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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:55:59 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:55:59 -0700 |
| commit | bfc8ef556a694b66e6bba535e17f1a643d16cf58 (patch) | |
| tree | 56759652d4e65d73c863927a02b4f1f29116fada /19494-h | |
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diff --git a/19494-h/19494-h.htm b/19494-h/19494-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..372874c --- /dev/null +++ b/19494-h/19494-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,4177 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Saint Albans, by Thomas Perkins</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + color: black; background-color: white; + text-indent: 1em; + } + h1, h2, h3, h4, h5, h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + h1, h2 { + margin-top: 2em;} + + hr { width: 67%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + background-color: white; color: black; + } + + .pagenum { position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + color: gray; background-color: white; + } /* page numbers */ + + ul {list-style: none;} + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .right {text-align: right;} + .subtitle {font-size: smaller;} + + img {border: none;} + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .footnote p {text-indent: 0em;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;} + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 2em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i8 {display: block; margin-left: 8em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i10 {display: block; margin-left: 10em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + + .tocch {text-align: left; } + .tocpn {text-align: right; } + .tocsb {text-align: left; text-indent: 2em;} + + .tnote {text-decoration: none; color: blue; background-color: white;} + + .pier {text-indent: -1em; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 0em;} + .pierind {text-indent: 1em; margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0em; } + hr.full { width: 100%; } + pre {font-size: 80%;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of +Saint Albans, by Thomas Perkins</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Saint Albans</p> +<p> With an Account of the Fabric & a Short History of the Abbey</p> +<p>Author: Thomas Perkins</p> +<p>Release Date: October 8, 2006 [eBook #19494]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BELL'S CATHEDRALS: THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF SAINT ALBANS***</p> +<p> </p> +<h4>E-text prepared by Jonathan Ingram, Gary Houston,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + (http://www.pgdp.net/)</h4> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="illus_1"></a> +<a href="./images/image01.jpg"><img src="./images/image01_th.jpg" alt="ST. ALBANS CATHEDRAL FROM THE SOUTH." /> +</a><span class="caption">ST. ALBANS CATHEDRAL FROM THE SOUTH.</span></div> + +<h1>THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF<br /> +<big>SAINT ALBANS</big></h1> + +<h2>WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE FABRIC<br /> +& A SHORT HISTORY OF THE ABBEY</h2> + +<h4>BY THE</h4> + +<h3>REV. THOMAS PERKINS, M.A.</h3> + +<h4>RECTOR OF TURNWORTH, DORSET<br /> +AUTHOR OF "ROUEN," "AMIENS," "WIMBORNE AND<br /> +CHRISTCHURCH," ETC., ETC.</h4> + +<h3>WITH FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<a name="illus_2" id="illus_2"></a><img src="images/image02.png" alt="ARMS OF THE SEE." /> +</div> + +<h3>LONDON: GEORGE BELL AND SONS. 1903</h3> + +<hr /> + +<h2>PREFACE</h2> + + +<p>The Rev. W.D. Sweeting, who had originally undertaken to write this +monograph on St. Albans, having been obliged, on account of ill-health, to +abandon the work, the Publishers asked me to write it in his stead. My +task was rendered much easier by Mr. Sweeting kindly sending me much +material that he had collected, and many valuable notes that he had made, +especially on the history of the Abbey.</p> + +<p>My best thanks are due to the Dean for kindly allowing me permission to +examine every part of the Cathedral church, and to take the photographs +with which this book is illustrated. A few illustrations only are from +other sources, among them those on pages 9 and 11, for permission to use +which I have to thank Mr. John Murray. I have also to acknowledge the +courtesy of the vergers, Mr. Newell and Miss Davis from both of whom I +obtained much information; Miss Davis's long connection with the church, +and the interest she takes in every detail connected with it, rendered her +help most valuable. I have consulted many books on the Abbey, among them +Lord Grimthorpe's and Mr. Page's Guides, Mr. James Neale's "Architectural +Notes on St. Albans Abbey," and papers read before the St. Albans +Archaeological Society by the Rev. Henry Fowler.</p> +<p class="right">THOMAS PERKINS.</p> +<p>TURNWORTH.<br /> +<i>July, 1903.</i></p> +<hr /> + +<h2>LIST OF CONTENTS<a name="TOC" id="TOC"></a></h2> + +<table summary="TOC" width="75%"> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">CHAPTER</td><td align="right">PAGE</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocpn">I.</td><td class="tocch"><a href="#chapter_1">HISTORY OF THE BUILDING</a></td><td class="tocpn">3</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocpn">II.</td><td class="tocch"><a href="#chapter_2">THE EXTERIOR</a></td><td class="tocpn">23</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocpn">III.</td><td class="tocch"><a href="#chapter_3">THE INTERIOR</a></td><td class="tocpn">35</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocpn">IV.</td><td class="tocch"><a href="#chapter_4">HISTORY OF THE MONASTERY AND SEE</a></td><td class="tocpn">81</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocpn">V.</td><td class="tocch"><a href="#chapter_5">THE NEIGHBOURHOOD</a></td><td class="tocpn">106</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch" colspan="2"><a href="#index">INDEX</a></td><td class="tocpn">113</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch" colspan="2"><a href="#dimensions">DIMENSIONS OF THE CATHEDRAL</a></td><td class="tocpn">115</td></tr> +</table> + + +<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<table summary="TOC" width="75%"> +<tr><td> </td><td align="right">PAGE</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_1">ST. ALBANS CATHEDRAL FROM THE SOUTH</a></td><td class="tocpn"><i>frontispiece</i></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_2">ARMS OF THE SEE</a></td><td class="tocpn"><i>title-page</i></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_3">VIEW FROM THE NORTH-EAST BEFORE RESTORATION</a></td><td class="tocpn">2</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_4">ST. ALBANS ABBEY BEFORE 1874</a></td><td class="tocpn">3</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_5">PLAN OF THE NORMAN CHURCH</a></td><td class="tocpn">9</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_6">THE SOUTH-WEST PORTAL BEFORE THE REBUILDING OF THE WEST FRONT</a></td><td class="tocpn">11</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_7">EXTERIOR OF THE LADY CHAPEL BEFORE 1874</a></td><td class="tocpn">15</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_8">INTERIOR OF THE LADY CHAPEL BEFORE 1874</a></td><td class="tocpn">16</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_9">THE ARCADE IN THE SLYPE BEFORE ITS REMOVAL</a></td><td class="tocpn">20</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_10">FLOOR TILE</a></td><td class="tocpn">21</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_11">THE ANGLE BETWEEN NAVE AND TRANSEPT</a></td><td class="tocpn">22</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_12">THE NEW WEST FRONT</a></td><td class="tocpn">23</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_13">THE SOUTH TRANSEPT AS REBUILT</a></td><td class="tocpn">27</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_14">THE LADY CHAPEL CHOIR AND TRANSEPT FROM THE SOUTH-EAST</a></td><td class="tocpn">28</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_15">VIEW FROM THE NORTH-EAST</a></td><td class="tocpn">30</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_17">THREE OLD FLOOR TILES</a></td><td class="tocpn">32</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_17">THE NAVE FROM THE WEST END</a></td><td class="tocpn">34</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_18">BASE OF INCOMPLETE PIER</a></td><td class="tocpn">37</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_19">PLAN OF PIER</a></td><td class="tocpn">37</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_20">ARCADE ON NORTH SIDE OF NAVE</a></td><td class="tocpn">38</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_21">EASTERN PART OF THE NORTH SIDE OF NAVE</a></td><td class="tocpn">39</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_22">NORTH NAVE ARCADE, WESTERN END</a></td><td class="tocpn">41</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_23">SOUTH NAVE ARCADE</a></td><td class="tocpn">43</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_24">SOUTH AISLE OF NAVE</a></td><td class="tocpn">45</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_25">HOLY WATER STOUP</a></td><td class="tocpn">46</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_26">NORTH AISLE OF NAVE</a></td><td class="tocpn">47</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_27">SAXON BALUSTER SHAFTS IN SOUTH TRANSEPT</a></td><td class="tocpn">50</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_28">DOORWAY IN SOUTH TRANSEPT</a></td><td class="tocpn">51</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_29">THE CROSSING LOOKING WESTWARD</a></td><td class="tocpn">54</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_30">THE CHOIR</a></td><td class="tocpn">55</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_31">THE WALLINGFORD SCREEN</a></td><td class="tocpn">58</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_32">KEY TO THE SCULPTURE</a></td><td class="tocpn">59</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_33">THE RAMRYGE CHANTRY</a></td><td class="tocpn">60</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_34">SOUTH AISLE OF PRESBYTERY</a></td><td class="tocpn">62</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_35">WOODEN FIGURE OF MENDICANT</a></td><td class="tocpn">63</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_36">RETRO-CHOIR</a></td><td class="tocpn">64</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_37">BASE OF THE SHRINE OF ST. AMPHIBALUS</a></td><td class="tocpn">65</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_38">BACK OF THE WATCHING LOFT</a></td><td class="tocpn">66</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_39">RAMRYGE'S CHANTRY FROM THE AISLE</a></td><td class="tocpn">67</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_40">ONE OF THE OLD WESTERN DOORS</a></td><td class="tocpn">68</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_41">LADY CHAPEL</a></td><td class="tocpn">69</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_42">PEDESTAL OF ST. ALBANS SHRINE</a></td><td class="tocpn">73</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_43">WATCHING LOFT</a></td><td class="tocpn">75</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_44">MONUMENT OF HUMPHREY, DUKE OF GLOUCESTER</a></td><td class="tocpn">77</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_45">SOUTH CHOIR AISLE</a></td><td class="tocpn">80</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_46">JOHN OF WHEATHAMPSTEAD'S CHANTRY</a></td><td class="tocpn">100</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_47">OLD FLOOR TILE</a></td><td class="tocpn">105</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_48">THE GREAT GATE</a></td><td class="tocpn">106</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_49">MONUMENT OF LORD BACON</a></td><td class="tocpn">109</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_50">THE OLD ROUND HOUSE</a></td><td class="tocpn">111</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#illus_51">PLAN OF THE CATHEDRAL</a></td><td class="tocpn">116</td></tr> +</table> +<hr /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="illus_3" id="illus_3"></a> +<a href="./images/image03.jpg"> +<img src="images/image03_th.jpg" alt="VIEW FROM THE NORTH-EAST BEFORE RESTORATION." /></a> +<span class="caption">VIEW FROM THE NORTH-EAST BEFORE RESTORATION.</span> + +<hr /> + +<a name="illus_4" id="illus_4"></a> +<a href="./images/image04.jpg"><img src="images/image04_th.jpg" alt="ST. ALBANS ABBEY, BEFORE 1874." /></a> +<span class="caption">ST. ALBANS ABBEY, BEFORE 1874.</span> +</div> + +<h1><a name="chapter_1" id="chapter_1"></a>ST. ALBANS CATHEDRAL</h1> + +<h2>CHAPTER I.<br /> +<span class="subtitle">HISTORY OF THE BUILDING.</span></h2> + + +<p>Long before any church stood on the site of the present cathedral, long +before the time of Albanus, who is universally allowed to have been the +first Christian martyr whose blood was shed in this island, events that +have found a place in the early history of Britain occurred in the +immediate neighbourhood of the city we call St. Albans. Here in all +probability stood the <i>oppidum</i> or stockaded stronghold of +Cassivellaunus, who was chosen to lead the tribes of South-Eastern Britain +when Julius Caesar in the year 54 B.C. made his second descent on the +island. We all know the story, how the Britons gave Caesar so much +trouble that, when at last Roman discipline had secured the victory, he, +demanding tribute and receiving hostages as guarantees for its payment, +left Britain and never cared to venture upon any fresh invasion. We know +that the Trinobantes were the first to sue for peace, and, abandoning +Cassivellaunus, left him to bear the brunt of Caesar's attack upon his +stronghold, how this was destroyed by Caesar, and how Cassivellaunus also +was obliged to make submission to the Romans.</p> +<p> +<a name="page_4" id="page_4"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 4]</span><span class="pagenum">[Pg 4]</span>Nearly a century passed before any Roman legionary again set +foot on the British shores; but when at last, in the days of Claudius, +A.D. 42, the Romans invaded the island, they came to conquer and occupy +all except the northern part of Britain. In the early days of their +occupation a walled town, which was soon raised to the rank of a +<i>municipium</i>, was built on the south-western side of the Ver, and +from the name of the river was called Verulamium or Verlamium. It soon +became a populous place, for when in A.D. 61 Boadicea, the Queen of the +Iceni, stung by the insults and injuries she and her daughters had +received at the hands of the Romans, raised her own and the neighbouring +tribes to take vengeance on their oppressors and</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<span class="i0">Ran the land with Roman slaughter, multitudinous agonies;</span> +<span class="i0">Perish'd many a maid and matron, many a valorous legionary;</span> +<span class="i0">Fell the colony, city, and citadel, London, Verulam, Camulodune.</span> +</div> + +<p>It is recorded that no less than seventy thousand fell in these three +places and the villages around them.</p> + +<p>But her vengeance, sharp and sudden, was not allowed to pass unpunished by +the Romans, and Suetonius Paulinus, hurrying from North Wales, though too +late to save the three towns, utterly routed the forces of Boadicea +somewhere between London and Colchester.</p> + +<p>After this Verulamium became once more a prosperous town, inhabited partly +by Romans, partly by Britons, who under Roman influence embraced the +civilization and adopted the customs of their conquerors. By whom +Christianity was first introduced into Britain we do not know; probably it +was brought from Gaul. In the reign of Diocletian a great persecution of +the Christians arose throughout the Roman empire. The edict enjoining this +persecution was promulgated in February, 303 A.D., and the persecution +lasted until the Emperor abdicated in May, 305 A.D. It was carried out in +Britain by Maximianus Herculius and Asclepiodotus, and it was during this +persecution that St. Alban won the martyr's crown. Though the story is +embellished with certain miraculous incidents which most of us will reject +as accretions of later ages, yet there seems no reason to doubt the main +facts.</p> + +<p>Albanus, or Alban, as we generally call him, was a young soldier and a +heathen, but being a man of a pitiful heart, he gave <a name="page_5" id="page_5"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 5]</span>shelter +to a certain deacon named Amphibalus, who was in danger of +death. Amphibalus returned his kindness by teaching him the outlines of +the Christian religion, which Alban accepted. When at last the +persecutors had discovered the hiding-place of Amphibalus, Alban, in order +to aid his escape, changed garments with the deacon, and allowed himself +to be taken in his stead, while Amphibalus made his way into Wales, where, +however, he was ultimately captured and was brought back by the +persecutors, who possibly intended to put him to death at Verulamium, but +for some reason which we do not understand he was executed about four +miles from the city at a spot where the village of Redbourn now stands, +the parish church of which is dedicated to him. Meanwhile Alban was +charged with aiding and abetting the escape of a blasphemer of the Roman +gods, and then and there declared that he too was a Christian. He was +ordered to offer incense on the altar of one of the Roman gods, but +refused, and as a consequence was condemned to be beheaded. The place +chosen for his execution was a grassy hill on the further side of the +river Ver. Great was the excitement among the inhabitants of Verulamium, +for as yet they had seen no Christian put to death, and Alban was, +moreover, a man of some mark in the place. So great was the crowd that it +blocked the only bridge across the stream; but Alban did not desire to +delay his death, so walked down to the river-bank. At once the waters +opened before him, and he, the executioner, and the guards passed dry-shod +to the opposite bank. This wonder so struck the executioner, that he, +throwing down his sword, declared he would not behead Alban and also +professed himself a Christian. When the band reached the hill Alban craved +water to quench his thirst, for it was a hot summer day, June 22,<a name="footref_1" id="footref_1" href="#footnote_1"><span class="fnanchor">1</span></a> and +at once a spring burst forth at his feet. One of the soldiers struck off +the martyr's head, but his own eyes fell on the ground together with it; +the executioner who had refused to do his duty was beheaded at the same +time. These miracles are said to have so much impressed the judge that he +ordered the persecution to cease. The traditional site of the martyrdom is +covered by the north arm of the transept of the present church, and this +site is <a name="page_6" id="page_6"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 6]</span>in accordance with Beda's account, which states that +St. Alban was martyred about five hundred paces from the summit of the +hill. When persecution had entirely ceased, a few years after Alban's +death, a church was built over the spot hallowed by his blood. Beda, +writing at the beginning of the eighth century, speaks of the original +church as existing, and describes it as being a church of wonderful +workmanship and worthy of the martrydom it commemorated. But in all +probability the church standing in Beda's time was not the original one; +this no doubt had been swept away during the time of the English invasion +of Britain, when, as Matthew Paris tells us, the body of Alban was moved +for safety from within the church to some other spot, whence it was +afterwards brought back and replaced in the original grave.</p> + +<p>That the spot was held in some reverence as early as the fifth century is +proved by the conduct of Germanus, Bishop of Auxerre. A synod was held at +Verulamium in the year 429 A.D. to condemn the "Pelagian heresy" which +had budded forth anew in the island, having had its origin in the teaching +of the British monk Pelagius towards the end of the fourth century. +Germanus and Lupus, Bishop of Troyes, attended this Council and refuted +the followers of Pelagius. It is said that Germanus opened the coffin of +the martyr and deposited in it some precious relics, receiving in return +for them some relics from the coffin, and a piece of turf cut from the +site of the martyrdom.</p> + +<p>From this time we hear nothing for several centuries of the church or the +neighbouring town of Verulamium, save that after the Teutonic conquest the +town was known by the name of Werlamceaster, Watlingceaster, or +Waetlingaceaster, the two latter names being derived from that of the +Roman road, the Watling Street that runs through it. The site of the +martyrdom also received a new name—Holmehurst or Derswold.</p> + +<p>The next event recorded in connection with our subject is the founding of +a Benedictine monastery by Offa II., King of the Mercians, about the year +793 A.D. He searched for and found the coffin that contained the martyr's +bones. This, as already stated, had been removed from the original church +dedicated to his memory, in order to save it from destruction at the hands +of the Teutonic invaders, and had remained concealed, its very position +forgotten, until it was miraculously revealed. The coffin was then opened; +the martyr's body and the relics given by Germanus were found therein, and +thus the identity of the remains <a name="page_7" id="page_7"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 7]</span>with those of Alban was +established beyond doubt. Round the martyr's head Offa placed a golden +circlet whereon were written the words: "Hoc est caput Sancti Albani." A +reliquary richly decorated with precious stones was made to receive the +body, and this was then deposited in the then existing church, which Offa +repaired so that it might serve as a temporary resting-place until a +grander church could be built. Offa had made a journey to Rome to get the +Pope's consent to the foundation and endowment of the monastery.<a name="footref_2" id="footref_2" href="#footnote_2"><span class="fnanchor">2</span></a> At +this time also Alban was canonized, so that henceforth he may be rightly +spoken of as Saint Alban.</p> + +<p>All that Offa seems to have been able to do besides repairing the church +was to erect domestic buildings for his monks, who in course of time +numbered a hundred. We have no record of any partial rebuilding, or +enlargement even, of the church of Offa's day. From the fact that certain +remains of it were incorporated in the present building, and that these +were of the character generally called "Saxon," there is little doubt that +the church of the monastery was not the little church erected in the +fourth century over the martyr's grave, but one of later date, probably +the one described by Beda as standing in his day, built in the latter part +of the sixth or in the seventh century. We have no further record of this +church, but we know that the ninth Abbot, Eadmer, began to collect +materials for rebuilding the church; but the work was not begun until the +time of the fourteenth Abbot, Paul of Caen, who was appointed by William +I. So enthusiastically did he work, that in the short space of eleven +years (1077-88) the church was rebuilt. The rapidity of the building was +no doubt chiefly due to the fact that there was no need of hewing and +squaring stone, for the Roman bricks from the ruins of the old city of +Verulam were ready at hand, and the timber collected by Paul's five +predecessors was well seasoned. It is said that the new church was not +dedicated until the year 1115, but it is hard to believe that so long a +space of time as <a name="page_8" id="page_8"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 8]</span>twenty-seven years would be allowed to +elapse between the completion of the building and the dedication. It is +possible there may be some error in this date.</p> + +<p>We can form a good idea of this Norman church. It was like several of the +other cathedral and abbey churches built at the same time, of vast size, +far grander than their prototype in Normandy, St. Stephen's at Caen. The +following table gives approximately the dimensions of some of these +churches:</p> + +<table summary="Comparison of the lengths of the naves of five Norman +churches in England." cellspacing="3"> +<tr><th rowspan="2"> </th><th rowspan="2">Length<br />of Nave.</th><th colspan="3">Number of Bays.</th><th>Total Length.</th></tr> +<tr><th>Nave.</th><th>Presbytery.</th><th>Apse.</th></tr> +<tr><td align="left">St. Stephen's, Caen</td><td align="right">193</td><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">…</td><td align="right">290</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Canterbury</td><td align="right">185</td><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">5</td><td align="right">290</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Winchester</td><td align="right">318</td><td align="right">14</td><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">5</td><td align="right">…</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">St. Albans</td><td align="right">275</td><td align="right">13</td><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">…</td><td align="right">460</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Bury St. Edmund's</td><td align="right">300</td><td align="right">15</td><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">490</td></tr> +</table> + + +<p>The church consisted of a nave with aisles; the arches of the main arcade +were semicircular, the piers massive and rectangular; there were no +mouldings, the orders of the arches, like the piers, having rectangular +corners. There were possibly two western towers, which stood, like those +of Rouen and Wells, outside the aisles on the north and south +respectively, not at the western ends of the aisles (a far more common +position), thus giving a much greater width and imposing appearance to the +west front.</p> + +<p>The existence of western towers of Norman date has been doubted by some +antiquaries; some indeed imagine that John de Cella's thirteenth-century +west front was built several bays further to the west than the Norman +façade, and that the foundations of the unfinished towers were laid of old +material by him. It is impossible to be absolutely certain on this point, +but the argument sometimes brought forward that the nave was inordinately +long for one of Norman date may be answered by mention of the fact that +the Norman naves at Bury and Winchester were even longer, and that +generally the Norman builders delighted in long structural naves, the +eastern bays of which, however, were, together with the space beneath the +towers, used for the choir or seats for the monks, the eastern part of the +church beyond the crossing being generally occupied by the presbytery and +the sanctuary where the high altar stood. In after times, however, +considerable eastward extensions were made, as at Canterbury, and the +monks' seats were then in many cases <a name="page_9" id="page_9"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 9]</span>moved eastward into the +part of the church beyond the tower, the rood-screen being stretched +across the church between the eastern piers that supported the tower.<a name="footref_3" id="footref_3" href="#footnote_3"><span class="fnanchor">3</span></a></p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 207px;"> +<a name="illus_5" id="illus_5"></a> +<a href="./images/image05.png"><img src="images/image05_th.png" alt="PLAN OF THE NORMAN CHURCH." /></a> +<span class="caption">PLAN OF THE NORMAN CHURCH. From Sir Gilbert Scott's Lectures. (By permission of Mr. John Murray.</span> +</div> + + +<p>The transept had no aisles either on its eastern or western side; the +eastern termination differed much from anything in existence now.</p> + +<p>Mr. Prior in his "History of Gothic Art in England" tells us that two +types of east end were to be found in the Anglo-Norman churches, both +brought from the Continent, one the chevet prevalent in Northern France, +the other derived originally from fourth and fifth century churches of the +East, passing to Lombardy in the ninth century, and then along the Rhine +and even reaching Normandy. Such was the original eastern termination of +St. Stephen's, Caen; such may still be seen in St. Nicholas', Caen. This +east end consisted of a number of parallel aisles, each with its own apse +at its eastern end. "Norman use had squared the aisle endings of the choir +two bays beyond the cross, the apse projecting its half circle beyond +this, as at St. Etienne's, Caen, and in this form Lanfranc's Canterbury +had been built."<a name="footref_4" id="footref_4" href="#footnote_4"><span class="fnanchor">4</span></a></p> +<p> +<a name="page_10" id="page_10"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 10]</span>In St. Albans this plan was further developed; from each arm +of the transept two apses projected eastward, the outer ones consisting +only of a semicircular projection from the transept, the inner ones of a +rectangular bay from which the semicircular part ran eastward. The choir +aisles, as we should now call them, consisted of four bays, beyond which +they ended in a projection semicircular within, but rectangular when seen +from the outside, the walls being thickened at the corners. These aisles +were divided from the presbytery not by open arcading but by solid +walls. The presbytery itself terminated in a semicircle projecting beyond +the ends of the aisles. This extended as far as the centre of the present +retro-choir.</p> + +<p>Above the crossing rose the central tower, much as we see it to-day, save +that it was probably crowned with a pyramidal cap rising from its outside +walls. Probably also the tower as well as the rest of the church was +covered with whitewashed plaster, thus hiding the material of which it was +built—the Roman bricks of which mention has been already made. These +bricks surpass in hardness and durability those of modern days, and are of +different size and shape from those we are acquainted with. Those used in +St. Albans are of two sizes, 17 × 8 × 2 and 11 × 5œ × 2. The joints are +wide, the mortar between the courses being almost as thick as the +bricks. The window jambs and the piers were built or faced with brick; +even the staircases were of brick. What stone was used is clunch, from +Tottenhoe in Bedfordshire, which, according to Lord Grimthorpe, is +admirably suited for interior work, but absolutely worthless for exterior, +as it decays very soon, and if it gets damp is shivered into powder by +frost.</p> + +<p><a name="page_11" id="page_11"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 11]</span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="illus_6" id="illus_6"></a> +<a href="./images/image06.png"> +<img src="images/image06_th.png" alt="THE SOUTH-WESTERN PORTAL, BEFORE THE REBUILDING OF THE WEST FRONT" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">THE SOUTH-WESTERN PORTAL, BEFORE THE REBUILDING OF THE WEST +FRONT.<br />From a drawing by W.S. Weatherley, in Sir G. Scott's "Lectures +on Mediaeval Architecture." (By permission of Mr. John Murray.)</span></div> + +<p>The Norman church, finished as we have seen in 1088, stood without change +for rather more than a century. Then changes began. Abbot John de Cella +(1195-1214) pulled down the west front and began to build a new one in its +place. He laid the foundation of the whole front, but then went on with +the north side first. The north porch was nearly finished in his time; the +central porch was carried up as far as the spring of the arch; the +southern porch was carried hardly any way up from the foundations.<a name="footref_5" id="footref_5" href="#footnote_5"><span class="fnanchor">5</span></a> The +porches are described by those who saw them<a name="page_12" id="page_12"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 12]</span> +before Lord Grimthorpe swept away the whole west front as +some of the choicest specimens of thirteenth-century work in England. The +mouldings were of great delicacy, and were enriched with dog-tooth +ornament. It is said that Abbot John was not a good man of business, and +that he was sorely robbed and cheated by his builders, and so had not +money enough to finish the work that he had planned. To his successor, +William of Trumpington, it therefore fell to carry on the work. He was a +man of a more practical character, though not equal to his predecessor in +matters of taste. He finished the main part of the western front. Oddly +enough no dog-tooth ornament was used in the central and southern porches, +and the character of the carved foliage differs also from that of the +north porch. In Abbot John's undoubted work the curling leaves overlap, +and have strongly defined stems resembling the foliage of Lincoln choir, +while that of Abbot William's time had the ordinary character of the Early +English style. There is evidence to show that he intended to vault the +church with a stone roof; this may be seen from the marble vaulting shafts +on the north side of the nave between the arches of the main arcade, +which, however, are not carried higher than the string-course below the +triforium. The idea of a stone vault was, however, abandoned before the +two eastern Early English bays on the south side were built, for no +preparation for vaulting shafts exists there.</p> + +<p>Abbot John de Cella had begun to build afresh the western towers, or, +according to some authorities, to build the first western towers that the +church ever had; we have no record of their completion, and it is said +that Abbot William abandoned the idea. We have only the foundations by +which we can determine their size. William of Trumpington transformed the +windows of the aisles into Early English ones. He also added a wooden +lantern to the tower, somewhat in the style of the wooden octagon on the +central tower of Ely.</p> + +<p>At some time, but we do not know exactly when, the Church or Chapel of +St. Andrew adjoining the north nave aisle of the monks' church, extending +as far east as the sixth bay, was built for the use of the parishioners, +who had no right to enter the monastic church. This Church of St. Andrew +opened into the north aisle of the Abbey Church, being separated from it +by an arcade of four arches. It had a nave with aisle and chancel. Its +total length was about 140 feet, its width about 61 feet. It<a name="page_13" id="page_13"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 13]</span> +is conjectured that the north-western tower was converted into a kind +of antechapel or entrance porch for the Church of St. Andrew. There was a +door leading from the aisle of the Abbey Church into the chancel of +St. Andrew's; this door, walled up, may still be seen in the fifth bay +from the west end. In order to avoid the necessity of returning again to +the history of this church, it may here be stated that it was rebuilt by +John Wheathampstead after he had been re-elected to the office of Abbot in +1451; and that it was destroyed after the dissolution of the monastery, +when there was no longer any need for it, as the parishioners bought the +Abbey Church for parochial use. The place of the old arcading was then +taken by a blank wall without any windows; this was pulled down and the +present wall built by Lord Grimthorpe.</p> + +<p>In the latter half of the thirteenth century the reconstruction of the +eastern end was begun by Abbot John of Hertford. Here, as in many other +churches, the Norman choir was too short for thirteenth-century +requirements. The walls of the presbytery were raised and its high-pitched +roof converted into a flat one. The church was gradually extended eastward +by Abbots Roger of Norton and John of Berkhampstead; first the Saint's +Chapel was built, then the retro-choir, and finally the Lady Chapel, which +was finished by Abbot Hugh of Eversden in 1326.</p> + +<p>Another change was necessitated by an event which took place on +St. Paulinus' Day, October 10th, of the year 1323. For on that day a +calamity such as had never before happened befell the church. The +celebration of Mass at an altar of the Blessed Virgin was just over, a +great multitude of people, men and women, still being in the church, when +two of the Norman piers of the main arcade on the south side fell outwards +one after the other with a great crash, and about the space of an hour +afterwards the wooden roof of the nave which had been supported by these +columns also fell; the piers themselves had crushed the south wall of the +aisle and the cloisters, so that a complete wreck was made of the +south-eastern part of the church westward of the tower. But this disaster +was accompanied by a great marvel, for though many persons were standing +close by, not one was injured; and a still more wonderful thing is +recorded: the monk whose duty it was to guard the shrine of +St. Amphibalus, which at that time stood in the nave, had been celebrating +<a name="page_14" id="page_14"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 14]</span>at the altar—he had finished even to the washing of the +sacred vessels—when he saw the columns fall; he withdrew a little from +the altar and received no harm. Some of the wreckage fell on the shrine of +St. Amphibalus, and though the marble pillars supporting the canopy were +broken, yet the chest which contained his relics suffered no harm. This +wonderful preservation of life and limb and shrine was naturally +attributed to the intervention of the blessed martyr St. Amphibalus.</p> + +<p>Abbot Hugh of Eversden began to rebuild this ruined part of the church, +and this accounts for the five bays of the nave arcading westward of the +rood-screen being in fourteenth-century style. He did not live to finish +all this work, but it was carried on by his successor, Richard of +Wallingford (1326-1335), and finished by the next Abbot, Michael of +Mentmore, about 1345. The present rood-screen, which probably took the +place of a previously existing one of Norman date, was built in 1360 by +Thomas de la Mare. No further change of importance was made until the time +of John of Wheathampstead, who was Abbot from 1420 to 1440, and again from +1451 to 1464. He left his marks in various parts of the Abbey, and for the +most part his work was bad: he did almost as much to injure the Abbey as +the nineteenth-century restorers who swept away much of his work have +done. He rebuilt all the upper part of the west front, and inserted +Perpendicular windows at each end of the transept; he turned the +high-pitched roofs of nave and transepts into flat ones, and lowered the +slope of the roofs of the aisles. His object in doing this was to be able +to use the old beams again whose ends were decayed, and which were +shortened by cutting off the unsound parts. The result of this was that +the Norman triforium arches on the north side were thrown open to the sky; +these he filled with Perpendicular tracery, converting them into windows. +The tracery still remains, although the new roof has the same slope as the +original one, and the triforium is now again inclosed beneath it. He also +pulled down the wooden octagon on the central tower. His chantry on the +south side of the high altar was probably erected soon after his death.</p> + +<p>Abbot William of Wallingford (1476-1484) built the high altar screen, +carrying out a plan which John of Wheathampstead had not been able to +accomplish. The only addition made after this to the Abbey is the chantry +of Thomas Ramryge, who became Abbot in 1492. The exact date of its +construction is not known, <a name="page_15" id="page_15"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 15]</span>all records of the Abbey during +Ramryge's rule having perished; but from its style it is generally +supposed to have been built about the year 1520. During the reign of Henry +VIII. all the monasteries were dissolved; first the smaller, then the more +important ones, among them that of St. Albans. The fortieth and last Abbot +of St. Albans, Richard Boreman of Stevenage, surrendered the Abbey on +December 5th, 1539, he and the monks receiving pensions as compensation.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="illus_7" id="illus_7"></a> +<a href="./images/image07.jpg"> +<img src="images/image07_th.jpg" alt="EXTERIOR OF LADY CHAPEL WHEN USED AS THE GRAMMAR SCHOOL +BEFORE 1874." /></a> +<span class="caption">EXTERIOR OF LADY CHAPEL WHEN USED AS THE GRAMMAR SCHOOL +BEFORE 1874.</span></div> + + +<p>In February of the following year the King granted to Sir Richard Lee all +the monastic buildings, but not the Abbey Church or the adjoining Chapel +of St. Andrew, with all the land lying round the Abbey Church. Lee +promptly proceeded to destroy all the domestic buildings. The church +remained in the possession of the Crown till 1553, when the town obtained +a charter from Edward VI. This, among other provisions, empowered<a name="page_16" id="page_16"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 16]</span> +it to erect a grammar school within the church or in some other +convenient place. The town authorities thereupon converted the Lady Chapel +and the retro-choir into the grammar school. A passage was cut through the +retro-choir, bounded by brick walls on either side; this was used as a +public pathway until 1874, when it was closed, and again became part of +the church. The part to the east of the passage served as the grammar +school until 1870. The mayor and burgesses by the same charter received +the Abbey Church, in return for £400, to be used as their parish church; +and in May, 1553, the first rector, George Wetherall, took charge of the +building.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 290px;"> +<a name="illus_8" id="illus_8"></a> +<a href="./images/image08.jpg"> +<img src="images/image08_th.jpg" alt="INTERIOR OF THE LADY CHAPEL BEFORE 1874." /></a> +<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF THE LADY CHAPEL BEFORE 1874.<br /> +(From the Official Guide to the Great Northern Railway.)</span> +</div> + + +<p>The parishioners thus found themselves in possession of an enormous +building which they had not sufficient money to keep in proper repair. In +1612, and again in 1681, briefs or letters patent were issued by royal +authority, ordering collections to be made in all churches in England for +the repair of St. Albans Church. In 1689 a grant was made by William and +Mary. These sums were spent on various repairs, such as altering the +belfry windows, "filling up" with earth "the hollow in the wing," that is, +raising the level of the floor of the south arm of the transept. In 1695 +similar work was done in the north aisle; in 1704 a new window, a wooden +one, was inserted in the south end of the transept, in place of +Wheathampstead's, which had <a name="page_17" id="page_17"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 17]</span>been blown in by a gale during +the previous year. There are records of £100 being spent in recasting some +of the bells between 1705 and 1707.</p> + +<p>Money was again collected in 1721 by letters patent, and this was spent on +repairing the ceilings. About the same time a legacy was spent in repaving +the nave, and the west ends of the aisles were blocked by brick +walls. Some slight repairs were done about 1764, when a fresh collection +was made.</p> + +<p>More extensive repairs were made in 1832: the roof was releaded, such of +the clerestory windows as had been closed were reglazed, and the south +window of the transept was rebuilt in stone. The choir, after the repairs, +was opened for service in 1833. The nave to the west of the rood-screen +was more or less in a dilapidated condition, protected by the releaded +roof, but not used. The presbytery had been fitted up in Georgian style as +a chancel, the organ stood in the north arm of the transept, and high pews +filled the choir westward as far as the rood-screen. This was the +condition of the part of the church which was used up to 1870.</p> + +<p>In 1856 a scheme was started for getting the Abbey Church raised to +cathedral rank, and also for restoring the fabric. Mr. (afterwards Sir) +Gilbert Scott was appointed architect, and was empowered to do what he +thought most pressing as far as funds would allow; the flat roof of the +north aisle was renewed, drainage attended to, and foundations +strengthened; the floor at the south end of the transept was lowered—it +will be remembered that it had been raised in 1692—the vaults were filled +with concrete, and the floor repaved. The presbytery was repaved with +tiles copied from some old ones. The Georgian fittings were removed to the +nave; fragments of the tabernacles, which we now see over the doors +leading from the aisles into the presbytery, having been discovered, the +tabernacles were reconstructed of the old with some new material. But more +important work had to be undertaken in 1870. On Sunday, July 31st, the +sound of cracking was heard in the tower, and Mr. J. Chapple, the clerk of +the works, went up the next day to London to see Scott and asked him to +come down at once to examine the tower; plaster was put over the crack to +see if it was increasing or not. There were soon signs that the mischief +was getting worse, and Scott ordered the tower to be shored up with +timber, and temporary brick walls to be built below it. It seemed that the +<a name="page_18" id="page_18"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 18]</span>rubble of the eastern piers had been made of mortar which +had turned into dust, and that a big hole had been cut in the +south-eastern pier. This, according to Lord Grimthorpe, had apparently +been done with the intention of demolishing the tower, probably soon after +the time of the dissolution of the monastery, for the hole contained +timber shores which were sufficient to support the tower while the workmen +were enlarging the hole, but which were probably intended to be set on +fire and burnt away, thus allowing the workmen to escape before the tower +fell. This wood was found partially decayed, and probably to its state +the settlement of the tower was partially due. The hole was, by Scott's +direction, filled with bricks laid in cement, and cement was poured in to +fill up all the interstices; some of the decayed rubble was cut out of the +piers and brickwork put in to take its place: the walls were tied with +Yorkshire flagstone and iron rods, and were grouted with liquid cement +wherever possible. It was an anxious time for those in charge of the work; +it was only after many days and nights of incessant labour, that they felt +sure that the sinking of the tower was arrested and that the new work was +holding up the weight.</p> + +<p>In 1875 it was discovered that the south-west clerestory was beginning to +crumble away. Lord Grimthorpe had this shored up at his own expense. A new +committee was soon after this appointed, and in March, 1877, a faculty was +granted to this committee "to repair the church and fit it for cathedral +and parochial services." The first Bishop, Dr. Claughton, who up to this +time had been Bishop of Rochester, choosing the northern of the two parts +into which his diocese was divided, was enthroned as Bishop of St. Albans +on June 12th, 1877, and on the following day the restoration of the nave +was begun. The church was in a very bad state: the weight of the roof and +injudicious repairs had thrust the clerestory walls about forty inches out +of the vertical plane. There was much controversy at the time as to what +should be done, and in the middle of it Sir Gilbert Scott died, in March, +1878. In May, however, the roof having been lifted, the leaning walls were +forced up into a vertical position by hydraulic pressure. Some of the +restorers were in favour of retaining a flat roof; others advocated +putting on a high-pitched one again, raising its ridge to the height of +the original Norman roof, as indicated by the weather marks on the tower. +Fortunately the latter course was adopted; fortunately because<a name="page_19" id="page_19"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 19]</span> +the church, seen from the outside, lacks height in proportion to its +length, and the ridge of the roof now visible above the parapets has given +it some of the extra height it so much needed. The subsequent raising of +the transept and presbytery roofs on the other three sides of the tower +was necessitated by the raising of the roof of the nave.</p> + +<p>Lord Grimthorpe drew up a list of "symptoms of ruin," twenty-two in +number, which it would take too much space to reproduce here; but unless +his account is exaggerated, it would seem that scarcely any part of the +building save the tower could be looked on as secure. He applied for a new +faculty which would give him unlimited power to "restore, repair, and +refit the church." This faculty was granted, and he exercised his powers +to the full; and as a result, though the church has been made sound and +secure, probably for many centuries to come, yet many of its most +interesting features have been destroyed, the most terrible damage having +been done in the transept.</p> + +<p>The west front which he rebuilt, though not altogether satisfactory, yet +is greatly superior in design to his subsequent work at the south and +north ends of the transept. These originally had corner turrets, octagonal +in plan; these turrets were pulled down and square ones, finished by +pyramidal caps, put in their place. The entire south front of the +transept was pulled down and rebuilt, and a new window consisting of five +lancets occupying its whole width inserted. The central light rises high +into the gable and above the level of the inner ceiling. The lancets on +either side are intermediate in height between the central and side ones +when they are seen from without, but when seen from within the tops of all +are of the same height, as they could not be raised above the level of the +ceiling. The parts of the three middle lancets seen from without above +this level are backed up with black felt across the ceiling, and their +upper parts light the space between the ceiling and the high roof. This +window is a feeble imitation of the "Five Sisters" of York, and is utterly +out of place in the narrow transept at St. Albans; but bad as this south +window is, the one at the north end of the transept is worse. Here Lord +Grimthorpe inserted a circular window, the design being such as a child +might make who was given a sheet of cardboard with a large circle drawn on +it, which he was requested to cover symmetrically with a number of +half-crowns, shillings, and sixpences. Another piece of unnecessary +alteration <a name="page_20" id="page_20"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 20]</span>was the destruction of the slype at the south end +and the re-erection of its disjointed members as curiosities in the new +work, its western doorway, with an added order, having been let into the +centre of the south wall of the transept, and the arcading placed in two +different positions.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 295px;"> +<a name="illus_9" id="illus_9"></a> +<a href="./images/image09.jpg"> +<img src="images/image09_th.jpg" alt="THE ARCADE IN THE SLYPE BEFORE ITS REMOVAL." /></a> +<span class="caption">THE ARCADE IN THE SLYPE BEFORE ITS REMOVAL.</span> +</div> + +<p>More satisfactory is the work in the Lady Chapel and the space sometimes +called the antechapel; here the old carving had been terribly mutilated by +many generations of schoolboys, and the new work which has been put in is +good of its kind, and distinctive in its treatment. Lord Grimthorpe +vaulted the Lady Chapel in stone. Much other work was done by him in +various parts of the building. He rebuilt the clerestory windows of the +<a name="page_21" id="page_21"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 21]</span>presbytery and some of those in the nave; introduced windows +into the blank walls at the western part of the nave, both on the north +and south, for which he deserves commendation, as the original reason for +no windows having existed here was only that the monastic buildings, now +destroyed, abutted against the south aisle of the nave, and the Church of +St. Andrew stood on the north side; when this church was pulled down a +plain wall was built, and the thrust of the roof had forced this and the +original wall on the south side outwards, after the buildings which had +acted as buttresses had been removed.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;"> +<a name="illus_10" id="illus_10"></a> +<img src="images/image10.png" alt="FLOOR TILE WITH ARMS OF BEAUCHAMP." /> +</div> + +<p>One piece of modern restoration was not done by Lord Grimthorpe, namely +that of the Wallingford screen behind the high altar. The statues on this +having been destroyed and the screen itself damaged, Mr. H.H. Gibbs, now +Lord Aldenham, offered to restore it, working under Lord Grimthorpe's +faculty. After a time a dispute arose between them, chiefly over the +introduction of a statue of Christ on the Cross in the centre of the +screen, and the erection of an altar with a stone top below it. This led +to a lawsuit, the final result of which was that Mr. Gibbs was allowed to +finish the screen in his own way, but not to do anything to any other part +of the church, a thing he wished to do. The altar is not yet in position; +when this is placed where it is intended to stand, the work of restoration +will be complete, and nave, choir and presbytery, and Lady Chapel will +then alike be capable of being used for service, forming in reality three +distinct and fully fitted churches under one roof, the retro-choir being +intended for use as a chapter-house whenever a chapter shall be created.</p> + + + +<p><a name="page_22" id="page_22"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 22]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 319px;"> +<a name="illus_11" id="illus_11"></a> +<a href="./images/image11.jpg"><img src="images/image11_th.jpg" alt="ANGLE BETWEEN NAVE AND TRANSEPT." /></a> +<span class="caption">ANGLE BETWEEN NAVE AND TRANSEPT.</span> +</div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page_23" id="page_23"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 23]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="illus_12" id="illus_12"></a> +<a href="./images/image12.jpg"> +<img src="images/image12_th.jpg" alt="THE NEW WEST FRONT." /></a> +<span class="caption">THE NEW WEST FRONT.</span> +</div> + + + +<h2><a name="chapter_2" id="chapter_2"></a>CHAPTER II.<br /> +<span class="subtitle">THE EXTERIOR.</span></h2> + + +<p>The visitor who wishes to obtain, at first sight, the most impressive view +of the Cathedral Church of St. Alban, should alight at the London and +North-Western Station, at which all the trains from Euston and many of +those from King's Cross arrive. This station is about half a mile south of +the city, and from it a road runs up Holywell Hill, which, passing +eastwards of the church, leads to the centre of the city. But a road +running off to the left before reaching the top of the hill leads past the +south side to the entrance at the west front of the Cathedral. Seen from +the south the church, though it does not actually stand quite on the +summit, seems to crown with its enormous length the ridge of hill to the +north. Most of those who visit St. Albans for the first time feel a sense +of disappointment. The church has no far-projecting buttresses to give +light and shade, no flying buttresses or pinnacles like those that lend +such a charm to most French and many English churches. All is severely +plain, partly on <a name="page_24" id="page_24"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 24]</span>account of the very early time at which the +greater part of the existing church was built, partly on account of the +material used for its walls. Abbot Paul of Caen, who designed it, trusted +entirely to mass and proportion for the effect he wished to produce. But +we do not see it as he designed it, and possibly built it. When we +remember that he came from Caen, and seems to have used St. Stephen's +Church, at that time recently built by Duke William, as a model, though he +planned his own church on a grander scale, he must have contemplated two +western towers even if he did not erect them—though, as previously +stated, there is a division of opinion on the part of authorities on this +subject. These western towers, if they were built, as well as the central +one, would be crowned by pyramidal caps; and such towers, finely +proportioned, would give the church the height which it so much needs, and +the lack of which we feel so acutely to-day. The raising of the roofs at +the time of the restoration to their original pitch was an undoubted gain, +for without it the building looked lower and longer even than it does +now. The church as we see it has been sadly injured by Lord Grimthorpe's +work at both ends of the transepts, and whatever may be said about the +western front in itself, yet no one can deny that, had the church been +flanked by two towers standing, as at Wells and Rouen, outside the line of +the aisles, even though the front itself were as plain as that of +St. Stephen's at Caen, it would have been far more impressive.</p> + +<p>There is another point in which the church as it exists differs from the +church as it might have been seen soon after Abbot Paul had built it. Then +its walls were covered without as well as within with plaster, within +richly decorated with colour, and without whitewashed. How different it +must have looked with its vast mass seen from a distance rising above the +wooded slopes, white as a solid block of Carara marble gleaming in the +sun, and the lead-covered roofs of nave, transept, choir, and towers +shining with a silvery lustre. Many modern restoring architects strongly +object to plaster, and many a rough wall both external and internal, which +the builder never intended to be seen, has been scraped and pointed under +the idea that plaster is a sham, which it is not, unless indented lines +are drawn on it to make it appear like blocks of ashlar. The rich red of +the Roman brick in St. Albans walls and towers is so delightful, that +perhaps we may think Scott did well in abandoning his idea of replastering +them; yet nothing could have so entirely altered the general<a name="page_25" id="page_25"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 25]</span> +appearance of the building as this scraping away of the plaster. +Besides the general view from Holywell Hill, there are two other distant +points of view which should not be missed: one from Verulam woods, to the +south-west; and one from the fields in which the ruins of Sopwell Nunnery +stand. From this latter point it looks best after sunset on a cloudless +evening, when the tower stands up in majestic grandeur against the saffron +sky, and looking at it one can well imagine how much grander it must have +looked when the tower bore some fitting termination, either the Norman +pyramid or the later octagon, or even possibly the wooden spire of the +Hertfordshire spike order which succeeded it.</p> + +<p><b>The West Front</b>. We will begin our examination of the existing +exterior with the west front, and then proceed in order round the building +along the south side, east end and north side, although in reality iron +railings will prevent us from making a complete circuit, and necessitate +our retracing our steps and making a fresh start at the west of the +railings. Still there is no part of the exterior to which we cannot gain +easy access.</p> + +<p>Lord Grimthorpe's west front is built of stone; the illustration, p. <a href="#illus_12">23</a>, +will enable the reader to form a good idea of its appearance. It took the +place of one of patchwork character: the porches and lower parts were of +thirteenth-century date; the upper part above the central porch contained +Abbot John of Wheathampstead's large Perpendicular window, repaired and +patched at various times; and brick walls closed the west end of the +aisles. Lord Grimthorpe's idea was to design a front in the style +prevalent in the second half of the thirteenth century. The design has +been much criticized, but its general appearance will not be distasteful +to the ordinary visitor, and is as good as is most nineteenth-century +work. In certain respects it is more pleasing than the rival design of +Mr. John Scott, with its mixture of Perpendicular features with those of +earlier styles, its battlemented octagonal turrets, two of which were to +be surmounted by spikes. There are two features of the existing front, one +not shown, the other easily overlooked in the photograph, which should be +noted. First, the arched cill of the central window, and second, the +manner in which the back of the gable over the central door has been +chamfered off so that it should not come up close to the glass and make a +dark triangle against the lower part of the window when seen from the +inside. The <a name="page_26" id="page_26"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 26]</span>doors are all new; the side doors had vanished, +and the central ones were too short for the restored doorways. The western +porches, which Sir Gilbert Scott spoke of as some of the most exquisite +thirteenth-century work in existence, were almost entirely rebuilt by Lord +Grimthorpe. Fortunately some drawings were made for Sir Gilbert Scott, one +of which, by the courtesy of Mr. Murray, we have been able to reproduce, +p. <a href="#illus_6">11</a>.</p> + +<p><b>The South Side</b>. The south clerestory has no less than twenty-three +windows. The ten westernmost, partially restored by Scott, are connected +by an arcading; the next ten, as well as the wall that contains them, are +new—built by Lord Grimthorpe; the parapet, fortunately quite plain, was +rebuilt at the time when the roof was raised; the three easternmost +windows of the clerestory are formed of Roman brick in brick walls much +restored, and are separated by brick buttresses.</p> + +<p>The south aisle roof is partly lead (Scott) and partly, at the eastern +end, of red tiles (Lord Grimthorpe). Lord Grimthorpe cut four windows in +the western bays of the aisle, in which no windows had originally existed, +as domestic buildings abutted against the church here. The three eastern +windows of Abbot William of Trumpington's time were rebuilt in the old +style; the five bays to the west of these were refaced with brick and +flint, as the original clunch stone had perished, owing to exposure to the +weather. The arcading of the north walk of the cloister may still be +seen. It will be noticed that this arcading did not follow the division +into bays of the aisle walls above. The cloister walk acted as a kind of +continuous buttress to the south aisle wall, and owing to its removal this +part of the wall was gradually pushed outward. To strengthen it Lord +Grimthorpe built buttresses, naturally following the division of the upper +part of the walls, but thereby cutting across the arcading of the cloister +walk in a most ugly fashion. By building flying buttresses instead, he +might have preserved the whole of the arcading of the cloister walk +unbroken, but he considered that this plan would have been ugly, and that +the buttresses he did build were constructively better; possibly they may +be, but most of us will be of the opinion that, as far as appearance goes, +the plan adopted was the less satisfactory. The porch over the Abbot's +door in the corner is entirely new. It probably is useful as a support for +the wall, but that is all that can be said in its favour. Lord Grimthorpe +thought that this would be used as <a name="page_27" id="page_27"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 27]</span>an entrance to the church +on this side, but it has not been so used. It is worthy of notice that +this church is destitute of porches, either on the southern or northern +side; probably because they were not needed in a purely monastic church.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="illus_13" id="illus_13"></a> +<a href="./images/image13.jpg"> +<img src="images/image13_th.jpg" alt="THE SOUTH TRANSEPT AS REBUILT." /></a> +<span class="caption">THE SOUTH TRANSEPT AS REBUILT.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>The South Transept</b>. The south arm of the transept was most +ruthlessly dealt with by Lord Grimthorpe; no doubt it was in an unsafe +condition, but his alterations here have been criticized severely, though +not more severely than they deserve. The south front with the five +enormous lancet windows—the lower parts of them lighting the church, the +upper parts of the three central ones the space between the ceiling and +the outer roof—was entirely rebuilt, together with the corner +turrets. The slype or passage between the transept and the chapter-house, +leading from the cloister to the cemetery of the monks, has been +practically destroyed, some of the arcading having been removed and +rebuilt into the interior face of the new south wall, some rebuilt into +the south wall of the slype; the stones of the west doorway of the slype +with modern additions were used up in <a name="page_28" id="page_28"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 28]</span>making a doorway in +the centre of the south transept wall into the slype, and a new doorway +was built at the east end of the slype, thus forming a way into the +transept which seems now chiefly used as a passage for carrying in coke +for the stoves in the transept.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="illus_14" id="illus_14"></a> +<a href="./images/image14.jpg"> +<img src="images/image14_th.jpg" alt="THE LADY CHAPEL, CHOIR AND TRANSEPT FROM THE SOUTH-EAST." /></a> +<span class="caption">THE LADY CHAPEL, CHOIR AND TRANSEPT FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.</span> +</div> + + +<p>The architectural choir, containing the presbytery and the Saint's Chapel, +consists of five bays. The clerestory windows are Decorated ones of three +lights each, the tracery being different in the different windows. They +are set in a brick wall which, in the latter part of the thirteenth +century, had been raised so as to allow of higher windows being set in +it. The tracery is all new, Lord Grimthorpe keeping only the old outlines +and leading lines of the mullions. The ridge of the roof of this part of +the church was raised by Lord Grimthorpe to its original height, the same +as that of the other three roofs that abut against the tower. As the side +walls from which this roof springs are higher than those of the nave and +transept the pitch is lower, and the window in the gable designed by Lord +Grimthorpe is triangular; below this, <a name="page_29" id="page_29"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 29]</span>in the east wall, is a +geometrical window with a small, one-light window on either side of it; +all of these are rebuilt. The south aisle of the presbytery contains two +small, round-headed windows, and further to the east two three-light, and +then one two-light window; beneath two of these are doors. All this part +of the church has been extensively restored, as has also been the +retro-choir or antechapel, as it is sometimes called. Through this, after +the dissolution, a public footway was cut, which was closed in 1870, and a +great deal of reconstruction was needful. This part of the church has two +bays, each bay with a window on each side, and one facing east on each +side of the Lady Chapel.</p> + +<p><b>The Lady Chapel</b> has three bays; the tracery seen on the outside is +new, though it is old inside, for Scott cut the mullions down the middle +so as to retain the statuettes that they bore on the inside. There is a +low vestry built against the south-eastern bay of the Lady Chapel; the +window above this is triangular; the windows of the vestry itself are +shown in the illustration, p. <a href="#illus_14">28</a>, as also is the five-light window in the +east wall of the Lady Chapel. The north side of the Lady Chapel resembles +the southern.</p> + +<p><b>The North Transept</b>. The character of the north presbytery aisle and +the north arm of the transept may be seen by examination of the +illustration, p. <a href="#illus_15">30</a>. It will be observed that the north front of this +contains a large circular window measuring twenty-nine feet across the +glass, filled by a number of circular apertures. This is Lord Grimthorpe's +design, upon which much not undeserved ridicule has been showered. He +informs us that this arm of the transept was in a somewhat better +condition than the southern one, but that all the upper part and the +turrets needed rebuilding. In the rebuilt walls of the transept he used +the original material as far as it would go, supplementing it by some +modern bricks made in imitation of the Roman ones.</p> + +<p>The illustration, p. <a href="#illus_15">30</a>, shows the iron railings which, unless a door in +them be unlocked, prevent further progress westward, and necessitate a +retracing of our steps right round the church till we again reach the +north arm of the transept. In the north front of this may be seen a Norman +door near the north-west corner, through which pilgrims passed who wished +to visit the shrine of the martyr; they entered the precincts by the +Waxhouse gate, buying their candles there, and went down the path which is +now called "the Cloisters," from which the photograph on p. <a href="#illus_15">30</a> +was taken. In the west wall there is an upper row of three round-headed +brick windows once recessed, and a lower one of two twice recessed.</p> + +<p><a name="page_30" id="page_30"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 30]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="illus_15" id="illus_15"></a> +<a href="./images/image15.jpg"> +<img src="images/image15_th.jpg" alt="THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTH-EAST." /></a> +<span class="caption">THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTH-EAST.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="page_31" id="page_31"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 31]</span><b>The North Side</b>. The north clerestory of the nave has eight +round-headed brick windows at the eastern part, followed by lancets +similar to those on the south side. Flat buttresses of brick are built +against the clerestory wall between the round-headed windows. The aisle +windows, most of them rebuilt, are in Decorated style. A length of eighty +feet of the wall towards the western end of the aisle, which had been +built about 1553, when the Chapel of St. Andrew had been destroyed, was +rebuilt and buttresses built against it to counteract the thrust of the +clerestory, which leans outward. In this wall, as on the opposite side of +the church, Lord Grimthorpe inserted windows; and placed a new sloping +roof over the north aisle, covering the triforium arches which had been +glazed as windows in the fifteenth century; this roof is covered with +dark-coloured tiles. We may notice in the north aisle wall a brick door in +the fourth bay from the east; this was cut by Lord Grimthorpe and leads +into the vestry; also a walled-up door in the sixth bay, which led from +the church into the graveyard, and another in the sixth bay, which +formerly led from the north aisle into the chancel of St. Andrew's Church; +this Lord Grimthorpe converted into a cupboard in the thickness of the +wall. The only other thing noteworthy at this part of the exterior is a +small piece of the north aisle wall of St. Andrew's Church near the +footpath.</p> + +<p><b>The Tower</b>. There yet remains the magnificent tower. It is 144 feet +high and is not quite square in plan, measuring 47 feet from east to west, +and two feet less from north to south. The walls are about seven feet +thick; in the thickness, however, passages are cut. It has three stages +above the ridges of the roof. The lower stage has plain windows in each +face, lighting the church below; the next stage, or ringing room, has two +pairs of double windows; and the upper or belfry stage, two double windows +of large size, furnished with louvre boards. The parapet is battlemented, +and of course of later work than the tower itself. The tower is flanked +by pilaster buttresses, which merge into cylindrical turrets in the upper +story. For simple dignity the tower stands unrivalled in this country. It +must have been splendidly built to have stood as it has done so many +centuries <a name="page_32" id="page_32"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 32]</span>without accident. Winchester tower fell not long +after its building, Peterborough tower has been rebuilt in modern days; +but Paul of Caen did not scamp his work as the monks of Peterborough did, +and no evil-living king was buried below the tower, as was the case at +Winchester, thus, according to the beliefs of the time, leading to its +downfall. Tewkesbury tower alone can vie with that of St. Albans, and the +seventeenth-century pinnacles on that tower spoil the general effect, so +that the foremost place among central Norman towers as we see them to-day +may safely be claimed for that at St. Albans. Few more beautiful +architectural objects can be seen than this tower of Roman brick, +especially when the warmth of its colour is accentuated by the ruddy flush +thrown over it by the rays of a setting sun.</p> + +<p>The view from the tower when the air is clear is magnificent, but +unfortunately the privilege of ascending the tower once accorded to +visitors has, on account of unseemly behaviour, been necessarily +withdrawn, and only by a special relaxation of this rule, through the +kindness of the Dean, was the writer enabled to inspect the upper parts of +the church.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 273px;"> +<a name="illus_16" id="illus_16"> +<img src="images/image16.png" alt="THREE OLD PAVEMENT TILES." /></a> +</div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page_34" id="page_34"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 34]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 333px;"> +<a name="illus_17" id="illus_17"></a> +<a href="./images/image17.jpg"> +<img src="images/image17_th.jpg" alt="THE NAVE FROM THE WEST END." /></a> +<span class="caption">THE NAVE FROM THE WEST END.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="page_35" id="page_35"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 35]</span></p> +<h2><a name="chapter_3" id="chapter_3"></a>CHAPTER III.<br /> +<span class="subtitle">THE INTERIOR.</span></h2> + + +<p><b>The floor levels</b>.—The Church of St. Alban is built so that its +axis points considerably to the south of east, a thing that would hardly +have been expected, seeing that the sun rises as far to the north of east +as it ever does on St. Alban's Day, June 22nd. The orientation of the +church may have been due to the fact that no great attention was paid to +it by the builders, or it may have been due to the natural slope of the +ground, which would have made the building of the church difficult had the +east end been swung round further to the north where the ground is higher, +and the west end to the south-west where it is lower; even as the church +was built the slope of the ground has had its effect on the floor +levels. These have been modified from time to time; to describe all the +changes would take too much space, but it may be interesting to state the +differences of level that exist at the present day.</p> + +<p>On entering by the west door a peculiarity will at once be noticed. About +fifteen feet from the inner side of the west wall there is a rise of five +steps which stretch right across the church from north to south. The floor +to the east of these steps slopes imperceptibly upwards for eight bays, +when a rise of three more steps is met with. On this higher level stands +the altar, which is backed up by the rood screen. There is another step to +be ascended to the level of the choir, and another to reach the space +below the tower. Five steps lead from this into the presbytery; there is +another step at the high altar rails, and four more lead up to the +platform on which the high altar will stand. From the space below the +tower one step leads up into the north aisle and two more into the north +arm of the transept. From the level of the south choir aisle and south +transept two steps lead up into the south aisle of the presbytery; from +this aisle there is a rise <a name="page_36" id="page_36"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 36]</span>of four steps into the aisle +south of the Saint's Chapel, and from this into the chapel itself a rise +of four more. So that the floor of this chapel is, with the exception of +the high altar platform, which is one step higher, the highest in the +whole church, or nineteen steps above the floor just inside the west +door. From the aisle of the Saint's Chapel one step leads into the +retro-choir, and two more into the Lady Chapel; hence the floor of the +Lady Chapel is one step lower than that of the Saint's Chapel. If we take +seven inches as the average height of a step, it would appear that the +floor of the Lady Chapel is about ten feet higher than the floor at the +west end of the nave.</p> + +<p>As we stand just inside the west door of the church we are struck by the +length of ritual nave, about 200 feet, the flatness of the roofs, and the +massiveness of the arcading dividing the nave from the aisles; for, though +the four western bays on the north side and five on the south are Early +English in date, there is none of that lightness and grace that we are +accustomed to associate with work of this period, no detached shafts of +Purbeck marble such as we see at Salisbury, no exquisitely carved capitals +such as we meet with at Wells. William of Trumpington seems to have aimed +at making his work harmonize with the Norman work that he left untouched; +and when the rest of the main arcade on the south side was rebuilt in the +next century, it was made to differ but little in general appearance and +dimensions from Abbot William's.</p> + +<p>The vertical proportions of the nave elevation are very fine. If the +whole be divided into nine equal parts, four of these are occupied by the +main arcade, two by the triforium, and three by the clerestory. The view +eastward is often closed by a dark red curtain that hangs behind the +organ, which stands in a gallery behind the rood screen. The screen +divides the congregational nave from the three eastern bays of the +architectural nave, which form the western part of the ritual choir. When +the curtain is drawn aside we get a view of the tower arches and more of +the length of the church is seen. It is to be hoped that no attempt to +move the organ will now be made, as some, no doubt, would suggest, in +order to get a more open vista; for the organ stands just where it can be +used equally well for a service either in the nave or choir, and its sound +can be heard with more effect than if it were stowed away on either side +of the church. The longest view of the church which can be obtained is to +be seen by <a name="page_37" id="page_37"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 37]</span>standing at the extreme west end of the south +aisle, from which, when a draught-excluding curtain that hangs across the +aisle just to the east of the transept is drawn aside, the view extends as +far as the east window of the retro-choir, distant about 440 feet from the +western wall, that is, about one-twelfth of a mile. A better idea of the +enormous length of the whole building is given by saying that it is about +a tenth of a mile long, rather than by giving its length in feet.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> +<a name="illus_18" id="illus_18"></a> +<img src="images/image18.jpg" alt="BASE OF INCOMPLETE PIER." /> +</div> + +<p>At the extreme west of the nave, on the north side, will be seen the base +of what was intended for an Early English pillar, probably John de Cella's +work, for provision is made for the slender detached columns of Purbeck +marble, the intended use of which his successor abandoned. An inscription +beneath the west window records the fact that when pestilence prevailed in +London in the reign of Henry VIII., and again in that of Elizabeth, the +courts of justice were held in the nave. This took place in the years +1543, 1589, and 1593.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 158px;"> +<a name="illus_19" id="illus_19"></a> +<img src="images/image19.png" alt="PLAN OF PIER." /> +</div> + +<p>On the second pier on the north side is an inscription to the memory of +Sir John Mandeville, who was born at St. Albans early in the fourteenth +century, and educated at the monastery school. He studied medicine and set +out in 1322 for his famous travels, professing, in the account which he +published in French in 1357 in Paris, to have visited not only every part +of the south of Europe, but many parts of Asia, even China. It is not +known where he was buried, whether in England or abroad, and the statement +of the Latin inscription on this pillar that he was buried in this church +cannot be regarded as more trustworthy than most of the statements in the +book of travels.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 330px;"> +<a name="illus_20" id="illus_20"></a> +<a href="./images/image20.jpg"> +<img src="images/image20_th.jpg" alt="ARCADE ON NORTH SIDE OF NAVE." /></a> +<span class="caption">ARCADE ON NORTH SIDE OF NAVE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 355px;"> +<a name="illus_21" id="illus_21"></a> +<a href="./images/image21.jpg"> +<img src="images/image21_th.jpg" alt="EASTERN PART OF NORTH SIDE OF NAVE." /></a> +<span class="caption">EASTERN PART OF NORTH SIDE OF NAVE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The first four bays on this side are thirteenth-century work. +The junction of this with the earlier Norman work is of the most +curious character: the Norman pier was cut off level, a short distance +below the impost, and on the top of this three courses of the Early +English pier were laid. Why the Early English pier was not carried down to +the ground, in a way similar to that, in which the easternmost Early +English pier on the south side is carried, we cannot tell. It has been +conjectured that some special sanctity attached to the +statue which stood on the bracket, which may still be seen on the western +face of this pier. It will be noticed how plain is the plan of the Norman +piers (see illustration, p. <a href="#illus_19">37</a>). They have no capital, only a projecting +course of brickwork from <a name="page_40" id="page_40"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 40]</span>which the arch springs. The two +easternmost piers, however, were altered at some time (see illustration, +p. <a href="#illus_21">39</a>), and a rough kind of capital formed by cutting away the pier +below. The Norman piers were first covered with plaster, and then painted +both on their western and southern faces, and when the white-wash with +which they had been covered in post-Reformation days was removed in 1862, +the frescoes were discovered in a more or less perfect condition. All +those on the western faces with one exception, represent the same subject, +the Crucifixion, with a second subject below. No doubt against these piers +altars used to stand, and these frescoes served, as we should say, as +painted reredoses or altarpieces.</p> + +<p>The subjects are as follows, beginning at the west of the Norman arcade:</p> + +<p class="pier">First pier, west face. Christ on the Cross, crowned; the Virgin +on the north side, St. John on the south, holding a book. +Beneath, Virgin (crowned and holding a sceptre) and Child; +on each side an angel censing. Late twelfth or early thirteenth +century.</p> +<p class="pierind">South face. St. Christopher. Fourteenth century.</p> +<p class="pier">Second pier, west face. Christ on the Cross; the Virgin with +clasped hands on south side, St. John on north. Beneath, +Virgin and Child under a canopy. Early thirteenth century.</p> +<p class="pierind">South face. Archbishop Becket. Fourteenth century.</p> +<p class="pier">Third pier, west face. Christ on the Cross; the Virgin on the +south side, St. John on north, resting his head on his hand. +Beneath, under a pointed arch, the Annunciation. This is in outline only. Fourteenth century.</p> +<p class="pierind">South face. A woman in a blue gown holding a rosary +in her left hand, possibly St. Citha (Osyth). Fourteenth +century.</p> +<p class="pier">Fourth pier, west face. Christ on the Cross. Beneath, the Annunciation. +A rude painting of the thirteenth or fourteenth +century.</p> +<p class="pierind">South face. A pilgrim and slight traces of another figure. +The subject is supposed to be either Edward the Confessor +relieving St. John disguised as a pilgrim, or St. John giving +a ring to a pilgrim. Fourteenth century.</p> +<p class="pier">Fifth pier, west face. Christ on the Cross, much draped; the +Virgin and St. John with red background. Beneath, the +Coronation of the Virgin. Fourteenth century.</p> +<p class="pierind">South face. This was once painted, but not enough remains +to allow the subject to be made out.</p> +<p class="pier">Sixth pier, west face. Christ in his Glory; very slight traces +only.</p> +<p><a name="page_41" id="page_41"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 41]</span></p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 335px;"> +<a name="illus_22" id="illus_22"></a> +<a href="./images/image22.jpg"> +<img src="images/image22_th.jpg" alt="NORTH NAVE ARCADE: WESTERN END." /></a> +<span class="caption">NORTH NAVE ARCADE: WESTERN END.</span> +</div> + +<p>Besides these figure subjects painted on the piers, the soffits of the +arches were decorated with colour, some of which still remains.</p> + +<p>Although in the four western bays of the main arcade the Early English +work is very plain, yet the triforium is ornate. The<a name="page_42" id="page_42"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 42]</span> +arcading consists of two pointed arches in each bay, each comprising +two sub-arches; the supporting columns are slender and enriched with +dog-tooth mouldings, with which also the string-course below the triforium +is decorated. The shafts, which probably were intended to support a stone +vault over the nave, should be noticed.</p> + +<p>This illustration also shows the character of the clerestory. The +triforium over the Norman main arcade consists of large, wide-splayed, +round-headed openings, in which the tracery and glazing introduced in the +fifteenth century, when the aisle roof was lowered in pitch so as to +expose the north side of the triforium to the sky, still remains. One of +the triforium arches, namely, the third from the tower, was simply walled +up at this time, and so retains its original form. The clerestory in this +part of the church consists of plain, round-headed openings. Between each +bay the outer southern face of each Norman pier is continued in the form +of a flat pilaster buttress up to the roof.</p> + +<p><a name="page_43" id="page_43"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 43]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 331px;"> +<a name="illus_23" id="illus_23"></a> +<a href="./images/image23.jpg"> +<img src="images/image23_th.jpg" alt="SOUTH NAVE ARCADE, SHOWING THE JUNCTION OF THIRTEENTH AND +FOURTEENTH-CENTURY WORK." /></a> +<span class="caption">SOUTH NAVE ARCADE, SHOWING THE JUNCTION OF THIRTEENTH AND +FOURTEENTH-CENTURY WORK.</span> +</div> + +<p>The rood screen behind the altar, which is sometimes erroneously called +St. Cuthbert's screen, is of fourteenth-century work, but much restored, +and is pierced by two<a name="footref_6" id="footref_6" href="#footnote_6"><span class="fnanchor">6</span></a> doorways, which were used when processions passed +from the nave into the choir. The doors themselves are fourteenth-century +work. Against this screen once stood three altars. The northern one was +dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury and St. Oswyn, King of Northumbria; +the central one to the Holy Apostles, the confessors, and St. Benedict; +and that on the south to St. Mary. These once stood against the western +faces of the Norman piers of the south arcade of the nave, which fell in +the fourteenth century. These piers doubtless corresponded with those we +still see on the north side, and were probably similarly decorated with +frescoes. The south arcade at its eastern end differs entirely from that +on the north. This part of the church was rebuilt after the fall of part +of the Norman arcade. The five Early English bays to the west are divided +from the Decorated ones to the east by a massive pier, generally supposed +to be Norman, but probably rebuilt. The northern face of this runs up as +a pilaster buttress to the roof; the string round it in continuation of +that below the triforium is carved with tooth ornament. West of this we +have tooth ornament, to the east the characteristic ball flower. The +junction of the two styles is shown in the illustration +below, from which it will be noticed that, though there is a general +resemblance in the bays on either side of the dividing pilaster, yet the +details are different. To the east we see shields below the triforium +string, and heads at the termination of the hood<a name="page_44" id="page_44"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 44]</span> +moulding. The head shown in this photograph is possibly that of +Master Geoffrey, master mason to Abbot Hugh of Eversden; the others +passing on to the east are probably those of Edward II., Queen Isabella, +and Abbot Hugh. The shields, also counting from the west, are those of +England, France, Mercia, England, Edward the Confessor, and England. The +hood mouldings of the triforium and clerestory also terminate in heads, +some of them grotesque. The Decorated piers were found by Lord Grimthorpe +in a very unsound condition, not on account of any defect in the +foundation, but on account of the bad mortar in which their rubble cores +had been set. This had become dust, and tended to burst out the ashlar +casing: this shell was indeed doing all the work of supporting the weight +resting on the piers. Lord Grimthorpe shored up the arches, and in large +measure rebuilt the piers of larger stones. He says: "It took no small +trouble and scolding to get these worked as roughly as the old ones, so as +to make the work homogeneous and bewilder antiquaries." This sentence +shows the false principles on which Lord Grimthorpe sometimes worked; +necessary repairs should never be executed with a view to make the work +appear as old as that the place of which it takes.</p> + +<p>The pulpit against the fourth pier on the north side, counting from the +rood screen, is new, decorated with pentagonal diaper work—pentagons +being apparently particularly attractive to Lord Grimthorpe.</p> + +<p><b>The Organ</b>.—The present organ when first built in 1862 was placed +in the north arm of the transept, where the previously used organ had +stood; in 1877 it was moved to the north-east corner of the nave; and was +again moved in 1882, being then placed where it now is. In 1885 it was +enlarged by Lord Grimthorpe, and the key-board was placed at the south +end, so that the organist might command a view of the choristers, whether +they were singing in the nave or in the choir. It is considered a fine and +powerful instrument, and no better position in the church could be found +for it.<a name="page_45" id="page_45"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 45]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 341px;"> +<a name="illus_24" id="illus_24"></a> +<a href="./images/image24.jpg"> +<img src="images/image24_th.jpg" alt="SOUTH AISLE OF NAVE FROM EAST." /></a> +<span class="caption">SOUTH AISLE OF NAVE FROM EAST.</span> +</div> + + +<p><b>The South Aisle</b>.—At the western end of the south wall of this +aisle may be seen the remains of an arch which was intended to lead into +the south-west tower. Above it, high up, is a single-light window. The +next three windows, of two lights each, with Decorated tracery, were +inserted by Lord Grimthorpe in the blank wall; the next window probably +dates from the seventeenth century. The windows in the next +five bays come down on the inside to a much lower level than those to the +west (see illustration, p. <a href="#illus_23">43</a>), but the bottom of the glass was kept high +so as to be above the roof of the north walk of the cloister, which rested +against the wall of these bays. Two of these windows contain modern glass, +one being inserted to the memory of the present Dean's father. There was +once a door in the second bay from the west, which probably was used for +processions, and in the seventh bay was a small door opening into the +cloister, from which a passage in the thickness of the wall<a name="page_46" id="page_46"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 46]</span> +led up by a flight of steps into the Abbot's chapel. This opening has +been converted into a muniment room, and is closed by an iron door leading +from the aisle. The vaulting of the western part is of stone, and was +erected by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1878. The vaulting of the eastern part is +fourteenth-century work erected at the time of the reconstruction of this +part of the church in Decorated style, and is only plaster.</p> + +<p>Against the south face of the large pier, at the junction of the Early +English and Decorated bays, once stood an altar dedicated to our Lady of +the Pillar, with a painting of the Adoration of the Magi above it. Iron +railings inclosing the space between this pier and the next to the west +formed a chapel set apart for the use of the Guild of St Alban. This +guild was founded in the reign of Edward III., but dissolved at the time +of Wat Tyler's rebellion. It was the duty of the brethren of this guild to +follow the shrine containing the relics of St. Alban whenever it was +carried outside the church.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> +<a name="illus_25" id="illus_25"></a> +<img src="images/image25.jpg" alt="HOLY WATER STOUP." /> +</div> + +<p><b>North Aisle</b>.—At the west end of this aisle the beautiful though +much restored holy water stoup should be noticed. A semicircular arch +crosses this aisle, springing from the pier where the Early English and +Norman work join (see illustration, p. <a href="#illus_26">47</a>). The roof is of timber with +only a slight slope, built in 1860. The first four windows from the west +are new, inserted by Lord Grimthorpe in the new wall which he built +here. The other windows have new tracery, but the internal parts remain as +William of Trumpington left them. Some old glass (fifteenth century) is to +be seen in the eighth, ninth, and tenth windows of the aisle. The font, a +modern one, stands at the east end of this aisle. It took the place in +1853 of a marble one, now in the workhouse chapel. There was once a brazen +one brought as spoil from Dunkeld in Scotland, together with the lectern +now in St. Stephen's Church; but this font disappeared during the civil +wars. The continuation of the screen across the north aisle is due to Lord +Grimthorpe. His object <a name="page_47" id="page_47"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 47]</span>was to form a vestry out of that part +of the north aisle that lies along the north side of the choir as far as +the transept. On the south side he merely erected a glazed wooden screen +with a door, through which visitors pass to enter the eastern part of the +church.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 327px;"> +<a name="illus_26" id="illus_26"></a> +<a href="./images/image26.jpg"> +<img src="images/image26_th.jpg" alt="NORTH AISLE OF NAVE." /></a> +<span class="caption">NORTH AISLE OF NAVE.</span> +</div> + +<p>It may be asked, of what use could the vast nave be to a monastery like +that at St. Albans, which does not seem to have contemplated the admission +of the laity to its services? The <a name="page_48" id="page_48"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 48]</span>monks' services were +chaunted in the choir: the people had the parish church of St. Andrew for +their use, in which, however, the priests of the Abbey officiated. But we +must remember that in mediaeval times, on Sundays and on other great +festivals, grand processions formed part of the ritual. The monks, leaving +the choir, perambulated the church. The general order of the procession +was probably as follows: the north arm of the transept, the north aisle of +the presbytery into the Saint's Chapel, thence back into the aisle round +the ambulatory or retro-choir, through the south presbytery aisle into the +south arm of the transept, through the Abbot's door into the cloister, +along the east, south, and west alleys back into the church by the +blocked-up door in the south wall, up the nave, and through the two doors +of the rood screen into the choir.</p> + +<p>On special occasions it was customary for the shrines or feretories +containing the relics of the saints—in this Abbey those of St. Alban and +St. Amphibalus—to be removed from the pedestals on which they stood, and +carried in solemn procession round the church and sometimes even outside +it. For such ceremonials the naves were needed. It was also to allow for +these processions passing round the church that the ambulatory was built +leading round the back of the high altar. The idea of holding +<i>ordinary</i> services for the laity in the nave is an entirely new +idea, and however desirable they may be, yet they have led in modern days +to the introduction into the building in some places of benches or seats +like those of parish churches, and in others to the introduction of +chairs, either of which additions considerably detracts from the +architectural effect of the building. But though in early times the laity +had not in all churches regular access to the building, yet it appears +that they were some times admitted even in those churches that as a rule +excluded them. For we find it recorded that a great number both of men and +women were in the nave of St. Albans for the purpose of hearing Mass and +praying at the time when the Norman piers on the south side of the nave +fell in 1323.</p> + +<p><b>South Choir Aisle</b>—Passing through the door mentioned above, we +enter the aisle which, since it runs alongside of the ritual choir west of +the crossing, is known as the south choir aisle. In this part of the +church the Norman work of Abbot Paul remains. The aisle, however, was +vaulted in stone by Lord Grimthorpe. In the south wall is a recessed tomb, +where two <a name="page_49" id="page_49"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 49]</span>celebrated hermits, Roger and Sigar, were buried, +and which was at one time a popular place of pilgrimage. In the recess now +stands a stone coffin, but who originally occupied it there is nothing to +show. Many of these would be found if the monks' cemetery were excavated, +as after the twentieth Abbot, Warin (1183-1195), had issued his new orders +regulating burial, all the monks were buried in coffins of stone. Roger +the Hermit was a monk of St. Albans, a deacon; but though as monk he +rendered obedience to the Abbot, he did not live within the precincts, for +on one occasion as he was returning from Jerusalem three holy angels met +him, and led him to a spot between St. Albans and Dunstable, called +Markyate, when it was intimated to him that he should live the life of a +hermit. Many were the trials and temptations he endured, many the combats +he fought with the arch enemy of mankind. Once the prince of darkness even +set the hermit's hood on fire, but the holy man was not disturbed, nor did +he cease his prayers. In course of time a holy virgin of Huntingdon, +Christina, came and occupied a cell in the immediate neighbourhood, and +received religious instruction from Roger; here she endured many +privations and mortified her body, bearing patiently the diseases brought +on by her austerities. In time Roger, at the summons of God, quitted the +world and went the way of all flesh, and his body was buried in the arched +recess made for its reception. Christina still lived on. One day the Lord +Jesus Christ appeared to her in the form of an infant, and abode with her +for the space of a whole day; from that time forward no more temptations +assailed her, and she was filled with the spirit of prophecy and wrought +many notable miracles. She took the Abbot Geoffrey under her special care, +advising him in matters of difficulty and reproving him when he did +amiss. She was the first Prioress of the Benedictine Cell of Markyate, +1145.<a name="page_50" id="page_50"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 50]</span></p> + + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 246px;"> +<a name="illus_27" id="illus_27"></a> +<a href="./images/image27.jpg"> +<img src="images/image27_th.jpg" alt="SAXON BALUSTER SHAFTS IN SOUTH TRANSEPT." /></a> +<span class="caption">SAXON BALUSTER SHAFTS IN SOUTH TRANSEPT.</span> +</div> + +<p>Sigar lived about the same time in the wood of Northaw, south of +Hatfield. He also was famous for mortifying his flesh and for his +victories over evil spirits. It was his habit at times to come to matins +at St. Albans, and then to return to his hermit's cell and pass the time +in prayer and self-scourgings. Strange to say, though the devils could +not disturb the holy man at his prayers, the nightingales of Northaw woods +did distract him, and he therefore prayed that God would keep these little +birds away, lest he should take too much delight in their +sweet songs; whereupon no more nightingales sang in those woods, and it is +recorded that long after his time no nightingale dared venture within a +mile of the spot where the hermit had dwelt. All which things are written +in the chronicles of the Abbey, of which the reader may believe as little +or as much as he will. Sigar was buried by the side of Roger. The arch +above their grave may be seen in the illustration (p. <a href="#illus_45">80</a>), which also +shows the Abbot's door which led into the cloister. It was built by Abbot +de la Mare in the latter half of the fourteenth century. <a name="page_51" id="page_51"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 51]</span></p> + + +<p><b>The Transept</b>.—From this aisle we pass into the transept. Its +southern arm, notwithstanding the havoc wrought by Lord Grimthorpe, still +retains many points of interest. On its eastern side the triforium, +consisting of three bays, contains some baluster shafts of Saxon date; it +is supposed that they were taken from the church which Abbot Paul +demolished. It will be seen from the illustration that they are marked +with rings, and close examination has shown that they were turned in a +lathe, but not being quite long enough for their new position, extra bases +and capitals were added; these were cut with an axe, as were also the +cylindrical shafts of Norman date, which are set alternately +with the older ones. From the excellent state of preservation of the Saxon +balusters, it is evident that they did not come from the exterior of the +early church. Similar shafts may be noticed in the east wall of the +northern arm of the transept There are two arches in the eastern wall +which once led into chapels, the southern dedicated to St. Stephen, the +northern first to our Lady, afterwards to St. John; they were pulled down +in the fourteenth century to make room for a <a name="page_52" id="page_52"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 52]</span>treasury. One +of the arches is now used as a cupboard, the other as a kind of museum of +fragments of carved stonework. The south wall is entirely new. Lord +Grimthorpe pulled down the front containing a Perpendicular window, +originally fifteenth-century work, but rebuilt in 1832. Thus inserted his +five tall lancets, beneath which built into the wall are ten of the arches +with restored shafts of the arcade taken from the slype at the time of its +destruction; the other six are to be seen in the south wall of the rebuilt +slype, if slype it can now be called. Under this arcading in the transept +is a doorway, built by Lord Grimthorpe, partly from fragments of the west +doorway of the old slype, and partly from his own design. The rebuilt +slype is no longer a passage as it formerly was, leading between the south +end of the transept and the north wall of the rectangular chapter-house, +but is closed at the west end by a wall with a window in it, and at the +east end has a door. Fortunately, a photograph taken before the +destruction was available for reproduction, so that the reader may see the +original condition of the south wall of the slype (see p. <a href="#illus_9">20</a>). The west +wall of the transept has entirely different shafts in its triforium from +those on the opposite side. A little double-light window or grating may +be seen in the west wall near the aisle; it once opened into a small +watching chamber, which was walled up at the time of the restoration for +the sake of giving additional strength to the walls at the angle. It will +be noticed that the pilasters projecting from the west wall do not come +down to the ground. Lord Grimthorpe considers that these were not cut +away, as might be imagined but were originally built as we see them to +give strength to the walls where they were thinner on account of the +passages in their thickness. There is a recess in this wall which was once +a doorway into the cloister; it now contains some old oak chests, in which +are placed every week the loaves provided for the poor by Robert Skelton's +charity, 1628. The wooden ceiling is due to Lord Grimthorpe.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 329px;"> +<a name="illus_28" id="illus_28"></a> +<a href="./images/image28.jpg"> +<img src="images/image28_th.jpg" alt="DOORWAY IN SOUTH TRANSEPT." /></a> +<span class="caption">DOORWAY IN SOUTH TRANSEPT.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>The North Arm of the Transept</b>.—The upper part of the north wall, +with its high circular window, was rebuilt by Lord Grimthorpe. Above the +triforium on the east and west walls are three Norman windows and below +these on the west side again two other Norman ones. The Norman doorway by +which pilgrims to St. Albans shrine entered the church, and two Norman +windows, with glass representing the four Latin doctors, inserted to the +memory of Archdeacon Grant, who died <a name="page_53" id="page_53"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 53]</span>1883, may be seen below +the wheel window; in the east wall are two pairs of lancets due to Lord +Grimthorpe. Here, as in the corresponding wall on the south side, there +are two arches which once led into two chapels. After their destruction, +altars dedicated to the Holy Trinity (north) and to St. Osyth (south) were +placed in the recesses. Here may be seen two modern monuments: one the +cenotaph of Dr. Claughton, first Bishop of St. Albans, 1877-1892;<a name="footref_7" id="footref_7" href="#footnote_7"><span class="fnanchor">7</span></a> this +stands at equal distances from the east and west walls: the other, an +altar tomb, was erected in memory of Alfred Blomfield, Suffragan Bishop of +Colchester, who died 1884. The ceiling is by Lord Grimthorpe. A panel from +the old ceiling, representing the death of St. Alban, may be seen in the +south aisle of the presbytery.</p> + +<p>If we stand under the central tower we get, looking westward, a view into +the choir with its modern fittings, the stalls given by various donors, +and the Bishop's throne which was brought hither from Rochester. From the +way in which the piers are cut away on their faces looking into the choir, +it is concluded that the backs of the original stalls reached to a +considerable height. The piers, like those in the nave, were at one time +painted, and on the west face of the second pier from the east of the +north arcade are remains of a painting of the Holy Trinity. In 1875 +Mr. Chappie discovered wall-paintings between the clerestory windows, +three on the north and one on the south; the soffits of the arches are +also coloured.</p> + +<p>The painted ceiling of the choir was accidentally discovered during the +restoration. A workman was cleaning one of the panels, which was coarsely +painted, and happened to rub off the surface paint, disclosing other work +below. The upper paint was then cleared away from all the other +panels. Two, in the centre, bore a Scripture subject. The others bore, +alternately, coats of arms and the monogram IHS, with wreaths of +vine-leaves. The arms belong almost entirely to those who were by blood or +marriage connected with Edward III.</p> + +<p>The ceiling of the lantern, 102 feet from the pavement, is painted with +the red and white roses of the houses of Lancaster and York, together with +various coats of arms. The lofty arches beneath the tower (55 feet high) +are of great grandeur, as will be seen from the illustration The four +inside faces of the lantern <a name="page_54" id="page_54"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 54]</span>are alike, each containing +windows above the three arches of the arcade, each of which comprises two +subarches springing from a quadrilateral shaft.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 346px;"> +<a name="illus_29" id="illus_29"></a> +<a href="./images/image29.jpg"> +<img src="images/image29_th.jpg" alt="THE CROSSING, LOOKING WESTWARD" /></a> +<span class="caption">THE CROSSING, LOOKING WESTWARD</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="page_55" id="page_55"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 55]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 287px;"> +<a name="illus_30" id="illus_30"></a> +<a href="./images/image30.jpg"> +<img src="images/image30_th.jpg" alt="THE CHOIR." /></a> +<span class="caption">THE CHOIR.</span> +</div> + +<p>To the east is the <b>presbytery</b>, closed by the Wallingford or +<a name="page_56" id="page_56"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 56]</span><a name="page_57" id="page_57"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 57]</span>high +altar <b>screen</b>. This screen was sorely dilapidated, and all its +niches were stripped of their statues, no record remaining of whose +statues originally filled them. Mr. H. Hucks Gibbs (now Lord Aldenham) +undertook to restore this screen, making good the canopies and filling +them again with statues. The screen is of clunch, a hard stone from the +lower chalk formation quarried at Tottenhoe near Dunstable, a stone much +used for interior work in the church, though it will not stand exposure to +weather in exterior walls. The new statues are by Mr. Harry Hems of +Exeter; the larger ones of magnesian limestone from Mansfield Woodhouse, +Nottinghamshire, and the smaller of alabaster. They are excellent +examples of modern carved work. The general idea was to represent "the +Passion of our Lord and of the testimony of the faith in that Passion +given in the lives and deeds of men"<a name="footref_8" id="footref_8" href="#footnote_8"><span class="fnanchor">8</span></a> of English race. A careful +comparison of the screen (see illustration, p. <a href="#illus_31">58</a>), with the key given +(p. <a href="#illus_32">59</a>) will enable the reader to identify the persons represented.</p> + +<p>The coloured altarpiece in high relief is by Mr. Alfred Gilbert, R.A., and +is a work quite unique in character. It represents the resurrection. In +the centre is the upper half of our Lord's figure; on one side is an angel +holding a cross, emblem of faith; on the other, one holding a crystal +globe, emblem of dominion; the wings of these angels are formed of +mother-of-pearl, and before them are grills of brass scrollwork, intended +to give an air of mystery to their appearance. The work does not appear to +be fully finished, the grills being only roughly attached to the wall. The +space before the altar is paved with slabs of marble.<a name="page_58" id="page_58"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 58]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 347px;"> +<a name="illus_31" id="illus_31"></a> +<a href="./images/image31.jpg"> +<img src="images/image31_th.jpg" alt="THE WALLINGFORD SCREEN." /></a> +<span class="caption">THE WALLINGFORD SCREEN.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="page_59" id="page_59"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 59]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="illus_32" id="illus_32"></a> +<a href="./images/image32.png"> +<img src="images/image32_th.png" alt="KEY TO THE SCULPTURE ON THE WALLINGFORD SCREEN" /></a> +<span class="caption">KEY TO THE SCULPTURE ON THE WALLINGFORD SCREEN</span> +</div> + + +<p>In an arch south of the altar is Abbot John of Wheathampstead's chantry, +containing a splendid brass of Flemish workmanship, which once covered the +grave before the high altar in which Abbot Thomas de la Mare was +buried. He is represented in full vestments carrying a pastoral staff and +wearing a mitre, according to the Pope's grant, although he was not a +bishop but only a mitred abbot, and therefore could not perform the rite +of ordination, which could be administered only by the Bishop of Lincoln; +the Abbey Church, though independent of him in all other matters, was for +this purpose in his diocese. The rebus of Abbot John was three ears of +wheat, and his motto "Valles habundabunt," an allusion to +the fertile lowland of Wheathampstead, whence he came. This rebus may be +found in various places where the work was due to him. Opposite to this +chantry is the far more magnificent one of Abbot Thomas +<a name="page_60" id="page_60"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 60]</span> +Ramryge. His rebus is a ram wearing a collar with the +letters R.Y.G.E. inscribed on it. This chantry was at one time, after the +dissolution, appropriated as a burial-place for the Ffaringdons, a +Lancashire family, but the original slab with Abbot Thomas's figure and +inscription has been restored to its place. Within the +altar rails are four memorial stone tablets covering the graves of four +fourteenth-century Abbots—Thomas de la Mare, Hugh of Eversden, Richard of +Wallingford, and Michael of Mentmore. Four other Abbots are known to have +been buried beneath the presbytery floor outside the altar rails—John de +Marinis, John of Berkhampstead, Roger of Norton, and John Stokes—as well +as other monks and laymen. It will be noticed that the presbytery is +divided from the aisles by solid walls, pierced only for the two chantries +above described, and for two doorways, one on each side, further +west. Over each of these doorways is a tabernacle; that on the south was +put together of fragments by Sir Gilbert Scott, and that on the north made +to match it. The clerestory windows are Lord Grimthorpe's; the painted +wooden vaulting which extends beyond the screen and over the Saints' +Chapel is John of Wheathampstead's. It will be noticed that this springs +from vaulting shafts, and it is by some considered that a stone roof was +contemplated. The triforium here is an arcade without any passage. The +pulpit, which stands close by the north pier of the eastern tower arch, +was designed by Mr. J.O. Scott and given by the Freemasons of England, who +regard St. Alban as their patron saint.<a name="page_61" id="page_61"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 61]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 311px;"> +<a name="illus_33" id="illus_33"></a> +<a href="./images/image33.jpg"> +<img src="images/image33_th.jpg" alt="RAMRYGE CHANTRY." /></a> +<span class="caption">RAMRYGE CHANTRY.</span> +</div> + + +<p>We will now turn to the south and pass eastward under the curtain which +hangs beneath the western arch of the south aisle of the presbytery. On +the south side we see, as we enter, a fourteenth-century holy water stoup, +and further on, under a window, a wide round-headed archway which formerly +led into a chapel now demolished, which once was dedicated to our Lady, +before the larger chapel at the east end was built. In the next bay is a +blocked Norman window from which the plaster has been scraped to show the +character of the wall, built of Roman tiles; the quadripartite vaulting is +of plaster with lines painted red to make it appear like stone. Opposite +is a large oak money-chest, and above it on the wall is the figure of a +mendicant (see p. <a href="#illus_35">63</a>), carved in wood by a verger in the eighteenth +century, hat in hand, as if asking the passer-by to put a coin in the +poor-box below. In the south wall is a doorway which led into the +treasury. The next bay is largely rebuilt; on the south side is a door +and opposite is the back of John of Wheathampstead's chantry. From this we +pass into the south aisle of the Saint's Chapel.<a name="page_62" id="page_62"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 62]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 316px;"> +<a name="illus_34" id="illus_34"></a> +<a href="./images/image34.jpg"> +<img src="images/image34_th.jpg" alt="SOUTH AISLE OF PRESBYTERY." /></a> +<span class="caption">SOUTH AISLE OF PRESBYTERY.</span> +</div> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 219px;"> +<a name="illus_35" id="illus_35"></a> +<img src="images/image35.jpg" alt="WOODEN FIGURE OF A MENDICANT." /> +</div> + +<p>First we see the doorway on the north side, under which are steps leading +up into the chapel, and further on we come to a trellis-work +of iron through which we can look across the space once occupied by the +monument of "Good" Duke Humphrey of Gloucester into the Saint's +Chapel. This grill is older (about 1275) than the rich canopy over the +duke's grave, and was doubtless erected to allow of a view being obtained +from <a name="page_63" id="page_63"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 63]</span>this aisle of the martyr's shrine. There are a number +of figures of kings in the canopied niches over the grave, but it is not +possible to identify them. Opposite are some remains of a stone screen of +the Perpendicular period; it probably divided the aisle from some external +chapel. After the chapel perished the wall was built up; but during the +restoration this arcading was discovered. Through an oak screen, Lord +Grimthorpe's work, we pass into the <b>retro-choir.</b> This, as we have +before seen, was sadly mutilated after the Reformation, when the public +path was made through this part of the building and the Lady Chapel turned +into a grammar school; hence we shall find more modern work here than in +any other equal area of the church. The part east of the passage was for +long used as a covered playground for the boys and suffered much in +consequence. It was originally built at the end of the thirteenth +century. The arcading round these walls is new, much of it carved under +the direction of Lord Grimthorpe by Mr. John Baker. The carving is of a +naturalistic character, the vegetable forms being copied direct from the +plants and trees of the neighbourhood. The oak ceiling of the south side +and the flat ceiling of the centre are by Lord Grimthorpe; that on the +north side by Sir Gilbert Scott. The shrine of St. Amphibalus once stood +in the centre, but the reconstructed shrine, or rather pedestal of the +shrine, was removed to the north aisle of the Saint's Chapel by Lord +Grimthorpe, so as to be out of the way; for his idea was to fit this part +of the church for use as a chapter-house, should a chapter ever be +created, and as a consistory court. He built the low wall between it and +the Saint's Chapel with seats under the arcading to be occupied by members +of the chapter, and paved the floor with polished marble (see +illustration, p. <a href="#illus_36">64</a>).</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 394px;"> +<a name="illus_36" id="illus_36"></a> +<a href="./images/image36.jpg"> +<img src="images/image36_th.jpg" alt="RETRO-CHOIR" /></a> +<span class="caption">RETRO-CHOIR</span> +</div> + + +<p>There were once several altars in this retro-choir; under the<a name="page_64" id="page_64"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 64]</span> +east window on the south side one to our Lady of the Four Tapers, +with an aumbry and triple-arched piscina in the south wall. This has been +restored; the upper part is entirely new. On the north side in a +corresponding position was an altar dedicated to St. Michael; while altars +dedicated to St. Edmund, King and Martyr, and to St. Peter stood to the +west of the two pillars, respectively on the north and south sides; and +another altar to St. Amphibalus stood to the west of his shrine in the +<a name="page_65" id="page_65"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 65]</span>centre. It may here be noted that the east +wall of the original Norman apse extended as far as the centre of the +retro-choir.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="illus_37" id="illus_37"></a> +<a href="./images/image37.jpg"> +<img src="images/image37_th.jpg" alt="BASE OF THE SHRINE OF ST. AMPHIBALUS." /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">BASE OF THE SHRINE OF ST. AMPHIBALUS.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="page_66" id="page_66"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 66]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 371px;"> +<a name="illus_38" id="illus_38"></a> +<a href="./images/image38.jpg"> +<img src="images/image38_th.jpg" alt="BACK OF THE WATCHING LOFT." /></a> +<span class="caption">BACK OF THE WATCHING LOFT.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="page_67" id="page_67"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 67]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 303px;"> +<a name="illus_39" id="illus_39"></a> +<a href="./images/image39.jpg"> +<img src="images/image39_th.jpg" alt="RAMRYGE'S CHANTRY FROM THE AISLE." /></a> +<span class="caption">RAMRYGE'S CHANTRY FROM THE AISLE.</span> +</div> + + +<p>The north aisle of the Saint's Chapel is divided from the retro-choir by a +glazed oak screen with a door in it, frequently kept locked. Just to the +west of this is the pedestal of the shrine of +St. Amphibalus. This, like that of St. Alban's shrine, was broken up +into many fragments after the dissolution of the monastery. The fragments +were built into sundry walls, but many of them were discovered when the +walls blocking up the arches at <a name="page_68" id="page_68"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 68]</span>the east end of the Saint's +Chapel were removed; they were put together as far as possible, but as the +east and north sides are missing, the position the pedestal now occupies +is not an unfitting one, as these sides are hidden (see illustration, +p. <a href="#illus_37">65</a>). The letters R.W. may be seen on it. These are the initials of +Ralph Whitechurch, sacrist, at whose cost the pedestal was built in the +second half of the fourteenth century. Opposite this we see the back of +the watching loft (see illustration, p. <a href="#illus_38">66</a>) erected for the monk who kept +watch and ward over the martyr's shrine; further to the west is a doorway +into the Saint's Chapel, and still further west the back of Ramryge's +chantry. Beyond this is the north entrance into the presbytery, over which +is a painting of the Lord's Supper, generally attributed to Sir James +Thornhill and given to the church about two centuries ago; at one time it +hung over the high altar. There is also a painting of Offa, probably +fifteenth-century work, to be seen in this aisle. The two doors removed by +Lord Grimthorpe from the central doorway of the west front have been set +up against the west end of the walls of this aisle (see illustration).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 203px;"> +<a name="illus_40" id="illus_40"></a> +<a href="./images/image40.jpg"> +<img src="images/image40_th.jpg" alt="ONE OF THE OLD WESTERN DOORS." /></a> +<span class="caption">ONE OF THE OLD WESTERN DOORS.</span> +</div> + + +<p><b>The Lady Chapel</b>.—This chapel in its original condition must have +been exceedingly beautiful; and although we have had occasion to find much +fault with the work of restoration <a name="page_69" id="page_69"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 69]</span>or rather destruction and +needless alteration, in other parts of the church, yet here little but +praise can be bestowed. Some may regret that the old wooden vaulting was +not retained and repaired, but the new stone vaulting is beautiful in +itself and more durable. A better material than cast iron might, however, +have been found for the altar rails. The new carving is excellent in +quality and right in principle. It has been done, not as most modern work +is, by imitating the carved work of some particular period of architecture +as set out for the carver in the architect's drawings, but by returning to +the old system of <a name="page_70" id="page_70"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 70]</span>going to nature and carving from life +models, so to say. It has been done in the same spirit as actuated the +early work of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood. It is said that the carvers +had sprays of leaves and clusters of fruit and flowers before them as they +carved, and imitated them as closely as the material on which they worked +allowed them to do. Work done in this manner, provided the carver has +skill and taste, is sure to show character and life, and to differ +entirely from the mechanical conventionalisms we generally see in modern +stone-carving.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 412px;"> +<a name="illus_41" id="illus_41"></a> +<a href="./images/image41.jpg"> +<img src="images/image41_th.jpg" alt="LADY CHAPEL." /></a> +<span class="caption">LADY CHAPEL.</span> +</div> + + +<p>The chapel dates from the latter part of the thirteenth and early part of +the fourteenth centuries. The work was probably begun in the time of Abbot +Roger Norton, whose body was buried before the high altar in the +presbytery, but whose heart was laid in a small box, which was discovered +during the restoration, before the altar of St. Mary of the Four +Tapers. Possibly his successor, John of Berkhampstead, carried on the +work; but at Abbot Hugh's accession in 1308 the walls of the Lady Chapel +had only been carried up as high as the string-course below the +windows. The work of building was not continuous, as change in style +shows; moreover we read in the Chronicles that Abbot Hugh of Eversden +"brought to a praiseworthy completion the Chapel of the Virgin in the +eastern part of the church which had been begun many-years before." He is +also recorded to have roofed the space to the west, that is, the +retro-choir. It seems, then, that at the time when the alterations in the +eastern part of the Norman church were begun, not only was the presbytery +with its aisles laid out, but also the retro-choir as a group of chapels, +and possibly the Lady Chapel as well; and that when Hugh was chosen Abbot +he found the presbytery and Saint's Chapel finished, the walls of the +retro-choir raised to their full height, and those of the Lady Chapel +partly built. These he proceeded to finish. The side windows of the Lady +Chapel are beautiful examples of the fully developed Decorated style; the +jambs and mullions are ornamented with statuettes which, strange to say, +escaped destruction. "The eastern window of five lights is a singular +combination of tracery with tabernacle work, while the easternmost bay on +the south side, which is partly obscured by the vestry, has an exquisite +window above, consisting of a richly traceried arch placed within a +curvilinear triangle, beneath which is a splendid range of niches, and, +beneath <a name="page_71" id="page_71"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 71]</span>them again, a gorgeous range of sedilia and +piscinae."<a name="footref_9" id="footref_9" href="#footnote_9"><span class="fnanchor">9</span></a> The original wall arcading had cinque-foiled heads on the +south side, and trefoiled heads on the north; but all these had been cut +away before the restoration began, probably at the time when the walls +were covered with panels to make the chapel more suitable for a +schoolroom.</p> + +<p>In this chapel, after its dedication, mass was sung daily, and an organ +was provided to accompany the musical part of the service. The western end +of the Lady Chapel was separated from the retro-choir by a screen, which +of course perished after the dissolution. No modern screen has been put in +its place, though one would be a great improvement. Projecting from the +easternmost bay of the south side stands the Chapel of the +Transfiguration, which was dedicated in 1430. This, rebuilt, is now used +as a vestry. Beneath the floor of the Lady Chapel was buried the hated +Edmund Beaufort, Duke of Somerset, grand-son of John of Gaunt; Henry +Percy, Earl of Northumberland, son of the famous Hotspur; and Thomas, Lord +Clifford: whose bodies were found lying dead in the streets of St. Albans, +after the first battle in 1455, in which they fell fighting for the Red +Rose party. They were buried by Abbot John of Wheathampstead, who at this +time was an adherent of that party, though he became a Yorkist after Queen +Margaret had allowed her troops to plunder the Abbey when, in the second +battle of St. Albans, she was victorious over the Earl of Warwick.</p> + +<p>A considerable amount of work was necessary to refit this chapel for +use. The restoration was begun by Scott and finished by Lord Grimthorpe.</p> + +<p>Scott cut the mullions of the windows down the middle, retaining all the +part inside the glass so as to preserve the statues, but renewing the part +outside for the sake of strength. All the painted glass is modern, the +gift of various donors. Lord Grimthorpe, in place of the wooden vaulting +which was, he says, in a very unsound state, threw a stone vault over the +chapel, raising its ridge three feet higher than that of the previous +roof. All the arches of the arcade had been cut away, with the exception +of two at the east end, one on each side of the altar, differing from each +other as already mentioned. Lord Grimthorpe took as a model the one with +the cinque-foiled head, <a name="page_72" id="page_72"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 72]</span>considering that the better of the +two, and constructed the existing arcading all round the chapel. He +rebuilt the Chapel of the Transfiguration, making its walls lower than +before, so as not to obstruct the view of the window over it. The carving, +chiefly the work of Mr. Baker, as already mentioned, represents various +vegetable forms in a naturalistic manner, the plants chosen being for the +most part such as grow in the neighbourhood—convolvulus, primrose, +buttercup, poppy, gooseberry, blackberry, rose, maple, ivy, sycamore, +pansy, polypody, and others.</p> + +<p>Lord Grimthorpe also repaved the floor with marble slabs of three +colours—black, red, and white. During the time the chapel was used for a +schoolroom the floor had been a common wooden one. Practically, then, it +will be seen that this Lady Chapel, with the exception of its walls and +the windows with the statuettes on them, is a modern church, surpassing, +indeed, most nineteenth-century work in beauty, and much the same may be +said of the retro-choir or chapter-house.</p> + +<p><b>The Saint's Chapel</b>.—We must now return westward, through the south +aisle of the ambulatory, past the back of Duke Humphrey's grave, and enter +the Chapel of the Martyr by the door which opens into it from the +aisle. The centre of the chapel is occupied by the reconstructed pedestal +of the martyr's shrine. The ugly wooden railing that surrounds it is a +great blot on the appearance of the chapel; no doubt it is necessary that +the pedestal should be protected by some kind of barrier, but a light and +elegant railing of brass would answer every purpose without marring the +general effect, as the present cumbersome erection shown in all the +accompanying illustrations of objects in this chapel does. It is to be +hoped that either out of the general fabric fund, or by the generosity of +some individual donor, this one blot on this fine chapel may be removed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="illus_42" id="illus_42"></a> +<a href="./images/image42.jpg"> +<img src="images/image42_th.jpg" alt="PEDESTAL OF ST. ALBAN'S SHRINE." /></a> +<span class="caption">PEDESTAL OF ST. ALBAN'S SHRINE.</span> +</div> + + +<p>The bones of St. Alban were of course counted as the chief treasure of the +Abbey, in some respects the most valuable relics in the kingdom, since +they were the bones of the first Christian martyr in the island. It was +meet and fitting, then, that the most splendid resting-place should be +chosen for them. The bones themselves were inclosed in an outer and an +inner case; the inner was the work of the sixteenth Abbot, Geoffrey of +Gorham (1119-1149), and the outer of the nineteenth Abbot, Symeon +(1167-1183). These coffers were of special metal encrusted with<a name="page_73" id="page_73"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 73]</span> +rich gems. It is recorded that the reliquary was so heavy that it +required four men to carry it, which they probably did by two poles, each +passing through two rings on either side of the coffer. It is said to +have been placed in a lofty position by Abbot Symeon; but the pedestal of +which we see the reconstruction today was erected during the early part of +the fourteenth century, in the time of the twenty-sixth Abbot, John de +Marinis (1302-1308). This was built of Purbeck marble and consists of a +basement 2 ft. 6 in. high, 8 ft. 6 in. long, and 3 ft. 2 in. wide, above +which were four canopied niches at each side and one at each end; these +were richly painted and probably contained other relics; in the spandrels +were carved figures, at the corners angels censing. At the west end was a +representation of St. Alban's martyrdom; on the south side in the centre +was, and still is, a figure of King Offa holding the model of a church; in +the next spandrel to the east the figure of another king; on the east side +a representation of the scourging of St. Alban, and on the north other +figures, of which the only one remaining is that of a bishop or mitred +abbot. In the pediments or gables were carvings of foliage, and round the +top of the pedestal ran a richly <a name="page_74" id="page_74"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 74]</span>carved cornice; round the +base stood fourteen detached shafts, on which perhaps the movable canopy +rested, and outside three other shafts of twisted pattern on each side, +which carried six huge candles, probably kept burning day and night, +certainly during the night, to light the chamber holding the shrine. On +this lofty pedestal, 8 ft. 3 in. high, the glorious shrine rested. It was +rendered still more ornate than it was in Abbot Symeon's time by the +addition of a silver-gilt turret, on the lower part of which was a +representation of the Resurrection with two angels and four knights +(suggested by the guard of Roman soldiers) keeping the tomb. A silver-gilt +eagle of cunning craftsmanship stood on the shrine. All these additions +were given by Abbot Thomas de la Mare (1349-1396). A certain monk also +gave two representations of the sun in solid gold, surrounded by rays of +silver tipped with precious stones. Over all was a canopy which, like many +modern font-covers, was probably suspended by a rope running over a pulley +in the roof, by which it might be raised. There is a mark in the roof +remaining, possibly caused by the fastening of the pulley. An altar, +dedicated to St. Alban, stood at the west end of the pedestal.</p> + +<p>There are two quarry-shaped openings to be noticed on the north side of +the pedestal near the floor level, one of which extends right through to +the south side. Into these diseased arms or legs might be thrust for cure +by virtue of the saint. At the time of the dissolution the shrine +disappeared, and the marble pedestal was broken up into small +fragments. In 1847 the rector, Dr. Nicholson, found a few of these, when +opening the two northern of the blocked-up arches to the east of the +chapel; and in 1872, when the wall that closed the end of the south aisle +was removed and excavations were made to find the level of the aisle +floor, many more fragments, numbering in all about two thousand, were +found. These were carefully put together by Mr. Chapple, clerk of the +works, some plain stone being used to take the part of missing portions, +with the result that we see to-day, from which we can form some idea of +the appearance of the shrine in the days of its glory, even to the colour +decoration, for some of the fragments bear the original paint and gold.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 404px;"> +<a name="illus_43" id="illus_43"></a> +<a href="./images/image43.jpg"> +<img src="images/image43_th.jpg" alt="WATCHING LOFT." /></a> +<span class="caption">WATCHING LOFT.</span> +</div> + + +<p>Such a precious thing as this jewelled shrine and the still more precious +bones within it could not be left for a moment unguarded and unwatched, +for stealing relics, when a favourable <a name="page_75" id="page_75"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 75]</span>opportunity arose, was +a temptation too great to be resisted by any monks, however holy. So on +the south side of the shrine was erected a watching loft; the one that +remains was constructed probably during the reign of Richard II., as his +badge appears on it, but, no doubt, from the first there was some such +place provided for the purpose of keeping guard. A similar loft may be +seen in the cathedral church of St. Frideswide at Oxford, and a watching +loft of a different construction in the south triforium at Malmesbury. The +chamber had two stories; the lower <a name="page_76" id="page_76"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 76]</span>contained cupboards, in +which vestments and relics were kept, these are now filled with various +antiquarian curiosities, Roman pottery from Verulamium, architectural +fragments, etc. An oaken staircase leads up into the chamber where the +"custos feretri" sat watching the shrine day and night, guard of course +being changed at intervals. It must have been trying work watching there +during the night-time in frosty weather, but monks were accustomed to bear +cold. The watching chamber (see illustrations, pp. <a href="#illus_38">66</a>, <a href="#illus_43">75</a>) was built of +oak and was richly carved. On the south side of the cornice are angels, +the hart—badge of Richard II., the martyrdom of St. Alban, Time the +reaper, and the seasons; on the north the months of the year are +represented.</p> + +<p>The west side of this chapel is closed by the back of Wallingford's +screen, on which may be seen five statues representing St. Peter, +St. John, St. Mary, St. Stephen, and St. Michael. The eastern side is +closed by a low wall, erected by Lord Grimthorpe in place of the wall by +which these arches were completely blocked up after the dissolution. It +was here that some of the fragments of the pedestal were found. Into his +new wall Lord Grimthorpe has built some old fragments of carved work found +in different places of the church.</p> + +<p>The south side of this chapel is formed of the monument over the grave of +Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, surnamed "good" by an admiring people, +though some modern historians hold that he had little real claim to this +title. He was the son of Henry IV., and therefore brother of Henry V., and +was uncle of Henry VI. and guardian to the young King in the early part of +his reign. He who likes may read in any history of the part he played in +the affairs of the country: how he incurred the hatred of the unscrupulous +and vindictive Queen of Henry VI., Margaret of Anjou, "she-wolf of +France"; how he was murdered by Suffolk, with, it is said, the connivance +of the Queen and Cardinal Beaufort. It was at one time supposed that he +was buried in London, but there is little doubt that he found a +resting-place in a grave prepared for him in St. Alban's Abbey, on March +4, 1447. This would be during the time that John Stokes was Abbot, between +the two abbacies of John of Wheathampstead. The body was discovered in +its leaden coffin during the reign of Queen Anne, when another grave was +being dug. The coffin was opened, and the duke's body was discovered to be +in a good state of preservation in the coffin, which is described as being +<a name="page_77" id="page_77"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 77]</span>"full of pickle." It is said that at one time the vergers +would, for a due consideration, allow visitors to carry away the smaller +bones when, owing to the body having been removed from the preserving +fluid, nothing but a skeleton was left.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 356px;"> +<a name="illus_44" id="illus_44"></a> +<a href="./images/image44.jpg"> +<img src="images/image44_th.jpg" alt="MONUMENT OF HUMPHREY, DUKE OF GLOUCESTER." /></a> +<span class="caption">MONUMENT OF HUMPHREY, DUKE OF GLOUCESTER.</span> +</div> + + +<p>The monument is a handsome one. It was probably erected <a name="page_78" id="page_78"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 78]</span>by +Wheathampstead, who had been on terms of intimacy with the duke, when he +for the second time became Abbot. The canopy over the grave is richly +carved; the antelopes we see on it were the badge of the duke. His epitaph +speaks of him, among other things, as</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p> +<span class="i8">Fraudis ineptae</span> +<span class="i0">Detector, dum ficta notat miracula caeci.</span></p> +</div> + +<p>This refers to the story told of him by Sir Thomas More, how he convicted +an impostor who claimed to have been born blind, but to have received +sight at St. Alban's shrine, by asking him the colour of the garments that +the duke himself and others were wearing; all these questions were +correctly answered by the beggar, who forgot for the moment that one born +blind who had only just received his sight, would not have known the +<i>names</i> of the various colours, though he might distinguish one +colour from another. The beggar was punished for his imposture by being +set in the stocks.</p> + +<p>This story is introduced into the first scene of the second act; of the +second part of "Henry VI.," a reproduction of a St. Albans legend in which +some students of the play will find an argument for attributing the play +to Francis Bacon, who lived close by and would be likely to know the +stories current in the town.</p> + +<p><b>The Tower and Bells.</b>—The ringing loft is reached by a staircase +starting from the door near the north-west corner of the north arm of the +transept. The steps were originally built of Roman bricks, but at the time +of the restoration had fresh treads of stone laid on them, so that the +ascent is an easy one; from this staircase one passes along the triforium +gallery of the western side of the transept, and then up a staircase in +the turret at the north-west angle of the tower to a room whose floor is +above the flat ceiling of the lantern visible from the floor of the +church. The bells are in the next story, and at no great height above the +floor of the ringing loft. In the ringing loft may be seen boards on which +are inscribed records of several memorable sets of changes that have been +rung, with the dates, the number of changes, the time occupied, which was +generally between three and four hours, and the names of the ringers and +the number of the bell that each one pulled. The peal consists of eight +bells; the tenor is in the key of E flat, and measures 4 ft. 6 in. in +diameter, and is calculated to weigh about 28 cwt. The whole peal was +originally cast in London by Philip Wightman in the <a name="page_79" id="page_79"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 79]</span>year +1699; but the second, fifth, and sixth bells were recast in the middle of +the eighteenth century, and the treble in 1845. On the tenor may be read +the following legend: "Vivos ad coelum, moritu[r]os ad solum pulsata +voco." The clock was in great measure reconstructed under Lord +Grimthorpe's direction and fitted with his gravity escapement; it strikes +the quarter chimes on the second, third, fourth, and seventh bells, and +the hours on the tenor. The mechanism of the chimes, which play at three, +six, nine, and twelve o'clock, was remade by Mr. Godman, of St. Stephen's +parish; this mechanism may be described as a kind of gigantic musical +box. A huge cylinder revolves, on which are projecting pegs of brass, +which as the cylinder goes round catch against wooden levers which raise +clappers that in their fall strike the bells. The same tune is played all +through each day, but a different tune is played each day of the week; at +the end of the week the barrel is automatically set so as to begin the +series of tunes again. There is, moreover, another tune—the Trinity +hymn—which can be set by hand, and this is used on the greater festivals.</p> + +<p>Besides the peal of eight the sacring bell which once hung near the high +altar is now hung in the tower.</p> + +<p>It may be well to finish the description of the church with a few notes +about the material used and the method of building, abbreviated from a +paper by Mr. James Neale. He says that during the restoration many +examples were found of lead dowels in the joints of detached +shafts. Sinkings were cut in the upper surface of the lower stone and in +the lower surface of the upper, so that when in place these sinkings would +be opposite to each other; a small hole one-eighth inch in diameter was +then bored in the upper stone, through which lead was poured into the +sinkings. The mortar used between the outer stones of the +fourteenth-century bays of the nave was mixed with oyster-shells, +contained a large amount of lime, and was very hard. There is much clunch +stone used in the interior and this is in a good state of preservation, +but any that has been used externally has decayed. The abaci of the Early +English capitals in the main arcade are of Barnack stone, which is harder +than clunch and so more suitable for bearing a weight. The Norman +stonework was cut with an axe, the Transition with a chisel. The Early +English is bolster-tooled; the Decorated ashlar (including the bays on the +south side of the nave) is claw-tooled, the mouldings being scraped; the +Perpendicular is finely scraped. <a name="page_80" id="page_80"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 80]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 336px;"> +<a name="illus_45" id="illus_45"></a> +<a href="./images/image45.jpg"> +<img src="images/image45_th.jpg" alt="SOUTH CHOIR AISLE." /></a> +<span class="caption">SOUTH CHOIR AISLE.</span> +</div> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page_81" id="page_81"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 81]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter_4" id="chapter_4"></a>CHAPTER IV.<br /> +<span class="subtitle">THE HISTORY OF THE MONASTERY AND SEE.</span></h2> +<p> + +Although, as stated in Chapter I., Albanus suffered martyrdom in 303 A.D., +and a small church was soon afterwards built over his grave, and another +of larger size subsequently erected, it was not until the eighth century +that the monastery was founded.</p> + +<p>The foundation was an act of atonement on the part of Offa II., King of +the Mercians, in the year 793. In the previous year he had been at the +court of Ethelbert, King of East Anglia, and was a suitor for the hand of +his daughter. But he treacherously murdered his host and took possession +of his kingdom. Either as a politic effort to remove the evil reputation +of such deeds, or as a conscientious offering to regain the favour of +Heaven by means of a great work for the Church, Offa resolved to found a +monastery, in honour of the protomartyr of Britain, upon the site of the +martyrdom. The first thing to do was to discover the actual remains of +St. Alban. The story of the discovery would not be complete without a +vision and a miracle. Accordingly a vision is said to have appeared to the +King at Bath, and a miraculous light to have guided him to the spot where +the coffin was found. This had been purposely removed from its first +resting-place within the walls of the church, for fear of its being +desecrated by the Saxons, who certainly did reduce the building almost to +a ruin. The coffin was found to contain the body of the martyr, as well as +the precious relics which had been placed within it by the Bishop of +Auxerre. Their presence establishes the identity of the remains. The +church was then repaired so as to be able to preserve safely the reliquary +which contained the precious relics "until a more worthy edifice should be +built." Permission to build and endow the monastery was obtained from +Pope Adrian I., the King making a special journey to Rome in order to +procure it. The martyr was canonized at the same time. At some later time +a valuable concession was granted to <a name="page_82" id="page_82"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 82]</span>the new monastery: the +tribute known as Peter's Pence being assigned to it, while the lands +belonging to the Abbey were exempted from the payment. This grant applied +to the whole of Offa's kingdom. The payment of Peter's Pence had only been +instituted sixty-six years previously, the object being to maintain a +Saxon college at Rome. Offa lived to see the monastery established and +partially endowed. He himself gave one of the royal manors to the +endowment, but he did not live long enough even to make a beginning of the +grand church he appears to have had in contemplation, for he died not long +after his return from Rome, some authorities giving the year 794 as the +date of his death, others 796.</p> + +<p>The monastery was of the Benedictine order. Though it became important, +and at last the chief of the Benedictine houses in England, it was not one +of the earliest. The Benedictine order had been introduced into England in +596, and forty-five monasteries had been founded before that of +St. Alban's. Many of these were little more than cells, and many were +afterwards absorbed into the larger establishments. Yet several very +famous abbeys were founded at least a century before Offa founded +St. Alban's.</p> + +<p>Many of the early Abbots of St. Albans were men of mark and of influence +in the national councils, and some of them were closely related to the +royal family. The Chronicles, however, tell us but little of them, except +when the Abbey itself is concerned. Some notes on the Abbots will now be +given.</p> +<p> +1. <b>Willegod</b> (793-796). His rule, we are told, was short but +prudent. His death is attributed to vexation at not being able to obtain +the body of Offa for burial in the Abbey. He died two months after the +King. The chronicler charitably hopes that Offa's name is written in the +book of life, although his mortal remains are not honourably +preserved. Offa's son and successor, Ecgfrid, confirmed his father's +charter and gave another manor to the Abbey.</p> +<p> +2. <b>Eadric.</b> He was elected in 796, according to the express wishes +of the founder, from among the inmates of the monastery. He was of royal +blood and had the King's support in some critical difficulties, and ruled +with discretion.</p> +<p> +3. <b>Wulsig.</b> This Abbot, like his predecessor, a monk and akin to the +King, scandalized the house by hunting in lay attire; and by entertaining +noble ladies within the precincts. He wasted <a name="page_83" id="page_83"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 83]</span>the substance +of the Abbey by bestowing it upon his relations. Most of the property +that he had alienated was recovered after his death, and those whom he had +fattened died miserably in poverty. It is said that he was much hated by +the monks and died of poison.</p> +<p> +4. <b>Wulnoth.</b> He began well, but after a few years gave himself up to +sport habited as a layman. He is said to have ruled eleven years, and to +have repented when affected by paralysis, and to have made a happy +end. The chronicler adds with sly humour that his change to holiness was +brought about "<i>faciendo de necessitate virtutem.</i>" In his time the +Danes plundered the Abbey of its treasures, vestments and sacred vessels, +and carried off the bones of St. Alban to Owense (probably Odense in +Funen). The sacrist Egwin was much distressed at the loss of this his +greatest treasure, and prayed that he might see the body brought +back. St. Alban appeared to him in a vision, and bade him go to Owense and +there await instructions. After a year's stay at the monastery he was +admitted into the brotherhood and became sacrist, never revealing the fact +that he had come from St. Albans. Long did he wait for an opportunity of +carrying away the sacred bones, until one winter's night he found means of +removing them from the shrine wherein they were kept, and packing them in +a chest, which he gave to an English merchant whom he knew, bidding him +take it to St. Albans. He said that it contained books which the Abbot +had lent him, and which he was now returning; he added that he would +shortly bring the key himself, or, if he could not come himself, would +send it by a messenger. Together with the chest, which in due course was +delivered, a letter was sent detailing the circumstances of his pious +fraud; this was read by the Abbot in chapter, to the great joy of the +brethren. Egwin shortly after this obtained leave to make a journey to +England, and when safely in the Abbey he wrote to the monks at Owense, +telling them what he had done. Some of them denounced him as guilty of +sacrilege, others justified his action. When he opened the chest in the +chapter-house at St. Albans miraculous cures were wrought on many who were +infirm, both in the Abbey and in the town.</p> +<p> +5. <b>Eadfrith.</b> This Abbot was handsome in person, but despicable in +his deeds. He never attended the services in the choir. During his time +Wulfa, the prior, built an oratory in honour of Germanus on the spot where +the rude dwelling he had occupied <a name="page_84" id="page_84"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 84]</span>when visiting St. Albans +lay in ruins. After Wulfa's death Eadfrith saw the error of his ways, +resigned his office, became a hermit, and died a holy man.</p> + +<p>No new Abbot was appointed for a year, as the monks were divided into two +parties in favour of rival candidates.</p> +<p> +6. <b>Wulsin.</b> The bishop after a time intervened and put an end to the +dissension, and the monks unanimously elected Wulsin, or Ulsinus. He +helped the inhabitants of the town to build the three churches of +St. Michael, St. Stephen, and St. Peter (see Appendix). He died holy and +full of days.</p> +<p> +7. <b>Ælfric.</b> This Abbot purchased of King Eadgar a large fishpond +which was too near the Abbey to be pleasant; he drained it, leaving only a +small pool of water and a bed of reeds, converting the rest of it into +gardens. He translated into Saxon some of the historical books of the Old +Testament. His doctrine on the Lord's Supper, as expounded in a letter to +Wulfstan, Bishop of Sherborne, which is preserved at Exeter, was identical +with that of the twenty-eighth Article of Religion. He died "full of days, +eminent for sanctity, after having achieved many praiseworthy actions."</p> +<p> +8. <b>Ealdred.</b> He ruled but for a short time, but was a benefactor to +the town. He cleared away much of the ruins of Verulamium, especially +those caverns which had become the abode of robbers and outlaws. He also +collected materials (chiefly from the Roman ruins)—tiles, stone, and +timber—with a view to the rebuilding of the abbey church.</p> +<p> +9. <b>Eadmer.</b> He was pious, courteous, learned, but he left the +monastery much in debt, so that some possessions had to be sold and some +timber to be cut down.</p> +<p> +10. <b>Ælfric</b> is described as of singular and conspicuous merit. He +wrote a history of St. Alban, and arranged it for musical +recitation. Being afraid of a Danish invasion, and thinking that the +relics of the protomartyr, which had already been once carried away to +Denmark, would not be safe in the shrine as it stood, he hid them under +the altar of St. Nicholas, and at the same time pretended to send them to +Ely for safe custody, giving the authorities at Ely to understand that the +true relics were being committed to their charge; this, it is said, he did +being a prudent and circumspect man, and fearing that the men at Ely would +be blinded by covetousness, and refuse to return the true relics if they +once got them into their possession. The Danish <a name="page_85" id="page_85"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 85]</span>invasion was +soon over, the King being drowned, and then Ælfric demanded from the monks +of Ely the relics he had intrusted to their care. The caution he had +exercised was justified by the conduct of the Ely monks; for they, +thinking that the bones they had were really those of St. Alban, at first +refused to return them, but at last consented to do so. The bones, +however, that they sent back were not those they had received. It is plain +that these old monks were not always to be trusted to behave in an +honourable manner when precious relics were concerned. The chronicler, +however, who tells the story, considers the conduct of the monks of +St. Albans in sending spurious relics was "pious," while the behaviour of +the monks of Ely was "detestable and disgraceful"—but then the chronicler +was a monk of St. Albans. Ælfric bought the royal palace of Kingsbury and +its land near the Abbey, demolishing the whole of the palace except one +tower. Ælfric in 995 was promoted to the office of Archbishop of +Canterbury.</p> +<p> +11. <b>Leofric.</b><a name="footref_10" id="footref_10" href="#footnote_10"><span class="fnanchor">10</span></a> This Abbot was half brother to Ælfric. During a +great famine he spent large sums in the relief of the poor, devoting to +this purpose even some of the treasures that had been got together for the +rebuilding of the church, and many gold and silver vessels assigned to his +own use in the Abbey. The monks, however, objected to this conversion of +the property of the Abbey to uses for which it was not originally +intended.</p> +<p> +12. <b>Leofstan.</b> This Abbot was confessor to King Edward (the +Confessor) and his Queen Edith. He acquired much land for the Abbey, and +cleared away the woods between London and St. Albans, to make the roads +safer for travellers. To secure the good services of a knight as protector +of the Abbey he assigned him a certain manor; the service was faithfully +performed. The Normans, when they came, dispossessed the holder, and +conferred the manor upon Roger, a Norman knight, who, strange to say, +fulfilled the conditions on which his predecessor had held the land. At +Leofstan's death the Abbey was in a state of the greatest prosperity.</p> +<p> +13. <b>Frithric.</b> This Abbot was chosen in the reign of Harold<a name="page_86" id="page_86"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 86]</span> +as leader of the southerners against the Normans, just as Aldred, +Archbishop of York, was chosen as the leader of the northcountrymen. +William accordingly ravaged the possessions of the monastery. After the +Conquest, when William was accepted as King, Frithric administered to him +the oath that he would keep inviolate all the laws of the realm, which +former kings, especially Edward, had established. Needless to say, William +soon began to disregard this oath, and despoiled the Abbey of St. Alban's +more and more, till Frithric in despair resigned his office as Abbot and +retired to Ely, where he soon died. The monks of Ely pretended that he +took with him to their monastery the precious relics of St. Alban the +Martyr.</p> +<p> +14. <b>Paul of Caen</b> (1077-1093). A great change now comes over the +history of the monastery. The new Abbot was a Norman and a kinsman of +Lanfranc, the first Norman Archbishop of Canterbury. Like Lanfranc, who +had been Abbot of Caen, he resolved to rebuild his church, and, like +Lanfranc, adopted in England the style he had been accustomed to at Caen; +but his ideas on the matter of size were far grander than that of his +former Abbot, for St. Alban's Abbey Church far surpassed in its dimensions +the cathedral church which the new archbishop built at Canterbury. As we +have already seen (Chap. I.), he used the Roman bricks from the ruined +city of Verulamium as building material. Important as this work was, the +account of it occupies but a few lines in the Chronicles. In these it is +mentioned that Lanfranc contributed 1,000 marks towards the cost. Paul +was an energetic man, as may be seen by the short time occupied in +building this large church; but it was not only in providing a new church +that he was active, for it is recorded that he reformed the lives and +manners of the monks, secured the restoration of land that had been +alienated, founded cells as occasion demanded, and persuaded lay donors to +give largely to the Abbey—tithes, bells, plate, and books. Robert +Mowbray, Earl of Northumberland, gave the Priory of Tynemouth, which he +had founded, to the Abbey of St. Albans. Abbot Paul died on his way home +from a visit to this new priory, and was buried magnificently in his own +Abbey.</p> + +<p>The "Gesta Abbatum" begins at this point to sum up the good and evil deeds +of the abbots. Among Paul's shortcomings the following are mentioned: he +lost property through negligence; he destroyed the tombs of his English +predecessors in the Abbey; <a name="page_87" id="page_87"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 87]</span>he did not secure as he should +have done the bones of Offa for his new church; he alienated the woods of +Northame; he bestowed some of the property of the Abbey upon his +illiterate kinsfolk. Yet, on the whole, his good deeds outweighed his evil +ones. William II., after Paul's death, kept the Abbey in his own hands for +four years, using, as was his wont, the revenues for his own +advantage. His death in the New Forest was considered by the monks of the +Abbey as a special punishment for the extortion he had practised on them.</p> +<p> +15. <b>Richard d'Aubeny</b> or <b>d'Albini</b> (1097-1119). This Abbot, a +Norman, was a man of much influence, and during his rule the Abbey was +very prosperous. He presented many and valuable ornaments to the church: a +shrine wrought in gold for the relics of the apostles, which Germanus had +placed in St. Alban's coffin in the fifth century; another shrine of +ivory and gilt, for the relics of martyrs and saints; a great number of +vestments and many valuable books. During his time, 1104, the relics of +St. Cuthbert were translated from the temporary shrine which Bishop +Carileph had erected over them to the new Cathedral Church at Durham, and +Abbot Richard, as head of Tynemouth Priory, was present on that occasion, +and a miracle was worked upon him, for his withered arm was cured by being +brought into contact with St. Cuthbert's body. In gratitude for this +benefit, he built a chapel in honour of St. Cuthbert in his own Abbey. +For some reason the Abbey, though no doubt used, had not hitherto been +consecrated. This omission was made good on the festival of the Holy +Innocents, 1115, by Geoffrey, Archbishop of Rouen, the Bishops of Lincoln, +London, Durham and Salisbury assisting. Henry III., his Queen Matilda, the +chief nobles and prelates of the kingdom, were present and stayed at the +Abbey from December 27th until the Feast of the Epiphany (January +6th). Wymondham Priory in Norfolk was founded by William, Count of +Arundel, and conferred on St. Albans during Abbot Richard's rule. Like his +predecessor, he enriched his relations at the expense of the Abbey, and is +further blamed by the chronicler for having promised that the Abbey should +be subject for the future not to the Archbishop but to the Bishop of +Lincoln.<a name="footref_11" id="footref_11" href="#footnote_11"><span class="fnanchor">11</span></a> This change seems to have led to a stricter rule<a name="page_88" id="page_88"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 88]</span> +and so was displeasing to the monks, though it is admitted that the +Archbishop had not treated the Abbey well.</p> +<p> +16. <b>Geoffrey of Gorham</b> (1119-1146). This Abbot came from Maine, +where he had been born. He had been invited to take charge of the +monastery school, but did not arrive in time, so he opened a school at +Dunstable. On one occasion, when a miracle play was being performed by his +scholars, he borrowed some vestments of the Abbey; these were +unfortunately destroyed in a fire; unable to pay for them, he offered +himself as a sacrifice and became a monk. He was unanimously elected Abbot +on the death of his predecessor, but at first was reluctant to accept the +office, though finally his reluctance was overcome. He made a most +energetic ruler. He increased the allowances to the kitchen, cellars, and +almonry. He ordered that the revenues of certain rectories should be used +for providing ornaments, for a fabric fund, and for the infirmary. He +founded and endowed the leper hospital of St. Julian on the London Road, +and established the nunnery of Sopwell (see Appendix) for thirteen +sisters. He built the guest hall, the infirmary, and its chapel. He also +began to construct a new shrine for the relics of the saint, but after +spending £60 on it discontinued the work to give himself breathing time, +and never went on with it again. He felt himself constrained to sell some +of the materials he had collected for this purpose, to obtain money for +the relief of the poor during a famine. A long description is preserved of +the decoration of the shrine. Among other precious things worked into it +was an eagle with outstretched wings, the gift of King Ethelred. Although +it was not quite finished, it was sufficiently so as to be ready to +receive the bones of the martyr. The remains were examined in the presence +of Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln, and sundry Abbots in 1129. The +genuineness of the relics, so it is said, was established by appearances +of the saint to divers persons as well as by miracles. One shoulder blade +was missing; but this, as it afterwards appeared, had been given by a +former Abbot, at the request of King Canute, to the reigning duke of some +foreign land, who had founded a cathedral church on purpose to receive so +precious a relic. A long list is given of the valuable gifts this Abbot +made to the monastery and church. During his time lived the hermits Roger +and Sigur, and the recluse Christina, whose story has been told in Chapter +III.</p> +<p> +<a name="page_89" id="page_89"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 89]</span>At this time also Henry I. granted to the Abbots the Liberty +of St. Albans, which gave them the power of trying minor offences, which +had hitherto been tried in the civil courts of the hundred and the shire.</p> + +<p>There are only two faults that are recorded of this Abbot: first, he gave +some of the Abbey tithe to the support of the church that he had rebuilt; +and, secondly, he was too easy in business dealings and allowed himself to +be imposed upon.</p> +<p> +17. <b>Randulf of Gobion</b> (1146-1151). This Abbot had previously been +chaplain and treasurer to the Bishop of Lincoln. He erected the Abbot's +chamber and other useful buildings, and freed the Abbey from debt. He +deposed the Prior because he suspected that a seal he found not yet +engraved had been prepared for a new Abbot, and that this indicated a +desire on the part of the Prior and monks to depose him. He is said to +have burnt a rich chasuble in order to obtain the gold with which it was +embroidered, and to have removed the gold plates from the shrine to +procure money to make a purchase of land—the rent of which, however, went +to the Abbey, not himself—while keeping the gold plate used at his own +table. He was allowed to nominate a successor, and then resigned, dying +shortly afterwards.</p> +<p> +18. <b>Robert of Gorham</b> (1151-1166). He was a nephew of Geoffrey of +Gorham, sixteenth Abbot. He had been a monk abroad, but coming on a visit +to his uncle he obtained permission to "migrate" to St. Albans. In time he +became Prior. As Abbot he managed the affairs of the Abbey with +prudence. He repaired and releaded the church, whitened it within and +without, that is to say, renewed the plaster with which from the first it +had probably been covered. Matthew Paris tells us that one Nicholas +Breakspear, a clerk from Langley, applied to him for admission to the +Abbey, but was refused, as he failed to pass his entrance +examination. "Wait, my son," said the Abbot, "and go on with your +schooling so as to become more fit." Nicholas is spoken of as a youth, +but he must have been about fifty years of age when Robert became Abbot, +and was certainly Bishop of Albano within a year or two of that date, and +became Pope, under the name of Adrian IV., in 1154, the only Englishman +that has ever sat in St. Peter's chair. If there is any truth in the story +of his rejection at St. Albans, it must have happened earlier than the +abbacy of Robert. King <a name="page_90" id="page_90"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 90]</span>Stephen visited the Abbey, and Robert +obtained his authority to level the remains of the camp, that is, the +tower that Ælfric, the tenth Abbot, had allowed to remain standing at +Kingsbury, which had become a den of robbers.</p> + +<p>Soon after Breakspear had become Pope, Robert and three bishops from the +foreign dominions of Henry II. went as envoys to him from the King; the +Abbot hoped that the Pope's connection with St. Albans, for his father had +become late in life a monk there, would induce him to enlarge its +privileges. Knowing that the dignitaries at Rome and the members of the +Pope's household were wellnigh insatiable, he distributed valuable gifts +among them to secure their good offices with the Pope. Robert complained +of the intolerable oppression of the Bishop of Lincoln, and the insolence +of his agents, and obtained from Adrian complete exemption from episcopal +supervision. The Abbey henceforth was to be subject to Rome alone. When +the Pope's letter granting this exemption was exhibited at a council in +London, the greatest indignation was expressed. An agreement was, +however, at last signed between the Bishop of Lincoln and the Abbot, three +bishops intervening in the interest of peace. Abbot Robert then sent two +of his nephews, monks, to Rome with still more presents, and as a result +of their mission further privileges and liberties were granted to the +Abbot; he was, among other things, allowed to wear pontifical robes. The +Bishop of Lincoln was exasperated, but did not dare to defy the Pope's +authority. Adrian IV. was poisoned in 1158, and the next Pope granted a +new and important privilege to St. Albans; what it was is not stated. The +Bishop of Lincoln now thought it was time to assert himself. He declared +his intention of visiting the Abbey as its Bishop, and ordered that +suitable preparations should be made for his reception. The Abbot refused +to receive him. He was, on a complaint made by the Bishop, cited before +the King's Court and called on to justify his action. After a protracted +investigation lasting for three or four years, the King assented to the +Abbot's wearing a mitre, and recommended him to buy off further opposition +on the part of the Bishop by a grant of certain lands, which were worth +£10 a year. At Easter, 1163, Abbot Robert celebrated Mass wearing for the +first time mitre, ring, gloves, and sandals. He also at the Council of +Tours in the same year took the first seat among the English Abbots, the +Abbot of <a name="page_91" id="page_91"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 91]</span>St. Edmondsbury vainly attempting to take it from +him. He gave costly gifts to the church, built the chapter-house and the +Locutorium, the Chapel of St. Nicholas, part of the cloister, the long +stable, granary, larder, and two solars. He was buried in the new +chapter-house, leaving the monastery in debt, caused no doubt by his +lavish expenditure in bribery at Rome. On his death in October, 1166, the +King kept the abbacy vacant for several months, for at this time the great +conflict between the King and the Archbishop, Becket, was raging, and the +King wished visibly to assert his authority.</p> +<p> +19. <b>Symeon</b> (1167-1183). Symeon had been Prior, and therefore had +been acting head of the monastery since Robert's death. He was a literary +man and an encourager of learning. Being an intimate friend of Thomas +Becket, he went to Prince Henry, the King's son, to intercede for the +Archbishop and bring about a reconciliation, if possible, with the King; +but he was driven from the court with contumely. Symeon finished the +shrine. The feretory made by Abbot Geoffrey still contained the bones of +the martyr; this was now covered by the work of Abbot Symeon, which was +made of large size so as to contain the other. The relics of Amphibalus +were discovered about this time at Redbourn, where he had been put to +death. The Bishop of Durham dedicated the Chapel of St. Cuthbert which had +been built by Richard (fifteenth Abbot). Like several of the other Abbots, +Symeon enriched his relations and left the Abbey in debt.</p> +<p> +20. <b>Warren</b>, or <b>Warin, of Cambridge</b> (1183-1195). This Abbot +was of low birth, but had risen to the position of Prior. The sacrist +alone opposed his election on account of his birth and also because he +squinted, and predicted all manner of evils to the monastery if he were +elected Abbot. Henry II., soon after the new Abbot had been appointed, and +the Bishop of Lincoln happening to be at St. Albans at the same time, the +Bishop brought up the old grievance about the Abbey having been made +independent of him, but the King silenced him with angry words. Warren +founded a leper hospital for women as Geoffrey had founded one for +men. This hospital was dissolved by Wolsey in 1526, its revenues going +towards the endowment of Christ Church, Oxford. The bones of Amphibalus +were removed from the locker in which they were kept, and placed in a new +shrine adorned with gold and silver. This Abbot made numerous regulations +concerning the domestic affairs of the monastery; one <a name="page_92" id="page_92"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 92]</span>dealt +with the dress, another made better provision for sick monks, another +shortened the services, another allowed meat in the infirmary, yet another +ordered that all dead monks should be buried in stone coffins, not merely +laid in earth graves. This Abbot, in lieu of delivering up the chalice +which Richard I. had demanded from all English abbeys wherewith to pay his +ransom, sent 200 marks of silver. Shortly before his death he set aside +100 marks to be given to his successor for renewing the west front of the +church. Among his faults it is noted that he was self-willed, that he +banished to distant cells any of the brethren that offended him, and that +he felled timber belonging to the Abbey and sent the proceeds as presents +to the King and Queen.</p> +<p> +21. <b>John de Cella</b> (1195-1214). This Abbot derived his name from the +Cell of Wallingford, of which he had been Prior. He was learned, pious, +and a good disciplinarian. He left the secular affairs of the Abbey to be +managed by the Prior and Cellarer, and devoted himself to his religious +duties, and to the fabric. He pulled down the Norman west front with the +intention of rebuilding it; he dug foundations, but after he had spent +Warren's legacy of 100 marks his walls had not risen above the ground +level. His master of the works led him into needless expense, and as +progress was so slow the Abbot became dispirited. He, however, got another +master of the works and started afresh, assigning to the building fund one +sheaf of wheat from every acre. This arrangement lasted during the whole +of his rule and for many years afterwards, but progress was still +slow. Gifts of gold and silver, considerable sums of money collected by a +wandering preacher, who pretended to be Amphibalus, restored to life, were +all consumed. At last in weariness of heart the Abbot gave himself to +other work; he began to build a new refectory and dormitory, persuading +the monks to give up wine for fifteen years, and contribute the money so +saved to the cost of the new building. He had a great reputation for +sanctity. At times, when he was saying mass, responses were sung, so it is +said, by voices not of this world. He limited the number of monks to a +hundred. King John ordered him to say mass during the interdict, but he +refused, whereupon John seized the monastery and ejected the monks, and +only on payment of 600 marks, and afterwards of 500 more, would he restore +the Abbey to its rightful owners.</p> +<p> +<a name="page_93" id="page_93"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 93]</span>22. <b>William of Trumpington</b> (1214-1235). This Abbot +was an entirely different style of man from his predecessor. He was much +addicted to social enjoyment, was a good man of business, and looked into +matters thoroughly for himself; he visited all the cells belonging to the +Abbey, and carried on the work of building in an energetic manner. The +dormitory was finished, the aisles were roofed with oak, an octagon built +on the tower, and, chief of all, the long-delayed work at the west end was +resumed and finished. The sacrist, Walter of Colchester, was an excellent +carver and carved a handsome pulpit with a great cross thereon, and +statues of St. John and the Virgin. The shrine of St. Amphibalus, which +had stood to the south of that of St. Alban, was moved to the middle of +the nave and inclosed within iron screenwork; much other carving was done +in the church and many new altars dedicated. A fine bell was given for +services in honour of our Lady; the Chapel of St. Cuthbert with a +dormitory over it for seven monks was rebuilt; most of the walls were +replastered; cloister walks were built, fitted with oak beams, ceiled and +covered with oak shingles. This Abbot acquired much property for the +Abbey, but during the civil wars large sums were extorted by either +party. In 1235 the church was struck by lightning and set on fire, but +fortunately a tank of rainwater was close at hand, and the fire was soon +extinguished. As the Abbot died eight days afterwards, the accident was +looked upon as a presage of his coming death.</p> +<p> +23. <b>John of Hertford</b> (1235-1260). He had been sacristan and +afterwards prior of the cell at Hertford. The Pope's bull confirming his +election required him to present himself at Rome every three years. The +church was again struck by lightning, notwithstanding the fact that the +impression of the Pope's seal, bearing an image of the Lamb of God, had +been duly placed on the top of the tower as a protection against +lightning. Abbot John built the guest-house, and devoted the revenues of +three rectories to the improvement of the quality of the ale, and for the +providing of better entertainment for guests. He repaired many of the +buildings belonging to the Abbey, the granary, water mills, houses in +London, etc. At the coronation of Henry III. the Abbot of St. Albans took +precedence of all the mitred abbots; and though afterwards the Abbot of +Westminster obtained precedence, yet in 1536 the signature of Abbot Catton +of St. Albans stands first, that of Abbot Benson of Westminster<a name="page_94" id="page_94"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 94]</span> +following, in the list of names attached to the "Articles of Faith" +drawn up by Convocation. So it would appear that the Abbots of St. Albans +had by this time recovered their rights of precedence. When the see of +Lincoln was vacant, the Archbishop proposed to hold an ordination in +St. Albans Abbey, but was refused permission. During this Abbot's rule the +Pope demanded more than once large sums of money; the Abbot refused to +pay, and in consequence of his refusal the church was put under an +interdict. At this time lived the celebrated monk Matthew of Paris, to +whom we owe much of the knowledge we possess of the history of the Abbey +up to his own days. The Chronicles carry us nearly up to the end of Abbot +John's rule, Matthew himself dying only a year before the Abbot. For the +subsequent history, up to the abbacy of Thomas de la Mare, thirtieth +Abbot, we are indebted to Thomas of Walsingham. Matthew was born about +1200, and though of English descent derived his surname from the French +capital, either because it was his birthplace, or because he was a student +at its university. He became a monk of St. Albans on January 21st, +1217. He went with Abbot John of Hertford to London to be present at the +marriage of Henry III. to Eleanor of Provence, 1236; and again he went to +Westminster Abbey for the celebration of the feast of the founder, on +which occasion he was asked by the King to write an account of the +proceedings. He was sent on a mission to the Benedictine monastery at +Trondhjem in 1248, attended the royal court at Winchester in 1251, and was +present at the marriage of Henry's daughter to the Scottish King, +Alexander II. When Henry III. spent a week at St. Albans in 1257, he +admitted Matthew to his table and treated him with great confidence, +communicating many facts and details of his life to him. Matthew +afterwards exerted his influence with the King in behalf of the University +of Oxford, when its privileges were in danger from the encroachments of +the Bishop of Lincoln. His great work was the "Historia Major." This +professes to give the outlines of human history from the Creation up to +1259. The work up to 1189 seems to have been compiled by John de Cella, +from 1189 to 1235 by Roger of Wendover. Matthew of Paris transcribed and +edited the work of his two predecessors, and continued the history from +1235 to 1259. He shows himself in it a warm advocate of English rights and +liberties, and an opponent of papal and regal tyranny. It is the<a name="page_95" id="page_95"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 95]</span> +best early history we have of our own country up to the beginning of +the Barons' War, and is also an authority on Continental affairs. He wrote +too an abridgement of this work, leaving out the parts dealing with +foreign history; this he called "Historia Anglorum." He also wrote "The +Lives of the two Offas" and the "Lives of Twenty-three Abbots of +St. Albans," whence most of the details of the history of the Abbey given +here have been derived. Thomas of Walsingham, who continued the history, +lived in the reigns of Henry IV. and Henry V.</p> + +<p>Against Abbot John it is alleged that he had his commons sent to his +private room, instead of taking his meals with the brethren in the +refectory. When he died he was buried with great honour, "as became so +great a father."</p> +<p> +24. <b>Roger of Norton</b> (1260-1290). The new Abbot had been one of the +monks; his appointment was confirmed by Pope Urban in 1263. During his +rule the monastery flourished, notwithstanding the disturbed state of the +country in the early years of it. He acquired many new possessions; the +infirmary was rebuilt; the Abbot's lodgings were repaired; many ornaments, +vestments, books, a silver thurible, and three new bells were procured. +He made regulations for the preservation of the Abbey property, the +management of the servants and tenants, and for the careful custody of the +Abbey swans. Much litigation took place during his abbacy. Queen Eleanor +claimed one of the manors, but was not able to make good her claim. A +controversy about the appointment of the Prior of the cell at Wymondham +arose between the Abbot and the Countess of Arundel, which was finally +settled by an agreement that the Countess should nominate three persons, +of whom the Abbot was to select one. Another dispute arose between the +Abbot and the townspeople, about grinding corn and fulling cloth. The +people claimed the right of having handmills in their houses, the Abbot +insisted on his mills being used; the matter was referred to the law +courts and decided in the Abbot's favour. Although through negligence some +property was lost, yet this Abbot's character was highly commended:</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<span class="i0">Hic quem dedit Dominus nobis in rectorem</span> +<span class="i0">Prudenter sustinuit onus et honorem.</span> +</div> + + +<p>He was strict in government, of good life and conversation, eminently +religious, distinguished for his learning. He was paralyzed for three +years before his death, and when he died his <a name="page_96" id="page_96"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 96]</span>body was buried +before the high altar, but his heart was placed in a small box of Eastern +workmanship before one of the altars in the retro-choir.</p> +<p> +25. <b>John of Berkhamstead</b> (1290-1301). This Abbot was installed on +St. Alban's Day, 1291. The King, Edward I., visited the Abbey during the +vacancy, and again after the appointment of the new Abbot. The conduct of +the King's agent before the election had been very extortionate. The claim +of the Warden of Hertford Castle to certain tolls within the Abbot's +liberty was the subject of a long investigation; in the end the claim was +disallowed. The Archbishop of Canterbury, Robert of Winchelsea, sent a +message that he wished for hospitality in the Abbey, but the Abbot refused +to entertain him unless he would sign a paper undertaking that his visit +should not in any way prejudice the privileges granted by the Pope, the +Abbey being stated to belong "ad Romanam Ecclesiam, nullo medio." The +Archbishop declined to sign this document, and so had to put up with +lodgings outside the Abbey precincts. When he arrived the bells of +St. Stephen's Church were not rung in his honour, whereupon the Archbishop +put the church under an interdict; but the clergy paid no attention to +this, and conducted the services as usual. During his rule the body of +Queen Eleanor rested at St. Albans, and one of the Eleanor crosses was +erected and remained here until 1702, when it was destroyed. A drinking +fountain now occupies its site. In 1302 the Abbot obtained from Edward +I. a confirmation of all the grants that had been made to the Abbey by +former kings. This Abbot does not receive a very good character from the +chronicler: he cut down and sold too much timber, granted too many +pensions, and deprived several of the priors of the cells without +sufficient cause.</p> +<p> +26. <b>John de Marinis</b> (1302-1308). This Abbot had been Cellarer, and +afterwards Prior, for fourteen years, before his election as Abbot. The +full list of the fees and expenses connected with his confirmation at Rome +is given. The sum was enormous: 2,500 marks and 400 shillings.</p> + +<p>He offended Edward II. by refusing to supply some carriages and horses +which the King had demanded, and so when Edward came to St. Albans he +refused to see the Abbot. The latter tried to appease the King by a +present made through the notorious favourite Piers Gaveston, and also by a +grant of the manor of Westwood, which was beyond his power to give, but +all to no <a name="page_97" id="page_97"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 97]</span>purpose. Most of the records of his rule relate to +rights of property and regulations respecting the monks. As his end +approached he made a statement of his liabilities. He owed £1,300 and had +never paid the 1,000 marks due to the King at the last vacancy. We are +told that he was constant, not given to much talk, honest in his life, +religious, and circumspect.</p> +<p> +27. <b>Hugh of Eversden</b> (1308-1326). This Abbot, who had been Cellarer +for five years, is described as being tall and handsome, able to speak +French and English well, but with little knowledge of Latin. On this +account he wished to avoid going to Rome, and sent his proctors instead to +obtain the Pope's confirmation of his election—but they, having incurred +much expense, returned to say that the Pope insisted on the new Abbot +appearing at Rome in person. By liberal presents he made a favourable +impression at Rome, but the journey, beyond the payments of first-fruits, +cost him more than £1,000. With the help of a legacy from Reginald of +St. Albans he finished the Lady Chapel and the retro-choir, in which he +placed the shrine of St. Amphibalus. King Edward II. paid a second visit +to the Abbey, and on being told by the Abbot of the benefactions of Edward +I. gave 100 marks and much timber towards the work then in progress. The +Abbot was twice besieged in his Abbey by the townspeople; they desired to +be answerable to the King and not the Abbot. They gained their point, +though they were compelled to surrender to the next Abbot the privileges +they had obtained of Abbot Hugh. It was during the rule of this Abbot that +the piers in the main arcade of the nave gave way while mass was being +said on St. Paulinus' Day, 1323, and he had to begin repairing this part +of the church.</p> +<p> +28. <b>Richard of Wallingford</b> (1326-1334). He was of humble birth; his +father was a blacksmith. After taking his degree at Oxford he became a +monk, and resided at St. Albans for three years, when he again went to +Oxford and studied philosophy and theology there for nine years. He was on +a visit to St. Albans at the time of the death of Abbot Hugh. He was +elected Abbot, but the election was found to be informal, so he resigned +his claim to the Pope, who thereupon appointed him Abbot. He wrote a +Register of things done in his time, compiled a book of Decretals and +Constitutions of Provincial Chapters, and sundry works on geometry and +<a name="page_98" id="page_98"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 98]</span>astronomy. He constructed a clock showing the courses of the +sun and moon, the ebb and flow of the tides, etc., which Leland, Librarian +to Henry VIII., speaks of as still going in his day. He also made an +astronomical instrument to which he gave the name "Albion," and wrote a +book describing the manner of using it. Edward III., visiting the Abbey +and seeing the clock being constructed, while the damage done by the fall +of the nave piers in his predecessor's time had not been fully repaired, +remonstrated with the Abbot, who replied that anyone could repair the +church, but few could construct a clock such as he was making.</p> + +<p>It is said that he suffered from leprosy and that his death was hastened +by the shock caused by a terrible thunderstorm on St. Andrew's Eve, 1334, +which set some of the domestic buildings on fire. The fire was put out +before much damage was done, but the Abbot died.</p> +<p> +29. <b>Michael of Mentmore</b> (1335-1349). He was a graduate of Oxford, a +monk of St. Albans, and had been appointed Master of the Schools. He +finished the repairs to the south arcading and south aisle begun by Abbot +Hugh, built three altars, and vaulted the aisle. He baptized in 1341 +Edmund of Langley, fifth son of Edward III., from whom the House of York +was descended. Philippa, the Queen, went to the Abbey to be churched and +gave the Abbey a cloth of gold. The Abbot, the Prior, the sub-prior and +forty-seven monks fell victims to the terrible plague known as the Black +Death, which was ravaging the country in 1349. He is described as being +pious, patient, and meek like Moses.</p> +<p> +30. <b>Thomas de la Mare</b> (1349-1396). He was a man of high birth, and +was connected with many people of importance, among them probably Sir +Peter de la Mare, the first Speaker of the House of Commons. He became a +monk at St. Albans, and was sent to Wymondham, recalled to St. Albans, and +afterwards became kitchener, cellarer, and then Prior at Tynemouth in +Northumberland. When Abbot Michael died the Prior of Wymondham was +elected, but declined the abbacy, whereupon Thomas de la Mare was +elected. One of the proctors who started with him to Rome died on the way +of the Black Death. The new Abbot himself, after his appointment had been +confirmed, was taken seriously ill at Rome, but recovered with great +suddenness. He was a great favourite with Edward III., and<a name="page_99" id="page_99"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 99]</span> +it is said that King John of France, who was taken prisoner at +Poictiers in 1356, was for a time committed to his charge; he treated John +with great moderation and respect, and King John afterwards showed his +appreciation of his treatment by releasing some St. Albans men who were +prisoners of war in France, bidding them tell the Abbot that they owed +their release to him. The Abbot was strict in correcting faults, curbing +excesses, cutting away abuses, and putting things right; he was revered by +all, feared by many. He was appointed by the King as visitor to numerous +monasteries, and in 1351 was President of a general chapter of +Benedictines. Moreover his knowledge of painting was such that Edward +III. appointed him master of the painters assigned for the works to be +executed at the chapel of the Palace of Westminster, and the ornamental +painting and glazing of St. Stephen's Chapel was carried on for several +years under his supervision. After having been Abbot for some years he +wished to resign, but Edward III. would not hear of it. In the time of +Richard II. an attack was made by the followers of Wat Tyler on the +Abbey. They succeeded in extorting certain charters from the Abbot, but +after the collapse of the rebellion the King himself came to the Abbey and +stayed there for eight days, summoning all the commons of the county to +make oath to do suit and service to the Abbot and the convent in the +customary manner. He rebuilt the Great Gate of the Abbey (see +Appendix). He died on September 15th, 1396, having been Abbot for +forty-seven years, a longer period than any of his predecessors or +successors. He was buried before the high altar and a brass to his memory +may now be seen in the Wheathampstead chantry.</p> +<p> +31. <b>John de la Moots</b> (1396-1401). He had held several offices in +the Abbey before his election as Abbot, and when Cellarer had been put in +the pillory in Luton Market, "in hatred to the Abbot and utter contempt of +religion." The conspiracy to dethrone Richard II. was first formed at the +dinner table of this Abbot, when the Duke of Gloucester and the Prior of +Westminster were dining with him. In 1399 the body of John of Gaunt rested +in the Abbey on its way to London, his son, Henry Beaufort, Bishop of +Lincoln, being allowed to conduct a service in the Abbey; and in the same +year Richard II. and Henry, Duke of Lancaster, lodged at St. Albans. On +arrival in London Richard II. was dethroned, and the Bishop of Carlisle, +who <a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 100]</span>took his side, was seized by order of the Duke of +Lancaster, soon to be known as Henry IV., and carried as a prisoner to +St. Albans; he was, however, afterwards pardoned by Henry. A dispute for +precedence between this Abbot and the Abbot of Westminster occurred. John +died in 1401.</p> +<p> +32. <b>William Heyworth</b> (1401-1420). This Abbot was promoted to the +see of Lichfield in 1420, died in 1446 or 1447, and was buried in +St. Alban's Abbey.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="illus_46" id="illus_46"></a> +<a href="./images/image46.jpg"> +<img src="images/image46_th.jpg" alt="JOHN OF WHEATHAMPSTEAD'S CHANTRY." /></a> +<span class="caption">JOHN OF WHEATHAMPSTEAD'S CHANTRY.</span> +</div> + +<p> +33. <b>John of Wheathampstead</b> (1420-1440 and 1451-1464). The Abbot's +surname was Bostock, and it is supposed, as on his mother's grave in +Wheathampstead Church a shield bearing the Heyworth arms is found, that +John was a kinsman of his predecessor. To increase the revenue he admitted +many gentlemen and ladies of high rank to the confraternity; this +admission was a mere honour, conferring indeed the right to vote in the +chapter, but not imposing any duties or monastic restrictions<a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 101]</span> +on those thus admitted. Among the names of those admitted in 1423 we +find those of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, and Jaqueline his wife, whom +he subsequently divorced; in 1431 his new wife, Eleanor, was +admitted. John procured by royal grant lands in various quarters, and +also, in order that he might secure himself against any charges which +might be made against him, a pardon for diverse offences, of none of which +was he in all probability guilty—treason, murder, rape, rebellion, +conspiracy, etc. A strange light is thrown by this upon monkish morals of +the day; one would have thought no abbot would ever have been supposed +possible of committing such offences. These were disturbed times, for the +King, Henry VI., was imbecile and various nobles were intriguing against +each other for power. The star of Humphrey of Gloucester, the Abbot's +friend, was setting, and other troubles threatened the nation, so Abbot +John resigned in 1440.</p> +<p> +34. <b>John Stokes</b> (1440-1451). This Abbot ruled for eleven years, and +then either died or resigned. During his rule Eleanor, Duchess of +Gloucester, was tried for witchcraft, was imprisoned in the Tower, and did +penance in the streets of London. Her husband died, or more probably was +murdered, in 1447, and was buried in the Abbey on the south side of St. +Alban's shrine.</p> +<p> +33. In 1451 Abbot John of Wheathampstead, though over eighty years of age, +was re-elected. Soon after his election he gave his church a "pair of +organs," surpassing all others in England in size, tone, and workmanship.</p> + +<p>In 1455 the Wars of the Roses began with the first battle of St. Albans +(May 23rd), fought to the east of the town. In this the White Rose party +were victorious; the King was taken prisoner and lodged for the night in +the Abbey. The victorious army plundered the town, but the Abbot by +sending out plenty of wine and food saved his monastery.</p> + +<p>In 1459 King Henry was again at the Abbey and spent Easter there, ordering +his best robe to be given to the Prior when he left.</p> + +<p>Another battle was fought, this time to the north of the town, on February +17th, 1461. Henry was at this time in the hands of the Yorkists and at +St. Albans. The Queen, having defeated and slain the Duke of York at +Wakefield, marched southward at the head of an undisciplined horde of +18,000 men—Scotch, <a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 102]</span>Irish, Welsh, and English—to rescue +her husband. The Earl of Warwick at first drove the Queen's troops out of +St. Peter's Street to Barnard's Heath with great slaughter, but, owing to +treachery on the part of one of the Yorkist leaders, the fortunes of the +day changed, and Margaret drove Warwick before her towards the town. He, +however, rallied his forces and retreated in good order to London, though +he had to leave Henry behind him. The royal party went to the Abbey, +where they were enthusiastically received by the monks, who chanted +thanksgivings for the victory; they were led to the high altar and to the +shrine of St. Alban. But the victorious troops, being little better than +barbarians, flushed with unexpected victory, committed fearful excesses in +the town, and even plundered the Abbey. Hitherto Abbot John had been a +strong partisan of the Lancastrians, but the treatment he received turned +him into a staunch Yorkist. Edward IV. when he came to the throne granted +the Abbot the right to hear and try all causes, even treason, with full +power of sentencing to death. The Abbots continued to exercise these +powers till 1533. In 1462 the Abbot presented a petition to the King, +setting forth the impoverished state of the Abbey; this led to further +powers being granted to the Abbot. Wheathampstead had been ordained in +1382 and, according to canon law, must have been twenty-five years of age, +so he must have been over a hundred and five when he died in 1463. He, as +we have seen (Chap. I.), made many changes for the worse in the fabric of +the church; the character of the work was partly due to the time in which +he lived, for the age of great architecture was over, and partly to lack +of funds.</p> +<p> +35. <b>William Alban</b> (1464-1476).</p> +<p> +36. <b>William of Wallingford</b> (1476-1484). This Abbot's name will be +remembered because the high altar screen was his work, and is generally +called Wallingford's screen. It is said that his management of the +revenues of the Abbey was prudent, and that he was energetic in defending +his rights; but it would seem that he was not equally energetic in +repressing irregularities within its walls. During the interregnum that +followed his tenure of office things went on from bad to worse, so that +the Archbishop sent a monition to the Abbey reciting a bull which had been +sent to him as legate. This bull directed the Archbishop to visit all the +larger monasteries in which he had reason to suspect that evil practices +prevailed, and the Archbishop threatens <a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 103]</span>to visit St. Albans +because he has heard of cases of simony, usury, lavish expenditure, and +immorality. He says unless within sixty days things are reduced to order, +not only in the monastery but also in the nunneries of Pré and Sopwell and +other cells, he will visit personally or by commission to inquire into +matters and set things in order. The Abbot died in 1484, but his successor +was not appointed until 1492.</p> +<p> +37. <b>Thomas Ramryge</b> (1492- ). No details of events during the rule +of this Abbot exist, nor is the date of his death known.</p> +<p> +38. <b>Thomas Wolsey</b> (1521-1529). This great cardinal was invested +with the temporalities on December 7th, 1521, and held the Abbey "in +commendam." There is no record of his ever having resided in the Abbey, +but he probably put a stop to the printing which had been carried on in +the Abbey from 1480 onwards. He also made a gift of plate to the Abbey. He +held the office of Abbot until his disgrace in 1529.</p> +<p> +39. <b>Robert Catton</b> (1530-1538). This Abbot was really appointed by +Henry VIII., but was nominally elected by the chapter. He had been Prior +of Norwich. The Abbey printing press was again in use in his time. He +seems to have been deprived during his lifetime, for what reason we cannot +say.</p> +<p> +40. <b>Robert Boreman of Stevenage</b> (1538-1539). This Abbot was a +nominee of the King, and was chosen by him because Henry knew that he +would be willing to surrender the Abbey. This he did on December 5th, +1539. It was part of the policy of Henry VIII. to make it appear that the +monasteries were <i>voluntarily</i> surrendered by the abbot and chapter, +and it was generally made worth their while to do so by a liberal +pension. In some cases the abbots refused, among them the last Abbot of +Glastonbury, who paid dearly for his refusal, as he was hanged on a hill +commanding a view of the possessions of the Abbey, which not being his to +part with he had refused to surrender, though, of course, the nominal +charge against him was not the real one. Abbot Boreman, however, made no +objection, and received a yearly pension of £266 13s. 4d., so was a rich +man for the rest of his days. Pensions of varying amounts were given to +his monks. Boreman and twenty of the monks were in receipt of them when +Mary came to the throne. Mary wished to revive the Abbey and put Boreman +over it, but did not live to carry out her intended plan.<a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 104]</span> +The monastic buildings very rapidly disappeared; the church became +parochial, and has been served by the following sixteen +rectors:</p> + +<table summary="Chronological list of rectors of the church"> +<tr><td align="left">George Wetherhall, appointed </td><td align="right">1553.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Archdeacon William East.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Archdeacon James Dugdale, </td><td align="right">1556.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Edward Edgeworth, </td><td align="right">1578.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Roger Williams, </td><td align="right">1582.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">John Brown.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Archdeacon Edward Carter, </td><td align="right">1662.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Archdeacon John Cole, </td><td align="right">1687.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Archdeacon John Cole (II), </td><td align="right">1713.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Benjamin Preedy, </td><td align="right">1754.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Joseph Spooner, </td><td align="right">1779.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">John Payler Nicholson, </td><td align="right">1796.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Henry Small, </td><td align="right">1817.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Henry J.B. Nicholson, </td><td align="right">1835.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Sir John C. Hawkins, Bart.,</td><td align="right">1866.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Archdeacon Walter John Lawrance,<a name="footref_12" id="footref_12" href="#footnote_12"><span class="fnanchor">12</span></a></td><td align="right">1868.</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>The Church of St. Albans was in the diocese of Lincoln until 1845, when it +was handed over to Rochester. In 1877 Parliament passed a bill for the +division of the populous diocese of Rochester into two parts; the northern +to be called the see of St. Albans, the southern to retain the name of +Rochester. The Right Rev. Dr. Claughton, then Bishop of Rochester, elected +to take the northern division of his old diocese and became Bishop of +St. Albans. He was succeeded in 1890 by John Wogan Festing, D.D., who died +in 1903.</p> + +<p>Both of these bishops are buried in the churchyard on the north side of +the nave. On Dr. Festing's death the Right Rev. Edgar Jacob, D.D., was +translated to St. Albans from the diocese of Newcastle, and was enthroned +in May, 1903.</p> + +<p>The Church of St. Albans, although legally a cathedral church, yet differs +in certain particulars from most of the other churches of this rank in +England. It is also used as a parish church, of which the Dean is +rector. He has the same powers, responsibilities, and duties as the rector +of any other parish. It is sometimes said that the nave is the parish, and +the part eastward of <a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 105]</span>the rood screen the cathedral church, +but it is not so. The Dean as rector has power over the whole, and +parishioners have right of access to every part of the building, just as +in any other parish church; and the Dean as their rector can be called +upon to baptize, marry, visit, and bury the people under his charge. +Churchwardens are also appointed and have their statutory rights. There +are some honorary canons, but as yet no "canons residentiary," nor are +there "priests vicars" (or "minor canons"), lay vicars, or choristers on +the foundation. The choir is a voluntary one, the clergy under the Dean +are curates.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;"> +<a name="illus_47" id="illus_47"></a> +<img src="images/image47.png" alt="OLD FLOOR TILE." /> +</div> + +<p>The two parts of the church that are ordinarily in use are the Lady +Chapel, where morning and evening prayer is said daily on week-days, and +the nave, which is used for the Sunday services. There is at present no +high altar in place under the great screen, but one will probably be +placed there as soon as the final touches are put by Mr. Gilbert to the +carved work of the reredos. The choir proper is not, however, capable of +holding a large congregation. It was, of course, originally intended to +hold the monks only. The part eastward of the stalls might on special +occasions, such as the enthronement of a bishop, the installation of a +dean, be temporarily fitted with chairs, but it is not likely that any +permanent seats will be placed here, since as a matter of fact the nave +and Lady Chapel answer all ordinary requirements.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 106]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="illus_48" id="illus_48"></a> +<a href="./images/image48.jpg"> +<img src="images/image48_th.jpg" alt="THE GREAT GATE." /></a> +<span class="caption">THE GREAT GATE.</span> +</div> + +<h2><a name="chapter_5" id="chapter_5"></a>CHAPTER V.<br /> +<span class="subtitle">THE NEIGHBOURHOOD.</span></h2> + +<p><b>The Great Gatehouse</b>.—In the days of its prosperity the Abbey was +surrounded by a wall within which, as was usually the case, were placed +all the buildings that were necessary for monastic life: cloister, +dormitory, refectory, kitchen, chapter-house, infirmary, guest-house, +stables, dovecote, granary, garden, orchard, vineyard, lodgings for the +abbot, prior, cellarer, cook, and servants, fish-house, fish-ponds, as +well as cemeteries for dead brethren. A number of gatehouses gave access +to this inclosure: the Great Gate, which alone remains standing; the +Waxhouse Gate, where the tapers used for burning before the shrines were +made; the Water-gate, St. Germain's gate, and others. The chief of these +was the Great Gate to the west of the Abbey Church. It was built in the +time of Thomas de la Mare about 1365, on the site of a previously existing +gatehouse which had been destroyed by a violent gale a few years +earlier. It was not only a gateway, but a prison wherein offending monks, +and also <a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 107]</span>laymen of the town, over which the Abbot had civic +jurisdiction, were imprisoned. The Gatehouse was stormed by rioters in the +time of Wat Tyler's rebellion, the monks in their terror giving wine and +beer to their assailants, but news arriving of Wat Tyler's death, the +rioters dispersed; the ringleaders were tried and condemned to death, +among them John Ball, who, with his seventeen condemned companions, passed +the time between their trial and execution in the dungeons beneath the +Gatehouse. In 1480 a printing press was set up in this gatehouse; after +the dissolution it was used as the borough gaol. During the Napoleonic +wars some French prisoners were confined within the walls. In 1868 the +Gatehouse was found too small for use as a gaol, and a new prison was +built near the Midland Station. The Gatehouse was bought by the governors +of the grammar school, and in 1870 the school was removed from the Lady +Chapel to the Gatehouse. There are dungeons beneath the level of the +roadway; over the archway is the large room where the sessions used to be +held, with other rooms on either side. In this building some old +chimney-pieces may still be seen. Although the present foundation dates +from the reign of Edward VI., yet a school had existed in St. Albans from +very early time. Some think it was founded by Ulsinus. Be this as it may, +it is certain that Geoffrey de Gorham, who was afterwards Abbot +(1119-1146), first came to England during the time of Richard of Albini +(the fifteenth Abbot), with a view of being master of the school. In 1195 +we read that the school had more scholars than any other in England. The +school in these early days stood to the north of the Great Gate on the +other side of the street that runs down the hill on the north side of the +triangular graveyard known as Romelands, where a Protestant martyr, one +George Tankerfield, a cook, born in York, but living in London, was burnt +on August 26th, 1555, during the reign of Mary I.</p> + +<p><b>Sopwell Nunnery.</b>—There are a few remains of Sopwell Nunnery in a +field near the river Ver, to the south-east of the city. They may be +reached by taking the first turning to the right hand after crossing the +bridge on the way from the city down Holywell Hill. This nunnery was +founded by Geoffrey of Gorham, sixteenth Abbot, about the middle of the +twelfth century. Two women, pious and ascetic, had taken up their abode +on this spot in a hut which they built for themselves, and Geoffrey +determined to build them a more permanent dwelling, and make<a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 108]</span> +them the nucleus of a religious house. They accepted the Benedictine +Rule, and gradually the nunnery increased in size, and many ladies of high +birth took the veil here. One of the abbesses wrote the "Boke of +St. Albans," not, as might be imagined, an account of the saint or of the +religious house, but a treatise on hawking, hunting, and fishing. It was +printed in 1483 at the St. Albans printing press. When the nunnery was +dissolved, Sir Richard Lee, to whom the Abbey lands were granted, turned +it into a dwelling-house for himself. The ruins consist of ivy-clad walls +of brick and flint, pierced by square-headed windows, but containing few +interesting features.</p> + +<p>The name is said to have been derived from the fact that the two women +mentioned above soaked or sopped their dry bread in water drawn from the +Holy Well or some well in the immediate neighbourhood of their hut.</p> + +<p><b>St. Peter's Church</b>.—This church, standing at no great distance +from the cathedral, may be reached by taking the footway called the +Cloisters, crossing High Street, passing between the Clock Tower and the +picturesque and ancient inn, the Fleur de Lys, and through the quaint +street of gabled houses known as French Row, into St. Peter's Street.</p> + +<p>The church was originally built about 948 A.D., by Ulsinus, the sixth +Abbot of St. Albans, but none of his work remains. It seems to have been +almost entirely rebuilt at the end of the fifteenth century, and most of +it is Perpendicular in character. It has a central tower rebuilt about a +hundred years ago, and until that time had a transept. There is a +clerestory on either side of the nave. The chancel and the west end with +its circular window show signs of Lord Grimthorpe's style of restoration. +The tower contains a fine peal of ten bells. In the windows of the south +aisle is some richly coloured modern Belgian glass by Capronnier; in the +windows of the north aisle are some fragments of fourteenth or fifteenth +century glass, including the arms of Edmund, the fifth son of Edward III., +from whom in the male line Edward IV. was descended, though he also traced +his descent and his claim to the throne from Lionel, the third son, +through his daughter Philippa.</p> + +<p>In the churchyard, which is of considerable extent, many of those who fell +in the two battles of St. Albans were buried.</p> + +<p><b>St. Michael's Church</b>.—St. Michael's Church is further from the +cathedral than St. Peter's. To reach it one must go<a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 109]</span> +westward from the Clock Tower, along High Street and its +continuations, down the hill past Romelands, where, as we have seen, +George Tankerfield, condemned by Bishop Bonner as a Protestant heretic, +was burnt at the stake. At last a bridge over the Ver is reached, and, +turning round to the left after crossing it, we see St. Michael's Church +before us. It has within the last ten years lost its Saxon tower, a new +one with no pretention to beauty, pierced by two pentagonal windows in the +third stage, having been built on a slightly different foundation. It +stands within the area once inclosed by the walls of Verulamium, and Sir +Gilbert Scott conjectured that it was originally the Basilica of the Roman +city altered for Christian worship; but probably, though it may stand on +the same site, it is of more recent date, though still of great age. Like +the cathedral, its walls are built of Roman brick and flint. The plan is +irregular: there is a nave and chancel, a large south aisle, or rather +chantry, the eastern gable of which is of half-timber construction, below +which are two tall round-headed windows far apart, with a small circular +opening between them; the western gable has an opening with louvre +boards. The tower projects from the north aisle, its western wall being +flush with the west end of the nave; on the outside in the south wall of +<a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 110]</span>the chancel is a canopied niche over a flat slab a few +inches above the level of the ground. The south door, within a porch, has +a pointed top beneath a wide, round-headed arch springing from +imposts. The arcading of the nave was formed by cutting arches through +what probably were at one time the outside walls of the church; two of +these on the south side open into the chapel. The carved oak pulpit of +early seventeenth-century work, with its sounding-board and iron frame for +the hour-glass, demands attention; but the chief attraction of the church +for many is the alabaster statue of Francis Bacon, which is placed in a +niche in the north wall of the chancel. He wished to be buried in this +church, as his mother was already buried there, and moreover it was the +parish church of his house at Gorhambury, and the only Christian church +within the walls of ancient Verulam, from which he took one of his titles.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 265px;"> +<a name="illus_49" id="illus_49"></a> +<a href="./images/image49.jpg"> +<img src="images/image49_th.jpg" alt='MONUMENT OF LORD BACON. "Sic sedebat."' /></a> +<span class="caption">MONUMENT OF LORD BACON. "Sic sedebat."</span> +</div> + + +<p><b>St. Stephen's Church.</b>—There are two ways of getting to this +church: either by following the road that runs south from St. Michael's, +and after reaching the top of the hill turning sharply to the left; or by +going from the centre of the city down Holywell Hill and straight on, past +the London and North-Western Railway Station, up St. Stephen's Hill. The +church spire is a conspicuous landmark. The churchyard is exceedingly +pretty, and the church most interesting. It was originally built in the +tenth century by Abbot Ulsinus, rebuilt in the time of Henry I., restored +in the fifteenth, and again by Sir Gilbert Scott in the nineteenth +century. The south porch is of timber; under it is a square-headed +doorway; to the east of it is a chapel once called "the Leper's Chapel," +but probably a chantry, now used as a vestry. There is a small aisle on +the south side. The spire is a broach and stands at the west end. On the +north side of the nave is a wide, blocked-up, round-headed arch; through +the blocking wall a pointed doorway was cut, but this is also now blocked +up. There is a door of Perpendicular style, with a square-headed label +terminated by heads much weathered, in the west wall of the tower. The +walls of this church are of the usual materials, flint and Roman brick.</p> + +<p>The lectern is of brass, and bears round its foot the inscription +"Georgius Creichtoun Episcopus Dunkeldensis." There were two Scotch +bishops of this name; both lived in the sixteenth century. How the lectern +reached St. Albans no one knows for certain, but it may possibly have been +part of the plunder <a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 111]</span>carried off by Sir Richard Lee from +Scotland. It was hidden for safety in a grave at the time of the civil +wars, but was found again in 1748 when the vault was opened.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 384px;"> +<a name="illus_50" id="illus_50"></a> +<a href="./images/image50.jpg"> +<img src="images/image50_th.jpg" alt='THE OLD ROUND HOUSE, "THE FIGHTING COCKS."' /></a> +<span class="caption">THE OLD ROUND HOUSE, "THE FIGHTING COCKS."</span> +</div> + +<p><b>The Clock Tower.</b>—This is a most conspicuous object in the city, +standing near the market-place, almost due north of the Lady Chapel. It +was built at the beginning of the fifteenth <a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 112]</span>century in +order that the curfew bell might be hung in it. This had been cast some +seventy years before the building of the tower, and had hung in the +central tower of the Abbey Church; it weighs about a ton. It bears the +inscription: "Missi de coelis, habeo nomen Gabrielis." The tower was +restored under the direction of Sir Gilbert Scott in 1865, and in the +process has lost most of the interest it possessed.</p> + +<p><b>The Old Round House.</b>—This curious old house, also known as "The +Fighting Cocks," stands near the river at the bottom of the roadway that +leads down from the town through the Great Gate, and probably occupies the +position of the Abbey gate that was known as St. Germain's Gate. There is +little doubt that the foundations of this house date back to the time of +the monastery, and may have been the foundations of the gateway. The +cellars, it is said, appear to have an opening into some subterranean +way. The name of "Fighting Cocks" no doubt indicates that after the +dissolution of the monastery a cockpit existed here. It is said that it +was at St. Germain's Gatehouse that the monks kept their fishing tackle, +rods and nets. A claim is made for this building, that it is the oldest +inhabited house in England, a claim that many other buildings may well +dispute.</p> + + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 113]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="index" id="index"></a>INDEX</h2> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Abbots, chronological account of, <a href="#page_82">82</a>-<a href="#page_103">103</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Ælfric, Abbot, <a href="#page_84">84</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Ælfric II., Abbot, <a href="#page_84">84</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Aisles of nave, interior, south, <a href="#page_44">44</a>,</span> +<span class="i4">north, <a href="#page_46">46</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">exterior, south, <a href="#page_26">26</a>,</span> +<span class="i4">north, <a href="#page_31">31</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">of choir (south), <a href="#page_48">48</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Alban, St., <a href="#page_4">4</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">site of his martyrdom, <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_6">6</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Altarpiece, <a href="#page_57">57</a>,</span> +<span class="i2">(old) <a href="#page_68">68</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Amphibalus, St., <a href="#page_5">5</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">shrine of, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_63">63</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Andrew's, St., Church, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Bacon, Lord, his monument, <a href="#page_110">110</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Baluster shafts, Saxon, <a href="#page_50">50</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Battles of St. Albans, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Bells, <a href="#page_78">78</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Berkhampstead, John of, Abbot, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Bishops of St. Albans, <a href="#page_104">104</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Bishop's Throne, <a href="#page_53">53</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Boreman, Robert, last Abbot, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Bricks, Roman, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_24">24</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Catton, Robert, Abbot, <a href="#page_103">103</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Ceiling of choir and lantern, <a href="#page_53">53</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Chapels (apsidal) of transept (now destroyed), <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Choir (exterior), <a href="#page_28">28</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">ritual, <a href="#page_53">53</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Christina, Prioress of Markyate, <a href="#page_49">49</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Church bought by the town, <a href="#page_16">16</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Claughton, Bishop, <a href="#page_18">18</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Clerestory, nave, <a href="#page_42">42</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Clock Tower of the town, <a href="#page_111">111</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Cloister, site of, <a href="#page_26">26</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">"Cloisters, The," <a href="#page_31">31</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">D'Aubeny, Richard, Abbot, <a href="#page_87">87</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Dedication of church, <a href="#page_7">7</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">De la Mare, Thomas, Abbot, <a href="#page_98">98</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">De la Moote, John, Abbot, <a href="#page_99">99</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">De Marinis, John, Abbot, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Dimensions of the Cathedral, <a href="#page_115">115</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Door, Abbot's, <a href="#page_26">26</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Doors, from the western entrance, <a href="#page_68">68</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Eadfrith, Abbot, <a href="#page_83">83</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Eadmer, Abbot, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_84">84</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Eadric, Abbot, <a href="#page_82">82</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Ealdred, Abbot, <a href="#page_84">84</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Eversden, Hugh of, Abbot, <a href="#page_97">97</a>(<i>v.</i> Hugh).</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Fall of piers in 1323, <a href="#page_13">13</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Floor of the church, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_36">36</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Font, <a href="#page_46">46</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Frescoes in the nave, <a href="#page_40">40</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">in the choir, <a href="#page_53">53</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Frithric, Abbot, <a href="#page_85">85</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Gatehouse, The Great, <a href="#page_106">106</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Geoffrey of Gorham, Abbot, <a href="#page_88">88</a>,<a href="#page_107">107</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Germanus, Bishop of Auxerre, <a href="#page_6">6</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Gloucester, Humphrey, Duke of, <a href="#page_62">62</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">his monument, <a href="#page_76">76</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Gorham, Abbots, Geoffrey of, <a href="#page_88">88</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">Robert of, <a href="#page_89">89</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Grammar School, <a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Henry VI., King, <a href="#page_101">101</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Hertford, John of, Abbot, <a href="#page_93">93</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Heyworth, William, Abbot, <a href="#page_100">100</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Hugh of Eversden, Abbot, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_44">44</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">John de Cella, Abbot, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">John de Marinis, Abbot, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">John of Hertford, Abbot, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">John of Wheathampstead, Abbot, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Lady Chapel, the, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>, <a href="#page_68">68</a>-<a href="#page_72">72</a>.</span> +<a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 114]</span> +<span class="i0">Length of the building, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Leofric, Abbot, <a href="#page_85">85</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Leofstan, Abbot, <a href="#page_85">85</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Mandeville, Sir John, <a href="#page_37">37</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Markyate, Benedictine cell, <a href="#page_49">49</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Mentmore, Michael of, Abbot, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Monastery (Benedictine), founded, <a href="#page_6">6</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">history of, <a href="#page_81">81</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Nave, interior, <a href="#page_36">36</a>-<a href="#page_48">48</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Norton, John of, Abbot, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Nunnery, Sopwell, <a href="#page_107">107</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Organ, the, <a href="#page_44">44</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Paul of Caen, Abbot, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_24">24</a>, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_86">86</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Plan of Norman church, <a href="#page_9">9</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Porches (thirteenth century), of west front, <a href="#page_10">10</a>-<a href="#page_12">12</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Presbytery, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Pulpit in nave, <a href="#page_44">44</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">in choir, <a href="#page_61">61</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Ramryge, Thomas, Abbot, <a href="#page_58">58</a>-<a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">his chantry, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Randulf, Abbot, <a href="#page_89">89</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Rectors of St. Albans, <a href="#page_104">104</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Retro-choir, <a href="#page_63">63</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Richard of Wallingford, Abbot, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Robert of Gorham, Abbot, <a href="#page_89">89</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Roger the Hermit, <a href="#page_49">49</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Rood-screen, <a href="#page_42">42</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Roof restored, <a href="#page_18">18</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Round House, <a href="#page_112">112</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Saint's Chapel, the, <a href="#page_72">72</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">St. Andrew's Church, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">St. Michael's Church, <a href="#page_108">108</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">St. Peter's Church, <a href="#page_108">108</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">St. Stephen's Church, <a href="#page_110">110</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Shrine of St. Alban, <a href="#page_72">72</a>-<a href="#page_75">75</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Sigar, hermit, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_50">50</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Slype, the, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Sopwell Nunnery, <a href="#page_107">107</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Stokes, John, Abbot, <a href="#page_101">101</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Stoup (north aisle of nave), <a href="#page_46">46</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">in south choir aisle, <a href="#page_61">61</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Symeon, Abbot, <a href="#page_91">91</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Transept (exterior), <a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">(interior), <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Triforium, nave, <a href="#page_41">41</a>, <a href="#page_42">42</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Tower, central, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_79">79</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">interior, <a href="#page_53">53</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Towers, western, <a href="#page_8">8</a>, <a href="#page_9">9</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Trumpington, William of, Abbot, <a href="#page_93">93</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Verulamium, <a href="#page_4">4</a>, <a href="#page_7">7</a>;</span> +<span class="i2">Synod held at, <a href="#page_6">6</a>.</span> +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Wallingford, Richard of, Abbot, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Wallingford screen, <a href="#page_21">21</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>-<a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Wallingford, William of, Abbot, <a href="#page_102">102</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Waring, Abbot, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_91">91</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Watching Loft, <a href="#page_66">66</a>, <a href="#page_68">68</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Wax-house, <a href="#page_29">29</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Weatherall, G., first rector, <a href="#page_16">16</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">West front, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Wheathampstead, John of, Abbot, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>;</span> +<span class="i2"> his chantry, <a href="#page_57">57</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">William of Trumpington, Abbot, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">William of Wallingford, Abbot, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Willigod, Abbot, <a href="#page_82">82</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Windows in transept, <a href="#page_19">19</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Wolsey, Thomas, Abbot, <a href="#page_103">103</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Wulnoth, Abbot, <a href="#page_83">83</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Wulsig, Abbot, <a href="#page_82">82</a>.</span> +<span class="i0">Wulsin, Abbot, <a href="#page_84">84</a>.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 115]</span></p> +<h2><a name="dimensions" id="dimensions"></a>DIMENSIONS OF THE CATHEDRAL.<a name="footref_13" id="footref_13" href="#footnote_13"><span class="fnanchor">13</span></a></h2> + +<table summary="Dimensions" width="75%"> +<tr><td align="left">Total</td><td align="left">length,</td><td align="left">external</td><td align="left">550 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">internal</td><td align="left">520 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Length</td><td align="left" colspan="2">of high roofs</td><td align="left">425 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left" colspan="2">of nave from west door to screen</td><td align="left">205 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left" colspan="2">of choir and presbytery</td><td align="left">169 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left" colspan="2">of Lady Chapel</td><td align="left">57 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left" colspan="2">of transept, interior</td><td align="left">177 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Width</td><td align="left">of nave</td><td align="left">with aisles</td><td align="left">75 ft. 4 in.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">without aisles, between piers</td><td align="left">29 ft. 6 in. to 31 ft. 6 in.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left" colspan="2">of presbytery</td><td align="left">75 ft. to 78 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left" colspan="2">of west front, exterior</td><td align="left">105 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left" colspan="2">of transept, interior</td><td align="left">32 ft. to 33 ft. 6 in.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">exterior</td><td align="left">54 ft. 4 in.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left" colspan="2">of Lady Chapel, interior</td><td align="left">24 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="3">Diameter of tower piers, east and west</td><td align="left">16 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="3">Distance between tower piers each way</td><td align="left">24 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Height</td><td align="left">of tower</td><td align="left">piers</td><td align="left">43 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">arches</td><td align="left">55 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">of tower</td><td align="left">144 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Width</td><td align="left">of tower,</td><td align="left">east and west, exterior</td><td align="left">47 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">north and south, exterior</td><td align="left">45 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Height</td><td align="left" colspan="2">of nave ceiling (from floor)</td><td align="left">66 ft. 4 in.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left" colspan="2">of ridge of high roofs</td><td align="left">96 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left" colspan="2">of Lady Chapel vault</td><td align="left">33 ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="3">Total internal area (about)</td><td align="left">39,240 sq. ft.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="3">Height of floor above mean sea-level</td><td align="left">340 ft.</td></tr> +</table> + +<hr /> + +<p><a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a><span class="pagenum">[Pg 116]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="illus_51" id="illus_51"></a> +<a href="./images/image51.png"> +<img src="images/image51_th.png" alt="GROUND-PLAN OF ST. ALBANS CATHEDRAL." /></a> +<span class="caption">GROUND-PLAN OF ST. ALBANS CATHEDRAL.</span> +</div> +<hr /> + +<h2>FOOTNOTES</h2> + + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="footnote_1" id="footnote_1"></a><a href="#footref_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> It must be remembered that June 22 in the year 303 A.D. would +be, as now, close to the longest day, as the alteration of the calendar +known as the new style simply made the equinox occur on the same day of +the month as in 325 A.D.</p> + +<p><a href="#footref_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a><a name="footnote_2" id="footnote_2"></a>A payment known as Peter's Pence had first been levied by the +King of the West Saxons in 727, and was a tax of one penny on each family +that owned lands producing thirty pence per annum; its object was the +support of a Saxon College at Rome. Offa now induced the Pope to allow the +pence so collected from his kingdom to be paid to the Abbey of St. Alban +instead of the Saxon College at Rome. The payment was called Peter's Pence +because it was paid on August 1st (the day dedicated to <i>St. Peter ad +Vincula</i>), the day on which the relics of St. Alban had been +discovered.</p> + +<p><a href="#footref_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a><a name="footnote_3" id="footnote_3"></a>The chief argument against the belief that western towers +existed at St. Albans is that no documentary record of them is found. On +the other hand it may be said that, whether the towers were built or not +at the same time as the rest of the church, it is far more likely that +John de Cella and William of Trumpington would have lengthened the church +eastward than westward, when we find so many instances of eastward +extensions during the thirteenth century, and of some before the twelfth +century closed. The plan given in the text, assuming the existence of +Norman towers, is that adopted by Sir Gilbert Scott, who had the +opportunity of examining the foundations when restoring the church; his +opinion was that the foundations were of Norman date. Of one thing we may +be certain, that if finished western towers ever existed, they were of +Norman date. For none were carried to completion by William of +Trumpington.</p> + +<p><a href="#footref_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a><a name="footnote_4" id="footnote_4"></a>Prior's "History of Gothic Art in England," p. 63. +</p> + +<p><a href="#footref_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a><a name="footnote_5" id="footnote_5"></a>Sir Gilbert Scott was of the opinion that the south porch was +also John de Cella's work. </p> + +<p><a href="#footref_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a><a name="footnote_6" id="footnote_6"></a>This was the original Benedictine arrangement, which is said +to remain in this church and Westminster Abbey only. </p> + +<p><a href="#footref_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a><a name="footnote_7" id="footnote_7"></a>Designed by Mr. J.O. Scott; carved by Mr. Forsyth, of +Hampstead. </p> + +<p><a href="#footref_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a><a name="footnote_8" id="footnote_8"></a>Lord Aldenham's words in describing his scheme. +</p> + +<p><a href="#footref_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a><a name="footnote_9" id="footnote_9"></a>Sir Gilbert Scott's Report on the Lady Chapel, 1875. +</p> + +<p><a href="#footref_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a><a name="footnote_10" id="footnote_10"></a>The "Gesta Abbatum" reverses the order of the two Abbots, +Ælfric and Leofric, but this is probably wrong. It is recorded that +Leofric had the offer of the archbishopric, but declined, saying that his +brother Ælfric was far more fit for the post than he, and it is supposed +that when Ælfric became Archbishop in 995, Leofric succeeded him as +Abbot.</p> + +<p><a href="#footref_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a><a name="footnote_11" id="footnote_11"></a>The church remained in this diocese until 1845, when it was +handed over to Rochester, although, as will be seen afterwards, the Abbey +was made independent of the Bishop of Lincoln's jurisdiction.</p> + +<p><a href="#footref_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a><a name="footnote_12" id="footnote_12"></a>Dean since July, 1900. +</p> + +<p><a href="#footref_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a><a name="footnote_13" id="footnote_13"></a>These are the dimensions given by Lord Grimthorpe; the +altitudes, except when otherwise stated, are measured from the level of +the floor at the west doorways. </p> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BELL'S CATHEDRALS: THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF SAINT ALBANS***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 19494-h.txt or 19494-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/4/9/19494">http://www.gutenberg.org/1/9/4/9/19494</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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