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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Canyon Voyage, by Frederick S. Dellenbaugh
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Canyon Voyage
+       The Narrative of the Second Powell Expedition down the
+       Green-Colorado River from Wyoming, and the Explorations
+       on Land, in the Years 1871 and 1872
+
+Author: Frederick S. Dellenbaugh
+
+Release Date: February 25, 2007 [EBook #20667]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A CANYON VOYAGE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Audrey Longhurst and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+By F. S. DELLENBAUGH
+
+
+The North-Americans of Yesterday
+
+     A Comparative Study of North-American Indian Life, Customs,
+     and Products, on the Theory of the Ethnic Unity of the Race.
+     8º. Fully illustrated. net, $4.00
+
+
+The Romance of the Colorado River
+
+     A Complete Account of the Discovery and of the Explorations
+     from 1540 to the Present Time, with Particular Reference to
+     the Two Voyages of Powell through the Line of the Great
+     Canyons.
+
+     8º. Fully illustrated. net, $3.50
+
+
+Breaking the Wilderness
+
+     The Story of the Conquest of the Far West, from the Wanderings
+     of Cabeza de Vaca to the First Descent of the Colorado by
+     Powell, and the Completion of the Union Pacific Railway, with
+     Particular Account of the Exploits of Trappers and Traders.
+
+     8º. Fully illustrated. net, $3.50
+
+
+A Canyon Voyage
+
+     The Narrative of the Second Powell Expedition down the
+     Green-Colorado River from Wyoming, and the Explorations on
+     Land in the Years 1871 and 1872.
+
+     8º. Fully illustrated. net, $3.50
+
+
+G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS
+NEW YORK     LONDON
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon
+
+Looking south from the Kaibab Plateau, North Rim, near the head of
+Bright Angel Creek, the canyon of which is seen in the foreground. The
+San Francisco Mountains are in the distance. On the South Rim to the
+right, out of the picture, is the location of the Hotel Tovar. The
+width of the canyon at the top in this region is about twelve miles,
+with a depth of near 6000 feet on the north side, and over 5000 on the
+south. Total length, including Marble Canyon division, 283 miles.
+
+Sketch made in colour on the spot by F. S. Dellenbaugh, June 4, 1903.]
+
+
+
+
+                         A Canyon Voyage
+
+The Narrative of the Second Powell Expedition down the Green-Colorado
+          River from Wyoming, and the Explorations on
+                Land, in the Years 1871 and 1872
+
+
+                               By
+
+                   Frederick S. Dellenbaugh
+       Artist and Assistant Topographer of the Expedition
+
+
+   "Come on, sir; here's the place. Stand still. How fearful
+   And dizzy 't is to cast one's eyes so low!"
+       _King Lear._
+
+
+                   With Fifty Illustrations
+
+
+                    G. P. Putnam's Sons
+                    New York and London
+                    The Knickerbocker Press
+                    1908
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1908
+by
+FREDERICK S. DELLENBAUGH
+
+
+The Knickerbocker Press, New York
+
+
+
+
+TO
+H. O. D.
+MY COMPANION
+ON THE
+VOYAGE OF LIFE.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+This volume presents the narrative, from my point of view, of an
+important government expedition of nearly forty years ago: an expedition
+which, strangely enough, never before has been fully treated. In fact in
+all these years it never has been written about by any one besides
+myself, barring a few letters in 1871 from Clement Powell, through his
+brother, to the Chicago _Tribune_, and an extremely brief mention by
+Major Powell, its organiser and leader, in a pamphlet entitled _Report
+of Explorations in 1873 of the Colorado of the West and its
+Tributaries_ (Government Printing Office, 1874). In my history, _The
+Romance of the Colorado River_, of which this is practically volume two,
+I gave a synopsis, and in several other places I have written in
+condensed form concerning it; but the present work for the first time
+gives the full story.
+
+In 1869, Major Powell made his famous first descent of the
+Green-Colorado River from the Union Pacific Railway in Wyoming to the
+mouth of the Virgin River in Nevada, a feat of exploration unsurpassed,
+perhaps unequalled, on this continent. Several of the upper canyons had
+been before penetrated, but a vague mystery hung over even these, and
+there was no recorded, or even oral, knowledge on the subject when
+Powell turned his attention to it. There was a tale that a man named
+James White had previously descended through the great canyons, but Mr.
+Robert Brewster Stanton has thoroughly investigated this and definitely
+proven it to be incorrect. Powell's first expedition was designed as an
+exploration to cover ten months, part of which was to be in winter
+quarters; circumstances reduced the time to three. It was also more or
+less of a private venture with which the Government of the United States
+had nothing to do. It became necessary to supplement it then by a second
+expedition, herein described, which Congress supported, with, of course,
+Major Powell in charge, and nominally under the direction of the
+Smithsonian Institution, of which Professor Henry was then Secretary and
+Professor Baird his able coadjutor, the latter taking the deeper
+interest in this venture. Powell reported through the Smithsonian; that
+was about all there was in the way of control.
+
+The material collected by this expedition was utilised in preparing the
+well-known report by Major Powell, _Exploration of the Colorado River of
+the West, 1869-1872_, the second party having continued the work
+inaugurated by the first and enlarged upon it, but receiving no credit
+in that or any other government publication.
+
+As pointed out in the text of this work, a vast portion of the basin of
+the Colorado was a complete blank on the maps until our party
+accomplished its end; even some of the most general features were before
+that not understood. No canyon above the Virgin had been recorded
+topographically, and the physiography was unknown. The record of the
+first expedition is one of heroic daring, and it demonstrated that the
+river could be descended throughout in boats, but unforeseen obstacles
+prevented the acquisition of scientific data which ours was specially
+planned to secure in the light of the former developments. The map, the
+hypsometric and hydrographic data, the geologic sections and geologic
+data, the photographs, ethnography, and indeed about all the first
+information concerning the drainage area in question were the results of
+the labours of the second expedition. Owing, perhaps, to Major Powell's
+considering our work merely in the line of routine survey, no special
+record, as mentioned above, was ever made of the second expedition. We
+inherited from the first a plat of the river itself down to the mouth of
+the Paria, which, according to Professor Thompson, was fairly good, but
+we did not rely on it; from the mouth of the Paria to Catastrophe Rapid,
+the point below Diamond Creek where the Howlands and Dunn separated from
+the boat party, a plat that was broken in places. This was approximately
+correct as far as Kanab Canyon, though not so good as above the Paria.
+From the Kanab Canyon, where we ended our work with the boats, to the
+mouth of the Virgin we received fragments of the course owing to the
+mistake made in dividing the notes at the time of the separation; a
+division decided on because each group thought the other doomed to
+destruction. Thus Howland took out with him parts of both copies which
+were destroyed by the Shewits when they killed the men. After Howland's
+departure, the Major ran in the course to the mouth of the Virgin.
+Professor Thompson was confident that our plat of the course, which is
+the basis of all maps to-day, is accurate from the Union Pacific Railway
+in Wyoming to Catastrophe Rapid, for though we left the river at the
+Kanab Canyon, we were able by our previous and subsequent work on land
+to verify the data of the first party and to fill in the blanks, but he
+felt ready to accept corrections below Catastrophe Rapid to the Virgin.
+
+For a list of the canyons, height of walls, etc., I must refer to the
+appendix in my previous volume. While two names cover the canyon from
+the Paria to the Grand Wash, the gorge is practically one with a total
+length of 283 miles. I have not tried to give geological data for these
+are easily obtainable in the reports of Powell, Dutton, Gilbert,
+Walcott, and others, and I lacked space to introduce them properly. In
+fact I have endeavored to avoid a mere perfunctory record, full of data
+well stated elsewhere. While trying to give our daily experiences and
+actual camp life in a readable way, I have adhered to accuracy of
+statement. I believe that any one who wishes to do so can use this book
+as a guide for navigating the river as far as Kanab Canyon. I have not
+relied on memory but have kept for continual reference at my elbow not
+only my own careful diary of the journey, but also the manuscript diary
+of Professor Thompson, and a typewritten copy of the diary of John F.
+Steward as far as the day of his departure from our camp. I have also
+consulted letters that I wrote home at the time and to the Buffalo
+_Express_, and a detailed draft of events up to the autumn of 1871 which
+I prepared in 1877 when all was still vividly fresh in mind. In
+addition, I possess a great many letters which Professor Thompson wrote
+me up to within a few weeks of his death (July, 1906), often in reply to
+questions I raised on various points that were not clear to me. Each
+member of the party I have called by the name familiarly used on the
+expedition, for naturally there was no "Mistering" on a trip of this
+kind. Powell was known throughout the length and breadth of the Rocky
+Mountain Region as "the Major," while Thompson was quite as widely known
+as "Prof." Some of the geographic terms, like Dirty Devil River, Unknown
+Mountains, etc., were those employed before permanent names were
+adopted. In my other books I have used the term Amerind for American
+Indian, and I intend to continue its use, but in the pages of this
+volume, being a narrative, and the word not having been used or known to
+us at that time, it did not seem exactly appropriate.
+
+Some readers may wish to provide themselves with full maps of the course
+of the river, and I will state that the U. S. Geological Survey has
+published map-sheets each 20 by 16-1/2 inches, of the whole course of
+the Green-Colorado. These sheets are sent to any person desiring them
+who remits the price, five cents the sheet, by post-office money order
+addressed: "Director U. S. Geological Survey, Washington, D. C.," with
+the names of the sheets wanted. The names of the seventeen sheets
+covering the canyoned part are: Green River(?), Ashley, Yampa,(?) Price
+River, East Tavaputs, San Rafael, La Sal, Henry Mountains, Escalante,
+Echo Cliffs, San Francisco Mountains, Kaibab, Mount Trumbull, Chino,
+Diamond Creek, St. Thomas, and Camp Mohave.
+
+Several parties have tried the descent through the canyons since our
+voyage. Some have been successful, some sadly disastrous. The river is
+always a new problem in its details, though the general conditions
+remain the same.
+
+Major Powell was a man of prompt decision, with a cool, comprehensive,
+far-reaching mind. He was genial, kind, never despondent, always
+resolute, resourceful, masterful, determined to overcome every obstacle.
+To him alone belongs the credit for solving the problem of the great
+canyons, and to Professor Thompson that for conducting most successfully
+the geographic side of the work under difficulties that can hardly be
+appreciated in these days when survey work is an accepted item of
+government expenditure and Congress treats it with an open hand.
+
+I am indebted to Mr. Robert Brewster Stanton, who completed the Brown
+Expedition triumphantly, for valuable information and photographs and
+for many interesting conversations comparing his experiences with ours;
+to the Geological Survey for maps and for the privilege of using
+photographs from negatives in the possession of the Survey; and to Mr.
+John K. Hillers for making most of the prints used in illustrating this
+book. My thanks are due to Brigadier-General Mackenzie, U. S. Engineers,
+for copies of rare early maps of the region embraced in our operations,
+now nearly impossible to obtain.
+
+In 1902 when I informed Major Powell that I was preparing my history of
+the Colorado River, he said he hoped that I would put on record the
+second trip and the men who were members of that expedition, which I
+accordingly did. He never ceased to take a lively interest in my
+affairs, and the year before he wrote me: "I always delight in your
+successes and your prosperity, and I ever cherish the memory of those
+days when we were on the great river together." Professor Thompson only
+a month before he died sent me a letter in which he said: "You are heir
+to all the Colorado material and I am getting what I have together."
+These sentiments cause me to feel like an authorised and rightful
+historian of the expedition with which I was so intimately connected,
+and I sincerely hope that I have performed my task in a way that would
+meet the approval of my old leader and his colleague, as well as of my
+other comrades. One learns microscopically the inner nature of his
+companions on a trip of this kind, and I am happy to avow that a finer
+set of men could not have been selected for the trying work which they
+accomplished with unremitting good-nature and devotion, without
+pecuniary reward. Professor Thompson possessed invaluable qualities for
+this expedition: rare balance of mind, great cheerfulness, and a sunny
+way of looking on difficulties and obstacles as if they were mere
+problems in chess. His foresight and resourcefulness were phenomenal,
+and no threatening situation found him without some good remedy.
+
+Some of the illustrations in Powell's _Report_ are misleading, and I
+feel it my duty to specially note three of them. The one opposite page 8
+shows boats of the type we used on the second voyage with a middle
+cabin. The boats of the first expedition had cabins only at the bow and
+stern. The picture of the wreck at Disaster Falls, opposite page 27, is
+nothing like the place, and the one opposite page 82 gives boats in
+impossible positions, steered by rudders. A rudder is useless on such a
+river. Long steering sweeps were used.
+
+Time's changes have come to pass. You may now go by a luxurious Santa Fé
+train direct to the south rim of the greatest chasm of the series, the
+Grand Canyon, and stop there in a beautiful hotel surrounded by every
+comfort, yet when we were making the first map no railway short of
+Denver existed and there was but one line across the Rocky Mountains.
+Perhaps before many more years are gone we will see Mr. Stanton's
+Denver, Colorado Canyon, and Pacific Railway accomplished through the
+canyons, and if I then have not "crossed to Killiloo" I will surely
+claim a free pass over the entire length in defiance of all
+commerce-regulating laws.
+
+Frederick S. Dellenbaugh.
+Cragsmoor,
+August, 1908
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+     A River Entrapped--Acquaintance not Desired--Ives Explores the
+     Lower Reaches--Powell the Conqueror--Reason for a Second
+     Descent--Congressional Appropriation--Preparation--The Three
+     Boats--The Mighty Wilderness--Ready for the Start        1
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+     Into the Wilderness--The Order of Sailing--Tobacco for the
+     Indians Comes Handy--A Lone Fisherman and Some Trappers--Jack
+     Catches Strange Fish--The Snow-clad Uintas in View--A Larder
+     Full of Venison--Entrance into Flaming Gorge                9
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+     The First Rapid--Horseshoe and Kingfisher Canyons--A Rough
+     Entrance into Red Canyon--Capsize of the _Nell_--The Grave of
+     a Bold Navigator--Discovery of a White Man's Camp--Good-bye to
+     Frank--At the Gate of Lodore                               19
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+     Locked in the Chasm of Lodore--Rapids with Railway Speed--A
+     Treacherous Approach to Falls of Disaster--Numerous Loadings
+     and Unloadings--Over the Rocks with Cargoes--Library Increased
+     by _Putnam's Magazine_--Triplet Falls and Hell's Half
+     Mile--Fire in Camp--Exit from Turmoil to Peace             34
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+     A Remarkable Echo--Up the Canyon of the Yampa--Steward and
+     Clem Try a Moonlight Swim--Whirlpool Canyon and Mountain
+     Sheep--A Grand Fourth-of-July Dinner--A Rainbow-Coloured
+     Valley--The Major Proceeds in Advance--A Split Mountain with
+     Rapids a Plenty--Enter a Big Valley at Last                49
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+     A Lookout for Redskins--The River a Sluggard--A
+     Gunshot!--Someone Comes!--The Tale of a Mysterious Light--How,
+     How! from Douglas Boy--At the Mouth of the Uinta--A Tramp to
+     Goblin City and a Trip down White River on a Raft--A
+     Waggon-load of Supplies from Salt Lake by Way of Uinta
+     Agency--The Major Goes Out to Find a Way In                61
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+     On to Battle--A Concert Repertory--Good-bye to Douglas
+     Boy--The Busy, Busy Beaver--In the Embrace of the Rocks Once
+     More--A Relic of the Cliff-Dwellers--Low Water and Hard
+     Work--A Canyon of Desolation--Log-cabin Cliff--Rapids and
+     Rapids and Rapids--A Horse, whose Horse?--Through Gray Canyon
+     to the Rendezvous                                          72
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+     Return of the Major--Some Mormon Friends--No Rations at the
+     Elusive Dirty Devil--Captain Gunnison's Crossing--An All-night
+     Vigil for Cap. and Clem--The Land of a Thousand Cascades--A
+     Bend Like a Bow-knot and a Canyon Labyrinthian--Cleaving an
+     Unknown World--Signs of the Oldest Inhabitant--Through the
+     Canyon of Stillwater to the Jaws of the Colorado           94
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+     A Wonderland of Crags and Pinnacles--Poverty Rations--Fast and
+     Furious Plunging Waters--Boulders Boom along the
+     Bottom--Chilly Days and Shivering--A Wild Tumultuous Chasm--A
+     Bad Passage by Twilight and a Tornado With a Picture
+     Moonrise--Out of One Canyon into Another--At the Mouth of the
+     Dirty Devil at Last                                       115
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+     The _Cañonita_ Left Behind--Shinumo Ruins--Troublesome Ledges
+     in the River--Alcoves and Amphitheatres--The Mouth of the San
+     Juan--Starvation Days and a Lookout for Rations--El Vado de
+     Los Padres--White Men Again--Given up for Lost--Navajo
+     Visitors--Peaks with a Great Echo--At the Mouth of the Paria
+                                                               135
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+     More Navajos Arrive with Old Jacob--The Lost Pack-train and a
+     Famished Guide--From Boat to Broncho--On to Kanab--Winter
+     Arrives--Wolf Neighbours too Intimate--Preparing for Geodetic
+     Work--Over the Kaibab to Eight-mile Spring--A Frontier
+     Town--Camp below Kanab--A Mormon Christmas Dance          152
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+     Reconnoitring and Triangulating--A Pai Ute New Year's
+     Dance--The Major Goes to Salt Lake--Snowy Days on the
+     Kaibab--At Pipe Spring--Gold Hunters to the Colorado--Visits
+     to the Uinkaret County--Craters and Lava--Finding the
+     Hurricane Ledge--An Interview with a Cougar--Back to Kanab
+                                                               174
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+     Off for the Unknown Country--A Lonely Grave--Climbing a
+     Hog-back to a Green Grassy Valley--Surprising a Ute
+     Camp--Towich-a-tick-a-boo--Following a Blind Trail--The
+     Unknown Mountains Become Known--Down a Deep Canyon--To the
+     Paria with the _Cañonita_--John D. Lee and Lonely Dell    195
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+     A Company of Seven--The _Nellie Powell_ Abandoned--Into Marble
+     Canyon--Vasey's Paradise--A Furious Descent to the Little
+     Colorado--A Mighty Fall in the Dismal Granite Gorge--Caught in
+     a Trap--Upside Down--A Deep Plunge and a Predicament--At the
+     Mouth of the Kanab                                        215
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+     A New Departure--Farewell to the Boats--Out to the World
+     Through Kanab Canyon--A Midnight Ride--At the Innupin
+     Picavu--Prof. Reconnoitres the Shewits Country--Winter
+     Quarters in Kanab--Making the Preliminary Map--Another New
+     Year--Across a High Divide in a Snow-storm--Down the Sevier in
+     Winter--The Last Summons                                  242
+
+
+Index                                                          269
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+                                                          FACING
+                                                            PAGE
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                    _Frontispiece_
+
+     Looking south from the Kaibab Plateau, North Rim, near the
+     head of Bright Angel Creek, the canyon of which is seen in the
+     foreground. The San Francisco Mountains are in the distance.
+     On the South Rim to the right, out of the picture, is the
+     location of the Hotel Tovar. The width of the canyon at top in
+     this region is about twelve miles, with a depth of near 6000
+     feet on the north side, and over 5000 on the south. Total
+     length, including Marble Canyon division, 283 miles.
+
+     Sketch made in colour on the spot by F. S. Dellenbaugh, June
+     4, 1903.
+
+
+The Toll                                                         1
+
+     Unidentified skeleton found April, 1906, by C. C. Spaulding in
+     the Grand Canyon 300 feet above the river, some miles below
+     Bright Angel trail. There were daily papers in the pocket of
+     the clothes of the early spring of 1900.
+
+     Photograph by Kolb Bros. 1906, Grand Canyon, Arizona.
+
+
+Red Canyon                                                       6
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Before the Start at Green River City, Wyoming                    9
+
+     The dark box open. Andy, Clem, Beaman, Prof. Steward, Cap.,
+     Frank, Jones, Jack, the Major, Fred, _Cañonita_, _Emma Dean_,
+     _Nellie Powell_.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Flaming Gorge                                                   17
+
+     The beginning of the Colorado River Canyons, N. E. Utah.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Horseshoe Canyon                                                21
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Red Canyon                                                      25
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Red Canyon                                                      28
+
+     Ashley Falls from below.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+In Red Canyon Park                                              29
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+The Head of the Canyon of Lodore                                34
+
+     Just inside the gate.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Canyon of Lodore                                                37
+
+     Low water.
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1874.
+
+
+The Heart of Lodore                                             40
+
+     F. S. Dellenbaugh.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Canyon of Lodore--Dunn's Cliff                                  43
+
+     2800 feet above river.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Canyon of Lodore                                                44
+
+     Jones, Hillers, Dellenbaugh.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Echo Park                                                       49
+
+     Mouth of Yampa River in foreground, Green River on right.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Whirlpool Canyon                                                54
+
+     Mouth of Bishop Creek--Fourth of July camp.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Split Mountain Canyon                                           59
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Canyon of Desolation                                            81
+
+     Steward.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Colorado River White Salmon                                     98
+
+     Photograph by the Denver, Colorado Canyon and Pacific Railway
+     Survey under Robert Brewster Stanton, 1889.
+
+
+Dellenbaugh Butte                                              102
+
+     Near mouth of San Rafael.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Labyrinth Canyon--Bowknot Bend                                 108
+
+     The great loop is behind the spectator.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Stillwater Canyon                                              110
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Cataract Canyon                                                119
+
+     Clement Powell.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Cataract Canyon                                                128
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Narrow Canyon                                                  133
+
+     Photograph by Best Expedition, 1891.
+
+
+Mouth of the Fremont River (Dirty Devil)                       135
+
+     Photograph by the Brown Expedition, 1889.
+
+
+Glen Canyon                                                    140
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Looking Down Upon Glen Canyon                                  142
+
+     Cut through homogeneous sandstone.
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Colo. Riv. Exp.
+
+
+Tom                                                            147
+
+     A typical Navajo. Tom became educated and no longer looked
+     like an Indian.
+
+     Photograph by Wittick.
+
+
+Glen Canyon                                                    149
+
+     Sentinel Rock--about 300 feet high.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               162
+
+     From Havasupai Point, South Rim, showing Inner Gorge.
+
+     From a sketch in colour by F. S. Dellenbaugh, 1907.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               168
+
+     From South Rim near Bright Angel Creek.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               174
+
+     From part way down south side above Bright Angel Creek.
+
+
+Winsor Castle, the Defensive House at Pipe Springs             186
+
+     Photograph by H. Arthur Pomroy, 1903.
+
+
+Little Zion Valley, or the Mookoontoweap, Upper Virgin River   186
+
+     Photograph by H. Arthur Pomroy, 1903.
+
+
+In the Unknown Country                                         195
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.
+
+
+Navajo Mountain From Near Kaiparowits Peak                     201
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.
+
+
+Tantalus Creek                                                 206
+
+     Tributary of Fremont River.
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers.
+
+
+Example of Lakes on the Aquarius Plateau                       211
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               215
+
+     Near mouth of Shinumo Creek. The river is in flood and the
+     water is "colorado."
+
+     Sketch made in colour on the spot by F. S. Dellenbaugh, July
+     26, 1907.
+
+
+Marble Canyon                                                  219
+
+     Thompson.
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.
+
+
+Canyon of the Little Colorado                                  222
+
+     Photograph by C. Barthelmess.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               224
+
+     From just below the Little Colorado.
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               227
+
+     Running the Sockdologer.
+
+     From a sketch afterwards by F. S. Dellenbaugh.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               232
+
+     From top of Granite, south side near Bright Angel Creek.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               238
+
+     Character of river in rapids.
+
+     Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh, 1907.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               242
+
+     At a rapid--low water.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               248
+
+     At the bottom near foot of Bass Trail.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               254
+
+     From north side near foot of Toroweap Valley, Uinkaret
+     District.
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               258
+
+     Storm effect from South Rim.
+
+
+
+
+MAPS
+
+
+A.
+     Map by the U. S. War Department, 1868. Supplied by the
+     courtesy of General Mackenzie, U. S. A., showing the knowledge
+     of the Colorado River basin just before Major Powell began
+     operations. The topography above the junction of the Green and
+     Grand is largely pictorial and approximate. The white space
+     from the San Rafael to the mouth of the Virgin is the unknown
+     country referred to in this volume which was investigated in
+     1871-72-73. Preliminary maps B, C, and D at pages 244-46, and
+     207 respectively, partly give the results of the work which
+     filled in this area.                                       95
+
+B.
+     Preliminary map of a portion of the southern part of the
+     unknown country indicated by blank space on Map A, at page 95,
+     showing the Hurricane Ledge, Uinkaret and Shewits Mountains
+     and the course of the Grand Canyon from the mouth of Kanab
+     Canyon to the Grand Wash. The Howlands and Dunn left the first
+     expedition at Catastrophe Rapid at the sharp bend a few miles
+     below the intersection of the river and longitude 113° 30',
+     climbed out to the north and were killed near Mt. Dellenbaugh.
+                                                               244
+
+C.
+     Preliminary map of a portion of the central part of the
+     unknown country indicated by the blank space on Map A, at page
+     95, showing the Kaibab Plateau, mouth of the Paria, Echo
+     Peaks, House Rock Valley and the course of part of Glen Canyon
+     and of Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon to the mouth of the
+     Kanab Canyon. El Vado is at the western intersection of the
+     37th parallel and the Colorado River, and Kanab is in the
+     upper left-hand corner of the map--just above the 37th
+     parallel which is the boundary between Utah and Arizona. The
+     words "Old Spanish Trail from Santa Fé to Los Angeles" near El
+     Vado were added in Washington and are incorrect. The old
+     Spanish trail crossed at Gunnison Crossing far north of this
+     point which was barely known before 1858.                 246
+
+D.
+     Preliminary map of a portion of the northern part of the
+     unknown country indicated by the blank space on Map A, at page
+     95, showing the course of part of Glen Canyon, the mouth of
+     the Fremont (Dirty Devil) River, the Henry (Unknown)
+     Mountains, and the trail of the first known party of white men
+     to cross this area. The Escalante River which was mistaken for
+     the Dirty Devil enters the Colorado just above the first
+     letter "o" of Colorado at the bottom of the map. The Dirty
+     Devil enters from the north at the upper right-hand side.
+                                                               207
+
+E.
+     Showing results of recent re-survey of part of the Grand
+     Canyon near Bright Angel Creek by the Geological Survey with
+     ample time for detail. Compare with Map C at page 246--the
+     south end of Kaibab Plateau.                              250
+
+
+
+
+A CANYON VOYAGE
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+     A River Entrapped--Acquaintance not Desired--Ives Explores the
+     Lower Reaches--Powell the Conqueror--Reason for a Second
+     Descent--Congressional Appropriation--Preparation--The Three
+     Boats--The Mighty Wilderness--Ready for the Start.
+
+
+The upper continuation of the Colorado River of the West is Green River
+which heads in the Wind River Mountains at Frémont Peak. From this range
+southward to the Uinta Mountains, on the southern boundary of Wyoming,
+the river flows through an open country celebrated in the early days of
+Western exploration and fur trading as "Green River Valley," and at that
+period the meeting ground and "rendezvous" of the various companies and
+organisations, and of free trappers. By the year 1840 the vast region
+west of the Missouri had been completely investigated by the trappers
+and fur-hunters in the pursuit of trade, with the exception of the
+Green-and-Colorado River from the foot of Green River Valley to the
+termination of the now famous Grand Canyon of Arizona. The reason for
+this exception was that at the southern extremity of Green River Valley
+the solid obstacle of the Uinta Range was thrown in an easterly and
+westerly trend directly across the course of the river, which, finding
+no alternative, had carved its way, in the course of a long geological
+epoch, through the foundations of the mountains in a series of gorges
+with extremely precipitous sides; continuous parallel cliffs between
+whose forbidding precipices dashed the torrent towards the sea. Having
+thus entrapped itself, the turbulent stream, by the configuration of the
+succeeding region, was forced to continue its assault on the rocks, to
+reach the Gulf, and ground its fierce progress through canyon after
+canyon, with scarcely an intermission of open country, for a full
+thousand miles from the beginning of its entombment, the entrance of
+Flaming Gorge, at the foot of the historical Green River Valley. Some
+few attempts had been made to fathom the mystery of this long series of
+chasms, but with such small success that the exploration of the river
+was given up as too difficult and too dangerous. Ashley had gone through
+Red Canyon in 1825 and in one of the succeeding winters of that period a
+party had passed through Lodore on the ice. These trips proved that the
+canyons were not the haunt of beaver, that the navigation of them was
+vastly difficult, and that no man could tell what might befall in those
+gorges further down, that were deeper, longer, and still more remote
+from any touch with the outer world. Indeed it was even reported that
+there were places where the whole river disappeared underground. The
+Indians, as a rule, kept away from the canyons, for there was little to
+attract them. One bold Ute who attempted to shorten his trail by means
+of the river, shortened it to the Happy Hunting Grounds immediately, and
+there was nothing in his fate to inspire emulation.
+
+The years then wore on and the Colorado remained unknown through its
+canyon division. Ives had come up to near the mouth of the Virgin from
+the Gulf of California in 1858, and the portion above Flaming Gorge,
+from the foot of Green River Valley, was fairly well known, with the
+Union Pacific Railway finally bridging it in Wyoming. One James White
+was picked up (1867) at a point below the mouth of the Virgin in an
+exhausted state, and it was assumed that he had made a large part of the
+terrible voyage on a raft, but this was not the case, and the Colorado
+River Canyons still waited for a conqueror. He came in 1869 in the
+person of John Wesley Powell, a late Major[1] in the Civil War, whose
+scientific studies had led him to the then territory of Colorado where
+his mind became fired with the intention of exploring the canyons. The
+idea was carried out, and the river was descended from the Union Pacific
+Railway crossing to the mouth of the Virgin, and two of the men went on
+to the sea. Thus the great feat was accomplished--one of the greatest
+feats of exploration ever executed on this continent.[2]
+
+[Illustration: The Toll.
+
+Unidentified skeleton found April 1906 by C. C. Spaulding in the Grand
+Canyon 300 feet above the river, some miles below Bright Angel trail.
+There were daily papers of the early spring of 1900 in the pocket of the
+clothes. Photograph 1906 by Kolb Bros.]
+
+Circumstances had rendered the data collected both insufficient and
+incomplete. A second expedition was projected to supply deficiencies and
+to extend the work; an expedition so well equipped and planned that time
+could be taken for the purely scientific side of the venture. This
+expedition was the first one under the government, the former expedition
+having been a more or less private enterprise. Congress made
+appropriations and the party were to start in 1870. This was found to be
+inexpedient for several reasons, among which was the necessity of
+exploring a route by which rations could be brought in to them at the
+mouth of what we called Dirty Devil River--a euphonious title applied by
+the men of the first expedition. This stream entered the Colorado at the
+foot of what is now known as Narrow Canyon, a little below the 38th
+parallel,--the Frémont River of the present geographies. Arrangements
+for supplies to be brought in to the second expedition at this place
+were made by the Major during a special visit to southern Utah for the
+purpose.
+
+By great good fortune I became a member of the second expedition. Scores
+of men were turned away, disappointed. The party was a small one, and it
+was full. We were to begin our voyage through the chain of great
+canyons, at the same point where the first expedition started, the point
+where the recently completed Union Pacific Railway crossed Green River
+in Wyoming, and we arrived there from the East early on the morning of
+April 29, 1871. We were all ravenous after the long night on the train
+and breakfast was the first consideration, but when this had
+re-established our energy we went to look for the flat car with our
+boats which had been sent ahead from Chicago. The car was soon found on
+a siding and with the help of some railroad employés we pushed it along
+to the eastern end of the bridge over Green River and there, on the
+down side, put the boats into the waters against whose onslaughts they
+were to be our salvation. It was lucky perhaps that we did not pause to
+ponder on the importance of these little craft; on how much depended on
+their staunchness and stability; and on our possible success in
+preventing their destruction. The river was high from melting snows and
+the current was swift though ordinarily it is not a large river at this
+point. This season had been selected for the start because of the high
+water, which would tide us over the rocks till tributary streams should
+swell the normal volume; for our boats were to be well loaded, there
+being no chance to get supplies after leaving. We had some trouble in
+making a landing where we wanted to, in a little cove on the east side
+about half a mile down, which had been selected as a good place for our
+preparatory operations. Here the three boats were hauled out to receive
+the final touches. They were named _Emma Dean_, _Nellie Powell_, and
+_Cañonita_. A space was cleared in the thick willows for our general
+camp over which Andy was to be master of ceremonies, at least so far as
+the banqueting division was concerned, and here he became initiated into
+the chemistry necessary to transform raw materials into comparatively
+edible food. But it was not so hard a task, for our supplies were flour,
+beans, bacon, dried apples, and dried peaches, tea and coffee, with, of
+course, plenty of sugar. Canned goods at that time were not common, and
+besides, would have been too heavy. Bread must be baked three times a
+day in the Dutch oven, a sort of skillet of cast iron, about three
+inches deep, ten or twelve inches in diameter, with short legs, and a
+cast-iron cover with a turned-up rim that would hold hot coals. We had
+no other bread than was made in this oven, or in a frying-pan, with
+saleratus and cream of tartar to raise it. It was Andy's first
+experience as a cook, though he had been a soldier in the Civil War, as
+had almost every member of the party except the youngest three, Clem,
+Frank, and myself, I being the youngest of all.
+
+For sleeping quarters we were disposed in two vacant wooden shanties
+about two hundred yards apart and a somewhat greater distance from the
+cook-camp. These shanties were mansions left over, like a group of
+roofless adobe ruins near by, from the opulent days of a year or two
+back when this place had been the terminus of the line during building
+operations. Little remained of its whilom grandeur; a section house, a
+railway station, a number of canvas-roofed domiciles, Field's
+"Outfitting Store," and the aforesaid shanties in which we secured
+refuge, being about all there was of the place. The region round about
+suggested the strangeness of the wild country below, through the midst
+of which led our trail. Arid and gravelly hills met the eye on all
+sides, accentuated by huge buttes and cliffs of brilliant colours,
+which in their turn were intensified by a clear sky of deep azure. In
+the midst of our operations, we found time to note the passing of the
+single express train each way daily. These trains seemed very friendly
+and the passengers gazed wonderingly from the windows at us and waved
+handkerchiefs. They perceived what we were about by the sign which I
+painted on cloth and fastened across the front of our house, which was
+near the track: "Powell's Colorado River Exploring Expedition." Above
+this was flying our general flag, the Stars and Stripes.
+
+The white boats were thoroughly gone over with caulking-iron and paint.
+Upon the decks of the cabins, canvas, painted green, was stretched in
+such a way that it could be unbuttoned at the edges on three sides and
+thrown back when we wanted to take off the hatches. When in place this
+canvas kept the water, perfectly, out of the hatch joints. Each boat had
+three compartments, the middle one being about four feet long, about
+one-fifth the length of the boat, which was twenty-two feet over the
+top. Two places were left for the rowers, before and abaft the middle
+compartment, while the steersman with his long oar thrust behind was to
+sit on the deck of the after-cabin, all the decks being flush with the
+gunwale, except that of the forward cabin the deck of which was carried
+back in a straighter line than the sheer of the boat and thus formed a
+nose to help throw off the waves. It was believed that when the hatches
+were firmly in place and the canvases drawn taut over the decks, even if
+a boat turned over, as was expected sometimes might be the case, the
+contents of these cabins would remain intact and dry. As so much
+depended on keeping our goods dry, and as we knew from Powell's previous
+experience that the voyage would be a wet one, everything was carefully
+put in rubber sacks, each having a soft mouth inside a double lip with a
+row of eyelets in each lip through which ran a strong cord. When the
+soft mouth was rolled up and the bag squeezed, the air was forced out,
+and the lips could be drawn to a bunch by means of the cord. When in
+this condition the bag could be soaked a long time in water without
+wetting the contents. Each rubber bag was encased in a heavy cotton one
+to protect it; in short, we spared no effort to render our provisions
+proof against the destroying elements. At first we put the bacon into
+rubber, but it spoiled the rubber and then we saw that bacon can take
+care of itself, nothing can hurt it anyhow, and a gunny-sack was all
+that was necessary. Though the boats were five feet in the beam and
+about twenty-four inches in depth, their capacity was limited and the
+supplies we could take must correspond. Each man was restricted to one
+hundred pounds of baggage, including his blankets. He had one rubber bag
+for the latter and another for his clothing and personal effects. In the
+provision line we had twenty-two sacks of flour of fifty pounds each.
+There was no whiskey, so far as I ever knew, except a small flask
+containing about one gill which I had been given with a ditty-bag for
+the journey. This flask was never drawn upon and was intact till needed
+as medicine in October. Smoking was abandoned, though a case of smoking
+tobacco was taken for any Indians we might meet. Our photographic outfit
+was extremely bulky and heavy, for the dry plate had not been invented.
+We had to carry a large amount of glass and chemicals, as well as
+apparatus.
+
+The numerous scientific instruments also were bulky, as they had to be
+fitted into wooden cases that were covered with canvas and then with
+rubber. Rations in quantity were not obtainable short of Salt Lake or
+Fort Bridger, and we had Congressional authority to draw on the military
+posts for supplies. The Major and his colleague, Professor Thompson,
+went to Fort Bridger and to Salt Lake to secure what was necessary, and
+to make further arrangements for the supplies which were to be brought
+in to us at the three established points: the mouth of the Uinta, by way
+of the Uinta Indian Agency; the mouth of the Dirty Devil; and the place
+where Escalante had succeeded in crossing the Colorado in 1776, known as
+the Crossing of the Fathers, about on the line between Utah and Arizona.
+
+[Illustration: Red Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+Mrs. Thompson and Mrs. Powell, who had come out on the same train with
+us, had gone on to Salt Lake, where they were to wait for news from the
+expedition, when we should get in touch with the Uinta Agency at the
+mouth of the Uinta River, something over two hundred miles further down.
+At length all was provided for and the Major and Prof. returned to our
+camp from Salt Lake bringing a new member of the party, Jack Hillers, to
+take the place of Jack Sumner of the former party who was unable to get
+to us on account of the deep snows in the mountains which surrounded the
+retreat where he had spent the winter trapping. Prof. brought back also
+an American flag for each boat with the name of the boat embroidered in
+the field of blue on one side while the stars were on the other. We all
+admired these flags greatly, especially as they had been made by Mrs.
+Thompson's own hands.
+
+We had with us a diary which Jack Sumner had kept on the former voyage,
+and the casual way in which he repeatedly referred to running through a
+"hell of foam" gave us an inkling, if nothing more, of what was coming.
+Our careful preparations gave us a feeling of security against disaster,
+or, at least, induced us to expect some degree of liberality from
+Fortune. We had done our best to insure success and could go forward in
+some confidence. A delay was caused by the non-arrival of some extra
+heavy oars ordered from Chicago, but at length they came, and it was
+well we waited, for the lighter ones were quickly found to be too frail.
+Our preparations had taken three weeks. Considering that we were obliged
+to provide against every contingency that might occur in descending this
+torrent so completely locked in from assistance and supplies, the time
+was not too long. Below Green River City, Wyoming, where we were to
+start, there was not a single settler, nor a settlement of any kind, on
+or near the river for a distance of more than a thousand miles. From the
+river out, a hundred miles in an air line westward, across a practically
+trackless region, would be required to measure the distance to the
+nearest Mormon settlements on the Sevier, while eastward it was more
+than twice as far to the few pioneers who had crossed the Backbone of
+the Continent. The Uinta Indian Agency was the nearest establishment to
+Green River. It was forty miles west of the mouth of the Uinta. In
+southern Utah the newly formed Mormon settlement of Kanab offered the
+next haven, but no one understood exactly its relationship to the
+topography of the Colorado, except from the vicinity of the Crossing of
+the Fathers. Thus the country through which we were to pass was then a
+real wilderness, while the river itself was walled in for almost the
+entire way by more or less unscalable cliffs of great height.
+
+Finally all of our preparations were completed to the last detail. The
+cabins of the boats were packed as one packs a trunk. A wooden arm-chair
+was obtained from Field and fastened to the middle deck of our boat by
+straps, as a seat for the Major, and to the left side of it--he had no
+right arm--his rubber life-preserver was attached. Each man had a
+similar life-preserver in a convenient place, and he was to keep this
+always ready to put on when we reached particularly dangerous rapids. On
+the evening of the 21st of May nothing more remained to be done. The
+Second Powell Expedition was ready to start.
+
+[Illustration: Before the Start at Green River City, Wyoming.
+
+The dark box open. _Cañonita_; Andy, Clem, Beaman. _Emma Dean_; Jones,
+Jack, the Major, Fred. _Nellie Powell_; Prof., Steward, Cap., Frank.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 1: Powell had received an appointment as Colonel before he
+left the Volunteer Service, but he was always called Major.]
+
+[Footnote 2: For the history of the Colorado River the reader is
+referred to _The Romance of the Colorado River_, by F. S. Dellenbaugh.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+     Into the Wilderness--The Order of Sailing--Tobacco for the
+     Indians Comes Handy--A Lone Fisherman and Some Trappers--Jack
+     Catches Strange Fish--The Snow-clad Uintas in View--A Larder
+     Full of Venison--Entrance into Flaming Gorge.
+
+
+The 22d of May, 1871, gave us a brilliant sun and a sky of sapphire with
+a sparkling atmosphere characteristic of the Rocky Mountain Region. The
+great buttes near the station, which Moran has since made famous, shone
+with a splendour that was inspiring. To enable us to pick up the last
+ends more easily and to make our departure in general more convenient,
+we had breakfast that morning at Field's outfitting place, and an
+excellent breakfast it was. It was further distinguished by being the
+last meal that we should eat at a table for many a month. We were
+followed to the cove, where our loaded boats were moored, by a number of
+people; about the whole population in fact, and that did not make a
+crowd. None of the Chinamen came down, and there were no Indians in town
+that day. The only unpleasant circumstance was the persistent repetition
+by a deaf-mute of a pantomimic representation of the disaster that he
+believed was to overwhelm us. "Dummy," as we called him, showed us that
+we would be upset, and, unable to scale the cliffs, would surely all be
+drowned. This picture, as vividly presented as possible, seemed to give
+him and his brother great satisfaction. We laughed at his prophecy, but
+his efforts to talk were distressing. It may be said in excuse for him,
+that in some paddling up the river from that point, he had arrived at
+perhaps an honest conviction of what would happen to any one going
+below; and also, that other wise men of the town predicted that we would
+never see "Brown's Hole," at the end of Red Canyon.
+
+At ten o'clock we pushed out into the current. There were "Good-bye and
+God-speed" from the shore with a cheer, and we responded with three and
+then we passed out of sight. The settlement, the railway, the people,
+were gone; the magnificent wilderness was ours. We swept down with a
+four-mile current between rather low banks, using the oars mainly for
+guidance, and meeting no difficulty worse than a shoal, on which the
+boats all grounded for a few moments, and the breaking of his oar by
+Jones who steered our boat. About noon having run three miles, a landing
+was made on a broad gravelly island, to enable Andy to concoct a dinner.
+A heavy gale was tearing fiercely across the bleak spot. The sand flew
+in stinging clouds, but we got a fire started and then it burned like a
+furnace. Andy made another sample of his biscuits, this time liberally
+incorporated with sand, and he fried some bacon. The sand mainly settled
+to the bottom of the frying pan, for this bacon was no fancy breakfast
+table variety but was clear fat three or four inches thick. But how good
+it was! And the grease poured on bread! And yet while at the railway I
+had scorned it; in fact I had even declared that I would never touch it,
+whereat the others only smiled a grim and confident smile. And now, at
+the first noon camp, I was ready to pronounce it one of the greatest
+delicacies I had ever tasted! They jeered at me, but their jeers were
+kind, friendly jeers, and I recall them with pleasure. In warm-hearted
+companionship no set of men that I have ever since been associated with
+has been superior to these fellow voyageurs, and the Major's big way of
+treating things has been a lesson all my life. We had all become fast
+true friends at once. With the exception of the Major, whom I had first
+met about two months before, and Frank whom I had known for a year or
+two, I had been acquainted with them only since we had met on the train
+on the way out.
+
+In the scant shelter of some greasewood bushes we devoured the repast
+which the morning's exercise and the crisp air had made so welcome, and
+each drank several cups of tea dipped from the camp-kettle wherein Andy
+had boiled it. We had no formal table. When all was ready, the magic
+words, "Well go fur it, boys," which Andy uttered stepping back from the
+fire were ceremony enough. Each man took a tin plate and a cup and
+served himself. Clem and Frank were sent back overland to the town for a
+box of thermometers forgotten and for an extra steering oar left behind,
+and the _Cañonita_ waited for their return.
+
+During the afternoon, as we glided on, the hills began to close in upon
+us, and occasionally the river would cut into one making a high
+precipitous wall, a forerunner of the character of the river banks
+below. The order of going was, our boat, the _Emma Dean_, first, with
+Major Powell on the deck of the middle cabin, or compartment, sitting in
+his arm-chair, which was securely fastened there, but was easily
+removable. S. V. Jones was at the steering oar, Jack Hillers pulled his
+pair of oars in the after standing-room, while I was at the bow oars.
+The second in line was the _Nellie Powell_, Professor A. H. Thompson
+steering, J. F. Steward rowing aft, Captain F. M. Bishop forward, and
+Frank Richardson sitting rather uncomfortably on the middle deck. The
+third and last boat was the _Cañonita_, which E. O. Beaman, the
+photographer steered, while Andrew Hattan, rowed aft, and Clement
+Powell, assistant photographer, forward. This order was preserved, with
+a few exceptions, throughout the first season's work. It was the duty of
+Prof. and Jones to make a traverse (or meander) of the river as we
+descended. They were to sight ahead at each bend with prismatic
+compasses and make estimates of the length of each sight, height of
+walls, width of stream, etc., and Cap was to put the results on paper.
+The Major on his first boat, kept a general lookout and gave commands
+according to circumstances. He remembered the general character of the
+river from his former descent, but he had to be on the _qui-vive_ as to
+details. Besides every stage of water makes a change in the nature of
+the river at every point. In addition to this outlook, the Major kept an
+eye on the geology, as he was chief geologist; and Steward, being
+assistant geologist did the same. Richardson was assistant to Steward.
+Jack was general assistant and afterwards photographer. I was artist,
+and later, assistant topographer also. It was my duty to make any sketch
+that the geologists might want, and of course, as in the case of
+everybody, to help in the navigation or anything else that came along.
+Each man had a rifle and some had also revolvers. Most of the rifles
+were Winchesters.[3] We had plenty of ammunition, and the rifles were
+generally kept where we could get at them quickly.
+
+In this order, and with these duties, we ran on down the Green, and so
+far at least as I was concerned, feeling as if we had suddenly stepped
+off into another world. Late in the afternoon we were astonished to
+discover a solitary old man sitting on the right bank fishing. Who he
+was we did not know but we gave him a cheer as we dashed by and were
+carried beyond his surprised vision. As the sun began to reach the
+horizon a lookout was kept for a good place for camp. I, for one, was
+deeply interested, as I had never yet slept in the open. At length we
+reached a spot where the hills were some distance back on the right
+leaving quite a bottom where there were a number of cottonwood trees. A
+deserted log cabin silently invited us to land and, as this was cordial
+for the wilderness, we responded in the affirmative. The sky had a look
+of storm about it and I was glad of even this excuse for a roof, though
+the cabin was too small to shelter our whole party, except standing up,
+and the beds were all put down on the ground outside. The night was very
+cold and the fire which we made for Andy's operations was most
+comforting. We had for supper another instalment of bacon,
+saleratus-bread, and tea, which tasted just as good as had that prepared
+at noon. Sitting on rocks and stumps we ate this meal, and presently the
+raw air reminded some of the smokers that, while they had thrown their
+tobacco away there was, in the boats, the quite large supply designed
+for our Red friends, should we meet any. Of course we had more than was
+absolutely necessary for them, and in a few minutes the pipes which had
+been cast away at Green River appeared well filled and burning. Perhaps
+we had pipes for the Indians too! I had not thrown my pipe away for it
+was a beautifully carved meerschaum--a present. I knew just where it was
+and lighted it up, though I was not a great smoker. The Indians did not
+get as much of that tobacco as they might have wished.
+
+To make our blankets go farther we bunked together two and two, and
+Jones and I were bed-fellows. It was some time before I could go to
+sleep. I kept studying the sky; watching the stars through the ragged
+breaks in the flying clouds. The night was silent after the gale. The
+river flowed on with little noise. The fire flickered and flickered, and
+the cottonwoods appeared dark and strange as I finally went to sleep. I
+had not been long in that happy state before I saw some men trying to
+steal our boats on which our lives depended and I immediately attacked
+them, pinning one to the ground. It was only Jones I was holding down,
+and his shouts and struggles to reach his pistol woke me, and startled
+the camp. He believed a real enemy was on him. There was a laugh at my
+expense, and then sleep ruled again till about daylight when I was
+roused by rain falling on my face. All were soon up. The rain changed to
+snow which fell so heavily that we were driven to the cabin where a
+glorious fire was made on the hearth, and by it Andy got the bread and
+bacon and coffee ready for breakfast, and also for dinner, for the snow
+was so thick we could not venture on the river till it stopped, and that
+was not till afternoon.
+
+The country through which we now passed was more broken. Cliffs, buttes,
+mesas, were everywhere. Sometimes we were between high rocky banks, then
+we saw a valley several miles wide, always without a sign of occupation
+by white men, even though as yet we were not far from the railway in a
+direct course. Very late in the afternoon we saw something moving in the
+distance on the right. Our glasses made it out to be two or three men
+on horseback. A signal was made which they saw, and consequently stopped
+to await developments, and a bag of fossils, the Major had collected,
+was sent out to them with a request to take it to Green River Station,
+in which direction they were headed. They proved to be a party of
+prospectors who agreed to deliver the fossils, and we went on our way.
+
+The mornings and evenings were very cold and frosty, but during the day
+the temperature was perfectly comfortable, and this was gratifying, for
+the river in places spread into several channels, so that no one of them
+was everywhere deep enough for the boats which drew, so heavily laden,
+sixteen or eighteen inches. The keels grated frequently on the bottom
+and we had to jump overboard to lighten the boats and pull them off into
+deep water. We found as we went on that we must be ready every moment,
+in all kinds of water, to get over into the river, and it was necessary
+to do so with our clothes on, including our shoes, for the reason that
+the rocky bottom would bruise and cut our feet without the shoes, rocks
+would do the same to our legs, and for the further reason that there was
+no time to remove garments. In the rapids further on we always shipped
+water and consequently we were wet from this cause most of the time
+anyhow. We had two suits of clothes, one for wear on the river in the
+day time, and the other for evening in camp, the latter being kept in a
+rubber bag, so that we always managed to be dry and warm at night. On
+making camp the day suit was spread out on rocks or on a branch of a
+tree if one were near, or on a bush to dry, and it was generally, though
+not always, comfortably so, in the morning when it was again put on for
+the river work. Sometimes, being still damp, the sensation for a few
+moments was not agreeable.
+
+We snapped several of the lighter oars in the cross currents, as the
+boats were heavy and did not mind quickly, and to backwater suddenly on
+one of the slender oars broke it like a reed. Some of the longer,
+heavier oars were then cut down to eight feet and were found to be
+entirely serviceable. The steering oars were cut down from eighteen to
+sixteen feet. Extra oars were carried slung on each side of the boats
+just under the gunwales, for the Major on the former journey had been
+much hampered by being obliged to halt to search for timber suitable for
+oars and then to make them. There was one thing about the boats which we
+soon discovered was a mistake. This was the lack of iron on the keels.
+The iron had been left off for the purpose of reducing the weight when
+it should be necessary to carry the boats around bad places, but the
+rocks and gravel cut the keels down alarmingly, till there was danger of
+wearing out the bottoms in the long voyage to come.[4]
+
+Jack was a great fisherman, and it was not long before he tried his luck
+in the waters of the Green. No one knew what kind of fish might be
+taken--at least no one in our party--and he began his fishing with some
+curiosity. It was rewarded by a species of fish none of us had ever
+before seen, a fish about ten to sixteen inches long, slim, with fine
+scales and large fins. Their heads came down with a sudden curve to the
+mouth, and their bodies tapered off to a very small circumference just
+before the tail spread out. They were good to eat, and formed a welcome
+addition to our larder. We were all eager for something fresh, and when
+we saw a couple of deer run across the bluffs just before we reached our
+fourth camp, our hopes of venison were roused to a high degree. Camp
+number four was opposite the mouth of Black's Fork at an altitude above
+sea level of 5940 feet, a descent of 135 feet from the railway bridge.
+After this the channel was steadier and the water deeper, Black's Fork
+being one of the largest tributaries of the upper river. We now came in
+view of the snowy line of the Uinta Range stretching east and west
+across our route and adding a beautiful alpine note to the wide barren
+array of cliffs and buttes. It was twenty or thirty miles off, but so
+clear was the air that we seemed to be almost upon it.
+
+As we were drifting along with a swift current in the afternoon, the day
+after passing Black's Fork, one of the party saw a deer on an island. A
+rifle shot from our boat missed, and the animal dashing into the river
+swam across and disappeared in the wide valley. But another was seen. A
+landing was made immediately, and while some of the men held the boats
+ready to pick up a prize, the others beat the island. I was assigned to
+man our boat, and as we waited up against the bank under the bushes, we
+could hear the rifles crack. Then all was still. Suddenly I heard a
+crashing of bushes and a hundred yards above us a superb black-tail
+sprang into the water and swam for the east bank. My sensation was
+divided between a desire to see the deer escape, and a desire to
+supplant the bacon with venison for a time. My cartridges were under the
+hatches as it chanced, so I was unable to take action myself. With deep
+interest I watched the animal swim and with regret that our fresh meat
+was so fortunate, for it was two-thirds of the way across, before a
+rifle cracked. The deer's efforts ceased instantly and she began to
+drift down with the current. We ran our boat out and hauled the carcass
+on board. At the same time as we were being carried down by the swift
+current we got a view of the other side of the island where Cap. up to
+his arms in the stream was trying to pull another deer ashore by the
+horns. It looked as if both deer and Cap. would sail away and forever,
+till another boat went to his rescue. Presently the third boat came down
+bearing still another deer. The successful shots were from Prof., Andy,
+and Steward. Our prospects for a feast were bright, and we had it. The
+deer were speedily dressed, Frank displaying exceptional skill in this
+line. Had we been able to stay in this region we would never have been
+in want of fresh meat, but when we entered the canyons the conditions
+were so different and the task of pursuing game so baffling and
+exhausting that we never had such success again. The whole of the next
+day we remained in a favourable spot at the foot of a strangely tilted
+ledge, where we jerked the venison by the aid of sun and fire to
+preserve it. Near this point as observations showed later we passed from
+Wyoming into Utah.
+
+About dusk we were surprised to discover a small craft with a single
+individual aboard coming down the river. Then we saw it was a raft. We
+watched its approach with deep interest wondering who the stranger could
+be, but he turned out to be Steward who had gone geologising and had
+taken this easier means of coming back. He tried it again farther down
+and met with an experience which taught him to trust to the land
+thereafter.
+
+[Illustration: Flaming Gorge.
+
+The Beginning of the Colorado River Canyons, N. E. Utah.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+The next day our boat was held back for some special work while the
+others proceeded toward a high spur of the Uintas, directly in front of
+us. We followed with a fierce and blinding gale sweeping the river and
+filling our eyes with sharp sand. Nevertheless we could see high up
+before us some bright red rocks marking the first canyon of the
+wonderful series that separates this river from the common world. From
+these bright rocks glowing in the sunlight like a flame above the
+grey-green of the ridge, the Major had bestowed on this place the name
+of Flaming Gorge. As we passed down towards the mountain it seemed that
+the river surely must end there, but suddenly just below the mouth of
+Henry's Fork it doubled to the left and we found ourselves between two
+low cliffs, then in a moment we dashed to the right into the beautiful
+canyon, with the cliffs whose summit we had seen, rising about 1300 feet
+on the right, and a steep slope on the left at the base of which was a
+small bottom covered with tall cottonwood trees, whose green shone
+resplendent against the red rocks. The other boats were swinging at
+their lines and the smoke of Andy's fire whirling on the wind was a
+cheerful sight to the ever-hungry inner-man. Constant exercise in the
+open air produces a constant appetite. As long as we could protect our
+cargoes, and make our connections with our supplies as planned, we would
+surely not have to go hungry, but we had to consider that there was room
+for some variation or degree of success. There was at least one
+comforting feature about the river work and that was we never suffered
+for drinking water. It was only on side trips, away from the river that
+we met this difficulty, so common in the Rocky Mountain Region and all
+the South-west.
+
+When the barometrical observations were worked out we found we had now
+descended 262 feet from our starting-point. That was four and a quarter
+feet for each mile of the sixty-two we had put behind. We always
+counted the miles put behind, for we knew they could not be retraced,
+but it was ever the miles and the rapids ahead that we kept most in our
+minds. We were now at the beginning of the real battle with the "Sunken
+River." Henceforth, high and forbidding cliffs with few breaks, would
+imprison the stream on both sides.
+
+A loss of our provisions would mean a journey on foot, after climbing
+out of the canyon, to Green River (Wyoming) to Salt Lake City or to the
+Uinta Indian Agency. There was a trail from Brown's Hole (now Brown's
+Park) back to the railway, but the difficulty would be to reach it if we
+should be wrecked in Red Canyon. We did not give these matters great
+concern at the time, but I emphasise them now to indicate some of the
+difficulties of the situation and the importance of preventing the wreck
+of even one boat.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 3: Two were of the original Henry pattern.]
+
+[Footnote 4: For further description of these boats the reader is
+referred to _The Romance of the Colorado River_, page 236, by F. S.
+Dellenbaugh.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+     The First Rapid--Horseshoe and Kingfisher Canyons--A Rough
+     Entrance into Red Canyon--Capsize of the _Nell_--The Grave of
+     a Bold Navigator--Discovery of a White Man's Camp--Good-bye to
+     Frank--At the Gate of Lodore.
+
+
+Prof. now took observations for time and latitude in order to fix with
+accuracy the geographical location of the camp in Flaming Gorge, and to
+check the estimates of the topographers as they sighted the various
+stretches of the river. It has been found that estimates of this kind
+are quite accurate and that the variation from exactness is generally
+the same in[5] the same individual. Hence one man may underestimate and
+another may overestimate, but each will always make the same error, and
+this error can be readily corrected by frequent observations to
+determine latitude and longitude. A series of barometrical observations
+was kept going whether we were on the move or not. That is, a mercurial
+barometer was read three times a day, regularly, at seven, at one, and
+at nine. We had aneroid barometers for work away from the river and
+these were constantly compared with and adjusted to the mercurials. The
+tubes of mercury sometimes got broken, and then a new one had to be
+boiled to replace it. I believe the boiling of tubes has since that time
+been abandoned, as there is not enough air in the tube to interfere with
+the action of the mercury, but at that time it was deemed necessary for
+accuracy, and it gave Prof. endless trouble. The wind was always
+blowing, and no tent we could contrive from blankets, and waggon sheets
+(we had no regular tents), sufficed to keep the flame of the alcohol
+lamp from flickering. Nevertheless, Prof. whose patience and dexterity
+were unlimited, always succeeded. The mercurial barometers were of the
+kind with a buckskin pocket at the bottom of the cistern with a screw
+for adjusting the column of mercury to a fixed point.
+
+Most of the men climbed out in various directions and for various
+objects. Prof. reached a high altitude whence he obtained a broad view
+of the country, a grand sight with the quiet river below and snow-capped
+mountains around, with rolling smoke and leaping flame, for there were
+great mountain fires not far off. The Major and Steward went
+geologising. Steward was rewarded by discovering a number of fossils,
+among them the bones of an immense animal of the world's early day, with
+a femur ten inches in diameter, and ribs two inches thick and six inches
+wide. These bones were much exposed and could have been dug out, but we
+had no means of transporting them.
+
+Flaming Gorge is an easy place to get in and out of, even with a horse,
+and doubtless in the old beaver-hunting days it was a favourite resort
+of trappers. I am inclined to think that the double turn of the swirling
+river where it enters Flaming Gorge is the place known at that time as
+the Green River Suck. Our camp under the cottonwoods was delightful. We
+took advantage of the halt to write up notes, clean guns, mend clothes,
+do our washing, and all the other little things incident to a breathing
+spell on a voyage of this kind. It was Sunday too, and when possible we
+stopped on that account, though, of course, progress could not be
+deferred for that reason alone.
+
+Monday morning we left the pleasant camp in the grove and went on with
+the tide. The river was rough from a heavy gale, but otherwise offered
+no obstacle. At a sudden bend we cut to the left deeper into the
+mountain till on both sides we were enclosed by almost perpendicular
+precipices of carboniferous formation, limestone, about 1600 feet high.
+The canyon was surprisingly beautiful and romantic. The river seemed to
+change its mood here, and began to flow with an impetus it had exhibited
+nowhere above. It swept on with a directness and a concentration of
+purpose that had about it something ominous. And just here, at the foot
+of the right hand wall which was perpendicular for 800 feet, with the
+left more sloping, and clothed with cedar shrubs, we beheld our first
+real rapid, gleaming like a jewel from its setting in the sunlight which
+fell into the gorge, and it had as majestic a setting as could be
+desired. For myself I can say that the place appeared the acme of the
+romantic and picturesque. The rapid was small and swift, a mere chute,
+and perhaps hardly worthy of mention had it not been the point where the
+character of the river current changes making it distinguished because
+of being the first of hundreds to come below. The river above had held a
+continual descent accelerating here and retarding there with an average
+current of two and a half miles an hour, but here began the quick drops
+for which the canyons are now famous. There was one place where Prof.
+noted a small rapid but it was not like this one, and I did not count it
+at all.
+
+[Illustration: Horseshoe Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+The gorge we ran into so suddenly was short and by dinner-time we had
+emerged into a wider, more broken place, though we were still bound in
+by tremendous heights. We saw that we had described a complete horseshoe
+and this fact determined the canyon's name--number two of the series.
+When we landed for dinner, an examination was made of the locality from
+that base before we dropped down a little distance to the mouth of a
+fine clear creek coming in from the right. This was a fascinating place.
+The great slopes were clothed with verdure and trees, and the creek ran
+through luxuriant vegetation. A halt of a day was made for observation
+purposes. The air was full of kingfishers darting about and we
+immediately called the creek by their name.
+
+I was sent with Steward on a geological expedition out over the right or
+western cliffs. We consumed two hours in getting out, having to climb up
+about 1000 feet over a difficult way. After a good deal of going up and
+down across rough ridges, we finally worked our way around to the head
+of Flaming Gorge. Here we reckoned up and found that eight steep ridges
+intervened between us and camp by the way we had come, and we concluded
+that we could get back easier through Flaming Gorge and thence by
+climbing over the tongue or base of the horseshoe which was lower than
+the end. Steward grew decidedly weary and I felt my legs getting heavy
+too. Rain had fallen at intervals all day and we were wet as well as
+tired and famished. We struck an old trail and followed it as long as it
+went our way. Then it became too dark to see which way it went and we
+climbed on as best we could. It was about half-past eight when we
+reached our camp to find a splendid fire burning and a good supper
+waiting for us.
+
+The new canyon which closed in the next day had walls about 1500 feet in
+height, that being the general height of the spur of the Uintas through
+which we were travelling. The changes from one canyon to another were
+only changes in the character of the bounding mountain walls, for there
+was no break into open country. The name of Kingfisher we gave to the
+new gorge for the same reason we had called the creek at our camp by
+that name, and so numerous were these birds at one rounded promontory
+that there was no escape from calling it Beehive Point, the resemblance
+to a gigantic hive being perfect. Kingfisher Canyon like its two
+predecessors was short, all three making a distance by the river of only
+about ten miles. Flaming Gorge is the gateway, Horseshoe the vestibule,
+and Kingfisher the ante-chamber to the whole grand series. At the foot
+of Kingfisher the rocks fell back a little and steep slopes took their
+place. Where the rocks closed in again, we halted on the threshold of
+the next gorge, in a fine grove of cottonwoods. A significant roar came
+to us out of the gate to Red Canyon, rolling up on the air with a
+steady, unvarying monotony that had a sinister meaning. It was plain
+that we were nearing something that was no paltry gem like the rapid we
+had so much admired in Horseshoe Canyon.
+
+The remainder of that day and all the next, which was June 1st, we
+stayed at this camp completing records, investigating the surroundings,
+and preparing for rough work ahead. On Friday morning the cabins were
+packed carefully, the life preservers were inflated, and we pulled out
+into the current. The cliffs shot up around us and rough water began at
+once. The descent was almost continuous for a considerable distance, but
+we divided it into three rapids in our notes, before we reached a sharp
+turn to the right, and then one just as sharp to the left, with vertical
+walls on both sides and a roaring torrent, broken by rocks, whirling
+between. Our boat shot down with fierce rapidity and would have gone
+through without a mishap had not the current dashed us so close to the
+right-hand wall that Jack's starboard row-lock was ripped off by a
+projection of the cliff as we were hurled along its rugged base. At the
+same moment we saw the _Nell_ upsetting against some rocks on the left.
+Then we swept out of view and I was obliged to pull with all my
+strength, Jack's one oar being useless. We succeeded in gaining a little
+cove on the left, and jumped out as soon as shallow enough, the Major
+immediately climbing the cliffs to a high point where he could look down
+on the unfortunate second boat. Prof., it seems, had misunderstood the
+Major's signal and had done just what he did not think he ought to do.
+He thought it meant to land on the left and he had tried to reach a
+small strip of beach, but finding this was not possible he turned the
+boat again into the current to retrieve his former position, but this
+was not successful and the _Nell_ was thrown on some rocks projecting
+from the left wall, in the midst of wild waters, striking hard enough to
+crush some upper planks of the port side. She immediately rolled over,
+and Frank slid under. Prof. clutched him and pulled him back while the
+men all sprang for the rocks and saved themselves and the boat from
+being washed away in this demoralised condition. With marvellous
+celerity Cap. took a turn with a rope around a small tree which he
+managed to reach, while Steward jumped to a position where he could
+prevent the boat from pounding. In a minute she was righted and they got
+her to the little beach where they had tried to land. Here they pulled
+her out and, partially unloading, repaired her temporarily as well as
+they could. This done they towed up to a point of vantage and made a
+fresh start and cleared the rapid with no further incident. Meanwhile
+the _Cañonita_ had come in to where we were lying, and both boats were
+held ready to rescue the men of the other. After about three-quarters of
+an hour the unfortunate came down, her crew being rather elated over the
+experience and the distinction of having the first capsize.
+
+Setting out on the current again we passed two beautiful creeks entering
+from the right, and they were immediately named respectively, Compass
+and Kettle creeks, to commemorate the loss of these articles in the
+capsize. At the mouth of Kettle Creek, about a mile and a half below the
+capsize rapid, we stopped for dinner. Then running several small drops,
+we arrived at a long descent that compelled careful action. We always
+landed, where possible, to make an examination and learn the trend of
+the main current. Our not being able to do this above was the cause of
+the _Nell's_ trouble. We now saw that we had here landed on the wrong
+side and would have to make a somewhat hazardous crossing to the
+opposite, or right bank. Our boat tried it first. In spite of vigorous
+pulling we were carried faster down towards the rapid than to the
+objective landing. When we reached water about waist deep we all sprang
+overboard, and I got to shore with the line as quickly as I could. We
+were able to turn and catch the _Nell_ as she came in, but the
+_Cañonita_ following ran too far down. We all dashed into the stream
+almost at the head of the rapid, and there caught her in time. The load
+was taken out of our boat and she was let down by lines over the worst
+part. Loading again we lowered to another bad place where we went into
+camp on the same spot where the Major had camped two years before. We
+unloaded the other boats and got them down before dark, but we ate
+supper by firelight. The river averaged about 250 feet wide, with a
+current of not less than six miles an hour and waves in the rapids over
+five feet in vertical height. These waves broke up stream as waves do in
+a swift current, and as the boats cut into them at a high velocity we
+shipped quantities of water and were constantly drenched, especially the
+bow-oarsmen. The cliffs on each side, wonderfully picturesque, soon ran
+up to 1200 or 1500 feet, and steadily increased their altitude. Owing to
+the dip of the strata across the east and west trend of the canyon the
+walls on the north were steeper than those on the south, but they seldom
+rose vertically from the river. Masses of talus, and often alluvial
+stretches with rocks and trees, were strung along their base, usually
+offering numerous excellent landings and camping places. We were able to
+stop about as we wished and had no trouble as to camps, though they were
+frequently not just what we would have preferred. There was always
+smooth sand to sleep on, and often plenty of willows to cut and lay in
+rows for a mattress. It must not be imagined that these great canyons
+are dark and gloomy in the daytime. They are no more so than an ordinary
+city street flanked with very high buildings. Some lateral canyons are
+narrow and so deep that the sun enters them but briefly, but even these
+are only shady, not dark.
+
+[Illustration: Red Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+We remained on the Major's old camp ground a day so that Jones and Cap.
+could climb to the top of the cliff to get the topography. The next
+morning though it was Sunday was not to be one of rest. We began by
+lowering the boats about forty rods farther and there pulled out into
+the stream and were dashed along by a fierce current with rapid
+following rapid closely. The descent was nearly continuous with greater
+declivities thrown in here and there. As usual we took in a good deal of
+water and were saturated. We were growing accustomed to this, and the
+boats being built to float even when the open parts were full, we did
+not mind sitting with our legs in cold water till opportunity came to
+bail out with the camp kettle left in each open space for the purpose.
+One rapid where Theodore Hook, of Cheyenne, was drowned in 1869, while
+attempting to follow the first party, gave us no trouble. We sailed
+through it easily. Hook had declared that if Powell could descend the
+river he could too, and he headed a party to follow.[6] The motive I
+believe was prospecting. I do not know how far they expected to go but
+this was as far as they got. Their abandoned boats, flat-bottomed and
+inadequate, still lay half buried in sand on the left-hand bank, and not
+far off on a sandy knoll was the grave of the unfortunate leader marked
+by a pine board set up, with his name painted on it. Old sacks, ropes,
+oars, etc., emphasised the completeness of the disaster.
+
+Not far below this we made what we called a "line portage," that is, the
+boats were worked along the edge of the rapid, one at a time, in and out
+among the boulders with three or four men clinging to them to fend them
+off the rocks and several more holding on to the hundred-foot hawser, so
+that there was no possibility of one getting loose and smashing up, or
+leaving us altogether. It was then noon and a camp was made for the
+remainder of the day on the left bank in a very comfortable spot. We had
+accomplished three and a half miles, with four distinct rapids run and
+one "let-down." I went up from the camp along a sandy stretch and was
+surprised to discover what I took to be the fresh print of the bare
+foot of a man. Mentioning this when I returned, my companions laughed
+and warned me to be cautious and give this strange man a wide berth
+unless I had my rifle and plenty of ammunition. It was the track of a
+grizzly bear. I saw many tracks on this expedition and on others
+afterwards but I have never seen a bear yet, except in captivity. The
+grizzly seemed to shun me; but I believe they will not often attack a
+man unprovoked, and will lie perfectly still while one may pass within a
+few feet of their hiding-place.
+
+Three or four deer were seen but with no opportunity to get a shot. All
+through these upper canyons there was then a great abundance of game of
+every description, and had our object been to kill for sport, we
+undoubtedly could have made a pile of carcasses. One or two deer would
+have been welcome but we had no time to pursue them. Steward came in
+towards night from his geologising with a splendid bouquet of wild
+flowers which was greatly admired. Prof. and the Major climbed west of
+camp to a height of 1200 feet where they obtained a wide outlook and
+secured valuable notes on the topography. The view was superb as it is
+anywhere from a high point in this region. When they came back, the
+Major entertained us by reading aloud _The Lay of the Last Minstrel_,
+thus delightfully closing a beautiful Sunday which every man had
+enjoyed.
+
+In the morning soon after leaving this camp a dull roar ahead told of
+our approach to Ashley Falls, for which we were on the lookout. The left
+bank was immediately hugged as closely as possible and we dropped
+cautiously down to the head of the descent. An immense rock stuck up in
+the middle of the river and the water divided on this and shot down on
+each side in a sharp fall of about eight feet. Each was a clear chute
+and not dangerous to look at, but the effect of so sudden a plunge on
+one of our loaded boats was too much of a problem for trial. A portage
+was decided on. The left bank where we were was a mass of enormous
+broken rocks where it seemed next to impossible to haul a boat. A foot
+trail was first built which led up some fifty feet above the river, and
+over, under and around huge boulders to a place down below where it was
+proposed to carry the boats on skids. The cargoes were first taken over
+on our backs and when this was done we were about tired out. Our united
+strength was required to work the _Dean_ down to the selected haven
+without injury. This was such extremely hard work that the Major and
+Prof. concluded to shoot the _Cañonita_ through, light, with no men in
+her, but controlled by one of our hundred-foot hawsers attached to each
+end. She was started down and went through well enough, but filling with
+water and knocking on hidden rocks. Prudence condemned this method and
+we resorted to sliding and carrying the _Nell_ over the rocks as we had
+done with the _Dean_, certain that sleep and food would wipe out our
+weariness, but not injury to the boats which must be avoided by all
+means in our power. By the time we had placed the _Nell_ beside the
+other boats at the bottom it was sunset and too late to do anything but
+make a camp. Just above the head of the fall was a rather level place in
+a clump of pines at the very edge of the river forming as picturesque a
+camp-ground as I have ever seen. A brilliant moon hung over the canyon,
+lighting up the foam of the water in strong contrast to the red fire
+crackling its accompaniment to the roar of the rapid. A lunar rainbow
+danced fairy-like in the mists rising from the turmoil of the river. The
+night air was calm and mild. Prof. read aloud from _Hiawatha_ and it
+seemed to fit the time and place admirably. We had few books with us;
+poems of Longfellow, Whittier, Emerson, and Scott, are all I remember,
+except a Bible my mother had given me. I suppose Cap. had a Bible also,
+as he was very religious.
+
+The huge boulders which dammed the river had fallen from the cliffs on
+the left within a comparatively recent time, transforming an ordinary
+rapid into the fall; actually damming the water till it is smooth for
+half a mile above. The largest block of stone is the one in the middle.
+It is about twenty five feet square. The only white men on record to
+reach this place except the Major's other party, was General Ashley, the
+distinguished fur trader with a number of trappers. In his search for
+fresh beaver grounds he led his party in rude buffalo-skin boats through
+this canyon in 1825. They had a hard time and nearly starved to death as
+they depended for food on finding beaver and other game, in which they
+were disappointed. On one of my trips over the rocks with cargo I made a
+slight detour on the return to see the boulder where the Major had
+discovered Ashley's name with a date. The letters were in black, just
+under a slight projection and were surprisingly distinct considering the
+forty-six years of exposure. The "2" was illegible and looked like a
+"3." None of our party seemed to know that it could have been only a "2"
+for by the year 1835 Ashley had sold out and had given up the fur
+business in the mountains. Considering his ability, his prominence, his
+high character, and his identification with the early history of the
+West, there ought to be greater recognition of him than there has been.
+
+[Illustration: Red Canyon.
+
+Ashley Falls from Below.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+Below Ashley Falls the declivity of the river was very great with a
+correspondingly swift current, in one rapid reaching a velocity of at
+least fifteen miles an hour, and with waves that tossed our heavy boats
+like feathers. These were the most violent rapids we had yet met, not
+excepting the ones we had portaged. The cliffs, about 2500 feet high, of
+red sandstone, were often almost perpendicular on both sides, or at
+least they impressed us so at the time. There was much vegetation, pine,
+spruce, willow-leaved cottonwood, aspens, alder, etc., which added to
+the beauty and picturesqueness of the wild scenery. Beaman stopped each
+day where possible and desirable to take photographs, and at these times
+the others investigated the surroundings and climbed up side canyons
+when they existed. Late in the afternoon we came out suddenly into a
+small valley or park formerly called Little Brown's Hole, a noted
+rendezvous for trappers, and which we rechristened Red Canyon Park. This
+was a beautiful place bounded by round mountains, into which our great
+cliffs had temporarily resolved themselves, particularly on the right,
+the left side remaining pretty steep. Our camp was pitched under two
+large pine trees and every one was prepared, in the intervals of other
+duties, to take advantage of this respite to patch up clothing, shoes,
+etc., as well as to do what laundering was necessary. The river ran so
+quietly that we felt oppressed after the constant roaring since we had
+entered Red Canyon. I remember climbing up at evening with one of my
+companions, to a high altitude where the silence was deathlike and
+overpowering. Prof. and some of the others climbed to greater heights
+for topographical purposes, easily reaching an altitude of about 4000
+feet above the river in an air-line distance of about five miles. Here
+they obtained a magnificent panorama in all directions, limited on the
+west by the snowy chain of the Wasatch, and on the north by the Wind
+River Range like white clouds on the horizon 200 miles away, and they
+could trace the deep gorges of the river as they cleave the mountains
+from distance to distance.
+
+Here we saw signs of abundant game, elk, deer, bear, etc., but we had no
+time to go hunting as a business and the game refused to come to us.
+Each man had his work to accomplish so that we could get on. It was
+impracticable to go wandering over the mountains for game, much as we
+would have enjoyed a change from our bacon and beans. One day, only, was
+spent here for all purposes, geologising, topographic climbing, and
+working out the notes from up the river, making repairs and all the
+other needful things that crowded upon us. Here it was that I did my
+first tailoring and performed a feat of which I have ever since been
+proud; namely, transferring some coattails, from where they were of no
+use, to the knees and seat of my trousers where they were invaluable.
+
+On June 8th, we left this "Camp Number 13" regretfully and plunged in
+between the cliffs again for about eight miles, running five rapids,
+when we emerged into a large valley known as Brown's Hole, where our
+cliffs fell back for two or three miles on each side and became mountain
+ranges. Pulling along for a couple of miles on a quiet river we were
+surprised to discover on the left a white man's camp. Quickly landing we
+learned that it was some cattlemen's temporary headquarters (Harrell
+Brothers), and some of the men had been to Green River Station since our
+departure from that place, the distance by trail not being half that by
+river. They were expecting us and had brought some mail which was a glad
+sight for our eyes. These men had wintered about 2000 head of Texas
+cattle in this valley, noted for the salubrity of its winter climate
+since the days of the fur-hunters, and were on their way to the Pacific
+coast. We made a camp near by, with a cottonwood of a peculiar "Y"
+shape, more stump than tree, to give what shade-comfort it could, and
+enjoyed the relaxation which came with the feeling that we had put
+twenty-five miles of hard canyon behind, and were again in touch, though
+so briefly and at long range, with the outer world. As some of these men
+were to go out to the railway the following Sunday and offered to carry
+mail for us, we began to write letters to let our friends know how we
+were faring on our peculiar voyage. This "Brown's Hole" was the place
+selected by a man who pretended to have been with the former party, for
+the scene of that party's destruction which he reported to the
+newspapers. He thought as it was called a "hole" it must be one of the
+worst places on this raging river, not knowing that in the old trapper
+days when a man found a snug valley and dwelt there for a time it became
+known as his "hole" in the nomenclature of the mountains. The Major did
+not think this a satisfactory name and he changed it to "Brown's Park"
+which it now bears. I met an "old timer" on a western train several
+years afterward, who was greatly irritated because of this liberty which
+the Major took with the cherished designation of the early days. Fort
+Davy Crockett of the fur-trading period was located somewhere in this
+valley.
+
+[Illustration: In Red Canyon Park.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+The next morning after reaching Harrell's camp we were told that, as
+Frank did not seem able to stand the voyage he was to leave us here, to
+go over the mountains back to the railway, whence he would go home. We
+were all sorry to hear this and doubly sorry when on Sunday the 11th he
+mounted a mule and regretfully rode away with Mr. Harrell. The latter
+was to telegraph to Salt Lake to Mrs. Powell, to send our mail back to
+Green River Station so that it could be brought out to us on Mr.
+Harrell's return. Meanwhile we dropped down the river, now tranquil as a
+pond, with low banks covered with cottonwood groves. There were two
+small canyons the first of which we called "Little" about one-half mile
+long, and the second "Swallow," about two miles long. The cliffs were
+red sandstone about three hundred feet high, often vertical on both
+sides. Thousands of swallows swarmed there, and we did not resist giving
+it an obvious name. Below this the water spread out more and was full of
+islands. The current was sluggish, two miles an hour perhaps, and we
+indulged in the novelty of rowing the boats, though we did not try to
+make speed, for we had to wait for Mr. Harrell's return anyhow. The
+boats had been lightened by trading to Harrell some of our flour, of
+which we had an over abundance when it came to portages, for fresh beef,
+of which we were very much in need. At a convenient place we landed
+where there was a fine cottonwood grove and remained while Prof. made a
+climb and to jerk the beef. It was cut into thin strips and hung on a
+willow framework in the sun with a slow fire beneath. As the thermometer
+now stood at ninety-nine in the shade the beef was fairly well cured by
+the 13th and we went on, seeing one of the cattlemen and a Mexican boy
+on the left bank. In this neighbourhood we passed from Utah into
+Colorado. The river was six hundred feet broad and about six feet deep.
+We had no trouble from shoals, and finally lashed the three boats side
+by side and let them drift along in the slow current. The Major sitting
+in his arm-chair on the middle boat read aloud selections from _The Lady
+of the Lake_ which seemed to fit the scene well. Steward and Andy amused
+themselves by swimming along with the boats and occasionally diving
+under them.
+
+From our noon camp in a grove of cottonwoods opposite the mouth of
+Vermilion River, we could plainly see the great portal a mile or two
+away, the Gate of Lodore, where all this tranquillity would end, for the
+river cuts straight into the heart of the mountains forming one of the
+finest canyons of the series where the water comes down as Southey
+described it at Lodore, and the Major gave it that name. Before night we
+were at the very entrance and made our camp there in a grove of
+box-elders. Every man was looking forward to this canyon with some dread
+and before losing ourselves within its depths we expected to enjoy the
+letters from home which Mr. Harrell was to bring back from the railway
+for us. Myriads of mosquitoes gave us something else to think of, for
+they were exceedingly ferocious and persistent, driving us to a high
+bluff where a smudge was built to fight them off. We were nearly
+devoured. I fared best, a friend having given me a net for my head, and
+this, with buckskin gloves on my hands enabled me to exist with some
+comfort. The mountains rose abruptly just beyond our camp, and the river
+cleaved the solid mass at one stroke, forming the extraordinary and
+magnificent portal we named the "Gate of Lodore," one of the most
+striking entrances of a river into mountains to be found in all the
+world. It is visible for miles. Prof. climbed the left side of the Gate
+and also took observations for time.
+
+I was sent back to the valley to make some sketches and also to
+accompany Steward on a geological tramp. We had an uncomfortable
+experience because of the excessive heat and aridity. I learned several
+things about mountaineering that I never forgot, one of which was to
+always thoroughly note and mark a place where anything is left to be
+picked up on a return, for, leaving our haversack under a cedar it
+eluded all search till the next day, and meanwhile we were compelled to
+go to the river two or three miles away for water. We had a rubber
+poncho and a blanket. Using the rubber for a mattress and the blanket
+for a covering we passed the night, starting early for the mountains,
+where at last we found our food bag. After eating a biscuit we went back
+to the river and made tea and toasted some beef on the end of a ramrod,
+when we struck for the main camp, arriving at dinner-time.
+
+The Gate of Lodore seemed naturally the beginning of a new stage in our
+voyage to which we turned with some anxiety, for it was in the gorge now
+before us that on the first trip a boat had been irretrievably smashed.
+We were now 130 miles by river from the Union Pacific Railway crossing,
+and in this distance we had descended 700 feet in altitude, more than
+400 feet of it in Red Canyon. Lodore was said to have an even greater
+declivity.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 5: Three points on Green River below the Union Pacific
+crossing had been determined by previous explorers, the mouth of Henry's
+Fork, the mouth of the Uinta, and Gunnison Crossing.]
+
+[Footnote 6: I do not know the number of men composing this party.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+     Locked in the Chasm of Lodore--Rapids with Railway Speed--A
+     Treacherous Approach to Falls of Disaster--Numerous Loadings
+     and Unloadings--Over the Rocks with Cargoes--Library
+     Increased by _Putnam's Magazine_--Triplet Falls and Hell's
+     Half Mile--Fire in Camp--Exit from Turmoil to Peace.
+
+
+On Saturday the 17th of June, the member of the Harrell party who was to
+travel overland from Green River Station with mail for us from Salt Lake
+arrived with only two letters. The despatch had been too late to stop
+the packet which already had been started for the Uinta Indian Agency,
+whence it would reach us at the mouth of the Uinta River. It would be
+another month, at least, before we could receive those longed for words
+from home. There was nothing now to delay us further, and after dinner
+the boats were prepared for canyon work again. Through Brown's Park we
+had not been obliged to pay much attention to "ship-shape" arrangements,
+but now the story was to be different. The cabins were packed with
+unusual care, the life-preservers were inflated and put where they could
+be quickly seized on the approach to a bad descent, and at four o'clock
+we were afloat. The wide horizon vanished. The cliffs, red and majestic,
+rose at one bound to a height of about 2000 feet on each side, the most
+abrupt and magnificent gateway to a canyon imaginable. We entered
+slowly, for the current in the beginning is not swift, and we watched
+the mighty precipices while they appeared to fold themselves together
+behind and shut us more than ever away from the surrounding wilderness.
+For a short time the stream was quite tame. Then the murmur of distant
+troubled waters reached us and we prepared for work. The first rapid was
+not a bad one; we ran it without halting and ran three more in quick
+succession, one of which was rather ugly.
+
+[Illustration: The Head of the Canyon of Lodore.
+
+Just inside the Gate.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+This success caused some of us prematurely to conclude that perhaps "the
+way the water comes down at Lodore," was not so terrific as had been
+anticipated. The Major said nothing. He kept his eyes directed ahead.
+The river ran about 300 feet wide, with a current of 10 to 15 miles an
+hour in the rapids. At every bend new vistas of beauty were exhibited,
+and the cliffs impressed us more and more by their increasing height and
+sublimity. Landing places were numerous. Presently there came to our
+ears a roar with an undertone which spoke a language now familiar, and
+we kept as close to the right bank as possible, so that a stop could be
+instantly made at the proper moment. When this moment arrived a landing
+was effected for examination, and it revealed a furious descent, studded
+with large rocks, with a possibility of safely running through it if an
+exact course could be held, but the hour being now late a camp was made
+at the head and further investigation deferred till the next morning.
+
+This morning was Sunday, and the sun shone into the canyon with dazzling
+brilliancy, all being tranquil except the foaming rapid. The locality
+was so fascinating that we lingered to explore, finding especial
+interest in a delightful grotto carved out of the red sandstone by the
+waters of a small brook. The entrance was narrow, barely 20 feet, a mere
+cleft in the beginning, but as one proceeded up it between walls 1500
+feet high, the cleft widened, till at 15 rods it ended in an
+amphitheatre 100 feet in diameter, with a domed top. Clear, cold water
+trickled and dropped in thousands of diamond-like globules from
+everything. Mosses and ferns filled all the crevices adding a brilliant
+green to the picture, while far up overhead a little ribbon of blue sky
+could be seen; and, beyond the mouth, the yellow river. It was an
+exquisite scene. At the request of Steward, it's discoverer, it was
+named after his little daughter, "Winnie's Grotto." So charming was it
+here that we did not get off till ten o'clock, Beaman meanwhile taking
+several views.
+
+It was decided to run the rapid, for there was a comparatively straight
+channel about ten feet wide, and it was only a question of steering
+right. As our boat was to take it first the other crews came to a point
+where they could watch us to advantage and profit by our experience.
+Sticks, as usual, had been thrown in to determine the trend of the main
+current which must always be considered in dealing with any rapid. If it
+dashes against a cliff below, means must be found to cut across before
+reaching that point. On the other hand, if the main current has a
+comparatively clear chute, running through is not a difficult matter as
+in the present case. We pulled up-stream a short distance before putting
+out into the middle. Then we took the rapid as squarely as possible. We
+saw that we would have to go sharply to the left to avoid one line of
+rocks, and then to the right to clear another, both of which actions
+were successfully accomplished. Then we waited below for the others.
+They had no trouble either, and the three boats sped on and on into the
+greater depths beyond where wilder waters were foaming.
+
+All rapids have "tails" of waves tapering out below, that is the waves
+grow smaller as they increase the distance from the initial wave. These
+waves are the reverse of sea waves, the form remaining in practically
+one place while the water flies through. In many rapids there is an eddy
+on each side of this tail in which a current runs up-river with great
+force. If a boat is caught in this eddy it may be carried a second time
+through a part of the rapid. We soon arrived at another rapid in which
+this very thing happened to our boat. We were caught by the eddy and
+carried up-stream to be launched directly into the path of the _Nell_,
+which had started down. Prof. skilfully threw his boat to one side and
+succeeded in avoiding a collision. Nothing could be done with our boat
+but to let her go where she would for the moment. We then ran two other
+rapids, rough ones too, but there was no trouble in them for any of the
+boats. The velocity at this stage of water was astonishing, and the
+opportunities to land in quiet water between the rapids now were few.
+
+[Illustration: Canyon of Lodore.
+
+Low water.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1874.]
+
+About dinner-time as we emerged at high speed from one rapid we saw
+immediately below lying in ominous shadow, another. It had a forbidding
+look. In Red Canyon owing to the east-and-west trend the sun fell to the
+bottom for many more hours than in Lodore which has a north-and-south
+trend. Hence here even at high noon, one side or the other might be in
+deep shadow. In this particular case it was the left wall which came
+down very straight to the river, the outside of a bend. Opposite was a
+rocky, wooded point. Between these the rapid swept down. There was no
+slack water separating the end of the rapid we left from the beginning
+of this one so obscurely situated. Landing was no easy task at the speed
+with which we were flying, but it would not do to try to run the rapid
+without an examination. The only possible place to stop was on the right
+where there was a cove with a little strip of beach, and we headed for
+it instantly, pulling with every muscle. Yet we continued going on down
+at railway speed. When at last we arrived within a few feet of the bank
+the problem was how to stop. The water appeared shallow, though we could
+not see bottom on account of its murky character, and there was only one
+course, which was to jump out and make anchors of our legs. As we did so
+we sank to our waists and were pulled along for a moment but our feet,
+braced against the large rocks on the bottom, served the purpose and the
+momentum was overcome. Once the velocity was gone it was easy to get the
+boat to the beach, and she was tied there just in time to allow us to
+rush to the help of the _Nell_.[7] Scarcely had the _Nell_ been tied up
+than the _Cañonita_ came darting for the same spot like a locomotive.
+With the force on hand she was easily controlled, and the fact that she
+carried the cook outfit as well as the cook added to our joy at having
+her so speedily on the beach. Andy went to work immediately to build a
+fire and prepare dinner while the rest overhauled the boats, took
+observations, plotted notes, or did other necessary things, and the
+Major and Prof. went down to take a close look at the rapid which had
+caused us such sudden and violent exertion. They reported a clear
+channel in the middle, and when we continued after dinner, we went
+through easily and safely, as of course we could have done in the first
+place if the Major had been willing to take an unknown risk. But in the
+shadow the fall might have been almost anything and it would have been
+foolhardy to run it without examination, even though we found it so hard
+to stop. Below the rapid that had halted us so abruptly there was
+nothing for about a mile but easy running, when we stopped in a cove to
+examine another rapid. Prof. here started up eleven mountain sheep, but
+by the time he had come back to the boats for a gun they were beyond
+reach. Though this rapid could be easily run, there was just below it
+only a short distance the fall where the _No-Name_ was wrecked on the
+first trip, and we would have to be cautious, for the approach to that
+fall we knew was treacherous.
+
+The river comes at this point from the east, bends south, then west, and
+it is just at the western bend that the steep rush of the big fall
+begins and continues for three-quarters of a mile. On the right the
+waters beat fiercely against the foot of the perpendicular wall, while
+on the left they are confined by a rocky point, the end of which is
+composed of enormous blocks. The space for the stream between this point
+and the opposite cliff is narrow, while the river above it spreads
+rather wide with a deep bay on the left where there is quiet water. This
+bay is protected a quarter of a mile up by a jutting point, and is
+merely back water. Just off the point the whole river suddenly becomes
+saucer-like, and quite smooth, with all the currents drawing strongly in
+from every direction and pouring toward and over the falls. An object
+once within the grip of this "sag," as we called it, is obliged to pass
+over the falls. The situation is peculiar and it occurs nowhere else on
+the whole river. Not being understood on the first voyage one of the
+boats, the _No-Name_, was trapped, driven over the falls, and broken to
+fragments, though the men were rescued below. The disaster was the cause
+of some unpleasantness on that voyage, the men blaming the Major for not
+signalling properly and he blaming them for not landing quickly when he
+signalled.
+
+We were on the lookout for it and the Major having the wreck to
+emphasise the peculiarities of the "sag" desired to have every boat turn
+the point at the correct moment. Ours ran through the preliminary rapid
+easily and we dropped cautiously down upon our great enemy, hugging the
+left bank as closely as we could to reach the jutting point around which
+the boat must pass to arrive in the safe waters of the bay. We turned
+the point with no difficulty, and proceeded a distance across the bay
+where we landed on a beach to watch for the other boats, the steersmen
+having been informed as to the precariousness of the locality.
+Nevertheless it was so deceptive that when the _Nell_ came in sight she
+was not close enough to the left shore for safety. The Major signalled
+vigorously with his hat, and Prof. took the warning instantly and turned
+in, but when the _Cañonita_ appeared we saw at once that she was
+altogether too far out and for some seconds we stood almost petrified
+while the Major again signalled with all his might. It seemed an even
+chance; then she gained on the current and finally reached good water
+whence she came to our position. Beaman had been a pilot on the Great
+Lakes and was expert with a steering-oar, and probably for that reason
+he was somewhat careless. There was hardly an excuse in this instance
+for a boat not to take the proper course for the experience of the
+_No-Name_ told the whole story, yet the place is so peculiar and unusual
+that one even forewarned may fail. Across the bay pulling was safe and
+we ran to a beach very close to the head of the falls where we made our
+camp, the sun now being low and the huge cliffs casting a profound and
+sombre shadow into the bottom. It was a wild, a fierce, an impressive
+situation. The unending heavy roar of the tumbling river, the difficulty
+if not impossibility of turning back even if such a thing had been
+desired, the equal difficulty if not impossibility of scaling the walls
+that stood more than 2000 feet above us, and the general sublimity of
+the entire surroundings, rendered our position to my mind intensely
+dramatic. Two years before, on this identical spot the Major had camped
+with the loss of one of his boats bearing heavily on his mind, though
+his magnificent will, his cheerful self-reliance, and his unconquerable
+determination to dominate any situation gave him power and allied him to
+the river itself. The place practically chose its own name, Disaster
+Falls, and it was so recorded by the topographers.
+
+A hard portage was ahead of us and all turned in early to prepare by a
+good sleep for the long work of the next day. No tent as a rule was
+erected unless there was rain, and then a large canvas from each boat
+was put up on oars or other sticks, the ends being left open. In a
+driving storm a blanket would answer to fill in. As there was now no
+indication of a storm our beds were placed on the sand as usual with the
+sides of the canyon for chamber walls and the multitudinous stars for
+roof.
+
+A short distance below the great rapid near which we were camped was a
+second equally bad, the two together making up the three-quarter mile
+descent of Disaster Falls. Between them the river became level for a
+brief space and wider, and a deposit of boulders and gravel appeared
+there in the middle above the surface at the present stage of water. It
+was this island which had saved the occupants of the _No-Name_, and from
+which they were rescued.
+
+We were up very early in the morning, and began to carry the cargoes by
+a trail we made over and around the huge boulders to a place below the
+bad water of the first fall. The temperature was in the 90's and it was
+hot work climbing with a fifty-pound sack on one's back, but at last
+after many trips back and forth every article was below. Then the empty
+boats were taken one at a time, and by pulling, lifting, and sliding on
+skids of driftwood, and by floating wherever practicable in the quieter
+edges of the water, we got them successfully past the first fall. Here
+the loads were replaced, and with our good long and strong lines an inch
+thick, the boats were sent down several hundred yards in the rather
+level water referred to intervening between the foot of the upper fall
+and the head of the lower, to the beginning of the second descent. This
+all occupied much time, for nothing could be done rapidly, and noon
+came, in the midst of our work. Anticipating this event Andy had gone
+ahead with his cook outfit and had baked the dinner bread in his Dutch
+oven. With the usual fried bacon and coffee the inner man was speedily
+fortified for another wrestle with the difficult and laborious
+situation. The dinner bread was baked from flour taken out of a
+hundred-pound sack that was found lying on top of an immense boulder far
+above the river. This was flour that had been rescued by the former
+party from the wreckage of the _No-Name_, but as they could not add it
+to their remaining heavily laden boats, the Major had been compelled to
+leave it lying here. They needed it badly enough towards the end. It was
+still sweet and good, but we could not take it either. We were so much
+better provisioned than the former party that it was, besides, not
+necessary for us, and we also left it where it was. Our supplies were
+not likely to fail us at the mouth of the Uinta, and beyond that there
+was not yet need to worry. Although there were only two points below
+Gunnison Crossing in a distance of nearly 600 miles where it was known
+that the river could be reached, the Crossing of the Fathers and the
+mouth of the Paria not far below it, we felt sure that those who had
+been charged with the bringing of supplies to the mouth of the "Dirty
+Devil" would be able to get there, and as we were to stop for the season
+at the Paria, we would have time to plan for beyond. In any case our
+boats were carrying now all they could, and without a regret we turned
+our backs on the outcast flour. It was an ordinary sack of bolted wheat
+flour, first in a cotton bag then in a gunny bag and had been lying
+unbroken for two years. The outside for half an inch was hard, but
+inside of that the flour was in excellent condition. Two oars were also
+found. They were doubtless from the _No-Name_.
+
+[Illustration: F. S. Dellenbaugh
+
+The Heart of Lodore.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+After dinner we once more unloaded the boats and carried everything on
+our backs up and across a long rocky hill, or point, down to a spot,
+about a third of a mile altogether, where the goods were piled on a
+smooth little beach at the margin of a quiet bay. It took many trips,
+and it was exhausting work, but in addition to bringing the cargoes
+down, we also by half past five got one of the boats there, by working
+it over the rocks and along the edge. Here we camped and had supper as
+soon as Andy could get it ready. It may be asked by some not familiar
+with scientific work, how we always knew the time, but as we had the
+necessary instruments for taking time astronomically, there was nothing
+difficult about it. We also carried fine chronometers, and had a number
+of watches.
+
+In the sand near the camp, which place at highest water might have
+formed an eddy behind some huge rocks, a few old knives, forks, a rusty
+bake oven, and other articles were found, the wreckage from some party
+prior to that of the Major's first. He said they had not left anything
+of that sort, and he had noticed the same things on the former trip.
+
+The total fall of the river here is about fifty feet, and no boat could
+get through without smashing.
+
+The morning of June 20th found us early at work bringing down the two
+boats we had left, and as soon as this was accomplished the cargoes were
+put on once more, and we lowered the three one at a time, along the left
+bank by means of our hundred-foot hawsers, with everything in them,
+about a quarter of a mile to another bad place which we called Lower
+Disaster Falls. Here we unloaded and made a short portage while Andy was
+getting dinner. When we had disposed of this and reloaded, we pulled
+into the river, which averaged about 350 feet wide, with a current in
+places of 15 miles or more, and quickly arrived at three bad rapids in
+succession, all of which we ran triumphantly, though the former party
+made portages around them. In the third our boat took in so much water
+that we made a landing in order to bail out. Continuing immediately we
+reached another heavy rapid, but ran it without even stopping to
+reconnoitre, as the way seemed perfectly clear. We took the next rapid
+with equal success, though our boat got caught in an eddy and was turned
+completely round, while the others ran past us. They landed to wait, and
+there we all took a little breathing spell before attempting to run
+another rapid just below which we made camp in a grove of cedars, at the
+beginning of a descent that looked so ugly it was decided to make a
+"let-down" on the following day. Everybody was wet to the skin and glad
+to get on some dry clothes, as soon as we could pull out our bags. The
+cliffs had now reached an altitude of at least 2500 feet, and they
+appeared to be nearly perpendicular, but generally not from the water's
+edge where there was usually a bank of some kind or the foot of a steep
+talus. There were box-elder and cottonwood trees here and there, and
+cedars up the cliffs wherever they could find a footing. On the heights
+tall pine trees could be seen. The cliff just opposite camp was almost
+vertical from the rapid at its foot to the brink 2500 feet above, and
+flame red.
+
+After supper as we all sat in admiration and peering with some awe at
+the narrow belt of sky, narrower than we had before seen it, the stars
+slowly came out, and presently on the exact edge of the magnificent
+precipice, set there like a diadem, appeared the Constellation of the
+Harp. It was an impressive sight, and immediately the name was bestowed
+"The Cliff of the Harp."[8]
+
+Prof. read _Marmion_ aloud, and Jack gave us a song or two, before we
+went to sleep feeling well satisfied with our progress into the heart of
+Lodore.
+
+This portion of the river has a very great declivity, the greatest as we
+afterwards determined on the entire Green and Colorado with the
+exception of a section of Cataract and a part of the First Granite Gorge
+of the Grand Canyon, where the declivity is much the same, with Cataract
+Canyon in the lead. A quarter-mile above our camp a fine little stream,
+Cascade Creek, came in on the right. Beaman made some photographs in the
+morning, and we began to work the boats down along the edge of the rapid
+beside which we had camped. This took us till noon, and we had dinner
+before venturing on. When we set forth we had good luck, and soon put
+four rapids behind, running the first, letting down past two and running
+the fourth which was a pretty bad one. Three-quarters of a mile of
+smooth water then gave us a respite much appreciated, when we arrived at
+a wild descent about as bad as Disaster Falls, though more safely
+approached. This was called Triplet Falls by the first party. We went
+into camp at the head of it on the left bank. This day we found a number
+of fragments of the _No-Name_ here and there, besides an axe and a vise
+abandoned by the first party, and a welcome addition to our library in a
+copy of _Putnam's Magazine_. This was the first magazine ever to
+penetrate to these extreme wilds. The river was from 300 to 400 feet
+wide, and the walls ran along with little change, about 2500 feet high.
+Opposite camp was Dunn's Cliff, the end of the Sierra Escalante, about
+2800 feet high, named for one of the first party who was killed by the
+Indians down in Arizona. We remained a day here to let the topographers
+climb out if they could. They had little trouble in doing this, and
+after a pleasant climb reached the top through a gulch at an altitude
+above the river of 3200 feet. The view was extensive and their efforts
+were rewarded by obtaining much topographical information. Late in the
+day the sky grew dark, the thunder rolled, and just before supper we had
+a good shower.
+
+[Illustration: Canyon of Lodore--Dunn's Cliff.
+
+2800 Feet above River.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+On the 23d progress was continued and every one felt well after the
+cessation for a day of the knocking about amidst the foam and boulders.
+It took us, with hard work, till two o'clock to get past Triplet Falls
+by means of a double portage. About half a mile below this we were
+confronted by one of the worst looking places we had yet seen, and at
+the suggestion of Steward it received the significant name of "Hell's
+Half Mile." The entire river for more than half a mile was one sheet of
+white foam. There was not a quiet spot in the whole distance, and the
+water plunged and pounded in its fierce descent and sent up a deafening
+roar. The only way one could be heard was to yell with full lung power.
+Landing at the head of it easily we there unloaded the _Dean_ and let
+her down by line for some distance. In the worst place she capsized but
+was not damaged. Then the water, near the shore we were on, though
+turbulent in the extreme became so shallow on account of the great width
+of the rapid here that when we had again loaded the _Dean_ there were
+places where we were forced to walk alongside and lift her over rocks,
+but several men at the same time always had a strong hold on the shore
+end of the line. In this way we got her down as far as was practicable
+by that method. At this point the river changed. The water became more
+concentrated and consequently deeper. It was necessary to unload the
+boat again and work her on down with a couple of men in her and the rest
+holding the line on shore as we had done above. When the roughest part
+was past in this manner, we made her fast and proceeded to carry her
+cargo down to this spot which took some time. It was there put on board
+again and the hatches firmly secured. The boat was held firmly behind a
+huge sheltering rock and when all was ready her crew took their places.
+With the Major clinging to the middle cabin, as his chair had been left
+above and would be carried down later, we shoved out into the swift
+current, here free from rocks, and literally bounded over the waves that
+formed the end of the descent, to clear water where we landed on a snug
+little beach and made the boat secure for the night. Picking our way
+along shore back to the head of the rapid, camp was made there as the
+darkness was falling and nothing more could be done that night.
+
+[Illustration: Jones, Hillers, F. S. Dellenbaugh
+
+Canyon of Lodore.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+It was next to impossible to converse, but every one being very tired it
+was not long after supper before we took to the blankets and not a man
+was kept awake by the noise. It seemed only a few moments before it was
+time to go at it again. All hands were up early and the other two boats
+were taken laboriously down in the same manner as the _Dean_ had been
+engineered, but though we toiled steadily it was one o'clock by the time
+we succeeded in placing them alongside that boat. Anticipating this,
+Andy's utensils were taken down on the _Nell_, and while we were working
+with the _Cañonita_, our good chef prepared the dinner and we stopped
+long enough to fortify ourselves with it. Having to build a trail in
+some places in order to carry the goods across ridges and boulders, it
+was not alone the work on lowering the boats which delayed us. While we
+were absorbed in these operations the camp-fire of the morning in some
+way spread unperceived into the thick sage-brush and cedars which
+covered the point, and we vacated the place none too soon, for the
+flames were leaping high, and by the time we had finished our dinner at
+the foot of the rapid, the point we had so recently left was a horrible
+furnace. The fire was jumping and playing amidst dense smoke which
+rolled a mighty column, a thousand feet it seemed to me above the top of
+the canyon; that is over 3000 feet into the tranquil air.
+
+At two o'clock all three boats were again charging down on a stiff
+current with rather bad conditions, though we ran two sharp rapids
+without much trouble. In one the _Nell_ got on a smooth rock and came
+near capsizing. The current at the spot happened to be not so swift and
+she escaped with no damage. Then we were brought up by another rapid, a
+very bad one. Evening was drawing on and every man was feeling somewhat
+used up by the severe exertions of the day. Camp was therefore ordered
+at the head of this rapid in the midst of scenery that has probably as
+great beauty, picturesqueness, and grandeur as any to be found in the
+whole West. I hardly know how to describe it. All day long the
+surroundings had been supremely beautiful, majestic, but at this camp
+everything was on a superlative scale and words seem colourless and
+futile. The precipices on both sides, about 2200 feet high, conveyed the
+impression of being almost vertical. Our camp was several hundred yards
+from the rapid and we could talk with some comfort. After supper I
+wandered alone down beside the furiously plunging waters and came upon a
+brood of young magpies airing themselves on the sand. The roar of the
+fall prevented their hearing and I walked among them, picked one up and
+took it to camp to show their comicality, when I let it go back to the
+rendezvous. I was censured especially by the Major, for cruelty to
+animals.
+
+The next day was Sunday and it came with a radiance that further
+enhanced the remarkable grandeur around us. Near by was a side canyon of
+the most picturesque type, down which a clear little brook danced from
+ledge to ledge and from pool to pool, twenty to thirty feet at a time.
+We named it Leaping Brook. The rocks were mossy, and fir trees, pines,
+cedars, and cottonwoods added the charm of foliage to the brilliant
+colours of the rocks and the sheen of falling water, here and there lost
+in the most profound shadows. Beaman made a number of views while the
+rest of the men climbed for various purposes. Steward, Clem, and I by a
+circuitous route arrived at a point high up on Leaping Brook where the
+scene was beyond description. To save trouble on the return we descended
+the brook as it was easy to slide down places that could not be climbed.
+In this manner we succeeded in getting to the last descent near camp, to
+discover that it was higher than we thought and almost vertical with
+rough rocks at the bottom. As we could not go back and had no desire to
+break a leg, we were in trouble. Then we spied Jack in the camp a short
+distance away and called to him to put a tree up for us. Good-natured
+Jack, always ready to help, assumed a gruff tone and pretended he would
+never help us, but we knew better, and presently he threw up a long dead
+pine which we could reach by a short slide, and thus got to the river
+level. It was now noon, and as soon as dinner was over the boats were
+lowered by lines past the rapid beside camp and once below this we shot
+on our way with a fine current, soon arriving at two moderate rapids
+close together, which we ran. This brought us to a third with an ugly
+look, but on examination Prof. and the Major decided to run it. Getting
+a good entrance all the boats went through without the slightest mishap.
+A mile below this place we landed at the mouth of a pretty little stream
+entering through a picturesque and narrow canyon on the left. We called
+it Alcove Brook.
+
+Beaman took some negatives here. This was not the easy matter that the
+dry-plate afterwards made it, for the dark tent had to be set up, the
+glass plate flowed with collodion, then placed in the silver bath, and
+exposed wet in the camera, to be immediately developed and washed and
+placed in a special box for carriage.
+
+This would have been an ideal place for a hunter. Numerous fresh tracks
+of grizzlies were noticed all around, but we did not have the good luck
+to see any of the animals themselves. Happy grounds these canyons were
+at that time for the bears, and they may still be enjoying the seclusion
+the depths afford. The spot had an additional interest for us because it
+was here that on the first trip the brush caught fire soon after the
+party had landed, and they were forced to take to the boats so
+unceremoniously that they lost part of their mess-kit and some clothing.
+
+On leaving Alcove Brook we ran a rapid and then another a little farther
+on, but they were easy and the river was much calmer though the current
+was still very swift. At the same time the walls to our satisfaction
+began to give indications of breaking. They became less high, less
+compact, and we ventured to hope that our battle with the waters of
+Lodore was about over. The Major said that, as nearly as he could
+remember, the end of the great gorge was not very far below. Though the
+sky was beginning to show the evening tints we kept on and ever on,
+swiftly but smoothly, looking up at the sky and at the splendid walls.
+The sun went down. The chasm grew hazy with the soft light of evening
+and the mystery of the bends deepened. There was no obstruction and in
+about three miles from Alcove Brook we rather abruptly emerged into a
+beautiful small opening, where the immediate walls were no more than six
+hundred feet high. A river of considerable size flowed in on the left,
+through a deep and narrow canyon. This was the Yampa, sometimes then
+called Bear River. By seven o'clock we had moored the boats a few yards
+up its mouth and we made a comfortable camp in a box-elder grove. We
+had won the fight without disaster and we slept that night in peace.
+
+Lodore is wholly within the State of Colorado. It is 20-3/4 miles long
+with a descent of 420 feet,[9] mostly concentrated between Disaster
+Falls and Hell's Half-Mile, a distance of about 12 miles. The total
+descent from the Union Pacific crossing was 975 feet in a distance, as
+the river runs, of about 153 miles.
+
+[Illustration: Echo Park.
+
+Mouth of Yampa River in Foreground, Green River on Right.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 7: Professor Thompson's diary says he landed first after a
+hard pull, "and then caught the other boats below, they not succeeding
+in getting in."]
+
+[Footnote 8: In his report the Major ascribes the naming of this cliff
+to an evening on the first voyage. The incident could hardly have
+occurred twice even had the camps been in the same place.]
+
+[Footnote 9: In my _Romance of the Colorado River_ these figures were
+changed to 275 because of barometrical data supplied me which was
+supposed to be accurate. I have concluded that it was not.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+     A Remarkable Echo--Up the Canyon of the Yampa--Steward and
+     Clem Try a Moonlight Swim--Whirlpool Canyon and Mountain
+     Sheep--A Grand Fourth-of-July Dinner--A Rainbow-Coloured
+     Valley--The Major Proceeds in Advance--A Split Mountain with
+     Rapids a Plenty--Enter a Big Valley at Last.
+
+
+The little opening between canyons we named Echo Park, first because
+after the close quarters of Lodore it seemed very park-like, and second
+because from the smooth bare cliff directly opposite our landing a
+distinct echo of ten words was returned to the speaker. I had never
+before, and have never since, heard so clear and perfect an echo with so
+many words repeated. We were camped on the right bank of the Yampa as
+the left was a bottom land covered with cedars and we preferred higher
+ground. This bottom was an alluvial deposit triangular in shape about a
+mile long and a quarter of a mile wide with the Yampa and Green on two
+sides and a vertical sandstone wall on the third. Behind our camp the
+rocks broke back in a rough, steep slope for perhaps a quarter of a
+mile, and this with the bottom-land and the lack of height in the walls
+near the river conveyed an impression of wide expanse when compared with
+the narrow limits in which we had for eight days been confined. The
+Green was here about 400 feet wide and was held in on the western side
+of the park by the Echo Cliff which was a vertical wall some 600 feet
+high composed of homogeneous sandstone, and consequently almost without
+a crack from top to bottom where its smooth expanse dropped below the
+surface of the water. It extended down river about three-fourths of a
+mile, the river doubling around its southern end.
+
+The next day after arriving here most of us did not feel like doing any
+climbing and remained around camp, mending clothes and other articles,
+adjusting things that had become deranged by our rough work in the last
+canyon, recording notes, and making entries in diaries. Prof. took
+observations for latitude and longitude to establish the position of the
+Yampa so that it could be properly placed on the map. The Major during
+an exploring trip from the eastward in 1868 had reached the Yampa
+Canyon, but he could not cross it. He now decided to go up with a boat
+as far as possible in three days to supplement his former observations
+as well as to study the canyon in general. He had estimated its length
+at thirty miles, and this has proved to be correct. The _Dean_ was
+unloaded, and with three days' rations the Major started with her in the
+morning manned by Jack, Beaman, Jones, and Andy. Of course they were all
+still tired from the strain of Lodore, and they were not enthusiastic
+about seeing the Yampa. In such work as was common through Lodore, it is
+as much the tension on the nerves, even though this is not realised at
+the time, as it is the strain on the muscles in transporting the cargoes
+and the boats, which makes one tired. I was entirely satisfied not to
+go with the Yampa party and I believe all the others left behind felt
+much the same.
+
+Steward with Clem, when the Yampa expedition had gone, started back over
+the cliffs for Alcove Brook to geologise, leaving Prof. busy with
+observation, Cap. plotting the topographical notes and making his map
+thereby, and me with no special duty at the time. Every man who wants to
+be efficient in the field must learn to cook. This was my opportunity as
+Andy was absent and the others had their special work on hand, so I
+turned my attention to the culinary realm. A few directions and an
+example from Cap. who was a veteran gave me the method and I succeeded
+as my first offering, in placing before my comrades some biscuits hot
+from the Dutch oven, which compared favourably with those of Andy
+himself. With the constant practice Andy by this time had become an
+expert. The day wore away and at evening I got supper with more biscuits
+of which I was proud, but Steward and Clem failed to come to partake of
+them as we expected. Darkness fell and still there was dead silence
+outside of our camp. Much concerned we then ate supper momentarily
+expecting to hear their voices, but they did not come. Something had
+happened, but we could not follow their trail till morning to find out
+what it was. At ten o'clock we gave them up for the night deeply
+troubled about them. I had been sitting alone by the fire keeping the
+coffee hot and listening, when suddenly I heard a crackling of the
+bushes between me and the river and in a second or two Clem, laughing as
+over a joke, came to the fire with the water running off him in streams.
+While I was trying to get an explanation Steward also appeared in the
+same condition. At first they would not tell what had occurred but
+finally they confessed on condition that I would keep the matter a
+secret. They had made a long hard climb and late in the afternoon had
+come to a place where Steward found it necessary to descend to the river
+in examining the strata. They intended to climb back, but when the work
+was done the sun had set and it was too late to venture up as they could
+not climb in the dark. Rather than stay there all night they made a raft
+of two little dead cedars and tying their shoes upon it, they waited for
+the moon to rise. This was very soon and they slipped into the current
+relying on the raft merely to keep their heads above water. They knew
+there were no rapids between them and camp but they did not properly
+estimate the velocity of the river and the eddies and whirlpools. They
+kept near the left wall so as not to be carried past camp and in this
+they made a great mistake for they were caught in a whirlpool caused by
+a projection, and the raft was wrenched from them while they were
+violently thrown around. Steward being a powerful swimmer succeeded
+after nearly going under for good in regaining the raft which Clem
+meanwhile had been losing and recovering quickly several times. He was
+not a good swimmer. After this whirlpool was passed they reached the
+locality of our camp with no further adventure. They were very desirous
+that the story be kept from the rest of the party but they had hardly
+finished telling me when Prof. came and insisted on knowing what had
+occurred. Their punishment for this indiscretion was the hard climb back
+again to where they had left a rifle and other things that must be
+recovered.
+
+A delightful episode of this camp was a row which several of us made up
+the Yampa in the moonlight. As far as we went the current was not swift
+and we were able to pull gently along under the great cliffs in shadows
+made luminous by the brilliancy of the moon. A song the Major was fond
+of singing, _Softly and Sweetly it Comes from Afar_, almost
+involuntarily, sprang from us all, though our great songster, Jack, was
+not with us. Jack had an extensive repertory, an excellent voice, and a
+hearty, exuberant spirit. He would sing _Write Me a Letter from Home_,
+_The Colleen Bawn_, _The Lone Starry Hours_, _Beautiful Isle of the
+Sea_, and many others in a way that brought tranquillity to our souls.
+We missed him on this evening but nevertheless our song sounded well,
+echoing from wall to wall, and we liked it. Somehow or other that night
+remains one of the fairest pictures I have ever seen.
+
+Another day I went with Steward down across the triangular bottom to the
+lower end of the park where we climbed out through the canyon of a
+little brook to a sandy and desolate plateau. Currant bushes laden with
+fruit abounded and there were tracks of grizzlies to be seen. Possibly
+some may have been lying in the dense underbrush, but if so they kept
+their lairs as these bears generally do unless directly disturbed.
+
+On the 30th of June Prof., Steward, and Cap. went for a climb. They
+proceeded to the lower end of the park by boat and through the little
+canyon that came in there, got out to the plateau where Steward and I
+had before been, but there they went farther. After a very hard climb
+they succeeded in reaching the crest where they had a broad view and
+could see nearly all of the next canyon with its rapids which we would
+have to pass through; the canyon the Major had called Whirlpool on his
+first trip. They could also see the Yampa River for twenty miles and
+discovered the _Dean_ coming back down that stream, their attention
+being attracted by a gunshot in that direction, which they knew could be
+only from our own men. In camp during the day I again experimented in
+the culinary department, and produced two dried-apple pies, one of which
+Clem and I ate with an indescribable zest, and the other we kept to
+astonish the absentees with when they should reach camp. I have since
+learned that my method of pie-making was original I soaked the dried
+apples till they were soft then made a crust which had plenty of bacon
+grease in it for shortening and put the apples with sugar between,
+baking the production in the Dutch oven.
+
+About five o'clock the Yampa explorers came. They were ragged, tired,
+and hungry having had nothing to eat all day, and not enough any day, as
+the Major had not taken sufficient supplies in his desire to make the
+boat light. They were all rather cross, the only time on the whole
+expedition that such a state existed, but when they had eaten and rested
+their genial spirits came back, they even liked my pie, and they told us
+about their struggle up the canyon.
+
+We were all rather sorry to pull away from this comfortable camp at the
+mouth of the Yampa on July 3d, but the rapids of Whirlpool were
+challenging and we had to go and meet them. At the foot of Echo Park the
+Green doubles directly back on itself for a mile as it turns Echo Rock,
+the narrow peninsula of sandstone 600 feet high. The canyon became
+suddenly very close and assumed a formidable appearance. We listened for
+the roar of a rapid but for some time nothing was heard. The splendour
+of the walls impressed us deeply rising 2000 feet, many coloured,
+carved, and terraced elaborately. Our admiration was interrupted by a
+suggestive roar approaching and suddenly a violent rapid appeared. There
+was ample room and we got below it by a let-down, that is by lowering
+the boats one at a time with their cargoes on board, along the margin,
+working in and out of the side currents. Then we had dinner while
+waiting for the _Cañonita_ which had remained behind for pictures.
+
+A part of my work was to make a continuous outline sketch of the left
+wall for the use of the geologists and this I was able to do as we went
+along. I had a pocket on the bulkhead in front of my seat in which I
+kept a sole leather portfolio, which I could use quickly and replace in
+the waterproof pocket.
+
+The walls of the canyon became more flaring as soon as the rapid was
+passed at noon, but they lost none of their majesty. We now expected
+very bad river and whirlpools from the experience of the first party,
+but the river is never twice alike. Not only does its bottom shift, but
+every variation in stage of water brings new problems or does away with
+them entirely. It was an agreeable surprise to be able to run three
+rapids with ease by four o'clock, when we saw on some rocks two hundred
+feet above the stream a flock of mountain sheep. An immediate landing
+was made with fresh mutton in prospect. Unluckily our guns in
+anticipation of severe work had all been securely packed away, and it
+was some moments before they could be brought out. By that time the
+sheep had nimbly gone around a corner of the wall where a large side
+canyon was now discovered bringing in a fine creek. It was useless to
+follow the sheep though one or two made a brief trial, and camp was made
+in a cottonwood grove at the mouth of the creek. Cottonwoods fringed the
+stream as far as it could be seen from our position. Brush Creek we
+called it believing it to be the mouth of a stream in the back country
+known by that name. The next day, two or three miles up, a branch was
+found to come from the south, and as this was thought to be Brush Creek,
+the larger one was named after Cap., and "Bishop's Creek" was put on our
+map. Doubtless there are plenty of trout in this creek and in others we
+had passed, but we had no proper tackle for trout and besides seldom had
+time for fishing when at these places. Jack, when not too tired, fished
+in the Green and generally had good success. Our present locality would
+have been a rare place for a month or two's sojourn had we been
+sportsmen with time on our hands. Sheep, deer, and bear existed in
+abundance as well as smaller game, but we had to forget it though none
+of us cared about shooting for fun. Our minds were on other things.
+Often we went out leaving rifles behind as they were heavy in a climb.
+
+[Illustration: Whirlpool Canyon.
+
+Mouth of Bishop Creek--Fourth of July Camp.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+Scarcely had we settled ourselves in this beautiful camp when we
+discovered that we ourselves were the hunted, and by an enemy that we
+could not vanquish--ants. There was no place in the neighbourhood that
+was out of their range. The best I could do was to make my bed two feet
+from the nearest hill and let them have their way. Morning was hailed
+with unusual delight for this reason and also because it was the
+"glorious Fourth," a day that every American remembers wherever he may
+be. We fired several rounds as a salute, and the Major concluded to keep
+this camp till the next morning. To enable Andy to have a day off and a
+climb out with a party to the open, I agreed to run the cook outfit, and
+felt highly complimented that they were willing to trust me after the
+pie episode. I immediately resolved to try my skill again in that
+quarter and expected to astonish the camp. I succeeded. The bill of fare
+which I evolved was ham, dried-apple pie, dried apples stewed, canned
+peaches, sugar syrup, bread, coffee, and some candy from Gunther's in
+Chicago. The candy had been presented to me at Green River Station by
+some passing friends, and I had hidden it in my bag waiting for this
+grand occasion. Ham was quite as much of a luxury as candy, for we had
+started with but three or four, and only used them on special days. As
+for the canned peaches, they were the only ones we had. The supper was a
+memorable one; not a grumble was heard from anybody, indeed they all
+praised it, and the only drawback, from my point of view, was that the
+scouting party did not return early enough to taste it in its prime. The
+Major threatened to expel the member who had smuggled in the candy as
+all the men declared they would go no farther unless they could have a
+plate of it for desert at every meal!
+
+The next morning we were on the river early, glad to get away from the
+army of ants. The canyon walls ran along at about the same height as on
+the previous day, about 2400 feet, and while the river was swift and
+full of rapids everything seemed to favour us. Before halting for dinner
+we had run five rapids, three rather ugly, as well as letting down past
+one with lines. From where a stop was made for Andy's noonday
+operations, a flock of sheep was seen on the opposite side, and several
+went after them with no result but disappointment. When we started again
+we ran a rapid at once, then let down past the next, and followed that
+by running two more, the last the worst. The boats bumped occasionally
+on hidden rocks, but no harm was done them. The whole canyon was
+exceedingly beautiful, nevertheless we did not mourn when late in the
+afternoon, just after running the last rapid, the magnificent cliffs
+fell back and we saw more sky than at any time since leaving Brown's
+Park. On the right the rocks melted away into beautiful rainbow-coloured
+hills while on the left they remained steep, though retreating a mile or
+so from the water. The stretch of sky seemed enormous. Breathing
+appeared to be easier. The eye grows weary with the short range views,
+and yearns for space in which to roam.
+
+The valley we were now in was not long; about four miles in a straight
+line, with a width of two. In this space the river meanders nine miles,
+one detour being very long. It spreads also amongst a number of islands,
+and the numerous channels became shallow till our keels grated here and
+there. Then they concentrated once more and we floated along on waters
+deep and black and slow. The marvellous colouring in the surrounding
+landscape impressed us, and the Major was for a time uncertain whether
+to call this "Rainbow" or "Island" Park, the decision finally being
+given to the latter. Shortly before sunset our meanderings terminated at
+the foot of the valley where the river once more entered the rocks, in a
+gateway as abrupt, though not as imposing as that of Lodore. A fine
+grove of box-elders on the right just above this gate, offered an
+attractive camping place, and there we stopped.
+
+We were now in Utah again, having crossed the boundary somewhere in
+Whirlpool Canyon. The altitude was 4940 feet, showing a descent in
+Whirlpool Canyon of 140 feet in a distance of 14-1/4 miles. The next day
+I went with Beaman and Clem with a boat back to the foot of Whirlpool
+Canyon, in order that Beaman might get some views. It was a hard pull,
+and we discovered that what appears sluggish going down, is often the
+reverse to a boat going up. We could make headway only by keeping very
+close to the bank. It was supper-time when we again reached camp. The
+Major now announced that he intended to take the _Dean_ and go on ahead,
+without stopping anywhere, to the mouth of the Uinta River, leaving us
+to follow as we could in doing the work. Cap. was to be taken in my
+place because of his previous experience in the army and in the West.
+That evening all was made ready. By break of day the camp was astir,
+breakfast was disposed of as quickly as possible, the _Dean_ was manned,
+the Major went to his place on the middle cabin, they cast off and
+disappeared in the canyon gate. We then called this "Craggy Canyon," but
+later it was changed to Split Mountain.
+
+All of the others crossed the river to climb to the top of the cliffs
+for observations and for photographs. I was left alone to watch camp. I
+longed to experiment further in the cooking line, and discovering a bag
+of ground coffee leaning against the foot of a tree, I said to myself,
+"coffee cake." I had heard of it, I had eaten it, I would again surprise
+the boys. I had no eggs, no butter, no milk (condensed milk was unknown
+at that time), but I had flour, water, cream of tartar, saleratus,
+sugar, salt, and ground coffee. I thought these quite enough, and went
+at my task. The mixture I made I put in a small tin and baked in the
+Dutch oven. I was so much occupied with this interesting experiment that
+I forgot all about time and about having something substantial ready for
+the return of the hungry climbers, so when they did come about noon, as
+famished as coyotes and dead tired, all I could offer was _the_ cake,
+ever after famous on that trip, a brown, sugary solid, some six inches
+in diameter, two inches thick, and betraying its flavour everywhere by
+the coffee-grounds scattered lavishly through it. Andy gave it one brief
+sad look, and then went to work to get dinner. But they were such a rare
+lot of good fellows that they actually praised that cake and not only
+that, they ate it. The cake led to the discovery that the Major's party
+had left behind all their coffee, which was what I had used for
+flavouring, and they would have to content themselves with tea. From the
+heights our men had reached they could see, with a glass, the _Dean_
+working rapidly down the river. Next day another party went up to the
+same place, and I went along. The photographic outfit had been left
+there because rain the day before had spoiled the view, and we were to
+bring it down when more views had been taken. After a strong, steep
+climb we found ourselves on a peak or pinnacle about 3000 feet above the
+river, and therefore 7940 above sea-level.
+
+The view from this point was extraordinary. Far below gleamed the river
+cleaving the rocks at our feet, and visible for several miles in the
+canyon churning its way down, the rapids indicated by bars of white. One
+hardly knew which way to look. Crags about us projected into the canyon,
+and I was inspired to creep out upon a long finger of sandstone where I
+could sit astride as on a horse and comfortably peer down into the
+abyss. It was an absolutely safe place, but Beaman and Clem feared the
+crag might break off with me, and they compelled me to come back to
+relieve their minds. Seldom does one have such a chance to see below as
+well as I could there. The long, narrow mountain stretched off to the
+west, seeming not more than a half-mile wide, and split open for its
+whole length by the river, which has washed its canyon longitudinally
+through it. In all directions were mountains, canyons, and crags in
+bewildering profusion.
+
+When Beaman had ended his labours we started down the cliffs with his
+apparatus. This was the terror of the party. The camera in its strong
+box was a heavy load to carry up the rocks, but it was nothing to the
+chemical and plate-holder box, which in turn was a featherweight
+compared to the imitation hand-organ which served for a dark room. This
+dark box was the special sorrow of the expedition, as it had to be
+dragged up the heights from 500 to 3000 feet. With this machinery we
+reached camp pretty tired and glad to rest the remainder of the day,
+especially as Prof. said we would enter the new canyon the next morning.
+This was Sunday. A few minutes after starting we passed between
+perpendicular strata rising out of the water, and gradually bending
+above over to the horizontal, then breaking into crags. I never saw
+anything more like an artificial wall, so evenly were the rocky beds
+laid one against another. As we passed into the more broken portion a
+flock of sheep came into view high up on the crags on the right standing
+motionless evidently puzzled by the sound of our oars. We fired from the
+moving boats, but without result. Recovering from their surprise the
+sheep bounded lightly away. Our attention was required the next moment
+by a rapid which we ran--it was a small one--to find it followed by many
+thickly set with rocks. At the first we let down by line for half a
+mile, when we had dinner. Then we let down by line another half-mile,
+and ran half a mile more in easy water to the head of a very bad place,
+one of the worst we had seen, where we made another let-down. There was
+never any difficulty about landing when we desired, which made the work
+comparatively easy. The _Cañonita_ got some hard knocks and had to be
+repaired at one place before we could go on. The total distance made was
+only about three miles, but we could have gone farther had we not
+stopped for investigations, and to mend the boat.
+
+[Illustration: Split Mountain Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871]
+
+Wet and weary we welcomed the order to camp, about five o'clock, and
+made ourselves comfortable with dry clothes from our rubber bags, the
+wet ones being spread, as was our custom, on rocks to dry. At high water
+many of these rapids would be rendered much easier. A quarter of a mile
+below camp was a small cave thirty or forty feet deep, very picturesque,
+with the river dashing into it, and in the water in front a rock twenty
+feet high, which had dropped down from somewhere above. Beaman got a
+very good picture here.
+
+The river was falling fast and as the water lowered rocks more and more
+showed themselves in the rapids. Low water increases the labour but it
+increases the safety as well, for the velocity is less and the boats are
+more easily controlled.
+
+The next day, July 10th, we did not start on down the river till one
+o'clock. Then we lowered the boats past two rapids and ran six, of which
+four were very bad on account of numerous rocks. Occasionally a boat
+would strike but none was injured seriously. The sun was directly in our
+faces blinding us, and a high wind was blowing which added to the
+difficulties. The walls were often vertical for a thousand feet or more,
+and the river was wide and shallow. There was a scorching hot sun, the
+temperature being near 100 in the shade. The rocks and even the sand
+became so hot that they were uncomfortable to the touch, but there was
+one advantage in this dry heat--our clothes were soon dry. During this
+day we landed on the wrong side to examine one rapid and had to run it
+from there. Both boats got through with only slight raps and we went on
+a short distance to camp at the head of a bad descent which was not
+runable at this stage of water. In the morning a line-portage was easily
+accomplished and we ran down a short distance farther when we stopped
+for dinner on a sandy beach. The sand scorched my feet for I had been
+without shoes for several days. All our shoes were giving out and mine
+were the first to go completely. Fortunately Beaman had an extra pair of
+army brogans which he lent me till we should reach Uinta. I had ordered,
+by advice in Chicago, two pairs of fine shoes at thirteen dollars a
+pair, but I now discovered that I ought to have bought shoes at two
+dollars instead for such work as this. We hoped to be able to get some
+new shoes from Salt Lake when we reached the Uinta River and again would
+be in touch, even though a very long touch, with the outside world. Our
+soap was all gone too, and supplies of every kind were getting low.
+
+In the afternoon three more rapids were run and at a fourth we were
+compelled to make a line-portage. Then we saw the strata begin to curve
+over and down and finally drop into the river just as they had come out
+of it at the beginning. The crevices were filled with ferns and in
+places clear water was dripping from these little green cliff gardens.
+As we ran along the foot of the left wall we saw a peculiar and
+beautiful spring which had carved out a dainty basin where a multitude
+of ferns and kindred plants were thriving, a silvery rill dropping down
+from them. We emerged from the canyon as abruptly as we had entered it,
+and saw a broad valley stretching before us. Running a quarter of a mile
+on a smooth river camp was made on the right on a level floor carpeted
+with grass and surrounded by thickets of oak. We were in the beginning
+of what is now called Wonsits (Antelope) Valley, about eighty-seven
+miles long, the only large valley on the river above the end of Black
+Canyon. Split-Mountain Canyon eight miles long has one of the greatest
+declivities on the river, coming next to Lodore, though it differs from
+the latter in that the descent is more continuous and not broken into
+short, violent stretches. There would be plain sailing now to the head
+of the Canyon of Desolation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+     A Lookout for Redskins--The River a Sluggard--A
+     Gunshot!--Someone Comes!--The Tale of a Mysterious Light--How,
+     How! from Douglas Boy--At the Mouth of the Uinta--A Tramp to
+     Goblin City and a Trip down White River on a Raft--A
+     Waggon-load of Supplies from Salt Lake by Way of Uinta
+     Agency--The Major Goes Out to Find a Way In.
+
+
+Our thoughts now were mainly directed to pushing on to the mouth of the
+Uinta River and picking up our advance party, which by this time must
+have gotten in touch with the Uinta Agency. We felt gratified that
+another of the long line of canyons was a thing of the past and that for
+a brief time we would have easy water, so far as rapids were concerned.
+We were reminded that this was Indian country by discovering on a smooth
+face of rock wall not far from camp a lot of drawings pecked into the
+stone. They represented figures of natives, bison, elk, deer, mountain
+sheep, grizzly tracks, etc., and as they were the first pictographs I
+had ever seen I was particularly interested. The bison pictures
+indicated the former presence here in this valley of that fine animal.
+Numbers indeed once ranged these hills and valleys, but they had all
+disappeared many years before our voyage. We were on the lookout for
+Indians. As long as we were encompassed by the mighty walls of the
+canyons there was little probability of our meeting with any of the
+original people of this soil, but the valley now opening wide before us
+was their favourite haunt. Two divisions of Utes roamed the surrounding
+region. On the west it was the Uinta Utes who, we knew, were peaceable,
+and on the east it was the White River Utes, whose status as to peace
+and war was at that period somewhat vague and uncertain. We expected no
+trouble with any of them, yet the possibility of running at any moment
+on a band gave added interest and colour to the voyage. This was
+intensified by the feeling that we had suddenly been thrown out of
+doors, unprotected, as the huge, dominating precipices broke so suddenly
+back on both sides, leaving us hardly a rock with which, in case of
+necessity, to emulate the example of Roderick Dhu. Probably if we had
+travelled here on horseback in the open there would not have been this
+sense of having left our fortification behind.
+
+July 12th the boats proceeded down a river so sluggish that the term
+"down" seemed a misnomer, and we actually had to row; had to work at the
+oars to make the boats go; these same boats which so recently had
+behaved like wild horses. This was not to our taste at all, the weather
+being extremely hot. But there was no help for it. The boats fairly went
+to sleep and we tugged away at their dull, heavy weight, putting the
+miles behind and recalling the express-train manner of their recent
+action. On each side of us there were occasional groves of cottonwoods
+and wide bottoms bounded by low hills. After about ten miles of steady
+pulling we discovered that we were only 2-1/2 miles from our starting
+place in a straight line. Here there was a superb cottonwood grove,
+massive trees with huge trunks like oaks, on the left. We found the
+remains of a camp-fire and decided that our advance party had come this
+far from Island Park the first day. They had accomplished a phenomenal
+run, but it showed what might be done with light boats and a full crew.
+As Steward desired to make some geological examinations at this point,
+Prof. announced that we would stay till morning. Another cause for
+stopping was a gale which blew with great force, making rowing
+exceedingly hard work, and it was hard enough anyhow with no good
+current to help.
+
+Steward wished to go across the river, and I went with him. We tramped
+with our Winchesters on our shoulders for several hours, examining rocks
+and fossils. On our return we found that Andy was occupied in boiling a
+goose which Prof.'s sure aim had bestowed on the larder, and we had the
+bird for supper. If it was not one of the fossils it certainly was one
+of the "oldest inhabitants," which are found in every locality, and
+though a steady diet of bacon enthused us with an ambition to masticate
+this noble morsel, it had to be relegated to the impossibilities. We had
+a good deal of entertainment out of it, and while so engaged every ear
+caught the sound of a faint, distant gunshot. This was proof that we
+were no longer alone, and the question was, "How many Indians are
+there?" We simply waited developments. Night came on and the fierce wind
+died away completely as the sun went down. We gave no more thought to
+the shot, but all went to bed without even leaving a watch, so confident
+was Prof. that there was no enemy, and no danger of a surprise. He was
+always "level-headed" and never went off on a tangent doing wild or
+unwarranted things. He was a man of unusually sound judgment.
+
+In the absence of Cap. the duty of reading barometer had fallen to me,
+and sometimes, when waiting for the hour to arrive, I had to sit alone
+for a time when the others already had turned in. It was that way on
+this night, and I waited with some impatience for nine o'clock to come.
+For the purpose of reading the scale we used a small bull's-eye lantern
+belonging to a transit instrument, and it threw out a long beam of
+light. I entertained myself by flashing this beam of light in various
+directions to the distress of one member lying near not asleep, who was
+somewhat nervous as to the character of the Indians responsible for the
+shot.
+
+"Confound it," he growled, "you'll have the whole Ute tribe down on us!
+You know they are not far off!"
+
+Of course I desisted in my "signalling," but Prof., not yet asleep,
+spoke up saying he did not believe any Indians would bother us.
+Finishing the observations I put out the lantern, and settled in my
+blankets. At that instant there was the flash of a light through the
+trees and then it glowed steadily for a moment and went out. My nervous
+neighbour saw it too. "There," he cried, "an answer to your confounded
+signal!" Several saw it. "The evening star setting beyond the hill,"
+they declared, derisively, but we two maintained that it was nothing
+less than a light near by. Then sleep ruled the camp. In the middle of
+the night there was a sudden terrific cracking, rending, and crashing,
+starting all to their feet except Clem, who was not wakened by it. What
+had happened? We perceived in a second. One of the enormous limbs,
+weakened by the wind, had broken off and dropped to the ground in the
+middle of the camp. Luckily no one was under it and no harm was done,
+but for a moment, in connection with the light episode and the gunshot,
+it gave us a shock. Every one laughed, and soon the camp was still
+again. The sun was well up before we awoke. Immediately the discussion
+of the strange light came up, and it formed a lively and amusing topic,
+not only then, but ever after for months. Breakfast became a stirring
+debating scene, when plump into the midst of our hilarity, as if to
+emphasise the declarations of the nervous member, there came a sharp
+call from beyond a line of bushes. Almost on the instant appeared an
+Indian mounted on a dark bay horse trotting towards us exclaiming, "How,
+how!" and holding out his hand in token of friendship. His long black
+hair hung behind in two tails braided with red and black cotton cloth.
+The scalp at the part was painted vermilion, and around each eye was a
+ring of the same bright colour. His shirt was of the kind called
+hickory, and his leggins were of red woollen stuff. Altogether he was a
+good looking specimen of his race, and about twenty-five years old. How
+many more might be behind we could not tell.
+
+He dismounted and Clem grasped him warmly by the hand, exclaiming with
+his most cordial smile, "Well, how are all the folks at home?" to which
+the visitor of course made no answer. Not one of our party understood
+Ute, and I had never seen a "wild" Indian at such close quarters before.
+The man motioned for something to eat, so Andy gave him a plate of
+breakfast, but there was a twinkle in Andy's blue eye, for the breakfast
+consisted largely of the rejected goose. When the red man's vision
+rested on the goose he gave a grunt of disgust and made no effort to
+even taste it, though he relished the other things and a cup of hot
+coffee. I have noticed that all Indians are very fond of coffee. We
+gleaned that he was alone with his squaw, and had a wickiup down the
+river a short distance. Doubtless he had examined our camp the previous
+night. The barometer hanging to a tree-branch caught his eye, and I
+tried by signs to explain it to him with no success except to convulse
+the whole crew. At length with the exclamation "Squaw," he rode away and
+came back with his fair partner riding behind. By this time we were
+packed up and we pushed off, the pair watching us with deep interest.
+About a mile and a half below by the river, we came on them again at
+their camp, they having easily beaten us by a short cut. Here was his
+wickiup made of a few cottonwood boughs, and in front of it the ashes of
+a fire. Our side immediately claimed this was the light we had seen, and
+the discussion of this point continued until another night put an end to
+it. In the bough shelter sat the blooming bride of "Douglas Boy," as he
+called himself, Douglas being the chief of the White River Utes. She was
+dressed well in a neat suit of navy-blue flannel and was lavishly
+adorned with ornaments. Her dress was bound at the waist by a heavy belt
+of leather, four inches wide, profusely decorated with brass discs and
+fastened by a brass buckle. She was young and quite pretty, and they
+were a handsome couple. He intimated that he would be grateful to be
+ferried across the river, here almost half a mile wide, so his blankets,
+saddles, and whole paraphernalia were piled on the boats, while the two
+horses were driven into the water and pelted with stones till they made
+up their minds that the farther shore offered greater hospitality, and
+swam for it. Then the squaw and the brave were taken on separate boats.
+She hesitated long before finally trusting herself, and was exceedingly
+coy about it. She had probably never seen a boat before. At last,
+overcoming her fear she stepped tremblingly on board and in a few
+minutes we had them landed on the other side, where we said farewell and
+went on.
+
+In the afternoon we discovered a number of natives on the right bank and
+landed to see what they were. Nothing more terrible than several badly
+frightened squaws and children occupied the place, the men being away.
+We thought this call on the ladies would suffice, and presenting them
+with a quantity of tobacco for their absent lords, we pulled away,
+leaving them still almost paralysed with fright and astonishment at our
+sudden and unexpected appearance and disappearance. The valley was now
+very wide, and the river spread to a great width also, giving conditions
+totally different from any we had found above. Rowing was real labour
+here, but Prof. was eager to arrive at the mouth of the Uinta the next
+day so it was row, row, with a strong, steady, monotonous stroke, hour
+after hour till we had put twenty miles behind when we stopped for the
+night. Next morning the same programme was continued from seven o'clock
+on, with a brief halt for dinner. About four a storm came up, compelling
+us to wait an hour, when on we pulled, with a temperature something like
+100°F., in the shade, till sunset, when about forty miles from our
+starting point, we arrived at the mouth of a river on the right, which
+we thought must be the Uinta. But finally as there was no sign of our
+advance party we concluded there must be a mistake. There was so little
+current in the tributary we thought it might be something besides a
+river, the mouth of a lake perhaps, and that the Uinta was farther on.
+About a mile down in the dim light there appeared to be a river mouth,
+but on reaching the place there was nothing of the kind. Several signal
+shots were fired. They fell dead on the dull stillness of the night
+which was dropping fast upon us. We took to the oars once more and
+pulled down nearly another mile till the dark grew so thick it was not
+prudent to proceed, and Prof. ordered a landing on the left where we
+made a hasty cup of coffee to refresh the inner man, and turned in, much
+puzzled and troubled by the absence of any kind of a signal from the
+advance party. Some one suggested that they had all been killed, but
+Prof. met this with scornful ridicule and went to sleep. When daylight
+came a river was discovered less than half a mile below our camp coming
+in from the east. Prof. knew this to be White River from the map, the
+mouths of White and Uinta rivers having long been quite accurately
+established. The mouth of the Uinta must therefore be where we had been
+the night before, and Prof. walked back till he came opposite to it. We
+then got the boats back by rowing and towing, and landed on the right or
+west bank about a quarter of a mile above the mouth of the Uinta, where
+the old time crossing had been, and which we had passed unnoticed in the
+evening light. Here were the ashes of a camp-fire, and after much
+searching a tin can was found with a note in it from the Major, saying
+they had all gone out to the Agency, and that we were to wait here.
+
+A large cottonwood tree stood on the low bank where travellers before
+had camped, not in going up and down the river, but on their way across
+country. It was a very old tree and its bark presented many marks,
+names, and dates, and I regret now that I did not copy them for
+reference. This was one of the known crossings for a long period, in
+fact, it was through this valley that Escalante, the first white man to
+cross Green River, travelled in 1776, and it is possible that he may
+have camped under this very tree.[10] We settled there to wait, harassed
+by multitudes of voracious mosquitoes. All day we remained, expecting
+the absentees, but the sun went down and still there was no word. About
+seven o'clock while we were eating supper, some shots and yells from the
+west took us to the top of the bank, and we saw two horsemen galloping
+towards our position. We soon made them out to be Cap. and Jones. They
+brought a large mail, a portion of it the same we had tried to stop at
+Salt Lake, and have returned to us at the Gate of Lodore, and they
+reported that the Major had gone out to Salt Lake. We built up a good
+fire, and by its light everyone was quickly lost in letters from home.
+
+The next morning we got the _Dean_ out of the bushes where she had been
+well hidden, and moved across the river with the whole outfit, to a
+place in front of a half-finished log cabin called Fort Robideau, after
+the trapper of that name, who years before had roamed this country. A
+road crossing here from Golden to Provo, 413 miles long, was laid out in
+1861 by Berthoud and Bridger for the Overland Stage Company, but the
+Civil War and the building of the Union Pacific had prevented its
+realisation.[11] The cabin had no windows or doors, but for summer that
+was not a defect. The mud roof was intact, and we used the cabin for
+headquarters, though we preferred to sleep out on the ground. Back of
+the building a wide level plain spread away and deer and antelope ranged
+there in large numbers. Any short walk would start up antelope, but we
+had other matters on our mind, and made no special effort to shoot any.
+It would have been easy for a trained hunter to get all he wanted, or
+even for one of us to do it had we dropped other things and given our
+minds to the work.
+
+The following Monday, July 17th, Prof. and Beaman left for the Agency,
+and on Friday of the same week Jack returned accompanied by a man named
+Basor, driving a large four-horse waggon loaded with supplies for us. We
+were in need of them. We had been completely out of soap for two weeks
+or more, and a box of that essential article was broken open the first
+thing. Jack also brought from the Agency garden some lettuce, new
+potatoes, and turnips. Not having tasted any vegetables for two months,
+these were a great treat. The same afternoon Basor went away taking
+letters from us with him to be sent to Salt Lake. One of the special
+things he had brought was three long, narrow pieces of flat iron made by
+the Agency blacksmith from old wagon tires, for the keels of the boats,
+which were badly worn by scraping on shoals and rocks in our portaging
+and letting-down operations.
+
+On the next Monday, Cap., Steward, and I with five days' rations on our
+backs as well as blankets enough for the warm nights, and our rifles,
+started on a journey up White River to a place called Goblin City by one
+of the earlier explorers who had crossed the valley. As we were going
+through some heavy willows about noon, I discovered standing still
+before me and not a hundred feet away the finest stag I have ever seen.
+He stood like a Landseer picture, head erect and alert with huge
+branching antlers poised in the air. He was listening to my companions
+who were a little distance from me. My gun being tied to my pack for
+easy travelling I could not quickly extricate it and before I could
+bring it to bear he dashed through the willows and a sensible shot was
+impossible. I admired him so much that I was rather glad I could not
+shoot. We came across a great deal of game, antelope, mountain sheep,
+and deer but we never seemed to have the opportunity to stalk it
+properly. When we finally came in sight of the Goblin City it was six
+o'clock of the second day and we had travelled steadily. At the farther
+end of a level little valley surrounded by cliffs were numerous small
+buttes and square rocks, almost in rows and about the size of small
+buildings, so that there was a striking suggestion of a town. We slept
+near the river and spent the next morning in examining the locality.
+When we had completed the observations I got dinner while Steward and
+Cap. with our gun-straps and some buckskin strings made a raft from
+small cottonwood logs we found on the bank. Upon this weaving affair we
+all three embarked to descend the river in order to meander the course
+as well as to save our legs. Steward and Cap. stood at either end with
+long poles while I sat in the middle and took the compass sights as we
+passed along. There were some sharp little rapids full of rocks, and
+sometimes it was all we could do to stick on, for the raft being
+flexible naturally would straddle a big rock and take the form of a very
+steep house roof. The banks were thick with currant bushes loaded with
+ripe fruit and we kept a supply of branches on the raft to pick off the
+currants as we went along. Everywhere there were many fresh tracks of
+bears for they are fond of this fruit, but if they saw us we failed to
+see them, though some of the tracks appeared to have been made not more
+than a few minutes before. As we drifted between high banks there was a
+violent crashing of bushes and a beautiful fawn, evidently pursued by
+bear or wolf, plunged through and dropped into the stream. Cap. took a
+shot at it from the wobbling raft but of course failed. The fawn landed
+at the bottom of a mud wall ten feet high and for a moment seemed dazed,
+but by some herculean effort it gained the plain and sped away to
+freedom and we were not at all sorry to see it go. All the next day we
+kept on down White River on the raft and at seven o'clock were still
+five miles from camp in a direct course and no food left. As the stream
+meandered a great deal we parted from it and went to headquarters on
+foot.
+
+We now expected hourly the return of Prof. and the Major, but another
+day passed without them or any message. The next day was Saturday and it
+faded away also without any event. Just after supper there was a hail
+from the west bank and on going over with a boat we found there Prof.,
+Beaman, and an Indian. The Major had not come because Captain Dodds,
+commanding the party which was charged with the taking of rations for us
+to the mouth of the Dirty Devil River, our next supply station, had sent
+word that he could not find a way through the unknown region. The Major
+concluded that he would have to go and try it himself. His plan was for
+us to go on and he would join us again August 25th at Gunnison Crossing,
+at the end of the Canyon of Desolation, the next canyon of the series.
+Gunnison Crossing was an established point with a trail leading there
+from east and west. We were to wait for him till September 3d in that
+neighbourhood, and if he failed to arrive we were to go on and get
+through as best we could on the rations remaining. Our present
+intercourse with the world was now terminated by our sending the Indian
+who had come with Prof. back to the Agency with our mail. Prof. had
+brought in some fresh beef which was a great treat but there was little
+of it and after a couple of meals we were on bacon and beans again. Had
+an Indian from the Agency been hired for the purpose of hunting, we
+might have had plenty of venison during our stop here. Sunday our old
+acquaintance Douglas Boy came to camp and was employed to make moccasins
+to save our shoes. Some new shoes had been sent in to us, but for
+climbing and walking the rawhide-soled moccasins were excellent and
+would save our shoes for river work. The Indian had a beaded cap pouch
+which I secured from him for some vermilion and he was ready to trade,
+but the next day Jack caught him trying to steal our buckskin by hiding
+it in his blankets which rudely sundered our business relations. Jack
+himself acquired the art of moccasin-making and he made each of us an
+excellent pair in his spare time. Steward and I went back up White River
+to finish our work but the raft timbers were gone and we could find no
+others, so we had to do what we could on foot. When we returned I
+discovered some ginger among the supplies and thinking it time for
+variety in our bill of fare, and it being Cap.'s birthday, I made a
+large ginger-cake which was voted prime. We ate half of it at one
+sitting with an accompaniment of lime-juice "lemonade."
+
+At the Agency Prof. found out that Douglas Boy had eloped from the White
+River country with his squaw, who was betrothed to another, and when we
+first met him he was engaged in eluding pursuit. According to Ute law if
+he could avoid capture for a certain time he would be free to return
+without molestation to his village. Beaman photographed him and a number
+of the Uintas under the direction of the Major, who wished to secure all
+the information possible about the natives, their language, customs, and
+costumes. We now spent several days arranging our new supplies in the
+rubber sacks, putting the iron strips on the boat-keels, and doing what
+final repairing was necessary. The topographers plotted the map work,
+and all finished up their necessary notes and data. By the afternoon of
+Friday, August 4th, all was in readiness for continuing the voyage. We
+had now descended 1450 feet from our starting point towards sea-level
+and we knew that the next canyon would add considerably to these
+figures.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 10: Two days after crossing the San Clemente, as he called
+White River, Escalante crossed the Rio San Buenaventura (Green River)
+somewhere above the mouth of White River. Here were six large "black
+poplars," on one of which they left an inscription. After resting two
+days they went south-west along the Buenaventura, ten leagues, and from
+a hill saw the junction of the San Clemente. He evidently went very near
+the mouth of the Uinta, and then struck westward. The Uinta he called
+Rio de San Cosme.]
+
+[Footnote 11: A regiment of California volunteers marched this way from
+Salt Lake on the way to Denver during the Civil War.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+     On to Battle--A Concert Repertory--Good-bye to Douglas
+     Boy--The Busy, Busy Beaver--In the Embrace of the Rocks Once
+     More--A Relic of the Cliff-Dwellers--Low Water and Hard
+     Work--A Canyon of Desolation--Log-cabin Cliff--Rapids and
+     Rapids and Rapids--A Horse, Whose Horse?--Through Gray Canyon
+     to the Rendezvous.
+
+
+We were up early on the morning of August 5th prepared to leave Camp
+32. Prof. took a lunar observation, and at eight we entered the boats
+and turned our backs on "Fort" Robideau, the only house on or near the
+whole river at that time from the mouth of the Virgin, to our Camp No. 1
+where we had the snow-storm, a distance of about one thousand miles. We
+had vanquished many rapids and now we pushed on ready for our next
+battle with the river in the Canyon of Desolation, just before us. The
+order of going was slightly changed in the absence of the Major, for
+Prof., being now in sole command, went ahead with his boat, the _Nellie
+Powell_, while ours, the _Emma Dean_, for the time being took second
+place. The river for a brief distance ran smoothly with only enough
+current, about two miles an hour, to help us along without hard rowing.
+I missed the Major while we were on the water, probably more than any
+one else in the party, for as we were facing each other the whole time
+and were not separated enough to interfere with conversation we had
+frequent talks. He sometimes described incidents which happened on the
+first voyage, or told me something about the men of that famous and
+unrivalled journey. Besides this he was very apt to sing, especially
+where the river was not turbulent and the outlook was tranquil, some
+favourite song, and these songs greatly interested me. While he had no
+fine voice he sang from his heart, and the songs were those he had
+learned at home singing with his brothers and sisters. One of these was
+an old-fashioned hymn, _The Home of the Soul_, or rather the first two
+verses of it. These verses were among his special favourites.[12]
+
+    "I will sing you a song of that beautiful land,
+      The far away home of the soul,
+    Where no storms ever beat on the glittering strand,
+      While the years of eternity roll,
+      While the years of eternity roll;
+    Where no storms ever beat on the glittering strand
+      While the years of eternity roll.
+
+    "Oh! that home of the soul in my visions and dreams,
+      Its bright jasper walls I can see;
+    Till I fancy but thinly the veil intervenes
+      Between the fair city and me
+          Till I fancy, etc."
+
+Another was a pretty four-part song, _The Laugh of a Child_, of which he
+sang the air. The words ran:
+
+    "I love it, I love it, the laugh of a child.
+    Now rippling, now gentle, now merry and wild.
+    It rings through the air with an innocent gush,
+    Like the trill of a bird at the twilight's soft hush,
+    It floats on the breeze like the tones of a bell,
+    Or music that dwells in the heart of a shell.
+    Oh, the laugh of a child is so wild and so free
+    'T is the merriest sound in the world to me."
+
+Still another of which he sang the English words often was the
+well-known air from _Figaro_. I give a few bars:
+
+[Illustration:
+
+_NON PIU ANDRAI_--PLAY NO MORE.
+Air. Figaro.
+
+    Non più andrai, far-fal-lo-ne a-mo-ro-so,
+    Not-te gior-no d'in-tor-no gi-ran-do;
+    Del-le bel-le tur-ban-do il ri-po-so,
+    Nar-ci-set-to, A-don-ci-no d'a-mor!
+    Del-le bel-le tur-ban-do il ri-po-so,
+    Nar-ci-set-to, A-don-ci-no d'a-mor!
+
+    Play no more, boy, the part of a lov-er,
+    Nor a-bout beau-ty fool-ish-ly hov-er;
+    In the wars you'll more pleasure dis-cov-er,
+    When your heart beats to glo-ry and fame!
+    In the wars you'll more pleasure dis-cov-er,
+    When your heart beats to glo-ry and fame!]
+
+At times he imitated a certain pathetic yet comical old woman he had
+heard singing at some camp-meeting, "The dear blessed Bible, the
+Fam-i-ly Bible," etc. He told me one day that this fondness for singing,
+especially amid extremely unpromising or gloomy circumstances, had on
+more than one occasion led the men of the first expedition to suspect
+his sanity. When he was singing, I could see that frequently he was
+really not thinking about his song at all, but of something quite
+foreign to it, and the singing was a mere accompaniment. Our party as a
+whole commanded an extensive repertory of song for an exploring
+expedition and while most of the voices were somewhat below concert
+requirement, there was no one to object, and one of us, Jack, did have
+an excellent voice. A song often heard was, _Shells of Ocean_ and also
+that one most appropriate, _What Are the Wild Waves Saying?_ Then there
+was _If I Had but a Thousand a Year, Gaffer Green_, and of course,
+_Annie Laurie_. Never was there an American or an English expedition to
+anywhere that did not have that song, as well as _Way Down upon the
+Suwanee River_. In addition to all these and the ones previously
+mentioned of which
+
+    "Oh, the lone starry hours give me Love
+    When still is the beautiful night,"
+
+was a special favourite, Jack's individual repertory contained an
+exhaustless number, both sad and gay. There were _Carry me Back to Old
+Tennessee_, _The Sailor's Grave_, _Aura Lee_, with her golden hair, who
+brought sunshine and swallows indiscriminately to each locality which
+she graced with the said golden hair, and _Come where my Love Lies
+Dreaming_, _Seeing Nellie Home_, and scores or at least dozens that I
+fail to recall.
+
+But while we had a great store of songs we were deficient to the last
+degree in musical instruments, the one solitary example being an humble
+mouth-organ which in a moment of weakness I had thrown in with my
+outfit. We just escaped having a flute. Frank, who left us on the 10th
+of June, possessed one, and when he was preparing to go Steward
+negotiated for this instrument. He gave Cap. his revolver to trade for
+it, considering the flute more desirable property for the expedition.
+Cap., being an old soldier, concluded to fire at a mark before letting
+the revolver pass forever from our possession. Presently there was an
+explosion which demolished the pistol and all our prospects of acquiring
+the musical treasure at one and the same moment. Possibly Fortune was
+kinder to us than we dreamed. The mouth-organ then remained the sole
+music machine in all that immense area. I did not feel equal to the
+position of organist but Steward boldly took up the study, and practised
+so faithfully that he became a real virtuoso.
+
+As a boy in New York Jack, though not a Hibernian himself, had
+associated closely with descendants of the Shamrock Isle, and he could
+speak with a fine emerald brogue. A refrain of one of his songs in this
+line was: "And if the rocks, they don't sthop us, We will cross to
+Killiloo, whacky-whay!" This sounded our situation exactly, and it
+became a regular accompaniment to the roaring of the rapids. Jack had
+many times followed in the wake of the Thirteen Eagles fire company, one
+of the bright jewels with a green setting, of the old volunteer service.
+The foreman, fitting the rest of the company, was Irish too, and his
+stentorian shout through the trumpet "Tirtaan Aigles, dis wai!" never
+failed to rise above the din, and when the joyful cry smote the ears of
+the gallant "Tirtaan," the rocks nor the ruts nor the crowds nor
+anything could stop them; through thick and through thin they went to
+the front, for there was rivalry in those days and when the Aigles time
+after time got first water on, they won triumphs which we of this
+mercenary epoch cannot understand. The Aigles were in for glory, nothing
+else. So when we heard the roar of a rapid and sniffed the mist in the
+air, "Tirtaan Aigles dis wai," was our slogan.
+
+Where the river now ran smoothly, as it did for a considerable distance
+below the Robideau crossing we could drift with the slow current and
+enjoy the study of the surroundings, the boats requiring no attention.
+Passing the mouths of the Uinta and the White, both rivers entering very
+quietly through a level valley, we pulled gently along watching the
+banks for something new. When we had thus gone a couple of miles we
+discovered our first acquaintance of this valley, Douglas Boy, encamped
+on the right with his runaway bride. They had a snug and secluded
+hiding-place protected by the river and some low cliffs. We landed to
+pay our parting call. Both had their faces completely smeared with the
+bright vermilion obtained by trade from us, and they presented in our
+eyes a ludicrous appearance. They had recently killed a fat deer and
+seemed very happy. Prof. exchanged some sugar for enough venison for our
+dinner and we said farewell to them, the first as well as the last human
+beings we had met with in this valley. Clem, as usual, gave them various
+messages for the "folks at home" and assured them with gracious smiles,
+that they "would ever be the subject of his most distinguished
+consideration." They smiled after us and we were soon beyond their
+vision. Presently low cliffs, 100 to 150 feet began to show themselves,
+on one side or the other, and the wide valley vanished. The great canyon
+below was reaching out for us. There were numerous islands covered with
+immense accumulations of driftwood or with growing cottonwoods where
+high enough. Hundreds of beaver swam about. Occasionally a shot from the
+boats would kill or wound one, but it was next to impossible to secure
+any as they seemed to sink immediately to the bottom and we gave up
+trying as long as they were in deep water. The stream being so tranquil
+reading poetry was more to our taste than hunting the beaver, and Prof.
+read aloud from Emerson as we slowly advanced upon the enemy.
+
+After about nine miles of this sort of thing we stopped for dinner in a
+pretty cottonwood grove at the foot of a cliff on the right with beaver
+swimming around as if they did not know what a human being was. When our
+venison had been disposed of the boats were shoved out into the river
+again and we continued our approach to the canyon. The surrounding
+region became a desolate waste; a broken desert plateau elevated above
+us about two hundred feet. Some deer seen on an island caused us to land
+and try to get a good shot at one, but we failed to get near enough for
+success and they quickly disappeared. The ground was too difficult for
+pursuit. After some seventeen miles, camp for the night was made in
+another grove of rather small cottonwoods at 5.30. We were on a large
+island with the surrounding waters thick with beaver busy every moment
+though their great work is done at night. Many trees felled, some of
+them of a considerable diameter, attested the skill and energy of these
+animals as woodchoppers. Cap. tried to get one so that we could eat it,
+but though he killed several he failed to reach them before they sank,
+and gave it up.
+
+As we looked around we saw that almost imperceptibly we had entered the
+new canyon and at this camp (33) we were fairly within the embrace of
+its rugged cliffs which, devoid of all vegetation, rose up four hundred
+feet, sombre in colour, but picturesque from a tendency to columnar
+weathering that imparted to them a Gothic character suggestive of
+cathedrals, castles, and turrets. The next day was Sunday and as Beaman
+felt sick and we were not in a hurry, no advance was made but instead
+Prof. accompanied by Steward, Cap., and Jones climbed out for notes and
+observations. They easily reached the top by means of a small gulch.
+They got back early, reporting an increasing desolation in the country
+on both sides as far as they could see. They also saw two graves of
+great age, covered by stones. In the afternoon Prof. entertained us by
+reading aloud from Scott and so the day passed and night fell. Then the
+beavers became more active and worked and splashed around camp
+incessantly. They kept it up all through the dark hours as is their
+habit, but only Steward was disturbed by it. This would have been an
+excellent opportunity to learn something about their ways, but for my
+part I did not then even think of it.
+
+By 7.30 in the morning of August 7th we were again on our way towards
+the depths ahead, between walls of rapidly increasing altitude showing
+that we were cutting into some great rock structure. Here and there we
+came to shoals that compelled us to get overboard and wade alongside
+lifting the boats at times. As these shoals had the peculiarity of
+beginning gradually and ending very abruptly we got some unexpected
+plunge baths during this kind of progression. But the air was hot, the
+thermometer being about 90° F., and being soaked through was not
+uncomfortable. At one place Prof. succeeded in shooting a beaver which
+was near the bank and it was secured before it could get to its hole,
+being badly wounded. Steward caught it around the middle from behind and
+threw it into the boat--he had jumped into the water--and there it was
+finished with an oar. It measured three feet from tip to tip. We had
+heard a good deal about beaver as food and would now have a chance to
+try it. About eleven o'clock, we stopped for examinations and for dinner
+on the right but, of course, could not yet cook the beaver. Prof.,
+Steward, and Cap. climbed to the top of a butte 1050 feet above the
+river upon which they found a small monument left there by the Major on
+the former trip. Though this butte was so high the average of the walls
+was only about five hundred feet. We made seventeen miles this day.
+
+That night our camp (No. 35) was again on an island. There Cap. skinned
+and dressed the beaver and turned over the edible portions to Andy who
+cooked some steak for breakfast the next morning. It tasted something
+like beef, but we were not enthusiastic for I fear this beaver belonged
+to the same geological epoch as the goose we had cooked at the upper end
+of the valley. Fortified by the beaver steak we pushed off and ran about
+a mile on a smooth river when a stop was made for pictures and
+geologising. This consumed the whole morning, a fact Andy took advantage
+of to make some beaver soup for dinner. This concoction was voted not a
+success and we turned to bacon and beans as preferable thereafter.
+Opposite this dinner place was a rough lateral canyon full of turrets
+and minarets which had the remarkable property of twice distinctly
+repeating a shout as loud as the original, and multiplying a rifle shot
+to peals of thunder. There had been people here before any white men,
+for Steward found an artificial wall across an indentation of the cliff,
+the first work of the ancient builders we had encountered. It was
+mysterious at the time, the South-western ruins having then not been
+discovered with one or two exceptions. We ascribed this wall, however,
+to the ancestors of the Moki (Hopi).
+
+In the afternoon as we pulled along we came to a small rapid and the
+walls by this time being closer together and growing constantly higher,
+we knew that we were now fairly within the Canyon of Desolation and for
+about one hundred miles would have a rough river. Not more than two
+miles below our dinner camp we reached a locality where the stream
+doubled back on itself forming a vast and beautiful amphitheatre. We
+could not pass this by without taking a picture of it and Beaman was
+soon at work with his apparatus while I got out my pencils. The
+photograph did not turn out well, and Prof. determined to remain till
+the next day. Our camp was on the left in a thick grove of cottonwoods,
+and box-elders or ash-leaved maples, at the end of the point. As the sun
+sank away bats flew about and an insect orchestra began a demoniacal
+concert that shrilled through the night and made us feel like
+slaughtering the myriads if we could. The noises ceased with the day, or
+most of them, though some seemed to intensify with the light. We helped
+Beaman get his dark box and other paraphernalia up to the summit of the
+ridge back of camp, which was easy so far as climbing was concerned, the
+rocks rising by a series of shelves or steps. I made several pencil
+sketches there, which I have never seen since the close of the
+expedition. The crest of the promontory was about forty yards wide at
+its maximum and three yards at the minimum, with a length of
+three-fourths of a mile. From the middle ridge one could look down into
+the river on both sides, and it seemed as if a stone could almost be
+thrown into each from one standpoint. The opposite amphitheatre was
+perhaps one thousand feet high, beautifully carved by the rains and
+winds. It was named Sumner's Amphitheatre after Jack Sumner of the first
+expedition. Several of our men climbed in different directions, but all
+did not succeed in getting out. The day turned out very cloudy with
+sprinkles of rain and Prof. decided to wait still longer to see if
+Beaman could get a good photograph, and we had another night of insect
+opera. The next day by noon the photographer had caught the scene and we
+continued our descending way. The river was perfectly smooth, except a
+small rapid late in the day, with walls on both sides steadily
+increasing their altitude. Desolation in its beginning is exactly the
+reverse of Lodore and Split Mountain. In the latter the entrance could
+hardly be more sudden, whereas the Canyon of Desolation pushes its rock
+walls around one so diplomatically that it is some little time before
+the traveller realises that he is caught. The walls were ragged, barren,
+and dreary, yet majestic. We missed the numerous trees which in the
+upper canyons had been so ornamental wherever they could find a footing
+on the rocks. Here there were only low shrubs as a rule and these mainly
+along the immediate edge of the water, though high up on north slopes
+pines began to appear. Altitude, latitude, and aridity combine to modify
+vegetation so that in an arid region one notices extraordinary changes
+often in a single locality. The walls still had the tendency to break
+into turrets and towers, and opposite our next camp a pinnacle stood
+detached from the wall on a shelf high above the water suggesting a
+beacon and it was named Lighthouse Rock. Prof. with Steward and Cap. in
+the morning, August 11th, climbed out to study the contiguous region
+which was found to be not a mountain range but a bleak and desolate
+plateau through which we were cutting along Green River toward a still
+higher portion. This was afterwards named the Tavaputs Plateau, East and
+West divisions, the river being the line of separation.
+
+The walls now began to take on a vertical character rising above the
+water 1200 to 1800 feet, and at that height they were about a quarter of
+a mile apart. From their edges they broke back irregularly to a
+separation as nearly as could be determined of from three to five miles,
+the extreme summit being 2500 feet above the river.
+
+[Illustration: Steward.
+
+Canyon of Desolation.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+While waiting for Prof. to come down from the cliffs, Beaman made some
+photographs and then two boats dropped down a quarter of a mile where he
+made some more and Andy got dinner. I remained with the _Nell_ and about
+eleven o'clock the climbers came. We went down on the boat to the noon
+camp, and as soon as we had refreshed the inner man we proceeded
+thinking it about time for rapids to appear. We had not gone far before
+we distinguished a familiar roar just preceding the turn of a bend which
+disclosed three lying within half a mile. They were not bad but the
+river was wide and shallow, making the descent more difficult than it
+would ordinarily have been. The river was now approaching its lowest
+stage, and we saw an uncomfortable looking lot of rocks. High water
+makes easy going but increases the risk of disaster; low water makes
+hard work, batters the boats, and delays progress, but as a rule it is
+less risky. All the boats cleared the first rapid without any
+difficulty, but in the second the _Nell_ struck a sunken rock, though
+lightly, while our boat landed squarely on the top of a large boulder
+partially submerged, where we hung fast with the water boiling furiously
+around and almost coming over the sides. I tried to get out over the
+port bow but the current drew me under the boat and I had to get back.
+Jack concluded we were only fast by the extreme end of the keel and
+Jones coming forward Jack slid cautiously out over the stern and felt
+around with his feet till he touched the rock and put his weight on it.
+Thus relieved, the boat lifted slightly and shot away like an arrow but
+not before Jack leaped on again. As soon as we could we made land and
+watched the _Cañonita_ which fared still worse. She struck so hard that
+two of the after ribs and some planks were stove in. They then
+extricated her and pulling her up on the rocky shore we went to work to
+repair with cleats made from a broken oar. This delayed us an hour and a
+half. Then saws and hammers were stowed away and the third rapid was run
+without a mishap. It was only the low stage of water that caused the
+trouble. A little farther on a fourth rapid was vanquished and we went
+into camp on the left bank in a cottonwood grove at the head of another.
+"If the rocks, they don't sthop us," sang Jack, "We will cross to
+Killiloo, whacky-whay!" And there were plenty of rocks in the midst of
+foaming waters, but one great advantage of low water is the decreased
+velocity, and velocity on a river like this with so heavy and constant a
+fall is one of the chief factors to reckon with in navigation.
+
+The high cliffs, two thousand feet, red and towering in the bright sun,
+became sombre and mysterious as the night shadows crept over them, the
+summits remaining bright from the last western rays when the river level
+was dim and uncertain. There was plenty of driftwood, and our fires were
+always cheery and comfortable. The nights were now quite cold, or at
+least chilly, while the days were hot as soon as the sun came over the
+edge of the cliffs. Through some of the narrow promontories at this
+particular camp there were peculiar perforations suggesting immense
+windows looking into some fairer land. I would have been glad to examine
+some of these closely, but as it was not necessary they were passed by.
+It would also have been difficult to reach them as they were very high
+up.
+
+The rapid at our camp was a starter the next day on a line of them
+following one after the other till we had run without accident nine
+before halting for dinner; and nine in 6-3/4 miles was not a bad record.
+We landed for noon on the same spot where the first party had stopped
+and our last night's camp was also coincident with theirs, according to
+their map which we had for consultation. Prof. decided to remain here
+for the rest of the day and also the next one which was Sunday. Up in a
+high gulch some pine trees were visible, and Jack and I climbed up to
+them and collected several pounds of gum for repairing the boats. Sunday
+morning Prof., Jones, and Steward struck for the summit up the cliffs to
+get observations. An hour and a half of steady hard work put them 2576
+feet above the river, but they were still three hundred feet below the
+general level of the great plateau which we were bisecting. Prof.
+thought he would like to make better time down the river, which we could
+easily have done up to this point, but if we arrived at the end of the
+canyon too soon we would have to wait there and it was better to
+distribute the wait as we went along. It was now August 14th and we were
+not due below till September 3d.
+
+On Monday morning we pushed and pulled and lifted the boats through a
+shallow rapid half a mile long. It was hard work. Then came one which we
+ran, but the following drop was deemed too risky to trust our boats in,
+and they were lowered by lines. Then in a short distance this same
+process was repeated with hard work in a very bad place, and when we had
+finished that we were tired, hungry, wet, and cold, so under a
+cottonwood tree on the right we stopped for needed refreshment, and
+while it was preparing most of us hung our clothes on the branches of a
+fallen tree to dry. The rapid foaming and fuming presented so vigorous
+an appearance and made so much noise we thought it ought to be named,
+and it was called Fretwater Falls. At three o'clock we took up our oars
+again and were whirled along at runaway speed through a continuous
+descent for half a mile. After another half-mile a small rapid appeared,
+which we dashed through without a second thought, and then came our
+final effort of the day, a line-portage over a particularly bad spot. It
+was a difficult job, requiring great exertion in lifting and pushing and
+fending off, so when Prof. gave the word to camp on the left, we were
+all glad enough to do so. We had made only 5-1/4 miles and seven rapids.
+The let-downs had been hard ones, with a couple of men on board to fend
+off and two or three on the hawser holding back.
+
+The next morning, August 15th, we made another let-down around a bad
+piece of river, and ran two or three small rapids before dinner. At the
+let-down the water dropped at least ten feet in two hundred yards, and
+Prof. estimated thirty in half a mile. The river was also narrow, not
+more than sixty or seventy feet in one place. Many rocks studded the
+rapids, and great caution had to be exercised both in let-downs and in
+runs, lest the boats should be seriously injured. With two or three more
+feet of water we could have run some that were now impossible.
+Fortunately there was always plenty of room on both banks, the cliffs
+being well back from the water. A series of small rapids gave us no
+special trouble, and having put them behind, we ran in at the head of a
+rough-looking one, had dinner, and then made a let-down. Starting on, we
+soon came to a very sharp rapid, which we ran, and found it was only an
+introduction to one following that demanded careful treatment. Another
+let-down was the necessary course, and when it was accomplished we
+stopped for the night where we were on the sand, every man tired, wet,
+and hungry. We had made only four miles. A significant note of warning
+was found here in the shape of fragments of the unfortunate _No-Name_
+mixed up with the driftwood, fully two hundred miles below the falls
+where the wreck occurred.
+
+The precipices surrounding us had now reached truly magnificent
+proportions, one section near our camp springing almost vertically to a
+height of 2800 or 3000 feet. On the dizzy summit we could discern what
+had the appearance of an old-fashioned log-cabin, and from this we
+called it "Log-cabin Cliff." The cabin was in reality a butte of shale,
+as we could see by means of our glasses, and of course of far greater
+size than a real cabin, but from below the illusion was complete. At
+this camp, No. 40, we remained the next day, Prof. wishing to make some
+investigations. He and Jones crossed to the other side and went down on
+foot two or three miles; then returning he went up some distance, while
+the rest of us mended our clothes, worked up notes, and did a score of
+little duties that had been neglected in the river work. Jack and I
+climbed up the cliffs and got more pine gum, with which we caulked up
+the seams in our boat. Cap. kindly turned barber and redeemed me from
+the danger of being classed as orang-outang. The air was too hazy for
+photographing or for getting observations from the summit, and Prof.
+concluded to stay till next day at this place and then go to the top of
+the world; in other words, to the summit. Very early in the morning,
+August 17th, Steward and Cap. started with Prof. for the climb. Keeping
+up the main canyon for a mile they came to a side gorge where Prof. had
+been the day before, which they followed for half a mile and then boldly
+mounted the cliffs, reaching an altitude of 3100 feet above the river.
+While they were gone, Jack and I climbed after more pine gum, and
+succeeded in getting five or six pounds for future use. As I was
+descending along a terrace, Jack being some distance behind and above, a
+fine, large mountain sheep, sleek and clean, with beautiful strong
+horns, sprang along four or five hundred feet from me, and stopped in
+full view listening to Jack's footsteps. I had no gun, and could only
+admire him till he bounded lightly away.
+
+About one o'clock the climbing party came back. Steward had shot a
+mountain sheep with a revolver, only to find that a deep canyon
+intervened between him and his prize and there was no way of getting it.
+
+About half past two we shoved out into the river again, running a small
+rapid immediately. The water was so shallow that our keel struck a
+number of times but no damage was done. We had hardly cleared this when
+we arrived at a drop of about six feet in a few yards with the whole
+river filled with bad rocks. At this place, according to the map made by
+the first party, their _Emma Dean_ was capsised. We made a let-down and
+a quarter of a mile farther on repeated the operation should be.
+Following this were some swift shoals which brought us to another ugly
+descent where the _Nell_ stove a hole in her side and came near
+upsetting. Prof. was knocked half out of the boat but got in again. The
+other boats we lowered by lines and they passed through uninjured. Near
+this point a fine clear little stream about a rod wide entered from the
+west. After running two more rapids Prof. decided to camp which we did
+on the right, Camp 41. Our run footed up 3-3/4 miles. Our camp was in
+some cottonwoods and we had to cross a wide rocky bar to get to it but
+it was preferable to camping on the sand. In this canyon there was
+generally a valley about one-quarter mile wide on one side or the other,
+and with the abundant supply of driftwood for fires and a whole river
+for drink we fared well. The great canyon now appeared deeper than at
+any point above, about three thousand feet we estimated, the walls being
+extremely precipitous. One cliff not far from camp appeared to be
+nearly perpendicular.
+
+Steward got up very early the next morning in order to mend his shoes,
+and he succeeded so well as cobbler, we declared he had missed his
+calling, but we did not start till ten o'clock, waiting for Beaman to
+take views. The first thing we then did was to run a very shallow rapid,
+followed by another, long, difficult, narrow, and rocky. Then there was
+a short, easy one, with the next below compelling a very hard let-down.
+There was nothing but rocks, large rocks, so close together that it was
+all we could do to manoeuvre the boats between them. There was no
+channel anywhere. For the greater part of the way we had to pull them
+empty over the rocks on driftwood skids which taxed our muscles
+considerably and of course saturated our clothing for half the time we
+were in the water, as was always the case at let-downs. This over we had
+our noon ration of bread, bacon, and coffee and took a fresh start by
+running a nice, clear rapid and then another a half-mile below, and we
+thought we were getting on well when we saw ahead a fall of some ten
+feet in fourteen rods, turbulent and fierce. The only prudent thing for
+this rapid was a let-down and we went at it at once. It was the usual
+pulling, hauling, fending, and pushing, but we got through with it after
+a while and naming it at the suggestion of some one, Melvin Falls, we
+went on to the eighth and last rapid for the day. This was half a mile
+long and very rocky, but it was thought we could run it and all went
+through safely except the _Nell_ which caught her keel on a rock and
+hung for a moment, then cleared and finished with no damage. We made
+Camp 42 on a sand-hill. These hills were a feature of the wide banks,
+being blown up by the winds, sometimes to a height of fifteen or twenty
+feet. Our run for the day was less than five miles, yet as we had passed
+eight rapids one way and another, we were all pretty tired and of course
+wet and hungry. A good big camp-fire was quickly started, our dry
+garments from the rubber bags donned in place of the flapping wet ones,
+and we were entirely comfortable, with the bread baking in the Dutch
+oven, the coffee or tea steaming away, and the inspiring fragrance of
+frying bacon wafted on the evening air. When we stopped long enough Andy
+would give us boiled beans or stewed dried apples as a treat. If we
+desired to enliven the conversation all that was necessary was to start
+the subject of the "light" back at the camp where we first met Douglas
+Boy. Every one would soon be involved except Prof. who only laughed and
+inserted from time to time a well-chosen remark to keep up the interest.
+Jack would always give us a half-dozen songs and to this Steward would
+add a solo on the mouth-organ. The evenings were growing longer, and we
+sat closer to the fire. Sometimes Cap. and Clem would play a game of
+euchre, but no one else seemed to care anything about cards. Our beds,
+when possible, were made by first putting down willows or cedar twigs in
+regular order, on which the blankets would be spread making a luxurious
+bed on which sleep instantly overtook us, with the sound of falling
+water generally the last thing and the first in our ears.
+
+At 7.30 the next morning, August 19th, we were speeding on our way and
+ran the rapid which had sent its lullaby to our camp. Another came right
+after it, shallow and bad, and then one more where the channel was beset
+with innumerable boulders hidden under the surface. Happily the boats
+were not seriously damaged, they needed no repairs, and we kept on to
+the next barrier which proved to be not runable with any prospect of
+getting through whole so we made a portage. Then there was a rapid we
+ran easily, but as if to revenge itself for making one gentle for us,
+the river obliged us to work a laborious passage at the next two. We had
+good hard work, lowering by lines, wading alongside where necessary to
+ease the boats, or clinging to their sides where the water was deep,
+while the men on shore at the hawser's end lowered away to a shallow
+place. We were glad to halt at 11.30 for dinner, and a short rest.
+
+There was a heavy rapid beside us as we ate, and Steward named it
+Chandler Falls. It had a descent of about twelve feet in twenty rods. On
+the opposite side of the river a clear little creek came in, and this
+was named Chandler Creek, Chandler being the maiden name of Steward's
+wife. Beaman and Clem selected a position with their photographic outfit
+and made some photographs of us as we were working the boats through. A
+mile below we halted on the right for Beaman to get more views. None of
+his photographs of the rapids came out well as the plates were too slow.
+Up a gulch on the right we could see a remarkable topographic feature,
+nothing less than a gigantic aperture, or natural arch, in the cliff. It
+had a span of at least 300 feet with a height of about half as much. It
+was 1500 or 1800 feet above the river. Hundreds of cedar trees grew
+around the arch on the ledges of the huge wall through which it was cut
+by the action of the elements.
+
+The cliffs everywhere were now becoming more broken, and there was an
+entrance somewhere from the back country, or it may have been up the
+canyon, for we discovered remains of tipis and camps with metates or
+grinding stones, the first evidences of human beings we had seen since
+the "Moki" wall. This and the breaking of the cliffs caused us to
+believe that we were nearing the end of the canyon. Prof. with Jones and
+Steward went down-stream on foot for a distance to see what was coming
+next and found a stretch of very bad water. On the return a rattlesnake
+struck at Steward but luckily failed to hit him. Steward killed it. We
+concluded to stop for the night where we were with the day's
+record--four rapids run, three let-downs, and 4-5/8 miles in distance.
+This camp was not satisfactory and we got out of it early the next
+morning. While Beaman was making some views across the river we lowered
+the other two boats through one rapid and then ran them through a second
+in three-quarters of a mile to a better camping place, from which we
+went back and helped the third boat, the _Cañonita_, do the same. Prof.
+wanted to climb out, but the morning being half gone he planned to start
+after dinner and meanwhile he read Emerson aloud to us till Andy shouted
+his "Go fur it boys!" Accompanied by Steward and Clem, in the afternoon
+he climbed up 1200 or 1500 feet to a point where he could see down the
+river two or three miles. They counted seven rapids, and confirmed the
+belief that the walls were breaking. The surrounding country was made up
+of huge ridges that ran in toward the river from five miles back.
+
+Our Camp 44 was in a little valley about a quarter of a mile wide, the
+bottom covered with cedars and greasewood. The scenery was still on a
+magnificent scale but barren and desolate. The next morning, August
+21st, we were under way at 7.30 and plunged almost immediately into the
+rapids which had been sighted from the cliffs above. In a little over
+four miles we let down six times. A seventh rapid we ran and then
+stopped for noon on the left, every man, as usual, soaking wet. A little
+rain fell but not enough to consider. After dinner four more rapids were
+put behind; we ran all but one at which we made a let-down. Our record
+for this day was eleven rapids in a trifle less than seven miles, and we
+were camped at the head of another rapid which was to form our
+eye-opener in the morning. The walls receded from the river
+three-fourths of a mile and now, though still very high, had more the
+appearance of isolated cliffs.
+
+We had not a single unpleasant incident till Beaman on this day ran one
+rapid contrary to Prof.'s orders. He was sharply reprimanded, and for
+the time being his tendency to insubordination and recklessness was
+checked. He probably did not mean to be either, but his confidence in
+his ability to steer through anything led him astray. In the evening by
+the camp-fire light Prof. read aloud from _Miles Standish_. Although a
+heavy wind blew sand all over us, no one seemed to complain.
+
+The next morning, August 22d, the first thing we did was to run the
+rapid beside our camp, a beautiful chute, swift, long, and free from
+rocks. Immediately below this was one half a mile long in the form of a
+crescent, the river making a sharp bend with a bad current, but we ran
+it. This was, in fact, a part of the other rapid, or it might be so
+classed, as was frequently the case where the descent was nearly
+continuous from one rapid to another. The river was very narrow at this
+place, not more than seventy-five feet wide. We had not gone far before
+we reached a rapid where it was prudent to lower the boats, and not more
+than a few hundred yards below this there was another of a similar
+character but necessitating harder work. Then we were brought face to
+face with one more that could not be run with safety on the present
+stage of water, though we ran a part of it and made a let-down past the
+remainder. When this was finally accomplished with everything in good
+order, we found ourselves in front of still another that refused to
+grant us clear passage, and we worked the boats down with lines as in
+the previous rapids without removing the cargoes. The method was the
+usual one for the let-downs, three or four men on the line and a couple
+on board the boat to manoeuvre and protect her. Having by this time
+advanced three and one-eighth miles from last night's camp we stopped
+for dinner. On taking up the oars again the first rapid was a fine,
+clear descent with extremely large waves, through which all three boats
+dashed with exhilarating speed, leaping part of their length out of the
+water as their velocity carried them zipping over the crests. Our boat
+happened to strike near the finish on a submerged rock to the right of
+the main channel and near shore and there she hung for some moments. The
+first boat had landed below and some of the men quickly came up to where
+I could throw them our line, and this pulled us off without any damage
+worth mentioning. A little below this we ran another successfully and
+had not gone far before we were astonished at the sight of a horse
+grazing unconcernedly on some low bluffs on the right. Prof. had
+discovered this horse with his field glass while we stopped above to
+examine one of the rapids. He thought it might indicate the presence of
+the Major, or of Indians, but he did not mention the matter to any of
+us. When we were at a good point, and just as all hands had discovered
+the animal, he ordered a sharp landing on the same side. We ran in
+quickly. Prof. went up the bank and gave several shouts while we held
+ourselves ready for action. There was no response. He then went to the
+horse and found it very lame which, coupled with the absence of any
+indication of visitors within recent months, caused us to conclude that
+the horse had been abandoned by Indians who had been encamped here a
+good while before. We left the place and running another rapid, a little
+one, we came to a fine spot for a camp on the right at the beginning of
+a heavy rapid, and there we stayed for the night.
+
+There was now a marked change in the geology, and fossiliferous beds,
+which for a long time had been absent, appeared. The canyon walls also
+broke away considerably. The next morning it was decided that we should
+remain at this camp till after dinner for observation work. I went out
+with Steward to help him gather fossils, and Beaman took some views,
+while the others occupied themselves with various duties. The afternoon
+began by letting the boats by line past the rapid at camp which Beaman
+called Sharp Mountain Falls, from a pointed peak overhead. There was a
+drop of about fifteen feet in thirty rods. Beaman wanted to photograph
+us in the midst of our work, and got ready for it, but a rain-storm came
+on and we had to wait till it cleared for him to get the picture. We
+then went ahead dashing through a pretty rapid with a swift current, and
+next had a long stretch of rapid, though not difficult river, making in
+all 2-3/4 miles, and camping at five o'clock on the left. The only
+trouble we had was that in choosing one of four channels our boat got
+where she was inevitably drawn into the top of a sunken dead tree lodged
+in the rocks and my starboard row lock was broken off. On shore Steward
+killed another rattlesnake, of which there seemed to be a good many
+along the river.
+
+We were now actually out of the Canyon of Desolation and in the
+beginning of what the Major at first called Coal Canyon, then Lignite,
+and finally Gray, the name it bears to-day, because of the colour of the
+walls. The division between the two canyons was the break down where we
+had seen the horse. Casting up we found that the Canyon of Desolation is
+ninety-seven miles long. Early the next morning, August 24th, we pulled
+away from Camp 47 soon running two small rapids of no consequence, and
+in three miles came to a descent of some ten feet in a very short space,
+where we made a let-down. Three fair rapids were next run easily when we
+halted to examine a hard-looking place where we let down again. An
+encounter with three more, two of them each a quarter of a mile long,
+took us till noon, though we ran them and we came to a stop for dinner.
+Now the walls had narrowed, the canyon being about half a mile wide at
+the top--sometimes not more than a quarter. The colour was buff, and
+there were seams of coal and lignite in places. On one or the other side
+the cliffs were nearly vertical for about three hundred feet then
+breaking back to jagged heights reaching about two thousand feet. After
+dinner having run two more rapids without trouble we arrived at a very
+difficult locality where the first cliffs, six hundred feet high, came
+down vertically on both sides quite close to the water. We saw how we
+could navigate it, but at flood time it would be a most serious
+proposition, as there would be no footing on either side, unless,
+perhaps on the huge masses of fallen rock. At the present stage we were
+able to let the boats down by lines. Then we had two easy rapids,
+followed by another not more difficult but less safe. A little farther
+on we ran two more which completed the record for the day, and we were
+glad to camp with a total run of 12-3/8 miles, and many rapids with
+three let-downs. A feature of the cliffs this day was numerous alcoves
+and grottoes worn into the sandstone some of them like great caverns
+with extremely narrow canyons leading into them.
+
+In the morning Prof. with Jones, Cap., and Steward climbed out. The
+country was elevated above the river about two thousand feet, a wild
+labyrinth of ragged gulches, gullies, and sharp peaks devoid of
+vegetation except a few piñons on some slopes, the whole presenting a
+picture of complete desolation. At a quarter past twelve we were again
+gliding down on a stiff current. We ran seven easy rapids and let-down
+by lines twice, before arriving about three o'clock at the mouth of a
+stream-bed sixty feet wide, which Prof. said was Little White, or Price
+River. The mouth was so devoid of water that we camped on the smooth
+sand, it being the only ground free from brush. A sudden rise or
+cloud-burst would have made it an active place for us but we decided to
+take the risk for one night. Prof. and Jones tried to get out by
+following up this river bed but they were not successful. Game was
+abundant and they thought there might be an Indian trail but they saw
+none. In the evening Steward gave us a mouth-organ recital and Jack sang
+a lot of his songs in fine style. The air was soft and tranquil, and
+knowing we had now conquered the Canyon of Desolation without a serious
+mishap we all felt well satisfied.
+
+In the morning, August 25th, breakfast was disposed of early, the boats
+were put in trim and away we went again on a good current running many
+rapids and making one let-down in a distance of eight miles. I counted
+fourteen rapids, Steward ten or eleven, Prof. only eight, showing that
+it is not always easy to separate the rapids where they come so close
+together. In one the river was no more than thirty feet wide with big
+waves that made the boats jump and ship water. We reached a bend and
+saw the end of the canyon only a mile or two away, but we had to make
+the let-down mentioned before we got there. Our camp, Number 50, was
+made about noon, just inside the mouth of the canyon on the left,
+opposite a high, beautiful pinnacle we called Cathedral Butte afterwards
+changing the name to Gunnison. Here we would wait till the time
+appointed for the Major to join us according to the plan. Gray Canyon
+was now also behind us with its thirty-six miles and numerous rapids.
+Adding to it the ninety-seven miles of Desolation made the total canyon
+from Wonsits Valley 133 miles with a descent of about 550 feet
+distributed through a hundred rapids, some small, some heavy. The entire
+fall from our starting point was now some two thousand feet. Prof. and
+Jones went down the valley two miles with the hope of seeing signs of
+the Major but not a human being was to be found anywhere.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 12: Many, many years after the canyon voyage as Major Powell
+with his sister, Mrs. Thompson, and Professor Thompson were approaching
+Fort Wingate in New Mexico, the sun was setting, and sky and rocks
+combined to produce a glorious picture. Suddenly he asked his companions
+to halt and sitting on their horses looking into the wonderful sky he
+sang with them the above two stanzas.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+     Return of the Major--Some Mormon Friends--No Rations at the
+     Elusive Dirty Devil--Captain Gunnison's Crossing--An All-night
+     Vigil for Cap. and Clem--The Land of a Thousand Cascades--A
+     Bend Like a Bow-knot and a Canyon Labyrinthian--Cleaving an
+     Unknown World--Signs of the Oldest Inhabitant--Through the
+     Canyon of Stillwater to the Jaws of the Colorado.
+
+
+There was little energy in our camp the day after our arrival at the end
+of the long struggle with Desolation and Gray canyons, and, also, it
+being Sunday, we lounged around in a state of relaxation, joyful that we
+did not have to roll up our blankets and stow them and everything else
+in the rubber bags and pack the cabins to go on. The boats had been
+unloaded and hauled on the beach, which was smooth sand, to dry out
+preparatory to our caulking and repairing them with the pine gum
+collected in Desolation. During the morning Prof. sent Jack and me down
+the river a short distance to put up a signal, a small American flag, on
+the lower end of an island, where it could easily be seen by any one
+looking for us. All hands kept an ear open for signal shots, which we
+hoped to hear soon, and have the Major once more in our company. After
+dinner Prof. and Steward took another walk down the open valley about
+five miles to reconnoitre, but though they came upon remains of a great
+many Indian camps, all were old, and the valley appeared as silent and
+deserted as it was desolate and barren. Along the river there were a few
+groves of cottonwood, the only vegetation of any consequence to be seen.
+
+[Illustration: A. Map by the U. S. War Department--1868.
+
+Supplied by the courtesy of General Mackenzie, U. S. A., showing the
+knowledge of the Colorado River basin just before Major Powell began
+operations. The topography above the junction of the Green and Grand is
+largely pictorial and approximate. The white space from the San Rafael
+to the mouth of the Virgin is the unknown country referred to in this
+volume, which was investigated in 1871-72-73. Preliminary Maps B, C, and
+D, at pages 244, 246, and 207, respectively, partly give the results of
+the work which filled in this area.]
+
+Through this valley passed the famous trail from Santa Fé to Los
+Angeles, laid out in 1830 by that splendid pioneer, William Wolfskill.
+The reason he came so far north was because there was no place to cross
+the canyons below that was known.[13] This path was occasionally
+travelled for years, and became celebrated as the "Old Spanish Trail."
+Here it was that Captain Gunnison of our army in his notable
+explorations crossed in 1853 on his westward journey, which a few days
+later proved fatal to him, as he was killed by the Gosi-Utes. Before
+leaving he established the latitude and longitude of this crossing,
+which ever after bore his name.[14] Together with the mouth of the
+Uinta, the mouth of Henry's Fork, and the mouth of Diamond Creek, this
+made four points astronomically fixed before the Major came between the
+Union Pacific crossing and the end of the Grand Canyon. Diamond Creek
+mouth was determined accurately by Ives in 1858. The trappers and fur
+hunters between 1824 and 1840, men like Jim Bridger and Kit Carson, had
+roamed more or less over the region we had come through, and
+occasionally they had tried to see the river in the canyons. The aridity
+of the country generally held them back. Ashley, as already noted, had
+made the passage of Red Canyon, and the trapper Meek with several
+companions had gone through Lodore and Whirlpool one winter on the ice.
+Frémont, Simpson, Berthoud, Selden, and some other scientific explorers
+had passed here and there reconnoitring, and Macomb in 1859 had made a
+reconnaissance to the south and south-west of Gunnison Crossing, so that
+a general idea of the character of the region had been obtained and a
+kind of approximate topography had been tentatively thrown in, yet it
+was mainly an unknown wilderness so far as record went, particularly
+contiguous to the river. But south from the San Rafael to the Paria and
+west to the High Plateaus forming the southward continuation of the
+Wasatch Range, an area of at least 10,000 square miles, there was still
+a completely unknown country. Indeed, even from the Paria on down to the
+Grand Wash the region on the right was hardly better understood, though
+there were several Mormon settlements on the headwaters of the Virgin,
+and recently the settlement of Kanab had been made farther east. On the
+south of the Grand Canyon Ives had reconnoitred to some extent, reaching
+the river at the mouth of Diamond Creek, but at no other point above
+that did he come to the river nor get anywhere near its canyon above the
+tributary Habasu (Cataract).
+
+In the entire stretch from Gunnison Crossing to the end of the Grand
+Canyon, a distance of 587-1/2 miles, but two points were known where
+the river could be crossed, the Crossing of the Fathers (El Vado de los
+Padres), about latitude 37, and the mouth of the Paria, only thirty-five
+miles lower down. This latter place had been discovered by Jacob
+Hamblin, or "Old Jacob," as he was familiarly called, and he was the
+first white man to cross there, which he did in October, 1869. He was a
+well-known Mormon scout and pioneer of those days. He forded at El Vado
+his first time in 1858, possibly the first white man after Escalante,
+though the ford was known to at least Richard Campbell, the trapper, in
+1840 or earlier. In 1862 Jacob circumtoured the Grand and Marble
+canyons, going from St. George by way of the Grand Wash to the Moki
+Towns and returning by way of El Vado. Thus the region below us to the
+left or east had been reconnoitred in a general way by Macomb, while
+that to the right or west had not had even bird's-eye exploration. Until
+the Major's unrivalled first descent in 1869 the river was equally
+unknown. Even above Gunnison Crossing, despite the spasmodic efforts at
+exploration referred to, the river had remained a geographical enigma,
+and to the Major belongs the sole credit for solving this great problem
+throughout its length from the Union Pacific crossing in Wyoming to the
+mouth of the Virgin River--the last problem of this kind within the
+United States. Hampered as the first party was by loss of provisions and
+instruments, they nevertheless made a plat of the immediate course of
+the stream, portions of which were lost with the men who were killed by
+the Shewits on leaving the party near the end of the Grand Canyon. So
+far we had not been bothered in the least by lack of provisions,
+instruments, time, health, or strength, and we had been able to make an
+accurate meander of the river, note the topography and geology as we
+went along, climb out frequently to examine the surrounding country, and
+in every way carry forward the scientific work as planned. It was now a
+question whether or not we would get our supplies at the next appointed
+station, the mouth of the Dirty Devil River, or whether we would be
+obliged to weigh out what we had, and by limiting ourselves to strict
+rations put the work through anyhow. By September 5th we would probably
+have information on this point, that being the limit set for our
+waiting. Should the Major not arrive by that time, it would mean that
+we were to go on as best we could with the supplies on hand.
+
+Monday was devoted to overhauling the boats, while Prof. took
+observations. During a rest he also read aloud to us from Tennyson,
+
+    "A land of streams! some, like a downward smoke,
+    Slow dropping veils of thinnest lawn, did go;
+    And some thro' wavering lights and shadows broke,
+    Rolling a slumbrous sheet of foam below.
+    They saw the gleaming river seaward flow
+    From the inner land; far off three mountain-tops,
+    Three silent pinnacles of aged snow,
+    Stood sunset-flushed; and, dew'd with showery drops,
+    Up-clomb the shadowy pine above the copse."
+
+He was an excellent reader and we enjoyed his various selections. They
+gave variety and new drift to our thought which was refreshing and
+beneficial. When the boats were completed they were returned to the
+river, but for the time being the rations and other things forming their
+cargoes were permitted to remain on shore covered by the paulins. The
+boats swung gracefully at their lines and Jack was tempted to get out
+his fishing tackle in the early evening and seat himself on one of the
+cabins to wait patiently for a bite. Softly the river rippled by with an
+innocent murmur as if it had never been guilty of anything but the
+calmest and best-behaved motion such as now reflected the great pinnacle
+across the way standing 1200 feet clear cut against the glowing sky. The
+air was balmy, no wind blew, and a universal quiet prevailed when
+suddenly Jack uttered several exclamations not entirely in harmony with
+the moment. He thought his precious hook was caught on a snag. Pulling
+gently in order not to break his line the snag lifted with it and
+presently he was astounded to see, not the branch of a tree or a
+water-logged stick, but the head of an enormous fish appear above the
+surface. Had there been some splashing he would have been prepared for
+the extraordinary sight but the monster came with barely a wriggle as if
+he did not know what it was to be caught. He was successfully landed in
+the middle cabin of the boat, which was empty except for some water, and
+lay there unhurt as if it were the natural place for him. Casting again
+another of the same kind came forth and then a third. The longest
+appeared to be the length of the cabin, as he floated in the water, and
+that was four feet. He was at least thirty or thirty-six inches with a
+circumference of fifteen inches. The others were considerably shorter
+but nevertheless very large fish. The big one was killed for food and
+Steward noted that the heart after removal kept up pulsations of twenty
+beats to the minute for half an hour. These fish are now called Colorado
+River salmon. The flesh was white and they seemed to us good eating.
+
+[Illustration: Colorado River White Salmon.
+
+Photograph by the Denver, Colorado Canyon, and Pacific Railway Survey
+under Robert Brewster Stanton, 1889.]
+
+On Tuesday, August 29th, the third day of our waiting, as we were about
+to return to various occupations after dinner three rapid shots broke
+suddenly on the quiet air from down the valley. It was our signal. "The
+Major" cried all in a breath, and a reply signal was instantly fired.
+Clem and I were sent immediately to the end of the island, carrying our
+rifles, of course, for while we had little doubt as to who it was, there
+might be a surprise. We hurried down while the others watched the bank
+beyond. As soon as we cleared the bushes and could see the western shore
+we distinguished the Major and a stranger by his side, with horses. We
+shouted to them directions for reaching our camp and they rode up till
+they came opposite to it whence they were ferried over while Jones took
+the horses down to their camp about four miles below. The Major reported
+an absolute failure in the attempt to find a way to the mouth of the
+Dirty Devil River and he had not himself been able to do anything about
+it. The first trial was eastward from Glencove, a Mormon settlement on
+the Sevier. It failed because the Indian guides refused to proceed
+beyond fifty miles and it was not practicable to go on without them. A
+second party was then sent in a little later under Old Jacob
+north-eastward from Kanab. They reached a river flowing to the Colorado
+at about the right place and for many miles followed it with extreme
+difficulty and hazard even at the low stage of water prevailing, down
+through a deep, narrow canyon. Sometimes they were compelled to swim
+their horses where the rapid stream filled the chasm from wall to wall,
+and continual crossing and re-crossing were necessary from one footing
+to another. This perilous effort was also abandoned. The Major had gone
+to Salt Lake and from there, being informed of these results, down to a
+village called Manti whence he made his way across country to our
+present position, with several pack animals bringing three hundred
+pounds of flour, a quantity of jerked beef, and twenty pounds of sugar.
+This was not exactly adequate to the circumstances but he probably
+thought it was all he could get through with to the meeting place
+appointed in the time alloted. While he and Fred Hamblin, the man
+accompanying him, were eating their dinner, we packed the boats, and
+when all was ready took them on board, the Major in his old place in the
+armchair on our boat, and Hamblin on the middle deck of another. In the
+run down to the camp Hamblin was very uncomfortable for he was not
+accustomed to boats, especially to boats that ran so fast. There were
+two little rapids, some swift chutes, and in several places the river
+shoaled and we grated slightly on the gravel.
+
+Stretching away westward from Gunnison Butte we saw an exquisitely
+modelled line of cliffs, some portions being a clear azure blue. At
+first it was proposed to name them Henry Cliffs, but they were finally
+called from their colour, Azure. Presently we arrived at the camp where
+we found another man, Lyman Hamblin, a son of Jacob and nephew of Fred.
+They were both Mormons from Kanab near the Arizona line in southern
+Utah. They had a large amount of mail for us and every one fell to
+reading letters and papers. August 30th and 31st were spent here getting
+our work in shape, making sketches and observations, as well as writing
+letters and helping the Hamblins prepare for their trip back through the
+wild country. They had met with no Indians on the way in and they hoped
+to be equally fortunate going back having no desire to see any. In this,
+as they told me afterwards, they were not successful. They mounted their
+horses, Friday, September 1st, about four in the afternoon when the west
+was taking on a rich evening glow and turning in that direction
+vanished, with a wave of the hand and a good-bye, into the mystery of
+colour, bearing our letters, the geographic data, the geologic notes,
+and all the other material which we had collected since leaving the
+mouth of the Uinta, and which it was thought advisable to send out both
+for safety and to relieve our crowded cabins. They said that the next
+evening before they realised it they found themselves so near a large
+encampment of Indians that there was no getting away, and they did the
+only thing they could sensibly do, rode boldly on straight into the
+midst of the strangers with the hope that the band belonged where they
+were on the west side of the river, in which case they were surely
+peaceful. Both men spoke Ute well and they had had long experience. The
+Indians proved to be entirely friendly, and the Hamblins camped with
+them for the night; not because they wanted to but because they thought
+it inexpedient to do otherwise. When they left us we felt that they were
+old friends for they were fine men and most agreeable. Besides, with the
+exception of Basor who had driven the team down from Salt Lake to the
+Uinta with our rations, they were the only white men which those of us
+who had not visited the Uinta Agency had seen since the Harrells in
+Brown's Park, nearly three months before. An hour after their departure
+we pushed off and ran down about half a mile, passing one little rapid,
+to the old crossing where we stopped on the left for the night. Beaman
+and I were commissioned to go back to our Camp Gunnison to get a saw
+which had been forgotten there; we could not afford to lose so valuable
+an implement. A well-beaten Indian trail leading up the river gave us
+easy going and we made good time. The effects of light and colour all
+around us playing over the mountains and valley gave the surroundings a
+weird interest. The day was ending. Long shadows stole across the
+strange topography while the lights on the variegated buttes became
+kaleidoscopic. As for us, we appeared ridiculously inadequate. We ought
+to have been at least twenty feet high to fit the hour and the scene.
+Gradually the lights faded, the shadows faded, then both began to merge
+till a soft grey-blue dropped over all blending into the sky everywhere
+except west where the burnish of sunset remained. Before dark the old
+camp was reached; we found the saw by the last dying rays and then
+picked our backward path by starlight following the trail as we had
+come. Silence and the night were one as in the countless years that had
+carved the dim buttes from the rocks of the world primeval when man was
+not. Beautiful is the wilderness at all times, at all times lovely, but
+under the spell of the twilight it seems to enfold one in a tender
+embrace, pushing back the sordid, the commonplace, and obliterating
+those magnified nothings that form the weary burden of civilised man.
+With keen appreciation we tramped steadily on till at last we perceived
+through the night gloom the cheerful flicker of our camp-fire, a sight
+always welcome, for the camp-fire to the explorer is home.
+
+At eight the next morning our business was resumed with the Major happy
+in his accustomed place. We made a nice run of eighteen miles on a
+smooth, shallow river, with broken, picturesque low cliffs and isolated
+buttes everywhere. The valley was wide and filled with these rocky
+hills. For a quarter of a mile on each side of the river there were
+cottonwood groves offering fine spots for camping, before and after
+crossing. There seemed to be several places where crossing was
+accomplished. At one of these we discovered where some Indians had been
+in camp a few hours before. The placidity of the river permitted the
+lashing together of the boats once more for a time and while we drifted
+this way down with the easy current the Major and Prof. took turns at
+reading aloud from Whittier. _Mogg Megone_ was one selection that was
+quite in harmony with the surroundings while other poems offered a
+delightful contrast. There were songs, too, and I specially identify
+with this particular locality that old college favourite, _Dear Evelina,
+Sweet Evelina_ which everybody sang, and which the Major often sang
+alone as he peered ahead into the vista unfolding.
+
+Before night the valley narrowed, the banks looked more like low canyon
+walls, and the current stiffened. A clump of small cottonwoods suggested
+a camp as the sun ran down and there we halted. Nor did we go on the
+next day as the Major desired to go out to a ridge lying to the west,
+which he had seen from his horse on his way to us across country. Jones
+went with him and they came back with a fine collection of Cretaceous
+fossils. Steward and Cap. also went collecting and were successful. Our
+surroundings were now even more peculiar than heretofore. In many places
+the region was absolutely barren of all vegetation; thousands of acres
+at a time had upon them hardly a living plant of any description, being
+simply bare and barren rock, as devoid of soil as the deck of a ship.
+Prof. took observations for latitude and longitude and the rest of us
+were busy at our usual affairs. We had very little time to spare when
+the various necessary duties had been regularly attended to.
+
+[Illustration: Dellenbaugh Butte.
+
+Near Mouth of San Rafael.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+As we went on the next morning the desolation of the surroundings
+increased, if that were possible, and it was easy to read in this one
+cause of the tardiness of its exploration. The acreage of bare rock grew
+wider and broader. The buttes now often turned to walls about 150 feet
+high, all much broken, but indicating the approach to another closing in
+of the rocks upon us. Many of these buttes were beautiful in their
+castellated form as well as because of a picturesque banded character,
+and opposite our dinner-camp, which was on a ledge of rock, was one
+surprisingly symmetrical, resembling an artificial structure. I thought
+it looked like an art gallery, and the Major said it ought to be named
+after the artist, so he called it "Dellenbaugh's Butte" then and there.
+Another singular feature of this day was a number of alkaline springs
+discovered bubbling up from the bottom of a sort of bayou or branch of
+the river. There were at least seventy-five of them, one throwing a
+column six or eight inches above the surface of the water here about two
+feet deep. We thought the place worth a name, and called it Undine
+Springs. Three or four miles below the butte named after me we arrived
+at the mouth of a river, twenty-five feet wide and eight or ten inches
+deep, coming in from the right. This was the San Rafael. Our camp was
+made near some cottonwoods between its left bank and the Green. As soon
+as we landed we perceived that the ground was strewn with flaked chips
+of chalcedony, jasper, and similar stones. It was plain that here was a
+favourite workshop of the native arrowhead maker, an artisan now
+vanished forever. Numerous well-finished beautiful arrow-heads of stone
+were found, all being placed in the general collection for the
+Smithsonian Institution. Our Camp 54 was elevated considerably above the
+river, and the surroundings being open, we had views in all directions.
+Towards the east we could see the Sierra La Sal, two clusters of rounded
+peaks, forty or fifty miles away, forming a majestic picture. The place
+was easy of access, and had been a favourite resort for natives, several
+acres of camp remains being found. In the morning Prof. began a series
+of observations to fix the position of the mouth of the San Rafael,
+while the Major and Jones, with rations, blankets, etc., on their backs
+for a two days' trip, started early up the tributary stream to see what
+kind of a country it flowed through. Steward feeling somewhat under the
+weather did not attempt to do anything, while the photographer and the
+others busied themselves in their respective lines. The following day
+the Major and Jones returned as planned, having traced the San Rafael
+for twenty-five miles. Before they arrived Cap. and Clem went across the
+Green to travel eastward to some high red buttes, one of which they
+intended to climb for topographical purposes. These buttes loomed up in
+a striking way, and appeared to be no more than six miles off even to
+Cap.'s experienced eye. The Major described the drainage basin of the
+San Rafael as wofully barren and desolate, like the rest of our
+surroundings. They had seen mountains lying beyond the Dirty Devil
+River, which were the range we then called the Unknown Mountains, there
+being no record of any one ever having seen them before the Major on his
+first trip.
+
+Steward, recovering his poise, walked back alone on the east bank of the
+Green four miles to Dellenbaugh's Butte to examine it and the
+intervening geology. He found the butte to be about four hundred feet
+high and composed of stratified gypsum, thinly bedded and of fine
+quality.
+
+As evening approached we looked for the return of Cap. and Clem,
+especially when the supper hour arrived, but twilight came, then
+darkness, and still their footfall was not heard. The Major was greatly
+disturbed over their failure to come, fearing they had gotten out of
+water, missed their way, and might now be suffering or demoralised in
+the arid wastes to eastward. He ordered a large fire to be built on a
+high spot near camp, where it would be visible for miles in the
+direction the missing men had gone. We divided into watches of two hours
+each to keep the fire going, in order that the men should have a guide
+if they were trying to reach the river in the night. I was called for
+my turn at two in the morning, and read Whittier while feeding the
+flames. The sky was mottled with clouds driving impetuously across the
+zenith, the bright moon gleaming through the interstices as they rapidly
+passed along. My attention was divided between the Quaker poet, the
+blazing fire, the mysterious environment into which I peered from time
+to time, and the flying scud playing hide-and-seek with the moon. At
+three I called Andy, who had breakfast ready before five, and all hands
+were up prepared to start on a search. By the time we had eaten there
+was light enough for operations to begin, and the Major, accompanied by
+Jack, carrying between them two days' rations and as much water as
+possible, were put across the Green to strike out directly eastward. A
+couple of hours later Prof. took a boat, with Steward and me to man it
+and another supply of food and water, and ran down the river a mile,
+where we headed back into the dry region to intersect at a distance the
+route the Major was following. We had not gone far before signal shots
+came to our ears, and through a glass turned in that direction we
+rejoiced to see that the Major and Jack had met the lost ones and all
+was well.
+
+Prof. directed me to go back on foot to our camp with instructions for
+the other boats to come down, while he, in response to further signals,
+dropped his boat to a point nearer to the position of the rescue party
+and easier for them to reach. Cap. had underestimated the distance to
+the butte, which was twice as far as he thought. They walked eight hours
+to get there only to discover that scaling it was out of the question. A
+mile and a half beyond they found one they could climb, but by the time
+they had completed their observations on top of this evening overtook
+them and they were at least fifteen miles from camp. Having consumed
+their lunch at noon and drank all their water they were in something of
+a predicament, but luckily found some water-pockets in the barren rock,
+recently filled by the rains, so they did not suffer for thirst, and
+going hungry is not dangerous. Over the wide surfaces of bare rock they
+travelled toward camp till night forced them to wait for daylight, when
+they kept on till they met the Major and Jack with water and food.
+
+No sooner had I arrived at the camp than the sky which was leaden and
+low began to drop its burden upon us. Packing up could not be done till
+the rain slackened, and we sheltered ourselves as well as we could. As
+we waited a deep roaring sound from not far off presently fell on our
+ears and we were puzzled to explain it till an examination showed a
+recently dry gulch filled with a muddy torrent which leaped the low
+cliff into the river, a sullen cascade. The San Rafael, too, was a
+booming flood. We packed the boats as soon as we could and ran down
+about two miles and a half to where the first boat was. Cliffs bordered
+the river again, 50 to 100 feet high, then 200 or 300, and we saw we
+were in the beginning of the next canyon called from its winding course,
+Labyrinth. Over these straight walls hundreds of beautiful cascades born
+of the rain were plunging into the river. They were of all sizes, all
+heights, and almost all colours, chocolate, amber, and red
+predominating. The rocky walls, mainly of a low purplish-red tint, were
+cut into by the river till the outside curves of the bends were
+perpendicular and sometimes slightly more than perpendicular, so that
+some of the cascades fell clear without a break. The acres of bare rock
+composing the surface of the land on both sides collected the rain as
+does the roof of a house, and the rills and rivulets rapidly uniting
+soon formed veritable floods of considerable proportions seeking the
+bosom of the river. This seemed the most fantastic region we had yet
+encountered. Buttes, pinnacles, turrets, spires, castles, gulches,
+alcoves, canyons and canyons, all hewn, "as the years of eternity roll"
+out of the verdureless labyrinth of solid rock, made us feel more than
+ever a sense of intruding into a forbidden realm, and having permanently
+parted from the world we formerly knew.
+
+About noon we caught up to the other boat and all had dinner together,
+happy that nothing serious had befallen Cap. and Clem. During the whole
+afternoon rain steadily fell upon the top of this rock-roofed world till
+the river rose several inches while its colour turned to a dull yellow,
+then to a red, showing how heavy the rainfall had been in the back
+country. We had our rubber ponchos on but we were more or less damp and
+we began to notice that summer had passed for the air was chilly. The
+river was perfectly smooth making navigation easy and we were able to
+pull steadily along with no interruption from rapids. The walls ever
+increased their height while over the edges the numberless astonishing
+rain cascades continued to play, varying their volume according to the
+downpour from the sky. Before long the cliffs were from 800 to 1000 feet
+high, often perpendicular, giving the waterfalls grand plunges. These
+graceful tributaries were now occasionally perfectly clear and they
+sometimes fell so far without a break that they vanished in feathery
+white spray. A projecting ledge at times might gather this spray again
+to form a second cascade before the river level was reached. The scene
+was quite magical and considering the general aridity for a large part
+of the year, it appeared almost like a phantasm.
+
+    "A land of streams! some, like a downward smoke,
+    Slow dropping veils of thinnest lawn, did go."
+
+The river twisted this way and that with the tongues of the bends filled
+with alluvial deposit bearing dense clumps of scrub-oak, and grass. Each
+new bend presented a fresh picture with the changing waterfalls leaping
+over by the dozen till we might have thought ourselves in some Norwegian
+fiord, and we gave far more attention to admiring the scenery than to
+navigating the boats. Late in the day we landed at the left on the point
+of a bend and chopped a path through the thick oak brush to a grassy
+glade, where we soon had the paulins stretched across oars supported by
+other oars forming comfortable shelters in front of which huge fires of
+dead oak and driftwood were kept going to dry things out. Andy set his
+pots to boiling and supper was soon prepared.
+
+All night the rain fell but our shelters kept us dry and every one had a
+good rest. When the morning of September 8th dawned clear and bracing we
+met it with good spirits, though the spirits of our party seldom varied
+no matter what the circumstances, and every man took as much personal
+interest in the success of the expedition as if he were entirely
+responsible for it.
+
+In order that Beaman might take some pictures and the topographers get
+notes, no move was made. Prof. climbed out obtaining a wide view in all
+directions and securing valuable data. I also went up on the cliffs and
+made a pencil sketch, and in the afternoon we explored a peculiar
+three-mouthed side canyon across the river. Three canyons came together
+at their mouths and we called the place Trin Alcove. Prof. and the Major
+walked up it some distance and then sent for Beaman to come to
+photograph. At nightfall rain began once more, and the shelters were
+again erected over the oars. Another morning came fair and we went on
+leaving Beaman to finish up views and the _Nell_ crew for other work. As
+we proceeded we would occasionally halt to wait but it was noon before
+they overtook us. Rain had begun before this and continued at intervals
+during the dinner stop. As soon as we started we ran into a heavy
+downpour and while pulling along in the midst of this our boat ran on a
+sand-bar and got so far and fast aground that it required all ten men to
+get her off, the other crews walking in the water to where we were, as
+the shoal was very wide. While thus engaged a beautiful colour effect
+developed softly before us through an opalescent, vaporous shroud. The
+sun came forth with brilliant power upon the retreating mists creating a
+clear, luminous, prismatic bow ahead of us arching in perfect symmetry
+from foot to foot of the glistening walls, while high above it resting
+each end on the first terraces a second one equally distinct bridged the
+chasm; and, exactly where these gorgeous rainbows touched the rocks,
+roaring rain cascades leaped down to add their charm to the enchanting
+picture.
+
+We were now at the beginning of a very long loop of the river, which we
+named Bow-knot Bend. Just at the start of this great turn we camped with
+a record for the whole day of 15-1/8 miles. Steward found some fragments
+of pottery. The next morning we remained here till ten for views, and
+then we left Beaman on the summit of the low dividing ridge, where one
+could look into the river on either side and see a point which we rowed
+more than five miles to reach.[15] On the right bank we stopped for
+dinner, and when it was about ready several of us crossed, and, helping
+Beaman down with his heavy boxes, ferried him to our side. The opposite
+bank was no more than one thousand feet in a straight line from our
+starting-place of the morning. Instead of now going on, a halt was
+made, because Steward, prowling around after his custom, had found some
+fossils that were important and he wanted more. The Major, with Jack,
+crossed the river for further geological investigations, while Prof. and
+Jones started to climb out, though the prospect was not encouraging.
+They ascended over rock, strangely eroded by water into caverns and
+holes, then along a ledge till Jones, being a taller man than Prof., got
+up and pulled Prof. after him with his revolver belt. They obtained a
+remarkable view. Buttes, ridges, mountains stood all round, with the
+river so completely lost in the abruptness of its chasm that a mile from
+the brink the whole region was apparently solid, and the existence of
+the gorge with a river at bottom would not even be suspected. They could
+trace the line of Grand River by tower-like buttes and long ridges, and
+just at the gap formed by the junction with the Green a blue mountain
+arose. The Sierra La Sal, too, could be seen lying on the horizon like
+blue clouds. "Weird and wild, barren and ghost-like, it seemed like an
+unknown world," said Prof. The country was a vast plateau similar to the
+one through which the Canyon of Desolation is carved, that is tilting
+northward and increasing in altitude towards the south, so that as the
+river runs on its canyon becomes deeper from this cause as well as its
+cutting. These great terraces sloping to the north were not before
+understood. They terminate on the south in vertical cliffs through which
+the river emerges abruptly. From such features as these the Major named
+this the Plateau Province. The cliffs terminating each plateau form
+intricate escarpments, meandering for many miles, and they might be
+likened to a series of irregular and complicated steps. Occasional high
+buttes and mountain masses break the surface, but in general the whole
+area forming the major part of the basin of the Colorado may be
+described as a plateau country--a land of mesas, cliffs, and canyons.
+
+[Illustration: Labyrinth Canyon--Bowknot Bend.
+
+The Great Loop Is behind the Spectator.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+The next day, September 11th, we were on the river at 7.30, and ran
+about seven miles on smooth water before we stopped for a mid-day rest
+and dinner on the right bank, as well as to enable Beaman to take some
+views he desired. Another three miles and we halted again for
+geologising and for photographs, while Prof., taking Andy in his boat,
+went ahead to establish a camp somewhere below for the night, in order
+that we would not be so late getting supper. The days were now growing
+short, and supper by firelight was a common thing. Rain soon began again
+and put a stop to the work, driving us forward between the scores of
+cascades which soon began to leap anew from every height to the river.
+At one place a waterfall shot out from behind an arch set against the
+wall, making a singular but beautiful effect, and revealing to us one
+method by which some of the arches are formed. The place Prof. had
+selected for camp was reached almost the same time that he got there. It
+was on the left among the greasewood bushes, and there we put up our
+paulins for shelter on oars as before. We had made about fifteen miles.
+The walls receded from the river, forming what the Major named the
+Orange Cliffs, and were much broken, while the back country could be
+seen in places from our boats. Scores, hundreds, multitudes of buttes of
+bare rock of all shapes and sizes were in sight, and one was called the
+Butte of the Cross, because it suggested a cross lying down from one
+position, though from another it was seen to be in reality two distinct
+masses. Here ended Labyrinth Canyon according to the Major's decision.
+We credited it with a length of 62-1/2 miles. Although winding through
+an extremely arid country, it had for us been a place of rain and
+waterfalls, and even though rapids were absent we had been nevertheless
+kept rather wet.
+
+There was not much change in structure between Labyrinth Canyon and the
+following one of the series, Stillwater. The interval was one of
+lowered, much broken walls, well back from the river, leaving wide
+bottom lands on the sides. We went ahead in the morning on quiet water
+for seven or eight miles, and stopped on a high bank for dinner and for
+examinations. Prof., Cap., Steward, and the Major climbed out. Steward
+got separated from the others by trying to reach a rather distant butte,
+and when he tried to rejoin us he had considerable difficulty in doing
+so. For half an hour he searched for a place to get down, and we looked
+for one also from the bottom, and finally he was compelled to go down
+half a mile farther, where he made the descent only to find himself in a
+dense jungle of rose-bushes, willows, and other plants. We had to cut a
+way in to relieve him. The luxuriant growth of these plants seemed to
+indicate that the barrenness of the plateau was due not so much to
+aridity as to the peculiar rock formation, which, disintegrating easily
+under the frosts and rains, prevented the accumulation of soil. The soil
+was washed away by every rain and carried by thousands of cataracts into
+the river. Only when the country reaches the "base level of erosion," as
+the Major called it, would vegetation succeed in holding its place; that
+is when the declivity of the surrounding region became reduced till the
+rain torrents should lack the velocity necessary to transport any great
+load of detritus, and the disintegrated material would accumulate, give
+a footing to plants, and thus further protect itself and the rocks.
+
+[Illustration: Stillwater Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+The Major and Prof. now decided to use up all the photographic material
+between this point and the Dirty Devil, and leave one boat at the latter
+place till the next season, when a party would come in for it and take
+it down to the Paria. We would be obliged to examine the Dirty Devil
+region then in any event. Three miles below our dinner camp we arrived
+at a remarkably picturesque bend, and on the outer circumference we made
+our sixtieth camp, but so late that supper was eaten by firelight. The
+bend was named by Beaman "Bonito," and in the morning he made a number
+of views. The bottom lands along the river had evidently been utilised
+by the aboriginal inhabitants for farming, as fragments of pottery
+occasionally found indicated their presence here in former days. It was
+afternoon when we pushed off and left Bonito Bend behind. After a few
+miles the Major and Prof. tried to climb out, but they failed. A buff
+sandstone, resting on red shale, was vertical for about 140 feet
+everywhere and could not be surmounted. Above this stood another
+vertical wall of five hundred feet, an orange coloured sandstone, in
+which no break was apparent. These walls closed in on the river,
+leaving barely a margin in many places. There were few landings, the
+current, rather swift and smooth, swirling along the foot of the rocks,
+which rose vertically for 250 feet and were about four hundred feet
+apart. As the evening came on we could find no place to stop that
+offered room enough for a camp, and we drifted on and on till almost
+dark, when we discovered a patch of soil on the right that would give us
+sufficient space. The 13th of September happened to be my birthday, and
+Andy had promised to stew a mess of dried apples in celebration. This
+does not sound like a tremendous treat, but circumstances give the test.
+Our supply of rations being limited and now running low, Andy for some
+time had been curbing our appetites. Stewed dried apples were granted
+about once a week, and boiled beans were an equal luxury. It was
+consequently a disappointment not to get the promised extra allowance of
+apples on this occasion. Not only was the hour late, but there was
+little wood to be had, though diligent raking around produced enough
+driftwood to cook our supper of bacon, coffee, and bread. Our camp was
+beneath an overhanging cliff about six hundred feet high, and the walls
+near us were so heavily coated with salt that it could be broken off in
+chunks anywhere. The quarters were not roomy, but we got a good sleep.
+In the morning before he was fairly awake Steward discovered fossils in
+the rocks over his head, and we remained till one o'clock in order that
+an investigation could be made. He collected about a peck of fine
+specimens. When we started again the canyon was so interesting,
+particularly to the geologists, that we stopped several times in a run
+of five miles between vertical walls not over six hundred feet apart.
+Camp was finally made on the right in a sort of alcove, with a level
+fertile bottom of several acres, where the ancients had grown corn.
+Evidences of their former life here were numerous. Steward, climbing on
+the cliffs, suddenly gave a loud shout, announcing a discovery. He had
+found two small huts built into the rocks. Several of us went up to look
+at them. They were of great age and so small that they could have been
+only storage places. Withered and hardened corncobs were found within
+them.
+
+On returning to camp we learned that the Major had found some larger
+house ruins on a terrace some distance up the river. Around the
+camp-fire that evening he told us something about the Shinumos, as he
+called them, who long ago had inhabited this region, and in imagination
+we now beheld them again climbing the cliffs or toiling at their
+agriculture in the small bottom land.
+
+At daylight Steward, Clem, and I went up to the ruins, which stood on a
+terrace projecting in such a way that a clear view could be had up and
+down the river. There were two houses built of stone slabs, each about
+13 × 15 feet, and about six feet of wall were still standing. Thirty
+feet or more below ran the river, and there were remains of an old
+stairway leading down through a crevice to the river, but too much
+disintegrated for us to descend. These were the first ruins of the kind
+I had ever seen, and I was as much interested in them as I afterwards
+was in the Colosseum.
+
+Prof., being desirous of arriving as speedily as possible at the
+junction of the Grand with the Green, which was now not far off, for the
+purpose of getting an observation for time, left us at seven o'clock and
+proceeded in advance, while the remainder of the party turned their
+attention to the locality where we were. We could see traces of an old
+trail up the cliffs, and the Major, Jack, Andy, and Jones started to
+follow this out. With the aid of ropes taken along and stones piled up,
+as well as a cottonwood pole that had been placed as a ladder by the
+ancients, they succeeded in reaching the summit. Clem and I went back to
+the large house ruins for a re-examination, and looked over the
+quantities of broken arrowheads of jasper and the potsherds strewing the
+place in search of specimens of value. On the return trip of the
+climbers Andy discovered an earthen jar, fifteen inches high and about
+twelve inches in diameter, of the "pinched-coil" type, under a
+sheltering rock, covered by a piece of flat stone, where it had rested
+for many a decade if not for a century. It contained a small coil of
+split-willow, such as is used in basketry, tied with cord of aboriginal
+make. Some one had placed it there for a few moments.
+
+After dinner we continued down the canyon, taking the pot with us. The
+walls were nearly vertical on both sides, or at any rate appeared so to
+us from the boats, and they often came straight into the water, with
+here and there a few willows. They were not more than 450 feet apart.
+No rapids troubled us, and the current was less than three miles an
+hour, but we seemed to be going swiftly even without rowing. After about
+seven miles the trend of the chasm became easterly, and we saw the mouth
+of the Grand, the Junction, that hidden mystery which, unless we count
+D. Julien, only nine white men, the Major's first party, had ever seen
+before us. The Grand entered through a canyon similar to that of the
+Green, all the immediate walls being at least 800 feet and the summit of
+the plateau about 1500 feet above the river. On the right was a small
+bench, perhaps one-third of a mile long and several rods wide, fringed
+by a sand-bank, on which we found the crew of the _Nell_ established in
+Camp 62. Between the two rivers was another footing of about two acres,
+bearing several hackberry trees, and it was on this bank up the Grand
+River side that the first party camped. Across on the east shore we
+could see still another strip with some bushes, but there was no more
+horizontal land to be found here. The two rivers blended gracefully on
+nearly equal terms, and the doubled volume started down with reckless
+impetuosity. This was the end of Stillwater Canyon, with a length of
+42-3/4 miles. At last we had finished the canyons of the Green, with
+every boat in good condition and not a man injured in any way, and now
+we stood before the grim jaws of the Colorado. Our descent from Gunnison
+Crossing was 215 feet, with not a rapid that was worth recording, and
+from the Union Pacific crossing in feet, 2215, and in miles, 539. The
+altitude of the Junction is 3860 feet above sea-level.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 13: In fact there was only one practicable place, El Vado de
+los Padres, and that was difficult. The alternative would have been to
+cross Arizona south of the Colorado. By this Gunnison Crossing route
+there were better wood, water, and grass to compensate for distance.]
+
+[Footnote 14: It is here that the Denver and Rio Grande railway crossed,
+bridging the river in 1883. From here also the Brown Expedition started
+in May, 1889, and the Best Expedition in 1891.]
+
+[Footnote 15: Many years afterward on a rock face half-way round this
+bend the inscription, D. Julien 1836 3 Mai, was found. The same
+inscription was also found in two other places just below the mouth of
+Grand River and near the end of Cataract Canyon.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+     A Wonderland of Crags and Pinnacles--Poverty Rations--Fast and
+     Furious Plunging Waters--Boulders Boom along the
+     Bottom--Chilly Days and Shivering--A Wild Tumultuous Chasm--A
+     Bad Passage by Twilight and a Tornado with a Picture
+     Moonrise--Out of one Canyon into Another--At the Mouth of the
+     Dirty Devil at Last.
+
+
+We were on the threshold of what the Major had previously named Cataract
+Canyon, because the declivity within it is so great and the water
+descends with such tremendous velocity and continuity that he thought
+the term rapid failed to interpret the conditions. The addition of the
+almost equal volume of the Grand--indeed it was now a little greater
+owing to extra heavy rains along its course--doubled the depth and
+velocity of the river till it swirled on into the new canyon before us
+with a fierce, threatening intensity, sapping the flat sand-bank on
+which our camp was laid and rapidly eating it away. Large masses with a
+sudden splash would drop out of sight and dissolve like sugar in a cup
+of tea. We were obliged to be on the watch lest the moorings of the
+boats should be loosened, allowing them to sweep pell-mell before us
+down the gorge. The long ropes were carried back to their limit and made
+fast to stakes driven deep into the hard sand. Jack and I became
+dissatisfied with the position of our boat and dropped it down two or
+three hundred yards to a place where the conditions were better, and
+camped by it. There were a few small cottonwoods against the cliff
+behind the sand-bank, but they were too far off to be reached by our
+lines, and the ground beneath them was too irregular and rocky for a
+camp. These trees, with the hackberry trees across the river and
+numerous stramonium bushes in full blossom, composed the chief
+vegetation of this extraordinary locality. No more remote place existed
+at that time within the United States--no place more difficult of
+access. Macomb in his reconnaissance in 1859 had tried hard to arrive
+here, but he got no nearer than the edge of the plateau about thirty
+miles up Grand River.
+
+It was necessary that we should secure topographic notes and
+observations from the summit, and we scanned the surroundings for the
+most promising place for exit. The Major was sure we could make a
+successful ascent to the upper regions by way of a narrow cleft on the
+right or west some distance back up the Green, which he had noted as we
+came along; so in the morning of Saturday, September 16th, he and Jack,
+Beaman, Clem, Jones, and I rowed up in the _Cañonita_, the current being
+slow along the west bank, and started up the crevice, dragging the
+cumbrous photographic outfit along. Prof. remained below for
+observations for time. The cleft was filled with fallen rocks, and we
+had no trouble mounting, except that the photographic boxes were like
+lead and the straps across one's chest made breathing difficult. The
+climb was tiring, but there was no obstacle, and we presently emerged on
+the surface of the country 1300 feet above the river and 5160 above the
+sea. Here was revealed a wide cyclorama that was astounding. Nothing was
+in sight but barren sandstone, red, yellow, brown, grey, carved into an
+amazing multitude of towers, buttes, spires, pinnacles, some of them
+several hundred feet high, and all shimmering under a dazzling sun. It
+was a marvellous mighty desert of bare rock, chiselled by the ages out
+of the foundations of the globe; fantastic, extraordinary, antediluvian,
+labyrinthian, and slashed in all directions by crevices; crevices wide,
+crevices narrow, crevices medium, some shallow, some dropping till a
+falling stone clanked resounding into the far hollow depths. Scarcely
+could we travel a hundred yards but we were compelled to leap some deep,
+dark crack. Often they were so wide a running jump was necessary, and at
+times the smooth rock sloped on both sides toward the crevice rather
+steeply. Once the Major came sliding down a bare slope till at a point
+where he caught sight of the edge of a sombre fissure just where he
+must land. He could not see its width; he could not return, and there he
+hung. Luckily I was where by another path I could quickly reach the
+rock below, and I saw that the crevice was not six inches wide, and I
+shouted the joyful news. Steward had not come up with us, but had
+succeeded in ascending through a narrow crevice below camp. He soon
+arrived within speaking distance, but there he was foiled by a crack too
+wide to jump, and he had to remain a stranger to us the rest of the day.
+At a little distance back from the brink these crevices were not so
+numerous nor so wide, and there we discovered a series of extremely
+pretty "parks" lost amidst the million turreted rocks. I made a pencil
+sketch looking out into this Sinav-to-weap, as the Major called it from
+information obtained from the Utes.[16] Beaman secured a number of
+photographs, but not all that were desired, and, as we did not have
+rations for stopping on the summit, we went back to camp and made the
+climb again the next day. Fortunately the recent rains had filled many
+hollows in the bare rock, forming pockets of delicious, pure water,
+where we could drink, but on a hot and dry summer's day travelling here
+would be intolerable, if not impossible. Fragments of arrow-heads, chips
+of chalcedony, and quantities of potsherds scattered around proved that
+our ancient Shinumos had known the region well. Doubtless some of their
+old trails would lead to large and deep water-pockets. There are
+pot-holes in this bare sandstone of enormous size, often several feet in
+depth and of similar diameter, which become filled with rain-water that
+lasts a long time. The Shinumos had numerous dwellings all through this
+country, with trails leading from place to place, highways and byways.
+
+The following day the Major and Jones climbed out on the side opposite
+camp, that is on the east side, where they found an old trail and
+evidences of camping during the summer just closed, probably by the
+Utes. That night, Jones, in attempting to enter our boat in the
+moonlight, stepped on the corner of the hatch of the middle cabin, which
+was not on securely; it tipped, and he was thrown in such a way as to
+severely injure his leg below the knee. This was the first mishap thus
+far to any one of the party.
+
+The Major entertained some idea of making a boat trip up the Grand, but
+he abandoned it, and we prepared for the work ahead. The rations, which
+were now fallen to poverty bulk, were carefully overhauled and evenly
+distributed among the boats, so that the wrecking of any one would not
+deprive us of more than a portion of each article. The amount for daily
+use was also determined; of the bacon we were to have at a meal only
+half the usual quantity. We knew Cataract Canyon was rough, but by this
+time we were in excellent training and thoroughly competent for the kind
+of navigation required; ready for anything that strong boats like ours
+could live through. At ten o'clock on Tuesday, September 19th, the
+cabins were all packed, the life preservers were inflated, and casting
+off from Camp 62 we were borne down with the swift current. The water
+was muddy, of a coffee-and-cream colour, and the river was falling. Not
+far below our camp we saw a beaten trail coming down a singular canyon
+on the left or east side, showing again that the natives understood the
+way in to the Junction.[17] We knew it was not far to rapids, as we had
+seen two heavy ones from the brink above, and we soon heard the familiar
+roar of plunging water, a sound which had been absent since the end of
+Gray Canyon. Presently we were bearing down on the first one, looking
+for the way to pass it. On landing at the head it was seen to be a
+rather rough place, and it was deemed advisable to avoid running it. The
+boats were carefully let down by lines and we went on. In a short
+distance we reached a second rapid, where we decided to repeat the
+operation that took us past the other, but these two let-downs consumed
+much time and gave us hard work. The water was cold, we were wet and
+hungry, and when we arrived at a third that was more forbidding than the
+ones above we halted for dinner at its beginning. The muddy water boomed
+and plunged over innumerable rocks--a mad, irresistible flood. So great
+was the declivity of the river bed that boulders were rolled along under
+water with a sound like distant thunder. We had noticed this also in
+Lodore, but in Cataract it was more common. The rumbling was
+particularly noticeable if one were standing in the water, as we so
+continually were. After dinner the boats were lowered past the rapid,
+but we had no respite, for presently we came upon another big one, then
+another, and another, and then still another, all following quickly and
+giving us plenty of extremely hard work, for we would not risk the boats
+in any of them. When these were behind us we went on a distance and came
+to one that we ran, and then, wet through and shivering till our teeth
+chattered, as well as being hungry and tired, every one was glad to hear
+the decision to go into camp when we arrived at the top of another very
+ugly pair of them. The canyon having a north and south trend and it
+being autumn, the sun disappeared early so far as we were concerned; the
+shadows were deep, the mountain air was penetrating. As soon as possible
+our soaking river garments were thrown off, the dry clothing from the
+rubber bags was put on, the limited bacon was sending its fragrance into
+the troubled air, the bread took on a nice deep brown in the Dutch oven,
+the coffee's aromatic steam drifted from the fire, and warm and
+comfortable we sat down to the welcome though meagre meal. The rule was
+three little strips of bacon, a chunk of bread about the size of one's
+fist, and coffee without stint for each man three times a day. Sugar was
+a scarce article, and I learned to like coffee without it so well that I
+have never taken it with sugar since. The "Tirtaan Aigles" needed now
+all the muscle and energy they could command, and an early hour found
+every man sound asleep. The record for the first day in Cataract Canyon
+was nine miles, with eight bad rapids or cataracts, as they might
+properly be called, and out of the eight we ran but one.[18] The river
+was about 250 feet wide.
+
+[Illustration: Clement Powell
+
+Cataract Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871]
+
+The Major decided the next morning that he would try to get out on the
+right, and he took me with him. We had no great trouble in reaching the
+plateau at an elevation of eighteen hundred feet above the river, where
+we could see an immense area of unknown country. The broken and
+pinnacled character was not so marked as it had been at the Junction,
+but it was still a strange, barren land. We expected to find
+water-pockets on the top, and we had carried with us only one quart
+canteen of water. While the Major was taking notes from the summit of a
+butte, I made a zealous search for water, but not a drop could I find;
+every hole was dry. The sun burned down from a clear sky that melted
+black into eternal space. The yellow sand threw the hot rays upward, and
+so also did the smooth bare rock. No bird, no bee, no thing of life
+could be seen. I came to a whitish cliff upon which I thought there
+might be water-pockets, and I mounted by a steep slope of broken stones.
+Suddenly, almost within touch, I saw before me a golden yellow
+rattlesnake gliding upward in the direction I was going along the cliff
+wall. I killed it with a stone, and cut off the rattles and continued my
+reconnaissance. At length I gave up the search. By the time I had
+returned to the foot of the butte on which the Major was making his
+observations, the heat had exhausted me till I was obliged to rest a few
+moments before ascending the sixty feet to where he was. I had carried
+the canteen all the time, and the water in it was hot from exposure to
+the sun. The Major bade me rest while he made a little fire, and by the
+aid of a can and ground coffee we had brought he made a strong decoction
+with the whole quart. This gave us two cups apiece, and we had some
+bread to go with it. The effect was magical. My fatigue vanished. I felt
+equal to anything, and we began the return.
+
+The Major having no right arm, he sometimes got in a difficult situation
+when climbing, if his right side came against a smooth surface where
+there was nothing opposite. We had learned to go down by the same route
+followed up, because otherwise one is never sure of arriving at the
+bottom, as a ledge half-way down might compel a return to the summit. We
+remembered that at one point there was no way for him to hold on, the
+cliff being smooth on the right, while on the left was empty air, with a
+sheer drop of several hundred feet. The footing too was narrow. I
+climbed down first, and, bracing myself below with my back to the abyss,
+I was able to plant my right foot securely in such a manner that my
+right knee formed a solid step for him at the critical moment. On this
+improvised step he placed his left foot, and in a twinkling had made the
+passage in safety.
+
+During our absence the men below had been at work. Camp was moved down
+the river some three quarters of a mile, while the boats had been
+lowered past the ugly pair of rapids, and were moored at the camp below
+the second. In one the current had "got the bulge," as we called it, on
+the men on the line; that is, the powerful current had hit the bow in
+such a way that the boat took the diagonal of forces and travelled up
+and out into the river. For the men it was either let go or be pulled
+in. They let go, and the boat dashed down with her cargo on board.
+Fortune was on our side. She went through without injury and shot into
+an eddy below. With all speed the men rushed down, and Jack, plunging
+in, swam to her and got on before she could take a fresh start. It was a
+narrow escape, but it taught a lesson that was not forgotten. Prof. had
+succeeded in getting some observations, and all was well. It was bean
+day, too, according to our calendar, and all hands had a treat.
+
+By eight o'clock the next morning, Thursday, September 21st, we were on
+the way again, with the boats "close reefed," as it were, for trouble,
+but one, two, three and one half miles slid easily behind. Then, as if
+to make up for this bit of leniency, six rapids came in close
+succession, though they were of a kind that we could safely run, and all
+the boats went flying through them without a mishap of any kind. The
+next was a plunger so mixed up with rocks that we made a let-down and
+again proceeded a short distance before we were halted by one more of
+the same sort, though we were able to run the lower portion of it. A
+little below this we met a friendly drop, and whizzed through its rush
+and roar in triumph. But there was nothing triumphant about the one
+which followed, so far as our work was concerned. We manoeuvred past
+it with much difficulty only to find ourselves upon two more bad ones.
+Bad as they were, they were nevertheless runable, and away we dashed
+with breakneck speed, certainly not less than twenty miles an hour, down
+both of them, to land on the left immediately at the beginning of a
+great and forbidding descent. These let-downs were difficult, often
+requiring all hands to each boat, except the Major, whose one-armed
+condition made it too hard for him to assist in the midst of rocks and
+rushing water, where one had to be very nimble and leap and balance with
+exactness. Two good arms were barely sufficient. Sometimes, in order to
+pass the gigantic boulders that stretched far off from the shore, the
+boat had to be shot around and hauled in below, an operation requiring
+skill, strength, and celerity.
+
+The walls, very craggy at the top, increased in altitude till they were
+now about sixteen hundred feet, separated from each other by one third
+of a mile. The flaring character of the upper miles of the canyon began
+to change to a narrower gorge, the cliffs showing a nearer approach to
+verticality. At the head of the forbidding plunge we had our slice of
+bacon, with bread and coffee, and then we fought our way down alongside
+amongst immense boulders and roaring water. It was an exceedingly hard
+place to vanquish, and required two and a half hours of the most violent
+exertion to accomplish it. All were necessary to handle each boat.
+Hardly had we passed beyond the turmoil of its fierce opposition than we
+fell upon another scarcely less antagonistic, but yet apparently so free
+from rocks that the Major concluded it could be run. At the outset our
+boat struck on a concealed rock, and for a moment it seemed that we
+might capsize, but luckily she righted, swung free, and swept down with
+no further trouble. The _Nell_ struck the same rock and so did the
+_Cañonita_, but neither was injured or even halted. These boats were
+somewhat lighter than ours, having one man less in each, and therefore
+did not hit the rock so hard. The boats were now heavy from being
+water-soaked, for the paint was gone from the bottoms. This would have
+made no difference in any ordinary waters, but it did here, where we
+were obliged to lift them so constantly.
+
+This was an extremely rough and wet day's work, and the moment the great
+cliffs cut off the warmth of the direct sun we were thrown suddenly from
+summer to winter, and our saturated clothing, uncomfortably cool in
+sunlight, became icy with the evaporation and the cold shadow-air. We
+turned blue, and no matter how firmly I tried to shut my teeth they
+rattled like a pair of castanets. Though it was only half-past three,
+the Major decided to camp as soon as he saw this effect, much as we had
+need to push on. We landed on the right, and were soon revived by dry
+clothes and a big fire of driftwood. We had made during the day a total
+distance of a trifle less than seven miles, one and three quarters since
+dinner. There were fourteen rapids and cataracts, nine of which we ran,
+on a river about two hundred feet wide. We had sand to sleep on, but all
+around us were rocks, rocks, rocks, with the mighty bounding cliffs
+lifting up to the sky. Our books for the time being were not disturbed,
+but Whittier's lines, read further up, seemed here exactly appropriate
+to the Colorado:
+
+    "Hurrying down to its grave, the sea,
+    And slow through the rock its pathway hewing!
+    Far down, through the mist of the falling river,
+    Which rises up like an incense ever,
+    The splintered points of the crags are seen,
+    With water howling and vexed between,
+    While the scooping whirl of the pool beneath
+    Seems an open throat, with its granite teeth!"
+
+It was not long before the blankets were taken from the rubber bags and
+spread on the sand, and the rapids, the rocks, and all our troubles were
+forgotten.
+
+The next day was almost a repetition of the preceding one. We began by
+running a graceful little rapid, just beyond which we came to a very bad
+place. The river was narrow and deep, with a high velocity, and the
+channel was filled with enormous rocks. Two hours of the hardest kind of
+work in and out of the water, climbing over gigantic boulders along the
+bank, lifting the boats and sliding them on driftwood skids, tugging,
+pulling, shoving every minute with might and main put us at the bottom.
+No sooner were we past this one than we engaged in a similar battle with
+another of the same nature, and below it we stopped for dinner, amidst
+some huge boulders under a hackberry tree, near another roarer. One of
+these cataracts had a fall of not less than twenty feet in six hundred,
+which gave the water terrific force and violence. The canyon walls
+closed in more and more and ran up to two thousand feet, apparently
+nearly vertical as one looked up at them, but there was always plenty of
+space for landings and camps. Opposite the noon camp we could see to a
+height beyond of at least three thousand feet. We were in the heart of
+another great plateau. After noon we attacked the very bad rapid beside
+whose head we had eaten, and it was half-past three when we had finished
+it. The boats had been considerably pounded and there was a hole in the
+_Dean_, and a plank sprung in the _Nell_ so that her middle cabin was
+half full of water. The iron strip on the _Dean's_ keel was breaking
+off. Repairs were imperative, and on the right, near the beginning of
+one of the worst falls we had yet seen, we went into camp for the rest
+of the day. With false ribs made from oars we strengthened the boats and
+put them in condition for another day's hammering. It seemed as if we
+must have gone this day quite a long distance, but on footing up it was
+found to be no more than a mile and a quarter. Darkness now fell early
+and big driftwood fires made the evenings cheerful. There was a vast
+amount of driftwood in tremendous piles, trees, limbs, boughs, railroad
+ties; a great mixture of all kinds, some of it lying full fifty feet
+above the present level of the river. There were large and small
+tree-trunks battered and limbless, the ends pounded to a spongy mass of
+splinters. Our bright fires enabled us to read, or to write up notes and
+diaries. I think each one but the Major and Andy kept a diary and
+faithfully wrote it up. Jack occasionally gave us a song or two from the
+repertory already described, and Steward did not forget the mouth-organ,
+but through the hardest part of Cataract Canyon we were usually tired
+enough to take to our blankets early.
+
+In the morning we began the day by running a little rapid between our
+camp and the big one that we saw from there, and then we had to exert
+some careful engineering to pass below by means of the lines. This
+accomplished we found a repetition of the same kind of work necessary
+almost immediately, at the next rapid. In places we had to lift the
+boats out and slide them along on driftwood skids. These rapids were
+largely formed by enormous rocks which had fallen from the cliffs, and
+over, around, and between these it was necessary to manoeuvre the
+boats by lines to avoid the furious waters of the outer river. After
+dinner we arrived at a descent which at first glance seemed as bad as
+anything we had met in the morning but an examination showed a prospect
+of a successful run through it. The fall was nearly twenty feet in about
+as many yards. The Major and Prof. examined it long and carefully. A
+successful run would take two minutes, while a let-down would occupy us
+for at least two hours and it had some difficult points. They hesitated
+about running the place, for they would not take a risk that was not
+necessary, but finally they concluded it could be safely accomplished,
+and we pulled the _Dean_ as quickly as possible into the middle of the
+river and swung down into it. On both sides the water was hammered to
+foam amidst great boulders and the roar as usual was deafening. Just
+through the centre was a clean, clear chute followed by a long tail of
+waves breaking and snapping like some demon's jaws. As we struck into
+them they swept over us like combers on the beach in a great storm. It
+seemed to me here and at other similar places that we went through some
+of the waves like a needle and jumped to the top of others, to balance
+half-length out of water for an instant before diving to another trough.
+Being in the very bow the waves, it appeared to me, sometimes completely
+submerged me and almost took my breath away with the sudden impact. At
+any rate it was lively work, with a current of fifteen or eighteen miles
+an hour. Beaman had stationed himself where he could get a negative of
+us ploughing through these breakers, but his wet-plates were too slow
+and he had no success. After this came a place which permitted no such
+jaunty treatment. It was in fact three or four rapids following each
+other so closely that, though some might be successfully run, the last
+was not safe, and no landing could be made at its head, so a very long
+let-down was obligatory; but it was an easy one, for each crew could
+take its own boat down without help from the others. Then, tired, wet,
+and cold as usual, we landed on the left in a little cove where there
+was a sandy beach for our Camp 67. We had made less than four miles, in
+which distance there were six rapids, only two of which we ran. At
+another stage of water the number and character of these rapids would be
+changed; some would be easier at higher water, some harder, and the same
+would be true of lower water. Rapids also change their character from
+time to time as rocks are shifted along the bottom and more rocks fall
+from the cliffs or are brought in by side floods. The walls were now
+about two thousand feet, of limestone, with a reddish stain, and they
+were so near together that the sun shone to the bottom only during the
+middle hours of the day in September.
+
+It was now September 24th; a bright and beautiful Sunday broke, the sky
+above clear and tranquil, the river below foaming and fuming between the
+ragged walls in one continuous rapid with merely variations of descent.
+In three quarters of a mile we arrived before the greatest portion of
+the declivity, where, though there seemed to be a clear chute, we did
+not consider it advisable to make the run because of conditions
+following; neither could we make a regular let-down or a portage. The
+least risky method was to carry a line down and when all was ready start
+the boat in at the top alone. In this way when she had gone through, the
+men on the line below were able to bring her up and haul her in before
+reaching the next bad plunge. There was no quiet river anywhere; nothing
+but rushing, swirling, plunging water and rocks. We got past the bad
+spot successfully and went on making one let-down after another for
+about four miles, when we halted at noon for the rest of the day, well
+satisfied with our progress though in distance it appeared so slight.
+The afternoon was spent in repairing boats, working up notes, and taking
+observations. The cliffs were now some 2500 feet in height, ragged and
+broken on their faces, but close together, the narrowest deep chasm we
+had seen. It was truly a terrible place, with the fierce river, the
+giant walls, and the separation from any known path to the outer world.
+I thought of the Major's first trip, when it was not known what kind of
+waters were here. Vertical and impassable falls might easily have barred
+his way and cataracts behind prevented return, so that here in a death
+trap they would have been compelled to plunge into the river or wait for
+starvation. Happly he had encountered no such conditions.
+
+An interesting feature of this canyon was the manner in which huge
+masses of rock lying in the river had been ground into each other by the
+force of the current. One block of sandstone, weighing not less than six
+hundred tons, being thirty or forty feet long by twenty feet square, had
+been oscillated till the limestone boulders on which it rested had
+ground into it at least two feet, fitting closely. Another enormous
+piece was slowly and regularly rocking as the furious current beat upon
+it, and one could feel the movement distinctly. A good night's sleep
+made all of us fresh again, and we began the Monday early. Some worked
+on the boats, while Beaman and Clem went up "Gypsum" Canyon, as Steward
+named it, for views, and the Major and I climbed out for topographic
+observations. We reached an altitude above camp of 3135 feet at a point
+seven or eight miles back from the brink. The view in all directions
+was beyond words to describe. Mountains and mountains, canyons, cliffs,
+pinnacles, buttes surrounded us as far as we could see, and the range
+was extensive. The Sierra La Sal, the Sierra Abajo, and other short
+ranges lay blue in the distance, while comparatively near in the
+south-west rose the five beautiful peaks just beyond the mouth of the
+Dirty Devil, composing the unknown range before mentioned. At noon we
+made coffee, had lunch, and then went on. It was four o'clock by the
+time we concluded to start back, and darkness overtook us before we were
+fairly down the cliffs, but there was a bright moon, and by its aid we
+reached camp.
+
+At half-past eight in the morning of September 26th we were again
+working our way down the torrential river. Anybody who tries to go
+through here in any haphazard fashion will surely come to grief. It is a
+passage that can safely be made only with the most extreme caution. The
+walls grew straighter, and they grew higher till the gorge assumed
+proportions that seemed to me the acme of the stupendous and
+magnificent. The scenery may not have been beautiful in the sense that
+an Alpine lake is beautiful, but in the exhibition of the power and
+majesty of nature it was sublime. There was the same general barrenness:
+only a few hackberry trees, willows, and a cottonwood or two along the
+margin of the river made up the vegetation. Our first task was a
+difficult let-down, which we accomplished safely, to find that we could
+run two rapids following it and half of another, landing then to
+complete it by a let-down. Then came a very sharp drop that we ran,
+which put us before another easy one, that was followed by a difficult
+bit of navigation through a bad descent, after which we stopped for
+dinner on the right at the head of another rapid. The cliffs now on both
+sides were about 2800 feet, one quarter mile wide at top, and in places
+striking me as being perpendicular, especially in the outer curve of the
+bends. The boats seemed to be scarcely more than chips on the sweeping
+current and we not worth mentioning. During the afternoon we halted a
+number of times for Beaman to make photographs, but the proportions were
+almost too great for any camera. The foreground parts are always
+magnified, while the distances are diminished, till the view is not that
+which the eye perceives. Before stopping for the night we ran three
+more rapids, and camped on the right on a sandbank at the head of
+another forbidding place. The record for the whole day was six and three
+quarter miles, with ten runs and two let-downs. At one bad place the
+_Nell_ got too far over and laboured so heavily in the enormous billows
+that Cap., who pulled the bow oars, was completely lost to sight and the
+boat was filled with water. Only about thirty degrees of sky were
+visible as one looked directly up from our camp. A pretty canyon came in
+near camp, and some of us took a walk up its narrow way.
+
+[Illustration: Cataract Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+In the morning Beaman made some pictures, and it was eleven o'clock
+before we resumed our navigation. Our first work was a let-down, which
+took an hour, and about a mile below we stopped for dinner on the left.
+Then we continued, making eight miles more, in which distance we ran six
+rapids and made two line-portages. The last rapid was a bad one, and
+there we made one of the portages, camping at its foot on the left bank.
+The walls began to diminish in height and the river was less
+precipitous, as is apparent from the progress we were able to make.
+September 28th we began by running two rapids immediately below camp,
+and the _Nell_ remained at the foot of the second to signal Beaman in
+the _Cañonita_, as he had stayed behind to take some views. Another mile
+brought us to a rather bad place, the right having a vertical cliff
+about 2700 feet high, but the left was composed of boulders spread over
+a wide stretch, so that an excellent footing was offered. The Major and
+Prof. concluded to climb out here, instead of a point farther down
+called Millecrag Bend, and, appointing Steward master of the let-down
+which was necessary, they left us. It was dinner-time when we got the
+boats below to a safe cove, and we were quite ready for the meal which
+Andy meanwhile had been cooking. A beautiful little brook came down a
+narrow canyon on the left, and it was up this stream that the Major went
+for a mile and a half and then climbed on the side. They were obliged to
+give it up and come back to the bottom. By this time it was too late to
+make another attempt, so they turned their backs on "Failure Creek,"
+and, returning to us, said we would go on as soon as we had eaten the
+supper which Andy was preparing. They would climb out at Millecrag Bend.
+Andy had cooked a mess of beans, about the last we had, and what we did
+not eat we put on board in the kettle, which had a tight cover. The
+Major's manner for a day or two had been rather moody, and when Prof.
+intimated to me that we would have a lively time before we saw another
+camp, I knew some difficult passage ahead was on his mind; some place
+which had given him trouble on the first trip.
+
+About five o'clock we were ready; everything was made snug and tight on
+the boats, nothing being left out of the cabins but a camp kettle in
+each standing-room for bailing, and we cast off. Each man had his
+life-preserver where he could get it quickly, and the Major put his on,
+for with only one arm he could not do this readily in case of necessity.
+The current was swift. We were carried rapidly down to where the gorge
+narrowed up with walls vertical on each side for a height of fifty to
+one hundred feet. We soon dashed through a small rough rapid. A splash
+of water over our bow dampened my clothes and made the air feel chilly.
+The canyon was growing dim with the evening light. High above our heads
+some lazy clouds were flecked with the sunset glow. Not far below the
+small rapid we saw before us a complicated situation at the prevailing
+stage of water, and immediately landed on the left, where there was
+footing to reconnoitre. A considerable fall was divided by a rocky
+island, a low mass that would be submerged with two or three feet more
+water, and the river plunging down on each side boiled against the
+cliffs. Between us and the island the stream was studded by immense
+boulders which had dropped from the cliffs and almost like pinnacles
+stood above the surface. One view was enough to show that on this stage
+of water we could not safely run either side of the cataract; indeed
+destruction would surely have rewarded any attempt. The right-hand
+channel from the foot of the island swept powerfully across to meet the
+left-hand one and together they boomed along the base of the left-hand
+cliffs before swinging sharply to the right with the trend of the chasm
+in that direction. There was no choice of a course. The only way was to
+manoeuvre between the great boulders and keep in the dividing line of
+the current till a landing could be effected on the head of the island
+between the two falls. The difficulty was to avoid being drawn to either
+side. Our boat went first and we succeeded, under the Major's quick eye
+and fine judgment, in easily following the proposed course till the
+_Dean_ began to bump on the rocks some twenty yards above the exposed
+part of the island. I tested the depth of water here with an oar as Jack
+pulled slowly along, the current being quite slack in the dividing line,
+and as soon as practicable we jumped overboard and guided our craft
+safely to the island. Prof. in the _Nell_ was equally precise, and as he
+came in we waded out to catch his boat; but the _Cañonita_ passed on the
+wrong side of one of the pinnacles and, caught in the left current, came
+near making a run of it down that side, which would have resulted
+disastrously. Luckily they were able to extricate themselves and Beaman
+steered in to us. Had the water been only high enough to prevent landing
+on this island we would have been in a bad trap, but had it been so high
+as to make navigation down the centre possible the rapid might perhaps
+have been run safely.
+
+We were now on the island, with darkness falling, and the problem was to
+get off. While Prof. and the Major went down to the foot to make a plan
+we sat in the diminishing light and waited. It was decided to pull the
+boats down the right-hand side of the island as far as the foot of the
+worst part of the right-hand rapid, and from there cut out into the tail
+of waves, pulling through as quickly as we could to avoid contact with
+the base of the left wall along which the current dashed. We must pull
+fast enough to get across in the very short time it would take the river
+to sweep us down to the crucial point. The gorge by this time was quite
+sombre; even the clouds above were losing their evening colour. We must
+act quickly. Our boat as usual made the first trial. As we shot out,
+Jack and I bent to our oars with every muscle we possessed, the boat
+headed slightly upstream, and in a few seconds we were flying along the
+base of the cliffs, and so close that our starboard oars had to be
+quickly unshipped to prevent their being broken. In a few seconds more
+we were able to get out into the middle, and then we halted in an eddy
+to wait for the other boats. They came on successfully and in the
+gloaming we continued down the canyon looking for a place to camp, our
+hearts much lightened with our triumph over the difficult rapid. Before
+long night was full upon us and our wet clothes made us shiver. About a
+mile below a warning roar dead ahead told us to make land at once, for
+it would be far from prudent to attack a rapid in the dark. Fortunately
+there was here room to camp on some rocks and sand on the right.
+Scarcely had we become settled than a tornado broke over the canyon and
+we were enveloped in a blinding whirl of rain and sand. Each man clung
+to his blankets to prevent their departure and waited for the wind to
+pass, which it did in less than ten minutes. The storm-clouds were
+shattered and up the gorge, directly east from our position, from behind
+a thousand needle-like spires that serrated the top of the cliffs, the
+moon like a globe of dazzling silver rolled up with serene majesty,
+flooding the canyon with a bright radiance. No moon-rise could have been
+more dramatic. The storm-clouds were edged with light and the wet cliffs
+sparkled and glittered as if set with jewels. Even the rapid below was
+resplendent and silvery, the leaping waves and the spray scintillating
+under the lustrous glare.
+
+Morning brought a continuation of the rain, which fell in a deluge,
+driving us to the shelter of a projecting ledge, from which
+comparatively dry retreat we watched the rain cascades that soon began
+their display. Everywhere they came plunging over the walls, all sizes,
+and varying their volume with every variation in the downpour. Some
+dropped a thousand feet to vanish in spray; others were broken into many
+falls. By half-past eight we were able to proceed, running the rapid
+without any trouble, but a wave drenched me so that all my efforts to
+keep out of the rain went for nothing. By ten o'clock we had run four
+more rapids, and arrived at the place the Major had named Millecrag
+Bend, from the multitude of ragged pinnacles into which the cliffs
+broke. On the left we camped to permit the Major and Prof. to make their
+prospective climb to the top. A large canyon entered from the left,
+terminating Cataract Canyon, which we credited with forty-one miles, and
+in which I counted sixty-two rapids and cataracts, enough to give any
+set of boatmen all the work they could desire. The Major and Prof.
+reached the summit at an altitude of fifteen hundred feet. They had a
+wide view over the unknown country, and saw mountains to the west with
+snow on their summits. Snow in the canyons would not have surprised us
+now, for the nights were cold and we had warmth only in the middle of
+the day. Near our camp some caves were discovered, twenty feet deep and
+nearly six feet in height, which had once been occupied by natives.
+Walls had been laid across the entrances, and inside were corncobs and
+other evidences usual in this region, now so well known. Pottery
+fragments were also abundant. Another thing we found in the caves and
+also in other places was a species of small scorpion. These venomous
+creatures were always ready to strike, and somehow one got into Andy's
+shoe, and when he put on the shoe he was bitten. No serious result
+seemed to follow, but his general health was not so good after this for
+a long time. He put tobacco on the wound and let it go. This was the
+second accident to a member of the party, which now had been out four
+months.
+
+[Illustration: Narrow Canyon.
+
+Photograph by Best Expedition, 1891.]
+
+The last day of September found us up before daylight, and as soon as
+breakfast was eaten, a small matter these days both in preparation and
+consumption, we pulled away, intending to reach the mouth of the Dirty
+Devil as soon as possible. The morning was decidedly autumnal, and when
+we arrived at a small rapid, where we had to get overboard to help the
+boats, nothing ever came harder than this cold bath, though it was
+confined to our legs. Presently we saw a clear little rivulet coming in
+on the left, and we ran up to that shore to examine it, hoping it was
+drinkable. Like the first party, we were on the lookout for better water
+to drink than the muddy Colorado. The rivulet proved to be sulphurous
+and also hot, the temperature being about 91 F. We could not drink it,
+but we warmed our feet by standing in the water. The walls of this new
+canyon at their highest were about thirteen hundred feet, and so close
+together and straight that the Major named it Narrow Canyon. Its length
+is about nine miles. Through half of the next rapid we made a let-down,
+running the remainder, and then, running two more below which were easy,
+we could see through to the end of the canyon, and the picture framed by
+the precipices was beautiful. The world seemed suddenly to open out
+before us, and in the middle of it, clear and strong against a sky of
+azure, accented by the daylight moon, stood the Unknown Mountains, weird
+and silent in their untrodden mystery. By this token we knew that the
+river of the Satanic name was near, and we had scarcely emerged from
+Narrow Canyon, and noted the low bluffs of homogeneous red sandstone
+which took the place of the high cliffs, when we perceived a sluggish
+stream about 150 feet wide flowing through the barren sandstone on our
+right. Landing on its west bank, we instantly agreed with Jack Sumner
+when on the first trip he had proclaimed it a "Dirty Devil." Muddy,
+alkaline, undrinkable, it slipped along between the low walls of smooth
+sandstone to add its volume to that of the Colorado. Near us were the
+remains of the Major's camp-fire of the other voyage, and there Steward
+found a jack-knife lost at that time. At the Major's request he gave it
+to him as a souvenir.
+
+Our rising had been so early and our progress from Millecrag Bend so
+easy that when our camp was established the hour was only nine o'clock,
+giving us still a whole day. The Major and Prof. started off on an old
+Indian trail to see if there was a way in to this place for horses, Cap.
+took observations for time, and the others occupied themselves in
+various ways, Andy counting the rations still left in our larder.
+
+That night around our camp-fire we felt especially contented, for
+Cataract and Narrow canyons were behind, and never would we be called
+upon to battle with their rapids again. The descent from the mouth of
+Grand River was 430 feet, most of it in the middle stretch of Cataract
+Canyon.
+
+[Illustration: The Mouth of Fremont River (The Dirty Devil River)
+
+Photograph by the Brown Expedition, 1889]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 16: The pencil sketches I made on this trip were taken to
+Washington, but I do not know what became of them.]
+
+[Footnote 17: As mentioned in a previous footnote, the name D.
+Julien--1836, was later found near this point and in two other places.
+All these inscriptions appear to be on the same side of the river, the
+east, and at accessible places.]
+
+[Footnote 18: The next party to pass through this canyon was the Brown
+Expedition, conducting a survey for the Denver, Colorado Canyon, and
+Pacific Railway in 1889. At the first rapid they lost a raft, with
+almost all their provisions, and they had much trouble. See _The Romance
+of the Colorado River_, Chapter xiv. Another expedition in 1891--the
+Best Expedition--was wrecked here.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+     The _Cañonita_ Left Behind--Shinumo Ruins--Troublesome Ledges
+     in the River--Alcoves and Amphitheatres--The Mouth of the San
+     Juan--Starvation Days and a Lookout for Rations--El Vado de
+     Los Padres--White Men Again--Given up for Lost--Navajo
+     Visitors--Peaks with a Great Echo--At the Mouth of the Paria.
+
+
+Having now accomplished a distance down this turbulent river of nearly
+six hundred miles, with a descent toward sea-level of 2645 feet, without
+a serious accident, we were all in a happy frame of mind,
+notwithstanding the exceedingly diminutive food supply that remained. We
+felt that we could overcome almost anything in the line of rapids the
+world might afford, and Steward declared our party was so efficient he
+would be willing to "run the Gates of Hell" with them! Barring an
+absence of heat Cataract Canyon had been quite a near approach to that
+unwelcome entrance, and the locality of the mouth of the Dirty Devil
+certainly resembled some of the more favoured portions of Satan's
+notorious realm. Circumstances would prohibit our lingering here, for
+our long stretch on short rations made the small amount we could allow
+ourselves at each meal seem almost like nothing at all, and we were
+desirous of reaching as soon as possible El Vado, something over a
+hundred miles below, where our pack-train was doubtless now waiting.
+
+The plan of leaving a boat at this place for a party to bring down,
+which should penetrate the unknown country the next year and then
+complete what we might now be compelled to slight, was carried out.
+The _Cañonita_ was chosen and the day after our arrival, Sunday,
+October 1st, we ran her down a short distance on the right, and there
+carried her back about two hundred feet to a low cliff and up thirty
+or forty feet above the prevailing stage of water, where we hid her
+under an enormous mass of rock which had so fallen from the top as to
+lodge against the wall, forming a perfect shelter somewhat longer than
+the boat. All of her cargo had been left at camp and we filled her
+cabins and standing-rooms with sand, also piling sand and stones all
+about her to prevent high water from carrying her off. When we were
+satisfied that we had done our best we turned away feeling as one
+might on leaving a friend, and hoping that she would be found intact
+the following year. As nine o'clock only had arrived, the Major and
+Jones then climbed out from this place, while Prof. with the _Nell_
+ran down about a mile and a half to the mouth of a gulch on the right
+where he and the Major had traced the old trail. The rest of us
+returned to camp. Prof. and Cap. climbed out, after following the
+trail up the gulch six miles, and they saw that it went toward the
+Unknown Mountains, which now lay very near us on the west. Steward got
+out by an attempt not so far up the canyon and reached an altitude of
+1950 feet, where he had a clear, full view of the mountains. With his
+glass he was able to study their formation and determined that lava
+from below had spread out between the sedimentary strata, forming what
+he called "blisters." He could see where one side of a blister had
+been eroded, showing the surrounding stratification.[19]
+
+When the Major and Jones came back we put the cargo of the _Cañonita_ on
+the _Dean_, and all of us embarked, seven in number, and ran down to
+where the _Nell_ was moored. Here we camped for the night. The crews
+were then rearranged, Beaman being assigned to my bow oars, Clem and
+Andy going in the _Nell_, while I was to sit on the middle cabin of the
+_Dean_ in front of the Major, where I could carry on my sketching. We
+were now a shaggy-looking lot, for our clothes had been almost worn off
+our bodies in the rapids. Our shoes, notwithstanding that the Major had
+brought us a fresh supply at Gunnison Crossing, were about gone, and we
+were tanned till we could hardly have been distinguished from the old
+Shinumos themselves; but we were clean. Steward was a great lover of
+Burns and could quote him by the page, though what he most liked to
+repeat just now was:
+
+    "O wad some Power the giftie gie us
+    To see oursels as others see us!"
+
+I think the _Address to the Deil_ would have been appropriate for this
+particular environment, but I do not remember that Steward quoted:
+
+    "Hear me, auld Hangie, for a wee,
+    An' let poor damned bodies be;
+    I'm sure sma' pleasure it can gie,
+                    E'en to the deil,
+    To skelp an' scaud poor dogs like me,
+                    An' hear us squeel!"
+
+The cargo of the _Cañonita_ was distributed among the cabins of the
+_Dean_ and the _Nell_, and Cap. was somewhat disturbed by having an
+addition to the bow compartment in the _Nell_. Each man had charge of a
+cabin and this was Cap.'s special pride. He daily packed it so
+methodically that it became a standing joke with us, and we often asked
+him whether he always placed that thermometer back of the fifth rib or
+in front of the third, or some such nonsensical question, which of
+course Cap. took in good part and only arranged his cabin still more
+carefully.
+
+The next morning, the 2d of October, at eight o'clock, we continued our
+voyage, now entering a new canyon, then called Mound, but it was
+afterwards consolidated with the portion below called Monument, and
+together they now stand as Glen Canyon. In about three and one half
+miles we ran several sharp little rapids, but they were not of much
+consequence, and we stopped to examine a house ruin we saw standing up
+boldly on a cliff on the left. It could be seen for a long distance in
+both directions, and correspondingly its inmates in the old days could
+see every approach. Doubtless the trail we had seen on the right had its
+exit on the other side near it. The walls, neatly built of thin
+sandstone slabs, still stood about fifteen feet high and fifteen inches
+thick. The dimensions on the ground were 12 × 22 feet outside. It had
+been of two or three stories, and exhibited considerable skill on the
+part of the builders, the corners being plumb and square. Under the
+brink of the cliff was a sort of gallery formed by the erosion of a soft
+shale between heavy sandstone beds, forming a floor and roof about eight
+or ten feet wide, separated by six or seven feet in vertical height. A
+wall had been carried along the outer edge, and the space thus made was
+divided by cross walls into a number of rooms. Potsherds and
+arrow-heads, mostly broken ones, were strewn everywhere. There were also
+numerous picture-writings, of which I made copies.
+
+As we pulled on and on the Major frequently recited selections from the
+poets, and one that he seemed to like very much, and said sometimes half
+in reverie, was Longfellow's:
+
+    "Often I think of the beautiful town
+        That is seated by the sea;
+      Often in thought go up and down
+      The pleasant streets of that dear old town,
+        And my youth comes back to me.
+      And a verse of a Lapland song
+        Is haunting my memory still:
+        'A boy's will is the wind's will,
+    And the thoughts of youth are long, long thoughts.'"
+
+He would repeat several times, with much feeling:
+
+        "A boy's will is the wind's will,
+    And the thoughts of youth are long, long thoughts."
+
+Another thing he enjoyed repeating was Whittier's _Skipper Ireson's
+Ride_:
+
+    "Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart,
+    Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart
+    By the women of Marblehead!"
+
+Towards evening we came to another Shinumo ruin, where we made camp,
+having run altogether sixteen miles, with ten rapids, all small, between
+walls of red, homogeneous sandstone, averaging about one thousand feet
+in height. The river, some three hundred and fifty feet wide, was low,
+causing many shoals, which formed the small rapids. We often had to wade
+alongside to lighten the boats, but otherwise these places were easy. A
+trifle more water would have done away with them, or at least would have
+enabled us to ignore them completely. The house ruin at our camp was
+very old and broken down and had dimensions of about 20 × 30 feet. Prof.
+climbed out to a point 1215 feet above the river, where he saw plainly
+the Unknown Mountains, Navajo Mountain, and a wide sweep of country
+formed largely of barren sandstone. Steward felt considerably under the
+weather and remained as quiet as possible.
+
+In the morning we were quickly on the water, pushing along under
+conditions similar to those of the previous day, making twenty-seven
+miles and passing eleven very small rapids, with a river four hundred
+feet wide and the same walls of homogeneous red sandstone about one
+thousand feet high. The cliffs in the bends were often slightly
+overhanging, that is, the brink was outside of a perpendicular line,
+but the opposite side would then generally be very much cut down,
+usually to irregular, rounded slopes of smooth rock. The vertical
+portions were unbroken by cracks or crevices or ledges, being extensive
+flat surfaces, beautifully stained by iron, till one could imagine all
+manner of tapestry effects. Along the river there were large patches of
+alluvial soil which might easily be irrigated, though it is probable
+that at certain periods they would be rapidly cut to pieces by high
+water.
+
+Prof. again climbed out at our noon camp, and saw little but naked
+orange sandstone in rounded hills, except the usual mountains. In the
+barren sandstone he found many pockets or pot-holes, a feature of this
+formation, often thirty or forty feet deep, and frequently containing
+water. Wherever we climbed out in this region we saw in the depressions
+flat beds of sand, surrounded by hundreds of small round balls of stone
+an inch or so in diameter, like marbles--concretions and hard fragments
+which had been driven round and round by the winds till they were quite
+true spheres.[20]
+
+The next day, October 4th, we ran into a stratum of sandstone shale,
+which at this low stage of water for about five miles gave us some
+trouble. Ledge after ledge stretched across the swift river, which at
+the same time spread to at least six hundred feet, sometimes one
+thousand. We were obliged to walk in the water alongside for great
+distances to lighten the boats and ease them over the ridges.
+Occasionally the rock bottom was as smooth as a ballroom floor; again it
+would be carved in the direction of the current into thousands of
+narrow, sharp, polished ridges, from three to twelve inches apart, upon
+which the boats pounded badly in spite of all exertions to prevent it.
+The water was alternately shallow and ten feet deep, giving us all we
+could do to protect the boats and at the same time avoid sudden duckings
+in deep water. With all our care the _Nell_ got a bad knock, and leaked
+so fast that one man continually bailing could barely keep the water
+out. We repaired her at dinner-time, and, the shales running up above
+the river, we escaped further annoyance from this cause. Even with this
+interference our progress was fairly good, and by camping-time we had
+made twenty-one miles.
+
+We had a rapid shallow river again the following day, October 5th, but
+the water was not so widely spread out and there were fewer delays. The
+walls were of orange sandstone, strangely cut up by narrow side canyons
+some not more than twenty feet wide and twisting back for a quarter of a
+mile where they expanded into huge amphitheatres, domed and cave-like.
+Alcoves filled with trees and shrubs also opened from the river, and
+numerous springs were noted along the cliffs. Twelve miles below our
+camp we passed a stream coming in on the left through a canyon about one
+thousand feet deep, similar to that of the Colorado. This was the San
+Juan, now shallow and some eight rods wide. We did not stop till noon
+when we were two miles below it near one of the amphitheatres or
+grottoes to which the first party had given the name of "Music Temple."
+The entrance was by a narrow gorge which after some distance widened at
+the bottom to about five hundred feet in diameter leaving the upper
+walls arching over till they formed a dome-shaped cavern about two
+hundred feet high with a narrow belt of sky visible above. In the
+farther end was a pool of clear water, while five or six green
+cottonwoods and some bushes marked the point of expansion. One side was
+covered with bright ferns, mosses, and honeysuckle. Every whisper or
+cough resounded. This was only one of a hundred such places but we had
+no time to examine them. On a smooth space of rock we found carved by
+themselves the names of Seneca Howland, O. G. Howland, and William Dunn,
+the three men of the first party who were killed by the Shewits in 1869.
+Prof. climbed up eight hundred feet and had a fine view of Navajo
+Mountain which was now very near. We then chiefly called it Mount
+Seneca Howland, applied by the Major in memory of that unfortunate
+person but later, the peak already having to some extent been known as
+Navajo Mountain, that name was finally adopted. No one had ever been to
+it, so far as we knew, and the Major was desirous of reaching the
+summit.
+
+[Illustration: Glen Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+Leaving the Music Temple, which seemed to us a sort of mausoleum to the
+three men who had marked it with their names, we soon arrived at a
+pretty rapid with a clear chute. It was not large but it was the only
+real one we had seen in this canyon and we dashed through it with
+pleasure. Just below we halted to look admiringly up at Navajo Mountain
+which now loomed beside us on the left to an altitude of 10,416 feet
+above sea level or more than 7100 feet above our position, as was later
+determined. The Major contemplated stopping long enough for a climb to
+the top but on appealing to Andy for information as to the state of the
+supplies he found we were near the last crust and he decided that we had
+better pull on as steadily as possible towards El Vado. We ran down a
+considerable distance through some shallows and camped on the left
+having accomplished about twenty miles in the day towards our goal. Here
+the remaining food was divided into two portions, one for supper, the
+other for breakfast in the morning. Though we were running so close to
+the starvation line we felt no great concern about it. We always had
+confidence in our ability somehow to get through with success. Andy,
+particularly, never failed in his optimism. Generally he took no
+interest in the nature of a rapid, lying half asleep while the others
+examined the place, and entirely willing to run anything or make a
+portage or even swim; he cared not. "Nothing ever happens to any outfit
+I belong to," he would declare shifting to an easier position, "Let her
+go!" and now so far as Andy's attitude was concerned we might have
+possessed unlimited rations. Jack lightened the situation yet more with
+his jolly songs and humorous expressions and no one viewing that camp
+would have thought the ten men had before them a possibility of several
+days without food, except what they might kill in the barren country,
+and perhaps a walk from El Vado over an unknown trail about one hundred
+miles out to Kanab. In the morning, Friday, October 6th, we got away as
+quickly as we could and pulled down the river hoping that El Vado was
+not far ahead and feeling somewhat as Escalante must have felt a century
+before when he was trying to find it. He had the advantage of having
+horses which could be eaten from time to time. Of course we knew from
+the position of the San Juan and of Navajo Mountain, that we could reach
+El Vado in at most two days, but the question was, "would we find any
+one there with rations?" The Major apparently was unconcerned. He told
+me a story about a farmer's son in his neighbourhood when himself a boy
+who had no shoes, no good clothes, no decent hat, but who went to the
+father and declared he wanted a "buzzum pin," and nothing but a buzzum
+pin would he have, though his parent called his attention to his lack of
+other necessaries, one after the other. "No Pa," the boy would repeat "I
+want a buzzum pin."
+
+[Illustration: Looking down upon Glen Canyon.
+
+Cut through homogeneous sandstone.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Colo. Riv. Exp.]
+
+As we rowed along the Major sang softly another of his favourites:
+
+    "Flow gently, sweet Afton! among thy green braes,
+    Flow gently, I'll sing thee a song in thy praise;
+    My Mary's asleep by thy murmuring stream--
+    Flow gently, sweet Afton, disturb not her dream."
+
+The almost vertical walls ran from two hundred to one thousand feet in
+height, cut by many very narrow side canyons opening into large glens or
+alcoves. On and on we steadily pulled till noon, making 13-1/2 miles
+when we stopped on the right on a sandstone ledge against a high cliff.
+Andy had a few scraps left, among them a bit of bacon which Jack
+enterprisingly used for baiting a hook and soon drew out several small
+fish, so that after all we had quite a dinner. The walls became more
+broken as we went on apparently with numerous opportunities for entrance
+from the back country, though the sandstone even where not very steep
+was so smooth that descent over it would be difficult. We had gone about
+three miles after dinner when we saw a burned place in the brush on the
+right where there was quite a large piece of bottom land. We thought
+this might be some signal for us but we found there only the tracks of
+two men and horses all well shod proving that they were not natives.
+About three miles farther down we caught a glimpse of a stick with a
+white rag dangling from it stuck out from the right bank, and at the
+same moment heard a shot. On landing and mounting the bank we found
+Captain Pardyn Dodds and two prospectors, George Riley and John
+Bonnemort, encamped beside a large pile of rations. Dodds was one of
+the men with Old Jacob who had tried desperately to reach the mouth of
+the Dirty Devil with our supplies. He thought he had arrived at a point
+where he could see it and went back to inform Jacob when they received
+an order from the Major to come to this place, El Vado de los Padres, by
+September 25th, and here he was. Jacob had come with him but had gone on
+to Fort Defiance, the Navajo Agency, to settle some Indian business,
+leaving him to guard the rations. Having left Kanab early in September
+they had no late news. They had become discouraged by our non-appearance
+and concluded that we would never be heard from again. Consequently they
+had planned to cache the rations and leave for the settlement on Sunday.
+That night Andy was able to summon us to "go fur" the first "square"
+meal we had eaten for nearly a month. There was among the supplies some
+plug tobacco which we cut up, all but Steward, Prof., and Cap. who did
+not smoke, and rolled in cigarettes with thick yellow paper, the only
+kind we had, having learned to make them Spanish fashion from the
+Hamblins, and we smoked around the fire talking to Dodds and the
+prospectors over the general news. They told us they had found small
+quantities of gold along the river. A great many papers, magazines, and
+letters for everybody were in the packs supplying us with reading matter
+enough for weeks. Though the papers were of ancient dates they were new
+to us.
+
+The whole next day was consumed in preparing maps, notes, specimens,
+fossils, etc., to be sent by pack-train to the settlement of Kanab one
+hundred miles off whither the Major himself had decided to start with
+the outfit the next morning and go from there to Salt Lake City about
+400 miles north. None of us had a chance to write even a line to
+expectant relatives far away and we were naturally disappointed till
+Prof. persuaded the Major to hold over till Tuesday which he willingly
+did when he realised the situation. We wrote late by the light of a
+diminutive fire, wood being scarce. He then left us on October 10th with
+Jack, Captain Dodds, and the miners who had waited only to learn
+something about the river above as a place for prospecting. The trail up
+over the barren sandstone was so steep and smooth that two of the
+pack-animals lost their footing and rolled back to the bottom but
+received no injury except scraping the skin off their knees.
+
+Not the least welcome articles among the supplies were a pair of good
+heavy shoes and a pair of strong overalls, which the foresight of the
+Major had secured for each one of us, our clothing, as before
+mentioned, having been completely worn out. My watch, which I had
+carried all the way in a little rubber pocket sewed to my shirt near the
+neck, where it seldom got wet enough to stop it, though occasionally it
+refused to go till I punched it up with a large pin kept for the
+purpose, which my wicked companions called my "starting bar," at last
+had stopped permanently, and I sent it out by Jack for repairs. After
+they had gone we settled down again to our accustomed labours. We were
+to run down thirty-five miles farther to the mouth of the Paria, whence
+there was another known trail to the settlement, and cache the boats.
+The pack-train was to come back to us there with additional supplies and
+horses and take us out to Kanab, where we were to make headquarters for
+our winter explorations in the practically unknown Grand Canyon region
+as well as in that to the eastward. During this interval we expected to
+discover some point between the Paria and Diamond Creek where rations
+could be brought in to us while working through the Grand Canyon the
+next season. We did not then know that the winter is the safest and best
+time for making the passage through that wonderful gorge.[21]
+
+Our appetites were now enormous, and as we could eat all we wanted, the
+supplies diminished in an astonishing way, but as we were soon to
+receive more we did not care. Every man braced up; all but Steward, who
+felt quite sick. Jones began to feel trouble brewing in the leg which he
+had hurt at the Junction; Andy showed the effects of the scorpion bite
+by becoming thin and pale, thinner than our previous lack of rations
+justified; Cap., who had been shot in the Civil War through and through
+near the heart, now felt the effects of the long exposure; and neither
+Clem nor Beaman considered their health perfect. Altogether, however, we
+had come through very well. Our worst work was over for this year, and
+the maladies portending seemed not dangerous. Prof., desiring to get
+some notes from up the river, went on the 11th, with Cap., Beaman, and
+Clem, back six miles in the _Dean_ to the foot of some rapid water they
+could not pass. Arriving there about half-past twelve, they spent all
+afternoon going up numerous gulches, trying to find a way out. As there
+was a large area of bottom land, with old camp-fires and much broken
+pottery, they were sure there was a path, but it was late before they
+discovered a place where modern natives had piled brush and stones to
+make a horse trail, and another where the old Shinumos for fifty feet
+had cut steps in the smooth rock. The party followed the Shinumo trail,
+finding the steps in places almost worn out by time, in others still
+quite good and large enough to get the toe of a shoe in. By the time
+they came to the top it was too late for observations, and they returned
+to the river for camp, making the same climb by the steps the next day
+and securing the observations. They got back to our Camp 79 late in the
+afternoon. Meanwhile Steward's illness had increased, and I spent much
+of the night trying to relieve his pain. The air was cold and he was
+most uncomfortable, the only shelter being a wickiup of boughs we had
+built to protect him from the sun. We had opium pills in our medicine
+chest, and I had the little flask of brandy referred to. With several of
+the pills and my brandy, which I at last persuaded him to take as
+medicine (he despised alcoholic drinks), his suffering was somewhat
+relieved, and he was able to lie still on his bed of willows. During the
+next day his condition was no better, and Prof. returning, was much
+distressed by it. By drawing further on the medicine chest, which
+contained numerous remedies, he was able to relieve him a little more.
+The exposure had brought on a trouble of the back which had originally
+developed during the campaigns of the Civil War.
+
+[Illustration: Tom.
+
+A Typical Navajo.
+
+Photograph by Wittick.
+
+Tom became educated and no longer looked like an Indian.]
+
+Before leaving this point Prof. wanted some observations from the
+heights, and he and Cap. tried to climb the near-by cliffs, but failed.
+They then took a hammer and chisel, and by cutting "holds" in the
+sandstone after the manner of the old Shinumos, they got up 850 feet and
+secured the bearings Prof. desired. The following day they went out on
+the trail toward Kanab five miles, trying to find another point of exit
+to the summit, but did not succeed. While they were gone we heard a
+sudden shout, and saw an Indian standing on the rocks not far away. We
+beckoned for him to come, and thereupon he fell back to another, and
+together they approached. We saw by their dress, so different from the
+Ute (red turbans, loose unbleached cotton shirts, native woven sashes at
+the waist, wide unbleached cotton trousers reaching to a little below
+the knee and there slashed up on the outer side for seven or eight
+inches, bright woven garters twisted around their red buckskin leggins
+below the knee, and red moccasins with turned up soles and silver
+buttons), that they were Navajos.[22] They indicated that they were
+father and son, the father announcing himself in a lordly way as "Agua
+Grande." He was over six feet tall and apparently sixty or seventy years
+old. The son was a fine young lad of about fifteen. Their bearing was
+cordial, yet proud and dignified. They had not long been with us when
+Prof. came in, and during the next hour seven more Navajos arrived, all
+dressed very much as the first ones were. They expressed great
+friendliness by embracing us after their custom and delivering long
+speeches, of which we understood not a word. One had a short black
+mustache which came straight out sidewise and then turned at right
+angles down past the corners of his mouth. I never had heard of an
+Indian with a mustache before. They had no visible firearms, being armed
+with strong bows and cougar-skin quivers full of iron-headed arrows.[23]
+Old Agua Grande became much interested in our sick man, and made signs
+by placing two spread fingers of one hand inverted upon one finger held
+horizontally of the other hand, and moving them north-westerly to
+indicate that he ought to ride out to the Mormon settlement, whither
+they were bound, and that they would take him along. As the chief had
+exhibited a document, signed by the agent at Fort Defiance, to the
+effect that he and his band were peaceable and going on a trading
+expedition to the Mormon settlements, we felt certain they would take
+good care of the invalid, but Steward said he preferred to remain with
+us.
+
+We now had no further work for this immediate locality, and concluded to
+run down a mile or so to separate ourselves from the Navajos, one having
+disclosed a tendency to surreptitiously appropriate small articles
+belonging to us. A bed was made on the middle deck of one of the boats
+for Steward, and when all was ready we carried him down to it. The
+Navajos ranged themselves along the bank to see us off, and Clem, with
+his customary urbanity, went down the line all smiles, shaking each one
+cordially by the hand, and requesting him to "Give my love to all the
+folks at home," and "Remember me, please, to Eliza Jane," and similar
+expressions. The Navajos did not understand the words, but being
+themselves great jokers they saw that it was fun, and they all laughed,
+making remarks which doubtless were of the same kind. Just below was El
+Vado de los Padres by which these Navajos had now come across. It was
+also sometimes called the Ute Ford. The necessary route was indicated by
+a line of small piles of stones showing above water. It was not an easy
+crossing, feasible only at low water, and quite impossible for waggons,
+even had there been a road to it. A shoal was followed up the middle of
+the river half a mile with deep channels cutting through it, reached
+from the south over a steep slope of bare sandstone and from the north
+through a very narrow, small canyon, not over ten feet wide. Escalante
+in 1776, after the failure of his attempt to reach California, had great
+difficulty in finding the place, which for centuries has been known to
+all the tribes of the region. About three miles below our last camp we
+landed on the left on a very pretty piece of bottom land, inaccessible
+except by river, being bounded behind by a high, vertical, unscalable
+wall. Here we made Camp 80, with plenty of food, water, and wood, and
+all were comfortable by a fine fire; all but Steward, who, feeling very
+sick, was lying on the bed we had prepared for him. He had another bad
+night, but after this his condition seemed gradually to improve.
+
+[Illustration: Glen Canyon.
+
+Sentinel Rock--about 300 Feet High.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+Prof.'s favourite quotation now was Charles Fenno Hoffman's poem:
+
+    "We were not many--we who stood
+      Before the iron sleet that day;
+    Yet many a gallant spirit would
+    Give half his years if but he could
+      Have been with us at Monterey."
+
+In the morning he went with Jones across the river and climbed out while
+the rest of us did nothing but lie around camp doing what was possible
+to make Steward comfortable. It was Sunday as well and whenever
+practicable we rested the whole or part of that day. Monday we started
+late and ran only a short distance before dinner which we ate on the
+right. Steward still was unable to sit up and he was carried on the
+middle deck of the _Nell_ where he had a rope to cling to so that he
+should not roll off into the water when the boat lurched. Toward evening
+we camped at the head of a small rapid near a fine little stream coming
+in from the left which we named Navajo Creek. The river was about four
+hundred feet wide with walls on each side of four hundred feet in
+height. The next morning Prof., Cap. and I climbed out for bearings
+reaching an altitude a mile or so back from the river of 875 feet.
+Everywhere we discovered broken pottery, fragments of arrow-heads, and
+other evidences of former Shinumo occupancy. Even granting only a few
+persons at each possible locality, the canyons of the Colorado and Green
+must have been the former home of a rather large population. In the
+afternoon we ran the little rapid and kept on for about six miles making
+twenty in all from El Vado, when we camped on a heavy talus on the left.
+The following morning, October 18th, we had not gone more than a mile
+when we came to a singular freak of erosion, a lone sandstone pinnacle
+on the right, three hundred or four hundred feet high, the river running
+on one side and a beautiful creek eight feet wide on the other. We named
+these Sentinel Rock and Sentinel Creek and camped there for Beaman to
+get some photographs. Prof. and I went up the creek and tried to climb
+out for observations, but though we made three separate attempts we had
+to give it up. Steward grew so much better that he was able to walk a
+little, but now Jones began to feel more pain in his injured leg. On
+Thursday, the 19th, we made nearly seven miles between walls about eight
+hundred feet high and one quarter of a mile apart, so nearly vertical
+that we could not get out.
+
+The next day we ran six miles more with walls one thousand feet high,
+camping at a place where there was a wide bottom with many signs of old
+native camps, probably Navajo. In the morning Prof., Cap., and I climbed
+a steep slope of bright orange sand a little below our camp, a rather
+hard task as the sand was loose, causing us to slip backward at every
+step. After twelve hundred or fifteen hundred feet of this kind of
+climbing we reached the base of three rocky peaks several hundred feet
+higher. We had considerable difficulty in surmounting one of these,
+being forced around to the opposite side, where there was a sheer
+descent from our position of some fifteen hundred feet, with sharp black
+rocks at the bottom where any one slipping would fall. There were some
+narrow transverse crevices in the rock by means of which we got up. One
+man, having been pushed aloft from the solid ledge by the two below,
+would lie back against the slope, brace himself with one heel in a
+transverse fissure, and lower the free foot as a handhold for the
+others to mount by. The next trouble was a crevice wide enough for us
+to pass through to the top, but holding exactly midway a large rock
+lodged in such a manner that we could not crawl under and yet seeming
+in danger of rolling down if we went over it. It was precarious not only
+for the man ahead who tried to pass but for those below waiting for
+results, but it was more firmly wedged than it appeared to be and each
+one in turn climbed over it. Emerging from this crack we were on the
+summit 2190 feet above the river and 5360 above the sea, with standing
+room no more than six or eight feet square. The view was superb. The
+peaks formed the northern end of a long line of cliffs running back to
+the south at the end of Glen Canyon, and we looked out across a
+wonderful region, part of that on the south being the "Painted Desert,"
+so called by Ives. Mountains solid and solitary rose up here and there
+and line upon line of strangely coloured cliffs broke across the wide
+area, while from our feet stretching off to the south-west like a great
+dark dragon extending miles into the blue was the deep gorge of Marble
+Canyon, its tributary chasms appearing like mighty sprawling legs. Far
+away west were the San Francisco Mountains, and the Kaibab, while behind
+we saw Navajo Mountain and others.
+
+This peak, or cluster of peaks, of course had never been named, had
+never been climbed before, but they soon named themselves. For amusement
+I tried to shoot into the river with Cap.'s 44 Remington revolver. As I
+pulled the trigger the noise was absolutely staggering. The violent
+report was followed by dead silence. While we were remarking the
+intensity of the crash, from far away on some distant cliffs northward
+the sound waves were hurled back to us with a rattle like that of
+musketry. We tried again with the same result, the interval between the
+great roar and the echo being twenty-four seconds by the watch. We could
+call the place nothing but Echo Peaks, and since then the name has been
+applied also to the line of cliffs breaking to the south. Our descent
+was easy and we reached camp without any incident except the loss of my
+sheath knife.
+
+Nobody did anything the next day, for it was Sunday, so when Monday
+morning came we were eager to be off for the mouth of the Paria, which
+we had seen from the top of Echo Peaks. Two or three miles down we
+reached it; a small river coming through a great canyon on the right.
+The cliffs of Glen Canyon broke back south-westerly and south-easterly
+in a V form with the point at the foot of Glen Canyon, leaving a wide
+platform of different rock rising gently from under them and mounting
+steadily toward the south. Into the middle of this the river immediately
+slashed a narrow gorge very much as a staircase might be cut through a
+floor, beginning the next canyon of the series, called Marble, through
+which we would not descend till the following year. We went into camp on
+the left bank of the Paria and the right of the Colorado, Camp 86, in
+the tall willows. A rough scow lay there, which the Major had built the
+year before when on his way from Kanab to the Moki Towns, for there is
+no ford.
+
+We were to wait here for our pack-train which the Major, on arriving at
+Kanab, was to start back with rations and some extra horses. Our
+altitude was 3170 feet, showing a total descent for the season of 2905
+feet, 913 feet from Gunnison Crossing. Our work on the water for the
+present was now over; we would pursue it with mule and pack instead of
+with boats. As the 23d of October had arrived we were glad to avoid
+daily saturation.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 19: These blisters were later called laccolites by G. K.
+Gilbert after his careful study of the locality. See his _Geology of the
+Henry Mountains_, published by the government.]
+
+[Footnote 20: The illustration on page 43 of _The Romance of the
+Colorado_ well shows the character of the Glen Canyon country, and that
+on page 63 the nature of the pot-holes.]
+
+[Footnote 21: We learned later that while we were working through
+Cataract Canyon, Lieutenant George M. Wheeler, U. S. Engineers, was
+coming up from Fort Mohave. After great labour he reached the mouth of
+Diamond Creek, See _The Romance of the Colorado_, Chapter XII.]
+
+[Footnote 22: For further description of the Navajo costume, see _The
+North Americans of Yesterday_, by F. S. Dellenbaugh, pp. 148, 150.]
+
+[Footnote 23: Like all the tribes of the region of that time, the
+Navajos considered the Mormons a different people from the Americans.
+They had been at war with the Mormons, from whom they stole horses and
+cattle, and there had been some bloodshed. Old Jacob had induced them to
+make peace, and this party now on its way to trade was the first to try
+the experiment. Vanquished by our troops, a few years before, the
+Navajos were very poor and anxious to acquire live stock and firearms,
+for which they had blankets and other articles of their own make to
+trade.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+     More Navajos Arrive with Old Jacob--The Lost Pack-train and a
+     Famished Guide--From Boat to Broncho--On to Kanab--Winter
+     Arrives--Wolf Neighbours too Intimate--Preparing for Geodetic
+     Work--Over the Kaibab to Eight-mile Spring--A Frontier
+     Town--Camp below Kanab--A Mormon Christmas Dance.
+
+
+At the mouth of the Paria we established ourselves for a stay of several
+days. Not only did we have the pack-train to wait for, but there were
+maps to finish, boats to cache, and all manner of things to attend to
+before we could leave for the winter. Steward recovered so that he could
+slowly walk around, but to balance this Jones developed inflammatory
+rheumatism in both knees, but especially in the one which had been
+injured by the fall at the Junction. Though he was perfectly cheerful
+about it, he suffered excruciating pain, and was unable to move from the
+bed of willows which we made for him. The medicine chest was drawn on
+again, and we hoped that the attack would not last long. Andy remained
+wan and thin, but he insisted on sticking to his work. So liberally had
+we used our rations that we were nearing the end, and we began to look
+hopefully in the direction from which we expected the pack-train to
+arrive. Four days passed and still there was no sign of it. We had to
+put ourselves on half-rations once more, and Prof. declared that if the
+train did not soon arrive either he or I, being the only entirely well
+members of the party, would have to walk out to Kanab and obtain relief.
+None of us knew anything about the trail. On the 26th Prof. and I
+climbed the cliffs back of camp to a height of two thousand feet, and
+had a remarkable view similar to that from Echo Peaks. On Saturday,
+October 28th, in the morning we were surprised to hear from the opposite
+or south side of the river an Indian yell, and looking across we
+perceived what appeared to be three natives, with horses, standing on
+the edge of the canyon wall, here very low. We prepared one of the boats
+to cross and find out what was wanted, when a fourth figure joined the
+group, and in good English came the words, "G-o-o-d m-o-r-n-i-n-g," long
+drawn out. On landing we were met by a slow-moving, very quiet
+individual, who said he was Jacob Hamblin. His voice was so low, his
+manner so simple, his clothing so usual, that I could hardly believe
+that this was Utah's famous Indian-fighter and manager. With him were
+three other white men, Isaac Haight, George Adair, Joe Mangum, and nine
+Navajos, all on their way to the Mormon settlements. They desired to be
+put across the river, and we willingly offered the services of ourselves
+and our boats. Some of the Navajos had never before seen so large a
+stream, and were free to express their surprise. We took on board Jacob
+and one or two others, and after landing them made several trips with
+both boats to ferry the rest over, including all their saddles and
+baggage. The Navajos were rather afraid of the boats, which to them
+probably looked small and wobbly, but they all got on board with much
+hilarity, except one who preferred to swim. He struck boldly out with a
+sort of dog-paddle stroke. Having no confidence in his swimming ability,
+we followed closely. The water was cold; the distance greater than the
+Navajo had imagined. Before he was one third of the way over he
+consented to be pulled into our boat and finish the passage that way.
+The horses were towed over, swimming behind the boats, a rope being held
+by a man sitting in the stern. There was a rapid not far below, and we
+feared if driven in to swim loose they might be drawn into it. One horse
+refused to swim or even to try, and made repeated efforts to plunge his
+head under, giving us a lot of trouble, but by holding his head close to
+the boat we towed him across in spite of his opposition. Without the
+boat he would surely have gone down the river. When everybody and
+everything were safely across the hour was so late that Jacob concluded
+to camp with us for the night.[24]
+
+The Navajos were found to be a very jolly set of fellows, ready to take
+or give any amount of chaff, and perfectly honest. They were taking
+blankets of their manufacture to trade for horses and sheep. Their
+spirits ran high, they sang their wild songs for us, and we had the
+liveliest evening we had seen in many a month. Finally we joined in a
+circle with them, dancing and singing around the smouldering fire, while
+the chief Konéco, a noble-looking fellow, sitting at one side, with a
+patriarchal expression, monotonously drummed an accompaniment with a
+willow root on the bottom of one of the camp-kettles. When any of us
+would stumble on a stick they were all convulsed with laughter. The
+blankets they had were beautiful, and Jacob possessed one valued at $40,
+which had taken seventy days to make. After the Navajos had gone to rest
+we listened to some Mormon songs by Jacob's party. They left us the next
+morning, Sunday, October 29th, Prof. obtaining from Jacob some red
+Mexican beans to eke out our supplies; also a description of the trail.
+I traded a cap I happened to have to one of the Navajos for his feather
+plume, and a pair of shoes to one of the white men for some Mishongnuvi
+moccasins. Monday we took the _Dean_ across the river, and some distance
+down we hauled her by means of ropes up high above the water under a
+large rock, where we concealed her well. Then we made five caches near
+camp of goods not needed till next year, covering our traces by fires
+and other devices. Jones was so much improved that he managed to hobble
+about on a pair of crutches I had made for him out of strong willow
+sticks, and we felt much encouraged as to his ability to stand riding
+when the time came to start for Kanab.
+
+On Tuesday we built a shelter back of camp for the _Nell_ and housed
+her there. The next day was the first of November and we thought surely
+the pack-train would come, but the sun went down behind the cliffs and
+no one arrived. Prof. could not understand what the trouble was, but he
+went on with his observations. The next morning, as we were about to eat
+our bean breakfast beside the fire, we were astonished by the extremely
+cautious appearance through the willows, without a word of announcement,
+of a single, ragged, woebegone, silent old man on as skinny and
+tottering a pony as ever I saw. The old man was apparently much
+surprised to find himself here, and with the exclamation, "My God! I
+have found you!" he dropped to the ground. When at last he spoke he said
+his name was Mangum of Kanab, and that he had been employed to guide our
+pack-train, of which Riley, one of the prospectors we had met at El
+Vado, was leader. "Well, where is the train?" we asked, for if he were
+all that remained of it we wanted to know it soon. "Several miles back
+on the trail," he said. Not having eaten a mouthful since the morning
+before it was no wonder he was weak and silent. We gave him the best
+breakfast we could command from our meagre stock and then like a spectre
+he vanished on his scrawny steed up the Paria Canyon. All the day long
+we watched and waited for his triumphal return with the longed-for
+supplies at his back, but the sun departed without his approach and the
+twilight died into that mystery which leaves the world formless against
+the night. And still we had faith in the stranger's story. Early the
+next morning Prof., Clem, and I started on his track thinking we would
+soon meet the train. It led us up the valley of the Paria, between the
+great cliffs about three miles, and then we had another surprise, for it
+swung sharply to the right and climbed a steep sandy slope towards the
+only apparent place where the two-thousand-foot cliffs could possibly be
+scaled with horses. We saw that he had followed a very old Indian trail.
+When we had mounted to the base of the vertical rocks we travelled
+zig-zagging back and forth across the face of the precipice till
+presently the trail passed through a notch out upon the plateau. From an
+eminence we now scanned the whole visible area without discovering
+anything that apparently had not been there for several thousand years.
+Save the coming and going tracks of our strange visitor there was
+nothing to show that any living animal had trod this place in centuries.
+We could see to where Prof. and I previously climbed to this same
+plateau, and to-day was like yesterday and yesterday like the year
+before last. Time and the years were as little grains of drifting sand.
+
+Leaving Clem as a sentinel on our observation point Prof. followed the
+out track and told me to follow the in till three o'clock. It was now
+high noon. I walked on and on through an arid, wonderful maze of sand,
+rocks, and cacti, feeling that the old horseman was no more than a
+phantom, when in half an hour I almost fell upon our lost pack-train
+meandering slowly and silently through a depression. I fired our signal
+shots and Prof. soon joined us. The situation was precarious. The
+animals were nearly dead from thirst, one had been abandoned, and Riley
+was in a state of pent-up rage that was dangerous for the spectre guide,
+who had nearly been the destruction of the whole outfit, for he did not
+know the trail and was himself lost. Of course he blamed Riley--it was
+his only defence. Riley broke loose in a string of fiery oaths,
+declaring he would shoot "the old fool," then and there. But receiving
+no encouragement from Prof. or me he didn't. There was a third member of
+the party, Joe Hamblin, a son of Jacob, a very sturdy young fellow. He
+said afterwards that he thought often that Riley would "sure let
+daylight through the old man." Our next care was to successfully
+manoeuvre the pack-animals down the difficult trail across the face of
+the cliff, which had not seen a horse for many a year and probably never
+had been traversed by animals with packs on their backs. We had to watch
+that they did not crowd each other off, but with all our exertions one
+fell and rolled down a few feet. He was not injured and we continued the
+descent, finally reaching the bottom without so much as a scratch of any
+consequence. There, at the Paria, the horses enjoyed the first full
+drink for several days and we followed it down to camp. Riley had
+started from Kanab October 23d and had been twelve days making a journey
+that required at most only four or five by the regular trail. Mangum had
+not known the way, had led toward El Vado, and his finding the Indian
+trail to the mouth of the Paria was an accident.
+
+Provisions were now plenty again, and by the light of a big fire we
+overhauled the mail, finding letters, newspapers and magazines enough to
+satisfy any party. Word was received from the Major to move to a place
+called House Rock Spring, and Prof. said we would leave Camp 86 on
+November 5th, which gave us a day intervening in which to pack up. About
+noon of this packing day we were not surprised when two horsemen, Haight
+and Riggs, galloped into camp at full speed leading a lightly laden
+pack-mule. They had come through in two and one half days, at top speed,
+by direction of Jacob, who on reaching Kanab with the Navajos learned
+that our pack-train had left long before, and he had seen nothing of
+it. On the pack-mule were fifty pounds of flour and several rolls of
+butter; the first time we had seen any of this latter article since the
+final breakfast at Field's on May 22d. They were greatly relieved to
+know that the train was found and that all was well. They brought news
+of the burning of Chicago about a month before. In the evening Isaac
+Haight favoured us with some Mormon songs and recited examples of the
+marvellous curative effects of the Mormon "laying on of hands." Heavy
+clouds had settled along the face of the cliffs and the air grew wintry.
+We felt the chill keenly, as we were not clad for cold weather. In the
+morning snow began to drop gently out of the leaden sky and continued
+all day, preventing any one from starting. Soon the cliffs and Echo
+Peaks were white and we knew that now autumn was gone. Toward evening
+the sun flared across the rocky landscape, turning everything to gold,
+and we believed the next day would be fair. We were not disappointed.
+Monday the 6th of November came sharp and cold. Haight, Riggs, Mangum,
+and Joe Hamblin left early and we got under way as soon as we could.
+With two very sick men and a new method of travel it was not easy. We
+had to learn the art of packing on mules and horses from Riley, who was
+an expert in this line and who could "sling the diamond hitch" with
+great skill. He was just as handy with a lasso and seldom missed if he
+wished to catch an animal, but Prof. did not approve of the lasso
+method, for it makes stock wild and unmanageable. His way was the quiet
+one and he was right, for we soon had the entire herd so that there was
+no rumpus at starting-time. With a free use of the lasso preparations to
+start partake of the activity of a tornado.
+
+Steward by this time was able to walk slowly. Andy was well enough to
+travel on his feet, but Jones could not move at all without crutches. We
+did not have extra horses for all to ride, so Steward and Andy changed
+off, while the rest of us had to walk. Jones we lifted as gently as
+possible, though it was pain even to be touched in his condition, upon
+Riley's special horse called Doc, a well-trained, docile animal, who
+walked off with him. It was after noon before the start was
+accomplished, and meanwhile I went back on the incoming trail of the
+lost pack-train to the foot of the steep precipice for Riley's canteen,
+which had been forgotten there, and when I returned all were gone but
+Steward, Clem, and Beaman, who had remained behind to round up a young
+steer which had been driven in with the train for us to convert into
+beef at a convenient opportunity. As the advance party travelled very
+slowly we soon caught them, the steer being gentle as a kitten. The
+trail followed south along the foot of the cliffs which emerged from
+Paria Canyon, and to which the Major had given the name of Vermilion on
+account of their rich red colour. We wound in and out of deep alcoves,
+around the heads of impassable lateral canyons running to the Colorado,
+and past enormous rocks balanced in every conceivable position on
+extremely slender pedestals. After about eight miles we arrived at a
+diminutive spring, which gave enough water for Andy to make bread and
+coffee with, but none for the stock. There we camped. A few armfuls of
+scraggy sage-brush furnished wood for a fire, but it was not enough to
+make our invalids comfortable, and the night was cold and raw. We did
+all we could for them and they did not grumble.
+
+In the morning a pair of bronchos--that is, recently broken wild
+horses--made the camp lively for a time, but they were subdued and the
+caravan again got under way. Our next camp was to be Jacob's Pools, so
+called from the fact that Jacob was the first white man to camp there.
+We had gone only a mile or so when we crossed in a small canyon a little
+stream already enjoying two names, Clear and Spring (now called Badger)
+Creek, and a little farther on another called Soap Creek, still holding
+that name.[25] When first travellers enter a country they naturally
+bestow names on important objects, and two or three parties of white men
+who had passed this way had named these two creeks. After this we had no
+more water, and we pushed slowly ahead, looking for the Pools. Snow
+began to fall again in widely scattered, reluctant flakes, but melted on
+touching the ground. Late in the afternoon the trail turned the corner
+of the cliffs, which here broke to the west, and we saw a wide, desolate
+open plain stretching away to the foot of a distant table-land, which we
+knew to be the Kaibab Plateau or Buckskin Mountain. None of the party
+had been over the trail before, but it was easy to follow, especially
+for a man of Riley's experience. It was an old Navajo trail, and was
+here fairly well worn. The sun went down as we plodded on, the light
+faded from the west, and still we saw no Jacob's Pools. The air was
+biting, and with our thin, worn garments we felt it keenly and wished
+for a fire. At last just as the darkness began to thicken a patch of
+reeds on the right between some low hills was discovered, where it
+seemed there might be water, and we could not well go farther. The
+ground was moist, and by digging a hole we secured red, muddy liquid
+enough for Andy to make a little bread and a cup apiece of very poor
+coffee. The men and animals came straggling in out of the darkness. We
+gathered a lot of sage-brush and made a fire, and as soon as Jones came
+we lifted him off and put him as near the warmth as possible, for he was
+chilled through. There was no water for the stock, but the grass was wet
+and they did not suffer. Everything was damp and uncomfortable, and the
+fire was too small to dry anything out, so all turned in to the limited
+blankets and passed a cold, half-sleepless, uncomfortable night.
+
+Morning was a relief, though the thermometer stood at 11 F. There was
+water enough in the holes for breakfast, and as soon as this meal was
+over the pack-train was on the move towards Jacob's Pools, which we
+found not two miles farther on. There were two of them, each seven or
+eight feet long, supplied by fine clear water oozing out of a hill-side.
+The lower one we turned over to the animals, reserving the upper for
+ourselves. We approached the plateau all day, and late in the afternoon
+we were within three or four miles of it, when the right-hand cliffs
+turned sharply to the north in a line parallel with the plateau, forming
+a long narrow valley. Cedars and piñons now grew about us, so that we
+were assured of a good fire. About sunset we passed two large boulders
+which had fallen together, forming a rude shelter, under which Riggs or
+some one else had slept, and then had jocosely printed above with
+charcoal the words "Rock House Hotel." Afterward this had served as
+identification, and Jacob and the others had spoken of "House Rock"
+Spring and House Rock Valley. We called it the same, and finally it went
+on the maps and is now permanent. A few yards beyond the House Rock the
+trail led into a gulch, at the head of which was a good spring. Plenty
+of cedars and piñons grew about, and we soon had a fire that compensated
+for the meagre ones of the preceding nights. The sick men became warm
+and dry, and we all felt much better. The whole outfit halted two days,
+and on the second the poor little steer, gazing sadly at us, was shot
+and cut up. In an hour the quarters were swinging from a tree and some
+of the beef was in the pan. Necessity is a sauce that makes every grist
+palatable. We were hungry, and nothing could have tasted better than
+that fresh beefsteak. The entrails and refuse were left on the ground in
+the neighbouring gulley where we had killed the steer, and next morning
+the place was about cleaned up by the lurking wolves.
+
+Prof. decided to go on across the Kaibab to Kanab with the two very sick
+men, and leave Cap., Clem, Andy, and me here at House Rock Spring until
+the plan for the winter's campaign had been better formulated. Steward
+concluded that his condition was too precarious to risk further
+exposure, and said he would now leave the expedition permanently, which
+we learned with deep regret, but it was plainly imperative. Jones
+thought that a week or two of warmth and rest, accompanied by a change
+of diet, would make him whole again and enable him to stay till the end
+of our special task. On Saturday, November 11th, the party started, with
+the invalids riding the gentlest and easiest horses, though Steward
+found it less painful at times to walk. I accompanied them to the summit
+of the Kaibab to bring back one of the horses we called Thunderbolt, on
+which Jones was to be carried to the top and there change to Doc. After
+I left them I halted many times to look out into the wonderful land to
+the west and north. When I got back to the spring, our Camp 3 of the
+land operations, we immediately set up a stout 6 by 8 tent that was in
+the outfit brought from Kanab, and it made a very snug sleeping-place
+for the four of us. Around the fire we rolled big stones for seats, and
+soon had the gulch in a homelike condition. There was an abundance of
+dead, fat piñon, which burned like a candle, and we could easily extend
+our reading into the evenings.
+
+From all around us there arose the frequent bay and bark of the wolves.
+They were of different kinds, numerous and rather bold. At night they
+came in and cleared up what was left of the entrails of the steer, also
+securing a fine, large piece of beef which Cap. had hung in a tree, but
+not high enough to escape their efforts. We took turns bringing the four
+horses left with us to water, and in that way kept ourselves informed
+about them. During these trips, especially in the late afternoon, the
+wolves were apt to trot along near by, and on one occasion Clem was
+obliged to drive one out of the trail with stones, not having his rifle.
+One morning, as I was riding along not far from camp, a huge whitish
+fellow followed behind like a dog about twenty yards back, licking his
+chaps. At first I thought he might be the dog of some Indian camped
+near, but remembering that there were none in the valley, and also that
+an Indian dog, or any strange dog, would have run from me, I saw that he
+was a hungry wolf unused to man. I had no rifle with me, but I took a
+walk over the same ground next morning with my Winchester, hoping to see
+my acquaintance again, but he discreetly kept out of sight. We had
+little now to occupy us except to examine the locality, chop wood for
+our fire, and read over and over the newspapers and magazines. The
+nights were very cold, the spring always freezing over, but the days
+were delightful. The beef had to be jerked to preserve it. We cut it up
+into thin long strips, which we strung through the ends on long withes,
+these in turn being hung on a framework that left the strips swinging
+within two or three feet of a slow fire. One hour's neglect of this
+tempting array would have seen it vanish to the four winds, so we kept a
+constant watch day and night, taking turns through the dark hours.
+Every article which had grease or leather about it had to be carefully
+put away to prevent its disappearance. Riley had lost his spurs on the
+way out from this cause, the leather on them making sweet morsels for
+the watchers.
+
+Cap. concluded to profit by this appetite, and in an adjoining gulch he
+built a trap between two rocks, in which he set his Remington
+six-shooter, so that a wolf picking up a scrap of beef would pull the
+trigger by a string and receive the ball in his head. That night during
+my watch over the beef I roasted a piece on a stick for a lunch, and as
+the savory odour drifted off on the crisp winter air howl after howl of
+ravenous desire rang out from many directions, followed by the bang of
+the revolver in the trap. Cap. went over, but found no game, though
+later he often came back with a fine large specimen, bearing a perfect
+coat of fur, which Cap. always removed by the firelight at once. About
+every night except Sunday, when Cap. refused to set the trap--for he
+never did any work on that day that was not absolutely necessary--there
+was a fatal shot, and he accumulated a lot of excellent large skins,
+which he tacked on trees to preserve them. He thought he had put them up
+securely high, but one morning every skin had disappeared. The wolf
+relatives had carried them away to the last shred.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+From Havasupai Point, South Rim, Showing Inner Gorge.
+
+From a sketch in colour by F. S. Dellenbaugh, 1907.]
+
+The Kaibab was too far away for us to go there to hunt deer, and there
+were none around the spring, though one night at supper-time, the
+western sky being a broad sweep of deep orange, we saw a large wild
+animal of some sort on the crest of the hill silhouetted against the
+colour. I started for it with my rifle, but of course it did not wait;
+no animal ever does if he can help it, unless he is carnivorous and
+famished. The weather remained generally fair, though one day we had a
+wild gale that nearly relieved us of the tent in the midst of thick
+flurries of snow. We often climbed among the cliffs, and everywhere we
+found picture-writings, poles laid up, stepping-stones, fragments of
+pottery, arrowheads, and other evidences of former occupation. The poles
+and stones may have been placed by the Pai Utes as well as by the old
+Shinumos, who once were numerous over all this country. Cap. was by no
+means well. An extreme nervousness connected with the old gunshot wound
+developed, and he said he felt sure he could not continue the work in
+the field during the winter, much less go through the Grand Canyon with
+us the next year. Clem also felt under the weather, and besides was
+growing homesick. He confided to me one day that he also had concluded
+not to remain with us. As there was little the matter with him I
+undertook to argue him out of his determination not to go through the
+Grand Canyon, pointing out the disappointment he would feel when we had
+accomplished the passage and he realised that he might as well have come
+along. This produced some impression, but I was uncertain as to its
+lasting result.
+
+By November 17th we began with confidence to look for some one to come
+over the mountains from Kanab, and just after sunset we heard Riley's
+long shrill "ee--ii--oooooooo," which he could deliver upon the air in
+such a fashion that it carried for miles. Presently Prof. and he rode
+into our camp with fresh supplies and a great bundle of mail that
+included papers giving the details of the burning of Chicago. Prof. with
+Cap. then reconnoitred the neighbourhood, and on the 21st he returned to
+Kanab, leaving us as before, except that Riley remained two days longer.
+The Major had not yet arrived at Kanab from Salt Lake and our winter
+work could not begin till he came. The days rolled by with occasional
+rain and snow and we began to grow impatient with our inaction,
+especially when November passed away. The second day of December was
+fading when we distinguished in the distance the familiar Riley yell,
+and in a little while he came into view with welcome news. We were to
+move at once to a spring eight miles from Kanab. He also brought some
+apples, native raisins and a large canteen full of fresh wine from
+"Dixie" as the country along the Virgin was called. These luxuries
+together with a number of letters from home made that night one of the
+most cheerful we had known for a long time. Monday morning, December 4th
+we left House Rock Spring behind with our pack-train, followed the trail
+across the open valley, climbed two thousand feet to the top of the
+Kaibab, and were soon traversing the forest on its broad summit. Riley
+having been over the trail now several times we went ahead steadily, and
+about sunset arrived at the farther side of a narrow longitudinal
+depression of the top which Cap. immediately put down in his notes as
+Summit Valley, a name that holds to-day. There we threw off our packs
+and made camp for the night. Though there was no water the ground was
+covered by a thin layer of snow, that made the long bunch grass
+palatable to the horses and for ourselves we had sufficient water in two
+small kegs and several canteens. A bright fire blazed cheerfully, the
+dense cedars broke the wind, and everybody felt that it was a fine camp.
+The others spent the evening playing euchre by firelight, but I
+preferred to read till bedtime.
+
+The next morning, after crossing some rough gulches, we came to the
+western edge of the great plateau, and emerging from the forest of pine
+and cedar we saw again the magnificent, kaleidoscopic, cliff country
+lying to the north. First about twenty miles away was a line of low
+chocolate-coloured cliffs, then a few miles back of this the splendid
+line of the Vermilion Cliffs, the same which began at the mouth of Glen
+Canyon and which we had skirted to House Rock Spring. From there the
+line continued northward till it passed around the north end of the
+Kaibab, when it struck southwesterly far to our left, where it turned
+back to the north again, forming one of the longest and finest cliff
+ranges anywhere to be seen. Above them and some miles still farther
+back, rising higher, was a line of greyish cliffs following the trend of
+the Vermilion, and still above these was the broken meandering face of
+the Pink Cliffs, frosted with snow, whose crest marks the southeastern
+limit of Fremont's "Great Basin," the end of the High Plateaus, and tops
+the country at an altitude of some 11,000 feet above sea-level. A more
+extraordinary, bewildering landscape, both as to form and colour, could
+hardly be found in all the world. Winding our way down to the barren
+valley, in itself more a high plateau than a valley, we travelled the
+rest of the day in the direction of the great cliffs. The sun was just
+gone when we reached the first low line, and passing through a gap
+turned into a side gulch thickly studded with cedars, where we saw
+before us two white-covered waggons, two or three camp-fires blazing,
+and friends. We heard a hearty voice cry, "Tirtaan Aigles dis wai!" and
+we sprang from our horses to grasp Jack's welcoming hand and greet all
+the others, some of whom were new acquaintances. The fragrance of coffee
+and frying bacon filled the sharp air, while from the summits of the
+surrounding cliffs the hungry chorus of yelping wolves sent up their
+wail of disappointment.
+
+In an alcove a large tent had been put up, which the Major's family was
+occupying, for Mrs. Powell and her baby daughter had come from Salt Lake
+with him, arriving a few days before. The daughter was but three months
+old and was happy in a big clothes-basket for a cradle. Mrs. Thompson,
+Prof.'s wife, and sister of the Major, had also come from Salt Lake and
+another large tent sheltered them, while still another of equal size,
+not yet erected, was designed for the men. It was a specially
+interesting camp to us who had come over from House Rock for it was
+novel to see so many people around. The Major himself was absent at
+Kanab. Before the camp was asleep the hour was late, and so soundly did
+every one rest that the sneaking wolves without the least molestation
+carried off two large sacks of the jerked beef from near our heads,
+where we had put it against a huge rock thinking they would not come so
+close; but as they had pulled a ham the night before from under the head
+of Captain Dodds where he had placed it for safety, we ought to have
+been more sensible. Two or three nights later, as I was sleeping in a
+special bed one of the men then absent had made by a big rock some yards
+from the main camp, I was awakened by a wolf crunching bones by the fire
+not eight feet from my head. I wanted to shoot the impertinent wretch,
+but his form was indistinct and my rifle lying by my side had to be
+trained his way. This took some time, as I had to move cautiously, and
+in the midst of my effort my elbow slipped. Like a shadow he flitted
+into the deeper gloom and I went to sleep again. I did not want to
+shoot without certainty, though some nights later I did shoot with
+Riley's huge double-barrelled shotgun loaded with buckshot straight into
+our mess kit, not killing the wolf that was there, but putting holes in
+numerous tin plates through which bean soup delighted to percolate, so
+that I never heard the last of this midnight effort of mine to diminish
+the wolf family.
+
+The day following our arrival the Major came from Kanab and the plans
+for our winter's campaign were put in operation. A base line for our
+geographic work was necessary and this was to run south from Kanab, so
+Prof. on December 7th, with Mrs. Thompson, Cap., Clem, Andy, Jones (who
+had recovered his health), and one of the new men named MacEntee, left
+us with loaded waggons to establish another camp nearer to the scene of
+this work. Another member of the party was Fuzz, Mrs. Thompson's dog, an
+intelligent Dandie Dinmont. As I was much interested to see Kanab, of
+which so much had been said, and as it was now nearly seven months since
+I had seen an occupied house, I decided to take a Sunday ride in that
+direction. On the 17th, about noon, I put a saddle on a white mule which
+Jack had named Nigger and was soon on my way. Emerging from the
+Chocolate Cliffs the road led along the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs,
+crossing long ridges covered with cedars and piñons with a vast view to
+the Kaibab on the south and east, and soon joining a road that led from
+a canyon to eastward where there was a very small settlement called
+Johnson's, and from two or three houses which had been built where the
+El Vado trail crossed the Paria River. Nigger went along very well and I
+was in Kanab by three o'clock. The village, which had been started only
+a year or two, was laid out in the characteristic Mormon style with wide
+streets and regular lots fenced by wattling willows between stakes.
+Irrigating ditches ran down each side of every street and from them the
+water, derived from a creek that came down a canyon back of the town,
+could be led into any of the lots, each of which was about one quarter
+of an acre; that is, there were four lots to a block. Fruit trees, shade
+trees, and vines had been planted and were already beginning to promise
+near results, while corn, potatoes, etc., gave fine crops. The original
+place of settlement was a square formed by one-story log houses on three
+sides and a stockade on the fourth. This was called the fort and was a
+place of refuge, though the danger from Navajo attack seemed to be over
+and that from any assault by the Pai Utes certainly was past. One corner
+of the fort was made by the walls of the schoolhouse, which was at the
+same time meeting-house and ball-room. Altogether there were about 100
+families in the village. The houses that had been built outside the fort
+were quite substantially constructed, some of adobe or sun-dried brick.
+The entire settlement had a thrifty air, as is the case with the
+Mormons. Not a grog-shop, or gambling saloon, or dance-hall was to be
+seen; quite in contrast with the usual disgraceful accompaniments of the
+ordinary frontier towns. A perfectly orderly government existed, headed
+by a bishop appointed by the church authorities in Salt Lake, the then
+incumbent of this office being an excellent man, Bishop Stewart. I rode
+to the fort, where I found Clem and Beaman domiciled with their
+photographic outfit, with a swarm of children peeping through every
+chink and crevice of the logs to get a view of the "Gentiles," a kind of
+animal they had seldom seen. Every one was cordial. Beaman even offered
+me a drink made with sugar-water and photographic alcohol, but it did
+not appeal to my taste. It was after sunset when I started Nigger
+towards Eight Mile Spring and I enjoyed the ride in the edge of night
+with not a living thing, besides Nigger (and Nigger was a mule), to
+disturb my reveries.
+
+I had as yet seen none of the natives of the locality. They were now
+very friendly and considered harmless, thanks to Jacob's wise
+management. The only Indians the settlers dreaded were some renegades, a
+band of Utes and Navajos, collected by a bold and skillful chief named
+Patnish, whose "country" was south of the Colorado around Navajo
+Mountain. He was reputed to be highly dangerous, and the Kanab people
+were constantly prepared against his unwelcome visits. He had several
+handsome stalwart sons, who dressed in white and who generally
+accompanied him. Though Patnish was so much feared, I do not remember to
+have heard that he committed any depredations after this time. There had
+been much trouble with the Navajos, but Jacob, growing tired of the
+constant warfare, had resolved to go to them and see if he could not
+change the state of affairs. When he had guided the Major to the Moki
+Towns and Fort Defiance the year before (1870), about six thousand
+Navajos were assembled at the Agency. The chiefs were invited to meet in
+council on the 2d of November, and all the principal chiefs but one and
+all subchiefs but two were there. The Major led the way by introducing
+Jacob and speaking in highly complimentary terms of the Mormons; and
+Jacob then gave a long talk in his low-voiced way, illustrating the
+great evils of such warfare as had existed, and closed by saying:
+
+     "What shall I tell my people the 'Mormons' when I return home?
+     That we may expect to live in peace, live as friends, and
+     trade with one another? Or shall we look for you to come
+     prowling around our weak settlements, like wolves in the
+     night? I hope we may live in peace in time to come. I have now
+     grey hairs on my head, and from my boyhood I have been on the
+     frontiers doing all I could to preserve peace between white
+     men and Indians. I despise this killing, this shedding of
+     blood. I hope you will stop this and come and visit and trade
+     with our people. We would like to hear what you have got to
+     say before we go home."
+
+Barbenceta, the principal chief, slowly approached as Jacob ended, and
+putting his arms around him said: "My friend and brother, I will do all
+that I can to bring about what you have advised. We will not give all
+our answer now. Many of the Navajos are here. We will talk to them
+to-night and will see you on your way home." Several days later Jacob
+met him and the chiefs who had been absent; he said they would all
+really like to see peace with the Mormons carried out, and continued:
+
+     "We have some bad men among us, but if some do wrong, the wise
+     ones must not act foolishly, like children, but let it be
+     settled according to the spirit of your talk at Fort Defiance.
+     Here is Hastele. I wish you would take a good look at him, so
+     you will not be mistaken in the man. He never lies or steals.
+     He is a truthful man; we wish all difficult matters settled
+     before him. He lives on the frontier nearest to the river; you
+     can find him by inquiry. We hope we may be able to eat at one
+     table, warm by one fire, smoke one pipe, and sleep under one
+     blanket."
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+From South Rim near Bright Angel Creek.]
+
+Jacob proceeded towards home, taking a Moki, named Tuba, and his wife
+back with him, so that they might see the Mormon country. Arriving at
+the crossing of the Colorado Tuba was sad. He said his people had once
+lived on the other side, and their fathers had told them they never
+again would go west of the river to live. "I am now going on a visit to
+see my friends. I have worshipped the Father of us all in the way you
+believe to be right; now I wish you would do as the Hopees think is
+right before we cross." Jacob assented, and Tuba, he said,
+
+     "then took his medicine bag from under his shirt and offered
+     me a little of its contents. I offered my left hand to take
+     it; he requested me to take it with my right. He then knelt
+     with his face to the east, and asked the Great Father of us
+     all to preserve us in crossing the river. He said that he and
+     his wife had left many friends at home, and if they never
+     lived to return their friends would weep much. He prayed for
+     pity upon his friends the Mormons, that none of them might
+     drown in crossing; and that all the animals we had with us
+     might be spared, for we needed them all, and to preserve unto
+     us all our food and clothing, that we need not suffer hunger
+     nor cold on our journey. He then arose to his feet. We
+     scattered the ingredients from the medicine bag into the air,
+     on to the land, and into the water of the river."
+
+When they were all safely over Tuba gave thanks that his prayer had been
+answered.[26]
+
+The last white men to be killed by the Navajos in the Kanab region were
+Dr. Whitmore and his herder at Pipe Springs, twenty miles west, five
+years before in the winter of 1865-66. The raiders were pursued by a
+strong party, and some of them, turning down the Kanab Canyon, perhaps
+thinking the river could be crossed there, were surprised and fired on
+at dawn. Some escaped, though wounded. Jacob kept a close watch on all
+the passes, and especially at El Vado. Several raiders were intercepted
+and shot. In 1869 a raiding band successfully drove off twelve hundred
+head of horses and cattle from northern settlements, and the winter of
+1869-70 was one of the worst, requiring Jacob's presence in the field
+almost constantly. He was accompanied by friendly Pai Utes, who hated
+the Navajos. One Navajo was shot in a band who had stolen cattle, but
+the others were allowed to leave on giving up the stock. The shot did
+not kill the Navajo, and they followed to see what became of him. He was
+carried along by his friends to where another raiding party was
+encamped. The Pai Utes then killed two of this party, scalping one, but
+refraining from taking the scalp of the other because he had sandy hair
+and looked too much like a white man. Later three more Navajos were
+killed in a fight, but the rest escaped with ten horses. Jacob grew
+heartily sick of this kind of work, and made the resolve to appeal to
+the Navajos, with the result stated. He also visited the Red Lake Utes
+to the north, and all the Indians along the Sevier. Beginning with the
+band of Navajos under Agua Grande, which we had met at El Vado, they
+came north in numerous parties with perfect confidence that the Mormons
+would receive them peacefully. But they continued to despise the Pai
+Utes, considering them beneath notice.
+
+In September of the year 1870 the Major, by Brigham Young's advice, had
+engaged Jacob to go with him to Mt. Trumbull in the Uinkaret region
+adjoining the Shewits country. Jacob, wishing to see these Indians
+himself, was very willing to go. They made a camp by a spring, and
+finding some natives near, Jacob asked them to bring in some of the
+party who had taken part in the killing of the Howlands and Dunn the
+year before. Twelve or fifteen finally came, and they had a talk.
+
+     "I commenced [said Jacob] by explaining to the Indians
+     Professor Powell's business. I endeavoured to get them to
+     understand that he did not visit their country for any purpose
+     that would work evil to them, that he was not hunting gold or
+     silver or other metals; that he would be along the river next
+     season with a party of men, and if they found any of them away
+     from the river in the hills, they must be their friends and
+     show them places where there was water if necessary."
+
+They replied that friends of theirs from across the river had declared
+the men were miners and advised killing them, for if they found mines it
+would bring great evil among them. The men were followed and killed
+while asleep. They declared that had they been correctly informed about
+the men they would not have killed them. Kapurats ("No-arm," meaning the
+Major), they said, could travel and sleep in their country unmolested
+and they would show him and his men the watering-places.[27]
+
+On December 19th we moved our camp from Eight Mile Spring to a place
+below the gap in the Chocolate Cliffs south of Kanab and not far below
+the Utah-Arizona boundary; the 37th parallel. Bonnemort and I remained
+behind to gather up the last articles and it was dark when we reached
+the new ground. Our large tent was pitched in the creek bottom with the
+others not far off, making quite a settlement. The weather was rainy and
+cold, but a conical sheet-iron stove heated the tent well and there we
+had dry comfortable evenings, some of the men singing, some writing
+letters or plotting notes, others reading and still others perhaps
+playing a game. Bonnemort was something of a singer and was specially
+fond of _Beautiful Isle of the Sea_, but Jack still maintained his
+complete supremacy as a tenor. His repertory always increased and he was
+ever ready to entertain us. One of his selections I remember was the
+ballad:
+
+    "I wandered by the brookside,
+      I wandered by the mill;
+    I could not hear the brook flow,
+      The noisy wheel was still,
+    There was no burr of grasshopper
+      No chirp of any bird,
+    But the beating of my own heart
+      Was all the sound I heard."
+
+Mrs. Thompson had a sweet voice and knew a lot of songs, which were
+frequently heard issuing from her tent, and this, with the presence of
+Mrs. Powell and the baby, added to the locality a pleasant homelike air.
+Both Mrs. Thompson and Mrs. Powell had been familiar with camp life,
+Mrs. Powell having spent a winter, 1868-69, with the Major in Middle
+Park, Colorado, near the camp of Chief Douglas, the father of our friend
+Douglas Boy.
+
+Andy cooked all the meals on a fire out of doors, and they were no
+longer served in our "go fur it boys" canyon style, but a large canvas,
+showing by its colour the effects of exposure, was elegantly spread on
+the ground and around its edges the tin plates, cups, etc., were
+arranged, with the beanpot and other provender in the middle. This
+method continued henceforth. The company would sit around on the ground,
+each in whatever position was comfortable. Liberal portions of bread and
+sorghum molasses formed the dessert, and after a while so indispensable
+did the sorghum grow that we dubbed it the "staff of life." It was easy
+to get, quantities being produced in "Dixie." Kanab besides being
+favoured with two mails a week had a telegraph line connecting with the
+settlements of the Virgin region and with Salt Lake, and we now felt
+that once more we had a grip on the world.
+
+On the 22d of December the Major, accompanied by Captain Dodds, Riley,
+and one of the Kanab men, John Stewart, a son of the bishop, started for
+the Kaibab to find a way to get rations to the Colorado next year near
+the mouth of the Little Colorado. The weather now was rather stormy but
+Prof. continued his observations as well as he could, and parties were
+sent out in a number of directions to place flags and monuments for the
+geodetic work. The base line was to be measured south from near Kanab
+for about ten miles. Christmas day came with rain and small prospect of
+special enjoyment, and we all kept the shelter of the tent after hunting
+up the horses in mud ankle-deep. But our dinner was a royal feast, for
+Mrs. Thompson herself made a huge plum-pudding and Prof. supplied butter
+and milk from Kanab, making this feature of the holiday an immense
+success. In the evening a number of us rode up to the settlement to
+witness a dance that had been announced to take place in the
+schoolhouse, tabernacle, or town hall--the stone building in the corner
+of the fort which answered all these functions. The room was about 15 by
+30 feet and was lighted by three candles, a kerosene lamp, and a blazing
+fire of pitch pine. Two violins were in lively operation, one being
+played by Lyman Hamblin, a son of Old Jacob, and there was a refreshing
+air of decorous gaiety about the whole assemblage. Dancing is a regular
+amusement among the Mormons and is encouraged by the authorities as a
+harmless and beneficial recreation. At that time the dances were always
+opened with prayer. Two sets could occupy the floor at one time and to
+even things up, and prevent any one being left out, each man on entering
+was given a number, the numbers being called in rotation. None of our
+party joined as we were such strangers, but we were made welcome in
+every respect. It was ten o'clock before we left, and the way being dim
+and muddy, midnight was on before we threw off saddles at our camp.
+
+The next morning work was begun on the base line, but for some days the
+weather was so bad that little was accomplished. The year 1871 ended in
+this way and we hoped the new one would be more propitious.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 24: Five years later Jacob came near being drowned in crossing
+here. Lorenzo W. Roundy was lost, as well as two waggons loaded with
+supplies. The scow they had tried to use tilted, throwing everything
+into the fierce torrent.]
+
+[Footnote 25: It was in the rapid in Marble Canyon near the mouth of the
+canyon of this creek that Frank M. Brown was drowned in July, 1889.]
+
+[Footnote 26: _Jacob Hamblin_, a Narrative, etc. Faith-promoting
+Series--Juvenile Instructor Office, Salt Lake City--1881.]
+
+[Footnote 27: In 1864 the danger from the Pai Utes, who had not been
+well treated, increased till Jacob had to take the matter in hand and
+made a visit to the place where they were gathering for attack. He was
+asked how many men he wanted to go with him, and he answered, "One, and
+no arms; not even a knife in sight."]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+     Reconnoitring and Triangulating--A Pai Ute New Year's
+     Dance--The Major Goes to Salt Lake--Snowy Days on the
+     Kaibab--At Pipe Spring--Gold Hunters to the Colorado--Visits
+     to the Uinkaret Country--Craters and Lava--Finding the
+     Hurricane Ledge--An Interview with a Cougar--Back to Kanab.
+
+
+New-year's day, 1872, passed with nothing more eventful than the return
+of John Stewart in advance of the Major with the news that they had
+succeeded in reaching the Colorado at the foot of Kanab Canyon. They had
+given up the Kaibab direction because of snow which interfered with
+their advance. He also said that Riley had found gold at the mouth of
+the Kanab. The telegraph operator was so deeply impressed with this
+statement that it was telegraphed as an item of news to Salt Lake. Work
+on the base line went on daily by our topographical staff, but presently
+it was turned over to a special gang under Captain Dodds, so that the
+rest of us might be freed to carry on the triangulation. On Monday the
+15th, Prof., Jones, Mac, and I started with some pack animals on a ten
+days' reconnaissance trip over the Kaibab, first going to Kanab for some
+supplies and taking dinner with Jacob at the house of his wife Louisa.
+According to the Mormon custom, though it was not universal, Jacob had
+several wives, I do not know how many. I met two, and he was besides
+that "sealed" to one or two Pai Ute women. Sister Louisa was the one I
+came to know best and she was a good woman. We had an excellent dinner
+with rich cream for the coffee which was an unusual treat. In all Mormon
+settlements the domestic animals were incorporated at once and they
+received special care; butter, milk, and cheese were consequently
+abundant; but in a "Gentile" frontier town all milk, if procurable at
+all, was drawn from a sealed tin. The same was true of vegetables. The
+empty tin was the chief decoration of such advance settlements, and with
+the entire absence of any attempt at arrangement, at order, or to start
+fruit or shade trees, or do any other sensible thing, the "Gentile"
+frontier town was a ghastly hodge-podge of shacks in the midst of a sea
+of refuse. As pioneers the Mormons were superior to any class I have
+ever come in contact with, their idea being home-making and not skimming
+the cream off the country with a six-shooter and a whiskey bottle.
+Jacob's home was simple but it was comfortable. He was a poor man for he
+did his work for the people with very slight compensation.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+From Part Way down South Side above Bright Angel Creek.]
+
+From Jacob's we proceeded to our old camp ground at Eight-Mile Spring
+and there spent the night. Prof. had forgotten his sextant and rode back
+to our main camp for it. We continued in the morning without him to a
+place farther east called Navajo Well, a deep spring in a sort of
+natural hole, somewhat aided by native hands, in the midst of some
+sloping, barren rocks, the last spot where one would look for water. A
+large flat stone covered the top, the water being dipped out at one side
+where there was a depression leading down to it. A careless man, or one
+not familiar with the country, might ride within a few yards of this
+spring without noticing its existence. Prof. came along towards night
+and the next day we went on eastward to the top of the Kaibab Plateau
+and there put up a geodetic monument. Here we made a dry camp having
+water for ourselves in a keg and some canteens, while the animals got
+along very well as there was a little snow on the ground. Proceeding
+from this place eastward we came to the edge of the plateau opposite
+the largest of a series of four or five peculiar red sandstone peaks.
+The Mormons had explored a waggon road across at this place and the
+grades were easy. We followed the road and reached House Rock Valley
+about ten miles north of House Rock Spring where we went to get water
+and camp. We had started late and by the time we got down into the
+valley darkness had fallen but a bright moon compensated for the absence
+of daylight, enabling us to see plainly our landmarks. We jogged along
+toward the spring and I sang _Oh the Lone Starry Hours, Give Me Love_,
+when I was suddenly interrupted by old Thunderbolt's pack loosening.
+Thunderbolt was a horse that waited for such an event with remarkable
+docility and when it arrived he made the best of the opportunity to get
+even with us for drawing the lash-rope so tight. Before I could dismount
+and lay hands on him the pack slipped back over his rump which was the
+signal he watched for. Joyously flinging his heels in the moonlit air,
+jumping high off the ground the next instant, and then darting off into
+the misty night with a clatter and a whirl he spread the contents of
+that pack to all points of the compass. This revenge adequately
+accomplished we were permitted to catch him. A long search was necessary
+before we had gathered up all the things and replaced the pack on the
+now meek and patient Thunderbolt, and half-past eight by the watch
+arrived as we got to water and supper.
+
+We put up another "station" back of House Rock Spring and spent a day
+reconnoitring. On Sunday, January 21st, we went to Red Cliff and made a
+camp under some cedars, as we wished to put a station on the highest
+peak. The camp was a dry one, but we had the usual supply of water in
+the keg and canteens, and as the temperature was very low we did not get
+thirsty. There was an abundance of wood for the camp, but Mac and I
+concluded we wanted more warmth and light, so we set fire to two large
+cedars that stood alone, and they made a superb illumination, burning
+all night. In the morning we got to the top of the cliff, and built a
+monument, with a high pole and flag, to which to "sight" from other
+geodetic points, while Prof. took observations for time and latitude.
+When our work was finished we went back to House Rock Spring, arriving
+just before sunset. In the morning Jones and I went across and climbed
+the Kaibab, intending to put up a monument there, but we could find no
+proper site and returned to camp. Prof. and Mac had been off in another
+direction, but they got in just before supper-time. We had not
+finished this meal when, night having come on, we heard through the
+darkness sounds of some one approaching, and thirteen Navajos one after
+the other came into the light of our fire, with their greeting of "Bueno
+heh!" and camped just below us. Some were mounted, some were on foot.
+The chief was Ashtishkal, whom we had met before at the Crossing of the
+Fathers (El Vado). They were all friendly, and did not intrude upon us.
+They were on their way north to trade with the Mormons, having come
+across at the Paria. The night was very cold, and a heavy, dry snow
+began to fall, so that in the morning when we arose we could see but a
+short distance. The Navajos about sunrise stood silently in a circle
+till at a signal they all sat down and began singing, continuing for
+several minutes a low musical refrain, and then all rose to their feet
+again. They left us early, with friendly demonstrations, and went on
+their way towards Kanab, while we moved to another spring in a gulch
+farther up the valley, where we made a tent out of a pair of blankets to
+keep off the snow. During the stormy night our animals started to leave
+us, travelling before the wind, but we suspected their intention and got
+out and headed them back, much to their disgust, no doubt. Thursday,
+January 25th, came bright and clear, but still extremely cold. Prof.
+with Mac started across the Kaibab by the trail, while Jones and I went
+farther north by the waggon road referred to, camping near the station
+we had made on the way out. The next morning we did some work there, and
+then went on to the Navajo Well, reaching it at sunset, where we watered
+our stock and continued by moonlight through a piercing wind to
+Eight-Mile Spring, which enabled us to reach our main camp in time for
+dinner on Saturday the 27th. Prof. got back the evening before at 7.30,
+having made another station on the Kaibab on the way over and travelled
+twenty-five miles.
+
+About a mile from Kanab the Kaibab band of Pai Utes were encamped, and
+we had a good opportunity to visit them and study their ways.[28] The
+Major was specially interested and made voluminous notes. They came to
+the village and our camp a great deal. While they were dirty, they were
+not more dishonest than white men, so far as I could learn. Their
+wickiups, about seven feet high, were merely a lot of cedar boughs, set
+around a three-quarter circle, forming a conical shelter, the opening
+towards the south. In front they had their fire, with a mealing-stone or
+two, and round about were their conical and other baskets, used for
+collecting grass seeds, piñon nuts, and similar vegetable food, which in
+addition to rabbits formed their principal subsistence. At certain times
+they all went to the Kaibab deer-hunting. Their guns, where they had
+any, were of the old muzzle-loading type, with outside hammers to fire
+the caps. Many still used the bow-and-arrow, and some knew how to make
+stone arrow-heads. We learned the process, which is not difficult. Their
+clothing was, to some extent, deerskin, but mainly old clothes obtained
+from the whites. They made a very warm robe out of rabbit skins, twisted
+into a long rope and then sewed side to side into the desired size and
+shape. But when we traded for one of these as a curiosity we placed it
+beside a large ant hill for some days before bringing it into camp. They
+obtained fire by the use of matches when they could get them, but
+otherwise they used the single stick or "palm" drill. We went to the
+camp one moonlight night, January 6th, to see a sort of New-Year's
+dance. They had stripped a cedar tree of all branches but a small tuft
+at the top, and around this the whole band formed a large circle,
+dancing and singing. The dancing was the usual hippity-hop or "lope"
+sideways, each holding hands with his or her neighbours. In the centre
+stood a man, seeming to be the custodian of the songs and a poet
+himself. He would first recite the piece, and then all would sing it,
+circling round at the same time. We accepted their cordial invitation to
+join in the ceremony, and had a lot of fun out of our efforts, which
+greatly amused them too, our mistakes raising shouts of laughter. The
+poet seemed to originate some of the songs, but they had others that
+were handed down. One of these, which I learned later, was:
+
+    "Montee-ree-ai-ma, mo-quontee-kai-ma
+    Umpa-shu-shu-ra-ga-va
+    Umpa-shu-shu-ra-ga-va
+    Umpa-ga-va, shu-ra-ga-va
+    Montee-ree-ai-ma."
+
+This, being translated, signifies that a long talk is enough to bore a
+hole in a cliff; at least, that was the interpretation we obtained.
+Another popular one was:
+
+    "Ca, shakum, poo kai
+    Ca, shakum poo kai
+    Ca, shakum tee kai
+    Ca, shakum tee kai,"
+
+these lines being repeated like the others over and over and over again.
+They were highly philosophical, for they explain that you must kill your
+rabbit (shakum) before you eat him. I do not remember that they sang
+these particular songs on that occasion, but they will serve as
+examples.
+
+On February 1st the Major left camp for Salt Lake with Mrs. Powell and
+the baby. Jack went along to accompany them as far as Tokerville on the
+Virgin River. Before leaving, the Major settled up with Beaman, who was
+now to separate from the party. The Major intended to go to Washington
+to ask Congress for another appropriation to continue the work of
+exploration and map-making when we had finished that already planned. On
+the 6th Clem and Bonnemort arrived from an expedition to make
+photographs down the Kanab Canyon, where the Major had been with Riley
+and Dodds. They had met with bad luck, and did not get a single
+negative. The silver bath got out of order, and the horse bearing the
+camera fell off a cliff and landed on top of the camera, which had been
+tied on the outside of the pack, with a result that need not be
+described. Bonnemort's time was now up; he wanted to go back to
+prospecting, and we reluctantly said good-bye to him. On the 16th of
+February, finding our central camp no longer practicable, we abandoned
+it and operated in small parties from various nearby points, finally
+returning again in three or four days to near the site of the old camp.
+MacEntee then wanted to go to prospecting also, and he departed. He was
+an interesting, companionable young man, educated at the University of
+Michigan, seeking a fortune, and he was desirous of striking it rich.
+Whether he ever did or not I have not learned.
+
+While camped below Kanab, Clem and I in walking one day saw a place
+where the creek which flowed on a level with the surroundings suddenly
+plunged into a deep mud canyon. This canyon had been cut back from far
+below by the undermining action of the falling water, and it was plain
+to see that it would continue its retrogression till it eventually
+reached the mouth of the great canyon several miles above, but I did not
+dream that it could accomplish this work as rapidly as it actually did
+years after. During a great flood it washed a canyon not only to Kanab
+but for miles up the gorge, sweeping away at one master stroke hundreds
+of acres of arable land and leaving a mud chasm forty feet deep. Had the
+fall we examined been arranged then so that the water might glide down,
+the fearful washout would not have occurred. There are thousands of
+places in the West to-day that require treatment to conserve arable
+land, and in time the task may be undertaken by the Government.
+
+Cap's health being such that he deemed it inadvisable to continue work
+in the field, he had severed his connection with the expedition, after
+finishing the preliminary map of Green River, and was temporarily
+settled in Kanab, where he had been for some time. On Wednesday,
+February 21st, Prof., Mrs. Thompson, and I took supper with him in one
+of the log houses at the fort, and on the 22d several of us accepted his
+invitation to dinner, a sort of farewell, for on the following day we
+started with our whole outfit for the Kaibab. We were extremely sorry to
+lose Cap, with his generous spirit and cheery ways, but when one has
+been punctured by a minie-ball he has to heed warnings. All day long we
+travelled through sandy hills gradually rising toward the plateau, the
+foot-hills of which we reached late in the afternoon. We had followed a
+waggon road with our pack-train up to this point, but here we struck off
+on a trail that was said to be a shorter way to the canyon we were
+aiming for, and a little before sunset we came to the brink of a steep
+slope, almost a cliff, where a picturesque, a romantic view opened
+before us. Below stretched away to the south a narrow, deep, and sharply
+defined valley or canyon one-eighth mile wide, the bottom of which
+seemed perfectly flat. A light snow which had fallen the night before
+whitened the sharp slopes, but from the valley bottom it had melted
+away, leaving a clear line of demarkation on either side and producing
+an extremely beautiful effect under the evening glow. Tall pine trees
+accented the scene, which was one of the most inviting I had ever
+beheld. One of our helpers from Kanab had been over the trail, and led
+us down to a small but excellent spring, within a quarter of a mile of
+which we camped, passing a most comfortable night.
+
+Before we had finished slinging the last pack in the morning, a heavy
+grey sky began to sift down thickly falling snowflakes gently as if not
+wishing to give alarm. But when we were fairly under way this mildness
+vanished, and the storm smote our caravan with fierce and blinding
+gusts, amidst which progress was difficult. After four miles up the
+valley through beautiful pine trees of great height, we came to a
+deserted log cabin only half roofed over, and there we stopped to make
+our temporary headquarters. The Stewarts of Kanab had started a saw-mill
+at this place, but as yet the work had not gone very far. The snow
+ceased by the time we had thrown off the packs, and we made ourselves as
+comfortable as circumstances permitted. Prof. had a tent put up for Mrs.
+Thompson, while some took possession of the half-roofed house, for by
+keeping on the side where the board cover was they were slightly
+sheltered. With two or three of the others I pitched a small tent. There
+was plenty of fat pine, and rousing fires made the valley seem
+habitable. A fine little brook swept full grown fifteen inches in
+diameter from under a cliff two hundred feet above the valley bottom,
+and there was no lack of good water. Our trouble was with the horses and
+mules, for we had no grain for them, and if the snow got very deep they
+would not be able to paw down to the bunch grass. The snow soon began
+again, and all night it fell with aggravating facility. Sunday morning
+opened as leaden and dark as a February day could be, and there was no
+cessation of the showers of whiteness that were rapidly building up on
+the ground a formidable barrier to our operations. As I was wearing
+rather low brogans, having discarded top-boots as too close-fitting and
+uncomfortable around camp, I now made for myself a pair of leggins out
+of pieces of a common but heavy seamless sack. When these were buttoned
+in place they answered perfectly to protect my legs from the snow. We
+hoped Monday would begin the week with a clear sky, but we were
+disappointed. We had to sally out to hunt horses, hoping at the same
+time to come across a deer, but that hope was not realised. As I got far
+from camp in the midst of the tall pines and the unbroken snow sheet, I
+suddenly became aware of a whispering sound, which I could not at first
+account for, as I did not believe in fairies. Standing perfectly still,
+I perceived that it was produced by the friction of the snowflakes upon
+the pine needles. It was a weird, ghost-like language which I had never
+listened to before.
+
+Prof. went up one thousand feet on the mountain and climbed a tree 125
+feet high with a determination to see something in spite of the snow. He
+caught a glimpse of the south wall of the Grand Canyon near Mt.
+Trumbull, miles to the west. On Tuesday he started George Adair, one of
+our Mormon assistants, back to Kanab for more rations, and directed
+Jones and Captain Dodds to get ready to start the next day for the
+south-east corner of the plateau, while Andy and I were to go to the
+south-west corner. Wednesday, February 28th, came clear, with the snow
+lying twelve inches on the level, but some of the horses were missing,
+and the day was spent in hunting this wayward stock, so it was not till
+Thursday afternoon that we got started. Our paths lying for a distance
+in the same direction, we four travelled together along a divide on the
+right or west of camp. It was slow work in the deep drifts, and we had
+not made many miles when night came on. We went into camp where we were.
+The horses bothered us by trying to go back searching for grass, and
+nobody could blame them. Finally we tied the worst offender to a tree in
+a bare place where he might pick up a few mouthfuls of food, and we
+managed to sleep the rest of the night. The only sound I heard when I
+woke up at one time was the satirical voice of an owl in the far
+distance. It seemed to be saying very deliberately "poo-poo, poo-poo,"
+and that did not sound respectful. The next morning was March 1st, and
+it brought a fine sky, which would have put us quickly on the way, or
+rather in motion toward our respective goals, as there was no road or
+trail, but one of our animals which bore the mysterious name of Yawger,
+and which was the pack-horse of Andy and me, could not be found. Jones
+and Dodds went on, as they would probably soon have to separate from us
+anyhow, while we took Yawger's track, and at last found him browsing
+happily in a bare spot about a mile from our stopping place. It was two
+o'clock by the time we started on, floundering through the drifts in the
+trail of Jones and Dodds. Some drifts were so high it was all we could
+do to wallow through them even after the others had in a measure broken
+the way. After two hours of hard work in this line we came to the edge
+of a wide gully, where the advance party had halted. The slope was
+towards the south and the ground was somewhat bare, with good bunch
+grass, where the other horses were feeding, while Jones and Dodds were
+just descending from a tall pine tree. They declared nothing but snow
+could be seen in all directions on the mountain and they were going
+back. Besides it was impossible, they told me, to cross the gulch ahead.
+I did not want to turn back till I was compelled to, and I appealed to
+Andy as to whether or not he wanted to give up, not wishing to drag him
+along unwillingly. With his characteristic nonchalance he said, "Go
+ahead if you want to." Dodds had one of his own horses with him, and he
+said he would bet me that horse I could not cross the gulch. I made a
+trial, wading ahead of my horse, the pack animal following and Andy
+driving from behind. When I got into the middle it was all I could do
+to move, but I continued my efforts till suddenly the bottom seemed to
+rise, and then in a few yards the going grew easier and we emerged
+triumphantly on the other side, where we waved an adieu to the others.
+By keeping close to the boles of the large pine trees, where the wind
+had swept circular places, leaving the snow shallow, we were soon out of
+sight of our late companions.
+
+After two or three miles of tiring work the day began to fade, but we
+reached a beautiful south slope where there was little snow, with a rich
+crop of bunch grass just starting green under the vernal influence that
+was a feast for the famished horses, the snow relieving their thirst.
+While Andy the ever-faithful got supper I reconnoitred and made up my
+mind that I could reach the locality I was trying for, by following a
+ridge I saw ahead where the snow seemed moderate. We were up and off
+early. The snow was deep but we got on quite rapidly and finally reached
+the ridge, crossing two big gulches to get to it. At eleven o'clock we
+were at the end of its summit and I could see a wide area to the west
+and north. The point appeared to be one of several similar projections
+though the one we were on was the most prominent. I selected a spot for
+a monument where we dug a hole in the rocks and dirt, and then cutting a
+tall slim pine and trimming it clean we hitched Yawger to it and made
+him drag it to the hole, where by a combination of science and strength
+we got it upright. While Andy, who had great strength, lifted and pushed
+after we had together got it half way, I propped it with a strong pole
+with a Y on the end, and in a few moments we saw the flag waving
+triumphantly from its tip at least thirty feet above our heads. Around
+its base we piled the rocks, which were exceptionally heavy, waist high,
+first cutting a notch in the pine and placing therein a can containing a
+record, and our "Point F" was finished. The rest of the day I spent in
+triangulating to various other stations, and we went to bed under a
+clear sky and a milder atmosphere. In the morning I completed my
+triangulating work and by that time the snow had settled and melted so
+that the back track was much easier than the outward march, enabling us
+to get to headquarters at the spring before dark. I had been a little
+afraid that a heavy snow would come on top of the large drifts which
+would have held us prisoners for a day or two.
+
+On Wednesday, March 6th, the whole party packed up and left the valley
+by its narrow canyon outlet, a tributary of the Kanab Canyon. It began
+eight hundred feet deep and continually increased. We called it Shinumo
+Canyon because we found everywhere indications of the former presence
+of that tribe. Snow fell at intervals and we were alternately frozen and
+melted till we reached an altitude where the warmth was continuous and
+the snow became rain. Grass fresh and green and shrubs with the feeling
+of early spring surrounded us at the junction with Kanab Canyon where
+the walls were twelve hundred feet high. A mile below we camped by a
+lone cedar tree where there were "pockets" of rain-water in the rocks.
+The next day our course was laid up Kanab Canyon through thick willows
+that pulled the packs loose. One horse fell upside down in a gully, but
+he was not hurt and we pried him out and went on, camping near a large
+pool of intensely alkaline water. On the 8th going up a branch on the
+left called Pipe Spring Wash we came out on the surface, very much as
+one might reach a second floor by a staircase. This is a feature of the
+country and as one goes northward he arrives on successive platforms, in
+this manner passing through the several cliff ranges by means of
+transverse gorges that usually begin in small "box" canyons and rapidly
+deepen till they reach the full height of the cliff walls. At two
+o'clock we came to Pipe Spring. A vacant stone house of one very large
+room and a great fireplace was put at our disposal by Mr. Winsor the
+proprietor, and it was occupied by the men while Prof. had a tent put up
+for Mrs. Thompson. We found a party of miners here who had heard of the
+gold discovery at the mouth of the Kanab on the Colorado and were
+heading that way to reap the first-fruits. They were soon followed by
+hundreds more, making a steady stream down the narrow Kanab and out
+again for some time, for on reaching the river the limited opportunity
+to do any mining was at once apparent and they immediately took the back
+track swearing vengeance on the originator of the story.
+
+For protection against raiders Mr. Winsor was building a solid double
+house of blocks of sandstone, making walls three feet thick. The two
+buildings were placed about twenty feet apart, thus forming an interior
+court the length of the houses, protected at the ends by high walls and
+heavy gates. No windows opened on the exterior, but there were plenty of
+loopholes commanding every approach. A fine large spring was conducted
+subterraneously into the corner of one of the buildings and out again,
+insuring plenty of water in case of a siege. Brigham Young was part
+owner of this establishment, and it was one of the most effective places
+of defence on a small scale, that I have ever seen. It was never needed
+so far as I have heard, and even at the time I marvelled that it should
+be so elaborately prepared--far beyond anything else in the whole
+country. The cut opposite shows this fort as it was in 1903. Clem here
+told Prof. he did not care to stay with us any longer. Ill success with
+his photographs had discouraged him, but Prof. persuaded him to remain
+for a time.
+
+Until March 21st we operated around Pipe Spring triangulating and
+recording the topography, and other data, when we packed our animals
+again and laid our course across the open country towards a range of
+blue mountains seen in the south-west. One of these had been named after
+Senator Trumbull by the Major in the autumn of 1870. They were the home
+of the Uinkarets and we called the whole group by that name, discarding
+North Side Mountains, the name Ives had given when he sighted them in
+1858 from far to the south. Adjoining the Uinkaret region on the west
+was the Shewits territory where the Howlands and Dunn were killed.
+Travelling across the dry plains we came to a well defined trail about
+sunset and followed it hoping that it would lead to water. We were not
+disappointed for it took us to a pool of rain-water in a little gulley
+at the foot of some low hills. A band of wild horses roamed the plain
+and as we had been told about a pool called the Wild Band Pocket, we had
+no doubt this was the place. There was no wood anywhere, but a diligent
+search produced enough small brush to cook by, though Andy had a hard
+time of it. Clem's horse ran away from him and lost his gun, so he
+remained behind at Pipe Spring to hunt for the weapon.
+
+[Illustration: Winsor Castle, the Defensive House at Pipe Springs.
+Photograph by H. Arthur Pomroy, 1903.]
+
+[Illustration: Little Zion Valley or the Mookoontoweap, Upper Virgin
+River.
+
+Photograph by H. Arthur Pomroy, 1903.]
+
+The next day we travelled on over hilly country, following a moccasin
+trail, with here and there cedar groves as we approached nearer to the
+mountains. On the edge of night traces of water were found in a gulch
+near the foot of Trumbull, and while Jack and a new member of our force,
+Will Johnson of Kanab, dug for more, Prof., Jones, and I scoured the
+vicinity in search of a spring or pocket, but though we found many old
+wickiups there was no water. The Uinkarets had evidently camped here in
+wet weather. When we returned we were told that the little trace of
+water in the gulch had disappeared completely after the digging, a sad
+development which was accepted by all but one old white horse which
+stood on the edge of the hole for an hour or more patiently waiting. Our
+kegs and canteens provided enough to make bread which we ate with
+sorghum, and as early as possible in the morning we pushed on without
+breakfast, three men scouting ahead to discover the pool where the Major
+in the autumn of 1870 had camped. Prof. finally found it, a large pool
+of about a hundred barrels of clear, clean water, in a lava gulch,
+surrounded by cedar and piñon trees. Andy then gave us breakfast and
+dinner at the same time, eleven o'clock. Another new member of our party
+was Beaman's successor, Fennemore, from Salt Lake, who had joined us at
+Pipe Spring on March 19th, and he was prepared to photograph the region.
+We reconnoitred the neighbourhood during the afternoon, and the next
+morning Jones and I rode in one direction around Mount Trumbull, while
+Prof. and Captain Dodds rode the other way, to ascertain the lay of the
+land, and especially to find a ranch which some St. George men had
+started in this locality. Jones and I met Whitmore, the proprietor of
+the ranch, and a friend of his, who informed us the ranch was six miles
+farther on. We concluded not to go to it, but when Prof. and Captain
+Dodds got in after dark they told us they had gone the whole way. The
+following day, Monday March 25th, all the party except Andy and a new
+member, Alf Young of Kanab, climbed to the summit of Mount Trumbull,
+finding the ascent very gradual and easy and taking the horses to the
+top, which was 2440 feet above the pool and 8650 above sea level,
+commanding a magnificent view in every direction, as far to the
+south-east as Mount San Francisco. Jones, Jack, Fennemore, and I
+remained there all night while the rest returned to camp. Jones and I
+wanted to do some topographical work and get sights to some of our
+other stations, and Fennemore, assisted by Jack, wanted pictures.
+
+Descending the opposite side the next day we went to a spring in an oak
+grove which Prof. had seen, where the others were already encamped. On
+the 27th, Prof. and I climbed a high cinder peak, of which there were
+many, to get a view, and then went to Whitmore's Ranch, where we had a
+talk with him to get points on the region. He told us he had followed a
+trail to the Colorado, about twelve miles, to what he called the Ute
+Crossing. If I remember correctly he had taken a horse down at that
+point. The next day Johnson and I put a signal flag on one of the high
+mountains, afterwards named Logan, forming Signal Station Number 7. This
+was a volcanic district and there were many old craters. Near the Oak
+Spring camp was an extensive sheet of lava, seeming to have cooled but a
+year or two before. Its surface was all fractured, but there were no
+trees on its lower extremity and where it had flowed around a hill its
+recent plasticity was exceedingly distinct. It had come from a crater,
+about five hundred feet high, two miles north. This had once been a cone
+but it was now disrupted, the lava having burst through to the north and
+to the south, leaving two sections standing, the stream to the south
+being one quarter mile wide and a mile and a half long, that on the
+north one mile wide and about the same in length. The depth of these
+streams was not far from thirty feet, and in spite of the exceedingly
+rugged surface the southern stream was marked by deeply worn trails
+running to and from a small spring situated in the middle of it. Beside
+this spring one of the men from the ranch had found a human skeleton,
+covered with fragments of lava, with the decayed remains of a wicker
+water-jug between the ribs, marking some unrecorded tragedy. We
+estimated that less than three hundred years had passed since the last
+outburst from the crater. As there were pine trees a hundred years old
+on the lava where it was more disintegrated near the point of outpour,
+the age of the flow could not have been less than that.
+
+Friday the 29th being cloudy and stormy nothing in the line of geodetic
+work was done and we could only rest in camp. Dodds and Jones who had
+gone to explore a way to the Grand Canyon came in reporting success.
+Saturday morning Jones and Fennemore started for Kanab to bring out more
+rations and meet us either at Fort Pierce or at Berry's Spring near St.
+George, while Prof. with Dodds and Johnson went to try to follow the
+trail Whitmore had told about to the river, but after four miles they
+gave it up and climbed by a side trail to the plateau again. They made a
+dry camp and the next day went on till they found water enough for the
+horses in some pools on the rocks, and here, leaving the others to
+continue the reconnaissance, Prof. came back to our camp, arriving in a
+snow-storm. It had been snowing with us at intervals all day. The next
+day was April first, and with it came still heavier snow. We planned to
+move down to the edge of the Grand Canyon, and Jack and Andy started as
+Jack wished to make some photographs there, but the snow continuing we
+concluded to wait till another day. When that came the snow was quite
+deep on the ground and was still falling hard, which it continued to do
+most of the time, preventing us from moving. Fennemore had brought with
+him a copy of _The Count of Monte Cristo_, which I had never read, and
+in its pages I soon became oblivious to the surroundings. The snow kept
+on the next day also and all the men out returned to the main camp,
+Dodds and Johnson having reached the river bank. When another morning
+dawned and showed no cessation of the aggravating storm, with the snow
+fifteen inches on the level, Prof. said he would pack up Friday the 5th
+and get down to lower country around St. George. The day came clear and
+sunny and the snow began to melt. We headed for the Pine Valley
+Mountains back of St. George and made about twenty miles with no snow
+after the first six, the altitude dropping to where the temperature was
+milder. Prof. had inquired at the ranch about trails, but there were so
+many cattle trails that we did not get on the right one. We made a dry
+camp and early the following morning went on, not being able to see any
+landmarks because of the clouds. Half an hour after starting a thick
+snow-storm set in but we kept going, till in about a mile and a half the
+world seemed suddenly to end. Above, below, and around us was a great
+blank whiteness. Dismounting and cautiously advancing on foot we
+discovered that we were on the brink of a very high cliff. As we did not
+know which way to turn we threw off the packs and stopped where we were.
+Spreading out blankets we scraped the snow from them into the kettles to
+melt for water. Then by holding a blanket up over Andy by the four
+corners he was able, with some chips he had previously chopped out of
+the side of a dead pine, to start a fire, by which he proceeded to cook
+dinner.
+
+When the snow fell less heavily we could peer down and then saw that the
+cliff was continuous in both directions. By half-past two, with our kegs
+and canteens filled with the snow water, we were again on the way
+following along to find a place to go down, but we saw none that seemed
+practicable, and at last, having made altogether five miles, we halted
+for the night in a grove of cedars, where we had a good fire and were
+comfortable though our rations were now growing scarce. Snow at
+intervals continued all day up to bedtime. The next day was Sunday. We
+travelled twenty miles along the line of cliffs and camped near a canyon
+in which we found pools of good water. We saw an antelope during the day
+but could not get it. Andy baked up the last of our flour for supper and
+put on a pot of beans and one of dried peaches to cook for breakfast.
+The beans were edible in the morning and we disposed of them and the
+peaches and went on our way. After a day of many ups and downs we
+arrived about two o'clock at a ranch called Gould's or Workman's, where
+we bought five dollars worth of corn-meal and milk. We were now on what
+the inhabitants of the region called Hurricane Hill, and from this we
+applied the name Hurricane Ledge to the long line of sharp cliffs we had
+followed, which begin at the Virgin River and extend, almost unbroken
+and eight hundred to a thousand feet high, south to the Grand Canyon,
+forming the western boundary of the Uinkaret Plateau. From Gould's we
+had a waggon road and following it we were led to the brink of the
+Hurricane Ledge, where a road had been constructed to the bottom. Before
+descending we took a final look at the enchanting view opening away to
+the north and north-west. At our feet was the Virgin Valley with the
+green fields of Tokerville, while beyond rose magnificent cliffs
+culminating to the north-west in the giant buttes and precipices of the
+Mookoontoweap, or, as the Mormons call it, Little Zion Valley. Topping
+the whole sweep of magnificent kaleidoscopic topography were the Pine
+Valley Mountains and the lofty cliffs of the Colob and Markargunt
+plateaus. It has ever since been my opinion that few outlooks in all
+the world are superior for colour and form to that stretching north from
+the northern part of the Hurricane Ledge.[29]
+
+Descending to the valley we arrived just at dusk at Berry's Spring,
+where our waggon under the direction of Jones had come with supplies.
+The spring was an excellent one and the rivulet flowing away from it was
+bordered with large wild-rose bushes. Though the waggon and supplies
+were there Jones was not, for we had expected to come in from farther
+west past Fort Pierce, and he had gone on to that place to tell us where
+he had decided to camp. Clem had found his gun and come out with them,
+the others of the party being Fennemore and George Adair. Jones came
+back the next day and prepared to start with Andy and Johnson for
+several days' work in the Pine Valley Mountains, while Jack, Captain
+Dodds, Fennemore, and I were to return to the Uinkaret region to
+complete certain work there. Some goods to be distributed to the natives
+from the Indian Bureau arrived at St. George and Prof. went there with
+George Adair to have a talk with the Indians to be found, and distribute
+goods. We had seen no Indians at all in the Uinkaret region. He
+discovered the Shewits who came in to be afraid of us, thinking we
+wanted to kill them, but they were willing to accept anything they could
+get in the line of presents. Hardly any would acknowledge themselves to
+be either Uinkarets or Shewits.
+
+On April 12th, according to the plan, Jack, Dodds, Fennemore, and I
+started back to the Uinkaret Mountains, following the trail we had tried
+to strike coming out. It led past a place called Fort Pierce, a small
+stone building the settlers had formerly used as an advance post against
+the Shewits and Uinkarets. There we spent the night, and the next day
+after some trouble we got on the right trail, and on Monday, the 15th of
+April, we again reached what we had called Oak Spring, near Mount
+Trumbull, and the southern flow of lava already described. The following
+day Jack and Fennemore went down to the brink of the Grand Canyon, at
+the foot of a sort of valley the Uinkarets called Toroweap, while with
+Dodds I climbed the peak later named after Senator Logan, and attempted
+some triangulation, but the air was so murky I could not get my sights
+and had to return for them the next morning. The day after that we
+climbed Mount Trumbull, and I triangulated from there. One of my sights
+from Logan was to a conical butte near which we had camped as we came
+out, and near which we had found a large ant-hill covered with small,
+perfect quartz crystals that sparkled in the sun like diamonds. When I
+sighted to this butte, for want of a better name, I recorded it
+temporarily as Diamond Butte, remembering the crystals, and the name
+became fixed, which shows how unintentionally names are sometimes
+bestowed. We examined the lava flows and the crater again, and I made a
+sketch in pencil from another point of view from one I had made during
+our former sojourn. Then we joined Jack and Fennemore, who had been
+taking negatives at the canyon edge. On the 20th Dodds and I climbed
+down the cliffs about three thousand feet to the water at a rapid called
+Lava Falls. Across the river we could see a very large spring, but of
+course we could not get over to it. Returning to Oak Spring, we spent
+there another night, and in the morning, while the others started for
+headquarters, I rode around to the ranch to inquire about a spring I had
+heard something about existing on the St. George trail; but the solitary
+man I found there, who came out of the woods in response to my shout, a
+walking arsenal, did not know anything concerning it. After drinking a
+quart or two of milk, which he kindly offered me, I rode on to join my
+companions by continuing around the mountain, "running in" the trail as
+I went with a prismatic compass. Presently I saw a cougar sitting
+upright behind a big log, calmly staring at me, so I dismounted and sent
+a Winchester bullet in his direction. My mule was highly nervous about
+firearms, and having to restrain her antics by putting my arm through
+the bridle rein, her snorting skittishness both at the rifle and the
+cougar disturbed my aim and my shot went a trifle under. The bullet
+seemed to clip the log, but if it hit the cougar the effect was not what
+I expected, for with a rush like a sky-rocket the animal disappeared in
+the top of the pine tree overhead, and I could see nothing more of it
+though I rode about looking for it. Not wishing to dally here, I spurred
+on to overtake my party, but in trying a short cut I passed beyond them,
+as they had by that time halted in some cedars for lunch. The man at
+the ranch had told me that Whitmore was due to arrive that day, and
+having missed a part of the trail by the short cut, I could not judge by
+the tracks as to where my party were, and not caring to waste time, I
+rode on and on till I had gone so far I did not want to turn back.
+Evening came, but there was a good moon, and I did not stop till eight
+o'clock. The night was cold; the plain was barren and bleak. I had no
+coat, but with the saddle blanket and a handful of dead brush, which I
+burned by installments, I managed to warm myself enough to sleep by
+short intervals. I was on my feet with the dawn, but my mule was nowhere
+to be seen, though I had hoppled her well with my bridle reins. I
+tracked the mule about five miles to a muddy place where there had been
+water, caught her, and rode back to my saddle, when I continued my
+journey, running in the trail as I went. I became pretty thirsty and
+hungry, but the only thing for me to do was to continue to our main
+camp. Had I gone back I might have missed our men again, for there had
+been some talk about a short-cut trail, and I feared they might try it.
+At two o'clock I reached Black Rock Canyon, where there was a
+water-pocket full of warm and dirty water, but both the mule and I took
+a drink and I rode on, passing Fort Pierce at sunset. Off on my right I
+perceived ten or twelve Shewits Indians on foot travelling rapidly along
+in Indian file, and as the darkness fell and I had to go through some
+wooded gulches I confess I was a little uncomfortable and kept my rifle
+in readiness; but I was not molested and reached camp about ten o'clock,
+where I ate a large piece of bread with molasses, after a good drink of
+water, and went to bed. The others arrived the following afternoon. I
+had left notes for them by the trail in cleft-sticks, so they knew that
+I was ahead. This was the longest trip I ever made without water or
+food.
+
+We prepared to start out again in different directions; one party was to
+go to the Pine Valley Mountains, another to Pipe Spring and the mouth of
+the Paria to look after our property there, a third up the Virgin Valley
+for photographs, and a fourth to St. George and the Virgin range of
+mountains south-west of that town. Prof. headed this last party, and he
+took me as his topographical assistant. April 27th we rode into St.
+George, a town I was much interested to see. I found a very pretty,
+neat, well-ordered little city of about fifteen hundred population, with
+a good schoolhouse, a stone tabernacle with a spire, and a court house,
+the water running in ditches along the streets for irrigating purposes
+as well as for drinking. About a mile below the town we camped, and we
+could hear the band playing a serenade to one of the officials who was
+to start the next day on a long journey. After several days of feeling
+our way about in the rugged and dry region below St. George, we finally
+discovered a good water-pocket, from which Prof. and I made a long, hard
+ride and climb, and about sunset camped at the base of what is now
+called Mount Bangs, the highest peak of the Virgin Mountains, for which
+we were aiming. The next day we climbed an additional eleven hundred
+feet to its summit, and completed our work in time by swift riding to
+get to our main camp at the water-pocket by half-past six.
+
+It was an easy trip back to St. George, following an old trail, and then
+we made our way to Kanab again, where we put all our notes in shape and
+fitted out for the journey to the mouth of the Dirty Devil across the
+unknown country.
+
+
+[Illustration: In the Unknown Country.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 28: For the linguistic classification of stocks and tribes of
+the United States, see Appendix, _The North Americans of Yesterday_, by
+F. S. Dellenbaugh.]
+
+[Footnote 29: For a description of Little Zion Valley, see "A New Valley
+of Wonders," by F. S. Dellenbaugh, _Scribner's Magazine_, January,
+1904.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+     Off for the unknown Country--A lonely Grave--Climbing a
+     Hog-back to a green grassy Valley--Surprising a Ute
+     Camp--Towich-a-tick-a-boo--Following a Blind Trail--The
+     Unknown Mountains Become Known--Down a deep Canyon--To the
+     Paria with the _Cañonita_--John D. Lee and Lonely Dell.
+
+
+Andy and Captain Dodds, who had gone to the mouth of the Paria to
+ascertain the condition of our boats, returned May 15th, reporting the
+boats all right, but the caches we had left torn up by wolves and
+prospectors. The latter had stolen oars and other things, and gone down
+on a raft to be wrecked at the first rapid in Marble Canyon, where they
+just escaped with their lives. A settler had established himself there a
+short time before, the notorious John D. Lee, who was reputed to have
+led the massacre of the unfortunate Missourians at Mountain Meadows in
+1857, and who had eluded capture all these years. He had been "cut off,"
+nominally at least, from the Mormon Church, and had lived in the most
+out-of-the-way places, constantly on his guard. Our men took all our
+ropes and remaining materials from the caches to his cabin, where they
+would be safe till our arrival. We prepared for the trip eastward across
+the unknown country to the mouth of the Dirty Devil River, and by the
+22d of May I had completed the preliminary map of the region to westward
+which we had just reconnoitred. Mrs. Thompson was to stay in Kanab, for
+Prof. decided that it would not be advisable for her to accompany him on
+this journey, although she was the most cheerful and resolute explorer
+of the whole company. A large tent was erected for her in the corner of
+Jacob's garden, and she was to take her meals with Sister Louisa, whose
+house stood close by. With Fuzz, a most intelligent dog, for a companion
+in her tent and the genial Sister Louisa for a near neighbour she was
+satisfactorily settled. Fuzz had the peculiarity of sympathising with
+the Navajos in their contempt for the Pai Utes. The latter roused his
+ire on the instant, but when a Navajo came up, with his confident step,
+Fuzz would lie still, with merely a roll of the eye to signify that he
+was on guard.
+
+Saturday, May 25th, our caravan of riders, pack animals, and a waggon
+moved slowly toward Eight-Mile Spring, the first stop in prospect. I
+rode a brisk little horse which had received the lofty name of Aaron.
+When we reached Eight-Mile Spring about noon there was barely enough
+water for our animals and for cooking dinner, which compelled our going
+elsewhere to put on the finishing touches to our outfit before cutting
+loose from the settlements, and Prof. directed the caravan to continue
+to Johnson, farther east and up one of the canyons of the Vermilion
+Cliffs. He returned to Kanab to make some final arrangements there,
+while we kept on to Johnson, passing the little settlement of two or
+three houses, and making a camp two miles above, where the canyon bottom
+was wide and level. Here we went over everything to be sure that all was
+in good order and nothing left behind. The animals were reshod where
+necessary, which operation kept Andy and Dodds busy all of Sunday, the
+26th. By thus making a start and proceeding a few miles all defects and
+neglects become apparent before it is too late to remedy them. On Monday
+Jack went back to Kanab with the waggon, returning toward night with
+George Adair. Fennemore had started with them, but he had turned back
+after something forgotten, and they did not know whether or not he had
+come on. In the morning George went off to look for him, and met him
+down at the settlement. He had followed on the day before, but instead
+of turning up the Johnson road, according to instructions, he had gone
+ahead on the road towards the Paria settlement. Finally concluding that
+he was wrong he had tried to correct his mistake by moonlight, but after
+a while gave it up, tied his mule, unsaddled, to a cedar, and claimed
+the protection of another for himself. During the night the mule chewed
+the bridle in two and departed for Kanab, leaving Fennemore, when
+daylight came, to walk some eight miles under a hot sun without water or
+breakfast to Johnson. He was considerably used up by this episode, and
+put in the remainder of the day in recuperating. The evenings were
+wonderfully beautiful, and looking from a height the scene was
+exceptionally picturesque, with the red rocks, the warm sky, the camp
+equipage, and the air so still that the smoke of the camp-fires rose
+slender and unbroken till lost in the zenith.
+
+Early Wednesday morning Prof. rode up on his powerful buckskin-coloured
+horse, and with Johnson and me went over to our Point B some miles away
+for some bearings, while Fennemore rode in search of his abandoned
+saddle. By night there was nothing to interfere with our making the
+final start, which we did May 30th, proceeding up the canyon without
+Mormon, one of our strongest horses, which by an accident had been
+injured so badly that he had to be left behind at Johnson. He was a
+fractious, unruly beast, but with so great vitality that we were sorry
+not to have his services. He died a week or two later. Towards night we
+passed another very small settlement called Clarkston, and camped near
+it, the last houses we would see for some time. Several Pai Utes hung
+around, and Prof. engaged one called Tom to accompany us as interpreter
+and, so far as he might know the country, as guide.
+
+The next day, after sixteen miles north-easterly up canyons, we entered
+about three o'clock an exceedingly beautiful little valley, with a fine
+spring and a small lake or pond at the lower end. George Adair instantly
+declared that he meant to come back here to live, and after dinner when
+we reconnoitred the place he staked out his claim. All the next morning,
+June 1st, our way led over rolling meadows covered with fine grass, but
+about noon this ended and we entered the broken country of the upper
+Paria, with gullies and gulches barren and dry the rest of the day,
+except two, in which we crossed small branches of the Paria. In one of
+the dry gulches we passed a grave, marked by a sandstone slab with E. A.
+cut on it, which the wolves had dug out, leaving the human bones
+scattered all around. We could not stop to reinter them. They were the
+remains of Elijah Averett, a young Mormon, who was killed while pursuing
+Pai Utes in 1866. Just before sunset we arrived at the banks of the
+Paria, where we made camp, with plenty of wood, water, and grass.
+Captain Dodds during the afternoon recognised a place he had been in
+when hunting a way the autumn before, and we followed his old trail for
+a time. Leaving the Paria the following day where it branches, we
+followed the east fork to its head, twelve miles, climbing rapidly
+through a narrow valley. We could plainly see on the left a high, flat,
+cliff-bounded summit, which was called Table Mountain, and early in the
+afternoon we reached a series of "hog-backs," and up one of which the
+old Indian trail we were now following took its precarious way. The
+hog-backs were narrow ridges of half-disintegrated clay-shale, with
+sides like the roof of a house, the trail following the sharp
+summit-line. Before we had fairly begun this very steep, slippery, and
+narrow climb, the thunder boomed and the heavens threw down upon us
+fierce torrents of rain, soaking everything and chilling us through and
+through, while making the trail like wet soap. Part way up, at one of
+the worst places, a pack came loose, and, slipping back, hung on the
+rump of the horse. There was no room for bucking it off, and there was
+no trouble so far as the beast of burden was concerned, for he realised
+fully his own danger. Two of us managed to climb along past the other
+animals to where he meekly stood waiting on the narrow ridge, with a
+descent on each side of eight hundred or nine hundred feet, and set
+things in order once more, when the cavalcade continued the ascent, the
+total amount of which was some twelve hundred feet.
+
+Arriving at the top we found ourselves almost immediately on the edge of
+a delightful little valley, mossy and green with a fresh June dress,
+down which we proceeded two or three miles to a spring where Dodds and
+Jacob had made a cache of some flour the year before. The flour had
+disappeared. We made a camp and dried out our clothes, blankets, etc.,
+by means of large fires. Though it was summer the air was decidedly
+chilly, for we were at an altitude of nearly 6000 feet. Our interpreter
+that was to be did not enjoy the situation and I think he dreaded
+meeting with the stranger Indians we might encounter. He declared he was
+"heap sick," and begged to be allowed to return, so Prof. gave him
+several days' rations and we saw him no more. There was a pretty creek
+in this valley flowing eastward, which Dodds said was the head of the
+Dirty Devil, the same stream he had followed down the year before in the
+attempt to find a way to bring us rations. The weather was very bad but
+we kept on down Potato Valley as it had been named, crossing three or
+four swift tributaries. About four o'clock we stopped beside a raging
+torrent and went into camp to reconnoitre. There were signs of some one
+having been here about a month before, and as the animals were shod we
+judged it was some prospector. The next day was so wet and Prof. was
+feeling so sick that we kept our camp, having made tents out of paulins
+and pack-covers, which gave me a chance to plot up the trail from Kanab
+to this point, one hundred and three miles. Instead of crossing the
+torrent the following day, June 5th, we went over the chief stream
+before the union and travelled down the right-hand side till we arrived
+within half a mile of the place where the river canyoned and received a
+tributary from the left. It cut into the rocks very abruptly and being
+high we could not enter the canyon as Dodds had done. While the party
+camped here, Prof. and Dodds rode away to the south on a dim trail to
+find out what move to make; how far we might be able to go down the
+Dirty Devil the next day. When they got back they reported finding a
+canyon twelve miles farther on, with many water-pockets, and concluded
+to go there. We arrived about noon Thursday, June 6th, making camp.
+Prof. and Dodds then climbed to where they could get a wide view, and
+Dodds pointed out the locality he had before reached when he thought
+himself so near the mouth of the Dirty Devil. No sooner had he done so
+than Prof. perceived at once that we were not on the river we thought we
+were on, for by this explanation he saw that the stream we were trying
+to descend flowed into the Colorado far to the south-west of the Unknown
+Mountains, whereas he knew positively that the Dirty Devil came in on
+the north-east. Then the question was, "What river is this?" for we had
+not noted a tributary of any size between the Dirty Devil and the San
+Juan. It was a new river whose identity had not been fathomed. This
+discovery put a different complexion on everything. The problem was more
+complicated than Dodds had imagined when he was trying to reach the
+mouth the year before.
+
+Prof. declared it was impossible to proceed farther in this direction
+towards our goal. The canyon of the river was narrow, and with the
+stream swimming high it was out of the question as a path for us now,
+and even had we been able to go down far enough to get out on the other
+side, the region intervening between it and the distant mountains was a
+heterogeneous conglomeration of unknown mesas and canyons that appeared
+impassable. He concluded the only thing to do was to go north to the
+summit of the Wasatch cliffs and keep along the high land north-east to
+an angle where these slopes vanished to the north. From that point we
+might be able to cross to the Dirty Devil or Unknown Mountains. Once at
+these mountains we felt certain of finding a way to our former
+camp-ground at the mouth of the Dirty Devil River. We retraced our path
+to the foot of Potato Valley, and there Jones, Clem, and George Adair
+were sent out to Kanab for additional rations, it being plain that we
+were in for a longer effort than had been contemplated. They were to be
+here again in twelve days to meet Prof. with his party, on the return
+from starting down the _Cañonita_ with a crew selected from the seven
+remaining men. This seven, which included Prof., were now to strike up a
+branch creek and reach the upper slopes of what he later called the
+Aquarius Plateau, and along its verdant slopes continue our effort to
+reach the Unknown Mountains. The two parties separated on Saturday, June
+8th, our contingent travelling about eighteen miles nearly due north,
+till just at sunset we entered a high valley in which flowed two
+splendid creeks. There we camped with an abundance of everything needed
+to make a comfortable rest for man and beast. In such travel as this the
+beast is almost the first consideration, for without him movement is
+slow and difficult and distance limited. We had gone up in altitude a
+great deal, 1800 or 2000 feet, and the next day, which was Sunday, we
+continued this upward course, seeing signs of deer and elk with an
+occasional sight of a fat "pine hen" winging its heavy flight from tree
+to tree. The pines were very tall and thick, interspersed with fir and
+balsam as well as with the usual accompaniment of high altitude in the
+West, the aspen. Our aneroids indicated 10,000 feet above sea-level, and
+we could look down upon the vast canyoned desert to the south as on a
+map. Descending into a deep canyon where a clear torrent was foaming
+down at the rate of five hundred feet to the mile, we went up a branch
+and finally passing over a sudden crest discovered before us a very
+beautiful lake of an extent of some two hundred acres. It was now late,
+and though we had come only ten miles we went into camp for the night.
+There were several smaller lagoons nearby and we named the group the
+Aspen Lakes. Around them in the dense groves huge snowbanks still
+lingered from the heart of winter. A prettier mountain region than this
+could not be imagined, while the magnificent outlook to the south and
+east across the broken country was a bewildering sight, especially as
+the night enveloped it, deepening the mystery of its entangled gorges
+and cliffs. From every point we could see the Navajo Mountain and at
+least we knew what there was at the foot of its majestic northern slope.
+I climbed far above camp and crossing over a promontory looked down upon
+the nebulous region to the eastward that we were to fathom, and it
+seemed to me one of the most interesting sights I had ever beheld. The
+night was so cold that ice formed in our kettles, for our altitude in
+feet above sea was in the ten thousand still.
+
+[Illustration: Navajo Mountain from near Kaiparowits Peak.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.]
+
+All the next morning, Monday, June 10th, we rode through a delightful
+region of rolling meadows, beautiful groves of pines and aspens, and
+cool, clear creeks. Near noon we descended into a fertile valley where
+we crossed two superb torrential streams and camped at the second under
+a giant pine. Fennemore felt very sick, which prevented further progress
+this day, and we put in the afternoon exploring as far as we could the
+neighbourhood. More lakes were found and as they were in a cup-like
+depression we called them the "Hidden Lakes." Jack made some fine
+negatives of several of these pretty bodies of water, two of which I
+have added to the illustrations of this volume. Not far from our camp
+two more splendid creeks came together to form one, which Dodds said he
+thought was that named by them Big Boulder, where it joined the main
+stream down below. The next morning, Tuesday, we began our day's work by
+soon crossing Cataract and Cascade creeks before they united to form the
+Big Boulder, rushing down with an impetuosity that was forbidding. The
+two forming creeks were much alike, but we could see back in the
+distance a beautiful cascade of fully 1000 feet in which the second
+stream originated, and we distinguished it by that name. All day we
+travelled over a rancher's paradise, meeting no Indians and seeing no
+recent signs of any except in some filmy smoke mounting mysteriously
+from canyons in the tangled sandstone labyrinth below. Who were they,
+how many, and what might be their temper? were questions that came to us
+as we reflected on the presence there of unknown human beings, and
+furthermore would we meet them, and if so when? As on the preceding day
+we crossed many fine brooks which in the dry season probably would not
+make so vigorous a showing. Late in the afternoon, having travelled
+fifteen miles, we reached the point where the end of the Wasatch or
+Aquarius Plateau, the high slope of which we were using as a bridge from
+Potato Valley to the Unknown Mountains, broke back to the north, cutting
+us off once more from our objective, for a wide stretch, twenty-five
+miles in an airline, of ragged desert apparently impassable still
+intervened. We camped there at a convenient little spring. In the
+morning I was sent with Johnson for my companion in one direction down
+the mountain to look for some old trail, while Prof. with Dodds went in
+another. Scarcely had I gone half a mile when I found tolerably fresh
+Indian sign, and a mile or two farther on we struck a recently travelled
+trail. The horses that had gone over it were unshod and there were
+moccasin tracks indicating Indians without a doubt, but what kind of
+course the track did not reveal. The trail led towards the Dirty Devil
+Mountains, and we followed it three or four miles to ascertain with
+certainty its general course. There was a possibility of our stumbling
+upon the Indians in camp at some bend, and as this was not desirable for
+only two of us we turned back as soon as we felt sure of the direction.
+Prof. had seen no trail at all, and he said we would take the one I had
+found and follow it. That night was disagreeable and rainy with
+numberless mosquitoes, but worst of all one of our new men always snored
+till the ground shook, and owing to the rain we could not get away from
+him, for we had to remain in the improvised tent to keep dry.
+
+The morning light never was more welcome and we were all up early. The
+day was fair. We were soon off and made our way down from the grassy
+heights to the trail, tracing its wearisome twists and turns, sometimes
+thinking it was not going our way at all when the next turn would be
+exactly right. In general its course was about east. The land was
+desolate and dry, and exactly as the region appeared from above, a
+complete labyrinth of variously coloured cliffs and canyons. Besides
+being very crooked on account of the nature of the topography, the trail
+at times was indistinct because of the barren rocks, smooth as a floor,
+with nothing to take an imprint. In these places we were obliged to make
+the best guess we could. We came to a place where a valley lay about
+1800 feet below us, with the descent to it over bare, smooth, white
+sandstone almost as steep as a horse could stand on. We travelled a mile
+and a half over this and then found ourselves in a better looking region
+where, after a few miles, we discovered a beautiful creek flowing
+rapidly. There was plenty of good grass and we made our camp beneath
+some cottonwood trees, having accomplished twenty miles the way we came.
+Smoke of an Indian fire was rolling up about three miles below us, but
+we paid little attention to it. Every man delayed putting down his
+blankets till the champion snorer had selected the site of his bed, and
+then we all got as far away as the locality would permit. Having slept
+little the night before, we hardly stirred till morning, and in
+gratitude we called the stream Pleasant Creek without an attempt at
+originality.
+
+It was Friday, May 14th, and our long cavalcade proceeded in the usual
+single file down along the creek in the direction of the Indian smoke.
+Scarcely had we gone three miles when suddenly we heard a yell and the
+bark of a dog. Then we discovered two squaws on the other side who had
+been gathering seeds, and who were now giving the alarm, for we were
+close upon an Indian camp set on the edge of a low hill on the opposite
+side of the creek. Our outfit presented rather a formidable appearance,
+especially as we were an unexpected apparition, and we could see them
+all running to hide, though I thought for a moment we might have a
+battle. Without a halt, Prof. led the way across the creek to the foot
+of the hill, and as we reached the place one poor old man left as a
+sacrifice came tottering down, so overcome by fear that he could barely
+articulate, "Hah-ro-ro-roo, towich-a-tick-a-boo," meaning very friendly
+he was, and extending his trembling hand. Doubtless he expected to be
+shot on the instant. With a laugh we each shook his hand in turn saying
+"towich-a-tick-a-boo, old man," and rode up the hill into the camp,
+where we found all the wickiups with everything lying about just as they
+had been using it at the moment of receiving the alarm. We dismounted
+and inducing the terrified old man to sit down in one of the wickiups,
+Prof. sat with him and we rolled cigarettes, giving him one, and when
+all were smoking, except Prof. who never used tobacco, we urged him in
+English and Pai Ute and by signs to call the others back. I walked a few
+yards out on the hill and just then, with a rush and a clatter of
+language I could not understand, except "Impoo immy pshakai?" (What do
+you want?) the two squaws who had been up the creek arrived. The
+foremost one, frothing at the mouth with excitement and effort, dashed
+at me with an uplifted butcher knife as if she would enjoy sending it
+into me, but I laughed at her and she halted immediately in front of me.
+She broke into a maniacal laugh then and shouted something to the hidden
+refugees. We persuaded the old man also to call them, and he stepped out
+from the cedars which grew on the point and spoke a loud sentence. At
+last they began to appear silently and one by one. There were eight of
+the men, all well dressed in buckskin, and a number of women and
+children. When they became confident that we really meant to be friendly
+they relaxed their vigilance. With the hope of securing a guide and also
+to study them a little we went into camp in the creek bottom under the
+hill where they came to visit us. Their language and appearance showed
+them to be Utes.
+
+When Prof. got back to Kanab he heard that a party of Red Lake Utes had
+killed a white boy near the Sevier settlements, and he concluded this
+band must have been the one. They probably thought we were pursuing them
+into their secret lair to punish them. Their great anxiety to trade for
+powder indicated their lack of that article and partly explained the
+precipitousness of their retreat. They had numbers of well dressed
+buckskins and a very small amount of powder would buy one, but as we had
+only metallic cartridges we could do little in the line of exchange. To
+satisfy one of them that we had no loose powder I removed the spring
+from the magazine of my Winchester and poured the sixteen cartridges
+out. He had never seen such a gun before and was greatly astonished,
+though he hardly understood how it worked. Prof. tried his best to
+persuade one to go with us as a guide, for the labyrinth ahead was a
+puzzle, but whether through fear or disinclination to leave friends not
+one would go. The chief gave us a minute description of the trail to the
+Unknown or Dirty Devil Mountains as well as he could by signs and words,
+some of which we could not understand, and long afterwards we learned
+that his information was exactly correct, though at the time through
+misunderstanding we were not able to follow it. They also told us there
+was a trail to the big river beyond the mountains.
+
+There was a little canyon in the creek nearby and the water rushed down
+over a bed of bare rock at an angle of about twenty degrees. We were
+surprised to discover hundreds of fish six to nine inches long wriggling
+up the stream along one edge where the water was very shallow. They
+formed a line from top to bottom.
+
+Unable to secure the guide, we left at six o'clock in the morning,
+Saturday, June 15th, with all our relations cordial, the Utes going away
+before we did, and struck out on the trail which led south-eastward from
+this camp. Travelling twelve miles, we passed through a narrow canyon
+into a larger one, believing that we were following the chief's
+direction. Recent heavy rains had washed out the trail, and not knowing
+its course it was impossible to keep even its general direction. Going
+up a left-hand branch of the canyon--that is, to the north--we found no
+exit, so we came down and followed a trail up the right-hand branch till
+it disappeared, then going back once more to the entrance we again went
+up the left-hand branch till we came to a vertical wall one thousand
+feet high, which turned us around. The right-hand one was entered
+another time, and towards its head where the cliffs could not be climbed
+we made camp, with an abundance of water which was so strongly alkaline
+we could not use it and had to keep the stock from it also. Our kegs
+were full and we did not suffer except by limitation. In the morning we
+continued up the same canyon till it ended in vertical cliffs, beneath
+which there was a large pool of pure cool water, with ferns clinging
+above it to the rocks and rank vegetation all around. This was an
+immense relief, and we found it hard to turn our backs on so attractive
+a spot and go down the gorge once more to a point not far below our last
+camp. Here the walls were about a thousand feet and very precipitous,
+though somewhat broken. Prof., Jack, Dodds, and I climbed out on the
+north and hunted for water in different directions on the top. I kept on
+and on down a dry wash, persisting against the objection of Dodds, who
+thought it useless, and was at last rewarded by discovering a pocket
+among the rocks containing several barrels of water, with another that
+was larger a short distance below in a crevice on a rock-shelf at the
+brink of a canyon.
+
+We returned to camp with this news, where Prof. and Jack soon joined us.
+They had found no pockets, but had seen the divide between the waters of
+the Colorado and the Dirty Devil, which we could follow to the mountains
+if we could scale the cliffs. Prof. had selected a point where he
+thought we could mount. With a liberal use of axe, shovel, and pick we
+succeeded in gaining the summit in an hour and a half. With all the
+cliff-climbing we had done with horses this seemed to me our paramount
+achievement. The day was ending by this time, and I led the way with
+some trepidation towards the pocket I had found, for in my haste to get
+back I had not carefully noted the topography. The cedars and piñons all
+looked alike in the twilight shades, and as I went on and on the men
+behind began to lose faith and made joking remarks about my mental
+status. I felt certain I was right, yet the distance seemed so much
+greater in the dusk than when I had traversed it on foot that I was a
+little disturbed. By the time we at last got to the pocket darkness was
+upon us, though nobody cared for anything but water, and there it was
+fresh and pure. The animals and ourselves (Andy filling the kettles
+first) consumed the entire amount, but it gave each a full drink, and we
+held the second pool in reserve.
+
+[Illustration: Tantalus Creek.
+
+Tributary of Frémont River.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers.]
+
+[Illustration: D. Preliminary map of a portion of the northern part of
+the unknown country indicated by the blank space on Map A at page 95,
+showing the course of part of Glen Canyon, the mouth of the Frémont
+(Dirty Devil) River, the Henry (Unknown) Mountains, and the trail of the
+first known party of white men to cross this area. The Escalante River,
+which was mistaken for the Dirty Devil, enters the Colorado just above
+the first letter "o" of Colorado at the bottom of the map. The Dirty
+Devil enters from the north at the upper right-hand side.]
+
+When morning came we engineered a way for the animals down to the shelf
+where the other pocket was, twenty or thirty feet below, by pulling
+rocks away in places and piling them up in others. The shelf was perhaps
+fifty or sixty feet wide, with a sheer plunge of one thousand feet at
+the outer end into the first canyon we had followed. The animals could
+not get to the water, but we dipped it out for them in the camp kettles.
+The way up from the shelf was so very steep that at one point two of us
+had to put our shoulders to the haunches of some of the horses to
+"boost" them, while other men pulled on a strong halter from above, and
+in this way we soon had them all watered and ready for pack and saddle.
+Keeping along the divide we had comparatively easy going, with the
+Unknown Mountains ever looming nearer, till their blue mystery vanished
+and we could discern ordinary rocks and trees composing their slopes.
+About noon we arrived at the edge of an intervening valley, with the
+wind blowing so fierce a gale that we could barely see. Crossing this
+depression we reached a small creek at the foot of the second mountain
+from the north (now Mt. Pennell), and climbed its slope seventeen
+hundred feet to a beautiful spring, where we camped, with plenty of fine
+grass for the famished horses. We had at last traversed the unknown to
+the unknown, and felt well satisfied with our success. If it had ever
+been done before by white men there was no knowledge of it.
+
+The temperature was so low that water froze in the camp kettles, and
+next morning, June 18th, the thermometer stood at 28° F., with the water
+of the little brook running from the spring at 37° F. After breakfast
+Prof., Jack, and Dodds climbed the mountain on which we were camped,
+running their aneroid out, while with Johnson I went down the slope
+north, crossed the pass, and climbed the first mountain (now Mt. Ellen,
+after Mrs. Thompson). A severe snow-storm set in, and when we had
+finally attained a point where our aneroid indicated 11,200 feet above
+sea-level, we were obliged to turn back because of the lateness of the
+hour and having no coats, no food, or water. When we reached camp on the
+other mountain night had come. Andy had been trying to cook some beans,
+but the high altitude prevented the water from getting hot enough and
+the operation was incomplete.[30] I foolishly ate some of the beans,
+being very hungry, with the result that I was sick for the first time on
+the expedition, suffering a horrible stomach-ache. Though not disabled I
+was extremely uncomfortable. In the morning we started to go around
+north through the pass to the east side of the mountain, and I ran in
+the trail as usual, mounting and dismounting many times, till I was
+extremely glad after eight miles when we came to the head of a little
+creek and stopped to enable Prof. to climb the third peak (Mt. Hillers)
+for observations. While he was gone I was content to lie still in the
+shade of a bush, and finally lost my pain in sleep. Prof. got back so
+late that we camped where we were, much to my satisfaction. The view
+from our camp was extensive and magnificent, the whole Dirty Devil
+region lying open, like a book, below us.
+
+We were striking for the creek up which Prof. and Cap. had come the year
+before from the river, for we knew that from its mouth we could easily
+get to where our _Cañonita_ was cached. The next day, June 20th, we
+continued down Trachyte Creek, as Prof. called it, till four o'clock,
+passing many old camps and grazing grounds, when we halted for Prof. to
+climb to a height. The outlook there showed him that this was not the
+stream whose canyon below we wanted to descend to the river, so the
+following morning he took Dodds and reconnoitred, the latter after a
+while returning with orders for us to come on eastward to another
+canyon. We left Trachyte Creek and reached Prof. at two o'clock. He had
+prospected a trail, or rather a way, to descend into the canyon over the
+smooth bare sandstone across which we wound back and forth for a mile,
+constantly going down into the strange, weird depths till at last we
+reached the creek bed, where a short distance below we went into camp in
+a beautiful green cottonwood grove, with enormous pockets of good water
+close by. By seven o'clock in the morning of the 22d we were going on
+down the deep, narrow canyon, and arrived at the Colorado at half-past
+ten. The river was at least fifteen feet higher than last year, and
+rushed by with a majestic power that was impressive. Our first unusual
+incident was when Prof.'s horse, in trying to drink from a soft bank,
+dropped down into the swift current and gave us half an hour's difficult
+work to get him out. When we had eaten dinner we all went up to the
+mouth of the Dirty Devil, where we had stored the _Cañonita_, and
+rejoiced to find her lying just as we left her, except that the water
+had risen to that level and washed away one of the oars. We caulked the
+boat temporarily, launched her once more on the sweeping tide, and in
+two minutes were at our camp, where we hauled her out for the repairs
+necessary to make her sound for the run to the Paria.
+
+Sunday was the next day, June 23d, and while the others rested I plotted
+in the trail by which we had crossed to this place so that Prof. could
+take it out with him, as he decided that Jack, Johnson, Fennemore, and I
+were to take the boat down, while he, Andy, and Dodds would go back
+overland to meet Jones and George Adair at the foot of Potato Valley. At
+five o'clock they left us, going up the same canyon we had come down and
+which we called Lost Creek Canyon, now Crescent Creek. The next day we
+recaulked and painted the boat, and I put the name _Cañonita_ in red
+letters on the stern and a red star on each side of the bow. By
+Wednesday the 26th she was all ready and we put her in the water and ran
+down four miles to the large Shinumo house. Jack rowed the stern oars,
+Johnson the bow, I steered, while Fennemore sat on the middle deck. The
+high water completely obliterated the aggravating shoals which had
+bothered us the year before, and we had no work at all except to steer
+or to land, the current carrying us along at a good pace. We stopped
+occasionally for pictures and notes and got about everything that Jack
+and Fennemore wanted in the line of photographs. The Fourth of July we
+celebrated by firing fourteen rounds, and I made a lemon cake and a
+peach-pie for dinner. On Sunday the 8th we passed the mouth of the
+stream that had been mistaken for the Dirty Devil, and which Prof. had
+named Escalante River. It was narrow and shallow and would not be taken
+at its mouth for so important a tributary. The next day we passed the
+San Juan which was running a very large stream, and camped at the Music
+Temple, where I cut Jack's name and mine under those of the Howlands and
+Dunn. The rapid below was dashing but easy and we ran it without
+stopping to examine. On Friday the 12th we came to El Vado and dug up a
+cache we had made there the year before. Our rations for some time were
+nothing but bread and coffee, and we were glad to see the Echo Peaks and
+then run in at the mouth of the Paria on Saturday, July 13th, with the
+expectation of finding men and supplies. The _Dean_ was lying high and
+dry on the bank and we wondered who had taken her from her
+hiding-place. Firing our signal shots and receiving no answer, Jack and
+I went up the Paria, crossing it on a log, and saw a cabin and a farm on
+the west side. This we knew must be Lee's. He was ploughing in a field,
+and when he first sighted us he seemed a little startled, doubtless
+thinking we might be officers to arrest him. One of his wives, Rachel,
+went into the cabin not far off and peered out at us. She was a fine
+shot as I afterwards learned. Lee received us pleasantly and invited us
+to take our meals at his house till our party came. As we had nothing
+but bread and coffee and not much of these we accepted. The fresh
+vegetables out of the garden, which his other wife, Mrs. Lee
+XVIII., served nicely cooked, seemed the most delicious food
+that could be prepared. Mrs. Lee XVIII. was a stout, comely
+young woman of about twenty-five, with two small children, and seemed to
+be entirely happy in the situation. The other wife, whose number I did
+not learn, left before dark for a house they had at Jacob's Pool and I
+never saw her again.
+
+[Illustration: Example of Lakes on the Aquarius Plateau.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers.]
+
+Lee had worked hard since his arrival early in the year and now had his
+farm in fairly good order with crops growing, well irrigated by the
+water he took out of the Paria. He called the place Lonely Dell, and it
+was not a misnomer. Johnson made arrangements to go to Kanab the next
+day, as he concluded that his health would not permit him to go through
+the Grand Canyon with us, so this was our last night with him. Lee gave
+me his own version of the Mountain Meadows Massacre claiming that he
+really had nothing to do with it and had tried to stop it, and when he
+could not do so he went to his house and cried. The Pai Utes ever after
+called him Naguts or Crybaby.[31]
+
+In the morning, Sunday, July 14th, Johnson departed with Lee and we
+expected someone to arrive to bring us news of the Major and Prof., but
+the sun went down once more without any message. We felt sure that Prof.
+got out of the Dirty Devil country without accident, but we wanted some
+definite information of it and we also desired to know when we would
+resume the canyon voyage. On Monday having nothing else to do we took
+some hoes and worked in Lee's garden till near noon, when we heard yells
+which proved to come from Andy and Clem with a waggon needing some help
+over bad places. We soon had the waggon in a good spot under some
+willows and there speedily ransacked it for mail, spending the rest of
+the day reading letters and newspapers. Andy told us that Prof. had
+reached Kanab with no trouble of any kind. Mrs. Lee XVIII., or
+Sister Emma, as she would in Utah properly be called, invited us to
+dinner and supper, and the next day we worked in the garden again,
+repaired the irrigating ditch, and helped about the place in a general
+way, glad enough to have some occupation even though the sun was burning
+hot and the thermometer stood at 110° in the shade. Almost every day we
+did some work in the garden and we also repaired the irrigating dam.
+
+Our camp was across the Paria down by the Colorado, and when Brother Lee
+came back the following Sunday he called to give us a lengthy
+dissertation on the faith of the Latter-Day Saints (Mormons), while
+Andy, always up to mischief, in his quiet way, delighted to get behind
+him and cock a rifle. At the sound of the ominous click Lee would wheel
+like a flash to see what was up. We had no intention of capturing him,
+of course, but it amused Andy to act in a way that kept Lee on the _qui
+vive_. We got the _Nell_ out of her shed and found her in very bad
+condition, while the _Dean_ was about as we had left her. Andy and Jack
+went to work on the _Dean_ and in a few days had her in excellent trim.
+On July 24th, which is the day the Mormons celebrate for the settlement
+of Salt Lake Valley, Lee invited us to dinner and supper, which gave us
+a very pleasant time. So far as our intercourse with Lee was concerned
+we had no cause for complaint. He was genial, courteous, and generous.
+
+A copy of DeForrest's _Overland_ was in camp and I whiled away some
+hours reading it, but time began to hang heavily upon us and we daily
+longed for the appearance of the rest of the party so that we might push
+out on the great red flood that moved irresistibly down into the maw of
+Marble Canyon, and end the uncertainty that lay before us. August the
+first came and still no message. Fennemore now felt so sick that Jack
+took him to Lee's with rations in order that he might have vegetables
+with his meals with the hope that he would recover, but he grew worse,
+and on August 4th he decided that he would return to his home in Salt
+Lake. We concluded that one of us must go to Kanab to inform Prof. of
+the state of affairs, and Clem in his big-hearted way offered to do
+this, but we knew that his sense of locality was defective and that he
+might get lost. Consequently we played on him an innocent trick which I
+may now tell as he long ago went "across the range." I planned with Andy
+that we three were to draw cuts for the honour of the ride and that Andy
+was to let me draw the fatal one. Clem was greatly disappointed. Jack
+went on a chase after Nig and ran him down about sunset, for Nig was the
+most diplomatic mule that ever lived. Having no saddle I borrowed one
+from Lee who let me have it dubiously as he feared we might be laying
+some trap. I gave him my word that while I had his saddle no man of ours
+would molest him, and furthermore that they would befriend him. I rode
+away while he remarked that in the rocks he could defy an army, with
+regret still in his eyes, though he accepted my pledge. I got out a few
+miles before dark and slept by the roadside, with the distant murmur of
+rapids speaking to me of the turmoil we were soon to pass through. By
+noon of the next day I was at Jacob's Pool, by half-past three at House
+Rock Spring, and at night in Summit Valley where I camped. The day was
+so hot that I could hardly bear my hand on my rifle barrel as it lay
+across my saddle. My lunch of jerked beef and bread I ate as I rode
+along thus losing no time.
+
+The trail across the Kaibab was not often travelled, and it was dim and
+hard to follow, a faint horse track showing here and there, so I lost it
+several times but quickly picked it up again, and finally came out of
+the forest where I could see all the now familiar country to the west
+and north. About two o'clock I arrived at Kanab and rode to Jacob's
+house where Sister Louisa told me that the Major, Prof., Mrs. Thompson,
+Professor De Motte, and George Adair had left that very morning for the
+south end of the Kaibab on the way to the Paria, and that Jones and
+Lyman Hamblin the day before had started for the Paria with a waggon
+load of supplies drawn by a team of four broncho mules. Nig being very
+tired I thought I would rest till morning, when he rewarded my
+consideration by eluding me till ten o'clock. This gave me so late a
+start that it was dark and rainy when I descended the east side of the
+Kaibab, and I had to drag Nig down the 2000 feet in the gloom over
+boulders, bushes, ledges, or anything else that came, for I could see
+only a few feet and could not keep the trail. I reached House Rock
+Spring at last and camped there. In the morning I discovered Jones and
+Lyman down in the valley and joined them for breakfast, after which I
+helped them start. This was no easy matter, for the four mules they had
+in harness, with one exception, were as wild as mountain sheep, having
+only recently been broken. Jones had been badly kicked three times, his
+hands were burned by the ropes, and there was a lively time whenever the
+excited animals were put to the waggon. The road was new, only a waggon
+track in reality, and the mules became more and more docile through
+exhaustion as the day went on. At night they were far safer to handle
+than in the morning.
+
+July 9th about dark we arrived at Lonely Dell, Lee stealing suspiciously
+in behind where I was walking, to ask me who the men were and what they
+wanted. We had a joyful time, especially as Steward had sent out a large
+box of fine candy which we found in the mail and opened at once. Four
+days later the Major and his party came from the Kaibab and we had
+venison for supper. The Major said we would go on down the Colorado as
+soon as possible though the water was still very high.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon
+
+Near mouth of Shinumo Creek
+
+The river is in flood and the water is "colorado." Sketch made in colour
+on the spot by F. S. Dellenbaugh. July 26, 1907.]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 30: We had not yet learned to put a tight cover on the bean
+pot, and then by means of a big stone on the cover and a hot fire create
+an artificial atmosphere within it, thus raising the temperature.]
+
+[Footnote 31: Lee was executed for the crime five years later, 1877.
+Others implicated were not punished, the execution of Lee "closing the
+incident."]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+     A Company of Seven.--The _Nellie Powell_ Abandoned.--Into
+     Marble Canyon.--Vasey's Paradise.--A Furious Descent to the
+     Little Colorado.--A Mighty Fall in the Dismal Granite
+     Gorge.--Caught in a Trap.--Upside Down.--A Deep Plunge and a
+     Predicament.--At the Mouth of the Kanab.
+
+
+We now missed Steward, Cap, and Beaman more than ever, for we had been
+unable to get anyone to take their places. The fact was our prospective
+voyage through Marble and Grand canyons was considered almost a forlorn
+hope and nobody cared to take the risk. The plan had been to give me the
+steering of the _Cañonita_, but now with three boats and only seven to
+man them it was plain that one must be abandoned. An examination of them
+all showed that the _Nellie Powell_ was in the poorest condition and she
+was chosen for the sacrifice. She was put back in her shelter being
+afterwards used by Lee for a desultory ferry business, that developed.
+About ten days before our arrival, the _Dean_ had been discovered by a
+newspaper man named J. H. Beadle, and used to cross to the north side
+where he left her. This was how she happened to be there when we came.
+Beadle had denounced Lee and the Mormons in print and tried to conceal
+his identity by assuming the name of Hanson, a plan frustrated by his
+having some clothes, marked with his own name, laundered by Sister
+Emma. Lee was only amused by the incident. The _Dean_ was to be manned
+by the same crew as before; Jones to steer, Jack at the after oars, I at
+the forward pair, and the Major in his usual place on the middle deck.
+The _Cañonita_ was to have Prof. as steersman, Andy at the stroke oars,
+and Clem in the bow, Clem having gotten all over his inclination to
+leave and being determined now to see the end of the voyage before he
+departed.
+
+The same day that the Major and his party arrived, Jack and I, with
+Jones steering, tried the _Dean_ by taking Mrs. Thompson, Professor
+DeMotte, and Lyman Hamblin up the river so that they might see what a
+canyon was like from a boat. Mrs. Thompson was so enthusiastic that she
+declared she wanted to accompany us. Prof. took her as passenger on the
+_Cañonita_ about half-past four on Wednesday, August 14th, when we had
+completed the sacking and packing of provisions, and with both boats ran
+down through a small rapid or two about a mile and a half, where we
+camped at the mouth of a little canyon down which the waggon-road came.
+Mrs. Thompson enjoyed the exhilaration of descending the swift rushing
+water and still thought it attractive. I went to Lee's and brought down
+the Major's arm-chair for our boat, and saw Fennemore who was very sick.
+We made our final preparations at this point, and I spent most of
+Thursday morning helping the Major get his papers in order so that if we
+did not appear again his affairs could be readily settled. This required
+considerable writing, which I did, for the Major wrote slowly with his
+left hand, the only one he had. We dined with Lee, having the first
+watermelon of the season for dessert. Lee was most cordial and we could
+not have asked better treatment than he gave us the whole time we were
+at Lonely Dell. In the afternoon our land outfit left for Kanab and we
+said a last good-bye to the men, who looked as if they never expected to
+see us again. Only the "Tirtaan Aigles" remained, and there were but
+seven of these now. The next day we put the finishing touches on the
+boats, and while we were doing this our late fellow voyageur Beaman, and
+a companion named Carleton, passed on their way to the Moki Towns where
+Beaman wanted to make photographs. All being ready the next day,
+Saturday, August 17th, we pushed out on the mighty Colorado about nine
+o'clock and by noon ran into Marble Canyon, nearly five miles, passing
+one small rapid and another of considerable size on a river about one
+hundred feet wide and extremely swift, with straight walls rapidly
+increasing from the fifty feet or so at the Paria. Marble Canyon while
+differing in name is but the upper continuation of the Grand Canyon,
+there being no line of demarkation other than a change in geological
+structure and the entrance of the canyon of the Little Colorado. The
+combined length of the two divisions is 283 miles and the declivity is
+very great. The altitude of the mouth of the Paria is 3170 feet, while
+the Grand Wash at the end of the Grand Canyon is 840 feet, leaving a
+descent of 2330 feet still before us.
+
+At our dinner camp, which was on a talus on the left, the walls were
+about 500 feet and quite precipitous, but I was able to climb out on the
+right to get a view of the surroundings. After dinner we went on in our
+usual order, our boat the _Dean_ in advance and the _Cañonita_
+following. The photographing now devolved entirely on Jack and Clem;
+Andy as usual ran the culinary branch of the expedition, Jones and Prof.
+meandered the river. We had not gone far after dinner before we were
+close upon a bad-looking rapid, a drop of about eighteen feet in a
+distance of 225, which we concluded to defeat by means of a portage on
+the right-hand bank. As we knew exactly what to do no time was wasted
+and we were soon below, sweeping on with a stiff current which brought
+us, in about ten miles from our morning start and five from the noon
+halt, to a far worse rapid than the last, a fall of twenty-five feet in
+four or five hundred, with very straight walls six hundred feet high on
+both sides. The Major concluded to leave the passage of it till the next
+day, and we went into camp at the head. This was the rapid where
+disaster fell on the miners, ten in number, who in the spring had stolen
+a lot of our things at the Paria and started down prospecting on a raft.
+They saved their lives but not another thing, and after a great deal of
+hard work they succeeded by means of driftwood ladders in climbing to
+the top of the walls and made their way to the settlement. This is now
+called Soap Creek Rapid, being at the mouth of the canyon by which the
+little stream of that name reaches the river,--a little stream which at
+times is a mighty torrent. In a small rapid following or in the final
+portion of this, I believe, is the place where Frank M. Brown, leader of
+the Denver, Colorado Canyon, and Pacific Railway Survey, was drowned in
+1889.
+
+We began work on Sunday, August 18th, by making the portage and had no
+trouble of any kind, Jack and Clem making some photographs before we
+finally said good-bye to the place. Continuing on our way we found the
+river very narrow, not over seventy-five feet in many places and ranging
+from that to two hundred, with frequent whirlpools strong enough to
+swing our boats entirely around. Before dinner-time we had put five
+large rapids behind, and then we halted under a ledge on the left a
+short distance above a very ugly and difficult prospect. There was an
+exceedingly heavy descent and a soft sandstone being at the river margin
+it was worn away, giving little chance for a footing by which to make a
+portage. The Major and Prof. decided that we could run it safely, and
+after dinner we shot into it, both boats going through in fine style.
+Just below was another smaller one that was vanquished easily, and we
+went swiftly on down the swirling, booming current. Rain fell at
+intervals to continue our saturation, and with four more rapids, all of
+which we ran, one having quite a heavy fall, there was little chance for
+us to dry out. At one point we passed an enormous rock which had dropped
+from the cliffs overhead and almost blocked the whole river. Then we
+arrived at a huge rapid whose angry tones cried so distinctly, "No
+running through here," that we did not hesitate but began a let down
+forthwith, and when that was accomplished we camped at the foot of it
+for the night, having come eleven and three-eighths miles during the
+day. The rapid was extremely noisy and the roaring reverberated back and
+forth from cliff to cliff as it ascended to the top, 1800 feet, to
+escape into the larger air. The walls had two or three terraces and were
+not over three quarters of a mile apart at the summit, the cliff
+portions being nearly or quite perpendicular. The rocks, of all sizes,
+which were legion at each rapid, were frequently dovetailed into each
+other by the action of the current and so neatly joined in a serrated
+line that they were practically one.
+
+[Illustration: Thompson
+
+Marble Canyon.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.]
+
+The rapidity with which the water went down and the walls went up as we
+cut into the plateau gave a vivid impression of descending into the very
+bowels of the earth, and this impression seemed daily to intensify. On
+Monday, August 19th, the same conditions prevailed, the walls being of
+marble mostly vertical from the water's edge for about seven hundred
+feet, and then rising by four terraces to two thousand feet, all stained
+red by the disintegration of iron-stained rocks overhead though the
+marble is a grey colour. We only made four and one-quarter miles and
+established Camp 90 on the left, just below a big rapid and in sight of
+another, with a record for the whole day of four rapids run, three
+passed by let-downs, and one overcome by a portage. The next day we did
+not accomplish a much greater distance, only about nine miles, but we
+were highly successful in our encounters with the enemy, running no less
+than twelve big rapids and making a portage at another to round out the
+dozen on the baker's proverbial basis. The average width of the canyon
+at the top was about one and a quarter miles, while the breadth of the
+water itself plunging along the bottom was not more than 125 feet, and
+the total height of wall was 2500 feet. We had marble at the river
+margin most of the day, a greyish crystalline rock fluted
+multitudinously in places by the action of high water and sometimes
+polished like glass. While this was a grey rock the entire effect of the
+canyon, for the reason stated above, was red. On the right bank we made
+our camp on some sand at the mouth of a gulch, and immediately put on
+our dry clothes from the boats. Not far below on the same side was what
+appeared to be a vast ruined tower. Around the indentations which
+answered for crumbling windows bunches of mosses and ferns were draped,
+while from the side, about one hundred feet up from the river, clear
+springs broke forth to dash down amidst verdure in silvery skeins. The
+whole affair formed a striking and unusual picture, the only green that
+so far had been visible in the canyon landscape, for the walls from
+brink to river were absolutely barren of trees or any apparent
+vegetation. On the former trip the Major had named the place after a
+botanist friend of his, Vasey's (Vaysey) Paradise, and this was now
+recorded in our notes. All day long we had seen in the magnificent walls
+besides caverns and galleries resemblances to every form of
+architectural design, turrets, forts, balconies, castles, and a thousand
+strange and fantastic suggestions from the dark tower against which
+Childe Roland with his slug-horn blew defiance, to the airy structures
+evolved by the wonderful lamp of Aladdin.
+
+Starting down again on Wednesday morning we ran past the Paradise and
+heard a little bird singing there amidst the spray and mosses, a
+delicate note seeming out of place amidst such gigantic desolation. Only
+the boom of great cannon or the tone of some enormous organ pipe would
+be correct with the surroundings. The walls at the water's edge were
+vertical for long distances up to eight hundred feet, and being now in
+all about three thousand feet and not a great ways apart, the outlook
+ahead was something almost overpowering in its deep suggestion of
+mysterious and untold realms to come. On the first voyage it would have
+been easy to persuade oneself that the river was soon to become
+subterranean, but the Major having solved the enigma, we could look with
+indifference on the threatening prospect. Yet the walls nevertheless
+seemed to have a determination to close together overhead as we looked
+down the descending waters before us, with cliff mounting on cliff and
+the distance from one to the other appearing so very small. Deep and
+sombre were the shadows at the bends, and the imagination needed no spur
+to picture there rapids, falls, cataracts, of giant proportions. We made
+nearly eleven miles and ran ten very big rapids, meeting with no
+accident, though one was particularly violent and filled us half full of
+water in the fierce breakers. The stage of water was exactly right for
+this stretch; a lower stage would certainly have given us far more
+trouble. Our stop for the night, Camp 92, was made on a wide sandbank on
+the left, with some mesquite growing nearby, our first acquaintance with
+this tree on the river. We now were getting on so well and were so
+comfortable that we felt quite happy and Jack as usual entertained us
+with several songs. The next day, Thursday the 22d, Jack and Clem took
+some photographs in the morning and I hunted fossils for the Major in
+the limestone shales which had run up under the marble. By nine o'clock
+we were packed up again in our usual good form, everything in the rubber
+sacks, hatches firmly battened down, life-preservers ready, and we set
+forth for another day's battle. There were numerous large rapids and the
+impetuous river, turbid and grim, rushed down with a continuity that
+kept us alert every instant. Though we descended with terrific velocity,
+nothing gave us any particular trouble before dinner, which we ate in
+the shade of a mesquite on the right at the mouth of a couple of giant
+gulches. Here we discovered a large patch of cacti loaded with the red
+prickly pears or cactus apples, as we called them. They were
+ripe,--seeming to me to be half way between a fig and a tomato,--and
+very welcome for dessert, as we had eaten no fresh fruit since a
+watermelon brought along as far as the first noon camp. All the
+vegetation was different from that of the upper canyons and of a kind
+indicating a hotter climate; cacti, yucca, etc. In the afternoon the
+walls became greater, the river ran swifter, the descent seemed almost
+without a break, for rapid followed rapid in such quick succession that
+it was next to impossible to separate them one from another. At times we
+could barely maintain control of the boats so powerful and uninterrupted
+was the turbulent sweep of the great narrow flood. At one place as we
+were being hurled along at a tremendous speed we suddenly perceived
+immediately ahead of us and in such a position that we could not avoid
+dashing into it, a fearful commotion of the waters, indicating many
+large rocks near the surface. The Major stood on the middle deck, his
+life-preserver in place, and holding by his left hand to the arm of the
+well secured chair to prevent being thrown off by the lurching of the
+boat, peered into the approaching maelstrom. It looked to him like the
+end for us and he exclaimed calmly, "By God, boys, we're gone!" With
+terrific impetus we sped into the seething, boiling turmoil, expecting
+to feel a crash and to have the _Dean_ crumble beneath us, but instead
+of that unfortunate result she shot through smoothly without a scratch,
+the rocks being deeper than appeared by the disturbance on the surface.
+We had no time to think over this agreeable delivery, for on came the
+rapids or rather other rough portions of the unending declivity
+requiring instant and continuous attention, the Major rapidly giving the
+orders, Left, right, hard on the right, steady, hard on the left, _hard
+on the left_, h-a-r-d on the left, pull away strong, etc.,
+Jones aiding our oars by his long steering sweep. Rowing for progress
+was unnecessary; the oars were required only for steering or for pulling
+as fast as we could to avoid some bad place.
+
+At the same time the walls constantly gained height as the torrent cut
+down its bed till both together, with the rapidity of our movement,
+fairly made one dizzy. In turning a bend we saw back through a gulch the
+summit of the Kaibab's huge cliffs, the total height above our heads
+being over five thousand feet; a sublime vista. The immediate walls of
+Marble Canyon were here about 3500 feet, not all vertical but rising in
+buttresses, terraces, and perpendicular faces, while immediately at the
+river they were now generally flanked by talus or broken ledges giving
+ample footing, as seen in the illustration opposite page 219. Words are
+not adequate to describe this particular day in Marble Canyon; it must
+be experienced to be appreciated and I will not strive further to convey
+my impressions. As the sun sank to the western edge of the outer world
+we were rushing down a long straight stretch of canyon, and the colossal
+precipices looming on all sides, as well as dead ahead across our
+pathway, positively appeared about to overwhelm the entire river by
+their ponderous magnificence, burnished at their summits by the dying
+sun. On, down the headlong flood our faithful boats carried us to the
+gloom that seemed to be the termination of all except subterranean
+progress, but at the very bottom of this course there was a bend to the
+west, and we found ourselves at the mouth of a deep side canyon coming
+in from the east, with a small stream flowing into the big river. This
+was the mouth of the Little Colorado and the end at last of Marble
+Canyon, one of the straightest, deepest, narrowest, and most majestic
+chasms of the whole long series. It also had more wall rising vertically
+from the water's edge than any other canyon we had encountered.
+
+Our distance for the day was eighteen miles with eighteen rapids, one
+nearly three miles long and all following each other so closely they
+were well-nigh continuous. We ran seventeen and made one let-down. It
+was a glorious day and a fitting preparation for our entrance into the
+next stupendous canyon which the Major styled the "Sockdologer of the
+World," the now famous Grand Canyon.[32] Our altitude was 2690 feet,
+giving a descent in the sixty-five and one-half miles of Marble Canyon
+of 480 feet, leaving 1850 feet still to be overcome before we could
+reach the mouth of the Grand Wash and the end of the Grand Canyon. I
+counted sixty-three rapids in Marble Canyon, Prof. sixty-nine. We made
+four portages and let down by line six times.
+
+[Illustration: Canyon of the Little Colorado.
+
+Photograph by C. Barthelmess.]
+
+Our Camp 93 was on the left bank of the Little Colorado, and there we
+remained for Friday, August 23d, to reconnoitre the neighbourhood, and
+to give Prof. an opportunity to get the latitude and longitude. The
+Little Colorado was a red stream about sixty feet wide and four or five
+deep, salty and impossible to drink. The Great Colorado was also muddy
+and not altogether palatable, for one's hand dipped in and allowed to
+dry became encrusted with sediment; but the water otherwise was pure.
+The river had been rapidly rising for several days and was still coming
+up so that we were likely to have in the Grand Canyon more water than we
+required. I climbed up the wall on the north side of the Little Colorado
+thinking I might be able to reach the summit, but when about half-way up
+I met vast and vertical heights that were impossible and returned to
+camp. The next morning, Saturday, August 24th, we packed up and entered
+the Grand Canyon proper on an easy river, making about five miles in
+half an hour and putting behind six rapids all small, camping at the
+head of one that was more threatening. Here a little creek came in from
+the right, or west, near camp. The canyon was wider than above, and we
+could see the summits around that were six thousand feet above the
+river, but some miles back. In the morning I made a geological sketch,
+and in the afternoon I climbed a high peak and put in some of the
+topography. The next morning we crossed the river to examine a large
+igneous butte where we found a small vein of copper ore, and after
+dinner Prof. and I climbed a couple of peaks and did some triangulating.
+Monday the 26th found us still at Camp 94 to further investigate the
+surroundings, and the Major, Prof., Jones, and I climbed up on the north
+about 2600 feet in order to get a better idea of the several valleys
+which here seemed to compose the bottom of the great chasm, and did not
+reach camp till after dark. Everything now developed on a still larger
+and grander scale; we saw before us an enormous gorge, very wide at the
+top, which could engulf an ordinary mountain range and lose it within
+its vast depths and ramifications. Multitudinous lofty mesas, buttes,
+and pinnacles began to appear, each a mighty mountain in itself, but
+more or less overwhelmed by the greater grandeur of the Cyclopean
+environment.
+
+Tuesday, August 27th, after Prof. had put a new tube in the second
+barometer which had somehow been broken, we pushed off once more to see
+what the day would develop. The rapid just below camp we ran through
+easily and then made swift progress for seven miles, running nine more
+rapids, two rather bad ones. The _Cañonita_ grounded once on a shoal but
+got off without damage. Where we stopped for dinner we caught sight of
+two mountain sheep drinking, and Andy and I got our guns out of the
+cabins as quickly as possible and started after them, but they flew away
+like birds of the air. Near this point there was a small abandoned hut
+of mesquite logs. We went into camp farther down on the left for
+investigations, the Major and I going up the river and finding a small
+salty creek which we followed for a time on an old trail, the Major
+studying the geology and collecting specimens of the rocks, which we
+carried back to camp, arriving after dark. The geology and topography
+here were complicated and particularly interesting, and we ought to have
+been able to spend more days, but the food question, as well as time,
+was a determining factor in our movements, and with only two boats our
+rations would carry us with necessary stops only to the mouth of the
+Kanab Canyon where our pack-train would meet us on September 4th. There
+was no other place above Diamond Creek known at that time, except
+perhaps the spot near Mount Trumbull, where supplies could be brought
+in. On Wednesday we ran two or three miles and stopped for our
+photographers to get some views opposite a rust-coloured sandstone. We
+also had dinner at this place and then continued the descent. After
+running four rapids successfully, making a let-down at another, and a
+portage over the upper end of a sixth we were ready, having made in all
+six miles, to go into camp part way down the last, one of the heaviest
+falls we had so far encountered. It was perhaps half a mile long, with a
+declivity of at least forty feet, studded by numerous enormous boulders.
+A heavy rain began during our work of getting below, and our clothes
+being already wet the air became very chilly. We had to carry the
+cargoes only a short distance, with no climbing, and there was ample
+room so the portage was not difficult in that respect. But though we
+could manoeuvre the empty boats down along the shore amidst the big
+rocks, they were exceedingly heavy for our small band, and in sliding
+them down between the huge masses, with the water pouring around and
+often into them, we sometimes had as much as we could do to manage them,
+each man being obliged to strain his muscle to the limit. Jack from this
+cause hurt his back so badly that he could not lift at all, and overcome
+by the sudden weakness and pain he came near sinking into the swift
+river at the stern of the _Dean_ where he happened at the moment to be
+working. I heard his cry and clambered over to seize him as quickly as I
+could, helping him to shore, where we did all that was possible for his
+comfort. As we were going no farther that day he was able to rest, and
+in the morning felt much better, though his back was still weak. Andy
+took his place in our boat to run the lower end of the rapid, which was
+easily done. We landed below on the same side, enabling Andy to go back
+to help bring down the _Cañonita_, while Jack walked along the rocks to
+where we were. Here we remained for a couple of hours while I climbed up
+for the Major and measured the "Red Beds," and Jack rested again,
+improving very fast. When we were ready to go on his trouble had almost
+disappeared.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+From just below the Little Colorado.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.]
+
+A dark granite formation had run up at the foot of the last fall and it
+rose rapidly higher, hemming the water in with steep, forbidding cliffs
+close together. The river became much narrower and swirled with an
+oily-looking current around the buttresses of granite that thrust
+themselves from one side or the other into it. The declivity was not
+great and the torrent was otherwise placid. After three miles of this
+ominous docility, just as the dinner hour was near and the threatening
+black granite had risen to one thousand feet above the water, we heard a
+deep, sullen roar ahead and from the boats the whole river seemed to
+vanish instantly from earth. At once we ran in on the right to a small
+area of great broken rocks that protruded above the water at the foot of
+the wall, and stepping out on these we could look down on one of the
+most fearful places I ever saw or ever hope to see under like
+circumstances,--a place that might have been the Gate to Hell that
+Steward had mentioned. We were near the beginning of a tremendous fall.
+The narrow river dropped suddenly and smoothly away, and then, beaten to
+foam, plunged and boomed for a third of a mile through a descent of from
+eighty to one hundred feet, the enormous waves leaping twenty or thirty
+feet into the air and sending spray twice as high.[33] On each side were
+the steep, ragged granitic walls, with the tumultuous waters lashing and
+pounding against them in a way that precluded all idea of portage or
+let-down. It needed no second glance to tell us that there was only one
+way of getting below. If the rocks did not stop us we could "cross to
+Killiloo," and when a driving rain had ceased Andy gathered the few
+sticks of driftwood available for a fire, by which he prepared some
+dinner in advance of the experiment. Jack and Clem took three negatives,
+and when the dinner was disposed of we stowed all loose articles snugly
+away in the cabins, except a camp-kettle in each standing-room to bail
+with, and then battening down the hatches with extra care, and making
+everything shipshape, we pulled the _Dean_ up-stream, leaving the
+_Cañonita_ and her crew to watch our success or failure and profit by
+it. The Major had on his life-preserver and so had Jones, but Jack and I
+put ours behind our seats, where we could catch them up quickly, for
+they were so large we thought they impeded the handling of the oars.
+Jack's back had fortunately now recovered, so that he was able to row
+almost his usual stroke. We pulled up-stream about a quarter of a mile
+close to the right-hand wall, in order that we might get well into the
+middle of the river before making the great plunge, and then we turned
+our bow out and secured the desired position as speedily as possible,
+heading down upon the roaring enemy--roaring as if it would surely
+swallow us at one gulp.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+Running the Sockdologer.
+
+From a sketch afterwards by F. S. Dellenbaugh.]
+
+My back being towards the fall I could not see it, for I could not turn
+round while waiting every instant for orders. Nearer and nearer came
+the angry tumult; the Major shouted "Back water!" there was a sudden
+dropping away of all support; then the mighty waves smote us. The boat
+rose to them well, but we were flying at twenty-five miles an hour and
+at every leap the breakers rolled over us. "Bail!" shouted the
+Major,--"Bail for your lives!" and we dropped the oars to bail, though
+bailing was almost useless. The oars could not get away, for they had
+rawhide rings nailed around near the handle to prevent them from
+slipping through the rowlocks. The boat rolled and pitched like a ship
+in a tornado, and as she flew along Jack and I, who faced backwards,
+could look up under the canopies of foam pouring over gigantic black
+boulders, first on one side, then on the other. Why we did not land on
+top of one of these and turn over I don't know, unless it might be that
+the very fury of the current causes a recoil. However that may be, we
+struck nothing but the waves, the boats riding finely and certainly
+leaping at times almost half their length out of water, to bury
+themselves quite as far at the next lunge. If you will take a watch and
+count by it ninety seconds, you will probably have about the time we
+were in this chaos, though it seemed much longer to me. Then we were
+through, and immediately took advantage of an eddy on one side to lie to
+and bail out, for the boat was full of water. Setting her to rights as
+quickly as we could, we got ready to make a dash for the crew of the
+_Cañonita_ in case she fared worse than we did. We looked anxiously for
+her to appear, and presently, at the top of what seemed to us now to be
+a straight wall of foam, her small white bulk hung for an instant and
+then vanished from our sight in the mad flood. Soon appearing at the
+bottom uninjured, she ran in to where we were waiting. The _Cañonita_,
+being lighter than our boat, did not ship as much water as in some other
+places, and altogether we agreed that notwithstanding its great descent
+and furious aspect the passage was not more difficult than we had made
+in several previous rapids.
+
+Continuing on down the narrow and gloomy granite gorge, we encountered
+about a mile farther down a singular rapid, which turned the _Cañonita_
+completely around. About four o'clock we found ourselves before another
+tremendous fall, and a very ugly one. Landing on the left, we discovered
+that to be the wrong side, and crossed over to a little cove where
+there was a patch of gravel, surrounded by vertical walls, the crossing
+being easily made because the water seemed to slacken before the plunge.
+We did not intend to run the place if it could be avoided, and the south
+side gave no opportunity whatever for a portage, while the north side
+offered no very easy course. Prof. declared this to be one of the worst
+rapids we had seen, and we were now about two hundred feet above the
+head of it, with the vertical cliffs between. Immediately at the
+beginning of the drop on the same side that we were on was a pile of
+boulders, and our plan was to engineer the boats by lines from where we
+had landed down to these rocks, from which we believed we could work
+around over the rocks into an alcove there was there, and thence go down
+till we reached the lower part of the descent, through which we could
+navigate. Consequently several of the men entered one boat, and we
+lowered her from the stern of the second as far as her line would reach,
+and then lowered the second till the first lodged in the rocks at the
+desired point at the head of the fall. Then, pulling up the second boat,
+we who had remained got on board, and by clinging to the projections of
+the wall, the current close in being quite slow, we succeeded in
+arriving alongside the first boat. The next thing was to get around into
+the alcove. The sky above was heavy and rain began to come down
+steadily, making the dark granite blacker and intensifying the gloomy
+character of the locality. By hard work we finally got our boats across
+the rocks and down about two hundred feet farther into a cove, where
+they rested easily. Up to this time we had made in all, during the day,
+seven and one-quarter miles. As night was now dropping fast we had to
+make camp on a pile of broken granite, where a close search yielded an
+armful or two of small pieces of driftwood, all wet. Under a rock
+several dry sticks were discovered, and by their aid a fire soon blazed
+up by which the indomitable Andy proceeded to get supper. There was no
+use changing wet clothes for dry ones from the rubber bags as long as
+the rain fell, and it increased till water was dashing off the walls in
+streams. The thunder roared and crashed as if it were knocking the
+cliffs about to rearrange them all, and a deluge swept down in which
+Andy's struggling little fire died with hardly a sputter. The only thing
+remaining for us to do was to all stand with our backs against the foot
+of the wall, which was still warm from the day, and wait for something
+else to happen. The bread-pan seen through the dim and dismal light was
+a tempestuous lake, with an island of dough in it, while Andy the
+undaunted stood grimly gazing at it, the rain dribbling from his hat and
+shoulders till he resembled the fabled ferryman of the River Styx. The
+situation was so ludicrous that every one laughed, and the Weather God
+finding that we were not downcast slackened the downpour immediately.
+Then we put some oars against the wall and stretched a paulin to protect
+our noble chef, who finally got the wet firewood once more ignited, and
+succeeded in getting the bread almost baked and the coffee nearly hot
+and some dried peaches almost stewed. The rain ceasing, we hurriedly
+donned dry clothes and applied ourselves to the destruction of these
+viands, which tasted better than might be imagined. Each man then took
+his blankets, and, selecting rocks that in his judgment were the
+softest, he went to sleep.
+
+There was another alcove about three hundred yards below our camp, and
+in the morning, Friday, August 30th, we proceeded to work our way down
+to this, several men clambering along a ledge about 150 feet above the
+water with the line, while I remained each time in the boat below with
+an oar to keep the bow in against the wall, so that she could not take
+the current on the wrong side--that is, on the side next to the
+wall--and cut out into the river. In this way we got both boats down to
+the alcove, whence we intended to pull out into the current and run the
+lower portion of the rapid. It was only noon when we reached the place,
+but then we discovered that both boats had been so pounded that they
+badly needed repairs--in fact, it was imperative to halt there for this
+purpose,--and we hauled them out on a patch of broken rocks, thirty or
+forty feet square, filling the curve of the alcove and bounded by
+vertical rocks and the river. While at work on them we happened to
+notice that the river was rapidly rising, and, setting a mark, the rate
+was found to be three feet an hour. The rocks on which we were standing
+and where all the cargo was lying were being submerged. We looked around
+for some way to get up the cliff, as it was now too late to think of
+leaving. About fifteen feet above the top of the rocks on which we were
+working there was a shelf five or six feet wide, to which some of the
+men climbed, and we passed up every article to them. When the repairs
+were done darkness was filling the great gorge. By means of lines from
+above and much hard lifting we succeeded in raising the boats up the
+side of the cliff, till they were four or five feet above the highest
+rocks of the patch on which we stood. This insured their safety for the
+time being, and if the river mounted to them we intended to haul them
+still higher. The next thing was to find a place to sleep. By walking
+out on a ledge from the shelf where our goods were we could turn a
+jutting point above the rushing river by clinging closely to the rocks,
+and walk back on a shelf on the other side to a considerable area of
+finely broken rocks, thirty feet above the torrent, where there was room
+enough for a camp. Rain fell at intervals, and the situation was
+decidedly unpromising. While Andy and the others were getting the cook
+outfit and rations around the point, I climbed the cliffs hunting for
+wood. I found small pieces of driftwood lodged behind mesquite bushes
+fully one hundred feet above the prevailing stage of water. I collected
+quite an armful of half-dead mesquite, which has the advantage of being
+so compact that it makes a fire hot as coal, and little is needed to
+cook by. Supper was not long in being despatched, and then, every man
+feeling about worn out, we put on dry clothes, the rain having ceased,
+and went to sleep on the rocks. Before doing so we climbed back to
+examine the boats, and found the river was not coming up farther, though
+it had almost completely covered the rocks.
+
+Saturday, the 21st of August, 1872, was about the gloomiest morning I
+ever saw. Rain was falling, the clouds hung low over our heads like a
+lid to the box-like chasm in the black, funereal granite enclosing us,
+while the roar of the big rapid seemed to be intensified. We felt like
+rats in a trap. Eating breakfast as quickly as possible, we got
+everything together again on the shelf and lowered the boats. Though the
+river was not rising, it beat and surged into the cove in a way that
+made the boats jump and bounce the moment they touched the water. To
+prevent their being broken by pounding, one man at each steadied them
+while the others passed down the sacks and instrument boxes. Then it was
+seen that either a new leak had sprung in the _Dean_ amidships or a hole
+had not been caulked, for a stream as wide as two fingers was spurting
+into the middle cabin. To repair her now meant hauling both boats back
+against the side of the cliff and spending another day in this trap,
+with the chance of the river rising much higher before night so that we
+might not be able to get away at all--at least not for days. For an
+instant the Major thought of pulling the boats out again, but as his
+quick judgment reviewed the conditions he exclaimed, "By God, we'll
+start! Load up!" It was the rarest thing for him to use an oath, and I
+remember only one other occasion when he did so--in Marble Canyon when
+he thought we were going to smash. We threw the things in as fast as we
+could, jammed a bag of flour against the leak in the _Dean_, battened
+down the hatches, threw our rifles into the bottom of the standing rooms
+where the water and sand washed unheeded over them, and jumped to our
+oars. The crew of the _Cañonita_ held our stern till the bow swung out
+into the river, and then at the signal Jack and I laid to with all our
+strength--to shoot clear of an enormous rock about fifty feet below
+against which the fierce current was dashing. The _Dean_ was so nearly
+water-logged that she was sluggish in responding to the oars, but we
+swept past the rock safely and rolled along down the river in the tail
+of the rapid with barely an inch of gunwale to spare,--in fact I thought
+the boat might sink. As soon as we saw a narrow talus on the right we
+ran in and landed.
+
+When the _Cañonita_ was ready to start one of Clem's oars could not be
+found, and Prof. had to delay to cut down one of the extras for him.
+Then they got their boat up as far as they could, and while Prof. and
+Andy kept her from pounding to pieces, Clem got in, bailed out, and took
+his oars. Prof. then climbed in at the stern, but the current was so
+strong that it pulled Andy off his feet and he was just able to get on,
+the boat drifting down stern first toward the big rock. Prof. concluded
+to let the stern strike and then try to throw the boat around into the
+river. By this time Andy had got hold of his oars, and the eddy seemed
+to carry them up-stream some twenty-five feet, so perverse and
+capricious is the Colorado. They swung the bow to starboard into the
+main current, and with a couple of strong oar-strokes the dreaded rock
+was cleared, and down the _Cañonita_ came to us over the long waves like
+a hunted deer. We unloaded the _Dean_ and pulled her out for repairs,
+but it was after four o'clock when we were able to go on again with a
+fairly tight boat. Then for eight miles the river was a continuous rapid
+broken by eight heavy falls, but luckily there were no rocks in any of
+them at this stage of water, and we were able to dash through one after
+another at top speed, stopping only once for examination. Two of these
+rapids were portages on the former trip, proving the ease and advantage
+of high water in some places; but the disadvantages are much greater.
+Through a very narrow canyon on the right we caught a glimpse of a
+pretty creek, but we were going so fast the view was brief and
+imperfect. At 5:15 o'clock we ran up to a wide sandbank on which grew a
+solitary willow tree and there Camp 99 was made. For a space the inner
+canyon was much wider than above and the mouth of Bright Angel Creek was
+just below us; a locality now well known because a trail from the Hotel
+Tovar on the south rim comes down at this point. The name was applied by
+the Major on his first trip to offset the name Dirty Devil applied
+farther up.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+From Top of Granite, South Side near Bright Angel Creek.]
+
+The next day was Sunday, September 1st, and after the Major had climbed
+the south wall for observations we started once more on a powerful
+current. For the first three miles there was a continuous rapid with no
+opportunity to land. We dashed through waves that tossed us badly and
+filled the boats half full and then half full again before we had a
+chance to bail. In fifteen minutes we made the three miles and a half
+mile more, to arrive at a heavy rapid, which we ran and in two miles
+reached another with fearful waves, which we also ran. In one Jones was
+overbalanced by his oar hitting the top of a big wave behind the boat
+and he was knocked out. He clung by his knees and hands, his back in the
+water, and the boat careened till I thought she would go over. We could
+not move to help him without upsetting and were compelled to leave him
+to his own resources. In some way he succeeded in scrambling back. The
+waves were tremendous and sometimes seemed to come from all directions
+at once. There were whirlpools, too, that turned us round in spite of
+every effort to prevent it. The river was about one hundred and fifty
+feet wide. After an extremely strenuous morning we halted on the right
+for dinner, continuing as soon as we had disposed of it. Presently we
+arrived at a sharp fall of about twenty feet, where we made a portage,
+and waited at the foot for the photographers to take some negatives and
+also for repairing the _Cañonita_. Finally it was decided to camp on
+the spot. It was Camp 100. Our record for the day was a trifle over
+seven miles with nine rapids run and one portage.
+
+Almost the first thing in the morning of September 2d was a portage,
+after which we had fair water for two or three miles, and then reached a
+very heavy fall, where we landed on the left and had dinner before
+making another portage. This accomplished, we proceeded on a river still
+rising and ran a great many bad rapids, some of them having tremendous
+falls. In one the fierce current set against the cliff so strongly that
+we were carried within an oar's length of it, notwithstanding our severe
+effort to avoid so close an acquaintance with the rough wall. Even
+between rapids the velocity of the water was extremely high and we flew
+along at terrific speed, while in the huge waves of the rapids the boats
+leaped and plunged with startling violence. Toward night a sudden halt
+was made on the left to examine a bad-looking place half a mile below.
+The Major and Prof. tried to climb where they could get a good view of
+it, but they failed. The Major said we would run it in the morning,
+though Prof. was dubious about the feasibility of doing so successfully
+and said he thought it about the worst place we had yet seen. We camped
+on a rocky talus where we were. A small sandbank was found nearby for
+our beds, and we made another discovery, a small pool of clear, pure
+water, a rare treat after the muddy Colorado which we had been drinking
+for so long. Twenty rapids were placed to our credit for this one day in
+a trifle over fifteen miles, and we felt that we were vanquishing the
+Grand Canyon with considerable success.
+
+Our life now was so strenuous every hour of the day that our songs were
+forgotten, and when night came every man was so used up that as soon as
+supper was over rest and sleep were the only things that interested us.
+Though our beds were as hard and rough as anything could be, we slept
+with the intensity of the rocks themselves, and it never seemed more
+than a few minutes before we were aroused by the Major's rising signal
+"Oh-ho, boys!" and rose to our feet to pack the blankets in the rubber
+bags, sometimes with a passing thought as to whether we would ever take
+them out again. For my part, never before nor since have I been so
+tired. One night when the Major called us to look out for the boats I
+did not hear him and no one waked me so I slept on, learning about it
+only the next morning. Our food supply was composed partly of jerked
+beef, and as this could not be put in rubber because of the grease it
+became more or less damp and there developed in it a peculiar kind of
+worm, the largest about an inch long, with multitudinous legs. There
+were a great many of them and they gave the beef a queer taste. In order
+to clear the sacks as far as possible of these undesirable denizens I
+several times emptied them on wide smooth rocks, and while the worms
+were scrambling around I scraped up the beef without many of them, but
+could not get rid of all. Andy's method of cooking this beef was to make
+a gravy with bacon fat and scorched flour and then for a few moments
+stew the beef in the gravy. Ordinarily this made a very palatable dish
+but the peculiar flavour of the beef now detracted from it, though we
+were so hungry that we could eat anything without a query, and our
+diminishing supply of rations forbade the abandonment of the valuable
+beef.
+
+When we arose on the morning of September 3d the dubious rapid was
+tossing its huge waves exactly as on the night before and humanity
+seemed to be out of the reckoning. By eight o'clock we were ready for
+it, and with everything in good trim we pushed off. The current was
+strong from the start, and a small rapid just below camp gave additional
+speed, so that we were soon bearing down on the big one with wild
+velocity. The river dropped away abruptly, to rise again in a succession
+of fearful billows whose crests leaped and danced high in air as if
+rejoicing at the prospect of annihilating us. Just then the Major
+changed his mind as to running the place, for now standing on the boat's
+deck he could see it better than before from the region of our camp. He
+ordered us to pull hard on our left, intending to land at a spot that
+was propitious on the left or south bank, but no sooner had he given
+this command than he perceived that no landing above the fall was
+possible. He gave another order which put us straight in the middle
+again and down we flew upon the descent. The Major as usual had put on
+his life-preserver and I think Jones had on his, but Jack and I, as was
+our custom, placed ours inflated immediately behind our seats, not
+wishing to be hampered by them. The plunge was exceedingly sharp and
+deep, and then we found ourselves tossing like a chip in a frightful
+chaos of breakers which almost buried us, though the boats rose to them
+as well as any craft possibly could. I bailed with a camp kettle rapidly
+and Jack did the same, but the boat remained full to the gunwales as we
+were swept on. We had passed the worst of it when, just as the _Dean_
+mounted a giant wave at an angle perhaps of forty or fifty degrees, the
+crest broke in a deluge against the port bow with a loud slap. In an
+instant we were upside-down going over to starboard. I threw up my hand
+instinctively to grasp something, and luckily caught hold of a spare oar
+which was carried slung on the side, and by this means I pulled myself
+above water. My hat was pasted down over my eyes. Freeing myself from
+this I looked about. Bottom up the boat was clear of the rapid and
+sweeping on down with the swift, boiling current toward a dark bend. The
+_Cañonita_ was nowhere to be seen. No living thing was visible. The
+narrow black gorge rose in sombre majesty to the everlasting sky. What
+was a mere human life or two in the span of eternity? I was about
+preparing to climb up on the bottom of the boat when I perceived Jones
+clinging to the ring in the stern, and in another second the Major and
+Jack shot up alongside as if from a gun. The whole party had been kept
+together in a kind of whirlpool, and the Major and Jack had been pulled
+down head first till, as is the nature of these suctions on the
+Colorado, it suddenly changed to an upward force and threw them out into
+the air.
+
+There was no time to lose, for we did not wish to go far in this
+condition; another rapid might be in waiting around the corner. Jack and
+I carefully got up on the bottom, leaving the Major at the bow and Jones
+at the stern, and leaning over we took hold of the starboard gunwale
+under water, and throwing ourselves back quickly together we brought the
+_Dean_ up on her keel, though she came near rolling clear over the other
+way. She was even full of water, but the cabins supported her. Jack
+helped me in and then I balanced his effort so as not to capsize again.
+The bailing kettles were gone, but as our hats had strangely enough
+remained on our heads through it all we bailed with them as fast as
+possible for a few seconds till we lowered the water sufficiently to
+make it safe to get the others on board. The Major came aft along the
+gunwale and I helped him in, then Jack helped Jones. The oars,
+fortunately, had not come out of the locks, thanks to our excellent
+arrangement, and grasping them, without trying to haul in the bow line
+trailing a hundred feet in the water, we pulled hard for a slight eddy
+on the left where we perceived a footing on the rocks, and as soon as we
+were near enough I caught up the rope, made the leap, and threw the
+bight over a projection, where I held the boat while Jack and Jones
+bailed rapidly and set things in order so that we could go to the
+assistance of the _Cañonita_. The Major's Jurgenssen chronometer had
+stopped at 8:26:30 from the wetting.
+
+The _Cañonita_, being more lightly laden than the _Dean_, and also not
+meeting the peculiar coincidence of mounting a wave at the instant it
+broke, came down with no more damage than the loss of three oars and the
+breaking of a rowlock. Probably if the Major had sat down on the deck
+instead of in the chair we might also have weathered the storm.[34]
+About a mile and a half below we made a landing at a favourable spot on
+the right, where the cargoes were spread out to dry and the boats were
+overhauled, while the Major and I climbed up the wall to where he
+desired to make a geological investigation. We joked him a good deal
+about his zeal in going to examine the geology at the bottom of the
+river, but as a matter of fact he came near departing by that road to
+another world.
+
+We were now in an exceedingly difficult part of the granite gorge, for,
+at the prevailing stage of water, landings were either highly precarious
+or not possible at all, so we could not examine places before running,
+and could not always make a portage where we deemed it necessary. There
+were also all manner of whirlpools and bad places. Starting on about
+three o'clock we descended several rapids in about six miles, when we
+saw one ahead that looked particularly forbidding. The granite came down
+almost vertically to the water, projecting in huge buttresses that
+formed a succession of little bays, especially on the left, where we
+manoeuvred in and out, keeping close against the rocks, the current
+there being slack. The plan was for me to be ready, on turning the last
+point, to jump out on some rocks we had noticed from above not far from
+the beginning of the rapid. As we crept around the wall I stood up with
+the bight of the line in one hand, while Jack pulled in till we began to
+drift down stern foremost alongshore. At the proper moment I made my
+leap exactly calculated. Unluckily at the instant the capricious
+Colorado threw a "boil" up between the bow and the flat rock I was
+aiming at, turning the bow out several feet, and instead of landing
+where I intended I disappeared in deep water. I clung to the line and
+the acceleration of the boat's descent quickly pulled me back to the
+surface. She was gliding rapidly past more rocks and the Major jumped
+for them with the purpose of catching the rope, but they were so
+isolated and covered with rushing water that he had all he could do to
+take care of himself. Jones then tried the same thing, but with the same
+result. Jack stuck to his post. I went hand over hand to the bow as fast
+as I could, and reaching the gunwale I was on board in a second. One of
+my oars had somehow come loose, but Jack had caught it and now handed it
+to me. We took our places and surveyed the chances. Apparently we were
+in for running the rapid stern foremost and we prepared for it, but in
+the middle of the stream there was a rock of most gigantic proportions
+sloping up the river in such a way that the surges alternately rolled
+upon it and then slid back. Partly up the slope we were drawn by this
+power, and on the down rush the boat turned and headed diagonally just
+right for reaching the left bank. We saw our opportunity and, pulling
+with every muscle, lodged the _Dean_ behind a huge boulder at the very
+beginning of the main rapid, where I made the line fast in the twinkle
+of an eye. Meanwhile the Major had hastily scrambled up to where he
+could see down the canyon, and he heard Jack's hearty shout of "All
+right!" Lowering the _Dean_ a couple of rods farther to a sandbank at
+the mouth of a gulch we went into camp feeling that we had done enough
+river work for one day, and the _Cañonita's_ crew without accident
+lowered down to the same place before Andy had supper ready. My hat had
+come off in my deep plunge and beyond this I did not have one. Near by
+was a small clear spring that gave us another treat of palatable water,
+the Colorado now being muddier than ever, as it was still on the rise,
+coming up three feet more while we were here. The entire day's run was
+eight and one-eighth miles. The Major and Prof. succeeded in getting
+down three miles on foot to reconnoitre.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+Character of River in Rapids.
+
+Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh, 1907.]
+
+Continuing in the morning, September 4th, we lowered the boats past the
+remainder of the rapid and then shoved out into the terrific current
+once more. Water could hardly run faster than it now did, except in a
+fall or rapid. The canyon was narrow and for five miles we encountered
+the worst whirlpools we had anywhere seen. The descent was swift and
+continuous, but the river was broken only by the whirlpools and "boils"
+as we called them, the surface suddenly seeming to boil up and run over.
+These upshoots, as a rule, seemed to follow whirlpools. In the latter
+the water for a diameter of twenty or twenty-five feet would revolve
+around a centre with great rapidity, the surface inclining to the
+vortex, the top of which was perhaps eighteen or twenty inches lower
+than the general level. The vortex itself was perfectly formed, like a
+large funnel, and about six or eight inches in diameter, where it began
+to be a hole in the water, tapering thence down in four or five feet to
+a mere point. The same effect is often seen when the water is flowing
+out of a round wash-basin through a pipe at the bottom. These were the
+most perfect whirlpools I have ever seen, those above having been
+lacking in so distinct a vortex. There were many and we could often see
+them ahead, but try as we would to cleave through without a complete
+revolution or two of the boat we could not do it. The boats sank down
+into the hollow, enabling one to look over the side into the spinning
+opening, but the boats, being almost as long as the whirlpool's usual
+diameter, could not be pulled in and we were not alarmed. We found it
+rather interesting to see if we could get through without turning, but
+we never did. Any ordinary short object or one that could be tipped on
+end would surely go out of sight. So furious ran the river along this
+stretch that we found it impossible to stop, the boats being like bits
+of paper in a mill-race, swinging from one side to the other, and
+whirling round and round as we were swept along between the narrow walls
+till we ran the granite under about five miles from our last camp.
+Finally, after a run all told of fourteen miles with twenty-three
+rapids, we made Camp 103 with walls of friendly sandstone about us. Here
+again we discovered a small clear spring for drinking and cooking
+purposes. There was no rain this day and at night we put on our dry
+clothes with confidence and had a warm comfortable camp with a good
+sound sleep.
+
+Thursday morning found us early on the river, which to our surprise
+turned suddenly in a north-north-east direction. When we had gone about
+nine miles and had run the granite up and down again, it began to turn
+to the west. At one point the river was not more than fifty feet wide;
+the current was everywhere exceedingly strong and there were many
+rapids, of which we ran twelve, and made a portage at another, and a
+let-down at still another. We camped at the end of the nine miles on a
+small sandbank, with the total height of walls about four thousand feet,
+breaking back in terraces after about eight hundred feet. Clem and Jack
+made a number of photographs wherever practicable, and altogether they
+had succeeded in securing a representative collection.
+
+During the morning of Friday, September 6th, we ran two rapids in two
+miles, which brought us to one which we thought required a let-down and
+we made it. As it was easy, Jack and Clem busied themselves
+photographing while we were doing it, and we also had dinner here. About
+two o'clock we went on and in less than three miles ran four rapids, the
+fourth being an exceedingly heavy fall, at the foot of which we went
+into camp on the right bank. A little distance above on the same side of
+the river was a fine clear cold creek larger than the Paria in quantity
+of water. We called it Tapeats Creek, because a Pai Ute of that name,
+who had pointed it out to the Major from the Kaibab, claimed it. During
+the day the work had been far less strenuous, there were few whirlpools,
+the river was falling, and it was in every way much easier than above in
+the granite. A morning was spent at Tapeats Creek for examinations, and
+we found there some ancient house ruins not far up the side canyon. I
+discovered a fine large metate or Indian mill, deeply hollowed out, and
+foolishly attempted to take it to camp. On arriving there it was so
+heavy I had to drop it and it broke in two, much to the Major's disgust,
+who told me I ought to have let it alone, a fact which I realised then
+also. Our rations were now running very low again, for we had taken more
+days for this passage than were planned, and as soon as we launched
+forth after dinner we began to look longingly for the mouth of Kanab
+Canyon and the pack-train. The river was much easier in every respect,
+and after our experience of the previous days it seemed mere play. The
+granite ran up for a mile or two, but then we entered sedimentary strata
+and came to a pretty little cascade falling through a crevice on the
+right from a valley hidden behind a low wall. We at once recognised it
+as one which Beaman had photographed when he and Riley had made their
+way up along the rocks from the mouth of the Kanab during the winter. We
+remembered that they had called it ten miles to the Kanab from this
+place, and after we had climbed up to examine what they had named
+Surprise Valley we went on expecting to reach the Kanab before night.
+Running several small and one fairly large rapid, we saw, after twelve
+miles from the last camp, a seeming crack on the right, and a few
+seconds later heard a wild yelling. In a little while we landed and
+lowered to the head of a rapid, and running to the right up the
+backwater into the mouth of the Kanab Canyon, we found George Adair,
+Nathan Adams, and Joe Hamblin, our three faithful packers, waiting there
+for us with the rations. They had grown very anxious, for we were
+several days overdue, and they feared we had been destroyed,--a fear
+that was emphasised by one of Andy's discarded shirts washing ashore at
+their feet. We pulled the boats a short distance up the Kanab on the
+backwater and made a comfortable camp, 106, on its right bank, where we
+were soon lost in letters and papers the pack-train had brought down.
+
+Our altitude was now 1800 feet above sea-level, showing a descent from
+the Little Colorado, in about 70 miles, of 890 feet, with 131 rapids
+run, besides six let-downs and seven portages. The total descent from
+the Paria was 1370 feet.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 32: There is but one Grand Canyon--the one here referred to.
+Persons unfamiliar with Western geography frequently confound the Canyon
+of the Arkansas with that of the Colorado because the former is in the
+state of Colorado. The Grand Canyon is in Arizona but on the
+_Colorado_ River.]
+
+[Footnote 33: Professor Thompson in his diary calls the descent 130 feet
+in three-quarters of a mile.]
+
+[Footnote 34: For the benefit of any one who contemplates descending the
+Colorado I would state that unsinkable boats are the only kind to use
+and the centre of gravity should be kept low. Cork life-jackets are
+indispensable.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+     A New Departure--Farewell to the Boats--Out to the World
+     through Kanab Canyon--A Midnight Ride--At the Innupin
+     Picavu--Prof. Reconnoitres the Shewits Country--Winter
+     Quarters in Kanab--Making the Preliminary Map--Another New
+     Year--Across a high Divide in a Snow-storm--Down the Sevier in
+     Winter--The Last Summons.
+
+
+The day following our arrival at the mouth of the Kanab Canyon was
+Sunday, September 8th, and with the exception of some observations taken
+by Prof., and the writing of notes, the whole camp was in a state of
+rest. After our trying work in the granite we enjoyed immensely the
+lying around warm and dry with plenty to eat. Monday morning everybody
+expected to begin preparations for the descent to the Grand Wash. We
+were surprised just as we were about to rise from our places around the
+canvas on which breakfast had been spread, when the Major, who was
+sitting in his chair thinking, suddenly exclaimed, "Well, boys, our
+voyage is done!" In a way these words were a disappointment, for we all
+wanted to complete the task and we were entirely ready to go on,
+notwithstanding that our recent experience with high water in the
+granite indicated great hazard ahead, where there was more granite; but
+on the whole the disappointment was agreeable. We knew the second
+granite gorge toward the lower end of the chasm to be nearly as bad as
+the first one. There was besides one exceedingly difficult passage
+there, which Prof. called Catastrophe Rapid, where the Howlands and Dunn
+had left the first party, which on the prevailing stage of water the
+Major believed would be foolhardy to attempt. Prof. in his diary says,
+"It is nonsense to think of trying the lower bend with this water." He
+and the Major had talked the matter over Saturday night and thought of
+stopping about forty miles down at Mount Trumbull, where we knew we
+could climb out; then they thought of sending only one boat that far,
+but by Sunday night they decided to end all river work here. Prof. said
+he could map the course from the notes of the first party and that he
+would rather explore the adjacent country by land.[35] There were some
+breaks in the notes from here down to Catastrophe Rapid, due to the fact
+that when the papers were divided on that memorable day on which the
+Howlands and Dunn left the party, instead of each division having a full
+copy of all the notes, by a mistake they had only portions of both sets.
+In addition to the difficulty of the forbidding Catastrophe Rapid there
+was a possibility of an attack on us by the Shewits. Jacob through one
+of his Pai Ute friends had information that they were preparing to lay
+an ambush, and he sent warning to that effect. Jacob knew the natives
+too well to have given us this notice unless he thought it a real
+danger, but we did not allow it much consideration at the time. Yet it
+would have been an easy matter for the Shewits to secrete themselves
+where they could fall upon us in the night when we were used up by
+working through some bad rapid, and then, hiding the goods, throw our
+bodies into the river and burn the boats, or even turn them loose, thus
+leaving no proof of their action, our disappearance naturally being laid
+to destruction by the river, a termination generally anticipated. I have
+sometimes thought that when they killed the Howlands and Dunn they did
+it deliberately to get their guns and clothes, thinking it would not be
+found out, or at least that they could put forth a good excuse, as they
+did.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+At a Rapid--Low Water.]
+
+We were in the field to accomplish certain work and not to perform a
+spectacular feat, and the Major and Prof. having decided that the
+descent of the remainder of the canyon, considering all the
+circumstances, was for us impracticable and unnecessary, we prepared to
+leave for Kanab. We unpacked the good old boats rather reluctantly. They
+had come to possess a personality as such inanimate objects will, having
+been our faithful companions and our reliance for many a hundred
+difficult miles, and it seemed like desertion to abandon them so
+carelessly to destruction. We ought to have had a funeral pyre. The
+flags of the boats, which Mrs. Thompson had made and which had been
+carried in them the entire way, were still to be disposed of, and that
+of the _Dean_ was generously voted to me by the Major, Jack, and Jones,
+who had crew claims to it; that of the _Nellie Powell_ was awarded to
+Steward; while Clem received the _Cañonita's_. I tried to persuade the
+Major to pack the _Dean_ out in sections and send her east to be kept as
+a souvenir of the voyage, but he would not then listen to it, though
+years later he admitted that he regretted not taking my suggestion.
+Three years afterward I came back to this place with my own party and
+would then have executed my desire, but no trace of our former outfit
+remained except a hatch from one of the middle cabins, and the Major's
+chair. The latter I carried to Salt Lake, where I presented it to Cap,
+who was living there.
+
+As before mentioned, the Colorado was so extremely high that the water
+backed up into the Kanab Canyon, and it was there that we left the
+boats, each tied to an oar stuck in the ground.[36] We could not get all
+the goods on the horses of the pack-train, and left a portion to be
+brought out later. Jack and Clem remained to make photographs, and
+taking a last look at the boats, with a good-bye to all, we turned our
+faces up the narrow chasm of the Kanab. A small stream ran in the
+bottom, and this formed large pools amongst numerous ponderous boulders
+that had fallen in from the top of the walls some three thousand feet
+above our heads, the bottom being hardly more than sixty to seventy-five
+feet wide. It was with considerable difficulty that we got the animals
+past some of these places, and in one or two the pools were so long and
+deep they had to swim a little. The prospectors the year before had
+worked a trail to some extent, but here, where the floods ran high at
+times, changes occurred frequently. By five o'clock we had gone about
+eight miles up this slow, rough way, and arrived at a singular spring,
+where we went into camp. This we called Shower-Bath Spring. The water
+charged with lime had built out from the wall a semi-circular mass
+covered by ferns, which was cut away below by the floods till one could
+walk under in the sprinkling streams percolating through it. It was a
+very pretty place, but like all of its kind in the deep gorges it was a
+favourite resort for tarantulas, many of which we had seen in the depths
+of the Grand Canyon. These, with scorpions, rattlesnakes, and
+Gila-monsters, were the poisonous reptiles of the gorge.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+B. Preliminary map of a portion of the southern part of the unknown
+country indicated by the blank space on Map A at page 95, showing the
+Hurricane Ledge, Uinkaret and Shewits Mountains, and the course of the
+Grand Canyon from the mouth of Kanab Canyon to the Grand Wash. The
+Howlands and Dunn left the first expedition at Catastrophe Rapid, at the
+sharp bend a few miles below the intersection of the river and longitude
+113° 30', climbed out to the north, and were killed near Mt.
+Dellenbaugh.]
+
+The next morning, Tuesday, the 10th of September, our pack-train was
+early on the way. The walls grew somewhat lower, though still two
+thousand feet high, and the canyon was usually seventy-five to one
+hundred feet wide at the bottom. There were patches of alluvial deposit
+now along the sides of the watercourse, covered by fields of cactus
+loaded with "apples," the prickly leaves compelling us to keep the trail
+the prospectors had made by their passage to and from the ephemeral
+Eldorado. After a time we emerged from the lower canyon into a wider one
+in the way previously described; that is, like going from one floor to
+another by an incline between narrow walls. The little stream having
+vanished, a pool of rain-water helped us out for dinner, and while it
+was preparing Prof. and I climbed up to secure notes on the topography.
+A trifle before sunset we arrived at the cedar tree, a short distance
+below the mouth of the Shinumo Canyon, where our party had camped the
+previous March. The pockets were full of clear, fresh water, and we had
+plenty for horses as well as men. Not far off some human bones were
+found, old and bleached. We thought they must be the remains of one of
+the Navajo raiders who escaped wounded from the Mormon attack near this
+locality. The canyon bottom was quite wide at this point and
+comparatively level, covered by rushes and grass, and the horses were
+able to get a good meal.
+
+During the day every time I dismounted to take compass bearings on the
+trail I felt a sharp, peculiar pain shoot up my right leg from in front
+about half-way between ankle and knee. I could only discover a small red
+spot at the initial point, and concluded that I must have struck a sharp
+rock or cactus spine. Our party now again divided, the Major and Jones
+going up Shinumo Canyon to the Kaibab region, while Prof. and I rode on
+up the Kanab Canyon, starting at eight o'clock in the morning,
+Wednesday, September 11th, and riding steadily all day. As we had not
+expected to come out in this way saddles were scarce. Prof. and the
+Major had two of the three used by the packers, while the third was
+awarded to Jones, who was to have a long ride on the Kaibab trip. The
+rest of us had to make shift as we could, and I rigged up a "sawbuck"
+pack-saddle, with rope loops for stirrups and a blanket across it to sit
+on. This was not much better than, or as good perhaps as, bareback, and
+the horse was a very hard trotter. We wished to reach Kanab that night.
+We kept on at as rapid a gait as the canyon would permit, though it was
+easier than in March, when the numerous miners had not yet broken a way
+by their ingress and egress in search of the fabulous gold that was
+supposed to exist somewhere in the inaccessibility of the great chasm.
+The harder a locality is to arrive at the bigger the stories of its
+wealth, while often in the attempts to reach it the prospector treads
+heedlessly ground that holds fortunes up to his very eyes. We continued
+straight up Kanab Canyon, the walls running lower and lower, till there
+was nothing but rounded hills. Then we emerged on the summit, which was
+a valley bottom, about twenty miles from Kanab. Shortly after dark we
+halted for a bite to eat and a brief rest before striking for our old
+storehouse, a log cabin in Jacob's corral, where we arrived about eleven
+o'clock, having made about forty miles. I collected all the blankets I
+could find, and, throwing them on the inside of Jacob's garden fence, I
+was almost immediately asleep, and knew nothing till Jacob came along
+and said a "Good-morning." My ablutions over, I went to Sister Louisa's
+to breakfast with Prof. and Mrs. Thompson. The gardens were now
+yielding an abundance of fresh fruits, peaches, melons, etc., and I
+blessed the good management and foresight that directed the immediate
+planting of these things in a Mormon settlement. It seemed as if I could
+not get my fill.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+C. Preliminary map of a portion of the central part of the unknown
+country indicated by the blank space on Map A at page 95, showing the
+Kaibab Plateau, mouth of the Paria, Echo Peaks, House Rock Valley, and
+the course of part of Glen Canyon and of Marble Canyon and the Grand
+Canyon to the mouth of the Kanab Canyon. El Vado is at the western
+intersection of the 37th parallel and the Colorado River, and Kanab is
+in the upper left-hand corner of the map--just above the 37th parallel
+which is the boundary between Utah and Arizona. The words "Old Spanish
+Trail from Santa Fé to Los Angeles" near El Vado were added in
+Washington and are incorrect. The old Spanish trail crossed at Gunnison
+Crossing far north of this point, which was barely known before 1858.]
+
+Friday the 13th, the next day, was my birthday and Mrs. Thompson, who
+was always striving to do something to make our circumstances pleasant,
+prepared a large peach pie with her own hands in celebration. The Major
+and Jones having come in the night before, we passed most of the time
+that day in a large tent eating melons, the Major acting as carver of
+the fruit. When we had eaten a watermelon he would declare that he
+thought muskmelon far better. We all agreed. He would cut one only to
+find when we had eaten it that we had changed our minds and wanted
+watermelon, which see-saw opinions we kept up till all the melons were
+gone. It would be impossible for any one who had not had our canyon fare
+to appreciate the exhilarating effect of this fresh fruit.
+
+My leg, which had developed the pain coming up the Kanab Canyon, now
+swelled till it was almost the same size throughout and any pressure
+made an imprint as in a piece of putty. No one knew what to make of it.
+I rode over to Johnson's, that person being the nearest to a doctor of
+any one in the country, though the Mormons do not much believe in
+medicines, and he gave me a liniment to apply. This did no good. In a
+few days the swelling disappeared except where the spot of keen pain
+was, and there a lump was left half as large as a man's fist, with two
+small red spots in the middle of it. I now concluded that these spots
+marked the bite of a tarantula that must have gotten in my blankets at
+Shower-Bath Spring. Suppuration set in at the spots where the flesh
+turned black and all the men said it was a bad-looking wound. They
+thought I would lose my leg. I concluded to poultice it to draw out any
+poison that remained, and kept bread-and-milk applied continuously.
+After a while it seemed to have a tendency to heal.
+
+We ran the base line up through Kanab and at the head of it pitched a
+small observatory tent over a stone foundation on which Prof, set up a
+large transit instrument for stellar observations. He got in connection,
+by the telegraph, with Salt Lake City and made a series of close
+observations. I began an hourly set of barometrical readings and as soon
+as Clem came back he helped me to run them day and night for eight
+consecutive days. Jack meanwhile was preparing for a trip to the Moki
+Towns, the Major and Jones had gone off for some special work, and Andy
+started with a waggon for Beaver to bring down rations. Occasional bands
+of trading Navajos enlivened the days and I secured five good blankets
+in exchange for old Yawger, who was now about useless for our purposes.
+Prof. gave him to me to get what I could for him, and he also gave Clem
+another derelict for the same purpose. On the 9th of October Jack, Andy,
+and Clem, started with Jacob on his annual trip to the Mokis by way of
+Lee's Lonely Dell while Jones went north to Long Valley on the head of
+the Virgin, for topography. The Major on foot, with a Mormon companion
+and a Pai Ute, explored from Long Valley down the narrow canyon of the
+Virgin to Shunesburg, about 20 miles, a trip never before made.[37] The
+canyon is about two thousand feet deep and in places only twenty or
+thirty feet wide, twisting in such a way that the sky was not visible at
+times, and the stream often filled it from side to side so that they had
+to swim.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+At the Bottom near Foot of Bass Trail.]
+
+About eleven o'clock that night Prof. came to wake me up to say that a
+telegram had arrived stating that Najavos again had been raiding and had
+stolen seventy head of horses from Parowan. They were supposed to be
+making for El Vado and nobody in the absence of Jacob seemed to know
+just what to do about it. Prof. had advised them to organise a party and
+cut off the raiders, but they preferred to consult Jacob before doing
+anything. Prof. now asked me if I would be willing to ride at once to
+the Navajo Well where Jacob had expected to camp and notify him of the
+raid, no one else in town understanding where the well was, few besides
+ourselves and Jacob ever having travelled that way. I said I would go if
+I could have one companion. It was a lonely journey, and besides I might
+come on the Navajos before reaching the well. Charley Riggs, a splendid
+fellow whom I liked exceedingly, volunteered. Filling our overcoat
+pockets with cartridges, and each with a good Winchester across his
+saddle, we started about 12:30 under a fine moon and a clear sky. I knew
+the way perfectly, even by moonlight. We took no wrong turns, had no
+stops, and made excellent time toward the Navajo Well twenty miles away.
+On we went over the open country, skirting the Vermilion Cliffs on our
+left.
+
+    "Neck by neck, stride by stride, never changing our place,"
+
+but not at the headlong gallop by which they brought the news over a
+first-class road to Aix, we rode steadily as fast as the ground would
+permit, sometimes on a gallop, sometimes on a trot. About two o'clock,
+as we neared a canyon where an old trail came down from the north which
+the raiders might follow, we slowed up and advanced with caution. Dimly
+we perceived what appeared to be a number of sleeping forms under the
+ordinary Navajo dark-blue and white striped service blanket. Throwing
+our guns up ready for action we rode ahead slowly to pass by a detour if
+not discovered. We then saw that the objects were nothing but peculiar
+bushes. With a feeling of sympathy for the dear Knight of La Mancha and
+his worthy Sancho we spurred forward. At half-past four by the watch
+dawn began to spread on the sky and we rode into the camp at the Navajo
+Well. A shout and our hoofbeats had roused the sleepers. I delivered my
+message to Jacob who immediately started for El Vado with Charley Riggs,
+intending to add several more men to his band at the Paria settlement
+which he would pass through; a route he had often before followed for a
+like purpose. My leg was by no means well and it would have been
+imprudent on this account for me to further lend my services. I let
+Jacob have my rifle and ammunition and returned to Kanab, Jack, Andy,
+and Clem going on to Lee's to wait. I reached the settlement before
+noon, when George Adair and Tom Stewart started heavily armed to join
+Jacob at the earliest moment. A Pai Ute later came in with a report that
+a fresh party of Navajos on a trading trip had recently come across the
+Colorado, and from this we concluded that the alarm was false, or that
+the culprits were Utes who went off into the Dirty Devil country. Prof.
+with Adams went out towards the Paria and then to the Kaibab to do some
+topographic work along the north rim of the Grand Canyon and I was left
+without any of our party in the village, it being deemed inadvisable for
+me to do much riding or walking till my wound, which was now doing well,
+had more nearly healed. I devoted my time to plotting up notes,
+finishing sketches, drawings of pictographs, etc., and took my meals at
+Sister Louisa's. I became much interested in the story of her
+experiences which she told us from time to time, especially as she was
+one of the women who had pushed a handcart across the plains. After a
+few days the Major came in from a trip accompanied by several Pai Utes,
+among whom was Chuarooumpeak, the young chief of the Kaibab band,
+usually called Frank by the settlers and Chuar by his own people. The
+Pai Utes having no "F" in their language pronounced his English name
+"Brank," just as they called me "Bred." Their usual name for me was
+Untokarowits, derived from the dark red colour of my hair. Frank was a
+remarkably good man. He had been constantly devoted to the safety and
+welfare of the whites. A most fluent speaker in his native tongue, he
+would address his people with long flights of uninterrupted rhetorical
+skill.
+
+Old Patnish came in occasionally. Though he did not look particularly
+dangerous his eye was keen and his bearing positive. Nobody would have
+interfered with him unless prepared for a fight to the finish. One day I
+rode to Johnson by the trail and learned when I got back that Patnish
+had arrived at Kanab by the road, so I just missed an interview. The
+term "old" Patnish signifies "that scoundrel" Patnish, but when the
+people spoke of "old" Jacob the prefix was one of respect and
+affection--so contrary is the meaning that can be put into three
+letters. Charley Riggs and George Adair came back from El Vado saying
+that no raiding Navajos had been seen, so our opinion of the false alarm
+was confirmed.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+E. Showing results of recent re-survey of part of the Grand Canyon near
+Bright Angel Creek by the Geological Survey with ample time for detail.
+Compare with Map C at page 246, the south end of Kaibab Plateau.]
+
+On the 27th of October we had the first snow of the season, which lasted
+only a few hours, snow never being heavy at Kanab. The Major had planned
+another journey to the Uinkaret region and we started November 2d,
+taking with us three of the Kaibab band--Chuar, another called George,
+or, as they pronounced it, "Judge," and Waytoots; the Major desiring to
+talk to them in our camps to continue his vocabulary and the collection
+of other linguistic material which he had been gathering from them and
+others in and around Kanab at every opportunity. Our party proceeded to
+Pipe Spring, camping half a mile below the houses and striking the next
+day, Monday, November 4th, for the Wild Band Pocket. Finding no water
+there the natives led on toward a spring they knew of in a low line of
+cliffs. I was riding a broncho broken only a few weeks before, and at an
+unexpected moment I was suddenly deemed _persona non grata_, but I kept
+my seat and vanquished the beast after a vigorous circus, meeting
+thereafter with no further opposition. We saw a band of twenty wild
+horses spinning across the plain one behind another like a train of
+railway cars, a huge stallion playing locomotive. Perhaps my broncho
+felt the call of the band! Darkness dropped down on us before we could
+get to the spring. We had to make a camp that was not exactly dry,
+though there was no drinking water, for a drizzling rain, half snow, set
+in, the snow serving to hold the accompanying rain on the surface. We
+were wading in slush and it was a task to find a decent place for one's
+blankets. Jones and I bunked together. His side of the bed was a slight
+hollow, in consequence of which the melting slush formed under him a
+chilly pool that interfered seriously with his slumbers. I happened to
+be lying on a lump or ridge and kept fairly dry by never stirring the
+whole night.
+
+The rain ceased by morning and all day Tuesday we travelled toward the
+Uinkaret Mountains over a comparatively level desert, but not going
+rapidly, as we had a waggon. The ground having been softened by the rain
+the wheels cut deeply, there being of course no road. A flock of
+antelope blew by. We did not give them a second glance, as they were too
+far off to be hunted. It was after dark when we arrived at the rocky
+pool where we had before camped in March, which we learned now from
+Chuar the natives called the Innupin (or Oonupin) Picavu, or Witch
+Water-pocket. They said the locality was a favourite haunt of witches.
+These were often troublesome and had to be driven away or they might
+hurt one. There was plenty of wood and we were soon comfortable, with a
+keen November wind to emphasise our blessings. The water in the pocket
+was clear and pure, but it was full of small "wigglers." We tried to dip
+up a pail which should be free from them. The Major, seeing our efforts,
+took a cup and without looking drank it down with the nonchalant remark,
+"I haven't seen any wigglers." The Pai Utes had killed some rabbits,
+which they now skinned and cooked. I say cooked, but perhaps I should
+say warmed. Dexterously stripping off the skins they slit open the
+abdomen, removed the entrails, and, after squeezing out the contents by
+drawing between thumb and fingers, they replaced the interminable string
+in the cavity, closing the aperture with the ears, and stowed the
+carcass in the hot ashes for a few minutes. Then they ate the whole
+thing with complete satisfaction. We preferred to fry ours, without the
+entrails, in a pan with bacon fat. Frequently the Major gave me little
+talks on science, as he was much interested in my future career, and by
+the fire this evening he instructed me in some of the fundamental
+principles of natural philosophy. Chuar having had one of his men remove
+his shoes, which were heavy "Mericats" ones, was reclining in a princely
+way smoking a cigarette on a bank near the fire. Suddenly he rose to his
+feet, intently listening and peering anxiously out through the
+enveloping gloom of the piñons and cedars. I asked him what he heard.
+"Oonupits," he whispered solemnly, never ceasing his watchful gaze. Then
+cautiously aiming his long muzzle-loading rifle in the direction, he
+fired a shot and seemed satisfied that the intruder was driven away or
+destroyed. He described the noise of the Oonupits as a whistling sound.
+He and his men had a habit of waking in the night in our various camps
+and singing, first one beginning very low, the others joining in one by
+one, and increasing the power as they did so till all were singing in
+full voice. This woke us up. We threw things at them, but with no
+effect. "What do you do it for?" said I to Chuar. "To drive away the
+Oonupits," he answered.[38]
+
+In the morning, November 6th, the Major, Prof. and I went off
+reconnoitring and did not get back to camp till after dark, when we
+found there a short, fat, Uinkaret whom Chuar introduced as
+Teemaroomtekai, chief. In the settlements when he ventured to go there
+he was known as Watermelon, according to Frank Hamblin, who was with us.
+Teemaroomtekai had a companion and next day Prof. and the Major climbed
+Mt. Trumbull with them. Wishing to have a talk with the Shewits we moved
+on the 9th around to Oak Spring, near which some of them were encamped
+with their kinsmen the Uinkarets. I was interested to see what the
+slayers of the Howlands and Dunn looked like. Except for a wilder, more
+defiant aspect, they differed little from other Pai Utes. Their country
+being so isolated and unvisited they were surly and independent. The
+Uinkarets on the other hand were rather genial, more like the Kaivavit
+band. The Major traded for bags of food seeds, baskets, spoons made from
+mountain sheep's horns, balls of compressed cactus fruit from which the
+juice had been extracted for a kind of wine, rolls of oose-apple pulp,
+which they ate like bread, etc., all for the Smithsonian Institution.
+
+With the Shewits the Major and Prof. had a conference. Prof. wished to
+make a reconnaissance through their region and explained to them what he
+wanted to do. An agreement was reached by which he was to be permitted
+without molestation of any kind to go anywhere and everywhere with two
+Shewits for guides and one of our party as cook and helper, in order
+that he could tell "Washington" about the country. The helper, however,
+was to stick to the trail and remain in camp, so that he would know as
+little as possible, and should not tell that little to the "Mormoni"
+whom the Shewits disliked. Nathan Adams, a Mormon, was the man to
+accompany Prof. and he did not enjoy the prospect at all. On Monday,
+November 11th, the Major, Prof., and Jones climbed Mount Logan for more
+data and took a general survey of the country, while I went out on foot,
+climbed, measured and located eight large cinder-cones. When they came
+down the Major said he had seen a fine, isolated mountain to the west
+which he had called after me, and I naturally felt much pleased with the
+honour of having my name stamped on the map.
+
+The next day, November 12th, our party divided into three. Frank Hamblin
+went out to St. George with the waggon after rations; Prof. with Nathan
+Adams, one Shewits, named Paantung, and our guide "Judge," who may have
+been a Shewits also for all we could tell, prepared for the entrance
+into Shewits land, while the Major, Jones, and I proceeded to the foot
+of the Toroweap, to a water-pocket near the edge of the Grand Canyon
+called by the Uinkarets Teram Picavu. Chuar and Waytoots went back to
+Kanab and we hired Uinkarets to carry our goods nine miles down to the
+pocket, descending 1200 feet at one point over rough lava. After some
+work at the canyon we went back to the spring on the 14th, the Uinkarets
+again acting as our pack-horses. We had no salt left by this time and
+very little food, but we killed some rabbits and cooked them on hot
+coals, the adhering ashes making a substitute for salt. I reached the
+spring first and found little, round, beaming, Teemaroomtekai, who knew
+our plans, already there with a great big "Mericats" fire to welcome us,
+as well as a large pile of wood for feeding it. The Major got in soon
+after, but Jones failed to come at all, which worried us. Before we
+could go in search of him in the morning he arrived. His horse had given
+out, compelling him to stay where he was all night. We had travelled
+hard up and down all kinds of hills, canyons, and mountains, with seldom
+a trail, and it was wearing on the animals living only on bunch grass.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+From North Side near Foot of Toroweap Valley, Uinkaret District.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers.]
+
+I continued measuring and locating the oonagaritchets or cinder-cones,
+of which there were more than sixty, and got in four more on the 15th.
+Then the Major decided to move to another water-pocket the Uinkarets
+told about, farther east across the lava, a pocket they called Tiravu
+Picavu or Pocket-of-the-Plain. It was on the edge of the basaltic table
+overlooking what they termed the Wonsits Tiravu or Antelope Plain. They
+said there was no water now, but as one declared there was a little we
+decided to go. While the Major followed a waggon-track leading to or
+from St. George, wishing to make some special observations along it and
+expecting to meet and stop Frank with the waggon now due, Jones and I
+struck across on the moccasin trail, leaving our goods to be brought on
+by the Uinkaret packers. At sunset we rounded a clump of cinder-cones
+studding a black, barren waste. Far away across the Wonsits Tiravu rose
+the red cliff land up and up to the eastern sky; behind was the great
+bulk of Trumbull, together with scores of the smooth, verdureless heaps
+of volcanic cinders. Everywhere near was the desert of basalt, with
+nothing but the faint trail to point the way and the night slowly
+enwrapping us. On we urged our stumbling, weary beasts, their iron
+clinking on the metallic rocks; on till the thick blackness circled us
+like a wall. Then we halted and built a little brush fire, thinking to
+stay till dawn. At the instant a weird cry from far back fell leaden on
+the strangely heavy winter air. Our packers saw where we were and
+presently came to us. They were in a rage, pitching along in the dark
+under their heavy loads. They were cold, tired, famished, for the way
+had been long, the packs heavy. Frost was in the wind. They now
+pretended not to know where the end was. I thought this was to see what
+we would say or do. We did not care; we said and did nothing with all
+the nonchalance born of the feeling that the further we went the worse
+it was. Then one remembered. The pocket was near and he struck out for
+it, the rest following as best we could through the thick night, the
+guide occasionally lighting a torch of grass. After a quarter of a mile
+he stopped in the bottom of a deep basaltic gulch. Here was the place.
+The Uinkarets threw down their loads and squatted glum and silent. From
+the hill Jones and I scraped together an armful of brush and got a small
+fire started in the bottom of the desolate hollow. At the upper end of
+it on a sort of bench eight feet wide was a depression covered with ice
+three or four inches thick. With some difficulty pounding a hole through
+this we found beneath a small amount of thick, slimy water, full of
+green scum. We drank some, the Uinkarets drank some, but we could not
+see well enough to get any out for the animals. We tied them to rocks to
+prevent them from leaving in the night. The Indians thawed a little
+under the influence of the fire, but they would barely speak when spoken
+to. They skinned a wildcat they had killed on the way and boiled the red
+meat briefly in our kettle and ate it like hungry wolves, while Jones
+and I, all the time wondering what had become of the Major, made a light
+lunch on some of our scanty supply. Then we climbed the hill, and
+getting together a little more brush Jones sat keeping a signal fire
+going as long as he had fuel. But the wind was keen and strong, wood
+limited, and he gave it up. Spreading our blankets we went to sleep.
+Morning came clear and sharp. I took my glasses and went up to scan the
+country for some sign of the Major or our waggon and I rejoiced to
+discover him not a quarter of a mile distant. He had headed for the
+fire, and losing it kept on by a star till he thought he was near us,
+when he made a small fire of his own, tied his mule, and waited for day.
+We had a bite together and thawed out some of the ice in our kettle,
+providing a diminutive drink for each horse; then leaving the natives in
+charge of the baggage we rode down into the plain to find our waggon,
+taking along our last bit of bread for lunch. In about ten miles we came
+to it and Frank Hamblin gave us the latest news, "Grant elected and
+Boston burned." After a lunch we turned back, making a camp at the foot
+of the basalt, thawing out more ice for the animals, and giving the
+Indians some food. About two o'clock the Major and I rode over to the
+Innupin Picavu while Jones and the waggon went around, as it could not
+cross the basalt. We arrived at seven, while the waggon did not come
+till half past eleven, when we prepared a good supper for all hands,
+turning in about three in the morning. Not a man awoke before ten,
+though the strong sun fell on our faces. The animals were used up and we
+did what we could on foot that day. I climbed four more cinder-cones,
+reaching camp at dark. Every day I climbed several of the cones, but
+some were so far away that I had to make a special camp from which to
+operate. The waggon was loaded with ice from the water-pocket, and a
+supply of provisions, and driven about seven miles to a basaltic gulch,
+in a well-wooded locality on the edge of a treeless valley, where the
+load was dropped and I was left with my horse. Before dark I gathered a
+lot of wood, made a good fire, and melted some of the ice that formed my
+water supply, in a brass kettle, watering my horse, which I then
+tethered with a long rope where there was good grass. I did not intend
+to waste time hunting my mount in the morning. After supper I spread my
+blankets near the fire and by the light of a bright piñon blaze I began
+to read _Great Expectations_, a paper edition with the last leaves gone
+having gotten into camp. As I read Pip's interview in the twilight with
+the convict on the dreary marshes I was in deep sympathy with the
+desperate hunger of the terrible man, and when Mrs. Joe buttered the end
+of the loaf and carved off the slices I myself was hungry enough to cook
+supper over again. Butter had now been absent from my bill of fare, with
+a few exceptions, for nearly two years. I was careful to place my fire
+where it would be well screened and not easily seen from a distance. I
+did not care to have any Shewits or even Uinkarets visit me and I hoped
+they were all in their own camps, though I sometimes had a feeling that
+one might be watching from the shadows of the great basaltic rocks.
+This, of course, was due to the circumstances and not to any
+probability, though I kept my Winchester near my hand. When I again got
+back to the main camp the Major told me that the first night of my
+absence several of the natives came in and, not seeing me around,
+inquired my whereabouts. He gave them an evasive answer, believing that
+it was quite as well not to apprise them of the situation.
+
+The following day, Thursday, November 21st, I covered a wide territory,
+climbing five cinder-cones a great distance apart and each quite high.
+Several times I crossed recent moccasin tracks, but met no natives, and
+at nightfall I was still a long way from my camp. When the darkness
+became so dense that I could not see even faint outlines I took a star
+for guidance till clouds blotted it out. Then I was completely adrift in
+a sea of mountains. I could not tell one direction from another.
+Throwing the reins on the broncho's neck I sat back in my saddle to see
+what would come of it. Slowly, cautiously the animal plodded over
+broken, rocky ground succeeded by smoother footing, as I could tell by
+the motion, and in about an hour suddenly and quietly halted. I
+perceived that I was in the midst of cedars. A light spot appeared
+almost beneath. Dismounting I dropped to my hands and knees and found
+that it was the ashes of my fire. The broncho, the same that had tried
+to buck me off a few days before, had come back to the camp of a single
+night, about the best example of horse sense that I ever experienced.
+After another comfortable evening with Dickens I was prepared to go on
+with my special task, and finished it in this place by climbing the
+group of cones near the Tiravu Picavu the next day. About two in the
+afternoon I got back to my camp with a very tired mount, but I loaded
+all my traps on my saddle, the ice being almost exhausted, and started
+to find a new locality where I was to meet the Major. My pack was high,
+my broncho tired. While crossing a small open valley near sunset the
+poor beast suddenly lay down with me. There being no water anywhere in
+that locality, I was forced to use some brutality to get the animal up.
+Without further incident I came to the place agreed on and found the
+Major there in advance. We camped at the spot and the next day,
+Saturday, November 23d, I climbed five more cones, reaching the camp at
+sunset. Sunday the Major went on with his particular task while I added
+six more of the cones to my list, getting back to the side camp late in
+the day. The Major was to go in by himself when he was ready, so I took
+all the outfit on my horse again, reached the Oak Spring trail at
+sunset, and the main camp two hours after dark, glad enough to drop the
+load of pails, bags, blankets, etc., in which my broncho sympathised
+more deeply than could be expressed.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+Storm Effect from South Rim.]
+
+Monday morning, November 25th, we turned our faces toward Kanab, and I
+climbed four more cones on the way out, overtaking the waggon about an
+hour after dark. The night was very cold and I was ready to enjoy the
+warmth of a fire by the time I reached the camp. In the morning we had a
+visit from Lieutenant Dinwiddie of Lieut. Wheeler's survey. I rode over
+to the cinder-cone region again and climbed the remaining ones, seven or
+eight, reaching camp after dark, the days being very short at this time
+of year. The camp had been moved nearer to the spring in the low line of
+cliffs where we had halted coming out and the Major with his usual
+original ideas had caused the waggon to be lowered by ropes into a deep
+gulch. He had estimated that it was possible to go out through the
+cliffs that way instead of going all the way around. His geological
+knowledge did not lead him astray. There was no trouble whatever in
+taking the waggon up the gulch, and when we emerged we were many miles
+on the road to Pipe Spring, where the Major and I arrived in advance of
+the others. We had dinner and he then went on alone to Kanab, where the
+whole party arrived the next day--Thanksgiving Day. Prof. had come in on
+the 25th by way of St. George, having had a successful tour through the
+Shewits region, all agreements on both sides having been carried out to
+the letter. He had been two weeks in the wild country and Adams declared
+that to him the time was years, his only comfort being that he was
+wearing his "endowment garment," a sure protection from all evil. Prof.
+had climbed Mount Dellenbaugh, though the Shewits objected to Adams's
+going up and he remained on the trail. It was found to be a basaltic
+peak 6650 feet above sea-level, but only 1200 or 1500 above its base. On
+the summit were the ruins of a Shinumo building circular in shape,
+twenty feet in diameter, with walls remaining about two feet high. It
+was not far from the base of this mountain that the Howlands and Dunn
+were killed, Paantung, Prof.'s guide, saying it was done by some "no
+sense" Shewits. Prof. was of the opinion that the guide had been of the
+party himself.
+
+All was preparation in our camp for the departure of the Major for Salt
+Lake and Washington. I had expected to go east at this time also, but
+both the Major and Prof. being desirous of having me remain a while
+longer, to help finish up the preliminary map, I agreed to do so and on
+the 30th of November all the original party set out but Prof., Mrs.
+Thompson, and myself. A new member, John Renshawe, had arrived a few
+days before to assist at the topography. When the party had been gone
+some time it was discovered that they had forgotten several things. I
+took a horse and rode over with the articles to the camp they intended
+to make at Johnson, where I remained till morning. The Major was so
+eager to get an early start that he had all hands up long before
+sunrise. When breakfast was eaten we had to sit by the fire three
+quarters of an hour before there was light enough for the men to trail
+the horses. Then I said good-bye; they went on and I went back. Jones
+and Andy I never saw again.
+
+Prof. concluded to make winter headquarters in Kanab and a lot was
+rented for the purpose. On December 3d, we put up a large tent in one
+corner, with two small ones for rations and saddles. The next day we put
+up one in the other corner for Prof. and Mrs. Thompson, and at the back
+of the lot we arranged a corral for the horses or mules we might want to
+catch. The large tents were floored with pine boards and along the sides
+heavy cedar boughs were placed in crotches around which the guy ropes
+were passed before staking. The tents thus were dry inside and could not
+blow down. A conical iron stove on a boxing of earth heated the large
+tent like a furnace. In the middle of the general tent we placed a long
+drafting-table and were ready for work. Another tent, half boards, was
+erected near ours for kitchen and dining-room, and Riley, who had turned
+up again, hired as cook and master of this structure. Riley, who had
+spent his whole life in camp and saddle, was the best frontier or camp
+cook I ever saw. Scrupulously clean to the last detail of his pots and
+pans, he knew how to make to perfection all manner of eatables possible
+under the circumstances. Prof. arranged for a supply of potatoes,
+butter, meats, and everything within reason, so we lived very well, with
+an occasional dash of Dixie wine to add zest, while on Christmas Day
+Riley prepared a special feast. Though the sky was sombre the town was
+merry and there was a dance in the school-house, but I did not attend.
+Rainy weather set in on the 26th, and the old year welcomed the new in a
+steady downpour, making January 1, 1873, rather a dismal holiday. Even
+the mail which arrived this day was soaked. Toward evening the skies
+lifted somewhat and a four-horse waggon appeared, or rather two mules
+and two horses on a common freighting waggon, in which Lyman Hamblin and
+two others were playing, as nearly in unison as possible, a fiddle, a
+drum, and a fife. While we were admiring this feat we heard Jack's
+hearty shout and saw our waggon returning under his charge from Salt
+Lake with supplies, with a cook stove for our kitchen, and with a new
+suit of clothes for me accompanied by the compliments of Prof. and the
+Major.
+
+Our camp in Kanab was now as complete and comfortable as any one might
+wish, and our work of preparing the map went forward rapidly. As soon as
+it could be finished I was to take it to Salt Lake, and send it by
+express to the Major in Washington, to show Congress what we had been
+doing and what a remarkable region it was that we had been
+investigating. In the evenings we visited our friends in the settlement
+or they visited us, or we read what books, papers, and magazines we
+could get hold of. John and I also amused ourselves by writing down all
+the songs that were sung around camp, to which I added a composition of
+my own to the tune of _Farewell to the Star Spangled Banner_, an
+abandoned rebel one. These words ran:
+
+    Oh, boys, you remember the wild Colorado,
+      Its rapids and its rocks will trouble us no more,
+
+etc., with a mention in the various stanzas of each member of the party
+and his characteristics. The horses became high-spirited with nothing to
+do and plenty of good feed. One of our amusements was to corral several,
+and then, putting saddles on the most prancing specimens, mount and ride
+down on the plain, the horse running at top speed, with the impression
+that he was full master of the situation and expecting us to try to stop
+him. Instead we enjoyed the exhilaration of it, and let the charger
+alone till after a couple of miles he concluded the fun was all on our
+side and took a more moderate gait of his own accord. There were several
+horse races also, and the days flew by. On February 3d I finished
+plotting the river down to the Kanab Canyon, and as if to emphasise this
+point a snow-storm set in. By the 5th the snow was five inches deep, and
+we had word that the snow on the divide to the north over the
+culmination of the various lines of cliffs, where I would have to pass
+to go to Salt Lake, was very heavy. On the 7th the mail rider failed to
+get through. We learned also that an epizoötic had come to Utah and many
+horses were laid up by it, crippling the stage lines. It had been
+planned that I should go north with our own horses till I could connect
+with some stage line, and then take that for the remainder of the
+distance to the Utah Southern Railway, which then had been extended
+south from Salt Lake as far as Lehi.
+
+On the 16th of February, which was Sunday, I put the last touches on the
+map, drawn from the original on a large sheet of tracing cloth, rolled
+it carefully up, and placed it in a long tin tube we had ordered from
+the local tinsmith. This I carried on my back, as I did not mean to be
+separated from it a minute till I gave it into the hands of Wells, Fargo
+& Co.'s express in Salt Lake. Jack was to go with me. Saying a last
+good-bye to Prof. and Mrs. Thompson, to John, and to some of my Kanab
+friends who came to see the start, we left a little after noon, with one
+pack on a broncho mule, Jack riding a mule and I a favourite horse of
+mine called by the unusual name of Billy. The pack-mule always had to be
+blindfolded before we could handle him, and if the blind should
+accidentally slip off there was an instantaneous convulsion which had a
+most disrupting effect. Going straight up the canyon, we crossed over
+finally into Long Valley, and were on the headwaters of the Virgin. At
+sunset we came to a little settlement called Mt. Carmel, but continued
+to Glendale, where we arrived about half-past seven, having come in all
+thirty miles. At the bishop's house we were welcomed and there got some
+supper, putting our three animals in his corral. We did not care to
+sleep in the house, choosing for our resting-place the last remains of a
+haystack, where we spread our blankets, covering the whole with a
+paulin, as the sky looked threatening. I never slept more comfortably in
+my life, except that I was half-aroused in the stillness by water
+trickling down my neck. Half-asleep we pulled the canvas clear up over
+our heads and were troubled no more. When we awoke in the morning a
+heaviness on top of us we knew meant snow. We were covered by a full
+foot of it, soft and dry. Valley, mountain, everything was a solid
+expanse of white, the only dark spot being our red blankets as we threw
+back the paulin. The sky was grey and sullen. More snow was in the air.
+As soon as breakfast was eaten we slung our pack, saddled, and rode up
+the valley, following as well as we could the directions given by the
+bishop. Neither Jack nor I had been this way before. We could see the
+slight depression in the surface of the snow which indicated a
+waggon-rut beneath, and by that token continued up the ever-narrowing
+valley; the slopes sprinkled by large pine trees. Snow fell thickly. It
+was not always easy to see our way, but we went on. At a certain point
+we were to turn to the left up a side gulch, following it till we came
+to the divide, some eight thousand or nine thousand feet above
+sea-level, where we expected to go down to the head of the Sevier
+Valley, where Jack had before been by another route. At the gulch we
+deemed the correct one, no road or trail being visible, we turned late
+in the afternoon to the left and rapidly mounted higher, with the fresh
+snow growing correspondingly deeper till it was about two feet on the
+level. The going was slow and hard, the sky still dropping heavy flakes
+upon us. About five o'clock we found ourselves on the summit of a high
+bald knob topping the world. In every direction through the snow-mist
+similar bald knobs could be seen looming against the darkening sky. The
+old drifts were so deep that where a horse broke through the crust he
+went down to the end of his leg. This excited them, and they plunged
+wildly. I finally got them all three still and quiet, while Jack scanned
+the outlook intently. "See any landmark, Jack?" said I. "Not a damned
+thing I ever saw before!" answered Jack. At brief intervals the falling
+snow would cease, and we could see more clearly, except that the
+impending night began to cast over all a general obscurity.
+
+There was a deep valley beyond to the right. While it was not possible
+to tell directions we felt that our course must lie there, and I led the
+way down a long treeless slope, breaking a path as well as I could, my
+horse following behind; the others urged on by Jack from the rear. The
+snow became shallower near the bottom. We mounted and I rode in the
+direction that Jack thought we ought to take to come to the road down
+the Sevier where he had before travelled. We crossed the valley in doing
+this, but at one point in the very bottom my horse wanted to turn to the
+left, which would have taken us down the deepening valley. I prevented
+his turning and we continued up a gulch a mile or two, where it narrowed
+till we could barely proceed. Jack then climbed up on a cliff and
+disappeared, endeavouring to see some familiar object, the falling snow
+having at last stopped. I stood in my tracks with the three animals and
+waited so long I began to be afraid that Jack had met with an accident.
+Just then I heard him descending. It was nearly dark. He could not see
+any sign of the region he had been in before. Snow and darkness puzzle
+one even in a familiar country. We then went back to the valley where
+the horse had wished to turn and followed it down, now believing that it
+might be the right way after all, for Billy had been over the road
+several times. Another example of horse sense, which seems to prove that
+horses know more than we think they do. We had expected to reach Asa's
+ranch before night and had not brought an axe, in consequence. Keeping
+down the valley till we came to a group of cedars, some of which were
+dead, and a tall pine tree, we camped, pulling branches from the cedars
+and bark from the pine for a fire, which quickly melted its way down to
+the ground, leaving a convenient seat all round about twenty inches
+high, upon which we laid blankets to sit on. Our pack contained enough
+food for supper; breakfast would have to take care of itself. We also
+had some grain, which we fed to the hungry animals and tied them under
+the cedars, where they were protected in a measure from the sharp wind
+though they were standing in deep snow. For ourselves we cut twigs from
+the green cedars and made a thick mattress on the snow with them. Our
+blankets on top of these made a bed fit for a king. The storm cleared
+entirely; a brilliant moon shone over all, causing the falling frost in
+the air to scintillate like diamonds.
+
+In the morning, Tuesday, February 18th, we packed up at once, having
+nothing left to eat, and proceeded down the valley wondering if we were
+on the right road or not. The sky arched over with that deep tone that
+is almost black in winter in high altitudes, and the sun fell in a
+dazzling sheet upon the wide range of unbroken white. The surface was
+like a mirror; the eyes closed against the intense light instinctively.
+As we went on northwards and downwards a faint, double, continuous
+hollow began to appear on the snow--a waggon-track at the bottom. It
+became more and more distinct and we then felt sure that we were on the
+right road, though we were not positive till near noon when, approaching
+a rocky point, we suddenly heard the clear ring of an axe on the
+metallic air. A few moments later turning this we saw a large, swift
+stream flowing clear between snowy banks, and beyond a log cabin with
+blue smoke rising from the immense stone chimney. In front was a man
+chopping wood. His dog was barking. It was a welcome, a beautiful
+picture of frontier comfort. It was Asa's ranch. Asa was one of the men
+who helped the Major on his arrival at the mouth of the Virgin in 1869,
+now having changed his residence to this place. We were soon made
+welcome in the single large room of the cabin where all the family were,
+and while the horses were having a good feed an equally good one for us
+was prepared by Mrs. Asa on the fire burning snugly in the great
+chimney. Never did fried ham, boiled eggs, and hot coffee do better
+service. We could not have been more cordially received if these Mormons
+had been our own relatives.
+
+We rested there till about three o'clock, when we bade them all good-bye
+and rode on down the valley, the snow continually lessening in depth,
+till, when we reached the much lower altitude of Panguitch at sunset,
+twenty-six miles from our night's camp, there were only three or four
+inches and the temperature was not nearly so low, though still very
+cold. According to custom we applied to the bishop for accomodation for
+ourselves and our stock and were again cordially received. We were
+quickly made comfortable before a bright fire on the hearth which
+illumed the whole room. While the good wife got supper, the bishop, an
+exceedingly pleasant man, brought out some Dixie wine he had recently
+received. He poured us out each a large goblet and took one himself.
+After a hearty supper Jack and I put down our blankets on the bishop's
+haystack and knew nothing more till sunrise. Leaving Panguitch we rode
+on down the Sevier, crossing it frequently, and made about forty miles,
+passing through Sevier Canyon and Circle Valley, where there were a
+number of deserted houses, and arrived for night at the ranch of a
+Gentile named Van Buren. By this time my eyes, which had been inflamed
+by the strong glare of the sun, began to feel as if they were full of
+sand, and presently I became aware that I was afflicted with that
+painful malady snowblindness. I could barely see, the pain in both eyes
+was extreme, and a river of tears poured forth continually. Other men
+whom we heard of as we went on were blinded worse than I. All I could
+do, having no goggles, was to keep my hat pulled down and cut off the
+glare as much as possible.[39] At Marysvale the stage had been
+abandoned. We kept on, finding as we advanced that all the stages were
+put out of business by the epizoötic. There was nothing for Jack to do
+but to go on with me to Nephi.
+
+In riding through one village I saw a sign on the closed door of a store
+just off the road and my curiosity led me to ride up close enough to
+read it. I did not linger. The words I saw were "SMALL POX." That night
+we reached Nephi under the shadow of the superb Mount Nebo, where I
+tried again for a stage so that Jack could return. No stage arrived and
+the following morning we rode on northward over very muddy roads,
+finally reaching Spanish Fork, where a fresh snow-storm covered the
+country about a foot, making travelling still more difficult. Another
+day's journey put us as far as American Fork, only three miles from the
+end of the railway, a place called Lehi, for which we made a very early
+start the next day, Wednesday, February 25th, but when we arrived there
+through the mud and slush the train had taken its departure. Our pack
+mule was now very lame and travelled with difficulty, but we continued
+on toward Salt Lake. The train had become stalled in the immense
+snowdrifts at the Point-of-the-Mountain and there we overtook it. I was
+soon on board with my tin case and other baggage, but it was a
+considerable time before the gang of men and a snow plough extricated
+the train. About five o'clock we ran into the town. I went to the Walker
+House, then the best hotel, and that night slept in a real room and a
+real bed for the first time in nearly two years, but I opened the
+windows as wide as they would go. In the morning I sent off the map and
+then turned my attention to seeing the Mormon capital. Cap. was now
+living there and it was Fennemore's home. I also found Bonnemort and
+MacEntee in town, and Jack came on up the remaining short distance in
+order to take a fresh start for Kanab.
+
+Nearly forty years have slipped away since the events chronicled in this
+volume. Never was there a more faithful, resolute band of explorers than
+ours. Many years afterward Prof. said in a letter to me speaking of the
+men of the Second Powell Expedition, "I have never seen since such zeal
+and courage displayed." From out the dark chasm of eternity comes the
+hail, "Tirtaan Aigles dis wai!" and already many of that little company
+have crossed to Killiloo. The Major and Prof. repose in the sacred
+limits of Arlington. Strew their graves with roses and forget them not.
+They did a great work in solving the last geographical problem of the
+United States.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 35: Professor Thompson declared to me not long before his
+death that the river was accurate as far as Catastrophe Rapid, (about
+where longitude 113.39 intersects the river) but from there to the
+Virgin it might need some corrections.]
+
+[Footnote 36: Some men from Kanab afterwards came in, sawed one in two
+and made it shorter, and then tried to go up the canyon by towing. They
+did not get far, and the boat was abandoned. The floods then carried
+both down to destruction.]
+
+[Footnote 37: A description of this journey ascribed to September, 1870,
+occurs at page 108, _et seq._, in Powell's report on the _Exploration of
+the Colorado River of the West_, 1875.]
+
+[Footnote 38: Oonupits or Innupits is the singular, Innupin the plural.
+It may be translated witch, elf, or goblin, with evil tendencies. On the
+other hand they did not fear a spirit. When on the Kaibab in July with
+Chuar and several other Indians, Prof. while riding along heard a cry
+something like an Indian halloo. "After we got into camp," he said in
+his diary: "Chuar asked George Adair what he called that which lived
+after the body died. George replied, 'A spirit.' 'Well,' said Chuar,
+'that was what hallooed in the forest to-day. It was the spirit of a
+dead Indian. I have often heard it. Sometimes it is near, sometimes far
+away. When I was here with Beaman I heard it call near me. I answered,
+telling it to come to me. It did not come nor reply, and I felt very
+much ashamed to think I had called.'"]
+
+[Footnote 39: For travelling across snow one should always be provided
+with smoked goggles. Failing to have them, lines of charcoal should be
+drawn below the eyes or a scarf tied so as to break the glare.]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+A
+
+Adair, George, 153, 241
+
+Adams, Nathan, 241, 253;
+  his endowment garment, 259
+
+Agua Grande, Navajo chief, 147
+
+Aigles, Tirtaan, slogan, 75, 267
+
+Alcove Brook, 47
+
+Altitude of Colorado River above sea, Black's Fork, 15;
+  Junction Green and Grand, 114;
+  Paria, 151, 217;
+  Grand Wash, 217;
+  Little Colorado, 223;
+  Kanab Canyon, 241
+
+American Fork, 266
+
+Amerind, viii.
+
+Andy, _see_ Hattan
+
+Aquarius Plateau, 200, 202
+
+Arlington, Powell and Thompson buried there, 267
+
+Arms, kind used, 12
+
+Asa, ranch, 264, 265;
+  assisted Powell, 265
+
+Ashley, Wm. H., through Red Canyon, 2, 28, 95;
+  name on rocks, 28
+
+Ashley Falls, 26;
+  portage at, 27
+
+Ashtishkal, Navajo chief, 177
+
+Aspen Lakes, 201
+
+Averett, Elijah, grave of, 197
+
+Azure Cliffs, 99
+
+
+B
+
+Baird, Professor Spencer, vi.
+
+Bangs, Mount, climbed, 194
+
+Barbenceta, principal chief of the Navajos, 168
+
+Base line, 166, 173, 174
+
+Basor, teamster, 68
+
+Beadle, J. H., 215;
+  under name of Hanson, 215
+
+Beaman, E. O., place in boat, 11;
+  duty of, 11;
+  leaves party, 179;
+  passes Paria on way to Moki Towns, 216;
+  up from Kanab Canyon to Surprise Valley, 241
+
+Beaver, ground, 77;
+  shoot one, 78;
+  steak cooked, 78;
+  soup, 78
+
+Berry's Spring, 188;
+  arrive at, 191
+
+Berthoud and Bridger lay out waggon road, 67
+
+Best Expedition, place of starting, 95
+
+Big Boulder Creek, 202
+
+Bishop, Francis Marion (Cap.), place in boat, 11;
+  duty of, 11;
+  leaves party, 180
+
+Bishop's Creek, 54
+
+Bison, pictographs, 61;
+  range on Green River, 61
+
+Black Rock Canyon, 193
+
+Black's Fork, 15
+
+Boats of the Second Powell Expedition, the, 4;
+  names of, 4;
+  described, 5, 6;
+  method of packing, 8;
+  order of going, 11;
+  crews of, 11;
+  no iron on keels, 14;
+  built to float when full of water, 25;
+  reassignment of crews, 136, 215;
+  _Cañonita_ cached, 135;
+  launched again, 209;
+  crew for, 209;
+  _Dean_ cached, 154;
+  _Nellie Powell_ cached, 154;
+  _Dean_ discovered by Beadle, 215;
+  _Nellie Powell_ abandoned, 215;
+  _Cañonita_ and _Dean_ abandoned, 244
+
+Bonito Bend, 111
+
+Bonnemort, John, 143;
+  leaves party, 179;
+  in Salt Lake City, 267
+
+Boston burned, news of, received, 256
+
+Bow-knot Bend, 108
+
+Bread, kind used, 4
+
+Bridger and Berthoud lay out waggon road, 67
+
+Bridger, Jim, 95
+
+Brigham Young, 170, 185
+
+Bright Angel Creek, arrive at mouth of, 232;
+  why so named, 232
+
+Brown expedition, place of starting, 95
+
+Brown's Hole, name changed to Brown's Park, 18, 30;
+  arrive at, 30
+
+Brush Creek, 54
+
+Buckskin Mountain (Kaibab Plateau), 159
+
+Buenaventura, Rio San, Escalante's name for Green River, 67
+
+Buffalo _Express_, letters from F. S. Dellenbaugh to, vii.
+
+Butte of the Cross, 110
+
+
+C
+
+Campbell, Richard, knew of ford El Vado de los Padres, 96
+
+Camp moved to the Gap, 171
+
+_Cañonita_, left behind, 135;
+  reached overland, 209
+
+Canyon of Desolation, enter it, 77;
+  character and height of walls, 80, 84, 85;
+  length of, 91
+
+Canyon of Lodore, enter it, 34;
+  declivity of, 43;
+  length of, 48;
+  fall of, 48
+
+Canyons, for list of, with heights of walls, lengths, etc.,
+      see _The Romance of the Colorado River_, Appendix
+
+Canyons not dark in daytime, 25
+
+Cap., _see_ Bishop
+
+Capsize, of the _Cañonita_, 23;
+  of the _Dean_, 235
+
+Carleton, companion of Beaman, 216
+
+Carson, Kit, 95
+
+Cascade Creek, 43, 202
+
+Cascades of rain, 105, 106, 132
+
+Cataract Canyon, declivity compared, 43;
+  beginning of, 115;
+  height of walls, 116, 122, 126, 128, 129;
+  we enter it, 118;
+  declivity in, 118;
+  boulders rolled by current, 118;
+  width of river, 119;
+  boat runs rapid alone, 121;
+  stones rocked by current, 127;
+  length of, 132;
+  end of, 132;
+  number of rapids, 132
+
+Cataract Creek, 96, 202
+
+Catastrophe Rapid, vi., 242, 243
+
+Caves once occupied, 132
+
+Chandler Falls, 87;
+  Creek, 87
+
+Chicago, burning of, first news, 157
+
+Chicago _Tribune_, letters from Clement Powell to, v.
+
+Chief Douglas, Major and Mrs. Powell winter near his camp, 172
+
+Chocolate Cliffs, 166
+
+Chuarooumpeak, chief of Kaibab band of Pai Utes, 250;
+  shoots at Oonupits, 252;
+  singing, 252;
+  hears spirit call, 253;
+  goes back to Kanab, 254
+
+Circle Valley, pass through it, 266
+
+Clarkson, Mormon settlement, 197
+
+Clear or Spring Creek (Badger Creek), 158
+
+Clem, _see_ Powell
+
+Clemente, Rio San, Escalante's name for White River, 67
+
+Cliff-of-the-Harp named, 43
+
+Coal Canyon, 91
+
+Colob Plateau, 191
+
+Colorado, from, into Utah, 56
+
+Colorado River, accuracy of plat of course, vi., vii., 243;
+  upper continuation of, 1;
+  white salmon, 98;
+  actual beginning of, 115;
+  excessive high water, 244
+
+Compass Creek, 24
+
+Condition of party at end of first season's river work, 145
+
+Course of the Colorado River, accuracy of, vi., vii., 243
+
+Craggy Canyon, 57
+
+Crater, recent, in Uinkaret country, 188
+
+Creek, Sentinel, 149
+
+Crescent Creek, 209
+
+Crossing of the Fathers, the, _see_ El Vado de los Padres
+
+
+D
+
+Dance, Mormon, 173
+
+Davy Crockett, Fort, 30
+
+_Dean_, the _Emma_, cached for the winter, 154;
+  discovered by J. H. Beadle, 215
+
+Deer, game, etc., 26
+
+Dellenbaugh, Butte, 102, 104;
+  Mount, named, 254;
+  Thompson climbs it, 259
+
+Dellenbaugh, F. S., joins party, 3;
+  position in boat, 11;
+  duty of, 11;
+  letters from, to Buffalo _Express_, vii.
+
+De Motte, Professor, 213
+
+Denver, Colorado Canyon, and Pacific Railway, 119
+
+Denver and Rio Grande Railway crossing of Green River, 95
+
+Denver to Salt Lake, waggon road _via_ Golden and Provo,
+      and Robideau Crossing of Green River, 67
+
+Descent, in feet of Green-Colorado River, from Union Pacific
+      Railway to Black's Fork, 15;
+  to Flaming Gorge, 17;
+  in Red Canyon, 33;
+  in Lodore, 48;
+  in Whirlpool, 56;
+  to the mouth of the Uinta, 71;
+  from Wonsits Valley to Gunnison Crossing, 93;
+  from the Union Pacific to Gunnison Crossing, 93;
+  from Gunnison Crossing to junction of Green and Grand, 114;
+  from Union Pacific to mouth of Grand River, 114;
+  from mouth of Grand River to Dirty Devil, 134;
+  from Union Pacific to Dirty Devil (Frémont), 135;
+  from Union Pacific to Paria (Lee Ferry), 151;
+  from Paria to Little Colorado, 223;
+  from Little Colorado to Grand Wash, 223;
+  from Little Colorado to Kanab, 241;
+  from Paria to Kanab, 241
+
+Desolation, Canyon of, enter it, 77;
+  perforations in walls of, 82;
+  width of river in, 83, 89;
+  height of walls, 84, 85;
+  natural arches in, 87, 88;
+  end of, 91;
+  length of, 91
+
+Diamond Butte, how named, 192
+
+Diamond Creek mouth astronomically determined, 95
+
+Diary, of Professor Thompson, vii.;
+  of John F. Steward, vii.;
+  of F. S. Dellenbaugh, vii.;
+  of Jack Summer, 7
+
+Dinwiddie, Lieut., 258
+
+Dirty Devil Mountains, _see_ Unknown Mountains
+
+Dirty Devil (Frémont) River, viii.;
+  point of junction with Colorado, 3;
+  failure to get to it overland, 70, 99;
+  arrive at mouth by river, 133;
+  overland trip to, 195;
+  on head of, according to Dodds, 199;
+  mistake discovered, 199, 200;
+  reach mouth of, overland, 209
+
+Disaster Falls, 39;
+  dinner from wreckage of _No-name_, 40;
+  fall of river at, 42
+
+Distance, from Union Pacific Railway to Gate of Lodore, 33;
+  to Echo Park, 48;
+  to junction of Green and Grand, 114;
+  to Dirty Devil, 135;
+  Paria to Little Colorado, 223;
+  Little Colorado to Kanab Canyon, 241;
+  Wonsits Valley to Gunnison Crossing, 93.
+  _See also_ Appendix, _Romance of the Colorado River_
+
+Dixie, name for Virgin Valley, 164
+
+Dodds, Captain Pardyn, fails to reach Dirty Devil River, 70;
+  meet him at El Vado, 143
+
+Dog, Dandie Dinmont, of Mrs. Thompson, 166, 195
+
+Douglas Boy, first meeting with, 64;
+  comes to mouth of Uinta, 70;
+  an eloper, 71;
+  farewell to, 76
+
+Dummy and his prophecy, 9
+
+Dunn, William H., vi.;
+  name carved in Music Temple, 141;
+  killed by Shewits, 141, 259
+
+Dunn's Cliff, 43
+
+Dutch oven, 4
+
+Dutton, Major, vii.
+
+
+E
+
+Echo, Cliff, 49;
+  Park, 49;
+  Rock, 53;
+  Peaks, how named, 151
+
+Eight Mile Spring, camp at, 165
+
+El Vado de los Padres (Crossing of the Fathers), 7, 8, 41, 95, 96;
+  first white man to ford after Escalante, 96;
+  arrive at, 1871, 143;
+  description of, 168;
+  arrive at, 1872, 210;
+  early known by Richard Campbell, 96
+
+Emma, Sister, a wife of John D. Lee, 211
+
+Endowment garment, Adams wears one, 259
+
+Epizoötic visits Utah, 262
+
+Escalante, his crossing of the Colorado, 7;
+  Sierra, 43;
+  of Green River, 67;
+  his name for Green River, 67;
+  for White River, 67;
+  River, 210;
+  river named by Professor Thompson, 210
+
+
+F
+
+Failure Creek, 129
+
+Fennemore, joins party, 187;
+  falls sick, 212;
+  leaves party, 216;
+  in Salt Lake, 267
+
+Field, 5;
+  arm-chair obtained from, 8;
+  breakfast at, 9
+
+Flaming Gorge, 1, 2;
+  height of walls, 17;
+  Green River enters, 17;
+  accessibility, 20;
+  gateway to the series of canyons, 22
+
+Frank, _see_ Richardson
+
+Frank, Pai Ute, _see_ Chuarooumpeak
+
+Frémont, River, 3;
+  _see_ Dirty Devil;
+  General, 95;
+
+First Granite Gorge of the Grand Canyon, declivity in, 43
+
+First Powell Expedition, v.;
+  plat of river by, vi., 2, 96;
+  boats of, x.
+
+Food supply exhausted, 141
+
+Fort Davy Crockett, 30
+
+Fort Defiance, Jacob Hamblin goes there, 143
+
+Fort Pierce, 188
+
+Fort Robideau, 67;
+  only house on the river, 72
+
+Fretwater Falls, 83
+
+Fuzz, Mrs. Thompson's dog, 166, 195
+
+
+G
+
+Gate of Lodore, 32
+
+Gentile frontier town compared with Mormon, 174
+
+Gila monster, 245
+
+Gilbert, G. K., vii., 136
+
+Glen Canyon, beginning, 137;
+  width of river in, 139;
+  height of walls, 139-143;
+  end of, 151
+
+Glencove, attempt to reach Dirty Devil River from, 99
+
+Glendale, Mormon settlement, 262
+
+Goblin City, journey to, 68;
+  description of, 69
+
+Gold, found on Colorado, 144;
+  at mouth of Kanab, 174;
+  miners go after, 185
+
+Golden to Provo, waggon road, 67
+
+Gosi-Utes, Gunnison killed by, 95
+
+Gould's ranch, 190
+
+Grand Canyon, Jacob Hamblin circumtours it, 96;
+  Powell finds way in to the mouth of the Kanab, 174;
+  Dodds and Jones get to it, 188;
+  Whitmore describes a crossing, 188;
+  Dodds and Johnson reach river, 189;
+  Dodds and Dellenbaugh go to river at Lava Falls, 192;
+  Marble division begins, 216;
+  length of, including Marble Canyon, 217;
+  beginning of, 223;
+  enter it, 223
+
+Grand River, 109
+
+Grand Wash, 96;
+  altitude of, 217
+
+Granite, the, runs up, 225
+
+Grant, news of election of, 256
+
+Graves, ancient, discovered, 77
+
+Gray Canyon, enter it, 91;
+  colour, height, and character of walls, 91, 92;
+  end of, 93;
+  length of, 93
+
+Gray Cliffs, 164
+
+Great Basin, 164
+
+Green River, points on, astronomically fixed before Powell, 19, 95
+
+Green River City, arrive there, 3;
+  described, 5;
+  settlements below, 8
+
+Green River Suck, 20
+
+Green River Valley, 1, 2
+
+Grizzly bears, 26
+
+Gunnison, Captain, crossed Green River, 95;
+  killed, 95
+
+Gunnison Butte, 93, 99
+
+Gunnison Crossing, Powell plans to rejoin his party there, 70
+
+Gypsum Canyon, 127
+
+
+H
+
+Habasu (Havasu), 96
+
+Haight, 153, 157
+
+Hamblin, Frank, 254
+
+Hamblin, Fred, 99
+
+Hamblin, Jacob, scout and pioneer, 96;
+  first after Escalante to cross at El Vado, 96;
+  circumtours the Marble and Grand canyons, 96;
+  arrives at Paria, 153;
+  treaty with Navajos, 168;
+  title of his book, 169;
+  Indian engagements, 170;
+  goes to Mt. Trumbull with Powell, 170;
+  wives of, 174;
+  hears plot to ambush, 243
+
+Hamblin, Joseph, 156, 241
+
+Hamblin, Lyman, 99
+
+Hanson, name assumed by J. H. Beadle, 215
+
+Harrell brothers, camp in Brown's Park, 30
+
+Hastele, Navajo chief, 169
+
+Hattan, Andrew, 4;
+  place in boat, 11;
+  his call to meals, 11;
+  departure, 260
+
+Headquarters, winter, of, 1872-73, 260
+
+Hell's Half Mill, 44
+
+Henry Mountains (Unknown Mts., _q. v._), 207
+
+Henry's Fork, mouth of, 17;
+  astronomically fixed, 95
+
+Henry, Professor Joseph, vi.
+
+Henry (Azure) Cliffs, 99
+
+Hidden Lakes, the, 201
+
+High Plateaus of Utah, continuation of Wasatch Range, 95;
+  end of, 164
+
+Hillers, John K., joins party, 7;
+  catches fish, 15;
+  songs of, 52, 74;
+  catches salmon, 98;
+  photographer, 217;
+  hurts his back, 225;
+  trip to Moki towns, 248
+
+Hog-backs, topographical feature described, 198
+
+Hook, Theodore, drowned, 25;
+  grave of, 25
+
+Horse discovered, 90
+
+Horse sense, 258, 264
+
+Horseshoe Canyon, why so called, 21
+
+Hotel Tovar, 232
+
+House ruins, Shinumo, 112, 137, 138
+
+House Rock Spring, 157, 160
+
+House Rock Valley, 160, 175
+
+Howland, Seneca, and O. G., 141
+
+Howlands and Dunn, vi., vii.;
+  why killed by Shewits, 171;
+  left first party, 242;
+  killed near Mt. Dellenbaugh, 259
+
+Hurricane Hill, 190
+
+Hurricane Ledge, 190
+
+
+I
+
+Illustrations in Powell's _Report_, x.
+
+Innupin, definition of, 252
+
+Innupin Picavu (Water-pocket), 251
+
+Island Park, 56
+
+Ives, comes up Colorado, 1858, 2;
+  reconnoitres south of Grand Canyon, 96;
+  names North Side Mountains, 186
+
+
+J
+
+Jack, _see_ Hillers
+
+Jacob, _see_ Hamblin
+
+Jacob's Pools, 159
+
+Johnson, Will, 186;
+  leaves party, 211
+
+Johnson's, Mormon settlement 166
+
+Jones, S. V., 10;
+  place in boat, 11;
+  falls ill, 152;
+  leaves, 260
+
+Julien, D., inscriptions by, 108, 113, 118
+
+Junction, the, of the Grand and Green, 113;
+  summit at, 116;
+  trail to, 118
+
+
+K
+
+Kaibab (Buckskin Mountain), seen from Echo Peaks, 150;
+  band of Pai Utes, 177;
+  trip to south-west corner of, 182;
+  Point F established on, 184;
+  seen from Marble Canyon, 222
+
+Kanab, settlement of, 8;
+  headquarters, 145;
+  headquarters, winter of 1872-73, 260;
+  description of, 166;
+  base line near, 173;
+  Christmas dance, 173
+
+Kanab Canyon, journey up, 185, 244;
+  supplies to be brought in there, 224
+
+Kapurats, Pai Ute name for Major Powell, 171
+
+Kettle Creek, 24
+
+Killiloo, refrain, 75, 81, 226, 267
+
+Kingfisher Canyon, 22;
+  why so called, 22
+
+Kingfisher Creek, 21
+
+Kit Carson, 95
+
+Koneco, Navajo chief, 154
+
+
+L
+
+Labyrinth Canyon, enter it, 105;
+  end of, 110;
+  length of, 110
+
+La Sal, Sierra, 103, 109, 127
+
+Latter-Day Saints, 212
+
+Lava Falls, Dodds and Dellenbaugh climb to river there, 192
+
+Leaping Brook, 46
+
+Lee, John Doyle, 195;
+  settles at Paria, 210;
+  meet him, 210;
+  wife Rachel, 210;
+  wife Emma (his XVIII.), 210;
+  called Naguts, 211;
+  executed, 211
+
+Lee Ferry, 215
+
+Lehi, Mormon town, 262, 266
+
+Let-down, 26;
+  method of accomplishing a, 90
+
+Letters from Clement Powell to the Chicago _Tribune_, v.;
+  from F. S. Dellenbaugh to the Buffalo _Express_, vii.
+
+Life preservers, 8;
+  indispensable, 237
+
+Light, the controversy of the, 63
+
+Lighthouse Rock, 80
+
+Lignite Canyon, 91
+
+Line portage, 26
+
+Little Brown's Hole, 29;
+  name changed to Red Canyon Park, 29
+
+Little Canyon, 31
+
+Little Colorado, canyon of, forms division between Marble and
+      Grand Canyons, 217;
+  mouth of, 222;
+  altitude of mouth, 223
+
+Little White, or Price River, 92
+
+Little Zion Valley, 190
+
+Lodore Canyon, party goes through on the ice, 2;
+  gate of, 32;
+  why so called, 32;
+  we enter it, 34;
+  width of river in, 35, 42, 43;
+  velocity of current in, 35, 42;
+  sunlight in, 36;
+  wreckage found in, 41;
+  height of walls, 42, 43, 46;
+  character of 42;
+  declivity in, 43;
+  end of, 48;
+  length of, 48
+
+Logan, Mt., 188
+
+Log-cabin Cliff, 84
+
+Lonely Dell, 211
+
+Long Valley, route _via_, 262
+
+Lost Creek (Crescent Creek), 209
+
+Louisa, a wife of Jacob Hamblin, 174, 195, 250
+
+Lower Disaster Falls, 42
+
+
+M
+
+MacEntee, 166;
+  leaves party, 179;
+  in Salt Lake, 267
+
+Mackenzie, General, ix.,
+  map A, facing page 95
+
+Macomb, 95
+
+"Major, The" viii., _see_ Powell, John Wesley
+
+Mangum, Joseph, 153;
+  the lost guide, 155, 157
+
+Manti, Mormon settlement, 99, 174
+
+Map, accuracy of plat of Colorado River, vi., vii., 243;
+  sheets giving Colorado River, viii.;
+  preliminary, finished, 262;
+  sent to Washington, 267
+
+Marble Canyon, 150;
+  miners wrecked in, 195, 217;
+  enter it, 216;
+  total length with Grand Canyon, 217;
+  height of walls, 216, 217-222;
+  end of 222;
+  descent in, 223;
+  number of rapids in, 223
+
+Markargunt Plateau, 191
+
+Meek, Joseph, goes through Lodore on the ice, 95
+
+Melvin Falls, 86
+
+Millecrag Bend, 129, 132
+
+Moki (Hopi) ruin, 79
+
+Monument built 1869 by Powell, 78
+
+Mookoontoweap or Little Zion Valley, 190
+
+Mormon, settlements, 96;
+  method of pioneering, 167, 174;
+  dance, 173
+
+Mt. Carmel, Mormon settlement, 262
+
+Mount Dellenbaugh, named, 254;
+  altitude, 259;
+  Shinumo remains on, 259
+
+Mount Ellen, Henry Mountains, 208
+
+Mount Hillers, Henry Mountains, 208
+
+Mount Logan, 188, 253
+
+Mount Nebo, 266
+
+Mount Pennell, Henry Mountains, 207, 208
+
+Mount Seneca Howland (Navajo Mt.), 141
+
+Mountain Meadows massacre, 195;
+  Lee's version, 211
+
+Music Temple, grotto, 141, 210
+
+
+N
+
+Narrow Canyon, 3, 133
+
+Natural arches in Canyon of Desolation, 87, 88
+
+Navajos, agency, 143;
+  meet with, 146;
+  afraid of our boats, 153;
+  dance with, 154;
+  ceremonial, 177
+
+Navajo Creek, 149
+
+Navajo Mountain, 139, 141, 201
+
+Navajo Well, 175, 248
+
+Nephi, 266
+
+New Year's Day, 1872, 174;
+  1873, 260
+
+_No-name_, boat, wreck of, 38
+
+North Side Mountains (Uinkaret Mts.), 186
+
+
+O
+
+Oak Spring, 187, 188, 191
+
+Old Jacob, _see_ Jacob Hamblin
+
+Old Spanish Trail, 95, 246
+
+Oonupits, sound made by, 252;
+  described, 252;
+  Indian shoots at, 252
+
+Orange Cliffs, 110
+
+Order of going, 11, 72, 136, 215
+
+Overland Stage Co. road, Salt Lake to Denver _via_ Provo,
+      Robideau Crossing, and Golden, 67
+
+
+P
+
+Paantung, Thompson's Shewits guide, 259
+
+Painted Desert, 150
+
+Pai Ute women, Jacob Hamblin, scaled to, 174;
+  language without an "F," 250;
+  name for Major Powell, 250;
+  name for Professor Thompson, 250;
+  name for Dellenbaugh, 250;
+  George, Waytoots, Chuar, 250;
+  _see also_ Chuarooumpeak;
+  method of cooking rabbits, 252
+
+Pai Utes, despised by Navajos, 170;
+  Kaibab band of, 177;
+  wickiups, 177;
+  arms, 178;
+  rabbit skin robe, 178;
+  fire obtained by drill, 178;
+  ceremonial, 178;
+  songs, 178, 179;
+  stone arrowhead making, 178
+
+Panguitch, arrive at, 265
+
+Paria, 95, 151, 197;
+  up cliffs at, 155;
+  settlement, 166
+
+Parowan, 248
+
+Patnish, chief of renegades, 8, 167, 250
+
+Photographic outfit, 6, 58
+
+Pictographs, 61
+
+Pierce, Fort, 188, 191
+
+Pine Valley Mountains, 189, 190
+
+Pink Cliffs, 164
+
+Pipe Spring, 185;
+  Wash, 185
+
+Plateau Province, the, 109
+
+Point F, 184
+
+Portage, line, 26;
+  method of making, 40
+
+Potato Valley, 199
+
+Powell, Clement, letters from to Chicago _Tribune_, v.;
+  place in boat, 11;
+  duties of, 11;
+  leaves party, 259
+
+Powell, Emma Dean (Mrs. J. W.), 7;
+  and infant daughter, 165;
+  in Middle Park, 172;
+  leaves for Washington, 179
+
+Powell, John Wesley (The Major), the conqueror of the Colorado, 2;
+  title in Volunteer Army, 2;
+  first descent of Colorado; v., 3, 96,
+  no right arm, 8;
+  titles of reports, v., vi.,
+  position in boat, 11;
+  duty of, 11;
+  goes up Yampa, 50;
+  on Yampa River 1868, 50;
+  goes ahead to Uinta, 56;
+  to Salt Lake, 67, 70, 99, 144, 179, 259, 266;
+  songs of, 73;
+  rejoins party, 98;
+  fails to reach Dirty Devil overland, 99;
+  leaves for Washington, 179, 259;
+  reports through Smithsonian Institution, vi.;
+  runs course of river, vii;
+  buried at Arlington, 267
+
+Price River, 92
+
+"Prof.," viii.,
+  _see_ Thompson, A. H.
+
+Provo to Golden, waggon road, 67
+
+_Putnam's Magazine_, copy found, 43
+
+
+R
+
+Rabbits, Pai Ute method of cooking, 252
+
+Rain cascades, 105, 106, 132
+
+Rapid, the first, 21;
+  method of running, 35, 36;
+  tails of, 36;
+  eddys at, 36;
+  Catastrophe, vi., 242, 243
+
+Rations, 4, 111, 119
+
+Red Canyon, 2;
+  entrance of, 22;
+  upset of _Nellie Powell_ in, 23;
+  width of river in, 24;
+  speed of current, 24;
+  height of cliffs, 24, 28;
+  end of, 30
+
+Red Canyon Park, 29
+
+Red Cliff, 176
+
+Red Lake Utes, Jacob pacifies them, 170;
+  meet with band of, 204
+
+Regiment marches from Salt Lake to Denver, 68
+
+Renshawe, John, joins party, 259
+
+Richardson, Frank C. A., 10;
+  position in boats, 11;
+  skill in dressing deer, 16;
+  leaves party, 31
+
+Riggs, 157
+
+Riggs, Charley, 248
+
+Riley, George, 143;
+  head of pack train, 156;
+  cook, 260
+
+Rio, San Buenaventura, 67;
+  San Clemente, 67;
+  San Rafael, 95, 103;
+  San Juan, 140, 210
+
+Robideau, crossing of Green River, 67;
+  Fort, 67
+
+Rocking stones in current, 127
+
+Roundy, Lorenzo W., 153
+
+Rudder useless on the Colorado, x.
+
+
+S
+
+Sag, the, at Disaster Falls, 38
+
+St. George, Mormon settlement, 194
+
+Salmon, white, caught, 98
+
+Salt Lake City, 7, 17;
+  the major goes to, 67, 70, 99, 144, 179, 259, 266
+
+Salt Lake to Denver, waggon road, _via_ Provo and Golden, 67
+
+San Clemente, Rio, Escalante's name for White River, 67
+
+San Francisco Mts., seen from Mt. Trumbull, 187;
+  from Echo Peaks, 250
+
+San Juan River, mouth of, 140;
+  pass it, 1872, 210
+
+San Rafael River, 95;
+  arrive at, 103
+
+Santa Fé and Los Angeles trail, 94
+
+Santa Fé Railway to the Grand Canyon, x.
+
+Scorpions, 132
+
+Second Powell expedition, the, vi., 3;
+  material used for report on first expedition, vi.;
+  supplies of, 4;
+  method of sacking rations, 6;
+  ready to start, 8;
+  personnel of, 11
+
+Selden, 95
+
+Sentinel Rock and Sentinel Creek, 149
+
+Sevier Canyon, 266
+
+Sharp Mountain Falls, 91
+
+Shewits, killed Powell's men, vii., 96;
+  territory of, 186;
+  afraid of us, 191;
+  plan to ambush us, 243;
+  meet us, 253;
+  conference and agreement, 253;
+  Thompson's guide, 259
+
+Shinumo, the, 112, 149;
+  trail, 113, 145;
+  caves, 132;
+  Canyon, 184;
+  ruin on Mt. Dellenbaugh, 259
+
+Shower Bath Spring, 245
+
+Shunesburg, Powell descends Virgin River to, 248
+
+Sierra, Escalante, 43;
+  La Lal, 103;
+  Abajo, 127
+
+Simpson, Captain, 95
+
+Sinav-to-weap, 117
+
+Sister Emma, 211
+
+Sister Louisa, 174
+
+Smithsonian Institution, Powell reported through, vi.
+
+Snowblind, 266
+
+Soap Creek, 159;
+  Frank M. Brown, drowned near mouth of, 159, 217;
+  Rapid, 217
+
+"Sockdologer, of the World," 222;
+  rapid, 226
+
+Songs of the camp, 73, 74
+
+Sorghum molasses, 172
+
+Spanish Fork, 266
+
+Spanish Trail, Old, 95
+
+Split Mountain Canyon, 57;
+  enter it, 58;
+  end of, 60;
+  length of, 60
+
+Springs in river bottom, 103
+
+Stanton, R. B., proves the White story incorrect, v.;
+  completed Brown expedition, ix.;
+  Canyon Railway project, x
+
+Steward, John F., place in boat, 11;
+  duty of, 11;
+  on a raft, 16;
+  discovers gigantic fossil, 20;
+  determines nature of Unknown Mts., 136;
+  ill, 146;
+  recovers, 152;
+  leaves party, 160
+
+Stewart, Bishop, of Kanab, 167;
+  saw-mill of, on Kaibab, 181
+
+Stewart, John, goes with Powell to Grand Canyon, 172;
+  returns with news of gold find, 174
+
+Stillwater Canyon, beginning of, 110;
+  nature of walls, 111, 113;
+  house ruins in, 112;
+  width, 113;
+  end of, 113;
+  length, 114
+
+Summit Valley, 164
+
+Sumner Amphitheatre, 79
+
+Sumner, Jack, 7
+
+Supplies, nature of, 4;
+  to be brought in at three places, 7
+
+Surprise Valley, 241
+
+Swallow Canyon, 31
+
+Swallow Park, 197
+
+
+T
+
+Table Mountain, 198
+
+Tapeats Creek, 240
+
+Tavaputs Plateau, 80
+
+Teemaroomtekai, Uinkaret chief, 253
+
+Teram Picavu, 254
+
+Thompson, Professor Alvin Harris, vi., vii., ix., 7;
+  place in boat, 11;
+  duty of, 11;
+  first white man to explore Shewits country, 254;
+  to climb Mt. Dellenbaugh, 259;
+  buried at Arlington, 267
+
+Thompson, Mrs. Ellen Powell, 7, 165, 166, 172, 181, 195, 216, 259
+
+Tiravu Picavu, 254
+
+Tirtaan Aigles, slogan, 75, 267
+
+Tokerville, Mormon settlement, 190
+
+Tom, Pai Ute guide, 197;
+  leaves party, 199
+
+Toroweap Valley, 192
+
+Trachyte Creek, 208
+
+Trail up cliffs of Paria, 155
+
+_Tribune_, Chicago, letters to, from Clement Powell, v.
+
+Trin Alcove, 107
+
+Triplet Falls, 43
+
+Trumbull, Mt., why so called, 186;
+  climbed, 187, 192;
+  height of, 187
+
+Trumbull, Senator, 186
+
+Tuba, a Moki (Hopi), goes home with Jacob, 169;
+  ceremony on crossing Colorado River, 169
+
+
+U
+
+Uinkaret, Indians, 186;
+  region, 186;
+  plateau, 190;
+  chief, 253
+
+Uinta, Indian Agency, 7, 8, 71
+
+Uinta Mountains, 1;
+  first view of from river, 15
+
+Uinta River, pass mouth of, 76;
+  arrival at, 66;
+  Powell goes ahead to, 56;
+  mouth astronomically determined, 95
+
+Uinta Utes, 61
+
+Undine Springs, 103
+
+Union Pacific Railway, crossing of Green River, 3;
+  _see_ Descent _and_ Distance
+
+Unknown country, the, 95, 96, 199, 200, 201, 202
+
+Unknown Mountains (Henry Mts.) viii., 104, 127, 133;
+  Steward determines nature of, 136;
+  position of Dirty Devil (Frémont) River with reference to, 199;
+  arrive at, 207;
+  map of, 207
+
+Untokarowits, Pai Ute name for F. S. Dellenbaugh, 250
+
+Utah Southern Railway finished to Lehi, 262
+
+Utah, from, into Colorado, 31
+
+Utes of Wonsits Valley, Uinta and White River, 61
+
+Ute Crossing of Colorado in Uinkaret region, 188
+
+Ute Ford, the (El Vado de los Padres), 148
+
+Ute law as applied to capture, 71
+
+
+V
+
+Van Buren, Gentile settler on the Sevier, 266
+
+Vasey's Paradise, 219
+
+Vermilion Cliffs, 158, 164;
+  length of, 164
+
+Vermilion River, 31
+
+Virgin Mountains, 194
+
+Virgin River, canyon of, explored down to Shunesburg, 248;
+  Little Zion or Mookoontoweap Valley of, 190
+
+Volunteers march from Salt Lake to Denver, 68
+
+Voyage, Canyon, the end of, 242
+
+
+W
+
+Walcott, Professor, vii.
+
+Walker House, Salt Lake City, 267
+
+Wasatch Cliffs, 200
+
+Wheeler, Lieut. George M., goes up Colorado to Diamond Creek, 145
+
+Whirlpool Canyon, 53;
+  end of, 55;
+  descent in, 56
+
+Whirlpools described, 239
+
+Whiskey not taken, 6
+
+White, James, 2;
+  story of his trip through canyons disproved, v.
+
+White River, 66;
+  journey down, 69;
+  pass mouth, 76
+
+White River Utes, 61
+
+Whitmore, Dr., killed by Navajos, 169;
+  ranch, 188
+
+Wild Band Pocket, 251
+
+Winnie's Grotto, 35
+
+Winsor, of Pipe Spring, 185;
+  Castle, 185
+
+Winter quarters, 1872-73, 260
+
+Witch Water-pocket (Innupin Picavu), 251
+
+Wolfskill, William, pioneer, 94
+
+Wolves, 161, 162, 165
+
+Wonsits Tiravu, 254
+
+Wonsits Valley, 60
+
+Woonoopits, _see_ Oonupits
+
+Workman's Ranch, 190
+
+Wreckage found in Lodore, 41
+
+Wyoming, from, into Utah, 16
+
+
+Y
+
+Yampa River, 48, 49;
+  Powell on it in 1868, 50;
+  goes up, in boat, 50
+
+Young, Brigham, 170, 185;
+  Alfred, 187
+
+
+-----------------------------------------------------------------
+|  Transcriber's Notes:                                         |
+|                                                               |
+|  The original contained inconsistencies in spelling and       |
+|  hypenation.  The following variations were retained:         |
+|                                                               |
+|          air-line        airline                              |
+|          arm-chair       armchair                             |
+|          arrow-heads     arrowheads                           |
+|          ball-room       ballroom                             |
+|          bow-knot        bowknot                              |
+|          near-by         nearby                               |
+|          row-lock        rowlock                              |
+|          sand-bank       sandbank                             |
+|          school-house    schoolhouse                          |
+|          ship-shape      shipshape                            |
+|          south-westerly  southwesterly                        |
+|          up-stream       upstream                             |
+|          Clarkson        Clarkston                            |
+|          Frémont         Fremont                              |
+|          Konéco          Koneco                               |
+|          De Motte        DeMotte                              |
+|                                                               |
+|  The following typographical errors in the original were      |
+|  corrected:                                                   |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg  62:  "eaving" to "leaving"                           |
+|               ("leaving us hardly a rock")                    |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg 175:  "bame" to "came"                                |
+|               ("came to the edge")                            |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg 198:  added "of"                                      |
+|               ("like the roof of a house")                    |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg 220: "bat-battened" to "battened"                     |
+|               ("hatches firmly battened")                     |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg 229: "dashig" to "dashing"                            |
+|               ("water was dashing")                           |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg 250: "prononnced" to "pronounced"                     |
+|               ("in their language pronounced")                |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg 273: "Canyon" to "Kanab Canyon"                       |
+|              ("Kanab Canyon, Journey up")                     |
+|                                                               |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's A Canyon Voyage, by Frederick S. Dellenbaugh
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Canyon Voyage, by Frederick S. Dellenbaugh
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Canyon Voyage
+       The Narrative of the Second Powell Expedition down the
+       Green-Colorado River from Wyoming, and the Explorations
+       on Land, in the Years 1871 and 1872
+
+Author: Frederick S. Dellenbaugh
+
+Release Date: February 25, 2007 [EBook #20667]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A CANYON VOYAGE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Audrey Longhurst and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+By F. S. DELLENBAUGH
+
+
+The North-Americans of Yesterday
+
+     A Comparative Study of North-American Indian Life, Customs,
+     and Products, on the Theory of the Ethnic Unity of the Race.
+     8º. Fully illustrated. net, $4.00
+
+
+The Romance of the Colorado River
+
+     A Complete Account of the Discovery and of the Explorations
+     from 1540 to the Present Time, with Particular Reference to
+     the Two Voyages of Powell through the Line of the Great
+     Canyons.
+
+     8º. Fully illustrated. net, $3.50
+
+
+Breaking the Wilderness
+
+     The Story of the Conquest of the Far West, from the Wanderings
+     of Cabeza de Vaca to the First Descent of the Colorado by
+     Powell, and the Completion of the Union Pacific Railway, with
+     Particular Account of the Exploits of Trappers and Traders.
+
+     8º. Fully illustrated. net, $3.50
+
+
+A Canyon Voyage
+
+     The Narrative of the Second Powell Expedition down the
+     Green-Colorado River from Wyoming, and the Explorations on
+     Land in the Years 1871 and 1872.
+
+     8º. Fully illustrated. net, $3.50
+
+
+G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS
+NEW YORK     LONDON
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon
+
+Looking south from the Kaibab Plateau, North Rim, near the head of
+Bright Angel Creek, the canyon of which is seen in the foreground. The
+San Francisco Mountains are in the distance. On the South Rim to the
+right, out of the picture, is the location of the Hotel Tovar. The
+width of the canyon at the top in this region is about twelve miles,
+with a depth of near 6000 feet on the north side, and over 5000 on the
+south. Total length, including Marble Canyon division, 283 miles.
+
+Sketch made in colour on the spot by F. S. Dellenbaugh, June 4, 1903.]
+
+
+
+
+                         A Canyon Voyage
+
+The Narrative of the Second Powell Expedition down the Green-Colorado
+          River from Wyoming, and the Explorations on
+                Land, in the Years 1871 and 1872
+
+
+                               By
+
+                   Frederick S. Dellenbaugh
+       Artist and Assistant Topographer of the Expedition
+
+
+   "Come on, sir; here's the place. Stand still. How fearful
+   And dizzy 't is to cast one's eyes so low!"
+       _King Lear._
+
+
+                   With Fifty Illustrations
+
+
+                    G. P. Putnam's Sons
+                    New York and London
+                    The Knickerbocker Press
+                    1908
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1908
+by
+FREDERICK S. DELLENBAUGH
+
+
+The Knickerbocker Press, New York
+
+
+
+
+TO
+H. O. D.
+MY COMPANION
+ON THE
+VOYAGE OF LIFE.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+This volume presents the narrative, from my point of view, of an
+important government expedition of nearly forty years ago: an expedition
+which, strangely enough, never before has been fully treated. In fact in
+all these years it never has been written about by any one besides
+myself, barring a few letters in 1871 from Clement Powell, through his
+brother, to the Chicago _Tribune_, and an extremely brief mention by
+Major Powell, its organiser and leader, in a pamphlet entitled _Report
+of Explorations in 1873 of the Colorado of the West and its
+Tributaries_ (Government Printing Office, 1874). In my history, _The
+Romance of the Colorado River_, of which this is practically volume two,
+I gave a synopsis, and in several other places I have written in
+condensed form concerning it; but the present work for the first time
+gives the full story.
+
+In 1869, Major Powell made his famous first descent of the
+Green-Colorado River from the Union Pacific Railway in Wyoming to the
+mouth of the Virgin River in Nevada, a feat of exploration unsurpassed,
+perhaps unequalled, on this continent. Several of the upper canyons had
+been before penetrated, but a vague mystery hung over even these, and
+there was no recorded, or even oral, knowledge on the subject when
+Powell turned his attention to it. There was a tale that a man named
+James White had previously descended through the great canyons, but Mr.
+Robert Brewster Stanton has thoroughly investigated this and definitely
+proven it to be incorrect. Powell's first expedition was designed as an
+exploration to cover ten months, part of which was to be in winter
+quarters; circumstances reduced the time to three. It was also more or
+less of a private venture with which the Government of the United States
+had nothing to do. It became necessary to supplement it then by a second
+expedition, herein described, which Congress supported, with, of course,
+Major Powell in charge, and nominally under the direction of the
+Smithsonian Institution, of which Professor Henry was then Secretary and
+Professor Baird his able coadjutor, the latter taking the deeper
+interest in this venture. Powell reported through the Smithsonian; that
+was about all there was in the way of control.
+
+The material collected by this expedition was utilised in preparing the
+well-known report by Major Powell, _Exploration of the Colorado River of
+the West, 1869-1872_, the second party having continued the work
+inaugurated by the first and enlarged upon it, but receiving no credit
+in that or any other government publication.
+
+As pointed out in the text of this work, a vast portion of the basin of
+the Colorado was a complete blank on the maps until our party
+accomplished its end; even some of the most general features were before
+that not understood. No canyon above the Virgin had been recorded
+topographically, and the physiography was unknown. The record of the
+first expedition is one of heroic daring, and it demonstrated that the
+river could be descended throughout in boats, but unforeseen obstacles
+prevented the acquisition of scientific data which ours was specially
+planned to secure in the light of the former developments. The map, the
+hypsometric and hydrographic data, the geologic sections and geologic
+data, the photographs, ethnography, and indeed about all the first
+information concerning the drainage area in question were the results of
+the labours of the second expedition. Owing, perhaps, to Major Powell's
+considering our work merely in the line of routine survey, no special
+record, as mentioned above, was ever made of the second expedition. We
+inherited from the first a plat of the river itself down to the mouth of
+the Paria, which, according to Professor Thompson, was fairly good, but
+we did not rely on it; from the mouth of the Paria to Catastrophe Rapid,
+the point below Diamond Creek where the Howlands and Dunn separated from
+the boat party, a plat that was broken in places. This was approximately
+correct as far as Kanab Canyon, though not so good as above the Paria.
+From the Kanab Canyon, where we ended our work with the boats, to the
+mouth of the Virgin we received fragments of the course owing to the
+mistake made in dividing the notes at the time of the separation; a
+division decided on because each group thought the other doomed to
+destruction. Thus Howland took out with him parts of both copies which
+were destroyed by the Shewits when they killed the men. After Howland's
+departure, the Major ran in the course to the mouth of the Virgin.
+Professor Thompson was confident that our plat of the course, which is
+the basis of all maps to-day, is accurate from the Union Pacific Railway
+in Wyoming to Catastrophe Rapid, for though we left the river at the
+Kanab Canyon, we were able by our previous and subsequent work on land
+to verify the data of the first party and to fill in the blanks, but he
+felt ready to accept corrections below Catastrophe Rapid to the Virgin.
+
+For a list of the canyons, height of walls, etc., I must refer to the
+appendix in my previous volume. While two names cover the canyon from
+the Paria to the Grand Wash, the gorge is practically one with a total
+length of 283 miles. I have not tried to give geological data for these
+are easily obtainable in the reports of Powell, Dutton, Gilbert,
+Walcott, and others, and I lacked space to introduce them properly. In
+fact I have endeavored to avoid a mere perfunctory record, full of data
+well stated elsewhere. While trying to give our daily experiences and
+actual camp life in a readable way, I have adhered to accuracy of
+statement. I believe that any one who wishes to do so can use this book
+as a guide for navigating the river as far as Kanab Canyon. I have not
+relied on memory but have kept for continual reference at my elbow not
+only my own careful diary of the journey, but also the manuscript diary
+of Professor Thompson, and a typewritten copy of the diary of John F.
+Steward as far as the day of his departure from our camp. I have also
+consulted letters that I wrote home at the time and to the Buffalo
+_Express_, and a detailed draft of events up to the autumn of 1871 which
+I prepared in 1877 when all was still vividly fresh in mind. In
+addition, I possess a great many letters which Professor Thompson wrote
+me up to within a few weeks of his death (July, 1906), often in reply to
+questions I raised on various points that were not clear to me. Each
+member of the party I have called by the name familiarly used on the
+expedition, for naturally there was no "Mistering" on a trip of this
+kind. Powell was known throughout the length and breadth of the Rocky
+Mountain Region as "the Major," while Thompson was quite as widely known
+as "Prof." Some of the geographic terms, like Dirty Devil River, Unknown
+Mountains, etc., were those employed before permanent names were
+adopted. In my other books I have used the term Amerind for American
+Indian, and I intend to continue its use, but in the pages of this
+volume, being a narrative, and the word not having been used or known to
+us at that time, it did not seem exactly appropriate.
+
+Some readers may wish to provide themselves with full maps of the course
+of the river, and I will state that the U. S. Geological Survey has
+published map-sheets each 20 by 16-1/2 inches, of the whole course of
+the Green-Colorado. These sheets are sent to any person desiring them
+who remits the price, five cents the sheet, by post-office money order
+addressed: "Director U. S. Geological Survey, Washington, D. C.," with
+the names of the sheets wanted. The names of the seventeen sheets
+covering the canyoned part are: Green River(?), Ashley, Yampa,(?) Price
+River, East Tavaputs, San Rafael, La Sal, Henry Mountains, Escalante,
+Echo Cliffs, San Francisco Mountains, Kaibab, Mount Trumbull, Chino,
+Diamond Creek, St. Thomas, and Camp Mohave.
+
+Several parties have tried the descent through the canyons since our
+voyage. Some have been successful, some sadly disastrous. The river is
+always a new problem in its details, though the general conditions
+remain the same.
+
+Major Powell was a man of prompt decision, with a cool, comprehensive,
+far-reaching mind. He was genial, kind, never despondent, always
+resolute, resourceful, masterful, determined to overcome every obstacle.
+To him alone belongs the credit for solving the problem of the great
+canyons, and to Professor Thompson that for conducting most successfully
+the geographic side of the work under difficulties that can hardly be
+appreciated in these days when survey work is an accepted item of
+government expenditure and Congress treats it with an open hand.
+
+I am indebted to Mr. Robert Brewster Stanton, who completed the Brown
+Expedition triumphantly, for valuable information and photographs and
+for many interesting conversations comparing his experiences with ours;
+to the Geological Survey for maps and for the privilege of using
+photographs from negatives in the possession of the Survey; and to Mr.
+John K. Hillers for making most of the prints used in illustrating this
+book. My thanks are due to Brigadier-General Mackenzie, U. S. Engineers,
+for copies of rare early maps of the region embraced in our operations,
+now nearly impossible to obtain.
+
+In 1902 when I informed Major Powell that I was preparing my history of
+the Colorado River, he said he hoped that I would put on record the
+second trip and the men who were members of that expedition, which I
+accordingly did. He never ceased to take a lively interest in my
+affairs, and the year before he wrote me: "I always delight in your
+successes and your prosperity, and I ever cherish the memory of those
+days when we were on the great river together." Professor Thompson only
+a month before he died sent me a letter in which he said: "You are heir
+to all the Colorado material and I am getting what I have together."
+These sentiments cause me to feel like an authorised and rightful
+historian of the expedition with which I was so intimately connected,
+and I sincerely hope that I have performed my task in a way that would
+meet the approval of my old leader and his colleague, as well as of my
+other comrades. One learns microscopically the inner nature of his
+companions on a trip of this kind, and I am happy to avow that a finer
+set of men could not have been selected for the trying work which they
+accomplished with unremitting good-nature and devotion, without
+pecuniary reward. Professor Thompson possessed invaluable qualities for
+this expedition: rare balance of mind, great cheerfulness, and a sunny
+way of looking on difficulties and obstacles as if they were mere
+problems in chess. His foresight and resourcefulness were phenomenal,
+and no threatening situation found him without some good remedy.
+
+Some of the illustrations in Powell's _Report_ are misleading, and I
+feel it my duty to specially note three of them. The one opposite page 8
+shows boats of the type we used on the second voyage with a middle
+cabin. The boats of the first expedition had cabins only at the bow and
+stern. The picture of the wreck at Disaster Falls, opposite page 27, is
+nothing like the place, and the one opposite page 82 gives boats in
+impossible positions, steered by rudders. A rudder is useless on such a
+river. Long steering sweeps were used.
+
+Time's changes have come to pass. You may now go by a luxurious Santa Fe
+train direct to the south rim of the greatest chasm of the series, the
+Grand Canyon, and stop there in a beautiful hotel surrounded by every
+comfort, yet when we were making the first map no railway short of
+Denver existed and there was but one line across the Rocky Mountains.
+Perhaps before many more years are gone we will see Mr. Stanton's
+Denver, Colorado Canyon, and Pacific Railway accomplished through the
+canyons, and if I then have not "crossed to Killiloo" I will surely
+claim a free pass over the entire length in defiance of all
+commerce-regulating laws.
+
+Frederick S. Dellenbaugh.
+Cragsmoor,
+August, 1908
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+     A River Entrapped--Acquaintance not Desired--Ives Explores the
+     Lower Reaches--Powell the Conqueror--Reason for a Second
+     Descent--Congressional Appropriation--Preparation--The Three
+     Boats--The Mighty Wilderness--Ready for the Start        1
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+     Into the Wilderness--The Order of Sailing--Tobacco for the
+     Indians Comes Handy--A Lone Fisherman and Some Trappers--Jack
+     Catches Strange Fish--The Snow-clad Uintas in View--A Larder
+     Full of Venison--Entrance into Flaming Gorge                9
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+     The First Rapid--Horseshoe and Kingfisher Canyons--A Rough
+     Entrance into Red Canyon--Capsize of the _Nell_--The Grave of
+     a Bold Navigator--Discovery of a White Man's Camp--Good-bye to
+     Frank--At the Gate of Lodore                               19
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+     Locked in the Chasm of Lodore--Rapids with Railway Speed--A
+     Treacherous Approach to Falls of Disaster--Numerous Loadings
+     and Unloadings--Over the Rocks with Cargoes--Library Increased
+     by _Putnam's Magazine_--Triplet Falls and Hell's Half
+     Mile--Fire in Camp--Exit from Turmoil to Peace             34
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+     A Remarkable Echo--Up the Canyon of the Yampa--Steward and
+     Clem Try a Moonlight Swim--Whirlpool Canyon and Mountain
+     Sheep--A Grand Fourth-of-July Dinner--A Rainbow-Coloured
+     Valley--The Major Proceeds in Advance--A Split Mountain with
+     Rapids a Plenty--Enter a Big Valley at Last                49
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+     A Lookout for Redskins--The River a Sluggard--A
+     Gunshot!--Someone Comes!--The Tale of a Mysterious Light--How,
+     How! from Douglas Boy--At the Mouth of the Uinta--A Tramp to
+     Goblin City and a Trip down White River on a Raft--A
+     Waggon-load of Supplies from Salt Lake by Way of Uinta
+     Agency--The Major Goes Out to Find a Way In                61
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+     On to Battle--A Concert Repertory--Good-bye to Douglas
+     Boy--The Busy, Busy Beaver--In the Embrace of the Rocks Once
+     More--A Relic of the Cliff-Dwellers--Low Water and Hard
+     Work--A Canyon of Desolation--Log-cabin Cliff--Rapids and
+     Rapids and Rapids--A Horse, whose Horse?--Through Gray Canyon
+     to the Rendezvous                                          72
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+     Return of the Major--Some Mormon Friends--No Rations at the
+     Elusive Dirty Devil--Captain Gunnison's Crossing--An All-night
+     Vigil for Cap. and Clem--The Land of a Thousand Cascades--A
+     Bend Like a Bow-knot and a Canyon Labyrinthian--Cleaving an
+     Unknown World--Signs of the Oldest Inhabitant--Through the
+     Canyon of Stillwater to the Jaws of the Colorado           94
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+     A Wonderland of Crags and Pinnacles--Poverty Rations--Fast and
+     Furious Plunging Waters--Boulders Boom along the
+     Bottom--Chilly Days and Shivering--A Wild Tumultuous Chasm--A
+     Bad Passage by Twilight and a Tornado With a Picture
+     Moonrise--Out of One Canyon into Another--At the Mouth of the
+     Dirty Devil at Last                                       115
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+     The _Canonita_ Left Behind--Shinumo Ruins--Troublesome Ledges
+     in the River--Alcoves and Amphitheatres--The Mouth of the San
+     Juan--Starvation Days and a Lookout for Rations--El Vado de
+     Los Padres--White Men Again--Given up for Lost--Navajo
+     Visitors--Peaks with a Great Echo--At the Mouth of the Paria
+                                                               135
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+     More Navajos Arrive with Old Jacob--The Lost Pack-train and a
+     Famished Guide--From Boat to Broncho--On to Kanab--Winter
+     Arrives--Wolf Neighbours too Intimate--Preparing for Geodetic
+     Work--Over the Kaibab to Eight-mile Spring--A Frontier
+     Town--Camp below Kanab--A Mormon Christmas Dance          152
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+     Reconnoitring and Triangulating--A Pai Ute New Year's
+     Dance--The Major Goes to Salt Lake--Snowy Days on the
+     Kaibab--At Pipe Spring--Gold Hunters to the Colorado--Visits
+     to the Uinkaret County--Craters and Lava--Finding the
+     Hurricane Ledge--An Interview with a Cougar--Back to Kanab
+                                                               174
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+     Off for the Unknown Country--A Lonely Grave--Climbing a
+     Hog-back to a Green Grassy Valley--Surprising a Ute
+     Camp--Towich-a-tick-a-boo--Following a Blind Trail--The
+     Unknown Mountains Become Known--Down a Deep Canyon--To the
+     Paria with the _Canonita_--John D. Lee and Lonely Dell    195
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+     A Company of Seven--The _Nellie Powell_ Abandoned--Into Marble
+     Canyon--Vasey's Paradise--A Furious Descent to the Little
+     Colorado--A Mighty Fall in the Dismal Granite Gorge--Caught in
+     a Trap--Upside Down--A Deep Plunge and a Predicament--At the
+     Mouth of the Kanab                                        215
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+     A New Departure--Farewell to the Boats--Out to the World
+     Through Kanab Canyon--A Midnight Ride--At the Innupin
+     Picavu--Prof. Reconnoitres the Shewits Country--Winter
+     Quarters in Kanab--Making the Preliminary Map--Another New
+     Year--Across a High Divide in a Snow-storm--Down the Sevier in
+     Winter--The Last Summons                                  242
+
+
+Index                                                          269
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+                                                          FACING
+                                                            PAGE
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                    _Frontispiece_
+
+     Looking south from the Kaibab Plateau, North Rim, near the
+     head of Bright Angel Creek, the canyon of which is seen in the
+     foreground. The San Francisco Mountains are in the distance.
+     On the South Rim to the right, out of the picture, is the
+     location of the Hotel Tovar. The width of the canyon at top in
+     this region is about twelve miles, with a depth of near 6000
+     feet on the north side, and over 5000 on the south. Total
+     length, including Marble Canyon division, 283 miles.
+
+     Sketch made in colour on the spot by F. S. Dellenbaugh, June
+     4, 1903.
+
+
+The Toll                                                         1
+
+     Unidentified skeleton found April, 1906, by C. C. Spaulding in
+     the Grand Canyon 300 feet above the river, some miles below
+     Bright Angel trail. There were daily papers in the pocket of
+     the clothes of the early spring of 1900.
+
+     Photograph by Kolb Bros. 1906, Grand Canyon, Arizona.
+
+
+Red Canyon                                                       6
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Before the Start at Green River City, Wyoming                    9
+
+     The dark box open. Andy, Clem, Beaman, Prof. Steward, Cap.,
+     Frank, Jones, Jack, the Major, Fred, _Canonita_, _Emma Dean_,
+     _Nellie Powell_.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Flaming Gorge                                                   17
+
+     The beginning of the Colorado River Canyons, N. E. Utah.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Horseshoe Canyon                                                21
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Red Canyon                                                      25
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Red Canyon                                                      28
+
+     Ashley Falls from below.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+In Red Canyon Park                                              29
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+The Head of the Canyon of Lodore                                34
+
+     Just inside the gate.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Canyon of Lodore                                                37
+
+     Low water.
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1874.
+
+
+The Heart of Lodore                                             40
+
+     F. S. Dellenbaugh.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Canyon of Lodore--Dunn's Cliff                                  43
+
+     2800 feet above river.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Canyon of Lodore                                                44
+
+     Jones, Hillers, Dellenbaugh.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Echo Park                                                       49
+
+     Mouth of Yampa River in foreground, Green River on right.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Whirlpool Canyon                                                54
+
+     Mouth of Bishop Creek--Fourth of July camp.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Split Mountain Canyon                                           59
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Canyon of Desolation                                            81
+
+     Steward.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Colorado River White Salmon                                     98
+
+     Photograph by the Denver, Colorado Canyon and Pacific Railway
+     Survey under Robert Brewster Stanton, 1889.
+
+
+Dellenbaugh Butte                                              102
+
+     Near mouth of San Rafael.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Labyrinth Canyon--Bowknot Bend                                 108
+
+     The great loop is behind the spectator.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Stillwater Canyon                                              110
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Cataract Canyon                                                119
+
+     Clement Powell.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Cataract Canyon                                                128
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Narrow Canyon                                                  133
+
+     Photograph by Best Expedition, 1891.
+
+
+Mouth of the Fremont River (Dirty Devil)                       135
+
+     Photograph by the Brown Expedition, 1889.
+
+
+Glen Canyon                                                    140
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+Looking Down Upon Glen Canyon                                  142
+
+     Cut through homogeneous sandstone.
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Colo. Riv. Exp.
+
+
+Tom                                                            147
+
+     A typical Navajo. Tom became educated and no longer looked
+     like an Indian.
+
+     Photograph by Wittick.
+
+
+Glen Canyon                                                    149
+
+     Sentinel Rock--about 300 feet high.
+
+     Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               162
+
+     From Havasupai Point, South Rim, showing Inner Gorge.
+
+     From a sketch in colour by F. S. Dellenbaugh, 1907.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               168
+
+     From South Rim near Bright Angel Creek.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               174
+
+     From part way down south side above Bright Angel Creek.
+
+
+Winsor Castle, the Defensive House at Pipe Springs             186
+
+     Photograph by H. Arthur Pomroy, 1903.
+
+
+Little Zion Valley, or the Mookoontoweap, Upper Virgin River   186
+
+     Photograph by H. Arthur Pomroy, 1903.
+
+
+In the Unknown Country                                         195
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.
+
+
+Navajo Mountain From Near Kaiparowits Peak                     201
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.
+
+
+Tantalus Creek                                                 206
+
+     Tributary of Fremont River.
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers.
+
+
+Example of Lakes on the Aquarius Plateau                       211
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               215
+
+     Near mouth of Shinumo Creek. The river is in flood and the
+     water is "colorado."
+
+     Sketch made in colour on the spot by F. S. Dellenbaugh, July
+     26, 1907.
+
+
+Marble Canyon                                                  219
+
+     Thompson.
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.
+
+
+Canyon of the Little Colorado                                  222
+
+     Photograph by C. Barthelmess.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               224
+
+     From just below the Little Colorado.
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               227
+
+     Running the Sockdologer.
+
+     From a sketch afterwards by F. S. Dellenbaugh.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               232
+
+     From top of Granite, south side near Bright Angel Creek.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               238
+
+     Character of river in rapids.
+
+     Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh, 1907.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               242
+
+     At a rapid--low water.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               248
+
+     At the bottom near foot of Bass Trail.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               254
+
+     From north side near foot of Toroweap Valley, Uinkaret
+     District.
+
+     Photograph by J. K. Hillers.
+
+
+The Grand Canyon                                               258
+
+     Storm effect from South Rim.
+
+
+
+
+MAPS
+
+
+A.
+     Map by the U. S. War Department, 1868. Supplied by the
+     courtesy of General Mackenzie, U. S. A., showing the knowledge
+     of the Colorado River basin just before Major Powell began
+     operations. The topography above the junction of the Green and
+     Grand is largely pictorial and approximate. The white space
+     from the San Rafael to the mouth of the Virgin is the unknown
+     country referred to in this volume which was investigated in
+     1871-72-73. Preliminary maps B, C, and D at pages 244-46, and
+     207 respectively, partly give the results of the work which
+     filled in this area.                                       95
+
+B.
+     Preliminary map of a portion of the southern part of the
+     unknown country indicated by blank space on Map A, at page 95,
+     showing the Hurricane Ledge, Uinkaret and Shewits Mountains
+     and the course of the Grand Canyon from the mouth of Kanab
+     Canyon to the Grand Wash. The Howlands and Dunn left the first
+     expedition at Catastrophe Rapid at the sharp bend a few miles
+     below the intersection of the river and longitude 113 deg. 30',
+     climbed out to the north and were killed near Mt. Dellenbaugh.
+                                                               244
+
+C.
+     Preliminary map of a portion of the central part of the
+     unknown country indicated by the blank space on Map A, at page
+     95, showing the Kaibab Plateau, mouth of the Paria, Echo
+     Peaks, House Rock Valley and the course of part of Glen Canyon
+     and of Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon to the mouth of the
+     Kanab Canyon. El Vado is at the western intersection of the
+     37th parallel and the Colorado River, and Kanab is in the
+     upper left-hand corner of the map--just above the 37th
+     parallel which is the boundary between Utah and Arizona. The
+     words "Old Spanish Trail from Santa Fe to Los Angeles" near El
+     Vado were added in Washington and are incorrect. The old
+     Spanish trail crossed at Gunnison Crossing far north of this
+     point which was barely known before 1858.                 246
+
+D.
+     Preliminary map of a portion of the northern part of the
+     unknown country indicated by the blank space on Map A, at page
+     95, showing the course of part of Glen Canyon, the mouth of
+     the Fremont (Dirty Devil) River, the Henry (Unknown)
+     Mountains, and the trail of the first known party of white men
+     to cross this area. The Escalante River which was mistaken for
+     the Dirty Devil enters the Colorado just above the first
+     letter "o" of Colorado at the bottom of the map. The Dirty
+     Devil enters from the north at the upper right-hand side.
+                                                               207
+
+E.
+     Showing results of recent re-survey of part of the Grand
+     Canyon near Bright Angel Creek by the Geological Survey with
+     ample time for detail. Compare with Map C at page 246--the
+     south end of Kaibab Plateau.                              250
+
+
+
+
+A CANYON VOYAGE
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+     A River Entrapped--Acquaintance not Desired--Ives Explores the
+     Lower Reaches--Powell the Conqueror--Reason for a Second
+     Descent--Congressional Appropriation--Preparation--The Three
+     Boats--The Mighty Wilderness--Ready for the Start.
+
+
+The upper continuation of the Colorado River of the West is Green River
+which heads in the Wind River Mountains at Fremont Peak. From this range
+southward to the Uinta Mountains, on the southern boundary of Wyoming,
+the river flows through an open country celebrated in the early days of
+Western exploration and fur trading as "Green River Valley," and at that
+period the meeting ground and "rendezvous" of the various companies and
+organisations, and of free trappers. By the year 1840 the vast region
+west of the Missouri had been completely investigated by the trappers
+and fur-hunters in the pursuit of trade, with the exception of the
+Green-and-Colorado River from the foot of Green River Valley to the
+termination of the now famous Grand Canyon of Arizona. The reason for
+this exception was that at the southern extremity of Green River Valley
+the solid obstacle of the Uinta Range was thrown in an easterly and
+westerly trend directly across the course of the river, which, finding
+no alternative, had carved its way, in the course of a long geological
+epoch, through the foundations of the mountains in a series of gorges
+with extremely precipitous sides; continuous parallel cliffs between
+whose forbidding precipices dashed the torrent towards the sea. Having
+thus entrapped itself, the turbulent stream, by the configuration of the
+succeeding region, was forced to continue its assault on the rocks, to
+reach the Gulf, and ground its fierce progress through canyon after
+canyon, with scarcely an intermission of open country, for a full
+thousand miles from the beginning of its entombment, the entrance of
+Flaming Gorge, at the foot of the historical Green River Valley. Some
+few attempts had been made to fathom the mystery of this long series of
+chasms, but with such small success that the exploration of the river
+was given up as too difficult and too dangerous. Ashley had gone through
+Red Canyon in 1825 and in one of the succeeding winters of that period a
+party had passed through Lodore on the ice. These trips proved that the
+canyons were not the haunt of beaver, that the navigation of them was
+vastly difficult, and that no man could tell what might befall in those
+gorges further down, that were deeper, longer, and still more remote
+from any touch with the outer world. Indeed it was even reported that
+there were places where the whole river disappeared underground. The
+Indians, as a rule, kept away from the canyons, for there was little to
+attract them. One bold Ute who attempted to shorten his trail by means
+of the river, shortened it to the Happy Hunting Grounds immediately, and
+there was nothing in his fate to inspire emulation.
+
+The years then wore on and the Colorado remained unknown through its
+canyon division. Ives had come up to near the mouth of the Virgin from
+the Gulf of California in 1858, and the portion above Flaming Gorge,
+from the foot of Green River Valley, was fairly well known, with the
+Union Pacific Railway finally bridging it in Wyoming. One James White
+was picked up (1867) at a point below the mouth of the Virgin in an
+exhausted state, and it was assumed that he had made a large part of the
+terrible voyage on a raft, but this was not the case, and the Colorado
+River Canyons still waited for a conqueror. He came in 1869 in the
+person of John Wesley Powell, a late Major[1] in the Civil War, whose
+scientific studies had led him to the then territory of Colorado where
+his mind became fired with the intention of exploring the canyons. The
+idea was carried out, and the river was descended from the Union Pacific
+Railway crossing to the mouth of the Virgin, and two of the men went on
+to the sea. Thus the great feat was accomplished--one of the greatest
+feats of exploration ever executed on this continent.[2]
+
+[Illustration: The Toll.
+
+Unidentified skeleton found April 1906 by C. C. Spaulding in the Grand
+Canyon 300 feet above the river, some miles below Bright Angel trail.
+There were daily papers of the early spring of 1900 in the pocket of the
+clothes. Photograph 1906 by Kolb Bros.]
+
+Circumstances had rendered the data collected both insufficient and
+incomplete. A second expedition was projected to supply deficiencies and
+to extend the work; an expedition so well equipped and planned that time
+could be taken for the purely scientific side of the venture. This
+expedition was the first one under the government, the former expedition
+having been a more or less private enterprise. Congress made
+appropriations and the party were to start in 1870. This was found to be
+inexpedient for several reasons, among which was the necessity of
+exploring a route by which rations could be brought in to them at the
+mouth of what we called Dirty Devil River--a euphonious title applied by
+the men of the first expedition. This stream entered the Colorado at the
+foot of what is now known as Narrow Canyon, a little below the 38th
+parallel,--the Fremont River of the present geographies. Arrangements
+for supplies to be brought in to the second expedition at this place
+were made by the Major during a special visit to southern Utah for the
+purpose.
+
+By great good fortune I became a member of the second expedition. Scores
+of men were turned away, disappointed. The party was a small one, and it
+was full. We were to begin our voyage through the chain of great
+canyons, at the same point where the first expedition started, the point
+where the recently completed Union Pacific Railway crossed Green River
+in Wyoming, and we arrived there from the East early on the morning of
+April 29, 1871. We were all ravenous after the long night on the train
+and breakfast was the first consideration, but when this had
+re-established our energy we went to look for the flat car with our
+boats which had been sent ahead from Chicago. The car was soon found on
+a siding and with the help of some railroad employes we pushed it along
+to the eastern end of the bridge over Green River and there, on the
+down side, put the boats into the waters against whose onslaughts they
+were to be our salvation. It was lucky perhaps that we did not pause to
+ponder on the importance of these little craft; on how much depended on
+their staunchness and stability; and on our possible success in
+preventing their destruction. The river was high from melting snows and
+the current was swift though ordinarily it is not a large river at this
+point. This season had been selected for the start because of the high
+water, which would tide us over the rocks till tributary streams should
+swell the normal volume; for our boats were to be well loaded, there
+being no chance to get supplies after leaving. We had some trouble in
+making a landing where we wanted to, in a little cove on the east side
+about half a mile down, which had been selected as a good place for our
+preparatory operations. Here the three boats were hauled out to receive
+the final touches. They were named _Emma Dean_, _Nellie Powell_, and
+_Canonita_. A space was cleared in the thick willows for our general
+camp over which Andy was to be master of ceremonies, at least so far as
+the banqueting division was concerned, and here he became initiated into
+the chemistry necessary to transform raw materials into comparatively
+edible food. But it was not so hard a task, for our supplies were flour,
+beans, bacon, dried apples, and dried peaches, tea and coffee, with, of
+course, plenty of sugar. Canned goods at that time were not common, and
+besides, would have been too heavy. Bread must be baked three times a
+day in the Dutch oven, a sort of skillet of cast iron, about three
+inches deep, ten or twelve inches in diameter, with short legs, and a
+cast-iron cover with a turned-up rim that would hold hot coals. We had
+no other bread than was made in this oven, or in a frying-pan, with
+saleratus and cream of tartar to raise it. It was Andy's first
+experience as a cook, though he had been a soldier in the Civil War, as
+had almost every member of the party except the youngest three, Clem,
+Frank, and myself, I being the youngest of all.
+
+For sleeping quarters we were disposed in two vacant wooden shanties
+about two hundred yards apart and a somewhat greater distance from the
+cook-camp. These shanties were mansions left over, like a group of
+roofless adobe ruins near by, from the opulent days of a year or two
+back when this place had been the terminus of the line during building
+operations. Little remained of its whilom grandeur; a section house, a
+railway station, a number of canvas-roofed domiciles, Field's
+"Outfitting Store," and the aforesaid shanties in which we secured
+refuge, being about all there was of the place. The region round about
+suggested the strangeness of the wild country below, through the midst
+of which led our trail. Arid and gravelly hills met the eye on all
+sides, accentuated by huge buttes and cliffs of brilliant colours,
+which in their turn were intensified by a clear sky of deep azure. In
+the midst of our operations, we found time to note the passing of the
+single express train each way daily. These trains seemed very friendly
+and the passengers gazed wonderingly from the windows at us and waved
+handkerchiefs. They perceived what we were about by the sign which I
+painted on cloth and fastened across the front of our house, which was
+near the track: "Powell's Colorado River Exploring Expedition." Above
+this was flying our general flag, the Stars and Stripes.
+
+The white boats were thoroughly gone over with caulking-iron and paint.
+Upon the decks of the cabins, canvas, painted green, was stretched in
+such a way that it could be unbuttoned at the edges on three sides and
+thrown back when we wanted to take off the hatches. When in place this
+canvas kept the water, perfectly, out of the hatch joints. Each boat had
+three compartments, the middle one being about four feet long, about
+one-fifth the length of the boat, which was twenty-two feet over the
+top. Two places were left for the rowers, before and abaft the middle
+compartment, while the steersman with his long oar thrust behind was to
+sit on the deck of the after-cabin, all the decks being flush with the
+gunwale, except that of the forward cabin the deck of which was carried
+back in a straighter line than the sheer of the boat and thus formed a
+nose to help throw off the waves. It was believed that when the hatches
+were firmly in place and the canvases drawn taut over the decks, even if
+a boat turned over, as was expected sometimes might be the case, the
+contents of these cabins would remain intact and dry. As so much
+depended on keeping our goods dry, and as we knew from Powell's previous
+experience that the voyage would be a wet one, everything was carefully
+put in rubber sacks, each having a soft mouth inside a double lip with a
+row of eyelets in each lip through which ran a strong cord. When the
+soft mouth was rolled up and the bag squeezed, the air was forced out,
+and the lips could be drawn to a bunch by means of the cord. When in
+this condition the bag could be soaked a long time in water without
+wetting the contents. Each rubber bag was encased in a heavy cotton one
+to protect it; in short, we spared no effort to render our provisions
+proof against the destroying elements. At first we put the bacon into
+rubber, but it spoiled the rubber and then we saw that bacon can take
+care of itself, nothing can hurt it anyhow, and a gunny-sack was all
+that was necessary. Though the boats were five feet in the beam and
+about twenty-four inches in depth, their capacity was limited and the
+supplies we could take must correspond. Each man was restricted to one
+hundred pounds of baggage, including his blankets. He had one rubber bag
+for the latter and another for his clothing and personal effects. In the
+provision line we had twenty-two sacks of flour of fifty pounds each.
+There was no whiskey, so far as I ever knew, except a small flask
+containing about one gill which I had been given with a ditty-bag for
+the journey. This flask was never drawn upon and was intact till needed
+as medicine in October. Smoking was abandoned, though a case of smoking
+tobacco was taken for any Indians we might meet. Our photographic outfit
+was extremely bulky and heavy, for the dry plate had not been invented.
+We had to carry a large amount of glass and chemicals, as well as
+apparatus.
+
+The numerous scientific instruments also were bulky, as they had to be
+fitted into wooden cases that were covered with canvas and then with
+rubber. Rations in quantity were not obtainable short of Salt Lake or
+Fort Bridger, and we had Congressional authority to draw on the military
+posts for supplies. The Major and his colleague, Professor Thompson,
+went to Fort Bridger and to Salt Lake to secure what was necessary, and
+to make further arrangements for the supplies which were to be brought
+in to us at the three established points: the mouth of the Uinta, by way
+of the Uinta Indian Agency; the mouth of the Dirty Devil; and the place
+where Escalante had succeeded in crossing the Colorado in 1776, known as
+the Crossing of the Fathers, about on the line between Utah and Arizona.
+
+[Illustration: Red Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+Mrs. Thompson and Mrs. Powell, who had come out on the same train with
+us, had gone on to Salt Lake, where they were to wait for news from the
+expedition, when we should get in touch with the Uinta Agency at the
+mouth of the Uinta River, something over two hundred miles further down.
+At length all was provided for and the Major and Prof. returned to our
+camp from Salt Lake bringing a new member of the party, Jack Hillers, to
+take the place of Jack Sumner of the former party who was unable to get
+to us on account of the deep snows in the mountains which surrounded the
+retreat where he had spent the winter trapping. Prof. brought back also
+an American flag for each boat with the name of the boat embroidered in
+the field of blue on one side while the stars were on the other. We all
+admired these flags greatly, especially as they had been made by Mrs.
+Thompson's own hands.
+
+We had with us a diary which Jack Sumner had kept on the former voyage,
+and the casual way in which he repeatedly referred to running through a
+"hell of foam" gave us an inkling, if nothing more, of what was coming.
+Our careful preparations gave us a feeling of security against disaster,
+or, at least, induced us to expect some degree of liberality from
+Fortune. We had done our best to insure success and could go forward in
+some confidence. A delay was caused by the non-arrival of some extra
+heavy oars ordered from Chicago, but at length they came, and it was
+well we waited, for the lighter ones were quickly found to be too frail.
+Our preparations had taken three weeks. Considering that we were obliged
+to provide against every contingency that might occur in descending this
+torrent so completely locked in from assistance and supplies, the time
+was not too long. Below Green River City, Wyoming, where we were to
+start, there was not a single settler, nor a settlement of any kind, on
+or near the river for a distance of more than a thousand miles. From the
+river out, a hundred miles in an air line westward, across a practically
+trackless region, would be required to measure the distance to the
+nearest Mormon settlements on the Sevier, while eastward it was more
+than twice as far to the few pioneers who had crossed the Backbone of
+the Continent. The Uinta Indian Agency was the nearest establishment to
+Green River. It was forty miles west of the mouth of the Uinta. In
+southern Utah the newly formed Mormon settlement of Kanab offered the
+next haven, but no one understood exactly its relationship to the
+topography of the Colorado, except from the vicinity of the Crossing of
+the Fathers. Thus the country through which we were to pass was then a
+real wilderness, while the river itself was walled in for almost the
+entire way by more or less unscalable cliffs of great height.
+
+Finally all of our preparations were completed to the last detail. The
+cabins of the boats were packed as one packs a trunk. A wooden arm-chair
+was obtained from Field and fastened to the middle deck of our boat by
+straps, as a seat for the Major, and to the left side of it--he had no
+right arm--his rubber life-preserver was attached. Each man had a
+similar life-preserver in a convenient place, and he was to keep this
+always ready to put on when we reached particularly dangerous rapids. On
+the evening of the 21st of May nothing more remained to be done. The
+Second Powell Expedition was ready to start.
+
+[Illustration: Before the Start at Green River City, Wyoming.
+
+The dark box open. _Canonita_; Andy, Clem, Beaman. _Emma Dean_; Jones,
+Jack, the Major, Fred. _Nellie Powell_; Prof., Steward, Cap., Frank.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 1: Powell had received an appointment as Colonel before he
+left the Volunteer Service, but he was always called Major.]
+
+[Footnote 2: For the history of the Colorado River the reader is
+referred to _The Romance of the Colorado River_, by F. S. Dellenbaugh.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+     Into the Wilderness--The Order of Sailing--Tobacco for the
+     Indians Comes Handy--A Lone Fisherman and Some Trappers--Jack
+     Catches Strange Fish--The Snow-clad Uintas in View--A Larder
+     Full of Venison--Entrance into Flaming Gorge.
+
+
+The 22d of May, 1871, gave us a brilliant sun and a sky of sapphire with
+a sparkling atmosphere characteristic of the Rocky Mountain Region. The
+great buttes near the station, which Moran has since made famous, shone
+with a splendour that was inspiring. To enable us to pick up the last
+ends more easily and to make our departure in general more convenient,
+we had breakfast that morning at Field's outfitting place, and an
+excellent breakfast it was. It was further distinguished by being the
+last meal that we should eat at a table for many a month. We were
+followed to the cove, where our loaded boats were moored, by a number of
+people; about the whole population in fact, and that did not make a
+crowd. None of the Chinamen came down, and there were no Indians in town
+that day. The only unpleasant circumstance was the persistent repetition
+by a deaf-mute of a pantomimic representation of the disaster that he
+believed was to overwhelm us. "Dummy," as we called him, showed us that
+we would be upset, and, unable to scale the cliffs, would surely all be
+drowned. This picture, as vividly presented as possible, seemed to give
+him and his brother great satisfaction. We laughed at his prophecy, but
+his efforts to talk were distressing. It may be said in excuse for him,
+that in some paddling up the river from that point, he had arrived at
+perhaps an honest conviction of what would happen to any one going
+below; and also, that other wise men of the town predicted that we would
+never see "Brown's Hole," at the end of Red Canyon.
+
+At ten o'clock we pushed out into the current. There were "Good-bye and
+God-speed" from the shore with a cheer, and we responded with three and
+then we passed out of sight. The settlement, the railway, the people,
+were gone; the magnificent wilderness was ours. We swept down with a
+four-mile current between rather low banks, using the oars mainly for
+guidance, and meeting no difficulty worse than a shoal, on which the
+boats all grounded for a few moments, and the breaking of his oar by
+Jones who steered our boat. About noon having run three miles, a landing
+was made on a broad gravelly island, to enable Andy to concoct a dinner.
+A heavy gale was tearing fiercely across the bleak spot. The sand flew
+in stinging clouds, but we got a fire started and then it burned like a
+furnace. Andy made another sample of his biscuits, this time liberally
+incorporated with sand, and he fried some bacon. The sand mainly settled
+to the bottom of the frying pan, for this bacon was no fancy breakfast
+table variety but was clear fat three or four inches thick. But how good
+it was! And the grease poured on bread! And yet while at the railway I
+had scorned it; in fact I had even declared that I would never touch it,
+whereat the others only smiled a grim and confident smile. And now, at
+the first noon camp, I was ready to pronounce it one of the greatest
+delicacies I had ever tasted! They jeered at me, but their jeers were
+kind, friendly jeers, and I recall them with pleasure. In warm-hearted
+companionship no set of men that I have ever since been associated with
+has been superior to these fellow voyageurs, and the Major's big way of
+treating things has been a lesson all my life. We had all become fast
+true friends at once. With the exception of the Major, whom I had first
+met about two months before, and Frank whom I had known for a year or
+two, I had been acquainted with them only since we had met on the train
+on the way out.
+
+In the scant shelter of some greasewood bushes we devoured the repast
+which the morning's exercise and the crisp air had made so welcome, and
+each drank several cups of tea dipped from the camp-kettle wherein Andy
+had boiled it. We had no formal table. When all was ready, the magic
+words, "Well go fur it, boys," which Andy uttered stepping back from the
+fire were ceremony enough. Each man took a tin plate and a cup and
+served himself. Clem and Frank were sent back overland to the town for a
+box of thermometers forgotten and for an extra steering oar left behind,
+and the _Canonita_ waited for their return.
+
+During the afternoon, as we glided on, the hills began to close in upon
+us, and occasionally the river would cut into one making a high
+precipitous wall, a forerunner of the character of the river banks
+below. The order of going was, our boat, the _Emma Dean_, first, with
+Major Powell on the deck of the middle cabin, or compartment, sitting in
+his arm-chair, which was securely fastened there, but was easily
+removable. S. V. Jones was at the steering oar, Jack Hillers pulled his
+pair of oars in the after standing-room, while I was at the bow oars.
+The second in line was the _Nellie Powell_, Professor A. H. Thompson
+steering, J. F. Steward rowing aft, Captain F. M. Bishop forward, and
+Frank Richardson sitting rather uncomfortably on the middle deck. The
+third and last boat was the _Canonita_, which E. O. Beaman, the
+photographer steered, while Andrew Hattan, rowed aft, and Clement
+Powell, assistant photographer, forward. This order was preserved, with
+a few exceptions, throughout the first season's work. It was the duty of
+Prof. and Jones to make a traverse (or meander) of the river as we
+descended. They were to sight ahead at each bend with prismatic
+compasses and make estimates of the length of each sight, height of
+walls, width of stream, etc., and Cap was to put the results on paper.
+The Major on his first boat, kept a general lookout and gave commands
+according to circumstances. He remembered the general character of the
+river from his former descent, but he had to be on the _qui-vive_ as to
+details. Besides every stage of water makes a change in the nature of
+the river at every point. In addition to this outlook, the Major kept an
+eye on the geology, as he was chief geologist; and Steward, being
+assistant geologist did the same. Richardson was assistant to Steward.
+Jack was general assistant and afterwards photographer. I was artist,
+and later, assistant topographer also. It was my duty to make any sketch
+that the geologists might want, and of course, as in the case of
+everybody, to help in the navigation or anything else that came along.
+Each man had a rifle and some had also revolvers. Most of the rifles
+were Winchesters.[3] We had plenty of ammunition, and the rifles were
+generally kept where we could get at them quickly.
+
+In this order, and with these duties, we ran on down the Green, and so
+far at least as I was concerned, feeling as if we had suddenly stepped
+off into another world. Late in the afternoon we were astonished to
+discover a solitary old man sitting on the right bank fishing. Who he
+was we did not know but we gave him a cheer as we dashed by and were
+carried beyond his surprised vision. As the sun began to reach the
+horizon a lookout was kept for a good place for camp. I, for one, was
+deeply interested, as I had never yet slept in the open. At length we
+reached a spot where the hills were some distance back on the right
+leaving quite a bottom where there were a number of cottonwood trees. A
+deserted log cabin silently invited us to land and, as this was cordial
+for the wilderness, we responded in the affirmative. The sky had a look
+of storm about it and I was glad of even this excuse for a roof, though
+the cabin was too small to shelter our whole party, except standing up,
+and the beds were all put down on the ground outside. The night was very
+cold and the fire which we made for Andy's operations was most
+comforting. We had for supper another instalment of bacon,
+saleratus-bread, and tea, which tasted just as good as had that prepared
+at noon. Sitting on rocks and stumps we ate this meal, and presently the
+raw air reminded some of the smokers that, while they had thrown their
+tobacco away there was, in the boats, the quite large supply designed
+for our Red friends, should we meet any. Of course we had more than was
+absolutely necessary for them, and in a few minutes the pipes which had
+been cast away at Green River appeared well filled and burning. Perhaps
+we had pipes for the Indians too! I had not thrown my pipe away for it
+was a beautifully carved meerschaum--a present. I knew just where it was
+and lighted it up, though I was not a great smoker. The Indians did not
+get as much of that tobacco as they might have wished.
+
+To make our blankets go farther we bunked together two and two, and
+Jones and I were bed-fellows. It was some time before I could go to
+sleep. I kept studying the sky; watching the stars through the ragged
+breaks in the flying clouds. The night was silent after the gale. The
+river flowed on with little noise. The fire flickered and flickered, and
+the cottonwoods appeared dark and strange as I finally went to sleep. I
+had not been long in that happy state before I saw some men trying to
+steal our boats on which our lives depended and I immediately attacked
+them, pinning one to the ground. It was only Jones I was holding down,
+and his shouts and struggles to reach his pistol woke me, and startled
+the camp. He believed a real enemy was on him. There was a laugh at my
+expense, and then sleep ruled again till about daylight when I was
+roused by rain falling on my face. All were soon up. The rain changed to
+snow which fell so heavily that we were driven to the cabin where a
+glorious fire was made on the hearth, and by it Andy got the bread and
+bacon and coffee ready for breakfast, and also for dinner, for the snow
+was so thick we could not venture on the river till it stopped, and that
+was not till afternoon.
+
+The country through which we now passed was more broken. Cliffs, buttes,
+mesas, were everywhere. Sometimes we were between high rocky banks, then
+we saw a valley several miles wide, always without a sign of occupation
+by white men, even though as yet we were not far from the railway in a
+direct course. Very late in the afternoon we saw something moving in the
+distance on the right. Our glasses made it out to be two or three men
+on horseback. A signal was made which they saw, and consequently stopped
+to await developments, and a bag of fossils, the Major had collected,
+was sent out to them with a request to take it to Green River Station,
+in which direction they were headed. They proved to be a party of
+prospectors who agreed to deliver the fossils, and we went on our way.
+
+The mornings and evenings were very cold and frosty, but during the day
+the temperature was perfectly comfortable, and this was gratifying, for
+the river in places spread into several channels, so that no one of them
+was everywhere deep enough for the boats which drew, so heavily laden,
+sixteen or eighteen inches. The keels grated frequently on the bottom
+and we had to jump overboard to lighten the boats and pull them off into
+deep water. We found as we went on that we must be ready every moment,
+in all kinds of water, to get over into the river, and it was necessary
+to do so with our clothes on, including our shoes, for the reason that
+the rocky bottom would bruise and cut our feet without the shoes, rocks
+would do the same to our legs, and for the further reason that there was
+no time to remove garments. In the rapids further on we always shipped
+water and consequently we were wet from this cause most of the time
+anyhow. We had two suits of clothes, one for wear on the river in the
+day time, and the other for evening in camp, the latter being kept in a
+rubber bag, so that we always managed to be dry and warm at night. On
+making camp the day suit was spread out on rocks or on a branch of a
+tree if one were near, or on a bush to dry, and it was generally, though
+not always, comfortably so, in the morning when it was again put on for
+the river work. Sometimes, being still damp, the sensation for a few
+moments was not agreeable.
+
+We snapped several of the lighter oars in the cross currents, as the
+boats were heavy and did not mind quickly, and to backwater suddenly on
+one of the slender oars broke it like a reed. Some of the longer,
+heavier oars were then cut down to eight feet and were found to be
+entirely serviceable. The steering oars were cut down from eighteen to
+sixteen feet. Extra oars were carried slung on each side of the boats
+just under the gunwales, for the Major on the former journey had been
+much hampered by being obliged to halt to search for timber suitable for
+oars and then to make them. There was one thing about the boats which we
+soon discovered was a mistake. This was the lack of iron on the keels.
+The iron had been left off for the purpose of reducing the weight when
+it should be necessary to carry the boats around bad places, but the
+rocks and gravel cut the keels down alarmingly, till there was danger of
+wearing out the bottoms in the long voyage to come.[4]
+
+Jack was a great fisherman, and it was not long before he tried his luck
+in the waters of the Green. No one knew what kind of fish might be
+taken--at least no one in our party--and he began his fishing with some
+curiosity. It was rewarded by a species of fish none of us had ever
+before seen, a fish about ten to sixteen inches long, slim, with fine
+scales and large fins. Their heads came down with a sudden curve to the
+mouth, and their bodies tapered off to a very small circumference just
+before the tail spread out. They were good to eat, and formed a welcome
+addition to our larder. We were all eager for something fresh, and when
+we saw a couple of deer run across the bluffs just before we reached our
+fourth camp, our hopes of venison were roused to a high degree. Camp
+number four was opposite the mouth of Black's Fork at an altitude above
+sea level of 5940 feet, a descent of 135 feet from the railway bridge.
+After this the channel was steadier and the water deeper, Black's Fork
+being one of the largest tributaries of the upper river. We now came in
+view of the snowy line of the Uinta Range stretching east and west
+across our route and adding a beautiful alpine note to the wide barren
+array of cliffs and buttes. It was twenty or thirty miles off, but so
+clear was the air that we seemed to be almost upon it.
+
+As we were drifting along with a swift current in the afternoon, the day
+after passing Black's Fork, one of the party saw a deer on an island. A
+rifle shot from our boat missed, and the animal dashing into the river
+swam across and disappeared in the wide valley. But another was seen. A
+landing was made immediately, and while some of the men held the boats
+ready to pick up a prize, the others beat the island. I was assigned to
+man our boat, and as we waited up against the bank under the bushes, we
+could hear the rifles crack. Then all was still. Suddenly I heard a
+crashing of bushes and a hundred yards above us a superb black-tail
+sprang into the water and swam for the east bank. My sensation was
+divided between a desire to see the deer escape, and a desire to
+supplant the bacon with venison for a time. My cartridges were under the
+hatches as it chanced, so I was unable to take action myself. With deep
+interest I watched the animal swim and with regret that our fresh meat
+was so fortunate, for it was two-thirds of the way across, before a
+rifle cracked. The deer's efforts ceased instantly and she began to
+drift down with the current. We ran our boat out and hauled the carcass
+on board. At the same time as we were being carried down by the swift
+current we got a view of the other side of the island where Cap. up to
+his arms in the stream was trying to pull another deer ashore by the
+horns. It looked as if both deer and Cap. would sail away and forever,
+till another boat went to his rescue. Presently the third boat came down
+bearing still another deer. The successful shots were from Prof., Andy,
+and Steward. Our prospects for a feast were bright, and we had it. The
+deer were speedily dressed, Frank displaying exceptional skill in this
+line. Had we been able to stay in this region we would never have been
+in want of fresh meat, but when we entered the canyons the conditions
+were so different and the task of pursuing game so baffling and
+exhausting that we never had such success again. The whole of the next
+day we remained in a favourable spot at the foot of a strangely tilted
+ledge, where we jerked the venison by the aid of sun and fire to
+preserve it. Near this point as observations showed later we passed from
+Wyoming into Utah.
+
+About dusk we were surprised to discover a small craft with a single
+individual aboard coming down the river. Then we saw it was a raft. We
+watched its approach with deep interest wondering who the stranger could
+be, but he turned out to be Steward who had gone geologising and had
+taken this easier means of coming back. He tried it again farther down
+and met with an experience which taught him to trust to the land
+thereafter.
+
+[Illustration: Flaming Gorge.
+
+The Beginning of the Colorado River Canyons, N. E. Utah.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+The next day our boat was held back for some special work while the
+others proceeded toward a high spur of the Uintas, directly in front of
+us. We followed with a fierce and blinding gale sweeping the river and
+filling our eyes with sharp sand. Nevertheless we could see high up
+before us some bright red rocks marking the first canyon of the
+wonderful series that separates this river from the common world. From
+these bright rocks glowing in the sunlight like a flame above the
+grey-green of the ridge, the Major had bestowed on this place the name
+of Flaming Gorge. As we passed down towards the mountain it seemed that
+the river surely must end there, but suddenly just below the mouth of
+Henry's Fork it doubled to the left and we found ourselves between two
+low cliffs, then in a moment we dashed to the right into the beautiful
+canyon, with the cliffs whose summit we had seen, rising about 1300 feet
+on the right, and a steep slope on the left at the base of which was a
+small bottom covered with tall cottonwood trees, whose green shone
+resplendent against the red rocks. The other boats were swinging at
+their lines and the smoke of Andy's fire whirling on the wind was a
+cheerful sight to the ever-hungry inner-man. Constant exercise in the
+open air produces a constant appetite. As long as we could protect our
+cargoes, and make our connections with our supplies as planned, we would
+surely not have to go hungry, but we had to consider that there was room
+for some variation or degree of success. There was at least one
+comforting feature about the river work and that was we never suffered
+for drinking water. It was only on side trips, away from the river that
+we met this difficulty, so common in the Rocky Mountain Region and all
+the South-west.
+
+When the barometrical observations were worked out we found we had now
+descended 262 feet from our starting-point. That was four and a quarter
+feet for each mile of the sixty-two we had put behind. We always
+counted the miles put behind, for we knew they could not be retraced,
+but it was ever the miles and the rapids ahead that we kept most in our
+minds. We were now at the beginning of the real battle with the "Sunken
+River." Henceforth, high and forbidding cliffs with few breaks, would
+imprison the stream on both sides.
+
+A loss of our provisions would mean a journey on foot, after climbing
+out of the canyon, to Green River (Wyoming) to Salt Lake City or to the
+Uinta Indian Agency. There was a trail from Brown's Hole (now Brown's
+Park) back to the railway, but the difficulty would be to reach it if we
+should be wrecked in Red Canyon. We did not give these matters great
+concern at the time, but I emphasise them now to indicate some of the
+difficulties of the situation and the importance of preventing the wreck
+of even one boat.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 3: Two were of the original Henry pattern.]
+
+[Footnote 4: For further description of these boats the reader is
+referred to _The Romance of the Colorado River_, page 236, by F. S.
+Dellenbaugh.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+     The First Rapid--Horseshoe and Kingfisher Canyons--A Rough
+     Entrance into Red Canyon--Capsize of the _Nell_--The Grave of
+     a Bold Navigator--Discovery of a White Man's Camp--Good-bye to
+     Frank--At the Gate of Lodore.
+
+
+Prof. now took observations for time and latitude in order to fix with
+accuracy the geographical location of the camp in Flaming Gorge, and to
+check the estimates of the topographers as they sighted the various
+stretches of the river. It has been found that estimates of this kind
+are quite accurate and that the variation from exactness is generally
+the same in[5] the same individual. Hence one man may underestimate and
+another may overestimate, but each will always make the same error, and
+this error can be readily corrected by frequent observations to
+determine latitude and longitude. A series of barometrical observations
+was kept going whether we were on the move or not. That is, a mercurial
+barometer was read three times a day, regularly, at seven, at one, and
+at nine. We had aneroid barometers for work away from the river and
+these were constantly compared with and adjusted to the mercurials. The
+tubes of mercury sometimes got broken, and then a new one had to be
+boiled to replace it. I believe the boiling of tubes has since that time
+been abandoned, as there is not enough air in the tube to interfere with
+the action of the mercury, but at that time it was deemed necessary for
+accuracy, and it gave Prof. endless trouble. The wind was always
+blowing, and no tent we could contrive from blankets, and waggon sheets
+(we had no regular tents), sufficed to keep the flame of the alcohol
+lamp from flickering. Nevertheless, Prof. whose patience and dexterity
+were unlimited, always succeeded. The mercurial barometers were of the
+kind with a buckskin pocket at the bottom of the cistern with a screw
+for adjusting the column of mercury to a fixed point.
+
+Most of the men climbed out in various directions and for various
+objects. Prof. reached a high altitude whence he obtained a broad view
+of the country, a grand sight with the quiet river below and snow-capped
+mountains around, with rolling smoke and leaping flame, for there were
+great mountain fires not far off. The Major and Steward went
+geologising. Steward was rewarded by discovering a number of fossils,
+among them the bones of an immense animal of the world's early day, with
+a femur ten inches in diameter, and ribs two inches thick and six inches
+wide. These bones were much exposed and could have been dug out, but we
+had no means of transporting them.
+
+Flaming Gorge is an easy place to get in and out of, even with a horse,
+and doubtless in the old beaver-hunting days it was a favourite resort
+of trappers. I am inclined to think that the double turn of the swirling
+river where it enters Flaming Gorge is the place known at that time as
+the Green River Suck. Our camp under the cottonwoods was delightful. We
+took advantage of the halt to write up notes, clean guns, mend clothes,
+do our washing, and all the other little things incident to a breathing
+spell on a voyage of this kind. It was Sunday too, and when possible we
+stopped on that account, though, of course, progress could not be
+deferred for that reason alone.
+
+Monday morning we left the pleasant camp in the grove and went on with
+the tide. The river was rough from a heavy gale, but otherwise offered
+no obstacle. At a sudden bend we cut to the left deeper into the
+mountain till on both sides we were enclosed by almost perpendicular
+precipices of carboniferous formation, limestone, about 1600 feet high.
+The canyon was surprisingly beautiful and romantic. The river seemed to
+change its mood here, and began to flow with an impetus it had exhibited
+nowhere above. It swept on with a directness and a concentration of
+purpose that had about it something ominous. And just here, at the foot
+of the right hand wall which was perpendicular for 800 feet, with the
+left more sloping, and clothed with cedar shrubs, we beheld our first
+real rapid, gleaming like a jewel from its setting in the sunlight which
+fell into the gorge, and it had as majestic a setting as could be
+desired. For myself I can say that the place appeared the acme of the
+romantic and picturesque. The rapid was small and swift, a mere chute,
+and perhaps hardly worthy of mention had it not been the point where the
+character of the river current changes making it distinguished because
+of being the first of hundreds to come below. The river above had held a
+continual descent accelerating here and retarding there with an average
+current of two and a half miles an hour, but here began the quick drops
+for which the canyons are now famous. There was one place where Prof.
+noted a small rapid but it was not like this one, and I did not count it
+at all.
+
+[Illustration: Horseshoe Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+The gorge we ran into so suddenly was short and by dinner-time we had
+emerged into a wider, more broken place, though we were still bound in
+by tremendous heights. We saw that we had described a complete horseshoe
+and this fact determined the canyon's name--number two of the series.
+When we landed for dinner, an examination was made of the locality from
+that base before we dropped down a little distance to the mouth of a
+fine clear creek coming in from the right. This was a fascinating place.
+The great slopes were clothed with verdure and trees, and the creek ran
+through luxuriant vegetation. A halt of a day was made for observation
+purposes. The air was full of kingfishers darting about and we
+immediately called the creek by their name.
+
+I was sent with Steward on a geological expedition out over the right or
+western cliffs. We consumed two hours in getting out, having to climb up
+about 1000 feet over a difficult way. After a good deal of going up and
+down across rough ridges, we finally worked our way around to the head
+of Flaming Gorge. Here we reckoned up and found that eight steep ridges
+intervened between us and camp by the way we had come, and we concluded
+that we could get back easier through Flaming Gorge and thence by
+climbing over the tongue or base of the horseshoe which was lower than
+the end. Steward grew decidedly weary and I felt my legs getting heavy
+too. Rain had fallen at intervals all day and we were wet as well as
+tired and famished. We struck an old trail and followed it as long as it
+went our way. Then it became too dark to see which way it went and we
+climbed on as best we could. It was about half-past eight when we
+reached our camp to find a splendid fire burning and a good supper
+waiting for us.
+
+The new canyon which closed in the next day had walls about 1500 feet in
+height, that being the general height of the spur of the Uintas through
+which we were travelling. The changes from one canyon to another were
+only changes in the character of the bounding mountain walls, for there
+was no break into open country. The name of Kingfisher we gave to the
+new gorge for the same reason we had called the creek at our camp by
+that name, and so numerous were these birds at one rounded promontory
+that there was no escape from calling it Beehive Point, the resemblance
+to a gigantic hive being perfect. Kingfisher Canyon like its two
+predecessors was short, all three making a distance by the river of only
+about ten miles. Flaming Gorge is the gateway, Horseshoe the vestibule,
+and Kingfisher the ante-chamber to the whole grand series. At the foot
+of Kingfisher the rocks fell back a little and steep slopes took their
+place. Where the rocks closed in again, we halted on the threshold of
+the next gorge, in a fine grove of cottonwoods. A significant roar came
+to us out of the gate to Red Canyon, rolling up on the air with a
+steady, unvarying monotony that had a sinister meaning. It was plain
+that we were nearing something that was no paltry gem like the rapid we
+had so much admired in Horseshoe Canyon.
+
+The remainder of that day and all the next, which was June 1st, we
+stayed at this camp completing records, investigating the surroundings,
+and preparing for rough work ahead. On Friday morning the cabins were
+packed carefully, the life preservers were inflated, and we pulled out
+into the current. The cliffs shot up around us and rough water began at
+once. The descent was almost continuous for a considerable distance, but
+we divided it into three rapids in our notes, before we reached a sharp
+turn to the right, and then one just as sharp to the left, with vertical
+walls on both sides and a roaring torrent, broken by rocks, whirling
+between. Our boat shot down with fierce rapidity and would have gone
+through without a mishap had not the current dashed us so close to the
+right-hand wall that Jack's starboard row-lock was ripped off by a
+projection of the cliff as we were hurled along its rugged base. At the
+same moment we saw the _Nell_ upsetting against some rocks on the left.
+Then we swept out of view and I was obliged to pull with all my
+strength, Jack's one oar being useless. We succeeded in gaining a little
+cove on the left, and jumped out as soon as shallow enough, the Major
+immediately climbing the cliffs to a high point where he could look down
+on the unfortunate second boat. Prof., it seems, had misunderstood the
+Major's signal and had done just what he did not think he ought to do.
+He thought it meant to land on the left and he had tried to reach a
+small strip of beach, but finding this was not possible he turned the
+boat again into the current to retrieve his former position, but this
+was not successful and the _Nell_ was thrown on some rocks projecting
+from the left wall, in the midst of wild waters, striking hard enough to
+crush some upper planks of the port side. She immediately rolled over,
+and Frank slid under. Prof. clutched him and pulled him back while the
+men all sprang for the rocks and saved themselves and the boat from
+being washed away in this demoralised condition. With marvellous
+celerity Cap. took a turn with a rope around a small tree which he
+managed to reach, while Steward jumped to a position where he could
+prevent the boat from pounding. In a minute she was righted and they got
+her to the little beach where they had tried to land. Here they pulled
+her out and, partially unloading, repaired her temporarily as well as
+they could. This done they towed up to a point of vantage and made a
+fresh start and cleared the rapid with no further incident. Meanwhile
+the _Canonita_ had come in to where we were lying, and both boats were
+held ready to rescue the men of the other. After about three-quarters of
+an hour the unfortunate came down, her crew being rather elated over the
+experience and the distinction of having the first capsize.
+
+Setting out on the current again we passed two beautiful creeks entering
+from the right, and they were immediately named respectively, Compass
+and Kettle creeks, to commemorate the loss of these articles in the
+capsize. At the mouth of Kettle Creek, about a mile and a half below the
+capsize rapid, we stopped for dinner. Then running several small drops,
+we arrived at a long descent that compelled careful action. We always
+landed, where possible, to make an examination and learn the trend of
+the main current. Our not being able to do this above was the cause of
+the _Nell's_ trouble. We now saw that we had here landed on the wrong
+side and would have to make a somewhat hazardous crossing to the
+opposite, or right bank. Our boat tried it first. In spite of vigorous
+pulling we were carried faster down towards the rapid than to the
+objective landing. When we reached water about waist deep we all sprang
+overboard, and I got to shore with the line as quickly as I could. We
+were able to turn and catch the _Nell_ as she came in, but the
+_Canonita_ following ran too far down. We all dashed into the stream
+almost at the head of the rapid, and there caught her in time. The load
+was taken out of our boat and she was let down by lines over the worst
+part. Loading again we lowered to another bad place where we went into
+camp on the same spot where the Major had camped two years before. We
+unloaded the other boats and got them down before dark, but we ate
+supper by firelight. The river averaged about 250 feet wide, with a
+current of not less than six miles an hour and waves in the rapids over
+five feet in vertical height. These waves broke up stream as waves do in
+a swift current, and as the boats cut into them at a high velocity we
+shipped quantities of water and were constantly drenched, especially the
+bow-oarsmen. The cliffs on each side, wonderfully picturesque, soon ran
+up to 1200 or 1500 feet, and steadily increased their altitude. Owing to
+the dip of the strata across the east and west trend of the canyon the
+walls on the north were steeper than those on the south, but they seldom
+rose vertically from the river. Masses of talus, and often alluvial
+stretches with rocks and trees, were strung along their base, usually
+offering numerous excellent landings and camping places. We were able to
+stop about as we wished and had no trouble as to camps, though they were
+frequently not just what we would have preferred. There was always
+smooth sand to sleep on, and often plenty of willows to cut and lay in
+rows for a mattress. It must not be imagined that these great canyons
+are dark and gloomy in the daytime. They are no more so than an ordinary
+city street flanked with very high buildings. Some lateral canyons are
+narrow and so deep that the sun enters them but briefly, but even these
+are only shady, not dark.
+
+[Illustration: Red Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+We remained on the Major's old camp ground a day so that Jones and Cap.
+could climb to the top of the cliff to get the topography. The next
+morning though it was Sunday was not to be one of rest. We began by
+lowering the boats about forty rods farther and there pulled out into
+the stream and were dashed along by a fierce current with rapid
+following rapid closely. The descent was nearly continuous with greater
+declivities thrown in here and there. As usual we took in a good deal of
+water and were saturated. We were growing accustomed to this, and the
+boats being built to float even when the open parts were full, we did
+not mind sitting with our legs in cold water till opportunity came to
+bail out with the camp kettle left in each open space for the purpose.
+One rapid where Theodore Hook, of Cheyenne, was drowned in 1869, while
+attempting to follow the first party, gave us no trouble. We sailed
+through it easily. Hook had declared that if Powell could descend the
+river he could too, and he headed a party to follow.[6] The motive I
+believe was prospecting. I do not know how far they expected to go but
+this was as far as they got. Their abandoned boats, flat-bottomed and
+inadequate, still lay half buried in sand on the left-hand bank, and not
+far off on a sandy knoll was the grave of the unfortunate leader marked
+by a pine board set up, with his name painted on it. Old sacks, ropes,
+oars, etc., emphasised the completeness of the disaster.
+
+Not far below this we made what we called a "line portage," that is, the
+boats were worked along the edge of the rapid, one at a time, in and out
+among the boulders with three or four men clinging to them to fend them
+off the rocks and several more holding on to the hundred-foot hawser, so
+that there was no possibility of one getting loose and smashing up, or
+leaving us altogether. It was then noon and a camp was made for the
+remainder of the day on the left bank in a very comfortable spot. We had
+accomplished three and a half miles, with four distinct rapids run and
+one "let-down." I went up from the camp along a sandy stretch and was
+surprised to discover what I took to be the fresh print of the bare
+foot of a man. Mentioning this when I returned, my companions laughed
+and warned me to be cautious and give this strange man a wide berth
+unless I had my rifle and plenty of ammunition. It was the track of a
+grizzly bear. I saw many tracks on this expedition and on others
+afterwards but I have never seen a bear yet, except in captivity. The
+grizzly seemed to shun me; but I believe they will not often attack a
+man unprovoked, and will lie perfectly still while one may pass within a
+few feet of their hiding-place.
+
+Three or four deer were seen but with no opportunity to get a shot. All
+through these upper canyons there was then a great abundance of game of
+every description, and had our object been to kill for sport, we
+undoubtedly could have made a pile of carcasses. One or two deer would
+have been welcome but we had no time to pursue them. Steward came in
+towards night from his geologising with a splendid bouquet of wild
+flowers which was greatly admired. Prof. and the Major climbed west of
+camp to a height of 1200 feet where they obtained a wide outlook and
+secured valuable notes on the topography. The view was superb as it is
+anywhere from a high point in this region. When they came back, the
+Major entertained us by reading aloud _The Lay of the Last Minstrel_,
+thus delightfully closing a beautiful Sunday which every man had
+enjoyed.
+
+In the morning soon after leaving this camp a dull roar ahead told of
+our approach to Ashley Falls, for which we were on the lookout. The left
+bank was immediately hugged as closely as possible and we dropped
+cautiously down to the head of the descent. An immense rock stuck up in
+the middle of the river and the water divided on this and shot down on
+each side in a sharp fall of about eight feet. Each was a clear chute
+and not dangerous to look at, but the effect of so sudden a plunge on
+one of our loaded boats was too much of a problem for trial. A portage
+was decided on. The left bank where we were was a mass of enormous
+broken rocks where it seemed next to impossible to haul a boat. A foot
+trail was first built which led up some fifty feet above the river, and
+over, under and around huge boulders to a place down below where it was
+proposed to carry the boats on skids. The cargoes were first taken over
+on our backs and when this was done we were about tired out. Our united
+strength was required to work the _Dean_ down to the selected haven
+without injury. This was such extremely hard work that the Major and
+Prof. concluded to shoot the _Canonita_ through, light, with no men in
+her, but controlled by one of our hundred-foot hawsers attached to each
+end. She was started down and went through well enough, but filling with
+water and knocking on hidden rocks. Prudence condemned this method and
+we resorted to sliding and carrying the _Nell_ over the rocks as we had
+done with the _Dean_, certain that sleep and food would wipe out our
+weariness, but not injury to the boats which must be avoided by all
+means in our power. By the time we had placed the _Nell_ beside the
+other boats at the bottom it was sunset and too late to do anything but
+make a camp. Just above the head of the fall was a rather level place in
+a clump of pines at the very edge of the river forming as picturesque a
+camp-ground as I have ever seen. A brilliant moon hung over the canyon,
+lighting up the foam of the water in strong contrast to the red fire
+crackling its accompaniment to the roar of the rapid. A lunar rainbow
+danced fairy-like in the mists rising from the turmoil of the river. The
+night air was calm and mild. Prof. read aloud from _Hiawatha_ and it
+seemed to fit the time and place admirably. We had few books with us;
+poems of Longfellow, Whittier, Emerson, and Scott, are all I remember,
+except a Bible my mother had given me. I suppose Cap. had a Bible also,
+as he was very religious.
+
+The huge boulders which dammed the river had fallen from the cliffs on
+the left within a comparatively recent time, transforming an ordinary
+rapid into the fall; actually damming the water till it is smooth for
+half a mile above. The largest block of stone is the one in the middle.
+It is about twenty five feet square. The only white men on record to
+reach this place except the Major's other party, was General Ashley, the
+distinguished fur trader with a number of trappers. In his search for
+fresh beaver grounds he led his party in rude buffalo-skin boats through
+this canyon in 1825. They had a hard time and nearly starved to death as
+they depended for food on finding beaver and other game, in which they
+were disappointed. On one of my trips over the rocks with cargo I made a
+slight detour on the return to see the boulder where the Major had
+discovered Ashley's name with a date. The letters were in black, just
+under a slight projection and were surprisingly distinct considering the
+forty-six years of exposure. The "2" was illegible and looked like a
+"3." None of our party seemed to know that it could have been only a "2"
+for by the year 1835 Ashley had sold out and had given up the fur
+business in the mountains. Considering his ability, his prominence, his
+high character, and his identification with the early history of the
+West, there ought to be greater recognition of him than there has been.
+
+[Illustration: Red Canyon.
+
+Ashley Falls from Below.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+Below Ashley Falls the declivity of the river was very great with a
+correspondingly swift current, in one rapid reaching a velocity of at
+least fifteen miles an hour, and with waves that tossed our heavy boats
+like feathers. These were the most violent rapids we had yet met, not
+excepting the ones we had portaged. The cliffs, about 2500 feet high, of
+red sandstone, were often almost perpendicular on both sides, or at
+least they impressed us so at the time. There was much vegetation, pine,
+spruce, willow-leaved cottonwood, aspens, alder, etc., which added to
+the beauty and picturesqueness of the wild scenery. Beaman stopped each
+day where possible and desirable to take photographs, and at these times
+the others investigated the surroundings and climbed up side canyons
+when they existed. Late in the afternoon we came out suddenly into a
+small valley or park formerly called Little Brown's Hole, a noted
+rendezvous for trappers, and which we rechristened Red Canyon Park. This
+was a beautiful place bounded by round mountains, into which our great
+cliffs had temporarily resolved themselves, particularly on the right,
+the left side remaining pretty steep. Our camp was pitched under two
+large pine trees and every one was prepared, in the intervals of other
+duties, to take advantage of this respite to patch up clothing, shoes,
+etc., as well as to do what laundering was necessary. The river ran so
+quietly that we felt oppressed after the constant roaring since we had
+entered Red Canyon. I remember climbing up at evening with one of my
+companions, to a high altitude where the silence was deathlike and
+overpowering. Prof. and some of the others climbed to greater heights
+for topographical purposes, easily reaching an altitude of about 4000
+feet above the river in an air-line distance of about five miles. Here
+they obtained a magnificent panorama in all directions, limited on the
+west by the snowy chain of the Wasatch, and on the north by the Wind
+River Range like white clouds on the horizon 200 miles away, and they
+could trace the deep gorges of the river as they cleave the mountains
+from distance to distance.
+
+Here we saw signs of abundant game, elk, deer, bear, etc., but we had no
+time to go hunting as a business and the game refused to come to us.
+Each man had his work to accomplish so that we could get on. It was
+impracticable to go wandering over the mountains for game, much as we
+would have enjoyed a change from our bacon and beans. One day, only, was
+spent here for all purposes, geologising, topographic climbing, and
+working out the notes from up the river, making repairs and all the
+other needful things that crowded upon us. Here it was that I did my
+first tailoring and performed a feat of which I have ever since been
+proud; namely, transferring some coattails, from where they were of no
+use, to the knees and seat of my trousers where they were invaluable.
+
+On June 8th, we left this "Camp Number 13" regretfully and plunged in
+between the cliffs again for about eight miles, running five rapids,
+when we emerged into a large valley known as Brown's Hole, where our
+cliffs fell back for two or three miles on each side and became mountain
+ranges. Pulling along for a couple of miles on a quiet river we were
+surprised to discover on the left a white man's camp. Quickly landing we
+learned that it was some cattlemen's temporary headquarters (Harrell
+Brothers), and some of the men had been to Green River Station since our
+departure from that place, the distance by trail not being half that by
+river. They were expecting us and had brought some mail which was a glad
+sight for our eyes. These men had wintered about 2000 head of Texas
+cattle in this valley, noted for the salubrity of its winter climate
+since the days of the fur-hunters, and were on their way to the Pacific
+coast. We made a camp near by, with a cottonwood of a peculiar "Y"
+shape, more stump than tree, to give what shade-comfort it could, and
+enjoyed the relaxation which came with the feeling that we had put
+twenty-five miles of hard canyon behind, and were again in touch, though
+so briefly and at long range, with the outer world. As some of these men
+were to go out to the railway the following Sunday and offered to carry
+mail for us, we began to write letters to let our friends know how we
+were faring on our peculiar voyage. This "Brown's Hole" was the place
+selected by a man who pretended to have been with the former party, for
+the scene of that party's destruction which he reported to the
+newspapers. He thought as it was called a "hole" it must be one of the
+worst places on this raging river, not knowing that in the old trapper
+days when a man found a snug valley and dwelt there for a time it became
+known as his "hole" in the nomenclature of the mountains. The Major did
+not think this a satisfactory name and he changed it to "Brown's Park"
+which it now bears. I met an "old timer" on a western train several
+years afterward, who was greatly irritated because of this liberty which
+the Major took with the cherished designation of the early days. Fort
+Davy Crockett of the fur-trading period was located somewhere in this
+valley.
+
+[Illustration: In Red Canyon Park.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+The next morning after reaching Harrell's camp we were told that, as
+Frank did not seem able to stand the voyage he was to leave us here, to
+go over the mountains back to the railway, whence he would go home. We
+were all sorry to hear this and doubly sorry when on Sunday the 11th he
+mounted a mule and regretfully rode away with Mr. Harrell. The latter
+was to telegraph to Salt Lake to Mrs. Powell, to send our mail back to
+Green River Station so that it could be brought out to us on Mr.
+Harrell's return. Meanwhile we dropped down the river, now tranquil as a
+pond, with low banks covered with cottonwood groves. There were two
+small canyons the first of which we called "Little" about one-half mile
+long, and the second "Swallow," about two miles long. The cliffs were
+red sandstone about three hundred feet high, often vertical on both
+sides. Thousands of swallows swarmed there, and we did not resist giving
+it an obvious name. Below this the water spread out more and was full of
+islands. The current was sluggish, two miles an hour perhaps, and we
+indulged in the novelty of rowing the boats, though we did not try to
+make speed, for we had to wait for Mr. Harrell's return anyhow. The
+boats had been lightened by trading to Harrell some of our flour, of
+which we had an over abundance when it came to portages, for fresh beef,
+of which we were very much in need. At a convenient place we landed
+where there was a fine cottonwood grove and remained while Prof. made a
+climb and to jerk the beef. It was cut into thin strips and hung on a
+willow framework in the sun with a slow fire beneath. As the thermometer
+now stood at ninety-nine in the shade the beef was fairly well cured by
+the 13th and we went on, seeing one of the cattlemen and a Mexican boy
+on the left bank. In this neighbourhood we passed from Utah into
+Colorado. The river was six hundred feet broad and about six feet deep.
+We had no trouble from shoals, and finally lashed the three boats side
+by side and let them drift along in the slow current. The Major sitting
+in his arm-chair on the middle boat read aloud selections from _The Lady
+of the Lake_ which seemed to fit the scene well. Steward and Andy amused
+themselves by swimming along with the boats and occasionally diving
+under them.
+
+From our noon camp in a grove of cottonwoods opposite the mouth of
+Vermilion River, we could plainly see the great portal a mile or two
+away, the Gate of Lodore, where all this tranquillity would end, for the
+river cuts straight into the heart of the mountains forming one of the
+finest canyons of the series where the water comes down as Southey
+described it at Lodore, and the Major gave it that name. Before night we
+were at the very entrance and made our camp there in a grove of
+box-elders. Every man was looking forward to this canyon with some dread
+and before losing ourselves within its depths we expected to enjoy the
+letters from home which Mr. Harrell was to bring back from the railway
+for us. Myriads of mosquitoes gave us something else to think of, for
+they were exceedingly ferocious and persistent, driving us to a high
+bluff where a smudge was built to fight them off. We were nearly
+devoured. I fared best, a friend having given me a net for my head, and
+this, with buckskin gloves on my hands enabled me to exist with some
+comfort. The mountains rose abruptly just beyond our camp, and the river
+cleaved the solid mass at one stroke, forming the extraordinary and
+magnificent portal we named the "Gate of Lodore," one of the most
+striking entrances of a river into mountains to be found in all the
+world. It is visible for miles. Prof. climbed the left side of the Gate
+and also took observations for time.
+
+I was sent back to the valley to make some sketches and also to
+accompany Steward on a geological tramp. We had an uncomfortable
+experience because of the excessive heat and aridity. I learned several
+things about mountaineering that I never forgot, one of which was to
+always thoroughly note and mark a place where anything is left to be
+picked up on a return, for, leaving our haversack under a cedar it
+eluded all search till the next day, and meanwhile we were compelled to
+go to the river two or three miles away for water. We had a rubber
+poncho and a blanket. Using the rubber for a mattress and the blanket
+for a covering we passed the night, starting early for the mountains,
+where at last we found our food bag. After eating a biscuit we went back
+to the river and made tea and toasted some beef on the end of a ramrod,
+when we struck for the main camp, arriving at dinner-time.
+
+The Gate of Lodore seemed naturally the beginning of a new stage in our
+voyage to which we turned with some anxiety, for it was in the gorge now
+before us that on the first trip a boat had been irretrievably smashed.
+We were now 130 miles by river from the Union Pacific Railway crossing,
+and in this distance we had descended 700 feet in altitude, more than
+400 feet of it in Red Canyon. Lodore was said to have an even greater
+declivity.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 5: Three points on Green River below the Union Pacific
+crossing had been determined by previous explorers, the mouth of Henry's
+Fork, the mouth of the Uinta, and Gunnison Crossing.]
+
+[Footnote 6: I do not know the number of men composing this party.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+     Locked in the Chasm of Lodore--Rapids with Railway Speed--A
+     Treacherous Approach to Falls of Disaster--Numerous Loadings
+     and Unloadings--Over the Rocks with Cargoes--Library
+     Increased by _Putnam's Magazine_--Triplet Falls and Hell's
+     Half Mile--Fire in Camp--Exit from Turmoil to Peace.
+
+
+On Saturday the 17th of June, the member of the Harrell party who was to
+travel overland from Green River Station with mail for us from Salt Lake
+arrived with only two letters. The despatch had been too late to stop
+the packet which already had been started for the Uinta Indian Agency,
+whence it would reach us at the mouth of the Uinta River. It would be
+another month, at least, before we could receive those longed for words
+from home. There was nothing now to delay us further, and after dinner
+the boats were prepared for canyon work again. Through Brown's Park we
+had not been obliged to pay much attention to "ship-shape" arrangements,
+but now the story was to be different. The cabins were packed with
+unusual care, the life-preservers were inflated and put where they could
+be quickly seized on the approach to a bad descent, and at four o'clock
+we were afloat. The wide horizon vanished. The cliffs, red and majestic,
+rose at one bound to a height of about 2000 feet on each side, the most
+abrupt and magnificent gateway to a canyon imaginable. We entered
+slowly, for the current in the beginning is not swift, and we watched
+the mighty precipices while they appeared to fold themselves together
+behind and shut us more than ever away from the surrounding wilderness.
+For a short time the stream was quite tame. Then the murmur of distant
+troubled waters reached us and we prepared for work. The first rapid was
+not a bad one; we ran it without halting and ran three more in quick
+succession, one of which was rather ugly.
+
+[Illustration: The Head of the Canyon of Lodore.
+
+Just inside the Gate.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+This success caused some of us prematurely to conclude that perhaps "the
+way the water comes down at Lodore," was not so terrific as had been
+anticipated. The Major said nothing. He kept his eyes directed ahead.
+The river ran about 300 feet wide, with a current of 10 to 15 miles an
+hour in the rapids. At every bend new vistas of beauty were exhibited,
+and the cliffs impressed us more and more by their increasing height and
+sublimity. Landing places were numerous. Presently there came to our
+ears a roar with an undertone which spoke a language now familiar, and
+we kept as close to the right bank as possible, so that a stop could be
+instantly made at the proper moment. When this moment arrived a landing
+was effected for examination, and it revealed a furious descent, studded
+with large rocks, with a possibility of safely running through it if an
+exact course could be held, but the hour being now late a camp was made
+at the head and further investigation deferred till the next morning.
+
+This morning was Sunday, and the sun shone into the canyon with dazzling
+brilliancy, all being tranquil except the foaming rapid. The locality
+was so fascinating that we lingered to explore, finding especial
+interest in a delightful grotto carved out of the red sandstone by the
+waters of a small brook. The entrance was narrow, barely 20 feet, a mere
+cleft in the beginning, but as one proceeded up it between walls 1500
+feet high, the cleft widened, till at 15 rods it ended in an
+amphitheatre 100 feet in diameter, with a domed top. Clear, cold water
+trickled and dropped in thousands of diamond-like globules from
+everything. Mosses and ferns filled all the crevices adding a brilliant
+green to the picture, while far up overhead a little ribbon of blue sky
+could be seen; and, beyond the mouth, the yellow river. It was an
+exquisite scene. At the request of Steward, it's discoverer, it was
+named after his little daughter, "Winnie's Grotto." So charming was it
+here that we did not get off till ten o'clock, Beaman meanwhile taking
+several views.
+
+It was decided to run the rapid, for there was a comparatively straight
+channel about ten feet wide, and it was only a question of steering
+right. As our boat was to take it first the other crews came to a point
+where they could watch us to advantage and profit by our experience.
+Sticks, as usual, had been thrown in to determine the trend of the main
+current which must always be considered in dealing with any rapid. If it
+dashes against a cliff below, means must be found to cut across before
+reaching that point. On the other hand, if the main current has a
+comparatively clear chute, running through is not a difficult matter as
+in the present case. We pulled up-stream a short distance before putting
+out into the middle. Then we took the rapid as squarely as possible. We
+saw that we would have to go sharply to the left to avoid one line of
+rocks, and then to the right to clear another, both of which actions
+were successfully accomplished. Then we waited below for the others.
+They had no trouble either, and the three boats sped on and on into the
+greater depths beyond where wilder waters were foaming.
+
+All rapids have "tails" of waves tapering out below, that is the waves
+grow smaller as they increase the distance from the initial wave. These
+waves are the reverse of sea waves, the form remaining in practically
+one place while the water flies through. In many rapids there is an eddy
+on each side of this tail in which a current runs up-river with great
+force. If a boat is caught in this eddy it may be carried a second time
+through a part of the rapid. We soon arrived at another rapid in which
+this very thing happened to our boat. We were caught by the eddy and
+carried up-stream to be launched directly into the path of the _Nell_,
+which had started down. Prof. skilfully threw his boat to one side and
+succeeded in avoiding a collision. Nothing could be done with our boat
+but to let her go where she would for the moment. We then ran two other
+rapids, rough ones too, but there was no trouble in them for any of the
+boats. The velocity at this stage of water was astonishing, and the
+opportunities to land in quiet water between the rapids now were few.
+
+[Illustration: Canyon of Lodore.
+
+Low water.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1874.]
+
+About dinner-time as we emerged at high speed from one rapid we saw
+immediately below lying in ominous shadow, another. It had a forbidding
+look. In Red Canyon owing to the east-and-west trend the sun fell to the
+bottom for many more hours than in Lodore which has a north-and-south
+trend. Hence here even at high noon, one side or the other might be in
+deep shadow. In this particular case it was the left wall which came
+down very straight to the river, the outside of a bend. Opposite was a
+rocky, wooded point. Between these the rapid swept down. There was no
+slack water separating the end of the rapid we left from the beginning
+of this one so obscurely situated. Landing was no easy task at the speed
+with which we were flying, but it would not do to try to run the rapid
+without an examination. The only possible place to stop was on the right
+where there was a cove with a little strip of beach, and we headed for
+it instantly, pulling with every muscle. Yet we continued going on down
+at railway speed. When at last we arrived within a few feet of the bank
+the problem was how to stop. The water appeared shallow, though we could
+not see bottom on account of its murky character, and there was only one
+course, which was to jump out and make anchors of our legs. As we did so
+we sank to our waists and were pulled along for a moment but our feet,
+braced against the large rocks on the bottom, served the purpose and the
+momentum was overcome. Once the velocity was gone it was easy to get the
+boat to the beach, and she was tied there just in time to allow us to
+rush to the help of the _Nell_.[7] Scarcely had the _Nell_ been tied up
+than the _Canonita_ came darting for the same spot like a locomotive.
+With the force on hand she was easily controlled, and the fact that she
+carried the cook outfit as well as the cook added to our joy at having
+her so speedily on the beach. Andy went to work immediately to build a
+fire and prepare dinner while the rest overhauled the boats, took
+observations, plotted notes, or did other necessary things, and the
+Major and Prof. went down to take a close look at the rapid which had
+caused us such sudden and violent exertion. They reported a clear
+channel in the middle, and when we continued after dinner, we went
+through easily and safely, as of course we could have done in the first
+place if the Major had been willing to take an unknown risk. But in the
+shadow the fall might have been almost anything and it would have been
+foolhardy to run it without examination, even though we found it so hard
+to stop. Below the rapid that had halted us so abruptly there was
+nothing for about a mile but easy running, when we stopped in a cove to
+examine another rapid. Prof. here started up eleven mountain sheep, but
+by the time he had come back to the boats for a gun they were beyond
+reach. Though this rapid could be easily run, there was just below it
+only a short distance the fall where the _No-Name_ was wrecked on the
+first trip, and we would have to be cautious, for the approach to that
+fall we knew was treacherous.
+
+The river comes at this point from the east, bends south, then west, and
+it is just at the western bend that the steep rush of the big fall
+begins and continues for three-quarters of a mile. On the right the
+waters beat fiercely against the foot of the perpendicular wall, while
+on the left they are confined by a rocky point, the end of which is
+composed of enormous blocks. The space for the stream between this point
+and the opposite cliff is narrow, while the river above it spreads
+rather wide with a deep bay on the left where there is quiet water. This
+bay is protected a quarter of a mile up by a jutting point, and is
+merely back water. Just off the point the whole river suddenly becomes
+saucer-like, and quite smooth, with all the currents drawing strongly in
+from every direction and pouring toward and over the falls. An object
+once within the grip of this "sag," as we called it, is obliged to pass
+over the falls. The situation is peculiar and it occurs nowhere else on
+the whole river. Not being understood on the first voyage one of the
+boats, the _No-Name_, was trapped, driven over the falls, and broken to
+fragments, though the men were rescued below. The disaster was the cause
+of some unpleasantness on that voyage, the men blaming the Major for not
+signalling properly and he blaming them for not landing quickly when he
+signalled.
+
+We were on the lookout for it and the Major having the wreck to
+emphasise the peculiarities of the "sag" desired to have every boat turn
+the point at the correct moment. Ours ran through the preliminary rapid
+easily and we dropped cautiously down upon our great enemy, hugging the
+left bank as closely as we could to reach the jutting point around which
+the boat must pass to arrive in the safe waters of the bay. We turned
+the point with no difficulty, and proceeded a distance across the bay
+where we landed on a beach to watch for the other boats, the steersmen
+having been informed as to the precariousness of the locality.
+Nevertheless it was so deceptive that when the _Nell_ came in sight she
+was not close enough to the left shore for safety. The Major signalled
+vigorously with his hat, and Prof. took the warning instantly and turned
+in, but when the _Canonita_ appeared we saw at once that she was
+altogether too far out and for some seconds we stood almost petrified
+while the Major again signalled with all his might. It seemed an even
+chance; then she gained on the current and finally reached good water
+whence she came to our position. Beaman had been a pilot on the Great
+Lakes and was expert with a steering-oar, and probably for that reason
+he was somewhat careless. There was hardly an excuse in this instance
+for a boat not to take the proper course for the experience of the
+_No-Name_ told the whole story, yet the place is so peculiar and unusual
+that one even forewarned may fail. Across the bay pulling was safe and
+we ran to a beach very close to the head of the falls where we made our
+camp, the sun now being low and the huge cliffs casting a profound and
+sombre shadow into the bottom. It was a wild, a fierce, an impressive
+situation. The unending heavy roar of the tumbling river, the difficulty
+if not impossibility of turning back even if such a thing had been
+desired, the equal difficulty if not impossibility of scaling the walls
+that stood more than 2000 feet above us, and the general sublimity of
+the entire surroundings, rendered our position to my mind intensely
+dramatic. Two years before, on this identical spot the Major had camped
+with the loss of one of his boats bearing heavily on his mind, though
+his magnificent will, his cheerful self-reliance, and his unconquerable
+determination to dominate any situation gave him power and allied him to
+the river itself. The place practically chose its own name, Disaster
+Falls, and it was so recorded by the topographers.
+
+A hard portage was ahead of us and all turned in early to prepare by a
+good sleep for the long work of the next day. No tent as a rule was
+erected unless there was rain, and then a large canvas from each boat
+was put up on oars or other sticks, the ends being left open. In a
+driving storm a blanket would answer to fill in. As there was now no
+indication of a storm our beds were placed on the sand as usual with the
+sides of the canyon for chamber walls and the multitudinous stars for
+roof.
+
+A short distance below the great rapid near which we were camped was a
+second equally bad, the two together making up the three-quarter mile
+descent of Disaster Falls. Between them the river became level for a
+brief space and wider, and a deposit of boulders and gravel appeared
+there in the middle above the surface at the present stage of water. It
+was this island which had saved the occupants of the _No-Name_, and from
+which they were rescued.
+
+We were up very early in the morning, and began to carry the cargoes by
+a trail we made over and around the huge boulders to a place below the
+bad water of the first fall. The temperature was in the 90's and it was
+hot work climbing with a fifty-pound sack on one's back, but at last
+after many trips back and forth every article was below. Then the empty
+boats were taken one at a time, and by pulling, lifting, and sliding on
+skids of driftwood, and by floating wherever practicable in the quieter
+edges of the water, we got them successfully past the first fall. Here
+the loads were replaced, and with our good long and strong lines an inch
+thick, the boats were sent down several hundred yards in the rather
+level water referred to intervening between the foot of the upper fall
+and the head of the lower, to the beginning of the second descent. This
+all occupied much time, for nothing could be done rapidly, and noon
+came, in the midst of our work. Anticipating this event Andy had gone
+ahead with his cook outfit and had baked the dinner bread in his Dutch
+oven. With the usual fried bacon and coffee the inner man was speedily
+fortified for another wrestle with the difficult and laborious
+situation. The dinner bread was baked from flour taken out of a
+hundred-pound sack that was found lying on top of an immense boulder far
+above the river. This was flour that had been rescued by the former
+party from the wreckage of the _No-Name_, but as they could not add it
+to their remaining heavily laden boats, the Major had been compelled to
+leave it lying here. They needed it badly enough towards the end. It was
+still sweet and good, but we could not take it either. We were so much
+better provisioned than the former party that it was, besides, not
+necessary for us, and we also left it where it was. Our supplies were
+not likely to fail us at the mouth of the Uinta, and beyond that there
+was not yet need to worry. Although there were only two points below
+Gunnison Crossing in a distance of nearly 600 miles where it was known
+that the river could be reached, the Crossing of the Fathers and the
+mouth of the Paria not far below it, we felt sure that those who had
+been charged with the bringing of supplies to the mouth of the "Dirty
+Devil" would be able to get there, and as we were to stop for the season
+at the Paria, we would have time to plan for beyond. In any case our
+boats were carrying now all they could, and without a regret we turned
+our backs on the outcast flour. It was an ordinary sack of bolted wheat
+flour, first in a cotton bag then in a gunny bag and had been lying
+unbroken for two years. The outside for half an inch was hard, but
+inside of that the flour was in excellent condition. Two oars were also
+found. They were doubtless from the _No-Name_.
+
+[Illustration: F. S. Dellenbaugh
+
+The Heart of Lodore.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+After dinner we once more unloaded the boats and carried everything on
+our backs up and across a long rocky hill, or point, down to a spot,
+about a third of a mile altogether, where the goods were piled on a
+smooth little beach at the margin of a quiet bay. It took many trips,
+and it was exhausting work, but in addition to bringing the cargoes
+down, we also by half past five got one of the boats there, by working
+it over the rocks and along the edge. Here we camped and had supper as
+soon as Andy could get it ready. It may be asked by some not familiar
+with scientific work, how we always knew the time, but as we had the
+necessary instruments for taking time astronomically, there was nothing
+difficult about it. We also carried fine chronometers, and had a number
+of watches.
+
+In the sand near the camp, which place at highest water might have
+formed an eddy behind some huge rocks, a few old knives, forks, a rusty
+bake oven, and other articles were found, the wreckage from some party
+prior to that of the Major's first. He said they had not left anything
+of that sort, and he had noticed the same things on the former trip.
+
+The total fall of the river here is about fifty feet, and no boat could
+get through without smashing.
+
+The morning of June 20th found us early at work bringing down the two
+boats we had left, and as soon as this was accomplished the cargoes were
+put on once more, and we lowered the three one at a time, along the left
+bank by means of our hundred-foot hawsers, with everything in them,
+about a quarter of a mile to another bad place which we called Lower
+Disaster Falls. Here we unloaded and made a short portage while Andy was
+getting dinner. When we had disposed of this and reloaded, we pulled
+into the river, which averaged about 350 feet wide, with a current in
+places of 15 miles or more, and quickly arrived at three bad rapids in
+succession, all of which we ran triumphantly, though the former party
+made portages around them. In the third our boat took in so much water
+that we made a landing in order to bail out. Continuing immediately we
+reached another heavy rapid, but ran it without even stopping to
+reconnoitre, as the way seemed perfectly clear. We took the next rapid
+with equal success, though our boat got caught in an eddy and was turned
+completely round, while the others ran past us. They landed to wait, and
+there we all took a little breathing spell before attempting to run
+another rapid just below which we made camp in a grove of cedars, at the
+beginning of a descent that looked so ugly it was decided to make a
+"let-down" on the following day. Everybody was wet to the skin and glad
+to get on some dry clothes, as soon as we could pull out our bags. The
+cliffs had now reached an altitude of at least 2500 feet, and they
+appeared to be nearly perpendicular, but generally not from the water's
+edge where there was usually a bank of some kind or the foot of a steep
+talus. There were box-elder and cottonwood trees here and there, and
+cedars up the cliffs wherever they could find a footing. On the heights
+tall pine trees could be seen. The cliff just opposite camp was almost
+vertical from the rapid at its foot to the brink 2500 feet above, and
+flame red.
+
+After supper as we all sat in admiration and peering with some awe at
+the narrow belt of sky, narrower than we had before seen it, the stars
+slowly came out, and presently on the exact edge of the magnificent
+precipice, set there like a diadem, appeared the Constellation of the
+Harp. It was an impressive sight, and immediately the name was bestowed
+"The Cliff of the Harp."[8]
+
+Prof. read _Marmion_ aloud, and Jack gave us a song or two, before we
+went to sleep feeling well satisfied with our progress into the heart of
+Lodore.
+
+This portion of the river has a very great declivity, the greatest as we
+afterwards determined on the entire Green and Colorado with the
+exception of a section of Cataract and a part of the First Granite Gorge
+of the Grand Canyon, where the declivity is much the same, with Cataract
+Canyon in the lead. A quarter-mile above our camp a fine little stream,
+Cascade Creek, came in on the right. Beaman made some photographs in the
+morning, and we began to work the boats down along the edge of the rapid
+beside which we had camped. This took us till noon, and we had dinner
+before venturing on. When we set forth we had good luck, and soon put
+four rapids behind, running the first, letting down past two and running
+the fourth which was a pretty bad one. Three-quarters of a mile of
+smooth water then gave us a respite much appreciated, when we arrived at
+a wild descent about as bad as Disaster Falls, though more safely
+approached. This was called Triplet Falls by the first party. We went
+into camp at the head of it on the left bank. This day we found a number
+of fragments of the _No-Name_ here and there, besides an axe and a vise
+abandoned by the first party, and a welcome addition to our library in a
+copy of _Putnam's Magazine_. This was the first magazine ever to
+penetrate to these extreme wilds. The river was from 300 to 400 feet
+wide, and the walls ran along with little change, about 2500 feet high.
+Opposite camp was Dunn's Cliff, the end of the Sierra Escalante, about
+2800 feet high, named for one of the first party who was killed by the
+Indians down in Arizona. We remained a day here to let the topographers
+climb out if they could. They had little trouble in doing this, and
+after a pleasant climb reached the top through a gulch at an altitude
+above the river of 3200 feet. The view was extensive and their efforts
+were rewarded by obtaining much topographical information. Late in the
+day the sky grew dark, the thunder rolled, and just before supper we had
+a good shower.
+
+[Illustration: Canyon of Lodore--Dunn's Cliff.
+
+2800 Feet above River.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+On the 23d progress was continued and every one felt well after the
+cessation for a day of the knocking about amidst the foam and boulders.
+It took us, with hard work, till two o'clock to get past Triplet Falls
+by means of a double portage. About half a mile below this we were
+confronted by one of the worst looking places we had yet seen, and at
+the suggestion of Steward it received the significant name of "Hell's
+Half Mile." The entire river for more than half a mile was one sheet of
+white foam. There was not a quiet spot in the whole distance, and the
+water plunged and pounded in its fierce descent and sent up a deafening
+roar. The only way one could be heard was to yell with full lung power.
+Landing at the head of it easily we there unloaded the _Dean_ and let
+her down by line for some distance. In the worst place she capsized but
+was not damaged. Then the water, near the shore we were on, though
+turbulent in the extreme became so shallow on account of the great width
+of the rapid here that when we had again loaded the _Dean_ there were
+places where we were forced to walk alongside and lift her over rocks,
+but several men at the same time always had a strong hold on the shore
+end of the line. In this way we got her down as far as was practicable
+by that method. At this point the river changed. The water became more
+concentrated and consequently deeper. It was necessary to unload the
+boat again and work her on down with a couple of men in her and the rest
+holding the line on shore as we had done above. When the roughest part
+was past in this manner, we made her fast and proceeded to carry her
+cargo down to this spot which took some time. It was there put on board
+again and the hatches firmly secured. The boat was held firmly behind a
+huge sheltering rock and when all was ready her crew took their places.
+With the Major clinging to the middle cabin, as his chair had been left
+above and would be carried down later, we shoved out into the swift
+current, here free from rocks, and literally bounded over the waves that
+formed the end of the descent, to clear water where we landed on a snug
+little beach and made the boat secure for the night. Picking our way
+along shore back to the head of the rapid, camp was made there as the
+darkness was falling and nothing more could be done that night.
+
+[Illustration: Jones, Hillers, F. S. Dellenbaugh
+
+Canyon of Lodore.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+It was next to impossible to converse, but every one being very tired it
+was not long after supper before we took to the blankets and not a man
+was kept awake by the noise. It seemed only a few moments before it was
+time to go at it again. All hands were up early and the other two boats
+were taken laboriously down in the same manner as the _Dean_ had been
+engineered, but though we toiled steadily it was one o'clock by the time
+we succeeded in placing them alongside that boat. Anticipating this,
+Andy's utensils were taken down on the _Nell_, and while we were working
+with the _Canonita_, our good chef prepared the dinner and we stopped
+long enough to fortify ourselves with it. Having to build a trail in
+some places in order to carry the goods across ridges and boulders, it
+was not alone the work on lowering the boats which delayed us. While we
+were absorbed in these operations the camp-fire of the morning in some
+way spread unperceived into the thick sage-brush and cedars which
+covered the point, and we vacated the place none too soon, for the
+flames were leaping high, and by the time we had finished our dinner at
+the foot of the rapid, the point we had so recently left was a horrible
+furnace. The fire was jumping and playing amidst dense smoke which
+rolled a mighty column, a thousand feet it seemed to me above the top of
+the canyon; that is over 3000 feet into the tranquil air.
+
+At two o'clock all three boats were again charging down on a stiff
+current with rather bad conditions, though we ran two sharp rapids
+without much trouble. In one the _Nell_ got on a smooth rock and came
+near capsizing. The current at the spot happened to be not so swift and
+she escaped with no damage. Then we were brought up by another rapid, a
+very bad one. Evening was drawing on and every man was feeling somewhat
+used up by the severe exertions of the day. Camp was therefore ordered
+at the head of this rapid in the midst of scenery that has probably as
+great beauty, picturesqueness, and grandeur as any to be found in the
+whole West. I hardly know how to describe it. All day long the
+surroundings had been supremely beautiful, majestic, but at this camp
+everything was on a superlative scale and words seem colourless and
+futile. The precipices on both sides, about 2200 feet high, conveyed the
+impression of being almost vertical. Our camp was several hundred yards
+from the rapid and we could talk with some comfort. After supper I
+wandered alone down beside the furiously plunging waters and came upon a
+brood of young magpies airing themselves on the sand. The roar of the
+fall prevented their hearing and I walked among them, picked one up and
+took it to camp to show their comicality, when I let it go back to the
+rendezvous. I was censured especially by the Major, for cruelty to
+animals.
+
+The next day was Sunday and it came with a radiance that further
+enhanced the remarkable grandeur around us. Near by was a side canyon of
+the most picturesque type, down which a clear little brook danced from
+ledge to ledge and from pool to pool, twenty to thirty feet at a time.
+We named it Leaping Brook. The rocks were mossy, and fir trees, pines,
+cedars, and cottonwoods added the charm of foliage to the brilliant
+colours of the rocks and the sheen of falling water, here and there lost
+in the most profound shadows. Beaman made a number of views while the
+rest of the men climbed for various purposes. Steward, Clem, and I by a
+circuitous route arrived at a point high up on Leaping Brook where the
+scene was beyond description. To save trouble on the return we descended
+the brook as it was easy to slide down places that could not be climbed.
+In this manner we succeeded in getting to the last descent near camp, to
+discover that it was higher than we thought and almost vertical with
+rough rocks at the bottom. As we could not go back and had no desire to
+break a leg, we were in trouble. Then we spied Jack in the camp a short
+distance away and called to him to put a tree up for us. Good-natured
+Jack, always ready to help, assumed a gruff tone and pretended he would
+never help us, but we knew better, and presently he threw up a long dead
+pine which we could reach by a short slide, and thus got to the river
+level. It was now noon, and as soon as dinner was over the boats were
+lowered by lines past the rapid beside camp and once below this we shot
+on our way with a fine current, soon arriving at two moderate rapids
+close together, which we ran. This brought us to a third with an ugly
+look, but on examination Prof. and the Major decided to run it. Getting
+a good entrance all the boats went through without the slightest mishap.
+A mile below this place we landed at the mouth of a pretty little stream
+entering through a picturesque and narrow canyon on the left. We called
+it Alcove Brook.
+
+Beaman took some negatives here. This was not the easy matter that the
+dry-plate afterwards made it, for the dark tent had to be set up, the
+glass plate flowed with collodion, then placed in the silver bath, and
+exposed wet in the camera, to be immediately developed and washed and
+placed in a special box for carriage.
+
+This would have been an ideal place for a hunter. Numerous fresh tracks
+of grizzlies were noticed all around, but we did not have the good luck
+to see any of the animals themselves. Happy grounds these canyons were
+at that time for the bears, and they may still be enjoying the seclusion
+the depths afford. The spot had an additional interest for us because it
+was here that on the first trip the brush caught fire soon after the
+party had landed, and they were forced to take to the boats so
+unceremoniously that they lost part of their mess-kit and some clothing.
+
+On leaving Alcove Brook we ran a rapid and then another a little farther
+on, but they were easy and the river was much calmer though the current
+was still very swift. At the same time the walls to our satisfaction
+began to give indications of breaking. They became less high, less
+compact, and we ventured to hope that our battle with the waters of
+Lodore was about over. The Major said that, as nearly as he could
+remember, the end of the great gorge was not very far below. Though the
+sky was beginning to show the evening tints we kept on and ever on,
+swiftly but smoothly, looking up at the sky and at the splendid walls.
+The sun went down. The chasm grew hazy with the soft light of evening
+and the mystery of the bends deepened. There was no obstruction and in
+about three miles from Alcove Brook we rather abruptly emerged into a
+beautiful small opening, where the immediate walls were no more than six
+hundred feet high. A river of considerable size flowed in on the left,
+through a deep and narrow canyon. This was the Yampa, sometimes then
+called Bear River. By seven o'clock we had moored the boats a few yards
+up its mouth and we made a comfortable camp in a box-elder grove. We
+had won the fight without disaster and we slept that night in peace.
+
+Lodore is wholly within the State of Colorado. It is 20-3/4 miles long
+with a descent of 420 feet,[9] mostly concentrated between Disaster
+Falls and Hell's Half-Mile, a distance of about 12 miles. The total
+descent from the Union Pacific crossing was 975 feet in a distance, as
+the river runs, of about 153 miles.
+
+[Illustration: Echo Park.
+
+Mouth of Yampa River in Foreground, Green River on Right.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 7: Professor Thompson's diary says he landed first after a
+hard pull, "and then caught the other boats below, they not succeeding
+in getting in."]
+
+[Footnote 8: In his report the Major ascribes the naming of this cliff
+to an evening on the first voyage. The incident could hardly have
+occurred twice even had the camps been in the same place.]
+
+[Footnote 9: In my _Romance of the Colorado River_ these figures were
+changed to 275 because of barometrical data supplied me which was
+supposed to be accurate. I have concluded that it was not.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+     A Remarkable Echo--Up the Canyon of the Yampa--Steward and
+     Clem Try a Moonlight Swim--Whirlpool Canyon and Mountain
+     Sheep--A Grand Fourth-of-July Dinner--A Rainbow-Coloured
+     Valley--The Major Proceeds in Advance--A Split Mountain with
+     Rapids a Plenty--Enter a Big Valley at Last.
+
+
+The little opening between canyons we named Echo Park, first because
+after the close quarters of Lodore it seemed very park-like, and second
+because from the smooth bare cliff directly opposite our landing a
+distinct echo of ten words was returned to the speaker. I had never
+before, and have never since, heard so clear and perfect an echo with so
+many words repeated. We were camped on the right bank of the Yampa as
+the left was a bottom land covered with cedars and we preferred higher
+ground. This bottom was an alluvial deposit triangular in shape about a
+mile long and a quarter of a mile wide with the Yampa and Green on two
+sides and a vertical sandstone wall on the third. Behind our camp the
+rocks broke back in a rough, steep slope for perhaps a quarter of a
+mile, and this with the bottom-land and the lack of height in the walls
+near the river conveyed an impression of wide expanse when compared with
+the narrow limits in which we had for eight days been confined. The
+Green was here about 400 feet wide and was held in on the western side
+of the park by the Echo Cliff which was a vertical wall some 600 feet
+high composed of homogeneous sandstone, and consequently almost without
+a crack from top to bottom where its smooth expanse dropped below the
+surface of the water. It extended down river about three-fourths of a
+mile, the river doubling around its southern end.
+
+The next day after arriving here most of us did not feel like doing any
+climbing and remained around camp, mending clothes and other articles,
+adjusting things that had become deranged by our rough work in the last
+canyon, recording notes, and making entries in diaries. Prof. took
+observations for latitude and longitude to establish the position of the
+Yampa so that it could be properly placed on the map. The Major during
+an exploring trip from the eastward in 1868 had reached the Yampa
+Canyon, but he could not cross it. He now decided to go up with a boat
+as far as possible in three days to supplement his former observations
+as well as to study the canyon in general. He had estimated its length
+at thirty miles, and this has proved to be correct. The _Dean_ was
+unloaded, and with three days' rations the Major started with her in the
+morning manned by Jack, Beaman, Jones, and Andy. Of course they were all
+still tired from the strain of Lodore, and they were not enthusiastic
+about seeing the Yampa. In such work as was common through Lodore, it is
+as much the tension on the nerves, even though this is not realised at
+the time, as it is the strain on the muscles in transporting the cargoes
+and the boats, which makes one tired. I was entirely satisfied not to
+go with the Yampa party and I believe all the others left behind felt
+much the same.
+
+Steward with Clem, when the Yampa expedition had gone, started back over
+the cliffs for Alcove Brook to geologise, leaving Prof. busy with
+observation, Cap. plotting the topographical notes and making his map
+thereby, and me with no special duty at the time. Every man who wants to
+be efficient in the field must learn to cook. This was my opportunity as
+Andy was absent and the others had their special work on hand, so I
+turned my attention to the culinary realm. A few directions and an
+example from Cap. who was a veteran gave me the method and I succeeded
+as my first offering, in placing before my comrades some biscuits hot
+from the Dutch oven, which compared favourably with those of Andy
+himself. With the constant practice Andy by this time had become an
+expert. The day wore away and at evening I got supper with more biscuits
+of which I was proud, but Steward and Clem failed to come to partake of
+them as we expected. Darkness fell and still there was dead silence
+outside of our camp. Much concerned we then ate supper momentarily
+expecting to hear their voices, but they did not come. Something had
+happened, but we could not follow their trail till morning to find out
+what it was. At ten o'clock we gave them up for the night deeply
+troubled about them. I had been sitting alone by the fire keeping the
+coffee hot and listening, when suddenly I heard a crackling of the
+bushes between me and the river and in a second or two Clem, laughing as
+over a joke, came to the fire with the water running off him in streams.
+While I was trying to get an explanation Steward also appeared in the
+same condition. At first they would not tell what had occurred but
+finally they confessed on condition that I would keep the matter a
+secret. They had made a long hard climb and late in the afternoon had
+come to a place where Steward found it necessary to descend to the river
+in examining the strata. They intended to climb back, but when the work
+was done the sun had set and it was too late to venture up as they could
+not climb in the dark. Rather than stay there all night they made a raft
+of two little dead cedars and tying their shoes upon it, they waited for
+the moon to rise. This was very soon and they slipped into the current
+relying on the raft merely to keep their heads above water. They knew
+there were no rapids between them and camp but they did not properly
+estimate the velocity of the river and the eddies and whirlpools. They
+kept near the left wall so as not to be carried past camp and in this
+they made a great mistake for they were caught in a whirlpool caused by
+a projection, and the raft was wrenched from them while they were
+violently thrown around. Steward being a powerful swimmer succeeded
+after nearly going under for good in regaining the raft which Clem
+meanwhile had been losing and recovering quickly several times. He was
+not a good swimmer. After this whirlpool was passed they reached the
+locality of our camp with no further adventure. They were very desirous
+that the story be kept from the rest of the party but they had hardly
+finished telling me when Prof. came and insisted on knowing what had
+occurred. Their punishment for this indiscretion was the hard climb back
+again to where they had left a rifle and other things that must be
+recovered.
+
+A delightful episode of this camp was a row which several of us made up
+the Yampa in the moonlight. As far as we went the current was not swift
+and we were able to pull gently along under the great cliffs in shadows
+made luminous by the brilliancy of the moon. A song the Major was fond
+of singing, _Softly and Sweetly it Comes from Afar_, almost
+involuntarily, sprang from us all, though our great songster, Jack, was
+not with us. Jack had an extensive repertory, an excellent voice, and a
+hearty, exuberant spirit. He would sing _Write Me a Letter from Home_,
+_The Colleen Bawn_, _The Lone Starry Hours_, _Beautiful Isle of the
+Sea_, and many others in a way that brought tranquillity to our souls.
+We missed him on this evening but nevertheless our song sounded well,
+echoing from wall to wall, and we liked it. Somehow or other that night
+remains one of the fairest pictures I have ever seen.
+
+Another day I went with Steward down across the triangular bottom to the
+lower end of the park where we climbed out through the canyon of a
+little brook to a sandy and desolate plateau. Currant bushes laden with
+fruit abounded and there were tracks of grizzlies to be seen. Possibly
+some may have been lying in the dense underbrush, but if so they kept
+their lairs as these bears generally do unless directly disturbed.
+
+On the 30th of June Prof., Steward, and Cap. went for a climb. They
+proceeded to the lower end of the park by boat and through the little
+canyon that came in there, got out to the plateau where Steward and I
+had before been, but there they went farther. After a very hard climb
+they succeeded in reaching the crest where they had a broad view and
+could see nearly all of the next canyon with its rapids which we would
+have to pass through; the canyon the Major had called Whirlpool on his
+first trip. They could also see the Yampa River for twenty miles and
+discovered the _Dean_ coming back down that stream, their attention
+being attracted by a gunshot in that direction, which they knew could be
+only from our own men. In camp during the day I again experimented in
+the culinary department, and produced two dried-apple pies, one of which
+Clem and I ate with an indescribable zest, and the other we kept to
+astonish the absentees with when they should reach camp. I have since
+learned that my method of pie-making was original I soaked the dried
+apples till they were soft then made a crust which had plenty of bacon
+grease in it for shortening and put the apples with sugar between,
+baking the production in the Dutch oven.
+
+About five o'clock the Yampa explorers came. They were ragged, tired,
+and hungry having had nothing to eat all day, and not enough any day, as
+the Major had not taken sufficient supplies in his desire to make the
+boat light. They were all rather cross, the only time on the whole
+expedition that such a state existed, but when they had eaten and rested
+their genial spirits came back, they even liked my pie, and they told us
+about their struggle up the canyon.
+
+We were all rather sorry to pull away from this comfortable camp at the
+mouth of the Yampa on July 3d, but the rapids of Whirlpool were
+challenging and we had to go and meet them. At the foot of Echo Park the
+Green doubles directly back on itself for a mile as it turns Echo Rock,
+the narrow peninsula of sandstone 600 feet high. The canyon became
+suddenly very close and assumed a formidable appearance. We listened for
+the roar of a rapid but for some time nothing was heard. The splendour
+of the walls impressed us deeply rising 2000 feet, many coloured,
+carved, and terraced elaborately. Our admiration was interrupted by a
+suggestive roar approaching and suddenly a violent rapid appeared. There
+was ample room and we got below it by a let-down, that is by lowering
+the boats one at a time with their cargoes on board, along the margin,
+working in and out of the side currents. Then we had dinner while
+waiting for the _Canonita_ which had remained behind for pictures.
+
+A part of my work was to make a continuous outline sketch of the left
+wall for the use of the geologists and this I was able to do as we went
+along. I had a pocket on the bulkhead in front of my seat in which I
+kept a sole leather portfolio, which I could use quickly and replace in
+the waterproof pocket.
+
+The walls of the canyon became more flaring as soon as the rapid was
+passed at noon, but they lost none of their majesty. We now expected
+very bad river and whirlpools from the experience of the first party,
+but the river is never twice alike. Not only does its bottom shift, but
+every variation in stage of water brings new problems or does away with
+them entirely. It was an agreeable surprise to be able to run three
+rapids with ease by four o'clock, when we saw on some rocks two hundred
+feet above the stream a flock of mountain sheep. An immediate landing
+was made with fresh mutton in prospect. Unluckily our guns in
+anticipation of severe work had all been securely packed away, and it
+was some moments before they could be brought out. By that time the
+sheep had nimbly gone around a corner of the wall where a large side
+canyon was now discovered bringing in a fine creek. It was useless to
+follow the sheep though one or two made a brief trial, and camp was made
+in a cottonwood grove at the mouth of the creek. Cottonwoods fringed the
+stream as far as it could be seen from our position. Brush Creek we
+called it believing it to be the mouth of a stream in the back country
+known by that name. The next day, two or three miles up, a branch was
+found to come from the south, and as this was thought to be Brush Creek,
+the larger one was named after Cap., and "Bishop's Creek" was put on our
+map. Doubtless there are plenty of trout in this creek and in others we
+had passed, but we had no proper tackle for trout and besides seldom had
+time for fishing when at these places. Jack, when not too tired, fished
+in the Green and generally had good success. Our present locality would
+have been a rare place for a month or two's sojourn had we been
+sportsmen with time on our hands. Sheep, deer, and bear existed in
+abundance as well as smaller game, but we had to forget it though none
+of us cared about shooting for fun. Our minds were on other things.
+Often we went out leaving rifles behind as they were heavy in a climb.
+
+[Illustration: Whirlpool Canyon.
+
+Mouth of Bishop Creek--Fourth of July Camp.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+Scarcely had we settled ourselves in this beautiful camp when we
+discovered that we ourselves were the hunted, and by an enemy that we
+could not vanquish--ants. There was no place in the neighbourhood that
+was out of their range. The best I could do was to make my bed two feet
+from the nearest hill and let them have their way. Morning was hailed
+with unusual delight for this reason and also because it was the
+"glorious Fourth," a day that every American remembers wherever he may
+be. We fired several rounds as a salute, and the Major concluded to keep
+this camp till the next morning. To enable Andy to have a day off and a
+climb out with a party to the open, I agreed to run the cook outfit, and
+felt highly complimented that they were willing to trust me after the
+pie episode. I immediately resolved to try my skill again in that
+quarter and expected to astonish the camp. I succeeded. The bill of fare
+which I evolved was ham, dried-apple pie, dried apples stewed, canned
+peaches, sugar syrup, bread, coffee, and some candy from Gunther's in
+Chicago. The candy had been presented to me at Green River Station by
+some passing friends, and I had hidden it in my bag waiting for this
+grand occasion. Ham was quite as much of a luxury as candy, for we had
+started with but three or four, and only used them on special days. As
+for the canned peaches, they were the only ones we had. The supper was a
+memorable one; not a grumble was heard from anybody, indeed they all
+praised it, and the only drawback, from my point of view, was that the
+scouting party did not return early enough to taste it in its prime. The
+Major threatened to expel the member who had smuggled in the candy as
+all the men declared they would go no farther unless they could have a
+plate of it for desert at every meal!
+
+The next morning we were on the river early, glad to get away from the
+army of ants. The canyon walls ran along at about the same height as on
+the previous day, about 2400 feet, and while the river was swift and
+full of rapids everything seemed to favour us. Before halting for dinner
+we had run five rapids, three rather ugly, as well as letting down past
+one with lines. From where a stop was made for Andy's noonday
+operations, a flock of sheep was seen on the opposite side, and several
+went after them with no result but disappointment. When we started again
+we ran a rapid at once, then let down past the next, and followed that
+by running two more, the last the worst. The boats bumped occasionally
+on hidden rocks, but no harm was done them. The whole canyon was
+exceedingly beautiful, nevertheless we did not mourn when late in the
+afternoon, just after running the last rapid, the magnificent cliffs
+fell back and we saw more sky than at any time since leaving Brown's
+Park. On the right the rocks melted away into beautiful rainbow-coloured
+hills while on the left they remained steep, though retreating a mile or
+so from the water. The stretch of sky seemed enormous. Breathing
+appeared to be easier. The eye grows weary with the short range views,
+and yearns for space in which to roam.
+
+The valley we were now in was not long; about four miles in a straight
+line, with a width of two. In this space the river meanders nine miles,
+one detour being very long. It spreads also amongst a number of islands,
+and the numerous channels became shallow till our keels grated here and
+there. Then they concentrated once more and we floated along on waters
+deep and black and slow. The marvellous colouring in the surrounding
+landscape impressed us, and the Major was for a time uncertain whether
+to call this "Rainbow" or "Island" Park, the decision finally being
+given to the latter. Shortly before sunset our meanderings terminated at
+the foot of the valley where the river once more entered the rocks, in a
+gateway as abrupt, though not as imposing as that of Lodore. A fine
+grove of box-elders on the right just above this gate, offered an
+attractive camping place, and there we stopped.
+
+We were now in Utah again, having crossed the boundary somewhere in
+Whirlpool Canyon. The altitude was 4940 feet, showing a descent in
+Whirlpool Canyon of 140 feet in a distance of 14-1/4 miles. The next day
+I went with Beaman and Clem with a boat back to the foot of Whirlpool
+Canyon, in order that Beaman might get some views. It was a hard pull,
+and we discovered that what appears sluggish going down, is often the
+reverse to a boat going up. We could make headway only by keeping very
+close to the bank. It was supper-time when we again reached camp. The
+Major now announced that he intended to take the _Dean_ and go on ahead,
+without stopping anywhere, to the mouth of the Uinta River, leaving us
+to follow as we could in doing the work. Cap. was to be taken in my
+place because of his previous experience in the army and in the West.
+That evening all was made ready. By break of day the camp was astir,
+breakfast was disposed of as quickly as possible, the _Dean_ was manned,
+the Major went to his place on the middle cabin, they cast off and
+disappeared in the canyon gate. We then called this "Craggy Canyon," but
+later it was changed to Split Mountain.
+
+All of the others crossed the river to climb to the top of the cliffs
+for observations and for photographs. I was left alone to watch camp. I
+longed to experiment further in the cooking line, and discovering a bag
+of ground coffee leaning against the foot of a tree, I said to myself,
+"coffee cake." I had heard of it, I had eaten it, I would again surprise
+the boys. I had no eggs, no butter, no milk (condensed milk was unknown
+at that time), but I had flour, water, cream of tartar, saleratus,
+sugar, salt, and ground coffee. I thought these quite enough, and went
+at my task. The mixture I made I put in a small tin and baked in the
+Dutch oven. I was so much occupied with this interesting experiment that
+I forgot all about time and about having something substantial ready for
+the return of the hungry climbers, so when they did come about noon, as
+famished as coyotes and dead tired, all I could offer was _the_ cake,
+ever after famous on that trip, a brown, sugary solid, some six inches
+in diameter, two inches thick, and betraying its flavour everywhere by
+the coffee-grounds scattered lavishly through it. Andy gave it one brief
+sad look, and then went to work to get dinner. But they were such a rare
+lot of good fellows that they actually praised that cake and not only
+that, they ate it. The cake led to the discovery that the Major's party
+had left behind all their coffee, which was what I had used for
+flavouring, and they would have to content themselves with tea. From the
+heights our men had reached they could see, with a glass, the _Dean_
+working rapidly down the river. Next day another party went up to the
+same place, and I went along. The photographic outfit had been left
+there because rain the day before had spoiled the view, and we were to
+bring it down when more views had been taken. After a strong, steep
+climb we found ourselves on a peak or pinnacle about 3000 feet above the
+river, and therefore 7940 above sea-level.
+
+The view from this point was extraordinary. Far below gleamed the river
+cleaving the rocks at our feet, and visible for several miles in the
+canyon churning its way down, the rapids indicated by bars of white. One
+hardly knew which way to look. Crags about us projected into the canyon,
+and I was inspired to creep out upon a long finger of sandstone where I
+could sit astride as on a horse and comfortably peer down into the
+abyss. It was an absolutely safe place, but Beaman and Clem feared the
+crag might break off with me, and they compelled me to come back to
+relieve their minds. Seldom does one have such a chance to see below as
+well as I could there. The long, narrow mountain stretched off to the
+west, seeming not more than a half-mile wide, and split open for its
+whole length by the river, which has washed its canyon longitudinally
+through it. In all directions were mountains, canyons, and crags in
+bewildering profusion.
+
+When Beaman had ended his labours we started down the cliffs with his
+apparatus. This was the terror of the party. The camera in its strong
+box was a heavy load to carry up the rocks, but it was nothing to the
+chemical and plate-holder box, which in turn was a featherweight
+compared to the imitation hand-organ which served for a dark room. This
+dark box was the special sorrow of the expedition, as it had to be
+dragged up the heights from 500 to 3000 feet. With this machinery we
+reached camp pretty tired and glad to rest the remainder of the day,
+especially as Prof. said we would enter the new canyon the next morning.
+This was Sunday. A few minutes after starting we passed between
+perpendicular strata rising out of the water, and gradually bending
+above over to the horizontal, then breaking into crags. I never saw
+anything more like an artificial wall, so evenly were the rocky beds
+laid one against another. As we passed into the more broken portion a
+flock of sheep came into view high up on the crags on the right standing
+motionless evidently puzzled by the sound of our oars. We fired from the
+moving boats, but without result. Recovering from their surprise the
+sheep bounded lightly away. Our attention was required the next moment
+by a rapid which we ran--it was a small one--to find it followed by many
+thickly set with rocks. At the first we let down by line for half a
+mile, when we had dinner. Then we let down by line another half-mile,
+and ran half a mile more in easy water to the head of a very bad place,
+one of the worst we had seen, where we made another let-down. There was
+never any difficulty about landing when we desired, which made the work
+comparatively easy. The _Canonita_ got some hard knocks and had to be
+repaired at one place before we could go on. The total distance made was
+only about three miles, but we could have gone farther had we not
+stopped for investigations, and to mend the boat.
+
+[Illustration: Split Mountain Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871]
+
+Wet and weary we welcomed the order to camp, about five o'clock, and
+made ourselves comfortable with dry clothes from our rubber bags, the
+wet ones being spread, as was our custom, on rocks to dry. At high water
+many of these rapids would be rendered much easier. A quarter of a mile
+below camp was a small cave thirty or forty feet deep, very picturesque,
+with the river dashing into it, and in the water in front a rock twenty
+feet high, which had dropped down from somewhere above. Beaman got a
+very good picture here.
+
+The river was falling fast and as the water lowered rocks more and more
+showed themselves in the rapids. Low water increases the labour but it
+increases the safety as well, for the velocity is less and the boats are
+more easily controlled.
+
+The next day, July 10th, we did not start on down the river till one
+o'clock. Then we lowered the boats past two rapids and ran six, of which
+four were very bad on account of numerous rocks. Occasionally a boat
+would strike but none was injured seriously. The sun was directly in our
+faces blinding us, and a high wind was blowing which added to the
+difficulties. The walls were often vertical for a thousand feet or more,
+and the river was wide and shallow. There was a scorching hot sun, the
+temperature being near 100 in the shade. The rocks and even the sand
+became so hot that they were uncomfortable to the touch, but there was
+one advantage in this dry heat--our clothes were soon dry. During this
+day we landed on the wrong side to examine one rapid and had to run it
+from there. Both boats got through with only slight raps and we went on
+a short distance to camp at the head of a bad descent which was not
+runable at this stage of water. In the morning a line-portage was easily
+accomplished and we ran down a short distance farther when we stopped
+for dinner on a sandy beach. The sand scorched my feet for I had been
+without shoes for several days. All our shoes were giving out and mine
+were the first to go completely. Fortunately Beaman had an extra pair of
+army brogans which he lent me till we should reach Uinta. I had ordered,
+by advice in Chicago, two pairs of fine shoes at thirteen dollars a
+pair, but I now discovered that I ought to have bought shoes at two
+dollars instead for such work as this. We hoped to be able to get some
+new shoes from Salt Lake when we reached the Uinta River and again would
+be in touch, even though a very long touch, with the outside world. Our
+soap was all gone too, and supplies of every kind were getting low.
+
+In the afternoon three more rapids were run and at a fourth we were
+compelled to make a line-portage. Then we saw the strata begin to curve
+over and down and finally drop into the river just as they had come out
+of it at the beginning. The crevices were filled with ferns and in
+places clear water was dripping from these little green cliff gardens.
+As we ran along the foot of the left wall we saw a peculiar and
+beautiful spring which had carved out a dainty basin where a multitude
+of ferns and kindred plants were thriving, a silvery rill dropping down
+from them. We emerged from the canyon as abruptly as we had entered it,
+and saw a broad valley stretching before us. Running a quarter of a mile
+on a smooth river camp was made on the right on a level floor carpeted
+with grass and surrounded by thickets of oak. We were in the beginning
+of what is now called Wonsits (Antelope) Valley, about eighty-seven
+miles long, the only large valley on the river above the end of Black
+Canyon. Split-Mountain Canyon eight miles long has one of the greatest
+declivities on the river, coming next to Lodore, though it differs from
+the latter in that the descent is more continuous and not broken into
+short, violent stretches. There would be plain sailing now to the head
+of the Canyon of Desolation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+     A Lookout for Redskins--The River a Sluggard--A
+     Gunshot!--Someone Comes!--The Tale of a Mysterious Light--How,
+     How! from Douglas Boy--At the Mouth of the Uinta--A Tramp to
+     Goblin City and a Trip down White River on a Raft--A
+     Waggon-load of Supplies from Salt Lake by Way of Uinta
+     Agency--The Major Goes Out to Find a Way In.
+
+
+Our thoughts now were mainly directed to pushing on to the mouth of the
+Uinta River and picking up our advance party, which by this time must
+have gotten in touch with the Uinta Agency. We felt gratified that
+another of the long line of canyons was a thing of the past and that for
+a brief time we would have easy water, so far as rapids were concerned.
+We were reminded that this was Indian country by discovering on a smooth
+face of rock wall not far from camp a lot of drawings pecked into the
+stone. They represented figures of natives, bison, elk, deer, mountain
+sheep, grizzly tracks, etc., and as they were the first pictographs I
+had ever seen I was particularly interested. The bison pictures
+indicated the former presence here in this valley of that fine animal.
+Numbers indeed once ranged these hills and valleys, but they had all
+disappeared many years before our voyage. We were on the lookout for
+Indians. As long as we were encompassed by the mighty walls of the
+canyons there was little probability of our meeting with any of the
+original people of this soil, but the valley now opening wide before us
+was their favourite haunt. Two divisions of Utes roamed the surrounding
+region. On the west it was the Uinta Utes who, we knew, were peaceable,
+and on the east it was the White River Utes, whose status as to peace
+and war was at that period somewhat vague and uncertain. We expected no
+trouble with any of them, yet the possibility of running at any moment
+on a band gave added interest and colour to the voyage. This was
+intensified by the feeling that we had suddenly been thrown out of
+doors, unprotected, as the huge, dominating precipices broke so suddenly
+back on both sides, leaving us hardly a rock with which, in case of
+necessity, to emulate the example of Roderick Dhu. Probably if we had
+travelled here on horseback in the open there would not have been this
+sense of having left our fortification behind.
+
+July 12th the boats proceeded down a river so sluggish that the term
+"down" seemed a misnomer, and we actually had to row; had to work at the
+oars to make the boats go; these same boats which so recently had
+behaved like wild horses. This was not to our taste at all, the weather
+being extremely hot. But there was no help for it. The boats fairly went
+to sleep and we tugged away at their dull, heavy weight, putting the
+miles behind and recalling the express-train manner of their recent
+action. On each side of us there were occasional groves of cottonwoods
+and wide bottoms bounded by low hills. After about ten miles of steady
+pulling we discovered that we were only 2-1/2 miles from our starting
+place in a straight line. Here there was a superb cottonwood grove,
+massive trees with huge trunks like oaks, on the left. We found the
+remains of a camp-fire and decided that our advance party had come this
+far from Island Park the first day. They had accomplished a phenomenal
+run, but it showed what might be done with light boats and a full crew.
+As Steward desired to make some geological examinations at this point,
+Prof. announced that we would stay till morning. Another cause for
+stopping was a gale which blew with great force, making rowing
+exceedingly hard work, and it was hard enough anyhow with no good
+current to help.
+
+Steward wished to go across the river, and I went with him. We tramped
+with our Winchesters on our shoulders for several hours, examining rocks
+and fossils. On our return we found that Andy was occupied in boiling a
+goose which Prof.'s sure aim had bestowed on the larder, and we had the
+bird for supper. If it was not one of the fossils it certainly was one
+of the "oldest inhabitants," which are found in every locality, and
+though a steady diet of bacon enthused us with an ambition to masticate
+this noble morsel, it had to be relegated to the impossibilities. We had
+a good deal of entertainment out of it, and while so engaged every ear
+caught the sound of a faint, distant gunshot. This was proof that we
+were no longer alone, and the question was, "How many Indians are
+there?" We simply waited developments. Night came on and the fierce wind
+died away completely as the sun went down. We gave no more thought to
+the shot, but all went to bed without even leaving a watch, so confident
+was Prof. that there was no enemy, and no danger of a surprise. He was
+always "level-headed" and never went off on a tangent doing wild or
+unwarranted things. He was a man of unusually sound judgment.
+
+In the absence of Cap. the duty of reading barometer had fallen to me,
+and sometimes, when waiting for the hour to arrive, I had to sit alone
+for a time when the others already had turned in. It was that way on
+this night, and I waited with some impatience for nine o'clock to come.
+For the purpose of reading the scale we used a small bull's-eye lantern
+belonging to a transit instrument, and it threw out a long beam of
+light. I entertained myself by flashing this beam of light in various
+directions to the distress of one member lying near not asleep, who was
+somewhat nervous as to the character of the Indians responsible for the
+shot.
+
+"Confound it," he growled, "you'll have the whole Ute tribe down on us!
+You know they are not far off!"
+
+Of course I desisted in my "signalling," but Prof., not yet asleep,
+spoke up saying he did not believe any Indians would bother us.
+Finishing the observations I put out the lantern, and settled in my
+blankets. At that instant there was the flash of a light through the
+trees and then it glowed steadily for a moment and went out. My nervous
+neighbour saw it too. "There," he cried, "an answer to your confounded
+signal!" Several saw it. "The evening star setting beyond the hill,"
+they declared, derisively, but we two maintained that it was nothing
+less than a light near by. Then sleep ruled the camp. In the middle of
+the night there was a sudden terrific cracking, rending, and crashing,
+starting all to their feet except Clem, who was not wakened by it. What
+had happened? We perceived in a second. One of the enormous limbs,
+weakened by the wind, had broken off and dropped to the ground in the
+middle of the camp. Luckily no one was under it and no harm was done,
+but for a moment, in connection with the light episode and the gunshot,
+it gave us a shock. Every one laughed, and soon the camp was still
+again. The sun was well up before we awoke. Immediately the discussion
+of the strange light came up, and it formed a lively and amusing topic,
+not only then, but ever after for months. Breakfast became a stirring
+debating scene, when plump into the midst of our hilarity, as if to
+emphasise the declarations of the nervous member, there came a sharp
+call from beyond a line of bushes. Almost on the instant appeared an
+Indian mounted on a dark bay horse trotting towards us exclaiming, "How,
+how!" and holding out his hand in token of friendship. His long black
+hair hung behind in two tails braided with red and black cotton cloth.
+The scalp at the part was painted vermilion, and around each eye was a
+ring of the same bright colour. His shirt was of the kind called
+hickory, and his leggins were of red woollen stuff. Altogether he was a
+good looking specimen of his race, and about twenty-five years old. How
+many more might be behind we could not tell.
+
+He dismounted and Clem grasped him warmly by the hand, exclaiming with
+his most cordial smile, "Well, how are all the folks at home?" to which
+the visitor of course made no answer. Not one of our party understood
+Ute, and I had never seen a "wild" Indian at such close quarters before.
+The man motioned for something to eat, so Andy gave him a plate of
+breakfast, but there was a twinkle in Andy's blue eye, for the breakfast
+consisted largely of the rejected goose. When the red man's vision
+rested on the goose he gave a grunt of disgust and made no effort to
+even taste it, though he relished the other things and a cup of hot
+coffee. I have noticed that all Indians are very fond of coffee. We
+gleaned that he was alone with his squaw, and had a wickiup down the
+river a short distance. Doubtless he had examined our camp the previous
+night. The barometer hanging to a tree-branch caught his eye, and I
+tried by signs to explain it to him with no success except to convulse
+the whole crew. At length with the exclamation "Squaw," he rode away and
+came back with his fair partner riding behind. By this time we were
+packed up and we pushed off, the pair watching us with deep interest.
+About a mile and a half below by the river, we came on them again at
+their camp, they having easily beaten us by a short cut. Here was his
+wickiup made of a few cottonwood boughs, and in front of it the ashes of
+a fire. Our side immediately claimed this was the light we had seen, and
+the discussion of this point continued until another night put an end to
+it. In the bough shelter sat the blooming bride of "Douglas Boy," as he
+called himself, Douglas being the chief of the White River Utes. She was
+dressed well in a neat suit of navy-blue flannel and was lavishly
+adorned with ornaments. Her dress was bound at the waist by a heavy belt
+of leather, four inches wide, profusely decorated with brass discs and
+fastened by a brass buckle. She was young and quite pretty, and they
+were a handsome couple. He intimated that he would be grateful to be
+ferried across the river, here almost half a mile wide, so his blankets,
+saddles, and whole paraphernalia were piled on the boats, while the two
+horses were driven into the water and pelted with stones till they made
+up their minds that the farther shore offered greater hospitality, and
+swam for it. Then the squaw and the brave were taken on separate boats.
+She hesitated long before finally trusting herself, and was exceedingly
+coy about it. She had probably never seen a boat before. At last,
+overcoming her fear she stepped tremblingly on board and in a few
+minutes we had them landed on the other side, where we said farewell and
+went on.
+
+In the afternoon we discovered a number of natives on the right bank and
+landed to see what they were. Nothing more terrible than several badly
+frightened squaws and children occupied the place, the men being away.
+We thought this call on the ladies would suffice, and presenting them
+with a quantity of tobacco for their absent lords, we pulled away,
+leaving them still almost paralysed with fright and astonishment at our
+sudden and unexpected appearance and disappearance. The valley was now
+very wide, and the river spread to a great width also, giving conditions
+totally different from any we had found above. Rowing was real labour
+here, but Prof. was eager to arrive at the mouth of the Uinta the next
+day so it was row, row, with a strong, steady, monotonous stroke, hour
+after hour till we had put twenty miles behind when we stopped for the
+night. Next morning the same programme was continued from seven o'clock
+on, with a brief halt for dinner. About four a storm came up, compelling
+us to wait an hour, when on we pulled, with a temperature something like
+100 deg.F., in the shade, till sunset, when about forty miles from our
+starting point, we arrived at the mouth of a river on the right, which
+we thought must be the Uinta. But finally as there was no sign of our
+advance party we concluded there must be a mistake. There was so little
+current in the tributary we thought it might be something besides a
+river, the mouth of a lake perhaps, and that the Uinta was farther on.
+About a mile down in the dim light there appeared to be a river mouth,
+but on reaching the place there was nothing of the kind. Several signal
+shots were fired. They fell dead on the dull stillness of the night
+which was dropping fast upon us. We took to the oars once more and
+pulled down nearly another mile till the dark grew so thick it was not
+prudent to proceed, and Prof. ordered a landing on the left where we
+made a hasty cup of coffee to refresh the inner man, and turned in, much
+puzzled and troubled by the absence of any kind of a signal from the
+advance party. Some one suggested that they had all been killed, but
+Prof. met this with scornful ridicule and went to sleep. When daylight
+came a river was discovered less than half a mile below our camp coming
+in from the east. Prof. knew this to be White River from the map, the
+mouths of White and Uinta rivers having long been quite accurately
+established. The mouth of the Uinta must therefore be where we had been
+the night before, and Prof. walked back till he came opposite to it. We
+then got the boats back by rowing and towing, and landed on the right or
+west bank about a quarter of a mile above the mouth of the Uinta, where
+the old time crossing had been, and which we had passed unnoticed in the
+evening light. Here were the ashes of a camp-fire, and after much
+searching a tin can was found with a note in it from the Major, saying
+they had all gone out to the Agency, and that we were to wait here.
+
+A large cottonwood tree stood on the low bank where travellers before
+had camped, not in going up and down the river, but on their way across
+country. It was a very old tree and its bark presented many marks,
+names, and dates, and I regret now that I did not copy them for
+reference. This was one of the known crossings for a long period, in
+fact, it was through this valley that Escalante, the first white man to
+cross Green River, travelled in 1776, and it is possible that he may
+have camped under this very tree.[10] We settled there to wait, harassed
+by multitudes of voracious mosquitoes. All day we remained, expecting
+the absentees, but the sun went down and still there was no word. About
+seven o'clock while we were eating supper, some shots and yells from the
+west took us to the top of the bank, and we saw two horsemen galloping
+towards our position. We soon made them out to be Cap. and Jones. They
+brought a large mail, a portion of it the same we had tried to stop at
+Salt Lake, and have returned to us at the Gate of Lodore, and they
+reported that the Major had gone out to Salt Lake. We built up a good
+fire, and by its light everyone was quickly lost in letters from home.
+
+The next morning we got the _Dean_ out of the bushes where she had been
+well hidden, and moved across the river with the whole outfit, to a
+place in front of a half-finished log cabin called Fort Robideau, after
+the trapper of that name, who years before had roamed this country. A
+road crossing here from Golden to Provo, 413 miles long, was laid out in
+1861 by Berthoud and Bridger for the Overland Stage Company, but the
+Civil War and the building of the Union Pacific had prevented its
+realisation.[11] The cabin had no windows or doors, but for summer that
+was not a defect. The mud roof was intact, and we used the cabin for
+headquarters, though we preferred to sleep out on the ground. Back of
+the building a wide level plain spread away and deer and antelope ranged
+there in large numbers. Any short walk would start up antelope, but we
+had other matters on our mind, and made no special effort to shoot any.
+It would have been easy for a trained hunter to get all he wanted, or
+even for one of us to do it had we dropped other things and given our
+minds to the work.
+
+The following Monday, July 17th, Prof. and Beaman left for the Agency,
+and on Friday of the same week Jack returned accompanied by a man named
+Basor, driving a large four-horse waggon loaded with supplies for us. We
+were in need of them. We had been completely out of soap for two weeks
+or more, and a box of that essential article was broken open the first
+thing. Jack also brought from the Agency garden some lettuce, new
+potatoes, and turnips. Not having tasted any vegetables for two months,
+these were a great treat. The same afternoon Basor went away taking
+letters from us with him to be sent to Salt Lake. One of the special
+things he had brought was three long, narrow pieces of flat iron made by
+the Agency blacksmith from old wagon tires, for the keels of the boats,
+which were badly worn by scraping on shoals and rocks in our portaging
+and letting-down operations.
+
+On the next Monday, Cap., Steward, and I with five days' rations on our
+backs as well as blankets enough for the warm nights, and our rifles,
+started on a journey up White River to a place called Goblin City by one
+of the earlier explorers who had crossed the valley. As we were going
+through some heavy willows about noon, I discovered standing still
+before me and not a hundred feet away the finest stag I have ever seen.
+He stood like a Landseer picture, head erect and alert with huge
+branching antlers poised in the air. He was listening to my companions
+who were a little distance from me. My gun being tied to my pack for
+easy travelling I could not quickly extricate it and before I could
+bring it to bear he dashed through the willows and a sensible shot was
+impossible. I admired him so much that I was rather glad I could not
+shoot. We came across a great deal of game, antelope, mountain sheep,
+and deer but we never seemed to have the opportunity to stalk it
+properly. When we finally came in sight of the Goblin City it was six
+o'clock of the second day and we had travelled steadily. At the farther
+end of a level little valley surrounded by cliffs were numerous small
+buttes and square rocks, almost in rows and about the size of small
+buildings, so that there was a striking suggestion of a town. We slept
+near the river and spent the next morning in examining the locality.
+When we had completed the observations I got dinner while Steward and
+Cap. with our gun-straps and some buckskin strings made a raft from
+small cottonwood logs we found on the bank. Upon this weaving affair we
+all three embarked to descend the river in order to meander the course
+as well as to save our legs. Steward and Cap. stood at either end with
+long poles while I sat in the middle and took the compass sights as we
+passed along. There were some sharp little rapids full of rocks, and
+sometimes it was all we could do to stick on, for the raft being
+flexible naturally would straddle a big rock and take the form of a very
+steep house roof. The banks were thick with currant bushes loaded with
+ripe fruit and we kept a supply of branches on the raft to pick off the
+currants as we went along. Everywhere there were many fresh tracks of
+bears for they are fond of this fruit, but if they saw us we failed to
+see them, though some of the tracks appeared to have been made not more
+than a few minutes before. As we drifted between high banks there was a
+violent crashing of bushes and a beautiful fawn, evidently pursued by
+bear or wolf, plunged through and dropped into the stream. Cap. took a
+shot at it from the wobbling raft but of course failed. The fawn landed
+at the bottom of a mud wall ten feet high and for a moment seemed dazed,
+but by some herculean effort it gained the plain and sped away to
+freedom and we were not at all sorry to see it go. All the next day we
+kept on down White River on the raft and at seven o'clock were still
+five miles from camp in a direct course and no food left. As the stream
+meandered a great deal we parted from it and went to headquarters on
+foot.
+
+We now expected hourly the return of Prof. and the Major, but another
+day passed without them or any message. The next day was Saturday and it
+faded away also without any event. Just after supper there was a hail
+from the west bank and on going over with a boat we found there Prof.,
+Beaman, and an Indian. The Major had not come because Captain Dodds,
+commanding the party which was charged with the taking of rations for us
+to the mouth of the Dirty Devil River, our next supply station, had sent
+word that he could not find a way through the unknown region. The Major
+concluded that he would have to go and try it himself. His plan was for
+us to go on and he would join us again August 25th at Gunnison Crossing,
+at the end of the Canyon of Desolation, the next canyon of the series.
+Gunnison Crossing was an established point with a trail leading there
+from east and west. We were to wait for him till September 3d in that
+neighbourhood, and if he failed to arrive we were to go on and get
+through as best we could on the rations remaining. Our present
+intercourse with the world was now terminated by our sending the Indian
+who had come with Prof. back to the Agency with our mail. Prof. had
+brought in some fresh beef which was a great treat but there was little
+of it and after a couple of meals we were on bacon and beans again. Had
+an Indian from the Agency been hired for the purpose of hunting, we
+might have had plenty of venison during our stop here. Sunday our old
+acquaintance Douglas Boy came to camp and was employed to make moccasins
+to save our shoes. Some new shoes had been sent in to us, but for
+climbing and walking the rawhide-soled moccasins were excellent and
+would save our shoes for river work. The Indian had a beaded cap pouch
+which I secured from him for some vermilion and he was ready to trade,
+but the next day Jack caught him trying to steal our buckskin by hiding
+it in his blankets which rudely sundered our business relations. Jack
+himself acquired the art of moccasin-making and he made each of us an
+excellent pair in his spare time. Steward and I went back up White River
+to finish our work but the raft timbers were gone and we could find no
+others, so we had to do what we could on foot. When we returned I
+discovered some ginger among the supplies and thinking it time for
+variety in our bill of fare, and it being Cap.'s birthday, I made a
+large ginger-cake which was voted prime. We ate half of it at one
+sitting with an accompaniment of lime-juice "lemonade."
+
+At the Agency Prof. found out that Douglas Boy had eloped from the White
+River country with his squaw, who was betrothed to another, and when we
+first met him he was engaged in eluding pursuit. According to Ute law if
+he could avoid capture for a certain time he would be free to return
+without molestation to his village. Beaman photographed him and a number
+of the Uintas under the direction of the Major, who wished to secure all
+the information possible about the natives, their language, customs, and
+costumes. We now spent several days arranging our new supplies in the
+rubber sacks, putting the iron strips on the boat-keels, and doing what
+final repairing was necessary. The topographers plotted the map work,
+and all finished up their necessary notes and data. By the afternoon of
+Friday, August 4th, all was in readiness for continuing the voyage. We
+had now descended 1450 feet from our starting point towards sea-level
+and we knew that the next canyon would add considerably to these
+figures.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 10: Two days after crossing the San Clemente, as he called
+White River, Escalante crossed the Rio San Buenaventura (Green River)
+somewhere above the mouth of White River. Here were six large "black
+poplars," on one of which they left an inscription. After resting two
+days they went south-west along the Buenaventura, ten leagues, and from
+a hill saw the junction of the San Clemente. He evidently went very near
+the mouth of the Uinta, and then struck westward. The Uinta he called
+Rio de San Cosme.]
+
+[Footnote 11: A regiment of California volunteers marched this way from
+Salt Lake on the way to Denver during the Civil War.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+     On to Battle--A Concert Repertory--Good-bye to Douglas
+     Boy--The Busy, Busy Beaver--In the Embrace of the Rocks Once
+     More--A Relic of the Cliff-Dwellers--Low Water and Hard
+     Work--A Canyon of Desolation--Log-cabin Cliff--Rapids and
+     Rapids and Rapids--A Horse, Whose Horse?--Through Gray Canyon
+     to the Rendezvous.
+
+
+We were up early on the morning of August 5th prepared to leave Camp
+32. Prof. took a lunar observation, and at eight we entered the boats
+and turned our backs on "Fort" Robideau, the only house on or near the
+whole river at that time from the mouth of the Virgin, to our Camp No. 1
+where we had the snow-storm, a distance of about one thousand miles. We
+had vanquished many rapids and now we pushed on ready for our next
+battle with the river in the Canyon of Desolation, just before us. The
+order of going was slightly changed in the absence of the Major, for
+Prof., being now in sole command, went ahead with his boat, the _Nellie
+Powell_, while ours, the _Emma Dean_, for the time being took second
+place. The river for a brief distance ran smoothly with only enough
+current, about two miles an hour, to help us along without hard rowing.
+I missed the Major while we were on the water, probably more than any
+one else in the party, for as we were facing each other the whole time
+and were not separated enough to interfere with conversation we had
+frequent talks. He sometimes described incidents which happened on the
+first voyage, or told me something about the men of that famous and
+unrivalled journey. Besides this he was very apt to sing, especially
+where the river was not turbulent and the outlook was tranquil, some
+favourite song, and these songs greatly interested me. While he had no
+fine voice he sang from his heart, and the songs were those he had
+learned at home singing with his brothers and sisters. One of these was
+an old-fashioned hymn, _The Home of the Soul_, or rather the first two
+verses of it. These verses were among his special favourites.[12]
+
+    "I will sing you a song of that beautiful land,
+      The far away home of the soul,
+    Where no storms ever beat on the glittering strand,
+      While the years of eternity roll,
+      While the years of eternity roll;
+    Where no storms ever beat on the glittering strand
+      While the years of eternity roll.
+
+    "Oh! that home of the soul in my visions and dreams,
+      Its bright jasper walls I can see;
+    Till I fancy but thinly the veil intervenes
+      Between the fair city and me
+          Till I fancy, etc."
+
+Another was a pretty four-part song, _The Laugh of a Child_, of which he
+sang the air. The words ran:
+
+    "I love it, I love it, the laugh of a child.
+    Now rippling, now gentle, now merry and wild.
+    It rings through the air with an innocent gush,
+    Like the trill of a bird at the twilight's soft hush,
+    It floats on the breeze like the tones of a bell,
+    Or music that dwells in the heart of a shell.
+    Oh, the laugh of a child is so wild and so free
+    'T is the merriest sound in the world to me."
+
+Still another of which he sang the English words often was the
+well-known air from _Figaro_. I give a few bars:
+
+[Illustration:
+
+_NON PIU ANDRAI_--PLAY NO MORE.
+Air. Figaro.
+
+    Non piu andrai, far-fal-lo-ne a-mo-ro-so,
+    Not-te gior-no d'in-tor-no gi-ran-do;
+    Del-le bel-le tur-ban-do il ri-po-so,
+    Nar-ci-set-to, A-don-ci-no d'a-mor!
+    Del-le bel-le tur-ban-do il ri-po-so,
+    Nar-ci-set-to, A-don-ci-no d'a-mor!
+
+    Play no more, boy, the part of a lov-er,
+    Nor a-bout beau-ty fool-ish-ly hov-er;
+    In the wars you'll more pleasure dis-cov-er,
+    When your heart beats to glo-ry and fame!
+    In the wars you'll more pleasure dis-cov-er,
+    When your heart beats to glo-ry and fame!]
+
+At times he imitated a certain pathetic yet comical old woman he had
+heard singing at some camp-meeting, "The dear blessed Bible, the
+Fam-i-ly Bible," etc. He told me one day that this fondness for singing,
+especially amid extremely unpromising or gloomy circumstances, had on
+more than one occasion led the men of the first expedition to suspect
+his sanity. When he was singing, I could see that frequently he was
+really not thinking about his song at all, but of something quite
+foreign to it, and the singing was a mere accompaniment. Our party as a
+whole commanded an extensive repertory of song for an exploring
+expedition and while most of the voices were somewhat below concert
+requirement, there was no one to object, and one of us, Jack, did have
+an excellent voice. A song often heard was, _Shells of Ocean_ and also
+that one most appropriate, _What Are the Wild Waves Saying?_ Then there
+was _If I Had but a Thousand a Year, Gaffer Green_, and of course,
+_Annie Laurie_. Never was there an American or an English expedition to
+anywhere that did not have that song, as well as _Way Down upon the
+Suwanee River_. In addition to all these and the ones previously
+mentioned of which
+
+    "Oh, the lone starry hours give me Love
+    When still is the beautiful night,"
+
+was a special favourite, Jack's individual repertory contained an
+exhaustless number, both sad and gay. There were _Carry me Back to Old
+Tennessee_, _The Sailor's Grave_, _Aura Lee_, with her golden hair, who
+brought sunshine and swallows indiscriminately to each locality which
+she graced with the said golden hair, and _Come where my Love Lies
+Dreaming_, _Seeing Nellie Home_, and scores or at least dozens that I
+fail to recall.
+
+But while we had a great store of songs we were deficient to the last
+degree in musical instruments, the one solitary example being an humble
+mouth-organ which in a moment of weakness I had thrown in with my
+outfit. We just escaped having a flute. Frank, who left us on the 10th
+of June, possessed one, and when he was preparing to go Steward
+negotiated for this instrument. He gave Cap. his revolver to trade for
+it, considering the flute more desirable property for the expedition.
+Cap., being an old soldier, concluded to fire at a mark before letting
+the revolver pass forever from our possession. Presently there was an
+explosion which demolished the pistol and all our prospects of acquiring
+the musical treasure at one and the same moment. Possibly Fortune was
+kinder to us than we dreamed. The mouth-organ then remained the sole
+music machine in all that immense area. I did not feel equal to the
+position of organist but Steward boldly took up the study, and practised
+so faithfully that he became a real virtuoso.
+
+As a boy in New York Jack, though not a Hibernian himself, had
+associated closely with descendants of the Shamrock Isle, and he could
+speak with a fine emerald brogue. A refrain of one of his songs in this
+line was: "And if the rocks, they don't sthop us, We will cross to
+Killiloo, whacky-whay!" This sounded our situation exactly, and it
+became a regular accompaniment to the roaring of the rapids. Jack had
+many times followed in the wake of the Thirteen Eagles fire company, one
+of the bright jewels with a green setting, of the old volunteer service.
+The foreman, fitting the rest of the company, was Irish too, and his
+stentorian shout through the trumpet "Tirtaan Aigles, dis wai!" never
+failed to rise above the din, and when the joyful cry smote the ears of
+the gallant "Tirtaan," the rocks nor the ruts nor the crowds nor
+anything could stop them; through thick and through thin they went to
+the front, for there was rivalry in those days and when the Aigles time
+after time got first water on, they won triumphs which we of this
+mercenary epoch cannot understand. The Aigles were in for glory, nothing
+else. So when we heard the roar of a rapid and sniffed the mist in the
+air, "Tirtaan Aigles dis wai," was our slogan.
+
+Where the river now ran smoothly, as it did for a considerable distance
+below the Robideau crossing we could drift with the slow current and
+enjoy the study of the surroundings, the boats requiring no attention.
+Passing the mouths of the Uinta and the White, both rivers entering very
+quietly through a level valley, we pulled gently along watching the
+banks for something new. When we had thus gone a couple of miles we
+discovered our first acquaintance of this valley, Douglas Boy, encamped
+on the right with his runaway bride. They had a snug and secluded
+hiding-place protected by the river and some low cliffs. We landed to
+pay our parting call. Both had their faces completely smeared with the
+bright vermilion obtained by trade from us, and they presented in our
+eyes a ludicrous appearance. They had recently killed a fat deer and
+seemed very happy. Prof. exchanged some sugar for enough venison for our
+dinner and we said farewell to them, the first as well as the last human
+beings we had met with in this valley. Clem, as usual, gave them various
+messages for the "folks at home" and assured them with gracious smiles,
+that they "would ever be the subject of his most distinguished
+consideration." They smiled after us and we were soon beyond their
+vision. Presently low cliffs, 100 to 150 feet began to show themselves,
+on one side or the other, and the wide valley vanished. The great canyon
+below was reaching out for us. There were numerous islands covered with
+immense accumulations of driftwood or with growing cottonwoods where
+high enough. Hundreds of beaver swam about. Occasionally a shot from the
+boats would kill or wound one, but it was next to impossible to secure
+any as they seemed to sink immediately to the bottom and we gave up
+trying as long as they were in deep water. The stream being so tranquil
+reading poetry was more to our taste than hunting the beaver, and Prof.
+read aloud from Emerson as we slowly advanced upon the enemy.
+
+After about nine miles of this sort of thing we stopped for dinner in a
+pretty cottonwood grove at the foot of a cliff on the right with beaver
+swimming around as if they did not know what a human being was. When our
+venison had been disposed of the boats were shoved out into the river
+again and we continued our approach to the canyon. The surrounding
+region became a desolate waste; a broken desert plateau elevated above
+us about two hundred feet. Some deer seen on an island caused us to land
+and try to get a good shot at one, but we failed to get near enough for
+success and they quickly disappeared. The ground was too difficult for
+pursuit. After some seventeen miles, camp for the night was made in
+another grove of rather small cottonwoods at 5.30. We were on a large
+island with the surrounding waters thick with beaver busy every moment
+though their great work is done at night. Many trees felled, some of
+them of a considerable diameter, attested the skill and energy of these
+animals as woodchoppers. Cap. tried to get one so that we could eat it,
+but though he killed several he failed to reach them before they sank,
+and gave it up.
+
+As we looked around we saw that almost imperceptibly we had entered the
+new canyon and at this camp (33) we were fairly within the embrace of
+its rugged cliffs which, devoid of all vegetation, rose up four hundred
+feet, sombre in colour, but picturesque from a tendency to columnar
+weathering that imparted to them a Gothic character suggestive of
+cathedrals, castles, and turrets. The next day was Sunday and as Beaman
+felt sick and we were not in a hurry, no advance was made but instead
+Prof. accompanied by Steward, Cap., and Jones climbed out for notes and
+observations. They easily reached the top by means of a small gulch.
+They got back early, reporting an increasing desolation in the country
+on both sides as far as they could see. They also saw two graves of
+great age, covered by stones. In the afternoon Prof. entertained us by
+reading aloud from Scott and so the day passed and night fell. Then the
+beavers became more active and worked and splashed around camp
+incessantly. They kept it up all through the dark hours as is their
+habit, but only Steward was disturbed by it. This would have been an
+excellent opportunity to learn something about their ways, but for my
+part I did not then even think of it.
+
+By 7.30 in the morning of August 7th we were again on our way towards
+the depths ahead, between walls of rapidly increasing altitude showing
+that we were cutting into some great rock structure. Here and there we
+came to shoals that compelled us to get overboard and wade alongside
+lifting the boats at times. As these shoals had the peculiarity of
+beginning gradually and ending very abruptly we got some unexpected
+plunge baths during this kind of progression. But the air was hot, the
+thermometer being about 90 deg. F., and being soaked through was not
+uncomfortable. At one place Prof. succeeded in shooting a beaver which
+was near the bank and it was secured before it could get to its hole,
+being badly wounded. Steward caught it around the middle from behind and
+threw it into the boat--he had jumped into the water--and there it was
+finished with an oar. It measured three feet from tip to tip. We had
+heard a good deal about beaver as food and would now have a chance to
+try it. About eleven o'clock, we stopped for examinations and for dinner
+on the right but, of course, could not yet cook the beaver. Prof.,
+Steward, and Cap. climbed to the top of a butte 1050 feet above the
+river upon which they found a small monument left there by the Major on
+the former trip. Though this butte was so high the average of the walls
+was only about five hundred feet. We made seventeen miles this day.
+
+That night our camp (No. 35) was again on an island. There Cap. skinned
+and dressed the beaver and turned over the edible portions to Andy who
+cooked some steak for breakfast the next morning. It tasted something
+like beef, but we were not enthusiastic for I fear this beaver belonged
+to the same geological epoch as the goose we had cooked at the upper end
+of the valley. Fortified by the beaver steak we pushed off and ran about
+a mile on a smooth river when a stop was made for pictures and
+geologising. This consumed the whole morning, a fact Andy took advantage
+of to make some beaver soup for dinner. This concoction was voted not a
+success and we turned to bacon and beans as preferable thereafter.
+Opposite this dinner place was a rough lateral canyon full of turrets
+and minarets which had the remarkable property of twice distinctly
+repeating a shout as loud as the original, and multiplying a rifle shot
+to peals of thunder. There had been people here before any white men,
+for Steward found an artificial wall across an indentation of the cliff,
+the first work of the ancient builders we had encountered. It was
+mysterious at the time, the South-western ruins having then not been
+discovered with one or two exceptions. We ascribed this wall, however,
+to the ancestors of the Moki (Hopi).
+
+In the afternoon as we pulled along we came to a small rapid and the
+walls by this time being closer together and growing constantly higher,
+we knew that we were now fairly within the Canyon of Desolation and for
+about one hundred miles would have a rough river. Not more than two
+miles below our dinner camp we reached a locality where the stream
+doubled back on itself forming a vast and beautiful amphitheatre. We
+could not pass this by without taking a picture of it and Beaman was
+soon at work with his apparatus while I got out my pencils. The
+photograph did not turn out well, and Prof. determined to remain till
+the next day. Our camp was on the left in a thick grove of cottonwoods,
+and box-elders or ash-leaved maples, at the end of the point. As the sun
+sank away bats flew about and an insect orchestra began a demoniacal
+concert that shrilled through the night and made us feel like
+slaughtering the myriads if we could. The noises ceased with the day, or
+most of them, though some seemed to intensify with the light. We helped
+Beaman get his dark box and other paraphernalia up to the summit of the
+ridge back of camp, which was easy so far as climbing was concerned, the
+rocks rising by a series of shelves or steps. I made several pencil
+sketches there, which I have never seen since the close of the
+expedition. The crest of the promontory was about forty yards wide at
+its maximum and three yards at the minimum, with a length of
+three-fourths of a mile. From the middle ridge one could look down into
+the river on both sides, and it seemed as if a stone could almost be
+thrown into each from one standpoint. The opposite amphitheatre was
+perhaps one thousand feet high, beautifully carved by the rains and
+winds. It was named Sumner's Amphitheatre after Jack Sumner of the first
+expedition. Several of our men climbed in different directions, but all
+did not succeed in getting out. The day turned out very cloudy with
+sprinkles of rain and Prof. decided to wait still longer to see if
+Beaman could get a good photograph, and we had another night of insect
+opera. The next day by noon the photographer had caught the scene and we
+continued our descending way. The river was perfectly smooth, except a
+small rapid late in the day, with walls on both sides steadily
+increasing their altitude. Desolation in its beginning is exactly the
+reverse of Lodore and Split Mountain. In the latter the entrance could
+hardly be more sudden, whereas the Canyon of Desolation pushes its rock
+walls around one so diplomatically that it is some little time before
+the traveller realises that he is caught. The walls were ragged, barren,
+and dreary, yet majestic. We missed the numerous trees which in the
+upper canyons had been so ornamental wherever they could find a footing
+on the rocks. Here there were only low shrubs as a rule and these mainly
+along the immediate edge of the water, though high up on north slopes
+pines began to appear. Altitude, latitude, and aridity combine to modify
+vegetation so that in an arid region one notices extraordinary changes
+often in a single locality. The walls still had the tendency to break
+into turrets and towers, and opposite our next camp a pinnacle stood
+detached from the wall on a shelf high above the water suggesting a
+beacon and it was named Lighthouse Rock. Prof. with Steward and Cap. in
+the morning, August 11th, climbed out to study the contiguous region
+which was found to be not a mountain range but a bleak and desolate
+plateau through which we were cutting along Green River toward a still
+higher portion. This was afterwards named the Tavaputs Plateau, East and
+West divisions, the river being the line of separation.
+
+The walls now began to take on a vertical character rising above the
+water 1200 to 1800 feet, and at that height they were about a quarter of
+a mile apart. From their edges they broke back irregularly to a
+separation as nearly as could be determined of from three to five miles,
+the extreme summit being 2500 feet above the river.
+
+[Illustration: Steward.
+
+Canyon of Desolation.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+While waiting for Prof. to come down from the cliffs, Beaman made some
+photographs and then two boats dropped down a quarter of a mile where he
+made some more and Andy got dinner. I remained with the _Nell_ and about
+eleven o'clock the climbers came. We went down on the boat to the noon
+camp, and as soon as we had refreshed the inner man we proceeded
+thinking it about time for rapids to appear. We had not gone far before
+we distinguished a familiar roar just preceding the turn of a bend which
+disclosed three lying within half a mile. They were not bad but the
+river was wide and shallow, making the descent more difficult than it
+would ordinarily have been. The river was now approaching its lowest
+stage, and we saw an uncomfortable looking lot of rocks. High water
+makes easy going but increases the risk of disaster; low water makes
+hard work, batters the boats, and delays progress, but as a rule it is
+less risky. All the boats cleared the first rapid without any
+difficulty, but in the second the _Nell_ struck a sunken rock, though
+lightly, while our boat landed squarely on the top of a large boulder
+partially submerged, where we hung fast with the water boiling furiously
+around and almost coming over the sides. I tried to get out over the
+port bow but the current drew me under the boat and I had to get back.
+Jack concluded we were only fast by the extreme end of the keel and
+Jones coming forward Jack slid cautiously out over the stern and felt
+around with his feet till he touched the rock and put his weight on it.
+Thus relieved, the boat lifted slightly and shot away like an arrow but
+not before Jack leaped on again. As soon as we could we made land and
+watched the _Canonita_ which fared still worse. She struck so hard that
+two of the after ribs and some planks were stove in. They then
+extricated her and pulling her up on the rocky shore we went to work to
+repair with cleats made from a broken oar. This delayed us an hour and a
+half. Then saws and hammers were stowed away and the third rapid was run
+without a mishap. It was only the low stage of water that caused the
+trouble. A little farther on a fourth rapid was vanquished and we went
+into camp on the left bank in a cottonwood grove at the head of another.
+"If the rocks, they don't sthop us," sang Jack, "We will cross to
+Killiloo, whacky-whay!" And there were plenty of rocks in the midst of
+foaming waters, but one great advantage of low water is the decreased
+velocity, and velocity on a river like this with so heavy and constant a
+fall is one of the chief factors to reckon with in navigation.
+
+The high cliffs, two thousand feet, red and towering in the bright sun,
+became sombre and mysterious as the night shadows crept over them, the
+summits remaining bright from the last western rays when the river level
+was dim and uncertain. There was plenty of driftwood, and our fires were
+always cheery and comfortable. The nights were now quite cold, or at
+least chilly, while the days were hot as soon as the sun came over the
+edge of the cliffs. Through some of the narrow promontories at this
+particular camp there were peculiar perforations suggesting immense
+windows looking into some fairer land. I would have been glad to examine
+some of these closely, but as it was not necessary they were passed by.
+It would also have been difficult to reach them as they were very high
+up.
+
+The rapid at our camp was a starter the next day on a line of them
+following one after the other till we had run without accident nine
+before halting for dinner; and nine in 6-3/4 miles was not a bad record.
+We landed for noon on the same spot where the first party had stopped
+and our last night's camp was also coincident with theirs, according to
+their map which we had for consultation. Prof. decided to remain here
+for the rest of the day and also the next one which was Sunday. Up in a
+high gulch some pine trees were visible, and Jack and I climbed up to
+them and collected several pounds of gum for repairing the boats. Sunday
+morning Prof., Jones, and Steward struck for the summit up the cliffs to
+get observations. An hour and a half of steady hard work put them 2576
+feet above the river, but they were still three hundred feet below the
+general level of the great plateau which we were bisecting. Prof.
+thought he would like to make better time down the river, which we could
+easily have done up to this point, but if we arrived at the end of the
+canyon too soon we would have to wait there and it was better to
+distribute the wait as we went along. It was now August 14th and we were
+not due below till September 3d.
+
+On Monday morning we pushed and pulled and lifted the boats through a
+shallow rapid half a mile long. It was hard work. Then came one which we
+ran, but the following drop was deemed too risky to trust our boats in,
+and they were lowered by lines. Then in a short distance this same
+process was repeated with hard work in a very bad place, and when we had
+finished that we were tired, hungry, wet, and cold, so under a
+cottonwood tree on the right we stopped for needed refreshment, and
+while it was preparing most of us hung our clothes on the branches of a
+fallen tree to dry. The rapid foaming and fuming presented so vigorous
+an appearance and made so much noise we thought it ought to be named,
+and it was called Fretwater Falls. At three o'clock we took up our oars
+again and were whirled along at runaway speed through a continuous
+descent for half a mile. After another half-mile a small rapid appeared,
+which we dashed through without a second thought, and then came our
+final effort of the day, a line-portage over a particularly bad spot. It
+was a difficult job, requiring great exertion in lifting and pushing and
+fending off, so when Prof. gave the word to camp on the left, we were
+all glad enough to do so. We had made only 5-1/4 miles and seven rapids.
+The let-downs had been hard ones, with a couple of men on board to fend
+off and two or three on the hawser holding back.
+
+The next morning, August 15th, we made another let-down around a bad
+piece of river, and ran two or three small rapids before dinner. At the
+let-down the water dropped at least ten feet in two hundred yards, and
+Prof. estimated thirty in half a mile. The river was also narrow, not
+more than sixty or seventy feet in one place. Many rocks studded the
+rapids, and great caution had to be exercised both in let-downs and in
+runs, lest the boats should be seriously injured. With two or three more
+feet of water we could have run some that were now impossible.
+Fortunately there was always plenty of room on both banks, the cliffs
+being well back from the water. A series of small rapids gave us no
+special trouble, and having put them behind, we ran in at the head of a
+rough-looking one, had dinner, and then made a let-down. Starting on, we
+soon came to a very sharp rapid, which we ran, and found it was only an
+introduction to one following that demanded careful treatment. Another
+let-down was the necessary course, and when it was accomplished we
+stopped for the night where we were on the sand, every man tired, wet,
+and hungry. We had made only four miles. A significant note of warning
+was found here in the shape of fragments of the unfortunate _No-Name_
+mixed up with the driftwood, fully two hundred miles below the falls
+where the wreck occurred.
+
+The precipices surrounding us had now reached truly magnificent
+proportions, one section near our camp springing almost vertically to a
+height of 2800 or 3000 feet. On the dizzy summit we could discern what
+had the appearance of an old-fashioned log-cabin, and from this we
+called it "Log-cabin Cliff." The cabin was in reality a butte of shale,
+as we could see by means of our glasses, and of course of far greater
+size than a real cabin, but from below the illusion was complete. At
+this camp, No. 40, we remained the next day, Prof. wishing to make some
+investigations. He and Jones crossed to the other side and went down on
+foot two or three miles; then returning he went up some distance, while
+the rest of us mended our clothes, worked up notes, and did a score of
+little duties that had been neglected in the river work. Jack and I
+climbed up the cliffs and got more pine gum, with which we caulked up
+the seams in our boat. Cap. kindly turned barber and redeemed me from
+the danger of being classed as orang-outang. The air was too hazy for
+photographing or for getting observations from the summit, and Prof.
+concluded to stay till next day at this place and then go to the top of
+the world; in other words, to the summit. Very early in the morning,
+August 17th, Steward and Cap. started with Prof. for the climb. Keeping
+up the main canyon for a mile they came to a side gorge where Prof. had
+been the day before, which they followed for half a mile and then boldly
+mounted the cliffs, reaching an altitude of 3100 feet above the river.
+While they were gone, Jack and I climbed after more pine gum, and
+succeeded in getting five or six pounds for future use. As I was
+descending along a terrace, Jack being some distance behind and above, a
+fine, large mountain sheep, sleek and clean, with beautiful strong
+horns, sprang along four or five hundred feet from me, and stopped in
+full view listening to Jack's footsteps. I had no gun, and could only
+admire him till he bounded lightly away.
+
+About one o'clock the climbing party came back. Steward had shot a
+mountain sheep with a revolver, only to find that a deep canyon
+intervened between him and his prize and there was no way of getting it.
+
+About half past two we shoved out into the river again, running a small
+rapid immediately. The water was so shallow that our keel struck a
+number of times but no damage was done. We had hardly cleared this when
+we arrived at a drop of about six feet in a few yards with the whole
+river filled with bad rocks. At this place, according to the map made by
+the first party, their _Emma Dean_ was capsised. We made a let-down and
+a quarter of a mile farther on repeated the operation should be.
+Following this were some swift shoals which brought us to another ugly
+descent where the _Nell_ stove a hole in her side and came near
+upsetting. Prof. was knocked half out of the boat but got in again. The
+other boats we lowered by lines and they passed through uninjured. Near
+this point a fine clear little stream about a rod wide entered from the
+west. After running two more rapids Prof. decided to camp which we did
+on the right, Camp 41. Our run footed up 3-3/4 miles. Our camp was in
+some cottonwoods and we had to cross a wide rocky bar to get to it but
+it was preferable to camping on the sand. In this canyon there was
+generally a valley about one-quarter mile wide on one side or the other,
+and with the abundant supply of driftwood for fires and a whole river
+for drink we fared well. The great canyon now appeared deeper than at
+any point above, about three thousand feet we estimated, the walls being
+extremely precipitous. One cliff not far from camp appeared to be
+nearly perpendicular.
+
+Steward got up very early the next morning in order to mend his shoes,
+and he succeeded so well as cobbler, we declared he had missed his
+calling, but we did not start till ten o'clock, waiting for Beaman to
+take views. The first thing we then did was to run a very shallow rapid,
+followed by another, long, difficult, narrow, and rocky. Then there was
+a short, easy one, with the next below compelling a very hard let-down.
+There was nothing but rocks, large rocks, so close together that it was
+all we could do to manoeuvre the boats between them. There was no
+channel anywhere. For the greater part of the way we had to pull them
+empty over the rocks on driftwood skids which taxed our muscles
+considerably and of course saturated our clothing for half the time we
+were in the water, as was always the case at let-downs. This over we had
+our noon ration of bread, bacon, and coffee and took a fresh start by
+running a nice, clear rapid and then another a half-mile below, and we
+thought we were getting on well when we saw ahead a fall of some ten
+feet in fourteen rods, turbulent and fierce. The only prudent thing for
+this rapid was a let-down and we went at it at once. It was the usual
+pulling, hauling, fending, and pushing, but we got through with it after
+a while and naming it at the suggestion of some one, Melvin Falls, we
+went on to the eighth and last rapid for the day. This was half a mile
+long and very rocky, but it was thought we could run it and all went
+through safely except the _Nell_ which caught her keel on a rock and
+hung for a moment, then cleared and finished with no damage. We made
+Camp 42 on a sand-hill. These hills were a feature of the wide banks,
+being blown up by the winds, sometimes to a height of fifteen or twenty
+feet. Our run for the day was less than five miles, yet as we had passed
+eight rapids one way and another, we were all pretty tired and of course
+wet and hungry. A good big camp-fire was quickly started, our dry
+garments from the rubber bags donned in place of the flapping wet ones,
+and we were entirely comfortable, with the bread baking in the Dutch
+oven, the coffee or tea steaming away, and the inspiring fragrance of
+frying bacon wafted on the evening air. When we stopped long enough Andy
+would give us boiled beans or stewed dried apples as a treat. If we
+desired to enliven the conversation all that was necessary was to start
+the subject of the "light" back at the camp where we first met Douglas
+Boy. Every one would soon be involved except Prof. who only laughed and
+inserted from time to time a well-chosen remark to keep up the interest.
+Jack would always give us a half-dozen songs and to this Steward would
+add a solo on the mouth-organ. The evenings were growing longer, and we
+sat closer to the fire. Sometimes Cap. and Clem would play a game of
+euchre, but no one else seemed to care anything about cards. Our beds,
+when possible, were made by first putting down willows or cedar twigs in
+regular order, on which the blankets would be spread making a luxurious
+bed on which sleep instantly overtook us, with the sound of falling
+water generally the last thing and the first in our ears.
+
+At 7.30 the next morning, August 19th, we were speeding on our way and
+ran the rapid which had sent its lullaby to our camp. Another came right
+after it, shallow and bad, and then one more where the channel was beset
+with innumerable boulders hidden under the surface. Happily the boats
+were not seriously damaged, they needed no repairs, and we kept on to
+the next barrier which proved to be not runable with any prospect of
+getting through whole so we made a portage. Then there was a rapid we
+ran easily, but as if to revenge itself for making one gentle for us,
+the river obliged us to work a laborious passage at the next two. We had
+good hard work, lowering by lines, wading alongside where necessary to
+ease the boats, or clinging to their sides where the water was deep,
+while the men on shore at the hawser's end lowered away to a shallow
+place. We were glad to halt at 11.30 for dinner, and a short rest.
+
+There was a heavy rapid beside us as we ate, and Steward named it
+Chandler Falls. It had a descent of about twelve feet in twenty rods. On
+the opposite side of the river a clear little creek came in, and this
+was named Chandler Creek, Chandler being the maiden name of Steward's
+wife. Beaman and Clem selected a position with their photographic outfit
+and made some photographs of us as we were working the boats through. A
+mile below we halted on the right for Beaman to get more views. None of
+his photographs of the rapids came out well as the plates were too slow.
+Up a gulch on the right we could see a remarkable topographic feature,
+nothing less than a gigantic aperture, or natural arch, in the cliff. It
+had a span of at least 300 feet with a height of about half as much. It
+was 1500 or 1800 feet above the river. Hundreds of cedar trees grew
+around the arch on the ledges of the huge wall through which it was cut
+by the action of the elements.
+
+The cliffs everywhere were now becoming more broken, and there was an
+entrance somewhere from the back country, or it may have been up the
+canyon, for we discovered remains of tipis and camps with metates or
+grinding stones, the first evidences of human beings we had seen since
+the "Moki" wall. This and the breaking of the cliffs caused us to
+believe that we were nearing the end of the canyon. Prof. with Jones and
+Steward went down-stream on foot for a distance to see what was coming
+next and found a stretch of very bad water. On the return a rattlesnake
+struck at Steward but luckily failed to hit him. Steward killed it. We
+concluded to stop for the night where we were with the day's
+record--four rapids run, three let-downs, and 4-5/8 miles in distance.
+This camp was not satisfactory and we got out of it early the next
+morning. While Beaman was making some views across the river we lowered
+the other two boats through one rapid and then ran them through a second
+in three-quarters of a mile to a better camping place, from which we
+went back and helped the third boat, the _Canonita_, do the same. Prof.
+wanted to climb out, but the morning being half gone he planned to start
+after dinner and meanwhile he read Emerson aloud to us till Andy shouted
+his "Go fur it boys!" Accompanied by Steward and Clem, in the afternoon
+he climbed up 1200 or 1500 feet to a point where he could see down the
+river two or three miles. They counted seven rapids, and confirmed the
+belief that the walls were breaking. The surrounding country was made up
+of huge ridges that ran in toward the river from five miles back.
+
+Our Camp 44 was in a little valley about a quarter of a mile wide, the
+bottom covered with cedars and greasewood. The scenery was still on a
+magnificent scale but barren and desolate. The next morning, August
+21st, we were under way at 7.30 and plunged almost immediately into the
+rapids which had been sighted from the cliffs above. In a little over
+four miles we let down six times. A seventh rapid we ran and then
+stopped for noon on the left, every man, as usual, soaking wet. A little
+rain fell but not enough to consider. After dinner four more rapids were
+put behind; we ran all but one at which we made a let-down. Our record
+for this day was eleven rapids in a trifle less than seven miles, and we
+were camped at the head of another rapid which was to form our
+eye-opener in the morning. The walls receded from the river
+three-fourths of a mile and now, though still very high, had more the
+appearance of isolated cliffs.
+
+We had not a single unpleasant incident till Beaman on this day ran one
+rapid contrary to Prof.'s orders. He was sharply reprimanded, and for
+the time being his tendency to insubordination and recklessness was
+checked. He probably did not mean to be either, but his confidence in
+his ability to steer through anything led him astray. In the evening by
+the camp-fire light Prof. read aloud from _Miles Standish_. Although a
+heavy wind blew sand all over us, no one seemed to complain.
+
+The next morning, August 22d, the first thing we did was to run the
+rapid beside our camp, a beautiful chute, swift, long, and free from
+rocks. Immediately below this was one half a mile long in the form of a
+crescent, the river making a sharp bend with a bad current, but we ran
+it. This was, in fact, a part of the other rapid, or it might be so
+classed, as was frequently the case where the descent was nearly
+continuous from one rapid to another. The river was very narrow at this
+place, not more than seventy-five feet wide. We had not gone far before
+we reached a rapid where it was prudent to lower the boats, and not more
+than a few hundred yards below this there was another of a similar
+character but necessitating harder work. Then we were brought face to
+face with one more that could not be run with safety on the present
+stage of water, though we ran a part of it and made a let-down past the
+remainder. When this was finally accomplished with everything in good
+order, we found ourselves in front of still another that refused to
+grant us clear passage, and we worked the boats down with lines as in
+the previous rapids without removing the cargoes. The method was the
+usual one for the let-downs, three or four men on the line and a couple
+on board the boat to manoeuvre and protect her. Having by this time
+advanced three and one-eighth miles from last night's camp we stopped
+for dinner. On taking up the oars again the first rapid was a fine,
+clear descent with extremely large waves, through which all three boats
+dashed with exhilarating speed, leaping part of their length out of the
+water as their velocity carried them zipping over the crests. Our boat
+happened to strike near the finish on a submerged rock to the right of
+the main channel and near shore and there she hung for some moments. The
+first boat had landed below and some of the men quickly came up to where
+I could throw them our line, and this pulled us off without any damage
+worth mentioning. A little below this we ran another successfully and
+had not gone far before we were astonished at the sight of a horse
+grazing unconcernedly on some low bluffs on the right. Prof. had
+discovered this horse with his field glass while we stopped above to
+examine one of the rapids. He thought it might indicate the presence of
+the Major, or of Indians, but he did not mention the matter to any of
+us. When we were at a good point, and just as all hands had discovered
+the animal, he ordered a sharp landing on the same side. We ran in
+quickly. Prof. went up the bank and gave several shouts while we held
+ourselves ready for action. There was no response. He then went to the
+horse and found it very lame which, coupled with the absence of any
+indication of visitors within recent months, caused us to conclude that
+the horse had been abandoned by Indians who had been encamped here a
+good while before. We left the place and running another rapid, a little
+one, we came to a fine spot for a camp on the right at the beginning of
+a heavy rapid, and there we stayed for the night.
+
+There was now a marked change in the geology, and fossiliferous beds,
+which for a long time had been absent, appeared. The canyon walls also
+broke away considerably. The next morning it was decided that we should
+remain at this camp till after dinner for observation work. I went out
+with Steward to help him gather fossils, and Beaman took some views,
+while the others occupied themselves with various duties. The afternoon
+began by letting the boats by line past the rapid at camp which Beaman
+called Sharp Mountain Falls, from a pointed peak overhead. There was a
+drop of about fifteen feet in thirty rods. Beaman wanted to photograph
+us in the midst of our work, and got ready for it, but a rain-storm came
+on and we had to wait till it cleared for him to get the picture. We
+then went ahead dashing through a pretty rapid with a swift current, and
+next had a long stretch of rapid, though not difficult river, making in
+all 2-3/4 miles, and camping at five o'clock on the left. The only
+trouble we had was that in choosing one of four channels our boat got
+where she was inevitably drawn into the top of a sunken dead tree lodged
+in the rocks and my starboard row lock was broken off. On shore Steward
+killed another rattlesnake, of which there seemed to be a good many
+along the river.
+
+We were now actually out of the Canyon of Desolation and in the
+beginning of what the Major at first called Coal Canyon, then Lignite,
+and finally Gray, the name it bears to-day, because of the colour of the
+walls. The division between the two canyons was the break down where we
+had seen the horse. Casting up we found that the Canyon of Desolation is
+ninety-seven miles long. Early the next morning, August 24th, we pulled
+away from Camp 47 soon running two small rapids of no consequence, and
+in three miles came to a descent of some ten feet in a very short space,
+where we made a let-down. Three fair rapids were next run easily when we
+halted to examine a hard-looking place where we let down again. An
+encounter with three more, two of them each a quarter of a mile long,
+took us till noon, though we ran them and we came to a stop for dinner.
+Now the walls had narrowed, the canyon being about half a mile wide at
+the top--sometimes not more than a quarter. The colour was buff, and
+there were seams of coal and lignite in places. On one or the other side
+the cliffs were nearly vertical for about three hundred feet then
+breaking back to jagged heights reaching about two thousand feet. After
+dinner having run two more rapids without trouble we arrived at a very
+difficult locality where the first cliffs, six hundred feet high, came
+down vertically on both sides quite close to the water. We saw how we
+could navigate it, but at flood time it would be a most serious
+proposition, as there would be no footing on either side, unless,
+perhaps on the huge masses of fallen rock. At the present stage we were
+able to let the boats down by lines. Then we had two easy rapids,
+followed by another not more difficult but less safe. A little farther
+on we ran two more which completed the record for the day, and we were
+glad to camp with a total run of 12-3/8 miles, and many rapids with
+three let-downs. A feature of the cliffs this day was numerous alcoves
+and grottoes worn into the sandstone some of them like great caverns
+with extremely narrow canyons leading into them.
+
+In the morning Prof. with Jones, Cap., and Steward climbed out. The
+country was elevated above the river about two thousand feet, a wild
+labyrinth of ragged gulches, gullies, and sharp peaks devoid of
+vegetation except a few pinons on some slopes, the whole presenting a
+picture of complete desolation. At a quarter past twelve we were again
+gliding down on a stiff current. We ran seven easy rapids and let-down
+by lines twice, before arriving about three o'clock at the mouth of a
+stream-bed sixty feet wide, which Prof. said was Little White, or Price
+River. The mouth was so devoid of water that we camped on the smooth
+sand, it being the only ground free from brush. A sudden rise or
+cloud-burst would have made it an active place for us but we decided to
+take the risk for one night. Prof. and Jones tried to get out by
+following up this river bed but they were not successful. Game was
+abundant and they thought there might be an Indian trail but they saw
+none. In the evening Steward gave us a mouth-organ recital and Jack sang
+a lot of his songs in fine style. The air was soft and tranquil, and
+knowing we had now conquered the Canyon of Desolation without a serious
+mishap we all felt well satisfied.
+
+In the morning, August 25th, breakfast was disposed of early, the boats
+were put in trim and away we went again on a good current running many
+rapids and making one let-down in a distance of eight miles. I counted
+fourteen rapids, Steward ten or eleven, Prof. only eight, showing that
+it is not always easy to separate the rapids where they come so close
+together. In one the river was no more than thirty feet wide with big
+waves that made the boats jump and ship water. We reached a bend and
+saw the end of the canyon only a mile or two away, but we had to make
+the let-down mentioned before we got there. Our camp, Number 50, was
+made about noon, just inside the mouth of the canyon on the left,
+opposite a high, beautiful pinnacle we called Cathedral Butte afterwards
+changing the name to Gunnison. Here we would wait till the time
+appointed for the Major to join us according to the plan. Gray Canyon
+was now also behind us with its thirty-six miles and numerous rapids.
+Adding to it the ninety-seven miles of Desolation made the total canyon
+from Wonsits Valley 133 miles with a descent of about 550 feet
+distributed through a hundred rapids, some small, some heavy. The entire
+fall from our starting point was now some two thousand feet. Prof. and
+Jones went down the valley two miles with the hope of seeing signs of
+the Major but not a human being was to be found anywhere.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 12: Many, many years after the canyon voyage as Major Powell
+with his sister, Mrs. Thompson, and Professor Thompson were approaching
+Fort Wingate in New Mexico, the sun was setting, and sky and rocks
+combined to produce a glorious picture. Suddenly he asked his companions
+to halt and sitting on their horses looking into the wonderful sky he
+sang with them the above two stanzas.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+     Return of the Major--Some Mormon Friends--No Rations at the
+     Elusive Dirty Devil--Captain Gunnison's Crossing--An All-night
+     Vigil for Cap. and Clem--The Land of a Thousand Cascades--A
+     Bend Like a Bow-knot and a Canyon Labyrinthian--Cleaving an
+     Unknown World--Signs of the Oldest Inhabitant--Through the
+     Canyon of Stillwater to the Jaws of the Colorado.
+
+
+There was little energy in our camp the day after our arrival at the end
+of the long struggle with Desolation and Gray canyons, and, also, it
+being Sunday, we lounged around in a state of relaxation, joyful that we
+did not have to roll up our blankets and stow them and everything else
+in the rubber bags and pack the cabins to go on. The boats had been
+unloaded and hauled on the beach, which was smooth sand, to dry out
+preparatory to our caulking and repairing them with the pine gum
+collected in Desolation. During the morning Prof. sent Jack and me down
+the river a short distance to put up a signal, a small American flag, on
+the lower end of an island, where it could easily be seen by any one
+looking for us. All hands kept an ear open for signal shots, which we
+hoped to hear soon, and have the Major once more in our company. After
+dinner Prof. and Steward took another walk down the open valley about
+five miles to reconnoitre, but though they came upon remains of a great
+many Indian camps, all were old, and the valley appeared as silent and
+deserted as it was desolate and barren. Along the river there were a few
+groves of cottonwood, the only vegetation of any consequence to be seen.
+
+[Illustration: A. Map by the U. S. War Department--1868.
+
+Supplied by the courtesy of General Mackenzie, U. S. A., showing the
+knowledge of the Colorado River basin just before Major Powell began
+operations. The topography above the junction of the Green and Grand is
+largely pictorial and approximate. The white space from the San Rafael
+to the mouth of the Virgin is the unknown country referred to in this
+volume, which was investigated in 1871-72-73. Preliminary Maps B, C, and
+D, at pages 244, 246, and 207, respectively, partly give the results of
+the work which filled in this area.]
+
+Through this valley passed the famous trail from Santa Fe to Los
+Angeles, laid out in 1830 by that splendid pioneer, William Wolfskill.
+The reason he came so far north was because there was no place to cross
+the canyons below that was known.[13] This path was occasionally
+travelled for years, and became celebrated as the "Old Spanish Trail."
+Here it was that Captain Gunnison of our army in his notable
+explorations crossed in 1853 on his westward journey, which a few days
+later proved fatal to him, as he was killed by the Gosi-Utes. Before
+leaving he established the latitude and longitude of this crossing,
+which ever after bore his name.[14] Together with the mouth of the
+Uinta, the mouth of Henry's Fork, and the mouth of Diamond Creek, this
+made four points astronomically fixed before the Major came between the
+Union Pacific crossing and the end of the Grand Canyon. Diamond Creek
+mouth was determined accurately by Ives in 1858. The trappers and fur
+hunters between 1824 and 1840, men like Jim Bridger and Kit Carson, had
+roamed more or less over the region we had come through, and
+occasionally they had tried to see the river in the canyons. The aridity
+of the country generally held them back. Ashley, as already noted, had
+made the passage of Red Canyon, and the trapper Meek with several
+companions had gone through Lodore and Whirlpool one winter on the ice.
+Fremont, Simpson, Berthoud, Selden, and some other scientific explorers
+had passed here and there reconnoitring, and Macomb in 1859 had made a
+reconnaissance to the south and south-west of Gunnison Crossing, so that
+a general idea of the character of the region had been obtained and a
+kind of approximate topography had been tentatively thrown in, yet it
+was mainly an unknown wilderness so far as record went, particularly
+contiguous to the river. But south from the San Rafael to the Paria and
+west to the High Plateaus forming the southward continuation of the
+Wasatch Range, an area of at least 10,000 square miles, there was still
+a completely unknown country. Indeed, even from the Paria on down to the
+Grand Wash the region on the right was hardly better understood, though
+there were several Mormon settlements on the headwaters of the Virgin,
+and recently the settlement of Kanab had been made farther east. On the
+south of the Grand Canyon Ives had reconnoitred to some extent, reaching
+the river at the mouth of Diamond Creek, but at no other point above
+that did he come to the river nor get anywhere near its canyon above the
+tributary Habasu (Cataract).
+
+In the entire stretch from Gunnison Crossing to the end of the Grand
+Canyon, a distance of 587-1/2 miles, but two points were known where
+the river could be crossed, the Crossing of the Fathers (El Vado de los
+Padres), about latitude 37, and the mouth of the Paria, only thirty-five
+miles lower down. This latter place had been discovered by Jacob
+Hamblin, or "Old Jacob," as he was familiarly called, and he was the
+first white man to cross there, which he did in October, 1869. He was a
+well-known Mormon scout and pioneer of those days. He forded at El Vado
+his first time in 1858, possibly the first white man after Escalante,
+though the ford was known to at least Richard Campbell, the trapper, in
+1840 or earlier. In 1862 Jacob circumtoured the Grand and Marble
+canyons, going from St. George by way of the Grand Wash to the Moki
+Towns and returning by way of El Vado. Thus the region below us to the
+left or east had been reconnoitred in a general way by Macomb, while
+that to the right or west had not had even bird's-eye exploration. Until
+the Major's unrivalled first descent in 1869 the river was equally
+unknown. Even above Gunnison Crossing, despite the spasmodic efforts at
+exploration referred to, the river had remained a geographical enigma,
+and to the Major belongs the sole credit for solving this great problem
+throughout its length from the Union Pacific crossing in Wyoming to the
+mouth of the Virgin River--the last problem of this kind within the
+United States. Hampered as the first party was by loss of provisions and
+instruments, they nevertheless made a plat of the immediate course of
+the stream, portions of which were lost with the men who were killed by
+the Shewits on leaving the party near the end of the Grand Canyon. So
+far we had not been bothered in the least by lack of provisions,
+instruments, time, health, or strength, and we had been able to make an
+accurate meander of the river, note the topography and geology as we
+went along, climb out frequently to examine the surrounding country, and
+in every way carry forward the scientific work as planned. It was now a
+question whether or not we would get our supplies at the next appointed
+station, the mouth of the Dirty Devil River, or whether we would be
+obliged to weigh out what we had, and by limiting ourselves to strict
+rations put the work through anyhow. By September 5th we would probably
+have information on this point, that being the limit set for our
+waiting. Should the Major not arrive by that time, it would mean that
+we were to go on as best we could with the supplies on hand.
+
+Monday was devoted to overhauling the boats, while Prof. took
+observations. During a rest he also read aloud to us from Tennyson,
+
+    "A land of streams! some, like a downward smoke,
+    Slow dropping veils of thinnest lawn, did go;
+    And some thro' wavering lights and shadows broke,
+    Rolling a slumbrous sheet of foam below.
+    They saw the gleaming river seaward flow
+    From the inner land; far off three mountain-tops,
+    Three silent pinnacles of aged snow,
+    Stood sunset-flushed; and, dew'd with showery drops,
+    Up-clomb the shadowy pine above the copse."
+
+He was an excellent reader and we enjoyed his various selections. They
+gave variety and new drift to our thought which was refreshing and
+beneficial. When the boats were completed they were returned to the
+river, but for the time being the rations and other things forming their
+cargoes were permitted to remain on shore covered by the paulins. The
+boats swung gracefully at their lines and Jack was tempted to get out
+his fishing tackle in the early evening and seat himself on one of the
+cabins to wait patiently for a bite. Softly the river rippled by with an
+innocent murmur as if it had never been guilty of anything but the
+calmest and best-behaved motion such as now reflected the great pinnacle
+across the way standing 1200 feet clear cut against the glowing sky. The
+air was balmy, no wind blew, and a universal quiet prevailed when
+suddenly Jack uttered several exclamations not entirely in harmony with
+the moment. He thought his precious hook was caught on a snag. Pulling
+gently in order not to break his line the snag lifted with it and
+presently he was astounded to see, not the branch of a tree or a
+water-logged stick, but the head of an enormous fish appear above the
+surface. Had there been some splashing he would have been prepared for
+the extraordinary sight but the monster came with barely a wriggle as if
+he did not know what it was to be caught. He was successfully landed in
+the middle cabin of the boat, which was empty except for some water, and
+lay there unhurt as if it were the natural place for him. Casting again
+another of the same kind came forth and then a third. The longest
+appeared to be the length of the cabin, as he floated in the water, and
+that was four feet. He was at least thirty or thirty-six inches with a
+circumference of fifteen inches. The others were considerably shorter
+but nevertheless very large fish. The big one was killed for food and
+Steward noted that the heart after removal kept up pulsations of twenty
+beats to the minute for half an hour. These fish are now called Colorado
+River salmon. The flesh was white and they seemed to us good eating.
+
+[Illustration: Colorado River White Salmon.
+
+Photograph by the Denver, Colorado Canyon, and Pacific Railway Survey
+under Robert Brewster Stanton, 1889.]
+
+On Tuesday, August 29th, the third day of our waiting, as we were about
+to return to various occupations after dinner three rapid shots broke
+suddenly on the quiet air from down the valley. It was our signal. "The
+Major" cried all in a breath, and a reply signal was instantly fired.
+Clem and I were sent immediately to the end of the island, carrying our
+rifles, of course, for while we had little doubt as to who it was, there
+might be a surprise. We hurried down while the others watched the bank
+beyond. As soon as we cleared the bushes and could see the western shore
+we distinguished the Major and a stranger by his side, with horses. We
+shouted to them directions for reaching our camp and they rode up till
+they came opposite to it whence they were ferried over while Jones took
+the horses down to their camp about four miles below. The Major reported
+an absolute failure in the attempt to find a way to the mouth of the
+Dirty Devil River and he had not himself been able to do anything about
+it. The first trial was eastward from Glencove, a Mormon settlement on
+the Sevier. It failed because the Indian guides refused to proceed
+beyond fifty miles and it was not practicable to go on without them. A
+second party was then sent in a little later under Old Jacob
+north-eastward from Kanab. They reached a river flowing to the Colorado
+at about the right place and for many miles followed it with extreme
+difficulty and hazard even at the low stage of water prevailing, down
+through a deep, narrow canyon. Sometimes they were compelled to swim
+their horses where the rapid stream filled the chasm from wall to wall,
+and continual crossing and re-crossing were necessary from one footing
+to another. This perilous effort was also abandoned. The Major had gone
+to Salt Lake and from there, being informed of these results, down to a
+village called Manti whence he made his way across country to our
+present position, with several pack animals bringing three hundred
+pounds of flour, a quantity of jerked beef, and twenty pounds of sugar.
+This was not exactly adequate to the circumstances but he probably
+thought it was all he could get through with to the meeting place
+appointed in the time alloted. While he and Fred Hamblin, the man
+accompanying him, were eating their dinner, we packed the boats, and
+when all was ready took them on board, the Major in his old place in the
+armchair on our boat, and Hamblin on the middle deck of another. In the
+run down to the camp Hamblin was very uncomfortable for he was not
+accustomed to boats, especially to boats that ran so fast. There were
+two little rapids, some swift chutes, and in several places the river
+shoaled and we grated slightly on the gravel.
+
+Stretching away westward from Gunnison Butte we saw an exquisitely
+modelled line of cliffs, some portions being a clear azure blue. At
+first it was proposed to name them Henry Cliffs, but they were finally
+called from their colour, Azure. Presently we arrived at the camp where
+we found another man, Lyman Hamblin, a son of Jacob and nephew of Fred.
+They were both Mormons from Kanab near the Arizona line in southern
+Utah. They had a large amount of mail for us and every one fell to
+reading letters and papers. August 30th and 31st were spent here getting
+our work in shape, making sketches and observations, as well as writing
+letters and helping the Hamblins prepare for their trip back through the
+wild country. They had met with no Indians on the way in and they hoped
+to be equally fortunate going back having no desire to see any. In this,
+as they told me afterwards, they were not successful. They mounted their
+horses, Friday, September 1st, about four in the afternoon when the west
+was taking on a rich evening glow and turning in that direction
+vanished, with a wave of the hand and a good-bye, into the mystery of
+colour, bearing our letters, the geographic data, the geologic notes,
+and all the other material which we had collected since leaving the
+mouth of the Uinta, and which it was thought advisable to send out both
+for safety and to relieve our crowded cabins. They said that the next
+evening before they realised it they found themselves so near a large
+encampment of Indians that there was no getting away, and they did the
+only thing they could sensibly do, rode boldly on straight into the
+midst of the strangers with the hope that the band belonged where they
+were on the west side of the river, in which case they were surely
+peaceful. Both men spoke Ute well and they had had long experience. The
+Indians proved to be entirely friendly, and the Hamblins camped with
+them for the night; not because they wanted to but because they thought
+it inexpedient to do otherwise. When they left us we felt that they were
+old friends for they were fine men and most agreeable. Besides, with the
+exception of Basor who had driven the team down from Salt Lake to the
+Uinta with our rations, they were the only white men which those of us
+who had not visited the Uinta Agency had seen since the Harrells in
+Brown's Park, nearly three months before. An hour after their departure
+we pushed off and ran down about half a mile, passing one little rapid,
+to the old crossing where we stopped on the left for the night. Beaman
+and I were commissioned to go back to our Camp Gunnison to get a saw
+which had been forgotten there; we could not afford to lose so valuable
+an implement. A well-beaten Indian trail leading up the river gave us
+easy going and we made good time. The effects of light and colour all
+around us playing over the mountains and valley gave the surroundings a
+weird interest. The day was ending. Long shadows stole across the
+strange topography while the lights on the variegated buttes became
+kaleidoscopic. As for us, we appeared ridiculously inadequate. We ought
+to have been at least twenty feet high to fit the hour and the scene.
+Gradually the lights faded, the shadows faded, then both began to merge
+till a soft grey-blue dropped over all blending into the sky everywhere
+except west where the burnish of sunset remained. Before dark the old
+camp was reached; we found the saw by the last dying rays and then
+picked our backward path by starlight following the trail as we had
+come. Silence and the night were one as in the countless years that had
+carved the dim buttes from the rocks of the world primeval when man was
+not. Beautiful is the wilderness at all times, at all times lovely, but
+under the spell of the twilight it seems to enfold one in a tender
+embrace, pushing back the sordid, the commonplace, and obliterating
+those magnified nothings that form the weary burden of civilised man.
+With keen appreciation we tramped steadily on till at last we perceived
+through the night gloom the cheerful flicker of our camp-fire, a sight
+always welcome, for the camp-fire to the explorer is home.
+
+At eight the next morning our business was resumed with the Major happy
+in his accustomed place. We made a nice run of eighteen miles on a
+smooth, shallow river, with broken, picturesque low cliffs and isolated
+buttes everywhere. The valley was wide and filled with these rocky
+hills. For a quarter of a mile on each side of the river there were
+cottonwood groves offering fine spots for camping, before and after
+crossing. There seemed to be several places where crossing was
+accomplished. At one of these we discovered where some Indians had been
+in camp a few hours before. The placidity of the river permitted the
+lashing together of the boats once more for a time and while we drifted
+this way down with the easy current the Major and Prof. took turns at
+reading aloud from Whittier. _Mogg Megone_ was one selection that was
+quite in harmony with the surroundings while other poems offered a
+delightful contrast. There were songs, too, and I specially identify
+with this particular locality that old college favourite, _Dear Evelina,
+Sweet Evelina_ which everybody sang, and which the Major often sang
+alone as he peered ahead into the vista unfolding.
+
+Before night the valley narrowed, the banks looked more like low canyon
+walls, and the current stiffened. A clump of small cottonwoods suggested
+a camp as the sun ran down and there we halted. Nor did we go on the
+next day as the Major desired to go out to a ridge lying to the west,
+which he had seen from his horse on his way to us across country. Jones
+went with him and they came back with a fine collection of Cretaceous
+fossils. Steward and Cap. also went collecting and were successful. Our
+surroundings were now even more peculiar than heretofore. In many places
+the region was absolutely barren of all vegetation; thousands of acres
+at a time had upon them hardly a living plant of any description, being
+simply bare and barren rock, as devoid of soil as the deck of a ship.
+Prof. took observations for latitude and longitude and the rest of us
+were busy at our usual affairs. We had very little time to spare when
+the various necessary duties had been regularly attended to.
+
+[Illustration: Dellenbaugh Butte.
+
+Near Mouth of San Rafael.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+As we went on the next morning the desolation of the surroundings
+increased, if that were possible, and it was easy to read in this one
+cause of the tardiness of its exploration. The acreage of bare rock grew
+wider and broader. The buttes now often turned to walls about 150 feet
+high, all much broken, but indicating the approach to another closing in
+of the rocks upon us. Many of these buttes were beautiful in their
+castellated form as well as because of a picturesque banded character,
+and opposite our dinner-camp, which was on a ledge of rock, was one
+surprisingly symmetrical, resembling an artificial structure. I thought
+it looked like an art gallery, and the Major said it ought to be named
+after the artist, so he called it "Dellenbaugh's Butte" then and there.
+Another singular feature of this day was a number of alkaline springs
+discovered bubbling up from the bottom of a sort of bayou or branch of
+the river. There were at least seventy-five of them, one throwing a
+column six or eight inches above the surface of the water here about two
+feet deep. We thought the place worth a name, and called it Undine
+Springs. Three or four miles below the butte named after me we arrived
+at the mouth of a river, twenty-five feet wide and eight or ten inches
+deep, coming in from the right. This was the San Rafael. Our camp was
+made near some cottonwoods between its left bank and the Green. As soon
+as we landed we perceived that the ground was strewn with flaked chips
+of chalcedony, jasper, and similar stones. It was plain that here was a
+favourite workshop of the native arrowhead maker, an artisan now
+vanished forever. Numerous well-finished beautiful arrow-heads of stone
+were found, all being placed in the general collection for the
+Smithsonian Institution. Our Camp 54 was elevated considerably above the
+river, and the surroundings being open, we had views in all directions.
+Towards the east we could see the Sierra La Sal, two clusters of rounded
+peaks, forty or fifty miles away, forming a majestic picture. The place
+was easy of access, and had been a favourite resort for natives, several
+acres of camp remains being found. In the morning Prof. began a series
+of observations to fix the position of the mouth of the San Rafael,
+while the Major and Jones, with rations, blankets, etc., on their backs
+for a two days' trip, started early up the tributary stream to see what
+kind of a country it flowed through. Steward feeling somewhat under the
+weather did not attempt to do anything, while the photographer and the
+others busied themselves in their respective lines. The following day
+the Major and Jones returned as planned, having traced the San Rafael
+for twenty-five miles. Before they arrived Cap. and Clem went across the
+Green to travel eastward to some high red buttes, one of which they
+intended to climb for topographical purposes. These buttes loomed up in
+a striking way, and appeared to be no more than six miles off even to
+Cap.'s experienced eye. The Major described the drainage basin of the
+San Rafael as wofully barren and desolate, like the rest of our
+surroundings. They had seen mountains lying beyond the Dirty Devil
+River, which were the range we then called the Unknown Mountains, there
+being no record of any one ever having seen them before the Major on his
+first trip.
+
+Steward, recovering his poise, walked back alone on the east bank of the
+Green four miles to Dellenbaugh's Butte to examine it and the
+intervening geology. He found the butte to be about four hundred feet
+high and composed of stratified gypsum, thinly bedded and of fine
+quality.
+
+As evening approached we looked for the return of Cap. and Clem,
+especially when the supper hour arrived, but twilight came, then
+darkness, and still their footfall was not heard. The Major was greatly
+disturbed over their failure to come, fearing they had gotten out of
+water, missed their way, and might now be suffering or demoralised in
+the arid wastes to eastward. He ordered a large fire to be built on a
+high spot near camp, where it would be visible for miles in the
+direction the missing men had gone. We divided into watches of two hours
+each to keep the fire going, in order that the men should have a guide
+if they were trying to reach the river in the night. I was called for
+my turn at two in the morning, and read Whittier while feeding the
+flames. The sky was mottled with clouds driving impetuously across the
+zenith, the bright moon gleaming through the interstices as they rapidly
+passed along. My attention was divided between the Quaker poet, the
+blazing fire, the mysterious environment into which I peered from time
+to time, and the flying scud playing hide-and-seek with the moon. At
+three I called Andy, who had breakfast ready before five, and all hands
+were up prepared to start on a search. By the time we had eaten there
+was light enough for operations to begin, and the Major, accompanied by
+Jack, carrying between them two days' rations and as much water as
+possible, were put across the Green to strike out directly eastward. A
+couple of hours later Prof. took a boat, with Steward and me to man it
+and another supply of food and water, and ran down the river a mile,
+where we headed back into the dry region to intersect at a distance the
+route the Major was following. We had not gone far before signal shots
+came to our ears, and through a glass turned in that direction we
+rejoiced to see that the Major and Jack had met the lost ones and all
+was well.
+
+Prof. directed me to go back on foot to our camp with instructions for
+the other boats to come down, while he, in response to further signals,
+dropped his boat to a point nearer to the position of the rescue party
+and easier for them to reach. Cap. had underestimated the distance to
+the butte, which was twice as far as he thought. They walked eight hours
+to get there only to discover that scaling it was out of the question. A
+mile and a half beyond they found one they could climb, but by the time
+they had completed their observations on top of this evening overtook
+them and they were at least fifteen miles from camp. Having consumed
+their lunch at noon and drank all their water they were in something of
+a predicament, but luckily found some water-pockets in the barren rock,
+recently filled by the rains, so they did not suffer for thirst, and
+going hungry is not dangerous. Over the wide surfaces of bare rock they
+travelled toward camp till night forced them to wait for daylight, when
+they kept on till they met the Major and Jack with water and food.
+
+No sooner had I arrived at the camp than the sky which was leaden and
+low began to drop its burden upon us. Packing up could not be done till
+the rain slackened, and we sheltered ourselves as well as we could. As
+we waited a deep roaring sound from not far off presently fell on our
+ears and we were puzzled to explain it till an examination showed a
+recently dry gulch filled with a muddy torrent which leaped the low
+cliff into the river, a sullen cascade. The San Rafael, too, was a
+booming flood. We packed the boats as soon as we could and ran down
+about two miles and a half to where the first boat was. Cliffs bordered
+the river again, 50 to 100 feet high, then 200 or 300, and we saw we
+were in the beginning of the next canyon called from its winding course,
+Labyrinth. Over these straight walls hundreds of beautiful cascades born
+of the rain were plunging into the river. They were of all sizes, all
+heights, and almost all colours, chocolate, amber, and red
+predominating. The rocky walls, mainly of a low purplish-red tint, were
+cut into by the river till the outside curves of the bends were
+perpendicular and sometimes slightly more than perpendicular, so that
+some of the cascades fell clear without a break. The acres of bare rock
+composing the surface of the land on both sides collected the rain as
+does the roof of a house, and the rills and rivulets rapidly uniting
+soon formed veritable floods of considerable proportions seeking the
+bosom of the river. This seemed the most fantastic region we had yet
+encountered. Buttes, pinnacles, turrets, spires, castles, gulches,
+alcoves, canyons and canyons, all hewn, "as the years of eternity roll"
+out of the verdureless labyrinth of solid rock, made us feel more than
+ever a sense of intruding into a forbidden realm, and having permanently
+parted from the world we formerly knew.
+
+About noon we caught up to the other boat and all had dinner together,
+happy that nothing serious had befallen Cap. and Clem. During the whole
+afternoon rain steadily fell upon the top of this rock-roofed world till
+the river rose several inches while its colour turned to a dull yellow,
+then to a red, showing how heavy the rainfall had been in the back
+country. We had our rubber ponchos on but we were more or less damp and
+we began to notice that summer had passed for the air was chilly. The
+river was perfectly smooth making navigation easy and we were able to
+pull steadily along with no interruption from rapids. The walls ever
+increased their height while over the edges the numberless astonishing
+rain cascades continued to play, varying their volume according to the
+downpour from the sky. Before long the cliffs were from 800 to 1000 feet
+high, often perpendicular, giving the waterfalls grand plunges. These
+graceful tributaries were now occasionally perfectly clear and they
+sometimes fell so far without a break that they vanished in feathery
+white spray. A projecting ledge at times might gather this spray again
+to form a second cascade before the river level was reached. The scene
+was quite magical and considering the general aridity for a large part
+of the year, it appeared almost like a phantasm.
+
+    "A land of streams! some, like a downward smoke,
+    Slow dropping veils of thinnest lawn, did go."
+
+The river twisted this way and that with the tongues of the bends filled
+with alluvial deposit bearing dense clumps of scrub-oak, and grass. Each
+new bend presented a fresh picture with the changing waterfalls leaping
+over by the dozen till we might have thought ourselves in some Norwegian
+fiord, and we gave far more attention to admiring the scenery than to
+navigating the boats. Late in the day we landed at the left on the point
+of a bend and chopped a path through the thick oak brush to a grassy
+glade, where we soon had the paulins stretched across oars supported by
+other oars forming comfortable shelters in front of which huge fires of
+dead oak and driftwood were kept going to dry things out. Andy set his
+pots to boiling and supper was soon prepared.
+
+All night the rain fell but our shelters kept us dry and every one had a
+good rest. When the morning of September 8th dawned clear and bracing we
+met it with good spirits, though the spirits of our party seldom varied
+no matter what the circumstances, and every man took as much personal
+interest in the success of the expedition as if he were entirely
+responsible for it.
+
+In order that Beaman might take some pictures and the topographers get
+notes, no move was made. Prof. climbed out obtaining a wide view in all
+directions and securing valuable data. I also went up on the cliffs and
+made a pencil sketch, and in the afternoon we explored a peculiar
+three-mouthed side canyon across the river. Three canyons came together
+at their mouths and we called the place Trin Alcove. Prof. and the Major
+walked up it some distance and then sent for Beaman to come to
+photograph. At nightfall rain began once more, and the shelters were
+again erected over the oars. Another morning came fair and we went on
+leaving Beaman to finish up views and the _Nell_ crew for other work. As
+we proceeded we would occasionally halt to wait but it was noon before
+they overtook us. Rain had begun before this and continued at intervals
+during the dinner stop. As soon as we started we ran into a heavy
+downpour and while pulling along in the midst of this our boat ran on a
+sand-bar and got so far and fast aground that it required all ten men to
+get her off, the other crews walking in the water to where we were, as
+the shoal was very wide. While thus engaged a beautiful colour effect
+developed softly before us through an opalescent, vaporous shroud. The
+sun came forth with brilliant power upon the retreating mists creating a
+clear, luminous, prismatic bow ahead of us arching in perfect symmetry
+from foot to foot of the glistening walls, while high above it resting
+each end on the first terraces a second one equally distinct bridged the
+chasm; and, exactly where these gorgeous rainbows touched the rocks,
+roaring rain cascades leaped down to add their charm to the enchanting
+picture.
+
+We were now at the beginning of a very long loop of the river, which we
+named Bow-knot Bend. Just at the start of this great turn we camped with
+a record for the whole day of 15-1/8 miles. Steward found some fragments
+of pottery. The next morning we remained here till ten for views, and
+then we left Beaman on the summit of the low dividing ridge, where one
+could look into the river on either side and see a point which we rowed
+more than five miles to reach.[15] On the right bank we stopped for
+dinner, and when it was about ready several of us crossed, and, helping
+Beaman down with his heavy boxes, ferried him to our side. The opposite
+bank was no more than one thousand feet in a straight line from our
+starting-place of the morning. Instead of now going on, a halt was
+made, because Steward, prowling around after his custom, had found some
+fossils that were important and he wanted more. The Major, with Jack,
+crossed the river for further geological investigations, while Prof. and
+Jones started to climb out, though the prospect was not encouraging.
+They ascended over rock, strangely eroded by water into caverns and
+holes, then along a ledge till Jones, being a taller man than Prof., got
+up and pulled Prof. after him with his revolver belt. They obtained a
+remarkable view. Buttes, ridges, mountains stood all round, with the
+river so completely lost in the abruptness of its chasm that a mile from
+the brink the whole region was apparently solid, and the existence of
+the gorge with a river at bottom would not even be suspected. They could
+trace the line of Grand River by tower-like buttes and long ridges, and
+just at the gap formed by the junction with the Green a blue mountain
+arose. The Sierra La Sal, too, could be seen lying on the horizon like
+blue clouds. "Weird and wild, barren and ghost-like, it seemed like an
+unknown world," said Prof. The country was a vast plateau similar to the
+one through which the Canyon of Desolation is carved, that is tilting
+northward and increasing in altitude towards the south, so that as the
+river runs on its canyon becomes deeper from this cause as well as its
+cutting. These great terraces sloping to the north were not before
+understood. They terminate on the south in vertical cliffs through which
+the river emerges abruptly. From such features as these the Major named
+this the Plateau Province. The cliffs terminating each plateau form
+intricate escarpments, meandering for many miles, and they might be
+likened to a series of irregular and complicated steps. Occasional high
+buttes and mountain masses break the surface, but in general the whole
+area forming the major part of the basin of the Colorado may be
+described as a plateau country--a land of mesas, cliffs, and canyons.
+
+[Illustration: Labyrinth Canyon--Bowknot Bend.
+
+The Great Loop Is behind the Spectator.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+The next day, September 11th, we were on the river at 7.30, and ran
+about seven miles on smooth water before we stopped for a mid-day rest
+and dinner on the right bank, as well as to enable Beaman to take some
+views he desired. Another three miles and we halted again for
+geologising and for photographs, while Prof., taking Andy in his boat,
+went ahead to establish a camp somewhere below for the night, in order
+that we would not be so late getting supper. The days were now growing
+short, and supper by firelight was a common thing. Rain soon began again
+and put a stop to the work, driving us forward between the scores of
+cascades which soon began to leap anew from every height to the river.
+At one place a waterfall shot out from behind an arch set against the
+wall, making a singular but beautiful effect, and revealing to us one
+method by which some of the arches are formed. The place Prof. had
+selected for camp was reached almost the same time that he got there. It
+was on the left among the greasewood bushes, and there we put up our
+paulins for shelter on oars as before. We had made about fifteen miles.
+The walls receded from the river, forming what the Major named the
+Orange Cliffs, and were much broken, while the back country could be
+seen in places from our boats. Scores, hundreds, multitudes of buttes of
+bare rock of all shapes and sizes were in sight, and one was called the
+Butte of the Cross, because it suggested a cross lying down from one
+position, though from another it was seen to be in reality two distinct
+masses. Here ended Labyrinth Canyon according to the Major's decision.
+We credited it with a length of 62-1/2 miles. Although winding through
+an extremely arid country, it had for us been a place of rain and
+waterfalls, and even though rapids were absent we had been nevertheless
+kept rather wet.
+
+There was not much change in structure between Labyrinth Canyon and the
+following one of the series, Stillwater. The interval was one of
+lowered, much broken walls, well back from the river, leaving wide
+bottom lands on the sides. We went ahead in the morning on quiet water
+for seven or eight miles, and stopped on a high bank for dinner and for
+examinations. Prof., Cap., Steward, and the Major climbed out. Steward
+got separated from the others by trying to reach a rather distant butte,
+and when he tried to rejoin us he had considerable difficulty in doing
+so. For half an hour he searched for a place to get down, and we looked
+for one also from the bottom, and finally he was compelled to go down
+half a mile farther, where he made the descent only to find himself in a
+dense jungle of rose-bushes, willows, and other plants. We had to cut a
+way in to relieve him. The luxuriant growth of these plants seemed to
+indicate that the barrenness of the plateau was due not so much to
+aridity as to the peculiar rock formation, which, disintegrating easily
+under the frosts and rains, prevented the accumulation of soil. The soil
+was washed away by every rain and carried by thousands of cataracts into
+the river. Only when the country reaches the "base level of erosion," as
+the Major called it, would vegetation succeed in holding its place; that
+is when the declivity of the surrounding region became reduced till the
+rain torrents should lack the velocity necessary to transport any great
+load of detritus, and the disintegrated material would accumulate, give
+a footing to plants, and thus further protect itself and the rocks.
+
+[Illustration: Stillwater Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+The Major and Prof. now decided to use up all the photographic material
+between this point and the Dirty Devil, and leave one boat at the latter
+place till the next season, when a party would come in for it and take
+it down to the Paria. We would be obliged to examine the Dirty Devil
+region then in any event. Three miles below our dinner camp we arrived
+at a remarkably picturesque bend, and on the outer circumference we made
+our sixtieth camp, but so late that supper was eaten by firelight. The
+bend was named by Beaman "Bonito," and in the morning he made a number
+of views. The bottom lands along the river had evidently been utilised
+by the aboriginal inhabitants for farming, as fragments of pottery
+occasionally found indicated their presence here in former days. It was
+afternoon when we pushed off and left Bonito Bend behind. After a few
+miles the Major and Prof. tried to climb out, but they failed. A buff
+sandstone, resting on red shale, was vertical for about 140 feet
+everywhere and could not be surmounted. Above this stood another
+vertical wall of five hundred feet, an orange coloured sandstone, in
+which no break was apparent. These walls closed in on the river,
+leaving barely a margin in many places. There were few landings, the
+current, rather swift and smooth, swirling along the foot of the rocks,
+which rose vertically for 250 feet and were about four hundred feet
+apart. As the evening came on we could find no place to stop that
+offered room enough for a camp, and we drifted on and on till almost
+dark, when we discovered a patch of soil on the right that would give us
+sufficient space. The 13th of September happened to be my birthday, and
+Andy had promised to stew a mess of dried apples in celebration. This
+does not sound like a tremendous treat, but circumstances give the test.
+Our supply of rations being limited and now running low, Andy for some
+time had been curbing our appetites. Stewed dried apples were granted
+about once a week, and boiled beans were an equal luxury. It was
+consequently a disappointment not to get the promised extra allowance of
+apples on this occasion. Not only was the hour late, but there was
+little wood to be had, though diligent raking around produced enough
+driftwood to cook our supper of bacon, coffee, and bread. Our camp was
+beneath an overhanging cliff about six hundred feet high, and the walls
+near us were so heavily coated with salt that it could be broken off in
+chunks anywhere. The quarters were not roomy, but we got a good sleep.
+In the morning before he was fairly awake Steward discovered fossils in
+the rocks over his head, and we remained till one o'clock in order that
+an investigation could be made. He collected about a peck of fine
+specimens. When we started again the canyon was so interesting,
+particularly to the geologists, that we stopped several times in a run
+of five miles between vertical walls not over six hundred feet apart.
+Camp was finally made on the right in a sort of alcove, with a level
+fertile bottom of several acres, where the ancients had grown corn.
+Evidences of their former life here were numerous. Steward, climbing on
+the cliffs, suddenly gave a loud shout, announcing a discovery. He had
+found two small huts built into the rocks. Several of us went up to look
+at them. They were of great age and so small that they could have been
+only storage places. Withered and hardened corncobs were found within
+them.
+
+On returning to camp we learned that the Major had found some larger
+house ruins on a terrace some distance up the river. Around the
+camp-fire that evening he told us something about the Shinumos, as he
+called them, who long ago had inhabited this region, and in imagination
+we now beheld them again climbing the cliffs or toiling at their
+agriculture in the small bottom land.
+
+At daylight Steward, Clem, and I went up to the ruins, which stood on a
+terrace projecting in such a way that a clear view could be had up and
+down the river. There were two houses built of stone slabs, each about
+13 x 15 feet, and about six feet of wall were still standing. Thirty
+feet or more below ran the river, and there were remains of an old
+stairway leading down through a crevice to the river, but too much
+disintegrated for us to descend. These were the first ruins of the kind
+I had ever seen, and I was as much interested in them as I afterwards
+was in the Colosseum.
+
+Prof., being desirous of arriving as speedily as possible at the
+junction of the Grand with the Green, which was now not far off, for the
+purpose of getting an observation for time, left us at seven o'clock and
+proceeded in advance, while the remainder of the party turned their
+attention to the locality where we were. We could see traces of an old
+trail up the cliffs, and the Major, Jack, Andy, and Jones started to
+follow this out. With the aid of ropes taken along and stones piled up,
+as well as a cottonwood pole that had been placed as a ladder by the
+ancients, they succeeded in reaching the summit. Clem and I went back to
+the large house ruins for a re-examination, and looked over the
+quantities of broken arrowheads of jasper and the potsherds strewing the
+place in search of specimens of value. On the return trip of the
+climbers Andy discovered an earthen jar, fifteen inches high and about
+twelve inches in diameter, of the "pinched-coil" type, under a
+sheltering rock, covered by a piece of flat stone, where it had rested
+for many a decade if not for a century. It contained a small coil of
+split-willow, such as is used in basketry, tied with cord of aboriginal
+make. Some one had placed it there for a few moments.
+
+After dinner we continued down the canyon, taking the pot with us. The
+walls were nearly vertical on both sides, or at any rate appeared so to
+us from the boats, and they often came straight into the water, with
+here and there a few willows. They were not more than 450 feet apart.
+No rapids troubled us, and the current was less than three miles an
+hour, but we seemed to be going swiftly even without rowing. After about
+seven miles the trend of the chasm became easterly, and we saw the mouth
+of the Grand, the Junction, that hidden mystery which, unless we count
+D. Julien, only nine white men, the Major's first party, had ever seen
+before us. The Grand entered through a canyon similar to that of the
+Green, all the immediate walls being at least 800 feet and the summit of
+the plateau about 1500 feet above the river. On the right was a small
+bench, perhaps one-third of a mile long and several rods wide, fringed
+by a sand-bank, on which we found the crew of the _Nell_ established in
+Camp 62. Between the two rivers was another footing of about two acres,
+bearing several hackberry trees, and it was on this bank up the Grand
+River side that the first party camped. Across on the east shore we
+could see still another strip with some bushes, but there was no more
+horizontal land to be found here. The two rivers blended gracefully on
+nearly equal terms, and the doubled volume started down with reckless
+impetuosity. This was the end of Stillwater Canyon, with a length of
+42-3/4 miles. At last we had finished the canyons of the Green, with
+every boat in good condition and not a man injured in any way, and now
+we stood before the grim jaws of the Colorado. Our descent from Gunnison
+Crossing was 215 feet, with not a rapid that was worth recording, and
+from the Union Pacific crossing in feet, 2215, and in miles, 539. The
+altitude of the Junction is 3860 feet above sea-level.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 13: In fact there was only one practicable place, El Vado de
+los Padres, and that was difficult. The alternative would have been to
+cross Arizona south of the Colorado. By this Gunnison Crossing route
+there were better wood, water, and grass to compensate for distance.]
+
+[Footnote 14: It is here that the Denver and Rio Grande railway crossed,
+bridging the river in 1883. From here also the Brown Expedition started
+in May, 1889, and the Best Expedition in 1891.]
+
+[Footnote 15: Many years afterward on a rock face half-way round this
+bend the inscription, D. Julien 1836 3 Mai, was found. The same
+inscription was also found in two other places just below the mouth of
+Grand River and near the end of Cataract Canyon.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+     A Wonderland of Crags and Pinnacles--Poverty Rations--Fast and
+     Furious Plunging Waters--Boulders Boom along the
+     Bottom--Chilly Days and Shivering--A Wild Tumultuous Chasm--A
+     Bad Passage by Twilight and a Tornado with a Picture
+     Moonrise--Out of one Canyon into Another--At the Mouth of the
+     Dirty Devil at Last.
+
+
+We were on the threshold of what the Major had previously named Cataract
+Canyon, because the declivity within it is so great and the water
+descends with such tremendous velocity and continuity that he thought
+the term rapid failed to interpret the conditions. The addition of the
+almost equal volume of the Grand--indeed it was now a little greater
+owing to extra heavy rains along its course--doubled the depth and
+velocity of the river till it swirled on into the new canyon before us
+with a fierce, threatening intensity, sapping the flat sand-bank on
+which our camp was laid and rapidly eating it away. Large masses with a
+sudden splash would drop out of sight and dissolve like sugar in a cup
+of tea. We were obliged to be on the watch lest the moorings of the
+boats should be loosened, allowing them to sweep pell-mell before us
+down the gorge. The long ropes were carried back to their limit and made
+fast to stakes driven deep into the hard sand. Jack and I became
+dissatisfied with the position of our boat and dropped it down two or
+three hundred yards to a place where the conditions were better, and
+camped by it. There were a few small cottonwoods against the cliff
+behind the sand-bank, but they were too far off to be reached by our
+lines, and the ground beneath them was too irregular and rocky for a
+camp. These trees, with the hackberry trees across the river and
+numerous stramonium bushes in full blossom, composed the chief
+vegetation of this extraordinary locality. No more remote place existed
+at that time within the United States--no place more difficult of
+access. Macomb in his reconnaissance in 1859 had tried hard to arrive
+here, but he got no nearer than the edge of the plateau about thirty
+miles up Grand River.
+
+It was necessary that we should secure topographic notes and
+observations from the summit, and we scanned the surroundings for the
+most promising place for exit. The Major was sure we could make a
+successful ascent to the upper regions by way of a narrow cleft on the
+right or west some distance back up the Green, which he had noted as we
+came along; so in the morning of Saturday, September 16th, he and Jack,
+Beaman, Clem, Jones, and I rowed up in the _Canonita_, the current being
+slow along the west bank, and started up the crevice, dragging the
+cumbrous photographic outfit along. Prof. remained below for
+observations for time. The cleft was filled with fallen rocks, and we
+had no trouble mounting, except that the photographic boxes were like
+lead and the straps across one's chest made breathing difficult. The
+climb was tiring, but there was no obstacle, and we presently emerged on
+the surface of the country 1300 feet above the river and 5160 above the
+sea. Here was revealed a wide cyclorama that was astounding. Nothing was
+in sight but barren sandstone, red, yellow, brown, grey, carved into an
+amazing multitude of towers, buttes, spires, pinnacles, some of them
+several hundred feet high, and all shimmering under a dazzling sun. It
+was a marvellous mighty desert of bare rock, chiselled by the ages out
+of the foundations of the globe; fantastic, extraordinary, antediluvian,
+labyrinthian, and slashed in all directions by crevices; crevices wide,
+crevices narrow, crevices medium, some shallow, some dropping till a
+falling stone clanked resounding into the far hollow depths. Scarcely
+could we travel a hundred yards but we were compelled to leap some deep,
+dark crack. Often they were so wide a running jump was necessary, and at
+times the smooth rock sloped on both sides toward the crevice rather
+steeply. Once the Major came sliding down a bare slope till at a point
+where he caught sight of the edge of a sombre fissure just where he
+must land. He could not see its width; he could not return, and there he
+hung. Luckily I was where by another path I could quickly reach the
+rock below, and I saw that the crevice was not six inches wide, and I
+shouted the joyful news. Steward had not come up with us, but had
+succeeded in ascending through a narrow crevice below camp. He soon
+arrived within speaking distance, but there he was foiled by a crack too
+wide to jump, and he had to remain a stranger to us the rest of the day.
+At a little distance back from the brink these crevices were not so
+numerous nor so wide, and there we discovered a series of extremely
+pretty "parks" lost amidst the million turreted rocks. I made a pencil
+sketch looking out into this Sinav-to-weap, as the Major called it from
+information obtained from the Utes.[16] Beaman secured a number of
+photographs, but not all that were desired, and, as we did not have
+rations for stopping on the summit, we went back to camp and made the
+climb again the next day. Fortunately the recent rains had filled many
+hollows in the bare rock, forming pockets of delicious, pure water,
+where we could drink, but on a hot and dry summer's day travelling here
+would be intolerable, if not impossible. Fragments of arrow-heads, chips
+of chalcedony, and quantities of potsherds scattered around proved that
+our ancient Shinumos had known the region well. Doubtless some of their
+old trails would lead to large and deep water-pockets. There are
+pot-holes in this bare sandstone of enormous size, often several feet in
+depth and of similar diameter, which become filled with rain-water that
+lasts a long time. The Shinumos had numerous dwellings all through this
+country, with trails leading from place to place, highways and byways.
+
+The following day the Major and Jones climbed out on the side opposite
+camp, that is on the east side, where they found an old trail and
+evidences of camping during the summer just closed, probably by the
+Utes. That night, Jones, in attempting to enter our boat in the
+moonlight, stepped on the corner of the hatch of the middle cabin, which
+was not on securely; it tipped, and he was thrown in such a way as to
+severely injure his leg below the knee. This was the first mishap thus
+far to any one of the party.
+
+The Major entertained some idea of making a boat trip up the Grand, but
+he abandoned it, and we prepared for the work ahead. The rations, which
+were now fallen to poverty bulk, were carefully overhauled and evenly
+distributed among the boats, so that the wrecking of any one would not
+deprive us of more than a portion of each article. The amount for daily
+use was also determined; of the bacon we were to have at a meal only
+half the usual quantity. We knew Cataract Canyon was rough, but by this
+time we were in excellent training and thoroughly competent for the kind
+of navigation required; ready for anything that strong boats like ours
+could live through. At ten o'clock on Tuesday, September 19th, the
+cabins were all packed, the life preservers were inflated, and casting
+off from Camp 62 we were borne down with the swift current. The water
+was muddy, of a coffee-and-cream colour, and the river was falling. Not
+far below our camp we saw a beaten trail coming down a singular canyon
+on the left or east side, showing again that the natives understood the
+way in to the Junction.[17] We knew it was not far to rapids, as we had
+seen two heavy ones from the brink above, and we soon heard the familiar
+roar of plunging water, a sound which had been absent since the end of
+Gray Canyon. Presently we were bearing down on the first one, looking
+for the way to pass it. On landing at the head it was seen to be a
+rather rough place, and it was deemed advisable to avoid running it. The
+boats were carefully let down by lines and we went on. In a short
+distance we reached a second rapid, where we decided to repeat the
+operation that took us past the other, but these two let-downs consumed
+much time and gave us hard work. The water was cold, we were wet and
+hungry, and when we arrived at a third that was more forbidding than the
+ones above we halted for dinner at its beginning. The muddy water boomed
+and plunged over innumerable rocks--a mad, irresistible flood. So great
+was the declivity of the river bed that boulders were rolled along under
+water with a sound like distant thunder. We had noticed this also in
+Lodore, but in Cataract it was more common. The rumbling was
+particularly noticeable if one were standing in the water, as we so
+continually were. After dinner the boats were lowered past the rapid,
+but we had no respite, for presently we came upon another big one, then
+another, and another, and then still another, all following quickly and
+giving us plenty of extremely hard work, for we would not risk the boats
+in any of them. When these were behind us we went on a distance and came
+to one that we ran, and then, wet through and shivering till our teeth
+chattered, as well as being hungry and tired, every one was glad to hear
+the decision to go into camp when we arrived at the top of another very
+ugly pair of them. The canyon having a north and south trend and it
+being autumn, the sun disappeared early so far as we were concerned; the
+shadows were deep, the mountain air was penetrating. As soon as possible
+our soaking river garments were thrown off, the dry clothing from the
+rubber bags was put on, the limited bacon was sending its fragrance into
+the troubled air, the bread took on a nice deep brown in the Dutch oven,
+the coffee's aromatic steam drifted from the fire, and warm and
+comfortable we sat down to the welcome though meagre meal. The rule was
+three little strips of bacon, a chunk of bread about the size of one's
+fist, and coffee without stint for each man three times a day. Sugar was
+a scarce article, and I learned to like coffee without it so well that I
+have never taken it with sugar since. The "Tirtaan Aigles" needed now
+all the muscle and energy they could command, and an early hour found
+every man sound asleep. The record for the first day in Cataract Canyon
+was nine miles, with eight bad rapids or cataracts, as they might
+properly be called, and out of the eight we ran but one.[18] The river
+was about 250 feet wide.
+
+[Illustration: Clement Powell
+
+Cataract Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871]
+
+The Major decided the next morning that he would try to get out on the
+right, and he took me with him. We had no great trouble in reaching the
+plateau at an elevation of eighteen hundred feet above the river, where
+we could see an immense area of unknown country. The broken and
+pinnacled character was not so marked as it had been at the Junction,
+but it was still a strange, barren land. We expected to find
+water-pockets on the top, and we had carried with us only one quart
+canteen of water. While the Major was taking notes from the summit of a
+butte, I made a zealous search for water, but not a drop could I find;
+every hole was dry. The sun burned down from a clear sky that melted
+black into eternal space. The yellow sand threw the hot rays upward, and
+so also did the smooth bare rock. No bird, no bee, no thing of life
+could be seen. I came to a whitish cliff upon which I thought there
+might be water-pockets, and I mounted by a steep slope of broken stones.
+Suddenly, almost within touch, I saw before me a golden yellow
+rattlesnake gliding upward in the direction I was going along the cliff
+wall. I killed it with a stone, and cut off the rattles and continued my
+reconnaissance. At length I gave up the search. By the time I had
+returned to the foot of the butte on which the Major was making his
+observations, the heat had exhausted me till I was obliged to rest a few
+moments before ascending the sixty feet to where he was. I had carried
+the canteen all the time, and the water in it was hot from exposure to
+the sun. The Major bade me rest while he made a little fire, and by the
+aid of a can and ground coffee we had brought he made a strong decoction
+with the whole quart. This gave us two cups apiece, and we had some
+bread to go with it. The effect was magical. My fatigue vanished. I felt
+equal to anything, and we began the return.
+
+The Major having no right arm, he sometimes got in a difficult situation
+when climbing, if his right side came against a smooth surface where
+there was nothing opposite. We had learned to go down by the same route
+followed up, because otherwise one is never sure of arriving at the
+bottom, as a ledge half-way down might compel a return to the summit. We
+remembered that at one point there was no way for him to hold on, the
+cliff being smooth on the right, while on the left was empty air, with a
+sheer drop of several hundred feet. The footing too was narrow. I
+climbed down first, and, bracing myself below with my back to the abyss,
+I was able to plant my right foot securely in such a manner that my
+right knee formed a solid step for him at the critical moment. On this
+improvised step he placed his left foot, and in a twinkling had made the
+passage in safety.
+
+During our absence the men below had been at work. Camp was moved down
+the river some three quarters of a mile, while the boats had been
+lowered past the ugly pair of rapids, and were moored at the camp below
+the second. In one the current had "got the bulge," as we called it, on
+the men on the line; that is, the powerful current had hit the bow in
+such a way that the boat took the diagonal of forces and travelled up
+and out into the river. For the men it was either let go or be pulled
+in. They let go, and the boat dashed down with her cargo on board.
+Fortune was on our side. She went through without injury and shot into
+an eddy below. With all speed the men rushed down, and Jack, plunging
+in, swam to her and got on before she could take a fresh start. It was a
+narrow escape, but it taught a lesson that was not forgotten. Prof. had
+succeeded in getting some observations, and all was well. It was bean
+day, too, according to our calendar, and all hands had a treat.
+
+By eight o'clock the next morning, Thursday, September 21st, we were on
+the way again, with the boats "close reefed," as it were, for trouble,
+but one, two, three and one half miles slid easily behind. Then, as if
+to make up for this bit of leniency, six rapids came in close
+succession, though they were of a kind that we could safely run, and all
+the boats went flying through them without a mishap of any kind. The
+next was a plunger so mixed up with rocks that we made a let-down and
+again proceeded a short distance before we were halted by one more of
+the same sort, though we were able to run the lower portion of it. A
+little below this we met a friendly drop, and whizzed through its rush
+and roar in triumph. But there was nothing triumphant about the one
+which followed, so far as our work was concerned. We manoeuvred past
+it with much difficulty only to find ourselves upon two more bad ones.
+Bad as they were, they were nevertheless runable, and away we dashed
+with breakneck speed, certainly not less than twenty miles an hour, down
+both of them, to land on the left immediately at the beginning of a
+great and forbidding descent. These let-downs were difficult, often
+requiring all hands to each boat, except the Major, whose one-armed
+condition made it too hard for him to assist in the midst of rocks and
+rushing water, where one had to be very nimble and leap and balance with
+exactness. Two good arms were barely sufficient. Sometimes, in order to
+pass the gigantic boulders that stretched far off from the shore, the
+boat had to be shot around and hauled in below, an operation requiring
+skill, strength, and celerity.
+
+The walls, very craggy at the top, increased in altitude till they were
+now about sixteen hundred feet, separated from each other by one third
+of a mile. The flaring character of the upper miles of the canyon began
+to change to a narrower gorge, the cliffs showing a nearer approach to
+verticality. At the head of the forbidding plunge we had our slice of
+bacon, with bread and coffee, and then we fought our way down alongside
+amongst immense boulders and roaring water. It was an exceedingly hard
+place to vanquish, and required two and a half hours of the most violent
+exertion to accomplish it. All were necessary to handle each boat.
+Hardly had we passed beyond the turmoil of its fierce opposition than we
+fell upon another scarcely less antagonistic, but yet apparently so free
+from rocks that the Major concluded it could be run. At the outset our
+boat struck on a concealed rock, and for a moment it seemed that we
+might capsize, but luckily she righted, swung free, and swept down with
+no further trouble. The _Nell_ struck the same rock and so did the
+_Canonita_, but neither was injured or even halted. These boats were
+somewhat lighter than ours, having one man less in each, and therefore
+did not hit the rock so hard. The boats were now heavy from being
+water-soaked, for the paint was gone from the bottoms. This would have
+made no difference in any ordinary waters, but it did here, where we
+were obliged to lift them so constantly.
+
+This was an extremely rough and wet day's work, and the moment the great
+cliffs cut off the warmth of the direct sun we were thrown suddenly from
+summer to winter, and our saturated clothing, uncomfortably cool in
+sunlight, became icy with the evaporation and the cold shadow-air. We
+turned blue, and no matter how firmly I tried to shut my teeth they
+rattled like a pair of castanets. Though it was only half-past three,
+the Major decided to camp as soon as he saw this effect, much as we had
+need to push on. We landed on the right, and were soon revived by dry
+clothes and a big fire of driftwood. We had made during the day a total
+distance of a trifle less than seven miles, one and three quarters since
+dinner. There were fourteen rapids and cataracts, nine of which we ran,
+on a river about two hundred feet wide. We had sand to sleep on, but all
+around us were rocks, rocks, rocks, with the mighty bounding cliffs
+lifting up to the sky. Our books for the time being were not disturbed,
+but Whittier's lines, read further up, seemed here exactly appropriate
+to the Colorado:
+
+    "Hurrying down to its grave, the sea,
+    And slow through the rock its pathway hewing!
+    Far down, through the mist of the falling river,
+    Which rises up like an incense ever,
+    The splintered points of the crags are seen,
+    With water howling and vexed between,
+    While the scooping whirl of the pool beneath
+    Seems an open throat, with its granite teeth!"
+
+It was not long before the blankets were taken from the rubber bags and
+spread on the sand, and the rapids, the rocks, and all our troubles were
+forgotten.
+
+The next day was almost a repetition of the preceding one. We began by
+running a graceful little rapid, just beyond which we came to a very bad
+place. The river was narrow and deep, with a high velocity, and the
+channel was filled with enormous rocks. Two hours of the hardest kind of
+work in and out of the water, climbing over gigantic boulders along the
+bank, lifting the boats and sliding them on driftwood skids, tugging,
+pulling, shoving every minute with might and main put us at the bottom.
+No sooner were we past this one than we engaged in a similar battle with
+another of the same nature, and below it we stopped for dinner, amidst
+some huge boulders under a hackberry tree, near another roarer. One of
+these cataracts had a fall of not less than twenty feet in six hundred,
+which gave the water terrific force and violence. The canyon walls
+closed in more and more and ran up to two thousand feet, apparently
+nearly vertical as one looked up at them, but there was always plenty of
+space for landings and camps. Opposite the noon camp we could see to a
+height beyond of at least three thousand feet. We were in the heart of
+another great plateau. After noon we attacked the very bad rapid beside
+whose head we had eaten, and it was half-past three when we had finished
+it. The boats had been considerably pounded and there was a hole in the
+_Dean_, and a plank sprung in the _Nell_ so that her middle cabin was
+half full of water. The iron strip on the _Dean's_ keel was breaking
+off. Repairs were imperative, and on the right, near the beginning of
+one of the worst falls we had yet seen, we went into camp for the rest
+of the day. With false ribs made from oars we strengthened the boats and
+put them in condition for another day's hammering. It seemed as if we
+must have gone this day quite a long distance, but on footing up it was
+found to be no more than a mile and a quarter. Darkness now fell early
+and big driftwood fires made the evenings cheerful. There was a vast
+amount of driftwood in tremendous piles, trees, limbs, boughs, railroad
+ties; a great mixture of all kinds, some of it lying full fifty feet
+above the present level of the river. There were large and small
+tree-trunks battered and limbless, the ends pounded to a spongy mass of
+splinters. Our bright fires enabled us to read, or to write up notes and
+diaries. I think each one but the Major and Andy kept a diary and
+faithfully wrote it up. Jack occasionally gave us a song or two from the
+repertory already described, and Steward did not forget the mouth-organ,
+but through the hardest part of Cataract Canyon we were usually tired
+enough to take to our blankets early.
+
+In the morning we began the day by running a little rapid between our
+camp and the big one that we saw from there, and then we had to exert
+some careful engineering to pass below by means of the lines. This
+accomplished we found a repetition of the same kind of work necessary
+almost immediately, at the next rapid. In places we had to lift the
+boats out and slide them along on driftwood skids. These rapids were
+largely formed by enormous rocks which had fallen from the cliffs, and
+over, around, and between these it was necessary to manoeuvre the
+boats by lines to avoid the furious waters of the outer river. After
+dinner we arrived at a descent which at first glance seemed as bad as
+anything we had met in the morning but an examination showed a prospect
+of a successful run through it. The fall was nearly twenty feet in about
+as many yards. The Major and Prof. examined it long and carefully. A
+successful run would take two minutes, while a let-down would occupy us
+for at least two hours and it had some difficult points. They hesitated
+about running the place, for they would not take a risk that was not
+necessary, but finally they concluded it could be safely accomplished,
+and we pulled the _Dean_ as quickly as possible into the middle of the
+river and swung down into it. On both sides the water was hammered to
+foam amidst great boulders and the roar as usual was deafening. Just
+through the centre was a clean, clear chute followed by a long tail of
+waves breaking and snapping like some demon's jaws. As we struck into
+them they swept over us like combers on the beach in a great storm. It
+seemed to me here and at other similar places that we went through some
+of the waves like a needle and jumped to the top of others, to balance
+half-length out of water for an instant before diving to another trough.
+Being in the very bow the waves, it appeared to me, sometimes completely
+submerged me and almost took my breath away with the sudden impact. At
+any rate it was lively work, with a current of fifteen or eighteen miles
+an hour. Beaman had stationed himself where he could get a negative of
+us ploughing through these breakers, but his wet-plates were too slow
+and he had no success. After this came a place which permitted no such
+jaunty treatment. It was in fact three or four rapids following each
+other so closely that, though some might be successfully run, the last
+was not safe, and no landing could be made at its head, so a very long
+let-down was obligatory; but it was an easy one, for each crew could
+take its own boat down without help from the others. Then, tired, wet,
+and cold as usual, we landed on the left in a little cove where there
+was a sandy beach for our Camp 67. We had made less than four miles, in
+which distance there were six rapids, only two of which we ran. At
+another stage of water the number and character of these rapids would be
+changed; some would be easier at higher water, some harder, and the same
+would be true of lower water. Rapids also change their character from
+time to time as rocks are shifted along the bottom and more rocks fall
+from the cliffs or are brought in by side floods. The walls were now
+about two thousand feet, of limestone, with a reddish stain, and they
+were so near together that the sun shone to the bottom only during the
+middle hours of the day in September.
+
+It was now September 24th; a bright and beautiful Sunday broke, the sky
+above clear and tranquil, the river below foaming and fuming between the
+ragged walls in one continuous rapid with merely variations of descent.
+In three quarters of a mile we arrived before the greatest portion of
+the declivity, where, though there seemed to be a clear chute, we did
+not consider it advisable to make the run because of conditions
+following; neither could we make a regular let-down or a portage. The
+least risky method was to carry a line down and when all was ready start
+the boat in at the top alone. In this way when she had gone through, the
+men on the line below were able to bring her up and haul her in before
+reaching the next bad plunge. There was no quiet river anywhere; nothing
+but rushing, swirling, plunging water and rocks. We got past the bad
+spot successfully and went on making one let-down after another for
+about four miles, when we halted at noon for the rest of the day, well
+satisfied with our progress though in distance it appeared so slight.
+The afternoon was spent in repairing boats, working up notes, and taking
+observations. The cliffs were now some 2500 feet in height, ragged and
+broken on their faces, but close together, the narrowest deep chasm we
+had seen. It was truly a terrible place, with the fierce river, the
+giant walls, and the separation from any known path to the outer world.
+I thought of the Major's first trip, when it was not known what kind of
+waters were here. Vertical and impassable falls might easily have barred
+his way and cataracts behind prevented return, so that here in a death
+trap they would have been compelled to plunge into the river or wait for
+starvation. Happly he had encountered no such conditions.
+
+An interesting feature of this canyon was the manner in which huge
+masses of rock lying in the river had been ground into each other by the
+force of the current. One block of sandstone, weighing not less than six
+hundred tons, being thirty or forty feet long by twenty feet square, had
+been oscillated till the limestone boulders on which it rested had
+ground into it at least two feet, fitting closely. Another enormous
+piece was slowly and regularly rocking as the furious current beat upon
+it, and one could feel the movement distinctly. A good night's sleep
+made all of us fresh again, and we began the Monday early. Some worked
+on the boats, while Beaman and Clem went up "Gypsum" Canyon, as Steward
+named it, for views, and the Major and I climbed out for topographic
+observations. We reached an altitude above camp of 3135 feet at a point
+seven or eight miles back from the brink. The view in all directions
+was beyond words to describe. Mountains and mountains, canyons, cliffs,
+pinnacles, buttes surrounded us as far as we could see, and the range
+was extensive. The Sierra La Sal, the Sierra Abajo, and other short
+ranges lay blue in the distance, while comparatively near in the
+south-west rose the five beautiful peaks just beyond the mouth of the
+Dirty Devil, composing the unknown range before mentioned. At noon we
+made coffee, had lunch, and then went on. It was four o'clock by the
+time we concluded to start back, and darkness overtook us before we were
+fairly down the cliffs, but there was a bright moon, and by its aid we
+reached camp.
+
+At half-past eight in the morning of September 26th we were again
+working our way down the torrential river. Anybody who tries to go
+through here in any haphazard fashion will surely come to grief. It is a
+passage that can safely be made only with the most extreme caution. The
+walls grew straighter, and they grew higher till the gorge assumed
+proportions that seemed to me the acme of the stupendous and
+magnificent. The scenery may not have been beautiful in the sense that
+an Alpine lake is beautiful, but in the exhibition of the power and
+majesty of nature it was sublime. There was the same general barrenness:
+only a few hackberry trees, willows, and a cottonwood or two along the
+margin of the river made up the vegetation. Our first task was a
+difficult let-down, which we accomplished safely, to find that we could
+run two rapids following it and half of another, landing then to
+complete it by a let-down. Then came a very sharp drop that we ran,
+which put us before another easy one, that was followed by a difficult
+bit of navigation through a bad descent, after which we stopped for
+dinner on the right at the head of another rapid. The cliffs now on both
+sides were about 2800 feet, one quarter mile wide at top, and in places
+striking me as being perpendicular, especially in the outer curve of the
+bends. The boats seemed to be scarcely more than chips on the sweeping
+current and we not worth mentioning. During the afternoon we halted a
+number of times for Beaman to make photographs, but the proportions were
+almost too great for any camera. The foreground parts are always
+magnified, while the distances are diminished, till the view is not that
+which the eye perceives. Before stopping for the night we ran three
+more rapids, and camped on the right on a sandbank at the head of
+another forbidding place. The record for the whole day was six and three
+quarter miles, with ten runs and two let-downs. At one bad place the
+_Nell_ got too far over and laboured so heavily in the enormous billows
+that Cap., who pulled the bow oars, was completely lost to sight and the
+boat was filled with water. Only about thirty degrees of sky were
+visible as one looked directly up from our camp. A pretty canyon came in
+near camp, and some of us took a walk up its narrow way.
+
+[Illustration: Cataract Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+In the morning Beaman made some pictures, and it was eleven o'clock
+before we resumed our navigation. Our first work was a let-down, which
+took an hour, and about a mile below we stopped for dinner on the left.
+Then we continued, making eight miles more, in which distance we ran six
+rapids and made two line-portages. The last rapid was a bad one, and
+there we made one of the portages, camping at its foot on the left bank.
+The walls began to diminish in height and the river was less
+precipitous, as is apparent from the progress we were able to make.
+September 28th we began by running two rapids immediately below camp,
+and the _Nell_ remained at the foot of the second to signal Beaman in
+the _Canonita_, as he had stayed behind to take some views. Another mile
+brought us to a rather bad place, the right having a vertical cliff
+about 2700 feet high, but the left was composed of boulders spread over
+a wide stretch, so that an excellent footing was offered. The Major and
+Prof. concluded to climb out here, instead of a point farther down
+called Millecrag Bend, and, appointing Steward master of the let-down
+which was necessary, they left us. It was dinner-time when we got the
+boats below to a safe cove, and we were quite ready for the meal which
+Andy meanwhile had been cooking. A beautiful little brook came down a
+narrow canyon on the left, and it was up this stream that the Major went
+for a mile and a half and then climbed on the side. They were obliged to
+give it up and come back to the bottom. By this time it was too late to
+make another attempt, so they turned their backs on "Failure Creek,"
+and, returning to us, said we would go on as soon as we had eaten the
+supper which Andy was preparing. They would climb out at Millecrag Bend.
+Andy had cooked a mess of beans, about the last we had, and what we did
+not eat we put on board in the kettle, which had a tight cover. The
+Major's manner for a day or two had been rather moody, and when Prof.
+intimated to me that we would have a lively time before we saw another
+camp, I knew some difficult passage ahead was on his mind; some place
+which had given him trouble on the first trip.
+
+About five o'clock we were ready; everything was made snug and tight on
+the boats, nothing being left out of the cabins but a camp kettle in
+each standing-room for bailing, and we cast off. Each man had his
+life-preserver where he could get it quickly, and the Major put his on,
+for with only one arm he could not do this readily in case of necessity.
+The current was swift. We were carried rapidly down to where the gorge
+narrowed up with walls vertical on each side for a height of fifty to
+one hundred feet. We soon dashed through a small rough rapid. A splash
+of water over our bow dampened my clothes and made the air feel chilly.
+The canyon was growing dim with the evening light. High above our heads
+some lazy clouds were flecked with the sunset glow. Not far below the
+small rapid we saw before us a complicated situation at the prevailing
+stage of water, and immediately landed on the left, where there was
+footing to reconnoitre. A considerable fall was divided by a rocky
+island, a low mass that would be submerged with two or three feet more
+water, and the river plunging down on each side boiled against the
+cliffs. Between us and the island the stream was studded by immense
+boulders which had dropped from the cliffs and almost like pinnacles
+stood above the surface. One view was enough to show that on this stage
+of water we could not safely run either side of the cataract; indeed
+destruction would surely have rewarded any attempt. The right-hand
+channel from the foot of the island swept powerfully across to meet the
+left-hand one and together they boomed along the base of the left-hand
+cliffs before swinging sharply to the right with the trend of the chasm
+in that direction. There was no choice of a course. The only way was to
+manoeuvre between the great boulders and keep in the dividing line of
+the current till a landing could be effected on the head of the island
+between the two falls. The difficulty was to avoid being drawn to either
+side. Our boat went first and we succeeded, under the Major's quick eye
+and fine judgment, in easily following the proposed course till the
+_Dean_ began to bump on the rocks some twenty yards above the exposed
+part of the island. I tested the depth of water here with an oar as Jack
+pulled slowly along, the current being quite slack in the dividing line,
+and as soon as practicable we jumped overboard and guided our craft
+safely to the island. Prof. in the _Nell_ was equally precise, and as he
+came in we waded out to catch his boat; but the _Canonita_ passed on the
+wrong side of one of the pinnacles and, caught in the left current, came
+near making a run of it down that side, which would have resulted
+disastrously. Luckily they were able to extricate themselves and Beaman
+steered in to us. Had the water been only high enough to prevent landing
+on this island we would have been in a bad trap, but had it been so high
+as to make navigation down the centre possible the rapid might perhaps
+have been run safely.
+
+We were now on the island, with darkness falling, and the problem was to
+get off. While Prof. and the Major went down to the foot to make a plan
+we sat in the diminishing light and waited. It was decided to pull the
+boats down the right-hand side of the island as far as the foot of the
+worst part of the right-hand rapid, and from there cut out into the tail
+of waves, pulling through as quickly as we could to avoid contact with
+the base of the left wall along which the current dashed. We must pull
+fast enough to get across in the very short time it would take the river
+to sweep us down to the crucial point. The gorge by this time was quite
+sombre; even the clouds above were losing their evening colour. We must
+act quickly. Our boat as usual made the first trial. As we shot out,
+Jack and I bent to our oars with every muscle we possessed, the boat
+headed slightly upstream, and in a few seconds we were flying along the
+base of the cliffs, and so close that our starboard oars had to be
+quickly unshipped to prevent their being broken. In a few seconds more
+we were able to get out into the middle, and then we halted in an eddy
+to wait for the other boats. They came on successfully and in the
+gloaming we continued down the canyon looking for a place to camp, our
+hearts much lightened with our triumph over the difficult rapid. Before
+long night was full upon us and our wet clothes made us shiver. About a
+mile below a warning roar dead ahead told us to make land at once, for
+it would be far from prudent to attack a rapid in the dark. Fortunately
+there was here room to camp on some rocks and sand on the right.
+Scarcely had we become settled than a tornado broke over the canyon and
+we were enveloped in a blinding whirl of rain and sand. Each man clung
+to his blankets to prevent their departure and waited for the wind to
+pass, which it did in less than ten minutes. The storm-clouds were
+shattered and up the gorge, directly east from our position, from behind
+a thousand needle-like spires that serrated the top of the cliffs, the
+moon like a globe of dazzling silver rolled up with serene majesty,
+flooding the canyon with a bright radiance. No moon-rise could have been
+more dramatic. The storm-clouds were edged with light and the wet cliffs
+sparkled and glittered as if set with jewels. Even the rapid below was
+resplendent and silvery, the leaping waves and the spray scintillating
+under the lustrous glare.
+
+Morning brought a continuation of the rain, which fell in a deluge,
+driving us to the shelter of a projecting ledge, from which
+comparatively dry retreat we watched the rain cascades that soon began
+their display. Everywhere they came plunging over the walls, all sizes,
+and varying their volume with every variation in the downpour. Some
+dropped a thousand feet to vanish in spray; others were broken into many
+falls. By half-past eight we were able to proceed, running the rapid
+without any trouble, but a wave drenched me so that all my efforts to
+keep out of the rain went for nothing. By ten o'clock we had run four
+more rapids, and arrived at the place the Major had named Millecrag
+Bend, from the multitude of ragged pinnacles into which the cliffs
+broke. On the left we camped to permit the Major and Prof. to make their
+prospective climb to the top. A large canyon entered from the left,
+terminating Cataract Canyon, which we credited with forty-one miles, and
+in which I counted sixty-two rapids and cataracts, enough to give any
+set of boatmen all the work they could desire. The Major and Prof.
+reached the summit at an altitude of fifteen hundred feet. They had a
+wide view over the unknown country, and saw mountains to the west with
+snow on their summits. Snow in the canyons would not have surprised us
+now, for the nights were cold and we had warmth only in the middle of
+the day. Near our camp some caves were discovered, twenty feet deep and
+nearly six feet in height, which had once been occupied by natives.
+Walls had been laid across the entrances, and inside were corncobs and
+other evidences usual in this region, now so well known. Pottery
+fragments were also abundant. Another thing we found in the caves and
+also in other places was a species of small scorpion. These venomous
+creatures were always ready to strike, and somehow one got into Andy's
+shoe, and when he put on the shoe he was bitten. No serious result
+seemed to follow, but his general health was not so good after this for
+a long time. He put tobacco on the wound and let it go. This was the
+second accident to a member of the party, which now had been out four
+months.
+
+[Illustration: Narrow Canyon.
+
+Photograph by Best Expedition, 1891.]
+
+The last day of September found us up before daylight, and as soon as
+breakfast was eaten, a small matter these days both in preparation and
+consumption, we pulled away, intending to reach the mouth of the Dirty
+Devil as soon as possible. The morning was decidedly autumnal, and when
+we arrived at a small rapid, where we had to get overboard to help the
+boats, nothing ever came harder than this cold bath, though it was
+confined to our legs. Presently we saw a clear little rivulet coming in
+on the left, and we ran up to that shore to examine it, hoping it was
+drinkable. Like the first party, we were on the lookout for better water
+to drink than the muddy Colorado. The rivulet proved to be sulphurous
+and also hot, the temperature being about 91 F. We could not drink it,
+but we warmed our feet by standing in the water. The walls of this new
+canyon at their highest were about thirteen hundred feet, and so close
+together and straight that the Major named it Narrow Canyon. Its length
+is about nine miles. Through half of the next rapid we made a let-down,
+running the remainder, and then, running two more below which were easy,
+we could see through to the end of the canyon, and the picture framed by
+the precipices was beautiful. The world seemed suddenly to open out
+before us, and in the middle of it, clear and strong against a sky of
+azure, accented by the daylight moon, stood the Unknown Mountains, weird
+and silent in their untrodden mystery. By this token we knew that the
+river of the Satanic name was near, and we had scarcely emerged from
+Narrow Canyon, and noted the low bluffs of homogeneous red sandstone
+which took the place of the high cliffs, when we perceived a sluggish
+stream about 150 feet wide flowing through the barren sandstone on our
+right. Landing on its west bank, we instantly agreed with Jack Sumner
+when on the first trip he had proclaimed it a "Dirty Devil." Muddy,
+alkaline, undrinkable, it slipped along between the low walls of smooth
+sandstone to add its volume to that of the Colorado. Near us were the
+remains of the Major's camp-fire of the other voyage, and there Steward
+found a jack-knife lost at that time. At the Major's request he gave it
+to him as a souvenir.
+
+Our rising had been so early and our progress from Millecrag Bend so
+easy that when our camp was established the hour was only nine o'clock,
+giving us still a whole day. The Major and Prof. started off on an old
+Indian trail to see if there was a way in to this place for horses, Cap.
+took observations for time, and the others occupied themselves in
+various ways, Andy counting the rations still left in our larder.
+
+That night around our camp-fire we felt especially contented, for
+Cataract and Narrow canyons were behind, and never would we be called
+upon to battle with their rapids again. The descent from the mouth of
+Grand River was 430 feet, most of it in the middle stretch of Cataract
+Canyon.
+
+[Illustration: The Mouth of Fremont River (The Dirty Devil River)
+
+Photograph by the Brown Expedition, 1889]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 16: The pencil sketches I made on this trip were taken to
+Washington, but I do not know what became of them.]
+
+[Footnote 17: As mentioned in a previous footnote, the name D.
+Julien--1836, was later found near this point and in two other places.
+All these inscriptions appear to be on the same side of the river, the
+east, and at accessible places.]
+
+[Footnote 18: The next party to pass through this canyon was the Brown
+Expedition, conducting a survey for the Denver, Colorado Canyon, and
+Pacific Railway in 1889. At the first rapid they lost a raft, with
+almost all their provisions, and they had much trouble. See _The Romance
+of the Colorado River_, Chapter xiv. Another expedition in 1891--the
+Best Expedition--was wrecked here.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+     The _Canonita_ Left Behind--Shinumo Ruins--Troublesome Ledges
+     in the River--Alcoves and Amphitheatres--The Mouth of the San
+     Juan--Starvation Days and a Lookout for Rations--El Vado de
+     Los Padres--White Men Again--Given up for Lost--Navajo
+     Visitors--Peaks with a Great Echo--At the Mouth of the Paria.
+
+
+Having now accomplished a distance down this turbulent river of nearly
+six hundred miles, with a descent toward sea-level of 2645 feet, without
+a serious accident, we were all in a happy frame of mind,
+notwithstanding the exceedingly diminutive food supply that remained. We
+felt that we could overcome almost anything in the line of rapids the
+world might afford, and Steward declared our party was so efficient he
+would be willing to "run the Gates of Hell" with them! Barring an
+absence of heat Cataract Canyon had been quite a near approach to that
+unwelcome entrance, and the locality of the mouth of the Dirty Devil
+certainly resembled some of the more favoured portions of Satan's
+notorious realm. Circumstances would prohibit our lingering here, for
+our long stretch on short rations made the small amount we could allow
+ourselves at each meal seem almost like nothing at all, and we were
+desirous of reaching as soon as possible El Vado, something over a
+hundred miles below, where our pack-train was doubtless now waiting.
+
+The plan of leaving a boat at this place for a party to bring down,
+which should penetrate the unknown country the next year and then
+complete what we might now be compelled to slight, was carried out.
+The _Canonita_ was chosen and the day after our arrival, Sunday,
+October 1st, we ran her down a short distance on the right, and there
+carried her back about two hundred feet to a low cliff and up thirty
+or forty feet above the prevailing stage of water, where we hid her
+under an enormous mass of rock which had so fallen from the top as to
+lodge against the wall, forming a perfect shelter somewhat longer than
+the boat. All of her cargo had been left at camp and we filled her
+cabins and standing-rooms with sand, also piling sand and stones all
+about her to prevent high water from carrying her off. When we were
+satisfied that we had done our best we turned away feeling as one
+might on leaving a friend, and hoping that she would be found intact
+the following year. As nine o'clock only had arrived, the Major and
+Jones then climbed out from this place, while Prof. with the _Nell_
+ran down about a mile and a half to the mouth of a gulch on the right
+where he and the Major had traced the old trail. The rest of us
+returned to camp. Prof. and Cap. climbed out, after following the
+trail up the gulch six miles, and they saw that it went toward the
+Unknown Mountains, which now lay very near us on the west. Steward got
+out by an attempt not so far up the canyon and reached an altitude of
+1950 feet, where he had a clear, full view of the mountains. With his
+glass he was able to study their formation and determined that lava
+from below had spread out between the sedimentary strata, forming what
+he called "blisters." He could see where one side of a blister had
+been eroded, showing the surrounding stratification.[19]
+
+When the Major and Jones came back we put the cargo of the _Canonita_ on
+the _Dean_, and all of us embarked, seven in number, and ran down to
+where the _Nell_ was moored. Here we camped for the night. The crews
+were then rearranged, Beaman being assigned to my bow oars, Clem and
+Andy going in the _Nell_, while I was to sit on the middle cabin of the
+_Dean_ in front of the Major, where I could carry on my sketching. We
+were now a shaggy-looking lot, for our clothes had been almost worn off
+our bodies in the rapids. Our shoes, notwithstanding that the Major had
+brought us a fresh supply at Gunnison Crossing, were about gone, and we
+were tanned till we could hardly have been distinguished from the old
+Shinumos themselves; but we were clean. Steward was a great lover of
+Burns and could quote him by the page, though what he most liked to
+repeat just now was:
+
+    "O wad some Power the giftie gie us
+    To see oursels as others see us!"
+
+I think the _Address to the Deil_ would have been appropriate for this
+particular environment, but I do not remember that Steward quoted:
+
+    "Hear me, auld Hangie, for a wee,
+    An' let poor damned bodies be;
+    I'm sure sma' pleasure it can gie,
+                    E'en to the deil,
+    To skelp an' scaud poor dogs like me,
+                    An' hear us squeel!"
+
+The cargo of the _Canonita_ was distributed among the cabins of the
+_Dean_ and the _Nell_, and Cap. was somewhat disturbed by having an
+addition to the bow compartment in the _Nell_. Each man had charge of a
+cabin and this was Cap.'s special pride. He daily packed it so
+methodically that it became a standing joke with us, and we often asked
+him whether he always placed that thermometer back of the fifth rib or
+in front of the third, or some such nonsensical question, which of
+course Cap. took in good part and only arranged his cabin still more
+carefully.
+
+The next morning, the 2d of October, at eight o'clock, we continued our
+voyage, now entering a new canyon, then called Mound, but it was
+afterwards consolidated with the portion below called Monument, and
+together they now stand as Glen Canyon. In about three and one half
+miles we ran several sharp little rapids, but they were not of much
+consequence, and we stopped to examine a house ruin we saw standing up
+boldly on a cliff on the left. It could be seen for a long distance in
+both directions, and correspondingly its inmates in the old days could
+see every approach. Doubtless the trail we had seen on the right had its
+exit on the other side near it. The walls, neatly built of thin
+sandstone slabs, still stood about fifteen feet high and fifteen inches
+thick. The dimensions on the ground were 12 x 22 feet outside. It had
+been of two or three stories, and exhibited considerable skill on the
+part of the builders, the corners being plumb and square. Under the
+brink of the cliff was a sort of gallery formed by the erosion of a soft
+shale between heavy sandstone beds, forming a floor and roof about eight
+or ten feet wide, separated by six or seven feet in vertical height. A
+wall had been carried along the outer edge, and the space thus made was
+divided by cross walls into a number of rooms. Potsherds and
+arrow-heads, mostly broken ones, were strewn everywhere. There were also
+numerous picture-writings, of which I made copies.
+
+As we pulled on and on the Major frequently recited selections from the
+poets, and one that he seemed to like very much, and said sometimes half
+in reverie, was Longfellow's:
+
+    "Often I think of the beautiful town
+        That is seated by the sea;
+      Often in thought go up and down
+      The pleasant streets of that dear old town,
+        And my youth comes back to me.
+      And a verse of a Lapland song
+        Is haunting my memory still:
+        'A boy's will is the wind's will,
+    And the thoughts of youth are long, long thoughts.'"
+
+He would repeat several times, with much feeling:
+
+        "A boy's will is the wind's will,
+    And the thoughts of youth are long, long thoughts."
+
+Another thing he enjoyed repeating was Whittier's _Skipper Ireson's
+Ride_:
+
+    "Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart,
+    Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart
+    By the women of Marblehead!"
+
+Towards evening we came to another Shinumo ruin, where we made camp,
+having run altogether sixteen miles, with ten rapids, all small, between
+walls of red, homogeneous sandstone, averaging about one thousand feet
+in height. The river, some three hundred and fifty feet wide, was low,
+causing many shoals, which formed the small rapids. We often had to wade
+alongside to lighten the boats, but otherwise these places were easy. A
+trifle more water would have done away with them, or at least would have
+enabled us to ignore them completely. The house ruin at our camp was
+very old and broken down and had dimensions of about 20 x 30 feet. Prof.
+climbed out to a point 1215 feet above the river, where he saw plainly
+the Unknown Mountains, Navajo Mountain, and a wide sweep of country
+formed largely of barren sandstone. Steward felt considerably under the
+weather and remained as quiet as possible.
+
+In the morning we were quickly on the water, pushing along under
+conditions similar to those of the previous day, making twenty-seven
+miles and passing eleven very small rapids, with a river four hundred
+feet wide and the same walls of homogeneous red sandstone about one
+thousand feet high. The cliffs in the bends were often slightly
+overhanging, that is, the brink was outside of a perpendicular line,
+but the opposite side would then generally be very much cut down,
+usually to irregular, rounded slopes of smooth rock. The vertical
+portions were unbroken by cracks or crevices or ledges, being extensive
+flat surfaces, beautifully stained by iron, till one could imagine all
+manner of tapestry effects. Along the river there were large patches of
+alluvial soil which might easily be irrigated, though it is probable
+that at certain periods they would be rapidly cut to pieces by high
+water.
+
+Prof. again climbed out at our noon camp, and saw little but naked
+orange sandstone in rounded hills, except the usual mountains. In the
+barren sandstone he found many pockets or pot-holes, a feature of this
+formation, often thirty or forty feet deep, and frequently containing
+water. Wherever we climbed out in this region we saw in the depressions
+flat beds of sand, surrounded by hundreds of small round balls of stone
+an inch or so in diameter, like marbles--concretions and hard fragments
+which had been driven round and round by the winds till they were quite
+true spheres.[20]
+
+The next day, October 4th, we ran into a stratum of sandstone shale,
+which at this low stage of water for about five miles gave us some
+trouble. Ledge after ledge stretched across the swift river, which at
+the same time spread to at least six hundred feet, sometimes one
+thousand. We were obliged to walk in the water alongside for great
+distances to lighten the boats and ease them over the ridges.
+Occasionally the rock bottom was as smooth as a ballroom floor; again it
+would be carved in the direction of the current into thousands of
+narrow, sharp, polished ridges, from three to twelve inches apart, upon
+which the boats pounded badly in spite of all exertions to prevent it.
+The water was alternately shallow and ten feet deep, giving us all we
+could do to protect the boats and at the same time avoid sudden duckings
+in deep water. With all our care the _Nell_ got a bad knock, and leaked
+so fast that one man continually bailing could barely keep the water
+out. We repaired her at dinner-time, and, the shales running up above
+the river, we escaped further annoyance from this cause. Even with this
+interference our progress was fairly good, and by camping-time we had
+made twenty-one miles.
+
+We had a rapid shallow river again the following day, October 5th, but
+the water was not so widely spread out and there were fewer delays. The
+walls were of orange sandstone, strangely cut up by narrow side canyons
+some not more than twenty feet wide and twisting back for a quarter of a
+mile where they expanded into huge amphitheatres, domed and cave-like.
+Alcoves filled with trees and shrubs also opened from the river, and
+numerous springs were noted along the cliffs. Twelve miles below our
+camp we passed a stream coming in on the left through a canyon about one
+thousand feet deep, similar to that of the Colorado. This was the San
+Juan, now shallow and some eight rods wide. We did not stop till noon
+when we were two miles below it near one of the amphitheatres or
+grottoes to which the first party had given the name of "Music Temple."
+The entrance was by a narrow gorge which after some distance widened at
+the bottom to about five hundred feet in diameter leaving the upper
+walls arching over till they formed a dome-shaped cavern about two
+hundred feet high with a narrow belt of sky visible above. In the
+farther end was a pool of clear water, while five or six green
+cottonwoods and some bushes marked the point of expansion. One side was
+covered with bright ferns, mosses, and honeysuckle. Every whisper or
+cough resounded. This was only one of a hundred such places but we had
+no time to examine them. On a smooth space of rock we found carved by
+themselves the names of Seneca Howland, O. G. Howland, and William Dunn,
+the three men of the first party who were killed by the Shewits in 1869.
+Prof. climbed up eight hundred feet and had a fine view of Navajo
+Mountain which was now very near. We then chiefly called it Mount
+Seneca Howland, applied by the Major in memory of that unfortunate
+person but later, the peak already having to some extent been known as
+Navajo Mountain, that name was finally adopted. No one had ever been to
+it, so far as we knew, and the Major was desirous of reaching the
+summit.
+
+[Illustration: Glen Canyon.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+Leaving the Music Temple, which seemed to us a sort of mausoleum to the
+three men who had marked it with their names, we soon arrived at a
+pretty rapid with a clear chute. It was not large but it was the only
+real one we had seen in this canyon and we dashed through it with
+pleasure. Just below we halted to look admiringly up at Navajo Mountain
+which now loomed beside us on the left to an altitude of 10,416 feet
+above sea level or more than 7100 feet above our position, as was later
+determined. The Major contemplated stopping long enough for a climb to
+the top but on appealing to Andy for information as to the state of the
+supplies he found we were near the last crust and he decided that we had
+better pull on as steadily as possible towards El Vado. We ran down a
+considerable distance through some shallows and camped on the left
+having accomplished about twenty miles in the day towards our goal. Here
+the remaining food was divided into two portions, one for supper, the
+other for breakfast in the morning. Though we were running so close to
+the starvation line we felt no great concern about it. We always had
+confidence in our ability somehow to get through with success. Andy,
+particularly, never failed in his optimism. Generally he took no
+interest in the nature of a rapid, lying half asleep while the others
+examined the place, and entirely willing to run anything or make a
+portage or even swim; he cared not. "Nothing ever happens to any outfit
+I belong to," he would declare shifting to an easier position, "Let her
+go!" and now so far as Andy's attitude was concerned we might have
+possessed unlimited rations. Jack lightened the situation yet more with
+his jolly songs and humorous expressions and no one viewing that camp
+would have thought the ten men had before them a possibility of several
+days without food, except what they might kill in the barren country,
+and perhaps a walk from El Vado over an unknown trail about one hundred
+miles out to Kanab. In the morning, Friday, October 6th, we got away as
+quickly as we could and pulled down the river hoping that El Vado was
+not far ahead and feeling somewhat as Escalante must have felt a century
+before when he was trying to find it. He had the advantage of having
+horses which could be eaten from time to time. Of course we knew from
+the position of the San Juan and of Navajo Mountain, that we could reach
+El Vado in at most two days, but the question was, "would we find any
+one there with rations?" The Major apparently was unconcerned. He told
+me a story about a farmer's son in his neighbourhood when himself a boy
+who had no shoes, no good clothes, no decent hat, but who went to the
+father and declared he wanted a "buzzum pin," and nothing but a buzzum
+pin would he have, though his parent called his attention to his lack of
+other necessaries, one after the other. "No Pa," the boy would repeat "I
+want a buzzum pin."
+
+[Illustration: Looking down upon Glen Canyon.
+
+Cut through homogeneous sandstone.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Colo. Riv. Exp.]
+
+As we rowed along the Major sang softly another of his favourites:
+
+    "Flow gently, sweet Afton! among thy green braes,
+    Flow gently, I'll sing thee a song in thy praise;
+    My Mary's asleep by thy murmuring stream--
+    Flow gently, sweet Afton, disturb not her dream."
+
+The almost vertical walls ran from two hundred to one thousand feet in
+height, cut by many very narrow side canyons opening into large glens or
+alcoves. On and on we steadily pulled till noon, making 13-1/2 miles
+when we stopped on the right on a sandstone ledge against a high cliff.
+Andy had a few scraps left, among them a bit of bacon which Jack
+enterprisingly used for baiting a hook and soon drew out several small
+fish, so that after all we had quite a dinner. The walls became more
+broken as we went on apparently with numerous opportunities for entrance
+from the back country, though the sandstone even where not very steep
+was so smooth that descent over it would be difficult. We had gone about
+three miles after dinner when we saw a burned place in the brush on the
+right where there was quite a large piece of bottom land. We thought
+this might be some signal for us but we found there only the tracks of
+two men and horses all well shod proving that they were not natives.
+About three miles farther down we caught a glimpse of a stick with a
+white rag dangling from it stuck out from the right bank, and at the
+same moment heard a shot. On landing and mounting the bank we found
+Captain Pardyn Dodds and two prospectors, George Riley and John
+Bonnemort, encamped beside a large pile of rations. Dodds was one of
+the men with Old Jacob who had tried desperately to reach the mouth of
+the Dirty Devil with our supplies. He thought he had arrived at a point
+where he could see it and went back to inform Jacob when they received
+an order from the Major to come to this place, El Vado de los Padres, by
+September 25th, and here he was. Jacob had come with him but had gone on
+to Fort Defiance, the Navajo Agency, to settle some Indian business,
+leaving him to guard the rations. Having left Kanab early in September
+they had no late news. They had become discouraged by our non-appearance
+and concluded that we would never be heard from again. Consequently they
+had planned to cache the rations and leave for the settlement on Sunday.
+That night Andy was able to summon us to "go fur" the first "square"
+meal we had eaten for nearly a month. There was among the supplies some
+plug tobacco which we cut up, all but Steward, Prof., and Cap. who did
+not smoke, and rolled in cigarettes with thick yellow paper, the only
+kind we had, having learned to make them Spanish fashion from the
+Hamblins, and we smoked around the fire talking to Dodds and the
+prospectors over the general news. They told us they had found small
+quantities of gold along the river. A great many papers, magazines, and
+letters for everybody were in the packs supplying us with reading matter
+enough for weeks. Though the papers were of ancient dates they were new
+to us.
+
+The whole next day was consumed in preparing maps, notes, specimens,
+fossils, etc., to be sent by pack-train to the settlement of Kanab one
+hundred miles off whither the Major himself had decided to start with
+the outfit the next morning and go from there to Salt Lake City about
+400 miles north. None of us had a chance to write even a line to
+expectant relatives far away and we were naturally disappointed till
+Prof. persuaded the Major to hold over till Tuesday which he willingly
+did when he realised the situation. We wrote late by the light of a
+diminutive fire, wood being scarce. He then left us on October 10th with
+Jack, Captain Dodds, and the miners who had waited only to learn
+something about the river above as a place for prospecting. The trail up
+over the barren sandstone was so steep and smooth that two of the
+pack-animals lost their footing and rolled back to the bottom but
+received no injury except scraping the skin off their knees.
+
+Not the least welcome articles among the supplies were a pair of good
+heavy shoes and a pair of strong overalls, which the foresight of the
+Major had secured for each one of us, our clothing, as before
+mentioned, having been completely worn out. My watch, which I had
+carried all the way in a little rubber pocket sewed to my shirt near the
+neck, where it seldom got wet enough to stop it, though occasionally it
+refused to go till I punched it up with a large pin kept for the
+purpose, which my wicked companions called my "starting bar," at last
+had stopped permanently, and I sent it out by Jack for repairs. After
+they had gone we settled down again to our accustomed labours. We were
+to run down thirty-five miles farther to the mouth of the Paria, whence
+there was another known trail to the settlement, and cache the boats.
+The pack-train was to come back to us there with additional supplies and
+horses and take us out to Kanab, where we were to make headquarters for
+our winter explorations in the practically unknown Grand Canyon region
+as well as in that to the eastward. During this interval we expected to
+discover some point between the Paria and Diamond Creek where rations
+could be brought in to us while working through the Grand Canyon the
+next season. We did not then know that the winter is the safest and best
+time for making the passage through that wonderful gorge.[21]
+
+Our appetites were now enormous, and as we could eat all we wanted, the
+supplies diminished in an astonishing way, but as we were soon to
+receive more we did not care. Every man braced up; all but Steward, who
+felt quite sick. Jones began to feel trouble brewing in the leg which he
+had hurt at the Junction; Andy showed the effects of the scorpion bite
+by becoming thin and pale, thinner than our previous lack of rations
+justified; Cap., who had been shot in the Civil War through and through
+near the heart, now felt the effects of the long exposure; and neither
+Clem nor Beaman considered their health perfect. Altogether, however, we
+had come through very well. Our worst work was over for this year, and
+the maladies portending seemed not dangerous. Prof., desiring to get
+some notes from up the river, went on the 11th, with Cap., Beaman, and
+Clem, back six miles in the _Dean_ to the foot of some rapid water they
+could not pass. Arriving there about half-past twelve, they spent all
+afternoon going up numerous gulches, trying to find a way out. As there
+was a large area of bottom land, with old camp-fires and much broken
+pottery, they were sure there was a path, but it was late before they
+discovered a place where modern natives had piled brush and stones to
+make a horse trail, and another where the old Shinumos for fifty feet
+had cut steps in the smooth rock. The party followed the Shinumo trail,
+finding the steps in places almost worn out by time, in others still
+quite good and large enough to get the toe of a shoe in. By the time
+they came to the top it was too late for observations, and they returned
+to the river for camp, making the same climb by the steps the next day
+and securing the observations. They got back to our Camp 79 late in the
+afternoon. Meanwhile Steward's illness had increased, and I spent much
+of the night trying to relieve his pain. The air was cold and he was
+most uncomfortable, the only shelter being a wickiup of boughs we had
+built to protect him from the sun. We had opium pills in our medicine
+chest, and I had the little flask of brandy referred to. With several of
+the pills and my brandy, which I at last persuaded him to take as
+medicine (he despised alcoholic drinks), his suffering was somewhat
+relieved, and he was able to lie still on his bed of willows. During the
+next day his condition was no better, and Prof. returning, was much
+distressed by it. By drawing further on the medicine chest, which
+contained numerous remedies, he was able to relieve him a little more.
+The exposure had brought on a trouble of the back which had originally
+developed during the campaigns of the Civil War.
+
+[Illustration: Tom.
+
+A Typical Navajo.
+
+Photograph by Wittick.
+
+Tom became educated and no longer looked like an Indian.]
+
+Before leaving this point Prof. wanted some observations from the
+heights, and he and Cap. tried to climb the near-by cliffs, but failed.
+They then took a hammer and chisel, and by cutting "holds" in the
+sandstone after the manner of the old Shinumos, they got up 850 feet and
+secured the bearings Prof. desired. The following day they went out on
+the trail toward Kanab five miles, trying to find another point of exit
+to the summit, but did not succeed. While they were gone we heard a
+sudden shout, and saw an Indian standing on the rocks not far away. We
+beckoned for him to come, and thereupon he fell back to another, and
+together they approached. We saw by their dress, so different from the
+Ute (red turbans, loose unbleached cotton shirts, native woven sashes at
+the waist, wide unbleached cotton trousers reaching to a little below
+the knee and there slashed up on the outer side for seven or eight
+inches, bright woven garters twisted around their red buckskin leggins
+below the knee, and red moccasins with turned up soles and silver
+buttons), that they were Navajos.[22] They indicated that they were
+father and son, the father announcing himself in a lordly way as "Agua
+Grande." He was over six feet tall and apparently sixty or seventy years
+old. The son was a fine young lad of about fifteen. Their bearing was
+cordial, yet proud and dignified. They had not long been with us when
+Prof. came in, and during the next hour seven more Navajos arrived, all
+dressed very much as the first ones were. They expressed great
+friendliness by embracing us after their custom and delivering long
+speeches, of which we understood not a word. One had a short black
+mustache which came straight out sidewise and then turned at right
+angles down past the corners of his mouth. I never had heard of an
+Indian with a mustache before. They had no visible firearms, being armed
+with strong bows and cougar-skin quivers full of iron-headed arrows.[23]
+Old Agua Grande became much interested in our sick man, and made signs
+by placing two spread fingers of one hand inverted upon one finger held
+horizontally of the other hand, and moving them north-westerly to
+indicate that he ought to ride out to the Mormon settlement, whither
+they were bound, and that they would take him along. As the chief had
+exhibited a document, signed by the agent at Fort Defiance, to the
+effect that he and his band were peaceable and going on a trading
+expedition to the Mormon settlements, we felt certain they would take
+good care of the invalid, but Steward said he preferred to remain with
+us.
+
+We now had no further work for this immediate locality, and concluded to
+run down a mile or so to separate ourselves from the Navajos, one having
+disclosed a tendency to surreptitiously appropriate small articles
+belonging to us. A bed was made on the middle deck of one of the boats
+for Steward, and when all was ready we carried him down to it. The
+Navajos ranged themselves along the bank to see us off, and Clem, with
+his customary urbanity, went down the line all smiles, shaking each one
+cordially by the hand, and requesting him to "Give my love to all the
+folks at home," and "Remember me, please, to Eliza Jane," and similar
+expressions. The Navajos did not understand the words, but being
+themselves great jokers they saw that it was fun, and they all laughed,
+making remarks which doubtless were of the same kind. Just below was El
+Vado de los Padres by which these Navajos had now come across. It was
+also sometimes called the Ute Ford. The necessary route was indicated by
+a line of small piles of stones showing above water. It was not an easy
+crossing, feasible only at low water, and quite impossible for waggons,
+even had there been a road to it. A shoal was followed up the middle of
+the river half a mile with deep channels cutting through it, reached
+from the south over a steep slope of bare sandstone and from the north
+through a very narrow, small canyon, not over ten feet wide. Escalante
+in 1776, after the failure of his attempt to reach California, had great
+difficulty in finding the place, which for centuries has been known to
+all the tribes of the region. About three miles below our last camp we
+landed on the left on a very pretty piece of bottom land, inaccessible
+except by river, being bounded behind by a high, vertical, unscalable
+wall. Here we made Camp 80, with plenty of food, water, and wood, and
+all were comfortable by a fine fire; all but Steward, who, feeling very
+sick, was lying on the bed we had prepared for him. He had another bad
+night, but after this his condition seemed gradually to improve.
+
+[Illustration: Glen Canyon.
+
+Sentinel Rock--about 300 Feet High.
+
+Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.]
+
+Prof.'s favourite quotation now was Charles Fenno Hoffman's poem:
+
+    "We were not many--we who stood
+      Before the iron sleet that day;
+    Yet many a gallant spirit would
+    Give half his years if but he could
+      Have been with us at Monterey."
+
+In the morning he went with Jones across the river and climbed out while
+the rest of us did nothing but lie around camp doing what was possible
+to make Steward comfortable. It was Sunday as well and whenever
+practicable we rested the whole or part of that day. Monday we started
+late and ran only a short distance before dinner which we ate on the
+right. Steward still was unable to sit up and he was carried on the
+middle deck of the _Nell_ where he had a rope to cling to so that he
+should not roll off into the water when the boat lurched. Toward evening
+we camped at the head of a small rapid near a fine little stream coming
+in from the left which we named Navajo Creek. The river was about four
+hundred feet wide with walls on each side of four hundred feet in
+height. The next morning Prof., Cap. and I climbed out for bearings
+reaching an altitude a mile or so back from the river of 875 feet.
+Everywhere we discovered broken pottery, fragments of arrow-heads, and
+other evidences of former Shinumo occupancy. Even granting only a few
+persons at each possible locality, the canyons of the Colorado and Green
+must have been the former home of a rather large population. In the
+afternoon we ran the little rapid and kept on for about six miles making
+twenty in all from El Vado, when we camped on a heavy talus on the left.
+The following morning, October 18th, we had not gone more than a mile
+when we came to a singular freak of erosion, a lone sandstone pinnacle
+on the right, three hundred or four hundred feet high, the river running
+on one side and a beautiful creek eight feet wide on the other. We named
+these Sentinel Rock and Sentinel Creek and camped there for Beaman to
+get some photographs. Prof. and I went up the creek and tried to climb
+out for observations, but though we made three separate attempts we had
+to give it up. Steward grew so much better that he was able to walk a
+little, but now Jones began to feel more pain in his injured leg. On
+Thursday, the 19th, we made nearly seven miles between walls about eight
+hundred feet high and one quarter of a mile apart, so nearly vertical
+that we could not get out.
+
+The next day we ran six miles more with walls one thousand feet high,
+camping at a place where there was a wide bottom with many signs of old
+native camps, probably Navajo. In the morning Prof., Cap., and I climbed
+a steep slope of bright orange sand a little below our camp, a rather
+hard task as the sand was loose, causing us to slip backward at every
+step. After twelve hundred or fifteen hundred feet of this kind of
+climbing we reached the base of three rocky peaks several hundred feet
+higher. We had considerable difficulty in surmounting one of these,
+being forced around to the opposite side, where there was a sheer
+descent from our position of some fifteen hundred feet, with sharp black
+rocks at the bottom where any one slipping would fall. There were some
+narrow transverse crevices in the rock by means of which we got up. One
+man, having been pushed aloft from the solid ledge by the two below,
+would lie back against the slope, brace himself with one heel in a
+transverse fissure, and lower the free foot as a handhold for the
+others to mount by. The next trouble was a crevice wide enough for us
+to pass through to the top, but holding exactly midway a large rock
+lodged in such a manner that we could not crawl under and yet seeming
+in danger of rolling down if we went over it. It was precarious not only
+for the man ahead who tried to pass but for those below waiting for
+results, but it was more firmly wedged than it appeared to be and each
+one in turn climbed over it. Emerging from this crack we were on the
+summit 2190 feet above the river and 5360 above the sea, with standing
+room no more than six or eight feet square. The view was superb. The
+peaks formed the northern end of a long line of cliffs running back to
+the south at the end of Glen Canyon, and we looked out across a
+wonderful region, part of that on the south being the "Painted Desert,"
+so called by Ives. Mountains solid and solitary rose up here and there
+and line upon line of strangely coloured cliffs broke across the wide
+area, while from our feet stretching off to the south-west like a great
+dark dragon extending miles into the blue was the deep gorge of Marble
+Canyon, its tributary chasms appearing like mighty sprawling legs. Far
+away west were the San Francisco Mountains, and the Kaibab, while behind
+we saw Navajo Mountain and others.
+
+This peak, or cluster of peaks, of course had never been named, had
+never been climbed before, but they soon named themselves. For amusement
+I tried to shoot into the river with Cap.'s 44 Remington revolver. As I
+pulled the trigger the noise was absolutely staggering. The violent
+report was followed by dead silence. While we were remarking the
+intensity of the crash, from far away on some distant cliffs northward
+the sound waves were hurled back to us with a rattle like that of
+musketry. We tried again with the same result, the interval between the
+great roar and the echo being twenty-four seconds by the watch. We could
+call the place nothing but Echo Peaks, and since then the name has been
+applied also to the line of cliffs breaking to the south. Our descent
+was easy and we reached camp without any incident except the loss of my
+sheath knife.
+
+Nobody did anything the next day, for it was Sunday, so when Monday
+morning came we were eager to be off for the mouth of the Paria, which
+we had seen from the top of Echo Peaks. Two or three miles down we
+reached it; a small river coming through a great canyon on the right.
+The cliffs of Glen Canyon broke back south-westerly and south-easterly
+in a V form with the point at the foot of Glen Canyon, leaving a wide
+platform of different rock rising gently from under them and mounting
+steadily toward the south. Into the middle of this the river immediately
+slashed a narrow gorge very much as a staircase might be cut through a
+floor, beginning the next canyon of the series, called Marble, through
+which we would not descend till the following year. We went into camp on
+the left bank of the Paria and the right of the Colorado, Camp 86, in
+the tall willows. A rough scow lay there, which the Major had built the
+year before when on his way from Kanab to the Moki Towns, for there is
+no ford.
+
+We were to wait here for our pack-train which the Major, on arriving at
+Kanab, was to start back with rations and some extra horses. Our
+altitude was 3170 feet, showing a total descent for the season of 2905
+feet, 913 feet from Gunnison Crossing. Our work on the water for the
+present was now over; we would pursue it with mule and pack instead of
+with boats. As the 23d of October had arrived we were glad to avoid
+daily saturation.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 19: These blisters were later called laccolites by G. K.
+Gilbert after his careful study of the locality. See his _Geology of the
+Henry Mountains_, published by the government.]
+
+[Footnote 20: The illustration on page 43 of _The Romance of the
+Colorado_ well shows the character of the Glen Canyon country, and that
+on page 63 the nature of the pot-holes.]
+
+[Footnote 21: We learned later that while we were working through
+Cataract Canyon, Lieutenant George M. Wheeler, U. S. Engineers, was
+coming up from Fort Mohave. After great labour he reached the mouth of
+Diamond Creek, See _The Romance of the Colorado_, Chapter XII.]
+
+[Footnote 22: For further description of the Navajo costume, see _The
+North Americans of Yesterday_, by F. S. Dellenbaugh, pp. 148, 150.]
+
+[Footnote 23: Like all the tribes of the region of that time, the
+Navajos considered the Mormons a different people from the Americans.
+They had been at war with the Mormons, from whom they stole horses and
+cattle, and there had been some bloodshed. Old Jacob had induced them to
+make peace, and this party now on its way to trade was the first to try
+the experiment. Vanquished by our troops, a few years before, the
+Navajos were very poor and anxious to acquire live stock and firearms,
+for which they had blankets and other articles of their own make to
+trade.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+     More Navajos Arrive with Old Jacob--The Lost Pack-train and a
+     Famished Guide--From Boat to Broncho--On to Kanab--Winter
+     Arrives--Wolf Neighbours too Intimate--Preparing for Geodetic
+     Work--Over the Kaibab to Eight-mile Spring--A Frontier
+     Town--Camp below Kanab--A Mormon Christmas Dance.
+
+
+At the mouth of the Paria we established ourselves for a stay of several
+days. Not only did we have the pack-train to wait for, but there were
+maps to finish, boats to cache, and all manner of things to attend to
+before we could leave for the winter. Steward recovered so that he could
+slowly walk around, but to balance this Jones developed inflammatory
+rheumatism in both knees, but especially in the one which had been
+injured by the fall at the Junction. Though he was perfectly cheerful
+about it, he suffered excruciating pain, and was unable to move from the
+bed of willows which we made for him. The medicine chest was drawn on
+again, and we hoped that the attack would not last long. Andy remained
+wan and thin, but he insisted on sticking to his work. So liberally had
+we used our rations that we were nearing the end, and we began to look
+hopefully in the direction from which we expected the pack-train to
+arrive. Four days passed and still there was no sign of it. We had to
+put ourselves on half-rations once more, and Prof. declared that if the
+train did not soon arrive either he or I, being the only entirely well
+members of the party, would have to walk out to Kanab and obtain relief.
+None of us knew anything about the trail. On the 26th Prof. and I
+climbed the cliffs back of camp to a height of two thousand feet, and
+had a remarkable view similar to that from Echo Peaks. On Saturday,
+October 28th, in the morning we were surprised to hear from the opposite
+or south side of the river an Indian yell, and looking across we
+perceived what appeared to be three natives, with horses, standing on
+the edge of the canyon wall, here very low. We prepared one of the boats
+to cross and find out what was wanted, when a fourth figure joined the
+group, and in good English came the words, "G-o-o-d m-o-r-n-i-n-g," long
+drawn out. On landing we were met by a slow-moving, very quiet
+individual, who said he was Jacob Hamblin. His voice was so low, his
+manner so simple, his clothing so usual, that I could hardly believe
+that this was Utah's famous Indian-fighter and manager. With him were
+three other white men, Isaac Haight, George Adair, Joe Mangum, and nine
+Navajos, all on their way to the Mormon settlements. They desired to be
+put across the river, and we willingly offered the services of ourselves
+and our boats. Some of the Navajos had never before seen so large a
+stream, and were free to express their surprise. We took on board Jacob
+and one or two others, and after landing them made several trips with
+both boats to ferry the rest over, including all their saddles and
+baggage. The Navajos were rather afraid of the boats, which to them
+probably looked small and wobbly, but they all got on board with much
+hilarity, except one who preferred to swim. He struck boldly out with a
+sort of dog-paddle stroke. Having no confidence in his swimming ability,
+we followed closely. The water was cold; the distance greater than the
+Navajo had imagined. Before he was one third of the way over he
+consented to be pulled into our boat and finish the passage that way.
+The horses were towed over, swimming behind the boats, a rope being held
+by a man sitting in the stern. There was a rapid not far below, and we
+feared if driven in to swim loose they might be drawn into it. One horse
+refused to swim or even to try, and made repeated efforts to plunge his
+head under, giving us a lot of trouble, but by holding his head close to
+the boat we towed him across in spite of his opposition. Without the
+boat he would surely have gone down the river. When everybody and
+everything were safely across the hour was so late that Jacob concluded
+to camp with us for the night.[24]
+
+The Navajos were found to be a very jolly set of fellows, ready to take
+or give any amount of chaff, and perfectly honest. They were taking
+blankets of their manufacture to trade for horses and sheep. Their
+spirits ran high, they sang their wild songs for us, and we had the
+liveliest evening we had seen in many a month. Finally we joined in a
+circle with them, dancing and singing around the smouldering fire, while
+the chief Koneco, a noble-looking fellow, sitting at one side, with a
+patriarchal expression, monotonously drummed an accompaniment with a
+willow root on the bottom of one of the camp-kettles. When any of us
+would stumble on a stick they were all convulsed with laughter. The
+blankets they had were beautiful, and Jacob possessed one valued at $40,
+which had taken seventy days to make. After the Navajos had gone to rest
+we listened to some Mormon songs by Jacob's party. They left us the next
+morning, Sunday, October 29th, Prof. obtaining from Jacob some red
+Mexican beans to eke out our supplies; also a description of the trail.
+I traded a cap I happened to have to one of the Navajos for his feather
+plume, and a pair of shoes to one of the white men for some Mishongnuvi
+moccasins. Monday we took the _Dean_ across the river, and some distance
+down we hauled her by means of ropes up high above the water under a
+large rock, where we concealed her well. Then we made five caches near
+camp of goods not needed till next year, covering our traces by fires
+and other devices. Jones was so much improved that he managed to hobble
+about on a pair of crutches I had made for him out of strong willow
+sticks, and we felt much encouraged as to his ability to stand riding
+when the time came to start for Kanab.
+
+On Tuesday we built a shelter back of camp for the _Nell_ and housed
+her there. The next day was the first of November and we thought surely
+the pack-train would come, but the sun went down behind the cliffs and
+no one arrived. Prof. could not understand what the trouble was, but he
+went on with his observations. The next morning, as we were about to eat
+our bean breakfast beside the fire, we were astonished by the extremely
+cautious appearance through the willows, without a word of announcement,
+of a single, ragged, woebegone, silent old man on as skinny and
+tottering a pony as ever I saw. The old man was apparently much
+surprised to find himself here, and with the exclamation, "My God! I
+have found you!" he dropped to the ground. When at last he spoke he said
+his name was Mangum of Kanab, and that he had been employed to guide our
+pack-train, of which Riley, one of the prospectors we had met at El
+Vado, was leader. "Well, where is the train?" we asked, for if he were
+all that remained of it we wanted to know it soon. "Several miles back
+on the trail," he said. Not having eaten a mouthful since the morning
+before it was no wonder he was weak and silent. We gave him the best
+breakfast we could command from our meagre stock and then like a spectre
+he vanished on his scrawny steed up the Paria Canyon. All the day long
+we watched and waited for his triumphal return with the longed-for
+supplies at his back, but the sun departed without his approach and the
+twilight died into that mystery which leaves the world formless against
+the night. And still we had faith in the stranger's story. Early the
+next morning Prof., Clem, and I started on his track thinking we would
+soon meet the train. It led us up the valley of the Paria, between the
+great cliffs about three miles, and then we had another surprise, for it
+swung sharply to the right and climbed a steep sandy slope towards the
+only apparent place where the two-thousand-foot cliffs could possibly be
+scaled with horses. We saw that he had followed a very old Indian trail.
+When we had mounted to the base of the vertical rocks we travelled
+zig-zagging back and forth across the face of the precipice till
+presently the trail passed through a notch out upon the plateau. From an
+eminence we now scanned the whole visible area without discovering
+anything that apparently had not been there for several thousand years.
+Save the coming and going tracks of our strange visitor there was
+nothing to show that any living animal had trod this place in centuries.
+We could see to where Prof. and I previously climbed to this same
+plateau, and to-day was like yesterday and yesterday like the year
+before last. Time and the years were as little grains of drifting sand.
+
+Leaving Clem as a sentinel on our observation point Prof. followed the
+out track and told me to follow the in till three o'clock. It was now
+high noon. I walked on and on through an arid, wonderful maze of sand,
+rocks, and cacti, feeling that the old horseman was no more than a
+phantom, when in half an hour I almost fell upon our lost pack-train
+meandering slowly and silently through a depression. I fired our signal
+shots and Prof. soon joined us. The situation was precarious. The
+animals were nearly dead from thirst, one had been abandoned, and Riley
+was in a state of pent-up rage that was dangerous for the spectre guide,
+who had nearly been the destruction of the whole outfit, for he did not
+know the trail and was himself lost. Of course he blamed Riley--it was
+his only defence. Riley broke loose in a string of fiery oaths,
+declaring he would shoot "the old fool," then and there. But receiving
+no encouragement from Prof. or me he didn't. There was a third member of
+the party, Joe Hamblin, a son of Jacob, a very sturdy young fellow. He
+said afterwards that he thought often that Riley would "sure let
+daylight through the old man." Our next care was to successfully
+manoeuvre the pack-animals down the difficult trail across the face of
+the cliff, which had not seen a horse for many a year and probably never
+had been traversed by animals with packs on their backs. We had to watch
+that they did not crowd each other off, but with all our exertions one
+fell and rolled down a few feet. He was not injured and we continued the
+descent, finally reaching the bottom without so much as a scratch of any
+consequence. There, at the Paria, the horses enjoyed the first full
+drink for several days and we followed it down to camp. Riley had
+started from Kanab October 23d and had been twelve days making a journey
+that required at most only four or five by the regular trail. Mangum had
+not known the way, had led toward El Vado, and his finding the Indian
+trail to the mouth of the Paria was an accident.
+
+Provisions were now plenty again, and by the light of a big fire we
+overhauled the mail, finding letters, newspapers and magazines enough to
+satisfy any party. Word was received from the Major to move to a place
+called House Rock Spring, and Prof. said we would leave Camp 86 on
+November 5th, which gave us a day intervening in which to pack up. About
+noon of this packing day we were not surprised when two horsemen, Haight
+and Riggs, galloped into camp at full speed leading a lightly laden
+pack-mule. They had come through in two and one half days, at top speed,
+by direction of Jacob, who on reaching Kanab with the Navajos learned
+that our pack-train had left long before, and he had seen nothing of
+it. On the pack-mule were fifty pounds of flour and several rolls of
+butter; the first time we had seen any of this latter article since the
+final breakfast at Field's on May 22d. They were greatly relieved to
+know that the train was found and that all was well. They brought news
+of the burning of Chicago about a month before. In the evening Isaac
+Haight favoured us with some Mormon songs and recited examples of the
+marvellous curative effects of the Mormon "laying on of hands." Heavy
+clouds had settled along the face of the cliffs and the air grew wintry.
+We felt the chill keenly, as we were not clad for cold weather. In the
+morning snow began to drop gently out of the leaden sky and continued
+all day, preventing any one from starting. Soon the cliffs and Echo
+Peaks were white and we knew that now autumn was gone. Toward evening
+the sun flared across the rocky landscape, turning everything to gold,
+and we believed the next day would be fair. We were not disappointed.
+Monday the 6th of November came sharp and cold. Haight, Riggs, Mangum,
+and Joe Hamblin left early and we got under way as soon as we could.
+With two very sick men and a new method of travel it was not easy. We
+had to learn the art of packing on mules and horses from Riley, who was
+an expert in this line and who could "sling the diamond hitch" with
+great skill. He was just as handy with a lasso and seldom missed if he
+wished to catch an animal, but Prof. did not approve of the lasso
+method, for it makes stock wild and unmanageable. His way was the quiet
+one and he was right, for we soon had the entire herd so that there was
+no rumpus at starting-time. With a free use of the lasso preparations to
+start partake of the activity of a tornado.
+
+Steward by this time was able to walk slowly. Andy was well enough to
+travel on his feet, but Jones could not move at all without crutches. We
+did not have extra horses for all to ride, so Steward and Andy changed
+off, while the rest of us had to walk. Jones we lifted as gently as
+possible, though it was pain even to be touched in his condition, upon
+Riley's special horse called Doc, a well-trained, docile animal, who
+walked off with him. It was after noon before the start was
+accomplished, and meanwhile I went back on the incoming trail of the
+lost pack-train to the foot of the steep precipice for Riley's canteen,
+which had been forgotten there, and when I returned all were gone but
+Steward, Clem, and Beaman, who had remained behind to round up a young
+steer which had been driven in with the train for us to convert into
+beef at a convenient opportunity. As the advance party travelled very
+slowly we soon caught them, the steer being gentle as a kitten. The
+trail followed south along the foot of the cliffs which emerged from
+Paria Canyon, and to which the Major had given the name of Vermilion on
+account of their rich red colour. We wound in and out of deep alcoves,
+around the heads of impassable lateral canyons running to the Colorado,
+and past enormous rocks balanced in every conceivable position on
+extremely slender pedestals. After about eight miles we arrived at a
+diminutive spring, which gave enough water for Andy to make bread and
+coffee with, but none for the stock. There we camped. A few armfuls of
+scraggy sage-brush furnished wood for a fire, but it was not enough to
+make our invalids comfortable, and the night was cold and raw. We did
+all we could for them and they did not grumble.
+
+In the morning a pair of bronchos--that is, recently broken wild
+horses--made the camp lively for a time, but they were subdued and the
+caravan again got under way. Our next camp was to be Jacob's Pools, so
+called from the fact that Jacob was the first white man to camp there.
+We had gone only a mile or so when we crossed in a small canyon a little
+stream already enjoying two names, Clear and Spring (now called Badger)
+Creek, and a little farther on another called Soap Creek, still holding
+that name.[25] When first travellers enter a country they naturally
+bestow names on important objects, and two or three parties of white men
+who had passed this way had named these two creeks. After this we had no
+more water, and we pushed slowly ahead, looking for the Pools. Snow
+began to fall again in widely scattered, reluctant flakes, but melted on
+touching the ground. Late in the afternoon the trail turned the corner
+of the cliffs, which here broke to the west, and we saw a wide, desolate
+open plain stretching away to the foot of a distant table-land, which we
+knew to be the Kaibab Plateau or Buckskin Mountain. None of the party
+had been over the trail before, but it was easy to follow, especially
+for a man of Riley's experience. It was an old Navajo trail, and was
+here fairly well worn. The sun went down as we plodded on, the light
+faded from the west, and still we saw no Jacob's Pools. The air was
+biting, and with our thin, worn garments we felt it keenly and wished
+for a fire. At last just as the darkness began to thicken a patch of
+reeds on the right between some low hills was discovered, where it
+seemed there might be water, and we could not well go farther. The
+ground was moist, and by digging a hole we secured red, muddy liquid
+enough for Andy to make a little bread and a cup apiece of very poor
+coffee. The men and animals came straggling in out of the darkness. We
+gathered a lot of sage-brush and made a fire, and as soon as Jones came
+we lifted him off and put him as near the warmth as possible, for he was
+chilled through. There was no water for the stock, but the grass was wet
+and they did not suffer. Everything was damp and uncomfortable, and the
+fire was too small to dry anything out, so all turned in to the limited
+blankets and passed a cold, half-sleepless, uncomfortable night.
+
+Morning was a relief, though the thermometer stood at 11 F. There was
+water enough in the holes for breakfast, and as soon as this meal was
+over the pack-train was on the move towards Jacob's Pools, which we
+found not two miles farther on. There were two of them, each seven or
+eight feet long, supplied by fine clear water oozing out of a hill-side.
+The lower one we turned over to the animals, reserving the upper for
+ourselves. We approached the plateau all day, and late in the afternoon
+we were within three or four miles of it, when the right-hand cliffs
+turned sharply to the north in a line parallel with the plateau, forming
+a long narrow valley. Cedars and pinons now grew about us, so that we
+were assured of a good fire. About sunset we passed two large boulders
+which had fallen together, forming a rude shelter, under which Riggs or
+some one else had slept, and then had jocosely printed above with
+charcoal the words "Rock House Hotel." Afterward this had served as
+identification, and Jacob and the others had spoken of "House Rock"
+Spring and House Rock Valley. We called it the same, and finally it went
+on the maps and is now permanent. A few yards beyond the House Rock the
+trail led into a gulch, at the head of which was a good spring. Plenty
+of cedars and pinons grew about, and we soon had a fire that compensated
+for the meagre ones of the preceding nights. The sick men became warm
+and dry, and we all felt much better. The whole outfit halted two days,
+and on the second the poor little steer, gazing sadly at us, was shot
+and cut up. In an hour the quarters were swinging from a tree and some
+of the beef was in the pan. Necessity is a sauce that makes every grist
+palatable. We were hungry, and nothing could have tasted better than
+that fresh beefsteak. The entrails and refuse were left on the ground in
+the neighbouring gulley where we had killed the steer, and next morning
+the place was about cleaned up by the lurking wolves.
+
+Prof. decided to go on across the Kaibab to Kanab with the two very sick
+men, and leave Cap., Clem, Andy, and me here at House Rock Spring until
+the plan for the winter's campaign had been better formulated. Steward
+concluded that his condition was too precarious to risk further
+exposure, and said he would now leave the expedition permanently, which
+we learned with deep regret, but it was plainly imperative. Jones
+thought that a week or two of warmth and rest, accompanied by a change
+of diet, would make him whole again and enable him to stay till the end
+of our special task. On Saturday, November 11th, the party started, with
+the invalids riding the gentlest and easiest horses, though Steward
+found it less painful at times to walk. I accompanied them to the summit
+of the Kaibab to bring back one of the horses we called Thunderbolt, on
+which Jones was to be carried to the top and there change to Doc. After
+I left them I halted many times to look out into the wonderful land to
+the west and north. When I got back to the spring, our Camp 3 of the
+land operations, we immediately set up a stout 6 by 8 tent that was in
+the outfit brought from Kanab, and it made a very snug sleeping-place
+for the four of us. Around the fire we rolled big stones for seats, and
+soon had the gulch in a homelike condition. There was an abundance of
+dead, fat pinon, which burned like a candle, and we could easily extend
+our reading into the evenings.
+
+From all around us there arose the frequent bay and bark of the wolves.
+They were of different kinds, numerous and rather bold. At night they
+came in and cleared up what was left of the entrails of the steer, also
+securing a fine, large piece of beef which Cap. had hung in a tree, but
+not high enough to escape their efforts. We took turns bringing the four
+horses left with us to water, and in that way kept ourselves informed
+about them. During these trips, especially in the late afternoon, the
+wolves were apt to trot along near by, and on one occasion Clem was
+obliged to drive one out of the trail with stones, not having his rifle.
+One morning, as I was riding along not far from camp, a huge whitish
+fellow followed behind like a dog about twenty yards back, licking his
+chaps. At first I thought he might be the dog of some Indian camped
+near, but remembering that there were none in the valley, and also that
+an Indian dog, or any strange dog, would have run from me, I saw that he
+was a hungry wolf unused to man. I had no rifle with me, but I took a
+walk over the same ground next morning with my Winchester, hoping to see
+my acquaintance again, but he discreetly kept out of sight. We had
+little now to occupy us except to examine the locality, chop wood for
+our fire, and read over and over the newspapers and magazines. The
+nights were very cold, the spring always freezing over, but the days
+were delightful. The beef had to be jerked to preserve it. We cut it up
+into thin long strips, which we strung through the ends on long withes,
+these in turn being hung on a framework that left the strips swinging
+within two or three feet of a slow fire. One hour's neglect of this
+tempting array would have seen it vanish to the four winds, so we kept a
+constant watch day and night, taking turns through the dark hours.
+Every article which had grease or leather about it had to be carefully
+put away to prevent its disappearance. Riley had lost his spurs on the
+way out from this cause, the leather on them making sweet morsels for
+the watchers.
+
+Cap. concluded to profit by this appetite, and in an adjoining gulch he
+built a trap between two rocks, in which he set his Remington
+six-shooter, so that a wolf picking up a scrap of beef would pull the
+trigger by a string and receive the ball in his head. That night during
+my watch over the beef I roasted a piece on a stick for a lunch, and as
+the savory odour drifted off on the crisp winter air howl after howl of
+ravenous desire rang out from many directions, followed by the bang of
+the revolver in the trap. Cap. went over, but found no game, though
+later he often came back with a fine large specimen, bearing a perfect
+coat of fur, which Cap. always removed by the firelight at once. About
+every night except Sunday, when Cap. refused to set the trap--for he
+never did any work on that day that was not absolutely necessary--there
+was a fatal shot, and he accumulated a lot of excellent large skins,
+which he tacked on trees to preserve them. He thought he had put them up
+securely high, but one morning every skin had disappeared. The wolf
+relatives had carried them away to the last shred.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+From Havasupai Point, South Rim, Showing Inner Gorge.
+
+From a sketch in colour by F. S. Dellenbaugh, 1907.]
+
+The Kaibab was too far away for us to go there to hunt deer, and there
+were none around the spring, though one night at supper-time, the
+western sky being a broad sweep of deep orange, we saw a large wild
+animal of some sort on the crest of the hill silhouetted against the
+colour. I started for it with my rifle, but of course it did not wait;
+no animal ever does if he can help it, unless he is carnivorous and
+famished. The weather remained generally fair, though one day we had a
+wild gale that nearly relieved us of the tent in the midst of thick
+flurries of snow. We often climbed among the cliffs, and everywhere we
+found picture-writings, poles laid up, stepping-stones, fragments of
+pottery, arrowheads, and other evidences of former occupation. The poles
+and stones may have been placed by the Pai Utes as well as by the old
+Shinumos, who once were numerous over all this country. Cap. was by no
+means well. An extreme nervousness connected with the old gunshot wound
+developed, and he said he felt sure he could not continue the work in
+the field during the winter, much less go through the Grand Canyon with
+us the next year. Clem also felt under the weather, and besides was
+growing homesick. He confided to me one day that he also had concluded
+not to remain with us. As there was little the matter with him I
+undertook to argue him out of his determination not to go through the
+Grand Canyon, pointing out the disappointment he would feel when we had
+accomplished the passage and he realised that he might as well have come
+along. This produced some impression, but I was uncertain as to its
+lasting result.
+
+By November 17th we began with confidence to look for some one to come
+over the mountains from Kanab, and just after sunset we heard Riley's
+long shrill "ee--ii--oooooooo," which he could deliver upon the air in
+such a fashion that it carried for miles. Presently Prof. and he rode
+into our camp with fresh supplies and a great bundle of mail that
+included papers giving the details of the burning of Chicago. Prof. with
+Cap. then reconnoitred the neighbourhood, and on the 21st he returned to
+Kanab, leaving us as before, except that Riley remained two days longer.
+The Major had not yet arrived at Kanab from Salt Lake and our winter
+work could not begin till he came. The days rolled by with occasional
+rain and snow and we began to grow impatient with our inaction,
+especially when November passed away. The second day of December was
+fading when we distinguished in the distance the familiar Riley yell,
+and in a little while he came into view with welcome news. We were to
+move at once to a spring eight miles from Kanab. He also brought some
+apples, native raisins and a large canteen full of fresh wine from
+"Dixie" as the country along the Virgin was called. These luxuries
+together with a number of letters from home made that night one of the
+most cheerful we had known for a long time. Monday morning, December 4th
+we left House Rock Spring behind with our pack-train, followed the trail
+across the open valley, climbed two thousand feet to the top of the
+Kaibab, and were soon traversing the forest on its broad summit. Riley
+having been over the trail now several times we went ahead steadily, and
+about sunset arrived at the farther side of a narrow longitudinal
+depression of the top which Cap. immediately put down in his notes as
+Summit Valley, a name that holds to-day. There we threw off our packs
+and made camp for the night. Though there was no water the ground was
+covered by a thin layer of snow, that made the long bunch grass
+palatable to the horses and for ourselves we had sufficient water in two
+small kegs and several canteens. A bright fire blazed cheerfully, the
+dense cedars broke the wind, and everybody felt that it was a fine camp.
+The others spent the evening playing euchre by firelight, but I
+preferred to read till bedtime.
+
+The next morning, after crossing some rough gulches, we came to the
+western edge of the great plateau, and emerging from the forest of pine
+and cedar we saw again the magnificent, kaleidoscopic, cliff country
+lying to the north. First about twenty miles away was a line of low
+chocolate-coloured cliffs, then a few miles back of this the splendid
+line of the Vermilion Cliffs, the same which began at the mouth of Glen
+Canyon and which we had skirted to House Rock Spring. From there the
+line continued northward till it passed around the north end of the
+Kaibab, when it struck southwesterly far to our left, where it turned
+back to the north again, forming one of the longest and finest cliff
+ranges anywhere to be seen. Above them and some miles still farther
+back, rising higher, was a line of greyish cliffs following the trend of
+the Vermilion, and still above these was the broken meandering face of
+the Pink Cliffs, frosted with snow, whose crest marks the southeastern
+limit of Fremont's "Great Basin," the end of the High Plateaus, and tops
+the country at an altitude of some 11,000 feet above sea-level. A more
+extraordinary, bewildering landscape, both as to form and colour, could
+hardly be found in all the world. Winding our way down to the barren
+valley, in itself more a high plateau than a valley, we travelled the
+rest of the day in the direction of the great cliffs. The sun was just
+gone when we reached the first low line, and passing through a gap
+turned into a side gulch thickly studded with cedars, where we saw
+before us two white-covered waggons, two or three camp-fires blazing,
+and friends. We heard a hearty voice cry, "Tirtaan Aigles dis wai!" and
+we sprang from our horses to grasp Jack's welcoming hand and greet all
+the others, some of whom were new acquaintances. The fragrance of coffee
+and frying bacon filled the sharp air, while from the summits of the
+surrounding cliffs the hungry chorus of yelping wolves sent up their
+wail of disappointment.
+
+In an alcove a large tent had been put up, which the Major's family was
+occupying, for Mrs. Powell and her baby daughter had come from Salt Lake
+with him, arriving a few days before. The daughter was but three months
+old and was happy in a big clothes-basket for a cradle. Mrs. Thompson,
+Prof.'s wife, and sister of the Major, had also come from Salt Lake and
+another large tent sheltered them, while still another of equal size,
+not yet erected, was designed for the men. It was a specially
+interesting camp to us who had come over from House Rock for it was
+novel to see so many people around. The Major himself was absent at
+Kanab. Before the camp was asleep the hour was late, and so soundly did
+every one rest that the sneaking wolves without the least molestation
+carried off two large sacks of the jerked beef from near our heads,
+where we had put it against a huge rock thinking they would not come so
+close; but as they had pulled a ham the night before from under the head
+of Captain Dodds where he had placed it for safety, we ought to have
+been more sensible. Two or three nights later, as I was sleeping in a
+special bed one of the men then absent had made by a big rock some yards
+from the main camp, I was awakened by a wolf crunching bones by the fire
+not eight feet from my head. I wanted to shoot the impertinent wretch,
+but his form was indistinct and my rifle lying by my side had to be
+trained his way. This took some time, as I had to move cautiously, and
+in the midst of my effort my elbow slipped. Like a shadow he flitted
+into the deeper gloom and I went to sleep again. I did not want to
+shoot without certainty, though some nights later I did shoot with
+Riley's huge double-barrelled shotgun loaded with buckshot straight into
+our mess kit, not killing the wolf that was there, but putting holes in
+numerous tin plates through which bean soup delighted to percolate, so
+that I never heard the last of this midnight effort of mine to diminish
+the wolf family.
+
+The day following our arrival the Major came from Kanab and the plans
+for our winter's campaign were put in operation. A base line for our
+geographic work was necessary and this was to run south from Kanab, so
+Prof. on December 7th, with Mrs. Thompson, Cap., Clem, Andy, Jones (who
+had recovered his health), and one of the new men named MacEntee, left
+us with loaded waggons to establish another camp nearer to the scene of
+this work. Another member of the party was Fuzz, Mrs. Thompson's dog, an
+intelligent Dandie Dinmont. As I was much interested to see Kanab, of
+which so much had been said, and as it was now nearly seven months since
+I had seen an occupied house, I decided to take a Sunday ride in that
+direction. On the 17th, about noon, I put a saddle on a white mule which
+Jack had named Nigger and was soon on my way. Emerging from the
+Chocolate Cliffs the road led along the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs,
+crossing long ridges covered with cedars and pinons with a vast view to
+the Kaibab on the south and east, and soon joining a road that led from
+a canyon to eastward where there was a very small settlement called
+Johnson's, and from two or three houses which had been built where the
+El Vado trail crossed the Paria River. Nigger went along very well and I
+was in Kanab by three o'clock. The village, which had been started only
+a year or two, was laid out in the characteristic Mormon style with wide
+streets and regular lots fenced by wattling willows between stakes.
+Irrigating ditches ran down each side of every street and from them the
+water, derived from a creek that came down a canyon back of the town,
+could be led into any of the lots, each of which was about one quarter
+of an acre; that is, there were four lots to a block. Fruit trees, shade
+trees, and vines had been planted and were already beginning to promise
+near results, while corn, potatoes, etc., gave fine crops. The original
+place of settlement was a square formed by one-story log houses on three
+sides and a stockade on the fourth. This was called the fort and was a
+place of refuge, though the danger from Navajo attack seemed to be over
+and that from any assault by the Pai Utes certainly was past. One corner
+of the fort was made by the walls of the schoolhouse, which was at the
+same time meeting-house and ball-room. Altogether there were about 100
+families in the village. The houses that had been built outside the fort
+were quite substantially constructed, some of adobe or sun-dried brick.
+The entire settlement had a thrifty air, as is the case with the
+Mormons. Not a grog-shop, or gambling saloon, or dance-hall was to be
+seen; quite in contrast with the usual disgraceful accompaniments of the
+ordinary frontier towns. A perfectly orderly government existed, headed
+by a bishop appointed by the church authorities in Salt Lake, the then
+incumbent of this office being an excellent man, Bishop Stewart. I rode
+to the fort, where I found Clem and Beaman domiciled with their
+photographic outfit, with a swarm of children peeping through every
+chink and crevice of the logs to get a view of the "Gentiles," a kind of
+animal they had seldom seen. Every one was cordial. Beaman even offered
+me a drink made with sugar-water and photographic alcohol, but it did
+not appeal to my taste. It was after sunset when I started Nigger
+towards Eight Mile Spring and I enjoyed the ride in the edge of night
+with not a living thing, besides Nigger (and Nigger was a mule), to
+disturb my reveries.
+
+I had as yet seen none of the natives of the locality. They were now
+very friendly and considered harmless, thanks to Jacob's wise
+management. The only Indians the settlers dreaded were some renegades, a
+band of Utes and Navajos, collected by a bold and skillful chief named
+Patnish, whose "country" was south of the Colorado around Navajo
+Mountain. He was reputed to be highly dangerous, and the Kanab people
+were constantly prepared against his unwelcome visits. He had several
+handsome stalwart sons, who dressed in white and who generally
+accompanied him. Though Patnish was so much feared, I do not remember to
+have heard that he committed any depredations after this time. There had
+been much trouble with the Navajos, but Jacob, growing tired of the
+constant warfare, had resolved to go to them and see if he could not
+change the state of affairs. When he had guided the Major to the Moki
+Towns and Fort Defiance the year before (1870), about six thousand
+Navajos were assembled at the Agency. The chiefs were invited to meet in
+council on the 2d of November, and all the principal chiefs but one and
+all subchiefs but two were there. The Major led the way by introducing
+Jacob and speaking in highly complimentary terms of the Mormons; and
+Jacob then gave a long talk in his low-voiced way, illustrating the
+great evils of such warfare as had existed, and closed by saying:
+
+     "What shall I tell my people the 'Mormons' when I return home?
+     That we may expect to live in peace, live as friends, and
+     trade with one another? Or shall we look for you to come
+     prowling around our weak settlements, like wolves in the
+     night? I hope we may live in peace in time to come. I have now
+     grey hairs on my head, and from my boyhood I have been on the
+     frontiers doing all I could to preserve peace between white
+     men and Indians. I despise this killing, this shedding of
+     blood. I hope you will stop this and come and visit and trade
+     with our people. We would like to hear what you have got to
+     say before we go home."
+
+Barbenceta, the principal chief, slowly approached as Jacob ended, and
+putting his arms around him said: "My friend and brother, I will do all
+that I can to bring about what you have advised. We will not give all
+our answer now. Many of the Navajos are here. We will talk to them
+to-night and will see you on your way home." Several days later Jacob
+met him and the chiefs who had been absent; he said they would all
+really like to see peace with the Mormons carried out, and continued:
+
+     "We have some bad men among us, but if some do wrong, the wise
+     ones must not act foolishly, like children, but let it be
+     settled according to the spirit of your talk at Fort Defiance.
+     Here is Hastele. I wish you would take a good look at him, so
+     you will not be mistaken in the man. He never lies or steals.
+     He is a truthful man; we wish all difficult matters settled
+     before him. He lives on the frontier nearest to the river; you
+     can find him by inquiry. We hope we may be able to eat at one
+     table, warm by one fire, smoke one pipe, and sleep under one
+     blanket."
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+From South Rim near Bright Angel Creek.]
+
+Jacob proceeded towards home, taking a Moki, named Tuba, and his wife
+back with him, so that they might see the Mormon country. Arriving at
+the crossing of the Colorado Tuba was sad. He said his people had once
+lived on the other side, and their fathers had told them they never
+again would go west of the river to live. "I am now going on a visit to
+see my friends. I have worshipped the Father of us all in the way you
+believe to be right; now I wish you would do as the Hopees think is
+right before we cross." Jacob assented, and Tuba, he said,
+
+     "then took his medicine bag from under his shirt and offered
+     me a little of its contents. I offered my left hand to take
+     it; he requested me to take it with my right. He then knelt
+     with his face to the east, and asked the Great Father of us
+     all to preserve us in crossing the river. He said that he and
+     his wife had left many friends at home, and if they never
+     lived to return their friends would weep much. He prayed for
+     pity upon his friends the Mormons, that none of them might
+     drown in crossing; and that all the animals we had with us
+     might be spared, for we needed them all, and to preserve unto
+     us all our food and clothing, that we need not suffer hunger
+     nor cold on our journey. He then arose to his feet. We
+     scattered the ingredients from the medicine bag into the air,
+     on to the land, and into the water of the river."
+
+When they were all safely over Tuba gave thanks that his prayer had been
+answered.[26]
+
+The last white men to be killed by the Navajos in the Kanab region were
+Dr. Whitmore and his herder at Pipe Springs, twenty miles west, five
+years before in the winter of 1865-66. The raiders were pursued by a
+strong party, and some of them, turning down the Kanab Canyon, perhaps
+thinking the river could be crossed there, were surprised and fired on
+at dawn. Some escaped, though wounded. Jacob kept a close watch on all
+the passes, and especially at El Vado. Several raiders were intercepted
+and shot. In 1869 a raiding band successfully drove off twelve hundred
+head of horses and cattle from northern settlements, and the winter of
+1869-70 was one of the worst, requiring Jacob's presence in the field
+almost constantly. He was accompanied by friendly Pai Utes, who hated
+the Navajos. One Navajo was shot in a band who had stolen cattle, but
+the others were allowed to leave on giving up the stock. The shot did
+not kill the Navajo, and they followed to see what became of him. He was
+carried along by his friends to where another raiding party was
+encamped. The Pai Utes then killed two of this party, scalping one, but
+refraining from taking the scalp of the other because he had sandy hair
+and looked too much like a white man. Later three more Navajos were
+killed in a fight, but the rest escaped with ten horses. Jacob grew
+heartily sick of this kind of work, and made the resolve to appeal to
+the Navajos, with the result stated. He also visited the Red Lake Utes
+to the north, and all the Indians along the Sevier. Beginning with the
+band of Navajos under Agua Grande, which we had met at El Vado, they
+came north in numerous parties with perfect confidence that the Mormons
+would receive them peacefully. But they continued to despise the Pai
+Utes, considering them beneath notice.
+
+In September of the year 1870 the Major, by Brigham Young's advice, had
+engaged Jacob to go with him to Mt. Trumbull in the Uinkaret region
+adjoining the Shewits country. Jacob, wishing to see these Indians
+himself, was very willing to go. They made a camp by a spring, and
+finding some natives near, Jacob asked them to bring in some of the
+party who had taken part in the killing of the Howlands and Dunn the
+year before. Twelve or fifteen finally came, and they had a talk.
+
+     "I commenced [said Jacob] by explaining to the Indians
+     Professor Powell's business. I endeavoured to get them to
+     understand that he did not visit their country for any purpose
+     that would work evil to them, that he was not hunting gold or
+     silver or other metals; that he would be along the river next
+     season with a party of men, and if they found any of them away
+     from the river in the hills, they must be their friends and
+     show them places where there was water if necessary."
+
+They replied that friends of theirs from across the river had declared
+the men were miners and advised killing them, for if they found mines it
+would bring great evil among them. The men were followed and killed
+while asleep. They declared that had they been correctly informed about
+the men they would not have killed them. Kapurats ("No-arm," meaning the
+Major), they said, could travel and sleep in their country unmolested
+and they would show him and his men the watering-places.[27]
+
+On December 19th we moved our camp from Eight Mile Spring to a place
+below the gap in the Chocolate Cliffs south of Kanab and not far below
+the Utah-Arizona boundary; the 37th parallel. Bonnemort and I remained
+behind to gather up the last articles and it was dark when we reached
+the new ground. Our large tent was pitched in the creek bottom with the
+others not far off, making quite a settlement. The weather was rainy and
+cold, but a conical sheet-iron stove heated the tent well and there we
+had dry comfortable evenings, some of the men singing, some writing
+letters or plotting notes, others reading and still others perhaps
+playing a game. Bonnemort was something of a singer and was specially
+fond of _Beautiful Isle of the Sea_, but Jack still maintained his
+complete supremacy as a tenor. His repertory always increased and he was
+ever ready to entertain us. One of his selections I remember was the
+ballad:
+
+    "I wandered by the brookside,
+      I wandered by the mill;
+    I could not hear the brook flow,
+      The noisy wheel was still,
+    There was no burr of grasshopper
+      No chirp of any bird,
+    But the beating of my own heart
+      Was all the sound I heard."
+
+Mrs. Thompson had a sweet voice and knew a lot of songs, which were
+frequently heard issuing from her tent, and this, with the presence of
+Mrs. Powell and the baby, added to the locality a pleasant homelike air.
+Both Mrs. Thompson and Mrs. Powell had been familiar with camp life,
+Mrs. Powell having spent a winter, 1868-69, with the Major in Middle
+Park, Colorado, near the camp of Chief Douglas, the father of our friend
+Douglas Boy.
+
+Andy cooked all the meals on a fire out of doors, and they were no
+longer served in our "go fur it boys" canyon style, but a large canvas,
+showing by its colour the effects of exposure, was elegantly spread on
+the ground and around its edges the tin plates, cups, etc., were
+arranged, with the beanpot and other provender in the middle. This
+method continued henceforth. The company would sit around on the ground,
+each in whatever position was comfortable. Liberal portions of bread and
+sorghum molasses formed the dessert, and after a while so indispensable
+did the sorghum grow that we dubbed it the "staff of life." It was easy
+to get, quantities being produced in "Dixie." Kanab besides being
+favoured with two mails a week had a telegraph line connecting with the
+settlements of the Virgin region and with Salt Lake, and we now felt
+that once more we had a grip on the world.
+
+On the 22d of December the Major, accompanied by Captain Dodds, Riley,
+and one of the Kanab men, John Stewart, a son of the bishop, started for
+the Kaibab to find a way to get rations to the Colorado next year near
+the mouth of the Little Colorado. The weather now was rather stormy but
+Prof. continued his observations as well as he could, and parties were
+sent out in a number of directions to place flags and monuments for the
+geodetic work. The base line was to be measured south from near Kanab
+for about ten miles. Christmas day came with rain and small prospect of
+special enjoyment, and we all kept the shelter of the tent after hunting
+up the horses in mud ankle-deep. But our dinner was a royal feast, for
+Mrs. Thompson herself made a huge plum-pudding and Prof. supplied butter
+and milk from Kanab, making this feature of the holiday an immense
+success. In the evening a number of us rode up to the settlement to
+witness a dance that had been announced to take place in the
+schoolhouse, tabernacle, or town hall--the stone building in the corner
+of the fort which answered all these functions. The room was about 15 by
+30 feet and was lighted by three candles, a kerosene lamp, and a blazing
+fire of pitch pine. Two violins were in lively operation, one being
+played by Lyman Hamblin, a son of Old Jacob, and there was a refreshing
+air of decorous gaiety about the whole assemblage. Dancing is a regular
+amusement among the Mormons and is encouraged by the authorities as a
+harmless and beneficial recreation. At that time the dances were always
+opened with prayer. Two sets could occupy the floor at one time and to
+even things up, and prevent any one being left out, each man on entering
+was given a number, the numbers being called in rotation. None of our
+party joined as we were such strangers, but we were made welcome in
+every respect. It was ten o'clock before we left, and the way being dim
+and muddy, midnight was on before we threw off saddles at our camp.
+
+The next morning work was begun on the base line, but for some days the
+weather was so bad that little was accomplished. The year 1871 ended in
+this way and we hoped the new one would be more propitious.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 24: Five years later Jacob came near being drowned in crossing
+here. Lorenzo W. Roundy was lost, as well as two waggons loaded with
+supplies. The scow they had tried to use tilted, throwing everything
+into the fierce torrent.]
+
+[Footnote 25: It was in the rapid in Marble Canyon near the mouth of the
+canyon of this creek that Frank M. Brown was drowned in July, 1889.]
+
+[Footnote 26: _Jacob Hamblin_, a Narrative, etc. Faith-promoting
+Series--Juvenile Instructor Office, Salt Lake City--1881.]
+
+[Footnote 27: In 1864 the danger from the Pai Utes, who had not been
+well treated, increased till Jacob had to take the matter in hand and
+made a visit to the place where they were gathering for attack. He was
+asked how many men he wanted to go with him, and he answered, "One, and
+no arms; not even a knife in sight."]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+     Reconnoitring and Triangulating--A Pai Ute New Year's
+     Dance--The Major Goes to Salt Lake--Snowy Days on the
+     Kaibab--At Pipe Spring--Gold Hunters to the Colorado--Visits
+     to the Uinkaret Country--Craters and Lava--Finding the
+     Hurricane Ledge--An Interview with a Cougar--Back to Kanab.
+
+
+New-year's day, 1872, passed with nothing more eventful than the return
+of John Stewart in advance of the Major with the news that they had
+succeeded in reaching the Colorado at the foot of Kanab Canyon. They had
+given up the Kaibab direction because of snow which interfered with
+their advance. He also said that Riley had found gold at the mouth of
+the Kanab. The telegraph operator was so deeply impressed with this
+statement that it was telegraphed as an item of news to Salt Lake. Work
+on the base line went on daily by our topographical staff, but presently
+it was turned over to a special gang under Captain Dodds, so that the
+rest of us might be freed to carry on the triangulation. On Monday the
+15th, Prof., Jones, Mac, and I started with some pack animals on a ten
+days' reconnaissance trip over the Kaibab, first going to Kanab for some
+supplies and taking dinner with Jacob at the house of his wife Louisa.
+According to the Mormon custom, though it was not universal, Jacob had
+several wives, I do not know how many. I met two, and he was besides
+that "sealed" to one or two Pai Ute women. Sister Louisa was the one I
+came to know best and she was a good woman. We had an excellent dinner
+with rich cream for the coffee which was an unusual treat. In all Mormon
+settlements the domestic animals were incorporated at once and they
+received special care; butter, milk, and cheese were consequently
+abundant; but in a "Gentile" frontier town all milk, if procurable at
+all, was drawn from a sealed tin. The same was true of vegetables. The
+empty tin was the chief decoration of such advance settlements, and with
+the entire absence of any attempt at arrangement, at order, or to start
+fruit or shade trees, or do any other sensible thing, the "Gentile"
+frontier town was a ghastly hodge-podge of shacks in the midst of a sea
+of refuse. As pioneers the Mormons were superior to any class I have
+ever come in contact with, their idea being home-making and not skimming
+the cream off the country with a six-shooter and a whiskey bottle.
+Jacob's home was simple but it was comfortable. He was a poor man for he
+did his work for the people with very slight compensation.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+From Part Way down South Side above Bright Angel Creek.]
+
+From Jacob's we proceeded to our old camp ground at Eight-Mile Spring
+and there spent the night. Prof. had forgotten his sextant and rode back
+to our main camp for it. We continued in the morning without him to a
+place farther east called Navajo Well, a deep spring in a sort of
+natural hole, somewhat aided by native hands, in the midst of some
+sloping, barren rocks, the last spot where one would look for water. A
+large flat stone covered the top, the water being dipped out at one side
+where there was a depression leading down to it. A careless man, or one
+not familiar with the country, might ride within a few yards of this
+spring without noticing its existence. Prof. came along towards night
+and the next day we went on eastward to the top of the Kaibab Plateau
+and there put up a geodetic monument. Here we made a dry camp having
+water for ourselves in a keg and some canteens, while the animals got
+along very well as there was a little snow on the ground. Proceeding
+from this place eastward we came to the edge of the plateau opposite
+the largest of a series of four or five peculiar red sandstone peaks.
+The Mormons had explored a waggon road across at this place and the
+grades were easy. We followed the road and reached House Rock Valley
+about ten miles north of House Rock Spring where we went to get water
+and camp. We had started late and by the time we got down into the
+valley darkness had fallen but a bright moon compensated for the absence
+of daylight, enabling us to see plainly our landmarks. We jogged along
+toward the spring and I sang _Oh the Lone Starry Hours, Give Me Love_,
+when I was suddenly interrupted by old Thunderbolt's pack loosening.
+Thunderbolt was a horse that waited for such an event with remarkable
+docility and when it arrived he made the best of the opportunity to get
+even with us for drawing the lash-rope so tight. Before I could dismount
+and lay hands on him the pack slipped back over his rump which was the
+signal he watched for. Joyously flinging his heels in the moonlit air,
+jumping high off the ground the next instant, and then darting off into
+the misty night with a clatter and a whirl he spread the contents of
+that pack to all points of the compass. This revenge adequately
+accomplished we were permitted to catch him. A long search was necessary
+before we had gathered up all the things and replaced the pack on the
+now meek and patient Thunderbolt, and half-past eight by the watch
+arrived as we got to water and supper.
+
+We put up another "station" back of House Rock Spring and spent a day
+reconnoitring. On Sunday, January 21st, we went to Red Cliff and made a
+camp under some cedars, as we wished to put a station on the highest
+peak. The camp was a dry one, but we had the usual supply of water in
+the keg and canteens, and as the temperature was very low we did not get
+thirsty. There was an abundance of wood for the camp, but Mac and I
+concluded we wanted more warmth and light, so we set fire to two large
+cedars that stood alone, and they made a superb illumination, burning
+all night. In the morning we got to the top of the cliff, and built a
+monument, with a high pole and flag, to which to "sight" from other
+geodetic points, while Prof. took observations for time and latitude.
+When our work was finished we went back to House Rock Spring, arriving
+just before sunset. In the morning Jones and I went across and climbed
+the Kaibab, intending to put up a monument there, but we could find no
+proper site and returned to camp. Prof. and Mac had been off in another
+direction, but they got in just before supper-time. We had not
+finished this meal when, night having come on, we heard through the
+darkness sounds of some one approaching, and thirteen Navajos one after
+the other came into the light of our fire, with their greeting of "Bueno
+heh!" and camped just below us. Some were mounted, some were on foot.
+The chief was Ashtishkal, whom we had met before at the Crossing of the
+Fathers (El Vado). They were all friendly, and did not intrude upon us.
+They were on their way north to trade with the Mormons, having come
+across at the Paria. The night was very cold, and a heavy, dry snow
+began to fall, so that in the morning when we arose we could see but a
+short distance. The Navajos about sunrise stood silently in a circle
+till at a signal they all sat down and began singing, continuing for
+several minutes a low musical refrain, and then all rose to their feet
+again. They left us early, with friendly demonstrations, and went on
+their way towards Kanab, while we moved to another spring in a gulch
+farther up the valley, where we made a tent out of a pair of blankets to
+keep off the snow. During the stormy night our animals started to leave
+us, travelling before the wind, but we suspected their intention and got
+out and headed them back, much to their disgust, no doubt. Thursday,
+January 25th, came bright and clear, but still extremely cold. Prof.
+with Mac started across the Kaibab by the trail, while Jones and I went
+farther north by the waggon road referred to, camping near the station
+we had made on the way out. The next morning we did some work there, and
+then went on to the Navajo Well, reaching it at sunset, where we watered
+our stock and continued by moonlight through a piercing wind to
+Eight-Mile Spring, which enabled us to reach our main camp in time for
+dinner on Saturday the 27th. Prof. got back the evening before at 7.30,
+having made another station on the Kaibab on the way over and travelled
+twenty-five miles.
+
+About a mile from Kanab the Kaibab band of Pai Utes were encamped, and
+we had a good opportunity to visit them and study their ways.[28] The
+Major was specially interested and made voluminous notes. They came to
+the village and our camp a great deal. While they were dirty, they were
+not more dishonest than white men, so far as I could learn. Their
+wickiups, about seven feet high, were merely a lot of cedar boughs, set
+around a three-quarter circle, forming a conical shelter, the opening
+towards the south. In front they had their fire, with a mealing-stone or
+two, and round about were their conical and other baskets, used for
+collecting grass seeds, pinon nuts, and similar vegetable food, which in
+addition to rabbits formed their principal subsistence. At certain times
+they all went to the Kaibab deer-hunting. Their guns, where they had
+any, were of the old muzzle-loading type, with outside hammers to fire
+the caps. Many still used the bow-and-arrow, and some knew how to make
+stone arrow-heads. We learned the process, which is not difficult. Their
+clothing was, to some extent, deerskin, but mainly old clothes obtained
+from the whites. They made a very warm robe out of rabbit skins, twisted
+into a long rope and then sewed side to side into the desired size and
+shape. But when we traded for one of these as a curiosity we placed it
+beside a large ant hill for some days before bringing it into camp. They
+obtained fire by the use of matches when they could get them, but
+otherwise they used the single stick or "palm" drill. We went to the
+camp one moonlight night, January 6th, to see a sort of New-Year's
+dance. They had stripped a cedar tree of all branches but a small tuft
+at the top, and around this the whole band formed a large circle,
+dancing and singing. The dancing was the usual hippity-hop or "lope"
+sideways, each holding hands with his or her neighbours. In the centre
+stood a man, seeming to be the custodian of the songs and a poet
+himself. He would first recite the piece, and then all would sing it,
+circling round at the same time. We accepted their cordial invitation to
+join in the ceremony, and had a lot of fun out of our efforts, which
+greatly amused them too, our mistakes raising shouts of laughter. The
+poet seemed to originate some of the songs, but they had others that
+were handed down. One of these, which I learned later, was:
+
+    "Montee-ree-ai-ma, mo-quontee-kai-ma
+    Umpa-shu-shu-ra-ga-va
+    Umpa-shu-shu-ra-ga-va
+    Umpa-ga-va, shu-ra-ga-va
+    Montee-ree-ai-ma."
+
+This, being translated, signifies that a long talk is enough to bore a
+hole in a cliff; at least, that was the interpretation we obtained.
+Another popular one was:
+
+    "Ca, shakum, poo kai
+    Ca, shakum poo kai
+    Ca, shakum tee kai
+    Ca, shakum tee kai,"
+
+these lines being repeated like the others over and over and over again.
+They were highly philosophical, for they explain that you must kill your
+rabbit (shakum) before you eat him. I do not remember that they sang
+these particular songs on that occasion, but they will serve as
+examples.
+
+On February 1st the Major left camp for Salt Lake with Mrs. Powell and
+the baby. Jack went along to accompany them as far as Tokerville on the
+Virgin River. Before leaving, the Major settled up with Beaman, who was
+now to separate from the party. The Major intended to go to Washington
+to ask Congress for another appropriation to continue the work of
+exploration and map-making when we had finished that already planned. On
+the 6th Clem and Bonnemort arrived from an expedition to make
+photographs down the Kanab Canyon, where the Major had been with Riley
+and Dodds. They had met with bad luck, and did not get a single
+negative. The silver bath got out of order, and the horse bearing the
+camera fell off a cliff and landed on top of the camera, which had been
+tied on the outside of the pack, with a result that need not be
+described. Bonnemort's time was now up; he wanted to go back to
+prospecting, and we reluctantly said good-bye to him. On the 16th of
+February, finding our central camp no longer practicable, we abandoned
+it and operated in small parties from various nearby points, finally
+returning again in three or four days to near the site of the old camp.
+MacEntee then wanted to go to prospecting also, and he departed. He was
+an interesting, companionable young man, educated at the University of
+Michigan, seeking a fortune, and he was desirous of striking it rich.
+Whether he ever did or not I have not learned.
+
+While camped below Kanab, Clem and I in walking one day saw a place
+where the creek which flowed on a level with the surroundings suddenly
+plunged into a deep mud canyon. This canyon had been cut back from far
+below by the undermining action of the falling water, and it was plain
+to see that it would continue its retrogression till it eventually
+reached the mouth of the great canyon several miles above, but I did not
+dream that it could accomplish this work as rapidly as it actually did
+years after. During a great flood it washed a canyon not only to Kanab
+but for miles up the gorge, sweeping away at one master stroke hundreds
+of acres of arable land and leaving a mud chasm forty feet deep. Had the
+fall we examined been arranged then so that the water might glide down,
+the fearful washout would not have occurred. There are thousands of
+places in the West to-day that require treatment to conserve arable
+land, and in time the task may be undertaken by the Government.
+
+Cap's health being such that he deemed it inadvisable to continue work
+in the field, he had severed his connection with the expedition, after
+finishing the preliminary map of Green River, and was temporarily
+settled in Kanab, where he had been for some time. On Wednesday,
+February 21st, Prof., Mrs. Thompson, and I took supper with him in one
+of the log houses at the fort, and on the 22d several of us accepted his
+invitation to dinner, a sort of farewell, for on the following day we
+started with our whole outfit for the Kaibab. We were extremely sorry to
+lose Cap, with his generous spirit and cheery ways, but when one has
+been punctured by a minie-ball he has to heed warnings. All day long we
+travelled through sandy hills gradually rising toward the plateau, the
+foot-hills of which we reached late in the afternoon. We had followed a
+waggon road with our pack-train up to this point, but here we struck off
+on a trail that was said to be a shorter way to the canyon we were
+aiming for, and a little before sunset we came to the brink of a steep
+slope, almost a cliff, where a picturesque, a romantic view opened
+before us. Below stretched away to the south a narrow, deep, and sharply
+defined valley or canyon one-eighth mile wide, the bottom of which
+seemed perfectly flat. A light snow which had fallen the night before
+whitened the sharp slopes, but from the valley bottom it had melted
+away, leaving a clear line of demarkation on either side and producing
+an extremely beautiful effect under the evening glow. Tall pine trees
+accented the scene, which was one of the most inviting I had ever
+beheld. One of our helpers from Kanab had been over the trail, and led
+us down to a small but excellent spring, within a quarter of a mile of
+which we camped, passing a most comfortable night.
+
+Before we had finished slinging the last pack in the morning, a heavy
+grey sky began to sift down thickly falling snowflakes gently as if not
+wishing to give alarm. But when we were fairly under way this mildness
+vanished, and the storm smote our caravan with fierce and blinding
+gusts, amidst which progress was difficult. After four miles up the
+valley through beautiful pine trees of great height, we came to a
+deserted log cabin only half roofed over, and there we stopped to make
+our temporary headquarters. The Stewarts of Kanab had started a saw-mill
+at this place, but as yet the work had not gone very far. The snow
+ceased by the time we had thrown off the packs, and we made ourselves as
+comfortable as circumstances permitted. Prof. had a tent put up for Mrs.
+Thompson, while some took possession of the half-roofed house, for by
+keeping on the side where the board cover was they were slightly
+sheltered. With two or three of the others I pitched a small tent. There
+was plenty of fat pine, and rousing fires made the valley seem
+habitable. A fine little brook swept full grown fifteen inches in
+diameter from under a cliff two hundred feet above the valley bottom,
+and there was no lack of good water. Our trouble was with the horses and
+mules, for we had no grain for them, and if the snow got very deep they
+would not be able to paw down to the bunch grass. The snow soon began
+again, and all night it fell with aggravating facility. Sunday morning
+opened as leaden and dark as a February day could be, and there was no
+cessation of the showers of whiteness that were rapidly building up on
+the ground a formidable barrier to our operations. As I was wearing
+rather low brogans, having discarded top-boots as too close-fitting and
+uncomfortable around camp, I now made for myself a pair of leggins out
+of pieces of a common but heavy seamless sack. When these were buttoned
+in place they answered perfectly to protect my legs from the snow. We
+hoped Monday would begin the week with a clear sky, but we were
+disappointed. We had to sally out to hunt horses, hoping at the same
+time to come across a deer, but that hope was not realised. As I got far
+from camp in the midst of the tall pines and the unbroken snow sheet, I
+suddenly became aware of a whispering sound, which I could not at first
+account for, as I did not believe in fairies. Standing perfectly still,
+I perceived that it was produced by the friction of the snowflakes upon
+the pine needles. It was a weird, ghost-like language which I had never
+listened to before.
+
+Prof. went up one thousand feet on the mountain and climbed a tree 125
+feet high with a determination to see something in spite of the snow. He
+caught a glimpse of the south wall of the Grand Canyon near Mt.
+Trumbull, miles to the west. On Tuesday he started George Adair, one of
+our Mormon assistants, back to Kanab for more rations, and directed
+Jones and Captain Dodds to get ready to start the next day for the
+south-east corner of the plateau, while Andy and I were to go to the
+south-west corner. Wednesday, February 28th, came clear, with the snow
+lying twelve inches on the level, but some of the horses were missing,
+and the day was spent in hunting this wayward stock, so it was not till
+Thursday afternoon that we got started. Our paths lying for a distance
+in the same direction, we four travelled together along a divide on the
+right or west of camp. It was slow work in the deep drifts, and we had
+not made many miles when night came on. We went into camp where we were.
+The horses bothered us by trying to go back searching for grass, and
+nobody could blame them. Finally we tied the worst offender to a tree in
+a bare place where he might pick up a few mouthfuls of food, and we
+managed to sleep the rest of the night. The only sound I heard when I
+woke up at one time was the satirical voice of an owl in the far
+distance. It seemed to be saying very deliberately "poo-poo, poo-poo,"
+and that did not sound respectful. The next morning was March 1st, and
+it brought a fine sky, which would have put us quickly on the way, or
+rather in motion toward our respective goals, as there was no road or
+trail, but one of our animals which bore the mysterious name of Yawger,
+and which was the pack-horse of Andy and me, could not be found. Jones
+and Dodds went on, as they would probably soon have to separate from us
+anyhow, while we took Yawger's track, and at last found him browsing
+happily in a bare spot about a mile from our stopping place. It was two
+o'clock by the time we started on, floundering through the drifts in the
+trail of Jones and Dodds. Some drifts were so high it was all we could
+do to wallow through them even after the others had in a measure broken
+the way. After two hours of hard work in this line we came to the edge
+of a wide gully, where the advance party had halted. The slope was
+towards the south and the ground was somewhat bare, with good bunch
+grass, where the other horses were feeding, while Jones and Dodds were
+just descending from a tall pine tree. They declared nothing but snow
+could be seen in all directions on the mountain and they were going
+back. Besides it was impossible, they told me, to cross the gulch ahead.
+I did not want to turn back till I was compelled to, and I appealed to
+Andy as to whether or not he wanted to give up, not wishing to drag him
+along unwillingly. With his characteristic nonchalance he said, "Go
+ahead if you want to." Dodds had one of his own horses with him, and he
+said he would bet me that horse I could not cross the gulch. I made a
+trial, wading ahead of my horse, the pack animal following and Andy
+driving from behind. When I got into the middle it was all I could do
+to move, but I continued my efforts till suddenly the bottom seemed to
+rise, and then in a few yards the going grew easier and we emerged
+triumphantly on the other side, where we waved an adieu to the others.
+By keeping close to the boles of the large pine trees, where the wind
+had swept circular places, leaving the snow shallow, we were soon out of
+sight of our late companions.
+
+After two or three miles of tiring work the day began to fade, but we
+reached a beautiful south slope where there was little snow, with a rich
+crop of bunch grass just starting green under the vernal influence that
+was a feast for the famished horses, the snow relieving their thirst.
+While Andy the ever-faithful got supper I reconnoitred and made up my
+mind that I could reach the locality I was trying for, by following a
+ridge I saw ahead where the snow seemed moderate. We were up and off
+early. The snow was deep but we got on quite rapidly and finally reached
+the ridge, crossing two big gulches to get to it. At eleven o'clock we
+were at the end of its summit and I could see a wide area to the west
+and north. The point appeared to be one of several similar projections
+though the one we were on was the most prominent. I selected a spot for
+a monument where we dug a hole in the rocks and dirt, and then cutting a
+tall slim pine and trimming it clean we hitched Yawger to it and made
+him drag it to the hole, where by a combination of science and strength
+we got it upright. While Andy, who had great strength, lifted and pushed
+after we had together got it half way, I propped it with a strong pole
+with a Y on the end, and in a few moments we saw the flag waving
+triumphantly from its tip at least thirty feet above our heads. Around
+its base we piled the rocks, which were exceptionally heavy, waist high,
+first cutting a notch in the pine and placing therein a can containing a
+record, and our "Point F" was finished. The rest of the day I spent in
+triangulating to various other stations, and we went to bed under a
+clear sky and a milder atmosphere. In the morning I completed my
+triangulating work and by that time the snow had settled and melted so
+that the back track was much easier than the outward march, enabling us
+to get to headquarters at the spring before dark. I had been a little
+afraid that a heavy snow would come on top of the large drifts which
+would have held us prisoners for a day or two.
+
+On Wednesday, March 6th, the whole party packed up and left the valley
+by its narrow canyon outlet, a tributary of the Kanab Canyon. It began
+eight hundred feet deep and continually increased. We called it Shinumo
+Canyon because we found everywhere indications of the former presence
+of that tribe. Snow fell at intervals and we were alternately frozen and
+melted till we reached an altitude where the warmth was continuous and
+the snow became rain. Grass fresh and green and shrubs with the feeling
+of early spring surrounded us at the junction with Kanab Canyon where
+the walls were twelve hundred feet high. A mile below we camped by a
+lone cedar tree where there were "pockets" of rain-water in the rocks.
+The next day our course was laid up Kanab Canyon through thick willows
+that pulled the packs loose. One horse fell upside down in a gully, but
+he was not hurt and we pried him out and went on, camping near a large
+pool of intensely alkaline water. On the 8th going up a branch on the
+left called Pipe Spring Wash we came out on the surface, very much as
+one might reach a second floor by a staircase. This is a feature of the
+country and as one goes northward he arrives on successive platforms, in
+this manner passing through the several cliff ranges by means of
+transverse gorges that usually begin in small "box" canyons and rapidly
+deepen till they reach the full height of the cliff walls. At two
+o'clock we came to Pipe Spring. A vacant stone house of one very large
+room and a great fireplace was put at our disposal by Mr. Winsor the
+proprietor, and it was occupied by the men while Prof. had a tent put up
+for Mrs. Thompson. We found a party of miners here who had heard of the
+gold discovery at the mouth of the Kanab on the Colorado and were
+heading that way to reap the first-fruits. They were soon followed by
+hundreds more, making a steady stream down the narrow Kanab and out
+again for some time, for on reaching the river the limited opportunity
+to do any mining was at once apparent and they immediately took the back
+track swearing vengeance on the originator of the story.
+
+For protection against raiders Mr. Winsor was building a solid double
+house of blocks of sandstone, making walls three feet thick. The two
+buildings were placed about twenty feet apart, thus forming an interior
+court the length of the houses, protected at the ends by high walls and
+heavy gates. No windows opened on the exterior, but there were plenty of
+loopholes commanding every approach. A fine large spring was conducted
+subterraneously into the corner of one of the buildings and out again,
+insuring plenty of water in case of a siege. Brigham Young was part
+owner of this establishment, and it was one of the most effective places
+of defence on a small scale, that I have ever seen. It was never needed
+so far as I have heard, and even at the time I marvelled that it should
+be so elaborately prepared--far beyond anything else in the whole
+country. The cut opposite shows this fort as it was in 1903. Clem here
+told Prof. he did not care to stay with us any longer. Ill success with
+his photographs had discouraged him, but Prof. persuaded him to remain
+for a time.
+
+Until March 21st we operated around Pipe Spring triangulating and
+recording the topography, and other data, when we packed our animals
+again and laid our course across the open country towards a range of
+blue mountains seen in the south-west. One of these had been named after
+Senator Trumbull by the Major in the autumn of 1870. They were the home
+of the Uinkarets and we called the whole group by that name, discarding
+North Side Mountains, the name Ives had given when he sighted them in
+1858 from far to the south. Adjoining the Uinkaret region on the west
+was the Shewits territory where the Howlands and Dunn were killed.
+Travelling across the dry plains we came to a well defined trail about
+sunset and followed it hoping that it would lead to water. We were not
+disappointed for it took us to a pool of rain-water in a little gulley
+at the foot of some low hills. A band of wild horses roamed the plain
+and as we had been told about a pool called the Wild Band Pocket, we had
+no doubt this was the place. There was no wood anywhere, but a diligent
+search produced enough small brush to cook by, though Andy had a hard
+time of it. Clem's horse ran away from him and lost his gun, so he
+remained behind at Pipe Spring to hunt for the weapon.
+
+[Illustration: Winsor Castle, the Defensive House at Pipe Springs.
+Photograph by H. Arthur Pomroy, 1903.]
+
+[Illustration: Little Zion Valley or the Mookoontoweap, Upper Virgin
+River.
+
+Photograph by H. Arthur Pomroy, 1903.]
+
+The next day we travelled on over hilly country, following a moccasin
+trail, with here and there cedar groves as we approached nearer to the
+mountains. On the edge of night traces of water were found in a gulch
+near the foot of Trumbull, and while Jack and a new member of our force,
+Will Johnson of Kanab, dug for more, Prof., Jones, and I scoured the
+vicinity in search of a spring or pocket, but though we found many old
+wickiups there was no water. The Uinkarets had evidently camped here in
+wet weather. When we returned we were told that the little trace of
+water in the gulch had disappeared completely after the digging, a sad
+development which was accepted by all but one old white horse which
+stood on the edge of the hole for an hour or more patiently waiting. Our
+kegs and canteens provided enough to make bread which we ate with
+sorghum, and as early as possible in the morning we pushed on without
+breakfast, three men scouting ahead to discover the pool where the Major
+in the autumn of 1870 had camped. Prof. finally found it, a large pool
+of about a hundred barrels of clear, clean water, in a lava gulch,
+surrounded by cedar and pinon trees. Andy then gave us breakfast and
+dinner at the same time, eleven o'clock. Another new member of our party
+was Beaman's successor, Fennemore, from Salt Lake, who had joined us at
+Pipe Spring on March 19th, and he was prepared to photograph the region.
+We reconnoitred the neighbourhood during the afternoon, and the next
+morning Jones and I rode in one direction around Mount Trumbull, while
+Prof. and Captain Dodds rode the other way, to ascertain the lay of the
+land, and especially to find a ranch which some St. George men had
+started in this locality. Jones and I met Whitmore, the proprietor of
+the ranch, and a friend of his, who informed us the ranch was six miles
+farther on. We concluded not to go to it, but when Prof. and Captain
+Dodds got in after dark they told us they had gone the whole way. The
+following day, Monday March 25th, all the party except Andy and a new
+member, Alf Young of Kanab, climbed to the summit of Mount Trumbull,
+finding the ascent very gradual and easy and taking the horses to the
+top, which was 2440 feet above the pool and 8650 above sea level,
+commanding a magnificent view in every direction, as far to the
+south-east as Mount San Francisco. Jones, Jack, Fennemore, and I
+remained there all night while the rest returned to camp. Jones and I
+wanted to do some topographical work and get sights to some of our
+other stations, and Fennemore, assisted by Jack, wanted pictures.
+
+Descending the opposite side the next day we went to a spring in an oak
+grove which Prof. had seen, where the others were already encamped. On
+the 27th, Prof. and I climbed a high cinder peak, of which there were
+many, to get a view, and then went to Whitmore's Ranch, where we had a
+talk with him to get points on the region. He told us he had followed a
+trail to the Colorado, about twelve miles, to what he called the Ute
+Crossing. If I remember correctly he had taken a horse down at that
+point. The next day Johnson and I put a signal flag on one of the high
+mountains, afterwards named Logan, forming Signal Station Number 7. This
+was a volcanic district and there were many old craters. Near the Oak
+Spring camp was an extensive sheet of lava, seeming to have cooled but a
+year or two before. Its surface was all fractured, but there were no
+trees on its lower extremity and where it had flowed around a hill its
+recent plasticity was exceedingly distinct. It had come from a crater,
+about five hundred feet high, two miles north. This had once been a cone
+but it was now disrupted, the lava having burst through to the north and
+to the south, leaving two sections standing, the stream to the south
+being one quarter mile wide and a mile and a half long, that on the
+north one mile wide and about the same in length. The depth of these
+streams was not far from thirty feet, and in spite of the exceedingly
+rugged surface the southern stream was marked by deeply worn trails
+running to and from a small spring situated in the middle of it. Beside
+this spring one of the men from the ranch had found a human skeleton,
+covered with fragments of lava, with the decayed remains of a wicker
+water-jug between the ribs, marking some unrecorded tragedy. We
+estimated that less than three hundred years had passed since the last
+outburst from the crater. As there were pine trees a hundred years old
+on the lava where it was more disintegrated near the point of outpour,
+the age of the flow could not have been less than that.
+
+Friday the 29th being cloudy and stormy nothing in the line of geodetic
+work was done and we could only rest in camp. Dodds and Jones who had
+gone to explore a way to the Grand Canyon came in reporting success.
+Saturday morning Jones and Fennemore started for Kanab to bring out more
+rations and meet us either at Fort Pierce or at Berry's Spring near St.
+George, while Prof. with Dodds and Johnson went to try to follow the
+trail Whitmore had told about to the river, but after four miles they
+gave it up and climbed by a side trail to the plateau again. They made a
+dry camp and the next day went on till they found water enough for the
+horses in some pools on the rocks, and here, leaving the others to
+continue the reconnaissance, Prof. came back to our camp, arriving in a
+snow-storm. It had been snowing with us at intervals all day. The next
+day was April first, and with it came still heavier snow. We planned to
+move down to the edge of the Grand Canyon, and Jack and Andy started as
+Jack wished to make some photographs there, but the snow continuing we
+concluded to wait till another day. When that came the snow was quite
+deep on the ground and was still falling hard, which it continued to do
+most of the time, preventing us from moving. Fennemore had brought with
+him a copy of _The Count of Monte Cristo_, which I had never read, and
+in its pages I soon became oblivious to the surroundings. The snow kept
+on the next day also and all the men out returned to the main camp,
+Dodds and Johnson having reached the river bank. When another morning
+dawned and showed no cessation of the aggravating storm, with the snow
+fifteen inches on the level, Prof. said he would pack up Friday the 5th
+and get down to lower country around St. George. The day came clear and
+sunny and the snow began to melt. We headed for the Pine Valley
+Mountains back of St. George and made about twenty miles with no snow
+after the first six, the altitude dropping to where the temperature was
+milder. Prof. had inquired at the ranch about trails, but there were so
+many cattle trails that we did not get on the right one. We made a dry
+camp and early the following morning went on, not being able to see any
+landmarks because of the clouds. Half an hour after starting a thick
+snow-storm set in but we kept going, till in about a mile and a half the
+world seemed suddenly to end. Above, below, and around us was a great
+blank whiteness. Dismounting and cautiously advancing on foot we
+discovered that we were on the brink of a very high cliff. As we did not
+know which way to turn we threw off the packs and stopped where we were.
+Spreading out blankets we scraped the snow from them into the kettles to
+melt for water. Then by holding a blanket up over Andy by the four
+corners he was able, with some chips he had previously chopped out of
+the side of a dead pine, to start a fire, by which he proceeded to cook
+dinner.
+
+When the snow fell less heavily we could peer down and then saw that the
+cliff was continuous in both directions. By half-past two, with our kegs
+and canteens filled with the snow water, we were again on the way
+following along to find a place to go down, but we saw none that seemed
+practicable, and at last, having made altogether five miles, we halted
+for the night in a grove of cedars, where we had a good fire and were
+comfortable though our rations were now growing scarce. Snow at
+intervals continued all day up to bedtime. The next day was Sunday. We
+travelled twenty miles along the line of cliffs and camped near a canyon
+in which we found pools of good water. We saw an antelope during the day
+but could not get it. Andy baked up the last of our flour for supper and
+put on a pot of beans and one of dried peaches to cook for breakfast.
+The beans were edible in the morning and we disposed of them and the
+peaches and went on our way. After a day of many ups and downs we
+arrived about two o'clock at a ranch called Gould's or Workman's, where
+we bought five dollars worth of corn-meal and milk. We were now on what
+the inhabitants of the region called Hurricane Hill, and from this we
+applied the name Hurricane Ledge to the long line of sharp cliffs we had
+followed, which begin at the Virgin River and extend, almost unbroken
+and eight hundred to a thousand feet high, south to the Grand Canyon,
+forming the western boundary of the Uinkaret Plateau. From Gould's we
+had a waggon road and following it we were led to the brink of the
+Hurricane Ledge, where a road had been constructed to the bottom. Before
+descending we took a final look at the enchanting view opening away to
+the north and north-west. At our feet was the Virgin Valley with the
+green fields of Tokerville, while beyond rose magnificent cliffs
+culminating to the north-west in the giant buttes and precipices of the
+Mookoontoweap, or, as the Mormons call it, Little Zion Valley. Topping
+the whole sweep of magnificent kaleidoscopic topography were the Pine
+Valley Mountains and the lofty cliffs of the Colob and Markargunt
+plateaus. It has ever since been my opinion that few outlooks in all
+the world are superior for colour and form to that stretching north from
+the northern part of the Hurricane Ledge.[29]
+
+Descending to the valley we arrived just at dusk at Berry's Spring,
+where our waggon under the direction of Jones had come with supplies.
+The spring was an excellent one and the rivulet flowing away from it was
+bordered with large wild-rose bushes. Though the waggon and supplies
+were there Jones was not, for we had expected to come in from farther
+west past Fort Pierce, and he had gone on to that place to tell us where
+he had decided to camp. Clem had found his gun and come out with them,
+the others of the party being Fennemore and George Adair. Jones came
+back the next day and prepared to start with Andy and Johnson for
+several days' work in the Pine Valley Mountains, while Jack, Captain
+Dodds, Fennemore, and I were to return to the Uinkaret region to
+complete certain work there. Some goods to be distributed to the natives
+from the Indian Bureau arrived at St. George and Prof. went there with
+George Adair to have a talk with the Indians to be found, and distribute
+goods. We had seen no Indians at all in the Uinkaret region. He
+discovered the Shewits who came in to be afraid of us, thinking we
+wanted to kill them, but they were willing to accept anything they could
+get in the line of presents. Hardly any would acknowledge themselves to
+be either Uinkarets or Shewits.
+
+On April 12th, according to the plan, Jack, Dodds, Fennemore, and I
+started back to the Uinkaret Mountains, following the trail we had tried
+to strike coming out. It led past a place called Fort Pierce, a small
+stone building the settlers had formerly used as an advance post against
+the Shewits and Uinkarets. There we spent the night, and the next day
+after some trouble we got on the right trail, and on Monday, the 15th of
+April, we again reached what we had called Oak Spring, near Mount
+Trumbull, and the southern flow of lava already described. The following
+day Jack and Fennemore went down to the brink of the Grand Canyon, at
+the foot of a sort of valley the Uinkarets called Toroweap, while with
+Dodds I climbed the peak later named after Senator Logan, and attempted
+some triangulation, but the air was so murky I could not get my sights
+and had to return for them the next morning. The day after that we
+climbed Mount Trumbull, and I triangulated from there. One of my sights
+from Logan was to a conical butte near which we had camped as we came
+out, and near which we had found a large ant-hill covered with small,
+perfect quartz crystals that sparkled in the sun like diamonds. When I
+sighted to this butte, for want of a better name, I recorded it
+temporarily as Diamond Butte, remembering the crystals, and the name
+became fixed, which shows how unintentionally names are sometimes
+bestowed. We examined the lava flows and the crater again, and I made a
+sketch in pencil from another point of view from one I had made during
+our former sojourn. Then we joined Jack and Fennemore, who had been
+taking negatives at the canyon edge. On the 20th Dodds and I climbed
+down the cliffs about three thousand feet to the water at a rapid called
+Lava Falls. Across the river we could see a very large spring, but of
+course we could not get over to it. Returning to Oak Spring, we spent
+there another night, and in the morning, while the others started for
+headquarters, I rode around to the ranch to inquire about a spring I had
+heard something about existing on the St. George trail; but the solitary
+man I found there, who came out of the woods in response to my shout, a
+walking arsenal, did not know anything concerning it. After drinking a
+quart or two of milk, which he kindly offered me, I rode on to join my
+companions by continuing around the mountain, "running in" the trail as
+I went with a prismatic compass. Presently I saw a cougar sitting
+upright behind a big log, calmly staring at me, so I dismounted and sent
+a Winchester bullet in his direction. My mule was highly nervous about
+firearms, and having to restrain her antics by putting my arm through
+the bridle rein, her snorting skittishness both at the rifle and the
+cougar disturbed my aim and my shot went a trifle under. The bullet
+seemed to clip the log, but if it hit the cougar the effect was not what
+I expected, for with a rush like a sky-rocket the animal disappeared in
+the top of the pine tree overhead, and I could see nothing more of it
+though I rode about looking for it. Not wishing to dally here, I spurred
+on to overtake my party, but in trying a short cut I passed beyond them,
+as they had by that time halted in some cedars for lunch. The man at
+the ranch had told me that Whitmore was due to arrive that day, and
+having missed a part of the trail by the short cut, I could not judge by
+the tracks as to where my party were, and not caring to waste time, I
+rode on and on till I had gone so far I did not want to turn back.
+Evening came, but there was a good moon, and I did not stop till eight
+o'clock. The night was cold; the plain was barren and bleak. I had no
+coat, but with the saddle blanket and a handful of dead brush, which I
+burned by installments, I managed to warm myself enough to sleep by
+short intervals. I was on my feet with the dawn, but my mule was nowhere
+to be seen, though I had hoppled her well with my bridle reins. I
+tracked the mule about five miles to a muddy place where there had been
+water, caught her, and rode back to my saddle, when I continued my
+journey, running in the trail as I went. I became pretty thirsty and
+hungry, but the only thing for me to do was to continue to our main
+camp. Had I gone back I might have missed our men again, for there had
+been some talk about a short-cut trail, and I feared they might try it.
+At two o'clock I reached Black Rock Canyon, where there was a
+water-pocket full of warm and dirty water, but both the mule and I took
+a drink and I rode on, passing Fort Pierce at sunset. Off on my right I
+perceived ten or twelve Shewits Indians on foot travelling rapidly along
+in Indian file, and as the darkness fell and I had to go through some
+wooded gulches I confess I was a little uncomfortable and kept my rifle
+in readiness; but I was not molested and reached camp about ten o'clock,
+where I ate a large piece of bread with molasses, after a good drink of
+water, and went to bed. The others arrived the following afternoon. I
+had left notes for them by the trail in cleft-sticks, so they knew that
+I was ahead. This was the longest trip I ever made without water or
+food.
+
+We prepared to start out again in different directions; one party was to
+go to the Pine Valley Mountains, another to Pipe Spring and the mouth of
+the Paria to look after our property there, a third up the Virgin Valley
+for photographs, and a fourth to St. George and the Virgin range of
+mountains south-west of that town. Prof. headed this last party, and he
+took me as his topographical assistant. April 27th we rode into St.
+George, a town I was much interested to see. I found a very pretty,
+neat, well-ordered little city of about fifteen hundred population, with
+a good schoolhouse, a stone tabernacle with a spire, and a court house,
+the water running in ditches along the streets for irrigating purposes
+as well as for drinking. About a mile below the town we camped, and we
+could hear the band playing a serenade to one of the officials who was
+to start the next day on a long journey. After several days of feeling
+our way about in the rugged and dry region below St. George, we finally
+discovered a good water-pocket, from which Prof. and I made a long, hard
+ride and climb, and about sunset camped at the base of what is now
+called Mount Bangs, the highest peak of the Virgin Mountains, for which
+we were aiming. The next day we climbed an additional eleven hundred
+feet to its summit, and completed our work in time by swift riding to
+get to our main camp at the water-pocket by half-past six.
+
+It was an easy trip back to St. George, following an old trail, and then
+we made our way to Kanab again, where we put all our notes in shape and
+fitted out for the journey to the mouth of the Dirty Devil across the
+unknown country.
+
+
+[Illustration: In the Unknown Country.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 28: For the linguistic classification of stocks and tribes of
+the United States, see Appendix, _The North Americans of Yesterday_, by
+F. S. Dellenbaugh.]
+
+[Footnote 29: For a description of Little Zion Valley, see "A New Valley
+of Wonders," by F. S. Dellenbaugh, _Scribner's Magazine_, January,
+1904.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+     Off for the unknown Country--A lonely Grave--Climbing a
+     Hog-back to a green grassy Valley--Surprising a Ute
+     Camp--Towich-a-tick-a-boo--Following a Blind Trail--The
+     Unknown Mountains Become Known--Down a deep Canyon--To the
+     Paria with the _Canonita_--John D. Lee and Lonely Dell.
+
+
+Andy and Captain Dodds, who had gone to the mouth of the Paria to
+ascertain the condition of our boats, returned May 15th, reporting the
+boats all right, but the caches we had left torn up by wolves and
+prospectors. The latter had stolen oars and other things, and gone down
+on a raft to be wrecked at the first rapid in Marble Canyon, where they
+just escaped with their lives. A settler had established himself there a
+short time before, the notorious John D. Lee, who was reputed to have
+led the massacre of the unfortunate Missourians at Mountain Meadows in
+1857, and who had eluded capture all these years. He had been "cut off,"
+nominally at least, from the Mormon Church, and had lived in the most
+out-of-the-way places, constantly on his guard. Our men took all our
+ropes and remaining materials from the caches to his cabin, where they
+would be safe till our arrival. We prepared for the trip eastward across
+the unknown country to the mouth of the Dirty Devil River, and by the
+22d of May I had completed the preliminary map of the region to westward
+which we had just reconnoitred. Mrs. Thompson was to stay in Kanab, for
+Prof. decided that it would not be advisable for her to accompany him on
+this journey, although she was the most cheerful and resolute explorer
+of the whole company. A large tent was erected for her in the corner of
+Jacob's garden, and she was to take her meals with Sister Louisa, whose
+house stood close by. With Fuzz, a most intelligent dog, for a companion
+in her tent and the genial Sister Louisa for a near neighbour she was
+satisfactorily settled. Fuzz had the peculiarity of sympathising with
+the Navajos in their contempt for the Pai Utes. The latter roused his
+ire on the instant, but when a Navajo came up, with his confident step,
+Fuzz would lie still, with merely a roll of the eye to signify that he
+was on guard.
+
+Saturday, May 25th, our caravan of riders, pack animals, and a waggon
+moved slowly toward Eight-Mile Spring, the first stop in prospect. I
+rode a brisk little horse which had received the lofty name of Aaron.
+When we reached Eight-Mile Spring about noon there was barely enough
+water for our animals and for cooking dinner, which compelled our going
+elsewhere to put on the finishing touches to our outfit before cutting
+loose from the settlements, and Prof. directed the caravan to continue
+to Johnson, farther east and up one of the canyons of the Vermilion
+Cliffs. He returned to Kanab to make some final arrangements there,
+while we kept on to Johnson, passing the little settlement of two or
+three houses, and making a camp two miles above, where the canyon bottom
+was wide and level. Here we went over everything to be sure that all was
+in good order and nothing left behind. The animals were reshod where
+necessary, which operation kept Andy and Dodds busy all of Sunday, the
+26th. By thus making a start and proceeding a few miles all defects and
+neglects become apparent before it is too late to remedy them. On Monday
+Jack went back to Kanab with the waggon, returning toward night with
+George Adair. Fennemore had started with them, but he had turned back
+after something forgotten, and they did not know whether or not he had
+come on. In the morning George went off to look for him, and met him
+down at the settlement. He had followed on the day before, but instead
+of turning up the Johnson road, according to instructions, he had gone
+ahead on the road towards the Paria settlement. Finally concluding that
+he was wrong he had tried to correct his mistake by moonlight, but after
+a while gave it up, tied his mule, unsaddled, to a cedar, and claimed
+the protection of another for himself. During the night the mule chewed
+the bridle in two and departed for Kanab, leaving Fennemore, when
+daylight came, to walk some eight miles under a hot sun without water or
+breakfast to Johnson. He was considerably used up by this episode, and
+put in the remainder of the day in recuperating. The evenings were
+wonderfully beautiful, and looking from a height the scene was
+exceptionally picturesque, with the red rocks, the warm sky, the camp
+equipage, and the air so still that the smoke of the camp-fires rose
+slender and unbroken till lost in the zenith.
+
+Early Wednesday morning Prof. rode up on his powerful buckskin-coloured
+horse, and with Johnson and me went over to our Point B some miles away
+for some bearings, while Fennemore rode in search of his abandoned
+saddle. By night there was nothing to interfere with our making the
+final start, which we did May 30th, proceeding up the canyon without
+Mormon, one of our strongest horses, which by an accident had been
+injured so badly that he had to be left behind at Johnson. He was a
+fractious, unruly beast, but with so great vitality that we were sorry
+not to have his services. He died a week or two later. Towards night we
+passed another very small settlement called Clarkston, and camped near
+it, the last houses we would see for some time. Several Pai Utes hung
+around, and Prof. engaged one called Tom to accompany us as interpreter
+and, so far as he might know the country, as guide.
+
+The next day, after sixteen miles north-easterly up canyons, we entered
+about three o'clock an exceedingly beautiful little valley, with a fine
+spring and a small lake or pond at the lower end. George Adair instantly
+declared that he meant to come back here to live, and after dinner when
+we reconnoitred the place he staked out his claim. All the next morning,
+June 1st, our way led over rolling meadows covered with fine grass, but
+about noon this ended and we entered the broken country of the upper
+Paria, with gullies and gulches barren and dry the rest of the day,
+except two, in which we crossed small branches of the Paria. In one of
+the dry gulches we passed a grave, marked by a sandstone slab with E. A.
+cut on it, which the wolves had dug out, leaving the human bones
+scattered all around. We could not stop to reinter them. They were the
+remains of Elijah Averett, a young Mormon, who was killed while pursuing
+Pai Utes in 1866. Just before sunset we arrived at the banks of the
+Paria, where we made camp, with plenty of wood, water, and grass.
+Captain Dodds during the afternoon recognised a place he had been in
+when hunting a way the autumn before, and we followed his old trail for
+a time. Leaving the Paria the following day where it branches, we
+followed the east fork to its head, twelve miles, climbing rapidly
+through a narrow valley. We could plainly see on the left a high, flat,
+cliff-bounded summit, which was called Table Mountain, and early in the
+afternoon we reached a series of "hog-backs," and up one of which the
+old Indian trail we were now following took its precarious way. The
+hog-backs were narrow ridges of half-disintegrated clay-shale, with
+sides like the roof of a house, the trail following the sharp
+summit-line. Before we had fairly begun this very steep, slippery, and
+narrow climb, the thunder boomed and the heavens threw down upon us
+fierce torrents of rain, soaking everything and chilling us through and
+through, while making the trail like wet soap. Part way up, at one of
+the worst places, a pack came loose, and, slipping back, hung on the
+rump of the horse. There was no room for bucking it off, and there was
+no trouble so far as the beast of burden was concerned, for he realised
+fully his own danger. Two of us managed to climb along past the other
+animals to where he meekly stood waiting on the narrow ridge, with a
+descent on each side of eight hundred or nine hundred feet, and set
+things in order once more, when the cavalcade continued the ascent, the
+total amount of which was some twelve hundred feet.
+
+Arriving at the top we found ourselves almost immediately on the edge of
+a delightful little valley, mossy and green with a fresh June dress,
+down which we proceeded two or three miles to a spring where Dodds and
+Jacob had made a cache of some flour the year before. The flour had
+disappeared. We made a camp and dried out our clothes, blankets, etc.,
+by means of large fires. Though it was summer the air was decidedly
+chilly, for we were at an altitude of nearly 6000 feet. Our interpreter
+that was to be did not enjoy the situation and I think he dreaded
+meeting with the stranger Indians we might encounter. He declared he was
+"heap sick," and begged to be allowed to return, so Prof. gave him
+several days' rations and we saw him no more. There was a pretty creek
+in this valley flowing eastward, which Dodds said was the head of the
+Dirty Devil, the same stream he had followed down the year before in the
+attempt to find a way to bring us rations. The weather was very bad but
+we kept on down Potato Valley as it had been named, crossing three or
+four swift tributaries. About four o'clock we stopped beside a raging
+torrent and went into camp to reconnoitre. There were signs of some one
+having been here about a month before, and as the animals were shod we
+judged it was some prospector. The next day was so wet and Prof. was
+feeling so sick that we kept our camp, having made tents out of paulins
+and pack-covers, which gave me a chance to plot up the trail from Kanab
+to this point, one hundred and three miles. Instead of crossing the
+torrent the following day, June 5th, we went over the chief stream
+before the union and travelled down the right-hand side till we arrived
+within half a mile of the place where the river canyoned and received a
+tributary from the left. It cut into the rocks very abruptly and being
+high we could not enter the canyon as Dodds had done. While the party
+camped here, Prof. and Dodds rode away to the south on a dim trail to
+find out what move to make; how far we might be able to go down the
+Dirty Devil the next day. When they got back they reported finding a
+canyon twelve miles farther on, with many water-pockets, and concluded
+to go there. We arrived about noon Thursday, June 6th, making camp.
+Prof. and Dodds then climbed to where they could get a wide view, and
+Dodds pointed out the locality he had before reached when he thought
+himself so near the mouth of the Dirty Devil. No sooner had he done so
+than Prof. perceived at once that we were not on the river we thought we
+were on, for by this explanation he saw that the stream we were trying
+to descend flowed into the Colorado far to the south-west of the Unknown
+Mountains, whereas he knew positively that the Dirty Devil came in on
+the north-east. Then the question was, "What river is this?" for we had
+not noted a tributary of any size between the Dirty Devil and the San
+Juan. It was a new river whose identity had not been fathomed. This
+discovery put a different complexion on everything. The problem was more
+complicated than Dodds had imagined when he was trying to reach the
+mouth the year before.
+
+Prof. declared it was impossible to proceed farther in this direction
+towards our goal. The canyon of the river was narrow, and with the
+stream swimming high it was out of the question as a path for us now,
+and even had we been able to go down far enough to get out on the other
+side, the region intervening between it and the distant mountains was a
+heterogeneous conglomeration of unknown mesas and canyons that appeared
+impassable. He concluded the only thing to do was to go north to the
+summit of the Wasatch cliffs and keep along the high land north-east to
+an angle where these slopes vanished to the north. From that point we
+might be able to cross to the Dirty Devil or Unknown Mountains. Once at
+these mountains we felt certain of finding a way to our former
+camp-ground at the mouth of the Dirty Devil River. We retraced our path
+to the foot of Potato Valley, and there Jones, Clem, and George Adair
+were sent out to Kanab for additional rations, it being plain that we
+were in for a longer effort than had been contemplated. They were to be
+here again in twelve days to meet Prof. with his party, on the return
+from starting down the _Canonita_ with a crew selected from the seven
+remaining men. This seven, which included Prof., were now to strike up a
+branch creek and reach the upper slopes of what he later called the
+Aquarius Plateau, and along its verdant slopes continue our effort to
+reach the Unknown Mountains. The two parties separated on Saturday, June
+8th, our contingent travelling about eighteen miles nearly due north,
+till just at sunset we entered a high valley in which flowed two
+splendid creeks. There we camped with an abundance of everything needed
+to make a comfortable rest for man and beast. In such travel as this the
+beast is almost the first consideration, for without him movement is
+slow and difficult and distance limited. We had gone up in altitude a
+great deal, 1800 or 2000 feet, and the next day, which was Sunday, we
+continued this upward course, seeing signs of deer and elk with an
+occasional sight of a fat "pine hen" winging its heavy flight from tree
+to tree. The pines were very tall and thick, interspersed with fir and
+balsam as well as with the usual accompaniment of high altitude in the
+West, the aspen. Our aneroids indicated 10,000 feet above sea-level, and
+we could look down upon the vast canyoned desert to the south as on a
+map. Descending into a deep canyon where a clear torrent was foaming
+down at the rate of five hundred feet to the mile, we went up a branch
+and finally passing over a sudden crest discovered before us a very
+beautiful lake of an extent of some two hundred acres. It was now late,
+and though we had come only ten miles we went into camp for the night.
+There were several smaller lagoons nearby and we named the group the
+Aspen Lakes. Around them in the dense groves huge snowbanks still
+lingered from the heart of winter. A prettier mountain region than this
+could not be imagined, while the magnificent outlook to the south and
+east across the broken country was a bewildering sight, especially as
+the night enveloped it, deepening the mystery of its entangled gorges
+and cliffs. From every point we could see the Navajo Mountain and at
+least we knew what there was at the foot of its majestic northern slope.
+I climbed far above camp and crossing over a promontory looked down upon
+the nebulous region to the eastward that we were to fathom, and it
+seemed to me one of the most interesting sights I had ever beheld. The
+night was so cold that ice formed in our kettles, for our altitude in
+feet above sea was in the ten thousand still.
+
+[Illustration: Navajo Mountain from near Kaiparowits Peak.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.]
+
+All the next morning, Monday, June 10th, we rode through a delightful
+region of rolling meadows, beautiful groves of pines and aspens, and
+cool, clear creeks. Near noon we descended into a fertile valley where
+we crossed two superb torrential streams and camped at the second under
+a giant pine. Fennemore felt very sick, which prevented further progress
+this day, and we put in the afternoon exploring as far as we could the
+neighbourhood. More lakes were found and as they were in a cup-like
+depression we called them the "Hidden Lakes." Jack made some fine
+negatives of several of these pretty bodies of water, two of which I
+have added to the illustrations of this volume. Not far from our camp
+two more splendid creeks came together to form one, which Dodds said he
+thought was that named by them Big Boulder, where it joined the main
+stream down below. The next morning, Tuesday, we began our day's work by
+soon crossing Cataract and Cascade creeks before they united to form the
+Big Boulder, rushing down with an impetuosity that was forbidding. The
+two forming creeks were much alike, but we could see back in the
+distance a beautiful cascade of fully 1000 feet in which the second
+stream originated, and we distinguished it by that name. All day we
+travelled over a rancher's paradise, meeting no Indians and seeing no
+recent signs of any except in some filmy smoke mounting mysteriously
+from canyons in the tangled sandstone labyrinth below. Who were they,
+how many, and what might be their temper? were questions that came to us
+as we reflected on the presence there of unknown human beings, and
+furthermore would we meet them, and if so when? As on the preceding day
+we crossed many fine brooks which in the dry season probably would not
+make so vigorous a showing. Late in the afternoon, having travelled
+fifteen miles, we reached the point where the end of the Wasatch or
+Aquarius Plateau, the high slope of which we were using as a bridge from
+Potato Valley to the Unknown Mountains, broke back to the north, cutting
+us off once more from our objective, for a wide stretch, twenty-five
+miles in an airline, of ragged desert apparently impassable still
+intervened. We camped there at a convenient little spring. In the
+morning I was sent with Johnson for my companion in one direction down
+the mountain to look for some old trail, while Prof. with Dodds went in
+another. Scarcely had I gone half a mile when I found tolerably fresh
+Indian sign, and a mile or two farther on we struck a recently travelled
+trail. The horses that had gone over it were unshod and there were
+moccasin tracks indicating Indians without a doubt, but what kind of
+course the track did not reveal. The trail led towards the Dirty Devil
+Mountains, and we followed it three or four miles to ascertain with
+certainty its general course. There was a possibility of our stumbling
+upon the Indians in camp at some bend, and as this was not desirable for
+only two of us we turned back as soon as we felt sure of the direction.
+Prof. had seen no trail at all, and he said we would take the one I had
+found and follow it. That night was disagreeable and rainy with
+numberless mosquitoes, but worst of all one of our new men always snored
+till the ground shook, and owing to the rain we could not get away from
+him, for we had to remain in the improvised tent to keep dry.
+
+The morning light never was more welcome and we were all up early. The
+day was fair. We were soon off and made our way down from the grassy
+heights to the trail, tracing its wearisome twists and turns, sometimes
+thinking it was not going our way at all when the next turn would be
+exactly right. In general its course was about east. The land was
+desolate and dry, and exactly as the region appeared from above, a
+complete labyrinth of variously coloured cliffs and canyons. Besides
+being very crooked on account of the nature of the topography, the trail
+at times was indistinct because of the barren rocks, smooth as a floor,
+with nothing to take an imprint. In these places we were obliged to make
+the best guess we could. We came to a place where a valley lay about
+1800 feet below us, with the descent to it over bare, smooth, white
+sandstone almost as steep as a horse could stand on. We travelled a mile
+and a half over this and then found ourselves in a better looking region
+where, after a few miles, we discovered a beautiful creek flowing
+rapidly. There was plenty of good grass and we made our camp beneath
+some cottonwood trees, having accomplished twenty miles the way we came.
+Smoke of an Indian fire was rolling up about three miles below us, but
+we paid little attention to it. Every man delayed putting down his
+blankets till the champion snorer had selected the site of his bed, and
+then we all got as far away as the locality would permit. Having slept
+little the night before, we hardly stirred till morning, and in
+gratitude we called the stream Pleasant Creek without an attempt at
+originality.
+
+It was Friday, May 14th, and our long cavalcade proceeded in the usual
+single file down along the creek in the direction of the Indian smoke.
+Scarcely had we gone three miles when suddenly we heard a yell and the
+bark of a dog. Then we discovered two squaws on the other side who had
+been gathering seeds, and who were now giving the alarm, for we were
+close upon an Indian camp set on the edge of a low hill on the opposite
+side of the creek. Our outfit presented rather a formidable appearance,
+especially as we were an unexpected apparition, and we could see them
+all running to hide, though I thought for a moment we might have a
+battle. Without a halt, Prof. led the way across the creek to the foot
+of the hill, and as we reached the place one poor old man left as a
+sacrifice came tottering down, so overcome by fear that he could barely
+articulate, "Hah-ro-ro-roo, towich-a-tick-a-boo," meaning very friendly
+he was, and extending his trembling hand. Doubtless he expected to be
+shot on the instant. With a laugh we each shook his hand in turn saying
+"towich-a-tick-a-boo, old man," and rode up the hill into the camp,
+where we found all the wickiups with everything lying about just as they
+had been using it at the moment of receiving the alarm. We dismounted
+and inducing the terrified old man to sit down in one of the wickiups,
+Prof. sat with him and we rolled cigarettes, giving him one, and when
+all were smoking, except Prof. who never used tobacco, we urged him in
+English and Pai Ute and by signs to call the others back. I walked a few
+yards out on the hill and just then, with a rush and a clatter of
+language I could not understand, except "Impoo immy pshakai?" (What do
+you want?) the two squaws who had been up the creek arrived. The
+foremost one, frothing at the mouth with excitement and effort, dashed
+at me with an uplifted butcher knife as if she would enjoy sending it
+into me, but I laughed at her and she halted immediately in front of me.
+She broke into a maniacal laugh then and shouted something to the hidden
+refugees. We persuaded the old man also to call them, and he stepped out
+from the cedars which grew on the point and spoke a loud sentence. At
+last they began to appear silently and one by one. There were eight of
+the men, all well dressed in buckskin, and a number of women and
+children. When they became confident that we really meant to be friendly
+they relaxed their vigilance. With the hope of securing a guide and also
+to study them a little we went into camp in the creek bottom under the
+hill where they came to visit us. Their language and appearance showed
+them to be Utes.
+
+When Prof. got back to Kanab he heard that a party of Red Lake Utes had
+killed a white boy near the Sevier settlements, and he concluded this
+band must have been the one. They probably thought we were pursuing them
+into their secret lair to punish them. Their great anxiety to trade for
+powder indicated their lack of that article and partly explained the
+precipitousness of their retreat. They had numbers of well dressed
+buckskins and a very small amount of powder would buy one, but as we had
+only metallic cartridges we could do little in the line of exchange. To
+satisfy one of them that we had no loose powder I removed the spring
+from the magazine of my Winchester and poured the sixteen cartridges
+out. He had never seen such a gun before and was greatly astonished,
+though he hardly understood how it worked. Prof. tried his best to
+persuade one to go with us as a guide, for the labyrinth ahead was a
+puzzle, but whether through fear or disinclination to leave friends not
+one would go. The chief gave us a minute description of the trail to the
+Unknown or Dirty Devil Mountains as well as he could by signs and words,
+some of which we could not understand, and long afterwards we learned
+that his information was exactly correct, though at the time through
+misunderstanding we were not able to follow it. They also told us there
+was a trail to the big river beyond the mountains.
+
+There was a little canyon in the creek nearby and the water rushed down
+over a bed of bare rock at an angle of about twenty degrees. We were
+surprised to discover hundreds of fish six to nine inches long wriggling
+up the stream along one edge where the water was very shallow. They
+formed a line from top to bottom.
+
+Unable to secure the guide, we left at six o'clock in the morning,
+Saturday, June 15th, with all our relations cordial, the Utes going away
+before we did, and struck out on the trail which led south-eastward from
+this camp. Travelling twelve miles, we passed through a narrow canyon
+into a larger one, believing that we were following the chief's
+direction. Recent heavy rains had washed out the trail, and not knowing
+its course it was impossible to keep even its general direction. Going
+up a left-hand branch of the canyon--that is, to the north--we found no
+exit, so we came down and followed a trail up the right-hand branch till
+it disappeared, then going back once more to the entrance we again went
+up the left-hand branch till we came to a vertical wall one thousand
+feet high, which turned us around. The right-hand one was entered
+another time, and towards its head where the cliffs could not be climbed
+we made camp, with an abundance of water which was so strongly alkaline
+we could not use it and had to keep the stock from it also. Our kegs
+were full and we did not suffer except by limitation. In the morning we
+continued up the same canyon till it ended in vertical cliffs, beneath
+which there was a large pool of pure cool water, with ferns clinging
+above it to the rocks and rank vegetation all around. This was an
+immense relief, and we found it hard to turn our backs on so attractive
+a spot and go down the gorge once more to a point not far below our last
+camp. Here the walls were about a thousand feet and very precipitous,
+though somewhat broken. Prof., Jack, Dodds, and I climbed out on the
+north and hunted for water in different directions on the top. I kept on
+and on down a dry wash, persisting against the objection of Dodds, who
+thought it useless, and was at last rewarded by discovering a pocket
+among the rocks containing several barrels of water, with another that
+was larger a short distance below in a crevice on a rock-shelf at the
+brink of a canyon.
+
+We returned to camp with this news, where Prof. and Jack soon joined us.
+They had found no pockets, but had seen the divide between the waters of
+the Colorado and the Dirty Devil, which we could follow to the mountains
+if we could scale the cliffs. Prof. had selected a point where he
+thought we could mount. With a liberal use of axe, shovel, and pick we
+succeeded in gaining the summit in an hour and a half. With all the
+cliff-climbing we had done with horses this seemed to me our paramount
+achievement. The day was ending by this time, and I led the way with
+some trepidation towards the pocket I had found, for in my haste to get
+back I had not carefully noted the topography. The cedars and pinons all
+looked alike in the twilight shades, and as I went on and on the men
+behind began to lose faith and made joking remarks about my mental
+status. I felt certain I was right, yet the distance seemed so much
+greater in the dusk than when I had traversed it on foot that I was a
+little disturbed. By the time we at last got to the pocket darkness was
+upon us, though nobody cared for anything but water, and there it was
+fresh and pure. The animals and ourselves (Andy filling the kettles
+first) consumed the entire amount, but it gave each a full drink, and we
+held the second pool in reserve.
+
+[Illustration: Tantalus Creek.
+
+Tributary of Fremont River.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers.]
+
+[Illustration: D. Preliminary map of a portion of the northern part of
+the unknown country indicated by the blank space on Map A at page 95,
+showing the course of part of Glen Canyon, the mouth of the Fremont
+(Dirty Devil) River, the Henry (Unknown) Mountains, and the trail of the
+first known party of white men to cross this area. The Escalante River,
+which was mistaken for the Dirty Devil, enters the Colorado just above
+the first letter "o" of Colorado at the bottom of the map. The Dirty
+Devil enters from the north at the upper right-hand side.]
+
+When morning came we engineered a way for the animals down to the shelf
+where the other pocket was, twenty or thirty feet below, by pulling
+rocks away in places and piling them up in others. The shelf was perhaps
+fifty or sixty feet wide, with a sheer plunge of one thousand feet at
+the outer end into the first canyon we had followed. The animals could
+not get to the water, but we dipped it out for them in the camp kettles.
+The way up from the shelf was so very steep that at one point two of us
+had to put our shoulders to the haunches of some of the horses to
+"boost" them, while other men pulled on a strong halter from above, and
+in this way we soon had them all watered and ready for pack and saddle.
+Keeping along the divide we had comparatively easy going, with the
+Unknown Mountains ever looming nearer, till their blue mystery vanished
+and we could discern ordinary rocks and trees composing their slopes.
+About noon we arrived at the edge of an intervening valley, with the
+wind blowing so fierce a gale that we could barely see. Crossing this
+depression we reached a small creek at the foot of the second mountain
+from the north (now Mt. Pennell), and climbed its slope seventeen
+hundred feet to a beautiful spring, where we camped, with plenty of fine
+grass for the famished horses. We had at last traversed the unknown to
+the unknown, and felt well satisfied with our success. If it had ever
+been done before by white men there was no knowledge of it.
+
+The temperature was so low that water froze in the camp kettles, and
+next morning, June 18th, the thermometer stood at 28 deg. F., with the water
+of the little brook running from the spring at 37 deg. F. After breakfast
+Prof., Jack, and Dodds climbed the mountain on which we were camped,
+running their aneroid out, while with Johnson I went down the slope
+north, crossed the pass, and climbed the first mountain (now Mt. Ellen,
+after Mrs. Thompson). A severe snow-storm set in, and when we had
+finally attained a point where our aneroid indicated 11,200 feet above
+sea-level, we were obliged to turn back because of the lateness of the
+hour and having no coats, no food, or water. When we reached camp on the
+other mountain night had come. Andy had been trying to cook some beans,
+but the high altitude prevented the water from getting hot enough and
+the operation was incomplete.[30] I foolishly ate some of the beans,
+being very hungry, with the result that I was sick for the first time on
+the expedition, suffering a horrible stomach-ache. Though not disabled I
+was extremely uncomfortable. In the morning we started to go around
+north through the pass to the east side of the mountain, and I ran in
+the trail as usual, mounting and dismounting many times, till I was
+extremely glad after eight miles when we came to the head of a little
+creek and stopped to enable Prof. to climb the third peak (Mt. Hillers)
+for observations. While he was gone I was content to lie still in the
+shade of a bush, and finally lost my pain in sleep. Prof. got back so
+late that we camped where we were, much to my satisfaction. The view
+from our camp was extensive and magnificent, the whole Dirty Devil
+region lying open, like a book, below us.
+
+We were striking for the creek up which Prof. and Cap. had come the year
+before from the river, for we knew that from its mouth we could easily
+get to where our _Canonita_ was cached. The next day, June 20th, we
+continued down Trachyte Creek, as Prof. called it, till four o'clock,
+passing many old camps and grazing grounds, when we halted for Prof. to
+climb to a height. The outlook there showed him that this was not the
+stream whose canyon below we wanted to descend to the river, so the
+following morning he took Dodds and reconnoitred, the latter after a
+while returning with orders for us to come on eastward to another
+canyon. We left Trachyte Creek and reached Prof. at two o'clock. He had
+prospected a trail, or rather a way, to descend into the canyon over the
+smooth bare sandstone across which we wound back and forth for a mile,
+constantly going down into the strange, weird depths till at last we
+reached the creek bed, where a short distance below we went into camp in
+a beautiful green cottonwood grove, with enormous pockets of good water
+close by. By seven o'clock in the morning of the 22d we were going on
+down the deep, narrow canyon, and arrived at the Colorado at half-past
+ten. The river was at least fifteen feet higher than last year, and
+rushed by with a majestic power that was impressive. Our first unusual
+incident was when Prof.'s horse, in trying to drink from a soft bank,
+dropped down into the swift current and gave us half an hour's difficult
+work to get him out. When we had eaten dinner we all went up to the
+mouth of the Dirty Devil, where we had stored the _Canonita_, and
+rejoiced to find her lying just as we left her, except that the water
+had risen to that level and washed away one of the oars. We caulked the
+boat temporarily, launched her once more on the sweeping tide, and in
+two minutes were at our camp, where we hauled her out for the repairs
+necessary to make her sound for the run to the Paria.
+
+Sunday was the next day, June 23d, and while the others rested I plotted
+in the trail by which we had crossed to this place so that Prof. could
+take it out with him, as he decided that Jack, Johnson, Fennemore, and I
+were to take the boat down, while he, Andy, and Dodds would go back
+overland to meet Jones and George Adair at the foot of Potato Valley. At
+five o'clock they left us, going up the same canyon we had come down and
+which we called Lost Creek Canyon, now Crescent Creek. The next day we
+recaulked and painted the boat, and I put the name _Canonita_ in red
+letters on the stern and a red star on each side of the bow. By
+Wednesday the 26th she was all ready and we put her in the water and ran
+down four miles to the large Shinumo house. Jack rowed the stern oars,
+Johnson the bow, I steered, while Fennemore sat on the middle deck. The
+high water completely obliterated the aggravating shoals which had
+bothered us the year before, and we had no work at all except to steer
+or to land, the current carrying us along at a good pace. We stopped
+occasionally for pictures and notes and got about everything that Jack
+and Fennemore wanted in the line of photographs. The Fourth of July we
+celebrated by firing fourteen rounds, and I made a lemon cake and a
+peach-pie for dinner. On Sunday the 8th we passed the mouth of the
+stream that had been mistaken for the Dirty Devil, and which Prof. had
+named Escalante River. It was narrow and shallow and would not be taken
+at its mouth for so important a tributary. The next day we passed the
+San Juan which was running a very large stream, and camped at the Music
+Temple, where I cut Jack's name and mine under those of the Howlands and
+Dunn. The rapid below was dashing but easy and we ran it without
+stopping to examine. On Friday the 12th we came to El Vado and dug up a
+cache we had made there the year before. Our rations for some time were
+nothing but bread and coffee, and we were glad to see the Echo Peaks and
+then run in at the mouth of the Paria on Saturday, July 13th, with the
+expectation of finding men and supplies. The _Dean_ was lying high and
+dry on the bank and we wondered who had taken her from her
+hiding-place. Firing our signal shots and receiving no answer, Jack and
+I went up the Paria, crossing it on a log, and saw a cabin and a farm on
+the west side. This we knew must be Lee's. He was ploughing in a field,
+and when he first sighted us he seemed a little startled, doubtless
+thinking we might be officers to arrest him. One of his wives, Rachel,
+went into the cabin not far off and peered out at us. She was a fine
+shot as I afterwards learned. Lee received us pleasantly and invited us
+to take our meals at his house till our party came. As we had nothing
+but bread and coffee and not much of these we accepted. The fresh
+vegetables out of the garden, which his other wife, Mrs. Lee
+XVIII., served nicely cooked, seemed the most delicious food
+that could be prepared. Mrs. Lee XVIII. was a stout, comely
+young woman of about twenty-five, with two small children, and seemed to
+be entirely happy in the situation. The other wife, whose number I did
+not learn, left before dark for a house they had at Jacob's Pool and I
+never saw her again.
+
+[Illustration: Example of Lakes on the Aquarius Plateau.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers.]
+
+Lee had worked hard since his arrival early in the year and now had his
+farm in fairly good order with crops growing, well irrigated by the
+water he took out of the Paria. He called the place Lonely Dell, and it
+was not a misnomer. Johnson made arrangements to go to Kanab the next
+day, as he concluded that his health would not permit him to go through
+the Grand Canyon with us, so this was our last night with him. Lee gave
+me his own version of the Mountain Meadows Massacre claiming that he
+really had nothing to do with it and had tried to stop it, and when he
+could not do so he went to his house and cried. The Pai Utes ever after
+called him Naguts or Crybaby.[31]
+
+In the morning, Sunday, July 14th, Johnson departed with Lee and we
+expected someone to arrive to bring us news of the Major and Prof., but
+the sun went down once more without any message. We felt sure that Prof.
+got out of the Dirty Devil country without accident, but we wanted some
+definite information of it and we also desired to know when we would
+resume the canyon voyage. On Monday having nothing else to do we took
+some hoes and worked in Lee's garden till near noon, when we heard yells
+which proved to come from Andy and Clem with a waggon needing some help
+over bad places. We soon had the waggon in a good spot under some
+willows and there speedily ransacked it for mail, spending the rest of
+the day reading letters and newspapers. Andy told us that Prof. had
+reached Kanab with no trouble of any kind. Mrs. Lee XVIII., or
+Sister Emma, as she would in Utah properly be called, invited us to
+dinner and supper, and the next day we worked in the garden again,
+repaired the irrigating ditch, and helped about the place in a general
+way, glad enough to have some occupation even though the sun was burning
+hot and the thermometer stood at 110 deg. in the shade. Almost every day we
+did some work in the garden and we also repaired the irrigating dam.
+
+Our camp was across the Paria down by the Colorado, and when Brother Lee
+came back the following Sunday he called to give us a lengthy
+dissertation on the faith of the Latter-Day Saints (Mormons), while
+Andy, always up to mischief, in his quiet way, delighted to get behind
+him and cock a rifle. At the sound of the ominous click Lee would wheel
+like a flash to see what was up. We had no intention of capturing him,
+of course, but it amused Andy to act in a way that kept Lee on the _qui
+vive_. We got the _Nell_ out of her shed and found her in very bad
+condition, while the _Dean_ was about as we had left her. Andy and Jack
+went to work on the _Dean_ and in a few days had her in excellent trim.
+On July 24th, which is the day the Mormons celebrate for the settlement
+of Salt Lake Valley, Lee invited us to dinner and supper, which gave us
+a very pleasant time. So far as our intercourse with Lee was concerned
+we had no cause for complaint. He was genial, courteous, and generous.
+
+A copy of DeForrest's _Overland_ was in camp and I whiled away some
+hours reading it, but time began to hang heavily upon us and we daily
+longed for the appearance of the rest of the party so that we might push
+out on the great red flood that moved irresistibly down into the maw of
+Marble Canyon, and end the uncertainty that lay before us. August the
+first came and still no message. Fennemore now felt so sick that Jack
+took him to Lee's with rations in order that he might have vegetables
+with his meals with the hope that he would recover, but he grew worse,
+and on August 4th he decided that he would return to his home in Salt
+Lake. We concluded that one of us must go to Kanab to inform Prof. of
+the state of affairs, and Clem in his big-hearted way offered to do
+this, but we knew that his sense of locality was defective and that he
+might get lost. Consequently we played on him an innocent trick which I
+may now tell as he long ago went "across the range." I planned with Andy
+that we three were to draw cuts for the honour of the ride and that Andy
+was to let me draw the fatal one. Clem was greatly disappointed. Jack
+went on a chase after Nig and ran him down about sunset, for Nig was the
+most diplomatic mule that ever lived. Having no saddle I borrowed one
+from Lee who let me have it dubiously as he feared we might be laying
+some trap. I gave him my word that while I had his saddle no man of ours
+would molest him, and furthermore that they would befriend him. I rode
+away while he remarked that in the rocks he could defy an army, with
+regret still in his eyes, though he accepted my pledge. I got out a few
+miles before dark and slept by the roadside, with the distant murmur of
+rapids speaking to me of the turmoil we were soon to pass through. By
+noon of the next day I was at Jacob's Pool, by half-past three at House
+Rock Spring, and at night in Summit Valley where I camped. The day was
+so hot that I could hardly bear my hand on my rifle barrel as it lay
+across my saddle. My lunch of jerked beef and bread I ate as I rode
+along thus losing no time.
+
+The trail across the Kaibab was not often travelled, and it was dim and
+hard to follow, a faint horse track showing here and there, so I lost it
+several times but quickly picked it up again, and finally came out of
+the forest where I could see all the now familiar country to the west
+and north. About two o'clock I arrived at Kanab and rode to Jacob's
+house where Sister Louisa told me that the Major, Prof., Mrs. Thompson,
+Professor De Motte, and George Adair had left that very morning for the
+south end of the Kaibab on the way to the Paria, and that Jones and
+Lyman Hamblin the day before had started for the Paria with a waggon
+load of supplies drawn by a team of four broncho mules. Nig being very
+tired I thought I would rest till morning, when he rewarded my
+consideration by eluding me till ten o'clock. This gave me so late a
+start that it was dark and rainy when I descended the east side of the
+Kaibab, and I had to drag Nig down the 2000 feet in the gloom over
+boulders, bushes, ledges, or anything else that came, for I could see
+only a few feet and could not keep the trail. I reached House Rock
+Spring at last and camped there. In the morning I discovered Jones and
+Lyman down in the valley and joined them for breakfast, after which I
+helped them start. This was no easy matter, for the four mules they had
+in harness, with one exception, were as wild as mountain sheep, having
+only recently been broken. Jones had been badly kicked three times, his
+hands were burned by the ropes, and there was a lively time whenever the
+excited animals were put to the waggon. The road was new, only a waggon
+track in reality, and the mules became more and more docile through
+exhaustion as the day went on. At night they were far safer to handle
+than in the morning.
+
+July 9th about dark we arrived at Lonely Dell, Lee stealing suspiciously
+in behind where I was walking, to ask me who the men were and what they
+wanted. We had a joyful time, especially as Steward had sent out a large
+box of fine candy which we found in the mail and opened at once. Four
+days later the Major and his party came from the Kaibab and we had
+venison for supper. The Major said we would go on down the Colorado as
+soon as possible though the water was still very high.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon
+
+Near mouth of Shinumo Creek
+
+The river is in flood and the water is "colorado." Sketch made in colour
+on the spot by F. S. Dellenbaugh. July 26, 1907.]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 30: We had not yet learned to put a tight cover on the bean
+pot, and then by means of a big stone on the cover and a hot fire create
+an artificial atmosphere within it, thus raising the temperature.]
+
+[Footnote 31: Lee was executed for the crime five years later, 1877.
+Others implicated were not punished, the execution of Lee "closing the
+incident."]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+     A Company of Seven.--The _Nellie Powell_ Abandoned.--Into
+     Marble Canyon.--Vasey's Paradise.--A Furious Descent to the
+     Little Colorado.--A Mighty Fall in the Dismal Granite
+     Gorge.--Caught in a Trap.--Upside Down.--A Deep Plunge and a
+     Predicament.--At the Mouth of the Kanab.
+
+
+We now missed Steward, Cap, and Beaman more than ever, for we had been
+unable to get anyone to take their places. The fact was our prospective
+voyage through Marble and Grand canyons was considered almost a forlorn
+hope and nobody cared to take the risk. The plan had been to give me the
+steering of the _Canonita_, but now with three boats and only seven to
+man them it was plain that one must be abandoned. An examination of them
+all showed that the _Nellie Powell_ was in the poorest condition and she
+was chosen for the sacrifice. She was put back in her shelter being
+afterwards used by Lee for a desultory ferry business, that developed.
+About ten days before our arrival, the _Dean_ had been discovered by a
+newspaper man named J. H. Beadle, and used to cross to the north side
+where he left her. This was how she happened to be there when we came.
+Beadle had denounced Lee and the Mormons in print and tried to conceal
+his identity by assuming the name of Hanson, a plan frustrated by his
+having some clothes, marked with his own name, laundered by Sister
+Emma. Lee was only amused by the incident. The _Dean_ was to be manned
+by the same crew as before; Jones to steer, Jack at the after oars, I at
+the forward pair, and the Major in his usual place on the middle deck.
+The _Canonita_ was to have Prof. as steersman, Andy at the stroke oars,
+and Clem in the bow, Clem having gotten all over his inclination to
+leave and being determined now to see the end of the voyage before he
+departed.
+
+The same day that the Major and his party arrived, Jack and I, with
+Jones steering, tried the _Dean_ by taking Mrs. Thompson, Professor
+DeMotte, and Lyman Hamblin up the river so that they might see what a
+canyon was like from a boat. Mrs. Thompson was so enthusiastic that she
+declared she wanted to accompany us. Prof. took her as passenger on the
+_Canonita_ about half-past four on Wednesday, August 14th, when we had
+completed the sacking and packing of provisions, and with both boats ran
+down through a small rapid or two about a mile and a half, where we
+camped at the mouth of a little canyon down which the waggon-road came.
+Mrs. Thompson enjoyed the exhilaration of descending the swift rushing
+water and still thought it attractive. I went to Lee's and brought down
+the Major's arm-chair for our boat, and saw Fennemore who was very sick.
+We made our final preparations at this point, and I spent most of
+Thursday morning helping the Major get his papers in order so that if we
+did not appear again his affairs could be readily settled. This required
+considerable writing, which I did, for the Major wrote slowly with his
+left hand, the only one he had. We dined with Lee, having the first
+watermelon of the season for dessert. Lee was most cordial and we could
+not have asked better treatment than he gave us the whole time we were
+at Lonely Dell. In the afternoon our land outfit left for Kanab and we
+said a last good-bye to the men, who looked as if they never expected to
+see us again. Only the "Tirtaan Aigles" remained, and there were but
+seven of these now. The next day we put the finishing touches on the
+boats, and while we were doing this our late fellow voyageur Beaman, and
+a companion named Carleton, passed on their way to the Moki Towns where
+Beaman wanted to make photographs. All being ready the next day,
+Saturday, August 17th, we pushed out on the mighty Colorado about nine
+o'clock and by noon ran into Marble Canyon, nearly five miles, passing
+one small rapid and another of considerable size on a river about one
+hundred feet wide and extremely swift, with straight walls rapidly
+increasing from the fifty feet or so at the Paria. Marble Canyon while
+differing in name is but the upper continuation of the Grand Canyon,
+there being no line of demarkation other than a change in geological
+structure and the entrance of the canyon of the Little Colorado. The
+combined length of the two divisions is 283 miles and the declivity is
+very great. The altitude of the mouth of the Paria is 3170 feet, while
+the Grand Wash at the end of the Grand Canyon is 840 feet, leaving a
+descent of 2330 feet still before us.
+
+At our dinner camp, which was on a talus on the left, the walls were
+about 500 feet and quite precipitous, but I was able to climb out on the
+right to get a view of the surroundings. After dinner we went on in our
+usual order, our boat the _Dean_ in advance and the _Canonita_
+following. The photographing now devolved entirely on Jack and Clem;
+Andy as usual ran the culinary branch of the expedition, Jones and Prof.
+meandered the river. We had not gone far after dinner before we were
+close upon a bad-looking rapid, a drop of about eighteen feet in a
+distance of 225, which we concluded to defeat by means of a portage on
+the right-hand bank. As we knew exactly what to do no time was wasted
+and we were soon below, sweeping on with a stiff current which brought
+us, in about ten miles from our morning start and five from the noon
+halt, to a far worse rapid than the last, a fall of twenty-five feet in
+four or five hundred, with very straight walls six hundred feet high on
+both sides. The Major concluded to leave the passage of it till the next
+day, and we went into camp at the head. This was the rapid where
+disaster fell on the miners, ten in number, who in the spring had stolen
+a lot of our things at the Paria and started down prospecting on a raft.
+They saved their lives but not another thing, and after a great deal of
+hard work they succeeded by means of driftwood ladders in climbing to
+the top of the walls and made their way to the settlement. This is now
+called Soap Creek Rapid, being at the mouth of the canyon by which the
+little stream of that name reaches the river,--a little stream which at
+times is a mighty torrent. In a small rapid following or in the final
+portion of this, I believe, is the place where Frank M. Brown, leader of
+the Denver, Colorado Canyon, and Pacific Railway Survey, was drowned in
+1889.
+
+We began work on Sunday, August 18th, by making the portage and had no
+trouble of any kind, Jack and Clem making some photographs before we
+finally said good-bye to the place. Continuing on our way we found the
+river very narrow, not over seventy-five feet in many places and ranging
+from that to two hundred, with frequent whirlpools strong enough to
+swing our boats entirely around. Before dinner-time we had put five
+large rapids behind, and then we halted under a ledge on the left a
+short distance above a very ugly and difficult prospect. There was an
+exceedingly heavy descent and a soft sandstone being at the river margin
+it was worn away, giving little chance for a footing by which to make a
+portage. The Major and Prof. decided that we could run it safely, and
+after dinner we shot into it, both boats going through in fine style.
+Just below was another smaller one that was vanquished easily, and we
+went swiftly on down the swirling, booming current. Rain fell at
+intervals to continue our saturation, and with four more rapids, all of
+which we ran, one having quite a heavy fall, there was little chance for
+us to dry out. At one point we passed an enormous rock which had dropped
+from the cliffs overhead and almost blocked the whole river. Then we
+arrived at a huge rapid whose angry tones cried so distinctly, "No
+running through here," that we did not hesitate but began a let down
+forthwith, and when that was accomplished we camped at the foot of it
+for the night, having come eleven and three-eighths miles during the
+day. The rapid was extremely noisy and the roaring reverberated back and
+forth from cliff to cliff as it ascended to the top, 1800 feet, to
+escape into the larger air. The walls had two or three terraces and were
+not over three quarters of a mile apart at the summit, the cliff
+portions being nearly or quite perpendicular. The rocks, of all sizes,
+which were legion at each rapid, were frequently dovetailed into each
+other by the action of the current and so neatly joined in a serrated
+line that they were practically one.
+
+[Illustration: Thompson
+
+Marble Canyon.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.]
+
+The rapidity with which the water went down and the walls went up as we
+cut into the plateau gave a vivid impression of descending into the very
+bowels of the earth, and this impression seemed daily to intensify. On
+Monday, August 19th, the same conditions prevailed, the walls being of
+marble mostly vertical from the water's edge for about seven hundred
+feet, and then rising by four terraces to two thousand feet, all stained
+red by the disintegration of iron-stained rocks overhead though the
+marble is a grey colour. We only made four and one-quarter miles and
+established Camp 90 on the left, just below a big rapid and in sight of
+another, with a record for the whole day of four rapids run, three
+passed by let-downs, and one overcome by a portage. The next day we did
+not accomplish a much greater distance, only about nine miles, but we
+were highly successful in our encounters with the enemy, running no less
+than twelve big rapids and making a portage at another to round out the
+dozen on the baker's proverbial basis. The average width of the canyon
+at the top was about one and a quarter miles, while the breadth of the
+water itself plunging along the bottom was not more than 125 feet, and
+the total height of wall was 2500 feet. We had marble at the river
+margin most of the day, a greyish crystalline rock fluted
+multitudinously in places by the action of high water and sometimes
+polished like glass. While this was a grey rock the entire effect of the
+canyon, for the reason stated above, was red. On the right bank we made
+our camp on some sand at the mouth of a gulch, and immediately put on
+our dry clothes from the boats. Not far below on the same side was what
+appeared to be a vast ruined tower. Around the indentations which
+answered for crumbling windows bunches of mosses and ferns were draped,
+while from the side, about one hundred feet up from the river, clear
+springs broke forth to dash down amidst verdure in silvery skeins. The
+whole affair formed a striking and unusual picture, the only green that
+so far had been visible in the canyon landscape, for the walls from
+brink to river were absolutely barren of trees or any apparent
+vegetation. On the former trip the Major had named the place after a
+botanist friend of his, Vasey's (Vaysey) Paradise, and this was now
+recorded in our notes. All day long we had seen in the magnificent walls
+besides caverns and galleries resemblances to every form of
+architectural design, turrets, forts, balconies, castles, and a thousand
+strange and fantastic suggestions from the dark tower against which
+Childe Roland with his slug-horn blew defiance, to the airy structures
+evolved by the wonderful lamp of Aladdin.
+
+Starting down again on Wednesday morning we ran past the Paradise and
+heard a little bird singing there amidst the spray and mosses, a
+delicate note seeming out of place amidst such gigantic desolation. Only
+the boom of great cannon or the tone of some enormous organ pipe would
+be correct with the surroundings. The walls at the water's edge were
+vertical for long distances up to eight hundred feet, and being now in
+all about three thousand feet and not a great ways apart, the outlook
+ahead was something almost overpowering in its deep suggestion of
+mysterious and untold realms to come. On the first voyage it would have
+been easy to persuade oneself that the river was soon to become
+subterranean, but the Major having solved the enigma, we could look with
+indifference on the threatening prospect. Yet the walls nevertheless
+seemed to have a determination to close together overhead as we looked
+down the descending waters before us, with cliff mounting on cliff and
+the distance from one to the other appearing so very small. Deep and
+sombre were the shadows at the bends, and the imagination needed no spur
+to picture there rapids, falls, cataracts, of giant proportions. We made
+nearly eleven miles and ran ten very big rapids, meeting with no
+accident, though one was particularly violent and filled us half full of
+water in the fierce breakers. The stage of water was exactly right for
+this stretch; a lower stage would certainly have given us far more
+trouble. Our stop for the night, Camp 92, was made on a wide sandbank on
+the left, with some mesquite growing nearby, our first acquaintance with
+this tree on the river. We now were getting on so well and were so
+comfortable that we felt quite happy and Jack as usual entertained us
+with several songs. The next day, Thursday the 22d, Jack and Clem took
+some photographs in the morning and I hunted fossils for the Major in
+the limestone shales which had run up under the marble. By nine o'clock
+we were packed up again in our usual good form, everything in the rubber
+sacks, hatches firmly battened down, life-preservers ready, and we set
+forth for another day's battle. There were numerous large rapids and the
+impetuous river, turbid and grim, rushed down with a continuity that
+kept us alert every instant. Though we descended with terrific velocity,
+nothing gave us any particular trouble before dinner, which we ate in
+the shade of a mesquite on the right at the mouth of a couple of giant
+gulches. Here we discovered a large patch of cacti loaded with the red
+prickly pears or cactus apples, as we called them. They were
+ripe,--seeming to me to be half way between a fig and a tomato,--and
+very welcome for dessert, as we had eaten no fresh fruit since a
+watermelon brought along as far as the first noon camp. All the
+vegetation was different from that of the upper canyons and of a kind
+indicating a hotter climate; cacti, yucca, etc. In the afternoon the
+walls became greater, the river ran swifter, the descent seemed almost
+without a break, for rapid followed rapid in such quick succession that
+it was next to impossible to separate them one from another. At times we
+could barely maintain control of the boats so powerful and uninterrupted
+was the turbulent sweep of the great narrow flood. At one place as we
+were being hurled along at a tremendous speed we suddenly perceived
+immediately ahead of us and in such a position that we could not avoid
+dashing into it, a fearful commotion of the waters, indicating many
+large rocks near the surface. The Major stood on the middle deck, his
+life-preserver in place, and holding by his left hand to the arm of the
+well secured chair to prevent being thrown off by the lurching of the
+boat, peered into the approaching maelstrom. It looked to him like the
+end for us and he exclaimed calmly, "By God, boys, we're gone!" With
+terrific impetus we sped into the seething, boiling turmoil, expecting
+to feel a crash and to have the _Dean_ crumble beneath us, but instead
+of that unfortunate result she shot through smoothly without a scratch,
+the rocks being deeper than appeared by the disturbance on the surface.
+We had no time to think over this agreeable delivery, for on came the
+rapids or rather other rough portions of the unending declivity
+requiring instant and continuous attention, the Major rapidly giving the
+orders, Left, right, hard on the right, steady, hard on the left, _hard
+on the left_, h-a-r-d on the left, pull away strong, etc.,
+Jones aiding our oars by his long steering sweep. Rowing for progress
+was unnecessary; the oars were required only for steering or for pulling
+as fast as we could to avoid some bad place.
+
+At the same time the walls constantly gained height as the torrent cut
+down its bed till both together, with the rapidity of our movement,
+fairly made one dizzy. In turning a bend we saw back through a gulch the
+summit of the Kaibab's huge cliffs, the total height above our heads
+being over five thousand feet; a sublime vista. The immediate walls of
+Marble Canyon were here about 3500 feet, not all vertical but rising in
+buttresses, terraces, and perpendicular faces, while immediately at the
+river they were now generally flanked by talus or broken ledges giving
+ample footing, as seen in the illustration opposite page 219. Words are
+not adequate to describe this particular day in Marble Canyon; it must
+be experienced to be appreciated and I will not strive further to convey
+my impressions. As the sun sank to the western edge of the outer world
+we were rushing down a long straight stretch of canyon, and the colossal
+precipices looming on all sides, as well as dead ahead across our
+pathway, positively appeared about to overwhelm the entire river by
+their ponderous magnificence, burnished at their summits by the dying
+sun. On, down the headlong flood our faithful boats carried us to the
+gloom that seemed to be the termination of all except subterranean
+progress, but at the very bottom of this course there was a bend to the
+west, and we found ourselves at the mouth of a deep side canyon coming
+in from the east, with a small stream flowing into the big river. This
+was the mouth of the Little Colorado and the end at last of Marble
+Canyon, one of the straightest, deepest, narrowest, and most majestic
+chasms of the whole long series. It also had more wall rising vertically
+from the water's edge than any other canyon we had encountered.
+
+Our distance for the day was eighteen miles with eighteen rapids, one
+nearly three miles long and all following each other so closely they
+were well-nigh continuous. We ran seventeen and made one let-down. It
+was a glorious day and a fitting preparation for our entrance into the
+next stupendous canyon which the Major styled the "Sockdologer of the
+World," the now famous Grand Canyon.[32] Our altitude was 2690 feet,
+giving a descent in the sixty-five and one-half miles of Marble Canyon
+of 480 feet, leaving 1850 feet still to be overcome before we could
+reach the mouth of the Grand Wash and the end of the Grand Canyon. I
+counted sixty-three rapids in Marble Canyon, Prof. sixty-nine. We made
+four portages and let down by line six times.
+
+[Illustration: Canyon of the Little Colorado.
+
+Photograph by C. Barthelmess.]
+
+Our Camp 93 was on the left bank of the Little Colorado, and there we
+remained for Friday, August 23d, to reconnoitre the neighbourhood, and
+to give Prof. an opportunity to get the latitude and longitude. The
+Little Colorado was a red stream about sixty feet wide and four or five
+deep, salty and impossible to drink. The Great Colorado was also muddy
+and not altogether palatable, for one's hand dipped in and allowed to
+dry became encrusted with sediment; but the water otherwise was pure.
+The river had been rapidly rising for several days and was still coming
+up so that we were likely to have in the Grand Canyon more water than we
+required. I climbed up the wall on the north side of the Little Colorado
+thinking I might be able to reach the summit, but when about half-way up
+I met vast and vertical heights that were impossible and returned to
+camp. The next morning, Saturday, August 24th, we packed up and entered
+the Grand Canyon proper on an easy river, making about five miles in
+half an hour and putting behind six rapids all small, camping at the
+head of one that was more threatening. Here a little creek came in from
+the right, or west, near camp. The canyon was wider than above, and we
+could see the summits around that were six thousand feet above the
+river, but some miles back. In the morning I made a geological sketch,
+and in the afternoon I climbed a high peak and put in some of the
+topography. The next morning we crossed the river to examine a large
+igneous butte where we found a small vein of copper ore, and after
+dinner Prof. and I climbed a couple of peaks and did some triangulating.
+Monday the 26th found us still at Camp 94 to further investigate the
+surroundings, and the Major, Prof., Jones, and I climbed up on the north
+about 2600 feet in order to get a better idea of the several valleys
+which here seemed to compose the bottom of the great chasm, and did not
+reach camp till after dark. Everything now developed on a still larger
+and grander scale; we saw before us an enormous gorge, very wide at the
+top, which could engulf an ordinary mountain range and lose it within
+its vast depths and ramifications. Multitudinous lofty mesas, buttes,
+and pinnacles began to appear, each a mighty mountain in itself, but
+more or less overwhelmed by the greater grandeur of the Cyclopean
+environment.
+
+Tuesday, August 27th, after Prof. had put a new tube in the second
+barometer which had somehow been broken, we pushed off once more to see
+what the day would develop. The rapid just below camp we ran through
+easily and then made swift progress for seven miles, running nine more
+rapids, two rather bad ones. The _Canonita_ grounded once on a shoal but
+got off without damage. Where we stopped for dinner we caught sight of
+two mountain sheep drinking, and Andy and I got our guns out of the
+cabins as quickly as possible and started after them, but they flew away
+like birds of the air. Near this point there was a small abandoned hut
+of mesquite logs. We went into camp farther down on the left for
+investigations, the Major and I going up the river and finding a small
+salty creek which we followed for a time on an old trail, the Major
+studying the geology and collecting specimens of the rocks, which we
+carried back to camp, arriving after dark. The geology and topography
+here were complicated and particularly interesting, and we ought to have
+been able to spend more days, but the food question, as well as time,
+was a determining factor in our movements, and with only two boats our
+rations would carry us with necessary stops only to the mouth of the
+Kanab Canyon where our pack-train would meet us on September 4th. There
+was no other place above Diamond Creek known at that time, except
+perhaps the spot near Mount Trumbull, where supplies could be brought
+in. On Wednesday we ran two or three miles and stopped for our
+photographers to get some views opposite a rust-coloured sandstone. We
+also had dinner at this place and then continued the descent. After
+running four rapids successfully, making a let-down at another, and a
+portage over the upper end of a sixth we were ready, having made in all
+six miles, to go into camp part way down the last, one of the heaviest
+falls we had so far encountered. It was perhaps half a mile long, with a
+declivity of at least forty feet, studded by numerous enormous boulders.
+A heavy rain began during our work of getting below, and our clothes
+being already wet the air became very chilly. We had to carry the
+cargoes only a short distance, with no climbing, and there was ample
+room so the portage was not difficult in that respect. But though we
+could manoeuvre the empty boats down along the shore amidst the big
+rocks, they were exceedingly heavy for our small band, and in sliding
+them down between the huge masses, with the water pouring around and
+often into them, we sometimes had as much as we could do to manage them,
+each man being obliged to strain his muscle to the limit. Jack from this
+cause hurt his back so badly that he could not lift at all, and overcome
+by the sudden weakness and pain he came near sinking into the swift
+river at the stern of the _Dean_ where he happened at the moment to be
+working. I heard his cry and clambered over to seize him as quickly as I
+could, helping him to shore, where we did all that was possible for his
+comfort. As we were going no farther that day he was able to rest, and
+in the morning felt much better, though his back was still weak. Andy
+took his place in our boat to run the lower end of the rapid, which was
+easily done. We landed below on the same side, enabling Andy to go back
+to help bring down the _Canonita_, while Jack walked along the rocks to
+where we were. Here we remained for a couple of hours while I climbed up
+for the Major and measured the "Red Beds," and Jack rested again,
+improving very fast. When we were ready to go on his trouble had almost
+disappeared.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+From just below the Little Colorado.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.]
+
+A dark granite formation had run up at the foot of the last fall and it
+rose rapidly higher, hemming the water in with steep, forbidding cliffs
+close together. The river became much narrower and swirled with an
+oily-looking current around the buttresses of granite that thrust
+themselves from one side or the other into it. The declivity was not
+great and the torrent was otherwise placid. After three miles of this
+ominous docility, just as the dinner hour was near and the threatening
+black granite had risen to one thousand feet above the water, we heard a
+deep, sullen roar ahead and from the boats the whole river seemed to
+vanish instantly from earth. At once we ran in on the right to a small
+area of great broken rocks that protruded above the water at the foot of
+the wall, and stepping out on these we could look down on one of the
+most fearful places I ever saw or ever hope to see under like
+circumstances,--a place that might have been the Gate to Hell that
+Steward had mentioned. We were near the beginning of a tremendous fall.
+The narrow river dropped suddenly and smoothly away, and then, beaten to
+foam, plunged and boomed for a third of a mile through a descent of from
+eighty to one hundred feet, the enormous waves leaping twenty or thirty
+feet into the air and sending spray twice as high.[33] On each side were
+the steep, ragged granitic walls, with the tumultuous waters lashing and
+pounding against them in a way that precluded all idea of portage or
+let-down. It needed no second glance to tell us that there was only one
+way of getting below. If the rocks did not stop us we could "cross to
+Killiloo," and when a driving rain had ceased Andy gathered the few
+sticks of driftwood available for a fire, by which he prepared some
+dinner in advance of the experiment. Jack and Clem took three negatives,
+and when the dinner was disposed of we stowed all loose articles snugly
+away in the cabins, except a camp-kettle in each standing-room to bail
+with, and then battening down the hatches with extra care, and making
+everything shipshape, we pulled the _Dean_ up-stream, leaving the
+_Canonita_ and her crew to watch our success or failure and profit by
+it. The Major had on his life-preserver and so had Jones, but Jack and I
+put ours behind our seats, where we could catch them up quickly, for
+they were so large we thought they impeded the handling of the oars.
+Jack's back had fortunately now recovered, so that he was able to row
+almost his usual stroke. We pulled up-stream about a quarter of a mile
+close to the right-hand wall, in order that we might get well into the
+middle of the river before making the great plunge, and then we turned
+our bow out and secured the desired position as speedily as possible,
+heading down upon the roaring enemy--roaring as if it would surely
+swallow us at one gulp.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+Running the Sockdologer.
+
+From a sketch afterwards by F. S. Dellenbaugh.]
+
+My back being towards the fall I could not see it, for I could not turn
+round while waiting every instant for orders. Nearer and nearer came
+the angry tumult; the Major shouted "Back water!" there was a sudden
+dropping away of all support; then the mighty waves smote us. The boat
+rose to them well, but we were flying at twenty-five miles an hour and
+at every leap the breakers rolled over us. "Bail!" shouted the
+Major,--"Bail for your lives!" and we dropped the oars to bail, though
+bailing was almost useless. The oars could not get away, for they had
+rawhide rings nailed around near the handle to prevent them from
+slipping through the rowlocks. The boat rolled and pitched like a ship
+in a tornado, and as she flew along Jack and I, who faced backwards,
+could look up under the canopies of foam pouring over gigantic black
+boulders, first on one side, then on the other. Why we did not land on
+top of one of these and turn over I don't know, unless it might be that
+the very fury of the current causes a recoil. However that may be, we
+struck nothing but the waves, the boats riding finely and certainly
+leaping at times almost half their length out of water, to bury
+themselves quite as far at the next lunge. If you will take a watch and
+count by it ninety seconds, you will probably have about the time we
+were in this chaos, though it seemed much longer to me. Then we were
+through, and immediately took advantage of an eddy on one side to lie to
+and bail out, for the boat was full of water. Setting her to rights as
+quickly as we could, we got ready to make a dash for the crew of the
+_Canonita_ in case she fared worse than we did. We looked anxiously for
+her to appear, and presently, at the top of what seemed to us now to be
+a straight wall of foam, her small white bulk hung for an instant and
+then vanished from our sight in the mad flood. Soon appearing at the
+bottom uninjured, she ran in to where we were waiting. The _Canonita_,
+being lighter than our boat, did not ship as much water as in some other
+places, and altogether we agreed that notwithstanding its great descent
+and furious aspect the passage was not more difficult than we had made
+in several previous rapids.
+
+Continuing on down the narrow and gloomy granite gorge, we encountered
+about a mile farther down a singular rapid, which turned the _Canonita_
+completely around. About four o'clock we found ourselves before another
+tremendous fall, and a very ugly one. Landing on the left, we discovered
+that to be the wrong side, and crossed over to a little cove where
+there was a patch of gravel, surrounded by vertical walls, the crossing
+being easily made because the water seemed to slacken before the plunge.
+We did not intend to run the place if it could be avoided, and the south
+side gave no opportunity whatever for a portage, while the north side
+offered no very easy course. Prof. declared this to be one of the worst
+rapids we had seen, and we were now about two hundred feet above the
+head of it, with the vertical cliffs between. Immediately at the
+beginning of the drop on the same side that we were on was a pile of
+boulders, and our plan was to engineer the boats by lines from where we
+had landed down to these rocks, from which we believed we could work
+around over the rocks into an alcove there was there, and thence go down
+till we reached the lower part of the descent, through which we could
+navigate. Consequently several of the men entered one boat, and we
+lowered her from the stern of the second as far as her line would reach,
+and then lowered the second till the first lodged in the rocks at the
+desired point at the head of the fall. Then, pulling up the second boat,
+we who had remained got on board, and by clinging to the projections of
+the wall, the current close in being quite slow, we succeeded in
+arriving alongside the first boat. The next thing was to get around into
+the alcove. The sky above was heavy and rain began to come down
+steadily, making the dark granite blacker and intensifying the gloomy
+character of the locality. By hard work we finally got our boats across
+the rocks and down about two hundred feet farther into a cove, where
+they rested easily. Up to this time we had made in all, during the day,
+seven and one-quarter miles. As night was now dropping fast we had to
+make camp on a pile of broken granite, where a close search yielded an
+armful or two of small pieces of driftwood, all wet. Under a rock
+several dry sticks were discovered, and by their aid a fire soon blazed
+up by which the indomitable Andy proceeded to get supper. There was no
+use changing wet clothes for dry ones from the rubber bags as long as
+the rain fell, and it increased till water was dashing off the walls in
+streams. The thunder roared and crashed as if it were knocking the
+cliffs about to rearrange them all, and a deluge swept down in which
+Andy's struggling little fire died with hardly a sputter. The only thing
+remaining for us to do was to all stand with our backs against the foot
+of the wall, which was still warm from the day, and wait for something
+else to happen. The bread-pan seen through the dim and dismal light was
+a tempestuous lake, with an island of dough in it, while Andy the
+undaunted stood grimly gazing at it, the rain dribbling from his hat and
+shoulders till he resembled the fabled ferryman of the River Styx. The
+situation was so ludicrous that every one laughed, and the Weather God
+finding that we were not downcast slackened the downpour immediately.
+Then we put some oars against the wall and stretched a paulin to protect
+our noble chef, who finally got the wet firewood once more ignited, and
+succeeded in getting the bread almost baked and the coffee nearly hot
+and some dried peaches almost stewed. The rain ceasing, we hurriedly
+donned dry clothes and applied ourselves to the destruction of these
+viands, which tasted better than might be imagined. Each man then took
+his blankets, and, selecting rocks that in his judgment were the
+softest, he went to sleep.
+
+There was another alcove about three hundred yards below our camp, and
+in the morning, Friday, August 30th, we proceeded to work our way down
+to this, several men clambering along a ledge about 150 feet above the
+water with the line, while I remained each time in the boat below with
+an oar to keep the bow in against the wall, so that she could not take
+the current on the wrong side--that is, on the side next to the
+wall--and cut out into the river. In this way we got both boats down to
+the alcove, whence we intended to pull out into the current and run the
+lower portion of the rapid. It was only noon when we reached the place,
+but then we discovered that both boats had been so pounded that they
+badly needed repairs--in fact, it was imperative to halt there for this
+purpose,--and we hauled them out on a patch of broken rocks, thirty or
+forty feet square, filling the curve of the alcove and bounded by
+vertical rocks and the river. While at work on them we happened to
+notice that the river was rapidly rising, and, setting a mark, the rate
+was found to be three feet an hour. The rocks on which we were standing
+and where all the cargo was lying were being submerged. We looked around
+for some way to get up the cliff, as it was now too late to think of
+leaving. About fifteen feet above the top of the rocks on which we were
+working there was a shelf five or six feet wide, to which some of the
+men climbed, and we passed up every article to them. When the repairs
+were done darkness was filling the great gorge. By means of lines from
+above and much hard lifting we succeeded in raising the boats up the
+side of the cliff, till they were four or five feet above the highest
+rocks of the patch on which we stood. This insured their safety for the
+time being, and if the river mounted to them we intended to haul them
+still higher. The next thing was to find a place to sleep. By walking
+out on a ledge from the shelf where our goods were we could turn a
+jutting point above the rushing river by clinging closely to the rocks,
+and walk back on a shelf on the other side to a considerable area of
+finely broken rocks, thirty feet above the torrent, where there was room
+enough for a camp. Rain fell at intervals, and the situation was
+decidedly unpromising. While Andy and the others were getting the cook
+outfit and rations around the point, I climbed the cliffs hunting for
+wood. I found small pieces of driftwood lodged behind mesquite bushes
+fully one hundred feet above the prevailing stage of water. I collected
+quite an armful of half-dead mesquite, which has the advantage of being
+so compact that it makes a fire hot as coal, and little is needed to
+cook by. Supper was not long in being despatched, and then, every man
+feeling about worn out, we put on dry clothes, the rain having ceased,
+and went to sleep on the rocks. Before doing so we climbed back to
+examine the boats, and found the river was not coming up farther, though
+it had almost completely covered the rocks.
+
+Saturday, the 21st of August, 1872, was about the gloomiest morning I
+ever saw. Rain was falling, the clouds hung low over our heads like a
+lid to the box-like chasm in the black, funereal granite enclosing us,
+while the roar of the big rapid seemed to be intensified. We felt like
+rats in a trap. Eating breakfast as quickly as possible, we got
+everything together again on the shelf and lowered the boats. Though the
+river was not rising, it beat and surged into the cove in a way that
+made the boats jump and bounce the moment they touched the water. To
+prevent their being broken by pounding, one man at each steadied them
+while the others passed down the sacks and instrument boxes. Then it was
+seen that either a new leak had sprung in the _Dean_ amidships or a hole
+had not been caulked, for a stream as wide as two fingers was spurting
+into the middle cabin. To repair her now meant hauling both boats back
+against the side of the cliff and spending another day in this trap,
+with the chance of the river rising much higher before night so that we
+might not be able to get away at all--at least not for days. For an
+instant the Major thought of pulling the boats out again, but as his
+quick judgment reviewed the conditions he exclaimed, "By God, we'll
+start! Load up!" It was the rarest thing for him to use an oath, and I
+remember only one other occasion when he did so--in Marble Canyon when
+he thought we were going to smash. We threw the things in as fast as we
+could, jammed a bag of flour against the leak in the _Dean_, battened
+down the hatches, threw our rifles into the bottom of the standing rooms
+where the water and sand washed unheeded over them, and jumped to our
+oars. The crew of the _Canonita_ held our stern till the bow swung out
+into the river, and then at the signal Jack and I laid to with all our
+strength--to shoot clear of an enormous rock about fifty feet below
+against which the fierce current was dashing. The _Dean_ was so nearly
+water-logged that she was sluggish in responding to the oars, but we
+swept past the rock safely and rolled along down the river in the tail
+of the rapid with barely an inch of gunwale to spare,--in fact I thought
+the boat might sink. As soon as we saw a narrow talus on the right we
+ran in and landed.
+
+When the _Canonita_ was ready to start one of Clem's oars could not be
+found, and Prof. had to delay to cut down one of the extras for him.
+Then they got their boat up as far as they could, and while Prof. and
+Andy kept her from pounding to pieces, Clem got in, bailed out, and took
+his oars. Prof. then climbed in at the stern, but the current was so
+strong that it pulled Andy off his feet and he was just able to get on,
+the boat drifting down stern first toward the big rock. Prof. concluded
+to let the stern strike and then try to throw the boat around into the
+river. By this time Andy had got hold of his oars, and the eddy seemed
+to carry them up-stream some twenty-five feet, so perverse and
+capricious is the Colorado. They swung the bow to starboard into the
+main current, and with a couple of strong oar-strokes the dreaded rock
+was cleared, and down the _Canonita_ came to us over the long waves like
+a hunted deer. We unloaded the _Dean_ and pulled her out for repairs,
+but it was after four o'clock when we were able to go on again with a
+fairly tight boat. Then for eight miles the river was a continuous rapid
+broken by eight heavy falls, but luckily there were no rocks in any of
+them at this stage of water, and we were able to dash through one after
+another at top speed, stopping only once for examination. Two of these
+rapids were portages on the former trip, proving the ease and advantage
+of high water in some places; but the disadvantages are much greater.
+Through a very narrow canyon on the right we caught a glimpse of a
+pretty creek, but we were going so fast the view was brief and
+imperfect. At 5:15 o'clock we ran up to a wide sandbank on which grew a
+solitary willow tree and there Camp 99 was made. For a space the inner
+canyon was much wider than above and the mouth of Bright Angel Creek was
+just below us; a locality now well known because a trail from the Hotel
+Tovar on the south rim comes down at this point. The name was applied by
+the Major on his first trip to offset the name Dirty Devil applied
+farther up.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+From Top of Granite, South Side near Bright Angel Creek.]
+
+The next day was Sunday, September 1st, and after the Major had climbed
+the south wall for observations we started once more on a powerful
+current. For the first three miles there was a continuous rapid with no
+opportunity to land. We dashed through waves that tossed us badly and
+filled the boats half full and then half full again before we had a
+chance to bail. In fifteen minutes we made the three miles and a half
+mile more, to arrive at a heavy rapid, which we ran and in two miles
+reached another with fearful waves, which we also ran. In one Jones was
+overbalanced by his oar hitting the top of a big wave behind the boat
+and he was knocked out. He clung by his knees and hands, his back in the
+water, and the boat careened till I thought she would go over. We could
+not move to help him without upsetting and were compelled to leave him
+to his own resources. In some way he succeeded in scrambling back. The
+waves were tremendous and sometimes seemed to come from all directions
+at once. There were whirlpools, too, that turned us round in spite of
+every effort to prevent it. The river was about one hundred and fifty
+feet wide. After an extremely strenuous morning we halted on the right
+for dinner, continuing as soon as we had disposed of it. Presently we
+arrived at a sharp fall of about twenty feet, where we made a portage,
+and waited at the foot for the photographers to take some negatives and
+also for repairing the _Canonita_. Finally it was decided to camp on
+the spot. It was Camp 100. Our record for the day was a trifle over
+seven miles with nine rapids run and one portage.
+
+Almost the first thing in the morning of September 2d was a portage,
+after which we had fair water for two or three miles, and then reached a
+very heavy fall, where we landed on the left and had dinner before
+making another portage. This accomplished, we proceeded on a river still
+rising and ran a great many bad rapids, some of them having tremendous
+falls. In one the fierce current set against the cliff so strongly that
+we were carried within an oar's length of it, notwithstanding our severe
+effort to avoid so close an acquaintance with the rough wall. Even
+between rapids the velocity of the water was extremely high and we flew
+along at terrific speed, while in the huge waves of the rapids the boats
+leaped and plunged with startling violence. Toward night a sudden halt
+was made on the left to examine a bad-looking place half a mile below.
+The Major and Prof. tried to climb where they could get a good view of
+it, but they failed. The Major said we would run it in the morning,
+though Prof. was dubious about the feasibility of doing so successfully
+and said he thought it about the worst place we had yet seen. We camped
+on a rocky talus where we were. A small sandbank was found nearby for
+our beds, and we made another discovery, a small pool of clear, pure
+water, a rare treat after the muddy Colorado which we had been drinking
+for so long. Twenty rapids were placed to our credit for this one day in
+a trifle over fifteen miles, and we felt that we were vanquishing the
+Grand Canyon with considerable success.
+
+Our life now was so strenuous every hour of the day that our songs were
+forgotten, and when night came every man was so used up that as soon as
+supper was over rest and sleep were the only things that interested us.
+Though our beds were as hard and rough as anything could be, we slept
+with the intensity of the rocks themselves, and it never seemed more
+than a few minutes before we were aroused by the Major's rising signal
+"Oh-ho, boys!" and rose to our feet to pack the blankets in the rubber
+bags, sometimes with a passing thought as to whether we would ever take
+them out again. For my part, never before nor since have I been so
+tired. One night when the Major called us to look out for the boats I
+did not hear him and no one waked me so I slept on, learning about it
+only the next morning. Our food supply was composed partly of jerked
+beef, and as this could not be put in rubber because of the grease it
+became more or less damp and there developed in it a peculiar kind of
+worm, the largest about an inch long, with multitudinous legs. There
+were a great many of them and they gave the beef a queer taste. In order
+to clear the sacks as far as possible of these undesirable denizens I
+several times emptied them on wide smooth rocks, and while the worms
+were scrambling around I scraped up the beef without many of them, but
+could not get rid of all. Andy's method of cooking this beef was to make
+a gravy with bacon fat and scorched flour and then for a few moments
+stew the beef in the gravy. Ordinarily this made a very palatable dish
+but the peculiar flavour of the beef now detracted from it, though we
+were so hungry that we could eat anything without a query, and our
+diminishing supply of rations forbade the abandonment of the valuable
+beef.
+
+When we arose on the morning of September 3d the dubious rapid was
+tossing its huge waves exactly as on the night before and humanity
+seemed to be out of the reckoning. By eight o'clock we were ready for
+it, and with everything in good trim we pushed off. The current was
+strong from the start, and a small rapid just below camp gave additional
+speed, so that we were soon bearing down on the big one with wild
+velocity. The river dropped away abruptly, to rise again in a succession
+of fearful billows whose crests leaped and danced high in air as if
+rejoicing at the prospect of annihilating us. Just then the Major
+changed his mind as to running the place, for now standing on the boat's
+deck he could see it better than before from the region of our camp. He
+ordered us to pull hard on our left, intending to land at a spot that
+was propitious on the left or south bank, but no sooner had he given
+this command than he perceived that no landing above the fall was
+possible. He gave another order which put us straight in the middle
+again and down we flew upon the descent. The Major as usual had put on
+his life-preserver and I think Jones had on his, but Jack and I, as was
+our custom, placed ours inflated immediately behind our seats, not
+wishing to be hampered by them. The plunge was exceedingly sharp and
+deep, and then we found ourselves tossing like a chip in a frightful
+chaos of breakers which almost buried us, though the boats rose to them
+as well as any craft possibly could. I bailed with a camp kettle rapidly
+and Jack did the same, but the boat remained full to the gunwales as we
+were swept on. We had passed the worst of it when, just as the _Dean_
+mounted a giant wave at an angle perhaps of forty or fifty degrees, the
+crest broke in a deluge against the port bow with a loud slap. In an
+instant we were upside-down going over to starboard. I threw up my hand
+instinctively to grasp something, and luckily caught hold of a spare oar
+which was carried slung on the side, and by this means I pulled myself
+above water. My hat was pasted down over my eyes. Freeing myself from
+this I looked about. Bottom up the boat was clear of the rapid and
+sweeping on down with the swift, boiling current toward a dark bend. The
+_Canonita_ was nowhere to be seen. No living thing was visible. The
+narrow black gorge rose in sombre majesty to the everlasting sky. What
+was a mere human life or two in the span of eternity? I was about
+preparing to climb up on the bottom of the boat when I perceived Jones
+clinging to the ring in the stern, and in another second the Major and
+Jack shot up alongside as if from a gun. The whole party had been kept
+together in a kind of whirlpool, and the Major and Jack had been pulled
+down head first till, as is the nature of these suctions on the
+Colorado, it suddenly changed to an upward force and threw them out into
+the air.
+
+There was no time to lose, for we did not wish to go far in this
+condition; another rapid might be in waiting around the corner. Jack and
+I carefully got up on the bottom, leaving the Major at the bow and Jones
+at the stern, and leaning over we took hold of the starboard gunwale
+under water, and throwing ourselves back quickly together we brought the
+_Dean_ up on her keel, though she came near rolling clear over the other
+way. She was even full of water, but the cabins supported her. Jack
+helped me in and then I balanced his effort so as not to capsize again.
+The bailing kettles were gone, but as our hats had strangely enough
+remained on our heads through it all we bailed with them as fast as
+possible for a few seconds till we lowered the water sufficiently to
+make it safe to get the others on board. The Major came aft along the
+gunwale and I helped him in, then Jack helped Jones. The oars,
+fortunately, had not come out of the locks, thanks to our excellent
+arrangement, and grasping them, without trying to haul in the bow line
+trailing a hundred feet in the water, we pulled hard for a slight eddy
+on the left where we perceived a footing on the rocks, and as soon as we
+were near enough I caught up the rope, made the leap, and threw the
+bight over a projection, where I held the boat while Jack and Jones
+bailed rapidly and set things in order so that we could go to the
+assistance of the _Canonita_. The Major's Jurgenssen chronometer had
+stopped at 8:26:30 from the wetting.
+
+The _Canonita_, being more lightly laden than the _Dean_, and also not
+meeting the peculiar coincidence of mounting a wave at the instant it
+broke, came down with no more damage than the loss of three oars and the
+breaking of a rowlock. Probably if the Major had sat down on the deck
+instead of in the chair we might also have weathered the storm.[34]
+About a mile and a half below we made a landing at a favourable spot on
+the right, where the cargoes were spread out to dry and the boats were
+overhauled, while the Major and I climbed up the wall to where he
+desired to make a geological investigation. We joked him a good deal
+about his zeal in going to examine the geology at the bottom of the
+river, but as a matter of fact he came near departing by that road to
+another world.
+
+We were now in an exceedingly difficult part of the granite gorge, for,
+at the prevailing stage of water, landings were either highly precarious
+or not possible at all, so we could not examine places before running,
+and could not always make a portage where we deemed it necessary. There
+were also all manner of whirlpools and bad places. Starting on about
+three o'clock we descended several rapids in about six miles, when we
+saw one ahead that looked particularly forbidding. The granite came down
+almost vertically to the water, projecting in huge buttresses that
+formed a succession of little bays, especially on the left, where we
+manoeuvred in and out, keeping close against the rocks, the current
+there being slack. The plan was for me to be ready, on turning the last
+point, to jump out on some rocks we had noticed from above not far from
+the beginning of the rapid. As we crept around the wall I stood up with
+the bight of the line in one hand, while Jack pulled in till we began to
+drift down stern foremost alongshore. At the proper moment I made my
+leap exactly calculated. Unluckily at the instant the capricious
+Colorado threw a "boil" up between the bow and the flat rock I was
+aiming at, turning the bow out several feet, and instead of landing
+where I intended I disappeared in deep water. I clung to the line and
+the acceleration of the boat's descent quickly pulled me back to the
+surface. She was gliding rapidly past more rocks and the Major jumped
+for them with the purpose of catching the rope, but they were so
+isolated and covered with rushing water that he had all he could do to
+take care of himself. Jones then tried the same thing, but with the same
+result. Jack stuck to his post. I went hand over hand to the bow as fast
+as I could, and reaching the gunwale I was on board in a second. One of
+my oars had somehow come loose, but Jack had caught it and now handed it
+to me. We took our places and surveyed the chances. Apparently we were
+in for running the rapid stern foremost and we prepared for it, but in
+the middle of the stream there was a rock of most gigantic proportions
+sloping up the river in such a way that the surges alternately rolled
+upon it and then slid back. Partly up the slope we were drawn by this
+power, and on the down rush the boat turned and headed diagonally just
+right for reaching the left bank. We saw our opportunity and, pulling
+with every muscle, lodged the _Dean_ behind a huge boulder at the very
+beginning of the main rapid, where I made the line fast in the twinkle
+of an eye. Meanwhile the Major had hastily scrambled up to where he
+could see down the canyon, and he heard Jack's hearty shout of "All
+right!" Lowering the _Dean_ a couple of rods farther to a sandbank at
+the mouth of a gulch we went into camp feeling that we had done enough
+river work for one day, and the _Canonita's_ crew without accident
+lowered down to the same place before Andy had supper ready. My hat had
+come off in my deep plunge and beyond this I did not have one. Near by
+was a small clear spring that gave us another treat of palatable water,
+the Colorado now being muddier than ever, as it was still on the rise,
+coming up three feet more while we were here. The entire day's run was
+eight and one-eighth miles. The Major and Prof. succeeded in getting
+down three miles on foot to reconnoitre.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+Character of River in Rapids.
+
+Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh, 1907.]
+
+Continuing in the morning, September 4th, we lowered the boats past the
+remainder of the rapid and then shoved out into the terrific current
+once more. Water could hardly run faster than it now did, except in a
+fall or rapid. The canyon was narrow and for five miles we encountered
+the worst whirlpools we had anywhere seen. The descent was swift and
+continuous, but the river was broken only by the whirlpools and "boils"
+as we called them, the surface suddenly seeming to boil up and run over.
+These upshoots, as a rule, seemed to follow whirlpools. In the latter
+the water for a diameter of twenty or twenty-five feet would revolve
+around a centre with great rapidity, the surface inclining to the
+vortex, the top of which was perhaps eighteen or twenty inches lower
+than the general level. The vortex itself was perfectly formed, like a
+large funnel, and about six or eight inches in diameter, where it began
+to be a hole in the water, tapering thence down in four or five feet to
+a mere point. The same effect is often seen when the water is flowing
+out of a round wash-basin through a pipe at the bottom. These were the
+most perfect whirlpools I have ever seen, those above having been
+lacking in so distinct a vortex. There were many and we could often see
+them ahead, but try as we would to cleave through without a complete
+revolution or two of the boat we could not do it. The boats sank down
+into the hollow, enabling one to look over the side into the spinning
+opening, but the boats, being almost as long as the whirlpool's usual
+diameter, could not be pulled in and we were not alarmed. We found it
+rather interesting to see if we could get through without turning, but
+we never did. Any ordinary short object or one that could be tipped on
+end would surely go out of sight. So furious ran the river along this
+stretch that we found it impossible to stop, the boats being like bits
+of paper in a mill-race, swinging from one side to the other, and
+whirling round and round as we were swept along between the narrow walls
+till we ran the granite under about five miles from our last camp.
+Finally, after a run all told of fourteen miles with twenty-three
+rapids, we made Camp 103 with walls of friendly sandstone about us. Here
+again we discovered a small clear spring for drinking and cooking
+purposes. There was no rain this day and at night we put on our dry
+clothes with confidence and had a warm comfortable camp with a good
+sound sleep.
+
+Thursday morning found us early on the river, which to our surprise
+turned suddenly in a north-north-east direction. When we had gone about
+nine miles and had run the granite up and down again, it began to turn
+to the west. At one point the river was not more than fifty feet wide;
+the current was everywhere exceedingly strong and there were many
+rapids, of which we ran twelve, and made a portage at another, and a
+let-down at still another. We camped at the end of the nine miles on a
+small sandbank, with the total height of walls about four thousand feet,
+breaking back in terraces after about eight hundred feet. Clem and Jack
+made a number of photographs wherever practicable, and altogether they
+had succeeded in securing a representative collection.
+
+During the morning of Friday, September 6th, we ran two rapids in two
+miles, which brought us to one which we thought required a let-down and
+we made it. As it was easy, Jack and Clem busied themselves
+photographing while we were doing it, and we also had dinner here. About
+two o'clock we went on and in less than three miles ran four rapids, the
+fourth being an exceedingly heavy fall, at the foot of which we went
+into camp on the right bank. A little distance above on the same side of
+the river was a fine clear cold creek larger than the Paria in quantity
+of water. We called it Tapeats Creek, because a Pai Ute of that name,
+who had pointed it out to the Major from the Kaibab, claimed it. During
+the day the work had been far less strenuous, there were few whirlpools,
+the river was falling, and it was in every way much easier than above in
+the granite. A morning was spent at Tapeats Creek for examinations, and
+we found there some ancient house ruins not far up the side canyon. I
+discovered a fine large metate or Indian mill, deeply hollowed out, and
+foolishly attempted to take it to camp. On arriving there it was so
+heavy I had to drop it and it broke in two, much to the Major's disgust,
+who told me I ought to have let it alone, a fact which I realised then
+also. Our rations were now running very low again, for we had taken more
+days for this passage than were planned, and as soon as we launched
+forth after dinner we began to look longingly for the mouth of Kanab
+Canyon and the pack-train. The river was much easier in every respect,
+and after our experience of the previous days it seemed mere play. The
+granite ran up for a mile or two, but then we entered sedimentary strata
+and came to a pretty little cascade falling through a crevice on the
+right from a valley hidden behind a low wall. We at once recognised it
+as one which Beaman had photographed when he and Riley had made their
+way up along the rocks from the mouth of the Kanab during the winter. We
+remembered that they had called it ten miles to the Kanab from this
+place, and after we had climbed up to examine what they had named
+Surprise Valley we went on expecting to reach the Kanab before night.
+Running several small and one fairly large rapid, we saw, after twelve
+miles from the last camp, a seeming crack on the right, and a few
+seconds later heard a wild yelling. In a little while we landed and
+lowered to the head of a rapid, and running to the right up the
+backwater into the mouth of the Kanab Canyon, we found George Adair,
+Nathan Adams, and Joe Hamblin, our three faithful packers, waiting there
+for us with the rations. They had grown very anxious, for we were
+several days overdue, and they feared we had been destroyed,--a fear
+that was emphasised by one of Andy's discarded shirts washing ashore at
+their feet. We pulled the boats a short distance up the Kanab on the
+backwater and made a comfortable camp, 106, on its right bank, where we
+were soon lost in letters and papers the pack-train had brought down.
+
+Our altitude was now 1800 feet above sea-level, showing a descent from
+the Little Colorado, in about 70 miles, of 890 feet, with 131 rapids
+run, besides six let-downs and seven portages. The total descent from
+the Paria was 1370 feet.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 32: There is but one Grand Canyon--the one here referred to.
+Persons unfamiliar with Western geography frequently confound the Canyon
+of the Arkansas with that of the Colorado because the former is in the
+state of Colorado. The Grand Canyon is in Arizona but on the
+_Colorado_ River.]
+
+[Footnote 33: Professor Thompson in his diary calls the descent 130 feet
+in three-quarters of a mile.]
+
+[Footnote 34: For the benefit of any one who contemplates descending the
+Colorado I would state that unsinkable boats are the only kind to use
+and the centre of gravity should be kept low. Cork life-jackets are
+indispensable.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+     A New Departure--Farewell to the Boats--Out to the World
+     through Kanab Canyon--A Midnight Ride--At the Innupin
+     Picavu--Prof. Reconnoitres the Shewits Country--Winter
+     Quarters in Kanab--Making the Preliminary Map--Another New
+     Year--Across a high Divide in a Snow-storm--Down the Sevier in
+     Winter--The Last Summons.
+
+
+The day following our arrival at the mouth of the Kanab Canyon was
+Sunday, September 8th, and with the exception of some observations taken
+by Prof., and the writing of notes, the whole camp was in a state of
+rest. After our trying work in the granite we enjoyed immensely the
+lying around warm and dry with plenty to eat. Monday morning everybody
+expected to begin preparations for the descent to the Grand Wash. We
+were surprised just as we were about to rise from our places around the
+canvas on which breakfast had been spread, when the Major, who was
+sitting in his chair thinking, suddenly exclaimed, "Well, boys, our
+voyage is done!" In a way these words were a disappointment, for we all
+wanted to complete the task and we were entirely ready to go on,
+notwithstanding that our recent experience with high water in the
+granite indicated great hazard ahead, where there was more granite; but
+on the whole the disappointment was agreeable. We knew the second
+granite gorge toward the lower end of the chasm to be nearly as bad as
+the first one. There was besides one exceedingly difficult passage
+there, which Prof. called Catastrophe Rapid, where the Howlands and Dunn
+had left the first party, which on the prevailing stage of water the
+Major believed would be foolhardy to attempt. Prof. in his diary says,
+"It is nonsense to think of trying the lower bend with this water." He
+and the Major had talked the matter over Saturday night and thought of
+stopping about forty miles down at Mount Trumbull, where we knew we
+could climb out; then they thought of sending only one boat that far,
+but by Sunday night they decided to end all river work here. Prof. said
+he could map the course from the notes of the first party and that he
+would rather explore the adjacent country by land.[35] There were some
+breaks in the notes from here down to Catastrophe Rapid, due to the fact
+that when the papers were divided on that memorable day on which the
+Howlands and Dunn left the party, instead of each division having a full
+copy of all the notes, by a mistake they had only portions of both sets.
+In addition to the difficulty of the forbidding Catastrophe Rapid there
+was a possibility of an attack on us by the Shewits. Jacob through one
+of his Pai Ute friends had information that they were preparing to lay
+an ambush, and he sent warning to that effect. Jacob knew the natives
+too well to have given us this notice unless he thought it a real
+danger, but we did not allow it much consideration at the time. Yet it
+would have been an easy matter for the Shewits to secrete themselves
+where they could fall upon us in the night when we were used up by
+working through some bad rapid, and then, hiding the goods, throw our
+bodies into the river and burn the boats, or even turn them loose, thus
+leaving no proof of their action, our disappearance naturally being laid
+to destruction by the river, a termination generally anticipated. I have
+sometimes thought that when they killed the Howlands and Dunn they did
+it deliberately to get their guns and clothes, thinking it would not be
+found out, or at least that they could put forth a good excuse, as they
+did.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+At a Rapid--Low Water.]
+
+We were in the field to accomplish certain work and not to perform a
+spectacular feat, and the Major and Prof. having decided that the
+descent of the remainder of the canyon, considering all the
+circumstances, was for us impracticable and unnecessary, we prepared to
+leave for Kanab. We unpacked the good old boats rather reluctantly. They
+had come to possess a personality as such inanimate objects will, having
+been our faithful companions and our reliance for many a hundred
+difficult miles, and it seemed like desertion to abandon them so
+carelessly to destruction. We ought to have had a funeral pyre. The
+flags of the boats, which Mrs. Thompson had made and which had been
+carried in them the entire way, were still to be disposed of, and that
+of the _Dean_ was generously voted to me by the Major, Jack, and Jones,
+who had crew claims to it; that of the _Nellie Powell_ was awarded to
+Steward; while Clem received the _Canonita's_. I tried to persuade the
+Major to pack the _Dean_ out in sections and send her east to be kept as
+a souvenir of the voyage, but he would not then listen to it, though
+years later he admitted that he regretted not taking my suggestion.
+Three years afterward I came back to this place with my own party and
+would then have executed my desire, but no trace of our former outfit
+remained except a hatch from one of the middle cabins, and the Major's
+chair. The latter I carried to Salt Lake, where I presented it to Cap,
+who was living there.
+
+As before mentioned, the Colorado was so extremely high that the water
+backed up into the Kanab Canyon, and it was there that we left the
+boats, each tied to an oar stuck in the ground.[36] We could not get all
+the goods on the horses of the pack-train, and left a portion to be
+brought out later. Jack and Clem remained to make photographs, and
+taking a last look at the boats, with a good-bye to all, we turned our
+faces up the narrow chasm of the Kanab. A small stream ran in the
+bottom, and this formed large pools amongst numerous ponderous boulders
+that had fallen in from the top of the walls some three thousand feet
+above our heads, the bottom being hardly more than sixty to seventy-five
+feet wide. It was with considerable difficulty that we got the animals
+past some of these places, and in one or two the pools were so long and
+deep they had to swim a little. The prospectors the year before had
+worked a trail to some extent, but here, where the floods ran high at
+times, changes occurred frequently. By five o'clock we had gone about
+eight miles up this slow, rough way, and arrived at a singular spring,
+where we went into camp. This we called Shower-Bath Spring. The water
+charged with lime had built out from the wall a semi-circular mass
+covered by ferns, which was cut away below by the floods till one could
+walk under in the sprinkling streams percolating through it. It was a
+very pretty place, but like all of its kind in the deep gorges it was a
+favourite resort for tarantulas, many of which we had seen in the depths
+of the Grand Canyon. These, with scorpions, rattlesnakes, and
+Gila-monsters, were the poisonous reptiles of the gorge.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+B. Preliminary map of a portion of the southern part of the unknown
+country indicated by the blank space on Map A at page 95, showing the
+Hurricane Ledge, Uinkaret and Shewits Mountains, and the course of the
+Grand Canyon from the mouth of Kanab Canyon to the Grand Wash. The
+Howlands and Dunn left the first expedition at Catastrophe Rapid, at the
+sharp bend a few miles below the intersection of the river and longitude
+113 deg. 30', climbed out to the north, and were killed near Mt.
+Dellenbaugh.]
+
+The next morning, Tuesday, the 10th of September, our pack-train was
+early on the way. The walls grew somewhat lower, though still two
+thousand feet high, and the canyon was usually seventy-five to one
+hundred feet wide at the bottom. There were patches of alluvial deposit
+now along the sides of the watercourse, covered by fields of cactus
+loaded with "apples," the prickly leaves compelling us to keep the trail
+the prospectors had made by their passage to and from the ephemeral
+Eldorado. After a time we emerged from the lower canyon into a wider one
+in the way previously described; that is, like going from one floor to
+another by an incline between narrow walls. The little stream having
+vanished, a pool of rain-water helped us out for dinner, and while it
+was preparing Prof. and I climbed up to secure notes on the topography.
+A trifle before sunset we arrived at the cedar tree, a short distance
+below the mouth of the Shinumo Canyon, where our party had camped the
+previous March. The pockets were full of clear, fresh water, and we had
+plenty for horses as well as men. Not far off some human bones were
+found, old and bleached. We thought they must be the remains of one of
+the Navajo raiders who escaped wounded from the Mormon attack near this
+locality. The canyon bottom was quite wide at this point and
+comparatively level, covered by rushes and grass, and the horses were
+able to get a good meal.
+
+During the day every time I dismounted to take compass bearings on the
+trail I felt a sharp, peculiar pain shoot up my right leg from in front
+about half-way between ankle and knee. I could only discover a small red
+spot at the initial point, and concluded that I must have struck a sharp
+rock or cactus spine. Our party now again divided, the Major and Jones
+going up Shinumo Canyon to the Kaibab region, while Prof. and I rode on
+up the Kanab Canyon, starting at eight o'clock in the morning,
+Wednesday, September 11th, and riding steadily all day. As we had not
+expected to come out in this way saddles were scarce. Prof. and the
+Major had two of the three used by the packers, while the third was
+awarded to Jones, who was to have a long ride on the Kaibab trip. The
+rest of us had to make shift as we could, and I rigged up a "sawbuck"
+pack-saddle, with rope loops for stirrups and a blanket across it to sit
+on. This was not much better than, or as good perhaps as, bareback, and
+the horse was a very hard trotter. We wished to reach Kanab that night.
+We kept on at as rapid a gait as the canyon would permit, though it was
+easier than in March, when the numerous miners had not yet broken a way
+by their ingress and egress in search of the fabulous gold that was
+supposed to exist somewhere in the inaccessibility of the great chasm.
+The harder a locality is to arrive at the bigger the stories of its
+wealth, while often in the attempts to reach it the prospector treads
+heedlessly ground that holds fortunes up to his very eyes. We continued
+straight up Kanab Canyon, the walls running lower and lower, till there
+was nothing but rounded hills. Then we emerged on the summit, which was
+a valley bottom, about twenty miles from Kanab. Shortly after dark we
+halted for a bite to eat and a brief rest before striking for our old
+storehouse, a log cabin in Jacob's corral, where we arrived about eleven
+o'clock, having made about forty miles. I collected all the blankets I
+could find, and, throwing them on the inside of Jacob's garden fence, I
+was almost immediately asleep, and knew nothing till Jacob came along
+and said a "Good-morning." My ablutions over, I went to Sister Louisa's
+to breakfast with Prof. and Mrs. Thompson. The gardens were now
+yielding an abundance of fresh fruits, peaches, melons, etc., and I
+blessed the good management and foresight that directed the immediate
+planting of these things in a Mormon settlement. It seemed as if I could
+not get my fill.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+C. Preliminary map of a portion of the central part of the unknown
+country indicated by the blank space on Map A at page 95, showing the
+Kaibab Plateau, mouth of the Paria, Echo Peaks, House Rock Valley, and
+the course of part of Glen Canyon and of Marble Canyon and the Grand
+Canyon to the mouth of the Kanab Canyon. El Vado is at the western
+intersection of the 37th parallel and the Colorado River, and Kanab is
+in the upper left-hand corner of the map--just above the 37th parallel
+which is the boundary between Utah and Arizona. The words "Old Spanish
+Trail from Santa Fe to Los Angeles" near El Vado were added in
+Washington and are incorrect. The old Spanish trail crossed at Gunnison
+Crossing far north of this point, which was barely known before 1858.]
+
+Friday the 13th, the next day, was my birthday and Mrs. Thompson, who
+was always striving to do something to make our circumstances pleasant,
+prepared a large peach pie with her own hands in celebration. The Major
+and Jones having come in the night before, we passed most of the time
+that day in a large tent eating melons, the Major acting as carver of
+the fruit. When we had eaten a watermelon he would declare that he
+thought muskmelon far better. We all agreed. He would cut one only to
+find when we had eaten it that we had changed our minds and wanted
+watermelon, which see-saw opinions we kept up till all the melons were
+gone. It would be impossible for any one who had not had our canyon fare
+to appreciate the exhilarating effect of this fresh fruit.
+
+My leg, which had developed the pain coming up the Kanab Canyon, now
+swelled till it was almost the same size throughout and any pressure
+made an imprint as in a piece of putty. No one knew what to make of it.
+I rode over to Johnson's, that person being the nearest to a doctor of
+any one in the country, though the Mormons do not much believe in
+medicines, and he gave me a liniment to apply. This did no good. In a
+few days the swelling disappeared except where the spot of keen pain
+was, and there a lump was left half as large as a man's fist, with two
+small red spots in the middle of it. I now concluded that these spots
+marked the bite of a tarantula that must have gotten in my blankets at
+Shower-Bath Spring. Suppuration set in at the spots where the flesh
+turned black and all the men said it was a bad-looking wound. They
+thought I would lose my leg. I concluded to poultice it to draw out any
+poison that remained, and kept bread-and-milk applied continuously.
+After a while it seemed to have a tendency to heal.
+
+We ran the base line up through Kanab and at the head of it pitched a
+small observatory tent over a stone foundation on which Prof, set up a
+large transit instrument for stellar observations. He got in connection,
+by the telegraph, with Salt Lake City and made a series of close
+observations. I began an hourly set of barometrical readings and as soon
+as Clem came back he helped me to run them day and night for eight
+consecutive days. Jack meanwhile was preparing for a trip to the Moki
+Towns, the Major and Jones had gone off for some special work, and Andy
+started with a waggon for Beaver to bring down rations. Occasional bands
+of trading Navajos enlivened the days and I secured five good blankets
+in exchange for old Yawger, who was now about useless for our purposes.
+Prof. gave him to me to get what I could for him, and he also gave Clem
+another derelict for the same purpose. On the 9th of October Jack, Andy,
+and Clem, started with Jacob on his annual trip to the Mokis by way of
+Lee's Lonely Dell while Jones went north to Long Valley on the head of
+the Virgin, for topography. The Major on foot, with a Mormon companion
+and a Pai Ute, explored from Long Valley down the narrow canyon of the
+Virgin to Shunesburg, about 20 miles, a trip never before made.[37] The
+canyon is about two thousand feet deep and in places only twenty or
+thirty feet wide, twisting in such a way that the sky was not visible at
+times, and the stream often filled it from side to side so that they had
+to swim.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+At the Bottom near Foot of Bass Trail.]
+
+About eleven o'clock that night Prof. came to wake me up to say that a
+telegram had arrived stating that Najavos again had been raiding and had
+stolen seventy head of horses from Parowan. They were supposed to be
+making for El Vado and nobody in the absence of Jacob seemed to know
+just what to do about it. Prof. had advised them to organise a party and
+cut off the raiders, but they preferred to consult Jacob before doing
+anything. Prof. now asked me if I would be willing to ride at once to
+the Navajo Well where Jacob had expected to camp and notify him of the
+raid, no one else in town understanding where the well was, few besides
+ourselves and Jacob ever having travelled that way. I said I would go if
+I could have one companion. It was a lonely journey, and besides I might
+come on the Navajos before reaching the well. Charley Riggs, a splendid
+fellow whom I liked exceedingly, volunteered. Filling our overcoat
+pockets with cartridges, and each with a good Winchester across his
+saddle, we started about 12:30 under a fine moon and a clear sky. I knew
+the way perfectly, even by moonlight. We took no wrong turns, had no
+stops, and made excellent time toward the Navajo Well twenty miles away.
+On we went over the open country, skirting the Vermilion Cliffs on our
+left.
+
+    "Neck by neck, stride by stride, never changing our place,"
+
+but not at the headlong gallop by which they brought the news over a
+first-class road to Aix, we rode steadily as fast as the ground would
+permit, sometimes on a gallop, sometimes on a trot. About two o'clock,
+as we neared a canyon where an old trail came down from the north which
+the raiders might follow, we slowed up and advanced with caution. Dimly
+we perceived what appeared to be a number of sleeping forms under the
+ordinary Navajo dark-blue and white striped service blanket. Throwing
+our guns up ready for action we rode ahead slowly to pass by a detour if
+not discovered. We then saw that the objects were nothing but peculiar
+bushes. With a feeling of sympathy for the dear Knight of La Mancha and
+his worthy Sancho we spurred forward. At half-past four by the watch
+dawn began to spread on the sky and we rode into the camp at the Navajo
+Well. A shout and our hoofbeats had roused the sleepers. I delivered my
+message to Jacob who immediately started for El Vado with Charley Riggs,
+intending to add several more men to his band at the Paria settlement
+which he would pass through; a route he had often before followed for a
+like purpose. My leg was by no means well and it would have been
+imprudent on this account for me to further lend my services. I let
+Jacob have my rifle and ammunition and returned to Kanab, Jack, Andy,
+and Clem going on to Lee's to wait. I reached the settlement before
+noon, when George Adair and Tom Stewart started heavily armed to join
+Jacob at the earliest moment. A Pai Ute later came in with a report that
+a fresh party of Navajos on a trading trip had recently come across the
+Colorado, and from this we concluded that the alarm was false, or that
+the culprits were Utes who went off into the Dirty Devil country. Prof.
+with Adams went out towards the Paria and then to the Kaibab to do some
+topographic work along the north rim of the Grand Canyon and I was left
+without any of our party in the village, it being deemed inadvisable for
+me to do much riding or walking till my wound, which was now doing well,
+had more nearly healed. I devoted my time to plotting up notes,
+finishing sketches, drawings of pictographs, etc., and took my meals at
+Sister Louisa's. I became much interested in the story of her
+experiences which she told us from time to time, especially as she was
+one of the women who had pushed a handcart across the plains. After a
+few days the Major came in from a trip accompanied by several Pai Utes,
+among whom was Chuarooumpeak, the young chief of the Kaibab band,
+usually called Frank by the settlers and Chuar by his own people. The
+Pai Utes having no "F" in their language pronounced his English name
+"Brank," just as they called me "Bred." Their usual name for me was
+Untokarowits, derived from the dark red colour of my hair. Frank was a
+remarkably good man. He had been constantly devoted to the safety and
+welfare of the whites. A most fluent speaker in his native tongue, he
+would address his people with long flights of uninterrupted rhetorical
+skill.
+
+Old Patnish came in occasionally. Though he did not look particularly
+dangerous his eye was keen and his bearing positive. Nobody would have
+interfered with him unless prepared for a fight to the finish. One day I
+rode to Johnson by the trail and learned when I got back that Patnish
+had arrived at Kanab by the road, so I just missed an interview. The
+term "old" Patnish signifies "that scoundrel" Patnish, but when the
+people spoke of "old" Jacob the prefix was one of respect and
+affection--so contrary is the meaning that can be put into three
+letters. Charley Riggs and George Adair came back from El Vado saying
+that no raiding Navajos had been seen, so our opinion of the false alarm
+was confirmed.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+E. Showing results of recent re-survey of part of the Grand Canyon near
+Bright Angel Creek by the Geological Survey with ample time for detail.
+Compare with Map C at page 246, the south end of Kaibab Plateau.]
+
+On the 27th of October we had the first snow of the season, which lasted
+only a few hours, snow never being heavy at Kanab. The Major had planned
+another journey to the Uinkaret region and we started November 2d,
+taking with us three of the Kaibab band--Chuar, another called George,
+or, as they pronounced it, "Judge," and Waytoots; the Major desiring to
+talk to them in our camps to continue his vocabulary and the collection
+of other linguistic material which he had been gathering from them and
+others in and around Kanab at every opportunity. Our party proceeded to
+Pipe Spring, camping half a mile below the houses and striking the next
+day, Monday, November 4th, for the Wild Band Pocket. Finding no water
+there the natives led on toward a spring they knew of in a low line of
+cliffs. I was riding a broncho broken only a few weeks before, and at an
+unexpected moment I was suddenly deemed _persona non grata_, but I kept
+my seat and vanquished the beast after a vigorous circus, meeting
+thereafter with no further opposition. We saw a band of twenty wild
+horses spinning across the plain one behind another like a train of
+railway cars, a huge stallion playing locomotive. Perhaps my broncho
+felt the call of the band! Darkness dropped down on us before we could
+get to the spring. We had to make a camp that was not exactly dry,
+though there was no drinking water, for a drizzling rain, half snow, set
+in, the snow serving to hold the accompanying rain on the surface. We
+were wading in slush and it was a task to find a decent place for one's
+blankets. Jones and I bunked together. His side of the bed was a slight
+hollow, in consequence of which the melting slush formed under him a
+chilly pool that interfered seriously with his slumbers. I happened to
+be lying on a lump or ridge and kept fairly dry by never stirring the
+whole night.
+
+The rain ceased by morning and all day Tuesday we travelled toward the
+Uinkaret Mountains over a comparatively level desert, but not going
+rapidly, as we had a waggon. The ground having been softened by the rain
+the wheels cut deeply, there being of course no road. A flock of
+antelope blew by. We did not give them a second glance, as they were too
+far off to be hunted. It was after dark when we arrived at the rocky
+pool where we had before camped in March, which we learned now from
+Chuar the natives called the Innupin (or Oonupin) Picavu, or Witch
+Water-pocket. They said the locality was a favourite haunt of witches.
+These were often troublesome and had to be driven away or they might
+hurt one. There was plenty of wood and we were soon comfortable, with a
+keen November wind to emphasise our blessings. The water in the pocket
+was clear and pure, but it was full of small "wigglers." We tried to dip
+up a pail which should be free from them. The Major, seeing our efforts,
+took a cup and without looking drank it down with the nonchalant remark,
+"I haven't seen any wigglers." The Pai Utes had killed some rabbits,
+which they now skinned and cooked. I say cooked, but perhaps I should
+say warmed. Dexterously stripping off the skins they slit open the
+abdomen, removed the entrails, and, after squeezing out the contents by
+drawing between thumb and fingers, they replaced the interminable string
+in the cavity, closing the aperture with the ears, and stowed the
+carcass in the hot ashes for a few minutes. Then they ate the whole
+thing with complete satisfaction. We preferred to fry ours, without the
+entrails, in a pan with bacon fat. Frequently the Major gave me little
+talks on science, as he was much interested in my future career, and by
+the fire this evening he instructed me in some of the fundamental
+principles of natural philosophy. Chuar having had one of his men remove
+his shoes, which were heavy "Mericats" ones, was reclining in a princely
+way smoking a cigarette on a bank near the fire. Suddenly he rose to his
+feet, intently listening and peering anxiously out through the
+enveloping gloom of the pinons and cedars. I asked him what he heard.
+"Oonupits," he whispered solemnly, never ceasing his watchful gaze. Then
+cautiously aiming his long muzzle-loading rifle in the direction, he
+fired a shot and seemed satisfied that the intruder was driven away or
+destroyed. He described the noise of the Oonupits as a whistling sound.
+He and his men had a habit of waking in the night in our various camps
+and singing, first one beginning very low, the others joining in one by
+one, and increasing the power as they did so till all were singing in
+full voice. This woke us up. We threw things at them, but with no
+effect. "What do you do it for?" said I to Chuar. "To drive away the
+Oonupits," he answered.[38]
+
+In the morning, November 6th, the Major, Prof. and I went off
+reconnoitring and did not get back to camp till after dark, when we
+found there a short, fat, Uinkaret whom Chuar introduced as
+Teemaroomtekai, chief. In the settlements when he ventured to go there
+he was known as Watermelon, according to Frank Hamblin, who was with us.
+Teemaroomtekai had a companion and next day Prof. and the Major climbed
+Mt. Trumbull with them. Wishing to have a talk with the Shewits we moved
+on the 9th around to Oak Spring, near which some of them were encamped
+with their kinsmen the Uinkarets. I was interested to see what the
+slayers of the Howlands and Dunn looked like. Except for a wilder, more
+defiant aspect, they differed little from other Pai Utes. Their country
+being so isolated and unvisited they were surly and independent. The
+Uinkarets on the other hand were rather genial, more like the Kaivavit
+band. The Major traded for bags of food seeds, baskets, spoons made from
+mountain sheep's horns, balls of compressed cactus fruit from which the
+juice had been extracted for a kind of wine, rolls of oose-apple pulp,
+which they ate like bread, etc., all for the Smithsonian Institution.
+
+With the Shewits the Major and Prof. had a conference. Prof. wished to
+make a reconnaissance through their region and explained to them what he
+wanted to do. An agreement was reached by which he was to be permitted
+without molestation of any kind to go anywhere and everywhere with two
+Shewits for guides and one of our party as cook and helper, in order
+that he could tell "Washington" about the country. The helper, however,
+was to stick to the trail and remain in camp, so that he would know as
+little as possible, and should not tell that little to the "Mormoni"
+whom the Shewits disliked. Nathan Adams, a Mormon, was the man to
+accompany Prof. and he did not enjoy the prospect at all. On Monday,
+November 11th, the Major, Prof., and Jones climbed Mount Logan for more
+data and took a general survey of the country, while I went out on foot,
+climbed, measured and located eight large cinder-cones. When they came
+down the Major said he had seen a fine, isolated mountain to the west
+which he had called after me, and I naturally felt much pleased with the
+honour of having my name stamped on the map.
+
+The next day, November 12th, our party divided into three. Frank Hamblin
+went out to St. George with the waggon after rations; Prof. with Nathan
+Adams, one Shewits, named Paantung, and our guide "Judge," who may have
+been a Shewits also for all we could tell, prepared for the entrance
+into Shewits land, while the Major, Jones, and I proceeded to the foot
+of the Toroweap, to a water-pocket near the edge of the Grand Canyon
+called by the Uinkarets Teram Picavu. Chuar and Waytoots went back to
+Kanab and we hired Uinkarets to carry our goods nine miles down to the
+pocket, descending 1200 feet at one point over rough lava. After some
+work at the canyon we went back to the spring on the 14th, the Uinkarets
+again acting as our pack-horses. We had no salt left by this time and
+very little food, but we killed some rabbits and cooked them on hot
+coals, the adhering ashes making a substitute for salt. I reached the
+spring first and found little, round, beaming, Teemaroomtekai, who knew
+our plans, already there with a great big "Mericats" fire to welcome us,
+as well as a large pile of wood for feeding it. The Major got in soon
+after, but Jones failed to come at all, which worried us. Before we
+could go in search of him in the morning he arrived. His horse had given
+out, compelling him to stay where he was all night. We had travelled
+hard up and down all kinds of hills, canyons, and mountains, with seldom
+a trail, and it was wearing on the animals living only on bunch grass.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+From North Side near Foot of Toroweap Valley, Uinkaret District.
+
+Photograph by J. K. Hillers.]
+
+I continued measuring and locating the oonagaritchets or cinder-cones,
+of which there were more than sixty, and got in four more on the 15th.
+Then the Major decided to move to another water-pocket the Uinkarets
+told about, farther east across the lava, a pocket they called Tiravu
+Picavu or Pocket-of-the-Plain. It was on the edge of the basaltic table
+overlooking what they termed the Wonsits Tiravu or Antelope Plain. They
+said there was no water now, but as one declared there was a little we
+decided to go. While the Major followed a waggon-track leading to or
+from St. George, wishing to make some special observations along it and
+expecting to meet and stop Frank with the waggon now due, Jones and I
+struck across on the moccasin trail, leaving our goods to be brought on
+by the Uinkaret packers. At sunset we rounded a clump of cinder-cones
+studding a black, barren waste. Far away across the Wonsits Tiravu rose
+the red cliff land up and up to the eastern sky; behind was the great
+bulk of Trumbull, together with scores of the smooth, verdureless heaps
+of volcanic cinders. Everywhere near was the desert of basalt, with
+nothing but the faint trail to point the way and the night slowly
+enwrapping us. On we urged our stumbling, weary beasts, their iron
+clinking on the metallic rocks; on till the thick blackness circled us
+like a wall. Then we halted and built a little brush fire, thinking to
+stay till dawn. At the instant a weird cry from far back fell leaden on
+the strangely heavy winter air. Our packers saw where we were and
+presently came to us. They were in a rage, pitching along in the dark
+under their heavy loads. They were cold, tired, famished, for the way
+had been long, the packs heavy. Frost was in the wind. They now
+pretended not to know where the end was. I thought this was to see what
+we would say or do. We did not care; we said and did nothing with all
+the nonchalance born of the feeling that the further we went the worse
+it was. Then one remembered. The pocket was near and he struck out for
+it, the rest following as best we could through the thick night, the
+guide occasionally lighting a torch of grass. After a quarter of a mile
+he stopped in the bottom of a deep basaltic gulch. Here was the place.
+The Uinkarets threw down their loads and squatted glum and silent. From
+the hill Jones and I scraped together an armful of brush and got a small
+fire started in the bottom of the desolate hollow. At the upper end of
+it on a sort of bench eight feet wide was a depression covered with ice
+three or four inches thick. With some difficulty pounding a hole through
+this we found beneath a small amount of thick, slimy water, full of
+green scum. We drank some, the Uinkarets drank some, but we could not
+see well enough to get any out for the animals. We tied them to rocks to
+prevent them from leaving in the night. The Indians thawed a little
+under the influence of the fire, but they would barely speak when spoken
+to. They skinned a wildcat they had killed on the way and boiled the red
+meat briefly in our kettle and ate it like hungry wolves, while Jones
+and I, all the time wondering what had become of the Major, made a light
+lunch on some of our scanty supply. Then we climbed the hill, and
+getting together a little more brush Jones sat keeping a signal fire
+going as long as he had fuel. But the wind was keen and strong, wood
+limited, and he gave it up. Spreading our blankets we went to sleep.
+Morning came clear and sharp. I took my glasses and went up to scan the
+country for some sign of the Major or our waggon and I rejoiced to
+discover him not a quarter of a mile distant. He had headed for the
+fire, and losing it kept on by a star till he thought he was near us,
+when he made a small fire of his own, tied his mule, and waited for day.
+We had a bite together and thawed out some of the ice in our kettle,
+providing a diminutive drink for each horse; then leaving the natives in
+charge of the baggage we rode down into the plain to find our waggon,
+taking along our last bit of bread for lunch. In about ten miles we came
+to it and Frank Hamblin gave us the latest news, "Grant elected and
+Boston burned." After a lunch we turned back, making a camp at the foot
+of the basalt, thawing out more ice for the animals, and giving the
+Indians some food. About two o'clock the Major and I rode over to the
+Innupin Picavu while Jones and the waggon went around, as it could not
+cross the basalt. We arrived at seven, while the waggon did not come
+till half past eleven, when we prepared a good supper for all hands,
+turning in about three in the morning. Not a man awoke before ten,
+though the strong sun fell on our faces. The animals were used up and we
+did what we could on foot that day. I climbed four more cinder-cones,
+reaching camp at dark. Every day I climbed several of the cones, but
+some were so far away that I had to make a special camp from which to
+operate. The waggon was loaded with ice from the water-pocket, and a
+supply of provisions, and driven about seven miles to a basaltic gulch,
+in a well-wooded locality on the edge of a treeless valley, where the
+load was dropped and I was left with my horse. Before dark I gathered a
+lot of wood, made a good fire, and melted some of the ice that formed my
+water supply, in a brass kettle, watering my horse, which I then
+tethered with a long rope where there was good grass. I did not intend
+to waste time hunting my mount in the morning. After supper I spread my
+blankets near the fire and by the light of a bright pinon blaze I began
+to read _Great Expectations_, a paper edition with the last leaves gone
+having gotten into camp. As I read Pip's interview in the twilight with
+the convict on the dreary marshes I was in deep sympathy with the
+desperate hunger of the terrible man, and when Mrs. Joe buttered the end
+of the loaf and carved off the slices I myself was hungry enough to cook
+supper over again. Butter had now been absent from my bill of fare, with
+a few exceptions, for nearly two years. I was careful to place my fire
+where it would be well screened and not easily seen from a distance. I
+did not care to have any Shewits or even Uinkarets visit me and I hoped
+they were all in their own camps, though I sometimes had a feeling that
+one might be watching from the shadows of the great basaltic rocks.
+This, of course, was due to the circumstances and not to any
+probability, though I kept my Winchester near my hand. When I again got
+back to the main camp the Major told me that the first night of my
+absence several of the natives came in and, not seeing me around,
+inquired my whereabouts. He gave them an evasive answer, believing that
+it was quite as well not to apprise them of the situation.
+
+The following day, Thursday, November 21st, I covered a wide territory,
+climbing five cinder-cones a great distance apart and each quite high.
+Several times I crossed recent moccasin tracks, but met no natives, and
+at nightfall I was still a long way from my camp. When the darkness
+became so dense that I could not see even faint outlines I took a star
+for guidance till clouds blotted it out. Then I was completely adrift in
+a sea of mountains. I could not tell one direction from another.
+Throwing the reins on the broncho's neck I sat back in my saddle to see
+what would come of it. Slowly, cautiously the animal plodded over
+broken, rocky ground succeeded by smoother footing, as I could tell by
+the motion, and in about an hour suddenly and quietly halted. I
+perceived that I was in the midst of cedars. A light spot appeared
+almost beneath. Dismounting I dropped to my hands and knees and found
+that it was the ashes of my fire. The broncho, the same that had tried
+to buck me off a few days before, had come back to the camp of a single
+night, about the best example of horse sense that I ever experienced.
+After another comfortable evening with Dickens I was prepared to go on
+with my special task, and finished it in this place by climbing the
+group of cones near the Tiravu Picavu the next day. About two in the
+afternoon I got back to my camp with a very tired mount, but I loaded
+all my traps on my saddle, the ice being almost exhausted, and started
+to find a new locality where I was to meet the Major. My pack was high,
+my broncho tired. While crossing a small open valley near sunset the
+poor beast suddenly lay down with me. There being no water anywhere in
+that locality, I was forced to use some brutality to get the animal up.
+Without further incident I came to the place agreed on and found the
+Major there in advance. We camped at the spot and the next day,
+Saturday, November 23d, I climbed five more cones, reaching the camp at
+sunset. Sunday the Major went on with his particular task while I added
+six more of the cones to my list, getting back to the side camp late in
+the day. The Major was to go in by himself when he was ready, so I took
+all the outfit on my horse again, reached the Oak Spring trail at
+sunset, and the main camp two hours after dark, glad enough to drop the
+load of pails, bags, blankets, etc., in which my broncho sympathised
+more deeply than could be expressed.
+
+[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
+
+Storm Effect from South Rim.]
+
+Monday morning, November 25th, we turned our faces toward Kanab, and I
+climbed four more cones on the way out, overtaking the waggon about an
+hour after dark. The night was very cold and I was ready to enjoy the
+warmth of a fire by the time I reached the camp. In the morning we had a
+visit from Lieutenant Dinwiddie of Lieut. Wheeler's survey. I rode over
+to the cinder-cone region again and climbed the remaining ones, seven or
+eight, reaching camp after dark, the days being very short at this time
+of year. The camp had been moved nearer to the spring in the low line of
+cliffs where we had halted coming out and the Major with his usual
+original ideas had caused the waggon to be lowered by ropes into a deep
+gulch. He had estimated that it was possible to go out through the
+cliffs that way instead of going all the way around. His geological
+knowledge did not lead him astray. There was no trouble whatever in
+taking the waggon up the gulch, and when we emerged we were many miles
+on the road to Pipe Spring, where the Major and I arrived in advance of
+the others. We had dinner and he then went on alone to Kanab, where the
+whole party arrived the next day--Thanksgiving Day. Prof. had come in on
+the 25th by way of St. George, having had a successful tour through the
+Shewits region, all agreements on both sides having been carried out to
+the letter. He had been two weeks in the wild country and Adams declared
+that to him the time was years, his only comfort being that he was
+wearing his "endowment garment," a sure protection from all evil. Prof.
+had climbed Mount Dellenbaugh, though the Shewits objected to Adams's
+going up and he remained on the trail. It was found to be a basaltic
+peak 6650 feet above sea-level, but only 1200 or 1500 above its base. On
+the summit were the ruins of a Shinumo building circular in shape,
+twenty feet in diameter, with walls remaining about two feet high. It
+was not far from the base of this mountain that the Howlands and Dunn
+were killed, Paantung, Prof.'s guide, saying it was done by some "no
+sense" Shewits. Prof. was of the opinion that the guide had been of the
+party himself.
+
+All was preparation in our camp for the departure of the Major for Salt
+Lake and Washington. I had expected to go east at this time also, but
+both the Major and Prof. being desirous of having me remain a while
+longer, to help finish up the preliminary map, I agreed to do so and on
+the 30th of November all the original party set out but Prof., Mrs.
+Thompson, and myself. A new member, John Renshawe, had arrived a few
+days before to assist at the topography. When the party had been gone
+some time it was discovered that they had forgotten several things. I
+took a horse and rode over with the articles to the camp they intended
+to make at Johnson, where I remained till morning. The Major was so
+eager to get an early start that he had all hands up long before
+sunrise. When breakfast was eaten we had to sit by the fire three
+quarters of an hour before there was light enough for the men to trail
+the horses. Then I said good-bye; they went on and I went back. Jones
+and Andy I never saw again.
+
+Prof. concluded to make winter headquarters in Kanab and a lot was
+rented for the purpose. On December 3d, we put up a large tent in one
+corner, with two small ones for rations and saddles. The next day we put
+up one in the other corner for Prof. and Mrs. Thompson, and at the back
+of the lot we arranged a corral for the horses or mules we might want to
+catch. The large tents were floored with pine boards and along the sides
+heavy cedar boughs were placed in crotches around which the guy ropes
+were passed before staking. The tents thus were dry inside and could not
+blow down. A conical iron stove on a boxing of earth heated the large
+tent like a furnace. In the middle of the general tent we placed a long
+drafting-table and were ready for work. Another tent, half boards, was
+erected near ours for kitchen and dining-room, and Riley, who had turned
+up again, hired as cook and master of this structure. Riley, who had
+spent his whole life in camp and saddle, was the best frontier or camp
+cook I ever saw. Scrupulously clean to the last detail of his pots and
+pans, he knew how to make to perfection all manner of eatables possible
+under the circumstances. Prof. arranged for a supply of potatoes,
+butter, meats, and everything within reason, so we lived very well, with
+an occasional dash of Dixie wine to add zest, while on Christmas Day
+Riley prepared a special feast. Though the sky was sombre the town was
+merry and there was a dance in the school-house, but I did not attend.
+Rainy weather set in on the 26th, and the old year welcomed the new in a
+steady downpour, making January 1, 1873, rather a dismal holiday. Even
+the mail which arrived this day was soaked. Toward evening the skies
+lifted somewhat and a four-horse waggon appeared, or rather two mules
+and two horses on a common freighting waggon, in which Lyman Hamblin and
+two others were playing, as nearly in unison as possible, a fiddle, a
+drum, and a fife. While we were admiring this feat we heard Jack's
+hearty shout and saw our waggon returning under his charge from Salt
+Lake with supplies, with a cook stove for our kitchen, and with a new
+suit of clothes for me accompanied by the compliments of Prof. and the
+Major.
+
+Our camp in Kanab was now as complete and comfortable as any one might
+wish, and our work of preparing the map went forward rapidly. As soon as
+it could be finished I was to take it to Salt Lake, and send it by
+express to the Major in Washington, to show Congress what we had been
+doing and what a remarkable region it was that we had been
+investigating. In the evenings we visited our friends in the settlement
+or they visited us, or we read what books, papers, and magazines we
+could get hold of. John and I also amused ourselves by writing down all
+the songs that were sung around camp, to which I added a composition of
+my own to the tune of _Farewell to the Star Spangled Banner_, an
+abandoned rebel one. These words ran:
+
+    Oh, boys, you remember the wild Colorado,
+      Its rapids and its rocks will trouble us no more,
+
+etc., with a mention in the various stanzas of each member of the party
+and his characteristics. The horses became high-spirited with nothing to
+do and plenty of good feed. One of our amusements was to corral several,
+and then, putting saddles on the most prancing specimens, mount and ride
+down on the plain, the horse running at top speed, with the impression
+that he was full master of the situation and expecting us to try to stop
+him. Instead we enjoyed the exhilaration of it, and let the charger
+alone till after a couple of miles he concluded the fun was all on our
+side and took a more moderate gait of his own accord. There were several
+horse races also, and the days flew by. On February 3d I finished
+plotting the river down to the Kanab Canyon, and as if to emphasise this
+point a snow-storm set in. By the 5th the snow was five inches deep, and
+we had word that the snow on the divide to the north over the
+culmination of the various lines of cliffs, where I would have to pass
+to go to Salt Lake, was very heavy. On the 7th the mail rider failed to
+get through. We learned also that an epizooetic had come to Utah and many
+horses were laid up by it, crippling the stage lines. It had been
+planned that I should go north with our own horses till I could connect
+with some stage line, and then take that for the remainder of the
+distance to the Utah Southern Railway, which then had been extended
+south from Salt Lake as far as Lehi.
+
+On the 16th of February, which was Sunday, I put the last touches on the
+map, drawn from the original on a large sheet of tracing cloth, rolled
+it carefully up, and placed it in a long tin tube we had ordered from
+the local tinsmith. This I carried on my back, as I did not mean to be
+separated from it a minute till I gave it into the hands of Wells, Fargo
+& Co.'s express in Salt Lake. Jack was to go with me. Saying a last
+good-bye to Prof. and Mrs. Thompson, to John, and to some of my Kanab
+friends who came to see the start, we left a little after noon, with one
+pack on a broncho mule, Jack riding a mule and I a favourite horse of
+mine called by the unusual name of Billy. The pack-mule always had to be
+blindfolded before we could handle him, and if the blind should
+accidentally slip off there was an instantaneous convulsion which had a
+most disrupting effect. Going straight up the canyon, we crossed over
+finally into Long Valley, and were on the headwaters of the Virgin. At
+sunset we came to a little settlement called Mt. Carmel, but continued
+to Glendale, where we arrived about half-past seven, having come in all
+thirty miles. At the bishop's house we were welcomed and there got some
+supper, putting our three animals in his corral. We did not care to
+sleep in the house, choosing for our resting-place the last remains of a
+haystack, where we spread our blankets, covering the whole with a
+paulin, as the sky looked threatening. I never slept more comfortably in
+my life, except that I was half-aroused in the stillness by water
+trickling down my neck. Half-asleep we pulled the canvas clear up over
+our heads and were troubled no more. When we awoke in the morning a
+heaviness on top of us we knew meant snow. We were covered by a full
+foot of it, soft and dry. Valley, mountain, everything was a solid
+expanse of white, the only dark spot being our red blankets as we threw
+back the paulin. The sky was grey and sullen. More snow was in the air.
+As soon as breakfast was eaten we slung our pack, saddled, and rode up
+the valley, following as well as we could the directions given by the
+bishop. Neither Jack nor I had been this way before. We could see the
+slight depression in the surface of the snow which indicated a
+waggon-rut beneath, and by that token continued up the ever-narrowing
+valley; the slopes sprinkled by large pine trees. Snow fell thickly. It
+was not always easy to see our way, but we went on. At a certain point
+we were to turn to the left up a side gulch, following it till we came
+to the divide, some eight thousand or nine thousand feet above
+sea-level, where we expected to go down to the head of the Sevier
+Valley, where Jack had before been by another route. At the gulch we
+deemed the correct one, no road or trail being visible, we turned late
+in the afternoon to the left and rapidly mounted higher, with the fresh
+snow growing correspondingly deeper till it was about two feet on the
+level. The going was slow and hard, the sky still dropping heavy flakes
+upon us. About five o'clock we found ourselves on the summit of a high
+bald knob topping the world. In every direction through the snow-mist
+similar bald knobs could be seen looming against the darkening sky. The
+old drifts were so deep that where a horse broke through the crust he
+went down to the end of his leg. This excited them, and they plunged
+wildly. I finally got them all three still and quiet, while Jack scanned
+the outlook intently. "See any landmark, Jack?" said I. "Not a damned
+thing I ever saw before!" answered Jack. At brief intervals the falling
+snow would cease, and we could see more clearly, except that the
+impending night began to cast over all a general obscurity.
+
+There was a deep valley beyond to the right. While it was not possible
+to tell directions we felt that our course must lie there, and I led the
+way down a long treeless slope, breaking a path as well as I could, my
+horse following behind; the others urged on by Jack from the rear. The
+snow became shallower near the bottom. We mounted and I rode in the
+direction that Jack thought we ought to take to come to the road down
+the Sevier where he had before travelled. We crossed the valley in doing
+this, but at one point in the very bottom my horse wanted to turn to the
+left, which would have taken us down the deepening valley. I prevented
+his turning and we continued up a gulch a mile or two, where it narrowed
+till we could barely proceed. Jack then climbed up on a cliff and
+disappeared, endeavouring to see some familiar object, the falling snow
+having at last stopped. I stood in my tracks with the three animals and
+waited so long I began to be afraid that Jack had met with an accident.
+Just then I heard him descending. It was nearly dark. He could not see
+any sign of the region he had been in before. Snow and darkness puzzle
+one even in a familiar country. We then went back to the valley where
+the horse had wished to turn and followed it down, now believing that it
+might be the right way after all, for Billy had been over the road
+several times. Another example of horse sense, which seems to prove that
+horses know more than we think they do. We had expected to reach Asa's
+ranch before night and had not brought an axe, in consequence. Keeping
+down the valley till we came to a group of cedars, some of which were
+dead, and a tall pine tree, we camped, pulling branches from the cedars
+and bark from the pine for a fire, which quickly melted its way down to
+the ground, leaving a convenient seat all round about twenty inches
+high, upon which we laid blankets to sit on. Our pack contained enough
+food for supper; breakfast would have to take care of itself. We also
+had some grain, which we fed to the hungry animals and tied them under
+the cedars, where they were protected in a measure from the sharp wind
+though they were standing in deep snow. For ourselves we cut twigs from
+the green cedars and made a thick mattress on the snow with them. Our
+blankets on top of these made a bed fit for a king. The storm cleared
+entirely; a brilliant moon shone over all, causing the falling frost in
+the air to scintillate like diamonds.
+
+In the morning, Tuesday, February 18th, we packed up at once, having
+nothing left to eat, and proceeded down the valley wondering if we were
+on the right road or not. The sky arched over with that deep tone that
+is almost black in winter in high altitudes, and the sun fell in a
+dazzling sheet upon the wide range of unbroken white. The surface was
+like a mirror; the eyes closed against the intense light instinctively.
+As we went on northwards and downwards a faint, double, continuous
+hollow began to appear on the snow--a waggon-track at the bottom. It
+became more and more distinct and we then felt sure that we were on the
+right road, though we were not positive till near noon when, approaching
+a rocky point, we suddenly heard the clear ring of an axe on the
+metallic air. A few moments later turning this we saw a large, swift
+stream flowing clear between snowy banks, and beyond a log cabin with
+blue smoke rising from the immense stone chimney. In front was a man
+chopping wood. His dog was barking. It was a welcome, a beautiful
+picture of frontier comfort. It was Asa's ranch. Asa was one of the men
+who helped the Major on his arrival at the mouth of the Virgin in 1869,
+now having changed his residence to this place. We were soon made
+welcome in the single large room of the cabin where all the family were,
+and while the horses were having a good feed an equally good one for us
+was prepared by Mrs. Asa on the fire burning snugly in the great
+chimney. Never did fried ham, boiled eggs, and hot coffee do better
+service. We could not have been more cordially received if these Mormons
+had been our own relatives.
+
+We rested there till about three o'clock, when we bade them all good-bye
+and rode on down the valley, the snow continually lessening in depth,
+till, when we reached the much lower altitude of Panguitch at sunset,
+twenty-six miles from our night's camp, there were only three or four
+inches and the temperature was not nearly so low, though still very
+cold. According to custom we applied to the bishop for accomodation for
+ourselves and our stock and were again cordially received. We were
+quickly made comfortable before a bright fire on the hearth which
+illumed the whole room. While the good wife got supper, the bishop, an
+exceedingly pleasant man, brought out some Dixie wine he had recently
+received. He poured us out each a large goblet and took one himself.
+After a hearty supper Jack and I put down our blankets on the bishop's
+haystack and knew nothing more till sunrise. Leaving Panguitch we rode
+on down the Sevier, crossing it frequently, and made about forty miles,
+passing through Sevier Canyon and Circle Valley, where there were a
+number of deserted houses, and arrived for night at the ranch of a
+Gentile named Van Buren. By this time my eyes, which had been inflamed
+by the strong glare of the sun, began to feel as if they were full of
+sand, and presently I became aware that I was afflicted with that
+painful malady snowblindness. I could barely see, the pain in both eyes
+was extreme, and a river of tears poured forth continually. Other men
+whom we heard of as we went on were blinded worse than I. All I could
+do, having no goggles, was to keep my hat pulled down and cut off the
+glare as much as possible.[39] At Marysvale the stage had been
+abandoned. We kept on, finding as we advanced that all the stages were
+put out of business by the epizooetic. There was nothing for Jack to do
+but to go on with me to Nephi.
+
+In riding through one village I saw a sign on the closed door of a store
+just off the road and my curiosity led me to ride up close enough to
+read it. I did not linger. The words I saw were "SMALL POX." That night
+we reached Nephi under the shadow of the superb Mount Nebo, where I
+tried again for a stage so that Jack could return. No stage arrived and
+the following morning we rode on northward over very muddy roads,
+finally reaching Spanish Fork, where a fresh snow-storm covered the
+country about a foot, making travelling still more difficult. Another
+day's journey put us as far as American Fork, only three miles from the
+end of the railway, a place called Lehi, for which we made a very early
+start the next day, Wednesday, February 25th, but when we arrived there
+through the mud and slush the train had taken its departure. Our pack
+mule was now very lame and travelled with difficulty, but we continued
+on toward Salt Lake. The train had become stalled in the immense
+snowdrifts at the Point-of-the-Mountain and there we overtook it. I was
+soon on board with my tin case and other baggage, but it was a
+considerable time before the gang of men and a snow plough extricated
+the train. About five o'clock we ran into the town. I went to the Walker
+House, then the best hotel, and that night slept in a real room and a
+real bed for the first time in nearly two years, but I opened the
+windows as wide as they would go. In the morning I sent off the map and
+then turned my attention to seeing the Mormon capital. Cap. was now
+living there and it was Fennemore's home. I also found Bonnemort and
+MacEntee in town, and Jack came on up the remaining short distance in
+order to take a fresh start for Kanab.
+
+Nearly forty years have slipped away since the events chronicled in this
+volume. Never was there a more faithful, resolute band of explorers than
+ours. Many years afterward Prof. said in a letter to me speaking of the
+men of the Second Powell Expedition, "I have never seen since such zeal
+and courage displayed." From out the dark chasm of eternity comes the
+hail, "Tirtaan Aigles dis wai!" and already many of that little company
+have crossed to Killiloo. The Major and Prof. repose in the sacred
+limits of Arlington. Strew their graves with roses and forget them not.
+They did a great work in solving the last geographical problem of the
+United States.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 35: Professor Thompson declared to me not long before his
+death that the river was accurate as far as Catastrophe Rapid, (about
+where longitude 113.39 intersects the river) but from there to the
+Virgin it might need some corrections.]
+
+[Footnote 36: Some men from Kanab afterwards came in, sawed one in two
+and made it shorter, and then tried to go up the canyon by towing. They
+did not get far, and the boat was abandoned. The floods then carried
+both down to destruction.]
+
+[Footnote 37: A description of this journey ascribed to September, 1870,
+occurs at page 108, _et seq._, in Powell's report on the _Exploration of
+the Colorado River of the West_, 1875.]
+
+[Footnote 38: Oonupits or Innupits is the singular, Innupin the plural.
+It may be translated witch, elf, or goblin, with evil tendencies. On the
+other hand they did not fear a spirit. When on the Kaibab in July with
+Chuar and several other Indians, Prof. while riding along heard a cry
+something like an Indian halloo. "After we got into camp," he said in
+his diary: "Chuar asked George Adair what he called that which lived
+after the body died. George replied, 'A spirit.' 'Well,' said Chuar,
+'that was what hallooed in the forest to-day. It was the spirit of a
+dead Indian. I have often heard it. Sometimes it is near, sometimes far
+away. When I was here with Beaman I heard it call near me. I answered,
+telling it to come to me. It did not come nor reply, and I felt very
+much ashamed to think I had called.'"]
+
+[Footnote 39: For travelling across snow one should always be provided
+with smoked goggles. Failing to have them, lines of charcoal should be
+drawn below the eyes or a scarf tied so as to break the glare.]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+A
+
+Adair, George, 153, 241
+
+Adams, Nathan, 241, 253;
+  his endowment garment, 259
+
+Agua Grande, Navajo chief, 147
+
+Aigles, Tirtaan, slogan, 75, 267
+
+Alcove Brook, 47
+
+Altitude of Colorado River above sea, Black's Fork, 15;
+  Junction Green and Grand, 114;
+  Paria, 151, 217;
+  Grand Wash, 217;
+  Little Colorado, 223;
+  Kanab Canyon, 241
+
+American Fork, 266
+
+Amerind, viii.
+
+Andy, _see_ Hattan
+
+Aquarius Plateau, 200, 202
+
+Arlington, Powell and Thompson buried there, 267
+
+Arms, kind used, 12
+
+Asa, ranch, 264, 265;
+  assisted Powell, 265
+
+Ashley, Wm. H., through Red Canyon, 2, 28, 95;
+  name on rocks, 28
+
+Ashley Falls, 26;
+  portage at, 27
+
+Ashtishkal, Navajo chief, 177
+
+Aspen Lakes, 201
+
+Averett, Elijah, grave of, 197
+
+Azure Cliffs, 99
+
+
+B
+
+Baird, Professor Spencer, vi.
+
+Bangs, Mount, climbed, 194
+
+Barbenceta, principal chief of the Navajos, 168
+
+Base line, 166, 173, 174
+
+Basor, teamster, 68
+
+Beadle, J. H., 215;
+  under name of Hanson, 215
+
+Beaman, E. O., place in boat, 11;
+  duty of, 11;
+  leaves party, 179;
+  passes Paria on way to Moki Towns, 216;
+  up from Kanab Canyon to Surprise Valley, 241
+
+Beaver, ground, 77;
+  shoot one, 78;
+  steak cooked, 78;
+  soup, 78
+
+Berry's Spring, 188;
+  arrive at, 191
+
+Berthoud and Bridger lay out waggon road, 67
+
+Best Expedition, place of starting, 95
+
+Big Boulder Creek, 202
+
+Bishop, Francis Marion (Cap.), place in boat, 11;
+  duty of, 11;
+  leaves party, 180
+
+Bishop's Creek, 54
+
+Bison, pictographs, 61;
+  range on Green River, 61
+
+Black Rock Canyon, 193
+
+Black's Fork, 15
+
+Boats of the Second Powell Expedition, the, 4;
+  names of, 4;
+  described, 5, 6;
+  method of packing, 8;
+  order of going, 11;
+  crews of, 11;
+  no iron on keels, 14;
+  built to float when full of water, 25;
+  reassignment of crews, 136, 215;
+  _Canonita_ cached, 135;
+  launched again, 209;
+  crew for, 209;
+  _Dean_ cached, 154;
+  _Nellie Powell_ cached, 154;
+  _Dean_ discovered by Beadle, 215;
+  _Nellie Powell_ abandoned, 215;
+  _Canonita_ and _Dean_ abandoned, 244
+
+Bonito Bend, 111
+
+Bonnemort, John, 143;
+  leaves party, 179;
+  in Salt Lake City, 267
+
+Boston burned, news of, received, 256
+
+Bow-knot Bend, 108
+
+Bread, kind used, 4
+
+Bridger and Berthoud lay out waggon road, 67
+
+Bridger, Jim, 95
+
+Brigham Young, 170, 185
+
+Bright Angel Creek, arrive at mouth of, 232;
+  why so named, 232
+
+Brown expedition, place of starting, 95
+
+Brown's Hole, name changed to Brown's Park, 18, 30;
+  arrive at, 30
+
+Brush Creek, 54
+
+Buckskin Mountain (Kaibab Plateau), 159
+
+Buenaventura, Rio San, Escalante's name for Green River, 67
+
+Buffalo _Express_, letters from F. S. Dellenbaugh to, vii.
+
+Butte of the Cross, 110
+
+
+C
+
+Campbell, Richard, knew of ford El Vado de los Padres, 96
+
+Camp moved to the Gap, 171
+
+_Canonita_, left behind, 135;
+  reached overland, 209
+
+Canyon of Desolation, enter it, 77;
+  character and height of walls, 80, 84, 85;
+  length of, 91
+
+Canyon of Lodore, enter it, 34;
+  declivity of, 43;
+  length of, 48;
+  fall of, 48
+
+Canyons, for list of, with heights of walls, lengths, etc.,
+      see _The Romance of the Colorado River_, Appendix
+
+Canyons not dark in daytime, 25
+
+Cap., _see_ Bishop
+
+Capsize, of the _Canonita_, 23;
+  of the _Dean_, 235
+
+Carleton, companion of Beaman, 216
+
+Carson, Kit, 95
+
+Cascade Creek, 43, 202
+
+Cascades of rain, 105, 106, 132
+
+Cataract Canyon, declivity compared, 43;
+  beginning of, 115;
+  height of walls, 116, 122, 126, 128, 129;
+  we enter it, 118;
+  declivity in, 118;
+  boulders rolled by current, 118;
+  width of river, 119;
+  boat runs rapid alone, 121;
+  stones rocked by current, 127;
+  length of, 132;
+  end of, 132;
+  number of rapids, 132
+
+Cataract Creek, 96, 202
+
+Catastrophe Rapid, vi., 242, 243
+
+Caves once occupied, 132
+
+Chandler Falls, 87;
+  Creek, 87
+
+Chicago, burning of, first news, 157
+
+Chicago _Tribune_, letters from Clement Powell to, v.
+
+Chief Douglas, Major and Mrs. Powell winter near his camp, 172
+
+Chocolate Cliffs, 166
+
+Chuarooumpeak, chief of Kaibab band of Pai Utes, 250;
+  shoots at Oonupits, 252;
+  singing, 252;
+  hears spirit call, 253;
+  goes back to Kanab, 254
+
+Circle Valley, pass through it, 266
+
+Clarkson, Mormon settlement, 197
+
+Clear or Spring Creek (Badger Creek), 158
+
+Clem, _see_ Powell
+
+Clemente, Rio San, Escalante's name for White River, 67
+
+Cliff-of-the-Harp named, 43
+
+Coal Canyon, 91
+
+Colob Plateau, 191
+
+Colorado, from, into Utah, 56
+
+Colorado River, accuracy of plat of course, vi., vii., 243;
+  upper continuation of, 1;
+  white salmon, 98;
+  actual beginning of, 115;
+  excessive high water, 244
+
+Compass Creek, 24
+
+Condition of party at end of first season's river work, 145
+
+Course of the Colorado River, accuracy of, vi., vii., 243
+
+Craggy Canyon, 57
+
+Crater, recent, in Uinkaret country, 188
+
+Creek, Sentinel, 149
+
+Crescent Creek, 209
+
+Crossing of the Fathers, the, _see_ El Vado de los Padres
+
+
+D
+
+Dance, Mormon, 173
+
+Davy Crockett, Fort, 30
+
+_Dean_, the _Emma_, cached for the winter, 154;
+  discovered by J. H. Beadle, 215
+
+Deer, game, etc., 26
+
+Dellenbaugh, Butte, 102, 104;
+  Mount, named, 254;
+  Thompson climbs it, 259
+
+Dellenbaugh, F. S., joins party, 3;
+  position in boat, 11;
+  duty of, 11;
+  letters from, to Buffalo _Express_, vii.
+
+De Motte, Professor, 213
+
+Denver, Colorado Canyon, and Pacific Railway, 119
+
+Denver and Rio Grande Railway crossing of Green River, 95
+
+Denver to Salt Lake, waggon road _via_ Golden and Provo,
+      and Robideau Crossing of Green River, 67
+
+Descent, in feet of Green-Colorado River, from Union Pacific
+      Railway to Black's Fork, 15;
+  to Flaming Gorge, 17;
+  in Red Canyon, 33;
+  in Lodore, 48;
+  in Whirlpool, 56;
+  to the mouth of the Uinta, 71;
+  from Wonsits Valley to Gunnison Crossing, 93;
+  from the Union Pacific to Gunnison Crossing, 93;
+  from Gunnison Crossing to junction of Green and Grand, 114;
+  from Union Pacific to mouth of Grand River, 114;
+  from mouth of Grand River to Dirty Devil, 134;
+  from Union Pacific to Dirty Devil (Fremont), 135;
+  from Union Pacific to Paria (Lee Ferry), 151;
+  from Paria to Little Colorado, 223;
+  from Little Colorado to Grand Wash, 223;
+  from Little Colorado to Kanab, 241;
+  from Paria to Kanab, 241
+
+Desolation, Canyon of, enter it, 77;
+  perforations in walls of, 82;
+  width of river in, 83, 89;
+  height of walls, 84, 85;
+  natural arches in, 87, 88;
+  end of, 91;
+  length of, 91
+
+Diamond Butte, how named, 192
+
+Diamond Creek mouth astronomically determined, 95
+
+Diary, of Professor Thompson, vii.;
+  of John F. Steward, vii.;
+  of F. S. Dellenbaugh, vii.;
+  of Jack Summer, 7
+
+Dinwiddie, Lieut., 258
+
+Dirty Devil Mountains, _see_ Unknown Mountains
+
+Dirty Devil (Fremont) River, viii.;
+  point of junction with Colorado, 3;
+  failure to get to it overland, 70, 99;
+  arrive at mouth by river, 133;
+  overland trip to, 195;
+  on head of, according to Dodds, 199;
+  mistake discovered, 199, 200;
+  reach mouth of, overland, 209
+
+Disaster Falls, 39;
+  dinner from wreckage of _No-name_, 40;
+  fall of river at, 42
+
+Distance, from Union Pacific Railway to Gate of Lodore, 33;
+  to Echo Park, 48;
+  to junction of Green and Grand, 114;
+  to Dirty Devil, 135;
+  Paria to Little Colorado, 223;
+  Little Colorado to Kanab Canyon, 241;
+  Wonsits Valley to Gunnison Crossing, 93.
+  _See also_ Appendix, _Romance of the Colorado River_
+
+Dixie, name for Virgin Valley, 164
+
+Dodds, Captain Pardyn, fails to reach Dirty Devil River, 70;
+  meet him at El Vado, 143
+
+Dog, Dandie Dinmont, of Mrs. Thompson, 166, 195
+
+Douglas Boy, first meeting with, 64;
+  comes to mouth of Uinta, 70;
+  an eloper, 71;
+  farewell to, 76
+
+Dummy and his prophecy, 9
+
+Dunn, William H., vi.;
+  name carved in Music Temple, 141;
+  killed by Shewits, 141, 259
+
+Dunn's Cliff, 43
+
+Dutch oven, 4
+
+Dutton, Major, vii.
+
+
+E
+
+Echo, Cliff, 49;
+  Park, 49;
+  Rock, 53;
+  Peaks, how named, 151
+
+Eight Mile Spring, camp at, 165
+
+El Vado de los Padres (Crossing of the Fathers), 7, 8, 41, 95, 96;
+  first white man to ford after Escalante, 96;
+  arrive at, 1871, 143;
+  description of, 168;
+  arrive at, 1872, 210;
+  early known by Richard Campbell, 96
+
+Emma, Sister, a wife of John D. Lee, 211
+
+Endowment garment, Adams wears one, 259
+
+Epizooetic visits Utah, 262
+
+Escalante, his crossing of the Colorado, 7;
+  Sierra, 43;
+  of Green River, 67;
+  his name for Green River, 67;
+  for White River, 67;
+  River, 210;
+  river named by Professor Thompson, 210
+
+
+F
+
+Failure Creek, 129
+
+Fennemore, joins party, 187;
+  falls sick, 212;
+  leaves party, 216;
+  in Salt Lake, 267
+
+Field, 5;
+  arm-chair obtained from, 8;
+  breakfast at, 9
+
+Flaming Gorge, 1, 2;
+  height of walls, 17;
+  Green River enters, 17;
+  accessibility, 20;
+  gateway to the series of canyons, 22
+
+Frank, _see_ Richardson
+
+Frank, Pai Ute, _see_ Chuarooumpeak
+
+Fremont, River, 3;
+  _see_ Dirty Devil;
+  General, 95;
+
+First Granite Gorge of the Grand Canyon, declivity in, 43
+
+First Powell Expedition, v.;
+  plat of river by, vi., 2, 96;
+  boats of, x.
+
+Food supply exhausted, 141
+
+Fort Davy Crockett, 30
+
+Fort Defiance, Jacob Hamblin goes there, 143
+
+Fort Pierce, 188
+
+Fort Robideau, 67;
+  only house on the river, 72
+
+Fretwater Falls, 83
+
+Fuzz, Mrs. Thompson's dog, 166, 195
+
+
+G
+
+Gate of Lodore, 32
+
+Gentile frontier town compared with Mormon, 174
+
+Gila monster, 245
+
+Gilbert, G. K., vii., 136
+
+Glen Canyon, beginning, 137;
+  width of river in, 139;
+  height of walls, 139-143;
+  end of, 151
+
+Glencove, attempt to reach Dirty Devil River from, 99
+
+Glendale, Mormon settlement, 262
+
+Goblin City, journey to, 68;
+  description of, 69
+
+Gold, found on Colorado, 144;
+  at mouth of Kanab, 174;
+  miners go after, 185
+
+Golden to Provo, waggon road, 67
+
+Gosi-Utes, Gunnison killed by, 95
+
+Gould's ranch, 190
+
+Grand Canyon, Jacob Hamblin circumtours it, 96;
+  Powell finds way in to the mouth of the Kanab, 174;
+  Dodds and Jones get to it, 188;
+  Whitmore describes a crossing, 188;
+  Dodds and Johnson reach river, 189;
+  Dodds and Dellenbaugh go to river at Lava Falls, 192;
+  Marble division begins, 216;
+  length of, including Marble Canyon, 217;
+  beginning of, 223;
+  enter it, 223
+
+Grand River, 109
+
+Grand Wash, 96;
+  altitude of, 217
+
+Granite, the, runs up, 225
+
+Grant, news of election of, 256
+
+Graves, ancient, discovered, 77
+
+Gray Canyon, enter it, 91;
+  colour, height, and character of walls, 91, 92;
+  end of, 93;
+  length of, 93
+
+Gray Cliffs, 164
+
+Great Basin, 164
+
+Green River, points on, astronomically fixed before Powell, 19, 95
+
+Green River City, arrive there, 3;
+  described, 5;
+  settlements below, 8
+
+Green River Suck, 20
+
+Green River Valley, 1, 2
+
+Grizzly bears, 26
+
+Gunnison, Captain, crossed Green River, 95;
+  killed, 95
+
+Gunnison Butte, 93, 99
+
+Gunnison Crossing, Powell plans to rejoin his party there, 70
+
+Gypsum Canyon, 127
+
+
+H
+
+Habasu (Havasu), 96
+
+Haight, 153, 157
+
+Hamblin, Frank, 254
+
+Hamblin, Fred, 99
+
+Hamblin, Jacob, scout and pioneer, 96;
+  first after Escalante to cross at El Vado, 96;
+  circumtours the Marble and Grand canyons, 96;
+  arrives at Paria, 153;
+  treaty with Navajos, 168;
+  title of his book, 169;
+  Indian engagements, 170;
+  goes to Mt. Trumbull with Powell, 170;
+  wives of, 174;
+  hears plot to ambush, 243
+
+Hamblin, Joseph, 156, 241
+
+Hamblin, Lyman, 99
+
+Hanson, name assumed by J. H. Beadle, 215
+
+Harrell brothers, camp in Brown's Park, 30
+
+Hastele, Navajo chief, 169
+
+Hattan, Andrew, 4;
+  place in boat, 11;
+  his call to meals, 11;
+  departure, 260
+
+Headquarters, winter, of, 1872-73, 260
+
+Hell's Half Mill, 44
+
+Henry Mountains (Unknown Mts., _q. v._), 207
+
+Henry's Fork, mouth of, 17;
+  astronomically fixed, 95
+
+Henry, Professor Joseph, vi.
+
+Henry (Azure) Cliffs, 99
+
+Hidden Lakes, the, 201
+
+High Plateaus of Utah, continuation of Wasatch Range, 95;
+  end of, 164
+
+Hillers, John K., joins party, 7;
+  catches fish, 15;
+  songs of, 52, 74;
+  catches salmon, 98;
+  photographer, 217;
+  hurts his back, 225;
+  trip to Moki towns, 248
+
+Hog-backs, topographical feature described, 198
+
+Hook, Theodore, drowned, 25;
+  grave of, 25
+
+Horse discovered, 90
+
+Horse sense, 258, 264
+
+Horseshoe Canyon, why so called, 21
+
+Hotel Tovar, 232
+
+House ruins, Shinumo, 112, 137, 138
+
+House Rock Spring, 157, 160
+
+House Rock Valley, 160, 175
+
+Howland, Seneca, and O. G., 141
+
+Howlands and Dunn, vi., vii.;
+  why killed by Shewits, 171;
+  left first party, 242;
+  killed near Mt. Dellenbaugh, 259
+
+Hurricane Hill, 190
+
+Hurricane Ledge, 190
+
+
+I
+
+Illustrations in Powell's _Report_, x.
+
+Innupin, definition of, 252
+
+Innupin Picavu (Water-pocket), 251
+
+Island Park, 56
+
+Ives, comes up Colorado, 1858, 2;
+  reconnoitres south of Grand Canyon, 96;
+  names North Side Mountains, 186
+
+
+J
+
+Jack, _see_ Hillers
+
+Jacob, _see_ Hamblin
+
+Jacob's Pools, 159
+
+Johnson, Will, 186;
+  leaves party, 211
+
+Johnson's, Mormon settlement 166
+
+Jones, S. V., 10;
+  place in boat, 11;
+  falls ill, 152;
+  leaves, 260
+
+Julien, D., inscriptions by, 108, 113, 118
+
+Junction, the, of the Grand and Green, 113;
+  summit at, 116;
+  trail to, 118
+
+
+K
+
+Kaibab (Buckskin Mountain), seen from Echo Peaks, 150;
+  band of Pai Utes, 177;
+  trip to south-west corner of, 182;
+  Point F established on, 184;
+  seen from Marble Canyon, 222
+
+Kanab, settlement of, 8;
+  headquarters, 145;
+  headquarters, winter of 1872-73, 260;
+  description of, 166;
+  base line near, 173;
+  Christmas dance, 173
+
+Kanab Canyon, journey up, 185, 244;
+  supplies to be brought in there, 224
+
+Kapurats, Pai Ute name for Major Powell, 171
+
+Kettle Creek, 24
+
+Killiloo, refrain, 75, 81, 226, 267
+
+Kingfisher Canyon, 22;
+  why so called, 22
+
+Kingfisher Creek, 21
+
+Kit Carson, 95
+
+Koneco, Navajo chief, 154
+
+
+L
+
+Labyrinth Canyon, enter it, 105;
+  end of, 110;
+  length of, 110
+
+La Sal, Sierra, 103, 109, 127
+
+Latter-Day Saints, 212
+
+Lava Falls, Dodds and Dellenbaugh climb to river there, 192
+
+Leaping Brook, 46
+
+Lee, John Doyle, 195;
+  settles at Paria, 210;
+  meet him, 210;
+  wife Rachel, 210;
+  wife Emma (his XVIII.), 210;
+  called Naguts, 211;
+  executed, 211
+
+Lee Ferry, 215
+
+Lehi, Mormon town, 262, 266
+
+Let-down, 26;
+  method of accomplishing a, 90
+
+Letters from Clement Powell to the Chicago _Tribune_, v.;
+  from F. S. Dellenbaugh to the Buffalo _Express_, vii.
+
+Life preservers, 8;
+  indispensable, 237
+
+Light, the controversy of the, 63
+
+Lighthouse Rock, 80
+
+Lignite Canyon, 91
+
+Line portage, 26
+
+Little Brown's Hole, 29;
+  name changed to Red Canyon Park, 29
+
+Little Canyon, 31
+
+Little Colorado, canyon of, forms division between Marble and
+      Grand Canyons, 217;
+  mouth of, 222;
+  altitude of mouth, 223
+
+Little White, or Price River, 92
+
+Little Zion Valley, 190
+
+Lodore Canyon, party goes through on the ice, 2;
+  gate of, 32;
+  why so called, 32;
+  we enter it, 34;
+  width of river in, 35, 42, 43;
+  velocity of current in, 35, 42;
+  sunlight in, 36;
+  wreckage found in, 41;
+  height of walls, 42, 43, 46;
+  character of 42;
+  declivity in, 43;
+  end of, 48;
+  length of, 48
+
+Logan, Mt., 188
+
+Log-cabin Cliff, 84
+
+Lonely Dell, 211
+
+Long Valley, route _via_, 262
+
+Lost Creek (Crescent Creek), 209
+
+Louisa, a wife of Jacob Hamblin, 174, 195, 250
+
+Lower Disaster Falls, 42
+
+
+M
+
+MacEntee, 166;
+  leaves party, 179;
+  in Salt Lake, 267
+
+Mackenzie, General, ix.,
+  map A, facing page 95
+
+Macomb, 95
+
+"Major, The" viii., _see_ Powell, John Wesley
+
+Mangum, Joseph, 153;
+  the lost guide, 155, 157
+
+Manti, Mormon settlement, 99, 174
+
+Map, accuracy of plat of Colorado River, vi., vii., 243;
+  sheets giving Colorado River, viii.;
+  preliminary, finished, 262;
+  sent to Washington, 267
+
+Marble Canyon, 150;
+  miners wrecked in, 195, 217;
+  enter it, 216;
+  total length with Grand Canyon, 217;
+  height of walls, 216, 217-222;
+  end of 222;
+  descent in, 223;
+  number of rapids in, 223
+
+Markargunt Plateau, 191
+
+Meek, Joseph, goes through Lodore on the ice, 95
+
+Melvin Falls, 86
+
+Millecrag Bend, 129, 132
+
+Moki (Hopi) ruin, 79
+
+Monument built 1869 by Powell, 78
+
+Mookoontoweap or Little Zion Valley, 190
+
+Mormon, settlements, 96;
+  method of pioneering, 167, 174;
+  dance, 173
+
+Mt. Carmel, Mormon settlement, 262
+
+Mount Dellenbaugh, named, 254;
+  altitude, 259;
+  Shinumo remains on, 259
+
+Mount Ellen, Henry Mountains, 208
+
+Mount Hillers, Henry Mountains, 208
+
+Mount Logan, 188, 253
+
+Mount Nebo, 266
+
+Mount Pennell, Henry Mountains, 207, 208
+
+Mount Seneca Howland (Navajo Mt.), 141
+
+Mountain Meadows massacre, 195;
+  Lee's version, 211
+
+Music Temple, grotto, 141, 210
+
+
+N
+
+Narrow Canyon, 3, 133
+
+Natural arches in Canyon of Desolation, 87, 88
+
+Navajos, agency, 143;
+  meet with, 146;
+  afraid of our boats, 153;
+  dance with, 154;
+  ceremonial, 177
+
+Navajo Creek, 149
+
+Navajo Mountain, 139, 141, 201
+
+Navajo Well, 175, 248
+
+Nephi, 266
+
+New Year's Day, 1872, 174;
+  1873, 260
+
+_No-name_, boat, wreck of, 38
+
+North Side Mountains (Uinkaret Mts.), 186
+
+
+O
+
+Oak Spring, 187, 188, 191
+
+Old Jacob, _see_ Jacob Hamblin
+
+Old Spanish Trail, 95, 246
+
+Oonupits, sound made by, 252;
+  described, 252;
+  Indian shoots at, 252
+
+Orange Cliffs, 110
+
+Order of going, 11, 72, 136, 215
+
+Overland Stage Co. road, Salt Lake to Denver _via_ Provo,
+      Robideau Crossing, and Golden, 67
+
+
+P
+
+Paantung, Thompson's Shewits guide, 259
+
+Painted Desert, 150
+
+Pai Ute women, Jacob Hamblin, scaled to, 174;
+  language without an "F," 250;
+  name for Major Powell, 250;
+  name for Professor Thompson, 250;
+  name for Dellenbaugh, 250;
+  George, Waytoots, Chuar, 250;
+  _see also_ Chuarooumpeak;
+  method of cooking rabbits, 252
+
+Pai Utes, despised by Navajos, 170;
+  Kaibab band of, 177;
+  wickiups, 177;
+  arms, 178;
+  rabbit skin robe, 178;
+  fire obtained by drill, 178;
+  ceremonial, 178;
+  songs, 178, 179;
+  stone arrowhead making, 178
+
+Panguitch, arrive at, 265
+
+Paria, 95, 151, 197;
+  up cliffs at, 155;
+  settlement, 166
+
+Parowan, 248
+
+Patnish, chief of renegades, 8, 167, 250
+
+Photographic outfit, 6, 58
+
+Pictographs, 61
+
+Pierce, Fort, 188, 191
+
+Pine Valley Mountains, 189, 190
+
+Pink Cliffs, 164
+
+Pipe Spring, 185;
+  Wash, 185
+
+Plateau Province, the, 109
+
+Point F, 184
+
+Portage, line, 26;
+  method of making, 40
+
+Potato Valley, 199
+
+Powell, Clement, letters from to Chicago _Tribune_, v.;
+  place in boat, 11;
+  duties of, 11;
+  leaves party, 259
+
+Powell, Emma Dean (Mrs. J. W.), 7;
+  and infant daughter, 165;
+  in Middle Park, 172;
+  leaves for Washington, 179
+
+Powell, John Wesley (The Major), the conqueror of the Colorado, 2;
+  title in Volunteer Army, 2;
+  first descent of Colorado; v., 3, 96,
+  no right arm, 8;
+  titles of reports, v., vi.,
+  position in boat, 11;
+  duty of, 11;
+  goes up Yampa, 50;
+  on Yampa River 1868, 50;
+  goes ahead to Uinta, 56;
+  to Salt Lake, 67, 70, 99, 144, 179, 259, 266;
+  songs of, 73;
+  rejoins party, 98;
+  fails to reach Dirty Devil overland, 99;
+  leaves for Washington, 179, 259;
+  reports through Smithsonian Institution, vi.;
+  runs course of river, vii;
+  buried at Arlington, 267
+
+Price River, 92
+
+"Prof.," viii.,
+  _see_ Thompson, A. H.
+
+Provo to Golden, waggon road, 67
+
+_Putnam's Magazine_, copy found, 43
+
+
+R
+
+Rabbits, Pai Ute method of cooking, 252
+
+Rain cascades, 105, 106, 132
+
+Rapid, the first, 21;
+  method of running, 35, 36;
+  tails of, 36;
+  eddys at, 36;
+  Catastrophe, vi., 242, 243
+
+Rations, 4, 111, 119
+
+Red Canyon, 2;
+  entrance of, 22;
+  upset of _Nellie Powell_ in, 23;
+  width of river in, 24;
+  speed of current, 24;
+  height of cliffs, 24, 28;
+  end of, 30
+
+Red Canyon Park, 29
+
+Red Cliff, 176
+
+Red Lake Utes, Jacob pacifies them, 170;
+  meet with band of, 204
+
+Regiment marches from Salt Lake to Denver, 68
+
+Renshawe, John, joins party, 259
+
+Richardson, Frank C. A., 10;
+  position in boats, 11;
+  skill in dressing deer, 16;
+  leaves party, 31
+
+Riggs, 157
+
+Riggs, Charley, 248
+
+Riley, George, 143;
+  head of pack train, 156;
+  cook, 260
+
+Rio, San Buenaventura, 67;
+  San Clemente, 67;
+  San Rafael, 95, 103;
+  San Juan, 140, 210
+
+Robideau, crossing of Green River, 67;
+  Fort, 67
+
+Rocking stones in current, 127
+
+Roundy, Lorenzo W., 153
+
+Rudder useless on the Colorado, x.
+
+
+S
+
+Sag, the, at Disaster Falls, 38
+
+St. George, Mormon settlement, 194
+
+Salmon, white, caught, 98
+
+Salt Lake City, 7, 17;
+  the major goes to, 67, 70, 99, 144, 179, 259, 266
+
+Salt Lake to Denver, waggon road, _via_ Provo and Golden, 67
+
+San Clemente, Rio, Escalante's name for White River, 67
+
+San Francisco Mts., seen from Mt. Trumbull, 187;
+  from Echo Peaks, 250
+
+San Juan River, mouth of, 140;
+  pass it, 1872, 210
+
+San Rafael River, 95;
+  arrive at, 103
+
+Santa Fe and Los Angeles trail, 94
+
+Santa Fe Railway to the Grand Canyon, x.
+
+Scorpions, 132
+
+Second Powell expedition, the, vi., 3;
+  material used for report on first expedition, vi.;
+  supplies of, 4;
+  method of sacking rations, 6;
+  ready to start, 8;
+  personnel of, 11
+
+Selden, 95
+
+Sentinel Rock and Sentinel Creek, 149
+
+Sevier Canyon, 266
+
+Sharp Mountain Falls, 91
+
+Shewits, killed Powell's men, vii., 96;
+  territory of, 186;
+  afraid of us, 191;
+  plan to ambush us, 243;
+  meet us, 253;
+  conference and agreement, 253;
+  Thompson's guide, 259
+
+Shinumo, the, 112, 149;
+  trail, 113, 145;
+  caves, 132;
+  Canyon, 184;
+  ruin on Mt. Dellenbaugh, 259
+
+Shower Bath Spring, 245
+
+Shunesburg, Powell descends Virgin River to, 248
+
+Sierra, Escalante, 43;
+  La Lal, 103;
+  Abajo, 127
+
+Simpson, Captain, 95
+
+Sinav-to-weap, 117
+
+Sister Emma, 211
+
+Sister Louisa, 174
+
+Smithsonian Institution, Powell reported through, vi.
+
+Snowblind, 266
+
+Soap Creek, 159;
+  Frank M. Brown, drowned near mouth of, 159, 217;
+  Rapid, 217
+
+"Sockdologer, of the World," 222;
+  rapid, 226
+
+Songs of the camp, 73, 74
+
+Sorghum molasses, 172
+
+Spanish Fork, 266
+
+Spanish Trail, Old, 95
+
+Split Mountain Canyon, 57;
+  enter it, 58;
+  end of, 60;
+  length of, 60
+
+Springs in river bottom, 103
+
+Stanton, R. B., proves the White story incorrect, v.;
+  completed Brown expedition, ix.;
+  Canyon Railway project, x
+
+Steward, John F., place in boat, 11;
+  duty of, 11;
+  on a raft, 16;
+  discovers gigantic fossil, 20;
+  determines nature of Unknown Mts., 136;
+  ill, 146;
+  recovers, 152;
+  leaves party, 160
+
+Stewart, Bishop, of Kanab, 167;
+  saw-mill of, on Kaibab, 181
+
+Stewart, John, goes with Powell to Grand Canyon, 172;
+  returns with news of gold find, 174
+
+Stillwater Canyon, beginning of, 110;
+  nature of walls, 111, 113;
+  house ruins in, 112;
+  width, 113;
+  end of, 113;
+  length, 114
+
+Summit Valley, 164
+
+Sumner Amphitheatre, 79
+
+Sumner, Jack, 7
+
+Supplies, nature of, 4;
+  to be brought in at three places, 7
+
+Surprise Valley, 241
+
+Swallow Canyon, 31
+
+Swallow Park, 197
+
+
+T
+
+Table Mountain, 198
+
+Tapeats Creek, 240
+
+Tavaputs Plateau, 80
+
+Teemaroomtekai, Uinkaret chief, 253
+
+Teram Picavu, 254
+
+Thompson, Professor Alvin Harris, vi., vii., ix., 7;
+  place in boat, 11;
+  duty of, 11;
+  first white man to explore Shewits country, 254;
+  to climb Mt. Dellenbaugh, 259;
+  buried at Arlington, 267
+
+Thompson, Mrs. Ellen Powell, 7, 165, 166, 172, 181, 195, 216, 259
+
+Tiravu Picavu, 254
+
+Tirtaan Aigles, slogan, 75, 267
+
+Tokerville, Mormon settlement, 190
+
+Tom, Pai Ute guide, 197;
+  leaves party, 199
+
+Toroweap Valley, 192
+
+Trachyte Creek, 208
+
+Trail up cliffs of Paria, 155
+
+_Tribune_, Chicago, letters to, from Clement Powell, v.
+
+Trin Alcove, 107
+
+Triplet Falls, 43
+
+Trumbull, Mt., why so called, 186;
+  climbed, 187, 192;
+  height of, 187
+
+Trumbull, Senator, 186
+
+Tuba, a Moki (Hopi), goes home with Jacob, 169;
+  ceremony on crossing Colorado River, 169
+
+
+U
+
+Uinkaret, Indians, 186;
+  region, 186;
+  plateau, 190;
+  chief, 253
+
+Uinta, Indian Agency, 7, 8, 71
+
+Uinta Mountains, 1;
+  first view of from river, 15
+
+Uinta River, pass mouth of, 76;
+  arrival at, 66;
+  Powell goes ahead to, 56;
+  mouth astronomically determined, 95
+
+Uinta Utes, 61
+
+Undine Springs, 103
+
+Union Pacific Railway, crossing of Green River, 3;
+  _see_ Descent _and_ Distance
+
+Unknown country, the, 95, 96, 199, 200, 201, 202
+
+Unknown Mountains (Henry Mts.) viii., 104, 127, 133;
+  Steward determines nature of, 136;
+  position of Dirty Devil (Fremont) River with reference to, 199;
+  arrive at, 207;
+  map of, 207
+
+Untokarowits, Pai Ute name for F. S. Dellenbaugh, 250
+
+Utah Southern Railway finished to Lehi, 262
+
+Utah, from, into Colorado, 31
+
+Utes of Wonsits Valley, Uinta and White River, 61
+
+Ute Crossing of Colorado in Uinkaret region, 188
+
+Ute Ford, the (El Vado de los Padres), 148
+
+Ute law as applied to capture, 71
+
+
+V
+
+Van Buren, Gentile settler on the Sevier, 266
+
+Vasey's Paradise, 219
+
+Vermilion Cliffs, 158, 164;
+  length of, 164
+
+Vermilion River, 31
+
+Virgin Mountains, 194
+
+Virgin River, canyon of, explored down to Shunesburg, 248;
+  Little Zion or Mookoontoweap Valley of, 190
+
+Volunteers march from Salt Lake to Denver, 68
+
+Voyage, Canyon, the end of, 242
+
+
+W
+
+Walcott, Professor, vii.
+
+Walker House, Salt Lake City, 267
+
+Wasatch Cliffs, 200
+
+Wheeler, Lieut. George M., goes up Colorado to Diamond Creek, 145
+
+Whirlpool Canyon, 53;
+  end of, 55;
+  descent in, 56
+
+Whirlpools described, 239
+
+Whiskey not taken, 6
+
+White, James, 2;
+  story of his trip through canyons disproved, v.
+
+White River, 66;
+  journey down, 69;
+  pass mouth, 76
+
+White River Utes, 61
+
+Whitmore, Dr., killed by Navajos, 169;
+  ranch, 188
+
+Wild Band Pocket, 251
+
+Winnie's Grotto, 35
+
+Winsor, of Pipe Spring, 185;
+  Castle, 185
+
+Winter quarters, 1872-73, 260
+
+Witch Water-pocket (Innupin Picavu), 251
+
+Wolfskill, William, pioneer, 94
+
+Wolves, 161, 162, 165
+
+Wonsits Tiravu, 254
+
+Wonsits Valley, 60
+
+Woonoopits, _see_ Oonupits
+
+Workman's Ranch, 190
+
+Wreckage found in Lodore, 41
+
+Wyoming, from, into Utah, 16
+
+
+Y
+
+Yampa River, 48, 49;
+  Powell on it in 1868, 50;
+  goes up, in boat, 50
+
+Young, Brigham, 170, 185;
+  Alfred, 187
+
+
+-----------------------------------------------------------------
+|  Transcriber's Notes:                                         |
+|                                                               |
+|  The original contained inconsistencies in spelling and       |
+|  hypenation.  The following variations were retained:         |
+|                                                               |
+|          air-line        airline                              |
+|          arm-chair       armchair                             |
+|          arrow-heads     arrowheads                           |
+|          ball-room       ballroom                             |
+|          bow-knot        bowknot                              |
+|          near-by         nearby                               |
+|          row-lock        rowlock                              |
+|          sand-bank       sandbank                             |
+|          school-house    schoolhouse                          |
+|          ship-shape      shipshape                            |
+|          south-westerly  southwesterly                        |
+|          up-stream       upstream                             |
+|          Clarkson        Clarkston                            |
+|          Fremont         Fremont                              |
+|          Koneco          Koneco                               |
+|          De Motte        DeMotte                              |
+|                                                               |
+|  The following typographical errors in the original were      |
+|  corrected:                                                   |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg  62:  "eaving" to "leaving"                           |
+|               ("leaving us hardly a rock")                    |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg 175:  "bame" to "came"                                |
+|               ("came to the edge")                            |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg 198:  added "of"                                      |
+|               ("like the roof of a house")                    |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg 220: "bat-battened" to "battened"                     |
+|               ("hatches firmly battened")                     |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg 229: "dashig" to "dashing"                            |
+|               ("water was dashing")                           |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg 250: "prononnced" to "pronounced"                     |
+|               ("in their language pronounced")                |
+|                                                               |
+|      Pg 273: "Canyon" to "Kanab Canyon"                       |
+|              ("Kanab Canyon, Journey up")                     |
+|                                                               |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's A Canyon Voyage, by Frederick S. Dellenbaugh
+
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