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diff --git a/18479.txt b/18479.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..42d67a0 --- /dev/null +++ b/18479.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9175 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Campaigns of the British Army at +Washington and New Orleans 1814-1815, by G. R. Gleig + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Campaigns of the British Army at Washington and New Orleans 1814-1815 + +Author: G. R. Gleig + +Release Date: June 1, 2006 [EBook #18479] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRITISH ARMY AT WASHINGTON *** + + + + +Produced by Geoffrey Cowling + + + + +The Campaigns of the British Army at Washington and New Orleans +1814-1815 + +by + +Rev. G. R. Gleig, M.A., + +Chaplain-General to the forces; + +Author of 'The Subaltern'; 'Story of the Battle of Waterloo'; +'Life of Lord Clive'; 'Life of Sir Thomas Munro', etc. + + + +New Edition 1879 + + + + + +ADVERTISEMENT. + +The following Narrative contains, it is believed, the only connected +and authentic account, which has yet been given, of the expedition +directed against Washington and New Orleans, towards the close of the +late American war. It has been compiled, not from memory alone, but +from a journal kept by the author whilst engaged in the enterprise; +and as the adventures of each were faithfully noted down as they +occurred, and such remarks made upon passing events as suggested +themselves to his mind at the moment, the public may rely with +confidence upon general correctness of the details. The issues of the +expedition were not, indeed, of the most gratifying nature, but it is +hoped that a plain relation of the proceedings of those to whom it was +intrusted, will not, on that account, prove uninteresting; whilst +nothing can be more evident than that the portion of our history which +it embraces ought not to be overlooked because it is little conducive +to the encouragement of national vanity. It was chiefly, indeed, upon +this account, as well as with a view to redeem from an oblivion which +they hardly merit, the actions and sufferings of a few brave men, that +the Narrative now submitted to the public was written. + + + +CHAPTER I. +Cessation of Hostilities--Expected Embarkation for America--Encampment +near Passages--March towards Bordeaux-Anglet. . . + +CHAPTER II. +Bayonne--St. Etienne--March through Bayonne, to Ondres + +CHAPTER III. +Les Landes--March to Bordeaux--Bordeaux--Macan--La Moe--At Sea + +CHAPTER IV. + +At Sea--St. Michael's--Villa Franca . . . + +CHAPTER V. + +St Michael's--Ponto del Gada--At Sea . + +CHAPTER VI. + +Bermuda . . . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER VII. +America--The Chesapeake--The Partuxent--St. Benedicts . . . + +CHAPTER VIII. +Nottingham--Marlborough . . . . + +CHAPTER IX. +March to Washington--Bladensburg . . + +CHAPTER X. +Washington . . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XI. +Washington--Bladensburg--Marlborough-St Benedicts +. . . . . . + +CHAPTER XII. +Alexandria--The Patuxent--The Patapsco . . . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XIII. +March--Attack--Halt . . . . . + +CHAPTER XIV. +March--Halt--Search--March--Rally--Halt . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XV. The Patuxent--The Potomac--The Chesapeake--At Sea--The +West Indies . . . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XVI. +The West Indies--Port Royal--Kingston--Jamaica--The Blue Mountains + +CHAPTER XVII. +The Blue Mountains--Port Royal--Negril Bay . . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XVIII. +At Sea--New Orleans--Lake Borgne--Pine Island . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XIX. +Pine Island--The Lake--Landing--March--Halt . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XX. +Halt--Attack--Field of Battle-Hospital . . . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XXI. Advance--Attack--March--Attack--Retreat--Preparations +. . . . . + +CHAPTER XXII. +Attack--Retreat--Pause--Attack--Re-embarkation . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XXIII +The Camp--Preparations for Retreat--Retreat--Halt . . . . . . . + + CHAPTER XXIV. +The Lake--Mobile--Siege--Peace--Havannah . . . . . . . . + +CHAPTER XXV. +Havannah--Remarks . . . . . + + + +THE BRITISH ARMY + +AT + +WASHINGTON AND NEW ORLEANS. + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +A REVOLUTION must occur in the condition and sentiments of +mankind more decided than we have any reason to expect that the +lapse of ages will produce, before the mighty events which +distinguished the spring of 1814 shall be spoken of in other +terms than those of unqualified admiration. It was then that +Europe, which during so many years had groaned beneath the +miseries of war, found herself at once, and to her remotest +recesses, blessed with the prospect of a sure and permanent +peace. Princes, who had dwelt in exile till the very hope of +restoration to power began to depart from them, beheld themselves +unexpectedly replaced on the thrones of their ancestors; +dynasties, which the will of one man had erected, disappeared +with the same abruptness with which they had arisen; and the +influence of changes which a quarter of a century of rapine and +conquest had produced in the arrangements of general society, +ceased, as if by magic, to be felt, or at least to be acknowledged. +It seemed, indeed, as if all which had been passing during the +last twenty or thirty years, had passed not in reality, +but in a dream; so perfectly unlooked for were the issues of +a struggle, to which, whatever light we may regard it, +the history of the whole world presents no parallel. + +At the period above alluded to, it was the writer's fortune to +form one of a body of persons in whom the unexpected cessation of +hostilities may be supposed to have excited sensations more +powerful and more mixed than those to which the common +occurrences of life are accustomed to give birth. He was then +attached to that portion of the Peninsular army to which the +siege of Bayonne had been intrusted; and on the 28th of April +beheld, in common with his comrades, the tri-coloured flag, +which, for upwards of two months, had waved defiance from the +battlements, give place to the ancient drapeau blanc of the +Bourbons. That such a spectacle could be regarded by any +British soldier without stirring up in him strong feelings of +national pride and exultation, is not to be imagined. I believe, +indeed, that there was not a man in our ranks, however humble his +station, to whose bosom these feelings were a stranger. But the +excitation of the moment having passed away, other and no less +powerful feelings succeeded; and they were painful, or the +reverse, according as they ran in one or other of the channels +into which the situations and prospects of individuals not +unnaturally guided them. By such as had been long absent from +their homes, the idea of enjoying once more the society of +friends and relatives, was hailed with a degree of delight too +engrossing to afford room for the occurrence of any other +anticipations; to those who had either no homes to look to, or +had quitted them only a short time ago, the thoughts of +revisiting England came mixed with other thoughts, little +gratifying, because at variance with all their dreams of +advancement and renown. For my own part I candidly confess, that +though I had just cause to look forward to a return to the bosom +of my family with as much satisfaction as most men, the +restoration of peace excited in me sensations of a very equivocal +nature. At the age of eighteen, and still enthusiastically +attached to my profession, neither the prospect of a reduction to +half-pay, nor the expectation of a long continuance in a +subaltern situation, were to me productive of any pleasurable +emotions; and hence, though I entered heartily into all the +arrangements by which those about me strove to evince their +gratification at the glorious termination of the war, it must be +acknowledged that I did so, without experiencing much of the +satisfaction with the semblance of which my outward behaviour +might be marked. + +EXPECTED EMBARKATION FOR AMERICA. + +Such being my own feelings, and the feelings of the great +majority of those immediately around me, it was but natural that +we should turn our views to the only remaining quarter of the +globe in which the flame of war still continued to burn. Though +at peace with France, England, we remembered; was not yet at +peace with the United States; and reasoning, not as statesmen but +as soldiers, we concluded that she was not now likely to make +peace with that nation till she should be able to do so upon her +own terms. Having such an army on foot, what line of policy +could appear so natural or so judicious as that she should +employ, if not the whole, at all events a large proportion of it, +in chastising an enemy, than whom none had ever proved more +vindictive or more ungenerous? Our view of the matter accordingly +was, that some fifteen or twenty thousand men would be forthwith +embarked on board of ship and transported to the other side of +the Atlantic; that the war would there be carried on with a +vigour conformable to the dignity and resources of the country +which waged it; and that no mention of peace would be made till +our general should be in a situation to dictate its conditions in +the enemy's capital. + +Whether any design of the kind was ever seriously entertained, or +whether men merely asserted as a truth what they earnestly +desired to be such, I know not; but the white flag had hardly +been hoisted on the citadel of Bayonne, when a rumour became +prevalent that an extensive encampment of troops, destined for +the American war, was actually forming in the vicinity of +Bordeaux. A variety of causes led me to anticipate that the +corps to which I was attached would certainly be employed upon +that service. In the progress of the war which had been just +brought to a conclusion, we had not suffered so severely as many +other corps; and though not excelling in numbers, it is but +justice to affirm that a more effective or better organized +battalion could not be found in the whole army. We were all, +moreover, from our commanding officer down to the youngest +ensign, anxious to gather a few more laurels, even in America; +and we had good reason to believe that those in power were not +indisposed to gratify our inclinations. Under these +circumstances we clung with fondness to the hope that our martial +career had not yet come to a close; and employed the space which +intervened between the eventful 28th of April and the 8th of the +following month, chiefly in forming guesses as to the point of +attack towards which it was likely that we should be turned. + +ENCAMPMENT NEAR PASSAGES. + +Though there was peace between the French and British nations, +the form of hostilities was so far kept up between the garrison +of Bayonne and the army encamped around it, that it was only by +an especial treaty that the former were allowed to send out +parties for the purpose of collecting forage and provisions from +the adjacent country. The foraging parties, however, being +permitted to proceed in any direction most convenient to +themselves, the supplies of corn and grass, which had heretofore +proved barely sufficient for our own horses and cattle, soon +began to fail, and it was found necessary to move more than one +brigade to a distance from the city. Among others, the brigade of +which my regiment formed a part, received orders on the 7th of +May to fall back on the road towards Passages. These orders we +obeyed on the following morning; and after an agreeable march of +fifteen or sixteen miles, pitched our tents in a thick wood, +about half-way between the village of Bedart and the town of +St. Jean de Luz. In this position we remained for nearly a week, +our expectations of employment on the other side of the Atlantic +becoming daily less and less sanguine, till at length all doubts +on the subject were put an end to by the sudden arrival of a +dispatch, which commanded us to set out with as little delay as +possible towards Bordeaux. + +It was on the evening of the 14th that the route was received, +and on the following morning, at daybreak, we commenced our +march. The country through which we moved had nothing in it, +unconnected with past events, calculated in any extraordinary +degree to attract attention. Behind us, indeed, rose the +Pyrenees in all their grandeur, forming, on that side, a noble +boundary to the prospect; and on our left was the sea, a boundary +different it is true in kind, though certainly not less +magnificent. But, excepting at these two extremities, there was +nothing in the landscape on which the eye loved particularly to +rest, because the country, though pretty enough, has none of +that exquisite richness and luxuriance which we had been led to +expect as characteristic of the South of France. The houses, +too, being all in a ruinous and dilapidated condition, reminded +us more forcibly of the scenes of violence and outrage which +had been lately acted among them, than of those ideas of rural +contentment and innocence which various tales and melodramas had +taught us to associate in our own minds with thoughts of the +land of the vine. + +MARCH TOWARDS BORDEAUX + +Regarded, however, in connexion with past events, the scene was +indeed most interesting; though to a stranger fresh from +England--a man, we will suppose, of retired and peaceful habits, +I can readily imagine that it would have been productive of much +pain; for on each side of the road, in whatever direction we cast +our eyes, and as far as the powers of vision extended, we beheld +cottages unroofed and in ruins, chateaux stripped of their doors +and windows, gardens laid waste, the walls demolished, and the +fruit-trees cut down; whole plantations levelled, and vineyards +trodden under foot. Here and there, likewise, a redoubt or +breastwork presented itself; whilst caps, broken firelocks, +pieces of clothing, and accoutrements scattered about in +profusion, marked the spots where the strife had been most +determined, and where many a fine fellow had met his fate. Our +journey lay over a field of battle, through the entire extent of +which the houses were not only thoroughly gutted (to use a +vulgar but most expressive phrase), but for the most part were +riddled with cannon-shot. Round some of the largest, indeed, +there was not a wall nor a tree which did not present evident +proofs of its having been converted into a temporary place of +defence, whilst the deep ruts in what had once been lawns and +flower-gardens, showed that all their beauty had not protected +them from being destroyed by the rude passage of heavy artillery. + +Immediately beyond the village of Bedart such spectacles were +particularly frequent. It was here, it may be remembered, that +in the preceding month of December there had been fighting for +four successive days; and the number of little hillocks now +within our view; from under most of which legs and arms were +beginning to show themselves, as well as the other objects which +I have attempted to describe, sufficiently attested the obstinacy +with which that fighting had been maintained. + +In the bosom of a man of peace it is very conceivable that all +this would have excited feelings exceedingly painful; in ours, +such feelings were overborne by others of a very different +nature. If we gazed with peculiar interest upon one hovel more +than upon another, it was because some of us had there maintained +ourselves; if we endeavoured to count the number of shot-holes in +any wall, or the breaks in any hedge, it was because we had stood +behind it when "the iron hail" fell thick and fast around us. +Our thoughts, in short, had more of exultation in them than of +sorrow; for though now and then, when the name of a fallen +comrade was mentioned, it was accompanied with a "poor fellow" +the conversation soon returned again to the exploits and +hair-breadth escapes of the survivors. On the whole, therefore, +our march was one of deep interest and high excitement, feelings +which did not entirely evaporate when we halted, about two hours +after noon, at the village of Anglet. + +MARCH TOWARDS BORDEAUX--ANGLET + +We found this village in the condition in which it was to be +expected that a place of so much importance during the progress +of the late siege would be found, in other words, completely +metamorphosed into a chain of petty posts. Being distant from +the outworks of Bayonne not more than a mile and a half, and +standing upon the great road by which all the supplies for the +left of the British army were brought up, no means, as may be +supposed, had been neglected, which art or nature could supply, +towards rendering it as secure against a sudden excursion of the +garrison as might be. About one hundred yards in front of it +felled trees were laid across the road, with their branches +turned towards the town, forming what soldiers, in the language +of their profession, term an abattis. Forty or fifty yards in +rear of this a ditch was dug, and a breastwork thrown up, from +behind which a party might do great execution upon any body of +men struggling to force their way over that impediment. On each +side of the highway again, where the ground rises into little +eminences, redoubts and batteries were erected, so as to command +the whole with a heavy flanking fire; while every house and hovel +lying at all within the line of expected operations was +loop-holed, and otherwise put in a posture of defence. But upon +the fortification of the church a more than ordinary degree of +care seemed to have been bestowed. As it stood upon a little +eminence in the middle of the hamlet, it was no hard matter to +convert it into a tolerably regular fortress, which might serve +the double purpose of a magazine for warlike stores and a post of +defence against the enemy. With this view the churchyard was +surrounded by a row of stout palings, called in military +phraseology stockades, from certain openings in which the muzzles +of half a dozen pieces of light artillery protruded. The walls +of the edifice itself were, moreover, strengthened by an +embankment of earth to the height of perhaps four or five feet +from the ground, above which narrow openings were made, in order +to give to its garrison an opportunity of levelling their +muskets; while on the top of the tower a small howitzer was +mounted, from which either shot or shell could be thrown with +effect into any of the lanes or passes near. It is probably +needless to add that the interior arrangements of this house of +God had undergone a change as striking as that which affected its +exterior. Barrels of gunpowder, with piles of balls of all sizes +and dimensions, now occupied the spaces where worshippers had +often crowded; and the very altar was heaped up with spunges, +wadding, and other implements necessary in case of an attack. + +I have been thus minute in my description of Anglet, because what +has been said of it will apply more or less exactly to every +village, hamlet, or cluster of cottages, within the compass of +what were called the lines. It is true that neither here nor +elsewhere, excepting at one particular point, and that on the +opposite side of the river, were any serious intentions +entertained of broaching or storming the place; and that the sole +object of these preparations was to keep the enemy within his +works, and to cut him off from all communication with the +surrounding country. But to effect even this end, the utmost +vigilance and precaution were necessary, not only because the +number of troops employed on the service was hardly adequate to +discharge it, but because the garrison hemmed in was well known to +be at once numerous and enterprising. The reader may +accordingly judge what appearance a country presented which, to +the extent of fifteen or twenty miles round, was thus treated; +where every house was fortified, every road blocked up, every +eminence mined with fieldworks, and every place swarming with +armed men. Nor was its aspect less striking by night than by +day. Gaze where he might, the eye of the spectator then rested +upon some portion of one huge circle of fires, by the glare of +which the white tents or rudely constructed huts of the besiegers +were from time to time made visible. + + While things continued thus, the condition of the peaceful +inhabitant of this district could hardly fail to be one of +extreme discomfort. Of these the greater number had indeed fled +on the advance of the British army, leaving their houses and +effects a prey to the conquerors; but there were some who, having +probably no place of refuge to retire to, remained in their +homes, and threw themselves upon our mercy for protection. It is +not requisite that I should now inform the reader of the strict +discipline which Lord Wellington preserved in every division of +his army; his first step, on entering France, had been to inform +the people that against them no violence was intended; and the +assurance thus given, was in no instance, at least wantonly, +violated. But, however orderly the conduct of an invading force +may be, their very presence must occasion a thousand +inconveniences to those upon whom they are quartered; not the +least distressing of which is, perhaps, the feeling of +degradation which the consciousness of being in the power of +armed foreigners can hardly fail to produce. Then there is the +total destruction of all domestic comfort, which the occupation +of a man's house by large bodies of soldiers produces; the +liability to which the females, in particular, are exposed to +insult from the common troopers; and the dread of vengeance from +any delinquent on whom their complaints may have brought down +chastisement, all these things must and do create a degree of +misery, of which the inhabitants of Great Britain may thank God +that they know nothing except by name. In the vicinity of +Bayonne, moreover, the country people lived in daily and nightly +expectation of finding themselves involved in all the horrors and +dangers of a battle. Sorties were continually looked for, and +however these might terminate, the non-combatants felt that they +must be equally the sufferers. Nay, it was no uncommon ground of +complaint among them, that even the total defeat of our forces +would bring with it no relief, because, by remaining to receive +us, they had disobeyed the proclamations of Marshal Soult, and +were consequently liable to punishment as traitors. + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +A soon as the bustle of encamping was over, and my time +absolutely at my own disposal, I took advantage of an offered +passport, and proceeded into Bayonne. It will be readily believed +that I entered this city with feelings very different from those +of a common traveller. Having lain before it as a besieger for +upwards of two months, its shops, its trade, its public buildings +and places of amusement were to me objects of, comparatively +speaking, little interest or curiosity. Its fortifications and +means of defence were, in truth, what I was principally anxious +to examine. Hitherto I could judge of them only from outward +appearances and vague reports; and now that an opportunity offered +of so doing with greater accuracy, I confess that my inclination +prompted me to embrace that opportunity, rather than to hunt for +pictures which I could not value, or fatigue my imagination by +endeavouring to discover fine specimens of architecture amidst +heavy and ill-built churches. + +It is not my intention to attempt any scientific or technical +review of the works which a very natural curiosity tempted me to +examine; partly because I confess myself little competent to the +task and partly because, were the contrary the case, I am +inclined to believe that such a review would not prove very +interesting to the public in general. Enough is done if I +endeavour to impress my reader with as many of the feelings which +I then experienced, as may be done by detailing them; and, at +the same time, enable him to form some general idea of a place +before whose walls no trifling quantity of British blood has been +spilt. + +The city of Bayonne stands, as everybody knows, upon the Adour, +about six or eight miles from the point where that river falls +into the sea. On the southern or Spanish bank, where the whole +of the city, properly so called, is built, the country, to the +distance of two or three miles from the walls, is perfectly flat +and the soil sandy, and apparently not very productive. On the +bank the ground rises rather abruptly from the brink of the +stream, sloping upwards likewise from the sea, till you arrive at +the pinnacle upon which the citadel is erected, and which hangs +immediately over the town. Thus, though the Adour in fact +separates the city from the suburbs and citadel, yet as the +ramparts of the former extend to the water's edge on both sides, +and as those of the latter continue the sweep from points +immediately opposite, the general appearance presented is that of +one considerable town, with a broad river flowing through the +middle of it. + +It will be seen, even from this short and imperfect sketch, that +its situation gives to Bayonne, considered as a military post, a +superiority over most cities; inasmuch as it affords peculiar +facilities towards rendering it a place of great strength. On one +side there is a plain, always accounted by engineers the most +convenient for the construction of fortifications; on the other +an eminence, lofty enough to command the surrounding country, and +at the same time sufficiently level at the summit to receive the +walls of a fortress, powerful at once from its position and +regularity. But the great strength of Bayonne arose at this +juncture not so much from its original defences as from the +numerous outworks which had been lately added to it. It was along +the course of the Adour, as the reader will probably recollect, +or rather between the Adour and the Nieve, that Soult formed his +famous intrenched camp. The right of this chain of stupendous +works rested upon the city, the importance of which was +consequently much increased; and as the capture of it would have +occasioned not only the loss of a town, but the turning of the +whole position, no pains were spared in rendering it as nearly +impregnable as possible. That I may convey some notion to the +minds of others of the nature of these works, I will describe the +aspect which they presented to myself, as I rode from Anglet +towards the city. + +When I had proceeded about a mile and a half beyond our advanced +posts, I found myself in front of the first line of defence. +This consisted of a battery mounting three eighteen-pounders, +upon the road, flanked by other batteries, one on each side; all +so placed as that whichsoever of them should be attacked, it +might be defended by a cross-fire from the rest. These were of +course additionally strengthened by ditches and felled trees; but +they were open in the rear; and though very formidable to an +assailing party, yet, when taken, could have been of small +service to the conquerors, being themselves exposed to the fire +of the second line. The situation of the second line, again, was +similar in every respect to that of the first, being, like it, +open in the rear, and placed under the guns of the town. Thus, +after having forced two powerful lines of defence, the besiegers +would find themselves almost as far as ever from the attainment +of their object, being then only arrived at the point where the +labours of a siege could commence. + +But the maintenance of Bayonne must at all times depend upon +keeping possession of the citadel. The city lying upon a plain, +and the castle standing upon an eminence immediately above it, it +is clear that, were the latter taken, the former must either +surrender or be speedily reduced to ruins. It is true that, by +destroying the bridge which connects them, all communication +between the two places would be cut off; but the distance from +the one to the other being not more than half-musket shot, and +the guns of the fort pointing directly down upon the streets and +of the city, any attempt to hold out could cause only the +destruction of the town, and the unavenged slaughter of its +garrison. Of the truth of this the French were as much aware as +their enemies, nor did they neglect any means which an accurate +knowledge of engineering could point out, for the defence of what +they justly considered as the key of the entire position. In +addition to its own very regular and well-constructed +fortifications, two strong redoubts were thrown up, on two sides +of the fort, upon the only spots of ground calculated for the +purpose; both of which, I was informed by my guide, were +undermined and loaded with gunpowder, ready to be sprung as soon +as they should fill into our hands. They had judged, and judged +correctly, that if ever the place should be invested, it would be +that the trenches would be opened and the breaching batteries +erected; and they made every preparation to meet the danger which +great prudence and military skill could suggest. + +Bayonne, though a populous place, does not cover so much ground +as a stranger would be led to suppose. Like most walled towns, +its streets, with the exception of one or two, are in general +narrow, and the houses lofty: but it is compact, and, on the +whole, clean, and neatly built. The number of inhabitants I +should be inclined to estimate at somewhere about thirty +thousand, exclusive of the garrison, which at this time amounted +to fourteen or fifteen thousand men; but as most of the families +appear to live in the style of those in the old town of +Edinburgh, that is to say, several under the same roof, though +each in a separate story or flat, it is not difficult to conceive +how they contrive to find sufficient room, within a compass +apparently so narrow. Of its commerce and manufactures I can say +little, except that I should not imagine either to be extensive. +I am led to form this opinion, partly from having seen no +shipping at the wharfs, and partly because the Adour, though +here both wide and deep, is rendered unnavigable to vessels of +any size, by a shallow or bar at its mouth. There was, indeed, +a sloop of war close to the town, but how it got there I am at a +loss to conceive, unless it were built upon the river, and kept +as an additional protection against a surprise from the water. +The shops are, however, good, particularly those where jewellery +is sold; an article in the setting and adorning of which the +French, if they do not excel us in really substantial value, +undoubtedly surpass us in elegance. + +When I had taken as complete a survey of the town as I felt +disposed to take, I crossed the bridge with the intention of +inspecting the interior of the citadel. Here, however, I was +disappointed, no strangers being admitted within its gates; but +as there was no objection made to my reconnoitring it from +without, I proceeded towards the point where our trenches had +been dug, and where it had been designed to breach and storm the +place. To this I was urged by two motives, partly from the desire +of obtaining the best view possible of the fort, and partly that +I might examine the ground upon which the desperate affair +of the 14th of April took place. The reader cannot have +forgotten, that some hours before daylight on the morning of +that day, a vigorous and well-arranged sortie was made by the +garrison, and that it was not without hard fighting and a severe +loss on both sides that the attack was finally repulsed. + +Mounting the heights, I soon arrived at St. Etienne, a little +village nearly on a level with the citadel, and not more than a +quarter of a mile from its walls. From this point I could +satisfy my curiosity to the full, and as the account may not, +perhaps, be uninteresting, I shall describe, as well as I am +able, the scene which here met my eyes. + +St. Etienne + +The ridge of little hills upon which the fort and village are +built, though it rises by gentle gradation from the sea, towards +the spot where I now stood, is nevertheless intersected and +broken here and there by deep glens or ravines. Two of these +glens, one to the right, the other to the left, chance to occur +immediately under the ramparts of the fortress, supplying, in +some measure, the purposes of a ditch, and leaving a sort of +table or elevated neck of land between them, the extremity of +which is occupied by the village. On this neck of land the +besieged had constructed one of the redoubts to which I alluded +as having been lately thrown up; whilst on another table, at the +opposite side of the left ravine, which winds round in the +direction of the wall, as nearly as if it were the work of art, +stands the other redoubt. Beyond this, again, there is a +perpendicular precipice, the hills there abruptly ending; so that +on two sides the walls of the fort skirt the extremity of a bare +rock. It was along the outer ridges of these ravines, and +through the churchyard of St. Etienne, that our trenches were +drawn, the village itself being the most advanced British post; +and it was along these ridges, and in the street of this village, +that the action of the 14th of April was fought. + +It is not my business, neither indeed is it my intention, to +relate here the particulars of that affair. The French, having +contrived, in a dark night, to elude the vigilance of our +sentinels, came upon the piquets unperceived, and took them +completely by surprise. The battle was maintained on both sides +with great determination, and had it not been for the unfortunate +capture of Sir John Hope and the fall of General Hay, the +assailants would have had little cause to rejoice at the result: +for though the loss of the English was certainly great, that of +the French was at least not inferior. Yet the business was an +unfortunate one to both parties, since, before it took place, +Buonaparte had already abdicated, and the preliminaries of peace +were already signed between the two nations. + +I found the village, in which the fighting had been most +obstinately maintained, in the condition of most villages where +such dramas have been acted. The street had been barricaded, but +the barricade was almost entirely torn down; the houses, trees, +and church, like those we had passed upon the march, were covered +with the marks of cannon and musket balls, whilst quantities of +round and grape shot, of musket and pistol bullets, broken +bayonets, swords, &c. &c., lay scattered about in every +direction. Nor were these the only evidences of strife +discernible. In many places--on the pavement of the street, in +the churchyard, but above all, on the floor of the church itself, +--the traces of blood were still distinctly visible. Beside the +remains of the barricade there stood a solitary six-pounder, +which had been taken and re-taken nine times during the struggle; +and a sprinkling of what looked like a mixture of blood and +brains still adhering to its carriage and breech, showed that it +had never been given up without the most desperate resistance. +The mounds, too, under which the dead were buried, presented a +peculiarly striking appearance; for the field of action having +been narrow, those that fell, fell in heaps together, and being +buried in the same way, one was led to form an idea of greater +slaughter than if double the number of graves had been +distinguishable in a more extended space. + +Having now accomplished my wishes as far as I could, and +beginning to feel somewhat fatigued with strolling about, I +adjourned to an hotel in the city, from whence, in the evening, +I went to the play. The house was poor and the performance +miserable, consequently there was no great inducement to sit out +the whole of the piece. After witnessing an act or two, +therefore, I returned to the inn, where I slept, and at an early +hour next morning rejoined my regiment, already under arms and +making preparations for the continuance of the march. + +MARCH THROUGH BAYONNE--TO ONDRES + +As it would have been considerably out of our way to go round by +the floating bridge*, permission was applied for and granted, to +pass directly through Bayonne. With bayonets fixed, band +playing, and colours flying, we accordingly marched along the +streets of that city; a large proportion of the garrison being +drawn up to receive us, and the windows crowded with spectators, +male and female, eager to behold the troops from whom not long +ago they had probably expected a visit of a very different +nature. The scene was certainly remarkable enough, and the +transition from animosity to good-will as singular as it was +sudden; nor do I imagine that it would be easy to define the +sensations of either party, on being thus strangely brought n +contact with the other. The females, indeed, waved their +handkerchiefs, whilst we bowed and kissed our hands; but I +thought I could discover something like a suppressed scowl upon +the countenances of the military. Certain it is, that in +whatever light the new state of affairs might be regarded by the +great bulk of the nation, with the army it was by no means +popular; and at this period they appeared to consider the passage +of British troops through their lines as the triumphal +entrance of a victorious enemy. + +_________________________ +* The bridge here alluded to was thrown across the Adour by the + Duke of Wellington at the commencement of the siege. It was + composed of a number of small fishing vessels fastened together + with cords, and planked from one to another, the whole firmly + moored about three miles below Bayonne. Whether the + daringness of the attempt, or the difficulties surmounted in + its completion, be considered, the construction of this bridge + may be looked upon as one of the most extraordinary actions of + that extraordinary man. +--------------------------- + +As soon as we had cleared the entrenchments of Bayonne, and got +beyond the limits of the allied camps, we found ours in a country +more peaceful and more picturesque than any we had yet traversed. +There were here no signs of war or marks of violence. The +cottages were covered with honeysuckle and roses, the gardens +were blooming in the most perfect order; the corn was growing in +great plenty and richness, and the vines were clustering round +their poles like the hops in the gardens of Kent. It is +impossible to describe the feeling of absolute refreshment which +such a sight stirred up in men who, for so long a time, had +looked upon nothing but ruin and devastation. It is true that +with respect to grandeur, or even beauty, the scenery through +which we now travelled was not to be compared with the sublime +passes of the Pyrenees, or with many spots which we had beheld; +but in truth, a hamlet uninjured and tenanted by its own rude +peasantry, a field of Indian corn exhibiting no wasteful track of +foragers, nay, a single cottage with its flowers and evergreens +budding around it, was at this a more welcome object to our eyes +than the wildest mountains or most romantic valleys displaying no +habitations except white tents and no inhabitants except +soldiers. For my own part I felt as if I had once more returned +into the bosom of civilized and domestic life, after having been +for many months a wanderer and a savage. + +The road along which we proceeded had been made by Napoleon, and +was remarkably good. It was sheltered, on each side, from the +rays of the sun, by groves of cork-trees mingled with fir; by +which means, though the day was overpoweringly hot, we did not +suffer so much as we should otherwise have done. Our march was, +therefore, exceedingly agreeable, and we came in, about noon, +very little fatigued, to the village of Ondres, where the tents +were pitched, and we remained till the morrow. + +CHAPTER III. + +LES LANDES + + +THE dawn was just beginning to appear, when the bugles sounded, +and the tents were struck. For the first few leagues, our route +to-day resembled that of yesterday, in almost every particular. +There was the same appearance of peaceful quiet, the same +delightful intermingling of woods, corn-fields, vineyards, and +pasture; but we had not proceeded far, when a marked difference +was perceptible; every step we trod, the soil became more and +more sandy, the cultivation less frequent, and the wood more +abundant, till at last we found ourselves marching through the +heart of an immense forest of pines. We had diverged, it +appeared, from the main road, which carries the traveller through +a rich and open country, and were pursuing another through the +middle of those deserts and savannahs which lie towards the +coast; a district known by the name of les Landes. There was +something, if not beautiful, at least new and striking in the +scenery now around us. Wherever the eye turned, it was met by +one wide waste of gloomy pine-trees; diversified, here and there, +by the unexpected appearance of a modest hamlet, which looked as +if it were the abode of some newly arrived settlers in a country +hitherto devoid of human habitations. + +Were I to continue the detail of a long march through these +barren regions, I should soon fatigue, without amusing my reader: +I shall, therefore, content myself with observing, that day after +day the same dreary prospect presented itself, varied by the +occasional occurrence of huge uncultivated plains, which +apparently chequer the forest, at certain intervals, with spots +of stunted and unprofitable pasturage; upon these there were +usually flocks of sheep grazing, in the mode of watching which, +the peasants fully evinced the truth of the old proverb, that +necessity is the mother of invention. I do not know whether the +practice to which I allude be generally known, but as it struck +me as very remarkable, I shall offer no apology for relating it. + +The whole of this district, as well where it is wooded, as where +it is bare, is perfectly flat, containing scarcely a knoll or +eminence any sort, as far as the eye can reach. In addition to +this, the vast plains where the sheep are fed, many of which +extend two or three leagues in every direction, produce not so +much as a fir-tree, by climbing which, a man might see to any of +its extremities: and the consequence is, that the shepherds are +constantly in danger of losing their sheep, as one loses sight of +a vessel at sea, in the distance. To remedy this evil, they have +fallen upon a plan not more simple than ingenious; they all walk +on stilts, exactly similar to those with which our school-boys +amuse themselves; the only difference lying here, that whereas +the school-boys' stilts are with us seldom raised above ten or +twelve inches from the ground, those of the French peasants are +elevated to the height of six or eight feet. + +When we first caught a glimpse of these figures, it was in the +dusk of the morning, and for awhile we were willing to persuade +ourselves that the haze had deceived us, by seeming to enlarge +bodies beyond their real dimensions. But when we looked at the +trees, we saw them in their own proper size, nor could we suppose +that the atmosphere would have an effect upon one object, which +it had not upon another; yet there appeared to be no other way of +accounting for the phenomenon, unless indeed this wild country +were the parent of a race of giants, for the men whom we saw +resembled moving towers rather than mortals. I need not observe +that our astonishment was very great; nor, in was it much +diminished when, on a nearer approach, we discovered the truth, +and witnessed the agility with which they moved, and the ease +with which, aided by the poles which each carried in his hand, +they would stoop to the ground, pick up the article, and stand +upright again. But if we admired the skill of one or two +individuals, our admiration rose to a still higher pitch when we +saw crowds of them together, all equally skilful; till they +informed us that the thing was not an amusement, but universally +practised for the purpose I have stated. + +Besides this, I know of nothing in the customs of this isolated +people at all worthy of notice, unless, indeed, it be their +method of supplying themselves with lights. Being completely cut +off from the rest of the world, it is not in their power, except +when once or twice a-year they travel to the nearest towns with +their wool, to purchase candles; and as they have no notion how +these can be made, they substitute in their room a lamp, fed with +the turpentine extracted from the fir-trees. The whole process +is simple and primitive: to obtain the turpentine they out a hole +in the tree, and fasten a dish in it to catch the sap as it oozes +through; and as soon as the dish is filled, they put a wick of +cotton into the midst of the liquor, and burn it as we do a lamp. +The light is not indeed of the most brilliant nature, but it is +at least better than none; and as they have fir-trees in +abundance within their reach, there is no danger of their oil +being quickly exhausted. + +MARCH TO BORDEAUX + +In this manner was an entire week expended, each succeeding day +introducing us to a repetition of the same adventures, and a +renewal of the same scenery, which had amused us during the day +before; nor was it till the morning of the twenty-third that we +at last began to emerge from the forests, and to find ourselves +once again in a more open country. At first, however, it cannot +be said that, with respect to beauty, the change was greatly for +the better. Upon the borders of the deserts there is a little +village called Le Barp, where we spent the night of the +twenty-second; from whence, till you arrive at a place called +Belle-Vue, the country is exactly in that state which land +assumes when nature has begun to lose ground, and art to gain +it--when the wild simplicity of the one is destroyed, and the +rich luxuriance of the other has not yet been superinduced. So +far, therefore, we proceeded, regretting, rather than rejoicing, +that we had quitted the woods; but no sooner had we attained that +point, than there burst upon us, all on a sudden, a prospect as +gloriously fertile as ever delighted the eyes of a weary +traveller. + +BORDEAUX + +Instead of boundless forests of pine, the whole face of the +country was now covered with vineyards, interspersed, in the most +exquisite and tasteful manner, with corn-fields and meadows of +the the richest pasturage. Nor was there any deficiency of +timber; a well-wooded chateau, with its lawn and plantations, +here and there presenting itself, while quiet hamlets and +solitary cottages, scattered in great abundance over the scene, +gave to it an appearance of life and prosperity exceedingly +bewitching. Had there been but the addition of a fine river +flowing through the midst of it, and had the ground been somewhat +more broken into hill and dale, I should have pronounced it the +most enchanting prospect of the kind I had ever beheld; but, +unfortunately, both these were wanting. Though the effect of a +first view, therefore, was striking and delightful, and though to +the last we could not help acknowledging the richness of the land +and its high state of cultivation, its beauty soon began to pall. +The fact is, that an immense plain, however adorned by the +labour of man, is not an object upon which it is pleasing to gaze +for any length of time; the eye becomes wearied with the extent +of its own stretch, and as there is no boundary but the horizon, +the imagination is left to picture a continuance of the same +plain, till it becomes as tired of fancying as the eye is of +looking. Besides, we were not long in discovering that the +vineyards were unworthy to be compared, in point of luxuriant +appearance, with those of Spain and the more southern regions of +France. In this neighbourhood the vine is not permitted to grow +to a greater height than or four feet from the ground; whereas in +Spain, and on the borders, it climbs, like the hop-plant in +England, to the top of high poles, and hangs over from one row to +another, in the most graceful festoons. In spite of these +objections, however, no one could do otherwise than admit that +the change we had experienced was agreeable, and we continued to +move on with greater alacrity, till it was evident, from the increasing +number of seats and villas, that we were rapidly approaching the vicinity +of Bordeaux. + +Nor was it long before the towers and buildings of that +magnificent city began to be discernible in the distance. +Prompted by I know not what impulse, we almost involuntarily +quickened our pace at the sight, and in a short time reached the +suburbs, which like those of most French towns, are composed of +low houses, inhabited by the poorest and meanest of the people. +Here we halted for a few minutes to refresh the men, when having +again resumed the line of march, we advanced under a triumphal +arch, originally erected in honour of Napoleon, but now inscribed +with the name of the Duke d'Angouleme, and ornamented with +garlands of flowers. Passing under this, we proceeded along one +or two handsome streets, till we reached the Military Hospital, a +large and commodious structure fitted up for the reception of +several thousands of sick, where it was arranged that we should +spend the night. + +The city of Bordeaux has been too often described, and is too +well known to my countrymen, in general, to render any particular +account of it at all necessary from me; and were the case +otherwise, I confess that my opportunities of examining it were +not sufficient to authorize my entering upon such an attempt. The +whole extent of our sojourn was only during the remainder of that +day (and it was past noon before we got in) and the ensuing +night; a space of time which admitted of no more than a hurried +stroll through some of the principal streets, and a hasty visit +to such public buildings as are considered most worthy of +attention. The palace of the Duke d'Angouleme, the Military +Hospital, the Theatre, and the Cathedral, are all remarkably fine +of their kind; whilst the public gardens, the Exchange, and +fashionable promenades, are inferior only to those of Paris +itself. + +MACAU + +I have said that our sojourn in Bordeaux was limited to the short +space of a few hours. We could have wished indeed to prolong it, +but to wish was needless, for at an early hour next morning we +were again in motion, and proceeded to an extensive common, near +the village of Macau, about three leagues from Bordeaux, where we +found a considerable force already assembled. Judging from the +number of tents upon the heath, I conceive that there could not +be fewer than eight or ten thousand men in that camp, the whole +of whom, we naturally concluded, were destined for the same +service with ourselves. The sight was at once pleasing and +encouraging, because there could be no doubt that such a force, +ably commanded, would carry everything before it. + +In this situation we continued, without the occurrence of any +incident deserving of record, till the 27th, when an order +arrived for the officers to dispose of their horses without +delay. This was necessarily done at an enormous loss; and on the +morning of the 28th, we set forward towards the point of +embarkation. But, alas! in the numbers allotted for the +trans-Atlantic war, we found ourselves grievously disappointed, +since, instead of the whole division, only two regiments, neither +of them surpassingly numerous, were directed to move; it was not +our business, however, to question the wisdom of any measure +adopted by our superiors; and we accordingly marched on in as +high spirits as if we had been followed by the entire Peninsular +army. + +The remainder of our journey occupied two days, nor do I often +remember to have spent a similar space of time with greater +satisfaction; our route lay through some of the most fertile +districts in France, passing Chateau Margaux, famous for its +wine, with other places not inferior to it either in richness of +soil or in beauty of prospect. The weather was delightful, and +the grapes, though not yet ripe, were hanging in heavy bunches +from the vines, giving promise of much wealth to come; the hay +season had commenced, and numerous groups of happy-looking peasants +were busy in every field; in short, it was a march upon which I shall +never look back without pleasure. + + LA MOE.--AT SEA + +The close of the first day's progress brought us to a village +called La Moe, beautifully situated within view of the majestic +waters of the Garonne. Here, for the first time since we quitted +Bayonne, were we quartered upon the inhabitants--a measure which +the loss of our tents rendered necessary. They received us with +so much frankness, and treated us with so much civility, I had +almost said kindness, that it was not without a feeling of +something like regret that we parted from them. The second day +carried us to Pauliac, an inconsiderable town upon the banks of +the same river, where we found boats ready to convey us to the +shipping, which lay at anchor to receive us. + +To embark the troops in these boats, and to huddle them on board +two dirty little transports, occupied some time, and the +provoking part of the business was, that all this trouble was to +be gone through again. The men-of-war in which we were to cross +the Atlantic, could not come up so high for want of water; and on +this account it was that transports were sent as passage-boats to +carry us to them. But the wind was foul, and blew so strong that +the masters would not venture to hoist a sail; so we were obliged +to endure the misery of a crowd in a small vessel for two nights +and a day; nor was it till past noon on the 31st, that the +regiment to which I was attached found itself finally settled in +His Majesty's ship -------- of 64 guns. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +AT SEA + +THE land army, destined for the invasion of the United States, +which took shipping at this period in the Garonne, consisted but +of three battalions of infantry, the 4th, 44th, and 85th +regiments; the two former mustering each about eight hundred +bayonets, the last not more than six hundred. In addition to +these, there were two officers of engineers, a brigade of +artillery, a detachment of sappers and miners, a party of +artillery drivers, with a due proportion of officers belonging to +the Medical and Commissariat departments. The whole together +could not be computed at more than two thousand five hundred men, +if indeed it amounted to so great a number; and was placed under +the command of Major-General Ross, a very gallant and experienced +officer. + +The fleet, again, consisted of the Royal Oak, of 74 guns, bearing +the flag of Rear-Admiral Malcolm; the Diadem and Dictator, two +sixty-fours, armed en flute; the Pomone, Menelaus, Trave, Weser, +and Thames, frigates, the three last armed in the same manner as +the Diadem and Dictator; the Meteor and Devastation, +bomb-vessels; together with one or two gun-brigs, making in all a +squadron of eleven or twelve ships of war, with several +storeships and transports. + +On board the Royal Oak were embarked the General, with his staff, +and the artillery; the Trave and Weser were filled with the 4th; +the 44th were divided between the Dictator and the Thames, in the +first of which ships were also the engineers; the 85th occupied +the Diadem; and the rest were scattered through the fleet, partly +in the men-of-war and partly in the transports. + +As soon as the troops, with all their baggage, were finally +settled in the vessels allotted for their accommodation, the +signal was made to weigh; but the wind being adverse, and the +navigation of the Garonne far from simple, it could not be +obeyed with safety. Every thing, therefore, remained quiet till +the evening of the 2nd of June, when the gale moderating a +little, the anchors were raised and the sails hoisted. The tide +was beginning to ebb when this was done, favoured by which the +ships drifted gradually on their course; but before long, the +breeze shifting, blew directly in their sterns, when they stood +gallantly to sea, clearing the river before dark; and, as there +was no lull during the whole of the night, by daybreak the coast +of France was not to be discerned. All was now one wide waste +of waters, as far as the eye could reach, bounded on every side by +the distant horizon; a scene which, though at first it must +strike with awe and wonder a person unaccustomed to it, soon +becomes insipid, and even wearisome, from its constant sameness. + +ST. MICHAEL'S + +The fair wind which carried us out of the Garonne continuing to +blow without any interruption till the 19th of June, it was that +day calculated, by consulting the log and taking observations, +that the Azores, or Western Islands, could not be very distant. +Nor, as it turned out, were these calculations incorrect; for, on +ascending the deck next morning, the first object that met our +eyes was the high land of St Michael's rising, like a collection +of blue clouds, out of the water. With such a prospect before +us our consternation may be guessed at, when we found ourselves +deserted by the breeze which had hitherto so uniformly favoured +us, and lying as motionless as logs, under the influence of a +dead calm. + +But the complaints to which we had begun to give utterance, were +speedily changed again into rejoicings, for before mid-day the +breeze once more freshened, and we approached every moment nearer +and nearer to the object of our wishes. As soon, too, as we +contrived to double the projecting headland which had attracted +our attention in the morning, our course became productive of +much interest and pleasure. We had neared the shore +considerably, and were moving at a rate sufficiently rapid to +prevent further repining, and at the same time slow enough to +permit a distinct and calm survey of the beach, with the numerous +villages, seats, and convents that adorned it. + +The island of St. Michael is mountainous, even to the very edge +of the water, but the heights, though lofty, do not present a +rugged or barren appearance. Here and there, indeed, bare rocks +push themselves into notice, but in general the ascent is easy, +and the hills are covered to the tops with groves of orange-trees +and beautiful green pasturage. Like other Portuguese +settlements, this island abounds in religious houses, the +founders of many of which do not appear to have been deficient in +taste when they pitched upon situations for building. There was +one of these in particular that struck me: it stood upon a sort +of platform or terrace, about half-way between the sea and the +summit of the mountain; above it were hanging woods, whether +natural or artificial I cannot say, broken in upon here and there +by projecting rocks; and round it were plantations of orange-trees +loaded with fruit, and interspersed with myrtles and other +odoriferous shrubs. Being greatly pleased with the mansion and +the surrounding scenery, I naturally inquired from the pilot (for +one had already come off to us) as to its use, and the quality of +Its owner; and from him I learnt that it was a convent, I forget +of what order,--a piece of intelligence which was soon confirmed +by the sound of bells distinctly audible as we passed. + +VILLA FRANCA. + +In this manner we continued to coast along, being seldom at a +greater distance than four or five miles from the land, till we +came opposite to a small town called Villa Franca. Here, as the +wind threatened to die away, several others and myself agreed to +go onshore: a boat was accordingly lowered, and we pushed off +from the ship; but the operation of landing did not prove to be +altogether so simple as we had expected. An immense reef of +rocks, some under water, others barely above it, but none +distinguishable till we had almost run against them, opposed our +progress; and it was not without considerable difficulty, and +the assistance of the country people, who made signals to us from +the beach, that we contrived to discover a narrow channel leading +up to the strand. + +Having at length so far attained our wishes as to tread once more +upon firm ground, the next thing to be done was to find out some +inn, or house of public entertainment, where we might pass the +night, a measure which the increasing darkness rendered +necessary. In this, however, we were disappointed, the town of +Villa Franca boasting of no such convenience on any scale. But +we were not on that account obliged to bivouac; for the Alcalde, +or mayor of the place, politely insisted upon our accompanying +him home, and entertained us with great hospitality; nor, in +truth, had we any cause to regret the unsuccessful issue of our +inquiries, since, in addition to the good cheer with which we +were presented, our host, being an intelligent person, did not +fail to render himself an agreeable companion; and what +contributed in no slight degree to the facility of our +intercourse was, that though he assured us he had never quitted +St. Michael's in his life, he spoke English with the fluency of a +native. Among other pieces of information we learnt from him +that the reef which impeded our progress towards the land, had +formerly been an island. It appeared, he affirmed, one morning, +in the most sudden and extraordinary manner, as if it had been +thrown up by an earthquake during the night, and having continued +so long above water as to embolden a single family of fishers to +settle upon it, it disappeared again as suddenly as it had come, +leaving no trace of its existence except the rocks which we had +found so troublesome. Whether there be truth in this story, I +cannot pretend to determine; and yet I see no reason to doubt the +word of a man of respectability, who could have no motive +whatever for deceiving us. But this was not all that we learnt +from him respecting the reef. He declared that previous to the +appearance of the island, the water in that very spot was +unfathomable; and it was not till after it had sunk, that a +single rock stood in the way to prevent the largest ship of war +from anchoring within a stone's throw of the beach. + +Finding our new acquaintance so civil and obliging, we naturally +informed him of our intention to proceed next morning to Ponto +del Gada, the principal town in St. Michael's, and requested his +assistance in procuring some mode of conveyance; but we were +startled by the intelligence that nothing of the kind could be +had, and that there were not even horses or mules to be hired at +any place nearer than the very town whither we were going. This +was rather an alarming piece of news, for our boat had left us, +the weather was too hot for walking, and the distance to be +travelled full fifteen miles. Had we been prudent enough to +detain our boat, the matter would have been easily managed, +because we might have sailed round to the point where the fleet +was to anchor; but this was no longer in our power, and being +rather unwilling to pursue our journey on foot, we were +altogether at a loss upon what course to determine. Whilst we +thus hesitated, the Alcalde suggested that if we would condescend +to ride upon asses, he thought he could obtain a sufficient +number for our party; a proposal with which we gladly closed, +prudently determining that any mode of being carried was better +than walking. Leaving the arrangement of this affair, therefore, +to our obliging friend, we retired to rest upon clean comfortable +mattresses spread for us on the floor; and on waking in the +morning, we found that he had not been negligent in the charge +assigned to him. Our party consisted of five officers, with five +servants, for whose accommodation we found ten asses at the door, +each attended by its driver, who wielded a long pole tipped with +an iron spike, for the purpose of goading the animal whenever it +should become lazy. + +It was not without a good deal of laughing that the cavalcade, +after bidding adieu to the hospitable Mayor, began to move +forward. Our asses, of no larger size than ordinary English +donkeys, were uncaparisoned, at least with bridles; and the +saddles were neither more nor less than the pack-saddles upon +which goods are transported to market. For our own comfort, +therefore, we were obliged to sit a la femelle, and having no +command over the heads of our steeds, we were content to be +guided by the hallooing and punching of the drivers. In spite, +however, of these inconveniences, if so they may be called, I +shall never cease to congratulate myself on having been of the +party, because the ride proved to be one of the most agreeable I +remember at any time to have taken. + +The road from Villa Franca to Ponto del Gada quits the water's +edge, and turns, for a little way, inland, carrying you through a +region as romantic and beautiful as can well be imagined. There +are here no level plains, no smooth paths over which a landau or +tilbury might glide, but, on the contrary, a rugged and stony +track, sometimes leading down the face of steep hills, sometimes +scaling heights which at the distance of a mile appear to be +almost perpendicular, and sometimes winding along the side of a +cliff, and by the edge of a fearful precipice. Except when you +reach the summit of a mountain, the road is in general shaded by +the richest underwood, hanging over it from above; but the whole +aspect of the country is decidedly that of a volcanic production: +the rocks seem to have been cast up and torn asunder by some +prodigious violence, and hurled, by a force which nothing but a +volcano could possess, into the most grotesque and irregular +shapes. It is no uncommon thing to pass under a huge crag, +leaning almost horizontally over the road, and bedded in the +earth by a foundation apparently so slight, as to appear liable +to fall every moment, precipitating the enormous mass upon the +luckless wretch beneath. Nay, the very colour of the stones, and +the quantity of what bears every resemblance to vitrification, +scattered about, all tend to induce the, belief that the main +island owes its formation to the same cause which doubtless +produced the smaller one that has now disappeared. + + ST. MICHAEL'S + +It is not, however, to be inferred from the above description +that St. Michael's is nothing but a barren rock; far from it. +There is, indeed, in this direction at least, a fair proportion +of that commodity; but tracts of cultivated ground are not +therefore wanting. I should not certainly suppose that the soil +was remarkably rich in any part of the island; but it produces +the fig, the orange-tree, and a grape from which the inhabitants +make very tolerable wine; and there is excellent pasture for +sheep, and a competent supply of grain. But that in which the +Azores, and St. Michael's among the number, particularly excel, +is the extreme salubrity of the climate. Lying in nearly the +same degree of latitude with Lisbon, the intense heat which +oppresses in that city is here alleviated by refreshing +sea-breezes; by which means, though I believe there is no +occasion at any season to complain of cold, it is only in the +very height of the dog-days, if then, that a person, not actually +engaged in violent exercise, is justified in complaining of +sultriness. + +The trade of St. Michael's, as far as I could learn, is confined +exclusively to fruit: the fig and the orange are the staple +commodities; and being both very abundant, they are, of course, +proportionably cheap. Into the praise of a St. Michael's orange +it is unnecessary for me to enter, because it is generally +allowed to be the best with which the English market is supplied; +but of the excellence of the St. Michael's fig, I am not sure +that my countrymen in general are so much aware. It might be, +that not having seen a fig for a considerable lapse of time, my +appetite was peculiarly sharpened towards its good qualities, but +it struck me that I never before tasted any so highly flavoured +or so delicate. Besides these, they sell to vessels putting in, +as we did, for water, some of the wine made in this and the +neighbouring islands; but the quantity thus disposed of must be +too inconsiderable to entitle it to be classed among the articles +of merchandise. + +I find, however, that I am entering upon subjects in which I am +but little versed, and digressing from my narrative. Let me +return, then, to self, that beloved idol of all travellers, and +state that, after we had ridden about six miles, the road, which +had hitherto conducted us along a narrow glen, where the vision +was intercepted on both sides, now carried us to the summit of a +lofty mountain, from whence we enjoyed the satisfaction of an +extensive prospect, both of the sea and of the interior. Looking +towards the former, we beheld our own fleet bearing down +majestically upon Ponto del Gada, and fast approaching the +anchorage. Turning our eyes inland again, we were delighted with +a view of mountain and valley, rock and culture, wood and +pasturage, intermingled in the most exquisite degree of +irregularity; but what principally attracted our attention was a +thick dark smoke rising slowly from the summit of a high hill +that bounded the prospect. Our curiosity being excited by this +phenomenon, we inquired from our guides into its cause, and were +informed that the mountain in question was a volcano, and that at +its base and along its sides were hot springs of water, of a +temperature sufficient to boil an egg in three minutes. This +piece of intelligence confirmed me in my former opinion relative +to the operative cause in the production of these islands; +though, indeed, had such evidence been wanting, I should have +equally concluded, either that they were thrown up, in their +present form, from the bottom of the sea, or at least that they +were torn asunder from one another by the force of fire. It must +be confessed, however, that mine is the opinion of one who has +devoted little of his attention to geology; but I would by all +means advise the disciples of Werner to come hither, if they +desire further helps in the prosecution of that very interesting +and practically useful study. + + + +Chapter V. + + +DESCENDING the mountain, on which we had paused for a few minutes +to feast our eyes and satisfy our curiosity, we arrived at a +small hamlet, or rather a group of two or three hovels, as +romantically situated as it is possible for the imagination of +man to conceive. They stood at the further end of a sort of +recess, formed by the hills, which are here broken into a +circular valley, cut off, to all appearance, from the rest of the +habitable world; behind them rose a towering crag, as +perpendicular as the drop of a plummet, from the top of which a +little rivulet came tumbling down, giving to the scene an +appearance of the most delightful coolness, and amusing the ear +with the unceasing roar of a waterfall. From the very face of +the cliff, where there seemed to be scarcely soil enough to +nourish a thistle, numerous shrubs and dwarf trees protruded +themselves; whilst above it, and on every side of the area, the +hills were covered with wood, interrupted now and then by the +bald forehead of a blackened rock. In front of the hamlet again, +there was an opening sufficient to admit the most delicious +glimpse of the ocean; and through this the stream, after boiling +for awhile in a little basin, which it has excavated for itself +out of what resembles the foundation of the cliff, makes its way, +brawling over a clear pebbly bottom, till it joins the sea. + +This paragon of valleys burst upon us as such scenes, to be +witnessed with advantage, ought to do, without the slightest +warning or expectation. The road by which we approached it, +being completely shut in with wood, and winding considerably to +aid the descent, brought us out nearly at the gorge of the vale, +so as to throw the hamlet, the cliff, and the waterfall into the +background; and as the whole was of such extent as to be taken in +at one glance, the effect was striking beyond anything of the +kind I ever witnessed. It is but natural to suppose that we had +no desire to hurry through such a glen as this; and seeded not +the additional motive which the weariness of our donkeys +afforded, to persuade us to a temporary halt. Giving the +animals, therefore, to the care of their owners, we dismounted, +and went into some of the cabins, the inhabitants of which +appeared to be as simple as the situation of their abodes had +prepared us to expect. The men were all goatherds, and the women +seemed to be as idle as their countrywomen in Portugal, sitting +at the doors of their houses, surrounded by groups of half-naked +and filthy-looking children. If it be fair to judge from their +dress and the furniture of their hovels, they were miserably +poor, though perfectly contented; they did not ask us for money, +but astonished, I suppose, at the glaring colour of our coats, +they were very inquisitive to know who we were and whence we had +come. The English, the French, and the Portuguese seemed to be +the only three nations of whose existence they had any knowledge; +and having been assured, in answer to their first question, that +we were not French, they immediately added, "Then you must be +English." They did not appear, however, to be without some +degree of cunning, for as long as we paused in replying to their +query, they were silent; but no sooner had we answered in the +negative than they launched forth into the most violent +invectives against the French; convincing us that the animosity +of the mother-country towards its barbarous invaders was not more +implacable than that of the colonies. + +Having loitered away half an hour in this romantic spot, and +distributed a few dollars among its inhabitants, we remounted our +steeds and continued our journey. The remainder of the ride +carried us through scenery very similar to what we had already +passed; the only difference was, that the nearer we approached to +Ponto del Gada the more frequent became the spots of cultivation, +the width and smoothness of the road improving in proportion; +till at last, when we had attained the brow of an eminence, from +whence the town with its port and bay were distinguishable, we +looked down upon an extensive valley, richly covered with fields +of standing corn. Quickening our pace, we soon entered the +capital of St. Michael's, and were conducted by the drivers to a +good hotel, kept by an Englishwoman of the name of Currie, where +we found every accommodation which we could desire, at a very +moderate expense. + +PONTO DEL GADA + +As we had started at an early hour from Villa Franca, the clocks +were just striking ten when we alighted at Mrs. Currie's hotel; +consequently, there was a long day yet before us, in which we +might see everything that was to be seen in the place. Having +discharged our muleteers, therefore, who seemed overjoyed at the +receipt of one dollar a-piece, swallowed a hasty breakfast, and +made ourselves somewhat comfortable, we lost no time in setting +out upon a stroll of examination and discovery. + +Ponto del Gada is, on the whole, rather a neat town, containing +from twelve to fourteen thousand inhabitants; but being built, +especially in the outskirts, without much regard to compactness, +it covers more ground than many places of double the amount in +population. It stands upon a little bay, formed by two +projecting headlands, and can boast of a tolerable harbour +excellent roadstead. In its immediate vicinity the country a +more uniformly level than any I had yet observed; the vale +extending to the distance of four or five miles on every side, +had ending in an amphitheatre of low green hills, which resemble +appearance, the downs as they are seen from Eastbourne in Sussex. +The whole of this flat is in a state of high cultivation, being +cleared, perhaps too completely, of wood, and portioned off into +different fields and parks by hedges and stone walls. Judging +from the appearance of the crops, I should conceive that the +soil was here of some depth, as well as fertility, the whole +valley being covered with wheat, barley, and Indian corn. And in +truth, if the aspect of the country beyond the downs, where rocks +tower one above another in rude and barren grandeur, furnish a +legitimate criterion by which to determine respecting the general +fertility of the island, I should be almost tempted to believe +that the whole industry of its people has been expended upon this +spot, simply because it was the only one capable of rewarding it. +I was assured, however, by the natives, that such is not the case; +and that, in the interior, and towards the opposite coast, the +rugged magnificence of mountain scenery gives place to a more +profitable though less picturesque champaign. + +The principal streets of Ponto del Gada are paved, and kept once +cool and clean by a. constant sprinkling of water, which is the +business of two or three men stationed at pumps within obtain +distance of one another, to scatter over them. Of the by-streets +little can be said in praise, they being, like those of other +Portuguese towns, composed of mean cottages, unpaved, and +extremely dirty. There is, however, an air of elegance given to +the town, particularly when looked at from a distance, by the +intermixture of orange-groves among the houses; the largest of +these, wherever they happen to stand, being, in general, +surrounded by extensive gardens, all of which are abundantly +stocked with that graceful and odoriferous plant. Add to this +the number of towers and spires with which its numerous churches +and convents are supplied, and the first aspect of the whole may +be conceived to be extremely striking and imposing. + +As soon as we had taken a hurried survey of the streets, the next +object of attention was the religious houses. In these there was +but little to admire, the architecture being of the plainest +kind, and even the chapels as much wanting in ornament as can be +imagined. There were, indeed, in most of them some trifling +attempts at carved work and gilding upon the roof, a little +stained glass, neither rich nor ancient, in the windows, and a +few tawdry pictures suspended above the altars; but the general +appearance was decidedly that of buildings which did not even aim +at beauty or grandeur. The monks we found a good-natured, +obliging set of men, very willing to give us any information in +their power; by one of whom we were fortunate enough to be +conducted through a convent of Augustine friars. Into their mode +of living it is not to be supposed that we could obtain much +insight. It seemed, however, to be less indolent than that of +some convents which we had visited in the old country, and +approached proportionably nearer to a college life among +ourselves; though it must be admitted that the fellows and +undergraduates of Oxford and Cambridge have a better notion of +both comfort and elegance than the Augustine friars of +St. Michael's. Of the nuns we of course saw nothing, excepting +through the grates. We found them full of curiosity, and eager +to know as much as they could learn of the world from which they +were excluded; but quite as fond of flirting as any set of young +ladies at a boarding-school. It was amusing to observe their +mode of begging, for all the nuns in this part of the world are +licensed beggars. The younger and fairer members of the +sisterhood came to the grate first; chatted, sung, and presented +us with artificial flowers, and then retiring, made way for the +old and the ugly, who requested a little money for the good of +our souls and their bodies. To solicitations thus expressed it +was impossible to turn a deaf ear, and the consequence was, that +we soon discovered it to be quite as expensive an amusement to +flirt with a nun, as with any other belle in London or elsewhere. + +Besides the churches and convents, amounting in all to not fewer +than nine, there is a fort erected for the protection of the +harbour, which we likewise endeavoured to see, but were prevented +by the sentinel at the gate, who refused us admittance. The +disappointment, however, was not great, as it was easy to +perceive, from its outward appearance, that the fort could +possess few points worthy of observation; and, indeed, we +attributed the reluctance evinced in admitting strangers to its +utter uselessness as a place of defence. + +To describe all this occupies but a small portion of time; but to +see it was the laborious employment of an entire day. Wearied +out at length with my exertions, and not feeling much rewarded, +at least for the latter part of my trouble, I returned in +the evening to the hotel, where, as the ships were still at +anchor, taking on board water and fresh provisions, I ventured to +spend the night. + +Having thus discovered that there was little in the works of art, +and a great deal in those of nature, throughout St. Michael's, to +interest the traveller, a friend and myself determined to set off +next morning on a visit to the volcano. With this design we +ordered asses, for asses are the only animals for hire, to be in +readiness by daybreak; and finding them in waiting at the time +appointed, we took a guide with us and pushed forward in the +direction of the dark smoke. The mountain with its crater being +distinctly visible from Ponto del Gada, we took it for granted +the distance between the two places could not exceed twelve or +fourteen miles; but, on inquiring of our guide, we learned that +the nearest road would carry us at least twenty-seven miles from +the town. This was at once a startling and unpleasant piece of +intelligence, affecting our arrangements in no trifling degree. +To proceed was dangerous, because, mounted as we were, to go and +return in one day was impossible; and, if we remained so far from +the shipping during the night, the fleet might sail v before we +should be able to get back. On the the other hand, to give up +our design, and quit a country where a volcano was to be seen, +without seeing it, appeared rather a mortifying prospect. After +weighing for a few minutes the chances on both sides, I shall not +say with the utmost impartiality, curiosity finally prevailed +over apprehension; and, in order to prevent any further +repentance and consequent change of mind, we put our donkeys into +a gallop, and hurried on as fast as they could carry us. But the +speed of the asses and our own venturous determination proved, +after all, equally unavailing; for, on gaining the summit of the +downs, and looking back upon the fleet, we beheld, to our great +sorrow, the signal for sailing displayed at the topmasts of all +the ships. Mortified at our disappointment, and at the same time +rejoicing that we had got no farther on our journey, we were +compelled to turn our asses' heads, and to retrace our steps +towards Ponto del Gada, where we found everything in the bustle +and confusion of a re-embarkation. The beach was covered with +sailors, soldiers, bullocks, and casks of fresh water, hurrying, +and being hurried, indiscriminately into the boats which had +arrived to take them off. The townspeople were running about +upon the strand, some offering their skiffs to convey the +officers on board the ships, some helping to swing the bullocks +into the barges, and others shouting and hallooing apparently +from the disinterested love of noise. In short, it was a scene +of great liveliness and bustle, perhaps rather too much so to be +agreeable. + +Seeing this universal eagerness to reach the fleet, we, like the +rest, threw ourselves into the first boat we could approach, and +in a short time found ourselves on board our own ship. But here +a very tantalizing piece of intelligence awaited us, for we +learnt that, in spite of all this show of preparation, the +Admiral had not begun to weigh anchor; and that no intention of +moving was entertained, at soonest, before the morrow. The +opportunity, however, was lost; it could not be recovered, and we +were obliged to submit as cheerfully as we could, though it was +impossible to help regretting, what had at first been a source of +consolation, the circumstance of our having caught a view of the +signal at the time we did. But, as the event proved, all had +turned out for the best; for on the day following the signal was +again repeated; and by way of giving additional weight to it, the +Admiral began to shake loose his topsails. Nor did it prove, +like that of yesterday, a false alarm. By mid-day, the +victualling and watering being complete, the fleet immediately +began to get under weigh; and, as the wind blew fair and fresh, +before dark the mountains of St. Michael's could be seen only +like a thin vapour in the sky. Next morning nothing but the old +prospect of air and water met the gaze, as we stood our course, +at a rapid rate, towards Bermuda. + +AT SEA + +The voyage from St. Michael's to Bermuda occupied the space of +almost an entire month, the first having been lost sight of on +the 27th of June, and it being the 24th of July before the low +shores of the last could be discerned. It was, however, a +passage of more interest and productive of more variety than that +from Bordeaux to the Azores. We had now arrived within the +influence of the tropical climate, and were not unfrequently +amused with water-spouts, and other phenomena peculiar to warm +regions. The flying-fish, likewise, and its pursuer, the +dolphin, afforded at least something to look at; whilst many idle +hours were whiled away in attempts to catch or strike the latter +with harpoons. In these we were not always unsuccessful, +consequently we enjoyed several opportunities of watching the +change of colour which that fish undergoes whilst it is dying; +and though the description generally given of it is certainly +indebted in some degree to the imagination of voyagers, I must +confess that the transitions from blue to purple, and from +purple to green, with all their intermediate shades, are +extremely beautiful. When the fish is in the water, it is by no +means remarkable for brilliancy of hue, and as as soon as it is +dead it returns to its original colour--a dingy sea-green; but +whilst it is floundering and flapping upon the deck, it is +impossible to say what is its real appearance, so many and so +different are the hues which it assumes. Nor did we escape +without the occasional occurrence of a less agreeable species of +variety; I mean squalls, thunder-storms, and whirlwinds. As we +approached Bermuda, indeed, these became too frequent to excite +any interest beyond an earnest desire that they would cease: but +while we were yet a good way off, and the incident rare, they +were witnessed with more of admiration than terror. + +Besides these amusements with which nature supplied us, we were +not backward in endeavouring to amuse ourselves. Being now +pretty well accustomed to the atmosphere of a ship, we began to +consider ourselves at home, and to give balls and other public +entertainments through the fleet. One of these I shall take leave +to describe, because I am sure it must interest from its novelty. +On the 19th of July, at an early hour in the morning, a signal +was made from the Royal Oak, that the Admiral would be happy to +see the officers of the fleet on board his ship that evening. +Boats were accordingly sent off from the different vessels, +loaded with visitors; and on mounting the gangway, a stage, with +a green curtain before it, was discovered upon the quarter-deck. +The whole of the deck, from the poop to the mainmast, was hung +round with flags, so as to form a moderate-sized theatre; and the +carronades were removed from their port-holes, in order to make +room for the company. Lamps were suspended from all parts of the +rigging and shrouds, casting a brilliant light upon this singular +playhouse; and the crew, arrayed in their best attire, crowded +the booms, yards, and fore part of the deck; whilst the space +from the mainmast to the foot of the stage was set with benches +for the more genteel part of the audience. + +At seven o'clock the curtain drew up, and discovered a scene +painted with such taste as would not have disgraced any theatre +in London. The play was the 'Apprentice,' with the 'Mayor of +Garret' as an afterpiece, performed by the officers of the ship +and of the artillery, and went off in high style, applauded, as +it deserved to be applauded, with the loudest acclamations. The +quarter-deck of a British line-of-battle ship has often enough +been a stage for the exhibition of bloody tragedies; but to +witness a comedy and a farce upon that stage, and in the middle +of the Atlantic Ocean, was delightful from its very singularity. +When the performance came to an end, the stage was knocked down, +the seats removed, and everything cleared for dancing. The music +was excellent, being composed of the band of the Royal Oak; and +the ball was opened by Admiral Malcolm and the Honourable Mrs. +Mullens, in a country dance, followed by as many couples as the +space would permit; the greater number of officers dancing, as +necessity required, with one another. In this amusement every +person, from the Admiral and General, down to the youngest ensign +and midshipman, joined, laying aside for the time all restraint +or form of discipline; and having kept it up with great spirit +till considerably beyond midnight, a blue light was hoisted as a +signal for the different boats to come off for the strangers, and +each returned to his own ship highly gratified with the evening's +entertainment. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +BERMUDA + +By employing ourselves in this manner, and by keeping up what is +emphatically called a good heart, we contrived to pass out time +agreeably enough. As often as the weather would permit, and the +fleet lay well together, we made parties of pleasure to the +different ships; when the wind was too high, and the fleet too +much scattered for such proceedings, we remained at home, and +amused ourselves in the best way we could. Some of the captains, +and ours among the number, were possessed of very tolerable +libraries, the doors of which they politely threw open for the +benefit of their military guests; and thus, by reading, fishing, +and boating, we were enabled to make head, with some success, +against the encroachments of ennui. It must be confessed, +however, that in spite of strenuous efforts to the contrary, that +determined enemy of all idle persons was beginning to gain ground +upon us, when, about mid-day on the 24th of July, a cry of land +was heard from the mast-head. All eyes were immediately turned +in the direction to which the sailor pointed, and as wind blew +fair and moderately fresh, no great length of time before the +same object was distinguishable from the deck. A signal was +immediately hoisted for a pilot, who lost no time in coming off +to us; and before dark we were at anchor opposite to the tanks in +Bermuda. + +The appearance of Bermuda is altogether as different from that of +St. Michael's as one thing can be from another. Whilst the last, +with its lofty mountains and bold shores, can be seen at the +distance of many leagues, a ship must be within a few miles of +the first before the slightest symptom of land is discernible. +On this account it is that mariners find greater difficulty in +making Bermuda than perhaps any other island or continent in the +known world; the most experienced seaman frequently sailing past +it, and not a few suffering shipwreck every year upon its +numerous shoals and rocks. For not only is the land itself low, +and thus apt to be run against by vessels which may have +approached in stormy weather too near to put about, but for many +miles round, reefs of sunken rocks stretch out into the sea in +every direction; insomuch, that even the approach to the +principal anchorage is no more than a narrow channel between two +reefs, in many places scarcely exceeding a mile or a mile and a +half in width. The navigation, even in calm weather, is +therefore attended with considerable danger; the idea of which is +greatly heightened by the remarkable clearness of the water and +the peculiar brightness of the rocks. In some places this is so +much the case, that the bottom may be seen at the depth of six or +seven fathoms; whilst the aspect of the reefs which lie on each +side, as you steer towards the anchorage, is such, as almost to +persuade you, contrary to the evidence of reason, that a man +might leap upon them from a boat without incurring the danger of +being wet above the knees. Yet these very reefs are seldom +covered with less than six, and sometimes with fourteen and +fifteen feet of water. + +Low as they are, the shores of Bermuda are nevertheless extremely +beautiful. They are covered with cedar, a tree which here, at +least, seldom exceeds the height of twenty feet, and from which, +before the sun has risen and after he has set, the land breeze +comes loaded with the most delicious perfume. Under the wood +there grows a rich short turf, apparently struggling to spread +itself over the chalky rocks, of which the entire island, or +rather islands, seem to be composed; and, as the houses of the +better orders are chiefly built within reach of the cool air from +the water, they, with their little lawns and gardens, produce a +lively and pleasing effect. + +As darkness had come on before the ship could be properly moored, +no boats were permitted to leave her that night; but at an early +hour next morning I embraced the first opportunity of going on +shore. To reach St. George's, the capital of the colony, you are +obliged to row for several miles up a narrow frith called the +ferry, immediately on entering which the scenery becomes in the +highest degree picturesque. Though still retaining its character +of low, the ground on each side looks as if it were broken into +little swells, the whole of them beautifully shaded with groves +of cedar, and many of them crowned with country-houses as white +as the drifted snow. But the fact is, that this appearance of +hill and dale is owing to the prodigious number of islands which +compose the cluster; there being in all, according to vulgar +report, not fewer than three hundred and sixty-five, of which the +largest exceeds not seven or eight miles in diameter. Yet it is +only when you follow what at first you are inclined to mistake for +a creek or the mouth of a river, that you discover the absence of +valleys from between these hills; and even then you are more apt +to fancy yourself upon the bosom of a lake studded with islets, +than steering amid spots of earth which stand, each of them +distinct, in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. + +In the town of St. George's there is nothing to be seen at all +worthy of record. It consists of about fifty or sixty houses, +the glare from which, as they are all built of the chalk stone, is +extremely dazzling to the eyes. It is called the capital, +because here the court-house stands and the magisterial sittings +are held; but in point of size, and, as far as I could learn, in +every other respect, it is greatly inferior to Hamilton, another +town at the opposite extremity of the cluster, which I did not +visit. A little way from St. George's, and on the summit of a +bare rock, stand the barracks, fitted up for the accommodation of +a thousand men; and about a mile and a half beyond them are the +tanks, well worth the notice of travellers. The object of this +work is to catch and preserve the rain--a measure which the total +deficiency of fresh springs throughout the colony renders +absolutely necessary. There are, indeed, wells dug upon the +beach, but the water in these is nothing more than sea-water, +filtered and rendered brackish in making its way through the +sand, and by no means fit to be used, at least in any quantity. +To supply this deficiency, the bad effects of which were +experienced in the unhealthiness of many of the crews upon the +American station, Government was induced to build these tanks; +consequently the water contained in them is the property of the +king, and none but king's ships, with the troops in garrison, are +permitted, except in extreme cases, to be supplied from thence. + +The climate of Bermuda has been extolled by many, and among the +rest by Mr. Moore in his odes and epistles, as salubrious and +delightful. It is possible that he, and the rest of its +eulogists, may have visited these islands at a season of the year +different from that in which I visited them, but to me the heat +was beyond measure oppressive. Lying, as they do, under the +influence of a vertical sun, and abounding in all directions with +cliffs of white chalk, it is obvious that the constant reflection +of the sun's rays thereby occasioned must be quite overpowering. +If these panegyrists mean to say, that as long as you contrive to +keep in the shade, and take care not to stir abroad till after +sunset, you will find the Bermudas deserving of their title of +summer-islands, then I will agree with them; but I believe there +is no man who ever walked the street of St. George's at noon, or +any other spot where the sun-beams could reach him, that did not +consider the heat as anything rather than temperate. + +But whatever may be thought of the climate, there can, I think, +be but one opinion as to the soil. It is generally admitted that +there is no more unproductive spot of earth upon the face of the +deep than Bermuda. The only animals which appear to thrive are +the goat and the duck; the cedar and a few calabash-trees are the +only wood, and, except the most common kinds of vegetables, such +as cabbages, onions, and sweet potatoes; I know of hardly another +thing brought to perfection, even in the gardens. The fruits +which a stranger may meet with are no doubt delicious, since +among them he will find the shaddock and the pine-apple; but for +these, as well as for almost all their other comforts and +luxuries, the Bermudians are indebted to the continent of America +or to the West Indies. Whether this be owing to the natural +sterility of the soil, or to the extreme indolence of the +inhabitants, I cannot pretend to decide; though I should be +inclined to suspect that both were, in some degree, to blame; but +its consequences are felt by all visitors, in a very sensible +manner, every article of living being here sold for thrice its +intrinsic value. That provisions should be dear in this country +cannot surprise, when it is considered that this small colony is +the general depot and place of resort for repairs and stores to a +large proportion of the British navy, scattered along the coast +of America; but, surely, if the natives were a little more +industrious, they might afford to sell their goods at a cheaper +rate, and at the same time secure an equal, if not a greater +profit. But their indolence is beyond all conception, and can be +attributed only to, what I believe is its real cause, the +facility with which they acquire fortunes, from men who are +necessitated to give whatever they demand for the most trifling +article. The poorest and meanest freeman upon the island never +dreams of applying his own hand, or even his own head, to the +cultivation of the ground; and being abundantly supplied with +negro slaves, they leave everything, even the care of providing +necessaries for themselves, to the industry of that ill-used +race. I may perhaps be considered as expressing myself with +too much severity towards the Bermudians, but, in truth, I repeat +only what I was told by some of themselves; nor did I, from my +own personal observation, discover any cause to question the +veracity of my informers. + +In the praise bestowed by Mr. Moore upon the beauty of these +regions, I do, however, most cordially join. There is something +bewitchingly pretty, for pretty is perhaps the most appropriate +epithet to be used, in every one of the many views which you may +obtain from different points. The low and elegant cedar, the +green short turf, the frequent recurrence of the white and +dazzling rock, the continual rise and fall of the numerous small +islands, but above all, the constant intermingling of land and +water, seem more like a drawing of fairy land than a reality. +There is nothing grand, nothing imposing, or calculated to excite +any feeling bordering upon the awful, throughout the whole; but +it is soft, gentle, and exquisitely pleasing. + +Having spent the day at St. George's, I returned on board to +sleep; and on the morrow removed, with my baggage, to a transport +then lying at anchor within the ferry, which was thenceforth to +be my head-quarters. Thither my friend Grey also removed, and as +our ship was well stored, and its commander civil and +accommodating, we had no reason to complain of any suffering +consequent upon our change of residence. + +It will be readily believed that a very small portion of our time +was now wasted on board ship; for economy's sake we usually slept +there, because at the inn the charge for beds, as well as for +everything else, was enormous; but all the hours of daylight were +devoted to rowing round the different islands, and climbing the +different eminences, from whence the most extensive prospects +were to be obtained. Among other curiosities, we were informed +of two caves in one of the little isles, distant about four or +five miles from the place where we lay. Being assured that they +were highly deserving of notice, we determined to visit them; and +setting off one evening for that purpose, we reached the spot +which had been pointed out to us a little before dark. We +fastened the boat to the stump of a tree, and were proceeding +towards the caves, when a fine manly voice, singing one of the +Irish melodies, attracted our attention. Being rather curious to +discover who, in this extramundane place, had learnt to sing with +so much taste, we followed the direction of the sound, till we +came upon a party sitting under the shade of a tent, and, like +ourselves, enjoying the cool of the evening; on perceiving us, +some of them came forward, and the satisfaction was mutual when +we recognised one another as old acquaintances. They urged us to +relinquish our design, and to partake of their good cheer, with +which, as the hour was late, we had small reluctance in +complying; and it was agreed, that instead of going on without +proper guides, and at so unseasonable a time, we should breakfast +together at the same spot in the morning, and proceed in a body +to examine the caverns. Here, therefore, we remained till the +moon had risen, when we returned to our boat, and sailed back to +the ship. + +Next morning everything was prepared for the expedition, but a +heavy squall coming on, prevented us from setting out as early as +we had intended; as soon, however, as this blew over, we took to +our boat, and reached the place of rendezvous in time to share +the remains of a good breakfast which our friends had prepared +for themselves and us. When our meal was finished, we supplied +ourselves with torches from some dry branches of the +calabash-tree, and, headed by a guide, moved towards the mouth of +the nearest and largest of the two caves. We descended into this +by a ladder of sixteen steps, and arrived upon a broad ledge of +rock, where we halted for a few minutes to light the torches, and +accustom our vision to the gloom; when, both of these ends being +attained, we advanced a few paces into the cave, and a sight of +the most indescribable sublimity burst upon us. The appearance +was that of a huge Gothic cathedral, having its roof supported +upon pillars of spar, moulded into the most regular shapes, and +fluted and carved after the most exact models of architecture. +The roof itself was indeed too lofty to be discerned, nor could +the eye penetrate to anything like an extremity, all beyond a +certain extent being wrapped in the most profound darkness; but +the flashes of light which at intervals streamed out, as the +glare of the torches fell upon pieces of spar as clear as +crystal, and the deep echo of our own voices as we spoke, +inspired us with a feeling of awe bordering upon superstition. +It is in such a situation as this, that the poverty of the +mightiest monument of human art becomes conspicuous. The most +magnificent churches and abbeys, with their sculptured pillars +and vaulted ceilings, were thought of as mean in comparison of +what was now before us; indeed, I for one could not help +imagining that these very churches and abbeys had been built in +humble imitation of this, which looked like a temple reared by +some beings more powerful than men. It seemed a shrine worthy of +the genii of old, while yet they were in the zenith of their +glory, ere they had been driven from their thrones and oracles of +darkness by the light of Christianity. + +As we moved onward we found the sides of the cave gradually +narrow upon us, and the roof become lower and lower. There was, +however, a continuance of the same fane-like appearance to the +last, though growing more and more contracted; till, finally, we +were compelled to advance one by one, and to stoop in order to +prevent our heads from coming into contact with the rock. We had +proceeded as far as it was possible to proceed with any degree of +comfort, and were informed by the guide that we were upwards of +three hundred yards from the entrance, when we found it expedient +to wheel about, and to return to the open air. But the effect of +so sudden a change from darkness to light was exceedingly +disagreeable; insomuch that we hastened into the smaller cave, as +well for the purpose of deferring the moment of suffering as to +continue our search after the sublime. + +The entrance to this cavern is extremely dangerous, and not to be +ventured upon without either a trusty guide or a thorough +knowledge of the ground. After descending a ladder, not quite so +deep as that which leads into the larger cave, we arrived at the +brink of a fearful chasm, across which a flat stone, about two +feet in width, was laid, connecting the edges by a bridge four or +five feet in length. To what depth the chasm may reach, the +guide could not inform us; but that it is considerable we +discovered by dropping a large stone, which we could hear for +some time as it dashed against the projecting edges of the rock, +and at length splashed with a tremendous echo into water. The +man maintained that the sea beat under the foundation of the +island as far as the spot where we now stood, and his story was +rendered at least probable by the number of pools of salt water +which we met with in the interior of the cave. + +After having visited the larger cavern, this certainly appeared +to disadvantage; though in truth it is in its dimensions only +that the one can be pronounced inferior to the other. The spar +is equally clear and proportionably as abundant in both: the +pillars are quite as regularly formed, and the lesser has an +advantage over its rival in two or three broken columns, which +give to it the semblance of a temple in ruins. There is also in +this cave a strange propinquity of salt and fresh water pools, +the situation of two of which struck me as peculiarly curious. +They were divided from each other by a piece of rock not much +thicker than a man's hand; and yet the water from the one tasted +as if it had been taken from the German Ocean, whilst that from +the other was as fresh and pleasant as possible. + +We had by this time fully gratified our curiosity, and once more +ascended to the world of sunshine, the splendour of which was at +first almost insupportable. By degrees, however, our eyes became +accustomed to the change and recovered their original tone, when +we separated, each party returning to its respective ship in high +good humour with the day's employment. + +But to dine quietly on board was no longer endurable. A tent was +accordingly carried on shore, and having sought out the most +shady and agreeable nook within a moderate distance of the +vessel, our dinner was brought thither, and we spent the evening, +as we had done the morning, among the works of nature. Here we +remained till a late hour, talking over the adventures of the +day, and occasionally attempting a blind peep into futurity, till +our friend the moon having risen, we again pulled on board by her +light, and lay down to dream of sparry domes and enchanted +temples. + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +AMERICA + +SOME apology is due to the reader, whose attention has been thus +long withdrawn from other and more important matters, to follow +the adventures of an humble individual like myself. The fault, +however, of which I have been guilty may be at once repaired, +when I inform him that on our arrival at Bermuda we found Sir +Alexander Cochrane, in the Tonnant, of eighty guns, waiting to +receive us, and to take the command of the whole fleet. The +secret of our destination likewise, which up to that moment had +been kept, transpired almost as soon as we cast anchor off the +island; and it was publicly rumoured that our next point of +debarkation would be somewhere on the shores of the Bay of +Chesapeake. Nor are these the only interesting public +occurrences of which no notice has as yet been taken. On the 4th +of June our little army was reinforced by the arrival of the 21st +Fusiliers, a fine battalion, mustering nine hundred bayonets, +under the command of Colonel Patterson. On the evening of the +29th a squadron of four frigates and several transports appeared +in the offing, which by mid-day on the day following were all at +anchor in the roads. They proved to be from the Mediterranean, +having the 21st, 29th, and 62nd Regiments on board, of which the +two latter were proceeding to join Sir George Prevost's army in +Canada, whilst the former attached itself to that under the +command of General Ross. By this very acceptable reinforcement, +our numbers were increased to upwards of three thousand effective +men, and a greater confidence in themselves, as well as a better +grounded hope of success in whatever they might undertake, was at +the same time given to the troops. + +Having already dwelt sufficiently upon my own personal Adventures +at Bermuda, I shall not waste time by a particular detail of the +various preparations which during this interval were making +throughout the fleet. Stores of provisions, fresh water, +ammunition, clothing, &c., were provided, and magazines for the +future supply of the expedition established; when, on the 3rd +of August, all things being complete, the ships once more got +under weigh, and stood towards America. + +THE CHESAPEAKE + +During the whole of this day the wind was light and unsteady, +consequently little progress was made, nor did the white rocks of +Bermuda disappear till darkness concealed them; but towards +morning a fresher and more favourable breeze springing up, the +rest of the voyage was performed in reasonable time, and without +the occurrence of any incident worthy of notice. The heat, +indeed, became more and more oppressive every day, and the +irksomeness of renewed confinement was more sensibly experienced +from the long holiday which we had enjoyed on shore; but, in +other respects, everything returned to its former state, till +towards evening on the 14th, when a signal was made by the +Admiral that land was in sight. As yet, however, there was no +appearance of it from the deck of our transport, nor for a full +half-hour could our anxious gaze be rewarded by the slightest +trace of what it sought; but at the end of that time the low +sandy point of Cape Charles began to show itself, and we rejoiced +in the prospect of a speedy release from the ennui of a seafaring +life. + +The coast of America, at least in this quarter, is universally +low and uninteresting; insomuch, that for some time before the +land itself can be discerned, forests of pines appear to rise, as +it were, out of the water. It is also dangerous from the +numerous shoals and sandbanks which run out in many places to a +considerable extent into the sea, and which are so formidable +that no master of a vessel, unless he chance to be particularly +well acquainted with the navigation, will venture to approach +after dark. The fleet was accordingly anchored within a few +miles of the shore, but no sooner had the day begun to break than +the sails were again hoisted, and the ships, steering under the +influence of a leading wind, between the Capes Charles and Henry, +stood in gallant style up the Chesapeake. + +This noble bay is far too wide, and the land on each side too +flat, to permit any but an indistinct glimpse of the shore from +the deck of a vessel which keeps well towards the middle. On the +present occasion we could distinguish nothing, on either hand, +except the tops of trees, with occasionally a windmill or a +lighthouse; but the view of our own fleet was in truth so +magnificent as to prevent any murmuring on that account. +Immediately on entering, we were joined by Admiral Cockburn with +three line-of-battle ships, several frigates, and a few sloops of +war and gun-brigs, by which means the squadron could now muster +above twenty vessels entitled to display the pendant, besides an +equal if not a greater number of victuallers and transports. Nor +were we strengthened by this addition in the naval part of the +expedition alone. On board these ships was embarked a powerful +reinforcement for the army, consisting of a battalion of seven +hundred marines, a hundred negroes lately armed and disciplined, +and a division of marine artillery, so that we could now +calculate on landing a corps of at least four thousand men. The +spectacle was therefore as agreeable and imposing as might be; +because we could not help remembering that this magnificent fleet +was sailing in an enemy's bay, and that it was filled with troops +for the invasion of that enemy's country. Thus, like a snowball, +we had gathered as we went on, and from having set out a mere +handful of soldiers, were now become an army, formidable as well +from its numbers as its discipline. + +The shoals and sandbanks which abound on the outside of the bay, +continue to encumber the navigation after it is entered, and the +fleet was in consequence compelled to anchor every night. This +proceeding unavoidably occasioned much delay. The first day's +sail carried us only to the mouth of the James river, and the +second to the mouth of the Potomac; but, on both occasions, we +brought up at too great a distance from the beach to permit +perfect or distinct view of either of these rivers. Opposite to +the latter, indeed, we remained for a night and a considerable +part of the following day, and the sky being remarkably clear, we +saw something more of it than we had been able to see of the +other river. It appeared to be a fine piece of water making its +way through the centre of huge forests, and, though the current +is in reality strong, flowing on without any apparent motion. +But it would have been impossible to trace its course, even had +we been nearer to the shore, above a few miles, on account of its +numerous windings, the first of which, overshadowed as it is with +wood, shuts it out from further observation. By continuing here +so long, we had begun to conjecture that a landing somewhere on +the banks of this river was in contemplation. In this, however, +we were deceived, for about one o'clock the fleet was again +under sail, and moving towards the Patuxent, a river which +empties itself into the bay, several miles above the Potomac. + +THE PATUXENT. + +It was singular enough, that the ships had scarcely begun to lift +their anchors, when the sky, which had hitherto continued clear +and serene, became suddenly darkened and overcast with heavy +clouds: and the water, which before had been as smooth and bright +as a mirror, began to rise in black waves tipped with foam, +though there was not a breath of air to fill the +sails. Hurricanes are, I believe, not unfrequent in this part of +the world, and it was expected that these changes in the sea and +sky foreboded the arrival of one; but they passed by without +producing any violent results, and when we brought up, which was +done in the evening, the clouds had dispersed, and the water was +again like a glassy lake. + +The 18th of August had now arrived, and as yet we had advanced no +farther than to the mouth of the Patuxent. There we lay, as we +had done the day before, anxiously expecting a breeze; till about +noon, the wind beginning to blow fair, the fleet entered the +river and made its way slowly and majestically against the +stream. The voyage soon became picturesque and interesting in +the highest degree. Fields of Indian corn, with meadows of the +most luxuriant pasture, stretched along the margin of the stream +on either hand; whilst the neat wooden houses of the settlers, +all of them painted white, and surrounded with orchards and +gardens, presented a striking contrast to the boundless forests +which formed a background to the scene. Of the prodigious extent +and gloomy appearance of these forests, it is impossible for any +language to convey an adequate conception. There is nothing, at +least nothing which I have seen, in the Old World, at all +resembling or to be compared with them; and hemming in, as they +do, on every side, the tiny spots of cultivation, they certainly +convey no very enlarged idea of the power of human industry. The +cleared fields on the banks of the Patuxent, for example, could +in no direction measure above half a mile across,--in many places +their breadth fell short of that, from the river to the woods; +and then all was one vast forest, through which no eye could +penetrate, nor any traveller venture to seek his way. We were, +as may be imagined, greatly taken by scenery so novel; and we +continued to gaze upon it with the liveliest interest, till our +attention was drawn away to other and more important matters. + +ST. BENEDICT'S. + +We had not proceeded many miles from the river's mouth when a +telegraph from the Admiral gave orders for the troops to be in +readiness to land at a moment's notice. Everything was forthwith +put in a state of forwardness; provisions for three days, that is +to say, three pounds of pork, with two pounds and a half of +biscuit, were cooked and given to the men; the cartouch-boxes +were supplied with fresh ammunition, and the arms and +accoutrements handed out. The fleet, however, continued to move +on, without showing any inclination to bring to; till at length, +having ascended to the distance of ten leagues from the bay, the +ships of the line began to take the ground; and in a little while +after, even the frigates could proceed no farther. But by this +time the sun had set, and darkness was coming on; consequently, +there was no possibility, for that day, of getting the troops on +shore without much confusion, if not danger. All therefore +remained quiet for the night, with this exception, that the +soldiers were removed from the large ships into such as drew +least water; which running up as high as prudence would permit, +under convoy of the gun-brigs and sloops of war, there cast +anchor. + +As soon as the dawn began to appear, on the morning of the 19th, +there was a general stir throughout the fleet. A gun-brig had +already taken her station within a hundred and fifty yards of a +village called St. Benedict's, on the left bank of the river, +where it was determined that the disembarkation should be +effected. Her broadside was turned towards the shore, and her +loaded with grape and round shot, were pointed at the beach, to +cover the landing of the boats; and being moored and aft with +spring-cables, she was altogether as manageable as if she had +been under sail. The rest of the ships were several miles lower +down the stream, some of them being aground the distance of four +leagues from this point; but the boats were quickly hoisted out +from every one of them, and the river as covered in a trice with +a well-manned and warlike flotilla. The disembarkation was +conducted with the greatest regularity and dispatch. Though the +stream ran strong against them, and some of them were obliged to +row fourteen or fifteen miles backwards and forwards, so +strenuously did the sailors exert themselves, that by three +o'clock in the afternoon the whole army was landed, and occupied +a strong position about two miles above the village. + +From what I have stated respecting the gun-brig, it will be seen +that all things were in readiness to meet and repel opposition, +should such be offered. Her broadside being pointed directly +towards the village, whilst it hindered the enemy from bringing +down troops in that direction, gave to our people an opportunity +of forming, and being able to meet, in good order, whatever force +might be posted to check their advance up the country. Had a few +pieces of artillery been mounted, indeed, upon the high ground, +afterwards taken possession of by us, some execution might have +been done upon the boats as they drew towards the beach; but even +that would have been trifling, because, unless they had had +leisure to heat their shot, no artillery, in the open country +could have long stood before the fire of even a gun-brig, armed +as this was for the occasion with long thirty-two pounders. Each +boat-load of soldiers, likewise, drew up the moment they stepped +on shore, forming line without any regard to companies or +battalions; whilst parties were instantly dispatched to +reconnoitre, and to take possession of every house, as well as to +line every hedge, in front of the shore where their comrades were +arriving. But these preparations, though no more than common +prudence required, were unnecessary; since there was not only no +opposition to the landing, but, apparently, no enemy within many +miles of the place. + +So much time was unavoidably expended in establishing the +different regiments on the ground allotted to them, in bringing +up the hospital and commissariat stores, and arranging the +materiel, that when all things were ready, the day appeared too +far spent to permit an advance into a country, of the nature and +military situation of which we were of course ignorant. The +afternoon was accordingly devoted to a proper distribution of the +force; which was divided into three brigades, in the following +order:-- + +The first, or light brigade, consisted of the 85th, the light +infantry companies of the 4th, 21st, and 44th regiments, with the +party of disciplined negroes, and a company of marines, amounting +in all to about eleven hundred men; to the command of which +Colonel Thornton, of the 85th regiment, was appointed. + +The second brigade, composed of the 4th and 44th regiments, which +mustered together fourteen hundred and sixty bayonets, was +intrusted to the care of Colonel Brooke, of the 44th; and the +third, made up of the 21st, and the battalion of marines, and +equalling in number the second brigade, was commanded by Colonel +Patterson, of the 21st. The whole of the infantry may, +therefore, be estimated at four thousand and twenty men. Besides +these, there were landed about a hundred artillery-men, and an +equal number of drivers; but for want of horses to drag them, no +more than one six-pounder and two small three-pounder guns were +brought on shore. Except those belonging to the General and +staff-officers, there was not a single horse in the whole army. +To have taken on shore a large park of artillery would have been, +under such circumstances, absolute folly, indeed, the pieces +which were actually landed, proved in the end of very little +service, and were drawn by seamen sent from the different ships +for the purpose. The sailors, thus employed, may be rated at a +hundred, and those occupied in carrying stores, ammunition, and +other necessaries, at a hundred more; and thus, by adding these, +together with fifty sappers and miners, to the above amount, the +whole number of men landed at St. Benedict's may be computed at +four thousand five hundred. + +This little army was posted upon a height which rises at the +distance of two miles from the river. In front was a valley, +cultivated for some way, and intersected with orchards; at the +further extremity of which the advanced piquets took their +ground; pushing forward a chain of sentinels to the very skirts +of the forest. The right of the position was protected by a +farm-house with its enclosure and outbuildings, and the left +rested upon the edge of the hill, or rather mound, which there +abruptly ended. On the brow of the hill, and about the centre of +the line were placed the cannon, ready loaded, and having lighted +fusees beside them; whilst the infantry bivouacked immediately +under the ridge, or rather upon the slope of the hill which +looked towards the shipping, in order to prevent their +disposition from being seen by the enemy; should they come down +to attack. But as we were now in a country where we could not +calculate upon being safe in rear, any more than in front, the +chain of piquets was carried round both flanks, and so arranged, +that no attempt could be made to get between the army and the +fleet, without due notice, and time given to oppose and prevent +it. Everything, in short, was arranged with the utmost skill, +and every chance of surprise provided against; but the night +passed in quiet, nor was an opportunity afforded of evincing the +utility of the very soldier-like dispositions which had been +made. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +NOTTINGHAM + +NEXT morning the troops, as is customary during a state of active +warfare, were under arms an hour before daylight, and remained in +position till after the sun had risen. It was then confidently +expected that the column would be put in motion, though in what +direction it was to proceed, or what was the object of the +descent, none but the General himself appeared to know. A +rumour, indeed, prevailed, that a flotilla of gun-boats upon the +Patuxent, commanded by the American Commodore Barney, was the +point of attack; and that while the land force advanced up the +river to prevent their retreat, armed boats from the fleet were +to engage them in front. That such was in reality the primary +object of the landing, I have every reason to believe, though +circumstances afterwards occurred to bring about a change in the +plan of operations. Into these, however, I shall not now enter, +because they are in no way, connected with the present stage of +my narrative, but shall merely observe, that in their +expectations of an immediate advance the troops were +disappointed. Whether it was that the arrangements had not been +completed, or that intelligence respecting the state of the +country and the enemy's preparations was wanting, I do not know; +but the regiments returned to the ground which they had occupied +during the night, and everything resumed the same face which it +had worn on the evening before. + +In this state affairs continued till four o'clock in the +afternoon, when the General suddenly made his appearance in the +camp, the bugles sounded, and the regiments formed in order for +marching. Nor did many minutes elapse before the word was given, +and the army began to move, taking the direction of Nottingham, a +town situated on the river, where it was understood that the +flotilla lay at anchor. The march was conducted with the same +caution and good order that had marked the choice of ground for +encamping and the disposition of the troops in position. The +advanced-guard, consisting of three companies of infantry, led +the way. These, however, were preceded by a section of twenty +men, moving before them at the distance of a hundred yards; and +even these twenty were but the followers of two files, sent +forward to prevent surprise, and to give warning of the approach +of the enemy. Parallel with the head of the three companies +marched the flank patrols; parties of forty or fifty men, which, +extending in files from each side of the road, swept the woods +and fields to the distance of nearly half a mile. After the +advanced guard, leaving an interval of a hundred or a hundred and +fifty yards, came the light brigade; which, as well as the +advance, sent out flankers to secure itself against ambuscades. +Next to it, again, marched the second brigade, moving steadily +on, and leaving the skirmishing and reconnoitring to those +in front; then came the artillery, consisting, as I have already +stated, of one six and two three-pounder guns, drawn by seamen; +and last of all came the third brigade, leaving a detachment at +the same distance from the rear of the column, as the advanced +guard was from its front. + +In moving through an enemy's country, the journeys of an army +will, except under particular circumstances, be regulated by the +nature of the ground over which it passes: thus, though eight, +ten, or even twelve miles may be considered as a short day's +march, yet if at the end of that space an advantageous position +occur (that is, a piece of ground well defended by natural or +accidental barriers, and at the same time calculated for the +operations of that species of force of which the army may be +composed), it would be the height of imprudence to push forward, +merely because a greater extent of country might be traversed +without fatiguing the troops. On the other hand, should an army +have proceeded eighteen, twenty, or even twenty-five miles, +without the occurrence of any such position, nothing except the +prospect of losing a large proportion of his men from weariness +ought to induce a general to stop, until he has reached some spot +at least more tenable than the rest. Our march to-day was, upon +this principle, extremely short, the troops halting when they had +arrived at a rising ground distant not more than six miles from +the point whence they set out; and having stationed the piquets, +planted the sentinels, and made such other arrangements as the +case required, fires were lighted, and the men were suffered to +lie down. + +It may seem strange, but it is nevertheless true, that during +this short march of six miles a greater number of soldiers +dropped out of the ranks, and fell behind from fatigue, than I +recollect to have seen in any march in the Peninsula of thrice +its duration. The fact is that the men, from having been so long +cooped up in ships, and unused to carry their baggage and arms, +were become relaxed and enervated to a degree altogether +unnatural; and this, added to the extreme sultriness of the day, +which exceeded anything we had yet experienced, quite +overpowered them. The load which they carried, likewise, was far +from trifling, since, independent of their arms and sixty rounds +of ball-cartridge, each man bore upon his back a knapsack, +containing shirts, shoes, stockings, &c., a blanket, a haversack, +with provisions for three days, and a canteen or wooden keg +filled with water. Under these circumstances, the occurrence of +the position was extremely fortunate, since not only would the +speedy failure of light have compelled a halt, whether the ground +chanced to be favourable or the reverse, but even before darkness +had come on scarcely two-thirds of the soldiers would have been +found in their places. + +The ground upon which we bivouacked, though not remarkable for +its strength, was precisely such as might tempt a General to +halt, who found his men weary and in danger of being +benighted. It was a gentle eminence, fronted by an open and +cultivated country, and crowned with two or three houses, having +barns and walled gardens attached to them. Neither flank could be +said to rest upon any point peculiarly well defended, but they +were not exposed; because, by extending or condensing the line, +almost any one of these houses might be converted into a +protecting redoubt. The outposts, again, were so far arranged +differently from those of yesterday, that, instead of covering +only the front and the two extremities, they extended completely +round the encampment, enclosing the entire army within a +connected chain of sentinels; and precluding the possibility of +even a single individual making his way within the lines +unperceived. + +These precautions were, however, like those of the preceding day, +unnecessary; no enemy making his appearance, even to reconnoitre: +and yet it cannot be said that the night was passed in +uninterrupted quiet, for the troops had scarcely lain down when +they were disturbed by a tremendous storm of thunder and +lightning, accompanied by a heavy fall of rain. The effect of +the lightning, as it glanced for a moment upon the bivouac, and +displayed the firelocks piled in regular order, and the men +stretched like so many corpses beside them, was extremely fine. +The effect of the rain, however, was not so agreeable, for, being +perfectly destitute of shelter, we were speedily wet to the skin; +and the remainder of our resting-time was rendered thereby the +reverse of comfortable. But the feeling of fretfulness, natural on +such an occasion, lasted no longer than till the day dawned, and +the line of march was again formed; when their former good-humour +returning, and seasoned in some degree by the fatigues of +yesterday, the troops moved on in excellent order and in the +highest spirits. + +The route to-day was different, in many respects, from that of +yesterday. In the first place, we had now got beyond the stretch +of cultivation, and were proceeding through forests of +immeasurable extent; this, of itself, gave a very different +aspect to all around, because hitherto we had seen houses and +fields of corn on each side of the road, and now we could +discover nothing but wild savannahs, apparently untenanted by a +single human being. In the next place, we learnt from some of +the country people, who had been impressed as guides into our +service, that numerous detached bodies of riflemen lay in ambush +among the thickets; and the very expectation of having something +to do, created a degree of excitement which, till now, we had not +experienced. In consequence of that information, the flank +patrols were strengthened and commanded to extend to a greater +distance; the advanced guard marched at a greater interval from +the head of the column, and the whole army moved forward with +more caution and circumspection than had hitherto been used. + +In the course of this day's march a little adventure occurred to +myself, which, in the illiberality of my heart, I could not but +regard as strikingly characteristic of the character of the +people to whom we were now opposed, and which, as at the time it +had something in it truly comical, I cannot resist the +inclination of repeating, though aware that its title to drollery +must in a great measure be lost in the relation. Having been +informed that in a certain part of the forest a company of +riflemen had passed the night, I took with me a party of +soldiers, and proceeded in the direction pointed out, with the +hope of surprising them. On reaching the place, I found that +they had retired, but I thought I could perceive something like +the glitter of arms a little farther towards the middle of the +wood. Sending several files of soldiers in different directions, +I contrived to surround the spot, and then moving forward, I +beheld two men dressed in black coats, and armed with bright +firelocks and bayonets, sitting under a tree; as soon as they +observed me, they started up and took to their heels, but being +hemmed in on all sides, they quickly perceived that to escape was +impossible, and accordingly stood still. I hastened towards +them, and having arrived within a few paces of where they stood, +I heard the one say to the other, with a look of the most perfect +simplicity, "Stop, John, till the gentlemen pass." There was +something so ludicrous in this speech, and in the cast of +countenance which accompanied it, that I could not help laughing +aloud; nor was my mirth diminished by their attempts to persuade +me that they were quiet country people, come out for no other +purpose than to shoot squirrels. When I desired to know whether +they carried bayonets to charge the squirrels, as well as muskets +to shoot them, they were rather at a loss for a reply; but they +grumbled exceedingly when they found themselves prisoners, and +conducted as such to the column. + +But to return to the principal narrative. The army had now +advanced within a few miles of Nottingham, and the men were +beginning to look forward with some anxiety to a halt; whilst as +yet nothing beyond the capture of a few stragglers had occurred +to confirm the rumours which, in the morning, and during the +whole of the march, had occasioned so much more circumspection +than appeared to be requisite. The day was likewise far spent, +and, as was to be expected, the ranks were beginning to be less +carefully preserved, when a smart firing in the wood upon the +right of the road gave new life and energy to the soldiers. It +was now confidently expected that the enemy would make a stand. +The column closed its order, ready to wheel into line in a +moment, and everything was on the qui vive: but it proved to be +no more than a rencounter between a party of American riflemen +and the flank patrol. After firing a few shots, the enemy gave +way, and our main body, which had continued to move on during the +skirmish, came in without the slightest opposition to the town of +Nottingham. + +We found this place (a town or large village, capable of +containing from a thousand to fifteen hundred inhabitants) +completely deserted. Not an individual was to be seen in the +streets, or remained in the houses; whilst the appearance of the +furniture, &c., in some places the very bread left in the ovens, +showed that it had been evacuated in great haste, and immediately +before our arrival. The town itself stands upon the banks of the +Patuxent, and consists of four short streets, two running +parallel with the river, and two others crossing them at right +angles, The houses are not such as indicate the existence of much +wealth or grandeur among the owners, being in general built of +wood, and little superior to cottages; but around the village are +others of a far better description, which convey the idea of good +substantial farm-houses, a species of mansion very common in the +United States. For several miles in every direction the country +was in a high state of cultivation; though, instead of the maize +and wheat which we had hitherto seen, the fields were covered +with an abundant and luxuriant crop of tobacco. This plant +seems, indeed, to be at all times the staple commodity of that +district; for, besides what was growing and unripe, we found +numerous barns filled with the remains of last year's crop; the +whole of which was, of course, seized in the name of His Majesty +King George the Third. But in the main object of our pursuit we +were disappointed. The flotilla, which had been stationed +opposite to Nottingham, retired, on our approach, higher up the +stream; and we were consequently in the situation of a huntsman +who sees his hounds at fault, and has every reason to apprehend +that his game will escape. + +MARLBOROUGH + +In this posture the army continued during the night, having its +right defended by the river, and its left extending considerably +beyond the town, and secured, as usual, by a connected chain of +outposts; nor was it put in motion, as had been done the day +before, as soon as there was sufficient light to distinguish +objects. There seemed, indeed, to be something like hesitation +as to the course to be pursued,--whether to follow the gun-boats, +or to return to the shipping; but, at last, the former proceeding +was resolved upon, and the column set forward about eight +o'clock, in the direction of Marlborough, another village, about +ten miles beyond Nottingham. The road by which we travelled, as +well to-day as during the whole of the excursion, was +remarkably good; in some places rather heavy, from being cut +through a sandy soil, but in general hard, dusty, and, to use an +expressive phrase, having a sound bottom. Running, as it did for +the most part, through the heart of thick forests, it was also +well sheltered from the rays of the sun; a circumstance which, in +a climate like this, is of no slight importance. To-day, our +whole journey was of this description, nor did we reach a single +cultivated spot till we approached the vicinity of Marlborough; +when we found ourselves in a country not more fertile than +beautiful. The ground, which had been hitherto perfectly flat, +was now broken into the most graceful swells, generally cleared +of wood to within a short space of the summits, and then crowned +with hoar and venerable forests. The village itself lies in a +valley formed by two green hills; the distance from the base of +one hill to the base of the other may be about two miles, the +whole of which was laid out in fields of corn, hay, and tobacco; +whilst the slopes themselves were covered with sheep, for whose +support they furnished ample means. But Marlborough is not, like +an English village, compact, and consisting of one or two lanes +the houses are scattered over the plain, and along the sides of +the hills, at considerable intervals from one another, and are +all surrounded by orchards and gardens, abounding in peaches and +other fruits of the most delicious flavour. To add to the beauty +of the place, a small rivulet makes its way through the bottom, +and winding round the foot of one of these ridges, falls into the +Patuxent, which flows at its back. + +During our progress to-day the same caution was observed which +had been practised yesterday. Nor was it altogether unnecessary, +several bodies of the enemy's horse occasionally showing +themselves, and what appeared to be the rear-guard of a column +of infantry evacuating Marlborough, as our advance entered. + +MARCH TO WASHINGTON. + +There was, however, little or no skirmishing, and we were allowed +to remain in the village all night without molestation. But if we +were not harassed, we were at least startled on the march by +several heavy explosions. The cause of these we were at first +unable to discover; but we soon learnt that they were occasioned +by the blowing up of the very squadron of which we were in +pursuit, and which Commodore Barney, perceiving the impossibility +of preserving, prudently destroyed, in order to prevent its +falling into our hands. + +In Marlborough we remained not only during the night, but till +past noon on the following day. The hesitation which had caused +the loss of a few hours at Nottingham again interfered, and +produced a delay which might have been attended with serious +consequences. At length, however, orders were given to form, and +we quitted Marlborough about two in the afternoon, taking the +road to Washington. During this day's march there was more +skirmishing than had yet occurred. We had scarcely got above +three miles from the village, when the advanced guard fell in +with a party of riflemen, who maintained a sharp contest before +they gave way. The column, however, continued to move on without +molestation, till arriving at a point where two roads meet, the +one leading to Washington, the other to Alexandria, a strong body +of troops, with some artillery, were observed upon the slope of a +height opposite. The capture of Washington was now the avowed +object of our invasion; but the General, like an experienced +officer, was desirous of keeping his enemy in the dark as to his +plan of operations. Whilst the advanced guard, therefore, +reinforced by two additional companies, marched directly forward +to dislodge the party from the heights, the rest of the army +wheeled to the left, taking the road which leads, not to +Washington, but to Alexandria. These movements were not lost +upon the enemy, who, observing by the dust in what direction the +main body had filed off, immediately began to retreat, without +waiting for the approach of the detachment sent against ahem. As +they ascended the hill, however, they made a show of halting and +forming a line. Our men moved steadily on in column, covered by +one company in extended order along the front; but the enemy, +having merely thrown a few round shot with great precision among +the skirmishers, broke once again into marching order, and were +quickly hid by the rising ground. As soon as they had +disappeared, the advance halted; and having remained for about an +hour on a little hill to watch their motions, turned to the left, +and followed the rest of the army, which they found +advantageously posted at a place called Woodyard. + + +CHAPTER IX. + + +I HAD almost forgotten to state that, from the first moment of +our landing, the want of cavalry, so useful in obtaining +information and reconnoitring the open country, was very sensibly +felt. To remedy this evil, as far as it could by such means be +remedied, orders had been issued to catch and bring in all the +horses that were found in the fields or stables of any houses +along the road; and these orders being punctually obeyed, there +were now fifty or sixty in the camp. Upon these some of the +artillery-drivers were mounted, and the command of the troop +being given to an officer of experience, it was found of great +service during the remainder of the march. + +The advanced guard having joined the main body, the whole army, +with the exception of a party which had been sent to the rear to +bring up a convoy of provisions, was now bivouacked upon a rising +ground, well defended by hedge-rows and thickets. The night, +however, was not spent in as much quietness as usual. It was +late before the troops got to their ground, consequently the +piquets, for want of light, could not be posted in their +customary good order, neither had there been time to examine the +country in the neighbourhood of the position. The outposts were, +therefore, kept in a state of constant anxiety by the frequent +appearance of small parties of the enemy, who hovered about, +probably with the design of cutting off stragglers, or perhaps of +surprising, if they could, some of the piquets themselves. But +whatever their intentions might be, the vigilance of the sentries +contrived to render them abortive; nor did anything occur during +the night productive of serious alarm; and the following day, +being joined by the convoy which came up in safety, the column +was again in motion, hastening across the country into the +highroad, which had been deserted for no other purpose than to +mislead the Americans. + +Having started on the 24th at an early hour, our march was for +some time both cool and agreeable. The road--if road it could be +called--wound for the first five miles through the heart of an +immense forest, and being, in every sense of the word, a by-path, +was completely overshadowed by projecting branches of trees, so +closely interwoven, as to prevent a single sunbeam from making +its way, even at noon, within the arch. We continued to move on, +therefore, long after the sun had risen, without being sensible +that there was not a cloud in the sky to screen us from his +influence; whilst a heavy moisture continually emitted from the +grass and weeds on both sides of us, produced a coolness which, +had it been less confined, would have proved extremely +pleasant. So far, then, we proceeded without experiencing any +other inconvenience than what was produced by the damp and fetid +atmosphere which we breathed; but no sooner had we begun to +emerge from the woods and to enter the open country, than an +overpowering change was perceived. The sun, from which we had +been hitherto defended, now beat upon us in full force; and the +dust rising in thick masses from under our feet, without a breath +of air to disperse it, flew directly into our faces, occasioning +the greatest inconvenience both to the eyes and respiration. I +have stated this at length, because I do not recollect a period +of my military life during which I suffered more severely from +heat and fatigue; and as a journey of a few miles, under such +circumstances, tells more than one of thrice the distance in a +cool day and along a firm wintry road, it is not surprising that +before many hours had elapsed numbers of men began to fall behind +from absolute inability to keep up. + +Yet, in spite of all this, there was that in to-day's march which +rendered it infinitely more interesting than any we bad performed +since the landing. We had learnt, from various quarters, that +the enemy was concentrating his forces for the purpose of +hazarding a battle in defence of his capital. The truth of these +rumours we had no cause to doubt, confirmed as they were by what +we had ourselves witnessed only the evening before; indeed the +aspect of various fields on each side of the high road (which we +had now regained), where smoking ashes, bundles of straw, and +remnants of broken victuals were scattered about, indicated that +considerable bodies of troops had passed the night in this +neighbourhood. The appearance of the road itself, likewise, +imprinted as it was with fresh marks of many feet and hoofs, +proved that these troops could be no great way before us; whilst +our very proximity to Washington, being now distant from it not +more than ten or twelve miles, all tended to assure us that we +should at least see an American army before dark. + +It was now that we experienced the great usefulness of our badly +mounted troopers, or as they were called by the private soldiers, +our Cossacks. The country, from being extremely close, had +become open on every side to a considerable extent, although +thick groves, instead of hedges, frequently separated one field +from another. This was exactly the ground on which cavalry could +act with advantage; because they might lie in ambush behind these +groves, totally unperceived, and when an opportunity offered, +charge the column, before it had time to prepare for their +reception. There were one or two places, indeed, where such +events were confidently anticipated; whole rows of paling having +been pulled up from the side of the road, and open spaces left, +through which several squadrons of horse might gallop; and the +consequence was that every man held his breath in expectation, +and prepared himself to form square in a moment. It was here +that the mounted drivers became peculiarly useful. They were +divided into small parties of six or eight, and sent out in +different directions to reconnoitre, two of them generally taking +post at every suspicious corner, that one might give notice to +the column, whilst the other watched the motions of an enemy. + +It so happened that these precautions were unnecessary, for +whatever might be the strength of the Americans in cavalry, their +General did not think fit to employ it in harassing our +march. But the very knowledge that every danger was provided +against, and that they could not be attacked without having time +to make ready, gave to the soldiers a degree of steady confidence +which they would otherwise have wanted; and the want of which, +had the case been different, might have been productive of +disorder at a moment when good order was of vital importance. + +BLADENSBURG. + +We had now proceeded about nine miles, during the last four of +which the sun's rays had beat continually upon us, and we had +inhaled almost as great a quantity of dust as of air. Numbers of +men had already fallen to the rear, and many more could with +difficulty keep up; consequently, if we pushed on much farther +without resting, the chances were that at least one half of the +army would be left behind. To prevent this from happening, and +to give time for the stragglers to overtake the column, a halt +was determined upon, and being led forward to a spot of ground +well wooded, and watered by a stream which crossed the road, the +troops were ordered to refresh themselves. Perhaps no halt ever +arrived more seasonably than this, or bid fair to be productive +of more beneficial effects; yet so oppressive was the heat, that +we had not resumed our march above an hour, when the banks by the +way side were again covered with stragglers; some of the finest +and stoutest men in the army being literally unable to go on. + +The hour of noon was approaching, when a heavy cloud of dust, +apparently not more than two or three miles distant, attracted +our attention. From whence it originated there was little +difficulty in guessing, nor did many minutes expire before +surmise was changed into certainty: for on turning a sudden angle +in the road, and passing a small plantation, which obstructed the +vision towards the left, the British and American armies became +visible to one another. The position occupied by the latter was +one of great strength and commanding attitude. They were drawn +up in three lines upon the brow of a hill, having their front and +left flank covered by a branch of the Potomac, and their right +resting upon a thick wood and a deep ravine. This river, which +may be about the breadth of the Isis at Oxford, flowed between +the heights occupied by the American forces and the little town +of Bladensburg. Across it was thrown a narrow bridge, extending +from the chief street in that town to the continuation of the +road, which passed through the very centre of their position; and +its right bank (the bank above which they were drawn up) was +covered with a narrow stripe of willows and larch trees, whilst +the left was altogether bare, low, and exposed. Such was the +general aspect of their position as at the first glance it +presented itself; of which I must endeavour to give a more +detailed account, that my description of the battle may be in +some degree intelligible. + +I have said that the right bank of the Potomac was covered with a +narrow stripe of willow and larch trees. Here the Americans had +stationed strong bodies of riflemen, who, in skirmishing order, +covered the whole front of their army. Behind this plantation, +again, the fields were open and clear, intersected, at certain +distances, by rows of high and strong palings. About the middle +of the ascent, and in the rear of one of these rows, stood the +first line, composed entirely of infantry; at a proper interval +from this, and in a similar situation, stood the second line; +while the third, or reserve, was posted within the skirts of a +wood, which crowned the heights. The artillery, again, of which +they had twenty pieces in the field, was thus arranged on the +high road, and commanding the bridge, stood two heavy guns; and +four more, two on each side of the road, swept partly in the same +direction, and partly down the whole of the slope into the +streets of Bladensburg. The rest were scattered, with no great +judgment, along the second line of infantry, occupying different +spaces between the right of one regiment and the left of another; +whilst the cavalry showed itself in one mass, within a stubble +field, near the extreme left of the position. Such was the +nature of the ground which they occupied, and the formidable +posture in which they waited our approach; amounting, by their +own account, to nine thousand men, a number exactly doubling that +of the force which was to attack them. + +In the mean time, our column continued to advance in the same +order which it had hitherto preserved. The road, having +conducted us for about two miles in a direction parallel with the +river, and of consequence with the enemy's line, suddenly turned, +and led directly towards the town of Bladensburg. Being of +course ignorant whether this town might not be filled with +American troops, the main body paused here till the advanced +guard should reconnoitre. The result proved that no opposition +was intended in that quarter, and that the whole of the enemy's +army had been withdrawn to the opposite side of the stream, +whereupon the column was again put in motion, and in a short time +arrived in the streets of Bladensburg, and within range of the +American artillery. Immediately on our reaching this point, +several of their guns opened upon us, and kept up a quick and +well-directed cannonade, from which, as we were again commanded +to halt, the men were directed to shelter themselves as much as +possible behind the houses. The object of this halt, it was +conjectured, was to give the General an opportunity of examining +the American line, and of trying the depth of the river; because +at present there appeared to be but one practicable mode of +attack, by crossing the bridge, and taking the enemy directly in +front. To do so, however, exposed as the bridge was, must be +attended with bloody consequences, nor could the delay of a few +minutes produce any mischief which the discovery of a ford would +not amply compensate. + +But in this conjecture we were altogether mistaken; for without +allowing time to the column to close its ranks, or to be joined +by such of the many stragglers as were now hurrying, as fast as +weariness would permit, to regain their places, the order to halt +was countermanded, and the word given to attack; and we +immediately pushed on at double quick time, towards the head of +the bridge. While we were moving along the street, a continued +fire was kept up, with some execution, from those guns which +stood to the left of the road; but it was not till the bridge was +covered with our people that the two-gun battery upon the road +itself began to play.--Then, indeed, it also opened, and with +tremendous effect; for at the first discharge almost an entire +company was swept down; but whether it was that the guns had been +previously laid with measured exactness, or that the nerves of +the gunners became afterwards unsteady, the succeeding discharges +were much less fatal. The riflemen likewise began to gall us +from the wooded bank with a running fire of musketry; and it was +not without trampling upon many of their dead and dying comrades +that the light brigade established itself on the opposite side of +the stream. + +When once there, however, everything else appeared easy. +Wheeling off to the right and left of the road, they dashed into +the thicket, and quickly cleared it of the American skirmishers; +who, falling back with precipitation upon the first line, threw +it into disorder before it had fired a shot. The consequence +was, that our troops had scarcely shown themselves when the whole +of that line gave way, and fled in the greatest confusion, +leaving the two guns upon the road in possession of the victors. + +But here it must be confessed that the light brigade was guilty +of imprudence. Instead of pausing till the rest of the army came +up, the soldiers lightened themselves by throwing away their +knapsacks and haversacks; and extending their ranks so as to show +an equal front with the enemy, pushed on to the attack of the +second line. The Americans, however, saw their weakness, and +stood firm, and having the whole of their artillery, with the +exception of the pieces captured on the road, and the greater +part of their infantry in this line, they first checked the +ardour of the assailants by a heavy fire, and then, in their +turn, advanced to recover the ground which was lost. Against this +charge the extended order of the British troops would not permit +them to offer an effectual resistance, and they were accordingly +borne back to the very thicket upon the river's brink; where they +maintained themselves with determined obstinacy, repelling all +attempts to drive them through it; and frequently following, to +within a short distance of the cannon's mouth, such parts of the +enemy's line as gave way. + +In this state the action continued till the second brigade had +likewise crossed, and formed upon the right bank of the river; +when the 44th regiment moving to the right, and driving in the +skirmishers, debouched upon the left flank of the Americans, and +completely turned it. In that quarter, therefore, the battle was +won; because the raw militia-men, who were stationed there as +being the least assailable point, when once broken could not be +rallied. But on their right the enemy still kept their ground +with much resolution; nor was it till the arrival of the 4th +regiment, and the advance of the British forces in firm array to +the charge, that they began to waver. Then, indeed, seeing their +left in full flight, and the 44th getting in their rear, they +lost all order, and dispersed, leaving clouds of riflemen to +cover their retreat; and hastened to conceal themselves in the +woods, where it would have been madness to follow them. The rout +was now general throughout the line. The reserve, which ought to +have supported the main body, fled as soon as those in its front +began to give way; and the cavalry, instead of charging the +British troops, now scattered in pursuit, turned their horses' +heads and galloped off, leaving them in undisputed possession of +the field, and of ten out of the twenty pieces of artillery. + +This battle, by which the fate of the American capital was +decided, began about one o'clock in the afternoon, and lasted +till four. The loss on the part of the English was severe, +since, out of two-thirds of the army, which were engaged, upwards +of five hundred men were killed and wounded; and what rendered it +doubly severe was, that among these were numbered several +officers of rank and distinction. Colonel Thornton, who +commanded the light brigade, Lieutenant-Colonel Wood, commanding +the 85th regiment, and Major Brown, who led the advanced guard, +were all severely wounded; and General Ross himself had a horse +shot under him. On the side of the Americans the slaughter was +not so great. Being in possession of a strong position, they +were of course less exposed in defending, than the others in +storming it; and had they conducted themselves with coolness and +resolution, it is not conceivable how the battle could have been +won. But the fact is, that, with the exception of a party of +sailors from the gun-boats, under the command of Commodore +Barney, no troops could behave worse than they did. The +skirmishers were driven in as soon as attacked, the first line +gave way without offering the slightest resistance, and the left +of the main body was broken within half an hour after it was +seriously engaged. Of the sailors, however, it would be +injustice not to speak in the terms which their conduct merits. +They were employed as gunners, and not only did they serve their +guns with a quickness and precision which astonished their +assailants, but they stood till some of them were actually +bayoneted, with fuzes in their hands; nor was it till their +leader was wounded and taken, and they saw themselves deserted on +all sides by the soldiers, that they quitted the field. With +respect to the British army, again, no line of distinction can be +drawn. All did their duty, and none more gallantly than the +rest; and though the brunt of the affair fell upon the light +brigade, this was owing chiefly to the circumstance of its being +at the head of the column, and perhaps also, in some degree, to +its own rash impetuosity. The artillery, indeed, could do +little; being unable to show itself in presence of a force so +superior; but the six-pounder was nevertheless brought into +action, and a corps of rockets proved of striking utility. + +Our troops being worn down from fatigue, and of course as +ignorant of the country as the Americans were the reverse, the +pursuit could not be continued to any distance. Neither was it +attended with much slaughter. Diving into the recesses of the +forests, and covering themselves with riflemen, the enemy were +quickly beyond our reach; and having no cavalry to scour even the +high road, ten of the lightest of their guns were carried off in +the flight. The defeat, however, was absolute, and the army which +had been collected for the defence of Washington was scattered +beyond the possibility of, at least, an immediate reunion; and as +the distance from Bladensburg to that city does not exceed four +miles, there appeared to be no further obstacle in the way to +prevent its immediate capture. + + + +CHAPTER X. + +WASHINGTON + +AN opportunity so favourable was not endangered by any needless +delay. While the two brigades which had been engaged remained +upon the field to recover their order, the third, which had +formed the reserve, and was consequently unbroken, took the lead, +and pushed forward at a rapid rate towards Washington. + +As it was not the intention of the British Government to attempt +permanent conquests in this part of America, and as the General +was well aware that, with a handful of men, he could not pretend +to establish himself, for any length of time, in an enemy's +capital, he determined to lay it under contribution, and to +return quietly to the shipping. Nor was there anything unworthy +of the character of a British officer in this determination. By +all the customs of war, whatever public property may chance to be +in a captured town, becomes, confessedly, the just spoil of the +conqueror; and in thus proposing to accept a certain sum of money +in lieu of that property, he was showing mercy rather than +severity to the vanquished. It is true that if they chose to +reject his terms he and his army would be deprived of their +booty, because without some more convenient mode of transporting +it than we possessed, even the portable part of the property +itself could not be removed. But, on the other hand, there was +no difficulty in destroying it; and thus, though we should gain +nothing, the American Government would lose probably to a much +greater amount than if they had agreed to purchase its +preservation by the money demanded. + +Such being the intention of General Ross, he did not march the +troops immediately into the city, but halted them upon a plain +in its immediate vicinity, whilst a flag of truce was sent +forward with terms. But whatever his proposal might have been, +it was not so much as heard; for scarcely had the party bearing +the flag entered the street, when it was fired upon from the +windows of one of the houses, and the horse of the General +himself, who accompanied it, killed. The indignation excited by +this act throughout all ranks and classes of men in the army, was +such as the nature of the case could not fail to occasion. Every +thought of accommodation was instantly laid aside; the troops +advanced forthwith into the town, and having first put to the +sword all who were found in the house from which the shots were +fired, and reduced it to ashes, they proceeded without a moment's +delay to burn and destroy everything in the most distant degree +connected with Government. In this general devastation were +included the Senate-house, the President's palace, an extensive +dock-yard and arsenal, barracks for two or three thousand men, +several large storehouses filled with naval and military stores, +some hundreds of cannon of different descriptions, and nearly +twenty thousand stand of small-arms. There were also two or +three public ropewalks which shared the same fate, a fine frigate +pierced for sixty guns, and just ready to be launched, several +gun brigs and armed schooners, with a variety of gun-boats and +small craft. The powder-magazines were set on fire, and exploded +with a tremendous crash, throwing down many houses in their +vicinity, partly by pieces of the walls striking them, and partly +by the concussion of the air; whilst quantities of shot, shell, +and hand-grenades, which could not otherwise be rendered useless, +were cast into the river. In destroying the cannon a method was +adopted which I had never before witnessed, and which, as it was +both effectual and expeditious, I cannot avoid relating. One gun +of rather a small calibre was pitched upon as the executioner of +the rest, and being loaded with ball and turned to the muzzles of +the others, it was fired, and thus beat out their breechings. +Many, however, not being mounted, could not be thus dealt with; +these were spiked, and having their trunnions knocked off, were +afterwards cast into the bed of the river. + +All this was as it should be, and had the arm of vengeance been +extended no further, there would not have been room given for so +much as a whisper of disapprobation. But unfortunately it did not +stop here; a noble library, several printing-offices, and all +the national archives were likewise committed to the flames, +which, though no doubt the property of Government, might better +have been spared. It is not, however, my intention to join the +outcry which was raised at the time against what the Americans +and their admirers were pleased to term a line of conduct at once +barbarous and unprofitable. On the contrary, I conceive that too +much praise cannot be given to the forbearance and humanity of +the British troops, who, irritated as they had every right to be, +spared, as far as possible, all private property, neither +plundering nor destroying a single house in the place, except +that from which the General's horse had been killed. + +Whilst the third brigade was thus employed, the rest of the army, +having recalled its stragglers, and removed the wounded into +Bladensburg, began its march towards Washington. Though the +battle came to a close by four o'clock, the sun had set before +the different regiments were in a condition to move, consequently +this short journey was performed in the dark. The work of +destruction had also begun in the city before they quitted their +ground; and the blazing of houses, ships, and stores, the report +of exploding magazines, and the crash of falling roofs, informed +them, as they proceeded, of what was going forward. It would be +difficult to conceive a finer spectacle than that which presented +itself as they approached the town. The sky was brilliantly +illumined by the different conflagrations; and a dark red light +was thrown upon the road, sufficient to permit each man to view +distinctly his comrade's face. Except the burning of +St. Sebastian's, I do not recollect to have witnessed at any +period of my life a scene more striking or more sublime. + +Having advanced as far as the plain, where the reserve had +previously paused, the first and second brigades halted; and +forming into close column, passed the night in bivouac. At first +this was agreeable enough, because the air was mild, and +weariness made up for what was wanting in comfort. But towards +morning a violent storm of rain, accompanied with thunder and +lightning, came on, which disturbed the rest of all who were +exposed to it. Yet in spite of the inconvenience arising from +the shower, I cannot say that I felt disposed to grumble at the +interruption, for it appeared that what I had before considered +as superlatively sublime, still wanted this to render it +complete. The flashes of lightning vied in brilliancy with the +flames which burst from the roofs of burning houses, whilst the +thunder drowned for a time the noise of crumbling walls, and was +only interrupted by the occasional roar of cannon, and of large +depots of gunpowder, as they one by one exploded. + +I need scarcely observe, that the consternation of the +inhabitants was complete, and that to them this was a night of +terror. So confident had they been of the success of their +troops, that few of them had dreamt of quitting their houses or +abandoning the city; nor was it till the fugitives from the +battle began to rush in, filling every place as they came with +dismay, that the President himself thought of providing for his +safety. That gentleman, as I was credibly informed, had gone +forth in the morning with the army, and had continued among his +troops till the British forces began to make their appearance. +Whether the sight of his enemies cooled his courage or not I +cannot say, but according to my informant, no sooner was the +glittering of our arms discernible, than he began to discover +that his presence was more wanted in the senate than in the +field; and having ridden through the ranks, and exhorted every +man to do his duty, he hurried back to his own house, that he +might prepare a feast for the entertainment of his officers, when +they should return victorious. For the truth of these details I +will not be answerable; but this much I know, that the feast was +actually prepared, though, instead of being devoured by American +officers, it went to satisfy the less delicate appetites of a +party of English soldiers. When the detachment sent out to +destroy Mr. Maddison's house, entered his dining parlour, they +found a dinner-table spread, and covers laid for forty guests. +Several kinds of wine in handsome cut-glass decanters were +cooling on the sideboard; plate-holders stood by the fire-place, +filled with dishes and plates; knives, forks, and spoons, were +arranged for immediate use; everything in short was ready for the +entertainment of a ceremonious party. Such were the arrangements +in the dining-room, whilst in the kitchen were others answerable +to them in every respect. Spits loaded with joints of various +sorts turned before the fire; pots, saucepans, and other culinary +utensils stood upon the grate; and all the other requisites for +an elegant and substantial repast were in the exact state which +indicated that they had been lately and precipitately abandoned. + +The reader will easily believe that these preparations were +beheld, by a party of hungry soldiers, with no indifferent +eye. An elegant dinner, even though considerably over-dressed, +was a luxury to which few of them, at least for some time back, +had been accustomed; and which, after the dangers and fatigues +of the day, appeared peculiarly inviting. They sat down to it, +therefore, not indeed in the most orderly manner, but with +countenances which would not have disgraced a party of aldermen +at a civic feast; and having satisfied their appetites with fewer +complaints than would have probably escaped their rival +gourmands, and partaken pretty freely of the wines, they finished +by setting fire to the house which had so liberally entertained +them. + +I have said that to the inhabitants of Washington this was a +night of terror and dismay. From whatever cause the confidence +arose, certain it is that they expected anything rather than the +arrival among them of a British army; and their consternation was +proportionate to their previous feeling of security, when an +event, so little anticipated, actually came to pass. The first +impulse naturally prompted them to fly, and the streets were +speedily crowded with soldiers and senators, men, women, and +children, horses, carriages, and carts loaded with household +furniture, all hastening towards a wooden bridge which crosses +the Potomac. The confusion thus occasioned was terrible, and the +crowd upon the bridge was such as to endanger its giving way. +But Mr. Maddison, as is affirmed, having escaped among the first, +was no sooner safe on the opposite bank of the river, than he +gave orders that the bridge should be broken down; which being +obeyed, the rest were obliged to return, and to trust to the +clemency of the victors. + +In this manner was the night passed by both parties; and at +daybreak next morning the light brigade moved into the city, +whilst the reserve fell back to a height about half a mile in the +rear. Little, however, now remained to be done, because +everything marked out for destruction was already consumed. Of +the Senate-house, the President's palace, the barracks, the +dockyard, &c., nothing could be seen, except heaps of smoking +ruins; and even the bridge, a noble structure upwards of a mile +in length, was almost entirely demolished. There was, therefore, +no further occasion to scatter the troops, and they were +accordingly kept together as much as possible on the Capitol +Hill. + +Of the city of Washington I have purposely declined attempting +any minute description, because it possesses no leading features, +by catching which I might hope to convey to a person who has not +seen it, something like an accurate notion of the whole. It was +then, and is, I believe, still in its infancy, few of the streets +being finished, and many containing not more than three or four +houses, at wide intervals from each other. But its situation +gives to it advantages such as few capitals either in the new or +old world can boast of, and if it continue to be the head of the +American States for another century, it will become, I doubt not, +one of the most flourishing cities in existence. America is, and +always will be, a commercial nation, nor can a single town +throughout the whole of that vast continent boast of a better +harbour than Washington. Standing upon the Potomac, one of the +most navigable of all the rivers that empty themselves into the +Chesapeake, the depth of which is sufficient to float a frigate +for some way above the town, it possesses unrivalled facilities +for the carrying on of an extensive trade; whilst its distance +from the coast is such as to place it, in a great measure, beyond +reach of insult from an enemy. Such an assertion, coming from +one who has just detailed the particulars of its capture, may, +indeed, appear to partake not slightly of the nature of a +paradox; but there is no denying that the fall of Washington +ought to be attributed much more to the misconduct of the +Americans themselves, than to the skill or enterprise of those +who effected it. Had the emergency been contemplated, and in a +proper manner provided against, or had the most moderate +ingenuity and courage been displayed in retarding the progress of +our troops, the design, if formed at all, would have been either +abandoned immediately, or must have ended in the total +destruction of the invaders. + +Like other infant towns, Washington is but little ornamented with +fine buildings; except the Senate-house, I really know of none +worthy to be noticed. This however is, or rather was, an edifice +of some beauty. It stood, where its ruins now stand, upon a mound +called the Capitol Hill, and near a trifling stream named the +Tiber; from which circumstances these modern republicans are led +to flatter themselves that the days are coming when it will rival +in power and grandeur the Senate-house of ancient Rome +herself. It was built entirely of freestone, tastefully worked +and highly polished; and, besides its numerous windows, was +lighted from the top by a large and handsome cupola. Perhaps it +could not be said to belong to any decided style of architecture; +but its central appearance was light, airy, and elegant. After +traversing a wide and spacious entrance-hall, you arrived at the +foot of a handsome spiral hanging staircase; on the right of +which were two spacious apartments, one above the other, which +were occupied as sitting chambers by the two houses of +representatives. From these branched off several smaller rooms, +fitted up as offices, and probably used as such by the various +officers of state. On the right of the staircase, again, were two +other apartments equal in size to those on the left, with a like +number of smaller rooms branching off from them. These were +furnished as a public library, the two larger being well stocked +with valuable books, principally in modern languages, whilst the +others, filled with archives, national statutes, acts of +legislature, &c., were used as the private rooms of the +librarians. + +The President's house, on the other hand, though likewise a +public building, was remarkable for nothing except the absence of +taste exhibited in its structure. It was small, incommodious, +and plain; in no respect likely to excite the jealousy of a +people peculiarly averse to all pomp or parade, even in their +chief magistrate. Besides these, there were also a custom-house, +several banking-houses, and a school or college, all claiming to +themselves the destruction of public works; but in them there was +a plainness amounting almost to coarseness, and a general air of +republicanism, by no means imposing. With respect to the number +of inhabitants which Washington contained, I confess that I +cannot pretend to give an opinion: but if any judgment may be +formed from the extent of ground covered by what is considered as +the town, I should say that they amounted to somewhere about +sixty thousand. George Town, the quarter where the President's +house stood, is compact and regular, containing, I should +conceive, at least twenty thousand souls within itself; nor can +the population of the other quarters be estimated at less than +double that number. + +Such was then the city of Washington, of which our hasty and +unfriendly visit did not allow us to take a very minute survey. +I return now to the movements of the British army. + +I have stated above that our troops were this day kept as much +together as possible upon the Capitol Hill. But it was not alone +on account of the completion of their destructive labours that +this was done. A powerful army of Americans already began to show +themselves upon some heights, at the distance of two or three +miles from the city; and as they sent out detachments of horse +even to the very suburbs, for the purpose of watching our +motions, it would have been unsafe to permit more straggling than +was absolutely necessary. The army which we had overthrown the +day before, though defeated, was far from annihilated; it had by +this time recovered its panic, began to concentrate itself in our +front, and presented quite as formidable an appearance as +ever. We learnt, also, that it was joined by a considerable force +from the back settlements, which had arrived too late to take +part in the action, and the report was, that both combined +amounted to nearly twelve thousand men. + +Whether or not it was their intention to attack, I cannot pretend +to say, because it was noon before they showed themselves; and +soon after, when something like a movement could be discerned in +their ranks, the sky grew suddenly dark, and the most tremendous +hurricane ever remembered by the oldest inhabitant in the place +came on. Of the prodigious force of the wind it is impossible +for one who was not an eye-witness to its effects to form a +conception. Roofs of houses were torn off by it, and whirled +into the air like sheets of paper; whilst the rain which +accompanied it resembled the rushing of a mighty cataract rather +than the dropping of a shower. The darkness was as great as if +the sun had long set, and the last remains of twilight had come +on, occasionally relieved by flashes of vivid lightning streaming +through it; which, together with the noise of the wind and the +thunder, the crash of falling buildings, and the tearing of roofs +as they were stript from the walls, produced the most appalling +effect I ever have, and probably ever shall, witness. The storm +lasted for nearly two hours without intermission, during which +time many of the houses spared by us were blown down, and thirty +of our men, besides several of the inhabitants, buried beneath +their ruins. Our column was as completely dispersed as if it had +received a total defeat; some of the men flying for shelter +behind walls and buildings, and others falling flat upon the +ground, to prevent themselves from being carried away by the +tempest; nay, such was the violence of the wind, that two pieces +of light cannon, which stood upon the eminence, were fairly +lifted from the ground, and borne several yards to the rear. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + +WHEN the hurricane had blown over, the camp of the Americans +appeared to be in as great a state of confusion as our own; nor +could either party recover themselves sufficiently during the +rest of the day to try the fortune of a battle. Of this General +Ross did not fail to take advantage. He had already attained all +that he could hope, and perhaps more than he originally expected +to attain; consequently, to risk another action would only be to +spill blood for no purpose. Whatever might be the issue of the +contest, he could derive from it no advantage. If he were +victorious, it would not do away with the necessity which existed +of evacuating Washington; if defeated, his ruin was certain. To +avoid fighting was therefore his object, and perhaps he owed its +accomplishment to the fortunate occurrence of the storm. Be +that, however, as it may, a retreat was resolved upon; and we now +only waited for night, to put the resolution into practice. + +There was, however, one difficulty to be surmounted in this +proceeding. Of the wounded, many were so ill as to preclude all +possibility of their removal, and to leave them in the hands of +an enemy whom we had beaten was rather a mortifying +anticipation. But for this there was no help; and it now only +remained to make the best arrangements for their comfort, and to +secure for them, as far as could be done, civil treatment from +the Americans. + +It chanced that, among other prisoners taken at Bladensburg, was +Commodore Barney, an American officer of much gallantry and high +sense of honour. Being himself wounded, he was the more likely +to feel for those who were in a similar condition, and having +received the kindest treatment from our medical attendants, as +long as he continued under their hands, he became, without +solicitation, the friend of his fellow-sufferers. To him, as +well as to the other prisoners, was given his parole, and to his +care were our wounded, in a peculiar manner, intrusted,--a trust +which he received with the utmost willingness, and discharged +with the most praiseworthy exactness. Among other stipulations, +it was agreed that such of our people as were left behind should +be considered as prisoners of war, and should be restored to us +as soon as they were able to travel; and that, as soon as they +reached the ships, the Commodore and his countrymen would, in +exchange, be released from their engagements. + +As soon as these arrangements were completed, and darkness had +come on, the third brigade, which was posted in the rear of our +army, began to withdraw. Then followed the guns, afterwards the +second, and last of all the light brigade, exactly reversing the +order which had been maintained during the advance. Instead of an +advanced guard, this last now furnished a party to cover the +retreat, and the whole procession was closed by the mounted +drivers. + +It being a matter of great importance to deceive the enemy and to +prevent pursuit, the rear of the column did not quit its ground +upon the Capitol till a late hour. During the day an order had +been issued that none of the inhabitants should be seen in the +streets after eight o'clock; and as fear renders most men +obedient, the order was punctually attended to. All the horses +belonging to different officers were removed to drag the guns, no +one being allowed to ride, lest a neigh, or even the trampling of +hoofs, should excite suspicion. The fires were trimmed, and made +to blaze brightly; fuel enough was left to keep them so for some +hours; and finally, about half-past nine o'clock the troops +formed in marching order, and moved off in the most profound +silence. Not a word was spoken, nor a single individual +permitted to step one inch out of his place, by which means they +passed along the streets perfectly unnoticed, and cleared the +town without any alarm being given. Our pace, it will be +imagined, was none of the most tardy, consequently it was not +long before we reached the ground which had been occupied by the +other brigades. Here we found a second line of fires blazing in +the same manner as those deserted by ourselves; and the same +precautions in every respect adopted, to induce a belief that our +army was still quiet.--Beyond these, again, we found two or three +solitary fires, placed in such order as to resemble those of a +chain of piquets. In a word, the deception was so well managed, +that even we ourselves were at first doubtful whether the rest of +the troops had fallen back. + +When we reached the ground where yesterday's battle had been +fought, the moon rose, and exhibited a spectacle by no means +enlivening.--The dead were still unburied, and lay about in every +direction completely naked. They had been stripped even of their +shirts, and having been exposed in this state to the violent rain +in the morning, they appeared to be bleached to a most unnatural +degree of whiteness. The heat and rain together had likewise +affected them in a different manner; and the smell which rose +upon the night air was horrible. + +There is something in such a scene as this extremely humbling, +and repugnant to the feelings of human nature. During the +agitation of a battle, it is nothing to see men fall in hundreds +by your side. You may look at them, perhaps, for an instant, but +you do so almost without being yourself aware of it, so +completely are your thoughts carried away by the excitation of +the moment and the shouts of your companions.--But when you come +to view the dead in an hour of calmness, stripped as they +generally are, you cannot help remembering how frail may have +been the covering which saved yourself from being the loathsome +thing on which you are now gazing.--For myself, I confess that +these reflections rose within my mind on the present occasion; +and if any one should say that, similarly situated, they would not +rise in his, I should give him no credit for a superior degree of +courage, though I might be inclined to despise him for his want +of the common feelings of a reasonable being. + +BLADENSBURG. + +In Bladensburg the brigade halted for an hour, while those men +who had thrown away their knapsacks endeavoured to recover them. +During this interval I strolled up to a house which had been +converted into an hospital, and paid a hasty visit to the +wounded. I found them in great pain, and some of them deeply +affected at the thought of being abandoned by their comrades, and +left to the mercy of their enemies. Yet, in their apprehension +of evil treatment from the Americans, the event proved that they +had done injustice to that people; who were found to possess at +least one generous trait in their character, namely, that of +behaving kindly and attentively to their prisoners. + +As soon as the stragglers had returned to their ranks, we again +moved on, continuing to march without once stopping to rest +during the whole of the night. Of the fatigue of a night march +none but those who have experienced it can form the smallest +conception. Oppressed with the most intolerable drowsiness, we +were absolutely dozing upon our legs; and if any check at the +head of the column caused a momentary delay, the road was +instantly covered with men fast asleep. It is generally +acknowledged that no inclination is so difficult to resist as the +inclination to sleep; but when you are compelled not only to bear +up against that, but to struggle also with weariness, and to walk +at the same time, it is scarcely possible to hold out long. By +seven o'clock in the morning, it was found absolutely necessary +to pause, because numbers had already fallen behind, and numbers +more were ready to follow their example; when throwing ourselves +upon the ground, almost in the same order in which we had +marched, in less than five minutes there was not a single +unclosed eye throughout the whole brigade. Piquets were of +course stationed, and sentinels placed, to whom no rest was +granted, but, except these, the entire army resembled a heap of +dead bodies on a field of battle, rather than living men. + +ARLBOROUGH + +In this situation we remained till noon, when we were again +roused to continue the retreat. Though the sun was oppressively +powerful, we moved on without resting till dark, when having +arrived at our old position near Marlborough, we halted for the +night. During this day's march we were joined by numbers of +negro slaves, who implored us to take them along with us, +offering to serve either as soldiers or sailors, if we would but +give them their liberty; but as General Ross persisted in +protecting private property of every description, few of them +were fortunate enough to obtain their wishes. + +We had now proceeded a distance of thirty-five miles, and began +to consider ourselves beyond the danger of pursuit. The +remainder of the retreat was accordingly conducted with more +leisure; our next march carrying us no farther than to +Nottingham, where we remained during an entire day, for the +purpose of resting the troops. It cannot, however, be said that +this resting-time was spent in idleness. A gun-brig, with a +number of ships' launches and long-boats, had made their way up +the stream, and were at anchor opposite to the town. On board +the former were carried such of the wounded as had been able to +travel, whilst the latter were loaded with flour and tobacco, the +only spoil which we found it practicable to bring off. + +Whilst the infantry were thus employed, the cavalry was sent back +as far as Marlborough, to discover whether there were any +American forces in pursuit; and it was well for the few +stragglers who had been left behind that this recognizance was +made. Though there appeared to be no disposition on the part of +the American General to follow our steps and to harass the +retreat, the inhabitants of that village, at the instigation of a +medical practitioner called Bain, bad risen in arms as soon as we +departed; and falling upon such individuals as strayed from the +column, put some of them to death, and made others prisoners. A +soldier whom they had taken, and who had escaped, gave +information of these proceedings to the troopers, just as they +were about to return to head-quarters; upon which they +immediately wheeled about, and galloping into the village, pulled +the doctor out of his bed (for it was early in the morning), +compelled him, by a threat of instant death, to liberate his +prisoners; and mounting him before one of the party, brought him +in triumph to the camp. + +ST. BENEDICT'S. + +The wounded, the artillery, and plunder, being all embarked on +the 28th, at daybreak on the 29th we took the direction of +St. Benedict's, where we arrived, without any adventure, at +a late hour in the evening. Here we again occupied the ground of +which we had taken possession on first landing, passing the night +in perfect quiet; and next day, the boats of the fleet being +ready to receive us, the regiments, one by one, marched down to +the beach. We found the shore covered with sailors from the +different ships of war, who welcomed our arrival with loud +cheers; and having contrived to bring up a larger flotilla than +had been employed in the disembarkation, they removed us within a +few hours, and without the occurrence of any accident, to our +respective vessels. + +Such is a plain impartial account of the inroad upon Washington, +an affair than which the whole war produced none more brilliant +or more daring. In whatever light we may regard it, whether we +look to the amount of difficulties which it behoved him to +overcome, the inadequacy of the force which he commanded, or the +distance which he was called upon to march, in the midst of a +hostile population, and through deep and trackless forests, we +cannot deny to General Ross the praise which is his due, of +having planned and successfully accomplished an expedition which +none but a sagacious mind could have devised, and none but a +gallant spirit carried into execution. Among the many important +transactions which then occupied the public attention, the +campaign at Washington was, I believe, but little spoken of; and +even now, it is overwhelmed in the recollections of the +all-engrossing Waterloo; but the time will probably come, when he +who at the head of four thousand men penetrated upwards of sixty +miles into an enemy's country; overthrew an army more than double +his own in point of numbers; took possession of the capital of a +great nation, and having held it as long as it suited his own +purposes to hold it, returned again in triumph to his fleet, will +be ranked, as he deserves to be ranked, among the number of those +who have most successfully contributed to elevate Great Britain +to the height of military glory on which she now stands. + +It has been said that the entire merit of this brilliant +expedition is due, not so much to the brave man who conducted it, +as to Sir George Cockburn, at whose suggestion it was undertaken. +To the great gallantry and high talents of Sir George Cockburn no +one who served within the compass of the Bay of Chesapeake will +refuse to bear testimony, nor is it improbable that in +attributing to him the original, design of laying Washington +itself under contribution, common report speaks truly. But with +whomsoever the idea first originated, to General Boss belongs the +undivided of having, carried it into effect. From Sir George +Oockburn, and indeed from the whole fleet, the army received +every assistance which it was in the power of the the fleet to +bestow; but had no Ross been at the head of the land forces, the +capital of the United States would have suffered no insult. I +have ventured to make these remarks, not with any design of +taking away, in the slightest degree, from the well-earned +reputation of the living; but merely as an act of justice towards +the memory of the gallant dead, whose services have hardly +received all the notice, either from the Government or the +country, which they deserved. + +Of the degree of military sagacity exhibited on both sides, +during the progress of hostilities, it scarcely becomes me to +speak. Perhaps our leader delayed something too long in making, +up his mind as to the ultimate end to be pursued, after the troop +had penetrated so far into the interior as Marlborough. Had he +pushed on at once, it is barely possible that Washington might +have fallen at a less expense of human life than actually +occurred. Perhaps, too, he commenced she attack at Bladensburg +with a degree of precipitancy which hindered him from, taking +advantage of an open ford, and compelled him to expose his troops +to the fire of the enemy's artillery whilst crossing a narrow +bridge in a single column. But these errors, if errors they may +be termed, were amply compensated by the perfect success of his +operations; whilst in every other particular his conduct was +beyond the reach of censure. In his choice of ground for +halting, in the order both of his advance and retreat, and in +the rapidity of his movements as soon as his plans had been +arranged, General Ross exhibited himself in the light of an able +and diligent commander. No man could possess, more than he a +soldier's eye in examining the face of a country; and in what +little manoeuvring the circumstances permitted, he displayed the +proficiency of one well practised in the arts of campaigning. It +will be recollected, that on the 23rd, the day previous to the +battle, we fell in with a strong body of the enemy, to deceive +whom we wheeled off from the main road, and took the direction of +Alexandria. The plan was attended by the most perfect success; +the party deceived, being in fact the advanced guard of the main +army. Thinking that Alexandria, and not Washington, was +threatened, the American General abandoned a strong position, +which he had seized on the main road, harassed his troops by +a needless march towards that town; and discovered his mistake +only time enough to occupy the heights of Bladensburg a very few +minutes before we came in sight. + +With respect to the Americans, again, criticism necessarily +degenerates into unqualified censure. From the beginning to the +end of the affair, they acted in no one instance like prudent or +sagacious men. In the first place, they ought on no account to +have risked a general action in an open country, however strong +and steep; and, secondly, they deserved to suffer much more +severely than they did suffer, for permitting an enemy's army to +penetrate beyond Nottingham. In allowing us to land without +opposition, they were perhaps guilty of no great mistake; but +having done so, instead of concentrating their forces in one +place, they ought to have harassed us with continual skirmishing; +felled trees on each side, and thrown them across the road; dug +deep ditches at certain intervals; in a word, it was their wisdom +to adopt the mode of warfare to which their own habits, as, well +as the nature of their country, invited them. + +In America, every man is a marksman from his very boyhood, and +every man serves in the militia; but to bring an army of raw +militia-men, however excellent they might be as marksmen, into a +fair field against regular troops, could end in nothing but +defeat. When two lines oppose each other, very little depends +upon the accuracy with which individuals take aim. It is then +that the habit of acting in concert, the confidence which each +man feels in his a companions, and the rapidity and good order in +which different movements can be executed, are alone of real +service. But put these raw militia-men into thick woods, and +send your regular troops to drive them out, and you will +immediately lose all the advantages of discipline, and reduce +your battle to so many single combats. + +Here, therefore, lay their principal error: had they left all +clear, and Permitted us to advance as far as Nottingham, then +broken up the roads, and covered them with trees, it would have +been impossible for us to go a step beyond. As soon as this was +effected, they might have skirmished with us in front, and kept +our attention alive with part of their troops, till the rest, +acquainted as they doubtless were with every inch of the country, +had got into our rear, and, by a similar mode of proceeding, cut +off our retreat. Thus we should have been taken in a snare, from +which it would have been no easy task to extricate ourselves, and +might, perhaps, have been obliged in the end to surrender at +discretion. + +But so obvious and so natural a plan of defence they chose to +reject ad determining to trust all to the fate of a battle, they +were guilty of a monstrous error again. Bladensburg ought not to +have been left unoccupied. The most open village, if resolutely +defended, will cost many men before it falls; whereas +Bladensburg, being composed of substantial brick houses, might +have been maintained for hours against all our efforts. In the +next place, they displayed great want of military knowledge in +the disposition of both their infantry and artillery. There was +not, in the whole space of their position, a single point where +an enemy would be exposed to a cross fire. The troops were drawn +up in three straight lines, like so many regiments upon a gala +parade; whilst the guns were used as connecting links to a chain, +being posted in the same order, by ones and twos, at every +interval. + +In maintaining themselves, likewise, when attacked, they exhibited +neither skill nor resolution. Of the personal courage of the Americans +there can be no doubt; they are, individually taken, as brave a nation +as any in the world. But they are not soldiers; they have not the +experience nor the habits of soldiers. It was the height of folly, +therefore, to bring them into a situation where nothing except that +experience and those habits will avail; and it is on this account that +I repeat what I have already said, that the capture of Washington was +more owing to the blindness of the Americans themselves than to any +other cause. + + +CHAPTER XII. + +ALEXANDRIA + +WHILST the army was thus actively employed, the fleet did not remain +idle. A squadron of frigates, with two bomb-ships, under the command +of Captain Gordon, of the Sea-horse, penetrated up the Potomac, and +appeared before Alexandria. The whole of the militia of the district +was at this time called away for the defence of the capital, +consequently no place could be less prepared to resist an invader +than that city. A party accordingly landed from the ships without +opposition, and having destroyed the barracks, public works, and all +the cannon which they found on shore, they seized a number of +schooners and other small craft then lying in the harbour, and loading +them with flour and tobacco to a considerable amount, prepared to +rejoin the fleet in the bay. + +But by this time the country was alarmed; a detachment was sent from +the main army, and being joined by the reserve of militia, it was +determined to intercept the squadron on its return. With this view, +several pieces of heavy cannon were mounted upon a steep part of the +bank, where the river, in making an angle, narrows considerably in its +channel. Thither also hastened large bodies of infantry; and before +the frigates had begun to weigh anchor nearly 5000 men were assembled +to prevent their passage. + +Of these preparations Captain Gordon did not long remain ignorant; nor +was he backward in making the best arrangements possible to meet the +danger. By shifting the ballast in each of the vessels entirely to +one side, he caused them to lean in such a manner as that their +artillery could be elevated to a surprising degree, and the shot rise +even to the summit of the hill. The guns were then stuffed, rather +than loaded, with grape and musket-balls; and the ships, taking their +stations according to their draft of water, the lightest keeping +nearest to the enemy's shore, set sail, and, favoured by a leading +breeze, stood leisurely down the river. + +As soon as they arrived within tangible distance, a brisk +cannonade was opened upon them from the heights, and the whole of +the infantry appeared in line along, the brow of the eminence. +Regardless of these formidable salutations, the ships continued +to hold their course without changing their order or returning a +shot, till they reached the base of the hill upon which the +infantry stood, and received a volley of musketry into their +decks. Then, indeed, they answered the fire; and with such +effect, that at the first broadside the enemy's guns were +abandoned, and their infantry took to flight. The Americans had +persuaded themselves that no ship could point her guns so as to +sweep the top of the hill; and under this idea had drawn up their +troops along the ridge, with the intention of overawing the +squadron by a display of their numbers. But in the event they +found themselves mistaken, for so well had Captain Gordon +arranged matters, that not a single shot fell under its mark; and +as the ships' artillery had been loaded for the occasion, a +shower of balls of every size and description came amongst them, +such as it was impossible to withstand. A single broadside was +sufficient to secure the safe passage of his squadron; but with +this Captain Gordon was not contented. Seeing the enemy driven +from their cannon, he immediately landed his marines, spiked the +guns, and blew up the expense magazines; when, having received +them all safely on board again, he continued his voyage, and +regained the Chesapeake without further molestation. + +Nor was this the only operation in which the navy were employed. +Cruising about in every direction, they threatened the whole line +of coast, from the entrance to the very bend of the bay; and thus +kept the Americans in a constant state of alarm. Whenever a +favourable opportunity presented itself, parties landed, +plundered or destroyed the Government stores, laid towns and +districts under contribution, and brought off all the shipping +which could be reached. In a word, the hostilities carried on in +the Chesapeake resembled the expeditions of the ancient Danes +against Great Britain, rather than a modern war between civilized +nations. But these hasty excursions, though generally +successful, were not always performed without loss to the +invaders. Many men and some officers were killed and wounded, +among whom was Captain Sir Peter Parker, of the Menelaus frigate, +an officer distinguished for his gallantry and knowledge of naval +tactics. Having learnt that an encampment of 300 men and six +pieces of cannon had been formed, at the distance of a few miles +from the banks of the Potomac, and about nine leagues below +Alexandria, he determined, with part of his ship's crew, to +surprise it, and to capture the guns. Running his frigate with +this view up the river, he cast anchor opposite to the place +where the American forces lay; and leaving on board only a +sufficient number of sailors to manage the ship, and to guard +against surprise, with the rest, amounting to 200 seamen and +marines, he landed, and marched rapidly towards the enemy's camp. +But intelligence of his proceedings had already reached them; +patrols of horse hovering continually along the coast for the +purpose of watching the motions of our fleet. When, therefore, +he arrived at the point of destination, he found the bivouac +deserted, and the rear-guard in full retreat. With these a +little skirmishing ensued, and he received a rifle-ball in the +thigh. Not suspecting that the wound was dangerous, he continued +to push forward, till he fell exhausted from loss of blood; when, +on examining the hurt, it was found that the femoral artery had +been cut; and before any proper assistance could be afforded, he +literally bled to death. Seeing their leader killed, and the +enemy retiring, apparently with the design of drawing them away +from the coast, the sailors now halted; and taking up their dead +commander, returned to the river without being able to effect +anything which might, in any degree, console them for their loss. + +THE PATUXENT. + +In the meantime the army continued, for some days, quietly on +board the ships in the Patuxent. The wounded whose cases +appeared most desperate were removed to vessels fitted up for +their reception, and sailed, some for Halifax, and others for +England. The dispatches were likewise made out and sent off in +the Iphigenia, whilst a sort of breathing-time was given to those +who had been of late so actively employed. Whilst this sabbath +continued, I amused myself by landing; and under the pretext of +shooting, strolled sometimes farther up the country than prudence +exactly warranted. The houses and villas, upon the immediate +banks of the river, I found universally deserted, and thoroughly +plundered. The corn, however, was uninjured; and even flocks of +sheep were seen grazing within a short distance of the water, +protected only by negro slaves. Of these none were taken without +an equivalent being as faithfully paid as if they had been sold +in the market-place of New York; a circumstance which favoured +the belief that the houses had been ransacked, not by the British +troops, but by the inhabitants themselves. Whether it was really +so or not I cannot say, but this I know, that from the time of +our arrival in the Chesapeake, all acts of individual plunder or +violence were strictly prohibited, and severely punished. + +But this appearance of ruin and desertion extended not more than +a mile or two from the coast. Beyond that, I found the cottages +occupied by their owners, and everything remaining as if no enemy +were within a hundred miles. The young men, indeed, were +generally absent, because every man fit to bear arms was now +serving with the army; but the old men and the women seemed to +live as comfortably as if the most profound peace had reigned +throughout the State. Nor did I find them altogether so hostile +to our interest as I had expected. They professed to be +Federalists; and though they regretted the events of the war, +they blamed their own rulers for its commencement. Tempted by +this show of quietness, I one day continued my walk to a greater +distance from the fleet than I had yet ventured to do. My +servant was with me, but had no arms, and I was armed only with a +double-barrelled fowling-piece. Having wearied myself with +looking for game, and penetrated beyond my former landmarks, I +came suddenly upon a small hamlet, occupying a piece of cleared +ground in the very heart of a thick wood. With this, to confess +the truth, I was by no means delighted, more especially as I +perceived two stout-looking men sitting at the door of one of the +cottages. To retire unobserved was, however, impossible, because +the rustling which I had made among the trees attracted their +attention, and they saw me; probably, before I had seen them. +Perceiving that their eyes were fixed upon me, I determined to +put a bold face upon the matter; and calling aloud, as if to a +party to halt, I advanced, with my servant, towards them. They +were dressed in sailors' jackets and trowsers, and rose on my +approach, taking off their hats with much civility. On joining +them, I demanded to be informed whether they were not Englishmen, +and deserters from the fleet, stating that I was in search of two +persons very much answering their description. They assured me +that they were Americans, and no deserters, begging that I would +not take them away; a request to which, after some time, I +assented. They then conducted me into the house, where I found +an old man and three women, who entertained me with bread, +cheese, and new milk. While I was sitting here, a third youth, +in the dress of a labourer, entered, and whispered to one of the +sailors, who immediately rose to go out, but I commanded him to +sit still, declaring that I was not satisfied, and should +certainly arrest him if he attempted to escape. The man sat down +sulkily; and the young labourer coming forward, begged permission +to examine my gun. This was a request which I did not much +relish, and with which I, of course, refused to comply; telling +the fellow that it was loaded, and that I was unwilling to trust +it out of my own band, on account of a weakness in one of the +locks. + +I had now kept up appearances as long as they could be kept up, +and therefore rose to withdraw; a measure to which I was +additionally induced by the appearance of two other countrymen at +the opposite end of the hamlet. I therefore told the sailors +that, if they would pledge themselves to remain quietly at home, +without joining the American army, I would not molest them; +warning them, at the same time, not to venture beyond the +village, lest they should fall into the hands of other parties, +who were also in search of deserters. The promise they gave, but +not with much alacrity, when I rose, and keeping my eye fixed +upon them, and my gun ready cocked in my hand, walked out, +followed by my servant. They conducted us to the door, and stood +staring after us till we got to the edge of the wood; when I +observed them moving towards their countrymen, who also gazed +upon us, without either advancing or flying. The reader will +readily believe, that as soon as we found ourselves concealed by +the trees, we lost no time in endeavouring to discover the direct +way towards the shipping; but plunging into the thickets, ran +with all speed, without thinking of aught except an immediate +escape from pursuit. Whether the Americans did attempt to +follow, or not, I cannot tell. If they did, they took a wrong +direction, for in something more than an hour I found myself at +the edge of the river, a little way above the shipping, and +returned safely on board, fully resolved not again, to expose +myself to such risks, without necessity. + +THE PATAPSCO. + +In this manner the time was spent till daybreak on the 6th of +September, when the whole fleet got under weigh, and stood +towards the Chesapeake. The wind was fair, and we speedily +cleared the river; but instead of standing up the bay, as we had +expected, we ran down a few miles below the mouth of the +Patuxent, and there anchored. A signal was then made by +telegraph for all ships to send in a return of the number of +seamen whom, in addition to marines, they could land with +small-arms. Every ship's crew was accordingly mustered, and it +was found that, besides the numbers necessary for conveying +stores and dragging guns, one thousand sailors could be spared +from the fleet. Thus, in spite of our loss at Bladensburg, we +were enabled on our next debarkation to bring into the field +about five thousand fighting men. + +Next morning we again weighed, and directed our course towards the +Potomac. We entered this river soon after midday, and continued to +stem the stream during the night, and till dusk on the following +evening, when we again brought up. Here we were joined by Admiral +Cockburn, who had quitted the anchorage some days before the rest of +the fleet, with a large flotilla of prizes and small craft; and +having on the 9th once more set sail, and steered for a few hours in +the direction of Alexandria, we suddenly put about, and, favoured by a +fresh breeze, ran down to the bay, turning our heads upwards towards +the Patapsco. Baltimore, it was now understood, was the point of +attack; and towards the river upon which that town is built we +hastened under a heavy press of sail. + +The object of this manoeuvring was evidently to deceive the +enemy, and by keeping him in suspense as to the place threatened, +to prevent his concentrating his forces, or throwing up works for +its defence. But in the attainment of our object, the event +proved that we were but partially successful. Certain it is, +however, that the utmost consternation prevailed in every town or +village opposite to which we made our appearance. In passing +Anapolis, a considerable town built upon the bay, and possessing +a tolerable harbour, we stood in so close as to discern the +inhabitants flying from their houses; carts and waggons loaded +with furniture hurrying along the roads, and horsemen galloping +along the shore, as if watching the fearful moment when the boats +should be hoisted out, and the troops quit the vessels. Wherever +a lighthouse or signal station was erected, alarm-guns were fired +and beacons lighted. In a word, all the horrors of doubt and +apprehension seemed to oppress the inhabitants of this devoted +district. + +The fair wind continuing to blow without interruption, on the +11th we came in sight of the projecting headland, where it was +designed to disembark the troops. It was a promontory washed by +the Patapsco on one side, and a curvature of the bay itself on +the other. It was determined to land here, rather than to ascend +the river, because the Patapsco, though broad, is far from deep. +It is, in fact, too shallow to admit a line-of-battle ship; and, +as no one could guess what impediments might be thrown in the way +to obstruct the navigation, prudence forbade that five thousand +men should be intrusted to the convoy of the smaller vessels +alone. Besides, the distance from the point to Baltimore did not +exceed fourteen or fifteen miles, a space which might easily be +traversed in a day. + +But while the land forces moved in this direction upon Baltimore, it +was resolved that the frigates and bomb-ships should endeavour to +force their way through every obstacle, and to obtain possession of +the navigation of the river, so as, if possible, to co-operate with +the army by bombarding the place from the water. A frigate was +accordingly dispatched to try the depth, and to take soundings of the +channel, whilst the remainder of the fleet came to an anchor off the +point. In the meantime all was again bustle and preparation on board +the troop-ships and transports. Three days' provisions were cooked, as +before, and given to the men; and as we were now to carry everything +by a coup-de-main, twenty rounds of ammunition were added to the sixty +with which soldiers are usually loaded; whilst a smaller quantity of +other baggage was directed to be taken on shore. A blanket, with a +spare shirt and pair of shoes, was considered enough for each man on +an expedition of so rapid a nature; whilst brushes and other articles +of that description were divided between comrades, one carrying what +would suffice for both. Thus the additional load of twenty cartridges +was more than counterbalanced by the clothing and necessaries left +behind. + +It was dusk when we reached the anchorage, consequently no +landing could take place before the morrow. But as the boats +were ordered to be in readiness at dawn, every man slept in his +clothes, that he might be prepared to start at a moment's +warning. There was something in this state of preparation at +once solemn and exciting. That we should obtain possession of a +place so important as Baltimore without fighting was not to be +expected; and, therefore, this arming and this bustle seemed in +fact to be the prelude to a battle. But no man of the smallest +reflection can look forward to the chance of a sudden and violent +death without experiencing sensations very different from those +which he experiences under any other circumstances. When the +battle has fairly begun, I may say with truth that the feelings +of those engaged are delightful; because they are in fact so many +gamblers playing for the highest stake that can be offered. But +the stir and noise of equipping, and then the calmness and +stillness of expectation, these are the things which force a man +to think. On the other hand, the warlike appearance of +everything about you, the careless faces and rude jokes of the +private soldiers, and something within yourself, which I can +compare to nothing more seemly than the mirth which criminals are +said sometimes to experience and to express previous to their +execution; all these combine to give you a degree of false +hilarity, I had almost said painful from its very excess. It is +an agitation of the nerves, such as we may suppose madmen feel, +which you are inclined to wish removed, though you are not +unwilling to admit that it is agreeable. + +And yet, as if in mockery of these deadly preparations, I do not +recollect to have seen a more heavenly night than the present. +The heat of the day was past, a full clear moon shone brightly in +a sky where not a cloud could be discerned, and a heavy dew +falling appeared to refresh the earth, which had been parched and +burnt up by the sun. We lay at this time within two miles of the +shore, consequently every object there was distinctly visible. +Around us were moored numerous ships, which, breaking the tide as +it flowed gently onwards, produced a ceaseless murmur like the +gushing of a mountain stream. The voices of the sentinels too, +as they relieved one another on the decks, and the occasional +splash of oars, as a solitary boat rowed backwards and forwards +to the Admiral's ship for orders, sounded peculiarly musical in +the perfect stillness of a calm night. Though I am far from +giving the preference, in all respects, to a sailor's life, it +must nevertheless be confessed that it has in it many moments of +exquisite enjoyment, and the present seemed to me to be of the +number. + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MARCH + +BUT the stillness of night soon passed away, and at three o'clock in +the morning every ship in the fleet began to lower her boats, and the +soldiers were roused from their slumbers. The same precautions which +had been formerly used to cover the landing were again adopted, +several gun-brigs laying themselves within cable's length of the +beach, and the leading boats in every division being armed with +carronades, loaded and ready for action. But, as had been the case at +St. Benedict's, they were unnecessary, for the troops reached the +shore without opposition, and leisurely formed in an open field close +to the river. + +It was seven o'clock before the whole army was disembarked and in +order for marching. The same arrangements which had been made on the +late expedition were, as far as circumstances would permit, again +adopted on this. The light brigade, now commanded by Major Jones of +the 4th regiment, led the advance; then followed the artillery, +amounting to six field-pieces and two howitzers, all of them drawn by +horses; next came the second brigade, then the sailors, and last of +all the third brigade. Flank patrols and reconnoitring parties were +likewise sent out; in short, the same admirable dispositions regulated +the present march which had governed our march to Washington. + +The column being put in motion, advanced, without the occurrence +of any incident deserving of notice, for about an hour, when it +arrived at a piece of ground which appeared as if it had been +lately in possession of the enemy. It was a narrow neck of land, +confined between the river on one side, and the head of a creek +on the other, measuring, perhaps, a mile across. From the river +to the creek a breastwork had been begun, and was partly +completed. In front of it there were lines drawn, apparently for +the purpose of marking out the width of a ditch; in some places +the ditch itself was dug, and the commencement of what resembled +an enfilading battery in the centre, showed that a considerable +degree of science had been displayed in the choice of this spot +as a military position. And, in truth, it was altogether such a +position as, if completed, might have been maintained by a +determined force against very superior numbers. Both flanks were +completely protected, not only by water, but by thick wood, while +a gentle eminence in the very middle of the line offered the most +desirable situation for the projecting battery which had been +begun; because a fire from it would have swept the whole, both to +the right and left. In its present state, however, it was +untenable, unless by a force as able to attack as to defend; +consequently the Americans, who acted solely on the defensive, +did wisely in choosing another. + +But the aspect of the ground was such as led us to conclude that +the enemy could not be very distant. The troops were accordingly +halted, that the rear might be well up, and the men fresh and +ready for action. Whilst this was done part of the flank patrol +came in, bringing with them three light-horse men, as prisoners. +These were young gentlemen belonging to a corps of volunteers, +furnished by the town of Baltimore, who had been sent out to +watch our motions, and convey intelligence to the American +General. Being but little accustomed to such service, they had +suffered themselves to be surprised; and, instead of reporting to +their own leader as to the number and dispositions of their +adversaries, they were now catechized by General Ross respecting +the strength and preparations of their friends. From them we +learned that a force of no less than twenty thousand men was +embodied for the defence of Baltimore; but as the accounts of +prisoners are generally over-rated, we took it for granted that +they made their report only to intimidate. + +ATTACK + + +Having rested for the space of an hour, we again moved forward, +but had not proceeded above a mile when a sharp fire of musketry +was heard in front, and shortly afterwards a mounted officer came +galloping to the rear, who desired us to quicken our pace, for +that the advanced guard was engaged. At this intelligence the +ranks were closed, and the troops advanced at a brisk rate, and +in profound silence. The firing still continued, though, from +its running and irregular sound, it promised little else than a +skirmish; but whether it was kept up by detached parties alone, +or by the outposts of a regular army, we could not tell; because, +from the quantity of wood with which the country abounded, and +the total absence of all hills or eminences, it was impossible to +discern what was going on at the distance of half a mile from the +spot where we stood. + +We were already drawing near to the scene of action, when another +officer came at full speed towards us, with horror and dismay in +his countenance, and calling loudly for a surgeon. Every man +felt within himself that all was not right, though none was +willing to believe the whispers of his own terror. But what at +first we would not guess at, because we dreaded it so much, was +soon realized; for the aide-de-camp had scarcely passed, when the +General's horse, without its rider, and with the saddle and +housings stained with blood, came plunging onwards. Nor was much +time given for fearful surmise as to the extent of our +misfortune. In a few moments we reached the ground where the +skirmishing had taken place, and beheld General Ross laid by the +side of the road, under a canopy of blankets, and apparently in +the agonies of death. As soon as the firing began, he had ridden +to the front, that he might ascertain from whence it originated, +and, mingling with the skirmishers, was shot in the side by a +rifleman. The wound was mortal: he fell into the arms of his +aide-de-camp, and lived only long enough to name his wife, and to +commend his family to the protection of his country. He was +removed towards the fleet, but expired before his bearers could +reach the boats. + +It is impossible to conceive the effect which this melancholy +spectacle produced throughout the army. By the courteousness and +condescension of his manners, General Ross had secured the +absolute love of all who served under him, from the highest to +the lowest; and his success on a former occasion, as well as his +judicious arrangements on the present, had inspired every one +with the most perfect confidence in his abilities. His very +error, if error it may be called, in so young a leader--I mean +that diffidence in himself which had occasioned some loss of time +on the march to Washington, appeared now to have left him. His +movements were at once rapid and cautious; nay, his very +countenance indicated a fixed determination, and a perfect +security of success. All eyes were turned upon him as we passed, +and a sort of involuntary groan ran from rank to rank, from the +front to the rear of the column. + +By the fall of our gallant leader, the command now devolved upon +Colonel Brook, of the 44th regiment, an officer of decided +personal courage, but, perhaps, better calculated to lead a +battalion than to guide an army. Being informed of his +unexpected and undesired elevation, he came to the front, and +under him we continued to move on; sorrowful, indeed, but not +dejected. The skirmishing had now ceased, for the American +riflemen were driven in; and in a few minutes we found ourselves +opposite to a considerable force, drawn up with some skill, and +occupying a strong position. Judging from appearances, I should +say that the corps now opposed to us amounted to six or seven +thousand men. They covered a neck of land, very much resembling +that which we had passed; having both flanks defended by little +inland lakes; the whole of their position was well wooded, and in +front of their line was a range of high palings, similar to those +which intersected the field of Bladensburg. About the centre, +though some way advanced, was a farm-house, with its outbuildings +and stack-yard; and near to the right ran the main road. Their +artillery, which could not greatly exceed our own, either in +weight of metal or number of guns, was scattered along the line +of infantry in nearly the same order as had been preserved at +Bladensburg, and their reserve was partly seen, and partly hid by +a thick wood. + +The whole of this country is flat and unbroken. About half a +mile in rear of the enemy's position were some heights, but to +occupy these as they should be occupied would have required a +much greater number of men than the American army could muster. +Their General, therefore, exhibited some judgment in his choice +of ground, but, perhaps, he would have exhibited more had he +declined a pitched battle altogether. Yet, to do him justice, I +repeat that the ground was well chosen; for, besides the covering +of wood which he secured for his own people, he took care to +leave open fields in his front; by which means we were of +necessity exposed to a galling fire, as soon as we came within +range. Of one error, however, he was guilty. Either he did not +possess himself of the farm-house at all, or he suffered it to be +taken from him with very little resistance; for on the arrival of +the column at the ground where it was to form, it was in the +occupation of our advanced guard. He was likewise to blame in +not filling the wood upon our left with skirmishers. In short, +he acted unwisely in merely attempting to repel attacks, without +ever dreaming that the most effectual mode of so doing is to turn +the tables, and attack the assailants. + +As our troops came up they filed off to the right and left, and +drew up just within cannon shot in the following order. The +light brigade, consisting, as I have formerly stated, of the 85th +regiment and the light companies of the other corps, in extended +order, threatened the whole front of the American army. The 21st +remained in column upon the road; the 4th moved off to the right, +and advanced through a thicket to turn the enemy's left; and the +44th, the seamen and marines, formed line in rear of the light +brigade. + +While this formation was going on, the artillery being brought +up, opened upon the American army, and a smart cannonade ensued +on both sides. That our guns were well served I myself can bear +witness; for I saw the Shrapnel shells which were thrown from +them strike among the enemy, and make fearful gaps in the line. +Our rockets likewise began to play, one of which falling short, +lighted upon a haystack in the barn-yard belonging to the +farm-house, and immediately set it on fire. The house itself, +the stables, barns, and outhouses, as well as all the other +stacks, one after another caught the flames, and were quickly in +a state of conflagration; and the smoke and blaze which they +emitted, together with the roar of cannon and flashes of the +guns, produced altogether a very fine effect. + +In the meantime the American artillery was not idle. Pushing +forward two light field-pieces upon the road, they opened a +destructive fire of grape upon the 21st regiment, and such of the +sailors as occupied that point. Three other guns were directed +against our artillery, between which and several of our pieces a +sort of duel was maintained; and the rest played without ceasing +upon the 85th and the light companies, who had lain down while +the other regiments took up their ground. Neither was their +infantry altogether quiet. They marched several strong bodies +from the right to the left, and withdrew others from the left to +the right of their line, though for what end this marching and +countermarching was undertaken I am at a loss to conceive. While +thus fluctuating it was curious to observe their dread of every +spot where a cannon-ball had struck. Having seen the shots fall, +I kept my eye upon one or two places, and perceived that each +company as it drew near to those points hung back; and then +assuming as it were a momentary courage, rushed past, leaving a +vacancy between it and the company which next succeeded. + +All this while the whole of our infantry, except the 4th +regiment, lay or stood in anxious expectation of an order to +advance. This, however, was not given till that corps had +reached the thicket through which it was to make its way; when +Colonel Brook, with his staff, having galloped along the line to +see that all was ready, commanded the signal to be made. The +charge was accordingly sounded, and echoed back from every bugle +in the army, when, starting from the ground where they had lain, +the troops moved on in a cool and orderly manner. A dreadful +discharge of grape and canister shot, of old locks, pieces of +broken muskets, and everything which they could cram into their +guns, was now sent forth from the whole of the enemy's artillery, +and some loss was on our side experienced. Regardless of this, +our men went on without either quickening or retarding their +pace, till they came within a hundred yards of the American +line. As yet not a musket had been fired, nor a word spoken on +either side, but the enemy, now raising a shout, fired a volley +from right to left, and then kept up a rapid and ceaseless +discharge of musketry. Nor were our people backward in replying +to these salutes; for giving them back both their shout and their +volley, we pushed on at double-quick, with the intention of +bringing them to the charge. + +The bayonet is a weapon peculiarly British; at least it is a +weapon which in the hands of a British soldier is irresistible. +Though they maintained themselves with great determination, and +stood to receive our fire till scarcely twenty yards divided us, +the Americans would not hazard a charge. On the left, indeed, +where the 21st advanced in column, it was not without much +difficulty and a severe loss that any attempt to charge could be +made; for in that quarter seemed to be the flower of the enemy's +infantry, as well as the main body of their artillery; towards +the right, however, the day was quickly won. The only thing to +be regretted, indeed, was that the attack had not been for some +time longer deferred; because the Americans were broken and fled, +just as the 4th regiment began to show itself upon the brink of +the water which covered their flank; and before a shallow +part could be discovered, and the troops were enabled to pass, +they had time to escape. + +As soon as their left gave way, the whole American army fell into +confusion; nor do I recollect on any occasion to have witnessed a +more complete rout. Infantry, cavalry, and artillery were +huddled together, without the smallest regard to order or +regularity. The sole object of anxiety seemed to be, which +should escape first from the field of battle; insomuch, that +numbers were actually trodden down by their countrymen in the +hurry of the flight. Yet, in spite of the short duration of the +action, which lasted little more than two hours from its first +commencement, the enemy's loss was severe. They stood in some +respects better than at Bladensburg, consequently we were more +mingled with them when they gave way, and were thus enabled to +secure some prisoners, an event which their more immediate flight +had on the other occasion prevented. In the capture of guns, +however, we were not so fortunate. Their pieces being light, and +well supplied with horses, they contrived to carry off all except +two; both of which would have also escaped but for the shooting +of the leaders. + +I have said that the number of killed and wounded in the American +army was very great; in ours, on the other hand, the casualties +were fewer by far than might have been expected. The 21st and +seamen suffered a good deal, the 85th and light companies a +little; but had our gallant General been spared, we should have +pronounced this a glorious, because a comparatively bloodless +day. In the loss of that one man, however, we felt ourselves +more deeply wounded than if the best battalion in the army had +been sacrificed. + +In following up the flying enemy the same obstacles which +presented themselves at Bladensburg again came in the way. The +thick woods quickly screened the fugitives, and as even our +mounted drivers were wanting, their horses having been taken for +the use of the artillery, no effectual pursuit could be +attempted. We accordingly halted upon the field of battle, of +necessity content with the success which we had obtained; and +having collected the stragglers and called in the pursuers, it +was resolved to pass the night in this situation. Fires were +speedily lighted, and the troops distributed in such a manner as +to secure a tolerable position in case of attack; and the wounded +being removed into two or three houses scattered along the +ground, the victors lay down to sleep under the canopy of heaven. + +Having thus given a distinct and connected detail of this affair, +I shall beg leave to finish the present chapter with one or two +anecdotes, which may not be unamusing. It is said that when +Admiral Cockburn, who accompanied the army, and attended General +Ross with the fidelity of an aide-de-camp, was in the wood where +the latter fell, he observed an American rifleman taking +deliberate aim at him from behind a tree. Instead of turning +aside, or discharging a pistol at the fellow, as any other man +would have done, the brave Admiral, doubling his fist, shook it +at his enemy, and cried aloud, "O you d--d Yankee, I'll give it +you!" upon which the man dropped his musket in the greatest +alarm, and took to his heels. + +It is likewise told of an officer of engineers, that having +overtaken an American soldier, and demanded his arms, the fellow +gave him his rifle very readily, but being ordered to resign a +handsome silver-hilted dagger and silver-mounted cartouch-box, +which graced his side, he refused to comply, alleging that they +were private property, and that, by our own proclamations, +private property should be respected. This was an instance of +low cunning which reminded me of my own adventure with the +squirrel-hunters, and which was attended with equal success. + +One other anecdote, of a different nature, and for the truth of +which I can myself answer, may likewise be related. In strolling +over the field of battle, I came unexpectedly upon a wounded +American, who lay among some bushes with his leg broken. I drew +near to offer him assistance, but on seeing me the wretch +screamed out, and appeared in the greatest alarm; nor was it +without some difficulty that I could persuade him e had nothing +to fear. At last, being convinced that I intended him no harm, +the fellow informed me that it was impressed upon the minds of +the American levies that from the British they might expect no +quarter; and that it was consequently their determination to +give no quarter to the British troops. The fellow might belie +his countrymen, and I hope and believe he did, but such was his +report to me. To convince him of the erroneousness of his +notions, I removed him to one of our hospitals, where his leg was +amputated; and he saw himself, as well as many others of his +wounded comrades, treated with the same attention which was +bestowed upon our own soldiers. + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + +AT an early hour on the 13th the troops were roused from their lairs, +and forming upon the ground, waited till daylight should appear. A +heavy rain had come on about midnight, and now fell with so much +violence, that some precautions were necessary, in order to prevent +the firelocks from being rendered useless by wet. Such of the men as +were fortunate enough to possess leathern cases, wrapped them round +the locks of their muskets, whilst the rest held them in the best +manner they could, under their elbows; no man thinking of himself, but +only how he could best keep his arms in a serviceable condition. + +As soon as the first glimmering of dawn could be discerned, we +moved to the road, and took up our wonted order of march; but +before we pushed forward, the troops were desired to lighten +themselves still further, by throwing off their blankets, which +were to be left under a slender guard till their return. This +was accordingly done; and being now unencumbered, except by a +knapsack almost empty, every man felt his spirits heightened in +proportion to the diminution of his load. The grief of soldiers +is seldom of long duration, and though I will not exactly say +that poor Ross was already forgotten, the success of yesterday +had reconciled at least the privates to the guidance of their new +leader; nor was any other issue anticipated than what would have +attended the excursion had he still been its mainspring and +director. + +The country through which we passed resembled, in every +particular, that already described. Wood and cultivation +succeeded each other at intervals, though the former surpassed +the latter in tenfold extent; but instead of deserted villages +and empty houses, which had met us on the way to Washington, we +found most of the inhabitants remaining peaceably in their homes, +and relying upon the assurance of protection given to them in our +proclamations. Nor had they cause to repent of that confidence. +In no instance were they insulted, plundered, or ill-treated; +whereas every house which was abandoned fell a prey to the scouts +and reconnoitring parties. + +But our march to-day was not so rapid as our motions generally +were. The Americans had at last adopted an expedient which, +if carried to its proper length, might have entirely stopped +our progress. In most of the woods they had felled trees, +and thrown them across the road; but as these abattis were +without defenders, we experienced no other inconvenience than +what arose from loss of time; being obliged to halt on all such +occasions till the pioneers had removed the obstacle. So great, +however, was even this hinderance, that we did not come in sight +of the main army of the Americans till evening, although the +distance travelled could not exceed ten miles. + +It now appeared that the corps which we had beaten yesterday was only +a detachment, and not a large one, from the force collected for the +defence of Baltimore; and that the account given by the volunteer +troopers was in every respect correct. Upon a ridge of hills, which +concealed the town itself from observation, stood the grand army, +consisting of twenty thousand men. Not trusting to his superiority in +numbers, their General had there entrenched them in the most +formidable manner, having covered the whole face of the heights with +breastworks, thrown back his left so as to rest it upon a strong fort +erected for the protection of the river, and constructed a chain of +field redoubts which covered his right and commanded the entire +ascent. Along the side of the hill were likewise fleches and other +projecting works, from which a cross fire might be kept up; and there +were mounted throughout this commanding position no less than one +hundred pieces of cannon. + +It would be absurd to suppose that the sight of preparations so +warlike did not in some degree damp the ardour of our leader; at +least it would have been madness to storm such works without +pausing to consider how it might best be attempted. The whole of +the country within cannon-shot was cleared from wood, and laid +out in grass and corn-fields; consequently there was no cover to +shelter an attacking army from any part of the deadly fire which +would be immediately poured upon it. The most prudent plan, +therefore, was to wait till dark; and then, assisted by the +frigates and bombs, which he hoped were by this time ready to +co-operate, to try the fortune of a battle. + +Having resolved thus to act, Colonel Brook halted his army; +and, secured against surprise by a well-connected line of piquets, +the troops were permitted to light fires and to cook their +provisions. But though the rain still fell in torrents, no +shelter could be obtained; and as even their blankets were no +longer at hand, with which to form gipsy-tents, this was the +reverse of an agreeable bivouac to the whole army. + +Darkness had now come on, and as yet no intelligence had +arrived from the shipping. To assail such a position, however, +without the aid of the fleet, was deemed impracticable; at least +our chance of success would be greatly diminished without their +co-operation. As the left of the American army extended to a +fort built upon the very brink of the river, it was clear that +could the ships be brought to bear upon that point, and the fort +be silenced by their fire, that flank of the position would be +turned. This once effected, there would be no difficulty in +pushing a column within their works; and as soldiers entrenched +always place more reliance upon the strength of their +entrenchments than upon their own personal exertions, the very +sight of our people on a level with them would in all probability +decide the contest. At all events, as the column was to advance +under cover of night, it might easily push forward and crown the +hill above the enemy, before any effectual opposition could be +offered; by which means they would be enclosed between two fires, +and lose the advantage which their present elevated situation +bestowed. All, however, depended upon the ability of the fleet +to lend their assistance; for without silencing the fort, this +flank could scarcely be assailed with any chance of success, +and, therefore, the whole plan of operations must be changed. + +SEARCH. + +Having waited till it was considered imprudent to wait longer, +without knowing whether he was to be supported, Colonel Brook +determined, if possible, to open a communication with the fleet. +That the river could not be far off we knew, but how to get to it +without falling in with wandering parties of the enemy was the +difficulty. The thing, however, must be done; and as secrecy, +and not force, was the main object, it was resolved to dispatch +for the purpose a single officer without an escort. On this +service a particular friend of mine chanced to be employed. +Mounting his horse, he proceeded to the right of the army, where, +having delayed a few minutes till the moon rising gave light +enough through the clouds to distinguish objects, he pushed +forward at a venture, in as straight a line as he could guess at. +It was not long before his progress was stopped by a high hedge. +Like knight-errants of old, he then gave himself up to the +guidance of his horse, which taking him towards the rear, soon +brought him into a narrow lane, that appeared to wind in the +direction of the enemy's fort: this lane he determined to follow, +and holding a cocked pistol in his hand, pushed on, not perhaps +entirely comfortable, but desirous at all hazards of executing +his commission. He had not ridden far, when the sound of voices +through the splashing of the rain arrested his attention. +Pulling up, he listened in silence, and soon discovered that they +came from two American soldiers, whether stragglers or sentinels +it was impossible to divine; but whoever they were, they seemed +to be approaching. It now struck him that his safest course +would be to commence the attack, and having therefore waited till +he saw them stop short, as if they had perceived him, he rode +forward, and called out to them to surrender. The fellows turned +and fled, but galloping after them, he overtook one, at whose +head he presented a pistol, and who instantly threw down his +rifle, and yielded himself prisoner; whilst the other, dashing +into a thicket, escaped, probably to tell that he had been +attacked by a whole regiment of British cavalry. Having thus +taken a prisoner, my friend resolved to make him of some use; +with this view he commanded him to lay hold of his thigh, and to +guide him directly to the river, threatening, if he attempted to +mislead or betray him into the hands of the Americans, that he +would instantly blow out his brains. Finding himself completely +in my friend's power, the fellow could not refuse to obey; and +accordingly, the man resting his hand upon the left thigh of the +officer, they proceeded along the lane for some time, till they +came to a part where it branched off in two directions. My +friend here stopped for a moment; and again repeated his threat, +swearing that the instant his conduct became suspicious should be +the last of his life. The soldier assured him that he would keep +his word, and moreover informed him that some of our ships were +almost within gun-shot of the fort; a piece of information which +was quickly confirmed by the sound of firing, and the appearance +of shells in the air. They now struck to the right, and in half +an hour gained the brink of the river: where my friend found a +party just landed from the squadron, and preparing to seek their +way towards the camp. By them he was conducted to the Admiral, +from whom he learnt that no effectual support could be given to +the land force; for such was the shallowness of the river, that +none except the very lightest craft could make their way within +six miles of the town; and even these were stopped by vessels +sunk in the channel, and other artificial bars, barely within a +shell's longest range of the fort. With this unwelcome news he +was accordingly forced to return; and taking his unwilling guide +along with him, he made his way, without any adventure, to our +advanced posts; where, having thanked the fellow for his +fidelity, he rewarded it more effectually by setting him at +liberty. + +Having brought his report to head-quarters, a council of war was +instantly summoned to deliberate upon what was best to be done. +Without the help of the fleet, it was evident that, adopt what +plan of attack we could, our loss must be such as to +counterbalance even success itself; whilst success, under +existing circumstances, was, to say the least of it, doubtful. +And even if we should succeed, what would be gained by it? We +could not remove anything from Baltimore, for want of proper +conveyances. Had the ships been able to reach the town, then, +indeed, the quantity of booty might have repaid the survivors for +their toil, and consoled them for the loss of comrades; but as +the case now stood, we should only fight to give us an +opportunity of reacting /re-enacting?/ the scenes of Washington. +To distress an enemy is, no doubt, desirable, but, in the present +instance, that distress, even if brought upon the Americans, +would cost us dear; whereas, if we failed, it was hardly possible +to avoid destruction. + +MARCH. + +Such was the reasoning which influenced the council of war to +decide that all idea of storming the enemy's lines should be +given up. To draw them from their works would require +manoeuvring, and manoeuvring requires time; but delays were all +in their favour, and could not possibly advantage us. Every hour +brought in reinforcements to their army, whereas ours had no +source from which even to recruit its losses; and it was, +therefore, deemed prudent, since we could not fight at once, +to lose no time in returning to the shipping. + +About three hours after midnight the troops were accordingly +formed upon the road, and began their retreat, leaving the +piquets to deceive the enemy, and to follow, as a rear-guard. +The rain, which had continued with little interruption since the +night before, now ceased, and the moon shone out bright and +clear. We marched along, therefore, not in the same spirits as +if we had been advancing, but feeling no debasement at having +thus relinquished an enterprise so much beyond our strength. + +When the day broke, our piquets, which had withdrawn about an +hour before, rejoined us, and we went on in a body. Marching +over the field where the battle of the 12th had been fought, we +beheld the dead scattered about, and still unburied; but so far +different from those which we had seen at Bladensburg, that they +were not stripped, every man lying as he had fallen. One object, +however, struck me as curious. I saw several men hanging +lifeless among the branches of trees, and learnt that they had +been riflemen, who chose, during the battle, to fix themselves in +these elevated situations, for the combined purposes of securing +a good aim and avoiding danger. Whatever might be their success +in the first of these designs, in the last they failed; for our +men soon discovered them, and, considering the thing as unfair, +refused to give them quarter, and shot them on their perches. + +Here we paused for about an hour, that the soldiers might collect +their blankets and refresh themselves; when we again moved +forward, passing the wood where the gallant Ross was killed. It +was noon, and as yet all had gone on smoothly with out any check +or alarm. So little indeed was pursuit dreamt of, that the +column began to straggle, and to march without much regard to +order; when suddenly the bugle sounded from the rear, and +immediately after some musket shots were heard. In an instant +the men were in their places, and the regiments wheeled into +line, facing towards the enemy. The artillery turned round and +advanced to the front; indeed I have never seen a manoeuvre more +coolly or more steadily performed on a parade in England than +this rally. The alarm, however, turned out to be groundless, +being occasioned only by the sudden appearance of a squadron of +horse, which had been sent out by the American General to track +our steps. These endeavoured to charge the rear-guard, and +succeeded in making two prisoners; but a single Shrapnel checked +their farther advance, and sent them back at full speed to boast +of the brave exploit which they had performed. + +Seeing that no attack was seriously intended, the army broke once +more into the line of march, and proceeded to a favourable piece +of ground, near the uncompleted position which I have already +described, where we passed the night under little tents made with +blankets and ramrods. No alarm occurring, nor any cause of delay +appearing, at daybreak we again got under arms, and pushed on +towards the shipping, which in two hours were distinguishable. + +RE-EMBARKATION. + +The infantry now halted upon a narrow neck of land, while the +artillery was lifted into boats, and conveyed on board the fleet. +As soon as this was done, brigade after brigade fell back to the +water's edge and embarked, till finally all, except the light +troops, were got off. These being left to cover the embarkation, +were extended across the entire space which but a little before +contained the whole army; but as no attempt was made to molest +them, they had only the honour of being the last to quit the +shore. + +Were I to enter into a review of the military proceedings in this +expedition, I should be condemned to repeat, almost word for +word, the remarks which I ventured to make upon the operations +previous to the capture of Washington. On the present occasion, +however, neither hesitation nor precipitancy was displayed by the +British General. He threw his valuable life away, indeed, by +exposing his person unnecessarily in a trifling skirmish; but who +will blame a soldier for excess of courage, or a leader for +excess of alertness? Like other able men, he was unwilling to +trust to the report of his subalterns, when it was in his power +to ascertain what he sought to know by personal observation; and, +like other brave men, he would not be deterred from prosecuting +his design by the apprehension of danger. In the plan of the +expedition here, he displayed both skill and resolution. +Instead of wasting time by an attempt to ascend the river, he +chose to land where he was least likely to meet with immediate +opposition; and such was the celerity of his motions, that, had +he lived, the chances are that we should have fought two battles +in one day. But of what a man might have done, I have nothing to +say; let me rather do justice to his successor and his advisers. +Of these latter, there is one whom it would be improper not to +mention by name--I mean Lieutenant Evans, Deputy-Assistant +Quartermaster-General. The whole arrangement of our troops in +order of battle was committed to him; and the judicious method in +which they were drawn up, proved that he was not unworthy of the +trust. With respect to the determination of the council of war, +I choose to be silent. Certain it is, that the number of our +forces would hardly authorise any desperate attempt; yet had the +attempt been made, I have very little doubt that it would have +been made successfully. + +On the part of the Americans, again, the same blunders were +committed which marked their proceedings during the incursion to +Washington, with this exception, that more science was displayed +now than formerly in the distribution of their forces along their +principal position. At Bladensburg, indeed, there existed no +works, and the troops were badly arranged in an open country: +here there were not only fortifications, but fortifications +constructed in a scientific manner, and troops drawn up in such +order, as that, even without their works, many cross fires would +have protected their front. But they neglected numerous +favourable opportunities of harassing both our advance and +retreat. They felled trees, but left no guards to keep them from +being removed, and took no advantage of the delays which their +removal created. They risked a battle with a part of their army, +when there was no necessity for it; in a word, they committed all +those errors which men generally commit who are not soldiers, and +yet love war. + + +CHAPTER XV + + +THE PATUXENT. + +HAVING once more received the troops on board, the fleet remained +quietly at anchor till the 17th, when, at an early hour, we set +sail and stood towards the Patuxent. In this voyage we passed +close to Sent Island, and again threw the inhabitants of Anapolis +into alarm by approaching almost within gun-shot of their town; +but at neither place were hostilities attempted, and on the 19th +we arrived, without any adventure, at our former anchorage in the +river. Here we brought up, and parties were sent on shore to dig +wells in the sand, to which the boats resorted in great numbers +for water. Cattle and sheep were likewise purchased from the +natives; some of the flour which had been captured was converted +into biscuit; and every preparation seemed to be making for a +long voyage. + +To facilitate these operations, the fleet now separated, part +remaining here, and part proceeding under Admiral Malcolm to the +Potomac; whilst Sir Alexander Cochrane, in the Tonnant, with +several frigates and gun-brigs, quitted us altogether, and set +sail, as it was given out, for Halifax. But our situation was by +no means agreeable. The climate of this part of America is, at +certain seasons, far from healthy; and the prevalence of +dysentery through the armament proved that the unhealthy season +had already commenced. Neither did there appear to be any +prospect of further employment. No one talked of a future +enterprise, nor was the slightest rumour circulated as to the +next point of attack. The death of General Ross seemed to have +disorganized the whole plan of proceedings, and the fleet and +army rested idle, like a watch without its main spring. + +Whilst things were in this state, whilst the banks of the rivers +continued in our possession, and the interior was left unmolested +to the Americans, a rash confidence sprang up in the minds of +all, insomuch that parties of pleasure would frequently land +without arms, and spend many hours onshore. On one of these +occasions, several officers from the 85th regiment agreed to pass +a day together at a farm-house, about a quarter of a mile from +the stream; and taking with them ten soldiers, unarmed, to row +the boat, a few sailors, and a young midshipman, not more than +twelve years of age, they proceeded to put their determination +into practice. Leaving the men, under the command of their +youthful pilot, to take care of the boat, the officers went on to +the house; but they had not remained there above an hour, when +they were alarmed by a shout, which sounded as if it came from +the river. Looking, out, they beheld their party surrounded by +seventy or eighty mounted riflemen; the boat dragged upon the +beach, and set on fire. Giving themselves up for lost, they +continued for an instant in a sort of stupor; but the master of +the house, to whom some kindness had been shown by our people, +proved himself grateful, and, letting them out by a back door, +directed them to bide themselves in the wood, whilst he should +endeavour to turn their pursuers on a wrong scent. As they had +nothing to trust to except the honour of this American, it cannot +be supposed that they felt much at ease; but, seeing no better +course before them, they resigned themselves to his guidance, and +plunging into the thicket, concealed themselves as well as they +could among the underwood. In the mean time the American +soldiers, having secured all that were left behind, except the +young midshipman, who fled into the wood in spite of their fire, +divided into two bodies, one of which approached the house, +whilst the other endeavoured to overtake the brave boy. It so +chanced that the party in pursuit passed close to the officers in +concealment, but by the greatest good fortune failed to observe +them. They succeeded, however, in catching a glimpse of the +midshipman, just as he had gained the water's edge, and was +pushing off a light canoe which he had loosened from the stump of +a tree. The barbarians immediately gave chase, firing at the +brave lad, and calling out to surrender; but the gallant youth +paid no attention either to their voices or their bullets. +Launching his little bark, he put to sea with a single paddle, +and, regardless of the showers of balls which fell about him, +returned alone and unhurt to the ship. Whilst one party was thus +employed, the other hastened to the house in full expectation of +capturing the British officers. But their host kept his word +with great fidelity, and, having directed his countrymen towards +another farm-house at some distance from his own, and in an +opposite quarter from the spot where his guests lay, he waited +till they were out of sight, and then joined his new friends in +their lurking-place. Bringing with him such provisions as he +could muster, he advised them to keep quiet till dark, when, +their pursuers having departed, he conducted them to the river, +supplied them with a large canoe, and sent them off in perfect +safety to the fleet. + +On reaching their ship, they found the 85th regiment under arms, +and preparing to land, for the purpose of either releasing their +comrades from captivity, or inflicting exemplary punishment upon +the farmer by whose treachery it was supposed that they had +suffered. But when the particulars of his behaviour were +related, the latter alternative was at once abandoned; and it was +determined to force a dismissal of the captives, by advancing up +the country, and laying waste every thing with fire and sword. +The whole of the light brigade was accordingly carried on shore, +and halted on the beach, whilst a messenger was sent forward to +demand back the prisoners. Such, however, was the effect of his +threatening, that the demand was at once complied with, and they +returned on board without having committed any ravages, or +marched above two miles from the boats. + +THE POTOMAC + +Besides this trifling debarkation, another little excursion was +made by the second and third brigades, the light troops being +left most unaccountably on board of ship, Colonel Brook, having +heard that an encampment was formed a few miles from the left +bank of the Potomac, determined, if possible, to come up with and +engage the force there stationed. With this view, two brigades +were landed on the night of the 4th of October, and pushed +forward at a brisk pace; but the enemy, being on the alert, had +timely notice of the movement, and retired; by which means our +people returned on the 5th, without effecting anything. + +THE CHESAPEAKE. + +By this time the whole fleet was once more collected together; +and crowded the Potomac with their keels. The Diadem being an +old slip and a bad sailer, it was determined to remove from her +the troops which she had formerly carried, to fill her with +American prisoners, and to send her to England. The Menelaus was +likewise dispatched with such officers and soldiers as required +the benefit of their native air to complete the cure of their +wounds; and the rest, getting under weigh on the 6th, stood +directly towards the mouth of the Chesapeake. When we reached +the James River, we anchored, and were joined by an American +schooner bearing a flag of truce. She brought with her Colonel +Thornton, Lieut. Colonel Wood, with the rest of the officers and +men who had been left behind at Bladensburg, and, being under the +guidance of Commodore Barney, that gentleman was enabled to +discharge his trust even to the very letter. + +It may readily be supposed that the meeting between friends thus +restored to each other was very agreeable. But there was another +source of comfort which this arrival communicated, of greater +importance than the pleasure bestowed upon individuals. In +Colonel Thornton we felt that we had recovered a dashing and +enterprising officer; one as well calculated to lead a corps of +light troops, and to guide the advance of an army, as any in the +service. On the whole, therefore, the American schooner was as +welcome as if she had been a first-rate man-of-war filled with +reinforcements from England. + +The wounded being now sent off, and Colonel Wood among the +number, the remainder of the fleet again set sail, and reached +the mouth of the bay without interruption. Here they were met by +a frigate and two brigs, which spoke to the Admiral, and +apparently communicated some important intelligence; for we +immediately put about and stood once more up the Chesapeake. The +wind, however, blew with great violence, and directly against us. +After beating about, therefore, for some time, without making any +progress, we turned our heads towards the ocean, and flying +between the Capes with amazing velocity, stood out to sea, +directing our course towards the S.S.E., and proceeding at the +rate of seven miles an hour under bare poles. The sea ran +tremendously high, and the sky was dark and dreary; insomuch that +by a landsman the gale might safely be accounted a storm. Under +these circumstances, the ship rolling as if she would dip her +topmasts in the water, and the waves breaking in at the back +windows of the cabin, nothing remained to be done but to go to +bed. Thither most of us accordingly repaired, and holding +ourselves in our berths by clinging to the posts, we amused +ourselves by watching the motions of stools, books, trunks, and +other articles, as they floated majestically from one side of the +cabin to the other. But the effects of the gale were not in +every respect ludicrous. Two small schooners, which had been +captured at Alexandria and converted into tenders, foundered and +went down, without an opportunity being afforded of saving an +individual of their crews. + +AT SEA. + +At length the wind began to moderate, and on the 18th there was a +dead calm. In point of comfort, however, I cannot say that much +change was experienced; for though the gale had ceased, the swell +still continued; and the motion produced by a heavy sea after a +storm is even more disagreeable than that occasioned by the storm +itself. But on this day the minds of all were set at ease as to +the place whither we were going, a telegraph signal being made to +steer for Jamaica. It was likewise understood that we should be +there joined by strong reinforcements, and proceed upon a secret +expedition against some place on the southern borders of the +United States. + +The calm which had succeeded the storm did not last long, for on +the 19th a fair breeze sprang up, and sent us at a moderate and +agreeable rate upon our course. The heat, however, was most +oppressive; even awnings being unable to afford sufficient +shelter. We were fast approaching the tropic of Cancer, and +every day experienced a greater degree of sultriness; till at +length, on the 25th, we crossed that imaginary boundary. Here we +were visited, according to custom, by Neptune and his wife; and +as the ceremony of shaving may be unknown to some of my readers, +I shall beg leave to relate the particulars of that operation. + +A clever active seaman, dressed up grotesquely in party-coloured +rags, adorned with a long beard made of the stuff which sailors +call spun-yarn, and armed with a tri-pronged harpoon, personates +the God of the Ocean. Another seaman, arrayed in like manner, +except that, instead of a beard, he wears a hideous mask, +performs the part of the lady. These are attended by a troop of +sea-gods and nymphs, similarly equipped; and advancing from the +bow of the vessel, as if just stepped on board, they come forward +to the mainmast, and summon before them all such persons as have +never sworn the oaths or previously visited their capital. At +the foot of the mast is placed a large tub full of sea-water, and +covered by a piece of canvas, which is held tight by four of +their attendants. Upon this unsteady throne is the luckless +wight, whom they design to initiate, compelled to sit; and being +asked several questions, which he cannot answer, and taking +several oaths, very much resembling those said to be administered +at Highgate, Neptune proceeds to confer upon him the honour of +filiation, by rather an extraordinary process. Two of the +sea-nymphs, generally tall stout fellows, pinion his arms to his +sides; and another, bringing a bucket filled with grease and +slops from the kitchen, sets it down at his godship's feet, +putting a small painting-brush into his hand. Neptune now dips +his brush into the filth, and proceeds to spread a lather over +the face of the novice, taking care to ask questions during the +whole process; and if the adopted be simple enough to reply, the +brush is instantly thrust into his mouth. As soon as a +sufficient quantity of grease is laid upon the face, Neptune +seizes a piece of rusty iron, generally the broken hoop of some +water-cask, with which he scrapes off all that has been applied. +If the novice take all this patiently, his face is washed, and he +is permitted to descend from his throne in peace; but if he lose +his temper, which most men are apt to do, a bucket of sea-water +is poured upon his head. If this be sufficient to cool his +wrath, he suffers no more; but if it only increase his +indignation, bucket after bucket is emptied over him, and at +last, the holders of the sail-cloth suddenly retiring, he is +plunged overhead into the tub. To crown all, the unfortunate +wretch who has endured these miseries is fined by his tormentor +in a gallon of ruin; a fine which the force of custom compels him +to pay. It must be confessed that this is a barbarous amusement, +much resembling that of the boys in the fable of the boys and the +frogs. Though very agreeable to those who act and to the lookers +on, it is not so to him that suffers. + +In this manner many persons were treated, till at length Neptune, +growing weary from the number of novices, was content to admit +the rest to the privileges of initiation, on condition that the +fines should be punctually paid; an agreement into which most of +us very thankfully entered. + +THE WEST INDIES. + +Next morning, the first object which met our eyes was the land of +Caycos island. We were so close to the shore, when daylight +discovered it, that had the wind been at all adverse we must +unquestionably have struck; but being assisted by a fair and +gentle breeze, the ships put about immediately, and escaped the +danger. Standing out to sea, the fleet now doubled the +promontory, and steering round by the other side, sailed on +without losing sight of the land till late in the evening. + +On the following day, a signal was made from the Admiral's ship, +that the Golden Fleece transport, under convoy of the Volcano +bomb, should proceed to Port Royal, whilst the rest of the fleet +held their course towards Negril Bay. These two vessels +accordingly set all sail, and pushed forward by themselves; the +others keeping on at a more moderate rate, that none might stray +from the convoy: for the West India seas at this time swarmed +with American privateers, and it was of great consequence to keep +the store-ships and heavy transports in the middle of the +squadron. + +It so chanced that I took my passage in one of the two ships +which proceeded forward by themselves. The wind was fair, and we +made great progress, insomuch that before dark the high land of +St. Domingo on one side, and the mountains of Cuba on the other, +were discernible. In spite of the heat, therefore, our voyage +soon became truly delightful. Secure of getting on under the +influence of the trade winds, we had nothing to distract our +thoughts, or keep us from feasting our eyes upon the glorious +shores of these two islands; whilst in addition to the sight of +land, which of itself was cheering, we were amused with +water-spouts, apparently playing about us in every direction. +One of these, however, began to form within a little distance of +the ship, and as they are dangerous as well as interesting, a +cannon was got ready to break it before it should reach us. But +it did not complete its formation, though I cannot tell why; for, +after one spout had risen into the air some height, and another +bent down from the clouds to meet it, they were suddenly carried +away in different directions, and fell into the sea with the +noise of a cataract. + +Among other sources of amusement, our attention was drawn, on the +29th, to a shark, which made its appearance at the stern of the +vessel. A strong hook was immediately prepared, and baited with +a piece of salt pork, which being thrown over, was instantly +gulped by the voracious monster. But as soon as he felt the pain +occasioned by the book in his jaws, he plunged towards the bottom +of the sea with such violence, as to render the very tafferel +hot, by the rapidity of the cord gliding over it. Having +permitted him to go a certain length, he was again hauled up to +the surface, where he remained without offering further +resistance, till a boat was lowered, and a strong noose thrown +over his head. Being thus made fast to the gunwale of the boat, +he was brought round to the gangway, when the end of the noose +being cast over the main-yard, he was lifted out of the sea and +swung upon the ship's deck. Hitherto he had suffered quietly +enough, in apparent stupefaction from the pain of his jaw; but he +began now to convince us that neither life nor strength had +deserted him; lashing his tail with such violence as speedily to +clear the quarter-deck, and biting in the most furious manner at +everything within his reach. One of the sailors, however, who +seemed to understand these matters more than his comrades, took +an axe, and watching his opportunity, at one, blow chopped off +his tail. He was now perfectly harmless, unless, indeed, one had +chosen to thrust one's hand into his mouth; and the same sailor +accordingly proceeded to lay him open, and to take out his +entrails. And now it was that the tenacity of life, peculiar to +these animals, displayed itself. After his heart and bowels were +taken out; the shark still continued to exhibit proofs of +animation, by biting with as much force as ever at a bag of +carpenter's tools that happened to lie within his reach. + +Being cut up, he was distributed in portions among the soldiers +and the ship's crew. The tail part only was reserved as the +chief delicacy for our cabin, which, though dry and hard, with +little flavour or taste, was on the present occasion considered +as agreeable food, because it was fresh. + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + +BUT what I principally relished, in this part of our voyage, was +the exquisite beauty of its night-scenery. To an inhabitant of +Great Britain, the splendour of a night-scene in these climates +is altogether unknown. Shining broad and full in a sky perfectly +cloudless, the moon sends forth a clear and mellow lustre, little +inferior, in point of brilliancy, to the full twilight in +England. By this means you never lose sight of land, either by +night or day, as long as your course lies between Cuba and St. +Domingo; whilst the delicious coolness, which follows the setting +of the sun, tempts you, in spite of all the whispers of prudence, +to expose yourself to dews and damps, rather than forego the +pleasures of which they are the bane. Besides, you have +constantly the satisfaction of observing yourself move steadily +on at the most agreeable of all rates, about five or six miles an +hour; a satisfaction far from trifling in a sea-life. Then the +ocean is so smooth, that scarcely a ripple is seen to break the +moon-beams as they fall; whilst the quiet dash of little waves +against the ship's side, and the rushing noise occasioned by the +moving of her bow through the water, produce altogether an effect +which may, without affectation, be termed absolutely refreshing. +It was my common practice to sit for hours after night-fall upon +the tafferel, and strain my eyes in the attempt to distinguish +objects on shore or strange sails in the distance. + +It happened that, on the 30th, I was tempted to indulge in this +idle but bewitching employment, even beyond my usual hour for +retiring, and did not quit the deck till towards two o'clock in +the morning of the 31st. I had just entered my cabin, and was +beginning to undress, when a cry from above, of an enemy in +chase, drew me instantly to the quarter-deck. On looking astern, +I perceived a vessel making directly after us, and was soon +convinced of the justice of the alarm, by a shot which whistled +over our heads. All hands were now called to quarters, the small +sails were taken in, and having spoken to our companion, and made +an agreement as to position, both ships cleared for action. But +the stranger, seeing his signal obeyed with so much alacrity, +likewise slackened sail, and, continuing to keep us in view, +followed our wake without approaching nearer. In this state +things continued till daybreak, we still holding our course, and +he hanging back; but as soon as it was light, he set more sail +and ran to windward, moving just out of gun-shot, in a parallel +direction with us. It was now necessary to fall upon some plan +of deceiving him, otherwise there was little probability that he +would attack. In the bomb, indeed, the height of the bulwark +served to conceal some of the men; but in the transport no such +screen existed. The troops were, therefore, ordered below, and +only the sailors, a few blacks, and the officers, kept the deck. +The same expedient was likewise adopted, in part, by Captain +Price, of the Volcano; and in order to give to his ship a still +greater resemblance than it already had to a merchantman, he +displayed an old faded scarlet ensign, and drew up his fore and +mainsail in what sailors term a lubberly manner. + +As yet the stranger had shown no colours, but, from her build and +rigging, there was little doubt as to her country. She was a +beautiful schooner, presenting seven ports on a side, and +apparently crowded with men, circumstances which immediately led +us to believe that she was an American privateer. The Volcano, +on the other hand, was a clumsy strong-built ship, carrying +twelve guns; and the Golden Fleece mounted eight; so that, in +point of artillery, the advantage was rather on our side; but the +American's sailing was so much superior to that of either of us, +that this advantage was more than counterbalanced. + +Having dodged us till eight o'clock, and reconnoitred with great +exactness, the stranger began to steer gradually nearer and +nearer, till at length it was judged that she had arrived within +range. A gun was accordingly fired from the Volcano, and another +from the transport, the balls from both of which passed over her +and fell into the sea. Finding herself thus assaulted, she +instantly threw off her disguise, and hung out an American +ensign; when, putting her helm up, she poured a broadside, with a +volley of musketry, into the transport; and ran alongside of the +bomb, which sailed to windward. + +As soon as her flag was displayed, and her intention of attacking +discerned, all hands were ordered up, and she received two +well-directed broadsides from the Volcano, as well as a warm +salute from the Golden Fleece. But such was the celerity of her +motion, that she was alongside of the bomb in less time than can +be imagined; and actually dashing her bow against the other, +attempted to carry her by boarding. Captain Price, however, was +ready to receive them. The boarders were at their posts in an +instant, and the enemy discovering, when it was too late, the +mistake into which he had fallen, left about twenty of his men +upon the Volcano's bowsprit, all of whom were thrown into the +sea; and filling his sails, sheered off with the same speed with +which he had borne down. In attempting to escape, he unavoidably +fell somewhat to leeward, and exposed the whole of his deck to +the fire of the transport. A tremendous discharge of musketry +saluted him as he passed; and it was almost laughable to witness +the haste with which his crew hurried below, leaving none upon +deck except such as were absolutely wanted to work his vessel. + +The Volcano had by this time filled, and gave chase, firing with +great precision at the privateer's yards and rigging, in the hope +of disabling him. But as fortune would have it, none of his +important ropes or yards were cut; and we had the mortification +to see him, in a few minutes, beyond our reach. + +In this affair, a marine officer and two men were killed on board +the bomb; and some of the tackling was shot away. The transport +suffered nothing in killed or wounded, having been in a great +degree protected from the enemy's fire by her commodore; and only +one rope, not, I believe, an important one, was destroyed. + +The battle having ended, and the chase being given up as +fruitless, we continued our course without any other adventure; +and before dark were able to distinguish the blue mountains of +Jamaica. St. Domingo and Cuba had both disappeared, and this +was now the only land visible; but it was not till the 1st of +November that we could obtain a distinct view of it. Then, +indeed, we found ourselves within a few miles of the shore, and +seldom has landscape appeared more attractive to the eyes of a +voyager, than the romantic shores of Jamaica now appeared to ours. + +Jamaica is in general a bold and mountainous island, but on this +side it is peculiarly so. It appeared to me that even the +Pyrenees, magnificent as they are, were not to be compared, in +point of altitude, to the hills now before me; and early in the +morning, while yet the mists hung upon their summits and +concealed them, no prospect can be imagined more sublime than +that which they presented. It was, in truth, a glorious scene; +and as the wind blew light and uncertain, we were permitted, from +the slowness of the ship's progress, to enjoy it to the full. +Towards evening, indeed, the breeze died entirely away, which +compelled us to anchor about eight miles from the harbour of Port +Royal. + +PORT ROYAL. + +In spite of the little rest which I had procured during the two +preceding nights, having sat up till an early hour this morning, +to watch several strange sails that hovered about us, I could not +bring myself to quit the deck till after midnight, so beautiful, +in all respects, were the objects around me. The moon shone with +her accustomed brilliancy, and exhibited every crag and tree upon +the land, changed and confounded in shape, but still plainly; +whilst the perfume, borne off upon the breeze, was odoriferous in +the highest degree. The sound of the waves, likewise, breaking +upon the rocks, and the occasional cry of seamen, as they +adjusted ropes and sails, together with the sight of several +vessels which took advantage of the night-wind and stood to sea, +with canvas glittering in the moonbeams, produced so delightful a +combination, as completely riveted me to my seat; nor was it +without much reluctance that I at length yielded to the drowsy +god, and descended to my cabin. + +Next morning, the ship got under weigh at an early hour, but, +owing to the unsteadiness of the breeze, it was ten o'clock +before we made any satisfactory progress. As we approached the +bay which forms the harbour of Port Royal, a novel and pleasing +sight presented itself. The hills dying gradually away, gave +place to gentle slopes and green knolls, till, towards the +entrance, the coast became perfectly level. Pushing forward, we +soon found ourselves in a narrow channel between two projecting +headlands, beautifully ornamented with cocoa-nut trees, and so +near to each other, that I could with ease have thrown a biscuit +from the ship's deck upon either. At the extremity of these +necks, just where the bay begins its sweep, stand two well-built +forts, bristling with cannon; and at the opposite side may be +seen a third, ready to sink whatever hostile fleet should be +fortunate enough to force an entrance. But these were not the +most striking parts of the scene. The water in this strait is +remarkably clear, and exhibits with great distinctness the tops +and chimneys of houses at the bottom. It will be recollected, +that many years ago, an earthquake not only demolished great part +of the town of Port Royal, but likewise covered it with the sea; +by which means, the site of the harbour was completely changed, +and that which was formerly dry land, and a town, became part of +the entrance of the bay. + +Having doubled the promontories, a rich and extensive prospect +meets the eye. You find yourself, as it were, in a large inland +lake, the banks of which are covered with plantations of sugar +cane, groves of cocoa-nut and plantain trees, and other woods +peculiar to these regions, beautifully interspersed with seats +and villages. On your right is the town of Port Royal, lying +almost on a level with the water, and strongly protected by +fortifications, whilst in various other directions are castles +and batteries, adding an appearance of security to that of +plenty. The banks, though not lofty, slope gently upwards, +with occasional falls or glens, and the background is composed +in general of the rugged tops of distant mountains. + +Having waited till the ship dropped anchor, I put myself into a a +sort of barge rowed by four negroes, and proceeded to Kingston. +Though not the capital of the island, Kingston is the largest +town in Jamaica. It stands upon the brink of a frith, about nine +miles above Port Royal, and thence enjoys all the advantages of +the chief mart in this trading country. Like most other +mercantile seaports, it is built without much regard to +regularity. The streets, though wide, are in general the reverse +of elegant, being composed almost entirely of wooden houses, and +by no means remarkable for cleanliness. Of public buildings it +possesses none worthy of notice. Its inns are, however, +excellent; and though certainly not moderate in their charges, +they are at least more so than those of Bermuda. In a word, it +is exactly such a town as one would expect to find holding the +principal commercial rank in a colony where men's minds seldom +aspire beyond the occupations of trade. + +Of the intense heat in this place, none but those who have +experienced it can form a notion. It is impossible to walk out +with any comfort, except before the sun has risen, or after he +has set; and even within doors, with the aid of thorough draughts +and all the other expedients usually adopted on such occasions, +it is with the utmost difficulty that you can contrive to keep +your blood in a moderate degree of temperature. In the town +itself, therefore, few of the higher classes reside, the +closeness produced by a proximity of houses being in this climate +peculiarly insupportable. These inhabit for the most part little +villas, called Pens, about three or four miles in the country, +the +master of each family generally, retaining a suite of apartments, +or, perhaps an entire mansion, in some open street for his own +use, when business obliges, him, to exchange the comfort of fresh +air for the suffocating atmosphere of Kingston. Towards the +outskirts, indeed, in one direction, a few gentile families +inhabit one or two handsome houses, surrounded by extensive +gardens and shrubberies; but these are not numerous, and they are +so far removed from the heart of the town, as to be in great +measure beyond the influence of its smoke and other nuisances. + +During our sojourn in this place we received the most hospitable +attention from several persons of the first distinction. Balls +and other entertainments were given, at which all the beauty and +fashion in this part of the island attended; and for some days I +had little leisure or inclination for any other pursuit than the +enjoyment of civilized pleasure, a pursuit which, from long +disuse, possessed more than ordinary zest. But at length having +seen as much of Kingston and its vicinity as, I desired to see, I +determined to take advantage of the opportunity which fortune had +placed within my reach, and to make an excursion into the heart +of the Blue Mountains. To this I was additionally induced by an +invitation from an old friend to visit him at Annotto bay; and +as, along with his letter, he sent a horse for my own conveyance, +and a mule for the conveyance of my baggage, no difficulty +respecting a mode of being transported stood in the way to +obstruct my design. + +Having made up my mind to this journey, I waited, till sunset on +the 9th, when, starting in the cool of the evening, I reached a +little tavern called the Plum Tree, about half an hour after dark. +My ride carried me through an open and fertile country covered +with sugar-canes, coffee, and such other plants as are cultivated +in the low grounds of Jamaica. It was a short one, not more than +twelve miles in extent, but I was forced to halt where I did, +because I had gained the foot of the mountains; and if I had +passed the Plum Tree, well known as a sort of half-way house on +such tours, I might have travelled all night without finding any +place of accommodation. + +As darkness set in, one of the, beautiful peculiarities of a +tropical climate, which I had not previously witnessed, came +under my observation. The air was filled with fire-flies, which, +emitting a phosphoric light something similar to the light of +the glow-worm, only more red and brilliant, danced around me like +sparks from a smith's anvil when he is beating a bar of red-hot +iron. These creatures flutter about with a humming noise, and +frequently settle in large swarms upon branches of trees, giving +them the semblance of so many pieces of timber taken newly out of +a fire. When viewed by daylight they are in no way remarkable for +their elegance, resembling in the shape of the body a long beetle +which may be seen in the fields after sunset, without wings or +scales. In colour they are a dingy brown, and, like the +glow-worm, carry their light in the tail. + +As I had not before chanced to see anything of the kind, and +forgot at the moment that such an insect as the fire-fly existed, +I was for a few minutes at a loss to what cause to attribute the +phenomenon, and was at last indebted to my negro guide for +refreshing my memory on the subject. The effect, however, cannot +be conceived without being witnessed. A cluster of two or three +glow-worms shine so brilliantly, that they will furnish subject +for the commendatory eloquence of any one fortunate enough to +perceive them together; but their brilliancy is to a farthing +candle to the sun, when compared with that of the fire-fly. Not +two, or three, but thousands of these creatures dance around, +filling the air with a wavering and uncertain glimmer, of the +extreme beauty of which no words can convey an adequate +conception. + +THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. + +Having passed the night at this tavern, a small cottage kept by a +free negro and his wife, I rose two hours before dawn, and +prosecuted my journey. From the moment I quitted the Plate Tree +I began gradually to ascend, till at daybreak I found myself in +the midst of the most glorious scenery that the imagination of +man can conceive. Everything around was new and romantic. The +hills, towering into the very sky, were covered from top to +bottom with the richest herbage and the most luxuriant wood. +Rarely could a barren crag be discerned, and when it did appear +it was only a sharp point, or a bald projection pushing itself +forward from the midst of the thickest foliage. But what to me +formed the most bewitching part of the prospect was the elegance +of the trees and their perfect dissimilitude to any which had +previously beheld. The cocoa-nut and plantain were mingled with +the wild pine and lime-tree; while the cashew and wild coffee, +with numberless other shrubs, loaded at once with fruit and +blossom, formed the underwood to these graceful forests. + +As yet I had been favoured with a wide and good road, but now it +began gradually to narrow, till at last it ended in a path little +more distinct than the sheep-tracks over the hills in Scotland. +Winding along the sides of the mountains, it brought me +frequently to spots where the wood parting, as if artificially, +displayed deep ravines, to look down which, without becoming +dizzy, required no little strength of head; whilst above, the +same hill continued to stretch itself to a height far beyond any +I had before gazed upon. Presently after it conducted me gently +down into valleys completely shut out from the rest of the world; +and as I descended I could hear the roar of water, though +neither, the stream nor the bottom of the glen could be +perceived. On one of these occasions, after passing through a +thick grove, I beheld a river of some width dashing along the +glen, and chafing so as to produce the noise of a mighty +waterfall. Towards the brink of this river my guide conducted me; +when, plunging in, we made our way with some difficulty to the +opposite bank, and again began to ascend. + +For several hours, the same scenery surrounded me, only varied by +the occasional appearance of clusters of negro huts. Than these, +it is impossible to imagine any species of huts or dwellings more +beautifully picturesque. They are constructed of strong limbs of +trees, thatched over with straw, and usually ending in a cone; +having no windows, but only two, or sometimes four doors, for the +purpose of admitting a free current of air. The spots chosen for +their erection, are generally small platforms or terraces in the +sides of the hills. A little path, similar to that along which I +travelled, winds down from their doors to the bottom of the +valley, and conducts to the edge of the river, from whence the +inhabitants are supplied with water. Other tracks likewise +branch off in different directions, some towards the summit, and +others along the sides of the mountains; leading, probably, to +the fields or spots where the inhabitants labour. These huts have +no chimney, but only a large hole in the roof, to give free +passage to the smoke; and I could perceive, by its rise at +present, that fires were now burning. + +It would be labour lost, were I to attempt any more minute +description of this delightful journey. Every step I took +presented something new, and something more grand and sublime +than I had just quitted; whilst the continual fording of the +swollen river (for I crossed the same stream no fewer than +eight-and-twenty times) gave an additional interest to the scene, +arising from the sense of danger. The rainy season having just +ended, this stream, the Wag-water, a most appropriate name, had +not as yet returned to its natural size; but at the fords, which +in general would not cover a horse's knees, the depth was such as +to moisten the saddle-girths. So great a quantity of water, in a +furious mountain-torrent, pouring on with all the violence +produced by a steep descent, occasioned no slight pressure upon +my steed; nor was it without considerable floundering on his +part, and some anxiety on mine, that once or twice we succeeded +in making good our passage. + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + +NOON was approaching when my sooty fellow-traveller directed my +attention to a neat cottage, romantically situated on the top of +a low mound, which stood alone in the middle of stupendous +mountains. It commanded one of the most exquisite prospects that +fancy can represent. A sort of glen surrounded it on every side, +richly and beautifully wooded; behind, rose some of the most +lofty of the Blue Mountains; on the right there was an opening, +which admitted a fine view of Annotto Bay; whilst in the other +direction, the hills sloping gradually upwards, presented an +inclined plane, covered with fields of sugar-cane, and ending, +at a considerable distance, in one abrupt and broken ridge. + +The cottage in question was the residence of my friend, and the +resting-place whither my steps were turned; nor did I experience +any regret at finding myself so near my journey's end. The heat +had for some time been almost intolerable, and having eaten +nothing since the night before, nature began to cry out for +repose and repletion; and, in truth, the welcome which I +experienced, was of a nature to take away all desire of wandering +farther. We had not met for several years--not, indeed, since I +was a child--and in the interval, some melancholy changes had +occurred in the family of my host; but he received me with the +cordial hospitality which a warm heart produces, and forgot his +private sorrows for a time, that he might not throw a damp upon +my enjoyments. + +The remainder of this day I spent, as a powerful sensation of +fatigue warned me to spend it, within doors; but on the following +morning I set out at an early hour, for the purpose of gratifying +my curiosity on a number of points which had frequently exercised +it. In this excursion, and indeed in all the excursions which I +undertook during my residence at his Pen, my friend accompanied +me; and an excellent and most intelligent guide he proved to be. +We made the tour of several estates, saw the process of making +sugar, visited the sugar and coffee plantations, and inspected +several hospitals, with one of which each estate is supplied, for +the accommodation and cure of sick negroes. In the course of +these rambles, I made it my business to inquire into the +condition and treatment of the slave population; inspecting their +huts, and even examining their provisions; and I frankly confess +that, though I began my researches under the influence of as many +prejudices as, on such a subject, are wont to be entertained by +Englishmen in general, the result of the whole was to convince me +that I had done glaring injustice to the character of the Jamaica +planters, as well as fostered notions of the wretchedness of the +negroes, utterly and iniquitously erroneous. It is no business +of mine, and, if it were, this is no proper place to take part in +what has of late been termed the West-Indian controversy; but, as +an eye-witness, I may venture to speak out on one point, by +affirming, that a countless proportion of the stories with which +the British public is amused, touching the barbarous treatment of +slaves by owners and overseers, are, if not absolute fables, at +all events gross exaggerations. I am aware that my residence in +the island was too brief, and my acquaintance with it too +limited, to entitle my opinions to the weight which a more +protracted sojourn might have obtained for them; but it is but +justice to state, that whilst I was there, I enjoyed +opportunities of seeing the negro at all times, and under all +circumstances, such as few casual visitors can boast of. My host +was not a planter, but a medical practitioner; and one prejudiced +rather against the slave system than in favour of it: there was +therefore no disposition on his part to cast dust into my eyes, +or to present to them only the bright side of the picture. Under +his guidance, I beheld the negro at work in the fields, in the +bosom of his family, in the sick ward, and at market; and I never +saw him other than a contented and light-hearted being. No doubt +there are instances of cruelty on the part of overseers in +Jamaica, exactly as there are instances of tyranny on the part of +parish officers and county magistrates in England; but had these +been as numerous, or as flagrant, as they are represented to be, +I cannot doubt but that something of the kind must have passed +under my eyes, even within the space of one week. No such event, +however, took place; and, as far as I could learn, no such event +was to be expected. + +Far be it from me to stand forward as the advocate of personal +bondage in the abstract--it is a grievous evil; and wherever men +are so far civilized as to render its abolition desirable, it is +an evil which ought to be abolished. But it is an evil of long +standing, authorized in the Bible, and therefore, we may presume, +not without its counterbalancing benefits. He, therefore, who +would seek, at all hazards and under all circumstances, to +dissolve the tie which binds a master to his slave, and a slave +to his master--whilst he would be doing that which the Apostles +never did, and which Christians are nowhere commanded to +do--would run no slight hazard of causing a quantity of mischief +to both parties, for which the benefits bestowed upon either +would not compensate. With respect to our own colonies, in +particular, it is manifest that the whole matter resolves itself +into one consideration. If the negroes be in such a state, as +that the boon of universal freedom would be productive to them of +universal benefit, by all means let it be bestowed at once, even +though it be attended by so much national expense, as the fair +demands of the proprietors for compensation shall impose upon us. +If they be not thus situated, let every practicable method be +adopted to advance them on the scale of civilization; but till +they be advanced far beyond their present station, let no false +hopes be excited that the moment of their liberation is at +hand. Many measures for their improvement have been adopted since +the year 1814, and many more are in daily process of adoption; +but it is greatly to be apprehended that much of the benefit +which these measures promised to bring about, has been obstructed +by the indiscreet zeal of those who profess, and probably feel, +the liveliest interest in their welfare. + +Besides adding to my stock of knowledge as to the cultivation of +the sugar-cane, the making of sugar, rum, &c. &c.; I had an +opportunity of seeing something of the Maroons, or free Negroes, +who inhabit the mountains. These people dwell apart from the +European settlers, holding very little intercourse with them, +though a single European generally resides in each of their +villages, as a sort of chief or magistrate. They struck me to be +a lazy, indolent, and harmless race of human beings; and they +formed, in all their habits, a striking contrast with their +enslaved brethren. Whilst the latter devote their spare hours to +the culture of their own little spots, to cudgel-playing, +dancing, or other gambols, the former appear to spend their whole +time in a state between sleeping and waking, at the doors of +their huts, or under the shelter of trees. Some of the Maroon +females, I observed, were really handsome, their features being +high, and their persons elegantly formed; but in general they +differed nothing from the other negroes, from whom, indeed, they +are principally descended. + +I heard that the men carry on a petty trade in feathers, but that +their principal occupation, at least that from which they derive +the largest emolument, consists in apprehending, and leading back +to their masters, run-away slaves. For their services in this +department, they were wont to receive a pension from the +Government; and they are still, I believe, supplied with muskets +and ammunition at the expense of the colonial authorities. But +enough of these details. + +My sojourn in St. Mary's having extended considerably beyond the +limits which prudence would have imposed upon it, I set out on +the morning of the 13th, on my return towards Kingston. The +country through which I travelled differed in many respects from +that which I had crossed in my way hither: it was in general less +wild, and less mountainous; but it possessed features of striking +beauty, rich corn-fields being interspersed amidst graceful +forests, and here and there a wild hill-side rising as a contrast +to both. The most remarkable variety, and not perhaps the least +agreeable, was, however, to be found in the absence of the +Wag-water; my guide having led me in a direction by which its +tortuous course was avoided. + +As it was late before I started, my ride soon became toilsome on +account of the heat, and I was fain to stop short for the night +at a place called Stoney Hill, about twelve miles from Kingston. +Here I was hospitably entertained by the officers of the 102nd +regiment; and, rising at an early hour on the following morning, +I contrived to complete my journey before breakfast. And it was +well that no further time had been expended in my progress. The +ships, I found, were preparing to put to sea; the stock was all +embarked, and the crews on board; nothing therefore remained for +me but to follow the general example, and to establish myself +with as little delay as possible in my cabin. + +PORT ROYAL-NEGRIL BAY. + +In spite of these preparations, the 15th and 16th of November +both passed away without any movement being made. It was, +however, my custom not to neglect any opportunities which chanced +to come in my way of viewing strange places, and obtaining an +acquaintance with strange people; neither on the present occasion +did I fail to make the most of the interval, by landing and +wandering over the town of Port Royal. But to describe minutely +a place so little deserving of description, would hardly repay me +for the labour of writing, or the reader for the toil of perusing +what I write. It is sufficient to observe, that except to him who +takes delight in beholding a well-constructed military work, +there is nothing in the busy, bustling town of Port Royal which +will at all compensate for the heat and fatigue which he must +undergo who, like myself, traverses its streets and lanes at +noon-day. + +The long looked-for signal to weigh was hung out at last; and at +an early hour on the 17th we put to sea. Our point of +destination was Negril Bay, the appointed place of rendezvous for +the whole armament; and we reached it without the occurrence of +mishap or adventure on the evening of the 19th. We found here a +large fleet already assembled; but the horses were all landed, +many officers were dwelling in tents on the shore, and everything +gave indication that some further delay might be expected. To say +the truth, I experienced no degree of satisfaction at this +prospect; for the point of the island opposite to which we now +lay was neither remarkable for its natural beauty nor very +thickly inhabited; and had the contrary been the case, I had seen +as much of Jamaica and its people as I was at all desirous to +see. Besides, it was impossible not to feel that whatever the +object of our expedition might be, it was not likely to be +furthered by this tardy mode of entering upon it; and rumours +already began to spread abroad, of discoveries incautiously and +untimely made. It was, therefore, with no slight degree of +pleasure that, on the morning of the 24th, the topmasts of a +numerous squadron were seen over the eastern promontory, in full +sail towards us; and it was with still greater delight that in a +short time we were able to discern the flags of Sir Alexander +Cochrane and Admiral Malcolm floating in the breeze. By and bye +the Tonnant and Royal Oak showed their hulls in the offing; and a +short while afterwards, these ships, followed by a large fleet of +troopers and transports, majestically entered the bay. As may +be imagined, our curiosity was strongly excited to learn what +reinforcements they contained, and what intelligence they +brought; insomuch, that they had scarcely dropped anchor when +they were boarded from almost every one of the ships which they +came to join. + +NEGRIL BAY. + +It appeared that this powerful reinforcement consisted of the +following corps:--the 93rd regiment, a fine battalion of +Highlanders, mustering nine hundred bayonets; six companies of +the 95th rifle corps; two West India regiments, each eight +hundred strong; two squadrons of the 14th Dragoons dismounted; +detachments of artillery, rockets, sappers, and engineers; +recruits for the different corps already in this part of the +world; and though last, not least, Major-General Keane to take +upon himself the command of the whole. The intelligence brought +was likewise interesting, for it informed us of the point whither +we were to proceed; and it was soon known throughout the fleet, +that the conquest of New Orleans was the object in view. + +But before I pursue my narrative further, having arrived, as it +were, at a second commencement, it may be well if I state in full +the number of men of which the army now consisted. In the first +place, then, there were the 4th, 44th, and 85th regiments, +originally dispatched from Bordeaux, and the 21st, which joined +the expedition at Bermuda. These battalions, being considerably +reduced by past service, could not at present muster conjunctly +above two thousand two hundred men; and being likewise deprived +of the Marine battalion, which had fought beside them in the +Chesapeake, they retained no followers except the artillery, +sappers, &c. which had accompanied them from the first. The whole +amount of this corps may, therefore, be estimated at two thousand +five hundred men. + +Without computing the individual strength of each detachment +now arrived, I will venture to fix the aggregate at two thousand +five hundred; and thus the whole, taken collectively, will amount +to five thousand combatants. That it might somewhat exceed or +fall under this computation, I do not deny; but neither the +excess nor deficiency could be considerable; and therefore my +statement may be received as correct, with very little allowance. + +This, it must be confessed, was a formidable force, and such as, +had all its parts been trustworthy, might have done much. But on +the black corps little reliance could be placed, especially if +the climate should prove colder than was anticipated; +consequently, there were not more than three thousand four +hundred men upon whom a General could fully depend. + +Together with these forces were brought out abundant stores of +ammunition, some clothing for the troops, and tents to be used +when an opportunity should offer. There were also numerous +additions to the commissariat and medical departments; in short, +the materiel of the army was increased in proportion to its +increase in number. + +To find himself in the chief command of the army, exceeded the +expectation, and perhaps the desire, of General Keane. Being a +young and dashing officer, he had been selected as most fit to +serve under General Ross; and having sailed from England before +the death of that gallant chief was known, he reached Madeira +before his elevation was communicated to him. Young as he was, +however, his arrival produced much satisfaction throughout the +armament; for though no one entertained a doubt as to the +personal courage of Colonel Brook, it was felt that a leader of +more experience was wanted on the present expedition. + +As soon as the newly-arrived squadron had anchored, the Bay was +covered with boats, which conveyed parties of officers from ship +to ship, hastening to salute their comrades, and to inquire into +the state of things at home. Greetings and hearty embraces were +interchanged between friends thus again brought together; and a +few passing ejaculations of sorrow bestowed upon those who could +not now take part in the meeting. Many questions were put, +relative to persons and places in England; in a word, the day +was spent in that species of employment, which can be completely +known only to those who have been similarly situated. + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +AT SEA. + +BUT the period granted for such indulgence was not of long +duration, for on the following morning the Tonnant, Ramilies, and +two brigs stood to sea; and on the 26th the rest of the fleet got +under weigh and followed the Admiral. It is impossible to +conceive a finer sea-view than this general stir presented. Our +fleet amounted now to upwards of fifty sail, many of them vessels +of war, which shaking loose their topsails, and lifting their +anchors at the same moment, gave to Negril Bay an appearance of +bustle such as it has seldom been able to present. In half an +hour all the canvas was set, and the ships moved slowly and +proudly from their anchorage, till, having cleared the headlands, +and caught the fair breeze which blew without, they bounded over +the water with the speed of eagles, and long before dark the +coast of Jamaica had disappeared. + +There is something in rapidity of motion, whether it be along a +high road or across the deep, extremely elevating; nor was its +effect unperceived on the present occasion. It is true that +there were other causes for the high spirits which now pervaded +the armament, but I question if any proved more efficient in +their production than the astonishing rate of our sailing. +Whether the business we were about to undertake would prove +bloody or the reverse entered not into the calculations of a +single individual in the fleet. The sole subject of remark was +the speed with which we got over the ground, and the probability +that existed of our soon reaching the point of debarkation. The +change of climate, likewise, was not without its effect in +producing pleasurable sensations. The farther we got from +Jamaica, the more cool and agreeable became the atmosphere; from +which circumstance we were led to hope that, in spite of its +southern latitude, New Orleans would not be found so oppressively +hot as we had been taught to expect. + +The breeze continuing without interruption, on the 29th we came +in sight of the island of Grand Cayman. It is a small speck in +the middle of the sea, lying so near the level of the water as to +be unobservable at any considerable distance. Though we passed +along with prodigious velocity, a canoe nevertheless ventured off +from the shore, and making its way through waves which looked as +if they would swallow it up, succeeded in reaching our vessel. +It contained a white man and two negroes, who brought off a +quantity of fine turtle, which they gave us in exchange for salt +pork; and so great was the value put upon salt provisions, that +the bartered a pound and a half of the one for a pound of the +other. To us the exchange was very acceptable, and thus both +parties remained satisfied with their bargain. + +Having lain-to till our turtle-merchants left us, we again filled +and stood our course. The land of Cayman was soon invisible; nor +was any other perceived till the 2nd of December, when the +western shores of Cuba presented themselves. Towards them we now +directed the ship's head, and reaching in within a few miles of +the beach, coasted along till we had doubled the promontory, +which forms one of the jaws of the Mexican Gulf. Whilst keeping +thus close to the shore, our sail was more interesting than +usual, for though this side of Cuba be low, it is nevertheless +picturesque, from the abundance of wood with which it is +ornamented. There are likewise several points where huge rocks +rise perpendicularly out of the water, presenting the appearance +of old baronial castles, with their battlements and lofty +turrets; and it will easily be believed that none of these +escaped our observation. The few books which we had brought to +sea were all read, many of them twice and three times through; +and there now remained nothing to amuse except what the variety +of the voyage could produce. + +But the shores of Cuba were quickly passed, and the old prospect +of sea and sky again met the gaze. There was, however, one +circumstance from which we experienced a considerable diminution +of comfort. As soon as we entered the gulf, a short disagreeable +swell was perceptible; differing in some respects from that in +the Bay of Biscay, but to my mind infinitely more unpleasant. So +great was the motion, indeed, that all walking was prevented; but +as we felt ourselves drawing every hour nearer and nearer to the +conclusion of our miseries, this additional one was borne without +much repining. Besides, we found some amusement in watching, from +the cabin windows, the quantity and variety of weed with which +the surface of the gulf is covered. The current being here +extremely rapid, the weed sails continually in the same +direction; that is to say, it goes round by the opposite side of +Cuba towards the banks of Newfoundland, and is carried sometimes +as far as Bermuda, and even to the Western Isles. + +It is not, however, my intention to continue the detail of this +voyage longer than may be interesting; I shall therefore merely +state that, the wind and weather having undergone some +variations, it was the 10th of December before the shores of +America could be discerned. On that day we found ourselves +opposite to the Chandeleur Islands, and near the entrance of Lake +Borgne. There the fleet anchored, that the troops might be +removed from the heavy ships into such as drew least water; and +from this and other preparations it appeared that to ascend this +lake was the plan determined upon. + +NEW ORLEANS. + +But before I pursue my narrative further, it will be well if I +endeavour to give some account of the situation of New Orleans, +and of the nature of the country against which our operations +were directed. + +New Orleans is a town of some note, containing from twenty to +thirty thousand inhabitants. It stands upon the eastern bank of +the Mississippi, in 30 degrees north latitude, and about 110 +miles from the Gulf of Mexico. Though in itself unfortified, it +is difficult to conceive a place capable of presenting greater +obstacles to an invader; and at the same time more conveniently +situated with respect to trade. Built upon a narrow neck of +land, which is confined on one side by the river, and on the +other by impassable morasses, its means of defence require little +explanation; and as these morasses extend to the distance of only +a few miles, and are succeeded by Lake Pontchartrain, which again +communicates through Lake Borgne* with the sea, its peculiar +commercial advantages must be equally apparent. It is by means +of the former of these lakes, indeed, that intercourse is +maintained between the city and the northern parts of West +Florida, of which it is the capital; a narrow creek, called in +the language of the country a bayo or bayouke, navigable for +vessels drawing less than six feet water, running up through the +marsh, and ending within two miles of the town. The name of this +creek is the Bayouke of St. John, and its entrance is defended +by works of considerable strength. + +_______________________ +* These are, properly speaking, one and the same lake. From the +entrance, however, as far as Ship Island, is called by the +inhabitants Lake Borgne, whilst all above that point goes under +the name of Lake Pontchartrain. They are both extremely shallow, +varying from 12 to 6 feet in depth. +----------------------- + +But to exhibit its advantages in a more distinct point of view, +it will be necessary to say a few words respecting that mighty +river upon which it stands. The Mississippi (a corruption of the +word Mechasippi, signifying, in the language of the natives, "the +father of rivers ") is allowed to be inferior, in point of size +and general navigability, to few streams in the world. According +to the Sioux Indians it takes its rise from a large swamp, and is +increased by many rivers emptying themselves into its course as +far as the Fall of St. Anthony, which, by their account, is +upwards of 700 leagues from its source. But this fall, which is +formed by a rock thrown across the channel, of about twelve feet +perpendicular height, is known to be 800 leagues from the sea; +and therefore the whole course of the Mississippi, from its +spring to its mouth, may be computed at little short of 5000 +miles. + +Below the fall of St. Anthony, again, the Mississippi is joined +by a number of rivers, considerable in point of size, and leading +out of almost every part of the continent of America. These are +the St. Pierre, which comes from the west; St. Croix, from the +eat; the Moingona, which is said to run 150 leagues from the +west, and forms a junction about 250 below the fall; and the +Illinois, which rises near the lake Michigan, 200 leagues east of +the Mississippi. + +But by far the most important of these auxiliary streams is the +Missouri, the source of which is as little known as that of the +Father of Rivers himself. It has been followed by traders +upwards of 400 leagues, who traffic with the tribes which dwell +upon its banks, and obtain an immense return for European goods. +The mouth of this river is five leagues below that of the +Illinois, and is supposed to be 800 from its source, which, +judging from the flow of its waters, lies in a north-west +direction from the Mississippi. It is remarkable enough that the +waters of this river are black and muddy, and prevail over those +of the Mississippi, which running with a clear and gentle stream +till it meets with this addition, becomes from that time both +dark and rapid. + +The next river of note is the Ohio, which taking its rise near +Lake Erie, runs from the north-east to the south-west, and joins +the Mississippi about 70 leagues below the Missouri. Besides +this there are the St. Francis, an inconsiderable stream, and +the Arkansas, which is said to originate in the same latitude +with Santa Fe in New Mexico, and which, holding its course nearly +300 leagues, falls in about 200 above New Orleans. Sixty leagues +below the Arkansas, comes the Yazous from the northeast; and +about 58 nearer to the city is the Rouge, so called from the +colour of its waters, which are of a reddish dye, and tinge those +of the Mississippi at the time of the floods. Its source is in +New Mexico, and after running about 200 leagues it is joined by +the Noir 30 miles above the place where it empties itself into +the Mississippi. + +Of all these rivers there is none which will not answer the +purposes of commerce, at least to a very considerable extent; and +as they join the Mississippi above New Orleans, it is evident +that this city may be considered as the general mart of the +whole. Whatever nation, therefore, chances to possess this +place, possesses in reality the command of a greater extent of +country than is included within the boundary-line of the whole +United States since from every direction are goods, the produce +of East, West, North, and South America, sent down by the +Mississippi to the Gulf. But were New Orleans properly supplied +with fortifications, it is evident that no vessels could pass +without the leave of its governor; and therefore is it that I +consider that city as of greater importance to the American +government than any other within the compass of their +territories. + +Having said so much on its commercial advantages, let me now +point out more distinctly than I have yet done the causes which +contribute to its safety from all hostile attempts. The first of +these is the shallowness of the river at its mouth, and the +extreme rapidity of the current. After flowing on in one +prodigious sheet of water, varying in depth from one hundred to +thirty fathoms, the Mississippi, previous to its joining the +Mexican Gulf, divides into four or five mouths, the most +considerable of which is encumbered by a sandbank continually +liable to shift. Over this bank no vessel drawing above +seventeen feet water can pass; when once across, however, there +is no longer a difficulty in being floated; but to anchor is +hazardous, on account of the huge logs which are constantly +carried down the stream. Should one of these strike the bow of +the ship, it would probably dash her to pieces; whilst, +independent of this, there is always danger of drifting or losing +anchors, owing to the number of sunken logs which the under-current +bears along within a few feet of the bottom. All vessels +ascending the river are accordingly obliged, if the wind be foul, +to make fast to the trees upon the banks; because without a +breeze at once fair and powerful, it is impossible to stem the +torrent. + +But besides this natural obstacle to invasion, the mouth of the +river is defended by a fort, which from its situation may be +pronounced impregnable. It is built upon an artificial causeway, +and is surrounded on all sides by swamps totally impervious, +which extend on both sides of the river to a place called the +Detour des Anglais, within twenty miles of the city. Here two +other forts are erected, one on each bank. Like that at the +river's mouth, these are surrounded by a marsh, a single narrow +path conducting from the commencement of firm ground to the gates +of each. If, therefore, an enemy should contrive to pass both +the bar and the first fort, he must here be stopped, because all +landing is prevented by the nature of the soil; and however fair +his breeze may have hitherto been, it will not now assist his +further progress. At this point the Mississippi winds almost in +a circle, insomuch that vessels which arrive are necessitated to +make fast till a change of wind occur. + +From the Detour des Anglais towards New Orleans the face of the +country undergoes an alteration. The swamp does not indeed end, +but it narrows off to the right, leaving a space of firm ground, +varying, from three to one mile in, width, between it and the +river. At the back of this swamp, again, which may be about six +or eight miles across, come up the waters of Lake Pontchartrain, +and thus a neck of arable land is formed, stretching for some way +above the city. The whole of these morasses are covered as far +as the Detour with tall reeds; a little wood now succeeds, +skirting the open country, but the wood measures no more than one +mile in depth, when it again gives place to reeds. Such is the +aspect of that side of the river upon which the city is built; +with respect to the other I can speak with less confidence, +having seen it but cursorily. It appears, however, to resemble +this in almost every particular, except that it is more wooded +and less confined with marsh. Both sides are flat, containing no +broken ground, nor any other cover, for military movements; for +on the open shore there are no trees, except a few in the gardens +of those houses which skirt the rivers; the whole being laid out +in large fields of sugar-cane; separated from one another by +rails and ditches. + +From the preceding brief account of the country, the advantages +possessed by a defending army must; be apparent. To approach by +the river is out of the question, and therefore an enemy can land +only from the lake. But this can be done nowhere, except where +creeks or bayos offer convenience for that purpose, because the +banks of the lake are universally swampy; and can hardly supply +footing for infantry, far less for the transportation of +artillery. Of these, however, there are not above one or two +which could be so used. The Bayo of St. John is one; but it is +too well defended, and too carefully guarded for any attempts; +and the Bayo of Catiline is another, about ten miles below the +city. That this last might be found useful in an attack, was +proved by the landing affected by our army at that point; but +what is the consequence? The invaders arrive upon a piece of +ground, where the most consummate generalship will be of little +If the defenders can but retard their progress--which, by +crowding the Mississippi with armed vessels, may very easily be +done, the labour of a few days will cover the narrow neck with +entrenchments; whilst the opposite bank remaining in their hands, +can at all times gall their enemy with a close and deadly +cannonade. Of wood, as I have already said, or broken ground +which might conceal an advance, there exists not a particle. +Every movement of the assailants must, therefore, be made under +their eyes; and as one flank of their army will be defended by a +morass, and the other by the river, they may bid defiance to all +attempts at turning. + +Such are the advantages of New Orleans; and now it is only fair +that I should state its disadvantages: these are owing solely the +climate. From the swamps with which it is surrounded, there +arise, during the summer months, exhalations extremely fatal to +the health of its inhabitants. For some months of the year, +indeed, so deadly are the effects of the atmosphere, that the +garrison is withdrawn, and most of the families retire from their +houses to more genial spots, leaving the town as much deserted as +if it had been visited by a pestilence. Yet, in spite of these +cautions, agues and intermittent fevers abound here at all times. +Nor is it wonderful that the case should be so; for independent +of the vile air which the vicinity of so many putrid swamps +occasions, this country is more liable than perhaps any other to +sudden and severe changes of temperature. A night of keen frost +sufficiently powerful to produce ice a quarter of an inch in +thickness, frequently follows a day of intense heat; whilst heavy +rains and bright sunshine often succeed each other several times +in the course of a few hours. But these changes, as may +supposed, occur only during the winter; the summer being one +continued series of intolerable heat and deadly fog. + +LAKE BORGNE. + +Of all these circumstances the conductors of the present +expedition were not ignorant. To reduce the forts which command +the navigation of the river was regarded as a task too difficult +to be attempted; and for any ships to pass without their +reduction seemed impossible. Trusting, therefore, that the +object of the enterprise was unknown to the Americans, Sir +Alexander Cochrane and General Keane determined to effect a +landing somewhere on the banks of the lake; and pushing directly +on, to take possession of the town, before any effectual +preparation could be made for its defence. With this view the +troops were removed from the larger into the lighter vessels, and +these, under convoy of such gun-brigs as the shallowness of the +water would float, began on the 13th to enter Lake Borgne. But we +had not proceeded far, when it was apparent that the Americans +were well acquainted with our intentions, and ready to receive +us. Five large cutters, armed with six heavy guns each, were +seen at anchor in the distances: and as all endeavours to land, +till these were captured, would have been useless, the transports +and largest of the gun-brigs cast anchor, whilst the smaller +craft gave chase to the enemy. + +But these cutters were built purposely to act upon the lake. +They accordingly set sail as soon as the English cruisers arrived +within a certain distance, and running on, were quickly out of +sight, leaving the pursuers fast aground. To permit them to +remain in the hands of the enemy, however, would be fatal, +because, as long as they commanded the navigation of the lake, no +boats could venture to cross. It was therefore determined at all +hazards, and at any expense, to take them; and since our lightest +craft could not float where they sailed, a flotilla of launches +and ships' barges was got ready for the purpose. + +This flotilla consisted of fifty open boats; most of them armed +with a carronade in the bow, and well manned with volunteers from +the different ships of war. The command was given to Captain +Lockier, a brave and skilful officer, who immediately pushed off; +and about noon came in sight of the enemy, moored fore and aft, +with broadsides pointing towards him. Having pulled a +considerable distance, he resolved to refresh his men before he +hurried them into action; and, accordingly, letting fall +grapplings just beyond the reach of the enemy's guns, the crews +of the different boats coolly ate their dinner. + +As soon as that meal was finished, and an hour spent in resting, +the boats again got ready to advance. But, unfortunately, a +light breeze which had hitherto favoured them, now ceased to +blow, and they were in consequence compelled to make way only +with the oar. The tide also ran strong against them, at once +increasing their labour and retarding their progress; but all +these difficulties appeared trifling to British sailors; and, +giving a hearty cheer, they moved steadily onward in one extended +line. + +It was not long before the enemy's guns opened upon them, and a +tremendous shower of balls saluted their approach. Some boats +were sunk, others disabled, and many men were killed and wounded; +but the rest pulling with all their might, and occasionally +returning the discharges from their carronades, succeeded, after +an hour's labour, in closing with the Americans. The marines now +began a deadly fire of musketry; whilst the seamen, sword in +hand, sprang up the vessels' sides in spite of all opposition; +and sabring every man that stood in their way, hauled down the +American ensign, and hoisted the British flag in its place. + +One cutter alone, which bore the commodore's broad pendant, was +not so easily subdued. Having noted its pre-eminence, Captain +Lockier directed his own boat against it; and happening to have +placed himself in one of the lightest and fastest sailing barges +in the flotilla, he found himself alongside of his enemy before +any of the others were near enough to render him the smallest +support. But nothing dismayed by odds so fearful, the gallant +crew of this small bark, following their leader, instantly leaped +on board the American. A desperate conflict ensued, in which +Captain Lockier received several severe wounds; but after +fighting from the bow to the stern, the enemy were at length +overpowered; and other barges coming up to the assistance of +their commander, the commodore's flag shared the same fate with +the others. + +PINE ISLAND. + +Having destroyed all opposition in this quarter, the fleet again +weighed anchor, and stood up the lake. But we had not been many +hours under sail, when ship after ship ran aground: such as still +floated were, therefore, crowded with the troops from those which +could go no farther, till finally the lightest vessel stuck fast; +and the boats were of necessity hoisted out, to carry us a +distance of upwards of thirty miles. To be confined for so long +a time as the prosecution of this voyage would require, in one +posture, was of itself no very agreeable prospect; but the +confinement was but a trifling misery when compared with that +which arose from the change in the weather. Instead of a +constant bracing frost, heavy rains, such as an inhabitant of +England cannot dream of, and against which no cloak could furnish +protection, began. In the midst of these were the troops embarked +in their new and straitened transports, and each division, after +an exposure of ten hours, landed upon a small desert spot of +earth, called Pine Island, where it was determined to collect the +whole army, previous to its crossing over to the main. + +Than this spot it is scarcely possible to imagine any place more +completely wretched. It was a swamp, containing a small space of +firm ground at one end, and almost wholly unadorned with trees of +any sort or description. There were, indeed, a few stinted [sic] +firs upon the very edge of the water, but these were so +diminutive in size as hardly to deserve a higher classification +than among the meanest of shrubs. The interior was the resort of +wild ducks and other water-fowl; and the pools and creeks with +which it was intercepted abounded in dormant alligators. + +Upon this miserable desert the army was assembled, without tents +or huts, or any covering to shelter them from the inclemency of +the weather; and in truth we may fairly affirm that our hardships +had here their commencement. After having been exposed all day +to a cold and pelting rain, we landed upon a barren island, +incapable of furnishing even fuel enough to supply our fires. To +add to our miseries, as night closed, the rain generally ceased, +and severe frosts set in, which, congealing our wet clothes upon +our bodies, left little animal warmth to keep the limbs in a +state of activity; and the consequence was, that many of the +wretched negroes, to whom frost and cold were altogether new, +fell fast asleep, and perished before morning. + +For provisions, again, we were entirely dependent upon the fleet. +There were here no living creatures which would suffer themselves +to be caught; even the water-fowl being so timorous that it was +impossible to approach them within musket-shot. Salt meat and +ship biscuit were, therefore, our food, moistened by a small +allowance of rum; fare which, though no doubt very wholesome, was +not such as to reconcile us to the cold and wet under which we +suffered. + +On the part of the navy, again, all these hardships were +experienced in a four-fold degree. Night and day were boats +pulling from the fleet to the island, and from the island to the +fleet; for it was the 21st before all the troops were got on +shore; and as there was little time to inquire into men's turns +of labour, many seamen were four or five days continually at the +oar. Thus they had not only to bear up against variety of +temperature, but against hunger, fatigue, and want of sleep in +addition; three as fearful burdens as can be laid upon the human +frame. Yet in spite of all this, not a murmur nor a whisper of +complaint could be heard throughout the whole expedition. No man +appeared to regard the present, whilst every one looked forward +to the future. From the General, down to the youngest drum-boy, +a confident anticipation of success seemed to pervade all ranks; +and in the hope of an ample reward in store for them, the toils +and grievances of the moment were forgotten. Nor was this +anticipation the mere offspring of an overweening confidence in +themselves. Several Americans had already deserted, who +entertained us with accounts of the alarm experienced at New +Orleans. They assured us that there were not at present 5000 +soldiers in the State; that the principal inhabitants had long +ago left the place; that such as remained were ready to join us +as soon as we should appear among them; and that, therefore, we +might lay our account with a speedy and bloodless conquest. The +same persons likewise dilated upon the wealth and importance of +the town, upon the large quantities of Government stores there +collected, and the rich booty which would reward its capture; +subjects well calculated to tickle the fancy of invaders, and to +make them unmindful of immediate afflictions, in the expectation +of so great a recompense to come. + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + +IT is well known that, at the period to which my narrative +refers, an alliance, offensive and defensive, subsisted between +the Government of Great Britain and the heads of as many Indian +nations or tribes as felt the aggressions of the settlers upon +their ancient territories, and were disposed to resent them. On +this side of the continent our principal allies were the Chaktaws +and Cherokees, two nations whom war and famine had reduced from a +state of comparative majesty to the lowest ebb of feebleness and +distress. Driven from hunting-ground to hunting-ground, and +pursued like wild beasts wherever seen, they were now confined to +a narrow tract of country, lying chiefly along the coasts of the +gulf and the borders of the lakes which adjoin to it. For some +time previous to the arrival of the expedition, the warriors of +these tribes put themselves under the command of Colonel +Nickolls, of the Royal Marines, and continued to harass the +Americans by frequent incursions into the cultivated districts. +It so happened, however, that, being persuaded to attempt the +reduction of a fort situated upon Mobile Point, and being, as +might be expected, repulsed with some loss, their confidence in +their leader, and their dependence upon British aid, had begun of +late to suffer a serious diminution. Though not very profitable +as friends, their local position and desultory mode of warfare +would have rendered them at this period exceedingly annoying to +us as enemies; it was accordingly determined to dispatch an +embassy to their settlements, for the purpose of restoring them +to good humour, or at least discovering their intentions. + +Whilst the troops were assembling upon Pine Island, a cutter, +having proper officers on board, and carrying presents of +clothing, arms, and rum, was dispatched upon this business. It +reached its place of destination in safety, and the ambassadors +found very little difficulty in bringing back the fickle Indians +to their wonted reliance upon British support. Several of the +chiefs and warriors, indeed, requested and obtained permission to +visit our Admiral and General, and to follow the fortunes of our +troops; and a very grotesque and singular appearance they +presented as they stood upon the quarter-deck of the Tonnant. +But the costume, habits, and customs of these savages have been +too frequently and too accurately described elsewhere, to render +any account of them on the present occasion desirable. It is +sufficient to observe, that whilst they gazed upon everything +around them with a look expressive of no astonishment whatever, +they were themselves objects of eager curiosity to us; and that +they bore our close inspection and somewhat uncourteous +deportment with the most perfect philosophy. But to my tale. + +The enemy's cutters having fallen into our hands, at an early +hour on the morning of the 16th the disembarkation of the troops +began. So deficient, however, was the fleet in boats and other +small craft fit to navigate the lakes, that it was late on the +evening of the 21st before the last division took up its ground +upon Pine Island, and even then the inconveniences of our descent +were but beginning. The troops had yet to be arranged in corps +and brigades; to each of these its proportion of Commissaries, +Purveyors, and Medical attendants, &c., &c., required to be +allotted; and some attempt at establishing depots of provisions +and military stores behoved to be made. In adjusting these +matters the whole of the 22nd was occupied, on which day the +General likewise reviewed the whole of the army. This being +ended, the force was next distributed into divisions, or corps; +and the following is the order it assumed. + +Instead of a light brigade, the General resolved to set apart +three battalions as an advanced guard. The regiments nominated +to that service were the 4th, the 85th Light Infantry, and the +95th. Rifles; and he selected Colonel Thornton of the 85th, as an +officer of talent and enterprise, to command them. Attached to +this corps were a party of rocket-men, with two light three-pounders-- +a species of gun convenient enough, where celerity of movement is +alone regarded, but of very little real utility in the field. +The rest of the troops were arranged, as before, into two +brigades. The first, composed of the 21st, 44th, and one +black regiment, was intrusted to Colonel Brook; and the second, +containing the 93rd and the other black corps, to Colonel +Hamilton, of the 7th West India regiment. To each of these, a +certain proportion of artillery and rockets was allotted: whilst +the dragoons, who had brought their harness and other +appointments on shore, remained as a sort of bodyguard to the +General, till they should provide themselves with horses. + +The adjustment of these matters having occupied a considerable +part of the 22nd, it was determined that all things should remain +as they were till next morning. Boats, in the mean time, began +to assemble from all quarters, supplies of ammunition were +packed, so as to prevent the possibility of damage from moisture, and +stores of various descriptions were got ready. But it appeared +that, even now, many serious inconveniences must be endured, and +obstacles surmounted, before the troops could reach the scene of +action. In the first place, from Pine Island to that part of the +main towards which prudence directed us to steer, was a distance +of no less than 80 miles. This, of itself, was an obstacle, or +at least an inconvenience, of no slight nature; for should the +weather prove boisterous, open boats, heavily laden with +soldiers, would stand little chance of escaping destruction in +the course of so long a voyage. In the next place, and what was +of infinitely greater importance, it was found that there were +not, throughout the whole fleet, a sufficient number of boats to +transport above one third of the army at a time. But to land in +divisions would expose our forces to be attacked in detail, by +which means one party might be cut to pieces before the others +could arrive to its support. The undertaking was, therefore, on +the whole, extremely dangerous, and such as would have been +probably abandoned by more timid leaders. Ours, however, were +not so to be alarmed. They had entered upon a hazardous +business, in whatever way it should be prosecuted; and since they +could not work miracles, they resolved to lose no time in +bringing their army into the field in the best manner which +circumstances would permit. + +THE LAKE. + +With this view, the advance, consisting of 1600 men and two +pieces of cannon, was next morning embarked. I have already +stated that there is a small creek, called the Bayo de Catiline, +which runs up from Lake Pontchartrain through the middle of an +extensive morass, about ten miles below New Orleans. Towards +this creek were the boats directed, and here it was resolved to +effect a landing. When we set sail, the sky was dark and +lowering, and before long a heavy rain began to fall. Continuing +without intermission during the whole of the day, towards night, +it, as usual, ceased, and was succeeded by a sharp frost; which, +taking effect upon men thoroughly exposed, and already cramped by +remaining so long in one posture, rendered our limbs completely +powerless. Nor was there any means of dispelling the benumbing +sensation, or effectually resisting the cold. Fires of charcoal, +indeed, being lighted in the sterns of the boats, were permitted +to burn as long as daylight lasted; but as soon as it grew dark, +they were of necessity extinguished, lest the flame should be +seen by row-boats from the shore, and an alarm be thus +communicated. Our situation was, therefore, the reverse of +agreeable; since even sleep was denied us, from the apprehension +of fatal consequences. + +THE LAKE--LANDING. + +Having remained in this uncomfortable state till midnight, the +boats cast anchor and hoisted awnings. There was a small piquet +of the enemy stationed at the entrance of the creek by which it +was intended to effect our landing. This it was absolutely +necessary to surprise; and whilst the rest lay at anchor, two or +three fast-sailing barges were pushed on to execute the service. +Nor did they experience much difficulty in accomplishing their +object. Nothing, as it appeared, was less dreamt of by the +Americans than an attack from this quarter, consequently no +persons could be less on their guard than the party here +stationed. The officer who conducted the force sent against +them, found not so much as a single sentinel posted! but having +landed his men at two places, above and below the but which they +inhabited, extended his ranks so as to surround it, and closing +gradually in, took them all fast asleep, without noise or +resistance. + +When such time had been allowed as was deemed sufficient for the +accomplishment of this undertaking, the flotilla again weighed +anchor, and without waiting for intelligence of success, pursued +their voyage. Hitherto we had been hurried along at a rapid rate +by a fair breeze, which enabled us to carry canvas; but this now +left us, and we made way only by rowing. Our progress was +therefore considerably retarded, and the risk of discovery +heightened by the noise which that labour necessarily occasions; +but in spite of these obstacles, we reached the entrance of the +creek by dawn; and about nine o'clock, were safely on shore. + +The place where we landed was as wild as it is possible to +imagine. Gaze where we might, nothing could be seen except one +huge marsh covered with tall reeds; not a house nor a vestige of +human industry could be discovered; and even of trees there were +but a few growing upon the banks of the creek. Yet it was such a +spot as, above all others, favoured our operations. No eye could +watch us, or report our arrival to the American General. By +remaining quietly among the reeds, we might effectually conceal +ourselves from notice; because, from appearance of all around, it +was easy to perceive that the place which we occupied had been +seldom, if ever before, marked with a human footstep. +Concealment, however, was the thing of all others which we +required; for be it remembered that there were now only sixteen +hundred men on the mainland. The rest were still at Pine Island, +where they must remain till the boats which had transported us +should return for their conveyance, consequently many hours must +elapse before this small corps could be either reinforced or +supported. If, therefore, we had sought for a point where a +descent might be made in secrecy and safety, we could not have +found one better calculated for that purpose than the present; +because it afforded every means of concealment to one part of our +force, until the others should be able to come up. + +MARCH. + +For these reasons, it was confidently expected that no movement +would be made previous to the arrival of the other brigades; but, +in our expectations of quiet, we were deceived. The deserters +who had come in, and accompanied us as guides, assured the +General that he had only to show himself, when the whole district +would submit. They repeated, that there were not five thousand +men in arms throughout the State: that of these, not more than +twelve hundred were regular soldiers, and that the whole force +was at present several miles on the opposite side of the town, +expecting an attack on that quarter, and apprehending no danger +on this. These arguments, together with the nature of the ground +on which we stood, so ill calculated for a proper distribution of +troops in case of attack, and so well calculated to hide the +movements of an army acquainted with all the passes and tracks +which, for aught we knew, intersected the morass, induced our +leader to push forward at once into the open country. As soon, +therefore, as the advance was formed, and the boats had departed, +we began our march, following an indistinct path along the edge +of the ditch or canal. But it was not without many checks that +we were able to proceed. Other ditches, similar to that whose +course we pursued, frequently stopped us by running in a cross +direction, and falling into it at right angles. These were too +wide to be leaped, and too deep to be forded; consequently, on +all such occasions, the troops were obliged to halt, till bridges +were hastily constructed of such materials as could be procured, +and thrown across. + +Having advanced in this manner for several hours, we at length +found ourselves approaching a more cultivated region. The marsh +became gradually less and less continued, being intersected by +wider spots of firm ground; the reeds gave place, by degrees, to +wood, and the wood to inclosed fields. Upon these, however, +nothing grew, harvest having long ago ended. They accordingly +presented but a melancholy appearance, being covered with the +stubble of sugar-cane, which resembled the reeds which we had +just quitted, in everything except altitude. Nor as yet was any +house or cottage to be seen. Though we knew, therefore, that +human habitations could not be far off, it was impossible to +guess where they lay, or how numerous they might prove; and as +we could not tell whether our guides might not be deceiving us, +and whether ambuscades might not be laid for our destruction as +soon as we should arrive where troops could conveniently act, our +march was insensibly conducted with increased caution and +regularity. + +But in a little while some groves of orange-trees presented +selves; on passing which two or three farm-houses +appeared. Towards these, our advanced companies immediately +hastened, with the hope of surprising the inhabitants, and +preventing any from being raised. Hurrying on at double-quick +time, they surrounded the buildings, succeeded in securing the +inmates, capturing several horses; but becoming rather careless +in watching their prisoners, one man contrived to effect his +escape. Now, then, all hope of eluding observation might be laid +aside. The rumour of our landing would, we knew, spread faster +than we could march; and it only remained to make that rumour as +terrible as possible. + +With this view, the column was commanded to widen its files, and +to present as formidable an appearance as could be assumed. +Changing our order, in obedience to these directions, we marched, +not in sections of eight or ten abreast, but in pairs, and thus +contrived to cover with our small division as large a tract or +ground as if we had mustered thrice our present numbers. Our +steps were likewise quickened, that we might gain, if possible, +some advantageous position, where we might be able to cope with +any force that might attack us; and thus hastening on, we soon +arrived at the main road which leads directly to New +Orleans. Turning to the right, we then advanced in the direction +of that town for about a mile; when, having reached a spot where +it was considered that we might encamp in comparative safety, our +little column halted; the men piled their arms, and a regular +bivouac was formed. + +HALT. + +The country where we had now established ourselves, answered, in +every respect, the description which I have already given of the +neck of land on which New Orleans is built. It was a narrow +plain of about a mile in width, bounded on one side by the +Mississippi, and on the other by the marsh from which we had just +emerged. Towards the open ground this marsh was covered with +dwarf wood, having the semblance of a forest rather than of a +swamp; but on trying the bottom, it was found that both +characters were united, and that it was impossible for a man to +make his way among the trees, so boggy was the soil upon which +they grew. In no other quarter, however, was there a single +hedge-row, or plantation of any kind; excepting a few apple and +other fruit trees in the gardens of such houses as were scattered +over the plain, the whole being laid out in large fields for the +growth of sugar-cane, a plant which seems as abundant in this +part of the world as in Jamaica. + +Looking up towards the town, which we at this time faced, the +marsh is upon your right, and the river upon your left. Close to +the latter runs the main road, following the course of the stream +all the way to New Orleans. Between the road and the water is +thrown up a lofty and strong embankment, resembling the dykes in +Holland, and meant to serve a similar purpose; by means of which +the Mississippi is prevented from overflowing its banks, and the +entire flat is preserved from inundation. But the attention of a +stranger is irresistibly drawn away from every other object, to +contemplate the magnificence of this noble river. Pouring along +at the prodigious rate of four miles an hour, an immense body of +water is spread out before you; measuring a full mile across, and +nearly a hundred fathoms in depth. What this mighty stream must +be near its mouth, I can hardly imagine, for we were here upwards +of a hundred miles from the ocean. + +Such was the general aspect of the country which we had +entered;--our own position, again, was this. The three regiments +turning off from the road into one extensive green field, formed +three close columns within pistol-shot of the river. Upon our +right, but so much in advance as to be of no service to us, was a +large house, surrounded by about twenty wooden huts, probably +intended for the accommodation of slaves. Towards this house +there was a slight rise in the ground, and between it and the +camp was a small pond of no great depth. As far to the rear as +the first was to the front, stood another house, inferior in +point of appearance, and skirted by no outbuildings: this was +also upon the right; and here General Keane, who accompanied us, +fixed his head-quarters; but neither the one nor the other could +be employed as a covering redoubt, the flank of the division +extending, as it were, between them. A little way in advance, +again, where the outposts were stationed, ran a dry ditch and a +row of lofty palings; affording some cover to the front of our +line, should it be formed diagonally with the main road. The +left likewise was well secured by the river; but the right and +the rear were wholly unprotected. Though in occupying this +field, therefore, we might have looked very well had the country +kind us been friendly, it must be confessed that our situation +hardly deserved the title of a military position. + + + +CHAPTER XX. + + +NOON had just passed, when the word was given to halt, by which +means every facility was afforded of posting the piquet's leisure +and attention. Nor was this deemed enough to secure +tranquillity: parties were sent out in all directions to +reconnoitre, who returned with an account that no enemy nor any +trace of an enemy could be discerned. The troops were +accordingly suffered to light fires, and to make themselves +comfortable, only their accoutrements were not taken off, and the +were piled in such form as to be within reach at a moment's +notice. + +As soon as these agreeable orders were issued, the soldiers to +obey them both in letter and in spirit. Tearing up a number of +strong palings, large fires were lighted in a moment; water was +brought from the river, and provisions were cooked. But their +bare rations did not content them. Spreading themselves over the +country as far as a regard to safety would permit, they entered +every house, and brought away quantities of hams, fowls, and +wines of various descriptions; which being divided among them, +all fared well, and none received too large a quantity. In this +division of good things, they were not unmindful of their +officers; for upon active warfare the officers are considered by +the privates as comrades, to whom respect and obedience are due, +rather than as masters. + +It was now about three o'clock in the afternoon, and all had as +yet remained quiet. The troops having finished their meal, lay +stretched beside their fires, or refreshed themselves by bathing, +for to-day the heat was such as to render this latter employment +extremely agreeable, when suddenly a bugle from the advanced +posts sounded the alarm, which was echoed back from all in the +army. Starting up, we stood to our arms, and prepared for +battle, the alarm being now succeeded by some firing; but we were +scarcely in order, when intelligence arrived from the front that +there was no danger, only a few horse having made their +appearance, who were checked and put to flight at the first +discharge. Upon this information, our wonted confidence +returned, and we again betook ourselves to our former +occupations, remarking that, as the Americans had never yet dared +to attack, there was no great probability of their doing so on +the present occasion. + +In this manner the day passed without any further alarm; and +darkness having set in, the fires were made to blaze with +increased splendour, our evening meal was eaten, and we prepared +to sleep. But about half-past seven o'clock, the attention of +several individuals was drawn to a large vessel, which seemed to +be stealing up the river till she came opposite to our camp; when +her anchor was dropped, and her sails leisurely furled. At first +we were doubtful whether she might not be one of our own cruisers +which had passed the fort unobserved, and had arrived to render +her assistance in our future operations. To satisfy this doubt, +she was repeatedly hailed; but returning no answer, an alarm +immediately spread through the bivouac, and all thought of sleep +was laid aside. Several musket-shots were now fired at her with +the design of exacting a reply, of which no notice was taken; +till at length, having fastened all her sails, and swung her +broadside towards us, we could distinctly hear some one cry out +in a commanding voice, "Give them this for the honour of +America." The words were instantly followed by the flashes of her +guns, and a deadly shower of grape swept down numbers in the +camp. + +Against this destructive fire we had nothing whatever to oppose. +The artillery which we had landed was too light to bring into +competition with an adversary so powerful; and as she had +anchored within a short distance of the opposite bank, no +musketry could reach her with any precision or effect. A few +rockets were discharged, which made a beautiful appearance in the +air; but the rocket is at the best an uncertain weapon, and these +deviated too far from their object to produce even terror amongst +those against whom they were directed. Under these +circumstances, as nothing could be done offensively, our sole +object was to shelter the men as much as possible from the iron +hail. With this view, they were commanded to leave the fires, +and to hasten under the dyke. Thither all accordingly repaired, +without much regard to order and regularity, and laying ourselves +along wherever we could find room, we listened in painful silence +to the pattering of grape-shot among our huts, and to the shrieks +and groans of those who lay wounded beside them. + +ATTACK. + +The night was now as dark as pitch, the moon being but young, and +totally obscured with clouds. Our fires deserted by us, and beat +about by the enemy's shot, began to burn red and dull, and, +except when the flashes of those guns which played upon us cast a +momentary glare, not an object could be distinguished at the +distance of a yard. In this state we lay for nearly an hour, +unable to move from our ground, or offer any opposition to those +who kept us there; when a straggling fire of musketry called our +attention towards the piquets, and warned us to prepare for a +closer and more desperate struggle. As yet, however, it was +uncertain from what cause this dropping fire arose. It might +proceed from the sentinels, who, alarmed by the cannonade from +the river, mistook every tree for an American; and till the real +state of the case should be ascertained, it would be improper to +expose the troops by moving any of them from the shelter which +the bank afforded. But these doubts were not permitted to +continue long in existence. The dropping fire having paused for +a few moments, was succeeded by a fearful yell; and the heavens +were illuminated on all sides by a semi-circular blaze of +musketry. It was now manifest that we were surrounded, and that +by a very superior force; and that no alternative remained, +except to surrender at discretion, or to beat back the +assailants. + +The first of these plans was never for an instant thought of; the +second was immediately put into force. Rushing from under the +bank, the 85th and 95th flew to support the piquets, whilst the +4th, stealing to the rear of the encampment, formed close column, +and remained as a reserve. And now began a battle of which no +language were competent to convey any distinct idea; because it +was one to which the annals of modern warfare furnish no +parallel. All order, all discipline were lost. Each officer, as +he succeeded in collecting twenty or thirty men about him, +plunged into the midst of the enemy's ranks, where it was fought +hand to hand, bayonet to bayonet, and sabre to sabre. + +I am well aware that he who speaks of his own deeds in the field +of battle lies fairly open to the charge of seeking to make a +hero of himself in the eyes of the public; and feeling this, it +is not without reluctance that I proceed to recount the part +which I myself took in the affair of this night. But, in truth, +I must either play the egotist awhile, or leave the reader +without any details at all; inasmuch as the darkness and general +confusion effectually prevented me from observing how others, +except my own immediate party, were employed. + +Offering this as my apology for a line of conduct which I should +otherwise blush to pursue, and premising that I did nothing, in +my own person, which was not done by my comrades at least as +effectually, I go on to relate as many of the particulars of this +sanguinary conflict as came under the notice of my own senses. + +My friend Grey and myself had been supplied by our soldiers with +a couple of fowls taken from a neighbouring hen-roost, and a few +bottles of excellent claret, borrowed from the cellar of one of +the houses near. We had built ourselves a sort of hut, by piling +together, in a conical form, a number of large stakes and broad +rails torn up from one of the fences; and a bright wooden fire +was blazing at the door of it. In the wantonness of triumph, too, +we had lighted some six or eight wax-candles; a vast quantity of +which had been found in the store-rooms of the chateaux hard by; +and having done ample justice to our luxurious supper, we were +sitting in great splendour and in high spirits at the entrance of +our hut, when the alarm of the approaching schooner was +communicated to us. With the sagacity of a veteran, Grey +instantly guessed how matters stood: he was the first to hail +the suspicious stranger; and on receiving no answer to his +challenge, he was the first to fire a musket in the direction of +her anchorage. But he had scarcely done so when she opened her +broadside, causing the instantaneous abandonment of fires, +viands, and mirth throughout the bivouac. + +As we contrived to get our men tolerably well around us, Grey and +myself were among the first who rushed forth to support the +piquets and check the advance of the enemy upon the right. +Passing as rapidly as might be through the ground of encampment +amidst a shower of grape-shot from the vessel, we soon arrived at +the pond; which being forded, we found ourselves in front of the +farm-house of which I have already spoken as composing the +head-quarters of General Keane. Here we were met by a few +stragglers from the outposts, who reported that the advanced +companies were all driven in, and that a numerous division of +Americans was approaching. Having attached these fugitives to +our little corps, we pushed on, and in a few seconds reached the +lower extremity of a sloping stubble-field, at the other end of +which we could discern a long line of men, but whether they were +friends or foes the darkness would not permit ups to determine. +We called aloud for the purpose of satisfying our doubts; but the +signal being disregarded, we advanced. A heavy fire of musketry +instantly opened upon us; but so fearful was Grey of doing injury +to our own troops, that he would not permit it to be returned. +We accordingly pressed on, our men dropping by ones and twos on +every side of us, till having arrived within twenty or thirty +yards of the object of our curiosity, it became to me evident +enough that we were in front of the enemy. Grey's humane caution +still prevailed; he was not convinced, till he, should be +convinced it was but natural that he should alter his plans. +There chanced to be near the spot where we were standing a huge +dung-heap, or rather a long solid stack of stubble, behind which +we directed the men to take shelter whilst one of us should creep +forward alone, for the purpose of more completely ascertaining a +fact of which all except my brave and noble-minded comrade were +satisfied. The event proved that my sight had not deceived me: I +approached within sabre's length of the line; and having +ascertained beyond the possibility of doubt that the line was +composed of American soldiers, I returned to my friend and again +urged him to charge. But there was an infatuation upon him that +night for which I have ever been unable to account: he insisted +that I must be mistaken; he spoke of the improbability which +existed that any part of the enemy's army should have succeeded +in taking up a position in rear of the station of one of our +outposts, and he could not be persuaded that the troops now +before him were not the 95th Rifle corps. At last it was agreed +between us that we should separate; that Grey with one half of +the party should remain where he was, whilst I with the other +half should make a short detour to the right, and come down upon +the flank of the line from whose fire we had suffered so +severely. The plan was carried into immediate execution. Taking +with me about a dozen or fourteen men, I quitted Grey, and we +never met again. + +How or when he fell I know not; but, judging from the spot and +attitude in which I afterwards found his body, I conceive that my +back could have been barely turned upon him when the fatal ball +pierced his brain. He was as brave a soldier and as good a man +as the British army can boast of; beloved by his brother officers +and adored by his men. To me he was as a brother; nor have I +ceased even now to feel, as often as the 23rd of December +returns, that on that night a tie was broken than which the +progress of human life will hardly furnish one more tender or +more strong. But to my tale. + +Leaving Grey--careless as he ever was in battle of his own +person, and anxious as far as might be to secure the safety of +his followers--I led my little party in the direction agreed +upon, and fortunately falling in with about an equal number of +English riflemen, I caused them to take post beside my own men, +and turned up to the front. Springing over the paling, we found +ourselves almost at once upon the left flank of the enemy; and we +lost not a moment in attacking it. But one volley was poured in, +and then bayonets, musket-butts, sabres, and even fists, came +instantly into play. In the whole course of my military career +remember no scene at all resembling this. We fought with the +savage ferocity of bull-dogs; and many a blade which till +to-night had not drunk blood became in a few minutes crimsoned +enough. + +Such a contest could not in the nature of things be of very long +continuance. The enemy, astonished at the vigour of our assault, +soon began to waver, and their wavering was speedily converted +into flight. Nor did we give them a moment's time to recover +from their panic. With loud shouts we continued to press upon +them; and amidst the most horrible din and desperate carnage +drove them over the field and through the little village of huts, +of which notice has already been taken as surrounding the mansion +on our advanced right. Here we found a number of our own people +prisoners, and under a guard of Americans. But the guard fled as +we approached, and our countrymen catching up such weapons as +came first to hand, joined in the pursuit. + +In this spot I halted my party, increased by the late additions +to the number of forty; among whom were two gallant young +officers of the 95th. We had not yet been joined, as I expected +be joined, by Grey; and feeling that we were at least far enough +in advance of our own line, we determined to attempt nothing +further except to keep possession of the village should it +attacked. But whilst placing the men in convenient situations, +another dark line was pointed out to us considerably to the left +our position. That we might ascertain at once of what troops was +composed, I left my brother officers to complete the arrangements +which we had begun, and walking down the field, demanded in a +loud voice to be informed who they were that kept post in so +retired a situation. A voice from the throng made answer that +they were Americans, and begged of me not fire upon my friends. +Willing to deceive them still further, I asked to what corps they +belonged; the speaker replied that they were the second battalion +of the first regiment, and inquired what had become of the first +battalion. I told him that it was upon my right, and assuming a +tone of authority, commanded him not to move from his present +situation till I should join him with a party of which I was at +the head. + +The conversation ended here, and I returned to the village; when, +communicating the result of my inquiries to my comrades, we +formed our brave little band into line and determined to attack. +The men were cautioned to preserve a strict silence, and not to +fire a shot till orders were given; they observed these +injunctions, and with fixed bayonets and cautious tread advanced +along the field. As we drew near, I called aloud for the +commanding officer of the second regiment to step forward, upon +which an elderly man, armed with a heavy dragoon sabre, stepped +out of the ranks. When he discovered by our dress that we were +English, this redoubtable warrior lost all self-command; he +resigned his sword to me without a murmur, and consented at once +to believe that his battalion was surrounded, and that to offer +any resistance would but occasion a needless loss of blood. Nor +was he singular in these respects: his followers, placing +implicit reliance in our assurances that they were hemmed in on +every side by a very superior force, had actually begun to lay +down their arms, and would have surrendered, in all probability, +at discretion, but for the superior gallantry of one man. An +American officer, whose sword I demanded, instead of giving it up +as his commander had done, made a cut at my head, which with some +difficulty I managed to ward off; and a few soldiers near him, +catching ardour from his example, discharged their pieces among +our troops. The sound of firing was no sooner heard than it +became general, and as all hope of success by stratagem might now +be laid aside, we were of necessity compelled to try the effect +of violence. Again we rushed into the middle of the throng, and +again was the contest that of man to man, in close and desperate +strife; till a panic arising among the Americans, they dispersed +in all directions and left us masters of the field. + +In giving a detail so minute of my own adventures this night, I +beg to repeat what has been stated already, that I have no wish +whatever to persuade my readers that I was one whit more cool or +more daring than my companions. Like them I was driven to +depend, from first to last, upon my own energies; and I believe +the energies of few men fail them when they are satisfied that on +them alone they must depend. Nor was the case different with my +comrades. Attacked unexpectedly, and in the dark, surrounded, +too, by a numerous enemy, and one who spoke the same language with +ourselves, it is not to be wondered at if the order and routine of +civilised warfare were everywhere set at nought. Each man who +felt disposed to command was obeyed by those who stood near +him, without any question being asked as to his authority; and +more feats of individual gallantry were performed in this +single night than many regular campaigns might furnish an +opportunity to perform. + +The night was far spent, and the sound of firing had begun to wax +faint, when, checking the ardour of our brave followers, we +collected them once more together and fell back into the village. +Here likewise considerable numbers from other detachments +assembled, and here we learned that the Americans were repulsed +on every side. The combat had been long and obstinately +contested: it began at eight o'clock in the evening and continued +till three in the morning--but the victory was ours. True, it +was the reverse of a bloodless one, not fewer than two hundred +fifty of our best men having fallen in the struggle: but even +at the expense of such a loss, we could not but account ourselves +fortunate in escaping from the snare in which we had confessedly +taken. + +To me, however, the announcement of the victory brought no +rejoicing, for it was accompanied with the intelligence that my +friend was among the killed. I well recollect the circumstances +under which these sad news reached me. I was standing with a +sword in each hand--my own and that of the officer who had +surrendered to me, and, as the reader may imagine, in no bad +humour with myself or with the brave fellows about me, when a +brother officer stepping forward abruptly told the tale. It came +me upon me like a thunderbolt; and casting aside my trophy, +thought only of the loss which I had sustained. Regardless of +every other matter I ran to the rear, and found Grey lying behind +the dung-heap, motionless and cold. A little pool of blood which +had coagulated under his head, pointed out the spot where the +ball had entered, and the position of his limbs gave proof that +he must have died without a struggle. I cannot pretend to +describe what were then my sensations, but of whatever nature +they might be, little time was given for their indulgence; the +bugle sounding the alarm, I was compelled to leave him as he lay, +and to join my corps. Though the alarm proved to be a false one, +it had the good effect of bringing all the troops together, by +which means a regular line was now, for the first time since the +commencement of the action, formed. In this order, having +defiled considerably to the left, so as to command the highway, +we stood in front of our bivouac till dawn began to appear; when, +to avoid the fire of the schooner, we once more moved to the +river's bank and lay down. Here, during the whole of the +succeeding day, the troops were kept shivering in the cold frosty +air, without fires, without provisions, and exhausted with +fatigue; nor was it till the return of night that any attempt to +extricate them from their comfortless situation could be made. + +FIELD OF BATTLE. + +Whilst others were thus reposing, I stole away with two or three +men for the purpose of performing the last sad act of affection +which it was possible for me to perform to my friend Grey. As we +had completely changed our ground, it was not possible for me at +once to discover the spot where he lay; indeed I traversed a +large portion of the field before I hit upon it. Whilst thus +wandering over the arena of last night's contest, the most +shocking and most disgusting spectacles everywhere met my eyes. +I have frequently beheld a greater number of dead bodies within +as narrow a compass, though these, to speak the truth, were +numerous enough, but wounds more disfiguring or more horrible I +certainly never witnessed. A man shot through the head or heart +lies as if he were in a deep slumber; insomuch that when you gaze +upon him you experience little else than pity. But of these, +many had met their deaths from bayonet wounds, sabre cuts, or +heavy blows from the butt ends of muskets; and the consequence +was, that not only were the wounds themselves exceedingly +frightful, but the very countenances of the dead exhibited the +most savage and ghastly expressions. Friends and foes lay +together in small groups of four or six, nor was it difficult to +tell almost the very hand by which some of them had fallen. Nay, +such had been the deadly closeness of the strife, that in one or +two places an English and American soldier might be seen with the +bayonet of each fastened in the other's body. + +Having searched for some time in vain, I at length discovered +friend lying where during the action we had separated, and where, +when the action came to a close, I had at first found him, shot +through the temples by a rifle bullet so remarkably small as +scarcely to leave any trace of its progress. I am well aware +that this is no fit place to introduce the working of my own +personal feelings, but he was my friend, and such a friend as few +men are happy enough to possess. We had known and loved each +other for years; our regard had been cemented by a long +participation in the same hardships and dangers, and it cannot; +therefore surprise, if even now I pay that tribute to his worth +and our friendship which, however unavailing it may be, they both +deserve. + +When in the act of looking for him I had flattered myself that I +should be able to bear his loss with something like philosophy, +but when I beheld him pale and bloody, I found all my resolution +evaporate. I threw myself on the ground beside him and wept, +like a child. But this was no time for the indulgence of useless +sorrow. Like the royal bard, I knew that I should to him, but he +could not return to me, and I knew not whether an hour would pass +before my summons might arrive. Lifting him therefore upon a +cart, I had him carried down to head-quarter house, now converted +into an hospital, and having dug for him a grave at the bottom of +the garden, I laid him there as a soldier should be laid, +arrayed, not in a shroud, but in his uniform. Even the privates +whom I brought with me to assist at his funeral mingled their +tears with mine, nor are many so fortunate as to return to the +parent dust more deeply or more sincerely lamented. + +FIELD OF BATTLE--HOSPITAL. + +Retiring from the performance of this melancholy duty, I strolled +into the hospital and visited the wounded. It is here that war +loses its grandeur and show, and presents only a real picture of +its effects. Every room in the house was crowded with wretches +mangled, and apparently in the most excruciating agonies. +Prayers, groans, and, I grieve to add, the most horrid +exclamations, smote upon the ear wherever I turned. Some lay at +length upon straw, with eyes half closed and limbs motionless; +some endeavoured to start up, shrieking with pain, while the +wandering eye and incoherent speech of others indicated the loss +of reason, and usually foretold the approach of death. But +there was one among the rest whose appearance was too horrible +ever to be forgotten. He had been shot through the windpipe, +and the breath making its way between the skin and the flesh had +dilated him to a size absolutely terrific. His head and face were +particularly shocking. Every feature was enlarged beyond what can +well be imagined; whilst his eyes were so completely hidden by +the cheeks and forehead as to destroy all resemblance to a human +countenance. + +Passing through the apartments where the private soldiers lay, +I next came to those occupied by officers. Of these there +were five or six in one small room, to whom little better +accommodation could be provided than to their inferiors. It was +a sight peculiarly distressing, because all of them chanced to be +personal acquaintances of my own. One had been shot in the head, +and lay gasping and insensible; another had received a musket- +ball in the belly, which had pierced through and lodged in the +backbone. The former appeared to suffer but little, giving no +signs of life, except what a heavy breathing produced; the latter +was in the most dreadful agony, screaming out, and gnawing the +covering under which he lay. There were many besides these, some +severely and others slightly hurt; but as I have already dwelt at +sufficient length upon a painful subject, I shall only observe, +that to all was afforded every assistance which circumstances +would allow, and that the exertions of their medical attendants +were such as deserved and obtained the grateful thanks of even +the most afflicted among the sufferers themselves. + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +ADVANCE. + +IN the mean time the rest of the troops were landing as fast as +possible, and hastening to join their comrades. Though the +advance had set out from Pine Island by themselves, they did not +occupy all the boats in the fleet. Part of the second brigade, +therefore, had embarked about twelve hours after their departure; +and rowing leisurely on, were considerably more than half way +across the lakes when the action began. In the stillness of +night, however, it is astonishing at what distance a noise is +heard. Though they must have been at least twenty miles from +the Bayo when the schooner first opened her fire, the sound +reaching them roused the rowers from their indolence, who, pulling +with all their might, hurried on, whilst the most profound silence +reigned among the troops, and, gaining the creek in little more an +three hours, sent fresh reinforcements to share in the danger and +glory of the night. + +Nor was a moment lost by the sailors in returning to the island. +Intelligence of the combat spread like wildfire; the boats were +loaded even beyond what was strictly safe, and thus, by exerting +themselves in a degree almost unparalleled, our gallant seamen +succeeded in bringing the whole army into position before dark on +the 24th. The second and third brigades, therefore, now took up +their ground upon the spot where the late battle had been fought, +and, resting their right upon the woody morass, extended so far +towards the river, as that the advance by by wheeling up might +continue the line across the entire plain. + +But instead of taking part in this formation, the advance was +still fettered to the bank, from which it was additionally +prevented from moving by the arrival of another large ship, +which, cast anchor about a mile above the schooner. Thus were +three battalions kept stationary by the guns of these two +formidable floating batteries, and it was clear that no attempt +to extricate them could be made without great loss, unless under +cover of night. During the whole of the 24th, therefore, they +remained in this uncomfortable situation; but as soon as darkness +had well set in, a change of position was effected. Withdrawing +the troops, company by company, from behind the bank, General +Keane stationed them in the village of huts, by which means the +high road was abandoned to the protection of a piquet, and the +left of the army covered by a large chateau. + +Being now placed beyond risk of serious annoyance from the +shipping whole army remained quiet for the night. How long we +were to continue in this state nobody appeared to know; not +whisper was circulated as to the time of advancing, nor a surmise +ventured respecting the next step likely to be taken. In our to +whose rumours we had before listened with avidity, no confidence +was reposed. It was quite evident, either that they had +purposely deceived us, or that their information was gathered +from a most imperfect source; and hence, though they were not +exactly placed in confinement, they were strictly watched, and +treated more like spies than deserters. Instead of an easy +conquest, we had already met with a vigorous opposition; instead +of finding the inhabitants ready and eager to join us, we found +the houses deserted, the cattle and horses driven away, and every +appearance of hostility. To march by the only road was rendered +impracticable; so completely was it commanded by the shipping. +In a word, all things had turned out diametrically opposite to +what had been anticipated; and it appeared that, instead of a +trifling affair more likely to fill our pockets than to add to +our renown, we had embarked in an undertaking which presented +difficulties not to be surmounted without patience and +determination. + +Having effected this change of position, and covered the front of +his army with a strong chain of outposts, General Keane, as I +have said, remained quiet during the remainder of the night, and +on the morrow was relieved from further care and responsibility +by the unexpected arrival of Sir Edward Pakenham and General +Gibbs. As soon as the death of Ross was known in London, the +former of these officers was dispatched to take upon himself the +command of the army. Sailing immediately with the latter as his +second in command, he had been favoured during the whole voyage +by a fresh and fair wind, and now arrived in time to see his +troops brought into a predicament from which all his abilities +could scarcely expect to extricate them. Nor were the troops +themselves ignorant of the unfavourable circumstances in which +they stood. Hoping everything, therefore, from a change, they +greeted their new leader with a hearty cheer; whilst the +confidence which past events had tended in some degree to dispel, +returned once more to the bosoms of all. It was Christmas-day, +and a number of officers, clubbing their little stock of +provisions, resolved to dine together in memory of former times. +But at so melancholy a Christmas dinner I do not recollect at any +time to have been present. We dined in a barn; of plates, +knives, and forks, there was a dismal scarcity; nor could our +fare boast of much either in intrinsic good quality or in the way +of cooking. These, however, were mere matters of merriment; it +was the want of many well-known and beloved faces that gave us +pain; nor were any other subjects discussed besides the amiable +qualities of those who no longer formed part of our mess, and +never would again form part of it. A few guesses as to the +probable success of future attempts alone relieved this topic, +and now and then a shot from the schooner drew our attention to +ourselves; for though too far removed from the river to be in +much danger, we were still within cannon-shot of our enemy. Nor +was she inactive in her attempts to molest. Elevating her guns +to a great degree, she contrived occasionally to strike the wall +of the building within which we sat; but the force of the ball +was too far spent to penetrate, and could therefore produce no +serious alarm. + +Whilst we were thus sitting at table a loud shriek was heard +after one of these explosions, and on running out we found that a +shot had taken effect in the body of an unfortunate soldier. I +mention this incident because I never beheld in any human being +so great a tenacity of life. Though fairly cut in two at the +lower part of the belly, the poor wretch lived for nearly an +hour, gasping for breath and giving signs even of pain. + +But to return to my narrative. As soon as he reached the camp +Sir Edward proceeded to examine with a soldier's eye every point +and place within view. Of the American army nothing, whatever +could be perceived except a corps of observation, composed of +five or six hundred mounted riflemen, which hovered along our +front and watched our motions. The town itself was completely +hid; nor was it possible to see beyond the distance of a very few +miles either in front or rear, so flat and unbroken was the face +of the country. Under these circumstances little insight into +the state of affairs could be obtained by reconnoitring. The +only, thing, indeed, which he could learn from it was, that while +the vessels kept their present station upon river no advance +could be made; and as he felt that every moment's delay was +injurious to us and favourable to the enemy, he resolved to remove +these incumbrances and to push forward as soon as possible. + +With this view nine field-pieces, two howitzers, and one mortar +were brought down to the brink of the stream as soon as it dark. +Working parties were likewise ordered out, by whom was thrown up +opposite to the schooner; and having got all things in readiness, +at dawn on the 26th a heavy cannonade was opened upon her with +red-hot shot. It was not long before we could perceive her crew +hastening into their boats, whilst the smoke which began to rise +from her decks proved that the balls had taken effect. She was, +in fact, on fire, and being abandoned without resistance, in +little more than an hour she blew up. In itself the sight was a +fine one, but to us it was peculiarly gratifying, for we could +not but experience something like satiated revenge at the +destruction of a vessel from which we had suffered so much +damage. A loud shout accordingly followed the explosion, and the +guns were immediately turned against the ship. But the fate of +her companion had warned her not to remain till she herself +should be attacked. Setting every inch of canvas, and hoisting +out her boats, she began, to stem the stream at the very instant +the schooner took fire, and being impelled forward both by towing +and sailing, she succeeded in getting beyond the range of shot +before the guns could be brought to bear. One shell, however, +was thrown with admirable precision, which falling upon her deck +caused considerable execution; but excepting this, she escaped +without injury, and did not anchor again till she had got too far +for pursuit. + +Having thus removed all apparent obstacles to his future +progress, the General made dispositions for a speedy advance. +Dividing the army into two columns, he appointed General Gibbs to +the command of one, and General Keane to the command of the +other. The left column, led on by the latter officer, consisted +of the 95th, the 85th, the 93rd, and one black corps; the right, +of the 4th, 21st, 44th, and the other black corps. The +artillery, of which we had now ten pieces in the field, though +at present attached to the left column, was designed to act as +circumstances and the nature of the ground would permit; whilst +the dragoons, few of whom had as yet provided themselves with +horses, were appointed to guard the hospitals, and to secure the +wounded from any sudden surprise or molestation from the rear. + +But the day was too far spent in making these arrangements, and +in clearing the way for future operations, to permit any movement +before the morrow. The whole of the 26th was therefore spent in +bringing up stores, ammunition, and a few heavy guns from the +ships, which being placed in battery upon the banks of the river, +secured us against the return of our floating adversary. All +this was done quietly enough, nor was there any cause of alarm +till after sunset; but from that time till towards dawn, we were +kept in a constant state of anxiety and agitation. Sending down +small bodies of riflemen, the American General harassed our +piquets, killed and wounded a few of the sentinels, and prevented +the main body from obtaining any sound refreshing sleep. +Scarcely had the troops lain down when they were roused by a +sharp firing at the outposts, which lasted only till they were in +order, and then ceased; but as soon as they had dispersed and had +once more addressed themselves to repose, the same cause of alarm +returned, and they were again called to their ranks. Thus was +the entire night spent in watching, or at best in broken and +disturbed slumbers, than which nothing is more trying, both to +the health and spirits of an army. + +With the piquets, again, it fared even worse. For the outposts +of an army to sleep is at all times considered as a thing +impossible; but in modern and civilized warfare they are +nevertheless looked upon as in some degree sacred. Thus, whilst +two European armies remain inactively facing each other, the +outposts of neither are molested, unless a direct attack upon the +main body be intended; nay, so far is this tacit good +understanding carried, that I have myself seen French and English +sentinels not more than twenty yards apart. But the Americans +entertained no such chivalric notions. An enemy was to them an +enemy, whether alone or in the midst of five thousand companions; +and they therefore counted the death of every individual as so +much taken from the strength of the whole. In point of fact they +no doubt reasoned correctly, but to us at least it appeared an +ungenerous return to barbarity. Whenever they could approach +unperceived within proper distance of our watch-fires, six or +eight riflemen would fire amongst the party that sat around them, +while one or two, stealing as close to each sentinel as a regard +to their own safety would permit, acted the part of assassins +rather than that of soldiers, and attempted to murder him in cold +blood. For the officers, likewise, when going their rounds, they +constantly lay in wait, and thus, by a continued dropping fire, +they not only wounded some of those against whom their aim was +directed, but occasioned considerable anxiety and uneasiness +throughout the whole line. + +It was on this night, and under these circumstances, that I was +indebted to the vigilance of my faithful dog for my life. Amid +all the bustle of landing, and throughout the tumult of the +nocturnal battle, she never strayed from me; at least if she did +lose me for a time, she failed not to trace me out again as soon +as order was restored, for I found her by my side when the dawn +of the 24th came in, and I never lost sight of her afterwards. +It was my fortune on the night of the 26th to be put in charge of +an outpost on the left front of the army; on such occasions I +seldom experienced the slightest inclination to sleep; and on the +present, I made it a point to visit my sentinels at least once in +every, half-hour. Going my rounds for this purpose, it was +necessary that I should pass a little copse of low underwood, +just outside the line of our videttes; and I did pass it again +and again, without meeting with any adventure. But about an hour +after midnight, my dog, which, as usual, trotted a few paces +before me, suddenly stopped short at the edge of the thicket, and +began to bark violently, and in great apparent anger. I knew the +animal well enough to be aware that some cause must exist for +such conduct; and I too stopped short, till I should ascertain +whether danger were near. It was well for me that I had been +thus warned; for at the instant of my halting, about half a dozen +muskets were discharged from the copse, the muzzles of which, had +I taken five steps forward, must have touched my body. The balls +whizzed harmlessly past my head; and, on my returning the fire +with the pistol which I carried in my hand, the ambuscade broke +up, and the party composing it took to their heels. I was +Quixote enough to dash sword in hand into the thicket after them: +but no one waited for me; so I continued my perambulations in +peace. + +MARCH. + +Having continued this detestable system of warfare till towards +morning, the enemy retired and left us at rest. But as soon as +day began to break, our piquets were called in, and the troops +formed in order of attack. The right column, under General +Gibbs, took post near the skirts of the morass, throwing out +skirmishers half way across the plain, whilst the left column +drew up upon the road covered by the rifle corps, which in +extended order met the skirmishers from the other. With this last +division went the artillery, already well supplied with +horses; and, at the signal given the whole moved forward. + +It was a clear frosty morning, the mists had dispersed, and the +sun shone brightly upon our arms when we began our march. The +enemy's corps of observation fell back as we advanced, without +offering in any way to impede our progress, and it was impossible +to guess, ignorant as we were of the position of his main body, +at what moment opposition might be expected. Nor, in truth, was +it matter of much anxiety. Our spirits, in spite of the troubles +of the night, were good, and our expectations of success were +high, consequently many rude jests were bandied about, and many +careless words spoken: for soldiers are, of all classes of men, +the freest from care, and on that account, perhaps, the most +happy. By being continually exposed to it, danger, with them, +ceases to be frightful; of death they have no more terror than the +beasts that perish; and even hardships, such as cold, wet, +hunger, and broken rest, lose at least part of their +disagreeableness, by the frequency of their recurrence. + +Moving on in this merry mood, we advanced about four or five +miles without the smallest check or hindrance; when, at length, +we found ourselves in view of the enemy's army, posted in a very +advantageous manner. About forty yards in their front was a +canal, which extended from the morass to within a short distance +of the high road. Along their line were thrown up breastworks, +not indeed completed, but even now formidable. Upon the road at +several other points were erected powerful batteries; whilst the +ship, with a large flotilla of gun-boats, flanked the whole +position from the river. + +ATTACK. + +When I say that we came in sight of the enemy, I do not mean that +he was gradually exposed to us in such a manner as to leave time +for cool examination and reflection. On the right, indeed, he +was seen for some time, but on the left a few houses built at a +turning in the road entirely concealed him; nor was it till they +gained that turning, and beheld the muzzles of his guns pointed +towards them, that those who moved in this direction were aware +of their proximity to danger. But that danger was indeed near +they were quickly taught; for scarcely had the head of the column +passed the houses when a deadly fire was opened from both the +battery and the shipping. That the Americans are excellent +marksmen, as well with artillery as with rifles, we have had +frequent cause to acknowledge; but, perhaps, on no occasion did +they assert their claim to the title of good artillery-men more +effectually than on the present. Scarce a ball passed over or +fell short of its mark, but all striking full into the midst of +our ranks, occasioned terrible havoc. The shrieks of the +wounded, therefore, the crash of firelocks, and the fall of such +as were killed; caused at first some little confusion; and what +added to the panic was, that from the houses beside which we +stood bright flames suddenly burst out. The Americans, expecting +this attack, had filled them with combustibles for the purpose; +and directing against them one or two guns, loaded with red-hot +shot, in an instant set them on fire. The scene was altogether +very sublime. A tremendous cannonade mowed down our ranks, and +deafened us with its roar; whilst two large chateaux and their +outbuildings almost scorched us with the flames, and blinded us +with the smoke which they emitted. + +The infantry, however, was not long suffered to remain thus +exposed; but being ordered to quit the path and to form line in +the fields, the artillery was brought up, and opposed to that of +the enemy. But the contest was in every respect unequal, since +their artillery far exceeded ours, both in numerical strength and +weight of metal. The consequence was, that in half an hour two +of our field-pieces and one field-mortar were dismounted: many of +the gunners were killed; and the rest, after an ineffectual +attempt to silence the fire of the shipping, were obliged to +retire. + +In the mean time the infantry having formed line, advanced under +a heavy discharge of round and grape shot, till they were checked +by the appearance of the canal. Of its depth they were of course +ignorant, and to attempt its passage without having ascertained +whether it could be forded might have been productive of fatal +consequences. A halt was accordingly ordered, and the men were +commanded to shelter themselves as well as they could from the +enemy's fire. For this purpose they were hurried into a wet +ditch, of sufficient depth to cover the knees, where, leaning +forward, they concealed themselves behind some high rushes which +grew upon its brink, and thus escaped many bullets which fell +around them in all directions. + +RETREAT. + +Thus fared it with the left of the army, whilst the right, though +less exposed to the cannonade, was not more successful in its +object. The same impediment which checked one column forced the +other likewise to pause; and after having driven in an advanced +body of the enemy, and endeavoured, without effect, to penetrate +through the marsh, it also was commanded to halt. In a word, all +thought of attacking was for this day abandoned; and it now only +remained to withdraw the troops from their present perilous +situation, with as little loss as possible. + +The first thing to be done was to remove the dismounted guns. +Upon this enterprise a party of seamen were employed, who, +running forward to the spot where they lay, lifted them, in spite +of the whole of the enemy's fire, and bore them off in triumph. +As soon as this was effected, regiment after regiment stole away; +not in a body, but one by one, under the same discharge which +saluted their approach. But a retreat thus conducted necessarily +occupied much time. Noon had therefore long passed before the +last corps was brought off; and when we again began to muster +twilight was approaching. We did not, however, retire to our +former position; but having fallen back only about two miles from +the canal, where it was supposed that we should be beyond reach +of annoyance from the American artillery, we there established +ourselves for the night, having suffered less during the day than, +from our exposed situation and the enemy's heavy fire, might have +been expected. + +The ground which we now occupied resembled, in almost every +particular, that which we had quitted. We again extended across +the plain, from the marsh to the river; no wood or cover of any +description concealing our line, or obstructing the view of either +army; while both in front and rear was an open space, laid out in +fields and intersected by narrow ditches. Our outposts, however +were pushed forward to some houses within a few hundred yards of +the enemy's works, sending out advanced sentinels even farther; +and the head-quarters of the army were established near the spot +where the action of the 23rd had been fought. + +PREPARATIONS. + +In this state we remained during the 28th, the 29th, and 30th, +without any efforts being made to fortify our own position, or to +annoy that of the enemy. Some attempts were, I believe, set on +foot to penetrate into the wood on the right of our line, and to +discover a path through the morass, by which the enemy's left +might be turned. But all of these proved fruitless, and a few +valuable lives having been sacrificed, the idea was finally laid +aside. In the meanwhile the American General directed the whole +of his attention to the strengthening of his post. Day and night +we could observe numerous parties at work upon his lines, whilst +from the increased number of tents, which almost every hour might +be discerned, it was evident that strong reinforcements were +continually pouring into his camp. Nor did he leave us totally +unmolested. By giving to his guns a great degree of elevation, +he contrived at last to reach our bivouac; and thus were we +constantly under a cannonade which, though it did little +execution, proved nevertheless extremely annoying. Besides this, +he now began to erect batteries on the opposite bank of the +river; from which a flanking fire could be thrown across the +entire front of his position. In short, he adopted every +precaution which prudence could suggest, and for the reception of +which the nature of his ground was so admirably adapted. + +Under these circumstances it was evident that the longer an +attack was delayed the less likely was it to succeed; that +something must be done immediately every one perceived, but how +to proceed was the difficulty. If we attempted to storm the +American lines, we should expose ourselves to almost certain +destruction from their artillery; to turn them was impossible; +and to draw their troops by any manoeuvring from behind their +entrenchments was a thing altogether out of the question. There +seemed therefore to be but one practicable mode of assault; which +was, to treat these field-works as one would treat a regular +fortification; by erecting breaching batteries against them, and +silencing, if it were possible, at least some of their guns. To +this plan, therefore, our leader had recourse; and, in +consequence, the whole of these three days were employed in +landing heavy cannon, bringing up ammunition, and making such +preparations as might have sufficed for a siege. + +At length, having completed his arrangements, and provided such +means as were considered sufficient to ensure success, General +Pakenham determined to commence operations without delay. One +half of the army was accordingly ordered out on the night of the +31st, and marched to the front, passing the piquets, and halting +about three hundred yards from the enemy's line. Here it was +resolved to throw up a chain of works; and here the greater part +of this detachment, laying down their firelocks, applied +themselves vigorously to their tasks, whilst the rest stood +armed and prepared for their defence. + +The night was dark, and our people maintained a profound silence; +by which means, not an idea of what was going on existed in the +American camp. As we laboured, too, with all diligence, six +batteries were completed long before dawn, in which were mounted +thirty pieces of heavy cannon; when, falling back a little way, +we united ourselves to the remainder of the infantry, and lay +down behind some rushes, in readiness to act, as soon as we +should be wanted. + +In the erection of these batteries, a circumstance occurred +worthy of notice, on account of its singularity. I have already +stated that the whole of this district was covered with the +stubble of sugar-cane; and I might have added, that every +storehouse and barn, attached to the different mansions scattered +over it, was filled with barrels of sugar. In throwing up these +works, the sugar was used instead of earth. Rolling the +hogsheads towards the front, they were placed upright in the +parapets of batteries; and it was computed that sugar to the +value of many thousand pounds sterling was thus disposed of. + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +PREPARATIONS--ATTACK. + +THE infantry having retired, and the gunners taken their station, +dawn was anxiously expected. But the morning of the 1st of January +chanced to be peculiarly gloomy. A thick haze obscured for a +long time the rays of the sun, nor could objects be discerned +with any accuracy till a late hour. + +But at length the mist gave way, and the American camp was fully +exposed to view. Being at this time only three hundred yards +distant, we could perceive all that was going forward with great +exactness. The different regiments were upon parade; and being +dressed in holiday suits, presented really a fine appearance. +Mounted officers were riding backwards and forwards through the, +ranks, bands were playing, and colours floating in the air; in a +word, all seemed jollity and gala; when suddenly our batteries +opened, and the face of affairs was instantly changed. The ranks +were broken; the different corps dispersing, fled in all +directions, whilst the utmost terror and disorder appeared to +prevail. Instead of nicely-dressed lines, nothing but confused +crowds could now be observed; nor was it without much difficulty +that order was finally restored. Oh, that we had charged at that +instant! + +RETREAT--PAUSE. + +Whilst this consternation prevailed among the infantry, their +artillery remained silent; but as soon as the former rallied, +they also recovered confidence, and answered our salute with +great rapidity and precision. A heavy cannonade quickly commenced +on both sides, and continued during the whole of the day; till, +towards evening, our ammunition began to fail, and our fire in +consequence to slacken. The fire of the Americans, on the other +hand, was redoubled: landing a number of guns from the flotilla, +they increased their artillery to a prodigious amount; and +directing at the same time the whole force of their cannon on the +opposite bank against the flank of our batteries, they soon +convinced us that all endeavours to surpass them in this mode of +fighting would be useless. Once more, therefore, were we obliged +to retire, leaving our heavy guns to their fate; but as no +attempt was made by the Americans to secure them, working parties +were again sent out after dark, and such as had not been +destroyed were removed. + +Of the fatigue undergone during these operations by the whole +army, from the General down to the meanest sentinel, it would be +difficult to form an adequate conception. For two whole nights +and days not a man had closed an eye, except such as were cool +enough to sleep amidst showers of cannon-ball; and during the day +scarcely a moment had been allowed in which we were able so much +as to break our fast. We retired, therefore, not only baffled +and disappointed, but in some degree disheartened and +discontented. All our plans had as yet proved abortive; even +this, upon which so much reliance had been placed, was found to +be of no avail; and it must be confessed that something like +murmuring began to be heard through the camp. And, in truth, if +ever an army might be permitted to murmur, it was this. In +landing they had borne great hardships, not only without +repining, but with cheerfulness; their hopes had been excited by +false reports, as to the practicability of the attempt in which +they were embarked; and now they found themselves entangled +amidst difficulties from which there appeared to be no escape, +except by victory. In their attempts upon the enemy's line, +however, they had been twice foiled; in artillery they perceived +themselves to be so greatly overmatched, that their own could +hardly assist them; their provisions, being derived wholly from +the fleet, were both scanty and coarse; and their rest was +continually broken. For not only did the canon and mortars from +the main of the enemy's position play unremittingly upon them +both by day and night, but they were likewise exposed to a deadly +fire from the opposite bank of the river, where no less than +eighteen pieces of artillery were now mounted, and swept the +entire line of our encampment. Besides all this, to undertake +the duty of a piquet was as dangerous as to go into action. +Parties of American sharpshooters harassed and disturbed those +appointed to that service from the time they took possession of +their post till they were relieved; whilst to light fires at +night was impossible, because they served but as certain marks +for the enemy's gunners. I repeat, therefore, that a little +murmuring could not be wondered at. Be it observed, however, +that these were not the murmurs of men anxious to escape from a +disagreeable situation by any means. On the contrary, they +resembled rather the growling of a chained dog, when he sees his +adversary and cannot reach him; for in all their complaints, no +man ever hinted at a retreat, whilst all were eager to bring +matters to the issue of a battle, at any sacrifice of loves. + +Nor was our gallant leader less anxious to fight than his +followers. To fight upon something like equal terms was, +however, his wish; and for this purpose a new scheme was +invented, worthy, for its boldness, of the school in which Sir +Edward had studied his profession. It was determined to divide +the army, to send part across the river, who should seize the +enemy's guns, and turn them on themselves; whilst the remainder +should at time make a general assault along the whole +entrenchment. But before this plan could be put into execution, +it would be necessary to cut a canal across the entire neck of +land from the Bayo de Catiline to the river, of sufficient width +and depth to admit of boats being brought up from the lake. Upon +this arduous undertaking were the troops immediately employed. +Being divided into four companies, they laboured by turns, day +and night; one party relieving another after a stated number of +hours, in such order as that the work should never be entirely +deserted. The fatigue undergone during the prosecution of this +attempt no words can sufficiently describe; yet it was pursued +without repining, and at length, by unremitting exertions, they +succeeded in effecting their purpose by the 6th of January. + +Whilst these things were going on, and men's minds were anxiously +turned towards approaching events, fresh spirit was given to the +army by the unexpected arrival of Major-General Lambert, with +the 7th and 43rd; two fine battalions, mustering each 800 +effective men. By this reinforcement, together with the addition +of a body of sailors and marines from the fleet, our numbers +amounted now to little short of 6000 men; a force which, in +almost any other quarter of America, would have been +irresistible. Of the numbers of the enemy, again, various +reports were in circulation; some stating them at 20,000, others +at 30,000; but I believe that I come nearer the truth when I +suppose their whole force to have comprised 12,000 men of all +arms. It is, at least, certain that they exceeded us in numbers +as much as they did in resources; and that scarcely an hour +passed which did not bring in new levies to their camp. + +The canal, as I have stated, being finished on the 6th, it was +resolved to lose no time in making use of it. Boats were +accordingly ordered up for the transportation of 1400 men; and +Colonel Thornton, with the 85th regiment, the marines, and a +party of sailors, was appointed to cross the river. But a number +of untoward accidents occurred, to spoil a plan of operations as +accurately laid down as any in the course of the war. The soil +through which the canal was dug being soft, part of the bank gave +way, and, choking up the channel, prevented the heaviest of the +boats from getting forward. These again blocked up the passage, +so that none of those which were behind could proceed; and thus, +instead of a flotilla for the accommodation of 1400 men, only a +number of boats sufficient to contain 350 was enabled to reach +their destination. Even these did not arrive at the time +appointed. According to the preconcerted plan, Colonel +Thornton's detachment was to cross the river immediately after +dark. They were to push forward, so as to carry all the +batteries, and point the guns before daylight; when, on the +throwing up of a rocket, they were to commence firing upon the +enemy's line, which at the same moment was to be attacked by the +main off our army. + +In this manner was one part of the force to act, whilst the rest +thus appointed:--Dividing his troops into three columns, Sir +Edward directed that General Keane, at the head of the 95th, the +light companies of the 21st, 4th, and 44th, together with the two +black corps, should make a demonstration, or sham attack, upon +the right; that General Gibbs, with the 4th, 21st, 44th, and +93rd, should force the enemy's left, whilst General Lambert, with +the 7th and 43rd, remained in reserve, ready to act as +circumstances might require. But in storming an entrenched +position, something more than bare courage is required. Scaling +ladders and fascines had, therefore, been prepared, with which to +fill up the ditch and mount the wall; and since to carry these a +service of danger, requiring a corps well worthy of dependence, +the 44th was for that purpose selected, as a regiment of +sufficient numerical strength, and already accustomed to American +warfare. Thus were all things arranged on the night the 7th, for +the 8th was fixed upon as the day decisive of the fate of New Orleans. + +ATTACK. + +Whilst the rest of the army lay down to sleep till they should be +roused up to fight, Colonel Thornton, with the 85th, and a corps +of marines and seamen, amounting in all to 1400 men, moved down +to the brink of the river. As yet, however, no boats had +arrived; hour after hour elapsed before they came; and when they +did come, the misfortunes which I have stated above were +discovered, for out of all that had been ordered up, only a few +made their appearance. Still it was absolutely necessary that +this part of the plan should be carried into execution. +Dismissing, therefore, the rest of his followers, the Colonel +put himself at the head of his own regiment, about fifty seamen, +and as many marines, and with this small force, consisting of no +[on] 340 men, pushed off. But, unfortunately, the loss of time +nothing could repair. Instead of reaching the opposite bank at +latest by midnight, dawn was beginning to appear before the boats +quitted the canal. It was in vain that they rowed on in perfect +silence, and with oars muffled, gaining the point of debarkation +without being perceived. It was in vain that they made good +their landing and formed upon the beach, without opposition or +alarm; day had already broke, and the signal-rocket was seen in +the air, while they were yet four miles from the batteries, which +ought hours ago to have been taken. + +In the mean time, the main body armed and moved forward some way +in front of the piquets. There they stood waiting for daylight, +and listening with the greatest anxiety for the firing which +ought now to be heard on the opposite bank. But their attention +was exerted in vain, and day dawned upon them long before they +desired its appearance. Nor was Sir Edward Pakenham disappointed +in this part of his plan alone. Instead of perceiving everything +in readiness for the assault, he saw his troops in battle array, +but not a ladder or fascine upon the field. The 44th, which was +appointed to carry them, had either misunderstood or neglected +their orders; and now headed the column of attack, without any +means being provided for crossing the enemy's ditch or scaling +his rampart. + +The indignation of our brave leader on this occasion may be +imagined, but cannot be described. Galloping towards Colonel +Mullens, who led the 44th, he commanded him instantly to return +with his regiment for the ladders, but the opportunity of +planting them was lost, and though they were brought up, it was +only to be scattered over the field by the frightened bearers. +For our troops were by this time visible to the enemy. A +dreadful fire was accordingly opened upon them, and they were +mowed down by hundreds, while they stood waiting for orders. + +Seeing that all his well-laid plans were frustrated, Pakenham +gave the word to advance, and the other regiments, leaving the +44th with the ladders and fascines behind them, rushed on to the +assault. On the left, a detachment under Colonel Rennie, of the +21st regiment, stormed a three-gun battery, and took it. Here +they remained for some time in expectation of support; but none +arriving, and a strong column of the enemy forming for its +recovery, they determined to anticipate the attack, and pushed +on. The battery which they had taken was in advance of the body +of the works, being cut off from it by a ditch, across which only +a single plank was thrown. Along this plank did these brave men +attempt to pass; but being opposed by overpowering numbers, they +were repulsed; and the Americans, in turn, forcing their way into +the battery, at length succeeded in recapturing it with immense +slaughter. On the right, again, the 21st and 4th, supported by +the 93rd, though thrown into some confusion by the enemy's fire, +pushed on with desperate gallantry to the ditch; but to scale the +parapet without ladders was a work of no slight difficulty. Some +few, indeed, by mounting one upon another's shoulders, succeeded +in entering the works, but these were speedily overpowered, most +of them killed, and the rest taken; whilst as many as stood +without were exposed to a sweeping fire, which cut them down by +whole companies. It was in vain that the most obstinate courage +was displayed. They fell by the hands of men whom they +absolutely did not see; for the Americans, without so much as +lifting their faces above the rampart, swung their firelocks by +one arm over the wall, and discharged them directly upon their +heads. The whole of the guns likewise, from the opposite bank, +kept up a well-directed wand deadly cannonade upon their flank; +and thus were they destroyed without an opportunity being given +of displaying their valour, or obtaining so much as revenge. + +Sir Edward saw how things were going, and did all that a general +could do to rally his broken troops. Riding towards the 44th, +which had returned to the ground, but in great disorder, he +called out for Colonel Mullens to advance; but that officer +disappeared, and was not to be found. He therefore prepared to +lead them on himself, and had put himself at their head for that +purpose, when he received a slight wound in the knee from a +musket-ball, which killed his horse. Mounting another, he again +headed the 44th, when a second ball took effect more fatally, and +he dropped lifeless into the arms of his aide-de-camp. + +Nor were Generals Gibbs and Keane inactive. Riding through the +ranks, they strove by all means to encourage the assailants and +recall the fugitives; till at length both were wounded, and borne +off the field. All was now confusion and dismay. Without +leaders, ignorant of what was to be done, the troops first halted +and then began to retire; till finally the retreat was changed +into a flight, and they quitted the ground in the utmost +disorder. But the retreat was covered in gallant style by the +reserve. Making a forward motion, the 7th and 43rd presented the +appearance of a renewed attack; by which the enemy were so much +awed, that they did not venture beyond their lines in pursuit of +the fugitives. + +Whilst affairs were thus disastrously conducted in this quarter, +the party under Colonel Thornton had gained the landing-place. +On stepping ashore, the first thing they beheld was a rocket +thrown up as a signal that the battle was begun. This unwelcome +sight added wings to their speed. Forming in one little column, +and pushing forward a single company as an advanced guard, they +hastened on, and in half an hour reached a canal, along the +opposite bank of which a detachment of Americans was drawn up. +To dislodge them was the work of a moment a boat, with a +carronade in her bow, got upon their flank, gave them a single +discharge of grape, whilst the advanced guard extended its ranks, +and approached at double-quick time. But they scarcely waited +till the latter were within range, when, firing a volley, they +fled in confusion. This, however, was only an outpost: the main +body was some way in rear, and amounted to no fewer than 1500 +men. + +It was not long, however, before they likewise presented +themselves. Like their countrymen on the other side, they were +strongly entrenched, a thick parapet with a ditch covering their +front; whilst a battery upon their left swept the whole +position, and two field-pieces commanded the road. Of artillery +the assailants possessed not a single piece, nor any means beyond +what nature supplied of scaling the rampart. Yet nothing daunted +by the obstacles before them, or by the immense odds to which +they were opposed, dispositions for an immediate attack were +made. The 85th, extending its files, stretched across the entire +line of the enemy; the sailors in column prepared to storm the +battery, whilst the marines remained some little way in rear of +the centre as a reserve. + +These arrangements being completed, the bugle sounded, and our +troops advanced. The sailors raising a shout, rushed forward, +but were met by so heavy a discharge of grape and canister that +for an instant they paused. Recovering themselves, however, they +again pushed on; and the 85th dashing forward to their aid, they +received a heavy fire of musketry, and endeavoured to charge. A +smart firing was now for a few minutes kept up on both sides, +but our people had no time to waste in distant fighting, and +accordingly hurried on to storm the works, upon which a panic +seized the Americans, they lost their order, and fled, leaving us +in possession of their tents and of eighteen pieces of cannon. + +In this affair our loss amounted to only three men killed and +about forty wounded, among the latter of whom was Colonel +Thornton. Nor could the loss on the part of the enemy greatly +exceed our own. Had they stood firm, indeed, it is hardly +conceivable that so small a force could have wrested an +entrenched position from numbers so superior; at least it could +not have been done without much bloodshed. But they were +completely surprised. An attack on this side was a circumstance +of which they had not dreamed; and when men are assaulted in a +point which they deem beyond the reach of danger, it is well +known that they defend themselves with less vigour than where +such an event was anticipated. + +When in the act of storming these lines the word was passed +through our ranks that all had gone well on the opposite bank. +This naturally added to the vigour of the assault; but we had +not followed our flying enemy above two miles when we were +commanded to halt. The real state of the case had now reached +us, and the same messenger who brought the melancholy news brought +likewise an order to return. + +The place where we halted was in rear of a canal, across which +was thrown a wooden bridge, furnishing apparently the only means +of passing. At the opposite end of this bridge stood a +collection of wooden cottages and one chateau of some size. Here +a company was stationed to serve the double purpose of a piquet +and a rear-guard; whilst the main body, having rested for half an +hour, began their march towards the point where they had landed. + +RE-EMBARKATION--THE CAMP. + +As soon as the column had got sufficiently on their way the +piquet likewise prepared to follow. But in doing so it was +evident that some risk must be run. The enemy having rallied, +began again to show a front; that is to say, parties of sixty or +a hundred men approached to reconnoitre. These, however, must be +deceived, otherwise a pursuit might be commenced, and the +re-embarkation of the whole corps hindered or prevented. It so +happened that the piquet in question was this day under my +command; as soon, therefore, as I received information that the +main body had commenced its retreat, I formed my men, and made a +show of advancing. The Americans perceiving this, fled; when, +wheeling about, we set fire to the chateau, and under cover of +the smoke destroyed the bridge and retreated. Making all haste +towards the rear, we overtook our comrades just as they had +begun to embark; when the little corps being once more united, +entered their boats, and reached the opposite bank without +molestation. + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +THE CAMP. + +As soon as the whole army was re-united, and the broken regiments +had recovered their order, a flag of truce was dispatched with +proposals for the burial of the dead. To accomplish this end a +truce of two days was agreed upon, and parties were immediately +sent out to collect and bury their fallen comrades. Prompted by +curiosity, I mounted my horse and rode to the front; but of all +the sights I ever witnessed, that which met me there was beyond +comparison the most shocking and the most humiliating. Within +the narrow compass of a few hundred yards were gathered together +nearly a thousand bodies, all of them arrayed in British +uniforms. Not a single American was among them; all were +English; and they were thrown by dozens into shallow holes, +scarcely deep enough to furnish them with a slight covering of +earth. Nor was this all. An American officer stood by smoking a +cigar, and apparently counting the slain with a look of savage +exultation, and repeating over and over to each individual that +approached him, that their loss amounted only, to eight men +killed and fourteen wounded. + +I confess that when I beheld the scene I hung down my head, half +in sorrow and half in anger. With my officious informant I had +every inclination to pick a quarrel; but he was on duty, and an +armistice existed, both of which forbade the measure. I could +not, however, stand by and repress my choler, and since to give +it vent would have subjected me to more serious inconvenience +than a mere duel, I turned my horse's head and galloped back to +the camp. + +But the change of expression visible there in every countenance +no language can portray. Only twenty hours ago, and all was life +and animation; wherever you went you were enlivened by the sound +of merriment and raillery; whilst the expected attack was +mentioned in terms indicative not only of sanguine hope, but, of +the most perfect confidence as to its result. Now gloom and +discontent everywhere prevailed. Disappointment, grief, +indignation, and rage, succeeded each other in all bosoms; nay, +so completely were the troops overwhelmed by a sense of disgrace, +that for awhile they retained their sorrow without so much as +hinting at its cause. Nor was this dejection occasioned wholly +by the consciousness of laurels tarnished. The loss of +comrades was to the full as afflicting as the loss of honour; for +out of more than 5000 men brought on this side into the field, no +fewer than 1500 had fallen. Among these were two generals (for +Gibbs survived his wound but a few hours), and many officers of +courage and ability; besides which, hardly an individual +survived who had not to mourn the loss of some particular +and well-known companion. + +Yet it is most certain that amidst all this variety of +conflicting passions no feeling bordering upon despair or even +terror found room. Even among the private soldiers no fear was +experienced; for if you attempted to converse with them on the +subject of the late defeat, they would end with a bitter curse +upon those to whose misconduct they attributed their losses, and +refer you to the future, when they hoped for an opportunity of +revenge. To the Americans they would allow no credit, laying the +entire blame of the failure upon certain individuals among +themselves; and so great was the indignation expressed against +one corps, that the soldiers of other regiments would hardly +exchange words with those who chanced to wear that uniform. +Though deeply afflicted, therefore, we were by no means +disheartened, and even, yet anticipated, with an eagerness far +exceeding what was felt before, a renewal of the combat. + +PREPARATIONS FOR RETREAT. + +But General Lambert, on whom the chief command had devolved, very +prudently determined not to risk the safety of his army by +another attempt upon works evidently so much beyond their +strength. He considered, and considered justly, that his chances +of success were in every respect lessened by the late repulse. +In the first place, an extraordinary degree of confidence was +given to the enemy; in the next place, the only feasible plan of +attack having been already tried, they would be more on their +guard to prevent its being again put in execution; and lastly, +his own force was greatly diminished in numbers, whilst theirs +continued every day to increase. Besides, it would be casting +all upon the hazard of a die. If again defeated, nothing could +save our army from destruction, because unless it retreated in +force no retreat could be effected. A retreat, therefore, whilst +yet the measure appeared practicable, was resolved upon, and +towards that end were all our future operations directed. + +To the accomplishment of this desirable object, however, one +great obstacle existed: by what road were the troops to travel, +and in what order were they to regain the fleet? On landing we +had taken advantage of the creek or bayo, and thus come up by +water within two miles of the cultivated country. But to adopt a +similar course in returning was impossible. In spite of our +losses there were not throughout the armament a sufficient number +of boats to transport above one-half of the army at a time. If, +however, we should separate, the chances were that both parties +would be destroyed; for those embarked might be intercepted, and +those left behind would be obliged to cope with the entire +American force. Besides, even granting that the Americans might +be repulsed, it would be impossible to take to our boats in their +presence, and thus at least one division, if not both, must be +sacrificed. + +To obviate this difficulty prudence required that the road which +we had formed on landing should be continued to the very margin +of the lake; whilst appearances seemed to indicate the total +impracticability of the scheme. From firm ground to the water's +edge was here a distance of many miles, through the very centre +of a morass where human foot had never before trodden. Yet it was +desirable at least to make the attempt; for if it failed we +should only be reduced to our former alternative of gaining a +battle or surrendering at discretion. + +Having determined to adopt this course, General Lambert +immediately dispatched strong working parties, under the guidance +of engineer officers, to lengthen the road, keeping as near as +possible to the margin of the creek. But the task assigned to +them was burthened with innumerable difficulties. For the extent +of several leagues no firm footing could be discovered on which +to rest the foundation of a path; nor any trees to assist in +forming hurdles. All that could be done, therefore, was to bind +together large quantities of reeds, and lay them across the +quagmire; by which means at least the semblance of a road was +produced, however wanting in firmness and solidity. But where +broad ditches came in the way, many of which intersected the +morass, the workmen were necessarily obliged to apply more +durable materials. For these, bridges composed in part of large +branches brought with immense labour from the woods, were +constructed; but they were, on the whole, little superior in +point of strength to the rest of the path, for though the edges +were supported by timber, the middle was filled up only with +reeds. + +To complete this road, bad as it was, occupied the space of nine +days, during which time our army remained in position without +making any attempt to molest the enemy. The Americans, however, +were not so inactive. In the course of two days six guns were +again mounted upon the bank of the river, from which a continual +fire was kept up upon our camp. The same mode of proceeding was +adopted in front, and thus, night and day, were we harassed by +danger against which there was no fortifying ourselves. Of the +extreme unpleasantness of our situation it is hardly possible to +convey any adequate conception. We never closed our eyes in +peace, for we were sure to be awakened before many minutes +elapsed, by the splash of a round shot or shell in the mud beside +us. Tents we had none, but lay, some in the open air, and some +in huts made of boards, or any materials that could be procured. +From the first moment of our landing not a man had undressed +excepting to bathe; and many had worn the same shirt for weeks +together, Besides all this, heavy rains now set in, accompanied +with violent storms of thunder and lightning, which lasting +during the entire day, usually ceased towards dark, and gave +place to keen frosts. Thus were we alternately wet and frozen: +wet all day, and frozen all night. With the outposts again there +was constant skirmishing. With what view the Americans wished to +drive them in I cannot tell; but every day were they attacked, +and compelled to maintain their ground by dint of hard fighting. +In one word, none but those who happened to belong to this army +can form a notion of the hardships which it endured and the +fatigue which it underwent. + +Nor were these the only evils which tended to lessen our numbers. +To our soldiers every inducement was held out by the enemy to +desert. Printed papers, offering lands and money as the price of +desertion, were thrown into the piquets, whilst individuals made +a practice of approaching our posts, and endeavouring to persuade +the very sentinels to quit their stations. Nor could it be +expected that bribes so tempting would always be refused. Many +desertions began daily to take place, and became before long so +frequent, that the evil rose to be of a serious nature. + +There occurred, however, one instance of magnanimous fidelity on +the part of a British soldier, which I cannot resist the +inclination of repeating. A private of the 95th, whose name I +should have joyfully mentioned had I not forgotten it, chanced +one day to stand sentinel, when he was addressed by an American +officer. The American offered him a hundred dollars and a +quantity of land if he would come over; representing, at the same +time, the superiority of a democratical government, and railing, +as these persons generally do, against the title of king. Though +the Englishman heard what was said distinctly enough, he +nevertheless pretended to be deaf, and begged his tempter to come +a little nearer, that, in his own words, "he might tell him all +about it." Jonathan, exulting at the prospect of drawing this +fine fellow from his duty, approached within twenty paces of +where he stood, when just as he had opened his mouth to renew his +offer, the sentinel levelled his piece and shot him through the +arm. Nor was he contented with inflicting this punishment. +Walking forward, he seized his wounded enemy, and reproaching him +with dishonourable dealings, brought him in a prisoner to the +camp. But, unhappily, conduct such as this was rare; in the +course of a week many men quitted their colours, and fled to the +enemy. + +RETREAT. + +In the mean time the whole of the wounded, except such as were +too severely hurt to be removed, were embarked upon the canal, +and sent off to the fleet. Next followed the baggage and stores, +with the civil officers, commissaries, purveyors, &c.; and last +of all, such of the light artillery as could be withdrawn with +out trouble or the risk of discovery. But of the heavy artillery, +of which about ten pieces were mounted in front of the bivouac, +and upon the bank of the river, no account was taken. They were +ship's guns, of little value, and extremely cumbersome; +consequently their removal, had it been practicable, would +scarcely have rewarded the trouble. It was therefore determined +to leave them behind; and they were accordingly permitted to +retain their stations to the last. + +These preparations being continued for some days, on the 17th no +part of our force remained in camp except the infantry. Having +therefore delayed only till the abandoned guns were rendered +unserviceable, on the evening of the 18th it also began its +retreat. Trimming the fires, and arranging all things in the same +order as if no change were to take place, regiment after regiment +stole away, as soon as darkness concealed their motions; leaving +the piquets to follow as a rear-guard, but with strict +injunctions not to retire till daylight began to appear. As may +be supposed, the most profound silence was maintained; not a man +opening his mouth, except to issue necessary orders, and even +then speaking in a whisper. Not a cough or any other noise was to +be heard from the head to the rear of the column; and even the +steps of the soldiers were planted with care, to prevent the +slightest stamping or echo. Nor was this extreme caution in any +respect unnecessary. In spite of every endeavour to the contrary, +a rumour of our intended movement had reached the Americans for +we found them of late watchful and prying, whereas they had been +formerly content to look only to themselves. + +For some time, that is to say, while our route lay along the high +road and beside the brink of the river, the march was agreeable +enough; but as soon as we began to enter upon the path through +the marsh all comfort was at an end. Being constructed of +materials so slight, and resting upon a foundation so infirm, the +treading of the first corps unavoidably beat it to pieces; those +which followed were therefore compelled to flounder on in the +best way they could; and by the time the rear of the column +gained the morass all trace of a way had entirely disappeared. +But not only were the reeds torn asunder and sunk by the pressure +of those who had gone before, but the bog itself, which at first +might have furnished a few spots of firm footing, was trodden +into the consistency of mud. The consequence was, that every +step sank us to the knees, and frequently higher. Near the +ditches, indeed, many spots occurred which we had the utmost +difficulty in crossing at all; and as the night was dark, there +being no moon, nor any light except what the stars supplied, it +was difficult to select our steps, or even to follow those who +called to us that they were safe on the opposite side. At one of +these places I myself beheld an unfortunate wretch gradually sink +till he totally disappeared. I saw him flounder in, heard his +cry for help, and ran forward with the intention of saving him; +but before I had taken a second step, I myself sank at once as +high as the breast. How I contrived to keep myself from +smothering is more than I can tell, for I felt no solid bottom +under me, and continued slowly to go deeper and deeper till the +mud reached my arms. Instead of endeavouring to help the poor +soldier, of whom nothing could now be seen except the head and +hands, I was forced to beg assistance for myself: when a leathern +canteen strap being thrown to me, I laid hold of it, and was +dragged out just as my fellow-sufferer became invisible. + +Over roads such as these did we continue our journey during the +whole of the night: and in the morning reached a place called +Fisherman's huts, upon the margin of the lake. The name is +derived from a clump of mud-built cottages, situated in as +complete a desert as the eye of man was ever pained by beholding. +They stand close to the water, upon a part of the morass rather +more firm than the rest. Not a tree or bush of any description +grows near them. As far as the eye could reach a perfect ocean +of reeds everywhere presented itself, except on that side where a +view of the lake changed without fertilizing the prospect. Were +any set of human beings condemned to spend their lives here, I +should consider their fate as little superior to that of the +solitary captive: but during many months of the year these huts +are wholly unoccupied, being erected, as their name denotes, +merely to shelter a few fishermen while the fishing season lasts. + +Here at length we were ordered to halt; and perhaps I never +rejoiced more sincerely at any order than at this. Wearied with +my exertions, and oppressed with want of sleep, I threw myself on +the ground without so much as pulling off my muddy garments, and +in an instant all my cares and troubles were forgotten. Nor did +I wake from that deep slumber for many hours, when I rose cold +and stiff, and creeping beside a miserable fire of reeds, +addressed myself to the last morsel of salt pork which my wallet +contained. + +HALT. + +The whole army had now come up, the piquets having escaped +without notice, or at least without annoyance. Forming along the +brink of the lake, a line of outposts was planted, and the +soldiers were commanded to make themselves as comfortable as they +could. But, in truth, the word comfort is one which cannot in +any sense be applied to people in such a situation. Without +tents or huts of any description (for the few from which the +place is named were occupied by the General and other heads of +departments), our bed was the morass, and our sole covering the +clothes which had not quitted our backs for upwards of a month. +Our fires, upon the size and goodness of which much of a +soldier's happiness depends, were composed solely of reeds; a +species of fuel which, like straw, soon blazes up, and soon +expires again, almost without communicating any degree of warmth. +But, above all, our provisions were expended, and from what +quarter to obtain an immediate supply it defied the most +inventive genius to discover. Our sole dependence was upon the +boats. Of these a flotilla lay ready to receive us, in which +were embarked the black corps, with the 44th; but they had +brought with them only food for their own use. It was therefore +necessary that they should reach the fleet and return again +before they could furnish us with what we so much wanted. But +the distance to the nearest of the shipping could not be less +than eighty miles; and if the weather should become boisterous or +the winds obstinately adverse we might starve before any supply +could arrive. + +These numerous grievances were, however, without remedy, and we +bore them with patience; though for two whole days the only +provisions issued to the troops were some crumbs of biscuit and a +small allowance of rum. For my own part I did not fare so badly +as many others. Having been always fond of shooting, I took a +firelock and went in pursuit of wild ducks, which abounded +throughout the bog. Wandering along in this quest I reached a +lake, by the margin of which I concealed myself and waited for my +prey; nor was it long before I had an opportunity of firing. +Several large flocks flew over me, and I was fortunate enough to +kill three birds. But, alas, those birds, upon which I had +already feasted in imagination, dropped into the water: my dog, +more tired than her master, would not fetch them out, and they +lay about twenty yards off, tantalizing me with the sight of a +treasure which I could not reach. Moving off to another point, I +again took my station where I hoped for better fortune; but the +same evil chance once more occurred, and the ducks fell into the +lake. This was too much for a hungry man to endure; the day was +piercingly cold, and the edge of the pool was covered with ice; +but my appetite was urgent, and I resolved at all hazards to +indulge it. Pulling off my clothes, therefore, I broke the ice +and plunged in; and though shivering like an aspen-leaf, I +returned safely to the camp with a couple of birds. Next day I +adopted a similar course with like success, but at the expense +of what was to me a serious misery. My stockings of warm wool +were the only part of my dress which I did not strip off, and +to-day it unfortunately happened that one was lost. Having +secured my ducks, I attempted to land where the bottom was muddy; +but my leg stuck fast, and in pulling it out off came the +stocking; to recover it was beyond my power, for the mud closed +over it directly, and the consequence was that till I regained +the transport only one of my feet could be warm at a time. To +those who can boast of many pairs of fine cotton and woollen +hose, this misfortune of mine may appear light, but to me, who +had only two stockings on shore, the loss of one was very +grievous; and I therefore request that I may not be sneered at +when I record it as one of the disastrous consequences of this +ill-fated expedition. + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +THE LAKE. + +AS soon as the boats returned, regiment after regiment embarked +and set sail for the fleet; but the distance being considerable +and the wind foul, many days elapsed before the whole could be +got off. Excepting in one trifling instance, however, no accident +occurred, and by the end of the month we were all once more on +board our former ships. But our return was far from +triumphant. We, who only seven weeks ago had set out in the +surest confidence of glory, and I may add of emolument, were +brought back dispirited and dejected. Our ranks were wofully +thinned, our chiefs slain, our clothing tattered and filthy, and +even our discipline in some degree injured. A gloomy silence +reigned throughout the armament, except when it was broken by the +voice of lamentation over fallen friends; and the interior of +each ship presented a scene well calculated to prove the +short-sightedness of human hope and human prudence. + +The accident to which I allude was the capture of a single boat +by the enemy. About thirty men of the 14th dragoons having +crowded into an unarmed barge, were proceeding slowly down the +lake, when a boat mounting a carronade in its bow suddenly darted +from a creek and made towards them. To escape was impossible, +for their barge was too heavily laden to move at a rate of even +moderate rapidity; and to fight was equally out of the question, +because of the superiority which their cannon gave to the Americans. +The whole party was accordingly compelled to surrender to six men +and an officer; and having thrown their arms into the lake, their +boat was taken in tow and they were carried away prisoners. + +This, however, was the only misfortune which occurred. Warned by +the fate of their comrades, the rest kept together in little +squadrons, each attended by one or more armed launches; and thus +rowing steadily on, they gained the shipping without so much as +another attempt at surprisal being made. + +On reaching the fleet, we found that a considerable reinforcement +of troops had arrived from England. It consisted of the 40th +foot, a fine regiment, containing nearly a thousand men, which, +ignorant of the fatal issue of our attack, had crossed the lakes +only to be sent back to the ships without so much as stepping on +shore. The circumstance, however, produced little satisfaction. +We felt that the coming of thrice the number could not recover +what was lost or recall past events; and therefore no rejoicing +was heard, nor the slightest regard paid to the occurrence. Nay, +so great was the despondency which had taken possession of men's +minds, that not even a rumour respecting the next point of attack +obtained circulation; whilst a sullen carelessness, a sort of +indifference as to what might happen, seemed to have succeeded +all our wonted curiosity and confidence of success in every +undertaking. + +THE LAKE--MOBILE. + +In this state we remained wind-bound till the 4th of February, +when, at length getting under weigh, the fleet ran down as far as +Cat Island. This is a spot of sandy soil at the mouth of the +lake, remarkable for nothing except a solitary Spanish family +which possesses it. Completely cut off from the rest of the +world, an old man, his wife, two daughters, and a son, dwell here +in apparent happiness and contentment. Being at least one +hundred and twenty miles from the main, it is seldom that their +little kingdom is visited by strangers; and I believe that till +our arrival the daughters, though grown up to womanhood, had seen +few faces besides those of their parents and brother. Their +cottage, composed simply of a few boughs, thatched and in-woven +with straw, is beautifully situated within a short distance of +the water. Two cows and a few sheep grazed beside it; whilst a +small tract of ground covered with stubble, and a little garden +well stocked with fruit-trees and vegetables, at once gave proof +of their industry, and showed the source from whence they +supplied themselves with bread. + +Having remained here till the 7th, we again took advantage of a +fair wind and stood to sea. As soon as we had cleared the lake, +we directed our course towards the east, steering, as it was +rumoured, upon Mobile; nor was it long before we came in sight of +the bay which bears that name. It is formed by a projecting +headland called Point Bayo, and a large island called Isle +Dauphin. Upon the first is erected a small fort, possessing the +same title with the promontory which commands the entrance; for +though the island is, at least five miles from the main, there is +no water for floating a ship of any burthen except within a few +hundred yards of the latter. The island is, like Cat Island, +uninhabited, except by one family, and unprovided with any works +of defence. + +SIEGE. + +As the attack of Mobile was professedly our object, it was clear +that nothing could be done previous to the reduction of the fort. +The ships accordingly dropped anchor at the mouth of the bay, and +immediate preparations were made for the siege. But the fort was +too inconsiderable in point of size to require the employment of +all our forces in its investment. Whilst one brigade, therefore, +was allotted to this service, the rest proceeded to establish +themselves on the island, where, carrying tents and other +conveniences on shore, the first regular encampment which we had +seen since our arrival in this hemisphere was formed. + +The spot of ground, of which we had now taken possession, +extended twelve miles in length, and from one to three in width. +Its soil is in general dry and sandy, well covered with grass, +and ornamented by continued groves of pine, cedar, oak, and +laurel. On one side only is there a swamp, but not of sufficient +size to contaminate the atmosphere of the whole, which is +considered so peculiarly healthy, that the place is generally +used as a depot for the sick in the American army. At present, +as I have said, it was tenanted by no more than a single family, +the master of which was a midshipman in the American navy, and +banished hither for some misdemeanor; but what was to us of much +greater importance, it was likewise stocked with cattle +resembling in appearance the black cattle of the Highlands of +Scotland, and not behind them in point of wildness. + +Whilst the remainder of the army spent their time here, the 4th, +21st, and 44th, being landed above the fort, were busied in the +siege. This small work stands, as I have stated, at the +extremity of a promontory. Towards the sea its fortifications +are respectable enough, but on the land side it is little better +than a blockhouse. The ramparts being composed of sand, not more +than three feet in thickness, are faced with plank barely +cannon-proof; whilst a sand-hill rising within pistol-shot of the +ditch, completely commands them. Within, again, the fort is as +much wanting in accommodation as it is in strength. There are no +bomb-proof barracks, nor any hole or arch under which men might +find protection from shells; indeed, so deficient is it in common +lodging-rooms, that a great part of the garrison slept in tents. +To reduce this place, therefore, occupied but a short time. The +troops having assembled on the 8th, drove the enemy within their +lines on the 9th, and broke ground the same evening. On the +10th, four eighteen-pounders with two howitzers were placed in +battery upon the top of the sand-hill; on the 11th, the fort +surrendered; and on the 12th, the garrison, consisting of four +hundred men of the second American regiment, marched out with all +the honours of war, and laid down their arms upon the glacis. + +PEACE. + +With the reduction of this trifling work ended all hostilities in +this quarter of America, for the army had scarcely re-assembled +when intelligence arrived from England of peace. The news +reached us on the 14th, and I shall not deny that it was received +with general satisfaction. Though war is the soldier's harvest, +yet it must be confessed, that when carried on as it had of late +been conducted, it is a harvest of which men in time become +weary; and many of us having been absent for several years from +our native shores, experienced absolute delight at the prospect +of returning once more to the bosom of our families. The +communication was therefore welcomed with unfeigned joy, nor +could any other topic of conversation gain attention throughout +the camp, except the anticipated re-embarkation. . + +But as the preliminaries only had been signed, and as +Mr. Maddison's approval was required before we should be at +liberty to depart, our army still continued stationary upon the +island. Of the President's conduct, however, no doubts were +entertained; all thoughts of future military operations were in +consequence laid aside; and the sole aim of every individual +thenceforth was to make himself as comfortable as circumstances +would permit. To effect this end various expedients were +adopted. Among others a theatre was erected, in which such +officers as chose to exhibit performed for their own amusement +and the amusement of their friends. In shooting and fishing, +likewise, much of our time was spent; and thus, by adopting the +usual expedients of idle men, we contrived to pass some days in a +state of tolerable comfort. + +Occupations such as these, however, soon grew insipid, and it was +with sincere rejoicing that on the 5th of March we were made +acquainted with Mr. Maddison's agreement to the terms proposed. +All was now hope and exultation, an immediate departure was +anticipated, and those were pitied as unfortunate whose lot it +was supposed, might detain them even a day behind their fellows. +But as yet no movement took place; our provisions were not +sufficient to authorize the undertaking so long a voyage as we +must undertake, did we attempt to run for the nearest British +settlement; we were therefore compelled to remain where we were, +till a frigate should return, which had been sent forward to +solicit supplies from the Governor of Cuba. + +During this interval, the same occupations were resorted to; and +others of a less agreeable nature undertaken. As summer came on, +the island sent forth multitudes of snakes from their lurking- +places, which infested the camp, making their way in some +instances into our very beds. This was bad enough, but it was +not the only nuisance to which we were subject. The alligators, +which during the winter months lie in a dormant state, now began +to awaken, and prowling about the margin of the pool, created no +little alarm and agitation. Apparently confounded at our +invasion of their territories, these monsters at first confined +themselves to the marshy part of the island, but becoming by +degrees more familiar, they soon ventured to approach the very +precincts of the camp. One of them at length entered a tent; in +which only a woman and child chanced to be, and having stared +round as if in amazement, walked out again without offering to +commit any violence. But the visit was of too serious a nature +to be overlooked. Parties were accordingly formed for their +destruction, and it was usual on the return of each from an +excursion, instead of asking how many birds, to demand how many +snakes and alligators they had shot. Of the former, indeed, +great numbers were killed,`and of the latter not a few, the +largest of which measured about nine feet from the snout to the +tail. + +Another employment, also, deserves to be noted, because it is +truly characteristic of the boyish jollity of young soldiers. +Wearied with a state of idleness, the officers of the 7th, 43rd, +and 14th dragoons made an attack with fir-apples upon those of +the 85th, 93rd, and 95th. For the space of some days they pelted +each other from morning till night, laying ambuscades and +exhibiting, on a small scale, all the stratagems of war; whilst +the whole army, not even excepting the Generals themselves, stood +by and spurred them on. + +But to continue a detail of such proceedings would only swell my +narrative, without amusing my reader; I shall therefore content +myself with observing, that things remained in this state till +the 14th of March, when the long-looked for frigate at length +arrived, and on the 15th, the first division of the army +embarking, set sail for England. The wind, however, was foul, +nor did the ships make any way till the 17th, when a fresh breeze +springing up, we stood our course, and by ten o'clock on the 21st +could distinguish the high land of Cuba. But the violence of the +gale having driven us considerably to leeward, we were forced to +bear up, and beat along the coast, on which account it was not +till the 23rd that we came opposite to the port of Havannah. + +HAVANNAH. + +Than the approach to this city, and its first appearance from the +water, it is impossible to conceive anything more grand and +imposing. A little bay, extremely narrow at the entrance, forms +the harbour. On each side of it stand forts of prodigious +strength, particularly those on the left, where the ground is +considerably elevated, whilst the city itself, with its ramparts +and towers, its numerous steeples, spires, and public +buildings, gives an assurance of wealth and magnificence +peculiarly striking. When we entered, every tower was surmounted +by a national banner half-mast high, a circumstance which did not +at least diminish the effect of a first view; and the guns from +the forts answering our salute, showed us how desperate must be +the condition of an enemy that should venture within their +range. Why the flags should thus indicate a general mourning, we +were at a loss to guess, till the pilot informed us that this was +Holy week. Then, indeed, we remembered that we had returned to a +Roman Catholic country, and rejoiced at the lucky accident which +had brought us thither at such a season. + +As it was late before we anchored, I was prevented from landing +that night, but on the morrow I went on shore at an early hour, +with the intention of seeing as much as my time would allow. But +in my proposed visits to the different points worthy of attention +I was interrupted. It was Good-Friday, consequently all public +places were shut, and neither guides nor carriages could be +procured. But if I was disappointed in this, my disappointment +was amply compensated by a view of the religious ceremonies +peculiar to that day. + +Walking into the largest church in the city, I beheld beside the +altar a figure of our Saviour as large as life nailed to a cross. +Beside this figure stood a number of monks, one of whom presented +a rod with a sponge affixed to its mouth, while a second thrust a +spear into its side, from which came out a liquor having the +colour of blood and water. This being carefully caught in a +golden dish, the figure was taken down from the cross, wrapped +round with white linen clothes, and laid upon a bier, when an +imposing procession began in the following order: First marched a +military band playing slow and solemn music; next came a guard of +soldiers with heads bent down and arms reversed; then followed +about two hundred monks belonging to different orders, arrayed in +their dark robes, with hands and feet bare, and crucifixes +suspended from their necks. A short interval now succeeded, and +another party of monks dressed in white appeared, singing hymns +in honour of the Virgin. Next came a splendid couch surmounted +by a canopy covered with white silk and sparkling with gold and +jewels, upon which sat a waxen image of the Mother of God, +clothed in gorgeous apparel. Following this was another party of +white-robed monks, chanting a requiem for a departed soul, and +then a second interval. At the distance of perhaps twenty yards +from these came two monks bearing two large silver nails, then +two others bearing a spear and a rod, and then the body of our +Saviour stretched at full length upon the bier. After the bier +came two monks bearing two other nails, and then another two +bearing a small cross and a ladder. Here, again, there was +another interval, which was succeeded by a third white-robed +party likewise chanting a requiem. Next to these came about +twenty canons arrayed in scarlet; then another couch covered with +crimson velvet, which supported a figure of Mary Magdalen, +likewise in a sitting posture; then a second body of canons, +succeeded by about two hundred monks in black; after these +another guard of soldiers, and last of all a second military +band. + +In spite of prejudice I could not avoid being deeply struck by +this solemn procession. The airs performed by the bands were +slow and mournful, the voices of the singers were deep and +musical, the dresses were rich to a degree of splendour, and the +whole was gone through with much apparent devotion. No doubt, +when regarded with the eye of reflection, the whole may seem +something worse than ludicrous, but it is impossible to witness +the scene and to reason on its propriety at the same time. As +long as the pageant is before your eyes you cannot avoid being +powerfully impressed by it; nor is it till after it has +disappeared that you are inclined to ask yourself why you gave +way to feelings of that nature. Yet among the natives I thought +I could observe a considerable degree of levity. It is true that +as many as were in the streets or at the windows dropped upon +their knees while the procession passed, but their careless looks +and suppressed smiles sufficiently proved that they knelt only +because they were obliged to kneel. + +Commencing at the door of the church where the representation of +the crucifixion had been exhibited, the funeral party (for it was +neither more nor less) proceeded through the principal streets in +the town with a slow and measured pace. As all except the +soldiers walked two and two, it covered, I should conceive, +little less than a mile in extent, and after winding from lane to +lane and from square to square, directed its steps towards a +particular convent, where the waxen image was solemnly deposited +in a vault. It is said, but with what truth I cannot pretend to +determine, that a different image is made use of every year, and +that the vault is now so full of waxen corpses, that it will be +necessary before long to have some of them destroyed. + +Having now got rid of the most sacred part of their burthen, the +monks, bearing only the two couches, returned in procession by +the same route and in the same order as they had proceeded, only +the bands struck up lively airs and the singers chanted hymns of +rejoicing and hallelujahs. Instead of walking at a slow pace +likewise, they stepped out almost in a sort of dance, and +reaching the door of the great church they there separated, each +party hastening to its own house to celebrate mass. + +Into one or two of the convent chapels I likewise entered, and +was present during the performance of their very striking +service. I found them ornamented in the most magnificent manner, +the rafters of many being gilded over and all the windows crowded +with stained glass. Of pictures, and what struck me as something +better than mere daubs, there were also great numbers. In a +word, it seemed as if I had reached the heart and capital of +Roman Catholic splendour. Nothing that I had beheld in the +mother-country could at all compare with what was now before me, +and I returned in the evening to my ship, not indeed a convert to +the principles of that religion, but decidedly astonished and +confounded at the solemn magnificence of its ceremonies. + + +CHAPTER XXV. + + +AT an early hour next morning I returned to the city, and found +that the face of affairs had undergone a complete revolution. No +more melancholy countenances, no closed shops and vacant streets +were now to be seen; all was bustle and rejoicing, bells ringing, +carriages rattling along, flags flying, and guns firing. The +solemnity of Good-Friday ends, it appeared, at ten o'clock on +Saturday morning, and from that time the merriments of Easter +have their commencement. + +The whole of this day I spent in strolling over the different +walks and points of view from whence the town and surrounding +country may be seen to most advantage; and I certainly must +pronounce it to be by far the most magnificent colonial capital +which I have visited. The streets are in general wide, clean, +and airy; the houses, except in the suburbs, are composed +entirely of stone, and being occasionally intermingled with +convents, churches, and other public buildings, produce a very +striking and handsome effect. Though surrounded by a rampart, +Havannah has little of the confined and straitened appearance by +which fortified towns are generally disfigured. The works being +of great extent, have left within their circumference abundant +room for the display of elegance and neatness in its +construction, an advantage which has not been neglected; whilst +from their situation they command as glorious a prospect as can +well be imagined. + +When you ascend a bastion which overhangs the harbour, the city, +with all its towers and spires, lies immediately and distinctly +beneath your gaze. Beyond it, again, you perceive a winding of +the bay, which washes three sides of the promontory where the +city stands; numerous fields of sugar-cane and Indian corn +succeed, intersected by groves of orange and other fruit trees, +which extend for some miles in a sort of inclined plane, and are +at length bounded by lofty and rugged mountains. On your left, +again, is the creek or entrance to the bay, separating you from +the Moro, a line of castles remarkable for their strength and +extent. Behind sweep the waters of the Gulf of Mexico; and on +the right is another view much resembling that which lies before +you, only that it is more narrowed; the high ground bearing in +this direction closer upon the city. On the whole I do not +remember to have been more forcibly struck by any scenery than +that which I beheld from this bastion; so well were town and +country, castles and convents, land and water, hill and valley +combined. + +Having spent some hours in wandering through the city, I +endeavoured to make my way into the forts, and to examine the +state of the works. But in both of these attempts I was +interrupted. Without an order from the Governor, I was informed, +that none, even of the natives, are permitted to enter the Moro, +and all applications on the part of foreigners are uniformly +refused. There was a degree of jealousy in this, as needless as +it was illiberal; but indeed the whole conduct of the Spanish +authorities gave proof of their reluctance to admit their old +allies, even to the common rites of hospitality. From the moment +we entered the harbour the militia of the island were called out, +many of the guns which commanded our shipping were shotted, and +artillerymen with lighted fuzes stood constantly beside them. An +order was likewise issued, prohibiting more than two persons to +land at the same time from each vessel, and many other +precautions were taken, little complimentary to the good faith of +those to whom Spain must feel that she owes her very existence. +In spite of these drawbacks, however, I contrived to spend a week +in this city with much satisfaction. The opera and theatre +opening on Easter Sunday, and continuing open during the +remainder of our stay, furnished sufficient amusement for the +evenings, whilst in walking or riding about, in examining the +different churches and chapels, and in chatting with nuns through +the grate, or monks within their cells, my mornings passed away +more quickly than I desired. + +At length our victualling and watering being complete, on the 9th +of April we bade adieu to the shores of Cuba, and running along +with the Gulf-stream, took our course towards Bermuda. The wind +favoured us greatly, and on the 17th we again reached these +islands; where we delayed till the 23rd, when, once more setting +sail, we steered directly for England. During the remainder of +the voyage nothing of importance occurred till the 7th of May, +when, reaching in towards the shores of Brest, we were astonished +by beholding the tri-coloured flag floating from the citadel. Of +the mighty events which dad taken place in Europe, we were as yet +in perfect ignorance. Though surprised, therefore, at the first +view of that beacon of war, we naturally concluded it to be no +more than a signal, and passed on without inquiry. As we +ascended the channel, however, we were hailed by a schooner, +which professed to communicate some news concerning Buonaparte; +but the wind being high, we could not distinctly tell what was +said; nor was it till the 9th, when we had anchored off Spithead, +that the reappearance of that wonderful man was made known. + +The effect of this intelligence it would be difficult to +describe. At first it was received with acclamations, but by and +bye those who had dreamed of home began to perceive in it the +destruction of their visions. Yet we considered that we were +soldiers, and certainly no regret was experienced when we were +ordered to re-embark, and sail for the Downs. + +REMARKS. + +Having thus brought my narrative to a conclusion, I cannot lay +aside my pen without offering a few remarks upon the events of +this busy year, and the nature of an American war in general. +In doing so, I shall begin with the unfortunate attack upon New +Orleans, and endeavour, in as few words as possible, to assign +the true causes of its failure. + +From the account which I have given of this affair, it will +appear that, from its very commencement, it was replete with +error, and gave promise of no better result than actually +occurred. I do not here allude to the spot fixed upon for +landing, because that was as appropriate as could be chosen. +Neither do I refer to the groundless rumours brought in by +deserters; for to such all assailants are liable; but the error +lay in the steps subsequently taken; in the unhappy advance of +the first division from a place of concealment into the open +country, without pushing forward to the extent required. The +fact is, that having reached the main land in safety, one out of +two plans might have been selected by General Keane; which, in +all probability, would have been equally attended with success. +Either he might have remained in the morass till the whole army +was assembled, or, if this were deemed too dangerous, he ought to +have advanced upon the city with the first division alone. If it +be objected that a force of 1600 men was incompetent for an +undertaking so important as the latter, I reply that there could +be no more hazard in it than in the course actually pursued. New +Orleans is not a regular fortification requiring a large army and +a powerful battering train for its reduction. In obtaining +possession of such a place there would have been no difficulty, +because it has since been ascertained that the American troops +were, at the time of our landing, some miles above the city; and +surely it would not have been more difficult to repulse an attack +within a town than in the open country. But neither of these +courses was adopted. The advance was drawn from concealment, and +halted just where it became most exposed, as if it had been our +design to warn the American General of his danger; the +consequence of which was a well-directed attack upon our bivouac, +and an immediate commencement of those works which afterwards +resisted and repelled all our efforts. + +The second error evident in this business was the selection of +the schooner instead of the ship for destruction. Had the +latter, which lay farther up the stream been destroyed, the +former never could have passed our battery, nor been of further +annoyance to us; whereas, the schooner being burnt, the ship was +only removed out of the reach of danger, and posted where she +could be infinitely more advantageous to her friends and +detrimental to her enemies. This in itself was a grave error, +which beyond all doubt contributed, in some degree, to our +repulse on the 29th of December. + +The third error, and one which continued to exert its influence +throughout the whole campaign, was the delay in bringing on a +general action. Why our troops fell back on the 29th I confess +is to me a mystery. It was not to be supposed that an officer +who had shown so much judgment as the American General, Jackson, +in his first endeavours to check our advance, would lose the +advantage which the nature of his position afforded. That he +would fortify the neck of land, indeed, was exactly what might +have been expected: and, therefore, every hour during which an +attack was deferred, contributed so much to his strength and to +our weakness. It is true that we should have suffered, and +perhaps suffered severely; but our chances of suffering were +certainly not diminished by delay. We ought, therefore, instead +of falling back, to have pursued our operations with vigour on +that day; because the American lines, being then incomplete, +would have assisted rather than retarded our progress. + +It has been said, and perhaps truly, that the movement on the +29th was never intended for more than a reconnoissance: and +that the scheme subsequently adopted, of overpowering the enemy's +fire by a superior artillery brought from the fleet, was a wise +one. All this may be true; but as we did not succeed in silencing +the enemy's batteries, who, on the contrary, put ours to silence, +either the project was faulty in its design, or some grievous +error was committed in its execution. As far as our position was +affected by it, the results were these:--Three days more were lost +in making preparations, which ended in nothing; while, by the +enemy, these same days were judiciously and indefatigably +employed to improve their deficiency and recruit their force. + +At last came the idea of digging a canal from the lakes to the +river, by means of which a portion of our army might be thrown to +the other side; a project which is said to have been suggested by +Sir Alexander Cochrane; but which, wheresoever originating, was +at once bold and judicious. The canal was accordingly formed; +not, however, with sufficient attention to the rules of art in +like cases, as was shown by the falling in of the banks, and the +consequent impossibility of bringing up boats to transport the +whole detachment. Still there it was, and 350 men, instead of +1400, made good their landing on the right bank of the river. It +is deeply to be regretted that Sir Edward Pakenham did not delay +his own advance with the main body till this fact had been +ascertained. His plan of battle was to carry the enemy's works +on the right bank, to turn their own guns from that flank against +themselves, and to alarm them for their communications, ere he +should attack the main position on the left. Nor can it be +doubted, that had the detached corps arrived at the hour first +named, an easy triumph would have been achieved. But Pakenham +was too fiery to restrain his troops, after they had assumed +their ground on his own side. Instead, therefore, of causing the +columns to fall back out of gun-shot, and wait quietly till the +battle began on the left, he hurried them into action as soon as +the day dawned; and they became exposed to the whole of that +volume of fire which it was one main object of his movement +across the Mississippi to destroy. Moreover, from all the moral +effects of a partial defeat the enemy were saved; and I need not +say how serious such things are to irregular and undisciplined +bodies. I do not mean to assert that, in spite of all this, the +American lines ought not to have been carried. On the contrary, +had every officer and man done his duty, the victory would have +been complete, though purchased, beyond a doubt, at a severe +cost. Yet it is absurd to deny that, speaking of the movement as +an operation of war, the attack on the right ought to have been +withheld till that on the left had either failed or succeeded. +So far, therefore, the General is liable to censure; and +chivalrous and high-minded as he was, it is just that he should +receive it. But there were other causes of defeat than this; +among which, the gross misconduct of one individual deserves to +be especially noticed. + +To Lieutenant-Colonel Mullens, with the 44th regiment, of which +he was in command, was intrusted the arduous and therefore +honourable duty of carrying the fascines and ladders. The orders +were given in good time over night; and Colonel Mullens received +them as if they had conveyed a sentence of death. He stated, in +the hearing of the private soldiers, that his corps was devoted +to destruction; and conducted himself, in every respect, like a +condemned criminal on the night previous to his execution. When +the troops got under arms, instead of bringing his battalion to +the redoubt, where he had been instructed to find the ladders, he +marched directly past it, and led them into the field without a +single ladder or fascine. When the day dawned, and he was sent +back for these instruments, he headed his corps in its retrograde +movement, but left it to return as it could to the front; and +when sought for to guide the attack, he was nowhere to be found. +That a regiment thus abused and deserted by its commanding +officer should fall into confusion, cannot occasion any surprise; +it would have been surprising indeed, had a different result +ensued. But the melancholy effect of such confusion was, that +other regiments were likewise broken; and before order could be +restored, all the Generals were borne dead or wounded from the +field. A large share, therefore, of the blame attachable to this +failure must rest where fidelity of narration has obliged me to +place it. + +Again, the recall of the victorious detachment from the left to +the right bank of the Mississippi, and the consequent abandonment +of that complete command of the river which this partial success +had obtained, was a military error of the gravest kind. Great as +our numerical loss had been in the principal action of the 8th, +the advantages of position were at the close of the day so +decidedly with us, that for General Jackson to maintain himself +any longer in front of New Orleans was physically impossible. +His own dispatch, indeed, addressed to the Secretary-at-War, +shows that he felt the truth so forcibly, that he had actually +issued orders for a retreat, when the removal of the English from +his menaced flank was reported to him; and his battalions, which +had begun to get under arms, were directed to resume their +places. It is, however, but just to state, that such was the +miserable condition of our commissariat, that the fleet contained +not provisions enough to feed the people on half rations during a +quick passage to Cuba; and General Lambert did not feel that he +would be justified in risking the total loss of his army, which, +had the campaign been prolonged another fortnight, must under +such circumstances have taken place. That he erred in this +supposition is certain; but his was probably an error into which +most men similarly circumstanced would have fallen. + +But the primary cause of all our disasters may be traced to a +source even more distant than any yet mentioned; I mean, to the +disclosure of our designs to the enemy. How this occurred I +shall not take it upon me to declare, though several rumours +bearing at least the guise of probability have been circulated. +The attack upon New Orleans was professedly a secret expedition; +so secret, indeed, that it was not communicated to the inferior +officers and soldiers in the armament till immediately previous +to our quitting Jamaica. To the Americans, however, it appears +to have been known long before; and hence it was that, instead of +taking them unawares, we found them fully prepared for our +reception. Nor is this all. It appears difficult to account for +the degree of negligence which affected the naval heads of the +present expedition, as far as the providing a competent number of +boats and small craft to transport the troops is concerned. +Throughout the whole fleet, barges enough to carry one-half of +the army could not be found; whereas there ought to have been a +sufficient quantity to contain not only the entire force, but all +its stores and ammunition. To this neglect, indeed, more perhaps +than to any other circumstances, is the failure of the attempt to +be attributed; since not a doubt can exist that, if General Keane +had been enabled to bring the whole of his army to land on the +morning of the 23rd, he would have reached New Orleans, without +firing a shot, before nightfall. But the opportunity is past, it +cannot be recalled, and therefore to point out errors on the part +of my countrymen can serve no good end. That the failure is to +be lamented no one will deny, since the conquest of New Orleans +would have proved beyond all comparison the most valuable +acquisition that could be made to the British dominions +throughout the whole western hemisphere. In possession of that +post we should have kept the entire southern trade of the United +States in check, and furnished means of commerce to our own +merchants of incalculable value. + +The fact, however, is, that when we look back upon the whole +series of events produced by the late American war, we shall find +little that is likely to flatter our vanity or increase our +self-importance. Except a few successes in Canada at its very +commencement, and the brilliant inroad upon Washington, it will +be found that our arms have been constantly baffled or repulsed +on shore; whilst at sea, with the exception of the capture of the +Chesapeake and one or two other affairs towards its conclusion, +we have been equally unsuccessful. From what cause does this +proceed? Not from any inferiority in courage or discipline, +because in these particulars British soldiers and sailors will +yield to none in the world. There must, then, be some other +cause for these misfortunes, and the cause is surely one which +has continually baffled all our plans of American warfare. + +We have long been habituated to despise the Americans as an enemy +unworthy of serious regard. To this alone it is to be attributed +that frigates half manned were sent out to cope with ships +capable of containing them within their hulls; and to this also +the trifling handfuls of troops dispatched to conduct the war by +land. Instead of fifteen hundred, had ten thousand men sailed +from the Garonne under General Ross, how differently might he +have acted! There would have been then no necessity for a +reembarkation after the capture of Washington, and consequently +no time given for the defence of Baltimore; but, marching across +the country, he might have done to the one city what he did to +the other. And it is thus only that a war with America can be +successfully carried on. To penetrate up the country amidst +pathless forests and boundless deserts, and to aim at permanent +conquest, is out of the question. America must be assaulted only +on her coasts. Her harbours destroyed, her shipping burned, and +her seaport towns laid waste, are the only evils which she has +reason to dread; and were a sufficient force embarked with these +orders, no American war would be of long continuance. + +A melancholy experience has now taught us that such a war must +not be entered into, unless it be conducted with spirit; and +there is no conducting it with spirit, except with a sufficient +numerical force. To the plan proposed of making desert the whole +line of coast, it may be objected, that by so doing we should +distress individuals, and not the Government. But they who offer +this objection, forget the nature both of the people whose cause +they plead, and of the Government under which they live. In a +democratical Government, the voice of the people must at all +times prevail. The members of the House of Representatives are +the very persons who, from such proceedings, would suffer most +severely, and we all know how far private suffering goes to +influence a man's public opinions. Besides, the principle upon +which the advocates for the sacredness of private property +proceed, is erroneous. Every one will allow that, in absolute +monarchies, where war is more properly the pastime of kings than +the desire of subjects, non-combatants ought to be dealt with as +humanely as possible. Not so, how ever, in States governed by +popular assemblies. By compelling the constituents to experience +the real hardships and miseries of warfare, you will compel the +representatives to a vote of peace; and surely that line of +conduct is, upon the whole, most humane, which puts the speediest +period to the cruelties of war. There are few men who would not +rather endure a raging fever for three days, than a slow and +lingering disease for three months. So it is with a democracy at +war. Burn their houses, plunder their property, block up their +harbours, and destroy their shipping in a few places; and before +you have time to proceed to the rest, you will be stopped by +entreaties for peace. Whereas, if you do no mischief that can be +avoided, if you only fight their fleets and armies wherever you +meet them, and suffer the inhabitants to live in undisturbed +tranquillity, they will continue their hostilities till they have +worn out the means of one party, and greatly weakened those of +both. + +Should another war break out between Great Britain and America, +this is the course to be adopted by the former. Besides which, I +humbly conceive that a second attempt might be hazarded upon New +Orleans, because the importance of the conquest would authorise +almost any sacrifice for its attainment; and once gained, it +could easily be defended. The neck of land, upon which it is +built, extends in the same form above as below the town; and the +same advantages which it holds out to its present defenders +would, of course, be afforded to us. A chain of works thrown +across from the river to the marsh would render it inaccessible +from above; whilst by covering the lakes and the Mississippi with +cruisers, all attacks from below would be sufficiently guarded +against. + +THE END. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Campaigns of the British Army at +Washington and New Orleans 1814-1815, by G. R. 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