drew me instantly to the +quarter-deck. On looking astern, I perceived a vessel making directly +after us, and was soon convinced of the justice of the alarm, by a shot +which whistled over our heads. All hands were now called to quarters, +the small sails were taken in, and having spoken to our companion, and +made an agreement as to position, both ships cleared for action. But +the stranger, seeing his signal obeyed with so much alacrity, likewise +slackened sail, and, continuing to keep us in view, followed our wake +without approaching nearer. In this state things continued till +daybreak, we still holding our course, and he hanging back; but as soon +as it was light, he set more sail and ran to windward, moving just out +of gun-shot, in a parallel direction with us. It was now necessary to +fall upon some plan of deceiving him, otherwise there was little +probability that he would attack. In the bomb, indeed, the height of +the bulwark served to conceal some of the men; but in the transport no +such screen existed. The troops were, therefore, ordered below, and +only the sailors, a few blacks, and the officers, kept the deck. The +same expedient was likewise adopted, in part, by Captain Price, of the +Volcano; and in order to give to his ship a still greater resemblance +than it already had to a merchantman, he displayed an old faded scarlet +ensign, and drew up his fore and mainsail in what sailors term a +lubberly manner. + +As yet the stranger had shown no colours, but, from her build and +rigging, there was little doubt as to her country. She was a beautiful +schooner, presenting seven ports on a side, and apparently crowded with +men, circumstances which immediately led us to believe that she was an +American privateer. The Volcano, on the other hand, was a clumsy +strong-built ship, carrying twelve guns; and the Golden Fleece mounted +eight; so that, in point of artillery, the advantage was rather on our +side; but the American’s sailing was so much superior to that of either +of us, that this advantage was more than counterbalanced. + +Having dodged us till eight o’clock, and reconnoitred with great +exactness, the stranger began to steer gradually nearer and nearer, +till at length it was judged that she had arrived within range. A gun +was accordingly fired from the Volcano, and another from the transport, +the balls from both of which passed over her and fell into the sea. +Finding herself thus assaulted, she instantly threw off her disguise, +and hung out an American ensign; when, putting her helm up, she poured +a broadside, with a volley of musketry, into the transport; and ran +alongside of the bomb, which sailed to windward. + +As soon as her flag was displayed, and her intention of attacking +discerned, all hands were ordered up, and she received two +well-directed broadsides from the Volcano, as well as a warm salute +from the Golden Fleece. But such was the celerity of her motion, that +she was alongside of the bomb in less time than can be imagined; and +actually dashing her bow against the other, attempted to carry her by +boarding. Captain Price, however, was ready to receive them. The +boarders were at their posts in an instant, and the enemy discovering, +when it was too late, the mistake into which he had fallen, left about +twenty of his men upon the Volcano’s bowsprit, all of whom were thrown +into the sea; and filling his sails, sheered off with the same speed +with which he had borne down. In attempting to escape, he unavoidably +fell somewhat to leeward, and exposed the whole of his deck to the fire +of the transport. A tremendous discharge of musketry saluted him as he +passed; and it was almost laughable to witness the haste with which his +crew hurried below, leaving none upon deck except such as were +absolutely wanted to work his vessel. + +The Volcano had by this time filled, and gave chase, firing with great +precision at the privateer’s yards and rigging, in the hope of +disabling him. But as fortune would have it, none of his important +ropes or yards were cut; and we had the mortification to see him, in a +few minutes, beyond our reach. + +In this affair, a marine officer and two men were killed on board the +bomb; and some of the tackling was shot away. The transport suffered +nothing in killed or wounded, having been in a great degree protected +from the enemy’s fire by her commodore; and only one rope, not, I +believe, an important one, was destroyed. + +The battle having ended, and the chase being given up as fruitless, we +continued our course without any other adventure; and before dark were +able to distinguish the blue mountains of Jamaica. St. Domingo and Cuba +had both disappeared, and this was now the only land visible; but it +was not till the 1st of November that we could obtain a distinct view +of it. Then, indeed, we found ourselves within a few miles of the +shore, and seldom has landscape appeared more attractive to the eyes of +a voyager, than the romantic shores of Jamaica now appeared to ours. + +Jamaica is in general a bold and mountainous island, but on this side +it is peculiarly so. It appeared to me that even the Pyrenees, +magnificent as they are, were not to be compared, in point of altitude, +to the hills now before me; and early in the morning, while yet the +mists hung upon their summits and concealed them, no prospect can be +imagined more sublime than that which they presented. It was, in truth, +a glorious scene; and as the wind blew light and uncertain, we were +permitted, from the slowness of the ship’s progress, to enjoy it to the +full. Towards evening, indeed, the breeze died entirely away, which +compelled us to anchor about eight miles from the harbour of Port +Royal. + +PORT ROYAL. + +In spite of the little rest which I had procured during the two +preceding nights, having sat up till an early hour this morning, to +watch several strange sails that hovered about us, I could not bring +myself to quit the deck till after midnight, so beautiful, in all +respects, were the objects around me. The moon shone with her +accustomed brilliancy, and exhibited every crag and tree upon the land, +changed and confounded in shape, but still plainly; whilst the perfume, +borne off upon the breeze, was odoriferous in the highest degree. The +sound of the waves, likewise, breaking upon the rocks, and the +occasional cry of seamen, as they adjusted ropes and sails, together +with the sight of several vessels which took advantage of the +night-wind and stood to sea, with canvas glittering in the moonbeams, +produced so delightful a combination, as completely riveted me to my +seat; nor was it without much reluctance that I at length yielded to +the drowsy god, and descended to my cabin. + +Next morning, the ship got under weigh at an early hour, but, owing to +the unsteadiness of the breeze, it was ten o’clock before we made any +satisfactory progress. As we approached the bay which forms the harbour +of Port Royal, a novel and pleasing sight presented itself. The hills +dying gradually away, gave place to gentle slopes and green knolls, +till, towards the entrance, the coast became perfectly level. Pushing +forward, we soon found ourselves in a narrow channel between two +projecting headlands, beautifully ornamented with cocoa-nut trees, and +so near to each other, that I could with ease have thrown a biscuit +from the ship’s deck upon either. At the extremity of these necks, just +where the bay begins its sweep, stand two well-built forts, bristling +with cannon; and at the opposite side may be seen a third, ready to +sink whatever hostile fleet should be fortunate enough to force an +entrance. But these were not the most striking parts of the scene. The +water in this strait is remarkably clear, and exhibits with great +distinctness the tops and chimneys of houses at the bottom. It will be +recollected, that many years ago, an earthquake not only demolished +great part of the town of Port Royal, but likewise covered it with the +sea; by which means, the site of the harbour was completely changed, +and that which was formerly dry land, and a town, became part of the +entrance of the bay. + +Having doubled the promontories, a rich and extensive prospect meets +the eye. You find yourself, as it were, in a large inland lake, the +banks of which are covered with plantations of sugar cane, groves of +cocoa-nut and plantain trees, and other woods peculiar to these +regions, beautifully interspersed with seats and villages. On your +right is the town of Port Royal, lying almost on a level with the +water, and strongly protected by fortifications, whilst in various +other directions are castles and batteries, adding an appearance of +security to that of plenty. The banks, though not lofty, slope gently +upwards, with occasional falls or glens, and the background is composed +in general of the rugged tops of distant mountains. + +Having waited till the ship dropped anchor, I put myself into a a sort +of barge rowed by four negroes, and proceeded to Kingston. Though not +the capital of the island, Kingston is the largest town in Jamaica. It +stands upon the brink of a frith, about nine miles above Port Royal, +and thence enjoys all the advantages of the chief mart in this trading +country. Like most other mercantile seaports, it is built without much +regard to regularity. The streets, though wide, are in general the +reverse of elegant, being composed almost entirely of wooden houses, +and by no means remarkable for cleanliness. Of public buildings it +possesses none worthy of notice. Its inns are, however, excellent; and +though certainly not moderate in their charges, they are at least more +so than those of Bermuda. In a word, it is exactly such a town as one +would expect to find holding the principal commercial rank in a colony +where men’s minds seldom aspire beyond the occupations of trade. + +Of the intense heat in this place, none but those who have experienced +it can form a notion. It is impossible to walk out with any comfort, +except before the sun has risen, or after he has set; and even within +doors, with the aid of thorough draughts and all the other expedients +usually adopted on such occasions, it is with the utmost difficulty +that you can contrive to keep your blood in a moderate degree of +temperature. In the town itself, therefore, few of the higher classes +reside, the closeness produced by a proximity of houses being in this +climate peculiarly insupportable. These inhabit for the most part +little villas, called Pens, about three or four miles in the country, +the master of each family generally, retaining a suite of apartments, +or, perhaps an entire mansion, in some open street for his own use, +when business obliges, him, to exchange the comfort of fresh air for +the suffocating atmosphere of Kingston. Towards the outskirts, indeed, +in one direction, a few gentile families inhabit one or two handsome +houses, surrounded by extensive gardens and shrubberies; but these are +not numerous, and they are so far removed from the heart of the town, +as to be in great measure beyond the influence of its smoke and other +nuisances. + +During our sojourn in this place we received the most hospitable +attention from several persons of the first distinction. Balls and +other entertainments were given, at which all the beauty and fashion in +this part of the island attended; and for some days I had little +leisure or inclination for any other pursuit than the enjoyment of +civilized pleasure, a pursuit which, from long disuse, possessed more +than ordinary zest. But at length having seen as much of Kingston and +its vicinity as, I desired to see, I determined to take advantage of +the opportunity which fortune had placed within my reach, and to make +an excursion into the heart of the Blue Mountains. To this I was +additionally induced by an invitation from an old friend to visit him +at Annotto bay; and as, along with his letter, he sent a horse for my +own conveyance, and a mule for the conveyance of my baggage, no +difficulty respecting a mode of being transported stood in the way to +obstruct my design. + +Having made up my mind to this journey, I waited, till sunset on the +9th, when, starting in the cool of the evening, I reached a little +tavern called the Plum Tree, about half an hour after dark. My ride +carried me through an open and fertile country covered with +sugar-canes, coffee, and such other plants as are cultivated in the low +grounds of Jamaica. It was a short one, not more than twelve miles in +extent, but I was forced to halt where I did, because I had gained the +foot of the mountains; and if I had passed the Plum Tree, well known as +a sort of half-way house on such tours, I might have travelled all +night without finding any place of accommodation. + +As darkness set in, one of the, beautiful peculiarities of a tropical +climate, which I had not previously witnessed, came under my +observation. The air was filled with fire-flies, which, emitting a +phosphoric light something similar to the light of the glow-worm, only +more red and brilliant, danced around me like sparks from a smith’s +anvil when he is beating a bar of red-hot iron. These creatures flutter +about with a humming noise, and frequently settle in large swarms upon +branches of trees, giving them the semblance of so many pieces of +timber taken newly out of a fire. When viewed by daylight they are in +no way remarkable for their elegance, resembling in the shape of the +body a long beetle which may be seen in the fields after sunset, +without wings or scales. In colour they are a dingy brown, and, like +the glow-worm, carry their light in the tail. + +As I had not before chanced to see anything of the kind, and forgot at +the moment that such an insect as the fire-fly existed, I was for a few +minutes at a loss to what cause to attribute the phenomenon, and was at +last indebted to my negro guide for refreshing my memory on the +subject. The effect, however, cannot be conceived without being +witnessed. A cluster of two or three glow-worms shine so brilliantly, +that they will furnish subject for the commendatory eloquence of any +one fortunate enough to perceive them together; but their brilliancy is +to a farthing candle to the sun, when compared with that of the +fire-fly. Not two, or three, but thousands of these creatures dance +around, filling the air with a wavering and uncertain glimmer, of the +extreme beauty of which no words can convey an adequate conception. + +THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. + +Having passed the night at this tavern, a small cottage kept by a free +negro and his wife, I rose two hours before dawn, and prosecuted my +journey. From the moment I quitted the Plate Tree I began gradually to +ascend, till at daybreak I found myself in the midst of the most +glorious scenery that the imagination of man can conceive. Everything +around was new and romantic. The hills, towering into the very sky, +were covered from top to bottom with the richest herbage and the most +luxuriant wood. Rarely could a barren crag be discerned, and when it +did appear it was only a sharp point, or a bald projection pushing +itself forward from the midst of the thickest foliage. But what to me +formed the most bewitching part of the prospect was the elegance of the +trees and their perfect dissimilitude to any which had previously +beheld. The cocoa-nut and plantain were mingled with the wild pine and +lime-tree; while the cashew and wild coffee, with numberless other +shrubs, loaded at once with fruit and blossom, formed the underwood to +these graceful forests. + +As yet I had been favoured with a wide and good road, but now it began +gradually to narrow, till at last it ended in a path little more +distinct than the sheep-tracks over the hills in Scotland. Winding +along the sides of the mountains, it brought me frequently to spots +where the wood parting, as if artificially, displayed deep ravines, to +look down which, without becoming dizzy, required no little strength of +head; whilst above, the same hill continued to stretch itself to a +height far beyond any I had before gazed upon. Presently after it +conducted me gently down into valleys completely shut out from the rest +of the world; and as I descended I could hear the roar of water, though +neither, the stream nor the bottom of the glen could be perceived. On +one of these occasions, after passing through a thick grove, I beheld a +river of some width dashing along the glen, and chafing so as to +produce the noise of a mighty waterfall. Towards the brink of this +river my guide conducted me; when, plunging in, we made our way with +some difficulty to the opposite bank, and again began to ascend. + +For several hours, the same scenery surrounded me, only varied by the +occasional appearance of clusters of negro huts. Than these, it is +impossible to imagine any species of huts or dwellings more beautifully +picturesque. They are constructed of strong limbs of trees, thatched +over with straw, and usually ending in a cone; having no windows, but +only two, or sometimes four doors, for the purpose of admitting a free +current of air. The spots chosen for their erection, are generally +small platforms or terraces in the sides of the hills. A little path, +similar to that along which I travelled, winds down from their doors to +the bottom of the valley, and conducts to the edge of the river, from +whence the inhabitants are supplied with water. Other tracks likewise +branch off in different directions, some towards the summit, and others +along the sides of the mountains; leading, probably, to the fields or +spots where the inhabitants labour. These huts have no chimney, but +only a large hole in the roof, to give free passage to the smoke; and I +could perceive, by its rise at present, that fires were now burning. + +It would be labour lost, were I to attempt any more minute description +of this delightful journey. Every step I took presented something new, +and something more grand and sublime than I had just quitted; whilst +the continual fording of the swollen river (for I crossed the same +stream no fewer than eight-and-twenty times) gave an additional +interest to the scene, arising from the sense of danger. The rainy +season having just ended, this stream, the Wag-water, a most +appropriate name, had not as yet returned to its natural size; but at +the fords, which in general would not cover a horse’s knees, the depth +was such as to moisten the saddle-girths. So great a quantity of water, +in a furious mountain-torrent, pouring on with all the violence +produced by a steep descent, occasioned no slight pressure upon my +steed; nor was it without considerable floundering on his part, and +some anxiety on mine, that once or twice we succeeded in making good +our passage. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + +Noon was approaching when my sooty fellow-traveller directed my +attention to a neat cottage, romantically situated on the top of a low +mound, which stood alone in the middle of stupendous mountains. It +commanded one of the most exquisite prospects that fancy can represent. +A sort of glen surrounded it on every side, richly and beautifully +wooded; behind, rose some of the most lofty of the Blue Mountains; on +the right there was an opening, which admitted a fine view of Annotto +Bay; whilst in the other direction, the hills sloping gradually +upwards, presented an inclined plane, covered with fields of +sugar-cane, and ending, at a considerable distance, in one abrupt and +broken ridge. + +The cottage in question was the residence of my friend, and the +resting-place whither my steps were turned; nor did I experience any +regret at finding myself so near my journey’s end. The heat had for +some time been almost intolerable, and having eaten nothing since the +night before, nature began to cry out for repose and repletion; and, in +truth, the welcome which I experienced, was of a nature to take away +all desire of wandering farther. We had not met for several years—not, +indeed, since I was a child—and in the interval, some melancholy +changes had occurred in the family of my host; but he received me with +the cordial hospitality which a warm heart produces, and forgot his +private sorrows for a time, that he might not throw a damp upon my +enjoyments. + +The remainder of this day I spent, as a powerful sensation of fatigue +warned me to spend it, within doors; but on the following morning I set +out at an early hour, for the purpose of gratifying my curiosity on a +number of points which had frequently exercised it. In this excursion, +and indeed in all the excursions which I undertook during my residence +at his Pen, my friend accompanied me; and an excellent and most +intelligent guide he proved to be. We made the tour of several estates, +saw the process of making sugar, visited the sugar and coffee +plantations, and inspected several hospitals, with one of which each +estate is supplied, for the accommodation and cure of sick negroes. In +the course of these rambles, I made it my business to inquire into the +condition and treatment of the slave population; inspecting their huts, +and even examining their provisions; and I frankly confess that, though +I began my researches under the influence of as many prejudices as, on +such a subject, are wont to be entertained by Englishmen in general, +the result of the whole was to convince me that I had done glaring +injustice to the character of the Jamaica planters, as well as fostered +notions of the wretchedness of the negroes, utterly and iniquitously +erroneous. It is no business of mine, and, if it were, this is no +proper place to take part in what has of late been termed the +West-Indian controversy; but, as an eye-witness, I may venture to speak +out on one point, by affirming, that a countless proportion of the +stories with which the British public is amused, touching the barbarous +treatment of slaves by owners and overseers, are, if not absolute +fables, at all events gross exaggerations. I am aware that my residence +in the island was too brief, and my acquaintance with it too limited, +to entitle my opinions to the weight which a more protracted sojourn +might have obtained for them; but it is but justice to state, that +whilst I was there, I enjoyed opportunities of seeing the negro at all +times, and under all circumstances, such as few casual visitors can +boast of. My host was not a planter, but a medical practitioner; and +one prejudiced rather against the slave system than in favour of it: +there was therefore no disposition on his part to cast dust into my +eyes, or to present to them only the bright side of the picture. Under +his guidance, I beheld the negro at work in the fields, in the bosom of +his family, in the sick ward, and at market; and I never saw him other +than a contented and light-hearted being. No doubt there are instances +of cruelty on the part of overseers in Jamaica, exactly as there are +instances of tyranny on the part of parish officers and county +magistrates in England; but had these been as numerous, or as flagrant, +as they are represented to be, I cannot doubt but that something of the +kind must have passed under my eyes, even within the space of one week. +No such event, however, took place; and, as far as I could learn, no +such event was to be expected. + +Far be it from me to stand forward as the advocate of personal bondage +in the abstract—it is a grievous evil; and wherever men are so far +civilized as to render its abolition desirable, it is an evil which +ought to be abolished. But it is an evil of long standing, authorized +in the Bible, and therefore, we may presume, not without its +counterbalancing benefits. He, therefore, who would seek, at all +hazards and under all circumstances, to dissolve the tie which binds a +master to his slave, and a slave to his master—whilst he would be doing +that which the Apostles never did, and which Christians are nowhere +commanded to do—would run no slight hazard of causing a quantity of +mischief to both parties, for which the benefits bestowed upon either +would not compensate. With respect to our own colonies, in particular, +it is manifest that the whole matter resolves itself into one +consideration. If the negroes be in such a state, as that the boon of +universal freedom would be productive to them of universal benefit, by +all means let it be bestowed at once, even though it be attended by so +much national expense, as the fair demands of the proprietors for +compensation shall impose upon us. If they be not thus situated, let +every practicable method be adopted to advance them on the scale of +civilization; but till they be advanced far beyond their present +station, let no false hopes be excited that the moment of their +liberation is at hand. Many measures for their improvement have been +adopted since the year 1814, and many more are in daily process of +adoption; but it is greatly to be apprehended that much of the benefit +which these measures promised to bring about, has been obstructed by +the indiscreet zeal of those who profess, and probably feel, the +liveliest interest in their welfare. + +Besides adding to my stock of knowledge as to the cultivation of the +sugar-cane, the making of sugar, rum, &c. &c.; I had an opportunity of +seeing something of the Maroons, or free Negroes, who inhabit the +mountains. These people dwell apart from the European settlers, holding +very little intercourse with them, though a single European generally +resides in each of their villages, as a sort of chief or magistrate. +They struck me to be a lazy, indolent, and harmless race of human +beings; and they formed, in all their habits, a striking contrast with +their enslaved brethren. Whilst the latter devote their spare hours to +the culture of their own little spots, to cudgel-playing, dancing, or +other gambols, the former appear to spend their whole time in a state +between sleeping and waking, at the doors of their huts, or under the +shelter of trees. Some of the Maroon females, I observed, were really +handsome, their features being high, and their persons elegantly +formed; but in general they differed nothing from the other negroes, +from whom, indeed, they are principally descended. + +I heard that the men carry on a petty trade in feathers, but that their +principal occupation, at least that from which they derive the largest +emolument, consists in apprehending, and leading back to their masters, +run-away slaves. For their services in this department, they were wont +to receive a pension from the Government; and they are still, I +believe, supplied with muskets and ammunition at the expense of the +colonial authorities. But enough of these details. + +My sojourn in St. Mary’s having extended considerably beyond the limits +which prudence would have imposed upon it, I set out on the morning of +the 13th, on my return towards Kingston. The country through which I +travelled differed in many respects from that which I had crossed in my +way hither: it was in general less wild, and less mountainous; but it +possessed features of striking beauty, rich corn-fields being +interspersed amidst graceful forests, and here and there a wild +hill-side rising as a contrast to both. The most remarkable variety, +and not perhaps the least agreeable, was, however, to be found in the +absence of the Wag-water; my guide having led me in a direction by +which its tortuous course was avoided. + +As it was late before I started, my ride soon became toilsome on +account of the heat, and I was fain to stop short for the night at a +place called Stoney Hill, about twelve miles from Kingston. Here I was +hospitably entertained by the officers of the 102nd regiment; and, +rising at an early hour on the following morning, I contrived to +complete my journey before breakfast. And it was well that no further +time had been expended in my progress. The ships, I found, were +preparing to put to sea; the stock was all embarked, and the crews on +board; nothing therefore remained for me but to follow the general +example, and to establish myself with as little delay as possible in my +cabin. + +PORT ROYAL—NEGRIL BAY. + +In spite of these preparations, the 15th and 16th of November both +passed away without any movement being made. It was, however, my custom +not to neglect any opportunities which chanced to come in my way of +viewing strange places, and obtaining an acquaintance with strange +people; neither on the present occasion did I fail to make the most of +the interval, by landing and wandering over the town of Port Royal. But +to describe minutely a place so little deserving of description, would +hardly repay me for the labour of writing, or the reader for the toil +of perusing what I write. It is sufficient to observe, that except to +him who takes delight in beholding a well-constructed military work, +there is nothing in the busy, bustling town of Port Royal which will at +all compensate for the heat and fatigue which he must undergo who, like +myself, traverses its streets and lanes at noon-day. + +The long looked-for signal to weigh was hung out at last; and at an +early hour on the 17th we put to sea. Our point of destination was +Negril Bay, the appointed place of rendezvous for the whole armament; +and we reached it without the occurrence of mishap or adventure on the +evening of the 19th. We found here a large fleet already assembled; but +the horses were all landed, many officers were dwelling in tents on the +shore, and everything gave indication that some further delay might be +expected. To say the truth, I experienced no degree of satisfaction at +this prospect; for the point of the island opposite to which we now lay +was neither remarkable for its natural beauty nor very thickly +inhabited; and had the contrary been the case, I had seen as much of +Jamaica and its people as I was at all desirous to see. Besides, it was +impossible not to feel that whatever the object of our expedition might +be, it was not likely to be furthered by this tardy mode of entering +upon it; and rumours already began to spread abroad, of discoveries +incautiously and untimely made. It was, therefore, with no slight +degree of pleasure that, on the morning of the 24th, the topmasts of a +numerous squadron were seen over the eastern promontory, in full sail +towards us; and it was with still greater delight that in a short time +we were able to discern the flags of Sir Alexander Cochrane and Admiral +Malcolm floating in the breeze. By and bye the Tonnant and Royal Oak +showed their hulls in the offing; and a short while afterwards, these +ships, followed by a large fleet of troopers and transports, +majestically entered the bay. As may be imagined, our curiosity was +strongly excited to learn what reinforcements they contained, and what +intelligence they brought; insomuch, that they had scarcely dropped +anchor when they were boarded from almost every one of the ships which +they came to join. + +NEGRIL BAY. + +It appeared that this powerful reinforcement consisted of the following +corps:—the 93rd regiment, a fine battalion of Highlanders, mustering +nine hundred bayonets; six companies of the 95th rifle corps; two West +India regiments, each eight hundred strong; two squadrons of the 14th +Dragoons dismounted; detachments of artillery, rockets, sappers, and +engineers; recruits for the different corps already in this part of the +world; and though last, not least, Major-General Keane to take upon +himself the command of the whole. The intelligence brought was likewise +interesting, for it informed us of the point whither we were to +proceed; and it was soon known throughout the fleet, that the conquest +of New Orleans was the object in view. + +But before I pursue my narrative further, having arrived, as it were, +at a second commencement, it may be well if I state in full the number +of men of which the army now consisted. In the first place, then, there +were the 4th, 44th, and 85th regiments, originally dispatched from +Bordeaux, and the 21st, which joined the expedition at Bermuda. These +battalions, being considerably reduced by past service, could not at +present muster conjunctly above two thousand two hundred men; and being +likewise deprived of the Marine battalion, which had fought beside them +in the Chesapeake, they retained no followers except the artillery, +sappers, &c. which had accompanied them from the first. The whole +amount of this corps may, therefore, be estimated at two thousand five +hundred men. + +Without computing the individual strength of each detachment now +arrived, I will venture to fix the aggregate at two thousand five +hundred; and thus the whole, taken collectively, will amount to five +thousand combatants. That it might somewhat exceed or fall under this +computation, I do not deny; but neither the excess nor deficiency could +be considerable; and therefore my statement may be received as correct, +with very little allowance. + +This, it must be confessed, was a formidable force, and such as, had +all its parts been trustworthy, might have done much. But on the black +corps little reliance could be placed, especially if the climate should +prove colder than was anticipated; consequently, there were not more +than three thousand four hundred men upon whom a General could fully +depend. + +Together with these forces were brought out abundant stores of +ammunition, some clothing for the troops, and tents to be used when an +opportunity should offer. There were also numerous additions to the +commissariat and medical departments; in short, the materiel of the +army was increased in proportion to its increase in number. + +To find himself in the chief command of the army, exceeded the +expectation, and perhaps the desire, of General Keane. Being a young +and dashing officer, he had been selected as most fit to serve under +General Ross; and having sailed from England before the death of that +gallant chief was known, he reached Madeira before his elevation was +communicated to him. Young as he was, however, his arrival produced +much satisfaction throughout the armament; for though no one +entertained a doubt as to the personal courage of Colonel Brook, it was +felt that a leader of more experience was wanted on the present +expedition. + +As soon as the newly-arrived squadron had anchored, the Bay was covered +with boats, which conveyed parties of officers from ship to ship, +hastening to salute their comrades, and to inquire into the state of +things at home. Greetings and hearty embraces were interchanged between +friends thus again brought together; and a few passing ejaculations of +sorrow bestowed upon those who could not now take part in the meeting. +Many questions were put, relative to persons and places in England; in +a word, the day was spent in that species of employment, which can be +completely known only to those who have been similarly situated. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +AT SEA. + + +But the period granted for such indulgence was not of long duration, +for on the following morning the Tonnant, Ramilies, and two brigs stood +to sea; and on the 26th the rest of the fleet got under weigh and +followed the Admiral. It is impossible to conceive a finer sea-view +than this general stir presented. Our fleet amounted now to upwards of +fifty sail, many of them vessels of war, which shaking loose their +topsails, and lifting their anchors at the same moment, gave to Negril +Bay an appearance of bustle such as it has seldom been able to present. +In half an hour all the canvas was set, and the ships moved slowly and +proudly from their anchorage, till, having cleared the headlands, and +caught the fair breeze which blew without, they bounded over the water +with the speed of eagles, and long before dark the coast of Jamaica had +disappeared. + +There is something in rapidity of motion, whether it be along a high +road or across the deep, extremely elevating; nor was its effect +unperceived on the present occasion. It is true that there were other +causes for the high spirits which now pervaded the armament, but I +question if any proved more efficient in their production than the +astonishing rate of our sailing. Whether the business we were about to +undertake would prove bloody or the reverse entered not into the +calculations of a single individual in the fleet. The sole subject of +remark was the speed with which we got over the ground, and the +probability that existed of our soon reaching the point of debarkation. +The change of climate, likewise, was not without its effect in +producing pleasurable sensations. The farther we got from Jamaica, the +more cool and agreeable became the atmosphere; from which circumstance +we were led to hope that, in spite of its southern latitude, New +Orleans would not be found so oppressively hot as we had been taught to +expect. + +The breeze continuing without interruption, on the 29th we came in +sight of the island of Grand Cayman. It is a small speck in the middle +of the sea, lying so near the level of the water as to be unobservable +at any considerable distance. Though we passed along with prodigious +velocity, a canoe nevertheless ventured off from the shore, and making +its way through waves which looked as if they would swallow it up, +succeeded in reaching our vessel. It contained a white man and two +negroes, who brought off a quantity of fine turtle, which they gave us +in exchange for salt pork; and so great was the value put upon salt +provisions, that they bartered a pound and a half of the one for a +pound of the other. To us the exchange was very acceptable, and thus +both parties remained satisfied with their bargain. + +Having lain-to till our turtle-merchants left us, we again filled and +stood our course. The land of Cayman was soon invisible; nor was any +other perceived till the 2nd of December, when the western shores of +Cuba presented themselves. Towards them we now directed the ship’s +head, and reaching in within a few miles of the beach, coasted along +till we had doubled the promontory, which forms one of the jaws of the +Mexican Gulf. Whilst keeping thus close to the shore, our sail was more +interesting than usual, for though this side of Cuba be low, it is +nevertheless picturesque, from the abundance of wood with which it is +ornamented. There are likewise several points where huge rocks rise +perpendicularly out of the water, presenting the appearance of old +baronial castles, with their battlements and lofty turrets; and it will +easily be believed that none of these escaped our observation. The few +books which we had brought to sea were all read, many of them twice and +three times through; and there now remained nothing to amuse except +what the variety of the voyage could produce. + +But the shores of Cuba were quickly passed, and the old prospect of sea +and sky again met the gaze. There was, however, one circumstance from +which we experienced a considerable diminution of comfort. As soon as +we entered the gulf, a short disagreeable swell was perceptible; +differing in some respects from that in the Bay of Biscay, but to my +mind infinitely more unpleasant. So great was the motion, indeed, that +all walking was prevented; but as we felt ourselves drawing every hour +nearer and nearer to the conclusion of our miseries, this additional +one was borne without much repining. Besides, we found some amusement +in watching, from the cabin windows, the quantity and variety of weed +with which the surface of the gulf is covered. The current being here +extremely rapid, the weed sails continually in the same direction; that +is to say, it goes round by the opposite side of Cuba towards the banks +of Newfoundland, and is carried sometimes as far as Bermuda, and even +to the Western Isles. + +It is not, however, my intention to continue the detail of this voyage +longer than may be interesting; I shall therefore merely state that, +the wind and weather having undergone some variations, it was the 10th +of December before the shores of America could be discerned. On that +day we found ourselves opposite to the Chandeleur Islands, and near the +entrance of Lake Borgne. There the fleet anchored, that the troops +might be removed from the heavy ships into such as drew least water; +and from this and other preparations it appeared that to ascend this +lake was the plan determined upon. + +NEW ORLEANS. + +But before I pursue my narrative further, it will be well if I +endeavour to give some account of the situation of New Orleans, and of +the nature of the country against which our operations were directed. + +New Orleans is a town of some note, containing from twenty to thirty +thousand inhabitants. It stands upon the eastern bank of the +Mississippi, in 30 degrees north latitude, and about 110 miles from the +Gulf of Mexico. Though in itself unfortified, it is difficult to +conceive a place capable of presenting greater obstacles to an invader; +and at the same time more conveniently situated with respect to trade. +Built upon a narrow neck of land, which is confined on one side by the +river, and on the other by impassable morasses, its means of defence +require little explanation; and as these morasses extend to the +distance of only a few miles, and are succeeded by Lake Pontchartrain, +which again communicates through Lake Borgne[2] with the sea, its +peculiar commercial advantages must be equally apparent. It is by means +of the former of these lakes, indeed, that intercourse is maintained +between the city and the northern parts of West Florida, of which it is +the capital; a narrow creek, called in the language of the country a +bayo or bayouke, navigable for vessels drawing less than six feet +water, running up through the marsh, and ending within two miles of the +town. The name of this creek is the Bayouke of St. John, and its +entrance is defended by works of considerable strength. + + [2] These are, properly speaking, one and the same lake. From the + entrance, however, as far as Ship Island, is called by the inhabitants + Lake Borgne, whilst all above that point goes under the name of Lake + Pontchartrain. They are both extremely shallow, varying from 12 to 6 + feet in depth. + + +But to exhibit its advantages in a more distinct point of view, it will +be necessary to say a few words respecting that mighty river upon which +it stands. The Mississippi (a corruption of the word Mechasippi, +signifying, in the language of the natives, “the father of rivers”) is +allowed to be inferior, in point of size and general navigability, to +few streams in the world. According to the Sioux Indians it takes its +rise from a large swamp, and is increased by many rivers emptying +themselves into its course as far as the Fall of St. Anthony, which, by +their account, is upwards of 700 leagues from its source. But this +fall, which is formed by a rock thrown across the channel, of about +twelve feet perpendicular height, is known to be 800 leagues from the +sea; and therefore the whole course of the Mississippi, from its spring +to its mouth, may be computed at little short of 5000 miles. + +Below the fall of St. Anthony, again, the Mississippi is joined by a +number of rivers, considerable in point of size, and leading out of +almost every part of the continent of America. These are the St. +Pierre, which comes from the west; St. Croix, from the east; the +Moingona, which is said to run 150 leagues from the west, and forms a +junction about 250 below the fall; and the Illinois, which rises near +the lake Michigan, 200 leagues east of the Mississippi. + +But by far the most important of these auxiliary streams is the +Missouri, the source of which is as little known as that of the Father +of Rivers himself. It has been followed by traders upwards of 400 +leagues, who traffic with the tribes which dwell upon its banks, and +obtain an immense return for European goods. The mouth of this river is +five leagues below that of the Illinois, and is supposed to be 800 from +its source, which, judging from the flow of its waters, lies in a +north-west direction from the Mississippi. It is remarkable enough that +the waters of this river are black and muddy, and prevail over those of +the Mississippi, which running with a clear and gentle stream till it +meets with this addition, becomes from that time both dark and rapid. + +The next river of note is the Ohio, which taking its rise near Lake +Erie, runs from the north-east to the south-west, and joins the +Mississippi about 70 leagues below the Missouri. Besides this there are +the St. Francis, an inconsiderable stream, and the Arkansas, which is +said to originate in the same latitude with Santa Fe in New Mexico, and +which, holding its course nearly 300 leagues, falls in about 200 above +New Orleans. Sixty leagues below the Arkansas, comes the Yazous from +the northeast; and about 58 nearer to the city is the Rouge, so called +from the colour of its waters, which are of a reddish dye, and tinge +those of the Mississippi at the time of the floods. Its source is in +New Mexico, and after running about 200 leagues it is joined by the +Noir 30 miles above the place where it empties itself into the +Mississippi. + +Of all these rivers there is none which will not answer the purposes of +commerce, at least to a very considerable extent; and as they join the +Mississippi above New Orleans, it is evident that this city may be +considered as the general mart of the whole. Whatever nation, +therefore, chances to possess this place, possesses in reality the +command of a greater extent of country than is included within the +boundary-line of the whole United States since from every direction are +goods, the produce of East, West, North, and South America, sent down +by the Mississippi to the Gulf. But were New Orleans properly supplied +with fortifications, it is evident that no vessels could pass without +the leave of its governor; and therefore is it that I consider that +city as of greater importance to the American government than any other +within the compass of their territories. + +Having said so much on its commercial advantages, let me now point out +more distinctly than I have yet done the causes which contribute to its +safety from all hostile attempts. The first of these is the shallowness +of the river at its mouth, and the extreme rapidity of the current. +After flowing on in one prodigious sheet of water, varying in depth +from one hundred to thirty fathoms, the Mississippi, previous to its +joining the Mexican Gulf, divides into four or five mouths, the most +considerable of which is encumbered by a sandbank continually liable to +shift. Over this bank no vessel drawing above seventeen feet water can +pass; when once across, however, there is no longer a difficulty in +being floated; but to anchor is hazardous, on account of the huge logs +which are constantly carried down the stream. Should one of these +strike the bow of the ship, it would probably dash her to pieces; +whilst, independent of this, there is always danger of drifting or +losing anchors, owing to the number of sunken logs which the +under-current bears along within a few feet of the bottom. All vessels +ascending the river are accordingly obliged, if the wind be foul, to +make fast to the trees upon the banks; because without a breeze at once +fair and powerful, it is impossible to stem the torrent. + +But besides this natural obstacle to invasion, the mouth of the river +is defended by a fort, which from its situation may be pronounced +impregnable. It is built upon an artificial causeway, and is surrounded +on all sides by swamps totally impervious, which extend on both sides +of the river to a place called the Detour des Anglais, within twenty +miles of the city. Here two other forts are erected, one on each bank. +Like that at the river’s mouth, these are surrounded by a marsh, a +single narrow path conducting from the commencement of firm ground to +the gates of each. If, therefore, an enemy should contrive to pass both +the bar and the first fort, he must here be stopped, because all +landing is prevented by the nature of the soil; and however fair his +breeze may have hitherto been, it will not now assist his further +progress. At this point the Mississippi winds almost in a circle, +insomuch that vessels which arrive are necessitated to make fast till a +change of wind occur. + +From the Detour des Anglais towards New Orleans the face of the country +undergoes an alteration. The swamp does not indeed end, but it narrows +off to the right, leaving a space of firm ground, varying, from three +to one mile in, width, between it and the river. At the back of this +swamp, again, which may be about six or eight miles across, come up the +waters of Lake Pontchartrain, and thus a neck of arable land is formed, +stretching for some way above the city. The whole of these morasses are +covered as far as the Detour with tall reeds; a little wood now +succeeds, skirting the open country, but the wood measures no more than +one mile in depth, when it again gives place to reeds. Such is the +aspect of that side of the river upon which the city is built; with +respect to the other I can speak with less confidence, having seen it +but cursorily. It appears, however, to resemble this in almost every +particular, except that it is more wooded and less confined with marsh. +Both sides are flat, containing no broken ground, nor any other cover, +for military movements; for on the open shore there are no trees, +except a few in the gardens of those houses which skirt the rivers; the +whole being laid out in large fields of sugar-cane; separated from one +another by rails and ditches. + +From the preceding brief account of the country, the advantages +possessed by a defending army must; be apparent. To approach by the +river is out of the question, and therefore an enemy can land only from +the lake. But this can be done nowhere, except where creeks or bayos +offer convenience for that purpose, because the banks of the lake are +universally swampy; and can hardly supply footing for infantry, far +less for the transportation of artillery. Of these, however, there are +not above one or two which could be so used. The Bayo of St. John is +one; but it is too well defended, and too carefully guarded for any +attempts; and the Bayo of Catiline is another, about ten miles below +the city. That this last might be found useful in an attack, was proved +by the landing affected by our army at that point; but what is the +consequence? The invaders arrive upon a piece of ground, where the most +consummate generalship will be of little avail. If the defenders can +but retard their progress—which, by crowding the Mississippi with armed +vessels, may very easily be done, the labour of a few days will cover +the narrow neck with entrenchments; whilst the opposite bank remaining +in their hands, can at all times gall their enemy with a close and +deadly cannonade. Of wood, as I have already said, or broken ground +which might conceal an advance, there exists not a particle. Every +movement of the assailants must, therefore, be made under their eyes; +and as one flank of their army will be defended by a morass, and the +other by the river, they may bid defiance to all attempts at turning. + +Such are the advantages of New Orleans; and now it is only fair that I +should state its disadvantages: these are owing solely the climate. +From the swamps with which it is surrounded, there arise, during the +summer months, exhalations extremely fatal to the health of its +inhabitants. For some months of the year, indeed, so deadly are the +effects of the atmosphere, that the garrison is withdrawn, and most of +the families retire from their houses to more genial spots, leaving the +town as much deserted as if it had been visited by a pestilence. Yet, +in spite of these cautions, agues and intermittent fevers abound here +at all times. Nor is it wonderful that the case should be so; for +independent of the vile air which the vicinity of so many putrid swamps +occasions, this country is more liable than perhaps any other to sudden +and severe changes of temperature. A night of keen frost sufficiently +powerful to produce ice a quarter of an inch in thickness, frequently +follows a day of intense heat; whilst heavy rains and bright sunshine +often succeed each other several times in the course of a few hours. +But these changes, as may supposed, occur only during the winter; the +summer being one continued series of intolerable heat and deadly fog. + +LAKE BORGNE. + +Of all these circumstances the conductors of the present expedition +were not ignorant. To reduce the forts which command the navigation of +the river was regarded as a task too difficult to be attempted; and for +any ships to pass without their reduction seemed impossible. Trusting, +therefore, that the object of the enterprise was unknown to the +Americans, Sir Alexander Cochrane and General Keane determined to +effect a landing somewhere on the banks of the lake; and pushing +directly on, to take possession of the town, before any effectual +preparation could be made for its defence. With this view the troops +were removed from the larger into the lighter vessels, and these, under +convoy of such gun-brigs as the shallowness of the water would float, +began on the 13th to enter Lake Borgne. But we had not proceeded far, +when it was apparent that the Americans were well acquainted with our +intentions, and ready to receive us. Five large cutters, armed with six +heavy guns each, were seen at anchor in the distances: and as all +endeavours to land, till these were captured, would have been useless, +the transports and largest of the gun-brigs cast anchor, whilst the +smaller craft gave chase to the enemy. + +But these cutters were built purposely to act upon the lake. They +accordingly set sail as soon as the English cruisers arrived within a +certain distance, and running on, were quickly out of sight, leaving +the pursuers fast aground. To permit them to remain in the hands of the +enemy, however, would be fatal, because, as long as they commanded the +navigation of the lake, no boats could venture to cross. It was +therefore determined at all hazards, and at any expense, to take them; +and since our lightest craft could not float where they sailed, a +flotilla of launches and ships’ barges was got ready for the purpose. + +This flotilla consisted of fifty open boats; most of them armed with a +carronade in the bow, and well manned with volunteers from the +different ships of war. The command was given to Captain Lockier, a +brave and skilful officer, who immediately pushed off; and about noon +came in sight of the enemy, moored fore and aft, with broadsides +pointing towards him. Having pulled a considerable distance, he +resolved to refresh his men before he hurried them into action; and, +accordingly, letting fall grapplings just beyond the reach of the +enemy’s guns, the crews of the different boats coolly ate their dinner. + +As soon as that meal was finished, and an hour spent in resting, the +boats again got ready to advance. But, unfortunately, a light breeze +which had hitherto favoured them, now ceased to blow, and they were in +consequence compelled to make way only with the oar. The tide also ran +strong against them, at once increasing their labour and retarding +their progress; but all these difficulties appeared trifling to British +sailors; and, giving a hearty cheer, they moved steadily onward in one +extended line. + +It was not long before the enemy’s guns opened upon them, and a +tremendous shower of balls saluted their approach. Some boats were +sunk, others disabled, and many men were killed and wounded; but the +rest pulling with all their might, and occasionally returning the +discharges from their carronades, succeeded, after an hour’s labour, in +closing with the Americans. The marines now began a deadly fire of +musketry; whilst the seamen, sword in hand, sprang up the vessels’ +sides in spite of all opposition; and sabring every man that stood in +their way, hauled down the American ensign, and hoisted the British +flag in its place. + +One cutter alone, which bore the commodore’s broad pendant, was not so +easily subdued. Having noted its pre-eminence, Captain Lockier directed +his own boat against it; and happening to have placed himself in one of +the lightest and fastest sailing barges in the flotilla, he found +himself alongside of his enemy before any of the others were near +enough to render him the smallest support. But nothing dismayed by odds +so fearful, the gallant crew of this small bark, following their +leader, instantly leaped on board the American. A desperate conflict +ensued, in which Captain Lockier received several severe wounds; but +after fighting from the bow to the stern, the enemy were at length +overpowered; and other barges coming up to the assistance of their +commander, the commodore’s flag shared the same fate with the others. + +PINE ISLAND. + +Having destroyed all opposition in this quarter, the fleet again +weighed anchor, and stood up the lake. But we had not been many hours +under sail, when ship after ship ran aground: such as still floated +were, therefore, crowded with the troops from those which could go no +farther, till finally the lightest vessel stuck fast; and the boats +were of necessity hoisted out, to carry us a distance of upwards of +thirty miles. To be confined for so long a time as the prosecution of +this voyage would require, in one posture, was of itself no very +agreeable prospect; but the confinement was but a trifling misery when +compared with that which arose from the change in the weather. Instead +of a constant bracing frost, heavy rains, such as an inhabitant of +England cannot dream of, and against which no cloak could furnish +protection, began. In the midst of these were the troops embarked in +their new and straitened transports, and each division, after an +exposure of ten hours, landed upon a small desert spot of earth, called +Pine Island, where it was determined to collect the whole army, +previous to its crossing over to the main. + +Than this spot it is scarcely possible to imagine any place more +completely wretched. It was a swamp, containing a small space of firm +ground at one end, and almost wholly unadorned with trees of any sort +or description. There were, indeed, a few stinted [sic] firs upon the +very edge of the water, but these were so diminutive in size as hardly +to deserve a higher classification than among the meanest of shrubs. +The interior was the resort of wild ducks and other water-fowl; and the +pools and creeks with which it was intercepted abounded in dormant +alligators. + +Upon this miserable desert the army was assembled, without tents or +huts, or any covering to shelter them from the inclemency of the +weather; and in truth we may fairly affirm that our hardships had here +their commencement. After having been exposed all day to a cold and +pelting rain, we landed upon a barren island, incapable of furnishing +even fuel enough to supply our fires. To add to our miseries, as night +closed, the rain generally ceased, and severe frosts set in, which, +congealing our wet clothes upon our bodies, left little animal warmth +to keep the limbs in a state of activity; and the consequence was, that +many of the wretched negroes, to whom frost and cold were altogether +new, fell fast asleep, and perished before morning. + +For provisions, again, we were entirely dependent upon the fleet. There +were here no living creatures which would suffer themselves to be +caught; even the water-fowl being so timorous that it was impossible to +approach them within musket-shot. Salt meat and ship biscuit were, +therefore, our food, moistened by a small allowance of rum; fare which, +though no doubt very wholesome, was not such as to reconcile us to the +cold and wet under which we suffered. + +On the part of the navy, again, all these hardships were experienced in +a four-fold degree. Night and day were boats pulling from the fleet to +the island, and from the island to the fleet; for it was the 21st +before all the troops were got on shore; and as there was little time +to inquire into men’s turns of labour, many seamen were four or five +days continually at the oar. Thus they had not only to bear up against +variety of temperature, but against hunger, fatigue, and want of sleep +in addition; three as fearful burdens as can be laid upon the human +frame. Yet in spite of all this, not a murmur nor a whisper of +complaint could be heard throughout the whole expedition. No man +appeared to regard the present, whilst every one looked forward to the +future. From the General, down to the youngest drum-boy, a confident +anticipation of success seemed to pervade all ranks; and in the hope of +an ample reward in store for them, the toils and grievances of the +moment were forgotten. Nor was this anticipation the mere offspring of +an overweening confidence in themselves. Several Americans had already +deserted, who entertained us with accounts of the alarm experienced at +New Orleans. They assured us that there were not at present 5000 +soldiers in the State; that the principal inhabitants had long ago left +the place; that such as remained were ready to join us as soon as we +should appear among them; and that, therefore, we might lay our account +with a speedy and bloodless conquest. The same persons likewise dilated +upon the wealth and importance of the town, upon the large quantities +of Government stores there collected, and the rich booty which would +reward its capture; subjects well calculated to tickle the fancy of +invaders, and to make them unmindful of immediate afflictions, in the +expectation of so great a recompense to come. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + +It is well known that, at the period to which my narrative refers, an +alliance, offensive and defensive, subsisted between the Government of +Great Britain and the heads of as many Indian nations or tribes as felt +the aggressions of the settlers upon their ancient territories, and +were disposed to resent them. On this side of the continent our +principal allies were the Chaktaws and Cherokees, two nations whom war +and famine had reduced from a state of comparative majesty to the +lowest ebb of feebleness and distress. Driven from hunting-ground to +hunting-ground, and pursued like wild beasts wherever seen, they were +now confined to a narrow tract of country, lying chiefly along the +coasts of the gulf and the borders of the lakes which adjoin to it. For +some time previous to the arrival of the expedition, the warriors of +these tribes put themselves under the command of Colonel Nickolls, of +the Royal Marines, and continued to harass the Americans by frequent +incursions into the cultivated districts. It so happened, however, +that, being persuaded to attempt the reduction of a fort situated upon +Mobile Point, and being, as might be expected, repulsed with some loss, +their confidence in their leader, and their dependence upon British +aid, had begun of late to suffer a serious diminution. Though not very +profitable as friends, their local position and desultory mode of +warfare would have rendered them at this period exceedingly annoying to +us as enemies; it was accordingly determined to dispatch an embassy to +their settlements, for the purpose of restoring them to good humour, or +at least discovering their intentions. + +Whilst the troops were assembling upon Pine Island, a cutter, having +proper officers on board, and carrying presents of clothing, arms, and +rum, was dispatched upon this business. It reached its place of +destination in safety, and the ambassadors found very little difficulty +in bringing back the fickle Indians to their wonted reliance upon +British support. Several of the chiefs and warriors, indeed, requested +and obtained permission to visit our Admiral and General, and to follow +the fortunes of our troops; and a very grotesque and singular +appearance they presented as they stood upon the quarter-deck of the +Tonnant. But the costume, habits, and customs of these savages have +been too frequently and too accurately described elsewhere, to render +any account of them on the present occasion desirable. It is sufficient +to observe, that whilst they gazed upon everything around them with a +look expressive of no astonishment whatever, they were themselves +objects of eager curiosity to us; and that they bore our close +inspection and somewhat uncourteous deportment with the most perfect +philosophy. But to my tale. + +The enemy’s cutters having fallen into our hands, at an early hour on +the morning of the 16th the disembarkation of the troops began. So +deficient, however, was the fleet in boats and other small craft fit to +navigate the lakes, that it was late on the evening of the 21st before +the last division took up its ground upon Pine Island, and even then +the inconveniences of our descent were but beginning. The troops had +yet to be arranged in corps and brigades; to each of these its +proportion of Commissaries, Purveyors, and Medical attendants, &c., +&c., required to be allotted; and some attempt at establishing depots +of provisions and military stores behoved to be made. In adjusting +these matters the whole of the 22nd was occupied, on which day the +General likewise reviewed the whole of the army. This being ended, the +force was next distributed into divisions, or corps; and the following +is the order it assumed. + +Instead of a light brigade, the General resolved to set apart three +battalions as an advanced guard. The regiments nominated to that +service were the 4th, the 85th Light Infantry, and the 95th. Rifles; +and he selected Colonel Thornton of the 85th, as an officer of talent +and enterprise, to command them. Attached to this corps were a party of +rocket-men, with two light three-pounders— a species of gun convenient +enough, where celerity of movement is alone regarded, but of very +little real utility in the field. The rest of the troops were arranged, +as before, into two brigades. The first, composed of the 21st, 44th, +and one black regiment, was intrusted to Colonel Brook; and the second, +containing the 93rd and the other black corps, to Colonel Hamilton, of +the 7th West India regiment. To each of these, a certain proportion of +artillery and rockets was allotted: whilst the dragoons, who had +brought their harness and other appointments on shore, remained as a +sort of bodyguard to the General, till they should provide themselves +with horses. + +The adjustment of these matters having occupied a considerable part of +the 22nd, it was determined that all things should remain as they were +till next morning. Boats, in the mean time, began to assemble from all +quarters, supplies of ammunition were packed, so as to prevent the +possibility of damage from moisture, and stores of various descriptions +were got ready. But it appeared that, even now, many serious +inconveniences must be endured, and obstacles surmounted, before the +troops could reach the scene of action. In the first place, from Pine +Island to that part of the main towards which prudence directed us to +steer, was a distance of no less than 80 miles. This, of itself, was an +obstacle, or at least an inconvenience, of no slight nature; for should +the weather prove boisterous, open boats, heavily laden with soldiers, +would stand little chance of escaping destruction in the course of so +long a voyage. In the next place, and what was of infinitely greater +importance, it was found that there were not, throughout the whole +fleet, a sufficient number of boats to transport above one third of the +army at a time. But to land in divisions would expose our forces to be +attacked in detail, by which means one party might be cut to pieces +before the others could arrive to its support. The undertaking was, +therefore, on the whole, extremely dangerous, and such as would have +been probably abandoned by more timid leaders. Ours, however, were not +so to be alarmed. They had entered upon a hazardous business, in +whatever way it should be prosecuted; and since they could not work +miracles, they resolved to lose no time in bringing their army into the +field in the best manner which circumstances would permit. + +THE LAKE. + +With this view, the advance, consisting of 1600 men and two pieces of +cannon, was next morning embarked. I have already stated that there is +a small creek, called the Bayo de Catiline, which runs up from Lake +Pontchartrain through the middle of an extensive morass, about ten +miles below New Orleans. Towards this creek were the boats directed, +and here it was resolved to effect a landing. When we set sail, the sky +was dark and lowering, and before long a heavy rain began to fall. +Continuing without intermission during the whole of the day, towards +night, it, as usual, ceased, and was succeeded by a sharp frost; which, +taking effect upon men thoroughly exposed, and already cramped by +remaining so long in one posture, rendered our limbs completely +powerless. Nor was there any means of dispelling the benumbing +sensation, or effectually resisting the cold. Fires of charcoal, +indeed, being lighted in the sterns of the boats, were permitted to +burn as long as daylight lasted; but as soon as it grew dark, they were +of necessity extinguished, lest the flame should be seen by row-boats +from the shore, and an alarm be thus communicated. Our situation was, +therefore, the reverse of agreeable; since even sleep was denied us, +from the apprehension of fatal consequences. + +THE LAKE—LANDING. + +Having remained in this uncomfortable state till midnight, the boats +cast anchor and hoisted awnings. There was a small piquet of the enemy +stationed at the entrance of the creek by which it was intended to +effect our landing. This it was absolutely necessary to surprise; and +whilst the rest lay at anchor, two or three fast-sailing barges were +pushed on to execute the service. Nor did they experience much +difficulty in accomplishing their object. Nothing, as it appeared, was +less dreamt of by the Americans than an attack from this quarter, +consequently no persons could be less on their guard than the party +here stationed. The officer who conducted the force sent against them, +found not so much as a single sentinel posted! but having landed his +men at two places, above and below the but which they inhabited, +extended his ranks so as to surround it, and closing gradually in, took +them all fast asleep, without noise or resistance. + +When such time had been allowed as was deemed sufficient for the +accomplishment of this undertaking, the flotilla again weighed anchor, +and without waiting for intelligence of success, pursued their voyage. +Hitherto we had been hurried along at a rapid rate by a fair breeze, +which enabled us to carry canvas; but this now left us, and we made way +only by rowing. Our progress was therefore considerably retarded, and +the risk of discovery heightened by the noise which that labour +necessarily occasions; but in spite of these obstacles, we reached the +entrance of the creek by dawn; and about nine o’clock, were safely on +shore. + +The place where we landed was as wild as it is possible to imagine. +Gaze where we might, nothing could be seen except one huge marsh +covered with tall reeds; not a house nor a vestige of human industry +could be discovered; and even of trees there were but a few growing +upon the banks of the creek. Yet it was such a spot as, above all +others, favoured our operations. No eye could watch us, or report our +arrival to the American General. By remaining quietly among the reeds, +we might effectually conceal ourselves from notice; because, from +appearance of all around, it was easy to perceive that the place which +we occupied had been seldom, if ever before, marked with a human +footstep. Concealment, however, was the thing of all others which we +required; for be it remembered that there were now only sixteen hundred +men on the mainland. The rest were still at Pine Island, where they +must remain till the boats which had transported us should return for +their conveyance, consequently many hours must elapse before this small +corps could be either reinforced or supported. If, therefore, we had +sought for a point where a descent might be made in secrecy and safety, +we could not have found one better calculated for that purpose than the +present; because it afforded every means of concealment to one part of +our force, until the others should be able to come up. + +MARCH. + +For these reasons, it was confidently expected that no movement would +be made previous to the arrival of the other brigades; but, in our +expectations of quiet, we were deceived. The deserters who had come in, +and accompanied us as guides, assured the General that he had only to +show himself, when the whole district would submit. They repeated, that +there were not five thousand men in arms throughout the State: that of +these, not more than twelve hundred were regular soldiers, and that the +whole force was at present several miles on the opposite side of the +town, expecting an attack on that quarter, and apprehending no danger +on this. These arguments, together with the nature of the ground on +which we stood, so ill calculated for a proper distribution of troops +in case of attack, and so well calculated to hide the movements of an +army acquainted with all the passes and tracks which, for aught we +knew, intersected the morass, induced our leader to push forward at +once into the open country. As soon, therefore, as the advance was +formed, and the boats had departed, we began our march, following an +indistinct path along the edge of the ditch or canal. But it was not +without many checks that we were able to proceed. Other ditches, +similar to that whose course we pursued, frequently stopped us by +running in a cross direction, and falling into it at right angles. +These were too wide to be leaped, and too deep to be forded; +consequently, on all such occasions, the troops were obliged to halt, +till bridges were hastily constructed of such materials as could be +procured, and thrown across. + +Having advanced in this manner for several hours, we at length found +ourselves approaching a more cultivated region. The marsh became +gradually less and less continued, being intersected by wider spots of +firm ground; the reeds gave place, by degrees, to wood, and the wood to +inclosed fields. Upon these, however, nothing grew, harvest having long +ago ended. They accordingly presented but a melancholy appearance, +being covered with the stubble of sugar-cane, which resembled the reeds +which we had just quitted, in everything except altitude. Nor as yet +was any house or cottage to be seen. Though we knew, therefore, that +human habitations could not be far off, it was impossible to guess +where they lay, or how numerous they might prove; and as we could not +tell whether our guides might not be deceiving us, and whether +ambuscades might not be laid for our destruction as soon as we should +arrive where troops could conveniently act, our march was insensibly +conducted with increased caution and regularity. + +But in a little while some groves of orange-trees presented selves; on +passing which two or three farm-houses appeared. Towards these, our +advanced companies immediately hastened, with the hope of surprising +the inhabitants, and preventing any from being raised. Hurrying on at +double-quick time, they surrounded the buildings, succeeded in securing +the inmates, capturing several horses; but becoming rather careless in +watching their prisoners, one man contrived to effect his escape. Now, +then, all hope of eluding observation might be laid aside. The rumour +of our landing would, we knew, spread faster than we could march; and +it only remained to make that rumour as terrible as possible. + +With this view, the column was commanded to widen its files, and to +present as formidable an appearance as could be assumed. Changing our +order, in obedience to these directions, we marched, not in sections of +eight or ten abreast, but in pairs, and thus contrived to cover with +our small division as large a tract or ground as if we had mustered +thrice our present numbers. Our steps were likewise quickened, that we +might gain, if possible, some advantageous position, where we might be +able to cope with any force that might attack us; and thus hastening +on, we soon arrived at the main road which leads directly to New +Orleans. Turning to the right, we then advanced in the direction of +that town for about a mile; when, having reached a spot where it was +considered that we might encamp in comparative safety, our little +column halted; the men piled their arms, and a regular bivouac was +formed. + +HALT. + +The country where we had now established ourselves, answered, in every +respect, the description which I have already given of the neck of land +on which New Orleans is built. It was a narrow plain of about a mile in +width, bounded on one side by the Mississippi, and on the other by the +marsh from which we had just emerged. Towards the open ground this +marsh was covered with dwarf wood, having the semblance of a forest +rather than of a swamp; but on trying the bottom, it was found that +both characters were united, and that it was impossible for a man to +make his way among the trees, so boggy was the soil upon which they +grew. In no other quarter, however, was there a single hedge-row, or +plantation of any kind; excepting a few apple and other fruit trees in +the gardens of such houses as were scattered over the plain, the whole +being laid out in large fields for the growth of sugar-cane, a plant +which seems as abundant in this part of the world as in Jamaica. + +Looking up towards the town, which we at this time faced, the marsh is +upon your right, and the river upon your left. Close to the latter runs +the main road, following the course of the stream all the way to New +Orleans. Between the road and the water is thrown up a lofty and strong +embankment, resembling the dykes in Holland, and meant to serve a +similar purpose; by means of which the Mississippi is prevented from +overflowing its banks, and the entire flat is preserved from +inundation. But the attention of a stranger is irresistibly drawn away +from every other object, to contemplate the magnificence of this noble +river. Pouring along at the prodigious rate of four miles an hour, an +immense body of water is spread out before you; measuring a full mile +across, and nearly a hundred fathoms in depth. What this mighty stream +must be near its mouth, I can hardly imagine, for we were here upwards +of a hundred miles from the ocean. + +Such was the general aspect of the country which we had entered;—our +own position, again, was this. The three regiments turning off from the +road into one extensive green field, formed three close columns within +pistol-shot of the river. Upon our right, but so much in advance as to +be of no service to us, was a large house, surrounded by about twenty +wooden huts, probably intended for the accommodation of slaves. Towards +this house there was a slight rise in the ground, and between it and +the camp was a small pond of no great depth. As far to the rear as the +first was to the front, stood another house, inferior in point of +appearance, and skirted by no outbuildings: this was also upon the +right; and here General Keane, who accompanied us, fixed his +head-quarters; but neither the one nor the other could be employed as a +covering redoubt, the flank of the division extending, as it were, +between them. A little way in advance, again, where the outposts were +stationed, ran a dry ditch and a row of lofty palings; affording some +cover to the front of our line, should it be formed diagonally with the +main road. The left likewise was well secured by the river; but the +right and the rear were wholly unprotected. Though in occupying this +field, therefore, we might have looked very well had the country around +us been friendly, it must be confessed that our situation hardly +deserved the title of a military position. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + + +Noon had just passed, when the word was given to halt, by which means +every facility was afforded of posting the piquet’s leisure and +attention. Nor was this deemed enough to secure tranquillity: parties +were sent out in all directions to reconnoitre, who returned with an +account that no enemy nor any trace of an enemy could be discerned. The +troops were accordingly suffered to light fires, and to make themselves +comfortable, only their accoutrements were not taken off, and the arms +were piled in such form as to be within reach at a moment’s notice. + +As soon as these agreeable orders were issued, the soldiers to obey +them both in letter and in spirit. Tearing up a number of strong +palings, large fires were lighted in a moment; water was brought from +the river, and provisions were cooked. But their bare rations did not +content them. Spreading themselves over the country as far as a regard +to safety would permit, they entered every house, and brought away +quantities of hams, fowls, and wines of various descriptions; which +being divided among them, all fared well, and none received too large a +quantity. In this division of good things, they were not unmindful of +their officers; for upon active warfare the officers are considered by +the privates as comrades, to whom respect and obedience are due, rather +than as masters. + +It was now about three o’clock in the afternoon, and all had as yet +remained quiet. The troops having finished their meal, lay stretched +beside their fires, or refreshed themselves by bathing, for to-day the +heat was such as to render this latter employment extremely agreeable, +when suddenly a bugle from the advanced posts sounded the alarm, which +was echoed back from all in the army. Starting up, we stood to our +arms, and prepared for battle, the alarm being now succeeded by some +firing; but we were scarcely in order, when intelligence arrived from +the front that there was no danger, only a few horse having made their +appearance, who were checked and put to flight at the first discharge. +Upon this information, our wonted confidence returned, and we again +betook ourselves to our former occupations, remarking that, as the +Americans had never yet dared to attack, there was no great probability +of their doing so on the present occasion. + +In this manner the day passed without any further alarm; and darkness +having set in, the fires were made to blaze with increased splendour, +our evening meal was eaten, and we prepared to sleep. But about +half-past seven o’clock, the attention of several individuals was drawn +to a large vessel, which seemed to be stealing up the river till she +came opposite to our camp; when her anchor was dropped, and her sails +leisurely furled. At first we were doubtful whether she might not be +one of our own cruisers which had passed the fort unobserved, and had +arrived to render her assistance in our future operations. To satisfy +this doubt, she was repeatedly hailed; but returning no answer, an +alarm immediately spread through the bivouac, and all thought of sleep +was laid aside. Several musket-shots were now fired at her with the +design of exacting a reply, of which no notice was taken; till at +length, having fastened all her sails, and swung her broadside towards +us, we could distinctly hear some one cry out in a commanding voice, +“Give them this for the honour of America.” The words were instantly +followed by the flashes of her guns, and a deadly shower of grape swept +down numbers in the camp. + +Against this destructive fire we had nothing whatever to oppose. The +artillery which we had landed was too light to bring into competition +with an adversary so powerful; and as she had anchored within a short +distance of the opposite bank, no musketry could reach her with any +precision or effect. A few rockets were discharged, which made a +beautiful appearance in the air; but the rocket is at the best an +uncertain weapon, and these deviated too far from their object to +produce even terror amongst those against whom they were directed. +Under these circumstances, as nothing could be done offensively, our +sole object was to shelter the men as much as possible from the iron +hail. With this view, they were commanded to leave the fires, and to +hasten under the dyke. Thither all accordingly repaired, without much +regard to order and regularity, and laying ourselves along wherever we +could find room, we listened in painful silence to the pattering of +grape-shot among our huts, and to the shrieks and groans of those who +lay wounded beside them. + +ATTACK. + +The night was now as dark as pitch, the moon being but young, and +totally obscured with clouds. Our fires deserted by us, and beat about +by the enemy’s shot, began to burn red and dull, and, except when the +flashes of those guns which played upon us cast a momentary glare, not +an object could be distinguished at the distance of a yard. In this +state we lay for nearly an hour, unable to move from our ground, or +offer any opposition to those who kept us there; when a straggling fire +of musketry called our attention towards the piquets, and warned us to +prepare for a closer and more desperate struggle. As yet, however, it +was uncertain from what cause this dropping fire arose. It might +proceed from the sentinels, who, alarmed by the cannonade from the +river, mistook every tree for an American; and till the real state of +the case should be ascertained, it would be improper to expose the +troops by moving any of them from the shelter which the bank afforded. +But these doubts were not permitted to continue long in existence. The +dropping fire having paused for a few moments, was succeeded by a +fearful yell; and the heavens were illuminated on all sides by a +semi-circular blaze of musketry. It was now manifest that we were +surrounded, and that by a very superior force; and that no alternative +remained, except to surrender at discretion, or to beat back the +assailants. + +The first of these plans was never for an instant thought of; the +second was immediately put into force. Rushing from under the bank, the +85th and 95th flew to support the piquets, whilst the 4th, stealing to +the rear of the encampment, formed close column, and remained as a +reserve. And now began a battle of which no language were competent to +convey any distinct idea; because it was one to which the annals of +modern warfare furnish no parallel. All order, all discipline were +lost. Each officer, as he succeeded in collecting twenty or thirty men +about him, plunged into the midst of the enemy’s ranks, where it was +fought hand to hand, bayonet to bayonet, and sabre to sabre. + +I am well aware that he who speaks of his own deeds in the field of +battle lies fairly open to the charge of seeking to make a hero of +himself in the eyes of the public; and feeling this, it is not without +reluctance that I proceed to recount the part which I myself took in +the affair of this night. But, in truth, I must either play the egotist +awhile, or leave the reader without any details at all; inasmuch as the +darkness and general confusion effectually prevented me from observing +how others, except my own immediate party, were employed. + +Offering this as my apology for a line of conduct which I should +otherwise blush to pursue, and premising that I did nothing, in my own +person, which was not done by my comrades at least as effectually, I go +on to relate as many of the particulars of this sanguinary conflict as +came under the notice of my own senses. + +My friend Grey and myself had been supplied by our soldiers with a +couple of fowls taken from a neighbouring hen-roost, and a few bottles +of excellent claret, borrowed from the cellar of one of the houses +near. We had built ourselves a sort of hut, by piling together, in a +conical form, a number of large stakes and broad rails torn up from one +of the fences; and a bright wooden fire was blazing at the door of it. +In the wantonness of triumph, too, we had lighted some six or eight +wax-candles; a vast quantity of which had been found in the store-rooms +of the chateaux hard by; and having done ample justice to our luxurious +supper, we were sitting in great splendour and in high spirits at the +entrance of our hut, when the alarm of the approaching schooner was +communicated to us. With the sagacity of a veteran, Grey instantly +guessed how matters stood: he was the first to hail the suspicious +stranger; and on receiving no answer to his challenge, he was the first +to fire a musket in the direction of her anchorage. But he had scarcely +done so when she opened her broadside, causing the instantaneous +abandonment of fires, viands, and mirth throughout the bivouac. + +As we contrived to get our men tolerably well around us, Grey and +myself were among the first who rushed forth to support the piquets and +check the advance of the enemy upon the right. Passing as rapidly as +might be through the ground of encampment amidst a shower of grape-shot +from the vessel, we soon arrived at the pond; which being forded, we +found ourselves in front of the farm-house of which I have already +spoken as composing the head-quarters of General Keane. Here we were +met by a few stragglers from the outposts, who reported that the +advanced companies were all driven in, and that a numerous division of +Americans was approaching. Having attached these fugitives to our +little corps, we pushed on, and in a few seconds reached the lower +extremity of a sloping stubble-field, at the other end of which we +could discern a long line of men, but whether they were friends or foes +the darkness would not permit ups to determine. We called aloud for the +purpose of satisfying our doubts; but the signal being disregarded, we +advanced. A heavy fire of musketry instantly opened upon us; but so +fearful was Grey of doing injury to our own troops, that he would not +permit it to be returned. We accordingly pressed on, our men dropping +by ones and twos on every side of us, till having arrived within twenty +or thirty yards of the object of our curiosity, it became to me evident +enough that we were in front of the enemy. Grey’s humane caution still +prevailed; he was not convinced, till he, should be convinced it was +but natural that he should alter his plans. There chanced to be near +the spot where we were standing a huge dung-heap, or rather a long +solid stack of stubble, behind which we directed the men to take +shelter whilst one of us should creep forward alone, for the purpose of +more completely ascertaining a fact of which all except my brave and +noble-minded comrade were satisfied. The event proved that my sight had +not deceived me: I approached within sabre’s length of the line; and +having ascertained beyond the possibility of doubt that the line was +composed of American soldiers, I returned to my friend and again urged +him to charge. But there was an infatuation upon him that night for +which I have ever been unable to account: he insisted that I must be +mistaken; he spoke of the improbability which existed that any part of +the enemy’s army should have succeeded in taking up a position in rear +of the station of one of our outposts, and he could not be persuaded +that the troops now before him were not the 95th Rifle corps. At last +it was agreed between us that we should separate; that Grey with one +half of the party should remain where he was, whilst I with the other +half should make a short detour to the right, and come down upon the +flank of the line from whose fire we had suffered so severely. The plan +was carried into immediate execution. Taking with me about a dozen or +fourteen men, I quitted Grey, and we never met again. + +How or when he fell I know not; but, judging from the spot and attitude +in which I afterwards found his body, I conceive that my back could +have been barely turned upon him when the fatal ball pierced his brain. +He was as brave a soldier and as good a man as the British army can +boast of; beloved by his brother officers and adored by his men. To me +he was as a brother; nor have I ceased even now to feel, as often as +the 23rd of December returns, that on that night a tie was broken than +which the progress of human life will hardly furnish one more tender or +more strong. But to my tale. + +Leaving Grey—careless as he ever was in battle of his own person, and +anxious as far as might be to secure the safety of his followers—I led +my little party in the direction agreed upon, and fortunately falling +in with about an equal number of English riflemen, I caused them to +take post beside my own men, and turned up to the front. Springing over +the paling, we found ourselves almost at once upon the left flank of +the enemy; and we lost not a moment in attacking it. But one volley was +poured in, and then bayonets, musket-butts, sabres, and even fists, +came instantly into play. In the whole course of my military career +remember no scene at all resembling this. We fought with the savage +ferocity of bull-dogs; and many a blade which till to-night had not +drunk blood became in a few minutes crimsoned enough. + +Such a contest could not in the nature of things be of very long +continuance. The enemy, astonished at the vigour of our assault, soon +began to waver, and their wavering was speedily converted into flight. +Nor did we give them a moment’s time to recover from their panic. With +loud shouts we continued to press upon them; and amidst the most +horrible din and desperate carnage drove them over the field and +through the little village of huts, of which notice has already been +taken as surrounding the mansion on our advanced right. Here we found a +number of our own people prisoners, and under a guard of Americans. But +the guard fled as we approached, and our countrymen catching up such +weapons as came first to hand, joined in the pursuit. + +In this spot I halted my party, increased by the late additions to the +number of forty; among whom were two gallant young officers of the +95th. We had not yet been joined, as I expected be joined, by Grey; and +feeling that we were at least far enough in advance of our own line, we +determined to attempt nothing further except to keep possession of the +village should it be attacked. But whilst placing the men in convenient +situations, another dark line was pointed out to us considerably to the +left our position. That we might ascertain at once of what troops was +composed, I left my brother officers to complete the arrangements which +we had begun, and walking down the field, demanded in a loud voice to +be informed who they were that kept post in so retired a situation. A +voice from the throng made answer that they were Americans, and begged +of me not fire upon my friends. Willing to deceive them still further, +I asked to what corps they belonged; the speaker replied that they were +the second battalion of the first regiment, and inquired what had +become of the first battalion. I told him that it was upon my right, +and assuming a tone of authority, commanded him not to move from his +present situation till I should join him with a party of which I was at +the head. + +The conversation ended here, and I returned to the village; when, +communicating the result of my inquiries to my comrades, we formed our +brave little band into line and determined to attack. The men were +cautioned to preserve a strict silence, and not to fire a shot till +orders were given; they observed these injunctions, and with fixed +bayonets and cautious tread advanced along the field. As we drew near, +I called aloud for the commanding officer of the second regiment to +step forward, upon which an elderly man, armed with a heavy dragoon +sabre, stepped out of the ranks. When he discovered by our dress that +we were English, this redoubtable warrior lost all self-command; he +resigned his sword to me without a murmur, and consented at once to +believe that his battalion was surrounded, and that to offer any +resistance would but occasion a needless loss of blood. Nor was he +singular in these respects: his followers, placing implicit reliance in +our assurances that they were hemmed in on every side by a very +superior force, had actually begun to lay down their arms, and would +have surrendered, in all probability, at discretion, but for the +superior gallantry of one man. An American officer, whose sword I +demanded, instead of giving it up as his commander had done, made a cut +at my head, which with some difficulty I managed to ward off; and a few +soldiers near him, catching ardour from his example, discharged their +pieces among our troops. The sound of firing was no sooner heard than +it became general, and as all hope of success by stratagem might now be +laid aside, we were of necessity compelled to try the effect of +violence. Again we rushed into the middle of the throng, and again was +the contest that of man to man, in close and desperate strife; till a +panic arising among the Americans, they dispersed in all directions and +left us masters of the field. + +In giving a detail so minute of my own adventures this night, I beg to +repeat what has been stated already, that I have no wish whatever to +persuade my readers that I was one whit more cool or more daring than +my companions. Like them I was driven to depend, from first to last, +upon my own energies; and I believe the energies of few men fail them +when they are satisfied that on them alone they must depend. Nor was +the case different with my comrades. Attacked unexpectedly, and in the +dark, surrounded, too, by a numerous enemy, and one who spoke the same +language with ourselves, it is not to be wondered at if the order and +routine of civilised warfare were everywhere set at nought. Each man +who felt disposed to command was obeyed by those who stood near him, +without any question being asked as to his authority; and more feats of +individual gallantry were performed in this single night than many +regular campaigns might furnish an opportunity to perform. + +The night was far spent, and the sound of firing had begun to wax +faint, when, checking the ardour of our brave followers, we collected +them once more together and fell back into the village. Here likewise +considerable numbers from other detachments assembled, and here we +learned that the Americans were repulsed on every side. The combat had +been long and obstinately contested: it began at eight o’clock in the +evening and continued till three in the morning—but the victory was +ours. True, it was the reverse of a bloodless one, not fewer than two +hundred fifty of our best men having fallen in the struggle: but even +at the expense of such a loss, we could not but account ourselves +fortunate in escaping from the snare in which we had confessedly taken. + +To me, however, the announcement of the victory brought no rejoicing, +for it was accompanied with the intelligence that my friend was among +the killed. I well recollect the circumstances under which these sad +news reached me. I was standing with a sword in each hand—my own and +that of the officer who had surrendered to me, and, as the reader may +imagine, in no bad humour with myself or with the brave fellows about +me, when a brother officer stepping forward abruptly told the tale. It +came me upon me like a thunderbolt; and casting aside my trophy, +thought only of the loss which I had sustained. Regardless of every +other matter I ran to the rear, and found Grey lying behind the +dung-heap, motionless and cold. A little pool of blood which had +coagulated under his head, pointed out the spot where the ball had +entered, and the position of his limbs gave proof that he must have +died without a struggle. I cannot pretend to describe what were then my +sensations, but of whatever nature they might be, little time was given +for their indulgence; the bugle sounding the alarm, I was compelled to +leave him as he lay, and to join my corps. Though the alarm proved to +be a false one, it had the good effect of bringing all the troops +together, by which means a regular line was now, for the first time +since the commencement of the action, formed. In this order, having +defiled considerably to the left, so as to command the highway, we +stood in front of our bivouac till dawn began to appear; when, to avoid +the fire of the schooner, we once more moved to the river’s bank and +lay down. Here, during the whole of the succeeding day, the troops were +kept shivering in the cold frosty air, without fires, without +provisions, and exhausted with fatigue; nor was it till the return of +night that any attempt to extricate them from their comfortless +situation could be made. + +FIELD OF BATTLE. + +Whilst others were thus reposing, I stole away with two or three men +for the purpose of performing the last sad act of affection which it +was possible for me to perform to my friend Grey. As we had completely +changed our ground, it was not possible for me at once to discover the +spot where he lay; indeed I traversed a large portion of the field +before I hit upon it. Whilst thus wandering over the arena of last +night’s contest, the most shocking and most disgusting spectacles +everywhere met my eyes. I have frequently beheld a greater number of +dead bodies within as narrow a compass, though these, to speak the +truth, were numerous enough, but wounds more disfiguring or more +horrible I certainly never witnessed. A man shot through the head or +heart lies as if he were in a deep slumber; insomuch that when you gaze +upon him you experience little else than pity. But of these, many had +met their deaths from bayonet wounds, sabre cuts, or heavy blows from +the butt ends of muskets; and the consequence was, that not only were +the wounds themselves exceedingly frightful, but the very countenances +of the dead exhibited the most savage and ghastly expressions. Friends +and foes lay together in small groups of four or six, nor was it +difficult to tell almost the very hand by which some of them had +fallen. Nay, such had been the deadly closeness of the strife, that in +one or two places an English and American soldier might be seen with +the bayonet of each fastened in the other’s body. + +Having searched for some time in vain, I at length discovered my friend +lying where during the action we had separated, and where, when the +action came to a close, I had at first found him, shot through the +temples by a rifle bullet so remarkably small as scarcely to leave any +trace of its progress. I am well aware that this is no fit place to +introduce the working of my own personal feelings, but he was my +friend, and such a friend as few men are happy enough to possess. We +had known and loved each other for years; our regard had been cemented +by a long participation in the same hardships and dangers, and it +cannot; therefore surprise, if even now I pay that tribute to his worth +and our friendship which, however unavailing it may be, they both +deserve. + +When in the act of looking for him I had flattered myself that I should +be able to bear his loss with something like philosophy, but when I +beheld him pale and bloody, I found all my resolution evaporate. I +threw myself on the ground beside him and wept, like a child. But this +was no time for the indulgence of useless sorrow. Like the royal bard, +I knew that I should go to him, but he could not return to me, and I +knew not whether an hour would pass before my summons might arrive. +Lifting him therefore upon a cart, I had him carried down to +head-quarter house, now converted into an hospital, and having dug for +him a grave at the bottom of the garden, I laid him there as a soldier +should be laid, arrayed, not in a shroud, but in his uniform. Even the +privates whom I brought with me to assist at his funeral mingled their +tears with mine, nor are many so fortunate as to return to the parent +dust more deeply or more sincerely lamented. + +FIELD OF BATTLE—HOSPITAL. + +Retiring from the performance of this melancholy duty, I strolled into +the hospital and visited the wounded. It is here that war loses its +grandeur and show, and presents only a real picture of its effects. +Every room in the house was crowded with wretches mangled, and +apparently in the most excruciating agonies. Prayers, groans, and, I +grieve to add, the most horrid exclamations, smote upon the ear +wherever I turned. Some lay at length upon straw, with eyes half closed +and limbs motionless; some endeavoured to start up, shrieking with +pain, while the wandering eye and incoherent speech of others indicated +the loss of reason, and usually foretold the approach of death. But +there was one among the rest whose appearance was too horrible ever to +be forgotten. He had been shot through the windpipe, and the breath +making its way between the skin and the flesh had dilated him to a size +absolutely terrific. His head and face were particularly shocking. +Every feature was enlarged beyond what can well be imagined; whilst his +eyes were so completely hidden by the cheeks and forehead as to destroy +all resemblance to a human countenance. + +Passing through the apartments where the private soldiers lay, I next +came to those occupied by officers. Of these there were five or six in +one small room, to whom little better accommodation could be provided +than to their inferiors. It was a sight peculiarly distressing, because +all of them chanced to be personal acquaintances of my own. One had +been shot in the head, and lay gasping and insensible; another had +received a musket- ball in the belly, which had pierced through and +lodged in the backbone. The former appeared to suffer but little, +giving no signs of life, except what a heavy breathing produced; the +latter was in the most dreadful agony, screaming out, and gnawing the +covering under which he lay. There were many besides these, some +severely and others slightly hurt; but as I have already dwelt at +sufficient length upon a painful subject, I shall only observe, that to +all was afforded every assistance which circumstances would allow, and +that the exertions of their medical attendants were such as deserved +and obtained the grateful thanks of even the most afflicted among the +sufferers themselves. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +ADVANCE. + + +In the mean time the rest of the troops were landing as fast as +possible, and hastening to join their comrades. Though the advance had +set out from Pine Island by themselves, they did not occupy all the +boats in the fleet. Part of the second brigade, therefore, had embarked +about twelve hours after their departure; and rowing leisurely on, were +considerably more than half way across the lakes when the action began. +In the stillness of night, however, it is astonishing at what distance +a noise is heard. Though they must have been at least twenty miles from +the Bayo when the schooner first opened her fire, the sound reaching +them roused the rowers from their indolence, who, pulling with all +their might, hurried on, whilst the most profound silence reigned among +the troops, and, gaining the creek in little more than three hours, +sent fresh reinforcements to share in the danger and glory of the +night. + +Nor was a moment lost by the sailors in returning to the island. +Intelligence of the combat spread like wildfire; the boats were loaded +even beyond what was strictly safe, and thus, by exerting themselves in +a degree almost unparalleled, our gallant seamen succeeded in bringing +the whole army into position before dark on the 24th. The second and +third brigades, therefore, now took up their ground upon the spot where +the late battle had been fought, and, resting their right upon the +woody morass, extended so far towards the river, as that the advance by +wheeling up might continue the line across the entire plain. + +But instead of taking part in this formation, the advance was still +fettered to the bank, from which it was additionally prevented from +moving by the arrival of another large ship, which, cast anchor about a +mile above the schooner. Thus were three battalions kept stationary by +the guns of these two formidable floating batteries, and it was clear +that no attempt to extricate them could be made without great loss, +unless under cover of night. During the whole of the 24th, therefore, +they remained in this uncomfortable situation; but as soon as darkness +had well set in, a change of position was effected. Withdrawing the +troops, company by company, from behind the bank, General Keane +stationed them in the village of huts, by which means the high road was +abandoned to the protection of a piquet, and the left of the army +covered by a large chateau. + +Being now placed beyond risk of serious annoyance from the shipping the +whole army remained quiet for the night. How long we were to continue +in this state nobody appeared to know; not a whisper was circulated as +to the time of advancing, nor a surmise ventured respecting the next +step likely to be taken. In our guides to whose rumours we had before +listened with avidity, no confidence was reposed. It was quite evident, +either that they had purposely deceived us, or that their information +was gathered from a most imperfect source; and hence, though they were +not exactly placed in confinement, they were strictly watched, and +treated more like spies than deserters. Instead of an easy conquest, we +had already met with a vigorous opposition; instead of finding the +inhabitants ready and eager to join us, we found the houses deserted, +the cattle and horses driven away, and every appearance of hostility. +To march by the only road was rendered impracticable; so completely was +it commanded by the shipping. In a word, all things had turned out +diametrically opposite to what had been anticipated; and it appeared +that, instead of a trifling affair more likely to fill our pockets than +to add to our renown, we had embarked in an undertaking which presented +difficulties not to be surmounted without patience and determination. + +Having effected this change of position, and covered the front of his +army with a strong chain of outposts, General Keane, as I have said, +remained quiet during the remainder of the night, and on the morrow was +relieved from further care and responsibility by the unexpected arrival +of Sir Edward Pakenham and General Gibbs. As soon as the death of Ross +was known in London, the former of these officers was dispatched to +take upon himself the command of the army. Sailing immediately with the +latter as his second in command, he had been favoured during the whole +voyage by a fresh and fair wind, and now arrived in time to see his +troops brought into a predicament from which all his abilities could +scarcely expect to extricate them. Nor were the troops themselves +ignorant of the unfavourable circumstances in which they stood. Hoping +everything, therefore, from a change, they greeted their new leader +with a hearty cheer; whilst the confidence which past events had tended +in some degree to dispel, returned once more to the bosoms of all. It +was Christmas-day, and a number of officers, clubbing their little +stock of provisions, resolved to dine together in memory of former +times. But at so melancholy a Christmas dinner I do not recollect at +any time to have been present. We dined in a barn; of plates, knives, +and forks, there was a dismal scarcity; nor could our fare boast of +much either in intrinsic good quality or in the way of cooking. These, +however, were mere matters of merriment; it was the want of many +well-known and beloved faces that gave us pain; nor were any other +subjects discussed besides the amiable qualities of those who no longer +formed part of our mess, and never would again form part of it. A few +guesses as to the probable success of future attempts alone relieved +this topic, and now and then a shot from the schooner drew our +attention to ourselves; for though too far removed from the river to be +in much danger, we were still within cannon-shot of our enemy. Nor was +she inactive in her attempts to molest. Elevating her guns to a great +degree, she contrived occasionally to strike the wall of the building +within which we sat; but the force of the ball was too far spent to +penetrate, and could therefore produce no serious alarm. + +Whilst we were thus sitting at table a loud shriek was heard after one +of these explosions, and on running out we found that a shot had taken +effect in the body of an unfortunate soldier. I mention this incident +because I never beheld in any human being so great a tenacity of life. +Though fairly cut in two at the lower part of the belly, the poor +wretch lived for nearly an hour, gasping for breath and giving signs +even of pain. + +But to return to my narrative. As soon as he reached the camp Sir +Edward proceeded to examine with a soldier’s eye every point and place +within view. Of the American army nothing, whatever could be perceived +except a corps of observation, composed of five or six hundred mounted +riflemen, which hovered along our front and watched our motions. The +town itself was completely hid; nor was it possible to see beyond the +distance of a very few miles either in front or rear, so flat and +unbroken was the face of the country. Under these circumstances little +insight into the state of affairs could be obtained by reconnoitring. +The only, thing, indeed, which he could learn from it was, that while +the vessels kept their present station upon river no advance could be +made; and as he felt that every moment’s delay was injurious to us and +favourable to the enemy, he resolved to remove these incumbrances and +to push forward as soon as possible. + +With this view nine field-pieces, two howitzers, and one mortar were +brought down to the brink of the stream as soon as it was dark. Working +parties were likewise ordered out, by whom was thrown up opposite to +the schooner; and having got all things in readiness, at dawn on the +26th a heavy cannonade was opened upon her with red-hot shot. It was +not long before we could perceive her crew hastening into their boats, +whilst the smoke which began to rise from her decks proved that the +balls had taken effect. She was, in fact, on fire, and being abandoned +without resistance, in little more than an hour she blew up. In itself +the sight was a fine one, but to us it was peculiarly gratifying, for +we could not but experience something like satiated revenge at the +destruction of a vessel from which we had suffered so much damage. A +loud shout accordingly followed the explosion, and the guns were +immediately turned against the ship. But the fate of her companion had +warned her not to remain till she herself should be attacked. Setting +every inch of canvas, and hoisting out her boats, she began, to stem +the stream at the very instant the schooner took fire, and being +impelled forward both by towing and sailing, she succeeded in getting +beyond the range of shot before the guns could be brought to bear. One +shell, however, was thrown with admirable precision, which falling upon +her deck caused considerable execution; but excepting this, she escaped +without injury, and did not anchor again till she had got too far for +pursuit. + +Having thus removed all apparent obstacles to his future progress, the +General made dispositions for a speedy advance. Dividing the army into +two columns, he appointed General Gibbs to the command of one, and +General Keane to the command of the other. The left column, led on by +the latter officer, consisted of the 95th, the 85th, the 93rd, and one +black corps; the right, of the 4th, 21st, 44th, and the other black +corps. The artillery, of which we had now ten pieces in the field, +though at present attached to the left column, was designed to act as +circumstances and the nature of the ground would permit; whilst the +dragoons, few of whom had as yet provided themselves with horses, were +appointed to guard the hospitals, and to secure the wounded from any +sudden surprise or molestation from the rear. + +But the day was too far spent in making these arrangements, and in +clearing the way for future operations, to permit any movement before +the morrow. The whole of the 26th was therefore spent in bringing up +stores, ammunition, and a few heavy guns from the ships, which being +placed in battery upon the banks of the river, secured us against the +return of our floating adversary. All this was done quietly enough, nor +was there any cause of alarm till after sunset; but from that time till +towards dawn, we were kept in a constant state of anxiety and +agitation. Sending down small bodies of riflemen, the American General +harassed our piquets, killed and wounded a few of the sentinels, and +prevented the main body from obtaining any sound refreshing sleep. +Scarcely had the troops lain down when they were roused by a sharp +firing at the outposts, which lasted only till they were in order, and +then ceased; but as soon as they had dispersed and had once more +addressed themselves to repose, the same cause of alarm returned, and +they were again called to their ranks. Thus was the entire night spent +in watching, or at best in broken and disturbed slumbers, than which +nothing is more trying, both to the health and spirits of an army. + +With the piquets, again, it fared even worse. For the outposts of an +army to sleep is at all times considered as a thing impossible; but in +modern and civilized warfare they are nevertheless looked upon as in +some degree sacred. Thus, whilst two European armies remain inactively +facing each other, the outposts of neither are molested, unless a +direct attack upon the main body be intended; nay, so far is this tacit +good understanding carried, that I have myself seen French and English +sentinels not more than twenty yards apart. But the Americans +entertained no such chivalric notions. An enemy was to them an enemy, +whether alone or in the midst of five thousand companions; and they +therefore counted the death of every individual as so much taken from +the strength of the whole. In point of fact they no doubt reasoned +correctly, but to us at least it appeared an ungenerous return to +barbarity. Whenever they could approach unperceived within proper +distance of our watch-fires, six or eight riflemen would fire amongst +the party that sat around them, while one or two, stealing as close to +each sentinel as a regard to their own safety would permit, acted the +part of assassins rather than that of soldiers, and attempted to murder +him in cold blood. For the officers, likewise, when going their rounds, +they constantly lay in wait, and thus, by a continued dropping fire, +they not only wounded some of those against whom their aim was +directed, but occasioned considerable anxiety and uneasiness throughout +the whole line. + +It was on this night, and under these circumstances, that I was +indebted to the vigilance of my faithful dog for my life. Amid all the +bustle of landing, and throughout the tumult of the nocturnal battle, +she never strayed from me; at least if she did lose me for a time, she +failed not to trace me out again as soon as order was restored, for I +found her by my side when the dawn of the 24th came in, and I never +lost sight of her afterwards. It was my fortune on the night of the +26th to be put in charge of an outpost on the left front of the army; +on such occasions I seldom experienced the slightest inclination to +sleep; and on the present, I made it a point to visit my sentinels at +least once in every, half-hour. Going my rounds for this purpose, it +was necessary that I should pass a little copse of low underwood, just +outside the line of our videttes; and I did pass it again and again, +without meeting with any adventure. But about an hour after midnight, +my dog, which, as usual, trotted a few paces before me, suddenly +stopped short at the edge of the thicket, and began to bark violently, +and in great apparent anger. I knew the animal well enough to be aware +that some cause must exist for such conduct; and I too stopped short, +till I should ascertain whether danger were near. It was well for me +that I had been thus warned; for at the instant of my halting, about +half a dozen muskets were discharged from the copse, the muzzles of +which, had I taken five steps forward, must have touched my body. The +balls whizzed harmlessly past my head; and, on my returning the fire +with the pistol which I carried in my hand, the ambuscade broke up, and +the party composing it took to their heels. I was Quixote enough to +dash sword in hand into the thicket after them: but no one waited for +me; so I continued my perambulations in peace. + +MARCH. + +Having continued this detestable system of warfare till towards +morning, the enemy retired and left us at rest. But as soon as day +began to break, our piquets were called in, and the troops formed in +order of attack. The right column, under General Gibbs, took post near +the skirts of the morass, throwing out skirmishers half way across the +plain, whilst the left column drew up upon the road covered by the +rifle corps, which in extended order met the skirmishers from the +other. With this last division went the artillery, already well +supplied with horses; and, at the signal given the whole moved forward. + +It was a clear frosty morning, the mists had dispersed, and the sun +shone brightly upon our arms when we began our march. The enemy’s corps +of observation fell back as we advanced, without offering in any way to +impede our progress, and it was impossible to guess, ignorant as we +were of the position of his main body, at what moment opposition might +be expected. Nor, in truth, was it matter of much anxiety. Our spirits, +in spite of the troubles of the night, were good, and our expectations +of success were high, consequently many rude jests were bandied about, +and many careless words spoken: for soldiers are, of all classes of +men, the freest from care, and on that account, perhaps, the most +happy. By being continually exposed to it, danger, with them, ceases to +be frightful; of death they have no more terror than the beasts that +perish; and even hardships, such as cold, wet, hunger, and broken rest, +lose at least part of their disagreeableness, by the frequency of their +recurrence. + +Moving on in this merry mood, we advanced about four or five miles +without the smallest check or hindrance; when, at length, we found +ourselves in view of the enemy’s army, posted in a very advantageous +manner. About forty yards in their front was a canal, which extended +from the morass to within a short distance of the high road. Along +their line were thrown up breastworks, not indeed completed, but even +now formidable. Upon the road at several other points were erected +powerful batteries; whilst the ship, with a large flotilla of +gun-boats, flanked the whole position from the river. + +ATTACK. + +When I say that we came in sight of the enemy, I do not mean that he +was gradually exposed to us in such a manner as to leave time for cool +examination and reflection. On the right, indeed, he was seen for some +time, but on the left a few houses built at a turning in the road +entirely concealed him; nor was it till they gained that turning, and +beheld the muzzles of his guns pointed towards them, that those who +moved in this direction were aware of their proximity to danger. But +that danger was indeed near they were quickly taught; for scarcely had +the head of the column passed the houses when a deadly fire was opened +from both the battery and the shipping. That the Americans are +excellent marksmen, as well with artillery as with rifles, we have had +frequent cause to acknowledge; but, perhaps, on no occasion did they +assert their claim to the title of good artillery-men more effectually +than on the present. Scarce a ball passed over or fell short of its +mark, but all striking full into the midst of our ranks, occasioned +terrible havoc. The shrieks of the wounded, therefore, the crash of +firelocks, and the fall of such as were killed; caused at first some +little confusion; and what added to the panic was, that from the houses +beside which we stood bright flames suddenly burst out. The Americans, +expecting this attack, had filled them with combustibles for the +purpose; and directing against them one or two guns, loaded with +red-hot shot, in an instant set them on fire. The scene was altogether +very sublime. A tremendous cannonade mowed down our ranks, and deafened +us with its roar; whilst two large chateaux and their outbuildings +almost scorched us with the flames, and blinded us with the smoke which +they emitted. + +The infantry, however, was not long suffered to remain thus exposed; +but being ordered to quit the path and to form line in the fields, the +artillery was brought up, and opposed to that of the enemy. But the +contest was in every respect unequal, since their artillery far +exceeded ours, both in numerical strength and weight of metal. The +consequence was, that in half an hour two of our field-pieces and one +field-mortar were dismounted: many of the gunners were killed; and the +rest, after an ineffectual attempt to silence the fire of the shipping, +were obliged to retire. + +In the mean time the infantry having formed line, advanced under a +heavy discharge of round and grape shot, till they were checked by the +appearance of the canal. Of its depth they were of course ignorant, and +to attempt its passage without having ascertained whether it could be +forded might have been productive of fatal consequences. A halt was +accordingly ordered, and the men were commanded to shelter themselves +as well as they could from the enemy’s fire. For this purpose they were +hurried into a wet ditch, of sufficient depth to cover the knees, +where, leaning forward, they concealed themselves behind some high +rushes which grew upon its brink, and thus escaped many bullets which +fell around them in all directions. + +RETREAT. + +Thus fared it with the left of the army, whilst the right, though less +exposed to the cannonade, was not more successful in its object. The +same impediment which checked one column forced the other likewise to +pause; and after having driven in an advanced body of the enemy, and +endeavoured, without effect, to penetrate through the marsh, it also +was commanded to halt. In a word, all thought of attacking was for this +day abandoned; and it now only remained to withdraw the troops from +their present perilous situation, with as little loss as possible. + +The first thing to be done was to remove the dismounted guns. Upon this +enterprise a party of seamen were employed, who, running forward to the +spot where they lay, lifted them, in spite of the whole of the enemy’s +fire, and bore them off in triumph. As soon as this was effected, +regiment after regiment stole away; not in a body, but one by one, +under the same discharge which saluted their approach. But a retreat +thus conducted necessarily occupied much time. Noon had therefore long +passed before the last corps was brought off; and when we again began +to muster twilight was approaching. We did not, however, retire to our +former position; but having fallen back only about two miles from the +canal, where it was supposed that we should be beyond reach of +annoyance from the American artillery, we there established ourselves +for the night, having suffered less during the day than, from our +exposed situation and the enemy’s heavy fire, might have been expected. + +The ground which we now occupied resembled, in almost every particular, +that which we had quitted. We again extended across the plain, from the +marsh to the river; no wood or cover of any description concealing our +line, or obstructing the view of either army; while both in front and +rear was an open space, laid out in fields and intersected by narrow +ditches. Our outposts, however were pushed forward to some houses +within a few hundred yards of the enemy’s works, sending out advanced +sentinels even farther; and the head-quarters of the army were +established near the spot where the action of the 23rd had been fought. + +PREPARATIONS. + +In this state we remained during the 28th, the 29th, and 30th, without +any efforts being made to fortify our own position, or to annoy that of +the enemy. Some attempts were, I believe, set on foot to penetrate into +the wood on the right of our line, and to discover a path through the +morass, by which the enemy’s left might be turned. But all of these +proved fruitless, and a few valuable lives having been sacrificed, the +idea was finally laid aside. In the meanwhile the American General +directed the whole of his attention to the strengthening of his post. +Day and night we could observe numerous parties at work upon his lines, +whilst from the increased number of tents, which almost every hour +might be discerned, it was evident that strong reinforcements were +continually pouring into his camp. Nor did he leave us totally +unmolested. By giving to his guns a great degree of elevation, he +contrived at last to reach our bivouac; and thus were we constantly +under a cannonade which, though it did little execution, proved +nevertheless extremely annoying. Besides this, he now began to erect +batteries on the opposite bank of the river; from which a flanking fire +could be thrown across the entire front of his position. In short, he +adopted every precaution which prudence could suggest, and for the +reception of which the nature of his ground was so admirably adapted. + +Under these circumstances it was evident that the longer an attack was +delayed the less likely was it to succeed; that something must be done +immediately every one perceived, but how to proceed was the difficulty. +If we attempted to storm the American lines, we should expose ourselves +to almost certain destruction from their artillery; to turn them was +impossible; and to draw their troops by any manoeuvring from behind +their entrenchments was a thing altogether out of the question. There +seemed therefore to be but one practicable mode of assault; which was, +to treat these field-works as one would treat a regular fortification; +by erecting breaching batteries against them, and silencing, if it were +possible, at least some of their guns. To this plan, therefore, our +leader had recourse; and, in consequence, the whole of these three days +were employed in landing heavy cannon, bringing up ammunition, and +making such preparations as might have sufficed for a siege. + +At length, having completed his arrangements, and provided such means +as were considered sufficient to ensure success, General Pakenham +determined to commence operations without delay. One half of the army +was accordingly ordered out on the night of the 31st, and marched to +the front, passing the piquets, and halting about three hundred yards +from the enemy’s line. Here it was resolved to throw up a chain of +works; and here the greater part of this detachment, laying down their +firelocks, applied themselves vigorously to their tasks, whilst the +rest stood armed and prepared for their defence. + +The night was dark, and our people maintained a profound silence; by +which means, not an idea of what was going on existed in the American +camp. As we laboured, too, with all diligence, six batteries were +completed long before dawn, in which were mounted thirty pieces of +heavy cannon; when, falling back a little way, we united ourselves to +the remainder of the infantry, and lay down behind some rushes, in +readiness to act, as soon as we should be wanted. + +In the erection of these batteries, a circumstance occurred worthy of +notice, on account of its singularity. I have already stated that the +whole of this district was covered with the stubble of sugar-cane; and +I might have added, that every storehouse and barn, attached to the +different mansions scattered over it, was filled with barrels of sugar. +In throwing up these works, the sugar was used instead of earth. +Rolling the hogsheads towards the front, they were placed upright in +the parapets of batteries; and it was computed that sugar to the value +of many thousand pounds sterling was thus disposed of. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +PREPARATIONS—ATTACK. + + +The infantry having retired, and the gunners taken their station, dawn +was anxiously expected. But the morning of the 1st of January chanced +to be peculiarly gloomy. A thick haze obscured for a long time the rays +of the sun, nor could objects be discerned with any accuracy till a +late hour. + +But at length the mist gave way, and the American camp was fully +exposed to view. Being at this time only three hundred yards distant, +we could perceive all that was going forward with great exactness. The +different regiments were upon parade; and being dressed in holiday +suits, presented really a fine appearance. Mounted officers were riding +backwards and forwards through the, ranks, bands were playing, and +colours floating in the air; in a word, all seemed jollity and gala; +when suddenly our batteries opened, and the face of affairs was +instantly changed. The ranks were broken; the different corps +dispersing, fled in all directions, whilst the utmost terror and +disorder appeared to prevail. Instead of nicely-dressed lines, nothing +but confused crowds could now be observed; nor was it without much +difficulty that order was finally restored. Oh, that we had charged at +that instant! + +RETREAT—PAUSE. + +Whilst this consternation prevailed among the infantry, their artillery +remained silent; but as soon as the former rallied, they also recovered +confidence, and answered our salute with great rapidity and precision. +A heavy cannonade quickly commenced on both sides, and continued during +the whole of the day; till, towards evening, our ammunition began to +fail, and our fire in consequence to slacken. The fire of the +Americans, on the other hand, was redoubled: landing a number of guns +from the flotilla, they increased their artillery to a prodigious +amount; and directing at the same time the whole force of their cannon +on the opposite bank against the flank of our batteries, they soon +convinced us that all endeavours to surpass them in this mode of +fighting would be useless. Once more, therefore, were we obliged to +retire, leaving our heavy guns to their fate; but as no attempt was +made by the Americans to secure them, working parties were again sent +out after dark, and such as had not been destroyed were removed. + +Of the fatigue undergone during these operations by the whole army, +from the General down to the meanest sentinel, it would be difficult to +form an adequate conception. For two whole nights and days not a man +had closed an eye, except such as were cool enough to sleep amidst +showers of cannon-ball; and during the day scarcely a moment had been +allowed in which we were able so much as to break our fast. We retired, +therefore, not only baffled and disappointed, but in some degree +disheartened and discontented. All our plans had as yet proved +abortive; even this, upon which so much reliance had been placed, was +found to be of no avail; and it must be confessed that something like +murmuring began to be heard through the camp. And, in truth, if ever an +army might be permitted to murmur, it was this. In landing they had +borne great hardships, not only without repining, but with +cheerfulness; their hopes had been excited by false reports, as to the +practicability of the attempt in which they were embarked; and now they +found themselves entangled amidst difficulties from which there +appeared to be no escape, except by victory. In their attempts upon the +enemy’s line, however, they had been twice foiled; in artillery they +perceived themselves to be so greatly overmatched, that their own could +hardly assist them; their provisions, being derived wholly from the +fleet, were both scanty and coarse; and their rest was continually +broken. For not only did the canon and mortars from the main of the +enemy’s position play unremittingly upon them both by day and night, +but they were likewise exposed to a deadly fire from the opposite bank +of the river, where no less than eighteen pieces of artillery were now +mounted, and swept the entire line of our encampment. Besides all this, +to undertake the duty of a piquet was as dangerous as to go into +action. Parties of American sharpshooters harassed and disturbed those +appointed to that service from the time they took possession of their +post till they were relieved; whilst to light fires at night was +impossible, because they served but as certain marks for the enemy’s +gunners. I repeat, therefore, that a little murmuring could not be +wondered at. Be it observed, however, that these were not the murmurs +of men anxious to escape from a disagreeable situation by any means. On +the contrary, they resembled rather the growling of a chained dog, when +he sees his adversary and cannot reach him; for in all their +complaints, no man ever hinted at a retreat, whilst all were eager to +bring matters to the issue of a battle, at any sacrifice of loves. + +Nor was our gallant leader less anxious to fight than his followers. To +fight upon something like equal terms was, however, his wish; and for +this purpose a new scheme was invented, worthy, for its boldness, of +the school in which Sir Edward had studied his profession. It was +determined to divide the army, to send part across the river, who +should seize the enemy’s guns, and turn them on themselves; whilst the +remainder should at time make a general assault along the whole +entrenchment. But before this plan could be put into execution, it +would be necessary to cut a canal across the entire neck of land from +the Bayo de Catiline to the river, of sufficient width and depth to +admit of boats being brought up from the lake. Upon this arduous +undertaking were the troops immediately employed. Being divided into +four companies, they laboured by turns, day and night; one party +relieving another after a stated number of hours, in such order as that +the work should never be entirely deserted. The fatigue undergone +during the prosecution of this attempt no words can sufficiently +describe; yet it was pursued without repining, and at length, by +unremitting exertions, they succeeded in effecting their purpose by the +6th of January. + +Whilst these things were going on, and men’s minds were anxiously +turned towards approaching events, fresh spirit was given to the army +by the unexpected arrival of Major-General Lambert, with the 7th and +43rd; two fine battalions, mustering each 800 effective men. By this +reinforcement, together with the addition of a body of sailors and +marines from the fleet, our numbers amounted now to little short of +6000 men; a force which, in almost any other quarter of America, would +have been irresistible. Of the numbers of the enemy, again, various +reports were in circulation; some stating them at 20,000, others at +30,000; but I believe that I come nearer the truth when I suppose their +whole force to have comprised 12,000 men of all arms. It is, at least, +certain that they exceeded us in numbers as much as they did in +resources; and that scarcely an hour passed which did not bring in new +levies to their camp. + +The canal, as I have stated, being finished on the 6th, it was resolved +to lose no time in making use of it. Boats were accordingly ordered up +for the transportation of 1400 men; and Colonel Thornton, with the 85th +regiment, the marines, and a party of sailors, was appointed to cross +the river. But a number of untoward accidents occurred, to spoil a plan +of operations as accurately laid down as any in the course of the war. +The soil through which the canal was dug being soft, part of the bank +gave way, and, choking up the channel, prevented the heaviest of the +boats from getting forward. These again blocked up the passage, so that +none of those which were behind could proceed; and thus, instead of a +flotilla for the accommodation of 1400 men, only a number of boats +sufficient to contain 350 was enabled to reach their destination. Even +these did not arrive at the time appointed. According to the +preconcerted plan, Colonel Thornton’s detachment was to cross the river +immediately after dark. They were to push forward, so as to carry all +the batteries, and point the guns before daylight; when, on the +throwing up of a rocket, they were to commence firing upon the enemy’s +line, which at the same moment was to be attacked by the main off our +army. + +In this manner was one part of the force to act, whilst the rest thus +appointed:—Dividing his troops into three columns, Sir Edward directed +that General Keane, at the head of the 95th, the light companies of the +21st, 4th, and 44th, together with the two black corps, should make a +demonstration, or sham attack, upon the right; that General Gibbs, with +the 4th, 21st, 44th, and 93rd, should force the enemy’s left, whilst +General Lambert, with the 7th and 43rd, remained in reserve, ready to +act as circumstances might require. But in storming an entrenched +position, something more than bare courage is required. Scaling ladders +and fascines had, therefore, been prepared, with which to fill up the +ditch and mount the wall; and since to carry these a service of danger, +requiring a corps well worthy of dependence, the 44th was for that +purpose selected, as a regiment of sufficient numerical strength, and +already accustomed to American warfare. Thus were all things arranged +on the night the 7th, for the 8th was fixed upon as the day decisive of +the fate of New Orleans. + +ATTACK. + +Whilst the rest of the army lay down to sleep till they should be +roused up to fight, Colonel Thornton, with the 85th, and a corps of +marines and seamen, amounting in all to 1400 men, moved down to the +brink of the river. As yet, however, no boats had arrived; hour after +hour elapsed before they came; and when they did come, the misfortunes +which I have stated above were discovered, for out of all that had been +ordered up, only a few made their appearance. Still it was absolutely +necessary that this part of the plan should be carried into execution. +Dismissing, therefore, the rest of his followers, the Colonel put +himself at the head of his own regiment, about fifty seamen, and as +many marines, and with this small force, consisting of no more than 340 +men, pushed off. But, unfortunately, the loss of time nothing could +repair. Instead of reaching the opposite bank at latest by midnight, +dawn was beginning to appear before the boats quitted the canal. It was +in vain that they rowed on in perfect silence, and with oars muffled, +gaining the point of debarkation without being perceived. It was in +vain that they made good their landing and formed upon the beach, +without opposition or alarm; day had already broke, and the +signal-rocket was seen in the air, while they were yet four miles from +the batteries, which ought hours ago to have been taken. + +In the mean time, the main body armed and moved forward some way in +front of the piquets. There they stood waiting for daylight, and +listening with the greatest anxiety for the firing which ought now to +be heard on the opposite bank. But their attention was exerted in vain, +and day dawned upon them long before they desired its appearance. Nor +was Sir Edward Pakenham disappointed in this part of his plan alone. +Instead of perceiving everything in readiness for the assault, he saw +his troops in battle array, but not a ladder or fascine upon the field. +The 44th, which was appointed to carry them, had either misunderstood +or neglected their orders; and now headed the column of attack, without +any means being provided for crossing the enemy’s ditch or scaling his +rampart. + +The indignation of our brave leader on this occasion may be imagined, +but cannot be described. Galloping towards Colonel Mullens, who led the +44th, he commanded him instantly to return with his regiment for the +ladders, but the opportunity of planting them was lost, and though they +were brought up, it was only to be scattered over the field by the +frightened bearers. For our troops were by this time visible to the +enemy. A dreadful fire was accordingly opened upon them, and they were +mowed down by hundreds, while they stood waiting for orders. + +Seeing that all his well-laid plans were frustrated, Pakenham gave the +word to advance, and the other regiments, leaving the 44th with the +ladders and fascines behind them, rushed on to the assault. On the +left, a detachment under Colonel Rennie, of the 21st regiment, stormed +a three-gun battery, and took it. Here they remained for some time in +expectation of support; but none arriving, and a strong column of the +enemy forming for its recovery, they determined to anticipate the +attack, and pushed on. The battery which they had taken was in advance +of the body of the works, being cut off from it by a ditch, across +which only a single plank was thrown. Along this plank did these brave +men attempt to pass; but being opposed by overpowering numbers, they +were repulsed; and the Americans, in turn, forcing their way into the +battery, at length succeeded in recapturing it with immense slaughter. +On the right, again, the 21st and 4th, supported by the 93rd, though +thrown into some confusion by the enemy’s fire, pushed on with +desperate gallantry to the ditch; but to scale the parapet without +ladders was a work of no slight difficulty. Some few, indeed, by +mounting one upon another’s shoulders, succeeded in entering the works, +but these were speedily overpowered, most of them killed, and the rest +taken; whilst as many as stood without were exposed to a sweeping fire, +which cut them down by whole companies. It was in vain that the most +obstinate courage was displayed. They fell by the hands of men whom +they absolutely did not see; for the Americans, without so much as +lifting their faces above the rampart, swung their firelocks by one arm +over the wall, and discharged them directly upon their heads. The whole +of the guns likewise, from the opposite bank, kept up a well-directed +and deadly cannonade upon their flank; and thus were they destroyed +without an opportunity being given of displaying their valour, or +obtaining so much as revenge. + +Sir Edward saw how things were going, and did all that a general could +do to rally his broken troops. Riding towards the 44th, which had +returned to the ground, but in great disorder, he called out for +Colonel Mullens to advance; but that officer disappeared, and was not +to be found. He therefore prepared to lead them on himself, and had put +himself at their head for that purpose, when he received a slight wound +in the knee from a musket-ball, which killed his horse. Mounting +another, he again headed the 44th, when a second ball took effect more +fatally, and he dropped lifeless into the arms of his aide-de-camp. + +Nor were Generals Gibbs and Keane inactive. Riding through the ranks, +they strove by all means to encourage the assailants and recall the +fugitives; till at length both were wounded, and borne off the field. +All was now confusion and dismay. Without leaders, ignorant of what was +to be done, the troops first halted and then began to retire; till +finally the retreat was changed into a flight, and they quitted the +ground in the utmost disorder. But the retreat was covered in gallant +style by the reserve. Making a forward motion, the 7th and 43rd +presented the appearance of a renewed attack; by which the enemy were +so much awed, that they did not venture beyond their lines in pursuit +of the fugitives. + +Whilst affairs were thus disastrously conducted in this quarter, the +party under Colonel Thornton had gained the landing-place. On stepping +ashore, the first thing they beheld was a rocket thrown up as a signal +that the battle was begun. This unwelcome sight added wings to their +speed. Forming in one little column, and pushing forward a single +company as an advanced guard, they hastened on, and in half an hour +reached a canal, along the opposite bank of which a detachment of +Americans was drawn up. To dislodge them was the work of a moment a +boat, with a carronade in her bow, got upon their flank, gave them a +single discharge of grape, whilst the advanced guard extended its +ranks, and approached at double-quick time. But they scarcely waited +till the latter were within range, when, firing a volley, they fled in +confusion. This, however, was only an outpost: the main body was some +way in rear, and amounted to no fewer than 1500 men. + +It was not long, however, before they likewise presented themselves. +Like their countrymen on the other side, they were strongly entrenched, +a thick parapet with a ditch covering their front; whilst a battery +upon their left swept the whole position, and two field-pieces +commanded the road. Of artillery the assailants possessed not a single +piece, nor any means beyond what nature supplied of scaling the +rampart. Yet nothing daunted by the obstacles before them, or by the +immense odds to which they were opposed, dispositions for an immediate +attack were made. The 85th, extending its files, stretched across the +entire line of the enemy; the sailors in column prepared to storm the +battery, whilst the marines remained some little way in rear of the +centre as a reserve. + +These arrangements being completed, the bugle sounded, and our troops +advanced. The sailors raising a shout, rushed forward, but were met by +so heavy a discharge of grape and canister that for an instant they +paused. Recovering themselves, however, they again pushed on; and the +85th dashing forward to their aid, they received a heavy fire of +musketry, and endeavoured to charge. A smart firing was now for a few +minutes kept up on both sides, but our people had no time to waste in +distant fighting, and accordingly hurried on to storm the works, upon +which a panic seized the Americans, they lost their order, and fled, +leaving us in possession of their tents and of eighteen pieces of +cannon. + +In this affair our loss amounted to only three men killed and about +forty wounded, among the latter of whom was Colonel Thornton. Nor could +the loss on the part of the enemy greatly exceed our own. Had they +stood firm, indeed, it is hardly conceivable that so small a force +could have wrested an entrenched position from numbers so superior; at +least it could not have been done without much bloodshed. But they were +completely surprised. An attack on this side was a circumstance of +which they had not dreamed; and when men are assaulted in a point which +they deem beyond the reach of danger, it is well known that they defend +themselves with less vigour than where such an event was anticipated. + +When in the act of storming these lines the word was passed through our +ranks that all had gone well on the opposite bank. This naturally added +to the vigour of the assault; but we had not followed our flying enemy +above two miles when we were commanded to halt. The real state of the +case had now reached us, and the same messenger who brought the +melancholy news brought likewise an order to return. + +The place where we halted was in rear of a canal, across which was +thrown a wooden bridge, furnishing apparently the only means of +passing. At the opposite end of this bridge stood a collection of +wooden cottages and one chateau of some size. Here a company was +stationed to serve the double purpose of a piquet and a rear-guard; +whilst the main body, having rested for half an hour, began their march +towards the point where they had landed. + +RE-EMBARKATION—THE CAMP. + +As soon as the column had got sufficiently on their way the piquet +likewise prepared to follow. But in doing so it was evident that some +risk must be run. The enemy having rallied, began again to show a +front; that is to say, parties of sixty or a hundred men approached to +reconnoitre. These, however, must be deceived, otherwise a pursuit +might be commenced, and the re-embarkation of the whole corps hindered +or prevented. It so happened that the piquet in question was this day +under my command; as soon, therefore, as I received information that +the main body had commenced its retreat, I formed my men, and made a +show of advancing. The Americans perceiving this, fled; when, wheeling +about, we set fire to the chateau, and under cover of the smoke +destroyed the bridge and retreated. Making all haste towards the rear, +we overtook our comrades just as they had begun to embark; when the +little corps being once more united, entered their boats, and reached +the opposite bank without molestation. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +THE CAMP. + + +As soon as the whole army was re-united, and the broken regiments had +recovered their order, a flag of truce was dispatched with proposals +for the burial of the dead. To accomplish this end a truce of two days +was agreed upon, and parties were immediately sent out to collect and +bury their fallen comrades. Prompted by curiosity, I mounted my horse +and rode to the front; but of all the sights I ever witnessed, that +which met me there was beyond comparison the most shocking and the most +humiliating. Within the narrow compass of a few hundred yards were +gathered together nearly a thousand bodies, all of them arrayed in +British uniforms. Not a single American was among them; all were +English; and they were thrown by dozens into shallow holes, scarcely +deep enough to furnish them with a slight covering of earth. Nor was +this all. An American officer stood by smoking a cigar, and apparently +counting the slain with a look of savage exultation, and repeating over +and over to each individual that approached him, that their loss +amounted only, to eight men killed and fourteen wounded. + +I confess that when I beheld the scene I hung down my head, half in +sorrow and half in anger. With my officious informant I had every +inclination to pick a quarrel; but he was on duty, and an armistice +existed, both of which forbade the measure. I could not, however, stand +by and repress my choler, and since to give it vent would have +subjected me to more serious inconvenience than a mere duel, I turned +my horse’s head and galloped back to the camp. + +But the change of expression visible there in every countenance no +language can portray. Only twenty hours ago, and all was life and +animation; wherever you went you were enlivened by the sound of +merriment and raillery; whilst the expected attack was mentioned in +terms indicative not only of sanguine hope, but, of the most perfect +confidence as to its result. Now gloom and discontent everywhere +prevailed. Disappointment, grief, indignation, and rage, succeeded each +other in all bosoms; nay, so completely were the troops overwhelmed by +a sense of disgrace, that for awhile they retained their sorrow without +so much as hinting at its cause. Nor was this dejection occasioned +wholly by the consciousness of laurels tarnished. The loss of comrades +was to the full as afflicting as the loss of honour; for out of more +than 5000 men brought on this side into the field, no fewer than 1500 +had fallen. Among these were two generals (for Gibbs survived his wound +but a few hours), and many officers of courage and ability; besides +which, hardly an individual survived who had not to mourn the loss of +some particular and well-known companion. + +Yet it is most certain that amidst all this variety of conflicting +passions no feeling bordering upon despair or even terror found room. +Even among the private soldiers no fear was experienced; for if you +attempted to converse with them on the subject of the late defeat, they +would end with a bitter curse upon those to whose misconduct they +attributed their losses, and refer you to the future, when they hoped +for an opportunity of revenge. To the Americans they would allow no +credit, laying the entire blame of the failure upon certain individuals +among themselves; and so great was the indignation expressed against +one corps, that the soldiers of other regiments would hardly exchange +words with those who chanced to wear that uniform. Though deeply +afflicted, therefore, we were by no means disheartened, and even, yet +anticipated, with an eagerness far exceeding what was felt before, a +renewal of the combat. + +PREPARATIONS FOR RETREAT. + +But General Lambert, on whom the chief command had devolved, very +prudently determined not to risk the safety of his army by another +attempt upon works evidently so much beyond their strength. He +considered, and considered justly, that his chances of success were in +every respect lessened by the late repulse. In the first place, an +extraordinary degree of confidence was given to the enemy; in the next +place, the only feasible plan of attack having been already tried, they +would be more on their guard to prevent its being again put in +execution; and lastly, his own force was greatly diminished in numbers, +whilst theirs continued every day to increase. Besides, it would be +casting all upon the hazard of a die. If again defeated, nothing could +save our army from destruction, because unless it retreated in force no +retreat could be effected. A retreat, therefore, whilst yet the measure +appeared practicable, was resolved upon, and towards that end were all +our future operations directed. + +To the accomplishment of this desirable object, however, one great +obstacle existed: by what road were the troops to travel, and in what +order were they to regain the fleet? On landing we had taken advantage +of the creek or bayo, and thus come up by water within two miles of the +cultivated country. But to adopt a similar course in returning was +impossible. In spite of our losses there were not throughout the +armament a sufficient number of boats to transport above one-half of +the army at a time. If, however, we should separate, the chances were +that both parties would be destroyed; for those embarked might be +intercepted, and those left behind would be obliged to cope with the +entire American force. Besides, even granting that the Americans might +be repulsed, it would be impossible to take to our boats in their +presence, and thus at least one division, if not both, must be +sacrificed. + +To obviate this difficulty prudence required that the road which we had +formed on landing should be continued to the very margin of the lake; +whilst appearances seemed to indicate the total impracticability of the +scheme. From firm ground to the water’s edge was here a distance of +many miles, through the very centre of a morass where human foot had +never before trodden. Yet it was desirable at least to make the +attempt; for if it failed we should only be reduced to our former +alternative of gaining a battle or surrendering at discretion. + +Having determined to adopt this course, General Lambert immediately +dispatched strong working parties, under the guidance of engineer +officers, to lengthen the road, keeping as near as possible to the +margin of the creek. But the task assigned to them was burthened with +innumerable difficulties. For the extent of several leagues no firm +footing could be discovered on which to rest the foundation of a path; +nor any trees to assist in forming hurdles. All that could be done, +therefore, was to bind together large quantities of reeds, and lay them +across the quagmire; by which means at least the semblance of a road +was produced, however wanting in firmness and solidity. But where broad +ditches came in the way, many of which intersected the morass, the +workmen were necessarily obliged to apply more durable materials. For +these, bridges composed in part of large branches brought with immense +labour from the woods, were constructed; but they were, on the whole, +little superior in point of strength to the rest of the path, for +though the edges were supported by timber, the middle was filled up +only with reeds. + +To complete this road, bad as it was, occupied the space of nine days, +during which time our army remained in position without making any +attempt to molest the enemy. The Americans, however, were not so +inactive. In the course of two days six guns were again mounted upon +the bank of the river, from which a continual fire was kept up upon our +camp. The same mode of proceeding was adopted in front, and thus, night +and day, were we harassed by danger against which there was no +fortifying ourselves. Of the extreme unpleasantness of our situation it +is hardly possible to convey any adequate conception. We never closed +our eyes in peace, for we were sure to be awakened before many minutes +elapsed, by the splash of a round shot or shell in the mud beside us. +Tents we had none, but lay, some in the open air, and some in huts made +of boards, or any materials that could be procured. From the first +moment of our landing not a man had undressed excepting to bathe; and +many had worn the same shirt for weeks together, Besides all this, +heavy rains now set in, accompanied with violent storms of thunder and +lightning, which lasting during the entire day, usually ceased towards +dark, and gave place to keen frosts. Thus were we alternately wet and +frozen: wet all day, and frozen all night. With the outposts again +there was constant skirmishing. With what view the Americans wished to +drive them in I cannot tell; but every day were they attacked, and +compelled to maintain their ground by dint of hard fighting. In one +word, none but those who happened to belong to this army can form a +notion of the hardships which it endured and the fatigue which it +underwent. + +Nor were these the only evils which tended to lessen our numbers. To +our soldiers every inducement was held out by the enemy to desert. +Printed papers, offering lands and money as the price of desertion, +were thrown into the piquets, whilst individuals made a practice of +approaching our posts, and endeavouring to persuade the very sentinels +to quit their stations. Nor could it be expected that bribes so +tempting would always be refused. Many desertions began daily to take +place, and became before long so frequent, that the evil rose to be of +a serious nature. + +There occurred, however, one instance of magnanimous fidelity on the +part of a British soldier, which I cannot resist the inclination of +repeating. A private of the 95th, whose name I should have joyfully +mentioned had I not forgotten it, chanced one day to stand sentinel, +when he was addressed by an American officer. The American offered him +a hundred dollars and a quantity of land if he would come over; +representing, at the same time, the superiority of a democratical +government, and railing, as these persons generally do, against the +title of king. Though the Englishman heard what was said distinctly +enough, he nevertheless pretended to be deaf, and begged his tempter to +come a little nearer, that, in his own words, “he might tell him all +about it.” Jonathan, exulting at the prospect of drawing this fine +fellow from his duty, approached within twenty paces of where he stood, +when just as he had opened his mouth to renew his offer, the sentinel +levelled his piece and shot him through the arm. Nor was he contented +with inflicting this punishment. Walking forward, he seized his wounded +enemy, and reproaching him with dishonourable dealings, brought him in +a prisoner to the camp. But, unhappily, conduct such as this was rare; +in the course of a week many men quitted their colours, and fled to the +enemy. + +RETREAT. + +In the mean time the whole of the wounded, except such as were too +severely hurt to be removed, were embarked upon the canal, and sent off +to the fleet. Next followed the baggage and stores, with the civil +officers, commissaries, purveyors, &c.; and last of all, such of the +light artillery as could be withdrawn with out trouble or the risk of +discovery. But of the heavy artillery, of which about ten pieces were +mounted in front of the bivouac, and upon the bank of the river, no +account was taken. They were ship’s guns, of little value, and +extremely cumbersome; consequently their removal, had it been +practicable, would scarcely have rewarded the trouble. It was therefore +determined to leave them behind; and they were accordingly permitted to +retain their stations to the last. + +These preparations being continued for some days, on the 17th no part +of our force remained in camp except the infantry. Having therefore +delayed only till the abandoned guns were rendered unserviceable, on +the evening of the 18th it also began its retreat. Trimming the fires, +and arranging all things in the same order as if no change were to take +place, regiment after regiment stole away, as soon as darkness +concealed their motions; leaving the piquets to follow as a rear-guard, +but with strict injunctions not to retire till daylight began to +appear. As may be supposed, the most profound silence was maintained; +not a man opening his mouth, except to issue necessary orders, and even +then speaking in a whisper. Not a cough or any other noise was to be +heard from the head to the rear of the column; and even the steps of +the soldiers were planted with care, to prevent the slightest stamping +or echo. Nor was this extreme caution in any respect unnecessary. In +spite of every endeavour to the contrary, a rumour of our intended +movement had reached the Americans for we found them of late watchful +and prying, whereas they had been formerly content to look only to +themselves. + +For some time, that is to say, while our route lay along the high road +and beside the brink of the river, the march was agreeable enough; but +as soon as we began to enter upon the path through the marsh all +comfort was at an end. Being constructed of materials so slight, and +resting upon a foundation so infirm, the treading of the first corps +unavoidably beat it to pieces; those which followed were therefore +compelled to flounder on in the best way they could; and by the time +the rear of the column gained the morass all trace of a way had +entirely disappeared. But not only were the reeds torn asunder and sunk +by the pressure of those who had gone before, but the bog itself, which +at first might have furnished a few spots of firm footing, was trodden +into the consistency of mud. The consequence was, that every step sank +us to the knees, and frequently higher. Near the ditches, indeed, many +spots occurred which we had the utmost difficulty in crossing at all; +and as the night was dark, there being no moon, nor any light except +what the stars supplied, it was difficult to select our steps, or even +to follow those who called to us that they were safe on the opposite +side. At one of these places I myself beheld an unfortunate wretch +gradually sink till he totally disappeared. I saw him flounder in, +heard his cry for help, and ran forward with the intention of saving +him; but before I had taken a second step, I myself sank at once as +high as the breast. How I contrived to keep myself from smothering is +more than I can tell, for I felt no solid bottom under me, and +continued slowly to go deeper and deeper till the mud reached my arms. +Instead of endeavouring to help the poor soldier, of whom nothing could +now be seen except the head and hands, I was forced to beg assistance +for myself: when a leathern canteen strap being thrown to me, I laid +hold of it, and was dragged out just as my fellow-sufferer became +invisible. + +Over roads such as these did we continue our journey during the whole +of the night: and in the morning reached a place called Fisherman’s +huts, upon the margin of the lake. The name is derived from a clump of +mud-built cottages, situated in as complete a desert as the eye of man +was ever pained by beholding. They stand close to the water, upon a +part of the morass rather more firm than the rest. Not a tree or bush +of any description grows near them. As far as the eye could reach a +perfect ocean of reeds everywhere presented itself, except on that side +where a view of the lake changed without fertilizing the prospect. Were +any set of human beings condemned to spend their lives here, I should +consider their fate as little superior to that of the solitary captive: +but during many months of the year these huts are wholly unoccupied, +being erected, as their name denotes, merely to shelter a few fishermen +while the fishing season lasts. + +Here at length we were ordered to halt; and perhaps I never rejoiced +more sincerely at any order than at this. Wearied with my exertions, +and oppressed with want of sleep, I threw myself on the ground without +so much as pulling off my muddy garments, and in an instant all my +cares and troubles were forgotten. Nor did I wake from that deep +slumber for many hours, when I rose cold and stiff, and creeping beside +a miserable fire of reeds, addressed myself to the last morsel of salt +pork which my wallet contained. + +HALT. + +The whole army had now come up, the piquets having escaped without +notice, or at least without annoyance. Forming along the brink of the +lake, a line of outposts was planted, and the soldiers were commanded +to make themselves as comfortable as they could. But, in truth, the +word comfort is one which cannot in any sense be applied to people in +such a situation. Without tents or huts of any description (for the few +from which the place is named were occupied by the General and other +heads of departments), our bed was the morass, and our sole covering +the clothes which had not quitted our backs for upwards of a month. Our +fires, upon the size and goodness of which much of a soldier’s +happiness depends, were composed solely of reeds; a species of fuel +which, like straw, soon blazes up, and soon expires again, almost +without communicating any degree of warmth. But, above all, our +provisions were expended, and from what quarter to obtain an immediate +supply it defied the most inventive genius to discover. Our sole +dependence was upon the boats. Of these a flotilla lay ready to receive +us, in which were embarked the black corps, with the 44th; but they had +brought with them only food for their own use. It was therefore +necessary that they should reach the fleet and return again before they +could furnish us with what we so much wanted. But the distance to the +nearest of the shipping could not be less than eighty miles; and if the +weather should become boisterous or the winds obstinately adverse we +might starve before any supply could arrive. + +These numerous grievances were, however, without remedy, and we bore +them with patience; though for two whole days the only provisions +issued to the troops were some crumbs of biscuit and a small allowance +of rum. For my own part I did not fare so badly as many others. Having +been always fond of shooting, I took a firelock and went in pursuit of +wild ducks, which abounded throughout the bog. Wandering along in this +quest I reached a lake, by the margin of which I concealed myself and +waited for my prey; nor was it long before I had an opportunity of +firing. Several large flocks flew over me, and I was fortunate enough +to kill three birds. But, alas, those birds, upon which I had already +feasted in imagination, dropped into the water: my dog, more tired than +her master, would not fetch them out, and they lay about twenty yards +off, tantalizing me with the sight of a treasure which I could not +reach. Moving off to another point, I again took my station where I +hoped for better fortune; but the same evil chance once more occurred, +and the ducks fell into the lake. This was too much for a hungry man to +endure; the day was piercingly cold, and the edge of the pool was +covered with ice; but my appetite was urgent, and I resolved at all +hazards to indulge it. Pulling off my clothes, therefore, I broke the +ice and plunged in; and though shivering like an aspen-leaf, I returned +safely to the camp with a couple of birds. Next day I adopted a similar +course with like success, but at the expense of what was to me a +serious misery. My stockings of warm wool were the only part of my +dress which I did not strip off, and to-day it unfortunately happened +that one was lost. Having secured my ducks, I attempted to land where +the bottom was muddy; but my leg stuck fast, and in pulling it out off +came the stocking; to recover it was beyond my power, for the mud +closed over it directly, and the consequence was that till I regained +the transport only one of my feet could be warm at a time. To those who +can boast of many pairs of fine cotton and woollen hose, this +misfortune of mine may appear light, but to me, who had only two +stockings on shore, the loss of one was very grievous; and I therefore +request that I may not be sneered at when I record it as one of the +disastrous consequences of this ill-fated expedition. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +THE LAKE. + + +As soon as the boats returned, regiment after regiment embarked and set +sail for the fleet; but the distance being considerable and the wind +foul, many days elapsed before the whole could be got off. Excepting in +one trifling instance, however, no accident occurred, and by the end of +the month we were all once more on board our former ships. But our +return was far from triumphant. We, who only seven weeks ago had set +out in the surest confidence of glory, and I may add of emolument, were +brought back dispirited and dejected. Our ranks were wofully thinned, +our chiefs slain, our clothing tattered and filthy, and even our +discipline in some degree injured. A gloomy silence reigned throughout +the armament, except when it was broken by the voice of lamentation +over fallen friends; and the interior of each ship presented a scene +well calculated to prove the short-sightedness of human hope and human +prudence. + +The accident to which I allude was the capture of a single boat by the +enemy. About thirty men of the 14th dragoons having crowded into an +unarmed barge, were proceeding slowly down the lake, when a boat +mounting a carronade in its bow suddenly darted from a creek and made +towards them. To escape was impossible, for their barge was too heavily +laden to move at a rate of even moderate rapidity; and to fight was +equally out of the question, because of the superiority which their +cannon gave to the Americans. The whole party was accordingly compelled +to surrender to six men and an officer; and having thrown their arms +into the lake, their boat was taken in tow and they were carried away +prisoners. + +This, however, was the only misfortune which occurred. Warned by the +fate of their comrades, the rest kept together in little squadrons, +each attended by one or more armed launches; and thus rowing steadily +on, they gained the shipping without so much as another attempt at +surprisal being made. + +On reaching the fleet, we found that a considerable reinforcement of +troops had arrived from England. It consisted of the 40th foot, a fine +regiment, containing nearly a thousand men, which, ignorant of the +fatal issue of our attack, had crossed the lakes only to be sent back +to the ships without so much as stepping on shore. The circumstance, +however, produced little satisfaction. We felt that the coming of +thrice the number could not recover what was lost or recall past +events; and therefore no rejoicing was heard, nor the slightest regard +paid to the occurrence. Nay, so great was the despondency which had +taken possession of men’s minds, that not even a rumour respecting the +next point of attack obtained circulation; whilst a sullen +carelessness, a sort of indifference as to what might happen, seemed to +have succeeded all our wonted curiosity and confidence of success in +every undertaking. + +THE LAKE—MOBILE. + +In this state we remained wind-bound till the 4th of February, when, at +length getting under weigh, the fleet ran down as far as Cat Island. +This is a spot of sandy soil at the mouth of the lake, remarkable for +nothing except a solitary Spanish family which possesses it. Completely +cut off from the rest of the world, an old man, his wife, two +daughters, and a son, dwell here in apparent happiness and contentment. +Being at least one hundred and twenty miles from the main, it is seldom +that their little kingdom is visited by strangers; and I believe that +till our arrival the daughters, though grown up to womanhood, had seen +few faces besides those of their parents and brother. Their cottage, +composed simply of a few boughs, thatched and in-woven with straw, is +beautifully situated within a short distance of the water. Two cows and +a few sheep grazed beside it; whilst a small tract of ground covered +with stubble, and a little garden well stocked with fruit-trees and +vegetables, at once gave proof of their industry, and showed the source +from whence they supplied themselves with bread. + +Having remained here till the 7th, we again took advantage of a fair +wind and stood to sea. As soon as we had cleared the lake, we directed +our course towards the east, steering, as it was rumoured, upon Mobile; +nor was it long before we came in sight of the bay which bears that +name. It is formed by a projecting headland called Point Bayo, and a +large island called Isle Dauphin. Upon the first is erected a small +fort, possessing the same title with the promontory which commands the +entrance; for though the island is, at least five miles from the main, +there is no water for floating a ship of any burthen except within a +few hundred yards of the latter. The island is, like Cat Island, +uninhabited, except by one family, and unprovided with any works of +defence. + +SIEGE. + +As the attack of Mobile was professedly our object, it was clear that +nothing could be done previous to the reduction of the fort. The ships +accordingly dropped anchor at the mouth of the bay, and immediate +preparations were made for the siege. But the fort was too +inconsiderable in point of size to require the employment of all our +forces in its investment. Whilst one brigade, therefore, was allotted +to this service, the rest proceeded to establish themselves on the +island, where, carrying tents and other conveniences on shore, the +first regular encampment which we had seen since our arrival in this +hemisphere was formed. + +The spot of ground, of which we had now taken possession, extended +twelve miles in length, and from one to three in width. Its soil is in +general dry and sandy, well covered with grass, and ornamented by +continued groves of pine, cedar, oak, and laurel. On one side only is +there a swamp, but not of sufficient size to contaminate the atmosphere +of the whole, which is considered so peculiarly healthy, that the place +is generally used as a depot for the sick in the American army. At +present, as I have said, it was tenanted by no more than a single +family, the master of which was a midshipman in the American navy, and +banished hither for some misdemeanor; but what was to us of much +greater importance, it was likewise stocked with cattle resembling in +appearance the black cattle of the Highlands of Scotland, and not +behind them in point of wildness. + +Whilst the remainder of the army spent their time here, the 4th, 21st, +and 44th, being landed above the fort, were busied in the siege. This +small work stands, as I have stated, at the extremity of a promontory. +Towards the sea its fortifications are respectable enough, but on the +land side it is little better than a blockhouse. The ramparts being +composed of sand, not more than three feet in thickness, are faced with +plank barely cannon-proof; whilst a sand-hill rising within pistol-shot +of the ditch, completely commands them. Within, again, the fort is as +much wanting in accommodation as it is in strength. There are no +bomb-proof barracks, nor any hole or arch under which men might find +protection from shells; indeed, so deficient is it in common +lodging-rooms, that a great part of the garrison slept in tents. To +reduce this place, therefore, occupied but a short time. The troops +having assembled on the 8th, drove the enemy within their lines on the +9th, and broke ground the same evening. On the 10th, four +eighteen-pounders with two howitzers were placed in battery upon the +top of the sand-hill; on the 11th, the fort surrendered; and on the +12th, the garrison, consisting of four hundred men of the second +American regiment, marched out with all the honours of war, and laid +down their arms upon the glacis. + +PEACE. + +With the reduction of this trifling work ended all hostilities in this +quarter of America, for the army had scarcely re-assembled when +intelligence arrived from England of peace. The news reached us on the +14th, and I shall not deny that it was received with general +satisfaction. Though war is the soldier’s harvest, yet it must be +confessed, that when carried on as it had of late been conducted, it is +a harvest of which men in time become weary; and many of us having been +absent for several years from our native shores, experienced absolute +delight at the prospect of returning once more to the bosom of our +families. The communication was therefore welcomed with unfeigned joy, +nor could any other topic of conversation gain attention throughout the +camp, except the anticipated re-embarkation. . + +But as the preliminaries only had been signed, and as Mr. Maddison’s +approval was required before we should be at liberty to depart, our +army still continued stationary upon the island. Of the President’s +conduct, however, no doubts were entertained; all thoughts of future +military operations were in consequence laid aside; and the sole aim of +every individual thenceforth was to make himself as comfortable as +circumstances would permit. To effect this end various expedients were +adopted. Among others a theatre was erected, in which such officers as +chose to exhibit performed for their own amusement and the amusement of +their friends. In shooting and fishing, likewise, much of our time was +spent; and thus, by adopting the usual expedients of idle men, we +contrived to pass some days in a state of tolerable comfort. + +Occupations such as these, however, soon grew insipid, and it was with +sincere rejoicing that on the 5th of March we were made acquainted with +Mr. Maddison’s agreement to the terms proposed. All was now hope and +exultation, an immediate departure was anticipated, and those were +pitied as unfortunate whose lot it was supposed, might detain them even +a day behind their fellows. But as yet no movement took place; our +provisions were not sufficient to authorize the undertaking so long a +voyage as we must undertake, did we attempt to run for the nearest +British settlement; we were therefore compelled to remain where we +were, till a frigate should return, which had been sent forward to +solicit supplies from the Governor of Cuba. + +During this interval, the same occupations were resorted to; and others +of a less agreeable nature undertaken. As summer came on, the island +sent forth multitudes of snakes from their lurking- places, which +infested the camp, making their way in some instances into our very +beds. This was bad enough, but it was not the only nuisance to which we +were subject. The alligators, which during the winter months lie in a +dormant state, now began to awaken, and prowling about the margin of +the pool, created no little alarm and agitation. Apparently confounded +at our invasion of their territories, these monsters at first confined +themselves to the marshy part of the island, but becoming by degrees +more familiar, they soon ventured to approach the very precincts of the +camp. One of them at length entered a tent; in which only a woman and +child chanced to be, and having stared round as if in amazement, walked +out again without offering to commit any violence. But the visit was of +too serious a nature to be overlooked. Parties were accordingly formed +for their destruction, and it was usual on the return of each from an +excursion, instead of asking how many birds, to demand how many snakes +and alligators they had shot. Of the former, indeed, great numbers were +killed,`and of the latter not a few, the largest of which measured +about nine feet from the snout to the tail. + +Another employment, also, deserves to be noted, because it is truly +characteristic of the boyish jollity of young soldiers. Wearied with a +state of idleness, the officers of the 7th, 43rd, and 14th dragoons +made an attack with fir-apples upon those of the 85th, 93rd, and 95th. +For the space of some days they pelted each other from morning till +night, laying ambuscades and exhibiting, on a small scale, all the +stratagems of war; whilst the whole army, not even excepting the +Generals themselves, stood by and spurred them on. + +But to continue a detail of such proceedings would only swell my +narrative, without amusing my reader; I shall therefore content myself +with observing, that things remained in this state till the 14th of +March, when the long-looked for frigate at length arrived, and on the +15th, the first division of the army embarking, set sail for England. +The wind, however, was foul, nor did the ships make any way till the +17th, when a fresh breeze springing up, we stood our course, and by ten +o’clock on the 21st could distinguish the high land of Cuba. But the +violence of the gale having driven us considerably to leeward, we were +forced to bear up, and beat along the coast, on which account it was +not till the 23rd that we came opposite to the port of Havannah. + +HAVANNAH. + +Than the approach to this city, and its first appearance from the +water, it is impossible to conceive anything more grand and imposing. A +little bay, extremely narrow at the entrance, forms the harbour. On +each side of it stand forts of prodigious strength, particularly those +on the left, where the ground is considerably elevated, whilst the city +itself, with its ramparts and towers, its numerous steeples, spires, +and public buildings, gives an assurance of wealth and magnificence +peculiarly striking. When we entered, every tower was surmounted by a +national banner half-mast high, a circumstance which did not at least +diminish the effect of a first view; and the guns from the forts +answering our salute, showed us how desperate must be the condition of +an enemy that should venture within their range. Why the flags should +thus indicate a general mourning, we were at a loss to guess, till the +pilot informed us that this was Holy week. Then, indeed, we remembered +that we had returned to a Roman Catholic country, and rejoiced at the +lucky accident which had brought us thither at such a season. + +As it was late before we anchored, I was prevented from landing that +night, but on the morrow I went on shore at an early hour, with the +intention of seeing as much as my time would allow. But in my proposed +visits to the different points worthy of attention I was interrupted. +It was Good-Friday, consequently all public places were shut, and +neither guides nor carriages could be procured. But if I was +disappointed in this, my disappointment was amply compensated by a view +of the religious ceremonies peculiar to that day. + +Walking into the largest church in the city, I beheld beside the altar +a figure of our Saviour as large as life nailed to a cross. Beside this +figure stood a number of monks, one of whom presented a rod with a +sponge affixed to its mouth, while a second thrust a spear into its +side, from which came out a liquor having the colour of blood and +water. This being carefully caught in a golden dish, the figure was +taken down from the cross, wrapped round with white linen clothes, and +laid upon a bier, when an imposing procession began in the following +order: First marched a military band playing slow and solemn music; +next came a guard of soldiers with heads bent down and arms reversed; +then followed about two hundred monks belonging to different orders, +arrayed in their dark robes, with hands and feet bare, and crucifixes +suspended from their necks. A short interval now succeeded, and another +party of monks dressed in white appeared, singing hymns in honour of +the Virgin. Next came a splendid couch surmounted by a canopy covered +with white silk and sparkling with gold and jewels, upon which sat a +waxen image of the Mother of God, clothed in gorgeous apparel. +Following this was another party of white-robed monks, chanting a +requiem for a departed soul, and then a second interval. At the +distance of perhaps twenty yards from these came two monks bearing two +large silver nails, then two others bearing a spear and a rod, and then +the body of our Saviour stretched at full length upon the bier. After +the bier came two monks bearing two other nails, and then another two +bearing a small cross and a ladder. Here, again, there was another +interval, which was succeeded by a third white-robed party likewise +chanting a requiem. Next to these came about twenty canons arrayed in +scarlet; then another couch covered with crimson velvet, which +supported a figure of Mary Magdalen, likewise in a sitting posture; +then a second body of canons, succeeded by about two hundred monks in +black; after these another guard of soldiers, and last of all a second +military band. + +In spite of prejudice I could not avoid being deeply struck by this +solemn procession. The airs performed by the bands were slow and +mournful, the voices of the singers were deep and musical, the dresses +were rich to a degree of splendour, and the whole was gone through with +much apparent devotion. No doubt, when regarded with the eye of +reflection, the whole may seem something worse than ludicrous, but it +is impossible to witness the scene and to reason on its propriety at +the same time. As long as the pageant is before your eyes you cannot +avoid being powerfully impressed by it; nor is it till after it has +disappeared that you are inclined to ask yourself why you gave way to +feelings of that nature. Yet among the natives I thought I could +observe a considerable degree of levity. It is true that as many as +were in the streets or at the windows dropped upon their knees while +the procession passed, but their careless looks and suppressed smiles +sufficiently proved that they knelt only because they were obliged to +kneel. + +Commencing at the door of the church where the representation of the +crucifixion had been exhibited, the funeral party (for it was neither +more nor less) proceeded through the principal streets in the town with +a slow and measured pace. As all except the soldiers walked two and +two, it covered, I should conceive, little less than a mile in extent, +and after winding from lane to lane and from square to square, directed +its steps towards a particular convent, where the waxen image was +solemnly deposited in a vault. It is said, but with what truth I cannot +pretend to determine, that a different image is made use of every year, +and that the vault is now so full of waxen corpses, that it will be +necessary before long to have some of them destroyed. + +Having now got rid of the most sacred part of their burthen, the monks, +bearing only the two couches, returned in procession by the same route +and in the same order as they had proceeded, only the bands struck up +lively airs and the singers chanted hymns of rejoicing and hallelujahs. +Instead of walking at a slow pace likewise, they stepped out almost in +a sort of dance, and reaching the door of the great church they there +separated, each party hastening to its own house to celebrate mass. + +Into one or two of the convent chapels I likewise entered, and was +present during the performance of their very striking service. I found +them ornamented in the most magnificent manner, the rafters of many +being gilded over and all the windows crowded with stained glass. Of +pictures, and what struck me as something better than mere daubs, there +were also great numbers. In a word, it seemed as if I had reached the +heart and capital of Roman Catholic splendour. Nothing that I had +beheld in the mother-country could at all compare with what was now +before me, and I returned in the evening to my ship, not indeed a +convert to the principles of that religion, but decidedly astonished +and confounded at the solemn magnificence of its ceremonies. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + + +At an early hour next morning I returned to the city, and found that +the face of affairs had undergone a complete revolution. No more +melancholy countenances, no closed shops and vacant streets were now to +be seen; all was bustle and rejoicing, bells ringing, carriages +rattling along, flags flying, and guns firing. The solemnity of +Good-Friday ends, it appeared, at ten o’clock on Saturday morning, and +from that time the merriments of Easter have their commencement. + +The whole of this day I spent in strolling over the different walks and +points of view from whence the town and surrounding country may be seen +to most advantage; and I certainly must pronounce it to be by far the +most magnificent colonial capital which I have visited. The streets are +in general wide, clean, and airy; the houses, except in the suburbs, +are composed entirely of stone, and being occasionally intermingled +with convents, churches, and other public buildings, produce a very +striking and handsome effect. Though surrounded by a rampart, Havannah +has little of the confined and straitened appearance by which fortified +towns are generally disfigured. The works being of great extent, have +left within their circumference abundant room for the display of +elegance and neatness in its construction, an advantage which has not +been neglected; whilst from their situation they command as glorious a +prospect as can well be imagined. + +When you ascend a bastion which overhangs the harbour, the city, with +all its towers and spires, lies immediately and distinctly beneath your +gaze. Beyond it, again, you perceive a winding of the bay, which washes +three sides of the promontory where the city stands; numerous fields of +sugar-cane and Indian corn succeed, intersected by groves of orange and +other fruit trees, which extend for some miles in a sort of inclined +plane, and are at length bounded by lofty and rugged mountains. On your +left, again, is the creek or entrance to the bay, separating you from +the Moro, a line of castles remarkable for their strength and extent. +Behind sweep the waters of the Gulf of Mexico; and on the right is +another view much resembling that which lies before you, only that it +is more narrowed; the high ground bearing in this direction closer upon +the city. On the whole I do not remember to have been more forcibly +struck by any scenery than that which I beheld from this bastion; so +well were town and country, castles and convents, land and water, hill +and valley combined. + +Having spent some hours in wandering through the city, I endeavoured to +make my way into the forts, and to examine the state of the works. But +in both of these attempts I was interrupted. Without an order from the +Governor, I was informed, that none, even of the natives, are permitted +to enter the Moro, and all applications on the part of foreigners are +uniformly refused. There was a degree of jealousy in this, as needless +as it was illiberal; but indeed the whole conduct of the Spanish +authorities gave proof of their reluctance to admit their old allies, +even to the common rites of hospitality. From the moment we entered the +harbour the militia of the island were called out, many of the guns +which commanded our shipping were shotted, and artillerymen with +lighted fuzes stood constantly beside them. An order was likewise +issued, prohibiting more than two persons to land at the same time from +each vessel, and many other precautions were taken, little +complimentary to the good faith of those to whom Spain must feel that +she owes her very existence. In spite of these drawbacks, however, I +contrived to spend a week in this city with much satisfaction. The +opera and theatre opening on Easter Sunday, and continuing open during +the remainder of our stay, furnished sufficient amusement for the +evenings, whilst in walking or riding about, in examining the different +churches and chapels, and in chatting with nuns through the grate, or +monks within their cells, my mornings passed away more quickly than I +desired. + +At length our victualling and watering being complete, on the 9th of +April we bade adieu to the shores of Cuba, and running along with the +Gulf-stream, took our course towards Bermuda. The wind favoured us +greatly, and on the 17th we again reached these islands; where we +delayed till the 23rd, when, once more setting sail, we steered +directly for England. During the remainder of the voyage nothing of +importance occurred till the 7th of May, when, reaching in towards the +shores of Brest, we were astonished by beholding the tri-coloured flag +floating from the citadel. Of the mighty events which had taken place +in Europe, we were as yet in perfect ignorance. Though surprised, +therefore, at the first view of that beacon of war, we naturally +concluded it to be no more than a signal, and passed on without +inquiry. As we ascended the channel, however, we were hailed by a +schooner, which professed to communicate some news concerning +Buonaparte; but the wind being high, we could not distinctly tell what +was said; nor was it till the 9th, when we had anchored off Spithead, +that the reappearance of that wonderful man was made known. + +The effect of this intelligence it would be difficult to describe. At +first it was received with acclamations, but by and bye those who had +dreamed of home began to perceive in it the destruction of their +visions. Yet we considered that we were soldiers, and certainly no +regret was experienced when we were ordered to re-embark, and sail for +the Downs. + +REMARKS. + +Having thus brought my narrative to a conclusion, I cannot lay aside my +pen without offering a few remarks upon the events of this busy year, +and the nature of an American war in general. In doing so, I shall +begin with the unfortunate attack upon New Orleans, and endeavour, in +as few words as possible, to assign the true causes of its failure. + +From the account which I have given of this affair, it will appear +that, from its very commencement, it was replete with error, and gave +promise of no better result than actually occurred. I do not here +allude to the spot fixed upon for landing, because that was as +appropriate as could be chosen. Neither do I refer to the groundless +rumours brought in by deserters; for to such all assailants are liable; +but the error lay in the steps subsequently taken; in the unhappy +advance of the first division from a place of concealment into the open +country, without pushing forward to the extent required. The fact is, +that having reached the main land in safety, one out of two plans might +have been selected by General Keane; which, in all probability, would +have been equally attended with success. Either he might have remained +in the morass till the whole army was assembled, or, if this were +deemed too dangerous, he ought to have advanced upon the city with the +first division alone. If it be objected that a force of 1600 men was +incompetent for an undertaking so important as the latter, I reply that +there could be no more hazard in it than in the course actually +pursued. New Orleans is not a regular fortification requiring a large +army and a powerful battering train for its reduction. In obtaining +possession of such a place there would have been no difficulty, because +it has since been ascertained that the American troops were, at the +time of our landing, some miles above the city; and surely it would not +have been more difficult to repulse an attack within a town than in the +open country. But neither of these courses was adopted. The advance was +drawn from concealment, and halted just where it became most exposed, +as if it had been our design to warn the American General of his +danger; the consequence of which was a well-directed attack upon our +bivouac, and an immediate commencement of those works which afterwards +resisted and repelled all our efforts. + +The second error evident in this business was the selection of the +schooner instead of the ship for destruction. Had the latter, which lay +farther up the stream been destroyed, the former never could have +passed our battery, nor been of further annoyance to us; whereas, the +schooner being burnt, the ship was only removed out of the reach of +danger, and posted where she could be infinitely more advantageous to +her friends and detrimental to her enemies. This in itself was a grave +error, which beyond all doubt contributed, in some degree, to our +repulse on the 29th of December. + +The third error, and one which continued to exert its influence +throughout the whole campaign, was the delay in bringing on a general +action. Why our troops fell back on the 29th I confess is to me a +mystery. It was not to be supposed that an officer who had shown so +much judgment as the American General, Jackson, in his first endeavours +to check our advance, would lose the advantage which the nature of his +position afforded. That he would fortify the neck of land, indeed, was +exactly what might have been expected: and, therefore, every hour +during which an attack was deferred, contributed so much to his +strength and to our weakness. It is true that we should have suffered, +and perhaps suffered severely; but our chances of suffering were +certainly not diminished by delay. We ought, therefore, instead of +falling back, to have pursued our operations with vigour on that day; +because the American lines, being then incomplete, would have assisted +rather than retarded our progress. + +It has been said, and perhaps truly, that the movement on the 29th was +never intended for more than a reconnoissance: and that the scheme +subsequently adopted, of overpowering the enemy’s fire by a superior +artillery brought from the fleet, was a wise one. All this may be true; +but as we did not succeed in silencing the enemy’s batteries, who, on +the contrary, put ours to silence, either the project was faulty in its +design, or some grievous error was committed in its execution. As far +as our position was affected by it, the results were these:—Three days +more were lost in making preparations, which ended in nothing; while, +by the enemy, these same days were judiciously and indefatigably +employed to improve their deficiency and recruit their force. + +At last came the idea of digging a canal from the lakes to the river, +by means of which a portion of our army might be thrown to the other +side; a project which is said to have been suggested by Sir Alexander +Cochrane; but which, wheresoever originating, was at once bold and +judicious. The canal was accordingly formed; not, however, with +sufficient attention to the rules of art in like cases, as was shown by +the falling in of the banks, and the consequent impossibility of +bringing up boats to transport the whole detachment. Still there it +was, and 350 men, instead of 1400, made good their landing on the right +bank of the river. It is deeply to be regretted that Sir Edward +Pakenham did not delay his own advance with the main body till this +fact had been ascertained. His plan of battle was to carry the enemy’s +works on the right bank, to turn their own guns from that flank against +themselves, and to alarm them for their communications, ere he should +attack the main position on the left. Nor can it be doubted, that had +the detached corps arrived at the hour first named, an easy triumph +would have been achieved. But Pakenham was too fiery to restrain his +troops, after they had assumed their ground on his own side. Instead, +therefore, of causing the columns to fall back out of gun-shot, and +wait quietly till the battle began on the left, he hurried them into +action as soon as the day dawned; and they became exposed to the whole +of that volume of fire which it was one main object of his movement +across the Mississippi to destroy. Moreover, from all the moral effects +of a partial defeat the enemy were saved; and I need not say how +serious such things are to irregular and undisciplined bodies. I do not +mean to assert that, in spite of all this, the American lines ought not +to have been carried. On the contrary, had every officer and man done +his duty, the victory would have been complete, though purchased, +beyond a doubt, at a severe cost. Yet it is absurd to deny that, +speaking of the movement as an operation of war, the attack on the +right ought to have been withheld till that on the left had either +failed or succeeded. So far, therefore, the General is liable to +censure; and chivalrous and high-minded as he was, it is just that he +should receive it. But there were other causes of defeat than this; +among which, the gross misconduct of one individual deserves to be +especially noticed. + +To Lieutenant-Colonel Mullens, with the 44th regiment, of which he was +in command, was intrusted the arduous and therefore honourable duty of +carrying the fascines and ladders. The orders were given in good time +over night; and Colonel Mullens received them as if they had conveyed a +sentence of death. He stated, in the hearing of the private soldiers, +that his corps was devoted to destruction; and conducted himself, in +every respect, like a condemned criminal on the night previous to his +execution. When the troops got under arms, instead of bringing his +battalion to the redoubt, where he had been instructed to find the +ladders, he marched directly past it, and led them into the field +without a single ladder or fascine. When the day dawned, and he was +sent back for these instruments, he headed his corps in its retrograde +movement, but left it to return as it could to the front; and when +sought for to guide the attack, he was nowhere to be found. That a +regiment thus abused and deserted by its commanding officer should fall +into confusion, cannot occasion any surprise; it would have been +surprising indeed, had a different result ensued. But the melancholy +effect of such confusion was, that other regiments were likewise +broken; and before order could be restored, all the Generals were borne +dead or wounded from the field. A large share, therefore, of the blame +attachable to this failure must rest where fidelity of narration has +obliged me to place it. + +Again, the recall of the victorious detachment from the left to the +right bank of the Mississippi, and the consequent abandonment of that +complete command of the river which this partial success had obtained, +was a military error of the gravest kind. Great as our numerical loss +had been in the principal action of the 8th, the advantages of position +were at the close of the day so decidedly with us, that for General +Jackson to maintain himself any longer in front of New Orleans was +physically impossible. His own dispatch, indeed, addressed to the +Secretary-at-War, shows that he felt the truth so forcibly, that he had +actually issued orders for a retreat, when the removal of the English +from his menaced flank was reported to him; and his battalions, which +had begun to get under arms, were directed to resume their places. It +is, however, but just to state, that such was the miserable condition +of our commissariat, that the fleet contained not provisions enough to +feed the people on half rations during a quick passage to Cuba; and +General Lambert did not feel that he would be justified in risking the +total loss of his army, which, had the campaign been prolonged another +fortnight, must under such circumstances have taken place. That he +erred in this supposition is certain; but his was probably an error +into which most men similarly circumstanced would have fallen. + +But the primary cause of all our disasters may be traced to a source +even more distant than any yet mentioned; I mean, to the disclosure of +our designs to the enemy. How this occurred I shall not take it upon me +to declare, though several rumours bearing at least the guise of +probability have been circulated. The attack upon New Orleans was +professedly a secret expedition; so secret, indeed, that it was not +communicated to the inferior officers and soldiers in the armament till +immediately previous to our quitting Jamaica. To the Americans, +however, it appears to have been known long before; and hence it was +that, instead of taking them unawares, we found them fully prepared for +our reception. Nor is this all. It appears difficult to account for the +degree of negligence which affected the naval heads of the present +expedition, as far as the providing a competent number of boats and +small craft to transport the troops is concerned. Throughout the whole +fleet, barges enough to carry one-half of the army could not be found; +whereas there ought to have been a sufficient quantity to contain not +only the entire force, but all its stores and ammunition. To this +neglect, indeed, more perhaps than to any other circumstances, is the +failure of the attempt to be attributed; since not a doubt can exist +that, if General Keane had been enabled to bring the whole of his army +to land on the morning of the 23rd, he would have reached New Orleans, +without firing a shot, before nightfall. But the opportunity is past, +it cannot be recalled, and therefore to point out errors on the part of +my countrymen can serve no good end. That the failure is to be lamented +no one will deny, since the conquest of New Orleans would have proved +beyond all comparison the most valuable acquisition that could be made +to the British dominions throughout the whole western hemisphere. In +possession of that post we should have kept the entire southern trade +of the United States in check, and furnished means of commerce to our +own merchants of incalculable value. + +The fact, however, is, that when we look back upon the whole series of +events produced by the late American war, we shall find little that is +likely to flatter our vanity or increase our self-importance. Except a +few successes in Canada at its very commencement, and the brilliant +inroad upon Washington, it will be found that our arms have been +constantly baffled or repulsed on shore; whilst at sea, with the +exception of the capture of the Chesapeake and one or two other affairs +towards its conclusion, we have been equally unsuccessful. From what +cause does this proceed? Not from any inferiority in courage or +discipline, because in these particulars British soldiers and sailors +will yield to none in the world. There must, then, be some other cause +for these misfortunes, and the cause is surely one which has +continually baffled all our plans of American warfare. + +We have long been habituated to despise the Americans as an enemy +unworthy of serious regard. To this alone it is to be attributed that +frigates half manned were sent out to cope with ships capable of +containing them within their hulls; and to this also the trifling +handfuls of troops dispatched to conduct the war by land. Instead of +fifteen hundred, had ten thousand men sailed from the Garonne under +General Ross, how differently might he have acted! There would have +been then no necessity for a reembarkation after the capture of +Washington, and consequently no time given for the defence of +Baltimore; but, marching across the country, he might have done to the +one city what he did to the other. And it is thus only that a war with +America can be successfully carried on. To penetrate up the country +amidst pathless forests and boundless deserts, and to aim at permanent +conquest, is out of the question. America must be assaulted only on her +coasts. Her harbours destroyed, her shipping burned, and her seaport +towns laid waste, are the only evils which she has reason to dread; and +were a sufficient force embarked with these orders, no American war +would be of long continuance. + +A melancholy experience has now taught us that such a war must not be +entered into, unless it be conducted with spirit; and there is no +conducting it with spirit, except with a sufficient numerical force. To +the plan proposed of making desert the whole line of coast, it may be +objected, that by so doing we should distress individuals, and not the +Government. But they who offer this objection, forget the nature both +of the people whose cause they plead, and of the Government under which +they live. In a democratical Government, the voice of the people must +at all times prevail. The members of the House of Representatives are +the very persons who, from such proceedings, would suffer most +severely, and we all know how far private suffering goes to influence a +man’s public opinions. Besides, the principle upon which the advocates +for the sacredness of private property proceed, is erroneous. Every one +will allow that, in absolute monarchies, where war is more properly the +pastime of kings than the desire of subjects, non-combatants ought to +be dealt with as humanely as possible. Not so, how ever, in States +governed by popular assemblies. By compelling the constituents to +experience the real hardships and miseries of warfare, you will compel +the representatives to a vote of peace; and surely that line of conduct +is, upon the whole, most humane, which puts the speediest period to the +cruelties of war. There are few men who would not rather endure a +raging fever for three days, than a slow and lingering disease for +three months. So it is with a democracy at war. Burn their houses, +plunder their property, block up their harbours, and destroy their +shipping in a few places; and before you have time to proceed to the +rest, you will be stopped by entreaties for peace. Whereas, if you do +no mischief that can be avoided, if you only fight their fleets and +armies wherever you meet them, and suffer the inhabitants to live in +undisturbed tranquillity, they will continue their hostilities till +they have worn out the means of one party, and greatly weakened those +of both. + +Should another war break out between Great Britain and America, this is +the course to be adopted by the former. Besides which, I humbly +conceive that a second attempt might be hazarded upon New Orleans, +because the importance of the conquest would authorise almost any +sacrifice for its attainment; and once gained, it could easily be +defended. The neck of land, upon which it is built, extends in the same +form above as below the town; and the same advantages which it holds +out to its present defenders would, of course, be afforded to us. A +chain of works thrown across from the river to the marsh would render +it inaccessible from above; whilst by covering the lakes and the +Mississippi with cruisers, all attacks from below would be sufficiently +guarded against. + +THE END. + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Campaigns of the British Army at Washington and New Orleans, 1814-1815, by G. R. Gleig + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAMPAIGNS OF THE BRITISH ARMY AT WASHINGTON AND NEW ORLEANS *** + +***** This file should be named 18479-0.txt or 18479-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/4/7/18479/ + +Produced by Geoffrey Cowling + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part +of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +concept and trademark. 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R. Gleig + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + +Title: The Campaigns of the British Army at Washington and New Orleans, 1814-1815 + +Author: G. R. Gleig + +Release Date: June 1, 2006 [EBook #18479] +[Most recently updated: February 16, 2020] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAMPAIGNS OF THE BRITISH ARMY AT WASHINGTON AND NEW ORLEANS *** + + + + +Produced by Geoffrey Cowling + + + + + + +</pre> + +<h1>The Campaigns of the British Army at Washington and New Orleans,<br/>1814-1815</h1> + +<h2>by Rev. G. R. Gleig, M.A.,</h2> + +<p class="center"> +Chaplain-General to the forces;<br/> +Author of <i>The Subaltern</i>; <i>Story of the Battle of Waterloo</i>;<br/> +<i>Life of Lord Clive</i>; <i>Life of Sir Thomas Munro</i>, etc.<br/> +</p> + +<p class="center"> +NEW EDITION<br/> +1879 +</p> + +<hr /> + +<p class="center"> +ADVERTISEMENT. +</p> + +<p> +The following Narrative contains, it is believed, the only connected and +authentic account, which has yet been given, of the expedition directed against +Washington and New Orleans, towards the close of the late American war. It has +been compiled, not from memory alone, but from a journal kept by the author +whilst engaged in the enterprise; and as the adventures of each were faithfully +noted down as they occurred, and such remarks made upon passing events as +suggested themselves to his mind at the moment, the public may rely with +confidence upon general correctness of the details. The issues of the +expedition were not, indeed, of the most gratifying nature, but it is hoped +that a plain relation of the proceedings of those to whom it was intrusted, +will not, on that account, prove uninteresting; whilst nothing can be more +evident than that the portion of our history which it embraces ought not to be +overlooked because it is little conducive to the encouragement of national +vanity. It was chiefly, indeed, upon this account, as well as with a view to +redeem from an oblivion which they hardly merit, the actions and sufferings of +a few brave men, that the Narrative now submitted to the public was written. +</p> + +<hr /> + +<h2>Contents</h2> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap01">CHAPTER I.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Cessation of Hostilities—Expected Embarkation for +America—Encampment near Passages—March towards Bordeaux-Anglet +<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap02">CHAPTER II.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Bayonne—St. Etienne—March through Bayonne, to Ondres<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap03">CHAPTER III.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Les Landes—March to Bordeaux—Bordeaux—Macan—La +Moe—At Sea<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap04">CHAPTER IV.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +At Sea—St. Michael’s—Villa Franca<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap05">CHAPTER V.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +St Michael’s—Ponto del Gada—At Sea<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap06">CHAPTER VI.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Bermuda<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap07">CHAPTER VII.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +America—The Chesapeake—The Partuxent—St. Benedicts<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap08">CHAPTER VIII.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Nottingham—Marlborough<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap09">CHAPTER IX.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +March to Washington—Bladensburg<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap10">CHAPTER X.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Washington<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap11">CHAPTER XI.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Washington—Bladensburg—Marlborough—St Benedicts<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap12">CHAPTER XII.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Alexandria—The Patuxent—The Patapsco<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap13">CHAPTER XIII.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +March—Attack—Halt<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap14">CHAPTER XIV.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +March—Halt—Search—March—Rally—Halt<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap15">CHAPTER XV.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +The Patuxent—The Potomac—The Chesapeake—At Sea—The West +Indies<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap16">CHAPTER XVI.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +The West Indies—Port Royal—Kingston—Jamaica—The Blue +Mountains<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap17">CHAPTER XVII.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +The Blue Mountains—Port Royal—Negril Bay<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap18">CHAPTER XVIII.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +At Sea—New Orleans—Lake Borgne—Pine Island<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap19">CHAPTER XIX.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Pine Island—The Lake—Landing—March—Halt<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap20">CHAPTER XX.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Halt—Attack—Field of Battle—Hospital<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap21">CHAPTER XXI.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Advance—Attack—March—Attack—Retreat—Preparations +<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap22">CHAPTER XXII.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Attack—Retreat—Pause—Attack—Re-embarkation<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap23">CHAPTER XXIII.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +The Camp—Preparations for Retreat—Retreat—Halt<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap24">CHAPTER XXIV.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +The Lake—Mobile—Siege—Peace—Havannah<br/><br/> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<a href="#chap25">CHAPTER XXV.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Havannah—Remarks +</p> + +<hr /> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2>THE BRITISH ARMY<br/> +AT<br/> +WASHINGTON AND NEW ORLEANS. +</h2> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap01"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<p> +A revolution must occur in the condition and sentiments of mankind more decided +than we have any reason to expect that the lapse of ages will produce, before +the mighty events which distinguished the spring of 1814 shall be spoken of in +other terms than those of unqualified admiration. It was then that Europe, +which during so many years had groaned beneath the miseries of war, found +herself at once, and to her remotest recesses, blessed with the prospect of a +sure and permanent peace. Princes, who had dwelt in exile till the very hope of +restoration to power began to depart from them, beheld themselves unexpectedly +replaced on the thrones of their ancestors; dynasties, which the will of one +man had erected, disappeared with the same abruptness with which they had +arisen; and the influence of changes which a quarter of a century of rapine and +conquest had produced in the arrangements of general society, ceased, as if by +magic, to be felt, or at least to be acknowledged. It seemed, indeed, as if all +which had been passing during the last twenty or thirty years, had passed not +in reality, but in a dream; so perfectly unlooked for were the issues of a +struggle, to which, whatever light we may regard it, the history of the whole +world presents no parallel. +</p> + +<p> +At the period above alluded to, it was the writer’s fortune to form one +of a body of persons in whom the unexpected cessation of hostilities may be +supposed to have excited sensations more powerful and more mixed than those to +which the common occurrences of life are accustomed to give birth. He was then +attached to that portion of the Peninsular army to which the siege of Bayonne +had been intrusted; and on the 28th of April beheld, in common with his +comrades, the tri-coloured flag, which, for upwards of two months, had waved +defiance from the battlements, give place to the ancient drapeau blanc of the +Bourbons. That such a spectacle could be regarded by any British soldier +without stirring up in him strong feelings of national pride and exultation, is +not to be imagined. I believe, indeed, that there was not a man in our ranks, +however humble his station, to whose bosom these feelings were a stranger. But +the excitation of the moment having passed away, other and no less powerful +feelings succeeded; and they were painful, or the reverse, according as they +ran in one or other of the channels into which the situations and prospects of +individuals not unnaturally guided them. By such as had been long absent from +their homes, the idea of enjoying once more the society of friends and +relatives, was hailed with a degree of delight too engrossing to afford room +for the occurrence of any other anticipations; to those who had either no homes +to look to, or had quitted them only a short time ago, the thoughts of +revisiting England came mixed with other thoughts, little gratifying, because +at variance with all their dreams of advancement and renown. For my own part I +candidly confess, that though I had just cause to look forward to a return to +the bosom of my family with as much satisfaction as most men, the restoration +of peace excited in me sensations of a very equivocal nature. At the age of +eighteen, and still enthusiastically attached to my profession, neither the +prospect of a reduction to half-pay, nor the expectation of a long continuance +in a subaltern situation, were to me productive of any pleasurable emotions; +and hence, though I entered heartily into all the arrangements by which those +about me strove to evince their gratification at the glorious termination of +the war, it must be acknowledged that I did so, without experiencing much of +the satisfaction with the semblance of which my outward behaviour might be +marked. +</p> + +<h3>EXPECTED EMBARKATION FOR AMERICA.</h3> + +<p> +Such being my own feelings, and the feelings of the great majority of those +immediately around me, it was but natural that we should turn our views to the +only remaining quarter of the globe in which the flame of war still continued +to burn. Though at peace with France, England, we remembered; was not yet at +peace with the United States; and reasoning, not as statesmen but as soldiers, +we concluded that she was not now likely to make peace with that nation till +she should be able to do so upon her own terms. Having such an army on foot, +what line of policy could appear so natural or so judicious as that she should +employ, if not the whole, at all events a large proportion of it, in chastising +an enemy, than whom none had ever proved more vindictive or more ungenerous? +Our view of the matter accordingly was, that some fifteen or twenty thousand +men would be forthwith embarked on board of ship and transported to the other +side of the Atlantic; that the war would there be carried on with a vigour +conformable to the dignity and resources of the country which waged it; and +that no mention of peace would be made till our general should be in a +situation to dictate its conditions in the enemy’s capital. +</p> + +<p> +Whether any design of the kind was ever seriously entertained, or whether men +merely asserted as a truth what they earnestly desired to be such, I know not; +but the white flag had hardly been hoisted on the citadel of Bayonne, when a +rumour became prevalent that an extensive encampment of troops, destined for +the American war, was actually forming in the vicinity of Bordeaux. A variety +of causes led me to anticipate that the corps to which I was attached would +certainly be employed upon that service. In the progress of the war which had +been just brought to a conclusion, we had not suffered so severely as many +other corps; and though not excelling in numbers, it is but justice to affirm +that a more effective or better organized battalion could not be found in the +whole army. We were all, moreover, from our commanding officer down to the +youngest ensign, anxious to gather a few more laurels, even in America; and we +had good reason to believe that those in power were not indisposed to gratify +our inclinations. Under these circumstances we clung with fondness to the hope +that our martial career had not yet come to a close; and employed the space +which intervened between the eventful 28th of April and the 8th of the +following month, chiefly in forming guesses as to the point of attack towards +which it was likely that we should be turned. +</p> + +<h3>ENCAMPMENT NEAR PASSAGES.</h3> + +<p> +Though there was peace between the French and British nations, the form of +hostilities was so far kept up between the garrison of Bayonne and the army +encamped around it, that it was only by an especial treaty that the former were +allowed to send out parties for the purpose of collecting forage and provisions +from the adjacent country. The foraging parties, however, being permitted to +proceed in any direction most convenient to themselves, the supplies of corn +and grass, which had heretofore proved barely sufficient for our own horses and +cattle, soon began to fail, and it was found necessary to move more than one +brigade to a distance from the city. Among others, the brigade of which my +regiment formed a part, received orders on the 7th of May to fall back on the +road towards Passages. These orders we obeyed on the following morning; and +after an agreeable march of fifteen or sixteen miles, pitched our tents in a +thick wood, about half-way between the village of Bedart and the town of St. +Jean de Luz. In this position we remained for nearly a week, our expectations +of employment on the other side of the Atlantic becoming daily less and less +sanguine, till at length all doubts on the subject were put an end to by the +sudden arrival of a dispatch, which commanded us to set out with as little +delay as possible towards Bordeaux. +</p> + +<p> +It was on the evening of the 14th that the route was received, and on the +following morning, at daybreak, we commenced our march. The country through +which we moved had nothing in it, unconnected with past events, calculated in +any extraordinary degree to attract attention. Behind us, indeed, rose the +Pyrenees in all their grandeur, forming, on that side, a noble boundary to the +prospect; and on our left was the sea, a boundary different it is true in kind, +though certainly not less magnificent. But, excepting at these two extremities, +there was nothing in the landscape on which the eye loved particularly to rest, +because the country, though pretty enough, has none of that exquisite richness +and luxuriance which we had been led to expect as characteristic of the South +of France. The houses, too, being all in a ruinous and dilapidated condition, +reminded us more forcibly of the scenes of violence and outrage which had been +lately acted among them, than of those ideas of rural contentment and innocence +which various tales and melodramas had taught us to associate in our own minds +with thoughts of the land of the vine. +</p> + +<h3>MARCH TOWARDS BORDEAUX</h3> + +<p> +Regarded, however, in connexion with past events, the scene was indeed most +interesting; though to a stranger fresh from England—a man, we will +suppose, of retired and peaceful habits, I can readily imagine that it would +have been productive of much pain; for on each side of the road, in whatever +direction we cast our eyes, and as far as the powers of vision extended, we +beheld cottages unroofed and in ruins, chateaux stripped of their doors and +windows, gardens laid waste, the walls demolished, and the fruit-trees cut +down; whole plantations levelled, and vineyards trodden under foot. Here and +there, likewise, a redoubt or breastwork presented itself; whilst caps, broken +firelocks, pieces of clothing, and accoutrements scattered about in profusion, +marked the spots where the strife had been most determined, and where many a +fine fellow had met his fate. Our journey lay over a field of battle, through +the entire extent of which the houses were not only thoroughly gutted (to use a +vulgar but most expressive phrase), but for the most part were riddled with +cannon-shot. Round some of the largest, indeed, there was not a wall nor a tree +which did not present evident proofs of its having been converted into a +temporary place of defence, whilst the deep ruts in what had once been lawns +and flower-gardens, showed that all their beauty had not protected them from +being destroyed by the rude passage of heavy artillery. +</p> + +<p> +Immediately beyond the village of Bedart such spectacles were particularly +frequent. It was here, it may be remembered, that in the preceding month of +December there had been fighting for four successive days; and the number of +little hillocks now within our view; from under most of which legs and arms +were beginning to show themselves, as well as the other objects which I have +attempted to describe, sufficiently attested the obstinacy with which that +fighting had been maintained. +</p> + +<p> +In the bosom of a man of peace it is very conceivable that all this would have +excited feelings exceedingly painful; in ours, such feelings were overborne by +others of a very different nature. If we gazed with peculiar interest upon one +hovel more than upon another, it was because some of us had there maintained +ourselves; if we endeavoured to count the number of shot-holes in any wall, or +the breaks in any hedge, it was because we had stood behind it when “the +iron hail” fell thick and fast around us. Our thoughts, in short, had +more of exultation in them than of sorrow; for though now and then, when the +name of a fallen comrade was mentioned, it was accompanied with a “poor +fellow” the conversation soon returned again to the exploits and +hair-breadth escapes of the survivors. On the whole, therefore, our march was +one of deep interest and high excitement, feelings which did not entirely +evaporate when we halted, about two hours after noon, at the village of Anglet. +</p> + +<h3>MARCH TOWARDS BORDEAUX—ANGLET</h3> + +<p> +We found this village in the condition in which it was to be expected that a +place of so much importance during the progress of the late siege would be +found, in other words, completely metamorphosed into a chain of petty posts. +Being distant from the outworks of Bayonne not more than a mile and a half, and +standing upon the great road by which all the supplies for the left of the +British army were brought up, no means, as may be supposed, had been neglected, +which art or nature could supply, towards rendering it as secure against a +sudden excursion of the garrison as might be. About one hundred yards in front +of it felled trees were laid across the road, with their branches turned +towards the town, forming what soldiers, in the language of their profession, +term an abattis. Forty or fifty yards in rear of this a ditch was dug, and a +breastwork thrown up, from behind which a party might do great execution upon +any body of men struggling to force their way over that impediment. On each +side of the highway again, where the ground rises into little eminences, +redoubts and batteries were erected, so as to command the whole with a heavy +flanking fire; while every house and hovel lying at all within the line of +expected operations was loop-holed, and otherwise put in a posture of defence. +But upon the fortification of the church a more than ordinary degree of care +seemed to have been bestowed. As it stood upon a little eminence in the middle +of the hamlet, it was no hard matter to convert it into a tolerably regular +fortress, which might serve the double purpose of a magazine for warlike stores +and a post of defence against the enemy. With this view the churchyard was +surrounded by a row of stout palings, called in military phraseology stockades, +from certain openings in which the muzzles of half a dozen pieces of light +artillery protruded. The walls of the edifice itself were, moreover, +strengthened by an embankment of earth to the height of perhaps four or five +feet from the ground, above which narrow openings were made, in order to give +to its garrison an opportunity of levelling their muskets; while on the top of +the tower a small howitzer was mounted, from which either shot or shell could +be thrown with effect into any of the lanes or passes near. It is probably +needless to add that the interior arrangements of this house of God had +undergone a change as striking as that which affected its exterior. Barrels of +gunpowder, with piles of balls of all sizes and dimensions, now occupied the +spaces where worshippers had often crowded; and the very altar was heaped up +with spunges, wadding, and other implements necessary in case of an attack. +</p> + +<p> +I have been thus minute in my description of Anglet, because what has been said +of it will apply more or less exactly to every village, hamlet, or cluster of +cottages, within the compass of what were called the lines. It is true that +neither here nor elsewhere, excepting at one particular point, and that on the +opposite side of the river, were any serious intentions entertained of +broaching or storming the place; and that the sole object of these preparations +was to keep the enemy within his works, and to cut him off from all +communication with the surrounding country. But to effect even this end, the +utmost vigilance and precaution were necessary, not only because the number of +troops employed on the service was hardly adequate to discharge it, but because +the garrison hemmed in was well known to be at once numerous and enterprising. +The reader may accordingly judge what appearance a country presented which, to +the extent of fifteen or twenty miles round, was thus treated; where every +house was fortified, every road blocked up, every eminence mined with +fieldworks, and every place swarming with armed men. Nor was its aspect less +striking by night than by day. Gaze where he might, the eye of the spectator +then rested upon some portion of one huge circle of fires, by the glare of +which the white tents or rudely constructed huts of the besiegers were from +time to time made visible. +</p> + +<p> +While things continued thus, the condition of the peaceful inhabitant of this +district could hardly fail to be one of extreme discomfort. Of these the +greater number had indeed fled on the advance of the British army, leaving +their houses and effects a prey to the conquerors; but there were some who, +having probably no place of refuge to retire to, remained in their homes, and +threw themselves upon our mercy for protection. It is not requisite that I +should now inform the reader of the strict discipline which Lord Wellington +preserved in every division of his army; his first step, on entering France, +had been to inform the people that against them no violence was intended; and +the assurance thus given, was in no instance, at least wantonly, violated. But, +however orderly the conduct of an invading force may be, their very presence +must occasion a thousand inconveniences to those upon whom they are quartered; +not the least distressing of which is, perhaps, the feeling of degradation +which the consciousness of being in the power of armed foreigners can hardly +fail to produce. Then there is the total destruction of all domestic comfort, +which the occupation of a man’s house by large bodies of soldiers +produces; the liability to which the females, in particular, are exposed to +insult from the common troopers; and the dread of vengeance from any delinquent +on whom their complaints may have brought down chastisement, all these things +must and do create a degree of misery, of which the inhabitants of Great +Britain may thank God that they know nothing except by name. In the vicinity of +Bayonne, moreover, the country people lived in daily and nightly expectation of +finding themselves involved in all the horrors and dangers of a battle. Sorties +were continually looked for, and however these might terminate, the +non-combatants felt that they must be equally the sufferers. Nay, it was no +uncommon ground of complaint among them, that even the total defeat of our +forces would bring with it no relief, because, by remaining to receive us, they +had disobeyed the proclamations of Marshal Soult, and were consequently liable +to punishment as traitors. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap02"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<p> +A soon as the bustle of encamping was over, and my time absolutely at my own +disposal, I took advantage of an offered passport, and proceeded into Bayonne. +It will be readily believed that I entered this city with feelings very +different from those of a common traveller. Having lain before it as a besieger +for upwards of two months, its shops, its trade, its public buildings and +places of amusement were to me objects of, comparatively speaking, little +interest or curiosity. Its fortifications and means of defence were, in truth, +what I was principally anxious to examine. Hitherto I could judge of them only +from outward appearances and vague reports; and now that an opportunity offered +of so doing with greater accuracy, I confess that my inclination prompted me to +embrace that opportunity, rather than to hunt for pictures which I could not +value, or fatigue my imagination by endeavouring to discover fine specimens of +architecture amidst heavy and ill-built churches. +</p> + +<p> +It is not my intention to attempt any scientific or technical review of the +works which a very natural curiosity tempted me to examine; partly because I +confess myself little competent to the task and partly because, were the +contrary the case, I am inclined to believe that such a review would not prove +very interesting to the public in general. Enough is done if I endeavour to +impress my reader with as many of the feelings which I then experienced, as may +be done by detailing them; and, at the same time, enable him to form some +general idea of a place before whose walls no trifling quantity of British +blood has been spilt. +</p> + +<p> +The city of Bayonne stands, as everybody knows, upon the Adour, about six or +eight miles from the point where that river falls into the sea. On the southern +or Spanish bank, where the whole of the city, properly so called, is built, the +country, to the distance of two or three miles from the walls, is perfectly +flat and the soil sandy, and apparently not very productive. On the bank the +ground rises rather abruptly from the brink of the stream, sloping upwards +likewise from the sea, till you arrive at the pinnacle upon which the citadel +is erected, and which hangs immediately over the town. Thus, though the Adour +in fact separates the city from the suburbs and citadel, yet as the ramparts of +the former extend to the water’s edge on both sides, and as those of the +latter continue the sweep from points immediately opposite, the general +appearance presented is that of one considerable town, with a broad river +flowing through the middle of it. +</p> + +<p> +It will be seen, even from this short and imperfect sketch, that its situation +gives to Bayonne, considered as a military post, a superiority over most +cities; inasmuch as it affords peculiar facilities towards rendering it a place +of great strength. On one side there is a plain, always accounted by engineers +the most convenient for the construction of fortifications; on the other an +eminence, lofty enough to command the surrounding country, and at the same time +sufficiently level at the summit to receive the walls of a fortress, powerful +at once from its position and regularity. But the great strength of Bayonne +arose at this juncture not so much from its original defences as from the +numerous outworks which had been lately added to it. It was along the course of +the Adour, as the reader will probably recollect, or rather between the Adour +and the Nieve, that Soult formed his famous intrenched camp. The right of this +chain of stupendous works rested upon the city, the importance of which was +consequently much increased; and as the capture of it would have occasioned not +only the loss of a town, but the turning of the whole position, no pains were +spared in rendering it as nearly impregnable as possible. That I may convey +some notion to the minds of others of the nature of these works, I will +describe the aspect which they presented to myself, as I rode from Anglet +towards the city. +</p> + +<p> +When I had proceeded about a mile and a half beyond our advanced posts, I found +myself in front of the first line of defence. This consisted of a battery +mounting three eighteen-pounders, upon the road, flanked by other batteries, +one on each side; all so placed as that whichsoever of them should be attacked, +it might be defended by a cross-fire from the rest. These were of course +additionally strengthened by ditches and felled trees; but they were open in +the rear; and though very formidable to an assailing party, yet, when taken, +could have been of small service to the conquerors, being themselves exposed to +the fire of the second line. The situation of the second line, again, was +similar in every respect to that of the first, being, like it, open in the +rear, and placed under the guns of the town. Thus, after having forced two +powerful lines of defence, the besiegers would find themselves almost as far as +ever from the attainment of their object, being then only arrived at the point +where the labours of a siege could commence. +</p> + +<p> +But the maintenance of Bayonne must at all times depend upon keeping possession +of the citadel. The city lying upon a plain, and the castle standing upon an +eminence immediately above it, it is clear that, were the latter taken, the +former must either surrender or be speedily reduced to ruins. It is true that, +by destroying the bridge which connects them, all communication between the two +places would be cut off; but the distance from the one to the other being not +more than half-musket shot, and the guns of the fort pointing directly down +upon the streets and of the city, any attempt to hold out could cause only the +destruction of the town, and the unavenged slaughter of its garrison. Of the +truth of this the French were as much aware as their enemies, nor did they +neglect any means which an accurate knowledge of engineering could point out, +for the defence of what they justly considered as the key of the entire +position. In addition to its own very regular and well-constructed +fortifications, two strong redoubts were thrown up, on two sides of the fort, +upon the only spots of ground calculated for the purpose; both of which, I was +informed by my guide, were undermined and loaded with gunpowder, ready to be +sprung as soon as they should fill into our hands. They had judged, and judged +correctly, that if ever the place should be invested, it would be that the +trenches would be opened and the breaching batteries erected; and they made +every preparation to meet the danger which great prudence and military skill +could suggest. +</p> + +<p> +Bayonne, though a populous place, does not cover so much ground as a stranger +would be led to suppose. Like most walled towns, its streets, with the +exception of one or two, are in general narrow, and the houses lofty: but it is +compact, and, on the whole, clean, and neatly built. The number of inhabitants +I should be inclined to estimate at somewhere about thirty thousand, exclusive +of the garrison, which at this time amounted to fourteen or fifteen thousand +men; but as most of the families appear to live in the style of those in the +old town of Edinburgh, that is to say, several under the same roof, though each +in a separate story or flat, it is not difficult to conceive how they contrive +to find sufficient room, within a compass apparently so narrow. Of its commerce +and manufactures I can say little, except that I should not imagine either to +be extensive. I am led to form this opinion, partly from having seen no +shipping at the wharfs, and partly because the Adour, though here both wide and +deep, is rendered unnavigable to vessels of any size, by a shallow or bar at +its mouth. There was, indeed, a sloop of war close to the town, but how it got +there I am at a loss to conceive, unless it were built upon the river, and kept +as an additional protection against a surprise from the water. The shops are, +however, good, particularly those where jewellery is sold; an article in the +setting and adorning of which the French, if they do not excel us in really +substantial value, undoubtedly surpass us in elegance. +</p> + +<p> +When I had taken as complete a survey of the town as I felt disposed to take, I +crossed the bridge with the intention of inspecting the interior of the +citadel. Here, however, I was disappointed, no strangers being admitted within +its gates; but as there was no objection made to my reconnoitring it from +without, I proceeded towards the point where our trenches had been dug, and +where it had been designed to breach and storm the place. To this I was urged +by two motives, partly from the desire of obtaining the best view possible of +the fort, and partly that I might examine the ground upon which the desperate +affair of the 14th of April took place. The reader cannot have forgotten, that +some hours before daylight on the morning of that day, a vigorous and +well-arranged sortie was made by the garrison, and that it was not without hard +fighting and a severe loss on both sides that the attack was finally repulsed. +</p> + +<p> +Mounting the heights, I soon arrived at St. Etienne, a little village nearly on +a level with the citadel, and not more than a quarter of a mile from its walls. +From this point I could satisfy my curiosity to the full, and as the account +may not, perhaps, be uninteresting, I shall describe, as well as I am able, the +scene which here met my eyes. +</p> + +<p> +St. Etienne +</p> + +<p> +The ridge of little hills upon which the fort and village are built, though it +rises by gentle gradation from the sea, towards the spot where I now stood, is +nevertheless intersected and broken here and there by deep glens or ravines. +Two of these glens, one to the right, the other to the left, chance to occur +immediately under the ramparts of the fortress, supplying, in some measure, the +purposes of a ditch, and leaving a sort of table or elevated neck of land +between them, the extremity of which is occupied by the village. On this neck +of land the besieged had constructed one of the redoubts to which I alluded as +having been lately thrown up; whilst on another table, at the opposite side of +the left ravine, which winds round in the direction of the wall, as nearly as +if it were the work of art, stands the other redoubt. Beyond this, again, there +is a perpendicular precipice, the hills there abruptly ending; so that on two +sides the walls of the fort skirt the extremity of a bare rock. It was along +the outer ridges of these ravines, and through the churchyard of St. Etienne, +that our trenches were drawn, the village itself being the most advanced +British post; and it was along these ridges, and in the street of this village, +that the action of the 14th of April was fought. +</p> + +<p> +It is not my business, neither indeed is it my intention, to relate here the +particulars of that affair. The French, having contrived, in a dark night, to +elude the vigilance of our sentinels, came upon the piquets unperceived, and +took them completely by surprise. The battle was maintained on both sides with +great determination, and had it not been for the unfortunate capture of Sir +John Hope and the fall of General Hay, the assailants would have had little +cause to rejoice at the result: for though the loss of the English was +certainly great, that of the French was at least not inferior. Yet the business +was an unfortunate one to both parties, since, before it took place, Buonaparte +had already abdicated, and the preliminaries of peace were already signed +between the two nations. +</p> + +<p> +I found the village, in which the fighting had been most obstinately +maintained, in the condition of most villages where such dramas have been +acted. The street had been barricaded, but the barricade was almost entirely +torn down; the houses, trees, and church, like those we had passed upon the +march, were covered with the marks of cannon and musket balls, whilst +quantities of round and grape shot, of musket and pistol bullets, broken +bayonets, swords, &c. &c., lay scattered about in every direction. Nor +were these the only evidences of strife discernible. In many places—on +the pavement of the street, in the churchyard, but above all, on the floor of +the church itself, —the traces of blood were still distinctly visible. +Beside the remains of the barricade there stood a solitary six-pounder, which +had been taken and re-taken nine times during the struggle; and a sprinkling of +what looked like a mixture of blood and brains still adhering to its carriage +and breech, showed that it had never been given up without the most desperate +resistance. The mounds, too, under which the dead were buried, presented a +peculiarly striking appearance; for the field of action having been narrow, +those that fell, fell in heaps together, and being buried in the same way, one +was led to form an idea of greater slaughter than if double the number of +graves had been distinguishable in a more extended space. +</p> + +<p> +Having now accomplished my wishes as far as I could, and beginning to feel +somewhat fatigued with strolling about, I adjourned to an hotel in the city, +from whence, in the evening, I went to the play. The house was poor and the +performance miserable, consequently there was no great inducement to sit out +the whole of the piece. After witnessing an act or two, therefore, I returned +to the inn, where I slept, and at an early hour next morning rejoined my +regiment, already under arms and making preparations for the continuance of the +march. +</p> + +<h3>MARCH THROUGH BAYONNE—TO ONDRES</h3> + +<p> +As it would have been considerably out of our way to go round by the floating +bridge<a href="#linknote-1" name="linknoteref-1" +id="linknoteref-1"><sup>[1]</sup></a>, permission was applied for and granted, +to pass directly through Bayonne. With bayonets fixed, band playing, and +colours flying, we accordingly marched along the streets of that city; a large +proportion of the garrison being drawn up to receive us, and the windows +crowded with spectators, male and female, eager to behold the troops from whom +not long ago they had probably expected a visit of a very different nature. The +scene was certainly remarkable enough, and the transition from animosity to +good-will as singular as it was sudden; nor do I imagine that it would be easy +to define the sensations of either party, on being thus strangely brought n +contact with the other. The females, indeed, waved their handkerchiefs, whilst +we bowed and kissed our hands; but I thought I could discover something like a +suppressed scowl upon the countenances of the military. Certain it is, that in +whatever light the new state of affairs might be regarded by the great bulk of +the nation, with the army it was by no means popular; and at this period they +appeared to consider the passage of British troops through their lines as the +triumphal entrance of a victorious enemy. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="linknote-1" id="linknote-1"></a> <a href="#linknoteref-1">[1]</a> +The bridge here alluded to was thrown across the Adour by the Duke of +Wellington at the commencement of the siege. It was composed of a number of +small fishing vessels fastened together with cords, and planked from one to +another, the whole firmly moored about three miles below Bayonne. Whether the +daringness of the attempt, or the difficulties surmounted in its completion, be +considered, the construction of this bridge may be looked upon as one of the +most extraordinary actions of that extraordinary man. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as we had cleared the entrenchments of Bayonne, and got beyond the +limits of the allied camps, we found ours in a country more peaceful and more +picturesque than any we had yet traversed. There were here no signs of war or +marks of violence. The cottages were covered with honeysuckle and roses, the +gardens were blooming in the most perfect order; the corn was growing in great +plenty and richness, and the vines were clustering round their poles like the +hops in the gardens of Kent. It is impossible to describe the feeling of +absolute refreshment which such a sight stirred up in men who, for so long a +time, had looked upon nothing but ruin and devastation. It is true that with +respect to grandeur, or even beauty, the scenery through which we now travelled +was not to be compared with the sublime passes of the Pyrenees, or with many +spots which we had beheld; but in truth, a hamlet uninjured and tenanted by its +own rude peasantry, a field of Indian corn exhibiting no wasteful track of +foragers, nay, a single cottage with its flowers and evergreens budding around +it, was at this a more welcome object to our eyes than the wildest mountains or +most romantic valleys displaying no habitations except white tents and no +inhabitants except soldiers. For my own part I felt as if I had once more +returned into the bosom of civilized and domestic life, after having been for +many months a wanderer and a savage. +</p> + +<p> +The road along which we proceeded had been made by Napoleon, and was remarkably +good. It was sheltered, on each side, from the rays of the sun, by groves of +cork-trees mingled with fir; by which means, though the day was overpoweringly +hot, we did not suffer so much as we should otherwise have done. Our march was, +therefore, exceedingly agreeable, and we came in, about noon, very little +fatigued, to the village of Ondres, where the tents were pitched, and we +remained till the morrow. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap03"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<h3>LES LANDES</h3> + +<p> +The dawn was just beginning to appear, when the bugles sounded, and the tents +were struck. For the first few leagues, our route to-day resembled that of +yesterday, in almost every particular. There was the same appearance of +peaceful quiet, the same delightful intermingling of woods, corn-fields, +vineyards, and pasture; but we had not proceeded far, when a marked difference +was perceptible; every step we trod, the soil became more and more sandy, the +cultivation less frequent, and the wood more abundant, till at last we found +ourselves marching through the heart of an immense forest of pines. We had +diverged, it appeared, from the main road, which carries the traveller through +a rich and open country, and were pursuing another through the middle of those +deserts and savannahs which lie towards the coast; a district known by the name +of les Landes. There was something, if not beautiful, at least new and striking +in the scenery now around us. Wherever the eye turned, it was met by one wide +waste of gloomy pine-trees; diversified, here and there, by the unexpected +appearance of a modest hamlet, which looked as if it were the abode of some +newly arrived settlers in a country hitherto devoid of human habitations. +</p> + +<p> +Were I to continue the detail of a long march through these barren regions, I +should soon fatigue, without amusing my reader: I shall, therefore, content +myself with observing, that day after day the same dreary prospect presented +itself, varied by the occasional occurrence of huge uncultivated plains, which +apparently chequer the forest, at certain intervals, with spots of stunted and +unprofitable pasturage; upon these there were usually flocks of sheep grazing, +in the mode of watching which, the peasants fully evinced the truth of the old +proverb, that necessity is the mother of invention. I do not know whether the +practice to which I allude be generally known, but as it struck me as very +remarkable, I shall offer no apology for relating it. +</p> + +<p> +The whole of this district, as well where it is wooded, as where it is bare, is +perfectly flat, containing scarcely a knoll or eminence any sort, as far as the +eye can reach. In addition to this, the vast plains where the sheep are fed, +many of which extend two or three leagues in every direction, produce not so +much as a fir-tree, by climbing which, a man might see to any of its +extremities: and the consequence is, that the shepherds are constantly in +danger of losing their sheep, as one loses sight of a vessel at sea, in the +distance. To remedy this evil, they have fallen upon a plan not more simple +than ingenious; they all walk on stilts, exactly similar to those with which +our school-boys amuse themselves; the only difference lying here, that whereas +the school-boys’ stilts are with us seldom raised above ten or twelve +inches from the ground, those of the French peasants are elevated to the height +of six or eight feet. +</p> + +<p> +When we first caught a glimpse of these figures, it was in the dusk of the +morning, and for awhile we were willing to persuade ourselves that the haze had +deceived us, by seeming to enlarge bodies beyond their real dimensions. But +when we looked at the trees, we saw them in their own proper size, nor could we +suppose that the atmosphere would have an effect upon one object, which it had +not upon another; yet there appeared to be no other way of accounting for the +phenomenon, unless indeed this wild country were the parent of a race of +giants, for the men whom we saw resembled moving towers rather than mortals. I +need not observe that our astonishment was very great; nor, in was it much +diminished when, on a nearer approach, we discovered the truth, and witnessed +the agility with which they moved, and the ease with which, aided by the poles +which each carried in his hand, they would stoop to the ground, pick up the +article, and stand upright again. But if we admired the skill of one or two +individuals, our admiration rose to a still higher pitch when we saw crowds of +them together, all equally skilful; till they informed us that the thing was +not an amusement, but universally practised for the purpose I have stated. +</p> + +<p> +Besides this, I know of nothing in the customs of this isolated people at all +worthy of notice, unless, indeed, it be their method of supplying themselves +with lights. Being completely cut off from the rest of the world, it is not in +their power, except when once or twice a-year they travel to the nearest towns +with their wool, to purchase candles; and as they have no notion how these can +be made, they substitute in their room a lamp, fed with the turpentine +extracted from the fir-trees. The whole process is simple and primitive: to +obtain the turpentine they out a hole in the tree, and fasten a dish in it to +catch the sap as it oozes through; and as soon as the dish is filled, they put +a wick of cotton into the midst of the liquor, and burn it as we do a lamp. The +light is not indeed of the most brilliant nature, but it is at least better +than none; and as they have fir-trees in abundance within their reach, there is +no danger of their oil being quickly exhausted. +</p> + +<h3>MARCH TO BORDEAUX</h3> + +<p> +In this manner was an entire week expended, each succeeding day introducing us +to a repetition of the same adventures, and a renewal of the same scenery, +which had amused us during the day before; nor was it till the morning of the +twenty-third that we at last began to emerge from the forests, and to find +ourselves once again in a more open country. At first, however, it cannot be +said that, with respect to beauty, the change was greatly for the better. Upon +the borders of the deserts there is a little village called Le Barp, where we +spent the night of the twenty-second; from whence, till you arrive at a place +called Belle-Vue, the country is exactly in that state which land assumes when +nature has begun to lose ground, and art to gain it—when the wild +simplicity of the one is destroyed, and the rich luxuriance of the other has +not yet been superinduced. So far, therefore, we proceeded, regretting, rather +than rejoicing, that we had quitted the woods; but no sooner had we attained +that point, than there burst upon us, all on a sudden, a prospect as gloriously +fertile as ever delighted the eyes of a weary traveller. +</p> + +<h3>BORDEAUX</h3> + +<p> +Instead of boundless forests of pine, the whole face of the country was now +covered with vineyards, interspersed, in the most exquisite and tasteful +manner, with corn-fields and meadows of the richest pasturage. Nor was there +any deficiency of timber; a well-wooded chateau, with its lawn and plantations, +here and there presenting itself, while quiet hamlets and solitary cottages, +scattered in great abundance over the scene, gave to it an appearance of life +and prosperity exceedingly bewitching. Had there been but the addition of a +fine river flowing through the midst of it, and had the ground been somewhat +more broken into hill and dale, I should have pronounced it the most enchanting +prospect of the kind I had ever beheld; but, unfortunately, both these were +wanting. Though the effect of a first view, therefore, was striking and +delightful, and though to the last we could not help acknowledging the richness +of the land and its high state of cultivation, its beauty soon began to pall. +The fact is, that an immense plain, however adorned by the labour of man, is +not an object upon which it is pleasing to gaze for any length of time; the eye +becomes wearied with the extent of its own stretch, and as there is no boundary +but the horizon, the imagination is left to picture a continuance of the same +plain, till it becomes as tired of fancying as the eye is of looking. Besides, +we were not long in discovering that the vineyards were unworthy to be +compared, in point of luxuriant appearance, with those of Spain and the more +southern regions of France. In this neighbourhood the vine is not permitted to +grow to a greater height than three or four feet from the ground; whereas in +Spain, and on the borders, it climbs, like the hop-plant in England, to the top +of high poles, and hangs over from one row to another, in the most graceful +festoons. In spite of these objections, however, no one could do otherwise than +admit that the change we had experienced was agreeable, and we continued to +move on with greater alacrity, till it was evident, from the increasing number +of seats and villas, that we were rapidly approaching the vicinity of Bordeaux. +</p> + +<p> +Nor was it long before the towers and buildings of that magnificent city began +to be discernible in the distance. Prompted by I know not what impulse, we +almost involuntarily quickened our pace at the sight, and in a short time +reached the suburbs, which like those of most French towns, are composed of low +houses, inhabited by the poorest and meanest of the people. Here we halted for +a few minutes to refresh the men, when having again resumed the line of march, +we advanced under a triumphal arch, originally erected in honour of Napoleon, +but now inscribed with the name of the Duke d’Angouleme, and ornamented +with garlands of flowers. Passing under this, we proceeded along one or two +handsome streets, till we reached the Military Hospital, a large and commodious +structure fitted up for the reception of several thousands of sick, where it +was arranged that we should spend the night. +</p> + +<p> +The city of Bordeaux has been too often described, and is too well known to my +countrymen, in general, to render any particular account of it at all necessary +from me; and were the case otherwise, I confess that my opportunities of +examining it were not sufficient to authorize my entering upon such an attempt. +The whole extent of our sojourn was only during the remainder of that day (and +it was past noon before we got in) and the ensuing night; a space of time which +admitted of no more than a hurried stroll through some of the principal +streets, and a hasty visit to such public buildings as are considered most +worthy of attention. The palace of the Duke d’Angouleme, the Military +Hospital, the Theatre, and the Cathedral, are all remarkably fine of their +kind; whilst the public gardens, the Exchange, and fashionable promenades, are +inferior only to those of Paris itself. +</p> + +<h3>MACAU</h3> + +<p> +I have said that our sojourn in Bordeaux was limited to the short space of a +few hours. We could have wished indeed to prolong it, but to wish was needless, +for at an early hour next morning we were again in motion, and proceeded to an +extensive common, near the village of Macau, about three leagues from Bordeaux, +where we found a considerable force already assembled. Judging from the number +of tents upon the heath, I conceive that there could not be fewer than eight or +ten thousand men in that camp, the whole of whom, we naturally concluded, were +destined for the same service with ourselves. The sight was at once pleasing +and encouraging, because there could be no doubt that such a force, ably +commanded, would carry everything before it. +</p> + +<p> +In this situation we continued, without the occurrence of any incident +deserving of record, till the 27th, when an order arrived for the officers to +dispose of their horses without delay. This was necessarily done at an enormous +loss; and on the morning of the 28th, we set forward towards the point of +embarkation. But, alas! in the numbers allotted for the trans-Atlantic war, we +found ourselves grievously disappointed, since, instead of the whole division, +only two regiments, neither of them surpassingly numerous, were directed to +move; it was not our business, however, to question the wisdom of any measure +adopted by our superiors; and we accordingly marched on in as high spirits as +if we had been followed by the entire Peninsular army. +</p> + +<p> +The remainder of our journey occupied two days, nor do I often remember to have +spent a similar space of time with greater satisfaction; our route lay through +some of the most fertile districts in France, passing Chateau Margaux, famous +for its wine, with other places not inferior to it either in richness of soil +or in beauty of prospect. The weather was delightful, and the grapes, though +not yet ripe, were hanging in heavy bunches from the vines, giving promise of +much wealth to come; the hay season had commenced, and numerous groups of +happy-looking peasants were busy in every field; in short, it was a march upon +which I shall never look back without pleasure. +</p> + +<h3>LA MOE.—AT SEA</h3> + +<p> +The close of the first day’s progress brought us to a village called La +Moe, beautifully situated within view of the majestic waters of the Garonne. +Here, for the first time since we quitted Bayonne, were we quartered upon the +inhabitants—a measure which the loss of our tents rendered necessary. +They received us with so much frankness, and treated us with so much civility, +I had almost said kindness, that it was not without a feeling of something like +regret that we parted from them. The second day carried us to Pauliac, an +inconsiderable town upon the banks of the same river, where we found boats +ready to convey us to the shipping, which lay at anchor to receive us. +</p> + +<p> +To embark the troops in these boats, and to huddle them on board two dirty +little transports, occupied some time, and the provoking part of the business +was, that all this trouble was to be gone through again. The men-of-war in +which we were to cross the Atlantic, could not come up so high for want of +water; and on this account it was that transports were sent as passage-boats to +carry us to them. But the wind was foul, and blew so strong that the masters +would not venture to hoist a sail; so we were obliged to endure the misery of a +crowd in a small vessel for two nights and a day; nor was it till past noon on +the 31st, that the regiment to which I was attached found itself finally +settled in His Majesty’s ship ———— of 64 guns. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap04"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<h3>AT SEA</h3> + +<p> +The land army, destined for the invasion of the United States, which took +shipping at this period in the Garonne, consisted but of three battalions of +infantry, the 4th, 44th, and 85th regiments; the two former mustering each +about eight hundred bayonets, the last not more than six hundred. In addition +to these, there were two officers of engineers, a brigade of artillery, a +detachment of sappers and miners, a party of artillery drivers, with a due +proportion of officers belonging to the Medical and Commissariat departments. +The whole together could not be computed at more than two thousand five hundred +men, if indeed it amounted to so great a number; and was placed under the +command of Major-General Ross, a very gallant and experienced officer. +</p> + +<p> +The fleet, again, consisted of the Royal Oak, of 74 guns, bearing the flag of +Rear-Admiral Malcolm; the Diadem and Dictator, two sixty-fours, armed en flute; +the Pomone, Menelaus, Trave, Weser, and Thames, frigates, the three last armed +in the same manner as the Diadem and Dictator; the Meteor and Devastation, +bomb-vessels; together with one or two gun-brigs, making in all a squadron of +eleven or twelve ships of war, with several storeships and transports. +</p> + +<p> +On board the Royal Oak were embarked the General, with his staff, and the +artillery; the Trave and Weser were filled with the 4th; the 44th were divided +between the Dictator and the Thames, in the first of which ships were also the +engineers; the 85th occupied the Diadem; and the rest were scattered through +the fleet, partly in the men-of-war and partly in the transports. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as the troops, with all their baggage, were finally settled in the +vessels allotted for their accommodation, the signal was made to weigh; but the +wind being adverse, and the navigation of the Garonne far from simple, it could +not be obeyed with safety. Every thing, therefore, remained quiet till the +evening of the 2nd of June, when the gale moderating a little, the anchors were +raised and the sails hoisted. The tide was beginning to ebb when this was done, +favoured by which the ships drifted gradually on their course; but before long, +the breeze shifting, blew directly in their sterns, when they stood gallantly +to sea, clearing the river before dark; and, as there was no lull during the +whole of the night, by daybreak the coast of France was not to be discerned. +All was now one wide waste of waters, as far as the eye could reach, bounded on +every side by the distant horizon; a scene which, though at first it must +strike with awe and wonder a person unaccustomed to it, soon becomes insipid, +and even wearisome, from its constant sameness. +</p> + +<h3>ST. MICHAEL’S</h3> + +<p> +The fair wind which carried us out of the Garonne continuing to blow without +any interruption till the 19th of June, it was that day calculated, by +consulting the log and taking observations, that the Azores, or Western +Islands, could not be very distant. Nor, as it turned out, were these +calculations incorrect; for, on ascending the deck next morning, the first +object that met our eyes was the high land of St Michael’s rising, like a +collection of blue clouds, out of the water. With such a prospect before us our +consternation may be guessed at, when we found ourselves deserted by the breeze +which had hitherto so uniformly favoured us, and lying as motionless as logs, +under the influence of a dead calm. +</p> + +<p> +But the complaints to which we had begun to give utterance, were speedily +changed again into rejoicings, for before mid-day the breeze once more +freshened, and we approached every moment nearer and nearer to the object of +our wishes. As soon, too, as we contrived to double the projecting headland +which had attracted our attention in the morning, our course became productive +of much interest and pleasure. We had neared the shore considerably, and were +moving at a rate sufficiently rapid to prevent further repining, and at the +same time slow enough to permit a distinct and calm survey of the beach, with +the numerous villages, seats, and convents that adorned it. +</p> + +<p> +The island of St. Michael is mountainous, even to the very edge of the water, +but the heights, though lofty, do not present a rugged or barren appearance. +Here and there, indeed, bare rocks push themselves into notice, but in general +the ascent is easy, and the hills are covered to the tops with groves of +orange-trees and beautiful green pasturage. Like other Portuguese settlements, +this island abounds in religious houses, the founders of many of which do not +appear to have been deficient in taste when they pitched upon situations for +building. There was one of these in particular that struck me: it stood upon a +sort of platform or terrace, about half-way between the sea and the summit of +the mountain; above it were hanging woods, whether natural or artificial I +cannot say, broken in upon here and there by projecting rocks; and round it +were plantations of orange-trees loaded with fruit, and interspersed with +myrtles and other odoriferous shrubs. Being greatly pleased with the mansion +and the surrounding scenery, I naturally inquired from the pilot (for one had +already come off to us) as to its use, and the quality of Its owner; and from +him I learnt that it was a convent, I forget of what order,—a piece of +intelligence which was soon confirmed by the sound of bells distinctly audible +as we passed. +</p> + +<h3>VILLA FRANCA.</h3> + +<p> +In this manner we continued to coast along, being seldom at a greater distance +than four or five miles from the land, till we came opposite to a small town +called Villa Franca. Here, as the wind threatened to die away, several others +and myself agreed to go onshore: a boat was accordingly lowered, and we pushed +off from the ship; but the operation of landing did not prove to be altogether +so simple as we had expected. An immense reef of rocks, some under water, +others barely above it, but none distinguishable till we had almost run against +them, opposed our progress; and it was not without considerable difficulty, and +the assistance of the country people, who made signals to us from the beach, +that we contrived to discover a narrow channel leading up to the strand. +</p> + +<p> +Having at length so far attained our wishes as to tread once more upon firm +ground, the next thing to be done was to find out some inn, or house of public +entertainment, where we might pass the night, a measure which the increasing +darkness rendered necessary. In this, however, we were disappointed, the town +of Villa Franca boasting of no such convenience on any scale. But we were not +on that account obliged to bivouac; for the Alcalde, or mayor of the place, +politely insisted upon our accompanying him home, and entertained us with great +hospitality; nor, in truth, had we any cause to regret the unsuccessful issue +of our inquiries, since, in addition to the good cheer with which we were +presented, our host, being an intelligent person, did not fail to render +himself an agreeable companion; and what contributed in no slight degree to the +facility of our intercourse was, that though he assured us he had never quitted +St. Michael’s in his life, he spoke English with the fluency of a native. +Among other pieces of information we learnt from him that the reef which +impeded our progress towards the land, had formerly been an island. It +appeared, he affirmed, one morning, in the most sudden and extraordinary +manner, as if it had been thrown up by an earthquake during the night, and +having continued so long above water as to embolden a single family of fishers +to settle upon it, it disappeared again as suddenly as it had come, leaving no +trace of its existence except the rocks which we had found so troublesome. +Whether there be truth in this story, I cannot pretend to determine; and yet I +see no reason to doubt the word of a man of respectability, who could have no +motive whatever for deceiving us. But this was not all that we learnt from him +respecting the reef. He declared that previous to the appearance of the island, +the water in that very spot was unfathomable; and it was not till after it had +sunk, that a single rock stood in the way to prevent the largest ship of war +from anchoring within a stone’s throw of the beach. +</p> + +<p> +Finding our new acquaintance so civil and obliging, we naturally informed him +of our intention to proceed next morning to Ponto del Gada, the principal town +in St. Michael’s, and requested his assistance in procuring some mode of +conveyance; but we were startled by the intelligence that nothing of the kind +could be had, and that there were not even horses or mules to be hired at any +place nearer than the very town whither we were going. This was rather an +alarming piece of news, for our boat had left us, the weather was too hot for +walking, and the distance to be travelled full fifteen miles. Had we been +prudent enough to detain our boat, the matter would have been easily managed, +because we might have sailed round to the point where the fleet was to anchor; +but this was no longer in our power, and being rather unwilling to pursue our +journey on foot, we were altogether at a loss upon what course to determine. +Whilst we thus hesitated, the Alcalde suggested that if we would condescend to +ride upon asses, he thought he could obtain a sufficient number for our party; +a proposal with which we gladly closed, prudently determining that any mode of +being carried was better than walking. Leaving the arrangement of this affair, +therefore, to our obliging friend, we retired to rest upon clean comfortable +mattresses spread for us on the floor; and on waking in the morning, we found +that he had not been negligent in the charge assigned to him. Our party +consisted of five officers, with five servants, for whose accommodation we +found ten asses at the door, each attended by its driver, who wielded a long +pole tipped with an iron spike, for the purpose of goading the animal whenever +it should become lazy. +</p> + +<p> +It was not without a good deal of laughing that the cavalcade, after bidding +adieu to the hospitable Mayor, began to move forward. Our asses, of no larger +size than ordinary English donkeys, were uncaparisoned, at least with bridles; +and the saddles were neither more nor less than the pack-saddles upon which +goods are transported to market. For our own comfort, therefore, we were +obliged to sit a la femelle, and having no command over the heads of our +steeds, we were content to be guided by the hallooing and punching of the +drivers. In spite, however, of these inconveniences, if so they may be called, +I shall never cease to congratulate myself on having been of the party, because +the ride proved to be one of the most agreeable I remember at any time to have +taken. +</p> + +<p> +The road from Villa Franca to Ponto del Gada quits the water’s edge, and +turns, for a little way, inland, carrying you through a region as romantic and +beautiful as can well be imagined. There are here no level plains, no smooth +paths over which a landau or tilbury might glide, but, on the contrary, a +rugged and stony track, sometimes leading down the face of steep hills, +sometimes scaling heights which at the distance of a mile appear to be almost +perpendicular, and sometimes winding along the side of a cliff, and by the edge +of a fearful precipice. Except when you reach the summit of a mountain, the +road is in general shaded by the richest underwood, hanging over it from above; +but the whole aspect of the country is decidedly that of a volcanic production: +the rocks seem to have been cast up and torn asunder by some prodigious +violence, and hurled, by a force which nothing but a volcano could possess, +into the most grotesque and irregular shapes. It is no uncommon thing to pass +under a huge crag, leaning almost horizontally over the road, and bedded in the +earth by a foundation apparently so slight, as to appear liable to fall every +moment, precipitating the enormous mass upon the luckless wretch beneath. Nay, +the very colour of the stones, and the quantity of what bears every resemblance +to vitrification, scattered about, all tend to induce the, belief that the main +island owes its formation to the same cause which doubtless produced the +smaller one that has now disappeared. +</p> + +<h3>ST. MICHAEL’S</h3> + +<p> +It is not, however, to be inferred from the above description that St. +Michael’s is nothing but a barren rock; far from it. There is, indeed, in +this direction at least, a fair proportion of that commodity; but tracts of +cultivated ground are not therefore wanting. I should not certainly suppose +that the soil was remarkably rich in any part of the island; but it produces +the fig, the orange-tree, and a grape from which the inhabitants make very +tolerable wine; and there is excellent pasture for sheep, and a competent +supply of grain. But that in which the Azores, and St. Michael’s among +the number, particularly excel, is the extreme salubrity of the climate. Lying +in nearly the same degree of latitude with Lisbon, the intense heat which +oppresses in that city is here alleviated by refreshing sea-breezes; by which +means, though I believe there is no occasion at any season to complain of cold, +it is only in the very height of the dog-days, if then, that a person, not +actually engaged in violent exercise, is justified in complaining of +sultriness. +</p> + +<p> +The trade of St. Michael’s, as far as I could learn, is confined +exclusively to fruit: the fig and the orange are the staple commodities; and +being both very abundant, they are, of course, proportionably cheap. Into the +praise of a St. Michael’s orange it is unnecessary for me to enter, +because it is generally allowed to be the best with which the English market is +supplied; but of the excellence of the St. Michael’s fig, I am not sure +that my countrymen in general are so much aware. It might be, that not having +seen a fig for a considerable lapse of time, my appetite was peculiarly +sharpened towards its good qualities, but it struck me that I never before +tasted any so highly flavoured or so delicate. Besides these, they sell to +vessels putting in, as we did, for water, some of the wine made in this and the +neighbouring islands; but the quantity thus disposed of must be too +inconsiderable to entitle it to be classed among the articles of merchandise. +</p> + +<p> +I find, however, that I am entering upon subjects in which I am but little +versed, and digressing from my narrative. Let me return, then, to self, that +beloved idol of all travellers, and state that, after we had ridden about six +miles, the road, which had hitherto conducted us along a narrow glen, where the +vision was intercepted on both sides, now carried us to the summit of a lofty +mountain, from whence we enjoyed the satisfaction of an extensive prospect, +both of the sea and of the interior. Looking towards the former, we beheld our +own fleet bearing down majestically upon Ponto del Gada, and fast approaching +the anchorage. Turning our eyes inland again, we were delighted with a view of +mountain and valley, rock and culture, wood and pasturage, intermingled in the +most exquisite degree of irregularity; but what principally attracted our +attention was a thick dark smoke rising slowly from the summit of a high hill +that bounded the prospect. Our curiosity being excited by this phenomenon, we +inquired from our guides into its cause, and were informed that the mountain in +question was a volcano, and that at its base and along its sides were hot +springs of water, of a temperature sufficient to boil an egg in three minutes. +This piece of intelligence confirmed me in my former opinion relative to the +operative cause in the production of these islands; though, indeed, had such +evidence been wanting, I should have equally concluded, either that they were +thrown up, in their present form, from the bottom of the sea, or at least that +they were torn asunder from one another by the force of fire. It must be +confessed, however, that mine is the opinion of one who has devoted little of +his attention to geology; but I would by all means advise the disciples of +Werner to come hither, if they desire further helps in the prosecution of that +very interesting and practically useful study. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap05"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<p> +Descending the mountain, on which we had paused for a few minutes to feast our +eyes and satisfy our curiosity, we arrived at a small hamlet, or rather a group +of two or three hovels, as romantically situated as it is possible for the +imagination of man to conceive. They stood at the further end of a sort of +recess, formed by the hills, which are here broken into a circular valley, cut +off, to all appearance, from the rest of the habitable world; behind them rose +a towering crag, as perpendicular as the drop of a plummet, from the top of +which a little rivulet came tumbling down, giving to the scene an appearance of +the most delightful coolness, and amusing the ear with the unceasing roar of a +waterfall. From the very face of the cliff, where there seemed to be scarcely +soil enough to nourish a thistle, numerous shrubs and dwarf trees protruded +themselves; whilst above it, and on every side of the area, the hills were +covered with wood, interrupted now and then by the bald forehead of a blackened +rock. In front of the hamlet again, there was an opening sufficient to admit +the most delicious glimpse of the ocean; and through this the stream, after +boiling for awhile in a little basin, which it has excavated for itself out of +what resembles the foundation of the cliff, makes its way, brawling over a +clear pebbly bottom, till it joins the sea. +</p> + +<p> +This paragon of valleys burst upon us as such scenes, to be witnessed with +advantage, ought to do, without the slightest warning or expectation. The road +by which we approached it, being completely shut in with wood, and winding +considerably to aid the descent, brought us out nearly at the gorge of the +vale, so as to throw the hamlet, the cliff, and the waterfall into the +background; and as the whole was of such extent as to be taken in at one +glance, the effect was striking beyond anything of the kind I ever witnessed. +It is but natural to suppose that we had no desire to hurry through such a glen +as this; and seeded not the additional motive which the weariness of our +donkeys afforded, to persuade us to a temporary halt. Giving the animals, +therefore, to the care of their owners, we dismounted, and went into some of +the cabins, the inhabitants of which appeared to be as simple as the situation +of their abodes had prepared us to expect. The men were all goatherds, and the +women seemed to be as idle as their countrywomen in Portugal, sitting at the +doors of their houses, surrounded by groups of half-naked and filthy-looking +children. If it be fair to judge from their dress and the furniture of their +hovels, they were miserably poor, though perfectly contented; they did not ask +us for money, but astonished, I suppose, at the glaring colour of our coats, +they were very inquisitive to know who we were and whence we had come. The +English, the French, and the Portuguese seemed to be the only three nations of +whose existence they had any knowledge; and having been assured, in answer to +their first question, that we were not French, they immediately added, +“Then you must be English.” They did not appear, however, to be +without some degree of cunning, for as long as we paused in replying to their +query, they were silent; but no sooner had we answered in the negative than +they launched forth into the most violent invectives against the French; +convincing us that the animosity of the mother-country towards its barbarous +invaders was not more implacable than that of the colonies. +</p> + +<p> +Having loitered away half an hour in this romantic spot, and distributed a few +dollars among its inhabitants, we remounted our steeds and continued our +journey. The remainder of the ride carried us through scenery very similar to +what we had already passed; the only difference was, that the nearer we +approached to Ponto del Gada the more frequent became the spots of cultivation, +the width and smoothness of the road improving in proportion; till at last, +when we had attained the brow of an eminence, from whence the town with its +port and bay were distinguishable, we looked down upon an extensive valley, +richly covered with fields of standing corn. Quickening our pace, we soon +entered the capital of St. Michael’s, and were conducted by the drivers +to a good hotel, kept by an Englishwoman of the name of Currie, where we found +every accommodation which we could desire, at a very moderate expense. +</p> + +<h3>PONTO DEL GADA</h3> + +<p> +As we had started at an early hour from Villa Franca, the clocks were just +striking ten when we alighted at Mrs. Currie’s hotel; consequently, there +was a long day yet before us, in which we might see everything that was to be +seen in the place. Having discharged our muleteers, therefore, who seemed +overjoyed at the receipt of one dollar a-piece, swallowed a hasty breakfast, +and made ourselves somewhat comfortable, we lost no time in setting out upon a +stroll of examination and discovery. +</p> + +<p> +Ponto del Gada is, on the whole, rather a neat town, containing from twelve to +fourteen thousand inhabitants; but being built, especially in the outskirts, +without much regard to compactness, it covers more ground than many places of +double the amount in population. It stands upon a little bay, formed by two +projecting headlands, and can boast of a tolerable harbour excellent roadstead. +In its immediate vicinity the country a more uniformly level than any I had yet +observed; the vale extending to the distance of four or five miles on every +side, had ending in an amphitheatre of low green hills, which resemble +appearance, the downs as they are seen from Eastbourne in Sussex. The whole of +this flat is in a state of high cultivation, being cleared, perhaps too +completely, of wood, and portioned off into different fields and parks by +hedges and stone walls. Judging from the appearance of the crops, I should +conceive that the soil was here of some depth, as well as fertility, the whole +valley being covered with wheat, barley, and Indian corn. And in truth, if the +aspect of the country beyond the downs, where rocks tower one above another in +rude and barren grandeur, furnish a legitimate criterion by which to determine +respecting the general fertility of the island, I should be almost tempted to +believe that the whole industry of its people has been expended upon this spot, +simply because it was the only one capable of rewarding it. I was assured, +however, by the natives, that such is not the case; and that, in the interior, +and towards the opposite coast, the rugged magnificence of mountain scenery +gives place to a more profitable though less picturesque champaign. +</p> + +<p> +The principal streets of Ponto del Gada are paved, and kept once cool and clean +by a. constant sprinkling of water, which is the business of two or three men +stationed at pumps within obtain distance of one another, to scatter over them. +Of the by-streets little can be said in praise, they being, like those of other +Portuguese towns, composed of mean cottages, unpaved, and extremely dirty. +There is, however, an air of elegance given to the town, particularly when +looked at from a distance, by the intermixture of orange-groves among the +houses; the largest of these, wherever they happen to stand, being, in general, +surrounded by extensive gardens, all of which are abundantly stocked with that +graceful and odoriferous plant. Add to this the number of towers and spires +with which its numerous churches and convents are supplied, and the first +aspect of the whole may be conceived to be extremely striking and imposing. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as we had taken a hurried survey of the streets, the next object of +attention was the religious houses. In these there was but little to admire, +the architecture being of the plainest kind, and even the chapels as much +wanting in ornament as can be imagined. There were, indeed, in most of them +some trifling attempts at carved work and gilding upon the roof, a little +stained glass, neither rich nor ancient, in the windows, and a few tawdry +pictures suspended above the altars; but the general appearance was decidedly +that of buildings which did not even aim at beauty or grandeur. The monks we +found a good-natured, obliging set of men, very willing to give us any +information in their power; by one of whom we were fortunate enough to be +conducted through a convent of Augustine friars. Into their mode of living it +is not to be supposed that we could obtain much insight. It seemed, however, to +be less indolent than that of some convents which we had visited in the old +country, and approached proportionably nearer to a college life among +ourselves; though it must be admitted that the fellows and undergraduates of +Oxford and Cambridge have a better notion of both comfort and elegance than the +Augustine friars of St. Michael’s. Of the nuns we of course saw nothing, +excepting through the grates. We found them full of curiosity, and eager to +know as much as they could learn of the world from which they were excluded; +but quite as fond of flirting as any set of young ladies at a boarding-school. +It was amusing to observe their mode of begging, for all the nuns in this part +of the world are licensed beggars. The younger and fairer members of the +sisterhood came to the grate first; chatted, sung, and presented us with +artificial flowers, and then retiring, made way for the old and the ugly, who +requested a little money for the good of our souls and their bodies. To +solicitations thus expressed it was impossible to turn a deaf ear, and the +consequence was, that we soon discovered it to be quite as expensive an +amusement to flirt with a nun, as with any other belle in London or elsewhere. +</p> + +<p> +Besides the churches and convents, amounting in all to not fewer than nine, +there is a fort erected for the protection of the harbour, which we likewise +endeavoured to see, but were prevented by the sentinel at the gate, who refused +us admittance. The disappointment, however, was not great, as it was easy to +perceive, from its outward appearance, that the fort could possess few points +worthy of observation; and, indeed, we attributed the reluctance evinced in +admitting strangers to its utter uselessness as a place of defence. +</p> + +<p> +To describe all this occupies but a small portion of time; but to see it was +the laborious employment of an entire day. Wearied out at length with my +exertions, and not feeling much rewarded, at least for the latter part of my +trouble, I returned in the evening to the hotel, where, as the ships were still +at anchor, taking on board water and fresh provisions, I ventured to spend the +night. +</p> + +<p> +Having thus discovered that there was little in the works of art, and a great +deal in those of nature, throughout St. Michael’s, to interest the +traveller, a friend and myself determined to set off next morning on a visit to +the volcano. With this design we ordered asses, for asses are the only animals +for hire, to be in readiness by daybreak; and finding them in waiting at the +time appointed, we took a guide with us and pushed forward in the direction of +the dark smoke. The mountain with its crater being distinctly visible from +Ponto del Gada, we took it for granted the distance between the two places +could not exceed twelve or fourteen miles; but, on inquiring of our guide, we +learned that the nearest road would carry us at least twenty-seven miles from +the town. This was at once a startling and unpleasant piece of intelligence, +affecting our arrangements in no trifling degree. To proceed was dangerous, +because, mounted as we were, to go and return in one day was impossible; and, +if we remained so far from the shipping during the night, the fleet might sail +before we should be able to get back. On the the other hand, to give up our +design, and quit a country where a volcano was to be seen, without seeing it, +appeared rather a mortifying prospect. After weighing for a few minutes the +chances on both sides, I shall not say with the utmost impartiality, curiosity +finally prevailed over apprehension; and, in order to prevent any further +repentance and consequent change of mind, we put our donkeys into a gallop, and +hurried on as fast as they could carry us. But the speed of the asses and our +own venturous determination proved, after all, equally unavailing; for, on +gaining the summit of the downs, and looking back upon the fleet, we beheld, to +our great sorrow, the signal for sailing displayed at the topmasts of all the +ships. Mortified at our disappointment, and at the same time rejoicing that we +had got no farther on our journey, we were compelled to turn our asses’ +heads, and to retrace our steps towards Ponto del Gada, where we found +everything in the bustle and confusion of a re-embarkation. The beach was +covered with sailors, soldiers, bullocks, and casks of fresh water, hurrying, +and being hurried, indiscriminately into the boats which had arrived to take +them off. The townspeople were running about upon the strand, some offering +their skiffs to convey the officers on board the ships, some helping to swing +the bullocks into the barges, and others shouting and hallooing apparently from +the disinterested love of noise. In short, it was a scene of great liveliness +and bustle, perhaps rather too much so to be agreeable. +</p> + +<p> +Seeing this universal eagerness to reach the fleet, we, like the rest, threw +ourselves into the first boat we could approach, and in a short time found +ourselves on board our own ship. But here a very tantalizing piece of +intelligence awaited us, for we learnt that, in spite of all this show of +preparation, the Admiral had not begun to weigh anchor; and that no intention +of moving was entertained, at soonest, before the morrow. The opportunity, +however, was lost; it could not be recovered, and we were obliged to submit as +cheerfully as we could, though it was impossible to help regretting, what had +at first been a source of consolation, the circumstance of our having caught a +view of the signal at the time we did. But, as the event proved, all had turned +out for the best; for on the day following the signal was again repeated; and +by way of giving additional weight to it, the Admiral began to shake loose his +topsails. Nor did it prove, like that of yesterday, a false alarm. By mid-day, +the victualling and watering being complete, the fleet immediately began to get +under weigh; and, as the wind blew fair and fresh, before dark the mountains of +St. Michael’s could be seen only like a thin vapour in the sky. Next +morning nothing but the old prospect of air and water met the gaze, as we stood +our course, at a rapid rate, towards Bermuda. +</p> + +<h3>AT SEA</h3> + +<p> +The voyage from St. Michael’s to Bermuda occupied the space of almost an +entire month, the first having been lost sight of on the 27th of June, and it +being the 24th of July before the low shores of the last could be discerned. It +was, however, a passage of more interest and productive of more variety than +that from Bordeaux to the Azores. We had now arrived within the influence of +the tropical climate, and were not unfrequently amused with water-spouts, and +other phenomena peculiar to warm regions. The flying-fish, likewise, and its +pursuer, the dolphin, afforded at least something to look at; whilst many idle +hours were whiled away in attempts to catch or strike the latter with harpoons. +In these we were not always unsuccessful, consequently we enjoyed several +opportunities of watching the change of colour which that fish undergoes whilst +it is dying; and though the description generally given of it is certainly +indebted in some degree to the imagination of voyagers, I must confess that the +transitions from blue to purple, and from purple to green, with all their +intermediate shades, are extremely beautiful. When the fish is in the water, it +is by no means remarkable for brilliancy of hue, and as soon as it is dead it +returns to its original colour—a dingy sea-green; but whilst it is +floundering and flapping upon the deck, it is impossible to say what is its +real appearance, so many and so different are the hues which it assumes. Nor +did we escape without the occasional occurrence of a less agreeable species of +variety; I mean squalls, thunder-storms, and whirlwinds. As we approached +Bermuda, indeed, these became too frequent to excite any interest beyond an +earnest desire that they would cease: but while we were yet a good way off, and +the incident rare, they were witnessed with more of admiration than terror. +</p> + +<p> +Besides these amusements with which nature supplied us, we were not backward in +endeavouring to amuse ourselves. Being now pretty well accustomed to the +atmosphere of a ship, we began to consider ourselves at home, and to give balls +and other public entertainments through the fleet. One of these I shall take +leave to describe, because I am sure it must interest from its novelty. On the +19th of July, at an early hour in the morning, a signal was made from the Royal +Oak, that the Admiral would be happy to see the officers of the fleet on board +his ship that evening. Boats were accordingly sent off from the different +vessels, loaded with visitors; and on mounting the gangway, a stage, with a +green curtain before it, was discovered upon the quarter-deck. The whole of the +deck, from the poop to the mainmast, was hung round with flags, so as to form a +moderate-sized theatre; and the carronades were removed from their port-holes, +in order to make room for the company. Lamps were suspended from all parts of +the rigging and shrouds, casting a brilliant light upon this singular +playhouse; and the crew, arrayed in their best attire, crowded the booms, +yards, and fore part of the deck; whilst the space from the mainmast to the +foot of the stage was set with benches for the more genteel part of the +audience. +</p> + +<p> +At seven o’clock the curtain drew up, and discovered a scene painted with +such taste as would not have disgraced any theatre in London. The play was the +‘Apprentice,’ with the ‘Mayor of Garret’ as an +afterpiece, performed by the officers of the ship and of the artillery, and +went off in high style, applauded, as it deserved to be applauded, with the +loudest acclamations. The quarter-deck of a British line-of-battle ship has +often enough been a stage for the exhibition of bloody tragedies; but to +witness a comedy and a farce upon that stage, and in the middle of the Atlantic +Ocean, was delightful from its very singularity. When the performance came to +an end, the stage was knocked down, the seats removed, and everything cleared +for dancing. The music was excellent, being composed of the band of the Royal +Oak; and the ball was opened by Admiral Malcolm and the Honourable Mrs. +Mullens, in a country dance, followed by as many couples as the space would +permit; the greater number of officers dancing, as necessity required, with one +another. In this amusement every person, from the Admiral and General, down to +the youngest ensign and midshipman, joined, laying aside for the time all +restraint or form of discipline; and having kept it up with great spirit till +considerably beyond midnight, a blue light was hoisted as a signal for the +different boats to come off for the strangers, and each returned to his own +ship highly gratified with the evening’s entertainment. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap06"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<h3>BERMUDA</h3> + +<p> +By employing ourselves in this manner, and by keeping up what is emphatically +called a good heart, we contrived to pass out time agreeably enough. As often +as the weather would permit, and the fleet lay well together, we made parties +of pleasure to the different ships; when the wind was too high, and the fleet +too much scattered for such proceedings, we remained at home, and amused +ourselves in the best way we could. Some of the captains, and ours among the +number, were possessed of very tolerable libraries, the doors of which they +politely threw open for the benefit of their military guests; and thus, by +reading, fishing, and boating, we were enabled to make head, with some success, +against the encroachments of ennui. It must be confessed, however, that in +spite of strenuous efforts to the contrary, that determined enemy of all idle +persons was beginning to gain ground upon us, when, about mid-day on the 24th +of July, a cry of land was heard from the mast-head. All eyes were immediately +turned in the direction to which the sailor pointed, and as wind blew fair and +moderately fresh, no great length of time before the same object was +distinguishable from the deck. A signal was immediately hoisted for a pilot, +who lost no time in coming off to us; and before dark we were at anchor +opposite to the tanks in Bermuda. +</p> + +<p> +The appearance of Bermuda is altogether as different from that of St. +Michael’s as one thing can be from another. Whilst the last, with its +lofty mountains and bold shores, can be seen at the distance of many leagues, a +ship must be within a few miles of the first before the slightest symptom of +land is discernible. On this account it is that mariners find greater +difficulty in making Bermuda than perhaps any other island or continent in the +known world; the most experienced seaman frequently sailing past it, and not a +few suffering shipwreck every year upon its numerous shoals and rocks. For not +only is the land itself low, and thus apt to be run against by vessels which +may have approached in stormy weather too near to put about, but for many miles +round, reefs of sunken rocks stretch out into the sea in every direction; +insomuch, that even the approach to the principal anchorage is no more than a +narrow channel between two reefs, in many places scarcely exceeding a mile or a +mile and a half in width. The navigation, even in calm weather, is therefore +attended with considerable danger; the idea of which is greatly heightened by +the remarkable clearness of the water and the peculiar brightness of the rocks. +In some places this is so much the case, that the bottom may be seen at the +depth of six or seven fathoms; whilst the aspect of the reefs which lie on each +side, as you steer towards the anchorage, is such, as almost to persuade you, +contrary to the evidence of reason, that a man might leap upon them from a boat +without incurring the danger of being wet above the knees. Yet these very reefs +are seldom covered with less than six, and sometimes with fourteen and fifteen +feet of water. +</p> + +<p> +Low as they are, the shores of Bermuda are nevertheless extremely beautiful. +They are covered with cedar, a tree which here, at least, seldom exceeds the +height of twenty feet, and from which, before the sun has risen and after he +has set, the land breeze comes loaded with the most delicious perfume. Under +the wood there grows a rich short turf, apparently struggling to spread itself +over the chalky rocks, of which the entire island, or rather islands, seem to +be composed; and, as the houses of the better orders are chiefly built within +reach of the cool air from the water, they, with their little lawns and +gardens, produce a lively and pleasing effect. +</p> + +<p> +As darkness had come on before the ship could be properly moored, no boats were +permitted to leave her that night; but at an early hour next morning I embraced +the first opportunity of going on shore. To reach St. George’s, the +capital of the colony, you are obliged to row for several miles up a narrow +frith called the ferry, immediately on entering which the scenery becomes in +the highest degree picturesque. Though still retaining its character of low, +the ground on each side looks as if it were broken into little swells, the +whole of them beautifully shaded with groves of cedar, and many of them crowned +with country-houses as white as the drifted snow. But the fact is, that this +appearance of hill and dale is owing to the prodigious number of islands which +compose the cluster; there being in all, according to vulgar report, not fewer +than three hundred and sixty-five, of which the largest exceeds not seven or +eight miles in diameter. Yet it is only when you follow what at first you are +inclined to mistake for a creek or the mouth of a river, that you discover the +absence of valleys from between these hills; and even then you are more apt to +fancy yourself upon the bosom of a lake studded with islets, than steering amid +spots of earth which stand, each of them distinct, in the middle of the +Atlantic Ocean. +</p> + +<p> +In the town of St. George’s there is nothing to be seen at all worthy of +record. It consists of about fifty or sixty houses, the glare from which, as +they are all built of the chalk stone, is extremely dazzling to the eyes. It is +called the capital, because here the court-house stands and the magisterial +sittings are held; but in point of size, and, as far as I could learn, in every +other respect, it is greatly inferior to Hamilton, another town at the opposite +extremity of the cluster, which I did not visit. A little way from St. +George’s, and on the summit of a bare rock, stand the barracks, fitted up +for the accommodation of a thousand men; and about a mile and a half beyond +them are the tanks, well worth the notice of travellers. The object of this +work is to catch and preserve the rain—a measure which the total +deficiency of fresh springs throughout the colony renders absolutely necessary. +There are, indeed, wells dug upon the beach, but the water in these is nothing +more than sea-water, filtered and rendered brackish in making its way through +the sand, and by no means fit to be used, at least in any quantity. To supply +this deficiency, the bad effects of which were experienced in the unhealthiness +of many of the crews upon the American station, Government was induced to build +these tanks; consequently the water contained in them is the property of the +king, and none but king’s ships, with the troops in garrison, are +permitted, except in extreme cases, to be supplied from thence. +</p> + +<p> +The climate of Bermuda has been extolled by many, and among the rest by Mr. +Moore in his odes and epistles, as salubrious and delightful. It is possible +that he, and the rest of its eulogists, may have visited these islands at a +season of the year different from that in which I visited them, but to me the +heat was beyond measure oppressive. Lying, as they do, under the influence of a +vertical sun, and abounding in all directions with cliffs of white chalk, it is +obvious that the constant reflection of the sun’s rays thereby occasioned +must be quite overpowering. If these panegyrists mean to say, that as long as +you contrive to keep in the shade, and take care not to stir abroad till after +sunset, you will find the Bermudas deserving of their title of summer-islands, +then I will agree with them; but I believe there is no man who ever walked the +street of St. George’s at noon, or any other spot where the sun-beams +could reach him, that did not consider the heat as anything rather than +temperate. +</p> + +<p> +But whatever may be thought of the climate, there can, I think, be but one +opinion as to the soil. It is generally admitted that there is no more +unproductive spot of earth upon the face of the deep than Bermuda. The only +animals which appear to thrive are the goat and the duck; the cedar and a few +calabash-trees are the only wood, and, except the most common kinds of +vegetables, such as cabbages, onions, and sweet potatoes; I know of hardly +another thing brought to perfection, even in the gardens. The fruits which a +stranger may meet with are no doubt delicious, since among them he will find +the shaddock and the pine-apple; but for these, as well as for almost all their +other comforts and luxuries, the Bermudians are indebted to the continent of +America or to the West Indies. Whether this be owing to the natural sterility +of the soil, or to the extreme indolence of the inhabitants, I cannot pretend +to decide; though I should be inclined to suspect that both were, in some +degree, to blame; but its consequences are felt by all visitors, in a very +sensible manner, every article of living being here sold for thrice its +intrinsic value. That provisions should be dear in this country cannot +surprise, when it is considered that this small colony is the general depot and +place of resort for repairs and stores to a large proportion of the British +navy, scattered along the coast of America; but, surely, if the natives were a +little more industrious, they might afford to sell their goods at a cheaper +rate, and at the same time secure an equal, if not a greater profit. But their +indolence is beyond all conception, and can be attributed only to, what I +believe is its real cause, the facility with which they acquire fortunes, from +men who are necessitated to give whatever they demand for the most trifling +article. The poorest and meanest freeman upon the island never dreams of +applying his own hand, or even his own head, to the cultivation of the ground; +and being abundantly supplied with negro slaves, they leave everything, even +the care of providing necessaries for themselves, to the industry of that +ill-used race. I may perhaps be considered as expressing myself with too much +severity towards the Bermudians, but, in truth, I repeat only what I was told +by some of themselves; nor did I, from my own personal observation, discover +any cause to question the veracity of my informers. +</p> + +<p> +In the praise bestowed by Mr. Moore upon the beauty of these regions, I do, +however, most cordially join. There is something bewitchingly pretty, for +pretty is perhaps the most appropriate epithet to be used, in every one of the +many views which you may obtain from different points. The low and elegant +cedar, the green short turf, the frequent recurrence of the white and dazzling +rock, the continual rise and fall of the numerous small islands, but above all, +the constant intermingling of land and water, seem more like a drawing of fairy +land than a reality. There is nothing grand, nothing imposing, or calculated to +excite any feeling bordering upon the awful, throughout the whole; but it is +soft, gentle, and exquisitely pleasing. +</p> + +<p> +Having spent the day at St. George’s, I returned on board to sleep; and +on the morrow removed, with my baggage, to a transport then lying at anchor +within the ferry, which was thenceforth to be my head-quarters. Thither my +friend Grey also removed, and as our ship was well stored, and its commander +civil and accommodating, we had no reason to complain of any suffering +consequent upon our change of residence. +</p> + +<p> +It will be readily believed that a very small portion of our time was now +wasted on board ship; for economy’s sake we usually slept there, because +at the inn the charge for beds, as well as for everything else, was enormous; +but all the hours of daylight were devoted to rowing round the different +islands, and climbing the different eminences, from whence the most extensive +prospects were to be obtained. Among other curiosities, we were informed of two +caves in one of the little isles, distant about four or five miles from the +place where we lay. Being assured that they were highly deserving of notice, we +determined to visit them; and setting off one evening for that purpose, we +reached the spot which had been pointed out to us a little before dark. We +fastened the boat to the stump of a tree, and were proceeding towards the +caves, when a fine manly voice, singing one of the Irish melodies, attracted +our attention. Being rather curious to discover who, in this extramundane +place, had learnt to sing with so much taste, we followed the direction of the +sound, till we came upon a party sitting under the shade of a tent, and, like +ourselves, enjoying the cool of the evening; on perceiving us, some of them +came forward, and the satisfaction was mutual when we recognised one another as +old acquaintances. They urged us to relinquish our design, and to partake of +their good cheer, with which, as the hour was late, we had small reluctance in +complying; and it was agreed, that instead of going on without proper guides, +and at so unseasonable a time, we should breakfast together at the same spot in +the morning, and proceed in a body to examine the caverns. Here, therefore, we +remained till the moon had risen, when we returned to our boat, and sailed back +to the ship. +</p> + +<p> +Next morning everything was prepared for the expedition, but a heavy squall +coming on, prevented us from setting out as early as we had intended; as soon, +however, as this blew over, we took to our boat, and reached the place of +rendezvous in time to share the remains of a good breakfast which our friends +had prepared for themselves and us. When our meal was finished, we supplied +ourselves with torches from some dry branches of the calabash-tree, and, headed +by a guide, moved towards the mouth of the nearest and largest of the two +caves. We descended into this by a ladder of sixteen steps, and arrived upon a +broad ledge of rock, where we halted for a few minutes to light the torches, +and accustom our vision to the gloom; when, both of these ends being attained, +we advanced a few paces into the cave, and a sight of the most indescribable +sublimity burst upon us. The appearance was that of a huge Gothic cathedral, +having its roof supported upon pillars of spar, moulded into the most regular +shapes, and fluted and carved after the most exact models of architecture. The +roof itself was indeed too lofty to be discerned, nor could the eye penetrate +to anything like an extremity, all beyond a certain extent being wrapped in the +most profound darkness; but the flashes of light which at intervals streamed +out, as the glare of the torches fell upon pieces of spar as clear as crystal, +and the deep echo of our own voices as we spoke, inspired us with a feeling of +awe bordering upon superstition. It is in such a situation as this, that the +poverty of the mightiest monument of human art becomes conspicuous. The most +magnificent churches and abbeys, with their sculptured pillars and vaulted +ceilings, were thought of as mean in comparison of what was now before us; +indeed, I for one could not help imagining that these very churches and abbeys +had been built in humble imitation of this, which looked like a temple reared +by some beings more powerful than men. It seemed a shrine worthy of the genii +of old, while yet they were in the zenith of their glory, ere they had been +driven from their thrones and oracles of darkness by the light of Christianity. +</p> + +<p> +As we moved onward we found the sides of the cave gradually narrow upon us, and +the roof become lower and lower. There was, however, a continuance of the same +fane-like appearance to the last, though growing more and more contracted; +till, finally, we were compelled to advance one by one, and to stoop in order +to prevent our heads from coming into contact with the rock. We had proceeded +as far as it was possible to proceed with any degree of comfort, and were +informed by the guide that we were upwards of three hundred yards from the +entrance, when we found it expedient to wheel about, and to return to the open +air. But the effect of so sudden a change from darkness to light was +exceedingly disagreeable; insomuch that we hastened into the smaller cave, as +well for the purpose of deferring the moment of suffering as to continue our +search after the sublime. +</p> + +<p> +The entrance to this cavern is extremely dangerous, and not to be ventured upon +without either a trusty guide or a thorough knowledge of the ground. After +descending a ladder, not quite so deep as that which leads into the larger +cave, we arrived at the brink of a fearful chasm, across which a flat stone, +about two feet in width, was laid, connecting the edges by a bridge four or +five feet in length. To what depth the chasm may reach, the guide could not +inform us; but that it is considerable we discovered by dropping a large stone, +which we could hear for some time as it dashed against the projecting edges of +the rock, and at length splashed with a tremendous echo into water. The man +maintained that the sea beat under the foundation of the island as far as the +spot where we now stood, and his story was rendered at least probable by the +number of pools of salt water which we met with in the interior of the cave. +</p> + +<p> +After having visited the larger cavern, this certainly appeared to +disadvantage; though in truth it is in its dimensions only that the one can be +pronounced inferior to the other. The spar is equally clear and proportionably +as abundant in both: the pillars are quite as regularly formed, and the lesser +has an advantage over its rival in two or three broken columns, which give to +it the semblance of a temple in ruins. There is also in this cave a strange +propinquity of salt and fresh water pools, the situation of two of which struck +me as peculiarly curious. They were divided from each other by a piece of rock +not much thicker than a man’s hand; and yet the water from the one tasted +as if it had been taken from the German Ocean, whilst that from the other was +as fresh and pleasant as possible. +</p> + +<p> +We had by this time fully gratified our curiosity, and once more ascended to +the world of sunshine, the splendour of which was at first almost +insupportable. By degrees, however, our eyes became accustomed to the change +and recovered their original tone, when we separated, each party returning to +its respective ship in high good humour with the day’s employment. +</p> + +<p> +But to dine quietly on board was no longer endurable. A tent was accordingly +carried on shore, and having sought out the most shady and agreeable nook +within a moderate distance of the vessel, our dinner was brought thither, and +we spent the evening, as we had done the morning, among the works of nature. +Here we remained till a late hour, talking over the adventures of the day, and +occasionally attempting a blind peep into futurity, till our friend the moon +having risen, we again pulled on board by her light, and lay down to dream of +sparry domes and enchanted temples. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap07"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<h3>AMERICA</h3> + +<p> +Some apology is due to the reader, whose attention has been thus long withdrawn +from other and more important matters, to follow the adventures of an humble +individual like myself. The fault, however, of which I have been guilty may be +at once repaired, when I inform him that on our arrival at Bermuda we found Sir +Alexander Cochrane, in the Tonnant, of eighty guns, waiting to receive us, and +to take the command of the whole fleet. The secret of our destination likewise, +which up to that moment had been kept, transpired almost as soon as we cast +anchor off the island; and it was publicly rumoured that our next point of +debarkation would be somewhere on the shores of the Bay of Chesapeake. Nor are +these the only interesting public occurrences of which no notice has as yet +been taken. On the 4th of June our little army was reinforced by the arrival of +the 21st Fusiliers, a fine battalion, mustering nine hundred bayonets, under +the command of Colonel Patterson. On the evening of the 29th a squadron of four +frigates and several transports appeared in the offing, which by mid-day on the +day following were all at anchor in the roads. They proved to be from the +Mediterranean, having the 21st, 29th, and 62nd Regiments on board, of which the +two latter were proceeding to join Sir George Prevost’s army in Canada, +whilst the former attached itself to that under the command of General Ross. By +this very acceptable reinforcement, our numbers were increased to upwards of +three thousand effective men, and a greater confidence in themselves, as well +as a better grounded hope of success in whatever they might undertake, was at +the same time given to the troops. +</p> + +<p> +Having already dwelt sufficiently upon my own personal Adventures at Bermuda, I +shall not waste time by a particular detail of the various preparations which +during this interval were making throughout the fleet. Stores of provisions, +fresh water, ammunition, clothing, &c., were provided, and magazines for +the future supply of the expedition established; when, on the 3rd of August, +all things being complete, the ships once more got under weigh, and stood +towards America. +</p> + +<h3>THE CHESAPEAKE</h3> + +<p> +During the whole of this day the wind was light and unsteady, consequently +little progress was made, nor did the white rocks of Bermuda disappear till +darkness concealed them; but towards morning a fresher and more favourable +breeze springing up, the rest of the voyage was performed in reasonable time, +and without the occurrence of any incident worthy of notice. The heat, indeed, +became more and more oppressive every day, and the irksomeness of renewed +confinement was more sensibly experienced from the long holiday which we had +enjoyed on shore; but, in other respects, everything returned to its former +state, till towards evening on the 14th, when a signal was made by the Admiral +that land was in sight. As yet, however, there was no appearance of it from the +deck of our transport, nor for a full half-hour could our anxious gaze be +rewarded by the slightest trace of what it sought; but at the end of that time +the low sandy point of Cape Charles began to show itself, and we rejoiced in +the prospect of a speedy release from the ennui of a seafaring life. +</p> + +<p> +The coast of America, at least in this quarter, is universally low and +uninteresting; insomuch, that for some time before the land itself can be +discerned, forests of pines appear to rise, as it were, out of the water. It is +also dangerous from the numerous shoals and sandbanks which run out in many +places to a considerable extent into the sea, and which are so formidable that +no master of a vessel, unless he chance to be particularly well acquainted with +the navigation, will venture to approach after dark. The fleet was accordingly +anchored within a few miles of the shore, but no sooner had the day begun to +break than the sails were again hoisted, and the ships, steering under the +influence of a leading wind, between the Capes Charles and Henry, stood in +gallant style up the Chesapeake. +</p> + +<p> +This noble bay is far too wide, and the land on each side too flat, to permit +any but an indistinct glimpse of the shore from the deck of a vessel which +keeps well towards the middle. On the present occasion we could distinguish +nothing, on either hand, except the tops of trees, with occasionally a windmill +or a lighthouse; but the view of our own fleet was in truth so magnificent as +to prevent any murmuring on that account. Immediately on entering, we were +joined by Admiral Cockburn with three line-of-battle ships, several frigates, +and a few sloops of war and gun-brigs, by which means the squadron could now +muster above twenty vessels entitled to display the pendant, besides an equal +if not a greater number of victuallers and transports. Nor were we strengthened +by this addition in the naval part of the expedition alone. On board these +ships was embarked a powerful reinforcement for the army, consisting of a +battalion of seven hundred marines, a hundred negroes lately armed and +disciplined, and a division of marine artillery, so that we could now calculate +on landing a corps of at least four thousand men. The spectacle was therefore +as agreeable and imposing as might be; because we could not help remembering +that this magnificent fleet was sailing in an enemy’s bay, and that it +was filled with troops for the invasion of that enemy’s country. Thus, +like a snowball, we had gathered as we went on, and from having set out a mere +handful of soldiers, were now become an army, formidable as well from its +numbers as its discipline. +</p> + +<p> +The shoals and sandbanks which abound on the outside of the bay, continue to +encumber the navigation after it is entered, and the fleet was in consequence +compelled to anchor every night. This proceeding unavoidably occasioned much +delay. The first day’s sail carried us only to the mouth of the James +river, and the second to the mouth of the Potomac; but, on both occasions, we +brought up at too great a distance from the beach to permit perfect or distinct +view of either of these rivers. Opposite to the latter, indeed, we remained for +a night and a considerable part of the following day, and the sky being +remarkably clear, we saw something more of it than we had been able to see of +the other river. It appeared to be a fine piece of water making its way through +the centre of huge forests, and, though the current is in reality strong, +flowing on without any apparent motion. But it would have been impossible to +trace its course, even had we been nearer to the shore, above a few miles, on +account of its numerous windings, the first of which, overshadowed as it is +with wood, shuts it out from further observation. By continuing here so long, +we had begun to conjecture that a landing somewhere on the banks of this river +was in contemplation. In this, however, we were deceived, for about one +o’clock the fleet was again under sail, and moving towards the Patuxent, +a river which empties itself into the bay, several miles above the Potomac. +</p> + +<h3>THE PATUXENT.</h3> + +<p> +It was singular enough, that the ships had scarcely begun to lift their +anchors, when the sky, which had hitherto continued clear and serene, became +suddenly darkened and overcast with heavy clouds: and the water, which before +had been as smooth and bright as a mirror, began to rise in black waves tipped +with foam, though there was not a breath of air to fill the sails. Hurricanes +are, I believe, not unfrequent in this part of the world, and it was expected +that these changes in the sea and sky foreboded the arrival of one; but they +passed by without producing any violent results, and when we brought up, which +was done in the evening, the clouds had dispersed, and the water was again like +a glassy lake. +</p> + +<p> +The 18th of August had now arrived, and as yet we had advanced no farther than +to the mouth of the Patuxent. There we lay, as we had done the day before, +anxiously expecting a breeze; till about noon, the wind beginning to blow fair, +the fleet entered the river and made its way slowly and majestically against +the stream. The voyage soon became picturesque and interesting in the highest +degree. Fields of Indian corn, with meadows of the most luxuriant pasture, +stretched along the margin of the stream on either hand; whilst the neat wooden +houses of the settlers, all of them painted white, and surrounded with orchards +and gardens, presented a striking contrast to the boundless forests which +formed a background to the scene. Of the prodigious extent and gloomy +appearance of these forests, it is impossible for any language to convey an +adequate conception. There is nothing, at least nothing which I have seen, in +the Old World, at all resembling or to be compared with them; and hemming in, +as they do, on every side, the tiny spots of cultivation, they certainly convey +no very enlarged idea of the power of human industry. The cleared fields on the +banks of the Patuxent, for example, could in no direction measure above half a +mile across,—in many places their breadth fell short of that, from the +river to the woods; and then all was one vast forest, through which no eye +could penetrate, nor any traveller venture to seek his way. We were, as may be +imagined, greatly taken by scenery so novel; and we continued to gaze upon it +with the liveliest interest, till our attention was drawn away to other and +more important matters. +</p> + +<h3>ST. BENEDICT’S.</h3> + +<p> +We had not proceeded many miles from the river’s mouth when a telegraph +from the Admiral gave orders for the troops to be in readiness to land at a +moment’s notice. Everything was forthwith put in a state of forwardness; +provisions for three days, that is to say, three pounds of pork, with two +pounds and a half of biscuit, were cooked and given to the men; the +cartouch-boxes were supplied with fresh ammunition, and the arms and +accoutrements handed out. The fleet, however, continued to move on, without +showing any inclination to bring to; till at length, having ascended to the +distance of ten leagues from the bay, the ships of the line began to take the +ground; and in a little while after, even the frigates could proceed no +farther. But by this time the sun had set, and darkness was coming on; +consequently, there was no possibility, for that day, of getting the troops on +shore without much confusion, if not danger. All therefore remained quiet for +the night, with this exception, that the soldiers were removed from the large +ships into such as drew least water; which running up as high as prudence would +permit, under convoy of the gun-brigs and sloops of war, there cast anchor. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as the dawn began to appear, on the morning of the 19th, there was a +general stir throughout the fleet. A gun-brig had already taken her station +within a hundred and fifty yards of a village called St. Benedict’s, on +the left bank of the river, where it was determined that the disembarkation +should be effected. Her broadside was turned towards the shore, and her loaded +with grape and round shot, were pointed at the beach, to cover the landing of +the boats; and being moored and aft with spring-cables, she was altogether as +manageable as if she had been under sail. The rest of the ships were several +miles lower down the stream, some of them being aground the distance of four +leagues from this point; but the boats were quickly hoisted out from every one +of them, and the river as covered in a trice with a well-manned and warlike +flotilla. The disembarkation was conducted with the greatest regularity and +dispatch. Though the stream ran strong against them, and some of them were +obliged to row fourteen or fifteen miles backwards and forwards, so strenuously +did the sailors exert themselves, that by three o’clock in the afternoon +the whole army was landed, and occupied a strong position about two miles above +the village. +</p> + +<p> +From what I have stated respecting the gun-brig, it will be seen that all +things were in readiness to meet and repel opposition, should such be offered. +Her broadside being pointed directly towards the village, whilst it hindered +the enemy from bringing down troops in that direction, gave to our people an +opportunity of forming, and being able to meet, in good order, whatever force +might be posted to check their advance up the country. Had a few pieces of +artillery been mounted, indeed, upon the high ground, afterwards taken +possession of by us, some execution might have been done upon the boats as they +drew towards the beach; but even that would have been trifling, because, unless +they had had leisure to heat their shot, no artillery, in the open country +could have long stood before the fire of even a gun-brig, armed as this was for +the occasion with long thirty-two pounders. Each boat-load of soldiers, +likewise, drew up the moment they stepped on shore, forming line without any +regard to companies or battalions; whilst parties were instantly dispatched to +reconnoitre, and to take possession of every house, as well as to line every +hedge, in front of the shore where their comrades were arriving. But these +preparations, though no more than common prudence required, were unnecessary; +since there was not only no opposition to the landing, but, apparently, no +enemy within many miles of the place. +</p> + +<p> +So much time was unavoidably expended in establishing the different regiments +on the ground allotted to them, in bringing up the hospital and commissariat +stores, and arranging the materiel, that when all things were ready, the day +appeared too far spent to permit an advance into a country, of the nature and +military situation of which we were of course ignorant. The afternoon was +accordingly devoted to a proper distribution of the force; which was divided +into three brigades, in the following order:— +</p> + +<p> +The first, or light brigade, consisted of the 85th, the light infantry +companies of the 4th, 21st, and 44th regiments, with the party of disciplined +negroes, and a company of marines, amounting in all to about eleven hundred +men; to the command of which Colonel Thornton, of the 85th regiment, was +appointed. +</p> + +<p> +The second brigade, composed of the 4th and 44th regiments, which mustered +together fourteen hundred and sixty bayonets, was intrusted to the care of +Colonel Brooke, of the 44th; and the third, made up of the 21st, and the +battalion of marines, and equalling in number the second brigade, was commanded +by Colonel Patterson, of the 21st. The whole of the infantry may, therefore, be +estimated at four thousand and twenty men. Besides these, there were landed +about a hundred artillery-men, and an equal number of drivers; but for want of +horses to drag them, no more than one six-pounder and two small three-pounder +guns were brought on shore. Except those belonging to the General and +staff-officers, there was not a single horse in the whole army. To have taken +on shore a large park of artillery would have been, under such circumstances, +absolute folly, indeed, the pieces which were actually landed, proved in the +end of very little service, and were drawn by seamen sent from the different +ships for the purpose. The sailors, thus employed, may be rated at a hundred, +and those occupied in carrying stores, ammunition, and other necessaries, at a +hundred more; and thus, by adding these, together with fifty sappers and +miners, to the above amount, the whole number of men landed at St. +Benedict’s may be computed at four thousand five hundred. +</p> + +<p> +This little army was posted upon a height which rises at the distance of two +miles from the river. In front was a valley, cultivated for some way, and +intersected with orchards; at the further extremity of which the advanced +piquets took their ground; pushing forward a chain of sentinels to the very +skirts of the forest. The right of the position was protected by a farm-house +with its enclosure and outbuildings, and the left rested upon the edge of the +hill, or rather mound, which there abruptly ended. On the brow of the hill, and +about the centre of the line were placed the cannon, ready loaded, and having +lighted fusees beside them; whilst the infantry bivouacked immediately under +the ridge, or rather upon the slope of the hill which looked towards the +shipping, in order to prevent their disposition from being seen by the enemy; +should they come down to attack. But as we were now in a country where we could +not calculate upon being safe in rear, any more than in front, the chain of +piquets was carried round both flanks, and so arranged, that no attempt could +be made to get between the army and the fleet, without due notice, and time +given to oppose and prevent it. Everything, in short, was arranged with the +utmost skill, and every chance of surprise provided against; but the night +passed in quiet, nor was an opportunity afforded of evincing the utility of the +very soldier-like dispositions which had been made. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap08"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<h3>NOTTINGHAM</h3> + +<p> +Next morning the troops, as is customary during a state of active warfare, were +under arms an hour before daylight, and remained in position till after the sun +had risen. It was then confidently expected that the column would be put in +motion, though in what direction it was to proceed, or what was the object of +the descent, none but the General himself appeared to know. A rumour, indeed, +prevailed, that a flotilla of gun-boats upon the Patuxent, commanded by the +American Commodore Barney, was the point of attack; and that while the land +force advanced up the river to prevent their retreat, armed boats from the +fleet were to engage them in front. That such was in reality the primary object +of the landing, I have every reason to believe, though circumstances afterwards +occurred to bring about a change in the plan of operations. Into these, +however, I shall not now enter, because they are in no way, connected with the +present stage of my narrative, but shall merely observe, that in their +expectations of an immediate advance the troops were disappointed. Whether it +was that the arrangements had not been completed, or that intelligence +respecting the state of the country and the enemy’s preparations was +wanting, I do not know; but the regiments returned to the ground which they had +occupied during the night, and everything resumed the same face which it had +worn on the evening before. +</p> + +<p> +In this state affairs continued till four o’clock in the afternoon, when +the General suddenly made his appearance in the camp, the bugles sounded, and +the regiments formed in order for marching. Nor did many minutes elapse before +the word was given, and the army began to move, taking the direction of +Nottingham, a town situated on the river, where it was understood that the +flotilla lay at anchor. The march was conducted with the same caution and good +order that had marked the choice of ground for encamping and the disposition of +the troops in position. The advanced-guard, consisting of three companies of +infantry, led the way. These, however, were preceded by a section of twenty +men, moving before them at the distance of a hundred yards; and even these +twenty were but the followers of two files, sent forward to prevent surprise, +and to give warning of the approach of the enemy. Parallel with the head of the +three companies marched the flank patrols; parties of forty or fifty men, +which, extending in files from each side of the road, swept the woods and +fields to the distance of nearly half a mile. After the advanced guard, leaving +an interval of a hundred or a hundred and fifty yards, came the light brigade; +which, as well as the advance, sent out flankers to secure itself against +ambuscades. Next to it, again, marched the second brigade, moving steadily on, +and leaving the skirmishing and reconnoitring to those in front; then came the +artillery, consisting, as I have already stated, of one six and two +three-pounder guns, drawn by seamen; and last of all came the third brigade, +leaving a detachment at the same distance from the rear of the column, as the +advanced guard was from its front. +</p> + +<p> +In moving through an enemy’s country, the journeys of an army will, +except under particular circumstances, be regulated by the nature of the ground +over which it passes: thus, though eight, ten, or even twelve miles may be +considered as a short day’s march, yet if at the end of that space an +advantageous position occur (that is, a piece of ground well defended by +natural or accidental barriers, and at the same time calculated for the +operations of that species of force of which the army may be composed), it +would be the height of imprudence to push forward, merely because a greater +extent of country might be traversed without fatiguing the troops. On the other +hand, should an army have proceeded eighteen, twenty, or even twenty-five +miles, without the occurrence of any such position, nothing except the prospect +of losing a large proportion of his men from weariness ought to induce a +general to stop, until he has reached some spot at least more tenable than the +rest. Our march to-day was, upon this principle, extremely short, the troops +halting when they had arrived at a rising ground distant not more than six +miles from the point whence they set out; and having stationed the piquets, +planted the sentinels, and made such other arrangements as the case required, +fires were lighted, and the men were suffered to lie down. +</p> + +<p> +It may seem strange, but it is nevertheless true, that during this short march +of six miles a greater number of soldiers dropped out of the ranks, and fell +behind from fatigue, than I recollect to have seen in any march in the +Peninsula of thrice its duration. The fact is that the men, from having been so +long cooped up in ships, and unused to carry their baggage and arms, were +become relaxed and enervated to a degree altogether unnatural; and this, added +to the extreme sultriness of the day, which exceeded anything we had yet +experienced, quite overpowered them. The load which they carried, likewise, was +far from trifling, since, independent of their arms and sixty rounds of +ball-cartridge, each man bore upon his back a knapsack, containing shirts, +shoes, stockings, &c., a blanket, a haversack, with provisions for three +days, and a canteen or wooden keg filled with water. Under these circumstances, +the occurrence of the position was extremely fortunate, since not only would +the speedy failure of light have compelled a halt, whether the ground chanced +to be favourable or the reverse, but even before darkness had come on scarcely +two-thirds of the soldiers would have been found in their places. +</p> + +<p> +The ground upon which we bivouacked, though not remarkable for its strength, +was precisely such as might tempt a General to halt, who found his men weary +and in danger of being benighted. It was a gentle eminence, fronted by an open +and cultivated country, and crowned with two or three houses, having barns and +walled gardens attached to them. Neither flank could be said to rest upon any +point peculiarly well defended, but they were not exposed; because, by +extending or condensing the line, almost any one of these houses might be +converted into a protecting redoubt. The outposts, again, were so far arranged +differently from those of yesterday, that, instead of covering only the front +and the two extremities, they extended completely round the encampment, +enclosing the entire army within a connected chain of sentinels; and precluding +the possibility of even a single individual making his way within the lines +unperceived. +</p> + +<p> +These precautions were, however, like those of the preceding day, unnecessary; +no enemy making his appearance, even to reconnoitre: and yet it cannot be said +that the night was passed in uninterrupted quiet, for the troops had scarcely +lain down when they were disturbed by a tremendous storm of thunder and +lightning, accompanied by a heavy fall of rain. The effect of the lightning, as +it glanced for a moment upon the bivouac, and displayed the firelocks piled in +regular order, and the men stretched like so many corpses beside them, was +extremely fine. The effect of the rain, however, was not so agreeable, for, +being perfectly destitute of shelter, we were speedily wet to the skin; and the +remainder of our resting-time was rendered thereby the reverse of comfortable. +But the feeling of fretfulness, natural on such an occasion, lasted no longer +than till the day dawned, and the line of march was again formed; when their +former good-humour returning, and seasoned in some degree by the fatigues of +yesterday, the troops moved on in excellent order and in the highest spirits. +</p> + +<p> +The route to-day was different, in many respects, from that of yesterday. In +the first place, we had now got beyond the stretch of cultivation, and were +proceeding through forests of immeasurable extent; this, of itself, gave a very +different aspect to all around, because hitherto we had seen houses and fields +of corn on each side of the road, and now we could discover nothing but wild +savannahs, apparently untenanted by a single human being. In the next place, we +learnt from some of the country people, who had been impressed as guides into +our service, that numerous detached bodies of riflemen lay in ambush among the +thickets; and the very expectation of having something to do, created a degree +of excitement which, till now, we had not experienced. In consequence of that +information, the flank patrols were strengthened and commanded to extend to a +greater distance; the advanced guard marched at a greater interval from the +head of the column, and the whole army moved forward with more caution and +circumspection than had hitherto been used. +</p> + +<p> +In the course of this day’s march a little adventure occurred to myself, +which, in the illiberality of my heart, I could not but regard as strikingly +characteristic of the character of the people to whom we were now opposed, and +which, as at the time it had something in it truly comical, I cannot resist the +inclination of repeating, though aware that its title to drollery must in a +great measure be lost in the relation. Having been informed that in a certain +part of the forest a company of riflemen had passed the night, I took with me a +party of soldiers, and proceeded in the direction pointed out, with the hope of +surprising them. On reaching the place, I found that they had retired, but I +thought I could perceive something like the glitter of arms a little farther +towards the middle of the wood. Sending several files of soldiers in different +directions, I contrived to surround the spot, and then moving forward, I beheld +two men dressed in black coats, and armed with bright firelocks and bayonets, +sitting under a tree; as soon as they observed me, they started up and took to +their heels, but being hemmed in on all sides, they quickly perceived that to +escape was impossible, and accordingly stood still. I hastened towards them, +and having arrived within a few paces of where they stood, I heard the one say +to the other, with a look of the most perfect simplicity, “Stop, John, +till the gentlemen pass.” There was something so ludicrous in this +speech, and in the cast of countenance which accompanied it, that I could not +help laughing aloud; nor was my mirth diminished by their attempts to persuade +me that they were quiet country people, come out for no other purpose than to +shoot squirrels. When I desired to know whether they carried bayonets to charge +the squirrels, as well as muskets to shoot them, they were rather at a loss for +a reply; but they grumbled exceedingly when they found themselves prisoners, +and conducted as such to the column. +</p> + +<p> +But to return to the principal narrative. The army had now advanced within a +few miles of Nottingham, and the men were beginning to look forward with some +anxiety to a halt; whilst as yet nothing beyond the capture of a few stragglers +had occurred to confirm the rumours which, in the morning, and during the whole +of the march, had occasioned so much more circumspection than appeared to be +requisite. The day was likewise far spent, and, as was to be expected, the +ranks were beginning to be less carefully preserved, when a smart firing in the +wood upon the right of the road gave new life and energy to the soldiers. It +was now confidently expected that the enemy would make a stand. The column +closed its order, ready to wheel into line in a moment, and everything was on +the qui vive: but it proved to be no more than a rencounter between a party of +American riflemen and the flank patrol. After firing a few shots, the enemy +gave way, and our main body, which had continued to move on during the +skirmish, came in without the slightest opposition to the town of Nottingham. +</p> + +<p> +We found this place (a town or large village, capable of containing from a +thousand to fifteen hundred inhabitants) completely deserted. Not an individual +was to be seen in the streets, or remained in the houses; whilst the appearance +of the furniture, &c., in some places the very bread left in the ovens, +showed that it had been evacuated in great haste, and immediately before our +arrival. The town itself stands upon the banks of the Patuxent, and consists of +four short streets, two running parallel with the river, and two others +crossing them at right angles, The houses are not such as indicate the +existence of much wealth or grandeur among the owners, being in general built +of wood, and little superior to cottages; but around the village are others of +a far better description, which convey the idea of good substantial +farm-houses, a species of mansion very common in the United States. For several +miles in every direction the country was in a high state of cultivation; +though, instead of the maize and wheat which we had hitherto seen, the fields +were covered with an abundant and luxuriant crop of tobacco. This plant seems, +indeed, to be at all times the staple commodity of that district; for, besides +what was growing and unripe, we found numerous barns filled with the remains of +last year’s crop; the whole of which was, of course, seized in the name +of His Majesty King George the Third. But in the main object of our pursuit we +were disappointed. The flotilla, which had been stationed opposite to +Nottingham, retired, on our approach, higher up the stream; and we were +consequently in the situation of a huntsman who sees his hounds at fault, and +has every reason to apprehend that his game will escape. +</p> + +<h3>MARLBOROUGH</h3> + +<p> +In this posture the army continued during the night, having its right defended +by the river, and its left extending considerably beyond the town, and secured, +as usual, by a connected chain of outposts; nor was it put in motion, as had +been done the day before, as soon as there was sufficient light to distinguish +objects. There seemed, indeed, to be something like hesitation as to the course +to be pursued,—whether to follow the gun-boats, or to return to the +shipping; but, at last, the former proceeding was resolved upon, and the column +set forward about eight o’clock, in the direction of Marlborough, another +village, about ten miles beyond Nottingham. The road by which we travelled, as +well to-day as during the whole of the excursion, was remarkably good; in some +places rather heavy, from being cut through a sandy soil, but in general hard, +dusty, and, to use an expressive phrase, having a sound bottom. Running, as it +did for the most part, through the heart of thick forests, it was also well +sheltered from the rays of the sun; a circumstance which, in a climate like +this, is of no slight importance. To-day, our whole journey was of this +description, nor did we reach a single cultivated spot till we approached the +vicinity of Marlborough; when we found ourselves in a country not more fertile +than beautiful. The ground, which had been hitherto perfectly flat, was now +broken into the most graceful swells, generally cleared of wood to within a +short space of the summits, and then crowned with hoar and venerable forests. +The village itself lies in a valley formed by two green hills; the distance +from the base of one hill to the base of the other may be about two miles, the +whole of which was laid out in fields of corn, hay, and tobacco; whilst the +slopes themselves were covered with sheep, for whose support they furnished +ample means. But Marlborough is not, like an English village, compact, and +consisting of one or two lanes the houses are scattered over the plain, and +along the sides of the hills, at considerable intervals from one another, and +are all surrounded by orchards and gardens, abounding in peaches and other +fruits of the most delicious flavour. To add to the beauty of the place, a +small rivulet makes its way through the bottom, and winding round the foot of +one of these ridges, falls into the Patuxent, which flows at its back. +</p> + +<p> +During our progress to-day the same caution was observed which had been +practised yesterday. Nor was it altogether unnecessary, several bodies of the +enemy’s horse occasionally showing themselves, and what appeared to be +the rear-guard of a column of infantry evacuating Marlborough, as our advance +entered. +</p> + +<h3>MARCH TO WASHINGTON.</h3> + +<p> +There was, however, little or no skirmishing, and we were allowed to remain in +the village all night without molestation. But if we were not harassed, we were +at least startled on the march by several heavy explosions. The cause of these +we were at first unable to discover; but we soon learnt that they were +occasioned by the blowing up of the very squadron of which we were in pursuit, +and which Commodore Barney, perceiving the impossibility of preserving, +prudently destroyed, in order to prevent its falling into our hands. +</p> + +<p> +In Marlborough we remained not only during the night, but till past noon on the +following day. The hesitation which had caused the loss of a few hours at +Nottingham again interfered, and produced a delay which might have been +attended with serious consequences. At length, however, orders were given to +form, and we quitted Marlborough about two in the afternoon, taking the road to +Washington. During this day’s march there was more skirmishing than had +yet occurred. We had scarcely got above three miles from the village, when the +advanced guard fell in with a party of riflemen, who maintained a sharp contest +before they gave way. The column, however, continued to move on without +molestation, till arriving at a point where two roads meet, the one leading to +Washington, the other to Alexandria, a strong body of troops, with some +artillery, were observed upon the slope of a height opposite. The capture of +Washington was now the avowed object of our invasion; but the General, like an +experienced officer, was desirous of keeping his enemy in the dark as to his +plan of operations. Whilst the advanced guard, therefore, reinforced by two +additional companies, marched directly forward to dislodge the party from the +heights, the rest of the army wheeled to the left, taking the road which leads, +not to Washington, but to Alexandria. These movements were not lost upon the +enemy, who, observing by the dust in what direction the main body had filed +off, immediately began to retreat, without waiting for the approach of the +detachment sent against them. As they ascended the hill, however, they made a +show of halting and forming a line. Our men moved steadily on in column, +covered by one company in extended order along the front; but the enemy, having +merely thrown a few round shot with great precision among the skirmishers, +broke once again into marching order, and were quickly hid by the rising +ground. As soon as they had disappeared, the advance halted; and having +remained for about an hour on a little hill to watch their motions, turned to +the left, and followed the rest of the army, which they found advantageously +posted at a place called Woodyard. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap09"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<p> +I had almost forgotten to state that, from the first moment of our landing, the +want of cavalry, so useful in obtaining information and reconnoitring the open +country, was very sensibly felt. To remedy this evil, as far as it could by +such means be remedied, orders had been issued to catch and bring in all the +horses that were found in the fields or stables of any houses along the road; +and these orders being punctually obeyed, there were now fifty or sixty in the +camp. Upon these some of the artillery-drivers were mounted, and the command of +the troop being given to an officer of experience, it was found of great +service during the remainder of the march. +</p> + +<p> +The advanced guard having joined the main body, the whole army, with the +exception of a party which had been sent to the rear to bring up a convoy of +provisions, was now bivouacked upon a rising ground, well defended by +hedge-rows and thickets. The night, however, was not spent in as much quietness +as usual. It was late before the troops got to their ground, consequently the +piquets, for want of light, could not be posted in their customary good order, +neither had there been time to examine the country in the neighbourhood of the +position. The outposts were, therefore, kept in a state of constant anxiety by +the frequent appearance of small parties of the enemy, who hovered about, +probably with the design of cutting off stragglers, or perhaps of surprising, +if they could, some of the piquets themselves. But whatever their intentions +might be, the vigilance of the sentries contrived to render them abortive; nor +did anything occur during the night productive of serious alarm; and the +following day, being joined by the convoy which came up in safety, the column +was again in motion, hastening across the country into the highroad, which had +been deserted for no other purpose than to mislead the Americans. +</p> + +<p> +Having started on the 24th at an early hour, our march was for some time both +cool and agreeable. The road—if road it could be called—wound for +the first five miles through the heart of an immense forest, and being, in +every sense of the word, a by-path, was completely overshadowed by projecting +branches of trees, so closely interwoven, as to prevent a single sunbeam from +making its way, even at noon, within the arch. We continued to move on, +therefore, long after the sun had risen, without being sensible that there was +not a cloud in the sky to screen us from his influence; whilst a heavy moisture +continually emitted from the grass and weeds on both sides of us, produced a +coolness which, had it been less confined, would have proved extremely +pleasant. So far, then, we proceeded without experiencing any other +inconvenience than what was produced by the damp and fetid atmosphere which we +breathed; but no sooner had we begun to emerge from the woods and to enter the +open country, than an overpowering change was perceived. The sun, from which we +had been hitherto defended, now beat upon us in full force; and the dust rising +in thick masses from under our feet, without a breath of air to disperse it, +flew directly into our faces, occasioning the greatest inconvenience both to +the eyes and respiration. I have stated this at length, because I do not +recollect a period of my military life during which I suffered more severely +from heat and fatigue; and as a journey of a few miles, under such +circumstances, tells more than one of thrice the distance in a cool day and +along a firm wintry road, it is not surprising that before many hours had +elapsed numbers of men began to fall behind from absolute inability to keep up. +</p> + +<p> +Yet, in spite of all this, there was that in to-day’s march which +rendered it infinitely more interesting than any we bad performed since the +landing. We had learnt, from various quarters, that the enemy was concentrating +his forces for the purpose of hazarding a battle in defence of his capital. The +truth of these rumours we had no cause to doubt, confirmed as they were by what +we had ourselves witnessed only the evening before; indeed the aspect of +various fields on each side of the high road (which we had now regained), where +smoking ashes, bundles of straw, and remnants of broken victuals were scattered +about, indicated that considerable bodies of troops had passed the night in +this neighbourhood. The appearance of the road itself, likewise, imprinted as +it was with fresh marks of many feet and hoofs, proved that these troops could +be no great way before us; whilst our very proximity to Washington, being now +distant from it not more than ten or twelve miles, all tended to assure us that +we should at least see an American army before dark. +</p> + +<p> +It was now that we experienced the great usefulness of our badly mounted +troopers, or as they were called by the private soldiers, our Cossacks. The +country, from being extremely close, had become open on every side to a +considerable extent, although thick groves, instead of hedges, frequently +separated one field from another. This was exactly the ground on which cavalry +could act with advantage; because they might lie in ambush behind these groves, +totally unperceived, and when an opportunity offered, charge the column, before +it had time to prepare for their reception. There were one or two places, +indeed, where such events were confidently anticipated; whole rows of paling +having been pulled up from the side of the road, and open spaces left, through +which several squadrons of horse might gallop; and the consequence was that +every man held his breath in expectation, and prepared himself to form square +in a moment. It was here that the mounted drivers became peculiarly useful. +They were divided into small parties of six or eight, and sent out in different +directions to reconnoitre, two of them generally taking post at every +suspicious corner, that one might give notice to the column, whilst the other +watched the motions of an enemy. +</p> + +<p> +It so happened that these precautions were unnecessary, for whatever might be +the strength of the Americans in cavalry, their General did not think fit to +employ it in harassing our march. But the very knowledge that every danger was +provided against, and that they could not be attacked without having time to +make ready, gave to the soldiers a degree of steady confidence which they would +otherwise have wanted; and the want of which, had the case been different, +might have been productive of disorder at a moment when good order was of vital +importance. +</p> + +<h3>BLADENSBURG.</h3> + +<p> +We had now proceeded about nine miles, during the last four of which the +sun’s rays had beat continually upon us, and we had inhaled almost as +great a quantity of dust as of air. Numbers of men had already fallen to the +rear, and many more could with difficulty keep up; consequently, if we pushed +on much farther without resting, the chances were that at least one half of the +army would be left behind. To prevent this from happening, and to give time for +the stragglers to overtake the column, a halt was determined upon, and being +led forward to a spot of ground well wooded, and watered by a stream which +crossed the road, the troops were ordered to refresh themselves. Perhaps no +halt ever arrived more seasonably than this, or bid fair to be productive of +more beneficial effects; yet so oppressive was the heat, that we had not +resumed our march above an hour, when the banks by the way side were again +covered with stragglers; some of the finest and stoutest men in the army being +literally unable to go on. +</p> + +<p> +The hour of noon was approaching, when a heavy cloud of dust, apparently not +more than two or three miles distant, attracted our attention. From whence it +originated there was little difficulty in guessing, nor did many minutes expire +before surmise was changed into certainty: for on turning a sudden angle in the +road, and passing a small plantation, which obstructed the vision towards the +left, the British and American armies became visible to one another. The +position occupied by the latter was one of great strength and commanding +attitude. They were drawn up in three lines upon the brow of a hill, having +their front and left flank covered by a branch of the Potomac, and their right +resting upon a thick wood and a deep ravine. This river, which may be about the +breadth of the Isis at Oxford, flowed between the heights occupied by the +American forces and the little town of Bladensburg. Across it was thrown a +narrow bridge, extending from the chief street in that town to the continuation +of the road, which passed through the very centre of their position; and its +right bank (the bank above which they were drawn up) was covered with a narrow +stripe of willows and larch trees, whilst the left was altogether bare, low, +and exposed. Such was the general aspect of their position as at the first +glance it presented itself; of which I must endeavour to give a more detailed +account, that my description of the battle may be in some degree intelligible. +</p> + +<p> +I have said that the right bank of the Potomac was covered with a narrow stripe +of willow and larch trees. Here the Americans had stationed strong bodies of +riflemen, who, in skirmishing order, covered the whole front of their army. +Behind this plantation, again, the fields were open and clear, intersected, at +certain distances, by rows of high and strong palings. About the middle of the +ascent, and in the rear of one of these rows, stood the first line, composed +entirely of infantry; at a proper interval from this, and in a similar +situation, stood the second line; while the third, or reserve, was posted +within the skirts of a wood, which crowned the heights. The artillery, again, +of which they had twenty pieces in the field, was thus arranged on the high +road, and commanding the bridge, stood two heavy guns; and four more, two on +each side of the road, swept partly in the same direction, and partly down the +whole of the slope into the streets of Bladensburg. The rest were scattered, +with no great judgment, along the second line of infantry, occupying different +spaces between the right of one regiment and the left of another; whilst the +cavalry showed itself in one mass, within a stubble field, near the extreme +left of the position. Such was the nature of the ground which they occupied, +and the formidable posture in which they waited our approach; amounting, by +their own account, to nine thousand men, a number exactly doubling that of the +force which was to attack them. +</p> + +<p> +In the mean time, our column continued to advance in the same order which it +had hitherto preserved. The road, having conducted us for about two miles in a +direction parallel with the river, and of consequence with the enemy’s +line, suddenly turned, and led directly towards the town of Bladensburg. Being +of course ignorant whether this town might not be filled with American troops, +the main body paused here till the advanced guard should reconnoitre. The +result proved that no opposition was intended in that quarter, and that the +whole of the enemy’s army had been withdrawn to the opposite side of the +stream, whereupon the column was again put in motion, and in a short time +arrived in the streets of Bladensburg, and within range of the American +artillery. Immediately on our reaching this point, several of their guns opened +upon us, and kept up a quick and well-directed cannonade, from which, as we +were again commanded to halt, the men were directed to shelter themselves as +much as possible behind the houses. The object of this halt, it was +conjectured, was to give the General an opportunity of examining the American +line, and of trying the depth of the river; because at present there appeared +to be but one practicable mode of attack, by crossing the bridge, and taking +the enemy directly in front. To do so, however, exposed as the bridge was, must +be attended with bloody consequences, nor could the delay of a few minutes +produce any mischief which the discovery of a ford would not amply compensate. +</p> + +<p> +But in this conjecture we were altogether mistaken; for without allowing time +to the column to close its ranks, or to be joined by such of the many +stragglers as were now hurrying, as fast as weariness would permit, to regain +their places, the order to halt was countermanded, and the word given to +attack; and we immediately pushed on at double quick time, towards the head of +the bridge. While we were moving along the street, a continued fire was kept +up, with some execution, from those guns which stood to the left of the road; +but it was not till the bridge was covered with our people that the two-gun +battery upon the road itself began to play.—Then, indeed, it also opened, +and with tremendous effect; for at the first discharge almost an entire company +was swept down; but whether it was that the guns had been previously laid with +measured exactness, or that the nerves of the gunners became afterwards +unsteady, the succeeding discharges were much less fatal. The riflemen likewise +began to gall us from the wooded bank with a running fire of musketry; and it +was not without trampling upon many of their dead and dying comrades that the +light brigade established itself on the opposite side of the stream. +</p> + +<p> +When once there, however, everything else appeared easy. Wheeling off to the +right and left of the road, they dashed into the thicket, and quickly cleared +it of the American skirmishers; who, falling back with precipitation upon the +first line, threw it into disorder before it had fired a shot. The consequence +was, that our troops had scarcely shown themselves when the whole of that line +gave way, and fled in the greatest confusion, leaving the two guns upon the +road in possession of the victors. +</p> + +<p> +But here it must be confessed that the light brigade was guilty of imprudence. +Instead of pausing till the rest of the army came up, the soldiers lightened +themselves by throwing away their knapsacks and haversacks; and extending their +ranks so as to show an equal front with the enemy, pushed on to the attack of +the second line. The Americans, however, saw their weakness, and stood firm, +and having the whole of their artillery, with the exception of the pieces +captured on the road, and the greater part of their infantry in this line, they +first checked the ardour of the assailants by a heavy fire, and then, in their +turn, advanced to recover the ground which was lost. Against this charge the +extended order of the British troops would not permit them to offer an +effectual resistance, and they were accordingly borne back to the very thicket +upon the river’s brink; where they maintained themselves with determined +obstinacy, repelling all attempts to drive them through it; and frequently +following, to within a short distance of the cannon’s mouth, such parts +of the enemy’s line as gave way. +</p> + +<p> +In this state the action continued till the second brigade had likewise +crossed, and formed upon the right bank of the river; when the 44th regiment +moving to the right, and driving in the skirmishers, debouched upon the left +flank of the Americans, and completely turned it. In that quarter, therefore, +the battle was won; because the raw militia-men, who were stationed there as +being the least assailable point, when once broken could not be rallied. But on +their right the enemy still kept their ground with much resolution; nor was it +till the arrival of the 4th regiment, and the advance of the British forces in +firm array to the charge, that they began to waver. Then, indeed, seeing their +left in full flight, and the 44th getting in their rear, they lost all order, +and dispersed, leaving clouds of riflemen to cover their retreat; and hastened +to conceal themselves in the woods, where it would have been madness to follow +them. The rout was now general throughout the line. The reserve, which ought to +have supported the main body, fled as soon as those in its front began to give +way; and the cavalry, instead of charging the British troops, now scattered in +pursuit, turned their horses’ heads and galloped off, leaving them in +undisputed possession of the field, and of ten out of the twenty pieces of +artillery. +</p> + +<p> +This battle, by which the fate of the American capital was decided, began about +one o’clock in the afternoon, and lasted till four. The loss on the part +of the English was severe, since, out of two-thirds of the army, which were +engaged, upwards of five hundred men were killed and wounded; and what rendered +it doubly severe was, that among these were numbered several officers of rank +and distinction. Colonel Thornton, who commanded the light brigade, +Lieutenant-Colonel Wood, commanding the 85th regiment, and Major Brown, who led +the advanced guard, were all severely wounded; and General Ross himself had a +horse shot under him. On the side of the Americans the slaughter was not so +great. Being in possession of a strong position, they were of course less +exposed in defending, than the others in storming it; and had they conducted +themselves with coolness and resolution, it is not conceivable how the battle +could have been won. But the fact is, that, with the exception of a party of +sailors from the gun-boats, under the command of Commodore Barney, no troops +could behave worse than they did. The skirmishers were driven in as soon as +attacked, the first line gave way without offering the slightest resistance, +and the left of the main body was broken within half an hour after it was +seriously engaged. Of the sailors, however, it would be injustice not to speak +in the terms which their conduct merits. They were employed as gunners, and not +only did they serve their guns with a quickness and precision which astonished +their assailants, but they stood till some of them were actually bayoneted, +with fuzes in their hands; nor was it till their leader was wounded and taken, +and they saw themselves deserted on all sides by the soldiers, that they +quitted the field. With respect to the British army, again, no line of +distinction can be drawn. All did their duty, and none more gallantly than the +rest; and though the brunt of the affair fell upon the light brigade, this was +owing chiefly to the circumstance of its being at the head of the column, and +perhaps also, in some degree, to its own rash impetuosity. The artillery, +indeed, could do little; being unable to show itself in presence of a force so +superior; but the six-pounder was nevertheless brought into action, and a corps +of rockets proved of striking utility. +</p> + +<p> +Our troops being worn down from fatigue, and of course as ignorant of the +country as the Americans were the reverse, the pursuit could not be continued +to any distance. Neither was it attended with much slaughter. Diving into the +recesses of the forests, and covering themselves with riflemen, the enemy were +quickly beyond our reach; and having no cavalry to scour even the high road, +ten of the lightest of their guns were carried off in the flight. The defeat, +however, was absolute, and the army which had been collected for the defence of +Washington was scattered beyond the possibility of, at least, an immediate +reunion; and as the distance from Bladensburg to that city does not exceed four +miles, there appeared to be no further obstacle in the way to prevent its +immediate capture. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap10"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<h3>WASHINGTON</h3> + +<p> +An opportunity so favourable was not endangered by any needless delay. While +the two brigades which had been engaged remained upon the field to recover +their order, the third, which had formed the reserve, and was consequently +unbroken, took the lead, and pushed forward at a rapid rate towards Washington. +</p> + +<p> +As it was not the intention of the British Government to attempt permanent +conquests in this part of America, and as the General was well aware that, with +a handful of men, he could not pretend to establish himself, for any length of +time, in an enemy’s capital, he determined to lay it under contribution, +and to return quietly to the shipping. Nor was there anything unworthy of the +character of a British officer in this determination. By all the customs of +war, whatever public property may chance to be in a captured town, becomes, +confessedly, the just spoil of the conqueror; and in thus proposing to accept a +certain sum of money in lieu of that property, he was showing mercy rather than +severity to the vanquished. It is true that if they chose to reject his terms +he and his army would be deprived of their booty, because without some more +convenient mode of transporting it than we possessed, even the portable part of +the property itself could not be removed. But, on the other hand, there was no +difficulty in destroying it; and thus, though we should gain nothing, the +American Government would lose probably to a much greater amount than if they +had agreed to purchase its preservation by the money demanded. +</p> + +<p> +Such being the intention of General Ross, he did not march the troops +immediately into the city, but halted them upon a plain in its immediate +vicinity, whilst a flag of truce was sent forward with terms. But whatever his +proposal might have been, it was not so much as heard; for scarcely had the +party bearing the flag entered the street, when it was fired upon from the +windows of one of the houses, and the horse of the General himself, who +accompanied it, killed. The indignation excited by this act throughout all +ranks and classes of men in the army, was such as the nature of the case could +not fail to occasion. Every thought of accommodation was instantly laid aside; +the troops advanced forthwith into the town, and having first put to the sword +all who were found in the house from which the shots were fired, and reduced it +to ashes, they proceeded without a moment’s delay to burn and destroy +everything in the most distant degree connected with Government. In this +general devastation were included the Senate-house, the President’s +palace, an extensive dock-yard and arsenal, barracks for two or three thousand +men, several large storehouses filled with naval and military stores, some +hundreds of cannon of different descriptions, and nearly twenty thousand stand +of small-arms. There were also two or three public ropewalks which shared the +same fate, a fine frigate pierced for sixty guns, and just ready to be +launched, several gun brigs and armed schooners, with a variety of gun-boats +and small craft. The powder-magazines were set on fire, and exploded with a +tremendous crash, throwing down many houses in their vicinity, partly by pieces +of the walls striking them, and partly by the concussion of the air; whilst +quantities of shot, shell, and hand-grenades, which could not otherwise be +rendered useless, were cast into the river. In destroying the cannon a method +was adopted which I had never before witnessed, and which, as it was both +effectual and expeditious, I cannot avoid relating. One gun of rather a small +calibre was pitched upon as the executioner of the rest, and being loaded with +ball and turned to the muzzles of the others, it was fired, and thus beat out +their breechings. Many, however, not being mounted, could not be thus dealt +with; these were spiked, and having their trunnions knocked off, were +afterwards cast into the bed of the river. +</p> + +<p> +All this was as it should be, and had the arm of vengeance been extended no +further, there would not have been room given for so much as a whisper of +disapprobation. But unfortunately it did not stop here; a noble library, +several printing-offices, and all the national archives were likewise committed +to the flames, which, though no doubt the property of Government, might better +have been spared. It is not, however, my intention to join the outcry which was +raised at the time against what the Americans and their admirers were pleased +to term a line of conduct at once barbarous and unprofitable. On the contrary, +I conceive that too much praise cannot be given to the forbearance and humanity +of the British troops, who, irritated as they had every right to be, spared, as +far as possible, all private property, neither plundering nor destroying a +single house in the place, except that from which the General’s horse had +been killed. +</p> + +<p> +Whilst the third brigade was thus employed, the rest of the army, having +recalled its stragglers, and removed the wounded into Bladensburg, began its +march towards Washington. Though the battle came to a close by four +o’clock, the sun had set before the different regiments were in a +condition to move, consequently this short journey was performed in the dark. +The work of destruction had also begun in the city before they quitted their +ground; and the blazing of houses, ships, and stores, the report of exploding +magazines, and the crash of falling roofs, informed them, as they proceeded, of +what was going forward. It would be difficult to conceive a finer spectacle +than that which presented itself as they approached the town. The sky was +brilliantly illumined by the different conflagrations; and a dark red light was +thrown upon the road, sufficient to permit each man to view distinctly his +comrade’s face. Except the burning of St. Sebastian’s, I do not +recollect to have witnessed at any period of my life a scene more striking or +more sublime. +</p> + +<p> +Having advanced as far as the plain, where the reserve had previously paused, +the first and second brigades halted; and forming into close column, passed the +night in bivouac. At first this was agreeable enough, because the air was mild, +and weariness made up for what was wanting in comfort. But towards morning a +violent storm of rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning, came on, which +disturbed the rest of all who were exposed to it. Yet in spite of the +inconvenience arising from the shower, I cannot say that I felt disposed to +grumble at the interruption, for it appeared that what I had before considered +as superlatively sublime, still wanted this to render it complete. The flashes +of lightning vied in brilliancy with the flames which burst from the roofs of +burning houses, whilst the thunder drowned for a time the noise of crumbling +walls, and was only interrupted by the occasional roar of cannon, and of large +depots of gunpowder, as they one by one exploded. +</p> + +<p> +I need scarcely observe, that the consternation of the inhabitants was +complete, and that to them this was a night of terror. So confident had they +been of the success of their troops, that few of them had dreamt of quitting +their houses or abandoning the city; nor was it till the fugitives from the +battle began to rush in, filling every place as they came with dismay, that the +President himself thought of providing for his safety. That gentleman, as I was +credibly informed, had gone forth in the morning with the army, and had +continued among his troops till the British forces began to make their +appearance. Whether the sight of his enemies cooled his courage or not I cannot +say, but according to my informant, no sooner was the glittering of our arms +discernible, than he began to discover that his presence was more wanted in the +senate than in the field; and having ridden through the ranks, and exhorted +every man to do his duty, he hurried back to his own house, that he might +prepare a feast for the entertainment of his officers, when they should return +victorious. For the truth of these details I will not be answerable; but this +much I know, that the feast was actually prepared, though, instead of being +devoured by American officers, it went to satisfy the less delicate appetites +of a party of English soldiers. When the detachment sent out to destroy Mr. +Maddison’s house, entered his dining parlour, they found a dinner-table +spread, and covers laid for forty guests. Several kinds of wine in handsome +cut-glass decanters were cooling on the sideboard; plate-holders stood by the +fire-place, filled with dishes and plates; knives, forks, and spoons, were +arranged for immediate use; everything in short was ready for the entertainment +of a ceremonious party. Such were the arrangements in the dining-room, whilst +in the kitchen were others answerable to them in every respect. Spits loaded +with joints of various sorts turned before the fire; pots, saucepans, and other +culinary utensils stood upon the grate; and all the other requisites for an +elegant and substantial repast were in the exact state which indicated that +they had been lately and precipitately abandoned. +</p> + +<p> +The reader will easily believe that these preparations were beheld, by a party +of hungry soldiers, with no indifferent eye. An elegant dinner, even though +considerably over-dressed, was a luxury to which few of them, at least for some +time back, had been accustomed; and which, after the dangers and fatigues of +the day, appeared peculiarly inviting. They sat down to it, therefore, not +indeed in the most orderly manner, but with countenances which would not have +disgraced a party of aldermen at a civic feast; and having satisfied their +appetites with fewer complaints than would have probably escaped their rival +gourmands, and partaken pretty freely of the wines, they finished by setting +fire to the house which had so liberally entertained them. +</p> + +<p> +I have said that to the inhabitants of Washington this was a night of terror +and dismay. From whatever cause the confidence arose, certain it is that they +expected anything rather than the arrival among them of a British army; and +their consternation was proportionate to their previous feeling of security, +when an event, so little anticipated, actually came to pass. The first impulse +naturally prompted them to fly, and the streets were speedily crowded with +soldiers and senators, men, women, and children, horses, carriages, and carts +loaded with household furniture, all hastening towards a wooden bridge which +crosses the Potomac. The confusion thus occasioned was terrible, and the crowd +upon the bridge was such as to endanger its giving way. But Mr. Maddison, as is +affirmed, having escaped among the first, was no sooner safe on the opposite +bank of the river, than he gave orders that the bridge should be broken down; +which being obeyed, the rest were obliged to return, and to trust to the +clemency of the victors. +</p> + +<p> +In this manner was the night passed by both parties; and at daybreak next +morning the light brigade moved into the city, whilst the reserve fell back to +a height about half a mile in the rear. Little, however, now remained to be +done, because everything marked out for destruction was already consumed. Of +the Senate-house, the President’s palace, the barracks, the dockyard, +&c., nothing could be seen, except heaps of smoking ruins; and even the +bridge, a noble structure upwards of a mile in length, was almost entirely +demolished. There was, therefore, no further occasion to scatter the troops, +and they were accordingly kept together as much as possible on the Capitol +Hill. +</p> + +<p> +Of the city of Washington I have purposely declined attempting any minute +description, because it possesses no leading features, by catching which I +might hope to convey to a person who has not seen it, something like an +accurate notion of the whole. It was then, and is, I believe, still in its +infancy, few of the streets being finished, and many containing not more than +three or four houses, at wide intervals from each other. But its situation +gives to it advantages such as few capitals either in the new or old world can +boast of, and if it continue to be the head of the American States for another +century, it will become, I doubt not, one of the most flourishing cities in +existence. America is, and always will be, a commercial nation, nor can a +single town throughout the whole of that vast continent boast of a better +harbour than Washington. Standing upon the Potomac, one of the most navigable +of all the rivers that empty themselves into the Chesapeake, the depth of which +is sufficient to float a frigate for some way above the town, it possesses +unrivalled facilities for the carrying on of an extensive trade; whilst its +distance from the coast is such as to place it, in a great measure, beyond +reach of insult from an enemy. Such an assertion, coming from one who has just +detailed the particulars of its capture, may, indeed, appear to partake not +slightly of the nature of a paradox; but there is no denying that the fall of +Washington ought to be attributed much more to the misconduct of the Americans +themselves, than to the skill or enterprise of those who effected it. Had the +emergency been contemplated, and in a proper manner provided against, or had +the most moderate ingenuity and courage been displayed in retarding the +progress of our troops, the design, if formed at all, would have been either +abandoned immediately, or must have ended in the total destruction of the +invaders. +</p> + +<p> +Like other infant towns, Washington is but little ornamented with fine +buildings; except the Senate-house, I really know of none worthy to be noticed. +This however is, or rather was, an edifice of some beauty. It stood, where its +ruins now stand, upon a mound called the Capitol Hill, and near a trifling +stream named the Tiber; from which circumstances these modern republicans are +led to flatter themselves that the days are coming when it will rival in power +and grandeur the Senate-house of ancient Rome herself. It was built entirely of +freestone, tastefully worked and highly polished; and, besides its numerous +windows, was lighted from the top by a large and handsome cupola. Perhaps it +could not be said to belong to any decided style of architecture; but its +central appearance was light, airy, and elegant. After traversing a wide and +spacious entrance-hall, you arrived at the foot of a handsome spiral hanging +staircase; on the right of which were two spacious apartments, one above the +other, which were occupied as sitting chambers by the two houses of +representatives. From these branched off several smaller rooms, fitted up as +offices, and probably used as such by the various officers of state. On the +right of the staircase, again, were two other apartments equal in size to those +on the left, with a like number of smaller rooms branching off from them. These +were furnished as a public library, the two larger being well stocked with +valuable books, principally in modern languages, whilst the others, filled with +archives, national statutes, acts of legislature, &c., were used as the +private rooms of the librarians. +</p> + +<p> +The President’s house, on the other hand, though likewise a public +building, was remarkable for nothing except the absence of taste exhibited in +its structure. It was small, incommodious, and plain; in no respect likely to +excite the jealousy of a people peculiarly averse to all pomp or parade, even +in their chief magistrate. Besides these, there were also a custom-house, +several banking-houses, and a school or college, all claiming to themselves the +destruction of public works; but in them there was a plainness amounting almost +to coarseness, and a general air of republicanism, by no means imposing. With +respect to the number of inhabitants which Washington contained, I confess that +I cannot pretend to give an opinion: but if any judgment may be formed from the +extent of ground covered by what is considered as the town, I should say that +they amounted to somewhere about sixty thousand. George Town, the quarter where +the President’s house stood, is compact and regular, containing, I should +conceive, at least twenty thousand souls within itself; nor can the population +of the other quarters be estimated at less than double that number. +</p> + +<p> +Such was then the city of Washington, of which our hasty and unfriendly visit +did not allow us to take a very minute survey. I return now to the movements of +the British army. +</p> + +<p> +I have stated above that our troops were this day kept as much together as +possible upon the Capitol Hill. But it was not alone on account of the +completion of their destructive labours that this was done. A powerful army of +Americans already began to show themselves upon some heights, at the distance +of two or three miles from the city; and as they sent out detachments of horse +even to the very suburbs, for the purpose of watching our motions, it would +have been unsafe to permit more straggling than was absolutely necessary. The +army which we had overthrown the day before, though defeated, was far from +annihilated; it had by this time recovered its panic, began to concentrate +itself in our front, and presented quite as formidable an appearance as ever. +We learnt, also, that it was joined by a considerable force from the back +settlements, which had arrived too late to take part in the action, and the +report was, that both combined amounted to nearly twelve thousand men. +</p> + +<p> +Whether or not it was their intention to attack, I cannot pretend to say, +because it was noon before they showed themselves; and soon after, when +something like a movement could be discerned in their ranks, the sky grew +suddenly dark, and the most tremendous hurricane ever remembered by the oldest +inhabitant in the place came on. Of the prodigious force of the wind it is +impossible for one who was not an eye-witness to its effects to form a +conception. Roofs of houses were torn off by it, and whirled into the air like +sheets of paper; whilst the rain which accompanied it resembled the rushing of +a mighty cataract rather than the dropping of a shower. The darkness was as +great as if the sun had long set, and the last remains of twilight had come on, +occasionally relieved by flashes of vivid lightning streaming through it; +which, together with the noise of the wind and the thunder, the crash of +falling buildings, and the tearing of roofs as they were stript from the walls, +produced the most appalling effect I ever have, and probably ever shall, +witness. The storm lasted for nearly two hours without intermission, during +which time many of the houses spared by us were blown down, and thirty of our +men, besides several of the inhabitants, buried beneath their ruins. Our column +was as completely dispersed as if it had received a total defeat; some of the +men flying for shelter behind walls and buildings, and others falling flat upon +the ground, to prevent themselves from being carried away by the tempest; nay, +such was the violence of the wind, that two pieces of light cannon, which stood +upon the eminence, were fairly lifted from the ground, and borne several yards +to the rear. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap11"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<p> +When the hurricane had blown over, the camp of the Americans appeared to be in +as great a state of confusion as our own; nor could either party recover +themselves sufficiently during the rest of the day to try the fortune of a +battle. Of this General Ross did not fail to take advantage. He had already +attained all that he could hope, and perhaps more than he originally expected +to attain; consequently, to risk another action would only be to spill blood +for no purpose. Whatever might be the issue of the contest, he could derive +from it no advantage. If he were victorious, it would not do away with the +necessity which existed of evacuating Washington; if defeated, his ruin was +certain. To avoid fighting was therefore his object, and perhaps he owed its +accomplishment to the fortunate occurrence of the storm. Be that, however, as +it may, a retreat was resolved upon; and we now only waited for night, to put +the resolution into practice. +</p> + +<p> +There was, however, one difficulty to be surmounted in this proceeding. Of the +wounded, many were so ill as to preclude all possibility of their removal, and +to leave them in the hands of an enemy whom we had beaten was rather a +mortifying anticipation. But for this there was no help; and it now only +remained to make the best arrangements for their comfort, and to secure for +them, as far as could be done, civil treatment from the Americans. +</p> + +<p> +It chanced that, among other prisoners taken at Bladensburg, was Commodore +Barney, an American officer of much gallantry and high sense of honour. Being +himself wounded, he was the more likely to feel for those who were in a similar +condition, and having received the kindest treatment from our medical +attendants, as long as he continued under their hands, he became, without +solicitation, the friend of his fellow-sufferers. To him, as well as to the +other prisoners, was given his parole, and to his care were our wounded, in a +peculiar manner, intrusted,—a trust which he received with the utmost +willingness, and discharged with the most praiseworthy exactness. Among other +stipulations, it was agreed that such of our people as were left behind should +be considered as prisoners of war, and should be restored to us as soon as they +were able to travel; and that, as soon as they reached the ships, the Commodore +and his countrymen would, in exchange, be released from their engagements. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as these arrangements were completed, and darkness had come on, the +third brigade, which was posted in the rear of our army, began to withdraw. +Then followed the guns, afterwards the second, and last of all the light +brigade, exactly reversing the order which had been maintained during the +advance. Instead of an advanced guard, this last now furnished a party to cover +the retreat, and the whole procession was closed by the mounted drivers. +</p> + +<p> +It being a matter of great importance to deceive the enemy and to prevent +pursuit, the rear of the column did not quit its ground upon the Capitol till a +late hour. During the day an order had been issued that none of the inhabitants +should be seen in the streets after eight o’clock; and as fear renders +most men obedient, the order was punctually attended to. All the horses +belonging to different officers were removed to drag the guns, no one being +allowed to ride, lest a neigh, or even the trampling of hoofs, should excite +suspicion. The fires were trimmed, and made to blaze brightly; fuel enough was +left to keep them so for some hours; and finally, about half-past nine +o’clock the troops formed in marching order, and moved off in the most +profound silence. Not a word was spoken, nor a single individual permitted to +step one inch out of his place, by which means they passed along the streets +perfectly unnoticed, and cleared the town without any alarm being given. Our +pace, it will be imagined, was none of the most tardy, consequently it was not +long before we reached the ground which had been occupied by the other +brigades. Here we found a second line of fires blazing in the same manner as +those deserted by ourselves; and the same precautions in every respect adopted, +to induce a belief that our army was still quiet.—Beyond these, again, we +found two or three solitary fires, placed in such order as to resemble those of +a chain of piquets. In a word, the deception was so well managed, that even we +ourselves were at first doubtful whether the rest of the troops had fallen +back. +</p> + +<p> +When we reached the ground where yesterday’s battle had been fought, the +moon rose, and exhibited a spectacle by no means enlivening.—The dead +were still unburied, and lay about in every direction completely naked. They +had been stripped even of their shirts, and having been exposed in this state +to the violent rain in the morning, they appeared to be bleached to a most +unnatural degree of whiteness. The heat and rain together had likewise affected +them in a different manner; and the smell which rose upon the night air was +horrible. +</p> + +<p> +There is something in such a scene as this extremely humbling, and repugnant to +the feelings of human nature. During the agitation of a battle, it is nothing +to see men fall in hundreds by your side. You may look at them, perhaps, for an +instant, but you do so almost without being yourself aware of it, so completely +are your thoughts carried away by the excitation of the moment and the shouts +of your companions.—But when you come to view the dead in an hour of +calmness, stripped as they generally are, you cannot help remembering how frail +may have been the covering which saved yourself from being the loathsome thing +on which you are now gazing.—For myself, I confess that these reflections +rose within my mind on the present occasion; and if any one should say that, +similarly situated, they would not rise in his, I should give him no credit for +a superior degree of courage, though I might be inclined to despise him for his +want of the common feelings of a reasonable being. +</p> + +<h3>BLADENSBURG.</h3> + +<p> +In Bladensburg the brigade halted for an hour, while those men who had thrown +away their knapsacks endeavoured to recover them. During this interval I +strolled up to a house which had been converted into an hospital, and paid a +hasty visit to the wounded. I found them in great pain, and some of them deeply +affected at the thought of being abandoned by their comrades, and left to the +mercy of their enemies. Yet, in their apprehension of evil treatment from the +Americans, the event proved that they had done injustice to that people; who +were found to possess at least one generous trait in their character, namely, +that of behaving kindly and attentively to their prisoners. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as the stragglers had returned to their ranks, we again moved on, +continuing to march without once stopping to rest during the whole of the +night. Of the fatigue of a night march none but those who have experienced it +can form the smallest conception. Oppressed with the most intolerable +drowsiness, we were absolutely dozing upon our legs; and if any check at the +head of the column caused a momentary delay, the road was instantly covered +with men fast asleep. It is generally acknowledged that no inclination is so +difficult to resist as the inclination to sleep; but when you are compelled not +only to bear up against that, but to struggle also with weariness, and to walk +at the same time, it is scarcely possible to hold out long. By seven +o’clock in the morning, it was found absolutely necessary to pause, +because numbers had already fallen behind, and numbers more were ready to +follow their example; when throwing ourselves upon the ground, almost in the +same order in which we had marched, in less than five minutes there was not a +single unclosed eye throughout the whole brigade. Piquets were of course +stationed, and sentinels placed, to whom no rest was granted, but, except +these, the entire army resembled a heap of dead bodies on a field of battle, +rather than living men. +</p> + +<h3>ARLBOROUGH</h3> + +<p> +In this situation we remained till noon, when we were again roused to continue +the retreat. Though the sun was oppressively powerful, we moved on without +resting till dark, when having arrived at our old position near Marlborough, we +halted for the night. During this day’s march we were joined by numbers +of negro slaves, who implored us to take them along with us, offering to serve +either as soldiers or sailors, if we would but give them their liberty; but as +General Ross persisted in protecting private property of every description, few +of them were fortunate enough to obtain their wishes. +</p> + +<p> +We had now proceeded a distance of thirty-five miles, and began to consider +ourselves beyond the danger of pursuit. The remainder of the retreat was +accordingly conducted with more leisure; our next march carrying us no farther +than to Nottingham, where we remained during an entire day, for the purpose of +resting the troops. It cannot, however, be said that this resting-time was +spent in idleness. A gun-brig, with a number of ships’ launches and +long-boats, had made their way up the stream, and were at anchor opposite to +the town. On board the former were carried such of the wounded as had been able +to travel, whilst the latter were loaded with flour and tobacco, the only spoil +which we found it practicable to bring off. +</p> + +<p> +Whilst the infantry were thus employed, the cavalry was sent back as far as +Marlborough, to discover whether there were any American forces in pursuit; and +it was well for the few stragglers who had been left behind that this +recognizance was made. Though there appeared to be no disposition on the part +of the American General to follow our steps and to harass the retreat, the +inhabitants of that village, at the instigation of a medical practitioner +called Bain, bad risen in arms as soon as we departed; and falling upon such +individuals as strayed from the column, put some of them to death, and made +others prisoners. A soldier whom they had taken, and who had escaped, gave +information of these proceedings to the troopers, just as they were about to +return to head-quarters; upon which they immediately wheeled about, and +galloping into the village, pulled the doctor out of his bed (for it was early +in the morning), compelled him, by a threat of instant death, to liberate his +prisoners; and mounting him before one of the party, brought him in triumph to +the camp. +</p> + +<h3>ST. BENEDICT’S.</h3> + +<p> +The wounded, the artillery, and plunder, being all embarked on the 28th, at +daybreak on the 29th we took the direction of St. Benedict’s, where we +arrived, without any adventure, at a late hour in the evening. Here we again +occupied the ground of which we had taken possession on first landing, passing +the night in perfect quiet; and next day, the boats of the fleet being ready to +receive us, the regiments, one by one, marched down to the beach. We found the +shore covered with sailors from the different ships of war, who welcomed our +arrival with loud cheers; and having contrived to bring up a larger flotilla +than had been employed in the disembarkation, they removed us within a few +hours, and without the occurrence of any accident, to our respective vessels. +</p> + +<p> +Such is a plain impartial account of the inroad upon Washington, an affair than +which the whole war produced none more brilliant or more daring. In whatever +light we may regard it, whether we look to the amount of difficulties which it +behoved him to overcome, the inadequacy of the force which he commanded, or the +distance which he was called upon to march, in the midst of a hostile +population, and through deep and trackless forests, we cannot deny to General +Ross the praise which is his due, of having planned and successfully +accomplished an expedition which none but a sagacious mind could have devised, +and none but a gallant spirit carried into execution. Among the many important +transactions which then occupied the public attention, the campaign at +Washington was, I believe, but little spoken of; and even now, it is +overwhelmed in the recollections of the all-engrossing Waterloo; but the time +will probably come, when he who at the head of four thousand men penetrated +upwards of sixty miles into an enemy’s country; overthrew an army more +than double his own in point of numbers; took possession of the capital of a +great nation, and having held it as long as it suited his own purposes to hold +it, returned again in triumph to his fleet, will be ranked, as he deserves to +be ranked, among the number of those who have most successfully contributed to +elevate Great Britain to the height of military glory on which she now stands. +</p> + +<p> +It has been said that the entire merit of this brilliant expedition is due, not +so much to the brave man who conducted it, as to Sir George Cockburn, at whose +suggestion it was undertaken. To the great gallantry and high talents of Sir +George Cockburn no one who served within the compass of the Bay of Chesapeake +will refuse to bear testimony, nor is it improbable that in attributing to him +the original, design of laying Washington itself under contribution, common +report speaks truly. But with whomsoever the idea first originated, to General +Ross belongs the undivided of having, carried it into effect. From Sir George +Cockburn, and indeed from the whole fleet, the army received every assistance +which it was in the power of the the fleet to bestow; but had no Ross been at +the head of the land forces, the capital of the United States would have +suffered no insult. I have ventured to make these remarks, not with any design +of taking away, in the slightest degree, from the well-earned reputation of the +living; but merely as an act of justice towards the memory of the gallant dead, +whose services have hardly received all the notice, either from the Government +or the country, which they deserved. +</p> + +<p> +Of the degree of military sagacity exhibited on both sides, during the progress +of hostilities, it scarcely becomes me to speak. Perhaps our leader delayed +something too long in making, up his mind as to the ultimate end to be pursued, +after the troop had penetrated so far into the interior as Marlborough. Had he +pushed on at once, it is barely possible that Washington might have fallen at a +less expense of human life than actually occurred. Perhaps, too, he commenced +the attack at Bladensburg with a degree of precipitancy which hindered him +from, taking advantage of an open ford, and compelled him to expose his troops +to the fire of the enemy’s artillery whilst crossing a narrow bridge in a +single column. But these errors, if errors they may be termed, were amply +compensated by the perfect success of his operations; whilst in every other +particular his conduct was beyond the reach of censure. In his choice of ground +for halting, in the order both of his advance and retreat, and in the rapidity +of his movements as soon as his plans had been arranged, General Ross exhibited +himself in the light of an able and diligent commander. No man could possess, +more than he a soldier’s eye in examining the face of a country; and in +what little manoeuvring the circumstances permitted, he displayed the +proficiency of one well practised in the arts of campaigning. It will be +recollected, that on the 23rd, the day previous to the battle, we fell in with +a strong body of the enemy, to deceive whom we wheeled off from the main road, +and took the direction of Alexandria. The plan was attended by the most perfect +success; the party deceived, being in fact the advanced guard of the main army. +Thinking that Alexandria, and not Washington, was threatened, the American +General abandoned a strong position, which he had seized on the main road, +harassed his troops by a needless march towards that town; and discovered his +mistake only time enough to occupy the heights of Bladensburg a very few +minutes before we came in sight. +</p> + +<p> +With respect to the Americans, again, criticism necessarily degenerates into +unqualified censure. From the beginning to the end of the affair, they acted in +no one instance like prudent or sagacious men. In the first place, they ought +on no account to have risked a general action in an open country, however +strong and steep; and, secondly, they deserved to suffer much more severely +than they did suffer, for permitting an enemy’s army to penetrate beyond +Nottingham. In allowing us to land without opposition, they were perhaps guilty +of no great mistake; but having done so, instead of concentrating their forces +in one place, they ought to have harassed us with continual skirmishing; felled +trees on each side, and thrown them across the road; dug deep ditches at +certain intervals; in a word, it was their wisdom to adopt the mode of warfare +to which their own habits, as, well as the nature of their country, invited +them. +</p> + +<p> +In America, every man is a marksman from his very boyhood, and every man serves +in the militia; but to bring an army of raw militia-men, however excellent they +might be as marksmen, into a fair field against regular troops, could end in +nothing but defeat. When two lines oppose each other, very little depends upon +the accuracy with which individuals take aim. It is then that the habit of +acting in concert, the confidence which each man feels in his companions, and +the rapidity and good order in which different movements can be executed, are +alone of real service. But put these raw militia-men into thick woods, and send +your regular troops to drive them out, and you will immediately lose all the +advantages of discipline, and reduce your battle to so many single combats. +</p> + +<p> +Here, therefore, lay their principal error: had they left all clear, and +Permitted us to advance as far as Nottingham, then broken up the roads, and +covered them with trees, it would have been impossible for us to go a step +beyond. As soon as this was effected, they might have skirmished with us in +front, and kept our attention alive with part of their troops, till the rest, +acquainted as they doubtless were with every inch of the country, had got into +our rear, and, by a similar mode of proceeding, cut off our retreat. Thus we +should have been taken in a snare, from which it would have been no easy task +to extricate ourselves, and might, perhaps, have been obliged in the end to +surrender at discretion. +</p> + +<p> +But so obvious and so natural a plan of defence they chose to reject and +determining to trust all to the fate of a battle, they were guilty of a +monstrous error again. Bladensburg ought not to have been left unoccupied. The +most open village, if resolutely defended, will cost many men before it falls; +whereas Bladensburg, being composed of substantial brick houses, might have +been maintained for hours against all our efforts. In the next place, they +displayed great want of military knowledge in the disposition of both their +infantry and artillery. There was not, in the whole space of their position, a +single point where an enemy would be exposed to a cross fire. The troops were +drawn up in three straight lines, like so many regiments upon a gala parade; +whilst the guns were used as connecting links to a chain, being posted in the +same order, by ones and twos, at every interval. +</p> + +<p> +In maintaining themselves, likewise, when attacked, they exhibited neither +skill nor resolution. Of the personal courage of the Americans there can be no +doubt; they are, individually taken, as brave a nation as any in the world. But +they are not soldiers; they have not the experience nor the habits of soldiers. +It was the height of folly, therefore, to bring them into a situation where +nothing except that experience and those habits will avail; and it is on this +account that I repeat what I have already said, that the capture of Washington +was more owing to the blindness of the Americans themselves than to any other +cause. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap12"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<h3>ALEXANDRIA</h3> + +<p> +Whilst the army was thus actively employed, the fleet did not remain idle. A +squadron of frigates, with two bomb-ships, under the command of Captain Gordon, +of the Sea-horse, penetrated up the Potomac, and appeared before Alexandria. +The whole of the militia of the district was at this time called away for the +defence of the capital, consequently no place could be less prepared to resist +an invader than that city. A party accordingly landed from the ships without +opposition, and having destroyed the barracks, public works, and all the cannon +which they found on shore, they seized a number of schooners and other small +craft then lying in the harbour, and loading them with flour and tobacco to a +considerable amount, prepared to rejoin the fleet in the bay. +</p> + +<p> +But by this time the country was alarmed; a detachment was sent from the main +army, and being joined by the reserve of militia, it was determined to +intercept the squadron on its return. With this view, several pieces of heavy +cannon were mounted upon a steep part of the bank, where the river, in making +an angle, narrows considerably in its channel. Thither also hastened large +bodies of infantry; and before the frigates had begun to weigh anchor nearly +5000 men were assembled to prevent their passage. +</p> + +<p> +Of these preparations Captain Gordon did not long remain ignorant; nor was he +backward in making the best arrangements possible to meet the danger. By +shifting the ballast in each of the vessels entirely to one side, he caused +them to lean in such a manner as that their artillery could be elevated to a +surprising degree, and the shot rise even to the summit of the hill. The guns +were then stuffed, rather than loaded, with grape and musket-balls; and the +ships, taking their stations according to their draft of water, the lightest +keeping nearest to the enemy’s shore, set sail, and, favoured by a +leading breeze, stood leisurely down the river. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as they arrived within tangible distance, a brisk cannonade was opened +upon them from the heights, and the whole of the infantry appeared in line +along, the brow of the eminence. Regardless of these formidable salutations, +the ships continued to hold their course without changing their order or +returning a shot, till they reached the base of the hill upon which the +infantry stood, and received a volley of musketry into their decks. Then, +indeed, they answered the fire; and with such effect, that at the first +broadside the enemy’s guns were abandoned, and their infantry took to +flight. The Americans had persuaded themselves that no ship could point her +guns so as to sweep the top of the hill; and under this idea had drawn up their +troops along the ridge, with the intention of overawing the squadron by a +display of their numbers. But in the event they found themselves mistaken, for +so well had Captain Gordon arranged matters, that not a single shot fell under +its mark; and as the ships’ artillery had been loaded for the occasion, a +shower of balls of every size and description came amongst them, such as it was +impossible to withstand. A single broadside was sufficient to secure the safe +passage of his squadron; but with this Captain Gordon was not contented. Seeing +the enemy driven from their cannon, he immediately landed his marines, spiked +the guns, and blew up the expense magazines; when, having received them all +safely on board again, he continued his voyage, and regained the Chesapeake +without further molestation. +</p> + +<p> +Nor was this the only operation in which the navy were employed. Cruising about +in every direction, they threatened the whole line of coast, from the entrance +to the very bend of the bay; and thus kept the Americans in a constant state of +alarm. Whenever a favourable opportunity presented itself, parties landed, +plundered or destroyed the Government stores, laid towns and districts under +contribution, and brought off all the shipping which could be reached. In a +word, the hostilities carried on in the Chesapeake resembled the expeditions of +the ancient Danes against Great Britain, rather than a modern war between +civilized nations. But these hasty excursions, though generally successful, +were not always performed without loss to the invaders. Many men and some +officers were killed and wounded, among whom was Captain Sir Peter Parker, of +the Menelaus frigate, an officer distinguished for his gallantry and knowledge +of naval tactics. Having learnt that an encampment of 300 men and six pieces of +cannon had been formed, at the distance of a few miles from the banks of the +Potomac, and about nine leagues below Alexandria, he determined, with part of +his ship’s crew, to surprise it, and to capture the guns. Running his +frigate with this view up the river, he cast anchor opposite to the place where +the American forces lay; and leaving on board only a sufficient number of +sailors to manage the ship, and to guard against surprise, with the rest, +amounting to 200 seamen and marines, he landed, and marched rapidly towards the +enemy’s camp. But intelligence of his proceedings had already reached +them; patrols of horse hovering continually along the coast for the purpose of +watching the motions of our fleet. When, therefore, he arrived at the point of +destination, he found the bivouac deserted, and the rear-guard in full retreat. +With these a little skirmishing ensued, and he received a rifle-ball in the +thigh. Not suspecting that the wound was dangerous, he continued to push +forward, till he fell exhausted from loss of blood; when, on examining the +hurt, it was found that the femoral artery had been cut; and before any proper +assistance could be afforded, he literally bled to death. Seeing their leader +killed, and the enemy retiring, apparently with the design of drawing them away +from the coast, the sailors now halted; and taking up their dead commander, +returned to the river without being able to effect anything which might, in any +degree, console them for their loss. +</p> + +<h3>THE PATUXENT.</h3> + +<p> +In the meantime the army continued, for some days, quietly on board the ships +in the Patuxent. The wounded whose cases appeared most desperate were removed +to vessels fitted up for their reception, and sailed, some for Halifax, and +others for England. The dispatches were likewise made out and sent off in the +Iphigenia, whilst a sort of breathing-time was given to those who had been of +late so actively employed. Whilst this sabbath continued, I amused myself by +landing; and under the pretext of shooting, strolled sometimes farther up the +country than prudence exactly warranted. The houses and villas, upon the +immediate banks of the river, I found universally deserted, and thoroughly +plundered. The corn, however, was uninjured; and even flocks of sheep were seen +grazing within a short distance of the water, protected only by negro slaves. +Of these none were taken without an equivalent being as faithfully paid as if +they had been sold in the market-place of New York; a circumstance which +favoured the belief that the houses had been ransacked, not by the British +troops, but by the inhabitants themselves. Whether it was really so or not I +cannot say, but this I know, that from the time of our arrival in the +Chesapeake, all acts of individual plunder or violence were strictly +prohibited, and severely punished. +</p> + +<p> +But this appearance of ruin and desertion extended not more than a mile or two +from the coast. Beyond that, I found the cottages occupied by their owners, and +everything remaining as if no enemy were within a hundred miles. The young men, +indeed, were generally absent, because every man fit to bear arms was now +serving with the army; but the old men and the women seemed to live as +comfortably as if the most profound peace had reigned throughout the State. Nor +did I find them altogether so hostile to our interest as I had expected. They +professed to be Federalists; and though they regretted the events of the war, +they blamed their own rulers for its commencement. Tempted by this show of +quietness, I one day continued my walk to a greater distance from the fleet +than I had yet ventured to do. My servant was with me, but had no arms, and I +was armed only with a double-barrelled fowling-piece. Having wearied myself +with looking for game, and penetrated beyond my former landmarks, I came +suddenly upon a small hamlet, occupying a piece of cleared ground in the very +heart of a thick wood. With this, to confess the truth, I was by no means +delighted, more especially as I perceived two stout-looking men sitting at the +door of one of the cottages. To retire unobserved was, however, impossible, +because the rustling which I had made among the trees attracted their +attention, and they saw me; probably, before I had seen them. Perceiving that +their eyes were fixed upon me, I determined to put a bold face upon the matter; +and calling aloud, as if to a party to halt, I advanced, with my servant, +towards them. They were dressed in sailors’ jackets and trowsers, and +rose on my approach, taking off their hats with much civility. On joining them, +I demanded to be informed whether they were not Englishmen, and deserters from +the fleet, stating that I was in search of two persons very much answering +their description. They assured me that they were Americans, and no deserters, +begging that I would not take them away; a request to which, after some time, I +assented. They then conducted me into the house, where I found an old man and +three women, who entertained me with bread, cheese, and new milk. While I was +sitting here, a third youth, in the dress of a labourer, entered, and whispered +to one of the sailors, who immediately rose to go out, but I commanded him to +sit still, declaring that I was not satisfied, and should certainly arrest him +if he attempted to escape. The man sat down sulkily; and the young labourer +coming forward, begged permission to examine my gun. This was a request which I +did not much relish, and with which I, of course, refused to comply; telling +the fellow that it was loaded, and that I was unwilling to trust it out of my +own band, on account of a weakness in one of the locks. +</p> + +<p> +I had now kept up appearances as long as they could be kept up, and therefore +rose to withdraw; a measure to which I was additionally induced by the +appearance of two other countrymen at the opposite end of the hamlet. I +therefore told the sailors that, if they would pledge themselves to remain +quietly at home, without joining the American army, I would not molest them; +warning them, at the same time, not to venture beyond the village, lest they +should fall into the hands of other parties, who were also in search of +deserters. The promise they gave, but not with much alacrity, when I rose, and +keeping my eye fixed upon them, and my gun ready cocked in my hand, walked out, +followed by my servant. They conducted us to the door, and stood staring after +us till we got to the edge of the wood; when I observed them moving towards +their countrymen, who also gazed upon us, without either advancing or flying. +The reader will readily believe, that as soon as we found ourselves concealed +by the trees, we lost no time in endeavouring to discover the direct way +towards the shipping; but plunging into the thickets, ran with all speed, +without thinking of aught except an immediate escape from pursuit. Whether the +Americans did attempt to follow, or not, I cannot tell. If they did, they took +a wrong direction, for in something more than an hour I found myself at the +edge of the river, a little way above the shipping, and returned safely on +board, fully resolved not again, to expose myself to such risks, without +necessity. +</p> + +<h3>THE PATAPSCO.</h3> + +<p> +In this manner the time was spent till daybreak on the 6th of September, when +the whole fleet got under weigh, and stood towards the Chesapeake. The wind was +fair, and we speedily cleared the river; but instead of standing up the bay, as +we had expected, we ran down a few miles below the mouth of the Patuxent, and +there anchored. A signal was then made by telegraph for all ships to send in a +return of the number of seamen whom, in addition to marines, they could land +with small-arms. Every ship’s crew was accordingly mustered, and it was +found that, besides the numbers necessary for conveying stores and dragging +guns, one thousand sailors could be spared from the fleet. Thus, in spite of +our loss at Bladensburg, we were enabled on our next debarkation to bring into +the field about five thousand fighting men. +</p> + +<p> +Next morning we again weighed, and directed our course towards the Potomac. We +entered this river soon after midday, and continued to stem the stream during +the night, and till dusk on the following evening, when we again brought up. +Here we were joined by Admiral Cockburn, who had quitted the anchorage some +days before the rest of the fleet, with a large flotilla of prizes and small +craft; and having on the 9th once more set sail, and steered for a few hours in +the direction of Alexandria, we suddenly put about, and, favoured by a fresh +breeze, ran down to the bay, turning our heads upwards towards the Patapsco. +Baltimore, it was now understood, was the point of attack; and towards the +river upon which that town is built we hastened under a heavy press of sail. +</p> + +<p> +The object of this manoeuvring was evidently to deceive the enemy, and by +keeping him in suspense as to the place threatened, to prevent his +concentrating his forces, or throwing up works for its defence. But in the +attainment of our object, the event proved that we were but partially +successful. Certain it is, however, that the utmost consternation prevailed in +every town or village opposite to which we made our appearance. In passing +Anapolis, a considerable town built upon the bay, and possessing a tolerable +harbour, we stood in so close as to discern the inhabitants flying from their +houses; carts and waggons loaded with furniture hurrying along the roads, and +horsemen galloping along the shore, as if watching the fearful moment when the +boats should be hoisted out, and the troops quit the vessels. Wherever a +lighthouse or signal station was erected, alarm-guns were fired and beacons +lighted. In a word, all the horrors of doubt and apprehension seemed to oppress +the inhabitants of this devoted district. +</p> + +<p> +The fair wind continuing to blow without interruption, on the 11th we came in +sight of the projecting headland, where it was designed to disembark the +troops. It was a promontory washed by the Patapsco on one side, and a curvature +of the bay itself on the other. It was determined to land here, rather than to +ascend the river, because the Patapsco, though broad, is far from deep. It is, +in fact, too shallow to admit a line-of-battle ship; and, as no one could guess +what impediments might be thrown in the way to obstruct the navigation, +prudence forbade that five thousand men should be intrusted to the convoy of +the smaller vessels alone. Besides, the distance from the point to Baltimore +did not exceed fourteen or fifteen miles, a space which might easily be +traversed in a day. +</p> + +<p> +But while the land forces moved in this direction upon Baltimore, it was +resolved that the frigates and bomb-ships should endeavour to force their way +through every obstacle, and to obtain possession of the navigation of the +river, so as, if possible, to co-operate with the army by bombarding the place +from the water. A frigate was accordingly dispatched to try the depth, and to +take soundings of the channel, whilst the remainder of the fleet came to an +anchor off the point. In the meantime all was again bustle and preparation on +board the troop-ships and transports. Three days’ provisions were cooked, +as before, and given to the men; and as we were now to carry everything by a +coup-de-main, twenty rounds of ammunition were added to the sixty with which +soldiers are usually loaded; whilst a smaller quantity of other baggage was +directed to be taken on shore. A blanket, with a spare shirt and pair of shoes, +was considered enough for each man on an expedition of so rapid a nature; +whilst brushes and other articles of that description were divided between +comrades, one carrying what would suffice for both. Thus the additional load of +twenty cartridges was more than counterbalanced by the clothing and necessaries +left behind. +</p> + +<p> +It was dusk when we reached the anchorage, consequently no landing could take +place before the morrow. But as the boats were ordered to be in readiness at +dawn, every man slept in his clothes, that he might be prepared to start at a +moment’s warning. There was something in this state of preparation at +once solemn and exciting. That we should obtain possession of a place so +important as Baltimore without fighting was not to be expected; and, therefore, +this arming and this bustle seemed in fact to be the prelude to a battle. But +no man of the smallest reflection can look forward to the chance of a sudden +and violent death without experiencing sensations very different from those +which he experiences under any other circumstances. When the battle has fairly +begun, I may say with truth that the feelings of those engaged are delightful; +because they are in fact so many gamblers playing for the highest stake that +can be offered. But the stir and noise of equipping, and then the calmness and +stillness of expectation, these are the things which force a man to think. On +the other hand, the warlike appearance of everything about you, the careless +faces and rude jokes of the private soldiers, and something within yourself, +which I can compare to nothing more seemly than the mirth which criminals are +said sometimes to experience and to express previous to their execution; all +these combine to give you a degree of false hilarity, I had almost said painful +from its very excess. It is an agitation of the nerves, such as we may suppose +madmen feel, which you are inclined to wish removed, though you are not +unwilling to admit that it is agreeable. +</p> + +<p> +And yet, as if in mockery of these deadly preparations, I do not recollect to +have seen a more heavenly night than the present. The heat of the day was past, +a full clear moon shone brightly in a sky where not a cloud could be discerned, +and a heavy dew falling appeared to refresh the earth, which had been parched +and burnt up by the sun. We lay at this time within two miles of the shore, +consequently every object there was distinctly visible. Around us were moored +numerous ships, which, breaking the tide as it flowed gently onwards, produced +a ceaseless murmur like the gushing of a mountain stream. The voices of the +sentinels too, as they relieved one another on the decks, and the occasional +splash of oars, as a solitary boat rowed backwards and forwards to the +Admiral’s ship for orders, sounded peculiarly musical in the perfect +stillness of a calm night. Though I am far from giving the preference, in all +respects, to a sailor’s life, it must nevertheless be confessed that it +has in it many moments of exquisite enjoyment, and the present seemed to me to +be of the number. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap13"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<h3>MARCH</h3> + +<p> +But the stillness of night soon passed away, and at three o’clock in the +morning every ship in the fleet began to lower her boats, and the soldiers were +roused from their slumbers. The same precautions which had been formerly used +to cover the landing were again adopted, several gun-brigs laying themselves +within cable’s length of the beach, and the leading boats in every +division being armed with carronades, loaded and ready for action. But, as had +been the case at St. Benedict’s, they were unnecessary, for the troops +reached the shore without opposition, and leisurely formed in an open field +close to the river. +</p> + +<p> +It was seven o’clock before the whole army was disembarked and in order +for marching. The same arrangements which had been made on the late expedition +were, as far as circumstances would permit, again adopted on this. The light +brigade, now commanded by Major Jones of the 4th regiment, led the advance; +then followed the artillery, amounting to six field-pieces and two howitzers, +all of them drawn by horses; next came the second brigade, then the sailors, +and last of all the third brigade. Flank patrols and reconnoitring parties were +likewise sent out; in short, the same admirable dispositions regulated the +present march which had governed our march to Washington. +</p> + +<p> +The column being put in motion, advanced, without the occurrence of any +incident deserving of notice, for about an hour, when it arrived at a piece of +ground which appeared as if it had been lately in possession of the enemy. It +was a narrow neck of land, confined between the river on one side, and the head +of a creek on the other, measuring, perhaps, a mile across. From the river to +the creek a breastwork had been begun, and was partly completed. In front of it +there were lines drawn, apparently for the purpose of marking out the width of +a ditch; in some places the ditch itself was dug, and the commencement of what +resembled an enfilading battery in the centre, showed that a considerable +degree of science had been displayed in the choice of this spot as a military +position. And, in truth, it was altogether such a position as, if completed, +might have been maintained by a determined force against very superior numbers. +Both flanks were completely protected, not only by water, but by thick wood, +while a gentle eminence in the very middle of the line offered the most +desirable situation for the projecting battery which had been begun; because a +fire from it would have swept the whole, both to the right and left. In its +present state, however, it was untenable, unless by a force as able to attack +as to defend; consequently the Americans, who acted solely on the defensive, +did wisely in choosing another. +</p> + +<p> +But the aspect of the ground was such as led us to conclude that the enemy +could not be very distant. The troops were accordingly halted, that the rear +might be well up, and the men fresh and ready for action. Whilst this was done +part of the flank patrol came in, bringing with them three light-horse men, as +prisoners. These were young gentlemen belonging to a corps of volunteers, +furnished by the town of Baltimore, who had been sent out to watch our motions, +and convey intelligence to the American General. Being but little accustomed to +such service, they had suffered themselves to be surprised; and, instead of +reporting to their own leader as to the number and dispositions of their +adversaries, they were now catechized by General Ross respecting the strength +and preparations of their friends. From them we learned that a force of no less +than twenty thousand men was embodied for the defence of Baltimore; but as the +accounts of prisoners are generally over-rated, we took it for granted that +they made their report only to intimidate. +</p> + +<h3>ATTACK</h3> + +<p> +Having rested for the space of an hour, we again moved forward, but had not +proceeded above a mile when a sharp fire of musketry was heard in front, and +shortly afterwards a mounted officer came galloping to the rear, who desired us +to quicken our pace, for that the advanced guard was engaged. At this +intelligence the ranks were closed, and the troops advanced at a brisk rate, +and in profound silence. The firing still continued, though, from its running +and irregular sound, it promised little else than a skirmish; but whether it +was kept up by detached parties alone, or by the outposts of a regular army, we +could not tell; because, from the quantity of wood with which the country +abounded, and the total absence of all hills or eminences, it was impossible to +discern what was going on at the distance of half a mile from the spot where we +stood. +</p> + +<p> +We were already drawing near to the scene of action, when another officer came +at full speed towards us, with horror and dismay in his countenance, and +calling loudly for a surgeon. Every man felt within himself that all was not +right, though none was willing to believe the whispers of his own terror. But +what at first we would not guess at, because we dreaded it so much, was soon +realized; for the aide-de-camp had scarcely passed, when the General’s +horse, without its rider, and with the saddle and housings stained with blood, +came plunging onwards. Nor was much time given for fearful surmise as to the +extent of our misfortune. In a few moments we reached the ground where the +skirmishing had taken place, and beheld General Ross laid by the side of the +road, under a canopy of blankets, and apparently in the agonies of death. As +soon as the firing began, he had ridden to the front, that he might ascertain +from whence it originated, and, mingling with the skirmishers, was shot in the +side by a rifleman. The wound was mortal: he fell into the arms of his +aide-de-camp, and lived only long enough to name his wife, and to commend his +family to the protection of his country. He was removed towards the fleet, but +expired before his bearers could reach the boats. +</p> + +<p> +It is impossible to conceive the effect which this melancholy spectacle +produced throughout the army. By the courteousness and condescension of his +manners, General Ross had secured the absolute love of all who served under +him, from the highest to the lowest; and his success on a former occasion, as +well as his judicious arrangements on the present, had inspired every one with +the most perfect confidence in his abilities. His very error, if error it may +be called, in so young a leader—I mean that diffidence in himself which +had occasioned some loss of time on the march to Washington, appeared now to +have left him. His movements were at once rapid and cautious; nay, his very +countenance indicated a fixed determination, and a perfect security of success. +All eyes were turned upon him as we passed, and a sort of involuntary groan ran +from rank to rank, from the front to the rear of the column. +</p> + +<p> +By the fall of our gallant leader, the command now devolved upon Colonel Brook, +of the 44th regiment, an officer of decided personal courage, but, perhaps, +better calculated to lead a battalion than to guide an army. Being informed of +his unexpected and undesired elevation, he came to the front, and under him we +continued to move on; sorrowful, indeed, but not dejected. The skirmishing had +now ceased, for the American riflemen were driven in; and in a few minutes we +found ourselves opposite to a considerable force, drawn up with some skill, and +occupying a strong position. Judging from appearances, I should say that the +corps now opposed to us amounted to six or seven thousand men. They covered a +neck of land, very much resembling that which we had passed; having both flanks +defended by little inland lakes; the whole of their position was well wooded, +and in front of their line was a range of high palings, similar to those which +intersected the field of Bladensburg. About the centre, though some way +advanced, was a farm-house, with its outbuildings and stack-yard; and near to +the right ran the main road. Their artillery, which could not greatly exceed +our own, either in weight of metal or number of guns, was scattered along the +line of infantry in nearly the same order as had been preserved at Bladensburg, +and their reserve was partly seen, and partly hid by a thick wood. +</p> + +<p> +The whole of this country is flat and unbroken. About half a mile in rear of +the enemy’s position were some heights, but to occupy these as they +should be occupied would have required a much greater number of men than the +American army could muster. Their General, therefore, exhibited some judgment +in his choice of ground, but, perhaps, he would have exhibited more had he +declined a pitched battle altogether. Yet, to do him justice, I repeat that the +ground was well chosen; for, besides the covering of wood which he secured for +his own people, he took care to leave open fields in his front; by which means +we were of necessity exposed to a galling fire, as soon as we came within +range. Of one error, however, he was guilty. Either he did not possess himself +of the farm-house at all, or he suffered it to be taken from him with very +little resistance; for on the arrival of the column at the ground where it was +to form, it was in the occupation of our advanced guard. He was likewise to +blame in not filling the wood upon our left with skirmishers. In short, he +acted unwisely in merely attempting to repel attacks, without ever dreaming +that the most effectual mode of so doing is to turn the tables, and attack the +assailants. +</p> + +<p> +As our troops came up they filed off to the right and left, and drew up just +within cannon shot in the following order. The light brigade, consisting, as I +have formerly stated, of the 85th regiment and the light companies of the other +corps, in extended order, threatened the whole front of the American army. The +21st remained in column upon the road; the 4th moved off to the right, and +advanced through a thicket to turn the enemy’s left; and the 44th, the +seamen and marines, formed line in rear of the light brigade. +</p> + +<p> +While this formation was going on, the artillery being brought up, opened upon +the American army, and a smart cannonade ensued on both sides. That our guns +were well served I myself can bear witness; for I saw the Shrapnel shells which +were thrown from them strike among the enemy, and make fearful gaps in the +line. Our rockets likewise began to play, one of which falling short, lighted +upon a haystack in the barn-yard belonging to the farm-house, and immediately +set it on fire. The house itself, the stables, barns, and outhouses, as well as +all the other stacks, one after another caught the flames, and were quickly in +a state of conflagration; and the smoke and blaze which they emitted, together +with the roar of cannon and flashes of the guns, produced altogether a very +fine effect. +</p> + +<p> +In the meantime the American artillery was not idle. Pushing forward two light +field-pieces upon the road, they opened a destructive fire of grape upon the +21st regiment, and such of the sailors as occupied that point. Three other guns +were directed against our artillery, between which and several of our pieces a +sort of duel was maintained; and the rest played without ceasing upon the 85th +and the light companies, who had lain down while the other regiments took up +their ground. Neither was their infantry altogether quiet. They marched several +strong bodies from the right to the left, and withdrew others from the left to +the right of their line, though for what end this marching and countermarching +was undertaken I am at a loss to conceive. While thus fluctuating it was +curious to observe their dread of every spot where a cannon-ball had struck. +Having seen the shots fall, I kept my eye upon one or two places, and perceived +that each company as it drew near to those points hung back; and then assuming +as it were a momentary courage, rushed past, leaving a vacancy between it and +the company which next succeeded. +</p> + +<p> +All this while the whole of our infantry, except the 4th regiment, lay or stood +in anxious expectation of an order to advance. This, however, was not given +till that corps had reached the thicket through which it was to make its way; +when Colonel Brook, with his staff, having galloped along the line to see that +all was ready, commanded the signal to be made. The charge was accordingly +sounded, and echoed back from every bugle in the army, when, starting from the +ground where they had lain, the troops moved on in a cool and orderly manner. A +dreadful discharge of grape and canister shot, of old locks, pieces of broken +muskets, and everything which they could cram into their guns, was now sent +forth from the whole of the enemy’s artillery, and some loss was on our +side experienced. Regardless of this, our men went on without either quickening +or retarding their pace, till they came within a hundred yards of the American +line. As yet not a musket had been fired, nor a word spoken on either side, but +the enemy, now raising a shout, fired a volley from right to left, and then +kept up a rapid and ceaseless discharge of musketry. Nor were our people +backward in replying to these salutes; for giving them back both their shout +and their volley, we pushed on at double-quick, with the intention of bringing +them to the charge. +</p> + +<p> +The bayonet is a weapon peculiarly British; at least it is a weapon which in +the hands of a British soldier is irresistible. Though they maintained +themselves with great determination, and stood to receive our fire till +scarcely twenty yards divided us, the Americans would not hazard a charge. On +the left, indeed, where the 21st advanced in column, it was not without much +difficulty and a severe loss that any attempt to charge could be made; for in +that quarter seemed to be the flower of the enemy’s infantry, as well as +the main body of their artillery; towards the right, however, the day was +quickly won. The only thing to be regretted, indeed, was that the attack had +not been for some time longer deferred; because the Americans were broken and +fled, just as the 4th regiment began to show itself upon the brink of the water +which covered their flank; and before a shallow part could be discovered, and +the troops were enabled to pass, they had time to escape. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as their left gave way, the whole American army fell into confusion; +nor do I recollect on any occasion to have witnessed a more complete rout. +Infantry, cavalry, and artillery were huddled together, without the smallest +regard to order or regularity. The sole object of anxiety seemed to be, which +should escape first from the field of battle; insomuch, that numbers were +actually trodden down by their countrymen in the hurry of the flight. Yet, in +spite of the short duration of the action, which lasted little more than two +hours from its first commencement, the enemy’s loss was severe. They +stood in some respects better than at Bladensburg, consequently we were more +mingled with them when they gave way, and were thus enabled to secure some +prisoners, an event which their more immediate flight had on the other occasion +prevented. In the capture of guns, however, we were not so fortunate. Their +pieces being light, and well supplied with horses, they contrived to carry off +all except two; both of which would have also escaped but for the shooting of +the leaders. +</p> + +<p> +I have said that the number of killed and wounded in the American army was very +great; in ours, on the other hand, the casualties were fewer by far than might +have been expected. The 21st and seamen suffered a good deal, the 85th and +light companies a little; but had our gallant General been spared, we should +have pronounced this a glorious, because a comparatively bloodless day. In the +loss of that one man, however, we felt ourselves more deeply wounded than if +the best battalion in the army had been sacrificed. +</p> + +<p> +In following up the flying enemy the same obstacles which presented themselves +at Bladensburg again came in the way. The thick woods quickly screened the +fugitives, and as even our mounted drivers were wanting, their horses having +been taken for the use of the artillery, no effectual pursuit could be +attempted. We accordingly halted upon the field of battle, of necessity content +with the success which we had obtained; and having collected the stragglers and +called in the pursuers, it was resolved to pass the night in this situation. +Fires were speedily lighted, and the troops distributed in such a manner as to +secure a tolerable position in case of attack; and the wounded being removed +into two or three houses scattered along the ground, the victors lay down to +sleep under the canopy of heaven. +</p> + +<p> +Having thus given a distinct and connected detail of this affair, I shall beg +leave to finish the present chapter with one or two anecdotes, which may not be +unamusing. It is said that when Admiral Cockburn, who accompanied the army, and +attended General Ross with the fidelity of an aide-de-camp, was in the wood +where the latter fell, he observed an American rifleman taking deliberate aim +at him from behind a tree. Instead of turning aside, or discharging a pistol at +the fellow, as any other man would have done, the brave Admiral, doubling his +fist, shook it at his enemy, and cried aloud, “O you d—d Yankee, +I’ll give it you!” upon which the man dropped his musket in the +greatest alarm, and took to his heels. +</p> + +<p> +It is likewise told of an officer of engineers, that having overtaken an +American soldier, and demanded his arms, the fellow gave him his rifle very +readily, but being ordered to resign a handsome silver-hilted dagger and +silver-mounted cartouch-box, which graced his side, he refused to comply, +alleging that they were private property, and that, by our own proclamations, +private property should be respected. This was an instance of low cunning which +reminded me of my own adventure with the squirrel-hunters, and which was +attended with equal success. +</p> + +<p> +One other anecdote, of a different nature, and for the truth of which I can +myself answer, may likewise be related. In strolling over the field of battle, +I came unexpectedly upon a wounded American, who lay among some bushes with his +leg broken. I drew near to offer him assistance, but on seeing me the wretch +screamed out, and appeared in the greatest alarm; nor was it without some +difficulty that I could persuade him he had nothing to fear. At last, being +convinced that I intended him no harm, the fellow informed me that it was +impressed upon the minds of the American levies that from the British they +might expect no quarter; and that it was consequently their determination to +give no quarter to the British troops. The fellow might belie his countrymen, +and I hope and believe he did, but such was his report to me. To convince him +of the erroneousness of his notions, I removed him to one of our hospitals, +where his leg was amputated; and he saw himself, as well as many others of his +wounded comrades, treated with the same attention which was bestowed upon our +own soldiers. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap14"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<p> +At an early hour on the 13th the troops were roused from their lairs, and +forming upon the ground, waited till daylight should appear. A heavy rain had +come on about midnight, and now fell with so much violence, that some +precautions were necessary, in order to prevent the firelocks from being +rendered useless by wet. Such of the men as were fortunate enough to possess +leathern cases, wrapped them round the locks of their muskets, whilst the rest +held them in the best manner they could, under their elbows; no man thinking of +himself, but only how he could best keep his arms in a serviceable condition. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as the first glimmering of dawn could be discerned, we moved to the +road, and took up our wonted order of march; but before we pushed forward, the +troops were desired to lighten themselves still further, by throwing off their +blankets, which were to be left under a slender guard till their return. This +was accordingly done; and being now unencumbered, except by a knapsack almost +empty, every man felt his spirits heightened in proportion to the diminution of +his load. The grief of soldiers is seldom of long duration, and though I will +not exactly say that poor Ross was already forgotten, the success of yesterday +had reconciled at least the privates to the guidance of their new leader; nor +was any other issue anticipated than what would have attended the excursion had +he still been its mainspring and director. +</p> + +<p> +The country through which we passed resembled, in every particular, that +already described. Wood and cultivation succeeded each other at intervals, +though the former surpassed the latter in tenfold extent; but instead of +deserted villages and empty houses, which had met us on the way to Washington, +we found most of the inhabitants remaining peaceably in their homes, and +relying upon the assurance of protection given to them in our proclamations. +Nor had they cause to repent of that confidence. In no instance were they +insulted, plundered, or ill-treated; whereas every house which was abandoned +fell a prey to the scouts and reconnoitring parties. +</p> + +<p> +But our march to-day was not so rapid as our motions generally were. The +Americans had at last adopted an expedient which, if carried to its proper +length, might have entirely stopped our progress. In most of the woods they had +felled trees, and thrown them across the road; but as these abattis were +without defenders, we experienced no other inconvenience than what arose from +loss of time; being obliged to halt on all such occasions till the pioneers had +removed the obstacle. So great, however, was even this hinderance, that we did +not come in sight of the main army of the Americans till evening, although the +distance travelled could not exceed ten miles. +</p> + +<p> +It now appeared that the corps which we had beaten yesterday was only a +detachment, and not a large one, from the force collected for the defence of +Baltimore; and that the account given by the volunteer troopers was in every +respect correct. Upon a ridge of hills, which concealed the town itself from +observation, stood the grand army, consisting of twenty thousand men. Not +trusting to his superiority in numbers, their General had there entrenched them +in the most formidable manner, having covered the whole face of the heights +with breastworks, thrown back his left so as to rest it upon a strong fort +erected for the protection of the river, and constructed a chain of field +redoubts which covered his right and commanded the entire ascent. Along the +side of the hill were likewise <i>flèches</i> and other projecting works, from +which a cross fire might be kept up; and there were mounted throughout this +commanding position no less than one hundred pieces of cannon. +</p> + +<p> +It would be absurd to suppose that the sight of preparations so warlike did not +in some degree damp the ardour of our leader; at least it would have been +madness to storm such works without pausing to consider how it might best be +attempted. The whole of the country within cannon-shot was cleared from wood, +and laid out in grass and corn-fields; consequently there was no cover to +shelter an attacking army from any part of the deadly fire which would be +immediately poured upon it. The most prudent plan, therefore, was to wait till +dark; and then, assisted by the frigates and bombs, which he hoped were by this +time ready to co-operate, to try the fortune of a battle. +</p> + +<p> +Having resolved thus to act, Colonel Brook halted his army; and, secured +against surprise by a well-connected line of piquets, the troops were permitted +to light fires and to cook their provisions. But though the rain still fell in +torrents, no shelter could be obtained; and as even their blankets were no +longer at hand, with which to form gipsy-tents, this was the reverse of an +agreeable bivouac to the whole army. +</p> + +<p> +Darkness had now come on, and as yet no intelligence had arrived from the +shipping. To assail such a position, however, without the aid of the fleet, was +deemed impracticable; at least our chance of success would be greatly +diminished without their co-operation. As the left of the American army +extended to a fort built upon the very brink of the river, it was clear that +could the ships be brought to bear upon that point, and the fort be silenced by +their fire, that flank of the position would be turned. This once effected, +there would be no difficulty in pushing a column within their works; and as +soldiers entrenched always place more reliance upon the strength of their +entrenchments than upon their own personal exertions, the very sight of our +people on a level with them would in all probability decide the contest. At all +events, as the column was to advance under cover of night, it might easily push +forward and crown the hill above the enemy, before any effectual opposition +could be offered; by which means they would be enclosed between two fires, and +lose the advantage which their present elevated situation bestowed. All, +however, depended upon the ability of the fleet to lend their assistance; for +without silencing the fort, this flank could scarcely be assailed with any +chance of success, and, therefore, the whole plan of operations must be +changed. +</p> + +<h3>SEARCH.</h3> + +<p> +Having waited till it was considered imprudent to wait longer, without knowing +whether he was to be supported, Colonel Brook determined, if possible, to open +a communication with the fleet. That the river could not be far off we knew, +but how to get to it without falling in with wandering parties of the enemy was +the difficulty. The thing, however, must be done; and as secrecy, and not +force, was the main object, it was resolved to dispatch for the purpose a +single officer without an escort. On this service a particular friend of mine +chanced to be employed. Mounting his horse, he proceeded to the right of the +army, where, having delayed a few minutes till the moon rising gave light +enough through the clouds to distinguish objects, he pushed forward at a +venture, in as straight a line as he could guess at. It was not long before his +progress was stopped by a high hedge. Like knight-errants of old, he then gave +himself up to the guidance of his horse, which taking him towards the rear, +soon brought him into a narrow lane, that appeared to wind in the direction of +the enemy’s fort: this lane he determined to follow, and holding a cocked +pistol in his hand, pushed on, not perhaps entirely comfortable, but desirous +at all hazards of executing his commission. He had not ridden far, when the +sound of voices through the splashing of the rain arrested his attention. +Pulling up, he listened in silence, and soon discovered that they came from two +American soldiers, whether stragglers or sentinels it was impossible to divine; +but whoever they were, they seemed to be approaching. It now struck him that +his safest course would be to commence the attack, and having therefore waited +till he saw them stop short, as if they had perceived him, he rode forward, and +called out to them to surrender. The fellows turned and fled, but galloping +after them, he overtook one, at whose head he presented a pistol, and who +instantly threw down his rifle, and yielded himself prisoner; whilst the other, +dashing into a thicket, escaped, probably to tell that he had been attacked by +a whole regiment of British cavalry. Having thus taken a prisoner, my friend +resolved to make him of some use; with this view he commanded him to lay hold +of his thigh, and to guide him directly to the river, threatening, if he +attempted to mislead or betray him into the hands of the Americans, that he +would instantly blow out his brains. Finding himself completely in my +friend’s power, the fellow could not refuse to obey; and accordingly, the +man resting his hand upon the left thigh of the officer, they proceeded along +the lane for some time, till they came to a part where it branched off in two +directions. My friend here stopped for a moment; and again repeated his threat, +swearing that the instant his conduct became suspicious should be the last of +his life. The soldier assured him that he would keep his word, and moreover +informed him that some of our ships were almost within gun-shot of the fort; a +piece of information which was quickly confirmed by the sound of firing, and +the appearance of shells in the air. They now struck to the right, and in half +an hour gained the brink of the river: where my friend found a party just +landed from the squadron, and preparing to seek their way towards the camp. By +them he was conducted to the Admiral, from whom he learnt that no effectual +support could be given to the land force; for such was the shallowness of the +river, that none except the very lightest craft could make their way within six +miles of the town; and even these were stopped by vessels sunk in the channel, +and other artificial bars, barely within a shell’s longest range of the +fort. With this unwelcome news he was accordingly forced to return; and taking +his unwilling guide along with him, he made his way, without any adventure, to +our advanced posts; where, having thanked the fellow for his fidelity, he +rewarded it more effectually by setting him at liberty. +</p> + +<p> +Having brought his report to head-quarters, a council of war was instantly +summoned to deliberate upon what was best to be done. Without the help of the +fleet, it was evident that, adopt what plan of attack we could, our loss must +be such as to counterbalance even success itself; whilst success, under +existing circumstances, was, to say the least of it, doubtful. And even if we +should succeed, what would be gained by it? We could not remove anything from +Baltimore, for want of proper conveyances. Had the ships been able to reach the +town, then, indeed, the quantity of booty might have repaid the survivors for +their toil, and consoled them for the loss of comrades; but as the case now +stood, we should only fight to give us an opportunity of reacting +/re-enacting?/ the scenes of Washington. To distress an enemy is, no doubt, +desirable, but, in the present instance, that distress, even if brought upon +the Americans, would cost us dear; whereas, if we failed, it was hardly +possible to avoid destruction. +</p> + +<h3>MARCH.</h3> + +<p> +Such was the reasoning which influenced the council of war to decide that all +idea of storming the enemy’s lines should be given up. To draw them from +their works would require manoeuvring, and manoeuvring requires time; but +delays were all in their favour, and could not possibly advantage us. Every +hour brought in reinforcements to their army, whereas ours had no source from +which even to recruit its losses; and it was, therefore, deemed prudent, since +we could not fight at once, to lose no time in returning to the shipping. +</p> + +<p> +About three hours after midnight the troops were accordingly formed upon the +road, and began their retreat, leaving the piquets to deceive the enemy, and to +follow, as a rear-guard. The rain, which had continued with little interruption +since the night before, now ceased, and the moon shone out bright and clear. We +marched along, therefore, not in the same spirits as if we had been advancing, +but feeling no debasement at having thus relinquished an enterprise so much +beyond our strength. +</p> + +<p> +When the day broke, our piquets, which had withdrawn about an hour before, +rejoined us, and we went on in a body. Marching over the field where the battle +of the 12th had been fought, we beheld the dead scattered about, and still +unburied; but so far different from those which we had seen at Bladensburg, +that they were not stripped, every man lying as he had fallen. One object, +however, struck me as curious. I saw several men hanging lifeless among the +branches of trees, and learnt that they had been riflemen, who chose, during +the battle, to fix themselves in these elevated situations, for the combined +purposes of securing a good aim and avoiding danger. Whatever might be their +success in the first of these designs, in the last they failed; for our men +soon discovered them, and, considering the thing as unfair, refused to give +them quarter, and shot them on their perches. +</p> + +<p> +Here we paused for about an hour, that the soldiers might collect their +blankets and refresh themselves; when we again moved forward, passing the wood +where the gallant Ross was killed. It was noon, and as yet all had gone on +smoothly with out any check or alarm. So little indeed was pursuit dreamt of, +that the column began to straggle, and to march without much regard to order; +when suddenly the bugle sounded from the rear, and immediately after some +musket shots were heard. In an instant the men were in their places, and the +regiments wheeled into line, facing towards the enemy. The artillery turned +round and advanced to the front; indeed I have never seen a manoeuvre more +coolly or more steadily performed on a parade in England than this rally. The +alarm, however, turned out to be groundless, being occasioned only by the +sudden appearance of a squadron of horse, which had been sent out by the +American General to track our steps. These endeavoured to charge the +rear-guard, and succeeded in making two prisoners; but a single Shrapnel +checked their farther advance, and sent them back at full speed to boast of the +brave exploit which they had performed. +</p> + +<p> +Seeing that no attack was seriously intended, the army broke once more into the +line of march, and proceeded to a favourable piece of ground, near the +uncompleted position which I have already described, where we passed the night +under little tents made with blankets and ramrods. No alarm occurring, nor any +cause of delay appearing, at daybreak we again got under arms, and pushed on +towards the shipping, which in two hours were distinguishable. +</p> + +<h3>RE-EMBARKATION.</h3> + +<p> +The infantry now halted upon a narrow neck of land, while the artillery was +lifted into boats, and conveyed on board the fleet. As soon as this was done, +brigade after brigade fell back to the water’s edge and embarked, till +finally all, except the light troops, were got off. These being left to cover +the embarkation, were extended across the entire space which but a little +before contained the whole army; but as no attempt was made to molest them, +they had only the honour of being the last to quit the shore. +</p> + +<p> +Were I to enter into a review of the military proceedings in this expedition, I +should be condemned to repeat, almost word for word, the remarks which I +ventured to make upon the operations previous to the capture of Washington. On +the present occasion, however, neither hesitation nor precipitancy was +displayed by the British General. He threw his valuable life away, indeed, by +exposing his person unnecessarily in a trifling skirmish; but who will blame a +soldier for excess of courage, or a leader for excess of alertness? Like other +able men, he was unwilling to trust to the report of his subalterns, when it +was in his power to ascertain what he sought to know by personal observation; +and, like other brave men, he would not be deterred from prosecuting his design +by the apprehension of danger. In the plan of the expedition here, he displayed +both skill and resolution. Instead of wasting time by an attempt to ascend the +river, he chose to land where he was least likely to meet with immediate +opposition; and such was the celerity of his motions, that, had he lived, the +chances are that we should have fought two battles in one day. But of what a +man might have done, I have nothing to say; let me rather do justice to his +successor and his advisers. Of these latter, there is one whom it would be +improper not to mention by name—I mean Lieutenant Evans, Deputy-Assistant +Quartermaster-General. The whole arrangement of our troops in order of battle +was committed to him; and the judicious method in which they were drawn up, +proved that he was not unworthy of the trust. With respect to the determination +of the council of war, I choose to be silent. Certain it is, that the number of +our forces would hardly authorise any desperate attempt; yet had the attempt +been made, I have very little doubt that it would have been made successfully. +</p> + +<p> +On the part of the Americans, again, the same blunders were committed which +marked their proceedings during the incursion to Washington, with this +exception, that more science was displayed now than formerly in the +distribution of their forces along their principal position. At Bladensburg, +indeed, there existed no works, and the troops were badly arranged in an open +country: here there were not only fortifications, but fortifications +constructed in a scientific manner, and troops drawn up in such order, as that, +even without their works, many cross fires would have protected their front. +But they neglected numerous favourable opportunities of harassing both our +advance and retreat. They felled trees, but left no guards to keep them from +being removed, and took no advantage of the delays which their removal created. +They risked a battle with a part of their army, when there was no necessity for +it; in a word, they committed all those errors which men generally commit who +are not soldiers, and yet love war. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap15"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2> + +<h3>THE PATUXENT.</h3> + +<p> +Having once more received the troops on board, the fleet remained quietly at +anchor till the 17th, when, at an early hour, we set sail and stood towards the +Patuxent. In this voyage we passed close to Sent Island, and again threw the +inhabitants of Anapolis into alarm by approaching almost within gun-shot of +their town; but at neither place were hostilities attempted, and on the 19th we +arrived, without any adventure, at our former anchorage in the river. Here we +brought up, and parties were sent on shore to dig wells in the sand, to which +the boats resorted in great numbers for water. Cattle and sheep were likewise +purchased from the natives; some of the flour which had been captured was +converted into biscuit; and every preparation seemed to be making for a long +voyage. +</p> + +<p> +To facilitate these operations, the fleet now separated, part remaining here, +and part proceeding under Admiral Malcolm to the Potomac; whilst Sir Alexander +Cochrane, in the Tonnant, with several frigates and gun-brigs, quitted us +altogether, and set sail, as it was given out, for Halifax. But our situation +was by no means agreeable. The climate of this part of America is, at certain +seasons, far from healthy; and the prevalence of dysentery through the armament +proved that the unhealthy season had already commenced. Neither did there +appear to be any prospect of further employment. No one talked of a future +enterprise, nor was the slightest rumour circulated as to the next point of +attack. The death of General Ross seemed to have disorganized the whole plan of +proceedings, and the fleet and army rested idle, like a watch without its main +spring. +</p> + +<p> +Whilst things were in this state, whilst the banks of the rivers continued in +our possession, and the interior was left unmolested to the Americans, a rash +confidence sprang up in the minds of all, insomuch that parties of pleasure +would frequently land without arms, and spend many hours onshore. On one of +these occasions, several officers from the 85th regiment agreed to pass a day +together at a farm-house, about a quarter of a mile from the stream; and taking +with them ten soldiers, unarmed, to row the boat, a few sailors, and a young +midshipman, not more than twelve years of age, they proceeded to put their +determination into practice. Leaving the men, under the command of their +youthful pilot, to take care of the boat, the officers went on to the house; +but they had not remained there above an hour, when they were alarmed by a +shout, which sounded as if it came from the river. Looking, out, they beheld +their party surrounded by seventy or eighty mounted riflemen; the boat dragged +upon the beach, and set on fire. Giving themselves up for lost, they continued +for an instant in a sort of stupor; but the master of the house, to whom some +kindness had been shown by our people, proved himself grateful, and, letting +them out by a back door, directed them to bide themselves in the wood, whilst +he should endeavour to turn their pursuers on a wrong scent. As they had +nothing to trust to except the honour of this American, it cannot be supposed +that they felt much at ease; but, seeing no better course before them, they +resigned themselves to his guidance, and plunging into the thicket, concealed +themselves as well as they could among the underwood. In the mean time the +American soldiers, having secured all that were left behind, except the young +midshipman, who fled into the wood in spite of their fire, divided into two +bodies, one of which approached the house, whilst the other endeavoured to +overtake the brave boy. It so chanced that the party in pursuit passed close to +the officers in concealment, but by the greatest good fortune failed to observe +them. They succeeded, however, in catching a glimpse of the midshipman, just as +he had gained the water’s edge, and was pushing off a light canoe which +he had loosened from the stump of a tree. The barbarians immediately gave +chase, firing at the brave lad, and calling out to surrender; but the gallant +youth paid no attention either to their voices or their bullets. Launching his +little bark, he put to sea with a single paddle, and, regardless of the showers +of balls which fell about him, returned alone and unhurt to the ship. Whilst +one party was thus employed, the other hastened to the house in full +expectation of capturing the British officers. But their host kept his word +with great fidelity, and, having directed his countrymen towards another +farm-house at some distance from his own, and in an opposite quarter from the +spot where his guests lay, he waited till they were out of sight, and then +joined his new friends in their lurking-place. Bringing with him such +provisions as he could muster, he advised them to keep quiet till dark, when, +their pursuers having departed, he conducted them to the river, supplied them +with a large canoe, and sent them off in perfect safety to the fleet. +</p> + +<p> +On reaching their ship, they found the 85th regiment under arms, and preparing +to land, for the purpose of either releasing their comrades from captivity, or +inflicting exemplary punishment upon the farmer by whose treachery it was +supposed that they had suffered. But when the particulars of his behaviour were +related, the latter alternative was at once abandoned; and it was determined to +force a dismissal of the captives, by advancing up the country, and laying +waste every thing with fire and sword. The whole of the light brigade was +accordingly carried on shore, and halted on the beach, whilst a messenger was +sent forward to demand back the prisoners. Such, however, was the effect of his +threatening, that the demand was at once complied with, and they returned on +board without having committed any ravages, or marched above two miles from the +boats. +</p> + +<h3>THE POTOMAC</h3> + +<p> +Besides this trifling debarkation, another little excursion was made by the +second and third brigades, the light troops being left most unaccountably on +board of ship, Colonel Brook, having heard that an encampment was formed a few +miles from the left bank of the Potomac, determined, if possible, to come up +with and engage the force there stationed. With this view, two brigades were +landed on the night of the 4th of October, and pushed forward at a brisk pace; +but the enemy, being on the alert, had timely notice of the movement, and +retired; by which means our people returned on the 5th, without effecting +anything. +</p> + +<h3>THE CHESAPEAKE.</h3> + +<p> +By this time the whole fleet was once more collected together; and crowded the +Potomac with their keels. The Diadem being an old ship and a bad sailer, it was +determined to remove from her the troops which she had formerly carried, to +fill her with American prisoners, and to send her to England. The Menelaus was +likewise dispatched with such officers and soldiers as required the benefit of +their native air to complete the cure of their wounds; and the rest, getting +under weigh on the 6th, stood directly towards the mouth of the Chesapeake. +When we reached the James River, we anchored, and were joined by an American +schooner bearing a flag of truce. She brought with her Colonel Thornton, Lieut. +Colonel Wood, with the rest of the officers and men who had been left behind at +Bladensburg, and, being under the guidance of Commodore Barney, that gentleman +was enabled to discharge his trust even to the very letter. +</p> + +<p> +It may readily be supposed that the meeting between friends thus restored to +each other was very agreeable. But there was another source of comfort which +this arrival communicated, of greater importance than the pleasure bestowed +upon individuals. In Colonel Thornton we felt that we had recovered a dashing +and enterprising officer; one as well calculated to lead a corps of light +troops, and to guide the advance of an army, as any in the service. On the +whole, therefore, the American schooner was as welcome as if she had been a +first-rate man-of-war filled with reinforcements from England. +</p> + +<p> +The wounded being now sent off, and Colonel Wood among the number, the +remainder of the fleet again set sail, and reached the mouth of the bay without +interruption. Here they were met by a frigate and two brigs, which spoke to the +Admiral, and apparently communicated some important intelligence; for we +immediately put about and stood once more up the Chesapeake. The wind, however, +blew with great violence, and directly against us. After beating about, +therefore, for some time, without making any progress, we turned our heads +towards the ocean, and flying between the Capes with amazing velocity, stood +out to sea, directing our course towards the S.S.E., and proceeding at the rate +of seven miles an hour under bare poles. The sea ran tremendously high, and the +sky was dark and dreary; insomuch that by a landsman the gale might safely be +accounted a storm. Under these circumstances, the ship rolling as if she would +dip her topmasts in the water, and the waves breaking in at the back windows of +the cabin, nothing remained to be done but to go to bed. Thither most of us +accordingly repaired, and holding ourselves in our berths by clinging to the +posts, we amused ourselves by watching the motions of stools, books, trunks, +and other articles, as they floated majestically from one side of the cabin to +the other. But the effects of the gale were not in every respect ludicrous. Two +small schooners, which had been captured at Alexandria and converted into +tenders, foundered and went down, without an opportunity being afforded of +saving an individual of their crews. +</p> + +<h3>AT SEA.</h3> + +<p> +At length the wind began to moderate, and on the 18th there was a dead calm. In +point of comfort, however, I cannot say that much change was experienced; for +though the gale had ceased, the swell still continued; and the motion produced +by a heavy sea after a storm is even more disagreeable than that occasioned by +the storm itself. But on this day the minds of all were set at ease as to the +place whither we were going, a telegraph signal being made to steer for +Jamaica. It was likewise understood that we should be there joined by strong +reinforcements, and proceed upon a secret expedition against some place on the +southern borders of the United States. +</p> + +<p> +The calm which had succeeded the storm did not last long, for on the 19th a +fair breeze sprang up, and sent us at a moderate and agreeable rate upon our +course. The heat, however, was most oppressive; even awnings being unable to +afford sufficient shelter. We were fast approaching the tropic of Cancer, and +every day experienced a greater degree of sultriness; till at length, on the +25th, we crossed that imaginary boundary. Here we were visited, according to +custom, by Neptune and his wife; and as the ceremony of shaving may be unknown +to some of my readers, I shall beg leave to relate the particulars of that +operation. +</p> + +<p> +A clever active seaman, dressed up grotesquely in party-coloured rags, adorned +with a long beard made of the stuff which sailors call spun-yarn, and armed +with a tri-pronged harpoon, personates the God of the Ocean. Another seaman, +arrayed in like manner, except that, instead of a beard, he wears a hideous +mask, performs the part of the lady. These are attended by a troop of sea-gods +and nymphs, similarly equipped; and advancing from the bow of the vessel, as if +just stepped on board, they come forward to the mainmast, and summon before +them all such persons as have never sworn the oaths or previously visited their +capital. At the foot of the mast is placed a large tub full of sea-water, and +covered by a piece of canvas, which is held tight by four of their attendants. +Upon this unsteady throne is the luckless wight, whom they design to initiate, +compelled to sit; and being asked several questions, which he cannot answer, +and taking several oaths, very much resembling those said to be administered at +Highgate, Neptune proceeds to confer upon him the honour of filiation, by +rather an extraordinary process. Two of the sea-nymphs, generally tall stout +fellows, pinion his arms to his sides; and another, bringing a bucket filled +with grease and slops from the kitchen, sets it down at his godship’s +feet, putting a small painting-brush into his hand. Neptune now dips his brush +into the filth, and proceeds to spread a lather over the face of the novice, +taking care to ask questions during the whole process; and if the adopted be +simple enough to reply, the brush is instantly thrust into his mouth. As soon +as a sufficient quantity of grease is laid upon the face, Neptune seizes a +piece of rusty iron, generally the broken hoop of some water-cask, with which +he scrapes off all that has been applied. If the novice take all this +patiently, his face is washed, and he is permitted to descend from his throne +in peace; but if he lose his temper, which most men are apt to do, a bucket of +sea-water is poured upon his head. If this be sufficient to cool his wrath, he +suffers no more; but if it only increase his indignation, bucket after bucket +is emptied over him, and at last, the holders of the sail-cloth suddenly +retiring, he is plunged overhead into the tub. To crown all, the unfortunate +wretch who has endured these miseries is fined by his tormentor in a gallon of +ruin; a fine which the force of custom compels him to pay. It must be confessed +that this is a barbarous amusement, much resembling that of the boys in the +fable of the boys and the frogs. Though very agreeable to those who act and to +the lookers on, it is not so to him that suffers. +</p> + +<p> +In this manner many persons were treated, till at length Neptune, growing weary +from the number of novices, was content to admit the rest to the privileges of +initiation, on condition that the fines should be punctually paid; an agreement +into which most of us very thankfully entered. +</p> + +<h3>THE WEST INDIES.</h3> + +<p> +Next morning, the first object which met our eyes was the land of Caycos +island. We were so close to the shore, when daylight discovered it, that had +the wind been at all adverse we must unquestionably have struck; but being +assisted by a fair and gentle breeze, the ships put about immediately, and +escaped the danger. Standing out to sea, the fleet now doubled the promontory, +and steering round by the other side, sailed on without losing sight of the +land till late in the evening. +</p> + +<p> +On the following day, a signal was made from the Admiral’s ship, that the +Golden Fleece transport, under convoy of the Volcano bomb, should proceed to +Port Royal, whilst the rest of the fleet held their course towards Negril Bay. +These two vessels accordingly set all sail, and pushed forward by themselves; +the others keeping on at a more moderate rate, that none might stray from the +convoy: for the West India seas at this time swarmed with American privateers, +and it was of great consequence to keep the store-ships and heavy transports in +the middle of the squadron. +</p> + +<p> +It so chanced that I took my passage in one of the two ships which proceeded +forward by themselves. The wind was fair, and we made great progress, insomuch +that before dark the high land of St. Domingo on one side, and the mountains of +Cuba on the other, were discernible. In spite of the heat, therefore, our +voyage soon became truly delightful. Secure of getting on under the influence +of the trade winds, we had nothing to distract our thoughts, or keep us from +feasting our eyes upon the glorious shores of these two islands; whilst in +addition to the sight of land, which of itself was cheering, we were amused +with water-spouts, apparently playing about us in every direction. One of +these, however, began to form within a little distance of the ship, and as they +are dangerous as well as interesting, a cannon was got ready to break it before +it should reach us. But it did not complete its formation, though I cannot tell +why; for, after one spout had risen into the air some height, and another bent +down from the clouds to meet it, they were suddenly carried away in different +directions, and fell into the sea with the noise of a cataract. +</p> + +<p> +Among other sources of amusement, our attention was drawn, on the 29th, to a +shark, which made its appearance at the stern of the vessel. A strong hook was +immediately prepared, and baited with a piece of salt pork, which being thrown +over, was instantly gulped by the voracious monster. But as soon as he felt the +pain occasioned by the book in his jaws, he plunged towards the bottom of the +sea with such violence, as to render the very tafferel hot, by the rapidity of +the cord gliding over it. Having permitted him to go a certain length, he was +again hauled up to the surface, where he remained without offering further +resistance, till a boat was lowered, and a strong noose thrown over his head. +Being thus made fast to the gunwale of the boat, he was brought round to the +gangway, when the end of the noose being cast over the main-yard, he was lifted +out of the sea and swung upon the ship’s deck. Hitherto he had suffered +quietly enough, in apparent stupefaction from the pain of his jaw; but he began +now to convince us that neither life nor strength had deserted him; lashing his +tail with such violence as speedily to clear the quarter-deck, and biting in +the most furious manner at everything within his reach. One of the sailors, +however, who seemed to understand these matters more than his comrades, took an +axe, and watching his opportunity, at one, blow chopped off his tail. He was +now perfectly harmless, unless, indeed, one had chosen to thrust one’s +hand into his mouth; and the same sailor accordingly proceeded to lay him open, +and to take out his entrails. And now it was that the tenacity of life, +peculiar to these animals, displayed itself. After his heart and bowels were +taken out; the shark still continued to exhibit proofs of animation, by biting +with as much force as ever at a bag of carpenter’s tools that happened to +lie within his reach. +</p> + +<p> +Being cut up, he was distributed in portions among the soldiers and the +ship’s crew. The tail part only was reserved as the chief delicacy for +our cabin, which, though dry and hard, with little flavour or taste, was on the +present occasion considered as agreeable food, because it was fresh. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap16"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> + +<p> +But what I principally relished, in this part of our voyage, was the exquisite +beauty of its night-scenery. To an inhabitant of Great Britain, the splendour +of a night-scene in these climates is altogether unknown. Shining broad and +full in a sky perfectly cloudless, the moon sends forth a clear and mellow +lustre, little inferior, in point of brilliancy, to the full twilight in +England. By this means you never lose sight of land, either by night or day, as +long as your course lies between Cuba and St. Domingo; whilst the delicious +coolness, which follows the setting of the sun, tempts you, in spite of all the +whispers of prudence, to expose yourself to dews and damps, rather than forego +the pleasures of which they are the bane. Besides, you have constantly the +satisfaction of observing yourself move steadily on at the most agreeable of +all rates, about five or six miles an hour; a satisfaction far from trifling in +a sea-life. Then the ocean is so smooth, that scarcely a ripple is seen to +break the moon-beams as they fall; whilst the quiet dash of little waves +against the ship’s side, and the rushing noise occasioned by the moving +of her bow through the water, produce altogether an effect which may, without +affectation, be termed absolutely refreshing. It was my common practice to sit +for hours after night-fall upon the tafferel, and strain my eyes in the attempt +to distinguish objects on shore or strange sails in the distance. +</p> + +<p> +It happened that, on the 30th, I was tempted to indulge in this idle but +bewitching employment, even beyond my usual hour for retiring, and did not quit +the deck till towards two o’clock in the morning of the 31st. I had just +entered my cabin, and was beginning to undress, when a cry from above, of an +enemy in chase, drew me instantly to the quarter-deck. On looking astern, I +perceived a vessel making directly after us, and was soon convinced of the +justice of the alarm, by a shot which whistled over our heads. All hands were +now called to quarters, the small sails were taken in, and having spoken to our +companion, and made an agreement as to position, both ships cleared for action. +But the stranger, seeing his signal obeyed with so much alacrity, likewise +slackened sail, and, continuing to keep us in view, followed our wake without +approaching nearer. In this state things continued till daybreak, we still +holding our course, and he hanging back; but as soon as it was light, he set +more sail and ran to windward, moving just out of gun-shot, in a parallel +direction with us. It was now necessary to fall upon some plan of deceiving +him, otherwise there was little probability that he would attack. In the bomb, +indeed, the height of the bulwark served to conceal some of the men; but in the +transport no such screen existed. The troops were, therefore, ordered below, +and only the sailors, a few blacks, and the officers, kept the deck. The same +expedient was likewise adopted, in part, by Captain Price, of the Volcano; and +in order to give to his ship a still greater resemblance than it already had to +a merchantman, he displayed an old faded scarlet ensign, and drew up his fore +and mainsail in what sailors term a lubberly manner. +</p> + +<p> +As yet the stranger had shown no colours, but, from her build and rigging, +there was little doubt as to her country. She was a beautiful schooner, +presenting seven ports on a side, and apparently crowded with men, +circumstances which immediately led us to believe that she was an American +privateer. The Volcano, on the other hand, was a clumsy strong-built ship, +carrying twelve guns; and the Golden Fleece mounted eight; so that, in point of +artillery, the advantage was rather on our side; but the American’s +sailing was so much superior to that of either of us, that this advantage was +more than counterbalanced. +</p> + +<p> +Having dodged us till eight o’clock, and reconnoitred with great +exactness, the stranger began to steer gradually nearer and nearer, till at +length it was judged that she had arrived within range. A gun was accordingly +fired from the Volcano, and another from the transport, the balls from both of +which passed over her and fell into the sea. Finding herself thus assaulted, +she instantly threw off her disguise, and hung out an American ensign; when, +putting her helm up, she poured a broadside, with a volley of musketry, into +the transport; and ran alongside of the bomb, which sailed to windward. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as her flag was displayed, and her intention of attacking discerned, +all hands were ordered up, and she received two well-directed broadsides from +the Volcano, as well as a warm salute from the Golden Fleece. But such was the +celerity of her motion, that she was alongside of the bomb in less time than +can be imagined; and actually dashing her bow against the other, attempted to +carry her by boarding. Captain Price, however, was ready to receive them. The +boarders were at their posts in an instant, and the enemy discovering, when it +was too late, the mistake into which he had fallen, left about twenty of his +men upon the Volcano’s bowsprit, all of whom were thrown into the sea; +and filling his sails, sheered off with the same speed with which he had borne +down. In attempting to escape, he unavoidably fell somewhat to leeward, and +exposed the whole of his deck to the fire of the transport. A tremendous +discharge of musketry saluted him as he passed; and it was almost laughable to +witness the haste with which his crew hurried below, leaving none upon deck +except such as were absolutely wanted to work his vessel. +</p> + +<p> +The Volcano had by this time filled, and gave chase, firing with great +precision at the privateer’s yards and rigging, in the hope of disabling +him. But as fortune would have it, none of his important ropes or yards were +cut; and we had the mortification to see him, in a few minutes, beyond our +reach. +</p> + +<p> +In this affair, a marine officer and two men were killed on board the bomb; and +some of the tackling was shot away. The transport suffered nothing in killed or +wounded, having been in a great degree protected from the enemy’s fire by +her commodore; and only one rope, not, I believe, an important one, was +destroyed. +</p> + +<p> +The battle having ended, and the chase being given up as fruitless, we +continued our course without any other adventure; and before dark were able to +distinguish the blue mountains of Jamaica. St. Domingo and Cuba had both +disappeared, and this was now the only land visible; but it was not till the +1st of November that we could obtain a distinct view of it. Then, indeed, we +found ourselves within a few miles of the shore, and seldom has landscape +appeared more attractive to the eyes of a voyager, than the romantic shores of +Jamaica now appeared to ours. +</p> + +<p> +Jamaica is in general a bold and mountainous island, but on this side it is +peculiarly so. It appeared to me that even the Pyrenees, magnificent as they +are, were not to be compared, in point of altitude, to the hills now before me; +and early in the morning, while yet the mists hung upon their summits and +concealed them, no prospect can be imagined more sublime than that which they +presented. It was, in truth, a glorious scene; and as the wind blew light and +uncertain, we were permitted, from the slowness of the ship’s progress, +to enjoy it to the full. Towards evening, indeed, the breeze died entirely +away, which compelled us to anchor about eight miles from the harbour of Port +Royal. +</p> + +<h3>PORT ROYAL.</h3> + +<p> +In spite of the little rest which I had procured during the two preceding +nights, having sat up till an early hour this morning, to watch several strange +sails that hovered about us, I could not bring myself to quit the deck till +after midnight, so beautiful, in all respects, were the objects around me. The +moon shone with her accustomed brilliancy, and exhibited every crag and tree +upon the land, changed and confounded in shape, but still plainly; whilst the +perfume, borne off upon the breeze, was odoriferous in the highest degree. The +sound of the waves, likewise, breaking upon the rocks, and the occasional cry +of seamen, as they adjusted ropes and sails, together with the sight of several +vessels which took advantage of the night-wind and stood to sea, with canvas +glittering in the moonbeams, produced so delightful a combination, as +completely riveted me to my seat; nor was it without much reluctance that I at +length yielded to the drowsy god, and descended to my cabin. +</p> + +<p> +Next morning, the ship got under weigh at an early hour, but, owing to the +unsteadiness of the breeze, it was ten o’clock before we made any +satisfactory progress. As we approached the bay which forms the harbour of Port +Royal, a novel and pleasing sight presented itself. The hills dying gradually +away, gave place to gentle slopes and green knolls, till, towards the entrance, +the coast became perfectly level. Pushing forward, we soon found ourselves in a +narrow channel between two projecting headlands, beautifully ornamented with +cocoa-nut trees, and so near to each other, that I could with ease have thrown +a biscuit from the ship’s deck upon either. At the extremity of these +necks, just where the bay begins its sweep, stand two well-built forts, +bristling with cannon; and at the opposite side may be seen a third, ready to +sink whatever hostile fleet should be fortunate enough to force an entrance. +But these were not the most striking parts of the scene. The water in this +strait is remarkably clear, and exhibits with great distinctness the tops and +chimneys of houses at the bottom. It will be recollected, that many years ago, +an earthquake not only demolished great part of the town of Port Royal, but +likewise covered it with the sea; by which means, the site of the harbour was +completely changed, and that which was formerly dry land, and a town, became +part of the entrance of the bay. +</p> + +<p> +Having doubled the promontories, a rich and extensive prospect meets the eye. +You find yourself, as it were, in a large inland lake, the banks of which are +covered with plantations of sugar cane, groves of cocoa-nut and plantain trees, +and other woods peculiar to these regions, beautifully interspersed with seats +and villages. On your right is the town of Port Royal, lying almost on a level +with the water, and strongly protected by fortifications, whilst in various +other directions are castles and batteries, adding an appearance of security to +that of plenty. The banks, though not lofty, slope gently upwards, with +occasional falls or glens, and the background is composed in general of the +rugged tops of distant mountains. +</p> + +<p> +Having waited till the ship dropped anchor, I put myself into a a sort of barge +rowed by four negroes, and proceeded to Kingston. Though not the capital of the +island, Kingston is the largest town in Jamaica. It stands upon the brink of a +frith, about nine miles above Port Royal, and thence enjoys all the advantages +of the chief mart in this trading country. Like most other mercantile seaports, +it is built without much regard to regularity. The streets, though wide, are in +general the reverse of elegant, being composed almost entirely of wooden +houses, and by no means remarkable for cleanliness. Of public buildings it +possesses none worthy of notice. Its inns are, however, excellent; and though +certainly not moderate in their charges, they are at least more so than those +of Bermuda. In a word, it is exactly such a town as one would expect to find +holding the principal commercial rank in a colony where men’s minds +seldom aspire beyond the occupations of trade. +</p> + +<p> +Of the intense heat in this place, none but those who have experienced it can +form a notion. It is impossible to walk out with any comfort, except before the +sun has risen, or after he has set; and even within doors, with the aid of +thorough draughts and all the other expedients usually adopted on such +occasions, it is with the utmost difficulty that you can contrive to keep your +blood in a moderate degree of temperature. In the town itself, therefore, few +of the higher classes reside, the closeness produced by a proximity of houses +being in this climate peculiarly insupportable. These inhabit for the most part +little villas, called Pens, about three or four miles in the country, the +master of each family generally, retaining a suite of apartments, or, perhaps +an entire mansion, in some open street for his own use, when business obliges, +him, to exchange the comfort of fresh air for the suffocating atmosphere of +Kingston. Towards the outskirts, indeed, in one direction, a few gentile +families inhabit one or two handsome houses, surrounded by extensive gardens +and shrubberies; but these are not numerous, and they are so far removed from +the heart of the town, as to be in great measure beyond the influence of its +smoke and other nuisances. +</p> + +<p> +During our sojourn in this place we received the most hospitable attention from +several persons of the first distinction. Balls and other entertainments were +given, at which all the beauty and fashion in this part of the island attended; +and for some days I had little leisure or inclination for any other pursuit +than the enjoyment of civilized pleasure, a pursuit which, from long disuse, +possessed more than ordinary zest. But at length having seen as much of +Kingston and its vicinity as, I desired to see, I determined to take advantage +of the opportunity which fortune had placed within my reach, and to make an +excursion into the heart of the Blue Mountains. To this I was additionally +induced by an invitation from an old friend to visit him at Annotto bay; and +as, along with his letter, he sent a horse for my own conveyance, and a mule +for the conveyance of my baggage, no difficulty respecting a mode of being +transported stood in the way to obstruct my design. +</p> + +<p> +Having made up my mind to this journey, I waited, till sunset on the 9th, when, +starting in the cool of the evening, I reached a little tavern called the Plum +Tree, about half an hour after dark. My ride carried me through an open and +fertile country covered with sugar-canes, coffee, and such other plants as are +cultivated in the low grounds of Jamaica. It was a short one, not more than +twelve miles in extent, but I was forced to halt where I did, because I had +gained the foot of the mountains; and if I had passed the Plum Tree, well known +as a sort of half-way house on such tours, I might have travelled all night +without finding any place of accommodation. +</p> + +<p> +As darkness set in, one of the, beautiful peculiarities of a tropical climate, +which I had not previously witnessed, came under my observation. The air was +filled with fire-flies, which, emitting a phosphoric light something similar to +the light of the glow-worm, only more red and brilliant, danced around me like +sparks from a smith’s anvil when he is beating a bar of red-hot iron. +These creatures flutter about with a humming noise, and frequently settle in +large swarms upon branches of trees, giving them the semblance of so many +pieces of timber taken newly out of a fire. When viewed by daylight they are in +no way remarkable for their elegance, resembling in the shape of the body a +long beetle which may be seen in the fields after sunset, without wings or +scales. In colour they are a dingy brown, and, like the glow-worm, carry their +light in the tail. +</p> + +<p> +As I had not before chanced to see anything of the kind, and forgot at the +moment that such an insect as the fire-fly existed, I was for a few minutes at +a loss to what cause to attribute the phenomenon, and was at last indebted to +my negro guide for refreshing my memory on the subject. The effect, however, +cannot be conceived without being witnessed. A cluster of two or three +glow-worms shine so brilliantly, that they will furnish subject for the +commendatory eloquence of any one fortunate enough to perceive them together; +but their brilliancy is to a farthing candle to the sun, when compared with +that of the fire-fly. Not two, or three, but thousands of these creatures dance +around, filling the air with a wavering and uncertain glimmer, of the extreme +beauty of which no words can convey an adequate conception. +</p> + +<h3>THE BLUE MOUNTAINS.</h3> + +<p> +Having passed the night at this tavern, a small cottage kept by a free negro +and his wife, I rose two hours before dawn, and prosecuted my journey. From the +moment I quitted the Plate Tree I began gradually to ascend, till at daybreak I +found myself in the midst of the most glorious scenery that the imagination of +man can conceive. Everything around was new and romantic. The hills, towering +into the very sky, were covered from top to bottom with the richest herbage and +the most luxuriant wood. Rarely could a barren crag be discerned, and when it +did appear it was only a sharp point, or a bald projection pushing itself +forward from the midst of the thickest foliage. But what to me formed the most +bewitching part of the prospect was the elegance of the trees and their perfect +dissimilitude to any which had previously beheld. The cocoa-nut and plantain +were mingled with the wild pine and lime-tree; while the cashew and wild +coffee, with numberless other shrubs, loaded at once with fruit and blossom, +formed the underwood to these graceful forests. +</p> + +<p> +As yet I had been favoured with a wide and good road, but now it began +gradually to narrow, till at last it ended in a path little more distinct than +the sheep-tracks over the hills in Scotland. Winding along the sides of the +mountains, it brought me frequently to spots where the wood parting, as if +artificially, displayed deep ravines, to look down which, without becoming +dizzy, required no little strength of head; whilst above, the same hill +continued to stretch itself to a height far beyond any I had before gazed upon. +Presently after it conducted me gently down into valleys completely shut out +from the rest of the world; and as I descended I could hear the roar of water, +though neither, the stream nor the bottom of the glen could be perceived. On +one of these occasions, after passing through a thick grove, I beheld a river +of some width dashing along the glen, and chafing so as to produce the noise of +a mighty waterfall. Towards the brink of this river my guide conducted me; +when, plunging in, we made our way with some difficulty to the opposite bank, +and again began to ascend. +</p> + +<p> +For several hours, the same scenery surrounded me, only varied by the +occasional appearance of clusters of negro huts. Than these, it is impossible +to imagine any species of huts or dwellings more beautifully picturesque. They +are constructed of strong limbs of trees, thatched over with straw, and usually +ending in a cone; having no windows, but only two, or sometimes four doors, for +the purpose of admitting a free current of air. The spots chosen for their +erection, are generally small platforms or terraces in the sides of the hills. +A little path, similar to that along which I travelled, winds down from their +doors to the bottom of the valley, and conducts to the edge of the river, from +whence the inhabitants are supplied with water. Other tracks likewise branch +off in different directions, some towards the summit, and others along the +sides of the mountains; leading, probably, to the fields or spots where the +inhabitants labour. These huts have no chimney, but only a large hole in the +roof, to give free passage to the smoke; and I could perceive, by its rise at +present, that fires were now burning. +</p> + +<p> +It would be labour lost, were I to attempt any more minute description of this +delightful journey. Every step I took presented something new, and something +more grand and sublime than I had just quitted; whilst the continual fording of +the swollen river (for I crossed the same stream no fewer than eight-and-twenty +times) gave an additional interest to the scene, arising from the sense of +danger. The rainy season having just ended, this stream, the Wag-water, a most +appropriate name, had not as yet returned to its natural size; but at the +fords, which in general would not cover a horse’s knees, the depth was +such as to moisten the saddle-girths. So great a quantity of water, in a +furious mountain-torrent, pouring on with all the violence produced by a steep +descent, occasioned no slight pressure upon my steed; nor was it without +considerable floundering on his part, and some anxiety on mine, that once or +twice we succeeded in making good our passage. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap17"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> + +<p> +Noon was approaching when my sooty fellow-traveller directed my attention to a +neat cottage, romantically situated on the top of a low mound, which stood +alone in the middle of stupendous mountains. It commanded one of the most +exquisite prospects that fancy can represent. A sort of glen surrounded it on +every side, richly and beautifully wooded; behind, rose some of the most lofty +of the Blue Mountains; on the right there was an opening, which admitted a fine +view of Annotto Bay; whilst in the other direction, the hills sloping gradually +upwards, presented an inclined plane, covered with fields of sugar-cane, and +ending, at a considerable distance, in one abrupt and broken ridge. +</p> + +<p> +The cottage in question was the residence of my friend, and the resting-place +whither my steps were turned; nor did I experience any regret at finding myself +so near my journey’s end. The heat had for some time been almost +intolerable, and having eaten nothing since the night before, nature began to +cry out for repose and repletion; and, in truth, the welcome which I +experienced, was of a nature to take away all desire of wandering farther. We +had not met for several years—not, indeed, since I was a child—and +in the interval, some melancholy changes had occurred in the family of my host; +but he received me with the cordial hospitality which a warm heart produces, +and forgot his private sorrows for a time, that he might not throw a damp upon +my enjoyments. +</p> + +<p> +The remainder of this day I spent, as a powerful sensation of fatigue warned me +to spend it, within doors; but on the following morning I set out at an early +hour, for the purpose of gratifying my curiosity on a number of points which +had frequently exercised it. In this excursion, and indeed in all the +excursions which I undertook during my residence at his Pen, my friend +accompanied me; and an excellent and most intelligent guide he proved to be. We +made the tour of several estates, saw the process of making sugar, visited the +sugar and coffee plantations, and inspected several hospitals, with one of +which each estate is supplied, for the accommodation and cure of sick negroes. +In the course of these rambles, I made it my business to inquire into the +condition and treatment of the slave population; inspecting their huts, and +even examining their provisions; and I frankly confess that, though I began my +researches under the influence of as many prejudices as, on such a subject, are +wont to be entertained by Englishmen in general, the result of the whole was to +convince me that I had done glaring injustice to the character of the Jamaica +planters, as well as fostered notions of the wretchedness of the negroes, +utterly and iniquitously erroneous. It is no business of mine, and, if it were, +this is no proper place to take part in what has of late been termed the +West-Indian controversy; but, as an eye-witness, I may venture to speak out on +one point, by affirming, that a countless proportion of the stories with which +the British public is amused, touching the barbarous treatment of slaves by +owners and overseers, are, if not absolute fables, at all events gross +exaggerations. I am aware that my residence in the island was too brief, and my +acquaintance with it too limited, to entitle my opinions to the weight which a +more protracted sojourn might have obtained for them; but it is but justice to +state, that whilst I was there, I enjoyed opportunities of seeing the negro at +all times, and under all circumstances, such as few casual visitors can boast +of. My host was not a planter, but a medical practitioner; and one prejudiced +rather against the slave system than in favour of it: there was therefore no +disposition on his part to cast dust into my eyes, or to present to them only +the bright side of the picture. Under his guidance, I beheld the negro at work +in the fields, in the bosom of his family, in the sick ward, and at market; and +I never saw him other than a contented and light-hearted being. No doubt there +are instances of cruelty on the part of overseers in Jamaica, exactly as there +are instances of tyranny on the part of parish officers and county magistrates +in England; but had these been as numerous, or as flagrant, as they are +represented to be, I cannot doubt but that something of the kind must have +passed under my eyes, even within the space of one week. No such event, +however, took place; and, as far as I could learn, no such event was to be +expected. +</p> + +<p> +Far be it from me to stand forward as the advocate of personal bondage in the +abstract—it is a grievous evil; and wherever men are so far civilized as +to render its abolition desirable, it is an evil which ought to be abolished. +But it is an evil of long standing, authorized in the Bible, and therefore, we +may presume, not without its counterbalancing benefits. He, therefore, who +would seek, at all hazards and under all circumstances, to dissolve the tie +which binds a master to his slave, and a slave to his master—whilst he +would be doing that which the Apostles never did, and which Christians are +nowhere commanded to do—would run no slight hazard of causing a quantity +of mischief to both parties, for which the benefits bestowed upon either would +not compensate. With respect to our own colonies, in particular, it is manifest +that the whole matter resolves itself into one consideration. If the negroes be +in such a state, as that the boon of universal freedom would be productive to +them of universal benefit, by all means let it be bestowed at once, even though +it be attended by so much national expense, as the fair demands of the +proprietors for compensation shall impose upon us. If they be not thus +situated, let every practicable method be adopted to advance them on the scale +of civilization; but till they be advanced far beyond their present station, +let no false hopes be excited that the moment of their liberation is at hand. +Many measures for their improvement have been adopted since the year 1814, and +many more are in daily process of adoption; but it is greatly to be apprehended +that much of the benefit which these measures promised to bring about, has been +obstructed by the indiscreet zeal of those who profess, and probably feel, the +liveliest interest in their welfare. +</p> + +<p> +Besides adding to my stock of knowledge as to the cultivation of the +sugar-cane, the making of sugar, rum, &c. &c.; I had an opportunity of +seeing something of the Maroons, or free Negroes, who inhabit the mountains. +These people dwell apart from the European settlers, holding very little +intercourse with them, though a single European generally resides in each of +their villages, as a sort of chief or magistrate. They struck me to be a lazy, +indolent, and harmless race of human beings; and they formed, in all their +habits, a striking contrast with their enslaved brethren. Whilst the latter +devote their spare hours to the culture of their own little spots, to +cudgel-playing, dancing, or other gambols, the former appear to spend their +whole time in a state between sleeping and waking, at the doors of their huts, +or under the shelter of trees. Some of the Maroon females, I observed, were +really handsome, their features being high, and their persons elegantly formed; +but in general they differed nothing from the other negroes, from whom, indeed, +they are principally descended. +</p> + +<p> +I heard that the men carry on a petty trade in feathers, but that their +principal occupation, at least that from which they derive the largest +emolument, consists in apprehending, and leading back to their masters, +run-away slaves. For their services in this department, they were wont to +receive a pension from the Government; and they are still, I believe, supplied +with muskets and ammunition at the expense of the colonial authorities. But +enough of these details. +</p> + +<p> +My sojourn in St. Mary’s having extended considerably beyond the limits +which prudence would have imposed upon it, I set out on the morning of the +13th, on my return towards Kingston. The country through which I travelled +differed in many respects from that which I had crossed in my way hither: it +was in general less wild, and less mountainous; but it possessed features of +striking beauty, rich corn-fields being interspersed amidst graceful forests, +and here and there a wild hill-side rising as a contrast to both. The most +remarkable variety, and not perhaps the least agreeable, was, however, to be +found in the absence of the Wag-water; my guide having led me in a direction by +which its tortuous course was avoided. +</p> + +<p> +As it was late before I started, my ride soon became toilsome on account of the +heat, and I was fain to stop short for the night at a place called Stoney Hill, +about twelve miles from Kingston. Here I was hospitably entertained by the +officers of the 102nd regiment; and, rising at an early hour on the following +morning, I contrived to complete my journey before breakfast. And it was well +that no further time had been expended in my progress. The ships, I found, were +preparing to put to sea; the stock was all embarked, and the crews on board; +nothing therefore remained for me but to follow the general example, and to +establish myself with as little delay as possible in my cabin. +</p> + +<h3>PORT ROYAL—NEGRIL BAY.</h3> + +<p> +In spite of these preparations, the 15th and 16th of November both passed away +without any movement being made. It was, however, my custom not to neglect any +opportunities which chanced to come in my way of viewing strange places, and +obtaining an acquaintance with strange people; neither on the present occasion +did I fail to make the most of the interval, by landing and wandering over the +town of Port Royal. But to describe minutely a place so little deserving of +description, would hardly repay me for the labour of writing, or the reader for +the toil of perusing what I write. It is sufficient to observe, that except to +him who takes delight in beholding a well-constructed military work, there is +nothing in the busy, bustling town of Port Royal which will at all compensate +for the heat and fatigue which he must undergo who, like myself, traverses its +streets and lanes at noon-day. +</p> + +<p> +The long looked-for signal to weigh was hung out at last; and at an early hour +on the 17th we put to sea. Our point of destination was Negril Bay, the +appointed place of rendezvous for the whole armament; and we reached it without +the occurrence of mishap or adventure on the evening of the 19th. We found here +a large fleet already assembled; but the horses were all landed, many officers +were dwelling in tents on the shore, and everything gave indication that some +further delay might be expected. To say the truth, I experienced no degree of +satisfaction at this prospect; for the point of the island opposite to which we +now lay was neither remarkable for its natural beauty nor very thickly +inhabited; and had the contrary been the case, I had seen as much of Jamaica +and its people as I was at all desirous to see. Besides, it was impossible not +to feel that whatever the object of our expedition might be, it was not likely +to be furthered by this tardy mode of entering upon it; and rumours already +began to spread abroad, of discoveries incautiously and untimely made. It was, +therefore, with no slight degree of pleasure that, on the morning of the 24th, +the topmasts of a numerous squadron were seen over the eastern promontory, in +full sail towards us; and it was with still greater delight that in a short +time we were able to discern the flags of Sir Alexander Cochrane and Admiral +Malcolm floating in the breeze. By and bye the Tonnant and Royal Oak showed +their hulls in the offing; and a short while afterwards, these ships, followed +by a large fleet of troopers and transports, majestically entered the bay. As +may be imagined, our curiosity was strongly excited to learn what +reinforcements they contained, and what intelligence they brought; insomuch, +that they had scarcely dropped anchor when they were boarded from almost every +one of the ships which they came to join. +</p> + +<h3>NEGRIL BAY.</h3> + +<p> +It appeared that this powerful reinforcement consisted of the following +corps:—the 93rd regiment, a fine battalion of Highlanders, mustering nine +hundred bayonets; six companies of the 95th rifle corps; two West India +regiments, each eight hundred strong; two squadrons of the 14th Dragoons +dismounted; detachments of artillery, rockets, sappers, and engineers; recruits +for the different corps already in this part of the world; and though last, not +least, Major-General Keane to take upon himself the command of the whole. The +intelligence brought was likewise interesting, for it informed us of the point +whither we were to proceed; and it was soon known throughout the fleet, that +the conquest of New Orleans was the object in view. +</p> + +<p> +But before I pursue my narrative further, having arrived, as it were, at a +second commencement, it may be well if I state in full the number of men of +which the army now consisted. In the first place, then, there were the 4th, +44th, and 85th regiments, originally dispatched from Bordeaux, and the 21st, +which joined the expedition at Bermuda. These battalions, being considerably +reduced by past service, could not at present muster conjunctly above two +thousand two hundred men; and being likewise deprived of the Marine battalion, +which had fought beside them in the Chesapeake, they retained no followers +except the artillery, sappers, &c. which had accompanied them from the +first. The whole amount of this corps may, therefore, be estimated at two +thousand five hundred men. +</p> + +<p> +Without computing the individual strength of each detachment now arrived, I +will venture to fix the aggregate at two thousand five hundred; and thus the +whole, taken collectively, will amount to five thousand combatants. That it +might somewhat exceed or fall under this computation, I do not deny; but +neither the excess nor deficiency could be considerable; and therefore my +statement may be received as correct, with very little allowance. +</p> + +<p> +This, it must be confessed, was a formidable force, and such as, had all its +parts been trustworthy, might have done much. But on the black corps little +reliance could be placed, especially if the climate should prove colder than +was anticipated; consequently, there were not more than three thousand four +hundred men upon whom a General could fully depend. +</p> + +<p> +Together with these forces were brought out abundant stores of ammunition, some +clothing for the troops, and tents to be used when an opportunity should offer. +There were also numerous additions to the commissariat and medical departments; +in short, the materiel of the army was increased in proportion to its increase +in number. +</p> + +<p> +To find himself in the chief command of the army, exceeded the expectation, and +perhaps the desire, of General Keane. Being a young and dashing officer, he had +been selected as most fit to serve under General Ross; and having sailed from +England before the death of that gallant chief was known, he reached Madeira +before his elevation was communicated to him. Young as he was, however, his +arrival produced much satisfaction throughout the armament; for though no one +entertained a doubt as to the personal courage of Colonel Brook, it was felt +that a leader of more experience was wanted on the present expedition. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as the newly-arrived squadron had anchored, the Bay was covered with +boats, which conveyed parties of officers from ship to ship, hastening to +salute their comrades, and to inquire into the state of things at home. +Greetings and hearty embraces were interchanged between friends thus again +brought together; and a few passing ejaculations of sorrow bestowed upon those +who could not now take part in the meeting. Many questions were put, relative +to persons and places in England; in a word, the day was spent in that species +of employment, which can be completely known only to those who have been +similarly situated. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap18"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> + +<h3>AT SEA.</h3> + +<p> +But the period granted for such indulgence was not of long duration, for on the +following morning the Tonnant, Ramilies, and two brigs stood to sea; and on the +26th the rest of the fleet got under weigh and followed the Admiral. It is +impossible to conceive a finer sea-view than this general stir presented. Our +fleet amounted now to upwards of fifty sail, many of them vessels of war, which +shaking loose their topsails, and lifting their anchors at the same moment, +gave to Negril Bay an appearance of bustle such as it has seldom been able to +present. In half an hour all the canvas was set, and the ships moved slowly and +proudly from their anchorage, till, having cleared the headlands, and caught +the fair breeze which blew without, they bounded over the water with the speed +of eagles, and long before dark the coast of Jamaica had disappeared. +</p> + +<p> +There is something in rapidity of motion, whether it be along a high road or +across the deep, extremely elevating; nor was its effect unperceived on the +present occasion. It is true that there were other causes for the high spirits +which now pervaded the armament, but I question if any proved more efficient in +their production than the astonishing rate of our sailing. Whether the business +we were about to undertake would prove bloody or the reverse entered not into +the calculations of a single individual in the fleet. The sole subject of +remark was the speed with which we got over the ground, and the probability +that existed of our soon reaching the point of debarkation. The change of +climate, likewise, was not without its effect in producing pleasurable +sensations. The farther we got from Jamaica, the more cool and agreeable became +the atmosphere; from which circumstance we were led to hope that, in spite of +its southern latitude, New Orleans would not be found so oppressively hot as we +had been taught to expect. +</p> + +<p> +The breeze continuing without interruption, on the 29th we came in sight of the +island of Grand Cayman. It is a small speck in the middle of the sea, lying so +near the level of the water as to be unobservable at any considerable distance. +Though we passed along with prodigious velocity, a canoe nevertheless ventured +off from the shore, and making its way through waves which looked as if they +would swallow it up, succeeded in reaching our vessel. It contained a white man +and two negroes, who brought off a quantity of fine turtle, which they gave us +in exchange for salt pork; and so great was the value put upon salt provisions, +that they bartered a pound and a half of the one for a pound of the other. To +us the exchange was very acceptable, and thus both parties remained satisfied +with their bargain. +</p> + +<p> +Having lain-to till our turtle-merchants left us, we again filled and stood our +course. The land of Cayman was soon invisible; nor was any other perceived till +the 2nd of December, when the western shores of Cuba presented themselves. +Towards them we now directed the ship’s head, and reaching in within a +few miles of the beach, coasted along till we had doubled the promontory, which +forms one of the jaws of the Mexican Gulf. Whilst keeping thus close to the +shore, our sail was more interesting than usual, for though this side of Cuba +be low, it is nevertheless picturesque, from the abundance of wood with which +it is ornamented. There are likewise several points where huge rocks rise +perpendicularly out of the water, presenting the appearance of old baronial +castles, with their battlements and lofty turrets; and it will easily be +believed that none of these escaped our observation. The few books which we had +brought to sea were all read, many of them twice and three times through; and +there now remained nothing to amuse except what the variety of the voyage could +produce. +</p> + +<p> +But the shores of Cuba were quickly passed, and the old prospect of sea and sky +again met the gaze. There was, however, one circumstance from which we +experienced a considerable diminution of comfort. As soon as we entered the +gulf, a short disagreeable swell was perceptible; differing in some respects +from that in the Bay of Biscay, but to my mind infinitely more unpleasant. So +great was the motion, indeed, that all walking was prevented; but as we felt +ourselves drawing every hour nearer and nearer to the conclusion of our +miseries, this additional one was borne without much repining. Besides, we +found some amusement in watching, from the cabin windows, the quantity and +variety of weed with which the surface of the gulf is covered. The current +being here extremely rapid, the weed sails continually in the same direction; +that is to say, it goes round by the opposite side of Cuba towards the banks of +Newfoundland, and is carried sometimes as far as Bermuda, and even to the +Western Isles. +</p> + +<p> +It is not, however, my intention to continue the detail of this voyage longer +than may be interesting; I shall therefore merely state that, the wind and +weather having undergone some variations, it was the 10th of December before +the shores of America could be discerned. On that day we found ourselves +opposite to the Chandeleur Islands, and near the entrance of Lake Borgne. There +the fleet anchored, that the troops might be removed from the heavy ships into +such as drew least water; and from this and other preparations it appeared that +to ascend this lake was the plan determined upon. +</p> + +<h3>NEW ORLEANS.</h3> + +<p> +But before I pursue my narrative further, it will be well if I endeavour to +give some account of the situation of New Orleans, and of the nature of the +country against which our operations were directed. +</p> + +<p> +New Orleans is a town of some note, containing from twenty to thirty thousand +inhabitants. It stands upon the eastern bank of the Mississippi, in 30 degrees +north latitude, and about 110 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. Though in itself +unfortified, it is difficult to conceive a place capable of presenting greater +obstacles to an invader; and at the same time more conveniently situated with +respect to trade. Built upon a narrow neck of land, which is confined on one +side by the river, and on the other by impassable morasses, its means of +defence require little explanation; and as these morasses extend to the +distance of only a few miles, and are succeeded by Lake Pontchartrain, which +again communicates through Lake Borgne<a href="#linknote-2" +name="linknoteref-2" id="linknoteref-2"><sup>[2]</sup></a> with the sea, its +peculiar commercial advantages must be equally apparent. It is by means of the +former of these lakes, indeed, that intercourse is maintained between the city +and the northern parts of West Florida, of which it is the capital; a narrow +creek, called in the language of the country a bayo or bayouke, navigable for +vessels drawing less than six feet water, running up through the marsh, and +ending within two miles of the town. The name of this creek is the Bayouke of +St. John, and its entrance is defended by works of considerable strength. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="linknote-2" id="linknote-2"></a> <a href="#linknoteref-2">[2]</a> +These are, properly speaking, one and the same lake. From the entrance, +however, as far as Ship Island, is called by the inhabitants Lake Borgne, +whilst all above that point goes under the name of Lake Pontchartrain. They are +both extremely shallow, varying from 12 to 6 feet in depth. +</p> + +<p> +But to exhibit its advantages in a more distinct point of view, it will be +necessary to say a few words respecting that mighty river upon which it stands. +The Mississippi (a corruption of the word Mechasippi, signifying, in the +language of the natives, “the father of rivers”) is allowed to be +inferior, in point of size and general navigability, to few streams in the +world. According to the Sioux Indians it takes its rise from a large swamp, and +is increased by many rivers emptying themselves into its course as far as the +Fall of St. Anthony, which, by their account, is upwards of 700 leagues from +its source. But this fall, which is formed by a rock thrown across the channel, +of about twelve feet perpendicular height, is known to be 800 leagues from the +sea; and therefore the whole course of the Mississippi, from its spring to its +mouth, may be computed at little short of 5000 miles. +</p> + +<p> +Below the fall of St. Anthony, again, the Mississippi is joined by a number of +rivers, considerable in point of size, and leading out of almost every part of +the continent of America. These are the St. Pierre, which comes from the west; +St. Croix, from the east; the Moingona, which is said to run 150 leagues from +the west, and forms a junction about 250 below the fall; and the Illinois, +which rises near the lake Michigan, 200 leagues east of the Mississippi. +</p> + +<p> +But by far the most important of these auxiliary streams is the Missouri, the +source of which is as little known as that of the Father of Rivers himself. It +has been followed by traders upwards of 400 leagues, who traffic with the +tribes which dwell upon its banks, and obtain an immense return for European +goods. The mouth of this river is five leagues below that of the Illinois, and +is supposed to be 800 from its source, which, judging from the flow of its +waters, lies in a north-west direction from the Mississippi. It is remarkable +enough that the waters of this river are black and muddy, and prevail over +those of the Mississippi, which running with a clear and gentle stream till it +meets with this addition, becomes from that time both dark and rapid. +</p> + +<p> +The next river of note is the Ohio, which taking its rise near Lake Erie, runs +from the north-east to the south-west, and joins the Mississippi about 70 +leagues below the Missouri. Besides this there are the St. Francis, an +inconsiderable stream, and the Arkansas, which is said to originate in the same +latitude with Santa Fe in New Mexico, and which, holding its course nearly 300 +leagues, falls in about 200 above New Orleans. Sixty leagues below the +Arkansas, comes the Yazous from the northeast; and about 58 nearer to the city +is the Rouge, so called from the colour of its waters, which are of a reddish +dye, and tinge those of the Mississippi at the time of the floods. Its source +is in New Mexico, and after running about 200 leagues it is joined by the Noir +30 miles above the place where it empties itself into the Mississippi. +</p> + +<p> +Of all these rivers there is none which will not answer the purposes of +commerce, at least to a very considerable extent; and as they join the +Mississippi above New Orleans, it is evident that this city may be considered +as the general mart of the whole. Whatever nation, therefore, chances to +possess this place, possesses in reality the command of a greater extent of +country than is included within the boundary-line of the whole United States +since from every direction are goods, the produce of East, West, North, and +South America, sent down by the Mississippi to the Gulf. But were New Orleans +properly supplied with fortifications, it is evident that no vessels could pass +without the leave of its governor; and therefore is it that I consider that +city as of greater importance to the American government than any other within +the compass of their territories. +</p> + +<p> +Having said so much on its commercial advantages, let me now point out more +distinctly than I have yet done the causes which contribute to its safety from +all hostile attempts. The first of these is the shallowness of the river at its +mouth, and the extreme rapidity of the current. After flowing on in one +prodigious sheet of water, varying in depth from one hundred to thirty fathoms, +the Mississippi, previous to its joining the Mexican Gulf, divides into four or +five mouths, the most considerable of which is encumbered by a sandbank +continually liable to shift. Over this bank no vessel drawing above seventeen +feet water can pass; when once across, however, there is no longer a difficulty +in being floated; but to anchor is hazardous, on account of the huge logs which +are constantly carried down the stream. Should one of these strike the bow of +the ship, it would probably dash her to pieces; whilst, independent of this, +there is always danger of drifting or losing anchors, owing to the number of +sunken logs which the under-current bears along within a few feet of the +bottom. All vessels ascending the river are accordingly obliged, if the wind be +foul, to make fast to the trees upon the banks; because without a breeze at +once fair and powerful, it is impossible to stem the torrent. +</p> + +<p> +But besides this natural obstacle to invasion, the mouth of the river is +defended by a fort, which from its situation may be pronounced impregnable. It +is built upon an artificial causeway, and is surrounded on all sides by swamps +totally impervious, which extend on both sides of the river to a place called +the Detour des Anglais, within twenty miles of the city. Here two other forts +are erected, one on each bank. Like that at the river’s mouth, these are +surrounded by a marsh, a single narrow path conducting from the commencement of +firm ground to the gates of each. If, therefore, an enemy should contrive to +pass both the bar and the first fort, he must here be stopped, because all +landing is prevented by the nature of the soil; and however fair his breeze may +have hitherto been, it will not now assist his further progress. At this point +the Mississippi winds almost in a circle, insomuch that vessels which arrive +are necessitated to make fast till a change of wind occur. +</p> + +<p> +From the Detour des Anglais towards New Orleans the face of the country +undergoes an alteration. The swamp does not indeed end, but it narrows off to +the right, leaving a space of firm ground, varying, from three to one mile in, +width, between it and the river. At the back of this swamp, again, which may be +about six or eight miles across, come up the waters of Lake Pontchartrain, and +thus a neck of arable land is formed, stretching for some way above the city. +The whole of these morasses are covered as far as the Detour with tall reeds; a +little wood now succeeds, skirting the open country, but the wood measures no +more than one mile in depth, when it again gives place to reeds. Such is the +aspect of that side of the river upon which the city is built; with respect to +the other I can speak with less confidence, having seen it but cursorily. It +appears, however, to resemble this in almost every particular, except that it +is more wooded and less confined with marsh. Both sides are flat, containing no +broken ground, nor any other cover, for military movements; for on the open +shore there are no trees, except a few in the gardens of those houses which +skirt the rivers; the whole being laid out in large fields of sugar-cane; +separated from one another by rails and ditches. +</p> + +<p> +From the preceding brief account of the country, the advantages possessed by a +defending army must; be apparent. To approach by the river is out of the +question, and therefore an enemy can land only from the lake. But this can be +done nowhere, except where creeks or bayos offer convenience for that purpose, +because the banks of the lake are universally swampy; and can hardly supply +footing for infantry, far less for the transportation of artillery. Of these, +however, there are not above one or two which could be so used. The Bayo of St. +John is one; but it is too well defended, and too carefully guarded for any +attempts; and the Bayo of Catiline is another, about ten miles below the city. +That this last might be found useful in an attack, was proved by the landing +affected by our army at that point; but what is the consequence? The invaders +arrive upon a piece of ground, where the most consummate generalship will be of +little avail. If the defenders can but retard their progress—which, by +crowding the Mississippi with armed vessels, may very easily be done, the +labour of a few days will cover the narrow neck with entrenchments; whilst the +opposite bank remaining in their hands, can at all times gall their enemy with +a close and deadly cannonade. Of wood, as I have already said, or broken ground +which might conceal an advance, there exists not a particle. Every movement of +the assailants must, therefore, be made under their eyes; and as one flank of +their army will be defended by a morass, and the other by the river, they may +bid defiance to all attempts at turning. +</p> + +<p> +Such are the advantages of New Orleans; and now it is only fair that I should +state its disadvantages: these are owing solely the climate. From the swamps +with which it is surrounded, there arise, during the summer months, exhalations +extremely fatal to the health of its inhabitants. For some months of the year, +indeed, so deadly are the effects of the atmosphere, that the garrison is +withdrawn, and most of the families retire from their houses to more genial +spots, leaving the town as much deserted as if it had been visited by a +pestilence. Yet, in spite of these cautions, agues and intermittent fevers +abound here at all times. Nor is it wonderful that the case should be so; for +independent of the vile air which the vicinity of so many putrid swamps +occasions, this country is more liable than perhaps any other to sudden and +severe changes of temperature. A night of keen frost sufficiently powerful to +produce ice a quarter of an inch in thickness, frequently follows a day of +intense heat; whilst heavy rains and bright sunshine often succeed each other +several times in the course of a few hours. But these changes, as may supposed, +occur only during the winter; the summer being one continued series of +intolerable heat and deadly fog. +</p> + +<h3>LAKE BORGNE.</h3> + +<p> +Of all these circumstances the conductors of the present expedition were not +ignorant. To reduce the forts which command the navigation of the river was +regarded as a task too difficult to be attempted; and for any ships to pass +without their reduction seemed impossible. Trusting, therefore, that the object +of the enterprise was unknown to the Americans, Sir Alexander Cochrane and +General Keane determined to effect a landing somewhere on the banks of the +lake; and pushing directly on, to take possession of the town, before any +effectual preparation could be made for its defence. With this view the troops +were removed from the larger into the lighter vessels, and these, under convoy +of such gun-brigs as the shallowness of the water would float, began on the +13th to enter Lake Borgne. But we had not proceeded far, when it was apparent +that the Americans were well acquainted with our intentions, and ready to +receive us. Five large cutters, armed with six heavy guns each, were seen at +anchor in the distances: and as all endeavours to land, till these were +captured, would have been useless, the transports and largest of the gun-brigs +cast anchor, whilst the smaller craft gave chase to the enemy. +</p> + +<p> +But these cutters were built purposely to act upon the lake. They accordingly +set sail as soon as the English cruisers arrived within a certain distance, and +running on, were quickly out of sight, leaving the pursuers fast aground. To +permit them to remain in the hands of the enemy, however, would be fatal, +because, as long as they commanded the navigation of the lake, no boats could +venture to cross. It was therefore determined at all hazards, and at any +expense, to take them; and since our lightest craft could not float where they +sailed, a flotilla of launches and ships’ barges was got ready for the +purpose. +</p> + +<p> +This flotilla consisted of fifty open boats; most of them armed with a +carronade in the bow, and well manned with volunteers from the different ships +of war. The command was given to Captain Lockier, a brave and skilful officer, +who immediately pushed off; and about noon came in sight of the enemy, moored +fore and aft, with broadsides pointing towards him. Having pulled a +considerable distance, he resolved to refresh his men before he hurried them +into action; and, accordingly, letting fall grapplings just beyond the reach of +the enemy’s guns, the crews of the different boats coolly ate their +dinner. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as that meal was finished, and an hour spent in resting, the boats +again got ready to advance. But, unfortunately, a light breeze which had +hitherto favoured them, now ceased to blow, and they were in consequence +compelled to make way only with the oar. The tide also ran strong against them, +at once increasing their labour and retarding their progress; but all these +difficulties appeared trifling to British sailors; and, giving a hearty cheer, +they moved steadily onward in one extended line. +</p> + +<p> +It was not long before the enemy’s guns opened upon them, and a +tremendous shower of balls saluted their approach. Some boats were sunk, others +disabled, and many men were killed and wounded; but the rest pulling with all +their might, and occasionally returning the discharges from their carronades, +succeeded, after an hour’s labour, in closing with the Americans. The +marines now began a deadly fire of musketry; whilst the seamen, sword in hand, +sprang up the vessels’ sides in spite of all opposition; and sabring +every man that stood in their way, hauled down the American ensign, and hoisted +the British flag in its place. +</p> + +<p> +One cutter alone, which bore the commodore’s broad pendant, was not so +easily subdued. Having noted its pre-eminence, Captain Lockier directed his own +boat against it; and happening to have placed himself in one of the lightest +and fastest sailing barges in the flotilla, he found himself alongside of his +enemy before any of the others were near enough to render him the smallest +support. But nothing dismayed by odds so fearful, the gallant crew of this +small bark, following their leader, instantly leaped on board the American. A +desperate conflict ensued, in which Captain Lockier received several severe +wounds; but after fighting from the bow to the stern, the enemy were at length +overpowered; and other barges coming up to the assistance of their commander, +the commodore’s flag shared the same fate with the others. +</p> + +<h3>PINE ISLAND.</h3> + +<p> +Having destroyed all opposition in this quarter, the fleet again weighed +anchor, and stood up the lake. But we had not been many hours under sail, when +ship after ship ran aground: such as still floated were, therefore, crowded +with the troops from those which could go no farther, till finally the lightest +vessel stuck fast; and the boats were of necessity hoisted out, to carry us a +distance of upwards of thirty miles. To be confined for so long a time as the +prosecution of this voyage would require, in one posture, was of itself no very +agreeable prospect; but the confinement was but a trifling misery when compared +with that which arose from the change in the weather. Instead of a constant +bracing frost, heavy rains, such as an inhabitant of England cannot dream of, +and against which no cloak could furnish protection, began. In the midst of +these were the troops embarked in their new and straitened transports, and each +division, after an exposure of ten hours, landed upon a small desert spot of +earth, called Pine Island, where it was determined to collect the whole army, +previous to its crossing over to the main. +</p> + +<p> +Than this spot it is scarcely possible to imagine any place more completely +wretched. It was a swamp, containing a small space of firm ground at one end, +and almost wholly unadorned with trees of any sort or description. There were, +indeed, a few stinted [sic] firs upon the very edge of the water, but these +were so diminutive in size as hardly to deserve a higher classification than +among the meanest of shrubs. The interior was the resort of wild ducks and +other water-fowl; and the pools and creeks with which it was intercepted +abounded in dormant alligators. +</p> + +<p> +Upon this miserable desert the army was assembled, without tents or huts, or +any covering to shelter them from the inclemency of the weather; and in truth +we may fairly affirm that our hardships had here their commencement. After +having been exposed all day to a cold and pelting rain, we landed upon a barren +island, incapable of furnishing even fuel enough to supply our fires. To add to +our miseries, as night closed, the rain generally ceased, and severe frosts set +in, which, congealing our wet clothes upon our bodies, left little animal +warmth to keep the limbs in a state of activity; and the consequence was, that +many of the wretched negroes, to whom frost and cold were altogether new, fell +fast asleep, and perished before morning. +</p> + +<p> +For provisions, again, we were entirely dependent upon the fleet. There were +here no living creatures which would suffer themselves to be caught; even the +water-fowl being so timorous that it was impossible to approach them within +musket-shot. Salt meat and ship biscuit were, therefore, our food, moistened by +a small allowance of rum; fare which, though no doubt very wholesome, was not +such as to reconcile us to the cold and wet under which we suffered. +</p> + +<p> +On the part of the navy, again, all these hardships were experienced in a +four-fold degree. Night and day were boats pulling from the fleet to the +island, and from the island to the fleet; for it was the 21st before all the +troops were got on shore; and as there was little time to inquire into +men’s turns of labour, many seamen were four or five days continually at +the oar. Thus they had not only to bear up against variety of temperature, but +against hunger, fatigue, and want of sleep in addition; three as fearful +burdens as can be laid upon the human frame. Yet in spite of all this, not a +murmur nor a whisper of complaint could be heard throughout the whole +expedition. No man appeared to regard the present, whilst every one looked +forward to the future. From the General, down to the youngest drum-boy, a +confident anticipation of success seemed to pervade all ranks; and in the hope +of an ample reward in store for them, the toils and grievances of the moment +were forgotten. Nor was this anticipation the mere offspring of an overweening +confidence in themselves. Several Americans had already deserted, who +entertained us with accounts of the alarm experienced at New Orleans. They +assured us that there were not at present 5000 soldiers in the State; that the +principal inhabitants had long ago left the place; that such as remained were +ready to join us as soon as we should appear among them; and that, therefore, +we might lay our account with a speedy and bloodless conquest. The same persons +likewise dilated upon the wealth and importance of the town, upon the large +quantities of Government stores there collected, and the rich booty which would +reward its capture; subjects well calculated to tickle the fancy of invaders, +and to make them unmindful of immediate afflictions, in the expectation of so +great a recompense to come. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap19"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2> + +<p> +It is well known that, at the period to which my narrative refers, an alliance, +offensive and defensive, subsisted between the Government of Great Britain and +the heads of as many Indian nations or tribes as felt the aggressions of the +settlers upon their ancient territories, and were disposed to resent them. On +this side of the continent our principal allies were the Chaktaws and +Cherokees, two nations whom war and famine had reduced from a state of +comparative majesty to the lowest ebb of feebleness and distress. Driven from +hunting-ground to hunting-ground, and pursued like wild beasts wherever seen, +they were now confined to a narrow tract of country, lying chiefly along the +coasts of the gulf and the borders of the lakes which adjoin to it. For some +time previous to the arrival of the expedition, the warriors of these tribes +put themselves under the command of Colonel Nickolls, of the Royal Marines, and +continued to harass the Americans by frequent incursions into the cultivated +districts. It so happened, however, that, being persuaded to attempt the +reduction of a fort situated upon Mobile Point, and being, as might be +expected, repulsed with some loss, their confidence in their leader, and their +dependence upon British aid, had begun of late to suffer a serious diminution. +Though not very profitable as friends, their local position and desultory mode +of warfare would have rendered them at this period exceedingly annoying to us +as enemies; it was accordingly determined to dispatch an embassy to their +settlements, for the purpose of restoring them to good humour, or at least +discovering their intentions. +</p> + +<p> +Whilst the troops were assembling upon Pine Island, a cutter, having proper +officers on board, and carrying presents of clothing, arms, and rum, was +dispatched upon this business. It reached its place of destination in safety, +and the ambassadors found very little difficulty in bringing back the fickle +Indians to their wonted reliance upon British support. Several of the chiefs +and warriors, indeed, requested and obtained permission to visit our Admiral +and General, and to follow the fortunes of our troops; and a very grotesque and +singular appearance they presented as they stood upon the quarter-deck of the +Tonnant. But the costume, habits, and customs of these savages have been too +frequently and too accurately described elsewhere, to render any account of +them on the present occasion desirable. It is sufficient to observe, that +whilst they gazed upon everything around them with a look expressive of no +astonishment whatever, they were themselves objects of eager curiosity to us; +and that they bore our close inspection and somewhat uncourteous deportment +with the most perfect philosophy. But to my tale. +</p> + +<p> +The enemy’s cutters having fallen into our hands, at an early hour on the +morning of the 16th the disembarkation of the troops began. So deficient, +however, was the fleet in boats and other small craft fit to navigate the +lakes, that it was late on the evening of the 21st before the last division +took up its ground upon Pine Island, and even then the inconveniences of our +descent were but beginning. The troops had yet to be arranged in corps and +brigades; to each of these its proportion of Commissaries, Purveyors, and +Medical attendants, &c., &c., required to be allotted; and some attempt +at establishing depots of provisions and military stores behoved to be made. In +adjusting these matters the whole of the 22nd was occupied, on which day the +General likewise reviewed the whole of the army. This being ended, the force +was next distributed into divisions, or corps; and the following is the order +it assumed. +</p> + +<p> +Instead of a light brigade, the General resolved to set apart three battalions +as an advanced guard. The regiments nominated to that service were the 4th, the +85th Light Infantry, and the 95th. Rifles; and he selected Colonel Thornton of +the 85th, as an officer of talent and enterprise, to command them. Attached to +this corps were a party of rocket-men, with two light three-pounders— a +species of gun convenient enough, where celerity of movement is alone regarded, +but of very little real utility in the field. The rest of the troops were +arranged, as before, into two brigades. The first, composed of the 21st, 44th, +and one black regiment, was intrusted to Colonel Brook; and the second, +containing the 93rd and the other black corps, to Colonel Hamilton, of the 7th +West India regiment. To each of these, a certain proportion of artillery and +rockets was allotted: whilst the dragoons, who had brought their harness and +other appointments on shore, remained as a sort of bodyguard to the General, +till they should provide themselves with horses. +</p> + +<p> +The adjustment of these matters having occupied a considerable part of the +22nd, it was determined that all things should remain as they were till next +morning. Boats, in the mean time, began to assemble from all quarters, supplies +of ammunition were packed, so as to prevent the possibility of damage from +moisture, and stores of various descriptions were got ready. But it appeared +that, even now, many serious inconveniences must be endured, and obstacles +surmounted, before the troops could reach the scene of action. In the first +place, from Pine Island to that part of the main towards which prudence +directed us to steer, was a distance of no less than 80 miles. This, of itself, +was an obstacle, or at least an inconvenience, of no slight nature; for should +the weather prove boisterous, open boats, heavily laden with soldiers, would +stand little chance of escaping destruction in the course of so long a voyage. +In the next place, and what was of infinitely greater importance, it was found +that there were not, throughout the whole fleet, a sufficient number of boats +to transport above one third of the army at a time. But to land in divisions +would expose our forces to be attacked in detail, by which means one party +might be cut to pieces before the others could arrive to its support. The +undertaking was, therefore, on the whole, extremely dangerous, and such as +would have been probably abandoned by more timid leaders. Ours, however, were +not so to be alarmed. They had entered upon a hazardous business, in whatever +way it should be prosecuted; and since they could not work miracles, they +resolved to lose no time in bringing their army into the field in the best +manner which circumstances would permit. +</p> + +<h3>THE LAKE.</h3> + +<p> +With this view, the advance, consisting of 1600 men and two pieces of cannon, +was next morning embarked. I have already stated that there is a small creek, +called the Bayo de Catiline, which runs up from Lake Pontchartrain through the +middle of an extensive morass, about ten miles below New Orleans. Towards this +creek were the boats directed, and here it was resolved to effect a landing. +When we set sail, the sky was dark and lowering, and before long a heavy rain +began to fall. Continuing without intermission during the whole of the day, +towards night, it, as usual, ceased, and was succeeded by a sharp frost; which, +taking effect upon men thoroughly exposed, and already cramped by remaining so +long in one posture, rendered our limbs completely powerless. Nor was there any +means of dispelling the benumbing sensation, or effectually resisting the cold. +Fires of charcoal, indeed, being lighted in the sterns of the boats, were +permitted to burn as long as daylight lasted; but as soon as it grew dark, they +were of necessity extinguished, lest the flame should be seen by row-boats from +the shore, and an alarm be thus communicated. Our situation was, therefore, the +reverse of agreeable; since even sleep was denied us, from the apprehension of +fatal consequences. +</p> + +<h3>THE LAKE—LANDING.</h3> + +<p> +Having remained in this uncomfortable state till midnight, the boats cast +anchor and hoisted awnings. There was a small piquet of the enemy stationed at +the entrance of the creek by which it was intended to effect our landing. This +it was absolutely necessary to surprise; and whilst the rest lay at anchor, two +or three fast-sailing barges were pushed on to execute the service. Nor did +they experience much difficulty in accomplishing their object. Nothing, as it +appeared, was less dreamt of by the Americans than an attack from this quarter, +consequently no persons could be less on their guard than the party here +stationed. The officer who conducted the force sent against them, found not so +much as a single sentinel posted! but having landed his men at two places, +above and below the but which they inhabited, extended his ranks so as to +surround it, and closing gradually in, took them all fast asleep, without noise +or resistance. +</p> + +<p> +When such time had been allowed as was deemed sufficient for the accomplishment +of this undertaking, the flotilla again weighed anchor, and without waiting for +intelligence of success, pursued their voyage. Hitherto we had been hurried +along at a rapid rate by a fair breeze, which enabled us to carry canvas; but +this now left us, and we made way only by rowing. Our progress was therefore +considerably retarded, and the risk of discovery heightened by the noise which +that labour necessarily occasions; but in spite of these obstacles, we reached +the entrance of the creek by dawn; and about nine o’clock, were safely on +shore. +</p> + +<p> +The place where we landed was as wild as it is possible to imagine. Gaze where +we might, nothing could be seen except one huge marsh covered with tall reeds; +not a house nor a vestige of human industry could be discovered; and even of +trees there were but a few growing upon the banks of the creek. Yet it was such +a spot as, above all others, favoured our operations. No eye could watch us, or +report our arrival to the American General. By remaining quietly among the +reeds, we might effectually conceal ourselves from notice; because, from +appearance of all around, it was easy to perceive that the place which we +occupied had been seldom, if ever before, marked with a human footstep. +Concealment, however, was the thing of all others which we required; for be it +remembered that there were now only sixteen hundred men on the mainland. The +rest were still at Pine Island, where they must remain till the boats which had +transported us should return for their conveyance, consequently many hours must +elapse before this small corps could be either reinforced or supported. If, +therefore, we had sought for a point where a descent might be made in secrecy +and safety, we could not have found one better calculated for that purpose than +the present; because it afforded every means of concealment to one part of our +force, until the others should be able to come up. +</p> + +<h3>MARCH.</h3> + +<p> +For these reasons, it was confidently expected that no movement would be made +previous to the arrival of the other brigades; but, in our expectations of +quiet, we were deceived. The deserters who had come in, and accompanied us as +guides, assured the General that he had only to show himself, when the whole +district would submit. They repeated, that there were not five thousand men in +arms throughout the State: that of these, not more than twelve hundred were +regular soldiers, and that the whole force was at present several miles on the +opposite side of the town, expecting an attack on that quarter, and +apprehending no danger on this. These arguments, together with the nature of +the ground on which we stood, so ill calculated for a proper distribution of +troops in case of attack, and so well calculated to hide the movements of an +army acquainted with all the passes and tracks which, for aught we knew, +intersected the morass, induced our leader to push forward at once into the +open country. As soon, therefore, as the advance was formed, and the boats had +departed, we began our march, following an indistinct path along the edge of +the ditch or canal. But it was not without many checks that we were able to +proceed. Other ditches, similar to that whose course we pursued, frequently +stopped us by running in a cross direction, and falling into it at right +angles. These were too wide to be leaped, and too deep to be forded; +consequently, on all such occasions, the troops were obliged to halt, till +bridges were hastily constructed of such materials as could be procured, and +thrown across. +</p> + +<p> +Having advanced in this manner for several hours, we at length found ourselves +approaching a more cultivated region. The marsh became gradually less and less +continued, being intersected by wider spots of firm ground; the reeds gave +place, by degrees, to wood, and the wood to inclosed fields. Upon these, +however, nothing grew, harvest having long ago ended. They accordingly +presented but a melancholy appearance, being covered with the stubble of +sugar-cane, which resembled the reeds which we had just quitted, in everything +except altitude. Nor as yet was any house or cottage to be seen. Though we +knew, therefore, that human habitations could not be far off, it was impossible +to guess where they lay, or how numerous they might prove; and as we could not +tell whether our guides might not be deceiving us, and whether ambuscades might +not be laid for our destruction as soon as we should arrive where troops could +conveniently act, our march was insensibly conducted with increased caution and +regularity. +</p> + +<p> +But in a little while some groves of orange-trees presented selves; on passing +which two or three farm-houses appeared. Towards these, our advanced companies +immediately hastened, with the hope of surprising the inhabitants, and +preventing any from being raised. Hurrying on at double-quick time, they +surrounded the buildings, succeeded in securing the inmates, capturing several +horses; but becoming rather careless in watching their prisoners, one man +contrived to effect his escape. Now, then, all hope of eluding observation +might be laid aside. The rumour of our landing would, we knew, spread faster +than we could march; and it only remained to make that rumour as terrible as +possible. +</p> + +<p> +With this view, the column was commanded to widen its files, and to present as +formidable an appearance as could be assumed. Changing our order, in obedience +to these directions, we marched, not in sections of eight or ten abreast, but +in pairs, and thus contrived to cover with our small division as large a tract +or ground as if we had mustered thrice our present numbers. Our steps were +likewise quickened, that we might gain, if possible, some advantageous +position, where we might be able to cope with any force that might attack us; +and thus hastening on, we soon arrived at the main road which leads directly to +New Orleans. Turning to the right, we then advanced in the direction of that +town for about a mile; when, having reached a spot where it was considered that +we might encamp in comparative safety, our little column halted; the men piled +their arms, and a regular bivouac was formed. +</p> + +<h3>HALT.</h3> + +<p> +The country where we had now established ourselves, answered, in every respect, +the description which I have already given of the neck of land on which New +Orleans is built. It was a narrow plain of about a mile in width, bounded on +one side by the Mississippi, and on the other by the marsh from which we had +just emerged. Towards the open ground this marsh was covered with dwarf wood, +having the semblance of a forest rather than of a swamp; but on trying the +bottom, it was found that both characters were united, and that it was +impossible for a man to make his way among the trees, so boggy was the soil +upon which they grew. In no other quarter, however, was there a single +hedge-row, or plantation of any kind; excepting a few apple and other fruit +trees in the gardens of such houses as were scattered over the plain, the whole +being laid out in large fields for the growth of sugar-cane, a plant which +seems as abundant in this part of the world as in Jamaica. +</p> + +<p> +Looking up towards the town, which we at this time faced, the marsh is upon +your right, and the river upon your left. Close to the latter runs the main +road, following the course of the stream all the way to New Orleans. Between +the road and the water is thrown up a lofty and strong embankment, resembling +the dykes in Holland, and meant to serve a similar purpose; by means of which +the Mississippi is prevented from overflowing its banks, and the entire flat is +preserved from inundation. But the attention of a stranger is irresistibly +drawn away from every other object, to contemplate the magnificence of this +noble river. Pouring along at the prodigious rate of four miles an hour, an +immense body of water is spread out before you; measuring a full mile across, +and nearly a hundred fathoms in depth. What this mighty stream must be near its +mouth, I can hardly imagine, for we were here upwards of a hundred miles from +the ocean. +</p> + +<p> +Such was the general aspect of the country which we had entered;—our own +position, again, was this. The three regiments turning off from the road into +one extensive green field, formed three close columns within pistol-shot of the +river. Upon our right, but so much in advance as to be of no service to us, was +a large house, surrounded by about twenty wooden huts, probably intended for +the accommodation of slaves. Towards this house there was a slight rise in the +ground, and between it and the camp was a small pond of no great depth. As far +to the rear as the first was to the front, stood another house, inferior in +point of appearance, and skirted by no outbuildings: this was also upon the +right; and here General Keane, who accompanied us, fixed his head-quarters; but +neither the one nor the other could be employed as a covering redoubt, the +flank of the division extending, as it were, between them. A little way in +advance, again, where the outposts were stationed, ran a dry ditch and a row of +lofty palings; affording some cover to the front of our line, should it be +formed diagonally with the main road. The left likewise was well secured by the +river; but the right and the rear were wholly unprotected. Though in occupying +this field, therefore, we might have looked very well had the country around us +been friendly, it must be confessed that our situation hardly deserved the +title of a military position. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap20"></a>CHAPTER XX.</h2> + +<p> +Noon had just passed, when the word was given to halt, by which means every +facility was afforded of posting the piquet’s leisure and attention. Nor +was this deemed enough to secure tranquillity: parties were sent out in all +directions to reconnoitre, who returned with an account that no enemy nor any +trace of an enemy could be discerned. The troops were accordingly suffered to +light fires, and to make themselves comfortable, only their accoutrements were +not taken off, and the arms were piled in such form as to be within reach at a +moment’s notice. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as these agreeable orders were issued, the soldiers to obey them both +in letter and in spirit. Tearing up a number of strong palings, large fires +were lighted in a moment; water was brought from the river, and provisions were +cooked. But their bare rations did not content them. Spreading themselves over +the country as far as a regard to safety would permit, they entered every +house, and brought away quantities of hams, fowls, and wines of various +descriptions; which being divided among them, all fared well, and none received +too large a quantity. In this division of good things, they were not unmindful +of their officers; for upon active warfare the officers are considered by the +privates as comrades, to whom respect and obedience are due, rather than as +masters. +</p> + +<p> +It was now about three o’clock in the afternoon, and all had as yet +remained quiet. The troops having finished their meal, lay stretched beside +their fires, or refreshed themselves by bathing, for to-day the heat was such +as to render this latter employment extremely agreeable, when suddenly a bugle +from the advanced posts sounded the alarm, which was echoed back from all in +the army. Starting up, we stood to our arms, and prepared for battle, the alarm +being now succeeded by some firing; but we were scarcely in order, when +intelligence arrived from the front that there was no danger, only a few horse +having made their appearance, who were checked and put to flight at the first +discharge. Upon this information, our wonted confidence returned, and we again +betook ourselves to our former occupations, remarking that, as the Americans +had never yet dared to attack, there was no great probability of their doing so +on the present occasion. +</p> + +<p> +In this manner the day passed without any further alarm; and darkness having +set in, the fires were made to blaze with increased splendour, our evening meal +was eaten, and we prepared to sleep. But about half-past seven o’clock, +the attention of several individuals was drawn to a large vessel, which seemed +to be stealing up the river till she came opposite to our camp; when her anchor +was dropped, and her sails leisurely furled. At first we were doubtful whether +she might not be one of our own cruisers which had passed the fort unobserved, +and had arrived to render her assistance in our future operations. To satisfy +this doubt, she was repeatedly hailed; but returning no answer, an alarm +immediately spread through the bivouac, and all thought of sleep was laid +aside. Several musket-shots were now fired at her with the design of exacting a +reply, of which no notice was taken; till at length, having fastened all her +sails, and swung her broadside towards us, we could distinctly hear some one +cry out in a commanding voice, “Give them this for the honour of +America.” The words were instantly followed by the flashes of her guns, +and a deadly shower of grape swept down numbers in the camp. +</p> + +<p> +Against this destructive fire we had nothing whatever to oppose. The artillery +which we had landed was too light to bring into competition with an adversary +so powerful; and as she had anchored within a short distance of the opposite +bank, no musketry could reach her with any precision or effect. A few rockets +were discharged, which made a beautiful appearance in the air; but the rocket +is at the best an uncertain weapon, and these deviated too far from their +object to produce even terror amongst those against whom they were directed. +Under these circumstances, as nothing could be done offensively, our sole +object was to shelter the men as much as possible from the iron hail. With this +view, they were commanded to leave the fires, and to hasten under the dyke. +Thither all accordingly repaired, without much regard to order and regularity, +and laying ourselves along wherever we could find room, we listened in painful +silence to the pattering of grape-shot among our huts, and to the shrieks and +groans of those who lay wounded beside them. +</p> + +<h3>ATTACK.</h3> + +<p> +The night was now as dark as pitch, the moon being but young, and totally +obscured with clouds. Our fires deserted by us, and beat about by the +enemy’s shot, began to burn red and dull, and, except when the flashes of +those guns which played upon us cast a momentary glare, not an object could be +distinguished at the distance of a yard. In this state we lay for nearly an +hour, unable to move from our ground, or offer any opposition to those who kept +us there; when a straggling fire of musketry called our attention towards the +piquets, and warned us to prepare for a closer and more desperate struggle. As +yet, however, it was uncertain from what cause this dropping fire arose. It +might proceed from the sentinels, who, alarmed by the cannonade from the river, +mistook every tree for an American; and till the real state of the case should +be ascertained, it would be improper to expose the troops by moving any of them +from the shelter which the bank afforded. But these doubts were not permitted +to continue long in existence. The dropping fire having paused for a few +moments, was succeeded by a fearful yell; and the heavens were illuminated on +all sides by a semi-circular blaze of musketry. It was now manifest that we +were surrounded, and that by a very superior force; and that no alternative +remained, except to surrender at discretion, or to beat back the assailants. +</p> + +<p> +The first of these plans was never for an instant thought of; the second was +immediately put into force. Rushing from under the bank, the 85th and 95th flew +to support the piquets, whilst the 4th, stealing to the rear of the encampment, +formed close column, and remained as a reserve. And now began a battle of which +no language were competent to convey any distinct idea; because it was one to +which the annals of modern warfare furnish no parallel. All order, all +discipline were lost. Each officer, as he succeeded in collecting twenty or +thirty men about him, plunged into the midst of the enemy’s ranks, where +it was fought hand to hand, bayonet to bayonet, and sabre to sabre. +</p> + +<p> +I am well aware that he who speaks of his own deeds in the field of battle lies +fairly open to the charge of seeking to make a hero of himself in the eyes of +the public; and feeling this, it is not without reluctance that I proceed to +recount the part which I myself took in the affair of this night. But, in +truth, I must either play the egotist awhile, or leave the reader without any +details at all; inasmuch as the darkness and general confusion effectually +prevented me from observing how others, except my own immediate party, were +employed. +</p> + +<p> +Offering this as my apology for a line of conduct which I should otherwise +blush to pursue, and premising that I did nothing, in my own person, which was +not done by my comrades at least as effectually, I go on to relate as many of +the particulars of this sanguinary conflict as came under the notice of my own +senses. +</p> + +<p> +My friend Grey and myself had been supplied by our soldiers with a couple of +fowls taken from a neighbouring hen-roost, and a few bottles of excellent +claret, borrowed from the cellar of one of the houses near. We had built +ourselves a sort of hut, by piling together, in a conical form, a number of +large stakes and broad rails torn up from one of the fences; and a bright +wooden fire was blazing at the door of it. In the wantonness of triumph, too, +we had lighted some six or eight wax-candles; a vast quantity of which had been +found in the store-rooms of the chateaux hard by; and having done ample justice +to our luxurious supper, we were sitting in great splendour and in high spirits +at the entrance of our hut, when the alarm of the approaching schooner was +communicated to us. With the sagacity of a veteran, Grey instantly guessed how +matters stood: he was the first to hail the suspicious stranger; and on +receiving no answer to his challenge, he was the first to fire a musket in the +direction of her anchorage. But he had scarcely done so when she opened her +broadside, causing the instantaneous abandonment of fires, viands, and mirth +throughout the bivouac. +</p> + +<p> +As we contrived to get our men tolerably well around us, Grey and myself were +among the first who rushed forth to support the piquets and check the advance +of the enemy upon the right. Passing as rapidly as might be through the ground +of encampment amidst a shower of grape-shot from the vessel, we soon arrived at +the pond; which being forded, we found ourselves in front of the farm-house of +which I have already spoken as composing the head-quarters of General Keane. +Here we were met by a few stragglers from the outposts, who reported that the +advanced companies were all driven in, and that a numerous division of +Americans was approaching. Having attached these fugitives to our little corps, +we pushed on, and in a few seconds reached the lower extremity of a sloping +stubble-field, at the other end of which we could discern a long line of men, +but whether they were friends or foes the darkness would not permit ups to +determine. We called aloud for the purpose of satisfying our doubts; but the +signal being disregarded, we advanced. A heavy fire of musketry instantly +opened upon us; but so fearful was Grey of doing injury to our own troops, that +he would not permit it to be returned. We accordingly pressed on, our men +dropping by ones and twos on every side of us, till having arrived within +twenty or thirty yards of the object of our curiosity, it became to me evident +enough that we were in front of the enemy. Grey’s humane caution still +prevailed; he was not convinced, till he, should be convinced it was but +natural that he should alter his plans. There chanced to be near the spot where +we were standing a huge dung-heap, or rather a long solid stack of stubble, +behind which we directed the men to take shelter whilst one of us should creep +forward alone, for the purpose of more completely ascertaining a fact of which +all except my brave and noble-minded comrade were satisfied. The event proved +that my sight had not deceived me: I approached within sabre’s length of +the line; and having ascertained beyond the possibility of doubt that the line +was composed of American soldiers, I returned to my friend and again urged him +to charge. But there was an infatuation upon him that night for which I have +ever been unable to account: he insisted that I must be mistaken; he spoke of +the improbability which existed that any part of the enemy’s army should +have succeeded in taking up a position in rear of the station of one of our +outposts, and he could not be persuaded that the troops now before him were not +the 95th Rifle corps. At last it was agreed between us that we should separate; +that Grey with one half of the party should remain where he was, whilst I with +the other half should make a short detour to the right, and come down upon the +flank of the line from whose fire we had suffered so severely. The plan was +carried into immediate execution. Taking with me about a dozen or fourteen men, +I quitted Grey, and we never met again. +</p> + +<p> +How or when he fell I know not; but, judging from the spot and attitude in +which I afterwards found his body, I conceive that my back could have been +barely turned upon him when the fatal ball pierced his brain. He was as brave a +soldier and as good a man as the British army can boast of; beloved by his +brother officers and adored by his men. To me he was as a brother; nor have I +ceased even now to feel, as often as the 23rd of December returns, that on that +night a tie was broken than which the progress of human life will hardly +furnish one more tender or more strong. But to my tale. +</p> + +<p> +Leaving Grey—careless as he ever was in battle of his own person, and +anxious as far as might be to secure the safety of his followers—I led my +little party in the direction agreed upon, and fortunately falling in with +about an equal number of English riflemen, I caused them to take post beside my +own men, and turned up to the front. Springing over the paling, we found +ourselves almost at once upon the left flank of the enemy; and we lost not a +moment in attacking it. But one volley was poured in, and then bayonets, +musket-butts, sabres, and even fists, came instantly into play. In the whole +course of my military career remember no scene at all resembling this. We +fought with the savage ferocity of bull-dogs; and many a blade which till +to-night had not drunk blood became in a few minutes crimsoned enough. +</p> + +<p> +Such a contest could not in the nature of things be of very long continuance. +The enemy, astonished at the vigour of our assault, soon began to waver, and +their wavering was speedily converted into flight. Nor did we give them a +moment’s time to recover from their panic. With loud shouts we continued +to press upon them; and amidst the most horrible din and desperate carnage +drove them over the field and through the little village of huts, of which +notice has already been taken as surrounding the mansion on our advanced right. +Here we found a number of our own people prisoners, and under a guard of +Americans. But the guard fled as we approached, and our countrymen catching up +such weapons as came first to hand, joined in the pursuit. +</p> + +<p> +In this spot I halted my party, increased by the late additions to the number +of forty; among whom were two gallant young officers of the 95th. We had not +yet been joined, as I expected be joined, by Grey; and feeling that we were at +least far enough in advance of our own line, we determined to attempt nothing +further except to keep possession of the village should it be attacked. But +whilst placing the men in convenient situations, another dark line was pointed +out to us considerably to the left our position. That we might ascertain at +once of what troops was composed, I left my brother officers to complete the +arrangements which we had begun, and walking down the field, demanded in a loud +voice to be informed who they were that kept post in so retired a situation. A +voice from the throng made answer that they were Americans, and begged of me +not fire upon my friends. Willing to deceive them still further, I asked to +what corps they belonged; the speaker replied that they were the second +battalion of the first regiment, and inquired what had become of the first +battalion. I told him that it was upon my right, and assuming a tone of +authority, commanded him not to move from his present situation till I should +join him with a party of which I was at the head. +</p> + +<p> +The conversation ended here, and I returned to the village; when, communicating +the result of my inquiries to my comrades, we formed our brave little band into +line and determined to attack. The men were cautioned to preserve a strict +silence, and not to fire a shot till orders were given; they observed these +injunctions, and with fixed bayonets and cautious tread advanced along the +field. As we drew near, I called aloud for the commanding officer of the second +regiment to step forward, upon which an elderly man, armed with a heavy dragoon +sabre, stepped out of the ranks. When he discovered by our dress that we were +English, this redoubtable warrior lost all self-command; he resigned his sword +to me without a murmur, and consented at once to believe that his battalion was +surrounded, and that to offer any resistance would but occasion a needless loss +of blood. Nor was he singular in these respects: his followers, placing +implicit reliance in our assurances that they were hemmed in on every side by a +very superior force, had actually begun to lay down their arms, and would have +surrendered, in all probability, at discretion, but for the superior gallantry +of one man. An American officer, whose sword I demanded, instead of giving it +up as his commander had done, made a cut at my head, which with some difficulty +I managed to ward off; and a few soldiers near him, catching ardour from his +example, discharged their pieces among our troops. The sound of firing was no +sooner heard than it became general, and as all hope of success by stratagem +might now be laid aside, we were of necessity compelled to try the effect of +violence. Again we rushed into the middle of the throng, and again was the +contest that of man to man, in close and desperate strife; till a panic arising +among the Americans, they dispersed in all directions and left us masters of +the field. +</p> + +<p> +In giving a detail so minute of my own adventures this night, I beg to repeat +what has been stated already, that I have no wish whatever to persuade my +readers that I was one whit more cool or more daring than my companions. Like +them I was driven to depend, from first to last, upon my own energies; and I +believe the energies of few men fail them when they are satisfied that on them +alone they must depend. Nor was the case different with my comrades. Attacked +unexpectedly, and in the dark, surrounded, too, by a numerous enemy, and one +who spoke the same language with ourselves, it is not to be wondered at if the +order and routine of civilised warfare were everywhere set at nought. Each man +who felt disposed to command was obeyed by those who stood near him, without +any question being asked as to his authority; and more feats of individual +gallantry were performed in this single night than many regular campaigns might +furnish an opportunity to perform. +</p> + +<p> +The night was far spent, and the sound of firing had begun to wax faint, when, +checking the ardour of our brave followers, we collected them once more +together and fell back into the village. Here likewise considerable numbers +from other detachments assembled, and here we learned that the Americans were +repulsed on every side. The combat had been long and obstinately contested: it +began at eight o’clock in the evening and continued till three in the +morning—but the victory was ours. True, it was the reverse of a bloodless +one, not fewer than two hundred fifty of our best men having fallen in the +struggle: but even at the expense of such a loss, we could not but account +ourselves fortunate in escaping from the snare in which we had confessedly +taken. +</p> + +<p> +To me, however, the announcement of the victory brought no rejoicing, for it +was accompanied with the intelligence that my friend was among the killed. I +well recollect the circumstances under which these sad news reached me. I was +standing with a sword in each hand—my own and that of the officer who had +surrendered to me, and, as the reader may imagine, in no bad humour with myself +or with the brave fellows about me, when a brother officer stepping forward +abruptly told the tale. It came me upon me like a thunderbolt; and casting +aside my trophy, thought only of the loss which I had sustained. Regardless of +every other matter I ran to the rear, and found Grey lying behind the +dung-heap, motionless and cold. A little pool of blood which had coagulated +under his head, pointed out the spot where the ball had entered, and the +position of his limbs gave proof that he must have died without a struggle. I +cannot pretend to describe what were then my sensations, but of whatever nature +they might be, little time was given for their indulgence; the bugle sounding +the alarm, I was compelled to leave him as he lay, and to join my corps. Though +the alarm proved to be a false one, it had the good effect of bringing all the +troops together, by which means a regular line was now, for the first time +since the commencement of the action, formed. In this order, having defiled +considerably to the left, so as to command the highway, we stood in front of +our bivouac till dawn began to appear; when, to avoid the fire of the schooner, +we once more moved to the river’s bank and lay down. Here, during the +whole of the succeeding day, the troops were kept shivering in the cold frosty +air, without fires, without provisions, and exhausted with fatigue; nor was it +till the return of night that any attempt to extricate them from their +comfortless situation could be made. +</p> + +<h3>FIELD OF BATTLE.</h3> + +<p> +Whilst others were thus reposing, I stole away with two or three men for the +purpose of performing the last sad act of affection which it was possible for +me to perform to my friend Grey. As we had completely changed our ground, it +was not possible for me at once to discover the spot where he lay; indeed I +traversed a large portion of the field before I hit upon it. Whilst thus +wandering over the arena of last night’s contest, the most shocking and +most disgusting spectacles everywhere met my eyes. I have frequently beheld a +greater number of dead bodies within as narrow a compass, though these, to +speak the truth, were numerous enough, but wounds more disfiguring or more +horrible I certainly never witnessed. A man shot through the head or heart lies +as if he were in a deep slumber; insomuch that when you gaze upon him you +experience little else than pity. But of these, many had met their deaths from +bayonet wounds, sabre cuts, or heavy blows from the butt ends of muskets; and +the consequence was, that not only were the wounds themselves exceedingly +frightful, but the very countenances of the dead exhibited the most savage and +ghastly expressions. Friends and foes lay together in small groups of four or +six, nor was it difficult to tell almost the very hand by which some of them +had fallen. Nay, such had been the deadly closeness of the strife, that in one +or two places an English and American soldier might be seen with the bayonet of +each fastened in the other’s body. +</p> + +<p> +Having searched for some time in vain, I at length discovered my friend lying +where during the action we had separated, and where, when the action came to a +close, I had at first found him, shot through the temples by a rifle bullet so +remarkably small as scarcely to leave any trace of its progress. I am well +aware that this is no fit place to introduce the working of my own personal +feelings, but he was my friend, and such a friend as few men are happy enough +to possess. We had known and loved each other for years; our regard had been +cemented by a long participation in the same hardships and dangers, and it +cannot; therefore surprise, if even now I pay that tribute to his worth and our +friendship which, however unavailing it may be, they both deserve. +</p> + +<p> +When in the act of looking for him I had flattered myself that I should be able +to bear his loss with something like philosophy, but when I beheld him pale and +bloody, I found all my resolution evaporate. I threw myself on the ground +beside him and wept, like a child. But this was no time for the indulgence of +useless sorrow. Like the royal bard, I knew that I should go to him, but he +could not return to me, and I knew not whether an hour would pass before my +summons might arrive. Lifting him therefore upon a cart, I had him carried down +to head-quarter house, now converted into an hospital, and having dug for him a +grave at the bottom of the garden, I laid him there as a soldier should be +laid, arrayed, not in a shroud, but in his uniform. Even the privates whom I +brought with me to assist at his funeral mingled their tears with mine, nor are +many so fortunate as to return to the parent dust more deeply or more sincerely +lamented. +</p> + +<h3>FIELD OF BATTLE—HOSPITAL.</h3> + +<p> +Retiring from the performance of this melancholy duty, I strolled into the +hospital and visited the wounded. It is here that war loses its grandeur and +show, and presents only a real picture of its effects. Every room in the house +was crowded with wretches mangled, and apparently in the most excruciating +agonies. Prayers, groans, and, I grieve to add, the most horrid exclamations, +smote upon the ear wherever I turned. Some lay at length upon straw, with eyes +half closed and limbs motionless; some endeavoured to start up, shrieking with +pain, while the wandering eye and incoherent speech of others indicated the +loss of reason, and usually foretold the approach of death. But there was one +among the rest whose appearance was too horrible ever to be forgotten. He had +been shot through the windpipe, and the breath making its way between the skin +and the flesh had dilated him to a size absolutely terrific. His head and face +were particularly shocking. Every feature was enlarged beyond what can well be +imagined; whilst his eyes were so completely hidden by the cheeks and forehead +as to destroy all resemblance to a human countenance. +</p> + +<p> +Passing through the apartments where the private soldiers lay, I next came to +those occupied by officers. Of these there were five or six in one small room, +to whom little better accommodation could be provided than to their inferiors. +It was a sight peculiarly distressing, because all of them chanced to be +personal acquaintances of my own. One had been shot in the head, and lay +gasping and insensible; another had received a musket- ball in the belly, which +had pierced through and lodged in the backbone. The former appeared to suffer +but little, giving no signs of life, except what a heavy breathing produced; +the latter was in the most dreadful agony, screaming out, and gnawing the +covering under which he lay. There were many besides these, some severely and +others slightly hurt; but as I have already dwelt at sufficient length upon a +painful subject, I shall only observe, that to all was afforded every +assistance which circumstances would allow, and that the exertions of their +medical attendants were such as deserved and obtained the grateful thanks of +even the most afflicted among the sufferers themselves. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap21"></a>CHAPTER XXI.</h2> + +<h3>ADVANCE.</h3> + +<p> +In the mean time the rest of the troops were landing as fast as possible, and +hastening to join their comrades. Though the advance had set out from Pine +Island by themselves, they did not occupy all the boats in the fleet. Part of +the second brigade, therefore, had embarked about twelve hours after their +departure; and rowing leisurely on, were considerably more than half way across +the lakes when the action began. In the stillness of night, however, it is +astonishing at what distance a noise is heard. Though they must have been at +least twenty miles from the Bayo when the schooner first opened her fire, the +sound reaching them roused the rowers from their indolence, who, pulling with +all their might, hurried on, whilst the most profound silence reigned among the +troops, and, gaining the creek in little more than three hours, sent fresh +reinforcements to share in the danger and glory of the night. +</p> + +<p> +Nor was a moment lost by the sailors in returning to the island. Intelligence +of the combat spread like wildfire; the boats were loaded even beyond what was +strictly safe, and thus, by exerting themselves in a degree almost +unparalleled, our gallant seamen succeeded in bringing the whole army into +position before dark on the 24th. The second and third brigades, therefore, now +took up their ground upon the spot where the late battle had been fought, and, +resting their right upon the woody morass, extended so far towards the river, +as that the advance by wheeling up might continue the line across the entire +plain. +</p> + +<p> +But instead of taking part in this formation, the advance was still fettered to +the bank, from which it was additionally prevented from moving by the arrival +of another large ship, which, cast anchor about a mile above the schooner. Thus +were three battalions kept stationary by the guns of these two formidable +floating batteries, and it was clear that no attempt to extricate them could be +made without great loss, unless under cover of night. During the whole of the +24th, therefore, they remained in this uncomfortable situation; but as soon as +darkness had well set in, a change of position was effected. Withdrawing the +troops, company by company, from behind the bank, General Keane stationed them +in the village of huts, by which means the high road was abandoned to the +protection of a piquet, and the left of the army covered by a large chateau. +</p> + +<p> +Being now placed beyond risk of serious annoyance from the shipping the whole +army remained quiet for the night. How long we were to continue in this state +nobody appeared to know; not a whisper was circulated as to the time of +advancing, nor a surmise ventured respecting the next step likely to be taken. +In our guides to whose rumours we had before listened with avidity, no +confidence was reposed. It was quite evident, either that they had purposely +deceived us, or that their information was gathered from a most imperfect +source; and hence, though they were not exactly placed in confinement, they +were strictly watched, and treated more like spies than deserters. Instead of +an easy conquest, we had already met with a vigorous opposition; instead of +finding the inhabitants ready and eager to join us, we found the houses +deserted, the cattle and horses driven away, and every appearance of hostility. +To march by the only road was rendered impracticable; so completely was it +commanded by the shipping. In a word, all things had turned out diametrically +opposite to what had been anticipated; and it appeared that, instead of a +trifling affair more likely to fill our pockets than to add to our renown, we +had embarked in an undertaking which presented difficulties not to be +surmounted without patience and determination. +</p> + +<p> +Having effected this change of position, and covered the front of his army with +a strong chain of outposts, General Keane, as I have said, remained quiet +during the remainder of the night, and on the morrow was relieved from further +care and responsibility by the unexpected arrival of Sir Edward Pakenham and +General Gibbs. As soon as the death of Ross was known in London, the former of +these officers was dispatched to take upon himself the command of the army. +Sailing immediately with the latter as his second in command, he had been +favoured during the whole voyage by a fresh and fair wind, and now arrived in +time to see his troops brought into a predicament from which all his abilities +could scarcely expect to extricate them. Nor were the troops themselves +ignorant of the unfavourable circumstances in which they stood. Hoping +everything, therefore, from a change, they greeted their new leader with a +hearty cheer; whilst the confidence which past events had tended in some degree +to dispel, returned once more to the bosoms of all. It was Christmas-day, and a +number of officers, clubbing their little stock of provisions, resolved to dine +together in memory of former times. But at so melancholy a Christmas dinner I +do not recollect at any time to have been present. We dined in a barn; of +plates, knives, and forks, there was a dismal scarcity; nor could our fare +boast of much either in intrinsic good quality or in the way of cooking. These, +however, were mere matters of merriment; it was the want of many well-known and +beloved faces that gave us pain; nor were any other subjects discussed besides +the amiable qualities of those who no longer formed part of our mess, and never +would again form part of it. A few guesses as to the probable success of future +attempts alone relieved this topic, and now and then a shot from the schooner +drew our attention to ourselves; for though too far removed from the river to +be in much danger, we were still within cannon-shot of our enemy. Nor was she +inactive in her attempts to molest. Elevating her guns to a great degree, she +contrived occasionally to strike the wall of the building within which we sat; +but the force of the ball was too far spent to penetrate, and could therefore +produce no serious alarm. +</p> + +<p> +Whilst we were thus sitting at table a loud shriek was heard after one of these +explosions, and on running out we found that a shot had taken effect in the +body of an unfortunate soldier. I mention this incident because I never beheld +in any human being so great a tenacity of life. Though fairly cut in two at the +lower part of the belly, the poor wretch lived for nearly an hour, gasping for +breath and giving signs even of pain. +</p> + +<p> +But to return to my narrative. As soon as he reached the camp Sir Edward +proceeded to examine with a soldier’s eye every point and place within +view. Of the American army nothing, whatever could be perceived except a corps +of observation, composed of five or six hundred mounted riflemen, which hovered +along our front and watched our motions. The town itself was completely hid; +nor was it possible to see beyond the distance of a very few miles either in +front or rear, so flat and unbroken was the face of the country. Under these +circumstances little insight into the state of affairs could be obtained by +reconnoitring. The only, thing, indeed, which he could learn from it was, that +while the vessels kept their present station upon river no advance could be +made; and as he felt that every moment’s delay was injurious to us and +favourable to the enemy, he resolved to remove these incumbrances and to push +forward as soon as possible. +</p> + +<p> +With this view nine field-pieces, two howitzers, and one mortar were brought +down to the brink of the stream as soon as it was dark. Working parties were +likewise ordered out, by whom was thrown up opposite to the schooner; and +having got all things in readiness, at dawn on the 26th a heavy cannonade was +opened upon her with red-hot shot. It was not long before we could perceive her +crew hastening into their boats, whilst the smoke which began to rise from her +decks proved that the balls had taken effect. She was, in fact, on fire, and +being abandoned without resistance, in little more than an hour she blew up. In +itself the sight was a fine one, but to us it was peculiarly gratifying, for we +could not but experience something like satiated revenge at the destruction of +a vessel from which we had suffered so much damage. A loud shout accordingly +followed the explosion, and the guns were immediately turned against the ship. +But the fate of her companion had warned her not to remain till she herself +should be attacked. Setting every inch of canvas, and hoisting out her boats, +she began, to stem the stream at the very instant the schooner took fire, and +being impelled forward both by towing and sailing, she succeeded in getting +beyond the range of shot before the guns could be brought to bear. One shell, +however, was thrown with admirable precision, which falling upon her deck +caused considerable execution; but excepting this, she escaped without injury, +and did not anchor again till she had got too far for pursuit. +</p> + +<p> +Having thus removed all apparent obstacles to his future progress, the General +made dispositions for a speedy advance. Dividing the army into two columns, he +appointed General Gibbs to the command of one, and General Keane to the command +of the other. The left column, led on by the latter officer, consisted of the +95th, the 85th, the 93rd, and one black corps; the right, of the 4th, 21st, +44th, and the other black corps. The artillery, of which we had now ten pieces +in the field, though at present attached to the left column, was designed to +act as circumstances and the nature of the ground would permit; whilst the +dragoons, few of whom had as yet provided themselves with horses, were +appointed to guard the hospitals, and to secure the wounded from any sudden +surprise or molestation from the rear. +</p> + +<p> +But the day was too far spent in making these arrangements, and in clearing the +way for future operations, to permit any movement before the morrow. The whole +of the 26th was therefore spent in bringing up stores, ammunition, and a few +heavy guns from the ships, which being placed in battery upon the banks of the +river, secured us against the return of our floating adversary. All this was +done quietly enough, nor was there any cause of alarm till after sunset; but +from that time till towards dawn, we were kept in a constant state of anxiety +and agitation. Sending down small bodies of riflemen, the American General +harassed our piquets, killed and wounded a few of the sentinels, and prevented +the main body from obtaining any sound refreshing sleep. Scarcely had the +troops lain down when they were roused by a sharp firing at the outposts, which +lasted only till they were in order, and then ceased; but as soon as they had +dispersed and had once more addressed themselves to repose, the same cause of +alarm returned, and they were again called to their ranks. Thus was the entire +night spent in watching, or at best in broken and disturbed slumbers, than +which nothing is more trying, both to the health and spirits of an army. +</p> + +<p> +With the piquets, again, it fared even worse. For the outposts of an army to +sleep is at all times considered as a thing impossible; but in modern and +civilized warfare they are nevertheless looked upon as in some degree sacred. +Thus, whilst two European armies remain inactively facing each other, the +outposts of neither are molested, unless a direct attack upon the main body be +intended; nay, so far is this tacit good understanding carried, that I have +myself seen French and English sentinels not more than twenty yards apart. But +the Americans entertained no such chivalric notions. An enemy was to them an +enemy, whether alone or in the midst of five thousand companions; and they +therefore counted the death of every individual as so much taken from the +strength of the whole. In point of fact they no doubt reasoned correctly, but +to us at least it appeared an ungenerous return to barbarity. Whenever they +could approach unperceived within proper distance of our watch-fires, six or +eight riflemen would fire amongst the party that sat around them, while one or +two, stealing as close to each sentinel as a regard to their own safety would +permit, acted the part of assassins rather than that of soldiers, and attempted +to murder him in cold blood. For the officers, likewise, when going their +rounds, they constantly lay in wait, and thus, by a continued dropping fire, +they not only wounded some of those against whom their aim was directed, but +occasioned considerable anxiety and uneasiness throughout the whole line. +</p> + +<p> +It was on this night, and under these circumstances, that I was indebted to the +vigilance of my faithful dog for my life. Amid all the bustle of landing, and +throughout the tumult of the nocturnal battle, she never strayed from me; at +least if she did lose me for a time, she failed not to trace me out again as +soon as order was restored, for I found her by my side when the dawn of the +24th came in, and I never lost sight of her afterwards. It was my fortune on +the night of the 26th to be put in charge of an outpost on the left front of +the army; on such occasions I seldom experienced the slightest inclination to +sleep; and on the present, I made it a point to visit my sentinels at least +once in every, half-hour. Going my rounds for this purpose, it was necessary +that I should pass a little copse of low underwood, just outside the line of +our videttes; and I did pass it again and again, without meeting with any +adventure. But about an hour after midnight, my dog, which, as usual, trotted a +few paces before me, suddenly stopped short at the edge of the thicket, and +began to bark violently, and in great apparent anger. I knew the animal well +enough to be aware that some cause must exist for such conduct; and I too +stopped short, till I should ascertain whether danger were near. It was well +for me that I had been thus warned; for at the instant of my halting, about +half a dozen muskets were discharged from the copse, the muzzles of which, had +I taken five steps forward, must have touched my body. The balls whizzed +harmlessly past my head; and, on my returning the fire with the pistol which I +carried in my hand, the ambuscade broke up, and the party composing it took to +their heels. I was Quixote enough to dash sword in hand into the thicket after +them: but no one waited for me; so I continued my perambulations in peace. +</p> + +<h3>MARCH.</h3> + +<p> +Having continued this detestable system of warfare till towards morning, the +enemy retired and left us at rest. But as soon as day began to break, our +piquets were called in, and the troops formed in order of attack. The right +column, under General Gibbs, took post near the skirts of the morass, throwing +out skirmishers half way across the plain, whilst the left column drew up upon +the road covered by the rifle corps, which in extended order met the +skirmishers from the other. With this last division went the artillery, already +well supplied with horses; and, at the signal given the whole moved forward. +</p> + +<p> +It was a clear frosty morning, the mists had dispersed, and the sun shone +brightly upon our arms when we began our march. The enemy’s corps of +observation fell back as we advanced, without offering in any way to impede our +progress, and it was impossible to guess, ignorant as we were of the position +of his main body, at what moment opposition might be expected. Nor, in truth, +was it matter of much anxiety. Our spirits, in spite of the troubles of the +night, were good, and our expectations of success were high, consequently many +rude jests were bandied about, and many careless words spoken: for soldiers +are, of all classes of men, the freest from care, and on that account, perhaps, +the most happy. By being continually exposed to it, danger, with them, ceases +to be frightful; of death they have no more terror than the beasts that perish; +and even hardships, such as cold, wet, hunger, and broken rest, lose at least +part of their disagreeableness, by the frequency of their recurrence. +</p> + +<p> +Moving on in this merry mood, we advanced about four or five miles without the +smallest check or hindrance; when, at length, we found ourselves in view of the +enemy’s army, posted in a very advantageous manner. About forty yards in +their front was a canal, which extended from the morass to within a short +distance of the high road. Along their line were thrown up breastworks, not +indeed completed, but even now formidable. Upon the road at several other +points were erected powerful batteries; whilst the ship, with a large flotilla +of gun-boats, flanked the whole position from the river. +</p> + +<h3>ATTACK.</h3> + +<p> +When I say that we came in sight of the enemy, I do not mean that he was +gradually exposed to us in such a manner as to leave time for cool examination +and reflection. On the right, indeed, he was seen for some time, but on the +left a few houses built at a turning in the road entirely concealed him; nor +was it till they gained that turning, and beheld the muzzles of his guns +pointed towards them, that those who moved in this direction were aware of +their proximity to danger. But that danger was indeed near they were quickly +taught; for scarcely had the head of the column passed the houses when a deadly +fire was opened from both the battery and the shipping. That the Americans are +excellent marksmen, as well with artillery as with rifles, we have had frequent +cause to acknowledge; but, perhaps, on no occasion did they assert their claim +to the title of good artillery-men more effectually than on the present. Scarce +a ball passed over or fell short of its mark, but all striking full into the +midst of our ranks, occasioned terrible havoc. The shrieks of the wounded, +therefore, the crash of firelocks, and the fall of such as were killed; caused +at first some little confusion; and what added to the panic was, that from the +houses beside which we stood bright flames suddenly burst out. The Americans, +expecting this attack, had filled them with combustibles for the purpose; and +directing against them one or two guns, loaded with red-hot shot, in an instant +set them on fire. The scene was altogether very sublime. A tremendous cannonade +mowed down our ranks, and deafened us with its roar; whilst two large chateaux +and their outbuildings almost scorched us with the flames, and blinded us with +the smoke which they emitted. +</p> + +<p> +The infantry, however, was not long suffered to remain thus exposed; but being +ordered to quit the path and to form line in the fields, the artillery was +brought up, and opposed to that of the enemy. But the contest was in every +respect unequal, since their artillery far exceeded ours, both in numerical +strength and weight of metal. The consequence was, that in half an hour two of +our field-pieces and one field-mortar were dismounted: many of the gunners were +killed; and the rest, after an ineffectual attempt to silence the fire of the +shipping, were obliged to retire. +</p> + +<p> +In the mean time the infantry having formed line, advanced under a heavy +discharge of round and grape shot, till they were checked by the appearance of +the canal. Of its depth they were of course ignorant, and to attempt its +passage without having ascertained whether it could be forded might have been +productive of fatal consequences. A halt was accordingly ordered, and the men +were commanded to shelter themselves as well as they could from the +enemy’s fire. For this purpose they were hurried into a wet ditch, of +sufficient depth to cover the knees, where, leaning forward, they concealed +themselves behind some high rushes which grew upon its brink, and thus escaped +many bullets which fell around them in all directions. +</p> + +<h3>RETREAT.</h3> + +<p> +Thus fared it with the left of the army, whilst the right, though less exposed +to the cannonade, was not more successful in its object. The same impediment +which checked one column forced the other likewise to pause; and after having +driven in an advanced body of the enemy, and endeavoured, without effect, to +penetrate through the marsh, it also was commanded to halt. In a word, all +thought of attacking was for this day abandoned; and it now only remained to +withdraw the troops from their present perilous situation, with as little loss +as possible. +</p> + +<p> +The first thing to be done was to remove the dismounted guns. Upon this +enterprise a party of seamen were employed, who, running forward to the spot +where they lay, lifted them, in spite of the whole of the enemy’s fire, +and bore them off in triumph. As soon as this was effected, regiment after +regiment stole away; not in a body, but one by one, under the same discharge +which saluted their approach. But a retreat thus conducted necessarily occupied +much time. Noon had therefore long passed before the last corps was brought +off; and when we again began to muster twilight was approaching. We did not, +however, retire to our former position; but having fallen back only about two +miles from the canal, where it was supposed that we should be beyond reach of +annoyance from the American artillery, we there established ourselves for the +night, having suffered less during the day than, from our exposed situation and +the enemy’s heavy fire, might have been expected. +</p> + +<p> +The ground which we now occupied resembled, in almost every particular, that +which we had quitted. We again extended across the plain, from the marsh to the +river; no wood or cover of any description concealing our line, or obstructing +the view of either army; while both in front and rear was an open space, laid +out in fields and intersected by narrow ditches. Our outposts, however were +pushed forward to some houses within a few hundred yards of the enemy’s +works, sending out advanced sentinels even farther; and the head-quarters of +the army were established near the spot where the action of the 23rd had been +fought. +</p> + +<h3>PREPARATIONS.</h3> + +<p> +In this state we remained during the 28th, the 29th, and 30th, without any +efforts being made to fortify our own position, or to annoy that of the enemy. +Some attempts were, I believe, set on foot to penetrate into the wood on the +right of our line, and to discover a path through the morass, by which the +enemy’s left might be turned. But all of these proved fruitless, and a +few valuable lives having been sacrificed, the idea was finally laid aside. In +the meanwhile the American General directed the whole of his attention to the +strengthening of his post. Day and night we could observe numerous parties at +work upon his lines, whilst from the increased number of tents, which almost +every hour might be discerned, it was evident that strong reinforcements were +continually pouring into his camp. Nor did he leave us totally unmolested. By +giving to his guns a great degree of elevation, he contrived at last to reach +our bivouac; and thus were we constantly under a cannonade which, though it did +little execution, proved nevertheless extremely annoying. Besides this, he now +began to erect batteries on the opposite bank of the river; from which a +flanking fire could be thrown across the entire front of his position. In +short, he adopted every precaution which prudence could suggest, and for the +reception of which the nature of his ground was so admirably adapted. +</p> + +<p> +Under these circumstances it was evident that the longer an attack was delayed +the less likely was it to succeed; that something must be done immediately +every one perceived, but how to proceed was the difficulty. If we attempted to +storm the American lines, we should expose ourselves to almost certain +destruction from their artillery; to turn them was impossible; and to draw +their troops by any manoeuvring from behind their entrenchments was a thing +altogether out of the question. There seemed therefore to be but one +practicable mode of assault; which was, to treat these field-works as one would +treat a regular fortification; by erecting breaching batteries against them, +and silencing, if it were possible, at least some of their guns. To this plan, +therefore, our leader had recourse; and, in consequence, the whole of these +three days were employed in landing heavy cannon, bringing up ammunition, and +making such preparations as might have sufficed for a siege. +</p> + +<p> +At length, having completed his arrangements, and provided such means as were +considered sufficient to ensure success, General Pakenham determined to +commence operations without delay. One half of the army was accordingly ordered +out on the night of the 31st, and marched to the front, passing the piquets, +and halting about three hundred yards from the enemy’s line. Here it was +resolved to throw up a chain of works; and here the greater part of this +detachment, laying down their firelocks, applied themselves vigorously to their +tasks, whilst the rest stood armed and prepared for their defence. +</p> + +<p> +The night was dark, and our people maintained a profound silence; by which +means, not an idea of what was going on existed in the American camp. As we +laboured, too, with all diligence, six batteries were completed long before +dawn, in which were mounted thirty pieces of heavy cannon; when, falling back a +little way, we united ourselves to the remainder of the infantry, and lay down +behind some rushes, in readiness to act, as soon as we should be wanted. +</p> + +<p> +In the erection of these batteries, a circumstance occurred worthy of notice, +on account of its singularity. I have already stated that the whole of this +district was covered with the stubble of sugar-cane; and I might have added, +that every storehouse and barn, attached to the different mansions scattered +over it, was filled with barrels of sugar. In throwing up these works, the +sugar was used instead of earth. Rolling the hogsheads towards the front, they +were placed upright in the parapets of batteries; and it was computed that +sugar to the value of many thousand pounds sterling was thus disposed of. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap22"></a>CHAPTER XXII.</h2> + +<h3>PREPARATIONS—ATTACK.</h3> + +<p> +The infantry having retired, and the gunners taken their station, dawn was +anxiously expected. But the morning of the 1st of January chanced to be +peculiarly gloomy. A thick haze obscured for a long time the rays of the sun, +nor could objects be discerned with any accuracy till a late hour. +</p> + +<p> +But at length the mist gave way, and the American camp was fully exposed to +view. Being at this time only three hundred yards distant, we could perceive +all that was going forward with great exactness. The different regiments were +upon parade; and being dressed in holiday suits, presented really a fine +appearance. Mounted officers were riding backwards and forwards through the, +ranks, bands were playing, and colours floating in the air; in a word, all +seemed jollity and gala; when suddenly our batteries opened, and the face of +affairs was instantly changed. The ranks were broken; the different corps +dispersing, fled in all directions, whilst the utmost terror and disorder +appeared to prevail. Instead of nicely-dressed lines, nothing but confused +crowds could now be observed; nor was it without much difficulty that order was +finally restored. Oh, that we had charged at that instant! +</p> + +<h3>RETREAT—PAUSE.</h3> + +<p> +Whilst this consternation prevailed among the infantry, their artillery +remained silent; but as soon as the former rallied, they also recovered +confidence, and answered our salute with great rapidity and precision. A heavy +cannonade quickly commenced on both sides, and continued during the whole of +the day; till, towards evening, our ammunition began to fail, and our fire in +consequence to slacken. The fire of the Americans, on the other hand, was +redoubled: landing a number of guns from the flotilla, they increased their +artillery to a prodigious amount; and directing at the same time the whole +force of their cannon on the opposite bank against the flank of our batteries, +they soon convinced us that all endeavours to surpass them in this mode of +fighting would be useless. Once more, therefore, were we obliged to retire, +leaving our heavy guns to their fate; but as no attempt was made by the +Americans to secure them, working parties were again sent out after dark, and +such as had not been destroyed were removed. +</p> + +<p> +Of the fatigue undergone during these operations by the whole army, from the +General down to the meanest sentinel, it would be difficult to form an adequate +conception. For two whole nights and days not a man had closed an eye, except +such as were cool enough to sleep amidst showers of cannon-ball; and during the +day scarcely a moment had been allowed in which we were able so much as to +break our fast. We retired, therefore, not only baffled and disappointed, but +in some degree disheartened and discontented. All our plans had as yet proved +abortive; even this, upon which so much reliance had been placed, was found to +be of no avail; and it must be confessed that something like murmuring began to +be heard through the camp. And, in truth, if ever an army might be permitted to +murmur, it was this. In landing they had borne great hardships, not only +without repining, but with cheerfulness; their hopes had been excited by false +reports, as to the practicability of the attempt in which they were embarked; +and now they found themselves entangled amidst difficulties from which there +appeared to be no escape, except by victory. In their attempts upon the +enemy’s line, however, they had been twice foiled; in artillery they +perceived themselves to be so greatly overmatched, that their own could hardly +assist them; their provisions, being derived wholly from the fleet, were both +scanty and coarse; and their rest was continually broken. For not only did the +canon and mortars from the main of the enemy’s position play +unremittingly upon them both by day and night, but they were likewise exposed +to a deadly fire from the opposite bank of the river, where no less than +eighteen pieces of artillery were now mounted, and swept the entire line of our +encampment. Besides all this, to undertake the duty of a piquet was as +dangerous as to go into action. Parties of American sharpshooters harassed and +disturbed those appointed to that service from the time they took possession of +their post till they were relieved; whilst to light fires at night was +impossible, because they served but as certain marks for the enemy’s +gunners. I repeat, therefore, that a little murmuring could not be wondered at. +Be it observed, however, that these were not the murmurs of men anxious to +escape from a disagreeable situation by any means. On the contrary, they +resembled rather the growling of a chained dog, when he sees his adversary and +cannot reach him; for in all their complaints, no man ever hinted at a retreat, +whilst all were eager to bring matters to the issue of a battle, at any +sacrifice of loves. +</p> + +<p> +Nor was our gallant leader less anxious to fight than his followers. To fight +upon something like equal terms was, however, his wish; and for this purpose a +new scheme was invented, worthy, for its boldness, of the school in which Sir +Edward had studied his profession. It was determined to divide the army, to +send part across the river, who should seize the enemy’s guns, and turn +them on themselves; whilst the remainder should at time make a general assault +along the whole entrenchment. But before this plan could be put into execution, +it would be necessary to cut a canal across the entire neck of land from the +Bayo de Catiline to the river, of sufficient width and depth to admit of boats +being brought up from the lake. Upon this arduous undertaking were the troops +immediately employed. Being divided into four companies, they laboured by +turns, day and night; one party relieving another after a stated number of +hours, in such order as that the work should never be entirely deserted. The +fatigue undergone during the prosecution of this attempt no words can +sufficiently describe; yet it was pursued without repining, and at length, by +unremitting exertions, they succeeded in effecting their purpose by the 6th of +January. +</p> + +<p> +Whilst these things were going on, and men’s minds were anxiously turned +towards approaching events, fresh spirit was given to the army by the +unexpected arrival of Major-General Lambert, with the 7th and 43rd; two fine +battalions, mustering each 800 effective men. By this reinforcement, together +with the addition of a body of sailors and marines from the fleet, our numbers +amounted now to little short of 6000 men; a force which, in almost any other +quarter of America, would have been irresistible. Of the numbers of the enemy, +again, various reports were in circulation; some stating them at 20,000, others +at 30,000; but I believe that I come nearer the truth when I suppose their +whole force to have comprised 12,000 men of all arms. It is, at least, certain +that they exceeded us in numbers as much as they did in resources; and that +scarcely an hour passed which did not bring in new levies to their camp. +</p> + +<p> +The canal, as I have stated, being finished on the 6th, it was resolved to lose +no time in making use of it. Boats were accordingly ordered up for the +transportation of 1400 men; and Colonel Thornton, with the 85th regiment, the +marines, and a party of sailors, was appointed to cross the river. But a number +of untoward accidents occurred, to spoil a plan of operations as accurately +laid down as any in the course of the war. The soil through which the canal was +dug being soft, part of the bank gave way, and, choking up the channel, +prevented the heaviest of the boats from getting forward. These again blocked +up the passage, so that none of those which were behind could proceed; and +thus, instead of a flotilla for the accommodation of 1400 men, only a number of +boats sufficient to contain 350 was enabled to reach their destination. Even +these did not arrive at the time appointed. According to the preconcerted plan, +Colonel Thornton’s detachment was to cross the river immediately after +dark. They were to push forward, so as to carry all the batteries, and point +the guns before daylight; when, on the throwing up of a rocket, they were to +commence firing upon the enemy’s line, which at the same moment was to be +attacked by the main off our army. +</p> + +<p> +In this manner was one part of the force to act, whilst the rest thus +appointed:—Dividing his troops into three columns, Sir Edward directed +that General Keane, at the head of the 95th, the light companies of the 21st, +4th, and 44th, together with the two black corps, should make a demonstration, +or sham attack, upon the right; that General Gibbs, with the 4th, 21st, 44th, +and 93rd, should force the enemy’s left, whilst General Lambert, with the +7th and 43rd, remained in reserve, ready to act as circumstances might require. +But in storming an entrenched position, something more than bare courage is +required. Scaling ladders and fascines had, therefore, been prepared, with +which to fill up the ditch and mount the wall; and since to carry these a +service of danger, requiring a corps well worthy of dependence, the 44th was +for that purpose selected, as a regiment of sufficient numerical strength, and +already accustomed to American warfare. Thus were all things arranged on the +night the 7th, for the 8th was fixed upon as the day decisive of the fate of +New Orleans. +</p> + +<h3>ATTACK.</h3> + +<p> +Whilst the rest of the army lay down to sleep till they should be roused up to +fight, Colonel Thornton, with the 85th, and a corps of marines and seamen, +amounting in all to 1400 men, moved down to the brink of the river. As yet, +however, no boats had arrived; hour after hour elapsed before they came; and +when they did come, the misfortunes which I have stated above were discovered, +for out of all that had been ordered up, only a few made their appearance. +Still it was absolutely necessary that this part of the plan should be carried +into execution. Dismissing, therefore, the rest of his followers, the Colonel +put himself at the head of his own regiment, about fifty seamen, and as many +marines, and with this small force, consisting of no more than 340 men, pushed +off. But, unfortunately, the loss of time nothing could repair. Instead of +reaching the opposite bank at latest by midnight, dawn was beginning to appear +before the boats quitted the canal. It was in vain that they rowed on in +perfect silence, and with oars muffled, gaining the point of debarkation +without being perceived. It was in vain that they made good their landing and +formed upon the beach, without opposition or alarm; day had already broke, and +the signal-rocket was seen in the air, while they were yet four miles from the +batteries, which ought hours ago to have been taken. +</p> + +<p> +In the mean time, the main body armed and moved forward some way in front of +the piquets. There they stood waiting for daylight, and listening with the +greatest anxiety for the firing which ought now to be heard on the opposite +bank. But their attention was exerted in vain, and day dawned upon them long +before they desired its appearance. Nor was Sir Edward Pakenham disappointed in +this part of his plan alone. Instead of perceiving everything in readiness for +the assault, he saw his troops in battle array, but not a ladder or fascine +upon the field. The 44th, which was appointed to carry them, had either +misunderstood or neglected their orders; and now headed the column of attack, +without any means being provided for crossing the enemy’s ditch or +scaling his rampart. +</p> + +<p> +The indignation of our brave leader on this occasion may be imagined, but +cannot be described. Galloping towards Colonel Mullens, who led the 44th, he +commanded him instantly to return with his regiment for the ladders, but the +opportunity of planting them was lost, and though they were brought up, it was +only to be scattered over the field by the frightened bearers. For our troops +were by this time visible to the enemy. A dreadful fire was accordingly opened +upon them, and they were mowed down by hundreds, while they stood waiting for +orders. +</p> + +<p> +Seeing that all his well-laid plans were frustrated, Pakenham gave the word to +advance, and the other regiments, leaving the 44th with the ladders and +fascines behind them, rushed on to the assault. On the left, a detachment under +Colonel Rennie, of the 21st regiment, stormed a three-gun battery, and took it. +Here they remained for some time in expectation of support; but none arriving, +and a strong column of the enemy forming for its recovery, they determined to +anticipate the attack, and pushed on. The battery which they had taken was in +advance of the body of the works, being cut off from it by a ditch, across +which only a single plank was thrown. Along this plank did these brave men +attempt to pass; but being opposed by overpowering numbers, they were repulsed; +and the Americans, in turn, forcing their way into the battery, at length +succeeded in recapturing it with immense slaughter. On the right, again, the +21st and 4th, supported by the 93rd, though thrown into some confusion by the +enemy’s fire, pushed on with desperate gallantry to the ditch; but to +scale the parapet without ladders was a work of no slight difficulty. Some few, +indeed, by mounting one upon another’s shoulders, succeeded in entering +the works, but these were speedily overpowered, most of them killed, and the +rest taken; whilst as many as stood without were exposed to a sweeping fire, +which cut them down by whole companies. It was in vain that the most obstinate +courage was displayed. They fell by the hands of men whom they absolutely did +not see; for the Americans, without so much as lifting their faces above the +rampart, swung their firelocks by one arm over the wall, and discharged them +directly upon their heads. The whole of the guns likewise, from the opposite +bank, kept up a well-directed and deadly cannonade upon their flank; and thus +were they destroyed without an opportunity being given of displaying their +valour, or obtaining so much as revenge. +</p> + +<p> +Sir Edward saw how things were going, and did all that a general could do to +rally his broken troops. Riding towards the 44th, which had returned to the +ground, but in great disorder, he called out for Colonel Mullens to advance; +but that officer disappeared, and was not to be found. He therefore prepared to +lead them on himself, and had put himself at their head for that purpose, when +he received a slight wound in the knee from a musket-ball, which killed his +horse. Mounting another, he again headed the 44th, when a second ball took +effect more fatally, and he dropped lifeless into the arms of his aide-de-camp. +</p> + +<p> +Nor were Generals Gibbs and Keane inactive. Riding through the ranks, they +strove by all means to encourage the assailants and recall the fugitives; till +at length both were wounded, and borne off the field. All was now confusion and +dismay. Without leaders, ignorant of what was to be done, the troops first +halted and then began to retire; till finally the retreat was changed into a +flight, and they quitted the ground in the utmost disorder. But the retreat was +covered in gallant style by the reserve. Making a forward motion, the 7th and +43rd presented the appearance of a renewed attack; by which the enemy were so +much awed, that they did not venture beyond their lines in pursuit of the +fugitives. +</p> + +<p> +Whilst affairs were thus disastrously conducted in this quarter, the party +under Colonel Thornton had gained the landing-place. On stepping ashore, the +first thing they beheld was a rocket thrown up as a signal that the battle was +begun. This unwelcome sight added wings to their speed. Forming in one little +column, and pushing forward a single company as an advanced guard, they +hastened on, and in half an hour reached a canal, along the opposite bank of +which a detachment of Americans was drawn up. To dislodge them was the work of +a moment a boat, with a carronade in her bow, got upon their flank, gave them a +single discharge of grape, whilst the advanced guard extended its ranks, and +approached at double-quick time. But they scarcely waited till the latter were +within range, when, firing a volley, they fled in confusion. This, however, was +only an outpost: the main body was some way in rear, and amounted to no fewer +than 1500 men. +</p> + +<p> +It was not long, however, before they likewise presented themselves. Like their +countrymen on the other side, they were strongly entrenched, a thick parapet +with a ditch covering their front; whilst a battery upon their left swept the +whole position, and two field-pieces commanded the road. Of artillery the +assailants possessed not a single piece, nor any means beyond what nature +supplied of scaling the rampart. Yet nothing daunted by the obstacles before +them, or by the immense odds to which they were opposed, dispositions for an +immediate attack were made. The 85th, extending its files, stretched across the +entire line of the enemy; the sailors in column prepared to storm the battery, +whilst the marines remained some little way in rear of the centre as a reserve. +</p> + +<p> +These arrangements being completed, the bugle sounded, and our troops advanced. +The sailors raising a shout, rushed forward, but were met by so heavy a +discharge of grape and canister that for an instant they paused. Recovering +themselves, however, they again pushed on; and the 85th dashing forward to +their aid, they received a heavy fire of musketry, and endeavoured to charge. A +smart firing was now for a few minutes kept up on both sides, but our people +had no time to waste in distant fighting, and accordingly hurried on to storm +the works, upon which a panic seized the Americans, they lost their order, and +fled, leaving us in possession of their tents and of eighteen pieces of cannon. +</p> + +<p> +In this affair our loss amounted to only three men killed and about forty +wounded, among the latter of whom was Colonel Thornton. Nor could the loss on +the part of the enemy greatly exceed our own. Had they stood firm, indeed, it +is hardly conceivable that so small a force could have wrested an entrenched +position from numbers so superior; at least it could not have been done without +much bloodshed. But they were completely surprised. An attack on this side was +a circumstance of which they had not dreamed; and when men are assaulted in a +point which they deem beyond the reach of danger, it is well known that they +defend themselves with less vigour than where such an event was anticipated. +</p> + +<p> +When in the act of storming these lines the word was passed through our ranks +that all had gone well on the opposite bank. This naturally added to the vigour +of the assault; but we had not followed our flying enemy above two miles when +we were commanded to halt. The real state of the case had now reached us, and +the same messenger who brought the melancholy news brought likewise an order to +return. +</p> + +<p> +The place where we halted was in rear of a canal, across which was thrown a +wooden bridge, furnishing apparently the only means of passing. At the opposite +end of this bridge stood a collection of wooden cottages and one chateau of +some size. Here a company was stationed to serve the double purpose of a piquet +and a rear-guard; whilst the main body, having rested for half an hour, began +their march towards the point where they had landed. +</p> + +<h3>RE-EMBARKATION—THE CAMP.</h3> + +<p> +As soon as the column had got sufficiently on their way the piquet likewise +prepared to follow. But in doing so it was evident that some risk must be run. +The enemy having rallied, began again to show a front; that is to say, parties +of sixty or a hundred men approached to reconnoitre. These, however, must be +deceived, otherwise a pursuit might be commenced, and the re-embarkation of the +whole corps hindered or prevented. It so happened that the piquet in question +was this day under my command; as soon, therefore, as I received information +that the main body had commenced its retreat, I formed my men, and made a show +of advancing. The Americans perceiving this, fled; when, wheeling about, we set +fire to the chateau, and under cover of the smoke destroyed the bridge and +retreated. Making all haste towards the rear, we overtook our comrades just as +they had begun to embark; when the little corps being once more united, entered +their boats, and reached the opposite bank without molestation. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap23"></a>CHAPTER XXIII.</h2> + +<h3>THE CAMP.</h3> + +<p> +As soon as the whole army was re-united, and the broken regiments had recovered +their order, a flag of truce was dispatched with proposals for the burial of +the dead. To accomplish this end a truce of two days was agreed upon, and +parties were immediately sent out to collect and bury their fallen comrades. +Prompted by curiosity, I mounted my horse and rode to the front; but of all the +sights I ever witnessed, that which met me there was beyond comparison the most +shocking and the most humiliating. Within the narrow compass of a few hundred +yards were gathered together nearly a thousand bodies, all of them arrayed in +British uniforms. Not a single American was among them; all were English; and +they were thrown by dozens into shallow holes, scarcely deep enough to furnish +them with a slight covering of earth. Nor was this all. An American officer +stood by smoking a cigar, and apparently counting the slain with a look of +savage exultation, and repeating over and over to each individual that +approached him, that their loss amounted only, to eight men killed and fourteen +wounded. +</p> + +<p> +I confess that when I beheld the scene I hung down my head, half in sorrow and +half in anger. With my officious informant I had every inclination to pick a +quarrel; but he was on duty, and an armistice existed, both of which forbade +the measure. I could not, however, stand by and repress my choler, and since to +give it vent would have subjected me to more serious inconvenience than a mere +duel, I turned my horse’s head and galloped back to the camp. +</p> + +<p> +But the change of expression visible there in every countenance no language can +portray. Only twenty hours ago, and all was life and animation; wherever you +went you were enlivened by the sound of merriment and raillery; whilst the +expected attack was mentioned in terms indicative not only of sanguine hope, +but, of the most perfect confidence as to its result. Now gloom and discontent +everywhere prevailed. Disappointment, grief, indignation, and rage, succeeded +each other in all bosoms; nay, so completely were the troops overwhelmed by a +sense of disgrace, that for awhile they retained their sorrow without so much +as hinting at its cause. Nor was this dejection occasioned wholly by the +consciousness of laurels tarnished. The loss of comrades was to the full as +afflicting as the loss of honour; for out of more than 5000 men brought on this +side into the field, no fewer than 1500 had fallen. Among these were two +generals (for Gibbs survived his wound but a few hours), and many officers of +courage and ability; besides which, hardly an individual survived who had not +to mourn the loss of some particular and well-known companion. +</p> + +<p> +Yet it is most certain that amidst all this variety of conflicting passions no +feeling bordering upon despair or even terror found room. Even among the +private soldiers no fear was experienced; for if you attempted to converse with +them on the subject of the late defeat, they would end with a bitter curse upon +those to whose misconduct they attributed their losses, and refer you to the +future, when they hoped for an opportunity of revenge. To the Americans they +would allow no credit, laying the entire blame of the failure upon certain +individuals among themselves; and so great was the indignation expressed +against one corps, that the soldiers of other regiments would hardly exchange +words with those who chanced to wear that uniform. Though deeply afflicted, +therefore, we were by no means disheartened, and even, yet anticipated, with an +eagerness far exceeding what was felt before, a renewal of the combat. +</p> + +<h3>PREPARATIONS FOR RETREAT.</h3> + +<p> +But General Lambert, on whom the chief command had devolved, very prudently +determined not to risk the safety of his army by another attempt upon works +evidently so much beyond their strength. He considered, and considered justly, +that his chances of success were in every respect lessened by the late repulse. +In the first place, an extraordinary degree of confidence was given to the +enemy; in the next place, the only feasible plan of attack having been already +tried, they would be more on their guard to prevent its being again put in +execution; and lastly, his own force was greatly diminished in numbers, whilst +theirs continued every day to increase. Besides, it would be casting all upon +the hazard of a die. If again defeated, nothing could save our army from +destruction, because unless it retreated in force no retreat could be effected. +A retreat, therefore, whilst yet the measure appeared practicable, was resolved +upon, and towards that end were all our future operations directed. +</p> + +<p> +To the accomplishment of this desirable object, however, one great obstacle +existed: by what road were the troops to travel, and in what order were they to +regain the fleet? On landing we had taken advantage of the creek or bayo, and +thus come up by water within two miles of the cultivated country. But to adopt +a similar course in returning was impossible. In spite of our losses there were +not throughout the armament a sufficient number of boats to transport above +one-half of the army at a time. If, however, we should separate, the chances +were that both parties would be destroyed; for those embarked might be +intercepted, and those left behind would be obliged to cope with the entire +American force. Besides, even granting that the Americans might be repulsed, it +would be impossible to take to our boats in their presence, and thus at least +one division, if not both, must be sacrificed. +</p> + +<p> +To obviate this difficulty prudence required that the road which we had formed +on landing should be continued to the very margin of the lake; whilst +appearances seemed to indicate the total impracticability of the scheme. From +firm ground to the water’s edge was here a distance of many miles, +through the very centre of a morass where human foot had never before trodden. +Yet it was desirable at least to make the attempt; for if it failed we should +only be reduced to our former alternative of gaining a battle or surrendering +at discretion. +</p> + +<p> +Having determined to adopt this course, General Lambert immediately dispatched +strong working parties, under the guidance of engineer officers, to lengthen +the road, keeping as near as possible to the margin of the creek. But the task +assigned to them was burthened with innumerable difficulties. For the extent of +several leagues no firm footing could be discovered on which to rest the +foundation of a path; nor any trees to assist in forming hurdles. All that +could be done, therefore, was to bind together large quantities of reeds, and +lay them across the quagmire; by which means at least the semblance of a road +was produced, however wanting in firmness and solidity. But where broad ditches +came in the way, many of which intersected the morass, the workmen were +necessarily obliged to apply more durable materials. For these, bridges +composed in part of large branches brought with immense labour from the woods, +were constructed; but they were, on the whole, little superior in point of +strength to the rest of the path, for though the edges were supported by +timber, the middle was filled up only with reeds. +</p> + +<p> +To complete this road, bad as it was, occupied the space of nine days, during +which time our army remained in position without making any attempt to molest +the enemy. The Americans, however, were not so inactive. In the course of two +days six guns were again mounted upon the bank of the river, from which a +continual fire was kept up upon our camp. The same mode of proceeding was +adopted in front, and thus, night and day, were we harassed by danger against +which there was no fortifying ourselves. Of the extreme unpleasantness of our +situation it is hardly possible to convey any adequate conception. We never +closed our eyes in peace, for we were sure to be awakened before many minutes +elapsed, by the splash of a round shot or shell in the mud beside us. Tents we +had none, but lay, some in the open air, and some in huts made of boards, or +any materials that could be procured. From the first moment of our landing not +a man had undressed excepting to bathe; and many had worn the same shirt for +weeks together, Besides all this, heavy rains now set in, accompanied with +violent storms of thunder and lightning, which lasting during the entire day, +usually ceased towards dark, and gave place to keen frosts. Thus were we +alternately wet and frozen: wet all day, and frozen all night. With the +outposts again there was constant skirmishing. With what view the Americans +wished to drive them in I cannot tell; but every day were they attacked, and +compelled to maintain their ground by dint of hard fighting. In one word, none +but those who happened to belong to this army can form a notion of the +hardships which it endured and the fatigue which it underwent. +</p> + +<p> +Nor were these the only evils which tended to lessen our numbers. To our +soldiers every inducement was held out by the enemy to desert. Printed papers, +offering lands and money as the price of desertion, were thrown into the +piquets, whilst individuals made a practice of approaching our posts, and +endeavouring to persuade the very sentinels to quit their stations. Nor could +it be expected that bribes so tempting would always be refused. Many desertions +began daily to take place, and became before long so frequent, that the evil +rose to be of a serious nature. +</p> + +<p> +There occurred, however, one instance of magnanimous fidelity on the part of a +British soldier, which I cannot resist the inclination of repeating. A private +of the 95th, whose name I should have joyfully mentioned had I not forgotten +it, chanced one day to stand sentinel, when he was addressed by an American +officer. The American offered him a hundred dollars and a quantity of land if +he would come over; representing, at the same time, the superiority of a +democratical government, and railing, as these persons generally do, against +the title of king. Though the Englishman heard what was said distinctly enough, +he nevertheless pretended to be deaf, and begged his tempter to come a little +nearer, that, in his own words, “he might tell him all about it.” +Jonathan, exulting at the prospect of drawing this fine fellow from his duty, +approached within twenty paces of where he stood, when just as he had opened +his mouth to renew his offer, the sentinel levelled his piece and shot him +through the arm. Nor was he contented with inflicting this punishment. Walking +forward, he seized his wounded enemy, and reproaching him with dishonourable +dealings, brought him in a prisoner to the camp. But, unhappily, conduct such +as this was rare; in the course of a week many men quitted their colours, and +fled to the enemy. +</p> + +<h3>RETREAT.</h3> + +<p> +In the mean time the whole of the wounded, except such as were too severely +hurt to be removed, were embarked upon the canal, and sent off to the fleet. +Next followed the baggage and stores, with the civil officers, commissaries, +purveyors, &c.; and last of all, such of the light artillery as could be +withdrawn with out trouble or the risk of discovery. But of the heavy +artillery, of which about ten pieces were mounted in front of the bivouac, and +upon the bank of the river, no account was taken. They were ship’s guns, +of little value, and extremely cumbersome; consequently their removal, had it +been practicable, would scarcely have rewarded the trouble. It was therefore +determined to leave them behind; and they were accordingly permitted to retain +their stations to the last. +</p> + +<p> +These preparations being continued for some days, on the 17th no part of our +force remained in camp except the infantry. Having therefore delayed only till +the abandoned guns were rendered unserviceable, on the evening of the 18th it +also began its retreat. Trimming the fires, and arranging all things in the +same order as if no change were to take place, regiment after regiment stole +away, as soon as darkness concealed their motions; leaving the piquets to +follow as a rear-guard, but with strict injunctions not to retire till daylight +began to appear. As may be supposed, the most profound silence was maintained; +not a man opening his mouth, except to issue necessary orders, and even then +speaking in a whisper. Not a cough or any other noise was to be heard from the +head to the rear of the column; and even the steps of the soldiers were planted +with care, to prevent the slightest stamping or echo. Nor was this extreme +caution in any respect unnecessary. In spite of every endeavour to the +contrary, a rumour of our intended movement had reached the Americans for we +found them of late watchful and prying, whereas they had been formerly content +to look only to themselves. +</p> + +<p> +For some time, that is to say, while our route lay along the high road and +beside the brink of the river, the march was agreeable enough; but as soon as +we began to enter upon the path through the marsh all comfort was at an end. +Being constructed of materials so slight, and resting upon a foundation so +infirm, the treading of the first corps unavoidably beat it to pieces; those +which followed were therefore compelled to flounder on in the best way they +could; and by the time the rear of the column gained the morass all trace of a +way had entirely disappeared. But not only were the reeds torn asunder and sunk +by the pressure of those who had gone before, but the bog itself, which at +first might have furnished a few spots of firm footing, was trodden into the +consistency of mud. The consequence was, that every step sank us to the knees, +and frequently higher. Near the ditches, indeed, many spots occurred which we +had the utmost difficulty in crossing at all; and as the night was dark, there +being no moon, nor any light except what the stars supplied, it was difficult +to select our steps, or even to follow those who called to us that they were +safe on the opposite side. At one of these places I myself beheld an +unfortunate wretch gradually sink till he totally disappeared. I saw him +flounder in, heard his cry for help, and ran forward with the intention of +saving him; but before I had taken a second step, I myself sank at once as high +as the breast. How I contrived to keep myself from smothering is more than I +can tell, for I felt no solid bottom under me, and continued slowly to go +deeper and deeper till the mud reached my arms. Instead of endeavouring to help +the poor soldier, of whom nothing could now be seen except the head and hands, +I was forced to beg assistance for myself: when a leathern canteen strap being +thrown to me, I laid hold of it, and was dragged out just as my fellow-sufferer +became invisible. +</p> + +<p> +Over roads such as these did we continue our journey during the whole of the +night: and in the morning reached a place called Fisherman’s huts, upon +the margin of the lake. The name is derived from a clump of mud-built cottages, +situated in as complete a desert as the eye of man was ever pained by +beholding. They stand close to the water, upon a part of the morass rather more +firm than the rest. Not a tree or bush of any description grows near them. As +far as the eye could reach a perfect ocean of reeds everywhere presented +itself, except on that side where a view of the lake changed without +fertilizing the prospect. Were any set of human beings condemned to spend their +lives here, I should consider their fate as little superior to that of the +solitary captive: but during many months of the year these huts are wholly +unoccupied, being erected, as their name denotes, merely to shelter a few +fishermen while the fishing season lasts. +</p> + +<p> +Here at length we were ordered to halt; and perhaps I never rejoiced more +sincerely at any order than at this. Wearied with my exertions, and oppressed +with want of sleep, I threw myself on the ground without so much as pulling off +my muddy garments, and in an instant all my cares and troubles were forgotten. +Nor did I wake from that deep slumber for many hours, when I rose cold and +stiff, and creeping beside a miserable fire of reeds, addressed myself to the +last morsel of salt pork which my wallet contained. +</p> + +<h3>HALT.</h3> + +<p> +The whole army had now come up, the piquets having escaped without notice, or +at least without annoyance. Forming along the brink of the lake, a line of +outposts was planted, and the soldiers were commanded to make themselves as +comfortable as they could. But, in truth, the word comfort is one which cannot +in any sense be applied to people in such a situation. Without tents or huts of +any description (for the few from which the place is named were occupied by the +General and other heads of departments), our bed was the morass, and our sole +covering the clothes which had not quitted our backs for upwards of a month. +Our fires, upon the size and goodness of which much of a soldier’s +happiness depends, were composed solely of reeds; a species of fuel which, like +straw, soon blazes up, and soon expires again, almost without communicating any +degree of warmth. But, above all, our provisions were expended, and from what +quarter to obtain an immediate supply it defied the most inventive genius to +discover. Our sole dependence was upon the boats. Of these a flotilla lay ready +to receive us, in which were embarked the black corps, with the 44th; but they +had brought with them only food for their own use. It was therefore necessary +that they should reach the fleet and return again before they could furnish us +with what we so much wanted. But the distance to the nearest of the shipping +could not be less than eighty miles; and if the weather should become +boisterous or the winds obstinately adverse we might starve before any supply +could arrive. +</p> + +<p> +These numerous grievances were, however, without remedy, and we bore them with +patience; though for two whole days the only provisions issued to the troops +were some crumbs of biscuit and a small allowance of rum. For my own part I did +not fare so badly as many others. Having been always fond of shooting, I took a +firelock and went in pursuit of wild ducks, which abounded throughout the bog. +Wandering along in this quest I reached a lake, by the margin of which I +concealed myself and waited for my prey; nor was it long before I had an +opportunity of firing. Several large flocks flew over me, and I was fortunate +enough to kill three birds. But, alas, those birds, upon which I had already +feasted in imagination, dropped into the water: my dog, more tired than her +master, would not fetch them out, and they lay about twenty yards off, +tantalizing me with the sight of a treasure which I could not reach. Moving off +to another point, I again took my station where I hoped for better fortune; but +the same evil chance once more occurred, and the ducks fell into the lake. This +was too much for a hungry man to endure; the day was piercingly cold, and the +edge of the pool was covered with ice; but my appetite was urgent, and I +resolved at all hazards to indulge it. Pulling off my clothes, therefore, I +broke the ice and plunged in; and though shivering like an aspen-leaf, I +returned safely to the camp with a couple of birds. Next day I adopted a +similar course with like success, but at the expense of what was to me a +serious misery. My stockings of warm wool were the only part of my dress which +I did not strip off, and to-day it unfortunately happened that one was lost. +Having secured my ducks, I attempted to land where the bottom was muddy; but my +leg stuck fast, and in pulling it out off came the stocking; to recover it was +beyond my power, for the mud closed over it directly, and the consequence was +that till I regained the transport only one of my feet could be warm at a time. +To those who can boast of many pairs of fine cotton and woollen hose, this +misfortune of mine may appear light, but to me, who had only two stockings on +shore, the loss of one was very grievous; and I therefore request that I may +not be sneered at when I record it as one of the disastrous consequences of +this ill-fated expedition. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap24"></a>CHAPTER XXIV.</h2> + +<h3>THE LAKE.</h3> + +<p> +As soon as the boats returned, regiment after regiment embarked and set sail +for the fleet; but the distance being considerable and the wind foul, many days +elapsed before the whole could be got off. Excepting in one trifling instance, +however, no accident occurred, and by the end of the month we were all once +more on board our former ships. But our return was far from triumphant. We, who +only seven weeks ago had set out in the surest confidence of glory, and I may +add of emolument, were brought back dispirited and dejected. Our ranks were +wofully thinned, our chiefs slain, our clothing tattered and filthy, and even +our discipline in some degree injured. A gloomy silence reigned throughout the +armament, except when it was broken by the voice of lamentation over fallen +friends; and the interior of each ship presented a scene well calculated to +prove the short-sightedness of human hope and human prudence. +</p> + +<p> +The accident to which I allude was the capture of a single boat by the enemy. +About thirty men of the 14th dragoons having crowded into an unarmed barge, +were proceeding slowly down the lake, when a boat mounting a carronade in its +bow suddenly darted from a creek and made towards them. To escape was +impossible, for their barge was too heavily laden to move at a rate of even +moderate rapidity; and to fight was equally out of the question, because of the +superiority which their cannon gave to the Americans. The whole party was +accordingly compelled to surrender to six men and an officer; and having thrown +their arms into the lake, their boat was taken in tow and they were carried +away prisoners. +</p> + +<p> +This, however, was the only misfortune which occurred. Warned by the fate of +their comrades, the rest kept together in little squadrons, each attended by +one or more armed launches; and thus rowing steadily on, they gained the +shipping without so much as another attempt at surprisal being made. +</p> + +<p> +On reaching the fleet, we found that a considerable reinforcement of troops had +arrived from England. It consisted of the 40th foot, a fine regiment, +containing nearly a thousand men, which, ignorant of the fatal issue of our +attack, had crossed the lakes only to be sent back to the ships without so much +as stepping on shore. The circumstance, however, produced little satisfaction. +We felt that the coming of thrice the number could not recover what was lost or +recall past events; and therefore no rejoicing was heard, nor the slightest +regard paid to the occurrence. Nay, so great was the despondency which had +taken possession of men’s minds, that not even a rumour respecting the +next point of attack obtained circulation; whilst a sullen carelessness, a sort +of indifference as to what might happen, seemed to have succeeded all our +wonted curiosity and confidence of success in every undertaking. +</p> + +<h3>THE LAKE—MOBILE.</h3> + +<p> +In this state we remained wind-bound till the 4th of February, when, at length +getting under weigh, the fleet ran down as far as Cat Island. This is a spot of +sandy soil at the mouth of the lake, remarkable for nothing except a solitary +Spanish family which possesses it. Completely cut off from the rest of the +world, an old man, his wife, two daughters, and a son, dwell here in apparent +happiness and contentment. Being at least one hundred and twenty miles from the +main, it is seldom that their little kingdom is visited by strangers; and I +believe that till our arrival the daughters, though grown up to womanhood, had +seen few faces besides those of their parents and brother. Their cottage, +composed simply of a few boughs, thatched and in-woven with straw, is +beautifully situated within a short distance of the water. Two cows and a few +sheep grazed beside it; whilst a small tract of ground covered with stubble, +and a little garden well stocked with fruit-trees and vegetables, at once gave +proof of their industry, and showed the source from whence they supplied +themselves with bread. +</p> + +<p> +Having remained here till the 7th, we again took advantage of a fair wind and +stood to sea. As soon as we had cleared the lake, we directed our course +towards the east, steering, as it was rumoured, upon Mobile; nor was it long +before we came in sight of the bay which bears that name. It is formed by a +projecting headland called Point Bayo, and a large island called Isle Dauphin. +Upon the first is erected a small fort, possessing the same title with the +promontory which commands the entrance; for though the island is, at least five +miles from the main, there is no water for floating a ship of any burthen +except within a few hundred yards of the latter. The island is, like Cat +Island, uninhabited, except by one family, and unprovided with any works of +defence. +</p> + +<h3>SIEGE.</h3> + +<p> +As the attack of Mobile was professedly our object, it was clear that nothing +could be done previous to the reduction of the fort. The ships accordingly +dropped anchor at the mouth of the bay, and immediate preparations were made +for the siege. But the fort was too inconsiderable in point of size to require +the employment of all our forces in its investment. Whilst one brigade, +therefore, was allotted to this service, the rest proceeded to establish +themselves on the island, where, carrying tents and other conveniences on +shore, the first regular encampment which we had seen since our arrival in this +hemisphere was formed. +</p> + +<p> +The spot of ground, of which we had now taken possession, extended twelve miles +in length, and from one to three in width. Its soil is in general dry and +sandy, well covered with grass, and ornamented by continued groves of pine, +cedar, oak, and laurel. On one side only is there a swamp, but not of +sufficient size to contaminate the atmosphere of the whole, which is considered +so peculiarly healthy, that the place is generally used as a depot for the sick +in the American army. At present, as I have said, it was tenanted by no more +than a single family, the master of which was a midshipman in the American +navy, and banished hither for some misdemeanor; but what was to us of much +greater importance, it was likewise stocked with cattle resembling in +appearance the black cattle of the Highlands of Scotland, and not behind them +in point of wildness. +</p> + +<p> +Whilst the remainder of the army spent their time here, the 4th, 21st, and +44th, being landed above the fort, were busied in the siege. This small work +stands, as I have stated, at the extremity of a promontory. Towards the sea its +fortifications are respectable enough, but on the land side it is little better +than a blockhouse. The ramparts being composed of sand, not more than three +feet in thickness, are faced with plank barely cannon-proof; whilst a sand-hill +rising within pistol-shot of the ditch, completely commands them. Within, +again, the fort is as much wanting in accommodation as it is in strength. There +are no bomb-proof barracks, nor any hole or arch under which men might find +protection from shells; indeed, so deficient is it in common lodging-rooms, +that a great part of the garrison slept in tents. To reduce this place, +therefore, occupied but a short time. The troops having assembled on the 8th, +drove the enemy within their lines on the 9th, and broke ground the same +evening. On the 10th, four eighteen-pounders with two howitzers were placed in +battery upon the top of the sand-hill; on the 11th, the fort surrendered; and +on the 12th, the garrison, consisting of four hundred men of the second +American regiment, marched out with all the honours of war, and laid down their +arms upon the glacis. +</p> + +<h3>PEACE.</h3> + +<p> +With the reduction of this trifling work ended all hostilities in this quarter +of America, for the army had scarcely re-assembled when intelligence arrived +from England of peace. The news reached us on the 14th, and I shall not deny +that it was received with general satisfaction. Though war is the +soldier’s harvest, yet it must be confessed, that when carried on as it +had of late been conducted, it is a harvest of which men in time become weary; +and many of us having been absent for several years from our native shores, +experienced absolute delight at the prospect of returning once more to the +bosom of our families. The communication was therefore welcomed with unfeigned +joy, nor could any other topic of conversation gain attention throughout the +camp, except the anticipated re-embarkation. . +</p> + +<p> +But as the preliminaries only had been signed, and as Mr. Maddison’s +approval was required before we should be at liberty to depart, our army still +continued stationary upon the island. Of the President’s conduct, +however, no doubts were entertained; all thoughts of future military operations +were in consequence laid aside; and the sole aim of every individual +thenceforth was to make himself as comfortable as circumstances would permit. +To effect this end various expedients were adopted. Among others a theatre was +erected, in which such officers as chose to exhibit performed for their own +amusement and the amusement of their friends. In shooting and fishing, +likewise, much of our time was spent; and thus, by adopting the usual +expedients of idle men, we contrived to pass some days in a state of tolerable +comfort. +</p> + +<p> +Occupations such as these, however, soon grew insipid, and it was with sincere +rejoicing that on the 5th of March we were made acquainted with Mr. +Maddison’s agreement to the terms proposed. All was now hope and +exultation, an immediate departure was anticipated, and those were pitied as +unfortunate whose lot it was supposed, might detain them even a day behind +their fellows. But as yet no movement took place; our provisions were not +sufficient to authorize the undertaking so long a voyage as we must undertake, +did we attempt to run for the nearest British settlement; we were therefore +compelled to remain where we were, till a frigate should return, which had been +sent forward to solicit supplies from the Governor of Cuba. +</p> + +<p> +During this interval, the same occupations were resorted to; and others of a +less agreeable nature undertaken. As summer came on, the island sent forth +multitudes of snakes from their lurking- places, which infested the camp, +making their way in some instances into our very beds. This was bad enough, but +it was not the only nuisance to which we were subject. The alligators, which +during the winter months lie in a dormant state, now began to awaken, and +prowling about the margin of the pool, created no little alarm and agitation. +Apparently confounded at our invasion of their territories, these monsters at +first confined themselves to the marshy part of the island, but becoming by +degrees more familiar, they soon ventured to approach the very precincts of the +camp. One of them at length entered a tent; in which only a woman and child +chanced to be, and having stared round as if in amazement, walked out again +without offering to commit any violence. But the visit was of too serious a +nature to be overlooked. Parties were accordingly formed for their destruction, +and it was usual on the return of each from an excursion, instead of asking how +many birds, to demand how many snakes and alligators they had shot. Of the +former, indeed, great numbers were killed,`and of the latter not a few, the +largest of which measured about nine feet from the snout to the tail. +</p> + +<p> +Another employment, also, deserves to be noted, because it is truly +characteristic of the boyish jollity of young soldiers. Wearied with a state of +idleness, the officers of the 7th, 43rd, and 14th dragoons made an attack with +fir-apples upon those of the 85th, 93rd, and 95th. For the space of some days +they pelted each other from morning till night, laying ambuscades and +exhibiting, on a small scale, all the stratagems of war; whilst the whole army, +not even excepting the Generals themselves, stood by and spurred them on. +</p> + +<p> +But to continue a detail of such proceedings would only swell my narrative, +without amusing my reader; I shall therefore content myself with observing, +that things remained in this state till the 14th of March, when the long-looked +for frigate at length arrived, and on the 15th, the first division of the army +embarking, set sail for England. The wind, however, was foul, nor did the ships +make any way till the 17th, when a fresh breeze springing up, we stood our +course, and by ten o’clock on the 21st could distinguish the high land of +Cuba. But the violence of the gale having driven us considerably to leeward, we +were forced to bear up, and beat along the coast, on which account it was not +till the 23rd that we came opposite to the port of Havannah. +</p> + +<h3>HAVANNAH.</h3> + +<p> +Than the approach to this city, and its first appearance from the water, it is +impossible to conceive anything more grand and imposing. A little bay, +extremely narrow at the entrance, forms the harbour. On each side of it stand +forts of prodigious strength, particularly those on the left, where the ground +is considerably elevated, whilst the city itself, with its ramparts and towers, +its numerous steeples, spires, and public buildings, gives an assurance of +wealth and magnificence peculiarly striking. When we entered, every tower was +surmounted by a national banner half-mast high, a circumstance which did not at +least diminish the effect of a first view; and the guns from the forts +answering our salute, showed us how desperate must be the condition of an enemy +that should venture within their range. Why the flags should thus indicate a +general mourning, we were at a loss to guess, till the pilot informed us that +this was Holy week. Then, indeed, we remembered that we had returned to a Roman +Catholic country, and rejoiced at the lucky accident which had brought us +thither at such a season. +</p> + +<p> +As it was late before we anchored, I was prevented from landing that night, but +on the morrow I went on shore at an early hour, with the intention of seeing as +much as my time would allow. But in my proposed visits to the different points +worthy of attention I was interrupted. It was Good-Friday, consequently all +public places were shut, and neither guides nor carriages could be procured. +But if I was disappointed in this, my disappointment was amply compensated by a +view of the religious ceremonies peculiar to that day. +</p> + +<p> +Walking into the largest church in the city, I beheld beside the altar a figure +of our Saviour as large as life nailed to a cross. Beside this figure stood a +number of monks, one of whom presented a rod with a sponge affixed to its +mouth, while a second thrust a spear into its side, from which came out a +liquor having the colour of blood and water. This being carefully caught in a +golden dish, the figure was taken down from the cross, wrapped round with white +linen clothes, and laid upon a bier, when an imposing procession began in the +following order: First marched a military band playing slow and solemn music; +next came a guard of soldiers with heads bent down and arms reversed; then +followed about two hundred monks belonging to different orders, arrayed in +their dark robes, with hands and feet bare, and crucifixes suspended from their +necks. A short interval now succeeded, and another party of monks dressed in +white appeared, singing hymns in honour of the Virgin. Next came a splendid +couch surmounted by a canopy covered with white silk and sparkling with gold +and jewels, upon which sat a waxen image of the Mother of God, clothed in +gorgeous apparel. Following this was another party of white-robed monks, +chanting a requiem for a departed soul, and then a second interval. At the +distance of perhaps twenty yards from these came two monks bearing two large +silver nails, then two others bearing a spear and a rod, and then the body of +our Saviour stretched at full length upon the bier. After the bier came two +monks bearing two other nails, and then another two bearing a small cross and a +ladder. Here, again, there was another interval, which was succeeded by a third +white-robed party likewise chanting a requiem. Next to these came about twenty +canons arrayed in scarlet; then another couch covered with crimson velvet, +which supported a figure of Mary Magdalen, likewise in a sitting posture; then +a second body of canons, succeeded by about two hundred monks in black; after +these another guard of soldiers, and last of all a second military band. +</p> + +<p> +In spite of prejudice I could not avoid being deeply struck by this solemn +procession. The airs performed by the bands were slow and mournful, the voices +of the singers were deep and musical, the dresses were rich to a degree of +splendour, and the whole was gone through with much apparent devotion. No +doubt, when regarded with the eye of reflection, the whole may seem something +worse than ludicrous, but it is impossible to witness the scene and to reason +on its propriety at the same time. As long as the pageant is before your eyes +you cannot avoid being powerfully impressed by it; nor is it till after it has +disappeared that you are inclined to ask yourself why you gave way to feelings +of that nature. Yet among the natives I thought I could observe a considerable +degree of levity. It is true that as many as were in the streets or at the +windows dropped upon their knees while the procession passed, but their +careless looks and suppressed smiles sufficiently proved that they knelt only +because they were obliged to kneel. +</p> + +<p> +Commencing at the door of the church where the representation of the +crucifixion had been exhibited, the funeral party (for it was neither more nor +less) proceeded through the principal streets in the town with a slow and +measured pace. As all except the soldiers walked two and two, it covered, I +should conceive, little less than a mile in extent, and after winding from lane +to lane and from square to square, directed its steps towards a particular +convent, where the waxen image was solemnly deposited in a vault. It is said, +but with what truth I cannot pretend to determine, that a different image is +made use of every year, and that the vault is now so full of waxen corpses, +that it will be necessary before long to have some of them destroyed. +</p> + +<p> +Having now got rid of the most sacred part of their burthen, the monks, bearing +only the two couches, returned in procession by the same route and in the same +order as they had proceeded, only the bands struck up lively airs and the +singers chanted hymns of rejoicing and hallelujahs. Instead of walking at a +slow pace likewise, they stepped out almost in a sort of dance, and reaching +the door of the great church they there separated, each party hastening to its +own house to celebrate mass. +</p> + +<p> +Into one or two of the convent chapels I likewise entered, and was present +during the performance of their very striking service. I found them ornamented +in the most magnificent manner, the rafters of many being gilded over and all +the windows crowded with stained glass. Of pictures, and what struck me as +something better than mere daubs, there were also great numbers. In a word, it +seemed as if I had reached the heart and capital of Roman Catholic splendour. +Nothing that I had beheld in the mother-country could at all compare with what +was now before me, and I returned in the evening to my ship, not indeed a +convert to the principles of that religion, but decidedly astonished and +confounded at the solemn magnificence of its ceremonies. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap25"></a>CHAPTER XXV.</h2> + +<p> +At an early hour next morning I returned to the city, and found that the face +of affairs had undergone a complete revolution. No more melancholy +countenances, no closed shops and vacant streets were now to be seen; all was +bustle and rejoicing, bells ringing, carriages rattling along, flags flying, +and guns firing. The solemnity of Good-Friday ends, it appeared, at ten +o’clock on Saturday morning, and from that time the merriments of Easter +have their commencement. +</p> + +<p> +The whole of this day I spent in strolling over the different walks and points +of view from whence the town and surrounding country may be seen to most +advantage; and I certainly must pronounce it to be by far the most magnificent +colonial capital which I have visited. The streets are in general wide, clean, +and airy; the houses, except in the suburbs, are composed entirely of stone, +and being occasionally intermingled with convents, churches, and other public +buildings, produce a very striking and handsome effect. Though surrounded by a +rampart, Havannah has little of the confined and straitened appearance by which +fortified towns are generally disfigured. The works being of great extent, have +left within their circumference abundant room for the display of elegance and +neatness in its construction, an advantage which has not been neglected; whilst +from their situation they command as glorious a prospect as can well be +imagined. +</p> + +<p> +When you ascend a bastion which overhangs the harbour, the city, with all its +towers and spires, lies immediately and distinctly beneath your gaze. Beyond +it, again, you perceive a winding of the bay, which washes three sides of the +promontory where the city stands; numerous fields of sugar-cane and Indian corn +succeed, intersected by groves of orange and other fruit trees, which extend +for some miles in a sort of inclined plane, and are at length bounded by lofty +and rugged mountains. On your left, again, is the creek or entrance to the bay, +separating you from the Moro, a line of castles remarkable for their strength +and extent. Behind sweep the waters of the Gulf of Mexico; and on the right is +another view much resembling that which lies before you, only that it is more +narrowed; the high ground bearing in this direction closer upon the city. On +the whole I do not remember to have been more forcibly struck by any scenery +than that which I beheld from this bastion; so well were town and country, +castles and convents, land and water, hill and valley combined. +</p> + +<p> +Having spent some hours in wandering through the city, I endeavoured to make my +way into the forts, and to examine the state of the works. But in both of these +attempts I was interrupted. Without an order from the Governor, I was informed, +that none, even of the natives, are permitted to enter the Moro, and all +applications on the part of foreigners are uniformly refused. There was a +degree of jealousy in this, as needless as it was illiberal; but indeed the +whole conduct of the Spanish authorities gave proof of their reluctance to +admit their old allies, even to the common rites of hospitality. From the +moment we entered the harbour the militia of the island were called out, many +of the guns which commanded our shipping were shotted, and artillerymen with +lighted fuzes stood constantly beside them. An order was likewise issued, +prohibiting more than two persons to land at the same time from each vessel, +and many other precautions were taken, little complimentary to the good faith +of those to whom Spain must feel that she owes her very existence. In spite of +these drawbacks, however, I contrived to spend a week in this city with much +satisfaction. The opera and theatre opening on Easter Sunday, and continuing +open during the remainder of our stay, furnished sufficient amusement for the +evenings, whilst in walking or riding about, in examining the different +churches and chapels, and in chatting with nuns through the grate, or monks +within their cells, my mornings passed away more quickly than I desired. +</p> + +<p> +At length our victualling and watering being complete, on the 9th of April we +bade adieu to the shores of Cuba, and running along with the Gulf-stream, took +our course towards Bermuda. The wind favoured us greatly, and on the 17th we +again reached these islands; where we delayed till the 23rd, when, once more +setting sail, we steered directly for England. During the remainder of the +voyage nothing of importance occurred till the 7th of May, when, reaching in +towards the shores of Brest, we were astonished by beholding the tri-coloured +flag floating from the citadel. Of the mighty events which had taken place in +Europe, we were as yet in perfect ignorance. Though surprised, therefore, at +the first view of that beacon of war, we naturally concluded it to be no more +than a signal, and passed on without inquiry. As we ascended the channel, +however, we were hailed by a schooner, which professed to communicate some news +concerning Buonaparte; but the wind being high, we could not distinctly tell +what was said; nor was it till the 9th, when we had anchored off Spithead, that +the reappearance of that wonderful man was made known. +</p> + +<p> +The effect of this intelligence it would be difficult to describe. At first it +was received with acclamations, but by and bye those who had dreamed of home +began to perceive in it the destruction of their visions. Yet we considered +that we were soldiers, and certainly no regret was experienced when we were +ordered to re-embark, and sail for the Downs. +</p> + +<h3>REMARKS.</h3> + +<p> +Having thus brought my narrative to a conclusion, I cannot lay aside my pen +without offering a few remarks upon the events of this busy year, and the +nature of an American war in general. In doing so, I shall begin with the +unfortunate attack upon New Orleans, and endeavour, in as few words as +possible, to assign the true causes of its failure. +</p> + +<p> +From the account which I have given of this affair, it will appear that, from +its very commencement, it was replete with error, and gave promise of no better +result than actually occurred. I do not here allude to the spot fixed upon for +landing, because that was as appropriate as could be chosen. Neither do I refer +to the groundless rumours brought in by deserters; for to such all assailants +are liable; but the error lay in the steps subsequently taken; in the unhappy +advance of the first division from a place of concealment into the open +country, without pushing forward to the extent required. The fact is, that +having reached the main land in safety, one out of two plans might have been +selected by General Keane; which, in all probability, would have been equally +attended with success. Either he might have remained in the morass till the +whole army was assembled, or, if this were deemed too dangerous, he ought to +have advanced upon the city with the first division alone. If it be objected +that a force of 1600 men was incompetent for an undertaking so important as the +latter, I reply that there could be no more hazard in it than in the course +actually pursued. New Orleans is not a regular fortification requiring a large +army and a powerful battering train for its reduction. In obtaining possession +of such a place there would have been no difficulty, because it has since been +ascertained that the American troops were, at the time of our landing, some +miles above the city; and surely it would not have been more difficult to +repulse an attack within a town than in the open country. But neither of these +courses was adopted. The advance was drawn from concealment, and halted just +where it became most exposed, as if it had been our design to warn the American +General of his danger; the consequence of which was a well-directed attack upon +our bivouac, and an immediate commencement of those works which afterwards +resisted and repelled all our efforts. +</p> + +<p> +The second error evident in this business was the selection of the schooner +instead of the ship for destruction. Had the latter, which lay farther up the +stream been destroyed, the former never could have passed our battery, nor been +of further annoyance to us; whereas, the schooner being burnt, the ship was +only removed out of the reach of danger, and posted where she could be +infinitely more advantageous to her friends and detrimental to her enemies. +This in itself was a grave error, which beyond all doubt contributed, in some +degree, to our repulse on the 29th of December. +</p> + +<p> +The third error, and one which continued to exert its influence throughout the +whole campaign, was the delay in bringing on a general action. Why our troops +fell back on the 29th I confess is to me a mystery. It was not to be supposed +that an officer who had shown so much judgment as the American General, +Jackson, in his first endeavours to check our advance, would lose the advantage +which the nature of his position afforded. That he would fortify the neck of +land, indeed, was exactly what might have been expected: and, therefore, every +hour during which an attack was deferred, contributed so much to his strength +and to our weakness. It is true that we should have suffered, and perhaps +suffered severely; but our chances of suffering were certainly not diminished +by delay. We ought, therefore, instead of falling back, to have pursued our +operations with vigour on that day; because the American lines, being then +incomplete, would have assisted rather than retarded our progress. +</p> + +<p> +It has been said, and perhaps truly, that the movement on the 29th was never +intended for more than a reconnoissance: and that the scheme subsequently +adopted, of overpowering the enemy’s fire by a superior artillery brought +from the fleet, was a wise one. All this may be true; but as we did not succeed +in silencing the enemy’s batteries, who, on the contrary, put ours to +silence, either the project was faulty in its design, or some grievous error +was committed in its execution. As far as our position was affected by it, the +results were these:—Three days more were lost in making preparations, +which ended in nothing; while, by the enemy, these same days were judiciously +and indefatigably employed to improve their deficiency and recruit their force. +</p> + +<p> +At last came the idea of digging a canal from the lakes to the river, by means +of which a portion of our army might be thrown to the other side; a project +which is said to have been suggested by Sir Alexander Cochrane; but which, +wheresoever originating, was at once bold and judicious. The canal was +accordingly formed; not, however, with sufficient attention to the rules of art +in like cases, as was shown by the falling in of the banks, and the consequent +impossibility of bringing up boats to transport the whole detachment. Still +there it was, and 350 men, instead of 1400, made good their landing on the +right bank of the river. It is deeply to be regretted that Sir Edward Pakenham +did not delay his own advance with the main body till this fact had been +ascertained. His plan of battle was to carry the enemy’s works on the +right bank, to turn their own guns from that flank against themselves, and to +alarm them for their communications, ere he should attack the main position on +the left. Nor can it be doubted, that had the detached corps arrived at the +hour first named, an easy triumph would have been achieved. But Pakenham was +too fiery to restrain his troops, after they had assumed their ground on his +own side. Instead, therefore, of causing the columns to fall back out of +gun-shot, and wait quietly till the battle began on the left, he hurried them +into action as soon as the day dawned; and they became exposed to the whole of +that volume of fire which it was one main object of his movement across the +Mississippi to destroy. Moreover, from all the moral effects of a partial +defeat the enemy were saved; and I need not say how serious such things are to +irregular and undisciplined bodies. I do not mean to assert that, in spite of +all this, the American lines ought not to have been carried. On the contrary, +had every officer and man done his duty, the victory would have been complete, +though purchased, beyond a doubt, at a severe cost. Yet it is absurd to deny +that, speaking of the movement as an operation of war, the attack on the right +ought to have been withheld till that on the left had either failed or +succeeded. So far, therefore, the General is liable to censure; and chivalrous +and high-minded as he was, it is just that he should receive it. But there were +other causes of defeat than this; among which, the gross misconduct of one +individual deserves to be especially noticed. +</p> + +<p> +To Lieutenant-Colonel Mullens, with the 44th regiment, of which he was in +command, was intrusted the arduous and therefore honourable duty of carrying +the fascines and ladders. The orders were given in good time over night; and +Colonel Mullens received them as if they had conveyed a sentence of death. He +stated, in the hearing of the private soldiers, that his corps was devoted to +destruction; and conducted himself, in every respect, like a condemned criminal +on the night previous to his execution. When the troops got under arms, instead +of bringing his battalion to the redoubt, where he had been instructed to find +the ladders, he marched directly past it, and led them into the field without a +single ladder or fascine. When the day dawned, and he was sent back for these +instruments, he headed his corps in its retrograde movement, but left it to +return as it could to the front; and when sought for to guide the attack, he +was nowhere to be found. That a regiment thus abused and deserted by its +commanding officer should fall into confusion, cannot occasion any surprise; it +would have been surprising indeed, had a different result ensued. But the +melancholy effect of such confusion was, that other regiments were likewise +broken; and before order could be restored, all the Generals were borne dead or +wounded from the field. A large share, therefore, of the blame attachable to +this failure must rest where fidelity of narration has obliged me to place it. +</p> + +<p> +Again, the recall of the victorious detachment from the left to the right bank +of the Mississippi, and the consequent abandonment of that complete command of +the river which this partial success had obtained, was a military error of the +gravest kind. Great as our numerical loss had been in the principal action of +the 8th, the advantages of position were at the close of the day so decidedly +with us, that for General Jackson to maintain himself any longer in front of +New Orleans was physically impossible. His own dispatch, indeed, addressed to +the Secretary-at-War, shows that he felt the truth so forcibly, that he had +actually issued orders for a retreat, when the removal of the English from his +menaced flank was reported to him; and his battalions, which had begun to get +under arms, were directed to resume their places. It is, however, but just to +state, that such was the miserable condition of our commissariat, that the +fleet contained not provisions enough to feed the people on half rations during +a quick passage to Cuba; and General Lambert did not feel that he would be +justified in risking the total loss of his army, which, had the campaign been +prolonged another fortnight, must under such circumstances have taken place. +That he erred in this supposition is certain; but his was probably an error +into which most men similarly circumstanced would have fallen. +</p> + +<p> +But the primary cause of all our disasters may be traced to a source even more +distant than any yet mentioned; I mean, to the disclosure of our designs to the +enemy. How this occurred I shall not take it upon me to declare, though several +rumours bearing at least the guise of probability have been circulated. The +attack upon New Orleans was professedly a secret expedition; so secret, indeed, +that it was not communicated to the inferior officers and soldiers in the +armament till immediately previous to our quitting Jamaica. To the Americans, +however, it appears to have been known long before; and hence it was that, +instead of taking them unawares, we found them fully prepared for our +reception. Nor is this all. It appears difficult to account for the degree of +negligence which affected the naval heads of the present expedition, as far as +the providing a competent number of boats and small craft to transport the +troops is concerned. Throughout the whole fleet, barges enough to carry +one-half of the army could not be found; whereas there ought to have been a +sufficient quantity to contain not only the entire force, but all its stores +and ammunition. To this neglect, indeed, more perhaps than to any other +circumstances, is the failure of the attempt to be attributed; since not a +doubt can exist that, if General Keane had been enabled to bring the whole of +his army to land on the morning of the 23rd, he would have reached New Orleans, +without firing a shot, before nightfall. But the opportunity is past, it cannot +be recalled, and therefore to point out errors on the part of my countrymen can +serve no good end. That the failure is to be lamented no one will deny, since +the conquest of New Orleans would have proved beyond all comparison the most +valuable acquisition that could be made to the British dominions throughout the +whole western hemisphere. In possession of that post we should have kept the +entire southern trade of the United States in check, and furnished means of +commerce to our own merchants of incalculable value. +</p> + +<p> +The fact, however, is, that when we look back upon the whole series of events +produced by the late American war, we shall find little that is likely to +flatter our vanity or increase our self-importance. Except a few successes in +Canada at its very commencement, and the brilliant inroad upon Washington, it +will be found that our arms have been constantly baffled or repulsed on shore; +whilst at sea, with the exception of the capture of the Chesapeake and one or +two other affairs towards its conclusion, we have been equally unsuccessful. +From what cause does this proceed? Not from any inferiority in courage or +discipline, because in these particulars British soldiers and sailors will +yield to none in the world. There must, then, be some other cause for these +misfortunes, and the cause is surely one which has continually baffled all our +plans of American warfare. +</p> + +<p> +We have long been habituated to despise the Americans as an enemy unworthy of +serious regard. To this alone it is to be attributed that frigates half manned +were sent out to cope with ships capable of containing them within their hulls; +and to this also the trifling handfuls of troops dispatched to conduct the war +by land. Instead of fifteen hundred, had ten thousand men sailed from the +Garonne under General Ross, how differently might he have acted! There would +have been then no necessity for a reembarkation after the capture of +Washington, and consequently no time given for the defence of Baltimore; but, +marching across the country, he might have done to the one city what he did to +the other. And it is thus only that a war with America can be successfully +carried on. To penetrate up the country amidst pathless forests and boundless +deserts, and to aim at permanent conquest, is out of the question. America must +be assaulted only on her coasts. Her harbours destroyed, her shipping burned, +and her seaport towns laid waste, are the only evils which she has reason to +dread; and were a sufficient force embarked with these orders, no American war +would be of long continuance. +</p> + +<p> +A melancholy experience has now taught us that such a war must not be entered +into, unless it be conducted with spirit; and there is no conducting it with +spirit, except with a sufficient numerical force. To the plan proposed of +making desert the whole line of coast, it may be objected, that by so doing we +should distress individuals, and not the Government. But they who offer this +objection, forget the nature both of the people whose cause they plead, and of +the Government under which they live. In a democratical Government, the voice +of the people must at all times prevail. The members of the House of +Representatives are the very persons who, from such proceedings, would suffer +most severely, and we all know how far private suffering goes to influence a +man’s public opinions. Besides, the principle upon which the advocates +for the sacredness of private property proceed, is erroneous. Every one will +allow that, in absolute monarchies, where war is more properly the pastime of +kings than the desire of subjects, non-combatants ought to be dealt with as +humanely as possible. Not so, how ever, in States governed by popular +assemblies. By compelling the constituents to experience the real hardships and +miseries of warfare, you will compel the representatives to a vote of peace; +and surely that line of conduct is, upon the whole, most humane, which puts the +speediest period to the cruelties of war. There are few men who would not +rather endure a raging fever for three days, than a slow and lingering disease +for three months. So it is with a democracy at war. Burn their houses, plunder +their property, block up their harbours, and destroy their shipping in a few +places; and before you have time to proceed to the rest, you will be stopped by +entreaties for peace. Whereas, if you do no mischief that can be avoided, if +you only fight their fleets and armies wherever you meet them, and suffer the +inhabitants to live in undisturbed tranquillity, they will continue their +hostilities till they have worn out the means of one party, and greatly +weakened those of both. +</p> + +<p> +Should another war break out between Great Britain and America, this is the +course to be adopted by the former. Besides which, I humbly conceive that a +second attempt might be hazarded upon New Orleans, because the importance of +the conquest would authorise almost any sacrifice for its attainment; and once +gained, it could easily be defended. The neck of land, upon which it is built, +extends in the same form above as below the town; and the same advantages which +it holds out to its present defenders would, of course, be afforded to us. A +chain of works thrown across from the river to the marsh would render it +inaccessible from above; whilst by covering the lakes and the Mississippi with +cruisers, all attacks from below would be sufficiently guarded against. +</p> + +<h5>THE END.</h5> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Campaigns of the British Army at Washington and New Orleans, 1814-1815, by G. R. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Campaigns of the British Army at Washington and New Orleans 1814-1815 + +Author: G. R. Gleig + +Release Date: June 1, 2006 [EBook #18479] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRITISH ARMY AT WASHINGTON *** + + + + +Produced by Geoffrey Cowling + + + + +The Campaigns of the British Army at Washington and New Orleans +1814-1815 + +by + +Rev. G. R. Gleig, M.A., + +Chaplain-General to the forces; + +Author of 'The Subaltern'; 'Story of the Battle of Waterloo'; +'Life of Lord Clive'; 'Life of Sir Thomas Munro', etc. + + + +New Edition 1879 + + + + + +ADVERTISEMENT. + +The following Narrative contains, it is believed, the only connected +and authentic account, which has yet been given, of the expedition +directed against Washington and New Orleans, towards the close of the +late American war. It has been compiled, not from memory alone, but +from a journal kept by the author whilst engaged in the enterprise; +and as the adventures of each were faithfully noted down as they +occurred, and such remarks made upon passing events as suggested +themselves to his mind at the moment, the public may rely with +confidence upon general correctness of the details. The issues of the +expedition were not, indeed, of the most gratifying nature, but it is +hoped that a plain relation of the proceedings of those to whom it was +intrusted, will not, on that account, prove uninteresting; whilst +nothing can be more evident than that the portion of our history which +it embraces ought not to be overlooked because it is little conducive +to the encouragement of national vanity. It was chiefly, indeed, upon +this account, as well as with a view to redeem from an oblivion which +they hardly merit, the actions and sufferings of a few brave men, that +the Narrative now submitted to the public was written. + + + +CHAPTER I. +Cessation of Hostilities--Expected Embarkation for America--Encampment +near Passages--March towards Bordeaux-Anglet. . . + +CHAPTER II. +Bayonne--St. Etienne--March through Bayonne, to Ondres + +CHAPTER III. +Les Landes--March to Bordeaux--Bordeaux--Macan--La Moe--At Sea + +CHAPTER IV. + +At Sea--St. Michael's--Villa Franca . . . + +CHAPTER V. + +St Michael's--Ponto del Gada--At Sea . + +CHAPTER VI. + +Bermuda . . . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER VII. +America--The Chesapeake--The Partuxent--St. Benedicts . . . + +CHAPTER VIII. +Nottingham--Marlborough . . . . + +CHAPTER IX. +March to Washington--Bladensburg . . + +CHAPTER X. +Washington . . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XI. +Washington--Bladensburg--Marlborough-St Benedicts +. . . . . . + +CHAPTER XII. +Alexandria--The Patuxent--The Patapsco . . . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XIII. +March--Attack--Halt . . . . . + +CHAPTER XIV. +March--Halt--Search--March--Rally--Halt . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XV. The Patuxent--The Potomac--The Chesapeake--At Sea--The +West Indies . . . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XVI. +The West Indies--Port Royal--Kingston--Jamaica--The Blue Mountains + +CHAPTER XVII. +The Blue Mountains--Port Royal--Negril Bay . . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XVIII. +At Sea--New Orleans--Lake Borgne--Pine Island . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XIX. +Pine Island--The Lake--Landing--March--Halt . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XX. +Halt--Attack--Field of Battle-Hospital . . . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XXI. Advance--Attack--March--Attack--Retreat--Preparations +. . . . . + +CHAPTER XXII. +Attack--Retreat--Pause--Attack--Re-embarkation . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XXIII +The Camp--Preparations for Retreat--Retreat--Halt . . . . . . . + + CHAPTER XXIV. +The Lake--Mobile--Siege--Peace--Havannah . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XXV. +Havannah--Remarks . . . . . + + + +THE BRITISH ARMY + +AT + +WASHINGTON AND NEW ORLEANS. + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +A REVOLUTION must occur in the condition and sentiments of +mankind more decided than we have any reason to expect that the +lapse of ages will produce, before the mighty events which +distinguished the spring of 1814 shall be spoken of in other +terms than those of unqualified admiration. It was then that +Europe, which during so many years had groaned beneath the +miseries of war, found herself at once, and to her remotest +recesses, blessed with the prospect of a sure and permanent +peace. Princes, who had dwelt in exile till the very hope of +restoration to power began to depart from them, beheld themselves +unexpectedly replaced on the thrones of their ancestors; +dynasties, which the will of one man had erected, disappeared +with the same abruptness with which they had arisen; and the +influence of changes which a quarter of a century of rapine and +conquest had produced in the arrangements of general society, +ceased, as if by magic, to be felt, or at least to be acknowledged. +It seemed, indeed, as if all which had been passing during the +last twenty or thirty years, had passed not in reality, +but in a dream; so perfectly unlooked for were the issues of +a struggle, to which, whatever light we may regard it, +the history of the whole world presents no parallel. + +At the period above alluded to, it was the writer's fortune to +form one of a body of persons in whom the unexpected cessation of +hostilities may be supposed to have excited sensations more +powerful and more mixed than those to which the common +occurrences of life are accustomed to give birth. He was then +attached to that portion of the Peninsular army to which the +siege of Bayonne had been intrusted; and on the 28th of April +beheld, in common with his comrades, the tri-coloured flag, +which, for upwards of two months, had waved defiance from the +battlements, give place to the ancient drapeau blanc of the +Bourbons. That such a spectacle could be regarded by any +British soldier without stirring up in him strong feelings of +national pride and exultation, is not to be imagined. I believe, +indeed, that there was not a man in our ranks, however humble his +station, to whose bosom these feelings were a stranger. But the +excitation of the moment having passed away, other and no less +powerful feelings succeeded; and they were painful, or the +reverse, according as they ran in one or other of the channels +into which the situations and prospects of individuals not +unnaturally guided them. By such as had been long absent from +their homes, the idea of enjoying once more the society of +friends and relatives, was hailed with a degree of delight too +engrossing to afford room for the occurrence of any other +anticipations; to those who had either no homes to look to, or +had quitted them only a short time ago, the thoughts of +revisiting England came mixed with other thoughts, little +gratifying, because at variance with all their dreams of +advancement and renown. For my own part I candidly confess, that +though I had just cause to look forward to a return to the bosom +of my family with as much satisfaction as most men, the +restoration of peace excited in me sensations of a very equivocal +nature. At the age of eighteen, and still enthusiastically +attached to my profession, neither the prospect of a reduction to +half-pay, nor the expectation of a long continuance in a +subaltern situation, were to me productive of any pleasurable +emotions; and hence, though I entered heartily into all the +arrangements by which those about me strove to evince their +gratification at the glorious termination of the war, it must be +acknowledged that I did so, without experiencing much of the +satisfaction with the semblance of which my outward behaviour +might be marked. + +EXPECTED EMBARKATION FOR AMERICA. + +Such being my own feelings, and the feelings of the great +majority of those immediately around me, it was but natural that +we should turn our views to the only remaining quarter of the +globe in which the flame of war still continued to burn. Though +at peace with France, England, we remembered; was not yet at +peace with the United States; and reasoning, not as statesmen but +as soldiers, we concluded that she was not now likely to make +peace with that nation till she should be able to do so upon her +own terms. Having such an army on foot, what line of policy +could appear so natural or so judicious as that she should +employ, if not the whole, at all events a large proportion of it, +in chastising an enemy, than whom none had ever proved more +vindictive or more ungenerous? Our view of the matter accordingly +was, that some fifteen or twenty thousand men would be forthwith +embarked on board of ship and transported to the other side of +the Atlantic; that the war would there be carried on with a +vigour conformable to the dignity and resources of the country +which waged it; and that no mention of peace would be made till +our general should be in a situation to dictate its conditions in +the enemy's capital. + +Whether any design of the kind was ever seriously entertained, or +whether men merely asserted as a truth what they earnestly +desired to be such, I know not; but the white flag had hardly +been hoisted on the citadel of Bayonne, when a rumour became +prevalent that an extensive encampment of troops, destined for +the American war, was actually forming in the vicinity of +Bordeaux. A variety of causes led me to anticipate that the +corps to which I was attached would certainly be employed upon +that service. In the progress of the war which had been just +brought to a conclusion, we had not suffered so severely as many +other corps; and though not excelling in numbers, it is but +justice to affirm that a more effective or better organized +battalion could not be found in the whole army. We were all, +moreover, from our commanding officer down to the youngest +ensign, anxious to gather a few more laurels, even in America; +and we had good reason to believe that those in power were not +indisposed to gratify our inclinations. Under these +circumstances we clung with fondness to the hope that our martial +career had not yet come to a close; and employed the space which +intervened between the eventful 28th of April and the 8th of the +following month, chiefly in forming guesses as to the point of +attack towards which it was likely that we should be turned. + +ENCAMPMENT NEAR PASSAGES. + +Though there was peace between the French and British nations, +the form of hostilities was so far kept up between the garrison +of Bayonne and the army encamped around it, that it was only by +an especial treaty that the former were allowed to send out +parties for the purpose of collecting forage and provisions from +the adjacent country. The foraging parties, however, being +permitted to proceed in any direction most convenient to +themselves, the supplies of corn and grass, which had heretofore +proved barely sufficient for our own horses and cattle, soon +began to fail, and it was found necessary to move more than one +brigade to a distance from the city. Among others, the brigade of +which my regiment formed a part, received orders on the 7th of +May to fall back on the road towards Passages. These orders we +obeyed on the following morning; and after an agreeable march of +fifteen or sixteen miles, pitched our tents in a thick wood, +about half-way between the village of Bedart and the town of +St. Jean de Luz. In this position we remained for nearly a week, +our expectations of employment on the other side of the Atlantic +becoming daily less and less sanguine, till at length all doubts +on the subject were put an end to by the sudden arrival of a +dispatch, which commanded us to set out with as little delay as +possible towards Bordeaux. + +It was on the evening of the 14th that the route was received, +and on the following morning, at daybreak, we commenced our +march. The country through which we moved had nothing in it, +unconnected with past events, calculated in any extraordinary +degree to attract attention. Behind us, indeed, rose the +Pyrenees in all their grandeur, forming, on that side, a noble +boundary to the prospect; and on our left was the sea, a boundary +different it is true in kind, though certainly not less +magnificent. But, excepting at these two extremities, there was +nothing in the landscape on which the eye loved particularly to +rest, because the country, though pretty enough, has none of +that exquisite richness and luxuriance which we had been led to +expect as characteristic of the South of France. The houses, +too, being all in a ruinous and dilapidated condition, reminded +us more forcibly of the scenes of violence and outrage which +had been lately acted among them, than of those ideas of rural +contentment and innocence which various tales and melodramas had +taught us to associate in our own minds with thoughts of the +land of the vine. + +MARCH TOWARDS BORDEAUX + +Regarded, however, in connexion with past events, the scene was +indeed most interesting; though to a stranger fresh from +England--a man, we will suppose, of retired and peaceful habits, +I can readily imagine that it would have been productive of much +pain; for on each side of the road, in whatever direction we cast +our eyes, and as far as the powers of vision extended, we beheld +cottages unroofed and in ruins, chateaux stripped of their doors +and windows, gardens laid waste, the walls demolished, and the +fruit-trees cut down; whole plantations levelled, and vineyards +trodden under foot. Here and there, likewise, a redoubt or +breastwork presented itself; whilst caps, broken firelocks, +pieces of clothing, and accoutrements scattered about in +profusion, marked the spots where the strife had been most +determined, and where many a fine fellow had met his fate. Our +journey lay over a field of battle, through the entire extent of +which the houses were not only thoroughly gutted (to use a +vulgar but most expressive phrase), but for the most part were +riddled with cannon-shot. Round some of the largest, indeed, +there was not a wall nor a tree which did not present evident +proofs of its having been converted into a temporary place of +defence, whilst the deep ruts in what had once been lawns and +flower-gardens, showed that all their beauty had not protected +them from being destroyed by the rude passage of heavy artillery. + +Immediately beyond the village of Bedart such spectacles were +particularly frequent. It was here, it may be remembered, that +in the preceding month of December there had been fighting for +four successive days; and the number of little hillocks now +within our view; from under most of which legs and arms were +beginning to show themselves, as well as the other objects which +I have attempted to describe, sufficiently attested the obstinacy +with which that fighting had been maintained. + +In the bosom of a man of peace it is very conceivable that all +this would have excited feelings exceedingly painful; in ours, +such feelings were overborne by others of a very different +nature. If we gazed with peculiar interest upon one hovel more +than upon another, it was because some of us had there maintained +ourselves; if we endeavoured to count the number of shot-holes in +any wall, or the breaks in any hedge, it was because we had stood +behind it when "the iron hail" fell thick and fast around us. +Our thoughts, in short, had more of exultation in them than of +sorrow; for though now and then, when the name of a fallen +comrade was mentioned, it was accompanied with a "poor fellow" +the conversation soon returned again to the exploits and +hair-breadth escapes of the survivors. On the whole, therefore, +our march was one of deep interest and high excitement, feelings +which did not entirely evaporate when we halted, about two hours +after noon, at the village of Anglet. + +MARCH TOWARDS BORDEAUX--ANGLET + +We found this village in the condition in which it was to be +expected that a place of so much importance during the progress +of the late siege would be found, in other words, completely +metamorphosed into a chain of petty posts. Being distant from +the outworks of Bayonne not more than a mile and a half, and +standing upon the great road by which all the supplies for the +left of the British army were brought up, no means, as may be +supposed, had been neglected, which art or nature could supply, +towards rendering it as secure against a sudden excursion of the +garrison as might be. About one hundred yards in front of it +felled trees were laid across the road, with their branches +turned towards the town, forming what soldiers, in the language +of their profession, term an abattis. Forty or fifty yards in +rear of this a ditch was dug, and a breastwork thrown up, from +behind which a party might do great execution upon any body of +men struggling to force their way over that impediment. On each +side of the highway again, where the ground rises into little +eminences, redoubts and batteries were erected, so as to command +the whole with a heavy flanking fire; while every house and hovel +lying at all within the line of expected operations was +loop-holed, and otherwise put in a posture of defence. But upon +the fortification of the church a more than ordinary degree of +care seemed to have been bestowed. As it stood upon a little +eminence in the middle of the hamlet, it was no hard matter to +convert it into a tolerably regular fortress, which might serve +the double purpose of a magazine for warlike stores and a post of +defence against the enemy. With this view the churchyard was +surrounded by a row of stout palings, called in military +phraseology stockades, from certain openings in which the muzzles +of half a dozen pieces of light artillery protruded. The walls +of the edifice itself were, moreover, strengthened by an +embankment of earth to the height of perhaps four or five feet +from the ground, above which narrow openings were made, in order +to give to its garrison an opportunity of levelling their +muskets; while on the top of the tower a small howitzer was +mounted, from which either shot or shell could be thrown with +effect into any of the lanes or passes near. It is probably +needless to add that the interior arrangements of this house of +God had undergone a change as striking as that which affected its +exterior. Barrels of gunpowder, with piles of balls of all sizes +and dimensions, now occupied the spaces where worshippers had +often crowded; and the very altar was heaped up with spunges, +wadding, and other implements necessary in case of an attack. + +I have been thus minute in my description of Anglet, because what +has been said of it will apply more or less exactly to every +village, hamlet, or cluster of cottages, within the compass of +what were called the lines. It is true that neither here nor +elsewhere, excepting at one particular point, and that on the +opposite side of the river, were any serious intentions +entertained of broaching or storming the place; and that the sole +object of these preparations was to keep the enemy within his +works, and to cut him off from all communication with the +surrounding country. But to effect even this end, the utmost +vigilance and precaution were necessary, not only because the +number of troops employed on the service was hardly adequate to +discharge it, but because the garrison hemmed in was well known to +be at once numerous and enterprising. The reader may +accordingly judge what appearance a country presented which, to +the extent of fifteen or twenty miles round, was thus treated; +where every house was fortified, every road blocked up, every +eminence mined with fieldworks, and every place swarming with +armed men. Nor was its aspect less striking by night than by +day. Gaze where he might, the eye of the spectator then rested +upon some portion of one huge circle of fires, by the glare of +which the white tents or rudely constructed huts of the besiegers +were from time to time made visible. + + While things continued thus, the condition of the peaceful +inhabitant of this district could hardly fail to be one of +extreme discomfort. Of these the greater number had indeed fled +on the advance of the British army, leaving their houses and +effects a prey to the conquerors; but there were some who, having +probably no place of refuge to retire to, remained in their +homes, and threw themselves upon our mercy for protection. It is +not requisite that I should now inform the reader of the strict +discipline which Lord Wellington preserved in every division of +his army; his first step, on entering France, had been to inform +the people that against them no violence was intended; and the +assurance thus given, was in no instance, at least wantonly, +violated. But, however orderly the conduct of an invading force +may be, their very presence must occasion a thousand +inconveniences to those upon whom they are quartered; not the +least distressing of which is, perhaps, the feeling of +degradation which the consciousness of being in the power of +armed foreigners can hardly fail to produce. Then there is the +total destruction of all domestic comfort, which the occupation +of a man's house by large bodies of soldiers produces; the +liability to which the females, in particular, are exposed to +insult from the common troopers; and the dread of vengeance from +any delinquent on whom their complaints may have brought down +chastisement, all these things must and do create a degree of +misery, of which the inhabitants of Great Britain may thank God +that they know nothing except by name. In the vicinity of +Bayonne, moreover, the country people lived in daily and nightly +expectation of finding themselves involved in all the horrors and +dangers of a battle. Sorties were continually looked for, and +however these might terminate, the non-combatants felt that they +must be equally the sufferers. Nay, it was no uncommon ground of +complaint among them, that even the total defeat of our forces +would bring with it no relief, because, by remaining to receive +us, they had disobeyed the proclamations of Marshal Soult, and +were consequently liable to punishment as traitors. + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +A soon as the bustle of encamping was over, and my time +absolutely at my own disposal, I took advantage of an offered +passport, and proceeded into Bayonne. It will be readily believed +that I entered this city with feelings very different from those +of a common traveller. Having lain before it as a besieger for +upwards of two months, its shops, its trade, its public buildings +and places of amusement were to me objects of, comparatively +speaking, little interest or curiosity. Its fortifications and +means of defence were, in truth, what I was principally anxious +to examine. Hitherto I could judge of them only from outward +appearances and vague reports; and now that an opportunity offered +of so doing with greater accuracy, I confess that my inclination +prompted me to embrace that opportunity, rather than to hunt for +pictures which I could not value, or fatigue my imagination by +endeavouring to discover fine specimens of architecture amidst +heavy and ill-built churches. + +It is not my intention to attempt any scientific or technical +review of the works which a very natural curiosity tempted me to +examine; partly because I confess myself little competent to the +task and partly because, were the contrary the case, I am +inclined to believe that such a review would not prove very +interesting to the public in general. Enough is done if I +endeavour to impress my reader with as many of the feelings which +I then experienced, as may be done by detailing them; and, at +the same time, enable him to form some general idea of a place +before whose walls no trifling quantity of British blood has been +spilt. + +The city of Bayonne stands, as everybody knows, upon the Adour, +about six or eight miles from the point where that river falls +into the sea. On the southern or Spanish bank, where the whole +of the city, properly so called, is built, the country, to the +distance of two or three miles from the walls, is perfectly flat +and the soil sandy, and apparently not very productive. On the +bank the ground rises rather abruptly from the brink of the +stream, sloping upwards likewise from the sea, till you arrive at +the pinnacle upon which the citadel is erected, and which hangs +immediately over the town. Thus, though the Adour in fact +separates the city from the suburbs and citadel, yet as the +ramparts of the former extend to the water's edge on both sides, +and as those of the latter continue the sweep from points +immediately opposite, the general appearance presented is that of +one considerable town, with a broad river flowing through the +middle of it. + +It will be seen, even from this short and imperfect sketch, that +its situation gives to Bayonne, considered as a military post, a +superiority over most cities; inasmuch as it affords peculiar +facilities towards rendering it a place of great strength. On one +side there is a plain, always accounted by engineers the most +convenient for the construction of fortifications; on the other +an eminence, lofty enough to command the surrounding country, and +at the same time sufficiently level at the summit to receive the +walls of a fortress, powerful at once from its position and +regularity. But the great strength of Bayonne arose at this +juncture not so much from its original defences as from the +numerous outworks which had been lately added to it. It was along +the course of the Adour, as the reader will probably recollect, +or rather between the Adour and the Nieve, that Soult formed his +famous intrenched camp. The right of this chain of stupendous +works rested upon the city, the importance of which was +consequently much increased; and as the capture of it would have +occasioned not only the loss of a town, but the turning of the +whole position, no pains were spared in rendering it as nearly +impregnable as possible. That I may convey some notion to the +minds of others of the nature of these works, I will describe the +aspect which they presented to myself, as I rode from Anglet +towards the city. + +When I had proceeded about a mile and a half beyond our advanced +posts, I found myself in front of the first line of defence. +This consisted of a battery mounting three eighteen-pounders, +upon the road, flanked by other batteries, one on each side; all +so placed as that whichsoever of them should be attacked, it +might be defended by a cross-fire from the rest. These were of +course additionally strengthened by ditches and felled trees; but +they were open in the rear; and though very formidable to an +assailing party, yet, when taken, could have been of small +service to the conquerors, being themselves exposed to the fire +of the second line. The situation of the second line, again, was +similar in every respect to that of the first, being, like it, +open in the rear, and placed under the guns of the town. Thus, +after having forced two powerful lines of defence, the besiegers +would find themselves almost as far as ever from the attainment +of their object, being then only arrived at the point where the +labours of a siege could commence. + +But the maintenance of Bayonne must at all times depend upon +keeping possession of the citadel. The city lying upon a plain, +and the castle standing upon an eminence immediately above it, it +is clear that, were the latter taken, the former must either +surrender or be speedily reduced to ruins. It is true that, by +destroying the bridge which connects them, all communication +between the two places would be cut off; but the distance from +the one to the other being not more than half-musket shot, and +the guns of the fort pointing directly down upon the streets and +of the city, any attempt to hold out could cause only the +destruction of the town, and the unavenged slaughter of its +garrison. Of the truth of this the French were as much aware as +their enemies, nor did they neglect any means which an accurate +knowledge of engineering could point out, for the defence of what +they justly considered as the key of the entire position. In +addition to its own very regular and well-constructed +fortifications, two strong redoubts were thrown up, on two sides +of the fort, upon the only spots of ground calculated for the +purpose; both of which, I was informed by my guide, were +undermined and loaded with gunpowder, ready to be sprung as soon +as they should fill into our hands. They had judged, and judged +correctly, that if ever the place should be invested, it would be +that the trenches would be opened and the breaching batteries +erected; and they made every preparation to meet the danger which +great prudence and military skill could suggest. + +Bayonne, though a populous place, does not cover so much ground +as a stranger would be led to suppose. Like most walled towns, +its streets, with the exception of one or two, are in general +narrow, and the houses lofty: but it is compact, and, on the +whole, clean, and neatly built. The number of inhabitants I +should be inclined to estimate at somewhere about thirty +thousand, exclusive of the garrison, which at this time amounted +to fourteen or fifteen thousand men; but as most of the families +appear to live in the style of those in the old town of +Edinburgh, that is to say, several under the same roof, though +each in a separate story or flat, it is not difficult to conceive +how they contrive to find sufficient room, within a compass +apparently so narrow. Of its commerce and manufactures I can say +little, except that I should not imagine either to be extensive. +I am led to form this opinion, partly from having seen no +shipping at the wharfs, and partly because the Adour, though +here both wide and deep, is rendered unnavigable to vessels of +any size, by a shallow or bar at its mouth. There was, indeed, +a sloop of war close to the town, but how it got there I am at a +loss to conceive, unless it were built upon the river, and kept +as an additional protection against a surprise from the water. +The shops are, however, good, particularly those where jewellery +is sold; an article in the setting and adorning of which the +French, if they do not excel us in really substantial value, +undoubtedly surpass us in elegance. + +When I had taken as complete a survey of the town as I felt +disposed to take, I crossed the bridge with the intention of +inspecting the interior of the citadel. Here, however, I was +disappointed, no strangers being admitted within its gates; but +as there was no objection made to my reconnoitring it from +without, I proceeded towards the point where our trenches had +been dug, and where it had been designed to breach and storm the +place. To this I was urged by two motives, partly from the desire +of obtaining the best view possible of the fort, and partly that +I might examine the ground upon which the desperate affair +of the 14th of April took place. The reader cannot have +forgotten, that some hours before daylight on the morning of +that day, a vigorous and well-arranged sortie was made by the +garrison, and that it was not without hard fighting and a severe +loss on both sides that the attack was finally repulsed. + +Mounting the heights, I soon arrived at St. Etienne, a little +village nearly on a level with the citadel, and not more than a +quarter of a mile from its walls. From this point I could +satisfy my curiosity to the full, and as the account may not, +perhaps, be uninteresting, I shall describe, as well as I am +able, the scene which here met my eyes. + +St. Etienne + +The ridge of little hills upon which the fort and village are +built, though it rises by gentle gradation from the sea, towards +the spot where I now stood, is nevertheless intersected and +broken here and there by deep glens or ravines. Two of these +glens, one to the right, the other to the left, chance to occur +immediately under the ramparts of the fortress, supplying, in +some measure, the purposes of a ditch, and leaving a sort of +table or elevated neck of land between them, the extremity of +which is occupied by the village. On this neck of land the +besieged had constructed one of the redoubts to which I alluded +as having been lately thrown up; whilst on another table, at the +opposite side of the left ravine, which winds round in the +direction of the wall, as nearly as if it were the work of art, +stands the other redoubt. Beyond this, again, there is a +perpendicular precipice, the hills there abruptly ending; so that +on two sides the walls of the fort skirt the extremity of a bare +rock. It was along the outer ridges of these ravines, and +through the churchyard of St. Etienne, that our trenches were +drawn, the village itself being the most advanced British post; +and it was along these ridges, and in the street of this village, +that the action of the 14th of April was fought. + +It is not my business, neither indeed is it my intention, to +relate here the particulars of that affair. The French, having +contrived, in a dark night, to elude the vigilance of our +sentinels, came upon the piquets unperceived, and took them +completely by surprise. The battle was maintained on both sides +with great determination, and had it not been for the unfortunate +capture of Sir John Hope and the fall of General Hay, the +assailants would have had little cause to rejoice at the result: +for though the loss of the English was certainly great, that of +the French was at least not inferior. Yet the business was an +unfortunate one to both parties, since, before it took place, +Buonaparte had already abdicated, and the preliminaries of peace +were already signed between the two nations. + +I found the village, in which the fighting had been most +obstinately maintained, in the condition of most villages where +such dramas have been acted. The street had been barricaded, but +the barricade was almost entirely torn down; the houses, trees, +and church, like those we had passed upon the march, were covered +with the marks of cannon and musket balls, whilst quantities of +round and grape shot, of musket and pistol bullets, broken +bayonets, swords, &c. &c., lay scattered about in every +direction. Nor were these the only evidences of strife +discernible. In many places--on the pavement of the street, in +the churchyard, but above all, on the floor of the church itself, +--the traces of blood were still distinctly visible. Beside the +remains of the barricade there stood a solitary six-pounder, +which had been taken and re-taken nine times during the struggle; +and a sprinkling of what looked like a mixture of blood and +brains still adhering to its carriage and breech, showed that it +had never been given up without the most desperate resistance. +The mounds, too, under which the dead were buried, presented a +peculiarly striking appearance; for the field of action having +been narrow, those that fell, fell in heaps together, and being +buried in the same way, one was led to form an idea of greater +slaughter than if double the number of graves had been +distinguishable in a more extended space. + +Having now accomplished my wishes as far as I could, and +beginning to feel somewhat fatigued with strolling about, I +adjourned to an hotel in the city, from whence, in the evening, +I went to the play. The house was poor and the performance +miserable, consequently there was no great inducement to sit out +the whole of the piece. After witnessing an act or two, +therefore, I returned to the inn, where I slept, and at an early +hour next morning rejoined my regiment, already under arms and +making preparations for the continuance of the march. + +MARCH THROUGH BAYONNE--TO ONDRES + +As it would have been considerably out of our way to go round by +the floating bridge*, permission was applied for and granted, to +pass directly through Bayonne. With bayonets fixed, band +playing, and colours flying, we accordingly marched along the +streets of that city; a large proportion of the garrison being +drawn up to receive us, and the windows crowded with spectators, +male and female, eager to behold the troops from whom not long +ago they had probably expected a visit of a very different +nature. The scene was certainly remarkable enough, and the +transition from animosity to good-will as singular as it was +sudden; nor do I imagine that it would be easy to define the +sensations of either party, on being thus strangely brought n +contact with the other. The females, indeed, waved their +handkerchiefs, whilst we bowed and kissed our hands; but I +thought I could discover something like a suppressed scowl upon +the countenances of the military. Certain it is, that in +whatever light the new state of affairs might be regarded by the +great bulk of the nation, with the army it was by no means +popular; and at this period they appeared to consider the passage +of British troops through their lines as the triumphal +entrance of a victorious enemy. + +_________________________ +* The bridge here alluded to was thrown across the Adour by the + Duke of Wellington at the commencement of the siege. It was + composed of a number of small fishing vessels fastened together + with cords, and planked from one to another, the whole firmly + moored about three miles below Bayonne. Whether the + daringness of the attempt, or the difficulties surmounted in + its completion, be considered, the construction of this bridge + may be looked upon as one of the most extraordinary actions of + that extraordinary man. +--------------------------- + +As soon as we had cleared the entrenchments of Bayonne, and got +beyond the limits of the allied camps, we found ours in a country +more peaceful and more picturesque than any we had yet traversed. +There were here no signs of war or marks of violence. The +cottages were covered with honeysuckle and roses, the gardens +were blooming in the most perfect order; the corn was growing in +great plenty and richness, and the vines were clustering round +their poles like the hops in the gardens of Kent. It is +impossible to describe the feeling of absolute refreshment which +such a sight stirred up in men who, for so long a time, had +looked upon nothing but ruin and devastation. It is true that +with respect to grandeur, or even beauty, the scenery through +which we now travelled was not to be compared with the sublime +passes of the Pyrenees, or with many spots which we had beheld; +but in truth, a hamlet uninjured and tenanted by its own rude +peasantry, a field of Indian corn exhibiting no wasteful track of +foragers, nay, a single cottage with its flowers and evergreens +budding around it, was at this a more welcome object to our eyes +than the wildest mountains or most romantic valleys displaying no +habitations except white tents and no inhabitants except +soldiers. For my own part I felt as if I had once more returned +into the bosom of civilized and domestic life, after having been +for many months a wanderer and a savage. + +The road along which we proceeded had been made by Napoleon, and +was remarkably good. It was sheltered, on each side, from the +rays of the sun, by groves of cork-trees mingled with fir; by +which means, though the day was overpoweringly hot, we did not +suffer so much as we should otherwise have done. Our march was, +therefore, exceedingly agreeable, and we came in, about noon, +very little fatigued, to the village of Ondres, where the tents +were pitched, and we remained till the morrow. + +CHAPTER III. + +LES LANDES + + +THE dawn was just beginning to appear, when the bugles sounded, +and the tents were struck. For the first few leagues, our route +to-day resembled that of yesterday, in almost every particular. +There was the same appearance of peaceful quiet, the same +delightful intermingling of woods, corn-fields, vineyards, and +pasture; but we had not proceeded far, when a marked difference +was perceptible; every step we trod, the soil became more and +more sandy, the cultivation less frequent, and the wood more +abundant, till at last we found ourselves marching through the +heart of an immense forest of pines. We had diverged, it +appeared, from the main road, which carries the traveller through +a rich and open country, and were pursuing another through the +middle of those deserts and savannahs which lie towards the +coast; a district known by the name of les Landes. There was +something, if not beautiful, at least new and striking in the +scenery now around us. Wherever the eye turned, it was met by +one wide waste of gloomy pine-trees; diversified, here and there, +by the unexpected appearance of a modest hamlet, which looked as +if it were the abode of some newly arrived settlers in a country +hitherto devoid of human habitations. + +Were I to continue the detail of a long march through these +barren regions, I should soon fatigue, without amusing my reader: +I shall, therefore, content myself with observing, that day after +day the same dreary prospect presented itself, varied by the +occasional occurrence of huge uncultivated plains, which +apparently chequer the forest, at certain intervals, with spots +of stunted and unprofitable pasturage; upon these there were +usually flocks of sheep grazing, in the mode of watching which, +the peasants fully evinced the truth of the old proverb, that +necessity is the mother of invention. I do not know whether the +practice to which I allude be generally known, but as it struck +me as very remarkable, I shall offer no apology for relating it. + +The whole of this district, as well where it is wooded, as where +it is bare, is perfectly flat, containing scarcely a knoll or +eminence any sort, as far as the eye can reach. In addition to +this, the vast plains where the sheep are fed, many of which +extend two or three leagues in every direction, produce not so +much as a fir-tree, by climbing which, a man might see to any of +its extremities: and the consequence is, that the shepherds are +constantly in danger of losing their sheep, as one loses sight of +a vessel at sea, in the distance. To remedy this evil, they have +fallen upon a plan not more simple than ingenious; they all walk +on stilts, exactly similar to those with which our school-boys +amuse themselves; the only difference lying here, that whereas +the school-boys' stilts are with us seldom raised above ten or +twelve inches from the ground, those of the French peasants are +elevated to the height of six or eight feet. + +When we first caught a glimpse of these figures, it was in the +dusk of the morning, and for awhile we were willing to persuade +ourselves that the haze had deceived us, by seeming to enlarge +bodies beyond their real dimensions. But when we looked at the +trees, we saw them in their own proper size, nor could we suppose +that the atmosphere would have an effect upon one object, which +it had not upon another; yet there appeared to be no other way of +accounting for the phenomenon, unless indeed this wild country +were the parent of a race of giants, for the men whom we saw +resembled moving towers rather than mortals. I need not observe +that our astonishment was very great; nor, in was it much +diminished when, on a nearer approach, we discovered the truth, +and witnessed the agility with which they moved, and the ease +with which, aided by the poles which each carried in his hand, +they would stoop to the ground, pick up the article, and stand +upright again. But if we admired the skill of one or two +individuals, our admiration rose to a still higher pitch when we +saw crowds of them together, all equally skilful; till they +informed us that the thing was not an amusement, but universally +practised for the purpose I have stated. + +Besides this, I know of nothing in the customs of this isolated +people at all worthy of notice, unless, indeed, it be their +method of supplying themselves with lights. Being completely cut +off from the rest of the world, it is not in their power, except +when once or twice a-year they travel to the nearest towns with +their wool, to purchase candles; and as they have no notion how +these can be made, they substitute in their room a lamp, fed with +the turpentine extracted from the fir-trees. The whole process +is simple and primitive: to obtain the turpentine they out a hole +in the tree, and fasten a dish in it to catch the sap as it oozes +through; and as soon as the dish is filled, they put a wick of +cotton into the midst of the liquor, and burn it as we do a lamp. +The light is not indeed of the most brilliant nature, but it is +at least better than none; and as they have fir-trees in +abundance within their reach, there is no danger of their oil +being quickly exhausted. + +MARCH TO BORDEAUX + +In this manner was an entire week expended, each succeeding day +introducing us to a repetition of the same adventures, and a +renewal of the same scenery, which had amused us during the day +before; nor was it till the morning of the twenty-third that we +at last began to emerge from the forests, and to find ourselves +once again in a more open country. At first, however, it cannot +be said that, with respect to beauty, the change was greatly for +the better. Upon the borders of the deserts there is a little +village called Le Barp, where we spent the night of the +twenty-second; from whence, till you arrive at a place called +Belle-Vue, the country is exactly in that state which land +assumes when nature has begun to lose ground, and art to gain +it--when the wild simplicity of the one is destroyed, and the +rich luxuriance of the other has not yet been superinduced. So +far, therefore, we proceeded, regretting, rather than rejoicing, +that we had quitted the woods; but no sooner had we attained that +point, than there burst upon us, all on a sudden, a prospect as +gloriously fertile as ever delighted the eyes of a weary +traveller. + +BORDEAUX + +Instead of boundless forests of pine, the whole face of the +country was now covered with vineyards, interspersed, in the most +exquisite and tasteful manner, with corn-fields and meadows of +the the richest pasturage. Nor was there any deficiency of +timber; a well-wooded chateau, with its lawn and plantations, +here and there presenting itself, while quiet hamlets and +solitary cottages, scattered in great abundance over the scene, +gave to it an appearance of life and prosperity exceedingly +bewitching. Had there been but the addition of a fine river +flowing through the midst of it, and had the ground been somewhat +more broken into hill and dale, I should have pronounced it the +most enchanting prospect of the kind I had ever beheld; but, +unfortunately, both these were wanting. Though the effect of a +first view, therefore, was striking and delightful, and though to +the last we could not help acknowledging the richness of the land +and its high state of cultivation, its beauty soon began to pall. +The fact is, that an immense plain, however adorned by the +labour of man, is not an object upon which it is pleasing to gaze +for any length of time; the eye becomes wearied with the extent +of its own stretch, and as there is no boundary but the horizon, +the imagination is left to picture a continuance of the same +plain, till it becomes as tired of fancying as the eye is of +looking. Besides, we were not long in discovering that the +vineyards were unworthy to be compared, in point of luxuriant +appearance, with those of Spain and the more southern regions of +France. In this neighbourhood the vine is not permitted to grow +to a greater height than or four feet from the ground; whereas in +Spain, and on the borders, it climbs, like the hop-plant in +England, to the top of high poles, and hangs over from one row to +another, in the most graceful festoons. In spite of these +objections, however, no one could do otherwise than admit that +the change we had experienced was agreeable, and we continued to +move on with greater alacrity, till it was evident, from the increasing +number of seats and villas, that we were rapidly approaching the vicinity +of Bordeaux. + +Nor was it long before the towers and buildings of that +magnificent city began to be discernible in the distance. +Prompted by I know not what impulse, we almost involuntarily +quickened our pace at the sight, and in a short time reached the +suburbs, which like those of most French towns, are composed of +low houses, inhabited by the poorest and meanest of the people. +Here we halted for a few minutes to refresh the men, when having +again resumed the line of march, we advanced under a triumphal +arch, originally erected in honour of Napoleon, but now inscribed +with the name of the Duke d'Angouleme, and ornamented with +garlands of flowers. Passing under this, we proceeded along one +or two handsome streets, till we reached the Military Hospital, a +large and commodious structure fitted up for the reception of +several thousands of sick, where it was arranged that we should +spend the night. + +The city of Bordeaux has been too often described, and is too +well known to my countrymen, in general, to render any particular +account of it at all necessary from me; and were the case +otherwise, I confess that my opportunities of examining it were +not sufficient to authorize my entering upon such an attempt. The +whole extent of our sojourn was only during the remainder of that +day (and it was past noon before we got in) and the ensuing +night; a space of time which admitted of no more than a hurried +stroll through some of the principal streets, and a hasty visit +to such public buildings as are considered most worthy of +attention. The palace of the Duke d'Angouleme, the Military +Hospital, the Theatre, and the Cathedral, are all remarkably fine +of their kind; whilst the public gardens, the Exchange, and +fashionable promenades, are inferior only to those of Paris +itself. + +MACAU + +I have said that our sojourn in Bordeaux was limited to the short +space of a few hours. We could have wished indeed to prolong it, +but to wish was needless, for at an early hour next morning we +were again in motion, and proceeded to an extensive common, near +the village of Macau, about three leagues from Bordeaux, where we +found a considerable force already assembled. Judging from the +number of tents upon the heath, I conceive that there could not +be fewer than eight or ten thousand men in that camp, the whole +of whom, we naturally concluded, were destined for the same +service with ourselves. The sight was at once pleasing and +encouraging, because there could be no doubt that such a force, +ably commanded, would carry everything before it. + +In this situation we continued, without the occurrence of any +incident deserving of record, till the 27th, when an order +arrived for the officers to dispose of their horses without +delay. This was necessarily done at an enormous loss; and on the +morning of the 28th, we set forward towards the point of +embarkation. But, alas! in the numbers allotted for the +trans-Atlantic war, we found ourselves grievously disappointed, +since, instead of the whole division, only two regiments, neither +of them surpassingly numerous, were directed to move; it was not +our business, however, to question the wisdom of any measure +adopted by our superiors; and we accordingly marched on in as +high spirits as if we had been followed by the entire Peninsular +army. + +The remainder of our journey occupied two days, nor do I often +remember to have spent a similar space of time with greater +satisfaction; our route lay through some of the most fertile +districts in France, passing Chateau Margaux, famous for its +wine, with other places not inferior to it either in richness of +soil or in beauty of prospect. The weather was delightful, and +the grapes, though not yet ripe, were hanging in heavy bunches +from the vines, giving promise of much wealth to come; the hay +season had commenced, and numerous groups of happy-looking peasants +were busy in every field; in short, it was a march upon which I shall +never look back without pleasure. + + LA MOE.--AT SEA + +The close of the first day's progress brought us to a village +called La Moe, beautifully situated within view of the majestic +waters of the Garonne. Here, for the first time since we quitted +Bayonne, were we quartered upon the inhabitants--a measure which +the loss of our tents rendered necessary. They received us with +so much frankness, and treated us with so much civility, I had +almost said kindness, that it was not without a feeling of +something like regret that we parted from them. The second day +carried us to Pauliac, an inconsiderable town upon the banks of +the same river, where we found boats ready to convey us to the +shipping, which lay at anchor to receive us. + +To embark the troops in these boats, and to huddle them on board +two dirty little transports, occupied some time, and the +provoking part of the business was, that all this trouble was to +be gone through again. The men-of-war in which we were to cross +the Atlantic, could not come up so high for want of water; and on +this account it was that transports were sent as passage-boats to +carry us to them. But the wind was foul, and blew so strong that +the masters would not venture to hoist a sail; so we were obliged +to endure the misery of a crowd in a small vessel for two nights +and a day; nor was it till past noon on the 31st, that the +regiment to which I was attached found itself finally settled in +His Majesty's ship -------- of 64 guns. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +AT SEA + +THE land army, destined for the invasion of the United States, +which took shipping at this period in the Garonne, consisted but +of three battalions of infantry, the 4th, 44th, and 85th +regiments; the two former mustering each about eight hundred +bayonets, the last not more than six hundred. In addition to +these, there were two officers of engineers, a brigade of +artillery, a detachment of sappers and miners, a party of +artillery drivers, with a due proportion of officers belonging to +the Medical and Commissariat departments. The whole together +could not be computed at more than two thousand five hundred men, +if indeed it amounted to so great a number; and was placed under +the command of Major-General Ross, a very gallant and experienced +officer. + +The fleet, again, consisted of the Royal Oak, of 74 guns, bearing +the flag of Rear-Admiral Malcolm; the Diadem and Dictator, two +sixty-fours, armed en flute; the Pomone, Menelaus, Trave, Weser, +and Thames, frigates, the three last armed in the same manner as +the Diadem and Dictator; the Meteor and Devastation, +bomb-vessels; together with one or two gun-brigs, making in all a +squadron of eleven or twelve ships of war, with several +storeships and transports. + +On board the Royal Oak were embarked the General, with his staff, +and the artillery; the Trave and Weser were filled with the 4th; +the 44th were divided between the Dictator and the Thames, in the +first of which ships were also the engineers; the 85th occupied +the Diadem; and the rest were scattered through the fleet, partly +in the men-of-war and partly in the transports. + +As soon as the troops, with all their baggage, were finally +settled in the vessels allotted for their accommodation, the +signal was made to weigh; but the wind being adverse, and the +navigation of the Garonne far from simple, it could not be +obeyed with safety. Every thing, therefore, remained quiet till +the evening of the 2nd of June, when the gale moderating a +little, the anchors were raised and the sails hoisted. The tide +was beginning to ebb when this was done, favoured by which the +ships drifted gradually on their course; but before long, the +breeze shifting, blew directly in their sterns, when they stood +gallantly to sea, clearing the river before dark; and, as there +was no lull during the whole of the night, by daybreak the coast +of France was not to be discerned. All was now one wide waste +of waters, as far as the eye could reach, bounded on every side by +the distant horizon; a scene which, though at first it must +strike with awe and wonder a person unaccustomed to it, soon +becomes insipid, and even wearisome, from its constant sameness. + +ST. MICHAEL'S + +The fair wind which carried us out of the Garonne continuing to +blow without any interruption till the 19th of June, it was that +day calculated, by consulting the log and taking observations, +that the Azores, or Western Islands, could not be very distant. +Nor, as it turned out, were these calculations incorrect; for, on +ascending the deck next morning, the first object that met our +eyes was the high land of St Michael's rising, like a collection +of blue clouds, out of the water. With such a prospect before +us our consternation may be guessed at, when we found ourselves +deserted by the breeze which had hitherto so uniformly favoured +us, and lying as motionless as logs, under the influence of a +dead calm. + +But the complaints to which we had begun to give utterance, were +speedily changed again into rejoicings, for before mid-day the +breeze once more freshened, and we approached every moment nearer +and nearer to the object of our wishes. As soon, too, as we +contrived to double the projecting headland which had attracted +our attention in the morning, our course became productive of +much interest and pleasure. We had neared the shore +considerably, and were moving at a rate sufficiently rapid to +prevent further repining, and at the same time slow enough to +permit a distinct and calm survey of the beach, with the numerous +villages, seats, and convents that adorned it. + +The island of St. Michael is mountainous, even to the very edge +of the water, but the heights, though lofty, do not present a +rugged or barren appearance. Here and there, indeed, bare rocks +push themselves into notice, but in general the ascent is easy, +and the hills are covered to the tops with groves of orange-trees +and beautiful green pasturage. Like other Portuguese +settlements, this island abounds in religious houses, the +founders of many of which do not appear to have been deficient in +taste when they pitched upon situations for building. There was +one of these in particular that struck me: it stood upon a sort +of platform or terrace, about half-way between the sea and the +summit of the mountain; above it were hanging woods, whether +natural or artificial I cannot say, broken in upon here and there +by projecting rocks; and round it were plantations of orange-trees +loaded with fruit, and interspersed with myrtles and other +odoriferous shrubs. Being greatly pleased with the mansion and +the surrounding scenery, I naturally inquired from the pilot (for +one had already come off to us) as to its use, and the quality of +Its owner; and from him I learnt that it was a convent, I forget +of what order,--a piece of intelligence which was soon confirmed +by the sound of bells distinctly audible as we passed. + +VILLA FRANCA. + +In this manner we continued to coast along, being seldom at a +greater distance than four or five miles from the land, till we +came opposite to a small town called Villa Franca. Here, as the +wind threatened to die away, several others and myself agreed to +go onshore: a boat was accordingly lowered, and we pushed off +from the ship; but the operation of landing did not prove to be +altogether so simple as we had expected. An immense reef of +rocks, some under water, others barely above it, but none +distinguishable till we had almost run against them, opposed our +progress; and it was not without considerable difficulty, and +the assistance of the country people, who made signals to us from +the beach, that we contrived to discover a narrow channel leading +up to the strand. + +Having at length so far attained our wishes as to tread once more +upon firm ground, the next thing to be done was to find out some +inn, or house of public entertainment, where we might pass the +night, a measure which the increasing darkness rendered +necessary. In this, however, we were disappointed, the town of +Villa Franca boasting of no such convenience on any scale. But +we were not on that account obliged to bivouac; for the Alcalde, +or mayor of the place, politely insisted upon our accompanying +him home, and entertained us with great hospitality; nor, in +truth, had we any cause to regret the unsuccessful issue of our +inquiries, since, in addition to the good cheer with which we +were presented, our host, being an intelligent person, did not +fail to render himself an agreeable companion; and what +contributed in no slight degree to the facility of our +intercourse was, that though he assured us he had never quitted +St. Michael's in his life, he spoke English with the fluency of a +native. Among other pieces of information we learnt from him +that the reef which impeded our progress towards the land, had +formerly been an island. It appeared, he affirmed, one morning, +in the most sudden and extraordinary manner, as if it had been +thrown up by an earthquake during the night, and having continued +so long above water as to embolden a single family of fishers to +settle upon it, it disappeared again as suddenly as it had come, +leaving no trace of its existence except the rocks which we had +found so troublesome. Whether there be truth in this story, I +cannot pretend to determine; and yet I see no reason to doubt the +word of a man of respectability, who could have no motive +whatever for deceiving us. But this was not all that we learnt +from him respecting the reef. He declared that previous to the +appearance of the island, the water in that very spot was +unfathomable; and it was not till after it had sunk, that a +single rock stood in the way to prevent the largest ship of war +from anchoring within a stone's throw of the beach. + +Finding our new acquaintance so civil and obliging, we naturally +informed him of our intention to proceed next morning to Ponto +del Gada, the principal town in St. Michael's, and requested his +assistance in procuring some mode of conveyance; but we were +startled by the intelligence that nothing of the kind could be +had, and that there were not even horses or mules to be hired at +any place nearer than the very town whither we were going. This +was rather an alarming piece of news, for our boat had left us, +the weather was too hot for walking, and the distance to be +travelled full fifteen miles. Had we been prudent enough to +detain our boat, the matter would have been easily managed, +because we might have sailed round to the point where the fleet +was to anchor; but this was no longer in our power, and being +rather unwilling to pursue our journey on foot, we were +altogether at a loss upon what course to determine. Whilst we +thus hesitated, the Alcalde suggested that if we would condescend +to ride upon asses, he thought he could obtain a sufficient +number for our party; a proposal with which we gladly closed, +prudently determining that any mode of being carried was better +than walking. Leaving the arrangement of this affair, therefore, +to our obliging friend, we retired to rest upon clean comfortable +mattresses spread for us on the floor; and on waking in the +morning, we found that he had not been negligent in the charge +assigned to him. Our party consisted of five officers, with five +servants, for whose accommodation we found ten asses at the door, +each attended by its driver, who wielded a long pole tipped with +an iron spike, for the purpose of goading the animal whenever it +should become lazy. + +It was not without a good deal of laughing that the cavalcade, +after bidding adieu to the hospitable Mayor, began to move +forward. Our asses, of no larger size than ordinary English +donkeys, were uncaparisoned, at least with bridles; and the +saddles were neither more nor less than the pack-saddles upon +which goods are transported to market. For our own comfort, +therefore, we were obliged to sit a la femelle, and having no +command over the heads of our steeds, we were content to be +guided by the hallooing and punching of the drivers. In spite, +however, of these inconveniences, if so they may be called, I +shall never cease to congratulate myself on having been of the +party, because the ride proved to be one of the most agreeable I +remember at any time to have taken. + +The road from Villa Franca to Ponto del Gada quits the water's +edge, and turns, for a little way, inland, carrying you through a +region as romantic and beautiful as can well be imagined. There +are here no level plains, no smooth paths over which a landau or +tilbury might glide, but, on the contrary, a rugged and stony +track, sometimes leading down the face of steep hills, sometimes +scaling heights which at the distance of a mile appear to be +almost perpendicular, and sometimes winding along the side of a +cliff, and by the edge of a fearful precipice. Except when you +reach the summit of a mountain, the road is in general shaded by +the richest underwood, hanging over it from above; but the whole +aspect of the country is decidedly that of a volcanic production: +the rocks seem to have been cast up and torn asunder by some +prodigious violence, and hurled, by a force which nothing but a +volcano could possess, into the most grotesque and irregular +shapes. It is no uncommon thing to pass under a huge crag, +leaning almost horizontally over the road, and bedded in the +earth by a foundation apparently so slight, as to appear liable +to fall every moment, precipitating the enormous mass upon the +luckless wretch beneath. Nay, the very colour of the stones, and +the quantity of what bears every resemblance to vitrification, +scattered about, all tend to induce the, belief that the main +island owes its formation to the same cause which doubtless +produced the smaller one that has now disappeared. + + ST. MICHAEL'S + +It is not, however, to be inferred from the above description +that St. Michael's is nothing but a barren rock; far from it. +There is, indeed, in this direction at least, a fair proportion +of that commodity; but tracts of cultivated ground are not +therefore wanting. I should not certainly suppose that the soil +was remarkably rich in any part of the island; but it produces +the fig, the orange-tree, and a grape from which the inhabitants +make very tolerable wine; and there is excellent pasture for +sheep, and a competent supply of grain. But that in which the +Azores, and St. Michael's among the number, particularly excel, +is the extreme salubrity of the climate. Lying in nearly the +same degree of latitude with Lisbon, the intense heat which +oppresses in that city is here alleviated by refreshing +sea-breezes; by which means, though I believe there is no +occasion at any season to complain of cold, it is only in the +very height of the dog-days, if then, that a person, not actually +engaged in violent exercise, is justified in complaining of +sultriness. + +The trade of St. Michael's, as far as I could learn, is confined +exclusively to fruit: the fig and the orange are the staple +commodities; and being both very abundant, they are, of course, +proportionably cheap. Into the praise of a St. Michael's orange +it is unnecessary for me to enter, because it is generally +allowed to be the best with which the English market is supplied; +but of the excellence of the St. Michael's fig, I am not sure +that my countrymen in general are so much aware. It might be, +that not having seen a fig for a considerable lapse of time, my +appetite was peculiarly sharpened towards its good qualities, but +it struck me that I never before tasted any so highly flavoured +or so delicate. Besides these, they sell to vessels putting in, +as we did, for water, some of the wine made in this and the +neighbouring islands; but the quantity thus disposed of must be +too inconsiderable to entitle it to be classed among the articles +of merchandise. + +I find, however, that I am entering upon subjects in which I am +but little versed, and digressing from my narrative. Let me +return, then, to self, that beloved idol of all travellers, and +state that, after we had ridden about six miles, the road, which +had hitherto conducted us along a narrow glen, where the vision +was intercepted on both sides, now carried us to the summit of a +lofty mountain, from whence we enjoyed the satisfaction of an +extensive prospect, both of the sea and of the interior. Looking +towards the former, we beheld our own fleet bearing down +majestically upon Ponto del Gada, and fast approaching the +anchorage. Turning our eyes inland again, we were delighted with +a view of mountain and valley, rock and culture, wood and +pasturage, intermingled in the most exquisite degree of +irregularity; but what principally attracted our attention was a +thick dark smoke rising slowly from the summit of a high hill +that bounded the prospect. Our curiosity being excited by this +phenomenon, we inquired from our guides into its cause, and were +informed that the mountain in question was a volcano, and that at +its base and along its sides were hot springs of water, of a +temperature sufficient to boil an egg in three minutes. This +piece of intelligence confirmed me in my former opinion relative +to the operative cause in the production of these islands; +though, indeed, had such evidence been wanting, I should have +equally concluded, either that they were thrown up, in their +present form, from the bottom of the sea, or at least that they +were torn asunder from one another by the force of fire. It must +be confessed, however, that mine is the opinion of one who has +devoted little of his attention to geology; but I would by all +means advise the disciples of Werner to come hither, if they +desire further helps in the prosecution of that very interesting +and practically useful study. + + + +Chapter V. + + +DESCENDING the mountain, on which we had paused for a few minutes +to feast our eyes and satisfy our curiosity, we arrived at a +small hamlet, or rather a group of two or three hovels, as +romantically situated as it is possible for the imagination of +man to conceive. They stood at the further end of a sort of +recess, formed by the hills, which are here broken into a +circular valley, cut off, to all appearance, from the rest of the +habitable world; behind them rose a towering crag, as +perpendicular as the drop of a plummet, from the top of which a +little rivulet came tumbling down, giving to the scene an +appearance of the most delightful coolness, and amusing the ear +with the unceasing roar of a waterfall. From the very face of +the cliff, where there seemed to be scarcely soil enough to +nourish a thistle, numerous shrubs and dwarf trees protruded +themselves; whilst above it, and on every side of the area, the +hills were covered with wood, interrupted now and then by the +bald forehead of a blackened rock. In front of the hamlet again, +there was an opening sufficient to admit the most delicious +glimpse of the ocean; and through this the stream, after boiling +for awhile in a little basin, which it has excavated for itself +out of what resembles the foundation of the cliff, makes its way, +brawling over a clear pebbly bottom, till it joins the sea. + +This paragon of valleys burst upon us as such scenes, to be +witnessed with advantage, ought to do, without the slightest +warning or expectation. The road by which we approached it, +being completely shut in with wood, and winding considerably to +aid the descent, brought us out nearly at the gorge of the vale, +so as to throw the hamlet, the cliff, and the waterfall into the +background; and as the whole was of such extent as to be taken in +at one glance, the effect was striking beyond anything of the +kind I ever witnessed. It is but natural to suppose that we had +no desire to hurry through such a glen as this; and seeded not +the additional motive which the weariness of our donkeys +afforded, to persuade us to a temporary halt. Giving the +animals, therefore, to the care of their owners, we dismounted, +and went into some of the cabins, the inhabitants of which +appeared to be as simple as the situation of their abodes had +prepared us to expect. The men were all goatherds, and the women +seemed to be as idle as their countrywomen in Portugal, sitting +at the doors of their houses, surrounded by groups of half-naked +and filthy-looking children. If it be fair to judge from their +dress and the furniture of their hovels, they were miserably +poor, though perfectly contented; they did not ask us for money, +but astonished, I suppose, at the glaring colour of our coats, +they were very inquisitive to know who we were and whence we had +come. The English, the French, and the Portuguese seemed to be +the only three nations of whose existence they had any knowledge; +and having been assured, in answer to their first question, that +we were not French, they immediately added, "Then you must be +English." They did not appear, however, to be without some +degree of cunning, for as long as we paused in replying to their +query, they were silent; but no sooner had we answered in the +negative than they launched forth into the most violent +invectives against the French; convincing us that the animosity +of the mother-country towards its barbarous invaders was not more +implacable than that of the colonies. + +Having loitered away half an hour in this romantic spot, and +distributed a few dollars among its inhabitants, we remounted our +steeds and continued our journey. The remainder of the ride +carried us through scenery very similar to what we had already +passed; the only difference was, that the nearer we approached to +Ponto del Gada the more frequent became the spots of cultivation, +the width and smoothness of the road improving in proportion; +till at last, when we had attained the brow of an eminence, from +whence the town with its port and bay were distinguishable, we +looked down upon an extensive valley, richly covered with fields +of standing corn. Quickening our pace, we soon entered the +capital of St. Michael's, and were conducted by the drivers to a +good hotel, kept by an Englishwoman of the name of Currie, where +we found every accommodation which we could desire, at a very +moderate expense. + +PONTO DEL GADA + +As we had started at an early hour from Villa Franca, the clocks +were just striking ten when we alighted at Mrs. Currie's hotel; +consequently, there was a long day yet before us, in which we +might see everything that was to be seen in the place. Having +discharged our muleteers, therefore, who seemed overjoyed at the +receipt of one dollar a-piece, swallowed a hasty breakfast, and +made ourselves somewhat comfortable, we lost no time in setting +out upon a stroll of examination and discovery. + +Ponto del Gada is, on the whole, rather a neat town, containing +from twelve to fourteen thousand inhabitants; but being built, +especially in the outskirts, without much regard to compactness, +it covers more ground than many places of double the amount in +population. It stands upon a little bay, formed by two +projecting headlands, and can boast of a tolerable harbour +excellent roadstead. In its immediate vicinity the country a +more uniformly level than any I had yet observed; the vale +extending to the distance of four or five miles on every side, +had ending in an amphitheatre of low green hills, which resemble +appearance, the downs as they are seen from Eastbourne in Sussex. +The whole of this flat is in a state of high cultivation, being +cleared, perhaps too completely, of wood, and portioned off into +different fields and parks by hedges and stone walls. Judging +from the appearance of the crops, I should conceive that the +soil was here of some depth, as well as fertility, the whole +valley being covered with wheat, barley, and Indian corn. And in +truth, if the aspect of the country beyond the downs, where rocks +tower one above another in rude and barren grandeur, furnish a +legitimate criterion by which to determine respecting the general +fertility of the island, I should be almost tempted to believe +that the whole industry of its people has been expended upon this +spot, simply because it was the only one capable of rewarding it. +I was assured, however, by the natives, that such is not the case; +and that, in the interior, and towards the opposite coast, the +rugged magnificence of mountain scenery gives place to a more +profitable though less picturesque champaign. + +The principal streets of Ponto del Gada are paved, and kept once +cool and clean by a. constant sprinkling of water, which is the +business of two or three men stationed at pumps within obtain +distance of one another, to scatter over them. Of the by-streets +little can be said in praise, they being, like those of other +Portuguese towns, composed of mean cottages, unpaved, and +extremely dirty. There is, however, an air of elegance given to +the town, particularly when looked at from a distance, by the +intermixture of orange-groves among the houses; the largest of +these, wherever they happen to stand, being, in general, +surrounded by extensive gardens, all of which are abundantly +stocked with that graceful and odoriferous plant. Add to this +the number of towers and spires with which its numerous churches +and convents are supplied, and the first aspect of the whole may +be conceived to be extremely striking and imposing. + +As soon as we had taken a hurried survey of the streets, the next +object of attention was the religious houses. In these there was +but little to admire, the architecture being of the plainest +kind, and even the chapels as much wanting in ornament as can be +imagined. There were, indeed, in most of them some trifling +attempts at carved work and gilding upon the roof, a little +stained glass, neither rich nor ancient, in the windows, and a +few tawdry pictures suspended above the altars; but the general +appearance was decidedly that of buildings which did not even aim +at beauty or grandeur. The monks we found a good-natured, +obliging set of men, very willing to give us any information in +their power; by one of whom we were fortunate enough to be +conducted through a convent of Augustine friars. Into their mode +of living it is not to be supposed that we could obtain much +insight. It seemed, however, to be less indolent than that of +some convents which we had visited in the old country, and +approached proportionably nearer to a college life among +ourselves; though it must be admitted that the fellows and +undergraduates of Oxford and Cambridge have a better notion of +both comfort and elegance than the Augustine friars of +St. Michael's. Of the nuns we of course saw nothing, excepting +through the grates. We found them full of curiosity, and eager +to know as much as they could learn of the world from which they +were excluded; but quite as fond of flirting as any set of young +ladies at a boarding-school. It was amusing to observe their +mode of begging, for all the nuns in this part of the world are +licensed beggars. The younger and fairer members of the +sisterhood came to the grate first; chatted, sung, and presented +us with artificial flowers, and then retiring, made way for the +old and the ugly, who requested a little money for the good of +our souls and their bodies. To solicitations thus expressed it +was impossible to turn a deaf ear, and the consequence was, that +we soon discovered it to be quite as expensive an amusement to +flirt with a nun, as with any other belle in London or elsewhere. + +Besides the churches and convents, amounting in all to not fewer +than nine, there is a fort erected for the protection of the +harbour, which we likewise endeavoured to see, but were prevented +by the sentinel at the gate, who refused us admittance. The +disappointment, however, was not great, as it was easy to +perceive, from its outward appearance, that the fort could +possess few points worthy of observation; and, indeed, we +attributed the reluctance evinced in admitting strangers to its +utter uselessness as a place of defence. + +To describe all this occupies but a small portion of time; but to +see it was the laborious employment of an entire day. Wearied +out at length with my exertions, and not feeling much rewarded, +at least for the latter part of my trouble, I returned in +the evening to the hotel, where, as the ships were still at +anchor, taking on board water and fresh provisions, I ventured to +spend the night. + +Having thus discovered that there was little in the works of art, +and a great deal in those of nature, throughout St. Michael's, to +interest the traveller, a friend and myself determined to set off +next morning on a visit to the volcano. With this design we +ordered asses, for asses are the only animals for hire, to be in +readiness by daybreak; and finding them in waiting at the time +appointed, we took a guide with us and pushed forward in the +direction of the dark smoke. The mountain with its crater being +distinctly visible from Ponto del Gada, we took it for granted +the distance between the two places could not exceed twelve or +fourteen miles; but, on inquiring of our guide, we learned that +the nearest road would carry us at least twenty-seven miles from +the town. This was at once a startling and unpleasant piece of +intelligence, affecting our arrangements in no trifling degree. +To proceed was dangerous, because, mounted as we were, to go and +return in one day was impossible; and, if we remained so far from +the shipping during the night, the fleet might sail v before we +should be able to get back. On the the other hand, to give up +our design, and quit a country where a volcano was to be seen, +without seeing it, appeared rather a mortifying prospect. After +weighing for a few minutes the chances on both sides, I shall not +say with the utmost impartiality, curiosity finally prevailed +over apprehension; and, in order to prevent any further +repentance and consequent change of mind, we put our donkeys into +a gallop, and hurried on as fast as they could carry us. But the +speed of the asses and our own venturous determination proved, +after all, equally unavailing; for, on gaining the summit of the +downs, and looking back upon the fleet, we beheld, to our great +sorrow, the signal for sailing displayed at the topmasts of all +the ships. Mortified at our disappointment, and at the same time +rejoicing that we had got no farther on our journey, we were +compelled to turn our asses' heads, and to retrace our steps +towards Ponto del Gada, where we found everything in the bustle +and confusion of a re-embarkation. The beach was covered with +sailors, soldiers, bullocks, and casks of fresh water, hurrying, +and being hurried, indiscriminately into the boats which had +arrived to take them off. The townspeople were running about +upon the strand, some offering their skiffs to convey the +officers on board the ships, some helping to swing the bullocks +into the barges, and others shouting and hallooing apparently +from the disinterested love of noise. In short, it was a scene +of great liveliness and bustle, perhaps rather too much so to be +agreeable. + +Seeing this universal eagerness to reach the fleet, we, like the +rest, threw ourselves into the first boat we could approach, and +in a short time found ourselves on board our own ship. But here +a very tantalizing piece of intelligence awaited us, for we +learnt that, in spite of all this show of preparation, the +Admiral had not begun to weigh anchor; and that no intention of +moving was entertained, at soonest, before the morrow. The +opportunity, however, was lost; it could not be recovered, and we +were obliged to submit as cheerfully as we could, though it was +impossible to help regretting, what had at first been a source of +consolation, the circumstance of our having caught a view of the +signal at the time we did. But, as the event proved, all had +turned out for the best; for on the day following the signal was +again repeated; and by way of giving additional weight to it, the +Admiral began to shake loose his topsails. Nor did it prove, +like that of yesterday, a false alarm. By mid-day, the +victualling and watering being complete, the fleet immediately +began to get under weigh; and, as the wind blew fair and fresh, +before dark the mountains of St. Michael's could be seen only +like a thin vapour in the sky. Next morning nothing but the old +prospect of air and water met the gaze, as we stood our course, +at a rapid rate, towards Bermuda. + +AT SEA + +The voyage from St. Michael's to Bermuda occupied the space of +almost an entire month, the first having been lost sight of on +the 27th of June, and it being the 24th of July before the low +shores of the last could be discerned. It was, however, a +passage of more interest and productive of more variety than that +from Bordeaux to the Azores. We had now arrived within the +influence of the tropical climate, and were not unfrequently +amused with water-spouts, and other phenomena peculiar to warm +regions. The flying-fish, likewise, and its pursuer, the +dolphin, afforded at least something to look at; whilst many idle +hours were whiled away in attempts to catch or strike the latter +with harpoons. In these we were not always unsuccessful, +consequently we enjoyed several opportunities of watching the +change of colour which that fish undergoes whilst it is dying; +and though the description generally given of it is certainly +indebted in some degree to the imagination of voyagers, I must +confess that the transitions from blue to purple, and from +purple to green, with all their intermediate shades, are +extremely beautiful. When the fish is in the water, it is by no +means remarkable for brilliancy of hue, and as as soon as it is +dead it returns to its original colour--a dingy sea-green; but +whilst it is floundering and flapping upon the deck, it is +impossible to say what is its real appearance, so many and so +different are the hues which it assumes. Nor did we escape +without the occasional occurrence of a less agreeable species of +variety; I mean squalls, thunder-storms, and whirlwinds. As we +approached Bermuda, indeed, these became too frequent to excite +any interest beyond an earnest desire that they would cease: but +while we were yet a good way off, and the incident rare, they +were witnessed with more of admiration than terror. + +Besides these amusements with which nature supplied us, we were +not backward in endeavouring to amuse ourselves. Being now +pretty well accustomed to the atmosphere of a ship, we began to +consider ourselves at home, and to give balls and other public +entertainments through the fleet. One of these I shall take leave +to describe, because I am sure it must interest from its novelty. +On the 19th of July, at an early hour in the morning, a signal +was made from the Royal Oak, that the Admiral would be happy to +see the officers of the fleet on board his ship that evening. +Boats were accordingly sent off from the different vessels, +loaded with visitors; and on mounting the gangway, a stage, with +a green curtain before it, was discovered upon the quarter-deck. +The whole of the deck, from the poop to the mainmast, was hung +round with flags, so as to form a moderate-sized theatre; and the +carronades were removed from their port-holes, in order to make +room for the company. Lamps were suspended from all parts of the +rigging and shrouds, casting a brilliant light upon this singular +playhouse; and the crew, arrayed in their best attire, crowded +the booms, yards, and fore part of the deck; whilst the space +from the mainmast to the foot of the stage was set with benches +for the more genteel part of the audience. + +At seven o'clock the curtain drew up, and discovered a scene +painted with such taste as would not have disgraced any theatre +in London. The play was the 'Apprentice,' with the 'Mayor of +Garret' as an afterpiece, performed by the officers of the ship +and of the artillery, and went off in high style, applauded, as +it deserved to be applauded, with the loudest acclamations. The +quarter-deck of a British line-of-battle ship has often enough +been a stage for the exhibition of bloody tragedies; but to +witness a comedy and a farce upon that stage, and in the middle +of the Atlantic Ocean, was delightful from its very singularity. +When the performance came to an end, the stage was knocked down, +the seats removed, and everything cleared for dancing. The music +was excellent, being composed of the band of the Royal Oak; and +the ball was opened by Admiral Malcolm and the Honourable Mrs. +Mullens, in a country dance, followed by as many couples as the +space would permit; the greater number of officers dancing, as +necessity required, with one another. In this amusement every +person, from the Admiral and General, down to the youngest ensign +and midshipman, joined, laying aside for the time all restraint +or form of discipline; and having kept it up with great spirit +till considerably beyond midnight, a blue light was hoisted as a +signal for the different boats to come off for the strangers, and +each returned to his own ship highly gratified with the evening's +entertainment. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +BERMUDA + +By employing ourselves in this manner, and by keeping up what is +emphatically called a good heart, we contrived to pass out time +agreeably enough. As often as the weather would permit, and the +fleet lay well together, we made parties of pleasure to the +different ships; when the wind was too high, and the fleet too +much scattered for such proceedings, we remained at home, and +amused ourselves in the best way we could. Some of the captains, +and ours among the number, were possessed of very tolerable +libraries, the doors of which they politely threw open for the +benefit of their military guests; and thus, by reading, fishing, +and boating, we were enabled to make head, with some success, +against the encroachments of ennui. It must be confessed, +however, that in spite of strenuous efforts to the contrary, that +determined enemy of all idle persons was beginning to gain ground +upon us, when, about mid-day on the 24th of July, a cry of land +was heard from the mast-head. All eyes were immediately turned +in the direction to which the sailor pointed, and as wind blew +fair and moderately fresh, no great length of time before the +same object was distinguishable from the deck. A signal was +immediately hoisted for a pilot, who lost no time in coming off +to us; and before dark we were at anchor opposite to the tanks in +Bermuda. + +The appearance of Bermuda is altogether as different from that of +St. Michael's as one thing can be from another. Whilst the last, +with its lofty mountains and bold shores, can be seen at the +distance of many leagues, a ship must be within a few miles of +the first before the slightest symptom of land is discernible. +On this account it is that mariners find greater difficulty in +making Bermuda than perhaps any other island or continent in the +known world; the most experienced seaman frequently sailing past +it, and not a few suffering shipwreck every year upon its +numerous shoals and rocks. For not only is the land itself low, +and thus apt to be run against by vessels which may have +approached in stormy weather too near to put about, but for many +miles round, reefs of sunken rocks stretch out into the sea in +every direction; insomuch, that even the approach to the +principal anchorage is no more than a narrow channel between two +reefs, in many places scarcely exceeding a mile or a mile and a +half in width. The navigation, even in calm weather, is +therefore attended with considerable danger; the idea of which is +greatly heightened by the remarkable clearness of the water and +the peculiar brightness of the rocks. In some places this is so +much the case, that the bottom may be seen at the depth of six or +seven fathoms; whilst the aspect of the reefs which lie on each +side, as you steer towards the anchorage, is such, as almost to +persuade you, contrary to the evidence of reason, that a man +might leap upon them from a boat without incurring the danger of +being wet above the knees. Yet these very reefs are seldom +covered with less than six, and sometimes with fourteen and +fifteen feet of water. + +Low as they are, the shores of Bermuda are nevertheless extremely +beautiful. They are covered with cedar, a tree which here, at +least, seldom exceeds the height of twenty feet, and from which, +before the sun has risen and after he has set, the land breeze +comes loaded with the most delicious perfume. Under the wood +there grows a rich short turf, apparently struggling to spread +itself over the chalky rocks, of which the entire island, or +rather islands, seem to be composed; and, as the houses of the +better orders are chiefly built within reach of the cool air from +the water, they, with their little lawns and gardens, produce a +lively and pleasing effect. + +As darkness had come on before the ship could be properly moored, +no boats were permitted to leave her that night; but at an early +hour next morning I embraced the first opportunity of going on +shore. To reach St. George's, the capital of the colony, you are +obliged to row for several miles up a narrow frith called the +ferry, immediately on entering which the scenery becomes in the +highest degree picturesque. Though still retaining its character +of low, the ground on each side looks as if it were broken into +little swells, the whole of them beautifully shaded with groves +of cedar, and many of them crowned with country-houses as white +as the drifted snow. But the fact is, that this appearance of +hill and dale is owing to the prodigious number of islands which +compose the cluster; there being in all, according to vulgar +report, not fewer than three hundred and sixty-five, of which the +largest exceeds not seven or eight miles in diameter. Yet it is +only when you follow what at first you are inclined to mistake for +a creek or the mouth of a river, that you discover the absence of +valleys from between these hills; and even then you are more apt +to fancy yourself upon the bosom of a lake studded with islets, +than steering amid spots of earth which stand, each of them +distinct, in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. + +In the town of St. George's there is nothing to be seen at all +worthy of record. It consists of about fifty or sixty houses, +the glare from which, as they are all built of the chalk stone, is +extremely dazzling to the eyes. It is called the capital, +because here the court-house stands and the magisterial sittings +are held; but in point of size, and, as far as I could learn, in +every other respect, it is greatly inferior to Hamilton, another +town at the opposite extremity of the cluster, which I did not +visit. A little way from St. George's, and on the summit of a +bare rock, stand the barracks, fitted up for the accommodation of +a thousand men; and about a mile and a half beyond them are the +tanks, well worth the notice of travellers. The object of this +work is to catch and preserve the rain--a measure which the total +deficiency of fresh springs throughout the colony renders +absolutely necessary. There are, indeed, wells dug upon the +beach, but the water in these is nothing more than sea-water, +filtered and rendered brackish in making its way through the +sand, and by no means fit to be used, at least in any quantity. +To supply this deficiency, the bad effects of which were +experienced in the unhealthiness of many of the crews upon the +American station, Government was induced to build these tanks; +consequently the water contained in them is the property of the +king, and none but king's ships, with the troops in garrison, are +permitted, except in extreme cases, to be supplied from thence. + +The climate of Bermuda has been extolled by many, and among the +rest by Mr. Moore in his odes and epistles, as salubrious and +delightful. It is possible that he, and the rest of its +eulogists, may have visited these islands at a season of the year +different from that in which I visited them, but to me the heat +was beyond measure oppressive. Lying, as they do, under the +influence of a vertical sun, and abounding in all directions with +cliffs of white chalk, it is obvious that the constant reflection +of the sun's rays thereby occasioned must be quite overpowering. +If these panegyrists mean to say, that as long as you contrive to +keep in the shade, and take care not to stir abroad till after +sunset, you will find the Bermudas deserving of their title of +summer-islands, then I will agree with them; but I believe there +is no man who ever walked the street of St. George's at noon, or +any other spot where the sun-beams could reach him, that did not +consider the heat as anything rather than temperate. + +But whatever may be thought of the climate, there can, I think, +be but one opinion as to the soil. It is generally admitted that +there is no more unproductive spot of earth upon the face of the +deep than Bermuda. The only animals which appear to thrive are +the goat and the duck; the cedar and a few calabash-trees are the +only wood, and, except the most common kinds of vegetables, such +as cabbages, onions, and sweet potatoes; I know of hardly another +thing brought to perfection, even in the gardens. The fruits +which a stranger may meet with are no doubt delicious, since +among them he will find the shaddock and the pine-apple; but for +these, as well as for almost all their other comforts and +luxuries, the Bermudians are indebted to the continent of America +or to the West Indies. Whether this be owing to the natural +sterility of the soil, or to the extreme indolence of the +inhabitants, I cannot pretend to decide; though I should be +inclined to suspect that both were, in some degree, to blame; but +its consequences are felt by all visitors, in a very sensible +manner, every article of living being here sold for thrice its +intrinsic value. That provisions should be dear in this country +cannot surprise, when it is considered that this small colony is +the general depot and place of resort for repairs and stores to a +large proportion of the British navy, scattered along the coast +of America; but, surely, if the natives were a little more +industrious, they might afford to sell their goods at a cheaper +rate, and at the same time secure an equal, if not a greater +profit. But their indolence is beyond all conception, and can be +attributed only to, what I believe is its real cause, the +facility with which they acquire fortunes, from men who are +necessitated to give whatever they demand for the most trifling +article. The poorest and meanest freeman upon the island never +dreams of applying his own hand, or even his own head, to the +cultivation of the ground; and being abundantly supplied with +negro slaves, they leave everything, even the care of providing +necessaries for themselves, to the industry of that ill-used +race. I may perhaps be considered as expressing myself with +too much severity towards the Bermudians, but, in truth, I repeat +only what I was told by some of themselves; nor did I, from my +own personal observation, discover any cause to question the +veracity of my informers. + +In the praise bestowed by Mr. Moore upon the beauty of these +regions, I do, however, most cordially join. There is something +bewitchingly pretty, for pretty is perhaps the most appropriate +epithet to be used, in every one of the many views which you may +obtain from different points. The low and elegant cedar, the +green short turf, the frequent recurrence of the white and +dazzling rock, the continual rise and fall of the numerous small +islands, but above all, the constant intermingling of land and +water, seem more like a drawing of fairy land than a reality. +There is nothing grand, nothing imposing, or calculated to excite +any feeling bordering upon the awful, throughout the whole; but +it is soft, gentle, and exquisitely pleasing. + +Having spent the day at St. George's, I returned on board to +sleep; and on the morrow removed, with my baggage, to a transport +then lying at anchor within the ferry, which was thenceforth to +be my head-quarters. Thither my friend Grey also removed, and as +our ship was well stored, and its commander civil and +accommodating, we had no reason to complain of any suffering +consequent upon our change of residence. + +It will be readily believed that a very small portion of our time +was now wasted on board ship; for economy's sake we usually slept +there, because at the inn the charge for beds, as well as for +everything else, was enormous; but all the hours of daylight were +devoted to rowing round the different islands, and climbing the +different eminences, from whence the most extensive prospects +were to be obtained. Among other curiosities, we were informed +of two caves in one of the little isles, distant about four or +five miles from the place where we lay. Being assured that they +were highly deserving of notice, we determined to visit them; and +setting off one evening for that purpose, we reached the spot +which had been pointed out to us a little before dark. We +fastened the boat to the stump of a tree, and were proceeding +towards the caves, when a fine manly voice, singing one of the +Irish melodies, attracted our attention. Being rather curious to +discover who, in this extramundane place, had learnt to sing with +so much taste, we followed the direction of the sound, till we +came upon a party sitting under the shade of a tent, and, like +ourselves, enjoying the cool of the evening; on perceiving us, +some of them came forward, and the satisfaction was mutual when +we recognised one another as old acquaintances. They urged us to +relinquish our design, and to partake of their good cheer, with +which, as the hour was late, we had small reluctance in +complying; and it was agreed, that instead of going on without +proper guides, and at so unseasonable a time, we should breakfast +together at the same spot in the morning, and proceed in a body +to examine the caverns. Here, therefore, we remained till the +moon had risen, when we returned to our boat, and sailed back to +the ship. + +Next morning everything was prepared for the expedition, but a +heavy squall coming on, prevented us from setting out as early as +we had intended; as soon, however, as this blew over, we took to +our boat, and reached the place of rendezvous in time to share +the remains of a good breakfast which our friends had prepared +for themselves and us. When our meal was finished, we supplied +ourselves with torches from some dry branches of the +calabash-tree, and, headed by a guide, moved towards the mouth of +the nearest and largest of the two caves. We descended into this +by a ladder of sixteen steps, and arrived upon a broad ledge of +rock, where we halted for a few minutes to light the torches, and +accustom our vision to the gloom; when, both of these ends being +attained, we advanced a few paces into the cave, and a sight of +the most indescribable sublimity burst upon us. The appearance +was that of a huge Gothic cathedral, having its roof supported +upon pillars of spar, moulded into the most regular shapes, and +fluted and carved after the most exact models of architecture. +The roof itself was indeed too lofty to be discerned, nor could +the eye penetrate to anything like an extremity, all beyond a +certain extent being wrapped in the most profound darkness; but +the flashes of light which at intervals streamed out, as the +glare of the torches fell upon pieces of spar as clear as +crystal, and the deep echo of our own voices as we spoke, +inspired us with a feeling of awe bordering upon superstition. +It is in such a situation as this, that the poverty of the +mightiest monument of human art becomes conspicuous. The most +magnificent churches and abbeys, with their sculptured pillars +and vaulted ceilings, were thought of as mean in comparison of +what was now before us; indeed, I for one could not help +imagining that these very churches and abbeys had been built in +humble imitation of this, which looked like a temple reared by +some beings more powerful than men. It seemed a shrine worthy of +the genii of old, while yet they were in the zenith of their +glory, ere they had been driven from their thrones and oracles of +darkness by the light of Christianity. + +As we moved onward we found the sides of the cave gradually +narrow upon us, and the roof become lower and lower. There was, +however, a continuance of the same fane-like appearance to the +last, though growing more and more contracted; till, finally, we +were compelled to advance one by one, and to stoop in order to +prevent our heads from coming into contact with the rock. We had +proceeded as far as it was possible to proceed with any degree of +comfort, and were informed by the guide that we were upwards of +three hundred yards from the entrance, when we found it expedient +to wheel about, and to return to the open air. But the effect of +so sudden a change from darkness to light was exceedingly +disagreeable; insomuch that we hastened into the smaller cave, as +well for the purpose of deferring the moment of suffering as to +continue our search after the sublime. + +The entrance to this cavern is extremely dangerous, and not to be +ventured upon without either a trusty guide or a thorough +knowledge of the ground. After descending a ladder, not quite so +deep as that which leads into the larger cave, we arrived at the +brink of a fearful chasm, across which a flat stone, about two +feet in width, was laid, connecting the edges by a bridge four or +five feet in length. To what depth the chasm may reach, the +guide could not inform us; but that it is considerable we +discovered by dropping a large stone, which we could hear for +some time as it dashed against the projecting edges of the rock, +and at length splashed with a tremendous echo into water. The +man maintained that the sea beat under the foundation of the +island as far as the spot where we now stood, and his story was +rendered at least probable by the number of pools of salt water +which we met with in the interior of the cave. + +After having visited the larger cavern, this certainly appeared +to disadvantage; though in truth it is in its dimensions only +that the one can be pronounced inferior to the other. The spar +is equally clear and proportionably as abundant in both: the +pillars are quite as regularly formed, and the lesser has an +advantage over its rival in two or three broken columns, which +give to it the semblance of a temple in ruins. There is also in +this cave a strange propinquity of salt and fresh water pools, +the situation of two of which struck me as peculiarly curious. +They were divided from each other by a piece of rock not much +thicker than a man's hand; and yet the water from the one tasted +as if it had been taken from the German Ocean, whilst that from +the other was as fresh and pleasant as possible. + +We had by this time fully gratified our curiosity, and once more +ascended to the world of sunshine, the splendour of which was at +first almost insupportable. By degrees, however, our eyes became +accustomed to the change and recovered their original tone, when +we separated, each party returning to its respective ship in high +good humour with the day's employment. + +But to dine quietly on board was no longer endurable. A tent was +accordingly carried on shore, and having sought out the most +shady and agreeable nook within a moderate distance of the +vessel, our dinner was brought thither, and we spent the evening, +as we had done the morning, among the works of nature. Here we +remained till a late hour, talking over the adventures of the +day, and occasionally attempting a blind peep into futurity, till +our friend the moon having risen, we again pulled on board by her +light, and lay down to dream of sparry domes and enchanted +temples. + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +AMERICA + +SOME apology is due to the reader, whose attention has been thus +long withdrawn from other and more important matters, to follow +the adventures of an humble individual like myself. The fault, +however, of which I have been guilty may be at once repaired, +when I inform him that on our arrival at Bermuda we found Sir +Alexander Cochrane, in the Tonnant, of eighty guns, waiting to +receive us, and to take the command of the whole fleet. The +secret of our destination likewise, which up to that moment had +been kept, transpired almost as soon as we cast anchor off the +island; and it was publicly rumoured that our next point of +debarkation would be somewhere on the shores of the Bay of +Chesapeake. Nor are these the only interesting public +occurrences of which no notice has as yet been taken. On the 4th +of June our little army was reinforced by the arrival of the 21st +Fusiliers, a fine battalion, mustering nine hundred bayonets, +under the command of Colonel Patterson. On the evening of the +29th a squadron of four frigates and several transports appeared +in the offing, which by mid-day on the day following were all at +anchor in the roads. They proved to be from the Mediterranean, +having the 21st, 29th, and 62nd Regiments on board, of which the +two latter were proceeding to join Sir George Prevost's army in +Canada, whilst the former attached itself to that under the +command of General Ross. By this very acceptable reinforcement, +our numbers were increased to upwards of three thousand effective +men, and a greater confidence in themselves, as well as a better +grounded hope of success in whatever they might undertake, was at +the same time given to the troops. + +Having already dwelt sufficiently upon my own personal Adventures +at Bermuda, I shall not waste time by a particular detail of the +various preparations which during this interval were making +throughout the fleet. Stores of provisions, fresh water, +ammunition, clothing, &c., were provided, and magazines for the +future supply of the expedition established; when, on the 3rd +of August, all things being complete, the ships once more got +under weigh, and stood towards America. + +THE CHESAPEAKE + +During the whole of this day the wind was light and unsteady, +consequently little progress was made, nor did the white rocks of +Bermuda disappear till darkness concealed them; but towards +morning a fresher and more favourable breeze springing up, the +rest of the voyage was performed in reasonable time, and without +the occurrence of any incident worthy of notice. The heat, +indeed, became more and more oppressive every day, and the +irksomeness of renewed confinement was more sensibly experienced +from the long holiday which we had enjoyed on shore; but, in +other respects, everything returned to its former state, till +towards evening on the 14th, when a signal was made by the +Admiral that land was in sight. As yet, however, there was no +appearance of it from the deck of our transport, nor for a full +half-hour could our anxious gaze be rewarded by the slightest +trace of what it sought; but at the end of that time the low +sandy point of Cape Charles began to show itself, and we rejoiced +in the prospect of a speedy release from the ennui of a seafaring +life. + +The coast of America, at least in this quarter, is universally +low and uninteresting; insomuch, that for some time before the +land itself can be discerned, forests of pines appear to rise, as +it were, out of the water. It is also dangerous from the +numerous shoals and sandbanks which run out in many places to a +considerable extent into the sea, and which are so formidable +that no master of a vessel, unless he chance to be particularly +well acquainted with the navigation, will venture to approach +after dark. The fleet was accordingly anchored within a few +miles of the shore, but no sooner had the day begun to break than +the sails were again hoisted, and the ships, steering under the +influence of a leading wind, between the Capes Charles and Henry, +stood in gallant style up the Chesapeake. + +This noble bay is far too wide, and the land on each side too +flat, to permit any but an indistinct glimpse of the shore from +the deck of a vessel which keeps well towards the middle. On the +present occasion we could distinguish nothing, on either hand, +except the tops of trees, with occasionally a windmill or a +lighthouse; but the view of our own fleet was in truth so +magnificent as to prevent any murmuring on that account. +Immediately on entering, we were joined by Admiral Cockburn with +three line-of-battle ships, several frigates, and a few sloops of +war and gun-brigs, by which means the squadron could now muster +above twenty vessels entitled to display the pendant, besides an +equal if not a greater number of victuallers and transports. Nor +were we strengthened by this addition in the naval part of the +expedition alone. On board these ships was embarked a powerful +reinforcement for the army, consisting of a battalion of seven +hundred marines, a hundred negroes lately armed and disciplined, +and a division of marine artillery, so that we could now +calculate on landing a corps of at least four thousand men. The +spectacle was therefore as agreeable and imposing as might be; +because we could not help remembering that this magnificent fleet +was sailing in an enemy's bay, and that it was filled with troops +for the invasion of that enemy's country. Thus, like a snowball, +we had gathered as we went on, and from having set out a mere +handful of soldiers, were now become an army, formidable as well +from its numbers as its discipline. + +The shoals and sandbanks which abound on the outside of the bay, +continue to encumber the navigation after it is entered, and the +fleet was in consequence compelled to anchor every night. This +proceeding unavoidably occasioned much delay. The first day's +sail carried us only to the mouth of the James river, and the +second to the mouth of the Potomac; but, on both occasions, we +brought up at too great a distance from the beach to permit +perfect or distinct view of either of these rivers. Opposite to +the latter, indeed, we remained for a night and a considerable +part of the following day, and the sky being remarkably clear, we +saw something more of it than we had been able to see of the +other river. It appeared to be a fine piece of water making its +way through the centre of huge forests, and, though the current +is in reality strong, flowing on without any apparent motion. +But it would have been impossible to trace its course, even had +we been nearer to the shore, above a few miles, on account of its +numerous windings, the first of which, overshadowed as it is with +wood, shuts it out from further observation. By continuing here +so long, we had begun to conjecture that a landing somewhere on +the banks of this river was in contemplation. In this, however, +we were deceived, for about one o'clock the fleet was again +under sail, and moving towards the Patuxent, a river which +empties itself into the bay, several miles above the Potomac. + +THE PATUXENT. + +It was singular enough, that the ships had scarcely begun to lift +their anchors, when the sky, which had hitherto continued clear +and serene, became suddenly darkened and overcast with heavy +clouds: and the water, which before had been as smooth and bright +as a mirror, began to rise in black waves tipped with foam, +though there was not a breath of air to fill the +sails. Hurricanes are, I believe, not unfrequent in this part of +the world, and it was expected that these changes in the sea and +sky foreboded the arrival of one; but they passed by without +producing any violent results, and when we brought up, which was +done in the evening, the clouds had dispersed, and the water was +again like a glassy lake. + +The 18th of August had now arrived, and as yet we had advanced no +farther than to the mouth of the Patuxent. There we lay, as we +had done the day before, anxiously expecting a breeze; till about +noon, the wind beginning to blow fair, the fleet entered the +river and made its way slowly and majestically against the +stream. The voyage soon became picturesque and interesting in +the highest degree. Fields of Indian corn, with meadows of the +most luxuriant pasture, stretched along the margin of the stream +on either hand; whilst the neat wooden houses of the settlers, +all of them painted white, and surrounded with orchards and +gardens, presented a striking contrast to the boundless forests +which formed a background to the scene. Of the prodigious extent +and gloomy appearance of these forests, it is impossible for any +language to convey an adequate conception. There is nothing, at +least nothing which I have seen, in the Old World, at all +resembling or to be compared with them; and hemming in, as they +do, on every side, the tiny spots of cultivation, they certainly +convey no very enlarged idea of the power of human industry. The +cleared fields on the banks of the Patuxent, for example, could +in no direction measure above half a mile across,--in many places +their breadth fell short of that, from the river to the woods; +and then all was one vast forest, through which no eye could +penetrate, nor any traveller venture to seek his way. We were, +as may be imagined, greatly taken by scenery so novel; and we +continued to gaze upon it with the liveliest interest, till our +attention was drawn away to other and more important matters. + +ST. BENEDICT'S. + +We had not proceeded many miles from the river's mouth when a +telegraph from the Admiral gave orders for the troops to be in +readiness to land at a moment's notice. Everything was forthwith +put in a state of forwardness; provisions for three days, that is +to say, three pounds of pork, with two pounds and a half of +biscuit, were cooked and given to the men; the cartouch-boxes +were supplied with fresh ammunition, and the arms and +accoutrements handed out. The fleet, however, continued to move +on, without showing any inclination to bring to; till at length, +having ascended to the distance of ten leagues from the bay, the +ships of the line began to take the ground; and in a little while +after, even the frigates could proceed no farther. But by this +time the sun had set, and darkness was coming on; consequently, +there was no possibility, for that day, of getting the troops on +shore without much confusion, if not danger. All therefore +remained quiet for the night, with this exception, that the +soldiers were removed from the large ships into such as drew +least water; which running up as high as prudence would permit, +under convoy of the gun-brigs and sloops of war, there cast +anchor. + +As soon as the dawn began to appear, on the morning of the 19th, +there was a general stir throughout the fleet. A gun-brig had +already taken her station within a hundred and fifty yards of a +village called St. Benedict's, on the left bank of the river, +where it was determined that the disembarkation should be +effected. Her broadside was turned towards the shore, and her +loaded with grape and round shot, were pointed at the beach, to +cover the landing of the boats; and being moored and aft with +spring-cables, she was altogether as manageable as if she had +been under sail. The rest of the ships were several miles lower +down the stream, some of them being aground the distance of four +leagues from this point; but the boats were quickly hoisted out +from every one of them, and the river as covered in a trice with +a well-manned and warlike flotilla. The disembarkation was +conducted with the greatest regularity and dispatch. Though the +stream ran strong against them, and some of them were obliged to +row fourteen or fifteen miles backwards and forwards, so +strenuously did the sailors exert themselves, that by three +o'clock in the afternoon the whole army was landed, and occupied +a strong position about two miles above the village. + +From what I have stated respecting the gun-brig, it will be seen +that all things were in readiness to meet and repel opposition, +should such be offered. Her broadside being pointed directly +towards the village, whilst it hindered the enemy from bringing +down troops in that direction, gave to our people an opportunity +of forming, and being able to meet, in good order, whatever force +might be posted to check their advance up the country. Had a few +pieces of artillery been mounted, indeed, upon the high ground, +afterwards taken possession of by us, some execution might have +been done upon the boats as they drew towards the beach; but even +that would have been trifling, because, unless they had had +leisure to heat their shot, no artillery, in the open country +could have long stood before the fire of even a gun-brig, armed +as this was for the occasion with long thirty-two pounders. Each +boat-load of soldiers, likewise, drew up the moment they stepped +on shore, forming line without any regard to companies or +battalions; whilst parties were instantly dispatched to +reconnoitre, and to take possession of every house, as well as to +line every hedge, in front of the shore where their comrades were +arriving. But these preparations, though no more than common +prudence required, were unnecessary; since there was not only no +opposition to the landing, but, apparently, no enemy within many +miles of the place. + +So much time was unavoidably expended in establishing the +different regiments on the ground allotted to them, in bringing +up the hospital and commissariat stores, and arranging the +materiel, that when all things were ready, the day appeared too +far spent to permit an advance into a country, of the nature and +military situation of which we were of course ignorant. The +afternoon was accordingly devoted to a proper distribution of the +force; which was divided into three brigades, in the following +order:-- + +The first, or light brigade, consisted of the 85th, the light +infantry companies of the 4th, 21st, and 44th regiments, with the +party of disciplined negroes, and a company of marines, amounting +in all to about eleven hundred men; to the command of which +Colonel Thornton, of the 85th regiment, was appointed. + +The second brigade, composed of the 4th and 44th regiments, which +mustered together fourteen hundred and sixty bayonets, was +intrusted to the care of Colonel Brooke, of the 44th; and the +third, made up of the 21st, and the battalion of marines, and +equalling in number the second brigade, was commanded by Colonel +Patterson, of the 21st. The whole of the infantry may, +therefore, be estimated at four thousand and twenty men. Besides +these, there were landed about a hundred artillery-men, and an +equal number of drivers; but for want of horses to drag them, no +more than one six-pounder and two small three-pounder guns were +brought on shore. Except those belonging to the General and +staff-officers, there was not a single horse in the whole army. +To have taken on shore a large park of artillery would have been, +under such circumstances, absolute folly, indeed, the pieces +which were actually landed, proved in the end of very little +service, and were drawn by seamen sent from the different ships +for the purpose. The sailors, thus employed, may be rated at a +hundred, and those occupied in carrying stores, ammunition, and +other necessaries, at a hundred more; and thus, by adding these, +together with fifty sappers and miners, to the above amount, the +whole number of men landed at St. Benedict's may be computed at +four thousand five hundred. + +This little army was posted upon a height which rises at the +distance of two miles from the river. In front was a valley, +cultivated for some way, and intersected with orchards; at the +further extremity of which the advanced piquets took their +ground; pushing forward a chain of sentinels to the very skirts +of the forest. The right of the position was protected by a +farm-house with its enclosure and outbuildings, and the left +rested upon the edge of the hill, or rather mound, which there +abruptly ended. On the brow of the hill, and about the centre of +the line were placed the cannon, ready loaded, and having lighted +fusees beside them; whilst the infantry bivouacked immediately +under the ridge, or rather upon the slope of the hill which +looked towards the shipping, in order to prevent their +disposition from being seen by the enemy; should they come down +to attack. But as we were now in a country where we could not +calculate upon being safe in rear, any more than in front, the +chain of piquets was carried round both flanks, and so arranged, +that no attempt could be made to get between the army and the +fleet, without due notice, and time given to oppose and prevent +it. Everything, in short, was arranged with the utmost skill, +and every chance of surprise provided against; but the night +passed in quiet, nor was an opportunity afforded of evincing the +utility of the very soldier-like dispositions which had been +made. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +NOTTINGHAM + +NEXT morning the troops, as is customary during a state of active +warfare, were under arms an hour before daylight, and remained in +position till after the sun had risen. It was then confidently +expected that the column would be put in motion, though in what +direction it was to proceed, or what was the object of the +descent, none but the General himself appeared to know. A +rumour, indeed, prevailed, that a flotilla of gun-boats upon the +Patuxent, commanded by the American Commodore Barney, was the +point of attack; and that while the land force advanced up the +river to prevent their retreat, armed boats from the fleet were +to engage them in front. That such was in reality the primary +object of the landing, I have every reason to believe, though +circumstances afterwards occurred to bring about a change in the +plan of operations. Into these, however, I shall not now enter, +because they are in no way, connected with the present stage of +my narrative, but shall merely observe, that in their +expectations of an immediate advance the troops were +disappointed. Whether it was that the arrangements had not been +completed, or that intelligence respecting the state of the +country and the enemy's preparations was wanting, I do not know; +but the regiments returned to the ground which they had occupied +during the night, and everything resumed the same face which it +had worn on the evening before. + +In this state affairs continued till four o'clock in the +afternoon, when the General suddenly made his appearance in the +camp, the bugles sounded, and the regiments formed in order for +marching. Nor did many minutes elapse before the word was given, +and the army began to move, taking the direction of Nottingham, a +town situated on the river, where it was understood that the +flotilla lay at anchor. The march was conducted with the same +caution and good order that had marked the choice of ground for +encamping and the disposition of the troops in position. The +advanced-guard, consisting of three companies of infantry, led +the way. These, however, were preceded by a section of twenty +men, moving before them at the distance of a hundred yards; and +even these twenty were but the followers of two files, sent +forward to prevent surprise, and to give warning of the approach +of the enemy. Parallel with the head of the three companies +marched the flank patrols; parties of forty or fifty men, which, +extending in files from each side of the road, swept the woods +and fields to the distance of nearly half a mile. After the +advanced guard, leaving an interval of a hundred or a hundred and +fifty yards, came the light brigade; which, as well as the +advance, sent out flankers to secure itself against ambuscades. +Next to it, again, marched the second brigade, moving steadily +on, and leaving the skirmishing and reconnoitring to those +in front; then came the artillery, consisting, as I have already +stated, of one six and two three-pounder guns, drawn by seamen; +and last of all came the third brigade, leaving a detachment at +the same distance from the rear of the column, as the advanced +guard was from its front. + +In moving through an enemy's country, the journeys of an army +will, except under particular circumstances, be regulated by the +nature of the ground over which it passes: thus, though eight, +ten, or even twelve miles may be considered as a short day's +march, yet if at the end of that space an advantageous position +occur (that is, a piece of ground well defended by natural or +accidental barriers, and at the same time calculated for the +operations of that species of force of which the army may be +composed), it would be the height of imprudence to push forward, +merely because a greater extent of country might be traversed +without fatiguing the troops. On the other hand, should an army +have proceeded eighteen, twenty, or even twenty-five miles, +without the occurrence of any such position, nothing except the +prospect of losing a large proportion of his men from weariness +ought to induce a general to stop, until he has reached some spot +at least more tenable than the rest. Our march to-day was, upon +this principle, extremely short, the troops halting when they had +arrived at a rising ground distant not more than six miles from +the point whence they set out; and having stationed the piquets, +planted the sentinels, and made such other arrangements as the +case required, fires were lighted, and the men were suffered to +lie down. + +It may seem strange, but it is nevertheless true, that during +this short march of six miles a greater number of soldiers +dropped out of the ranks, and fell behind from fatigue, than I +recollect to have seen in any march in the Peninsula of thrice +its duration. The fact is that the men, from having been so long +cooped up in ships, and unused to carry their baggage and arms, +were become relaxed and enervated to a degree altogether +unnatural; and this, added to the extreme sultriness of the day, +which exceeded anything we had yet experienced, quite +overpowered them. The load which they carried, likewise, was far +from trifling, since, independent of their arms and sixty rounds +of ball-cartridge, each man bore upon his back a knapsack, +containing shirts, shoes, stockings, &c., a blanket, a haversack, +with provisions for three days, and a canteen or wooden keg +filled with water. Under these circumstances, the occurrence of +the position was extremely fortunate, since not only would the +speedy failure of light have compelled a halt, whether the ground +chanced to be favourable or the reverse, but even before darkness +had come on scarcely two-thirds of the soldiers would have been +found in their places. + +The ground upon which we bivouacked, though not remarkable for +its strength, was precisely such as might tempt a General to +halt, who found his men weary and in danger of being +benighted. It was a gentle eminence, fronted by an open and +cultivated country, and crowned with two or three houses, having +barns and walled gardens attached to them. Neither flank could be +said to rest upon any point peculiarly well defended, but they +were not exposed; because, by extending or condensing the line, +almost any one of these houses might be converted into a +protecting redoubt. The outposts, again, were so far arranged +differently from those of yesterday, that, instead of covering +only the front and the two extremities, they extended completely +round the encampment, enclosing the entire army within a +connected chain of sentinels; and precluding the possibility of +even a single individual making his way within the lines +unperceived. + +These precautions were, however, like those of the preceding day, +unnecessary; no enemy making his appearance, even to reconnoitre: +and yet it cannot be said that the night was passed in +uninterrupted quiet, for the troops had scarcely lain down when +they were disturbed by a tremendous storm of thunder and +lightning, accompanied by a heavy fall of rain. The effect of +the lightning, as it glanced for a moment upon the bivouac, and +displayed the firelocks piled in regular order, and the men +stretched like so many corpses beside them, was extremely fine. +The effect of the rain, however, was not so agreeable, for, being +perfectly destitute of shelter, we were speedily wet to the skin; +and the remainder of our resting-time was rendered thereby the +reverse of comfortable. But the feeling of fretfulness, natural on +such an occasion, lasted no longer than till the day dawned, and +the line of march was again formed; when their former good-humour +returning, and seasoned in some degree by the fatigues of +yesterday, the troops moved on in excellent order and in the +highest spirits. + +The route to-day was different, in many respects, from that of +yesterday. In the first place, we had now got beyond the stretch +of cultivation, and were proceeding through forests of +immeasurable extent; this, of itself, gave a very different +aspect to all around, because hitherto we had seen houses and +fields of corn on each side of the road, and now we could +discover nothing but wild savannahs, apparently untenanted by a +single human being. In the next place, we learnt from some of +the country people, who had been impressed as guides into our +service, that numerous detached bodies of riflemen lay in ambush +among the thickets; and the very expectation of having something +to do, created a degree of excitement which, till now, we had not +experienced. In consequence of that information, the flank +patrols were strengthened and commanded to extend to a greater +distance; the advanced guard marched at a greater interval from +the head of the column, and the whole army moved forward with +more caution and circumspection than had hitherto been used. + +In the course of this day's march a little adventure occurred to +myself, which, in the illiberality of my heart, I could not but +regard as strikingly characteristic of the character of the +people to whom we were now opposed, and which, as at the time it +had something in it truly comical, I cannot resist the +inclination of repeating, though aware that its title to drollery +must in a great measure be lost in the relation. Having been +informed that in a certain part of the forest a company of +riflemen had passed the night, I took with me a party of +soldiers, and proceeded in the direction pointed out, with the +hope of surprising them. On reaching the place, I found that +they had retired, but I thought I could perceive something like +the glitter of arms a little farther towards the middle of the +wood. Sending several files of soldiers in different directions, +I contrived to surround the spot, and then moving forward, I +beheld two men dressed in black coats, and armed with bright +firelocks and bayonets, sitting under a tree; as soon as they +observed me, they started up and took to their heels, but being +hemmed in on all sides, they quickly perceived that to escape was +impossible, and accordingly stood still. I hastened towards +them, and having arrived within a few paces of where they stood, +I heard the one say to the other, with a look of the most perfect +simplicity, "Stop, John, till the gentlemen pass." There was +something so ludicrous in this speech, and in the cast of +countenance which accompanied it, that I could not help laughing +aloud; nor was my mirth diminished by their attempts to persuade +me that they were quiet country people, come out for no other +purpose than to shoot squirrels. When I desired to know whether +they carried bayonets to charge the squirrels, as well as muskets +to shoot them, they were rather at a loss for a reply; but they +grumbled exceedingly when they found themselves prisoners, and +conducted as such to the column. + +But to return to the principal narrative. The army had now +advanced within a few miles of Nottingham, and the men were +beginning to look forward with some anxiety to a halt; whilst as +yet nothing beyond the capture of a few stragglers had occurred +to confirm the rumours which, in the morning, and during the +whole of the march, had occasioned so much more circumspection +than appeared to be requisite. The day was likewise far spent, +and, as was to be expected, the ranks were beginning to be less +carefully preserved, when a smart firing in the wood upon the +right of the road gave new life and energy to the soldiers. It +was now confidently expected that the enemy would make a stand. +The column closed its order, ready to wheel into line in a +moment, and everything was on the qui vive: but it proved to be +no more than a rencounter between a party of American riflemen +and the flank patrol. After firing a few shots, the enemy gave +way, and our main body, which had continued to move on during the +skirmish, came in without the slightest opposition to the town of +Nottingham. + +We found this place (a town or large village, capable of +containing from a thousand to fifteen hundred inhabitants) +completely deserted. Not an individual was to be seen in the +streets, or remained in the houses; whilst the appearance of the +furniture, &c., in some places the very bread left in the ovens, +showed that it had been evacuated in great haste, and immediately +before our arrival. The town itself stands upon the banks of the +Patuxent, and consists of four short streets, two running +parallel with the river, and two others crossing them at right +angles, The houses are not such as indicate the existence of much +wealth or grandeur among the owners, being in general built of +wood, and little superior to cottages; but around the village are +others of a far better description, which convey the idea of good +substantial farm-houses, a species of mansion very common in the +United States. For several miles in every direction the country +was in a high state of cultivation; though, instead of the maize +and wheat which we had hitherto seen, the fields were covered +with an abundant and luxuriant crop of tobacco. This plant +seems, indeed, to be at all times the staple commodity of that +district; for, besides what was growing and unripe, we found +numerous barns filled with the remains of last year's crop; the +whole of which was, of course, seized in the name of His Majesty +King George the Third. But in the main object of our pursuit we +were disappointed. The flotilla, which had been stationed +opposite to Nottingham, retired, on our approach, higher up the +stream; and we were consequently in the situation of a huntsman +who sees his hounds at fault, and has every reason to apprehend +that his game will escape. + +MARLBOROUGH + +In this posture the army continued during the night, having its +right defended by the river, and its left extending considerably +beyond the town, and secured, as usual, by a connected chain of +outposts; nor was it put in motion, as had been done the day +before, as soon as there was sufficient light to distinguish +objects. There seemed, indeed, to be something like hesitation +as to the course to be pursued,--whether to follow the gun-boats, +or to return to the shipping; but, at last, the former proceeding +was resolved upon, and the column set forward about eight +o'clock, in the direction of Marlborough, another village, about +ten miles beyond Nottingham. The road by which we travelled, as +well to-day as during the whole of the excursion, was +remarkably good; in some places rather heavy, from being cut +through a sandy soil, but in general hard, dusty, and, to use an +expressive phrase, having a sound bottom. Running, as it did for +the most part, through the heart of thick forests, it was also +well sheltered from the rays of the sun; a circumstance which, in +a climate like this, is of no slight importance. To-day, our +whole journey was of this description, nor did we reach a single +cultivated spot till we approached the vicinity of Marlborough; +when we found ourselves in a country not more fertile than +beautiful. The ground, which had been hitherto perfectly flat, +was now broken into the most graceful swells, generally cleared +of wood to within a short space of the summits, and then crowned +with hoar and venerable forests. The village itself lies in a +valley formed by two green hills; the distance from the base of +one hill to the base of the other may be about two miles, the +whole of which was laid out in fields of corn, hay, and tobacco; +whilst the slopes themselves were covered with sheep, for whose +support they furnished ample means. But Marlborough is not, like +an English village, compact, and consisting of one or two lanes +the houses are scattered over the plain, and along the sides of +the hills, at considerable intervals from one another, and are +all surrounded by orchards and gardens, abounding in peaches and +other fruits of the most delicious flavour. To add to the beauty +of the place, a small rivulet makes its way through the bottom, +and winding round the foot of one of these ridges, falls into the +Patuxent, which flows at its back. + +During our progress to-day the same caution was observed which +had been practised yesterday. Nor was it altogether unnecessary, +several bodies of the enemy's horse occasionally showing +themselves, and what appeared to be the rear-guard of a column +of infantry evacuating Marlborough, as our advance entered. + +MARCH TO WASHINGTON. + +There was, however, little or no skirmishing, and we were allowed +to remain in the village all night without molestation. But if we +were not harassed, we were at least startled on the march by +several heavy explosions. The cause of these we were at first +unable to discover; but we soon learnt that they were occasioned +by the blowing up of the very squadron of which we were in +pursuit, and which Commodore Barney, perceiving the impossibility +of preserving, prudently destroyed, in order to prevent its +falling into our hands. + +In Marlborough we remained not only during the night, but till +past noon on the following day. The hesitation which had caused +the loss of a few hours at Nottingham again interfered, and +produced a delay which might have been attended with serious +consequences. At length, however, orders were given to form, and +we quitted Marlborough about two in the afternoon, taking the +road to Washington. During this day's march there was more +skirmishing than had yet occurred. We had scarcely got above +three miles from the village, when the advanced guard fell in +with a party of riflemen, who maintained a sharp contest before +they gave way. The column, however, continued to move on without +molestation, till arriving at a point where two roads meet, the +one leading to Washington, the other to Alexandria, a strong body +of troops, with some artillery, were observed upon the slope of a +height opposite. The capture of Washington was now the avowed +object of our invasion; but the General, like an experienced +officer, was desirous of keeping his enemy in the dark as to his +plan of operations. Whilst the advanced guard, therefore, +reinforced by two additional companies, marched directly forward +to dislodge the party from the heights, the rest of the army +wheeled to the left, taking the road which leads, not to +Washington, but to Alexandria. These movements were not lost +upon the enemy, who, observing by the dust in what direction the +main body had filed off, immediately began to retreat, without +waiting for the approach of the detachment sent against ahem. As +they ascended the hill, however, they made a show of halting and +forming a line. Our men moved steadily on in column, covered by +one company in extended order along the front; but the enemy, +having merely thrown a few round shot with great precision among +the skirmishers, broke once again into marching order, and were +quickly hid by the rising ground. As soon as they had +disappeared, the advance halted; and having remained for about an +hour on a little hill to watch their motions, turned to the left, +and followed the rest of the army, which they found +advantageously posted at a place called Woodyard. + + +CHAPTER IX. + + +I HAD almost forgotten to state that, from the first moment of +our landing, the want of cavalry, so useful in obtaining +information and reconnoitring the open country, was very sensibly +felt. To remedy this evil, as far as it could by such means be +remedied, orders had been issued to catch and bring in all the +horses that were found in the fields or stables of any houses +along the road; and these orders being punctually obeyed, there +were now fifty or sixty in the camp. Upon these some of the +artillery-drivers were mounted, and the command of the troop +being given to an officer of experience, it was found of great +service during the remainder of the march. + +The advanced guard having joined the main body, the whole army, +with the exception of a party which had been sent to the rear to +bring up a convoy of provisions, was now bivouacked upon a rising +ground, well defended by hedge-rows and thickets. The night, +however, was not spent in as much quietness as usual. It was +late before the troops got to their ground, consequently the +piquets, for want of light, could not be posted in their +customary good order, neither had there been time to examine the +country in the neighbourhood of the position. The outposts were, +therefore, kept in a state of constant anxiety by the frequent +appearance of small parties of the enemy, who hovered about, +probably with the design of cutting off stragglers, or perhaps of +surprising, if they could, some of the piquets themselves. But +whatever their intentions might be, the vigilance of the sentries +contrived to render them abortive; nor did anything occur during +the night productive of serious alarm; and the following day, +being joined by the convoy which came up in safety, the column +was again in motion, hastening across the country into the +highroad, which had been deserted for no other purpose than to +mislead the Americans. + +Having started on the 24th at an early hour, our march was for +some time both cool and agreeable. The road--if road it could be +called--wound for the first five miles through the heart of an +immense forest, and being, in every sense of the word, a by-path, +was completely overshadowed by projecting branches of trees, so +closely interwoven, as to prevent a single sunbeam from making +its way, even at noon, within the arch. We continued to move on, +therefore, long after the sun had risen, without being sensible +that there was not a cloud in the sky to screen us from his +influence; whilst a heavy moisture continually emitted from the +grass and weeds on both sides of us, produced a coolness which, +had it been less confined, would have proved extremely +pleasant. So far, then, we proceeded without experiencing any +other inconvenience than what was produced by the damp and fetid +atmosphere which we breathed; but no sooner had we begun to +emerge from the woods and to enter the open country, than an +overpowering change was perceived. The sun, from which we had +been hitherto defended, now beat upon us in full force; and the +dust rising in thick masses from under our feet, without a breath +of air to disperse it, flew directly into our faces, occasioning +the greatest inconvenience both to the eyes and respiration. I +have stated this at length, because I do not recollect a period +of my military life during which I suffered more severely from +heat and fatigue; and as a journey of a few miles, under such +circumstances, tells more than one of thrice the distance in a +cool day and along a firm wintry road, it is not surprising that +before many hours had elapsed numbers of men began to fall behind +from absolute inability to keep up. + +Yet, in spite of all this, there was that in to-day's march which +rendered it infinitely more interesting than any we bad performed +since the landing. We had learnt, from various quarters, that +the enemy was concentrating his forces for the purpose of +hazarding a battle in defence of his capital. The truth of these +rumours we had no cause to doubt, confirmed as they were by what +we had ourselves witnessed only the evening before; indeed the +aspect of various fields on each side of the high road (which we +had now regained), where smoking ashes, bundles of straw, and +remnants of broken victuals were scattered about, indicated that +considerable bodies of troops had passed the night in this +neighbourhood. The appearance of the road itself, likewise, +imprinted as it was with fresh marks of many feet and hoofs, +proved that these troops could be no great way before us; whilst +our very proximity to Washington, being now distant from it not +more than ten or twelve miles, all tended to assure us that we +should at least see an American army before dark. + +It was now that we experienced the great usefulness of our badly +mounted troopers, or as they were called by the private soldiers, +our Cossacks. The country, from being extremely close, had +become open on every side to a considerable extent, although +thick groves, instead of hedges, frequently separated one field +from another. This was exactly the ground on which cavalry could +act with advantage; because they might lie in ambush behind these +groves, totally unperceived, and when an opportunity offered, +charge the column, before it had time to prepare for their +reception. There were one or two places, indeed, where such +events were confidently anticipated; whole rows of paling having +been pulled up from the side of the road, and open spaces left, +through which several squadrons of horse might gallop; and the +consequence was that every man held his breath in expectation, +and prepared himself to form square in a moment. It was here +that the mounted drivers became peculiarly useful. They were +divided into small parties of six or eight, and sent out in +different directions to reconnoitre, two of them generally taking +post at every suspicious corner, that one might give notice to +the column, whilst the other watched the motions of an enemy. + +It so happened that these precautions were unnecessary, for +whatever might be the strength of the Americans in cavalry, their +General did not think fit to employ it in harassing our +march. But the very knowledge that every danger was provided +against, and that they could not be attacked without having time +to make ready, gave to the soldiers a degree of steady confidence +which they would otherwise have wanted; and the want of which, +had the case been different, might have been productive of +disorder at a moment when good order was of vital importance. + +BLADENSBURG. + +We had now proceeded about nine miles, during the last four of +which the sun's rays had beat continually upon us, and we had +inhaled almost as great a quantity of dust as of air. Numbers of +men had already fallen to the rear, and many more could with +difficulty keep up; consequently, if we pushed on much farther +without resting, the chances were that at least one half of the +army would be left behind. To prevent this from happening, and +to give time for the stragglers to overtake the column, a halt +was determined upon, and being led forward to a spot of ground +well wooded, and watered by a stream which crossed the road, the +troops were ordered to refresh themselves. Perhaps no halt ever +arrived more seasonably than this, or bid fair to be productive +of more beneficial effects; yet so oppressive was the heat, that +we had not resumed our march above an hour, when the banks by the +way side were again covered with stragglers; some of the finest +and stoutest men in the army being literally unable to go on. + +The hour of noon was approaching, when a heavy cloud of dust, +apparently not more than two or three miles distant, attracted +our attention. From whence it originated there was little +difficulty in guessing, nor did many minutes expire before +surmise was changed into certainty: for on turning a sudden angle +in the road, and passing a small plantation, which obstructed the +vision towards the left, the British and American armies became +visible to one another. The position occupied by the latter was +one of great strength and commanding attitude. They were drawn +up in three lines upon the brow of a hill, having their front and +left flank covered by a branch of the Potomac, and their right +resting upon a thick wood and a deep ravine. This river, which +may be about the breadth of the Isis at Oxford, flowed between +the heights occupied by the American forces and the little town +of Bladensburg. Across it was thrown a narrow bridge, extending +from the chief street in that town to the continuation of the +road, which passed through the very centre of their position; and +its right bank (the bank above which they were drawn up) was +covered with a narrow stripe of willows and larch trees, whilst +the left was altogether bare, low, and exposed. Such was the +general aspect of their position as at the first glance it +presented itself; of which I must endeavour to give a more +detailed account, that my description of the battle may be in +some degree intelligible. + +I have said that the right bank of the Potomac was covered with a +narrow stripe of willow and larch trees. Here the Americans had +stationed strong bodies of riflemen, who, in skirmishing order, +covered the whole front of their army. Behind this plantation, +again, the fields were open and clear, intersected, at certain +distances, by rows of high and strong palings. About the middle +of the ascent, and in the rear of one of these rows, stood the +first line, composed entirely of infantry; at a proper interval +from this, and in a similar situation, stood the second line; +while the third, or reserve, was posted within the skirts of a +wood, which crowned the heights. The artillery, again, of which +they had twenty pieces in the field, was thus arranged on the +high road, and commanding the bridge, stood two heavy guns; and +four more, two on each side of the road, swept partly in the same +direction, and partly down the whole of the slope into the +streets of Bladensburg. The rest were scattered, with no great +judgment, along the second line of infantry, occupying different +spaces between the right of one regiment and the left of another; +whilst the cavalry showed itself in one mass, within a stubble +field, near the extreme left of the position. Such was the +nature of the ground which they occupied, and the formidable +posture in which they waited our approach; amounting, by their +own account, to nine thousand men, a number exactly doubling that +of the force which was to attack them. + +In the mean time, our column continued to advance in the same +order which it had hitherto preserved. The road, having +conducted us for about two miles in a direction parallel with the +river, and of consequence with the enemy's line, suddenly turned, +and led directly towards the town of Bladensburg. Being of +course ignorant whether this town might not be filled with +American troops, the main body paused here till the advanced +guard should reconnoitre. The result proved that no opposition +was intended in that quarter, and that the whole of the enemy's +army had been withdrawn to the opposite side of the stream, +whereupon the column was again put in motion, and in a short time +arrived in the streets of Bladensburg, and within range of the +American artillery. Immediately on our reaching this point, +several of their guns opened upon us, and kept up a quick and +well-directed cannonade, from which, as we were again commanded +to halt, the men were directed to shelter themselves as much as +possible behind the houses. The object of this halt, it was +conjectured, was to give the General an opportunity of examining +the American line, and of trying the depth of the river; because +at present there appeared to be but one practicable mode of +attack, by crossing the bridge, and taking the enemy directly in +front. To do so, however, exposed as the bridge was, must be +attended with bloody consequences, nor could the delay of a few +minutes produce any mischief which the discovery of a ford would +not amply compensate. + +But in this conjecture we were altogether mistaken; for without +allowing time to the column to close its ranks, or to be joined +by such of the many stragglers as were now hurrying, as fast as +weariness would permit, to regain their places, the order to halt +was countermanded, and the word given to attack; and we +immediately pushed on at double quick time, towards the head of +the bridge. While we were moving along the street, a continued +fire was kept up, with some execution, from those guns which +stood to the left of the road; but it was not till the bridge was +covered with our people that the two-gun battery upon the road +itself began to play.--Then, indeed, it also opened, and with +tremendous effect; for at the first discharge almost an entire +company was swept down; but whether it was that the guns had been +previously laid with measured exactness, or that the nerves of +the gunners became afterwards unsteady, the succeeding discharges +were much less fatal. The riflemen likewise began to gall us +from the wooded bank with a running fire of musketry; and it was +not without trampling upon many of their dead and dying comrades +that the light brigade established itself on the opposite side of +the stream. + +When once there, however, everything else appeared easy. +Wheeling off to the right and left of the road, they dashed into +the thicket, and quickly cleared it of the American skirmishers; +who, falling back with precipitation upon the first line, threw +it into disorder before it had fired a shot. The consequence +was, that our troops had scarcely shown themselves when the whole +of that line gave way, and fled in the greatest confusion, +leaving the two guns upon the road in possession of the victors. + +But here it must be confessed that the light brigade was guilty +of imprudence. Instead of pausing till the rest of the army came +up, the soldiers lightened themselves by throwing away their +knapsacks and haversacks; and extending their ranks so as to show +an equal front with the enemy, pushed on to the attack of the +second line. The Americans, however, saw their weakness, and +stood firm, and having the whole of their artillery, with the +exception of the pieces captured on the road, and the greater +part of their infantry in this line, they first checked the +ardour of the assailants by a heavy fire, and then, in their +turn, advanced to recover the ground which was lost. Against this +charge the extended order of the British troops would not permit +them to offer an effectual resistance, and they were accordingly +borne back to the very thicket upon the river's brink; where they +maintained themselves with determined obstinacy, repelling all +attempts to drive them through it; and frequently following, to +within a short distance of the cannon's mouth, such parts of the +enemy's line as gave way. + +In this state the action continued till the second brigade had +likewise crossed, and formed upon the right bank of the river; +when the 44th regiment moving to the right, and driving in the +skirmishers, debouched upon the left flank of the Americans, and +completely turned it. In that quarter, therefore, the battle was +won; because the raw militia-men, who were stationed there as +being the least assailable point, when once broken could not be +rallied. But on their right the enemy still kept their ground +with much resolution; nor was it till the arrival of the 4th +regiment, and the advance of the British forces in firm array to +the charge, that they began to waver. Then, indeed, seeing their +left in full flight, and the 44th getting in their rear, they +lost all order, and dispersed, leaving clouds of riflemen to +cover their retreat; and hastened to conceal themselves in the +woods, where it would have been madness to follow them. The rout +was now general throughout the line. The reserve, which ought to +have supported the main body, fled as soon as those in its front +began to give way; and the cavalry, instead of charging the +British troops, now scattered in pursuit, turned their horses' +heads and galloped off, leaving them in undisputed possession of +the field, and of ten out of the twenty pieces of artillery. + +This battle, by which the fate of the American capital was +decided, began about one o'clock in the afternoon, and lasted +till four. The loss on the part of the English was severe, +since, out of two-thirds of the army, which were engaged, upwards +of five hundred men were killed and wounded; and what rendered it +doubly severe was, that among these were numbered several +officers of rank and distinction. Colonel Thornton, who +commanded the light brigade, Lieutenant-Colonel Wood, commanding +the 85th regiment, and Major Brown, who led the advanced guard, +were all severely wounded; and General Ross himself had a horse +shot under him. On the side of the Americans the slaughter was +not so great. Being in possession of a strong position, they +were of course less exposed in defending, than the others in +storming it; and had they conducted themselves with coolness and +resolution, it is not conceivable how the battle could have been +won. But the fact is, that, with the exception of a party of +sailors from the gun-boats, under the command of Commodore +Barney, no troops could behave worse than they did. The +skirmishers were driven in as soon as attacked, the first line +gave way without offering the slightest resistance, and the left +of the main body was broken within half an hour after it was +seriously engaged. Of the sailors, however, it would be +injustice not to speak in the terms which their conduct merits. +They were employed as gunners, and not only did they serve their +guns with a quickness and precision which astonished their +assailants, but they stood till some of them were actually +bayoneted, with fuzes in their hands; nor was it till their +leader was wounded and taken, and they saw themselves deserted on +all sides by the soldiers, that they quitted the field. With +respect to the British army, again, no line of distinction can be +drawn. All did their duty, and none more gallantly than the +rest; and though the brunt of the affair fell upon the light +brigade, this was owing chiefly to the circumstance of its being +at the head of the column, and perhaps also, in some degree, to +its own rash impetuosity. The artillery, indeed, could do +little; being unable to show itself in presence of a force so +superior; but the six-pounder was nevertheless brought into +action, and a corps of rockets proved of striking utility. + +Our troops being worn down from fatigue, and of course as +ignorant of the country as the Americans were the reverse, the +pursuit could not be continued to any distance. Neither was it +attended with much slaughter. Diving into the recesses of the +forests, and covering themselves with riflemen, the enemy were +quickly beyond our reach; and having no cavalry to scour even the +high road, ten of the lightest of their guns were carried off in +the flight. The defeat, however, was absolute, and the army which +had been collected for the defence of Washington was scattered +beyond the possibility of, at least, an immediate reunion; and as +the distance from Bladensburg to that city does not exceed four +miles, there appeared to be no further obstacle in the way to +prevent its immediate capture. + + + +CHAPTER X. + +WASHINGTON + +AN opportunity so favourable was not endangered by any needless +delay. While the two brigades which had been engaged remained +upon the field to recover their order, the third, which had +formed the reserve, and was consequently unbroken, took the lead, +and pushed forward at a rapid rate towards Washington. + +As it was not the intention of the British Government to attempt +permanent conquests in this part of America, and as the General +was well aware that, with a handful of men, he could not pretend +to establish himself, for any length of time, in an enemy's +capital, he determined to lay it under contribution, and to +return quietly to the shipping. Nor was there anything unworthy +of the character of a British officer in this determination. By +all the customs of war, whatever public property may chance to be +in a captured town, becomes, confessedly, the just spoil of the +conqueror; and in thus proposing to accept a certain sum of money +in lieu of that property, he was showing mercy rather than +severity to the vanquished. It is true that if they chose to +reject his terms he and his army would be deprived of their +booty, because without some more convenient mode of transporting +it than we possessed, even the portable part of the property +itself could not be removed. But, on the other hand, there was +no difficulty in destroying it; and thus, though we should gain +nothing, the American Government would lose probably to a much +greater amount than if they had agreed to purchase its +preservation by the money demanded. + +Such being the intention of General Ross, he did not march the +troops immediately into the city, but halted them upon a plain +in its immediate vicinity, whilst a flag of truce was sent +forward with terms. But whatever his proposal might have been, +it was not so much as heard; for scarcely had the party bearing +the flag entered the street, when it was fired upon from the +windows of one of the houses, and the horse of the General +himself, who accompanied it, killed. The indignation excited by +this act throughout all ranks and classes of men in the army, was +such as the nature of the case could not fail to occasion. Every +thought of accommodation was instantly laid aside; the troops +advanced forthwith into the town, and having first put to the +sword all who were found in the house from which the shots were +fired, and reduced it to ashes, they proceeded without a moment's +delay to burn and destroy everything in the most distant degree +connected with Government. In this general devastation were +included the Senate-house, the President's palace, an extensive +dock-yard and arsenal, barracks for two or three thousand men, +several large storehouses filled with naval and military stores, +some hundreds of cannon of different descriptions, and nearly +twenty thousand stand of small-arms. There were also two or +three public ropewalks which shared the same fate, a fine frigate +pierced for sixty guns, and just ready to be launched, several +gun brigs and armed schooners, with a variety of gun-boats and +small craft. The powder-magazines were set on fire, and exploded +with a tremendous crash, throwing down many houses in their +vicinity, partly by pieces of the walls striking them, and partly +by the concussion of the air; whilst quantities of shot, shell, +and hand-grenades, which could not otherwise be rendered useless, +were cast into the river. In destroying the cannon a method was +adopted which I had never before witnessed, and which, as it was +both effectual and expeditious, I cannot avoid relating. One gun +of rather a small calibre was pitched upon as the executioner of +the rest, and being loaded with ball and turned to the muzzles of +the others, it was fired, and thus beat out their breechings. +Many, however, not being mounted, could not be thus dealt with; +these were spiked, and having their trunnions knocked off, were +afterwards cast into the bed of the river. + +All this was as it should be, and had the arm of vengeance been +extended no further, there would not have been room given for so +much as a whisper of disapprobation. But unfortunately it did not +stop here; a noble library, several printing-offices, and all +the national archives were likewise committed to the flames, +which, though no doubt the property of Government, might better +have been spared. It is not, however, my intention to join the +outcry which was raised at the time against what the Americans +and their admirers were pleased to term a line of conduct at once +barbarous and unprofitable. On the contrary, I conceive that too +much praise cannot be given to the forbearance and humanity of +the British troops, who, irritated as they had every right to be, +spared, as far as possible, all private property, neither +plundering nor destroying a single house in the place, except +that from which the General's horse had been killed. + +Whilst the third brigade was thus employed, the rest of the army, +having recalled its stragglers, and removed the wounded into +Bladensburg, began its march towards Washington. Though the +battle came to a close by four o'clock, the sun had set before +the different regiments were in a condition to move, consequently +this short journey was performed in the dark. The work of +destruction had also begun in the city before they quitted their +ground; and the blazing of houses, ships, and stores, the report +of exploding magazines, and the crash of falling roofs, informed +them, as they proceeded, of what was going forward. It would be +difficult to conceive a finer spectacle than that which presented +itself as they approached the town. The sky was brilliantly +illumined by the different conflagrations; and a dark red light +was thrown upon the road, sufficient to permit each man to view +distinctly his comrade's face. Except the burning of +St. Sebastian's, I do not recollect to have witnessed at any +period of my life a scene more striking or more sublime. + +Having advanced as far as the plain, where the reserve had +previously paused, the first and second brigades halted; and +forming into close column, passed the night in bivouac. At first +this was agreeable enough, because the air was mild, and +weariness made up for what was wanting in comfort. But towards +morning a violent storm of rain, accompanied with thunder and +lightning, came on, which disturbed the rest of all who were +exposed to it. Yet in spite of the inconvenience arising from +the shower, I cannot say that I felt disposed to grumble at the +interruption, for it appeared that what I had before considered +as superlatively sublime, still wanted this to render it +complete. The flashes of lightning vied in brilliancy with the +flames which burst from the roofs of burning houses, whilst the +thunder drowned for a time the noise of crumbling walls, and was +only interrupted by the occasional roar of cannon, and of large +depots of gunpowder, as they one by one exploded. + +I need scarcely observe, that the consternation of the +inhabitants was complete, and that to them this was a night of +terror. So confident had they been of the success of their +troops, that few of them had dreamt of quitting their houses or +abandoning the city; nor was it till the fugitives from the +battle began to rush in, filling every place as they came with +dismay, that the President himself thought of providing for his +safety. That gentleman, as I was credibly informed, had gone +forth in the morning with the army, and had continued among his +troops till the British forces began to make their appearance. +Whether the sight of his enemies cooled his courage or not I +cannot say, but according to my informant, no sooner was the +glittering of our arms discernible, than he began to discover +that his presence was more wanted in the senate than in the +field; and having ridden through the ranks, and exhorted every +man to do his duty, he hurried back to his own house, that he +might prepare a feast for the entertainment of his officers, when +they should return victorious. For the truth of these details I +will not be answerable; but this much I know, that the feast was +actually prepared, though, instead of being devoured by American +officers, it went to satisfy the less delicate appetites of a +party of English soldiers. When the detachment sent out to +destroy Mr. Maddison's house, entered his dining parlour, they +found a dinner-table spread, and covers laid for forty guests. +Several kinds of wine in handsome cut-glass decanters were +cooling on the sideboard; plate-holders stood by the fire-place, +filled with dishes and plates; knives, forks, and spoons, were +arranged for immediate use; everything in short was ready for the +entertainment of a ceremonious party. Such were the arrangements +in the dining-room, whilst in the kitchen were others answerable +to them in every respect. Spits loaded with joints of various +sorts turned before the fire; pots, saucepans, and other culinary +utensils stood upon the grate; and all the other requisites for +an elegant and substantial repast were in the exact state which +indicated that they had been lately and precipitately abandoned. + +The reader will easily believe that these preparations were +beheld, by a party of hungry soldiers, with no indifferent +eye. An elegant dinner, even though considerably over-dressed, +was a luxury to which few of them, at least for some time back, +had been accustomed; and which, after the dangers and fatigues +of the day, appeared peculiarly inviting. They sat down to it, +therefore, not indeed in the most orderly manner, but with +countenances which would not have disgraced a party of aldermen +at a civic feast; and having satisfied their appetites with fewer +complaints than would have probably escaped their rival +gourmands, and partaken pretty freely of the wines, they finished +by setting fire to the house which had so liberally entertained +them. + +I have said that to the inhabitants of Washington this was a +night of terror and dismay. From whatever cause the confidence +arose, certain it is that they expected anything rather than the +arrival among them of a British army; and their consternation was +proportionate to their previous feeling of security, when an +event, so little anticipated, actually came to pass. The first +impulse naturally prompted them to fly, and the streets were +speedily crowded with soldiers and senators, men, women, and +children, horses, carriages, and carts loaded with household +furniture, all hastening towards a wooden bridge which crosses +the Potomac. The confusion thus occasioned was terrible, and the +crowd upon the bridge was such as to endanger its giving way. +But Mr. Maddison, as is affirmed, having escaped among the first, +was no sooner safe on the opposite bank of the river, than he +gave orders that the bridge should be broken down; which being +obeyed, the rest were obliged to return, and to trust to the +clemency of the victors. + +In this manner was the night passed by both parties; and at +daybreak next morning the light brigade moved into the city, +whilst the reserve fell back to a height about half a mile in the +rear. Little, however, now remained to be done, because +everything marked out for destruction was already consumed. Of +the Senate-house, the President's palace, the barracks, the +dockyard, &c., nothing could be seen, except heaps of smoking +ruins; and even the bridge, a noble structure upwards of a mile +in length, was almost entirely demolished. There was, therefore, +no further occasion to scatter the troops, and they were +accordingly kept together as much as possible on the Capitol +Hill. + +Of the city of Washington I have purposely declined attempting +any minute description, because it possesses no leading features, +by catching which I might hope to convey to a person who has not +seen it, something like an accurate notion of the whole. It was +then, and is, I believe, still in its infancy, few of the streets +being finished, and many containing not more than three or four +houses, at wide intervals from each other. But its situation +gives to it advantages such as few capitals either in the new or +old world can boast of, and if it continue to be the head of the +American States for another century, it will become, I doubt not, +one of the most flourishing cities in existence. America is, and +always will be, a commercial nation, nor can a single town +throughout the whole of that vast continent boast of a better +harbour than Washington. Standing upon the Potomac, one of the +most navigable of all the rivers that empty themselves into the +Chesapeake, the depth of which is sufficient to float a frigate +for some way above the town, it possesses unrivalled facilities +for the carrying on of an extensive trade; whilst its distance +from the coast is such as to place it, in a great measure, beyond +reach of insult from an enemy. Such an assertion, coming from +one who has just detailed the particulars of its capture, may, +indeed, appear to partake not slightly of the nature of a +paradox; but there is no denying that the fall of Washington +ought to be attributed much more to the misconduct of the +Americans themselves, than to the skill or enterprise of those +who effected it. Had the emergency been contemplated, and in a +proper manner provided against, or had the most moderate +ingenuity and courage been displayed in retarding the progress of +our troops, the design, if formed at all, would have been either +abandoned immediately, or must have ended in the total +destruction of the invaders. + +Like other infant towns, Washington is but little ornamented with +fine buildings; except the Senate-house, I really know of none +worthy to be noticed. This however is, or rather was, an edifice +of some beauty. It stood, where its ruins now stand, upon a mound +called the Capitol Hill, and near a trifling stream named the +Tiber; from which circumstances these modern republicans are led +to flatter themselves that the days are coming when it will rival +in power and grandeur the Senate-house of ancient Rome +herself. It was built entirely of freestone, tastefully worked +and highly polished; and, besides its numerous windows, was +lighted from the top by a large and handsome cupola. Perhaps it +could not be said to belong to any decided style of architecture; +but its central appearance was light, airy, and elegant. After +traversing a wide and spacious entrance-hall, you arrived at the +foot of a handsome spiral hanging staircase; on the right of +which were two spacious apartments, one above the other, which +were occupied as sitting chambers by the two houses of +representatives. From these branched off several smaller rooms, +fitted up as offices, and probably used as such by the various +officers of state. On the right of the staircase, again, were two +other apartments equal in size to those on the left, with a like +number of smaller rooms branching off from them. These were +furnished as a public library, the two larger being well stocked +with valuable books, principally in modern languages, whilst the +others, filled with archives, national statutes, acts of +legislature, &c., were used as the private rooms of the +librarians. + +The President's house, on the other hand, though likewise a +public building, was remarkable for nothing except the absence of +taste exhibited in its structure. It was small, incommodious, +and plain; in no respect likely to excite the jealousy of a +people peculiarly averse to all pomp or parade, even in their +chief magistrate. Besides these, there were also a custom-house, +several banking-houses, and a school or college, all claiming to +themselves the destruction of public works; but in them there was +a plainness amounting almost to coarseness, and a general air of +republicanism, by no means imposing. With respect to the number +of inhabitants which Washington contained, I confess that I +cannot pretend to give an opinion: but if any judgment may be +formed from the extent of ground covered by what is considered as +the town, I should say that they amounted to somewhere about +sixty thousand. George Town, the quarter where the President's +house stood, is compact and regular, containing, I should +conceive, at least twenty thousand souls within itself; nor can +the population of the other quarters be estimated at less than +double that number. + +Such was then the city of Washington, of which our hasty and +unfriendly visit did not allow us to take a very minute survey. +I return now to the movements of the British army. + +I have stated above that our troops were this day kept as much +together as possible upon the Capitol Hill. But it was not alone +on account of the completion of their destructive labours that +this was done. A powerful army of Americans already began to show +themselves upon some heights, at the distance of two or three +miles from the city; and as they sent out detachments of horse +even to the very suburbs, for the purpose of watching our +motions, it would have been unsafe to permit more straggling than +was absolutely necessary. The army which we had overthrown the +day before, though defeated, was far from annihilated; it had by +this time recovered its panic, began to concentrate itself in our +front, and presented quite as formidable an appearance as +ever. We learnt, also, that it was joined by a considerable force +from the back settlements, which had arrived too late to take +part in the action, and the report was, that both combined +amounted to nearly twelve thousand men. + +Whether or not it was their intention to attack, I cannot pretend +to say, because it was noon before they showed themselves; and +soon after, when something like a movement could be discerned in +their ranks, the sky grew suddenly dark, and the most tremendous +hurricane ever remembered by the oldest inhabitant in the place +came on. Of the prodigious force of the wind it is impossible +for one who was not an eye-witness to its effects to form a +conception. Roofs of houses were torn off by it, and whirled +into the air like sheets of paper; whilst the rain which +accompanied it resembled the rushing of a mighty cataract rather +than the dropping of a shower. The darkness was as great as if +the sun had long set, and the last remains of twilight had come +on, occasionally relieved by flashes of vivid lightning streaming +through it; which, together with the noise of the wind and the +thunder, the crash of falling buildings, and the tearing of roofs +as they were stript from the walls, produced the most appalling +effect I ever have, and probably ever shall, witness. The storm +lasted for nearly two hours without intermission, during which +time many of the houses spared by us were blown down, and thirty +of our men, besides several of the inhabitants, buried beneath +their ruins. Our column was as completely dispersed as if it had +received a total defeat; some of the men flying for shelter +behind walls and buildings, and others falling flat upon the +ground, to prevent themselves from being carried away by the +tempest; nay, such was the violence of the wind, that two pieces +of light cannon, which stood upon the eminence, were fairly +lifted from the ground, and borne several yards to the rear. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + +WHEN the hurricane had blown over, the camp of the Americans +appeared to be in as great a state of confusion as our own; nor +could either party recover themselves sufficiently during the +rest of the day to try the fortune of a battle. Of this General +Ross did not fail to take advantage. He had already attained all +that he could hope, and perhaps more than he originally expected +to attain; consequently, to risk another action would only be to +spill blood for no purpose. Whatever might be the issue of the +contest, he could derive from it no advantage. If he were +victorious, it would not do away with the necessity which existed +of evacuating Washington; if defeated, his ruin was certain. To +avoid fighting was therefore his object, and perhaps he owed its +accomplishment to the fortunate occurrence of the storm. Be +that, however, as it may, a retreat was resolved upon; and we now +only waited for night, to put the resolution into practice. + +There was, however, one difficulty to be surmounted in this +proceeding. Of the wounded, many were so ill as to preclude all +possibility of their removal, and to leave them in the hands of +an enemy whom we had beaten was rather a mortifying +anticipation. But for this there was no help; and it now only +remained to make the best arrangements for their comfort, and to +secure for them, as far as could be done, civil treatment from +the Americans. + +It chanced that, among other prisoners taken at Bladensburg, was +Commodore Barney, an American officer of much gallantry and high +sense of honour. Being himself wounded, he was the more likely +to feel for those who were in a similar condition, and having +received the kindest treatment from our medical attendants, as +long as he continued under their hands, he became, without +solicitation, the friend of his fellow-sufferers. To him, as +well as to the other prisoners, was given his parole, and to his +care were our wounded, in a peculiar manner, intrusted,--a trust +which he received with the utmost willingness, and discharged +with the most praiseworthy exactness. Among other stipulations, +it was agreed that such of our people as were left behind should +be considered as prisoners of war, and should be restored to us +as soon as they were able to travel; and that, as soon as they +reached the ships, the Commodore and his countrymen would, in +exchange, be released from their engagements. + +As soon as these arrangements were completed, and darkness had +come on, the third brigade, which was posted in the rear of our +army, began to withdraw. Then followed the guns, afterwards the +second, and last of all the light brigade, exactly reversing the +order which had been maintained during the advance. Instead of an +advanced guard, this last now furnished a party to cover the +retreat, and the whole procession was closed by the mounted +drivers. + +It being a matter of great importance to deceive the enemy and to +prevent pursuit, the rear of the column did not quit its ground +upon the Capitol till a late hour. During the day an order had +been issued that none of the inhabitants should be seen in the +streets after eight o'clock; and as fear renders most men +obedient, the order was punctually attended to. All the horses +belonging to different officers were removed to drag the guns, no +one being allowed to ride, lest a neigh, or even the trampling of +hoofs, should excite suspicion. The fires were trimmed, and made +to blaze brightly; fuel enough was left to keep them so for some +hours; and finally, about half-past nine o'clock the troops +formed in marching order, and moved off in the most profound +silence. Not a word was spoken, nor a single individual +permitted to step one inch out of his place, by which means they +passed along the streets perfectly unnoticed, and cleared the +town without any alarm being given. Our pace, it will be +imagined, was none of the most tardy, consequently it was not +long before we reached the ground which had been occupied by the +other brigades. Here we found a second line of fires blazing in +the same manner as those deserted by ourselves; and the same +precautions in every respect adopted, to induce a belief that our +army was still quiet.--Beyond these, again, we found two or three +solitary fires, placed in such order as to resemble those of a +chain of piquets. In a word, the deception was so well managed, +that even we ourselves were at first doubtful whether the rest of +the troops had fallen back. + +When we reached the ground where yesterday's battle had been +fought, the moon rose, and exhibited a spectacle by no means +enlivening.--The dead were still unburied, and lay about in every +direction completely naked. They had been stripped even of their +shirts, and having been exposed in this state to the violent rain +in the morning, they appeared to be bleached to a most unnatural +degree of whiteness. The heat and rain together had likewise +affected them in a different manner; and the smell which rose +upon the night air was horrible. + +There is something in such a scene as this extremely humbling, +and repugnant to the feelings of human nature. During the +agitation of a battle, it is nothing to see men fall in hundreds +by your side. You may look at them, perhaps, for an instant, but +you do so almost without being yourself aware of it, so +completely are your thoughts carried away by the excitation of +the moment and the shouts of your companions.--But when you come +to view the dead in an hour of calmness, stripped as they +generally are, you cannot help remembering how frail may have +been the covering which saved yourself from being the loathsome +thing on which you are now gazing.--For myself, I confess that +these reflections rose within my mind on the present occasion; +and if any one should say that, similarly situated, they would not +rise in his, I should give him no credit for a superior degree of +courage, though I might be inclined to despise him for his want +of the common feelings of a reasonable being. + +BLADENSBURG. + +In Bladensburg the brigade halted for an hour, while those men +who had thrown away their knapsacks endeavoured to recover them. +During this interval I strolled up to a house which had been +converted into an hospital, and paid a hasty visit to the +wounded. I found them in great pain, and some of them deeply +affected at the thought of being abandoned by their comrades, and +left to the mercy of their enemies. Yet, in their apprehension +of evil treatment from the Americans, the event proved that they +had done injustice to that people; who were found to possess at +least one generous trait in their character, namely, that of +behaving kindly and attentively to their prisoners. + +As soon as the stragglers had returned to their ranks, we again +moved on, continuing to march without once stopping to rest +during the whole of the night. Of the fatigue of a night march +none but those who have experienced it can form the smallest +conception. Oppressed with the most intolerable drowsiness, we +were absolutely dozing upon our legs; and if any check at the +head of the column caused a momentary delay, the road was +instantly covered with men fast asleep. It is generally +acknowledged that no inclination is so difficult to resist as the +inclination to sleep; but when you are compelled not only to bear +up against that, but to struggle also with weariness, and to walk +at the same time, it is scarcely possible to hold out long. By +seven o'clock in the morning, it was found absolutely necessary +to pause, because numbers had already fallen behind, and numbers +more were ready to follow their example; when throwing ourselves +upon the ground, almost in the same order in which we had +marched, in less than five minutes there was not a single +unclosed eye throughout the whole brigade. Piquets were of +course stationed, and sentinels placed, to whom no rest was +granted, but, except these, the entire army resembled a heap of +dead bodies on a field of battle, rather than living men. + +ARLBOROUGH + +In this situation we remained till noon, when we were again +roused to continue the retreat. Though the sun was oppressively +powerful, we moved on without resting till dark, when having +arrived at our old position near Marlborough, we halted for the +night. During this day's march we were joined by numbers of +negro slaves, who implored us to take them along with us, +offering to serve either as soldiers or sailors, if we would but +give them their liberty; but as General Ross persisted in +protecting private property of every description, few of them +were fortunate enough to obtain their wishes. + +We had now proceeded a distance of thirty-five miles, and began +to consider ourselves beyond the danger of pursuit. The +remainder of the retreat was accordingly conducted with more +leisure; our next march carrying us no farther than to +Nottingham, where we remained during an entire day, for the +purpose of resting the troops. It cannot, however, be said that +this resting-time was spent in idleness. A gun-brig, with a +number of ships' launches and long-boats, had made their way up +the stream, and were at anchor opposite to the town. On board +the former were carried such of the wounded as had been able to +travel, whilst the latter were loaded with flour and tobacco, the +only spoil which we found it practicable to bring off. + +Whilst the infantry were thus employed, the cavalry was sent back +as far as Marlborough, to discover whether there were any +American forces in pursuit; and it was well for the few +stragglers who had been left behind that this recognizance was +made. Though there appeared to be no disposition on the part of +the American General to follow our steps and to harass the +retreat, the inhabitants of that village, at the instigation of a +medical practitioner called Bain, bad risen in arms as soon as we +departed; and falling upon such individuals as strayed from the +column, put some of them to death, and made others prisoners. A +soldier whom they had taken, and who had escaped, gave +information of these proceedings to the troopers, just as they +were about to return to head-quarters; upon which they +immediately wheeled about, and galloping into the village, pulled +the doctor out of his bed (for it was early in the morning), +compelled him, by a threat of instant death, to liberate his +prisoners; and mounting him before one of the party, brought him +in triumph to the camp. + +ST. BENEDICT'S. + +The wounded, the artillery, and plunder, being all embarked on +the 28th, at daybreak on the 29th we took the direction of +St. Benedict's, where we arrived, without any adventure, at +a late hour in the evening. Here we again occupied the ground of +which we had taken possession on first landing, passing the night +in perfect quiet; and next day, the boats of the fleet being +ready to receive us, the regiments, one by one, marched down to +the beach. We found the shore covered with sailors from the +different ships of war, who welcomed our arrival with loud +cheers; and having contrived to bring up a larger flotilla than +had been employed in the disembarkation, they removed us within a +few hours, and without the occurrence of any accident, to our +respective vessels. + +Such is a plain impartial account of the inroad upon Washington, +an affair than which the whole war produced none more brilliant +or more daring. In whatever light we may regard it, whether we +look to the amount of difficulties which it behoved him to +overcome, the inadequacy of the force which he commanded, or the +distance which he was called upon to march, in the midst of a +hostile population, and through deep and trackless forests, we +cannot deny to General Ross the praise which is his due, of +having planned and successfully accomplished an expedition which +none but a sagacious mind could have devised, and none but a +gallant spirit carried into execution. Among the many important +transactions which then occupied the public attention, the +campaign at Washington was, I believe, but little spoken of; and +even now, it is overwhelmed in the recollections of the +all-engrossing Waterloo; but the time will probably come, when he +who at the head of four thousand men penetrated upwards of sixty +miles into an enemy's country; overthrew an army more than double +his own in point of numbers; took possession of the capital of a +great nation, and having held it as long as it suited his own +purposes to hold it, returned again in triumph to his fleet, will +be ranked, as he deserves to be ranked, among the number of those +who have most successfully contributed to elevate Great Britain +to the height of military glory on which she now stands. + +It has been said that the entire merit of this brilliant +expedition is due, not so much to the brave man who conducted it, +as to Sir George Cockburn, at whose suggestion it was undertaken. +To the great gallantry and high talents of Sir George Cockburn no +one who served within the compass of the Bay of Chesapeake will +refuse to bear testimony, nor is it improbable that in +attributing to him the original, design of laying Washington +itself under contribution, common report speaks truly. But with +whomsoever the idea first originated, to General Boss belongs the +undivided of having, carried it into effect. From Sir George +Oockburn, and indeed from the whole fleet, the army received +every assistance which it was in the power of the the fleet to +bestow; but had no Ross been at the head of the land forces, the +capital of the United States would have suffered no insult. I +have ventured to make these remarks, not with any design of +taking away, in the slightest degree, from the well-earned +reputation of the living; but merely as an act of justice towards +the memory of the gallant dead, whose services have hardly +received all the notice, either from the Government or the +country, which they deserved. + +Of the degree of military sagacity exhibited on both sides, +during the progress of hostilities, it scarcely becomes me to +speak. Perhaps our leader delayed something too long in making, +up his mind as to the ultimate end to be pursued, after the troop +had penetrated so far into the interior as Marlborough. Had he +pushed on at once, it is barely possible that Washington might +have fallen at a less expense of human life than actually +occurred. Perhaps, too, he commenced she attack at Bladensburg +with a degree of precipitancy which hindered him from, taking +advantage of an open ford, and compelled him to expose his troops +to the fire of the enemy's artillery whilst crossing a narrow +bridge in a single column. But these errors, if errors they may +be termed, were amply compensated by the perfect success of his +operations; whilst in every other particular his conduct was +beyond the reach of censure. In his choice of ground for +halting, in the order both of his advance and retreat, and in +the rapidity of his movements as soon as his plans had been +arranged, General Ross exhibited himself in the light of an able +and diligent commander. No man could possess, more than he a +soldier's eye in examining the face of a country; and in what +little manoeuvring the circumstances permitted, he displayed the +proficiency of one well practised in the arts of campaigning. It +will be recollected, that on the 23rd, the day previous to the +battle, we fell in with a strong body of the enemy, to deceive +whom we wheeled off from the main road, and took the direction of +Alexandria. The plan was attended by the most perfect success; +the party deceived, being in fact the advanced guard of the main +army. Thinking that Alexandria, and not Washington, was +threatened, the American General abandoned a strong position, +which he had seized on the main road, harassed his troops by +a needless march towards that town; and discovered his mistake +only time enough to occupy the heights of Bladensburg a very few +minutes before we came in sight. + +With respect to the Americans, again, criticism necessarily +degenerates into unqualified censure. From the beginning to the +end of the affair, they acted in no one instance like prudent or +sagacious men. In the first place, they ought on no account to +have risked a general action in an open country, however strong +and steep; and, secondly, they deserved to suffer much more +severely than they did suffer, for permitting an enemy's army to +penetrate beyond Nottingham. In allowing us to land without +opposition, they were perhaps guilty of no great mistake; but +having done so, instead of concentrating their forces in one +place, they ought to have harassed us with continual skirmishing; +felled trees on each side, and thrown them across the road; dug +deep ditches at certain intervals; in a word, it was their wisdom +to adopt the mode of warfare to which their own habits, as, well +as the nature of their country, invited them. + +In America, every man is a marksman from his very boyhood, and +every man serves in the militia; but to bring an army of raw +militia-men, however excellent they might be as marksmen, into a +fair field against regular troops, could end in nothing but +defeat. When two lines oppose each other, very little depends +upon the accuracy with which individuals take aim. It is then +that the habit of acting in concert, the confidence which each +man feels in his a companions, and the rapidity and good order in +which different movements can be executed, are alone of real +service. But put these raw militia-men into thick woods, and +send your regular troops to drive them out, and you will +immediately lose all the advantages of discipline, and reduce +your battle to so many single combats. + +Here, therefore, lay their principal error: had they left all +clear, and Permitted us to advance as far as Nottingham, then +broken up the roads, and covered them with trees, it would have +been impossible for us to go a step beyond. As soon as this was +effected, they might have skirmished with us in front, and kept +our attention alive with part of their troops, till the rest, +acquainted as they doubtless were with every inch of the country, +had got into our rear, and, by a similar mode of proceeding, cut +off our retreat. Thus we should have been taken in a snare, from +which it would have been no easy task to extricate ourselves, and +might, perhaps, have been obliged in the end to surrender at +discretion. + +But so obvious and so natural a plan of defence they chose to +reject ad determining to trust all to the fate of a battle, they +were guilty of a monstrous error again. Bladensburg ought not to +have been left unoccupied. The most open village, if resolutely +defended, will cost many men before it falls; whereas +Bladensburg, being composed of substantial brick houses, might +have been maintained for hours against all our efforts. In the +next place, they displayed great want of military knowledge in +the disposition of both their infantry and artillery. There was +not, in the whole space of their position, a single point where +an enemy would be exposed to a cross fire. The troops were drawn +up in three straight lines, like so many regiments upon a gala +parade; whilst the guns were used as connecting links to a chain, +being posted in the same order, by ones and twos, at every +interval. + +In maintaining themselves, likewise, when attacked, they exhibited +neither skill nor resolution. Of the personal courage of the Americans +there can be no doubt; they are, individually taken, as brave a nation +as any in the world. But they are not soldiers; they have not the +experience nor the habits of soldiers. It was the height of folly, +therefore, to bring them into a situation where nothing except that +experience and those habits will avail; and it is on this account that +I repeat what I have already said, that the capture of Washington was +more owing to the blindness of the Americans themselves than to any +other cause. + + +CHAPTER XII. + +ALEXANDRIA + +WHILST the army was thus actively employed, the fleet did not remain +idle. A squadron of frigates, with two bomb-ships, under the command +of Captain Gordon, of the Sea-horse, penetrated up the Potomac, and +appeared before Alexandria. The whole of the militia of the district +was at this time called away for the defence of the capital, +consequently no place could be less prepared to resist an invader +than that city. A party accordingly landed from the ships without +opposition, and having destroyed the barracks, public works, and all +the cannon which they found on shore, they seized a number of +schooners and other small craft then lying in the harbour, and loading +them with flour and tobacco to a considerable amount, prepared to +rejoin the fleet in the bay. + +But by this time the country was alarmed; a detachment was sent from +the main army, and being joined by the reserve of militia, it was +determined to intercept the squadron on its return. With this view, +several pieces of heavy cannon were mounted upon a steep part of the +bank, where the river, in making an angle, narrows considerably in its +channel. Thither also hastened large bodies of infantry; and before +the frigates had begun to weigh anchor nearly 5000 men were assembled +to prevent their passage. + +Of these preparations Captain Gordon did not long remain ignorant; nor +was he backward in making the best arrangements possible to meet the +danger. By shifting the ballast in each of the vessels entirely to +one side, he caused them to lean in such a manner as that their +artillery could be elevated to a surprising degree, and the shot rise +even to the summit of the hill. The guns were then stuffed, rather +than loaded, with grape and musket-balls; and the ships, taking their +stations according to their draft of water, the lightest keeping +nearest to the enemy's shore, set sail, and, favoured by a leading +breeze, stood leisurely down the river. + +As soon as they arrived within tangible distance, a brisk +cannonade was opened upon them from the heights, and the whole of +the infantry appeared in line along, the brow of the eminence. +Regardless of these formidable salutations, the ships continued +to hold their course without changing their order or returning a +shot, till they reached the base of the hill upon which the +infantry stood, and received a volley of musketry into their +decks. Then, indeed, they answered the fire; and with such +effect, that at the first broadside the enemy's guns were +abandoned, and their infantry took to flight. The Americans had +persuaded themselves that no ship could point her guns so as to +sweep the top of the hill; and under this idea had drawn up their +troops along the ridge, with the intention of overawing the +squadron by a display of their numbers. But in the event they +found themselves mistaken, for so well had Captain Gordon +arranged matters, that not a single shot fell under its mark; and +as the ships' artillery had been loaded for the occasion, a +shower of balls of every size and description came amongst them, +such as it was impossible to withstand. A single broadside was +sufficient to secure the safe passage of his squadron; but with +this Captain Gordon was not contented. Seeing the enemy driven +from their cannon, he immediately landed his marines, spiked the +guns, and blew up the expense magazines; when, having received +them all safely on board again, he continued his voyage, and +regained the Chesapeake without further molestation. + +Nor was this the only operation in which the navy were employed. +Cruising about in every direction, they threatened the whole line +of coast, from the entrance to the very bend of the bay; and thus +kept the Americans in a constant state of alarm. Whenever a +favourable opportunity presented itself, parties landed, +plundered or destroyed the Government stores, laid towns and +districts under contribution, and brought off all the shipping +which could be reached. In a word, the hostilities carried on in +the Chesapeake resembled the expeditions of the ancient Danes +against Great Britain, rather than a modern war between civilized +nations. But these hasty excursions, though generally +successful, were not always performed without loss to the +invaders. Many men and some officers were killed and wounded, +among whom was Captain Sir Peter Parker, of the Menelaus frigate, +an officer distinguished for his gallantry and knowledge of naval +tactics. Having learnt that an encampment of 300 men and six +pieces of cannon had been formed, at the distance of a few miles +from the banks of the Potomac, and about nine leagues below +Alexandria, he determined, with part of his ship's crew, to +surprise it, and to capture the guns. Running his frigate with +this view up the river, he cast anchor opposite to the place +where the American forces lay; and leaving on board only a +sufficient number of sailors to manage the ship, and to guard +against surprise, with the rest, amounting to 200 seamen and +marines, he landed, and marched rapidly towards the enemy's camp. +But intelligence of his proceedings had already reached them; +patrols of horse hovering continually along the coast for the +purpose of watching the motions of our fleet. When, therefore, +he arrived at the point of destination, he found the bivouac +deserted, and the rear-guard in full retreat. With these a +little skirmishing ensued, and he received a rifle-ball in the +thigh. Not suspecting that the wound was dangerous, he continued +to push forward, till he fell exhausted from loss of blood; when, +on examining the hurt, it was found that the femoral artery had +been cut; and before any proper assistance could be afforded, he +literally bled to death. Seeing their leader killed, and the +enemy retiring, apparently with the design of drawing them away +from the coast, the sailors now halted; and taking up their dead +commander, returned to the river without being able to effect +anything which might, in any degree, console them for their loss. + +THE PATUXENT. + +In the meantime the army continued, for some days, quietly on +board the ships in the Patuxent. The wounded whose cases +appeared most desperate were removed to vessels fitted up for +their reception, and sailed, some for Halifax, and others for +England. The dispatches were likewise made out and sent off in +the Iphigenia, whilst a sort of breathing-time was given to those +who had been of late so actively employed. Whilst this sabbath +continued, I amused myself by landing; and under the pretext of +shooting, strolled sometimes farther up the country than prudence +exactly warranted. The houses and villas, upon the immediate +banks of the river, I found universally deserted, and thoroughly +plundered. The corn, however, was uninjured; and even flocks of +sheep were seen grazing within a short distance of the water, +protected only by negro slaves. Of these none were taken without +an equivalent being as faithfully paid as if they had been sold +in the market-place of New York; a circumstance which favoured +the belief that the houses had been ransacked, not by the British +troops, but by the inhabitants themselves. Whether it was really +so or not I cannot say, but this I know, that from the time of +our arrival in the Chesapeake, all acts of individual plunder or +violence were strictly prohibited, and severely punished. + +But this appearance of ruin and desertion extended not more than +a mile or two from the coast. Beyond that, I found the cottages +occupied by their owners, and everything remaining as if no enemy +were within a hundred miles. The young men, indeed, were +generally absent, because every man fit to bear arms was now +serving with the army; but the old men and the women seemed to +live as comfortably as if the most profound peace had reigned +throughout the State. Nor did I find them altogether so hostile +to our interest as I had expected. They professed to be +Federalists; and though they regretted the events of the war, +they blamed their own rulers for its commencement. Tempted by +this show of quietness, I one day continued my walk to a greater +distance from the fleet than I had yet ventured to do. My +servant was with me, but had no arms, and I was armed only with a +double-barrelled fowling-piece. Having wearied myself with +looking for game, and penetrated beyond my former landmarks, I +came suddenly upon a small hamlet, occupying a piece of cleared +ground in the very heart of a thick wood. With this, to confess +the truth, I was by no means delighted, more especially as I +perceived two stout-looking men sitting at the door of one of the +cottages. To retire unobserved was, however, impossible, because +the rustling which I had made among the trees attracted their +attention, and they saw me; probably, before I had seen them. +Perceiving that their eyes were fixed upon me, I determined to +put a bold face upon the matter; and calling aloud, as if to a +party to halt, I advanced, with my servant, towards them. They +were dressed in sailors' jackets and trowsers, and rose on my +approach, taking off their hats with much civility. On joining +them, I demanded to be informed whether they were not Englishmen, +and deserters from the fleet, stating that I was in search of two +persons very much answering their description. They assured me +that they were Americans, and no deserters, begging that I would +not take them away; a request to which, after some time, I +assented. They then conducted me into the house, where I found +an old man and three women, who entertained me with bread, +cheese, and new milk. While I was sitting here, a third youth, +in the dress of a labourer, entered, and whispered to one of the +sailors, who immediately rose to go out, but I commanded him to +sit still, declaring that I was not satisfied, and should +certainly arrest him if he attempted to escape. The man sat down +sulkily; and the young labourer coming forward, begged permission +to examine my gun. This was a request which I did not much +relish, and with which I, of course, refused to comply; telling +the fellow that it was loaded, and that I was unwilling to trust +it out of my own band, on account of a weakness in one of the +locks. + +I had now kept up appearances as long as they could be kept up, +and therefore rose to withdraw; a measure to which I was +additionally induced by the appearance of two other countrymen at +the opposite end of the hamlet. I therefore told the sailors +that, if they would pledge themselves to remain quietly at home, +without joining the American army, I would not molest them; +warning them, at the same time, not to venture beyond the +village, lest they should fall into the hands of other parties, +who were also in search of deserters. The promise they gave, but +not with much alacrity, when I rose, and keeping my eye fixed +upon them, and my gun ready cocked in my hand, walked out, +followed by my servant. They conducted us to the door, and stood +staring after us till we got to the edge of the wood; when I +observed them moving towards their countrymen, who also gazed +upon us, without either advancing or flying. The reader will +readily believe, that as soon as we found ourselves concealed by +the trees, we lost no time in endeavouring to discover the direct +way towards the shipping; but plunging into the thickets, ran +with all speed, without thinking of aught except an immediate +escape from pursuit. Whether the Americans did attempt to +follow, or not, I cannot tell. If they did, they took a wrong +direction, for in something more than an hour I found myself at +the edge of the river, a little way above the shipping, and +returned safely on board, fully resolved not again, to expose +myself to such risks, without necessity. + +THE PATAPSCO. + +In this manner the time was spent till daybreak on the 6th of +September, when the whole fleet got under weigh, and stood +towards the Chesapeake. The wind was fair, and we speedily +cleared the river; but instead of standing up the bay, as we had +expected, we ran down a few miles below the mouth of the +Patuxent, and there anchored. A signal was then made by +telegraph for all ships to send in a return of the number of +seamen whom, in addition to marines, they could land with +small-arms. Every ship's crew was accordingly mustered, and it +was found that, besides the numbers necessary for conveying +stores and dragging guns, one thousand sailors could be spared +from the fleet. Thus, in spite of our loss at Bladensburg, we +were enabled on our next debarkation to bring into the field +about five thousand fighting men. + +Next morning we again weighed, and directed our course towards the +Potomac. We entered this river soon after midday, and continued to +stem the stream during the night, and till dusk on the following +evening, when we again brought up. Here we were joined by Admiral +Cockburn, who had quitted the anchorage some days before the rest of +the fleet, with a large flotilla of prizes and small craft; and +having on the 9th once more set sail, and steered for a few hours in +the direction of Alexandria, we suddenly put about, and, favoured by a +fresh breeze, ran down to the bay, turning our heads upwards towards +the Patapsco. Baltimore, it was now understood, was the point of +attack; and towards the river upon which that town is built we +hastened under a heavy press of sail. + +The object of this manoeuvring was evidently to deceive the +enemy, and by keeping him in suspense as to the place threatened, +to prevent his concentrating his forces, or throwing up works for +its defence. But in the attainment of our object, the event +proved that we were but partially successful. Certain it is, +however, that the utmost consternation prevailed in every town or +village opposite to which we made our appearance. In passing +Anapolis, a considerable town built upon the bay, and possessing +a tolerable harbour, we stood in so close as to discern the +inhabitants flying from their houses; carts and waggons loaded +with furniture hurrying along the roads, and horsemen galloping +along the shore, as if watching the fearful moment when the boats +should be hoisted out, and the troops quit the vessels. Wherever +a lighthouse or signal station was erected, alarm-guns were fired +and beacons lighted. In a word, all the horrors of doubt and +apprehension seemed to oppress the inhabitants of this devoted +district. + +The fair wind continuing to blow without interruption, on the +11th we came in sight of the projecting headland, where it was +designed to disembark the troops. It was a promontory washed by +the Patapsco on one side, and a curvature of the bay itself on +the other. It was determined to land here, rather than to ascend +the river, because the Patapsco, though broad, is far from deep. +It is, in fact, too shallow to admit a line-of-battle ship; and, +as no one could guess what impediments might be thrown in the way +to obstruct the navigation, prudence forbade that five thousand +men should be intrusted to the convoy of the smaller vessels +alone. Besides, the distance from the point to Baltimore did not +exceed fourteen or fifteen miles, a space which might easily be +traversed in a day. + +But while the land forces moved in this direction upon Baltimore, it +was resolved that the frigates and bomb-ships should endeavour to +force their way through every obstacle, and to obtain possession of +the navigation of the river, so as, if possible, to co-operate with +the army by bombarding the place from the water. A frigate was +accordingly dispatched to try the depth, and to take soundings of the +channel, whilst the remainder of the fleet came to an anchor off the +point. In the meantime all was again bustle and preparation on board +the troop-ships and transports. Three days' provisions were cooked, as +before, and given to the men; and as we were now to carry everything +by a coup-de-main, twenty rounds of ammunition were added to the sixty +with which soldiers are usually loaded; whilst a smaller quantity of +other baggage was directed to be taken on shore. A blanket, with a +spare shirt and pair of shoes, was considered enough for each man on +an expedition of so rapid a nature; whilst brushes and other articles +of that description were divided between comrades, one carrying what +would suffice for both. Thus the additional load of twenty cartridges +was more than counterbalanced by the clothing and necessaries left +behind. + +It was dusk when we reached the anchorage, consequently no +landing could take place before the morrow. But as the boats +were ordered to be in readiness at dawn, every man slept in his +clothes, that he might be prepared to start at a moment's +warning. There was something in this state of preparation at +once solemn and exciting. That we should obtain possession of a +place so important as Baltimore without fighting was not to be +expected; and, therefore, this arming and this bustle seemed in +fact to be the prelude to a battle. But no man of the smallest +reflection can look forward to the chance of a sudden and violent +death without experiencing sensations very different from those +which he experiences under any other circumstances. When the +battle has fairly begun, I may say with truth that the feelings +of those engaged are delightful; because they are in fact so many +gamblers playing for the highest stake that can be offered. But +the stir and noise of equipping, and then the calmness and +stillness of expectation, these are the things which force a man +to think. On the other hand, the warlike appearance of +everything about you, the careless faces and rude jokes of the +private soldiers, and something within yourself, which I can +compare to nothing more seemly than the mirth which criminals are +said sometimes to experience and to express previous to their +execution; all these combine to give you a degree of false +hilarity, I had almost said painful from its very excess. It is +an agitation of the nerves, such as we may suppose madmen feel, +which you are inclined to wish removed, though you are not +unwilling to admit that it is agreeable. + +And yet, as if in mockery of these deadly preparations, I do not +recollect to have seen a more heavenly night than the present. +The heat of the day was past, a full clear moon shone brightly in +a sky where not a cloud could be discerned, and a heavy dew +falling appeared to refresh the earth, which had been parched and +burnt up by the sun. We lay at this time within two miles of the +shore, consequently every object there was distinctly visible. +Around us were moored numerous ships, which, breaking the tide as +it flowed gently onwards, produced a ceaseless murmur like the +gushing of a mountain stream. The voices of the sentinels too, +as they relieved one another on the decks, and the occasional +splash of oars, as a solitary boat rowed backwards and forwards +to the Admiral's ship for orders, sounded peculiarly musical in +the perfect stillness of a calm night. Though I am far from +giving the preference, in all respects, to a sailor's life, it +must nevertheless be confessed that it has in it many moments of +exquisite enjoyment, and the present seemed to me to be of the +number. + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MARCH + +BUT the stillness of night soon passed away, and at three o'clock in +the morning every ship in the fleet began to lower her boats, and the +soldiers were roused from their slumbers. The same precautions which +had been formerly used to cover the landing were again adopted, +several gun-brigs laying themselves within cable's length of the +beach, and the leading boats in every division being armed with +carronades, loaded and ready for action. But, as had been the case at +St. Benedict's, they were unnecessary, for the troops reached the +shore without opposition, and leisurely formed in an open field close +to the river. + +It was seven o'clock before the whole army was disembarked and in +order for marching. The same arrangements which had been made on the +late expedition were, as far as circumstances would permit, again +adopted on this. The light brigade, now commanded by Major Jones of +the 4th regiment, led the advance; then followed the artillery, +amounting to six field-pieces and two howitzers, all of them drawn by +horses; next came the second brigade, then the sailors, and last of +all the third brigade. Flank patrols and reconnoitring parties were +likewise sent out; in short, the same admirable dispositions regulated +the present march which had governed our march to Washington. + +The column being put in motion, advanced, without the occurrence +of any incident deserving of notice, for about an hour, when it +arrived at a piece of ground which appeared as if it had been +lately in possession of the enemy. It was a narrow neck of land, +confined between the river on one side, and the head of a creek +on the other, measuring, perhaps, a mile across. From the river +to the creek a breastwork had been begun, and was partly +completed. In front of it there were lines drawn, apparently for +the purpose of marking out the width of a ditch; in some places +the ditch itself was dug, and the commencement of what resembled +an enfilading battery in the centre, showed that a considerable +degree of science had been displayed in the choice of this spot +as a military position. And, in truth, it was altogether such a +position as, if completed, might have been maintained by a +determined force against very superior numbers. Both flanks were +completely protected, not only by water, but by thick wood, while +a gentle eminence in the very middle of the line offered the most +desirable situation for the projecting battery which had been +begun; because a fire from it would have swept the whole, both to +the right and left. In its present state, however, it was +untenable, unless by a force as able to attack as to defend; +consequently the Americans, who acted solely on the defensive, +did wisely in choosing another. + +But the aspect of the ground was such as led us to conclude that +the enemy could not be very distant. The troops were accordingly +halted, that the rear might be well up, and the men fresh and +ready for action. Whilst this was done part of the flank patrol +came in, bringing with them three light-horse men, as prisoners. +These were young gentlemen belonging to a corps of volunteers, +furnished by the town of Baltimore, who had been sent out to +watch our motions, and convey intelligence to the American +General. Being but little accustomed to such service, they had +suffered themselves to be surprised; and, instead of reporting to +their own leader as to the number and dispositions of their +adversaries, they were now catechized by General Ross respecting +the strength and preparations of their friends. From them we +learned that a force of no less than twenty thousand men was +embodied for the defence of Baltimore; but as the accounts of +prisoners are generally over-rated, we took it for granted that +they made their report only to intimidate. + +ATTACK + + +Having rested for the space of an hour, we again moved forward, +but had not proceeded above a mile when a sharp fire of musketry +was heard in front, and shortly afterwards a mounted officer came +galloping to the rear, who desired us to quicken our pace, for +that the advanced guard was engaged. At this intelligence the +ranks were closed, and the troops advanced at a brisk rate, and +in profound silence. The firing still continued, though, from +its running and irregular sound, it promised little else than a +skirmish; but whether it was kept up by detached parties alone, +or by the outposts of a regular army, we could not tell; because, +from the quantity of wood with which the country abounded, and +the total absence of all hills or eminences, it was impossible to +discern what was going on at the distance of half a mile from the +spot where we stood. + +We were already drawing near to the scene of action, when another +officer came at full speed towards us, with horror and dismay in +his countenance, and calling loudly for a surgeon. Every man +felt within himself that all was not right, though none was +willing to believe the whispers of his own terror. But what at +first we would not guess at, because we dreaded it so much, was +soon realized; for the aide-de-camp had scarcely passed, when the +General's horse, without its rider, and with the saddle and +housings stained with blood, came plunging onwards. Nor was much +time given for fearful surmise as to the extent of our +misfortune. In a few moments we reached the ground where the +skirmishing had taken place, and beheld General Ross laid by the +side of the road, under a canopy of blankets, and apparently in +the agonies of death. As soon as the firing began, he had ridden +to the front, that he might ascertain from whence it originated, +and, mingling with the skirmishers, was shot in the side by a +rifleman. The wound was mortal: he fell into the arms of his +aide-de-camp, and lived only long enough to name his wife, and to +commend his family to the protection of his country. He was +removed towards the fleet, but expired before his bearers could +reach the boats. + +It is impossible to conceive the effect which this melancholy +spectacle produced throughout the army. By the courteousness and +condescension of his manners, General Ross had secured the +absolute love of all who served under him, from the highest to +the lowest; and his success on a former occasion, as well as his +judicious arrangements on the present, had inspired every one +with the most perfect confidence in his abilities. His very +error, if error it may be called, in so young a leader--I mean +that diffidence in himself which had occasioned some loss of time +on the march to Washington, appeared now to have left him. His +movements were at once rapid and cautious; nay, his very +countenance indicated a fixed determination, and a perfect +security of success. All eyes were turned upon him as we passed, +and a sort of involuntary groan ran from rank to rank, from the +front to the rear of the column. + +By the fall of our gallant leader, the command now devolved upon +Colonel Brook, of the 44th regiment, an officer of decided +personal courage, but, perhaps, better calculated to lead a +battalion than to guide an army. Being informed of his +unexpected and undesired elevation, he came to the front, and +under him we continued to move on; sorrowful, indeed, but not +dejected. The skirmishing had now ceased, for the American +riflemen were driven in; and in a few minutes we found ourselves +opposite to a considerable force, drawn up with some skill, and +occupying a strong position. Judging from appearances, I should +say that the corps now opposed to us amounted to six or seven +thousand men. They covered a neck of land, very much resembling +that which we had passed; having both flanks defended by little +inland lakes; the whole of their position was well wooded, and in +front of their line was a range of high palings, similar to those +which intersected the field of Bladensburg. About the centre, +though some way advanced, was a farm-house, with its outbuildings +and stack-yard; and near to the right ran the main road. Their +artillery, which could not greatly exceed our own, either in +weight of metal or number of guns, was scattered along the line +of infantry in nearly the same order as had been preserved at +Bladensburg, and their reserve was partly seen, and partly hid by +a thick wood. + +The whole of this country is flat and unbroken. About half a +mile in rear of the enemy's position were some heights, but to +occupy these as they should be occupied would have required a +much greater number of men than the American army could muster. +Their General, therefore, exhibited some judgment in his choice +of ground, but, perhaps, he would have exhibited more had he +declined a pitched battle altogether. Yet, to do him justice, I +repeat that the ground was well chosen; for, besides the covering +of wood which he secured for his own people, he took care to +leave open fields in his front; by which means we were of +necessity exposed to a galling fire, as soon as we came within +range. Of one error, however, he was guilty. Either he did not +possess himself of the farm-house at all, or he suffered it to be +taken from him with very little resistance; for on the arrival of +the column at the ground where it was to form, it was in the +occupation of our advanced guard. He was likewise to blame in +not filling the wood upon our left with skirmishers. In short, +he acted unwisely in merely attempting to repel attacks, without +ever dreaming that the most effectual mode of so doing is to turn +the tables, and attack the assailants. + +As our troops came up they filed off to the right and left, and +drew up just within cannon shot in the following order. The +light brigade, consisting, as I have formerly stated, of the 85th +regiment and the light companies of the other corps, in extended +order, threatened the whole front of the American army. The 21st +remained in column upon the road; the 4th moved off to the right, +and advanced through a thicket to turn the enemy's left; and the +44th, the seamen and marines, formed line in rear of the light +brigade. + +While this formation was going on, the artillery being brought +up, opened upon the American army, and a smart cannonade ensued +on both sides. That our guns were well served I myself can bear +witness; for I saw the Shrapnel shells which were thrown from +them strike among the enemy, and make fearful gaps in the line. +Our rockets likewise began to play, one of which falling short, +lighted upon a haystack in the barn-yard belonging to the +farm-house, and immediately set it on fire. The house itself, +the stables, barns, and outhouses, as well as all the other +stacks, one after another caught the flames, and were quickly in +a state of conflagration; and the smoke and blaze which they +emitted, together with the roar of cannon and flashes of the +guns, produced altogether a very fine effect. + +In the meantime the American artillery was not idle. Pushing +forward two light field-pieces upon the road, they opened a +destructive fire of grape upon the 21st regiment, and such of the +sailors as occupied that point. Three other guns were directed +against our artillery, between which and several of our pieces a +sort of duel was maintained; and the rest played without ceasing +upon the 85th and the light companies, who had lain down while +the other regiments took up their ground. Neither was their +infantry altogether quiet. They marched several strong bodies +from the right to the left, and withdrew others from the left to +the right of their line, though for what end this marching and +countermarching was undertaken I am at a loss to conceive. While +thus fluctuating it was curious to observe their dread of every +spot where a cannon-ball had struck. Having seen the shots fall, +I kept my eye upon one or two places, and perceived that each +company as it drew near to those points hung back; and then +assuming as it were a momentary courage, rushed past, leaving a +vacancy between it and the company which next succeeded. + +All this while the whole of our infantry, except the 4th +regiment, lay or stood in anxious expectation of an order to +advance. This, however, was not given till that corps had +reached the thicket through which it was to make its way; when +Colonel Brook, with his staff, having galloped along the line to +see that all was ready, commanded the signal to be made. The +charge was accordingly sounded, and echoed back from every bugle +in the army, when, starting from the ground where they had lain, +the troops moved on in a cool and orderly manner. A dreadful +discharge of grape and canister shot, of old locks, pieces of +broken muskets, and everything which they could cram into their +guns, was now sent forth from the whole of the enemy's artillery, +and some loss was on our side experienced. Regardless of this, +our men went on without either quickening or retarding their +pace, till they came within a hundred yards of the American +line. As yet not a musket had been fired, nor a word spoken on +either side, but the enemy, now raising a shout, fired a volley +from right to left, and then kept up a rapid and ceaseless +discharge of musketry. Nor were our people backward in replying +to these salutes; for giving them back both their shout and their +volley, we pushed on at double-quick, with the intention of +bringing them to the charge. + +The bayonet is a weapon peculiarly British; at least it is a +weapon which in the hands of a British soldier is irresistible. +Though they maintained themselves with great determination, and +stood to receive our fire till scarcely twenty yards divided us, +the Americans would not hazard a charge. On the left, indeed, +where the 21st advanced in column, it was not without much +difficulty and a severe loss that any attempt to charge could be +made; for in that quarter seemed to be the flower of the enemy's +infantry, as well as the main body of their artillery; towards +the right, however, the day was quickly won. The only thing to +be regretted, indeed, was that the attack had not been for some +time longer deferred; because the Americans were broken and fled, +just as the 4th regiment began to show itself upon the brink of +the water which covered their flank; and before a shallow +part could be discovered, and the troops were enabled to pass, +they had time to escape. + +As soon as their left gave way, the whole American army fell into +confusion; nor do I recollect on any occasion to have witnessed a +more complete rout. Infantry, cavalry, and artillery were +huddled together, without the smallest regard to order or +regularity. The sole object of anxiety seemed to be, which +should escape first from the field of battle; insomuch, that +numbers were actually trodden down by their countrymen in the +hurry of the flight. Yet, in spite of the short duration of the +action, which lasted little more than two hours from its first +commencement, the enemy's loss was severe. They stood in some +respects better than at Bladensburg, consequently we were more +mingled with them when they gave way, and were thus enabled to +secure some prisoners, an event which their more immediate flight +had on the other occasion prevented. In the capture of guns, +however, we were not so fortunate. Their pieces being light, and +well supplied with horses, they contrived to carry off all except +two; both of which would have also escaped but for the shooting +of the leaders. + +I have said that the number of killed and wounded in the American +army was very great; in ours, on the other hand, the casualties +were fewer by far than might have been expected. The 21st and +seamen suffered a good deal, the 85th and light companies a +little; but had our gallant General been spared, we should have +pronounced this a glorious, because a comparatively bloodless +day. In the loss of that one man, however, we felt ourselves +more deeply wounded than if the best battalion in the army had +been sacrificed. + +In following up the flying enemy the same obstacles which +presented themselves at Bladensburg again came in the way. The +thick woods quickly screened the fugitives, and as even our +mounted drivers were wanting, their horses having been taken for +the use of the artillery, no effectual pursuit could be +attempted. We accordingly halted upon the field of battle, of +necessity content with the success which we had obtained; and +having collected the stragglers and called in the pursuers, it +was resolved to pass the night in this situation. Fires were +speedily lighted, and the troops distributed in such a manner as +to secure a tolerable position in case of attack; and the wounded +being removed into two or three houses scattered along the +ground, the victors lay down to sleep under the canopy of heaven. + +Having thus given a distinct and connected detail of this affair, +I shall beg leave to finish the present chapter with one or two +anecdotes, which may not be unamusing. It is said that when +Admiral Cockburn, who accompanied the army, and attended General +Ross with the fidelity of an aide-de-camp, was in the wood where +the latter fell, he observed an American rifleman taking +deliberate aim at him from behind a tree. Instead of turning +aside, or discharging a pistol at the fellow, as any other man +would have done, the brave Admiral, doubling his fist, shook it +at his enemy, and cried aloud, "O you d--d Yankee, I'll give it +you!" upon which the man dropped his musket in the greatest +alarm, and took to his heels. + +It is likewise told of an officer of engineers, that having +overtaken an American soldier, and demanded his arms, the fellow +gave him his rifle very readily, but being ordered to resign a +handsome silver-hilted dagger and silver-mounted cartouch-box, +which graced his side, he refused to comply, alleging that they +were private property, and that, by our own proclamations, +private property should be respected. This was an instance of +low cunning which reminded me of my own adventure with the +squirrel-hunters, and which was attended with equal success. + +One other anecdote, of a different nature, and for the truth of +which I can myself answer, may likewise be related. In strolling +over the field of battle, I came unexpectedly upon a wounded +American, who lay among some bushes with his leg broken. I drew +near to offer him assistance, but on seeing me the wretch +screamed out, and appeared in the greatest alarm; nor was it +without some difficulty that I could persuade him e had nothing +to fear. At last, being convinced that I intended him no harm, +the fellow informed me that it was impressed upon the minds of +the American levies that from the British they might expect no +quarter; and that it was consequently their determination to +give no quarter to the British troops. The fellow might belie +his countrymen, and I hope and believe he did, but such was his +report to me. To convince him of the erroneousness of his +notions, I removed him to one of our hospitals, where his leg was +amputated; and he saw himself, as well as many others of his +wounded comrades, treated with the same attention which was +bestowed upon our own soldiers. + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + +AT an early hour on the 13th the troops were roused from their lairs, +and forming upon the ground, waited till daylight should appear. A +heavy rain had come on about midnight, and now fell with so much +violence, that some precautions were necessary, in order to prevent +the firelocks from being rendered useless by wet. Such of the men as +were fortunate enough to possess leathern cases, wrapped them round +the locks of their muskets, whilst the rest held them in the best +manner they could, under their elbows; no man thinking of himself, but +only how he could best keep his arms in a serviceable condition. + +As soon as the first glimmering of dawn could be discerned, we +moved to the road, and took up our wonted order of march; but +before we pushed forward, the troops were desired to lighten +themselves still further, by throwing off their blankets, which +were to be left under a slender guard till their return. This +was accordingly done; and being now unencumbered, except by a +knapsack almost empty, every man felt his spirits heightened in +proportion to the diminution of his load. The grief of soldiers +is seldom of long duration, and though I will not exactly say +that poor Ross was already forgotten, the success of yesterday +had reconciled at least the privates to the guidance of their new +leader; nor was any other issue anticipated than what would have +attended the excursion had he still been its mainspring and +director. + +The country through which we passed resembled, in every +particular, that already described. Wood and cultivation +succeeded each other at intervals, though the former surpassed +the latter in tenfold extent; but instead of deserted villages +and empty houses, which had met us on the way to Washington, we +found most of the inhabitants remaining peaceably in their homes, +and relying upon the assurance of protection given to them in our +proclamations. Nor had they cause to repent of that confidence. +In no instance were they insulted, plundered, or ill-treated; +whereas every house which was abandoned fell a prey to the scouts +and reconnoitring parties. + +But our march to-day was not so rapid as our motions generally +were. The Americans had at last adopted an expedient which, +if carried to its proper length, might have entirely stopped +our progress. In most of the woods they had felled trees, +and thrown them across the road; but as these abattis were +without defenders, we experienced no other inconvenience than +what arose from loss of time; being obliged to halt on all such +occasions till the pioneers had removed the obstacle. So great, +however, was even this hinderance, that we did not come in sight +of the main army of the Americans till evening, although the +distance travelled could not exceed ten miles. + +It now appeared that the corps which we had beaten yesterday was only +a detachment, and not a large one, from the force collected for the +defence of Baltimore; and that the account given by the volunteer +troopers was in every respect correct. Upon a ridge of hills, which +concealed the town itself from observation, stood the grand army, +consisting of twenty thousand men. Not trusting to his superiority in +numbers, their General had there entrenched them in the most +formidable manner, having covered the whole face of the heights with +breastworks, thrown back his left so as to rest it upon a strong fort +erected for the protection of the river, and constructed a chain of +field redoubts which covered his right and commanded the entire +ascent. Along the side of the hill were likewise fleches and other +projecting works, from which a cross fire might be kept up; and there +were mounted throughout this commanding position no less than one +hundred pieces of cannon. + +It would be absurd to suppose that the sight of preparations so +warlike did not in some degree damp the ardour of our leader; at +least it would have been madness to storm such works without +pausing to consider how it might best be attempted. The whole of +the country within cannon-shot was cleared from wood, and laid +out in grass and corn-fields; consequently there was no cover to +shelter an attacking army from any part of the deadly fire which +would be immediately poured upon it. The most prudent plan, +therefore, was to wait till dark; and then, assisted by the +frigates and bombs, which he hoped were by this time ready to +co-operate, to try the fortune of a battle. + +Having resolved thus to act, Colonel Brook halted his army; +and, secured against surprise by a well-connected line of piquets, +the troops were permitted to light fires and to cook their +provisions. But though the rain still fell in torrents, no +shelter could be obtained; and as even their blankets were no +longer at hand, with which to form gipsy-tents, this was the +reverse of an agreeable bivouac to the whole army. + +Darkness had now come on, and as yet no intelligence had +arrived from the shipping. To assail such a position, however, +without the aid of the fleet, was deemed impracticable; at least +our chance of success would be greatly diminished without their +co-operation. As the left of the American army extended to a +fort built upon the very brink of the river, it was clear that +could the ships be brought to bear upon that point, and the fort +be silenced by their fire, that flank of the position would be +turned. This once effected, there would be no difficulty in +pushing a column within their works; and as soldiers entrenched +always place more reliance upon the strength of their +entrenchments than upon their own personal exertions, the very +sight of our people on a level with them would in all probability +decide the contest. At all events, as the column was to advance +under cover of night, it might easily push forward and crown the +hill above the enemy, before any effectual opposition could be +offered; by which means they would be enclosed between two fires, +and lose the advantage which their present elevated situation +bestowed. All, however, depended upon the ability of the fleet +to lend their assistance; for without silencing the fort, this +flank could scarcely be assailed with any chance of success, +and, therefore, the whole plan of operations must be changed. + +SEARCH. + +Having waited till it was considered imprudent to wait longer, +without knowing whether he was to be supported, Colonel Brook +determined, if possible, to open a communication with the fleet. +That the river could not be far off we knew, but how to get to it +without falling in with wandering parties of the enemy was the +difficulty. The thing, however, must be done; and as secrecy, +and not force, was the main object, it was resolved to dispatch +for the purpose a single officer without an escort. On this +service a particular friend of mine chanced to be employed. +Mounting his horse, he proceeded to the right of the army, where, +having delayed a few minutes till the moon rising gave light +enough through the clouds to distinguish objects, he pushed +forward at a venture, in as straight a line as he could guess at. +It was not long before his progress was stopped by a high hedge. +Like knight-errants of old, he then gave himself up to the +guidance of his horse, which taking him towards the rear, soon +brought him into a narrow lane, that appeared to wind in the +direction of the enemy's fort: this lane he determined to follow, +and holding a cocked pistol in his hand, pushed on, not perhaps +entirely comfortable, but desirous at all hazards of executing +his commission. He had not ridden far, when the sound of voices +through the splashing of the rain arrested his attention. +Pulling up, he listened in silence, and soon discovered that they +came from two American soldiers, whether stragglers or sentinels +it was impossible to divine; but whoever they were, they seemed +to be approaching. It now struck him that his safest course +would be to commence the attack, and having therefore waited till +he saw them stop short, as if they had perceived him, he rode +forward, and called out to them to surrender. The fellows turned +and fled, but galloping after them, he overtook one, at whose +head he presented a pistol, and who instantly threw down his +rifle, and yielded himself prisoner; whilst the other, dashing +into a thicket, escaped, probably to tell that he had been +attacked by a whole regiment of British cavalry. Having thus +taken a prisoner, my friend resolved to make him of some use; +with this view he commanded him to lay hold of his thigh, and to +guide him directly to the river, threatening, if he attempted to +mislead or betray him into the hands of the Americans, that he +would instantly blow out his brains. Finding himself completely +in my friend's power, the fellow could not refuse to obey; and +accordingly, the man resting his hand upon the left thigh of the +officer, they proceeded along the lane for some time, till they +came to a part where it branched off in two directions. My +friend here stopped for a moment; and again repeated his threat, +swearing that the instant his conduct became suspicious should be +the last of his life. The soldier assured him that he would keep +his word, and moreover informed him that some of our ships were +almost within gun-shot of the fort; a piece of information which +was quickly confirmed by the sound of firing, and the appearance +of shells in the air. They now struck to the right, and in half +an hour gained the brink of the river: where my friend found a +party just landed from the squadron, and preparing to seek their +way towards the camp. By them he was conducted to the Admiral, +from whom he learnt that no effectual support could be given to +the land force; for such was the shallowness of the river, that +none except the very lightest craft could make their way within +six miles of the town; and even these were stopped by vessels +sunk in the channel, and other artificial bars, barely within a +shell's longest range of the fort. With this unwelcome news he +was accordingly forced to return; and taking his unwilling guide +along with him, he made his way, without any adventure, to our +advanced posts; where, having thanked the fellow for his +fidelity, he rewarded it more effectually by setting him at +liberty. + +Having brought his report to head-quarters, a council of war was +instantly summoned to deliberate upon what was best to be done. +Without the help of the fleet, it was evident that, adopt what +plan of attack we could, our loss must be such as to +counterbalance even success itself; whilst success, under +existing circumstances, was, to say the least of it, doubtful. +And even if we should succeed, what would be gained by it? We +could not remove anything from Baltimore, for want of proper +conveyances. Had the ships been able to reach the town, then, +indeed, the quantity of booty might have repaid the survivors for +their toil, and consoled them for the loss of comrades; but as +the case now stood, we should only fight to give us an +opportunity of reacting /re-enacting?/ the scenes of Washington. +To distress an enemy is, no doubt, desirable, but, in the present +instance, that distress, even if brought upon the Americans, +would cost us dear; whereas, if we failed, it was hardly possible +to avoid destruction. + +MARCH. + +Such was the reasoning which influenced the council of war to +decide that all idea of storming the enemy's lines should be +given up. To draw them from their works would require +manoeuvring, and manoeuvring requires time; but delays were all +in their favour, and could not possibly advantage us. Every hour +brought in reinforcements to their army, whereas ours had no +source from which even to recruit its losses; and it was, +therefore, deemed prudent, since we could not fight at once, +to lose no time in returning to the shipping. + +About three hours after midnight the troops were accordingly +formed upon the road, and began their retreat, leaving the +piquets to deceive the enemy, and to follow, as a rear-guard. +The rain, which had continued with little interruption since the +night before, now ceased, and the moon shone out bright and +clear. We marched along, therefore, not in the same spirits as +if we had been advancing, but feeling no debasement at having +thus relinquished an enterprise so much beyond our strength. + +When the day broke, our piquets, which had withdrawn about an +hour before, rejoined us, and we went on in a body. Marching +over the field where the battle of the 12th had been fought, we +beheld the dead scattered about, and still unburied; but so far +different from those which we had seen at Bladensburg, that they +were not stripped, every man lying as he had fallen. One object, +however, struck me as curious. I saw several men hanging +lifeless among the branches of trees, and learnt that they had +been riflemen, who chose, during the battle, to fix themselves in +these elevated situations, for the combined purposes of securing +a good aim and avoiding danger. Whatever might be their success +in the first of these designs, in the last they failed; for our +men soon discovered them, and, considering the thing as unfair, +refused to give them quarter, and shot them on their perches. + +Here we paused for about an hour, that the soldiers might collect +their blankets and refresh themselves; when we again moved +forward, passing the wood where the gallant Ross was killed. It +was noon, and as yet all had gone on smoothly with out any check +or alarm. So little indeed was pursuit dreamt of, that the +column began to straggle, and to march without much regard to +order; when suddenly the bugle sounded from the rear, and +immediately after some musket shots were heard. In an instant +the men were in their places, and the regiments wheeled into +line, facing towards the enemy. The artillery turned round and +advanced to the front; indeed I have never seen a manoeuvre more +coolly or more steadily performed on a parade in England than +this rally. The alarm, however, turned out to be groundless, +being occasioned only by the sudden appearance of a squadron of +horse, which had been sent out by the American General to track +our steps. These endeavoured to charge the rear-guard, and +succeeded in making two prisoners; but a single Shrapnel checked +their farther advance, and sent them back at full speed to boast +of the brave exploit which they had performed. + +Seeing that no attack was seriously intended, the army broke once +more into the line of march, and proceeded to a favourable piece +of ground, near the uncompleted position which I have already +described, where we passed the night under little tents made with +blankets and ramrods. No alarm occurring, nor any cause of delay +appearing, at daybreak we again got under arms, and pushed on +towards the shipping, which in two hours were distinguishable. + +RE-EMBARKATION. + +The infantry now halted upon a narrow neck of land, while the +artillery was lifted into boats, and conveyed on board the fleet. +As soon as this was done, brigade after brigade fell back to the +water's edge and embarked, till finally all, except the light +troops, were got off. These being left to cover the embarkation, +were extended across the entire space which but a little before +contained the whole army; but as no attempt was made to molest +them, they had only the honour of being the last to quit the +shore. + +Were I to enter into a review of the military proceedings in this +expedition, I should be condemned to repeat, almost word for +word, the remarks which I ventured to make upon the operations +previous to the capture of Washington. On the present occasion, +however, neither hesitation nor precipitancy was displayed by the +British General. He threw his valuable life away, indeed, by +exposing his person unnecessarily in a trifling skirmish; but who +will blame a soldier for excess of courage, or a leader for +excess of alertness? Like other able men, he was unwilling to +trust to the report of his subalterns, when it was in his power +to ascertain what he sought to know by personal observation; and, +like other brave men, he would not be deterred from prosecuting +his design by the apprehension of danger. In the plan of the +expedition here, he displayed both skill and resolution. +Instead of wasting time by an attempt to ascend the river, he +chose to land where he was least likely to meet with immediate +opposition; and such was the celerity of his motions, that, had +he lived, the chances are that we should have fought two battles +in one day. But of what a man might have done, I have nothing to +say; let me rather do justice to his successor and his advisers. +Of these latter, there is one whom it would be improper not to +mention by name--I mean Lieutenant Evans, Deputy-Assistant +Quartermaster-General. The whole arrangement of our troops in +order of battle was committed to him; and the judicious method in +which they were drawn up, proved that he was not unworthy of the +trust. With respect to the determination of the council of war, +I choose to be silent. Certain it is, that the number of our +forces would hardly authorise any desperate attempt; yet had the +attempt been made, I have very little doubt that it would have +been made successfully. + +On the part of the Americans, again, the same blunders were +committed which marked their proceedings during the incursion to +Washington, with this exception, that more science was displayed +now than formerly in the distribution of their forces along their +principal position. At Bladensburg, indeed, there existed no +works, and the troops were badly arranged in an open country: +here there were not only fortifications, but fortifications +constructed in a scientific manner, and troops drawn up in such +order, as that, even without their works, many cross fires would +have protected their front. But they neglected numerous +favourable opportunities of harassing both our advance and +retreat. They felled trees, but left no guards to keep them from +being removed, and took no advantage of the delays which their +removal created. They risked a battle with a part of their army, +when there was no necessity for it; in a word, they committed all +those errors which men generally commit who are not soldiers, and +yet love war. + + +CHAPTER XV + + +THE PATUXENT. + +HAVING once more received the troops on board, the fleet remained +quietly at anchor till the 17th, when, at an early hour, we set +sail and stood towards the Patuxent. In this voyage we passed +close to Sent Island, and again threw the inhabitants of Anapolis +into alarm by approaching almost within gun-shot of their town; +but at neither place were hostilities attempted, and on the 19th +we arrived, without any adventure, at our former anchorage in the +river. Here we brought up, and parties were sent on shore to dig +wells in the sand, to which the boats resorted in great numbers +for water. Cattle and sheep were likewise purchased from the +natives; some of the flour which had been captured was converted +into biscuit; and every preparation seemed to be making for a +long voyage. + +To facilitate these operations, the fleet now separated, part +remaining here, and part proceeding under Admiral Malcolm to the +Potomac; whilst Sir Alexander Cochrane, in the Tonnant, with +several frigates and gun-brigs, quitted us altogether, and set +sail, as it was given out, for Halifax. But our situation was by +no means agreeable. The climate of this part of America is, at +certain seasons, far from healthy; and the prevalence of +dysentery through the armament proved that the unhealthy season +had already commenced. Neither did there appear to be any +prospect of further employment. No one talked of a future +enterprise, nor was the slightest rumour circulated as to the +next point of attack. The death of General Ross seemed to have +disorganized the whole plan of proceedings, and the fleet and +army rested idle, like a watch without its main spring. + +Whilst things were in this state, whilst the banks of the rivers +continued in our possession, and the interior was left unmolested +to the Americans, a rash confidence sprang up in the minds of +all, insomuch that parties of pleasure would frequently land +without arms, and spend many hours onshore. On one of these +occasions, several officers from the 85th regiment agreed to pass +a day together at a farm-house, about a quarter of a mile from +the stream; and taking with them ten soldiers, unarmed, to row +the boat, a few sailors, and a young midshipman, not more than +twelve years of age, they proceeded to put their determination +into practice. Leaving the men, under the command of their +youthful pilot, to take care of the boat, the officers went on to +the house; but they had not remained there above an hour, when +they were alarmed by a shout, which sounded as if it came from +the river. Looking, out, they beheld their party surrounded by +seventy or eighty mounted riflemen; the boat dragged upon the +beach, and set on fire. Giving themselves up for lost, they +continued for an instant in a sort of stupor; but the master of +the house, to whom some kindness had been shown by our people, +proved himself grateful, and, letting them out by a back door, +directed them to bide themselves in the wood, whilst he should +endeavour to turn their pursuers on a wrong scent. As they had +nothing to trust to except the honour of this American, it cannot +be supposed that they felt much at ease; but, seeing no better +course before them, they resigned themselves to his guidance, and +plunging into the thicket, concealed themselves as well as they +could among the underwood. In the mean time the American +soldiers, having secured all that were left behind, except the +young midshipman, who fled into the wood in spite of their fire, +divided into two bodies, one of which approached the house, +whilst the other endeavoured to overtake the brave boy. It so +chanced that the party in pursuit passed close to the officers in +concealment, but by the greatest good fortune failed to observe +them. They succeeded, however, in catching a glimpse of the +midshipman, just as he had gained the water's edge, and was +pushing off a light canoe which he had loosened from the stump of +a tree. The barbarians immediately gave chase, firing at the +brave lad, and calling out to surrender; but the gallant youth +paid no attention either to their voices or their bullets. +Launching his little bark, he put to sea with a single paddle, +and, regardless of the showers of balls which fell about him, +returned alone and unhurt to the ship. Whilst one party was thus +employed, the other hastened to the house in full expectation of +capturing the British officers. But their host kept his word +with great fidelity, and, having directed his countrymen towards +another farm-house at some distance from his own, and in an +opposite quarter from the spot where his guests lay, he waited +till they were out of sight, and then joined his new friends in +their lurking-place. Bringing with him such provisions as he +could muster, he advised them to keep quiet till dark, when, +their pursuers having departed, he conducted them to the river, +supplied them with a large canoe, and sent them off in perfect +safety to the fleet. + +On reaching their ship, they found the 85th regiment under arms, +and preparing to land, for the purpose of either releasing their +comrades from captivity, or inflicting exemplary punishment upon +the farmer by whose treachery it was supposed that they had +suffered. But when the particulars of his behaviour were +related, the latter alternative was at once abandoned; and it was +determined to force a dismissal of the captives, by advancing up +the country, and laying waste every thing with fire and sword. +The whole of the light brigade was accordingly carried on shore, +and halted on the beach, whilst a messenger was sent forward to +demand back the prisoners. Such, however, was the effect of his +threatening, that the demand was at once complied with, and they +returned on board without having committed any ravages, or +marched above two miles from the boats. + +THE POTOMAC + +Besides this trifling debarkation, another little excursion was +made by the second and third brigades, the light troops being +left most unaccountably on board of ship, Colonel Brook, having +heard that an encampment was formed a few miles from the left +bank of the Potomac, determined, if possible, to come up with and +engage the force there stationed. With this view, two brigades +were landed on the night of the 4th of October, and pushed +forward at a brisk pace; but the enemy, being on the alert, had +timely notice of the movement, and retired; by which means our +people returned on the 5th, without effecting anything. + +THE CHESAPEAKE. + +By this time the whole fleet was once more collected together; +and crowded the Potomac with their keels. The Diadem being an +old slip and a bad sailer, it was determined to remove from her +the troops which she had formerly carried, to fill her with +American prisoners, and to send her to England. The Menelaus was +likewise dispatched with such officers and soldiers as required +the benefit of their native air to complete the cure of their +wounds; and the rest, getting under weigh on the 6th, stood +directly towards the mouth of the Chesapeake. When we reached +the James River, we anchored, and were joined by an American +schooner bearing a flag of truce. She brought with her Colonel +Thornton, Lieut. Colonel Wood, with the rest of the officers and +men who had been left behind at Bladensburg, and, being under the +guidance of Commodore Barney, that gentleman was enabled to +discharge his trust even to the very letter. + +It may readily be supposed that the meeting between friends thus +restored to each other was very agreeable. But there was another +source of comfort which this arrival communicated, of greater +importance than the pleasure bestowed upon individuals. In +Colonel Thornton we felt that we had recovered a dashing and +enterprising officer; one as well calculated to lead a corps of +light troops, and to guide the advance of an army, as any in the +service. On the whole, therefore, the American schooner was as +welcome as if she had been a first-rate man-of-war filled with +reinforcements from England. + +The wounded being now sent off, and Colonel Wood among the +number, the remainder of the fleet again set sail, and reached +the mouth of the bay without interruption. Here they were met by +a frigate and two brigs, which spoke to the Admiral, and +apparently communicated some important intelligence; for we +immediately put about and stood once more up the Chesapeake. The +wind, however, blew with great violence, and directly against us. +After beating about, therefore, for some time, without making any +progress, we turned our heads towards the ocean, and flying +between the Capes with amazing velocity, stood out to sea, +directing our course towards the S.S.E., and proceeding at the +rate of seven miles an hour under bare poles. The sea ran +tremendously high, and the sky was dark and dreary; insomuch that +by a landsman the gale might safely be accounted a storm. Under +these circumstances, the ship rolling as if she would dip her +topmasts in the water, and the waves breaking in at the back +windows of the cabin, nothing remained to be done but to go to +bed. Thither most of us accordingly repaired, and holding +ourselves in our berths by clinging to the posts, we amused +ourselves by watching the motions of stools, books, trunks, and +other articles, as they floated majestically from one side of the +cabin to the other. But the effects of the gale were not in +every respect ludicrous. Two small schooners, which had been +captured at Alexandria and converted into tenders, foundered and +went down, without an opportunity being afforded of saving an +individual of their crews. + +AT SEA. + +At length the wind began to moderate, and on the 18th there was a +dead calm. In point of comfort, however, I cannot say that much +change was experienced; for though the gale had ceased, the swell +still continued; and the motion produced by a heavy sea after a +storm is even more disagreeable than that occasioned by the storm +itself. But on this day the minds of all were set at ease as to +the place whither we were going, a telegraph signal being made to +steer for Jamaica. It was likewise understood that we should be +there joined by strong reinforcements, and proceed upon a secret +expedition against some place on the southern borders of the +United States. + +The calm which had succeeded the storm did not last long, for on +the 19th a fair breeze sprang up, and sent us at a moderate and +agreeable rate upon our course. The heat, however, was most +oppressive; even awnings being unable to afford sufficient +shelter. We were fast approaching the tropic of Cancer, and +every day experienced a greater degree of sultriness; till at +length, on the 25th, we crossed that imaginary boundary. Here we +were visited, according to custom, by Neptune and his wife; and +as the ceremony of shaving may be unknown to some of my readers, +I shall beg leave to relate the particulars of that operation. + +A clever active seaman, dressed up grotesquely in party-coloured +rags, adorned with a long beard made of the stuff which sailors +call spun-yarn, and armed with a tri-pronged harpoon, personates +the God of the Ocean. Another seaman, arrayed in like manner, +except that, instead of a beard, he wears a hideous mask, +performs the part of the lady. These are attended by a troop of +sea-gods and nymphs, similarly equipped; and advancing from the +bow of the vessel, as if just stepped on board, they come forward +to the mainmast, and summon before them all such persons as have +never sworn the oaths or previously visited their capital. At +the foot of the mast is placed a large tub full of sea-water, and +covered by a piece of canvas, which is held tight by four of +their attendants. Upon this unsteady throne is the luckless +wight, whom they design to initiate, compelled to sit; and being +asked several questions, which he cannot answer, and taking +several oaths, very much resembling those said to be administered +at Highgate, Neptune proceeds to confer upon him the honour of +filiation, by rather an extraordinary process. Two of the +sea-nymphs, generally tall stout fellows, pinion his arms to his +sides; and another, bringing a bucket filled with grease and +slops from the kitchen, sets it down at his godship's feet, +putting a small painting-brush into his hand. Neptune now dips +his brush into the filth, and proceeds to spread a lather over +the face of the novice, taking care to ask questions during the +whole process; and if the adopted be simple enough to reply, the +brush is instantly thrust into his mouth. As soon as a +sufficient quantity of grease is laid upon the face, Neptune +seizes a piece of rusty iron, generally the broken hoop of some +water-cask, with which he scrapes off all that has been applied. +If the novice take all this patiently, his face is washed, and he +is permitted to descend from his throne in peace; but if he lose +his temper, which most men are apt to do, a bucket of sea-water +is poured upon his head. If this be sufficient to cool his +wrath, he suffers no more; but if it only increase his +indignation, bucket after bucket is emptied over him, and at +last, the holders of the sail-cloth suddenly retiring, he is +plunged overhead into the tub. To crown all, the unfortunate +wretch who has endured these miseries is fined by his tormentor +in a gallon of ruin; a fine which the force of custom compels him +to pay. It must be confessed that this is a barbarous amusement, +much resembling that of the boys in the fable of the boys and the +frogs. Though very agreeable to those who act and to the lookers +on, it is not so to him that suffers. + +In this manner many persons were treated, till at length Neptune, +growing weary from the number of novices, was content to admit +the rest to the privileges of initiation, on condition that the +fines should be punctually paid; an agreement into which most of +us very thankfully entered. + +THE WEST INDIES. + +Next morning, the first object which met our eyes was the land of +Caycos island. We were so close to the shore, when daylight +discovered it, that had the wind been at all adverse we must +unquestionably have struck; but being assisted by a fair and +gentle breeze, the ships put about immediately, and escaped the +danger. Standing out to sea, the fleet now doubled the +promontory, and steering round by the other side, sailed on +without losing sight of the land till late in the evening. + +On the following day, a signal was made from the Admiral's ship, +that the Golden Fleece transport, under convoy of the Volcano +bomb, should proceed to Port Royal, whilst the rest of the fleet +held their course towards Negril Bay. These two vessels +accordingly set all sail, and pushed forward by themselves; the +others keeping on at a more moderate rate, that none might stray +from the convoy: for the West India seas at this time swarmed +with American privateers, and it was of great consequence to keep +the store-ships and heavy transports in the middle of the +squadron. + +It so chanced that I took my passage in one of the two ships +which proceeded forward by themselves. The wind was fair, and we +made great progress, insomuch that before dark the high land of +St. Domingo on one side, and the mountains of Cuba on the other, +were discernible. In spite of the heat, therefore, our voyage +soon became truly delightful. Secure of getting on under the +influence of the trade winds, we had nothing to distract our +thoughts, or keep us from feasting our eyes upon the glorious +shores of these two islands; whilst in addition to the sight of +land, which of itself was cheering, we were amused with +water-spouts, apparently playing about us in every direction. +One of these, however, began to form within a little distance of +the ship, and as they are dangerous as well as interesting, a +cannon was got ready to break it before it should reach us. But +it did not complete its formation, though I cannot tell why; for, +after one spout had risen into the air some height, and another +bent down from the clouds to meet it, they were suddenly carried +away in different directions, and fell into the sea with the +noise of a cataract. + +Among other sources of amusement, our attention was drawn, on the +29th, to a shark, which made its appearance at the stern of the +vessel. A strong hook was immediately prepared, and baited with +a piece of salt pork, which being thrown over, was instantly +gulped by the voracious monster. But as soon as he felt the pain +occasioned by the book in his jaws, he plunged towards the bottom +of the sea with such violence, as to render the very tafferel +hot, by the rapidity of the cord gliding over it. Having +permitted him to go a certain length, he was again hauled up to +the surface, where he remained without offering further +resistance, till a boat was lowered, and a strong noose thrown +over his head. Being thus made fast to the gunwale of the boat, +he was brought round to the gangway, when the end of the noose +being cast over the main-yard, he was lifted out of the sea and +swung upon the ship's deck. Hitherto he had suffered quietly +enough, in apparent stupefaction from the pain of his jaw; but he +began now to convince us that neither life nor strength had +deserted him; lashing his tail with such violence as speedily to +clear the quarter-deck, and biting in the most furious manner at +everything within his reach. One of the sailors, however, who +seemed to understand these matters more than his comrades, took +an axe, and watching his opportunity, at one, blow chopped off +his tail. He was now perfectly harmless, unless, indeed, one had +chosen to thrust one's hand into his mouth; and the same sailor +accordingly proceeded to lay him open, and to take out his +entrails. And now it was that the tenacity of life, peculiar to +these animals, displayed itself. After his heart and bowels were +taken out; the shark still continued to exhibit proofs of +animation, by biting with as much force as ever at a bag of +carpenter's tools that happened to lie within his reach. + +Being cut up, he was distributed in portions among the soldiers +and the ship's crew. The tail part only was reserved as the +chief delicacy for our cabin, which, though dry and hard, with +little flavour or taste, was on the present occasion considered +as agreeable food, because it was fresh. + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + +BUT what I principally relished, in this part of our voyage, was +the exquisite beauty of its night-scenery. To an inhabitant of +Great Britain, the splendour of a night-scene in these climates +is altogether unknown. Shining broad and full in a sky perfectly +cloudless, the moon sends forth a clear and mellow lustre, little +inferior, in point of brilliancy, to the full twilight in +England. By this means you never lose sight of land, either by +night or day, as long as your course lies between Cuba and St. +Domingo; whilst the delicious coolness, which follows the setting +of the sun, tempts you, in spite of all the whispers of prudence, +to expose yourself to dews and damps, rather than forego the +pleasures of which they are the bane. Besides, you have +constantly the satisfaction of observing yourself move steadily +on at the most agreeable of all rates, about five or six miles an +hour; a satisfaction far from trifling in a sea-life. Then the +ocean is so smooth, that scarcely a ripple is seen to break the +moon-beams as they fall; whilst the quiet dash of little waves +against the ship's side, and the rushing noise occasioned by the +moving of her bow through the water, produce altogether an effect +which may, without affectation, be termed absolutely refreshing. +It was my common practice to sit for hours after night-fall upon +the tafferel, and strain my eyes in the attempt to distinguish +objects on shore or strange sails in the distance. + +It happened that, on the 30th, I was tempted to indulge in this +idle but bewitching employment, even beyond my usual hour for +retiring, and did not quit the deck till towards two o'clock in +the morning of the 31st. I had just entered my cabin, and was +beginning to undress, when a cry from above, of an enemy in +chase, drew me instantly to the quarter-deck. On looking astern, +I perceived a vessel making directly after us, and was soon +convinced of the justice of the alarm, by a shot which whistled +over our heads. All hands were now called to quarters, the small +sails were taken in, and having spoken to our companion, and made +an agreement as to position, both ships cleared for action. But +the stranger, seeing his signal obeyed with so much alacrity, +likewise slackened sail, and, continuing to keep us in view, +followed our wake without approaching nearer. In this state +things continued till daybreak, we still holding our course, and +he hanging back; but as soon as it was light, he set more sail +and ran to windward, moving just out of gun-shot, in a parallel +direction with us. It was now necessary to fall upon some plan +of deceiving him, otherwise there was little probability that he +would attack. In the bomb, indeed, the height of the bulwark +served to conceal some of the men; but in the transport no such +screen existed. The troops were, therefore, ordered below, and +only the sailors, a few blacks, and the officers, kept the deck. +The same expedient was likewise adopted, in part, by Captain +Price, of the Volcano; and in order to give to his ship a still +greater resemblance than it already had to a merchantman, he +displayed an old faded scarlet ensign, and drew up his fore and +mainsail in what sailors term a lubberly manner. + +As yet the stranger had shown no colours, but, from her build and +rigging, there was little doubt as to her country. She was a +beautiful schooner, presenting seven ports on a side, and +apparently crowded with men, circumstances which immediately led +us to believe that she was an American privateer. The Volcano, +on the other hand, was a clumsy strong-built ship, carrying +twelve guns; and the Golden Fleece mounted eight; so that, in +point of artillery, the advantage was rather on our side; but the +American's sailing was so much superior to that of either of us, +that this advantage was more than counterbalanced. + +Having dodged us till eight o'clock, and reconnoitred with great +exactness, the stranger began to steer gradually nearer and +nearer, till at length it was judged that she had arrived within +range. A gun was accordingly fired from the Volcano, and another +from the transport, the balls from both of which passed over her +and fell into the sea. Finding herself thus assaulted, she +instantly threw off her disguise, and hung out an American +ensign; when, putting her helm up, she poured a broadside, with a +volley of musketry, into the transport; and ran alongside of the +bomb, which sailed to windward. + +As soon as her flag was displayed, and her intention of attacking +discerned, all hands were ordered up, and she received two +well-directed broadsides from the Volcano, as well as a warm +salute from the Golden Fleece. But such was the celerity of her +motion, that she was alongside of the bomb in less time than can +be imagined; and actually dashing her bow against the other, +attempted to carry her by boarding. Captain Price, however, was +ready to receive them. The boarders were at their posts in an +instant, and the enemy discovering, when it was too late, the +mistake into which he had fallen, left about twenty of his men +upon the Volcano's bowsprit, all of whom were thrown into the +sea; and filling his sails, sheered off with the same speed with +which he had borne down. In attempting to escape, he unavoidably +fell somewhat to leeward, and exposed the whole of his deck to +the fire of the transport. A tremendous discharge of musketry +saluted him as he passed; and it was almost laughable to witness +the haste with which his crew hurried below, leaving none upon +deck except such as were absolutely wanted to work his vessel. + +The Volcano had by this time filled, and gave chase, firing with +great precision at the privateer's yards and rigging, in the hope +of disabling him. But as fortune would have it, none of his +important ropes or yards were cut; and we had the mortification +to see him, in a few minutes, beyond our reach. + +In this affair, a marine officer and two men were killed on board +the bomb; and some of the tackling was shot away. The transport +suffered nothing in killed or wounded, having been in a great +degree protected from the enemy's fire by her commodore; and only +one rope, not, I believe, an important one, was destroyed. + +The battle having ended, and the chase being given up as +fruitless, we continued our course without any other adventure; +and before dark were able to distinguish the blue mountains of +Jamaica. St. Domingo and Cuba had both disappeared, and this +was now the only land visible; but it was not till the 1st of +November that we could obtain a distinct view of it. Then, +indeed, we found ourselves within a few miles of the shore, and +seldom has landscape appeared more attractive to the eyes of a +voyager, than the romantic shores of Jamaica now appeared to ours. + +Jamaica is in general a bold and mountainous island, but on this +side it is peculiarly so. It appeared to me that even the +Pyrenees, magnificent as they are, were not to be compared, in +point of altitude, to the hills now before me; and early in the +morning, while yet the mists hung upon their summits and +concealed them, no prospect can be imagined more sublime than +that which they presented. It was, in truth, a glorious scene; +and as the wind blew light and uncertain, we were permitted, from +the slowness of the ship's progress, to enjoy it to the full. +Towards evening, indeed, the breeze died entirely away, which +compelled us to anchor about eight miles from the harbour of Port +Royal. + +PORT ROYAL. + +In spite of the little rest which I had procured during the two +preceding nights, having sat up till an early hour this morning, +to watch several strange sails that hovered about us, I could not +bring myself to quit the deck till after midnight, so beautiful, +in all respects, were the objects around me. The moon shone with +her accustomed brilliancy, and exhibited every crag and tree upon +the land, changed and confounded in shape, but still plainly; +whilst the perfume, borne off upon the breeze, was odoriferous in +the highest degree. The sound of the waves, likewise, breaking +upon the rocks, and the occasional cry of seamen, as they +adjusted ropes and sails, together with the sight of several +vessels which took advantage of the night-wind and stood to sea, +with canvas glittering in the moonbeams, produced so delightful a +combination, as completely riveted me to my seat; nor was it +without much reluctance that I at length yielded to the drowsy +god, and descended to my cabin. + +Next morning, the ship got under weigh at an early hour, but, +owing to the unsteadiness of the breeze, it was ten o'clock +before we made any satisfactory progress. As we approached the +bay which forms the harbour of Port Royal, a novel and pleasing +sight presented itself. The hills dying gradually away, gave +place to gentle slopes and green knolls, till, towards the +entrance, the coast became perfectly level. Pushing forward, we +soon found ourselves in a narrow channel between two projecting +headlands, beautifully ornamented with cocoa-nut trees, and so +near to each other, that I could with ease have thrown a biscuit +from the ship's deck upon either. At the extremity of these +necks, just where the bay begins its sweep, stand two well-built +forts, bristling with cannon; and at the opposite side may be +seen a third, ready to sink whatever hostile fleet should be +fortunate enough to force an entrance. But these were not the +most striking parts of the scene. The water in this strait is +remarkably clear, and exhibits with great distinctness the tops +and chimneys of houses at the bottom. It will be recollected, +that many years ago, an earthquake not only demolished great part +of the town of Port Royal, but likewise covered it with the sea; +by which means, the site of the harbour was completely changed, +and that which was formerly dry land, and a town, became part of +the entrance of the bay. + +Having doubled the promontories, a rich and extensive prospect +meets the eye. You find yourself, as it were, in a large inland +lake, the banks of which are covered with plantations of sugar +cane, groves of cocoa-nut and plantain trees, and other woods +peculiar to these regions, beautifully interspersed with seats +and villages. On your right is the town of Port Royal, lying +almost on a level with the water, and strongly protected by +fortifications, whilst in various other directions are castles +and batteries, adding an appearance of security to that of +plenty. The banks, though not lofty, slope gently upwards, +with occasional falls or glens, and the background is composed +in general of the rugged tops of distant mountains. + +Having waited till the ship dropped anchor, I put myself into a a +sort of barge rowed by four negroes, and proceeded to Kingston. +Though not the capital of the island, Kingston is the largest +town in Jamaica. It stands upon the brink of a frith, about nine +miles above Port Royal, and thence enjoys all the advantages of +the chief mart in this trading country. Like most other +mercantile seaports, it is built without much regard to +regularity. The streets, though wide, are in general the reverse +of elegant, being composed almost entirely of wooden houses, and +by no means remarkable for cleanliness. Of public buildings it +possesses none worthy of notice. Its inns are, however, +excellent; and though certainly not moderate in their charges, +they are at least more so than those of Bermuda. In a word, it +is exactly such a town as one would expect to find holding the +principal commercial rank in a colony where men's minds seldom +aspire beyond the occupations of trade. + +Of the intense heat in this place, none but those who have +experienced it can form a notion. It is impossible to walk out +with any comfort, except before the sun has risen, or after he +has set; and even within doors, with the aid of thorough draughts +and all the other expedients usually adopted on such occasions, +it is with the utmost difficulty that you can contrive to keep +your blood in a moderate degree of temperature. In the town +itself, therefore, few of the higher classes reside, the +closeness produced by a proximity of houses being in this climate +peculiarly insupportable. These inhabit for the most part little +villas, called Pens, about three or four miles in the country, +the +master of each family generally, retaining a suite of apartments, +or, perhaps an entire mansion, in some open street for his own +use, when business obliges, him, to exchange the comfort of fresh +air for the suffocating atmosphere of Kingston. Towards the +outskirts, indeed, in one direction, a few gentile families +inhabit one or two handsome houses, surrounded by extensive +gardens and shrubberies; but these are not numerous, and they are +so far removed from the heart of the town, as to be in great +measure beyond the influence of its smoke and other nuisances. + +During our sojourn in this place we received the most hospitable +attention from several persons of the first distinction. Balls +and other entertainments were given, at which all the beauty and +fashion in this part of the island attended; and for some days I +had little leisure or inclination for any other pursuit than the +enjoyment of civilized pleasure, a pursuit which, from long +disuse, possessed more than ordinary zest. But at length having +seen as much of Kingston and its vicinity as, I desired to see, I +determined to take advantage of the opportunity which fortune had +placed within my reach, and to make an excursion into the heart +of the Blue Mountains. To this I was additionally induced by an +invitation from an old friend to visit him at Annotto bay; and +as, along with his letter, he sent a horse for my own conveyance, +and a mule for the conveyance of my baggage, no difficulty +respecting a mode of being transported stood in the way to +obstruct my design. + +Having made up my mind to this journey, I waited, till sunset on +the 9th, when, starting in the cool of the evening, I reached a +little tavern called the Plum Tree, about half an hour after dark. +My ride carried me through an open and fertile country covered +with sugar-canes, coffee, and such other plants as are cultivated +in the low grounds of Jamaica. It was a short one, not more than +twelve miles in extent, but I was forced to halt where I did, +because I had gained the foot of the mountains; and if I had +passed the Plum Tree, well known as a sort of half-way house on +such tours, I might have travelled all night without finding any +place of accommodation. + +As darkness set in, one of the, beautiful peculiarities of a +tropical climate, which I had not previously witnessed, came +under my observation. The air was filled with fire-flies, which, +emitting a phosphoric light something similar to the light of +the glow-worm, only more red and brilliant, danced around me like +sparks from a smith's anvil when he is beating a bar of red-hot +iron. These creatures flutter about with a humming noise, and +frequently settle in large swarms upon branches of trees, giving +them the semblance of so many pieces of timber taken newly out of +a fire. When viewed by daylight they are in no way remarkable for +their elegance, resembling in the shape of the body a long beetle +which may be seen in the fields after sunset, without wings or +scales. In colour they are a dingy brown, and, like the +glow-worm, carry their light in the tail. + +As I had not before chanced to see anything of the kind, and +forgot at the moment that such an insect as the fire-fly existed, +I was for a few minutes at a loss to what cause to attribute the +phenomenon, and was at last indebted to my negro guide for +refreshing my memory on the subject. The effect, however, cannot +be conceived without being witnessed. A cluster of two or three +glow-worms shine so brilliantly, that they will furnish subject +for the commendatory eloquence of any one fortunate enough to +perceive them together; but their brilliancy is to a farthing +candle to the sun, when compared with that of the fire-fly. Not +two, or three, but thousands of these creatures dance around, +filling the air with a wavering and uncertain glimmer, of the +extreme beauty of which no words can convey an adequate +conception. + +THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. + +Having passed the night at this tavern, a small cottage kept by a +free negro and his wife, I rose two hours before dawn, and +prosecuted my journey. From the moment I quitted the Plate Tree +I began gradually to ascend, till at daybreak I found myself in +the midst of the most glorious scenery that the imagination of +man can conceive. Everything around was new and romantic. The +hills, towering into the very sky, were covered from top to +bottom with the richest herbage and the most luxuriant wood. +Rarely could a barren crag be discerned, and when it did appear +it was only a sharp point, or a bald projection pushing itself +forward from the midst of the thickest foliage. But what to me +formed the most bewitching part of the prospect was the elegance +of the trees and their perfect dissimilitude to any which had +previously beheld. The cocoa-nut and plantain were mingled with +the wild pine and lime-tree; while the cashew and wild coffee, +with numberless other shrubs, loaded at once with fruit and +blossom, formed the underwood to these graceful forests. + +As yet I had been favoured with a wide and good road, but now it +began gradually to narrow, till at last it ended in a path little +more distinct than the sheep-tracks over the hills in Scotland. +Winding along the sides of the mountains, it brought me +frequently to spots where the wood parting, as if artificially, +displayed deep ravines, to look down which, without becoming +dizzy, required no little strength of head; whilst above, the +same hill continued to stretch itself to a height far beyond any +I had before gazed upon. Presently after it conducted me gently +down into valleys completely shut out from the rest of the world; +and as I descended I could hear the roar of water, though +neither, the stream nor the bottom of the glen could be +perceived. On one of these occasions, after passing through a +thick grove, I beheld a river of some width dashing along the +glen, and chafing so as to produce the noise of a mighty +waterfall. Towards the brink of this river my guide conducted me; +when, plunging in, we made our way with some difficulty to the +opposite bank, and again began to ascend. + +For several hours, the same scenery surrounded me, only varied by +the occasional appearance of clusters of negro huts. Than these, +it is impossible to imagine any species of huts or dwellings more +beautifully picturesque. They are constructed of strong limbs of +trees, thatched over with straw, and usually ending in a cone; +having no windows, but only two, or sometimes four doors, for the +purpose of admitting a free current of air. The spots chosen for +their erection, are generally small platforms or terraces in the +sides of the hills. A little path, similar to that along which I +travelled, winds down from their doors to the bottom of the +valley, and conducts to the edge of the river, from whence the +inhabitants are supplied with water. Other tracks likewise +branch off in different directions, some towards the summit, and +others along the sides of the mountains; leading, probably, to +the fields or spots where the inhabitants labour. These huts have +no chimney, but only a large hole in the roof, to give free +passage to the smoke; and I could perceive, by its rise at +present, that fires were now burning. + +It would be labour lost, were I to attempt any more minute +description of this delightful journey. Every step I took +presented something new, and something more grand and sublime +than I had just quitted; whilst the continual fording of the +swollen river (for I crossed the same stream no fewer than +eight-and-twenty times) gave an additional interest to the scene, +arising from the sense of danger. The rainy season having just +ended, this stream, the Wag-water, a most appropriate name, had +not as yet returned to its natural size; but at the fords, which +in general would not cover a horse's knees, the depth was such as +to moisten the saddle-girths. So great a quantity of water, in a +furious mountain-torrent, pouring on with all the violence +produced by a steep descent, occasioned no slight pressure upon +my steed; nor was it without considerable floundering on his +part, and some anxiety on mine, that once or twice we succeeded +in making good our passage. + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + +NOON was approaching when my sooty fellow-traveller directed my +attention to a neat cottage, romantically situated on the top of +a low mound, which stood alone in the middle of stupendous +mountains. It commanded one of the most exquisite prospects that +fancy can represent. A sort of glen surrounded it on every side, +richly and beautifully wooded; behind, rose some of the most +lofty of the Blue Mountains; on the right there was an opening, +which admitted a fine view of Annotto Bay; whilst in the other +direction, the hills sloping gradually upwards, presented an +inclined plane, covered with fields of sugar-cane, and ending, +at a considerable distance, in one abrupt and broken ridge. + +The cottage in question was the residence of my friend, and the +resting-place whither my steps were turned; nor did I experience +any regret at finding myself so near my journey's end. The heat +had for some time been almost intolerable, and having eaten +nothing since the night before, nature began to cry out for +repose and repletion; and, in truth, the welcome which I +experienced, was of a nature to take away all desire of wandering +farther. We had not met for several years--not, indeed, since I +was a child--and in the interval, some melancholy changes had +occurred in the family of my host; but he received me with the +cordial hospitality which a warm heart produces, and forgot his +private sorrows for a time, that he might not throw a damp upon +my enjoyments. + +The remainder of this day I spent, as a powerful sensation of +fatigue warned me to spend it, within doors; but on the following +morning I set out at an early hour, for the purpose of gratifying +my curiosity on a number of points which had frequently exercised +it. In this excursion, and indeed in all the excursions which I +undertook during my residence at his Pen, my friend accompanied +me; and an excellent and most intelligent guide he proved to be. +We made the tour of several estates, saw the process of making +sugar, visited the sugar and coffee plantations, and inspected +several hospitals, with one of which each estate is supplied, for +the accommodation and cure of sick negroes. In the course of +these rambles, I made it my business to inquire into the +condition and treatment of the slave population; inspecting their +huts, and even examining their provisions; and I frankly confess +that, though I began my researches under the influence of as many +prejudices as, on such a subject, are wont to be entertained by +Englishmen in general, the result of the whole was to convince me +that I had done glaring injustice to the character of the Jamaica +planters, as well as fostered notions of the wretchedness of the +negroes, utterly and iniquitously erroneous. It is no business +of mine, and, if it were, this is no proper place to take part in +what has of late been termed the West-Indian controversy; but, as +an eye-witness, I may venture to speak out on one point, by +affirming, that a countless proportion of the stories with which +the British public is amused, touching the barbarous treatment of +slaves by owners and overseers, are, if not absolute fables, at +all events gross exaggerations. I am aware that my residence in +the island was too brief, and my acquaintance with it too +limited, to entitle my opinions to the weight which a more +protracted sojourn might have obtained for them; but it is but +justice to state, that whilst I was there, I enjoyed +opportunities of seeing the negro at all times, and under all +circumstances, such as few casual visitors can boast of. My host +was not a planter, but a medical practitioner; and one prejudiced +rather against the slave system than in favour of it: there was +therefore no disposition on his part to cast dust into my eyes, +or to present to them only the bright side of the picture. Under +his guidance, I beheld the negro at work in the fields, in the +bosom of his family, in the sick ward, and at market; and I never +saw him other than a contented and light-hearted being. No doubt +there are instances of cruelty on the part of overseers in +Jamaica, exactly as there are instances of tyranny on the part of +parish officers and county magistrates in England; but had these +been as numerous, or as flagrant, as they are represented to be, +I cannot doubt but that something of the kind must have passed +under my eyes, even within the space of one week. No such event, +however, took place; and, as far as I could learn, no such event +was to be expected. + +Far be it from me to stand forward as the advocate of personal +bondage in the abstract--it is a grievous evil; and wherever men +are so far civilized as to render its abolition desirable, it is +an evil which ought to be abolished. But it is an evil of long +standing, authorized in the Bible, and therefore, we may presume, +not without its counterbalancing benefits. He, therefore, who +would seek, at all hazards and under all circumstances, to +dissolve the tie which binds a master to his slave, and a slave +to his master--whilst he would be doing that which the Apostles +never did, and which Christians are nowhere commanded to +do--would run no slight hazard of causing a quantity of mischief +to both parties, for which the benefits bestowed upon either +would not compensate. With respect to our own colonies, in +particular, it is manifest that the whole matter resolves itself +into one consideration. If the negroes be in such a state, as +that the boon of universal freedom would be productive to them of +universal benefit, by all means let it be bestowed at once, even +though it be attended by so much national expense, as the fair +demands of the proprietors for compensation shall impose upon us. +If they be not thus situated, let every practicable method be +adopted to advance them on the scale of civilization; but till +they be advanced far beyond their present station, let no false +hopes be excited that the moment of their liberation is at +hand. Many measures for their improvement have been adopted since +the year 1814, and many more are in daily process of adoption; +but it is greatly to be apprehended that much of the benefit +which these measures promised to bring about, has been obstructed +by the indiscreet zeal of those who profess, and probably feel, +the liveliest interest in their welfare. + +Besides adding to my stock of knowledge as to the cultivation of +the sugar-cane, the making of sugar, rum, &c. &c.; I had an +opportunity of seeing something of the Maroons, or free Negroes, +who inhabit the mountains. These people dwell apart from the +European settlers, holding very little intercourse with them, +though a single European generally resides in each of their +villages, as a sort of chief or magistrate. They struck me to be +a lazy, indolent, and harmless race of human beings; and they +formed, in all their habits, a striking contrast with their +enslaved brethren. Whilst the latter devote their spare hours to +the culture of their own little spots, to cudgel-playing, +dancing, or other gambols, the former appear to spend their whole +time in a state between sleeping and waking, at the doors of +their huts, or under the shelter of trees. Some of the Maroon +females, I observed, were really handsome, their features being +high, and their persons elegantly formed; but in general they +differed nothing from the other negroes, from whom, indeed, they +are principally descended. + +I heard that the men carry on a petty trade in feathers, but that +their principal occupation, at least that from which they derive +the largest emolument, consists in apprehending, and leading back +to their masters, run-away slaves. For their services in this +department, they were wont to receive a pension from the +Government; and they are still, I believe, supplied with muskets +and ammunition at the expense of the colonial authorities. But +enough of these details. + +My sojourn in St. Mary's having extended considerably beyond the +limits which prudence would have imposed upon it, I set out on +the morning of the 13th, on my return towards Kingston. The +country through which I travelled differed in many respects from +that which I had crossed in my way hither: it was in general less +wild, and less mountainous; but it possessed features of striking +beauty, rich corn-fields being interspersed amidst graceful +forests, and here and there a wild hill-side rising as a contrast +to both. The most remarkable variety, and not perhaps the least +agreeable, was, however, to be found in the absence of the +Wag-water; my guide having led me in a direction by which its +tortuous course was avoided. + +As it was late before I started, my ride soon became toilsome on +account of the heat, and I was fain to stop short for the night +at a place called Stoney Hill, about twelve miles from Kingston. +Here I was hospitably entertained by the officers of the 102nd +regiment; and, rising at an early hour on the following morning, +I contrived to complete my journey before breakfast. And it was +well that no further time had been expended in my progress. The +ships, I found, were preparing to put to sea; the stock was all +embarked, and the crews on board; nothing therefore remained for +me but to follow the general example, and to establish myself +with as little delay as possible in my cabin. + +PORT ROYAL-NEGRIL BAY. + +In spite of these preparations, the 15th and 16th of November +both passed away without any movement being made. It was, +however, my custom not to neglect any opportunities which chanced +to come in my way of viewing strange places, and obtaining an +acquaintance with strange people; neither on the present occasion +did I fail to make the most of the interval, by landing and +wandering over the town of Port Royal. But to describe minutely +a place so little deserving of description, would hardly repay me +for the labour of writing, or the reader for the toil of perusing +what I write. It is sufficient to observe, that except to him who +takes delight in beholding a well-constructed military work, +there is nothing in the busy, bustling town of Port Royal which +will at all compensate for the heat and fatigue which he must +undergo who, like myself, traverses its streets and lanes at +noon-day. + +The long looked-for signal to weigh was hung out at last; and at +an early hour on the 17th we put to sea. Our point of +destination was Negril Bay, the appointed place of rendezvous for +the whole armament; and we reached it without the occurrence of +mishap or adventure on the evening of the 19th. We found here a +large fleet already assembled; but the horses were all landed, +many officers were dwelling in tents on the shore, and everything +gave indication that some further delay might be expected. To say +the truth, I experienced no degree of satisfaction at this +prospect; for the point of the island opposite to which we now +lay was neither remarkable for its natural beauty nor very +thickly inhabited; and had the contrary been the case, I had seen +as much of Jamaica and its people as I was at all desirous to +see. Besides, it was impossible not to feel that whatever the +object of our expedition might be, it was not likely to be +furthered by this tardy mode of entering upon it; and rumours +already began to spread abroad, of discoveries incautiously and +untimely made. It was, therefore, with no slight degree of +pleasure that, on the morning of the 24th, the topmasts of a +numerous squadron were seen over the eastern promontory, in full +sail towards us; and it was with still greater delight that in a +short time we were able to discern the flags of Sir Alexander +Cochrane and Admiral Malcolm floating in the breeze. By and bye +the Tonnant and Royal Oak showed their hulls in the offing; and a +short while afterwards, these ships, followed by a large fleet of +troopers and transports, majestically entered the bay. As may +be imagined, our curiosity was strongly excited to learn what +reinforcements they contained, and what intelligence they +brought; insomuch, that they had scarcely dropped anchor when +they were boarded from almost every one of the ships which they +came to join. + +NEGRIL BAY. + +It appeared that this powerful reinforcement consisted of the +following corps:--the 93rd regiment, a fine battalion of +Highlanders, mustering nine hundred bayonets; six companies of +the 95th rifle corps; two West India regiments, each eight +hundred strong; two squadrons of the 14th Dragoons dismounted; +detachments of artillery, rockets, sappers, and engineers; +recruits for the different corps already in this part of the +world; and though last, not least, Major-General Keane to take +upon himself the command of the whole. The intelligence brought +was likewise interesting, for it informed us of the point whither +we were to proceed; and it was soon known throughout the fleet, +that the conquest of New Orleans was the object in view. + +But before I pursue my narrative further, having arrived, as it +were, at a second commencement, it may be well if I state in full +the number of men of which the army now consisted. In the first +place, then, there were the 4th, 44th, and 85th regiments, +originally dispatched from Bordeaux, and the 21st, which joined +the expedition at Bermuda. These battalions, being considerably +reduced by past service, could not at present muster conjunctly +above two thousand two hundred men; and being likewise deprived +of the Marine battalion, which had fought beside them in the +Chesapeake, they retained no followers except the artillery, +sappers, &c. which had accompanied them from the first. The whole +amount of this corps may, therefore, be estimated at two thousand +five hundred men. + +Without computing the individual strength of each detachment +now arrived, I will venture to fix the aggregate at two thousand +five hundred; and thus the whole, taken collectively, will amount +to five thousand combatants. That it might somewhat exceed or +fall under this computation, I do not deny; but neither the +excess nor deficiency could be considerable; and therefore my +statement may be received as correct, with very little allowance. + +This, it must be confessed, was a formidable force, and such as, +had all its parts been trustworthy, might have done much. But on +the black corps little reliance could be placed, especially if +the climate should prove colder than was anticipated; +consequently, there were not more than three thousand four +hundred men upon whom a General could fully depend. + +Together with these forces were brought out abundant stores of +ammunition, some clothing for the troops, and tents to be used +when an opportunity should offer. There were also numerous +additions to the commissariat and medical departments; in short, +the materiel of the army was increased in proportion to its +increase in number. + +To find himself in the chief command of the army, exceeded the +expectation, and perhaps the desire, of General Keane. Being a +young and dashing officer, he had been selected as most fit to +serve under General Ross; and having sailed from England before +the death of that gallant chief was known, he reached Madeira +before his elevation was communicated to him. Young as he was, +however, his arrival produced much satisfaction throughout the +armament; for though no one entertained a doubt as to the +personal courage of Colonel Brook, it was felt that a leader of +more experience was wanted on the present expedition. + +As soon as the newly-arrived squadron had anchored, the Bay was +covered with boats, which conveyed parties of officers from ship +to ship, hastening to salute their comrades, and to inquire into +the state of things at home. Greetings and hearty embraces were +interchanged between friends thus again brought together; and a +few passing ejaculations of sorrow bestowed upon those who could +not now take part in the meeting. Many questions were put, +relative to persons and places in England; in a word, the day +was spent in that species of employment, which can be completely +known only to those who have been similarly situated. + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +AT SEA. + +BUT the period granted for such indulgence was not of long +duration, for on the following morning the Tonnant, Ramilies, and +two brigs stood to sea; and on the 26th the rest of the fleet got +under weigh and followed the Admiral. It is impossible to +conceive a finer sea-view than this general stir presented. Our +fleet amounted now to upwards of fifty sail, many of them vessels +of war, which shaking loose their topsails, and lifting their +anchors at the same moment, gave to Negril Bay an appearance of +bustle such as it has seldom been able to present. In half an +hour all the canvas was set, and the ships moved slowly and +proudly from their anchorage, till, having cleared the headlands, +and caught the fair breeze which blew without, they bounded over +the water with the speed of eagles, and long before dark the +coast of Jamaica had disappeared. + +There is something in rapidity of motion, whether it be along a +high road or across the deep, extremely elevating; nor was its +effect unperceived on the present occasion. It is true that +there were other causes for the high spirits which now pervaded +the armament, but I question if any proved more efficient in +their production than the astonishing rate of our sailing. +Whether the business we were about to undertake would prove +bloody or the reverse entered not into the calculations of a +single individual in the fleet. The sole subject of remark was +the speed with which we got over the ground, and the probability +that existed of our soon reaching the point of debarkation. The +change of climate, likewise, was not without its effect in +producing pleasurable sensations. The farther we got from +Jamaica, the more cool and agreeable became the atmosphere; from +which circumstance we were led to hope that, in spite of its +southern latitude, New Orleans would not be found so oppressively +hot as we had been taught to expect. + +The breeze continuing without interruption, on the 29th we came +in sight of the island of Grand Cayman. It is a small speck in +the middle of the sea, lying so near the level of the water as to +be unobservable at any considerable distance. Though we passed +along with prodigious velocity, a canoe nevertheless ventured off +from the shore, and making its way through waves which looked as +if they would swallow it up, succeeded in reaching our vessel. +It contained a white man and two negroes, who brought off a +quantity of fine turtle, which they gave us in exchange for salt +pork; and so great was the value put upon salt provisions, that +the bartered a pound and a half of the one for a pound of the +other. To us the exchange was very acceptable, and thus both +parties remained satisfied with their bargain. + +Having lain-to till our turtle-merchants left us, we again filled +and stood our course. The land of Cayman was soon invisible; nor +was any other perceived till the 2nd of December, when the +western shores of Cuba presented themselves. Towards them we now +directed the ship's head, and reaching in within a few miles of +the beach, coasted along till we had doubled the promontory, +which forms one of the jaws of the Mexican Gulf. Whilst keeping +thus close to the shore, our sail was more interesting than +usual, for though this side of Cuba be low, it is nevertheless +picturesque, from the abundance of wood with which it is +ornamented. There are likewise several points where huge rocks +rise perpendicularly out of the water, presenting the appearance +of old baronial castles, with their battlements and lofty +turrets; and it will easily be believed that none of these +escaped our observation. The few books which we had brought to +sea were all read, many of them twice and three times through; +and there now remained nothing to amuse except what the variety +of the voyage could produce. + +But the shores of Cuba were quickly passed, and the old prospect +of sea and sky again met the gaze. There was, however, one +circumstance from which we experienced a considerable diminution +of comfort. As soon as we entered the gulf, a short disagreeable +swell was perceptible; differing in some respects from that in +the Bay of Biscay, but to my mind infinitely more unpleasant. So +great was the motion, indeed, that all walking was prevented; but +as we felt ourselves drawing every hour nearer and nearer to the +conclusion of our miseries, this additional one was borne without +much repining. Besides, we found some amusement in watching, from +the cabin windows, the quantity and variety of weed with which +the surface of the gulf is covered. The current being here +extremely rapid, the weed sails continually in the same +direction; that is to say, it goes round by the opposite side of +Cuba towards the banks of Newfoundland, and is carried sometimes +as far as Bermuda, and even to the Western Isles. + +It is not, however, my intention to continue the detail of this +voyage longer than may be interesting; I shall therefore merely +state that, the wind and weather having undergone some +variations, it was the 10th of December before the shores of +America could be discerned. On that day we found ourselves +opposite to the Chandeleur Islands, and near the entrance of Lake +Borgne. There the fleet anchored, that the troops might be +removed from the heavy ships into such as drew least water; and +from this and other preparations it appeared that to ascend this +lake was the plan determined upon. + +NEW ORLEANS. + +But before I pursue my narrative further, it will be well if I +endeavour to give some account of the situation of New Orleans, +and of the nature of the country against which our operations +were directed. + +New Orleans is a town of some note, containing from twenty to +thirty thousand inhabitants. It stands upon the eastern bank of +the Mississippi, in 30 degrees north latitude, and about 110 +miles from the Gulf of Mexico. Though in itself unfortified, it +is difficult to conceive a place capable of presenting greater +obstacles to an invader; and at the same time more conveniently +situated with respect to trade. Built upon a narrow neck of +land, which is confined on one side by the river, and on the +other by impassable morasses, its means of defence require little +explanation; and as these morasses extend to the distance of only +a few miles, and are succeeded by Lake Pontchartrain, which again +communicates through Lake Borgne* with the sea, its peculiar +commercial advantages must be equally apparent. It is by means +of the former of these lakes, indeed, that intercourse is +maintained between the city and the northern parts of West +Florida, of which it is the capital; a narrow creek, called in +the language of the country a bayo or bayouke, navigable for +vessels drawing less than six feet water, running up through the +marsh, and ending within two miles of the town. The name of this +creek is the Bayouke of St. John, and its entrance is defended +by works of considerable strength. + +_______________________ +* These are, properly speaking, one and the same lake. From the +entrance, however, as far as Ship Island, is called by the +inhabitants Lake Borgne, whilst all above that point goes under +the name of Lake Pontchartrain. They are both extremely shallow, +varying from 12 to 6 feet in depth. +----------------------- + +But to exhibit its advantages in a more distinct point of view, +it will be necessary to say a few words respecting that mighty +river upon which it stands. The Mississippi (a corruption of the +word Mechasippi, signifying, in the language of the natives, "the +father of rivers ") is allowed to be inferior, in point of size +and general navigability, to few streams in the world. According +to the Sioux Indians it takes its rise from a large swamp, and is +increased by many rivers emptying themselves into its course as +far as the Fall of St. Anthony, which, by their account, is +upwards of 700 leagues from its source. But this fall, which is +formed by a rock thrown across the channel, of about twelve feet +perpendicular height, is known to be 800 leagues from the sea; +and therefore the whole course of the Mississippi, from its +spring to its mouth, may be computed at little short of 5000 +miles. + +Below the fall of St. Anthony, again, the Mississippi is joined +by a number of rivers, considerable in point of size, and leading +out of almost every part of the continent of America. These are +the St. Pierre, which comes from the west; St. Croix, from the +eat; the Moingona, which is said to run 150 leagues from the +west, and forms a junction about 250 below the fall; and the +Illinois, which rises near the lake Michigan, 200 leagues east of +the Mississippi. + +But by far the most important of these auxiliary streams is the +Missouri, the source of which is as little known as that of the +Father of Rivers himself. It has been followed by traders +upwards of 400 leagues, who traffic with the tribes which dwell +upon its banks, and obtain an immense return for European goods. +The mouth of this river is five leagues below that of the +Illinois, and is supposed to be 800 from its source, which, +judging from the flow of its waters, lies in a north-west +direction from the Mississippi. It is remarkable enough that the +waters of this river are black and muddy, and prevail over those +of the Mississippi, which running with a clear and gentle stream +till it meets with this addition, becomes from that time both +dark and rapid. + +The next river of note is the Ohio, which taking its rise near +Lake Erie, runs from the north-east to the south-west, and joins +the Mississippi about 70 leagues below the Missouri. Besides +this there are the St. Francis, an inconsiderable stream, and +the Arkansas, which is said to originate in the same latitude +with Santa Fe in New Mexico, and which, holding its course nearly +300 leagues, falls in about 200 above New Orleans. Sixty leagues +below the Arkansas, comes the Yazous from the northeast; and +about 58 nearer to the city is the Rouge, so called from the +colour of its waters, which are of a reddish dye, and tinge those +of the Mississippi at the time of the floods. Its source is in +New Mexico, and after running about 200 leagues it is joined by +the Noir 30 miles above the place where it empties itself into +the Mississippi. + +Of all these rivers there is none which will not answer the +purposes of commerce, at least to a very considerable extent; and +as they join the Mississippi above New Orleans, it is evident +that this city may be considered as the general mart of the +whole. Whatever nation, therefore, chances to possess this +place, possesses in reality the command of a greater extent of +country than is included within the boundary-line of the whole +United States since from every direction are goods, the produce +of East, West, North, and South America, sent down by the +Mississippi to the Gulf. But were New Orleans properly supplied +with fortifications, it is evident that no vessels could pass +without the leave of its governor; and therefore is it that I +consider that city as of greater importance to the American +government than any other within the compass of their +territories. + +Having said so much on its commercial advantages, let me now +point out more distinctly than I have yet done the causes which +contribute to its safety from all hostile attempts. The first of +these is the shallowness of the river at its mouth, and the +extreme rapidity of the current. After flowing on in one +prodigious sheet of water, varying in depth from one hundred to +thirty fathoms, the Mississippi, previous to its joining the +Mexican Gulf, divides into four or five mouths, the most +considerable of which is encumbered by a sandbank continually +liable to shift. Over this bank no vessel drawing above +seventeen feet water can pass; when once across, however, there +is no longer a difficulty in being floated; but to anchor is +hazardous, on account of the huge logs which are constantly +carried down the stream. Should one of these strike the bow of +the ship, it would probably dash her to pieces; whilst, +independent of this, there is always danger of drifting or losing +anchors, owing to the number of sunken logs which the under-current +bears along within a few feet of the bottom. All vessels +ascending the river are accordingly obliged, if the wind be foul, +to make fast to the trees upon the banks; because without a +breeze at once fair and powerful, it is impossible to stem the +torrent. + +But besides this natural obstacle to invasion, the mouth of the +river is defended by a fort, which from its situation may be +pronounced impregnable. It is built upon an artificial causeway, +and is surrounded on all sides by swamps totally impervious, +which extend on both sides of the river to a place called the +Detour des Anglais, within twenty miles of the city. Here two +other forts are erected, one on each bank. Like that at the +river's mouth, these are surrounded by a marsh, a single narrow +path conducting from the commencement of firm ground to the gates +of each. If, therefore, an enemy should contrive to pass both +the bar and the first fort, he must here be stopped, because all +landing is prevented by the nature of the soil; and however fair +his breeze may have hitherto been, it will not now assist his +further progress. At this point the Mississippi winds almost in +a circle, insomuch that vessels which arrive are necessitated to +make fast till a change of wind occur. + +From the Detour des Anglais towards New Orleans the face of the +country undergoes an alteration. The swamp does not indeed end, +but it narrows off to the right, leaving a space of firm ground, +varying, from three to one mile in, width, between it and the +river. At the back of this swamp, again, which may be about six +or eight miles across, come up the waters of Lake Pontchartrain, +and thus a neck of arable land is formed, stretching for some way +above the city. The whole of these morasses are covered as far +as the Detour with tall reeds; a little wood now succeeds, +skirting the open country, but the wood measures no more than one +mile in depth, when it again gives place to reeds. Such is the +aspect of that side of the river upon which the city is built; +with respect to the other I can speak with less confidence, +having seen it but cursorily. It appears, however, to resemble +this in almost every particular, except that it is more wooded +and less confined with marsh. Both sides are flat, containing no +broken ground, nor any other cover, for military movements; for +on the open shore there are no trees, except a few in the gardens +of those houses which skirt the rivers; the whole being laid out +in large fields of sugar-cane; separated from one another by +rails and ditches. + +From the preceding brief account of the country, the advantages +possessed by a defending army must; be apparent. To approach by +the river is out of the question, and therefore an enemy can land +only from the lake. But this can be done nowhere, except where +creeks or bayos offer convenience for that purpose, because the +banks of the lake are universally swampy; and can hardly supply +footing for infantry, far less for the transportation of +artillery. Of these, however, there are not above one or two +which could be so used. The Bayo of St. John is one; but it is +too well defended, and too carefully guarded for any attempts; +and the Bayo of Catiline is another, about ten miles below the +city. That this last might be found useful in an attack, was +proved by the landing affected by our army at that point; but +what is the consequence? The invaders arrive upon a piece of +ground, where the most consummate generalship will be of little +If the defenders can but retard their progress--which, by +crowding the Mississippi with armed vessels, may very easily be +done, the labour of a few days will cover the narrow neck with +entrenchments; whilst the opposite bank remaining in their hands, +can at all times gall their enemy with a close and deadly +cannonade. Of wood, as I have already said, or broken ground +which might conceal an advance, there exists not a particle. +Every movement of the assailants must, therefore, be made under +their eyes; and as one flank of their army will be defended by a +morass, and the other by the river, they may bid defiance to all +attempts at turning. + +Such are the advantages of New Orleans; and now it is only fair +that I should state its disadvantages: these are owing solely the +climate. From the swamps with which it is surrounded, there +arise, during the summer months, exhalations extremely fatal to +the health of its inhabitants. For some months of the year, +indeed, so deadly are the effects of the atmosphere, that the +garrison is withdrawn, and most of the families retire from their +houses to more genial spots, leaving the town as much deserted as +if it had been visited by a pestilence. Yet, in spite of these +cautions, agues and intermittent fevers abound here at all times. +Nor is it wonderful that the case should be so; for independent +of the vile air which the vicinity of so many putrid swamps +occasions, this country is more liable than perhaps any other to +sudden and severe changes of temperature. A night of keen frost +sufficiently powerful to produce ice a quarter of an inch in +thickness, frequently follows a day of intense heat; whilst heavy +rains and bright sunshine often succeed each other several times +in the course of a few hours. But these changes, as may +supposed, occur only during the winter; the summer being one +continued series of intolerable heat and deadly fog. + +LAKE BORGNE. + +Of all these circumstances the conductors of the present +expedition were not ignorant. To reduce the forts which command +the navigation of the river was regarded as a task too difficult +to be attempted; and for any ships to pass without their +reduction seemed impossible. Trusting, therefore, that the +object of the enterprise was unknown to the Americans, Sir +Alexander Cochrane and General Keane determined to effect a +landing somewhere on the banks of the lake; and pushing directly +on, to take possession of the town, before any effectual +preparation could be made for its defence. With this view the +troops were removed from the larger into the lighter vessels, and +these, under convoy of such gun-brigs as the shallowness of the +water would float, began on the 13th to enter Lake Borgne. But we +had not proceeded far, when it was apparent that the Americans +were well acquainted with our intentions, and ready to receive +us. Five large cutters, armed with six heavy guns each, were +seen at anchor in the distances: and as all endeavours to land, +till these were captured, would have been useless, the transports +and largest of the gun-brigs cast anchor, whilst the smaller +craft gave chase to the enemy. + +But these cutters were built purposely to act upon the lake. +They accordingly set sail as soon as the English cruisers arrived +within a certain distance, and running on, were quickly out of +sight, leaving the pursuers fast aground. To permit them to +remain in the hands of the enemy, however, would be fatal, +because, as long as they commanded the navigation of the lake, no +boats could venture to cross. It was therefore determined at all +hazards, and at any expense, to take them; and since our lightest +craft could not float where they sailed, a flotilla of launches +and ships' barges was got ready for the purpose. + +This flotilla consisted of fifty open boats; most of them armed +with a carronade in the bow, and well manned with volunteers from +the different ships of war. The command was given to Captain +Lockier, a brave and skilful officer, who immediately pushed off; +and about noon came in sight of the enemy, moored fore and aft, +with broadsides pointing towards him. Having pulled a +considerable distance, he resolved to refresh his men before he +hurried them into action; and, accordingly, letting fall +grapplings just beyond the reach of the enemy's guns, the crews +of the different boats coolly ate their dinner. + +As soon as that meal was finished, and an hour spent in resting, +the boats again got ready to advance. But, unfortunately, a +light breeze which had hitherto favoured them, now ceased to +blow, and they were in consequence compelled to make way only +with the oar. The tide also ran strong against them, at once +increasing their labour and retarding their progress; but all +these difficulties appeared trifling to British sailors; and, +giving a hearty cheer, they moved steadily onward in one extended +line. + +It was not long before the enemy's guns opened upon them, and a +tremendous shower of balls saluted their approach. Some boats +were sunk, others disabled, and many men were killed and wounded; +but the rest pulling with all their might, and occasionally +returning the discharges from their carronades, succeeded, after +an hour's labour, in closing with the Americans. The marines now +began a deadly fire of musketry; whilst the seamen, sword in +hand, sprang up the vessels' sides in spite of all opposition; +and sabring every man that stood in their way, hauled down the +American ensign, and hoisted the British flag in its place. + +One cutter alone, which bore the commodore's broad pendant, was +not so easily subdued. Having noted its pre-eminence, Captain +Lockier directed his own boat against it; and happening to have +placed himself in one of the lightest and fastest sailing barges +in the flotilla, he found himself alongside of his enemy before +any of the others were near enough to render him the smallest +support. But nothing dismayed by odds so fearful, the gallant +crew of this small bark, following their leader, instantly leaped +on board the American. A desperate conflict ensued, in which +Captain Lockier received several severe wounds; but after +fighting from the bow to the stern, the enemy were at length +overpowered; and other barges coming up to the assistance of +their commander, the commodore's flag shared the same fate with +the others. + +PINE ISLAND. + +Having destroyed all opposition in this quarter, the fleet again +weighed anchor, and stood up the lake. But we had not been many +hours under sail, when ship after ship ran aground: such as still +floated were, therefore, crowded with the troops from those which +could go no farther, till finally the lightest vessel stuck fast; +and the boats were of necessity hoisted out, to carry us a +distance of upwards of thirty miles. To be confined for so long +a time as the prosecution of this voyage would require, in one +posture, was of itself no very agreeable prospect; but the +confinement was but a trifling misery when compared with that +which arose from the change in the weather. Instead of a +constant bracing frost, heavy rains, such as an inhabitant of +England cannot dream of, and against which no cloak could furnish +protection, began. In the midst of these were the troops embarked +in their new and straitened transports, and each division, after +an exposure of ten hours, landed upon a small desert spot of +earth, called Pine Island, where it was determined to collect the +whole army, previous to its crossing over to the main. + +Than this spot it is scarcely possible to imagine any place more +completely wretched. It was a swamp, containing a small space of +firm ground at one end, and almost wholly unadorned with trees of +any sort or description. There were, indeed, a few stinted [sic] +firs upon the very edge of the water, but these were so +diminutive in size as hardly to deserve a higher classification +than among the meanest of shrubs. The interior was the resort of +wild ducks and other water-fowl; and the pools and creeks with +which it was intercepted abounded in dormant alligators. + +Upon this miserable desert the army was assembled, without tents +or huts, or any covering to shelter them from the inclemency of +the weather; and in truth we may fairly affirm that our hardships +had here their commencement. After having been exposed all day +to a cold and pelting rain, we landed upon a barren island, +incapable of furnishing even fuel enough to supply our fires. To +add to our miseries, as night closed, the rain generally ceased, +and severe frosts set in, which, congealing our wet clothes upon +our bodies, left little animal warmth to keep the limbs in a +state of activity; and the consequence was, that many of the +wretched negroes, to whom frost and cold were altogether new, +fell fast asleep, and perished before morning. + +For provisions, again, we were entirely dependent upon the fleet. +There were here no living creatures which would suffer themselves +to be caught; even the water-fowl being so timorous that it was +impossible to approach them within musket-shot. Salt meat and +ship biscuit were, therefore, our food, moistened by a small +allowance of rum; fare which, though no doubt very wholesome, was +not such as to reconcile us to the cold and wet under which we +suffered. + +On the part of the navy, again, all these hardships were +experienced in a four-fold degree. Night and day were boats +pulling from the fleet to the island, and from the island to the +fleet; for it was the 21st before all the troops were got on +shore; and as there was little time to inquire into men's turns +of labour, many seamen were four or five days continually at the +oar. Thus they had not only to bear up against variety of +temperature, but against hunger, fatigue, and want of sleep in +addition; three as fearful burdens as can be laid upon the human +frame. Yet in spite of all this, not a murmur nor a whisper of +complaint could be heard throughout the whole expedition. No man +appeared to regard the present, whilst every one looked forward +to the future. From the General, down to the youngest drum-boy, +a confident anticipation of success seemed to pervade all ranks; +and in the hope of an ample reward in store for them, the toils +and grievances of the moment were forgotten. Nor was this +anticipation the mere offspring of an overweening confidence in +themselves. Several Americans had already deserted, who +entertained us with accounts of the alarm experienced at New +Orleans. They assured us that there were not at present 5000 +soldiers in the State; that the principal inhabitants had long +ago left the place; that such as remained were ready to join us +as soon as we should appear among them; and that, therefore, we +might lay our account with a speedy and bloodless conquest. The +same persons likewise dilated upon the wealth and importance of +the town, upon the large quantities of Government stores there +collected, and the rich booty which would reward its capture; +subjects well calculated to tickle the fancy of invaders, and to +make them unmindful of immediate afflictions, in the expectation +of so great a recompense to come. + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + +IT is well known that, at the period to which my narrative +refers, an alliance, offensive and defensive, subsisted between +the Government of Great Britain and the heads of as many Indian +nations or tribes as felt the aggressions of the settlers upon +their ancient territories, and were disposed to resent them. On +this side of the continent our principal allies were the Chaktaws +and Cherokees, two nations whom war and famine had reduced from a +state of comparative majesty to the lowest ebb of feebleness and +distress. Driven from hunting-ground to hunting-ground, and +pursued like wild beasts wherever seen, they were now confined to +a narrow tract of country, lying chiefly along the coasts of the +gulf and the borders of the lakes which adjoin to it. For some +time previous to the arrival of the expedition, the warriors of +these tribes put themselves under the command of Colonel +Nickolls, of the Royal Marines, and continued to harass the +Americans by frequent incursions into the cultivated districts. +It so happened, however, that, being persuaded to attempt the +reduction of a fort situated upon Mobile Point, and being, as +might be expected, repulsed with some loss, their confidence in +their leader, and their dependence upon British aid, had begun of +late to suffer a serious diminution. Though not very profitable +as friends, their local position and desultory mode of warfare +would have rendered them at this period exceedingly annoying to +us as enemies; it was accordingly determined to dispatch an +embassy to their settlements, for the purpose of restoring them +to good humour, or at least discovering their intentions. + +Whilst the troops were assembling upon Pine Island, a cutter, +having proper officers on board, and carrying presents of +clothing, arms, and rum, was dispatched upon this business. It +reached its place of destination in safety, and the ambassadors +found very little difficulty in bringing back the fickle Indians +to their wonted reliance upon British support. Several of the +chiefs and warriors, indeed, requested and obtained permission to +visit our Admiral and General, and to follow the fortunes of our +troops; and a very grotesque and singular appearance they +presented as they stood upon the quarter-deck of the Tonnant. +But the costume, habits, and customs of these savages have been +too frequently and too accurately described elsewhere, to render +any account of them on the present occasion desirable. It is +sufficient to observe, that whilst they gazed upon everything +around them with a look expressive of no astonishment whatever, +they were themselves objects of eager curiosity to us; and that +they bore our close inspection and somewhat uncourteous +deportment with the most perfect philosophy. But to my tale. + +The enemy's cutters having fallen into our hands, at an early +hour on the morning of the 16th the disembarkation of the troops +began. So deficient, however, was the fleet in boats and other +small craft fit to navigate the lakes, that it was late on the +evening of the 21st before the last division took up its ground +upon Pine Island, and even then the inconveniences of our descent +were but beginning. The troops had yet to be arranged in corps +and brigades; to each of these its proportion of Commissaries, +Purveyors, and Medical attendants, &c., &c., required to be +allotted; and some attempt at establishing depots of provisions +and military stores behoved to be made. In adjusting these +matters the whole of the 22nd was occupied, on which day the +General likewise reviewed the whole of the army. This being +ended, the force was next distributed into divisions, or corps; +and the following is the order it assumed. + +Instead of a light brigade, the General resolved to set apart +three battalions as an advanced guard. The regiments nominated +to that service were the 4th, the 85th Light Infantry, and the +95th. Rifles; and he selected Colonel Thornton of the 85th, as an +officer of talent and enterprise, to command them. Attached to +this corps were a party of rocket-men, with two light three-pounders-- +a species of gun convenient enough, where celerity of movement is +alone regarded, but of very little real utility in the field. +The rest of the troops were arranged, as before, into two +brigades. The first, composed of the 21st, 44th, and one +black regiment, was intrusted to Colonel Brook; and the second, +containing the 93rd and the other black corps, to Colonel +Hamilton, of the 7th West India regiment. To each of these, a +certain proportion of artillery and rockets was allotted: whilst +the dragoons, who had brought their harness and other +appointments on shore, remained as a sort of bodyguard to the +General, till they should provide themselves with horses. + +The adjustment of these matters having occupied a considerable +part of the 22nd, it was determined that all things should remain +as they were till next morning. Boats, in the mean time, began +to assemble from all quarters, supplies of ammunition were +packed, so as to prevent the possibility of damage from moisture, and +stores of various descriptions were got ready. But it appeared +that, even now, many serious inconveniences must be endured, and +obstacles surmounted, before the troops could reach the scene of +action. In the first place, from Pine Island to that part of the +main towards which prudence directed us to steer, was a distance +of no less than 80 miles. This, of itself, was an obstacle, or +at least an inconvenience, of no slight nature; for should the +weather prove boisterous, open boats, heavily laden with +soldiers, would stand little chance of escaping destruction in +the course of so long a voyage. In the next place, and what was +of infinitely greater importance, it was found that there were +not, throughout the whole fleet, a sufficient number of boats to +transport above one third of the army at a time. But to land in +divisions would expose our forces to be attacked in detail, by +which means one party might be cut to pieces before the others +could arrive to its support. The undertaking was, therefore, on +the whole, extremely dangerous, and such as would have been +probably abandoned by more timid leaders. Ours, however, were +not so to be alarmed. They had entered upon a hazardous +business, in whatever way it should be prosecuted; and since they +could not work miracles, they resolved to lose no time in +bringing their army into the field in the best manner which +circumstances would permit. + +THE LAKE. + +With this view, the advance, consisting of 1600 men and two +pieces of cannon, was next morning embarked. I have already +stated that there is a small creek, called the Bayo de Catiline, +which runs up from Lake Pontchartrain through the middle of an +extensive morass, about ten miles below New Orleans. Towards +this creek were the boats directed, and here it was resolved to +effect a landing. When we set sail, the sky was dark and +lowering, and before long a heavy rain began to fall. Continuing +without intermission during the whole of the day, towards night, +it, as usual, ceased, and was succeeded by a sharp frost; which, +taking effect upon men thoroughly exposed, and already cramped by +remaining so long in one posture, rendered our limbs completely +powerless. Nor was there any means of dispelling the benumbing +sensation, or effectually resisting the cold. Fires of charcoal, +indeed, being lighted in the sterns of the boats, were permitted +to burn as long as daylight lasted; but as soon as it grew dark, +they were of necessity extinguished, lest the flame should be +seen by row-boats from the shore, and an alarm be thus +communicated. Our situation was, therefore, the reverse of +agreeable; since even sleep was denied us, from the apprehension +of fatal consequences. + +THE LAKE--LANDING. + +Having remained in this uncomfortable state till midnight, the +boats cast anchor and hoisted awnings. There was a small piquet +of the enemy stationed at the entrance of the creek by which it +was intended to effect our landing. This it was absolutely +necessary to surprise; and whilst the rest lay at anchor, two or +three fast-sailing barges were pushed on to execute the service. +Nor did they experience much difficulty in accomplishing their +object. Nothing, as it appeared, was less dreamt of by the +Americans than an attack from this quarter, consequently no +persons could be less on their guard than the party here +stationed. The officer who conducted the force sent against +them, found not so much as a single sentinel posted! but having +landed his men at two places, above and below the but which they +inhabited, extended his ranks so as to surround it, and closing +gradually in, took them all fast asleep, without noise or +resistance. + +When such time had been allowed as was deemed sufficient for the +accomplishment of this undertaking, the flotilla again weighed +anchor, and without waiting for intelligence of success, pursued +their voyage. Hitherto we had been hurried along at a rapid rate +by a fair breeze, which enabled us to carry canvas; but this now +left us, and we made way only by rowing. Our progress was +therefore considerably retarded, and the risk of discovery +heightened by the noise which that labour necessarily occasions; +but in spite of these obstacles, we reached the entrance of the +creek by dawn; and about nine o'clock, were safely on shore. + +The place where we landed was as wild as it is possible to +imagine. Gaze where we might, nothing could be seen except one +huge marsh covered with tall reeds; not a house nor a vestige of +human industry could be discovered; and even of trees there were +but a few growing upon the banks of the creek. Yet it was such a +spot as, above all others, favoured our operations. No eye could +watch us, or report our arrival to the American General. By +remaining quietly among the reeds, we might effectually conceal +ourselves from notice; because, from appearance of all around, it +was easy to perceive that the place which we occupied had been +seldom, if ever before, marked with a human footstep. +Concealment, however, was the thing of all others which we +required; for be it remembered that there were now only sixteen +hundred men on the mainland. The rest were still at Pine Island, +where they must remain till the boats which had transported us +should return for their conveyance, consequently many hours must +elapse before this small corps could be either reinforced or +supported. If, therefore, we had sought for a point where a +descent might be made in secrecy and safety, we could not have +found one better calculated for that purpose than the present; +because it afforded every means of concealment to one part of our +force, until the others should be able to come up. + +MARCH. + +For these reasons, it was confidently expected that no movement +would be made previous to the arrival of the other brigades; but, +in our expectations of quiet, we were deceived. The deserters +who had come in, and accompanied us as guides, assured the +General that he had only to show himself, when the whole district +would submit. They repeated, that there were not five thousand +men in arms throughout the State: that of these, not more than +twelve hundred were regular soldiers, and that the whole force +was at present several miles on the opposite side of the town, +expecting an attack on that quarter, and apprehending no danger +on this. These arguments, together with the nature of the ground +on which we stood, so ill calculated for a proper distribution of +troops in case of attack, and so well calculated to hide the +movements of an army acquainted with all the passes and tracks +which, for aught we knew, intersected the morass, induced our +leader to push forward at once into the open country. As soon, +therefore, as the advance was formed, and the boats had departed, +we began our march, following an indistinct path along the edge +of the ditch or canal. But it was not without many checks that +we were able to proceed. Other ditches, similar to that whose +course we pursued, frequently stopped us by running in a cross +direction, and falling into it at right angles. These were too +wide to be leaped, and too deep to be forded; consequently, on +all such occasions, the troops were obliged to halt, till bridges +were hastily constructed of such materials as could be procured, +and thrown across. + +Having advanced in this manner for several hours, we at length +found ourselves approaching a more cultivated region. The marsh +became gradually less and less continued, being intersected by +wider spots of firm ground; the reeds gave place, by degrees, to +wood, and the wood to inclosed fields. Upon these, however, +nothing grew, harvest having long ago ended. They accordingly +presented but a melancholy appearance, being covered with the +stubble of sugar-cane, which resembled the reeds which we had +just quitted, in everything except altitude. Nor as yet was any +house or cottage to be seen. Though we knew, therefore, that +human habitations could not be far off, it was impossible to +guess where they lay, or how numerous they might prove; and as +we could not tell whether our guides might not be deceiving us, +and whether ambuscades might not be laid for our destruction as +soon as we should arrive where troops could conveniently act, our +march was insensibly conducted with increased caution and +regularity. + +But in a little while some groves of orange-trees presented +selves; on passing which two or three farm-houses +appeared. Towards these, our advanced companies immediately +hastened, with the hope of surprising the inhabitants, and +preventing any from being raised. Hurrying on at double-quick +time, they surrounded the buildings, succeeded in securing the +inmates, capturing several horses; but becoming rather careless +in watching their prisoners, one man contrived to effect his +escape. Now, then, all hope of eluding observation might be laid +aside. The rumour of our landing would, we knew, spread faster +than we could march; and it only remained to make that rumour as +terrible as possible. + +With this view, the column was commanded to widen its files, and +to present as formidable an appearance as could be assumed. +Changing our order, in obedience to these directions, we marched, +not in sections of eight or ten abreast, but in pairs, and thus +contrived to cover with our small division as large a tract or +ground as if we had mustered thrice our present numbers. Our +steps were likewise quickened, that we might gain, if possible, +some advantageous position, where we might be able to cope with +any force that might attack us; and thus hastening on, we soon +arrived at the main road which leads directly to New +Orleans. Turning to the right, we then advanced in the direction +of that town for about a mile; when, having reached a spot where +it was considered that we might encamp in comparative safety, our +little column halted; the men piled their arms, and a regular +bivouac was formed. + +HALT. + +The country where we had now established ourselves, answered, in +every respect, the description which I have already given of the +neck of land on which New Orleans is built. It was a narrow +plain of about a mile in width, bounded on one side by the +Mississippi, and on the other by the marsh from which we had just +emerged. Towards the open ground this marsh was covered with +dwarf wood, having the semblance of a forest rather than of a +swamp; but on trying the bottom, it was found that both +characters were united, and that it was impossible for a man to +make his way among the trees, so boggy was the soil upon which +they grew. In no other quarter, however, was there a single +hedge-row, or plantation of any kind; excepting a few apple and +other fruit trees in the gardens of such houses as were scattered +over the plain, the whole being laid out in large fields for the +growth of sugar-cane, a plant which seems as abundant in this +part of the world as in Jamaica. + +Looking up towards the town, which we at this time faced, the +marsh is upon your right, and the river upon your left. Close to +the latter runs the main road, following the course of the stream +all the way to New Orleans. Between the road and the water is +thrown up a lofty and strong embankment, resembling the dykes in +Holland, and meant to serve a similar purpose; by means of which +the Mississippi is prevented from overflowing its banks, and the +entire flat is preserved from inundation. But the attention of a +stranger is irresistibly drawn away from every other object, to +contemplate the magnificence of this noble river. Pouring along +at the prodigious rate of four miles an hour, an immense body of +water is spread out before you; measuring a full mile across, and +nearly a hundred fathoms in depth. What this mighty stream must +be near its mouth, I can hardly imagine, for we were here upwards +of a hundred miles from the ocean. + +Such was the general aspect of the country which we had +entered;--our own position, again, was this. The three regiments +turning off from the road into one extensive green field, formed +three close columns within pistol-shot of the river. Upon our +right, but so much in advance as to be of no service to us, was a +large house, surrounded by about twenty wooden huts, probably +intended for the accommodation of slaves. Towards this house +there was a slight rise in the ground, and between it and the +camp was a small pond of no great depth. As far to the rear as +the first was to the front, stood another house, inferior in +point of appearance, and skirted by no outbuildings: this was +also upon the right; and here General Keane, who accompanied us, +fixed his head-quarters; but neither the one nor the other could +be employed as a covering redoubt, the flank of the division +extending, as it were, between them. A little way in advance, +again, where the outposts were stationed, ran a dry ditch and a +row of lofty palings; affording some cover to the front of our +line, should it be formed diagonally with the main road. The +left likewise was well secured by the river; but the right and +the rear were wholly unprotected. Though in occupying this +field, therefore, we might have looked very well had the country +kind us been friendly, it must be confessed that our situation +hardly deserved the title of a military position. + + + +CHAPTER XX. + + +NOON had just passed, when the word was given to halt, by which +means every facility was afforded of posting the piquet's leisure +and attention. Nor was this deemed enough to secure +tranquillity: parties were sent out in all directions to +reconnoitre, who returned with an account that no enemy nor any +trace of an enemy could be discerned. The troops were +accordingly suffered to light fires, and to make themselves +comfortable, only their accoutrements were not taken off, and the +were piled in such form as to be within reach at a moment's +notice. + +As soon as these agreeable orders were issued, the soldiers to +obey them both in letter and in spirit. Tearing up a number of +strong palings, large fires were lighted in a moment; water was +brought from the river, and provisions were cooked. But their +bare rations did not content them. Spreading themselves over the +country as far as a regard to safety would permit, they entered +every house, and brought away quantities of hams, fowls, and +wines of various descriptions; which being divided among them, +all fared well, and none received too large a quantity. In this +division of good things, they were not unmindful of their +officers; for upon active warfare the officers are considered by +the privates as comrades, to whom respect and obedience are due, +rather than as masters. + +It was now about three o'clock in the afternoon, and all had as +yet remained quiet. The troops having finished their meal, lay +stretched beside their fires, or refreshed themselves by bathing, +for to-day the heat was such as to render this latter employment +extremely agreeable, when suddenly a bugle from the advanced +posts sounded the alarm, which was echoed back from all in the +army. Starting up, we stood to our arms, and prepared for +battle, the alarm being now succeeded by some firing; but we were +scarcely in order, when intelligence arrived from the front that +there was no danger, only a few horse having made their +appearance, who were checked and put to flight at the first +discharge. Upon this information, our wonted confidence +returned, and we again betook ourselves to our former +occupations, remarking that, as the Americans had never yet dared +to attack, there was no great probability of their doing so on +the present occasion. + +In this manner the day passed without any further alarm; and +darkness having set in, the fires were made to blaze with +increased splendour, our evening meal was eaten, and we prepared +to sleep. But about half-past seven o'clock, the attention of +several individuals was drawn to a large vessel, which seemed to +be stealing up the river till she came opposite to our camp; when +her anchor was dropped, and her sails leisurely furled. At first +we were doubtful whether she might not be one of our own cruisers +which had passed the fort unobserved, and had arrived to render +her assistance in our future operations. To satisfy this doubt, +she was repeatedly hailed; but returning no answer, an alarm +immediately spread through the bivouac, and all thought of sleep +was laid aside. Several musket-shots were now fired at her with +the design of exacting a reply, of which no notice was taken; +till at length, having fastened all her sails, and swung her +broadside towards us, we could distinctly hear some one cry out +in a commanding voice, "Give them this for the honour of +America." The words were instantly followed by the flashes of her +guns, and a deadly shower of grape swept down numbers in the +camp. + +Against this destructive fire we had nothing whatever to oppose. +The artillery which we had landed was too light to bring into +competition with an adversary so powerful; and as she had +anchored within a short distance of the opposite bank, no +musketry could reach her with any precision or effect. A few +rockets were discharged, which made a beautiful appearance in the +air; but the rocket is at the best an uncertain weapon, and these +deviated too far from their object to produce even terror amongst +those against whom they were directed. Under these +circumstances, as nothing could be done offensively, our sole +object was to shelter the men as much as possible from the iron +hail. With this view, they were commanded to leave the fires, +and to hasten under the dyke. Thither all accordingly repaired, +without much regard to order and regularity, and laying ourselves +along wherever we could find room, we listened in painful silence +to the pattering of grape-shot among our huts, and to the shrieks +and groans of those who lay wounded beside them. + +ATTACK. + +The night was now as dark as pitch, the moon being but young, and +totally obscured with clouds. Our fires deserted by us, and beat +about by the enemy's shot, began to burn red and dull, and, +except when the flashes of those guns which played upon us cast a +momentary glare, not an object could be distinguished at the +distance of a yard. In this state we lay for nearly an hour, +unable to move from our ground, or offer any opposition to those +who kept us there; when a straggling fire of musketry called our +attention towards the piquets, and warned us to prepare for a +closer and more desperate struggle. As yet, however, it was +uncertain from what cause this dropping fire arose. It might +proceed from the sentinels, who, alarmed by the cannonade from +the river, mistook every tree for an American; and till the real +state of the case should be ascertained, it would be improper to +expose the troops by moving any of them from the shelter which +the bank afforded. But these doubts were not permitted to +continue long in existence. The dropping fire having paused for +a few moments, was succeeded by a fearful yell; and the heavens +were illuminated on all sides by a semi-circular blaze of +musketry. It was now manifest that we were surrounded, and that +by a very superior force; and that no alternative remained, +except to surrender at discretion, or to beat back the +assailants. + +The first of these plans was never for an instant thought of; the +second was immediately put into force. Rushing from under the +bank, the 85th and 95th flew to support the piquets, whilst the +4th, stealing to the rear of the encampment, formed close column, +and remained as a reserve. And now began a battle of which no +language were competent to convey any distinct idea; because it +was one to which the annals of modern warfare furnish no +parallel. All order, all discipline were lost. Each officer, as +he succeeded in collecting twenty or thirty men about him, +plunged into the midst of the enemy's ranks, where it was fought +hand to hand, bayonet to bayonet, and sabre to sabre. + +I am well aware that he who speaks of his own deeds in the field +of battle lies fairly open to the charge of seeking to make a +hero of himself in the eyes of the public; and feeling this, it +is not without reluctance that I proceed to recount the part +which I myself took in the affair of this night. But, in truth, +I must either play the egotist awhile, or leave the reader +without any details at all; inasmuch as the darkness and general +confusion effectually prevented me from observing how others, +except my own immediate party, were employed. + +Offering this as my apology for a line of conduct which I should +otherwise blush to pursue, and premising that I did nothing, in +my own person, which was not done by my comrades at least as +effectually, I go on to relate as many of the particulars of this +sanguinary conflict as came under the notice of my own senses. + +My friend Grey and myself had been supplied by our soldiers with +a couple of fowls taken from a neighbouring hen-roost, and a few +bottles of excellent claret, borrowed from the cellar of one of +the houses near. We had built ourselves a sort of hut, by piling +together, in a conical form, a number of large stakes and broad +rails torn up from one of the fences; and a bright wooden fire +was blazing at the door of it. In the wantonness of triumph, too, +we had lighted some six or eight wax-candles; a vast quantity of +which had been found in the store-rooms of the chateaux hard by; +and having done ample justice to our luxurious supper, we were +sitting in great splendour and in high spirits at the entrance of +our hut, when the alarm of the approaching schooner was +communicated to us. With the sagacity of a veteran, Grey +instantly guessed how matters stood: he was the first to hail +the suspicious stranger; and on receiving no answer to his +challenge, he was the first to fire a musket in the direction of +her anchorage. But he had scarcely done so when she opened her +broadside, causing the instantaneous abandonment of fires, +viands, and mirth throughout the bivouac. + +As we contrived to get our men tolerably well around us, Grey and +myself were among the first who rushed forth to support the +piquets and check the advance of the enemy upon the right. +Passing as rapidly as might be through the ground of encampment +amidst a shower of grape-shot from the vessel, we soon arrived at +the pond; which being forded, we found ourselves in front of the +farm-house of which I have already spoken as composing the +head-quarters of General Keane. Here we were met by a few +stragglers from the outposts, who reported that the advanced +companies were all driven in, and that a numerous division of +Americans was approaching. Having attached these fugitives to +our little corps, we pushed on, and in a few seconds reached the +lower extremity of a sloping stubble-field, at the other end of +which we could discern a long line of men, but whether they were +friends or foes the darkness would not permit ups to determine. +We called aloud for the purpose of satisfying our doubts; but the +signal being disregarded, we advanced. A heavy fire of musketry +instantly opened upon us; but so fearful was Grey of doing injury +to our own troops, that he would not permit it to be returned. +We accordingly pressed on, our men dropping by ones and twos on +every side of us, till having arrived within twenty or thirty +yards of the object of our curiosity, it became to me evident +enough that we were in front of the enemy. Grey's humane caution +still prevailed; he was not convinced, till he, should be +convinced it was but natural that he should alter his plans. +There chanced to be near the spot where we were standing a huge +dung-heap, or rather a long solid stack of stubble, behind which +we directed the men to take shelter whilst one of us should creep +forward alone, for the purpose of more completely ascertaining a +fact of which all except my brave and noble-minded comrade were +satisfied. The event proved that my sight had not deceived me: I +approached within sabre's length of the line; and having +ascertained beyond the possibility of doubt that the line was +composed of American soldiers, I returned to my friend and again +urged him to charge. But there was an infatuation upon him that +night for which I have ever been unable to account: he insisted +that I must be mistaken; he spoke of the improbability which +existed that any part of the enemy's army should have succeeded +in taking up a position in rear of the station of one of our +outposts, and he could not be persuaded that the troops now +before him were not the 95th Rifle corps. At last it was agreed +between us that we should separate; that Grey with one half of +the party should remain where he was, whilst I with the other +half should make a short detour to the right, and come down upon +the flank of the line from whose fire we had suffered so +severely. The plan was carried into immediate execution. Taking +with me about a dozen or fourteen men, I quitted Grey, and we +never met again. + +How or when he fell I know not; but, judging from the spot and +attitude in which I afterwards found his body, I conceive that my +back could have been barely turned upon him when the fatal ball +pierced his brain. He was as brave a soldier and as good a man +as the British army can boast of; beloved by his brother officers +and adored by his men. To me he was as a brother; nor have I +ceased even now to feel, as often as the 23rd of December +returns, that on that night a tie was broken than which the +progress of human life will hardly furnish one more tender or +more strong. But to my tale. + +Leaving Grey--careless as he ever was in battle of his own +person, and anxious as far as might be to secure the safety of +his followers--I led my little party in the direction agreed +upon, and fortunately falling in with about an equal number of +English riflemen, I caused them to take post beside my own men, +and turned up to the front. Springing over the paling, we found +ourselves almost at once upon the left flank of the enemy; and we +lost not a moment in attacking it. But one volley was poured in, +and then bayonets, musket-butts, sabres, and even fists, came +instantly into play. In the whole course of my military career +remember no scene at all resembling this. We fought with the +savage ferocity of bull-dogs; and many a blade which till +to-night had not drunk blood became in a few minutes crimsoned +enough. + +Such a contest could not in the nature of things be of very long +continuance. The enemy, astonished at the vigour of our assault, +soon began to waver, and their wavering was speedily converted +into flight. Nor did we give them a moment's time to recover +from their panic. With loud shouts we continued to press upon +them; and amidst the most horrible din and desperate carnage +drove them over the field and through the little village of huts, +of which notice has already been taken as surrounding the mansion +on our advanced right. Here we found a number of our own people +prisoners, and under a guard of Americans. But the guard fled as +we approached, and our countrymen catching up such weapons as +came first to hand, joined in the pursuit. + +In this spot I halted my party, increased by the late additions +to the number of forty; among whom were two gallant young +officers of the 95th. We had not yet been joined, as I expected +be joined, by Grey; and feeling that we were at least far enough +in advance of our own line, we determined to attempt nothing +further except to keep possession of the village should it +attacked. But whilst placing the men in convenient situations, +another dark line was pointed out to us considerably to the left +our position. That we might ascertain at once of what troops was +composed, I left my brother officers to complete the arrangements +which we had begun, and walking down the field, demanded in a +loud voice to be informed who they were that kept post in so +retired a situation. A voice from the throng made answer that +they were Americans, and begged of me not fire upon my friends. +Willing to deceive them still further, I asked to what corps they +belonged; the speaker replied that they were the second battalion +of the first regiment, and inquired what had become of the first +battalion. I told him that it was upon my right, and assuming a +tone of authority, commanded him not to move from his present +situation till I should join him with a party of which I was at +the head. + +The conversation ended here, and I returned to the village; when, +communicating the result of my inquiries to my comrades, we +formed our brave little band into line and determined to attack. +The men were cautioned to preserve a strict silence, and not to +fire a shot till orders were given; they observed these +injunctions, and with fixed bayonets and cautious tread advanced +along the field. As we drew near, I called aloud for the +commanding officer of the second regiment to step forward, upon +which an elderly man, armed with a heavy dragoon sabre, stepped +out of the ranks. When he discovered by our dress that we were +English, this redoubtable warrior lost all self-command; he +resigned his sword to me without a murmur, and consented at once +to believe that his battalion was surrounded, and that to offer +any resistance would but occasion a needless loss of blood. Nor +was he singular in these respects: his followers, placing +implicit reliance in our assurances that they were hemmed in on +every side by a very superior force, had actually begun to lay +down their arms, and would have surrendered, in all probability, +at discretion, but for the superior gallantry of one man. An +American officer, whose sword I demanded, instead of giving it up +as his commander had done, made a cut at my head, which with some +difficulty I managed to ward off; and a few soldiers near him, +catching ardour from his example, discharged their pieces among +our troops. The sound of firing was no sooner heard than it +became general, and as all hope of success by stratagem might now +be laid aside, we were of necessity compelled to try the effect +of violence. Again we rushed into the middle of the throng, and +again was the contest that of man to man, in close and desperate +strife; till a panic arising among the Americans, they dispersed +in all directions and left us masters of the field. + +In giving a detail so minute of my own adventures this night, I +beg to repeat what has been stated already, that I have no wish +whatever to persuade my readers that I was one whit more cool or +more daring than my companions. Like them I was driven to +depend, from first to last, upon my own energies; and I believe +the energies of few men fail them when they are satisfied that on +them alone they must depend. Nor was the case different with my +comrades. Attacked unexpectedly, and in the dark, surrounded, +too, by a numerous enemy, and one who spoke the same language with +ourselves, it is not to be wondered at if the order and routine of +civilised warfare were everywhere set at nought. Each man who +felt disposed to command was obeyed by those who stood near +him, without any question being asked as to his authority; and +more feats of individual gallantry were performed in this +single night than many regular campaigns might furnish an +opportunity to perform. + +The night was far spent, and the sound of firing had begun to wax +faint, when, checking the ardour of our brave followers, we +collected them once more together and fell back into the village. +Here likewise considerable numbers from other detachments +assembled, and here we learned that the Americans were repulsed +on every side. The combat had been long and obstinately +contested: it began at eight o'clock in the evening and continued +till three in the morning--but the victory was ours. True, it +was the reverse of a bloodless one, not fewer than two hundred +fifty of our best men having fallen in the struggle: but even +at the expense of such a loss, we could not but account ourselves +fortunate in escaping from the snare in which we had confessedly +taken. + +To me, however, the announcement of the victory brought no +rejoicing, for it was accompanied with the intelligence that my +friend was among the killed. I well recollect the circumstances +under which these sad news reached me. I was standing with a +sword in each hand--my own and that of the officer who had +surrendered to me, and, as the reader may imagine, in no bad +humour with myself or with the brave fellows about me, when a +brother officer stepping forward abruptly told the tale. It came +me upon me like a thunderbolt; and casting aside my trophy, +thought only of the loss which I had sustained. Regardless of +every other matter I ran to the rear, and found Grey lying behind +the dung-heap, motionless and cold. A little pool of blood which +had coagulated under his head, pointed out the spot where the +ball had entered, and the position of his limbs gave proof that +he must have died without a struggle. I cannot pretend to +describe what were then my sensations, but of whatever nature +they might be, little time was given for their indulgence; the +bugle sounding the alarm, I was compelled to leave him as he lay, +and to join my corps. Though the alarm proved to be a false one, +it had the good effect of bringing all the troops together, by +which means a regular line was now, for the first time since the +commencement of the action, formed. In this order, having +defiled considerably to the left, so as to command the highway, +we stood in front of our bivouac till dawn began to appear; when, +to avoid the fire of the schooner, we once more moved to the +river's bank and lay down. Here, during the whole of the +succeeding day, the troops were kept shivering in the cold frosty +air, without fires, without provisions, and exhausted with +fatigue; nor was it till the return of night that any attempt to +extricate them from their comfortless situation could be made. + +FIELD OF BATTLE. + +Whilst others were thus reposing, I stole away with two or three +men for the purpose of performing the last sad act of affection +which it was possible for me to perform to my friend Grey. As we +had completely changed our ground, it was not possible for me at +once to discover the spot where he lay; indeed I traversed a +large portion of the field before I hit upon it. Whilst thus +wandering over the arena of last night's contest, the most +shocking and most disgusting spectacles everywhere met my eyes. +I have frequently beheld a greater number of dead bodies within +as narrow a compass, though these, to speak the truth, were +numerous enough, but wounds more disfiguring or more horrible I +certainly never witnessed. A man shot through the head or heart +lies as if he were in a deep slumber; insomuch that when you gaze +upon him you experience little else than pity. But of these, +many had met their deaths from bayonet wounds, sabre cuts, or +heavy blows from the butt ends of muskets; and the consequence +was, that not only were the wounds themselves exceedingly +frightful, but the very countenances of the dead exhibited the +most savage and ghastly expressions. Friends and foes lay +together in small groups of four or six, nor was it difficult to +tell almost the very hand by which some of them had fallen. Nay, +such had been the deadly closeness of the strife, that in one or +two places an English and American soldier might be seen with the +bayonet of each fastened in the other's body. + +Having searched for some time in vain, I at length discovered +friend lying where during the action we had separated, and where, +when the action came to a close, I had at first found him, shot +through the temples by a rifle bullet so remarkably small as +scarcely to leave any trace of its progress. I am well aware +that this is no fit place to introduce the working of my own +personal feelings, but he was my friend, and such a friend as few +men are happy enough to possess. We had known and loved each +other for years; our regard had been cemented by a long +participation in the same hardships and dangers, and it cannot; +therefore surprise, if even now I pay that tribute to his worth +and our friendship which, however unavailing it may be, they both +deserve. + +When in the act of looking for him I had flattered myself that I +should be able to bear his loss with something like philosophy, +but when I beheld him pale and bloody, I found all my resolution +evaporate. I threw myself on the ground beside him and wept, +like a child. But this was no time for the indulgence of useless +sorrow. Like the royal bard, I knew that I should to him, but he +could not return to me, and I knew not whether an hour would pass +before my summons might arrive. Lifting him therefore upon a +cart, I had him carried down to head-quarter house, now converted +into an hospital, and having dug for him a grave at the bottom of +the garden, I laid him there as a soldier should be laid, +arrayed, not in a shroud, but in his uniform. Even the privates +whom I brought with me to assist at his funeral mingled their +tears with mine, nor are many so fortunate as to return to the +parent dust more deeply or more sincerely lamented. + +FIELD OF BATTLE--HOSPITAL. + +Retiring from the performance of this melancholy duty, I strolled +into the hospital and visited the wounded. It is here that war +loses its grandeur and show, and presents only a real picture of +its effects. Every room in the house was crowded with wretches +mangled, and apparently in the most excruciating agonies. +Prayers, groans, and, I grieve to add, the most horrid +exclamations, smote upon the ear wherever I turned. Some lay at +length upon straw, with eyes half closed and limbs motionless; +some endeavoured to start up, shrieking with pain, while the +wandering eye and incoherent speech of others indicated the loss +of reason, and usually foretold the approach of death. But +there was one among the rest whose appearance was too horrible +ever to be forgotten. He had been shot through the windpipe, +and the breath making its way between the skin and the flesh had +dilated him to a size absolutely terrific. His head and face were +particularly shocking. Every feature was enlarged beyond what can +well be imagined; whilst his eyes were so completely hidden by +the cheeks and forehead as to destroy all resemblance to a human +countenance. + +Passing through the apartments where the private soldiers lay, +I next came to those occupied by officers. Of these there +were five or six in one small room, to whom little better +accommodation could be provided than to their inferiors. It was +a sight peculiarly distressing, because all of them chanced to be +personal acquaintances of my own. One had been shot in the head, +and lay gasping and insensible; another had received a musket- +ball in the belly, which had pierced through and lodged in the +backbone. The former appeared to suffer but little, giving no +signs of life, except what a heavy breathing produced; the latter +was in the most dreadful agony, screaming out, and gnawing the +covering under which he lay. There were many besides these, some +severely and others slightly hurt; but as I have already dwelt at +sufficient length upon a painful subject, I shall only observe, +that to all was afforded every assistance which circumstances +would allow, and that the exertions of their medical attendants +were such as deserved and obtained the grateful thanks of even +the most afflicted among the sufferers themselves. + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +ADVANCE. + +IN the mean time the rest of the troops were landing as fast as +possible, and hastening to join their comrades. Though the +advance had set out from Pine Island by themselves, they did not +occupy all the boats in the fleet. Part of the second brigade, +therefore, had embarked about twelve hours after their departure; +and rowing leisurely on, were considerably more than half way +across the lakes when the action began. In the stillness of +night, however, it is astonishing at what distance a noise is +heard. Though they must have been at least twenty miles from +the Bayo when the schooner first opened her fire, the sound +reaching them roused the rowers from their indolence, who, pulling +with all their might, hurried on, whilst the most profound silence +reigned among the troops, and, gaining the creek in little more an +three hours, sent fresh reinforcements to share in the danger and +glory of the night. + +Nor was a moment lost by the sailors in returning to the island. +Intelligence of the combat spread like wildfire; the boats were +loaded even beyond what was strictly safe, and thus, by exerting +themselves in a degree almost unparalleled, our gallant seamen +succeeded in bringing the whole army into position before dark on +the 24th. The second and third brigades, therefore, now took up +their ground upon the spot where the late battle had been fought, +and, resting their right upon the woody morass, extended so far +towards the river, as that the advance by by wheeling up might +continue the line across the entire plain. + +But instead of taking part in this formation, the advance was +still fettered to the bank, from which it was additionally +prevented from moving by the arrival of another large ship, +which, cast anchor about a mile above the schooner. Thus were +three battalions kept stationary by the guns of these two +formidable floating batteries, and it was clear that no attempt +to extricate them could be made without great loss, unless under +cover of night. During the whole of the 24th, therefore, they +remained in this uncomfortable situation; but as soon as darkness +had well set in, a change of position was effected. Withdrawing +the troops, company by company, from behind the bank, General +Keane stationed them in the village of huts, by which means the +high road was abandoned to the protection of a piquet, and the +left of the army covered by a large chateau. + +Being now placed beyond risk of serious annoyance from the +shipping whole army remained quiet for the night. How long we +were to continue in this state nobody appeared to know; not +whisper was circulated as to the time of advancing, nor a surmise +ventured respecting the next step likely to be taken. In our to +whose rumours we had before listened with avidity, no confidence +was reposed. It was quite evident, either that they had +purposely deceived us, or that their information was gathered +from a most imperfect source; and hence, though they were not +exactly placed in confinement, they were strictly watched, and +treated more like spies than deserters. Instead of an easy +conquest, we had already met with a vigorous opposition; instead +of finding the inhabitants ready and eager to join us, we found +the houses deserted, the cattle and horses driven away, and every +appearance of hostility. To march by the only road was rendered +impracticable; so completely was it commanded by the shipping. +In a word, all things had turned out diametrically opposite to +what had been anticipated; and it appeared that, instead of a +trifling affair more likely to fill our pockets than to add to +our renown, we had embarked in an undertaking which presented +difficulties not to be surmounted without patience and +determination. + +Having effected this change of position, and covered the front of +his army with a strong chain of outposts, General Keane, as I +have said, remained quiet during the remainder of the night, and +on the morrow was relieved from further care and responsibility +by the unexpected arrival of Sir Edward Pakenham and General +Gibbs. As soon as the death of Ross was known in London, the +former of these officers was dispatched to take upon himself the +command of the army. Sailing immediately with the latter as his +second in command, he had been favoured during the whole voyage +by a fresh and fair wind, and now arrived in time to see his +troops brought into a predicament from which all his abilities +could scarcely expect to extricate them. Nor were the troops +themselves ignorant of the unfavourable circumstances in which +they stood. Hoping everything, therefore, from a change, they +greeted their new leader with a hearty cheer; whilst the +confidence which past events had tended in some degree to dispel, +returned once more to the bosoms of all. It was Christmas-day, +and a number of officers, clubbing their little stock of +provisions, resolved to dine together in memory of former times. +But at so melancholy a Christmas dinner I do not recollect at any +time to have been present. We dined in a barn; of plates, +knives, and forks, there was a dismal scarcity; nor could our +fare boast of much either in intrinsic good quality or in the way +of cooking. These, however, were mere matters of merriment; it +was the want of many well-known and beloved faces that gave us +pain; nor were any other subjects discussed besides the amiable +qualities of those who no longer formed part of our mess, and +never would again form part of it. A few guesses as to the +probable success of future attempts alone relieved this topic, +and now and then a shot from the schooner drew our attention to +ourselves; for though too far removed from the river to be in +much danger, we were still within cannon-shot of our enemy. Nor +was she inactive in her attempts to molest. Elevating her guns +to a great degree, she contrived occasionally to strike the wall +of the building within which we sat; but the force of the ball +was too far spent to penetrate, and could therefore produce no +serious alarm. + +Whilst we were thus sitting at table a loud shriek was heard +after one of these explosions, and on running out we found that a +shot had taken effect in the body of an unfortunate soldier. I +mention this incident because I never beheld in any human being +so great a tenacity of life. Though fairly cut in two at the +lower part of the belly, the poor wretch lived for nearly an +hour, gasping for breath and giving signs even of pain. + +But to return to my narrative. As soon as he reached the camp +Sir Edward proceeded to examine with a soldier's eye every point +and place within view. Of the American army nothing, whatever +could be perceived except a corps of observation, composed of +five or six hundred mounted riflemen, which hovered along our +front and watched our motions. The town itself was completely +hid; nor was it possible to see beyond the distance of a very few +miles either in front or rear, so flat and unbroken was the face +of the country. Under these circumstances little insight into +the state of affairs could be obtained by reconnoitring. The +only, thing, indeed, which he could learn from it was, that while +the vessels kept their present station upon river no advance +could be made; and as he felt that every moment's delay was +injurious to us and favourable to the enemy, he resolved to remove +these incumbrances and to push forward as soon as possible. + +With this view nine field-pieces, two howitzers, and one mortar +were brought down to the brink of the stream as soon as it dark. +Working parties were likewise ordered out, by whom was thrown up +opposite to the schooner; and having got all things in readiness, +at dawn on the 26th a heavy cannonade was opened upon her with +red-hot shot. It was not long before we could perceive her crew +hastening into their boats, whilst the smoke which began to rise +from her decks proved that the balls had taken effect. She was, +in fact, on fire, and being abandoned without resistance, in +little more than an hour she blew up. In itself the sight was a +fine one, but to us it was peculiarly gratifying, for we could +not but experience something like satiated revenge at the +destruction of a vessel from which we had suffered so much +damage. A loud shout accordingly followed the explosion, and the +guns were immediately turned against the ship. But the fate of +her companion had warned her not to remain till she herself +should be attacked. Setting every inch of canvas, and hoisting +out her boats, she began, to stem the stream at the very instant +the schooner took fire, and being impelled forward both by towing +and sailing, she succeeded in getting beyond the range of shot +before the guns could be brought to bear. One shell, however, +was thrown with admirable precision, which falling upon her deck +caused considerable execution; but excepting this, she escaped +without injury, and did not anchor again till she had got too far +for pursuit. + +Having thus removed all apparent obstacles to his future +progress, the General made dispositions for a speedy advance. +Dividing the army into two columns, he appointed General Gibbs to +the command of one, and General Keane to the command of the +other. The left column, led on by the latter officer, consisted +of the 95th, the 85th, the 93rd, and one black corps; the right, +of the 4th, 21st, 44th, and the other black corps. The +artillery, of which we had now ten pieces in the field, though +at present attached to the left column, was designed to act as +circumstances and the nature of the ground would permit; whilst +the dragoons, few of whom had as yet provided themselves with +horses, were appointed to guard the hospitals, and to secure the +wounded from any sudden surprise or molestation from the rear. + +But the day was too far spent in making these arrangements, and +in clearing the way for future operations, to permit any movement +before the morrow. The whole of the 26th was therefore spent in +bringing up stores, ammunition, and a few heavy guns from the +ships, which being placed in battery upon the banks of the river, +secured us against the return of our floating adversary. All +this was done quietly enough, nor was there any cause of alarm +till after sunset; but from that time till towards dawn, we were +kept in a constant state of anxiety and agitation. Sending down +small bodies of riflemen, the American General harassed our +piquets, killed and wounded a few of the sentinels, and prevented +the main body from obtaining any sound refreshing sleep. +Scarcely had the troops lain down when they were roused by a +sharp firing at the outposts, which lasted only till they were in +order, and then ceased; but as soon as they had dispersed and had +once more addressed themselves to repose, the same cause of alarm +returned, and they were again called to their ranks. Thus was +the entire night spent in watching, or at best in broken and +disturbed slumbers, than which nothing is more trying, both to +the health and spirits of an army. + +With the piquets, again, it fared even worse. For the outposts +of an army to sleep is at all times considered as a thing +impossible; but in modern and civilized warfare they are +nevertheless looked upon as in some degree sacred. Thus, whilst +two European armies remain inactively facing each other, the +outposts of neither are molested, unless a direct attack upon the +main body be intended; nay, so far is this tacit good +understanding carried, that I have myself seen French and English +sentinels not more than twenty yards apart. But the Americans +entertained no such chivalric notions. An enemy was to them an +enemy, whether alone or in the midst of five thousand companions; +and they therefore counted the death of every individual as so +much taken from the strength of the whole. In point of fact they +no doubt reasoned correctly, but to us at least it appeared an +ungenerous return to barbarity. Whenever they could approach +unperceived within proper distance of our watch-fires, six or +eight riflemen would fire amongst the party that sat around them, +while one or two, stealing as close to each sentinel as a regard +to their own safety would permit, acted the part of assassins +rather than that of soldiers, and attempted to murder him in cold +blood. For the officers, likewise, when going their rounds, they +constantly lay in wait, and thus, by a continued dropping fire, +they not only wounded some of those against whom their aim was +directed, but occasioned considerable anxiety and uneasiness +throughout the whole line. + +It was on this night, and under these circumstances, that I was +indebted to the vigilance of my faithful dog for my life. Amid +all the bustle of landing, and throughout the tumult of the +nocturnal battle, she never strayed from me; at least if she did +lose me for a time, she failed not to trace me out again as soon +as order was restored, for I found her by my side when the dawn +of the 24th came in, and I never lost sight of her afterwards. +It was my fortune on the night of the 26th to be put in charge of +an outpost on the left front of the army; on such occasions I +seldom experienced the slightest inclination to sleep; and on the +present, I made it a point to visit my sentinels at least once in +every, half-hour. Going my rounds for this purpose, it was +necessary that I should pass a little copse of low underwood, +just outside the line of our videttes; and I did pass it again +and again, without meeting with any adventure. But about an hour +after midnight, my dog, which, as usual, trotted a few paces +before me, suddenly stopped short at the edge of the thicket, and +began to bark violently, and in great apparent anger. I knew the +animal well enough to be aware that some cause must exist for +such conduct; and I too stopped short, till I should ascertain +whether danger were near. It was well for me that I had been +thus warned; for at the instant of my halting, about half a dozen +muskets were discharged from the copse, the muzzles of which, had +I taken five steps forward, must have touched my body. The balls +whizzed harmlessly past my head; and, on my returning the fire +with the pistol which I carried in my hand, the ambuscade broke +up, and the party composing it took to their heels. I was +Quixote enough to dash sword in hand into the thicket after them: +but no one waited for me; so I continued my perambulations in +peace. + +MARCH. + +Having continued this detestable system of warfare till towards +morning, the enemy retired and left us at rest. But as soon as +day began to break, our piquets were called in, and the troops +formed in order of attack. The right column, under General +Gibbs, took post near the skirts of the morass, throwing out +skirmishers half way across the plain, whilst the left column +drew up upon the road covered by the rifle corps, which in +extended order met the skirmishers from the other. With this last +division went the artillery, already well supplied with +horses; and, at the signal given the whole moved forward. + +It was a clear frosty morning, the mists had dispersed, and the +sun shone brightly upon our arms when we began our march. The +enemy's corps of observation fell back as we advanced, without +offering in any way to impede our progress, and it was impossible +to guess, ignorant as we were of the position of his main body, +at what moment opposition might be expected. Nor, in truth, was +it matter of much anxiety. Our spirits, in spite of the troubles +of the night, were good, and our expectations of success were +high, consequently many rude jests were bandied about, and many +careless words spoken: for soldiers are, of all classes of men, +the freest from care, and on that account, perhaps, the most +happy. By being continually exposed to it, danger, with them, +ceases to be frightful; of death they have no more terror than the +beasts that perish; and even hardships, such as cold, wet, +hunger, and broken rest, lose at least part of their +disagreeableness, by the frequency of their recurrence. + +Moving on in this merry mood, we advanced about four or five +miles without the smallest check or hindrance; when, at length, +we found ourselves in view of the enemy's army, posted in a very +advantageous manner. About forty yards in their front was a +canal, which extended from the morass to within a short distance +of the high road. Along their line were thrown up breastworks, +not indeed completed, but even now formidable. Upon the road at +several other points were erected powerful batteries; whilst the +ship, with a large flotilla of gun-boats, flanked the whole +position from the river. + +ATTACK. + +When I say that we came in sight of the enemy, I do not mean that +he was gradually exposed to us in such a manner as to leave time +for cool examination and reflection. On the right, indeed, he +was seen for some time, but on the left a few houses built at a +turning in the road entirely concealed him; nor was it till they +gained that turning, and beheld the muzzles of his guns pointed +towards them, that those who moved in this direction were aware +of their proximity to danger. But that danger was indeed near +they were quickly taught; for scarcely had the head of the column +passed the houses when a deadly fire was opened from both the +battery and the shipping. That the Americans are excellent +marksmen, as well with artillery as with rifles, we have had +frequent cause to acknowledge; but, perhaps, on no occasion did +they assert their claim to the title of good artillery-men more +effectually than on the present. Scarce a ball passed over or +fell short of its mark, but all striking full into the midst of +our ranks, occasioned terrible havoc. The shrieks of the +wounded, therefore, the crash of firelocks, and the fall of such +as were killed; caused at first some little confusion; and what +added to the panic was, that from the houses beside which we +stood bright flames suddenly burst out. The Americans, expecting +this attack, had filled them with combustibles for the purpose; +and directing against them one or two guns, loaded with red-hot +shot, in an instant set them on fire. The scene was altogether +very sublime. A tremendous cannonade mowed down our ranks, and +deafened us with its roar; whilst two large chateaux and their +outbuildings almost scorched us with the flames, and blinded us +with the smoke which they emitted. + +The infantry, however, was not long suffered to remain thus +exposed; but being ordered to quit the path and to form line in +the fields, the artillery was brought up, and opposed to that of +the enemy. But the contest was in every respect unequal, since +their artillery far exceeded ours, both in numerical strength and +weight of metal. The consequence was, that in half an hour two +of our field-pieces and one field-mortar were dismounted: many of +the gunners were killed; and the rest, after an ineffectual +attempt to silence the fire of the shipping, were obliged to +retire. + +In the mean time the infantry having formed line, advanced under +a heavy discharge of round and grape shot, till they were checked +by the appearance of the canal. Of its depth they were of course +ignorant, and to attempt its passage without having ascertained +whether it could be forded might have been productive of fatal +consequences. A halt was accordingly ordered, and the men were +commanded to shelter themselves as well as they could from the +enemy's fire. For this purpose they were hurried into a wet +ditch, of sufficient depth to cover the knees, where, leaning +forward, they concealed themselves behind some high rushes which +grew upon its brink, and thus escaped many bullets which fell +around them in all directions. + +RETREAT. + +Thus fared it with the left of the army, whilst the right, though +less exposed to the cannonade, was not more successful in its +object. The same impediment which checked one column forced the +other likewise to pause; and after having driven in an advanced +body of the enemy, and endeavoured, without effect, to penetrate +through the marsh, it also was commanded to halt. In a word, all +thought of attacking was for this day abandoned; and it now only +remained to withdraw the troops from their present perilous +situation, with as little loss as possible. + +The first thing to be done was to remove the dismounted guns. +Upon this enterprise a party of seamen were employed, who, +running forward to the spot where they lay, lifted them, in spite +of the whole of the enemy's fire, and bore them off in triumph. +As soon as this was effected, regiment after regiment stole away; +not in a body, but one by one, under the same discharge which +saluted their approach. But a retreat thus conducted necessarily +occupied much time. Noon had therefore long passed before the +last corps was brought off; and when we again began to muster +twilight was approaching. We did not, however, retire to our +former position; but having fallen back only about two miles from +the canal, where it was supposed that we should be beyond reach +of annoyance from the American artillery, we there established +ourselves for the night, having suffered less during the day than, +from our exposed situation and the enemy's heavy fire, might have +been expected. + +The ground which we now occupied resembled, in almost every +particular, that which we had quitted. We again extended across +the plain, from the marsh to the river; no wood or cover of any +description concealing our line, or obstructing the view of either +army; while both in front and rear was an open space, laid out in +fields and intersected by narrow ditches. Our outposts, however +were pushed forward to some houses within a few hundred yards of +the enemy's works, sending out advanced sentinels even farther; +and the head-quarters of the army were established near the spot +where the action of the 23rd had been fought. + +PREPARATIONS. + +In this state we remained during the 28th, the 29th, and 30th, +without any efforts being made to fortify our own position, or to +annoy that of the enemy. Some attempts were, I believe, set on +foot to penetrate into the wood on the right of our line, and to +discover a path through the morass, by which the enemy's left +might be turned. But all of these proved fruitless, and a few +valuable lives having been sacrificed, the idea was finally laid +aside. In the meanwhile the American General directed the whole +of his attention to the strengthening of his post. Day and night +we could observe numerous parties at work upon his lines, whilst +from the increased number of tents, which almost every hour might +be discerned, it was evident that strong reinforcements were +continually pouring into his camp. Nor did he leave us totally +unmolested. By giving to his guns a great degree of elevation, +he contrived at last to reach our bivouac; and thus were we +constantly under a cannonade which, though it did little +execution, proved nevertheless extremely annoying. Besides this, +he now began to erect batteries on the opposite bank of the +river; from which a flanking fire could be thrown across the +entire front of his position. In short, he adopted every +precaution which prudence could suggest, and for the reception of +which the nature of his ground was so admirably adapted. + +Under these circumstances it was evident that the longer an +attack was delayed the less likely was it to succeed; that +something must be done immediately every one perceived, but how +to proceed was the difficulty. If we attempted to storm the +American lines, we should expose ourselves to almost certain +destruction from their artillery; to turn them was impossible; +and to draw their troops by any manoeuvring from behind their +entrenchments was a thing altogether out of the question. There +seemed therefore to be but one practicable mode of assault; which +was, to treat these field-works as one would treat a regular +fortification; by erecting breaching batteries against them, and +silencing, if it were possible, at least some of their guns. To +this plan, therefore, our leader had recourse; and, in +consequence, the whole of these three days were employed in +landing heavy cannon, bringing up ammunition, and making such +preparations as might have sufficed for a siege. + +At length, having completed his arrangements, and provided such +means as were considered sufficient to ensure success, General +Pakenham determined to commence operations without delay. One +half of the army was accordingly ordered out on the night of the +31st, and marched to the front, passing the piquets, and halting +about three hundred yards from the enemy's line. Here it was +resolved to throw up a chain of works; and here the greater part +of this detachment, laying down their firelocks, applied +themselves vigorously to their tasks, whilst the rest stood +armed and prepared for their defence. + +The night was dark, and our people maintained a profound silence; +by which means, not an idea of what was going on existed in the +American camp. As we laboured, too, with all diligence, six +batteries were completed long before dawn, in which were mounted +thirty pieces of heavy cannon; when, falling back a little way, +we united ourselves to the remainder of the infantry, and lay +down behind some rushes, in readiness to act, as soon as we +should be wanted. + +In the erection of these batteries, a circumstance occurred +worthy of notice, on account of its singularity. I have already +stated that the whole of this district was covered with the +stubble of sugar-cane; and I might have added, that every +storehouse and barn, attached to the different mansions scattered +over it, was filled with barrels of sugar. In throwing up these +works, the sugar was used instead of earth. Rolling the +hogsheads towards the front, they were placed upright in the +parapets of batteries; and it was computed that sugar to the +value of many thousand pounds sterling was thus disposed of. + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +PREPARATIONS--ATTACK. + +THE infantry having retired, and the gunners taken their station, +dawn was anxiously expected. But the morning of the 1st of January +chanced to be peculiarly gloomy. A thick haze obscured for a +long time the rays of the sun, nor could objects be discerned +with any accuracy till a late hour. + +But at length the mist gave way, and the American camp was fully +exposed to view. Being at this time only three hundred yards +distant, we could perceive all that was going forward with great +exactness. The different regiments were upon parade; and being +dressed in holiday suits, presented really a fine appearance. +Mounted officers were riding backwards and forwards through the, +ranks, bands were playing, and colours floating in the air; in a +word, all seemed jollity and gala; when suddenly our batteries +opened, and the face of affairs was instantly changed. The ranks +were broken; the different corps dispersing, fled in all +directions, whilst the utmost terror and disorder appeared to +prevail. Instead of nicely-dressed lines, nothing but confused +crowds could now be observed; nor was it without much difficulty +that order was finally restored. Oh, that we had charged at that +instant! + +RETREAT--PAUSE. + +Whilst this consternation prevailed among the infantry, their +artillery remained silent; but as soon as the former rallied, +they also recovered confidence, and answered our salute with +great rapidity and precision. A heavy cannonade quickly commenced +on both sides, and continued during the whole of the day; till, +towards evening, our ammunition began to fail, and our fire in +consequence to slacken. The fire of the Americans, on the other +hand, was redoubled: landing a number of guns from the flotilla, +they increased their artillery to a prodigious amount; and +directing at the same time the whole force of their cannon on the +opposite bank against the flank of our batteries, they soon +convinced us that all endeavours to surpass them in this mode of +fighting would be useless. Once more, therefore, were we obliged +to retire, leaving our heavy guns to their fate; but as no +attempt was made by the Americans to secure them, working parties +were again sent out after dark, and such as had not been +destroyed were removed. + +Of the fatigue undergone during these operations by the whole +army, from the General down to the meanest sentinel, it would be +difficult to form an adequate conception. For two whole nights +and days not a man had closed an eye, except such as were cool +enough to sleep amidst showers of cannon-ball; and during the day +scarcely a moment had been allowed in which we were able so much +as to break our fast. We retired, therefore, not only baffled +and disappointed, but in some degree disheartened and +discontented. All our plans had as yet proved abortive; even +this, upon which so much reliance had been placed, was found to +be of no avail; and it must be confessed that something like +murmuring began to be heard through the camp. And, in truth, if +ever an army might be permitted to murmur, it was this. In +landing they had borne great hardships, not only without +repining, but with cheerfulness; their hopes had been excited by +false reports, as to the practicability of the attempt in which +they were embarked; and now they found themselves entangled +amidst difficulties from which there appeared to be no escape, +except by victory. In their attempts upon the enemy's line, +however, they had been twice foiled; in artillery they perceived +themselves to be so greatly overmatched, that their own could +hardly assist them; their provisions, being derived wholly from +the fleet, were both scanty and coarse; and their rest was +continually broken. For not only did the canon and mortars from +the main of the enemy's position play unremittingly upon them +both by day and night, but they were likewise exposed to a deadly +fire from the opposite bank of the river, where no less than +eighteen pieces of artillery were now mounted, and swept the +entire line of our encampment. Besides all this, to undertake +the duty of a piquet was as dangerous as to go into action. +Parties of American sharpshooters harassed and disturbed those +appointed to that service from the time they took possession of +their post till they were relieved; whilst to light fires at +night was impossible, because they served but as certain marks +for the enemy's gunners. I repeat, therefore, that a little +murmuring could not be wondered at. Be it observed, however, +that these were not the murmurs of men anxious to escape from a +disagreeable situation by any means. On the contrary, they +resembled rather the growling of a chained dog, when he sees his +adversary and cannot reach him; for in all their complaints, no +man ever hinted at a retreat, whilst all were eager to bring +matters to the issue of a battle, at any sacrifice of loves. + +Nor was our gallant leader less anxious to fight than his +followers. To fight upon something like equal terms was, +however, his wish; and for this purpose a new scheme was +invented, worthy, for its boldness, of the school in which Sir +Edward had studied his profession. It was determined to divide +the army, to send part across the river, who should seize the +enemy's guns, and turn them on themselves; whilst the remainder +should at time make a general assault along the whole +entrenchment. But before this plan could be put into execution, +it would be necessary to cut a canal across the entire neck of +land from the Bayo de Catiline to the river, of sufficient width +and depth to admit of boats being brought up from the lake. Upon +this arduous undertaking were the troops immediately employed. +Being divided into four companies, they laboured by turns, day +and night; one party relieving another after a stated number of +hours, in such order as that the work should never be entirely +deserted. The fatigue undergone during the prosecution of this +attempt no words can sufficiently describe; yet it was pursued +without repining, and at length, by unremitting exertions, they +succeeded in effecting their purpose by the 6th of January. + +Whilst these things were going on, and men's minds were anxiously +turned towards approaching events, fresh spirit was given to the +army by the unexpected arrival of Major-General Lambert, with +the 7th and 43rd; two fine battalions, mustering each 800 +effective men. By this reinforcement, together with the addition +of a body of sailors and marines from the fleet, our numbers +amounted now to little short of 6000 men; a force which, in +almost any other quarter of America, would have been +irresistible. Of the numbers of the enemy, again, various +reports were in circulation; some stating them at 20,000, others +at 30,000; but I believe that I come nearer the truth when I +suppose their whole force to have comprised 12,000 men of all +arms. It is, at least, certain that they exceeded us in numbers +as much as they did in resources; and that scarcely an hour +passed which did not bring in new levies to their camp. + +The canal, as I have stated, being finished on the 6th, it was +resolved to lose no time in making use of it. Boats were +accordingly ordered up for the transportation of 1400 men; and +Colonel Thornton, with the 85th regiment, the marines, and a +party of sailors, was appointed to cross the river. But a number +of untoward accidents occurred, to spoil a plan of operations as +accurately laid down as any in the course of the war. The soil +through which the canal was dug being soft, part of the bank gave +way, and, choking up the channel, prevented the heaviest of the +boats from getting forward. These again blocked up the passage, +so that none of those which were behind could proceed; and thus, +instead of a flotilla for the accommodation of 1400 men, only a +number of boats sufficient to contain 350 was enabled to reach +their destination. Even these did not arrive at the time +appointed. According to the preconcerted plan, Colonel +Thornton's detachment was to cross the river immediately after +dark. They were to push forward, so as to carry all the +batteries, and point the guns before daylight; when, on the +throwing up of a rocket, they were to commence firing upon the +enemy's line, which at the same moment was to be attacked by the +main off our army. + +In this manner was one part of the force to act, whilst the rest +thus appointed:--Dividing his troops into three columns, Sir +Edward directed that General Keane, at the head of the 95th, the +light companies of the 21st, 4th, and 44th, together with the two +black corps, should make a demonstration, or sham attack, upon +the right; that General Gibbs, with the 4th, 21st, 44th, and +93rd, should force the enemy's left, whilst General Lambert, with +the 7th and 43rd, remained in reserve, ready to act as +circumstances might require. But in storming an entrenched +position, something more than bare courage is required. Scaling +ladders and fascines had, therefore, been prepared, with which to +fill up the ditch and mount the wall; and since to carry these a +service of danger, requiring a corps well worthy of dependence, +the 44th was for that purpose selected, as a regiment of +sufficient numerical strength, and already accustomed to American +warfare. Thus were all things arranged on the night the 7th, for +the 8th was fixed upon as the day decisive of the fate of New Orleans. + +ATTACK. + +Whilst the rest of the army lay down to sleep till they should be +roused up to fight, Colonel Thornton, with the 85th, and a corps +of marines and seamen, amounting in all to 1400 men, moved down +to the brink of the river. As yet, however, no boats had +arrived; hour after hour elapsed before they came; and when they +did come, the misfortunes which I have stated above were +discovered, for out of all that had been ordered up, only a few +made their appearance. Still it was absolutely necessary that +this part of the plan should be carried into execution. +Dismissing, therefore, the rest of his followers, the Colonel +put himself at the head of his own regiment, about fifty seamen, +and as many marines, and with this small force, consisting of no +[on] 340 men, pushed off. But, unfortunately, the loss of time +nothing could repair. Instead of reaching the opposite bank at +latest by midnight, dawn was beginning to appear before the boats +quitted the canal. It was in vain that they rowed on in perfect +silence, and with oars muffled, gaining the point of debarkation +without being perceived. It was in vain that they made good +their landing and formed upon the beach, without opposition or +alarm; day had already broke, and the signal-rocket was seen in +the air, while they were yet four miles from the batteries, which +ought hours ago to have been taken. + +In the mean time, the main body armed and moved forward some way +in front of the piquets. There they stood waiting for daylight, +and listening with the greatest anxiety for the firing which +ought now to be heard on the opposite bank. But their attention +was exerted in vain, and day dawned upon them long before they +desired its appearance. Nor was Sir Edward Pakenham disappointed +in this part of his plan alone. Instead of perceiving everything +in readiness for the assault, he saw his troops in battle array, +but not a ladder or fascine upon the field. The 44th, which was +appointed to carry them, had either misunderstood or neglected +their orders; and now headed the column of attack, without any +means being provided for crossing the enemy's ditch or scaling +his rampart. + +The indignation of our brave leader on this occasion may be +imagined, but cannot be described. Galloping towards Colonel +Mullens, who led the 44th, he commanded him instantly to return +with his regiment for the ladders, but the opportunity of +planting them was lost, and though they were brought up, it was +only to be scattered over the field by the frightened bearers. +For our troops were by this time visible to the enemy. A +dreadful fire was accordingly opened upon them, and they were +mowed down by hundreds, while they stood waiting for orders. + +Seeing that all his well-laid plans were frustrated, Pakenham +gave the word to advance, and the other regiments, leaving the +44th with the ladders and fascines behind them, rushed on to the +assault. On the left, a detachment under Colonel Rennie, of the +21st regiment, stormed a three-gun battery, and took it. Here +they remained for some time in expectation of support; but none +arriving, and a strong column of the enemy forming for its +recovery, they determined to anticipate the attack, and pushed +on. The battery which they had taken was in advance of the body +of the works, being cut off from it by a ditch, across which only +a single plank was thrown. Along this plank did these brave men +attempt to pass; but being opposed by overpowering numbers, they +were repulsed; and the Americans, in turn, forcing their way into +the battery, at length succeeded in recapturing it with immense +slaughter. On the right, again, the 21st and 4th, supported by +the 93rd, though thrown into some confusion by the enemy's fire, +pushed on with desperate gallantry to the ditch; but to scale the +parapet without ladders was a work of no slight difficulty. Some +few, indeed, by mounting one upon another's shoulders, succeeded +in entering the works, but these were speedily overpowered, most +of them killed, and the rest taken; whilst as many as stood +without were exposed to a sweeping fire, which cut them down by +whole companies. It was in vain that the most obstinate courage +was displayed. They fell by the hands of men whom they +absolutely did not see; for the Americans, without so much as +lifting their faces above the rampart, swung their firelocks by +one arm over the wall, and discharged them directly upon their +heads. The whole of the guns likewise, from the opposite bank, +kept up a well-directed wand deadly cannonade upon their flank; +and thus were they destroyed without an opportunity being given +of displaying their valour, or obtaining so much as revenge. + +Sir Edward saw how things were going, and did all that a general +could do to rally his broken troops. Riding towards the 44th, +which had returned to the ground, but in great disorder, he +called out for Colonel Mullens to advance; but that officer +disappeared, and was not to be found. He therefore prepared to +lead them on himself, and had put himself at their head for that +purpose, when he received a slight wound in the knee from a +musket-ball, which killed his horse. Mounting another, he again +headed the 44th, when a second ball took effect more fatally, and +he dropped lifeless into the arms of his aide-de-camp. + +Nor were Generals Gibbs and Keane inactive. Riding through the +ranks, they strove by all means to encourage the assailants and +recall the fugitives; till at length both were wounded, and borne +off the field. All was now confusion and dismay. Without +leaders, ignorant of what was to be done, the troops first halted +and then began to retire; till finally the retreat was changed +into a flight, and they quitted the ground in the utmost +disorder. But the retreat was covered in gallant style by the +reserve. Making a forward motion, the 7th and 43rd presented the +appearance of a renewed attack; by which the enemy were so much +awed, that they did not venture beyond their lines in pursuit of +the fugitives. + +Whilst affairs were thus disastrously conducted in this quarter, +the party under Colonel Thornton had gained the landing-place. +On stepping ashore, the first thing they beheld was a rocket +thrown up as a signal that the battle was begun. This unwelcome +sight added wings to their speed. Forming in one little column, +and pushing forward a single company as an advanced guard, they +hastened on, and in half an hour reached a canal, along the +opposite bank of which a detachment of Americans was drawn up. +To dislodge them was the work of a moment a boat, with a +carronade in her bow, got upon their flank, gave them a single +discharge of grape, whilst the advanced guard extended its ranks, +and approached at double-quick time. But they scarcely waited +till the latter were within range, when, firing a volley, they +fled in confusion. This, however, was only an outpost: the main +body was some way in rear, and amounted to no fewer than 1500 +men. + +It was not long, however, before they likewise presented +themselves. Like their countrymen on the other side, they were +strongly entrenched, a thick parapet with a ditch covering their +front; whilst a battery upon their left swept the whole +position, and two field-pieces commanded the road. Of artillery +the assailants possessed not a single piece, nor any means beyond +what nature supplied of scaling the rampart. Yet nothing daunted +by the obstacles before them, or by the immense odds to which +they were opposed, dispositions for an immediate attack were +made. The 85th, extending its files, stretched across the entire +line of the enemy; the sailors in column prepared to storm the +battery, whilst the marines remained some little way in rear of +the centre as a reserve. + +These arrangements being completed, the bugle sounded, and our +troops advanced. The sailors raising a shout, rushed forward, +but were met by so heavy a discharge of grape and canister that +for an instant they paused. Recovering themselves, however, they +again pushed on; and the 85th dashing forward to their aid, they +received a heavy fire of musketry, and endeavoured to charge. A +smart firing was now for a few minutes kept up on both sides, +but our people had no time to waste in distant fighting, and +accordingly hurried on to storm the works, upon which a panic +seized the Americans, they lost their order, and fled, leaving us +in possession of their tents and of eighteen pieces of cannon. + +In this affair our loss amounted to only three men killed and +about forty wounded, among the latter of whom was Colonel +Thornton. Nor could the loss on the part of the enemy greatly +exceed our own. Had they stood firm, indeed, it is hardly +conceivable that so small a force could have wrested an +entrenched position from numbers so superior; at least it could +not have been done without much bloodshed. But they were +completely surprised. An attack on this side was a circumstance +of which they had not dreamed; and when men are assaulted in a +point which they deem beyond the reach of danger, it is well +known that they defend themselves with less vigour than where +such an event was anticipated. + +When in the act of storming these lines the word was passed +through our ranks that all had gone well on the opposite bank. +This naturally added to the vigour of the assault; but we had +not followed our flying enemy above two miles when we were +commanded to halt. The real state of the case had now reached +us, and the same messenger who brought the melancholy news brought +likewise an order to return. + +The place where we halted was in rear of a canal, across which +was thrown a wooden bridge, furnishing apparently the only means +of passing. At the opposite end of this bridge stood a +collection of wooden cottages and one chateau of some size. Here +a company was stationed to serve the double purpose of a piquet +and a rear-guard; whilst the main body, having rested for half an +hour, began their march towards the point where they had landed. + +RE-EMBARKATION--THE CAMP. + +As soon as the column had got sufficiently on their way the +piquet likewise prepared to follow. But in doing so it was +evident that some risk must be run. The enemy having rallied, +began again to show a front; that is to say, parties of sixty or +a hundred men approached to reconnoitre. These, however, must be +deceived, otherwise a pursuit might be commenced, and the +re-embarkation of the whole corps hindered or prevented. It so +happened that the piquet in question was this day under my +command; as soon, therefore, as I received information that the +main body had commenced its retreat, I formed my men, and made a +show of advancing. The Americans perceiving this, fled; when, +wheeling about, we set fire to the chateau, and under cover of +the smoke destroyed the bridge and retreated. Making all haste +towards the rear, we overtook our comrades just as they had +begun to embark; when the little corps being once more united, +entered their boats, and reached the opposite bank without +molestation. + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +THE CAMP. + +As soon as the whole army was re-united, and the broken regiments +had recovered their order, a flag of truce was dispatched with +proposals for the burial of the dead. To accomplish this end a +truce of two days was agreed upon, and parties were immediately +sent out to collect and bury their fallen comrades. Prompted by +curiosity, I mounted my horse and rode to the front; but of all +the sights I ever witnessed, that which met me there was beyond +comparison the most shocking and the most humiliating. Within +the narrow compass of a few hundred yards were gathered together +nearly a thousand bodies, all of them arrayed in British +uniforms. Not a single American was among them; all were +English; and they were thrown by dozens into shallow holes, +scarcely deep enough to furnish them with a slight covering of +earth. Nor was this all. An American officer stood by smoking a +cigar, and apparently counting the slain with a look of savage +exultation, and repeating over and over to each individual that +approached him, that their loss amounted only, to eight men +killed and fourteen wounded. + +I confess that when I beheld the scene I hung down my head, half +in sorrow and half in anger. With my officious informant I had +every inclination to pick a quarrel; but he was on duty, and an +armistice existed, both of which forbade the measure. I could +not, however, stand by and repress my choler, and since to give +it vent would have subjected me to more serious inconvenience +than a mere duel, I turned my horse's head and galloped back to +the camp. + +But the change of expression visible there in every countenance +no language can portray. Only twenty hours ago, and all was life +and animation; wherever you went you were enlivened by the sound +of merriment and raillery; whilst the expected attack was +mentioned in terms indicative not only of sanguine hope, but, of +the most perfect confidence as to its result. Now gloom and +discontent everywhere prevailed. Disappointment, grief, +indignation, and rage, succeeded each other in all bosoms; nay, +so completely were the troops overwhelmed by a sense of disgrace, +that for awhile they retained their sorrow without so much as +hinting at its cause. Nor was this dejection occasioned wholly +by the consciousness of laurels tarnished. The loss of +comrades was to the full as afflicting as the loss of honour; for +out of more than 5000 men brought on this side into the field, no +fewer than 1500 had fallen. Among these were two generals (for +Gibbs survived his wound but a few hours), and many officers of +courage and ability; besides which, hardly an individual +survived who had not to mourn the loss of some particular +and well-known companion. + +Yet it is most certain that amidst all this variety of +conflicting passions no feeling bordering upon despair or even +terror found room. Even among the private soldiers no fear was +experienced; for if you attempted to converse with them on the +subject of the late defeat, they would end with a bitter curse +upon those to whose misconduct they attributed their losses, and +refer you to the future, when they hoped for an opportunity of +revenge. To the Americans they would allow no credit, laying the +entire blame of the failure upon certain individuals among +themselves; and so great was the indignation expressed against +one corps, that the soldiers of other regiments would hardly +exchange words with those who chanced to wear that uniform. +Though deeply afflicted, therefore, we were by no means +disheartened, and even, yet anticipated, with an eagerness far +exceeding what was felt before, a renewal of the combat. + +PREPARATIONS FOR RETREAT. + +But General Lambert, on whom the chief command had devolved, very +prudently determined not to risk the safety of his army by +another attempt upon works evidently so much beyond their +strength. He considered, and considered justly, that his chances +of success were in every respect lessened by the late repulse. +In the first place, an extraordinary degree of confidence was +given to the enemy; in the next place, the only feasible plan of +attack having been already tried, they would be more on their +guard to prevent its being again put in execution; and lastly, +his own force was greatly diminished in numbers, whilst theirs +continued every day to increase. Besides, it would be casting +all upon the hazard of a die. If again defeated, nothing could +save our army from destruction, because unless it retreated in +force no retreat could be effected. A retreat, therefore, whilst +yet the measure appeared practicable, was resolved upon, and +towards that end were all our future operations directed. + +To the accomplishment of this desirable object, however, one +great obstacle existed: by what road were the troops to travel, +and in what order were they to regain the fleet? On landing we +had taken advantage of the creek or bayo, and thus come up by +water within two miles of the cultivated country. But to adopt a +similar course in returning was impossible. In spite of our +losses there were not throughout the armament a sufficient number +of boats to transport above one-half of the army at a time. If, +however, we should separate, the chances were that both parties +would be destroyed; for those embarked might be intercepted, and +those left behind would be obliged to cope with the entire +American force. Besides, even granting that the Americans might +be repulsed, it would be impossible to take to our boats in their +presence, and thus at least one division, if not both, must be +sacrificed. + +To obviate this difficulty prudence required that the road which +we had formed on landing should be continued to the very margin +of the lake; whilst appearances seemed to indicate the total +impracticability of the scheme. From firm ground to the water's +edge was here a distance of many miles, through the very centre +of a morass where human foot had never before trodden. Yet it was +desirable at least to make the attempt; for if it failed we +should only be reduced to our former alternative of gaining a +battle or surrendering at discretion. + +Having determined to adopt this course, General Lambert +immediately dispatched strong working parties, under the guidance +of engineer officers, to lengthen the road, keeping as near as +possible to the margin of the creek. But the task assigned to +them was burthened with innumerable difficulties. For the extent +of several leagues no firm footing could be discovered on which +to rest the foundation of a path; nor any trees to assist in +forming hurdles. All that could be done, therefore, was to bind +together large quantities of reeds, and lay them across the +quagmire; by which means at least the semblance of a road was +produced, however wanting in firmness and solidity. But where +broad ditches came in the way, many of which intersected the +morass, the workmen were necessarily obliged to apply more +durable materials. For these, bridges composed in part of large +branches brought with immense labour from the woods, were +constructed; but they were, on the whole, little superior in +point of strength to the rest of the path, for though the edges +were supported by timber, the middle was filled up only with +reeds. + +To complete this road, bad as it was, occupied the space of nine +days, during which time our army remained in position without +making any attempt to molest the enemy. The Americans, however, +were not so inactive. In the course of two days six guns were +again mounted upon the bank of the river, from which a continual +fire was kept up upon our camp. The same mode of proceeding was +adopted in front, and thus, night and day, were we harassed by +danger against which there was no fortifying ourselves. Of the +extreme unpleasantness of our situation it is hardly possible to +convey any adequate conception. We never closed our eyes in +peace, for we were sure to be awakened before many minutes +elapsed, by the splash of a round shot or shell in the mud beside +us. Tents we had none, but lay, some in the open air, and some +in huts made of boards, or any materials that could be procured. +From the first moment of our landing not a man had undressed +excepting to bathe; and many had worn the same shirt for weeks +together, Besides all this, heavy rains now set in, accompanied +with violent storms of thunder and lightning, which lasting +during the entire day, usually ceased towards dark, and gave +place to keen frosts. Thus were we alternately wet and frozen: +wet all day, and frozen all night. With the outposts again there +was constant skirmishing. With what view the Americans wished to +drive them in I cannot tell; but every day were they attacked, +and compelled to maintain their ground by dint of hard fighting. +In one word, none but those who happened to belong to this army +can form a notion of the hardships which it endured and the +fatigue which it underwent. + +Nor were these the only evils which tended to lessen our numbers. +To our soldiers every inducement was held out by the enemy to +desert. Printed papers, offering lands and money as the price of +desertion, were thrown into the piquets, whilst individuals made +a practice of approaching our posts, and endeavouring to persuade +the very sentinels to quit their stations. Nor could it be +expected that bribes so tempting would always be refused. Many +desertions began daily to take place, and became before long so +frequent, that the evil rose to be of a serious nature. + +There occurred, however, one instance of magnanimous fidelity on +the part of a British soldier, which I cannot resist the +inclination of repeating. A private of the 95th, whose name I +should have joyfully mentioned had I not forgotten it, chanced +one day to stand sentinel, when he was addressed by an American +officer. The American offered him a hundred dollars and a +quantity of land if he would come over; representing, at the same +time, the superiority of a democratical government, and railing, +as these persons generally do, against the title of king. Though +the Englishman heard what was said distinctly enough, he +nevertheless pretended to be deaf, and begged his tempter to come +a little nearer, that, in his own words, "he might tell him all +about it." Jonathan, exulting at the prospect of drawing this +fine fellow from his duty, approached within twenty paces of +where he stood, when just as he had opened his mouth to renew his +offer, the sentinel levelled his piece and shot him through the +arm. Nor was he contented with inflicting this punishment. +Walking forward, he seized his wounded enemy, and reproaching him +with dishonourable dealings, brought him in a prisoner to the +camp. But, unhappily, conduct such as this was rare; in the +course of a week many men quitted their colours, and fled to the +enemy. + +RETREAT. + +In the mean time the whole of the wounded, except such as were +too severely hurt to be removed, were embarked upon the canal, +and sent off to the fleet. Next followed the baggage and stores, +with the civil officers, commissaries, purveyors, &c.; and last +of all, such of the light artillery as could be withdrawn with +out trouble or the risk of discovery. But of the heavy artillery, +of which about ten pieces were mounted in front of the bivouac, +and upon the bank of the river, no account was taken. They were +ship's guns, of little value, and extremely cumbersome; +consequently their removal, had it been practicable, would +scarcely have rewarded the trouble. It was therefore determined +to leave them behind; and they were accordingly permitted to +retain their stations to the last. + +These preparations being continued for some days, on the 17th no +part of our force remained in camp except the infantry. Having +therefore delayed only till the abandoned guns were rendered +unserviceable, on the evening of the 18th it also began its +retreat. Trimming the fires, and arranging all things in the same +order as if no change were to take place, regiment after regiment +stole away, as soon as darkness concealed their motions; leaving +the piquets to follow as a rear-guard, but with strict +injunctions not to retire till daylight began to appear. As may +be supposed, the most profound silence was maintained; not a man +opening his mouth, except to issue necessary orders, and even +then speaking in a whisper. Not a cough or any other noise was to +be heard from the head to the rear of the column; and even the +steps of the soldiers were planted with care, to prevent the +slightest stamping or echo. Nor was this extreme caution in any +respect unnecessary. In spite of every endeavour to the contrary, +a rumour of our intended movement had reached the Americans for +we found them of late watchful and prying, whereas they had been +formerly content to look only to themselves. + +For some time, that is to say, while our route lay along the high +road and beside the brink of the river, the march was agreeable +enough; but as soon as we began to enter upon the path through +the marsh all comfort was at an end. Being constructed of +materials so slight, and resting upon a foundation so infirm, the +treading of the first corps unavoidably beat it to pieces; those +which followed were therefore compelled to flounder on in the +best way they could; and by the time the rear of the column +gained the morass all trace of a way had entirely disappeared. +But not only were the reeds torn asunder and sunk by the pressure +of those who had gone before, but the bog itself, which at first +might have furnished a few spots of firm footing, was trodden +into the consistency of mud. The consequence was, that every +step sank us to the knees, and frequently higher. Near the +ditches, indeed, many spots occurred which we had the utmost +difficulty in crossing at all; and as the night was dark, there +being no moon, nor any light except what the stars supplied, it +was difficult to select our steps, or even to follow those who +called to us that they were safe on the opposite side. At one of +these places I myself beheld an unfortunate wretch gradually sink +till he totally disappeared. I saw him flounder in, heard his +cry for help, and ran forward with the intention of saving him; +but before I had taken a second step, I myself sank at once as +high as the breast. How I contrived to keep myself from +smothering is more than I can tell, for I felt no solid bottom +under me, and continued slowly to go deeper and deeper till the +mud reached my arms. Instead of endeavouring to help the poor +soldier, of whom nothing could now be seen except the head and +hands, I was forced to beg assistance for myself: when a leathern +canteen strap being thrown to me, I laid hold of it, and was +dragged out just as my fellow-sufferer became invisible. + +Over roads such as these did we continue our journey during the +whole of the night: and in the morning reached a place called +Fisherman's huts, upon the margin of the lake. The name is +derived from a clump of mud-built cottages, situated in as +complete a desert as the eye of man was ever pained by beholding. +They stand close to the water, upon a part of the morass rather +more firm than the rest. Not a tree or bush of any description +grows near them. As far as the eye could reach a perfect ocean +of reeds everywhere presented itself, except on that side where a +view of the lake changed without fertilizing the prospect. Were +any set of human beings condemned to spend their lives here, I +should consider their fate as little superior to that of the +solitary captive: but during many months of the year these huts +are wholly unoccupied, being erected, as their name denotes, +merely to shelter a few fishermen while the fishing season lasts. + +Here at length we were ordered to halt; and perhaps I never +rejoiced more sincerely at any order than at this. Wearied with +my exertions, and oppressed with want of sleep, I threw myself on +the ground without so much as pulling off my muddy garments, and +in an instant all my cares and troubles were forgotten. Nor did +I wake from that deep slumber for many hours, when I rose cold +and stiff, and creeping beside a miserable fire of reeds, +addressed myself to the last morsel of salt pork which my wallet +contained. + +HALT. + +The whole army had now come up, the piquets having escaped +without notice, or at least without annoyance. Forming along the +brink of the lake, a line of outposts was planted, and the +soldiers were commanded to make themselves as comfortable as they +could. But, in truth, the word comfort is one which cannot in +any sense be applied to people in such a situation. Without +tents or huts of any description (for the few from which the +place is named were occupied by the General and other heads of +departments), our bed was the morass, and our sole covering the +clothes which had not quitted our backs for upwards of a month. +Our fires, upon the size and goodness of which much of a +soldier's happiness depends, were composed solely of reeds; a +species of fuel which, like straw, soon blazes up, and soon +expires again, almost without communicating any degree of warmth. +But, above all, our provisions were expended, and from what +quarter to obtain an immediate supply it defied the most +inventive genius to discover. Our sole dependence was upon the +boats. Of these a flotilla lay ready to receive us, in which +were embarked the black corps, with the 44th; but they had +brought with them only food for their own use. It was therefore +necessary that they should reach the fleet and return again +before they could furnish us with what we so much wanted. But +the distance to the nearest of the shipping could not be less +than eighty miles; and if the weather should become boisterous or +the winds obstinately adverse we might starve before any supply +could arrive. + +These numerous grievances were, however, without remedy, and we +bore them with patience; though for two whole days the only +provisions issued to the troops were some crumbs of biscuit and a +small allowance of rum. For my own part I did not fare so badly +as many others. Having been always fond of shooting, I took a +firelock and went in pursuit of wild ducks, which abounded +throughout the bog. Wandering along in this quest I reached a +lake, by the margin of which I concealed myself and waited for my +prey; nor was it long before I had an opportunity of firing. +Several large flocks flew over me, and I was fortunate enough to +kill three birds. But, alas, those birds, upon which I had +already feasted in imagination, dropped into the water: my dog, +more tired than her master, would not fetch them out, and they +lay about twenty yards off, tantalizing me with the sight of a +treasure which I could not reach. Moving off to another point, I +again took my station where I hoped for better fortune; but the +same evil chance once more occurred, and the ducks fell into the +lake. This was too much for a hungry man to endure; the day was +piercingly cold, and the edge of the pool was covered with ice; +but my appetite was urgent, and I resolved at all hazards to +indulge it. Pulling off my clothes, therefore, I broke the ice +and plunged in; and though shivering like an aspen-leaf, I +returned safely to the camp with a couple of birds. Next day I +adopted a similar course with like success, but at the expense +of what was to me a serious misery. My stockings of warm wool +were the only part of my dress which I did not strip off, and +to-day it unfortunately happened that one was lost. Having +secured my ducks, I attempted to land where the bottom was muddy; +but my leg stuck fast, and in pulling it out off came the +stocking; to recover it was beyond my power, for the mud closed +over it directly, and the consequence was that till I regained +the transport only one of my feet could be warm at a time. To +those who can boast of many pairs of fine cotton and woollen +hose, this misfortune of mine may appear light, but to me, who +had only two stockings on shore, the loss of one was very +grievous; and I therefore request that I may not be sneered at +when I record it as one of the disastrous consequences of this +ill-fated expedition. + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +THE LAKE. + +AS soon as the boats returned, regiment after regiment embarked +and set sail for the fleet; but the distance being considerable +and the wind foul, many days elapsed before the whole could be +got off. Excepting in one trifling instance, however, no accident +occurred, and by the end of the month we were all once more on +board our former ships. But our return was far from +triumphant. We, who only seven weeks ago had set out in the +surest confidence of glory, and I may add of emolument, were +brought back dispirited and dejected. Our ranks were wofully +thinned, our chiefs slain, our clothing tattered and filthy, and +even our discipline in some degree injured. A gloomy silence +reigned throughout the armament, except when it was broken by the +voice of lamentation over fallen friends; and the interior of +each ship presented a scene well calculated to prove the +short-sightedness of human hope and human prudence. + +The accident to which I allude was the capture of a single boat +by the enemy. About thirty men of the 14th dragoons having +crowded into an unarmed barge, were proceeding slowly down the +lake, when a boat mounting a carronade in its bow suddenly darted +from a creek and made towards them. To escape was impossible, +for their barge was too heavily laden to move at a rate of even +moderate rapidity; and to fight was equally out of the question, +because of the superiority which their cannon gave to the Americans. +The whole party was accordingly compelled to surrender to six men +and an officer; and having thrown their arms into the lake, their +boat was taken in tow and they were carried away prisoners. + +This, however, was the only misfortune which occurred. Warned by +the fate of their comrades, the rest kept together in little +squadrons, each attended by one or more armed launches; and thus +rowing steadily on, they gained the shipping without so much as +another attempt at surprisal being made. + +On reaching the fleet, we found that a considerable reinforcement +of troops had arrived from England. It consisted of the 40th +foot, a fine regiment, containing nearly a thousand men, which, +ignorant of the fatal issue of our attack, had crossed the lakes +only to be sent back to the ships without so much as stepping on +shore. The circumstance, however, produced little satisfaction. +We felt that the coming of thrice the number could not recover +what was lost or recall past events; and therefore no rejoicing +was heard, nor the slightest regard paid to the occurrence. Nay, +so great was the despondency which had taken possession of men's +minds, that not even a rumour respecting the next point of attack +obtained circulation; whilst a sullen carelessness, a sort of +indifference as to what might happen, seemed to have succeeded +all our wonted curiosity and confidence of success in every +undertaking. + +THE LAKE--MOBILE. + +In this state we remained wind-bound till the 4th of February, +when, at length getting under weigh, the fleet ran down as far as +Cat Island. This is a spot of sandy soil at the mouth of the +lake, remarkable for nothing except a solitary Spanish family +which possesses it. Completely cut off from the rest of the +world, an old man, his wife, two daughters, and a son, dwell here +in apparent happiness and contentment. Being at least one +hundred and twenty miles from the main, it is seldom that their +little kingdom is visited by strangers; and I believe that till +our arrival the daughters, though grown up to womanhood, had seen +few faces besides those of their parents and brother. Their +cottage, composed simply of a few boughs, thatched and in-woven +with straw, is beautifully situated within a short distance of +the water. Two cows and a few sheep grazed beside it; whilst a +small tract of ground covered with stubble, and a little garden +well stocked with fruit-trees and vegetables, at once gave proof +of their industry, and showed the source from whence they +supplied themselves with bread. + +Having remained here till the 7th, we again took advantage of a +fair wind and stood to sea. As soon as we had cleared the lake, +we directed our course towards the east, steering, as it was +rumoured, upon Mobile; nor was it long before we came in sight of +the bay which bears that name. It is formed by a projecting +headland called Point Bayo, and a large island called Isle +Dauphin. Upon the first is erected a small fort, possessing the +same title with the promontory which commands the entrance; for +though the island is, at least five miles from the main, there is +no water for floating a ship of any burthen except within a few +hundred yards of the latter. The island is, like Cat Island, +uninhabited, except by one family, and unprovided with any works +of defence. + +SIEGE. + +As the attack of Mobile was professedly our object, it was clear +that nothing could be done previous to the reduction of the fort. +The ships accordingly dropped anchor at the mouth of the bay, and +immediate preparations were made for the siege. But the fort was +too inconsiderable in point of size to require the employment of +all our forces in its investment. Whilst one brigade, therefore, +was allotted to this service, the rest proceeded to establish +themselves on the island, where, carrying tents and other +conveniences on shore, the first regular encampment which we had +seen since our arrival in this hemisphere was formed. + +The spot of ground, of which we had now taken possession, +extended twelve miles in length, and from one to three in width. +Its soil is in general dry and sandy, well covered with grass, +and ornamented by continued groves of pine, cedar, oak, and +laurel. On one side only is there a swamp, but not of sufficient +size to contaminate the atmosphere of the whole, which is +considered so peculiarly healthy, that the place is generally +used as a depot for the sick in the American army. At present, +as I have said, it was tenanted by no more than a single family, +the master of which was a midshipman in the American navy, and +banished hither for some misdemeanor; but what was to us of much +greater importance, it was likewise stocked with cattle +resembling in appearance the black cattle of the Highlands of +Scotland, and not behind them in point of wildness. + +Whilst the remainder of the army spent their time here, the 4th, +21st, and 44th, being landed above the fort, were busied in the +siege. This small work stands, as I have stated, at the +extremity of a promontory. Towards the sea its fortifications +are respectable enough, but on the land side it is little better +than a blockhouse. The ramparts being composed of sand, not more +than three feet in thickness, are faced with plank barely +cannon-proof; whilst a sand-hill rising within pistol-shot of the +ditch, completely commands them. Within, again, the fort is as +much wanting in accommodation as it is in strength. There are no +bomb-proof barracks, nor any hole or arch under which men might +find protection from shells; indeed, so deficient is it in common +lodging-rooms, that a great part of the garrison slept in tents. +To reduce this place, therefore, occupied but a short time. The +troops having assembled on the 8th, drove the enemy within their +lines on the 9th, and broke ground the same evening. On the +10th, four eighteen-pounders with two howitzers were placed in +battery upon the top of the sand-hill; on the 11th, the fort +surrendered; and on the 12th, the garrison, consisting of four +hundred men of the second American regiment, marched out with all +the honours of war, and laid down their arms upon the glacis. + +PEACE. + +With the reduction of this trifling work ended all hostilities in +this quarter of America, for the army had scarcely re-assembled +when intelligence arrived from England of peace. The news +reached us on the 14th, and I shall not deny that it was received +with general satisfaction. Though war is the soldier's harvest, +yet it must be confessed, that when carried on as it had of late +been conducted, it is a harvest of which men in time become +weary; and many of us having been absent for several years from +our native shores, experienced absolute delight at the prospect +of returning once more to the bosom of our families. The +communication was therefore welcomed with unfeigned joy, nor +could any other topic of conversation gain attention throughout +the camp, except the anticipated re-embarkation. . + +But as the preliminaries only had been signed, and as +Mr. Maddison's approval was required before we should be at +liberty to depart, our army still continued stationary upon the +island. Of the President's conduct, however, no doubts were +entertained; all thoughts of future military operations were in +consequence laid aside; and the sole aim of every individual +thenceforth was to make himself as comfortable as circumstances +would permit. To effect this end various expedients were +adopted. Among others a theatre was erected, in which such +officers as chose to exhibit performed for their own amusement +and the amusement of their friends. In shooting and fishing, +likewise, much of our time was spent; and thus, by adopting the +usual expedients of idle men, we contrived to pass some days in a +state of tolerable comfort. + +Occupations such as these, however, soon grew insipid, and it was +with sincere rejoicing that on the 5th of March we were made +acquainted with Mr. Maddison's agreement to the terms proposed. +All was now hope and exultation, an immediate departure was +anticipated, and those were pitied as unfortunate whose lot it +was supposed, might detain them even a day behind their fellows. +But as yet no movement took place; our provisions were not +sufficient to authorize the undertaking so long a voyage as we +must undertake, did we attempt to run for the nearest British +settlement; we were therefore compelled to remain where we were, +till a frigate should return, which had been sent forward to +solicit supplies from the Governor of Cuba. + +During this interval, the same occupations were resorted to; and +others of a less agreeable nature undertaken. As summer came on, +the island sent forth multitudes of snakes from their lurking- +places, which infested the camp, making their way in some +instances into our very beds. This was bad enough, but it was +not the only nuisance to which we were subject. The alligators, +which during the winter months lie in a dormant state, now began +to awaken, and prowling about the margin of the pool, created no +little alarm and agitation. Apparently confounded at our +invasion of their territories, these monsters at first confined +themselves to the marshy part of the island, but becoming by +degrees more familiar, they soon ventured to approach the very +precincts of the camp. One of them at length entered a tent; in +which only a woman and child chanced to be, and having stared +round as if in amazement, walked out again without offering to +commit any violence. But the visit was of too serious a nature +to be overlooked. Parties were accordingly formed for their +destruction, and it was usual on the return of each from an +excursion, instead of asking how many birds, to demand how many +snakes and alligators they had shot. Of the former, indeed, +great numbers were killed,`and of the latter not a few, the +largest of which measured about nine feet from the snout to the +tail. + +Another employment, also, deserves to be noted, because it is +truly characteristic of the boyish jollity of young soldiers. +Wearied with a state of idleness, the officers of the 7th, 43rd, +and 14th dragoons made an attack with fir-apples upon those of +the 85th, 93rd, and 95th. For the space of some days they pelted +each other from morning till night, laying ambuscades and +exhibiting, on a small scale, all the stratagems of war; whilst +the whole army, not even excepting the Generals themselves, stood +by and spurred them on. + +But to continue a detail of such proceedings would only swell my +narrative, without amusing my reader; I shall therefore content +myself with observing, that things remained in this state till +the 14th of March, when the long-looked for frigate at length +arrived, and on the 15th, the first division of the army +embarking, set sail for England. The wind, however, was foul, +nor did the ships make any way till the 17th, when a fresh breeze +springing up, we stood our course, and by ten o'clock on the 21st +could distinguish the high land of Cuba. But the violence of the +gale having driven us considerably to leeward, we were forced to +bear up, and beat along the coast, on which account it was not +till the 23rd that we came opposite to the port of Havannah. + +HAVANNAH. + +Than the approach to this city, and its first appearance from the +water, it is impossible to conceive anything more grand and +imposing. A little bay, extremely narrow at the entrance, forms +the harbour. On each side of it stand forts of prodigious +strength, particularly those on the left, where the ground is +considerably elevated, whilst the city itself, with its ramparts +and towers, its numerous steeples, spires, and public +buildings, gives an assurance of wealth and magnificence +peculiarly striking. When we entered, every tower was surmounted +by a national banner half-mast high, a circumstance which did not +at least diminish the effect of a first view; and the guns from +the forts answering our salute, showed us how desperate must be +the condition of an enemy that should venture within their +range. Why the flags should thus indicate a general mourning, we +were at a loss to guess, till the pilot informed us that this was +Holy week. Then, indeed, we remembered that we had returned to a +Roman Catholic country, and rejoiced at the lucky accident which +had brought us thither at such a season. + +As it was late before we anchored, I was prevented from landing +that night, but on the morrow I went on shore at an early hour, +with the intention of seeing as much as my time would allow. But +in my proposed visits to the different points worthy of attention +I was interrupted. It was Good-Friday, consequently all public +places were shut, and neither guides nor carriages could be +procured. But if I was disappointed in this, my disappointment +was amply compensated by a view of the religious ceremonies +peculiar to that day. + +Walking into the largest church in the city, I beheld beside the +altar a figure of our Saviour as large as life nailed to a cross. +Beside this figure stood a number of monks, one of whom presented +a rod with a sponge affixed to its mouth, while a second thrust a +spear into its side, from which came out a liquor having the +colour of blood and water. This being carefully caught in a +golden dish, the figure was taken down from the cross, wrapped +round with white linen clothes, and laid upon a bier, when an +imposing procession began in the following order: First marched a +military band playing slow and solemn music; next came a guard of +soldiers with heads bent down and arms reversed; then followed +about two hundred monks belonging to different orders, arrayed in +their dark robes, with hands and feet bare, and crucifixes +suspended from their necks. A short interval now succeeded, and +another party of monks dressed in white appeared, singing hymns +in honour of the Virgin. Next came a splendid couch surmounted +by a canopy covered with white silk and sparkling with gold and +jewels, upon which sat a waxen image of the Mother of God, +clothed in gorgeous apparel. Following this was another party of +white-robed monks, chanting a requiem for a departed soul, and +then a second interval. At the distance of perhaps twenty yards +from these came two monks bearing two large silver nails, then +two others bearing a spear and a rod, and then the body of our +Saviour stretched at full length upon the bier. After the bier +came two monks bearing two other nails, and then another two +bearing a small cross and a ladder. Here, again, there was +another interval, which was succeeded by a third white-robed +party likewise chanting a requiem. Next to these came about +twenty canons arrayed in scarlet; then another couch covered with +crimson velvet, which supported a figure of Mary Magdalen, +likewise in a sitting posture; then a second body of canons, +succeeded by about two hundred monks in black; after these +another guard of soldiers, and last of all a second military +band. + +In spite of prejudice I could not avoid being deeply struck by +this solemn procession. The airs performed by the bands were +slow and mournful, the voices of the singers were deep and +musical, the dresses were rich to a degree of splendour, and the +whole was gone through with much apparent devotion. No doubt, +when regarded with the eye of reflection, the whole may seem +something worse than ludicrous, but it is impossible to witness +the scene and to reason on its propriety at the same time. As +long as the pageant is before your eyes you cannot avoid being +powerfully impressed by it; nor is it till after it has +disappeared that you are inclined to ask yourself why you gave +way to feelings of that nature. Yet among the natives I thought +I could observe a considerable degree of levity. It is true that +as many as were in the streets or at the windows dropped upon +their knees while the procession passed, but their careless looks +and suppressed smiles sufficiently proved that they knelt only +because they were obliged to kneel. + +Commencing at the door of the church where the representation of +the crucifixion had been exhibited, the funeral party (for it was +neither more nor less) proceeded through the principal streets in +the town with a slow and measured pace. As all except the +soldiers walked two and two, it covered, I should conceive, +little less than a mile in extent, and after winding from lane to +lane and from square to square, directed its steps towards a +particular convent, where the waxen image was solemnly deposited +in a vault. It is said, but with what truth I cannot pretend to +determine, that a different image is made use of every year, and +that the vault is now so full of waxen corpses, that it will be +necessary before long to have some of them destroyed. + +Having now got rid of the most sacred part of their burthen, the +monks, bearing only the two couches, returned in procession by +the same route and in the same order as they had proceeded, only +the bands struck up lively airs and the singers chanted hymns of +rejoicing and hallelujahs. Instead of walking at a slow pace +likewise, they stepped out almost in a sort of dance, and +reaching the door of the great church they there separated, each +party hastening to its own house to celebrate mass. + +Into one or two of the convent chapels I likewise entered, and +was present during the performance of their very striking +service. I found them ornamented in the most magnificent manner, +the rafters of many being gilded over and all the windows crowded +with stained glass. Of pictures, and what struck me as something +better than mere daubs, there were also great numbers. In a +word, it seemed as if I had reached the heart and capital of +Roman Catholic splendour. Nothing that I had beheld in the +mother-country could at all compare with what was now before me, +and I returned in the evening to my ship, not indeed a convert to +the principles of that religion, but decidedly astonished and +confounded at the solemn magnificence of its ceremonies. + + +CHAPTER XXV. + + +AT an early hour next morning I returned to the city, and found +that the face of affairs had undergone a complete revolution. No +more melancholy countenances, no closed shops and vacant streets +were now to be seen; all was bustle and rejoicing, bells ringing, +carriages rattling along, flags flying, and guns firing. The +solemnity of Good-Friday ends, it appeared, at ten o'clock on +Saturday morning, and from that time the merriments of Easter +have their commencement. + +The whole of this day I spent in strolling over the different +walks and points of view from whence the town and surrounding +country may be seen to most advantage; and I certainly must +pronounce it to be by far the most magnificent colonial capital +which I have visited. The streets are in general wide, clean, +and airy; the houses, except in the suburbs, are composed +entirely of stone, and being occasionally intermingled with +convents, churches, and other public buildings, produce a very +striking and handsome effect. Though surrounded by a rampart, +Havannah has little of the confined and straitened appearance by +which fortified towns are generally disfigured. The works being +of great extent, have left within their circumference abundant +room for the display of elegance and neatness in its +construction, an advantage which has not been neglected; whilst +from their situation they command as glorious a prospect as can +well be imagined. + +When you ascend a bastion which overhangs the harbour, the city, +with all its towers and spires, lies immediately and distinctly +beneath your gaze. Beyond it, again, you perceive a winding of +the bay, which washes three sides of the promontory where the +city stands; numerous fields of sugar-cane and Indian corn +succeed, intersected by groves of orange and other fruit trees, +which extend for some miles in a sort of inclined plane, and are +at length bounded by lofty and rugged mountains. On your left, +again, is the creek or entrance to the bay, separating you from +the Moro, a line of castles remarkable for their strength and +extent. Behind sweep the waters of the Gulf of Mexico; and on +the right is another view much resembling that which lies before +you, only that it is more narrowed; the high ground bearing in +this direction closer upon the city. On the whole I do not +remember to have been more forcibly struck by any scenery than +that which I beheld from this bastion; so well were town and +country, castles and convents, land and water, hill and valley +combined. + +Having spent some hours in wandering through the city, I +endeavoured to make my way into the forts, and to examine the +state of the works. But in both of these attempts I was +interrupted. Without an order from the Governor, I was informed, +that none, even of the natives, are permitted to enter the Moro, +and all applications on the part of foreigners are uniformly +refused. There was a degree of jealousy in this, as needless as +it was illiberal; but indeed the whole conduct of the Spanish +authorities gave proof of their reluctance to admit their old +allies, even to the common rites of hospitality. From the moment +we entered the harbour the militia of the island were called out, +many of the guns which commanded our shipping were shotted, and +artillerymen with lighted fuzes stood constantly beside them. An +order was likewise issued, prohibiting more than two persons to +land at the same time from each vessel, and many other +precautions were taken, little complimentary to the good faith of +those to whom Spain must feel that she owes her very existence. +In spite of these drawbacks, however, I contrived to spend a week +in this city with much satisfaction. The opera and theatre +opening on Easter Sunday, and continuing open during the +remainder of our stay, furnished sufficient amusement for the +evenings, whilst in walking or riding about, in examining the +different churches and chapels, and in chatting with nuns through +the grate, or monks within their cells, my mornings passed away +more quickly than I desired. + +At length our victualling and watering being complete, on the 9th +of April we bade adieu to the shores of Cuba, and running along +with the Gulf-stream, took our course towards Bermuda. The wind +favoured us greatly, and on the 17th we again reached these +islands; where we delayed till the 23rd, when, once more setting +sail, we steered directly for England. During the remainder of +the voyage nothing of importance occurred till the 7th of May, +when, reaching in towards the shores of Brest, we were astonished +by beholding the tri-coloured flag floating from the citadel. Of +the mighty events which dad taken place in Europe, we were as yet +in perfect ignorance. Though surprised, therefore, at the first +view of that beacon of war, we naturally concluded it to be no +more than a signal, and passed on without inquiry. As we +ascended the channel, however, we were hailed by a schooner, +which professed to communicate some news concerning Buonaparte; +but the wind being high, we could not distinctly tell what was +said; nor was it till the 9th, when we had anchored off Spithead, +that the reappearance of that wonderful man was made known. + +The effect of this intelligence it would be difficult to +describe. At first it was received with acclamations, but by and +bye those who had dreamed of home began to perceive in it the +destruction of their visions. Yet we considered that we were +soldiers, and certainly no regret was experienced when we were +ordered to re-embark, and sail for the Downs. + +REMARKS. + +Having thus brought my narrative to a conclusion, I cannot lay +aside my pen without offering a few remarks upon the events of +this busy year, and the nature of an American war in general. +In doing so, I shall begin with the unfortunate attack upon New +Orleans, and endeavour, in as few words as possible, to assign +the true causes of its failure. + +From the account which I have given of this affair, it will +appear that, from its very commencement, it was replete with +error, and gave promise of no better result than actually +occurred. I do not here allude to the spot fixed upon for +landing, because that was as appropriate as could be chosen. +Neither do I refer to the groundless rumours brought in by +deserters; for to such all assailants are liable; but the error +lay in the steps subsequently taken; in the unhappy advance of +the first division from a place of concealment into the open +country, without pushing forward to the extent required. The +fact is, that having reached the main land in safety, one out of +two plans might have been selected by General Keane; which, in +all probability, would have been equally attended with success. +Either he might have remained in the morass till the whole army +was assembled, or, if this were deemed too dangerous, he ought to +have advanced upon the city with the first division alone. If it +be objected that a force of 1600 men was incompetent for an +undertaking so important as the latter, I reply that there could +be no more hazard in it than in the course actually pursued. New +Orleans is not a regular fortification requiring a large army and +a powerful battering train for its reduction. In obtaining +possession of such a place there would have been no difficulty, +because it has since been ascertained that the American troops +were, at the time of our landing, some miles above the city; and +surely it would not have been more difficult to repulse an attack +within a town than in the open country. But neither of these +courses was adopted. The advance was drawn from concealment, and +halted just where it became most exposed, as if it had been our +design to warn the American General of his danger; the +consequence of which was a well-directed attack upon our bivouac, +and an immediate commencement of those works which afterwards +resisted and repelled all our efforts. + +The second error evident in this business was the selection of +the schooner instead of the ship for destruction. Had the +latter, which lay farther up the stream been destroyed, the +former never could have passed our battery, nor been of further +annoyance to us; whereas, the schooner being burnt, the ship was +only removed out of the reach of danger, and posted where she +could be infinitely more advantageous to her friends and +detrimental to her enemies. This in itself was a grave error, +which beyond all doubt contributed, in some degree, to our +repulse on the 29th of December. + +The third error, and one which continued to exert its influence +throughout the whole campaign, was the delay in bringing on a +general action. Why our troops fell back on the 29th I confess +is to me a mystery. It was not to be supposed that an officer +who had shown so much judgment as the American General, Jackson, +in his first endeavours to check our advance, would lose the +advantage which the nature of his position afforded. That he +would fortify the neck of land, indeed, was exactly what might +have been expected: and, therefore, every hour during which an +attack was deferred, contributed so much to his strength and to +our weakness. It is true that we should have suffered, and +perhaps suffered severely; but our chances of suffering were +certainly not diminished by delay. We ought, therefore, instead +of falling back, to have pursued our operations with vigour on +that day; because the American lines, being then incomplete, +would have assisted rather than retarded our progress. + +It has been said, and perhaps truly, that the movement on the +29th was never intended for more than a reconnoissance: and +that the scheme subsequently adopted, of overpowering the enemy's +fire by a superior artillery brought from the fleet, was a wise +one. All this may be true; but as we did not succeed in silencing +the enemy's batteries, who, on the contrary, put ours to silence, +either the project was faulty in its design, or some grievous +error was committed in its execution. As far as our position was +affected by it, the results were these:--Three days more were lost +in making preparations, which ended in nothing; while, by the +enemy, these same days were judiciously and indefatigably +employed to improve their deficiency and recruit their force. + +At last came the idea of digging a canal from the lakes to the +river, by means of which a portion of our army might be thrown to +the other side; a project which is said to have been suggested by +Sir Alexander Cochrane; but which, wheresoever originating, was +at once bold and judicious. The canal was accordingly formed; +not, however, with sufficient attention to the rules of art in +like cases, as was shown by the falling in of the banks, and the +consequent impossibility of bringing up boats to transport the +whole detachment. Still there it was, and 350 men, instead of +1400, made good their landing on the right bank of the river. It +is deeply to be regretted that Sir Edward Pakenham did not delay +his own advance with the main body till this fact had been +ascertained. His plan of battle was to carry the enemy's works +on the right bank, to turn their own guns from that flank against +themselves, and to alarm them for their communications, ere he +should attack the main position on the left. Nor can it be +doubted, that had the detached corps arrived at the hour first +named, an easy triumph would have been achieved. But Pakenham +was too fiery to restrain his troops, after they had assumed +their ground on his own side. Instead, therefore, of causing the +columns to fall back out of gun-shot, and wait quietly till the +battle began on the left, he hurried them into action as soon as +the day dawned; and they became exposed to the whole of that +volume of fire which it was one main object of his movement +across the Mississippi to destroy. Moreover, from all the moral +effects of a partial defeat the enemy were saved; and I need not +say how serious such things are to irregular and undisciplined +bodies. I do not mean to assert that, in spite of all this, the +American lines ought not to have been carried. On the contrary, +had every officer and man done his duty, the victory would have +been complete, though purchased, beyond a doubt, at a severe +cost. Yet it is absurd to deny that, speaking of the movement as +an operation of war, the attack on the right ought to have been +withheld till that on the left had either failed or succeeded. +So far, therefore, the General is liable to censure; and +chivalrous and high-minded as he was, it is just that he should +receive it. But there were other causes of defeat than this; +among which, the gross misconduct of one individual deserves to +be especially noticed. + +To Lieutenant-Colonel Mullens, with the 44th regiment, of which +he was in command, was intrusted the arduous and therefore +honourable duty of carrying the fascines and ladders. The orders +were given in good time over night; and Colonel Mullens received +them as if they had conveyed a sentence of death. He stated, in +the hearing of the private soldiers, that his corps was devoted +to destruction; and conducted himself, in every respect, like a +condemned criminal on the night previous to his execution. When +the troops got under arms, instead of bringing his battalion to +the redoubt, where he had been instructed to find the ladders, he +marched directly past it, and led them into the field without a +single ladder or fascine. When the day dawned, and he was sent +back for these instruments, he headed his corps in its retrograde +movement, but left it to return as it could to the front; and +when sought for to guide the attack, he was nowhere to be found. +That a regiment thus abused and deserted by its commanding +officer should fall into confusion, cannot occasion any surprise; +it would have been surprising indeed, had a different result +ensued. But the melancholy effect of such confusion was, that +other regiments were likewise broken; and before order could be +restored, all the Generals were borne dead or wounded from the +field. A large share, therefore, of the blame attachable to this +failure must rest where fidelity of narration has obliged me to +place it. + +Again, the recall of the victorious detachment from the left to +the right bank of the Mississippi, and the consequent abandonment +of that complete command of the river which this partial success +had obtained, was a military error of the gravest kind. Great as +our numerical loss had been in the principal action of the 8th, +the advantages of position were at the close of the day so +decidedly with us, that for General Jackson to maintain himself +any longer in front of New Orleans was physically impossible. +His own dispatch, indeed, addressed to the Secretary-at-War, +shows that he felt the truth so forcibly, that he had actually +issued orders for a retreat, when the removal of the English from +his menaced flank was reported to him; and his battalions, which +had begun to get under arms, were directed to resume their +places. It is, however, but just to state, that such was the +miserable condition of our commissariat, that the fleet contained +not provisions enough to feed the people on half rations during a +quick passage to Cuba; and General Lambert did not feel that he +would be justified in risking the total loss of his army, which, +had the campaign been prolonged another fortnight, must under +such circumstances have taken place. That he erred in this +supposition is certain; but his was probably an error into which +most men similarly circumstanced would have fallen. + +But the primary cause of all our disasters may be traced to a +source even more distant than any yet mentioned; I mean, to the +disclosure of our designs to the enemy. How this occurred I +shall not take it upon me to declare, though several rumours +bearing at least the guise of probability have been circulated. +The attack upon New Orleans was professedly a secret expedition; +so secret, indeed, that it was not communicated to the inferior +officers and soldiers in the armament till immediately previous +to our quitting Jamaica. To the Americans, however, it appears +to have been known long before; and hence it was that, instead of +taking them unawares, we found them fully prepared for our +reception. Nor is this all. It appears difficult to account for +the degree of negligence which affected the naval heads of the +present expedition, as far as the providing a competent number of +boats and small craft to transport the troops is concerned. +Throughout the whole fleet, barges enough to carry one-half of +the army could not be found; whereas there ought to have been a +sufficient quantity to contain not only the entire force, but all +its stores and ammunition. To this neglect, indeed, more perhaps +than to any other circumstances, is the failure of the attempt to +be attributed; since not a doubt can exist that, if General Keane +had been enabled to bring the whole of his army to land on the +morning of the 23rd, he would have reached New Orleans, without +firing a shot, before nightfall. But the opportunity is past, it +cannot be recalled, and therefore to point out errors on the part +of my countrymen can serve no good end. That the failure is to +be lamented no one will deny, since the conquest of New Orleans +would have proved beyond all comparison the most valuable +acquisition that could be made to the British dominions +throughout the whole western hemisphere. In possession of that +post we should have kept the entire southern trade of the United +States in check, and furnished means of commerce to our own +merchants of incalculable value. + +The fact, however, is, that when we look back upon the whole +series of events produced by the late American war, we shall find +little that is likely to flatter our vanity or increase our +self-importance. Except a few successes in Canada at its very +commencement, and the brilliant inroad upon Washington, it will +be found that our arms have been constantly baffled or repulsed +on shore; whilst at sea, with the exception of the capture of the +Chesapeake and one or two other affairs towards its conclusion, +we have been equally unsuccessful. From what cause does this +proceed? Not from any inferiority in courage or discipline, +because in these particulars British soldiers and sailors will +yield to none in the world. There must, then, be some other +cause for these misfortunes, and the cause is surely one which +has continually baffled all our plans of American warfare. + +We have long been habituated to despise the Americans as an enemy +unworthy of serious regard. To this alone it is to be attributed +that frigates half manned were sent out to cope with ships +capable of containing them within their hulls; and to this also +the trifling handfuls of troops dispatched to conduct the war by +land. Instead of fifteen hundred, had ten thousand men sailed +from the Garonne under General Ross, how differently might he +have acted! There would have been then no necessity for a +reembarkation after the capture of Washington, and consequently +no time given for the defence of Baltimore; but, marching across +the country, he might have done to the one city what he did to +the other. And it is thus only that a war with America can be +successfully carried on. To penetrate up the country amidst +pathless forests and boundless deserts, and to aim at permanent +conquest, is out of the question. America must be assaulted only +on her coasts. Her harbours destroyed, her shipping burned, and +her seaport towns laid waste, are the only evils which she has +reason to dread; and were a sufficient force embarked with these +orders, no American war would be of long continuance. + +A melancholy experience has now taught us that such a war must +not be entered into, unless it be conducted with spirit; and +there is no conducting it with spirit, except with a sufficient +numerical force. To the plan proposed of making desert the whole +line of coast, it may be objected, that by so doing we should +distress individuals, and not the Government. But they who offer +this objection, forget the nature both of the people whose cause +they plead, and of the Government under which they live. In a +democratical Government, the voice of the people must at all +times prevail. The members of the House of Representatives are +the very persons who, from such proceedings, would suffer most +severely, and we all know how far private suffering goes to +influence a man's public opinions. Besides, the principle upon +which the advocates for the sacredness of private property +proceed, is erroneous. Every one will allow that, in absolute +monarchies, where war is more properly the pastime of kings than +the desire of subjects, non-combatants ought to be dealt with as +humanely as possible. Not so, how ever, in States governed by +popular assemblies. By compelling the constituents to experience +the real hardships and miseries of warfare, you will compel the +representatives to a vote of peace; and surely that line of +conduct is, upon the whole, most humane, which puts the speediest +period to the cruelties of war. There are few men who would not +rather endure a raging fever for three days, than a slow and +lingering disease for three months. So it is with a democracy at +war. Burn their houses, plunder their property, block up their +harbours, and destroy their shipping in a few places; and before +you have time to proceed to the rest, you will be stopped by +entreaties for peace. Whereas, if you do no mischief that can be +avoided, if you only fight their fleets and armies wherever you +meet them, and suffer the inhabitants to live in undisturbed +tranquillity, they will continue their hostilities till they have +worn out the means of one party, and greatly weakened those of +both. + +Should another war break out between Great Britain and America, +this is the course to be adopted by the former. Besides which, I +humbly conceive that a second attempt might be hazarded upon New +Orleans, because the importance of the conquest would authorise +almost any sacrifice for its attainment; and once gained, it +could easily be defended. The neck of land, upon which it is +built, extends in the same form above as below the town; and the +same advantages which it holds out to its present defenders +would, of course, be afforded to us. A chain of works thrown +across from the river to the marsh would render it inaccessible +from above; whilst by covering the lakes and the Mississippi with +cruisers, all attacks from below would be sufficiently guarded +against. + +THE END. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Campaigns of the British Army at +Washington and New Orleans 1814-1815, by G. R. 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