diff options
| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:06:45 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:06:45 -0700 |
| commit | 37d889a6df500fab15fbeb7e8522f0d51f5f8c7a (patch) | |
| tree | ea0c4152e357609a680a947315dd9fb9e7713de5 | |
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 3 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-8.txt | 3498 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-8.zip | bin | 0 -> 62196 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h.zip | bin | 0 -> 4353031 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/19882-h.htm | 5305 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/corsica.png | bin | 0 -> 3544 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map1.png | bin | 0 -> 365784 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map1thumb.png | bin | 0 -> 63343 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map2.png | bin | 0 -> 704760 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map2bw.png | bin | 0 -> 256874 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map2thumb.png | bin | 0 -> 49709 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map3.png | bin | 0 -> 510908 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map3thumb.png | bin | 0 -> 61185 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map4.png | bin | 0 -> 756234 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map4bw.png | bin | 0 -> 170578 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map4thumb.png | bin | 0 -> 72680 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map5.png | bin | 0 -> 403884 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map5bw.png | bin | 0 -> 228992 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map5thumb.png | bin | 0 -> 72427 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map6.png | bin | 0 -> 271691 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map6bw.png | bin | 0 -> 228968 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882-h/images/map6thumb.png | bin | 0 -> 51355 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882.txt | 3500 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 19882.zip | bin | 0 -> 62153 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 |
26 files changed, 12319 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/19882-8.txt b/19882-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c1bbdb3 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3498 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Itinerary through Corsica, by Charles Bertram +Black + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Itinerary through Corsica + by its Rail, Carriage & Forest Roads + + +Author: Charles Bertram Black + + + +Release Date: November 20, 2006 [eBook #19882] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARY THROUGH CORSICA*** + + +E-text prepared by Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso, and the Project Gutenberg +Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/) from page +images generously made available by the Bibliothèque nationale de France +(BnF/Gallica) (http://gallica.bnf.fr/) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations and maps. + See 19882-h.htm or 19882-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/8/8/19882/19882-h/19882-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/8/8/19882/19882-h.zip) + + + Images of the original pages are available through + La Bibliothèque nationale de France. See + http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1034792 + + +Transcriber's note: + + The printed book carried two kinds of headnote: keyword and + mileage. + + "Keyword" headers, noting the places and subjects mentioned + on the page, have been placed before the most appropriate + paragraph. + + Each itinerary gives the "miles from" {starting point} and + "miles to" {ending point}, with the numbers themselves printed + in the left and right corners of each paragraph. For this + e-text the numbers are shown in braces before the beginning + of each paragraph; the place names are given at the beginning + of the itinerary, and repeated as needed. Paragraphs + describing side exursions do not have mileage information. + + Additional transcriber's notes are at the end of the book. + + + + + +CORSICA. + +[Map: +Sketch Map of the Riviera and Corsica] + + + * * * * * + + +New Editions of Guide-Books for +France, Belgium, Spain, Portugal +and the Channel Islands. + +Copiously Illustrated with Maps and Plans. + + +NORTH-FRANCE--From the North Sea to the Loire, exclusive of Paris, and + from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine. 19 Maps and 21 Plans 7/6 + +SOUTH-FRANCE--From the Loire to the Mediterranean, and from the Bay of + Biscay to the rivers Arno and Po. The island of Corsica. 40 Maps and + 27 Plans 7/6 + +_Published also in separate Parts._ + +North-France, WEST-HALF, or NORMANDY, BRITTANY and TOURAINE. 14 Maps + and 16 Plans. Eighth Edition 5/ + +NORMANDY: Its CASTLES and CHURCHES. Second Edition. 5 Maps and 9 Plans + 2/6 + +North-France, EAST-HALF, or PICARDY, CHAMPAGNE, LORRAINE, ALSACE and + part of BURGUNDY. 5 Plans and 5 Maps. Third Edition 2/6 + +South-France, WEST-HALF. The SUMMER RESORTS in the PYRENEES; LUCHON, + BIGORRE, BARÈGES, etc.; the WINTER RESORTS of PAU, ARCACHON, BIARRITZ, + ST. JEAN-DE-LUZ, VERNET, AMÉLIE-LES-BAINS and MALAGA, and the + CLARET-WINE VINEYARDS in MEDOC. 17 Maps and 4 Plans. Fourth Edition + 2/6 + +South-France, EAST-HALF, or the VALLEYS of the WALDENSES, of the + RHÔNE, the DURANCE and the UPPER LOIRE; the Baths of VICHY, + AIX-LES-BAINS, ROYAT, VALS, MONT-DORE, BOURBOULE, BOURBON-LANCY, + ACQUI, LUCCA, VALDIERI, etc.; the VOLCANIC REGION OF ARDÈCHE; the + MOUNTAIN-PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY; and the RIVIERA of the + MEDITERRANEAN from MARSEILLES to LEGHORN. 20 Plans and 21 Maps. + Fourth Edition 5/ + +THE RIVIERA, or the MEDITERRANEAN from MARSEILLES to LEGHORN, + including the inland towns of PISA, LUCCA, CARRARA and FLORENCE, + and Excursions into the MARITIME ALPS. Fourth Edition. 10 Plans and + 13 Maps 2/6 + +CORSICA, its Rail, Carriage and Forest Roads, with 6 Maps from the + latest authorities. Second Edition 1/ + +BELGIUM, its CHURCHES, CHIMES and BATTLEFIELDS. 9 Plans and 4 Maps + 2/6 + +NORTH-FRANCE (East-Half) and BELGIUM in One Volume, including a + part of HOLLAND. Convenient for those going to Aix-la-Chapelle, Spa, + Vittel, Contrexéville, or any of the Bathing Stations on the North Sea + 5/ + +HANDBOOK for the CAR-TOURIST in the pleasant Islands of JERSEY, + GUERNSEY and ALDERNEY. Maps and Plans. Second Edition 1/ + +SPAIN and PORTUGAL. (O'SHEA.) Seventh Edition. Edited by JOHN LOMAS. + Crown 8vo. Maps and Plans 15/ + + +From "Scotsman," June 2, 1884. + +_"C. B. Black's Guide-books have a character of their own; and that +character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally +acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in which +only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent observer of +Continental life could afford to do. He does not 'get up' the places as +a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity of the case, +compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common mistakes, and to +supply information on minute points of much interest apt to be +overlooked by the hurried observer."_ + + + + * * * * * + + + +ITINERARY THROUGH CORSICA + +by Its Rail, Carriage & Forest Roads + +by + +C. B. BLACK + +Illustrated by Five Maps and One Plan + + + + + + + +[Illustration: Moor's Head] + + + +Edinburgh +Adam and Charles Black +1888 + + + + +CONTENTS: CORSICA. + + [Transcriber's Note: + The four pages consisting of the Contents and List of Illustrations + appeared twice in the original text, first as pgs. v-viii, then as + pgs. xv-xviii. (The intervening pages are absent.) The text and layout + are identical except that the first group is headed "Contents", the + second "Corsica." The repeated text has been omitted here.] + + Page + +Corsica. --Position --Extent --Population --Highest Mountains + --Forests --Vegetation --Aspect --Climate --Steamboats 1 + +Ajaccio. --Hotels --Cabs --Napoleon's Birthplace --Memorial + Chapel --Chapel of San Antonio --Chapelle Greco --Fontaine du + Salario --Family Sepulchral Chapels --Climate --Fair of + St. Pancras --Water Carriers --Curiosities 3 + +Ajaccio to Bastia by Corté. --This road traverses the centre + of the island diagonally, exhibits every characteristic of + Corsica, crosses the longest rivers, passes through one of the + greatest forests and by some of the highest mountains, and + connects the three principal towns. Rail between Corté and + Bastia 7 + + From Vivario, p. 8, a road leads to the mineral water + establishment of Pietrapola. From Corté, p. 8, the ascent is + made of Mt. Rotondo. From the Ponte Francardo, p. 9, the most + important of the Forest roads extends S.W. to Porto by + Albertacce and Evisa. From Albertacce the ascent is made of + Mt. Cinto. + + The great highway traversing the island from Prunete to Calvi + passes through Ponte alla Leccia, p. 9. From Bastia, p. 10, + are trains or diligences to every part of the east coast, and + steamers to Leghorn, Genoa, Nice and Marseilles. + +Bastia to Rogliano and Morsaglia, skirting the east coast of + the long peninsula called Cap Corse. This road follows more or + less the level of the sea till it reaches Macinaggio, whence + it ascends to Morsaglia. The highway on the western side of + Cap Corse is cut along the flanks of the mountains, generally + at a considerable height above the sea 11 + +Bastia to Calvi by St. Florent and the Ile Rousse 14 + +Calvi to Ajaccio, by Galeria, Porto and Sagona. From Galeria + and Porto great Forest roads penetrate into the interior 16 + +GALERIA to the FORESTS of FILOSORMA. --Tourists should not + explore any of the great Forest roads without being provided + with letters to the dwellers in the maisons forestières and in + those of the Cantonniers; see p. 41 and map, p. 20 16 + +PORTO to the PONTE FRANCARDO. --The most important of all the + Forest roads. It passes through Evisa and by several good + "maisons forestières." From the Col Vergio is seen Mt. + Tafanato, with its natural tunnel, and from Albertacce is + commenced the ascent of Mt. Cinto. Several mule-paths ramify + from this forest road, the most important being to Lake Nino + and Corté, and to Asco: whence Mt. Cinto is also ascended. The + most famous part of the road itself is the Scala di Santa + Regina 18 + +Calvi to Corté or to BASTIA by PONTE ALLA LECCIA. --This road + traverses a most picturesque country, and the region of the + finest olive trees in the island 20 + +BELGODERE to the FOREST of TARTAGINE. --This forest contains few + old trees, and is not of easy access 21 + +Ajaccio to Evisa, VICO and the BATHS of GUAGNO 22 + +Ajaccio to Sartène, by CAURO, APA, OLMETO and PROPRIANO. See + S.W. end of general map 23 + +CAURO to BASTELICA. --Bastelica is the common name of a group of + hamlets, in one of which Sampiero was born. From this the + ascent is made of Mt. Renoso 24 + +AJACCIO and APA to ZICAVO and the BATHS of GUITERA, by + Santa-Maria-Siché, Frasseto and Zecavo. S. Maria-Siché is the + birthplace of the fair and gentle Vanina. From Zicavo the + ascent is made of Mt. Incudine; whence is beheld the finest + view in Corsica. See maps on fly-leaf and fronting p. 27 24 + +PROPRIANO to SOLENZARA, from the S.W. to the S.E. of the island. + This Route Forestière is better treated on p. 36, as Solenzara + to Sartène 26 + +Sartène to Corté by Vivario. --This is the great central + highway, of which the wildest and most difficult part is given + on map, p. 27. It leads to some fine forests, of which the + best is the Verde forest. At the most desolate portion are + tolerably comfortable maisons forestières. Vehicles should be + hired either at Sartène or Vivario, 20 to 25 frs. per day 27 + +GHISONI to GHISONACCIA, by the route forestière, extending from + the central main road to the Ghisonaccia railway station on + the east coast. The most dangerous part of the road is the + "Passage" Inzecca. See map, p. 27 29 + +SARTÈNE to BONIFACIO 30 + +Bonifacio to Bastia by the fertile plains and insalubrious + lakes of the east coast 31 + +Aleria to Corté by a picturesque road following the course of + the Tavignano. Coach every other day 33 + +Prunete to Castagneto or ALESANI, by coach daily. Castagneto + is one of the villages in the Castagniccia or Chestnut + country. The road ascends all the way. It, as well as most + of the roads into the interior, should not be taken till the + chestnut trees are in leaf 33 + +FOLELLI to STAZZONA by coach daily. Stazzona is the village + nearest to the Spa of Orezza. The road extends to Ponte alla + Leccia 33 + +VESCOVATO STATION to PORTA, by coach daily, passing Vescovato, + Venzolasca and Silvareccio. In summer the coach goes on to + Piedicroce 34 + +PONTE ALLA LECCIA to PIEDICROCE by "Courrier" daily 34 + +Piedicroce to Prunete-Railway Station, the finest part of the + road being between Piedicroce and Castagneto. Coach from + Castagneto to Prunete by Cervione. From Castagneto or Alesani + to Prunete see Prunete to Alesani, on p. 33 35 + +SOLENZARA, on the S.E. coast, to SARTÈNE, 46 m. S.W., by a + forest road with much fine scenery 36 + +HISTORY, HABITS, AGRICULTURE and HOUSES OF REFUGE, called + "Maison" in the index 37 + + +LIST OF MAPS. + + Page + +Sketch Map of the Riviera and Corsica, showing the relative + position of their principal towns; as also the ports connected + with each other by steamboat +_Fly-leaf_ + +General Map of Corsica 1 + +Plan of Ajaccio. --The town is built on rising ground 3 + +Environs of Ajaccio 6 + +The Western Central Region. --This is the least known and the + most difficult portion of the island to traverse. Yet easy and + picturesque short excursions may be made from Porto, Evisa and + Galeria, into the forests of evergreen oaks, etc 20 + +Central Corsica, or the most troublesome part of the grand + highway, which traverses Corsica from south to north, from + Sartène to Ponte alla Leccia, whence it ramifies eastward to + Bastia and westward to Calvi and Ile Rousse. It joins the + railway and the road between Ajaccio and Corté near Vivario 27 + + + + +CORSICA + + +Is situated 54 miles W. from Leghorn, 98 m. S. from Genoa, and 106 m. +S.E. from Nice. It is 116 m. long, 52 m. broad, and contains an area of +3376 square miles; divided into 5 arrondissements, subdivided into 62 +cantons, and these again into 363 communes, with a population of +275,000. The surface, of which little more than a tenth is under +cultivation, is composed of lofty and rugged granite mountain chains, +diverging in all directions from the culminating peaks of Mounts Cinto, +8892 ft.; Rotondo, 8613 ft.; Pagliorba, 8278 ft.; Padro, 7846 ft.; and +Oro, 8829 ft. On the western and southern sides of the island these +ranges terminate abruptly on the shore, or run out into the sea; while, +on the eastern side, a great undulating plain intervenes between their +termination and the coast, in summer troubled with malaria, but in a +less degree than formerly. + +Corsica is the central region of the great plant system of the +Mediterranean. Among the many fine forests which cover the mountains, +the most important are those of Valdoniello, Filosorma, Vizzavona Verde, +Zonza, Bavella, Ometa and Calenzana. They contain noble specimens of +pines, oaks, beech, chestnut, walnut and olive trees. The cork oak forms +woods, chiefly in the south of the island. The chestnut trees are as +large and fruitful as the best on the Apennines, and the nuts form the +staple article of food for man and beast during the winter months. +Indeed, these glorious chestnut and beech forests, when in full foliage, +are the grand features of Corsican scenery, which therefore cannot be +seen to advantage till towards the end of May, and if to this we add the +splendid bloom of the oleanders, not till July. "I at any rate know of +no such combination of sea and mountains, of the sylvan beauty of the +north with the rich colours of the south; no region where within so +small a space nature takes so many sublime and exquisite aspects as she +does in Corsica. Palms, orange groves, olives, vines, maize and +chestnuts; the most picturesque beech forests, the noblest pine woods in +Europe; granite peaks, snows and frozen lakes--all these are brought +into the compass of a day's journey. Everything is as novel to the +Alpine climber as if, in place of being on a fragment of the Alps, +severed only by 100 miles from their nearest snows, he was in a +different continent."--D. W. Freshfield, Alpine Club. + +[Map: Corsica] + +[Headnote: VEGETATION.] + +The prickly pear, the American aloe, the castor-oil plant and the +fig-tree, grow wild along the coast; while a little farther upwards, on +the slopes and plateaus, the arbutus, cistus, oleander, myrtle and +various kinds of heaths, form a dense coppice, called in the island +maqui, supplying an excellent covert for various kinds of game and +numerous blackbirds. When the arbutus and myrtle berries are ripe the +blackbirds are eagerly hunted, as at that time they are plump and make +very savoury and delicate eating. + +There are few cows on the island, the greater part of the milk supply +being procured from goats. It is excellent, and has no rank flavour. + +The only remarkable creature is the mouflon, a species of sheep, +resembling that almost extinct animal the bouquetin or ibex of the Alps. +It inhabits the highest mountains, and though very wild is easily tamed. + +The best red wines are grown about Ajaccio, Tallano, Cervione and +Sartene, and the best white wines in Sari and in the valleys of Cape +Corso. They improve up to twenty years, and even up to fifty. + +The temperature of the climate of Corsica varies according to the +elevation. Along the coast the sun is warm even in January. After +January the temperature rises rapidly. The climate of the zone 2000 ft. +above the sea is considerably colder and snow generally appears there in +December. The olive ripens its fruit up to an elevation of 2000 ft. and +the chestnut to 3000, where it gives place to oaks, box trees, junipers, +firs and beeches. The greater part of the population inhabits the region +of the chestnut trees, in villages scattered over the mountain slopes, +valleys and tablelands. + +[Headnote: STEAMBOATS.] + + Steamers to Corsica.--For invalids the easiest way is by the + large weekly Tunis steamer of the Compagnie Generale Transatlantique, + 12 R. de la Republique, which on its way from and to Marseilles, + touches at Ajaccio, 211 m. S., in 16 to 19 hrs., fare including + meals, 38 frs. The Compagnie Insulaire, 29 R. Cannebière, have boats + every week for Ajaccio and Propriano, 38 frs., Calvi and Ile Rousse, + 28 frs., Bastia and Leghorn, 32 frs., and Nice, Bastia and Leghorn. + Weekly steamers between Genoa, Leghorn and Bastia. The boats of the + Compagnie Insulaire being smaller, come within a few yards of the + mole. The luggage is landed from the steamers by the company free of + expense and is delivered at the custom-house to the proprietor on + presentation of the bulletin de baggage. Passengers are taken ashore + and to their hotels for 2 frs. each. + + The Navigazione Generale Italiana, Piazza Marini, Genoa, have a + steamer every week for Portotorres, at the north-west extremity of + Sicily, calling at Bastia. Also from Leghorn to Bastia. Distance 72 + miles, fare 20 frs., time 7 hrs. + + Small steamer between Ajaccio and Propriano twice weekly. + + + + +AJACCIO. + + _Hotels._--On an eminence, in its own grounds, rising gently from + the sea, is the *Grand Hotel, with sea and fresh water baths and + every convenience; opened at the end of the present year. A skilled + English physician on the premises. + + There are besides three good family hotels, charging from 8 to 12 + frs.; in the Course Grandval, the H. Continental, wine 1½ fr., + carpeted brick floors, garden; near it, with south exposure and full + view of the bay, the *H. Suisse or Schweizerhof, wine 1 fr., smooth + wood floors, partially carpeted, garden; at the top of the Course + Grandval, the H. Bellevue, wine 1¼ fr., partially carpeted wood + floors, garden. + + These prices include coffee or tea in the morning, meat breakfast + and dinner and service, but neither candles nor wine, of which the + lowest price per bottle is given above. In the Place Bonaparte is + the H. de France, a good French hotel, pension 8 to 12 frs. + + _Bankers and Money-changers._--The bank Bozzo-Costa and the bank + Lanzi, both near each other in the Boulevard Roi Jerome. + + The office of the Compagnie Transatlantique is in the same + Boulevard; the office of the Compagnie Insulaire is in the Place du + Marché. + + _Cabs._--The course 1½ fr., the hour 2 frs., the day 25 frs. + + Tariff of return drives, with 2 frs. extra for every hour of repose. + + _West_ from Ajaccio: Scudo, 5 frs.; Vignola 1114 ft., 15 frs.; + Vignola village, 10 frs.; Lisa, 15 frs.; Iles Sanguinaires, 10 frs.; + St. Antoine, 5 frs.; Salario, 5 frs. _North_ from Ajaccio: + Castelluccio, 4 frs.; Mezzavia, 5 frs.; Alata and Col Carbinica, 25 + frs.; Afa, 20 frs. + + _East_ from Ajaccio: the Campo dell' Oro, or the plain at the mouth + of the Gravona, 5 frs.; the Baths of Caldaniccia, 5 frs.; + Bastelicaccia, 5 frs.; Pisciatella, 6 frs. Three frs. gratuity for a + whole day. The horses cover on an average about thirty miles a day. + +AJACCIO, pop. 19,050, the capital of Corsica, is situated on the +extremity of a small gulf 677 miles from Paris and 15 to 20 hours' sail +from Marseilles. Founded in 1492 by the Bank of St. George of Genoa, a +commercial association similar to the East India Company, it was raised +in 1811 through the influence of Madame Letitia and Cardinal Fesch to +the dignity of capital of the island, and became accordingly the +residence of the Préfet and the seat of the civil and ecclesiastical +Courts. Ajaccio has a handsome Episcopal chapel built by Miss Campbell, +of Moniack Castle, Scotland, an accomplished lady, the authoress of a +work on the island in French and English. + +In the Cours Napoleon is a small French mission, whose worthy pastor, +besides conducting the regular Sunday services, gives two lectures +(conferences) every week, which are attended by from 80 to 100 people. + +The houses in Ajaccio, as well as those throughout the island, are +generally built in large square blocks of from 3 to 5 stories, each +story forming a separate dwelling. + +[Map: Ajaccio] + +[Headnote: NAPOLEON'S BIRTHPLACE.] + +The mole at which passengers land from the steamers is at the foot of +the Place du Marché. In the centre of this "Place" is a fountain +ornamented with lions and a white marble statue of Napoleon I. by +Laboureur. To the left of the statue is the Hotel de Ville, the markets, +and the commencement of the Rue Fesch, in which is the edifice +containing the public library, the museum, and the memorial chapel +(p. 5); while to the right is the Rue Napoleon, in which the first +opening right leads into the Place Letitia. A little beyond this opening +is No. 17, the house of the Pozzo di Borgo family, of whom Charles +André, 1768-1842, was the great upholder of Paoli and the bitter enemy +of Napoleon I. Napoleon's house, though not equal to that of the Borgo +family, was one of the best in Ajaccio. It is well built, of three +stories of six windows each, and all the rooms have a more or less +handsome marble chimney-piece. Over the door is inscribed on white +marble "Napoleon est né dans cette maison le XV Aovt MDCCLXIX". A good +staircase, bordered by a wrought-iron railing, leads to the top. The +rooms shown are on the first floor. The first is the parlour, with a +small table, a few chairs, and a piano said to have belonged to Mme. +Letitia. Then after having passed through a small chamber we enter the +room in which Napoleon was born, into which Madame was brought hurriedly +from the church in the sedan chair kept in the end room. Over the +chimney-piece are portraits of the father and mother. Then follows the +dining-room, and after it the drawing-room, with inlaid wood floor and +six windows on both sides. The floors of all the other rooms are of +glazed tiles. In the next room is the sedan chair. Fee for party 1 fr. + +This now silent and empty house was once enlivened and brightened by the +fair Letitia and her large family of children, just like other men's +children; schoolboys toiling at their Plutarch or Cæsar, and their three +young sisters growing up careless and rather wild, like their +neighbours' daughters, in the half-barbarous island town. There is +Joseph, the eldest, then Napoleon, the second born, then Lucien, Louis, +and Jerome; then Caroline, Eliza, and Pauline, the children of a notary +of moderate income, who is incessantly and vainly carrying on law-suits +with the Jesuits of Ajaccio to gain a contested estate which is +necessary to his numerous family. Their future fills him with anxiety; +what will they be in the world and how will they secure a comfortable +subsistence? And behold! these same children, one after the other, take +to themselves the mightiest crowns of the earth--tear them from the +heads of the most unapproachable kings of Europe and wear them in the +sight of all the world; and they, the sons of an Ajaccio lawyer, cause +themselves to be embraced as brothers and brothers-in-law by emperors +and kings. Napoleon is European Emperor; Joseph King of Spain; Louis +King of Holland; Jerome King of Westphalia; Caroline Queen of Naples and +Pauline and Eliza Princesses of Italy. In 1793, after the flight of +Madame Letitia and her children to her country residence, the Casone, +the house was pillaged by the Corsicans opposed to the French Republic. + +[Headnote: CATHEDRAL.] + +Near the Place Letitia is the cathedral built in the 16th century by +Pope Gregory. It contains the font at which Napoleon I. was baptized on +the 21st July 1771. + +[Headnote: MEMORIAL CHAPEL.] + +In the Rue Fesch is the College founded in 1822. In one wing of the +edifice is the public library, with 33,000 volumes, founded by Lucien +Bonaparte, and the museum and picture gallery, with 900 paintings, +mostly copies; and in the other the memorial chapel built by Napoleon +III., lined with beautiful marble. In the crypt under the transept, left +hand, is the tomb of Marie Letitia Ramolino, died at Rome in 1836; and +right hand, that of Napoleon's uncle, Cardinal Fesch, died at Rome in +1839. Both bodies were brought to this, their present resting-place, in +1851. There are, besides, the tombs of Prince Charles and of Zenaida his +daughter. Napoleon's father died in 1785 and is buried at Montpellier. +Madame was only 35 at his death and had already borne him 13 children, +5 of whom were dead, and Jerome was an infant in the cradle. + +Parallel with the Rue Fesch is the Cours Napoleon, by which all the +diligences enter and leave the town. The continuation round the bay is +bordered with plane trees. At the commencement is a bronze statue of +"E. C. Abbatucci né à Zicavo le 12 Novembre 1770, mort pour la patrie +le 2 Decembre 1796." Near it is the railway station. + +At the western end of the Cours Napoleon is the Place Bonaparte or +Diamant, bordered with trees and ornamented with a complicate bronze +monument on a granite pedestal by Violet le Duc, "à la memoire de +Napoleon I. et de ses frères Joseph, Lucien, Louis, Jerome." All are +life-size statues; Napoleon is on horseback, the others on foot, +marching solemnly towards the sea. + + +[Headnote: WALKS.] + +EXCURSIONS. + +From the port, 11 m. W., is the chapel S. Antonio, 850 ft. The road +passes the penitentiary of S. Antonio, 331 ft. North from it, under +the peak of La Barrage, 1476 feet, is the Castelluccio penitentiary. +Westward by the Hospice Eugenie and the Batterie de Maestrello, a +pleasant road leads along the coast to the orange gardens of Barbicaja, +passing by the Chapelle de Greco and the cemetery. About 4 m. farther is +the Tête Parata, 199 ft., opposite the Iles Sanguinaires. + +A beautiful road, the continuation of the Cours Grandval, ascends 2½ m. +to the Fontaine du Salario, 760 ft., commanding enchanting views. This +road traverses the Place Casone, 144 ft., occupying the site of the +Casone, the country house of the Bonapartes, destroyed in 1878. Close by +is the "grotte Napoleon," composed of blocks of granite, to which, it is +said, the youthful Napoleon used to retire. + +About 6 m. N. from Ajaccio is the village of Alata, 1312 ft. Within an +easy walking distance north from Ajaccio is the pleasant estate of +Carrosaccia, on the canal which supplies the town with water from the +Gravona. 5½ m. N. from Ajaccio are the sulphurous springs of +Caldaniccia. + +[Headnote: FAMILY TOMBS.] + +In the neighbourhood of Ajaccio and of the other Corsican towns and +villages are numerous family sepulchral chapels enclosed within walls. A +more pleasing characteristic feature, probably inherited from the Moors, +are the numerous fountains in the villages and by the road side, whence +flow streams of cold, sparkling water of exquisite purity. + +[Headnote: CLIMATE.] + +_Climate._--For convalescent invalids, Ajaccio forms a delightful change +from the Riviera, as it is so rural, and has such pleasant air and good +water. The hotels are comfortable and their charges moderate. As, too, +the road metal used around Ajaccio is that disintegrating granite which +so readily solidifies by the combined action of the rain and traffic, +there is very little dust in the neighbourhood (p. 9). + +The principal winds are the Libeccio or S.W. wind, the Sirocco or S.E. +wind, and the Mistral or N.W. wind. + +On the 12th, 13th and 14th of May the fair of St. Pancras is held, which +affords a good opportunity for purchasing Corsican horses. They are from +10 to 14 hands high and of great endurance. It is wonderful to behold +the energy these small slim creatures display in dragging heavy +lumbering diligences up long, steep, winding roads. + +But more wonderful still is it to see the peasant women and girls as +young as thirteen carrying on their heads up and down the mountain paths +big pails, or the more elegant two-handled brass jars of classic form, +containing about two gallons of water, without ever stumbling on any of +the many stones. The pails are made of copper lined with tin, weighing +when full of water from 55 lbs. to 65 lbs. + +Among the curiosities of Ajaccio are gourds made into bottles, of +various shapes and sizes and mounted with silver, and the pretty baskets +made of straw by the girls of Alata. + + +[Map: Environs of Ajaccio] + + +Ajaccio to Bastia. + + Ajaccio to Bocognano by rail, thence by diligence to Corté; Corté to + Bastia by rail 47 m., or 44 by road. The road from Ajaccio ascends + the valley of the Gravona to its source at the Col Vizzavona. On the + N. side of the Col it follows the course of the Vecchio. The most + picturesque part of this route is between Vizzavona and Vivario. + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to BASTIA + +{ }{95} +AJACCIO. Start from the station in the Cours Napoleon. The road, after +traversing the fertile plain of Campo dell Oro, crosses the Col +Sudricchio, 804 ft., and then the bridge of Ucciani, 948 ft., built in +the reign of Louis XIV., 17½ m. from Ajaccio and 2 m. from the village +of Ucciani. Use general map, and map, p. 27. + +[Headnote: BOCOGNANO.] + +{25}{70} +BOCOGNANO, pop. 2000, and 2120 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Univers. +Picturesquely situated in a plantation of chestnut trees, surrounded by +high mountain peaks. Near Bocognano commences the Vizzavona tunnel, 4375 +yards through the mountain. Diligence now to Corté. The road, having +crossed the Sellola bridge, 2843 ft., winds its way up by the Col de +Pinzalone, 3370 ft., and the Maison and Pont de Lavatoggio 3615 ft. to +the top of the ridge. See map, p. 27. + +[Headnote: VIZZAVONA.] + +[Headnote: PINES.] + +{31}{64} +LE FORT DE VIZZAVONA, on the summit of the Pass, 3813 ft. above the sea, +with the Gendarmerie and a few houses of refuge. A few miles northwards +is Monte d'Oro, 7845 ft., and southwards Monte Renoso, 7733 ft. The +diligence, in its descent to Vivario, traverses the forest of Vizzavona, +consisting mainly of beeches and larches, frequently 150 ft. high. Of +this tree there are two varieties, the _Pinus pinaster_ or cluster pine, +the _Pin maritime_ of the French, which grows best on deep loose soils +and flourishes even on the drifting sands of the sea shore. They supply +large quantities of resin. Their wood being soft, coarse and perishable, +is usually converted into charcoal and lamp black. The other is the +_Pinus laricio_, which thrives on the high lands of Corsica, Spain, +south of France, Greece and Cyprus. Their growth is rapid, the trunk +straight and from 100 to 150 ft. high, the branches are in regular +whorls, forming in large trees a pyramidal head, and the leaves are +slender, from 4 to 7 inches long, and of a dark green tint. The timber +is good and durable, though less strong than that of the _Pinus +silvestris_. Between the 51st and 53d kilomètre stones are passed the +"Maison de Refuge d'Alzarella," and the "Maison de refuge Omellina," +2832 ft. + +After crossing the Col de Campo di Lupo, 2684 ft., 35 m. from Ajaccio, +the road descends into the ravine of the Vecchio, above which is + +[Headnote: VIVARIO.] + +{38}{57} +VIVARIO, pop. 1500, and 2152 ft. _Inn:_ H. Voyageurs a three-storied +house. Junction with road to Zicavo, 37 m. S. (pp. 27,29). Although +Vivario be a poor village, yet it has a terrace and fountain ornamented +with a statue of Diana. The breeding of pigs fed in the adjoining +chestnut forest, and the manufacture of hams, sausages and bacon, are +the most important industries of the inhabitants. + + From Vivario a forest road extends 27 m. S.E. to the hamlet of + Vadina, by Muracciole 2022 ft., 1½ m., the Col Erbajo 3018 ft., + 7 m.; Pietroso 10½ m., Saparelli 12½ m., and Quinzena 18 m. From + Vadina a good carriage road leads 6 m. to the Baths of Pietrapola, + which are supplied by most copious springs of hot, saline, + sulphurous water. The season is from May 1 to June 30; or + September 1 to November 30. The situation is beautiful and the + bathing-establishment and lodging accommodation comfortable, and + much frequented. + +The road from Vivario to Serraggio passes along the top of the rocky +gorge of the foaming Vecchio. The best view of the gorge is from the +Pont du Vecchio 40 m. from Ajaccio and 280 ft. above the bed. From +Serraggio, 1890 ft., Mt d'Oro is well seen. See map, p. 20. + +The road now passes Lugo, 1980 ft.; S. Pietro, 2496 ft.; the Col. S. +Nicolo, 2473 ft.; and Casanova, 2136 ft., to + +[Headnote: CORTÉ.] + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to BASTIA + +{51}{44} +CORTÉ, 1329 ft., pop. 5500. _Hotels:_ *Paoli, 8 to 10 frs., Europe. Is +situated at the junction of the Tavignano with the Restonico, in the +midst of majestic mountains of the most varied form. The citadel or +château, built in the early part of the 15th century, stands on +precipitous and jagged rocks rising from the Tavignano, commanding from +the top a magnificent view of the wild surrounding scenery. In the +"Place" is a statue of Paoli, the Corsican patriot, born at Stretta in +1726, and to the right of the statue the post and telegraph office. In +the immediate neighbourhood stands a large house, a Franciscan convent, +in which the Corsican parliament assembled in Paoli's time. Near Corté, +by the left side of the Restonico, is a quarry of marble of a bluish +tint with reddish white veins. To take the walk up the gorge of the +Restonico, descend by first road left up the main street from the hotels +and cross only the Tavignano bridge. The mountain appearing to close the +valley is Mte. Rotondo. See map, p. 20. + +Coach to Aleria, 31 m. S.E. (p. 33), by a beautiful road. + +Just outside Corté the rail traverses the Torretta tunnel, 1531 yards. + +[Headnote: MTE. ROTONDO.] + + From Corté the ascent of Monte Rotondo is most easily effected. It + is 8613 feet above the sea-level, or 7284 feet above Corté. Cabins + inhabited by the herdsmen are scattered over the declivities of the + mountain up to within 3000 feet of the top. Time 2 days. Guide with + mule 25 frs. Ascend by the road up the picturesque valley of the + Restonico to the Timozzo bridge, 3590 feet, and 2½ hours from Corté. + From this the path extends 1½ hour up the wild ravine of the Timozzo + to the shepherds' huts; whence the rest must be done on foot. Now + the hard work commences. Block lies above block, towering upwards + and upwards in such endless masses of monotonous gray that the heart + quails with the sight and the foot trembles to go farther. After + about 2 hours' scramble over these colossal steps the traveller + reaches the fontaine de Triggione, about 2200 feet below the summit + and in full view of it, an incomplete circle of steep jagged cliffs. + About 330 feet higher is a little dark lake, the Lago di Monte + Rotondo, encircled by gentle green slopes, where the night is + generally spent. Snow-field extend from the lake to the summit, + which, although apparently near, requires 2 full hours' climbing to + reach, often on hands and feet, over sharp fragments of rock, or up + steep beds of slippery frozen snow. The extreme peak is a rugged + obelisk of gray rock ending in a pinnacle. A way leads down by the + S. side in 6 hours, to Guagno by lake Bettianella, 3419 ft., then W. + by the road over the Col de Manganella, 5874 ft. See map, p. 20. + +[Headnote: GRANITE.] + + "The view from Monte Rotondo did not impress me. The central + uplands, which form a large portion of it, are bare and arid, while + the great ridge of Monte Cinto stretches across the northern horizon + like a long screen. Comparatively little of the coast is seen in any + direction, but most towards the west. It was curious to notice how + completely the tops of the mountains between us and the Cinto ridge + were flattened down, while the crest on which we stood was a set of + bristling teeth. There are two kinds of granite in Corsica, one + friable and unable to resist the action of the air, the other hard + and defiant of the elements. Of this latter consist the Cinto range, + Monte Rotondo and the rocks in the forest of Bavella."--D. W. + Freshfield, Alpine Club. + +The road now from Corté to Bastia traverses the Quilico Col, 1932 ft., +passes Soveria, 1843 ft., and Caporalino, 8 m. from Corté, 36 from +Bastia and 1 m. from Omessa. About 1½ m. farther it crosses the Golo by +the Francardo bridge, 856 ft., where it meets the great Forest Road from +Porto, 50 m. S.W. by Evisa and the Col de Vergio, p. 18, and map, p. 20. + +[Headnote: PONTE LECCIA.] + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to BASTIA + +{66}{29} +PONTE ALLA LECCIA, 624 ft. Village, and coach and railway station. +_Inn:_ Cyrnoz. Diligence to Calvi by the beautiful northern continuation +of the road from Prunete by Cervione and Piedicroce, p. 20. "Courrier" +daily to Piedicroce, 18 m. S.E. by Morosaglia, see p. 34. During the +summer heats Ponte alla Leccia is considered insalubrious. + +[Headnote: PONTE NOVO.] + +{71}{24} +PONTE NOVO. The site of the disastrous battle fought on the 9th of May +1769, when the Corsicans lost their independence and became subject to +France. The two small houses on the right bank, a little farther down +the river, were Paoli's headquarters. One month afterwards he, with some +other Corsican refugees, sailed from Porto Vecchio in a British vessel +for England (p. 39). + +[Headnote: BORGO.] + +{85}{10} +BORGO, pop. 820. On the Mariana hills, rising from Lake Biguglia, one of +the many lagoons on the eastern coast, separated from the sea by narrow +sandbanks. Along this coast extend the only large plains in Corsica. +Unfortunately, in summer they are subject to malaria, which, however, a +judicious system of drainage is gradually abating. They are cultivated +by Italian labourers who visit the island periodically. Between Borgo +and Bastia is Bevinco, with valuable marble quarries. Southward from +Borgo on the coast is Mariana, the site of the colony founded by Marius +(p. 34). + +[Headnote: BASTIA.] + +{95} +BASTIA, pop. 21,000. _Hotels:_ *France; Europe; Lingenieur; Croix de +Malte over the post and telegraph office, all in the Boul. du Palais, 8 +to 10 frs. Theatre; Public Library with 65,000 volumes. Steamers twice a +week to Marseilles, time 18 hours, touching once a week at Nice, 12 +hours distant. Fare direct to Marseilles, including food, 28 frs. To +Nice, without food, 30 frs. Rubattino's steamers leave three times a +week for Leghorn; time 6 hours. These same steamers proceed afterwards +to Genoa. Railway to Corté. Rail also to Aleria, whence diligence to +Bonifacio, Sartène and Ajaccio. + +Diligences daily from Bastia to Cap Corse, 7 hours, 6 or 5 frs.; and +also to Calvi, 12 hours, 13 or 10 frs. + +[Headnote: BRANDO.] + +Carriages to visit the stalactite cave at Brando, 10 frs. Admission 2 +frs. each. It is 7 m. from Bastia, above Erbalunga, on the face of a +mountain; and was discovered in 1841 by M. Ferdinandi. A steep path +leads up to it. Keeper near cave. See p. 12. + +_Bastia_, the most important city of Corsica, is built on ground rising +gently from the sea. Facing the sea and the principal harbour is the +Place St. Nicholas, adorned with a marble statue of Napoleon I., by +Bartolini, looking towards the island of Elba. In this "Place", the +promenade of the town, are the offices of the Messageries Maritimes and +of the Compagnie Insulaire. Fraissinet's office is at the old harbour; +whence also their steamers sail. + +From the Place St. Nicholas ascends the principal street, the Boulevard +du Palais, to the Palais de Justice. In this Boulevard are the post and +telegraph offices (whence most of the diligences start), the hotels, +cafés and the best shops, and from it ramify the streets of the town. At +the top of the B. du Palais commences, right hand, the Boul. Cardo, one +of the best roads to take for views of the town and neighbourhood. A +flight of steps leads from the quay up to the cathedral, a handsome +building in the Italian style. The markets are held in the "Place" +fronting the cathedral. Most of the houses are built in large blocks +from 5 to 6 stories high and from 6 to 9 windows broad, each story +forming a separate residence. + +Bastia owes its name to the bastion built here by the Genoese in the +14th century. From the hills behind Bastia the view embraces the islands +of Gorgona, Capraja, Elba, and Monte-Christo, seen best from the top of +the Serra di Pigno, 3640 feet. Refer to map on fly-leaf. + +[Headnote: STEAMERS.] + +The most beautiful part of Corsica, and the most easily visited, is the +eastern side, including the Castagniccia or the chestnut country, and +the whole region up in the mountains, which border this coast. The +wealthiest, most industrious and most enterprising of the people are +those who inhabit that long narrow tongue of land called Cap Corse. +Although boats are constantly sailing from Marseilles and Leghorn to +Bastia, invalids visiting Corsica with the intention of wintering in +Ajaccio should, if possible, sail from Marseilles or Nice direct to +Ajaccio; but on leaving the island, when winter is over, Bastia is +perhaps the best port to sail from, as it affords an excellent +opportunity for visiting the most beautiful parts of Corsica and the +most important towns in Italy. On arriving at Leghorn (see Black's +_South France_) it is best to proceed at once to the railway station, +and start for Pisa, only 30 minutes distant. There are numerous trains. +At the station and in the kiosques in the "Piazzas" of Leghorn, is sold +an excellent little book with all the railway Time-tables, _L'Indicatore +Ufficiale_, price 50 c. + + +[Headnote: CAP CORSE.--WINE.] + +CAP CORSE. + +Bastia to Rogliano and Morsaglia. + +See General Map, p. 1. + +By diligence, fare to Rogliano, 4 frs. and 3 frs., distance 27½ m., 6 +hrs. To Morsaglia, 5½ and 4½ frs., distance 37½ m., 8 hrs. By the road +skirting the eastern side of the peninsula of Cap Corse, the best +cultivated part of the island, and containing the tidiest villages. The +best Cap Corse wine, mostly white, is produced around Luri and Rogliano. +The quality used as table wine is drunk the first year. It improves till +the fifth year, the better qualities till the tenth and twentieth year. +Cap Corse is traversed by a rugged mountain range or serra, of which the +culminating peaks are Mount Alticcione, 4230 feet; Mount Stello, 4536 +feet; and the Serra de Pigno, 3640 feet. From the east side of this +rugged serra little fertile valleys extend to the sea. + +[Headnote: PINO.--LURI.] + + Mr. Freshfield thus describes the "Cap":--"Down a promontory 8 to + 10 m. wide runs a range 3000 to 4000 ft. high, with the crest towards + the western coast and the valleys towards the eastern. Hence the + western Cornice road is a terrace along an always steep, sometimes + sheer, mountain side, while the eastern crosses a succession of low + maquis-covered spurs, which beyond Cap Sagro flatten and become + monotonous. Pino is one of the most beautiful sites on the western + coast. It is also important as the spot where the cross-road through + the vale of Luri, under Seneca's tower, falls into the western + Cornice. Half-way on this road the village of Luri groups itself in + the most picturesque way imaginable on a hill-side broken by a deep + ravine. Down on the seashore above the little Marina or port is a + large convent; a church occupies a projecting brow 200 ft. above it; + higher still, and right and left, every vantage-ground is occupied + by groups of well-built villas and sepulchral chapels. The slopes + are terraced into orchards of citron, lemon, peach and almond trees, + olive groves and vineyards, sheltered from the gales of winter by + high palisades." + + Farther south, 5¼ m., is Nonza, with inn, 479 ft., pop. 550. Coach + to St. Florent. This is one of the most curious villages of the + island. It stands like an eagle's nest, perched above the sea on a + black rock on the mountain side. Its houses, built level with the + edge of the cliffs, formed in olden days a sufficient rampart + against marauders. + +The diligence having passed Lavasina 4½ m. from Bastia, Brando 7 m., and +Erbalunga 6¼ m., halts at Sisco-port 9¼ m. To visit the cave of Brando +take the steep narrow path left, near a mill, just before arriving at +Erbalunga. Seats in shady places are placed here and there. The keeper's +house is close to the entrance. The diligence then proceeds by +Pietracorbara 11½ m., and the Torre all'Osse 13 m.; one of the best +remaining specimens of the 85 towers built by the Pisans and Genoese to +ward off the attacks of the Saracens. From the Torre the diligence +proceeds other 2 m. to Perticciolo, where it halts. + +[Headnote: SENECA'S TOWER.] + +Two miles farther is S. Severa, where the horses are changed and the +passengers breakfast. From S. Severa, a road ramifies 10 m. W. to Pino +on the other side of the peninsula by the valley of the Luri, with +vineyards and orange groves, passing the village of Luri 3½ m., with +good inn, the Col de S. Lucie 7 m., 1363 ft., and Saronese 9¾ m. From +the Santa Severa inn, Seneca's tower is distinctly seen, at the head of +the valley, on the summit of a precipitous peak, rising from the S. side +of the Col, 1355 ft., from which a steep, stony path leads up to it, by +a forsaken Franciscan convent. The view is grand. To this tower, one of +the many watch-towers built in the 12th cent., Seneca could never have +been sent, but to the Roman colony of Mariana, then used as a place of +banishment for political offenders. + +[Headnote: SENECA.] + +Lucius Annæus Seneca was born at Cordova in Spain, just before the +commencement of the Christian era. His eldest brother was A. Seneca +Novatus, which name was altered afterwards to that of his adopted +father, Junius Gallio. This brother was the proconsul of Achaia, before +whom St. Paul was arraigned (Acts xviii. 12). While Seneca was still a +child he was brought by his aunt to Rome, where he had for teachers +Sotion, Papirius Fabianus and Attalus the Stoic. Although weak in body +he was a most diligent student, which, joined to his powerful memory, +enabled him to obtain at an early age important offices. Before his +banishment, A.D. 41, he had already served as quæstor. Having irritated +Caligula, he would have been put to death, had not one of the mistresses +of the emperor assured him that it was not worth while, as Seneca was so +consumptive he would soon die a natural death. + +In the first year of the reign of Claudius, his wife Messalina having +become jealous of the influence his niece Julia, daughter of Germanicus, +had over Claudius her husband, succeeded in getting rid of her by +imputing to her improper intimacy with Seneca, then a married man. For +that reason Seneca was banished to Corsica A.D. 41. + +During his exile he wrote his consolatory letter to his mother Helvia, +as well as a panegyric on Messalina and a consolatory letter to +Polybius, ostensibly to condole with him on the loss of his brother; but +in reality to get that powerful freedman to exert his influence with the +emperor, to recall his sentence of exile. This letter is full of fulsome +flattery and expressions unworthy of an honest man. + +After the death of Messalina, Claudius married his niece Agrippina, +sister of Julia and mother of Nero by a former husband. Through her +influence Seneca was recalled A.D. 49 and appointed a prætor and tutor +to Nero, then 11 years old. In A.D. 51 Agrippina poisoned her husband. + + +[Headnote: MACINAGGIO.--ROGLIANO.] + +From S. Severa, the diligence, resuming its journey, passes Meria +20½ m., and halts again at the port of Macinaggio 2½ m. more. From this +commences the steep ascent up to Rogliano 1300 ft., a town built in +groups on the side of the mountain, among vineyards and olive and +chestnut trees, the inn being in the second highest group, near the +post-office. After Rogliano the diligence crosses the Cols S. Anne, +Cappiaja and S. Nicholas, and arrives at Botticella 31 m., and then +proceeds to Ersa with inn, near the top of the Col de Serra 1182 ft., +commanding a good view of Cap Corse. Shortly afterwards the diligence +arrives at Morsaglia, called also Pecorile, a village composed of groups +of houses like Rogliano on the side of a hill. The conductor of the +diligence will show the hotel. Six miles S. from Morsaglia is Pino, see +p. 12. + +[Headnote: BOTTICELLA.] + +From Botticella a road leads 4½ m. N. to Barcaggio, opposite the island +of Giraglia, on which is a first-class lighthouse, 269 feet above the +sea, seen within a radius of 14 m. + +From Morsaglia the road is continued 31 m. farther to the Col S. +Bernardino on the Bastia and St. Florent road, passing Pino, 25 m. from +the Col S. Bernardino; Minerbio, 21½ m.; Marinca, 16 m.; Nonza, 9 m.; +Farinole, 2½ m.; Pont du Patrimonio, 1¼ m.; and joins the Bastia road at +the Col S. Bernardino, 11¼ m. W. from Bastia. + + +Bastia to Calvi. + +57 miles west; time 12 hours; fare 13 and 10 frs. + +[Headnote: COL TEGHIME.] + + miles from BASTIA + miles to CALVI + +{ }{57} +BASTIA. The road traverses a mountainous country, with scanty +vegetation. As far as St. Florent the prevailing rocks are micaceous and +beyond granitic. Immediately after leaving Bastia the diligence +commences the ascent of the Col de Teghime (1785 feet) in the Serra di +Pigno, discovering as it winds its way upwards, an ever-extending +panorama over the great eastern plain, including Lake Biguglia, and the +Mediterranean with the islands of Elba, Gorgona and Monte Christo. As +the road descends towards the western shore, the enchanting panorama of +the blue gulf of St. Florent, encircled by low reddish rocks, gradually +unfolds itself. It was at this road, made by Count Marboeuf, at which, +it is said, King Bernadotte worked among the other labourers. It passes +the hamlets of Barbaggio and Patrimonio, the Col St. Bernardino 11¼ m. +from Bastia, and the Pont des Strette, and enters the valley of Nebbio, +partly watered by the sluggish Aliso, flowing through a marsh crowded +with oleanders. + +[Headnote: ST. FLORENT.] + +{14¼}{42¾} +ST. FLORENT, pop. 760. Hôtel de l'Europe, where a hurried breakfast can +be had while the horses are being changed. Close to the village is the +site of the ancient town of Nebbio, occupied now by a few poor houses +and a small church, now a ruin, built in the 12th century. Napoleon +said, "St. Florent has one of the finest situations I have ever seen. It +lies most favourably for commerce, its landing places are safe and its +roads can accommodate large fleets. I should have built there a large +and beautiful city." It was one of the first places to give adherence to +the Bank of Genoa. + +The road now for some distance leaves the shore and ascends a range of +barren hills containing slate, limestone and granite. Hardy trees become +more abundant than the chestnut, and the mountains higher and more +imposing, as we approach the little port of + +[Headnote: L'ILE ROUSSE.] + +{42}{15} +L'ILE ROUSSE, pop. 1610; Hotel Europe. The diligence stops in the +"Place" near the monument to Pascal Paoli, and remains a sufficient time +to enable the traveller to cast a glance over the main features of this +port, founded by Paoli in 1759. The street beyond the "Place" leads by +the market to the harbour and to the long jagged tongue of red sandstone +rocks projecting into the sea, bearing on the extreme point a lighthouse +of the fourth order. Steamer every alternate week to Marseilles. There +is a charming view from the eminence St. Reparata, crowned with a +church, now abandoned. + +Inland from L'Ile Rousse is the fertile valley of Balagna, famous for +the size and fertility of its olive trees (p. 20). + +{47}{10} +ALGAJOLA, pop. 200. The block of granite which forms the pedestal of the +column in the Place Vendome came from the quarries of this place. +Pillars 65 feet long can be procured from this quarry. + +[Headnote: LUMIO.] + +{51}{6} +LUMIO, pop. 1100, among orange groves and high cactus hedges. From the +hills here there is a beautiful view of the valley and gulf of Calvi. +Junction here with road to Corté, 55½ miles, south-east, passing through +a charming and picturesque country (see p. 20). + +[Headnote: CALVI.] + +{57} +CALVI, pop. 2200. _Inns:_ H. France, in the high town; *Colombani, in +the low town, near the dil. office and the wharf. Steamer for Marseilles +every alternate week. This, the nearest port to France, is composed of +the Citadel or Haute Ville and the Port or Basse Ville. The former, +although the residence of the public functionaries, has a dilapidated +and forsaken appearance. A rough road, paved with blocks of granite, +leads up to it and to the ramparts, commanding beautiful and extensive +views. The houses, shops and streets of the Basse Ville are much better +and more cheerful than those in the Citadel. Both are defended by Fort +Mozzello, rising behind the harbour. On the Punta-Revellata is a +lighthouse of the first order, with a fixed light seen 20 miles off. +Eight miles S.E. from Calvi is Calenzana, pop. 2900, with the chapel of +S. Restituta, visited by pilgrims. + + +Calvi to Ajaccio. + + miles from CALVI + miles to AJACCIO + +{ }{102} +Distance 102 miles S.E. The road skirts the coast the greater part of +the way. The first village is Galeria, pop. 500--_Inn:_ Seta, 21 miles +S. from Calvi. From Galeria the Route Forestière, No. 8, extends 16 +miles eastwards to the Col Capronale, 4495 feet, in the forest of Ometa. +Six miles from Galeria is the entrance to the forest of evergreen oaks +of Treccio, as well as the commencement of the road, 4½ m. long, to the +forest of Perticato by the Col Erbajo, 3½ m., 2090 ft., and the Bocca +Melza, 4½ m. 2500 ft. + + +Galeria to the Forests of Filosorma. + +Grand scenery. Guide necessary. Map, p. 20. + + This, the forest road No. 8, has two ramifications. The main line + follows the course of the Fango the whole way, and only becomes a + mule-path when near the Maison de Cantonniers d'Ometa, 14 m. E. + + 3¾ m. from Galeria a mule-path ramifies from the road to the hamlets + of Tuarelli, Prunicciole and Chiorna. 3 m. farther is the + ramification, 4½ m. S., through the forest of Perticato by the Col + d'Erbajo, 2090 ft., 3½ m. S., and the Bocca Melza, 2500 ft., 4½ m. S. + From the Bocca Melza a very bad path leads 2 m. S. to the hamlet of + Pinito. At the beginning of the above ramification the main road + enters the Ilex forest of Treccio, and leaves it nearly 2 m. + afterwards. + + 8¾ m. from Galeria is a roadside inn, and 3¼ m. farther the entrance + into the Ilex forest of Ometa. + + 11¼ m. from Galeria and about 2 m. from the almost unknown valley of + the Lonca, an affluent of the Porto, is the Pont de Lancone, 1083 + ft., across the Rocce. From this bridge there is a good view of Mt. + Tafonato, 7687 ft., to the N. E., with its singularly perforated + peak. + + 13¼ m. is the Grand Cassis d'Ometa, 1680 ft. A little farther the + road becomes a bridle-path, and ascends from 1677 ft. to the Maison + de Cantonniers d'Ometa, 2274 ft., and 1 m. farther is the end of the + forest of Ometa. + + 15 m. from Galeria is the Grand Cassis de Giargione, 1163 ft., and + about 2 m. farther the summit of Col Capronale, 4495 ft. A little + way beyond, at the Capo Guagnerola, is a beautiful semicircle of + reddish rocks covered with trees at the base. Farther E. by the Golo + this forest road joins the forest road No. 9 to Francardo (p. 18). + + Having crossed the Col de Castellaccio, 850 feet, and passed through + the villages of Partinello and Vitriccia, 20 m. from Galeria, we + arrive at + + miles from CALVI + miles to AJACCIO + +{51}{51} +PORTO (_Inn:_ H. Padoram), occupying a pleasant and sheltered situation +at the head of a fine gulf, with a climate rivalling that of Ajaccio. +Most of the timber from the forests of Valdoniello and Perticato is +shipped here. For Porto to Ponte Francardo, see p. 18. + + The road from Porto to La Piana (map, p. 20) affords a delightful + drive, and exhibits good engineering. It is cut for a considerable + distance through the rocks and cliffs and tall jagged peaks, like + cypresses turned into stone, standing on the edge of this savage + coast, parts of which are truly splendid. As the ascent is slowly + continued, charming views disclose themselves, and on each side of + the road the eye discerns some new beauty to dwell upon. At the Col + Geneparo, to the right are the ruins of the castle of the Colonnas + di Leca, rising boldly above the sea and surrounded and protected by + magnificent natural battlements and pinnacles. Six miles from Porto, + after having passed the Cols of Geneparo and Mezzano, both about + 1250 feet, the traveller reaches + +[Headnote: LA PIANA.] + + miles from CALVI + miles to AJACCIO + +{58}{44} +LA PIANA, 1587 feet, pop. 1280. _Inn:_ H. France. Delightfully situated, +with a fine sea-view. From the Col San Martino, 1 m. from La Piana and +1630 feet above the sea, the landscape undergoes a rapid change. The +magnificent rocks become parched and arid and the grass as yellow as the +soil where it tries to grow. + +[Headnote: CARGÉSÉ.] + +{70}{32} +CARGÉSÉ, pop. 1100. _Inn:_ H. de Voyageurs. A large village at the foot +of a hill which slopes down to the sea. It was founded by a colony of +730 Greeks, who, fleeing from the oppression of the Turks, arrived and +settled here, by the permission of the Genoese, in March 1676. For +having refused to aid Paoli in 1755 against the Genoese their villages +were burnt to the ground, and they themselves had to seek refuge in +Ajaccio. After the cession of Corsica to the French in 1769 M. de +Marboeuf had the village and church of Cargese built for the colonists, +when they all returned. Greek is still spoken in the village, and it has +a Greek as well as a Romanist priest. + +[Headnote: SAGONA.] + +{79}{23} +SAGONA, pop. 100. The port of Vico. It contains a few houses, one of +which is the inn, where beds, bread, eggs, coffee and wine can be had. +On the beach are generally large logs brought down from the forests for +shipment. Junction with road to Vico 9¼ miles E. (see p. 23), and also +with the road extending 19 miles E. to the forest of Aïtone, passing by +the Col Vico, 7½ m., 1607 ft.; Poggio, 12½ m.; the Col Sevi, 3612 ft., +13¼ m.; Cristinacce, 16½ m.; and the Col Lacciola, 3040 ft. in the +forest. Five and a half miles from Sagona are the cold sulphurous +springs of Caldanella; efficacious as a tonic. + +{87½}{14½} +CALCATOGGIO, pop. 670. A poor village on a hill above the road. From +this the diligence shortly after commences the ascent of the Col +Sebastien, 1344 feet, 12 miles from Ajaccio. After the Col Sebastien, +the road having passed over the Col Staggiola, 930 feet, within a short +distance of Appietto, situated on a hill; reaches + +AJACCIO, 102 miles south-west from Calvi. + + +Porto to the Ponte Francardo. + +50 miles north-east. Map, p. 20. + + This important forest road traverses the region of the highest + mountains and of the greatest forests, passes through Albertacce, + and by the other villages of the Canton of Calacuccia, and then + proceeds to Francardo by the defile of the Golo. + + Porto to Evisa, 13¾ m., by an excellent carriage road wending + through most picturesque mountain scenery. The road, after following + the course of the Porto, crosses the stream Onda, ascends the ravine + of the Cario, which it crosses 3 m. from Porto under the Capo + Polmonaccia, 5627 ft. It now winds its way round little valleys into + the narrow gorge of the Porto between dark red cliffs crowned with + pinnacles. Nine m. from Porto is the ramification of the mule-path + to Chidazzo, and ½ m. farther the ramification to Marignano. The + road, after passing the chapelle S. Cyprien, enters Evisa, pop. + 1000; _Inn:_ *H. Carrara; 2770 ft., on a high promontory projecting + in the centre of a mountain-girt basin from the central range + between two deep gulfs hollowed out to a depth of 2000 ft. Behind it + rise pine forests to a broad mountain crest, the pass of the Niolo. + + Evisa is admirably situated for excursions. A difficult winding path + leads in 2½ hours down to the great walls of the dark granite ravine + called the Spelunca, at the confluence of the Aïtone with the Porto. + Rambles and drives into the forest of Aïtone, from which + unfortunately the old stately pines have disappeared. + + Evisa to Albertacce, 18 m. E. The road traverses the forest of + Aïtone with its vigorous beeches and young pines (_Pinus laricio_), + whose stems are clear of branches from 80 to 100 ft. It is watered + by the Porto and numerous brawling streams; which rush down steep + ravines covered with moss and ferns. In the forest, 3 m. from Evisa, + by this road, is the Maison forestière d'Aïtone, where those + provided with introductions, see p. 41, will find pleasant + headquarters for grand excursions and fishing and botanical + expeditions. 1¼ m. farther is the house of the road menders + (Cantonniers) of Tagnone; where lodging can also be had. + + The road having made several detours to get round the heads of + ravines, ascends the Col de Vergio 4803 ft. on the great mountain + chain separating the valley of the Golo from the valley of the + Porto. About 230 ft. above the Col on the Cricche ridge, a little to + the W., is an admirable view of Mt. Tafonato, 7687 ft., almost due + N., with a strange natural tunnel through the summit. From Mt. + Cuculla, 6733 ft., nearly 1¾ hours W. from the Col is a still better + view of Tafonato, and besides a sight of Mt. Cinto, the valley of + the Golo and the mountain range of Monte Rotondo. A little beyond + the summit of the Col is the Maison de Cantonniers de Castellaccio, + whence there is a good view of the forest of Valdoniello, 11,483 + acres, containing besides many large pines very fine specimens of + beeches, birches and alders. The felling of the trees in this forest + commenced in 1863. + + After arriving at the Maison forestière de Sciattarina 10½ m. from + Evisa, the road passes by some of the finest trees, and descends + into the valley of the Golo; which has its source in a ravine + between Mts. Tafonato and Paglia-Orba. + + Four and a half miles farther is the Maison forestière de Popaja, + 3468 ft., 15 m. from Evisa and 3 m. from Albertacce. Either this + house or the former, make good quarters for exploring the forest. + + Two miles farther is the Ponte Alto, 2740 ft.; where the road + crosses the Golo and enters the pastoral country of the Niolo; now + called the canton of Calacuccia, comprehending the villages of + Albertacce, Calacuccia, Corscia, Lozzi, and Casamaccioli. + + From near the bridge a mule path of 1¾ m. ascends to Casamaccioli, + 2780 ft., pop. 550; whence the continuation leads in 7 hours to + Corté by the Bocca la Croce, the Melo forest, and the valley of the + Tavignano. + +[Headnote: ALBERTACCE.--MONTE CINTO.] + + Albertacce, 18 m. from Evisa, 2845 ft., pop. 1000, a dirty village + amidst chestnut and walnut trees; where a good deal of coarse linen + and Corsican cloth is woven. It is one of the places whence the + ascent is made of Monte Cinto, 8892 ft., in 7 hours, and in about 6 + for the descent. The path ascends by Calasima, 3610 ft., to the + height of 5251 ft. After this the course extends almost horizontally + in a western direction across ridges, ascending by gradations more + or less fatiguing. + + When about 7720 ft., and having climbed nearly 6 hours, a cave is + passed where shelter can be had. The remainder of the ascent is + comparatively easy. The view is grand, Monte Falo, 8363 ft., being + the most prominent object. The ascent cannot be made till the + beginning of summer on account of the snow. + +[Headnote: LAKE NINO.] + + To Lake Nino, 5598 ft., the source of the Tavignano in 5 hours. + From the lake a mule path chiefly by the left bank of the Tavignano, + leads in 6½ hours to Corté, through magnificent forests. + + Around the lake are some shepherds huts; where rest and refreshment + can be had, but no further supply of food can be counted on between + the lake and Corté. The lake, full of fish, lies in a hollow between + high mountains, the highest being Mt. Retto, 6592 at the western + end. + + Albertacce to Ponte Francardo, 18 m. N.E. The road follows the + Golo. To the left, a road 1¼ m., leads up to Lozzi, pop. 1050. 2½ m. + from Albertacce is Calacuccia, 2779 ft. pop. 860, and 2 m. farther, + another byeroad ascends to Corscia, 2913 ft., pop. 1000, about 5 + hours walk S. from Asco, whence also Mt. Cinto may be ascended by + the valley of the Asco called also Stranciacone. Asco is 5 hours + from Olmi Capella by the Stranciacone, its affluent the Tassinella, + and the Col de Petrella, 6440 ft., to the S. of Mt. Corona, 7032 ft. + + Near the chapel of S. Pancrazio, 2786 ft., 4 m. from Albertacce is + the commencement of the Scala di Santa Regina, as this part of road + is called, cut in the face of perpendicular cliffs rising from the + bed of the Golo. About half way are the small chapel and inn of + Santa Regina, and the cave which in former times used to be the + stronghold of robbers. + + Thirteen miles from Albertacce is the Pont du Diable, 1083 ft., + where four roads meet. The road southwards or to the right leads to + Corté, 7 m. S. by Castirla and Soveria, and the Col of Oninanda, + 2155 ft., between cliffs rising 1720 ft. above it. + +[Headnote: ASCO.] + + The road leading northwards extends to the beautiful highway between + Ponte alla Leccia and Calvi; by Castiglione 3¼ m., pop. 550, at the + foot of Mt. Traunato, 7186 ft., Popolasca, 7 m., pop. 200, with + beautiful red granite pinnacles, and Moltifao 12 m., pop. 1050, with + Inn, consisting of a group of villages, clustered on the slopes of + the ridge which separate the valley of the Tartagine from the Asco. + The byeroad S.W. from Moltifao leads up the highly picturesque + valley of the Asco, with magnificent forest trees, to the village of + Asco, pop. 950, a group of hamlets seldom visited, although one of + the best points from which to make the ascent of Mt. Cinto. + + [Headnote: PONTE FRANCARDO.] + + The road leading 5 m. N.E. by the Golo extends to the Ponte + Francardo, where the rail may be taken. See p. 9 and General Map. + + +Calvi to Corté or to Bastia. + +See General Map. + + By Ponte alla Leccia. The finest part of the road is between Calvi + and the Col Colombano. "If I were to permit myself to dwell in + detail on the exquisite variety and charm of the drive, especially + after quitting the _route forestière_ a little E. of the hamlet of + Palasca, I should wander far from the main purpose of this paper. + Valery, Gregorovius, Lear and others have done justice to its + wonderful beauty, and the last truly remarks that 'those who visit + Corsica without going through upper Balagne remain ignorant of one + of its finest divisions,' adding, 'no description can exaggerate the + beauty of this remarkable tract of mountain background and deep + valley, which for richness of foreground, cheerful fertility and + elegance of distance may compete with most Italian landscapes.' The + district is densely peopled--at least twelve large villages are + situated on the road itself between Belgodere and Lumio, a distance + of 21 miles--and picturesque hamlets with lofty campanili perch high + up on the mountain slopes or crown the summits of the lower hills, + whilst everywhere there is the richest culture and most varied + produce, and the charm of the picture is completed by continually + varying views over 'bowery hollows crowned with summer sea.'"--F. F. + Tuckett, Alpine Club. + +[Headnote: THE OLIVE TREE.] + + miles from CALVI + miles to CORTÉ + +{ }{61} +CALVI. The road skirts the coast as far as Lumio, 6 m. from Calvi, +whence it commences to ascend gradually by an admirably engineered road +round the undulations of olive-clad mountains, disclosing at every turn +a different view of the fertile valley of Balagna, extending from the +distant mountains to the blue waters of the Mediterranean. It is said +that there is no district throughout the whole of Italy where the olive +attains such a size as in this valley. Of the tree there are three +varieties, the Sabine (_Sabinacci_), the Saracen (_Saraceni_), and the +Genoese (_Genovesi_), the most common of all, and is ascribed to the +Genoese, who during the government of Agostino Doria compelled the +Corsicans to plant olives in great numbers. + +[Map: Corsica Western Central Region] + +After passing the picturesquely situated village of Lavatoggio, 9 m.; +the Col Cesario, 1200 ft., 10½ m.; the villages of Feliceto, inn, pop. +640, 16¼ m.; Castor, 24 m.; Speloncato; Ville di Paraso, pop. 750; +Occhiatana, and many more perched on the surrounding mountain tops, or +nestling in nooks among olive and chestnut trees, the diligence arrives +at + +[Headnote: BELGODERE.] + +{26¾}{34¼} +BELGODERE, 1017 feet, pop. 950, commanding the finest view of this +beautiful valley, its orchards, fields and mountains undulating towards +the blue sea. The diligence just remains long enough to give time to run +through the gate and up the narrow dirty street to the top of the rock +on which the houses are clustered, and there to take a rapid glance at +the lovely scene around and underneath. After the gate, the diligence +halts at the post-office, and then moves on a few yards towards the +stables, where the horses are changed. + +FOREST ROAD FROM BELGODERE TO THE FOREST OF TARTAGINE. + +[Headnote: CAPELLA.--TARTAGINE FOREST.] + + From Belgodere, Route Forestière, No. 3, leads down to the small + port of Losari, 6 miles N. from Belgodere and 4½ E. from the Ile + Rousse. A continuation of the same route southward extends to the + bridge across the Tartagine, 2355 feet, 25 miles from the Ile + Rousse, in the great forest of Tartagine. It passes the Bocca + Campana, 2782 feet, 3¼ miles from Belgodere; the Bocca Croce, 3045 + feet, the culminating part of the road, 7 miles from Belgodere; and + 2½ miles farther, the hamlets of Olmi and Capella, 9 miles from + Speloncato; with ever-varying mountain and village scenes among + great forests; 20 m. from Belgodere is the Pont Tartagine in the + forest of that name. The forest of Tartagine, enclosed within the + high crests of the Capo Dente 6667 ft. on the west, and of Mt. Padro + on the east, measures 7166 acres, and contains principally the + _Pinus laricio_ and the _P. pinaster_, intermingled with ilexes or + evergreen oaks (p. 41). + + "Olmi-Capella 2723 ft. is in an open airy situation, commanding fine + views of the mountains to the S. and S.W., and protected to some + extent on the N. and N.W. by the ridge which sweeps round to the + head of the Tartagine valley. This ridge, though in the + neighbourhood of the village only about 1000 ft. above the sloping + plateau on which it is built, rises to the W. into the peaks of + Monte Tolo 4370 ft., Monte San Parteo 5512 ft., Monte Cineraggia + 5286 ft., Monte Grosso 6227 ft., Punta Radiche 6595 ft., Capo al + Dente 6667 ft., and Monte Corona 7031 ft. The N. slope of this ridge + is very steep, and commands most magnificent views of the Haute + Balagne and the sea beyond, whilst it is traversed by numerous + passes which afford charming scenery. Besides the _route + forestière_, which crosses the Col de Bocca Croce 3048 ft., and by + which the timber of the forest of Tartagine is conveyed to Ile + Rousse for shipment, several mule-paths connect Olmi Capella much + more directly with Ville and Speloncato by the Bocca Battaglia 3550 + ft., and Bocca Croce d'Ovo 3629 feet; with Feliceto by the Bocca + Pianile 5033 ft.; with Zilia and Calvi by the Bocca di Cineraggia + 4698 ft.; with Calenzana by the Bocca Bianca 6155 ft., with + Calenzana or the Val Ficarella by the Bocca di Tartagine 6093 ft.; + and with the head of the valley of Asco by the Bocca de l'Ondella + 6086 ft."--F. F. Tuckett, Alpine Club. + +[Headnote: PALASCA.] + + miles from CALVI + miles to CORTÉ + +{28¾}{32¼} +PALASCA, pop. 550. Situated lower down than the high road and the last +village on this side of the + +{31½}{29½} +COL DE SAN COLOMBANO, 2625 feet above the sea. The view though more vast +is less distinct, presenting a succession of mountain-tops, between +which are dimly seen valleys with the sea in the distance. The diligence +now descends into the narrow, rocky vale of the Navaccia, an affluent of +the Tartagine, which enters the Golo a little above the important bridge +called the + +[Headnote: PONTE ALLA LECCIA.] + +{46¾}{14¼} +PONTE ALLA LECCIA. Inn at station. Here take rail for Corté (see p. 8) +or for Bastia, 29 miles N.E. (see p. 10). The Ponte Nuovo is distinctly +seen from the station. The two small houses near the railway bridge, on +the S. side of the Golo, were Paoli's headquarters during the battle +(see pp. 9 and 39). + +{61} +CORTÉ, see page 8. + + +Ajaccio to Vico and Evisa. + +33 miles north; time 7 to 8 hours; fare 4 frs. + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to VICO + +{ }{33} +AJACCIO. At about two miles from the town the diligence commences the +ascent of the low Col of Stileto, passing the aqueduct for the Gravona +water. On the left hand are the granite quarries whence the large slabs +were taken for the monument to Napoleon in the Place d'Armes, as well as +the long blocks for the pillars of the Marseilles cathedral. To the +right are the village of Appietto, pop. 700, on a hill and the great +cliff Monte Gozzi, 656 feet high. + +{12}{21} +Summit of the COL ST. SEBASTIEN, 1344 feet above the sea, commanding a +lovely prospect of the Bays of Liscia, Sagona and Cargésé, and of the +valley of Cinarca, with its villages and vineyards. At the foot of the +Col is a small inn called Le Repos des Voyageurs, where bread and wine +and capital sea-urchins can be had. They are eaten raw, and taken out of +the shell by cutting it in two horizontally. + +{23}{10} +SAGONA, junction with road to Calvi, 79 miles N. (see p. 17). + +{31}{2} +Summit of the COL ST. ANTOINE, 1488 feet. Near the top, at some distance +to the left, is the village of Balogna, pop. 600, while in front is seen +the splendid range of the Monte Rotondo, among which the most +conspicuous is La Sposata, at the head of wooded valleys. + +The road to the left or N. leads to Evisa, 18 miles from Vico, pop. +1000, and 2770 feet above the sea. _Hotel:_ Carrara, a comfortable +house, where vehicles may be hired. Evisa is charmingly situated on the +confines of the forest of Aïtone, containing 3,749 acres. Beyond Aïtone, +or 11 miles from Evisa, is the large forest of Valdoniello, 11,483 +acres. These forests, instead of extending monotonously on large plains, +plunge into deep valleys, or creep up the sides of high mountains. + +From Evisa descend to Porto (see p. 18). + +[Headnote: VICO.] + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to VICO + +{33} +VICO, pop. 2020. _Inns:_ France, where the diligence stops; Voyageurs; +Univers. Most picturesquely situated in the valley of the Liamone, +surrounded by steep mountains covered with apple, peach, chestnut, +walnut, olive and oak trees. On the opposite side of the valley is the +large whitewashed convent of St. Francis, with terraced garden shaded by +tall magnolias, beautifully placed on a thickly-wooded bank, above which +is seen the small hamlet of Nessa. It is a favourite summer resort of +the _élite_ of Ajaccio, who revel here on carpets of cyclamen, violets, +and a profusion of other wild flowers, in the shade of the dense foliage +of the chestnut groves around. + +[Headnote: BATHS OF GUAGNO.] + + Seven and a half miles from Vico up the wooded vale of the Liamone + and by the Bridges of Silvani and Belfiori, the village of Murzo and + the Col de Sorro, are the Baths of Guagno, with hot, sulphurous + springs, resembling in their properties those of Bareges in the + Pyrenees (see Black's _South France_). From May to September they + are much frequented, when a coach runs between Vico and Guagno. + Time, 2 hours; fare, 3 frs. Coaches can be hired at Vico for Evisa. + Charge, 10 frs. + + +Ajaccio to Sartène. + +53 m. S. by diligence, over a hilly road; 13 hrs. + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to SARTÈNE + +{ }{53} +AJACCIO. The most comfortable way to go to Sartène is to take the +steamer to Propriano, only 8 miles N. from Sartène, and there to await +the daily coach. The diligence from Ajaccio, after having crossed the +rivers Gravona, Prunelli, Agnone, Vergajolo and Margone, and the pass of +Campolaccio, 843 feet, arrives at + +[Headnote: CAURO.] + +{12½}{40½} +CAURO or CAVRO, 1180 ft. _Inn._ Coach to Bastelica. Pop. 700. A +straggling mountain village, commanding extensive views. + + +Cauro to Bastelica. + + 12 m. northwards by "Courrier" by a charming forest road, which + after crossing the Else at the Pont Zipitoli, 7 m. from Cauro, + enters the defile of the Prunelli at the Col de Menta, about 2 m. + from Bastelica. + + The road from Cauro crosses the Col Torro, 1394 ft., 1½ m. Four + miles, the col and bridge S. Alberto, 1710 ft. whence a road + ramifies 7½ m. S. to S. Maria-Siché and Grossetto. On the right side + of the road a waterfall descends from the crest of the Usciolo. + Large oaks and chestnut trees with ilexes and pines are now seen. + 7 m. here a short branch road leads to a maison forestière surrounded + by large trees, at the foot of Mt. Mantelluccio, 5515 ft. A little + farther a road ramifies 4½ m. by the wild and beautiful valley of + the Else into the forest of Ponteniello, and where it ends a mule + path commences to Frasseto, pop. 750, on the coach road between + Ajaccio and the baths of Guitera. 7½ m. the Zipitoli bridge across + the Else, a short way above its junction with the Prunelli. On the + right side of the river is the Maison de Cantonniers of Zipitoli. + + 8 m. The Col Crichetto, 2380 ft., and nearly 3 m. farther the Col + Menta, 2458 ft., from which the road descends to the Prunelli and + continues by its banks to + +[Headnote: DOMINICACCI.] + + Bastelica, pop. 4000, inn, 2400 ft., consisting of a group of + hamlets, none of which bears the name of Bastelica. Sampiero was + born in the one called Dominicacci, between Stazzona and Costa, at + the end of the 15th cent., and killed by the Ornanos in the defile + of the Prunelli on the 17th January 1567. The house which stands on + the site of the one he lived in bears an epitaph to his memory, + placed by "William Wyse, Irish Roman Catholic, nephew of Napoleon + the Great." + +[Headnote: MT. RENOSO.] + + Among the many pleasant excursions is the ascent of Mt. Renoso, 7733 + ft., 5½ hrs. N.E. + + In summer men go up every day with mules for frozen snow. There are + lakes on the south and east sides of the mountain, and some fine + velvety swards. Map, p. 27. + +Five miles beyond Cauro, the Sartène road attains the summit of the Col +St. Georges, 2500 ft., commanding a fine prospect of the surrounding +country, and afterwards descends to the valley of Ornano, the native +land of Vanina, traversed by the Taravo. + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to SARTÈNE + +{20}{33} +APA, whence a Route Departamentale extends 18 m. N.E. to the baths of +Guitera and Zicavo. Maps, pp. 1 and 27. + + +AJACCIO TO ZICAVO AND THE BATHS OF GUITERA. + +[Headnote: BATHS OF GUITERA.] + + 8¼ hrs. by coach and 39 m. from Ajaccio by the Apa mill, 1841 ft., + then by the slopes of the Punta del Castello, 2674 ft., through a + charming country, to S. Maria-Siché, 2 m. from Apa, inn where + coach stops, pop. 800. An old lofty building here of granite, with + the remains of towers blackened by age, was the birthplace of the + unfortunate Vanina, strangled by Sampiero, p. 39. The ruins of the + chateau he built for himself in 1554, after his house had been + destroyed, are seen on a hill to the left of the road. Coaches for + Ajaccio, Guitera, Zicavo, and Propriano. 4½ m. from Apa at Campo, + pop. 390, the road describes a great circuit to get round the head + of the defile of the torrent of Frasseto, an affluent of the Taravo. + 1¼ m. farther is Frasseto, pop. 740. When about 2770 feet high there + is, through an opening, a superb view extending to the sea by the + valley of the Frasseto. 8 m. from Apa is the Col de Granace, 2713 + ft., with a splendid view. Zecavo, 10 m., 2238 ft., pop. 510, on an + affluent of the Taravo. Then rounding the buttresses of the Sposata, + 3288 ft., enter the village of Corrano, 12 m., pop. 470, in a lovely + situation. 14½ m. from Apa and 34½ from Ajaccio are the hot + sulphurous springs of Guitera, with hotel, 1437 ft., on the right + bank of the Taravo, an excellent trout stream. Coach to and from + Ajaccio during the season, from May to September. Pleasantly + situated among cork oaks and banks covered with the Osmunda fern. + The road from the Baths of Guitera up to Zicavo, 3½ m., follows for + about 1 m. the Taravo till its union with the torrent from Mt. + Coscione, whence it climbs up through the gorge to + +[Headnote: ZICAVO.--MT. INCUDINE.] + + Zicavo, pop. 1500, hotel, 2385 ft., charmingly situated, + overlooking the valley of the Taravo, 38 m. by coach from Ajaccio. + From Zicavo the ascent is made of Monte Incudine, 7008 ft., in 6 + hrs. Mules can be employed to within ½ hr. of summit. Although not + difficult, guide and mule are advisable, if for nothing else than to + assist in fording the streams. After having passed the chapel of S. + Roch, ascend a steep mule path, right, among the largest and best + formed chestnut trees in the island, then rounding Mt. Buchino, 3623 + ft., among ilexes, and Mt. Occhiato, 5749 ft., covered with beech + trees, ascend southwards by a wooded ravine between great rocks. + Between 2 and 3 hrs. the Pastures of the plain of Coscione, with + many shepherds' huts, are reached, whence Mt. Incudine is seen. + After leaving this the path becomes very bad, over loose stones and + across troublesome torrents. These are succeeded by an annoying + thick coppice of alders, and then the Col de Cheralba, 6345 ft., is + ascended, in about 5½ hrs. from starting. The mules are left here, + and the ascent is made by the western flank, taking care to make the + guide understand that the highest peak is wanted, and not the Rocher + de l'Incudine. "The view is probably the most beautiful in + Corsica--a vast panorama full of variety. Steep pine clad hills sink + abruptly into the eastern sea; glens open southward on a rich + glowing valley; the blue depths of the bays are fringed with an + edging of white sand and green water. The great granite aiguilles of + the forest of Bavella, a strange array of horns and pinnacles, run + across the foreground; to the left the long fiord of Porto Vecchio + stretches far into the land; while in the centre of the picture are + spread out the broad Straits of Bonifacio, studded with pale isles + and islets. On the left is Caprera, the home of the liberator of the + Two Sicilies. [Headnote: NELSON.] The one beside it, Maddalena, is + linked with even greater memories--Nelson and Napoleon. Under its + lee, in a bay which Nelson christened 'Agincourt Sound,' the British + fleet lay for months before the battle of the Nile, watching for the + French squadron sheltered behind the guns of Toulon. Two silver + candlesticks on the altar of the village church record Nelson's + gratitude for the friendly services of the inhabitants. It was in + attacking this same village that Napoleon, in 1793, first saw fire. + For mountain views the Alpine clubman is spoilt, but for sea views, + and they are not less beautiful, he must go far, perhaps as far as + Greece, to find such another."--D. F. Freshfield, Alpine Club. See + map on fly-leaf. + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to SARTÈNE + +{21}{32} +GROSSETO, 1476 feet, pop. 600; 4½ hours by diligence from Ajaccio. + A little beyond the inn is the church, sheltered by large ilex + trees, which grow to a great height in this neighbourhood. + +{30}{23} +BICCHISANO, 350 feet, pop. 1800, where the passengers dine. + The diligence then passes the villages of Petreto and Cassalabriva, + pop. 300, and shortly afterwards reaches the summit of the Col + Celaccia, 1910 feet, about 2½ m. E. from Sollacaro, pop. 800, where + Boswell visited Paoli. Sollacaro is not on the highroad. + +[Headnote: OLMETO.] + +{39}{14} +OLMETO, pop. 1650, hotel. On a hill, with an extensive view. + In the neighbourhood, on Monte Buttareto, are the ruins of the + castle of Arrigo della Rocca. No more beautiful sight than that of + Olmeto can be pictured. Immediately below the town the ground dips + steeply down, covered with corn or turf; or in terraces of vineyard, + varied with large groups of fine olive trees stretching down to the + shore. Above the village a vast growth of vegetation climbs the + heights. Among huge masses of granite are tangles of every shrub the + island produces, the wild olive or oleaster being one of the most + elegant; while every part of the heights close to the town abounds + with little picture subjects, with a clear blue sky for a + background. + + The road now descends to the coast, and after crossing the Baracci, + near the hot sulphurous mineral baths of Baracci, arrives at + +[Headnote: PROPRIANO.] + +{44½}{8½} +PROPRIANO, pop. 1000. H. France. + Every Saturday a steamer arrives from Ajaccio, and returns on the + Monday morning. Another steamer twice weekly between this and + Ajaccio. Near the bridge over the Rizzanèse, are the two Celtic + monuments called the Stazione del' Diavolo. + +PROPRIANO TO SOLENZARA. + + Two and a half miles beyond the bridge commences the Route + Forestière, No. 4, leading to Solenzara, 42½ m. N.E. This road + ascends by the Rizzanese to S. Lucia di Tallano, whence eastward to + Levie, 1970 ft.; and thence Zonza, 2586 ft. The road afterwards + ascends N.E. by a picturesque ravine to the Col Bavella, 3965 ft.; + whence after descending to the Maison Cantonniere, 1476 ft., it + crosses the Col Larone, 2013; whence it descends by a winding road + partly by the banks of the Fiumicello and partly by the R. Solenzara + to Solenzara (see p. 36). + +[Map: Corsica, Central Region] + +Shortly after crossing the Rizzanese the diligence commences the long +ascent to Sartène, disclosing views of the great valley below and of the +splendid snowy heights of the long range of mountains opposite, +terminating in the lofty regions of the great Monte Incudine, 7008 ft. + +[Headnote: SARTÈNE.] + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to SARTÈNE + +{53} +SARTÈNE, 1000 feet; pop. 6010; _Inns:_ Commerce: Univers. + Coaches daily to and from Ajaccio, Bonifacio and Santa Lucia di + Tallano. Old Sartène is a town of narrow streets approached by a + fine bridge, whence the whole valley is seen down to the Gulf of + Valinco. It still retains some towers and parts of the walls erected + in the 16th century. The houses are built of rough, dark gray + granite, with steep stone steps leading up to the main entrance, and + odd Italian chimneys, some in the shape of pillars with curious + capitals, others in the form of towers or obelisks. The houses + bordering the Nouvello Traverse and the streets leading into the + "Place" form the new town. + + +Sartène to Corté by Vivario, + +up the centre of the island. Maps, pp. 1 and 27. + + This grand mountain road, No. 196 bis, extends from Sartène, + 73 m. N. to the Ajaccio and Corté road, which it joins at the 60 + kilometres-stone, on the Col Serra, ½ mile from Vivario. All the + diligences between Ajaccio and Corté halt at the inn of Vivario + (p. 8). + +[Headnote: S. LUCIA DI TALLANO.] + +After leaving Sartène the road crosses the Fiumicicoli and ascends the +valley of the Rizzanese to Loreto, 12 m., and Cargiaca 15 m. N. from +Sartène 1302 ft.; grand view. Near Loreto is S. Lucia di Tallano, 1270 +ft., with a quarry of a beautiful amphibole, a variety of hornblende. +The ground colour is grayish blue sprinkled with white and margined with +black spots (see p. 37). + +[Headnote: ZICAVO.] + +From Cargiaca the road enters the valley of the Coscione and ascends +through the ilex forest of Taca amidst towering mountains and vertical +cliffs by the villages of Zerubia and Aullene, 2736 ft., pop. 1100; inn; +21 m. N. from Sartène. It now crosses the Coscione, 3492 ft., then the +Col Vaccia, 3898 ft., and descends by the Col d'Alisandri, 3426 ft., to +Zicavo, 2445 ft., with an inn, 17 m. from Aullene, 3½ m. E. from the +baths of Guitera, 38 m. N. from Sartène and 37 m. S. from Vivario. + +From the Bocca Tinzole a road ramifies N.W. to Olivese 1460 ft., pop. +700, in the valley of the Taravo, 7 m. from Guitera by a beautiful +road. + +From Zicavo the road crosses the Col San Francesco, 1969 ft., to +Cozzano, 40 m., pop. 900, and enters the valley of the Taravo, which it +ascends by the east bank between two great mountain chains, the +culminating point of the western chain being Mt. Don Giovanni 6405 ft., +and that of the eastern Pointe Capella 6706 ft. + +Three and a quarter miles up the valley from Cozzano a wheel road leads +1½ m. E. to the Maison Forestière of St. Antoine, whence a mule path by +the Col de Rapara, 5557 ft., extends to Isolaccio and the hot baths of +Pietrapola, p. 8, by a picturesque road through a beautiful part of the +forest. + +Four and a half miles above Cozzano is the Col Scrivano, 2959 ft., +whence a mule path leads across the valley to Palneca, pop. 1050, on the +wooded slopes of Mt. Pietra Cinta, 4958 ft. + +A little below the summit of the Col is the Maison de Cantonniers de +Scrivano. + +Nine and a half miles N. from Zicavo is the bridge Argentuccia, fronting +a grand semi-circle of mountains covered with noble trees. This is the +commencement of the real Verde forest. + +Eleven and three quarter miles from Zicavo is the Maison de Cantonniers +de Ghiraldino, 3936 ft., 49 m. N. from Sartène, 2 m. S. from the Col +Verde and 5 m. S. from the House of Refuge of Marmano. A little beyond +the house a wheel road, left, descends into one of the finest parts of +the Verde forest. + +[Headnote: COL VERDE.] + +Thirteen and three quarter miles from Zicavo and 51 m. from Sartène is +the Col Verde, 4290 ft., with, nearly a mile distant, the Maison de +Cantonniers de Marmano. Below is the forest of Marmano, with its best +trees cut down, and in the neighbourhood the sources of the rivers +Taravo, 5678 ft., at the Col Tisina, of the Fium Orbo, 3783 ft. under a +mountain a little to the N. of the Col Verde, and of the Prunelli, 4790 +ft., among a group of high mountains to the W. The Vecchio rises from +the springs on Mt. Oro. + +[Headnote: REFUGE DE MARMANO.] + +Seventeen miles from Zicavo and 54 m. from Sartène is the Refuge de +Marmano, 3182 ft., beautifully situated. Here was formerly the summer +station of the Casabianda penitentiary. The escaped criminals committed +such outrages that the government at the repeated petitioning of the +shepherds were obliged to withdraw it. Finally Casabianda was abandoned +also, and the prisoners removed to the neighbourhood of Ajaccio, where +they could be well looked after. + +Food and lodging may be obtained at the Maison Forestière, or 1¼ m. +farther at the Maison de Cantonniers de Canareccia, 2760 ft., in the +rocky defile of the Fium Orbo. Between this and Ghisoni, 6 m., 3 bridges +and 2 low Cols are crossed. At the second bridge, the Pont de Casso, +4½ m. from Ghisoni, are seen the great pinnacles or needles and lofty +cliffs of Albuccia Point or Kyrie Eleison, 4935 ft. + +From the Canaraccia the road winds its way northward along the flanks of +mountains sloping down to the Orbo, which it leaves shortly before +reaching + +[Headnote: GHISONI.--COL SORBA.] + +Ghisoni, pop. 1740, 2160 ft., 62 m. N. from Sartène, 12 m. S. from +Vivario, 8 m. N. from the House of Refuge, and 24 m. N. from Zicavo. +Four m. N. from Ghisoni the road crosses the Col Scozzolatojo, 3916 ft., +and 2 m. farther the Col Sorba, 4310 ft., 6 m. S. from Vivario, see p. +8. The descent from the Col Sorba into Vivario is very striking. It is +effected by excessively sharp zigzags through a noble pine forest. +Between the branches tower the bold forms of Monte d'Oro, Monte Rotondo, +and, in the distance, behind the uplands of Corté, the crags of Monte +Traunato. + +The best resting-places on this road are Zicavo, 39 m. S.E. from +Ajaccio, from which it is approached by a diligence; and the pleasant +village of Ghisoni, where there is a very fair inn. At Vivario there is +the Hotel Voyageurs. Guides and carriages should be hired either at +Sartène or Vivario, 20 frs. per day. + + +Ghisoni to Ghisonaccia. + +18 m. S.E. Maps, pp. 1 and 27. + + By the Forest road No. 5, cut for nearly 11 m. in the face of the + steep cliffs which enclose the Orbo. As this road in all the + dangerous parts is hardly 11 ft. wide, it is necessary to ascertain + before starting in a vehicle, the position of the carts conveying + the logs, and to arrange accordingly. + + The road descends from Ghisoni to the Pont de Regolo, 2077 ft., + where it crosses the Casapietrone, and then follows the course of + the Fium Orbo, crosses the Ruello Bridge 1450 ft., and enters the + Salto della Sposata 4½ m. from Ghisoni, where the river flows in a + narrow bed between vertical precipices, some more than 1200 ft. + high. + +[Headnote: L'INZECCA.] + + The road, chiselled out of these cliffs, passes under 3 great + portals. From the third is seen, through the great cleft in the rock + of Inzecca, the sea at Aleria. + + After this the defile opens up to close again between serpentine + cliffs. It then crosses the 2 Ponts de Parabuja and the viaduct de + l'Inzecca, and reaches the entrance to the Passage de l'Inzecca, + 7 m. from Ghisoni, 985 ft. above the sea, where the road is cut + through great serpentine rocks. This is the most difficult part for + the waggons to pass. Map, p. 27. + + The plain now widens, and 8 m. from Ghisoni a branch road leads to + Vezzani. + + Nine and a quarter miles from Ghisoni is the Col S. Antoine, 355 ft., + and 8¾ m. farther is Ghisonaccia, p. 32. + + +Sartène to Bonifacio. + +33 miles south-east, by diligence; time, 6 hours. + + miles from SARTÈNE + miles to BONIFACIO + +{ }{33} +SARTÈNE. The road winds its way through great blocks of granite +scattered on a plain studded with shrubby specimens of the ilex, towards +the shore of the Golfo di Roccapina, with a fantastically shaped rock +called il Leone Coronato. East from the gulf the road passes the village +of Pianottoli, 21 m. from Sartène, almost due south from the singular +mountain l'Uomo di Cagna, 3980 ft.; then the bridge across the Figari at +the head of the Gulf of Figari, 23 m.; the Col de la Testa or Scopeto, +225 ft., 24 m.; and the bridge across the Ventilegni, 27 m. from +Sartène, and 6 from Bonifacio. + +[Headnote: BONIFACIO.] + +{33} +BONIFACIO, pop. 4000. H. du Nord; France in the high town. Diligences +leave daily for Bastia, Sartène, and Ajaccio. A steamer arrives every +Saturday from Ajaccio and returns on the Monday. Bonifacio was founded +in 833 by the Tuscan marquis whose name it bears, to protect this part +of the island against the piratical incursions of the Saracens. The high +town is built on the top of a limestone rock rising vertically from the +sea. The low town occupies one side of the fine natural dock, hemmed in +by perpendicular cliffs with an opening of only 328 yards towards the +sea. From the steamboat wharf a broad paved series of steps leads up to +the high town, entering it through the Porte Vieille. In the old house +fronting this Porte or gateway, Charles V., in 1541, stayed two days and +a night on his return from his unsuccessful expedition against Algiers. +Overtaken by a storm, he had taken refuge in the Gulf of Santa Manza. +The door of the house, decorated with an arabesque on marble, is in the +narrow side street. In the Place d'Armes are the church of San Domenico, +built by the Templars, characterised by its octagonal tower with an +embrasured termination; and the great tower "Torrione," part of the +fortifications built by the marquis, and formerly the most important +part of the citadel. Near this tower is the flight of steps "Redragon," +cut in the rock by the Genoese, which descends by 202 steps to the sea. +The small room over the gateway of the citadel, opposite the house of +Charles V., was inhabited by Napoleon for nearly eight months. There are +grand sea-views from the ramparts. The town consists of tall, dingy +houses, and narrow, steep, and in most cases dirty streets. The +promenade of Bonifacio is the small covered terrace before the church of +Santa Maria. Here also is the public cistern. + +Of the numerous caves which pierce the base of the rock of Bonifacio, +the most remarkable one enters from the sea, 214 feet below the Place +d'Armes, and extends to an unknown distance. It contains a freshwater +lake, which rises and falls with the tide. A staircase with a vaulted +roof and consisting of 337 steps leads down to this lake. The water is +brought up to the surface by a force pump, is perfectly transparent, +with a slight calcareous taste. In the high town there are 39 private +and one public cistern, in which the rain water from the roofs is stored +up. The low town has a well supplied from a stream by an aqueduct. The +afternoon is the best time to visit the caves. A boat for one or party +should not cost more than 5 frs. The finest, the Dragonetta, cannot be +visited when the sea is rough. + +On Monte Pertusato (the south extremity of Corsica), 2 miles S.E. from +Bonifacio, is a lighthouse of the first order, 325 feet above the sea. +The southern promontory is pierced by a cavern hung with stalactites. + + +Bonifacio to Bastia. + +103 miles; diligence to Ghisonaccia, 50 m. N., the rest by rail. + + miles from BONIFACIO + miles to BASTIA + +{ }{103} +BONIFACIO. The diligence, after passing the Col Finocchio, 354 feet, 2½ +miles N. from Bonifacio, the Maison Francola, 7 miles, the bridge across +the Stabiacco, 16 miles, and the Col Mattonara, 17½ miles (whence the +Route Forestière, No. 11, ascends 14 miles west into the forest of the +Ospedale), arrives in 3 hours at + +[Headnote: PORTO-VECCHIO.] + +{27}{76} +PORTO-VECCHIO, pop. 2740. Hôtel Amis. Surrounded by its old walls, and +at the head of a beautiful gulf. The surrounding country is fertile, but +unhealthy during the hot weather, on account of the miasma rising from +the morasses and lagoons. To the N. of Porto, the mountains still +approach near to the sea; but beyond Solenzara (where the diligence +halts) 41½ miles from Bonifacio, they recede and leave free those great +undulating plains which characterise the eastern coast of +Corsica--plains almost uninhabited and covered with heaths. From the +north side of the Travo commences a series of large lakes swarming with +fish and a kind of cockle. They are separated from the sea by long +narrow sandbanks, like earthen break-waters. The malaria prevails from +June to October, but even then only the night should be avoided in +travelling along this coast. The road after passing by the hamlet of +Favona, 33 m., arrives at + +[Headnote: SOLENZARA.] + +{45}{58} +SOLENZARA. Whence a wheel road extends westwards into the forest of + Bavella by the Col Bavella 18½ m. S.W., and the Col Scalella, 22 m., + 2982 ft. to Zonza, 24½ m. from Solenzara; 4 m. farther is the + village of S. Gavino di Carbini, 2292 ft., and other 2½ m. the + village of Levie; 30 m. S.W. from Solenzara, and 10½ from Propriano + is S. Lucia de Tallano, on the highroad to Aullene (see p. 27), and + for continuation of this road to Propriano see p. 26. + +The road to Bastia, after passing the Travo, 44 m., Vicchiseri, 46 m., +and Casamozza, 48½ m., arrives at the railway station of + +[Headnote: GHISONACCIA.] + +{53}{50} +GHISONACCIA, pop. 850. On the Fium Orbo, 36 m. S.E. from Corté. + From this a department road of 4½ m. leads to the hot sulphurous + baths of Pietrapola, with a large hotel in a healthy situation. + + From Ghisonaccia a carriage road extends N.W. to the villages of + Poggio-di-Nazza, 9½ m., and Lugo-di-Nazza, 11½ m. From Ghisonaccia + railway station a forest road extends 18 m. N.W. to Ghisoni, where + it joins the high road between Sartène and Vivario (p. 29). The + southern prolongation of this road leads to Zicavo, Petreto, + Bicchisano, and Portopollo, on the Gulf of Valinco. + +Forty-six m. from Bastia is Casabianda. H. Perett; a village situated on +a well-cultivated estate belonging to the government; formerly used as +an agricultural penitentiary for juvenile criminals. In the hot season +it is safer to pass the night at Casabianda than at Aleria. + +[Headnote: ALERIA.] + + miles from BONIFACIO + miles to BASTIA + +{58¼}{44¾} +ALERIA. Inn. The capital of Corsica till the invasion of the Saracens in +the 4th cent., now a poor village with an old Genoese fort, situated at +the mouth of the Tavignano, 1¼ m. from the Etang de Diane. Ancient +Aleria, the colony founded by the dictator Sulla about 82 B.C., occupied +both banks of the Tavignano, which waters one of the finest plains in +the world, where winter is unknown. The site of the town was well +selected. The population was probably 20,000. + +It was at Aleria that Theodore Neuhoff, a native of Altona, in Germany, +landed to have himself proclaimed King of Corsica, March 1736. He died a +pauper in London, and was buried in an obscure corner of St. Anne's +churchyard, Soho. On a mural tablet against the exterior wall, west end, +is the following epitaph written by Horace Walpole:--"Near this place is +interred Theodore, King of Corsica, who died in this parish, Dec. 11, +1756, immediately after leaving the King's Bench prison, by the benefit +of the Act of Insolvency. In consequence of which, he registered his +kingdom of Corsica for the use of his creditors." His capital was +Cervione. The lake de Diane is a great sheet of salt water with one +narrow opening to the sea. It formed the harbour of Aleria, and was +provided with quays, of which a vestige still remains. The lake contains +an island 460 yards in circumference, composed of oyster shells covered +with luxurious vegetation. Fish, and a cockle a species of Venerupis, +inhabit the brackish water of the lake. + +ALERIA TO CORTÉ. + +Coach every other day; fare, 5 francs; time, 4 hours. + + Thirty-one and a half m. N.W., by a picturesque road up the + course of the Tavignano, passing Cateraggio, 2 m., Rotani, 5 m., + commencement of bridle path leading N. to Tallone, 7½ m., Tox, + 9½ m., Campo, 11 m., and Moïta, 12½ m. Seven m. farther up the main + road a ramification extends N. to Giuncaggio, 4½ m., and to + Pancheraccia, 5½ m. + + Up the main road, 21½ m. from Aleria, and near the bridge across + the Vecchio, a bridle path strikes off S. to Rospigliani, 5 m., and + Vezzani, 6½ m. A little higher a ramification extends 5 m. W. to + Serraggio (p. 8). The road, after passing several other ramifications + with the Corté and Ajaccio road, arrives at Corté, p. 8. + + Ten m. W. from Aleria are the cold saline sulphurous springs of + Puzzichello, 190 ft., considered efficacious in the cure of + syphilitic diseases, resembling in this property the water of Aulus + in the Pyrenees. See Black's _South France_, West Half (Pyrenees). + +[Headnote: PRUNETE.--CERVIONE.--ALESANI.] + + miles from BONIFACIO + miles to BASTIA + +{79}{24} +PRUNETE. _Inn:_ Gaetan. Junction with road to Ponte alla Leccia, 44 m. +N.W. (p. 9), leading through a region of chestnut trees and past many +villages on the mountains, built chiefly on terraces. A coach runs from +the station to Alesani called also Castagneto 1938 ft. 14 m. W.; + ascending by Muchieto 808 ft. 3¾ m., Cervione 1073 ft. 4½ m., pop. + 1000; _Inns:_ France: Voyageurs: an untidy village, once the capital + of King Theodore's realm. From Cervione the road describes a long + detour to the bridge across the Chebbia, whence it ascends to Cotone + 1008 ft 6¼ m., the Col d'Aja 1236 ft., and Ortale 1489 ft., 1¾ m. + from Alesani. Good red wine is made in the neighbourhood of + Cervione. The dirty little village of Castagneto or Alesani is + picturesquely situated on the side of a mountain overlooking a + valley covered with chestnut trees. The diligence stops at an inn, + where bread, eggs and coffee with goats' milk can be had and a + comfortable bed. A char-a-banc from this inn to Piedicroce (Orezza) + costs 10 frs., time 2½ hours, 11 miles. For Orezza, see p. 34. + Passengers from Prunete to Piedicroce or Stazzona should not stop at + Cervione but continue the diligence route to Castagneto, whence + start next morning. The drive between Castagneto and Piedicroce, 11 + miles, is by far the most beautiful part of the road. The highest + part of the Col d'Arcarotta is a narrow ridge between the valleys of + Orezza and Ortia, commanding a charming view. See also p. 35. + +{87¼}{24¾} +PADULELLA. Four and a quarter miles west by a good road is San Nicolao, +pop. 600. + +[Headnote: STAZZONA.] + +{84¼}{18¾} +FOLELLI-Orezza station. Junction with road to Piedicroce 14¼ m. S.W.; + by the course of the Fium'alto, the Chestnut country, and the + village of Stazzona, 13¼ m. from Folelli, ¼ m. from and 355 ft. + under Piedicroce, and 1 m. from and 200 ft. above the spring of + Orezza. The coach from the station stops at Stazzona, pop. 250. + _Hotels_: *Paix, Casino. Very fine oleanders in the gardens. On the + opposite side of the valley of the Fium'alto is Granajola, with the + establishment Manfredi, 2016 ft. above the sea and 220 feet above + the spring. The hotel Manfredi has the most select society, is the + largest house, and its road from the spring is the least dusty; but + as no public coach goes there it is necessary to hire a private + conveyance either at Stazzona or Piedicroce, 3 or 4 miles. The + charge in all the hotels is 7 frs. per day, not including coffee or + tea in the morning. The hotels of Stazzona and the hotel Manfredi + are the most convenient for the Spa drinkers; those of Piedicroce + are too distant. + +[Headnote: OREZZA.] + + The Orezza spring is in the centre of a small terrace in the narrow + valley of the Fium'alto, whose steep banks are covered with chestnut + trees, and ascended by dusty winding roads. The water is a + bicarbonate chalybeate, with an agreeable amount of free carbonic + acid gas. + +[Headnote: VESCOVATO.] + +{89}{14} +VESCOVATO STATION. Town 1¼ m. W., pop. 1500. + *H. de Progreso in the large "Place" where all the coaches stop, + near a fountain of pure gushing water, cold even in summer. The + rather untidy town of Vescovato is almost hidden in the corner of a + valley, 550 ft. above the sea, by woods of vigorous olive and + chestnut trees. From it a coach starts daily to Porta, 15 m. W., by + a bad, dusty, jolting road, passing through Venzolasca, pop. 1300, + on the top of a hill, 732 ft., 1½ m. from Vescovato. Three m. + farther a road, left, 1 m., leads to Porri, 1718 ft., pop. 300. + 7½ m. from Vescovato is the Col S. Agostino, and then follow, 8 m., + Silvareccio, 2198 ft., pop. 550; 8½ m., Piano, 2230 ft., pop. 170; + Casabianca, 4 m. farther, 2133 ft.; and then Porta, pop. 630; _Inn:_ + H. Franceschi, in the "Place," opposite the church, where the coach + stops. In July and August the coach goes on to Piedicroce. + +{91}{12} +PONT DU GOLO. A little more than 3 miles from the bridge, at the mouth +of the river, stood the town of Mariana, founded by Marius (B. 155, D. +86 B.C.), where Seneca most probably spent his exile, and of which there +remain only a few insignificant fragments on the beach. In the vicinity +are the ruins of a chapel, and about a mile farther those of the church, +called La Canonica, with 2 aisles and a nave 100 feet long and 40 wide, +ornamented with rows of pillars of the Doric order. Both church and +chapel are in the Pisan style. + +At Casamozza Station, 12½ m. S. from Bastia, the Aleria railway joins +the one from Corté. + +{103} +BASTIA. See p. 10. + + +Ponte alla Leccia to Piedicroce. + + Eighteen miles S.E. by "Courrier" daily. Fare 3 frs. Time 5 hours, + by a mountain road, making immense circuits round by the heads of + ravines among rich pastures and great chestnut and beech trees. + + Nine miles from the Ponte is Morosaglia, pop. 1060, with an inn, + where the coach stops. A conglomeration of hamlets on the slopes of + a mountain, one of which, Stretta, was the birthplace of Pascal + Paoli. 2 m. farther is the summit of the Col de Prato with an inn, + 3215 ft., 2850 ft. below, or 3 hours from the top of San Pietro, + commanding a magnificent view of the Castagniccia or the Chestnut + country, and the islands of Monte Christo, Pianosa, and Elba, + floating in the haze between sky and water. See map on fly-leaf. + +[Headnote: CASTAGNICCIA.] + + The Castagniccia may be said to lie between the Golo and the + Tavignano, bounded on the W. by the railway. The chestnut trees are + not so famous for their size as for the qualify of their fruit. + + The coach having passed the hamlet of Campana arrives at + +[Headnote: PIEDICROCE.] + + Piedicroce, pop. 600, several inns, 2104 ft., 18 m. from Ponte + alla Leccia, and 650 ft. above the spring of Orezza by a winding, + dusty, bad wheel road, passing Stazzona 1978 ft. above the sea. + + Although Piedicroce is not a suitable place for those who come to + drink the Orezza water, it is an excellent centre for excursions, + the favourite one being to the top of Monte S. Pietro 5795 ft. in + 3 hours, by the cabins of Tajalto 4600 ft., and a beech forest. Mule + to nearly the top. Guide and mule, 5 frs. See also above. + + Coach in July and August to the Vescovato station by Porta, p. 34. + + +Piedicroce to Prunete Station, 26 m. S.E. + +The continuation of the road from Ponte alla Leccia. + + From Piedicroce the road passes by Pied'Orezza, 2106 ft., 1¾ m. from + Piedicroce, Piedipartino, 2124 ft., 2 m.; Carcheto, 2172 ft., 3m.; + Brustico, 2293 ft. 4 m.; the Col d'Arcarotta, 2698 ft., 5¼ m. from + Piedicroce, between the richly wooded valleys of the Fium'alto and + the Alesani, and commanding a very fine view of both. From this the + road gradually descends to Prunete, the most beautiful part being + from this Col to Castagneto called also Alesani, where there is an + inn and whence a coach starts daily to Prunete Railway Station. + +[Headnote: CASTAGNETO.] + + Seven miles from Piedicroce and 2 from the Col is Ortia, 2638 ft., + pop. 400, hidden among chesnut trees; Felce, 2570 ft., 8¾ m., + pop. 400; Pied Alesani 11 m.; Querceto, 2041 ft., and Castagneto + or Alesani, 1938 ft., 12 m. from Piedicroce and 14 from Prunete + Railway Station, the principal village in this valley. + + A little below Castagneto, at the commencement of this chestnut + wooded valley is Ortale, 1489 ft., pop. 280. The coach then having + passed Cotone 1008 ft., 19¼ m., pop. 800, and having crossed the + little bridge over the stream Chebbia arrives at Cervione, _Inn_, + France: 1073 ft., 21¾ m. from Piedicroce, and 4¼ from Prunete. From + Cervione another coach descends to Prunete Railway Station by + Muchieto 820 ft. Prunete consists of a few houses near the beach, + resorted to by bathers in summer, situated on the highway between + Bastia and Bonifacio. See also p. 33. + + +Solenzara to Sartène, + + 46 m. S.W. This forest road, No. 4, ascends the valley of the + Solenzara, crosses the great S.E. range at the Col de Bavella, + descends into the valley of the Rizzanese, passes through the + villages of Zonza, San Gavino, Levie, and Ste. Lucie, and joins the + highroad between Ajaccio and Bonifacio at the milestone 76·690 + (47¾ m.) from Ajaccio, 3¾ m. from Sartène, and 42 m. from Solenzara. + +The road, after passing up by the S. side of the river through olive +groves and "maquis," arrives at the Col and Maison de Cantonniers de +Castelluccio, 210 ft., 4 m. from Solenzara. Two m. farther by the Pont +de Ghiadole, the road crosses the Solenzara by the Calzatojo bridge, +6 m. from Solenzara, 340 ft., winds upward by the deep gully of the +Fiumicello, which having crossed by the bridge 7¼ m. from Solenzara, +ascends a steep winding road bordered with great trees to the Maison de +Cantonniers de Rocchio-Pinzuto, 8¾ m., 1060 ft., at the foot of the +great cliff of that name. + +The road still winding upwards passes the immense wall of reddish cliffs +called the Rochers de Bavella before arriving at the Col de Larone +10¾ m., 2056 ft. The road, still winding, ascends a huge promontory +between the torrents Fiumicello and S. Pietro, separating into two +distinct parts the forest of Bavella, and crosses the Pont de Bocintoro, +1510 ft., 12 m. A little farther, in a wild yet beautiful situation, +is the Maison de Cantonniers d'Arghiavara. From the Pont 1½ m. is the +better house, la maison forestière de l'Alza, commanding superb views, +situated among great trees and nursery gardens. + +The ascent from this is by a steep road, almost impracticable for +vehicles, through a forest of the stateliest and oldest pines in +Corsica. + +18 m. from Solenzara and 28 from Sartène is the Maison de Cantonniers de +Bavella, 3885 ft., near the summit of the Col Bavella, 4068 ft. In this +house of refuge there is generally comfortable accommodation and a +supply of provisions. The surrounding huts are occupied in July and +August by people from the plains about Solenzara, who come here to +escape the fever-producing malaria. The house commands, even from the +windows, grand views. + +On the other side of the Col, 550 ft. below it and 2¼ m. from it, is the +Maison de Cantonniers de Ballatojo, from which the road descends amidst +great pines mixed with a few oaks and ilexes, in view of the Asinao +forest and of the lofty granite pinnacled precipices, 10 m. long, +between Mt. Colva, 4520 ft., and the Point Tintinaja, 6658 ft. + +Zonza, good inn, pop. 1040, height 2582 ft., 24¼ m. from Solenzara and +21¾ m. from Sartène, hidden among chestnut trees and conveniently +situated for visiting the forests of Zonza, Asinao, and Bavella. + +[Headnote: S. GAVINO.] + +3½ m. beyond is San Gavino di Carbini, pop. 770, height 2238 ft., a poor +miserable village, where there existed in 1365 a sect of socialists, +with whom even the women and children were held in common, and by whom +were committed frightful abominations. + +[Headnote: LEVIE.] + +30 m. from Solenzara and 16 m. from Sartène is Levie, consisting of +various hamlets. Inn where the coach, running between this and Sartène, +stops. Pop, 2040, height 2238 ft This village, easily approached, is +situated among mountains abounding with game. It commands superb views, +and makes in April a very pleasant residence. In winter it is rather +cold. On the road between Levie and Santa Lucia di Tallano, 5 ½ m. from +the Col d'Aja Vignarsa, 2408 ft., are seen the valley of the Rizzanese +and the Gulfs of Valinco and Ajaccio. On the grassy table lands of the +Col d'Aja are many rare flowers, among others a species of red +gladiolus. + +[Headnote: S. LUCIA DI TALLANO.] + +5½ m. W. from Levie and 11¼ from Sartène is Santa Lucia di Tallano, pop. +1300, Inn where the Sartène and Levie coach stops. S. Lucia is built in +terraces on the hills rising from the Fiumicicoli. Church 14th cent. The +wines grown in this neighbourhood command good prices in the Corsican +market. + +Below, on the Fiumicicoli, is a hot sulphurous spring. On the way down +to the river by the sides of the Point Campolaccia, near a place called +Campolajo, is beautiful hornblende, page 27. + +From Santa Lucia the road leads southwards by the Rizzanese to Sartène, +p. 27. + + + + +SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF CORSICA. + +It is not known who the original inhabitants of Corsica were. The +Phocæans of Ionia were the first civilised people that established +settlements in Corsica. About the year 560 B.C. they landed on the +island, and founded at the mouth of the Tavignano the city of Aleria, +which after a short occupation they were compelled to abandon. After an +interval of a few years they again returned, rebuilt Aleria, which they +fortified, and endeavoured to maintain their ground against the natives. +After a struggle of some years they were again compelled to leave the +island. The next foreign occupants of Corsica were the Tuscans, who +founded the city of Nicæa, but they in their turn were compelled to give +way before the growing maritime power of the Carthaginians, whose +jurisdiction in the island was unquestioned till the beginning of the +first Punic War. On that occasion the Romans sent out a fleet, drove the +Carthaginians from the island, and exacted at least a nominal homage +from the native population. They did not, however, fully establish their +power here till about thirty years later, and even then rebellions and +revolts were of constant occurrence. + +[Headnote: ROMAN COLONIES.] + +The first step made towards the real subjugation of the island was the +establishment of the two colonies on its eastern coast-that of Aleria by +Sulla and that of Mariana by Marius. In the time of the emperors the +island had fallen into disrepute among the Romans, by whom it was used +chiefly as a place of banishment for political offenders. One of the +most distinguished of these sufferers was the younger Seneca, who spent +in this island eight years of banishment ending with 49 A.D. + +[Headnote: ARMS.] On the downfall of the Roman empire in the West, +Corsica passed into the hands of the Vandals. These barbarians were +driven out by Belisarius, but after his death, 565 A.D., the resistless +hordes of Attila once more gained possession of the island. Since that +period it has successively owned the dominion of the Goths, the +Saracens, the Pisans and the Genoese. The impress of the last is to be +found in the style of the church architecture, while the armorial crest +of the island, a Moor's head, with a band across the brow, dates from +the expedition of the Saracen king, Sanza Ancisa. + +The patroness of Corsica, the "Protectrice de la Corse," is Santa +Devota; who is also the patron saint of Monaco. The Corsicans often +style the Virgin Mary simply La Santa; and in their common exclamation +Santa! Maria is understood. + +[Headnote: SAMPIERO.] + +Among the most renowned and intrepid patriots in the struggle of the +Corsicans to free themselves from the Genoese was Sampiero, born of poor +parents towards the end of the 15th cent, in Dominicacci, one of the +hamlets which compose Bastelica. His house having been burned down by +the Genoese, the inhabitants in the 18th cent. constructed a new one on +the same site, on which Mr. Wyse, an Irishman, affixed a tablet with an +inscription in 1855, expressing his admiration of the man. After serving +with great distinction in the armies of the Italian princes and in those +of Francis I., King of France, Sampiero returned to Corsica in 1547 and +married the fair Vanina, heiress of Ornano, belonging to one of the +oldest families in the island. + +Shortly after the marriage the Corsicans, led by Sampiero, revolted +against the tyranny of the Banking Company of St. George of Genoa, and, +assisted by the French, under General Thermes, overthrew them after six +years of hard fighting and much bloodshed, in which Sampiero and his +peasant army bore by far the greatest share. All, however, they had +gained at such immense sacrifice was completely lost to them by the +treaty of Chateau Cambresis, 1559, by which France agreed to restore +Corsica to Genoa. Sampiero and his family had to leave the island. Such +was the virulent and implacable hatred Sampiero bore to the Genoese, +that he with his own hand, in cold blood, strangled mercilessly his +trembling wife three years after (1562) in Marseilles, for having +allowed herself, in his absence, to be persuaded to make an arrangement +with the Genoese to save the patrimony of her children. Sampiero escaped +with impunity, although he buried his murdered wife publicly, and with +pomp, in the church of St. Francis at Marseilles. + +Antonio Francesco, the younger son, who was, when a mere child, with his +mother when she was murdered, was afterwards assassinated at Rome by a +Frenchman, whom he had insulted while playing at cards. + +On the 12th June 1564 Sampiero landed at the Gulf of Valinco with a band +of 20 Corsicans and 25 Frenchmen, to make another desperate attempt to +free Corsica from the hated yoke. After a five years' life-and-death +struggle, fired by a feverish thirst for revenge, the Corsicans had to +yield to the might of Genoa, supported by well-drilled Italian, German +and Spanish mercenaries, commanded by their greatest generals, Doria, +Centurione and Spinola, and aided by a powerful fleet. + +On the 17th January 1567 Sampiero was slain in an ambuscade laid for him +in the defile of Cauro, into which he had been led by forged letters +brought him by the monk Ambrosius of Bastelica. + +His elder son Alfonso d'Ornano continued the struggle after his father's +death, till the exhausted state of Corsica compelled him to desist and +to accept a general amnesty proclaimed by the Genoese governor George +Doria in 1569. Alfonso d'Ornano was afterwards created "Maréchal de +France." + +[Headnote: PASCAL PAOLI.] + +From 1755 the Corsicans, led by the brave Pascal Paoli, carried on the +struggle for their independence against the Genoese, who were +occasionally assisted by the French. On the 15th May 1768 the former +sold their presumed claims to the island to the French, who ended this +war of subjugation by the terrible battle of Ponte Nuovo, 9th May 1769. +On the llth of June Paoli left Porto-Vecchio for London; where, at the +instance of the Duke of Grafton, then prime minister of England, he +received an annual pension of £1200. + +After Corsica had been made one of the departments of France he was +invited in 1790, by the National Assembly, to take the supreme command +in the island. On his arrival at Paris (3d April 1790), on his way to +Corsica, he was fêted as the Washington of Europe, and Lafayette was +constantly by his side; while, on his arrival at Marseilles, he was +received by a deputation, among whom was Napoleon. In July 1790 he +landed at Macinaggio, on the east side of Cap Corse. + +The execution of the king and the cruelties and excesses of the +Convention having shocked the philanthropic spirit of Paoli and +alienated his sympathies, he organised a revolt to separate Corsica from +France, and succeeded by the aid of the English fleet, 20th July 1794, +when Calvi, the last of the forts, surrendered. On the 10th of June 1794 +the Corsicans declared that they would unite their country to Great +Britain, but that it was to remain independent, and to be governed by a +viceroy according to their own constitution. + +The English, from ignorance, managed the affairs of the island so badly, +that when in 1796 Napoleon sent troops against them, they were joined by +the Corsicans, who together forced the English to leave the island. Not +only had a certain Gilbert Elliot been named viceroy instead of Paoli, +but this same man having written to the Government that it was necessary +for the safety of the English to remove Paoli from the island, George +III. wrote Paoli a letter inviting him to return to England and to his +court. It is suspected that Andrea Pozzo di Borgo, president of the +Council of State, under the short viceroyship of Elliot, influenced, for +his own ends or from jealousy, the English in Corsica against Paoli. + +Paoli lived twelve years more in London, died peacefully on 5th February +1807 at the age of 82, was buried in St. Pancras churchyard, and a small +monument to his memory was placed in Westminster Abbey. He bequeathed to +four professors of the intended Corté University salaries of £50 a year +each, but as it was never established the money was given to the Ecole +Paoli in Corté, attended by 120 pupils. + +Since the expulsion of the English, the French have remained in +undisturbed possession of Corsica. The English occupation lasted from +1794 to 1796. + +[Headnote: CHARACTER.] + +The Corsicans look to the Government for the improvement of their island +far more than to their own efforts, for they themselves are neither +industrious nor enterprising. The roads, railways, bridges and other +public works are constructed chiefly by Italian labourers. The women do +the drudgery both in their homes and on the fields, carrying great loads +on their heads, as the mules do on their backs; but bestow little labour +on the cleanliness of their children and dwellings, and do not make good +domestic servants. In many small towns women are the bread bakers and +assistant butchers. The villages, excepting in Cape Corse, are untidy. +The use of the bath is almost unknown to young and old, rich and poor. + +[Headnote: VENDETTA.] + +The tendency to take summary vengeance, called vendetta, still exists in +the villages; where the people having no social amusements, nothing to +read, nor any other resource than cards during the winter nights, are +apt to quarrel over trifles; which, fanned by their local petty +jealousies, assisted often by the generous nature of their wine, ripen +into deadly feuds. + +[Headnote: OAKS.] + +The staple food of the majority of the inhabitants, as well as of the +horses and mules, during a great part of the year, is the chestnut. For +domestic purposes it is mostly ground, when it costs only about half the +price of wheat flour, which is procured chiefly from Marseilles, Corsica +itself producing very little. The ease with which the harvest of +chestnuts is annually obtained tends to foster indolence and deaden +enterprise among the peasantry. The one great danger to which the +generous chestnut trees are exposed is a conflagration. Besides olives, +pines, beeches and chestnuts, there are also important forests of +evergreen oaks, the Quercus Ilex, called also the holm oak. It has +abundance of dark-green ovate leaves, mostly prickly at the margin; the +acorns are oblong on short stalks; the stem grows to the height of 80 +ft.; the wood is dark-brown and hard, weighing 70 lbs. the cubic foot, +while the same of the Quercus ruber or British oak weighs only 55 lbs., +and the tree attains a vast age. The cork oak, Quercus suber, grows +either singly among other trees or in groups, principally in the +southern parts of the island. The bark is of little commercial +importance. + +[Headnote: AGRICULTURE.] + + The inhabitants do not assist nature. Their seed potatoes are of an + inferior class, their fruit trees receive little attention, very few + of the vineyards are carefully cultivated, and their sheep, goats + and pigs are of poor breeds. Of late years many have taken to the + growing of lemons and citrons; which in a good year yield a very + handsome profit; but the harvest, through untimely frosts, is + precarious. The headquarters of this culture is Cape Corse. The + olive trees yield a more secure though less remunerative harvest. + That terrible scourge the phylloxera has got among the vineyards, + where it is committing its usual havoc. + + The drives and pedestrian excursions about Corsica are superb, + especially along the east side and up the centre by Sartène, Zicavo + and Ghisoni (p. 27), and the road between Calvi and Ponte alla + Leccia (p. 20). There are inns in all the large villages, though the + only good and comfortable hotels are in Ajaccio. + +[Headnote: FORESTHOUSES.] + + Enterprising tourists wishing to explore the great forests and to + scale the mountains should endeavour to procure letters of + introduction from the chief forestal authorities at Ajaccio, Corté, + Bastia or Calvi to the occupants of the Maisons Forestières in the + forests to be visited. Although the gardes forestières are generally + hospitable, they are afraid to follow their inclination without + orders from their superiors. For each day in these houses 7 to 8 + frs. should be given. + + + + +INDEX. + + +AGRICULTURE 41 +Aïtone forest 18, 23 +Ajaccio 3 + Bankers 3 + Cab tariff 3 + Cathedral 5 + Climate 6 + Curiosities 6 + Drives 3 + Episcopal chapel 3 + Excursions 5 + Fountains 6 + Hotels 3 + Library 5 + Memorial chapel 5 + Mission 3 + Napoleon 4 + Picture gallery 5 + Pozzo di Borgo 4 + St. Pancras 6 + Sepulchral chapels 6 + Steamers 2 + Water-carriers 6 +Ajaccio to Bastia 7 +---- to Corté 7 +---- to Sartène 23 +---- to Vico and Evisa 22 +Albertacce 19 +Albuccia point 28 +Aleria 32 +---- to Corté 33 +---- to Puzzichello 33 +Alesani 33, 35 +Algajola 15 +Amphibole 27 +Apa 24 +---- to Zicavo 24 +Appietto 22 +Arcarotta col 33, 35 +Asco 19, 20 +Aullene 27 + +BALAGNA VALLEY 20 +Balogna 23 +Baracci baths 26 +Barcaggio 14 +Bastelica 24 +Bastia 10 +---- to Calvi 14 +---- to Cap Corse 11 +---- rail to Aleria 34 +Baths of Baracci 26 +---- of Caldaniccia 6 +---- of Guagno 23 +---- of Guitera 25 +---- of Orezza 34 +---- of Pietrapola 28, 32 +---- of Puzzichello 33 +Bavella col 26, 31, 36 +Belgodere 21 +---- to Olmi-Capella 21 +---- to Tartagine forest 21 +Bettianella lake 9 +Bevinco 10 +Bianca bocca 22 +Bicchisano 26 +Biguglia lake 10 +Bocca Melza 16 +Bocognano 7 +Bonifacio 30 + Caves 31 + Charles V. 30 + Napoleon 30 +Bonifacio to Bastia 31 +Borgo 10 +Botticella 14 +Brando cave 10, 12 +Brustico 35 + +CALACUCCIA 19 +Calasima 19 +Calcatoggio 17 +Caldanella 17 +Caldaniccia 6 +Calenzana 22 +Calenzana 15 +Calvi 15 +---- to Ajaccio 16 +---- to Bastia 20 +Campo 25 +Cap Corse 11 +Capella mount 27 +Capronale col 16 +Cargese 17 +Cargiaca 27 +Carrosaccia 6 +Casabianca 34 +Casabianda 32 +Casamaccioli 19 +Casamozza 34 +Cassalabriva 26 +Castagneto 33, 35 +Castagniccia 35 +Castellaccio col 16 +Castello punta 24 +Castiglione 20 +Cauro 23 +---- to Bastelica 24 +Celaccia col 26 +Cervione 33, 35 +Character 40 +Chestnut trees 1, 41 +Chidazzo 18 +Cineraggia mount 21 + bocca 22 +Cinto mount 1, 19, 20 +Climate 2 +Coast lakes 10, 31, 32 +Corona mount 19, 21 +Corsican arms 38 +---- character 40 +---- dimensions 1 +---- patroness 38 +Corscia 19 +Corté 8 +---- to Aleria 8 +---- to Mt. Rotondo 8 +Coscione mount 25 +Cotone 33, 35 +Cozzano 27 +Cristinacce 17 +Cuculla mount 18 + +DENTE CAPO 21 +Diana lake 32 +Dominicacci 24 +Don Giovanni mount 27 + +ELSE VALLEY 24 +Erbajo col 8, 16 +Erbalunga 12 +Ersa 14 +Escutcheon 38 +Evergreen oaks 41 +Evisa 18, 23 +---- to Albertacce 18 + +FELCE 35 +Feliceto 21, 22 +Fium Orbo source 28 +Folelli 33 +---- to Piedicroce 33 +Francardo bridge 9, 20 +Frasseto 24, 25 + +GALERIA 16 +---- to forests of Filosorma 16 +Ghisonaccia 32 +---- to Ghisoni 29 +Ghisoni 29 +---- to Ghisonaccia 29 +Giraglia island 14 +Golo source 19 +Gozzi mount 22 +Granace col 25 +Grosso mount 21 +Guagno baths 23 +Guitera baths 25 + +HISTORY 37 +Houses of shelter 41. See also under "Maison." + +ILE ROUSSE 15 +Incudine mount 25 +Inzecca 29 +Isolaccio 28 + +KYRIE ELEISON 28 + +LACCIOLA COL 17 +La Piana 17 +Larone col 26, 36 +Lavatoggio 21 +Leone coronato 30 +Levie 26, 32, 37 +Lonca valley 16 +Lozzi 19 +Lugo 8 +Lugo di Nazza 32 +Lumio 15 +Luri 12 + +MACINAGGIO 13, 39 +Maddalena isle 25 +Maison Aïtone 18 +---- Alza 36 +---- Arghiavara 36 +---- Ballatojo 36 +---- Bavella 36 +---- Canareccia 28 +---- Castellaccio 18 +---- Castelluccio 36 +---- Ghiraldino 28 +---- Marmano 28 +---- Ometa 16 +---- Popaja 19 +---- Rocchio-Pinzuto 36 +---- S. Antoine 28 +---- Sciattarina 18 +---- Scrivano 28 +---- Tagnone 18 +---- Zipitoli 24 +Manganella col 9 +Mariana 34 +Marmano forest 28 +Menta col 24 +Moltifao 20 +Moor's head 38 +Morosaglia 35 +Morsaglia 14 +Mouflon 2 +Muchieto 33, 35 + +NAPOLEON 4, 26, 30 +Nelson 26 +Nino lake 19 +Niolo 19 +Nonza 12, 14 + +OLIVESE 27 +Olive trees 20 +Olmeto 26 +Olmi-Capella 21 +Ometa ilex forest 16 +Oninanda col 20 +Orezza spa 34 +Oro mount 1 +Ortale 33, 35 + +PADRO MOUNT 1, 21 +Padulella 33 +Pagliorba mount 1 +Palasca 22 +Palneca 28 +Pancheraccia 33 +Paoli 39 +Patron Saint 38 +Pecorile 14 +Perticato forest 16 +Pertusato mount 31 +Petrella col 19 +Piano 34 +Piedicroce 34, 9, 35 +---- to Prunete 35 +Pietrapola baths 28, 32 +Pines 7 +Pino 12, 14 +Pinus Laricio 7 +Pinus Pinaster 7 +Poggio di Nazza 32 +Pont Diable 20 +Pont du Golo 34 +Ponte alla Leccia 9, 22 +---- to Calvi 20 +---- to Piedicroce 34 +Ponteniello forest 24 +Ponte Novo 9, 22 +Popolasca 20 +Porri 34 +Porta 34 +Porto 16 +---- to Evisa 18 +---- to Ponte Francardo 18 +Portopollo 32 +Porto-Vecchio 31 +Prato col 35 +Propriano 26 +---- to Solenzara 26 +Prunelli source 28 +Prunete 33, 35 +---- to Alesani 33 + +QUERCUS ILEX 41 + +RAPARA COL 28 +Renoso mount 7, 24 +Retto mount 19 +Rogliano 13 +Rotondo mount 1, 8 + +SAGONA 17, 23 +---- to Aitone forest 17 +---- to Vico 23 +St. Antoine col 23 +---- Bernardino col 14 +---- Colombano col 22 +---- Devota 38 +---- Florent 14 +---- Georges col 24 +---- Gavino di Carbini 37 +---- Lucia di Tallano 26, 27, 32, 37 +---- Lucie col 12 +---- Maria Siché 24 +---- Nicolao 33 +---- Pietro mount 35 +---- Sebastien col 22 +---- Severa 12 +Salario fountain 6 +Sampiero 24, 38 +Sartène 27 +---- to Bonifacio 30 +---- to Vivario 27 +Scala di Santa Regina 10 +Scozzolatojo col 29 +Scrivano col 28 +Sea-urchins 22 +Sebastien col 17 +Seneca's tower 12 +Serra col 14 +Serraggio 8, 33 +Sevi col 17 +Silvareccio 34 +Solenzara 31 +---- to Sartène 36 +---- to Zonza 31 +Sollacaro 26 +Sorba col 29 +Speloncato 21 +Spelunca 18 +Sposata 25 +Stazzona 34 +Steamers 2, 10, 11 +Stretta 35 + +TACA FOREST 27 +Tafonato mount 16, 18 +Taravo source 28 +Tartagine forest 21 +Teghime col 14 +Theodore Neuhoff 32 +Torre all'Osse 12 +Traunato mount 20 +Treccio ilex forest 16 + +UCCIANI BRIDGE 7 +Uomo di Cagna 30 + +VADINA 8 +Valdoniello forest 18, 23 +Vanina 25, 38 +Vecchio source 28 +Vendetta 40 +Venzolasca 34 +Verde col 28 +Verde forest 28 +Vergio col 18 +Vescovato 34 +---- to Porta 34 +Vico 23 +Ville 21 +Vivario 8, 29 +---- to Pietrapola 8 +---- to Sartène 27 +Vizzavona 7 + +WINES 2, 11 +Wyse, W., 24 + +ZECAVO 25 +Zicavo 25, 27, 28 +Zonza 26, 31, 36 + + +THE END. + + + + +Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, _Edinburgh + + + + + * * * * * + + + + +Errors and Uncertainties noted by Transcriber + +When the Index and body text disagreed on spelling, the form shown in +the General Map was used. The abbreviation "ft" has been regularized to +"ft." where full stop was missing or invisible. + +_Inconsistencies (as alphabetized in Index, where applicable)_ + +Between the 51st and 53d kilomètre stones +60 kilometres-stone, + _inconsistency in original_ +Calenzana (pg 15) + _Index entry reads "Calenzani", but body text has "Calenzana"; it + appears to refer to the same place as the earlier Index entry + "Calenzana"_ +Granace (col) + _body text "Garanace", Index "Garance", Map "Granace". The Map's + spelling was used because it can be found in modern sources._ +PONTE NOVO. The site of the disastrous battle ... +The Ponte Nuovo is distinctly ... +... the terrible battle of Ponte Nuovo ... +[Index] Ponte Novo 9, 22 + _the General Map and the town description (p. 9) use the "Novo" + spelling; other references (p. 22, 39) use "Nuovo". The Index as + printed had parallel entries for each spelling, omitting p. 39_ +Col St. Sebastien [text and Index] +Col Sebastien [text and Index] + _variant forms of same name_ +Zicavo ... 2385 ft. +Zicavo, 2445 ft. + _same place: map has 2345 ft._ + +_Errors_ + +[Contents] +Ajaccio to Sartène + _text reads "Sarténe"_ +Portotorres, at the north-west extremity of Sicily + _error for Sardinia_ +and other 2½ m. the village of Levie + _error for "and another"?_ +S. Lucia de Tallano, on the highroad to Aullene + _text reads "Lucie"_ +Ortia, 2638 ft., pop. 400, hidden among chestnut trees + _text reads "chesnut trees"_ +From 1755 the Corsicans, led by the brave Pascal Paoli + _text reads "Corscians"_ +Quercus Ilex + _text and Index: should be "Quercus ilex"_ +[Index] +(Ajaccio) to Corté + _page reference missing from text_ + _may be intentional: Corté is on Ajaccio-Bastia itinerary_ +Corscia + _not an error here: "Corscia" is the name of a village_ +Levie + _text has "Levie 37, 32" only_ + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARY THROUGH CORSICA*** + + +******* This file should be named 19882-8.txt or 19882-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/8/8/19882 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://www.gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: +https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + diff --git a/19882-8.zip b/19882-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..addbd43 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-8.zip diff --git a/19882-h.zip b/19882-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aabe381 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h.zip diff --git a/19882-h/19882-h.htm b/19882-h/19882-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..96a39f5 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/19882-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5305 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Itinerary through Corsica, by Charles Bertram Black</title> +<style type = "text/css"> + +body {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + +hr {width: 80%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em;} +hr.mid {width: 50%;} +hr.tiny {width: 20%;} + +sup {font-size: 75%} +img {border: none; margin: 0em;} + +a:link, a:visited {text-decoration: none; color: #009; +background-color: inherit;} +a.tag {vertical-align: .3em; font-size: 80%; line-height: 0em;} + +div.itinerary {margin-left: 8%; margin-right: 6%;} + +h1, h2, h3, h4, h5, h6 {text-align: center; font-style: normal; +font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.5; margin-top: .5em; margin-bottom: +.5em;} + +h1 {font-size: 200%;} +h2 {font-size: 150%;} +h3 {font-size: 133%;} +h4 {font-size: 120%;} +h5 {font-size: 100%;} +h5.itinerary {font-weight: bold; margin-top: 1em;} +h6 {font-size: 85%;} + +h1.pg {text-align: center; font-style: normal; +font-weight: bold; line-height: 1.0; margin-top: 0em; margin-bottom: +0em;} + +h5.pg {text-align: center; font-style: normal; +font-weight: bold; line-height: 1.0; margin-top: 0em; margin-bottom: +0em;} + +p, blockquote {margin-top: .5em; margin-bottom: 0em; line-height: 1.2;} + +p.illustration {text-align: center; margin-top: 1em; +margin-bottom: .5em;} +p.caption {text-align: center; margin-top: .5em; margin-bottom: 1em; +font-variant: small-caps;} + +p.hanging {margin-left: 1em; text-indent: -1em; clear: right;} + +p.headnote {margin: 1em 0% .5em -12.5%;} +span.headnote {background-color: #DDD; color: #222; padding: +.3em 2em .2em; border-top: 1px solid #CCC; border-bottom: 1px solid +#CCC; font-variant: small-caps;} + + +/* tables */ + +table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 1em; +margin-bottom: 1em;} +table.index {width: 100%;} + +table.floatright {float: right; margin: 0em 0em 0em 1em;} + +td {vertical-align: top; text-align: left; padding: .1em .5em;} + +td.number {text-align: right;} + +/* conditional */ +table p {margin-top: 0em; margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em; +line-height: normal;} +table p.inset {margin-left: 3em;} +table p.nohang {margin-top: .3em; text-indent: 0em;} + +table.toc td.number {vertical-align: bottom;} +table.index td {padding-top: 1em;} + +div.itinerary p.headnote {margin-left: -25%;} + +/* spans */ + +span.miles {padding: .4em 1.2em; border: 1px solid #CCC; +margin: .2em 0em 0em 0em; font-size: 85%; font-weight: bold; +text-align: center;} +.miles.from {float: left; clear: left; margin-right: .5em;} +.miles.to {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: .5em;} + +span.sidenote {position: absolute; text-align: center; font-size: .8em; +font-variant: small-caps; white-space: normal;} +.sidenote.from {left: 0%; width: 16%;} +.sidenote.from:before {content: "miles from";} +.sidenote.to {right: 0%; width: 14%;} +.sidenote.to:before {content: "miles to";} + +span.price {float: right; padding: 0em 0em 0em 2em; margin-bottom: .5em; +text-indent: 0em;} + +.hidden {display: none;} +.invisible {visibility: hidden;} + +/* text formatting */ + +.chapter {margin-top: 4em;} +.section {margin-top: 2em;} +.space {margin-top: 1em;} +.nospace {margin-top: 0em;} + +.smaller {font-size: 92%; line-height: normal;} +.smallroman {font-size: 0.8em;} +.smallcaps {font-variant: small-caps; font-style: normal;} +.extended {letter-spacing: 0.2em;} +.sans {font-family: sans-serif;} +.ital {font-style: italic;} +.boldf {font-weight: bold;} +.plaintext {font-weight: normal; font-style: normal;} + +/* correction popup */ + +ins.correction {text-decoration: none; border-bottom: thin dotted red;} + +/* page number, left margin */ + +.pagenum {position: absolute; right: 3%; font-size: 95%; +font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; text-align: right; +color: #444; background-color: inherit; text-indent: 0em;} + +/* Transcriber’s Note */ + +.mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; +margin: 1em 5%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 90%;} + + hr.full { width: 100%; + height: 5px; } + pre { font-size: 75%; } + +</style> +</head> +<body> +<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Itinerary through Corsica, by Charles Bertram +Black</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: Itinerary through Corsica</p> +<p> by its Rail, Carriage & Forest Roads</p> +<p>Author: Charles Bertram Black</p> +<p>Release Date: November 20, 2006 [eBook #19882]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARY THROUGH CORSICA***</p> +<br><br><center><h5 class="pg">E-text prepared by Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso,<br> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br> + (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net/">http://www.pgdp.net/</a>)<br> + from page images generously made available by the<br> + Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica)<br> + (<a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/">http://gallica.bnf.fr/</a>)</h5></center><br><br> +<table border=0 bgcolor="ddddee" cellpadding=10> + <tr> + <td valign="top"> + Note: + </td> + <td> + Images of the original pages are available through + La Bibliothèque nationale de France. See + <a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1034792"> + http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1034792</a> + </td> + </tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<p class = "mynote"> +Transcriber's note:<br> +<br> +A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the +text with <ins class = "correction" title = "like this">mouse-hover +popups</ins>. Additional transcriber's notes are at the end of the book. +</p> +<br> +<br> +<hr class="full" noshade> + + +<!--png 002--> +<p class = "illustration"> +<a name = "map1" id = "map1" href = "images/map1.png"> +<img src = "images/map1thumb.png" width = "427" height = "323" +alt = "map of the Riviera and Corsica" +title = "map of the Riviera and Corsica"></a></p> +<p class = "caption"> +Sketch Map of the Riviera and Corsica<br> +<a href = "images/map1.png">— larger view —</a></p> + +<hr> + +<!--png 004--> +<h3 class = "chapter">CORSICA.<br> </h3> + +<hr class = "chapter"> + +<!--png 005--> + +<h5>NEW EDITIONS OF GUIDE-BOOKS FOR</h5> + +<h4><span class = "sans">FRANCE, BELGIUM, SPAIN, PORTUGAL</span><br> +AND THE CHANNEL ISLANDS.</h4> + +<h5 class = "sans">Copiously Illustrated with Maps and Plans.</h5> + +<hr class = "mid"> + +<p class = "hanging"> +<b>NORTH-FRANCE</b>—From the North Sea to the Loire, exclusive of +Paris, and from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine. 19 Maps and 21 Plans +<span class = "price">7/6</span> </p> + +<p class = "hanging"> +<b>SOUTH-FRANCE</b>—From the Loire to the Mediterranean, and from +the Bay of Biscay to the rivers Arno and Po. The island of Corsica. 40 +Maps and 27 Plans +<span class = "price">7/6</span> </p> + +<h5 class = "ital">Published also in separate Parts.</h5> + +<p class = "hanging"> +North-France, <b>WEST-HALF</b>, or <span class = "smallcaps">Normandy, +Brittany</span> and <span class = "smallcaps">Touraine</span>. 14 Maps +and 16 Plans. Eighth Edition +<span class = "price">5/ </span> </p> + +<p class = "hanging"> +<b>NORMANDY</b>: Its <span class = "smallcaps">Castles</span> and <span +class = "smallcaps">Churches</span>. Second Edition. 5 Maps and 9 Plans +<span class = "price">2/6</span> </p> + +<p class = "hanging"> +North-France, <b>EAST-HALF</b>, or <span class = "smallcaps">Picardy, +Champagne, Lorraine, Alsace</span> and part of <span class = +"smallcaps">Burgundy</span>. 5 Plans and 5 Maps. Third Edition +<span class = "price">2/6</span> </p> + +<p class = "hanging"> +South-France, <b>WEST-HALF</b>. The <span class = "smallcaps">Summer +Resorts</span> in the <span class = "smallcaps">Pyrenees; Luchon, +Bigorre, Barèges</span>, etc.; the <span class = "smallcaps">Winter +Resorts</span> of <span class = "smallcaps">Pau, Arcachon, Biarritz, St. +Jean-de-Luz, Vernet, Amélie-les-Bains</span> and <span class = +"smallcaps">Malaga</span>, and the <span class = "smallcaps">Claret-Wine +Vineyards</span> in <span class = "smallcaps">Medoc</span>. 17 Maps and +4 Plans. Fourth Edition +<span class = "price">2/6</span> </p> + +<p class = "hanging"> +South-France, <b>EAST-HALF</b>, or the <span class = +"smallcaps">Valleys</span> of the <span class = +"smallcaps">Waldenses</span>, of the <span class = +"smallcaps">Rhône</span>, the <span class = "smallcaps">Durance</span> +and the <span class = "smallcaps">Upper Loire</span>; the Baths of <span +class = "smallcaps">Vichy, Aix-les-Bains, Royat, Vals, Mont-Dore, +Bourboule, Bourbon-Lancy, Acqui, Lucca, Valdieri</span>, etc.; the <span +class = "smallcaps">Volcanic Region of Ardèche</span>; the <span class = +"smallcaps">Mountain-Passes</span> between <span class = +"smallcaps">France</span> and <span class = "smallcaps">Italy</span>; +and the <span class = "smallcaps">Riviera</span> of the <span class = +"smallcaps">Mediterranean</span> from <span class = +"smallcaps">Marseilles</span> to <span class = +"smallcaps">Leghorn</span>. 20 Plans and 21 Maps. Fourth Edition +<span class = "price">5/ </span> </p> + +<p class = "hanging"> +<b>THE RIVIERA</b>, or the <span class = +"smallcaps">Mediterranean</span> from <span class = +"smallcaps">Marseilles</span> to <span class = +"smallcaps">Leghorn</span>, including the inland towns of <span class = +"smallcaps">Pisa, Lucca, Carrara</span> and <span class = +"smallcaps">Florence</span>, and Excursions into the <span class = +"smallcaps">Maritime Alps</span>. Fourth Edition. 10 Plans and 13 Maps +<span class = "price">2/6</span> </p> + +<p class = "hanging"> +<b>CORSICA</b>, its Rail, Carriage and Forest Roads, with 6 Maps from +the latest authorities. Second Edition +<span class = "price">1/ </span> </p> + +<p class = "hanging"> +<b>BELGIUM</b>, its <span class = "smallcaps">Churches, Chimes</span> +and <span class = "smallcaps">Battlefields</span>. 9 Plans and 4 Maps +<span class = "price">2/6</span> </p> + +<p class = "hanging"> +<b>NORTH-FRANCE</b> (East-Half) and <b>BELGIUM</b> in One Volume, +including a part of <span class = "smallcaps">Holland</span>. Convenient +for those going to Aix-la-Chapelle, Spa, Vittel, Contrexéville, or any +of the Bathing Stations on the North Sea +<span class = "price">5/ </span> </p> + +<p class = "hanging"> +<b>HANDBOOK</b> for the <b>CAR-TOURIST</b> in the pleasant Islands of +<span class = "smallcaps">Jersey, Guernsey</span> and <span class = +"smallcaps">Alderney</span>. Maps and Plans. Second Edition +<span class = "price">1/ </span> </p> + +<p class = "hanging"> +<b>SPAIN</b> and <b>PORTUGAL</b>. (<span class = +"smallcaps">O’Shea.</span>) Seventh Edition. Edited by <span class = +"smallcaps">John Lomas</span>. Crown 8vo. Maps and Plans +<span class = "price">15/ </span> </p> + +<hr class = "mid"> + +<h5 class = "boldf">From “Scotsman,†June 2, 1884.</h5> + +<p class = "smaller ital"> +“C. B. Black’s Guide-books have a character of their own; and that +character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally +acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in which +only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent observer of +Continental life could afford to do. He does not ‘get up’ the places as +a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity of the case, +compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common mistakes, and to +supply information on minute points of much interest apt to be +overlooked by the hurried observer.â€</p> + + +<!--png 006--> +<hr> + +<h2>ITINERARY</h2> + +<h6>THROUGH</h6> + +<h1 class = "extended">CORSICA</h1> + +<h6>BY ITS</h6> + +<h3>RAIL, CARRIAGE & FOREST ROADS</h3> + +<p class = "illustration"> +<img src = "images/corsica.png" width = "81" height = "100" +alt = "arms of Corsica" title = "arms of Corsica"></p> + +<h6 class = "section sans">ILLUSTRATED BY FIVE MAPS AND ONE PLAN</h6> + +<h5>C. B. BLACK</h5> + +<h5 class = "section">EDINBURGH<br> +ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK<br> +1888</h5> + + + + +<span class = "pagenum">v</span> +<a name = "pagev" id = "pagev"> </a> +<!--png 008--> + +<h3 class = "chapter">CONTENTS.</h3> + +<div class = "mynote"> + +<p>The four pages consisting of the Contents and List of Illustrations +appeared twice in the original text, with identical wording and layout +except that the first group was headed “Contentsâ€, the second “Corsica.†+The duplicate text has been omitted here.</p> + +<p><a href = "#duplicate">More information.</a></p> +</div> + +<table class = "toc" summary = "table of contents"> + +<tr> +<td></td> +<td class = "number smallroman">PAGE</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = +"#corsica"><b>Corsica.</b></a>—Position—Extent—Population—Highest +Mountains—Forests—Vegetation—Aspect—Climate—Steamboats</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page1">1</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = +"#ajaccio"><b>Ajaccio.</b></a>—Hotels—Cabs—Napoleon’s +Birthplace—Memorial Chapel—Chapel of San +Antonio—Chapelle Greco—Fontaine du Salario—Family +Sepulchral Chapels—Climate—Fair of St. Pancras—Water +Carriers—Curiosities</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page3">3</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#ajaccio_to_bastia"><b>Ajaccio to Bastia by +Corté.</b></a>—This road traverses the centre of the island +diagonally, exhibits every characteristic of Corsica, crosses the +longest rivers, passes through one of the greatest forests and by some +of the highest mountains, and connects the three principal towns. Rail +between Corté and Bastia</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page7">7</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p class = "nohang"> +From Vivario, <a href = "#vivario">p. 8</a>, a road leads to the mineral +water establishment of Pietrapola. From Corté, <a href = +"#corte">p. 8</a>, the ascent is made of Mt. Rotondo. From the +Ponte Francardo, <a href = "#francardo9">p. 9</a>, the most +important of the Forest roads extends S.W. to Porto by Albertacce and +Evisa. From Albertacce the ascent is made of Mt. Cinto.</p> + +<p class = "nohang"> +The great highway traversing the island from Prunete to Calvi passes +through Ponte alla Leccia, <a href = "#leccia9">p. 9</a>. From +Bastia, <a href = "#bastia">p. 10</a>, are trains or diligences to +every part of the east coast, and steamers to Leghorn, Genoa, Nice and +Marseilles.</p> +</td> +<td></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#bastia_to_rogliano"><b>Bastia to Rogliano and +Morsaglia</b></a>, skirting the east coast of the long peninsula called +Cap Corse. This road follows more or less the level of the sea till it +reaches Macinaggio, whence it ascends to Morsaglia. The highway on the +western side of Cap Corse is cut along the flanks of the mountains, +generally at a considerable height above the sea</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page11">11</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#bastia_to_calvi"><b>Bastia to Calvi</b></a> by St. Florent +and the Ile Rousse</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page14">14</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#calvi_to_ajaccio"><b>Calvi to Ajaccio</b></a>, by Galeria, +Porto and Sagona. From Galeria and Porto great Forest roads penetrate +into the interior</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page16">16</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<span class = "pagenum">vi</span> +<a name = "pagevi" id = "pagevi"> </a> +<!--png 009--> +<p> +<a href = "#galeria_to_filosorma"><span class = +"smallcaps">Galeria</span> to the <span class = +"smallcaps">Forests</span> of <span class = +"smallcaps">Filosorma.</span></a>—Tourists should not explore any +of the great Forest roads without being provided with letters to the +dwellers in the maisons forestières and in those of the Cantonniers; see +<a href = "#maison">p. 41</a> and <a href = "#map5">map, +p. 20</a></p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page16">16</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#porto_to_francardo"><span class = "smallcaps">Porto</span> +to the <span class = "smallcaps">Ponte Francardo.</span></a>—The +most important of all the Forest roads. It passes through Evisa and by +several good “maisons forestières.†From the Col Vergio is seen Mt. +Tafanato, with its natural tunnel, and from Albertacce is commenced the +ascent of Mt. Cinto. Several mule-paths ramify from this forest road, +the most important being to Lake Nino and Corté, and to Asco: whence Mt. +Cinto is also ascended. The most famous part of the road itself is the +Scala di Santa Regina</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page18">18</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#calvi_to_bastia"><b>Calvi to Corté</b> or to <span class = +"smallcaps">Bastia</span></a> by <span class = "smallcaps">Ponte alla +Leccia.</span>—This road traverses a most picturesque country, and +the region of the finest olive trees in the island</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page20">20</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#belgodere_to_tartagine"><span class = +"smallcaps">Belgodere</span> to the <span class = +"smallcaps">Forest</span> of <span class = +"smallcaps">Tartagine.</span></a>—This forest contains few old +trees, and is not of easy access</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page21">21</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#ajaccio_to_evisa"><b>Ajaccio to Evisa</b></a>, <span class = +"smallcaps">Vico</span> and the <span class = "smallcaps">Baths</span> +of <span class = "smallcaps">Guagno</span></p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page22">22</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#ajaccio_to_sartene"><b>Ajaccio to <ins class = "correction" +title = "text reads ‘Sarténe’">Sartène</ins></b></a>, by <span class = +"smallcaps">Cauro, Apa, Olmeto</span> and <span class = +"smallcaps">Propriano</span>. See S.W. end of <a href = "#map2">general +map</a></p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page23">23</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#cauro_to_bastelica"><span class = "smallcaps">Cauro</span> +to <span class = "smallcaps">Bastelica</span></a>.—Bastelica is +the common name of a group of hamlets, in one of which Sampiero was +born. From this the ascent is made of Mt. Renoso</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page24">24</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#ajaccio_to_zicavo"><span class = "smallcaps">Ajaccio</span> +and <span class = "smallcaps">Apa</span> to <span class = +"smallcaps">Zicavo</span></a> and the <span class = +"smallcaps">Baths</span> of <span class = "smallcaps">Guitera</span>, by +Santa-Maria-Siché, Frasseto and Zecavo. S. Maria-Siché is the +birthplace of the fair and gentle Vanina. From Zicavo the ascent is made +of Mt. Incudine; whence is beheld the finest view in Corsica. See maps +on <a href = "#map1">fly-leaf</a> and fronting <a href = +"#map6">p. 27</a></p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page24">24</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#propriano_to_solenzara"><span class = +"smallcaps">Propriano</span> to <span class = +"smallcaps">Solenzara</span></a>, from the S.W. to the S.E. of the +island. This Route Forestière is better treated on <a href = +"#solenzara_to_sartene">p. 36</a>, as Solenzara to Sartène</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page26">26</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#sartene_to_corte"><b>Sartène to Corté by +Vivario</b></a>.—This is the great central highway, of which the +wildest and most difficult part is given on <a href = "#map6">map, +p. 27</a>. It leads to some fine forests, of which the best is the +Verde forest. At the most desolate portion are tolerably comfortable +maisons forestières. Vehicles should be hired either at Sartène or +Vivario, 20 to 25 frs. per day</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page27">27</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<span class = "pagenum">vii</span> +<a name = "pagevii" id = "pagevii"> </a> +<!--png 010--> +<p> +<a href = "#ghisoni_to_ghisonaccia"><span class = +"smallcaps">Ghisoni</span> to <span class = +"smallcaps">Ghisonaccia</span></a>, by the route forestière, extending +from the central main road to the Ghisonaccia railway station on the +east coast. The most dangerous part of the road is the "Passage" +Inzecca. See <a href = "#map6">map, p. 27</a></p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page29">29</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#sartene_to_bonifacio"><span class = +"smallcaps">Sartène</span> to <span class = +"smallcaps">Bonifacio</span></a></p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page30">30</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#bonifacio_to_bastia"><b>Bonifacio to Bastia</b></a> by the +fertile plains and insalubrious lakes of the east coast</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page31">31</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#aleria_to_corte"><b>Aleria to Corté</b></a> by a picturesque +road following the course of the Tavignano. Coach every other +day</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page33">33</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#prunete"><b>Prunete to Castagneto</b></a> or <span class = +"smallcaps">Alesani</span>, by coach daily. Castagneto is one of the +villages in the Castagniccia or Chestnut country. The road ascends all +the way. It, as well as most of the roads into the interior, should not +be taken till the chestnut trees are in leaf</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page33">33</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#folelli"><span class = "smallcaps">Folelli</span> to <span +class = "smallcaps">Stazzona</span></a> by coach daily. Stazzona is the +village nearest to the Spa of Orezza. The road extends to Ponte alla +Leccia</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page33">33</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#vescovato_to_porta"><span class = "smallcaps">Vescovato +Station</span> to <span class = "smallcaps">Porta</span></a>, by coach +daily, passing Vescovato, Venzolasca and Silvareccio. In summer the +coach goes on to Piedicroce</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page34">34</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#leccia_to_piedicroce"><span class = "smallcaps">Ponte alla +Leccia</span> to <span class = "smallcaps">Piedicroce</span></a> by +“Courrier†daily</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page34">34</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#piedicroce_to_prunete"><b>Piedicroce to +Prunete</b></a>-Railway Station, the finest part of the road being +between Piedicroce and Castagneto. Coach from Castagneto to Prunete by +Cervione. From Castagneto or Alesani to Prunete see Prunete to Alesani, +on <a href = "#prunete">p. 33</a></p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page35">35</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#solenzara_to_sartene"><span class = +"smallcaps">Solenzara</span>, on the S.E. coast, to <span class = +"smallcaps">Sartène</span></a>, 46 m. S.W., by a forest road with +much fine scenery</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page36">36</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#history"><span class = "smallcaps">History, Habits, +Agriculture</span></a> and <a href = "#maison"><span class = +"smallcaps">Houses of Refuge</span></a>, called "Maison" in the +index</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page37">37</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class = "sans"><br> +<a href = "#index">Index</a></td> +<td></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<span class = "pagenum">viii</span> +<a name = "pageviii" id = "pageviii"> </a> +<!--png 011--> + +<h3 class = "section">LIST OF MAPS.</h3> + +<p class = "mynote"> +Some maps have been moved from their original location as printed in the +List. Maps shown in the text are thumbnails linked to larger versions. +Blue lines and numbers were extremely faded and have been redrawn. Note +that some maps include segments of railroad which had been planned but +not completed at the time of the guidebook's publication in 1888.</p> + +<table class = "toc" summary = "list of maps"> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td class = "number smallroman">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#map1"><b>Sketch Map of the Riviera and Corsica</b></a>, +showing the relative position of their principal towns; as also the +ports connected with each other by steamboat</p></td> +<td class = "number"><i>Fly-leaf</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#map2"><b>General Map of Corsica</b></a></p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page1">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#map3"><b>Plan of Ajaccio</b></a>.—The town is built on +rising ground</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page3">3</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#map4"><b>Environs of Ajaccio</b></a></p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page6">6</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#map5"><b>The Western Central Region.</b></a>—This is +the least known and the most difficult portion of the island to +traverse. Yet easy and picturesque short excursions may be made from +Porto, Evisa and Galeria, into the forests of evergreen oaks, +etc</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page20">20</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> +<a href = "#map6"><b>Central Corsica</b></a>, or the most troublesome +part of the grand highway, which traverses Corsica from south to north, +from Sartène to Ponte alla Leccia, whence it ramifies eastward to Bastia +and westward to Calvi and Ile Rousse. It joins the railway and the road +between Ajaccio and Corté near Vivario</p></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page27">27</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + + + +<span class = "pagenum">1</span> +<a name = "page1" id = "page1"> </a> +<!--png 016--> +<h4 class = "chapter boldf"><a name = "corsica" id = +"corsica">CORSICA</a></h4> + +<table class = "floatright" summary = "map with caption"> +<tr> +<td> +<!--png 017--> +<p class = "illustration"> +<a name = "map2" id = "map2"> </a> +<a href = "images/map2.png"> +<img src = "images/map2thumb.png" width = "231" height = "439" +alt = "Corsica" title = "Corsica"></a></p> +<p class = "caption"> <!--changed paragraph format--> +Corsica<br> +<a href = "images/map2.png">— larger view +— </a></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Is situated 54 miles W. from Leghorn, 98 m. S. from Genoa, +and 106 m. S.E. from Nice. It is <a name = "corsica_dimensions" id += "corsica_dimensions">116 m. long, 52 m. broad</a>, and +contains an area of 3376 square miles; divided into 5 arrondissements, +subdivided into 62 cantons, and these again into 363 communes, with a +population of 275,000. The surface, of which little more than a tenth is +under cultivation, is composed of lofty and rugged granite mountain +chains, diverging in all directions from the culminating peaks of Mounts +<a name = "mt_cinto1" id = "mt_cinto1">Cinto</a>, 8892 ft.; <a name = +"mt_rotondo1" id = "mt_rotondo1">Rotondo</a>, 8613 ft.; <a name = +"mt_pagliorba" id = "mt_pagliorba">Pagliorba</a>, 8278 ft.; <a name = +"mt_padro1" id = "mt_padro1">Padro</a>, 7846 ft.; and <a name = "mt_oro" +id = "mt_oro">Oro</a>, 8829 ft. On the western and southern sides of the +island these ranges terminate abruptly on the shore, or run out into the +sea; while, on the eastern side, a great undulating plain intervenes +between their termination and the coast, in summer troubled with +malaria, but in a less degree than formerly.</p> + +<p>Corsica is the central region of the great plant system of the +Mediterranean. Among the many fine forests which cover the mountains, +the most important are those of Valdoniello, Filosorma, Vizzavona Verde, +Zonza, Bavella, Ometa and Calenzana. They contain noble specimens of +pines, oaks, beech, chestnut, walnut and olive trees. The cork oak forms +woods, chiefly in the south of the island. The <a name = "chestnut1" id += "chestnut1">chestnut trees</a> are as large and fruitful as the best +on the Apennines, and the nuts form the staple article of food for man +and beast during the winter months. Indeed, these glorious chestnut and +beech forests, when in full foliage, are the grand features of Corsican +scenery, which therefore cannot be seen to advantage till towards the +end of May, and if to this we add the splendid bloom of the oleanders, +not till July. “I at any rate know of no such combination of sea and +mountains, of the sylvan beauty of the north with the rich colours of +the south; no region where within so small a space nature takes so many +sublime and exquisite aspects as she does in Corsica. Palms, orange +groves, olives, vines, maize and chestnuts; the most picturesque beech +forests, the noblest pine woods in Europe; granite peaks, snows and +frozen lakes—all these are brought into the compass of a day’s +journey. Everything is as novel to the Alpine climber as if, in place of +being on a fragment of the Alps, severed only by 100 miles from their +nearest snows, he was in a different continent.‗D. W. +Freshfield, Alpine Club.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">2</span> +<a name = "page2" id = "page2"> </a> +<!--png 018--> + +<p class = "headnote"> +<span class = "headnote">Vegetation.</span></p> + +<p>The prickly pear, the American aloe, the castor-oil plant and the +fig-tree, grow wild along the coast; while a little farther upwards, on +the slopes and plateaus, the arbutus, cistus, oleander, myrtle and +various kinds of heaths, form a dense coppice, called in the island +maqui, supplying an excellent covert for various kinds of game and +numerous blackbirds. When the arbutus and myrtle berries are ripe the +blackbirds are eagerly hunted, as at that time they are plump and make +very savoury and delicate eating.</p> + +<p>There are few cows on the island, the greater part of the milk supply +being procured from goats. It is excellent, and has no rank flavour.</p> + +<p>The only remarkable creature is the <a name = "mouflon" id = +"mouflon">mouflon</a>, a species of sheep, resembling that almost +extinct animal the bouquetin or ibex of the Alps. It inhabits the +highest mountains, and though very wild is easily tamed.</p> + +<p>The best red <a name = "wines2" id = "wines2">wines</a> are grown +about Ajaccio, Tallano, Cervione and Sartene, and the best white wines +in Sari and in the valleys of Cape Corso. They improve up to twenty +years, and even up to fifty.</p> + +<p>The temperature of the <a name = "climate" id = "climate">climate of +Corsica</a> varies according to the elevation. Along the coast the sun +is warm even in January. After January the temperature rises rapidly. +The climate of the zone 2000 ft. above the sea is considerably colder +and snow generally appears there in December. The olive ripens its fruit +up to an elevation of 2000 ft. and the chestnut to 3000, where it gives +place to oaks, box trees, junipers, firs and beeches. The greater part +of the population inhabits the region of the chestnut trees, in villages +scattered over the mountain slopes, valleys and tablelands.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "ajaccio_steamers" id = +"ajaccio_steamers"> +<span class = "headnote"> +Steamboats.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<b>Steamers to Corsica.</b>—For invalids the easiest way is by the +large weekly Tunis steamer of the Compagnie Generale Transatlantique, 12 +R. de la Republique, which on its way from and to Marseilles, touches at +Ajaccio, 211 m. S., in 16 to 19 hrs., fare including meals, 38 frs. +The Compagnie Insulaire, 29 R. Cannebière, have boats every week for +Ajaccio and Propriano, 38 frs., Calvi and Ile Rousse, 28 frs., Bastia +and Leghorn, 32 frs., and Nice, Bastia and Leghorn. Weekly steamers +between Genoa, Leghorn and Bastia. The boats of the Compagnie Insulaire +being smaller, come within a few yards of the mole. The luggage is +landed from the steamers by the company free of expense and is delivered +at the custom-house to the proprietor on presentation of the bulletin de +baggage. Passengers are taken ashore and to their hotels for 2 frs. +each.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The Navigazione Generale Italiana, Piazza Marini, Genoa, have a steamer +every week for Portotorres, at the north-west extremity of <ins class = +"correction" title = "error for Sardinia">Sicily</ins>, calling at +Bastia. Also from Leghorn to Bastia. Distance 72 miles, fare 20 frs., +time 7 hrs.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Small steamer between Ajaccio and Propriano twice weekly.</p> + + + +<!--png 020--> +<p class = "illustration"> +<a name = "map3" id = "map3" href = "images/map3.png"> +<img src = "images/map3thumb.png" width = "442" height = "311" +alt = "Ajaccio" title = "Ajaccio"></a></p> + +<p class = "caption"> +Ajaccio<br> +<a href = "images/map3.png">— larger view —</a></p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">3</span> +<a name = "page3" id = "page3"> </a> +<!--png 019--> + +<h4 class = "sans"><a name = "ajaccio" id = "ajaccio">AJACCIO.</a></h4> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a name = "ajaccio_hotels" id = +"ajaccio_hotels"><i>Hotels.</i></a>—On an eminence, in its own +grounds, rising gently from the sea, is the <b>*Grand Hotel</b>, with +sea and fresh water baths and every convenience; opened at the end of +the present year. A skilled English physician on the premises.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +There are besides three good family hotels, charging from 8 to 12 +frs.; in the Course Grandval, the H. Continental, wine 1½ fr., +carpeted brick floors, garden; near it, with south exposure and full +view of the bay, the *H. Suisse or Schweizerhof, wine 1 fr., +smooth wood floors, partially carpeted, garden; at the top of the Course +Grandval, the H. Bellevue, wine 1¼ fr., partially carpeted +wood floors, garden.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +These prices include coffee or tea in the morning, meat breakfast and +dinner and service, but neither candles nor wine, of which the lowest +price per bottle is given above. In the Place Bonaparte is the +H. de France, a good French hotel, pension 8 to 12 frs.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a name = "ajaccio_bankers" id = "ajaccio_bankers"><i>Bankers and +Money-changers.</i></a>—The bank Bozzo-Costa and the bank Lanzi, +both near each other in the Boulevard Roi Jerome.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The office of the Compagnie Transatlantique is in the same Boulevard; +the office of the Compagnie Insulaire is in the Place du Marché.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a name = "ajaccio_cabs" id = "ajaccio_cabs"><i>Cabs.</i></a>—The +course 1½ fr., the hour 2 frs., the day 25 frs.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a name = "ajaccio_drives" id = "ajaccio_drives">Tariff of return +drives</a>, with 2 frs. extra for every hour of repose.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<i>West</i> from Ajaccio: Scudo, 5 frs.; Vignola 1114 ft., 15 frs.; +Vignola village, 10 frs.; Lisa, 15 frs.; Iles Sanguinaires, 10 frs.; St. +Antoine, 5 frs.; Salario, 5 frs. <i>North</i> from Ajaccio: +Castelluccio, 4 frs.; Mezzavia, 5 frs.; Alata and Col +Carbinica, 25 frs.; Afa, 20 frs.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<i>East</i> from Ajaccio: the Campo dell’ Oro, or the plain at the mouth +of the Gravona, 5 frs.; the Baths of Caldaniccia, 5 frs.; +Bastelicaccia, 5 frs.; Pisciatella, 6 frs. Three frs. gratuity +for a whole day. The horses cover on an average about thirty miles a +day.</p> + +<p>AJACCIO, pop. 19,050, the capital of Corsica, is situated on the +extremity of a small gulf 677 miles from Paris and 15 to 20 hours’ sail +from Marseilles. Founded in 1492 by the Bank of St. George of Genoa, a +commercial association similar to the East India Company, it was raised +in 1811 through the influence of Madame Letitia and Cardinal Fesch to +the dignity of capital of the island, and became accordingly the +residence of the Préfet and the seat of the civil and ecclesiastical +Courts. Ajaccio has a handsome <a name = "ajaccio_episcopal" id = +"ajaccio_episcopal">Episcopal chapel</a> built by Miss Campbell, of +Moniack Castle, Scotland, an accomplished lady, the authoress of a work +on the island in French and English.</p> + +<p>In the Cours Napoleon is a small French <a name = "ajaccio_mission" +id = "ajaccio_mission">mission</a>, whose worthy pastor, besides +conducting the regular Sunday services, gives two lectures (conferences) +every week, which are attended by from 80 to 100 people.</p> + +<p>The houses in Ajaccio, as well as those throughout the island, are +generally built in large square blocks of from 3 to 5 stories, each +story forming a separate dwelling.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">4</span> +<a name = "page4" id = "page4"> </a> +<!--png 021--> +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "ajaccio_napoleon" id = +"ajaccio_napoleon"> +<span class = "headnote"> +Napoleon’s Birthplace.</span></a></p> + +<p>The mole at which passengers land from the steamers is at the foot of +the Place du Marché. In the centre of this “Place†is a fountain +ornamented with lions and a white marble statue of Napoleon I. by +Laboureur. To the left of the statue is the Hotel de Ville, the markets, +and the commencement of the Rue Fesch, in which is the edifice +containing the public library, the museum, and the memorial chapel (<a +href = "#ajaccio_memorial">p. 5</a>); while to the right is the Rue +Napoleon, in which the first opening right leads into the Place Letitia. +A little beyond this opening is No. 17, the house of the <a name = +"ajaccio_pozzo" id = "ajaccio_pozzo">Pozzo di Borgo</a> family, of whom +Charles André, 1768-1842, was the great upholder of Paoli and the bitter +enemy of Napoleon I. Napoleon’s house, though not equal to that of the +Borgo family, was one of the best in Ajaccio. It is well built, of three +stories of six windows each, and all the rooms have a more or less +handsome marble chimney-piece. Over the door is inscribed on white +marble “Napoleon est né dans cette maison le <span class = +"smallroman">XV</span> Aovt <span class = +"smallroman">MDCCLXIX</span><ins class = "correction" title = +"close quote missing">â€. </ins>A good staircase, bordered by a wrought-iron +railing, leads to the top. The rooms shown are on the first floor. The +first is the parlour, with a small table, a few chairs, and a piano said +to have belonged to Mme. Letitia. Then after having passed through a +small chamber we enter the room in which Napoleon was born, into which +Madame was brought hurriedly from the church in the sedan chair kept in +the end room. Over the chimney-piece are portraits of the father and +mother. Then follows the dining-room, and after it the drawing-room, +with inlaid wood floor and six windows on both sides. The floors of all +the other rooms are of glazed tiles. In the next room is the sedan +chair. Fee for party 1 fr.</p> + +<p>This now silent and empty house was once enlivened and brightened by +the fair Letitia and her large family of children, just like other men’s +children; schoolboys toiling at their Plutarch or Cæsar, and their three +young sisters growing up careless and rather wild, like their +neighbours’ daughters, in the half-barbarous island town. There is +Joseph, the eldest, then Napoleon, the second born, then Lucien, Louis, +and Jerome; then Caroline, Eliza, and Pauline, the children of a notary +of moderate income, who is incessantly and vainly carrying on law-suits +with the Jesuits of Ajaccio to gain a contested estate which is +necessary to his numerous family. Their future fills him with anxiety; +what will they be in the world and how will they secure a comfortable +subsistence? And behold! these same children, one after the other, take +to themselves the mightiest crowns of the earth—tear them from the +heads of the most unapproachable kings of Europe and wear them in the +sight of +<span class = "pagenum">5</span> +<a name = "page5" id = "page5"> </a> +<!--png 021--> +all the world; and they, the sons of an Ajaccio lawyer, cause themselves +to be embraced as brothers and brothers-in-law by emperors and kings. +Napoleon is European Emperor; Joseph King of Spain; Louis King of +Holland; Jerome King of Westphalia; Caroline Queen of Naples and Pauline +and Eliza Princesses of Italy. In 1793, after the flight of Madame +Letitia and her children to her country residence, the Casone, the house +was pillaged by the Corsicans opposed to the French Republic.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "ajaccio_cathedral" id = +"ajaccio_cathedral"> +<span class = "headnote"> +Cathedral.</span></a></p> + +<p>Near the Place Letitia is the cathedral built in the 16th century by +Pope Gregory. It contains the font at which Napoleon I. was baptized on +the 21st July 1771.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "ajaccio_memorial" id = +"ajaccio_memorial"> +<span class = "headnote"> +Memorial Chapel.</span></a></p> + +<p>In the Rue Fesch is the College founded in 1822. In one wing of the +edifice is the <a name = "ajaccio_library" id = "ajaccio_library">public +library</a>, with 33,000 volumes, founded by Lucien Bonaparte, and the +museum and <a name = "ajaccio_picture" id = "ajaccio_picture">picture +gallery</a>, with 900 paintings, mostly copies; and in the other the +memorial chapel built by Napoleon III., lined with beautiful marble. In +the crypt under the transept, left hand, is the tomb of Marie Letitia +Ramolino, died at Rome in 1836; and right hand, that of Napoleon’s +uncle, Cardinal Fesch, died at Rome in 1839. Both bodies were brought to +this, their present resting-place, in 1851. There are, besides, the +tombs of Prince Charles and of Zenaida his daughter. Napoleon’s father +died in 1785 and is buried at Montpellier. Madame was only 35 at his +death and had already borne him 13 children, 5 of whom were dead, and +Jerome was an infant in the cradle.</p> + +<p>Parallel with the Rue Fesch is the Cours Napoleon, by which all the +diligences enter and leave the town. The continuation round the bay is +bordered with plane trees. At the commencement is a bronze statue of +“E. C. Abbatucci né à Zicavo le 12 Novembre 1770, mort pour la +patrie le 2 Decembre 1796.†Near it is the railway station.</p> + +<p>At the western end of the Cours Napoleon is the Place Bonaparte or +Diamant, bordered with trees and ornamented with a complicate bronze +monument on a granite pedestal by Violet le Duc, “à la memoire de +Napoleon I. et de ses frères Joseph, Lucien, Louis, Jerome.†All +are life-size statues; Napoleon is on horseback, the others on foot, +marching solemnly towards the sea.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "ajaccio_excursions" id = +"ajaccio_excursions"> +<span class = "headnote"> +Walks.</span></a></p> + +<h5 class = "boldf">EXCURSIONS.</h5> + +<p>From the port, 11 m. W., is the chapel S. Antonio, 850 ft. The road +passes the penitentiary of S. Antonio, 331 ft. North from it, under +the peak of La Barrage, 1476 feet, is the Castelluccio penitentiary. +Westward by the Hospice Eugenie and the Batterie de Maestrello, a +<span class = "pagenum">6</span> +<a name = "page6" id = "page6"> </a> +<!--png 023--> +pleasant road leads along the coast to the orange gardens of Barbicaja, +passing by the Chapelle de Greco and the cemetery. About 4 m. +farther is the Tête Parata, 199 ft., opposite the Iles Sanguinaires.</p> + +<p>A beautiful road, the continuation of the Cours Grandval, ascends +2½ m. to the <a name = "salario" id = "salario">Fontaine du +Salario</a>, 760 ft., commanding enchanting views. This road traverses +the Place Casone, 144 ft., occupying the site of the Casone, the country +house of the Bonapartes, destroyed in 1878. Close by is the “grotte +Napoleon,†composed of blocks of granite, to which, it is said, the +youthful Napoleon used to retire.</p> + +<p>About 6 m. N. from Ajaccio is the village of Alata, 1312 ft. Within +an easy walking distance north from Ajaccio is the pleasant estate of <a +name = "carrosaccia" id = "carrosaccia">Carrosaccia</a>, on the canal +which supplies the town with water from the Gravona. 5½ m. N. +from Ajaccio are the <a name = "caldaniccia" id = +"caldaniccia">sulphurous springs of Caldaniccia</a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "ajaccio_sepul" id = "ajaccio_sepul"> +<span class = "headnote"> +Family Tombs.</span></a></p> + +<p>In the neighbourhood of Ajaccio and of the other Corsican towns and +villages are numerous family sepulchral chapels enclosed within walls. A +more pleasing characteristic feature, probably inherited from the Moors, +are the numerous <a name = "ajaccio_fountains" id = +"ajaccio_fountains">fountains</a> in the villages and by the road side, +whence flow streams of cold, sparkling water of exquisite purity.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "ajaccio_climate" id = +"ajaccio_climate"> +<span class = "headnote"> +Climate.</span></a></p> + +<p><i>Climate.</i>—For convalescent invalids, Ajaccio forms a +delightful change from the Riviera, as it is so rural, and has such +pleasant air and good water. The hotels are comfortable and their +charges moderate. As, too, the road metal used around Ajaccio is that +disintegrating granite which so readily solidifies by the combined +action of the rain and traffic, there is very little dust in the +neighbourhood (<a href = "#granite">p. 9</a>).</p> + +<p>The principal winds are the Libeccio or S.W. wind, the Sirocco or +S.E. wind, and the Mistral or N.W. wind.</p> + +<p>On the 12th, 13th and 14th of May the fair of <a name = +"ajaccio_pancras" id = "ajaccio_pancras">St. Pancras</a> is held, which +affords a good opportunity for purchasing Corsican horses. They are from +10 to 14 hands high and of great endurance. It is wonderful to behold +the energy these small slim creatures display in dragging heavy +lumbering diligences up long, steep, winding roads.</p> + +<p><a name = "ajaccio_water" id = "ajaccio_water">But more wonderful +still</a> is it to see the peasant women and girls as young as thirteen +carrying on their heads up and down the mountain paths big pails, or the +more elegant two-handled brass jars of classic form, containing about +two gallons of water, without ever stumbling on any of the many stones. +The pails are made of copper lined with tin, weighing when full of water +from 55 lbs. to 65 lbs.</p> + +<p>Among the <a name = "ajaccio_curio" id = +"ajaccio_curio">curiosities</a> of Ajaccio are gourds made into bottles, +of various shapes and sizes and mounted with silver, and the pretty +baskets made of straw by the girls of Alata.</p> + + +<!--png 024--> +<p class = "illustration"> +<a name = "map4" id = "map4" href = "images/map4.png"> +<img src = "images/map4thumb.png" width = "479" height = "290" +alt = "Environs of Ajaccio" title = "Environs of Ajaccio"></a></p> + +<p class = "caption"> +Environs of Ajaccio<br> +<a href = "images/map4.png">— larger view —</a></p> + +<div class = "itinerary"> + +<span class = "pagenum">7</span> +<a name = "page7" id = "page7"> </a> +<!--png 025--> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "ajaccio_to_bastia" id = +"ajaccio_to_bastia"> +Ajaccio to Bastia.</a></h5> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Ajaccio to Bocognano by rail, thence by diligence to Corté; Corté to +Bastia by rail 47 m., or 44 by road. The road from Ajaccio ascends +the valley of the Gravona to its source at the Col Vizzavona. On the N. +side of the Col it follows the course of the Vecchio. The most +picturesque part of this route is between Vizzavona and Vivario.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from"> </span> +<span class = "miles to">95</span> +AJACCIO. Start from the station in the Cours Napoleon. The road, after +traversing the fertile plain of Campo dell Oro, crosses the Col +Sudricchio, 804 ft., and then the bridge of <a name = "ucciani" id = +"ucciani">Ucciani</a>, 948 ft., built in the reign of Louis XIV., +17½ m. from Ajaccio and 2 m. from the village of Ucciani. Use +<a href = "#map2">general map</a>, and <a href = "#map6">map, +p. 27</a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "bocognano" id = "bocognano"> +<span class = "headnote">Bocognano.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">25</span> +<span class = "miles to">70</span> +BOCOGNANO pop. 2000, and 2120 ft. above the sea. <i>Inn:</i> Univers. +Picturesquely situated in a plantation of chestnut trees, surrounded by +high mountain peaks. Near Bocognano commences the Vizzavona tunnel, 4375 +yards through the mountain. Diligence now to Corté. The road, having +crossed the Sellola bridge, 2843 ft., winds its way up by the Col de +Pinzalone, 3370 ft., and the Maison and Pont de Lavatoggio 3615 ft. to +the top of the ridge. See <a href = "#map6">map, p. 27</a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "vizzavona" id = "vizzavona"> +<span class = "headnote">Vizzavona.—Pines.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">31</span> +<span class = "miles to">64</span> +LE FORT DE VIZZAVONA on the summit of the Pass, 3813 ft. above the sea, +with the Gendarmerie and a few houses of refuge. A few miles northwards +is Monte d’Oro, 7845 ft., and southwards <a name = "mt_renoso7" id = +"mt_renoso7">Monte Renoso</a>, 7733 ft. The diligence, in its descent to +Vivario, traverses the forest of Vizzavona, consisting mainly of beeches +and larches, frequently 150 ft. high. <a name = "pines" id = "pines">Of +this tree there are two varieties</a>, the <a name = "pinuspinaster" id += "pinuspinaster"><i>Pinus pinaster</i></a> or cluster pine, the <i>Pin +maritime</i> of the French, which grows best on deep loose soils and +flourishes even on the drifting sands of the sea shore. They supply +large quantities of resin. Their wood being soft, coarse and perishable, +is usually converted into charcoal and lamp black. The other is the <a +name = "pinuslaricio" id = "pinuslaricio"><i>Pinus laricio</i></a>, +which thrives on the high lands of Corsica, Spain, south of France, +Greece and Cyprus. Their growth is rapid, the trunk straight and from +100 to 150 ft. high, the branches are in regular whorls, forming in +large trees a pyramidal head, and the leaves are slender, from 4 to 7 +inches long, and of a dark green tint. The timber is good and durable, +though less strong than that of the <i>Pinus silvestris</i>. Between the +51st and 53d <ins class = "correction" +title = "inconsistency in original">kilomètre stones</ins> +are passed the “Maison de Refuge +d’Alzarella,†and the “Maison de refuge Omellina,†2832 ft.</p> + +<p>After crossing the Col de Campo di Lupo, 2684 ft., 35 m. from +Ajaccio, the road descends into the ravine of the Vecchio, above +which is</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">8</span> +<a name = "page8" id = "page8"> </a> +<!--png 026--> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "vivario" id = "vivario"> +<span class = "headnote">Vivario.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">38</span> +<span class = "miles to">57</span> +VIVARIO pop. 1500, and 2152 ft. <i>Inn:</i> H. Voyageurs a +three-storied house. Junction with road to Zicavo, 37 m. S. +(<a href = "#zicavo27">pp. 27</a>, <a href = "#vivario29">29</a>). +Although Vivario be a poor village, yet it has a terrace and fountain +ornamented with a statue of Diana. The breeding of pigs fed in the +adjoining chestnut forest, and the manufacture of hams, sausages and +bacon, are the most important industries of the inhabitants.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +From Vivario a forest road extends 27 m. S.E. to the hamlet of <a +name = "vadina" id = "vadina">Vadina</a>, by Muracciole 2022 ft., +1½ m., the <a name = "col_erbajo8" id = "col_erbajo8">Col +Erbajo</a> 3018 ft., 7 m.; Pietroso 10½ m., Saparelli +12½ m., and Quinzena 18 m. From Vadina a good carriage road +leads 6 m. <a name = "vivario_to_pietrapola" id = +"vivario_to_pietrapola">to the Baths of Pietrapola</a>, which are +supplied by most copious springs of hot, saline, sulphurous water. The +season is from May 1 to June 30; or September 1 to November 30. The +situation is beautiful and the bathing-establishment and lodging +accommodation comfortable, and much frequented.</p> + +<p>The road from Vivario to Serraggio passes along the top of the rocky +gorge of the foaming Vecchio. The best view of the gorge is from the +Pont du Vecchio 40 m. from Ajaccio and 280 ft. above the bed. From +<a name = "serraggio8" id = "serraggio8">Serraggio</a>, 1890 ft., Mt +d’Oro is well seen. See <a href = "#map5">map, p. 20</a>.</p> + +<p>The road now passes <a name = "lugo" id = "lugo">Lugo</a>, 1980 ft.; +S. Pietro, 2496 ft.; the Col. S. Nicolo, 2473 ft.; and +Casanova, 2136 ft., to</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "corte" id = "corte"> +<span class = "headnote">Corté.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">51</span> +<span class = "miles to">44</span> +CORTÉ 1329 ft., pop. 5500. <i>Hotels:</i> *Paoli, 8 to 10 frs., Europe. +Is situated at the junction of the Tavignano with the Restonico, in the +midst of majestic mountains of the most varied form. The citadel or +château, built in the early part of the 15th century, stands on +precipitous and jagged rocks rising from the Tavignano, commanding from +the top a magnificent view of the wild surrounding scenery. In the +“Place†is a statue of Paoli, the Corsican patriot, born at Stretta in +1726, and to the right of the statue the post and telegraph office. In +the immediate neighbourhood stands a large house, a Franciscan convent, +in which the Corsican parliament assembled in Paoli’s time. Near Corté, +by the left side of the Restonico, is a quarry of marble of a bluish +tint with reddish white veins. To take the walk up the gorge of the +Restonico, descend by first road left up the main street from the hotels +and cross only the Tavignano bridge. The mountain appearing to close the +valley is Mte. Rotondo. See <a href = "#map5">map, p. 20</a>.</p> + +<p>Coach to Aleria, 31 m. S.E. (<a href = +"#aleria_to_corte">p. 33</a>), by a beautiful road.</p> + +<p>Just outside Corté the rail traverses the Torretta tunnel, 1531 +yards.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "mt_rotondo8" id = "mt_rotondo8"> +<span class = "headnote">Mte. Rotondo.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a name = "corte_to_mt_rotondo" id = "corte_to_mt_rotondo">From Corté +the ascent of Monte Rotondo</a> is most easily effected. It is 8613 feet +above the sea-level, or 7284 feet above Corté. Cabins inhabited by the +herdsmen are scattered over the declivities of the mountain up to within +3000 feet of the top. Time 2 days. Guide +<span class = "pagenum">9</span> +<a name = "page9" id = "page9"> </a> +<!--png 027--> +with mule 25 frs. Ascend by the road up the picturesque valley of the +Restonico to the Timozzo bridge, 3590 feet, and 2½ hours from Corté. +From this the path extends 1½ hour up the wild ravine of the Timozzo to +the shepherds’ huts; whence the rest must be done on foot. Now the hard +work commences. Block lies above block, towering upwards and upwards in +such endless masses of monotonous gray that the heart quails with the +sight and the foot trembles to go farther. After about 2 hours’ scramble +over these colossal steps the traveller reaches the fontaine de +Triggione, about 2200 feet below the summit and in full view of it, an +incomplete circle of steep jagged cliffs. About 330 feet higher is a +little dark lake, the Lago di Monte Rotondo, encircled by gentle green +slopes, where the night is generally spent. Snow-field extend from the +lake to the summit, which, although apparently near, requires 2 full +hours’ climbing to reach, often on hands and feet, over sharp fragments +of rock, or up steep beds of slippery frozen snow. The extreme peak is a +rugged obelisk of gray rock ending in a pinnacle. A way leads down by +the S. side in 6 hours, to Guagno by lake <a name = "bettianella" id = +"bettianella">Bettianella</a>, 3419 ft., then W. by the road over the <a +name = "col_manganella" id = "col_manganella">Col de Manganella</a>, +5874 ft. See <a href = "#map5">map, p. 20</a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "granite" id = "granite"> +<span class = "headnote">Granite.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +“The view from Monte Rotondo did not impress me. The central uplands, +which form a large portion of it, are bare and arid, while the great +ridge of Monte Cinto stretches across the northern horizon like a long +screen. Comparatively little of the coast is seen in any direction, but +most towards the west. It was curious to notice how completely the tops +of the mountains between us and the Cinto ridge were flattened down, +while the crest on which we stood was a set of bristling teeth. There +are two kinds of granite in Corsica, one friable and unable to resist +the action of the air, the other hard and defiant of the elements. Of +this latter consist the Cinto range, Monte Rotondo and the rocks in the +forest of Bavella.‗D. W. Freshfield, Alpine Club.</p> + +<p>The road now from Corté to Bastia traverses the Quilico Col, 1932 +ft., passes Soveria, 1843 ft., and Caporalino, 8 m. from Corté, 36 +from Bastia and 1 m. from Omessa. About 1½ m. farther it +crosses the Golo by the <a name = "francardo9" id = +"francardo9">Francardo bridge</a>, 856 ft., where it meets the great +Forest Road from Porto, 50 m. S.W. by Evisa and the Col de Vergio, +<a href = "#col_vergio">p. 18</a>, and <a href = "#map5">map, +p. 20</a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "leccia9" id = "leccia9"> +<span class = "headnote">Ponte Leccia.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">66</span> +<span class = "miles to">29</span> +PONTE ALLA LECCIA 624 ft. Village, and coach and railway station. +<i>Inn:</i> Cyrnoz. Diligence to Calvi by the beautiful northern +continuation of the road from Prunete by Cervione and <a name = +"piedicroce9" id = "piedicroce9">Piedicroce</a>, <a href = +"#leccia_to_calvi">p. 20</a>. "Courrier" daily to Piedicroce, +18 m. S.E. by Morosaglia, see <a href = +"#leccia_to_piedicroce">p. 34</a>. During the summer heats Ponte +alla Leccia is considered insalubrious.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "pontenovo" id = "pontenovo"> +<span class = "headnote">Ponte Novo.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">71</span> +<span class = "miles to">24</span> +PONTE NOVO. The site of the disastrous battle fought on the 9th of May +1769, when the Corsicans lost their independence and +<span class = "pagenum">10</span> +<a name = "page10" id = "page10"> </a> +<!--png 028--> +became subject to France. The two small houses on the right bank, a +little farther down the river, were Paoli’s headquarters. One month +afterwards he, with some other Corsican refugees, sailed from Porto +Vecchio in a British vessel for England (<a href = +"#paoli">p. 39</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "borgo" id = "borgo"> +<span class = "headnote">Borgo.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">85</span> +<span class = "miles to">10</span> +BORGO pop. 820. On the Mariana hills, rising from <a name = "biguglia" +id = "biguglia">Lake Biguglia</a>, one of the many <a name = +"coastlakes10" id = "coastlakes10">lagoons on the eastern coast</a>, +separated from the sea by narrow sandbanks. Along this coast extend the +only large plains in Corsica. Unfortunately, in summer they are subject +to malaria, which, however, a judicious system of drainage is gradually +abating. They are cultivated by Italian labourers who visit the island +periodically. Between Borgo and Bastia is <a name = "bevinco" id = +"bevinco">Bevinco</a>, with valuable marble quarries. Southward from +Borgo on the coast is Mariana, the site of the colony founded by Marius +(<a href = "#mariana">p. 34</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "bastia" id = "bastia"> +<span class = "headnote">Bastia.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "miles from">95</span> +BASTIA pop. 21,000. <i>Hotels:</i> *France; Europe; Lingenieur; Croix de +Malte over the post and telegraph office, all in the Boul. du Palais, +8 to 10 frs. Theatre; Public Library with 65,000 volumes. <a name = +"bastia_steamers10" id = "bastia_steamers10">Steamers</a> twice a week +to Marseilles, time 18 hours, touching once a week at Nice, 12 hours +distant. Fare direct to Marseilles, including food, 28 frs. To Nice, +without food, 30 frs. Rubattino’s steamers leave three times a week for +Leghorn; time 6 hours. These same steamers proceed afterwards to +Genoa. Railway to Corté. Rail also to Aleria, whence diligence to +Bonifacio, Sartène and Ajaccio.</p> + +<p>Diligences daily from Bastia to Cap Corse, 7 hours, 6 or 5 +frs.; and also to Calvi, 12 hours, 13 or 10 frs.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "brando10" id = "brando10"> +<span class = "headnote">Brando.</span></a></p> + +<p>Carriages to visit the stalactite cave at Brando, 10 frs. Admission +2 frs. each. It is 7 m. from Bastia, above Erbalunga, on the +face of a mountain; and was discovered in 1841 by M. Ferdinandi. A +steep path leads up to it. Keeper near cave. See <a href = +"#brando12">p. 12</a>.</p> + +<p><i>Bastia</i>, the most important city of Corsica, is built on ground +rising gently from the sea. Facing the sea and the principal harbour is +the Place St. Nicholas, adorned with a marble statue of Napoleon I., by +Bartolini, looking towards the island of Elba. In this “Placeâ€, the +promenade of the town, are the offices of the Messageries Maritimes and +of the Compagnie Insulaire. Fraissinet’s office is at the old harbour; +whence also their steamers sail.</p> + +<p>From the Place St. Nicholas ascends the principal street, the +Boulevard du Palais, to the Palais de Justice. In this Boulevard are the +post and telegraph offices (whence most of the diligences start), the +hotels, cafés and the best shops, and from it ramify the streets of the +<span class = "pagenum">11</span> +<a name = "page11" id = "page11"> </a> +<!--png 029--> +town. At the top of the B. du Palais commences, right hand, the +Boul. Cardo, one of the best roads to take for views of the town and +neighbourhood. A flight of steps leads from the quay up to the +cathedral, a handsome building in the Italian style. The markets are +held in the “Place†fronting the cathedral. Most of the houses are built +in large blocks from 5 to 6 stories high and from 6 to 9 windows broad, +each story forming a separate residence.</p> + +<p>Bastia owes its name to the bastion built here by the Genoese in the +14th century. From the hills behind Bastia the view embraces the islands +of Gorgona, Capraja, Elba, and Monte-Christo, seen best from the top of +the Serra di Pigno, 3640 feet. Refer to <a href = "#map1">map on +fly-leaf</a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "bastia_steamers11" id = +"bastia_steamers11"> +<span class = "headnote">Steamers.</span></a></p> + +<p>The most beautiful part of Corsica, and the most easily visited, is +the eastern side, including the Castagniccia or the chestnut country, +and the whole region up in the mountains, which border this coast. The +wealthiest, most industrious and most enterprising of the people are +those who inhabit that long narrow tongue of land called Cap Corse. +Although boats are constantly sailing from Marseilles and Leghorn to +Bastia, invalids visiting Corsica with the intention of wintering in +Ajaccio should, if possible, sail from Marseilles or Nice direct to +Ajaccio; but on leaving the island, when winter is over, Bastia is +perhaps the best port to sail from, as it affords an excellent +opportunity for visiting the most beautiful parts of Corsica and the +most important towns in Italy. On arriving at Leghorn (see Black’s +<i>South France</i>) it is best to proceed at once to the railway +station, and start for Pisa, only 30 minutes distant. There are numerous +trains. At the station and in the kiosques in the “Piazzas†of Leghorn, +is sold an excellent little book with all the railway Time-tables, +<i>L’Indicatore Ufficiale</i>, price 50 c.</p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "corse" id = "corse"> +<span class = "headnote">Cap Corse.—Wine.</span></a></p> + +<h4 class = "sans">CAP CORSE.</h4> + +<h5 class = "boldf"><a name = "bastia_to_rogliano" id = +"bastia_to_rogliano">Bastia to Rogliano and Morsaglia.</a></h5> + +<h6>See <a href = "#map2">General Map</a>, p. 1.</h6> + +<p>By diligence, fare to Rogliano, 4 frs. and 3 frs., distance +27½ m., 6 hrs. To Morsaglia, 5½ and 4½ frs., distance +37½ m., 8 hrs. By the road skirting the eastern side of the +peninsula of Cap Corse, the best cultivated part of the island, and +containing the tidiest villages. The best Cap Corse <a name = "wines11" +id = "wines11">wine</a>, mostly white, is produced around Luri and +Rogliano. The quality used as table wine is drunk the first year. It +improves till the fifth year, the better qualities till the tenth and +twentieth year. Cap Corse is traversed by a rugged mountain range or +serra, of which the +<span class = "pagenum">12</span> +<a name = "page12" id = "page12"> </a> +<!--png 030--> +culminating peaks are Mount Alticcione, 4230 feet; Mount Stello, 4536 +feet; and the Serra de Pigno, 3640 feet. From the east side of this +rugged serra little fertile valleys extend to the sea.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "pino12" id = "pino12"> +<span class = "headnote">Pino.—Luri.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Mr. Freshfield thus describes the “Capâ€:—“Down a promontory +8 to 10 m. wide runs a range 3000 to 4000 ft. high, with the +crest towards the western coast and the valleys towards the eastern. +Hence the western Cornice road is a terrace along an always steep, +sometimes sheer, mountain side, while the eastern crosses a succession +of low maquis-covered spurs, which beyond Cap Sagro flatten and become +monotonous. Pino is one of the most beautiful sites on the western +coast. It is also important as the spot where the cross-road through the +vale of Luri, under Seneca’s tower, falls into the western Cornice. +Half-way on this road the village of <a name = "luri" id = +"luri">Luri</a> groups itself in the most picturesque way imaginable on +a hill-side broken by a deep ravine. Down on the seashore above the +little Marina or port is a large convent; a church occupies a projecting +brow 200 ft. above it; higher still, and right and left, every +vantage-ground is occupied by groups of well-built villas and sepulchral +chapels. The slopes are terraced into orchards of citron, lemon, peach +and almond trees, olive groves and vineyards, sheltered from the gales +of winter by high palisades.â€</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Farther south, 5¼ m., is <a name = "nonza" id = "nonza">Nonza</a>, +with inn, 479 ft., pop. 550. Coach to St. Florent. This is one of the +most curious villages of the island. It stands like an eagle’s nest, +perched above the sea on a black rock on the mountain side. Its houses, +built level with the edge of the cliffs, formed in olden days a +sufficient rampart against marauders.</p> + +<p>The diligence having passed Lavasina 4½ m. from Bastia, Brando +7 m., and <a name = "erbalunga" id = "erbalunga">Erbalunga</a> +6¼ m., halts at Sisco-port 9¼ m. To visit the cave of <a name += "brando12" id = "brando12">Brando</a> take the steep narrow path left, +near a mill, just before arriving at Erbalunga. Seats in shady places +are placed here and there. The keeper’s house is close to the entrance. +The diligence then proceeds by Pietracorbara 11½ m., and the <a +name = "torreallosse" id = "torreallosse">Torre all’Osse</a> 13 m.; +one of the best remaining specimens of the 85 towers built by the Pisans +and Genoese to ward off the attacks of the Saracens. From the Torre the +diligence proceeds other 2 m. to Perticciolo, where it halts.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "senecastower" id = "senecastower"> +<span class = "headnote">Seneca’s Tower.</span></a></p> + +<p>Two miles farther is <a name = "st_severa" id = +"st_severa">S. Severa</a>, where the horses are changed and the +passengers breakfast. From S. Severa, a road ramifies +10 m. W. to Pino on the other side of the peninsula by the +valley of the Luri, with vineyards and orange groves, passing the +village of Luri 3½ m., with good inn, the <a name = "col_st_lucie" +id = "col_st_lucie">Col de S. Lucie</a> 7 m., 1363 ft., and +Saronese 9¾ m. From the Santa Severa inn, Seneca’s tower is +distinctly seen, at the head of the valley, on the summit of a +precipitous peak, rising from the S. side of the Col, 1355 ft., from +which a steep, stony path leads up +<span class = "pagenum">13</span> +<a name = "page13" id = "page13"> </a> +<!--png 031--> +to it, by a forsaken Franciscan convent. The view is grand. To this +tower, one of the many watch-towers built in the 12th cent., Seneca +could never have been sent, but to the Roman colony of Mariana, then +used as a place of banishment for political offenders.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"> +<span class = "headnote">Seneca.</span></p> + +<p>Lucius Annæus Seneca was born at Cordova in Spain, just before the +commencement of the Christian era. His eldest brother was A. Seneca +Novatus, which name was altered afterwards to that of his adopted +father, Junius Gallio. This brother was the proconsul of Achaia, before +whom St. Paul was arraigned (Acts xviii. 12). While Seneca was still a +child he was brought by his aunt to Rome, where he had for teachers +Sotion, Papirius Fabianus and Attalus the Stoic. Although weak in body +he was a most diligent student, which, joined to his powerful memory, +enabled him to obtain at an early age important offices. Before his +banishment, <span class = "smallroman">A.D.</span> 41, he had +already served as quæstor. Having irritated Caligula, he would have been +put to death, had not one of the mistresses of the emperor assured him +that it was not worth while, as Seneca was so consumptive he would soon +die a natural death.</p> + +<p>In the first year of the reign of Claudius, his wife Messalina having +become jealous of the influence his niece Julia, daughter of Germanicus, +had over Claudius her husband, succeeded in getting rid of her by +imputing to her improper intimacy with Seneca, then a married man. For +that reason Seneca was banished to Corsica <span class = +"smallroman">A.D.</span> 41.</p> + +<p>During his exile he wrote his consolatory letter to his mother +Helvia, as well as a panegyric on Messalina and a consolatory letter to +Polybius, ostensibly to condole with him on the loss of his brother; but +in reality to get that powerful freedman to exert his influence with the +emperor, to recall his sentence of exile. This letter is full of fulsome +flattery and expressions unworthy of an honest man.</p> + +<p>After the death of Messalina, Claudius married his niece Agrippina, +sister of Julia and mother of Nero by a former husband. Through her +influence Seneca was recalled <span class = +"smallroman">A.D.</span> 49 and appointed a prætor and tutor to +Nero, then 11 years old. In <span class = +"smallroman">A.D.</span> 51 Agrippina poisoned her +husband.<br> </p> + + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "macinaggio13" id = "macinaggio13"> +<span class = +"headnote">Macinaggio.—Rogliano.—Botticella.</span></a></p> + +<p>From <b>S. Severa</b>, the diligence, resuming its journey, passes +Meria 20½ m., and halts again at the port of Macinaggio 2½ m. +more. <a name = "rogliano" id = "rogliano">From this commences the steep +ascent up to Rogliano</a> 1300 ft., a town built in groups on +the side of the mountain, among vineyards and olive and chestnut trees, +the inn being in the second highest group, near the post-office. +<span class = "pagenum">14</span> +<a name = "page14" id = "page14"> </a> +<!--png 032--> +After Rogliano the diligence crosses the Cols S. Anne, Cappiaja and +S. Nicholas, and <a name = "botticella" id = "botticella">arrives +at Botticella</a> 31 m., and then proceeds to <a name = "ersa" id = +"ersa">Ersa</a> with inn, near the top of the <a name = "col_serra" id = +"col_serra">Col de Serra</a> 1182 ft., commanding a good view of Cap +Corse. Shortly afterwards the diligence arrives at <a name = "morsaglia" +id = "morsaglia">Morsaglia</a>, called also <a name = "pecorile" id = +"pecorile">Pecorile</a>, a village composed of groups of houses like +Rogliano on the side of a hill. The conductor of the diligence will show +the hotel. Six miles S. from Morsaglia is <a name = "pino14" id = +"pino14">Pino</a>, see <a href = "#pino12">p. 12</a>.</p> + +<p>From Botticella a road leads 4½ m. N. to <a name = "barcaggio" +id = "barcaggio">Barcaggio</a>, opposite the <a name = "giraglia" id = +"giraglia">island of Giraglia</a>, on which is a first-class lighthouse, +269 feet above the sea, seen within a radius of 14 m.</p> + +<p>From Morsaglia the road is continued 31 m. farther to the <a +name = "col_st_bernardino" id = "col_st_bernardino">Col +S. Bernardino</a> on the Bastia and St. Florent road, passing Pino, +25 m. from the Col S. Bernardino; Minerbio, 21½ m.; +Marinca, 16 m.; <a name = "nonza14" id = "nonza14">Nonza</a>, +9 m.; Farinole, 2½ m.; Pont du Patrimonio, 1¼ m.; and +joins the Bastia road at the Col S. Bernardino, 11¼ m. W. +from Bastia.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "bastia_to_calvi" id = +"bastia_to_calvi"> +Bastia to Calvi.</a></h5> + +<h6>57 miles west; time 12 hours; fare 13 and 10 frs.</h6> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "col_teghime" id = "col_teghime"> +<span class = "headnote">Col Teghime.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "miles from"> </span> +<span class = "miles to">57</span> +BASTIA. The road traverses a mountainous country, with scanty +vegetation. As far as St. Florent the prevailing rocks are micaceous and +beyond granitic. Immediately after leaving Bastia the diligence +commences the ascent of the Col de Teghime (1785 feet) in the Serra di +Pigno, discovering as it winds its way upwards, an ever-extending +panorama over the great eastern plain, including Lake Biguglia, and the +Mediterranean with the islands of Elba, Gorgona and Monte Christo. As +the road descends towards the western shore, the enchanting panorama of +the blue gulf of St. Florent, encircled by low reddish rocks, gradually +unfolds itself. It was at this road, made by Count MarbÅ“uf, at which, it +is said, King Bernadotte worked among the other labourers. It passes the +hamlets of Barbaggio and Patrimonio, the Col St. Bernardino 11¼ m. +from Bastia, and the Pont des Strette, and enters the valley of Nebbio, +partly watered by the sluggish Aliso, flowing through a marsh crowded +with oleanders.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "st_florent" id = "st_florent"> +<span class = "headnote">St. Florent.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "miles from">14¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">42¾</span> +ST. FLORENT, pop. 760. Hôtel de l’Europe, where a hurried breakfast can +be had while the horses are being changed. Close to the village is the +site of the ancient town of Nebbio, occupied now by a few poor houses +and a small church, now a ruin, built in the 12th century. Napoleon +said, “St. Florent has one of the finest situations I have ever seen. It +lies most favourably for commerce, its landing +<span class = "pagenum">15</span> +<a name = "page15" id = "page15"> </a> +<!--png 033--> +places are safe and its roads can accommodate large fleets. I should +have built there a large and beautiful city.†It was one of the first +places to give adherence to the Bank of Genoa.</p> + +<p>The road now for some distance leaves the shore and ascends a range +of barren hills containing slate, limestone and granite. Hardy trees +become more abundant than the chestnut, and the mountains higher and +more imposing, as we approach the little port of</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "ilerousse" id = "ilerousse"> +<span class = "headnote">L’Ile Rousse.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "miles from">42</span> +<span class = "miles to">15</span> +L’ILE ROUSSE, pop. 1610; Hotel Europe. The diligence stops in the +“Place†near the monument to Pascal Paoli, and remains a sufficient time +to enable the traveller to cast a glance over the main features of this +port, founded by Paoli in 1759. The street beyond the “Place†leads by +the market to the harbour and to the long jagged tongue of red sandstone +rocks projecting into the sea, bearing on the extreme point a lighthouse +of the fourth order. Steamer every alternate week to Marseilles. There +is a charming view from the eminence St. Reparata, crowned with a +church, now abandoned.</p> + +<p>Inland from L’Ile Rousse is the fertile valley of Balagna, famous for +the size and fertility of its olive trees (<a href = +"#balagna">p. 20</a>).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "miles from">47</span> +<span class = "miles to">10</span> +<a name = "algajola" id = "algajola">ALGAJOLA</a>, pop. 200. The block +of granite which forms the pedestal of the column in the Place Vendome +came from the quarries of this place. Pillars 65 feet long can be +procured from this quarry.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "lumio" id = "lumio"> +<span class = "headnote">Lumio.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "miles from">51</span> +<span class = "miles to">6</span> +LUMIO, pop. 1100, among orange groves and high cactus hedges. From the +hills here there is a beautiful view of the valley and gulf of Calvi. +Junction here with road to Corté, 55½ miles, south-east, passing through +a charming and picturesque country (see <a href = +"#leccia_to_calvi">p. 20</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "calvi" id = "calvi"> +<span class = "headnote">Calvi.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">57</span> +CALVI, pop. 2200. <i>Inns:</i> H. France, in the high town; +*Colombani, in the low town, near the dil. office and the wharf. Steamer +for Marseilles every alternate week. This, the nearest port to France, +is composed of the Citadel or Haute Ville and the Port or Basse Ville. +The former, although the residence of the public functionaries, has a +dilapidated and forsaken appearance. A rough road, paved with blocks of +granite, leads up to it and to the ramparts, commanding beautiful and +extensive views. The houses, shops and streets of the Basse Ville are +much better and more cheerful than those in the Citadel. Both are +defended by Fort Mozzello, rising behind the harbour. On the +Punta-Revellata is a lighthouse of the first order, with a fixed light +seen 20 miles off. Eight miles S.E. from Calvi is <a name = +"calenzana15" id = "calenzana15">Calenzana</a>, pop. 2900, with the +chapel of S. Restituta, visited by pilgrims.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">16</span> +<a name = "page16" id = "page16"> </a> +<!--png 034--> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "calvi_to_ajaccio" id = +"calvi_to_ajaccio"> +Calvi to Ajaccio.</a></h5> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "miles from"> </span> +<span class = "miles to">102</span> +Distance 102 miles S.E. The road skirts the coast the greater part of +the way. The first village is <a name = "galeria" id = +"galeria">Galeria</a>, pop. 500—<i>Inn:</i> Seta, 21 miles S. from +Calvi. From Galeria the Route Forestière, No. 8, extends 16 miles +eastwards to the Col Capronale, 4495 feet, in the forest of Ometa. Six +miles from Galeria is the entrance to the <a name = "treccio" id = +"treccio">forest of evergreen oaks of Treccio</a>, as well as the +commencement of the road, 4½ m. long, to the <a name = "perticato" +id = "perticato">forest of Perticato</a> by the <a name = "col_erbajo16" +id = "col_erbajo16">Col Erbajo</a>, 3½ m., 2090 ft., and the Bocca +Melza, 4½ m. 2500 ft.</p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "galeria_to_filosorma" id = +"galeria_to_filosorma"> +Galeria to the Forests of Filosorma.</a></h5> + +<h6>Grand scenery. Guide necessary. <a href = "#map5">Map, +p. 20</a>.</h6> + +<p class = "smaller"> +This, the forest road No. 8, has two ramifications. The main line +follows the course of the Fango the whole way, and only becomes a +mule-path when near the <a name = "maison_ometa" id = +"maison_ometa">Maison de Cantonniers d’Ometa</a>, 14 m. E.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +3¾ m. from Galeria a mule-path ramifies from the road to the +hamlets of Tuarelli, Prunicciole and Chiorna. 3 m. farther is the +ramification, 4½ m. S., through the forest of Perticato by the Col +d’Erbajo, 2090 ft., 3½ m. S., and the <a name = "boccamelza" +id = "boccamelza">Bocca Melza</a>, 2500 ft., 4½ m. S. From the +Bocca Melza a very bad path leads 2 m. S. to the hamlet of +Pinito. At the beginning of the above ramification the main road enters +the Ilex forest of Treccio, and leaves it nearly 2 m. +afterwards.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +8¾ m. from Galeria is a roadside inn, and 3¼ m. farther the +entrance into the Ilex forest of Ometa.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +11¼ m. from Galeria and about 2 m. from the almost unknown <a name += "lonca" id = "lonca">valley of the Lonca</a>, an affluent of the +Porto, is the Pont de Lancone, 1083 ft., across the Rocce. From this +bridge there is a good view of <a name = "mt_tafonato16" id = +"mt_tafonato16">Mt. Tafonato</a>, 7687 ft., to the N.E., with its +singularly perforated peak.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +13¼ m. is the <a name = "ometa" id = "ometa">Grand Cassis d’Ometa</a>, +1680 ft. A little farther the road becomes a bridle-path, and ascends +from 1677 ft. to the Maison de Cantonniers d’Ometa, 2274 ft., and +1 m. farther is the end of the forest of Ometa.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +15 m. from Galeria is the Grand Cassis de Giargione, 1163 ft., and about +2 m. farther the summit of <a name = "col_capronale" id = +"col_capronale">Col Capronale</a>, 4495 ft. A little way beyond, at the +Capo Guagnerola, is a beautiful semicircle of reddish rocks covered with +trees at the base. Farther E. by the Golo this forest road joins the +forest road No. 9 to Francardo (<a href = +"#porto_to_francardo">p. 18</a>).</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Having crossed the <a name = "col_castellaccio" id = +"col_castellaccio">Col de Castellaccio</a>, 850 feet, and passed through +the villages of Partinello and Vitriccia, 20 m. from Galeria, we +arrive at</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "miles from">51</span> +<span class = "miles to">51</span> +<a name = "porto" id = "porto">PORTO</a> (<i>Inn:</i> H. Padoram), +occupying a pleasant and sheltered situation at the head of a fine gulf, +with a climate rivalling that of Ajaccio. Most of the timber from the +forests of Valdoniello and Perticato is shipped here. For Porto to Ponte +Francardo, see <a href = "#porto_to_francardo">p. 18</a>.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The road from Porto to La Piana (<a href = "#map5">map, p. 20</a>) +affords a delightful +<span class = "pagenum">17</span> +<a name = "page17" id = "page17"> </a> +<!--png 035--> +drive, and exhibits good engineering. It is cut for a considerable +distance through the rocks and cliffs and tall jagged peaks, like +cypresses turned into stone, standing on the edge of this savage coast, +parts of which are truly splendid. As the ascent is slowly continued, +charming views disclose themselves, and on each side of the road the eye +discerns some new beauty to dwell upon. At the Col Geneparo, to the +right are the ruins of the castle of the Colonnas di Leca, rising boldly +above the sea and surrounded and protected by magnificent natural +battlements and pinnacles. Six miles from Porto, after having passed the +Cols of Geneparo and Mezzano, both about 1250 feet, the traveller +reaches</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "lapiana" id = "lapiana"> +<span class = "headnote">La Piana.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "miles from">58</span> +<span class = "miles to">44</span> +LA PIANA, 1587 feet, pop. 1280. <i>Inn:</i> H. France. Delightfully +situated, with a fine sea-view. From the Col San Martino, 1 m. from +La Piana and 1630 feet above the sea, the landscape undergoes a rapid +change. The magnificent rocks become parched and arid and the grass as +yellow as the soil where it tries to grow.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "cargese" id = "cargese"> +<span class = "headnote">Cargésé.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "miles from">70</span> +<span class = "miles to">32</span> +CARGÉSÉ, pop. 1100. <i>Inn:</i> H. de Voyageurs. A large village at +the foot of a hill which slopes down to the sea. It was founded by a +colony of 730 Greeks, who, fleeing from the oppression of the Turks, +arrived and settled here, by the permission of the Genoese, in March +1676. For having refused to aid Paoli in 1755 against the Genoese their +villages were burnt to the ground, and they themselves had to seek +refuge in Ajaccio. After the cession of Corsica to the French in +1769 M. de MarbÅ“uf had the village and church of Cargese built for +the colonists, when they all returned. Greek is still spoken in the +village, and it has a Greek as well as a Romanist priest.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "sagona" id = "sagona"> +<span class = "headnote">Sagona.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "miles from">79</span> +<span class = "miles to">23</span> +SAGONA, pop. 100. The port of Vico. It contains a few houses, one of +which is the inn, where beds, bread, eggs, coffee and wine can be had. +On the beach are generally large logs brought down from the forests for +shipment. Junction with road to Vico 9¼ miles E. (see <a href = +"#vico">p. 23</a>), and also with the <a name = "sagona_to_aitone" +id = "sagona_to_aitone">road extending 19 miles E. to the forest of +Aïtone</a>, passing by the Col Vico, 7½ m., 1607 ft.; Poggio, +12½ m.; the <a name = "col_sevi" id = "col_sevi">Col Sevi</a>, 3612 +ft., 13¼ m.; <a name = "cristinacce" id = +"cristinacce">Cristinacce</a>, 16½ m.; and the <a name = +"col_lacciola" id = "col_lacciola">Col Lacciola</a>, 3040 ft. in the +forest. Five and a half miles from Sagona are the <a name = "caldanella" +id = "caldanella">cold sulphurous springs of Caldanella</a>; efficacious +as a tonic.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "miles from">87½</span> +<span class = "miles to">14½</span> +<a name = "calcatoggio" id = "calcatoggio">CALCATOGGIO</a>, pop. 670. A +poor village on a hill above the road. From this the diligence shortly +after commences the ascent of the <a name = "col_st_sebastien17" id = +"col_st_sebastien17">Col <ins class = "correction" +title = "also called ‘St. Sebastien’">Sebastien</ins></a>, +1344 feet, 12 miles from Ajaccio. +After the Col Sebastien, the road having passed over the Col Staggiola, +930 feet, within a short distance of Appietto, situated on a hill; +reaches</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "miles from">102</span> +<a href = "#ajaccio">AJACCIO</a>, 102 miles south-west from +Calvi.<br> </p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">18</span> +<a name = "page18" id = "page18"> </a> +<!--png 036--> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "porto_to_francardo" id = +"porto_to_francardo"> +Porto to the Ponte Francardo.</a></h5> + +<h6>50 miles north-east. <a href = "#map5">Map, p. 20</a>.</h6> + +<p class = "smaller"> +This important forest road traverses the region of the highest mountains +and of the greatest forests, passes through Albertacce, and by the other +villages of the Canton of Calacuccia, and then proceeds to Francardo by +the defile of the Golo.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a name = "porto_to_evisa" id = "porto_to_evisa"><b>Porto to +Evisa</b></a>, 13¾ m., by an excellent carriage road wending +through most picturesque mountain scenery. The road, after following the +course of the Porto, crosses the stream Onda, ascends the ravine of the +Cario, which it crosses 3 m. from Porto under the Capo Polmonaccia, +5627 ft. It now winds its way round little valleys into the narrow gorge +of the Porto between dark red cliffs crowned with pinnacles. +Nine m. from Porto is the ramification of the mule-path to <a name += "chidazzo" id = "chidazzo">Chidazzo</a>, and ½ m. farther the +ramification to Marignano. The road, after passing the chapelle +S. Cyprien, enters <a name = "evisa18" id = "evisa18">Evisa</a>, +pop. 1000; <i>Inn:</i> *H. Carrara; 2770 ft., on a high promontory +projecting in the centre of a mountain-girt basin from the central range +between two deep gulfs hollowed out to a depth of 2000 ft. Behind it +rise pine forests to a broad mountain crest, the pass of the Niolo.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Evisa is admirably situated for excursions. A difficult winding path +leads in 2½ hours down to the great walls of the dark granite ravine +called the <a name = "spelunca" id = "spelunca">Spelunca</a>, at the +confluence of the Aïtone with the Porto. Rambles and drives into the <a +name = "aitone18" id = "aitone18">forest of Aïtone</a>, from which +unfortunately the old stately pines have disappeared.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a name = "evisa_to_albertacce" id = "evisa_to_albertacce"><b>Evisa to +Albertacce</b></a>, 18 m. E. The road traverses the forest of +Aïtone with its vigorous beeches and young pines (<i>Pinus laricio</i>), +whose stems are clear of branches from 80 to 100 ft. It is watered by +the Porto and numerous brawling streams; which rush down steep ravines +covered with moss and ferns. In the forest, 3 m. from Evisa, by +this road, is the <a name = "maison_aitone" id = "maison_aitone">Maison +forestière d’Aïtone</a>, where those provided with introductions, see <a +href = "#maison">p. 41</a>, will find pleasant headquarters for +grand excursions and fishing and botanical expeditions. 1¼ m. +farther is the <a name = "maison_tagnone" id = "maison_tagnone">house of +the road menders (Cantonniers) of Tagnone</a>; where lodging can also be +had.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The road having made several detours to get round the heads of ravines, +ascends the <a name = "col_vergio" id = "col_vergio">Col de Vergio</a> +4803 ft. on the great mountain chain separating the valley of the Golo +from the valley of the Porto. About 230 ft. above the Col on the Cricche +ridge, a little to the W., is an admirable view of <a name = +"mt_tafonato18" id = "mt_tafonato18">Mt. Tafonato</a>, 7687 ft., almost +due N., with a strange natural tunnel through the summit. From <a name = +"mt_cuculla" id = "mt_cuculla">Mt. Cuculla</a>, 6733 ft., nearly 1¾ +hours W. from the Col is a still better view of Tafonato, and besides a +sight of Mt. Cinto, the valley of the Golo and the mountain range of +Monte Rotondo. A little beyond the summit of the Col is the <a name = +"maison_castellaccio" id = "maison_castellaccio">Maison de Cantonniers +de Castellaccio</a>, whence there is a good view of the <a name = +"valdoniello18" id = "valdoniello18">forest of Valdoniello</a>, 11,483 +acres, containing besides many large pines very fine specimens of +beeches, birches and alders. The felling of the trees in this forest +commenced in 1863.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +After arriving at the <a name = "maison_sciattarina" id = +"maison_sciattarina">Maison forestière de Sciattarina</a> 10½ m. +from +<span class = "pagenum">19</span> +<a name = "page19" id = "page19"> </a> +<!--png 037--> +Evisa, the road passes by some of the finest trees, and descends into +the valley of the <a name = "golo_source" id = "golo_source">Golo</a>; +which has its source in a ravine between Mts. Tafonato and +Paglia-Orba.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Four and a half miles farther is the <a name = "maison_popaja" id = +"maison_popaja">Maison forestière de Popaja</a>, 3468 ft., 15 m. +from Evisa and 3 m. from Albertacce. Either this house or the +former, make good quarters for exploring the forest.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Two miles farther is the Ponte Alto, 2740 ft.; where the road crosses +the Golo and enters the pastoral country of the <a name = "niolo" id = +"niolo">Niolo</a>; now called the canton of Calacuccia, comprehending +the villages of Albertacce, Calacuccia, Corscia, Lozzi, and +Casamaccioli.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +From near the bridge a mule path of 1¾ m. ascends to <a name = +"casamaccioli" id = "casamaccioli">Casamaccioli</a>, 2780 ft., pop. 550; +whence the continuation leads in 7 hours to Corté by the Bocca la Croce, +the Melo forest, and the valley of the Tavignano.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"> +<span class = "headnote">Albertacce.—Monte Cinto.</span></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a name = "albertacce" id = "albertacce">Albertacce</a>, 18 m. from +Evisa, 2845 ft., pop. 1000, a dirty village amidst chestnut and walnut +trees; where a good deal of coarse linen and Corsican cloth is woven. It +is one of the places whence the ascent is made of <a name = "mt_cinto19" +id = "mt_cinto19">Monte Cinto</a>, 8892 ft., in 7 hours, and in about 6 +for the descent. The path ascends by <a name = "calasima" id = +"calasima">Calasima</a>, 3610 ft., to the height of 5251 ft. After this +the course extends almost horizontally in a western direction across +ridges, ascending by gradations more or less fatiguing.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +When about 7720 ft., and having climbed nearly 6 hours, a cave is passed +where shelter can be had. The remainder of the ascent is comparatively +easy. The view is grand, Monte Falo, 8363 ft., being the most prominent +object. The ascent cannot be made till the beginning of summer on +account of the snow.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "nino" id = "nino"> +<span class = "headnote">Lake Nino.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +To <b>Lake Nino</b>, 5598 ft., the source of the Tavignano in 5 hours. +From the lake a mule path chiefly by the left bank of the Tavignano, +leads in 6½ hours to Corté, through magnificent forests.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Around the lake are some shepherds huts; where rest and refreshment can +be had, but no further supply of food can be counted on between the lake +and Corté. The lake, full of fish, lies in a hollow between high +mountains, the highest being <a name = "mt_retto" id = "mt_retto">Mt. +Retto</a>, 6592 at the western end.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a name = "albertacce_to_francardo" id = +"albertacce_to_francardo"><b>Albertacce to Ponte Francardo</b></a>, +18 m. N.E. The road follows the Golo. To the left, a road +1¼ m., leads up to <a name = "lozzi" id = "lozzi">Lozzi</a>, pop. +1050. 2½ m. from Albertacce is <a name = "calacuccia" id = +"calacuccia">Calacuccia</a>, 2779 ft. pop. 860, and 2 m. farther, +another byeroad ascends to <a name = "corscia" id = +"corscia">Corscia</a>, 2913 ft., pop. 1000, about 5 hours walk S. from +Asco, whence also Mt. Cinto may be ascended by the valley of the Asco +called also Stranciacone. <a name = "asco19" id = "asco19">Asco</a> is 5 +hours from Olmi Capella by the Stranciacone, its affluent the +Tassinella, and the <a name = "col_petrella" id = "col_petrella">Col de +Petrella</a>, 6440 ft., to the S. of <a name = "mt_corona19" id = +"mt_corona19">Mt. Corona</a>, 7032 ft.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Near the chapel of S. Pancrazio, 2786 ft., 4 m. from +Albertacce is the commencement of the <a name = "santaregina" id = +"santaregina">Scala di Santa Regina</a>, as this part of road is called, +cut in the face of perpendicular cliffs rising from the bed of the Golo. +About half way are the small chapel and inn of Santa Regina, and the +cave which in former times used to be the stronghold of robbers.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">20</span> +<a name = "page20" id = "page20"> </a> +<!--png 038--> +<p class = "smaller"> +Thirteen miles from Albertacce is the <a name = "diable" id = +"diable">Pont du Diable</a>, 1083 ft., where four roads meet. The road +southwards or to the right leads to Corté, 7 m. S. by Castirla +and Soveria, and the <a name = "col_oninanda" id = "col_oninanda">Col of +Oninanda</a>, 2155 ft., between cliffs rising 1720 ft. +above it.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "asco20" id = "asco20"> +<span class = "headnote">Asco.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The road leading northwards extends to the beautiful highway between <a +name = "leccia_to_calvi" id = "leccia_to_calvi">Ponte alla Leccia and +Calvi</a>; by <a name = "castiglione" id = "castiglione">Castiglione</a> +3¼ m., pop. 550, at the foot of <a name = "mt_traunato" id = +"mt_traunato">Mt. Traunato</a>, 7186 ft., <a name = "popolasca" id = +"popolasca">Popolasca</a>, 7 m., pop. 200, with beautiful red +granite pinnacles, and <a name = "moltifao" id = "moltifao">Moltifao</a> +12 m., pop. 1050, with Inn, consisting of a group of villages, +clustered on the slopes of the ridge which separate the valley of the +Tartagine from the Asco. The byeroad S.W. from Moltifao leads up the +highly picturesque valley of the Asco, with magnificent forest trees, to +the village of <a name = "asco" id = "asco">Asco</a>, pop. 950, a group +of hamlets seldom visited, although one of the best points from which to +make the ascent of <a name = "mt_cinto20" id = "mt_cinto20">Mt. +Cinto</a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "francardo20" id = "francardo20"> +<span class = "headnote">Ponte Francardo.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The road leading 5 m. N.E. by the Golo extends to the <b>Ponte +Francardo</b>, where the rail may be taken. See <a href = +"#francardo9">p. 9</a> and <a href = "#map2">General Map</a>.</p> + +<!--png 039--> +<p class = "illustration"> +<a name = "map5" id = "map5" href = "images/map5.png"> +<img src = "images/map5thumb.png" width = "499" height = "259" +alt = "Corsica Western Central Region" +title = "Corsica Western Central Region"></a></p> + +<p class = "caption"> +Corsica Western Central Region<br> +<a href = "images/map5.png">— larger view —</a></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "calvi_to_bastia" id = +"calvi_to_bastia"> +Calvi to Corté or to Bastia.</a></h5> + +<h6>See <a href = "#map2">General Map</a>.</h6> + +<p class = "smaller"> +By Ponte alla Leccia. The finest part of the road is between Calvi and +the Col Colombano. “If I were to permit myself to dwell in detail on the +exquisite variety and charm of the drive, especially after quitting the +<i>route forestière</i> a little E. of the hamlet of Palasca, I should +wander far from the main purpose of this paper. Valery, Gregorovius, +Lear and others have done justice to its wonderful beauty, and the last +truly remarks that ‘those who visit Corsica without going through upper +Balagne remain ignorant of one of its finest divisions,’ adding, ‘no +description can exaggerate the beauty of this remarkable tract of +mountain background and deep valley, which for richness of foreground, +cheerful fertility and elegance of distance may compete with most +Italian landscapes.’ The district is densely peopled—at least +twelve large villages are situated on the road itself between Belgodere +and Lumio, a distance of 21 miles—and picturesque hamlets with +lofty campanili perch high up on the mountain slopes or crown the +summits of the lower hills, whilst everywhere there is the richest +culture and most varied produce, and the charm of the picture is +completed by continually varying views over ‘bowery hollows crowned with +summer sea.’‗F. F. Tuckett, Alpine Club.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "olive" id = "olive"> +<span class = "headnote">The Olive Tree.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>CORTÉ</span> +<span class = "miles from"> </span> +<span class = "miles to">61</span> +CALVI. The road skirts the coast as far as Lumio, 6 m. from Calvi, +whence it commences to ascend gradually by an admirably engineered road +round the undulations of olive-clad mountains, disclosing at every turn +a different view of <a name = "balagna" id = "balagna">the fertile +valley of Balagna</a>, extending from the distant mountains to the blue +waters of the Mediterranean. It is said that there is no district +throughout the whole of Italy where the olive attains such a size as in +this valley. Of the tree there are three varieties, the Sabine +(<i>Sabinacci</i>), the Saracen (<i>Saraceni</i>), +<span class = "pagenum">21</span> +<a name = "page21" id = "page21"> </a> +<!--png 040--> +and the Genoese (<i>Genovesi</i>), the most common of all, and is +ascribed to the Genoese, who during the government of Agostino Doria +compelled the Corsicans to plant olives in great numbers.</p> + +<p>After passing the picturesquely situated village of <a name = +"lavatoggio" id = "lavatoggio">Lavatoggio</a>, 9 m.; the Col +Cesario, 1200 ft., 10½ m.; the villages of <a name = "feliceto21" +id = "feliceto21">Feliceto</a>, inn, pop. 640, 16¼ m.; Castor, +24 m.; <a name = "speloncato" id = "speloncato">Speloncato</a>; +Ville di <a name = "paraso" id = "paraso">Paraso</a>, pop. 750; +Occhiatana, and many more perched on the surrounding mountain tops, or +nestling in nooks among olive and chestnut trees, the diligence +arrives at</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "belgodere" id = "belgodere"> +<span class = "headnote">Belgodere.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>CORTÉ</span> +<span class = "miles from">26¾</span> +<span class = "miles to">34¼</span> +BELGODERE 1017 feet, pop. 950, commanding the finest view of this +beautiful valley, its orchards, fields and mountains undulating towards +the blue sea. The diligence just remains long enough to give time to run +through the gate and up the narrow dirty street to the top of the rock +on which the houses are clustered, and there to take a rapid glance at +the lovely scene around and underneath. After the gate, the diligence +halts at the post-office, and then moves on a few yards towards the +stables, where the horses are changed.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "tartagine" id = "tartagine"> +<span class = "headnote">Capella.—Tartagine Forest.</span></a></p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "belgodere_to_tartagine" +id = "belgodere_to_tartagine">Forest Road from Belgodere to the Forest +of Tartagine.</a></h5> + +<p class = "smaller"> +From Belgodere, Route Forestière, No. 3, leads down to the small port of +Losari, 6 miles N. from Belgodere and 4½ E. from the Ile Rousse. A +continuation of the same route southward extends to the bridge across +the Tartagine, 2355 feet, 25 miles from the Ile Rousse, in the great +forest of Tartagine. It passes the Bocca Campana, 2782 feet, 3¼ miles +from Belgodere; the Bocca Croce, 3045 feet, the culminating part of the +road, 7 miles from Belgodere; and 2½ miles farther, the +hamlets of Olmi and Capella, 9 miles from Speloncato; with +ever-varying mountain and village scenes among great forests; 20 m. +from Belgodere is the Pont Tartagine in the forest of that name. The +forest of Tartagine, enclosed within the high crests of the <a name = +"dentecapo" id = "dentecapo">Capo Dente</a> 6667 ft. on the west, and of +<a name = "mt_padro21" id = "mt_padro21">Mt. Padro</a> on the east, +measures 7166 acres, and contains principally the <i>Pinus laricio</i> +and the <i>P. pinaster</i>, intermingled with ilexes or evergreen oaks +(<a href = "#evergreen">p. 41</a>).</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a name = "belgodere_to_olmi" id = "belgodere_to_olmi">“</a><a name = +"olmi" id = "olmi">Olmi-Capella</a> 2723 ft. is in an open airy +situation, commanding fine views of the mountains to the S. and S.W., +and protected to some extent on the N. and N.W. by the ridge which +sweeps round to the head of the Tartagine valley. This ridge, though in +the neighbourhood of the village only about 1000 ft. above the sloping +plateau on which it is built, rises to the W. into the peaks of Monte +Tolo 4370 ft., Monte San Parteo 5512 ft., <a name = "mt_cineraggia" id = +"mt_cineraggia">Monte Cineraggia</a> 5286 ft., <a name = +"ajaccio_to_evisa" id = "mt_grosso">Monte Grosso</a> 6227 ft., Punta +Radiche 6595 ft., Capo al Dente 6667 ft., and <a name = "mt_corona21" id += "mt_corona21">Monte Corona</a> 7031 ft. The N. slope of this ridge is +very steep, and commands most magnificent views of the Haute Balagne and +the sea beyond, whilst it is traversed by numerous passes which afford +charming scenery. Besides the <i>route forestière</i>, which crosses the +Col de Bocca +<span class = "pagenum">22</span> +<a name = "page22" id = "page22"> </a> +<!--png 041--> +Croce 3048 ft., and by which the timber of the forest of Tartagine +is conveyed to Ile Rousse for shipment, several mule-paths connect Olmi +Capella much more directly with <a name = "ville" id = "ville">Ville</a> +and Speloncato by the Bocca Battaglia 3550 ft., and Bocca Croce d’Ovo +3629 feet; with <a name = "feliceto22" id = "feliceto22">Feliceto</a> by +the Bocca Pianile 5033 ft.; with Zilia and Calvi by the <a name = +"bocca_cineraggia" id = "bocca_cineraggia">Bocca di Cineraggia</a> 4698 +ft.; with <a name = "calenzana22" id = "calenzana22">Calenzana</a> by +the <a name = "biancabocca" id = "biancabocca">Bocca Bianca</a> 6155 +ft., with Calenzana or the Val Ficarella by the Bocca di Tartagine 6093 +ft.; and with the head of the valley of Asco by the Bocca de l’Ondella +6086 ft.‗F. F. Tuckett, Alpine Club.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "palasca" id = "palasca"> +<span class = "headnote">Palasca.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>CORTÉ</span> +<span class = "miles from">28¾</span> +<span class = "miles to">32¼</span> +PALASCA pop. 550. Situated lower down than the high road and the last +village on this side of the</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>CORTÉ</span> +<span class = "miles from">31½</span> +<span class = "miles to">29½</span> +<a name = "col_st_colombano" id = "col_st_colombano">COL DE SAN +COLOMBANO</a> 2625 feet above the sea. The view though more vast is less +distinct, presenting a succession of mountain-tops, between which are +dimly seen valleys with the sea in the distance. The diligence now +descends into the narrow, rocky vale of the Navaccia, an affluent of the +Tartagine, which enters the Golo a little above the important bridge +called the</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "leccia22" id = "leccia22"> +<span class = "headnote">Ponte alla Leccia.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>CORTÉ</span> +<span class = "miles from">46¾</span> +<span class = "miles to">14¼</span> +PONTE ALLA LECCIA. Inn at station. Here take rail for Corté (see <a href += "#corte">p. 8</a>) or for Bastia, 29 miles N.E. (see <a href = +"#bastia">p. 10</a>). The <a name = "pontenovo22" id = +"pontenovo22">Ponte Nuovo</a> is distinctly seen from the station. The +two small houses near the railway bridge, on the S. side of the Golo, +were Paoli’s headquarters during the battle (see pp. <a href = +"#leccia9">9</a> and <a href = "#paoli">39</a>).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>CALVI</span> +<span class = "miles from">61</span> +<a href = "#corte">CORTÉ</a>, see <a href = "#corte">page 8</a>.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"> +Ajaccio to Vico and Evisa.</a></h5> + +<h6>33 miles north; time 7 to 8 hours; fare 4 frs.</h6> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>VICO</span> +<span class = "miles from"> </span> +<span class = "miles to">33</span> +AJACCIO. At about two miles from the town the diligence commences the +ascent of the low Col of Stileto, passing the aqueduct for the Gravona +water. On the left hand are the granite quarries whence the large slabs +were taken for the monument to Napoleon in the Place d’Armes, as well as +the long blocks for the pillars of the Marseilles cathedral. <a name = +"appietto" id = "appietto">To the right are the village of Appietto</a>, +pop. 700, on a hill and the great cliff <a name = "mt_gozzi" id = +"mt_gozzi">Monte Gozzi</a>, 656 feet high.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>VICO</span> +<span class = "miles from">12</span> +<span class = "miles to">21</span> +Summit of the <a name = "col_st_sebastien22" id = +"col_st_sebastien22">COL <ins class = "correction" +title = "also called ‘Sebastien’ alone">ST. SEBASTIEN</ins></a>, +1344 feet above the sea, +commanding a lovely prospect of the Bays of Liscia, Sagona and Cargésé, +and of the valley of Cinarca, with its villages and vineyards. At the +foot of the Col is a small inn called Le Repos des Voyageurs, where +bread and wine and <a name = "seaurchins" id = "seaurchins">capital +sea-urchins</a> can be had. They are eaten raw, and taken out of the +shell by cutting it in two horizontally.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">23</span> +<a name = "page23" id = "page23"> </a> +<!--png 042--> + +<p> +<!--omit sidenote to avoid collision--> +<span class = "miles from">23</span> +<span class = "miles to">10</span> +<a name = "sagona23" id = "sagona23">SAGONA</a> junction with road to +Calvi, 79 miles N. (see <a href = "#sagona">p. 17</a>).</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>VICO</span> +<span class = "miles from">31</span> +<span class = "miles to">2</span> +Summit of the <a name = "col_st_antoine" id = "col_st_antoine">COL ST. +ANTOINE</a>, 1488 feet. <a name = "balogna" id = "balogna">Near the top, +at some distance to the left, is the village of Balogna</a>, pop. 600, +while in front is seen the splendid range of the Monte Rotondo, among +which the most conspicuous is La Sposata, at the head of wooded +valleys.</p> + +<p>The road to the left or N. leads to <a name = "evisa23" id = +"evisa23"><b>Evisa</b></a>, 18 miles from Vico, pop. 1000, and 2770 feet +above the sea. <i>Hotel:</i> Carrara, a comfortable house, where +vehicles may be hired. Evisa is charmingly situated on the confines of +the <a name = "aitone23" id = "aitone23">forest of Aïtone</a>, +containing 3,749 acres. Beyond Aïtone, or 11 miles from Evisa, is the +large <a name = "valdoniello23" id = "valdoniello23">forest of +Valdoniello</a>, 11,483 acres. These forests, instead of extending +monotonously on large plains, plunge into deep valleys, or creep up the +sides of high mountains.</p> + +<p>From Evisa descend to Porto (see <a href = +"#porto_to_evisa">p. 18</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "vico" id = "vico"> +<span class = "headnote">Vico.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "miles from">33</span> +VICO pop. 2020. <i>Inns:</i> France, where the diligence stops; +Voyageurs; Univers. Most picturesquely situated in the valley of the +Liamone, surrounded by steep mountains covered with apple, peach, +chestnut, walnut, olive and oak trees. On the opposite side of the +valley is the large whitewashed convent of St. Francis, with terraced +garden shaded by tall magnolias, beautifully placed on a thickly-wooded +bank, above which is seen the small hamlet of Nessa. It is a favourite +summer resort of the <i>élite</i> of Ajaccio, who revel here on carpets +of cyclamen, violets, and a profusion of other wild flowers, in the +shade of the dense foliage of the chestnut groves around.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "guagno" id = "guagno"> +<span class = "headnote">Baths of Guagno.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Seven and a half miles from Vico up the wooded vale of the Liamone and +by the Bridges of Silvani and Belfiori, the village of Murzo and the Col +de Sorro, are the Baths of Guagno, with hot, sulphurous springs, +resembling in their properties those of Bareges in the Pyrenees (see +Black’s <i>South France</i>). From May to September they are much +frequented, when a coach runs between Vico and Guagno. Time, 2 hours; +fare, 3 frs. Coaches can be hired at Vico for Evisa. Charge, 10 +frs.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "ajaccio_to_sartene" id = +"ajaccio_to_sartene"> +Ajaccio to Sartène.</a></h5> + +<h6>53 m. S. by diligence, over a hilly road; 13 hrs.</h6> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>SARTÈNE</span> +<span class = "miles from"> </span> +<span class = "miles to">53</span> +AJACCIO. The most comfortable way to go to Sartène is to take the +steamer to Propriano, only 8 miles N. from Sartène, and there to +await the daily coach. The diligence from Ajaccio, after having crossed +the rivers Gravona, Prunelli, Agnone, Vergajolo and Margone, and the +pass of Campolaccio, 843 feet, arrives at</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "cauro" id = "cauro"> +<span class = "headnote">Cauro.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>SARTÈNE</span> +<span class = "miles from">12½</span> +<span class = "miles to">40½</span> +CAURO or CAVRO, 1180 ft. <i>Inn.</i> Coach to Bastelica. Pop. 700. A +straggling mountain village, commanding extensive views.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">24</span> +<a name = "page24" id = "page24"> </a> +<!--png 043--> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "cauro_to_bastelica" id = +"cauro_to_bastelica"> +Cauro to Bastelica.</a></h5> + +<p class = "smaller"> +12 m. northwards by “Courrier†by a charming forest road, which +after crossing the Else at the Pont Zipitoli, 7 m. from Cauro, +enters the defile of the Prunelli at the <a name = "col_menta" id = +"col_menta">Col de Menta</a>, about 2 m. from Bastelica.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The road from Cauro crosses the Col Torro, 1394 ft., 1½ m. Four +miles, the col and bridge S. Alberto, 1710 ft. whence a road +ramifies 7½ m. S. to S. Maria-Siché and Grossetto. On the +right side of the road a waterfall descends from the crest of the +Usciolo. Large oaks and chestnut trees with ilexes and pines are now +seen. 7 m. here a short branch road leads to a maison forestière +surrounded by large trees, at the foot of Mt. Mantelluccio, 5515 ft. A +little farther a road ramifies 4½ m. by the wild and beautiful <a +name = "else" id = "else">valley of the Else</a> into the <a name = +"ponteniello" id = "ponteniello">forest of Ponteniello</a>, and where it +ends a mule path commences to <a name = "frasseto24" id = +"frasseto24">Frasseto</a>, pop. 750, on the coach road between Ajaccio +and the baths of Guitera. 7½ m. the Zipitoli bridge across the +Else, a short way above its junction with the Prunelli. On the right +side of the river is the <a name = "maison_zipitoli" id = +"maison_zipitoli">Maison de Cantonniers of Zipitoli</a>.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +8 m. The Col Crichetto, 2380 ft., and nearly 3 m. farther the +Col Menta, 2458 ft., from which the road descends to the Prunelli and +continues by its banks to</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "dominicacci" id = "dominicacci"> +<span class = "headnote">Dominicacci.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a name = "bastelica" id = "bastelica"><b>Bastelica</b></a>, pop. 4000, +inn, 2400 ft., consisting of a group of hamlets, none of which bears the +name of Bastelica. <a name = "sampiero24" id = "sampiero24">Sampiero</a> +was born in the one called Dominicacci, between Stazzona and Costa, at +the end of the 15th cent., and killed by the Ornanos in the defile of +the Prunelli on the 17th January 1567. The house which stands on the +site of the one he lived in bears an epitaph to his memory, placed by +“<a name = "wyse" id = "wyse">William Wyse</a>, Irish Roman Catholic, +nephew of Napoleon the Great.â€</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "renoso24" id = "renoso24"> +<span class = "headnote">Mt. Renoso.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Among the many pleasant excursions is the ascent of <a name = +"mt_renoso24" id = "mt_renoso24">Mt. Renoso</a>, 7733 ft., 5½ hrs. +N.E.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +In summer men go up every day with mules for frozen snow. There are +lakes on the south and east sides of the mountain, and some fine velvety +swards. <a href = "#map6">Map, p. 27</a>.</p> + +<p>Five miles beyond Cauro, the Sartène road attains the summit of the +<a name = "col_st_georges" id = "col_st_georges">Col St. Georges</a>, +2500 ft., commanding a fine prospect of the surrounding country, and +afterwards descends to the valley of Ornano, the native land of Vanina, +traversed by the Taravo.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>SARTÈNE</span> +<span class = "miles from">20</span> +<span class = "miles to">33</span> +<a name = "apa" id = "apa">APA</a> whence a Route Departamentale extends +18 m. N.E. to the baths of Guitera and Zicavo. <a href = +"#map2">Maps, pp. 1</a> and <a href = "#map6">27</a>.</p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "ajaccio_to_zicavo" id = +"ajaccio_to_zicavo">Ajaccio to Zicavo and the Baths of Guitera.</a></h5> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "guitera" id = "guitera"> +<span class = "headnote">Baths of Guitera.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +8¼ hrs. by coach and 39 m. from Ajaccio by the Apa mill, 1841 ft., +then by the slopes of the Punta del <a name = "castello" id = +"castello">Castello</a>, 2674 ft., through a charming country, to <a +name = "st_maria" id = "st_maria"><b>S. Maria-Siché</b></a>, +2 m. from Apa, inn where coach stops, pop. 800. An old lofty +building here of granite, with the remains of towers blackened by age, +was the birthplace of the unfortunate +<span class = "pagenum">25</span> +<a name = "page25" id = "page25"> </a> +<!--png 044--> +<a name = "vanina25" id = "vanina25">Vanina</a>, strangled by Sampiero, +<a href = "#vanina38">p. 39</a>. The ruins of the chateau he built +for himself in 1554, after his house had been destroyed, are seen on a +hill to the left of the road. Coaches for Ajaccio, Guitera, Zicavo, and +Propriano. 4½ m. from Apa at <a name = "campo" id = +"campo">Campo</a>, pop. 390, the road describes a great circuit to get +round the head of the defile of the torrent of Frasseto, an affluent of +the Taravo. 1¼ m. farther is <a name = "frasseto25" id = +"frasseto25">Frasseto</a>, pop. 740. When about 2770 feet high there is, +through an opening, a superb view extending to the sea by the valley of +the Frasseto. 8 m. from Apa is the <a name = "col_granace" id = +"col_granace">Col de Granace</a>,<a class = "tag" href = "#noteB" name = +"tagBt" id = "tagBt">B*</a> 2713 ft., with a splendid view. <a name += "zecavo" id = "zecavo">Zecavo</a>, 10 m., 2238 ft., pop. 510, on +an affluent of the Taravo. Then rounding the buttresses of the <a name = +"sposata" id = "sposata">Sposata</a>, 3288 ft., enter the village of +Corrano, 12 m., pop. 470, in a lovely situation. 14½ m. from +Apa and 34½ from Ajaccio are the hot sulphurous springs of +<b>Guitera</b>, with hotel, 1437 ft., on the right bank of the Taravo, +an excellent trout stream. Coach to and from Ajaccio during the season, +from May to September. Pleasantly situated among cork oaks and banks +covered with the Osmunda fern. The road from the Baths of Guitera up to +Zicavo, 3½ m., follows for about 1 m. the Taravo till its +union with the torrent from <a name = "mt_coscione" id = +"mt_coscione">Mt. Coscione</a>, whence it climbs up through the +gorge to</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "zicavo" id = "zicavo"> +<span class = "headnote">Zicavo.—Mt. Incudine.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<b>Zicavo</b>, pop. 1500, hotel, <ins class = "correction" +title = "map has 2345 ft.">2385 ft.</ins>, +charmingly situated, overlooking the +valley of the Taravo, 38 m. by coach from Ajaccio. From Zicavo the +ascent is made of <a name = "mt_incudine" id = "mt_incudine">Monte +<b>Incudine</b></a>, 7008 ft., in 6 hrs. <b>Mules</b> can be employed to +within ½ hr. of summit. Although not difficult, guide and mule are +advisable, if for nothing else than to assist in fording the streams. +After having passed the chapel of S. Roch, ascend a steep mule +path, right, among the largest and best formed chestnut trees in the +island, then rounding Mt. Buchino, 3623 ft., among ilexes, and Mt. +Occhiato, 5749 ft., covered with beech trees, ascend southwards by a +wooded ravine between great rocks. Between 2 and 3 hrs. the Pastures of +the plain of Coscione, with many shepherds’ huts, are reached, whence +Mt. Incudine is seen. After leaving this the path becomes very bad, over +loose stones and across troublesome torrents. These are succeeded by an +annoying thick coppice of alders, and then the Col de Cheralba, 6345 +ft., is ascended, in about 5½ hrs. from starting. The mules are left +here, and the ascent is made by the western flank, taking care to make +the guide understand that the highest peak is wanted, and not the Rocher +de l’Incudine.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"> +<span class = "headnote">Nelson.</span></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +“The view is probably the most beautiful in Corsica—a vast +panorama full of variety. Steep pine clad hills sink abruptly into the +eastern sea; glens open southward on a rich glowing valley; the blue +depths of the bays are fringed with an edging of white sand and green +water. The great granite aiguilles of the forest of Bavella, a strange +array of horns and pinnacles, run across the foreground; to the left the +long fiord of Porto Vecchio stretches far into the land; while in the +centre of the picture are spread out the broad Straits of Bonifacio, +studded with pale isles and islets. On the left is Caprera, the home of +the liberator of the Two Sicilies. The one beside it, <a name = +"maddalena" id = "maddalena">Maddalena</a>, is linked with even greater +memories—<a name = "nelson" id = "nelson">Nelson and Napoleon</a>. +Under its lee, in a bay which +<span class = "pagenum">26</span> +<a name = "page26" id = "page26"> </a> +<!--png 045--> +Nelson christened ‘Agincourt Sound,’ the British fleet lay for months +before the battle of the Nile, watching for the French squadron +sheltered behind the guns of Toulon. Two silver candlesticks on the +altar of the village church record Nelson’s gratitude for the friendly +services of the inhabitants. It was in attacking this same village that +<a name = "napoleon26" id = "napoleon26">Napoleon</a>, in 1793, first +saw fire. For mountain views the Alpine clubman is spoilt, but for sea +views, and they are not less beautiful, he must go far, perhaps as far +as Greece, to find such another.‗D. F. Freshfield, Alpine +Club. See <a href = "#map1">map on fly-leaf</a>.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>SARTÈNE</span> +<span class = "miles from">21</span> +<span class = "miles to">32</span> +<a name = "grosseto" id = "grosseto">GROSSETO</a> 1476 feet, pop. 600; +4½ hours by diligence from Ajaccio. +<span class = "smaller">A little beyond the inn is the church, sheltered +by large ilex trees, which grow to a great height in this +neighbourhood.</span> </p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>SARTÈNE</span> +<span class = "miles from">30</span> +<span class = "miles to">23</span> +<a name = "bicchisano" id = "bicchisano">BICCHISANO</a> 350 feet, pop. +1800, where the passengers dine. +<span class = "smaller">The diligence then passes the villages of +Petreto and <a name = "cassalabriva" id = +"cassalabriva">Cassalabriva</a>, pop. 300, and shortly afterwards +reaches the summit of the <a name = "col_celaccia" id = +"col_celaccia">Col Celaccia</a>, 1910 feet, about 2½ m. E. +from <a name = "sollacaro" id = "sollacaro">Sollacaro</a>, pop. 800, +where Boswell visited Paoli. Sollacaro is not on the highroad.</span> +</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "olmeto" id = "olmeto"> +<span class = "headnote">Olmeto.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>SARTÈNE</span> +<span class = "miles from">39</span> +<span class = "miles to">14</span> +OLMETO pop. 1650, hotel. On a hill, with an extensive view. +<span class = "smaller">In the neighbourhood, on Monte Buttareto, are +the ruins of the castle of Arrigo della Rocca. No more beautiful sight +than that of Olmeto can be pictured. Immediately below the town the +ground dips steeply down, covered with corn or turf; or in terraces of +vineyard, varied with large groups of fine olive trees stretching down +to the shore. Above the village a vast growth of vegetation climbs the +heights. Among huge masses of granite are tangles of every shrub the +island produces, the wild olive or oleaster being one of the most +elegant; while every part of the heights close to the town abounds with +little picture subjects, with a clear blue sky for a background.</span> +</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The road now descends to the coast, and after crossing the Baracci, near +the <a name = "baracci" id = "baracci">hot sulphurous mineral baths of +Baracci</a>, arrives at</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "propriano" id = "propriano"> +<span class = "headnote">Propriano.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>SARTÈNE</span> +<span class = "miles from">44½</span> +<span class = "miles to">8½</span> +PROPRIANO pop. 1000. H. France. +<span class = "smaller">Every Saturday a steamer arrives from Ajaccio, +and returns on the Monday morning. Another steamer twice weekly between +this and Ajaccio. Near the bridge over the Rizzanèse, are the two Celtic +monuments called the Stazione del’ Diavolo.</span> </p> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "propriano_to_solenzara" id = +"propriano_to_solenzara">Propriano to Solenzara.</a></h5> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Two and a half miles beyond the bridge commences the Route Forestière, +No. 4, leading to Solenzara, 42½ m. N.E. This road ascends by the +Rizzanese to <a name = "st_lucia26" id = "st_lucia26">S. Lucia di +Tallano</a>, whence eastward to <a name = "levie26" id = +"levie26">Levie</a>, 1970 ft.; and thence <a name = "zonza26" id = +"zonza26">Zonza</a>, 2586 ft. The road afterwards ascends N.E. by a +picturesque ravine to the <a name = "col_bavella26" id = +"col_bavella26">Col Bavella</a>, 3965 ft.; whence after descending to +the Maison Cantonniere, 1476 ft., it crosses the <a name = +"col_larone26" id = "col_larone26">Col Larone</a>, 2013; whence it +descends by a winding road partly by the banks of the Fiumicello and +partly by the R. Solenzara to Solenzara (see <a href = +"#solenzara_to_sartene">p. 36</a>).</p> + +<p><span class = "pagenum">27</span> +<a name = "page27" id = "page27"> </a> +<!--png 047--> +Shortly after crossing the Rizzanese the diligence commences the long +ascent to Sartène, disclosing views of the great valley below and of the +splendid snowy heights of the long range of mountains opposite, +terminating in the lofty regions of the great Monte Incudine, +7008 ft.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "sartene" id = "sartene"> +<span class = "headnote">Sartène.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>AJACCIO</span> +<span class = "miles from">53</span> +SARTÈNE 1000 feet; pop. 6010; <i>Inns:</i> Commerce: Univers. +<span class = "smaller">Coaches daily to and from Ajaccio, Bonifacio and +Santa Lucia di Tallano. Old Sartène is a town of narrow streets +approached by a fine bridge, whence the whole valley is seen down to the +Gulf of Valinco. It still retains some towers and parts of the walls +erected in the 16th century. The houses are built of rough, dark gray +granite, with steep stone steps leading up to the main entrance, and odd +Italian chimneys, some in the shape of pillars with curious capitals, +others in the form of towers or obelisks. The houses bordering the +Nouvello Traverse and the streets leading into the “Place†form the new +town.</span> </p> + + +<!--png 046--> +<p class = "illustration"> +<a name = "map6" id = "map6" href = "images/map6.png"> +<img src = "images/map6thumb.png" width = "264" height = "440" +alt = "Corsica, Central Region" +title = "Corsica, Central Region"></a></p> + +<p class = "caption"> +Corsica, Central Region<br> +<a href = "images/map6.png">— larger view —</a></p> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "sartene_to_corte" id = +"sartene_to_corte">Sartène to Corté by Vivario,</a></h5> + +<h6>up the centre of the island. <a href = "#map2">Maps, pp. 1</a> and +<a href = "#map6">27</a>.</h6> + +<p class = "smaller"> +This grand mountain road, No. 196 bis, extends from Sartène, +73 m. N. to the Ajaccio and Corté road, which it joins at the +60 <ins class = "correction" +title = "inconsistency in original">kilometres-stone</ins>, +on the Col Serra, ½ mile from Vivario. +All the diligences between Ajaccio and Corté halt at the inn of Vivario +(<a href = "#vivario">p. 8</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "st_lucia27" id = "st_lucia27"> +<span class = "headnote">S. Lucia di Tallano.</span></a></p> + +<p>After leaving Sartène the road crosses the Fiumicicoli and ascends +the valley of the Rizzanese to Loreto, 12 m., and <a name = +"cargiaca" id = "cargiaca">Cargiaca</a> 15 m. N. from Sartène +1302 ft.; grand view. Near Loreto is S. Lucia di Tallano, 1270 ft., +with a quarry of a beautiful <a name = "amphibole" id = +"amphibole">amphibole</a>, a variety of hornblende. The ground colour is +grayish blue sprinkled with white and margined with black spots (see <a +href = "#campolajo">p. 37</a>).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "zicavo27" id = "zicavo27"> +<span class = "headnote">Zicavo.</span></a></p> + +<p>From Cargiaca the road enters the valley of the Coscione and ascends +through the <a name = "taca" id = "taca">ilex forest of Taca</a> amidst +towering mountains and vertical cliffs by <a name = "aullene" id = +"aullene">the villages of Zerubia and Aullene</a>, 2736 ft., pop. 1100; +inn; 21 m. N. from Sartène. It now crosses the Coscione, 3492 +ft., then the Col Vaccia, 3898 ft., and descends by the Col d’Alisandri, +3426 ft., to <b>Zicavo</b>, <ins class = "correction" +title = "map has 2345 ft.">2445 ft.</ins>, +with an inn, 17 m. from Aullene, +3½ m. E. from the baths of Guitera, 38 m. N. from +Sartène and 37 m. S. from Vivario.</p> + +<p>From the Bocca Tinzole a road ramifies N.W. to <a name = "olivese" id += "olivese">Olivese</a> 1460 ft., pop. 700, in the valley of the +<b>Taravo</b>, 7 m. from Guitera by a beautiful road.</p> + +<p>From Zicavo the road crosses the Col San Francesco, 1969 ft., to <a +name = "cozzano" id = "cozzano">Cozzano</a>, 40 m., pop. 900, and +enters the valley of the Taravo, which it ascends by the east bank +between two great mountain chains, the culminating point of the western +chain being <a name = "mt_dongiovanni" id = "mt_dongiovanni">Mt. Don +Giovanni</a> 6405 ft., and that of the eastern <a name = "mt_capella" id += "mt_capella">Pointe Capella</a> 6706 ft.</p> + +<p><span class = "pagenum">28</span> +<a name = "page28" id = "page28"> </a> +<!--png 048--> +Three and a quarter miles up the valley from Cozzano a wheel road leads +1½ m. E. to the <a name = "maison_st_antoine" id = +"maison_st_antoine">Maison Forestière of St. Antoine</a>, whence a mule +path by the Col de <a name = "col_rapara" id = "col_rapara">Rapara</a>, +5557 ft., extends to <a name = "isolaccio" id = +"isolaccio">Isolaccio</a> and the <a name = "pietrapola28" id = +"pietrapola28">hot baths of Pietrapola</a>, <a href = +"#vivario_to_pietrapola">p. 8</a>, by a picturesque road through a +beautiful part of the forest.</p> + +<p>Four and a half miles above Cozzano is the <a name = "col_scrivano" +id = "col_scrivano">Col Scrivano</a>, 2959 ft., whence a mule path leads +across the valley to <a name = "palneca" id = "palneca">Palneca</a>, +pop. 1050, on the wooded slopes of Mt. Pietra Cinta, 4958 ft.</p> + +<p>A little below the summit of the Col is the <a name = +"maison_scrivano" id = "maison_scrivano">Maison de Cantonniers de +Scrivano</a>.</p> + +<p>Nine and a half miles N. from Zicavo is the bridge Argentuccia, +fronting a grand semi-circle of mountains covered with noble trees. This +is the commencement of the real Verde forest.</p> + +<p>Eleven and three quarter miles from <a name = "zicavo28" id = +"zicavo28">Zicavo</a> is the <a name = "maison_ghiraldino" id = +"maison_ghiraldino">Maison de Cantonniers de Ghiraldino</a>, 3936 ft., +49 m. N. from Sartène, 2 m. S. from the Col Verde +and 5 m. S. from the House of Refuge of Marmano. A little +beyond the house a wheel road, left, descends into one of the finest +parts of the <a name = "verde_forest" id = "verde_forest">Verde +forest</a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "col_verde" id = "col_verde"> +<span class = "headnote">Col Verde.</span></a></p> + +<p>Thirteen and three quarter miles from Zicavo and 51 m. from +Sartène is the Col Verde, 4290 ft., with, nearly a mile distant, the <a +name = "maison_marmano" id = "maison_marmano">Maison de Cantonniers de +Marmano</a>. Below is the <a name = "marmano_forest" id = +"marmano_forest">forest of Marmano</a>, with its best trees cut down, +and in the neighbourhood the sources of the rivers <a name = "taravo" id += "taravo">Taravo</a>, 5678 ft., at the Col Tisina, of the <a name = +"fium_orbo" id = "fium_orbo">Fium Orbo</a>, 3783 ft. under a mountain a +little to the N. of the Col Verde, and of the <a name = "prunelli" id = +"prunelli">Prunelli</a>, 4790 ft., among a group of high mountains to +the W. The <a name = "vecchio" id = "vecchio">Vecchio</a> rises +from the springs on Mt. Oro.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "marmano" id = "marmano"> +<span class = "headnote">Refuge de Marmano.</span></a></p> + +<p>Seventeen miles from Zicavo and 54 m. from Sartène is the Refuge +de Marmano, 3182 ft., beautifully situated. Here was formerly the summer +station of the <a name = "casabianda" id = "casabianda">Casabianda</a> +penitentiary. The escaped criminals committed such outrages that the +government at the repeated petitioning of the shepherds were obliged to +withdraw it. Finally Casabianda was abandoned also, and the prisoners +removed to the neighbourhood of Ajaccio, where they could be well looked +after.</p> + +<p>Food and lodging may be obtained at the Maison Forestière, or +1¼ m. farther at the <a name = "maison_canareccia" id = +"maison_canareccia">Maison de Cantonniers de Canareccia</a>, 2760 ft., +in the rocky defile of the Fium Orbo. Between this and Ghisoni, +6 m., 3 bridges and 2 low Cols are crossed. At the second +bridge, the Pont de Casso, 4½ m. from Ghisoni, are seen the great +pinnacles or needles and lofty cliffs of <a name = "albuccia" id = +"albuccia">Albuccia Point</a> or <a name = "kyrie" id = "kyrie">Kyrie +Eleison</a>, 4935 ft.</p> + +<p>From the Canaraccia the road winds its way northward along the +<span class = "pagenum">29</span> +<a name = "page29" id = "page29"> </a> +<!--png 049--> +flanks of mountains sloping down to the Orbo, which it leaves shortly +before reaching</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "ghisoni" id = "ghisoni"> +<span class = "headnote">Ghisoni.—Col Sorba.</span></a></p> + +<p><b>Ghisoni</b>, pop. 1740, 2160 ft., 62 m. N. from Sartène, +12 m. S. from <a name = "vivario29" id = +"vivario29">Vivario</a>, 8 m. N. from the House of Refuge, and +24 m. N. from Zicavo. Four m. N. from Ghisoni the +road crosses the <a name = "col_scozzolatojo" id = +"col_scozzolatojo">Col Scozzolatojo</a>, 3916 ft., and 2 m. farther +the <a name = "col_sorba" id = "col_sorba">Col Sorba</a>, 4310 ft., +6 m. S. from <b>Vivario</b>, see <a href = +"#vivario">p. 8</a>. The descent from the Col Sorba into Vivario is +very striking. It is effected by excessively sharp zigzags through a +noble pine forest. Between the branches tower the bold forms of Monte +d’Oro, Monte Rotondo, and, in the distance, behind the uplands of Corté, +the crags of Monte Traunato.</p> + +<p>The best resting-places on this road are Zicavo, 39 m. S.E. from +Ajaccio, from which it is approached by a diligence; and the pleasant +village of Ghisoni, where there is a very fair inn. At Vivario there is +the Hotel Voyageurs. Guides and carriages should be hired either at +Sartène or Vivario, 20 frs. per day.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "ghisoni_to_ghisonaccia" id = +"ghisoni_to_ghisonaccia"> +Ghisoni to Ghisonaccia.</a></h5> + +<h6>18 m. S.E. <a href = "#map2">Maps, pp. 1</a> and <a href = +"#map6">27</a>.</h6> + +<p class = "smaller"> +By the Forest road No. 5, cut for nearly 11 m. in the face of the +steep cliffs which enclose the Orbo. As this road in all the dangerous +parts is hardly 11 ft. wide, it is necessary to ascertain before +starting in a vehicle, the position of the carts conveying the logs, and +to arrange accordingly.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The road descends from Ghisoni to the Pont de Regolo, 2077 ft., where it +crosses the Casapietrone, and then follows the course of the Fium Orbo, +crosses the Ruello Bridge 1450 ft., and enters the Salto della Sposata +4½ m. from Ghisoni, where the river flows in a narrow bed between +vertical precipices, some more than 1200 ft. high.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "inzecca" id = "inzecca"> +<span class = "headnote">L’Inzecca.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The road, chiselled out of these cliffs, passes under 3 great portals. +From the third is seen, through the great cleft in the rock of Inzecca, +the sea at Aleria.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +After this the defile opens up to close again between serpentine cliffs. +It then crosses the 2 Ponts de Parabuja and the viaduct de l’Inzecca, +and reaches the entrance to the Passage de l’Inzecca, 7 m. from <a +href = "#ghisoni">Ghisoni</a>, 985 ft. above the sea, where the road is +cut through great serpentine rocks. This is the most difficult part for +the waggons to pass. <a href = "#map6">Map, p. 27</a>.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The plain now widens, and 8 m. from Ghisoni a branch road leads to +Vezzani.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Nine and a quarter miles from Ghisoni is the Col S. Antoine, +355 ft., and 8¾ m. farther is Ghisonaccia, <a href = +"#ghisonaccia">p. 32</a>.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">30</span> +<a name = "page30" id = "page30"> </a> +<!--png 050--> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "sartene_to_bonifacio" id = +"sartene_to_bonifacio"> +Sartène to Bonifacio.</a></h5> + +<h6>33 miles south-east, by diligence; time, 6 hours.</h6> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>SARTÈNE</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BONIFACIO</span> +<span class = "miles from"> </span> +<span class = "miles to">33</span> +SARTÈNE. The road winds its way through great blocks of granite +scattered on a plain studded with shrubby specimens of the ilex, towards +the shore of the Golfo di Roccapina, with a fantastically shaped rock +called il <a name = "leone" id = "leone">Leone Coronato</a>. East from +the gulf the road passes the village of Pianottoli, 21 m. from +Sartène, almost due south from the singular mountain l’Uomo di <a name = +"uomodicagna" id = "uomodicagna">Cagna</a>, 3980 ft.; then the bridge +across the Figari at the head of the Gulf of Figari, 23 m.; the Col +de la Testa or Scopeto, 225 ft., 24 m.; and the bridge across the +Ventilegni, 27 m. from Sartène, and 6 from Bonifacio.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "bonifacio" id = "bonifacio"> +<span class = "headnote">Bonifacio.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>SARTÈNE</span> +<span class = "miles from">33</span> +BONIFACIO pop. 4000. H. du Nord; France in the high town. +Diligences leave daily for Bastia, Sartène, and Ajaccio. A steamer +arrives every Saturday from Ajaccio and returns on the Monday. Bonifacio +was founded in 833 by the Tuscan marquis whose name it bears, to protect +this part of the island against the piratical incursions of the +Saracens. The high town is built on the top of a limestone rock rising +vertically from the sea. The low town occupies one side of the fine +natural dock, hemmed in by perpendicular cliffs with an opening of only +328 yards towards the sea. From the steamboat wharf a broad paved series +of steps leads up to the high town, entering it through the Porte +Vieille. In the old house fronting this Porte or gateway, <a name = +"bonifacio_charles" id = "bonifacio_charles">Charles V.</a>, in 1541, +stayed two days and a night on his return from his unsuccessful +expedition against Algiers. Overtaken by a storm, he had taken refuge in +the Gulf of Santa Manza. The door of the house, decorated with an +arabesque on marble, is in the narrow side street. In the Place d’Armes +are the church of San Domenico, built by the Templars, characterised by +its octagonal tower with an embrasured termination; and the great tower +“Torrione,†part of the fortifications built by the marquis, and +formerly the most important part of the citadel. Near this tower is the +flight of steps “Redragon,†cut in the rock by the Genoese, which +descends by 202 steps to the sea. The small room over the gateway of the +citadel, opposite the house of Charles V., was inhabited by <a name = +"bonifacio_napoleon" id = "bonifacio_napoleon">Napoleon</a> for nearly +eight months. There are grand sea-views from the ramparts. The town +consists of tall, dingy houses, and narrow, steep, and in most cases +dirty streets. The promenade of Bonifacio is the small covered terrace +before the church of Santa Maria. Here also is the public cistern.</p> + +<p>Of the numerous <a name = "bonifacio_caves" id = +"bonifacio_caves">caves</a> which pierce the base of the rock of +Bonifacio, the most remarkable one enters from the sea, 214 feet below +the +<span class = "pagenum">31</span> +<a name = "page31" id = "page31"> </a> +<!--png 051--> +Place d’Armes, and extends to an unknown distance. It contains a +freshwater lake, which rises and falls with the tide. A staircase with a +vaulted roof and consisting of 337 steps leads down to this lake. The +water is brought up to the surface by a force pump, is perfectly +transparent, with a slight calcareous taste. In the high town there are +39 private and one public cistern, in which the rain water from the +roofs is stored up. The low town has a well supplied from a stream by an +aqueduct. The afternoon is the best time to visit the caves. A boat for +one or party should not cost more than 5 frs. The finest, the +Dragonetta, cannot be visited when the sea is rough.</p> + +<p>On <a name = "mt_pertusato" id = "mt_pertusato">Monte Pertusato</a> +(the south extremity of Corsica), 2 miles S.E. from Bonifacio, is a +lighthouse of the first order, 325 feet above the sea. The southern +promontory is pierced by a cavern hung with stalactites.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "bonifacio_to_bastia" id = +"bonifacio_to_bastia"> +Bonifacio to Bastia.</a></h5> + +<h6>103 miles; diligence to Ghisonaccia, 50 m. N., the rest by +rail.</h6> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BONIFACIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from"> </span> +<span class = "miles to">103</span> +BONIFACIO. The diligence, after passing the Col Finocchio, 354 feet, +2½ miles N. from Bonifacio, the Maison Francola, 7 miles, the +bridge across the Stabiacco, 16 miles, and the Col Mattonara, 17½ miles +(whence the Route Forestière, No. 11, ascends 14 miles west into the +forest of the Ospedale), arrives in 3 hours at</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "portovecchio" id = "portovecchio"> +<span class = "headnote">Porto-Vecchio.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BONIFACIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">27</span> +<span class = "miles to">76</span> +PORTO-VECCHIO, pop. 2740. Hôtel Amis. Surrounded by its old walls, and +at the head of a beautiful gulf. The surrounding country is fertile, but +unhealthy during the hot weather, on account of the miasma rising from +the morasses and lagoons. To the N. of Porto, the mountains still +approach near to the sea; but beyond Solenzara (where the diligence +halts) 41½ miles from Bonifacio, they recede and leave free those great +undulating plains which characterise the eastern coast of +Corsica—plains almost uninhabited and covered with heaths. From +the north side of the Travo commences a <a name = "coastlakes31" id = +"coastlakes31">series of large lakes</a> swarming with fish and a kind +of cockle. They are separated from the sea by long narrow sandbanks, +like earthen break-waters. The malaria prevails from June to October, +but even then only the night should be avoided in travelling along this +coast. The road after passing by the hamlet of Favona, 33 m., +arrives at</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "solenzara" id = "solenzara"> +<span class = "headnote">Solenzara.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BONIFACIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">45</span> +<span class = "miles to">58</span> +SOLENZARA. +<span class = "smaller">Whence a wheel road extends westwards into the +forest of Bavella by the <a name = "col_bavella31" id = +"col_bavella31">Col Bavella</a> 18½ m. S.W., and the Col Scalella, +22 m., 2982 ft. to <a name = "zonza31" id = "zonza31">Zonza</a>, +24½ m. from Solenzara; 4 m. farther is the village of +S. Gavino di Carbini, 2292 ft., and <ins class = "correction" title += "error for ‘another’?">other</ins> 2½ m. +<span class = "pagenum">32</span> +<a name = "page32" id = "page32"> </a> +<!--png 052--> +the village of <a name = "levie32" id = "levie32">Levie</a>; 30 m. +S.W. from Solenzara, and 10½ from Propriano is <a name = "st_lucia32" id += "st_lucia32">S. <ins class = "correction" +title = "text reads ‘Lucie’">Lucia</ins> de Tallano</a>, +on the highroad to Aullene (see <a +href = "#st_lucia27">p. 27</a>), and for continuation of this road +to Propriano see <a href = +"#propriano_to_solenzara">p. 26</a>.</span> </p> + +<p>The road to Bastia, after passing the Travo, 44 m., Vicchiseri, +46 m., and Casamozza, 48½ m., arrives at the railway +station of</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "ghisonaccia" id = "ghisonaccia"> +<span class = "headnote">Ghisonaccia.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BONIFACIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">53</span> +<span class = "miles to">50</span> +GHISONACCIA pop. 850. On the Fium Orbo, 36 m. S.E. from Corté. +<span class = "smaller">From this a department road of 4½ m. leads +to the <a name = "pietrapola32" id = "pietrapola32">hot sulphurous baths +of Pietrapola</a>, with a large hotel in a healthy situation.</span> +</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +From Ghisonaccia a carriage road extends N.W. to the villages of <a name += "poggiodinazza" id = "poggiodinazza">Poggio-di-Nazza</a>, 9½ m., +and <a name = "lugodinazza" id = "lugodinazza">Lugo-di-Nazza</a>, +11½ m. From Ghisonaccia railway station a forest road extends +18 m. N.W. to Ghisoni, where it joins the high road between Sartène +and Vivario (<a href = "#vivario29">p. 29</a>). The southern +prolongation of this road leads to Zicavo, Petreto, Bicchisano, and <a +name = "portopollo" id = "portopollo">Portopollo</a>, on the Gulf of +Valinco.</p> + +<p>Forty-six m. from Bastia is Casabianda. H. Perett; a +village situated on a well-cultivated estate belonging to the +government; formerly used as an agricultural penitentiary for juvenile +criminals. In the hot season it is safer to pass the night at Casabianda +than at Aleria.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "aleria" id = "aleria"> +<span class = "headnote">Aleria.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BONIFACIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">58¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">44¾</span> +ALERIA. Inn. The capital of Corsica till the invasion of the Saracens in +the 4th cent., now a poor village with an old Genoese fort, situated at +the mouth of the Tavignano, 1¼ m. from the Etang de Diane. Ancient +Aleria, the colony founded by the dictator Sulla about 82 <span class = +"smallroman">B.C.</span>, occupied both banks of the Tavignano, which +waters one of the finest plains in the world, where winter is unknown. +The site of the town was well selected. The population was probably +20,000.</p> + +<p>It was at Aleria that <a name = "theodore" id = "theodore">Theodore +Neuhoff</a>, a native of Altona, in Germany, landed to have himself +proclaimed King of Corsica, March 1736. He died a pauper in London, and +was buried in an obscure corner of St. Anne’s churchyard, Soho. On a +mural tablet against the exterior wall, west end, is the following +epitaph written by Horace Walpole:—“Near this place is interred +Theodore, King of Corsica, who died in this parish, Dec. 11, 1756, +immediately after leaving the King’s Bench prison, by the benefit of the +Act of Insolvency. In consequence of which, he registered his kingdom of +Corsica for the use of his creditors.†His capital was <a href = +"#cervione33">Cervione</a>. The <a name = "lake_diana" id = +"lake_diana">lake de Diane</a> is a great sheet of salt water with one +narrow opening to the sea. It formed the harbour of Aleria, and was +provided with quays, of which a vestige still remains. The lake contains +an island 460 yards in circumference, composed of oyster shells covered +with luxurious vegetation. Fish, and a cockle a species of Venerupis, +inhabit the brackish water of the lake.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">33</span> +<a name = "page33" id = "page33"> </a> +<!--png 053--> + +<h5 class = "smallcaps"><a name = "aleria_to_corte" id = +"aleria_to_corte"> +Aleria to Corté.</a></h5> + +<h6>Coach every other day; fare, 5 francs; time, 4 hours.</h6> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Thirty-one and a half m. N.W., by a picturesque road up the course +of the Tavignano, passing Cateraggio, 2 m., Rotani, 5 m., +commencement of bridle path leading N. to Tallone, 7½ m., Tox, +9½ m., Campo, 11 m., and Moïta, 12½ m. Seven m. +farther up the main road a ramification extends N. to Giuncaggio, +4½ m., and to <a name = "pancheraccia" id = +"pancheraccia">Pancheraccia</a>, 5½ m.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Up the main road, 21½ m. from Aleria, and near the bridge across +the Vecchio, a bridle path strikes off S. to Rospigliani, 5 m., and +Vezzani, 6½ m. A little higher a ramification extends +5 m. W. to <a name = "serraggio33" id = +"serraggio33">Serraggio</a> (<a href = "#serraggio8">p. 8</a>). The +road, after passing several other ramifications with the Corté and +Ajaccio road, arrives at Corté, <a href = "#corte">p. 8</a>.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<a name = "puzzichello" id = "aleria_to_puzzichello">Ten m. W. from +Aleria</a> are the cold saline sulphurous springs of, 190 ft., considered +efficacious in the cure of syphilitic diseases, resembling in this +property the water of Aulus in the Pyrenees. See Black’s <i>South +France</i>, West Half (Pyrenees).</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "prunete" id = "prunete"> +<span class = +"headnote">Prunete.—Cervione.—Alesani.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BONIFACIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">79</span> +<span class = "miles to">24</span> +PRUNETE. <i>Inn:</i> Gaetan. Junction with road to Ponte alla Leccia, +44 m. N.W. (<a href = "#leccia9">p. 9</a>), leading through a +region of chestnut trees and past many villages on the mountains, built +chiefly on terraces. A coach runs from the station to Alesani +called also Castagneto 1938 ft. 14 m. W.; +<span class = "smaller">ascending by <a name = "muchieto33" id = +"muchieto33">Muchieto</a> 808 ft. 3¾ m., <a name = "cervione33" id += "cervione33">Cervione</a> 1073 ft. 4½ m., pop. 1000; <i>Inns:</i> +France: Voyageurs: an untidy village, once the capital of King +Theodore’s realm. From Cervione the road describes a long detour to the +bridge across the Chebbia, whence it ascends to <a name = "cotone33" id += "cotone33">Cotone</a> 1008 ft 6¼ m., the Col d’Aja 1236 ft., and +<a name = "ortale33" id = "ortale33">Ortale</a> 1489 ft., 1¾ m. +from Alesani. Good red wine is made in the neighbourhood of Cervione. <a +name = "alesani" id = "alesani">The dirty little village of Castagneto +or Alesani</a> is picturesquely situated on the side of a mountain +overlooking a valley covered with chestnut trees. The diligence stops at +an inn, where bread, eggs and coffee with goats’ milk can be had and a +comfortable bed. A char-a-banc from this inn to Piedicroce (Orezza) +costs 10 frs., time 2½ hours, 11 miles. For Orezza, see <a href = +"#orezza">p. 34</a>. Passengers from Prunete to Piedicroce or +Stazzona should not stop at Cervione but continue the diligence route to +Castagneto, whence start next morning. The drive between Castagneto and +Piedicroce, 11 miles, is by far the most beautiful part of the road. <a +name = "col_arcarotta33" id = "col_arcarotta33">The highest part of the +Col d’Arcarotta</a> is a narrow ridge between the valleys of Orezza and +Ortia, commanding a charming view. See also <a href = +"#col_arcarotta35">p. 35</a>.</span> </p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BONIFACIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">87¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">24¾</span> +<a name = "padulella" id = "padulella">PADULELLA</a>. Four and a quarter +miles west by a good road is <a name = "st_nicolao" id = +"st_nicolao">San Nicolao</a>, pop. 600.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "stazzona" id = "stazzona"> +<span class = "headnote">Stazzona.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BONIFACIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">84¼</span> +<span class = "miles to">18¾</span> +<a name = "folelli" id = "folelli">FOLELLI-Orezza station.</a> +<span class = "smaller">Junction with road to Piedicroce 14¼ m. +S.W.; by the course of the Fium’alto, the Chestnut country, and the +village of Stazzona, 13¼ m. from Folelli, ¼ m. from +<span class = "pagenum">34</span> +<a name = "page34" id = "page34"> </a> +<!--png 054--> +and 355 ft. under <a name = "piedicroce34" id = +"piedicroce34">Piedicroce</a>, and 1 m. from and 200 ft. above the +spring of Orezza. The coach from the station stops at Stazzona, pop. +250. <i>Hotels</i>: *Paix, Casino. Very fine oleanders in the gardens. +On the opposite side of the valley of the Fium’alto is Granajola, with +the establishment Manfredi, 2016 ft. above the sea and 220 feet above +the spring. The hotel Manfredi has the most select society, is the +largest house, and its road from the spring is the least dusty; but as +no public coach goes there it is necessary to hire a private conveyance +either at Stazzona or Piedicroce, 3 or 4 miles. The charge in all +the hotels is 7 frs. per day, not including coffee or tea in the +morning. The hotels of Stazzona and the hotel Manfredi are the most +convenient for the Spa drinkers; those of Piedicroce are too +distant.</span> </p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "orezza" id = "orezza"> +<span class = "headnote">Orezza.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The Orezza spring is in the centre of a small terrace in the narrow +valley of the Fium’alto, whose steep banks are covered with chestnut +trees, and ascended by dusty winding roads. The water is a bicarbonate +chalybeate, with an agreeable amount of free carbonic acid gas.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "vescovato" id = "vescovato"> +<span class = "headnote">Vescovato.</span></a></p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BONIFACIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">89</span> +<span class = "miles to">14</span> +VESCOVATO STATION. Town 1¼ m. W., pop. 1500. +<span class = "smaller">*H. de Progreso in the large “Place†where +all the coaches stop, near a fountain of pure gushing water, cold even +in summer. The rather untidy town of Vescovato is almost hidden in the +corner of a valley, 550 ft. above the sea, by woods of vigorous olive +and chestnut trees. From it a <a name = "vescovato_to_porta" id = +"vescovato_to_porta">coach starts daily to Porta</a>, +15 m. W., by a bad, dusty, jolting road, passing through <a +name = "venzolasca" id = "venzolasca">Venzolasca</a>, pop. 1300, on the +top of a hill, 732 ft., 1½ m. from Vescovato. Three m. farther +a road, left, 1 m., leads to <a name = "porri" id = +"porri">Porri</a>, 1718 ft., pop. 300. 7½ m. from Vescovato is the +Col S. Agostino, and then follow, 8 m., <a name = +"silvareccio" id = "silvareccio">Silvareccio</a>, 2198 ft., pop. 550; +8½ m., <a name = "piano" id = "piano">Piano</a>, 2230 ft., pop. +170; <a name = "casabianca" id = "casabianca">Casabianca</a>, 4 m. +farther, 2133 ft.; and then <a name = "porta" id = "porta">Porta</a>, +pop. 630; <i>Inn:</i> H. Franceschi, in the “Place,†opposite the +church, where the coach stops. In July and August the coach goes on to +Piedicroce.</span> </p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BONIFACIO</span> +<span class = "sidenote to"><br>BASTIA</span> +<span class = "miles from">91</span> +<span class = "miles to">12</span> +<a name = "golo" id = "golo">PONT DU GOLO</a>. A little more than +3 miles from the bridge, at the mouth of the river, stood the town +of <a name = "mariana" id = "mariana">Mariana</a>, founded by Marius +(<span class = "smallroman">B.</span> 155, <span class = +"smallroman">D.</span> 86 <span class = "smallroman">B.C.</span>), where +Seneca most probably spent his exile, and of which there remain only a +few insignificant fragments on the beach. In the vicinity are the ruins +of a chapel, and about a mile farther those of the church, called La +Canonica, with 2 aisles and a nave 100 feet long and 40 wide, ornamented +with rows of pillars of the Doric order. Both church and chapel are in +the Pisan style.</p> + +<p><a name = "casamozza" id = "casamozza">At Casamozza Station</a>, +12½ m. S. from <a name = "bastia_to_aleria" id = +"bastia_to_aleria">Bastia, the Aleria</a> railway joins the one from +Corté.</p> + +<p> +<span class = "sidenote from"><br>BONIFACIO</span> +<span class = "miles from">103</span> +BASTIA. See <a href = "#bastia">p. 10</a>.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "leccia_to_piedicroce" id = +"leccia_to_piedicroce"> +Ponte alla Leccia to Piedicroce.</a></h5> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Eighteen miles S.E. by “Courrier†daily. Fare 3 frs. Time 5 hours, +by a mountain road, making immense circuits round by the +<span class = "pagenum">35</span> +<a name = "page35" id = "page35"> </a> +<!--png 055--> +heads of ravines among rich pastures and great chestnut and beech +trees.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Nine miles from the Ponte is <a name = "morosaglia" id = +"morosaglia"><b>Morosaglia</b></a>, pop. 1060, with an inn, where the +coach stops. A conglomeration of hamlets on the slopes of a mountain, +one of which, <a name = "stretta" id = "stretta">Stretta</a>, was the +birthplace of Pascal Paoli. 2 m. farther is the summit of the <a +name = "col_prato" id = "col_prato">Col de Prato</a> with an inn, 3215 +ft., 2850 ft. below, or 3 hours from the top of San Pietro, commanding a +magnificent view of the Castagniccia or the Chestnut country, and the +islands of Monte Christo, Pianosa, and Elba, floating in the haze +between sky and water. See <a href = "#map1">map on fly-leaf</a>.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "castagniccia" id = "castagniccia"> +<span class = "headnote">Castagniccia.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The <b>Castagniccia</b> may be said to lie between the Golo and the +Tavignano, bounded on the W. by the railway. The chestnut trees are not +so famous for their size as for the qualify of their fruit.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The coach having passed the hamlet of Campana arrives at</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "piedicroce" id = "piedicroce"> +<span class = "headnote">Piedicroce.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +<b>Piedicroce</b>, pop. 600, several inns, 2104 ft., 18 m. from +Ponte alla Leccia, and 650 ft. above the spring of Orezza by a winding, +dusty, bad wheel road, passing Stazzona 1978 ft. above the sea.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Although Piedicroce is not a suitable place for those who come to drink +the Orezza water, it is an excellent centre for excursions, the +favourite one being to the top of <a name = "mt_st_pietro" id = +"mt_st_pietro"><b>Monte S. Pietro</b></a> 5795 ft. in 3 hours, by +the cabins of Tajalto 4600 ft., and a beech forest. Mule to nearly +the top. Guide and mule, 5 frs. See also above.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Coach in July and August to the Vescovato station by Porta, <a href = +"#vescovato_to_porta">p. 34</a>.</p> + + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "piedicroce_to_prunete" id = +"piedicroce_to_prunete">Piedicroce to Prunete <span class = +"plaintext">Station, 26 m. S.E.</span></a></h5> + +<h6>The continuation of the road from Ponte alla Leccia.</h6> + +<p class = "smaller"> +From Piedicroce the road passes by Pied’Orezza, 2106 ft., 1¾ m. +from Piedicroce, Piedipartino, 2124 ft., 2 m.; Carcheto, +2172 ft., 3m.; <a name = "brustico" id = "brustico">Brustico</a>, +2293 ft. 4 m.; the <a name = "col_arcarotta35" id = +"col_arcarotta35">Col d’Arcarotta</a>, 2698 ft., 5¼ m. from +Piedicroce, between the richly wooded valleys of the Fium’alto and the +Alesani, and commanding a very fine view of both. From this the road +gradually descends to <a name = "prunete35" id = +"prunete35">Prunete</a>, the most beautiful part being from this Col to +Castagneto called also Alesani, where there is an inn and whence a coach +starts daily to Prunete Railway Station.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "alesani35" id = "alesani35"> +<span class = "headnote">Castagneto.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Seven miles from Piedicroce and 2 from the Col is Ortia, +2638 ft., +pop. 400, hidden among <ins class = "correction" title = +"text reads ‘chesnut’">chestnut</ins> trees; <a name = "felce" id = +"felce">Felce</a>, 2570 ft., 8¾ m., pop. 400; Pied Alesani +11 m.; Querceto, 2041 ft., and <b>Castagneto</b> or Alesani, +1938 ft., 12 m. from Piedicroce and 14 from Prunete Railway +Station, the principal village in this valley.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +A little below Castagneto, at the commencement of this chestnut wooded +valley is <a name = "ortale35" id = "ortale35">Ortale</a>, +1489 ft., pop. 280. The coach then having passed <a name = +"cotone35" id = "cotone35">Cotone</a> 1008 ft., 19¼ m., pop. 800, +and having crossed the little bridge over the stream Chebbia arrives at +<a name = "cervione" id = "cervione">Cervione</a>, <i>Inn</i>, France: +1073 ft., 21¾ m. from Piedicroce, and 4¼ from Prunete. From +Cervione another coach descends to Prunete Railway Station by <a name = +"muchieto35" id = "muchieto35">Muchieto</a> 820 ft. Prunete consists of +a few houses near the beach, resorted to by bathers in summer, situated +on the highway between Bastia and Bonifacio. See also <a href = +"#prunete">p. 33</a>.</p> + + +<span class = "pagenum">36</span> +<a name = "page36" id = "page36"> </a> +<!--png 056--> + +<h5 class = "itinerary"><a name = "solenzara_to_sartene" id = +"solenzara_to_sartene">Solenzara to Sartène,</a></h5> + +<p class = "smaller"> +46 m. S.W. This forest road, No. 4, ascends the valley of the +Solenzara, crosses the great S.E. range at the <a name = "col_bavella36" +id = "col_bavella36">Col de Bavella</a>, descends into the valley of the +Rizzanese, passes through the villages of Zonza, San Gavino, Levie, and +Ste. Lucie, and joins the highroad between Ajaccio and Bonifacio at the +miles tone 76·690 (47¾ m.) from Ajaccio, 3¾ m. from Sartène, +and 42 m. from Solenzara.</p> + +<p>The road, after passing up by the S. side of the river through olive +groves and “maquis,†arrives at the Col and <a name = +"maison_castelluccio" id = "maison_castelluccio">Maison de Cantonniers +de Castelluccio</a>, 210 ft., 4 m. from Solenzara. Two m. +farther by the Pont de Ghiadole, the road crosses the Solenzara by the +Calzatojo bridge, 6 m. from <a href = "#solenzara">Solenzara</a>, +340 ft., winds upward by the deep gully of the Fiumicello, which having +crossed by the bridge 7¼ m. from Solenzara, ascends a steep winding +road bordered with great trees to the <a name = "maison_rocchiopinzuto" +id = "maison_rocchiopinzuto">Maison de Cantonniers de +Rocchio-Pinzuto</a>, 8¾ m., 1060 ft., at the foot of the great +cliff of that name.</p> + +<p>The road still winding upwards passes the immense wall of reddish +cliffs called the Rochers de Bavella before arriving at the <a name = +"col_larone36" id = "col_larone36">Col de Larone</a>10¾ m., 2056 +ft. The road, still winding, ascends a huge promontory between the +torrents Fiumicello and S. Pietro, separating into two distinct +parts the forest of Bavella, and crosses the Pont de Bocintoro, 1510 +ft., 12 m. A little farther, in a wild yet beautiful situation, is +the <a name = "maison_arghiavara" id = "maison_arghiavara">Maison de +Cantonniers d’Arghiavara</a>. From the Pont 1½ m. is the better +house, la <a name = "maison_alza" id = "maison_alza">maison forestière +de l’Alza</a>, commanding superb views, situated among great trees and +nursery gardens.</p> + +<p>The ascent from this is by a steep road, almost impracticable for +vehicles, through a forest of the stateliest and oldest pines in +Corsica.</p> + +<p>18 m. from Solenzara and 28 from Sartène is the <a name = +"maison_bavella" id = "maison_bavella">Maison de Cantonniers de +Bavella</a>, 3885 ft., near the summit of the Col Bavella, 4068 ft. In +this house of refuge there is generally comfortable accommodation and a +supply of provisions. The surrounding huts are occupied in July and +August by people from the plains about Solenzara, who come here to +escape the fever-producing malaria. The house commands, even from the +windows, grand views.</p> + +<p>On the other side of the Col, 550 ft. below it and 2¼ m. from +it, is the <a name = "maison_ballatojo" id = "maison_ballatojo">Maison +de Cantonniers de Ballatojo</a>, from which the road descends amidst +great pines mixed with a few oaks and ilexes, in view of the Asinao +forest and of the lofty granite pinnacled precipices, 10 m. long, +between Mt. Colva, 4520 ft., and the Point Tintinaja, 6658 ft.</p> + +<p><a name = "zonza36" id = "zonza36">Zonza</a>, good inn, pop. 1040, +height 2582 ft., 24¼ m. from Solenzara and 21¾ m. from +Sartène, hidden among chestnut trees and conveniently situated for +visiting the forests of Zonza, Asinao, and Bavella.</p> + +<span class = "pagenum">37</span> +<a name = "page37" id = "page37"> </a> +<!--png 057--> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "st_gavino" id = "st_gavino"> +<span class = "headnote">S. Gavino.</span></a></p> + +<p>3½ m. beyond is San Gavino di <a name = "carbini" id = +"carbini">Carbini</a>, pop. 770, height 2238 ft., a poor miserable +village, where there existed in 1365 a sect of socialists, with whom +even the women and children were held in common, and by whom were +committed frightful abominations.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "levie" id = "levie"> +<span class = "headnote">Levie.</span></a></p> + +<p>30 m. from Solenzara and 16 m. from Sartène is Levie, +consisting of various hamlets. Inn where the coach, running between this +and Sartène, stops. Pop, 2040, height 2238 ft This village, easily +approached, is situated among mountains abounding with game. It commands +superb views, and makes in April a very pleasant residence. In winter it +is rather cold. On the road between Levie and Santa Lucia di Tallano, 5 +½ m. from the Col d’Aja Vignarsa, 2408 ft., are seen the valley of +the Rizzanese and the Gulfs of Valinco and Ajaccio. On the grassy table +lands of the Col d’Aja are many rare flowers, among others a species of +red gladiolus.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "st_lucia37" id = "st_lucia37"> +<span class = "headnote">S. Lucia di Tallano.</span></a></p> + +<p>5½ m. W. from Levie and 11¼ from Sartène is Santa Lucia di <a name = +"tallano" id = "tallano">Tallano</a>, pop. 1300, Inn where the Sartène +and Levie coach stops. S. Lucia is built in terraces on the hills +rising from the Fiumicicoli. Church 14th cent. The wines grown in this +neighbourhood command good prices in the Corsican market.</p> + +<p>Below, on the Fiumicicoli, is a hot sulphurous spring. On the way +down to the river by the sides of the Point Campolaccia, near a place +called Campolajo, is <a name = "campolajo" id = "campolajo">beautiful +hornblende</a>, <a href = "#amphibole">page 27</a>.</p> + +<p>From Santa Lucia the road leads southwards by the Rizzanese to +Sartène, <a href = "#sartene">p. 27</a>.</p> + +</div> +<!--end div = itinerary--> + +<hr class = "mid"> + +<h4 class = "section sans"><a name = "history" id = "history"> +SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF CORSICA.</a></h4> + +<p>It is not known who the original inhabitants of Corsica were. The +Phocæans of Ionia were the first civilised people that established +settlements in Corsica. About the year 560 <span class = +"smallroman">B.C.</span> they landed on the island, and founded at the +mouth of the Tavignano the city of Aleria, which after a short +occupation they were compelled to abandon. After an interval of a few +years they again returned, rebuilt Aleria, which they fortified, and +endeavoured to maintain their ground against the natives. After a +struggle of some years they were again compelled to leave the island. +The next foreign occupants of Corsica were the Tuscans, who founded the +city of Nicæa, but they in their turn were compelled to give way before +the growing maritime power of the Carthaginians, whose jurisdiction in +the island was unquestioned till the beginning of the first Punic War. +On that occasion the Romans sent out a fleet, drove the Carthaginians +from the island, and exacted +<span class = "pagenum">38</span> +<a name = "page38" id = "page38"> </a> +<!--png 058--> +at least a nominal homage from the native population. They did not, +however, fully establish their power here till about thirty years later, +and even then rebellions and revolts were of constant occurrence.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"> +<span class = "headnote">Roman Colonies.</span></p> + +<p>The first step made towards the real subjugation of the island was +the establishment of the two colonies on its eastern coast-that of +Aleria by Sulla and that of Mariana by Marius. In the time of the +emperors the island had fallen into disrepute among the Romans, by whom +it was used chiefly as a place of banishment for political offenders. +One of the most distinguished of these sufferers was the younger Seneca, +who spent in this island eight years of banishment ending with 49 <span +class = "smallroman">A.D.</span></p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "corsica_arms" id = "corsica_arms"> +<span class = "headnote">Arms.</span></a></p> +<p>On the downfall of the Roman empire in the West, Corsica passed into +the hands of the Vandals. These barbarians were driven out by +Belisarius, but after his death, 565 <span class = +"smallroman">A.D.</span>, the resistless hordes of Attila once more +gained possession of the island. Since that period it has successively +owned the dominion of the Goths, the Saracens, the Pisans and the +Genoese. The impress of the last is to be found in the style of the +church architecture, while the armorial crest of the island, a <a +name = "moors_head" id = "moors_head"><b>Moor’s head</b></a>, with a +band across the brow, dates from the expedition of the Saracen king, +Sanza Ancisa.</p> + +<p>The <a name = "corsica_patroness" id = "corsica_patroness">patroness +of Corsica</a>, the “Protectrice de la Corse,†is Santa <a name = +"st_devota" id = "st_devota">Devota</a>; who is also the patron saint of +Monaco. The Corsicans often style the Virgin Mary simply La Santa; and +in their common exclamation Santa! Maria is understood.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "sampiero38" id = "sampiero38"> +<span class = "headnote">Sampiero.</span></a></p> + +<p>Among the most renowned and intrepid patriots in the struggle of the +Corsicans to free themselves from the Genoese was Sampiero, born of poor +parents towards the end of the 15th cent, in Dominicacci, one of the +hamlets which compose Bastelica. His house having been burned down by +the Genoese, the inhabitants in the 18th cent. constructed a new one on +the same site, on which Mr. Wyse, an Irishman, affixed a tablet with an +inscription in 1855, expressing his admiration of the man. After serving +with great distinction in the armies of the Italian princes and in those +of Francis I., King of France, Sampiero returned to Corsica in 1547 and +married the fair <a name = "vanina38" id = "vanina38">Vanina</a>, +heiress of Ornano, belonging to one of the oldest families in the +island.</p> + +<p>Shortly after the marriage the Corsicans, led by Sampiero, revolted +against the tyranny of the Banking Company of St. George of Genoa, and, +assisted by the French, under General Thermes, overthrew them after six +years of hard fighting and much bloodshed, in which Sampiero and his +peasant army bore by far the greatest share. All, however, they had +gained at such immense sacrifice was completely lost to them by the +treaty of Chateau Cambresis, 1559, by which France agreed +<span class = "pagenum">39</span> +<a name = "page39" id = "page39"> </a> +<!--png 059--> +to restore Corsica to Genoa. Sampiero and his family had to leave the +island. Such was the virulent and implacable hatred Sampiero bore to the +Genoese, that he with his own hand, in cold blood, strangled mercilessly +his trembling wife three years after (1562) in Marseilles, for having +allowed herself, in his absence, to be persuaded to make an arrangement +with the Genoese to save the patrimony of her children. Sampiero escaped +with impunity, although he buried his murdered wife publicly, and with +pomp, in the church of St. Francis at Marseilles.</p> + +<p>Antonio Francesco, the younger son, who was, when a mere child, with +his mother when she was murdered, was afterwards assassinated at Rome by +a Frenchman, whom he had insulted while playing at cards.</p> + +<p>On the 12th June 1564 Sampiero landed at the Gulf of Valinco with a +band of 20 Corsicans and 25 Frenchmen, to make another desperate attempt +to free Corsica from the hated yoke. After a five years’ life-and-death +struggle, fired by a feverish thirst for revenge, the Corsicans had to +yield to the might of Genoa, supported by well-drilled Italian, German +and Spanish mercenaries, commanded by their greatest generals, Doria, +Centurione and Spinola, and aided by a powerful fleet.</p> + +<p>On the 17th January 1567 Sampiero was slain in an ambuscade laid for +him in the defile of Cauro, into which he had been led by forged letters +brought him by the monk Ambrosius of Bastelica.</p> + +<p>His elder son Alfonso d’Ornano continued the struggle after his +father’s death, till the exhausted state of Corsica compelled him to +desist and to accept a general amnesty proclaimed by the Genoese +governor George Doria in 1569. Alfonso d’Ornano was afterwards created +“Maréchal de France.â€</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "paoli" id = "paoli"> +<span class = "headnote">Pascal Paoli.</span></a></p> + +<p>From 1755 the <ins class = "correction" title = +"text reads ‘Corscians’">Corsicans</ins>, led by the brave Pascal Paoli, +carried on the struggle for their independence against the Genoese, who +were occasionally assisted by the French. On the 15th May 1768 the +former sold their presumed claims to the island to the French, who ended +this war of subjugation by the terrible battle of <a name = +"pontenovo39" id = "pontenovo39">Ponte Nuovo</a>, 9th May 1769. On the +llth of June Paoli left Porto-Vecchio for London; where, at the instance +of the Duke of Grafton, then prime minister of England, he received an +annual pension of £1200.</p> + +<p>After Corsica had been made one of the departments of France he was +invited in 1790, by the National Assembly, to take the supreme command +in the island. On his arrival at Paris (3d April 1790), on his way +to Corsica, he was fêted as the Washington of Europe, and Lafayette was +constantly by his side; while, on his arrival at Marseilles, he was +received by a deputation, among whom was Napoleon. In July 1790 he +landed at <a name = "macinaggio39" id = "macinaggio39">Macinaggio</a>, +on the east side of Cap Corse.</p> + +<p><span class = "pagenum">40</span> +<a name = "page40" id = "page40"> </a> +<!--png 060--> +The execution of the king and the cruelties and excesses of the +Convention having shocked the philanthropic spirit of Paoli and +alienated his sympathies, he organised a revolt to separate Corsica from +France, and succeeded by the aid of the English fleet, 20th July 1794, +when Calvi, the last of the forts, surrendered. On the 10th of June 1794 +the Corsicans declared that they would unite their country to Great +Britain, but that it was to remain independent, and to be governed by a +viceroy according to their own constitution.</p> + +<p>The English, from ignorance, managed the affairs of the island so +badly, that when in 1796 Napoleon sent troops against them, they were +joined by the Corsicans, who together forced the English to leave the +island. Not only had a certain Gilbert Elliot been named viceroy instead +of Paoli, but this same man having written to the Government that it was +necessary for the safety of the English to remove Paoli from the island, +George III. wrote Paoli a letter inviting him to return to England and +to his court. It is suspected that Andrea Pozzo di Borgo, president of +the Council of State, under the short viceroyship of Elliot, influenced, +for his own ends or from jealousy, the English in Corsica against +Paoli.</p> + +<p>Paoli lived twelve years more in London, died peacefully on 5th +February 1807 at the age of 82, was buried in St. Pancras churchyard, +and a small monument to his memory was placed in Westminster Abbey. He +bequeathed to four professors of the intended Corté University salaries +of £50 a year each, but as it was never established the money was given +to the Ecole Paoli in Corté, attended by 120 pupils.</p> + +<p>Since the expulsion of the English, the French have remained in +undisturbed possession of Corsica. The English occupation lasted from +1794 to 1796.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "corsica_character" id = +"corsica_character"> +<span class = "headnote">Character.</span></a></p> + +<p>The Corsicans look to the Government for the improvement of their +island far more than to their own efforts, for they themselves are +neither industrious nor enterprising. The roads, railways, bridges and +other public works are constructed chiefly by Italian labourers. The +women do the drudgery both in their homes and on the fields, carrying +great loads on their heads, as the mules do on their backs; but bestow +little labour on the cleanliness of their children and dwellings, and do +not make good domestic servants. In many small towns women are the bread +bakers and assistant butchers. The villages, excepting in Cape Corse, +are untidy. The use of the bath is almost unknown to young and old, rich +and poor.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "vendetta" id = "vendetta"> +<span class = "headnote">Vendetta.</span></a></p> + +<p>The tendency to take summary vengeance, called vendetta, still +<span class = "pagenum">41</span> +<a name = "page41" id = "page41"> </a> +<!--png 061--> +exists in the villages; where the people having no social amusements, +nothing to read, nor any other resource than cards during the winter +nights, are apt to quarrel over trifles; which, fanned by their local +petty jealousies, assisted often by the generous nature of their wine, +ripen into deadly feuds.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"> +<span class = "headnote">Oaks.</span></p> + +<p>The staple food of the majority of the inhabitants, as well as of the +horses and mules, during a great part of the year, is the <a name = +"chestnut41" id = "chestnut41">chestnut</a>. For domestic purposes it is +mostly ground, when it costs only about half the price of wheat flour, +which is procured chiefly from Marseilles, Corsica itself producing very +little. The ease with which the harvest of chestnuts is annually +obtained tends to foster indolence and deaden enterprise among the +peasantry. The one great danger to which the generous chestnut trees are +exposed is a conflagration. Besides olives, pines, beeches and +chestnuts, there are also important forests of <a name = "evergreen" id += "evergreen">evergreen oaks</a>, the <a name = "quercus" id = +"quercus"><ins class = "correction" title = +"error for ‘Quercus ilex’">Quercus Ilex</ins></a>, called also the holm +oak. It has abundance of dark-green ovate leaves, mostly prickly at the +margin; the acorns are oblong on short stalks; the stem grows to the +height of 80 ft.; the wood is dark-brown and hard, weighing 70 lbs. the +cubic foot, while the same of the Quercus ruber or British oak weighs +only 55 lbs., and the tree attains a vast age. The cork oak, Quercus +suber, grows either singly among other trees or in groups, principally +in the southern parts of the island. The bark is of little commercial +importance.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "agriculture" id = "agriculture"> +<span class = "headnote"> +Agriculture.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The inhabitants do not assist nature. Their seed potatoes are of an +inferior class, their fruit trees receive little attention, very few of +the vineyards are carefully cultivated, and their sheep, goats and pigs +are of poor breeds. Of late years many have taken to the growing of +lemons and citrons; which in a good year yield a very handsome profit; +but the harvest, through untimely frosts, is precarious. The +headquarters of this culture is Cape Corse. The olive trees yield a more +secure though less remunerative harvest. That terrible scourge the +phylloxera has got among the vineyards, where it is committing its usual +havoc.</p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +The drives and pedestrian excursions about Corsica are superb, +especially along the east side and up the centre by Sartène, Zicavo and +Ghisoni (<a href = "#sartene">p. 27</a>), and the road between +Calvi and Ponte alla Leccia (<a href = +"#leccia_to_calvi">p. 20</a>). There are inns in all the large +villages, though the only good and comfortable hotels are in +Ajaccio.</p> + +<p class = "headnote"><a name = "maison" id = "maison"> +<span class = "headnote"> +Foresthouses.</span></a></p> + +<p class = "smaller"> +Enterprising tourists wishing to explore the great forests and to scale +the mountains should endeavour to procure letters of introduction from +the chief forestal authorities at Ajaccio, Corté, Bastia or Calvi to the +occupants of the Maisons Forestières in the forests to be visited. +Although the gardes forestières are generally hospitable, they are +afraid to follow their inclination without orders from their superiors. +For each day in these houses 7 to 8 frs. should be given.</p> + + + + +<!--png 062--> +<h4 class = "chapter"><a name = "index" id = "index">INDEX.</a></h4> + +<p class = "mynote"> +Index links lead directly to the named entry, not to the top of the +page.</p> + +<table class = "index" summary = "index"> + +<tr> +<td width = "50%"> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Agriculture</span> +<a href = "#agriculture">41</a></p> + +<p>Aïtone forest <a href = "#aitone18">18</a>, <a href = +"#aitone23">23</a></p> + +<p><b>Ajaccio</b> <a href = "#ajaccio">3</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Bankers +<a href = "#ajaccio_bankers">3</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Cab tariff +<a href = "#ajaccio_cabs">3</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Cathedral +<a href = "#ajaccio_cathedral">5</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Climate +<a href = "#ajaccio_climate">6</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Curiosities +<a href = "#ajaccio_curio">6</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Drives +<a href = "#ajaccio_drives">3</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Episcopal chapel +<a href = "#ajaccio_episcopal">3</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Excursions +<a href = "#ajaccio_excursions">5</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Fountains +<a href = "#ajaccio_fountains">6</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Hotels +<a href = "#ajaccio_hotels">3</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Library +<a href = "#ajaccio_library">5</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Memorial chapel +<a href = "#ajaccio_memorial">5</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Mission +<a href = "#ajaccio_mission">3</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Napoleon +<a href = "#ajaccio_napoleon">4</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Picture gallery +<a href = "#ajaccio_picture">5</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Pozzo di Borgo +<a href = "#ajaccio_pozzo">4</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +St. Pancras +<a href = "#ajaccio_pancras">6</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Sepulchral chapels +<a href = "#ajaccio_sepul">6</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Steamers +<a href = "#ajaccio_steamers">2</a></p> +<p class = "inset"> +Water-carriers +<a href = "#ajaccio_water">6</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Ajaccio to Bastia +<a href = "#ajaccio_to_bastia">7</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Corté +<a href = "#ajaccio_to_bastia"><ins class = "correction" +title = "page reference (7) missing"> </ins></a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Sartène +<a href = "#ajaccio_to_sartene">23</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Vico and Evisa +<a href = "#ajaccio_to_evisa">22</a></p> +<p>Albertacce +<a href = "#albertacce">19</a></p> +<p>Albuccia point +<a href = "#albuccia">28</a></p> +<p>Aleria +<a href = "#aleria">32</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Corté +<a href = "#aleria_to_corte">33</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Puzzichello +<a href = "#aleria_to_puzzichello">33</a></p> +<p>Alesani <a href = "#alesani">33</a>, +<a href = "#alesani35">35</a></p> +<p>Algajola +<a href = "#algajola">15</a></p> +<p>Amphibole +<a href = "#amphibole">27</a></p> +<p>Apa +<a href = "#apa">24</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Zicavo +<a href = "#apa">24</a></p> +<p>Appietto +<a href = "#appietto">22</a></p> +<p>Arcarotta col <a href = "#col_arcarotta33">33</a>, +<a href = "#col_arcarotta35">35</a></p> +<p>Asco <a href = "#asco19">19</a>, +<a href = "#asco20">20</a></p> +<p>Aullene +<a href = "#aullene">27</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Balagna valley</span> +<a href = "#balagna">20</a></p> + +<p>Balogna +<a href = "#balogna">23</a></p> +<p>Baracci baths +<a href = "#baracci">26</a></p> +<p>Barcaggio +<a href = "#barcaggio">14</a></p> +<p>Bastelica +<a href = "#bastelica">24</a></p> +<p>Bastia +<a href = "#bastia">10</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Calvi +<a href = "#bastia_to_calvi">14</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Cap Corse +<a href = "#bastia_to_rogliano">11</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— rail to Aleria +<a href = "#bastia_to_aleria">34</a></p> +<p>Baths of Baracci +<a href = "#baracci">26</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— of Caldaniccia +<a href = "#caldaniccia">6</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— of Guagno +<a href = "#guagno">23</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— of Guitera +<a href = "#guitera">25</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— of Orezza +<a href = "#orezza">34</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— of Pietrapola <a href = +"#pietrapola28">28</a>, +<a href = "#pietrapola32">32</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— of Puzzichello +<a href = "#puzzichello">33</a></p> +<p>Bavella col <a href = "#col_bavella26">26</a>, +<a href = "#col_bavella31">31</a>, +<a href = "#col_bavella36">36</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Belgodere +<a href = "#belgodere">21</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Olmi-Capella +<a href = "#belgodere_to_olmi">21</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Tartagine forest +<a href = "#belgodere_to_tartagine">21</a></p> +<p>Bettianella lake +<a href = "#bettianella">9</a></p> +<p>Bevinco +<a href = "#bevinco">10</a></p> +<p>Bianca bocca +<a href = "#biancabocca">22</a></p> +<p>Bicchisano +<a href = "#bicchisano">26</a></p> +<p>Biguglia lake +<a href = "#biguglia">10</a></p> +<p>Bocca Melza +<a href = "#boccamelza">16</a></p> +<p>Bocognano +<a href = "#bocognano">7</a></p> +<p><b>Bonifacio</b> +<a href = "#bonifacio">30</a></p> +<p class = "inset">Caves +<a href = "#bonifacio_caves">31</a></p> +<p class = "inset">Charles V. +<a href = "#bonifacio_charles">30</a></p> +<p class = "inset">Napoleon +<a href = "#bonifacio_napoleon">30</a></p> +<p>Bonifacio to Bastia +<a href = "#bonifacio_to_bastia">31</a></p> +<p>Borgo +<a href = "#borgo">10</a></p> +<p>Botticella +<a href = "#botticella">14</a></p> +<p>Brando cave <a href = "#brando10">10</a>, +<a href = "#brando12">12</a></p> +<p>Brustico +<a href = "#brustico">35</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Calacuccia</span> +<a href = "#calacuccia">19</a></p> +<p>Calasima +<a href = "#calasima">19</a></p> +<p>Calcatoggio +<a href = "#calcatoggio">17</a></p> +<p>Caldanella +<a href = "#caldanella">17</a></p> +<p>Caldaniccia +<a href = "#caldaniccia">6</a></p> +<p>Calenzana +<a href = "#calenzana22">22</a></p> +<p>Calenzana <a class = "tag" href = "#noteA" name = "tagA" id = +"tagA">A*</a> +<a href = "#calenzana15">15</a></p> +<p>Calvi +<a href = "#calvi">15</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Ajaccio +<a href = "#calvi_to_ajaccio">16</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Bastia +<a href = "#calvi_to_bastia">20</a></p> +<p>Campo +<a href = "#campo">25</a></p> +<p>Cap Corse +<a href = "#corse">11</a></p> +<p>Capella mount +<a href = "#mt_capella">27</a></p> +<p>Capronale col +<a href = "#col_capronale">16</a></p> +<p>Cargese +<a href = "#cargese">17</a></p> +<p>Cargiaca +<a href = "#cargiaca">27</a></p> +<p>Carrosaccia +<a href = "#carrosaccia">6</a></p> +<p>Casabianca +<a href = "#casabianca">34</a></p> +<p>Casabianda +<a href = "#casabianda">32</a></p> +<p>Casamaccioli +<a href = "#casamaccioli">19</a></p> +<p>Casamozza +<a href = "#casamozza">34</a></p> +<p>Cassalabriva +<a href = "#cassalabriva">26</a></p> +<p>Castagneto <a href = "#alesani">33</a>, +<a href = "#alesani35">35</a></p> +<p>Castagniccia +<a href = "#castagniccia">35</a></p> +<p>Castellaccio col +<a href = "#col_castellaccio">16</a></p> +<p>Castello punta +<a href = "#castello">24</a></p> +<p>Castiglione +<a href = "#castiglione">20</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Cauro +<a href = "#cauro">23</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Bastelica +<a href = "#cauro_to_bastelica">24</a></p> +<p>Celaccia col +<a href = "#col_celaccia">26</a></p> +<p>Cervione <a href = "#cervione33">33</a>, +<a href = "#cervione">35</a></p> +<p>Character +<a href = "#corsica_character">40</a></p> +<p>Chestnut trees<a href = "#chestnut1"> 1</a>, <a href = +"#chestnut41">41</a></p> +<p>Chidazzo +<a href = "#chidazzo">18</a></p> +<p>Cineraggia mount +<a href = "#mt_cineraggia">21</a></p> +<p class = "inset">bocca +<a href = "#bocca_cineraggia">22</a></p> +<p>Cinto mount <a href = "#mt_cinto1">1</a>, +<a href = "#mt_cinto19">19</a>, +<a href = "#mt_cinto20">20</a></p> +<p>Climate +<a href = "#climate">2</a></p> +<p>Coast lakes <a href = "#coastlakes10">10</a>, +<a href = "#coastlakes31">31</a>, +<a href = "#lake_diana">32</a></p> +<p>Corona mount <a href = "#mt_corona19">19</a>, +<a href = "#mt_corona21">21</a></p> +<p>Corsican arms +<a href = "#corsica_arms">38</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— character +<a href = "#corsica_character">40</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— dimensions +<a href = "#corsica_dimensions">1</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— patroness +<a href = "#corsica_patroness">38</a></p> +<!--png 063--> +<p><ins class = "correction" title = "name of village">Corscia</ins> +<a href = "#corscia">19</a></p> +<p>Corté +<a href = "#corte">8</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Aleria +<a href = "#corte">8</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Mt. Rotondo +<a href = "#corte_to_mt_rotondo">8</a></p> +<p>Coscione mount +<a href = "#mt_coscione">25</a></p> +<p>Cotone <a href = "#cotone33">33</a>, +<a href = "#cotone35">35</a></p> +<p>Cozzano +<a href = "#cozzano">27</a></p> +<p>Cristinacce +<a href = "#cristinacce">17</a></p> +<p>Cuculla mount +<a href = "#mt_cuculla">18</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Dente Capo</span> +<a href = "#dentecapo">21</a></p> +<p>Diana lake +<a href = "#lake_diana">32</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Dominicacci +<a href = "#dominicacci">24</a></p> +<p>Don Giovanni mount +<a href = "#mt_dongiovanni">27</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Else valley</span> +<a href = "#else">24</a></p> +<p>Erbajo col <a href = "#col_erbajo8">8</a>, +<a href = "#col_erbajo16">16</a></p> +<p>Erbalunga +<a href = "#erbalunga">12</a></p> +<p>Ersa +<a href = "#ersa">14</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Escutcheon +<a href = "#corsica_arms">38</a></p> +<p>Evergreen oaks +<a href = "#evergreen">41</a></p> +<p>Evisa <a href = "#evisa18">18</a>, +<a href = "#evisa23">23</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Albertacce +<a href = "#evisa_to_albertacce">18</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Felce</span> +<a href = "#felce">35</a></p> +<p>Feliceto <a href = "#feliceto21">21</a>, +<a href = "#feliceto22">22</a></p> +<p>Fium Orbo source +<a href = "#fium_orbo">28</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Folelli +<a href = "#folelli">33</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Piedicroce +<a href = "#folelli">33</a></p> +<p>Francardo bridge <a href = "#francardo9">9</a>, +<a href = "#francardo20">20</a></p> +<p>Frasseto <a href = "#frasseto24">24</a>, +<a href = "#frasseto25">25</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Galeria</span> +<a href = "#galeria">16</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to forests of Filosorma +<a href = "#galeria_to_filosorma">16</a></p> +<p>Ghisonaccia +<a href = "#ghisonaccia">32</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Ghisoni <a href = +"#ghisoni_to_ghisonaccia">29</a></p> +<p>Ghisoni +<a href = "#ghisoni">29</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Ghisonaccia <a href = +"#ghisoni_to_ghisonaccia">29</a></p> +<p>Giraglia island +<a href = "#giraglia">14</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Golo source +<a href = "#golo_source">19</a></p> +<p>Gozzi mount +<a href = "#mt_gozzi">22</a></p> +<p>Granace<a class = "tag" href = "#noteB" name = "tagBi" id = +"tagBi">B*</a> col +<a href = "#col_granace">25</a></p> +<p>Grosso mount +<a href = "#mt_grosso">21</a></p> +<p>Guagno baths +<a href = "#guagno">23</a></p> +<p>Guitera baths +<a href = "#guitera">25</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">History</span> +<a href = "#history">37</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Houses of shelter +<a href = "#maison">41</a>.<br> +See also under “<a href = "#index_maison">Maison</a>.â€</p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Ile Rousse</span> +<a href = "#ilerousse">15</a></p> +<p>Incudine mount +<a href = "#mt_incudine">25</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Inzecca +<a href = "#inzecca">29</a></p> +<p><ins class = "correction" title = +"text reads ‘Isolaccia’">Isolaccio</ins> +<a href = "#isolaccio">28</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan = "2"> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Kyrie Eleison</span> +<a href = "#albuccia">28</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Lacciola col</span> +<a href = "#col_lacciola">17</a></p> +<p>La Piana +<a href = "#lapiana">17</a></p> +<p>Larone col <a href = "#col_larone26">26</a>, +<a href = "#col_larone36">36</a></p> +<p>Lavatoggio +<a href = "#lavatoggio">21</a></p> +<p>Leone coronato +<a href = "#leone">30</a></p> +<p><ins class = "correction" +title = "text has ‘Levie 37, 32’ only">Levie</ins> +<a href = "#levie26">26</a>, +<a href = "#levie32">32</a>, +<a href = "#levie">37</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Lonca valley +<a href = "#lonca">16</a></p> +<p>Lozzi +<a href = "#lozzi">19</a></p> +<p>Lugo +<a href = "#lugo">8</a></p> +<p>Lugo di Nazza +<a href = "#lugodinazza">32</a></p> +<p>Lumio +<a href = "#lumio">15</a></p> +<p>Luri +<a href = "#luri">12</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Macinaggio</span> +<a href = "#macinaggio13">13</a>, +<a href = "#macinaggio39">39</a></p> +<p>Maddalena isle +<a href = "#maddalena">25</a></p> +<p><a name = "index_maison" id = "index_maison">Maison Aïtone</a> +<a href = "#maison_aitone">18</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Alza +<a href = "#maison_alza">36</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Arghiavara +<a href = "#maison_arghiavara">36</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Ballatojo +<a href = "#maison_ballatojo">36</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Bavella +<a href = "#maison_bavella">36</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Canareccia +<a href = "#maison_canareccia">28</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Castellaccio +<a href = "#maison_castellaccio">18</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Castelluccio +<a href = "#maison_castelluccio">36</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Ghiraldino +<a href = "#maison_ghiraldino">28</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Marmano +<a href = "#maison_marmano">28</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Ometa +<a href = "#maison_ometa">16</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Popaja +<a href = "#maison_popaja">19</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Rocchio-Pinzuto +<a href = "#maison_rocchiopinzuto">36</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Maison S. Antoine +<a href = "#maison_st_antoine">28</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Sciattarina +<a href = "#maison_sciattarina">18</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Scrivano +<a href = "#maison_scrivano">28</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Tagnone +<a href = "#maison_tagnone">18</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— Zipitoli +<a href = "#maison_zipitoli">24</a></p> +<p>Manganella col +<a href = "#col_manganella">9</a></p> +<p>Mariana +<a href = "#mariana">34</a></p> +<p>Marmano forest +<a href = "#marmano_forest">28</a></p> +<p>Menta col +<a href = "#col_menta">24</a></p> +<p>Moltifao +<a href = "#moltifao">20</a></p> +<p>Moor’s head +<a href = "#moors_head">38</a></p> +<p>Morosaglia +<a href = "#morosaglia">35</a></p> +<p>Morsaglia +<a href = "#morsaglia">14</a></p> +<p>Mouflon +<a href = "#mouflon">2</a></p> +<p>Muchieto <a href = "#muchieto33">33</a>, +<a href = "#muchieto35">35</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Napoleon</span> <a href = +"#ajaccio_napoleon">4</a>, +<a href = "#napoleon26">26</a>, +<a href = "#bonifacio_napoleon">30</a></p> +<p>Nelson +<a href = "#nelson">26</a></p> +<p>Nino lake +<a href = "#nino">19</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Niolo +<a href = "#niolo">19</a></p> +<p>Nonza <a href = "#nonza">12</a>, +<a href = "#nonza14">14</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Olivese</span> +<a href = "#olivese">27</a></p> +<p>Olive trees +<a href = "#olive">20</a></p> +<p>Olmeto +<a href = "#olmeto">26</a></p> +<p>Olmi-Capella +<a href = "#olmi">21</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Ometa ilex forest +<a href = "#ometa">16</a></p> +<p>Oninanda col +<a href = "#col_oninanda">20</a></p> +<p>Orezza spa +<a href = "#orezza">34</a></p> +<p>Oro mount +<a href = "#mt_oro">1</a></p> +<p>Ortale <a href = "#ortale33">33</a>, +<a href = "#ortale35">35</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Padro Mount</span> +<a href = "#mt_padro1">1</a>, <a href = "#mt_padro21">21</a></p> +<p>Padulella +<a href = "#padulella">33</a></p> +<p>Pagliorba mount +<a href = "#mt_pagliorba">1</a></p> +<p>Palasca +<a href = "#palasca">22</a></p> +<p>Palneca +<a href = "#palneca">28</a></p> +<p>Pancheraccia +<a href = "#pancheraccia">33</a></p> +<p>Paoli +<a href = "#paoli">39</a></p> +<p>Patron Saint +<a href = "#corsica_patroness">38</a></p> +<p>Pecorile +<a href = "#pecorile">14</a></p> +<p>Perticato forest +<a href = "#perticato">16</a></p> +<p>Pertusato mount +<a href = "#mt_pertusato">31</a></p> +<p>Petrella col +<a href = "#col_petrella">19</a></p> +<p>Piano +<a href = "#piano">34</a></p> +<p>Piedicroce <a href = "#piedicroce34">34</a>, +<a href = "#piedicroce9">9</a>, +<a href = "#piedicroce">35</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Prunete +<a href = "#piedicroce_to_prunete">35</a></p> +<p>Pietrapola baths <a href = "#pietrapola28">28</a>, +<a href = "#pietrapola32">32</a></p> +<p>Pines +<a href = "#pines">7</a></p> +<p>Pino <a href = "#pino12">12</a>, +<a href = "#pino14">14</a></p> +<p>Pinus Laricio +<a href = "#pinuslaricio">7</a></p> +<p>Pinus Pinaster +<a href = "#pinuspinaster">7</a></p> +<p>Poggio di Nazza +<a href = "#poggiodinazza">32</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Pont Diable +<a href = "#diable">20</a></p> +<p>Pont du Golo +<a href = "#golo">34</a></p> +<p>Ponte alla Leccia <a href = "#leccia9">9</a>, +<a href = "#leccia22">22</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Calvi +<a href = "#leccia_to_calvi">20</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Piedicroce +<a href = "#leccia_to_piedicroce">34</a></p> +<p>Ponteniello forest +<a href = "#ponteniello">24</a></p> +<p>Ponte Novo<a class = "tag" href = "#noteC" name = "tagC" id = +"tagC">C*</a> <a href = "#pontenovo">9</a>, +<a href = "#pontenovo22">22</a>, +<a href = "#pontenovo39"><span class = "sans">39</span></a></p> +<p>Popolasca +<a href = "#popolasca">20</a></p> +<p>Porri +<a href = "#porri">34</a></p> +<p>Porta +<a href = "#porta">34</a></p> +<p>Porto +<a href = "#porto">16</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Evisa +<a href = "#porto_to_evisa">18</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Ponte Francardo +<a href = "#porto_to_francardo">18</a></p> +<p>Portopollo +<a href = "#portopollo">32</a></p> +<p>Porto-Vecchio +<a href = "#portovecchio">31</a></p> +<p>Prato col +<a href = "#col_prato">35</a></p> +<p>Propriano +<a href = "#propriano">26</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Solenzara <a href = +"#propriano_to_solenzara">26</a></p> +<p>Prunelli source +<a href = "#prunelli">28</a></p> +<p>Prunete <a href = "#prunete">33</a>, +<a href = "#prunete35">35</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Alesani +<a href = "#prunete">33</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan = "2"> +<p><ins class = "correction" title = "error for ‘Quercus ilex’"><span +class = "smallcaps">Quercus Ilex</span></ins> +<a href = "#quercus">41</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<!--png 064--> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Rapara Col</span> +<a href = "#col_rapara">28</a></p> +<p>Renoso mount <a href = "#mt_renoso7">7</a>, +<a href = "#mt_renoso24">24</a></p> +<p>Retto mount +<a href = "#mt_retto">19</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Rogliano +<a href = "#rogliano">13</a></p> +<p>Rotondo mount <a href = "#mt_rotondo1">1</a>, +<a href = "#mt_rotondo8">8</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Sagona</span> <a href = "#sagona">17</a>, +<a href = "#sagona23">23</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Aitone forest +<a href = "#sagona_to_aitone">17</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Vico +<a href = "#sagona23">23</a></p> +<p>St. Antoine col +<a href = "#col_st_antoine">23</a></p> +<p class = "inset">— Bernardino col +<a href = "#col_st_bernardino">14</a></p> +<p class = "inset">— Colombano col +<a href = "#col_st_colombano">22</a></p> +<p class = "inset">— Devota +<a href = "#st_devota">38</a></p> +<p class = "inset">— Florent +<a href = "#st_florent">14</a></p> +<p class = "inset">— Georges col +<a href = "#col_st_georges">24</a></p> +<p class = "inset">— Gavino di Carbini +<a href = "#st_gavino">37</a></p> +<p class = "inset">— Lucia di Tallano +<a href = "#st_lucia26">26</a>, +<a href = "#st_lucia27">27</a>, +<a href = "#st_lucia32">32</a>, +<a href = "#st_lucia37">37</a></p> +<p class = "inset">— Lucie col +<a href = "#col_st_lucie">12</a></p> +<p class = "inset">— Maria Siché +<a href = "#st_maria">24</a></p> +<p class = "inset">— Nicolao +<a href = "#st_nicolao">33</a></p> +<p class = "inset">— Pietro mount +<a href = "#mt_st_pietro">35</a></p> +<p class = "inset">— Sebastien col<a class = "tag" href = "#noteD" +name = "tagD" id = "tagD">D*</a> +<a href = "#col_st_sebastien22">22</a></p> +<p class = "inset">— Severa +<a href = "#st_severa">12</a></p> +<p>Salario fountain +<a href = "#salario">6</a></p> +<p>Sampiero <a href = "#sampiero24">24</a>, +<a href = "#sampiero38">38</a></p> +<p>Sartène +<a href = "#sartene">27</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Bonifacio +<a href = "#sartene_to_bonifacio">30</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Vivario +<a href = "#sartene_to_corte">27</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Scala di Santa Regina +<a href = "#santaregina">10</a></p> +<p>Scozzolatojo col +<a href = "#col_scozzolatojo">29</a></p> +<p>Scrivano col +<a href = "#col_scrivano">28</a></p> +<p>Sea-urchins +<a href = "#seaurchins">22</a></p> +<p>Sebastien col<a class = "tag" href = "#noteD">D*</a> +<a href = "#col_st_sebastien17">17</a></p> +<p>Seneca’s tower +<a href = "#senecastower">12</a></p> +<p>Serra col +<a href = "#col_serra">14</a></p> +<p>Serraggio <a href = "#serraggio8">8</a>, +<a href = "#serraggio33">33</a></p> +<p>Sevi col +<a href = "#col_sevi">17</a></p> +<p>Silvareccio +<a href = "#silvareccio">34</a></p> +<p>Solenzara +<a href = "#solenzara">31</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Sartène +<a href = "#solenzara_to_sartene">36</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Zonza +<a href = "#solenzara">31</a></p> +<p>Sollacaro +<a href = "#sollacaro">26</a></p> +<p>Sorba col +<a href = "#col_sorba">29</a></p> +<p>Speloncato +<a href = "#speloncato">21</a></p> +<p>Spelunca +<a href = "#spelunca">18</a></p> +<p>Sposata +<a href = "#sposata">25</a></p> +<p>Stazzona +<a href = "#stazzona">34</a></p> +<p>Steamers <a href = "#ajaccio_steamers">2</a>, +<a href = "#bastia_steamers10">10</a>, +<a href = "#bastia_steamers11">11</a></p> +<p>Stretta +<a href = "#stretta">35</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Taca Forest</span> +<a href = "#taca">27</a></p> +<p>Tafonato mount <a href = "#mt_tafonato16">16</a>, +<a href = "#mt_tafonato18">18</a></p> +<p>Taravo source +<a href = "#taravo">28</a></p> +<p>Tartagine forest +<a href = "#tartagine">21</a></p> +<p>Teghime col +<a href = "#col_teghime">14</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Theodore Neuhoff +<a href = "#theodore">32</a></p> +<p>Torre all’Osse +<a href = "#torreallosse">12</a></p> +<p>Traunato mount +<a href = "#mt_traunato">20</a></p> +<p>Treccio ilex forest +<a href = "#treccio">16</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Ucciani Bridge</span> +<a href = "#ucciani">7</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Uomo di Cagna +<a href = "#uomodicagna">30</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Vadina</span> +<a href = "#vadina">8</a></p> +<p>Valdoniello forest <a href = "#valdoniello18">18</a>, +<a href = "#valdoniello23">23</a></p> +<p>Vanina <a href = "#vanina25">25</a>, +<a href = "#vanina38">38</a></p> +<p>Vecchio source +<a href = "#vecchio">28</a></p> +<p>Vendetta +<a href = "#vendetta">40</a></p> +<p>Venzolasca +<a href = "#venzolasca">34</a></p> +<p>Verde col +<a href = "#col_verde">28</a></p> +<p>Verde forest +<a href = "#verde_forest">28</a></p> +<p>Vergio col +<a href = "#col_vergio">18</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Vescovato +<a href = "#vescovato">34</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Porta +<a href = "#vescovato_to_porta">34</a></p> +<p>Vico +<a href = "#vico">23</a></p> +<p>Ville +<a href = "#ville">21</a></p> +<p>Vivario <a href = "#vivario">8</a>, +<a href = "#vivario29">29</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Pietrapola +<a href = "#vivario_to_pietrapola">8</a></p> +<p class = "inset">—— to Sartène +<a href = "#sartene_to_corte">27</a></p> +<p>Vizzavona +<a href = "#vizzavona">7</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Wines</span> <a href = "#wines2">2</a>, +<a href = "#wines11">11</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Wyse, W., +<a href = "#wyse">24</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<p><span class = "smallcaps">Zecavo</span> +<a href = "#zecavo">25</a></p> +<p>Zicavo <a href = "#zicavo">25</a>, +<a href = "#zicavo27">27</a>, +<a href = "#zicavo28">28</a></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>Zonza <a href = "#zonza26">26</a>, +<a href = "#zonza31">31</a>, +<a href = "#zonza36">36</a></p> +</td> +</tr> + +</table> + +<h5 class = "section">THE END.</h5> + +<h6><i>Printed by <span class = "smallcaps">R. & R. Clark</span>, +Edinburgh</i></h6> + +<hr> + +<div class = "mynote smaller"> +<h4 class = "boldf"> +Transcriber’s Notes</h4> + +<p>When the Index and body text disagreed on spelling, the form shown in +the <a href = "#map2">General Map</a> was used. The abbreviation “ft†+was regularized to “ft.†where the full stop was missing or +invisible.</p> + +<p> +<a href = "#tagA" name = "noteA" id = "noteA">A*.</a> +Index entry reads “Calenzaniâ€, but body text has “Calenzanaâ€; it appears +to refer to the same place as the earlier Index entry for “Calenzanaâ€. +</p> + +<p> +<a href = "#tagBi" name = "noteB" id = "noteB">B*</a> (Index), <a href = +"#tagBt">B*</a> (text). +Body text has “Garanace†and Index has “Garanceâ€. The Map’s spelling +“Granace†was used because it can be found in modern sources; the Index +entry was alphabetized accordingly. +</p> + +<p> +<a href = "#tagC" name = "noteC" id = "noteC">C*</a>. +The General Map and the town description (<a href = +"#pontenovo">p. 9</a>) use the “Novo†spelling; references on <a +href = "#pontenovo22">p. 22</a> and <a href = +"#pontenovo39">p. 39</a> use “Nuovoâ€. The Index as printed had +parallel entries: “Ponte Novo 9, 22†and “Ponte Nuovo 9, 22â€. The +p. 39 link was added by the transcriber. +</p> + +<p> +<a href = "#tagD" name = "noteD" id = "noteD">D*</a>. +The names “Col St. Sebastien†and “Col Sebastien†are each used once in +the text. They are the same place, called “St. Sebastien†on the Map. +</p> + +<h5 class = "boldf"><a name = "duplicate" id = "duplicate">About the +Guidebook</a></h5> + +<p>The <i>Itinerary through Corsica</i> originally appeared as one +section of Black’s guide to the Riviera. In later editions it became a +separate volume. In the text as scanned, the Table of Contents and List +of Maps appear twice: first as pages v-vii (with Maps on unpaginated +viii) headed “Contentsâ€, then as pages xv-xvii (Maps on xviii) headed +“Corsicaâ€. Pages ix-xiv are absent. The simplest explanation is that the +introductory pages from two different versions of the book found their +way into the same archive.</p> + +<p>Black’s <i>Guide to South France, East Half</i> says: “The asterisk +signifies that they [hotels or inns] are especially good of their +class.†As this explanation comes more than 200 pages into the book, it +can be assumed that the usage was already familiar to the reader.</p> + +</div> + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<hr class="full" noshade> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARY THROUGH CORSICA***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 19882-h.txt or 19882-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/8/8/19882">http://www.gutenberg.org/1/9/8/8/19882</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution.</p> + + + +<pre> +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license">http://www.gutenberg.org/license)</a>. + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS,' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Each eBook is in a subdirectory of the same number as the eBook's +eBook number, often in several formats including plain vanilla ASCII, +compressed (zipped), HTML and others. + +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks replace the old file and take over +the old filename and etext number. The replaced older file is renamed. +VERSIONS based on separate sources are treated as new eBooks receiving +new filenames and etext numbers. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org">http://www.gutenberg.org</a> + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + +EBooks posted prior to November 2003, with eBook numbers BELOW #10000, +are filed in directories based on their release date. If you want to +download any of these eBooks directly, rather than using the regular +search system you may utilize the following addresses and just +download by the etext year. + +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext06/">http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext06/</a> + + (Or /etext 05, 04, 03, 02, 01, 00, 99, + 98, 97, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 92, 91 or 90) + +EBooks posted since November 2003, with etext numbers OVER #10000, are +filed in a different way. The year of a release date is no longer part +of the directory path. The path is based on the etext number (which is +identical to the filename). The path to the file is made up of single +digits corresponding to all but the last digit in the filename. For +example an eBook of filename 10234 would be found at: + +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/0/2/3/10234 + +or filename 24689 would be found at: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/6/8/24689 + +An alternative method of locating eBooks: +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL">http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL</a> + +*** END: FULL LICENSE *** +</pre> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/19882-h/images/corsica.png b/19882-h/images/corsica.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..be3e063 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/corsica.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map1.png b/19882-h/images/map1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..385d08d --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map1.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map1thumb.png b/19882-h/images/map1thumb.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0789856 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map1thumb.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map2.png b/19882-h/images/map2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fb1e0fc --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map2.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map2bw.png b/19882-h/images/map2bw.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a07dc54 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map2bw.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map2thumb.png b/19882-h/images/map2thumb.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..34faaf9 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map2thumb.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map3.png b/19882-h/images/map3.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..765d0a0 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map3.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map3thumb.png b/19882-h/images/map3thumb.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5341c29 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map3thumb.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map4.png b/19882-h/images/map4.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9b26f37 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map4.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map4bw.png b/19882-h/images/map4bw.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..acac097 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map4bw.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map4thumb.png b/19882-h/images/map4thumb.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7bc9904 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map4thumb.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map5.png b/19882-h/images/map5.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..734db49 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map5.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map5bw.png b/19882-h/images/map5bw.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e94c0fc --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map5bw.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map5thumb.png b/19882-h/images/map5thumb.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..24ed9db --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map5thumb.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map6.png b/19882-h/images/map6.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bf1c48a --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map6.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map6bw.png b/19882-h/images/map6bw.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f0d5e40 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map6bw.png diff --git a/19882-h/images/map6thumb.png b/19882-h/images/map6thumb.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea441a8 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882-h/images/map6thumb.png diff --git a/19882.txt b/19882.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dd94a37 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3500 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Itinerary through Corsica, by Charles Bertram +Black + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Itinerary through Corsica + by its Rail, Carriage & Forest Roads + + +Author: Charles Bertram Black + + + +Release Date: November 20, 2006 [eBook #19882] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARY THROUGH CORSICA*** + + +E-text prepared by Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso, and the Project Gutenberg +Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/) from page +images generously made available by the Bibliothèque nationale de France +(BnF/Gallica) (http://gallica.bnf.fr/) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations and maps. + See 19882-h.htm or 19882-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/8/8/19882/19882-h/19882-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/8/8/19882/19882-h.zip) + + + Images of the original pages are available through + La Bibliotheque nationale de France. See + http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1034792 + + +Transcriber's note: + + The printed book carried two kinds of headnote: keyword and + mileage. + + "Keyword" headers, noting the places and subjects mentioned + on the page, have been placed before the most appropriate + paragraph. + + Each itinerary gives the "miles from" {starting point} and + "miles to" {ending point}, with the numbers themselves printed + in the left and right corners of each paragraph. For this + e-text the numbers are shown in braces before the beginning + of each paragraph; the place names are given at the beginning + of the itinerary, and repeated as needed. Paragraphs + describing side exursions do not have mileage information. + + Additional transcriber's notes are at the end of the book. + + + + + +CORSICA. + +[Map: +Sketch Map of the Riviera and Corsica] + + + * * * * * + + +New Editions of Guide-Books for +France, Belgium, Spain, Portugal +and the Channel Islands. + +Copiously Illustrated with Maps and Plans. + + +NORTH-FRANCE--From the North Sea to the Loire, exclusive of Paris, and + from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine. 19 Maps and 21 Plans 7/6 + +SOUTH-FRANCE--From the Loire to the Mediterranean, and from the Bay of + Biscay to the rivers Arno and Po. The island of Corsica. 40 Maps and + 27 Plans 7/6 + +_Published also in separate Parts._ + +North-France, WEST-HALF, or NORMANDY, BRITTANY and TOURAINE. 14 Maps + and 16 Plans. Eighth Edition 5/ + +NORMANDY: Its CASTLES and CHURCHES. Second Edition. 5 Maps and 9 Plans + 2/6 + +North-France, EAST-HALF, or PICARDY, CHAMPAGNE, LORRAINE, ALSACE and + part of BURGUNDY. 5 Plans and 5 Maps. Third Edition 2/6 + +South-France, WEST-HALF. The SUMMER RESORTS in the PYRENEES; LUCHON, + BIGORRE, BAREGES, etc.; the WINTER RESORTS of PAU, ARCACHON, BIARRITZ, + ST. JEAN-DE-LUZ, VERNET, AMELIE-LES-BAINS and MALAGA, and the + CLARET-WINE VINEYARDS in MEDOC. 17 Maps and 4 Plans. Fourth Edition + 2/6 + +South-France, EAST-HALF, or the VALLEYS of the WALDENSES, of the + RHONE, the DURANCE and the UPPER LOIRE; the Baths of VICHY, + AIX-LES-BAINS, ROYAT, VALS, MONT-DORE, BOURBOULE, BOURBON-LANCY, + ACQUI, LUCCA, VALDIERI, etc.; the VOLCANIC REGION OF ARDECHE; the + MOUNTAIN-PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY; and the RIVIERA of the + MEDITERRANEAN from MARSEILLES to LEGHORN. 20 Plans and 21 Maps. + Fourth Edition 5/ + +THE RIVIERA, or the MEDITERRANEAN from MARSEILLES to LEGHORN, + including the inland towns of PISA, LUCCA, CARRARA and FLORENCE, + and Excursions into the MARITIME ALPS. Fourth Edition. 10 Plans and + 13 Maps 2/6 + +CORSICA, its Rail, Carriage and Forest Roads, with 6 Maps from the + latest authorities. Second Edition 1/ + +BELGIUM, its CHURCHES, CHIMES and BATTLEFIELDS. 9 Plans and 4 Maps + 2/6 + +NORTH-FRANCE (East-Half) and BELGIUM in One Volume, including a + part of HOLLAND. Convenient for those going to Aix-la-Chapelle, Spa, + Vittel, Contrexeville, or any of the Bathing Stations on the North Sea + 5/ + +HANDBOOK for the CAR-TOURIST in the pleasant Islands of JERSEY, + GUERNSEY and ALDERNEY. Maps and Plans. Second Edition 1/ + +SPAIN and PORTUGAL. (O'SHEA.) Seventh Edition. Edited by JOHN LOMAS. + Crown 8vo. Maps and Plans 15/ + + +From "Scotsman," June 2, 1884. + +_"C. B. Black's Guide-books have a character of their own; and that +character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally +acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in which +only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent observer of +Continental life could afford to do. He does not 'get up' the places as +a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity of the case, +compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common mistakes, and to +supply information on minute points of much interest apt to be +overlooked by the hurried observer."_ + + + + * * * * * + + + +ITINERARY THROUGH CORSICA + +by Its Rail, Carriage & Forest Roads + +by + +C. B. BLACK + +Illustrated by Five Maps and One Plan + + + + + + + +[Illustration: Moor's Head] + + + +Edinburgh +Adam and Charles Black +1888 + + + + +CONTENTS: CORSICA. + + [Transcriber's Note: + The four pages consisting of the Contents and List of Illustrations + appeared twice in the original text, first as pgs. v-viii, then as + pgs. xv-xviii. (The intervening pages are absent.) The text and layout + are identical except that the first group is headed "Contents", the + second "Corsica." The repeated text has been omitted here.] + + Page + +Corsica. --Position --Extent --Population --Highest Mountains + --Forests --Vegetation --Aspect --Climate --Steamboats 1 + +Ajaccio. --Hotels --Cabs --Napoleon's Birthplace --Memorial + Chapel --Chapel of San Antonio --Chapelle Greco --Fontaine du + Salario --Family Sepulchral Chapels --Climate --Fair of + St. Pancras --Water Carriers --Curiosities 3 + +Ajaccio to Bastia by Corte. --This road traverses the centre + of the island diagonally, exhibits every characteristic of + Corsica, crosses the longest rivers, passes through one of the + greatest forests and by some of the highest mountains, and + connects the three principal towns. Rail between Corte and + Bastia 7 + + From Vivario, p. 8, a road leads to the mineral water + establishment of Pietrapola. From Corte, p. 8, the ascent is + made of Mt. Rotondo. From the Ponte Francardo, p. 9, the most + important of the Forest roads extends S.W. to Porto by + Albertacce and Evisa. From Albertacce the ascent is made of + Mt. Cinto. + + The great highway traversing the island from Prunete to Calvi + passes through Ponte alla Leccia, p. 9. From Bastia, p. 10, + are trains or diligences to every part of the east coast, and + steamers to Leghorn, Genoa, Nice and Marseilles. + +Bastia to Rogliano and Morsaglia, skirting the east coast of + the long peninsula called Cap Corse. This road follows more or + less the level of the sea till it reaches Macinaggio, whence + it ascends to Morsaglia. The highway on the western side of + Cap Corse is cut along the flanks of the mountains, generally + at a considerable height above the sea 11 + +Bastia to Calvi by St. Florent and the Ile Rousse 14 + +Calvi to Ajaccio, by Galeria, Porto and Sagona. From Galeria + and Porto great Forest roads penetrate into the interior 16 + +GALERIA to the FORESTS of FILOSORMA. --Tourists should not + explore any of the great Forest roads without being provided + with letters to the dwellers in the maisons forestieres and in + those of the Cantonniers; see p. 41 and map, p. 20 16 + +PORTO to the PONTE FRANCARDO. --The most important of all the + Forest roads. It passes through Evisa and by several good + "maisons forestieres." From the Col Vergio is seen Mt. + Tafanato, with its natural tunnel, and from Albertacce is + commenced the ascent of Mt. Cinto. Several mule-paths ramify + from this forest road, the most important being to Lake Nino + and Corte, and to Asco: whence Mt. Cinto is also ascended. The + most famous part of the road itself is the Scala di Santa + Regina 18 + +Calvi to Corte or to BASTIA by PONTE ALLA LECCIA. --This road + traverses a most picturesque country, and the region of the + finest olive trees in the island 20 + +BELGODERE to the FOREST of TARTAGINE. --This forest contains few + old trees, and is not of easy access 21 + +Ajaccio to Evisa, VICO and the BATHS of GUAGNO 22 + +Ajaccio to Sartene, by CAURO, APA, OLMETO and PROPRIANO. See + S.W. end of general map 23 + +CAURO to BASTELICA. --Bastelica is the common name of a group of + hamlets, in one of which Sampiero was born. From this the + ascent is made of Mt. Renoso 24 + +AJACCIO and APA to ZICAVO and the BATHS of GUITERA, by + Santa-Maria-Siche, Frasseto and Zecavo. S. Maria-Siche is the + birthplace of the fair and gentle Vanina. From Zicavo the + ascent is made of Mt. Incudine; whence is beheld the finest + view in Corsica. See maps on fly-leaf and fronting p. 27 24 + +PROPRIANO to SOLENZARA, from the S.W. to the S.E. of the island. + This Route Forestiere is better treated on p. 36, as Solenzara + to Sartene 26 + +Sartene to Corte by Vivario. --This is the great central + highway, of which the wildest and most difficult part is given + on map, p. 27. It leads to some fine forests, of which the + best is the Verde forest. At the most desolate portion are + tolerably comfortable maisons forestieres. Vehicles should be + hired either at Sartene or Vivario, 20 to 25 frs. per day 27 + +GHISONI to GHISONACCIA, by the route forestiere, extending from + the central main road to the Ghisonaccia railway station on + the east coast. The most dangerous part of the road is the + "Passage" Inzecca. See map, p. 27 29 + +SARTENE to BONIFACIO 30 + +Bonifacio to Bastia by the fertile plains and insalubrious + lakes of the east coast 31 + +Aleria to Corte by a picturesque road following the course of + the Tavignano. Coach every other day 33 + +Prunete to Castagneto or ALESANI, by coach daily. Castagneto + is one of the villages in the Castagniccia or Chestnut + country. The road ascends all the way. It, as well as most + of the roads into the interior, should not be taken till the + chestnut trees are in leaf 33 + +FOLELLI to STAZZONA by coach daily. Stazzona is the village + nearest to the Spa of Orezza. The road extends to Ponte alla + Leccia 33 + +VESCOVATO STATION to PORTA, by coach daily, passing Vescovato, + Venzolasca and Silvareccio. In summer the coach goes on to + Piedicroce 34 + +PONTE ALLA LECCIA to PIEDICROCE by "Courrier" daily 34 + +Piedicroce to Prunete-Railway Station, the finest part of the + road being between Piedicroce and Castagneto. Coach from + Castagneto to Prunete by Cervione. From Castagneto or Alesani + to Prunete see Prunete to Alesani, on p. 33 35 + +SOLENZARA, on the S.E. coast, to SARTENE, 46 m. S.W., by a + forest road with much fine scenery 36 + +HISTORY, HABITS, AGRICULTURE and HOUSES OF REFUGE, called + "Maison" in the index 37 + + +LIST OF MAPS. + + Page + +Sketch Map of the Riviera and Corsica, showing the relative + position of their principal towns; as also the ports connected + with each other by steamboat +_Fly-leaf_ + +General Map of Corsica 1 + +Plan of Ajaccio. --The town is built on rising ground 3 + +Environs of Ajaccio 6 + +The Western Central Region. --This is the least known and the + most difficult portion of the island to traverse. Yet easy and + picturesque short excursions may be made from Porto, Evisa and + Galeria, into the forests of evergreen oaks, etc 20 + +Central Corsica, or the most troublesome part of the grand + highway, which traverses Corsica from south to north, from + Sartene to Ponte alla Leccia, whence it ramifies eastward to + Bastia and westward to Calvi and Ile Rousse. It joins the + railway and the road between Ajaccio and Corte near Vivario 27 + + + + +CORSICA + + +Is situated 54 miles W. from Leghorn, 98 m. S. from Genoa, and 106 m. +S.E. from Nice. It is 116 m. long, 52 m. broad, and contains an area of +3376 square miles; divided into 5 arrondissements, subdivided into 62 +cantons, and these again into 363 communes, with a population of +275,000. The surface, of which little more than a tenth is under +cultivation, is composed of lofty and rugged granite mountain chains, +diverging in all directions from the culminating peaks of Mounts Cinto, +8892 ft.; Rotondo, 8613 ft.; Pagliorba, 8278 ft.; Padro, 7846 ft.; and +Oro, 8829 ft. On the western and southern sides of the island these +ranges terminate abruptly on the shore, or run out into the sea; while, +on the eastern side, a great undulating plain intervenes between their +termination and the coast, in summer troubled with malaria, but in a +less degree than formerly. + +Corsica is the central region of the great plant system of the +Mediterranean. Among the many fine forests which cover the mountains, +the most important are those of Valdoniello, Filosorma, Vizzavona Verde, +Zonza, Bavella, Ometa and Calenzana. They contain noble specimens of +pines, oaks, beech, chestnut, walnut and olive trees. The cork oak forms +woods, chiefly in the south of the island. The chestnut trees are as +large and fruitful as the best on the Apennines, and the nuts form the +staple article of food for man and beast during the winter months. +Indeed, these glorious chestnut and beech forests, when in full foliage, +are the grand features of Corsican scenery, which therefore cannot be +seen to advantage till towards the end of May, and if to this we add the +splendid bloom of the oleanders, not till July. "I at any rate know of +no such combination of sea and mountains, of the sylvan beauty of the +north with the rich colours of the south; no region where within so +small a space nature takes so many sublime and exquisite aspects as she +does in Corsica. Palms, orange groves, olives, vines, maize and +chestnuts; the most picturesque beech forests, the noblest pine woods in +Europe; granite peaks, snows and frozen lakes--all these are brought +into the compass of a day's journey. Everything is as novel to the +Alpine climber as if, in place of being on a fragment of the Alps, +severed only by 100 miles from their nearest snows, he was in a +different continent."--D. W. Freshfield, Alpine Club. + +[Map: Corsica] + +[Headnote: VEGETATION.] + +The prickly pear, the American aloe, the castor-oil plant and the +fig-tree, grow wild along the coast; while a little farther upwards, on +the slopes and plateaus, the arbutus, cistus, oleander, myrtle and +various kinds of heaths, form a dense coppice, called in the island +maqui, supplying an excellent covert for various kinds of game and +numerous blackbirds. When the arbutus and myrtle berries are ripe the +blackbirds are eagerly hunted, as at that time they are plump and make +very savoury and delicate eating. + +There are few cows on the island, the greater part of the milk supply +being procured from goats. It is excellent, and has no rank flavour. + +The only remarkable creature is the mouflon, a species of sheep, +resembling that almost extinct animal the bouquetin or ibex of the Alps. +It inhabits the highest mountains, and though very wild is easily tamed. + +The best red wines are grown about Ajaccio, Tallano, Cervione and +Sartene, and the best white wines in Sari and in the valleys of Cape +Corso. They improve up to twenty years, and even up to fifty. + +The temperature of the climate of Corsica varies according to the +elevation. Along the coast the sun is warm even in January. After +January the temperature rises rapidly. The climate of the zone 2000 ft. +above the sea is considerably colder and snow generally appears there in +December. The olive ripens its fruit up to an elevation of 2000 ft. and +the chestnut to 3000, where it gives place to oaks, box trees, junipers, +firs and beeches. The greater part of the population inhabits the region +of the chestnut trees, in villages scattered over the mountain slopes, +valleys and tablelands. + +[Headnote: STEAMBOATS.] + + Steamers to Corsica.--For invalids the easiest way is by the + large weekly Tunis steamer of the Compagnie Generale Transatlantique, + 12 R. de la Republique, which on its way from and to Marseilles, + touches at Ajaccio, 211 m. S., in 16 to 19 hrs., fare including + meals, 38 frs. The Compagnie Insulaire, 29 R. Cannebiere, have boats + every week for Ajaccio and Propriano, 38 frs., Calvi and Ile Rousse, + 28 frs., Bastia and Leghorn, 32 frs., and Nice, Bastia and Leghorn. + Weekly steamers between Genoa, Leghorn and Bastia. The boats of the + Compagnie Insulaire being smaller, come within a few yards of the + mole. The luggage is landed from the steamers by the company free of + expense and is delivered at the custom-house to the proprietor on + presentation of the bulletin de baggage. Passengers are taken ashore + and to their hotels for 2 frs. each. + + The Navigazione Generale Italiana, Piazza Marini, Genoa, have a + steamer every week for Portotorres, at the north-west extremity of + Sicily, calling at Bastia. Also from Leghorn to Bastia. Distance 72 + miles, fare 20 frs., time 7 hrs. + + Small steamer between Ajaccio and Propriano twice weekly. + + + + +AJACCIO. + + _Hotels._--On an eminence, in its own grounds, rising gently from + the sea, is the *Grand Hotel, with sea and fresh water baths and + every convenience; opened at the end of the present year. A skilled + English physician on the premises. + + There are besides three good family hotels, charging from 8 to 12 + frs.; in the Course Grandval, the H. Continental, wine 1-1/2 fr., + carpeted brick floors, garden; near it, with south exposure and full + view of the bay, the *H. Suisse or Schweizerhof, wine 1 fr., smooth + wood floors, partially carpeted, garden; at the top of the Course + Grandval, the H. Bellevue, wine 1-1/4 fr., partially carpeted wood + floors, garden. + + These prices include coffee or tea in the morning, meat breakfast + and dinner and service, but neither candles nor wine, of which the + lowest price per bottle is given above. In the Place Bonaparte is + the H. de France, a good French hotel, pension 8 to 12 frs. + + _Bankers and Money-changers._--The bank Bozzo-Costa and the bank + Lanzi, both near each other in the Boulevard Roi Jerome. + + The office of the Compagnie Transatlantique is in the same + Boulevard; the office of the Compagnie Insulaire is in the Place du + Marche. + + _Cabs._--The course 1-1/2 fr., the hour 2 frs., the day 25 frs. + + Tariff of return drives, with 2 frs. extra for every hour of repose. + + _West_ from Ajaccio: Scudo, 5 frs.; Vignola 1114 ft., 15 frs.; + Vignola village, 10 frs.; Lisa, 15 frs.; Iles Sanguinaires, 10 frs.; + St. Antoine, 5 frs.; Salario, 5 frs. _North_ from Ajaccio: + Castelluccio, 4 frs.; Mezzavia, 5 frs.; Alata and Col Carbinica, 25 + frs.; Afa, 20 frs. + + _East_ from Ajaccio: the Campo dell' Oro, or the plain at the mouth + of the Gravona, 5 frs.; the Baths of Caldaniccia, 5 frs.; + Bastelicaccia, 5 frs.; Pisciatella, 6 frs. Three frs. gratuity for a + whole day. The horses cover on an average about thirty miles a day. + +AJACCIO, pop. 19,050, the capital of Corsica, is situated on the +extremity of a small gulf 677 miles from Paris and 15 to 20 hours' sail +from Marseilles. Founded in 1492 by the Bank of St. George of Genoa, a +commercial association similar to the East India Company, it was raised +in 1811 through the influence of Madame Letitia and Cardinal Fesch to +the dignity of capital of the island, and became accordingly the +residence of the Prefet and the seat of the civil and ecclesiastical +Courts. Ajaccio has a handsome Episcopal chapel built by Miss Campbell, +of Moniack Castle, Scotland, an accomplished lady, the authoress of a +work on the island in French and English. + +In the Cours Napoleon is a small French mission, whose worthy pastor, +besides conducting the regular Sunday services, gives two lectures +(conferences) every week, which are attended by from 80 to 100 people. + +The houses in Ajaccio, as well as those throughout the island, are +generally built in large square blocks of from 3 to 5 stories, each +story forming a separate dwelling. + +[Map: Ajaccio] + +[Headnote: NAPOLEON'S BIRTHPLACE.] + +The mole at which passengers land from the steamers is at the foot of +the Place du Marche. In the centre of this "Place" is a fountain +ornamented with lions and a white marble statue of Napoleon I. by +Laboureur. To the left of the statue is the Hotel de Ville, the markets, +and the commencement of the Rue Fesch, in which is the edifice +containing the public library, the museum, and the memorial chapel +(p. 5); while to the right is the Rue Napoleon, in which the first +opening right leads into the Place Letitia. A little beyond this opening +is No. 17, the house of the Pozzo di Borgo family, of whom Charles +Andre, 1768-1842, was the great upholder of Paoli and the bitter enemy +of Napoleon I. Napoleon's house, though not equal to that of the Borgo +family, was one of the best in Ajaccio. It is well built, of three +stories of six windows each, and all the rooms have a more or less +handsome marble chimney-piece. Over the door is inscribed on white +marble "Napoleon est ne dans cette maison le XV Aovt MDCCLXIX". A good +staircase, bordered by a wrought-iron railing, leads to the top. The +rooms shown are on the first floor. The first is the parlour, with a +small table, a few chairs, and a piano said to have belonged to Mme. +Letitia. Then after having passed through a small chamber we enter the +room in which Napoleon was born, into which Madame was brought hurriedly +from the church in the sedan chair kept in the end room. Over the +chimney-piece are portraits of the father and mother. Then follows the +dining-room, and after it the drawing-room, with inlaid wood floor and +six windows on both sides. The floors of all the other rooms are of +glazed tiles. In the next room is the sedan chair. Fee for party 1 fr. + +This now silent and empty house was once enlivened and brightened by the +fair Letitia and her large family of children, just like other men's +children; schoolboys toiling at their Plutarch or Caesar, and their three +young sisters growing up careless and rather wild, like their +neighbours' daughters, in the half-barbarous island town. There is +Joseph, the eldest, then Napoleon, the second born, then Lucien, Louis, +and Jerome; then Caroline, Eliza, and Pauline, the children of a notary +of moderate income, who is incessantly and vainly carrying on law-suits +with the Jesuits of Ajaccio to gain a contested estate which is +necessary to his numerous family. Their future fills him with anxiety; +what will they be in the world and how will they secure a comfortable +subsistence? And behold! these same children, one after the other, take +to themselves the mightiest crowns of the earth--tear them from the +heads of the most unapproachable kings of Europe and wear them in the +sight of all the world; and they, the sons of an Ajaccio lawyer, cause +themselves to be embraced as brothers and brothers-in-law by emperors +and kings. Napoleon is European Emperor; Joseph King of Spain; Louis +King of Holland; Jerome King of Westphalia; Caroline Queen of Naples and +Pauline and Eliza Princesses of Italy. In 1793, after the flight of +Madame Letitia and her children to her country residence, the Casone, +the house was pillaged by the Corsicans opposed to the French Republic. + +[Headnote: CATHEDRAL.] + +Near the Place Letitia is the cathedral built in the 16th century by +Pope Gregory. It contains the font at which Napoleon I. was baptized on +the 21st July 1771. + +[Headnote: MEMORIAL CHAPEL.] + +In the Rue Fesch is the College founded in 1822. In one wing of the +edifice is the public library, with 33,000 volumes, founded by Lucien +Bonaparte, and the museum and picture gallery, with 900 paintings, +mostly copies; and in the other the memorial chapel built by Napoleon +III., lined with beautiful marble. In the crypt under the transept, left +hand, is the tomb of Marie Letitia Ramolino, died at Rome in 1836; and +right hand, that of Napoleon's uncle, Cardinal Fesch, died at Rome in +1839. Both bodies were brought to this, their present resting-place, in +1851. There are, besides, the tombs of Prince Charles and of Zenaida his +daughter. Napoleon's father died in 1785 and is buried at Montpellier. +Madame was only 35 at his death and had already borne him 13 children, +5 of whom were dead, and Jerome was an infant in the cradle. + +Parallel with the Rue Fesch is the Cours Napoleon, by which all the +diligences enter and leave the town. The continuation round the bay is +bordered with plane trees. At the commencement is a bronze statue of +"E. C. Abbatucci ne a Zicavo le 12 Novembre 1770, mort pour la patrie +le 2 Decembre 1796." Near it is the railway station. + +At the western end of the Cours Napoleon is the Place Bonaparte or +Diamant, bordered with trees and ornamented with a complicate bronze +monument on a granite pedestal by Violet le Duc, "a la memoire de +Napoleon I. et de ses freres Joseph, Lucien, Louis, Jerome." All are +life-size statues; Napoleon is on horseback, the others on foot, +marching solemnly towards the sea. + + +[Headnote: WALKS.] + +EXCURSIONS. + +From the port, 11 m. W., is the chapel S. Antonio, 850 ft. The road +passes the penitentiary of S. Antonio, 331 ft. North from it, under +the peak of La Barrage, 1476 feet, is the Castelluccio penitentiary. +Westward by the Hospice Eugenie and the Batterie de Maestrello, a +pleasant road leads along the coast to the orange gardens of Barbicaja, +passing by the Chapelle de Greco and the cemetery. About 4 m. farther is +the Tete Parata, 199 ft., opposite the Iles Sanguinaires. + +A beautiful road, the continuation of the Cours Grandval, ascends 2-1/2 m. +to the Fontaine du Salario, 760 ft., commanding enchanting views. This +road traverses the Place Casone, 144 ft., occupying the site of the +Casone, the country house of the Bonapartes, destroyed in 1878. Close by +is the "grotte Napoleon," composed of blocks of granite, to which, it is +said, the youthful Napoleon used to retire. + +About 6 m. N. from Ajaccio is the village of Alata, 1312 ft. Within an +easy walking distance north from Ajaccio is the pleasant estate of +Carrosaccia, on the canal which supplies the town with water from the +Gravona. 5-1/2 m. N. from Ajaccio are the sulphurous springs of +Caldaniccia. + +[Headnote: FAMILY TOMBS.] + +In the neighbourhood of Ajaccio and of the other Corsican towns and +villages are numerous family sepulchral chapels enclosed within walls. A +more pleasing characteristic feature, probably inherited from the Moors, +are the numerous fountains in the villages and by the road side, whence +flow streams of cold, sparkling water of exquisite purity. + +[Headnote: CLIMATE.] + +_Climate._--For convalescent invalids, Ajaccio forms a delightful change +from the Riviera, as it is so rural, and has such pleasant air and good +water. The hotels are comfortable and their charges moderate. As, too, +the road metal used around Ajaccio is that disintegrating granite which +so readily solidifies by the combined action of the rain and traffic, +there is very little dust in the neighbourhood (p. 9). + +The principal winds are the Libeccio or S.W. wind, the Sirocco or S.E. +wind, and the Mistral or N.W. wind. + +On the 12th, 13th and 14th of May the fair of St. Pancras is held, which +affords a good opportunity for purchasing Corsican horses. They are from +10 to 14 hands high and of great endurance. It is wonderful to behold +the energy these small slim creatures display in dragging heavy +lumbering diligences up long, steep, winding roads. + +But more wonderful still is it to see the peasant women and girls as +young as thirteen carrying on their heads up and down the mountain paths +big pails, or the more elegant two-handled brass jars of classic form, +containing about two gallons of water, without ever stumbling on any of +the many stones. The pails are made of copper lined with tin, weighing +when full of water from 55 lbs. to 65 lbs. + +Among the curiosities of Ajaccio are gourds made into bottles, of +various shapes and sizes and mounted with silver, and the pretty baskets +made of straw by the girls of Alata. + + +[Map: Environs of Ajaccio] + + +Ajaccio to Bastia. + + Ajaccio to Bocognano by rail, thence by diligence to Corte; Corte to + Bastia by rail 47 m., or 44 by road. The road from Ajaccio ascends + the valley of the Gravona to its source at the Col Vizzavona. On the + N. side of the Col it follows the course of the Vecchio. The most + picturesque part of this route is between Vizzavona and Vivario. + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to BASTIA + +{ }{95} +AJACCIO. Start from the station in the Cours Napoleon. The road, after +traversing the fertile plain of Campo dell Oro, crosses the Col +Sudricchio, 804 ft., and then the bridge of Ucciani, 948 ft., built in +the reign of Louis XIV., 17-1/2 m. from Ajaccio and 2 m. from the village +of Ucciani. Use general map, and map, p. 27. + +[Headnote: BOCOGNANO.] + +{25}{70} +BOCOGNANO, pop. 2000, and 2120 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Univers. +Picturesquely situated in a plantation of chestnut trees, surrounded by +high mountain peaks. Near Bocognano commences the Vizzavona tunnel, 4375 +yards through the mountain. Diligence now to Corte. The road, having +crossed the Sellola bridge, 2843 ft., winds its way up by the Col de +Pinzalone, 3370 ft., and the Maison and Pont de Lavatoggio 3615 ft. to +the top of the ridge. See map, p. 27. + +[Headnote: VIZZAVONA.] + +[Headnote: PINES.] + +{31}{64} +LE FORT DE VIZZAVONA, on the summit of the Pass, 3813 ft. above the sea, +with the Gendarmerie and a few houses of refuge. A few miles northwards +is Monte d'Oro, 7845 ft., and southwards Monte Renoso, 7733 ft. The +diligence, in its descent to Vivario, traverses the forest of Vizzavona, +consisting mainly of beeches and larches, frequently 150 ft. high. Of +this tree there are two varieties, the _Pinus pinaster_ or cluster pine, +the _Pin maritime_ of the French, which grows best on deep loose soils +and flourishes even on the drifting sands of the sea shore. They supply +large quantities of resin. Their wood being soft, coarse and perishable, +is usually converted into charcoal and lamp black. The other is the +_Pinus laricio_, which thrives on the high lands of Corsica, Spain, +south of France, Greece and Cyprus. Their growth is rapid, the trunk +straight and from 100 to 150 ft. high, the branches are in regular +whorls, forming in large trees a pyramidal head, and the leaves are +slender, from 4 to 7 inches long, and of a dark green tint. The timber +is good and durable, though less strong than that of the _Pinus +silvestris_. Between the 51st and 53d kilometre stones are passed the +"Maison de Refuge d'Alzarella," and the "Maison de refuge Omellina," +2832 ft. + +After crossing the Col de Campo di Lupo, 2684 ft., 35 m. from Ajaccio, +the road descends into the ravine of the Vecchio, above which is + +[Headnote: VIVARIO.] + +{38}{57} +VIVARIO, pop. 1500, and 2152 ft. _Inn:_ H. Voyageurs a three-storied +house. Junction with road to Zicavo, 37 m. S. (pp. 27,29). Although +Vivario be a poor village, yet it has a terrace and fountain ornamented +with a statue of Diana. The breeding of pigs fed in the adjoining +chestnut forest, and the manufacture of hams, sausages and bacon, are +the most important industries of the inhabitants. + + From Vivario a forest road extends 27 m. S.E. to the hamlet of + Vadina, by Muracciole 2022 ft., 1-1/2 m., the Col Erbajo 3018 ft., + 7 m.; Pietroso 10-1/2 m., Saparelli 12-1/2 m., and Quinzena 18 m. From + Vadina a good carriage road leads 6 m. to the Baths of Pietrapola, + which are supplied by most copious springs of hot, saline, + sulphurous water. The season is from May 1 to June 30; or + September 1 to November 30. The situation is beautiful and the + bathing-establishment and lodging accommodation comfortable, and + much frequented. + +The road from Vivario to Serraggio passes along the top of the rocky +gorge of the foaming Vecchio. The best view of the gorge is from the +Pont du Vecchio 40 m. from Ajaccio and 280 ft. above the bed. From +Serraggio, 1890 ft., Mt d'Oro is well seen. See map, p. 20. + +The road now passes Lugo, 1980 ft.; S. Pietro, 2496 ft.; the Col. S. +Nicolo, 2473 ft.; and Casanova, 2136 ft., to + +[Headnote: CORTE.] + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to BASTIA + +{51}{44} +CORTE, 1329 ft., pop. 5500. _Hotels:_ *Paoli, 8 to 10 frs., Europe. Is +situated at the junction of the Tavignano with the Restonico, in the +midst of majestic mountains of the most varied form. The citadel or +chateau, built in the early part of the 15th century, stands on +precipitous and jagged rocks rising from the Tavignano, commanding from +the top a magnificent view of the wild surrounding scenery. In the +"Place" is a statue of Paoli, the Corsican patriot, born at Stretta in +1726, and to the right of the statue the post and telegraph office. In +the immediate neighbourhood stands a large house, a Franciscan convent, +in which the Corsican parliament assembled in Paoli's time. Near Corte, +by the left side of the Restonico, is a quarry of marble of a bluish +tint with reddish white veins. To take the walk up the gorge of the +Restonico, descend by first road left up the main street from the hotels +and cross only the Tavignano bridge. The mountain appearing to close the +valley is Mte. Rotondo. See map, p. 20. + +Coach to Aleria, 31 m. S.E. (p. 33), by a beautiful road. + +Just outside Corte the rail traverses the Torretta tunnel, 1531 yards. + +[Headnote: MTE. ROTONDO.] + + From Corte the ascent of Monte Rotondo is most easily effected. It + is 8613 feet above the sea-level, or 7284 feet above Corte. Cabins + inhabited by the herdsmen are scattered over the declivities of the + mountain up to within 3000 feet of the top. Time 2 days. Guide with + mule 25 frs. Ascend by the road up the picturesque valley of the + Restonico to the Timozzo bridge, 3590 feet, and 2-1/2 hours from Corte. + From this the path extends 1-1/2 hour up the wild ravine of the Timozzo + to the shepherds' huts; whence the rest must be done on foot. Now + the hard work commences. Block lies above block, towering upwards + and upwards in such endless masses of monotonous gray that the heart + quails with the sight and the foot trembles to go farther. After + about 2 hours' scramble over these colossal steps the traveller + reaches the fontaine de Triggione, about 2200 feet below the summit + and in full view of it, an incomplete circle of steep jagged cliffs. + About 330 feet higher is a little dark lake, the Lago di Monte + Rotondo, encircled by gentle green slopes, where the night is + generally spent. Snow-field extend from the lake to the summit, + which, although apparently near, requires 2 full hours' climbing to + reach, often on hands and feet, over sharp fragments of rock, or up + steep beds of slippery frozen snow. The extreme peak is a rugged + obelisk of gray rock ending in a pinnacle. A way leads down by the + S. side in 6 hours, to Guagno by lake Bettianella, 3419 ft., then W. + by the road over the Col de Manganella, 5874 ft. See map, p. 20. + +[Headnote: GRANITE.] + + "The view from Monte Rotondo did not impress me. The central + uplands, which form a large portion of it, are bare and arid, while + the great ridge of Monte Cinto stretches across the northern horizon + like a long screen. Comparatively little of the coast is seen in any + direction, but most towards the west. It was curious to notice how + completely the tops of the mountains between us and the Cinto ridge + were flattened down, while the crest on which we stood was a set of + bristling teeth. There are two kinds of granite in Corsica, one + friable and unable to resist the action of the air, the other hard + and defiant of the elements. Of this latter consist the Cinto range, + Monte Rotondo and the rocks in the forest of Bavella."--D. W. + Freshfield, Alpine Club. + +The road now from Corte to Bastia traverses the Quilico Col, 1932 ft., +passes Soveria, 1843 ft., and Caporalino, 8 m. from Corte, 36 from +Bastia and 1 m. from Omessa. About 1-1/2 m. farther it crosses the Golo by +the Francardo bridge, 856 ft., where it meets the great Forest Road from +Porto, 50 m. S.W. by Evisa and the Col de Vergio, p. 18, and map, p. 20. + +[Headnote: PONTE LECCIA.] + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to BASTIA + +{66}{29} +PONTE ALLA LECCIA, 624 ft. Village, and coach and railway station. +_Inn:_ Cyrnoz. Diligence to Calvi by the beautiful northern continuation +of the road from Prunete by Cervione and Piedicroce, p. 20. "Courrier" +daily to Piedicroce, 18 m. S.E. by Morosaglia, see p. 34. During the +summer heats Ponte alla Leccia is considered insalubrious. + +[Headnote: PONTE NOVO.] + +{71}{24} +PONTE NOVO. The site of the disastrous battle fought on the 9th of May +1769, when the Corsicans lost their independence and became subject to +France. The two small houses on the right bank, a little farther down +the river, were Paoli's headquarters. One month afterwards he, with some +other Corsican refugees, sailed from Porto Vecchio in a British vessel +for England (p. 39). + +[Headnote: BORGO.] + +{85}{10} +BORGO, pop. 820. On the Mariana hills, rising from Lake Biguglia, one of +the many lagoons on the eastern coast, separated from the sea by narrow +sandbanks. Along this coast extend the only large plains in Corsica. +Unfortunately, in summer they are subject to malaria, which, however, a +judicious system of drainage is gradually abating. They are cultivated +by Italian labourers who visit the island periodically. Between Borgo +and Bastia is Bevinco, with valuable marble quarries. Southward from +Borgo on the coast is Mariana, the site of the colony founded by Marius +(p. 34). + +[Headnote: BASTIA.] + +{95} +BASTIA, pop. 21,000. _Hotels:_ *France; Europe; Lingenieur; Croix de +Malte over the post and telegraph office, all in the Boul. du Palais, 8 +to 10 frs. Theatre; Public Library with 65,000 volumes. Steamers twice a +week to Marseilles, time 18 hours, touching once a week at Nice, 12 +hours distant. Fare direct to Marseilles, including food, 28 frs. To +Nice, without food, 30 frs. Rubattino's steamers leave three times a +week for Leghorn; time 6 hours. These same steamers proceed afterwards +to Genoa. Railway to Corte. Rail also to Aleria, whence diligence to +Bonifacio, Sartene and Ajaccio. + +Diligences daily from Bastia to Cap Corse, 7 hours, 6 or 5 frs.; and +also to Calvi, 12 hours, 13 or 10 frs. + +[Headnote: BRANDO.] + +Carriages to visit the stalactite cave at Brando, 10 frs. Admission 2 +frs. each. It is 7 m. from Bastia, above Erbalunga, on the face of a +mountain; and was discovered in 1841 by M. Ferdinandi. A steep path +leads up to it. Keeper near cave. See p. 12. + +_Bastia_, the most important city of Corsica, is built on ground rising +gently from the sea. Facing the sea and the principal harbour is the +Place St. Nicholas, adorned with a marble statue of Napoleon I., by +Bartolini, looking towards the island of Elba. In this "Place", the +promenade of the town, are the offices of the Messageries Maritimes and +of the Compagnie Insulaire. Fraissinet's office is at the old harbour; +whence also their steamers sail. + +From the Place St. Nicholas ascends the principal street, the Boulevard +du Palais, to the Palais de Justice. In this Boulevard are the post and +telegraph offices (whence most of the diligences start), the hotels, +cafes and the best shops, and from it ramify the streets of the town. At +the top of the B. du Palais commences, right hand, the Boul. Cardo, one +of the best roads to take for views of the town and neighbourhood. A +flight of steps leads from the quay up to the cathedral, a handsome +building in the Italian style. The markets are held in the "Place" +fronting the cathedral. Most of the houses are built in large blocks +from 5 to 6 stories high and from 6 to 9 windows broad, each story +forming a separate residence. + +Bastia owes its name to the bastion built here by the Genoese in the +14th century. From the hills behind Bastia the view embraces the islands +of Gorgona, Capraja, Elba, and Monte-Christo, seen best from the top of +the Serra di Pigno, 3640 feet. Refer to map on fly-leaf. + +[Headnote: STEAMERS.] + +The most beautiful part of Corsica, and the most easily visited, is the +eastern side, including the Castagniccia or the chestnut country, and +the whole region up in the mountains, which border this coast. The +wealthiest, most industrious and most enterprising of the people are +those who inhabit that long narrow tongue of land called Cap Corse. +Although boats are constantly sailing from Marseilles and Leghorn to +Bastia, invalids visiting Corsica with the intention of wintering in +Ajaccio should, if possible, sail from Marseilles or Nice direct to +Ajaccio; but on leaving the island, when winter is over, Bastia is +perhaps the best port to sail from, as it affords an excellent +opportunity for visiting the most beautiful parts of Corsica and the +most important towns in Italy. On arriving at Leghorn (see Black's +_South France_) it is best to proceed at once to the railway station, +and start for Pisa, only 30 minutes distant. There are numerous trains. +At the station and in the kiosques in the "Piazzas" of Leghorn, is sold +an excellent little book with all the railway Time-tables, _L'Indicatore +Ufficiale_, price 50 c. + + +[Headnote: CAP CORSE.--WINE.] + +CAP CORSE. + +Bastia to Rogliano and Morsaglia. + +See General Map, p. 1. + +By diligence, fare to Rogliano, 4 frs. and 3 frs., distance 27-1/2 m., 6 +hrs. To Morsaglia, 5-1/2 and 4-1/2 frs., distance 37-1/2 m., 8 hrs. By +the road skirting the eastern side of the peninsula of Cap Corse, the best +cultivated part of the island, and containing the tidiest villages. The +best Cap Corse wine, mostly white, is produced around Luri and Rogliano. +The quality used as table wine is drunk the first year. It improves till +the fifth year, the better qualities till the tenth and twentieth year. +Cap Corse is traversed by a rugged mountain range or serra, of which the +culminating peaks are Mount Alticcione, 4230 feet; Mount Stello, 4536 +feet; and the Serra de Pigno, 3640 feet. From the east side of this +rugged serra little fertile valleys extend to the sea. + +[Headnote: PINO.--LURI.] + + Mr. Freshfield thus describes the "Cap":--"Down a promontory 8 to + 10 m. wide runs a range 3000 to 4000 ft. high, with the crest towards + the western coast and the valleys towards the eastern. Hence the + western Cornice road is a terrace along an always steep, sometimes + sheer, mountain side, while the eastern crosses a succession of low + maquis-covered spurs, which beyond Cap Sagro flatten and become + monotonous. Pino is one of the most beautiful sites on the western + coast. It is also important as the spot where the cross-road through + the vale of Luri, under Seneca's tower, falls into the western + Cornice. Half-way on this road the village of Luri groups itself in + the most picturesque way imaginable on a hill-side broken by a deep + ravine. Down on the seashore above the little Marina or port is a + large convent; a church occupies a projecting brow 200 ft. above it; + higher still, and right and left, every vantage-ground is occupied + by groups of well-built villas and sepulchral chapels. The slopes + are terraced into orchards of citron, lemon, peach and almond trees, + olive groves and vineyards, sheltered from the gales of winter by + high palisades." + + Farther south, 5-1/4 m., is Nonza, with inn, 479 ft., pop. 550. Coach + to St. Florent. This is one of the most curious villages of the + island. It stands like an eagle's nest, perched above the sea on a + black rock on the mountain side. Its houses, built level with the + edge of the cliffs, formed in olden days a sufficient rampart + against marauders. + +The diligence having passed Lavasina 4-1/2 m. from Bastia, Brando 7 m., +and Erbalunga 6-1/4 m., halts at Sisco-port 9-1/4 m. To visit the cave of +Brando take the steep narrow path left, near a mill, just before arriving +at Erbalunga. Seats in shady places are placed here and there. The +keeper's house is close to the entrance. The diligence then proceeds by +Pietracorbara 11-1/2 m., and the Torre all'Osse 13 m.; one of the best +remaining specimens of the 85 towers built by the Pisans and Genoese to +ward off the attacks of the Saracens. From the Torre the diligence +proceeds other 2 m. to Perticciolo, where it halts. + +[Headnote: SENECA'S TOWER.] + +Two miles farther is S. Severa, where the horses are changed and the +passengers breakfast. From S. Severa, a road ramifies 10 m. W. to Pino +on the other side of the peninsula by the valley of the Luri, with +vineyards and orange groves, passing the village of Luri 3-1/2 m., with +good inn, the Col de S. Lucie 7 m., 1363 ft., and Saronese 9-3/4 m. From +the Santa Severa inn, Seneca's tower is distinctly seen, at the head of +the valley, on the summit of a precipitous peak, rising from the S. side +of the Col, 1355 ft., from which a steep, stony path leads up to it, by +a forsaken Franciscan convent. The view is grand. To this tower, one of +the many watch-towers built in the 12th cent., Seneca could never have +been sent, but to the Roman colony of Mariana, then used as a place of +banishment for political offenders. + +[Headnote: SENECA.] + +Lucius Annaeus Seneca was born at Cordova in Spain, just before the +commencement of the Christian era. His eldest brother was A. Seneca +Novatus, which name was altered afterwards to that of his adopted +father, Junius Gallio. This brother was the proconsul of Achaia, before +whom St. Paul was arraigned (Acts xviii. 12). While Seneca was still a +child he was brought by his aunt to Rome, where he had for teachers +Sotion, Papirius Fabianus and Attalus the Stoic. Although weak in body +he was a most diligent student, which, joined to his powerful memory, +enabled him to obtain at an early age important offices. Before his +banishment, A.D. 41, he had already served as quaestor. Having irritated +Caligula, he would have been put to death, had not one of the mistresses +of the emperor assured him that it was not worth while, as Seneca was so +consumptive he would soon die a natural death. + +In the first year of the reign of Claudius, his wife Messalina having +become jealous of the influence his niece Julia, daughter of Germanicus, +had over Claudius her husband, succeeded in getting rid of her by +imputing to her improper intimacy with Seneca, then a married man. For +that reason Seneca was banished to Corsica A.D. 41. + +During his exile he wrote his consolatory letter to his mother Helvia, +as well as a panegyric on Messalina and a consolatory letter to +Polybius, ostensibly to condole with him on the loss of his brother; but +in reality to get that powerful freedman to exert his influence with the +emperor, to recall his sentence of exile. This letter is full of fulsome +flattery and expressions unworthy of an honest man. + +After the death of Messalina, Claudius married his niece Agrippina, +sister of Julia and mother of Nero by a former husband. Through her +influence Seneca was recalled A.D. 49 and appointed a praetor and tutor +to Nero, then 11 years old. In A.D. 51 Agrippina poisoned her husband. + + +[Headnote: MACINAGGIO.--ROGLIANO.] + +From S. Severa, the diligence, resuming its journey, passes Meria +20-1/2 m., and halts again at the port of Macinaggio 2-1/2 m. more. From +this commences the steep ascent up to Rogliano 1300 ft., a town built in +groups on the side of the mountain, among vineyards and olive and +chestnut trees, the inn being in the second highest group, near the +post-office. After Rogliano the diligence crosses the Cols S. Anne, +Cappiaja and S. Nicholas, and arrives at Botticella 31 m., and then +proceeds to Ersa with inn, near the top of the Col de Serra 1182 ft., +commanding a good view of Cap Corse. Shortly afterwards the diligence +arrives at Morsaglia, called also Pecorile, a village composed of groups +of houses like Rogliano on the side of a hill. The conductor of the +diligence will show the hotel. Six miles S. from Morsaglia is Pino, see +p. 12. + +[Headnote: BOTTICELLA.] + +From Botticella a road leads 4-1/2 m. N. to Barcaggio, opposite the +island of Giraglia, on which is a first-class lighthouse, 269 feet +above the sea, seen within a radius of 14 m. + +From Morsaglia the road is continued 31 m. farther to the Col S. +Bernardino on the Bastia and St. Florent road, passing Pino, 25 m. from +the Col S. Bernardino; Minerbio, 21-1/2 m.; Marinca, 16 m.; Nonza, 9 m.; +Farinole, 2-1/2 m.; Pont du Patrimonio, 1-1/4 m.; and joins the Bastia +road at the Col S. Bernardino, 11-1/4 m. W. from Bastia. + + +Bastia to Calvi. + +57 miles west; time 12 hours; fare 13 and 10 frs. + +[Headnote: COL TEGHIME.] + + miles from BASTIA + miles to CALVI + +{ }{57} +BASTIA. The road traverses a mountainous country, with scanty +vegetation. As far as St. Florent the prevailing rocks are micaceous and +beyond granitic. Immediately after leaving Bastia the diligence +commences the ascent of the Col de Teghime (1785 feet) in the Serra di +Pigno, discovering as it winds its way upwards, an ever-extending +panorama over the great eastern plain, including Lake Biguglia, and the +Mediterranean with the islands of Elba, Gorgona and Monte Christo. As +the road descends towards the western shore, the enchanting panorama of +the blue gulf of St. Florent, encircled by low reddish rocks, gradually +unfolds itself. It was at this road, made by Count Marboeuf, at which, +it is said, King Bernadotte worked among the other labourers. It passes +the hamlets of Barbaggio and Patrimonio, the Col St. Bernardino 11-1/4 m. +from Bastia, and the Pont des Strette, and enters the valley of Nebbio, +partly watered by the sluggish Aliso, flowing through a marsh crowded +with oleanders. + +[Headnote: ST. FLORENT.] + +{14-1/4}{42-3/4} +ST. FLORENT, pop. 760. Hotel de l'Europe, where a hurried breakfast can +be had while the horses are being changed. Close to the village is the +site of the ancient town of Nebbio, occupied now by a few poor houses +and a small church, now a ruin, built in the 12th century. Napoleon +said, "St. Florent has one of the finest situations I have ever seen. It +lies most favourably for commerce, its landing places are safe and its +roads can accommodate large fleets. I should have built there a large +and beautiful city." It was one of the first places to give adherence to +the Bank of Genoa. + +The road now for some distance leaves the shore and ascends a range of +barren hills containing slate, limestone and granite. Hardy trees become +more abundant than the chestnut, and the mountains higher and more +imposing, as we approach the little port of + +[Headnote: L'ILE ROUSSE.] + +{42}{15} +L'ILE ROUSSE, pop. 1610; Hotel Europe. The diligence stops in the +"Place" near the monument to Pascal Paoli, and remains a sufficient time +to enable the traveller to cast a glance over the main features of this +port, founded by Paoli in 1759. The street beyond the "Place" leads by +the market to the harbour and to the long jagged tongue of red sandstone +rocks projecting into the sea, bearing on the extreme point a lighthouse +of the fourth order. Steamer every alternate week to Marseilles. There +is a charming view from the eminence St. Reparata, crowned with a +church, now abandoned. + +Inland from L'Ile Rousse is the fertile valley of Balagna, famous for +the size and fertility of its olive trees (p. 20). + +{47}{10} +ALGAJOLA, pop. 200. The block of granite which forms the pedestal of the +column in the Place Vendome came from the quarries of this place. +Pillars 65 feet long can be procured from this quarry. + +[Headnote: LUMIO.] + +{51}{6} +LUMIO, pop. 1100, among orange groves and high cactus hedges. From the +hills here there is a beautiful view of the valley and gulf of Calvi. +Junction here with road to Corte, 55-1/2 miles, south-east, passing through +a charming and picturesque country (see p. 20). + +[Headnote: CALVI.] + +{57} +CALVI, pop. 2200. _Inns:_ H. France, in the high town; *Colombani, in +the low town, near the dil. office and the wharf. Steamer for Marseilles +every alternate week. This, the nearest port to France, is composed of +the Citadel or Haute Ville and the Port or Basse Ville. The former, +although the residence of the public functionaries, has a dilapidated +and forsaken appearance. A rough road, paved with blocks of granite, +leads up to it and to the ramparts, commanding beautiful and extensive +views. The houses, shops and streets of the Basse Ville are much better +and more cheerful than those in the Citadel. Both are defended by Fort +Mozzello, rising behind the harbour. On the Punta-Revellata is a +lighthouse of the first order, with a fixed light seen 20 miles off. +Eight miles S.E. from Calvi is Calenzana, pop. 2900, with the chapel of +S. Restituta, visited by pilgrims. + + +Calvi to Ajaccio. + + miles from CALVI + miles to AJACCIO + +{ }{102} +Distance 102 miles S.E. The road skirts the coast the greater part of +the way. The first village is Galeria, pop. 500--_Inn:_ Seta, 21 miles +S. from Calvi. From Galeria the Route Forestiere, No. 8, extends 16 +miles eastwards to the Col Capronale, 4495 feet, in the forest of Ometa. +Six miles from Galeria is the entrance to the forest of evergreen oaks +of Treccio, as well as the commencement of the road, 4-1/2 m. long, to the +forest of Perticato by the Col Erbajo, 3-1/2 m., 2090 ft., and the Bocca +Melza, 4-1/2 m. 2500 ft. + + +Galeria to the Forests of Filosorma. + +Grand scenery. Guide necessary. Map, p. 20. + + This, the forest road No. 8, has two ramifications. The main line + follows the course of the Fango the whole way, and only becomes a + mule-path when near the Maison de Cantonniers d'Ometa, 14 m. E. + + 3-3/4 m. from Galeria a mule-path ramifies from the road to the hamlets + of Tuarelli, Prunicciole and Chiorna. 3 m. farther is the + ramification, 4-1/2 m. S., through the forest of Perticato by the Col + d'Erbajo, 2090 ft., 3-1/2 m. S., and the Bocca Melza, 2500 ft., 4-1/2 m. + S. From the Bocca Melza a very bad path leads 2 m. S. to the hamlet of + Pinito. At the beginning of the above ramification the main road + enters the Ilex forest of Treccio, and leaves it nearly 2 m. + afterwards. + + 8-3/4 m. from Galeria is a roadside inn, and 3-1/4 m. farther the + entrance into the Ilex forest of Ometa. + + 11-1/4 m. from Galeria and about 2 m. from the almost unknown valley of + the Lonca, an affluent of the Porto, is the Pont de Lancone, 1083 + ft., across the Rocce. From this bridge there is a good view of Mt. + Tafonato, 7687 ft., to the N. E., with its singularly perforated + peak. + + 13-1/4 m. is the Grand Cassis d'Ometa, 1680 ft. A little farther the + road becomes a bridle-path, and ascends from 1677 ft. to the Maison + de Cantonniers d'Ometa, 2274 ft., and 1 m. farther is the end of the + forest of Ometa. + + 15 m. from Galeria is the Grand Cassis de Giargione, 1163 ft., and + about 2 m. farther the summit of Col Capronale, 4495 ft. A little + way beyond, at the Capo Guagnerola, is a beautiful semicircle of + reddish rocks covered with trees at the base. Farther E. by the Golo + this forest road joins the forest road No. 9 to Francardo (p. 18). + + Having crossed the Col de Castellaccio, 850 feet, and passed through + the villages of Partinello and Vitriccia, 20 m. from Galeria, we + arrive at + + miles from CALVI + miles to AJACCIO + +{51}{51} +PORTO (_Inn:_ H. Padoram), occupying a pleasant and sheltered situation +at the head of a fine gulf, with a climate rivalling that of Ajaccio. +Most of the timber from the forests of Valdoniello and Perticato is +shipped here. For Porto to Ponte Francardo, see p. 18. + + The road from Porto to La Piana (map, p. 20) affords a delightful + drive, and exhibits good engineering. It is cut for a considerable + distance through the rocks and cliffs and tall jagged peaks, like + cypresses turned into stone, standing on the edge of this savage + coast, parts of which are truly splendid. As the ascent is slowly + continued, charming views disclose themselves, and on each side of + the road the eye discerns some new beauty to dwell upon. At the Col + Geneparo, to the right are the ruins of the castle of the Colonnas + di Leca, rising boldly above the sea and surrounded and protected by + magnificent natural battlements and pinnacles. Six miles from Porto, + after having passed the Cols of Geneparo and Mezzano, both about + 1250 feet, the traveller reaches + +[Headnote: LA PIANA.] + + miles from CALVI + miles to AJACCIO + +{58}{44} +LA PIANA, 1587 feet, pop. 1280. _Inn:_ H. France. Delightfully situated, +with a fine sea-view. From the Col San Martino, 1 m. from La Piana and +1630 feet above the sea, the landscape undergoes a rapid change. The +magnificent rocks become parched and arid and the grass as yellow as the +soil where it tries to grow. + +[Headnote: CARGESE.] + +{70}{32} +CARGESE, pop. 1100. _Inn:_ H. de Voyageurs. A large village at the foot +of a hill which slopes down to the sea. It was founded by a colony of +730 Greeks, who, fleeing from the oppression of the Turks, arrived and +settled here, by the permission of the Genoese, in March 1676. For +having refused to aid Paoli in 1755 against the Genoese their villages +were burnt to the ground, and they themselves had to seek refuge in +Ajaccio. After the cession of Corsica to the French in 1769 M. de +Marboeuf had the village and church of Cargese built for the colonists, +when they all returned. Greek is still spoken in the village, and it has +a Greek as well as a Romanist priest. + +[Headnote: SAGONA.] + +{79}{23} +SAGONA, pop. 100. The port of Vico. It contains a few houses, one of +which is the inn, where beds, bread, eggs, coffee and wine can be had. +On the beach are generally large logs brought down from the forests for +shipment. Junction with road to Vico 9-1/4 miles E. (see p. 23), and also +with the road extending 19 miles E. to the forest of Aitone, passing by +the Col Vico, 7-1/2 m., 1607 ft.; Poggio, 12-1/2 m.; the Col Sevi, 3612 +ft., 13-1/4 m.; Cristinacce, 16-1/2 m.; and the Col Lacciola, 3040 ft. in +the forest. Five and a half miles from Sagona are the cold sulphurous +springs of Caldanella; efficacious as a tonic. + +{87-1/2}{14-1/2} +CALCATOGGIO, pop. 670. A poor village on a hill above the road. From +this the diligence shortly after commences the ascent of the Col +Sebastien, 1344 feet, 12 miles from Ajaccio. After the Col Sebastien, +the road having passed over the Col Staggiola, 930 feet, within a short +distance of Appietto, situated on a hill; reaches + +AJACCIO, 102 miles south-west from Calvi. + + +Porto to the Ponte Francardo. + +50 miles north-east. Map, p. 20. + + This important forest road traverses the region of the highest + mountains and of the greatest forests, passes through Albertacce, + and by the other villages of the Canton of Calacuccia, and then + proceeds to Francardo by the defile of the Golo. + + Porto to Evisa, 13-3/4 m., by an excellent carriage road wending + through most picturesque mountain scenery. The road, after following + the course of the Porto, crosses the stream Onda, ascends the ravine + of the Cario, which it crosses 3 m. from Porto under the Capo + Polmonaccia, 5627 ft. It now winds its way round little valleys into + the narrow gorge of the Porto between dark red cliffs crowned with + pinnacles. Nine m. from Porto is the ramification of the mule-path + to Chidazzo, and 1/2 m. farther the ramification to Marignano. The + road, after passing the chapelle S. Cyprien, enters Evisa, pop. + 1000; _Inn:_ *H. Carrara; 2770 ft., on a high promontory projecting + in the centre of a mountain-girt basin from the central range + between two deep gulfs hollowed out to a depth of 2000 ft. Behind it + rise pine forests to a broad mountain crest, the pass of the Niolo. + + Evisa is admirably situated for excursions. A difficult winding path + leads in 2-1/2 hours down to the great walls of the dark granite ravine + called the Spelunca, at the confluence of the Aitone with the Porto. + Rambles and drives into the forest of Aitone, from which + unfortunately the old stately pines have disappeared. + + Evisa to Albertacce, 18 m. E. The road traverses the forest of + Aitone with its vigorous beeches and young pines (_Pinus laricio_), + whose stems are clear of branches from 80 to 100 ft. It is watered + by the Porto and numerous brawling streams; which rush down steep + ravines covered with moss and ferns. In the forest, 3 m. from Evisa, + by this road, is the Maison forestiere d'Aitone, where those + provided with introductions, see p. 41, will find pleasant + headquarters for grand excursions and fishing and botanical + expeditions. 1-1/4 m. farther is the house of the road menders + (Cantonniers) of Tagnone; where lodging can also be had. + + The road having made several detours to get round the heads of + ravines, ascends the Col de Vergio 4803 ft. on the great mountain + chain separating the valley of the Golo from the valley of the + Porto. About 230 ft. above the Col on the Cricche ridge, a little to + the W., is an admirable view of Mt. Tafonato, 7687 ft., almost due + N., with a strange natural tunnel through the summit. From Mt. + Cuculla, 6733 ft., nearly 1-3/4 hours W. from the Col is a still better + view of Tafonato, and besides a sight of Mt. Cinto, the valley of + the Golo and the mountain range of Monte Rotondo. A little beyond + the summit of the Col is the Maison de Cantonniers de Castellaccio, + whence there is a good view of the forest of Valdoniello, 11,483 + acres, containing besides many large pines very fine specimens of + beeches, birches and alders. The felling of the trees in this forest + commenced in 1863. + + After arriving at the Maison forestiere de Sciattarina 10-1/2 m. from + Evisa, the road passes by some of the finest trees, and descends + into the valley of the Golo; which has its source in a ravine + between Mts. Tafonato and Paglia-Orba. + + Four and a half miles farther is the Maison forestiere de Popaja, + 3468 ft., 15 m. from Evisa and 3 m. from Albertacce. Either this + house or the former, make good quarters for exploring the forest. + + Two miles farther is the Ponte Alto, 2740 ft.; where the road + crosses the Golo and enters the pastoral country of the Niolo; now + called the canton of Calacuccia, comprehending the villages of + Albertacce, Calacuccia, Corscia, Lozzi, and Casamaccioli. + + From near the bridge a mule path of 1-3/4 m. ascends to Casamaccioli, + 2780 ft., pop. 550; whence the continuation leads in 7 hours to + Corte by the Bocca la Croce, the Melo forest, and the valley of the + Tavignano. + +[Headnote: ALBERTACCE.--MONTE CINTO.] + + Albertacce, 18 m. from Evisa, 2845 ft., pop. 1000, a dirty village + amidst chestnut and walnut trees; where a good deal of coarse linen + and Corsican cloth is woven. It is one of the places whence the + ascent is made of Monte Cinto, 8892 ft., in 7 hours, and in about 6 + for the descent. The path ascends by Calasima, 3610 ft., to the + height of 5251 ft. After this the course extends almost horizontally + in a western direction across ridges, ascending by gradations more + or less fatiguing. + + When about 7720 ft., and having climbed nearly 6 hours, a cave is + passed where shelter can be had. The remainder of the ascent is + comparatively easy. The view is grand, Monte Falo, 8363 ft., being + the most prominent object. The ascent cannot be made till the + beginning of summer on account of the snow. + +[Headnote: LAKE NINO.] + + To Lake Nino, 5598 ft., the source of the Tavignano in 5 hours. + From the lake a mule path chiefly by the left bank of the Tavignano, + leads in 6-1/2 hours to Corte, through magnificent forests. + + Around the lake are some shepherds huts; where rest and refreshment + can be had, but no further supply of food can be counted on between + the lake and Corte. The lake, full of fish, lies in a hollow between + high mountains, the highest being Mt. Retto, 6592 at the western + end. + + Albertacce to Ponte Francardo, 18 m. N.E. The road follows the + Golo. To the left, a road 1-1/4 m., leads up to Lozzi, pop. 1050. + 2-1/2 m. from Albertacce is Calacuccia, 2779 ft. pop. 860, and 2 m. + farther, another byeroad ascends to Corscia, 2913 ft., pop. 1000, + about 5 hours walk S. from Asco, whence also Mt. Cinto may be + ascended by the valley of the Asco called also Stranciacone. Asco is + 5 hours from Olmi Capella by the Stranciacone, its affluent the + Tassinella, and the Col de Petrella, 6440 ft., to the S. of Mt. + Corona, 7032 ft. + + Near the chapel of S. Pancrazio, 2786 ft., 4 m. from Albertacce is + the commencement of the Scala di Santa Regina, as this part of road + is called, cut in the face of perpendicular cliffs rising from the + bed of the Golo. About half way are the small chapel and inn of + Santa Regina, and the cave which in former times used to be the + stronghold of robbers. + + Thirteen miles from Albertacce is the Pont du Diable, 1083 ft., + where four roads meet. The road southwards or to the right leads to + Corte, 7 m. S. by Castirla and Soveria, and the Col of Oninanda, + 2155 ft., between cliffs rising 1720 ft. above it. + +[Headnote: ASCO.] + + The road leading northwards extends to the beautiful highway between + Ponte alla Leccia and Calvi; by Castiglione 3-1/4 m., pop. 550, at the + foot of Mt. Traunato, 7186 ft., Popolasca, 7 m., pop. 200, with + beautiful red granite pinnacles, and Moltifao 12 m., pop. 1050, with + Inn, consisting of a group of villages, clustered on the slopes of + the ridge which separate the valley of the Tartagine from the Asco. + The byeroad S.W. from Moltifao leads up the highly picturesque + valley of the Asco, with magnificent forest trees, to the village of + Asco, pop. 950, a group of hamlets seldom visited, although one of + the best points from which to make the ascent of Mt. Cinto. + + [Headnote: PONTE FRANCARDO.] + + The road leading 5 m. N.E. by the Golo extends to the Ponte + Francardo, where the rail may be taken. See p. 9 and General Map. + + +Calvi to Corte or to Bastia. + +See General Map. + + By Ponte alla Leccia. The finest part of the road is between Calvi + and the Col Colombano. "If I were to permit myself to dwell in + detail on the exquisite variety and charm of the drive, especially + after quitting the _route forestiere_ a little E. of the hamlet of + Palasca, I should wander far from the main purpose of this paper. + Valery, Gregorovius, Lear and others have done justice to its + wonderful beauty, and the last truly remarks that 'those who visit + Corsica without going through upper Balagne remain ignorant of one + of its finest divisions,' adding, 'no description can exaggerate the + beauty of this remarkable tract of mountain background and deep + valley, which for richness of foreground, cheerful fertility and + elegance of distance may compete with most Italian landscapes.' The + district is densely peopled--at least twelve large villages are + situated on the road itself between Belgodere and Lumio, a distance + of 21 miles--and picturesque hamlets with lofty campanili perch high + up on the mountain slopes or crown the summits of the lower hills, + whilst everywhere there is the richest culture and most varied + produce, and the charm of the picture is completed by continually + varying views over 'bowery hollows crowned with summer sea.'"--F. F. + Tuckett, Alpine Club. + +[Headnote: THE OLIVE TREE.] + + miles from CALVI + miles to CORTE + +{ }{61} +CALVI. The road skirts the coast as far as Lumio, 6 m. from Calvi, +whence it commences to ascend gradually by an admirably engineered road +round the undulations of olive-clad mountains, disclosing at every turn +a different view of the fertile valley of Balagna, extending from the +distant mountains to the blue waters of the Mediterranean. It is said +that there is no district throughout the whole of Italy where the olive +attains such a size as in this valley. Of the tree there are three +varieties, the Sabine (_Sabinacci_), the Saracen (_Saraceni_), and the +Genoese (_Genovesi_), the most common of all, and is ascribed to the +Genoese, who during the government of Agostino Doria compelled the +Corsicans to plant olives in great numbers. + +[Map: Corsica Western Central Region] + +After passing the picturesquely situated village of Lavatoggio, 9 m.; +the Col Cesario, 1200 ft., 10-1/2 m.; the villages of Feliceto, inn, pop. +640, 16-1/4 m.; Castor, 24 m.; Speloncato; Ville di Paraso, pop. 750; +Occhiatana, and many more perched on the surrounding mountain tops, or +nestling in nooks among olive and chestnut trees, the diligence arrives +at + +[Headnote: BELGODERE.] + +{26-3/4}{34-1/4} +BELGODERE, 1017 feet, pop. 950, commanding the finest view of this +beautiful valley, its orchards, fields and mountains undulating towards +the blue sea. The diligence just remains long enough to give time to run +through the gate and up the narrow dirty street to the top of the rock +on which the houses are clustered, and there to take a rapid glance at +the lovely scene around and underneath. After the gate, the diligence +halts at the post-office, and then moves on a few yards towards the +stables, where the horses are changed. + +FOREST ROAD FROM BELGODERE TO THE FOREST OF TARTAGINE. + +[Headnote: CAPELLA.--TARTAGINE FOREST.] + + From Belgodere, Route Forestiere, No. 3, leads down to the small + port of Losari, 6 miles N. from Belgodere and 4-1/2 E. from the Ile + Rousse. A continuation of the same route southward extends to the + bridge across the Tartagine, 2355 feet, 25 miles from the Ile + Rousse, in the great forest of Tartagine. It passes the Bocca + Campana, 2782 feet, 3-1/4 miles from Belgodere; the Bocca Croce, 3045 + feet, the culminating part of the road, 7 miles from Belgodere; and + 2-1/2 miles farther, the hamlets of Olmi and Capella, 9 miles from + Speloncato; with ever-varying mountain and village scenes among + great forests; 20 m. from Belgodere is the Pont Tartagine in the + forest of that name. The forest of Tartagine, enclosed within the + high crests of the Capo Dente 6667 ft. on the west, and of Mt. Padro + on the east, measures 7166 acres, and contains principally the + _Pinus laricio_ and the _P. pinaster_, intermingled with ilexes or + evergreen oaks (p. 41). + + "Olmi-Capella 2723 ft. is in an open airy situation, commanding fine + views of the mountains to the S. and S.W., and protected to some + extent on the N. and N.W. by the ridge which sweeps round to the + head of the Tartagine valley. This ridge, though in the + neighbourhood of the village only about 1000 ft. above the sloping + plateau on which it is built, rises to the W. into the peaks of + Monte Tolo 4370 ft., Monte San Parteo 5512 ft., Monte Cineraggia + 5286 ft., Monte Grosso 6227 ft., Punta Radiche 6595 ft., Capo al + Dente 6667 ft., and Monte Corona 7031 ft. The N. slope of this ridge + is very steep, and commands most magnificent views of the Haute + Balagne and the sea beyond, whilst it is traversed by numerous + passes which afford charming scenery. Besides the _route + forestiere_, which crosses the Col de Bocca Croce 3048 ft., and by + which the timber of the forest of Tartagine is conveyed to Ile + Rousse for shipment, several mule-paths connect Olmi Capella much + more directly with Ville and Speloncato by the Bocca Battaglia 3550 + ft., and Bocca Croce d'Ovo 3629 feet; with Feliceto by the Bocca + Pianile 5033 ft.; with Zilia and Calvi by the Bocca di Cineraggia + 4698 ft.; with Calenzana by the Bocca Bianca 6155 ft., with + Calenzana or the Val Ficarella by the Bocca di Tartagine 6093 ft.; + and with the head of the valley of Asco by the Bocca de l'Ondella + 6086 ft."--F. F. Tuckett, Alpine Club. + +[Headnote: PALASCA.] + + miles from CALVI + miles to CORTE + +{28-3/4}{32-1/4} +PALASCA, pop. 550. Situated lower down than the high road and the last +village on this side of the + +{31-1/2}{29-1/2} +COL DE SAN COLOMBANO, 2625 feet above the sea. The view though more vast +is less distinct, presenting a succession of mountain-tops, between +which are dimly seen valleys with the sea in the distance. The diligence +now descends into the narrow, rocky vale of the Navaccia, an affluent of +the Tartagine, which enters the Golo a little above the important bridge +called the + +[Headnote: PONTE ALLA LECCIA.] + +{46-3/4}{14-1/4} +PONTE ALLA LECCIA. Inn at station. Here take rail for Corte (see p. 8) +or for Bastia, 29 miles N.E. (see p. 10). The Ponte Nuovo is distinctly +seen from the station. The two small houses near the railway bridge, on +the S. side of the Golo, were Paoli's headquarters during the battle +(see pp. 9 and 39). + +{61} +CORTE, see page 8. + + +Ajaccio to Vico and Evisa. + +33 miles north; time 7 to 8 hours; fare 4 frs. + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to VICO + +{ }{33} +AJACCIO. At about two miles from the town the diligence commences the +ascent of the low Col of Stileto, passing the aqueduct for the Gravona +water. On the left hand are the granite quarries whence the large slabs +were taken for the monument to Napoleon in the Place d'Armes, as well as +the long blocks for the pillars of the Marseilles cathedral. To the +right are the village of Appietto, pop. 700, on a hill and the great +cliff Monte Gozzi, 656 feet high. + +{12}{21} +Summit of the COL ST. SEBASTIEN, 1344 feet above the sea, commanding a +lovely prospect of the Bays of Liscia, Sagona and Cargese, and of the +valley of Cinarca, with its villages and vineyards. At the foot of the +Col is a small inn called Le Repos des Voyageurs, where bread and wine +and capital sea-urchins can be had. They are eaten raw, and taken out of +the shell by cutting it in two horizontally. + +{23}{10} +SAGONA, junction with road to Calvi, 79 miles N. (see p. 17). + +{31}{2} +Summit of the COL ST. ANTOINE, 1488 feet. Near the top, at some distance +to the left, is the village of Balogna, pop. 600, while in front is seen +the splendid range of the Monte Rotondo, among which the most +conspicuous is La Sposata, at the head of wooded valleys. + +The road to the left or N. leads to Evisa, 18 miles from Vico, pop. +1000, and 2770 feet above the sea. _Hotel:_ Carrara, a comfortable +house, where vehicles may be hired. Evisa is charmingly situated on the +confines of the forest of Aitone, containing 3,749 acres. Beyond Aitone, +or 11 miles from Evisa, is the large forest of Valdoniello, 11,483 +acres. These forests, instead of extending monotonously on large plains, +plunge into deep valleys, or creep up the sides of high mountains. + +From Evisa descend to Porto (see p. 18). + +[Headnote: VICO.] + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to VICO + +{33} +VICO, pop. 2020. _Inns:_ France, where the diligence stops; Voyageurs; +Univers. Most picturesquely situated in the valley of the Liamone, +surrounded by steep mountains covered with apple, peach, chestnut, +walnut, olive and oak trees. On the opposite side of the valley is the +large whitewashed convent of St. Francis, with terraced garden shaded by +tall magnolias, beautifully placed on a thickly-wooded bank, above which +is seen the small hamlet of Nessa. It is a favourite summer resort of +the _elite_ of Ajaccio, who revel here on carpets of cyclamen, violets, +and a profusion of other wild flowers, in the shade of the dense foliage +of the chestnut groves around. + +[Headnote: BATHS OF GUAGNO.] + + Seven and a half miles from Vico up the wooded vale of the Liamone + and by the Bridges of Silvani and Belfiori, the village of Murzo and + the Col de Sorro, are the Baths of Guagno, with hot, sulphurous + springs, resembling in their properties those of Bareges in the + Pyrenees (see Black's _South France_). From May to September they + are much frequented, when a coach runs between Vico and Guagno. + Time, 2 hours; fare, 3 frs. Coaches can be hired at Vico for Evisa. + Charge, 10 frs. + + +Ajaccio to Sartene. + +53 m. S. by diligence, over a hilly road; 13 hrs. + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to SARTENE + +{ }{53} +AJACCIO. The most comfortable way to go to Sartene is to take the +steamer to Propriano, only 8 miles N. from Sartene, and there to await +the daily coach. The diligence from Ajaccio, after having crossed the +rivers Gravona, Prunelli, Agnone, Vergajolo and Margone, and the pass of +Campolaccio, 843 feet, arrives at + +[Headnote: CAURO.] + +{12-1/2}{40-1/2} +CAURO or CAVRO, 1180 ft. _Inn._ Coach to Bastelica. Pop. 700. A +straggling mountain village, commanding extensive views. + + +Cauro to Bastelica. + + 12 m. northwards by "Courrier" by a charming forest road, which + after crossing the Else at the Pont Zipitoli, 7 m. from Cauro, + enters the defile of the Prunelli at the Col de Menta, about 2 m. + from Bastelica. + + The road from Cauro crosses the Col Torro, 1394 ft., 1-1/2 m. Four + miles, the col and bridge S. Alberto, 1710 ft. whence a road + ramifies 7-1/2 m. S. to S. Maria-Siche and Grossetto. On the right side + of the road a waterfall descends from the crest of the Usciolo. + Large oaks and chestnut trees with ilexes and pines are now seen. + 7 m. here a short branch road leads to a maison forestiere surrounded + by large trees, at the foot of Mt. Mantelluccio, 5515 ft. A little + farther a road ramifies 4-1/2 m. by the wild and beautiful valley of + the Else into the forest of Ponteniello, and where it ends a mule + path commences to Frasseto, pop. 750, on the coach road between + Ajaccio and the baths of Guitera. 7-1/2 m. the Zipitoli bridge across + the Else, a short way above its junction with the Prunelli. On the + right side of the river is the Maison de Cantonniers of Zipitoli. + + 8 m. The Col Crichetto, 2380 ft., and nearly 3 m. farther the Col + Menta, 2458 ft., from which the road descends to the Prunelli and + continues by its banks to + +[Headnote: DOMINICACCI.] + + Bastelica, pop. 4000, inn, 2400 ft., consisting of a group of + hamlets, none of which bears the name of Bastelica. Sampiero was + born in the one called Dominicacci, between Stazzona and Costa, at + the end of the 15th cent., and killed by the Ornanos in the defile + of the Prunelli on the 17th January 1567. The house which stands on + the site of the one he lived in bears an epitaph to his memory, + placed by "William Wyse, Irish Roman Catholic, nephew of Napoleon + the Great." + +[Headnote: MT. RENOSO.] + + Among the many pleasant excursions is the ascent of Mt. Renoso, 7733 + ft., 5-1/2 hrs. N.E. + + In summer men go up every day with mules for frozen snow. There are + lakes on the south and east sides of the mountain, and some fine + velvety swards. Map, p. 27. + +Five miles beyond Cauro, the Sartene road attains the summit of the Col +St. Georges, 2500 ft., commanding a fine prospect of the surrounding +country, and afterwards descends to the valley of Ornano, the native +land of Vanina, traversed by the Taravo. + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to SARTENE + +{20}{33} +APA, whence a Route Departamentale extends 18 m. N.E. to the baths of +Guitera and Zicavo. Maps, pp. 1 and 27. + + +AJACCIO TO ZICAVO AND THE BATHS OF GUITERA. + +[Headnote: BATHS OF GUITERA.] + + 8-1/4 hrs. by coach and 39 m. from Ajaccio by the Apa mill, 1841 ft., + then by the slopes of the Punta del Castello, 2674 ft., through a + charming country, to S. Maria-Siche, 2 m. from Apa, inn where + coach stops, pop. 800. An old lofty building here of granite, with + the remains of towers blackened by age, was the birthplace of the + unfortunate Vanina, strangled by Sampiero, p. 39. The ruins of the + chateau he built for himself in 1554, after his house had been + destroyed, are seen on a hill to the left of the road. Coaches for + Ajaccio, Guitera, Zicavo, and Propriano. 4-1/2 m. from Apa at Campo, + pop. 390, the road describes a great circuit to get round the head + of the defile of the torrent of Frasseto, an affluent of the Taravo. + 1-1/4 m. farther is Frasseto, pop. 740. When about 2770 feet high there + is, through an opening, a superb view extending to the sea by the + valley of the Frasseto. 8 m. from Apa is the Col de Granace, 2713 + ft., with a splendid view. Zecavo, 10 m., 2238 ft., pop. 510, on an + affluent of the Taravo. Then rounding the buttresses of the Sposata, + 3288 ft., enter the village of Corrano, 12 m., pop. 470, in a lovely + situation. 14-1/2 m. from Apa and 34-1/2 from Ajaccio are the hot + sulphurous springs of Guitera, with hotel, 1437 ft., on the right + bank of the Taravo, an excellent trout stream. Coach to and from + Ajaccio during the season, from May to September. Pleasantly + situated among cork oaks and banks covered with the Osmunda fern. + The road from the Baths of Guitera up to Zicavo, 3-1/2 m., follows for + about 1 m. the Taravo till its union with the torrent from Mt. + Coscione, whence it climbs up through the gorge to + +[Headnote: ZICAVO.--MT. INCUDINE.] + + Zicavo, pop. 1500, hotel, 2385 ft., charmingly situated, + overlooking the valley of the Taravo, 38 m. by coach from Ajaccio. + From Zicavo the ascent is made of Monte Incudine, 7008 ft., in 6 + hrs. Mules can be employed to within 1/2 hr. of summit. Although not + difficult, guide and mule are advisable, if for nothing else than to + assist in fording the streams. After having passed the chapel of S. + Roch, ascend a steep mule path, right, among the largest and best + formed chestnut trees in the island, then rounding Mt. Buchino, 3623 + ft., among ilexes, and Mt. Occhiato, 5749 ft., covered with beech + trees, ascend southwards by a wooded ravine between great rocks. + Between 2 and 3 hrs. the Pastures of the plain of Coscione, with + many shepherds' huts, are reached, whence Mt. Incudine is seen. + After leaving this the path becomes very bad, over loose stones and + across troublesome torrents. These are succeeded by an annoying + thick coppice of alders, and then the Col de Cheralba, 6345 ft., is + ascended, in about 5-1/2 hrs. from starting. The mules are left here, + and the ascent is made by the western flank, taking care to make the + guide understand that the highest peak is wanted, and not the Rocher + de l'Incudine. "The view is probably the most beautiful in + Corsica--a vast panorama full of variety. Steep pine clad hills sink + abruptly into the eastern sea; glens open southward on a rich + glowing valley; the blue depths of the bays are fringed with an + edging of white sand and green water. The great granite aiguilles of + the forest of Bavella, a strange array of horns and pinnacles, run + across the foreground; to the left the long fiord of Porto Vecchio + stretches far into the land; while in the centre of the picture are + spread out the broad Straits of Bonifacio, studded with pale isles + and islets. On the left is Caprera, the home of the liberator of the + Two Sicilies. [Headnote: NELSON.] The one beside it, Maddalena, is + linked with even greater memories--Nelson and Napoleon. Under its + lee, in a bay which Nelson christened 'Agincourt Sound,' the British + fleet lay for months before the battle of the Nile, watching for the + French squadron sheltered behind the guns of Toulon. Two silver + candlesticks on the altar of the village church record Nelson's + gratitude for the friendly services of the inhabitants. It was in + attacking this same village that Napoleon, in 1793, first saw fire. + For mountain views the Alpine clubman is spoilt, but for sea views, + and they are not less beautiful, he must go far, perhaps as far as + Greece, to find such another."--D. F. Freshfield, Alpine Club. See + map on fly-leaf. + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to SARTENE + +{21}{32} +GROSSETO, 1476 feet, pop. 600; 4-1/2 hours by diligence from Ajaccio. + A little beyond the inn is the church, sheltered by large ilex + trees, which grow to a great height in this neighbourhood. + +{30}{23} +BICCHISANO, 350 feet, pop. 1800, where the passengers dine. + The diligence then passes the villages of Petreto and Cassalabriva, + pop. 300, and shortly afterwards reaches the summit of the Col + Celaccia, 1910 feet, about 2-1/2 m. E. from Sollacaro, pop. 800, where + Boswell visited Paoli. Sollacaro is not on the highroad. + +[Headnote: OLMETO.] + +{39}{14} +OLMETO, pop. 1650, hotel. On a hill, with an extensive view. + In the neighbourhood, on Monte Buttareto, are the ruins of the + castle of Arrigo della Rocca. No more beautiful sight than that of + Olmeto can be pictured. Immediately below the town the ground dips + steeply down, covered with corn or turf; or in terraces of vineyard, + varied with large groups of fine olive trees stretching down to the + shore. Above the village a vast growth of vegetation climbs the + heights. Among huge masses of granite are tangles of every shrub the + island produces, the wild olive or oleaster being one of the most + elegant; while every part of the heights close to the town abounds + with little picture subjects, with a clear blue sky for a + background. + + The road now descends to the coast, and after crossing the Baracci, + near the hot sulphurous mineral baths of Baracci, arrives at + +[Headnote: PROPRIANO.] + +{44-1/2}{8-1/2} +PROPRIANO, pop. 1000. H. France. + Every Saturday a steamer arrives from Ajaccio, and returns on the + Monday morning. Another steamer twice weekly between this and + Ajaccio. Near the bridge over the Rizzanese, are the two Celtic + monuments called the Stazione del' Diavolo. + +PROPRIANO TO SOLENZARA. + + Two and a half miles beyond the bridge commences the Route + Forestiere, No. 4, leading to Solenzara, 42-1/2 m. N.E. This road + ascends by the Rizzanese to S. Lucia di Tallano, whence eastward to + Levie, 1970 ft.; and thence Zonza, 2586 ft. The road afterwards + ascends N.E. by a picturesque ravine to the Col Bavella, 3965 ft.; + whence after descending to the Maison Cantonniere, 1476 ft., it + crosses the Col Larone, 2013; whence it descends by a winding road + partly by the banks of the Fiumicello and partly by the R. Solenzara + to Solenzara (see p. 36). + +[Map: Corsica, Central Region] + +Shortly after crossing the Rizzanese the diligence commences the long +ascent to Sartene, disclosing views of the great valley below and of the +splendid snowy heights of the long range of mountains opposite, +terminating in the lofty regions of the great Monte Incudine, 7008 ft. + +[Headnote: SARTENE.] + + miles from AJACCIO + miles to SARTENE + +{53} +SARTENE, 1000 feet; pop. 6010; _Inns:_ Commerce: Univers. + Coaches daily to and from Ajaccio, Bonifacio and Santa Lucia di + Tallano. Old Sartene is a town of narrow streets approached by a + fine bridge, whence the whole valley is seen down to the Gulf of + Valinco. It still retains some towers and parts of the walls erected + in the 16th century. The houses are built of rough, dark gray + granite, with steep stone steps leading up to the main entrance, and + odd Italian chimneys, some in the shape of pillars with curious + capitals, others in the form of towers or obelisks. The houses + bordering the Nouvello Traverse and the streets leading into the + "Place" form the new town. + + +Sartene to Corte by Vivario, + +up the centre of the island. Maps, pp. 1 and 27. + + This grand mountain road, No. 196 bis, extends from Sartene, + 73 m. N. to the Ajaccio and Corte road, which it joins at the 60 + kilometres-stone, on the Col Serra, 1/2 mile from Vivario. All the + diligences between Ajaccio and Corte halt at the inn of Vivario + (p. 8). + +[Headnote: S. LUCIA DI TALLANO.] + +After leaving Sartene the road crosses the Fiumicicoli and ascends the +valley of the Rizzanese to Loreto, 12 m., and Cargiaca 15 m. N. from +Sartene 1302 ft.; grand view. Near Loreto is S. Lucia di Tallano, 1270 +ft., with a quarry of a beautiful amphibole, a variety of hornblende. +The ground colour is grayish blue sprinkled with white and margined with +black spots (see p. 37). + +[Headnote: ZICAVO.] + +From Cargiaca the road enters the valley of the Coscione and ascends +through the ilex forest of Taca amidst towering mountains and vertical +cliffs by the villages of Zerubia and Aullene, 2736 ft., pop. 1100; inn; +21 m. N. from Sartene. It now crosses the Coscione, 3492 ft., then the +Col Vaccia, 3898 ft., and descends by the Col d'Alisandri, 3426 ft., to +Zicavo, 2445 ft., with an inn, 17 m. from Aullene, 3-1/2 m. E. from the +baths of Guitera, 38 m. N. from Sartene and 37 m. S. from Vivario. + +From the Bocca Tinzole a road ramifies N.W. to Olivese 1460 ft., pop. +700, in the valley of the Taravo, 7 m. from Guitera by a beautiful +road. + +From Zicavo the road crosses the Col San Francesco, 1969 ft., to +Cozzano, 40 m., pop. 900, and enters the valley of the Taravo, which it +ascends by the east bank between two great mountain chains, the +culminating point of the western chain being Mt. Don Giovanni 6405 ft., +and that of the eastern Pointe Capella 6706 ft. + +Three and a quarter miles up the valley from Cozzano a wheel road leads +1-1/2 m. E. to the Maison Forestiere of St. Antoine, whence a mule path by +the Col de Rapara, 5557 ft., extends to Isolaccio and the hot baths of +Pietrapola, p. 8, by a picturesque road through a beautiful part of the +forest. + +Four and a half miles above Cozzano is the Col Scrivano, 2959 ft., +whence a mule path leads across the valley to Palneca, pop. 1050, on the +wooded slopes of Mt. Pietra Cinta, 4958 ft. + +A little below the summit of the Col is the Maison de Cantonniers de +Scrivano. + +Nine and a half miles N. from Zicavo is the bridge Argentuccia, fronting +a grand semi-circle of mountains covered with noble trees. This is the +commencement of the real Verde forest. + +Eleven and three quarter miles from Zicavo is the Maison de Cantonniers +de Ghiraldino, 3936 ft., 49 m. N. from Sartene, 2 m. S. from the Col +Verde and 5 m. S. from the House of Refuge of Marmano. A little beyond +the house a wheel road, left, descends into one of the finest parts of +the Verde forest. + +[Headnote: COL VERDE.] + +Thirteen and three quarter miles from Zicavo and 51 m. from Sartene is +the Col Verde, 4290 ft., with, nearly a mile distant, the Maison de +Cantonniers de Marmano. Below is the forest of Marmano, with its best +trees cut down, and in the neighbourhood the sources of the rivers +Taravo, 5678 ft., at the Col Tisina, of the Fium Orbo, 3783 ft. under a +mountain a little to the N. of the Col Verde, and of the Prunelli, 4790 +ft., among a group of high mountains to the W. The Vecchio rises from +the springs on Mt. Oro. + +[Headnote: REFUGE DE MARMANO.] + +Seventeen miles from Zicavo and 54 m. from Sartene is the Refuge de +Marmano, 3182 ft., beautifully situated. Here was formerly the summer +station of the Casabianda penitentiary. The escaped criminals committed +such outrages that the government at the repeated petitioning of the +shepherds were obliged to withdraw it. Finally Casabianda was abandoned +also, and the prisoners removed to the neighbourhood of Ajaccio, where +they could be well looked after. + +Food and lodging may be obtained at the Maison Forestiere, or 1-1/4 m. +farther at the Maison de Cantonniers de Canareccia, 2760 ft., in the +rocky defile of the Fium Orbo. Between this and Ghisoni, 6 m., 3 bridges +and 2 low Cols are crossed. At the second bridge, the Pont de Casso, +4-1/2 m. from Ghisoni, are seen the great pinnacles or needles and lofty +cliffs of Albuccia Point or Kyrie Eleison, 4935 ft. + +From the Canaraccia the road winds its way northward along the flanks of +mountains sloping down to the Orbo, which it leaves shortly before +reaching + +[Headnote: GHISONI.--COL SORBA.] + +Ghisoni, pop. 1740, 2160 ft., 62 m. N. from Sartene, 12 m. S. from +Vivario, 8 m. N. from the House of Refuge, and 24 m. N. from Zicavo. +Four m. N. from Ghisoni the road crosses the Col Scozzolatojo, 3916 ft., +and 2 m. farther the Col Sorba, 4310 ft., 6 m. S. from Vivario, see p. +8. The descent from the Col Sorba into Vivario is very striking. It is +effected by excessively sharp zigzags through a noble pine forest. +Between the branches tower the bold forms of Monte d'Oro, Monte Rotondo, +and, in the distance, behind the uplands of Corte, the crags of Monte +Traunato. + +The best resting-places on this road are Zicavo, 39 m. S.E. from +Ajaccio, from which it is approached by a diligence; and the pleasant +village of Ghisoni, where there is a very fair inn. At Vivario there is +the Hotel Voyageurs. Guides and carriages should be hired either at +Sartene or Vivario, 20 frs. per day. + + +Ghisoni to Ghisonaccia. + +18 m. S.E. Maps, pp. 1 and 27. + + By the Forest road No. 5, cut for nearly 11 m. in the face of the + steep cliffs which enclose the Orbo. As this road in all the + dangerous parts is hardly 11 ft. wide, it is necessary to ascertain + before starting in a vehicle, the position of the carts conveying + the logs, and to arrange accordingly. + + The road descends from Ghisoni to the Pont de Regolo, 2077 ft., + where it crosses the Casapietrone, and then follows the course of + the Fium Orbo, crosses the Ruello Bridge 1450 ft., and enters the + Salto della Sposata 4-1/2 m. from Ghisoni, where the river flows in a + narrow bed between vertical precipices, some more than 1200 ft. + high. + +[Headnote: L'INZECCA.] + + The road, chiselled out of these cliffs, passes under 3 great + portals. From the third is seen, through the great cleft in the rock + of Inzecca, the sea at Aleria. + + After this the defile opens up to close again between serpentine + cliffs. It then crosses the 2 Ponts de Parabuja and the viaduct de + l'Inzecca, and reaches the entrance to the Passage de l'Inzecca, + 7 m. from Ghisoni, 985 ft. above the sea, where the road is cut + through great serpentine rocks. This is the most difficult part for + the waggons to pass. Map, p. 27. + + The plain now widens, and 8 m. from Ghisoni a branch road leads to + Vezzani. + + Nine and a quarter miles from Ghisoni is the Col S. Antoine, 355 ft., + and 8-3/4 m. farther is Ghisonaccia, p. 32. + + +Sartene to Bonifacio. + +33 miles south-east, by diligence; time, 6 hours. + + miles from SARTENE + miles to BONIFACIO + +{ }{33} +SARTENE. The road winds its way through great blocks of granite +scattered on a plain studded with shrubby specimens of the ilex, towards +the shore of the Golfo di Roccapina, with a fantastically shaped rock +called il Leone Coronato. East from the gulf the road passes the village +of Pianottoli, 21 m. from Sartene, almost due south from the singular +mountain l'Uomo di Cagna, 3980 ft.; then the bridge across the Figari at +the head of the Gulf of Figari, 23 m.; the Col de la Testa or Scopeto, +225 ft., 24 m.; and the bridge across the Ventilegni, 27 m. from +Sartene, and 6 from Bonifacio. + +[Headnote: BONIFACIO.] + +{33} +BONIFACIO, pop. 4000. H. du Nord; France in the high town. Diligences +leave daily for Bastia, Sartene, and Ajaccio. A steamer arrives every +Saturday from Ajaccio and returns on the Monday. Bonifacio was founded +in 833 by the Tuscan marquis whose name it bears, to protect this part +of the island against the piratical incursions of the Saracens. The high +town is built on the top of a limestone rock rising vertically from the +sea. The low town occupies one side of the fine natural dock, hemmed in +by perpendicular cliffs with an opening of only 328 yards towards the +sea. From the steamboat wharf a broad paved series of steps leads up to +the high town, entering it through the Porte Vieille. In the old house +fronting this Porte or gateway, Charles V., in 1541, stayed two days and +a night on his return from his unsuccessful expedition against Algiers. +Overtaken by a storm, he had taken refuge in the Gulf of Santa Manza. +The door of the house, decorated with an arabesque on marble, is in the +narrow side street. In the Place d'Armes are the church of San Domenico, +built by the Templars, characterised by its octagonal tower with an +embrasured termination; and the great tower "Torrione," part of the +fortifications built by the marquis, and formerly the most important +part of the citadel. Near this tower is the flight of steps "Redragon," +cut in the rock by the Genoese, which descends by 202 steps to the sea. +The small room over the gateway of the citadel, opposite the house of +Charles V., was inhabited by Napoleon for nearly eight months. There are +grand sea-views from the ramparts. The town consists of tall, dingy +houses, and narrow, steep, and in most cases dirty streets. The +promenade of Bonifacio is the small covered terrace before the church of +Santa Maria. Here also is the public cistern. + +Of the numerous caves which pierce the base of the rock of Bonifacio, +the most remarkable one enters from the sea, 214 feet below the Place +d'Armes, and extends to an unknown distance. It contains a freshwater +lake, which rises and falls with the tide. A staircase with a vaulted +roof and consisting of 337 steps leads down to this lake. The water is +brought up to the surface by a force pump, is perfectly transparent, +with a slight calcareous taste. In the high town there are 39 private +and one public cistern, in which the rain water from the roofs is stored +up. The low town has a well supplied from a stream by an aqueduct. The +afternoon is the best time to visit the caves. A boat for one or party +should not cost more than 5 frs. The finest, the Dragonetta, cannot be +visited when the sea is rough. + +On Monte Pertusato (the south extremity of Corsica), 2 miles S.E. from +Bonifacio, is a lighthouse of the first order, 325 feet above the sea. +The southern promontory is pierced by a cavern hung with stalactites. + + +Bonifacio to Bastia. + +103 miles; diligence to Ghisonaccia, 50 m. N., the rest by rail. + + miles from BONIFACIO + miles to BASTIA + +{ }{103} +BONIFACIO. The diligence, after passing the Col Finocchio, 354 feet, 2-1/2 +miles N. from Bonifacio, the Maison Francola, 7 miles, the bridge across +the Stabiacco, 16 miles, and the Col Mattonara, 17-1/2 miles (whence the +Route Forestiere, No. 11, ascends 14 miles west into the forest of the +Ospedale), arrives in 3 hours at + +[Headnote: PORTO-VECCHIO.] + +{27}{76} +PORTO-VECCHIO, pop. 2740. Hotel Amis. Surrounded by its old walls, and +at the head of a beautiful gulf. The surrounding country is fertile, but +unhealthy during the hot weather, on account of the miasma rising from +the morasses and lagoons. To the N. of Porto, the mountains still +approach near to the sea; but beyond Solenzara (where the diligence +halts) 41-1/2 miles from Bonifacio, they recede and leave free those great +undulating plains which characterise the eastern coast of +Corsica--plains almost uninhabited and covered with heaths. From the +north side of the Travo commences a series of large lakes swarming with +fish and a kind of cockle. They are separated from the sea by long +narrow sandbanks, like earthen break-waters. The malaria prevails from +June to October, but even then only the night should be avoided in +travelling along this coast. The road after passing by the hamlet of +Favona, 33 m., arrives at + +[Headnote: SOLENZARA.] + +{45}{58} +SOLENZARA. Whence a wheel road extends westwards into the forest of + Bavella by the Col Bavella 18-1/2 m. S.W., and the Col Scalella, 22 m., + 2982 ft. to Zonza, 24-1/2 m. from Solenzara; 4 m. farther is the + village of S. Gavino di Carbini, 2292 ft., and other 2-1/2 m. the + village of Levie; 30 m. S.W. from Solenzara, and 10-1/2 from Propriano + is S. Lucia de Tallano, on the highroad to Aullene (see p. 27), and + for continuation of this road to Propriano see p. 26. + +The road to Bastia, after passing the Travo, 44 m., Vicchiseri, 46 m., +and Casamozza, 48-1/2 m., arrives at the railway station of + +[Headnote: GHISONACCIA.] + +{53}{50} +GHISONACCIA, pop. 850. On the Fium Orbo, 36 m. S.E. from Corte. + From this a department road of 4-1/2 m. leads to the hot sulphurous + baths of Pietrapola, with a large hotel in a healthy situation. + + From Ghisonaccia a carriage road extends N.W. to the villages of + Poggio-di-Nazza, 9-1/2 m., and Lugo-di-Nazza, 11-1/2 m. From Ghisonaccia + railway station a forest road extends 18 m. N.W. to Ghisoni, where + it joins the high road between Sartene and Vivario (p. 29). The + southern prolongation of this road leads to Zicavo, Petreto, + Bicchisano, and Portopollo, on the Gulf of Valinco. + +Forty-six m. from Bastia is Casabianda. H. Perett; a village situated on +a well-cultivated estate belonging to the government; formerly used as +an agricultural penitentiary for juvenile criminals. In the hot season +it is safer to pass the night at Casabianda than at Aleria. + +[Headnote: ALERIA.] + + miles from BONIFACIO + miles to BASTIA + +{58-1/4}{44-3/4} +ALERIA. Inn. The capital of Corsica till the invasion of the Saracens in +the 4th cent., now a poor village with an old Genoese fort, situated at +the mouth of the Tavignano, 1-1/4 m. from the Etang de Diane. Ancient +Aleria, the colony founded by the dictator Sulla about 82 B.C., occupied +both banks of the Tavignano, which waters one of the finest plains in +the world, where winter is unknown. The site of the town was well +selected. The population was probably 20,000. + +It was at Aleria that Theodore Neuhoff, a native of Altona, in Germany, +landed to have himself proclaimed King of Corsica, March 1736. He died a +pauper in London, and was buried in an obscure corner of St. Anne's +churchyard, Soho. On a mural tablet against the exterior wall, west end, +is the following epitaph written by Horace Walpole:--"Near this place is +interred Theodore, King of Corsica, who died in this parish, Dec. 11, +1756, immediately after leaving the King's Bench prison, by the benefit +of the Act of Insolvency. In consequence of which, he registered his +kingdom of Corsica for the use of his creditors." His capital was +Cervione. The lake de Diane is a great sheet of salt water with one +narrow opening to the sea. It formed the harbour of Aleria, and was +provided with quays, of which a vestige still remains. The lake contains +an island 460 yards in circumference, composed of oyster shells covered +with luxurious vegetation. Fish, and a cockle a species of Venerupis, +inhabit the brackish water of the lake. + +ALERIA TO CORTE. + +Coach every other day; fare, 5 francs; time, 4 hours. + + Thirty-one and a half m. N.W., by a picturesque road up the + course of the Tavignano, passing Cateraggio, 2 m., Rotani, 5 m., + commencement of bridle path leading N. to Tallone, 7-1/2 m., Tox, + 9-1/2 m., Campo, 11 m., and Moita, 12-1/2 m. Seven m. farther up + the main road a ramification extends N. to Giuncaggio, 4-1/2 m., + and to Pancheraccia, 5-1/2 m. + + Up the main road, 21-1/2 m. from Aleria, and near the bridge across + the Vecchio, a bridle path strikes off S. to Rospigliani, 5 m., and + Vezzani, 6-1/2 m. A little higher a ramification extends 5 m. W. to + Serraggio (p. 8). The road, after passing several other ramifications + with the Corte and Ajaccio road, arrives at Corte, p. 8. + + Ten m. W. from Aleria are the cold saline sulphurous springs of + Puzzichello, 190 ft., considered efficacious in the cure of + syphilitic diseases, resembling in this property the water of Aulus + in the Pyrenees. See Black's _South France_, West Half (Pyrenees). + +[Headnote: PRUNETE.--CERVIONE.--ALESANI.] + + miles from BONIFACIO + miles to BASTIA + +{79}{24} +PRUNETE. _Inn:_ Gaetan. Junction with road to Ponte alla Leccia, 44 m. +N.W. (p. 9), leading through a region of chestnut trees and past many +villages on the mountains, built chiefly on terraces. A coach runs from +the station to Alesani called also Castagneto 1938 ft. 14 m. W.; + ascending by Muchieto 808 ft. 3-3/4 m., Cervione 1073 ft. 4-1/2 m., pop. + 1000; _Inns:_ France: Voyageurs: an untidy village, once the capital + of King Theodore's realm. From Cervione the road describes a long + detour to the bridge across the Chebbia, whence it ascends to Cotone + 1008 ft 6-1/4 m., the Col d'Aja 1236 ft., and Ortale 1489 ft., 1-3/4 m. + from Alesani. Good red wine is made in the neighbourhood of + Cervione. The dirty little village of Castagneto or Alesani is + picturesquely situated on the side of a mountain overlooking a + valley covered with chestnut trees. The diligence stops at an inn, + where bread, eggs and coffee with goats' milk can be had and a + comfortable bed. A char-a-banc from this inn to Piedicroce (Orezza) + costs 10 frs., time 2-1/2 hours, 11 miles. For Orezza, see p. 34. + Passengers from Prunete to Piedicroce or Stazzona should not stop at + Cervione but continue the diligence route to Castagneto, whence + start next morning. The drive between Castagneto and Piedicroce, 11 + miles, is by far the most beautiful part of the road. The highest + part of the Col d'Arcarotta is a narrow ridge between the valleys of + Orezza and Ortia, commanding a charming view. See also p. 35. + +{87-1/4}{24-3/4} +PADULELLA. Four and a quarter miles west by a good road is San Nicolao, +pop. 600. + +[Headnote: STAZZONA.] + +{84-1/4}{18-3/4} +FOLELLI-Orezza station. Junction with road to Piedicroce 14-1/4 m. S.W.; + by the course of the Fium'alto, the Chestnut country, and the + village of Stazzona, 13-1/4 m. from Folelli, 1/4 m. from and 355 ft. + under Piedicroce, and 1 m. from and 200 ft. above the spring of + Orezza. The coach from the station stops at Stazzona, pop. 250. + _Hotels_: *Paix, Casino. Very fine oleanders in the gardens. On the + opposite side of the valley of the Fium'alto is Granajola, with the + establishment Manfredi, 2016 ft. above the sea and 220 feet above + the spring. The hotel Manfredi has the most select society, is the + largest house, and its road from the spring is the least dusty; but + as no public coach goes there it is necessary to hire a private + conveyance either at Stazzona or Piedicroce, 3 or 4 miles. The + charge in all the hotels is 7 frs. per day, not including coffee or + tea in the morning. The hotels of Stazzona and the hotel Manfredi + are the most convenient for the Spa drinkers; those of Piedicroce + are too distant. + +[Headnote: OREZZA.] + + The Orezza spring is in the centre of a small terrace in the narrow + valley of the Fium'alto, whose steep banks are covered with chestnut + trees, and ascended by dusty winding roads. The water is a + bicarbonate chalybeate, with an agreeable amount of free carbonic + acid gas. + +[Headnote: VESCOVATO.] + +{89}{14} +VESCOVATO STATION. Town 1-1/4 m. W., pop. 1500. + *H. de Progreso in the large "Place" where all the coaches stop, + near a fountain of pure gushing water, cold even in summer. The + rather untidy town of Vescovato is almost hidden in the corner of a + valley, 550 ft. above the sea, by woods of vigorous olive and + chestnut trees. From it a coach starts daily to Porta, 15 m. W., by + a bad, dusty, jolting road, passing through Venzolasca, pop. 1300, + on the top of a hill, 732 ft., 1-1/2 m. from Vescovato. Three m. + farther a road, left, 1 m., leads to Porri, 1718 ft., pop. 300. + 7-1/2 m. from Vescovato is the Col S. Agostino, and then follow, 8 m., + Silvareccio, 2198 ft., pop. 550; 8-1/2 m., Piano, 2230 ft., pop. 170; + Casabianca, 4 m. farther, 2133 ft.; and then Porta, pop. 630; _Inn:_ + H. Franceschi, in the "Place," opposite the church, where the coach + stops. In July and August the coach goes on to Piedicroce. + +{91}{12} +PONT DU GOLO. A little more than 3 miles from the bridge, at the mouth +of the river, stood the town of Mariana, founded by Marius (B. 155, D. +86 B.C.), where Seneca most probably spent his exile, and of which there +remain only a few insignificant fragments on the beach. In the vicinity +are the ruins of a chapel, and about a mile farther those of the church, +called La Canonica, with 2 aisles and a nave 100 feet long and 40 wide, +ornamented with rows of pillars of the Doric order. Both church and +chapel are in the Pisan style. + +At Casamozza Station, 12-1/2 m. S. from Bastia, the Aleria railway joins +the one from Corte. + +{103} +BASTIA. See p. 10. + + +Ponte alla Leccia to Piedicroce. + + Eighteen miles S.E. by "Courrier" daily. Fare 3 frs. Time 5 hours, + by a mountain road, making immense circuits round by the heads of + ravines among rich pastures and great chestnut and beech trees. + + Nine miles from the Ponte is Morosaglia, pop. 1060, with an inn, + where the coach stops. A conglomeration of hamlets on the slopes of + a mountain, one of which, Stretta, was the birthplace of Pascal + Paoli. 2 m. farther is the summit of the Col de Prato with an inn, + 3215 ft., 2850 ft. below, or 3 hours from the top of San Pietro, + commanding a magnificent view of the Castagniccia or the Chestnut + country, and the islands of Monte Christo, Pianosa, and Elba, + floating in the haze between sky and water. See map on fly-leaf. + +[Headnote: CASTAGNICCIA.] + + The Castagniccia may be said to lie between the Golo and the + Tavignano, bounded on the W. by the railway. The chestnut trees are + not so famous for their size as for the qualify of their fruit. + + The coach having passed the hamlet of Campana arrives at + +[Headnote: PIEDICROCE.] + + Piedicroce, pop. 600, several inns, 2104 ft., 18 m. from Ponte + alla Leccia, and 650 ft. above the spring of Orezza by a winding, + dusty, bad wheel road, passing Stazzona 1978 ft. above the sea. + + Although Piedicroce is not a suitable place for those who come to + drink the Orezza water, it is an excellent centre for excursions, + the favourite one being to the top of Monte S. Pietro 5795 ft. in + 3 hours, by the cabins of Tajalto 4600 ft., and a beech forest. Mule + to nearly the top. Guide and mule, 5 frs. See also above. + + Coach in July and August to the Vescovato station by Porta, p. 34. + + +Piedicroce to Prunete Station, 26 m. S.E. + +The continuation of the road from Ponte alla Leccia. + + From Piedicroce the road passes by Pied'Orezza, 2106 ft., 1-3/4 m. from + Piedicroce, Piedipartino, 2124 ft., 2 m.; Carcheto, 2172 ft., 3m.; + Brustico, 2293 ft. 4 m.; the Col d'Arcarotta, 2698 ft., 5-1/4 m. from + Piedicroce, between the richly wooded valleys of the Fium'alto and + the Alesani, and commanding a very fine view of both. From this the + road gradually descends to Prunete, the most beautiful part being + from this Col to Castagneto called also Alesani, where there is an + inn and whence a coach starts daily to Prunete Railway Station. + +[Headnote: CASTAGNETO.] + + Seven miles from Piedicroce and 2 from the Col is Ortia, 2638 ft., + pop. 400, hidden among chesnut trees; Felce, 2570 ft., 8-3/4 m., + pop. 400; Pied Alesani 11 m.; Querceto, 2041 ft., and Castagneto + or Alesani, 1938 ft., 12 m. from Piedicroce and 14 from Prunete + Railway Station, the principal village in this valley. + + A little below Castagneto, at the commencement of this chestnut + wooded valley is Ortale, 1489 ft., pop. 280. The coach then having + passed Cotone 1008 ft., 19-1/4 m., pop. 800, and having crossed the + little bridge over the stream Chebbia arrives at Cervione, _Inn_, + France: 1073 ft., 21-3/4 m. from Piedicroce, and 4-1/4 from Prunete. From + Cervione another coach descends to Prunete Railway Station by + Muchieto 820 ft. Prunete consists of a few houses near the beach, + resorted to by bathers in summer, situated on the highway between + Bastia and Bonifacio. See also p. 33. + + +Solenzara to Sartene, + + 46 m. S.W. This forest road, No. 4, ascends the valley of the + Solenzara, crosses the great S.E. range at the Col de Bavella, + descends into the valley of the Rizzanese, passes through the + villages of Zonza, San Gavino, Levie, and Ste. Lucie, and joins the + highroad between Ajaccio and Bonifacio at the milestone 76.690 + (47-3/4 m.) from Ajaccio, 3-3/4 m. from Sartene, and 42 m. from + Solenzara. + +The road, after passing up by the S. side of the river through olive +groves and "maquis," arrives at the Col and Maison de Cantonniers de +Castelluccio, 210 ft., 4 m. from Solenzara. Two m. farther by the Pont +de Ghiadole, the road crosses the Solenzara by the Calzatojo bridge, +6 m. from Solenzara, 340 ft., winds upward by the deep gully of the +Fiumicello, which having crossed by the bridge 7-1/4 m. from Solenzara, +ascends a steep winding road bordered with great trees to the Maison de +Cantonniers de Rocchio-Pinzuto, 8-3/4 m., 1060 ft., at the foot of the +great cliff of that name. + +The road still winding upwards passes the immense wall of reddish cliffs +called the Rochers de Bavella before arriving at the Col de Larone +10-3/4 m., 2056 ft. The road, still winding, ascends a huge promontory +between the torrents Fiumicello and S. Pietro, separating into two +distinct parts the forest of Bavella, and crosses the Pont de Bocintoro, +1510 ft., 12 m. A little farther, in a wild yet beautiful situation, +is the Maison de Cantonniers d'Arghiavara. From the Pont 1-1/2 m. is the +better house, la maison forestiere de l'Alza, commanding superb views, +situated among great trees and nursery gardens. + +The ascent from this is by a steep road, almost impracticable for +vehicles, through a forest of the stateliest and oldest pines in +Corsica. + +18 m. from Solenzara and 28 from Sartene is the Maison de Cantonniers de +Bavella, 3885 ft., near the summit of the Col Bavella, 4068 ft. In this +house of refuge there is generally comfortable accommodation and a +supply of provisions. The surrounding huts are occupied in July and +August by people from the plains about Solenzara, who come here to +escape the fever-producing malaria. The house commands, even from the +windows, grand views. + +On the other side of the Col, 550 ft. below it and 2-1/4 m. from it, is +the Maison de Cantonniers de Ballatojo, from which the road descends +amidst great pines mixed with a few oaks and ilexes, in view of the +Asinao forest and of the lofty granite pinnacled precipices, 10 m. long, +between Mt. Colva, 4520 ft., and the Point Tintinaja, 6658 ft. + +Zonza, good inn, pop. 1040, height 2582 ft., 24-1/4 m. from Solenzara and +21-3/4 m. from Sartene, hidden among chestnut trees and conveniently +situated for visiting the forests of Zonza, Asinao, and Bavella. + +[Headnote: S. GAVINO.] + +3-1/2 m. beyond is San Gavino di Carbini, pop. 770, height 2238 ft., a poor +miserable village, where there existed in 1365 a sect of socialists, +with whom even the women and children were held in common, and by whom +were committed frightful abominations. + +[Headnote: LEVIE.] + +30 m. from Solenzara and 16 m. from Sartene is Levie, consisting of +various hamlets. Inn where the coach, running between this and Sartene, +stops. Pop, 2040, height 2238 ft This village, easily approached, is +situated among mountains abounding with game. It commands superb views, +and makes in April a very pleasant residence. In winter it is rather +cold. On the road between Levie and Santa Lucia di Tallano, 5-1/2 m. from +the Col d'Aja Vignarsa, 2408 ft., are seen the valley of the Rizzanese +and the Gulfs of Valinco and Ajaccio. On the grassy table lands of the +Col d'Aja are many rare flowers, among others a species of red +gladiolus. + +[Headnote: S. LUCIA DI TALLANO.] + +5-1/2 m. W. from Levie and 11-1/4 from Sartene is Santa Lucia di Tallano, +pop. 1300, Inn where the Sartene and Levie coach stops. S. Lucia is built +in terraces on the hills rising from the Fiumicicoli. Church 14th cent. The +wines grown in this neighbourhood command good prices in the Corsican +market. + +Below, on the Fiumicicoli, is a hot sulphurous spring. On the way down +to the river by the sides of the Point Campolaccia, near a place called +Campolajo, is beautiful hornblende, page 27. + +From Santa Lucia the road leads southwards by the Rizzanese to Sartene, +p. 27. + + + + +SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF CORSICA. + +It is not known who the original inhabitants of Corsica were. The +Phocaeans of Ionia were the first civilised people that established +settlements in Corsica. About the year 560 B.C. they landed on the +island, and founded at the mouth of the Tavignano the city of Aleria, +which after a short occupation they were compelled to abandon. After an +interval of a few years they again returned, rebuilt Aleria, which they +fortified, and endeavoured to maintain their ground against the natives. +After a struggle of some years they were again compelled to leave the +island. The next foreign occupants of Corsica were the Tuscans, who +founded the city of Nicaea, but they in their turn were compelled to give +way before the growing maritime power of the Carthaginians, whose +jurisdiction in the island was unquestioned till the beginning of the +first Punic War. On that occasion the Romans sent out a fleet, drove the +Carthaginians from the island, and exacted at least a nominal homage +from the native population. They did not, however, fully establish their +power here till about thirty years later, and even then rebellions and +revolts were of constant occurrence. + +[Headnote: ROMAN COLONIES.] + +The first step made towards the real subjugation of the island was the +establishment of the two colonies on its eastern coast-that of Aleria by +Sulla and that of Mariana by Marius. In the time of the emperors the +island had fallen into disrepute among the Romans, by whom it was used +chiefly as a place of banishment for political offenders. One of the +most distinguished of these sufferers was the younger Seneca, who spent +in this island eight years of banishment ending with 49 A.D. + +[Headnote: ARMS.] On the downfall of the Roman empire in the West, +Corsica passed into the hands of the Vandals. These barbarians were +driven out by Belisarius, but after his death, 565 A.D., the resistless +hordes of Attila once more gained possession of the island. Since that +period it has successively owned the dominion of the Goths, the +Saracens, the Pisans and the Genoese. The impress of the last is to be +found in the style of the church architecture, while the armorial crest +of the island, a Moor's head, with a band across the brow, dates from +the expedition of the Saracen king, Sanza Ancisa. + +The patroness of Corsica, the "Protectrice de la Corse," is Santa +Devota; who is also the patron saint of Monaco. The Corsicans often +style the Virgin Mary simply La Santa; and in their common exclamation +Santa! Maria is understood. + +[Headnote: SAMPIERO.] + +Among the most renowned and intrepid patriots in the struggle of the +Corsicans to free themselves from the Genoese was Sampiero, born of poor +parents towards the end of the 15th cent, in Dominicacci, one of the +hamlets which compose Bastelica. His house having been burned down by +the Genoese, the inhabitants in the 18th cent. constructed a new one on +the same site, on which Mr. Wyse, an Irishman, affixed a tablet with an +inscription in 1855, expressing his admiration of the man. After serving +with great distinction in the armies of the Italian princes and in those +of Francis I., King of France, Sampiero returned to Corsica in 1547 and +married the fair Vanina, heiress of Ornano, belonging to one of the +oldest families in the island. + +Shortly after the marriage the Corsicans, led by Sampiero, revolted +against the tyranny of the Banking Company of St. George of Genoa, and, +assisted by the French, under General Thermes, overthrew them after six +years of hard fighting and much bloodshed, in which Sampiero and his +peasant army bore by far the greatest share. All, however, they had +gained at such immense sacrifice was completely lost to them by the +treaty of Chateau Cambresis, 1559, by which France agreed to restore +Corsica to Genoa. Sampiero and his family had to leave the island. Such +was the virulent and implacable hatred Sampiero bore to the Genoese, +that he with his own hand, in cold blood, strangled mercilessly his +trembling wife three years after (1562) in Marseilles, for having +allowed herself, in his absence, to be persuaded to make an arrangement +with the Genoese to save the patrimony of her children. Sampiero escaped +with impunity, although he buried his murdered wife publicly, and with +pomp, in the church of St. Francis at Marseilles. + +Antonio Francesco, the younger son, who was, when a mere child, with his +mother when she was murdered, was afterwards assassinated at Rome by a +Frenchman, whom he had insulted while playing at cards. + +On the 12th June 1564 Sampiero landed at the Gulf of Valinco with a band +of 20 Corsicans and 25 Frenchmen, to make another desperate attempt to +free Corsica from the hated yoke. After a five years' life-and-death +struggle, fired by a feverish thirst for revenge, the Corsicans had to +yield to the might of Genoa, supported by well-drilled Italian, German +and Spanish mercenaries, commanded by their greatest generals, Doria, +Centurione and Spinola, and aided by a powerful fleet. + +On the 17th January 1567 Sampiero was slain in an ambuscade laid for him +in the defile of Cauro, into which he had been led by forged letters +brought him by the monk Ambrosius of Bastelica. + +His elder son Alfonso d'Ornano continued the struggle after his father's +death, till the exhausted state of Corsica compelled him to desist and +to accept a general amnesty proclaimed by the Genoese governor George +Doria in 1569. Alfonso d'Ornano was afterwards created "Marechal de +France." + +[Headnote: PASCAL PAOLI.] + +From 1755 the Corsicans, led by the brave Pascal Paoli, carried on the +struggle for their independence against the Genoese, who were +occasionally assisted by the French. On the 15th May 1768 the former +sold their presumed claims to the island to the French, who ended this +war of subjugation by the terrible battle of Ponte Nuovo, 9th May 1769. +On the llth of June Paoli left Porto-Vecchio for London; where, at the +instance of the Duke of Grafton, then prime minister of England, he +received an annual pension of L1200. + +After Corsica had been made one of the departments of France he was +invited in 1790, by the National Assembly, to take the supreme command +in the island. On his arrival at Paris (3d April 1790), on his way to +Corsica, he was feted as the Washington of Europe, and Lafayette was +constantly by his side; while, on his arrival at Marseilles, he was +received by a deputation, among whom was Napoleon. In July 1790 he +landed at Macinaggio, on the east side of Cap Corse. + +The execution of the king and the cruelties and excesses of the +Convention having shocked the philanthropic spirit of Paoli and +alienated his sympathies, he organised a revolt to separate Corsica from +France, and succeeded by the aid of the English fleet, 20th July 1794, +when Calvi, the last of the forts, surrendered. On the 10th of June 1794 +the Corsicans declared that they would unite their country to Great +Britain, but that it was to remain independent, and to be governed by a +viceroy according to their own constitution. + +The English, from ignorance, managed the affairs of the island so badly, +that when in 1796 Napoleon sent troops against them, they were joined by +the Corsicans, who together forced the English to leave the island. Not +only had a certain Gilbert Elliot been named viceroy instead of Paoli, +but this same man having written to the Government that it was necessary +for the safety of the English to remove Paoli from the island, George +III. wrote Paoli a letter inviting him to return to England and to his +court. It is suspected that Andrea Pozzo di Borgo, president of the +Council of State, under the short viceroyship of Elliot, influenced, for +his own ends or from jealousy, the English in Corsica against Paoli. + +Paoli lived twelve years more in London, died peacefully on 5th February +1807 at the age of 82, was buried in St. Pancras churchyard, and a small +monument to his memory was placed in Westminster Abbey. He bequeathed to +four professors of the intended Corte University salaries of L50 a year +each, but as it was never established the money was given to the Ecole +Paoli in Corte, attended by 120 pupils. + +Since the expulsion of the English, the French have remained in +undisturbed possession of Corsica. The English occupation lasted from +1794 to 1796. + +[Headnote: CHARACTER.] + +The Corsicans look to the Government for the improvement of their island +far more than to their own efforts, for they themselves are neither +industrious nor enterprising. The roads, railways, bridges and other +public works are constructed chiefly by Italian labourers. The women do +the drudgery both in their homes and on the fields, carrying great loads +on their heads, as the mules do on their backs; but bestow little labour +on the cleanliness of their children and dwellings, and do not make good +domestic servants. In many small towns women are the bread bakers and +assistant butchers. The villages, excepting in Cape Corse, are untidy. +The use of the bath is almost unknown to young and old, rich and poor. + +[Headnote: VENDETTA.] + +The tendency to take summary vengeance, called vendetta, still exists in +the villages; where the people having no social amusements, nothing to +read, nor any other resource than cards during the winter nights, are +apt to quarrel over trifles; which, fanned by their local petty +jealousies, assisted often by the generous nature of their wine, ripen +into deadly feuds. + +[Headnote: OAKS.] + +The staple food of the majority of the inhabitants, as well as of the +horses and mules, during a great part of the year, is the chestnut. For +domestic purposes it is mostly ground, when it costs only about half the +price of wheat flour, which is procured chiefly from Marseilles, Corsica +itself producing very little. The ease with which the harvest of +chestnuts is annually obtained tends to foster indolence and deaden +enterprise among the peasantry. The one great danger to which the +generous chestnut trees are exposed is a conflagration. Besides olives, +pines, beeches and chestnuts, there are also important forests of +evergreen oaks, the Quercus Ilex, called also the holm oak. It has +abundance of dark-green ovate leaves, mostly prickly at the margin; the +acorns are oblong on short stalks; the stem grows to the height of 80 +ft.; the wood is dark-brown and hard, weighing 70 lbs. the cubic foot, +while the same of the Quercus ruber or British oak weighs only 55 lbs., +and the tree attains a vast age. The cork oak, Quercus suber, grows +either singly among other trees or in groups, principally in the +southern parts of the island. The bark is of little commercial +importance. + +[Headnote: AGRICULTURE.] + + The inhabitants do not assist nature. Their seed potatoes are of an + inferior class, their fruit trees receive little attention, very few + of the vineyards are carefully cultivated, and their sheep, goats + and pigs are of poor breeds. Of late years many have taken to the + growing of lemons and citrons; which in a good year yield a very + handsome profit; but the harvest, through untimely frosts, is + precarious. The headquarters of this culture is Cape Corse. The + olive trees yield a more secure though less remunerative harvest. + That terrible scourge the phylloxera has got among the vineyards, + where it is committing its usual havoc. + + The drives and pedestrian excursions about Corsica are superb, + especially along the east side and up the centre by Sartene, Zicavo + and Ghisoni (p. 27), and the road between Calvi and Ponte alla + Leccia (p. 20). There are inns in all the large villages, though the + only good and comfortable hotels are in Ajaccio. + +[Headnote: FORESTHOUSES.] + + Enterprising tourists wishing to explore the great forests and to + scale the mountains should endeavour to procure letters of + introduction from the chief forestal authorities at Ajaccio, Corte, + Bastia or Calvi to the occupants of the Maisons Forestieres in the + forests to be visited. Although the gardes forestieres are generally + hospitable, they are afraid to follow their inclination without + orders from their superiors. For each day in these houses 7 to 8 + frs. should be given. + + + + +INDEX. + + +AGRICULTURE 41 +Aitone forest 18, 23 +Ajaccio 3 + Bankers 3 + Cab tariff 3 + Cathedral 5 + Climate 6 + Curiosities 6 + Drives 3 + Episcopal chapel 3 + Excursions 5 + Fountains 6 + Hotels 3 + Library 5 + Memorial chapel 5 + Mission 3 + Napoleon 4 + Picture gallery 5 + Pozzo di Borgo 4 + St. Pancras 6 + Sepulchral chapels 6 + Steamers 2 + Water-carriers 6 +Ajaccio to Bastia 7 +---- to Corte 7 +---- to Sartene 23 +---- to Vico and Evisa 22 +Albertacce 19 +Albuccia point 28 +Aleria 32 +---- to Corte 33 +---- to Puzzichello 33 +Alesani 33, 35 +Algajola 15 +Amphibole 27 +Apa 24 +---- to Zicavo 24 +Appietto 22 +Arcarotta col 33, 35 +Asco 19, 20 +Aullene 27 + +BALAGNA VALLEY 20 +Balogna 23 +Baracci baths 26 +Barcaggio 14 +Bastelica 24 +Bastia 10 +---- to Calvi 14 +---- to Cap Corse 11 +---- rail to Aleria 34 +Baths of Baracci 26 +---- of Caldaniccia 6 +---- of Guagno 23 +---- of Guitera 25 +---- of Orezza 34 +---- of Pietrapola 28, 32 +---- of Puzzichello 33 +Bavella col 26, 31, 36 +Belgodere 21 +---- to Olmi-Capella 21 +---- to Tartagine forest 21 +Bettianella lake 9 +Bevinco 10 +Bianca bocca 22 +Bicchisano 26 +Biguglia lake 10 +Bocca Melza 16 +Bocognano 7 +Bonifacio 30 + Caves 31 + Charles V. 30 + Napoleon 30 +Bonifacio to Bastia 31 +Borgo 10 +Botticella 14 +Brando cave 10, 12 +Brustico 35 + +CALACUCCIA 19 +Calasima 19 +Calcatoggio 17 +Caldanella 17 +Caldaniccia 6 +Calenzana 22 +Calenzana 15 +Calvi 15 +---- to Ajaccio 16 +---- to Bastia 20 +Campo 25 +Cap Corse 11 +Capella mount 27 +Capronale col 16 +Cargese 17 +Cargiaca 27 +Carrosaccia 6 +Casabianca 34 +Casabianda 32 +Casamaccioli 19 +Casamozza 34 +Cassalabriva 26 +Castagneto 33, 35 +Castagniccia 35 +Castellaccio col 16 +Castello punta 24 +Castiglione 20 +Cauro 23 +---- to Bastelica 24 +Celaccia col 26 +Cervione 33, 35 +Character 40 +Chestnut trees 1, 41 +Chidazzo 18 +Cineraggia mount 21 + bocca 22 +Cinto mount 1, 19, 20 +Climate 2 +Coast lakes 10, 31, 32 +Corona mount 19, 21 +Corsican arms 38 +---- character 40 +---- dimensions 1 +---- patroness 38 +Corscia 19 +Corte 8 +---- to Aleria 8 +---- to Mt. Rotondo 8 +Coscione mount 25 +Cotone 33, 35 +Cozzano 27 +Cristinacce 17 +Cuculla mount 18 + +DENTE CAPO 21 +Diana lake 32 +Dominicacci 24 +Don Giovanni mount 27 + +ELSE VALLEY 24 +Erbajo col 8, 16 +Erbalunga 12 +Ersa 14 +Escutcheon 38 +Evergreen oaks 41 +Evisa 18, 23 +---- to Albertacce 18 + +FELCE 35 +Feliceto 21, 22 +Fium Orbo source 28 +Folelli 33 +---- to Piedicroce 33 +Francardo bridge 9, 20 +Frasseto 24, 25 + +GALERIA 16 +---- to forests of Filosorma 16 +Ghisonaccia 32 +---- to Ghisoni 29 +Ghisoni 29 +---- to Ghisonaccia 29 +Giraglia island 14 +Golo source 19 +Gozzi mount 22 +Granace col 25 +Grosso mount 21 +Guagno baths 23 +Guitera baths 25 + +HISTORY 37 +Houses of shelter 41. See also under "Maison." + +ILE ROUSSE 15 +Incudine mount 25 +Inzecca 29 +Isolaccio 28 + +KYRIE ELEISON 28 + +LACCIOLA COL 17 +La Piana 17 +Larone col 26, 36 +Lavatoggio 21 +Leone coronato 30 +Levie 26, 32, 37 +Lonca valley 16 +Lozzi 19 +Lugo 8 +Lugo di Nazza 32 +Lumio 15 +Luri 12 + +MACINAGGIO 13, 39 +Maddalena isle 25 +Maison Aitone 18 +---- Alza 36 +---- Arghiavara 36 +---- Ballatojo 36 +---- Bavella 36 +---- Canareccia 28 +---- Castellaccio 18 +---- Castelluccio 36 +---- Ghiraldino 28 +---- Marmano 28 +---- Ometa 16 +---- Popaja 19 +---- Rocchio-Pinzuto 36 +---- S. Antoine 28 +---- Sciattarina 18 +---- Scrivano 28 +---- Tagnone 18 +---- Zipitoli 24 +Manganella col 9 +Mariana 34 +Marmano forest 28 +Menta col 24 +Moltifao 20 +Moor's head 38 +Morosaglia 35 +Morsaglia 14 +Mouflon 2 +Muchieto 33, 35 + +NAPOLEON 4, 26, 30 +Nelson 26 +Nino lake 19 +Niolo 19 +Nonza 12, 14 + +OLIVESE 27 +Olive trees 20 +Olmeto 26 +Olmi-Capella 21 +Ometa ilex forest 16 +Oninanda col 20 +Orezza spa 34 +Oro mount 1 +Ortale 33, 35 + +PADRO MOUNT 1, 21 +Padulella 33 +Pagliorba mount 1 +Palasca 22 +Palneca 28 +Pancheraccia 33 +Paoli 39 +Patron Saint 38 +Pecorile 14 +Perticato forest 16 +Pertusato mount 31 +Petrella col 19 +Piano 34 +Piedicroce 34, 9, 35 +---- to Prunete 35 +Pietrapola baths 28, 32 +Pines 7 +Pino 12, 14 +Pinus Laricio 7 +Pinus Pinaster 7 +Poggio di Nazza 32 +Pont Diable 20 +Pont du Golo 34 +Ponte alla Leccia 9, 22 +---- to Calvi 20 +---- to Piedicroce 34 +Ponteniello forest 24 +Ponte Novo 9, 22 +Popolasca 20 +Porri 34 +Porta 34 +Porto 16 +---- to Evisa 18 +---- to Ponte Francardo 18 +Portopollo 32 +Porto-Vecchio 31 +Prato col 35 +Propriano 26 +---- to Solenzara 26 +Prunelli source 28 +Prunete 33, 35 +---- to Alesani 33 + +QUERCUS ILEX 41 + +RAPARA COL 28 +Renoso mount 7, 24 +Retto mount 19 +Rogliano 13 +Rotondo mount 1, 8 + +SAGONA 17, 23 +---- to Aitone forest 17 +---- to Vico 23 +St. Antoine col 23 +---- Bernardino col 14 +---- Colombano col 22 +---- Devota 38 +---- Florent 14 +---- Georges col 24 +---- Gavino di Carbini 37 +---- Lucia di Tallano 26, 27, 32, 37 +---- Lucie col 12 +---- Maria Siche 24 +---- Nicolao 33 +---- Pietro mount 35 +---- Sebastien col 22 +---- Severa 12 +Salario fountain 6 +Sampiero 24, 38 +Sartene 27 +---- to Bonifacio 30 +---- to Vivario 27 +Scala di Santa Regina 10 +Scozzolatojo col 29 +Scrivano col 28 +Sea-urchins 22 +Sebastien col 17 +Seneca's tower 12 +Serra col 14 +Serraggio 8, 33 +Sevi col 17 +Silvareccio 34 +Solenzara 31 +---- to Sartene 36 +---- to Zonza 31 +Sollacaro 26 +Sorba col 29 +Speloncato 21 +Spelunca 18 +Sposata 25 +Stazzona 34 +Steamers 2, 10, 11 +Stretta 35 + +TACA FOREST 27 +Tafonato mount 16, 18 +Taravo source 28 +Tartagine forest 21 +Teghime col 14 +Theodore Neuhoff 32 +Torre all'Osse 12 +Traunato mount 20 +Treccio ilex forest 16 + +UCCIANI BRIDGE 7 +Uomo di Cagna 30 + +VADINA 8 +Valdoniello forest 18, 23 +Vanina 25, 38 +Vecchio source 28 +Vendetta 40 +Venzolasca 34 +Verde col 28 +Verde forest 28 +Vergio col 18 +Vescovato 34 +---- to Porta 34 +Vico 23 +Ville 21 +Vivario 8, 29 +---- to Pietrapola 8 +---- to Sartene 27 +Vizzavona 7 + +WINES 2, 11 +Wyse, W., 24 + +ZECAVO 25 +Zicavo 25, 27, 28 +Zonza 26, 31, 36 + + +THE END. + + + + +Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, _Edinburgh + + + + + * * * * * + + + + +Errors and Uncertainties noted by Transcriber + +When the Index and body text disagreed on spelling, the form shown in +the General Map was used. The abbreviation "ft" has been regularized to +"ft." where full stop was missing or invisible. + +_Inconsistencies (as alphabetized in Index, where applicable)_ + +Between the 51st and 53d kilometre stones +60 kilometres-stone, + _inconsistency in original_ +Calenzana (pg 15) + _Index entry reads "Calenzani", but body text has "Calenzana"; it + appears to refer to the same place as the earlier Index entry + "Calenzana"_ +Granace (col) + _body text "Garanace", Index "Garance", Map "Granace". The Map's + spelling was used because it can be found in modern sources._ +PONTE NOVO. The site of the disastrous battle ... +The Ponte Nuovo is distinctly ... +... the terrible battle of Ponte Nuovo ... +[Index] Ponte Novo 9, 22 + _the General Map and the town description (p. 9) use the "Novo" + spelling; other references (p. 22, 39) use "Nuovo". The Index as + printed had parallel entries for each spelling, omitting p. 39_ +Col St. Sebastien [text and Index] +Col Sebastien [text and Index] + _variant forms of same name_ +Zicavo ... 2385 ft. +Zicavo, 2445 ft. + _same place: map has 2345 ft._ + +_Errors_ + +[Contents] +Ajaccio to Sartene + _text reads "Sartene"_ +Portotorres, at the north-west extremity of Sicily + _error for Sardinia_ +and other 2-1/2 m. the village of Levie + _error for "and another"?_ +S. Lucia de Tallano, on the highroad to Aullene + _text reads "Lucie"_ +Ortia, 2638 ft., pop. 400, hidden among chestnut trees + _text reads "chesnut trees"_ +From 1755 the Corsicans, led by the brave Pascal Paoli + _text reads "Corscians"_ +Quercus Ilex + _text and Index: should be "Quercus ilex"_ +[Index] +(Ajaccio) to Corte + _page reference missing from text_ + _may be intentional: Corte is on Ajaccio-Bastia itinerary_ +Corscia + _not an error here: "Corscia" is the name of a village_ +Levie + _text has "Levie 37, 32" only_ + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARY THROUGH CORSICA*** + + +******* This file should be named 19882.txt or 19882.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/9/8/8/19882 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://www.gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: +https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + diff --git a/19882.zip b/19882.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d886c35 --- /dev/null +++ b/19882.zip diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..31023e6 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #19882 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/19882) |
