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diff --git a/21224.txt b/21224.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9899dc0 --- /dev/null +++ b/21224.txt @@ -0,0 +1,14679 @@ +Project Gutenberg's The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics, by Franklin Beech + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics + A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and Student + +Author: Franklin Beech + +Release Date: April 27, 2007 [EBook #21224] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DYEING OF COTTON FABRICS *** + + + + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Labyrinths and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + +THE + +DYEING OF COTTON FABRICS + +_A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK FOR THE DYER AND STUDENT_ + +BY + +FRANKLIN BEECH + +PRACTICAL COLOURIST AND CHEMIST + +_ILLUSTRATED BY FORTY-FOUR ENGRAVINGS_ + +LONDON SCOTT, GREENWOOD & CO. 19 LUDGATE HILL, E.C. + +1901 + +[_All rights reserved_] + + + +PREFACE. + + +In writing this little book the author believes he is supplying a want +which most Students and Dyers of Cotton Fabrics have felt--that of a +small handbook clearly describing the various processes and operations +of the great industry of dyeing Cotton. + +The aim has not been to produce a very elaborate treatise but rather a +book of a convenient size, and in order to do so it has been necessary +to be brief and to omit many matters that would rightfully find a place +in a larger treatise, but the author hopes that nothing of importance +has been omitted. The most modern processes have been described in some +detail; care has been taken to select those which experience shows to be +thoroughly reliable and to give good results. + +FRANKLIN BEECH. + +_May, 1901._ + + + + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER I. + PAGE +STRUCTURE AND CHEMISTRY OF THE COTTON FIBRE 1 + Action of Alkalies 6 + Action of Acids on Cellulose 9 + Action of Sulphuric Acid on Cotton 10 + Action of Hydrochloric Acid 11 + Action of Nitric Acid 12 + Action of Oxidising Agents on Cellulose or Cotton 16 + +CHAPTER II. + +SCOURING AND BLEACHING OF COTTON 23 + Stains and Damages in Bleached Goods 50 + +CHAPTER III. + +DYEING MACHINERY AND DYEING MANIPULATIONS 53 + Hand Dyeing 53 + Dyeing Machines 57 + Dyeing, Slubbing, Sliver or Carded Cotton and Wool 58 + Cop Dyeing 64 + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE OF COTTON DYEING 82 + (1) Direct Dyeing 85 + (2) Direct Dyeing followed by Fixation with Metallic Salts 112 + (3) Direct Dyeing followed by Fixation with Developers 128 + (4) Direct Dyeing followed by Fixation with Couplers 139 + (5) Dyeing on Tannic Mordant 147 + (6) Dyeing on Metallic Mordants 156 + (7) Production of Colour Direct upon Cotton Fibres 181 + (8) Dyeing Cotton by Impregnation with Dye-stuff Solution 198 + +CHAPTER V. + +DYEING UNION (MIXED COTTON AND WOOL) FABRICS 208 + +CHAPTER VI. + +DYEING HALF SILK (COTTON-SILK, SATIN) FABRICS 225 + Method of Dyeing 225 + +CHAPTER VII. + +OPERATIONS FOLLOWING DYEING 239 + Washing, Soaping, Drying 239 + +CHAPTER VIII. + +TESTING OF THE COLOUR OF DYED FABRICS 257 + +CHAPTER IX. + +EXPERIMENTAL DYEING AND COMPARATIVE DYE TESTING 262 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + +FIG. PAGE +1. Cotton Fibre 5 +1A. Cross-section of Cotton Fibre 5 +2. Mercerised Cotton Fibre 7 +2A. Cross-section of Mercerised Cotton Fibre 7 +3. Silkified Cotton Fibre 9 +3A. Cross-section of Silkified Cotton Fibre 9 +4. Mather & Platt's Low-pressure Bleaching Kier 31 +5. Mather & Platt's Yarn-bleaching Kier 49 +6. Rectangular Dye-tank 54 +7. Round Dye-tub 54 +8. Section of Dye-vat 56 +9. Delahunty's Dyeing Machine 58 +10. Obermaier Dyeing Machine 59 +11. Holliday's Yarn-dyeing Machine 60 +12. Klauder-Weldon Dyeing Machine 62 +13. Graemiger Cop-dyeing Machine 65 +14. Graemiger Cop-dyeing Machine 66 +15. Beaumont's Cop-dyeing Machine 67 +16. Warp-dyeing Machine 70 +17. Warp-dyeing Machine 71 +18. Dye-jiggers 72 +19. Dye-jigger 73 +20. Jig Wince 75 +21. Cloth-dyeing Machine 76 +22. Dye Beck 77 +23. Holliday's Machine for Hawking Cloth 78 +24. Continuous Dyeing Machine 79 +25. Padding Machine 80 +26. Padding Machine 81 +27. Dye-tub for Paranitroaniline Red 191 +28. Padding Machine for Paranitroaniline Red 192 +29. Developing Machine for Paranitroaniline Red 194 +30. Indigo Dye-vat for Cloth 199 +31. Squeezing Rollers 240 +32. Yarn-washing Machine 243 +33. Dye-house Washing Machine 244 +34. Cloth-washing Machine 245 +35. Cloth-washing Machine 247 +36. Washing and Soaping Vats 248 +37. Steaming Cottage 249 +38. Steaming and Ageing Chamber 250 +39. Hydro-extractor 251 +40. Hydro-extractor 252 +41. Automatic Yarn-dryer 253 +42. Truck Yarn-dryer 254 +43. Drying Cylinders 255 +44. Experimental Dye-bath 263 + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +STRUCTURE AND CHEMISTRY OF THE COTTON FIBRE. + + +There is scarcely any subject of so much importance to the bleacher, +textile colourist or textile manufacturer as the structure and chemistry +of the cotton fibre with which he has to deal. By the term chemistry we +mean not only the composition of the fibre substance itself, but also +the reactions it is capable of undergoing when brought into contact with +various chemical substances--acids, alkalies, salts, etc. These +reactions have a very important bearing on the operations of bleaching +and dyeing of cotton fabrics. + +A few words on vegetable textile fibres in general may be of interest. +Fibres are met with in connection with plants in three ways. + +First, as cuticle or ciliary fibres or hairs; these are of no practical +use, being much too short for preparing textile fabrics from, but they +play an important part in the physiology of the plant. + +Second, as seed hairs; that is fibres that are attached to the seeds of +many plants, such, for instance, as the common thistle and dandelion; +the cotton fibre belongs to this group of seed hairs, while there are +others, kapok, etc., that have been tried from time to time in spinning +and weaving, but without much success. These seed hairs vary much in +length, from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inches or even 2 inches; each fibre +consists of a single unit. Whether it is serviceable as a textile fibre +depends upon its structure, which differs in different plants, and also +upon the quantity available. + +The third class of fibre, which is by far the most numerous, consists of +those found lying between the bark or outer cuticle and the true woody +tissues of the plant. This portion is known as the bast, and hence these +fibres are known as "bast fibres". They are noticeable on account of the +great length of the fibres, in some cases upwards of 6 feet, which can +be obtained; but it should be pointed out that these long fibres are not +the unit fibres, but are really bundles of the ultimate fibres +aggregated together to form one long fibre, as found in and obtained +from the plant. Thus the ultimate fibres of jute are really very +short--from 1/10 to 1/8 of an inch in length; those of flax are somewhat +longer. Jute, flax, China grass and hemp are common fibres which are +derived from the bast of the plants. + +There is an important point of difference between seed fibres and bast +fibres, that is in the degree of purity. While the seed fibres are +fairly free from impurities--cotton rarely containing more than 5 per +cent.--the bast fibres contain a large proportion of impurity, from 25 +to 30 per cent. as they are first obtained from the plant, and this +large quantity has much influence on the extent and character of the +treatments to which they are subjected. + +As regards the structure of the fibres, it will be sufficient to say +that while seed hairs are cylindrical and tubular and have thin walls, +bast fibres are more or less polygonal in form and are not essentially +tubular, having thick walls and small central canals. + +=The Cotton Fibre.=--The seed hairs of the cotton plant are separated +from the seeds by the process of ginning, and they then pass into +commerce as raw cotton. In this condition the fibre is found to consist +of the actual fibrous substance itself, containing, however, about 8 per +cent. of hygroscopic or natural moisture, and 5 per cent. of impurities +of various kinds, which vary in amount and in kind in various +descriptions of cotton. In the process of manufacture into cotton +cloths, and as the material passes through the operations of bleaching, +dyeing or printing, the impurities are eliminated. + +=Impurities of the Cotton Fibre.=--Dr. E. Schunck made an investigation +many years ago into the character of the impurities, and found them to +consist of the following substances:-- + +=Cotton Wax.=--This substance bears a close resemblance to carnauba wax. +It is lighter than water, has a waxy lustre, is somewhat translucent, is +easily powdered, and melts below the boiling point of water. It is +insoluble in water, but dissolves in alcohol and in ether. When boiled +with weak caustic soda it melts but is not dissolved by the alkali; it +can, however, be dissolved by boiling with alcoholic caustic potash. +This wax is found fairly uniformly distributed over the surface of the +cotton fibre, and it is due to this fact that raw cotton is wetted by +water only with difficulty. + +=Fatty Acids.=--A solid, fatty acid, melting at 55 deg. C. is also present +in cotton. Probably stearic acid is the main constituent of this fatty +acid. + +=Colouring Matter.=--Two brown colouring matters, both containing +nitrogen, can be obtained from raw cotton. One of these is readily +soluble in alcohol, the other only sparingly so. The presence in +relatively large quantities of these bodies accounts for the brown +colour of Egyptian and some other dark-coloured varieties of cotton. + +=Pectic Acid.=--This is the chief impurity found in raw cotton. It can +be obtained in the form of an amorphous substance of a light yellow +colour, not unlike gum in appearance. It is soluble in boiling water, +and the solution has a faint acid reaction. Acids and many metallic +salts, such as mercury, chloride and lead acetate, precipitate pectic +acid from its solutions. Alkalies combine with it, and these compounds +form brown substances, are but sparingly soluble in water, and many of +them can be precipitated out by addition of neutral salts, like sodium +and ammonium chlorides. + +=Albumens.=--A small quantity of albuminous matter is found among the +impurities of cotton. + +=Structure of the Cotton Fibre.=--The cotton fibre varies in length from +1 to 2 inches, not only in fibres of the same class but also in fibres +from different localities--Indian fibres varying from 0.8 in the +shortest to 1.4 in the longest stapled varieties; Egyptian cotton fibres +range from 1.1 to 1.6 inches long; American cotton ranges from 0.8 in +the shortest to 2 inches in the longest fibres. The diameter is about +1/1260 of an inch. When seen under the microscope fully ripe cotton +presents the appearance of irregularly twisted ribbons, with thick +rounded edges. The thickest part is the root end, or point of attachment +to the seed. The free end terminates in a point. The diameter is fairly +uniform through 3/4 to 7/8 of its length, the rest is taper. In Fig. 1 +is given some illustrations of the cotton fibre, showing this twisted +and ribbon-like structure, while in Fig. 1A is given some transverse +sections of the fibre. These show that it is a collapsed cylinder, the +walls being of considerable thickness when compared with the internal +bore or canal. + +Perfectly developed, well-formed cotton fibres always present this +appearance. But all commercial cottons contain more or less of fibres +which are not perfectly developed or are unripe. These are known as +"dead fibres"; they do not spin well and they do not dye well. On +examination under the microscope it is seen that these fibres have not +the flattened, twisted appearance of the ripe fibres, but are flatter, +and the central canal is almost obliterated and the fibres are but +little twisted. Dead fibres are thin, brittle and weak. + +=Composition of the Cotton Fibres.=--Of all the vegetable textile fibres +cotton is found to have the simplest chemical composition and to be, as +it were, the type substance of all such fibres, the others differing +from it in several respects. When stripped of the comparatively small +quantities of impurities, cotton is found to consist of a substance to +which the name of cellulose has been given. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1.--Cotton Fibre.] +[Illustration: FIG. 1A.] + +Cellulose is a compound of the three elements, carbon, hydrogen and +oxygen, in the proportions shown in the following analysis:-- + +Carbon, 44.2 per cent., +Hydrogen, 6.3 per cent., +Oxygen, 49.5 per cent., + +which corresponds to the empirical formula C{6}H{10}O{5}, which shows +it to belong to the group of carbo-hydrates, that is, bodies which +contain the hydrogen and oxygen present in them in the proportion in +which they are present in water, namely H{2}O. + +Cellulose may be obtained in a pure condition from cotton by treatment +with alkalies, followed by washing, and by treatment with alkaline +hypochlorites, acids, washing and, finally, drying. As thus obtained it +is a white substance having the form of the fibre from which it is +procured, showing a slight lustre, and is slightly translucent. The +specific gravity is 1.5, it being heavier than water. It is +characterised by being very inert, a property of considerable value from +a technical point of view, as enabling the fibres to stand the various +operations of bleaching, dyeing, printing, finishing, etc. Nevertheless, +by suitable means, cellulose can be made to undergo various chemical +decompositions which will be noted in some detail. + +Cellulose on exposure to the air will absorb moisture or water. This is +known as hygroscopic moisture, or "water of condition". The amount in +cotton is about 8 per cent., and it has a very important bearing on the +spinning properties of the fibre, as it makes the fibre soft and +elastic, while absolutely dry cotton fibre is stiff, brittle and +non-elastic; hence it is easier to spin and weave cotton in moist +climates or weather than in dry climates or weather. Cotton cellulose is +insoluble in all ordinary solvents, such as water, ether, alcohol, +chloroform, benzene, etc., and these agents have no influence in any way +on the material, but it is soluble in some special solvents that will be +noted later on. + + +ACTION OF ALKALIES. + +The action of alkalies on cellulose or cotton is one of great importance +in view of the universal use of alkaline liquors made from soda or +caustic soda in the scouring, bleaching and dyeing of cotton, while +great interest attaches to the use of caustic soda in the "mercerising" +of cotton. + +Dilute solutions of the caustic alkalies, caustic soda or caustic +potash, of from 2 to 7 per cent. strength, have no action on cellulose +or cotton, in the cold, even when a prolonged digestion of the fibre +with the alkaline solution takes place. Caustic alkali solutions of from +1 to 2 per cent. strength have little or no action even when used at +high temperatures and under considerable pressure--a fact of very great +importance from a bleacher's point of view, as it enables him to subject +cotton to a boil in kiers, with such alkaline solutions at high +pressures, for the purpose of scouring the cotton, without damaging the +fibre itself. + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.--Mercerised Cotton Fibre.] +[Illustration: FIG. 2A.] + +Solutions of caustic soda of greater strength than 3 per cent. tend, +when boiled under pressure, to convert the cellulose into soluble +bodies, and as much as 20 per cent. of the fibre may become dissolved +under such treatment. The action of strong solutions of caustic soda or +caustic potash upon cellulose or cotton is somewhat different. Mercer +found that solutions containing 10 per cent. of alkali had a very +considerable effect upon the fibre, causing it to swell up and become +gelatinous and transparent in its structure, each individual cotton +fibre losing its ribbon-like appearance, and assuming a rod-like form, +the central canal being more or less obliterated. This is shown in Fig. +2 and 2A, where the fibre is shown as a rod and the cross section in +Fig. 2A has no central canal. The action which takes place is as +follows: The cellulose enters into a combination with the alkali and +there is formed a sodium cellulose, which has the formula +C{6}H{10}O{5}2NaOH. This alkali cellulose, however, is not a stable +body; by washing with water the alkali is removed, and hydrated +cellulose is obtained, which has the formula C{6}H{10}O{5}H{2}O. +Water removes the whole of the alkali, but alcohol only removes one +half. It has been observed that during the process of washing with water +the fibre shrinks very much. This shrinkage is more particularly to be +observed in the case of cotton. As John Mercer was the first to point +out the action of the alkaline solutions on cotton, the process has +become known as "mercerisation". + +Solutions of caustic soda of 1.000 or 20 deg. Tw. in strength have very +little mercerising action, and it is only by prolonged treatment that +mercerisation can be effected. It is interesting to observe that the +addition of zinc oxide to the caustic solution increases its mercerising +powers. Solutions of 1.225 to 1.275 (that is from 45 deg. to 55 deg. Tw. in +strength) effect the mercerisation almost immediately in the cold, and +this is the best strength at which to use caustic soda solutions for +this purpose. In addition to the change brought about by the shrinking +and thickening of the material, the mercerised fibres are stronger than +the untreated fibres, and at the same time they have a stronger affinity +for dyes, a piece of cloth mercerised taking up three times as much +colouring matter as a piece of unmercerised cloth from the same +dye-bath. + +The shrinkage of the cotton, which takes place during the operation of +washing with water, was for a long time a bar to any practical +application of the "mercerising" process, but some years ago Lowe +ascertained that by conducting the operation while the cotton was +stretched or in a state of tension this shrinkage did not take place; +further, Thomas and Prevost found that the cotton so treated gained a +silky lustre, and it has since been ascertained that this lustre is +most highly developed with the long-stapled Egyptian and Sea Island +cottons. This mercerising under tension is now applied on a large scale +to produce silkified cotton. When viewed under the microscope, the +silkified cotton fibres have the appearance shown in Fig. 3, long +rod-like fibres nearly if not quite cylindrical; the cross section of +those fibres has the appearance shown in Fig. 3A. This structure fully +accounts for the silky lustre possessed by the mercerised fibres. Silky +mercerised cotton has very considerable affinity for dye-stuffs, taking +them up much more readily from dye-baths, and it is dyed in very +brilliant shades. + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.--Silkified Cotton Fibre.] + +[Illustration: FIG 3A.] + +In the chapter on Scouring and Bleaching of Cotton, some reference will +be made to the action of alkalies on cotton. + + +ACTION OF ACIDS ON CELLULOSE. + +The action of acids on cellulose is a very varied one, being dependent +upon several factors, such as the particular acid used, the strength of +the acid, duration of action, temperature, etc. As a rule, organic +acids--for example acetic, oxalic, citric, tartaric--have no action on +cellulose or cotton. Solutions of sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid of +2 per cent. strength have practically no action in the cold, and if +after immersion the cotton or cellulose be well washed there is no +change of any kind. This is important, as in certain operations of +bleaching cotton and other vegetable fibres it is necessary to sour +them, which could not be done if acids acted on them, but it is +important to thoroughly wash the goods afterwards. When the acid +solutions are used at the boil they have a disintegrating effect on the +cellulose, the latter being converted into hydrocellulose. When dried, +the cellulose is very brittle and powdery, which in the case of cotton +yarn being so treated would show itself by the yarn becoming tender and +rotten. The degree of action varies with the temperature (the higher +this is the stronger the action), and also according to the strength of +the acid solution. Thus a 10 per cent. solution of sulphuric acid used +at a temperature of 80 deg. C. begins to act on cotton after about five +minutes' immersion, in half an hour there is a perceptible amount of +disintegration, but the complete conversion of the cotton into +hydrocellulose requires one hour's immersion. A dilute acid with 8 +volumes of water, used in the cold, takes three hours' immersion before +any action on the cotton becomes evident. + + +ACTION OF SULPHURIC ACID ON COTTON. + +When cellulose (cotton) is immersed in strong sulphuric acid the cotton +becomes gradually dissolved; as the action progresses cellulose +sulphates are formed, and some hydrolytic action takes place, with the +formation of sugar. This fact has long been known, but only recently has +it been shown that dextrose was the variety of sugar which was formed. +On diluting the strong acid solution with water there is precipitated +out the hydro or oxycelluloses that have been formed, while the +cellulose sulphates are retained in solution. + +By suitable means the calcium, barium, or lead salts of these +cellulose-sulphuric acids can be prepared. Analysis of them shows that +these salts undergo hydrolysis, and lose half their sulphuric acid. + +The action of strong sulphuric acid has a practical application in the +production of parchment paper; unsized paper is immersed in strong acid +of the proper strength for about a minute, and then immediately rinsed +in water. The acid acts upon the surface of the paper and forms the +cellulose-sulphuric acid which remains attached to the surface. On +passing into the water this is decomposed, the acid is washed away, and +the cellulose is deposited in an amorphous form on the paper, filling up +its pores and rendering it waterproof and grease-proof. Such papers are +now largely used for packing purposes. + + +ACTION OF HYDROCHLORIC ACID. + +Dilute hydrochloric acid of from 1 deg. to 2 deg. Tw. in strength, used in the +cold, has no action on cellulose. Cotton immersed in acids of the +strength named and then well washed in water is not materially affected +in any way, which is a feature of some value in connection with the +bleaching of cotton, where the material has to be treated at two points +in the process with weak acids. Boiling dilute hydrochloric acid of 10 deg. +Tw. disintegrates cellulose very rapidly. The product is a white very +friable powder, which if viewed under the microscope appears to be +fragments of the fibre that has been used to prepare it. The product has +the composition C{12}H{22}O{11}, and is therefore a hydrate of +cellulose, the latter having undergone hydrolysis by taking up the +elements of water according to the equation 2C{6}H{10}O{5} + H{2}O += C{12}H{22}O{11}. By further digestion with the acid, the +hydrocellulose, as it is called, undergoes molecular change, and is +converted into dextrine. In composition hydrocellulose resembles the +product formed by the addition of sulphuric acid which has received the +name of amyloid. It differs from cellulose in containing free carboxyl, +CO, groups, while its hydroxyl groups, HO, are much more active in their +chemical reactions. + +Hydrocellulose is soluble in nitric acid, 1.5 specific gravity, without +undergoing oxidation. Nitrates are formed varying in composition. + +The formation of hydrocellulose has a very important bearing in woollen +manufacture. It is practically impossible to obtain wool free from +vegetable fibres, and it is often desirable to separate these vegetable +fibres. For this purpose the goods are passed into a bath of +hydrochloric acid or of weak sulphuric acid. On drying the acid converts +the cotton or vegetable fibre into hydrocellulose which, being friable +or powdery, can be easily removed, while the wool not having been acted +on by the acid remains quite intact. The process is known as +"carbonising". It may not only be done by means of the acids named but +also by the use of acid salts, such as aluminium chloride, which on +being heated are decomposed into free acid and basic oxide. For the same +reason it is important to avoid the use of these bodies, aluminium +chloride and sulphate, zinc and magnesium chlorides, etc., in the +treatment of cotton fabrics; as in finishing processes, where the goods +are dried afterwards, there is a great liability to form hydrocellulose +with the accompaniment of the tendering of the goods. + + +ACTION OF NITRIC ACID. + +The action of nitric acid on cellulose is a variable one, depending on +many factors, strength of acid, duration of action and temperature. +Naturally as nitric acid is a strong oxidising agent the action of +nitric acid on cellulose is essentially in all cases that of an oxidant, +but the character of the product which is obtained varies very much +according to the conditions just noted. When cellulose or cotton in any +form is immersed in nitric acid of 1.4 to 1.5 specific gravity for a +moment, and the fibre be well washed, there is a formation of hydrate of +cellulose which has a gelatinous nature. This is deposited on the rest +of the material, which is not materially affected so far as regards +strength and appearance, but its power of affinity for dyes is +materially increased. There is some shrinkage in the size of the cotton +or paper acted upon. + +Nitric acid changes all kinds of cellulose into nitro products, the +composition of which depends upon the strength of the acid, the duration +of treatment, and one or two other factors. The nitrocelluloses are all +highly inflammable bodies, the more highly nitrated burning with +explosive force. They are produced commercially and are known as "gun +cotton" or "pyroxyline". The most highly nitrated body forms the basis +of the explosive variety; the least highly nitrated forms that of the +soluble gun cotton used for making collodion for photographic and other +purposes. + +The products formed by the action of nitric acid are usually considered +to be nitrocelluloses. It would appear that they are more correctly +described as cellulose-nitrates, for analysis indicates the presence of +the NO{3} group, which is characteristic of nitrates, and not of the +NO{2} group, which is the feature of nitro bodies in general. Further, +nitro compounds, when subject to the action of reducing agents, are +converted into amido compounds, as is the case, for instance, with +nitro-benzene, C{6}H{5}NO{2}, into aniline, C{6}H{5}NH{2}, or with +nitro-naphthalene, C{10}H{7}NO{2}, which changes into naphthylamine, +C{10}H{7}NH{2}. + +But the nitric acid derivatives of cellulose are not capable of +conversion by reducing agents into similar amido compounds. They have +the following properties, which accord more closely with nitrates than +with nitric bodies: alkalies remove the nitric acid; cold sulphuric acid +expels the nitric acid, cellulose sulphates being formed; boiling with +ferrous sulphate and hydrochloric acid causes the elimination of the +nitric acid as nitric oxide (on which reaction a method for determining +the degree of nitration of gun cotton is based). It is best therefore to +consider them as cellulose nitrates. Several well-characterised +cellulose nitrates have been prepared, but is an exceedingly difficult +matter to obtain any one in a state of purity, the commercial articles +being always mixtures of two or three. Those that are best known and of +the most importance are the following:-- + +Cellulose Hexa-nitrate, C{6}H{4}O{5}(NO{3}){6}. This forms the +principal portion of the commercial explosive gun cotton, and is made +when a mixture of strong nitric acid and strong sulphuric acid is +allowed to act on cotton at from 50 to 55 deg. F. for twenty-four hours. The +longer the action is prolonged, the more completely is the cotton +converted into the nitrate, with a short duration the finished product +contains lower nitrates. This hexa-nitrate is insoluble in ether, +alcohol, or in a mixture of those solvents, likewise in glacial acetic +acid or in methyl alcohol. + +Cellulose Penta-nitrate, C{6}H{5}O{5}(NO{3}){5}, is found in +explosive gun cotton to a small extent. When gun cotton is dissolved in +nitric acid and sulphuric acid is added, the penta-nitrate is thrown +down as a precipitate. It is not soluble in alcohol, but is so in a +mixture of ether and alcohol, it is also slightly soluble in acetic +acid. Solutions of caustic potash convert it into the di-nitrate. + +Cellulose Tetra-nitrate, C{6}H{6}O{5}(NO{3}){4}, and Cellulose +Tri-nitrate, C{6}H{7}O{5},(NO{3}){3}, form the basis of the +pyroxyline or soluble gun cotton of commerce. It has not been found +possible to separate them owing to their behaviour to solvents being +very similar. These nitrates are obtained by treating cotton with nitric +acid for twenty or thirty minutes. They are characterised by being more +soluble than the higher nitrates and less inflammable. They are freely +soluble in a mixture of ether and alcohol, from which solutions they are +precipitated in a gelatinous form on adding chloroform. Acetic ether, +methyl alcohol, acetone and glacial acetic acid, will also dissolve +these nitrates. + +Cellulose Di-nitrate, C{6}H{8}O{5}(NO{3}){2}, is obtained when +cellulose is treated with hot dilute nitric acid, or when the high +nitrates are boiled with solutions of caustic soda or caustic potash. +Like the last-mentioned nitrates it is soluble in a mixture of alcohol +and ether, in acetic ether, and in absolute alcohol. The solution of the +pyroxyline nitrates in ether and alcohol is known as collodion, and is +used in photography and in medical and surgical work. + +One of the most interesting applications of the cellulose nitrates is in +the production of artificial silk. Several processes, the differences +between which are partly chemical and partly mechanical, have been +patented for the production of artificial silk, those of Lehner and of +Chardonnet being of most importance. They all depend upon the fact that +when a solution of cellulose nitrate is forced through a fine aperture +or tube, the solvent evaporates almost immediately, leaving a gelatinous +thread of the cellulose nitrate which is very tough and elastic, and +possesses a brilliant lustre. Chardonnet dissolves the cellulose nitrate +in a mixture of alcohol and ether, and the solution is forced through +fine capillary tubes into hot water, when the solvents immediately +evaporate, leaving the cellulose nitrate in the form of very fine fibre, +which by suitable machinery is drawn away as fast as it is formed. +Lehner's process is very similar to that of Chardonnet. Lehner uses a +solution of cellulose nitrate in ether and alcohol, and adds a small +quantity of sulphuric acid; by the adoption of the latter ingredient he +is able to use a stronger solution of cellulose nitrate, 10 to 15 per +cent., than would otherwise be possible, and thereby obtains a stronger +thread which resists the process of drawing much better than is the case +when only a weak solution in alcohol and ether is employed. By +subsequent treatment the fibre can be denitrated and so rendered less +inflammable. + +The denitrated fibres thus prepared very closely resemble silk in their +lustre; they are not quite so soft and supple, nor are they in any way +so strong as ordinary silk fibre of the same diameter. + +Artificial silk can be dyed in the same manner as ordinary silk. + + +ACTION OF OXIDISING AGENTS ON CELLULOSE OR COTTON + +Cellulose resists fairly well the action of weak oxidising agents; still +too prolonged an action of weak oxidising agents has some influence upon +the cotton fibre, and it may be worth while to point out the action of +some bodies having an oxidising effect. + +Nitric acid of about 1.15 specific gravity has little action in the +cold, and only slowly on it when heated. The action is one of oxidation, +the cellulose being transformed into a substance known as oxycellulose. +This oxycellulose is white and flocculent. It tends to form gelatinous +hydrates with water, and has a composition corresponding to the formula +C{6}H{10}O{6}. It is soluble in a mixture of nitric and sulphuric +acids, and on diluting this solution with water a tri-nitrate +precipitates out. A weak solution of soda dissolves this oxycellulose +with a yellow colour, while strong sulphuric acid forms a pink +colouration. It is important to note that nitric acid of the strength +given does not convert all the cellulose into oxycellulose, but there +are formed also carbonic and oxalic acids. When cotton is passed into +strong solutions of bleaching powder and of alkaline hypochlorites and +then dried, it is found to be tendered very considerably. This effect of +bleaching powder was first observed some thirteen years ago by George +Witz, who ascribed the tendering of the cotton to the formation of an +oxycellulose. Although the composition of this particular oxycellulose +so formed has not yet been ascertained, there is reason to think that it +differs somewhat from the oxycellulose formed by the action of the weak +nitric acid. A notable property of the oxycellulose now under +consideration is its affinity for the basic coal-tar dyes, which it will +absorb directly. The oxycellulose is soluble in alkaline solutions. + +In the ordinary bleaching process there is considerable risk of the +formation of oxycellulose by the employment of the bleaching solutions +of too great a strength, or in allowing the goods to lie too long before +the final washing off. The presence of any oxycellulose in bleached +cotton may be readily determined by immersing it in a weak solution of +Methylene blue, when, if there be any oxycellulose present, the fibre +will take up some of the dye-stuff. + +Permanganate of potash is a very powerful oxidising agent. On cellulose +neutral solutions have but little action, either in the cold or when +heated. They may, therefore, be used for the bleaching of cotton or +other cellulose fibres. + +Alkaline solutions of permanganate convert the cellulose into +oxycellulose, which resembles the oxycellulose obtained by the action of +the nitric acid. + +Chromic acid, when used in the form of a solution, has but little action +on cellulose. In the presence of mineral acids, and used warm or +boiling, chromic acid oxidises cellulose into oxycellulose and other +products. + +It is therefore always advisable in carrying out any technical process +connected with cotton which involves its treatment with oxidising agents +of any kind, and where it is desired not to alter the cotton, to allow +these actions to be as short as possible. + +=Dyes and Cotton Dyeing.=--An account of the chemistry of the cotton +fibre would not be complete unless something is said about the reactions +involved in the processes of dyeing and printing cotton. This is a most +interesting subject and opens up quite a number of problems relating to +the combination of the fibre with colouring matter of various kinds, but +here only a brief outline of the principles that present themselves in +considering the behaviour of the cotton fibre as regards colouring +matter will be given. + +When the question is considered from a broad point of view, and having +regard to the various affinities of the dyes for cotton; we notice (1) +that there is a large number of dye-stuffs--the Benzo, Congo, Diamine, +Titan, Mikado, etc., dyes--that will dye the cotton from a plain bath or +from a bath containing salt, sodium sulphate, borax or similar salts; +(2) that there are dyes which, like Magenta, Safranine, Auramine and +Methyl violet, will not dye the cotton fibre direct, but require it to +be mordanted or prepared with tannic acid; (3) that there are some dyes +or rather colouring matters which, like Alizarine, Nitroso-resorcine, +barwood, logwood, etc., require alumina, chrome and iron mordants; (4) +that there are some dyes which, like the azo scarlet and azo colours in +general, cannot be used in cotton dyeing; (5) that there are a few dyes, +_i.e._, indigo, which do not come under this grouping. + +From the results of recent investigations into the chemistry of dyeing +it is now considered that for perfect dyeing to take place there must be +formed on the fibre a combination which is called a "colour lake," which +consists of at least two constituents; one of these is the dye-stuff or +the colouring matter itself, the other being either the fibre or a +mordant, if such has to be used. The question of the formation of colour +lakes is one connected with the molecular constitution of the colouring +matter, but much yet remains to be done before the proper functions and +mode of action of the various groups or radicles in the dye-stuffs can +be definitely stated. While the constitution of the dye-stuff is of +importance, that of the substance being dyed is also a factor in the +question of the conditions under which it is applied. + +In dealing with the first of the above groups of dyes, the direct dyes, +the colourist is somewhat at a loss to explain in what manner the +combination with the cotton fibre is brought about. The affinity of +cellulose for dyes appears to be so small and its chemical activities so +weak, that to assume the existence of a reaction between the dye-stuff +and the fibre, tending to the formation of a colour lake, seems to be +untenable. Then, again, the chemical composition and constitution of the +dyes of this group are so varied that an explanation which would hold +good for one might not do so for another. The relative fastness of the +dyes against washing and soaping precludes the idea of a merely +mechanical absorption of the dye by the fibre; on the other hand the +great difference in the fastness to soaping and light between the same +dyes on cotton and wool would show that there has not been a true +formation of colour lake. + +The dyeing of cotton with the second group of dyes is more easily +explained. The cotton fibre has some affinity for the tannic acid used +in preparing it and absorbs it from the mordanting bath. The tannic acid +has the property of combining with the basic constituents of these dyes +and forms a true colour lake, which is firmly fixed on the fibre. The +colour lake can be formed independently of the fibre by bringing the +tannic acid and the dye into contact with one another. + +In the case of the dyes of the third group, the formation of a colour +lake between the metallic oxide and the colouring matter can be readily +demonstrated. In dyeing with these colours the cotton is first of all +impregnated with the mordanting oxide, and afterwards placed in the +dye-bath, the mordant already fixed on the fibre then reacts with the +dye, and absorbs it, thus dyeing the cotton. To some extent the dyeing +of cotton with the basic dyes of the second group and the mordant dyes +of the third group is almost a mechanical one, the cotton fibre taking +no part in it from a chemical point of view, but simply playing the part +of a base or foundation on which the colour lake may be formed. In the +case of the dyes of the fourth group, there being no chemical affinity +of the cotton known for them, these dyes cannot be used in a successful +manner; cotton will, if immersed in a bath containing them, more or less +mechanically take up some of the colour from the liquor, but such colour +can be almost completely washed out again, hence these dyes are not used +in cotton dyeing, although many attempts have been made to render them +available. + +Indigo is a dye-stuff that stands by itself. Its combination with the +cotton fibre is chiefly of a physical rather than a chemical nature; it +does not form colour lakes in the same way as Alizarine and Magenta do. + +Cellulose can be dissolved by certain metallic solutions and +preparations:-- + +(1) =Zinc Chloride.=--When cotton or other form of cellulose is heated +with a strong solution, 40 to 50 per cent., it slowly dissolves to a +syrupy liquid. On diluting this liquid with water the cellulose is +thrown down in a gelatinous form, but more or less hydrated, and +containing some zinc oxide, 18 to 25 per cent., in combination. + +(2) =Zinc Chloride and Hydrochloric Acid.=--When zinc chloride is +dissolved in hydrochloric acid a liquid is obtained which dissolves +cellulose; on dilution the cellulose is re-precipitated in a hydrated +form. It is worth noting that the solution is not a stable one: on +keeping, the cellulose changes its character and undergoes hydrolysis to +a greater or less extent. + +(3) =Ammoniacal Copper.=--When ammonia is added to a solution of copper +sulphate, there is formed at first a pale blue precipitate of copper +hydroxide, which on adding excess of ammonia dissolves to a deep blue +solution--a reaction highly characteristic of copper. The ammoniacal +copper solution thus prepared has, as was first observed by John Mercer, +the property of dissolving cellulose fairly rapidly, even in the cold. + +If instead of preparing the ammoniacal copper solution in the manner +indicated above, which results in its containing a neutral ammonium +salt, the copper hydroxide be prepared separately and then dissolved in +ammonia a solution is obtained which is stronger in its action. + +The cupra-ammonium solutions of cellulose are by no means stable but +change on keeping. When freshly prepared, the cellulose may be +precipitated from them almost unchanged by the addition of such bodies +as alcohol, sugar and solutions of neutral alkaline salts. On keeping +the cellulose undergoes more or less hydrolysis or even oxidation, for +it has been observed that oxycellulose is formed on prolonged digestion +of cellulose with cupra-ammonium solutions, while there is formed a +fairly large proportion of a nitrite. + +On adding lead acetate to the cupra-ammonium solution of cellulose, a +compound of lead oxide and cellulose of somewhat variable composition is +precipitated. It is of interest also to note that on adding metallic +zinc to the cupra-ammonium solution the copper is thrown out and a +solution containing zinc is obtained. + +This action of cupra-ammonium solutions on cellulose has been made the +basis for the production of the "Willesden" waterproof cloths. Cotton +cloths or paper are passed through these solutions of various degrees of +strength according to requirements, they are then passed through rollers +which causes the surface to become more compact. There is formed on the +surface of the goods a deposit of a gelatinous nature which makes the +surface more compact, and the fabric becomes waterproof in character +while the copper imparts to them a green colour and acts as a +preservative. The "Willesden" fabrics have been found very useful for a +variety of purposes. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +SCOURING AND BLEACHING OF COTTON. + + +Preparatory to the actual dyeing operations, it is necessary to treat +cotton in any condition--loose cotton, yarn, or piece--so that the +dyeing shall be properly done. Raw cotton contains many impurities, +mechanical and otherwise; cotton yarns accumulate dirt and impurities of +various kinds during the various spinning operations, while in weaving a +piece of cotton cloth it is practically impossible to keep it clean and +free from dirt, etc. Before the cotton can be dyed a perfectly level and +uniform shade, free from dark spots or light patches, these impurities +must be removed, and therefore the cotton is subjected to various +scouring or cleansing operations with the object of effecting this end. +Then again cotton naturally, especially Egyptian cotton, contains a +small quantity of a brown colouring matter, and this would interfere +with the purity of any pale tints of blue, rose, yellow, green, etc., +which may be dyed on the cotton, and so it becomes necessary to remove +this colour and render the cotton quite bright. This is commonly called +"bleaching". It is these preparatory processes that will be dealt with +in this chapter. + +=Scouring Cotton.=--When dark shades--blacks, browns, olives, sages, +greens, etc., are to be dyed it is not needful to subject the cotton to +a bleaching operation, but simply to a scouring by boiling it with soda +or caustic soda. This is very often-carried out in the same machine as +the goods will be dyed in; thus, for instance, in the case of pieces, +they would be charged in a jigger, this would be filled with a liquor +made from soda or from caustic soda, and the pieces run from end to end, +while the liquor is being heated to the boil--usually half to +three-quarters of an hour is sufficient. Then the alkali liquor is run +out, clean water run into the jigger and the pieces washed, after which +the dyes, etc., are run into the jigger and the dyeing done. There is +usually used 2 lb. to 3 lb. of caustic soda, or 3 lb. to 4 lb. of soda +for each 100 lb. of goods so treated. + +If the ordinary dyeing machines are not used for this purpose, then the +ordinary bleachers' kiers may be used. These will be described +presently. + +=Bleaching of Cotton.=--Cotton is bleached in the form of yarn, or in +the finished pieces. In the latter case the method depends very largely +on the nature of the fabric; it is obvious that fine fabrics, like +muslins or lace curtains, cannot stand the same rough treatment as a +piece of twilled calico will. Then, again, the bleaching process is +varied according to what is going to be done with the goods after they +are bleached; sometimes they are sent out as they leave the +bleach-house; again, they may have to be dyed or printed. In the first +case the bleach need not be of such a perfect character as in the last +case, which again must be more perfect than the second class of bleach. +There may be recognised:-- + +(1) Market or white bleach. +(2) Dyers or printers' bleach. +(3) Madder bleach. + +As the madder bleach is by far the most perfect of the three, and +practically includes the others, this will be described in detail, and +differences between it and the others will be then pointed out. A piece +is subjected to the madder bleach which has afterwards to be printed +with madder or alizarine. Usually in this kind of work the cloths are +printed with mordant colours, and then dyed in a bath of the dye-stuff. +This stains the whole of the piece, and to rid the cloth of the stain +where it has to be left white, it is subjected to a soap bath. Now, +unless the bleach has been thorough, the whites will be more or less +stained permanently, and to avoid this cloths which are to be printed +with alizarine colours are most thoroughly bleached. The madder bleach +of the present day generally includes the following series of +operations:-- + +(1) Stitching. +(2) Singeing. +(3) Singeing wash. +(4) Lime boil. +(5) Lime sour. +(6) Lye boil. +(7) Resin boil. +(8) Wash. +(9) Chemicing. +(10) White sour. + +(1) =Stitching.=--The pieces are fastened together by stitching into one +long rope, which is passed in a continuous manner through all operations +in which such a proceeding is possible. This stitching is done by +machines, the simplest of which is the donkey machine, whereby the ends +of the pieces, which are to be stitched together, are forced by a pair +of cogwheels working together on to the needle carrying a piece of +thread, this is then pulled through and forms a running stitch, a +considerable length of thread being left on each side so as to prevent +as far as possible the pulling asunder of the pieces by an accidental +drawing out of the thread. + +Birch's sewing machine is very largely used in bleach works. It consists +essentially of a Wilcox & Gibb machine fitted on a stand so as to be +driven by power. The pieces are carried under the needle by a large +wheel, the periphery of which contains a number of projecting pins that, +engaging in the cloth, carry it along. + +There is also a contrivance by which these pieces to be sewn can be kept +stretched, this takes the form of an arm with clips at the end, which +hold one end of the cloth while it is running through the machine. The +clip arrangement is automatic, and just before the end passes under the +needle it is released, and the arm flies back ready for the next piece; +it is, however, not necessary to use this arm always. This machine gives +a chain stitch sufficiently firm to resist a pull in the direction of +the length of the pieces, but giving readily to a pull at the end of the +thread. + +The Rayer & Lincoln machine is an American invention, and is much more +complicated than Birch's. It consists of a sewing machine mounted on the +periphery of a large revolving wheel. This carries a number of pins, +which, engaging in the cloth to be stitched, carry it under the needle +of the machine. Besides sewing the pieces together this machine is +fitted with a pair of revolving cutters which trim the ends of the +pieces as they pass through in a neat clean manner. There is also an +arrangement to mark the pieces as they are being stitched. Like Birch's +it produces a chain stitch. + +What is important in sewing the ends of pieces together is to get a firm +uniform stitch that lies level with the cloths without any knots +projecting, which would catch in the bleaching machinery during the +processes of bleaching, and this might lead to much damage being done. + +Should it be necessary to mark the pieces so that they can be recognised +after bleaching, the best thing to use is printers' ink. Gas tar is also +much used, and is very good for the purpose. Coloured inks do not resist +the bleaching sufficiently well to be used satisfactory. Vermilion and +Indian red are used for reds, yellow ochre is the fastest of the +yellows, there is no blue which will stand the process, and Guignet's +green is the only green that will at all resist the process, umber will +serve for brown. All these colours are used in the form of printing ink. + +The next operation is a very important one, which cannot be too +carefully carried out, that is:-- + +(2) =Singeing.=--For printing bleaches the cloths are singed. This has +for its object the removal from the surface of the cloth of the fine +fibres with which it is covered, and which would, if allowed to remain, +prevent the designs printed on from coming out with sufficient +clearness, giving them a blurred appearance. + +Singeing is done in various ways, by passing the cloth over a red-hot +copper plate, or over a red-hot revolving copper cylinder, or through a +coke flame, or through gas flames, and more recently over a rod of +platinum made red hot by electricity. + +Plate singeing is the oldest of these methods and is still largely used. +In this method a semi-cylindrical copper plate is heated in a suitable +furnace to a bright red heat, the cloths are rapidly passed over it, and +the loose fibres thereby burnt off. One great trouble is to keep the +plate at one uniform heat over the whole of its surface, some parts will +get hotter than others, and it is only by careful attention to the +firing of the furnace that this can be obtained. To get over these +difficulties Worral introduced a roller singeing machine in which the +plate was replaced by a revolving copper roller, heated by a suitable +furnace; the roller can be kept at a more uniform temperature than the +plate. The singe obtained by the plate and roller is good, the principal +fault being that if the cloths happen to get pressed down too much on +the hot plate the loose ends are not burnt off as they should be. With +both plate and roller the cloths are singed only on one side, and if +both sides require to be singed a second passage is necessary. Both +systems still retain their hold as the principal methods in use, +notwithstanding the introduction of more modern methods. + +Singeing by passing the cloths over a row of Bunsen burners has come +largely into use. This has the great advantage of being very cleanly, +and of doing the work very effectually, much more thoroughly than any +other method, which is due to the fact that while in the methods +described above only the loose fibres on the surface are burnt off; with +gas all the loose fibres are burnt off. This is brought about by the gas +flame passing straight through the cloth. It is not necessary to +describe the gas singeing machine in detail. Singeing machines should be +kept scrupulously clean and free from fluff, which is liable to collect +round them, and very liable to fire. Some machines are fitted with a +flue having a powerful draught which carries off this fluff, away from +any source of danger. + +(3) =Singeing Wash.=--After being singed the cloths are run through a +washing machine to remove by water as much of the loose charred fibres +as possible. The construction of a washing machine is well known. It +consists of a pair of large wooden rollers set above a trough containing +water and into which a constant stream of water flows. In the trough is +also fixed another wooden roller and the pieces are passed round this +bottom roller and between the top rollers. The cloth is passed through +and round the rollers several times in a spiral form so that it passes +through the water in the trough frequently, which is a great advantage, +as the wash is thus much more effectual. The pressure between the two +top rollers presses out any surplus water. The operation scarcely needs +any further description. + +(4) =Lime Boil.=--After the cloth leaves the singeing or grey wash, as +it is often called, it passes through the liming machine, which is made +very similar to the washing machine. In this it passes through milk of +lime, which should be made from freshly slaked lime. The latter maybe +prepared in a pasty form in a stone cistern. The lime used should be of +good quality, free from stones, badly burnt pieces or any other +insoluble material, so that when slaked it should give a fine smooth +pasty mass. + +Lime should not be slaked too long before using, as it absorbs carbonic +acid from the atmosphere, whereby carbonate of lime is formed, and this +is useless for liming cloth. The pasty slaked lime may be mixed with +water to form the milk of lime, and this can be run from the cistern in +which it is prepared into the liming machine as it is required; the +supply pipe should be run into the bottom of the trough of the liming +machine and not over the top, in which latter case it may splash on to +the cloths and lead to overliming, which is not to be desired on account +of its liability to rot the cloth. The amount of lime used varies in +different bleachworks, and there is no rule on the subject; about 5 lb. +to 7 lb. of dry lime to 100 lb. of cloth may be taken as a fair quantity +to use. + +The lime boil has for its object the removal or rather the +saponification of the resinous and fatty matters present in the grey +cloth, either naturally or which have been added in the process of +weaving, or have got upon the cloth accidentally during the processes of +spinning and weaving. With these bodies the lime forms insoluble lime +soaps; these remain in the cloth, but in a form easily decomposable and +removable by treatment with acids and washing. Soda or potash is not +nearly so good for this first boiling as lime--for what reason is +somewhat uncertain, but probably because they form with the grease in +the cloths soluble soaps, which might float about the kier and +accumulate in places where they are not required and thus lead to +stains, whereas the insoluble lime soap remains where it was formed. The +lime also seems to attack the natural colouring matter of the cotton, +and although the colour of the limed cloth is darker than before +boiling, yet the nature of the colour is so altered that it is more +easily removed in the after processes. Besides these changes the +starchy matters put into the cloth in the sizing are dissolved away. +Great care should be taken to see that the goods are evenly laid in the +kiers, not too tight, or the liquor will not penetrate properly; and not +too slack, or they will float about and get entangled and more or less +damaged. Then again care should be taken, especially when using +low-pressure kiers, to see that the supply of liquor does not get too +low, in which case the goods in the upper part of the kier are liable to +get dry and are tendered thereby. So long as the goods in the kiers are +not allowed to get dry there is no risk of damage; this trouble rarely +arises with the Barlow and injector kiers. The inside of the kiers +should be kept well limed, so that the goods shall not come in contact +with the bare iron or metal of which the kier is constructed, as this +would be very likely to lead to stains being produced which are by no +means easy to remove. It is usual, and it is a good plan with almost all +kinds of kiers, except the Mather and Edmeston kiers, to put a number of +large pebbles or small stones at the bottom of the kier, which serves to +make a false bottom on which the goods rest and through which the liquor +penetrates and flows away. Before using, the stones should be well +washed to free them from dirt and grit. + +[Illustration: Fig. 4.--Mather & Platt's Low-pressure Bleaching Kier.] + +The lime boil is carried out in what are called "kiers". Many forms of +kiers have been devised, but the one in most general use is that known +as the "injector kier," of which a drawing is given in Fig. 4, of the +form made by Messrs. Mather & Platt of Salford. Injector kiers are made +to work either under a pressure of 40 lb. to 50 lb. of steam per square +inch, when they are called high-pressure kiers, or at a pressure of 15 +lb. to 20 lb., when they are called low-pressure kiers. The one shown in +the drawing is intended for low-pressure kiers. The principle of +construction is the same in all, the details varying somewhat with +different makers. Injector kiers consist of a hollow, upright iron +cylinder made of plates riveted together; the top is made to lift off, +but can be fastened down tightly by means of bolts and nuts as shown in +the drawing. From the bottom, and placed centrally, rises a pipe, known +as the puffer pipe; this terminates at the top in a rose arrangement. +The lower end of the pipe is perforated. A jet of steam is sent in at +the bottom of this pipe, and by its force any liquor at the bottom of +the kier is forced up the puffer pipe and distributed in a spray over +any goods which may be in the kier. The liquor ultimately finds its way +to the bottom of the kier ready to be blown up again. This circulation +of the liquor can be maintained for any length of time and through its +agency every part of the goods gets thorough and effectual treatment. + +The length of the boil depends upon the kiers; with the open kier about +ten hours are usually given, with the Barlow and injector kiers, working +at a pressure of 40 lb. to 50 lb., six to seven hours are given. + +(5) =Lime or Grey Sour.=--After the lime boil, the next operation is +that of the lime sour or grey sour as it is often called to distinguish +it from a subsequent souring. The souring is done in a machine +constructed in the same way as a washing machine; the trough of the +machine is filled with hydrochloric acid at 2 deg. Tw., which is kept ready +prepared in a stone cistern and run into the machine as required (it is +not advisable to use acid stronger than this). After passing through the +sour the goods are piled in a heap on the stillage for a few hours. The +acid attacks the lime soap which was formed during the lime boil, +decomposes it and dissolves out the lime with the formation of calcium +chloride, while the fat of the soap is liberated, the former is washed +away in the subsequent washing, while the latter remains to a large +extent on the goods, and is removed by the lye boil that follows. +Sulphuric acid is not so satisfactory to use for the lime sour as +hydrochloric acid, because it forms with the lime the insoluble sulphate +of calcium, which is difficult to entirely remove from the goods, +whereas the chloride is very soluble and is entirely eliminated from the +goods by the washing that follows. + +It is advisable to keep the acid at a uniform strength in the machine. +The Twaddell is here of no use as an indicator of the actual strength, +because the lime which the acid dissolves, while it neutralises and +reduces the strength of the acid, actually raises the Twaddell, under +which circumstance the only safe method is a chemical test. This can be +carried out very simply and with a sufficient degree of accuracy by the +workmen, and if it be done at regular intervals during the souring, and +the supply of the fresh acid be regulated, the sour will be kept at a +more uniform strength and more uniform results will be obtained than if +the souring were done in a more empirical fashion. The test is best and +most easily done as follows:-- + +Prepare a solution of 1 oz. of the powdered high strength 98 per cent. +caustic soda in 1 pint of water, weighing and measuring these quantities +very carefully. Now take a tall, narrow, white bottle of about 5 oz. +capacity and make a mark on the neck. Fill this bottle with the test +solution. + +Now take exactly 5 ozs. of freshly prepared sour of 2 deg. Tw., pour into a +jar, and add carefully some of the soda-test solution until a piece of +cloth dyed with turmeric is turned brown, when the acid is neutralised. +Now make a mark on the bottle of soda to show how much has been used. In +all subsequent tests of the sour 5 ozs. should always take the same +quantity of soda solution; if it takes less it is too weak, if more it +is too strong; the remedy in each case is obvious. It is worth while to +graduate the test bottle for 1 deg., 3 deg., 4 deg., 5 deg. Twaddell, as well as for 2 deg. +Tw. acid. + +After the souring it is often the custom to pile the goods on to a +wooden stillage, but the goods should not be left too long so piled up +for they may become dry, either entirely or in parts. In any case, as +the goods dry the acid becomes concentrated and attacks them and makes +them tender, which is not at all desirable. Therefore, if it is not +convenient to proceed with them for some time after souring, they +should be moistened with water from time to time, but it is best to wash +them off at once, whereby they are made ready for the next operation. + +(6) =Lye Boil.=--This is, perhaps, the most important operation in the +whole process of bleaching, especially if the cloths are going to be +printed in the so-called madder style with alizarine colours, or +otherwise stains are liable to occur in the final stage, and it is then +sometimes difficult to put the blame for these upon the right shoulders. + +In principle the lye boil is simple, consisting in boiling the goods +with a solution of soda ash, or caustic soda. The quantity of ash used +varies in different works, as might naturally be expected; from 170 lb. +to 200 lb. of ash to 10,000 lb. of cloth is a fair proportion to use. +The length of boil averages about four hours, certainly not less than +three should be given, and it is not necessary to give more than five +hours in either ordinary kiers, with central puffer pipe, or in injector +kiers. + +Care should be taken to see that the goods are well packed into the +kiers, not too tightly or the lye will fail to penetrate equally all +through, and this is important if a uniform bleach is desired; neither +should they be too loose, or they will float about and get torn. It is +not necessary to be particular about the quantity of water used, except +that it must be sufficient to keep the goods well covered, and still +have enough to keep the circulation energetic. When the water is not +sufficient in amount the goods get somewhat dry; there is then a +liability to tendering, but with plenty of water there is no fear of any +damage being done during a boil with alkali. Some works use caustic soda +instead of soda ash in which case less is required, from 120 lb. to 150 +lb. to 10,000 lb. of cloth, otherwise no alteration is made in the mode +of boiling. + +This lye boil clears away the fatty and waxy matter left in the goods +after the lime sour, and thus prepares the way for the next boil. There +is no advantage in using caustic soda in this preliminary boil, soda ash +being just as effective and cheaper. + +(7) =Resin Boil.=--Following the lye boil is the resin boil which +consists in boiling the goods in a resin soap liquor. This is made as +follows: a soda ash liquor of about 15 deg. to 20 deg. Tw. is prepared, and into +this is thrown resin, broken up into small pieces. + +The whole is boiled up until the resin is dissolved, and then as much +more is added in small quantities as the alkali will take up. The soda +liquor should not be much weaker than 20 deg. Tw., it will then be heavier +than the resin which will float on the top, it is found to dissolve +quicker and better than when the liquor is weak, in which case, the +resin would sink to the bottom of the boiler and would there melt into a +single mass difficult to dissolve. The resin soap liquor when made is +ready to be used. The proportions of resin and alkali used in the boil +vary in different works, but, as a rule, the quantities for 10,000 lb. +of goods are 430 lb. of 58 per cent. soda ash, 180 lb. of resin, and 80 +lb. of 70 per cent. caustic soda. Too much resin should be avoided, as +it is found that with an excess the whites obtained are not nearly so +good as when the right quantity is used; on the other hand, too little +acts much in the same way. It may be taken that from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 per +cent. of the weight of the goods is about the right proportion; 1 per +cent. being too little, and 2 per cent. too much. The quantity of soda +used should be rather more than twice that of the resin, from 3-1/2 to 4 +per cent. The length of boil is usually about twelve hours in a +low-pressure kier; in a high-pressure kier about seven hours is +sufficient. + +What the special function of the resin is in this boil is not +definitely known; but experience, both on a large and small scale, +proves that it is essential to obtaining a good white for alizarine +printing; without it, when the goods are dyed with alizarine after the +mordants have been printed on, they frequently take a brown stain--with +the resin this never or but rarely happens. + +(8) =Wash.=--After the lye boils the goods must be washed, and it is +important that this be done in as thorough a manner as possible. With +the object of accomplishing this most thoroughly many washing machines +have been invented, the main idea in all being to bring every part of +the goods into contact with as much water as possible. Bridson's is an +old form, and a very good one, the principle of this machine is to cause +the cloth to pass to and fro, and to flap upon the surface of the water +in the trough of the machine. + +Furnival's square beater works on much the same principle, and does its +work effectively. More modern washing machines are those of Birch, +Farmer, Mather & Platt, and Hawthorne, where by the peculiar +construction of the rollers and the use of beaters the cloth is very +effectually washed. These machines are much more economical in the use +of water than the older forms, and yet they do their work as well, if +not better. + +(9) =Chemicing.=--This is the actual bleaching operation, familiarly +known as "chemicing," that is, the treatment of the goods with bleaching +powder. The previous operations have resulted in obtaining a cloth free +from grease, natural or acquired, and from other impurities, but it +still has a slight brownish colour. This has to be removed before the +goods can be considered a good white, which it is the aim of every +bleacher they should be. + +To get rid of this colour they are subjected to some final operations, +the first of which is now to be considered. The chemicing consists in +running the goods through a weak solution of bleaching powder (chloride +of lime), piling the goods up into heaps, and allowing them to lie +overnight, the next day they are finished. As the cloth has received, or +ought to have received, a thorough bottoming, only a weak bath of chemic +is required, about 1/2 to 1 deg. Tw. is quite sufficient. The solution is +prepared in a stone cistern. There is very little difficulty in making +it, the only precaution necessary is to have the solution quite clear +and free from undissolved particles, for if these get upon the cloth +they will either lead to the production of minute holes, or they may +overbleach the fibre, which in such case will have the power of +attracting excess of colour in any subsequent dyeing process and thus +lead to stains, the origin of which may not be readily grasped at the +first sight. + +It is best, therefore, either to allow the solution to settle in the +cistern till quite clear, which is the simplest way, or to filter +through cloth. + +The chemicing is best done cold and with weak solution, at 1/2 deg. Tw. +rather than 1 deg. Tw. Warming the liquor increases the rapidity of the +bleaching action, but there is a risk of over-chloring, which must be +avoided as far as possible, because there is then danger of tendering +the fibre, moreover, such over-chlored cloth has an affinity for +colouring matters that is not at all desirable, as it leads to the +production of stains and patches in the dyeing operations. It is much +better, when a single chemicing does not bleach the cloth sufficiently +and give a white, to run the cloth twice through a weak liquor rather +than once through a strong liquor. + +Although the chemicing is followed by a sour, which, acting on the +bleaching powder, liberates chlorine that bleaches the fabric, yet the +greatest proportion of the bleaching effect is brought about while the +pieces are being piled up into heaps between the chemicing and the sour. +In this state they should be left for some hours, covered over with a +damp sheet, care being taken that they are not left piled so long as to +become dry, as in this event there is a great risk of tendering the +cloth or fabric; it is, therefore, a good plan to moisten them with a +little water from time to time. They should not be tightly piled up, but +be as loose as possible, so that the air can get to them, as it is the +carbonic acid and other acid vapours in the air, that by acting on the +chemic causes slow liberation of chlorine, which effects the bleaching +of the goods. + +(10) =White Sour.=--After the chemicing the goods are treated to a sour, +for which purpose either hydrochloric acid or sulphuric acid may be +used. + +Hydrochloric acid possesses the advantage of forming a more soluble salt +of lime (calcium chloride) than does sulphuric acid (calcium sulphate), +and it has a more solvent action upon any traces of iron and other +metallic oxide stains which may be present in the goods. On the other +hand, on account of its fuming properties, it is unpleasant to work +with. The souring is done by passing the goods through an acid liquor at +2 deg. Tw. strong and piling for two or three hours, after which it is +washed. This final washing must be thorough, so that all traces of acid +and chemic are washed out, otherwise there is a tendency for the goods +to acquire a yellowish colouration. + +So far the routine has been described of the so-called madder bleach, +the most perfect kind of bleach applied to cotton cloths. Besides this +two other kinds of bleach are distinguished in the trade. Turkey red and +market bleach. The former is used when the cloth or yarn is to be dyed +plain or self-coloured with delicate shades with Alizarine; the latter +is used for cloth sold in the white. As the operations involved in +producing these are identical in their method of manipulation to those +already described, it will only be necessary to give an outline of the +process for each one. + +=Turkey Red Bleach=--(1) Rinse through water into a kier and boil for +two hours. (2) Lime boil for three to four hours. The amount of lime +required is rather less than what is used with the madder bleach, from +2-1/2 lb. to 3 lb, lime to each 1 cwt. of goods being quite sufficient. +(3) Souring as in the madder bleach. (4) Lye boil, using about 100 lb. +caustic soda to a ton of goods, and giving ten hours' boil. (5) Second +lye boil using about 50 lb. soda ash to a ton of goods, after which the +goods are well washed. (6) Chemicing as with the madder bleach. (7) +Souring as with the madder bleach, then washing well. + +This represents an average process, but almost every bleacher has his +own methods, differing from the above in some of the details and this +applies to all bleaching processes. It is obvious that the details may +be varied to a great extent without changing the principles on which the +process depends. + +=Market Bleach=--Here all that requires to be done is to get the cloth +of a sufficient degree of whiteness to please the eye of the customer. +Market bleachers have, however, to deal with a wider range of goods than +is dealt with in the former kinds of bleaches, from very fine muslins to +very heavy sheetings. Now it is obvious from a merely mechanical point +of view, that the former could not stand as rough a process as the +latter, therefore there must be some differences in the details of +muslin bleaching and sheeting bleaching. Then again with goods sold in +the white, it is customary to weave coloured headings or markings, and +as these have to be preserved, to do so will cause some slight +alteration of the details of the bleach with this object. On all these +points it is difficult to lay down general rules because of the very +varying feature of the conditions which are met with by the market +bleacher. + +The resin boil may be omitted, only two lye boils being required, and +these need not be so long or of such a searching character as the +corresponding boils of the madder bleach. Outlines of two or three such +processes, which are now in use in bleach works, will serve to show the +general routine of a market bleach. The proportions given are calculated +for 10,000 lb. of goods:-- + +(1) Lime boil, using 500 lb. of lime, and giving a twelve-hours' boil. +(2) Grey sour, hydrochloric acid of 2 deg. Tw., then wash well. +(3) Lye boil, 100 lb. caustic soda, 70 per cent. solid, ten to twelve +hours' boil; wash. +(4) Second lye boil, 100 lb., 58 per cent. soda ash, twelve-hours' boil. +(5) Chemic, bleaching powder liquor at 1 deg. Tw., boil for three hours; +wash. +(6) White sour, sulphuric acid at 2 deg. Tw.; wash well. + +The length of boil with the lime and lyes will depend upon the quality +of the goods, heavy goods will require from two to three hours longer +than will light goods, such as cambrics, the time given above being that +for heavy goods, sheetings, etc. + +Another process is the following:-- + +(1) Lime boil, using 480 lb. lime, and boiling for ten hours. +(2) Grey sour, hydrochloric acid at 2 deg. Tw.; wash. +(3) Lye boil, 300 lb. soda ash, 58 per cent.; 50 lb. caustic soda, 70 +per cent., and 30 lb. soft soap, giving ten hours' boil; wash. +(4) Chemic as above. +(5) White sour as above; wash well. + +A smaller quantity of lime is used here, but on the other hand the lye +boil is a stronger one. This process gives good results. Some bleachers +do not use lime in their market bleaches, but give two lye boils, in +which case the process becomes:-- + +(1) Lye boil, using 140 lb. caustic soda, of 70 per cent., giving ten +hours' boil and washing well. +(2) Second lye boil, using 120 lb. soda ash, 58 per cent., and giving +ten hours' boil; wash. +(3) Chemic as above. +(4) White sour as above; wash well. + +Light fabrics, such as laces, lace curtains, muslins, etc., cannot stand +the strain of the continuous process, and they are therefore subjected +to a different bleaching process, which varies much at different bleach +works. One method is to lime by steeping for an hour in a weak lime +liquor, using about 2 lb. of lime to 100 lb. of goods; they are then +boiled in the kier for eight hours, after which they are washed. This +washing is done in what are called dash wheels, large hollow wheels, the +interior of each being divided into four compartments. Into these the +goods are put, and the wheel is caused to revolve, while at the same +time a current of water flows with some force into the interior of the +wheel and washes the goods. + +The wheels do their work well, and the action being gentle the finest +fabrics can be washed without fear of any damage. It is necessary that +the speed at which they are driven should be such that as the wheel +revolves the goods are thrown from side to side of each compartment; if +the speed be too slow they will simply slide down, and then they do not +get properly washed; on the other hand, if the speed be too great then +centrifugal action comes into play and the goods remain in a stationary +position in the wheels with the same result. As to the amount of +washing, it should be as before. After this washing they are boiled +again in the kier with soda ash, using about 8 lb. ash for 100 lb. goods +and giving seven hours' boil, which, after washing, is followed by a +second boil with 5 lb. ash and 4 lb. soft soap for each 100 lb. of +goods, giving eight hours' boil. They are then washed and entered into +the chemic. The chemicing is done in stone cisterns, which are fitted +with false bottoms, on which the goods can rest, and which allow any +insoluble particles of bleaching powder to settle out and prevent them +from getting on the goods. The liquor is used at the strength of about +1/2 deg. Tw., and the goods are allowed to steep about two hours; they are +then placed in a hydro-extractor and the surplus chemic is whizzed out, +after which they are steeped in sour of hydrochloric acid at 1 deg. Tw., +kept in a stone cistern, the goods being allowed to steep for two hours. +Next they are washed, well whizzed, passed through a blueing water, +whizzed again, and dried. The remarks made when describing similar +operations of the madder bleach as to the action, testing, etc., of the +chemicals, are equally applicable here. + +Another plan of bleaching fine fabrics is shown in outline in the +following scheme:-- + +(1) Wash; boil in water for two hours. +(2) Boil in soda for five hours, using 80 lb. soda ash of 58 per cent., +and 30 lb. soft soap for 1,000 lb. of goods. +(3) Second soda boil, using from 40 lb. to 50 lb. soda ash, and 15 lb. +to 20 lb. soft soap, giving four hours' boil; after each soda boil the +goods should be washed. +(4) Chemic, using bleaching powder liquor at 1/2 deg. Tw., allowing them to +steep for two hours, then wash and whiz. +(5) White sour, using hydrochloric acid at 2 deg. Tw., steeping two hours; +wash. + +A further extension of the same process is sometimes given for the best +goods, which consists, after the above, in giving:-- + +(6) A third soda boil, using 25 lb. to 30 lb. soda ash and 15 lb. to 20 +lb. soft soap, giving one hour's boil; washing. +(7) Chemic as before. +(8) Sour as before, after which the goods are well washed. + +In the bleaching of Nottingham lace curtains for the soda boils there +is used what is called the "dolly," which consists of a large round +wooden tub about 5 feet to 6 feet in diameter and about 2 feet 6 inches +to 3 feet deep; this is made to revolve slowly at about one revolution +per minute. Above the tub on a strong frame are arranged four stampers +or beaters, which are caused to rise and fall by means of cams. The +goods are placed in the tub with the scouring liquors and the dolly is +set in motion, the beaters force the liquor into the goods, and the +revolution of the tub causes the beaters to work on a fresh portion of +the goods at every fall. + +This is rather an old-fashioned form of machine, and is being replaced +by more modern forms of boiling kiers. In bleaching certain kinds of +muslins in which the warp threads are double, and in the case of lace +curtains, it is necessary to endeavour to keep the threads as open and +prominent as possible. This cannot be done with the continuous process, +which puts a strain on the threads and thus effaces their individuality. +To avoid this the fabrics have to be dealt with in bundles or lumps, and +on these no strain is put, therefore every thread retains its +individuality. The process above described is applicable. + +=Yarn Bleaching.=--Yarn is supplied to the bleacher in two forms: (1) +warps in which the length of the threads may vary from as little as 50 +to as much as 5,000 yards; these can be dealt with in much the same +manner as a piece of cloth, that is, a continuous system can be adopted; +(2) hanks, which are too well known to require description. Sometimes +yarn is bleached in the form of cops, but as the results of cop +bleaching are not very satisfactory it is done as little as possible. + +=Warp Bleaching.=--The warp, if very long, is doubled two, three or four +times upon itself, so as to reduce its length. Care should be taken that +the ends of the warp are tied together to prevent any chance of +entangling, which would very likely happen if the ends were left loose +to float about. As a rule, warps are not limed, but the adoption of the +liming would assist the bleaching. In outline warp bleaching consists of +the following operations:-- + +(1) Lye boil, using 30 lb. caustic soda, 70 per cent., and 50 lb. soda +ash, 58 per cent., giving six hours' boil, and washing. +(2) Sweeting, boil with 80 lb. soda ash, 58 per cent., for two hours. +(3) Washing. +(4) Chemicing, bleaching powder liquor at 1 deg. Tw., washing. +(5) Sour, sulphuric acid at 2 deg. Tw,. washing well. +(6) Hydro extracting and drying. + +About 2,000 to 3,000 lb. of warps are usually treated at one time. + +The machinery used may be the same as that used in the cloth bleach, and +each operation may be conducted in the same manner. In some warp +bleachworks, while the kiers are made in the same way, the other +machines are made differently. The chemicing and souring is done in +strong cisterns provided with a false bottom; in these the warps are +allowed to remain for about two hours. A more complicated form of +chemicing cistern is also in use. This is made of stone, and is provided +with a false bottom. Above is a tank or sieve, as it is called, having a +perforated bottom through which the liquor flows on the warp in the +cistern below. + +Under the chemicing cistern is a tank into which the liquor flows, and +from which it is pumped up into the sieve above. A circulation of liquor +is thus kept up during the whole of the operation. Owing to the action +of the chemic or acid on the metal work of the pump there is great wear +and tear of the latter, necessitating frequent repairs. This is a defect +in this form of chemicing machine. For drying the warps a +hydro-extractor is first used to get the surplus liquor from the goods. +This machine is now well known, and is in use in every bleachworks, +where it is familiarly known as the "whiz," and the operation is +generally called whizzing. Hydro-extractors are described under the head +of "Dyeing Machinery". + +The actual drying of the warps is done over the "tins" as they are +called. These are a number of large cylinders measuring about 20 inches +in diameter and about--for warp drying--5 feet long. Usually they are +arranged vertically in two tiers, each tier consisting of about five +cylinders, not arranged directly one above another but in a zig-zag +manner, the centres of the first, third and fifth being in one line, and +the centres of the others in another line. The cylinders are made to +revolve by suitable driving mechanism, and into them is sent steam at +about 5 lb. to 10 lb. pressure, which heats up the cylinders, whereby +the warp passing over them is dried. This drying may be partial or +complete, being regulated by the speed at which the warps pass over the +cylinders and by the quantity of steam passed into the same. The quicker +the speed and the smaller the amount of steam, the less the warps are +dried; while, on the other hand, the slower the speed and the larger the +amount and greater the pressure of the steam, the quicker and more +thoroughly are the warps dried. As there is a great deal of water formed +in the cylinders by the condensation of the steam, means are always +provided for carrying off this water, as its retention in the cylinders +often leads to serious results and damage to the machine. + +=Hank Bleaching.=--So far as the chemical part of hank bleaching is +concerned it does not differ from that of warp bleaching; the same +operations and proportions of chemicals may be used and in the same +order, but there is some difference in the machinery which is used. The +hanks may be manipulated in two ways: they may be either kept in +separate hanks, which is the method mostly in vogue in modern +bleach-houses, or they may be linked together in the form of a chain. +In the latter case the operations and the machinery may be the same as +used in the madder bleach, with a few unimportant minor differences. In +the final washing the dumping machine is used, which consists of two +wooden bowls set over a wooden trough containing the wash waters. The +top bowl is covered with a thick layer of rope and merely rests on the +bottom bowl by its own weight, and is driven by friction from the +latter. The chain of hanks passing through between the two bowls has the +surplus liquor squeezed out of it, and as there is considerable increase +in the thickness at the points of linkage between the hanks, when these +pass through the bowls they lift up the top bowl, which, when the thick +places have passed through, falls down with a sudden bump upon the thin +places, and this bumping drives out all the surplus liquor and drives +the liquor itself into the very centre of the hanks, which is sometimes +an advantage. + +In modern bleach-houses the chain form is gradually giving place to the +method of bleaching separate hanks, partly because so many improvements +have been made in the hank-bleaching machinery of late years, which +enables bleachers to handle the yarn in the form of separate hanks +better than they could do formerly; and as bleaching in separate hanks +means that the cotton is kept in a more open form, and is thus more +easily penetrated by the various liquors which are used, it follows that +the bleach will be better and more thorough, which is what the bleacher +aims at. At the same time weaker liquors or, what is the same thing, +less material can be used, which means a saving in the cost of the +process. For bleaching yarn in the hank the following process may be +followed with good results:-- + +(1) Lye boil, using 1,000 lb. yarn, 40 lb. caustic soda of 70 per cent., +and 50 lb. of soda ash of 58 per cent., giving five to six hours' boil +at low pressure. +(2) Wash through washing machine. +(3) Second lye boil, using 40 lb. soda ash of 58 per cent., and giving +two to three hours' boil, wash again through a washing machine. +(4) Chemic as in warp bleaching. +(5) Sour as in warp bleaching. +(6) Wash well. +(7) Hydro extract and dry. + +Sometimes, if the yarn is to be sold in thread form, before the last +operation it passes through another, _viz._, treating with soap and blue +liquors, which will be dealt with presently. + +The lye boils are done in the ordinary kiers, and do not call for +further notice, except that in filling the goods into the kiers care +should be taken that while sufficiently loose to permit of the alkaline +liquors penetrating through the hanks properly, yet they should be so +packed that they will not float about and thus become entangled and +damaged. + +The washing is nowadays done in a special form of washing machine, +designed to wash the hanks quickly and well with as little expenditure +of labour and washing liquor as possible. There are now several makes of +these washing machines on the market, most of them do their work well, +and it is difficult to say which is the best. Some machines are made to +wash only one bundle at once, while others will do several bundles. +Generally the principle on which they are constructed is the same in +all, a trough containing the ash liquor, over which is suspended a +revolving reel or bobbin, usually made of wood or enamelled iron, the +bobbin being polygonal in form so that it will overcome readily any +resistance the yarn may offer and carry the hank round as it revolves. +The hank dips into the wash liquor in the trough, and as it is drawn +through by the revolution of the bobbin it is washed very effectually. +The moving of the hank opens out the threads, and thus the wash liquor +thoroughly penetrates to every part of the hank, so that a few minutes' +run through this machine thoroughly washes the yarn. A constant stream +of clean water is passed through the trough. This machine may also be +used for soaping and sizing the hanks if required. By extending the +trough in a horizontal direction, and increasing the number of reels or +bobbins, the quantity of material that can be washed at one time can be +extended, although not to an indefinite extent. The workman can start at +one end of the machine and fill all the bobbins with yarn, by the time +he has finished this the first bobbinful will have been washed +sufficiently and can be taken off and replaced with another quantity of +yarn, and thus one by one the bobbins may be emptied and refilled, which +means that a considerable amount of material can be got through in the +course of a day. To avoid the labour of walking to and fro to fill and +refill the bobbins, washing machines are constructed in which the trough +is made in a circular form. The bobbins are placed at the ends of radial +arms which are caused to revolve round over the trough, the workman is +stationed constantly at one part of the circle, and as the arms pass him +in their motion round the trough he takes off the washed hanks and puts +on the unwashed hanks. By this machine he is saved a very considerable +amount of labour, and is able to do his work in a more convenient +manner. The yarn is well washed in such a machine. The trough may be +entire or it may be divided into a number of compartments, each of which +may contain a different kind of wash liquor if necessary. Of course it +goes almost without saying that in all these machines the liquors in +them may be heated up by means of steam pipes if required. + +The chemicing and souring of the hanks does not call for special +mention, beyond the fact that these operations are done in the same +manner as warp bleaching. In Fig. 5 is shown Mather & Platt's +yarn-bleaching kier, which is designed to bleach cotton yarn, either in +hanks or in the warp forms, without removing it from the vessel into +which it is first placed. The process is as follows: The hot alkali +solution is circulated by means of a distributing pipe through the +action of an injector or centrifugal pump to scour the yarn; then water +is circulated by means of a centrifugal pump for washing. The chemic and +sour liquors are circulated also by means of pumps, so that without the +slightest disturbance to the yarn it is quickly and economically +bleached. + +[Illustration: FIG. 5.--Mather & Platt's Yarn-bleaching Kier.] + + +STAINS AND DAMAGES IN BLEACHED GOODS. + +Some of the stains in bleached goods which are met are beyond the +control of the bleacher to avoid, while others are due to various +defects in the process. Now the subject of stains can only be dealt with +in a very general way, because of the varying manner in which they +arise. The recognition of the particular way in which the stains have +been formed is sometimes difficult to discover. First, there are iron +stains, which are the most common kind of stains that a bleacher is +troubled with. These generally make their appearance in the form of red +spots of greater or less extent. As a rule they are not visible before +the pieces are fully bleached. Their origin is varied. Sometimes they +arise from the machinery; if the kiers are not kept thoroughly +whitewashed out, there is a great liability to produce iron stains. +Every other machine which is used in the process is made of iron, and +should be kept free from rust, or the chances of stains are considerably +increased. The water used in the bleaching must be free from iron. A +small trace will not make much difference, but some waters contain a +great deal of iron, so much so that they are absolutely unusable for +bleaching purposes. Iron stains are often due to a very curious cause: +the dropping of the oil used in the spinning or weaving machinery on to +the cotton during the process of manufacture. This oil is often charged +with iron derived from the wear and tear of the machinery, and which +often gets fixed in the form of red spots of oxide on the fibre. Iron +stains cannot readily be extracted. + +Oil stains are also common. These take the form of bright yellow stains +in various shapes, sometimes extending along the piece in streaks, at +other times in patches in various places about the piece. Generally +these oil stains do not make their appearance as soon as the piece is +bleached, and often the bleacher sends out his goods quite white and +apparently all right, and yet soon afterwards comes a complaint that the +goods are stained yellow. One cause of these yellow oil stains can be +traced to the use of paraffin wax in the sizing of the warps. In this +case the stains are more or less streaky in form, and extend along the +length of the piece. They are due to the fact that paraffin wax is not +saponifiable by the action of the alkalies used in the process, and is +therefore not extracted. When the goods are chemiced the chlorine acts +upon the paraffin and forms chlorine compounds, which are acted upon by +light, and turn yellow by exposure to that agent and to the atmosphere. +Paraffin, when used for the sizing of warps, may sometimes be completely +extracted from the fabric, but this depends upon the proportion of +tallow or other fat which is used in the composition of the sizing +grease. If the paraffin is only present in small quantities, and the +grease well mixed, then it may be possible to extract all the paraffin +out of the fabric during the bleaching process, but if the paraffin is +in large proportion, or the grease not well mixed, it is scarcely +possible to extract it all out, and stains must be the result. These +stains can hardly be considered the fault of the bleacher, but are due +to the manufacturer of the cloth using cheap sizing compositions on his +warps. There are no means which can be adopted before bleaching to +ascertain whether paraffin exists in the cloth. If found to be present, +the remedy which is the easiest practically is to saturate the cloth +with a little olive oil, or better, pale oleic acid. Allow the fatty +matter to soak well in, and then boil the goods in a little caustic +soda. Another cause of oil stains is the use of mineral oils in the +lubrication of cotton machinery. These mineral oils partake of the +nature of paraffin in their properties, and therefore they are +unsaponifiable by the action of alkalies. Like paraffin wax, they +resist the bleaching process, and much in the same manner produce +stains. Oil stains show themselves in various forms--sometimes as spots. +These may be due to the splashing of oil from the spindles during the +process of spinning, or they may be in patches of a comparatively large +size over the pieces. + +These are perhaps due to the oil dropping on to the piece during the +process of weaving when in the loom. The oils used for the lubrication +of spinning and weaving machinery should contain a fair proportion of +some fatty oil, such as olive or rape or cocoanut oil. Not less than 10 +per cent. should be used. More would be better, but the cost of course +would be greater and oil is an item with spinners and manufacturers. + +Stains are occasionally due to other causes rather too numerous to be +dealt with in detail, and sometimes these stains only appear once in a +lifetime, and often do not make their appearance during the bleaching +process, but only in after dyeing or calico printing processes in +curious ways the causes of which are very baffling to find out. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DYEING MACHINERY AND DYEING MANIPULATIONS. + + +Cotton is dyed in a variety of forms: raw, loose cotton, partly +manufactured fibre in the form of slubbing or sliver, spun fibres or +yarns wound in cop or bobbin forms, in hanks or skeins and in warps, and +lastly in the form of woven pieces. These different forms necessitate +the employment of different forms of machinery and different modes of +handling; it is evident to the least unobservant that it would be quite +impossible to subject slubbing or sliver to the same treatment as yarn +or cloth, otherwise the slubbing would be destroyed and rendered +valueless. + +In the early days all dyeing was done by hand in the simplest possible +contrivances, but during the last quarter of a century there has been a +great development in the quantity of dyeing that has been done, and this +has really necessitated the application of machinery, for hand work +could not possibly cope with the amount of dyeing now done. Consequently +there has been devised during the past two decades a great variety of +machines for dyeing every description of textile fabrics, some have not +been found a practical success for a variety of reasons and have gone +out of use, others have been successful and are in use in dye-works. + + +HAND DYEING. + +[Illustration: FIG. 6.--Rectangular Dye-tank.] [Illustration: FIG. +7.--Round Dye-tub.] + +Dyeing by hand is carried on in the simplest possible appliances; much +depends upon whether the work can be done at the ordinary temperature +or at the boil. Figs. 6 and 7 show respectively a rectangular vat and a +round tub much in use in dye-houses. These are made of wood, but +copper dye-vats are also made. These may be used for all kinds of +material, loose fibre, yarns or cloth. In the case of loose fibre this +is stirred about either with poles or with rakes, care being taken to +turn every part over and over and open out the masses of fibre as much +as possible in order to avoid matting or clotting together. In the case +of yarns or skeins, these are hung on sticks resting on the edges of the +tub or vat. These sticks are best made of hickory, but ash or beech or +any hard wood that can be worked smooth and which does not swell much +when treated with water may be used. The usual method of working is to +hang the skein on the stick, spreading it out as much as possible, then +immerse the yarn in the liquor, lift it up and down two or three times +to fully wet out the yarn, then turn the yarn over on the stick and +repeat the dipping processes, then allow to steep in the dye-liquor. +This is done with the batch of yarn that is to be dyed at a time. When +all the yarn has been entered into the dye-bath, the first stickful is +lifted out, the yarn turned over and re-entered in the dye-liquor, this +operation is carried out with all the sticks of yarn until the cotton +has become dyed of the required depth. In the case of long rectangular +vats it is customary for two men, one on each side of the vat to turn +the yarns, each man taking charge of the yarn which is nearest to him. +The turning over one lot of yarn is technically called "one turn" and +the dyer often gives "three turns" or "four turns" as may be required. + +Woven goods may be dyed in the tub or vat, the pieces being drawn in and +out by poles, but the results are not altogether satisfactory and it is +preferable to use machines for dyeing piece goods. + +[Illustration: FIG. 8.--Section of Dye-vat.] + +Plain tubs or vats, such as those shown in Figs. 6 and 7, are used for +dyeing, and otherwise treating goods in the cold, or at a lukewarm heat, +when the supply of hot water can be drawn from a separate boiler. When, +however, it is necessary to work at the boil, then the vat must be +fitted with a steam coil. This is best laid along the bottom in a +serpentine form. Above the pipe should be an open lattice-work bottom, +which, while it permits the free circulation of boiling water in the +vat, prevents the material being dyed from coming in contact with the +steam pipe. This is important if uniform shades are to be dyed, for any +excessive heating of any portion of the bath leads to stains being +produced on the material in that part of the bath. Fig. 8 shows a vat +fitted with a steam pipe. That portion of the steam pipe which passes +down at the end of the vat is in a small compartment boxed off from the +main body of the vat, so that no part of the material which is being +dyed can come in contact with it. A closed steam coil will, on the +whole, give the best results, as then no weakening of the dye-liquor can +take place through dilution by the condensation of the steam. Many +dye-vats are, however, fitted with perforated, or, as they are called, +open steam coils, in which case there is, perhaps, better circulation of +the liquor in the dye-vat, but as some of the steam must condense, there +is a little dilution of the dye-liquor in the vat. + + +DYEING MACHINES. + +Dye tubs and vats, such as those described above, have been largely +superseded by machines in which the handling, or working of the +materials being dyed is effected by mechanical means. There have been a +large number of dyeing machines invented, some of these have not been +found to be very practical, and so they have gone out of use. Space will +not admit of a detailed account of every kind of machine, but only of +those which are in constant use in dye-works. + +=Dyeing Loose, or Raw Cotton.=--Few machines have been designed for this +purpose, and about the only successful one is: + +=Delahunty's Dyeing Machine.=--This is illustrated in Fig. 9. It +consists of a drum made of lattice work, which can revolve inside an +outer wooden casing. The interior of the revolving drum is fitted with +hooks or fingers, whose action is to keep the material open. One segment +of the drum is made to open, so that the loose cotton or wool to be dyed +can be inserted. By suitable gearing the drum can be revolved; and the +dye-liquor, which is in the lower half of the wooden casing, penetrates +through the lattice work of the drum, and dyes the material contained in +it. The construction of the machine is well shown in the drawing, while +the mode of working is obvious from it and the description just given. +The machine is very successful, and well adapted for dyeing loose, or +raw wool and cotton. The material may be scoured, bleached, dyed, or +otherwise treated in this machine. + +The Obermaier machine, presently to be described, may also be used for +dyeing loose cotton or wool. + +DYEING, SLUBBING, SLIVER OR CARDED COTTON AND WOOL. + +[Illustration: FIG. 9.--Delahunty's Dyeing Machine.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 10.--Obermaier Dyeing Machine.] + +It is found in practice that the dyeing of loose wool or cotton is not +altogether satisfactory--the impurities they naturally contain interfere +with the purity of the shade they will take. Then again the dyes and +mordants used in dyeing them are found to have some action on the wire +of the carding engine through which they are passed; at any rate a card +does not last as long when working dyed cotton or wool as when used on +undyed cotton or wool fibres. Yet for the production of certain fancy +yarns for weaving some special classes of fabrics, it is desirable to +dye the cotton or wool before it is spun into thread. The best plan is +undoubtedly to dye the fibre after it has been carded and partly spun +into what is known as slubbing or sliver. All the impurities have been +removed, the cotton fibres are laid, straight, and so it becomes much +easier to dye. On the other hand, as it is necessary to keep the sliver +or slubbing straight and level, no working about in the dye-liquors can +be allowed to take place, and so such must be dyed in specially +constructed machines, and one of the best of these is the Obermaier +dyeing machine which is illustrated in Fig. 10. The Obermaier apparatus +consists of a dye vat A. In this is placed a cage consisting of an inner +perforated metal cylinder C, and an outer perforated metal cylinder D, +between these two is placed the material to be dyed. C is in contact +with the suction end of a centrifugal pump P, the delivery end of which +discharges into the dye-vat A. The working of the machine is as follows: +The slubbing or sliver is placed in the space between C and D rather +tightly so that it will not move about. Then the inner cage is placed in +the dye-vat as shown. The vat is filled with the dye-liquor which can be +heated up by a steam pipe. The pump is set in motion, the dye liquor is +drawn from A to C, and, in so doing, passes through the material packed +in B and dyes it. The circulation of the liquor is carried on as long as +experience shows to be necessary. The dye-liquor is run off, hot water +is run in to wash the dyed material, and the pump is kept running for +some time to ensure thorough rinsing; then the water is run off, and by +keeping the pump running and air going through a certain amount of +drying can be effected. This machine works very well, and, with a little +experience, constant results can be obtained. The slubbing or sliver may +be scoured, bleached, rinsed, dyed, washed, soaped, or otherwise treated +without removing it from the machine, which is a most decided advantage. + +[Illustration: FIG. 11.--Holliday's Yarn-dyeing Machine.] + +=Holliday's Yarn-dyeing Machine.=--In Fig. 11 is given an illustration +of a machine for dyeing yarn in the hank form made by Messrs. Read +Holliday & Sons, of Huddersfield. The illustration gives a very good +idea of the machine. It consists of a wooden dye-vat which can be +heated by steam pipes in the usual way. Extending over the vat are a +number of reels or bobbins; these are best made of wood or enamelled +iron; these reels are in connection with suitable gearing so that they +can be revolved. There is also an arrangement by means of which the +reels can be lifted bodily in and out of the dye-vat for the purpose of +taking on and off, "doffing," the hanks of yarn for the reels. A reel +will hold about two pounds of yarn. The working of the machine is +simple. The vat is filled with the requisite dye-liquor. The reels, +which are lifted out of the vat, are then charged with the yarn, which +has been previously wetted out. They are then set in revolution and +dropped into the dye-vat and kept there until it is seen that the yarn +has acquired the desired shade. The reels are lifted out and the hanks +removed, when the machine is ready for another lot of yarn. + +There are several makes of hank-dyeing machines of this type, and as a +rule they work very well. The only source of trouble is a slight +tendency for the yarn on one reel if hung loosely of becoming entangled +with the yarn on one of the other reels. This is to some extent obviated +by hanging in the bottom of the hank a roller which acts as a weight and +keeps the yarn stretched and so prevents it flying about. + +To some makes of these machines a hank wringer is attached. + +[Illustration: FIG. 12.--Klauder-Weldon Dyeing Machine.] + +=Klauder-Weldon Hank-dyeing Machine.=--This is illustrated in Fig. 12, +which shows the latest form. This machine consists of a half-cylindrical +dye-vat built of wood. On a central axis is built two discs or rod +carriers which can revolve in the dye-vat, the revolution being given by +suitable gearing, which is shown at the side of the machine. On the +outer edge of the discs are clips for carrying rods, on which one end of +the hanks of yarn is hung, while the other end is placed on a similar +rod carried near the axle. The revolution of the discs carries the yarn +through the dye-liquor contained in the lower semi-cylindrical part of +the machine previously alluded to. At a certain point, every revolution +of the discs, the rods carrying the yarns are turned a little; this +causes the yarn to move on the rods, and this motion helps to bring +about greater evenness of dyeing. The most modern form of this machine +is provided with an arrangement by means of which the whole batch of +yarn can be lifted out of the dye-liquor. Arrangements are made by which +from time to time fresh quantities of dye can be added if required to +bring up the dyed yarn to any desired shade. This machine works well and +gives good results. Beyond the necessary labour in charging and +discharging, and a little attention from time to time, as the operation +proceeds, to see if the dyeing is coming up to shade, the machine +requires little attention. + +Many other forms of hank-dyeing machines have been devised: there is +Corron's, in which an ordinary rectangular dye-vat is used. Round this +is a framework which carries a lifting and falling arrangement that +travels to and fro along the vat. The hanks of yarn are hung on rods of +a special construction designed to open them out in a manner as nearly +approaching handwork as is possible. The machine works in this way: the +lifting arrangement is at one end of the vat, the hanks are hung on the +rods and placed in the vat. Then the lifter is set in motion and moves +along the vat; as it does so it lifts up each rod full of yarn, turns it +over, opening out the yarn in so doing, then it drops it again in the +vat. When it has travelled to the end of the vat it returns, picking up +the rods of yarn in so doing, and this motion is kept up until the +dyeing is completed. This machine is very ingenious. + +A type of machine which has been made by several makers consists of an +ordinary rectangular dye-vat surrounded with a framework carrying a +number of sets of endless chains, the links of which carry fingers. The +hanks of yarn are hung on rods at one end of which is a tooth wheel that +when in position fits into a rack on the side of the vat. The action of +the machine is this: the hanks are hung on the rods and placed at the +entrance end of the vat, by the moving of the chains it is carried along +the vat and at the same time revolves, thus turning over the yarn which +hangs in the dye-liquor; when it reaches the opposite end of the vat, +the rod full of yarn is lifted out, carried upwards and then towards the +other end of the vat when it is again dropped into the dye-vat to go +through the same cycle of movements which is continued until the yarn is +properly dyed. + + +COP DYEING. + +In weaving fancy-coloured fabrics the ordinary mode is to dye the yarn +in the hank form, then those which have to be used for the weft are +wound into the cop form for placing in the shuttles. The cop form is +that in which the yarn leaves the spinning frame, and necessarily apart +from the dyeing there is labour involved in reeling it into hanks and +winding it back again into the cop form, not only so but there is +necessarily some waste made in these operations. Many attempts have been +made, with more or less success, to dye the yarn while in the cop form +and so save the cost of the hanking and copping above referred to as +well as the waste which occurs. Cops cannot be satisfactorily dyed by +simple immersion in a boiling dye-bath, the outside becomes dyed but the +central portions as often as not remain quite white, and there is a +distinct grading of colour or shade throughout the cop, the outer +portions being deeply dyed while the middle portion will only have a +medium shade and the central portions either not being dyed at all or +only faintly tinted, much depending on the firmness with which the cop +has been wound. A soft, loosely wound cop is much more thoroughly dyed +than a hard, tightly wound cop. This uneven dyeing of the cops is not +satisfactory, and must be avoided if cop dyeing is to be a success. Many +dyers have turned their attention to this question of dyeing yarn in the +cop form, and many machines have been devised for the purpose; some of +these have not been a success, but a few have been found to yield +satisfactory results and proved in practice very successful. + +In all machines for dyeing cops one principle has been adopted--that of +drawing or forcing the dye-liquor through the cop. + +[Illustration: FIG. 13.--Graemiger Cop-dyeing Machine.] + +=Graemiger's Cop-dyeing Machine.=--This is shown in section in Figs. 13 +and 14. Although simple in its work it is somewhat complex in its +construction and difficult to describe. The machine consists of a +dye-vat to hold the requisite dye-liquors. In the upper portions of this +is an iron casting formed with four chambers, the two lower ones of +which are immersed in the dye-liquor while the upper chambers are above +it. The sides of this casting are formed of metal plates which fit +tightly against the casting and form as nearly air-and water-tight +joints with it as it is possible to make. These metal plates are on a +spindle and can be rotated. They are perforated and made to carry +spindles, on which are placed the cops to be dyed. The two lower +chambers are in connection with a pump which draws the air from them and +so creates a vacuum inside the chambers. To fill this, liquor from the +dye-vat passes through the cops and into the chambers, and is in turn +drawn through the pump and returned to the dye-vat. In this way there is +a continual circulation of dye-liquors from the vat through the cops, +chambers and pump back to the vat again. + +[Illustration: FIG. 14.--Graemiger Cop-dyeing Machine.] + +The left upper chamber is practically a blank chamber. Those portions of +the cop carriers in contact with it are filled with cops, which are +placed on perforated spindles; the discs are given a quarter revolution +which brings the cops into the dye-liquor and in connection with the +left lower chamber and are dyed. At the same time the section of the cop +carriers now in contact with the left top chamber is filled with a new +lot of cops, another quarter of a revolution is given to the cop +carriers, which immerse the new lot of cops in the dye-liquor. The third +quarter of the cop plates is filled with cops. A third movement of the +cop plates now takes place; this brings the first lot of cops out of the +dye-liquor and in contact with the right upper chamber, where the +surplus liquor is drawn out of them and returned to the dye-vat. Another +revolution brings the cops back to their first position, they are now +removed and a new lot substituted. These proceedings go on +continuously. Although not quite free from defects the machine gives +very good results, the cops being very uniformly dyed through. + +[Illustration: FIG. 15.--- Beaumont's Cop-dyeing Machine.] + +=Beaumont's Cop-dyeing Machine.=--This is illustrated in Fig. 15. It +consists of a copper hemispherical dye-vessel, which is provided with a +tightly fitting lid, although this is not needed in all cases. The +bottom of the vessel is in communication with the suction end of a +centrifugal pump, while the delivery end of the pump is attached to the +upper end of the dye-vessel, the action of the pump being to secure a +constant circulation of dye-liquor from the bottom to the top of the +dye-vessel. Arrangements are provided by a peculiar and ingenious +contrivance fitted in one side of the dye-kettle for introducing steam +to heat the dye-liquor to any required degree. As in most forms of +cop-dyeing machines, the cops are placed on perforated metal spindles. +The cops and spindles are inserted in holes in a perforated metal plate, +and over them is placed a thin metal plate, technically called the +antifloater, whose object is to prevent the cops from becoming detached +from the plate. This plate, full of cops, is now placed in the +dye-vessel and rests upon a flange which is provided for that purpose. +When the cop plate is in position the dye-vessel is divided into two +chambers--a lower chamber and an upper one, in the latter being the +cops. + +The pump draws liquor from the chamber under the cop plate and so +creates a vacuum, which during the working of the machines ranges from +10 to 20 inches in degree. To supply this vacuum, dye-liquor is drawn +from the upper chamber through the cops. The pump returns the liquor to +the dye-vessel. A very rapid circulation of dye-liquor takes place, from +25 to 50 gallons per minute passing through the cops and pump. From five +to ten minutes is sufficient to dye the cops. The machine is simple in +its construction and gives good results, the cops being completely dyed +through. One important consideration in cop dyeing is to be able to dye +successive batches of cops to exactly the same shade, and this is quite +possible with this machine. + +=Young & Crippin's Cop-dyeing Machine.=--So far as simplicity of +construction is concerned this lies between the two preceding machines. +It consists of four parts with some accessory mechanism. There is first +a dye-liquor storage tank at the base of the apparatus in which the +liquor is kept stored and boiling (if necessary) ready for use, above +this and at the front end is the dye-chamber, this communicates at its +lower end by a pipe with the dye-liquor in the dye-vat. Then there is a +large vacuum chamber, in which by means of an injector a vacuum can be +formed, this directly communicates with a liquor-receiving chamber +which again in turn is in communication with the upper part of the +dye-chamber. The cops are placed on perforated spindles as usual, and +these on a perforated plate and are kept in place by a plate which is +screwed down on them. The charged cop plate is placed in the dye-chamber +on which a cover is placed and screwed down. By means of a lever the +injector is set at work, a vacuum created in the vacuum and receiving +chambers, the consequence being that dye-liquor is drawn from the vat +through the cops in the dye-chamber into the receiving chamber. When a +certain quantity of liquor has passed through, by a movement of a lever, +the vacuum is destroyed, and the dye-liquor runs back into the dye-vat; +these operations are repeated until from past experience of the working +of the machine it is thought sufficient has passed through to dye the +cops, when the dye-chamber is opened and the cops taken out. This +machine works very well. + +=Mommer's Cop-dyeing Machine.=--This is in use in several continental +dye-works. The central portion of this machine is a rectangular +dye-chamber, which can be hermetically closed by hinged doors, the cops +are placed side by side on trays provided with perforated bottoms, the +trays being placed one on the top of the other in the dye-chamber. From +the top of the dye-chamber passes a pipe to a centrifugal pump, and a +similar pipe passes from the bottom of the chamber to the pump. A +separate vat contains the dye-liquor which is used. The pump forces the +dye-liquor through the cops which take up the dye. Arrangements are +provided by which the direction of the flow of the dye-liquor can be +changed. This machine gives fairly good results, not perhaps equal to +those with the machines previously described. + +=Warp-dyeing Machines.=--Although many warps, especially for fancy +fabrics, are prepared from yarns dyed in the hank or cop form, yet it +is found advantageous when a warp is of one colour, a self-colour as it +is called, to form the warp from grey or white yarns and to dye it after +warping. If the warp were so wound as to be able to go into a Obermaier +dyeing machine, it would be possible to dye it in that machine, but +generally warps are dyed in the open form and are passed through a +dyeing vat, commonly called a warp-vat which is constructed as shown in +Fig. 16. These warp-dyeing machines generally consist of a long +rectangular wooden dye-vat, divided by two partitions into three +compartments, each provided with steam pipes to heat up its contents; +between the first and second and between the second and third +compartments is fitted a pair of squeezing rollers, while the third +compartment is fitted with a heavier pair of squeezing rollers. Motion +is given to these rollers by suitable gearing, and they serve to draw +the warp through the machine. Guide rollers are fitted in the +compartment, and the warp being taken round these, it passes several +times up and down and through the dye-liquors contained in the +compartments. These warp-dyeing machines may be made of sufficient width +to take one, two, three or more warps at one time as desired. + +[Illustration: FIG. 16.--Warp-dyeing Machine.] + +The three compartments of the machine may contain different liquids or +all the same liquid according as the nature of the shade to be dyed +demands. The passage is done slowly so as to give the warp time to +absorb the liquors and take up the dye. When all the length of warp has +been sent through, it is said to have been dyed "one end". Sometimes +this will be enough, but often it is not, and so the warp is sent +through again, given another end, and still again if the full shade has +not been attained. + +After being dyed in this machine the warp is sent through another one +containing various wash liquors to finish the process. + +[Illustration: FIG. 17.--Warp-dyeing Machine.] + +Fig. 17 shows a warp-dyeing machine similar to, but a little more +elaborate in construction than, the vats just described. + +=Piece-dyeing Machines.=--Wherever it is possible it is far more +preferable to dye textile fabrics in the form of woven pieces rather +than in the yarn from which they are woven. During the process of +weaving it is quite impossible to avoid the material getting dirty and +somewhat greasy, and the operations of scouring necessary to remove this +dirt and grease has an impairing action on the colour if dyed yarns +have been used in weaving it. This is avoided when the pieces are woven +first and dyed afterwards, and this can always be done when the cloths +are dyed in one colour only. Of course when the goods are fancy goods +containing several colours they have to be woven from dyed yarns. + +[Illustration: FIG. 18.--Dye-jiggers.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 19.--Dye-jigger.] + +The most common form of machine in which pieces are dyed is The Jigger, +commonly called the jig. This is shown in Figs. 18 and 19. It consists +of a dye-vessel made sufficiently long to take the piece full +width--wide at the top and narrow at the bottom. At the top at each side +is placed a large winding roller on which the cloth is wound. At the +bottom of the jig is placed a guide roller round which passes the cloth. +In some makes of jigs (Fig. 19) there are two guide rollers at the +bottom and one at the top, as shown in the illustration, so that the +cloth passes several times through the dye-liquor. In working, the cloth +is first wound on one of the rollers, then threaded through the guide +rollers and attached to the other winding roller. When this is done +dye-liquor is run into the jig, the gearing set in motion, and the cloth +wound from the full on to the empty roller. With the object of keeping +the piece tight, a heavy press roller is arranged to bear on the cloth +on the full roller. When all the cloth has passed from one roller to the +other it is said to have been given "one end". The direction of motion +is now changed, and the cloth sent in the opposite direction through the +jig, and the piece has now received another "end". This alternation from +one roller to the other is continued as long as is deemed necessary, +much depending on the depth of colour which is being dyed--some pale +shades may only take two or three ends, deeper shades may take more. +When dyeing wool with acid colours which are all absorbed from the +dye-liquor, or the bath is exhausted, it is a good plan to run the +pieces several more ends so as to ensure thorough fixation of the dye on +the cloth. + +It is not advisable in working these jigs to add the whole of the dye to +the liquor at the commencement, but only a part of it; then when one end +is given, another portion of the dye may be added; such portions being +always in the form of solution. Adding dyes in powder form inevitably +leads to the production of colour specks on the finished goods. The +reason for thus adding the dye-stuff in portions is that with some dyes +the affinity for the fibre is so great that if all were added at once it +would all be absorbed before the cloth had been given one end; and, +further, the cloth would be very deep at the front end, while it would +shade off to no colour at the other end. By adding the dye in portions +this difficulty is overcome and more level shades are obtained; it is +met with in all cases of jigger dyeing, but it is most common in dyeing +cotton or wool with basic dyes like magenta, auramine, methyl violet or +brilliant green, and in dyeing wool with acid dyes like acid green, +formyl violets, azo scarlet, or acid yellow. + +Some attempts have been made to make jiggers automatic in their +reversing action, but they have not been successful; owing to the +greatly varying conditions of length of pieces, their thickness, etc., +which have to be dyed, and it is next to impossible to make all +allowances for such varying conditions. + +[Illustration: FIG. 20--Jig Wince.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 21.--Cloth-dyeing Machine.] + +=The Jig Wince or Wince Dye Beck.=--This dyeing machine is very largely +used, particularly in the dyeing of woollen cloths. It is made by many +makers, and varies somewhat in form accordingly. Figs. 20, 21 and 22, +show three forms by different makers. In any make the jig wince, or +wince dye beck, consists of a large rectangular, or, in some cases, +hemicylindrical dye-vat. Probably the best shape would be to have a vat +with one straight side at the front, and one curved side at the back. In +some a small guide roller is fitted at the bottom, under which the +pieces to be dyed pass. Steam pipes are provided for heating the +dye-liquors. The becks should be fitted with a false bottom made of +wood, perforated with holes, or of wooden lattice work, and below which +the steam pipes are placed; the object being to prevent the pieces from +coming in contact with the steam pipe, and so preventing the production +of stains. Above the dye-vat, and towards the back, is the wince, a +revolving skeleton wheel, which draws the pieces out of the dye-vat at +the front, and delivers them into it again at the back. The construction +of this wince is well shown in the drawings. The wince will take the +pieces full breadth, but often they are somewhat folded, and so several +pieces, four, five or six strings as they are called, can be dealt with +at one time. In this case a guide rail is provided in the front part of +the machine. In this rail are pegs which serve to keep the pieces of +cloth separate, and so prevent entanglements. The pieces are stitched +end to end so as to form an endless band. When running through the vat +they fall down in folds at the back part of the beck, and are drawn out +of the bottom and up in the front. Each part thus remains for some time +in the dye-liquor, during which it necessarily takes up the dye. + +[Illustration: FIG. 22.--Dye Beck.] + +In the jig and wince dyeing machines the pieces necessarily are for a +part of the time, longer in the case of the jigger than in that of the +wince, out of the dye-liquor and exposed to the air. In the case of +some dyes, indigo especially, this is not desirable, and yet it is +advisable to run the cloth open for some time in the liquor, so as to +get it thoroughly impregnated with the dye-liquor, or to become dyed. +This may be done on such a machine, as is shown in Fig. 24, page 79, but +having all the guide rollers below the liquor, so that at no time is the +piece out of the liquor, except, of course, when entering and leaving. + +[Illustration: FIG. 23.--Holliday's Machine for Hawking Cloth.] + +The so-called hawking machines have also this object in view, and Fig. +23 is an illustration of Holliday's hawking machine, made by Messrs. +Read Holliday & Sons, of Huddersfield. There is the dye-vat as usual; in +this is suspended the drawing mechanism, whose construction is well +shown in the drawing. This is a pair of rollers driven by suitable +gearing, between which the cloth passes, and by which it is drawn +through the machine. A small roller ensures the cloth properly leaving +the large rollers; then there is a lattice-work arrangement over which +the pieces are drawn. In actual work the whole of this arrangement is +below the surface of the dye-liquor in the vat. The piece to be dyed is +threaded through the machine, the ends stitched together. Then the +arrangement is lowered into the dye-vat and set into motion, whereby the +cloth is drawn continuously in the open form through the dye-liquor, +this being done as long as experience shows to be necessary. This +hawking machine will be found useful in dyeing indigo on cotton or wool, +or in dyeing cotton cloths with such dyes as Immedial blacks, Cross-dye +blacks, Amidazol blacks, Vidal blacks, where it is necessary to keep the +goods below the surface of the dye-liquor during the operation. + +[Illustration: FIG. 24.--Continuous Dyeing Machine.] + +Fig. 24 shows a form of cloth-dyeing machine much used in the cotton +trade. It consists of a number of compartments fitted with guide rollers +at top and bottom, and round which the cloth is threaded, so that it +passes up and down in the dye-liquor several times. Between each two +compartments is a pair of squeezing rollers to press out all surplus +liquors. All the compartments may be filled with the same dye-liquor, or +with different dye-liquors and developing liquors, as may be most +convenient and required for the work in hand. Such a machine is used in +dyeing logwood black, aniline black, and many of the direct colours, +etc. + +From the direct colours a large number of light shades are dyed on to +cotton cloth by the process known as padding; this consists in passing +the cloth through a liquor containing the dye-stuff, usually a little +phosphate of soda is added, then between squeezing rollers, and finally +drying the cloth. For this process there is used what is called a +padding machine. This is shown in Figs. 25 and 26. + +[Illustration: FIG. 25.--Padding Machine.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 26.--Padding Machine.] + +It consists essentially of a trough, which contains two or more guide +rollers, and in this is placed the padding liquor. Above the trough is +fitted squeezing rollers, sometimes two as in Fig. 25, or three as in +Fig. 26. Besides these, there are winding and beaming and other guide +rollers. Fig. 25 shows the simplest padding machine, where the cloth +passes once through the liquor and through the squeezing rollers. In +Fig. 26 the cloth passes several times through the liquor and twice +through the squeezing rollers, thus ensuring a more perfect impregnation +of the cloth with the dye-liquor, and therefore a more uniform dyeing of +the cloth. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE OF COTTON DYEING. + + +Students of cotton dyeing should have a good knowledge of the principles +that underlie the processes of dyeing cotton fabrics. It is only by +recognising these principles and then endeavouring to apply them to each +individual case of dyeing, that the dyer or student will obtain a +thorough grasp of his subject. It is the aim of the author to lay down +these principles in a clear and intelligible form. Cotton is dyed in its +loose raw condition, as yarn in the form of hanks, yarn in the form of +cops, and in the woven pieces of every kind. Formerly the idea was +prevalent among cotton dyers that the process which succeeds with piece +goods would not answer with yarns. It is now recognised however that +this is not so, that a process which will dye cotton yarn will also dye +cotton piece goods or loose cotton. The differences which do exist in +the practical working of the processes entirely arise from the +difference in the form in which the cotton is presented to the dyer, for +it must be obvious to any one that the mode of handling a piece of +cotton cloth during the time it is in the dye-bath must be different +from that of a hank of yarn, a parcel of loose cotton or a number of +cops. The various machines used for dyeing all these forms and the +manner of working them have been already described. + +The dyes, whether natural--derived from the various dye-woods, etc.--or +artificial--prepared from coal tar--may according to their varied +chemical composition and constitution be divided into seventeen or +eighteen distinct groups, but it is not intended here to give any +account of them; the reader is referred to other books such as _The +Dictionary of Coal Tar Colours_, by George H. Hurst; _The Chemistry of +Coal Tar Colours_, by Benedikt and Knecht; or _The Chemistry of Organic +Colouring Matters_, by Nietzki, where the composition and properties of +the dyes are fully described. + +From the manner in which the various dyes are applied to cotton, linen, +wool and other fibres we can divide them into five groups, thus:-- + + Group 1. Direct dyes. + " 2. Basic dyes. + " 3. Acid dyes. + " 4. Mordant dyes. + " 5. Miscellaneous dyes. + +First group, direct dyes, are now very numerous; they dye cotton, linen +and other vegetable fibres from a plain bath, and do not require those +fibres to be prepared in any way. Hence the reason of their being named +direct, or by some the substantive colours. They will also dye wool and +silk. + +The second group, basic dyes, comprise some of the oldest of the +coal-tar dyes; they dye wool and silk direct from plain baths, but +require cotton, linen and other vegetable fibres to be previously +prepared in baths of tannic acid, sumach or other tanning material. + +The third group, acid dyes, are very numerous, and from both their +chemical composition and mode of dyeing can be divided into several +sub-groups. Their principal feature is that they dye wool and silk from +baths containing Glauber's salt and some acid, hence their name of "acid +dyes". They do not dye cotton or linen well, some not at all, others are +absorbed to a slight extent by the cotton, but only pale tints are +produced, while others may be used along with metallic mordants to dye +bright but pale and fugitive shades. The acid dyes comprise such as Acid +green, Formyl violet, Acid magenta, Azo scarlet, Orange. Thiocarmine R., +Patent blues, Wool greens, indigo extract, Eosines, etc. + +The fourth group, mordant dyes, includes the alizarine series of +coal-tar colours, logwood, Brazil wood and most natural colours, and +some others. The principal feature of these dyes is that they require +the cotton to be prepared with some metallic oxide, like those of +chrome, alumina and iron, before dyeing, and the colour which is got +depends partly upon the particular dye-stuff used and partly upon the +oxide with which the cotton has been prepared. + +The fifth group includes a few dyes like indigo, which are dyed on to +cotton by various and special processes. + +The processes of cotton dyeing employed to-day may be comprised under +eight heads, namely:-- + +(1) Direct dyeing. +(2) Direct dyeing followed by fixation with metallic salts. +(3) Direct dyeing followed by fixation with developers. +(4) Direct dyeing followed by fixation with couplers. +(5) Dyeing on tannic mordant. +(6) Dyeing on metallic mordant. +(7) Developing the colour direct on fibre. +(8) Dyeing by impregnating the cotton with the dye-stuff, +followed by oxidation or steaming. + +It is of course not easy to elaborate a simple scheme of grouping the +processes that shall definitely include all processes, but the above +grouping will be found as successful as any, and each will be considered +as fully as is deemed necessary. + + +(1) DIRECT DYEING. + +Nothing in the history of cotton dyeing caused such a revolution in the +methods of working as did the introduction some fifteen years ago of the +forerunners (Congo red, Benzo purpurine, Chrysamine, Azo blue) of the +now numerous group of direct dyes, followed as they were by the Benzo, +Congo, Diamine, Titan, Chicago and Zambesi members of the group. Prior +to their introduction cotton dyeing was always more or less complicated +and mordanting methods had to be employed. + +With the introduction of the direct dyes cotton dyeing has become even +more simple than wool or silk dyeing, and now all that is necessary is +to prepare a dye liquor containing the necessary amount of dye-stuff and +Glauber's salt, or common salt or soda, or some similar body, or a +combination thereof. The method of working is to place the cotton in a +lukewarm or even in a hot bath, raise to the boil, allow the goods to +remain in the boiling bath for half an hour to an hour, then take them +out, wring, wash and dry. This method is simple and will answer for all +the dyes of this group. There are some that do not require the working +to be done boiling; it is simply needful to enter the cotton into a +boiling bath and work without steam until the bath has cooled down. +Furious boiling is not needed--a gentle simmer gives the best results. +Uneven dyeing seems to be an impossibility in this group of dyes, unless +the cotton is dirty; no matter how the operations are carried on, level +dyeing is the rule not the exception. An enormous variety of shades and +tints can be obtained from these dyes, and they can be combined together +in every conceivable manner and proportions. + +No satisfactory explanation has yet been given as to what feature in the +chemical composition of these dye-stuffs give them such an affinity for +the cotton fibre as to enable them to dye in so simple a manner such +fast shades as they do; it is a fact there is such an affinity and there +the matter must rest. + +It has been found in practice that the efficiency of the dyeing +operation depends, primarily of course, on the particular dye-stuff +used, but also upon other factors, that a certain assistant be used. +Some dyes work on the cotton better from a bath containing Glauber's +salt, while with others common salt works best, while a little soda +along with the salt facilitates the dyeing in some cases. It is +practically impossible to specify here the best assistant for all the +direct colours, on account of the great number of such dyes which are +known, but in the practical recipes given below much useful advice will +be found. Then the quantity of such assistants used is of much +importance; there is one proportion at which the best results are +obtained for each dye. The dyer should find out for himself by +experiment and the use of the dyes he employs in his work what assistant +and how much is best, and make his baths up to that strength. With some +dyes 10 per cent. of the assistant will be found sufficient, while with +others, 25 to 30 per cent. will not be too much. The percentage refers +to the weight of the cotton that is taken. + +One function of the assistants must be pointed out here: it is that in +some cases they--especially the alkaline ones, soda, potash, borax, +phosphate of soda--help the dyeing by promoting the solubility of the +dye-stuff in the bath, thereby retarding the exhaustion of the bath and +ensuring the production of level shades. + +The following formulas show the application of the foregoing principles +to the dyeing of numerous shades on to cotton and also the dyes which +are applicable, some of the combinations which are possible with these +direct dyes, and give some idea of the tints and shades of the colours +that can be got by their means. The best assistants to use are also +indicated in the formulae. + +All the formulae here given and all that will be given in future chapters +are intended for 100 lb. weight of cotton fabrics in any condition, +whether of loose cotton, yarn in cops, hanks or wraps and woven fabrics +of every kind. + +_Bright Red._--Dye with 3 lb. Benzo purpurine 4 B, 3 lb. soda and 15 lb. +Glauber's salt. This dye may also be used with 3 lb. soap and 10 lb. +soda in the bath with equally good results. + +_Pale Salmon._--Prepare a dye-bath with 3 lb. salt, 5 lb. phosphate of +soda, 1 lb. soap, 1/2 oz. Benzo orange R. For a pale shade like this it +is not necessary to heat to the boil, a temperature of 170 deg. to 180 deg. F. +is sufficient. + +_Dark Plum._--Prepare a dye-bath with 20 lb. of Glauber's salt, 2-1/2 +lb. soap, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine black R O. and 2 lb. Diamine red N. Enter at +180 deg. F., work for a few minutes, then raise to boil and dye to shade; +lift, wash and dry. + +_Turkey Red._--Prepare a dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Benzo purpurine 4 B, 1 +lb. Brilliant purpurine, 2 lb. soap, 10 lb. borax. Enter the cotton at +the boil and work for one hour; lift, wash and dry. + +_Lilac Red._--Prepare the dye-bath with 2 lb. soap, 5 lb. soda, 3 lb. +Rose azurine G. Work at the boil for one hour. + +_Pink._--Prepare a bath containing 10 lb. soda, 1 oz. Rose azurine B. +Enter at a boil and work for one hour, boiling to shade; lift, wash and +dry. + +_Bordeaux._--Prepare a dye-bath with 15 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. soda +crystals, 3 lb. Diamine fast red F, 1 lb. Diamine violet N, 1 lb. Rose +azurine G. Enter cold, then raise to the boil, and work for one and a +half hours; lift, wash and dry. + +_Rose Pink._--The dye-bath is made with 2 lb. Erika B, 20 lb. Glauber's +salt and 3 lb. soap, working at near the boil to shade. + +_Brilliant Red._--Make the dye-bath with 24 lb. Brilliant purpurine R +and 25 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour. + +_Deep Pink._--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Diamine rose B D, 1/2 lb. +soda, 1 lb. soap and 5 lb. Glauber's salt, working at 150 deg. F. for half +an hour. + +_Dark Red._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine red 5 B, 2 lb. soda and +20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour. + +_Pink._--Prepare the dye-bath with 4 oz. Diamine rose B D, 1 lb. +Turkey-red oil, 40 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Scarlet._--Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Diamine scarlet 3 B, 1 lb. +Turkey-red oil, 20 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Scarlet._--Prepare the dye-bath with 3 lb. Titan scarlet C, 1/2 lb. +Titan orange, 50 lb. salt. Work at the boil for thirty minutes, then +lift, wash and dry. The dye-bath is not exhausted and may be used for +further lots. + +_Crimson Red._--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Titan scarlet D and 50 +lb. salt. Work at the boil for fifty minutes, then lift, wash and dry. +The bath is not exhausted, the cotton taking up only about 3 lb. of the +dye-stuff; it may therefore be kept for further use, when for each +succeeding lot 3 to 3-1/2 lb. of colour and 25 lb. of salt only need be +added. + +_Scarlet._--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Rosophenine 5 B, dissolved +in 50 gallons hot water, 2 gallons caustic soda lye (60 deg. Tw.). When +thoroughly dissolved add 150 lb. salt. Make up the bath to 100 gallons. +Enter the yarn and work for a quarter to half an hour at about 180 deg. F; +squeeze off and wash thoroughly in cold water until the water runs off +clean. + +_Rose Red._--Use 1 lb. Diamine red 10 B, 3 lb. soda, and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt. + +_Deep Crimson._--Use 3 lb. Diamine red 10 B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt. + +_Claret._--Use 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's +salt. + +_Pink._--The dye-bath is made with 5 oz. Dianil red 4 B, 5 lb. salt and +3 lb. soda. + +_Scarlet._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Dianil red 4 B, 15 lb. salt and 5 +lb. soda. Work at the boil for one hour. + +_Claret._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Dianil claret G, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +salt. Work at the boil for one hour. + +_Maroon._--Dye with 3 lb. Dianil claret B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt. +Work at the boil for one hour. + +_Bright Scarlet._--Use in the dye-bath 2-1/2 lb. Dianil red 4 B 5 oz. +Dianil orange G, 3 lb. soda and 15 lb. salt. + +_Dark Maroon._--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Dianil red 4 B, 2 lb. +Dianil claret G, 13 oz. Dianil claret B, 5 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt. + +_Crimson._--Dye with 3 lb. Congo rubine, 5 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's +salt. + +_Dark Maroon._--Use in the dye-bath 1 lb. Benzo purpurine 4 B, 3 lb. +Congo Corinth G, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the +boil to shade. + +_Pale Fawn Red._--Use in the dye-bath 1-1/2 oz. Diamine red 5 B, 1-1/2 +oz. Diamine catechine G, 3 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Rose Red._--Prepare the dye-bath with 3/4 lb. Diamine Bordeaux B, 3 oz. +Diamine orange B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt. + +_Crimson._--Use in the dye-bath 3/4 lb. Diamine Bordeaux B, 3 oz. +Diamine fast yellow B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Salmon._--Dye with 1-1/2 oz. Diamine fast red F, 1-1/2 oz. Diamine fast +yellow B, 3 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Terra-Gotta Red._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brown M, 3/4 lb. Diamine +fast red F, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Lilac Red._--Dye with 4 lb. Heliotrope B B, 3 lb. soda and 15 lb. +Glauber's salt. + +_Bright Pink._--Use in the dye-bath 2 oz. Rose azurine G, 1 lb. soda and +10 lb. Glauber's salt. Nearly all the direct reds give good pink tints +when used in proportion, varying from 0.1 to 0.25 per cent. of +dye-stuff. + +_Bright Straw._--Dye in a bath made of 1/4 lb. Titan yellow G G, 10 lb. +salt, for three-quarters of an hour, then lift, wash and dry. + +_Yellow._--Prepare a dye-bath with 1 lb. Titan yellow Y, 10 lb. salt. +Heat to 180 deg. F., enter the goods, raise to boil, and dye for one hour; +lift, wash and dry. + +_Yellow._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, 1 +lb. Turkey red oil, 20 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Sun Yellow._--Prepare the dye-bath with 2 lb. Sun yellow, 30 lb. common +salt. Dye at the boil. The bath is kept for further lots. + +_Yellow._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. Direct yellow R, 20 lb. +Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Yellow._--Prepare the dye-bath with 2 lb. Curcuphenine, 20 lb. common +salt. Work at the boil for one hour; lift, rinse and dry. + +_Old Gold._--Make the dye-bath with 5 lb. Diamine yellow N powder, 20 +lb. phosphate of soda, 10 lb. soap. Work at the boil for one hour; +finish in the usual way. The bath may be kept for other lots of goods. + +_Dark Yellow._--The bath is made from 2 lb. Toluylene orange G, 10 lb. +phosphate of soda, and 2-1/2 lb. soap, working at the boil to shade. + +_Bright Yellow._--Use 1 lb. Chrysophenine, 2 lb. phosphate of soda and +10 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Lemon Yellow._--Use 1 oz. Chrysamine G, 2 lb. phosphate of soda and 10 +lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Yellow._--Dye with 2 lb. Oxyphenine and 20 lb. salt. + +_Yellow Olive._--Use in the dye-bath 2 oz. Cotton brown N, 4-1/2 oz. +Diamine bronze G, 4-1/2 oz. Diamine fast yellow B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +salt. + +_Green Yellow._--Dye with 1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow B. 2 oz. Diamine +bronze G, 3 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Gold Yellow._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Columbia yellow, 3 lb. soda +and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Cream._--Dye with 1/2 oz. Toluylene orange G, 24 grains Brilliant +orange G, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Primrose._--Dye with 3 oz. Dianil yellow 3 G, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. +salt. + +_Gold Yellow._--Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Dianil yellow G, 1/2 lb. soda and 15 +lb. salt. + +_Buff Yellow._--Dye with 3-1/2 oz. Dianil yellow 2 R, 1/2 lb. soda and +10 lb. salt. + +_Orange._--Prepare the dye-bath with 2 lb. Chlorophenine orange R, 20 +lb. common salt. Work at the boil for one hour; lift, rinse and dry. + +_Red Orange._--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Mikado orange 4 R and 25 lb. +salt. Work at the boil for one hour. + +_Orange._--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Mikado orange G and 25 lb. salt. +Work at the boil for one hour. + +_Pale Orange._--The dye-bath contains 6 oz. Diamine Orange G, 1-1/2 oz. +Diamine fast yellow B, 1/4 oz. Diamine scarlet B, 3 lb. soda and 15 lb. +Glauber's salt. + +_Olive Yellow._--Dye with 3/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 1 oz. +Oxydiamine black N, 1-1/2 oz. Diamine bronze G, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt. + +_Dark Orange._--Dye with 3 lb. Columbia orange R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Bright Orange._--Use 3 lb. Congo orange R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Pale Orange._--Dye with 3 lb. Dianil orange 2 R, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. +salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Brilliant Orange._--Dye with 4 lb. Dianil orange G and 20 lb. salt for +one hour. + +_Deep Orange._--Dye with 2 lb. Oxydiamine orange R, 3/4 lb. soda and 20 +lb. salt for an hour. + +_Pale Orange._--Dye with 3/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 1 lb. Diamine +orange B, 3 lb. soda and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Bright Orange._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Benzo orange R, 1-1/2 lb. +Chrysamine R, 10 lb. phosphate of soda and 2 lb. soap. + +_Green._--Prepare the dye-bath with 2 lb. Benzo green G, 10 lb. +Glauber's salt. Enter lukewarm, bring slowly to the boil, dye for one +hour at the boil. + +_Russian Green._--Make the dye-bath with 16 oz. Diamine black H W, 4 oz. +Diamine fast yellow A, 3 lb. soda, 15 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the +boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry. + +_Dark Olive._--Prepare a dye-bath with 3-1/2 lb. Benzo olive, 2-1/2 lb. +Diamine black B O, 2 lb. Diamine yellow, 20 lb. common salt, 2 lb. soap. +The goods are entered into the bath at 160 deg. F., then heat is raised to +the boil, and the dyeing continued for one hour, then lift, wash and +dry. + +_Dark Olive._--Dye in a bath of 2 lb. Titan yellow Y, 1 lb. Diamine +brown Y, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine blue 3 B, 2 lb. soda. Work for one hour, then +lift, wash and dry. + +_Olive._--Prepare a dye-bath with 15 lb. phosphate of soda, 3 lb. soap, +1-1/2 lb. Diamine yellow N, 4 oz. Diamine blue 3 B, 1-1/2 oz. Diamine +brown V. Dye at the boil to shade; lift, wash and dry. + +_Green Olive._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. Diamine black R O, 1 lb. +Chrysamine, 1/4 lb. Benzo brown, 5 lb. soda, 5 lb. salt, 2 lb. soap. The +goods are entered at about 180 deg. F. and worked for a short time, then +the temperature is raised to the boil, and the goods are worked for one +hour, lifted, washed and dried. + +_Reseda._--Prepare a bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soap, 1/2 +lb. Diamine black R O, 2 lb. Diamine yellow N. Enter at 120 deg. F., heat to +boil and dye for one hour at that temperature; lift, wash and dry. + +_Sage Green._--Prepare a dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 1/2 lb. +Diamine black R O, 2 lb. Diamine yellow N. Enter at about 150 deg. F. and +then raise to boil and dye boiling for one hour, wash and dry. + +_Drab._--Prepare the dye-bath with 10 lb. Cross dye drab, 5 lb. soda +crystals. Enter at the boil and work at this temperature for half an +hour. Whilst dyeing add gradually 75 lb. salt. Rinse well and dry. + +_Olive._--Prepare the dye-bath with 2 lb. Dianil olive, 5 lb. phosphate +of soda, 5 lb. common salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Olive._--The dyeing is done in a bath containing 4 oz. Diamine black H +W, 1-3/4 lb. Diamine bronze G, 5 lb. soda, 15 lb. Glauber's salt. Work +at the boil for one hour. + +_Grass Green._--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Chrysamine G, 1-1/2 oz. +Benzo azurine G, 3 lb. soap and 10 lb. borax, working at the boil for +one hour. + +_Green._--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Titan yellow Y, 1 lb. Titan blue +3 B and 20 lb. salt. + +_Bright Grass Green._--Dye for an hour at the boil with 1 lb. Sulphon +azurine D, 2 lb. Thiazole yellow and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Green._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine green B, 3 lb. soda and 20 +lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil to shade. + +_Dark Green._--Dye with 3 lb. Diamine dark green N, 3 lb. soda and 20 +lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Green._--Use in the bath 3 lb. Benzo green B B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Dark Sea Green._--Dye with 5 oz. Diamine black H W, 3 oz. Diamine +catechine G, 3 oz. Diamine fast yellow B, 3 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt. + +_Pale Green._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 2 oz. +Diamine black H W, 3 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Bright Pea Green._--Use in the dye-bath 1 oz. Thioflavine S, 1/4 oz. +Diamine sky blue F F and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Dark Green._--Use 1-3/4 lb. Diamine green G, 3/4 lb. Oxydiamine yellow +G G, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one +hour. + +_Deep Green._--Use 1-3/4 lb. Diamine green G, 3/4 lb. Diamine black B H, +1/2 lb. Oxydiamine yellow G G, 3 lb. soda, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Sea Green._--Use 2 oz. Dianil yellow R, 2-1/2 oz. Dianil blue B, 1-3/4 +oz. Dianil dark blue R, 1 lb. soda, and 20 lb. salt, working at the +boil. + +_Leaf Green._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Dianil yellow 3 G, 1 lb. Dianil blue +B, 11 oz. Dianil blue 2 R, 3 lb. soda, and 20 lb. salt at the boil for +one hour. + +_Deep Green._--Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Dianil yellow 3 G, 2-1/2 lb. Dianil +blue 2 R, 6 oz. Dianil dark blue R, 3 lb. soda, and 20 lb. salt at the +boil for one hour. + +Greens are largely produced by mixing yellows and blues together as will +be seen from the recipes given above; the particular shade of green +which is got from a combination of blue and green depends upon the +quality of the dye-stuffs used: thus, to produce bright greens of a pure +tone, it is essential that the yellow used shall have a greenish tone +like Thioflavine S, Thiazole yellow, or Dianil yellow 3 G, while the +blue must also have a greenish tone like Diamine sky blue, Benzo blue 3 +B, etc. By using yellows like Diamine fast yellow R, and dark blues like +Benzo azurine 3 R, Diamine blue R W, Dianil dark blue R, the green which +is got is darker and duller in tone. The addition of such a dye as +Diamine black B H throws the shade more on to an olive, while a brown +dye-stuff, like Diamine brown M, or an orange dye, like Titan orange N, +throws the green on to a sage tone. Examples of these effects will be +found among the recipes given above. + +It may be added here that by using smaller quantities, but in the same +proportions as given in the above recipes, a great range of tints and +shades of green can be dyed from very pale to very deep. + +_Bright Blue._--Prepare a dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Congo blue 2 B, 5 lb. +salt, 5 lb. phosphate of soda, 2 lb. soap. Work at the boil for one +hour, then rinse and dry. + +_Dark Navy._--Prepare a dye-bath with 1 lb. Diamine black R O, 2 lb. +Diamine blue 3 R, 8 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soap. Enter the cotton at +180 deg. F., and boil for one hour. + +_Pale Blue._--Prepare a dye-bath with 10 lb. salt, 3 lb. soda, 3 oz. +diamine blue 3 R. Work for one hour at the boil, then lift, wash and +dry. + +_Sky Blue._--Prepare a dye-bath with 2 lb. Titan como G, 20 lb. common +salt, 2 oz. acetic acid. Work at the boil for half an hour, then lift, +wash and dry. + +_Bright Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Chicago blue 6 B, 20 +lb. Glauber's salt, 3 lb. soap. Work at the boil for one hour, then +lift, wash and dry. + +_Pale Sky Blue._--Make the dye-bath with 1 oz. Chicago blue 6 B, 10 lb. +Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soap. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, +wash and dry. + +_Sky Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 1 lb. +Turkey-red oil, 20 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Dark Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 2-1/2 lb. Diamineral blue R, +2-1/2 lb. Diamine deep black Cr, 1 lb. Turkey-red oil, 40 lb. Glauber's +salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Dark Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 3 lb. Triamine black B, 15 lb. +Glauber's salt, in 50 gallons of water. Enter at 150 deg. F., and boil for +one hour. Allow the goods to remain until the water is cold, when the +dye-bath will be completely exhausted. + +_Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 2 lb. Diamine steel blue L, 2 lb. +soda, 15 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Diamine blue B G, 2 lb. soda, +20 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. In shade this is +very similar to that got with Diamine brilliant blue G, which however +should be used for light shades on account of its brightness. For deep +shades Diamine blue B G, is preferable, because of its greater +tinctorial power. + +_Light Indigo Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. Paramine indigo +blue, 2 lb. soda, 20 lb. Glauber's salt. Enter at about 150 deg. F., and dye +at the boil for one hour. + +_Navy Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Paramine navy blue R, 2 +lb. soda, 20 lb. Glauber's salt. Enter at about 150 deg. F., and dye at the +boil for one hour. + +_Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. Paramine navy blue R, 2 lb. +soda, 20 lb. Glauber's salt. Enter at about 150 deg. F., and dye at the boil +for one hour. + +_Navy Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Benzo chrome black blue B, +15 lb. Glauber's salt, 3 lb. soda. Work at the boil for one hour; lift, +rinse and dry. + +_Grey Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 2 lb. Paramine blue black S, 2 +lb. soda, 20 lb. Glauber's salt. Enter at 150 deg. F., and dye for one hour +at boil. + +_Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. Paramine blue B, 2 lb. soda, 20 +lb. Glauber's salt. Enter at about 150 deg. F., and dye at the boil for one +hour. + +_Slate Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1/4 lb. Diamine black B H, 3/4 +oz. Diamine fast yellow B, 2 lb. soda, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at +the boil to shade. + +_Deep Blue._--Use 3-1/4 lb. Diamine blue B X, 1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black +N, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Blue._--Dye at the boil for one hour with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine sky blue, 2 +oz. Diamine green B, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Navy._--Dye with 1 lb. Dianil dark blue R, 8 oz. Dianil black C R, 5 +lb. soda and 20 lb. salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Dark Navy._--Use 2 lb. Dianil blue B, 2 lb. Dianil dark blue R, 3/4 lb. +Dianil black C R, 2 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt, working at the boil for +one hour. + +_Deep Blue._--Dye with 3-1/2 lb. Diamine blue black E, 5 lb. soda and 20 +lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Deep Blue._--Dye with 3 lb. Zambesi black B R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Dark Navy._--Use 3 lb. Dianil dark blue R, 3 lb. caustic soda 70 deg. Tw., +and 25 lb. salt, working at the boil for one hour. + +_Violet Blue._--Dye with 3 lb. Dianil dark blue 3 R and 25 lb. salt at +the boil for one hour. + +_Bright Blue._--Use 1 lb. Dianil blue B, and 20 lb. salt, working at the +boil for one hour. + +_Full Blue._--Dye with 3 lb. Brilliant azurine 5 G, 5 lb. common salt, 5 +lb. phosphate of soda and 2 lb. soap at the boil for one hour. + +_Dark Blue._--Dye with 3 lb. Erie blue B X, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Pale Blue._--Dye with 1 lb. Chicago blue 6 B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Deep Blue._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black A, 2 lb. Diamine deep +blue R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Blue._--Dye with 6 oz. Diamine blue 3 B, 1-1/2 oz. Diamine sky blue F +F, 3 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Navy._--Dye with 4 lb. Diamine new blue R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Dark Navy._--Dye with 1-3/4 lb. Diamineral blue R, 3 lb. soda and 20 +lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Sky Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 6 oz. Diamine sky blue F F, 3 lb. +soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour. + +_Dark Blue._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine blue R W, 2 lb. soda and +20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour. + +_Dark Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 3 lb. Triamine black B T, and 15 +lb. Glauber's salt; work at the boil to shade. + +_Blue._--Use 2 lb. Direct indigo blue and 15 lb. Glauber's salt; work at +the boil. + +_Bright Blue._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Titan como S N, 2 lb. acetic +acid and 20 lb. salt, working at the boil for one hour. + +_Turquoise Blue._--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine sky blue, 1 oz. Diamine fast +yellow B, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil to +shade. + +_Dark Navy._--Use 4 lb. Titan navy R, and 20 lb. salt at the boil for +one hour. + +_Green Blue._--Dye with 1 lb. Dianil blue G, 2-1/2 oz. Dianil yellow G, +1 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt at the boil for one hour. + +Many more formulae could have been given, but the above will perhaps +suffice; they include all the best of the direct blues. Paler tints of +blue may be got by using from 1 to 2 per cent. of any of these blues and +also of the many direct blacks now on the market. The direct blues as a +rule have a good degree of fastness to light. + +_Lilac._--Prepare a dye-bath with 1/4 lb. Hessian brown 2 M, 1 oz. Azo +mauve A M, 1 lb. soap, 2 lb. soda, 10 lb. salt. Work at the boil for one +hour, then lift, wash and dry. + +_Plum._--Dye with 3 lb. Oxydiamine violet G, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt. + +_Dark Plum._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Oxydiamine violet B, 3 lb. soda +and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil. + +_Violet._--Make the dye-bath with 3/4 lb. Oxydiamine violet B, 1 lb. +soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and dye at the boil to shade. + +_Violet._--Dye with 12 oz. Dianil blue 4 R, 2 oz. Dianil blue B and 10 +lb. salt at the boil. + +_Lilac._--Dye with 1-1/2 oz. Diamine rose G D, 3/4 oz. Diamine sky blue +F F, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil to shade. + +_Red Violet._--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Diamine violet N, 1/2 oz. +Diamine brilliant blue G, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, working +at the boil. + +_Red Violet._--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine violet N, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt. + +_Bright Red Lilac._--Dye with 1-3/4 lb. Erika B N, 4 oz. Chicago blue 4 +R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil. + +_Grey Lilac._--Dye with 12 oz. Neutral grey G, 3 oz. erika B N, 1 lb. +soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Pale Lilac._--Dye with 2-1/2 oz. Dianil claret B, 2-1/2 oz. Dianil blue +4 R, and 10 lb. salt. + +_Light Plum._--Dye with 10 oz. Dianil claret B, 10 oz. Dianil blue and +20 lb. salt. + +_Dull Lilac._--Dye with 1/2 lb. Diamine brown V, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt. + +_Heliotrope._--Dye with 4 oz. Heliotrope 2 B, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt. + +_Plum._--Dye with 3 lb. Congo Corinth B, 3 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's +salt. + +_Dull Violet._--Use in the dye-bath 1-1/2 lb. Chicago blue 4 R, 14 oz. +Erika B N, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for +one hour. + +_Red Lilac._--Dye with 6 oz. Oxydiamine violet G, 2 oz. Oxydiamine +violet B, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Violet._--Dye with 3 oz. Diamine violet N, 2 oz. diamine blue 3 R, 1 +lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Fawn Drab._--Prepare a dye-bath with 1 lb. Cachou de laval, 1/4 oz. +Benzo purpurine B. Enter the cotton into this bath in the cold and heat +to the boil, taking about one hour for the operation, then add 4 lb. +common salt and boil for three-quarters of an hour longer; lift, wash +and dry. + +_Pale Olive Brown._--The dye-bath is made with 1 lb. Diamine bronze G, 1 +oz. Cotton brown N, 3 oz. Diamine gold, 5 lb. soda, 15 lb. Glauber's +salt. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry. + +_Red Brown._--Prepare a dye-bath with 1-3/4 lb. Cotton yellow, 4 lb. +Hessian brown 2 B N, 2 lb. Diamine black R O, 1 lb. soda, 2 lb. salt. +Enter the goods at 180 deg. F., then raise to the boil and work to the +shade; lift, wash and dry. + +_Brown Drab._--Prepare a dye-bath with 1/4 lb. Cotton brown N, 3/4 oz. +Diamine yellow N, 3/4 oz. Diamine black B O, 15 lb. phosphate of soda, 3 +lb. soap. Work at the boil for one hour. + +_Gold Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 16-1/4 oz. Toluylene orange G, +9-1/2 oz. Toluylene orange R, 4-3/4 oz. azo mauve, 2-1/2 lb. soap, 5 lb. +soda. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Chestnut Brown._--Prepare a dye-bath with 10 lb. common salt, 2 lb. +Benzo brown G, 1/2 lb. Benzo azurine G, 1/2 lb. Chrysophenine. Enter the +goods at 150 deg. F., raise to the boil and dye boiling for one hour. + +_Purple Brown._--Prepare a dye-bath with 10 lb. common salt, 2 lb. Benzo +brown N B, 1 lb. Azo violet. Enter the cotton at 150 deg. F., raise to the +boil and dye boiling for an hour; lift, wash and dry. + +_Brown._--Prepare a dye-bath with 5 lb. soda, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 12 +oz. Chrysamine, 1 oz. Benzo purpurine, 6-1/4 oz. Benzo azurine. Dye at +the boil for one hour, rinse and dry. The brown thus got is fast to +washing. + +_Dark Chestnut Brown._--Prepare a dye-bath with 10 lb. salt, 3 lb. Benzo +brown N B X, raise to 150 deg. F., enter goods, heat to boil, and work for +one hour; lift, rinse and dry. + +_Dark Brown._--Prepare a dye-bath with 20 oz. Glauber's salt per gallon +of water used, 2-1/2 lb. soap, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine black R O, 2 lb. Cotton +brown N. Enter the yarn at 180 deg. F., give three turns, raise temperature +to boil, and work to shade; lift, rinse and wash. + +_Gold Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Titan gold, 50 lb. salt. +Work at the boil for thirty minutes, then lift, wash and dry. The +dye-bath is not exhausted, only about 3 lb. of the colour being taken up +by the cotton. It may, therefore, be kept for further lots, adding 3 lb. +more colour and about 20 lb. more salt for each batch of cotton, or if +it is not desired to keep the bath, add less colour to start with, and +towards the end of the operation add more salt. + +_Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Paramine brown G, 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soda. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Light Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 3 lb. Diamine catechine G, 3 +lb. soda, 15 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Dark Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Diamine catechine B, 3 +lb. soda, 15 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Dark Drab._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. Titan brown Y, 3 oz. +Columbia green, 32-3/4 oz. Diamine bronze, 17 lb. Glauber's salt. Work +at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry. + +_Pale Brown._--The dye-bath is made with 2 lb. Mikado orange 4 R, 3 oz. +Benzo fast grey, 30 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at the boil for one hour, +then lift, ash and dry. + +_Gold Brown._--Make a dye-bath with 1 lb. Titan gold, 50 lb. common +salt. Enter at the boil, work for an hour, then lift, wash and dry. Keep +the bath for another lot of goods; it will only require the addition of +about 14 oz. of colour and 10 lb. salt. + +_Buff Brown._--Make the dye-bath with 3/4 lb. Titan gold, 1/4 lb. Titan +brown R, 5 oz. Titan blue 3 B, 40 lb. common salt. Work at the boil to +shade, then lift, wash and dry. + +_Deep Chestnut Brown._--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Titan brown R, +1-1/2 lb. Titan blue R, 25 lb. common salt. Work at the boil for an +hour, then lift, wash and dry. + +_Light Seal Brown._--Make the dye-bath with 10 lb. salt, 2 lb. soda, 14 +oz. Oxyphenine, 3/4 lb. Atlas red R, 6 oz. Diamine blue B X. Work at the +boil to shade, then lift, wash and dry. + +_Orange Brown._--Make a dye-bath with 10 lb. salt, 2 lb soda, 14 oz. +Oxyphenine, 1 lb. Atlas red R, 1 oz. Diamine blue B X. Work at the boil +to shade, then lift, wash and dry. + +_Pale Nut Brown._--Use in the dye-bath 4-1/2 oz. Diamine catechine G, 1 +oz. Diamine brown M, 1 oz. Diamine catechine B, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour. + +_Walnut Brown._--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine brown M, 3 oz. Diamine orange G, +2 oz. Diamine black H W, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt at the +boil for one hour. + +_Black Brown._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine brown M, 3/4 lb. +Diamine blue black R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at +the boil. + +_Reddish Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Dianil brown R, 5 lb. salt and 5 lb. +phosphate of soda at the boil for one hour. + +_Chocolate Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Dianil brown T, 5 lb. phosphate of +soda and 5 lb. salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Dark Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Dianil dark brown, 5 lb. salt and 5 lb. +phosphate of soda at the boil for one hour. + +_Light Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Diamine catechine G, 3 +lb. soda and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Brown._--Dye with 2-1/4 lb. Cotton brown N, 4 oz. Diamine black H W, 2 +lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. + +_Dark Walnut Brown._--Make the dye-bath with 3-1/4 lb. Diamine brown M, +6 oz. Diamine catechine B, 6 oz. Diamine red 5 B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt; work at the boil. + +_Dark Chestnut Brown._--Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Dianil brown R, 1 lb. soda +and 20 lb. salt at the boil. + +_Dark Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Dianil brown 3 G O, 2 lb. Dianil brown B +D, 1 lb. Dianil red 4 B, 3 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt at the boil for one +hour. + +_Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Mikado brown M and 25 lb. +salt; work the cotton in this at the boil for one hour. + +_Nut Brown._--Use in the dye-bath 2-1/2 lb. Benzo brown G and 15 lb. +salt, working at the boil. + +_Dark Brown._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Benzo brown N B and 15 lb. +Glauber's salt, working at the boil. + +_Dark Brown._--Make the dye-bath with 4 lb. Diphenyl brown B N, 10 lb. +Glauber's salt and 4 lb. soap, working at the boil to shade. + +_Black Brown._--Use in the dye-bath 2-1/2 lb. Dianil brown 3 G O, 1-1/2 +lb. Dianil brown G, 3/4 lb. Dianil dark blue R, 3 lb. soda and 25 lb. +salt. + +_Dark Brown._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Zambesi black D, 1-1/4 lb. Brilliant +orange G, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil to shade. + +_Gold Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Curcumine S, 1 lb. Columbia orange R, 5 +oz. Columbia black F B, 3 lb. soda and 15 lb. Glauber's salt at the +boil. + +_Dark Chestnut._--Dye at the boil with 2 lb. Columbia Orange R, 8 oz. +Columbia black F B, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Sage Brown._--Dye with 1 lb. Zambesi black D, 1 lb. Curcumine S, 3/4 +lb. Diamine orange G D, 3 lb. soda and 30 lb. Glauber's salt at the +boil. + +_Deep Brown._--Dye 3-1/2 lb. Diamine brown M, 3/4 lb. Oxydiamine orange +G, 3/4 lb. Diamine black H W, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt at +the boil. + +_Chestnut._--Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Diamine brown G, 3/4 lb. Oxydiamine +orange R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Pale Walnut Brown._--Dye with 3-1/2 lb. Diamine brown M, 3/4 lb. +Oxydiamine orange G, 1-1/2 oz. Diamine black B H, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt. + +Various other browns may be obtained by combining the various direct +browns together or with other direct dyes. The use of a yellow or orange +will brighten them; that of a red will redden the shade; the addition of +a dark blue or a black will darken the shade considerably. It may be +useful to remember that a combination of red, orange and blue or black +produces a brown, and by using various proportions a great range of +shades can be dyed. + +_Black._--Prepare a dye-bath with 6 lb. Diamine black R O, 2 oz. +Thioflavine S, 2 lb. soap, 10 lb. salt. Enter the cotton at the boil and +dye for one hour; lift, wash and dry. + +_Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Direct deep black E extra, and +1/2 to 1-1/2 oz. common salt per gallon of water. Dye at the boil for +one hour. + +_Deep Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 5-1/2 lb. Diamine deep black R +B, 2 lb. soda, 20 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour; +lift, wash and dry. + +_Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Direct triamine black G X, 15 +lb. Glauber's salt. Dye for one hour at the boil; lift, rinse and dry. +In working for from two to three hours the dye-bath will exhaust +completely. + +_Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Oxydiamine black A, 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soda. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 6 lb. Pluto black B. Dye at the boil +for one hour with the addition of 3/4 to 1-1/4 oz. Glauber's salt, 1/2 +to 3/4 oz. soda ash per gallon of liquor. To develop the shade it is +necessary to dye in a boiling liquor. + +_Black._--Use 2-1/2 lb. Diamine jet black Cr, 2-1/2 lb. Diamine jet +black R B, 2 lb. soda, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil +for one hour. + +_Black._--Use 6 lb. Oxydiamine black N R, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour. + +_Black._--Use 6 lb. Columbia Black F B B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, working at the boil to shade. + +Besides the blacks given in the above recipes, there are other brands +which are used in the same way, and vary slightly in the shade of black +they give. + +All the direct blacks require working in strong baths to give anything +like black shades; they all have, more or less, a bluish tone, which can +be changed to a jetter shade by the addition of a yellow or green dye in +small proportions, which has been done in one of the recipes given +above. + +By coupling, chroming or developing, the direct blacks can be made to +give full, deep and fast blacks, and examples of their use in this +manner will be found in following sections. + +By using all the direct blacks in proportions varying from 1/4 to 1 per +cent. of dye-stuff to the weight of the cotton they give greys of +various tints and depths; a few examples of such greys will now be +given. + +_Blue Grey._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black A, 1 +lb. soda, 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Bright Grey._--Prepare a dye-bath with 4-1/2 oz. Azo mauve A M, 1-1/2 +oz. Direct yellow G, 3 lb. soda, 15 lb. common salt. + +_Silver Grey._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1/2 oz. Neutral grey G, 10 lb. +sulphate of soda. Work at the boil to shade, then lift, wash and dry. + +_Slate._--Dye in a bath with 1/2 lb. Diamine black B H, 3 oz. Diamine +bronze G, 15 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for three-quarters of an +hour. + +_Bronze Grey._--Prepare a dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Diamine bronze G, 15 lb. +Glauber's salt, 3 lb. soap. Enter at about 160 deg. F., raise to boil and +work for one hour; lift, wash and dry. + +_Dark Slate._--Prepare a dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 1-1/2 lb. +soap, 1 lb. Diamine black R O, 2 lb. Cotton brown N. Heat to about 150 deg. +F. Enter the goods, work for a short time, then raise to the boil and +work for one hour; lift, wash and dry. + +_Green Grey._--Prepare a dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 1 lb. +Diamine black R O, 3/4 oz. Thioflavine S. Enter at from 150 deg. Tw. to 180 deg. +F., raise to boil and dye for one hour; wash and dry. + +_Light Slate._--Prepare a dye-bath containing 2-1/4 lb. soap, 15 lb. +Glauber's salt, 6 oz. Diamine black R O, 1/2 oz. thioflavine S. Enter +cotton at 140 deg. F., work a little, then heat to boil and dye to shade; +lift, wash and dry. + +_Grey._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Diamine grey G, 1/2 oz. +Diamine scarlet B, 1 lb. soda, 1 lb. soap, 5 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye for +one hour at the boil. + +_Light Grey._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. Diamine grey G, 1 lb. +soda, 1 lb. soap, 5 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye for one hour at the boil; +lift, rinse and dry. + +It may be convenient here to deal with the question of the fastness of +the direct dyes to such influences as light, air, acids, alkalies, +washing and soaping, that have a very material influence on the use of +these dyes in dyeing various fabrics. This matter can only be dealt with +here in very general terms, for space is limited and the dyes are too +numerous for detailed mention. They vary very greatly in degrees of +fastness, some are absolutely fast to all influences; the blacks are +among the fastest, generally these resist washing and soaping, stand +acids well and are fast to alkalies, light however affects them more or +less, though they cannot be reckoned fugitive colours. The few direct +greens known are good colours; they stand washing, soaping and light +well, but they are affected by acids and alkalies. The blues vary very +much, generally they stand soaping and have a fair degree of fastness to +light, acids have but little action, alkalies tend to redden the shade, +while heat also affects them. The direct browns are very variable; they +are in general not fast to light; they stand washing and soaping and +resist alkalies, but are altered by acids slightly. The yellows rank +among the fastest of colours to light and washing and soaping; acids +have but little effect; they are reddened by alkalies. Among the reds +there is great variation in properties, generally they are not fast to +light, standing washing and soaping well and resisting weak alkalies; +some of them, such as the Benzo purpurines and Congo reds are very +sensitive to acids, being turned blue with very weak acids, but on +washing or soaping the original colour comes back; others, like the +Titan reds, Diamine reds and Delta purpurines are not so sensitive, but +these are affected by moderately strong acids; there are one or two reds +like Benzo fast scarlet 4 B S and Purpuramine D H, which are fast to +acids. The depth of shade which is dyed has some considerable influence +on the degree of fastness, the deeper shades of a colour are always +faster than the paler shades, particularly as regards light, a +difference of 1/2 per cent, of dye-stuff has been known to make a very +appreciable degree of difference as regards the fastness of a colour to +light. + +In dyeing cotton with all the direct dyes, it is found that the whole of +the dye-stuff is not removed from the dye-bath, how much is taken up by +the cotton, and the depth of the shade which is dyed upon the cotton +chiefly depends upon three factors:-- + +(1) Volume of water used. +(2) Quantity of saline salts used. +(3) Degree of affinity of the dye-stuff for the fibre. + +There may also be some minor factors such as temperature at which the +dyeing is carried on, the character and condition of the fabrics being +dyed, etc. + +The volume of water used in making the dye-bath has a very great +influence upon the amount of dye taken up by the cotton, the greater the +volume of water the less dye is absorbed and the paler the colour which +is produced upon the fibre. It is therefore important to use as little +water as possible in making up the dye-bath, indeed, for anything like +good results to be obtained with some dyes, especially those of the +sulphur series like Vidal black, Immedial blacks, Katigen browns, +Cross-dye blacks, Amidazol blacks, etc., it is necessary to employ what +is called a short bath, that is making it as strong as possible. The +proportion of water with such dyes should not exceed fifteen times the +weight of the cotton being dyed, that is, for every pound of cotton, +1-1/2 gallons of water can be allowed. This will suit the dyeing of +yarns and loose fabrics like knitted stockings and hosiery goods very +well. In the case of dyeing piece goods on a jigger or continuous dyeing +machines even stronger liquors can be used with advantage. With some of +the older, direct dyes like Congo red, Benzo azurine, Diamine scarlets, +the proportion of water may be increased to twenty times the weight of +the cotton. In any case the quantity of water used should not exceed +twenty-five times the weight of the cotton. + +The second factor, the quantity of saline salts, like Glauber's salt, +soda, borax, etc., added in the dyeing, is not without influence, +generally the more that is added the more dye there is left in the bath, +but here again much depends upon the salt and the colouring matters +used. Some salts, more particularly Glauber's salt and common salt, tend +to throw some dye-stuffs out of the bath, and so the more there is used +of them the deeper the shade produced on the fabric. It is quite +impossible, having regard to the scope of this book, to deal with this +question in detail. The dyer should ascertain for himself the best salts +and the best proportions of these to use with the particular dyes he is +using. The recipes given above will give him some ideas on this point. + +The third factor, the degree of affinity of the dye for the cotton +fibre, has some influence on the depth of shade which can be dyed from +any given strength of the dye-bath. There is a very considerable +difference among the direct dyes in this respect. There are some which +have a fair degree of affinity, while there are others which have but +little affinity, and while in the former case there is little dye left +in the bath, in the latter case there is a good deal. When dyeing plain +shades with single dye-stuffs this is not of much moment, because if the +bath be kept for further use, as will be spoken of presently, the bath +may be brought up to its original strength by adding a proportionate +amount of dye-stuff, but when compound shades are being dyed, using two +or more dyes, then this feature has some influence, for they will not be +absorbed by the fibre in the same proportion as they were put in the +bath, and so when making up the dye-bath for the second lot, and adding +the same proportion of dyes, the shade which is produced will not be +quite the same, for the first lot of cotton in taking up the dyes in +varying quantities has altered their relative proportions, and so the +bath for the second lot of cotton will actually contain more of one dye +than did the first bath, and the influence of this excess of the one +constituent will show itself in the shade ultimately dyed. The more lots +of cotton there are dyed in the bath the greater will this influence be. +The dyer must by practical experience find out for himself in what +direction this feature of the direct dyes exerts its influence on the +particular dyes he is working with and make due allowance. + +It is found in practice that from one-fourth to one-half of the original +weight of dye-stuff is left in the bath, and in order to be as +economical as possible a custom has arisen of keeping the bath and using +it again for dyeing further lots of cotton. In thus making a continuous +use of dye-baths it is important in preparing the baths for the next lot +of cotton to add first the requisite quantities of dye-stuffs, how much +will depend upon the factors and conditions already detailed, but from +one-half to three-fourths of the original quantities are added. +Practical experience alone is the guide to be followed. + +Having added the dye-stuff, then sufficient water must be added to bring +up the volume of the bath to the proper amount, for it will have lost +some. The loss of water arises from two sources: first there is the +evaporation, which always occurs when dye-baths are heated up, and, +second, there is the mechanical loss due to its absorption by the +material which is being dyed. When a piece of cotton or other textile +fabric is immersed in a dye liquor it absorbs mechanically some of it, +and this amount may be roughly put down as about its own weight; thus +100 lb. weight of cotton will take up 10 gallons of liquor and carry +that quantity out of the bath. To some extent this may be minimised by a +previous wetting out of the cotton, which will then have in it as much +liquor as it will take up, and so practically no more will be taken up +from the dye-bath. Any loss of volume which may thus occur can be +remedied by the addition of water. + +The dye-baths containing in solution, in addition to the dye-stuff, +salt, or Glauber's salt, or any other added substance, the cotton in +taking up the dye liquor will of course take up some of these in +proportion to the volume of liquor absorbed. The amount may range from 4 +oz. to 1 lb. per gallon of liquor, and if 100 lb. cotton is being dyed +and takes up from 10 to 15 gallons of liquor, it is obvious that it must +absorb from 3 to 10 lb. of saline matter, and as the salinity of the dye +liquor is of some importance in dyeing direct colours, in making up the +bath for the next lot of cotton this must be allowed for and suitable +additions made. In order to do this properly it is a good plan to rely +upon the Twaddell. + +The dyer should take the Twaddell of his bath before use and always make +up his baths to that strength. This will be found to range from 3 deg. to +12 deg. Tw. + +Thus, for instance, a dye-bath made from 120 gallons of water with 20 +lb. to 25 lb. common salt or Glauber's salt with the dye-stuffs will +stand at 4 deg. Tw., one made with 50 lb. common salt or Glauber's salt at +8 deg. Tw., while one which is made with 80 lb. to 100 lb. salt will stand +at 12 deg. to 13 deg. Tw. If the dyer always maintains his liquors at one +uniform degree Twaddell he can invariably depend upon getting uniform +shades from his dye-baths. This uniform strength is attained by adding +more salt or more water as the case may require. + +Of course the continuous working of dye-baths cannot go on for ever; +sooner or later the baths become thick and dirty, and then they must be +thrown away and a new bath started. + + +(2) DIRECT DYEING FOLLOWED BY FIXATION WITH METALLIC SALTS. + +It is an acknowledged principle in dyeing that to produce colours fast +to washing, soaping and rubbing, there must be produced on the fibre an +insoluble coloured substance. Now as the direct dyes do not essentially +produce such insoluble bodies when dyed on the cotton, the colours they +form are not always fast to washing and soaping. It has been +ascertained, however, that some of the direct dyes, _e.g._, Benzo +azurine, Chicago blue, Catechu browns, Diamine blues, Diamine browns, +etc., are capable of uniting with metallic bodies to form insoluble +colour lakes, and this combination can take place on the fibre. Fast +shades may be dyed with the dye-stuffs named above, and with others of +this group, by first dyeing them in the usual way, then passing through +a boiling bath containing bichromate of potash or copper sulphate, +either together or separately. The two fixing agents here named have +been found to be the best, although others, as, for instance, zinc +sulphate, chromium fluoride and iron sulphate have been tried. With some +dyes there is little or no alteration in shade, but in others there is +some change, thus the blues as a rule tend to become greener in tone, +and browns also tend to acquire a greener tone and deeper shade. The +treated shades thus obtained are notable for considerable fastness to +washing, soaping and light. It is to be noted that bichromate of potash +exercises both a fixing and an oxidising action on dye-stuffs, hence it +is needful to use it with some degree of caution and not in too great an +amount, otherwise with some dyes there is a risk of over-oxidation, and +in consequence poor shades will be developed. The following recipes will +serve to show what dyes may thus be used, and the colours that can be +obtained with them. + +_Dark Red._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine fast red F, 3 lb. soda +and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, work at the boil for one hour, then lift, +rinse and pass into a boiling bath containing 3 lb. fluoride of chromium +for ten to fifteen minutes, then lift, rinse and dry. By using 1 lb. of +the dye-stuff in the same way a light red shade is got. + +_Orange._--Dye at the boil for one hour with 1 lb. Chrysamine G, 3 lb. +soap and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then rinse and fix in a fresh boiling +bath with 1 lb. bichromate of potash, 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. +acetic acid. + +_Yellow._--Dye with 3-1/2 lb. Diamine yellow N, 3 lb. soap and 15 lb. +phosphate of soda, then fix with 4 lb. fluoride of chromium. + +_Gold Yellow._--Prepare the dye-bath with 3 lb. Benzo chrome brown 5 G, +1 lb. soda ash, 12 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour and +rinse. This gives an orange brown. To get the yellow shade, afterwards +chrome with 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 3 lb. sulphate of copper, 1 lb. +acetic acid, in a fresh bath. Enter at about 130 deg. F., bring to the boil, +and boil for half an hour. + +_Pale Leaf Green._--Dye with 3 lb. Dianil yellow 3 G, 1 lb. Dianil +yellow R, 1 lb. Dianil blue G, and 20 lb. salt, then fix with 3 lb. +copper sulphate and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Leaf Green._--Dye with 3 lb. Dianil yellow 3 G, 3 lb. Dianil blue G, +and 20 lb. salt, fixing with 4 lb. copper sulphate and 2 lb. acetic +acid. + +_Dark Green._--Dye with 2 lb. Dianil yellow R, 1-1/2 lb. Dianil dark +blue R, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt, fixing with 3 lb. copper sulphate. + +_Pale Olive Green._--Dye with 2-3/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 1-1/4 lb. +Diamine blue R W, 3/4 lb. Diamine blue R W, 3/4 lb. Diamine catechine G; +fix with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Russia Green._--Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Diamine blue R W, 10 oz. Diamine +dark blue B, 2-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt; fix with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Blue Green._--Dye with 1-3/4 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 6 oz. Diamine +fast yellow B, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 2 lb. +sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid. + +_Bronze Green._--Use in the bath at the boil 4 lb. Diamine bronze G, 2 +lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then fix with 4 lb. fluoride of +chromium. + +_Pea Green._--Dye in a boiling bath with 1/2 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, +2-1/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, +then fix in a fresh bath with 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic +acid. + +_Leaf Green._--Dye at the boil for one hour in a bath containing 2-3/4 +lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 1-3/4 lb. Diamine blue R W, 7 oz. Diamine +catechine B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, then fix in a new +bath with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Light Green._--Prepare the dye-bath with 7-1/4 oz. Diamine blue R W, +5-1/2 oz. Diamine orange B, 2 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 1 lb. soda and +10 lb. Glauber's salt, work at the boil for one hour, then treat in a +fresh bath with 3 lb. sulphate of copper. + +_Olive Green._--Dye with 2-1/4 lb. Chicago blue R W, 15 oz. Chrysamine +G, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 1 lb. bichromate of +potash, 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Pea Green._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Chrysophenine G, 1 lb. Chicago +blue 6 B, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for +one hour, then fix in a fresh boiling bath with 3 lb. sulphate of copper +and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Green._--Dye with 2-3/4 lb. Chicago blue 6 B, 5 oz. Chrysamine G, 2 lb. +soap and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 1 lb. bichromate of potash, 3 +lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Dark Green._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine green B, 1-1/2 oz. Diamine +bronze G, 1 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's +salt, working at the boil for one hour, then lift, rinse and fix in a +fresh boiling bath with 3 lb. fluoride of chromium for one to fifteen +minutes. + +_Dark Bronze._--Use in the dye-bath 2-1/2 lb. Diamine bronze G, 3 lb. +soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour, then +lift, rinse and fix with 3 lb. fluoride of chromium as above. + +_Dark Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 3 lb. Benzo blue R W, 10 lb. +Glauber's salt; dye for one hour at the boil, then treat in fresh bath +with 1 lb. sulphate of copper at the boil for half an hour. + +_Blue._--Dye with 1-3/4 lb. Diamine brilliant blue G, 1-1/4 lb. Diamine +sky blue F F, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix in a bath with 4 +lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Light Navy._--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine blue 3 R, 2-1/4 lb. Diamine blue R +W, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 4 lb. sulphate of +copper and 20 lb. acetic acid. + +_Bright Navy._--Dye with 4 lb. Diamine brilliant blue G, 2 lb. soda and +20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. +acetic acid. + +_Blue._--Dye with 3 lb. Chicago blue R W, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt; fix with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Dark Blue._--- Dye with 3 lb. Chicago blue R W, 1-1/2 lb. Zambesi black +F, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 3 lb. sulphate of +copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Deep Slate Blue._--Dye with 1-1/4 lb. Zambesi black F, 1-1/4 lb. +Chicago blue B, 6 oz. Columbia yellow, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's +salt; fix with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Light Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 2 oz. Diamine sky blue F F, +3/4 oz. Diamine fast yellow A, 1/2 lb. soda, 2 lb. soap and 5 lb. +Glauber's salt; dye for one hour at the boil, then treat in a fresh bath +with 1-1/2 lb. sulphate of copper for half an hour. + +_Dark Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Benzo chrome black blue B, +15 lb. Glauber's salt and 3 lb. soda. Work at the boil for one hour, +then chrome in a fresh bath with 1 lb. bichromate of potash, 1 lb. +sulphate of copper and 1/2 lb. sulphuric acid. + +_Dark Blue._--Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Diamineral blue R, 3 lb. soda and 20 +lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 2 lb. sulphate of copper, 2 lb. bichromate +of potash and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Turquoise Blue._--Dye with 1 lb. Chicago blue 6 B, 2 lb. soda and 10 +lb. Glauber's salt, and fix with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. +acetic acid. + +_Dark Turquoise Blue._--Dye with 3 lb. Chicago blue 4 B, 2 lb. soda and +10 lb. Glauber's salt, and fix with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lbs. +acetic acid. + +_Black Blue._--Dye with 4-1/4 lb. Diamine dark blue B, 1 lb. Diamine new +blue R, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with 5 lb. sulphate +of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +By mixing together the various Diamine blues a very great range of +shades can be produced, from pale sky-blue tints to the deepest of +blues. + +_Bright Blue._--Dye with 2-1/4 lb. Dianil blue B and 20 lb. Glauber's +salt; fix with 3 lb. of fluoride of chromium. + +_Dark Blue._--Dye with 3 lb. Dianil blue B, 1 lb. Dianil dark blue R, 1 +lb. soda and 20 lb. salt, fixing with 3 lb. fluoride of chromium. + +_Red Violet._--Dye with 1 lb. Dianil blue 4 R and 10 lb, salt, fixing +with 4 lb. fluoride of chromium. + +_Dark Plum._--Dye with 3 lb. Dianil blue 4 R and 15 lb. salt, fixing +with 4 lb. fluoride of chromium. + +_Red Violet._--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine blue 3 R, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt, fixing with 1-1/2 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. +acetic acid. + +_Red Plum._--Use 3-3/4 lb. Diamine blue 3 R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, fixing with 5 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic +acid. + +_Dark Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Diamine catechine B, 3 +lb. soda and 15 lb. Glauber's salt and dye at the boil for one hour, +then treat with 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. bichromate of potash. + +_Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Paramine brown C, 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soda and dye at the boil for one hour; treat with +3 lb. copper sulphate. + +_Light Brown._--Dye at the boil for one hour in a bath containing 5 lb. +Diamine catechine G, 3 lb. soda and 15 lb. Glauber's salt, then treat in +a fresh bath with 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. bichromate of +potash. + +_Dark Chestnut Brown._--Dye for an hour in a boiling bath with 2-1/4 lb. +Diamine catechine G, 1-1/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 3 lb. soda and 20 +lb. Glauber's salt; then fix in a fresh boiling bath with 2 lb. sulphate +of copper, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. acetic acid, working for +fifteen to twenty minutes, then rinsing and drying. + +_Brown._--Use 3 lb. Catechu brown G K, 15 lb. Glauber's salt and 1/2 lb. +soap; after dyeing for one hour at the boil treat in a fresh boiling +bath with 3 lb. copper sulphate. + +_Dark Brown._--Dye at the boil for one hour with 3 lb. Catechu brown F +K, 15 lb. Glauber's salt and 1 lb. soap, then treat in a fresh boiling +bath with 3 lb. copper sulphate. + +_Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 9 oz. Diamine blue R W, 12-1/2 oz. +Diamine orange B, 1-3/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt; after working for one hour at the boil treat in a fresh +boiling bath with 4 lb. sulphate of copper. + +_Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Benzo chrome brown 2 R, 20 +lb. Glauber's salt (crystals) and dye at the boil for one hour; +afterwards treat with bichromate of potash and sulphate of copper. + +_Nut Brown._--Dye in a bath with 4 lb. Benzo chrome brown G and 20 lb. +salt, then treat in a fresh bath with 4 lb. bichromate of potash, 4 lb. +copper sulphate and 1 lb. acetic acid. + +_Chestnut Brown._--Dye at the boil for one hour in a bath containing 4 +lb. Benzo chrome brown R, and boiling bath with 4 lb. bichromate of +potash, 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid. + +_Dark Olive Brown._--Dye with 4 lb. Diamine bronze G, 1 lb. Diamine +orange B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 5 lb. sulphate +of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Deep Brown._--Use in the Dye-bath 1-3/4 lb. Diamine brown B, 1-3/4 lb. +Diamine fast yellow B, 1/2 oz. Diamine black B H, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt. The fixing bath contains 2 lb. sulphate of copper, 2 lb. +bichromate of potash, and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Dark Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine brown M, 1 lb. Diamine fast red F, +1/2 lb. Diamine jet black Cr, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. The +fixing bath contains 2 lb. sulphate of copper, 2 lb. bichromate of +potash and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Black Brown._--Dye with 1-3/4 lb. Diamine dark blue B, 3/4 lb. Diamine +orange B, 1-3/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, fixing with 5 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic +acid. + +_Light Sage Brown._--Dye with 3/4 lb. Diamine brown B, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine +fast yellow B, 3 oz. Diamine dark blue B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, fixing with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic +acid. + +_Pale Brown._--Use in the dye-bath 1 lb. Dianil brown 3 G O, 4 oz. +Dianil brown E, 4 oz. Dianil black N, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt, +fixing with 1-1/2 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid. + +_Walnut Brown._--Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Diamine blue 3 R, 1 lb. Diamine +brown M, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, then fix with 5 lb. +sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Pale Fawn Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine blue 3 R, 1 lb. Diamine brown +M, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, then fix with 5 lb. sulphate of +copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Pale Fawn Brown._--Dye with 1/2 lb. Diamine orange B, 1/4 lb. Diamine +fast yellow B, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with 2 lb. +sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid. + +_Sage Brown._--Dye with 9 oz. Diamine blue R W, 3/4 lb. Diamine orange +B, 1-3/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's +salt. The fixing is done with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic +acid. + +_Red Chocolate._--Dye with 3 lb. Diamine orange B, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt; fix with 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid. + +_Dark Chestnut._--Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Dianil brown 3 G O, 13 oz. Dianil +brown R, 13 oz. Dianil brown B D, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt, fixing +with 3 lb. copper sulphate and 1 lb. acetic acid. + +_Brown._--Dye with 2-1/4 lb. Chrysophenine G, 1-1/4 lb. Diamine brown G, +1-1/4 lb. Chicago blue R W, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt; fix +with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Nut Brown._--Dye with 3 lb. Chromanil brown 2 G, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt; fix with 1 lb. bichromate of potash, 3 lb. sulphate of +copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Dark Grey._--Dye at the boil for one hour with 1 lb. Zambesi black F, 3 +lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; fix in a fresh boiling bath with 3 +lb. sulphate of copper, 1 lb. bichromate of potash and 10 lb. Glauber's +salt. + +_Dark Grey._--Dye with 3 lb. Chromanil black 4 R F, 3 lb. soda and 10 +lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 1 lb. bichromate of potash, 3 lb. sulphate +of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Dark Grey._--Use in the dye-bath 1 lb. Diamine blue R W, 1/2 lb. +Diamine orange B, 1/4 lb. Diamine new blue R, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, fixing with 4 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic +acid. + +_Pale Greenish Grey._--Dye with 1/4 oz. Diamine orange B, 3 oz. Diamine +blue R W, 1/2 lb. soda, 2 lb. soap and 5 lb. Glauber's salt, fixing with +1 lb. sulphate of copper and 1/2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Slate Blue._--Dye with 1/4 lb. Diamine dark blue B, 2 oz. Diamine new +blue R, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; fix with 2 lb. sulphate of +copper and 1 lb. acetic acid. + +_Grey._--Prepare the dye-bath with 2 lb. Cross-dye black 2 B, 5 lb. soda +ash, 15 lb. common salt; after rinsing leave the cotton in the air to +age overnight, rinse again and work for half to three-quarters of an +hour at from 150 deg. to 160 deg. F. in a bath containing 5 lb. bichromate of +potash and 5 lb. sulphuric acid, then thoroughly rinse and dry. + +_Dark Grey._--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine jet black Cr, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt, fixing with 1 lb. bichromate of potash and 1/2 lb. +acetic acid. + +_Green Grey._--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine dark blue B, 2 oz. Diamine orange +B, 4 oz. Diamine fast yellow B, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, +fixing with 3 lb. sulphate of copper and 1 lb. acetic acid. + +_Grey._--Dye with 4 oz. Dianil black N, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. salt, +fixing with 1 lb. copper sulphate and 1/2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 5-1/2 lb. Diamine jet black R B, 1 +lb. Diamine dark blue B, 20 lb. Glauber's salt; dye at the boil for one +hour, rinse and then treat the goods simmering for twenty minutes with 4 +lb. bichromate of potash. + +_Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 8 lb. Chromanil black R F and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt; dye at the boil for one hour, then treat boiling hot for +about thirty minutes in a fresh bath with 1 lb. bichromate of potash +and 3 lb. sulphate of copper. Add 6 lb. only of the dye-stuff to the +bath for a second batch. + +_Black._--Use 5 lb. Dianil black N, 5 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt; then fix +with 3 lb. copper sulphate, 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. acetic +acid. + +_Black._--Use in the dye-bath 5 lb. Dianil black C R. 3 lb. caustic +soda, 36 deg. Tw. and 20 lb. salt, fixing with 3 lb. copper sulphate, 3 lb. +bichromate of potash and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Jet Black._--Dye with 5 lb. Diamine jet black Cr, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, fixing with 4 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. acetic +acid. + +It will be convenient here to deal with a small but growing and +important class of dye-stuffs which contain sulphur in their +composition, and which, therefore, are named:-- + +=Sulphur or Sulphyl Colours.= + +The original type of this group is Cachou de laval, sent out a good many +years ago, but of late years Vidal black, St. Dennis black, Cross-dye +blacks and drab, Immedial blacks, blues and browns, Amidazol blacks, +browns and olives, Sulfaniline black and brown, Katigen blacks, greens +and browns, etc., have been added, and the group is likely to become a +very numerous one in the future. + +All these colours are dyed on to the cotton or linen from baths +containing soda and salt, while some require the addition of sodium +sulphide or caustic soda in order to have the dye-stuff properly +dissolved. They are very weak dyes compared with the direct colours, and +require from 20 to 60 per cent. to produce full shades, although of this +fully one-third remains in the bath unabsorbed by the cotton. It is, +therefore, important in order to work as economically as possible to +retain the bath, bringing it up to strength by the addition of fresh +dye-stuffs, etc. + +Most of the dyes require the dyed goods to pass through a second bath of +some reagent, bichromate of potash, sulphate of copper, etc., in order +to fully develop and fix the dye on the fabric. + +The best method of using the various dyes of this group will be given in +the form of formulae. Two points of importance are to use as strong a dye +liquor as possible, and to expose the cotton as little as possible to +the air during the dyeing operation. The dye-stuffs when exposed to the +air readily become oxidised, and are thereby converted into insoluble +products which become fixed on the fibre in a loose form, and in that +case the dyed fibre rubs rather badly. + +_Pale Brown._--Prepare a dye-bath with 15 lb. Cachou de laval, 10 lb. of +soda, and 10 lb. salt. The bath is not exhausted of colouring matter, +and by adding one-half of the above quantities of dye-stuff and salt may +be used again for another lot of cotton. After the dyeing the cotton is +passed into a fixing bath of 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. acetic +acid, working at 180 deg. F. ten to fifteen minutes. + +_Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 200 gallons of water, 10 lb. soda, +10 lb. sulphide of sodium, 60 lb. salt and 16 lb. Immedial black V +extra. Work at the boil for one hour, keeping the cotton well under the +surface during the operation, in the case of yarns this is effected by +using bent iron rods on which to hang the hanks in the vat, in the case +of pieces by working with vats the guide rollers of which are below the +surface of the dye liquor. After the dyeing the yarn or pieces are +squeezed, well rinsed in water, then passed into the fixing bath, which +contains 2 lb. sulphate of copper, 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 3 lb. +of acetic acid, for half an hour at 170 deg. to 180 deg. F. Bichromate of potash +used alone gives a reddish shade of black, sulphate of copper a greenish +shade, a mixture of the two gives a greenish shade. + +There are three brands of Immedial black, _viz._, V extra, G extra and +F F, which vary a little in the tone of black they produce. The method +of using is identical for all three. The dye-bath is not exhausted of +colour and so should be kept standing, for each subsequent lot of cotton +add 8 lb. Immedial black and 3 lb. sulphide of soda, and to every 10 +gallons of water added to bring the bath up to volume 1/2 lb. soda and 3 +lb. salt. + +These blacks are very fast to washing, light, etc. By using smaller +quantities of dye-stuff good greys can be dyed. + +_Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 10 lb. soda, 10 lb. sulphide of +sodium, 60 lb. salt and 25 lb. Vidal black, work at the boil for one +hour, then rinse and fix with 3 lb bichromate of potash and 2 lb. +sulphuric acid. + +_Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 30 lb. Cross-dye black B, 10 lb. +soda, 150 lb. salt. Dissolve the dye-stuff in boiling water, then add +the soda crystals and finally the salt. Enter the previously well-boiled +cotton at about 175 deg. F. After a few turns raise the temperature to the +boil as quickly as possible, and work for one hour (just at the boil). +Lift and thoroughly rinse without delay. (The better the cotton is +washed the clearer the ultimate shade.) After washing, wring up and let +air age for about one hour; the intensity of the black is thereby +increased. + +Meanwhile prepare a bath with 5 lb. bichromate of potash, 4 lb. +sulphuric acid (168 deg. Tw.). Enter at 150 deg. to 160 deg. F., and work at this +for about ten minutes. After chroming, wash thoroughly to remove all +traces of acid. At this stage, the usual softening may take place if +desirable, and finally dry at a low temperature. + +The bath is kept up for further lots, and three-fourths the quantity of +colouring matter, and about half soda and one fourth salt are used. +Wood, or iron cisterns are most suitable, and copper pans or pipes must +be avoided. + +The dye-bath should be kept as short as possible, about twelve to +fifteen times the amount of water on the weight of cotton is advisable. +The cotton when in the dye-bath should be exposed as little as possible +to the air. + +There are several brands of these Cross-dye blacks varying in the tone +of black they give. + +_Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. soda ash, 200 lb. salt and 20 +lb. Amidazol black G, this is heated to 150 deg. F., the cotton is entered, +the heat raised to the boil, and the dyeing done for an hour at that +heat. Lift, rinse well, then pass into a chroming bath, made from 5 lb. +bichromate of potash and 3 lb. sulphuric acid, used at 160 deg. F. for +twenty minutes, then lift, wash well and dry. The bath may be kept +standing and used for other lots of cotton by replenishing with about +two-thirds of the original weight of dye-stuff and a little soda. There +are four brands of these Amidazol blacks which dye from a jet black with +the G to a deep blue black with the 6 G brand. The G, 2 G, and 4 G, used +in small quantities, 2-1/2 to 3 lb., dye good greys of a bluish tone, +the 6 G gives a dull blue, the 4 G and 6 G, used in the proportions of +7-1/2 to 10 per cent., give dark blues. + +All these blacks may be combined with aniline black with good results as +shown in the following recipe:-- + +_Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 10 lb. Amidazol black 2 G, 5 lb. +soda and 100 lb. salt. Work at the boil for an hour, then rinse, pass +into a cold bath made from 2-1/2 lb. aniline oil, 2-1/2 lb. hydrochloric +acid, 6-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid, 7-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash, and +5-1/2 lb. perchloride of iron, 66 deg. Tw. This is used cold for an hour, +then the heat is slowly raised to 160 deg. F., when the operation is +finished, and the cotton is taken out well rinsed and finished as usual. +Any of this class of black may be so topped with aniline black if +thought necessary A very fast black is thus got. + +_Black._--Make the dye-bath with 15 lb. Sulfaniline black G, 60 lb. +salt, 10 lb. soda, and 5 lb. sulphide of sodium. Work at a little under +the boil, then lift, rinse well and pass into a hot bath of 3 lb. +bichromate of potash, 3 lb. sulphate of copper, and 4 lb. acetic acid +for half an hour, then lift, rinse well and dry. + +It has been observed in the practical application on a large scale of +these sulphur blacks that the cotton is liable to become tendered on +being stored, although there are few signs of such after the dyeing is +finished. The exact cause of this is somewhat uncertain, the most +probable reason is that during the process of dyeing a deposit of +sulphur in a fine state of division has been thrown down on the cotton +by decomposition of the dye-stuff, and that this sulphur has in time +become oxidised to sulphuric acid which then exerts its well-known +tendering action on the cotton. + +The remedy for this evil lies partly with the dye manufacturer and +chiefly with the dyer. The dye manufacturer should see that his product +is made as free from sulphur as possible, while the dyer by careful +attention to thorough washing, thorough fixation in the chrome, etc. +baths, tends to eliminate all sulphur from the goods, and so prevent all +possibility of the cotton becoming affected. + +_Blue._--Make the dye-bath with 22 lb. Immedial blue C, 13 lb. sulphide +of sodium, 50 lb. salt and 15 lb. caustic soda lye at 70 deg. Tw. Work at +just under the boil for one hour, keeping the goods well under the +surface of the liquor. After the dyeing the goods are well rinsed in the +water and then passed into a vat which contains 1 lb. peroxide of sodium +and 1 lb. sulphuric acid. This is started cold, after about fifteen +minutes heat slowly to about 150 deg., work for twenty minutes, then lift, +wash and dry. For subsequent lots of cotton there only need be used 7 +lb. Immedial blue C. 2 lb. sulphide of sodium, 3 lb. salt and 1-1/2 lb. +caustic soda lye at 70 deg. Tw. The blue may also be developed by steaming +with air in a suitable chest or steaming chamber. By topping with 1/4 +lb. New methylene blue N, very bright blue shades can be dyed. + +_Dark Navy._--Prepare the dye-bath with 25 lb. Immedial blue C, 24 lb. +sulphide of sodium, 35 lb. common salt and 12 lb. caustic soda lye, +working at the boil for one hour, then rinse and develop in a bath made +from 2-1/2 lb. peroxide of sodium and 2-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid, started +cold, then after twenty minutes heated to 160 deg. F., twenty minutes longer +at that heat will be sufficient. For second and subsequent lots of +cotton there is added to the old bath 15 lb. Immedial blue C, 4 lb. +sulphide of sodium, 5 lb. salt and 2 lb. caustic soda lye of 70 deg. Tw. + +_Blue._--A pale but not very bright shade of blue is dyed in a bath of 3 +lb. Amidazol black 6 G, 5 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt. After working for +one hour at the boil, lift, rinse and pass into a bath which contains +2-1/2 lb. peroxide of sodium and 2-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid; this is +started cold, then heated to 150 deg. F., and kept at that heat for twenty +minutes, when the cotton is taken out, well washed and dried. + +_Deep Blue._--Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol black 6 G, 5 lb. soda and 200 lb. +salt; develop with 2 lb. peroxide of sodium and 2-1/2 lb. sulphuric +acid, working as noted above. + +_Dark Drab._--Prepare the dye-bath with 20 lb. Cross-dye drab, 5 lb. +soda crystals and 80 lb. salt, work at the boil for an hour, then lift, +wash well and dry; this can be chromed if desired. + +_Brown._--Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol cutch, 5 lb. soda ash and 150 lb. +salt, working at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash thoroughly and +dry. By after treatment in a bath of 3 lb. potassium bichromate and 3 +lb. sulphuric acid the colour is made fast to washing. The shade is not +altered. + +_Buff._--Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Amidazol cutch, 5 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt, +working at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry. + +_Pale Sea Green._--Dye with 4 lb. Amidazol green Y, 5 lb. soda and 25 +lb. salt, working at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash well and +dry. + +_Dark Green._--Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol green B, 5 lb. soda and 20 lb. +salt; work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash thoroughly and dry. + +_Dark Brown._--Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol cachou, 5 lb. soda and 200 lb. +salt, working for an hour at the boil, then lift, rinse well and pass +into a chrome bath of 4 lb. potassium bichromate and 3 lb. sulphuric +acid at 50 deg. F. for half an hour, then wash well and dry. + +_Dark Sage._--Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol drab, 5 lb. soda ash and 150 lb. +salt for an hour at the boil, then lift and chrome with 4 lb. potassium +bichromate and 8 lb. sulphuric acid for thirty minutes at 150 deg. F., +washing well afterwards. + +All the Amidazol dyes are very fast to washing, acids, etc. They can be +treated with sulphate of copper or peroxide of sodium when they produce +good shades. They may even be diazotised and developed with +beta-naphthol and phenylene diamine. The pale tints got by using from 2 +to 4 per cent. of dye-stuff are useful ones, as also are the medium +shades with 10 per cent. of dye-stuff. + +_Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 10 lb. Sulfaniline brown 4 B, 50 lb. +salt, 10 lb. soda and 5 lb sulphide of sodium; work at the boil for one +hour, then lift, wash and treat in a fresh bath with 3 lb. potassium +bichromate and 2 lb. acetic acid at 160 deg. F. for half an hour, then wash +well and dry. + +_Olive._--Dye with 10 lb. Katigen olive G, 50 lb. salt, 10 lb. soda and +6 lb. sulphide of sodium; work for one hour at the boil, then lift, wash +and treat in a fresh bath with 2 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. +sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid for half an hour at the boil, +then wash. + +_Dark Olive._--Dye with 20 lb. Katigen olive G, 50 lb. salt, 10 lb. +soda, and 6 lb. sulphide of sodium, working at the boil for one hour, +then lift, wash and dry. By chroming a darker and faster olive is got. + +_Brown._--Dye with 20 lb. Katigen dark brown, 50 lb. salt, 10 lb. soda +and 6 lb. sulphide of sodium at the boil for one hour, then treat in a +fresh bath with 2 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. sulphate of copper and +2 lb. acetic acid for half an hour at the boil, then wash well. + +_Pale Brown._--Dye with 8 lb. Immedial bronze A, 2 lb. soda, 2 lb. +sulphide of sodium and 10 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour, +then lift, rinse and pass into a fresh bath containing 1 lb. bichromate +of potash and 2 lb. acetic-acid at 150 deg. F. for half an hour, then lift, +wash and dry. + +_Dark Brown._--Dye with 12 lb. Immedial brown B, 5 lb. sulphide of +sodium, 5 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt at the boil for one hour, then lift +and treat in a fresh bath with 2 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. +sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +The Immedial blacks, blue, bronze and brown dye very fast shades, +standing soaping, acids and light. They may be combined together to +produce a great range of shades of blue, brown, green, grey, etc. + +These examples will perhaps suffice to show how this new but important +class of sulphyl colours are applied to the dyeing of cotton. They may +be topped with aniline black, indigo, basic dyes, or combined with such +direct dyes as produce shades fast to chroming to form a very great +range of shades which have the merit of fastness. + + +(3) DIRECT DYEING FOLLOWED BY FIXATION WITH DEVELOPERS. + +A large number of the dyes prepared from coal tar are called azo +colours, such for instance are the Biebrich and Croceine scarlets and +oranges, Naphthol black, Congo red, etc., just to name a few. The +preparation of these is about the simplest operation of colour +chemistry, and consists in taking as the base an amido compound as the +chemist calls such. These amido compounds, of which aniline, toluidine, +benzidine, naphthylamine are familiar examples, are characterised by +containing the molecular group NH{2}, which radicle is built up of the +two elements nitrogen and hydrogen. All compounds which contain this +group are basic in character and combine with acids to form well-defined +salts. When these amido bodies are treated with sodium nitrite and +hydrochloric acid they undergo a chemical change, the feature of which +is that the nitrogen atoms present in the amido compound and in the +nitrite unite together and a new compound is produced which is called a +diazo compound, and the operation is called "diazotisation". + +For example when paranitroaniline is subjected to this reaction it +undergoes a change indicated in the chemical equation:-- + +C{6}H{4}NO{2}NH{2}, + NaNO{2}, + 2HCl = Paranitroaniline, Sodium +nitrite, Hydrochloric acid. + +C{6}H{4}NO{2}N: NCl + NaCl + 2H{2}0 = Paranitro benzene Sodium +chloride, Water, diazo chloride. + +The above, put into words, means that when paranitroaniline is dissolved +with hydrochloric acid and treated with nitrite of soda it forms +diazonitro benzene chloride, sodium chloride and water. Now the diazo +compounds are rather unstable bodies, but they have a great affinity for +other compounds, such as naphthol, phenylene diamine, phenol, and +combine easily with them when brought into contact with them. The new +compounds thus made form the dye-stuffs of commerce. + +The azo dyes contain the characteristic group of two nitrogen atoms +shown in the formula N: N. In dealing with the production of colours +direct on the fibre this subject will be elaborated more fully. + +Now many of the direct dyes, Diamine blacks, Diamine cutch, Primuline, +Diazo brown, Zambesi blues, browns, etc., contain amido groups, by +reason of having been made from such bodies as phenylene diamine, amido +naphthol, toluidine, etc., and it has been found that when dyed on the +fibre they are capable of being diazotised by passing the dyed fibre +into a bath of sodium nitrite acidified with hydrochloric acid, and if +then they are placed into a bath containing such a body as +beta-naphthol, phenylene diamine, etc., new compounds or dyes are +produced, which are characterised by being insoluble in water, and +therefore as formed on the fibre in the manner indicated are very fast +to washing, soaping and similar agencies. + +Often the new or developed dye formed on the fibre differs markedly in +colour from the original dye. Perhaps in no case is this more strongly +shown than with Primuline. The original colour is a greenish yellow, but +by using various developers, as they are called, a great variety of +shade can be got, as shown in this table. + + +_Developer._ _Colour produced._ + +Beta-naphthol Bright scarlet. +Alpha-naphthol Crimson. +Phenylene diamine Brown. +Phenol Gold yellow. +Resorcine Orange. +Naphthylamine ether Blue. +Blue developer A N Green. + +As regards the dyeing operation, it no way differs from that described +for simple direct colours. It should, however, be noted that if good +results are required full shades must be dyed. The cotton must be +rinsed in cold water, and be quite cold before it is subjected to the +diazotising operation. _Diazotising_ is a simple operation, yet it must +be carried out with care if good results are desired. It consists +essentially in the use of an acidulated bath of sodium nitrite. + +To make the bath for diazotising there is taken (for each 100 lb. of +goods) sufficient water to handle them in comfortably, 8 lb. of sodium +nitrite and 6 lb. hydrochloric acid. This bath must be quite cold +otherwise it does not work well. The goods are handled in this for from +fifteen to twenty minutes, when they are ready for the next operation. +The bath is not exhausted of nitrite, etc., hence it can be kept +standing, and for each succeeding lot of cotton it is strengthened up by +adding one-third of the quantities of nitrite and acid originally used. +Of course the bath cannot be kept for ever, sooner or later it will get +dirty, and then it must be thrown away and a new bath be made up. + +The diazo compounds formed on the fibre are not very stable bodies. They +decompose on being exposed for any great length of time to the air, +while light has a strong action on most, if not all of them; hence it +follows that the diazotising process should not be carried out in a room +where direct, strong sunlight can enter or fall upon the goods. Then +again, after diazotising, the treated goods should not be allowed to lie +about exposed to air and light, but the operation of developing should +be proceeded with at once, otherwise the diazo body will decompose, and +weak and defective colours are liable to be obtained on subsequent +development. + +For _developing_, quite a large number of substances are used. Some of +these are regular articles of commerce, others are the special +productions of certain firms, who advise their use with the dyes that +they also manufacture. These latter are sent out under such designations +as Developer B, Developer A N, or Fast-blue developer. Those most in use +are beta-naphthol for red from Primuline, and for bluish blacks from +Diamine blacks, Diazo blacks, Zambesi blacks, etc.; for dark blues from +Diamine blues, Diazo blues, etc.; for greys from Diamine blues, Neutral +grey, etc. Alpha-naphthol for dark reds from Primuline, greys from +Diamine blues, Neutral grey, etc. Phenylene diamine for blacks from +Diamine blacks, Diazo blacks, Zambesi blacks, Triamine blacks, etc.; for +dark browns from Diamine browns, Diazo browns, etc.; for light browns +from Cotton browns, Diamine cutch, Primuline, etc. Naphthylamine ether +for blues from Diamine blacks, etc. Phenol for claret from Diamine +cutch, and for gold yellow from Primuline, etc. Resorcine for orange +from Primuline, etc. Soda for browns from Diamine cutch, Diazo browns, +Zambesi browns, for orange from Diamine orange, and yellow from +Primuline. + +=Beta-naphthol.=--This is by far the most important of the developers. +It is a white body, insoluble in water, but readily soluble in soda lye, +and a solution is easily made by taking 10 lb. beta-naphthol and heating +it with 10 lb. caustic soda lye of 70 deg. Tw. and 60 gallons of water. This +bath may be used as the developing bath, or it may be diluted with more +water. It is not desirable to use any more caustic soda than is +necessary to dissolve the beta-naphthol, so that the bath is not too +alkaline. To produce full shades it usually takes 1 per cent. of the +weight of the cotton of the beta-naphthol, but it is best to use the +bath as a continuous one and for the first lot of cotton use 2 per cent. +of naphthol, while for each succeeding lot only 1 per cent. more +naphthol need be added to the same bath. + +This bath is alkaline, while the diazotising bath is acid, unless, +therefore, the cotton be well washed when it is taken from the latter +bath there is a risk of the alkali of the one being neutralised by the +acidity of the other, and the naphthol being thrown out in an insoluble +form. This, of course, is easily remedied should it occur. + +Developer A (Bayer) is a mixture of beta-naphthol and caustic soda in +the powder form, so that a solution is obtained by simply adding water. +Rather more (about 1-1/2 per cent.) of this is required than of +beta-naphthol. + +=Alpha-naphthol= has similar properties to, and is used in the same way +as, beta-naphthol; it develops much darker and rather duller colours, +which are less fast to washing. + +=Resorcine=, like naphthol, is insoluble in water, but it can be +dissolved by using either soda ash or caustic soda. The latter is +preferable, as the former is liable to give a developing bath that +froths in working, especially if much acid has been left in the cotton +from the diazotising bath. The proportions are: 10 lb. resorcine, 25 lb. +caustic soda lye of 70 deg. Tw., and 60 gallons of water; or 10 lb. +resorcine, 20 lb. soda ash, and 60 gallons of water, heated until a +solution is obtained. In the developing bath 1 per cent. of resorcine is +usually sufficient to use. It develops an orange with Primuline. + +Developer F (Bayer) is a mixture of resorcine and soda ash. It requires +1-1/2 per cent, to make a developing bath. + +=Phenol=, better known as carbolic acid, finds a use as a developer. It +is dissolved in caustic soda, 10 lb. phenol, 15 lb. caustic soda lye of +70 deg. Tw., and 60 gallons of water. Generally 1 per cent. is sufficient to +use as a developer. It is often called yellow developer. + +=Naphthylamine ether= is used as a developer for blues in conjunction +with the Diamine blacks. It is prepared for use by dissolving in +hydrochloric acid, 10 lb. naphthylamine ether powder heated with 5 lb. +hydrochloric acid and 50 gallons water. About 1-1/4 per cent. is +required to form a developing bath. Naphthylamine ether is also sent out +in the form of a paste mixed with acid, and containing about 25 per +cent. of the actual developer. + +=Fast blue developer A D= (Cassella), is amidodiphenylamine. It is +insoluble in water, but soluble in dilute acid, 10 lb. fast blue +developer A D, 5 lb. hydrochloric acid and 35 gallons of water making +the bath. To develop full shades 1 to 1-1/2 per cent, is required. + +=Blue developer A N= (Cassella). The base of this is insoluble in water, +but dissolves in soda, and is probably a naphthol-sulpho acid. The +product, as met with in the market, is soluble in water, and 27 lb. +dissolved in 20 gallons of water form the bath. To produce full shades +1-1/2 per cent, is usually required. + +=Phenylene diamine= is a most important developer. It comes into the +market in two forms, as a powder, very nearly pure, made into a solution +by dissolving 10 lb. with 20 gallons of water and 5 lb. hydrochloric +acid, and as a solution prepared ready for use. Developer C (Bayer) and +developer E (Bayer) are preparations of diamine, the former in a powder, +the latter in a solution. Phenylene diamine can be used with the +addition to the developing bath of acetic acid or soda. + +=Schaeffer's acid= is a sulpho acid of beta-naphthol, and is dissolved +by taking 10 lb. of the acid and 7-1/2 lb. soda, boiling with 50 gallons +of water. About 1-1/4 per cent. is required for developing full shades. + +Developer B (Bayer) is ethyl beta-naphthylamine, in the form of its +hydrochloric acid compound. The bath is made from 10 lb. of the +developer and 50 gallons of water, 1-1/4 per cent. being used to obtain +full shades. + +Developer D (Bayer) is dioxy-naphthalene-sulpho acid, and simply +requires dissolving in water to make the bath. + +=Toluylene diamine= is a homologue of phenylene diamine and is used in +precisely the same way. + +Generally the special developers issued by the various colour firms +simply require dissolving in water to form the developing bath. + +The cotton, previously being passed through the diazotising bath, is +then run into the developing bath, in which it is kept for from twenty +to thirty minutes or until the required shade is fully developed, after +which it is taken out, rinsed and dried. The method of working is the +same for all the developers, and may be carried out in any kind of +vessels. As is indicated above, the developing baths may be kept +standing and be freshened up as required; they are used cold. Sometimes +two developers are mixed together, in which case care should be taken +that an alkaline developer naphthol or phenol be not mixed with an acid +developer (phenylene diamine, naphthylamine, etc.), unless the acidity +of the latter has been neutralised with soda; otherwise the developer +might be thrown out of the bath in an insoluble and hence useless form. + +The advantages of the diazotising and developing process just described +may be summed as--easy and quick working, superior fastness to washing, +soaping and milling, increased fastness to light and softness of the +dyed fibre. + +_Scarlet._--Dye with 3 lb. Primuline and 20 lb. salt, at the boil for +one hour, diazotise and develop with beta-naphthol. + +_Crimson._--Dye with 3 lb. Primuline and 20 lb. salt, then diazotise and +develop with alpha-naphthol. + +_Red Brown._--Dye with 4 lb. Primuline and 20 lb. salt, then diazotise +and develop with phenylene diamine. + +_Deep Orange._--Dye with 3 lb. Primuline and 20 lb. salt, then diazotise +and develop with resorcine. + +_Pale Orange._--Dye with 3 lb. Primuline and 20 lb. salt, then diazotise +and develop with phenol. + +_Sage Brown._--Dye with 6 lb. Primuline, 3 lb. Titan ingrain blue and 20 +lb. salt, then diazotise and develop with resorcine. + +_Dark Maroon._--Dye with 6 lb. Primuline, 3 lb. Titan ingrain blue and +20 lb. salt, then diazotise and develop with beta-naphthol. + +_Dark Crimson._--Dye with 5-3/4 lb. Primuline, 1/4 lb. Titan ingrain +blue and 20 lb. salt, then diazotise and develop with beta-naphthol. + +_Dark Blue._--Dye with 3 lb. Zambesi blue B X, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with amidonaphthol ether. + +_Dark Brown._--Dye with 8 lb. Zambesi brown 2 G, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with toluylene diamine. + +_Blue Black._--Dye with 4 lb. Zambesi blue B X, 2 lb. Zambesi black D, 2 +lb. soda and 20 lb. salt, then diazotise and develop with 3/4 lb. +toluylene diamine and 1/2 lb. beta-naphthol. + +_Red._--Dye with 4-1/2 lb. Primuline, 1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A and +20 lb. salt, then diazotise and develop with beta-naphthol. + +_Dark Brown._--Dye with 4 lb. Primuline, 1 lb. Diamine azo blue R R, and +20 lb. salt, then diazotise and develop with beta-napthol. + +_Deep Chestnut Brown._--Dye with 5 lb. Diamine cutch, 1 lb. soda and 20 +lb. Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop by passing for twenty +minutes in a boiling bath of soda. + +_Dark Brown._--Dye with 4 lb. Diamine cutch, 1 lb. Diamine black B H, 2 +lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with +phenol. + +_Black Brown._--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine brown M, 1-1/2 lb. Primuline, 1 +oz. Diamine black B H, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, then +diazotise and develop with phenylene diamine. + +_Blue._--Dye with 2 lb. Diaminogene blue B B, 1/2 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with beta-naphthol. A dark +blue is got by using 8 lb. of Diaminogene blue B B in the same way. + +_Dark Blue._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Diaminogene blue B B, +1-1/10 lb. Diamine azo blue R R, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. +Dye at the boil for one hour, rinse slightly in cold water, then enter +into a fresh cold bath prepared with 4 lb nitrite of soda previously +dissolved in water, and 12-1/2 lb. hydrochloric acid. For subsequent +lots in the same bath one-third of these additions is sufficient. After +diazotising rinse the goods in a bath weakly acidulated with +hydrochloric or sulphuric acid, and then immediately develop with +beta-naphthol. + +_Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 3 lb. Triamine black B, 15 lb. +Glauber's salt, in fifty gallons of water. Dye exactly as in the +preceding recipe. Wash and rinse very thoroughly after lifting, then +diazotise in a bath of about 250 gallons of cold water, to which add +separately 2-1/2 lb. sodium nitrite dissolved in five times its bulk of +water and 8 lb. hydrochloric acid diluted. Enter the damp cotton and +treat it for about half an hour. Lift, pass through a weak acid bath, +rinse, and develop immediately in a bath of about 250 gallons of cold +water, containing 1 lb. developer T, 1 lb. soda, previously dissolved +together in hot water. Enter the damp goods, work well for half an hour, +then lift, wash and dry. + +_Blue Black._--Dye with 4 lb. Diamine black B H, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with naphthylamine ether. + +_Dark Navy._--Dye with 3 lb. Diamine azo blue R R, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with beta-naphthol. + +_Light Chestnut Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Cotton brown N, 1 lb. diamine +fast yellow A, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. salt, then diazotise and develop +with phenylene diamine. + +_Dark Brown._--Dye with 5 lb. Diamine cutch, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with fast blue developer A D. + +_Black._--Dye with 4 lb. Diamine black B H, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, diazotise and develop with 2 lb. resorcine and 1 lb. +phenylene diamine. + +_Blue Black._--Dye with 4 lb. Diaminogene B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with beta-naphthol. + +_Black._--Dye with 4-1/2 lb. Diaminogene B, 1/2 oz. Diamine fast yellow +B, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with +3 lb. resorcine and 1 lb. phenylene diamine. + +_Light Blue._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Diaminogene blue B B, 1 lb. soda and +10 lb. Glauber's salt, then diazotised and develop with beta-naphthol. + +_Maroon._--Dye with 6 lb. Primuline and 20 lb. salt, diazotise and +develop with blue developer A N. + +_Olive Brown._--Dye with 5-1/2 lb. Diamine cutch, 3 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with fast blue developer A D. + +_Gold Brown._--Dye with 1 lb. Cotton brown N, 3/4 lb. Diamine bronze G, +2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with +phenylene diamine. + +_Walnut Brown._--Dye with 3 lb. Diamine brown M, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with beta-naphthol. + +_Brown._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brown M, 1 lb. Diamine fast yellow +B, 1 lb. cotton brown N, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then +diazotise and develop with phenylene diamine. + +_Dark Plum._--Dye with 3 lb. Diamine brown V, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with beta-naphthol. + +_Black Brown._--Dye with 3 lb. Diamine cutch, 3 lb. Diamine black B H, 8 +lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, then diazotised and develop with +phenylene diamine. + +_Blue Black._--Dye with 4-1/2 lb. Diamine black R O, 3 lb. soda and 20 +lb. Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with beta-naphthol. + +_Blue Black._--Dye with 4-1/2 lb. Diamine black R O, 3 lb. soda and 20 +lb. Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with naphthylamine ether. + +_Blue Black._--Dye with 5 lb. Diamine black B O, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with beta-naphthol. + +_Dark Blue._--Dye with 4 lb. Diamine black R O, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with blue developer A N. + +_Black._--Dye with 5 lb. Diamine black R O, 1 oz. Diamine bronze G, 3 +lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, then diazotise and develop with +phenylene diamine. + +The Diamine blacks are a range of very useful dye-stuffs, and by their +means alone and in conjunction with the various developers as seen in +the examples given above a range of useful shades of blue, navy blue, +and blacks of every tone can be obtained. It may also be added that many +of the direct dyes, although not diazotisable, are not altered by the +process and so may be used along with diazotisable dyes for the purpose +of shading them, and in that way a great range of shades can be +produced, particularly by combining Primuline with other dyes. + + +(4) DIRECT DYEING FOLLOWED BY FIXATION WITH COUPLERS. + +A further development in the application of the direct dyes has of late +years been made. This is a two-bath method. The cotton is dyed with +certain of the direct dyes: Primuline, Diamine jet blacks, Diazo blacks, +Toluylene orange and brown, Diazo brown, Diamine nitrazol dyes, Benzo +nitrol dyes, etc., in the usual way. Then a bath is prepared by +diazotising paranitroaniline, benzidine, metanitraniline, dianisidine, +etc., or by using the ready diazotised preparations which are now on the +market, Nitrazol C, Azophor red P N, Azophor blue P N, etc., and +immersing the dyed cotton in this bath. Combination takes place between +the dye on the fibre and the diazo compound in this bath, and a new +product is produced direct on the fibre, which being insoluble is very +resistant to washing and soaping. These "coupled" shades, as they will +probably come to be called, differ from those produced on the fibre by +the original dye-stuff, thus the Diamine jet blacks and some of the +Diazo blacks give, with paranitroaniline, browns of various shades. + +In this section also may be considered the method of dyeing cotton by +using the direct colours in the ordinary way, and then "topping," as it +is called, with a basic dye in a fresh bath. + +Practically in the "coupling process" of dyeing only diazotised +paranitroaniline is used as the coupler, although other amido bases of a +similar nature are available. + +When paranitroaniline is used as the source for the coupling bath it is +well to prepare a stock bath of diazotised paranitroaniline, which may +be done in the following manner:-- + +=Preparation of diazotised paranitroaniline.=--Take 1 lb. +paranitroaniline, mix with 1 gallon boiling water and 1 quart +hydrochloric acid, stir well, when the paranitroaniline will dissolve +the solution may if necessary be assisted by a little heat. Now add +1-1/2 gallons of cold water, and set aside to cool, when the +hydrochloride of paranitroaniline will separate out in the form of fine +crystals; when the mixture is quite cold (it cannot be too cold) there +is added 1/2 lb. sodium nitrite dissolved in 1/2 gallon cold water, stir +well for fifteen to twenty minutes, by the end of which time the +paranitroaniline will have become fully diazotised, cold water is added +to bring up the volume of the mixture to 10 gallons. This stock bath +well prepared and kept in a cool, dark place will keep good for three to +four weeks. This bath contains 1 lb. of paranitroaniline in 10 gallons, +and it is a good rule to allow 1/2 lb., or 5 gallons of this stock bath +to each pound of dye-stuff used in dyeing the ground colour to be +developed up. + +To prepare the coupling bath there is taken 5 gallons of the stock bath, +1 lb. sodium acetate with sufficient water for each 1 lb. of dye that +has been used. + +This bath is used cold, and the cotton is worked in it for half an hour, +then it is taken out, washed well and dried. + +Nitrazol C is a ready prepared diazotised paranitroaniline in a powder +form which keeps well if stored in a dry place. The method of using is +to take 8 lb. Nitrazol C, stir into a paste with water and then add this +paste to the coupling bath, together with 2 lb. soda and 3/4 lb. acetate +of soda. This bath is used cold and the dyed cotton is immersed in it +for half an hour, then taken out, well washed and dried. + +The quantity of Nitrazol C given will suffice for all shades dyed with +from 2 to 4 per cent, of dye-stuff, but when paler shades are dyed, +using less than say 1/2 per cent. of dye-stuff, about 4 lb. Nitrazol C, +with the soda and acetate of soda in proportionate quantities, may be +used. + +Azophor red P N is also a preparation of diazotised paranitroaniline in +the form of a dry powder which keeps well. + +To prepare the coupling bath there is taken 2 lb. of Azophor red P N, +which is dissolved in water and added to the bath along with 1 lb. +acetate of soda. The dyed goods are worked in the cold bath for half an +hour, then taken out, well washed and dried. + +The quantities given are sufficient for shades dyed with 2 to 4 per +cent. of dye-stuff; for weaker shades half the quantities may be taken. + +Benzo-nitrol developer is sold in the form of a yellow paste. To use it +take 5 lb., stir into a smooth paste with water, then add to the +coupling bath. There is then added 3 pints of hydrochloric acid, with +some stirring. Allow to stand for half an hour, add 1-1/2 lb. acetate of +soda and 6-1/2 oz. soda, when the bath is ready for use. The cotton is +entered and worked for half an hour, then lifted out, washed and dried. + +It may be mentioned that solutions of the three couplers just named may +be kept for some time without decomposition, but as soon as soda and +acetate of soda are added they begin to decompose and then cannot be +kept more than a few hours in a good condition. It is a good plan +therefore not to add the acetate of soda until the bath is to be used. + +An excess of coupler in the bath does no harm, but a deficiency may lead +to poor and weak shades being developed. + +The following recipes show the dyes which may be applied by this method +and give some idea of the colours that can be got. Only the dye-stuffs +are given. Any of the above couplers can be used with them as may be +most convenient. + +_Black._--Dye with 5 lb. Benzo-nitrol black B, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt. + +_Olive Green._--Dye with 6 lb. Primuline, 3 lb. Titan ingrain blue and +20 lb. salt. + +_Black._--Dye with 4 lb. Dianil black C R, 2 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt. + +_Dark Blue._--Dye with 2 lb. Dianil dark blue R, 1 lb. Dianil dark blue +3 R, 2 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt. + +_Gold Brown._--Dye with 1 lb. Primuline, 8 oz. Dianil brown R and 20 lb. +salt. + +_Chestnut._--Dye with 3 lb. Primuline, 3/4 lb. Dianil brown G O, 1 lb. +Dianil brown E, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt. + +_Dark Brown._--Dye with 1 lb. Dianil brown 3 G O, 3 lb. Dianil brown D, +1 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt. + +_Dark Green._--Dye with 4 lb. Primuline, 1-1/2 lb. Dianil black C R, 1 +lb. soda and 20 lb. salt. + +_Walnut Brown._--Dye with 1 lb. Dianil brown 3 G O, 8 oz. Dianil brown +R, 3 lb. Dianil brown B D, 1 lb. soda, and 20 lb. salt. + +_Light Green._--Dye with 3 lb. Primuline, 8 oz. Dianil blue B, 5 oz. +Dianil dark blue R, 1 lb. soda, and 20 lb. salt. + +_Orange Yellow._--Dye with 3-1/4 lb. Primuline, 1 lb. Oxydianil yellow, +and 25 lb. salt. + +_Olive._--Dye with 3-1/2 lb. Primuline, 8 oz. Dianil brown 3 G O, 8 oz. +Dianil blue B, 4 oz. Dianil dark blue R, 1 lb. soda, and 25 lb. salt. + +_Bright Yellow._--Dye with 2 lb. Primuline, and 20 lb. salt. + +_Gold Yellow._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, 1 lb. soda, and 20 +lb. salt. + +_Bright Walnut._--Dye with 1/2 lb. Diamine nitrazol brown B, 1 lb. +Oxydiamine orange R, 1 lb. soda, and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Gold Brown._--Dye with 1/2 lb. Diamine nitrazol brown G, 1 lb. +Primuline, and 20 lb. salt. + +_Green._--Dye with 2 lb. Primuline, 1 lb. Diamine nitrazol black B, 1 +lb. soda and 20 lb. salt. + +_Pale Chestnut._--Dye with 1 lb. Primuline, 1/2 lb. Oxydiamine orange R +and 20 lb. salt. + +_Moss Brown,_--Dye with 2 lb. Primuline, 1 lb. diamine jet black O O and +20 lb. salt. + +_Chocolate._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brown V, 2 lb. Diamine nitrazol +brown R D, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Olive Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine nitrazol brown G, 1 lb. Diamine +nitrazol black B, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Russian Green._--Dye with 2 lb. Diaminogene extra, 2 lb. soda and 20 +lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Bronze Green._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine grey G, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt. + +_Terra-cotta Bed._--Dye with 2 lb. Oxydiamine orange R, 1 lb. soda and +20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Terra-cotta Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine nitrazol brown R D, 1 lb. +soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Olive Green._--Dye with 1 lb. Primuline, 2 lb. Diamine bronze G, 1 lb. +soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Dark Green._--Dye with 1 lb. Primuline, 2 lb. Diamine nitrazol black B, +2 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt. + +_Sage Brown._--Dye with 1 lb. Primuline, 2 lb. Diamine jet black O O, 1 +lb. soda and 20 lb. salt. + +_Black Brown._--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine brown V, 2 lb. Diamine nitrazol +black B, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Dark Walnut._--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine brown V, 2 lb. Oxydiamine orange +R, 2 lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Pale Sage._--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine brown V, 2 lb. Primuline, 1 lb. +soda and 20 lb. salt. + +_Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 3 lb. Diamine jet black O O, 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soda. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 3/4 lb. Benzo nitrol brown G, 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soda. Dye for one hour at the boil. + +_Dark Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 2 lb. Benzo nitrol dark brown +N, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soda. Dye for one hour at the boil. + +_Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 4 lb. Direct fast brown B, 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soda. Dye for one hour at the boil. + +_Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. 11 oz. Diamine jet black O O, +2 lb. Cotton brown N, 1 lb. 5 oz. Diamine brown V, 20 lb. Glauber's +salt, 2 lb. soda. Dye at the boil for one hour. + +_Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 2 lb. Diamine bronze G, 6-1/2 oz. +Cotton brown N, 9-3/4 oz. Diamine fast yellow A, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, +2 lb. soda. + +_Black._--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Pluto black B, 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, 2 lb. soda. Dye for one hour at the boil. + +Solidogen A is a new coupler that has latterly been applied. It is a +syrupy liquid, and the coupling bath is made by taking from 4 lb. to 6 +lb. of the Solidogen A, and 1 lb. to 2 lb. of hydrochloric acid, in +place of which 3 lb. to 5 lb. alum may be used. This bath is used at the +boil, the goods being treated for half an hour, then well rinsed and +dried. It increases the fastness of the colours to washing and soaping. + +The following recipes show its application:-- + +_Bright Bed._--Dye with 3 lb. Dianil red 4 B, 2 lb. soap, 3 lb. soda and +15 lb. Glauber's salt, then fix with Solidogen A. + +_Scarlet._--Dye with 3 lb. Dianil scarlet G, 2 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt; +fix with Solidogen A. + +_Plum._--Dye with 3 lb. Dianil claret B, 5 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's +salt, then fix with Solidogen A. + +=Topping with Basic Dyes.=--The shades dyed with the direct dyes may be +materially brightened and new shades produced by topping with any of the +basic dyes, which are applied in a fresh warm bath. A great variety of +effects may be thus got of which the following recipes give a few +examples:-- + +_Green._--Dye with 1 lb. Titan yellow G and 20 lb. salt; top with 1/2 +lb. Brilliant green. + +_Blue._--Dye with 1-3/4 lb. Diamine azo blue R, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, then top with 2 oz. New Methylene blue N. + +_Bright Blue._--Dye with 3/4 lb. Diamine brilliant blue G, 1 lb. soda +and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; top with 2 oz. New Methylene blue 3 R. + +_Blue._--Dye with 1 lb. Diamine sky blue, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt, and top with 4 oz. Brilliant green. + +_Bose Lilac._--Dye with 1-1/2 oz. Diamine violet N, 1 lb. soda and 10 +lb. Glauber's salt, then top with 2 oz. Tannin heliotrope. + +_Green._--Dye at the boil for one hour with 2 lb. Benzo green G and 10 +lb. Glauber's salt, then top in a fresh bath with 1/2 lb. Turquoise blue +B B. + +_Violet._--Dye with 5 oz. Diamine violet N, 2 oz. Diamine brilliant blue +G, 1 lb. soda and 10 lb. salt, and top with 1 oz. Methyl violet 2 B. + +_Plum._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine violet B, 5 oz. Diamine red 10 B, +2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then top with 1-1/2 oz. Methyl +violet R. + +_Bright Green._--Dye with 1-1/4 lb. Diamine green G, 1-1/4 lb. +Oxydiamine yellow G G, 2 lb. soda and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then top +with 2 oz. Brilliant green. + +_Blue._--Dye with 2 lb. Benzo azurine G, 3 oz. Brilliant azurine B, 1 +lb. soda and 20 lb. Glauber's salt, topping with 6 oz. Turquoise blue G +and 3 oz. New Victoria blue B. + +_Dark Lilac._--Dye with 3-3/4 lb. Heliotrope B B, 1 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, then top with 1 lb. Methyl violet R, and 1/2 lb. Methyl +violet 3 R. + +_Scarlet._--Dye with 3 lb. Brilliant Congo R, 3 lb. soda and 20 lb. +Glauber's salt, then top with 8 oz. Safranine. + +_Bright Green._--Dye with 3 lb. Chrysamine G, 2 lb. soap and 10 lb. +phosphate of soda, topping with 3/4 lb. Malachite green. + +_Bright Violet._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Chicago blue 6 B, 1 lb. soda and 20 +lb. Glauber's salt, topping with 10 oz. Methyl violet B. + +_Dark Green._--Dye with 2 lb. Columbia green, 3 lb. soda and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt, topping with 10 oz. Malachite green. + +_Claret._--Prepare a dye-bath with 3/4 oz. Diamine black R O, 2-1/2 lb. +Benzo purpurine 6 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one +hour, then enter in a fresh cold bath of 1/2 lb. Safranine G. Work for +twenty minutes, lift, wash and dry. + +_Seal Brown._--Make up a dye-bath with 2 lb. Benzo azurine G, 20 lb. +Glauber's salt. Enter yarn at 180 deg. F., dye at the boil for one hour, +lift, wring, and enter into a fresh bath of 1-1/2 lb. Bismarck brown. +Work for one hour at about 180 deg. F., lift, rinse well and dry. + + +(6) DYEING ON TANNIC MORDANT. + +The oldest group of coal-tar dyes are the basic dyes, of which Magenta, +Brilliant green, Chrysoidine, Bismarck brown, Auramine are typical +representatives. For a long time these dyes were only used for dyeing +wool and silk; for cotton, linen, and some other vegetable fibres they +have little or no affinity, and hence cannot dye them direct. However, +it was found out that if the cotton be prepared or mordanted (as it is +called) with tannic acid or with any substance containing that compound +they could be used for dyeing cotton. + +The mordant used, tannic acid, has the property of combining with the +dyes of this group to form insoluble coloured tannates. Now tannic acid +has a certain amount of affinity for cotton, if the latter be immersed +in solution of tannic acid or any material containing it some of the +latter is taken up and more or less fixed by the cotton fibre. Tannic +acid is a vegetable product found in a large number of plants, and plant +products, such as sumac, myrabolams, divi-divi, galls, oak bark, +gambier, cutch, algarobilla, valonia, etc., which are commonly known as +tannins, or tannin matters, on account of their use in the conversion of +animal skins or hides into leather, which is done in the tanning +industry. + +By itself the tannin-colour lake, which may be formed on the cotton +fibre by immersion first in a bath of tannin and then in a dye-bath, is +not fast to washing and soaping, but by taking advantage of the fact +with such metals as tin, iron, antimony, etc., it combines to form +insoluble tannates; the tannic acid can be fixed on the cotton by +immersion in a bath containing such fixing salts as tartar emetic, tin +crystals, copperas, antimony fluoride, and antimony oxalate. The dyeing +of cotton with the basic colours therefore resolves itself into three +operations:-- + +(1) Tanning with tannic acid or some tanning matters. +(2) Fixation with tartar emetic or other fixing agent. +(3) Dyeing with the required colour or mixture of colours. + +(1) =The Tanning Operation.=--The practice of tanning or mordanting +cotton with tannin is variously carried on by dyers. Some steep the +cotton in the tannin bath over night, others immerse it from two to +three hours in a lukewarm bath, while some enter it in a boiling bath, +which is then allowed to cool down and the cotton is lifted out. The +last is perhaps the quickest method, and experiments have shown that it +is as good as any other method, if the quantity of tannic acid taken up +be regarded as the criterion of success. + +In the natural products which have just been enumerated, the tannic acid +is accompanied by some colouring matter, which is also absorbed by the +cotton; in some (sumac and galls) this colour is present in but small +quantities; in others (divi-divi, myrabolams, algarobilla), there is a +large quantity; therefore cotton treated with these comes out more or +less coloured. Now it is obvious that such forms of tannin cannot be +used when light tints are to be dyed, for such the acid itself must be +used, for medium shades sumac or galls may be used; while when dark +shades--browns, maroons, dark greens, navy blues, etc., are to be dyed, +then such tannin matters as divi-divi or myrabolams may be conveniently +and economically adopted. The quantity used varies according to +circumstances; the character of the shades that are to be dyed, the +dye-stuff used, the quality and character of the tannin matter used. For +pale shades about 1 per cent. of tannic acid may be used, deep shades +require from 3 to 4 per cent. Of tannin matters from 5 per cent. may be +used for pale shades, from 20 to 25 per cent. for deep shades. The +tannin baths are not exhausted, and may be kept standing, adding for +each succeeding lot of cotton from 1/2 to 3/4 of the above quantities of +tannin matters. Of course sooner or later the baths become unusable from +various causes, and then they may be thrown away; but old tannin baths +often work better than the new ones. + +(2) =The Fixing Bath.=--Following on the tannin bath comes the fixing +bath to fix the tannin on the cotton in the form of insoluble metallic +tannates. A variety of metallic salts may be used for this purpose, +those of antimony, tin, iron, lead, etc., the substances most commonly +used being tartar emetic, antimony fluoride, oxalate of antimony, tin +crystals and copperas. + +Beyond forming the insoluble tannate of antimony or tin, as the case may +be, the salts of antimony and tin have no further effect on the tanned +cotton, and they may be used to fix the tannin for all tints or shades, +from very pale to very deep. Of all these salts tartar emetic has been +found to be the best, probably because it is the least acid in its +reactions, and therefore there is no tendency to remove any tannin from +the fibre, as is the case with the other salts. Tin salt is little used +for this purpose, because of its acidity, which prevents it from fixing +the tannin as completely as is the case with tartar emetic. + +With copperas or iron liquor the question comes up not only of the mere +fixation of the tannin, but also the fact that iron forms with tannin +grey to black compounds, hence cotton which has been tanned and then +immersed in a bath of copperas becomes coloured grey to black, according +to the quantity of the tannin matter used. The property is useful when +dark shades of maroons, clarets, greens, browns, blues, etc., are to be +dyed, and is frequently employed. + +(3) =Dyeing.=--After the tannin and fixing operations comes the dyeing. +This is not by any means a difficult operation. It is best carried out +by preparing a cold bath, entering the prepared or mordanted cotton in +this and heating slowly up. It is not necessary to raise to the boil nor +to maintain the dye-bath at that heat, a temperature of 180 deg. F. being +quite sufficient in dyeing with the basic colours, and the operation +should last only until the colouring matter is extracted from the +dye-bath. Working in this way, level uniform shades can be got. + +One source of trouble in the dyeing of basic dyes, more especially with +magentas, violets and greens, lies in their slight solubility and great +strength. In preparing solutions of such dyes it is best to dissolve the +dye-stuff by pouring boiling water over it, and stirring well until all +appears to be dissolved. + +This solution should be strained through a fine cloth, as any +undissolved specks will be sure to fix themselves on the cloth and lead +to dark spots and stains, as, owing to the weak solubility of the dye, +and this being also fixed as insoluble tannate by the tannic acid on the +fibre, there is no tendency for the dye to diffuse itself over the +cloth, as occasionally happens in other methods of dyeing. No advantage +is gained by adding to the dye-bath such substances as common salt or +Glauber's salt. + +Some few of the dyes, _e.g._, Soluble blue, Victoria blue, which will +dye on a tannic mordant, are sulphonated compounds of the colour base. +These can be dyed in medium or light shades on to unmordanted cotton +from a bath containing alum, and in the ordinary method of dyeing the +addition of alum is beneficial, as tending to result in the production +of deep shades. These are somewhat faster to washing and soaping, which +is owing to the dye-stuff combining with the alumina in the alum to form +an insoluble colour lake of the sulphuric acid groups it contains. + +Many recipes can be given for the dyeing of basic dyes on cotton; for +the range of tints and shades of all colours that can be produced by +their means is truly great. Typical recipes will be given showing what +basic dyes are available and how they can be combined together. The +dyer, however, who knows how to produce shades by combining one +dye-stuff with another is able to get many more shades than space will +permit to be given here. + +_Sky Blue._--Mordant with 1 lb. tannic acid and 1/2 lb. tartar emetic, +then dye with 2-1/2 oz. Victoria blue B, and 1/2 oz. Turquoise blue G. + +_Bright Blue._--Mordant with 2 lb. tannic acid and 1-1/2 lb. tartar +emetic, then dye with 1-1/2 lb. New Victoria blue B, and 3/4 lb. +Turquoise blue G. + +_Pale Green._--Mordant with 1-1/2 lb. tannic acid and 1/4 lb. tartar +emetic, then dye with 1/4 oz. Brilliant green and 1/2 oz. Auramine I I. + +_Bright Green._--Mordant with 1 lb. tannic acid and 1 lb. tartar emetic, +then dye with 6 oz. Brilliant green and 8 oz. Auramine I I. + +_Turquoise Blue._--Mordant with 2 lb. tannic acid and 1-1/2 lb. tartar +emetic; dye with 1 lb. Turquoise blue G. + +_Crimson._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2 lb. tartar emetic, then +dye with 1-1/4 lb. Brilliant rhoduline red B and 5 oz. Auramine I I. + +_Bright Violet._--Mordant with 2 lb. tannic acid and 1 lb. tartar +emetic; dye with 1-1/4 lb. Rhoduline violet and 3 oz. Methyl violet B. + +_Rose Lilac._--Mordant with 2 lb. tannic acid and 1 lb. tartar emetic; +dye with 3/4 lb. Rhoduline violet. + +_Yellow._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2-1/2 lb. tartar emetic; +dye with 2 lb. Auramine I I. + +_Orange._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2-1/4 lb. tartar emetic; +dye with 2 lb. Chrysoidine. + +_Green._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2-1/2 lb. tartar emetic, +then dye with 2 lb. Brilliant green. + +_Red Violet._--Mordant with 1-1/2 lb. tannic acid and 1-1/4 lb. tartar +emetic, then dye with 8 oz. Methyl violet 4 R. + +The same method may be followed with all the brands of Methyl, Paris and +Hoffmann violets, and so a range of shades from a purple to a pure +violet can be dyed. The 4 R to R brands of these violets dye reddish +shades, the redness decreasing according to the mark, the B to 6 B +brands dye bluish shades, the blueness increasing till the 6 B brand +dyes a very blue shade of violet. + +_Bright Sea-Green._--Mordant with 1 lb. tannic acid and 1/2 lb. tartar +emetic, then dye with 2 oz. Turquoise blue G and 1/4 oz. New Victoria +blue B. With these two blues a very great variety of tints and shades of +blue can be dyed. + +_Sea Green._--Mordant with 1 lb. tannic acid and 3/4 lb. tartar emetic, +and dye with 2 oz. Malachite green. + +_Dark Green._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2 lb. tartar emetic, +then dye with 1-1/4 lb. Malachite green and 3/4 oz. Auramine I I. + +By combination of Brilliant green or Malachite green (which are the +principal basic greens) with Auramine in various proportions a great +range of greens of all tints and shades, from pale to deep and from very +yellow to very green tints, can be dyed. + +_Scarlet._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2 lb. tartar emetic, then +dye with 1-1/2 lb. Rhodamine 6 G and 1/4 lb. Auramine I I. + +_Pink._--Mordant with 1 lb. tannic acid and 3/4 lb. tartar emetic, and +dye with 1/4 lb. Rhodamine G. + +_Pink._--Mordant with 1 lb. tannic acid and 3/4 lb. tartar emetic, and +dye with 1/2 lb. Irisamine G. + +_Slate Blue._--Mordant with 1-1/2 lb. tannic acid and 1 lb. tartar +emetic, then dye with 3/4 lb. Victoria blue B and 2 oz. Malachite green. + +_Indigo Blue._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2-1/2 lb. tartar +emetic, then dye with 1 lb. Methylene blue 2 B and 1/2 lb. Malachite +green. + +_Dark Scarlet._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2-1/2 lb. tartar +emetic, then dye with 1 lb. Safranine prima and 1/2 lb. Auramine I I. + +_Grey._--Mordant with 1 lb. tannic acid and 1/2 lb. tartar emetic, then +dye with 1/2 lb. New Methylene grey B. + +_Bluish Rose._--Mordant with 2 lb. tannic acid and 1 lb. tartar emetic, +then dye with 1 lb. Rhodamine B. + +_Maroon._--Mordant with 4 lb. tannic acid and 2 lb. tartar emetic, and +dye with 2 lb. Magenta and 1/2 lb. Auramine. + +_Dark Green._--Mordant with 5 lb. tannic acid and 2-1/2 lb. tartar +emetic, and dye with 1/2 lb. Methylene blue B B, 1/2 lb. Methyl violet 2 +B and 2-1/2 lb. Auramine I I. + +_Orange._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2 lb. tartar emetic, and +dye with 1 lb. New Phosphine G. + +_Lilac Grey._--Mordant with 1 lb. tannic acid and 1-1/2 lb. tartar +emetic, and dye with 1/4 lb. Methylene grey B F. + +_Gold Brown._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 1-1/2 lb. tartar +emetic, and dye with 3/4 lb. Thioflavine T and 3/4 lb. Bismarck brown. + +_Orange._--Mordant with 2 lb. tannic acid and 1 lb. tartar emetic, and +dye with 1 lb. Auramine and 1/4 lb. Safranine. + +_Dark Blue._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2 lb. tartar emetic, +and dye with 2-1/4 lb. New Methylene blue R and 3/4 lb. Naphtindone B B. + +_Olive Green._--Mordant with 5 lb. sumac extract and 2 lb. copperas, and +dye with 1 lb. Auramine. + +_Russian Green._--Mordant with 5 lb. sumac extract and 2 lb. copperas, +and dye with 2 lb. Malachite green. + +_Scarlet._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2 lb. tartar emetic, and +dye with 1-1/2 lb. Thioflavine T and 1/2 lb. Irisamine G. With these two +dye-stuffs it is possible to produce a variety of useful shades from a +pure greenish yellow, with Thioflavine T alone, to a bright bluish +pink, with the Irisamine alone, through orange, scarlet, etc., with +combinations of the two dye-stuffs. + +_Dark Grey._--Mordant with 5 lb. sumac extract and 3 lb. copperas, then +dye with 1 lb. New Methylene grey G. + +_Blue Black._--Mordant with 8 lb. sumac extract and 4 lb. copperas, or +better with iron liquor, then dye with 2 lb. Indamine blue N. + +_Olive Brown._--Mordant with 5 lb. sumac extract and 3 lb. copperas, and +dye with 1-1/2 lb. New Phosphine G. + +_Indigo Blue._--Mordant with 1-1/2 lb. tannic acid and 1 lb. tartar +emetic; dye with 1/2 lb. New Methylene blue N. + +_Sky Blue._--Mordant with 1/2 lb. tannic acid and 3/4 lb. tartar emetic; +dye with 1-1/2 oz. New Methylene blue G G. + +_Dark Violet._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2 lb. tartar emetic, +then dye with 4 lb. Fast neutral violet B. + +_Bright Yellow._--Mordant with 2 lb. tannic acid and 1 lb. tartar +emetic, and dye with 2 lb. Thioflavine T. + +_Primrose Yellow._--Mordant with 1 lb. tannic acid and 1/4 lb. tartar +emetic, and dye with 2 oz. Thioflavine T. + +_Navy Blue._--Mordant with 5 lb. sumac extract and 3 lb. copperas, then +dye with 2 lb. New Methylene blue R. + +_Violet._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2 lb. tartar emetic, and +dye with 2 lb. New Methylene blue 3 R. + +_Dark Blue._--Mordant with 5 lb. sumac extract and 3 lb copperas, and +dye with 2 lb. New Methylene blue N X. + +_Blue Black._--Mordant with 8 lb. sumac extract and iron liquor, then +dye with 3 lb. Metaphenylene blue B. + +_Emerald Tint._--Mordant the cotton in the usual way with 1 lb. tannic +acid and 1 lb. tartar emetic; dye to shade at 180 deg. F. in a bath +containing 14 oz. Auramine G, 2 oz. Brilliant green, then lift, wash and +dry. + +_Orange._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2 lb. tartar emetic, then +dye with 4 lb. Tannin orange R. + +_Scarlet._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2 lb. tartar emetic, and +dye with 2 lb. Tannin orange R and 1 lb. Safranine S. + +_Dark Scarlet._--Mordant with 3 lb. tannic acid and 2 lb. tartar emetic, +and dye with 1/2 lb. Tannin orange R and 2 lb. Safranine S. + +The Janus colours are a series of dyes of a basic nature which can be +applied somewhat differently to the ordinary basic dyes, although the +ordinary method can be followed. With these Janus dyes a two-bath +process is followed. A dye-bath is prepared containing the dye-stuff, +sulphuric acid and common salt, and this is used at the boil from half +to three-quarters of an hour, and the goods are allowed to remain in +another three-quarters of an hour while the bath cools down. Next the +dyed goods are run in a fixing bath of sulphuric acid, tannic acid and +tartar emetic, this is used at the boil from half to one hour, after +which the dyed goods are taken out and washed. If necessary the goods +may be now topped with basic colours in order to produce any desired +shade. The following recipes will show how the Janus dyes may be used:-- + +_Blue._--Dye with 9 oz. sulphuric acid, 8 oz. Janus blue G, and 5 lb. +common salt; fix with 3/4 lb. sulphuric acid, 8 oz. tannic acid and 4 +oz. tartar emetic. + +_Turquoise Blue._--Dye with 9 oz. sulphuric acid, 1 lb. Janus green B +and 10 lb. salt, fixing with 3/4 lb. sulphuric acid, 1 lb. tannin and +1/2 lb. tartar emetic. + +_Dark Blue._--Dye with 9 oz. sulphuric acid, 2-1/2 lb. Janus blue R and +15 lb. common salt; fix with 3/4 lb. sulphuric acid, 2-1/2 lb. tannic +acid and 1-1/4 lb. tartar emetic. + +_Buff._--Dye with 9 oz. sulphuric acid, 2 oz. Janus yellow R and 3 lb. +salt; fix with 3/4 lb. sulphuric acid, 3 oz. tannic acid and 3 lb. +tartar emetic. + +_Crimson._--Dye with 9 oz. sulphuric acid, 2-1/2 lb. Janus red B and 15 +lb. salt, fixing with 3/4 lb. sulphuric acid, 2-1/2 lb. tannic acid and +1-1/4 lb. tartar emetic. + +_Red Violet._--Dye with 9 oz. sulphuric acid, 1 lb. Janus claret red B +and 10 lb. salt; fix with 12 oz. sulphuric acid, 1 lb. tannic acid and +1/2 lb. tartar emetic. + +_Orange._--Dye with 9 oz. sulphuric acid, 1 lb. Janus yellow R and 10 +lb. salt; fix with 12 oz. sulphuric acid, 1 lb. tannic acid and 1/2 lb. +tartar emetic. + +_Dark Violet._--Dye with 9 oz. sulphuric acid, 2 lb. Janus grey B and 15 +lb. salt; fix with 12 oz. sulphuric acid, 2-1/2 lb. tannic acid and +1-1/4 lb. tartar emetic. + +_Chocolate Brown._--Dye with 9 oz. sulphuric acid, 3-1/2 lb. Janus brown +B and 15 lb. salt, fixing with 2 oz. sulphuric acid, 2-1/2 lb. tannic +acid and 1 lb. tartar emetic. + + +(6) DYEING ON METALLIC MORDANTS. + +There are a number of dye-stuffs or colouring matters like alizarine, +logwood, fustic, barwood, cutch, resorcine green, etc., which have no +affinity for the cotton fibre, and of themselves will not dye it. They +have the property of combining with metallic oxides such as those of +iron, chromium, aluminium, tin, lead, calcium, etc., to form coloured +bodies which are more or less insoluble in water. These coloured bodies +are called "colour lakes," and the metallic compounds used in connection +with their production "mordants," hence often the dye-stuffs applied by +this method are termed "mordant dyes". In the case of the natural +dye-stuffs--logwood, fustic, Persian berries, Brazil wood, camwood, +cochineal, quercitron, cutch, etc.--which belong to this group of +"mordant dyes," the whole of the material does not enter into the +operation, but only a certain constituent contained therein, which is +commonly soluble in boiling water, and extracted out by boiling. This +constituent is called the "colouring principle" of the dye-stuff or +wood, and naturally varies with each. It is not intended here to deal +in detail with these colouring principles. The methods of applying and +the colours which can be got from these dyes varies very much. Roughly, +the modes of application fall under three heads: (1) the particular +metallic mordant is first fixed on the fibre by any suitable method, and +then the fibre is dyed; (2) the dye-stuff is first applied to the fibre, +and then the colour is fixed and developed by treatment with the +mordant; and (3) the dye-stuff and the mordant are applied at the same +time. This last method is not much used. In the following sections many +examples of these methods will be given. + +The dyes fixed with metallic mordant vary in their composition and +properties. There is first the group of eosine dyes, which are acid +derivatives of a colour-base, and, in virtue of being so, will combine +with the metallic oxides. The colour of these colour lakes is quite +independent of what oxide is used, depending only on that of the +particular eosine dye employed. Then there are some members of the azo +dyes, particularly the croceine scarlets, which can also be dyed on the +cotton by the aid of tin, lead or alum mordants. Here, again, the +mordant has no influence on the colour, but only fixes it on the cotton. + +The most important class of dye-stuffs which are dyed on to cotton with +a metallic mordant is that to which the term "mordant dyes" is now +given. This includes such dyes as logwood, fustic, madder, alizarine, +and all the dyes derived from anthracene. Many of these are not really +dyes, that is, they will not of themselves produce or develop a colour +on to any fibre when used alone; it is only when they combine with the +mordant oxide which is used, and then the colour varies with the +mordant. Thus, for instance, logwood with iron produces a bluish black; +with chrome, a blue; with alumina, a reddish blue. Alizarine with iron +produces a dark violet; with alumina, a scarlet; with chrome, a red; +with tin, a bright scarlet. Fustic gives with tin and alumina, bright +yellows; with chrome, a dark yellow; with iron, an olive, and so on with +other members of this group, of which more will be said later on. + + +_Dyeing with Eosines._ + +At one time a fairly large quantity of cotton was dyed with the eosines, +owing to the brightness of the shades given by them; but the +introduction of such direct dyes as the Erikas, Ceranines, etc., has +thrown the eosines out of use. + +The method adopted for the production of eosine pinks and scarlets on +cotton involves three operations: (1) impregnating the cloth with sodium +stannate; (2) fixing oxide of tin by a bath of weak sulphuric acid; and +(3) dyeing with the eosine. + +=(1) Preparing with Sodium Stannate.=--A bath of 8 deg. Tw. is prepared, and +the cotton is allowed to steep in this bath until it becomes thoroughly +impregnated, after which it is taken out and wrung. + +=(2) Fixing the Tin Oxide.=--A bath of sulphuric acid of 2 deg. to 4 deg. Tw. is +prepared, and the cotton is sent through it, after which it is washed +well with water, when it is ready for dyeing. + +Stannate of soda is easily decomposed by acids; even the carbonic acid +present in the air will bring about this change. The tin contained in +the stannate is deposited on the cotton in the form of stannic oxide, +or, more strictly, stannic acid. As this is somewhat soluble in acids, +it is important that the sulphuric acid bath be not too strong, or there +will be a tendency for the tin oxide to be dissolved off the cotton, and +then but weak shades will be obtained in the final operation of dyeing. +Further, owing to the decomposition of the stannate by exposure to the +air, it is important that the substance should be used while fresh, and +that only fresh baths should be used. + +=(3) Dyeing with Eosine Colours.=--After the treatment with stannate of +soda and sulphuric acid the prepared cotton is ready for dyeing. This +process is carried out by preparing a cold bath with the required +dye-stuff, entering the cotton therein, and then slowly raising to about +180 deg. F., and maintaining at that heat until the desired shade is +obtained. It is not needful to raise to the boil and work at that heat. +No better results are obtained, while there is even a tendency for +colours to be produced that rub badly, which is due to the too rapid +formation of the colour lake; and it is worthy of note that when a +colour lake is rapidly formed on the fibre in dyeing it is apt to be but +loosely fixed, and the colour is then loose to both washing and rubbing. + + * * * * * + +_Dyeing with Acid and Azo Dyes._ + +In dyeing with this class of colours stannate of soda, acetate of lead +or alum may be used as mordants. The stannate of soda is employed in the +same manner as when the eosines are used, and, therefore, does not +require to be further dealt with. + +Acetate of lead is used in a similar way. The cotton is first steeped in +a bath of acetate of lead of about 10 deg. Tw. strong, used cold, and from +half an hour to an hour is allowed for the cotton to be thoroughly +impregnated with the lead solution, it is then wrung and passed a second +time into a bath of soda, when lead oxide or lead carbonate is deposited +on the cotton. After this treatment the cotton is ready for dyeing with +any kind of acid, azo and even eosine dyes, and this is done in the same +manner as is used in dyeing the eosines on a stannate mordant. The +shades obtained on a lead mordant cannot be considered as fast; they +bleed on washing and rub off badly. + +When alum is used as the mordant it may be employed in the same way as +acetate of lead, but as a rule it is added to the dye-bath direct, and +the dyeing is done at the boil. This latter method gives equally good +results, and is more simple. + +The eosines and erythrosines, water blues, soluble blues, croceine +scarlets, cloth scarlets, and a few other dyes of the azo and acid +series are used according to this method. The results are by no means +first class, deep shades cannot be obtained, and they are not fast to +washing, soaping and rubbing. + +The methods of employing the much more important group of colouring +matters known as the mordant dyes, which comprise such well-known +products as logwood, fustic and alizarine, require more attention. With +these, alumina, iron, and chromium mordants are used as chief mordants, +either alone or in combination with one another, and with other bodies. +The principal point is to obtain a good deposit of the mordant on the +cotton fibre, and this is by no means easy. + +There are several methods by the use of which a deposit is formed of the +mordant, either in the form of metallic oxide (or, perhaps, hydroxide) +or of a basic salt. In some cases the cotton is passed through alternate +baths containing, on one hand, the mordanting salt, _e.g._, alum, +copperas, etc., and, on the other, a fixing agent, such as soda or +phosphate of soda. Or a mordanting salt may be used, containing some +volatile acid that on being subjected to a subsequent steaming is +decomposed. Both these methods will be briefly discussed. + + * * * * * + +_Methods of Mordanting._ + +The cotton is first steeped in a bath containing Turkey-red oil, and is +then dried. By this means there is formed on the fibre a deposit of +fatty acid, which is of great value in the subsequent dyeing operations +to produce bright and fast shades. After the oiling comes a bath of alum +or alumina sulphate, either used as bought, or made basic by the +addition of soda. The result is to bring about on the fibre a +combination of the fatty acid with the alumina. Following on the alum +bath comes a bath containing soda or phosphate of soda, which brings +about a better fixation of the alumina. + +These operations may be repeated several times, especially when a full +shade having a good degree of fastness is desired, as, for instance, +Turkey-reds from Alizarine. This method of mordanting is subject to +considerable variations as regards the order in which the various +operations are carried out, the strength of the baths, and their +composition. A great deal depends upon the ultimate result desired to be +obtained, and the price to be paid for the work. + +Iron is much easier to fix on cotton than is either alumina or chrome. +It is usually sufficient to pass the cotton through a bath of either +copperas or iron liquor, hang up to dry or age, and then pass into a +bath of lime, soda or even phosphate of soda. The other mordants require +two passages to ensure proper deposition of the mordant on the fibre. + +Following on the mordanting operations comes the dyeing, which is +carried out in the following manner. The bath is made cold with the +required amount of dye-stuff and not too small a quantity of water, the +cotton is immersed and worked for a short time to ensure impregnation, +then the temperature is slowly raised to the boil. This operation should +be carefully carried out, inasmuch as time is an important element in +the dyeing with mordant colours; the colouring principle contained in +the dye-stuff must enter into a chemical combination with the mordant +that has been fixed on the fibre. Heat greatly assists this being +brought about, but if the operation is carried on too quickly, then +there is a tendency for uneven shades to be formed. This can only be +remedied by keeping the temperature low until the dye-stuff has been +fairly well united with the mordant, and then maintaining the heat at +the boil to ensure complete formation of the colouring lake on the +fibre, and therefore the production of fast colours. + +It has been noticed in the dyeing of alizarines on both cotton and wool +that when, owing to a variety of circumstances, local overheating of the +bath happens to take place dark strains or streaks are sure to be +formed. To avoid these care should be taken that no such local heating +can occur. + +It only remains to add that it is possible to dye a great range of +shades by this method, reds with alizarine and alumina; blacks with +logwood and iron; greens from logwood, fustic, or Persian berries, with +chrome and iron; blues from alizarine blues; greens from Coeruleine or +Dinitrosoresorcine, etc. + +Another method of mordanting cotton for the mordant group of dye-stuffs +is that in which the cotton is impregnated with a salt of the mordant +oxide derived from a volatile acid such as acetic acid, and then +subjected to heat or steaming. This method is largely taken advantage of +by calico printers for grounds, and dyers might make use of it to a much +larger extent than they do. + +There are used in this process the acetates of iron, chromium and +aluminium, and bisulphites of the same metals and a few other compounds. +Baths of these are prepared, and the cotton is impregnated by steeping +in the usual way; then it is gently wrung out and aged, that is, hung up +in a warm room overnight. During this time the mordant penetrates more +thoroughly into the substance of the fabric, while the acid, being more +or less volatile, passes off--probably not entirely, but at any rate +some of the metal is left in the condition of oxide and the bulk of it +as a basic salt. Instead of ageing the cotton may be subjected to a +process of steaming with the same results. After this the cotton is +ready for dyeing, which is done by the method described in the last +section. + +There is still another method to be noticed here, that is, one in which +a bath is prepared containing both the mordant and the dye-stuff. In +this case the character of the mordant must be such that, under the +conditions that prevail, it will not form a colour lake with the +dye-stuff. Such substances are the bisulphites, if used with the +bisulphite compounds of the dye-stuffs; the acetates, if mixed with some +acetic acid, may also be used. The process consists in preparing the +dye-bath containing both the mordant and the dye-stuff, entering the +cotton, steeping for some time, then wringing and steaming. During the +latter operation the acid combined with the mordant, being volatile, +passes away, and the colouring matter and mordant enter into combination +to form the colour lake, which is firmly fixed upon the fibre. Very good +results may be obtained by this method. + +Lastly, in connection with the mordant colours, attention may be +directed to the process of using some of them, which consists in making +a solution of the dye-stuff in ammonia, impregnating the cotton with +this alkaline solution, and subjecting it to a steaming operation, +during which the alkali, being volatile, passes away, leaving the +colouring matter behind in an insoluble form. The cotton is next passed +into a weak bath of the mordant (preferably the acetates of iron, +etc.)., this being used first cold and then gradually heated up. The dye +on the fibre and the mordant combine to form the desired colour, which +is fixed on the fibre. + +The chrome mordants are those which are most commonly applied by the +methods here sketched out, and with the large and increasing number of +mordant dyes available, the processes should be worth attention from the +cotton dyer. + +The following recipes give fuller details than the outline sketches of +the methods given above for the use of the various dyes produced with +the mordant dyes and metallic mordants. In some cases as will be seen +other dyes may be added to produce special shades:-- + +_Dark Olive._--Prepare a bath from 8 lb. cutch, 4 lb. logwood extract, 7 +lb. fustic extract, 2 lb. copper sulphate. Work in this for one to one +and a half hours at the boil. This bath may be kept standing, adding new +ingredients from time to time, and works best when it gets old. Then +pass into a cold bath of 3 lb. copperas for one hour, then wash and +enter into a new bath of 10 lb. salt, 6 oz. Titan blue 3 B, 6 oz. Titan +brown R, 6 oz. Titan yellow Y, work for one hour at the boil, then lift, +wash and dry. + +_Brown._--Prepare a bath with 20 lb. cutch, 2 lb. copper sulphate, 4 lb. +quercitron extract. Work for one and a quarter hours at the boil, then +allow to lie for a day, when the goods are passed into a bath containing +3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. alum. Work at 150 deg. to 160 deg. F. in +this for a few minutes, then allow to lie for four to five hours, wash +well and dry. + +_Olive._--Work for twenty minutes at 80 deg. F. in a bath of 10 lb. fustic +extract, 5 lb. quercitron extract, 2 lb. logwood extract; heat to boil, +work for half an hour, then enter in a cold bath of 2 lb. sodium +bichromate and 5 lb. copper sulphate; work for twenty minutes, then heat +to boil; work for twenty minutes more, wash and dry. + +_Pale Brown._--Treat in a hot bath of 25 lb. cutch, 1-3/4 lb. bluestone; +work for half an hour in this bath, then lift, wring, and work in a bath +of 1-3/4 lb. bichromate of potash for twenty to thirty minutes. Dye in a +bath of 2-1/4 lb. alum, 7 oz. Chrysoidin, 14 oz. Ponceau B. + +_Fast Brown._--The cotton is heated in a boiling bath containing 20 lb. +cutch, 4 oz. copper sulphate for one hour, it is then treated in a bath +containing 8 oz. bichromate of potash for half an hour, then dyed in a +bath containing 2 oz. Benzo black blue, 6 oz. Benzo brown N B, 2 lb. +soap, 8 lb. salt, for one hour at the boil, washed and dried. + +_Drab._--Dissolve 1/2 lb. cutch, 7 lb. bluestone, 8 lb. extract of +fustic; enter goods at 120 deg. F., give six turns, lift and drain. Prepare +a fresh bath containing 2 lb. copperas; enter goods, give three turns, +lift, and enter fresh bath at 120 deg., containing 2 lb. bichromate of +potash, give four turns, drain, wash and dry. + +_Coffee Brown._--For one piece, wet out in hot water, run for half an +hour upon a jigger in a bath of 6 lb. good cutch, take up and drain in a +bath of 8 lb. black iron liquor; drain, run again through each bath and +rinse well. Prepare a fresh bath with Bismarck brown, enter at 100 deg. F., +heat slowly to 200 deg. F., drain, rinse and dry. + +_Dark Brown Olive._--Prepare the dye-bath with 12 lb. cutch, 2 lb. +bluestone, 2-1/2 lb. alum, 10 lb. quercitron extract, 2 lb. indigo +carmine 4 lb. turmeric, 1/4 lb. Bismarck brown; boil for one and a half +hours, then lift and add 1 lb. copperas; re-enter the goods, give +another half-hour, boil, then add 1-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash, work +two hours more, then wash and dry. + +_Red Drab._--Boil up 10 lb. cutch and 5 lb. sumac; enter the cotton at +140 deg. F., work fifteen minutes and lift. Prepare a fresh bath of 4 lb. +black iron liquor; enter the cotton cold, work ten minutes and lift. +Prepare another bath with 3 lb. bichromate of potash; enter cotton at +160 deg. F., work fifteen minutes, lift and wash. Finish in a fresh bath +containing 3 lb. logwood, 6 lb. red liquor; enter cotton at 100 deg. F., +work ten minutes, lift, wash and dry. + +_Fawn._--Boil up 5 lb. cutch and 5 oz. bluestone, cool to 100 deg. F.; +enter, give six turns, lift, and add 2 lb. copperas; re-enter cotton, +give four turns, lift and wring. Prepare a fresh bath with 1 lb. +bichromate of potash; enter cotton at 110 deg. F., give five turns, lift, +wash and dry. + +_Grey Slate._--Boil up 10 lb. sumac, 3 lb. fustic extract; cool down to +120 deg. F., give eight turns, lift and wring. Prepare a fresh bath with 5 +lb. copperas; enter cotton cold, give five turns, lift and wash. + +_Dark Plum._--Lay down overnight in 30 lb. sumac. Next morning wring and +enter in a fresh bath of oxy-muriate of tin 20 deg. Tw., give four turns, +lift and wash well in two waters. Boil out 40 lb. ground logwood, 10 lb. +ground fustic, cool bath down to 140 deg. F.; enter cotton, give eight +turns, lift and add 1-1/2 gallons red liquor; re-enter yarn, give four +turns, lift, wash and dry. + +_Pale Chamois._--Work the cotton seven turns in a cold bath of 3 lb. +copperas, then wring and pass into a cold bath of 3 lb. soda ash; work +well, wash and dry. + +_Dark Brown Olive._--Prepare a bath of 28 lb. fustic, 3/4 lb. logwood, +18 lb. cutch, 4 lb. turmeric, 2 lb. copper sulphate, 3/4 lb. alum; work +for an hour at the boil, then sadden in a new bath of 1 lb. bichromate +of potash for half an hour, then sadden in a new bath of 1/4 lb. nitrate +of iron, working in the cold for half an hour, lift, wash and dry. + +_Havana Brown._--Prepare a bath with 4 lb. cutch and 1 lb. bluestone; +work at the boil for one hour, then pass through a warm bath of 1/2 lb. +bichromate of potash, 1 lb. sulphuric acid. Wash and dye in a bath of +3/4 lb. Bismarck brown and 4 lb. alum; work for one hour at about 180 deg. +F., wash and dry. + +_Black._--Prepare a dye-bath with 20 lb. extract of logwood, 4 lb. +cutch, 5 lb. soda ash, 5 lb. copper sulphate. Heat to the boil, enter +the cotton, and work well for three hours, then lift, and allow to lie +overnight in a wet condition, wash and pass into a bath of 1 lb. +bichromate of potash for half an hour; lift, wash and dry. The dye-bath +is not exhausted, and only about one-third of the various drugs need be +added for further batches of cotton. + +_Reseda Green._--Prepare a bath with 15 lb. cutch, 8 lb. turmeric; work +in this for fifteen minutes at about 150 deg. F., then pass through a hot +bath of 2 lb. bichromate of potash for one hour, then re-enter into a +cutch bath to which has been added, 1 lb. sulphate of iron; work for one +hour, then add 2 lb. alum and work half an hour longer, rinse, wash and +dry. + +_Fawn Brown._--Prepare a dye-bath with 4 lb. cutch, 2 lb. fustic +extract; work for one hour at hand heat, then lift, and pass through a +bath of 1-1/4 lb. bichromate of potash; work for a quarter of an hour, +rinse and pass into a fresh bath of 1 oz. Bismarck brown for ten +minutes, then lift, wash and dry. + +_Beige._--Prepare a bath with 20 lb. sumac; enter cotton at 120 deg. F., +give six turns, lift and add 1/2 lb. copperas; re-enter cotton, give +four turns and wring. Prepare a fresh bath containing 2 lb. extract of +fustic, 3 oz. extract of indigo; enter cotton at 120 deg. F., give three +turns, raise temperature to 140 deg. F., and turn to shade, lift, wash and +dry. + +_Turkey Red._--One of the most important colours dyed on cotton is that +known as Turkey red, a bright red of a bluish tone, characterised by its +great fastness to light, washing, etc. Strong alkalies turn it more +yellowish, but weak acids and alkalies have little action. + +Into the history of the dyeing of Turkey red it is not intended to +enter, those who are interested in the subject should refer to old works +on dyeing; nor is it intended to speak of old methods of producing it +with the aid of madder, but rather to give some of the most modern +methods for dyeing it with alizarine. + +Many processes differing somewhat in detail have been devised for dyeing +Turkey red on cotton, and it is probable that no two Turkey-red dyers +work exactly alike. It is difficult to produce the most perfect red, and +a very great deal of care in carrying out the various operations is +necessary to obtain it. This care and the number of operations makes +Turkey red an expensive colour to dye, and so shorter methods are in use +which dye a red on cotton that is cheaper, but not so brilliant or fast +as a true Turkey red. + +_Process_ 1.--This process is perhaps the most elaborate of all +processes, but it yields a fine red. The process is applicable to cloth +or yarn, although naturally the machinery used will vary to suit the +different conditions of the material. Bleached yarn or cloth may be +treated, although a full bleach is not necessary, but the cloth or yarn +must be clean or well scoured, so that it is free from grease and other +impurities. + +Operation 1. Boil the cotton for six to eight hours with a carbonate of +soda lye at 1 deg. Tw. in a kier at ordinary pressure, then wash well, +wring, or, better, hydro-extract. + +Operation 2. First "greening": What is called the "first green liquor" +is prepared by taking 15 lb. of gallipoli oil, 3 lb. phosphate of soda +and 15 lb. carbonate of soda, the liquor to stand at 2 deg. Tw. Originally +this "liquor" was made with sheep dung, but this is now omitted. The +cotton is worked in this liquor, which is kept at 100 deg. F., until it is +thoroughly impregnated, then it is taken out, squeezed and dried, or in +some cases piled overnight and then stoved. + +Operation 3. Second green liquor. As before. + +Operation 4. Third green liquor. As before. + +Operation 5. A carbonate of soda liquor of 2 deg. Tw. strength is prepared, +and the cotton steeped in this until it is thoroughly impregnated, then +it is wrung out and stoved. This is called "white liquor treatment". + +Operation 6. Second white liquor. As before. + +Operation 7. Steeping: Prepare a bath of water at 150 deg. F., and steep for +twelve hours, then wring and dry. + +Operation 8. Sumacing: A liquor is made from 12 lb. sumac with water, +and after straining from undissolved sumac leaves the liquor is made to +stand at 2 deg. Tw., this is kept at about a 100 deg. F., and the cotton is well +worked in it and allowed to steep for four hours, after which it is +taken out and wrung. + +Operation 9. Mordanting or aluming: 20 lb. of alum are dissolved in hot +water, and 5 lb. of soda crystals are slowly added in order to prepare a +basic alum solution; this is now made by the addition of water to stand +at 8 deg. Tw. + +The sumaced cotton is worked in this bath and allowed to steep for +twenty-four hours, when it is taken out and wrung. Some dyers add a +little tin crystals to this bath; others add a small quantity of red +liquor. + +Operation 10. The dyeing: A cold bath is prepared with 10 lb. to 12 lb. +alizarine, 3 lb. sumac extract, and 2 oz. lime. The cotton is entered +into the cold bath, worked from fifteen to twenty minutes so as to get +it thoroughly impregnated; then the heat is slowly raised to the boil +and the dyeing carried on at that heat until the full shade is obtained, +which usually takes about an hour. According to the brand of alizarine +used so will the shade that is obtained vary, as will be mentioned later +on. + +Operation 11. First clearing: The dyed cotton is placed in a boiler and +boiled for four hours with 3 lb. soda crystals and 3 lb. palm oil soap, +afterwards washing well. + +Operation 12. Second clearing: The dyed cotton is again boiled for two +hours with 2-1/2 lb. soap and 1/2 lb. tin crystals, then give a good +washing and dry. + +This process is a long one--indeed, some dyers by repeating some of the +operations lengthen it--and it takes at least two weeks, in some cases +three weeks, to carry out. + +The first idea is to get the cotton thoroughly impregnated with the oil, +and this oxidised to some extent on the fibre, and to this end the oil +treatments are carried out. In this process experience has shown that +olive oil is the best to use, although other oils have been tried from +time to time. The sumacing enables the alumina to be more firmly fixed +on to the cotton. The alumina combines with both the oil and the sumac, +and the resulting mordant produces a better and more brilliant red with +the alizarine. The clearing operations serve to remove impurities, to +brighten the colour, and to more fully fix it on the cotton. + +_Process_ 2.--Operation 1. The cotton is well bleached or scoured with +soda in the usual way. + +Operation 2. Oiling or preparing: A liquor is made from 10 lb. alizarine +oil or Turkey-red oil in 10 gallons water. This oil is prepared from +castor oil by a process of treatment with sulphuric acid, washing with +water and neutralising with caustic soda. The cotton is thoroughly +impregnated with this oil by steeping, then it is wrung out and dried. + +Operation 3. Steaming: The cotton is put into a steaming cottage or +continuous steaming chamber and steamed for from one to one and a half +hours at about 5 lb. pressure. + +Operation 4. A bath of red liquor (acetate of alumina) at 8 deg. Tw. is +prepared. Some dyers use basic alum at the same strength. In this bath +the cotton is steeped at 100 deg. F. for two hours; then it is wrung out and +dried. This aluming bath can be repeated. Next it is run through a bath +of chalk and water containing 2 lb. chalk in 10 gallons water. This +helps to fix the alumina on the cotton. Phosphate of soda also makes a +good fixing agent. + +Operation 5. Dyeing: This is carried out in precisely the same way as in +the other process. + +Operation 6. Oiling: A second oiling is now given in a bath of 5 lb. +alizarine oil, or Turkey-red oil, in 10 gallons water, after which the +cotton is dried, when it is ready for further treatment. In place of +giving a second oiling after the dyeing, it is, perhaps, better to give +it after the mordanting and before dyeing. + +Operation 7. Clearing: The dyed cotton is cleared with soap in the same +manner as the clearing operations of the first process, which see. + +Any of the treatments preparatory to, and following the actual dyeing +of, any of these processes may be repeated if deemed necessary. The +text-books on dyeing and the technical journals devoted to the subject +frequently contain accounts of methods of dyeing Turkey red, but when +these come to be dissected the methods are but little more than variants +of those which have just been given. + +Seeing that the theory or theories involved in this rather complex +process of dyeing Turkey red, and that colourists are not agreed as to +the real part played by the oil, the sumac and the clearing operations +in the formation of a Turkey red on cotton, nothing will be said here as +to the theory of Turkey-red dyeing. + +_Alizarine Red._--It is possible to dye a red with alizarine on cotton +which, while being a good colour, is not quite so fast to washing, etc., +as a Turkey red. This is done by using fewer treatments, as shown in the +following process:-- + +_Process_ 1.--Boil the cotton in soda. +_Process_ 2.--Oil with Turkey-red oil, as in the Turkey-red process + No. 2 above. +_Process_ 3.--Mordant with alum or acetate of alumina. +_Process_ 4.--Dye with alizarine as before. +_Process_ 5.--Soap. + +There are three distinct colouring matters which are sold commercially +under the name of "alizarine". These are: alizarine itself, which +produces a bluish shade of red; anthra-purpurine, which gives a similar +but less blue red than alizarine; and flavo-purpurine, which produces +the yellowest reds. The makers send out all these various products under +various marks. + +For dyeing Turkey reds the flavo-and anthra-purpurine brands or yellow +alizarines are to be preferred; for pinks and rose shades the alizarine +or blue shade brands are best. + +_Alizarine Pink._--This can be dyed in the same way as Turkey red, only +using for full pinks 4 per cent, of alizarine in the dye-bath, or for +pale pinks 1 to 2 per cent. It is advisable to reduce the strength of +the oiling and mordanting baths down to one-half. + +_Alizarine Violet._--Alizarine has the property of combining with iron +to form a dark violet colour, and advantage is taken of this fact to dye +what are called in the dyeing and calico printing trades alizarine +purples and lilacs, although these do not resemble in hue or brilliance +the purples and lilacs which can be got from the direct dyes. They have +not the importance which they formerly possessed, and but a mere outline +of two processes for their production will be given. + +_Alizarine Purple._--_Process_ 1. (1) Boil with soda, (2) prepare with +Turkey red oil, (3) mordant by steeping in copperas liquor at 4 deg. Tw. for +twenty minutes, take out, allow to lie on stillages overnight, then wash +and dry. For deep purples it may be advisable to repeat these +treatments; for pale lilacs using them at half strength is advisable. +(4) Dye with 8 to 10 per cent. of alizarine blue shade, working as +described under Turkey red. The best results are obtained when 1 per +cent, of chalk is added to the dye-bath. (5) Soap as in red dyeing. + +_Process_ 2. (1) Boil with soda, (2) oil with Turkey-red oil, (3) steep +in pyrolignite of iron (iron liquor) for one hour, then age by hanging +in the air. (4) Dye as before. (5) Soap. + +Fine blacks are got if after oiling the cotton is treated with sumac or +tannic acid, then mordanted with iron and dyed with alizarine as usual. + +_Chocolate Browns._--Fine fast chocolate browns can be got from +alizarine by using a mixed mordant of iron and alumina, either the +acetate or the sulphate. By varying the relative proportions various +shades can be obtained. + +_Alizarine Orange_--Prepare the cotton as if for dyeing a Turkey red, +but use in the dye-bath 8 to 10 per cent. of Alizarine orange. + +_Alizarine Blue_--The cotton is boiled three hours with 3 per cent. +ammonia soda at 30 lb. pressure, and then washed thoroughly. The boiled, +washed and hydro-extracted yarn is oiled with a solution containing from +1/4 lb. to 1-1/2 lb. Turkey-red oil, 50 per cent. for every gallon of +water. It is then wrung out evenly and dried for twelve hours at 150 deg. F. + +_Tannin Grounding._ + +The oiled and dried cotton is worked three-quarters of an hour in a vat +containing a tannin solution (1 oz. per gallon). The cotton remains in +this liquid, which is allowed to cool off for twelve hours, then it is +hydro-extracted. Sumac turns the shade somewhat greener, which is +noticed especially after bleaching, therefore tannin is given the +preference. + +_Chromium Mordant._ + +The cotton treated with tannin and then hydro-extracted is worked cold +for one hour in a vat containing a solution of chromium chloride at 32 deg. +Tw., and remains in this solution twelve hours. The cotton is then +hydro-extracted and washed directly; it is best to employ running water. +A special fixation does not take place. The cotton is now ready for +dyeing. The solution of chromium chloride and the tannin solution can be +used continuously, adding fresh liquor to keep the baths up to strength. + +_Dyeing_--For dyeing, water free from lime must be used. Water having +not more than 2.5 deg. hardness can be employed if it is corrected with +acetic acid, thereby converting the carbonate of lime into acetate of +lime. Very calcareous water must be freed from lime before use. The +dye-bath contains for 100 lb. cotton 15 lb. Alizarine blue paste (A R or +F, according to the shade desired), 35 lb. acetic acid (12 deg. Tw.), 15-1/2 +lb. ammonia (25 per cent.), 2-1/4 oz. tannin. The cotton is worked a +quarter of an hour in the cold; the temperature is raised slowly to a +boil, taking about one hour, and the cotton is worked three-quarters of +an hour at that heat. Finally the cotton is washed and hydro-extracted. +The dyed and washed cotton is steamed two hours at 15 lb. to 22 lb. +pressure. Steaming turns the shade greener and darker, and increases the +fastness. After steaming the cotton it is soaped one or two hours at the +boil, with or without pressure. According to the quality of water +employed, 2 to 5 parts soap per 1,000 parts water are taken. + +_Brown._--A fine brown is got by a similar process to this, if instead +of Alizarine blue, Alizarine orange is used in the dye-bath. A deeper +brown still if Anthracene brown, or a mixture of Anthracene brown and +Alizarine blue, be used. + +_Claret Red._--Clarets to maroon shade of red are got by preparing the +cotton as for blue given above, then dyeing with alizarine. + +_Logwood Black._--One of the most important colours that come under this +section is logwood black, the formation of which on the fibre depends +upon the fact that the colouring principle of logwood forms a black +colour lake with iron and also one with chromium. + +There are many ways of dyeing logwood blacks on cotton, whether that be +in form of hanks of yarns, warps or pieces. While these blacks may be, +and in the case of hanks are, dyed by what may be termed an intermittent +process, yet for warps and piece goods a continuous process is preferred +by dyers. Examples of both methods will be given. As in the dyeing of +Turkey reds it is probable that no two dyers of logwood blacks quite +agree in the details of their process, there may be variations in the +order of the various baths and in their relative strengths. Typical +methods will be noted here. + +=Dyeing Logwood Black on Yarn in Hanks.=--Operation 1. Sumacing: Prepare +a bath with 10 lb. sumac extract in hot water. Work the yarn in this for +half an hour, then allow to steep for six hours or overnight, lift and +wring. The liquor which is left may be used again for another lot of +yarn by adding 5 lb. sumac extract for each successive lot of yarn. In +place of using sumac the cheaper myrabolam extract may be used. + +Operation 2. Ironing or Saddening: Prepare a bath with 3-1/2 gallons +nitrate of iron, 80 deg. Tw. Work the yarn in this for fifteen minutes, then +wring out. The bath may be used again when 1 gallon of nitrate of iron +is added for each lot of yarn worked in it. In place of the nitrate of +iron, the pyrolignite of iron or iron liquor may be used. + +Operation 3. Liming: Work for ten minutes in a weak bath of milk of +lime. + +Operation 4. Dyeing: This is done in a bath made from 10 lb. logwood +extract and 1 lb. fustic extract. The yarn is entered into the cold or +tepid bath, the heat slowly raised to about 150 deg. F, then kept at this +heat until a good black is got, when the yarn is taken out, rinsed and +wrung. The addition of the fustic extract enables a much deeper and +jetter shade of black to be dyed. + +Operation 5. Saddening: To obtain a fuller black the dyed cotton is sent +through a bath of 1-1/2 lb. of copperas, then washed well. + +Operation 6. Soaping: Work for twenty minutes in a bath of 2 lb. soap at +140 deg. to 150 deg. F. Then wash well. + +Much the same process may be followed for dyeing logwood black on warps +and piece goods, jiggers being used for each operation. + +Another method is to first work the cotton in pyrolignite (iron liquor) +at 10 deg. Tw., until it is thoroughly impregnated, then to dry and hang in +the air for some hours, next to pass through lime water to fix the iron, +and then to dye as before. + +_Continuous Process._--In this case a continuous dyeing machine is +provided, fitted with five to six compartments. The cotton is first of +all prepared by steeping in a bath of 12 lb. myrabolam extract for +several hours, then it is taken to the continuous machine and run in +succession through nitrate of iron liquor, lime water, logwood and +fustic, iron liquor and water. The nitrate of iron bath contains 2 +gallons of the nitrate to 10 gallons of water, and as the pieces go +through fresh additions of this liquor are made from time to time to +keep up the volume and strength of the liquor to the original points. + +The logwood bath is made from 10 lb. logwood extract and 1 lb. fustic +extract, and it is used at about 160 deg. F. The quantities here given will +serve for 100 lb. of cotton, and it is well to add them dissolved up in +hot water in small quantities from time to time as the cotton goes +through the bath. + +The iron liquor given after the dyeing contains 2 lb. of copperas in 10 +gallons of water. + +Between the various compartments of the machine is fitted squeezing +rollers to press out any surplus liquor, which is run back into the +compartment. The rate of running the warp or pieces through should not +be too rapid, and the dyer must adapt the rate to the speed with which +the cloth dyes up in the dye-bath. + +The addition of a little red liquor (alumina acetate) to the iron bath +is sometimes made, this is advantageous, as it results in the production +of a finer black. Iron by itself tends to give a rusty-looking, or +brownish black, but the violet, or lilac shade that alumina gives with +logwood, tones the black and makes it look more pleasant. + +Some dyers add a small quantity, 1 per cent., of the weight of the +cotton of sulphate of copper to the iron bath, others add even more than +this. Some use nitrate of copper; the copper giving a greenish shade of +black with logwood, and this tones down the iron black and makes it more +bloomy in appearance. + +Single bath methods of dyeing logwood blacks are in use, such methods +are not economical as a large quantity, both of dye-wood and mordants, +remain in the bath unused. Although full intense blacks can be dyed with +them, the black is rather loosely fixed and tends to rub off. This is +because as both the dye-stuff and the mordant are in the same bath +together they tend to enter into combination and form a colour lake that +precipitates out in the dye-bath, causing the loss of material alluded +to above, while some of it gets mechanically fixed on the cotton, in a +more or less loose form, and this looseness causes the colour to rub +off. + +For a _chrome-logwood black_, a dye-bath is made with 3 lb. bichromate +of potash, 100 gallons logwood decoction at 3 deg. Tw., and 6-1/2 lb. +hydrochloric acid. Enter the cotton into the cold bath, raise slowly to +the boil and work until the cotton has acquired a full black blue +colour, then take it out and rinse in a hot lime water when a blue black +will be got. + +A _copper-logwood black_ is got by taking 100 gallons logwood decoction +at 3 deg. Tw., and 6 lb. copper acetate (verdigris); the cotton is entered +cold and brought up to the boil. Copper nitrate may be used in the place +of the copper acetate, when it is a good plan to add a little soda to +the bath. Some dyers in working a copper-logwood black make the dye-bath +from 100 gallons logwood liquor at 2 deg. Tw., 4 lb. copper sulphate +(bluestone) and 4 lb. soda. This bath is used at about 180 deg. to 190 deg. F., +for three-quarters of an hour, then the cotton is lifted out, wrung and +aged or as it is sometimes called "smothered" for five hours. The +operations are repeated two or three times to develop a full black. + +Logwood black dyeing has lost much of its importance of late years owing +to the introduction of the many direct blacks, which are much easier of +application and leave the cotton with a fuller and softer feel. + +_Logwood Greys._--These are much dyed on cotton and are nothing more +than weak logwood blacks, and may be dyed by the same processes only +using baths of about one-tenth the strength. + +By a one-bath process 5 lb. of logwood are made into a decoction and to +this 1 lb. of copperas (ferrous sulphate) is added and the cotton is +dyed at about 150 deg. F. in this bath. By adding to the dye-bath small +quantities of other dye-woods, fustic, peach wood, sumach, etc., greys +of various shades are obtained. Some recipes bearing on this point are +given in this section. + +Logwood is not only used for dyeing blacks and greys as the principal +colouring matter, but is also used as a shading colour along with cutch, +fustic, quercitron, etc., in dyeing olives, browns, etc., and among the +recipes given in this section examples of its use in this direction will +be found. + +The dye-woods--fustic, Brazil wood, bar wood, Lima wood, cam wood, +cutch, peach wood, quercitron bark, Persian berries--have since the +introduction of the direct dyes lost much of their importance and are +now little used. Cutch is used in the dyeing of browns and several +recipes have already been given. Their production consists essentially +in treating the cotton in a bath of cutch, either alone or for the +purpose of shading with other dye-woods when the cotton takes up the +tannin and colouring matter of the cutch, etc. The colour is then +developed by treatment with bichromate of potash, either with or without +the addition of an iron salt to darken the shade of brown. + +The usual methods of applying all the other dye-woods, to obtain +scarlets to reds with Brazil wood, Lima wood, peach wood; or yellows +with fustic, quercitron or Persian berries, is to first prepare the +cotton with sumac, then mordant with alumina acetate or tin crystals +(the latter gives the brightest shades), then dye in a decoction of the +dye-woods. Sometimes the cotton is boiled in a bath of the wood when it +takes up some of the dye-wood, next there is added alumina acetate or +tin crystals and the dyeing is continued when the colour becomes +developed and fixed upon the cotton. + +Iron may be used as a mordant for any of these dye-woods but it gives +dull sad shades. + +Chrome mordants can also be used and these produce darker shades than +tin or alumina mordants. + +As practically all these dye-woods are now not used by themselves it has +not been deemed necessary to give specific recipes for their +application, on previous pages several are given showing their use in +combination with other dyes. + +The dye-stuff Dinitroso-resorcine or Solid green O is used along with +iron mordants for producing fast greens and with chrome mordants for +producing browns to a limited extent in cotton dyeing. The following +recipes give the details of the process. + +_Green._--Steep the cotton yarn or cloth in the following liquor until +well impregnated, then dry: 3 gallons iron liquor (pyrolignite of iron), +22 deg. Tw. gallons of water, 3/4 gallon acetic acid, 12 deg. Tw., 2 lb. +ammonium chloride. Then pass the cotton through a warm bath of 3 oz. +phosphate of soda and 4 oz. chalk per gallon, then enter into a dye-bath +containing 6 lb. Solid green O. Work as described for dyeing alizarine +red. For darker greens of a Russian green shade use 10 lb. of solid +green O, in the dye-bath. + +_Brown._--A fine brown is got by steeping the cotton in a bath of 8 lb. +Solid green O, 6-3/4 gallons water, 1-1/2 gallons ammonia and 2 lb. +acetate of chrome; dry, then pass through a soap-bath, wash and dry. + +_Deep Olive Brown._--Mix 8 lb. Solid green O and 4-1/2 lb. borax with 6 +gallons water, add 1/2 lb. Turkey-red oil, 5 lb. ammonia, then 2 gallons +water and 1-1/2 lb. copper-soda solution and another 2 gallons water. +Steep the cotton in this, dry, soap well and wash. The copper-soda +solution is made from 10 lb. chloride of copper (75 deg. Tw.), 5 lb. +tartaric acid, 12 lb. caustic soda (75 deg. Tw.) and 4 lb. glycerine. + +_Khaki._--Make the dye liquor from 14 lb. Solid green O, 1/2 lb. +Alizarine yellow N, 1 lb. caustic soda (36 deg. Tw.), 1/2 lb. Turkey-red oil +and 8 gallons water. To this add 2-1/2 lb. acetate of chrome (32 deg. Tw.), +2-1/4 lb. copper-soda solution and 4 gallons water. + +_Sage Green._--Use 1-1/4 lb. Solid green O, 3 lb. caustic soda (36 deg. +Tw.), 1/2 lb. Ceruleine, 1/2 lb. Turkey-red oil, 1 gallon water to which +is added 2-1/2 lb. acetate of chrome (32 deg. Tw.) and 2-1/4 lb. copper-soda +solution dissolved in 4 gallons water. + +_Pale Brown._--Use 4 lb. Solid green O, 2-1/2 lb. borax, 3 lb. ammonia, +1/2 lb. Turkey-red oil, 6 gallons of water and 1-1/2 lb. copper-soda +solution dissolved in 2 gallons water. + +_Pale Fawn Brown._--The dye-bath is made from 1/2 lb. Alizarine, 1-1/4 +lb. Solid green O, 1-1/2 lb. borax, 1/2 lb. Turkey-red oil and 5 gallons +of water to which is added 1-1/2 lb. acetate of chrome (32 deg. Tw.), 1-1/2 +lb. copper-soda solution and 4 gallons water. In all cases the cotton is +steeped in the dye liquors until thoroughly impregnated, then the excess +liquor is wrung out, the cotton dried, then passed through a soap bath, +washed well and dried. + +_Dark Brown._--Place the cotton in a lukewarm bath of 25 lb. cutch and +1-1/2 lb. copper sulphate; work for half an hour, then steep for six +hours, then lift, wring and enter into a bath of 3-1/4 lb. bichromate of +potash at 160 deg. F. for twenty minutes. Then wash and dry. + +_Yellow Brown._--Make a bath with 14 lb. cutch and 1/2 lb. copper +sulphate; work in this bath for four hours at 120 deg. F., then pass into a +bath of 2 lb. copperas and 1/2 lb. chalk, work for half an hour in the +cold, then pass into a hot bath of 2-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash at +150 deg. F. for half an hour. + +_Dark Brown._--Make a dye-bath with 15 lb. cutch, 2 lb. logwood extract +and 2 lb. fustic extract; work the cotton in this at 160 deg. F. for three +hours, then pass into a cold bath of 1 lb. copperas and 1/4 lb. chalk +for half an hour, then into a bath of 3 lb. bichromate of potash for +half an hour at 150 deg. F., then wash and dry. + + +(7) PRODUCTION OF COLOUR DIRECT UPON COTTON FIBRES. + +By the action of nitrous acid upon the salts of the primary organic +amines the so-called diazo compounds are formed. An example of this +important process is that of nitrous acid on aniline hydrochloride shown +in the following equation:-- + +C{6}H{5}NH{2} + HCl + HNO{2} 2H{2}O + C{6}H{5}N:NCl +Hydrochloric acid Nitrous Water, Diazo-benzene +aniline, acid, chloride. + +These diazo compounds are distinguished by their active properties, +especially in combining with amines in acid solutions, or with phenols +in alkaline solution to form the azo dyes, thus diazobenzene chloride +will combine with naphthol to form naphthol-azo-benzene, thus:-- + +C{6}H{5}N:NCl + C{10}H{7}OH + NaOH = +Diazo-benzene chloride, Naphthol, Caustic soda. + +C{10}H{6}OHN:NC{6}H{5} + NaCl + H{2}O +Naphthol-azo-benzene, Salt, Water. + +These azo compounds are coloured, but are perfectly insoluble in water, +alkalies, or acids; on the other hand the sulphonates of these bodies +are easily soluble and form the numerous azo dyes now so largely made +and used in wool and silk dyeing, but which on account of their being +sulphonates cannot be used for cotton dyeing. + +Methods have been devised for producing the insoluble azo colours direct +upon the fibres. They are also called naphthol colours from the use of +beta-and alpha-naphthol in their production. Although these azo dyes, +when produced on the fibre, do not possess the fastness of the alizarine +dyes, yet, on account of their cheapness and relative great fastness to +soap and the action of sunlight, they are better than many of the newer +cotton dyes. + +By this method (first introduced in England by Holliday) colours of +exceptional brightness and fastness can be obtained which were not +obtainable with the dyes then known. Those which are obtained from +phenols are of the first importance. + +_The Diazotisation of the Amido Bases._ + +With most bases this must be accomplished as cold as possible below 65 deg. +F. At a higher temperature, and when allowed to stand, most diazo +compounds decompose quickly with evolution of nitrogen, which +decomposition results in the mixture losing its power of producing +colour, or at the most gives unsatisfactory results. For this reason it +is therefore always necessary to work as cold and as quickly as +possible. + +The amido-azo bodies, whose compounds with the phenols are also +distinguished by their great fastness, are in this respect an exception. +They can be diazotised at the ordinary temperature, and their diazo +compounds are much stabler than those, for example, of alpha-and +beta-naphthylamine or of aniline, which must always be used as quickly +as possible. + +From anisidine, phenetidine and amido-diphenylamine, still more stable +diazo compounds can be obtained, but the prices of these bases are +rather high, and the colours produced with them are not fast to light. + +The cheapest and most convenient method of obtaining nitrous acid for +diazotising is by the action of a mineral acid, preferably hydrochloric +acid, upon nitrite of soda. + +For diazotising one molecule of base requires one molecule of +hydrochloric acid to form a salt of the base, a molecule of nitrite of +soda, and another molecule of hydrochloric acid to decompose the +nitrite. The diazotisation is better carried out and the diazo solution +rendered more stable if another molecule of hydrochloric acid and an +excess of nitrite of soda are used. The presence of an excess of nitrite +can be determined by testing the diazo solution with potassium iodide +starch paper, which in the presence of excess of nitrite gives the blue +iodine starch reaction. + +In carrying out the diazotisation, the base is first dissolved in the +whole amount of hydrochloric acid which has to be used, and the solution +is filtered. The diazotisation takes place in the manner shown in the +equation:-- + + C{6}H{5}NH{2} + HCl + HCl + NaNO{2} = +Aniline hydrochloride, Hydrochloric acid, Sodium nitrite, + + NaCl + C{6}H{5}N:NCl + H{2}0 + Salt, Diazo-benzene chloride, Water. + +The bases which form salts soluble with difficulty, such as nitroaniline +and the amido-azo bodies, offer special difficulties in diazotising. + +It has been found that the operation with these is best carried out if +the chemically pure bases in paste form are mixed with the requisite +amount of nitrite, and the diluted paste then poured into the +hydrochloric acid. + +It has been found by experience that the colour is developed much +brighter upon the fibre when the diazo solution contains acetic acid and +no free mineral acid. However, the diazotisation is better carried out +with hydrochloric acid, and the presence of the latter is necessary to +give stability to the solution. If before the diazo solution is used a +quantity of acetate of soda be added to it, the free hydrochloric acid +liberates acetic acid from the acetate, and the chloride of the diazo +body changes into its acetate. It is better to add an excess above the +two molecules of acetate of soda which are required. + +The combination when aniline and beta-naphthol are used, as the amine +and phenol respectively, is shown in the following equations:-- + + C{6}H{5}N:NCl + C{10}H{7}OH + +Diazo-benzene chloride, B. naphthol, + +NaOH = 2NaCl + C{6}H{5}N:NC{10}H{6}OH + H{2}O +Caustic soda, Benzene- azo-naphthol, Water. + +Or, with naphthylamine and naphthol, thus:-- + +C{10}H{7}N:NCl + C{10}H{7}OH + NaOH = + + NaCl + C{10}H{7}N:NC{10}H{6}OH + H{2}O + Naphthalene azo-naphthol. + +By the action of nitrous acid upon amido-azo bodies a group of bodies +called diazo-azo compounds are obtained which contain the group N:N +twice over, thus:-- + + C{6}H{5}N:NC{6}H{4}NH{2}HCl + NaNO{2} + 2HCl = + Benzene-azo-aniline-hydrochloride, + +NaCl + C{6}H{5}N:NC{6}H{4}N:NCl + 2H{2}O. + Diazo-azo-benzene-chloride. + +When this compound is combined with naphthol diazo-azo dyes are +produced. + +C{6}H{5}N:NC{6}H{4}N:NC{10}H{6}OH. +Benzene-azo-benzene-azo-naphthol. + +The molecular weights of the bases, phenols and chemicals employed are +the following:-- + +1. Hydrochloric acid, HCl--36.5. 2. Caustic soda, NaOH--40. 3. Nitrite +of soda, NaNO{2}--69. 4. Acetate of soda, NaC{2}H{3}O{2}3H{2}O--136. + +1. Commercial hydrochloric acid at 32 deg. Tw. contains about 365 grams of +HCl in a litre, or 3-1/2 lb. in a gallon. + +2. The commercial 77 per cent. soda must always be used, and for +practical purposes it may be taken as pure. It is best to make a +solution which contains 160 grams NaOH in a litre of water. + +3. The nitrite supplied is almost chemically pure, and is easily soluble +in water. In order to make a solution 140 or 290 grams are dissolved per +litre. + +4. Crystallised acetate of soda contains 3 molecules of water of +crystallisation, and is usually somewhat moist. Instead of 136 grams 140 +are taken to allow for moisture. The amount is dissolved in about 500 +cubic centimetres of water. + + +_Bases._ + +1. Aniline, C{6}H{5}NH{2}--93. +2. Toluidine, C{7}H{7}NH{2}--107. +3. Alpha-and beta-naphthylamine, C{10}H{7}NH{2}--143. +4. Para-or meta-nitroaniline, C{6}H{4}NO{2}NH{2}--138. +5. Nitro-para-toluidine, C{7}H{6}NO{2}NH{2}--152. +6. Amidoazobenzene (base), C{6}H{5}N:NC{6}H{4}NH{2}--197. +7. Orthoamidoazotoluol (base), C{7}H{7}N:NC{7}H{6}NH{2}--225. +8. Alpha-or beta-naphthol C{10}H{7}OH--144. + + +_Example of Quantities Taken._ + + Molecular Weight. +1. Molecule nitrite 69 grams. +2. Molecule aniline 93 " +3. Molecule hydrochloric acid 365 " +4. Molecule acetate of soda 136 " +5. Molecule of naphthol 144 " +6. Molecule caustic soda 40 " + +Applying the principles which have just been described to the dyeing of +cotton, it is found that the cotton may be dyed by taking the base and +preparing the diazo body, impregnating the cotton with this, and +developing the colour by passing into a bath of the phenol. On the other +hand, the cotton can be prepared with the phenol and the colour +developed by passing into a bath of the diazotised base, and practice +has shown that this latter proceeding is the best. Practically the only +phenol that is used is the beta-naphthol; alpha-naphthol is occasionally +used, but not often. + +The purer the beta-naphthol the better, especially for producing the +paranitroaniline red. Various preparations of beta-naphthol have been +brought out by colour makers. + +The process of dyeing cotton with a naphthol colour takes place in two +stages, the first being the grounding or preparing with the naphthol, +the second the developing with the diazotised base. Some of the effects +which can be obtained from the two naphthols and various bases are given +in the following table:-- + + Base. With beta-naphthol, gives With alpha-naphthol, gives +1. Aniline, Orange yellow; Cutch brown. +2. Paratoluidine, Full yellow orange; Cutch brown. +3. Metanitroaniline, Fiery yellowish red; Brownish orange. +4. Paranitroaniline, Bright scarlet; " " +5. Nitroparatoluidine, Orange; Very bright catechu. +6. Alpha-naphthylamine, Bluish claret red; Reddish puce. +7. Beta-naphthylamine, Turkey red; " +8. Amidoazobenzene, Red; " +9. Orthoamidoazotoluene, Yellowish claret red; " + +By mixing alpha-and beta-naphthols together a variety of grenat and +claret reds and browns can be obtained. + +With regard to the fastness of the shades produced the following may be +considered:-- + + _Fast to Soaping._ + +Combination of A-Naphthol with Toluidine. + " " A-Naphthylamine. + " " B-Naphthylamine. + " " Amidoazobenzene. + " B-Naphthol with Toluidine. + " " Paranitroaniline. + " " Nitroparatoluidine. + " " B-Naphthylamine. + " " A-Naphthylamine. + + _Moderately Fast._ + +Combination of A-Naphthol with Aniline. + " " Paranitroaniline. + " " Orthoamidoazotoluene. + " B-Naphthol with Metanitroaniline. + " " Amidoazobenzene. + + _Very Loose._ + +Combination of A-Naphthol with Paratoluidine. + " " Metanitroaniline. + " " Nitroparatoluidine. + " B-Naphthol with Aniline. + " " Paratoluidine. + " " Orthoamidoazotoluene. + +The samples were tested for fastness to light by exposing them for nine +days with the following results:-- + + + _Fast._ + +Combination of A-Naphthol with Aniline. + " " Toluidine. + " " Metanitroaniline. + " " Paranitroaniline. + " " Nitroparatoluidine. + " " B-Naphthylamine. + " " Amidoazobenzol. + " " Orthoamidoazotoluol. + " B-Naphthol with Aniline. + " " Paratoluidine. + " " Metanitroaniline. + " " Paranitroaniline. + " " B-Naphthylamine. + " " A-Naphthylamine. + + _Moderately Fast._ + +Combination of B- Naphthol with Nitroparatoluidine. + + _Very Loose._ + + +Combination of A-Naphthol with Toluidine. + " " A-Naphthylamine + " B-Naphthol with Toluidine. + " " Amidoazobenzene. + " " Orthoamidoazotoluene. + +The most important of the naphthol colours is undoubtedly +paranitroaniline red, produced by the combination of paranitroaniline +and beta-naphthol. In order to produce the best and brightest shades +these two bodies must be quite pure. The following directions may be +followed:-- + + +=Dyeing Paranitroaniline Red on Yarn.= + +It unfortunately happens that this red does not admit of being worked in +large quantities at a time, particularly in the diazo bath where the +colour is developed, as the previous operations seem to render the yarn +slightly waterproof, and hence if large quantities of yarn were dealt +with at one time some would be found to be dyed all right, others would +be defective. It has, therefore, been found best to work only about 2 +lb. of yarn at a time, carefully carrying out each operation with this +quantity. As, however, the process can be quickly worked it follows that +in the course of a day a fairly large quantity of yarn can be treated. + +1. _Grounding._ The grounding or preparing bath for 100 lb. of yarn is +best made in the following manner: 4 lb. of beta-naphthol are stirred in +2-1/2 lb. of caustic soda liquor 70 deg. Tw., then 1-1/2 quarts of boiling +water is added, when dissolved 1-1/2 quarts of cold water. In a separate +vessel dissolve 5 lb. Turkey-red oil in 11 quarts of water, then mix the +two liquors together and add sufficient water to make up the whole to 12 +gallons. + +In working sufficient of this liquor is taken and put into a deep tub in +which 2 lb. of yarn can be conveniently worked. It is best to work at a +tepid heat, say 100 deg. to 110 deg. F.; 2 lb. of the yarn are worked in this +liquor, so that it becomes thoroughly impregnated, then it is gently +wrung out and hung up. This operation is repeated with each 2 lb. until +the whole 100 lb. has been treated, adding from time to time some of the +naphthol liquor to make up for that taken up by the cotton. When all the +yarn has been through the liquor, give it another dip through the same +liquor. Place the yarn in a hydro-extractor for five to seven minutes. +Next open out the yarn well, and hang on sticks and dry in a stove at +140 deg. to 150 deg. F. The stove should be heated with iron pipes, through +which steam at 30 lb. to 40 lb. pressure passes. This stove should be +reserved entirely for this work, for if other goods be dried in it along +with the naphthol-prepared cotton, any steam or acid vapours which might +be given off from the former might damage the latter. + +When thoroughly dry the yarn is ready for the next operation. + +2. _Developing._ The developing bath is made in the following manner: +1-1/2 lb. paranitroaniline is mixed with 1-1/2 gallons of boiling water, +and 1-3/4 quarts of hydrochloric acid at 30 deg. to 32 deg. Tw. Stir well until +the paranitroaniline is completely dissolved, add 3-1/2 gallons of cold +water, which will cause a precipitation of the hydrochlorate of +paranitroaniline as a yellow powder. Let the mixture thoroughly cool +off, best by allowing to stand all night; 1-1/4 lb. of nitrite of soda +is dissolved in 4 quarts of cold water, and this solution is added to +the paranitroaniline solution slowly and with constant stirring; in +about fifteen to twenty minutes the diazotisation will be complete. At +this and following stages the temperature of working should be kept as +low as possible. Some dyers use ice in preparing their diazo solutions, +and certainly the best results are attained thereby, but with +paranitroaniline the ice can be dispensed with. After the end of the +time sufficient cold water is added to bring the volume of the liquor up +to 10 gallons. This diazo liquor will keep for some days, but it +decomposes in time, so that it should not be kept too long. + +Another liquor is made by dissolving 4 lb. acetate of soda in 11 quarts +of water. + +The developing bath is made by taking 4 gallons of the diazo liquor and +1 gallon of the acetate liquor and mixing together, and in this bath the +prepared yarn, 2 lb. at a time, is worked. The colour develops +immediately. The yarn when dyed is lifted out, wrung, and then it is +well washed with water, soaped in a bath at 120 deg. F., with a liquor +containing 1/2 oz. soap per gallon, then dried. As the cotton yarn is +being passed through the developing bath, the latter is freshened up +from time to time by suitable additions of the diazo and acetate liquors +in the proportions given above. + +Some dyers use a special form of dye vat for dyeing paranitroaniline red +on yarn, whose construction can be seen from Fig. 27. + +[Illustration: FIG. 27.--Dye-tub for Paranitroaniline Red.] + +The beta-naphthol bath does not keep well and in time tends to grow +brown, and when this occurs stains are invariably produced on the +cotton. When the yarn or cloth has been prepared with the beta-naphthol, +and dried, the developing should be immediately proceeded with, for it +is found that by allowing the prepared cotton to lie about it becomes +covered with brown stains, and when such stained cotton is passed +through the developing bath stains and defective dyeing result. + +It has been found that by adding a little tartar emetic to the +beta-naphthol bath this is largely if not entirely prevented, and the +prepared cloth may be kept for a reasonable length of time before +proceeding with the development without fear of stains being formed. + +Various additions have been made from time to time to the naphthol bath. +Some of these take the form of special preparations of the colour +manufacturers, and are sold as naphthol D, naphthol X, red developer C, +etc., sometimes gum tragacanth has been added, at others in place of +Turkey-red oil there is used a soap made from castor oil with soda and +ammonia, but such complicated baths do not yield any better results than +the simple preparing liquor given above. + +[Illustration: FIG. 28.--Padding Machine for Paranitroaniline Red.] + + +=Dyeing Paranitroaniline Red on Piece Goods.= + +The dyeing of this red on to piece goods only differs from that on yarn +by reason of the difference in the form of material that is dealt with. + +1. _Preparing or Grounding._--The same liquor may be used. This +operation is best done on a padding machine, a sketch of which is given +in Fig. 26, showing the course of the cloth through the liquor. This is +contained in the box of the machine, and this is kept full by a constant +stream flowing in from a store vat placed beside the machine. After +going through the liquor, the cloth passes between a pair of squeezing +rollers which squeeze out the surplus liquor. Fig. 28 shows a view of a +padding machine adapted for grounding paranitroaniline reds. After the +padding, the cloth is dried by being sent over a set of drying +cylinders, or through what is known as the hot flue. + +2. _The Developing._--After being dried, the pieces are sent through a +padding machine charged with the developing liquor made as described +above, after which the cloth is rinsed, then soaped, and then washed. +Some dyers use a continuous machine for these operations, such as shown +in Fig. 29. + +While the developing bath used for piece goods may be the same as that +used for yarns, some dyers prefer to use one made somewhat differently, +thus 6-1/4 lb. paranitroaniline are mixed with 7 gallons boiling-water +and 1-1/2 gallons hydrochloric acid; when dissolved 16 gallons of cold +water are added, then, after completely cooling, 3-1/2 lb. sodium +nitrite dissolved in 3 gallons cold water. After twenty minutes, when +the diazotisation is complete, water is added to make the whole up to 40 +gallons. The acetate liquor is made from 13-1/4 lb. acetate of soda in +13-1/2 gallons of water. + +Equal quantities of these two liquors are used in making the developing +bath. + +[Illustration: FIG. 29--Developing Machine for Paranitroaniline Red.] + +Of late years, under the names of Azophor red P N, Nitrazol C, +Nitrosamine, etc., there has been offered to dyers preparations of +diazotised paranitroaniline in the form of a powder or paste, readily +soluble in water, that will keep in a cool and dry place for any +reasonable length of time. These are prepared in various ways, and to +any dyer who does not want the trouble of diazotising the +paranitroaniline they offer some advantages. They produce a red equal in +every respect to that obtained from paranitroaniline. The following +details show the method to be followed with some of these products, +others are very similar to make the developing baths. + +_Paranitroaniline Red with Nitrazol C._--Dissolve 25 lb. Nitrazol C in +12 gallons of cold water with constant stirring, then add sufficient +cold water to make 37 gallons. In another vessel dissolve 11 lb. of +acetate of soda in 5-1/2 gallons water, then add 1-1/2 gallons caustic +soda, 36 deg. Tw., mixed with 5-1/2 gallons water. The developing bath is +made by mixing both these solutions. It will suffice for both yarn and +piece goods. + +_Paranitroaniline Red with Azophor Red P N._--Dissolve 5-1/2 lb. of +Azophor red P N in 4 gallons of water--it dissolves almost completely +but usually a few particles of a flocculent character remain +undissolved, these can be removed; 2-1/4 gallons of caustic soda lye of +36 deg. Tw. are diluted with water to 10 gallons, and this is added with +constant stirring to the azophor red P N solution. When all is mixed and +a clear solution obtained, the developing bath is ready for use, and is +used in the same way as the paranitroaniline bath. + +_Metanitroaniline Orange._--This orange is produced in the same way as +the paranitroaniline red, using metanitroaniline or Azophor orange M N +in place of the paranitroaniline or the Azophor red P N given for the +red. The quantities of all the materials used are identical. + +_Nitrosamine Red._--Dissolve 5 lb. Nitrosamine red in 5 gallons of water +and 2-1/4 lb. hydrochloric acid, when well mixed there is added 2-1/2 +lb. acetate of soda, when all is dissolved add sufficient water to make +6-1/2 gallons. This bath is used exactly in the same way as the +paranitroaniline developing bath, and it produces identical results in +every way. + +_Paranitroaniline Brown._--By boiling the paranitroaniline red dyed +cotton in a weak bath of copper sulphate a very fine fast brown +resembling a cutch brown is produced. A better plan, however, is to +prepare the cotton with a ground containing an alkaline solution of +copper, 3 lb. beta-naphthol are dissolved in 5 pints of caustic soda lye +of 36 deg. Tw., to which is added 5 lb. Turkey-red oil and 10 pints alkaline +copper solution, water being added to make 13 gallons of liquor. The +cotton is treated in this way as with the ordinary beta-naphthol +preparation. The alkaline copper solution is made by taking 5 pints of +copper chloride solution at 76 deg. Tw., adding 3-1/4 lb. tartaric acid, 6 +pints caustic soda lye, 70 deg. Tw., and 2 pints of glycerine. The +developing bath for the brown is the same as for the paranitroaniline +red, or the Azophor red P N bath may be used. + +_Toluidine Orange._--For this colour the cotton is prepared with the +beta-naphthol in the ordinary way. The developing bath is made from 2 +lb. orthonitrotoluidine mixed with 12 pints boiling water and 2-1/4 +pints hydrochloric acid; when dissolved allow to cool and then add +12-1/2 lb. ice. When thoroughly cold stir in 2-1/2 pints of sodium +nitrite solution containing 3 lb. per gallon. Stir well for twenty +minutes, then filter; add 4 lb. sodium acetate and sufficient ice-cold +water to make 13 gallons. Use this bath in the same way as the +paranitroaniline bath. + +_Beta-naphthylamine Red._--This red is a good one, but is not so bright +or so fast as the paranitroaniline red, hence although somewhat older in +point of time it is not dyed to the same extent. The developing bath is +made from 1-3/4 lb. beta-naphthylamine dissolved with the aid of 10 +pints boiling water and 1 pint hydrochloric acid. When dissolved allow +to cool; add 27 lb. ice and 2 pints hydrochloric acid. When cooled to +32 deg. to 36 deg. Tw., add 3 pints sodium nitrite solution (3 lb. per gallon) +and 4 lb. sodium acetate, making up to 13 gallons with water. This also +is used in precisely the same way as the paranitroaniline red developing +liquor. + +_Alpha-Naphthylamine Claret._--This is a very fine and fairly fast red, +and next to the paranitroaniline red may be considered the most +important of the naphthol colours. The developing bath is a little more +difficult to make, owing to the fact that it is more difficult to get +the alpha-naphthylamine into solution. The best way of proceeding is the +following: Heat 1-3/4 lb. of alpha-naphthylamine in 10 pints of boiling +water, agitating well until the base is very finely divided in the +water, then 1-1/4 pints of hydrochloric acid is added, and the heat and +stirring continued until the base is dissolved, then the mass is allowed +to cool, 27 lb. of ice is added and 1-1/2 pints of hydrochloric acid. +When cooled down to 32 deg. to 36 deg. F., there is added 3 pints sodium nitrite +solution (3 lb. per gallon), and after allowing the diazotisation to be +completed, 4 lb. sodium acetate and sufficient water to make 13 gallons +of liquor. + +The bath is used in the same manner as the previous developing baths. + +_Dianisidine Blue._--Dianisidine develops with beta-naphthol, a violet +blue, which is not very fast, but by the addition of some copper to the +developing bath a very fine blue is got which has a fair degree of +fastness. The developing bath is made as follows: Mix 10-1/2 oz. +dianisidine with 7 oz. hydrochloric acid and 7-1/2 pints of boiling +water, when complete solution is obtained it is allowed to cool, then 20 +lb. of ice is added. Next 1-3/4 pints of nitrite of soda solution, +containing 1-1/2 lb. per gal. and 2-1/2 pints of cold water. Stir for +thirty minutes, then add 1-1/4 pints copper chloride solution at 72 deg. +Tw., and sufficient water to make up 6-1/2 gallons. + +The cotton is prepared with beta-naphthol in the usual way, and then +passed through this developing bath. + +_Amidoazotoluol Garnet._--Amidoazotoluol produces with beta-naphthol a +fine garnet red in the usual way. + +The developing bath is made from 14 oz. amidoazotoluol, mixed with 1-1/2 +pints of sodium nitrite solution containing 1-1/2 lb. per gallon, when +well mixed add 1 pint of hydrochloric acid diluted with 2 pints water, +when this is well mixed add sufficient water to make up a gallon, then +add 1 lb. acetate of soda. + +The cotton is passed through this dye-bath, then washed well, passed +through a weak acid bath, then soaped well, washed and dried. + + +(8) DYEING COTTON BY IMPREGNATION WITH DYE-STUFF SOLUTION. + +Indigo is a dye-stuff which requires special processes for its +application to the cotton or wool fibre. + +Its peculiarity is that in the form in which it comes to the dyer it is +insoluble in water, and to enable it to be dissolved and therefore to be +used as a dye, the indigo has to go under a special treatment. The +colouring principle of indigo is a body named indigotin, to which the +formula C{16}H{16}N{2}O{2} has been given. When indigo is mixed with +substances like lime and copperas, lime and zinc, zinc and bisulphite of +soda, which cause the evolution of nascent hydrogen, it takes up this +body and passes into another substance which is called indigo white that +has the formula C{16}H{12}N{2}O{2}, leuco, or white indigo; this +substance is soluble in water, and so when it is formed the indigo +passes into solution and can then be used for dyeing. But indigo white +is an unstable substance on exposure to air, the oxygen of the latter +attacks the hydrogen which it has taken up, and indigotin is reformed, +the indigo white changing again into indigo blue. + +Indigo dyeing consists of three operations:-- + + (1) Preparation of the indigo solution, or, as it is called, + setting the dye vat. (2) Steeping the cotton in this vat. (3) + Exposing to the air. + +[Illustration: FIG. 30.--Indigo Dye-vat for Cloth.] + +There are several methods of preparing, or setting the dye vat, and of +each of these modifications are in use in every indigo dye-house:-- + + (1) With lime and copperas. (2) Zinc and lime vat. (3) Zinc and + bisulphite of soda. + +In all cases it is necessary for the indigo to be ground to the form of +a fine paste with water; this is usually done in what is known as the +ball-grinding mill. The finer it is ground the more easy is it to make +the dye-vats. + +The dye-vats may be either round tubs or square wooden tanks; when +cloths or warps are being dyed these may be fitted with winces and guide +rollers, so as to draw the materials through the liquor. In the case of +yarns in hanks these appliances are not necessary. + +Fig. 30 is a sketch of an indigo dye-vat for cloth or warps. + +(1) =Lime and Copperas Vat.=--To prepare this vat take 75 gallons of +water, 4 lb. of indigo, 8 lb. copperas, and 10 lb. of good quicklime. +Put these into the vat in the order shown. The amount of indigo is added +in proportion to the shade which is required to be dyed: for pale +shades, 2 lb. to 3 lb. will be sufficient; while for deep shades, 6 lb. +to 7 lb. may be used. The amount of copperas should be from one and a +half to twice that of the indigo. The vat should be stirred very well +and then left to stand. The changes which occur are probably the +following: The lime acts upon the copperas and produces ferrous +hydrate--this is unstable and tends to take up oxygen and hydrogen from +the water, particularly when there is some indigo present, and forms +ferric hydrate; hydrogen is at the same time liberated, and combines +with the indigo to form the soluble indigo white. It takes about +twenty-four hours to make an indigo vat. When properly made and in good +condition, the liquor will be clear and of a brownish-yellow colour, a +bluish scum may collect on the surface. If the liquor appears at all +greenish it is an indication that the indigo has not been completely +reduced, and the vat needs a further addition of lime and copperas, +which should be of good quality. Too much of each should not be used, +because with them there is formed at the bottom of the vat a sediment of +calcium sulphate and ferric hydrate, and it is not wise to increase this +to too great an extent, which would be the case if too much lime and +copperas were added. + +_To Use this Vat._--Any scum on the surface is raked on one side, the +cotton yarn immersed for a few minutes, then it is taken out, wrung, +allowing the excess liquor to flow back into the vat, and the yarn hung +up in the air for the blue to develop. The depth of shade which is dyed +depends chiefly upon the amount of indigo in the vat, and also upon the +time during which the hanks are dipped in the liquor. Light and medium +shades can be readily and conveniently got by a single dip, but deep +shades are best got by repeating the dipping once or twice as occasion +demands. Deep shades got by using a strong bath at a single dip are +found to rub badly, while by repeated dips the dye gets more into the +substance of the fibre, and therefore the colour is more firmly fixed +and it rubs less. + +Some indigo dyers have quite a range of vats, using those fresh made for +dyeing deep shades, while the old vats being nearly exhausted are used +only for light shades and finally when completely exhausted are thrown +away. After the day's work the vat should be stirred up and then allowed +to stand. If necessary it may be strengthened by the addition of fresh +quantities of indigo, lime and copperas, the next morning it will be +ready for use. Generally a lime-copperas vat will remain in good working +order for about a month, when it will be necessary to throw it away. + +=(2) Zinc and Lime Vat.=--Zinc dust is a bye-product in the process of +zinc extraction. It is a grey, very heavy powder, consisting mostly of +finely divided metallic zinc, with traces of oxide and sulphide of zinc. +Of these only the metallic zinc is active in reducing the indigo, the +rest of the ingredients are not of any consequence. The valuation of +zinc dust is a very difficult operation, but it is desirable that this +be done, as the product is liable to be very variable in the proportion +of actual zinc it contains, and it will pay large buyers always to have +it tested. Zinc dust must always be kept in a dry place. + +For the reduction of zinc powder lime is chiefly used. The following are +two good mixtures. + +Vat with zinc and lime:-- + +10 lb. indigo, dry and ground fine; +5-1/2 lb. zinc dust; +22 lb. slaked lime, dry. + +The vat is set as follows, a part of the lime is mixed with the indigo, +and the two bodies are well mixed together and allowed to stand for ten +minutes, then the zinc powder is added. It is best to make this into a +smooth paste with water before adding it to the other ingredients, then +the rest of the lime is added and the whole is thoroughly stirred +together with the necessary quantity of water. + +Vat with zinc powder, lime and soda:-- + +10 lb. indigo, dry and ground fine; +10 lb. zinc powder; +10 lb. slaked lime, dry; +35 lb. caustic soda at 11 deg. Tw. + +Add the lime to the ground indigo, then add the zinc and finally the +soda lye. + +Soon after the various ingredients of the vats are added together the +whole mass becomes hot, when it must be well stirred. It soon begins to +evolve gas and the mixture froths. In from two to four hours the +evolution of gas ceases. The dark blue solution now becomes yellow and +the liquor shows all the characteristics of the indigo vat. It is +necessary to keep the vat well stirred up during the time of setting, +which takes from five to six hours. If there is much evolution of gas +after this time it indicates that too much zinc powder has been added; +this is a common fault with dyers, and such excess causes the vat to be +too much disturbed and to work dirty. A lime-zinc vat, with occasional +additions of new materials, keeps good for three months, and even then +is in a better condition than the copperas vat. + +This vat is used in precisely the same way as the copperas vat; as it +contains no sediment, or but little, it works cleaner than the copperas +vat and as a rule the indigo blues dyed in it are faster to rubbing. + +After a day's work it can be well stirred up and fresh additions of +lime, zinc and indigo made to bring it up to its original dyeing +strength. + +=(3) Zinc-Bisulphite Indigo Vat.=--When zinc dust and bisulphite of soda +are mixed together a reaction sets in, the zinc dissolves, and there is +formed sodium hydrosulphite and zinc and sodium sulphites. If now indigo +is mixed with this solution the sodium hydrosulphite exerts a reducing +action on it, forming white indigo and sodium sulphite, a perfectly +clear solution being obtained, which may be used in dyeing cotton or +wool. + +With this vat it is customary to prepare a strong stock solution of +reduced indigo, and to add this to the dyeing vats as may be required. + +_To Make the Stock Liquor._--Take 20 lb. of indigo, grind into a paste +with 20 gallons of boiled water, then add 25 lb. lime slaked into a +milk. In a separate tub there is mixed 80 lb. bisulphite of soda, 70 deg. +Tw., with 9 lb. zinc dust; this mixture is well stirred and every care +taken to prevent it getting hot. When the zinc has dissolved and the +mixture is free from any sulphurous smell it is run into the indigo +mixture given above. The whole is well stirred together for some time, +and then at intervals, until the indigo has become dissolved, sufficient +water is added to make up 50 gallons, when the stock liquor will be +ready. It should have a deep yellow colour. The surface may have a scum +of a bronzy colour collect on it. This stock liquor should be kept in +casks free from exposure to the air. + +To make the working vat from this stock liquor the following is the +method of proceeding:-- + +Water is run into the vat, and this is heated from 70 deg. to 80 deg. C. in +order to expel air from it, after which it may be allowed to cool, then +for each 1,000 gallons contained in the vat there is added 30 lb. +bisulphite of soda, 3 lb. zinc dust and 3 lb. lime, made into a cream. +When all these ingredients are dissolved a quantity of the stock liquor +is added in proportion to the shade that it is desired to dye. The whole +is well stirred, then the vat is allowed to rest for half an hour to +enable any sediment to settle, and then the dyeing is proceeded with. + +Should the vat show signs of becoming green in colour it is a good plan +to add a mixture of 1 lb. zinc dust and 10 lb. bisulphite of soda. The +vat should be kept alkaline, and so a little lime may be added from time +to time. + +After a day's work it is well to add a little of the zinc and bisulphite +mixture, to stir well and allow to stand overnight; the next morning +strengthen up the vat by adding fresh stock liquor. + +In place of using lime in making up the vat it is possible to use a +mixture of caustic soda and ammonia. The lime will tend to cause some +sediment to form in the vat, whereas the soda and ammonia will not. When +they are used the following mode of working may be followed:-- + +_Stock Liquor._--Soda zinc vat: Put in a tub 26 gallons cold water, 15 +lb. zinc powder ground into a paste with 6 gallons water, then stir in 8 +gallons bisulphite of soda at 60 deg. Tw., stir well, keeping the heat down +as much as possible, after which add 8 pints caustic soda lye at 70 deg. Tw. +and 14 pints 20 per cent. liquor ammonia. When all is thoroughly mixed +add 30 lb. indigo, ground into a paste with 7 gallons water, allow to +stand for half an hour, then add water to make 100 gallons, stir at +intervals for twelve hours or so, when the stock liquor will be ready +for use. + +This is used to make the vat in the same way as the first above +described. It is needful before adding the stock liquor in making a vat +to destroy any oxygen or air which is present in the vat. This may most +conveniently be done by adding thereto a solution of hydrosulphite of +soda, which may be made by mixing 4-1/2 lb. zinc dust with 5 gallons of +water and 3 gallons bisulphite of soda at 70 deg. Tw., stirring well, so +that the temperature does not rise too high, there is then added 2 pints +caustic soda and 3 pints liquor ammonia, 20 per cent.; when all is +dissolved, water is added to make up 13 gallons. + +Should the vat show signs of becoming charged with indigo, indicated by +its becoming of a green colour, a little of this hydrosulphite added +from time to time will correct it. + +The hydrosulphite-indigo vat made by either of the two methods indicated +above works well, and with due care may be kept in work for months. It +gives good shades of indigo, although some dyers consider that these +have not the rich bronze hue got from the lime and copperas vat. The +shades are rather faster to rubbing. + +It has been proposed to employ the dye-stuff indophenol in conjunction +with indigo, in which case the method of making the vat is with zinc, +bisulphite of soda, caustic soda and ammonia as last described, only in +place of using all indigo a mixture of 22 lb. indigo and 7-1/2 lb. +indophenol is used. Good blue shades of considerable fastness can thus +be got. + +_Aniline Black._--This black is produced direct upon the cotton fibre by +various processes which entail the oxidation of aniline. The chemical +composition and constitution of aniline black has not yet been worked +out. It is not by any means an easy colour to dye, but still with +careful attention to carrying out the various operations in detail +excellent results can be attained. + +Aniline black is the fastest black which is known, it resists when well +dyed exposure to air and light, is quite fast to washing and soaping. +Its disadvantages are that there is, with some methods of working, a +tendency to tender the cotton fibre, making it tear easily; secondly, on +exposure to air it tends to turn green, this however only happens when +the black has not been dyed properly. + +At the present day it is perhaps without doubt the most used of all +blacks. The methods for producing it are many and varied, the following +recipes show how some of the finest aniline blacks can be dyed:-- + +Ungreenable black is formed when the aniline is by the action of the +oxidising agents converted into a substance named nigraniline. This +compound when formed will not turn green on the fibre under the +influence of acids. + +1. The most usual oxidising agent employed for dyeing aniline black is +bichromate of soda, which salt will be found much better for all +purposes than bichromate of potash. Two separate solutions are prepared: +(1) 61 lb. aniline, 9 lb. hydrochloric acid and 10 gallons of water; and +(2) 12 lb. bichromate of soda and 20 gallons of water. After cooling, +equal quantities of these solutions are mixed and the cotton worked +rapidly through the mixture, in a few minutes it assumes a bronze black. +The material is then wrung out and steamed for twenty minutes at 3-1/2 +lb. pressure, which process renders it jet black and also ungreenable. + +2. Another aniline black: For 100 lb. cotton use 11 lb. aniline oil, 15 +lb. bichromate of soda, 40 lb. hydrochloric acid and 160 gallons water +or 12 lb. sulphuric acid. The dye-bath is filled with the water and the +cold solution of aniline oil and a part of the hydrochloric acid in +water is first added, afterwards the bichromate is dissolved in a small +quantity of water, working cold at first and gradually rising to the +boil. + +3. Another method is the following and gives a black that is fast and +ungreenable and will not rub: 10 lb. chlorate of soda, 10 lb. ammonium +chloride, 10 lb. copper sulphate, 35 lb. aniline salt, 101 lb. aniline +oil and 20 gallons water. The sodium chlorate and ammonium chloride are +dissolved in 6-1/2 gallons and the copper sulphate separately in 5-1/2 +gallons water. The aniline salt is dissolved in as little hot water as +possible and neutralised with a small amount of aniline oil (10 lb.). +The solution of aniline salt is first added to the bath, then the sodium +chlorate and ammonium chloride, and lastly the copper sulphate, dilute +the whole to 14 deg. Tw. and then enter the goods. Next steam, then run +through a solution containing 10 lb. bichromate and 5 lb. soda per 100 +gallons water at 160 deg. F., after which the goods are washed and dry +steamed at 15 lb. pressure. + +4. A very good black is the prussiate or steam aniline black whose +cheapness should recommend it. Prepare concentrated solutions of 1-3/4 +lb. aniline salt in 1 gallon water, 1-1/2 lb. ferrocyanide of potash in +3/4 gallons water and 1-1/2 lb. potassium chlorate in 1-1/2 gallons +water. Mix the solutions and work in a jigger, then steam in a Mather & +Platt apparatus for two minutes, then work hot in a jigger in a solution +of 2 lb. bichromate per 50 gallons water, dry and finish. + +Either of these methods yields a good full black; with a little +experience and care perfectly uniform shades will be got. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +DYEING UNION (MIXED COTTON AND WOOL) FABRICS. + + +There is now produced a great variety of textile fabrics of every +conceivable texture by combining the two fibres, cotton and wool, in a +number of ways; the variety of these fabrics has of late years +considerably increased, which increase may be largely ascribed to the +introduction of the direct dyeing colouring matters--the Diamine dyes, +the Benzo dyes, the Congo and the Zambesi dyes, for in the dyeing of +wool-cotton fabrics they have made a revolution. The dyer of union +fabrics, that is, fabrics composed of wool and cotton, was formerly put +to great straits to obtain uniform shades on the fabrics supplied to +him, owing to the difference in the affinity of the two fibres for the +dye-stuffs then known. Now the direct dyes afford him a means of easily +dyeing a piece of cotton-wool cloth in any colour of a uniform shade, +while the production of two coloured effects is much more under his +control, and has led to the increased production of figured-dress +fabrics, with the ground in one fibre (wool) and colour, and the design +in another fibre (cotton) and colour. The number of direct dyes issued +by the various colour manufacturers is so great that it would take a +fairly considerable space to discuss them all. + +To obtain good results it is needful that the dyer of union fabrics +should have a thorough knowledge of the dyes he is using, for each dye +makes a rule to itself as regards its power of dyeing wool and +cotton--some go better on to the cotton than on to the wool, and _vice +versa_. Some dye wool best at the boil, others equally well below that +heat; some go on the cotton at a moderate temperature, others require +the dye-bath to be boiling; some will go on to the cotton only, and +appear to ignore the wool. + +The presence or absence in the dye-bath of such bodies as carbonate of +soda, Glauber's salt, etc., has a material influence on the degree of +the affinity of the dye-stuff for the two fibres, as will perhaps be +noted hereafter. Again, while some of the dyes produce equal colours on +both fibres, there are others where the tone is different. With all +these peculiarities of the Diamine and other direct dyes the union dyer +must make himself familiar. These dyes are used in neutral baths, that +is, along with the dye-stuff. It is often convenient to use, along with +the direct dyes, some azo or acid dyes, which have the property of +dyeing the wool from neutral baths, many examples of such will be found +in the practical recipes given below. The dyes now under consideration +may be conveniently classed into five groups. + +1. Those dyes which dye the cotton and wool from the same bath to the +same shade, or nearly so. Among such are Thioflavine S, Diamine fast +yellow B, Diamine orange B, Diamine rose B D, Diamine reds 4 B, 5 B, 6 B +and 10 B, Diamine fast red F, Diamine Bordeaux B, Diamine brown N, +Diamine browns 3 G, B and G, Diamine blues R W, B X, Diamine blue G, +Diamine greens G and B, Diamine black H W, Diamine dark blue B, Union +blacks B and S, Oxydiamine blacks B, M, D and A, Diamine catechine G, +Union blue B B, Oxyphenine, Chloramine yellow, Alkali yellow R, Chromine +G, Titan scarlet S, Mimosa, Curcumine, Primuline, Auroline, Congo +Corinth B, Thiazole yellow, Columbia yellow, Oxydiamine yellow G G, +Oxydiamine oranges G and R, Diamine orange F, Oxydiamine red S. + +2. Dyes which dye the cotton a deeper shade than the wool. The +following belong to this group: Diamine fast yellow A, Diamine oranges G +and D, Diamine catechine G, Diamine catechine B, Diamine sky blue, +Diamine blue 2 B, Diamine blue 8 B, Diamine blue B G, Diamine brilliant +blue G, Diamine new blue R, Diamine steel blue L, Diamine black R O, +Diamine black B 0, Diamine black B H, and Oxydiamine black S O O O, +Diamine nitrazol brown G, Diamine sky blue F F, Diamine dark blue B, +Diamine Bordeaux B, Diamine violet N, Oxydiamine violet B, Columbia +blacks B and F B, Zambesi black B, Congo brown G, Direct yellow G, +Direct orange B, Clayton yellow, Cotton yellow, orange T A, Benzo +purpurine B, Brilliant Congo R, Chicago blues B and 4 B and 6 B. + +3. Dyes which dye wool a deeper shade than the cotton. The dyes in this +group are not numerous. They are Diamine gold, Diamine scarlet B, +Diamine scarlet 3 B, Diamine Bordeaux S, Diamine blue R W, and Diamine +green G, Diamine reds N 0 and B, Chicago blues G and R, Brilliant +purpurine R, Diamine scarlet B, Delta purpurine 5 B, Chrysamine, Titan +blue, Titan pink, Congo oranges G and R, Erie blue 2 G, Congo R, +Brilliant Congo R, Erika B N, Benzo purpurines 4 B and 10 B, +Chrysophenine, Titan yellow, Titan browns Y, R and O, Congo brown G, +Sulphon azurine B, Zambesi black B. + +4. Dyes which produce different shades on the two fibres. Diamine brown +G, and Diamine blue 3 R, Diamine brown V, Diamine brown S, Diamine +nitrazol brown B, Diamine blues B X and 3 R, Diamine blue black E, Benzo +blue black G, Benzo purpurine 10 B, Benzo azurines R, G and 3 G, +Columbia red S, Brilliant azurine 5 G, Titan marine blue, Congo Corinths +G and B, Azo blue, Hessian violet, Titan blue, Azo mauve, Congo brown, +Diamine bronze G, Zambesi browns G and 2 G, Zambesi black F. + +5. Azo-acid dyes, which dye wool from neutral baths, and are therefore +suitable for shading up the wool to the cotton in union fabric dyeing. +Among the dyes thus available may be enumerated: Naphthol blues G and R, +Naphthol blue black, Formyl violet 10 B, Lanacyl blue B B, Lanacyl blue +R, Alkaline blue, Formyl violets S 4 B and 6 B, Rocceleine, Azo red A, +Croceine A Z, Brilliant scarlet, Orange extra, Orange E N Z, Indian +yellow G, Indian yellow R, Tropaeoline O O, Naphthylamine black 4 B and +Naphthol blue black, Brilliant scarlet G, Lanacyl violet B, Brilliant +milling green B, Thiocarmine R, Formyl blue B, Naphthylamine blacks D, 4 +B and 6 B; Azo-acid yellow, Curcumine extra, Mandarine G, Ponceau 3 R B, +Acid violet 6 B, Guinea violet 4 B, Guinea green B, Wool black 6 B. + +Regarding the best methods of dyeing, that in neutral baths yields the +most satisfactory results in practical working. It is done in a boiling +hot or in a slightly boiling bath, with the addition of 6-1/4 oz. +crystallised Glauber's salt per gallon water for the first bath, and +when the baths are kept standing 20 per cent. crystallised Glauber's +salt, reckoned upon the weight of the goods, for each succeeding lot. + +In dyeing unions, the dye-baths must be as concentrated as possible, and +must not contain more than from 25 to 30 times as much water as the +goods weigh. In this respect it may serve as a guide that concentrated +baths are best used when dyeing dark shades, while light shades can be +dyed in more diluted baths. The most important factor for producing +uniform dyeings is the appropriate regulation of the temperature of the +dye-bath. Concerning this, the dyer must bear in mind that the direct +colours possess a greater affinity for the cotton if dyed below the +boiling point, and only go on the wool when the bath is boiling, +especially so the longer and more intensely the goods are boiled. + +The following method of dyeing is perhaps the best one: Charge the +dye-bath with the requisite dye-stuff and Glauber's salt, boil up, shut +off the steam, enter the goods and let run for half an hour without +steam, then sample. If the shade of both cotton and wool is too light +add some more of the dye-stuffs used for both fibres, boil up once more +and boil for a quarter to half an hour. If the wool only is too light, +or its shade different from that of the cotton, add some more of the +dye-stuff used for shading the wool and bring them again to the boil. +If, however, the cotton turns out too light, or does not correspond in +shade to the wool, add some more of the dye-stuffs used for dyeing the +cotton, without, however, raising the temperature. Prolonged boiling is +only necessary very rarely, and generally only if the goods to be dyed +are difficult to penetrate, or contain qualities of wool which only with +difficulty take up the dye-stuff. In such cases, in making up the bath +dye-stuffs are to be selected some of which go only on the wool and +others which go only on the cotton (those belonging to the second +group). + +The goods can then be boiled for some time, and perfect penetration and +level shades will result. If the wool takes up the dye-stuff easily (as +is frequently the case with goods manufactured from shoddy), and are +therefore dyed too dark a shade, then dye-stuffs have to be used which +principally dye the cotton, and a too high temperature should be +avoided. In such cases it is advisable to diminish the affinity of the +wool by the addition of one-fifth of the original quantity of Glauber's +salt (about 3/8 oz. per gallon water), and from three-quarters to +four-fifths of the dye-stuff used for the first lot. Care has to be +taken that not much of the dye liquor is lost when taking out the dyed +goods, otherwise the quantities of Glauber's salt and dye-stuff will +have to be increased proportionately. Wooden vats, such as are generally +used for piece dyeing, have proved the most suitable. They are heated +with direct, or, still better, with indirect steam. The method which has +proved most advantageous is to let the steam run into a space separated +from the vat by a perforated wall, into which space the required +dye-stuffs and salt are placed. + +The mode of working is rather influenced by the character of the goods, +and the following notes will be found useful by the union dyer:-- + +Very little difficulty will be met with in dyeing such light fabrics as +Italians, cashmere, serges and similar thin textiles lightly woven from +cotton warp and woollen weft. When deep shades (blacks, dark blues, +browns and greens), are being dyed it is not advisable to make up the +dye-bath with the whole of the dyes at once. It is much better to add +these in quantities of about one-fourth at a time at intervals during +the dyeing of the piece. It is found that the affinity of the wool for +the dyes at the boil is so much greater than is that of the cotton that +it would, if the whole of the dye were used, take up too much of the +colour, and then would come up too deep in shade. Never give a strong +boil with such fabrics, but keep the bath just under the boil, which +results in the wool dyeing much more nearly like to cotton. + +_Bright Yellow._--Use 2 lb. Thioflavine S in a bath which contains 4 lb. +Glauber's salt per 10 gallons of dye liquor. + +_Good Yellow._--A very fine deep shade is dyed with 2-1/2 lb. Diamine +gold and 2-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, in the same way as the last. +Here advantage is taken of the fact that while the Diamine gold dyes the +wool better than the cotton, the yellow dyes the cotton the deeper +shade, and between the two a uniform shade of yellow is got. + +_Pale Gold Yellow._--Use a dye liquor containing 4 lb. Glauber's salt in +every 10 gallons, 2-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, 2 oz. Indian yellow G +and 3-1/2 oz. Indian yellow R. In this recipe there is used in the two +last dyes purely wool yellows, which dye the wool the same tint as the +fast yellow A dyes the cotton. + +_Bright Yellow._--Use in the same way as the last, 2-1/2 lb. Diamine +fast yellow B and 3 oz. Indian yellow G. + +_Gold Orange._--Use as above 2 lb. Diamine orange G, 5-1/2 oz. Indian +yellow K and 1-1/2 oz. Orange E N Z. + +_Deep Orange._--Use 2-1/2 lb. Diamine orange D C, 6-1/2 oz. Orange E N +Z, and 3-1/4 oz. Indian yellow R. + +_Black._--Use 4-1/2 lb. Union black S, 2 oz. Diamine fast yellow A, 5 +oz. Naphthol blue black and 3-1/4 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B, with 4 lb. +Glauber's salt in each 10 gallons dye liquor. + +_Navy Blue._--Use 1-1/4 lb. Union black S, 3 lb. Diamine black B H, 1/2 +oz. Naphthol blue black, 1/2 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B and 2-1/2 oz. +alkaline blue B. + +_Red Plum._--Use a dye-bath containing 2-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine violet B and +3-1/4 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B. + +_Dark Green._--A fine shade can be dyed in a bath containing 3 lb. +Diamine green B and 1-1/2 lb. Diamine black H W. + +_Dark Slate._--Use 4 lb. Diamine black H W, 2 oz. Naphthol blue black +and 3 oz. Azo red A. + +_Sage._--Use a dye-bath containing 4 lb. Diamine bronze G and 1-1/4 oz. +Naphthol blue black. + +_Dark Brown._--A fine dark shade is got from 2-1/2 lb. Diamine brown V +and 2 oz. Naphthol blue black. + +_Peacock Green._--Use 3-3/4 lb. Diamine steel blue L, 13 oz. Diamine +fast yellow B, 14-1/2 oz. Thiocarmine K and 2-1/4 oz. Indian yellow G in +a bath of 4 lb. Glauber's salt per gallon dye liquor. + +_Dark Sea Green._--Use 9 oz. Diamine steel blue L, 3-3/4 oz. Diamine +fast yellow B, 1/2 oz. Diamine orange G, 1-1/4 oz. Naphthol blue black +and 3/4 oz. Indian yellow G. + +_Dark Brown._--Use 1 lb. Diamine orange B, 1 lb. Diamine Fast yellow S, +13-3/4 oz. Union black S, 1 lb. Diamine brown M and 1/2 lb. Indian +yellow G. Fix in an alum bath after dyeing. + +_Dark Stone._--Use 1/2 lb. Diamine orange B, 3-3/4 oz. Union black, 1/4 +oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, 1-1/2 oz. Azo red A and 3/4 oz. Naphthol blue +black. + +_Black._--A very fine black can be got from 3-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B +M, 2 lb. Union black S, 9-1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black and 4 oz. Formyl +violet S 4 B. + +_Dark Grey._--A fine bluish shade of grey is got from 7 oz. Diamine +black B H, 2-1/4 oz. Diamine orange G, 2-1/2 oz. Diamine orange G, 2-1/2 +oz. Naphthol blue black and 1 oz. Orange E N Z. + +_Dark Blue._--A fine shade is got by using 2 lb. Diamine black B H, 1/2 +lb. Diamine black H W, and 3-1/2 oz. Alkaline blue 6 B. + +_Drab._--Use 3-1/2 oz. Diamine orange B, 3/4 oz. Union black, 1/8 oz. +Diamine Bordeaux B, 3/4 oz. Azo red A and 1/4 oz. Naphthol blue black. + +_Plum._--Use 2-1/2 lb. Diamine violet N, 9-1/2 oz. Union black and 1 lb. +Formyl violet S 4 B. + +_Bright Yellow._--Use a dye-bath containing 4 lb. Thioflavine S, 2 lb. +Naphthol yellow S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. acetic acid. + +_Pink._--Use 1/6 oz. Diamine Rose B D, 1/4 oz. Diamine scarlet B, 1/2 +oz. Rhodamine B and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Scarlet._--A fine shade is got from 1-1/2 lb. Diamine scarlet B, 1/2 +oz. Diamine red 5 B and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Orange._--Use a dye-bath containing 3-1/2 lb. Diamine orange G, 14-1/2 +oz. Tropaeoline O O, and 2-3/4 oz. Orange extra. + +_Sky Blue._--Use 1-1/2 oz. Diamine sky blue and 1-1/4 oz. Alkaline blue +B. + +_Bright Blue._--A fine shade similar to that formerly known as royal +blue is got by using 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brilliant blue G and 9-1/4 oz. +Alkaline blue 6 B. + +_Maroon._--Use 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux B, 2 lb. Diamine violet N and +3-1/4 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B. + +_Green._--A fine green similar in shade to that used for billiard-table +cloth is got from 2 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 2 lb. Diamine steel blue +L, 14-1/2 oz. Thiocarmine R and 7-1/4 oz. Indian yellow G. + +_Gold Brown_--A fine brown is got from 3 lb. Diamine orange B, 1/2 lb. +Union black, 2-1/2 oz. Diamine brown, 3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black and +1/2 lb. Indian yellow G. + +_Navy Blue._--Use 3-1/4 lb. Diamine black B H, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine +brilliant blue G and 1/2 lb. Alkaline blue. + +_Fawn Drab._--A fine shade is got by dyeing in a bath containing 6-3/4 +oz. Diamine orange B, 1-3/4 lb. Union black, 1/4 oz. Naphthol blue +black, 1/4 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B and 1 oz. Azo red A. + +In all these colours the dye-baths contain Glauber's salt at the rate of +4 lb. per 10 gallons. + +_Dark Brown._--2-1/2 lb. Diamine orange B, 13 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, +1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 1-3/4 lb. Union black and 3-1/2 oz. +Naphthol black. + +_Drab._--1-3/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow R, 3-1/4 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, +2-1/2 oz. Union black, 1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black and 1-1/4 oz. Indian +yellow G. + +_Dark Blue._--Use in the dye-bath 4-1/4 lb. Diamine dark blue B, 1-1/2 +lb. Diamine brilliant blue G, 3/4 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B and 5 oz. +Naphthol blue black. + +_Blue Black-_--Use 3-1/2 lb. Union black S, 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B +M, 6-1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black and 1/4 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B. + +_Dark Walnut._--2-3/4 lb. Diamine brown M, 1-1/2 lb. Union black S, and +11-1/4 oz. Indian yellow G. + +_Peacock Green._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine black H W, 5-1/6 oz. +Diamine fast yellow B, 1-1/4 lb. Thiocarmine R and 1-1/6 oz. Indian +yellow G. + +_Slate Blue._--Use in the dye-bath 6-1/2 oz. Diamine carechine B, 4-3/4 +oz. Diamine orange B, 2-1/2 oz. Union black, 2-3/4 oz. Orange E N Z, and +1-3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black. + +_Dark Sage._--A good shade is dyed with 1 lb. Diamine orange B, 6-1/2 +oz. Union black, 1-3/4 oz. Diamine brown M, 3-1/4 oz. azo red A and +2-1/4 oz. Naphthol blue black. + +_Navy Blue._--Use 2 lb. Diamine dark blue B, 1-1/4 lb. Lanacyl violet B, +and 7 oz. Naphthol blue black. + +_Bronze Green._--A good shade is dyed with 2 lb. Diamine orange B, 5 oz. +Diamine brown N, 3/4 lb. Union black S, 1 lb. Indian yellow G and 2-1/2 +oz. Naphthol blue black. + +_Black._--Use 2-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B M and 1-1/2 lb. +Naphthylamine black 6 B. Another recipe, 2-1/4 lb. Oxydiamine black B M, +1 lb. Diamine brown M, 1 lb. Orange E N Z and 2 oz. Naphthol blue black. + +_Dark Brown._--Use 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B M, 15-1/2 oz. Diamine +brown M, 1-3/4 lb. Indian yellow G and 2-3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black. +Another combination, 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B M, 1-1/2 lb. Orange E +N Z, 1 lb. Indian yellow G and 5 oz. Naphthol blue black. + +_Scarlet._--3 lb. Benzo purpurine 4 B, 3/4 oz. Ponceau 3 R B and 1/2 lb. +Curcumine S. + +_Crimson._--1/2 lb. Congo Corinth G, 2 lb. Benzo purpurine 10 B and 1/2 +lb. Curcumine S. + +_Bright Blue._--2 lb. Chicago blue 6 B, 3 oz. Alkali blue 6 B, 1-1/2 oz. +Zambesi blue R X. After dyeing rinse and develop in a bath of 8 oz. +sulphuric acid in 10 gallons of water, then rinse well. + +_Dark Blue._--2-1/2 lb. Columbia fast blue 2 G, 3 oz. Sulphon azurine D, +8 oz. Alkali blue 6 B. After dyeing rinse and develop in a bath of 8 oz. +sulphuric acid in 20 gallons of water. + +_Orange._--9 oz. Congo brown G, 1-1/2 lb. Mikado orange 4 R O and 1-1/2 +oz. Mandarine G. + +_Dark Green._--2 lb. Columbia green, 1/2 lb. Sulphon azurine D, 1 lb. +Zambesi blue B X, 1-1/2 oz. Curcumine S. + +_Black._--4 lb. Columbia black F B and 2 lb. Wool black 6 B. + +_Pale Sage Green._--5 oz. Zambesi black D, 3/4 lb. Chrysophenine G and +1-1/2 lb. Curcumine S. + +_Slate._--1/2 lb. Zambesi black D, 3/4 oz. Zambesi blue R X, 1/2 oz. +Mikado orange 4 R 0 and 1-1/2 oz. Acid violet 6 B. + +_Dark Grey._--1 lb. Columbia black F B, 3 oz. Zambesi black B and 3/4 +oz. Sulphon azurine D. + +_Drab._--1-1/2 oz. Zambesi black D, 3/4 oz. Mandarine G extra, 1/4 oz. +Curcumine extra and 3 oz. Mikado orange 4 R O. + +_Brown._--5 oz. Zambesi black D, 3/4 oz. Mandarine G extra, 1-1/2 oz. +Orange T A and 2 oz. Mikado orange 4 R 0. + +_Nut Brown._--3/4 lb. Congo brown G, 1/4 lb. Chicago blue R W and 3/4 +lb. Mikado orange 4 R 0. + +_Dark Brown._--1 lb. Congo brown G, 1-1/2 lb. Benzo purpurine 4 B, 1-1/2 +lb. Zambesi black F and 1/2 lb. Wool black 6 B. + +_Stone._--1 oz. Zambesi black D, 1/4 oz. Mandarine G, 1/4 oz. Curcumine +extra and 1-1/4 oz. Mikado orange 4 R 0. + +_Slate Green._--3 oz. Zambesi black D, 1-1/2 oz. Guinea green B. + +_Sage Brown._--1/2 lb. Zambesi black D, 1-1/2 oz. Mandarine G extra, 3 +oz. Curcumine extra, 3 oz. Acid violet 6 B, 6 oz. Mikado orange 4 R 0 +and 4-1/2 oz. Curcumine S. + +_Cornflower Blue._--3 oz. Chicago blue 4 R, 1/4 lb. Zambesi blue R X, +1/4 lb. Acid violet 6 B and 3/4 oz. Zambesi brown G. + +_Dark Brown._--1-1/2 lb. Brilliant orange G, 1/2 lb. Orange T A, 1 lb. +Columbia black F B and 1/4 lb. Wool black 6 B. + +_Dark Blue._--2 lb. Chicago blue W, 1 lb. Zambesi blue R X, 1/2 lb. +Columbia black F B, 10 oz. Guinea green B and 1/2 lb. Guinea violet 4 B. + +The Janus dyes may be used for the dyeing of half wool (union) fabrics. +The best plan of working is to prepare a bath with 5 lb. of sulphate of +zinc; in this the goods are worked at the boil for five minutes, then +there is added the dyes previously dissolved in water, and the working +continued for a quarter of an hour; there is then added 20 lb. Glauber's +salt, and the working at the boil continued for one hour, at the end of +which time the dye-bath will be fairly well exhausted of colour. The +goods are now taken out and put into a fixing-bath of sumac or tannin, +in which they are treated for fifteen minutes; to this same bath there +is next added tartar emetic and 1 lb. sulphuric acid, and the working +continued for a quarter of an hour, then the bath is heated to 160 deg. F., +when the goods are lifted, rinsed and dried. In the recipes the +quantities of the dyes, sumac or tannin and tartar emetic are given +only, the other ingredients and processes are the same in all. + +_Dark Blue._--2-1/4 lb. Janus dark blue B and 1/4 lb. Janus green B in +the dye-bath, and 16 lb. sumac extract and 2 lb. tartar emetic in the +fixing-bath. + +_Blue Black._--3-1/2 lb. Janus black I and 1/2 lb. Janus black II in the +dye-bath, and 16 lb. sumac extract and 2 lb. tartar emetic in the +fixing-bath. + +_Dark Brown._--2-1/2 lb. Janus brown B, 1 lb. Janus black I, 3-1/2 oz. +Janus yellow G and 5 oz. Janus red B in the dye-bath, with 16 lb. sumac +extract and 2 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath. + +_Drab._--1-1/2 oz. Janus yellow R, 3/4 oz. Janus red B, 1 oz. Janus blue +R and 1/4 oz. Janus grey B B in the dye-bath, and 4 lb. sumac extract +and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath. + +_Grey._--5 oz. Janus blue R, 3-1/4 oz. Janus grey B, 1-1/2 oz. Janus +yellow R and 1/4 oz. Janus red B in the dye-bath, with 4 lb. sumach +extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath. + +_Nut Brown._--1 lb. Janus brown R, 8 oz. Janus yellow R and 1-1/2 oz. +Janus blue B in the dye-bath, and 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar +emetic in the fixing-bath. + +_Walnut Brown._--3 lb. Janus brown B, 1 lb. Janus red B, 1 lb. Janus +yellow R, 1-1/4 oz. Janus green B in the dye-bath, with 8 lb. sumac +extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath. + +_Crimson._--2-1/2 lb. Janus red B and 8 oz. Janus claret red B in the +dye-bath, with 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the +fixing-bath. + +_Dark Green._--1-1/2 lb. Janus green B, 1-1/2 lb. Janus yellow R and 8 +oz. Janus grey B B in the dye-bath, with 12 lb. sumac extract and 1-1/4 +lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath. + +_Chestnut Brown._--1 lb. Janus brown R and 1 lb. Janus yellow R in the +dye-bath, and 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the +fixing-bath. + +Before the introduction of the direct dyes the method usually followed, +and, indeed still used to a great extent, is that known as cross dyeing. +The goods were woven with dyed cotton threads of the required shade, and +undyed woollen threads. After weaving and cleansing the woollen part of +the fabric was dyed with acid dyes, such as Acid magenta, Scarlet R, +Acid yellow, etc. In such methods care has to be taken that the dyes +used for dyeing the cotton are such as stand acids, a by no means easy +condition to fulfil at one time. Many of the direct dyes are fast to +acids and, therefore, lend themselves more or less readily to cross +dyeing. For details of the dyes for cotton reference may be made to the +sections on dyeing with the direct colours, page 85, etc., while +information as to methods of dyeing the wool will be found in the +companion volume to this on _Dyeing of Woollen Fabrics_. + +=Shot Effects.=--A pleasing kind of textile fabric which is now made, +and is a great favourite for ladies' dress goods, is where the cotton of +a mixed fabric is thrown up to form a figured design. It is possible to +dye the two fibres in different colours, and so produce a variety of +shot effects. These latter are so endless that it is impossible here to +enumerate all that may be produced. It will have to suffice to lay down +the lines which may be followed to the best advantage, and then give +some recipes to illustrate the remarks that have been made. The best +plan for the production of shot effects upon union fabrics is to take +advantage of the property of certain acid dyes which dye only the wool +in an acid bath, and of many of the direct colours which will only dye +the cotton in an alkaline bath. The process, working on these lines, +becomes as follows: The wool is first dyed in an acid bath with the +addition of Glauber's salt and bisulphate of soda, or sulphuric acid, +the goods are then washed with water containing a little ammonia to free +them from the acid, and afterwards dyed with the direct colour in an +alkaline bath. + +Fancy or the mode shades are obtained by combining suitable dye-stuffs. + +If the cotton is to be dyed in light shades it is advantageous to dye on +the liquor at 65 deg. to 80 deg. F., with the addition of 3-1/4 oz. Glauber's +salt, and from 20 to 40 grains borax per gallon water. The addition of +an alkali is advisable in order to neutralise any slight quantities of +acid which may have remained in the wool, and to prevent the dye-stuff +from dyeing the cotton too deep a shade. + +Very light shades can also be done on the padding machine. The +dye-stuffs of Group II., which have been previously enumerated, do not +stain the wool at all, or only very slightly, and are, therefore, the +most suitable. Less bright effects can be produced by simply dyeing the +goods in one bath. The wool is first dyed at the boil with the +respective wool dye-stuff in a neutral bath, the steam is then shut off +and the cotton dyed by adding the cotton dye-stuff to the bath, and +dyeing without again heating. By passing the goods through cold water to +which some sulphuric or acetic acid is added, the brightness of most +effects is greatly increased. + +_Gold and Green._--First bath, 1 lb. Cyanole extra, 7-1/4 oz. Acid +green, 1-1/2 oz. Orange G G, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda; work at the +boil for one hour, then lift and rinse well. Second bath, 4 lb. Diamine +orange G and 15 lb. Glauber's salt; work in the cold or at a lukewarm +heat. Third bath, at 120 deg. F., 4 oz. Chrysoidine and 1/4 oz. Safranine. + +_Black and Blue._--First bath, 3-1/2 lb. Naphthol black 3 B and 10 lb. +bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 2 lb. Diamine sky blue and 13 lb. +Glauber's salt. Third bath, 6-1/2 oz. New Methylene blue N. Work as in +the last recipe. + +_Green and Claret._--First bath, 3-1/2 lb. Naphthol red C and 10 lb. +bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 2 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 1-1/4 lb. +Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Gold Brown and Blue._--First bath, 2-1/2 oz. orange E N Z, 1-1/2 oz. +Orange G G, 1/4 oz. Cyanole extra and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second +bath, 14 oz. Diamine sky blue F F and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Dark Brown and Blue._--First bath, 1/2 lb. Orange G G, 1-1/2 oz. Orange +E N Z, 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole extra and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second +bath, 12 oz. Diamine sky blue F F and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Black and Green Blue._--First bath, 3 lb. Orange G G, 1 lb. Brilliant +cochineal 4 R, 1 lb. Fast acid green B N and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. +Second bath, 1-3/4 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 3-1/4 lb. Thioflavine S and +15 lb. Glauber's salt. + +We may here note that in all the above recipes the second bath (for +dying the cotton) should be used cold or at lukewarm heat and as strong +as possible. It is not completely exhausted of colour, only about +one-half going on the fibre. If kept as a standing bath this feature +should be borne in mind, and less dye-stuff used in the dyeing of the +second and following lots of goods. + +_Blue and Gold Yellow._--3 lb. Diamine orange G, 13 oz. Naphthol blue G, +14-1/2 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at just +under the boil. + +_Brown and Blue._--1 lb. Diamine steel blue L, 9-1/2 oz. Diamine sky +blue, 1 lb. Orange E N Z, 1 lb. Indian yellow G, 1-3/4 oz. Naphthol blue +black and 15 lb. Glauber s salt. Work at 170 deg. to 180 deg. F. + +In these two last recipes only one bath is used, all the dyes being +added at once. This is possible if care be taken that dye-stuffs of two +kinds are used, one or more which will dye wool and not cotton from +neutral baths, and those direct dyes which dye cotton better than wool. +The temperature should also be kept below the boil and carefully +regulated as the operation proceeds and the results begin to show +themselves. + +_Grey and Orange._--First bath, 3 oz. Orange extra, 1-1/4 lb. Cyanole +extra, 1 lb. Azo red A and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 5 oz. +Diamine orange D C and 3 oz. Diamine fast yellow B. + +_Green and Red._--First bath, 2 lb. Croceine A Z, and 10 lb. Glauber's +salt. Second bath, 1 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 1/2 lb. Thioflavine S, +and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Brown and Violet._--First bath, 3/4 lb. Orange extra, 3/4 lb. Cyanole +extra, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 5 oz. Diamine +brilliant blue G, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Black and Yellow._--First bath, 7 lb. Naphthol black B, 1/2 lb. Fast +yellow S, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath 3 lb. Diamine fast +yellow A, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Black and Pink._--Black as above. Pink with Diamine rose B D (see +above). + +_Green and Buff._--First bath, 1/4 lb. Orange extra, 3/4 oz. Fast yellow +S, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3/4 lb. Diamine sky blue +F F, 1/2 lb. Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. + +_Orange and Violet._--First bath, 9 oz. Orange extra, and 10 lb. +bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3/4 lb. Diamine violet N, and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt. + +_Black and Blue._--First bath, Naphthol black as given above. Second +bath, Diamine sky blue as given above. + +_Black and Yellow._--Add first 1 lb. Wool black 6 B, and 10 lb. +Glauber's salt, then, when the wool has been dyed, add 2 lb. Curcumine S +to dye the cotton in the same bath. + +_Green and Red._--Dye the wool by using 3 lb. Guinea green B, 1/4 lb. +Curcumeine extra, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then add to the bath 3/4 +lb. Erika B N, and 3/4 lb. Congo Corinth G. + +_Orange and Blue._--Dye the wool first with 1-1/4 lb. Mandarine G, 2 oz. +Wool black 6 B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then the cotton with 2 lb. +Columbia blue G. + +_Blue and Orange._--Dye the wool first with 3/4 lb. Guinea violet B, 3/4 +lb. Guinea green B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then dye the cotton with +2 lb. Mikado orange 4 R O. + +_Green and Orange._--Dye the wool with 3 lb. Guinea green B, 1/4 lb. +Curcumeine extra, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then dye the cotton in the +same bath with 1-1/2 lb. Mikado orange 4 R O. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +DYEING HALF SILK (COTTON-SILK, SATIN) FABRICS. + + +The direct dyes of the Diamine, Benzo and Congo types have been of late +years increasingly used for dyeing satin (silk and cotton), and they +have quite displaced the old methods of dyeing this class of fabrics, +which consisted in first dyeing the silk with an acid dye and then +dyeing the cotton with a basic dye. For details of the method of +applying acid dyes to silk reference may be made to Mr. G.H. Hurst's +book on _Silk Dyeing_. + +Most of the direct colours are exceedingly well adapted for this +purpose, some under certain conditions possess the property of dyeing +the cotton a deeper shade than the silk, which is an advantage rather +than otherwise. + +The dyeing of goods composed of silk and cotton is generally done in +winch dye-vats, in some cases also on the jigger. + + +METHOD OF DYEING. + +The direct colours are as a rule dyed in a soap-bath with addition of +phosphate of soda, Glauber's salt or common salt and a little soda. + +The addition of these salts effects a better exhaustion of the baths; +they are therefore principally used for dark and full shades, whilst +pale shades are dyed with the addition of soap only or in combination +with phosphate of soda. Dark or pale shades may thus be produced at will +by selecting the proper additions, but the fact should not be +overlooked that the greater exhaustion of the baths not only increases +the depth of shade of the cotton but also causes the silk to absorb more +dye-stuff. Too large a proportion of salt would cause the dye-stuffs to +go on the fibre too quickly and thus make the dyeing liable to turn out +uneven. + +A large proportion of soap counteracts the effects of the salts, causing +the dye-stuff to go on less quickly and tending to leave the silk +lighter than the cotton, in some cases even almost white, a property +which is valuable in many cases, especially as enabling the silk and +cotton to be dyed in different colours to obtain shot effects. + +It is thus obvious that a general method applicable in all cases cannot +be given; it will vary according to the effect desired, and partly also +depend on the material to be dyed. + +The following particulars may serve as a guide for the first bath:-- + +For pale shades each 10 gallons dye-liquor should contain 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 +oz. soap and 4 to 7 drs. soda or 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. soap, 4 to 5-1/2 +drs. soda and 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. phosphate of soda. + +For medium and dark shades each 10 gallons dye-liquor may contain 3-1/4 +to 6-1/2 oz. soap, 4 to 7 drs. soda, 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. phosphate of +soda and 6-1/2 to 13 oz. cryst. Glauber's salt. + +For two coloured effects or dyeings, in which the silk is intended to +remain as pale as possible or even white, each 10 gallons dye-liquor may +contain 4-3/4 to 8 oz. soap, 4 to 6 drs. soda, 3-1/4 to 8 oz. phosphate +of soda and 4-3/4 to 9-1/2 oz. cryst. Glauber's salt. + +The temperature of the dye-baths is generally 175 deg. to 195 deg. F.; in +practical dyeing it is usual to boil up the fully charged dye-bath, shut +off the steam, enter the goods and dye for about three-quarters of an +hour. + +For obtaining level dyeings in pale shades it is advisable not to enter +the goods too hot, but to raise the temperature gradually. Raising the +temperature, or dyeing for some time at the boil will deepen the shade +of the cotton, but at the same time will have the same effect on the +silk which may sometimes be an advantage when dyeing dark shades. + +As a complete exhaustion of the baths does not take place, especially +when dyeing dark shades, it is advantageous, nay, even imperative, to +preserve the baths for further use, they are then replenished with only +about three-fourths of the quantities of dye-stuffs used for the first +bath, of the soap only about one fourth, of Glauber's salt, soda and +phosphate of soda only about one-fifth, of the first quantities are +necessary. + +The first bath should be prepared with condensed water. If none is at +hand ordinary water should be boiled up with soda and soap and the scum +removed. Clear soap baths are absolutely necessary for the production of +pure shades and clean pieces. + +After dyeing, the pieces must be very well rinsed, and the colour raised +or brightened with 1 pint of acetic acid in 10 gallons of water. + +Many of the Diamine and Titan colours being very fast to acids, but few +of them will be affected by this treatment. + +In the following tables are given those Diamine, etc., colours +especially adapted for the dyeing of goods composed of silk and cotton, +divided into three groups according to their relation to silk and +cotton:-- + +1. Dye-stuffs possessing a great affinity to cotton and tinting the silk +not at all or only very little. To this class belong Chicago blues, +Benzo blues, Diamine fast yellow A, Diamine orange G G, Diamine orange D +C, Diamine blue B B, Diamine blue 3 B, Diamine sky blue F F, Diamine +brilliant blue G, Diamineral blue E, Diamine black B, Mikado browns, +Mikado oranges, Mikado yellows. + +2. Dye-stuffs producing on cotton and silk the same or nearly the same +shade but covering the cotton better than the silk. These are +Thioflavine S, Diamine yellow N, Diamine gold, Diamine fast yellow B, +Diamine orange B, Diamine grey G, Diamine rose B D, Diamine scarlet S, +Diamine scarlet B, Diamine scarlet 3 B, Diamine red 5 B, Diamine fast +red F, Diamine Bordeaux B, Diamine Bordeaux S, Diamine violet N, +Oxydiamine violet B, Diamine blue R W, Diamine black H W, Diamine steel +blue L, Diamine dark blue B, Union black S, Oxydiamine black D, +Diaminogene extra, Diaminogene B, Diamine brown M, Diamine brown 3 G, +Diamine green B, Diamine green G. + +3. Dye-stuffs producing on cotton more or less different shades than on +silk. This group comprises Diamine blue C B, Diamine blue B G, Diamine +blue B X, Diamine azo blue 2 R, Diamine blue 3 R, Diamine blue black E, +Diamine black R O, Oxydiamine black S O O O, Diamine brown V, Diamine +brown B, Diamine bronze G. Cotton brown N produces on silk darker shades +than on cotton. + +Of course this classification cannot be taken as absolutely correct, as +by raising or lowering the temperature during the dyeing process or by a +larger or smaller addition of soap or Glauber's salt (common salt, +phosphate of soda), the dye-stuffs are more or less influenced in one or +the other direction. Diamine violet N, for instance, when dyed with an +increased addition of soap would dye the cotton somewhat lighter, but at +the same time leave the silk perfectly white. + +=Topping with Basic and Acid Dye-stuffs.=--As in very few cases only the +desired shade can be obtained in the first instance by bottoming with +direct colours, topping generally has to be resorted to. This is best +done with basic dyes, in some cases also with acid dye-stuffs in cold or +tepid bath with addition of sulphuric acid, hydrochloric or acetic acid. +The use of acid dye-stuffs is restricted to cases where the silk alone +is to be shaded. In most cases basic dye-stuffs are made use of, which +dye silk and cotton the same shade and deepen the shade of the cotton if +the latter has a sufficiently good bottom, thus giving the goods a +better and fuller appearance. + +It is not advisable to employ basic and acid dye-stuffs in the same bath +except when the quantities of either class are very small. Should it be +necessary to dye with large quantities of both classes, the acid +dye-stuffs are first dyed in a tepid acid bath and then the goods are +topped with the basic dye-stuffs in a fresh cold bath with the addition +of a little hydrochloric or acetic acid. + +Of the basic dye-stuffs which are available, the following are the most +suitable for topping: New methylene blue N, and other brands; New blue D +and other brands; Cresyl blue, Methylindone B and R, Metaphenylene blue, +Indazine; the various brands of Brilliant green, Solid green and +Malachite green, Capri green, Cresyl violet, Thioflavine T, New +phosphine G, Tannin orange R, and the various brands of Bismarck brown; +Safranine, Magenta all brands, Tannin heliotrope, all brands of Neutral +violet, Methyl violet. + +Of the acid dye-stuffs, the following are good for topping or shading +the silk: Cyanole extra, Indigo blue N, Indigo blue S G N, and the +various brands of Water blue, Soluble blue, Solid blue, and Induline; +the various brands of Acid green and Fast acid green; Indian yellow G +and R, Naphthol yellow S, Tropaeoline O and O O, and the various brands +of Milling yellow and Orange; Azo red A, Azo rubine A, Archil substitute +N, Azo orseille B B, Brilliant orseille C, and the various brands of +Eosine, Erythrosine, Rose bengale, Rhodamine, Brilliant croceine and +Brilliant scarlet; the various brands of Formyl violet and Acid violet; +Aniline grey B and Nigrosine, soluble in water. + +_Bright Yellow._--Use 2 lb. Thioflavine S. + +_Deep Orange Yellow._--This can be dyed by using 2 lb. Diamine yellow N. + +_Gold Yellow._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine gold. Some care must be taken +with this, especially not to dye too hot or the silk will be dyed deeper +than the cotton. + +_Deep Orange._--Use 2 lb. Diamine orange B. + +_Bright Rose._--Use 2 lb. Diamine Rose B D. Do not work too high, +especially when dyeing light rose shades, as then the silk is apt to +take up too much colour. + +_Scarlet._--Use in the dye-bath 2 lb. Diamine scarlet H S. The heat of +the dye-bath should not be allowed to exceed 160 deg. to 170 deg. F., or there +is a risk of the shades becoming somewhat duller. + +_Crimson._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine fast red F. + +_Violet._--Use 2 lb. Oxydiamine violet B. + +_Bright Blue._--A fine shade is dyed with 2 lb. Diamine blue R W. + +_Dark Green._--Use 2 lb. Diamine black H W. This gives a fine shade of +bluish green. + +_Gold Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine brown 3 G at a low heat, from 150 deg. +to 160 deg. F., otherwise the silk takes up too much colour. + +_Dark Green._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine green B. + +_Deep Rose._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine red 10 B. + +_Brilliant Yellow._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Mikado golden yellow 8 G; then +enter into a cold bath which contains 1-1/2 per cent. Auramine II. This +gives a very bright shade of yellow. + +_Dark Brown._--Dye a bottom with 2 lb. Mikado brown 3 G O, and then top +with 3 lb. Bismarck brown and 1/2 lb. Capri blue G O N. + +_Crimson._--Dye with 2 lb. Mikado orange 5 R O and 2 lb. Hessian purple +N. + +_Sage Green._--Dye a bottom with 2 lb. Mikado yellow G, 14 oz. Eboli +green T and 3 oz. Mikado brown M, then top in a fresh cold bath with +1/2 lb. Auramine II and 1/2 oz. Acridine Orange N 0. + +_Leaf Green._--Dye a bottom with 3 lb. Mikado golden yellow 8 G and 1 +lb. Eboli blue B; then top with 1-1/2 lb. Capri green 2 G in a cold +bath. + +_Deep Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Mikado orange 3 R O, 3 lb. Hessian grey S +and 1 lb. Hessian brown 2 B N; then top with 7 oz. Azine green T 0 and +2-1/4 lb. Acridine orange N 0. + +_Dark Cream._--Bottom with 1 oz. Diamine orange G; then top in a fresh +warm bath with 1 oz. Orange G G, 1/2 oz. Indian yellow R, 5 lb. +Glauber's salt and 1 lb. acetic acid. + +_Brilliant Violet._--Give a bottom with 1 lb. Diamine violet N; then top +in a fresh warm bath with 4 oz. Methyl violet B and 2 oz. Rhodamine. + +_Slate._--Bottom in a hot bath with 6 oz. Diamine dark blue B and 1-1/2 +oz. Diamine brown M; then top in a fresh bath at 170 deg. F. with 4 oz. +Aniline grey B, 1 oz. Cyanole extra, 5 lb. Glauber's salt and 1 lb. +acetic acid. + +_Black Brown._--Give a bottom with 2 lb. Cotton brown A, 1 lb. Diamine +gold and 3-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black S O O O; then top in a fresh bath at +120 deg. F. with 4 oz. New methylene blue N, 1 oz. Safranine and 1/2 oz. +Indian yellow G. + +_Bright Violet._--Use 1/2 lb. Oxydiamine violet B and 3/4 oz. Diamine +dark blue B; top after dyeing with 1/2 oz. Safranine, 1/4 oz. +Methylindone B and 1/4 oz. Cyanole extra. + +_Drab._--Dye with 6 oz. Diamine orange G, 1 lb. Diamine bronze G and 3/4 +lb. Diamine brown M, topping afterwards in a bath of 1/4 oz. Aniline +grey B and 1/4 oz. Bismarck brown F F. + +_Leaf Green._--Dye with 1/2 lb. Diamine black H W, and 1 lb. Diamine +fast yellow B; top with 1/4 oz. Brilliant green, 1/4 oz. Indian yellow +R, 1/2 oz. Thioflavine T and 1/2 oz. Cyanole extra. + +_Dark Crimson._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux S, 3/4 lb. +Diamine orange D C and 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brown V, topping with 1 oz. +Magenta and 1/2 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B. + +_Turquoise Blue._--Use to dye the ground, 6 oz. Diamine sky blue F F and +1/2 oz. Diamine fast yellow A; top with 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole extra and 1/4 +oz. Brilliant green. + +_Dark Grey._--Dye with 1/2 oz. Diamine grey G, and 1-1/2 oz. Diamine +brown M; top with 1/4 oz. Orange extra and 1 oz. Cyanole extra. + +_Brilliant Orange._--Dye with 1 lb. Mikado orange R O, and top with 6 +oz. Acridine orange N O and 12 oz. Auramine I I. + +_Brown._--Dye a bottom colour with 3 lb. Mikado brown M, and top with 2 +lb. Bismarck brown and 6 oz. Cresyl fast violet 2 R N. + +_Deep Crimson._--Dye with 1 lb. Columbia black R and top with 6 oz. +Magenta. + +_Pale Sea Green._--Use in the dye-bath 1/2 oz. Chrysophenine G, 1-1/2 +oz. Chicago blue 6 B and 1-1/2 oz. Alkali blue 6 B. + +_Bright Crimson._--Dye with 3 lb. Congo Corinth and top with 1 lb. +Magenta. + +_Dark Russian Green._--Dye with 3 lb. Columbia black B; then top with 1 +lb. Malachite green. + +_Gold Drab._--Dye with 5 oz. Columbia black, and top with 5 oz. +Chrysoidine R. + +_Bright Olive Yellow._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine gold, 1-1/2 lb. +Diamine fast yellow A and 3/4 lb. Diamine bronze G; top with 1/2 lb. +Thioflavine T and 1/4 lb. Chrysoidine. + +_Moss Brown._--Dye with 1 oz. Diamine brown M, 6 oz. Diamine fast yellow +A, 6 oz. Diamine bronze G, topping with 1 oz. new Methylene blue N and 4 +oz. Orange G G. + +_Dark Sea Green_--Dye a bottom with 9 oz. Diamine black B and 4-1/2 oz. +Diamine fast yellow B, then top with 2 oz. New methylene blue M and 2 +oz. New phosphine G. + +_Old Gold._--Dye a ground with 1/2 lb. Diamine gold, 1-1/4 lb. Diamine +fast yellow A, and 6 oz. Diamine bronze G, topping with 8 oz. +Thioflavine T, 1 oz. Indian yellow R and 1 oz. Brilliant green. + +_Cornflower Blue._--Dye the ground with 2-1/2 lb. Diamine azo blue 2 B, +1-1/2 oz. Alkali blue 3 B, 1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black S O O O, and top +with 1 oz. Metaphenylene blue B, 2 oz. New methylene blue R and 1 oz. +Indigo blue N. + +_Slate._--Dye with 7 oz. Diamine dark blue B and 1 oz. Diamine brown M; +top with 1 oz. Aniline grey B and 1 oz. Cyanole extra. + +_Pale Drab._--Dye the ground with 1 oz. Diamine orange G C, 3/4 oz. +Diamine bronze G and 1/2 oz. Diamine brown M; top with 3/4 oz. New +methylene blue N, 1 oz. Bismarck brown and 1 oz. Cyanole extra. + +_Deep Leaf Green._--Dye a ground colour with 1-1/4 lb. Diamine bronze G, +1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A and 1-1/2 lb. Diamine black H W; the +topping bath is made with 1/2 lb. Brilliant green, 1/2 lb. Chrysoidine +and 1/4 lb. New methylene blue N. + +_Maroon._--Dye with 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux S, 1/2 lb. Diamine orange D C +and 1/2 lb. Diamine brown V; top with 1/2 lb. Magenta and 1/4 lb. Formyl +violet S 4 B. + +_Heliotrope._--Dye with 1 lb. Heliotrope 2 B. + +_Lilac Rose._--Dye with 8 lb. Columbia black R and 1 lb. Alkali blue B; +after dyeing pass through a weak acetic acid bath, then wash well. + +_Pea Green._--Dye with 2 lb. Chrysophenine, 1 lb. Chicago blue 6 B and 1 +lb. Alkali blue 6 B; pass, after dyeing, through a weak acetic acid +bath, then wash well. + +_Dark Drab._--Dye with 1/4 lb. Diamine brown M, 1 lb. Diamine fast +yellow A and 3/4 lb. Diamine bronze G; top with 1/2 lb. Orange G G and +1/2 lb. Cyanole extra. + +_Deep Rose._--Dye the bottom colour with 1/2 lb. Diamine rose B D and +top with 1/4 lb. Rhodamine B and 1 oz. Safranine. + +_Walnut Brown._--Dye the bottom colour with 1 lb. Oxydiamine black D, 1 +lb. Diamine brown M and 1 lb. Oxydiamine violet B; the topping is done +with 4 oz. Safranine, 2 oz. New methylene blue N and 2 oz. Chrysoidine. + +=Dyeing of Plain Black.=--Diamine blacks find a very extensive +application for dyeing blacks on satin, either dyed direct in one bath, +or dyed, diazotised and developed. + +Union black S and Oxydiamine black D are particularly suitable for +direct blacks, and are used either alone or in a combination with +Diamine jet black S S, which produces a better covering of the silk, or +with Oxydiamine black S O O O, which deepens the shade of the cotton. +According to the shade required Diamine fast yellow A and B, Diamine +green B or G, or Alkaline blue may be used for shading. + +Dye for about one hour at about 175 deg. to 195 deg. F. in as concentrated a +bath as possible, with about 7 to 8 lb. dye per 100 lb. of satin, 8 to +16 oz. Glauber's salt and 5 to 8 oz. soap per 10 gallons dye liquor; +keep cool in the bath for some time and rinse. + +The raising is either done in a tepid soap bath with the addition of +some new methylene blue, or in an acid bath to which Naphthol, blue +black, Acid green, etc., is added for shading the silk. + +Direct dyed blacks are especially suitable for cheap goods (ribbons, +light linings, etc.), for which special fastness to water is not +required; also for tram and tussar silk plushes, which are afterwards +topped with logwood. + +If greater fastness is required, and more especially if it is a case of +replacing aniline black, Diaminogene diazotised and developed is a good +dye-stuff. It is extensively used for dyeing umbrella cloths and +linings. Against aniline black it has the great advantage of not +tendering the fibre in the least, and not turning green during storage. +Diaminogene B and Diaminogene extra are mostly used for this purpose, +the former for jet blacks, the latter for blue-black shades. + +Proceed as follows: Enter the boiled off and acidulated goods in a +boiling bath as concentrated as possible, charged with 16 oz. Glauber's +salt per 10 gallons liquor, and 1 lb. acetic acid per 100 lb. dry goods. +For jet black add for 100 lb. satin, 6 to 8 lb. Diaminogene, 1 to 2 lb. +Naphthylamine black D, 1/2 to 1 lb. Diamine fast yellow A or Diamine +green B; for very deep shades about 1/5 of the quantity of Diaminogene B +may be replaced with Diamine jet black S S. For blue black, 6 to 8 lb. +Diaminogene B, or 3 to 4 lb. Diaminogene B, and 3 to 4 lb. Diaminogene +extra. Dye for three-quarters to one hour at the boil, allow to cool in +the bath for about thirty minutes, then rinse, diazotise and develop. + +Phenylene diamine (93 per cent.) serves for developing jet blacks mixed +with resorcine for greenish shades. Beta-naphthol is used for blue +blacks (1 lb. 5 oz. per 100 lb. of dry material, dissolved in its own +weight of soda lye, 75 deg. Tw.). The three developers may also be mixed +with each other in any proportions. + +After developing soap hot with addition of new methylene blue, by +choosing a reddish or a bluish brand of new methylene, blue and black +may be shaded at will in the soap bath; finally rinse and raise with +acetic acid. + +If properly carried out this process will give a black almost equal to +aniline black; but having, as already mentioned, the advantage of not +impairing the strength of the fibre, and not turning green during +storage. + +As the dye-baths for blacks are charged with a proportionately high +percentage of dye-stuff for the first bath, and will not exhaust +completely, it is advisable to preserve them for further use. + +For subsequent lots only two-thirds to three-fourths of the quantities +of dye-stuffs used for the first baths are required, which fact has to +be taken into consideration when calculating the cost of dyeing. + +=Dyeing Shot Effects on Satin.=--Not all direct colours are equally well +adapted for the production of shot effects; those enumerated in Group +I. are most suitable for the purpose, and should be dyed with a larger +quantity of soap than is usual for solid shades, in order to leave the +silk as little tinted as possible. Dye-stuffs of the other groups may be +used if the dyeing is conducted with proper care, _i.e._, keeping the +baths more alkaline and lowering the temperature. The goods are dyed +with the addition for the two coloured effects previously mentioned, +then they are well rinsed, and afterwards the silk is dyed with the +suitable acid dye-stuffs, with addition of sulphuric acid at a +temperature of about 150 deg. F. Care should be taken not to use too much +acid, and to keep the temperature of the bath sufficiently low, as +otherwise the acid may cause some of the dye-stuff to go off the cotton +and tint the silk. It is best to work at a temperature of about 150 deg. F., +with addition of about 3 oz. concentrated sulphuric acid per 10 gallons +dye-liquor. + +For shading the silk all acid dye-stuffs can be used which have been +mentioned in the foregoing tables. + +If in shot effects the cotton is to be dyed bright and full shades, this +is best achieved by dyeing with direct colours first, and then topping +with basic colours as follows:-- + +Bottom the cotton first with the suitable direct colours, then dye the +silk and then treat the pieces for about two hours in a cold tannin bath +(about 8 oz. tannin per 10 gallons of water), then rinse once and pass +through a tartar emetic bath (about 3 oz. per 10 gallons), rinse +thoroughly and dye the cotton to shade with basic colours in a cold bath +to which some acetic acid has been added. + +Should the silk become a little dull after this process, this may be +remedied by a slight soaping. After dyeing rinse well and raise with +acetic acid. + +=Shot Effects with Black Cotton Warp.=--Effects much in favour are +designs composed of black cotton and light or coloured silk. The most +suitable black dye for this purpose is Diamine black B H, diazotised and +developed. + +Dye in as concentrated a bath as possible at about 160 deg. F. with about 6 +lb. Diamine black B H, 1 lb. Diamine sky blue, pat., per 100 lb. of dry +goods, 1/2 lb. Diamine orange D C, pat., with an addition of 6-1/2 oz. +soap, 4 to 5 dr. soda per 10 gallons liquor, 16 oz. Glauber's salt. +After dyeing rinse well in a bath containing 6 dr. soda and 3 oz. soap +per 10 gallons water, diazotised in a fresh bath with 4 lb. nitrite of +soda and 12 lb. hydrochloric acid (per 100 lb. of dry goods), rinse +thoroughly and develop with 3 to 16 oz. phenylene diamine (93 per +cent.), with addition of 1 to 2 lb. soda. These two operations should +follow each other as quickly as possible, also care has to be taken that +the diazotised goods are not exposed to direct sunlight or heat, which +causes unlevel dyeings. The silk is then cleaned as far as possible by +hot soaping, and dyed at about 120 deg. to 140 deg. F., with acid dye-stuffs and +the addition of sulphuric acid. After dyeing rinse as usual and +brighten. + +_Yellow and Violet,_--Dye the cotton with 2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, +the silk with 1 lb. Cyanole extra, and 1 lb. Forinyl violet S 4 B. + +_Black and Blue._--Dye the cotton with 5 lb. Diamine black B H, 1 lb. +Diamine sky blue, and 1/4 lb. Diamine orange D C. After dyeing, +diazotise and develop with phenylene diamine as described above. Then +dye the silk with 1/2 lb. Pure soluble blue and 1 lb. Cyanole extra. + +_Black and Crimson._--Dye the black as in the previous recipe, then dye +the silk with 2 lb. Brilliant croceine 3 B and 1/2 lb. Rhodamine S. + +_Blue and Gold._--Dye the cotton with 2 lb. Diamine sky blue and the +silk with 1 lb. Fast yellow S. + +_Dark Blue and Green._--Dye the cotton with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine black B H, +1-1/2 lb. Diamine sky blue and 1/2 lb. Diamine azo blue 2 R; the silk +with 2 lb. Naphthol yellow S and 1 lb. New methylene blue G G. + +_Violet and Yellow._--Dye the cotton with 2 oz. Diamine violet N and the +silk with 1 lb. Fast yellow S. + +_Orange and Violet._--Dye the cotton with 2 lb. Diamine orange D C and +the silk with 1 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B. + +_Dark Blue and Olive._--Dye the cotton with 1-1/2 lb. Diamineral blue R +and 1/2 lb. Diamine azo blue 2 R, and the silk with 1 lb. Naphthol +yellow B and 1 lb. Orange G G. + +_Green and Pink._--Dye the cotton with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A +and 1/4 lb. Diamine sky blue, and the silk with 1 lb. Erythrosine B. + +_Brown and Blue._--Dye the cotton with 3 lb. Mikado brown 2 B, and the +silk with 1/2 lb. Pure blue. + +It is quite possible to produce two coloured effects containing blue in +one bath by using Alkali blue as a constituent with a direct dye which +works only on to the cotton, the alkali blue going on to the silk, as, +for example, in the following recipes:-- + +_Orange and Blue._--The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. Mikado orange 5 R O +and 1-1/4 lb. Alkali blue 6 B. After the dyeing the goods are rinsed, +then passed through a bath of 1-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid in 10 gallons +water, washed well and dried. + +_Olive and Blue._--The dye-bath is made with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast +yellow A, 2-1/2 lb. Diamine orange DC, 1/4 lb. Diamine sky blue, and 1 +lb. Alkali blue 6 B, After dyeing rinse, then acidulate as above and +wash well. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +OPERATIONS FOLLOWING DYEING. + +WASHING, SOAPING, DRYING. + + +After loose cotton or wool, or cotton and woollen yarns, or piece goods +of every description have been dyed, before they can be sent out for +sale they have to pass through various operations of a purifying +character. There are some operations through which cloths pass that have +as their object the imparting of a certain appearance and texture to +them, generally known as finishing processes; of these it is not +intended here to speak, but only of those which precede these, but +follow on the dyeing operations. + +These processes are usually of a very simple character, and common to +most colours which are dyed, and here will be noticed the appliances and +manipulation necessary in the carrying out of these operations. + +=Squeezing or Wringing.=--It is advisable when the goods are taken out +of the dye-bath to squeeze or wring them according to circumstances, in +order to press out all surplus dye-liquor, which can be returned to the +dye-bath if needful to be used again. This is an economical proceeding +in many cases, especially in working with many of the old tannin +materials like sumac, divi-divi, myrobolams, and the modern direct dyes +which in the dyeing operations are not completely extracted out of the +bath, or in other words, the dye-bath is not exhausted of colouring +matter, and, therefore, it can be used again for another lot of goods, +simply by adding fresh material to make up for that absorbed by the +first lot of goods. + +Loose wool and loose cotton are somewhat difficult to deal with by +squeezing or wringing, but the material may be passed through a pair of +squeezing rollers, such as are shown in Fig. 31, which will be more +fully dealt with later on. The machine shown is made by Messrs Read +Holliday & Sons. + +[Illustration: FIG. 31.--Squeezing Rollers.] + +_Yarns in Hanks._--In the hank-dyeing process the hanks are wrung by +placing one end of the hank on a wringing horse placed over the +dye-tub, a dye stick on the other end of the hank giving two or three +sharp pulls to straighten out the yarn, and then twisting the stick +round, the twisting of the yarns puts some pressure on the fibres, +thoroughly and uniformly squeezing out the surplus liquor from the yarn. + +_Hank-wringing Machines._--Several forms of hank-wringing machines have +been devised. One machine consists of a pair of discs fitted on an axle; +these discs carry strong hooks on which the hanks are placed. The +operator places a hank on a pair of the hooks. The discs revolve and +carry round the hank, during the revolution the hank is twisted and the +surplus liquor wrung out, when the revolution of the discs carries the +hank to the spot where it entered the machine the hooks fly back to +their original position, the hank unwinds, it is then removed and a new +hank put in its place, and so the machine works on, hanks being put on +and off as required. The capacity of such a machine is great, and the +efficiency of its working good. + +Mr. S. Spencer of Whitefield makes a hank-wringing machine which +consists of a pair of hooks placed over a vat. One of the hooks is +fixed, the other is made to rotate. A hank hung between the hooks is +naturally twisted, and all the surplus liquor wrung out. The liquor +falling into the vat. + +_Roller Squeezing Machines for Yarn._--Hanks may be passed through a +pair of indiarubber squeezing rollers, which may be so arranged that +they can be fixed as required on the dye-bath. Such a pair of rollers is +a familiar article, and quite common and in general use in dye houses. + +_Piece Goods._--These are generally passed open through a pair of +squeezing rollers which are often attached to the dye-vat in which the +pieces are dyed. + +_Read Holliday's Squeezing Machine._--In Fig. 31 is shown a squeezing +machine very largely employed for squeezing all kinds of piece goods +and cotton warps after dyeing or washing. It consists of a pair of heavy +rollers on which, by means of the screws shown at the top, a very +considerable pressure can be brought to bear. The piece is run through +the eye shown on the left, by which it is made into a rope form, then +over the guiding rollers and between the squeezing rollers, and into +waggons for conveyance to other machines. This machine is effective. + +Another plan on which roller, or rather in this case disc, squeezing +machines is made, is to make the bottom roller with a square groove in +the centre, into this fits a disc, the cloth passing between them. The +top disc can by suitable screws be made to press upon the cloth in the +groove, and thus squeeze the water out of it. + +=Washing.=--One of the most important operations following that of +dyeing is the washing with water to free the goods, whether cotton or +woollen, from all traces of loose dye, acids, mordanting materials, +etc., which it is not desirable should be left in, as they might +interfere with the subsequent finishing operations. For this purpose a +plentiful supply of good clean water is required; this should be as soft +as possible, free from any suspended matter which might settle upon the +dyed goods, and stain or speck them. + +Washing may be done by hand, as it frequently was in olden days, by +simply immersing the dyed fabrics in a tub of water, shaking, then +wringing out, again placing in fresh water to finish off. Or if the +dye-works were on the banks of a running stream of clean water the dyed +goods were simply hung in the stream to be washed in a very effectual +manner. + +In these days it is best to resort to washing machines adapted to deal +with the various kinds of fibrous materials and fabrics in which they +can be subjected to a current of water. + +[Illustration: FIG. 32.--Yarn-washing Machine.] + +_Loose Wool and Cotton._--If this has been dyed by hand then the washing +may also be done in the same way by hand in a plain vat. If the dyeing +has been done on a machine, then the washing can be done on the same +machine. + +_Yarns._--Yarn in the cop form is best washed in the machine in which it +is dyed. + +_Yarns in Hanks._--A very common form of washing machine is shown in +Fig. 32. As will be seen it consists of a wooden vat, over which are +arranged a series of revolving reels on which the hanks are hung. The +hanks are kept in motion through the water, and so every part of the +yarn is thoroughly washed. Guides keep the hanks of yarn separate and +prevent any entanglement one with another. A pipe delivers constantly a +current of clean water, while another pipe carries away the used water. +Motion is given to the reels in this case by a donkey engine attached to +the machine, but it may also be driven by a belt from the main driving +shaft of the works. This machine is very effective. + +[Illustration: FIG. 33.--Dye-house Washing Machine.] + +_Piece Goods._--Piece goods are mostly washed in machines, of which two +broad types may be recognised; first, those where the pieces are dealt +with in the form of ropes in a twisted form, and, second, those where +the pieces are washed open. There are some machines in which the cloths +may be treated either in the open or rope form as may be thought most +desirable. + +[Illustration: FIG. 34.--Cloth-washing Machine.] + +Fig. 33 represents a fairly well-known machine, made by Messrs. Mather & +Platt, in which the pieces are treated in a rope-like form. It consists +of a trough in which a constant current of water is maintained. At one +end of this trough is a square beating roller, at the other a wooden +lattice roller. Above the square beater, and out of the trough, are a +pair of rollers whose purpose is to draw the cloth through the machine +and also partly to act as squeezing rollers. As will be seen the cloth +is threaded in rope form spirally round the rollers, passing in at one +end and out at the other, pegs in a guide rail serving to keep the +various portions separate. The square beater in its revolutions has a +beating action on the cloth tending to more effectual washing. The +lattice roller is simply a guide roller. + +Fig. 34 shows a washing machine very largely used in the wool-dyeing +trade. The principal portion of this machine is of wood. + +The internal parts consist of a large wooden bowl, or oftener, as in the +machine under notice, of a pair of wooden bowls which are pressed +together by springs with some small degree of force. Between these bowls +the cloth is placed, more or less loosely twisted up in a rope form, and +the machines are made to take four, six or eight pieces, or lengths of +pieces, at one time, the ends of the pieces being stitched together. A +pipe running along the front of the machine conveys a constant current +of clean water which is caused to impinge in the form of jets on the +pieces of cloth as they run through the machine, while an overflow +carries away the used water. The goods are run in this machine until +they are considered to be sufficiently washed, which may take half to +one and a half hours. + +In Fig. 35 is shown a machine designed to wash pieces in the broad or +open state. The machine contains a large number of guide rollers, built +more or less open, round which the pieces are guided--the ends of the +pieces being stitched together. Pipes carrying water are so arranged +that jets of clean water impinge on and thoroughly wash the cloth as it +passes through--the construction of the guide rollers facilitating the +efficient washing of the goods. + +[Illustration: FIG. 35.--Cloth-washing Machine.] + +=Soaping.=--- Sometimes yarns or cloths have to be passed through a soap +bath after being dyed in order to brighten up the colours or develop +them in some way. In the case of yarns this can be done on the reel +washing machine such as is shown in Fig. 32. In the case of piece goods, +a continuous machine, in which the washing, soaping, etc., can be +carried on simultaneously, is often employed. Such a machine is shown in +Fig. 36. It consists of a number of compartments fitted with guide +rollers so that the cloth passes up and down several times through the +liquors in the compartments. Between one compartment and another is +placed a pair of squeezing rollers. The cloth is threaded in a +continuous manner, well shown in the drawing, through the machine. In +one compartment it is treated with water, in another soap liquor, in +another water, and so on; and these machines may be made with two, three +or more compartments as may be necessary for the particular work in +hand. As seen in the drawing, the cloth passes in at one end and out at +the other finished. It is usually arranged that a continuous current of +the various liquors used flows through the various compartments, thus +ensuring the most perfect treatment of the cloths. + +[Illustration: FIG. 36.--Washing and Soaping Vats.] + +=Steaming.=--Sometimes it becomes necessary to subject dyed goods to a +process of steaming, as, for instance, with steam aniline blacks, khaki +shades, alizarine reds, etc., for the purpose of more fully developing +and fixing the dye upon the fibre. In the case of yarns, this operation +is carried out in the steaming cottage, one form of which is shown in +Fig. 37. It consists of a horizontal cylindrical iron vessel like a +steam boiler, one end is entirely closed, while the other is made to +open and be closed tightly and hermetically. The cottage is fitted with +the necessary steam inlet and outlet pipes, drain pipes for condensed +water, pressure gauges. The yarn to be steamed is hung on rods placed on +a skeleton frame waggon on wheels which can be run in and out of the +steaming cottage as is required. The drawing shows well the various +important parts of the machine. In the case of piece goods these also +can be hung from rods in folds on such a waggon, but it is much more +customary to employ a continuous steaming chamber, very similar to the +ageing and oxidising machine shown in Fig. 38, and also used in the +dyeing of aniline black. + +[Illustration: FIG. 37.--Steaming Cottage.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 38.--Steaming and Ageing Chamber.] + +=Drying.=--Following on the washing comes the final operation of the +dyeing process, that of drying the dyed and washed goods. Textile +fabrics of all kinds after they have passed through dye-baths, washing +machines, etc., contain a large amount of water, often exceeding in +weight that of the fibre itself, and to take the goods direct from the +preceding operations to the drying plant means that a considerable +amount of fuel must be expended to drive off this large amount of water. +It is therefore very desirable that the goods be freed from as much of +this water as possible before they are sent into any drying chambers, +and this may be done in three ways, by wringing, squeezing and +hydro-extracting. The first two methods have already been described (p. +239, etc.) and need not again be alluded to; the last needs some +account. + +[Illustration: FIG. 39.--Hydro-extractor.] + +Hydro-extractors are a most efficient means for extracting water out of +textile fabrics. They are made in a variety of forms by several makers. +Essentially they consist of a cylindrical vessel, or basket, as it is +called, with perforated sides so constructed that it can be revolved at +a high speed. This vessel is enclosed in an outer cage. The goods are +placed in the basket, as it is termed, and then this is caused to +revolve at high speed, when centrifugal action comes into play, and the +water contained in the goods finds its way to the outside of the basket +through the perforations, and so away from the goods. Hydro-extractors +are made in a variety of sizes and forms--in some the driving gear is +above, in others below the basket; in some the driving is done by +belt-gearing, in others a steam engine is directly connected with the +basket. Figs. 39 and 40 show two forms which are much in use in the +textile industry. They are very efficient, and extract water from +textile goods more completely than any other means, as will be obvious +from a study of the table below. + +[Illustration: FIG. 40.--Hydro-extractor.] + +The relative efficiency of the three systems of extracting the moisture +out of textile fabrics has been investigated by Grothe, who gives in his +_Appretur der Gewebe_, published in 1882, the following table showing +the percentage amount of water removed in fifteen minutes:-- + +Yarns. Wool. Silk. Cotton. Linen. + +Wringing 44.5 45.4 45.3 50.3 +Squeezing 60.0 71.4 60.0 73.6 +Hydro-extracting 83.5 77.0 81.2 82.8 + +Pieces. + +Wringing 33.4 44.5 44.5 54.6 +Squeezing 64.0 69.7 72.2 83.0 +Hydro-extracting 77.8 75.5 82.3 86.0 + +In the practical working of hydro-extractors it is of the utmost +importance that the goods be carefully and regularly laid in the +basket--not too much in one part and too little in another. Any +unevenness in this respect at the speed at which they are driven lays +such a strain on the bearings as to seriously endanger the safety of the +machine. + +After being wrung, squeezed or hydro-extracted the goods are ready to be +dried. In the case of yarns, this may be done in rooms heated by steam +pipes placed on the floor, the hanks being hung on rods suspended from +racks arranged for the purpose. + +[Illustration: FIG. 41.--Automatic Yarn-dryer.] + +Where large quantities of yarn have to be dried, it is most economical +to employ a yarn-drying machine, and one form of such is shown in Fig. +41. The appearance of the machine is that of one long room from the +outside; internally it is divided into compartments, each of which is +heated up by suitably arranged steam pipes, but the degree of heating in +each compartment varies--at the entrance end it is high, at the exit end +lower. The yarn is fed in at one end, being hung on rods, and by +suitable gearing it is carried directly through the various chambers or +sections, and in its passage the heat to which it is subjected drives +off the water it contains. The yarn requires no attention from the time +it passes in wet at the one end of the machine and comes out dry at the +other end. The amount of labour required is slight, only that +represented by filling the sticks with wet yarn and emptying them of the +dried yarn. The machine works regularly and well. + +[Illustration: FIG. 42.--Truck Yarn-dryer.] + +The drying is accomplished by circulating heated air through the yarns, +this heating being effected by steam coils, fresh air continually enters +the chambers, while water-saturated air is as continually being taken +out at the top of the chamber. One of the great secrets in all drying +operations is to have a constant current of fresh hot air playing on the +goods to be dried; this absorbs the moisture they contain, and the +water-charged air thus produced must be taken away as quickly as +possible. + +[Illustration: FIG 43.--Drying Cylinders.] + +Fig. 42 shows what is called a truck yarn-dryer, which consists of a +chamber heated with steam pipes and fitted with an exhausting fan to +draw out the air and water vapour which is produced. The yarns are hung +on trucks which can be run in and out of the chamber for filling and +emptying. + +_Piece Goods._--The most convenient manner of drying piece goods is to +employ the steam cylinder drying machine, such as is shown in Fig. 43. +This consists of a number of hollow tin or copper cylinders which can be +heated by steam passing in through the axles of the cylinders, which are +made hollow on purpose. The cloth to be dried passes round these +cylinders, which revolve while the cloth passes. They work very +effectually. The cylinders are arranged sometimes, as in the drawing, +vertically; at other times horizontally. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +TESTING OF THE COLOUR OF DYED FABRICS. + + +It is frequently desirable that dyers should be able to ascertain with +some degree of accuracy what dyes have been used to dye any particular +samples of dyed cloth that has been offered to them to match. In these +days of the thousand and one different dyes that are known it is by no +means an easy thing to do; and when, as is most often the case, two or +three dye-stuffs have been used in the production of a shade, the +difficulty is materially increased. + +The only available method is to try the effect of various acid and +alkaline reagents on the sample, noting whether any change of colour +occurs, and judging accordingly. It would be a good thing for dyers to +accustom themselves to test the dyeings they do, and so accumulate a +fund of practical experience which will stand them in good stead +whenever they have occasion to examine a dyed pattern of unknown origin. + +The limits of this book does not permit of there being given a series of +elaborate tables showing the action of various chemical reagents on +fabrics dyed with various colours; and such, indeed, serve very little +purpose, for it is most difficult to describe the minor differences +which often serve to distinguish one colour from another. Instead of +doing so, we will point out in some detail the methods of carrying out +the various tests, and advise all dyers to carry these out for +themselves on samples dyed with known colours, and when they have an +unknown colour to test to make tests comparatively with known colours +that they think are likely to have been used in the production of the +dyed fabric they are testing. + +One very common method is to spot the fabric, that is, to put a drop of +the reagent on it, usually with the end of the stopper of the reagent +bottle, and to observe the colour changes, if any, which ensue. This is +a very useful test and should not be omitted, and it is often employed +in the testing of indigo dyed goods with nitric acid, those of logwood +with hydrochloric acid, alizarine with caustic soda, and many others. It +is simple and easy to carry out, and only takes a few minutes. + +To make a complete series of tests of dyed fabrics there should be +provided the following reagents:-- + +1. Strong sulphuric acid, as bought. +2. Dilute sulphuric acid, being the strong acid diluted with twenty + times its volume of water. +3. Concentrated hydrochloric acid. +4. Dilute hydrochloric acid, 1 acid to 20 water. +5. Concentrated nitric acid. +6. Dilute nitric acid, 1 acid to 20 water. +7. Acetic acid. +8. Caustic soda solution, 5 grams in 100 c.c. water. +9. Ammonia (strong). +10. Dilute ammonia, 1 strong ammonia to 10 water. +11. Carbonate of soda solution, 6 grams in 100 c.c. water. +12. Bleaching powder solution, 2 deg. Tw. +13. Bisulphite of soda, 72 deg. Tw. +14. Stannous chloride, 10 grams crystals in 100 c.c. water, with a + little hydrochloric acid. +15. Methylated spirit. + +Small swatches of the dyed goods are put in clean porcelain basins, and +some of these solutions poured over them. Any change of colour of the +cloth is noted, as well as whether any colour is imparted to the +solutions. After making observations of the effects in the cold the +liquids may be warmed and the results again noted. After being treated +with the acids the swatches should be well washed with water, when the +original colour may be wholly or partially restored. + +To give tables showing the effects of these reagents on the numerous +dyes now known would take up too much room and not serve a very useful +purpose, as such tables, if too much relied on, leave the operator +somewhat uncertain as to what he has before him. The reader will find in +Hurst's _Dictionary of Coal-tar Colours_ some useful notes as to the +action of acids and alkalies on the various colours that may be of +service to him. + +Alizarine and the series of dye-stuffs to which it has given its name, +fustic, cochineal, logwood and other dyes of a similar class require the +fabric to be mordanted, and the presence of such mordant is occasionally +an indirect proof of the presence of these dyes. + +To detect these mordants, a piece of the swatch should be burnt in a +porcelain or platinum crucible over a Bunsen burner, care being taken +that all carbonaceous matter be burnt off. A white ash will indicate the +presence of alumina mordants, red ash that of iron mordants, and a +greenish ash chrome mordants. + +To confirm these the following chemical tests may be applied: Boil the +ash left in the crucible with a little strong hydrochloric acid and +dilute with water. Pass a current of sulphuretted hydrogen gas through +the solution; if there be any tin present a brown precipitate of tin +sulphide will be obtained. This can be filtered off. The filtrate is +boiled for a short time with nitric acid, and ammonia is added to the +solution when alumina is thrown down as a white gelatinous precipitate; +iron is thrown down as a brown red bulky precipitate; while chrome is +thrown down as a greyish-looking gelatinous precipitate. The precipitate +obtained with the ammonia is filtered off, and a drop of ammonium +sulphide added, when any zinc present will be thrown down as white +precipitate of zinc sulphide: to the filtrate from this ammonium oxalate +may be added, when if lime is present a white precipitate of calcium +oxalate is obtained. + +A test for iron is to dissolve some of the ash in a little hydrochloric +acid, and add a few drops of potassium ferrocyanide solution, when if +any iron be present a blue precipitate will be obtained. + +To make more certain of the presence of chrome, heat a little of the ash +of the cloth with caustic soda and chlorate of soda in a porcelain +crucible until well fused, then dissolve in water, acidify with acetic +acid and add lead acetate; a yellow precipitate indicates the presence +of chrome. + +A book on qualitative chemical analysis should be referred to for +further details and tests for metallic mordants. + +The fastness of colours to light, air, rubbing, washing, soaping, acids +and alkalies is a feature of some considerable importance. There are +indeed few colours that will resist all these influences, and such are +fully entitled to be called fast. The decree of fastness varies very +considerably. Some colours will resist acids and alkalies well, but are +not fast to light and air; some will resist washing and soaping, but are +not fast to acids; Some may be fast to light, but are not so to washing. +The following notes will show how to test these features:-- + +=Fastness to Light and Air.=--This is simply tested by hanging a piece +of the dyed cloth in the air, keeping a piece in a drawer to refer to, +so that the influence on the original colour can be noted from time to +time. If the piece is left out in the open one gets not only the effect +of light but also that of climate on the colour, and there is no doubt +wind, rain, hail and snow have some influence on the fading of the +colour. + +If the piece is exposed under glass, the climatic influences do not come +into play, and one gets the effect of light alone. + +In making tests of fastness, the dyer will and does pay due regard to +the character of the influences that the material will be subjected to +in actual use, and these vary very considerably; thus the colour of +underclothing need not be fast to light, for it is rarely subjected to +that agent of destruction. On the other hand it must be fast to washing, +for that is an operation to which underclothing is subjected week by +week. + +Window curtains are much exposed to light and air, and, therefore, +colours in which they are dyed should be fast to light and air. On the +other hand these curtains are rarely washed, and so the colour need not +be quite fast to washing. And so with other kinds of fabrics, there are +scarcely two kinds which are subjected to the same influences, and +require the colours to have the same degree of fastness. + +The fastness to rubbing is generally tested by rubbing the dyed cloth on +a piece of white paper. + +=Fastness to Washing.=--This is generally tested by boiling a swatch of +the cloth in a solution of soap containing 4 grams of a good neutral +curd soap per litre for ten minutes and noting the effect--whether the +soap solution becomes coloured and to what degree, or whether it remains +colourless, and also whether the colour of the swatch has changed at +all. + +One very important point in connection with the soaping test is whether +a colour will run into a white fabric that may be soaped along with it. +This is tested by twisting strands of the dyed yarn or cloth with white +yarn or cloth and boiling them in the soap liquor for ten minutes and +then noting the effect, particularly observing whether the white pieces +have taken up any colour. + +Fastness to acids and fastness to alkalies is observed while carrying +out the various acid and alkali tests given above. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +EXPERIMENTAL DYEING AND COMPARATIVE DYE TESTING. + + +Every dyer ought to be able to make experiments in the mordanting and +dyeing of textile fibres for the purpose of ascertaining the best +methods of applying mordants or dye-stuffs, the best methods of +obtaining any desired shade, and for the purpose of making comparative +tests of dyes or mordanting materials with the object of determining +their strength and value. This is not by any means difficult, nor does +it involve the use of any expensive apparatus, so that a dyer need not +hesitate to set up a small dyeing laboratory for fear of the expense +which it might entail. + +In order to carry out the work indicated above there will be required +several pieces of apparatus. First, a small chemical balance, one that +will carry 100 grams in each pan is quite large enough; and such a one, +quite accurate enough for this work, can be bought for 25s. to 30s., +while if the dyer be too poor even for this, a cheap pair of +apothecaries' scales might be used. It is advisable to procure a set of +gram weights, and to get accustomed to them, which is not a very +difficult task. + +In using the balance always put the substance to be weighed on the +left-hand pan, and the weights on the right-hand pan. Never put +chemicals of any kind direct on the pan, but weigh them in a watch +glass, small porcelain basin, or glass beaker, which has first been +weighed, according to the nature of the material which is being +weighed. The sets of weights are always fitted into a block or box, and +every time they are used they should be put back into their proper +place. + +The experimenter will find it convenient to provide himself with a few +small porcelain basins, glass beakers, cubic centimetre measures, two or +three 200 c.c. flasks with a mark on the neck, a few pipettes of various +sizes, 10 c.c., 20 c.c., 25 c.c. + +The most important feature is the dyeing apparatus. Where only a single +dye test is to be made, a small copper or enamelled iron saucepan, such +as can be bought at any ironmonger's, may be used; this may conveniently +be heated by a gas boiling burner, such as can also be bought at an +ironmonger's or plumber's for 2s. + +[Illustration: FIG. 44.--Experimental Dye-bath.] + +It is, however, advisable to have means whereby several dyeing +experiments can be made at one time and under precisely the same +conditions, and this cannot be done by using the simple means noted +above. + +To be able to make perfectly comparative dyeing experiments it is best +to use porcelain dye-pots--these may be bought from most dealers in +chemical apparatus--and to heat them in a water-bath arrangement. + +The simplest arrangement is sketched in Fig. 44; it consists of a copper +bath measuring 15 inches long by 10-1/2 inches broad and 6-1/2 inches +deep--this is covered by a lid in which are six apertures to take the +porcelain dye-baths. The bath is heated by two round gas boiling burners +of the type already referred to. + +The copper bath is filled with water, which, on being heated to the boil +by the gas burners, heats up the dye liquids in the dye-pots. The +temperature in the dye-pots under such conditions can never reach the +boiling point; where it is desirable, as in some cases of wool +mordanting and dyeing, that it should boil, there should be added to the +water in the copper bath a quantity of calcium chloride, which forms a +solution that has a much higher boiling point than that of water, and so +the dye liquors in the dye-pots may be heated up to the boil. + +An objection might be raised that with such an apparatus the temperature +in every part of the bath may not be uniform, and so the temperature of +the dye-liquors in the pots may vary also, and differences of +temperature often have a considerable influence on the shade of the +colour which is being dyed. This is a minor objection, which is more +academic in its origin than of practical importance. To obviate this Mr. +William Marshall of the Rochdale Technical School has devised a circular +form of dye-bath, in which the temperature in every part can be kept +quite uniform. + +The dyeing laboratories of technical schools and colleges are generally +provided with a more elaborate set of dyeing appliances. These, in the +latest constructed, consist of a copper bath supported on a hollow pair +of trunnions, that the bath can be turned over if needed. Into the bath +are firmly fixed three earthenware or porcelain dye-pots; steam for +heating can be sent through the trunnions. After the dyeing tests have +been made the apparatus can be turned over, and the contents of the +dye-pots emptied into a sink which is provided for the purpose. + +Many other pieces of apparatus have been devised and made for the +purpose of carrying on dyeing experiments on the small scale, but it +will not be needful to describe these in detail. After all no more +efficient apparatus can be desired than that described above. + +Dyeing experiments can be made with either yarns or pieces of +cloth--swatches, as they are commonly called--a very convenient size is +a small skein of yarn or a piece of cloth having a weight of 5 grams. +These test skeins or pieces ought to be well washed in hot water before +use, so that they are clean and free from any size or grease. A little +soda or soap will facilitate the cleansing process. + +In carrying out a dyeing test the dye-pot should be filled with the +water required, using as little as can be consistent with the dye swatch +being handled comfortably therein, then there is added the required +mordants, chemicals, dyes, etc., according to the character of the work +which is being done. + +Of such chemicals as soda, caustic soda, sodium sulphate (Glauber's +salt), tartar, bichromate of potash, it will be found convenient to +prepare stock solutions of known strength, say 50 grams per litre, and +then by means of a pipette any required quantity can be conveniently +added. The same plan might be followed in the case of dyes which are +constantly in use, in this case, 5 grams per litre will be found strong +enough. + +Supposing it is desired to make a test of a sample of direct red, using +the following proportions: 2 per cent. dye-stuff, 3 per cent. soda, 15 +per cent. Glauber's salt, and the weight of the swatch which is being +used is 5 grams. The following calculations are to be made to give the +quantities of the ingredients required. + +For the dye-stuff:-- + +5 (weight of swatch) multiplied by 2 (per cent. of dye) and divided by +100 equals-- + + 5 x 2 + ------- = 0.1 gram dye + 100 + +For the soda we have similarly:-- + + 5 x 3 + ------- = 0.15 gram soda. + 100 + +For the Glauber's salt:-- + + 5 x 15 + -------- = 0.75 gram Glauber's salt. + 100 + +These quantities may be weighed out and added to the dye-bath, or if +solutions are kept, a calculation can be made as to the number of cubic +centimetres which contain the above quantities, and these measured out +and added to the dye-bath. + +When all is ready, the bath is heated up, the swatch entered, and the +work of the test entered upon. + +Students are recommended to make experiments on such points as:-- + +The shades obtained by using various proportions of dye-stuffs. + +The influence of various assistants--common salt, soda, Glauber's salt, +borax, phosphate of soda--in the bath. + +The influence of varying proportions of mordants on the shade of dyeing. + +The value of various assistants, tartar, oxalic acid, lactic acid, +sulphuric acid, on the fixation of mordants. + +The relative value of different tannin matters, etc. + +Each dyer should make himself a pattern-book into which he should enter +his tests, with full particulars as to how they have been produced at +the side. + +It is important that a dyer should be able to make comparative dye +tests to ascertain the relative strength of any two, or more samples of +dyes which may be sent to him. This is not difficult, but requires +considerable care in carrying out the various operations involved. + +Of each of the samples of dyes 0.5 gram should be weighed out and +dissolved in 100 c.c. of water, care being taken that every portion of +the dye is dissolved before any of the solution is used in making up the +dye-vats. Care should also be taken that the skeins of yarn or swatches +of cloth are exactly equal in weight; that the same volume of water is +placed in each of the dye-pots; that the same amount of sulphate of soda +or other dye assistants are added; that the quantities of dye-stuff and +solutions used are equal; in fact, that in all respects the conditions +of dyeing are exactly the same, such, in fact, being the vital +conditions in making comparative dye tests of the actual dyeing strength +of several samples of dyes. + +After the swatches have been dyed they are rinsed and then dried, when +the depth of shade dyed on them may be compared one with another. To +prevent any mistakes, it is well to mark the swatches with one, two, +three or more cuts as may be required. + +It is easier to ascertain if two dyes are different in strength of +colour than to ascertain the relative difference between them. There are +two plans available for this purpose--one is a dyeing test, the other is +a colorimetric test made with the solutions of the dyes. + +=Dyeing Test.=--This method of ascertaining the relative value of two +dyes as regards strength of colour is carried out as follows: A +preliminary test will show which is stronger than the other. Then there +is prepared a series of dye-vats--one contains a swatch with the deepest +of the two dyes, which is taken as the standard; the others, swatches +with the other dye, but containing 2, 5 and 10 per cent. more dye-stuff, +and all these swatches are dyed together, and after drying a comparison +can be made between them and the standard swatch and a judgment formed +as to the relative strength of the two dyes. A little experience will +soon enable the dyer to form a correct judgment of the difference in +strength between two samples of dye-stuff. + +=Colorimetric Test.=--This is based on the principle that the colour of +a solution of dye-stuff will be proportionate to its strength. Two white +glass tubes equal in diameter are taken. Solutions of the dye-stuff, 0.5 +gram in 100 c.c. of water, are prepared, care being taken that the +solution is complete. Of one of these solutions 5 c.c. is taken and +placed in one of the glass tubes, and 5 c.c. of the other solution is +placed in the other glass tube. Of water 25 c.c. is now added to each +tube, and then the colour of the diluted liquids is compared by looking +through them in a good light. That sample which gives the deeper +solution is the stronger in colouring power. By diluting the stronger +solution with water until it is of the same depth of colour as the +weaker, it may be assumed that the depth of the columns of liquid in the +two tubes is in proportion to the relative strength of the two samples. +Thus, if in one tube there are 30 c. of liquid and in the other 25 c., +then the relative strength is as 30 to 25; and if the first is taken as +the standard at 100, a proportion sum gives + +30 : 25 : : 100 : 83.3, + +that is, the weaker sample has only 83.3 per cent, of the strength of +the stronger sample. + + + + +INDEX. + +COMPILED BY MISS GRACE GREENWOOD, B.A. (LOND.) + + +A. + +Acetate liquor, 190, 193. +-- of alumina, 170. +-- of chrome, 180. +-- of lead, 159. + +Acetic acid, 174, 180, 184, 227, 231. + +Acid dyes;, 83, 159. +-- dye-stuffs, topping with, 228. +-- green, 84, 221, 229, 234. +-- magenta, 84. 220. +-- violet, 229. +-- --6 B, 211, 218. +-- yellow, 220. + +Acids, action of, on cellulose, 9. +Acridine orange NO, 231, 232. + +Affinity of dye-stuff for fibre, 109. + +Albumens, 4. + +Algarobilla, 147, 148. + +Alizarine, 18, 150, 157, 169, 180, 259. +-- blue, 173, 174. +-- --paste, 174. +-- dyed goods, test of, 258. +-- dyes, 84. +-- oil, 170. +-- orange, 173. 174. +-- pink, 172. +-- purple, 172. +-- red, 171, 248. +-- violet, 172. +-- yellow N, 180. + +Alkali blue B, 233. +-- --3 B, 233. +-- --6 B, 217, 232, 233, 238. +-- yellow R, 209. + +Alkalies, action of, on cotton, 6. + +Alkaline blue, 211, 214, 215, 216. +-- copper solution, 196. + +Alpha-naphthol, 130, 132, 133, 186, 187, 188. + +Alpha-naphthylamine, 182, 185, 187, 188. +-- claret, 197. + +Alum, 159, 164, 165. 166, 167. + +Alumina, 157. +-- acetate, 179. +-- mordants, 259. + +Amidazol blacks, 79, 121, 179. +-- black G, 124, 126. +-- brown, 121. +-- cachou, 127. +-- cutch, 126. +-- drab, 127. +-- green B, 127. +-- -- Y, 127. +-- olive, 121. + +Amidoazobenzene, 185, 187, 188. + +Amido-azo bodies, 183. +-- compounds, 182. + +Amidoazotoluol, 198. +-- garnet, 198. + +Amido bases, diazotisation of, 182. +-- groups, 130. + +Amido-diphenylamine, 183. + +Amido-phenylamine, 133. + +Amines, 181. + +Ammonia, 174, 180. +-- soda, 173. + +Ammoniacal copper, 21. + +Ammonium chloride, 180, 207. + +Amyloid, 12. + +Aniline, 13, 182, 184, 185, 186, 188. +-- black, 79, 205, 234. +-- grey B, 229, 231, 333. +-- hydrochloride, 181. +-- oil, 206, 207. +-- salt, 207. + +Anisidine, 183. + +Anthracene brown, 174. + +Anthrapurpurine, 171. + +Antimony fluoride, 147. + +---- oxalate, 147. + +_Appretur der Gewebe_, 252. + +Archil substitute N, 229. + +Artificial silk, 15. + +Atlas red R, 102. + +Auramine, 18, 147, 153. + +---- G. 154. + +---- I I, 151, 152, 153, 230, 231, 232. + +Auroline, 209. + +Automatic yarn-dryer, 253. + +Azine green, T O, 231. + +Azo-acid dyes, 210. + +---- yellow, 211. + +Azo blue, 85, 211. + +---- ---- 2 R, 228. + +---- compounds, 182. + +---- dyes, 18, 129, 159, 181. + +---- mauve. 100, 210. + +---- ---- A M, 99, 106. + +---- orseille B B, 229. + +---- red A, 211, 214, 215, 216, 217, 223, 229. + +---- rubine A, 229. + +---- scarlet, 84. + +---- violet, 100. + +Azophor orange M N, 195. + +---- red P N, 139, 141, 193,195. + + +B. + +Barlow kiers, 30, 32. + +Barwood, 18, 156, 178. + +Basic dyes, 83. + +---- ---- topping with, 145. + +---- dye-stuffs, topping with, 228. + +Bast fibre, 2. + +Bayer developer, 133. + +Beaumont's cop-dyeing machine, 67. + +Beige, 167. + +Benzo azurine, 101, 107, 112. + +---- ---- G, 93, 101, 146, 201. + +---- ---- 3 G, 211. + +---- ---- R, 210. + +---- black blue, 164. + +---- blue, 227. + +---- ---- 3 B, 94. + +---- ---- black G, 210. + +---- ---- R W, 115. + +---- brown, 92. + +---- ---- G, 100, 103. + +---- ---- N B, 100, 103. + +---- ---- N B X, 101. + +---- chrome black blue B, 96, 118. + +---- ---- brown G, 118. + +---- ---- ---- 5 G, 113. + +---- ---- ---- R, 118. + +---- ---- ---- 2 R, 117. + +---- dyes, 18, 85, 208, 225. + +---- fast grey, 102. + +---- ---- scarlet 4 B S, 107. + +---- green, B B, 93. + +---- ---- G, 92, 145. + +Benzo-nitrol black B, 142. + +---- brown G, 144. + +---- dark brown N, 144. + +---- developer, 141. + +---- dyes, 139. + +Benzo olive, 92. + +---- orange R, 87, 92. + +---- purpurine, 85, 101, 107. + +---- ---- B, 100, 210. + +---- ---- 4 B, 87, 89, 210, 217. + +---- ---- 6 B, 146. + +---- ---- 10 B, 210, 217. + +Beta-naphthol, 130, 131, 132, 184, 186, 187, 188, 189, 191, 196, 235. + +Beta-naphthylamine, 182, 185, 187, 188. + +---- red, 196. + +Bichromate of potash, 164, 165, 166, 167, 177, 179, 181. + +---- of soda, 206. + +Biebrich orange, 128. + +---- scarlet, 128. + +Birch's sewing machine, 25. + +---- washing machine, 36. + +Bismarck brown, 146, 147, 153, 165, 166, 167, 229, 230, 232. + +---- ---- F F, 231. + +Bisulphate of soda, 221, 222, 223. + +Black, 104, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 137, 138, 139, 142, 144, + 166, 214, 215, 217. + +---- and blue shot, 222, 223. + +---- and crimson shot dyes, 237. + +---- and green blue shot, 222. + +---- and pink shot, 223. + +---- and yellow shot, 223. + +---- blue, 116. + +---- brown, 102, 103, 118, 136, 138. + +---- dyeing of, 234. + +---- iron liquor, 165. + +Bleaching of cotton, 24. +-- of fine fabrics, 42. +-- of yarn, 43. + +Blue, 96, 97, 98, 115, 125, 126, 130, 136, 145, 146, 155. +-- and gold shot dyes, 237. +-- and gold yellow shot, 222. +-- and orange shot, 224. +-- black, 136, 137, 138, 139, 154, 216, 219. +-- developer A, 130. +-- -- AN, 134. +-- green, 114. +-- grey, 105. + +Bluestone, 164, 165, 166, 178. + +Bluish claret red, 187. +-- rose, 153. + +Borax, 86, 180, 221. + +Brazil wood, 84, 156, 178, 179. + +Bridson's washing machine, 36. + +Bright blue, 95, 97, 98, 145, 151, 215, 217, 230. +-- crimson, 232. +-- grass green, 93. +-- green, 146, 151. +-- grey, 106. +-- navy, 115, 116. +-- olive yellow, 232. +-- orange, 92. +-- pea green, 94. +-- pink, 90. +-- red, 87, 145. +-- --lilac, 99. +-- rose, 230. +-- scarlet, 89, 130, 186. +-- sea green, 151. +-- straw, 90. +-- violet, 231. +-- walnut, 143. +-- yellow, 90, 143, 154, 213, 214, 215, 229. + +Brilliant azurine B, 146. +-- --5 G, 97, 211. +-- cochineal 4 R, 222. +-- Congo R, 210. +-- croceine, 229. +-- -- 3 B, 237. +-- green, 145, 146, 147, 151, 154, 229, 231, 232, 233. +-- milling green B, 211. +-- orange, 92. +-- -- G, 103, 218, 232. +-- orseille C, 229. +-- purpurine, 87. +-- -- R, 210. +-- red, 88. +-- rhoduline red B, 151. +-- scarlet, 211, 229. +-- -- G, 211 +-- violet, 231. +-- yellow, 230. + +Bronze green, 114, 217. +-- grey, 106. + +Brown, 101, 103, 117, 120, 127, 128, 130, 144, 164, 174, 180, 218, 232. +-- and blue shot dyes, 222, 238. +-- and violet shot, 223. +-- drab, 100. + +Brownish orange, 186. + +Buff brown, 102, 118, 126, 135. +-- yellow, 91. + + +C. + +Cachou de laval, 100, 121. + +Camwood, 156, 178. + +Capri blue, 230. +-- green, 229. +-- -- 2 G, 231. + +Carbonate of soda, 168, 209, +-- of soda lye, 168. + +Carbonising of woollen goods, 12. + +Catechu, 187. +-- brown, 112. +-- -- F K, 117. +-- -- G K, 117. + +Caustic soda, 180. +-- -- liquor, 189. +-- -- lye, 196. + +Cellulose, 5, 6. +-- di-nitrate, 14, 15. +-- hexa-nitrate, 14. +-- penta-nitrate, 14. +-- tetra-nitrate, 14. + +Ceruleine, 180. + +Chalk, 180, 181. + +Chardonnet's process for making silk, 15. + +Chemical reagents, action of, 257. + +Chemicing of cotton, 36. + +Chemistry of cotton fibre, 1. + +Chestnut, 100, 104, 118, 142, 219. + +Chicago blue, 112, 227. +-- -- B, 115, 210. +-- -- 4 B, 116, 210. +-- -- 6 B, 95, 97, 114, 116, 146, 210, 217, 232, 233. +-- -- R, 210. + +Chicago blue G, 210. + +---- ---- 4 R, 99, 100. + +---- ---- R W, 114, 115, 119. + +---- dyes, 85. + +Chloramine yellow, 209. + +Chloride of copper, 180. + +---- of lime, 37. + +---- of soda, 207. + +Chlorophenine orange R, 91. + +Chocolate brown, 102, 143, 155, 172. + +Chromanil black R F, 120. + +---- ---- 4 R F, 119. + +---- brown 2 G, 119. + +Chrome, 157. + +Chrome-logwood black, 177. + +Chrome mordants, 259. + +Chromic acid, 17. + +Chromine G, 209. + +Chromium chloride, 173. + +---- fluoride, 112. + +---- mordant, 173. + +Chrysamine, 85, 92, 101, 210. + +---- G, 91, 93, 113, 114, 146. + +---- R, 92. + +Chrysoidine, 147, 151, 164, 221, 232, 233. + +---- R, 232. + +Chrysophenine, 90, 100, 210, 217, 233. + +---- G, 114, 119, 232. + +Ciliary fibres, 1. + +Claret, 89, 146. + +---- red, 174. + +Clayton yellow, 210. + +Cloth-dyeing machine, 76. + +Cloth scarlet, 160. + +-----washing machine, illustration of, 245, 246, 247. + +Cochineal, 156, 259. + +Coffee brown, 165. + +Collodion, 15. + +Colorimetric test for relative value of dyes, 268. + +Colouring matter, 3. + +---- principle of dye-stuff, 156. + +Colour lake, 18. + +---- lakes, 156. + +Columbia black B, 210, 232. + +---- ---- F B, 103, 104, 210, 218. + +---- ---- F B B, 105. + +---- ---- R, 232, 233. + +---- blue G, 224. + +---- green, 101, 146. + +Columbia orange R, 91, 103, 104. + +---- red S, 211. + +---- yellow, 91, 115, 209. + +Comparative dye testing, 262. + +Condensed water, 227. + +Congo blue 2 B, 95. + +---- brown, 210. + +---- ---- G, 210, 217, 218. + +---- Corinth, 232. + +---- ---- B, 99, 209, 211. + +---- ---- G. 89, 211, 217, 224. + +---- dyes, 18, 85, 208, 225. + +---- orange G, 210. + +---- ---- R, 92, 210. + +---- R, 210. + +---- red, 85, 107, 128. + +---- rubine, 89. + +Continuous dyeing machine, 79. + +Cop dyeing, 64. + +Cop-dyeing machine, Beaumont's, 67. + +---- ---- Graemiger, 65, 66. + +---- ---- Mommer's, 69. + +---- ---- Young & Crippin, 68. + +Copper acetate, 177. + +---- logwood black, 177. + +---- nitrate, 177. + +---- soda solution, 180. + +---- sulphate, 112, 164, 166, 177, 181. + +Copperas, 147, 164, 165, 166, 167, 172, 175, 178, 181, 200. + +Cornflower blue, 218, 233. + +Corron's hank-dyeing machine, 63. + +Cotton bleaching, 23. + +---- brown A, 231. + +---- ---- 91, 100, 101, 103, 106, 132, 137, 138, 144, 228. + +---- dyeing, 18. + +---- fibre, 2. + +---- ---- illustration of, 5. + +---- ---- impurities of, 3. + +---- ---- structure of, 4. + +---- ---- structure and chemistry of, 1. + +---- fibres, composition of, 5. + +---- ---- production of colour direct on, 181. + +---- scouring, 23. + +Cotton-silk fabrics, dyeing of, 225. + +Cotton wax, 3. + +---- yellow, 100, 210. + +Coupling process, 139. + +Cream, 91. + +Cresyl blue, 229. +-- fast violet 2 RN, 232. +-- violet, 229. + +Crimson, 130, 135, 151, 155, 217, 219, 230. +-- red, 88, 130. + +Croceine AZ, 223. +-- orange, 128, 211. +-- scarlet, 128, 160. + +Cross-dye black, 79, 107, 121. +-- -- B, 123. +-- -- 2B, 120. +-- drab, 93, 121, 126. + +Cross dyeing, 220. + +Curcumeine, extra, 211, 218, 224. + +Curcumine, 209, 217. +-- S, 103, 104, 223. + +Curcuphenine, 90. + +Cutch, 147, 156, 164, 165, 166, 167, 178, 181, 186. + +Cuticle fibres, 1. + +Cyanole extra, 221, 222, 223, 229, 231, 232, 233, 237. + + +D. + +Damages in bleached goods, 50. + +Dark blue, 95, 96, 97, 98, 115, 116, 136, 139, 142, 153, 154, 155, + 215, 216, 217, 218, 219. +-- -- and green shot dyes, 237. +-- -- and olive shot dyes, 238. +-- bronze, 115. +-- brown, 180, 214, 216, 217, 218, 219, 230, 231. +-- -- and blue shot, 222. +-- -- olive, 165, 166. +-- chestnut, 104. +-- -- brown, 101, 103, 117, 119. +-- cream, 231. +-- crimson, 136, 231. +-- drab, 102, 126, 233. +-- green, 93, 94, 113, 115, 127, 142, 144, 146, 151, 153, + 214, 217, 219, 230. +-- grey, 119, 120, 154, 215, 218, 232. +-- lilac, 146. +-- maroon, 89, 135. +-- navy, 95, 97, 98, 115, 126, 137. +-- olive, 92, 127, 164. +-- -- brown, 118. +-- orange, 91. +-- plum, 87, 99, 116, 138, 166. +-- red, 88, 113. +-- Russian green, 232. +-- sage, 127, 216. +-- scarlet, 153, 155. +-- sea green, 94, 214, 232. +-- slate, 106, 214. +-- stone, 214. +-- turquoise blue, 116. +-- violet, 156. +-- walnut, 216. +-- -- brown, 103. +-- yellow, 90. + +"Dead" cotton fibres, 4. + +Deep black, 104. +-- blue, 97, 126. +-- brown, 104, 118, 231. +-- chestnut brown, 102, 136. +-- crimson, 89, 232. +-- green, 94. +-- leaf green, 233. +-- olive brown, 180. +-- orange, 92, 135, 214, 230. +-- -- yellow, 230. +-- pink, 88. +-- rose, 230, 233. + +Delahunty's dyeing machine, 57, 58. + +Delta purpurine, 107. +-- -- 5 B, 210. + +Developing, 131. +--machine for paranitroaniline red, 194. + +Diamine azo blue, 2 B, 233. +-- -- -- R, 145. +-- -- -- 2 R, 237, 238. +-- -- -- RR, 136, 137. +-- black B, 227, 232. +-- -- B H. 104, 106, 118, 136, 137, 138, 210, 215, 216, 237. +-- -- B O, 92, 100, 139, 210. +-- -- H W, 92, 93, 94, 95, 97, 102, 103, 104, 130, 132, 209, 214, 215, + 228, 230, 231, 233. +-- -- R O, 87, 92, 93, 95, 100, 101, 104, 106, 138, 139, 146, 210, 228. +-- blue, 112. 132. +-- -- 2 B, 210. +-- -- 3 B, 92, 98, 210, 227. +-- -- B B, 227. +-- -- B G, 96, 210, 228. +-- -- B X, 102, 209, 210, 228. +-- -- C B, 228. +-- -- G, 209. + +Diamine blue 3 R, 95, 100, 115, 116, 117, 119, 210, 228. +-- -- R W, 95, 98, 113, 114, 117, 120, 209, 210, 228, 230. +-- -- black E, 97, 210, 228. +-- -- -- R, 102. +-- Bordeaux, 87. +-- -- B, 89, 210, 215, 216, 228. +-- -- S, 210, 228, 231, 233. +-- brilliant blue G, 96, 99, 115, 145, 210, 215, 216, 223, 227. +-- bronze G, 91, 93, 100, 106, 114, 115, 118, 139, 144, 210, 214, + 228, 231, 232, 233. +-- brown, 112, 132. +-- -- B, 209, 228. +-- -- G, 104, 119, 209, 210. +-- -- 3 G, 209, 228, 230. +-- -- M, 90, 95, 102, 104, 118, 119, 138, 216, 217, 228, 231, 232. +-- -- N, 209, 217, 231, 233. +-- -- S, 210. +-- -- V, 92, 98, 138, 143, 144, 210, 228, 233. +-- -- Y, 92. +-- catechine B, 101, 102, 103, 114, 117, 210, 216. +-- -- G, 89, 94, 101, 102, 103, 113, 117, 209, 210. +-- colours, 227. +-- cutch, 130, 132, 136, 137, 138. +-- dark blue B, 114, 116, 118, 120, 209, 210, 216, 217, 228, 231, 233. +-- -- green N, 93. +-- deep black Cr, 96. +-- -- -- RB, 104. +-- dyes, 18, 85, 208, 225. +-- fast red, F, 87, 89, 90, 113, 118, 209, 228, 230. +-- -- yellow A, 90, 92, 114, 115, 116, 136, 137, 143, 144, 210, 213, 223, + 227, 232, 233, 235, 237, 238. +-- -- -- B, 89, 91, 92, 94, 97, 98, 113, 114, 117, 118, 119, 120, 138, 209, + 214, 215, 216, 223, 228, 231, 232. +-- gold, 100, 210, 213, 228, 230, 231, 232. +-- green B, 93, 97, 115, 146, 209, 214, 228, 230, 235. +-- -- G, 94, 209, 210, 228. +-- grey G, 106, 143, 228, 232. +-- jet black, 139. +-- -- -- Cr, 105, 118, 120, 121. +-- -- -- O O, 144. +-- -- -- R B, 105, 120. +-- new blue R, 98, 116, 120, 210. +-- nitrazol black B, 143, 144. +-- -- brown B, 143, 210. +-- -- -- G, 143, 210. +-- -- dye, 139. +-- orange, 132. +-- -- B, 89, 92, 114, 117, 118, 119, 120, 209, 215, 216, 217, 228, 230. +-- -- D, 210. +-- -- D C, 223, 227, 231, 233, 237, 238. +-- -- F, 209. +-- -- G, 91, 102, 210, 214, 215, 221, 222, 231. +-- -- G D, 104. +-- -- G G, 227, 233. +-- red, 107. +-- -- B, 210. +-- -- 4 B, 209. +-- -- 5 B, 88, 89, 103, 209, 215, 228. +-- -- 6 B, 209. +-- -- 10 B, 88, 89, 146, 209, 230. +-- -- N, 87. +-- -- N O, 210. +-- rose, 223. +-- -- B D, 88, 209, 215, 228, 230, 233. +-- -- G D, 99. +-- scarlet, 107. +-- -- B, 91, 106, 210, 215, 228. +-- -- 3 B, 88, 210, 228. +-- -- H S, 230. +-- -- S, 228. +-- sky blue, 94, 97, 98, 145, 210, 215, 222, 237, 238. +-- -- -- F F, 94, 96, 98, 114, 115, 210, 222, 223, 227, 232. +-- steel blue L, 96, 210, 214, 222, 228. +-- violet N, 87, 99, 100, 145, 146, 210, 223, 228, 231, 238. +-- yellow, 92. +-- yellow N, 90, 92, 93, 100, 113, 228, 230. + +Diamineral blue R, 95, 116, 227, 238. + +Diaminogene, 234, 235. +-- B, 138, 228, 234, 235. +-- blue B B, 136, 138. +-- extra, 143, 228, 234, 235. + +Dianil black C R, 97, 119, 142. +-- -- N, 118, 120, 121. +-- blue B, 94, 97, 98, 116, 142. +-- -- G, 98, 113. +-- -- 2 K, 94. +-- -- 4 R, 99, 116. +-- brown B D, 119, 142. +-- -- G 0, 142. +-- -- 3 G O, 103, 118, 119, 142, 143. +-- -- R, 102, 103, 118, 119, 142. +-- -- T, 102. +-- claret B, 89, 99, 145. +-- -- G, 89. +-- dark blue R, 94, 95, 97, 116, 142, 143. +-- -- -- 3 R, 97, 142. +-- -- brown, 103. +-- olive, 93. +-- orange G, 89, 92. +-- -- 2 R, 92. +-- red 4 B, 89, 145. +-- scarlet G, 145. +-- yellow, 94. +-- -- G, 91, 98. +-- -- 3 G, 91, 94, 113. +-- -- R, 94, 113. +-- -- 2 R, 91. + +Dianisidine blue, 197. + +Diazo-benzene chloride, 181. + +Diazo black. 132, 139. +-- blue, 132. +-- brown, 130, 139. +-- compounds, 181. +-- liquor, 190. + +Diazotisation, 129. +-- of amido bases, 182. + +Diazotised paranitroaniline, 140. + +_Dictionary of Coal-tar Colours_, 259. + +Dinitroso-resorcine, 179. + +Diphenyl brown B N, 103. + +Direct deep black E extra, 104. + +Direct dyeing, 85. +-- dyes, 83. +-- -- fastness of, 106. +-- fast brown B, 144. +-- indigo blue, 98. +-- orange R, 210. +-- red, test of, 265. +-- triamine black G X, 104. +-- yellow G, 90, 106, 210. + +Divi-divi, 147, 148, 239. + +Drab, 93, 165, 216, 218, 219, 231. + +Drying cylinders, 255. +-- of dyed goods, 249. + +Dull lilac, 99. +-- violet, 100. + +Dye-beck, 77. + +Dye-house washing machine, 244, 246. + +Dyeing apparatus, 263. +-- of basic dyes, 149. +-- machinery, 53, 57. +-- on metallic mordants, 156. +-- test for relative value of dyes, 267. + +Dye-jigger, 72, 73. + +Dyers' bleach, 24. + +Dye-tank, illustration of, 54. + +Dye-tub, illustration of, 54. + +Dye-vat, section of, 56. + + +E. + +Eboli blue B, 231. +-- green T, 230. + +Emerald tint, 154. + +Eosine, 84, 229. + +Eosines, dyeing with, 158, 159. + +Erie blue B X, 97. +-- -- 2 G, 210. + +Erika B, 87. +-- B N, 99, 100, 210, 224. + +Erythrosine, 229. +-- B, 238. + +Erythrosines, 160. + +Experimental dye-bath, 263. +-- dyeing, 262. + + +F. + +Farmer's washing machine, 36. + +Fast acid green, 229. +-- -- -- B N, 222. +-- blue developer A D, 133. +-- brown, 164. +-- neutral violet B, 154, +-- yellow S, 223, 237, 238. + +Fastness of colours, 260. +-- of colours to light and air, 260 +-- of colours to rubbing, 261. +-- of colours to washing, 261. +-- of direct dyes, 106. + +Fatty acids, 3. + +Fawn, 165. +-- brown, 167. +-- drab, 100, 216. + +Fiery yellowish red, 186. + +First green liquor, 168. + +Fixation, 149. +-- with couplers, 139. +-- -- developers, 128. +-- -- metallic salts, 112. + +Flavo-purpurine, 171. + +Formyl blue B, 211. +-- violet, 84, 229, 233. +-- -- 6 B, 211. +-- -- 10 B, 211. +-- -- S 4 B, 211, 214, 215, 216, 222, 231, 237, 238. + +Full blue, 43, 97. +-- yellow orange, 186. + +Furnival's Square beater, 30. + +Fustic, 156, 157, 166, 178, 259. +-- extract, 164, 165, 166, 167, 175, 176, 181. + + +G. + +Gallipoli oil, 168. + +Galls, 147, 148. + +Gambier, 147. + +Glauber's salt, 83, 108, 111, 209, 214, 215, 221, 222, 223, + 225, 231, 234, 237. + +Glycerine, 180. + +Gold and green shot dyes, 221. +-- brown, 100, 101, 102, 103, 138, 142, 143, 153, 216, 230. +-- -- and blue shot, 222. +-- drab, 232. +-- orange, 214. +-- yellow, 91, 113, 130, 142, 230. + +Good yellow, 213. + +Graemiger cop-dyeing machine, 65, 66. + +Grass green, 93. + +Green, 92, 93, 94, 114, 130, 143, 145, 151, 180, 215. +-- and buff shot, 223. +-- and claret shot, 222. +-- and pink shot dyes, 238. +-- and orange shot, 224. +-- and red shot, 223, 224. +-- blue, 98. +-- grey, 106, 120. +-- olive, 92. +-- yellow, 91. + +Greening operation, 168. + +Grey, 106, 120, 153, 219. +-- and orange shot, 223. +-- blue, 96. +-- lilac, 99, 153. +-- slate, 166. +-- sour operation, 32. + +Grothe, 252. + +Ground fustic, 166. + +Guinea green B, 211, 218, 224. +-- violet B, 224. +-- -- 4 B, 211, 218. + +Gum tragacanth, 192. + +Gun cotton, 13. + + +H. + +Half-silk fabrics, dyeing of, 225. + +Hand dyeing, 53. + +Hank bleaching, 45. + +Hank-dyeing machine. Corron's, 63. +-- -- Klauder-Weldon's, 61, 62. + +Hank-wringing machines, 241. + +Havanna brown, 166. + +Hawking machine, Holliday's, 78. + +Hawthorne's washing machine, 36. + +Heliotrope, 99, 233. +-- B B, 90, 146. +-- 2 B, 99, 233. + +Hessian brown 2 M, 98. +-- -- 2 B N, 100, 231. +-- grey S, 231. +-- purple N, 230. +-- violet, 211. + +Hoffman violet, 152. + +Holliday, 182. + +Holliday's hawking machine, 78. +-- yarn-dyeing machine, 60. + +Hurst's _Silk Dyeing_, 225. + +Hydrocellulose, 12. + +Hydrochloric acid, 177, 183, 184, 190. +-- -- action of, 11. + +Hydro-extractors, 251, 252. + +Hydrosulphite indigo vat, 204. + + +I. + +Immedial black, 107, 121. +-- blacks, 79. +-- blue, 121. +-- -- C, 125. + +Immedial bronze A, 128. +-- -- B, 128. +-- brown, 121. + +Impregnation with dye-stuff solution, 198. + +Indamine blue N, 154. + +Indazine, 229. + +Indian yellow G, 211, 213, 214, 216, 217, 222, 229, 231. +-- -- R, 211, 213, 214, 229, 231, 232. + +Indigo, 18, 20, 198. +-- blue, 152, 154. +-- -- N, 229, 233. +-- -- S G N, 229. +-- carmine, 165. +-- dyed goods, test of, 258. +-- dyeing, 199. +-- dye-vat for cloth, 199. +-- extract, 84, 167. +-- white, 200. + +Indigotin, 198. + +Indophenol, 205. + +Induline, 229. + +Irisamine G, 152, 153. + +Iron, 157. +-- liquor, 172, 175, 176, 180. +-- mordants, 259. +-- stains, 50. +-- sulphate, 112. + + +J. + +Janus black I, 219. +-- -- II, 219. +-- blue G, 155. +-- -- R, 155, 219. +-- brown B, 156, 219. +-- -- R, 219, 220. +-- claret red B, 156, 219. +-- dark blue B, 219. +-- dyes, 155, 218. +-- green B, 155, 219, 220. +-- grey B, 156. +-- -- BB, 219, 220. +-- red B, 155, 219. +-- yellow G, 219. +-- -- R, 155, 156, 219, 220. + +Jet black, 121. + +Jigger, 72. + +Jig-wince, 74, 75. + + +K. + +Katigen black, 121. +-- brown, 107, 121. +-- dark brown, 128. +-- green, 121. +-- olive G, 127. + +Khaki, 180. +-- shades, 248. + +Kiers, 30. + +Klauder-Weldon hank-dyeing machine, 61, 62. + + +L. + +Lanacyl blue B B, 211. +-- violet B, 211, 217. + +Leaf green, 94, 113, 114, 231. + +Lehner's process for making silk, 15. + +Lemon yellow, 91. + +Leuco, 198. + +Light blue, 115, 138. +-- brown, 101, 103, 117. +-- chestnut brown, 137. +-- green, 114, 143. +-- grey, 106. +-- indigo blue, 96. +-- plum, 99. +-- sage brown, 118. +-- seal brown, 102. +-- slate, 106. + +Lilac, 98, 99. +-- red, 87. +-- rose, 233. + +Lima wood, 178, 179. + +Lime, 169, 202. +-- and copperas vat for indigo dyeing, 200. +-- boil for cotton, 28. +-- sour operation, 32. + +Logwood, 18, 84, 156, 157, 165, 167, 234, 259. +-- black, 79, 174. +-- -- dyeing on yarn in hanks, 175. +-- decoction, 177. +-- dyed goods, test of, 258. +-- extract, 164, 175, 176, 181. +-- greys, 178. + +Loose wool and cotton, washing of, 244. + +Lye boil operation. 34. + + +M. + +Machinery for dyeing, 53, 57. + +Madder, 157. +-- bleach, 24. + +Magenta, 18, 147, 153, 229, 231, 232, 233. + +Malachite green, 146, 152, 153, 229, 232. + +Mandarine G, 211, 217, 218, 224. + +Market bleach, 24, 38, 39. + +Maroon, 89, 138, 153, 215, 233. + +Mather & Platt's apparatus, 207. +-- -- bleaching kier, 30, 31. +-- -- machine, 246. +-- -- washing machine, 36. +-- -- yarn-bleaching kier, 49. + +Mercerisation of cotton, 8. + +Mercerised cotton fibres, illustrations of, 7, 9. + +Mercer, John, 8, 21. + +Metallic mordants, 156. + +Metanitroaniline, 185, 186, 187, 188. +-- orange, 195. + +Metaphenylene blue, 229. +-- -- B, 154, 233. + +Methylene blue, 17. +-- -- B B, 153. +-- -- 2 B, 153. +-- -- N, 232. +-- grey B F, 153. + +Methylindone B, 229, 231. +-- R, 229. + +Methyl violet, 18, 229. +-- -- B, 146, 151, 231. +-- -- 2 B, 146. +-- -- R, 146. +-- -- 3R, 146. +-- -- 4R, 152. + +Mikado brown, 227. +-- -- 2 B, 238. +-- -- 3 G O, 230. +-- -- M, 103, 230, 232. +-- dyes, 18. +-- golden yellow 8 G, 230, 231. +-- orange, 227. +-- -- G, 91. +-- -- 4 R, 91, 102. +-- -- R O, 232. +-- -- 3 R O, 231. +-- -- 4 R O, 218, 224. +-- -- 5 R O, 230, 238. +-- yellow, 227. +-- -- G, 230. + +Milk of lime, 28, 175. + +Milling orange, 229. +-- yellow, 229. + +Mimosa, 209. + +Mixed cotton and wool fabrics, dyeing of, 208. + +Mommer's cop-dyeing machine, 69. + +Mordant dyes, 84. + +Mordants, 156. +-- detection of, 259. + +Moss brown, 143, 232. + +Muslin bleaching, 41. + +Myrabolam, 147, 148, 239. +-- extract, 175, 176. + + +N. + +Naphthol, 184. + +-- -azo-benzene, 181. +-- black, 128. +-- -- B, 223. +-- -- 3 B, 222. +-- blue black, 211, 214, 215, 216, 217, 222, 234. +-- -- G, 211, 222. +-- -- R, 211. +-- colours, 182. +-- D, 192. +-- X, 192. +-- yellow S, 229, 238, 278. + +Naphthylamine, 13, 132, 133, 184. +-- black, 235. +-- -- 4 B, 211. +-- -- 6 B, 211, 217. +-- -- D, 211. +-- ether, 130. + +Naphtindone B B, 153. + +Navy, 97, 98, 154. +-- blue, 96, 214, 216, 217. + +Neutral grey, 132. +-- -- G, 99, 106. +-- violet, 229. + +New blue D, 229. +-- methylene blue, 234, 235. +-- -- -- G G, 238. +-- -- -- M, 232. +-- -- -- N, 126, 145, 154, 229, 231, 233. +-- -- -- N X, 154. +-- -- -- R, 153, 154, 233. +-- -- -- 3 R, 145, 153. +-- -- grey B, 153. +-- -- -- G, 154. +-- phosphine G. 153, 154, 229, 232. +-- Victoria blue B, 146, 151, 152. + +Nigraniline, 206. + +Nigrosine, 229. + +Nitrate of copper, 177. +-- of iron, 166, 175. + +Nitrazol C, 139, 141, 193. + +Nitric acid, action of, on cotton, 12. + +Nitrite of soda, 183. + +Nitro-aniline, 183. + +Nitro-benzene, 13. + +Nitro-naphthalene, 13. + +Nitro-para-toluidine, 185, 187, 188. + +Nitrosamine, 193. +-- red, 195. + +Nitroso-resorcine, 18. + +Nitrous acid, 184. + +Nut brown, 103, 118, 119, 218, 219. + + +O. + +Oak bark, 147. + +Obermaier machine, 57, 59. + +Oil stains, 50. + +Old gold, 90, 232. + +Olive, 92, 93, 127, 143, 164. +-- and blue shot dyes, 238. +-- brown, 143, 154. +-- green, 114, 142, 144, 153. +-- oil, 170. +-- yellow, 91. + +Orange, 84, 91, 113, 130, 137, 151, 153, 154, 155, 215, 217. +-- and blue shot, 224, 238. +-- and violet shot, 223, 238. +-- brown, 102. +-- E N Z, 211, 214, 217, 222. +-- extra, 211, 223, 232. +-- G G, 221, 222, 231, 232, 233, 238. +-- T A, 218. +-- yellow, 143, 186. + +Orthoamidoazotoluol, 186, 187, 188. + +Orthonitrotoluidine, 196. + +Oxidising agents, action of, on cotton, 16. + +Oxycellulose, 16. + +Oxydiamine black A, 97, 105, 209. +-- -- B M, 209, 215, 216, 217. +-- -- D, 209, 228, 233, 234. +-- -- M, 209. +-- -- N, 91, 97. +-- -- N R, 105. +-- -- S O O O, 210, 228, 231, 233. +-- orange G, 104, 209. +-- -- R, 92, 104, 143, 144, 209. +-- red S, 209. +-- violet B, 99, 100, 210, 214, 228, 230, 231, 233. +-- -- G, 99, 100. +-- yellow G G, 94, 146, 209. + +Oxydianil yellow, 143. + +Oxymuriate of tin, 166. + +Oxyphenine, 91, 102, 209. + + +P. + +Padding machine, 80, 81, 193, 221. + +Pale blue, 95, 97. +-- brown, 102, 119, 122, 128, 164, 180. +-- chamois, 166. +-- chestnut, 143. +-- drab, 233. +-- fawn brown, 119, 130. +-- -- red, 89. +-- gold yellow, 213. +-- green, 94, 151. +-- greenish grey, 120. +-- leaf green, 113. +-- lilac, 99. +-- nut brown, 102. +-- olive brown, 100. +-- -- green, 113. +-- orange, 91, 92, 135. +-- sage, 144. +-- -- green, 217. +-- salmon, 87. +-- sea green, 127, 232. +-- sky blue, 95. +-- walnut brown, 104. + +Palm oil soap, 169. + +Paramine blue B, 96. +-- -- black S, 96. +-- brown C, 117. +-- -- G, 101. +-- indigo blue, 96. +-- navy blue R, 96. + +Paranitroaniline, 185, 186, 187, 188, 190. +-- brown, 196. +-- red, 186, 188, 189. +-- -- dyed cotton, 196. +-- -- dye-tub, 191. +-- -- on piece goods, 192. +-- -- on yarn, 189. +-- -- with azophor red P N, 195. +-- -- with nitrazol C, 195. + +Paratoluidine, 186, 187, 188. + +Parchment paper, 11. + +Paris violet, 152. + +Patent blue, 84. + +Peach wood, 178. + +Peacock green, 214, 216. + +Pea green, 114, 233. + +Pectic acid, 3. + +Permanganate of potash, 17. + +Persian berries, 156, 178, 179. + +Phenetidine, 183. + +Phenol, 130, 132, 133, 181. + +Phenylene diamine, 130, 132, 134, 235, 237. + +Phosphate of soda, 86, 90, 91, 168, 170, 180, 225. + +Piece-dyeing machines, 71. + +Piece goods, drying of, 256. +-- -- washing of, 244. +-- -- wringing of, 241. + +Pink, 87, 88, 89, 152, 215. + +Plate singeing, 27. + +Plum, 99, 145, 146, 215. + +Pluto black B, 108, 144. + +Ponceau B, 164. +-- 3 R B, 211, 217. + +Potash, 86. + +Primrose, 91, 154. + +Primuline, 130, 131, 132, 135, 136, 138, 142, 143, 144, 209. + +Production of colour direct on cotton fibres, 181. + +Prussiate black, 207. + +Pure blue, 238. +-- soluble blue, 237. + +Purple brown, 100. + +Purpuramine, D H, 107. + +Pyrolignite of iron, 172. + +Pyroxyline, 13. + + +Q. + +Quercitron, 156, 178, 179. +-- bark, 178. +-- extract, 164, 165. + +Quicklime, 200. + + +R. + +Rayer & Lincoln machine, 26. + +Read Holliday's squeezing machine, 241. + +Red, 136, 187. +-- brown, 100, 135. +-- chocolate, 119. +-- developer C, 192. +-- drab, 165. +-- lilac, 100. +-- liquor, 165, 166, 169, 170, 176, +-- orange, 91. +-- plum, 117, 214. +-- violet, 99, 116, 152, 155, 156. + +Reddish brown, 102. +-- puce, 187. + +Reseda, 93. +-- green, 167. + +Resin boil, 35. +-- soap liquor, 35. + +Resorcine, 130, 132, 133, 235. +-- green, 156. + +Rhodamine, 229, 231. +-- B, 153, 233. +-- G, 152. +-- 6 G, 152. +-- S, 237. + +Rhoduline violet, 151. + +Rocceleine, 211. + +Roller squeezing machines for yarn, 241. + +Rose azurine B, 87. +-- G, 87, 90. +-- bengale, 229. +-- lilac, 145, 151. +-- pink, 87. +-- red, 88, 89. + +Rosophenine, 5 B, 88. + +Russia green, 92, 113, 143, 153. + + +S. + +Safranine, 18, 146, 153, 221, 229, 231, 233. +-- G, 146. +-- prima, 153. +-- S, 155. + +Sage, 214. +-- brown, 104, 119, 135, 144, 218. +-- green, 93, 180, 230. + +St. Dennis black, 121. + +Saline salts, quantity used, 108. + +Salmon, 89. + +Salt, 165. + +Satin fabrics, dyeing of, 225. + +Scarlet, 88, 89, 135, 145, 146, 152, 153, 155, 215, 217, 230. +-- R, 220. + +Schaeffer's acid, 134. + +Scouring cotton, 23. + +Sea green, 94, 151. + +Seal brown, 146. + +Seed hairs, 1. + +Shot effects, 220. +-- on satin, dyeing of, 235. +-- with black cotton warp, 236. + +Silver grey, 106. + +Singeing of cotton, 27. +-- wash of cotton, 28. + +Sky blue, 95, 98, 151, 215. + +Slate, 106, 218, 231, 233. +-- blue, 97, 120, 152, 216. +-- green, 218. + +Sliver dyeing, 58. + +Slubbing dyeing, 58. + +Soap, 165. +-- effect on dye-stuffs, 226. + +Soaping of dyed goods, 247. + +Soda, 86, 132, 178. +-- ash, 34, 166. +-- crystals, 169. +-- lye, 202, 235. +-- zinc vat for indigo dyeing, 204. + +Sodium acetate, 196. +-- bichromate, 164. +-- nitrite solution, 196, 198. +-- stannate, preparing with, 158. + +Solid blue, 229. +-- green, 229. +-- O, 179, 180. + +Solidogen A, 145. + +Soluble blue, 150, 160, 229. + +Spencer's hank-wringing machine, 241. + +Squeezing rollers, 240. + +Stains in bleached goods, 50. + +Steam aniline black, 207. +-- -- blacks, 248. + +Steaming and ageing chamber, 250. +-- cottage, illustration of, 249. +-- of dyed goods, 248. + +Stearic acid, 3. + +Stitching of cotton, 25. + +Stone, 218. + +Structure of cotton fibre, 1. + +Sulfaniline black, 121. +-- -- G, 124. +-- brown, 121. +-- -- 4 B, 127. + +Sulphate of copper, 177. +-- of iron, 167. + +Sulphonates, 182. + +Sulphon azurine B, 210, 217, 218. +-- D, 93. + +Sulphur colours, 121. + +Sulphuric acid, 166. +-- action of, on cotton, 10. + +Sulphyl colours, 121. + +Sumac, 83, 147, 148, 165, 166, 167, 172, 173, 178, 239. +-- extract, 169, 175, 219, 220. + +Sun yellow, 90. + + +T. + +Tannic acid, 18, 20, 83, 147, 172. +-- mordant, dyeing on, 147. + +Tannin, 173, 174, 236. +-- grounding, 173. +-- heliotrope, 145, 153, 229. +-- orange R, 154, 155, 229. + +Tanning, 148. + +Tartar emetic, 147, 192, 219, 220. + +Tartaric acid, 180. + +Temperature of dye-baths, 226. + +Terra-cotta brown, 143. +-- red, 90, 143. + +Testing of the colour of dyed fabrics, 257. + +Thiazole yellow, 93, 94, 209. + +Thiocarmine R, 84, 211, 214. + +Thioflavine S, 94, 104, 106, 209, 213, 215, 222, 223, 228, 229. +-- T, 153, 154, 229, 231, 232. + +Tin crystals, 147, 169, 179. +-- oxide, fixing, 158. + +Titan blue, 210, 211. +-- -- 3 B, 93, 102, 164. +-- -- R, 102. +-- brown O, 210. +-- -- P, 164. +-- -- R, 102, 210. +-- -- Y, 161, 210. +-- colours, 227. +-- como G, 95. +-- -- S N, 98. +-- dyes, 18, 85. +-- gold, 101, 102. +-- ingrain blue, 135, 136, 142. +-- marine blue, 211. +-- navy R, 98. +-- orange, 88. +-- -- N, 95. +-- pink, 210. +-- red, 107. +-- scarlet C, 88. +-- -- D, 88. +-- -- S, 209. +-- yellow, 210. +-- -- G, 145. +-- -- G G, 90. + +Titan yellow Y, 90, 92, 93, 164. + +Toluidine, 185, 187, 188. +-- orange, 196. + +Toluylene brown, 139. +-- diamine, 134. +-- orange, 139. +-- --G, 90, 91, 100. +-- --K, 100. + +Topping, 140. +-- with acid and basic dye-stuffs, 228. +-- with basic dyes, 145. + +Triamine black, 132. +-- -- B, 96, 137. +-- -- B T, 98. + +Tropaeoline O, 229. +-- O O, 211, 229. + +Truck yarn-dyer, 254, 255. + +Turkey red, 87, 167, 181. +-- -- bleach, 38, 39. +-- -- oil, 88, 90, 95, 96, 160, 170, 171, 172, 173, 180, 189, 192, 196. + +Turmeric, 165, 166, 167. + +Turquoise blue, 98, 116, 151, 155, 232. +-- -- G, 146, 151, 152. + + +U. + +Union black B, 209, 214. +-- -- S, 209, 214, 215, 216, 217, 228, 234. +-- blue B B, 209. + + +V. + +Valonia, 147. + +Verdigris, 177. + +Victoria blue, 150. +-- -- B, 151, 152. + +Vidal black, 107, 121, 123. +-- blacks, 79. + +Violet, 99, 100, 146, 154, 230. +-- and yellow shot dyes, 238. +-- blue, 97. + + +W. + +Walnut brown, 102, 119, 138, 142, 219, 233. + +Warp bleaching, 43. + +Warp-dyeing machines, 69, 70, 71. + +Washing after dyeing, 239. + +Washing and soaping vats, illustration of, 248. +-- of cotton in bleaching, 36. +-- operations after dyeing, 242. + +Water blue, 229. +-- of condition, 6. +-- volume used in dyeing, 107. + +White indigo, 198. +-- liquor treatment, 168. +-- sour operation, 38. + +Whizzing, 45. + +Willesden waterproof cloths, 22. + +Wince dye beck, 74. + +Witz, George, 17. + +Wool black 6 B, 211, 217, 218, 223, 224. +-- green, 84. + +Worral's singeing machine, 27. + +Wringing of dyed goods, 239. + + +Y. + +Yarn bleaching, 43. +-- -washing machine, illustration of, 243. + +Yarns in cop form, washing of, 244. +-- in hanks, washing of, 244. +-- in hanks, wringing of, 240. + +Yellow, 90, 91, 113, 151. +-- and violet shot dyes, 237. +-- olive, 91. + +Yellowish claret red, 187. + +Young & Crippin's cop-dyeing machine, 68. + + +Z. + +Zambesi black, 132. +-- -- B, 210, 218. +-- -- B R, 97. +-- -- D, 103, 104, 218. +-- -- F, 115, 119, 210. +-- blue, 130, +-- -- B X, 136. +-- -- R X, 217, 218. +-- brown, 130. +-- -- G, 210. +-- -- 2 G, 136, 210. +-- dyes, 85, 208. + +Zinc and lime vat for indigo dyeing, 201. +-- bisulphite indigo vat, 203. +-- chloride, 20. +-- sulphate, 112. + + + * * * * * + + +THE ABERDEEN UNIVERSITY PRESS LIMITED. + +SEPTEMBER, 1901. + +_This Catalogue cancels all former editions._ + +The Publishers seek to issue thoroughly helpful works. These books in +every instance will, they believe, be found of good value. Employers +will do well to place copies of these books in the hands of the bright +and promising young men in their employ, in order the better to equip +them to become increasingly useful as employees. A workman who uses his +brains must be preferable to one who does not _think_ about his work. +Brains require stimulus. These books provide that stimulus. + +A Catalogue + +OF + +Special Technical Works + +FOR + +MANUFACTURERS, PROFESSIONAL MEN, STUDENTS, + +COLLEGES AND TECHNICAL SCHOOLS + +BY EXPERT WRITERS + +FOR THE + +OIL, PAINT, COLOUR VARNISH, SOAP, CHEMICAL, +TEXTILE, LEATHER, PAPER, COLLIERY, POTTERY, +GLASS, PLUMBING AND DECORATING TRADES +AND SCIENTIFIC PROFESSIONS. + +PUBLISHED BY + +=SCOTT, GREENWOOD & CO.,= + +PUBLISHERS OF TECHNICAL BOOKS, + +=19 LUDGATE HILL, LONDON, E.C. + +Tel. Address: "PRINTERIES, LONDON". Tel. No. 5403, Bank.= + +N.B.--_Full Particulars of Contents of any of the following books +sent post free on application._ + +=Messrs. Scott, Greenwood &. Co. are open to make offers +for the publication of technical works.= + + * * * * * + +Books on Oils, Soaps, Colours, Chemicals, Glue, Varnishes, etc. + +THE PRACTICAL COMPOUNDING OF OILS, TALLOW AND GREASE FOR LUBRICATION, +ETC. + +By AN EXPERT OIL REFINER. 100 pp. 1898. Demy 8vo. Price 7s. 6d.; India +and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Introductory Remarks on the General Nomenclature of Oils, +Tallow and Greases suitable for Lubrication.--II., Hydrocarbon +Oils.--III., Animal and Fish Oils.--IV., Compound Oils.--V., Vegetable +Oils.--VI., Lamp Oils.--VII., Engine Tallow, Solidified Oils and +Petroleum Jelly.--VIII., Machinery Greases: Loco and +Anti-friction.--IX., Clarifying and Utilisation of Waste Fats, Oils, +Tank Bottoms, Drainings of Barrels and Drums, Pickings Up, Dregs, +etc.--X., The Fixing and Cleaning of Oil Tanks, etc.--Appendix and +General Information. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "This work is written from the standpoint of the oil trade, but its + perusal will be found very useful by users of machinery and all who + have to do with lubricants in any way."--_Colliery Guardian._ + + "The properties of the different grades of mineral oil and of the + animal and vegetable non-drying oils are carefully described, and + the author justly insists that the peculiarities of the machinery + on which the lubricants are to be employed must be considered + almost before everything else.... The chapters on grease and + solidified oils, etc., are excellent."--_The Ironmonger._ + + * * * * * + +SOAPS. A Practical Manual of the Manufacture of Domestic, Toilet and +other Soaps. By GEORGE H. HURST, F.C.S. Illustrated with Sixty-six +Engravings. 390 pp. 1898. Price 12s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 13s. 6d.; +Other Countries, 15s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Introductory.--II., Soap-maker's Alkalies.--III., Soap Fats +and Oils.--IV., Perfumes.--V., Water as a Soap Material.--VI., Soap +Machinery.--VII., Technology of Soap-making.--VIII., Glycerine in Soap +Lyes.--IX., Laying out a Soap Factory.--X., Soap Analysis.--Appendices. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "We think it is the most practical book on these subjects that has + come to us from England so far."--_American Soap Journal._ + + "Much useful information is conveyed in a convenient and + trustworthy manner which will appeal to practical + soap-makers."--_Chemical Trade Journal._ + + "Works that deal with manufacturing processes, and applied + chemistry in particular, are always welcome. Especially is this the + case when the material presented is so up-to-date as we find it + here."--_Bradford Observer._ + + "The best and most reliable methods of analysis are fully + discussed, and form a valuable source of reference to any works' + chemist.... Our verdict is a capitally produced book, and one that + is badly needed."--_Birmingham Post._ + + * * * * * + +ANIMAL FATS AND OILS: Their Practical Production, Purification and Uses +for a great Variety of Purposes. Their Properties, Falsification and +Examination. A Handbook for Manufacturers of Oil and Fat Products, Soap +and Candle Makers, Agriculturists, Tanners, Margarine Manufacturers, +etc., etc. By LOUIS EDGAR ANDES. Sixty-two Illustrations. 240 pp. 1898. +Demy 8vo. Price 10s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 11s.; Other Countries, +12s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Introduction. Occurrence, Origin, Properties and Chemical Constitution +of Animal Fats Preparation of Animal Fats and Oils. Machinery. +Tallow-melting Plant. Extraction Plant. Presses. Filtering Apparatus. +Butter: Raw Material and Preparation, Properties, Adulterations. Beef +Lard or Remelted Butter, Testing. Candle-fish Oil. Mutton-Tallow. Hare +Fat. Goose Fat. Neatsfoot Oil. Bone Fat: Bone Boiling, Steaming Bones,. +Extraction, Refining. Bone Oil. Artificial Butter: Oleomargarine, +Margarine Manufacture in France, Grasso's Process, "Kaiser's Butter," +Jahr & Muenzberg's Method, Filbert's Process, Winter's Method. Human Fat. +Horse Fat. Beef Marrow. Turtle Oil. Hog's Lard: Raw Material, +Preparation, Properties, Adulterations, Examination. Lard Oil. Fish +Oils. Liver Oils. Artificial Train Oil. Wool Fat: Properties, Purified +Wool Fat. Spermaceti: Examination of Fats and Oils in General. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "The descriptions of technical processes are clear, and the book is + well illustrated and should prove useful."--_Manchester Guardian._ + + "It is a valuable work, not only for the student, but also for the + practical manufacturer of oil and fat products."--_Journal of the + American Chemical Society._ + + "The work is very fully illustrated, and the style throughout is in + strong contrast to that employed in many such treatises, being + simple and clear."--_Shoe and Leather Record._ + + "An important handbook for the 'fat industry,' now a large one. The + explanation of the most scientific processes of production lose + nothing of their clearness in the translation."--_Newcastle + Chronicle._ + + "The latest and most improved forms of machinery are in all cases + indicated, and the many advances which have been made during the + past years in the methods of producing the more common animal + fats--lard, tallow and butter--receive due attention."--_Glasgow + Herald._ + + * * * * * + +=VEGETABLE FATS AND OILS:= Their Practical Preparation, Purification and +Employment for Various Purposes, their Properties, Adulteration and +Examination. A Handbook for Oil Manufacturers and Refiners, Candle, Soap +and Lubricating Oil Makers, and the Oil and Fat Industry in General. +Translated from the German of LOUIS EDGAR ANDES. 94 Illustrations. 320 +pp. 1897. Demy 8vo. Price 10s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 11s.; Other +Countries, 12s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Statistical Data. General Properties of the Vegetable Fats and Oils. +Estimation of the Amount of Oil in Seeds. Table of Vegetable Fats and +Oils, with French and German Nomenclature, Source and Origin and +Percentage of Fat in the Plants from which they are Derived. The +Preparation of Vegetable Fats and Oils: Storing Oil Seeds: Cleaning the +Seed. Apparatus for Grinding Oil Seeds and Fruits. Installation of Oil +and Fat Works. Extraction Method of Obtaining Oils and Fats. Oil +Extraction Installations, Press Moulds, Non-drying Vegetable Oils. +Vegetable drying Oils. Solid Vegetable Fats. Fruits Yielding Oils and +Fats. Wool-softening Oils. Soluble Oils. Treatment of the Oil after +Leaving the Press. Improved Methods of Refining with Sulphuric Acid and +Zinc Oxide or Lead Oxide. Refining with Caustic Alkalies, Ammonia, +Carbonates of the Alkalies, Lime. Bleaching Fats and Oils. Practical +Experiments on the Treatment of Oils with regard to Refining and +Bleaching. Testing Oils and Fats. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "Concerning that and all else within the wide and comprehensive + connection involved, this book must be invaluable to every one + directly or indirectly interested in the matters it treats + of."--_Commerce._ + + "The proprietors of the _Oil and Colourman's Journal_ have not only + placed a valuable and highly interesting book of reference in the + hands of the fats and oils industry in general, but have rendered + no slight service to experimental and manufacturing + chemists."--_Manufacturing Chemist._ + + * * * * * + +=IRON-CORROSION, ANTI-FOULING AND ANTI-CORROSIVE PAINTS.= By LOUIS EDGAR +ANDES. 62 Illustrations. 275 pp. Translated from the German. Demy 8vo. +1900. Price 10s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 11s.; Other Countries, 12s.; +strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Ironrust and its Formation--Protection from Rusting by Paint--Grounding +the Iron with Linseed Oil, etc.--Testing Paints--Use of Tar for Painting +on Iron--Anti-corrosive Paints--Linseed Varnish--Chinese Wood Oil--Lead +Pigments--Iron Pigments--Artificial Iron Oxides--Carbon--Preparation of +Anti-corrosive Paints--Results of Examination of Several Anti-corrosive +Paints--Paints for Ship's Bottoms--Anti-fouling Compositions--Various +Anti-corrosive and Ship's Paints--Official Standard Specifications for +Ironwork Paints--Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "This is a very valuable book, translated from the German, + discussing in detail anti-fouling and anti-corrosive + paints."--_British Mercury._ + + "Will be of great service to paint manufacturers, engineering + contractors, ironfounders, shipbuilders and others."--_Engineer and + Iron Trades Advertiser._ + + "The book before us deals with the subject in a manner at once + practical and scientific, and is well worthy of the attention of + all builders, architects and engineers."--_The Builder._ + + "The book is very readable and full of valuable information, and + bearing in mind the importance of the subject treated, it is one + which engineers will be well advised to procure at an early + date."--_Railway Engineer._ + + "The author goes fully into his subject, and the translator has + been successful in reproducing in another language what he has to + say. There are given in the text numerous illustrations of the + rusting of iron, prepared in the course of a series of personal + experiments on the formation of rust."--_Journal of Gas Lighting._ + + "This work is a very elaborate and useful record of the various + phenomena in connection with the corrosion of iron and its + protection against corrosion.... The book is an exceedingly useful + record of what has been done in connection with iron preservation, + and will undoubtedly prove to be of much value to railway + engineers, shipowners, etc."--_Fairplay._ + + "Herr Andes' book, written purely from a scientific standpoint, + will be particularly useful to iron manufacturers, shipbuilders and + shipowners.... The book is beautifully printed on good paper, and + its appearance does credit to the publishers; the work of + translation has been remarkably well done, the language bearing + none of those irritating traces of Teutonism which disfigure so + many English versions of German technical works."--_The + Ironmonger._ + + "This knowledge is conveyed with characteristic German thoroughness + in this useful work of Herr Andes, which loses nothing of clearness + in Mr. Salter's excellent translation. The causes of rust formation + are examined, the proper methods of cleansing the ironwork + detailed, and the constitution and application of suitable + preventative coverings explained.... The book is a welcome + contribution to technological literature, and will be found worthy + of the careful study of all who are professionally engaged in the + arrangement or superintendence of the class of work dealt + with."--_Western Daily Mercury._ + + "The author explains the nature of rust and its formation, and the + text is illustrated from about fifty photographs. An immense amount + of carefully arranged information follows as to the best methods of + applying anti-corrosive substances and the various pigments most + efficacious for use under all circumstances. The author has + evidently thoroughly investigated and mastered the subject of iron + corrosion, its cause and its prevention; and we regard his book as + of the greatest importance to bridge-builders and makers and users + of structural iron and steel. The book is illustrated throughout + and is admirably indexed and arranged."--_Iron and Steel Trades + Journal._ + + * * * * * + +=THE MANUFACTURE OF ALUM AND THE SULPHATES AND OTHER SALTS OF ALUMINA +AND IRON.= Their Uses and Applications as Mordants in Dyeing and Calico +Printing, and their other Applications in the Arts, Manufactures, +Sanitary Engineering, Agriculture and Horticulture. Translated from the +French of LUCIEN GESCHWIND. 195 Illustrations. Nearly 400 pp. Royal 8vo. +1901. Price 12s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 13s. 6d.; Other Countries, +15s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Part I., =Theoretical Study of Aluminium, Iron, and Compounds of these +Metals.=--Chapters I., Aluminium and its Compounds.--II., Iron and Iron +Compounds. + +Part II., =Manufacture of Aluminium Sulphates and Sulphates of +Iron.=--Chapters III., Manufacture of Aluminium Sulphate and the +Alums.--IV., Manufacture of Sulphates of Iron. + +Part III., =Uses of the Sulphates of Aluminium and Iron.=--Chapters V., +Uses of Aluminium Sulphate and Alums--Application to Wool and +Silk--Preparing and using Aluminium Acetates--Employment of Aluminium +Sulphate in Carbonising Wool--The Manufacture of Lake +Pigments--Manufacture of Prussian Blue--Hide and Leather Industry--Paper +Making--Hardening Plaster--Lime Washes--Preparation of Non-inflammable +Wood, etc.--Purification of Waste Waters.--VI., =Uses and Applications +of Ferrous Sulphate and Ferric Sulphates.=--Dyeing--Manufacture of +Pigments--Writing Inks--Purification of Lighting +Gas--Agriculture--Cotton Dyeing--Disinfectant--Purifying Waste +Liquors--Manufacture of Nordhausen Sulphuric Acid--Fertilising. + +Part IV., =Chemical Characteristics of Iron and Aluminium.=--=Analysis +of Various Aluminous or Ferruginous Products.=--Chapter VII., +Aluminium.--=Analysing Aluminium Products.=--Alunite Alumina--Sodium +Aluminate--Aluminium Sulphate. Chapter VIII., =Iron.=--Analytical +Characteristics of Iron Salts--Analysis of Pyritic Lignite--Ferrous and +Ferric Sulphates--Rouil Mordant--Index. + + * * * * * + +=MANUAL OF AGRICULTURAL CHEMISTRY.= By HERBERT INGLE, F.I.C., Lecturer +on Agricultural Chemistry, the Yorkshire College; Lecturer in the +Victoria University. [_In the press._ + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Introduction.--II., The Atmosphere.--III., The Soil.--IV., +The Reactions occurring in Soils.--V., The Analysis of Soils.--VI., +Manures, Natural.--VII., Manures (continued).--VIII., The Analysis of +Manures.--IX., The Constituents of Plants.--X., The Plant.--XI, +Crops.--XII., The Animal. + + * * * * * + +=LUBRICATING OILS, FATS AND GREASES:= Their Origin, Preparation, +Properties, Uses and Analyses. A Handbook for Oil Manufacturers, +Refiners and Merchants, and the Oil and Fat Industry in General. By +GEORGE H. HURST, F.C.S. Second Edition. Sixty-five Illustrations. 313 +pp. Demy 8vo. 1901. Price 10s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 11s.; Other +Countries, 12s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., =Introductory.= Oils and Fats, Fatty Oils and Fats, +Hydrocarbon Oils, Uses of Oils.--II., =Hydrocarbon Oils.= Distillation, +Simple Distillation, Destructive Distillation, Products of Distillation, +Hydrocarbons, Paraffins, Olefins, Napthenes.--III., =Scotch Shale Oils.= +Scotch Shales, Distillation of Scotch Oils, Shale Retorts, Products of +Distilling Shales. + +Separating Products, Treating Crude Shale Oil, Refining Shale Oil, Shale +Oil Stills, Shale Naphtha Burning Oils, Lubricating Oils, Wax.--IV., +=Petroleum.= Occurrence, Geology, Origin, Composition, Extraction, +Refining, Petroleum Stills, Petroleum Products, Cylinder Oils, Russian +Petroleum, Deblooming Mineral Oils.--V., =Vegetable and Animal Oils.= +Introduction, Chemical Composition of Oils and Fats, Fatty Acids, +Glycerine, Extraction of Animal and Vegetable Fats and Oils, Animal +Oils, Vegetable Oils, Rendering, Pressing, Refining, Bleaching, Tallow, +Tallow Oil, Lard Oil, Neatsfoot Oil, Palm Oil, Palm Nut Oil, Cocoa-nut +Oil, Castor Oil, Olive Oil, Rape and Colza Oils, Arachis Oil, Niger Seed +Oil, Sperm Oils, Whale Oil, Seal Oil, Brown Oils, Lardine, Thickened +Rape Oil.--VI., =Testing and Adulteration of Oils.= Specific Gravity, +Alkali Tests, Sulphuric Acid Tests, Free Acids in Oils, Viscosity Tests, +Flash and Fire Tests, Evaporation Tests, Iodine and Bromide Tests, +Elaidin Test, Melting Point of Fat, Testing Machines.--VII., +=Lubricating Greases.= Rosin Oil, Anthracene Oil, Making Greases, +Testing and Analysis of Greases.--VIII., =Lubrication.= Friction and +Lubrication, Lubricant, Lubrication of Ordinary Machinery, Spontaneous +Combustion of Oils, Stainless Oils, Lubrication of Engine Cylinders, +Cylinder Oils.--=Appendices.= A. Table of Baume's Hydrometer--B. Table +of Thermometric Degrees--C. Table of Specific Gravities of +Oils--=Index.= + +=Press Opinions.= + + "The book is well printed, and is a credit alike to author, printer + and publisher."--_Textile Mercury._ + + "It will be a valuable addition to the technical library of every + steam user's establishment." --_Machinery Market._ + + "Mr. Hurst has in this work supplied a practical treatise which + should prove of especial value to oil dealers, and also, though in + a less degree, to oil users."--_Textile Manufacturer._ + + "This is a clear and concise treatment of the method of + manufacturing and refining lubricating oils.... The book is one + which is well worthy the attention of readers who are users of + oil."--_Textile Recorder._ + + "We have no hesitation in saying that in our opinion this book + ought to be very useful to all those who are interested in oils, + whether as manufacturers or users of lubricants, or to those + chemists or engineers whose duty it may be to report upon the + suitability of the same for any particular class of + work."--_Engineer._ + + "The author is widely known and highly respected as an authority on + the chemistry of oils and the technics of lubrication, and it is + safe to say that no work of similar interest or equal value to the + general oil-selling and consuming public has heretofore appeared in + the English language."--_Drugs, Oils and Paints,_ U.S.A. + + "This valuable and useful work, which is both scientific and + practical, has been written with a view of supplying those who deal + in and use oils, etc., for the purpose of lubrication, with some + information respecting the special properties of the various + products which cause these various oils to be of value as + lubricants."--_Industries and Iron._ + + "A mere glance at the table of contents is sufficient to show how + various are the conditions to which these materials have to be + applied, how much knowledge is required for the selection of the + right kind for each particular purpose, and how by processes of + mixture or manufacture the requisite qualities are obtained in each + case."--_Manchester Guardian._ + + * * * * * + +=AMMONIA AND ITS COMPOUNDS:= Their Manufacture and Uses. By CAMILLE +VINCENT, Professor at the Central School of Arts and Manufactures, +Paris. Translated from the French by M. J. SALTER. Royal 8vo. 113 pp. +1901. Thirty-two Illustrations. Price 5s.; India and Colonies, 5s. 6d.; +Other Countries, 6s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., =General Considerations=: Sections 1. Various Sources of +Ammoniacal Products; 2. Human Urine as a Source of Ammonia. II., +=Extraction of Ammoniacal Products from Sewage=: Sections 1. +Preliminary Treatment of Excreta in the Settling Tanks--The Lencauchez +Process, The Bilange Process, The Kuentz Process; 2. Treatment of the +Clarified Liquors for the Manufacture of Ammonium Sulphate--The Figuera +Process and Apparatus, Apparatus of Margueritte and Sourdeval, The Lair +Apparatus, Apparatus of Sintier and Muhe, Apparatus of Bilange, The +Kuentz Process, Process and Apparatus of Hennebutte and De Vaureal; 3. +Treatment of Entire Sewage--Chevalet's Apparatus, Paul Mallet's +Apparatus, Lencauchez's Apparatus. III., =Extraction of Ammonia from Gas +Liquor=: Sections 1. Clarification of Gas Liquor; 2. Manufacture of +Ammonium Sulphate--A. Mallet's Apparatus, A. Mallet's Modified +Apparatus, Paul Mallet's Apparatus, Chevalet's Apparatus, Grueneberg's +Apparatus; 3. Concentration of Gas Liquor--Solvay's Apparatus, Kuentz's +Apparatus, Grueneberg's Apparatus. IV., Manufacture of Ammoniacal +Compounds from Bones, Nitrogenous Waste, Beetroot Wash and Peat=: +Sections 1. Ammonia from Bones: 2. Ammonia from Nitrogenous Waste +Materials; 3. Ammonia from Beetroot Wash (Vinasse): 4. Ammonia from +Peat--Treatment of the Ammoniacal Liquors. V., =Manufacture of Caustic +Ammonia, and Ammonium Chloride, Phosphate and Carbonate=: Sections 1. +Manufacture of Caustic Ammonia; 2. Manufacture of Ammonium +Chloride--From Fermented Urine, Process of the Lesage Company, Kuentz's +Process; From Gas Liquor, English Process, Kuentz's Process; From the +Dry Distillation of Animal Matter; From Ammonium Sulphate, Sublimation; +3. Ammonium Phosphates; 4. Carbonates of Ammonium--Sesquicarbonate from +Animal Matter, English Process. Uses. VI., =Recovery of Ammonia from the +Ammonia-Soda Mother Liquors=: Sections 1. General Considerations; 2. +Apparatus of Schloesing and Rolland; 3. Apparatus of the Societe Anonyme +de l'Est.--=Index.= + + * * * * * + +=THE MANUFACTURE OF VARNISHES, OIL REFINING AND BOILING, AND KINDRED +INDUSTRIES.= Describing the Manufacture of Spirit Varnishes and Oil +Varnishes; Raw Materials: Resins, Solvents and Colouring Principles; +Drying Oils: their Properties, Applications and Preparation by both Hot +and Cold Processes; Manufacture, Employment and Testing of Different +Varnishes. Translated from the French of ACH. LIVACHE, Ingenieur Civil +des Mines. Greatly Extended and Adapted to English Practice, with +numerous Original Recipes. By JOHN GEDDES MCINTOSH, Lecturer on Oils, +Colours and Varnishes, Regent Street Polytechnic. Twenty-seven +Illustrations. 400 pp. Demy 8vo. 1899. Price 12s. 6d.; India and +Colonies, 13s. 6d.; Other Countries, 15s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +I. Resins: Gum Resins, Oleo Resins and Balsams, Commercial Varieties, +Source, Collection, Characteristics, Chemical Properties, Physical +Properties, Hardness, Adulterations. Appropriate Solvents, Special +Treatment, Special Use.--II. Solvents: Natural, Artificial, Manufacture, +Storage, Special Use.--III. Colouring: Principles, (1) Vegetable, (2) +Coal Tar, (3) Coloured Resinates, (4) Coloured Oleates and +Linoleates.--Gum Running: Furnaces, Bridges, Flues, Chimney Shafts, +Melting Pots, Condensers, Boiling or Mixing Pans, Copper Vessels, Iron +Vessels (Cast), Iron Vessels (Wrought), Iron Vessels (Silvered), Iron +Vessels (Enamelled), Steam Superheated Plant, Hot-air Plant.--Spirit +Varnish Manufacture: Cold Solution Plant, Mechanical Agitators, Hot +Solution Plant, Jacketted Pans, Mechanical Agitators, Clarification and +Filtration, Bleaching Plant, Storage Plant.--Manufacture, +Characteristics and Uses of the Spirit Varnishes yielded by: Amber, +Copal, Dammar, Shellac, Mastic, Sandarac, Rosin, Asphalt, India Rubber, +Gutta Percha, Collodion, Celluloid, Resinates, Oleates.--Manufacture of +Varnish Stains.--Manufacture of Lacquers.--Manufacture of Spirit +Enamels.--Analysis of Spirit Varnishes.--Physical and Chemical Constants +of Resins. --Table of Solubility of Resins in different +Menstrua.--Systematic qualitative Analysis of Resins, Hirschop's +tables.--Drying Oils: Oil Crushing Plant, Oil Extraction Plant, +Individual Oils, Special Treatment of Linseed Oil, Poppyseed Oil, Walnut +Oil, Hempseed Oil, Llamantia Oil, Japanese Wood Oil, Gurjun Balsam, +Climatic Influence on Seed and Oil.--Oil Refining: Processes, Thenard's, +Liebig's, Filtration, Storage, Old Tanked Oil.--Oil Boiling: Fire +Boiling Plant, Steam Boiling Plant, Hot-Air Plant, Air Pumps, Mechanical +Agitators, Vincent's Process, Hadfield's Patent, Storer's Patent, +Walton's Processes, Continental Processes, Pale Boiled Oil, Double +Boiled Oil, Hartley and Blenkinsop's Process.--Driers: Manufacture, +Special Individual Use of (1) Litharge, (2) Sugar of Lead, (3) Red Lead, +(4) Lead Borate, (5) Lead Linoleate, (6) Lead Resinate, (7) Black Oxide +of Manganese, (8) Manganese Acetate, (9) Manganese Borate, (10) +Manganese Resinate, (II) Manganese Linoleate, Mixed Resinates and +Linoleates, Manganese and Lead, Zinc Sulphate, Terebine, Liquid +Driers.--Solidified Boiled Oil.--Manufacture of Linoleum.--Manufacture +of India Rubber Substitutes.--Printing Ink Manufacture--Lithographic Ink +Manufacture.--Manufacture of Oil Varnishes.--Running and Special +Treatment of Amber, Copal, Kauri, Manilla.--Addition of Oil to +Resin.--Addition of Resin to Oil.--Mixed Processes.--Solution in Cold of +previously Fused Resin.--Dissolving Resins in Oil, etc., under +pressure.--Filtration.--Clarification.--Storage.--Ageing.--Coach-makers' +Varnishes and Japans.--Oak Varnishes.--Japanners' Stoving +Varnishes.--Japanners' Gold Size.--Brunswick Black.--Various Oil +Varnishes.--Oil-Varnish Stains.--Varnishes for "Enamels".-India Rubber +Varnishes.--Varnishes Analysis: Processes, Matching.--Faults in +Varnishes: Cause, Prevention.--Experiments and Exercises. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "There is no question that this is a useful book."--_Chemist and + Druggist._ + + "The different formulae which are quoted appear to be far more + 'practical' than such as are usually to be found in text-books: and + assuming that the original was published two or three years ago, + and was only slightly behindhand in its information, the present + volume gives a fair insight into the position of the varnish + industry."--_The Ironmonger._ + + =Letter from the Teacher of a Technical Class.= + + "As a teacher I have often been consulted as to the best work on + Varnish Manufacture and kindred industries, and have been at a loss + in recommending a really practical one. It is therefore with + pleasure that I can now testify as to the merits of the book on + these subjects by A. Livache and J.G. McIntosh recently published + by Messrs. Scott, Greenwood & Co. In my opinion _no_ varnish maker + ought to be without it; moreover, it is the best text-book that + could be put into the hands of trade students or beginners. It has + also the merits of being thoroughly up-to-date and of possessing a + remarkably comprehensive index. I can conscientiously recommend it + to my students and trade friends."--CHARLES HARRISON, Lecturer on + the Manufacture of Painters' Oils, Colours and Varnishes, Borough + Polytechnic, Borough Road, S.E. + "23rd May, 1899" + + * * * * * + +=THE MANUFACTURE OF LAKE PIGMENTS FROM ARTIFICIAL COLOURS.= By FRANCIS +H. JENNISON, F.I.C., F.C.S. =Sixteen Coloured Plates, showing Specimens +of Eighty-nine Colours, specially prepared from the Recipes given in the +Book.= 136 pp. Demy 8vo. 1900. Price 7s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 8s.; +Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Introduction.--II., The Groups of the Artificial Colouring +Matters.--III., The Nature and Manipulation of Artificial Colours.--IV., +Lake-forming Bodies for Acid Colours. --V., Lake-forming Bodies' Basic +Colours.--VI., Lake Bases.--VII., The Principles of Lake +Formation.--VIII., Red Lakes.--IX., Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Violet +and Black Lakes. --X., The Production of Insoluble Azo Colours in the +Form of Pigments.--XI., The General Properties of Lakes Produced from +Artificial Colours.--XII., Washing, Filtering and Finishing. --XIII., +Matching and Testing Lake Pigments.--Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "It is evidently the result of prolonged research, and cannot but + prove a valuable consulting work to those engaged in the + industry."--_Derby Mercury._ + + "The practical portion of the volume is the one which will + especially commend itself, as that is the part of the subject which + most readers would buy the book for."--_Chemist and_ _Druggist._ + + "This work just issued is a very valuable treatise on the + manufacture of lake pigments of the coal-tar series principally. The + plan adopted by the author in writing up the subject enables the + manufacture to be very readily understood.... The general properties + of lakes produced from artificial colours, washing, filtering and + finishing, and matching and testing lake pigments are well and + exhaustively described, so that no manufacturer or user of lake + pigments can well afford to be without this work."--_Chemical Trade + Journal._ + + "This is undoubtedly a book which will occupy a very high place + amongst technical works, and will prove of exceptional value to all + whom it immediately concerns. We have no hesitation in recommending + it as one of the best works of its class we have ever read. Mr. + Jennison has set about his task with a lucid style, and with a + complete mastery of his subject. .. We do not think students of the + technical side of the paint and colour industry can possibly spend + 7s. 6d. in a more profitable way than by buying this + publication."--_Eastern_ _Morning News._ + + * * * * * + +=THE TESTING AND VALUATION OF RAW MATERIALS USED IN PAINT AND COLOUR +MANUFACTURE.= By M.W. JONES, F.C.S. A Book for the Laboratories of +Colour Works. 88 pp. Crown 8vo. 1900. Price 5s.; India and Colonies, 5s. +6d.; Other Countries, 6s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Aluminium Compounds. China Clay. Iron Compounds. Potassium Compounds. +Sodium Compounds. Ammonium Hydrate. Acids. Chromium Compounds. Tin +Compounds. Copper Compounds. Lead Compounds. Zinc Compounds. Manganese +Compounds. Arsenic Compounds. Antimony Compounds. Calcium Compounds. +Barium Compounds. Cadmium Compounds. Mercury Compounds. Ultramarine. +Cobalt and Carbon Compounds. Oils Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "Though this excellent little work can appeal only to a limited + class, the chemists in colour works, yet it will appeal to them very + strongly indeed, for it will put them on the track of short, rapid, + and yet approximately, accurate methods of testing the comparative + value of competing samples of raw material used in paint and colour + manufacture."--_North British_ _Daily Mail._ + + "This little text-book is intended to supplement the larger and more + comprehensive works on the subject, and it embodies the result of + Mr. Jones' experiments and experiences, extending over a long + period. It gives, under separate headings, the principal ingredients + and impurities found in the raw materials, and is a handy work of + reference for ascertaining what is valuable or detrimental in the + sample under examination."--_Blackburn Times._ + + "There is no attempt at literary adornment nor straining after + literary effect, but the lessons are imparted in simple and concise + language. This is just what a text-book should be.... The treatise + is certainly most useful, and bears internal evidence of being the + results of actual work in a busy manufactory and not of ephemeral + cramming in a technical school. The chapter arrangement is good, the + index satisfactory, and the book is altogether one which the + practical chemist should keep as accessible to his crucibles and + filter paper."--_Manchester_ _Courier._ + + * * * * * + +=THE CHEMISTRY OF ESSENTIAL OILS AND ARTIFICIAL PERFUMES.= By ERNEST J. +PARRY, B.SC. (Lond.), F.I.C., F.C.S. Illustrated with Twenty Engravings. +400 pp. 1899. Demy 8vo. Price 12s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 13s. 6d.; +Other Countries, 15s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., =The General Properties of Essential Oils.=--II., +=Compounds occurring in Essential Oils.=--III., =The Preparation of +Essential Oils.=--IV., =The Analysis of Essential Oils.=--V., +=Systematic Study of the Essential Oils.=--VI., =Terpeneless +Oils.=--VII., =The Chemistry of Artificial Perfumes.=--=Appendix:= Table +of Constants. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "There can be no doubt that the publication will take a high place + in the list of scientific text-books."--_London Argus_ + + "We can heartily recommend this volume to all interested in the + subject of essential oils from the scientific or the commercial + standpoint."--_British and Colonial Druggist._ + + "Mr. Parry has done good service in carefully collecting and + marshalling the results of the numerous researches published in + various parts of the world."--_Pharmaceutical Journal._ + + "At various times monographs have been printed by individual + workers, but it may safely be said that Mr. Parry is the first in + these latter days to deal with the subject in an adequate manner. + His book is well conceived and well written.... He is known to have + sound practical experience in analytical methods, and he has + apparently taken pains to make himself _au fait_ with the + commercial aspects of the subject."--_Chemist and Druggist._ + + "Mr. Parry's reputation as a scientist is fully established, and we + can therefore accept any work emanating from his pen as being of + the greatest practical value. We have perused the work before us + with much care, and are convinced that the contents will be found + most serviceable and its publication most opportune.... He avoids + unnecessary details, but includes everything that is essential to + systematic treatment, while he attempts no more 'than to give an + outline of the principles involved'.... We congratulate Mr. Parry + on the scientific value of his work, and hope that if the progress + of the colonies in the manufacture of essential oils and perfumes + equals what we are justified in expecting, it will become an + Australian handbook, everywhere appreciated."--_The Australian + Brewers' Journal._ + + * * * * * + +=DRYING OILS, BOILED OIL AND SOLID AND LIQUID DRIERS.= By L.E. ANDES. A +Practical Work for Manufacturers of Oils, Varnishes, Printing Inks, +Oilcloth and Linoleum, Oilcakes, Paints, etc. Expressly Written for this +Series of Special Technical Books, and the Publishers hold the Copyright +for English and Foreign Editions. Forty-two Illustrations. 360 pp. 1901. +Demy 8vo. Price 12s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 13s. 6d.; Other Countries, +15s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., General Chemical and Physical Properties of the Drying +Oils; Cause of the Drying Property; Absorption of Oxygen: Behaviour +towards Metallic Oxides, etc.--II., The Properties of and Methods for +obtaining the Drying Oils.--III., Production of the Drying Oils by +Expression and Extraction: Refining and Bleaching; Oil Cakes and Meal: +The Refining and Bleaching of the Drying Oils; The Bleaching of Linseed +Oil.--IV., The Manufacture or Boiled Oil; The Preparation of Drying Oils +for Use in the Grinding of Paints and Artists' Colours and in the +Manufacture of Varnishes by Heating over a Fire or by Steam, by the Cold +Process, by the Action of Air, and by Means of the Electric Current; The +Driers used in Boiling Linseed Oil; The Manufacture of Boiled Oil and +the Apparatus therefor; Livache's Process for Preparing a Good Drying +Oil and its Practical Application.--V., The Preparation of Varnishes for +Letterpress, Lithographic and Copperplate Printing, for Oilcloth and +Waterproof Fabrics: The Manufacture of Thickened Linseed Oil, Burnt Oil, +Stand Oil by Fire Heat, Superheated Steam, and by a Current of +Air.--VI., Behaviour of the Drying Oils and Boiled Oils towards +Atmospheric Influences, Water, Acids and Alkalies.--VII., Boiled Oil +Substitutes.--VIII., The Manufacture of Solid and Liquid Driers from +Linseed Oil and Rosin; Linolic Acid Compounds of the Driers.--IX., The +Adulteration and Examination of the Drying Oils and Boiled Oil. + + * * * * * + +REISSUE OF =CHEMICAL ESSAYS OF C.W. SCHEELE.= First Published in English +in 1786. Translated from the Academy of Sciences at Stockholm, with +Additions. 300 pp. Demy 8vo. 1901. Price 5s.; India and Colonies, 5s. +6d.; Other Countries, 6s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Memoir; C.W. Scheele and his work (written for this edition).--Chapters +I., On Fluor Mineral and its Acid.--II., On Fluor Mineral.--III., +Chemical Investigation of Fluor Acid, with a View to the Earth which it +Yields, by Mr. Wiegler.--IV., Additional Information Concerning Fluor +Minerals.--V., On Manganese, Magnesium, or Magnesia Vitrariorum.--VI., +On Arsenic and its Acid.--VII., Remarks upon Salts of Benzoin--VIII., On +Silex, Clay and Alum.--IX., Analysis of the Calculus Vesical.--X., +Method of Preparing Mercurius. + +Dulcis Via Humida.--XI., Cheaper and more Convenient Method of Preparing +Pulvis Algarothi.--XII., Experiments upon Molybdaena.--XIII., +Experiments on Plumbago.--XIV., Method of Preparing a New Green +Colour.--XV., Of the Decomposition of Neutral Salts by Unslaked Lime and +Iron.--XVI., On the. Quantity of Pure Air which is Daily Present in our +Atmosphere.--XVII., On Milk and its Acid.--XVIII., On the Acid of +Saccharum Lactis. --XIX., On the Constituent Parts of Lapis Ponderosus +or Tungsten.--XX., Experiments and Observations on Ether. + + * * * * * + +=GLUE AND GLUE TESTING.= By SAMUEL RIDEAL, D.SC. Lond., F.I.C. Fourteen +Engravings. 144 pp. Demy 8vo. 1900. Price 10s. 6d.; India and Colonies, +11s.; Other Countries, 12s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., =Constitution and Properties: Definitions and Sources, +Gelatine, Chondrin and Allied Bodies, Physical and Chemical Properties, +Classification, Grades and Commercial Varieties.--II., =Raw Materials +and Manufacture: Glue Stock, Lining, Extraction, Washing and Clarifying, +Filter Presses, Water Supply, Use of Alkalies, Action of Bacteria and of +Antiseptics, Various Processes, Cleansing, Forming, Drying, Crushing, +etc., Secondary Products. --III., =Uses of Glue=: Selection and +Preparation for Use, Carpentry, Veneering, Paper-Making, Bookbinding, +Printing Rollers, Hectographs, Match Manufacture, Sandpaper, etc., +Substitutes for other Materials, Artificial Leather and +Caoutchouc.--IV., =Gelatine=: General Characters, Liquid Gelatine, +Photographic Uses, Size, Tanno-, Chrome and Formo-Gelatine, Artificial +Silk, Cements, Pneumatic Tyres, Culinary, Meat Extracts, Isinglass, +Medicinal and other Uses, Bacteriology.--V., =Glue Testing=: Review of +Processes, Chemical Examination, Adulteration, Physical Tests, Valuation +of Raw Materials.--VI., =Commercial= =Aspects.= + +=Press Opinions.= + + "This work is of the highest technical character, and gives not + only a full and practical account of the raw materials and + manufacture of glues, gelatines and similar substances, but gives + many hints and information on the use of such substances in + veneering, carpentry and many other purposes. Many tests are given + for glue in different stages of the progress of its manufacture, + and the commercial value of a commodity so much in general use is + exemplified by statistics and figures. It is certainly a valuable + treatise upon an article for which very little literature in any + form has previously been obtainable."--_Carpenter and Builder._ + + "Books on the art of glue making are more than usually scarce, and + users of that article, as well as those who may be tempted to + embark in the industry, should therefore welcome this book by Dr. + Samuel Rideal, a Fellow of the Institute of Chemistry, and a + leading authority. In this book he has collected the more important + facts connected with the manufacture of glue and allied products, + and stated the experience he has gained in examining various + commercial samples during the past ten years.... Dr. Rideal's book + must be regarded as a valuable contribution to other technical + literature, which manufacturers, merchants and users may study with + profit."--_British Trade Journal._ + + "This volume is the latest addition to the excellent series of + special technical works for manufacturers and professional and + commercial men issued by the well-known publishers of _The Oil and + Colourman's Journal_. The volume in every way fully maintains the + high standard of excellence of the whole series, and deals with the + subject of glue making and glue testing in a thoroughly exhaustive + manner. Chapters are given on the constitution and properties, and + raw material and manufacture, and of the uses of glue, and in this + latter respect it will doubtless be information to many readers to + learn to what extent glue enters into the manufacture of many + commercial products not apparently associated with glue. Exhaustive + chapters on the processes and methods of glue testing, and on its + commercial aspects, complete this useful and most carefully + prepared volume."--_Carriage Builders' Journal._ + + * * * * * + +=TECHNOLOGY OF PETROLEUM=: Oil Fields of the World--Their History, +Geography and Geology--Annual Production and Development--Oil-well +Drilling--Transport. By HENRY NEUBERGER and HENRY NOALHAT. Translated +from the French by J. G. MCINTOSH. 550 pp. 153 Illustrations. 26 Plates. +Royal 8vo. 1901. Price 21s.; India and Colonies, 22s.; Other Countries, +23s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Part I., =Study of the Petroliferous Strata=--Chapters I., +Petroleum--Definition.--II., The Genesis or Origin of Petroleum.--III., +The Oil Fields of Galicia, their History.--IV.. Physical Geography and +Geology of the Galician Oil Fields.--V.. Practical Notes on Galician +Land Law--Economic Hints on Working, etc.--VI., Roumania--History, +Geography, Geology. --VII., Petroleum in Russia--History.--VIII., +Russian Petroleum (_continued_)--Geography and Geology of the Caucasian +Oil Fields.--IX.. Russian Petroleum (_continued_).--X., The Secondary +Oil Fields of Europe. Northern Germany, Alsace, Italy, etc.--XI., +Petroleum in France.--XII., Petroleum in Asia--Transcaspian and +Turkestan Territory--Turkestan--Persia--British India and +Burmah--British Burmah or Lower Burmah--China--Chinese Thibet--Japan, +Formosa and Saghalien.--XIII., Petroleum in Oceania--Sumatra. Java, +Borneo--Isle of Timor--Philippine Isles--New Zealand.--XIV., The United +States of America--History. --XV., Physical Geology and Geography of the +United States Oil Fields.--XVI., Canadian and other North American Oil +Fields.--XVII., Economic Data of Work in North America. --XVIII., +Petroleum in the West Indies and South America.--XIX., Petroleum in the +French Colonies. + +Part II., =Excavations.=--Chapter XX., Hand Excavation or Hand Digging +of Oil Wells. Part III., =Methods of Boring.=--Chapters XXI., Methods of +Oil-well Drilling or Boring.--XXII., Boring Oil Wells with the +Rope.--XXIII., Drilling with Rigid Rods and a Free-fall--Fabian +System.--XXIV., Free-fall Drilling by Steam Power.--XXV., Oil-well +Drilling by the Canadian System.--XXVI., Drilling Oil Wells on the +Combined System.--XXVII., Comparison between the Combined Fauck System +and the Canadian.--XXVIII., The American System of Drilling with the +Rope.--XXIX., Hydraulic Boring with the Drill by Hand and Steam +Power.--XXX., Rotary Drilling of Oil Wells, Bits, Steel-crowned Tools, +Diamond Tools--Hand Power and Steam Power--Hydraulic +Sand-pumping.--XXXI., Improvements in and different Systems of Drilling +Oil Wells. + +Part IV., =Accidents.=--Chapters XXXII., Boring Accidents--Methods of +preventing them--Methods of remedying them.--XXXIII., Explosives and the +use of the "Torpedo" Levigation.--XXXIV., Storing and Transport of +Petroleum.--XXXV., General Advice--Prospecting, Management and carrying +on of Petroleum Boring Operations. + +Part V., =General Data.=--=Customary Formulae.=--Memento. Practical +Part. General Data bearing on Petroleum.--Glossary or Technical Terms +used in the Petroleum Industry.--Copious Index. + + * * * * * + +=A DICTIONARY OF CHEMICALS AND RAW PRODUCTS USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF +PAINTS, COLOURS, VARNISHES AND ALLIED PREPARATIONS.= By GEORGE H. HURST, +F.C.S. Demy 8vo. 380 pp. 1901. Price 7s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 8s.; +Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +The names of the Chemicals and Raw Products are arranged in alphabetical +order, and the description of each varies in length from half to eight +pages. The following are some of the articles described and explained: +Acetates--Acetic Acid--Acidimetry--Alcohol--Alum--Ammonia--Amber--Animi-- +Arsenic--Beeswax--Benzol--Bichromates of Potash and Soda--Bleaching +Powder--Bone Black--Boric Acid--Brunswick Green--Cadmium +Yellow--Carbonates--Carmine--Carnauba Wax--Caustic Potash and +Soda--Chrome Colours--Clay--Coal Tar Colours--Copal--Dammar--Drying +Oils--Emerald Green--Gamboge--Glue--Glycerine--Gums--Gypsum--Indian +Red--Japanese Lacquer--Lac--Lakes--Lamp Black--Lead Compounds--Linseed +Oil--Magnesia--Manganese Compounds--Mica--Nitric Acid--Ochres--Orange +Lead--Orr's White--Paraffin--Prussian Blue--Rosin +Oil--Sepia--Sienna--Smalts--Sodium Carbonate--Sublimed White +Lead--Sulphuric Acid--Terra Verte--Testing +Pigments--Turpentine--Ultramarine--Umbers--Vermilionettes--White +Lead--Whiting--Zinc Compounds.--Appendix: Comparison of Baume Hydrometer +and Specific Gravity for Liquids Lighter than Water--Hydrometer Table +for Liquids Heavier than Water--Comparison of Temperature +Degrees--Tables for Converting French Metric Weights and Measures into +English--Table of the Elements--etc., etc.--Copious Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "This treatise will be welcomed by those interested in this + industry who have not secured the full advantage of a course of + scientific training."--_Chemical Trade Journal._ + + "In concise and lucid terms almost every ingredient used in paint + and colour manufacture is described, together with the methods of + testing their intrinsic and chemical value."--_Pontefract Express._ + + "Such a book of reference for paint, colour and varnish + manufacturers has long been needed, and in Mr. Hurst the publishers + have secured a compiler who is not only a well-known authority and + expert, but who has the gift of communicating his knowledge in a + concise and lucid form."--_Manchester Courier._ + + * * * * * + +=PURE AIR, OZONE AND WATER.= A Practical Treatise of their Utilisation +and Value in Oil, Grease, Soap, Paint, Glue and other Industries. By W. +B. COWELL. Twelve Illustrations. 1900. Price 5s.; India and Colonies, +5s. 6d.: Other Countries, 6s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Atmospheric Air; Lifting of Liquids: Suction Process; +Preparing Blown Oils; Preparing Siccative Drying Oils.--II., Compressed +Air; Whitewash.--III., Liquid Air; Retrocession.--IV., Purification of +Water; Water Hardness.--V., Fleshings and Bones.--VI., Ozonised Air in +the Bleaching and Deodorising of Fats, Glues, etc.: Bleaching Textile +Fibres.--Appendix: Air and Gases: Pressure of Air at Various +Temperatures; Fuel; Table of Combustibles; Saving of Fuel by Heating +Feed Water; Table of Solubilities of Scale Making Minerals: British +Thermal Units Tables; Volume of the Flow of Steam into the Atmosphere; +Temperature of Steam.--Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "This is a valuable work in little space.... In arrangement it is a + commendable work, and its value is increased by the index which + brings the little volume to a close."--_Newcastle Daily Journal._ + + "The book is written solely for manufacturers, who, without doubt, + will find it exceedingly practical and useful. The volume contains + an appendix wherein is given a great many tables, etc., which + manufacturers in the trades referred to will find of inestimable + value "_Blackburn Times._ + +=THE MANUFACTURE OF MINERAL AND LAKE PIGMENTS.= Containing Directions +for the Manufacture of all Artificial, Artists and Painters' Colours, +Enamel, Soot and Metallic Pigments. A Text-book for Manufacturers, +Merchants, Artists and Painters. By Dr. JOSEF BERSCH. Translated from +the Second Revised Edition by ARTHUR C. WRIGHT, M.A. (Oxon.), B.Sc. +(Lond.), formerly Assistant Lecturer and Demonstrator in Chemistry at +the Yorkshire College, Leeds. Forty-three Illustrations. 476 pp., demy +8vo. 1901. Price 12s. 6d.; India and Colonies. 13s. 6d.; Other +Countries, 15s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Introduction.--II., Physico-chemical Behaviour of +Pigments.--III., Raw Materials Employed in the Manufacture of +Pigments.--IV., Assistant Materials.--V., Metallic Compounds.--VI., The +Manufacture of Mineral Pigments.--VII., The Manufacture of White +Lead.--VIII., Enamel White.--IX., Washing Apparatus.--X., Zinc +White.--XI.. Yellow Mineral Pigments.--XII., Chrome Yellow.--XIII., Lead +Oxide Pigments.--XIV., Other Yellow Pigments.--XV., Mosaic; Gold.--XVI., +Red Mineral Pigments.--XVII., The Manufacture of Vermilion.--XVIII., +Antimony Vermilion.--XIX., Ferric Oxide Pigments.--XX., Other Red +Mineral Pigments.--XXI., Purple of Cassius.--XXII., Blue Mineral +Pigments. --XXIII., Ultramarine.--XXIV., Manufacture of +Ultramarine.--XXV., Blue Copper Pigments. --XXVI., Blue Cobalt +Pigments.--XXVII., Smalts.--XXVIII., Green Mineral Pigments.--XXIX., +Emerald Green.--XXX., Verdigris.--XXXI., Chromium Oxide.--XXXII., Other +Green Chromium Pigments.--XXXIII., Green Cobalt Pigments.--XXXIV., Green +Manganese Pigments.--XXXV., Compounded Green Pigments.--XXXVI., Violet +Mineral Pigments.--XXXVII.. Brown Mineral Pigments.--XXXVIII., Brown +Decomposition Products.--XXXIX., Black Pigments.--XL., Manufacture of +Soot Pigments.--XLI., Manufacture of Lamp Black.--XLII., The Manufacture +of Soot Black without Chambers.--XLIII., Indian Ink.--XLIV., Enamel +Colours.--XLV., Metallic Pigments.--XLVI., Bronze Pigments--XLVII., +Vegetable Bronze Pigments. + +PIGMENTS OF ORGANIC ORIGIN.--Chapters XLVIII., Lakes.--XLIX., Yellow +Lakes.--L., Red Lakes.--LI., Manufacture of Carmine.--LII., The +Colouring Matter of Lac.--LIII., Safflower or Carthamine Red.--LIV., +Madder and its Colouring Matters.--LV., Madder Lakes.--LVI., Manjit +(Indian Madder).--LVII., Lichen Colouring Matters.--LVIII., Red Wood +Lakes. --LIX., The Colouring Matters of Sandal Wood and Other Dye +Woods.--LX., Blue Lakes.--LXI., Indigo Carmine.--LXII., The Colouring +Matter of Log Wood.--LXIII., Green Lakes.--LXIV., Brown Organic +Pigments.--LXV., Sap Colours.--LXVI., Water Colours.--LXVII., +Crayons.--LXVIII., Confectionery Colours.--LXIX., The Preparation of +Pigments for Painting.--LXX., The Examination of Pigments.--LXXI., +Examination of Lakes.--LXXII., The Testing of Dye-Woods.--LXXIII., The +Design of a Colour Works.--LXXIV.--Commercial Names of +Pigments.--Appendix: Conversion of Metric to English Weights and +Measures.--Centigrade and Fahrenheit Thermometer Scales.--Index. + + * * * * * + +=BONE PRODUCTS AND MANURES=: An Account of the most recent Improvements +in the Manufacture of Fat, Glue, Animal Charcoal, Size, Gelatine and +Manures. By THOMAS LAMBERT, Technical and Consulting Chemist. +Illustrated by Twenty-one Plans and Diagrams. 162 pp., demy 8vo. 1901. +Price 7s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; +strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Chemical Composition of Bones--Arrangement of +Factory--Crushing of Bones --Treatment with Benzene--Benzene in Crude +Fat--Analyses of Clarified Fats--Mechanical Cleansing of Bones--Animal +Charcoal--Tar and Ammoniacal Liquor, Char and Gases, from good quality +Bones--Method of Retorting the Bones--Analyses of Chars--"Spent" +Chars--Cooling of Tar and Ammoniacal Vapours--Value of Nitrogen for +Cyanide of Potash--Bone Oil--Marrow Bones--Composition of Marrow +Fat--Premier Juice--Buttons.--II., Properties of Glue--Glutin and +Chondrin--Skin Glue--Liming of Skins--Washing--Boiling of +Skins--Clarification of Glue Liquors--Acid Steeping of Bones--Water +System of Boiling Bones--Steam Method of Treating Bones--Nitrogen in the +Treated Bones--Glue-Boiling and Clarifying-House--Plan showing +Arrangement of Clarifying Vats--Plan showing Position of +Evaporators--Description of Evaporators--Sulphurous Acid +Generator--Clarification of Liquors--Section of +Drying-House--Specification of a Glue--Size--Uses and Preparation and +Composition of Size--Concentrated Size.--III., Properties of +Gelatine--Preparation of Skin Gelatine +--Washing--Bleaching--Boiling--Clarification--Evaporation--Drying--Bone +Gelatine--Selecting +Bones--Crushing--Dissolving--Bleaching--Boiling--Properties of Glutin +and Chondrin --Testing of Glues and Gelatines.--IV., The Uses of Glue, +Gelatine and Size in Various Trades--Soluble and Liquid Glues--Steam and +Waterproof Glues.--V., Manures--Importation of Food +Stuffs--Soils--Germination--Plant Life.--VI., Natural Manures--Water and +Nitrogen in Farmyard Manure--Full Analysis of Farmyard Manure--Action on +Crops--Water-Closet. + +System--Sewage Manure--Green Manures.--VII., Artificial +Manures--Bones--Boiled and Steamed Bones--Mineral Phosphates--English +Coprolites--French and Spanish Phosphorites--German and Belgian +Phosphates--Basic Slag--Guanos Proper--Guano Phosphates.--VIII., Mineral +Manures--Common Salt--Potash Salts--Calcareous Manures--Prepared +Nitrogenous Manures--Ammoniacal Compounds--Sodium Nitrate--Potassium +Nitrate--Organic Nitrogenous Matters--Shoddy--Hoofs and Horns--Leather +Waste--Dried Meat--Dried +Blood--Superphosphates--Composition--Manufacture--Section of +Manure-Shed--First and Ground Floor Plans of Manure-Shed--Quality of +Acid Used--Mixings--Special Manures--Potato Manure--Dissolved +Bones--Dissolved Bone Compound--Enriched Peruvian Guano--Special Manure +for Garden Stuffs, etc.--Special Manure for Grass Lands--Special Tobacco +Manures--Sugar-Cane Manure--Compounding of Manures--Valuation of +Manures.--IX., Analyses of Raw and Finished Products--Common Raw +Bones--Degreased Bones--Crude Fat--Refined Fat--Degelatinised +Bones--Animal Charcoal--Bone Superphosphates--Guanos--Dried Animal +Products--Potash Compounds--Sulphate of Ammonia--Extraction in +Vacuo--Description of a Vacuum Pan--French and British Gelatines +compared.--Index. + +=Press Opinion.= + + "We can with confidence recommend the perusal of the book to all + persons interested in the manufacture of artificial manures, and + also to the large number of farmers and others who are desirous of + working their holdings on the most up-to-date methods, and + obtaining the best possible results, which scientific research has + placed within their reach."--_Wigan Observer._ + + * * * * * + +=ANALYSIS OF RESINS AND BALSAMS.= Demy 8vo. 340 pp. 1901. Price 7s. 6d.; +India and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Part I., Definition of Resins in General--Definition of Balsams, and +especially the Gum Resins--External and Superficial Characteristics of +Resinous Bodies--Distinction between Resinous Bodies and Fats and +Oils--Origin, Occurrence and Collection of Resinous +Substances--Classification--Chemical Constituents of Resinous +Substances--Resinols--Resinot Annols--Behaviour of Resin Constituents +towards the Cholesterine Reactions--Uses and Identification of +Resins--Melting-point--Solvents--Acid Value--Saponification Value--Resin +Value--Ester and Ether Values--Acetyl and Corbonyl Value--Methyl +Value--Resin Acid--Systematic Resume of the Performance of the Acid and +Saponification Value Tests. + +Part II., Balsams--Introduction--Definitions--Canada Balsam--Copaiba +Balsam--Angostura Copaiba Balsam--Bahia Copaiba Balsam--Carthagena +Copaiba Balsam--Maracaibo Copaiba Balsam--Maturin Copaiba Balsam--Gurjum +Copaiba Balsam--Para Copaiba Balsam--Surinam Copaiba Balsam--West +African Copaiba Balsam--Mecca Balsam--Peruvian Balsam--Tolu +Balsam--Acaroid Resin--Amine--Amber--African and West Indian +Kino--Bengal Kino--Labdanum--Mastic--Pine +Resin--Sandarach--Scammonium--Shellac--Storax--Adulteration of Styrax +Liquidus Crudus--Purified Storax--Styrax Crudus +Colatus--Tacamahac--Thapsia Resin--Turpentine--Chios +Turpentine--Strassburg Turpentine--Turpeth Turpentine. =Gum +Resins=--Ammoniacum--Bdellium--Euphorbium--Galbanum--Gamboge--Lactucarium-- +Myrrh--Opopanax--Sagapenum--Olibanum or Incense--Acaroid Resin--Amber-- +Thapsia Resin.--Index. + + * * * * * + +=MANUFACTURE OF PAINT.= A Practical Handbook for Paint Manufacturers, +Merchants and Painters. By J. CRUICKSHANK SMITH, B.Sc. Demy 8vo. 1901. +200 pp. 60 Illustrations and 1 Large Diagram. Price 7s. 6d.; India and +Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Part I., Chapters I., Preparation of Raw Material.--II., Storing of Raw +Material.--III., Testing and Valuation of Raw Material--Paint Plant and +Machinery. + +Part II., Chapter V., The Grinding of White Lead.--VI., Grinding of +White Zinc.--VII., Grinding of other White Pigments.--VIII., Grinding of +Oxide Paints.--IX., Grinding of Staining Colours.--X., Grinding of Black +Paints.--XI., Grinding of Chemical Colours--Yellows.--XII., Grinding of +Chemical Colours--Blues.--XIII., Grinding Greens.--XIV., Grinding +Reds.--XV., Grinding Lakes.--XVI., Grinding Colours in Water.--XVII., +Grinding Colours in Turpentine. + +Part III., Chapters XVIII., The Uses of Paint.--XIX., Testing and +Matching Paints.--XX., Economic Considerations.--Index. + + * * * * * + +=THE CHEMISTRY OF PIGMENTS.= By ERNEST J. PARRY, B.Sc, F.I.C., F.C.S., +and J.H. COSTE, F.I.C., F.C.S. [_In the press._ + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Introductory--Composition of White Light--Theory of Colour, +etc.--II., The Application of Pigments--Artistic, Decorative, Protective +Methods of Applying Pigments.--III., White Pigments.--IV., Inorganic +Coloured Pigments.--V., Organic Pigments. + +=NOTES ON LEAD ORES=: Their Distribution and Properties. By JAS. FAIRIE, +F.G.S. Crown 8vo. 1901. 64 pages. Price 2s. 6d.; Abroad, 3s.; strictly +net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Definitions--Properties--Occurrence.--II., +Galena--Johnstonite--Cerussite--Ceruse (White Lead)--Minium--Red Lead.-- +III., Pyromorphite--Mimetene--Hediphane--Crocoise--Wulfenite.--Vanadinite-- +IV., Bleiglatte--Anglesite--Caledonite--Linarite--Lanarkite--Leadhillite +--Susannite--Clausthalite--Cotunnite.--V., Mendipite--Matlockite-- +Cromfordite--Nagyagite--Altaite--Melanochroite--Vauguelinite-- +Scheeletine.--VI., Plattnerite--Tilkerodite--Raphanosmite-- +Deckenite--Descloezite--Dufrenaysite--Bleinierite--Moffrasite +--Geocronite--Kilbrechenite--Schulzite--Boulangerite--Heteromorphite-- +Meneghinite--Jamesonite--Plagionite--Zinkenite.--VII., Kobellite-- +Bournonite--Selenkupferblei--Nussierite--Percylite--Wolchite-- +Polysphracrite--Miesite.--Index. + + * * * * * + +=THE RISKS AND DANGERS OF VARIOUS OCCUPATIONS AND THEIR PREVENTION.= By +LEONARD A. PARRY, M.D., B.S. (Lond.). 196 pp., demy 8vo. 1900. Price 7s. +6d.; India and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Occupations which are Accompanied by the Generation and +Scattering of Abnormal Quantities of Dust.--II., Trades in which there +is Danger of Metallic Poisoning.--III., Certain Chemical Trades.--IV., +Some Miscellaneous Occupations.--V., Trades in which Various Poisonous +Vapours are Inhaled.--VI., General Hygienic Considerations.--Index. + +This book contains valuable information for the following +trades--Aerated Water Manufacture, Alkali Manufacture, Aniline +Manufacture, Barometer Making, Brass Founders, Bromine Manufacture, +Bronze Moulders, Brush Making, Builders, Cabinet Makers, Calico +Printing, Chloride of Lime Manufacture, Coal Miners, Cocoa-nut Fibre +Making, Colour Grinders, Copper Miners, Cotton Goods Manufacture, Cotton +Yarn Dyeing, Cutlery Trades, Dry Cleaning, Electricity Generating, +Electroplaters, Explosives Manufacture, File Making, Flint Milling, +Floor Cloth Makers, Furriers, Fustian Clothing Making, Galvanised Iron +Manufacture, Gassing Process, Gilders, Glass Making, Glass Paper Making, +Glass Polishing and Cutting, Grinding Processes, Gunpowder +Manufacturing, Gutta-percha Manufacture, Hat Makers, Hemp Manufacture, +Horn Goods Making, Horse-hair Making, Hydrochloric Acid Manufacture, +India-rubber Manufacture, Iodine Manufacture, Ivory Goods Making, +Jewellers, Jute Manufacture, Knife Grinders, Knife Handle Makers, Lace +Makers, Lacquering, Lead Melters, Lead Miners, Leather Making, Linen +Manufacture Linoleum Making, Lithographic Printing and Bronzing, +Lithographing, Masons, Match Manufacture, Melanite Making, Mirror +Making, Needle Grinders, Needle Making, Nitro-benzole Making, +Nitro-glycerine Making, Paint Makers, Paper Making, Philosophical +Instrument Makers, Photographers, Pieric Acid Making, Portland Cement +Making, Pottery Manufacture, Printers, Quicksilver Mining, Rag Pickers, +Razor Grinders, Red Lead Making, Rope Making, Sand Paper Making, Saw +Grinders, Scissors Grinders, Shoddy Manufacture, Shot Making, Silk +Making, Silver Mining, Skinners, Slag, Wood Manufacture, Steel Makers, +Steel Pen Making, Stereotypers, Stone Masons, Straw Hat Makers, +Sulphuric Acid Manufacture, Sweeps, Table-knife Grinders, Tanners, +Telegraphists, Textile Industries, Tin Miners, Turners, Type Founders, +Umbrella Makers, Wall Paper Making, White Lead Making, Wood Working, +Woollen Manufacture, Wool Sorters, Zinc Oxide Manufacture. Zinc Working, +etc., etc. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "The language used is quite simple, and can be understood by any + intelligent person engaged in the trades dealt with."--_The + Clarion._ + + "This is an appalling book. It shows that there is scarcely a trade + or occupation that has not a risk or a danger attached to + it."--_Local Government Journal._ + + "Dr. Parry has not only pointed out the 'risks and dangers of + various occupations': he has suggested means for their prevention. + The work is primarily a practical one."--_Colliery Manager._ + + "This is a most useful book which should be in the hands of all + employers of labour, foremen, and intelligent workmen, and is one + of great utility to sanitary inspectors, and even on occasion to + medical men."--_Health._ + + "The writer has succeeded in collecting a large amount of + information, and though one could wish he had presented it in a + rather more attractive style, he has certainly condensed it into a + very small space."--_Physician and Surgeon._ + + "The little book before us is one which will be found exceedingly + useful to manufacturers and even factory inspectors.... No attempt + is made to show how diseases when originated are to be cured, but, + acting on the sound principle that prevention is better than cure, + means are stated how to avoid the harm."--_Bristol Mercury._ + + "The author has endeavoured to treat the question in simple rather + than in technical language, and he has lucidly catalogued the most + dangerous trades and their symptoms, and in each case specified the + best methods of dealing with them.... To those for whom the volume + is specially designed, Dr. Parry's treatise should be a useful + handbook."--_Sheffield Independent._ + + "A very useful manual for employers of labour, foremen, intelligent + workmen, and, in spite of the author's modesty, for medical men. We + have the peculiar risks and dangers of all the dangerous trades + carefully described; the mode of action of various chemicals, etc., + used in different industries given, with full directions how to + minimise unavoidable risks."--_Leeds Mercury._ + + "Most of the trades in the country are alluded to, and upon those + that are dangerous the necessary attention is bestowed, and means + are recommended whereby danger may be prevented or lessened. The + author has evidently studied his subject with care, and has made + full use of the experience of others who have had a larger insight + into the industries of the country."--_British Medical Journal._ + + "The work is well written and printed, and its verbiage such as to + be comprehensible to the workman no less than to the master. The + careful and general perusal of a work of this nature cannot but be + attended by beneficial results of a far-reaching nature, and we + therefore heartily recommend the book to our readers. Medical + Officers of Health and Sanitary Inspectors especially should find + the work of great interest."--_Sanitary Record._ + + "It is written in simple language, and its instructions can be + easily followed.... There are some employers, at any rate, who are + more ignorant of, than indifferent to, the slow murder of their + workpeople, and if the facts so succinctly set forth in this book + were brought to their notice, and if the Trade Unions made it their + business to insist on the observance of the better conditions Dr. + Parry described, much might be done to lessen the workman's + peril."--_Weekly Times and Echo._ + + * * * * * + +=PRACTICAL X RAY WORK.= By FRANK T. ADDYMAN, + +B.Sc. (Lond.), F.I.C., Member of the Roentgen Society of London; +Radiographer to St. George's Hospital; Demonstrator of Physics and +Chemistry, and Teacher of Radiography in St. George's Hospital Medical +School. Demy 8vo. 12 Plates from Photographs of X Ray Work. 52 +Illustrations. 200 pp. 1901. Price 10s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 11s.; +Other Countries, 12s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Part I., =Historical=--Chapters I., Introduction.--II., Work leading up +to the Discovery of the X Rays.--III., The Discovery. + +Part II., =Apparatus and its Management=--Chapters I., Electrical +Terms.--II., Sources of Electricity.--III., Induction Coils.--IV., +Electrostatic Machines.--V., Tubes.--VI., Air Pumps.--VII., Tube Holders +and Stereoscopic Apparatus.--VIII., Fluorescent Screens. + +Part III., =Practical X Ray Work=--Chapters I., Installations.--II., +Radioscopy.--III., Radiography.--IV., X Rays in Dentistry.--V., X Rays +in Chemistry.--VI., X Rays in War.--Index. + +=List of Plates.= + +_Frontispiece_--Congenital Dislocation of Hip-Joint.--I., Needle in +Finger.--II., Needle in Foot.--III., Revolver Bullet in Calf and +Leg.--IV., A Method of Localisation.--V., Stellate Fracture of Patella +showing shadow of "Strapping".--VI., Sarcoma.--VII., Six-weeks'-old +Injury to Elbow showing new Growth of Bone.--VIII., Old Fracture of +Tibia and Fibula badly set.--IX., Heart Shadow.--X., Fractured Femur +showing Grain of Splint.--XI., Barrell's Method of Localisation. + + * * * * * + +=DRYING BY MEANS OF AIR AND STEAM.= Explanations, Formulae, and Tables +for Use in Practice. Translated from the German of E. HAUSBRAND. Two +Diagrams and Thirteen Tables. Demy 8vo. 1901. 72 pp. Price 5s.; India +and Colonies, 5s. 6d.; Other Countries, 6s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Preface.--British and Metric Systems Compared--Centigrade and Fahr. +Thermometers.--Chapters I, Introduction.--II., Estimation of the Maximum +Weight of Saturated Aqueous Vapour which can be contained in 1 kilo. of +Air at Different Pressure and Temperatures.--III., Calculation of the +Necessary Weight and Volume of Air, and of the Least Expenditure of +Heat, per Drying Apparatus with Heated Air, at the Atmospheric Pressure: +_A_, With the Assumption that the Air is _Completely Saturated_ with +Vapour both before Entry and after Exit from the Apparatus.--_B_, When +the Atmospheric Air is Completely Saturated _before entry_, but at its +_exit_ is _only_ 3/4, 1/2 or 1/4 Saturated.--_C_, When the Atmospheric +Air is _not_ Saturated with Moisture before Entering the Drying +Apparatus.--IV., Drying Apparatus, in which, in the Drying Chamber, a +Pressure is Artificially Created, Higher or Lower than that of the +Atmosphere.--V., Drying by Means of Superheated Steam, without +Air.--VI., Heating Surface, Velocity of the Air Current, Dimensions of +the Drying Room, Surface of the Drying Material, Losses of Heat.--Index. + + + * * * * * + + +=Leather Trades.= + + * * * * * + +=THE LEATHER WORKER'S MANUAL.= Being a Compendium of Practical Recipes +and Working Formulae for Curriers, Bootmakers, Leather Dressers, Blacking +Manufacturers, Saddlers, Fancy Leather Workers, and all Persons engaged +in the Manipulation of Leather. By H.C. STANDAGE. 165 pp. 1900. Price +7s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly +net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Blackings, Polishes, Glosses, Dressings, Renovators, etc., +for Boot and Shoe Leather.--II., Harness Blackings, Dressings, Greases, +Compositions, Soaps, and Boot-top Powders and Liquids, etc., etc.--III., +Leather Grinders' Sundries.--IV., Currier's Seasonings, Blacking +Compounds, Dressings, Finishes, Glosses, etc.--V., Dyes and Stains for +Leather.--VI., Miscellaneous Information.--VII., Chrome Tannage.--Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "The book being absolutely unique, is likely to be of exceptional + value to all whom it concerns, as it meets a long-felt + want."--_Birmingham Gazette._ + + "This is a valuable collection of practical receipts and working + formulae for the use of those engaged in the manipulation of + leather. We have no hesitation in recommending it as one of the + best books of its kind, an opinion which will be endorsed by those + to whom it appeals."--_Liverpool Mercury._ + + "We think we may venture to state, so far as the opinion of the + leather trade under the Southern Cross is concerned, that it will + be one of approval. As practical men, having a long and wide + experience of the leather trade in Australia, we are certain that + there are many tanners and curriers carrying on business in remote + townships of the colonies to whom such a manual of practical + recipes will be invaluable.... This manual is not a mere collection + of recipes for the various purposes to which they may be applied, + but it is also replete with instructions concerning the nature of + the materials recommended to be used in making up the recipes.... + We think every intelligent leather man should avail himself of the + manual. It is undoubtedly a valuable contribution to the technology + of the leather trade."--_Australian Leather Journal and Boot and + Shoe Recorder._ + + * * * * * + +=PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE LEATHER INDUSTRY.= By A.M. VILLON. A +Translation of Villon's "Traite Pratique de la Fabrication des cuirs et +du Travail des Peaux". By FRANK T. ADDYMAN, B.SC. (Lond.), F.I.C., +F.C.S.; and Corrected by an Eminent Member of the Trade. 500 pp., royal +8vo. 1901. 123 Illustrations. Price 21s.; India and Colonies, 22s.; +Other Countries, 23s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Preface--Translator's Preface--List of Illustrations. + +Part I., =Materials used in Tanning=--Chapter I., Skins: I., Skin and +its Structure; II., Skins used in Tanning; III., Various Skins and their +Uses--Chapter II., Tannin and Tanning Substances: I., Tannin; II., Barks +(Oak); III., Barks other than Oak; IV., Tanning Woods; V., +Tannin-bearing Leaves; VI., Excrescences; VII., Tan-bearing Fruits; +VIII., Tan-bearing Roots and Bulbs; IX., Tanning Juices: X., Tanning +Substances used in Various Countries; XI., Tannin Extracts; XII., +Estimation of Tannin and Tannin Principles. + +Part II., =Tanning=--Chapter I., The Installation of a Tannary: I., Tan +Furnaces; II., Chimneys, Boilers, etc.; III., Steam Engines--Chapter +II., Grinding and Trituration of Tanning Substances: I., Cutting up +Bark: II., Grinding Bark; III., The Grinding of Tan Woods; IV., +Powdering Fruit, Galls and Grains; V., Notes on the Grinding of +Bark--Chapter III., Manufacture of Sole Leather: I., Soaking; II., +Sweating and Unhairing; III., Plumping and Colouring; IV., Handling; V., +Tanning; VI., Tanning Elephants' Hides; VII., Drying; VIII., Striking or +Pinning--Chapter IV., Manufacture of Dressing Leather: I., Soaking; II., +Depilation; III., New Processes for the Depilation of Skins; IV., +Tanning; V., Cow Hides; VI., Horse Hides; VII., Goat Skins; Manufacture +of Split Hides--Chapter V., On Various Methods of Tanning: I., +Mechanical Methods; II., Physical Methods; III., Chemical Methods; IV., +Tanning with Extracts--Chapter VI., Quantity and Quality: I., Quantity; +II., Net Cost; III., Quality of Leather--Chapter VII., Various +Manipulations of Tanned Leather: I., Second Tanning; II., Grease Stains: +III., Bleaching Leather; IV., Waterproofing Leather; V., Weighting +Tanned Leather; VI., Preservation of Leather--Chapter VIII., Tanning +Various Skins. + +Part III., =Currying=--Chapter I., Waxed Calf: I., Preparation; II., +Shaving; III., Stretching or Slicking; IV., Oiling the Grain: V., Oiling +the Flesh Side; VI., Whitening and Graining; VII., Waxing; VIII., +Finishing; IX., Dry Finishing; X., Finishing in Colour; XI., +Cost--Chapter II., White Calf: I., Finishing in White--Chapter III., Cow +Hide for Upper Leathers: I., Black Cow Hide; II., White Cow Hide; III., +Coloured Cow Hide.--Chapter IV., Smooth Cow Hide--Chapter V., Black +Leather--Chapter VI., Miscellaneous Hides: I., Horse; II., Goat; III., +Waxed Goat Skin: IV., Matt Goat Skin--Chapter VII., Russia Leather: I., +Russia Leather; II., Artificial Russia Leather. + +Part IV., =Enamelled, Hungary and Chamoy Leather, Morocco, Parchment, +Furs and Artificial Leather=--Chapter I., Enamelled Leather: I., Varnish +Manufacture; II., Application of the Enamel; III., Enamelling in +Colour--Chapter II., Hungary Leather: I., Preliminary; II., Wet Work or +Preparation; III., Aluming; IV., Dressing or Loft Work; V., Tallowing; +VI., Hungary Leather from Various Hides--Chapter III., Tawing: I., +Preparatory Operations; II., Dressing; III., Dyeing Tawed Skins; IV., +Rugs--Chapter IV., Chamoy Leather--Chapter V., Morocco: I., Preliminary +Operations; II., Morocco Tanning; III., Mordants used in Morocco +Manufacture; IV., Natural Colours used in Morocco Dyeing; V., Artificial +Colours; VI. Different Methods of Dyeing; VII., Dyeing with Natural +Colours; VIII., Dyeing with Aniline Colours; IX., Dyeing with Metallic +Salts; X., Leather Printing; XI., Finishing Morocco; XII., Shagreen; +XIII., Bronzed Leather--Chapter VI., Gilding and Silvering: I., Gilding; +II., Silvering; III., Nickel and Cobalt--Chapter VII., +Parchment--Chapter VIII., Furs and Furriery: I., Preliminary Remarks; +II., Indigenous Furs; III., Foreign Furs from Hot Countries; IV., +Foreign Furs from Cold Countries; V., Furs from Birds' Skins; VI., +Preparation of Furs; VII., Dressing; VIII., Colouring; IX., Preparation +of Birds' Skins; X., Preservation of Furs--Chapter IX., Artificial +Leather: I., Leather made from Scraps; II., Compressed Leather; III., +American Cloth; IV., Papier Mache; V., Linoleum: VI., Artificial +Leather. + +Part V., =Leather Testing and the Theory of Tanning=--Chapter I., +Testing and Analysis of Leather: I., Physical Testing of Tanned Leather: +II., Chemical Analysis--Chapter II., The Theory of Tanning and the other +Operations of the Leather and Skin Industry: I., Theory of Soaking; II., +Theory of Unhairing; III., Theory of Swelling; IV., Theory of Handling; +V., Theory of Tanning; VI., Theory of the Action of Tannin on the Skin; +VII., Theory of Hungary Leather Making; VIII., Theory of Tawing; IX., +Theory of Chamoy Leather Making; X., Theory of Mineral Tanning. + +Part VI., =Uses of Leather=--Chapter I., Machine Belts: I., Manufacture +of Belting; II., Leather Chain Belts; III., Various Belts, IV., Use of +Belts--Chapter II., Boot and Shoe-making: I., Boots and Shoes; II., +Laces--Chapter III., Saddlery: I., Composition of a Saddle; II., +Construction of a Saddle--Chapter IV., Harness: I., The Pack Saddle; +II., Harness--Chapter V., Military Equipment--Chapter VI., Glove +Making--Chapter VII., Carriage Building--Chapter VIII., Mechanical Uses. + +Appendix, =The World's Commerce in Leather=--I., Europe; II., America; +III., Asia; IV., Africa; Australasia--Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "The book is well and lucidly written. The writer is evidently a + practical man, who also has taken the trouble to make himself + acquainted with the scientific and technical side of his trade ... + French methods differ largely from our own: sometimes we think our + ways the best, but not always. The practical man may pick up many + useful hints which may help him to improve his methods." --_Shoe + Manufacturers' Monthly Journal._ + + "This book cannot fail to be of great value to all engaged in the + leather trades ... The British may believe that the French can teach + them nothing in the work of leather tanning generally, but a + comparison of the methods of the two countries will certainly yield + a few wrinkles which may lead to advantageous results. Only a man + understanding the science and technique of the trade could have + written the book, and it is well done." --_Midland Free Press._ + + "Gives much useful and interesting information concerning the + various processes by which the skins of animals are converted into + leather. Written by a French Chemist after five years of constant + study and application: it shows all that detail of analysis which we + are accustomed to find in scientists, and which the practical tanner + is too much in the habit of ignoring, sometimes to his own loss." + --_Leeds Mercury._ + + "Nor can there be much doubt that this expectation will be fully + justified by the result. Thanks to the conspicuous painstaking with + which Mr. Addyman has discharged his duty, and the 123 illustrations + by which the text is elucidated, the volume can hardly fail to prove + a very valuable standard work of its class. It can thus be + confidently recommended to all who are more or less practically + interested in the technology of a very important subject."--_Leicester + Post._ + + "This is, in every respect, an altogether admirable, practical, + clear and lucid treatise on the various and numerous branches of the + great leather industry, of which it deals in an exhaustive, highly + intelligent, workmanlike and scientific manner ... It is a handsome + addition to every man's knowledge of his trade, whether he be a + leading director of a large public company, or an industrious + employee in the works, wishing to improve his services by the + addition of his brains to his work." --_Shoe and Leather Trader._ + + "M. Villon writes as one having a very full knowledge of all + branches of the subject, and in days when foreign competition has + enforced on English manufacturers the importance of no longer being + content with rule-of-thumb methods which have come down to them from + their forefathers it certainly should be worth the while of English + tanners to see what lessons they can learn from French practice, and + French practice, we should imagine, could hardly have a better + exponent than the author of this large volume." --_Western Daily + Press and Bristol Times._ + + "At a time when all or nearly all our British industries are to a + greater or less extent hampered by the pressure of continental and + American competition, any hints that can be obtained as to the + methods pursued by competitors must necessarily be of value ... That + it will be of interest and value, not merely to English tanners, but + to those associated with many kindred industrial branches, goes + without saying ... As a work of reference the volume will be + extremely useful in the trade, and where leisure affords sufficient + opportunity a careful perusal and study of it would afford ample + reward." --_Kettering Guardian._ + + "This is a very handsomely got up and elaborate work just issued by + this well-known technical book-publishing firm ... When we say that + the work consists of over 500 large pages with about 120 + illustrations, and almost innumerable tables, it will be seen at + once that we cannot attempt anything like an exhaustive _resume_ of + its contents, and even if we did the details would be of little + interest to our general readers, while those who are engaged in the + leather industry will probably obtain the book for themselves--at + least they would do well to do so.... Altogether the 'Treatise' has + evidently been very carefully prepared, and by a man who thoroughly + knows the subject, and hence it will be a very valuable technical + book for English firms and workers.'--_Walsall Observer._ + + + * * * * * + + +=Books on Pottery, Bricks, Tiles, Glass, etc.= + + * * * * * + +=THE MANUAL OF PRACTICAL POTTING.= Revised and Enlarged. Third Edition. +200 pp. 1901. Price 17s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 18s. 6d.; Other +Countries, 20s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +=Introduction.= The Rise and Progress of the Potter's Art.--Chapters I., +=Bodies.= China and Porcelain Bodies, Parian Bodies, Semi-porcelain and +Vitreous Bodies, Mortar Bodies, Earthenwares Granite and C.C. Bodies, +Miscellaneous Bodies, Sagger and Crucible Clays, Coloured Bodies, Jasper +Bodies, Coloured Bodies for Mosaic Painting, Encaustic Tile Bodies, Body +Stains, Coloured Dips.--II., =Glazes.= China Glazes, Ironstone Glazes, +Earthenware Glazes, Glazes without Lead, Miscellaneous Glazes, Coloured +Glazes, Majolica Colours.--III., =Gold and Cold Colours.= Gold, Purple +of Cassius, Marone and Ruby, Enamel Coloured Bases, Enamel Colour +Fluxes, Enamel Colours, Mixed Enamel Colours, Antique and Vellum Enamel +Colours, Underglaze Colours, Underglaze Colour Fluxes, Mixed Underglaze +Colours, Flow Powders, Oils and Varnishes.--IV., =Means and Methods.= +Reclamation of Waste Gold, The Use of Cobalt, Notes on Enamel Colours, +Liquid or Bright Gold.--V., =Classification and Analysis.= +Classification of Clay Ware, Lord Playfair's Analysis of Clays, The +Markets of the World, Time and Scale of Firing, Weights of Potter's +Material, Decorated Goods Count.--VI., Comparative Loss of Weight of +Clays.--VII., Ground Felspar Calculations.--VIII., The Conversion of +Slop Body Recipes into Dry Weight.--IX., The Cost of Prepared +Earthenware Clay.--X., =Forms and Tables.= Articles of Apprenticeship, +Manufacturer's Guide to Stocktaking, Table of Relative Values of +Potter's Materials, Hourly Wages Table, Workman's Settling Table, +Comparative Guide for Earthenware and China Manufacturers in the use of +Slop Flint and Slop Stone, Foreign Terms applied to Earthenware and +China Goods, Table for the Conversion of Metrical Weights and Measures +on the Continent of South America. =Index.= + + * * * * * + +=CERAMIC TECHNOLOGY=: Being some Aspects of Technical Science as Applied +to Pottery Manufacture. Edited by CHARLES F. BINNS. 100 pp. 1897. Price +12s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 13s. 6d.; Other Countries, 15s.; strictly +net. + +=Contents.= + +Preface.--Introduction.--Chapters I., The Chemistry of Pottery.--II., +Analysis and Synthesis.--III., Clays and their Components.--IV., The +Biscuit Oven.--V., Pyrometry.--VI., Glazes and their Composition.--VII., +Colours and Colour-making.--Index. + + * * * * * + +=RECIPES FOR FLINT GLASS MAKING.= By a British Glass Master and Mixer. +Sixty Recipes. Being Leaves from the Mixing Book of several experts in +the Flint Glass Trade, containing up-to-date recipes and valuable +information as to Crystal, Demi-crystal and Coloured Glass in its many +varieties. It contains the recipes for cheap metal suited to pressing, +blowing, etc., as well as the most costly crystal and ruby. British +manufacturers have kept up the quality of this glass from the arrivals +of the Venetians to Hungry Hill, Stourbridge, up to the present time. +The book also contains remarks as to the result of the metal as it left +the pots by the respective metal mixers, taken from their own memoranda +upon the originals. 1900. Price for United Kingdom, 10s. 6d.; Abroad. +15s.; United States, 84; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Ruby--Ruby from Copper--Flint for using with the Ruby for Coating--A +German Metal --Cornelian, or Alabaster--Sapphire +Blue--Crysophis--Opal--Turquoise Blue--Gold Colour --Dark Green--Green +(common)--Green for Malachite--Blue for Malachite--Black for Melachite +--Black--Common Canary Batch--Canary--White Opaque Glass--Sealing-wax +Red --Flint--Flint Glass (Crystal and Demi)--Achromatic Glass--Paste +Glass--White Enamel --Firestone--Dead White (for moons)--White +Agate--Canary--Canary Enamel--Index. + + * * * * * + +=COLOURING AND DECORATION OF CERAMIC WARE.= By ALEX. BRONGNIART. With +Notes and Additions by ALPHONSE SALVETAT. Translated from the French. +200 pp. 1898. Price 7s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, +8s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +The Pastes, Bodies or Ceramic Articles Capable of being Decorated by +Vitrifiable Colours--The Chemical Preparation of Vitrifiable +Colours--Composition and Preparation of Vitrifiable Colours--The +Oxides--Preparation of Oxides--Preparation of Chromates--Preparation of +other Colours--Composition and Preparation of Fluxes--Muffle +Colours--Recipes for Colours--Use of Metals--Lustres--Preparation and +Application of Colours--Composition of Coloured Pastes--Underglaze +Colours--Colours in the Glaze--Overglaze Colours--Painting in +Vitrifiable Colours--Gilding--Burnishing--Printing--Enlarging and +Reducing Gelatine Prints--Muffle Kilns for Vitrifiable +Colours--Influence of the Material on the Colour--Changes Resulting from +the Actions of the Fire--Alterations Resulting from the +Colours--Alterations in Firing. + + * * * * * + +=HOW TO ANALYSE CLAY.= Practical Methods for Practical Men. By HOLDEN M. +ASHBY, Professor of Organic Chemistry, Harvey Medical College, U.S.A. +Twenty Illustrations. 1898. Price 2s. 6d.; Abroad, 3s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +List of Apparatus--List of Atomic Weights--Use of Balance, and Burette, +Sand Bath, and Water Bath--Dessicator--Drying +Oven--Filtering--Fusion--Determination of Water, Organic Matter, Iron, +Calcium, Alkalies, Limestone, Silica, Alumina, Magnesium, +etc.--Mechanical Analysis--Rational Analysis--Standard +Solutions--Volumetric Analysis--Standards for Clay Analysis--Sampling. + + * * * * * + +=ARCHITECTURAL POTTERY.= Bricks, Tiles, Pipes, Enamelled Terra-cottas, +Ordinary and Incrusted Quarries, Stoneware Mosaics, Faiences and +Architectural Stoneware. By LEON LOUVRE. With Five Plates. 950 +Illustrations in the Text, and numerous estimates. 500 pp., royal 8vo. +1900. Translated from the French by K. H. BIRD, M.A., and W. MOORE +BINNS. Price 15s.; India and Colonies, 16s.; Other Countries, 17s. 6d.; +strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Part I. =Plain Undecorated Pottery.=--Chapter I., Clays: Sec. 1, +Classification, General Geological Remarks.--Classification, Origin, +Locality; Sec. 2, General Properties and Composition: Physical Properties, +Contraction, Analysis, Influence of Various Substances on the Properties +of Clays; Sec. 3, Working of Clay-Pits--I. Open Pits: Extraction, +Transport, Cost--II. Underground Pits--Mining Laws. Chapter II., +Preparation of the Clay: Weathering, Mixing, Cleaning, Crushing and +Pulverising--Crushing Cylinders and Mills, Pounding Machines--Damping: +Damping Machines--Soaking, Shortening, Pugging: Horse and Steam +Pug-Mills, Rolling Cylinders--Particulars of the Above Machines. Chapter +III., Bricks: Sec. 1, Manufacture--(1) Hand and Machine Moulding,--I. +Machines Working by Compression: on Soft Clay, on Semi-Firm Clay, on +Firm Clay, on Dry Clay.--II. Expression Machines: with Cylindrical +Propellers, with Screw Propellers--Dies--Cutting-tables--Particulars of +the Above Machines--General Remarks on the Choice of Machines--Types of +Installations--Estimates--Plenishing, Hand and Steam Presses, +Particulars--(2) Drying, by Exposure to Air, Without Shelter, and Under +Sheds--Drying-rooms in Tiers, Closed Drying-rooms, in Tunnels, in +Galleries--Detailed Estimates of the Various Drying-rooms, Comparison of +Prices--Transport from the Machines to the Drying-rooms, Barrows, +Trucks, Plain or with Shelves, Lifts--(3) Firing--I. In Clamps--II. In +Intermittent Kilns. _A_, Open: _a_, using Wood; _b_ Coal; _b'_, in +Clamps; _b''_, Flame--_B_, Closed: _c_, Direct Flame; _c'_, Rectangular; +_c''_, Round; _d_, Reverberatory--III. Continuous Kilns: _C_, with Solid +Fuel: Round Kiln, Rectangular Kiln, Chimneys (Plans and Estimates)--_D_, +With Gas Fuel, Fillard Kiln (Plans and Estimates), Schneider Kiln (Plans +and Estimates), Water-gas Kiln--Heat Production of the Kilns; Sec. 2, +Dimensions, Shapes, Colours, Decoration, and Quality of Bricks--Hollow +Bricks, Dimensions and Prices of Bricks, Various Shapes, +Qualities--Various Hollow Bricks, Dimensions, Resistance, Qualities; Sec. +3, Applications --History--Asia, Africa, America, Europe: Greek, Roman, +Byzantine, Turkish, Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, +Architecture--Architecture of the Nineteenth Century: in Germany, +England, Belgium, Spain, Holland, France, America--Use of Bricks--Walls, +Arches, Pavements, Flues, Cornices--Facing with Coloured +Bricks--Balustrades. Chapter IV., Tiles: Sec. 1, History; Sec. 2, +Manufacture--(1) Moulding, by Hand, by Machinery: Preparation of the +Clay, Soft Paste, Firm Paste, Hard Paste--Preparation of the Slabs, +Transformation into Flat Tiles, into Jointed Tiles--Screw, Cam and +Revolver Presses--Particulars of Tile-presses--(2) Drying--Planchettes, +Shelves, Drying-barrows and Trucks--(3) Firing--Divided +Kilns--Installation of Mechanical Tileworks--Estimates; Sec. 3, Shapes, +Dimensions and Uses of the Principal Types of Tile--Ancient Tiles: Flat, +Round, Roman, Flemish--Modern Tiles--With Vertical Interrupted Join: +Gilardoni's, Martin's; Hooked, Boulet's Villa; with Vertical Continuous +Join: Muller's, Alsace, Pantile--Foreign Tiles--Special Tiles--Ridge +Tiles, Coping Tiles, Border Tiles, Frontons, Gutters, Antefixes, +Membron, Angular--Roofing Accessories: Chimney-pots, Mitrons, Lanterns, +Chimneys--Qualities of Tiles--Black Tiles--Stoneware Tiles--Particulars +of Tiles. Chapter V., Pipes: I. Conduit Pipes--Manufacture--Moulding: +Horizontal Machines, Vertical Machines, Worked by Hand and +Steam--Particulars of these Machines--Drying--Firing--II. Chimney +Flues--Ventiducts and "Boisseaux," "Waggons"--Particulars of these +Products. Chapter VI., Quarries: 1, Plain Quarries of Ordinary Clay; 2, +of Cleaned Clay--Machines, Cutting, Mixing, Polishing--Drying and +Firing--Applications--Particulars of Quarries. Chapter VII., +Terra-cotta: History--Manufacture--Application: Balustrades, Columns, +Pilasters, Capitals, Friezes, Frontons, Medallions, Panels, +Rose-windows, Ceilings--Appendix: Official Methods of Testing +Terra-cottas. + +Part II. =Made-up or Decorated Pottery.=--Chapter I., General Remarks on +the Decoration of Pottery: Dips--Glazes: Composition, Colouring, +Preparation, Harmony with Pastes--Special Processes of +Decoration--Enamels, Opaque, Transparent, Colours, Underglaze, +Overglaze--Other Processes: Crackling, Mottled, Flashing, Metallic +Iridescence, Lustres. Chapter II., Glazed and Enamelled Bricks--History: +Glazing--Enamelling--Applications: Ordinary Enamelled Bricks, Glazed +Stoneware, Enamelled Stoneware--Enamelled Tiles. Chapter III., Decorated +Quarries: I. Paving Quarries--1, Decorated with Dips--2, Stoneware: _A_, +Fired to Stoneware: _a_, of Slag Base--Applications; _b_, of Melting +Clay--Applications--_B_, Plain or Incrusted Stoneware; _a_, of Special +Clay (Stoke-on-Trent)--Manufacture--Application--_b_, of Felspar +Base--Colouring, Manufacture, Moulding, Drying, +Firing--Applications.--II. Facing Quarries--1, in Faience--_A_, of +Limestone Paste--_B_, of Silicious Paste--_C_, of Felspar +Paste--Manufacture, Firing--2, of Glazed Stoneware--3, of +Porcelain--Applications of Facing Quarries.--III. Stove +Quarries--Preparation of the Pastes, Moulding, Firing, Enamelling, +Decoration--Applications--Faiences for Fireplaces. Chapter IV., +Architectural Decorated Pottery: Sec. 1, Faiences; Sec. 2, Stoneware; Sec. 3, +Porcelain. Chapter V., Sanitary Pottery: Stoneware Pipes: Manufacture, +Firing--Applications--Sinks--Applications--Urinals, Seats and +Pans--Applications--Drinking-fountains, Washstands. Index. + + * * * * * + +=A TREATISE ON THE CERAMIC INDUSTRIES.= + +A Complete Manual for Pottery, Tile and Brick Works. By EMILE BOURRY, +Ingenieur des Arts et Manufactures. Translated from the French by WILTON +P. RIX, Examiner in Pottery and Porcelain to the City and Guilds of +London Technical Institute, Pottery Instructor to the Hanley School +Board. Royal 8vo. 1901. Over 700 pp. Price 21s.; India and Colonies, +22s.; Other Countries, 23s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Part I., =General Pottery Methods.= Chapters I., Definition and History. +Definitions and Classification of Ceramic Products--Historic Summary of +the Ceramic Art.--II., Raw Materials of Bodies. Clays: Pure Clay and +Natural Clays--Various Raw Materials: Analogous to Clay--Agglomerative +and Agglutinative--Opening--Fusible--Refractory--Trials of Raw +Materials.--III., Plastic Bodies. Properties and +Composition--Preparation of Raw Materials: +Disaggregation--Purification--Preparation of Bodies: By Plastic +Method--By Dry Method--By Liquid Method.--IV., Formation. Processes of +Formation: Throwing--Expression--Moulding by Hand, on the Jolley, by +Compression, by Slip Casting--Slapping--Slipping.--V., Drying. Drying of +Bodies--Processes of Drying: By Evaporation--By Aeration--By Heating--By +Ventilation--By Absorption.--VI., Glazes. Composition and +Properties--Raw Materials--Manufacture and Application.--VII., Firing. +Properties of the Bodies and Glazes during Firing--Description of the +Kilns--Working of the Kilns.--VIII., Decoration. Colouring +Materials--Processes of Decoration. + +Part II., =Special Pottery Methods.= Chapters IX., Terra Cottas. +Classification: Plain Ordinary, Hollow, Ornamental, Vitrified, and Light +Bricks--Ordinary and Black Tiles--Paving Tiles--Pipes--Architectural +Terra Cottas--Vases, Statues and Decorative Objects--Common +Pottery--Pottery for Water and Filters--Tobacco Pipes--Lustre +Ware--Properties and Tests for Terra Cottas.--X., Fireclay Goods. +Classification: Argillaceous, Aluminous, Carboniferous, Silicious and +Basic Fireclay Goods--Fireclay Mortar (Pug)--Tests for Fireclay +Goods.--XI. Faiences. Varnished Faiences--Enamelled Faiences--Silicious +Faiences--Pipeclay Faiences--Pebble Work--Feldspathic +Faiences--Composition, Processes of Manufacture and General Arrangements +of Faience Potteries.--XII., Stoneware. Stoneware Properly So-called: +Paving Tiles--Pipes--Sanitary Ware--Stoneware for Food Purposes and +Chemical Productions--Architectural Stoneware--Vases, Statues and other +Decorative Objects--Fine Stoneware.--XIII., Porcelain. Hard Porcelain +for Table Ware and Decoration, for the Fire, for Electrical Conduits, +for Mechanical Purposes; Architectural Porcelain, and Dull or Biscuit +Porcelain--Soft Phosphated or English Porcelain--Soft Vitreous +Porcelain, French and New Sevres--Argillaceous Soft or Seger's +Porcelain--Dull Soft or Parian Porcelain--Dull Feldspathic Soft +Porcelain.--=Index.= + + * * * * * + +=THE ART OF RIVETING GLASS, CHINA AND EARTHENWARE.= By J. HOWARTH. +Second Edition. 1900. Price 1s. net; by post, home or abroad, 1s. 1d. + +=Contents.= + +Tools and Materials Required--Wire Used for Rivets--Soldering +Solution--Preparation for Drilling--Commencement of +Drilling--Cementing--Preliminaries to Riveting--Rivets to Make--To Fix +the Rivets--Through-and-through Rivets--Soldering--Tinning a +Soldering-iron--Perforated Plates, Handles, etc.--Handles of Ewers, +etc.--Vases and Comports--Marble and Alabaster Ware--Decorating--How to +Loosen Fast Decanter Stoppers--China Cements. + +=NOTES OF POTTERY CLAYS.= Their Distribution, Properties, Uses and +Analyses of Ball Clays, China Clays and China Stone. By JAS. FAIRIE, +F.G.S. 1901. 132 pp. Crown 8vo. Price 3s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 4s.; +Other Countries, 4s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Definitions--Occurrence--Brick Clays--Fire Clays--Analyses of Fire +Clays.--=Ball Clays=--Properties--Analyses--Occurrence--Pipe Clay--Black +Clay--Brown Clay--Blue Clay--Dorsetshire and Devonshire Clays.--=China +Clay= or Kaolin--Occurrence--Chinese Kaolin--Cornish Clays--Hensbarrow +Granite--Properties, Analyses and Composition of China Clays--Method of +Obtaining China Clay--Experiments with Chinese Kaolin--Analyses of +Chinese and Japanese Clays and Bodies--Irish Clays.--=Chinese +Stone=--Composition--Occurrence--Analyses.--Index. + + * * * * * + +=PAINTING ON GLASS AND PORCELAIN AND ENAMEL PAINTING.= A Complete +Introduction to the Preparation of all the Colours and Fluxes used for +Painting on Porcelain, Enamel, Faience and Stoneware, the Coloured +Pastes and Coloured Glasses, together with a Minute Description of the +Firing of Colours and Enamels. On the Basis of Personal Practical +Experience of the Condition of the Art up to Date. By FELIX HERMANN, +Technical Chemist. With Eighteen Illustrations. 300 pp. Translated from +the German second and enlarged Edition. 1897. Price 10s. 6d.; India and +Colonies, 11s.; Other Countries, 12s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +History of Glass Painting.--Chapters I., The Articles to be Painted: +Glass, Porcelain, Enamel, Stoneware, Faience.--II., Pigments: 1, +Metallic Pigments: Antimony Oxide, Naples Yellow, Barium Chromate, Lead +Chromate, Silver Chloride, Chromic Oxide.--III., Fluxes: Fluxes, +Felspar, Quartz, Purifying Quartz, Sedimentation, Quenching, Borax, +Boracic Acid, Potassium and Sodium Carbonates, Rocaille Flux.--IV., +Preparation of the Colours for Glass Painting.--V., The Colour +Pastes.--VI., The Coloured Glasses.--VII., Composition of the Porcelain +Colours.--VIII., The Enamel Colours: Enamels for Artistic Work.--IX., +Metallic Ornamentation: Porcelain Gilding, Glass Gilding.--X., Firing +the Colours: 1, Remarks on Firing: Firing Colours on Glass. Firing +Colours on Porcelain; 2, The Muffle.--XI., Accidents occasionally +Supervening during the Process of Firing.--XII., Remarks on the +Different Methods of Painting on Glass, Porcelain, etc.--Appendix: +Cleaning Old Glass Paintings. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "Mr. Hermann, by a careful division of his subject, avoids much + repetition, yet makes sufficiently clear what is necessary to be + known in each art. He gives very many formulae; and his hints on the + various applications of metals and metallic lustres to glass and + porcelains will be found of much interest to the amateur."--_Art + Amateur_, New York. + + "For the unskilled and amateurs the name of the publishers will be + sufficient guarantee for the utility and excellence of Mr. + Hermann's work, even if they are already unacquainted with the + author.... The whole cannot fail to be both of service and interest + to glass workers and to potters generally, especially those + employed upon high-class work."--_Staffordshire Sentinel._ + + "In _Painting on Glass and Porcelain_ the author has dealt very + exhaustively with the technical as distinguished from the artistic + side of his subject, the work being entirely devoted to the + preparation of the colours, their application and firing. For + manufacturers and students it will be a valuable work, and the + recipes which appear on almost every page form a very valuable + feature. The author has gained much of his experience in the + celebrated Sevres manufactory, a fact which adds a good deal of + authority to the work."--_Builders Journal._ + + "The compiler displays that painstaking research characteristic of + his nation, and goes at length into the question of the chemical + constitution of the pigments and fluxes to be used in + glass-painting, proceeding afterwards to a description of the + methods of producing coloured glass of all tints and shades.... + Very careful instructions are given for the chemical and mechanical + preparation of the colours used in glass-staining and + porcelain-painting; indeed, to the china painter such a book as + this should be of permanent value, as the author claims to have + tested and verified every recipe he includes, and the volume also + comprises a section devoted to enamels both opaque and translucent, + and another treating of the firing of porcelain, and the accidents + that occasionally supervene in the furnace."--_Daily Chronicle._ + + * * * * * + +=A Reissue of + +THE HISTORY OF THE STAFFORDSHIRE POTTERIES; AND THE RISE AND PROGRESS OF +THE MANUFACTURE OF POTTERY AND PORCELAIN.= + +With References to Genuine Specimens, and Notices of Eminent Potters. By +SIMEON SHAW. (Originally Published in 1829.) 265 pp. 1900. Demy 8vo. +Price 7s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; +strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +=Introductory Chapter= showing the position of the Pottery Trade at the +present time (1899).--Chapters I., =Preliminary Remarks.=--II., =The +Potteries=, comprising Tunstall, Brownhills, Greenfield and New Field, +Golden Hill, Latebrook, Green Lane, Burslem, Longport and Dale Hall, Hot +Lane and Cobridge, Hanley and Shelton, Etruria, Stoke, Penkhull, Fenton, +Lane Delph, Foley, Lane End.--III., =On the Origin of the Art=, and its +Practice among the early Nations.--IV., =Manufacture of Pottery=, prior +to 1700.--V., =The Introduction of Red Porcelain= by Messrs. Elers, of +Bradwell, 1690.--VI., =Progress of the Manufacture= from 1700 to Mr. +Wedgwood's commencement in 1760.--VII. =Introduction of Fluid +Glaze.=--Extension of the Manufacture of Cream Colour.--Mr. Wedgwood's +Queen's Ware.--Jasper, and Appointment of Potter to Her Majesty.--Black +Printing.--VIII., =Introduction of Porcelain.= Mr. W. Littler's +Porcelain.--Mr. Cookworthy's Discovery of Kaolin and Petuntse, and +Patent.--Sold to Mr. Champion--resold to the New Hall Com.--Extension of +Term.--IX., =Blue Printed Pottery.= Mr. Turner, Mr. Spode (1), Mr. +Baddeley, Mr. Spode (2), Messrs. Turner, Mr. Wood, Mr. Wilson, Mr. +Minton.--Great Change in Patterns of Blue Printed.--X., =Introduction of +Lustre Pottery.= Improvements in Pottery and Porcelain subsequent to +1800. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "There is much curious and useful information in the work, and the + publishers have rendered the public a service in reissuing + it."--_Burton Mail._ + + "Copies of the original work are now of considerable value, and the + facsimile reprint now issued cannot but prove of considerable + interest to all interested in the great industry."--_Derby Mercury._ + + "The book will be especially welcomed at a time when interest in the + art of pottery manufacture commands a more widespread and general + interest than at any previous time."--_Wolverhampton Chronicle._ + + "This work is all the more valuable because it gives one an idea of + the condition of affairs existing in the north of Staffordshire + before the great increase in work and population due to modern + developments."--_Western Morning News._ + + "The History gives a graphic picture of North Staffordshire at the + end of the last and the beginning of the present century, and states + that in 1829 there was 'a busy and enterprising community' in the + Potteries of fifty thousand persons.... We commend it to our readers + as a most entertaining and instructive publication,"--_Staffordshire + Sentinel._ + + * * * * * + +=A Reissue of= + +=THE CHEMISTRY OF THE SEVERAL NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL HETEROGENEOUS +COMPOUNDS USED IN MANUFACTURING PORCELAIN, GLASS AND POTTERY.= + +By SIMEON SHAW. + +(Originally published in 1837.) 750 pp. 1900. Royal 8vo. Price 14s.; +India and Colonies, 15s.; Other Countries, 16s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +PART I., ANALYSIS AND MATERIALS.--Chapters I., =Introduction:= +Laboratory and Apparatus; =Elements:= Combinative Potencies, +Manipulative Processes for Analysis and Reagents, Pulverisation, +Blow-pipe Analysis, Humid Analysis, Preparatory Manipulations, General +Analytic Processes, Compounds Soluble in Water, Compounds Soluble only +in Acids, Compounds (Mixed) Soluble in Water, Compounds (Mixed) Soluble +in Acids, Compounds (Mixed) Insoluble, Particular Analytic +Processes.--II., =Temperature:= Coal, Steam Heat for Printers' +Stoves.--III., =Acids and Alkalies:= Boracic Acid, Muriatic Acid, Nitric +Acid, Sulphuric Acid, Potash, Soda, Lithia, Calculation of Chemical +Separations.--IV., =The Earths:= Alumine, Clays, Silica, Flint, Lime, +Plaster of Paris, Magnesia, Barytes, Felspar, Grauen (or China Stone), +China Clay, Chert.--V., =Metals:= Reciprocal Combinative Potencies of +the Metals, Antimony, Arsenic, Chromium, Green Oxide, Cobalt, Chromic +Acid, Humid Separation of Nickel from Cobalt, Arsenite of Cobalt, +Copper, Gold, Iron, Lead, Manganese, Platinum, Silver, Tin, Zinc. + +PART II., SYNTHESIS AND COMPOUNDS.--Chapters I., Sketch of the Origin +and Progress of the Art.--II., =Science of Mixing:= Scientific +Principles of the Manufacture, Combinative Potencies of the +Earths.--III., =Bodies:= Porcelain--Hard, Porcelain--Fritted Bodies, +Porcelain--Raw Bodies, Porcelain--Soft, Fritted Bodies, Raw Bodies, +Stone Bodies, Ironstone, Dry Bodies, Chemical Utensils, Fritted Jasper, +Fritted Pearl, Fritted Drab, Raw Chemical Utensils, Raw Stone, Raw +Jasper, Raw Pearl, Raw Mortar, Raw Drab, Raw Brown, Raw Fawn, Raw Cane, +Raw Red Porous, Raw Egyptian, Earthenware, Queen's Ware, Cream Colour, +Blue and Fancy Printed, Dipped and Mocha, Chalky, Rings, Stilts, +etc.--IV., =Glazes:= Porcelain--Hard Fritted, Porcelain--Soft Fritted, +Porcelain--Soft Raw, Cream Colour Porcelain, Blue Printed Porcelain, +Fritted Glazes, Analysis of Fritt, Analysis of Glaze, Coloured Glazes, +Dips, Smears and Washes: =Glasses:= Flint Glass, Coloured Glasses, +Artificial Garnet, Artificial Emerald, Artificial Amethyst, Artificial +Sapphire, Artificial Opal, Plate Glass, Crown Glass, Broad Glass, Bottle +Glass, Phosphoric Glass, British Steel Glass, Glass-Staining and +Painting, Engraving on Glass, Dr. Faraday's Experiments.--V., =Colours:= +Colour Making, Fluxes or Solvents, Components of the Colours: Reds, +etc., from Gold, Carmine or Rose Colour, Purple, Reds, etc., from Iron, +Blues, Yellows, Greens, Blacks, White, Silver for Burnishing, Gold for +Burnishing, Printer's Oil, Lustres. + +PART III., TABLES OF THE CHARACTERISTICS OF CHEMICAL +SUBSTANCES.--Preliminary Remarks, Oxygen (Tables), Sulphur and its +Compounds, Nitrogen ditto, Chlorine ditto, Bromine ditto, Iodine ditto, +Fluorine ditto, Phosphorous ditto, Boron ditto, Carbon ditto, Hydrogen +ditto, Observations, Ammonium and its Compounds (Tables), Thorium ditto, +Zirconium ditto, Aluminium ditto, Yttrium ditto, Glucinum ditto, +Magnesium ditto, Calcium ditto, Strontium ditto, Barium ditto, Lithium +ditto, Sodium and its Compounds Potassium ditto, Observations, Selenium +and its Compounds (Tables), Arsenic ditto, Chromium ditto, Vanadium +ditto, Molybdenum ditto, Tungsten ditto, Antimony ditto, Tellurium +ditto, Tantalum ditto, Titanium ditto, Silicium ditto, Osmium ditto, +Gold ditto, Iridium ditto, Rhodium ditto, Platinum ditto, Palladium +ditto, Mercury ditto, Silver ditto, Copper ditto, Uranium ditto, Bismuth +and its Compounds, Tin ditto, Lead ditto, Cerium ditto, Cobalt ditto, +Nickel ditto, Iron ditto, Cadmium ditto, Zinc ditto, Manganese ditto, +Observations, Isomorphous Groups, Isomeric ditto, Metameric ditto, +Polymeric ditto, Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + +"This interesting volume has been kept from the pencil of the modern +editor and reprinted in its entirety by the enterprising publishers of +_The Pottery Gazette_ and other trade journals.... There is an excellent +historical sketch of the origin and progress of the art of pottery which +shows the intimate knowledge of classical as well as (the then) modern +scientific literature possessed by the late Dr. Shaw; even the etymology +of many of the Staffordshire place-names is given."--_Glasgow Herald._ + +"The historical sketch of the origin and progress of pottery is very +interesting and instructive. The science of mixing is a problem of great +importance, and the query how the natural products, alumina and silica +can be compounded to form the best wares may be solved by the aid of +chemistry instead of by guesses, as was formerly the case. This portion +of the book may be most suggestive to the manufacturer, as also the +chapters devoted to the subject of glazes, glasses and +colours."--_Birmingham Post._ + +"Messrs. Scott, Greenwood & Co. are doing their best to place before the +pottery trades some really good books, likely to aid the Staffordshire +manufacturers, and their spirited enterprise is worthy of encouragement, +for the utility of technical literature bearing upon the practical side +of potting goes without saying.... They are to be congratulated on their +enterprise in republishing it, and we can only hope that they will meet +with the support they deserve. It seems to be a volume that is worth +looking through by both manufacturers and operatives alike, and all +local institutions, at any rate, should secure copies."--_Staffordshire +Sentinel._ + + + * * * * * + + +=Paper Making.= + + * * * * * + +=THE DYEING OF PAPER PULP.= A Practical Treatise for the use of +Papermakers, Paperstainers. Students and others. By JULIUS ERFURT, +Manager of a Paper Mill. Translated into English and Edited with +Additions by JULIUS HUeBNER, F.C.S., Lecturer on Papermaking at the +Manchester Municipal Technical School. With Illustrations and =157 +patterns of paper dyed in the pulp.= Royal 8vo, 180 pp. 1901. Price +15s.; India and Colonies, 16s.; Other Countries, 20s.; strictly net. +Limited edition. + +=Contents.= + +I., =Behaviour of the Paper Fibres during the Process of Dyeing, Theory +of the Mordant=--Cotton: Flax and Hemp; Esparto; Jute; Straw Cellulose: +Chemical and Mechanical Wood Pulp; Mixed Fibres: Theory of Dyeing.--II., +=Colour Fixing Mediums (Mordants)=--Alum: Aluminium Sulphate; Aluminium +Acetate; Tin Crystals (Stannous Chloride); Copperas (Ferrous Sulphate); +Nitrate of Iron (Ferric Sulphate); Pyrolignite of Iron (Acetate of +Iron); Action of Tannic Acid; Importance of Materials containing Tannin; +Treatment with Tannic Acid of Paper Pulp intended for dyeing; Blue Stone +(Copper Sulphate): Potassium Bichromate: Sodium Bichromate; Chalk +(Calcium Carbonate); Soda Crystals (Sodium Carbonate): Antimony +Potassium Tartrate (Tartar Emetic).--III., =Influence of the Quality of +the Water Used.=--IV., =Inorganic Colours=--1. Artificial Mineral +Colours: Iron Buff; Manganese Bronze: Chrome Yellow (Chromate of Lead): +Chrome Orange (Basic Chromate of Lead): Red Lead; Chrome Green: Blue +with Yellow Prussiate: Prussian Blue: Method for Producing Prussian Blue +free from Acid: Ultramarine--2. Natural Mineral Colours (Earth Colours): +Yellow Earth Colours: Red Earth Colours; Brown Earth Colours; Green, +Grey and Black Earth Colours: White Earth Colours: White Clay (China +Clay): White Gypsum; Baryta: Magnesium Carbonate: Talc, Soapstone.--V., +=Organic Colours=--1. Colours of Vegetable and Animal Origin: _(a) +Substantive (Direct Dyeing) Colouring Matters:_ Annatto; Turmeric: +Safflower; _(b) Adjective (Indirect Dyeing) Colouring Matters:_ Redwood; +Cochineal; Weld: Persian Berries; Fustic Extract; Quercitron: Catechu +(Cutch); Logwood Extract--2. Artificial Organic (Coal Tar) Colours: Acid +Colours; Basic Colours: Substantive (Direct Dyeing) Colours; Dissolving +of the Coal Tar Colours: Auramine O O; Naphthol Yellow S O; Quinoline +Yellow O: Metanil Yellow O: Paper Yellow O: Azoflavine RS O, S O; Cotton +Yellow G X X and R X X: Orange 11 O: Chrysoidine A O O, RL O O: Vesuvine +Extra O O; Vesuvine BC O O; Fast. + +Brown O, Naphthylamine Brown O; Water Blue IN O; Water Blue TB O; +Victoria Blue B O O; Methylene Blue MD O O; Nile Blue R O O; New Blue +S O O; Indoine Blue BB O O; Eosine 442 Nx; Phloxine B B N; Rhodamine B +O O; Rhodamine 6G O O: Naphthylamine Red G O; Fast Red A O; Cotton +Scarlet O; Erythrine RR O; Erythrine X O; Erythrine P O; Ponceau 2 R +O; Fast Ponceau G O and B O; Paper Scarlet P O O; Saffranine PP O O; +Magenta Powder A O O; Acetate of Magenta O O; Cerise D 10 O O; Methyl +Violet BB O O; Crystal Violet O O; Acid Violet 3 BN O, 4 R O; Diamond +Green B O O; Nigrosine WL O; Coal Black O O; Brilliant Black B +O.--VI., =Practical Application of the Coal Tar Colours according to +their Properties and their Behaviour towards the Different Paper +Fibres=--Coal Tar Colours, which rank foremost, as far as their +fastness to light is concerned; Colour Combinations with which +colourless or nearly colourless Backwater is obtained; Colours which +do not bleed into White Fibres, for Blotting and Copying Paper Pulp; +Colours which produce the best results on Mechanical Wood and on +Unbleached Sulphite Wood; Dyeing of Cotton, Jute and Wool Half-stuff +for Mottling White or Light Coloured Papers; Colours suitable for +Cotton; Colours specially suitable for Jute Dyeing; Colours suitable +for Wool Fibres.--VII., =Dyed Patterns on Various Pulp +Mixtures=--Placard and Wrapping Papers; Black Wrapping and Cartridge +Papers; Blotting Papers; Mottled and Marbled Papers made with Coloured +Linen, Cotton and Union Rags, or with Cotton, Jute, Wool and Sulphite +Wood Fibres, dyed specially for this purpose; Mottling with Dark Blue +Linen; Mottling with Dark Blue Linen and Dark Blue Cotton; Mottling +with Dark Blue Cotton; Mottling with Dark Blue and Red Cotton; +Mottling with Dark Red Cotton; Mottling of Bleached Stuff, with 3 to 4 +per cent. of Dyed Cotton Fibres; Mottling with Dark Blue Union (Linen +and Wool or Cotton Warp with Wool Weft); Mottling with Blue Striped +Red Union; Mottling of Bleached Stuff with 3 to 4 per cent. of Dyed +Wool Fibres; Mottling of Bleached Stuff with 3 to 4 per cent. of Dyed +Jute Fibres; Mottling of Bleached Stuff with 3 to 4 per cent. of Dyed +Sulphite Wood Fibres: Wall Papers; Packing Papers.--VIII., =Dyeing to +Shade=--Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "The book is one that is of value to every one connected with the + colouring of paper."--_Paper Trade Journal._ + + "The great feature of the volume is undoubtedly the series of + actual patterns of dyed papers, 157 in all--twelve of which, made + in England, have been added to the original German series. Detailed + formulae are given for the preparation of the pulp for each, and the + tints of the samples practically form a key, by means of which the + accuracy of the student's or practitioner's experiments can be + tested.... On the whole the publication is one of distinct + importance to the trade, and will no doubt speedily become a + standard work of reference amongst papermakers, both in the 'lab.' + and the office, as well as being an excellent text-book for the use + of students in the increasing number of technical institutes in + which papermaking is taught."--_World's Paper Trade Review._ + + + * * * * * + + +=Enamelling on Metal.= + + * * * * * + +=ENAMELS AND ENAMELLING.= An Introduction to the Preparation and +Application of all Kinds of Enamels for Technical and Artistic Purposes. +For Enamel Makers, Workers in Gold and Silver, and Manufacturers of +Objects of Art. By PAUL RANDAU. Translated from the German. With Sixteen +Illustrations. 180 pp. 1900. Price 10s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 11s.; +Other Countries, 12s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +I., Introduction.--II., Composition and Properties of Glass.--III., Raw +Materials for the Manufacture of Enamel.--IV., Substances Added to +Produce Opacity.--V., Fluxes.--VI., Pigments.--VII., Decolorising +Agents.--VIII., Testing the Raw Materials with the Blow-pipe +Flame.--IX., Subsidiary Materials.--X., Preparing the Materials for +Enamel Making.--XI., Mixing the Materials.--XII., The Preparation of +Technical Enamels, The Enamel Mass.--XIII., Appliances for Smelting the +Enamel Mass.--XIV., Smelting the Charge.--XV., Composition of Enamel +Masses.--XVI., Composition of Masses for Ground Enamels.--XVII., +Composition of Cover Enamels.--XVIII., Preparing the Articles for +Enamelling.--XIX., Applying the Enamel.--XX., Firing the Ground +Enamel.--XXI., Applying and Firing the Cover Enamel or Glaze.--XXII., +Repairing Defects in Enamelled Ware.--XXIII., Enamelling Articles of +Sheet Metal.--XXIV., Decorating Enamelled Ware.--XXV., Specialities in +Enamelling.--XXVI., Dial-plate Enamelling.--XXVII., Enamels for Artistic +Purposes, Recipes for Enamels of Various Colours.--Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "Should prove of great service to all who are either engaged in or + interested in the art of enamelling."--_Jewellers and Watchmakers' + Trade Advertiser._ + + "I must inform you that this is the best book ever I have come + across on enamels, and it is worth double its cost."--J. MINCHIN, + Jr., Porto, Portugal, _22nd July, 1900_. + + "This is a very useful and thoroughly practical treatise, and deals + with every branch of the enameller's art. The manufacture of + enamels of various colours and the methods of their application are + described in detail. Besides the commoner enamelling processes, + some of the more important special branches of the business, such + as cloisonne work are dealt with. The work is well got up, and the + illustrations of apparatus are well executed. The translator is + evidently a man well acquainted both with the German language and + the subject-matter of the book."--_Invention._ + + "This is a most welcome volume, and one for which we have long + waited in this country. For years we have been teaching design + applied to enamelling as well as to several other crafts, but we + have not risen to the scientific side of the question. Here is a + handbook dealing with the composition and making of enamels for + application to metals for the most part, but also for other allied + purposes. It is written in a thoroughly practical way [Transcribers + Note: Text source unreadable], and its author--Paul Randau--has made + its subject a very particular study. The [Transcribers Note: Text + source unreadable] almost all things which come from the German + chemical expert, is a model of good workmanship [Transcribers Note: + Text source unreadable] and arrangement, and no one who is in search + of a handbook to enamelling, [Transcribers Note: Text source + unreadable] whether he is a craftsman producing his beautiful + translucent colours on gold, silver and copper, or the hollow-ware + manufacturer making enamelled saucepans and kettles, can wish for a + more useful practical manual."--_Birmingham Gazette._ + + * * * * * + +=THE ART OF ENAMELLING ON METAL.= By W. NORMAN BROWN. Twenty-eight +Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 60 pp. 1900. Price 2s. 6d.; Abroad, 3s.; +strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., History--Cloisonne--Champs Leve--Translucent +Enamel--Surface Painted Enamels.--II., Cloisonne--Champs +Leves--Translucent--Painted.--III., Painted Enamel--Apparatus--Furnaces +and Muffles for Firing.--IV., The Copper Base or +Plate--Planishing--Cloisons--Champ Leve Plates.--V., +Enamels--Trituration--Washing--Coating a Plate with Enamel--Firing +Ordinary Plaques for Painting--Designing--Squaring off.--VI., Designs +for Cloisonne--Designs for Painted Enamels--Technical +Processes--Brushes, etc.,--Colours--Grisaille--Full-coloured Designs. + +=Press Opinion.= + + "The information conveyed in _The Art of Enamelling on Metal_ is as + complete as can be expected in a manual of ordinary length, and is + quite ample in all respects to start students in a most interesting + branch of decorative art. All necessary requisites are fully + described and illustrated, and the work is one, indeed, which any + one may pursue with interest, for those who are interested + artistically in enamels are a numerous body."--_Hardware Metals and + Machinery._ + + + * * * * * + + +=Books on Textile and Dyeing Subjects.= + + * * * * * + +=THE TECHNICAL TESTING OF YARNS AND TEXTILE FABRICS.= With Reference to +Official Specifications. Translated from the German of Dr. J. HERZFELD. +Second Edition. Sixty-nine Illustrations. 200 pp. Demy 8vo. 1901. Price +10s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 11s.; Other Countries, 12s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Yarn Testing:. III., Determining the Yarn Number.--IV., Testing the +Length of Yarns.--V., Examination of the External Appearance of +Yarn.--VI., Determining the Twist of Yarn and Twist.--VII., +Determination of Tensile Strength and Elasticity.--VIII., Estimating the +Percentage of Fat in Yarn.--IX., Determination of Moisture +(Conditioning).--Appendix. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "It would be well if our English manufacturers would avail + themselves of this important addition to the extensive list of + German publications which, by the spread of technical information, + contribute in no small degree to the success, and sometimes to the + supremacy, of Germany in almost every branch of textile + manufacture."--_Manchester Courier._ + + "This is probably the most exhaustive book published in English on + the subject dealt with.... We have great confidence in recommending + the purchase of this book by all manufacturers of textile goods of + whatever kind, and are convinced that the concise and direct way in + which it is written, which has been admirably conserved by the + translator, renders it peculiarly adapted for the use of English + readers."--_Textile Recorder._ + + "A careful study of this book enables one to say with certainty + that it is a standard work on the subject. Its importance is + enhanced greatly by the probability that we have here, for the + first time in our own language, in one volume, a full, accurate, + and detailed account, by a practical expert, of the best technical + methods for the testing of textile materials, whether in the raw + state or in the more or less finished product."--_Glasgow Herald._ + + "The author has endeavoured to collect and arrange in systematic + form for the first time all the data relating to both physical and + chemical tests as used throughout the whole of the textile + industry, so that not only the commercial and textile chemist, who + has frequently to reply to questions on these matters, but also the + practical manufacturer of textiles and his subordinates, whether in + spinning, weaving, dyeing, and finishing, are catered for.... The + book is profusely illustrated, and the subjects of these + illustrations are clearly described."--_Textile Manufacturer._ + + * * * * * + +=DECORATIVE AND FANCY TEXTILE FABRICS.= + +With Designs and Illustrations. By R.T. LORD. A Valuable Book for +Manufacturers and Designers of Carpets, Damask, Dress and all Textile +Fabrics. 200 pp. 1898. Demy 8vo. 132 Designs and Illustrations. Price +7s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly +net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., A Few Hints on Designing Ornamental Textile Fabrics.--II., +A Few Hints on Designing Ornamental Textile Fabrics (continued).--III., +A Few Hints on Designing Ornamental Textile Fabrics (continued).--IV., A +Few Hints on Designing Ornamental Textile Fabrics (continued).--V., +Hints for Ruled-paper Draughtsmen.--VI., The Jacquard Machine.--VII., +Brussels and Wilton Carpets.--VIII., Tapestry Carpets.--IX., Ingrain +Carpets.--X., Axminster Carpets.--XI., Damask and Tapestry +Fabrics.--XII., Scarf Silks and Ribbons.--XIII., Silk +Handkerchiefs.--XIV., Dress Fabrics.--XV., Mantle Cloths.--XVI., Figured +Plush.--XVII., Bed Quilts.--XVIII., Calico Printing. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "The book can be strongly recommended to students and practical + men."--_Textile Colourist._ + + "Those engaged in the designing of dress, mantle tapestry, carpet + and other ornamental textiles will find this volume a useful work + of reference."--_Leeds Mercury._ + + "The book is to be commended as a model manual, appearing at an + opportune time, since every day is making known a growing desire + for development in British industrial art."--_Dundee Advertiser._ + + "Designers especially, who desire to make progress in their + calling, will do well to take the hints thrown out in the first + four chapters on 'Designing Ornamental Textile Fabrics'."--_Nottingham + Daily Guardian._ + + * * * * * + +=POWER-LOOM WEAVING AND YARN NUMBERING.= According to Various Systems, +with Conversion Tables. An Auxiliary and Text-book for Pupils of Weaving +Schools, as well as for Self-Instruction and for General Use by those +engaged in the Weaving Industry. Translated from the German of ANTHON +GRUNER. =With Twenty-six Diagrams in Colours.= 150 pp. 1900. Crown 8vo. +Price 7s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; +strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +I., =Power-Loom Weaving in General.= Various Systems of Looms.--II., +=Mounting and Starting the Power-Loom.= English Looms.--Tappet or +Treadle Looms.--Dobbies.--III., =General Remarks on the Numbering, +Reeling and Packing-of Yarn.=--=Appendix.=--=Useful Hints.= Calculating +Warps.--Weft Calculations.--Calculations of Cost Price in Hanks. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "A long-felt want in the weaving industry has been supplied by the + issue of a cheap volume dealing with the subject."--_Belfast Evening + Telegraph._ + + "The work has been clearly translated from the German and published + with suitable illustrations.... The author has dealt very + practically with the subject."--_Bradford Daily Telegraph._ + + "The book, which contains a number of useful coloured diagrams, + should prove invaluable to the student, and its handy form will + enable it to become a companion more than some cumbrous work." + --_Cotton Factory Times._ + + "The book has been prepared with great care, and is most usefully + illustrated. It is a capital text-book for use in the weaving + schools or for self-instruction, while all engaged in the weaving + industry will find its suggestions helpful."--_Northern Daily + Telegraph._ + + "The various systems are treated in a careful manner; also the + different looms and their manufacture, as well as the whole + processes of the work. Yarn numbering according to various systems, + with conversion tables and numerous coloured diagrams, materially + assist to a clear comprehension of the subject."--_Northern Whig._ + + "The 'inside' managers of our textile mills in which the work is + complex or greatly varied, and where yarns of different materials + are in use, will find this work convenient for reference in case of + novelty or difficulty. We may also say the same in relation to the + textile student. Its description of the parts of the loom and their + functions will be of use to the latter, being of the most + elementary kind."--_Textile Mercury._ + + "The author attempts to fill a gap in weaving literature caused by + the neglect of many obscure points connected with the industry. A + short review is given of the power-loom as a whole, followed by a + description of the different parts of the machinery with their + advantages and defects.... The book is severely technical, but must + on that account be very valuable to the pupil who is determined to + master this industrial art."--_Cheshire County News._ + + "It is clear and concise, and gives just that knowledge in quality + and amount which any student of the weaving industry ought to + consider as a minimum necessary for his thorough comprehension of + his future profession. The handiness and variety of the information + comprised in Section III., dealing with the numbering and reeling + of yarns employed in the various systems in different countries, + struck us as particularly useful."--_North British Daily Mail._ + + "This work brings before weavers who are actually engaged in the + various branches of fabrics, as well as the technical student, the + different parts of the general run of power-looms in such a manner + that the parts of the loom and their bearing to each other can be + readily understood.... The work should prove of much value, as it + is in every sense practical, and is put before the reader in such a + clear manner that it can be easily understood."--_Textile Industries._ + + "The book under notice is intended as an instructor to those + engaged in power-loom weaving, and, judging by its compilation, the + author is a thorough master of the craft. It is not overloaded with + details, and he manages to compress in a book of some 150 pages all + that one can possibly wish to know about the different parts of the + machinery, whether of English or foreign make, and for whatever + kind of cloth required. A comprehensive summary is also included of + the various yarns and methods of numbering them, as well as a few + useful hints and a number of coloured diagrams for mandarin + weavings. The book is printed in bold, legible type, on good paper, + has a copious index, and is well and strongly + bound."--_Ashton-under-Lyne Herald._ + + "In dealing with the complicated parts of various classes of + power-looms, the writer, who is one of the professors at the Royal + Weaving School of Asch, brings to the work a thorough knowledge of + the subject, and, what is of great value, he has the gift of + communicating his knowledge in a way which is easily understood. + The smallest details of loom-setting are entered into, and a full + explanation of problems, which are a source of anxiety to many + engaged in overlooking, is given. Students will find the work an + admirable text-book, and all who are interested in weaving will see + in it a valuable addition to the literature on this subject.... The + book is in small compass, and is crowded with valuable + information."--_Bradford Observer._ + + * * * * * + +=COLOUR: A HANDBOOK OF THE THEORY OF COLOUR.= By GEORGE H. HURST, F.C.S. +=With Ten Coloured Plates= and Seventy-two Illustrations. 160 pp. Demy +8vo. 1900. Price 7s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. +6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., =Colour and Its Production.= Light, Colour, Dispersion of +White Light Methods of Producing the Spectrum, Glass Prism and +Diffraction Grating Spectroscopes, The Spectrum, Wave Motion of Light, +Recomposition of White Light, Hue, Luminosity, Purity of Colours, The +Polariscope, Phosphorescence, Fluorescence, Interference.--II., =Cause +of Colour in Coloured Bodies.= Transmitted Colours, Absorption Spectra +of Colouring Matters.--III., =Colour Phenomena and Theories.= Mixing +Colours, White Light from Coloured Lights, Effect of Coloured Light on +Colours, Complementary Colours, Young-Helmholtz Theory, Brewster Theory, +Supplementary Colours, Maxwell's Theory, Colour Photography.--IV., =The +Physiology of Light.= Structure of the Eye, Persistence of Vision, +Subjective Colour Phenomena, Colour Blindness.--V., =Contrast.= +Contrast, Simultaneous Contrast, Successive Contrast, Contrast of Tone. +Contrast of Colours, Modification of Colours by Contrast, Colour +Contrast in Decorative Design.--VI., =Colour in Decoration and Design.= +Colour Harmonies, Colour Equivalents, Illumination and Colour, Colour +and Textile Fabrics, Surface Structure and Colour.--VII., =Measurement +of Colour.= Colour Patch Method, The Tintometer, Chromometer. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "This useful little book possesses considerable merit, and will be + of great utility to those for whom it is primarily + intended."--_Birmingham Post._ + + "It will be found to be of direct service to the majority of dyers, + calico printers and colour mixers, to whom we confidently recommend + it."--_Chemical Trade Journal._ + + "It is thoroughly practical, and gives in simple language the why + and wherefore of the many colour phenomena which perplex the dyer + and the colourist."--_Dyer and Calico Printer._ + + "We have found the book very interesting, and can recommend it to + all who wish to master the different aspects of colour theory, with + a view to a practical application of the knowledge so + gained."--_Chemist and Druggist._ + + "Mr. Hurst's _Handbook on the Theory of Colour_ will be found + extremely useful, not only to the art student, but also to the + craftsman, whose business it is to manipulate pigments and + dyes."--_Nottingham Daily Guardian._ + + * * * * * + +=TEXTILE RAW MATERIALS AND THEIR CONVERSION INTO YARNS.= (The Study of +the Raw Materials and the Technology of the Spinning Process.) Text-book +for Textile, Trade and Higher Technical Schools. By JULIUS ZIPSER. +Translated from German by CHARLES SALTER. 302 Illustrations. 480 pp. +Demy 8vo. 1901. Price 10s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 11s.; Other +Countries, 12s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +=Raw Materials=: Cotton--Wool--Flax--Hemp--Jute--Hair--Shearing +Sheep--Goat Wool--Silk--Detection and Estimation of Textile Raw +Materials in Yarns and Fabrics--Tests.--=The Technology of Spinning. +Cotton Spinning:= Bale Breakers--Carding--Combing--Roving--Mule +Frames--Yarn Testing--Humidifiers. =Flax Spinning:= Tow Spinning--String +Spinning--Carded Woollen Yarn--Belt Condenser--Fine Spinning--Yarn +Numbering.--=Manufacture of True Worsted Yarn:= Semi-Worsted +Yarns.--=Artificial Wool or Shoddy Spinning:= Spinning +Shoddy.--=Index.= + + * * * * * + +=THE COLOUR PRINTING OF CARPET YARNS.= A Useful Manual for Colour +Chemists and Textile Printers. By DAVID PATERSON, F.C.S. Seventeen +Illustrations. 132 pp. Demy 8vo. 1900. Price 7s. 6d.; India and +Colonies, 8s. Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Structure and Constitution of Wool Fibre.--II., Yarn +Scouring.--III., Scouring Materials.--IV., Water for Scouring.--V., +Bleaching Carpet Yarns.--VI., Colour Making for Yarn Printing.--VII., +Colour Printing Pastes.--VIII., Colour Recipes for Yarn Printing.--IX., +Science of Colour Mixing.--X., Matching of Colours.--XI., "Hank" +Printing.--XII., Printing Tapestry Carpet Yarns.--XIII., Yarn +Printing.--XIV., Steaming Printed Yarns.--XV., Washing of Steamed +Yarns.--XVI., Aniline Colours Suitable for Yarn Printing.--XVII., +Glossary of Dyes and Dye-wares used in Wood Yarn Printing.--Appendix. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "The book is worthy the attention of the trade."--_Worcester + Herald._ + + "The treatise is arranged with great care, and follows the processes + described in a manner at once clear and convincing."--_Glasgow + Record._ + + "A most useful manual dealing in an intelligible and interesting + manner with the colour printing of carpet yarns."--_Kidderminster + Times._ + + "An eminent expert himself, the author has evidently strained every + effort in order to make his work the standard guide of its + class."--_Leicester Post._ + + "The book, which is admirably printed and illustrated, should fulfil + the need of a practical guide in the colour printing of carpet + yarns.--_Nottingham Express._ + + "The subject is very exhaustively treated in all its branches.... + The work, which is very well illustrated with designs, machines, and + wool fibres, will be a useful addition to our textile + literature."--_Northern Whig._ + + "It gives an account of its subject which is both valuable and + instructive in itself, and likely to be all the more welcome because + books dealing with textile fabrics usually have little or nothing to + say about this way of decorating them."--_Scotsman._ + + "The work shows a thorough grasp of the leading characteristics as + well as the minutiae of the industry, and gives a lucid description + of its chief departments.... As a text-book in technical schools + where this branch of industrial education is taught, the book is + valuable, or it may be perused with pleasure as well as profit by + any one having an interest in textile industries."--_Dundee + Courier._ + + "The book bears every mark of an extensive practical knowledge of + the subject in all its bearings, and supplies a real want in + technical literature. Chapters IX. and X., on the science of colour + mixing and colour matching respectively, are especially good, and + we do not remember to have seen the bearing of various kinds of + light, and of the changes from one kind of light to another on the + work of the colourist, so well treated elsewhere."--_Dyer and Calico + Printer._ + + "It is thoroughly practical, and contains much information which has + not hitherto appeared in book form. It is pleasing to note that the + practical part is not crowded out with purely 'practical recipes'. A + few typical examples are given, and the rest is left to the common + sense and judgment of the printer or works' chemist. Another + pleasing feature is the accounts given here and there of the + author's own researches on the subject. The work will be of interest + to printers of wool generally, and to those engaged in the dyeing of + this fibre."--_Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists._ + + * * * * * + +=A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE BLEACHING OF LINEN AND COTTON YARN AND +FABRICS.= By L. TAILFER, Chemical and Mechanical Engineer. Translated +from the French by JOHN GEDDES MCINTOSH, Lecturer on Chemical +Technology, London. Demy 8vo. 1901. Price 12s. 6d.; India and Colonies, +13s. 6d; Other Countries, 15s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapter I. General Considerations on Bleaching. Chapter II. Steeping. +Chapter III. Washing: Its End and Importance--Roller Washing +Machines--Wash Wheel (Dash Wheel)--Stocks or Wash Mill--Squeezing. +Chapter IV. Lye Boiling--Lye Boiling with Milk of Lime--Lye Boiling with +Soda Lyes--Description of Lye Boiling Keirs--Operations of Lye +Boiling--Concentration of Lyes. Chapter V. Mather and Platt's +Keir--Description of the Keir--Saturation of the Fabrics--Alkali used in +Lye Boiling--Examples of Processes. Chapter VI. Soap--Action of Soap in +Bleaching--Quality and Quantity of Soaps to use in the Lye--Soap Lyes or +Scalds--Soap Scouring Stocks. Chapter VII. Bleaching on Grass or on the +Bleaching Green or Lawn. Chapter VIII. Chemicking--Remarks on Chlorides +and their Decolourising Action--Chemicking +Cisterns--Chemicking--Strengths, etc. Chapter IX. Sours--Properties of +the Acids--Effects Produced by Acids--Souring Cisterns. Chapter X. +Drying--Drying by Steam--Drying by Hot Air--Drying by Air. Chapter XI. +Damages to Fabrics in Bleaching--Yarn Mildew--Fermentation--Iron Rust +Spots--Spots from Contact with Wood--Spots incurred on the Bleaching +Green--Damages arising from the Machines. Chapter XII. Examples of +Methods used in Bleaching--Linen--Cotton. Chapter XIII. The Valuation of +Caustic and Carbonated Alkali (Soda) and General Information Regarding +these Bodies--Object of Alkalimetry--Titration of Carbonate of +Soda--Comparative Table of Different Degrees of Alkalimetrical +Strength--Five Problems relative to Carbonate of Soda --Caustic Soda, +its Properties and Uses--Mixtures of Carbonated and Caustic Alkali--Note +on a Process of Manufacturing Caustic Soda and Mixtures of Caustic and +Carbonated Alkali (soda). Chapter XIV. Chlorometry--Titration--Wagner's +Chlorometric Method--Preparation of Standard Solutions--Apparatus for +Chlorine Valuation--Alkali in Excess in Decolourising Chlorides. Chapter +XV. Chlorine and Decolourising Chlorides--Synopsis--Chlorine--Chloride +of Lime--Hypochlorite of Soda--Brochoki's Chlorozone--Various +Decolourising Hypochlorites--Comparison of Chloride of Lime and +Hypochlorite of Soda. Chapter XVI. Water--Qualities of +Water--Hardness--Dervaux's Purifier--Testing the Purified +Water--Different Plant for Purification--Filters. Chapter XVII. +Bleaching of Yarn--Weight of Yarn--Lye +Boiling--Chemicking--Washing--Bleaching of Cotton Yarn. Chapter XVIII. +The Installation of a Bleach Works--Water Supply--Steam Boilers--Steam +Distribution Pipes--Engines--Keirs--Washing Machines--Stocks--Wash +Wheels--Chemicking and Souring Cisterns--Various--Buildings. Chapter +XIX. Addenda--Energy of Decolourising Chlorides and Bleaching by +Electricity and Ozone--Energy of Decolourising +Chlorides--Chlorides--Production of Chlorine and Hypochlorites by +Electrolysis--Lunge's Process for increasing the intensity of the +Bleaching Power of Chloride of Lime--Trilfer's Process for Removing the +Excess of Lime or Soda from Decolourising Chlorides--Bleaching by Ozone. + + * * * * * + +=THE SCIENCE OF COLOUR MIXING.= A Manual intended for the use of Dyers, +Calico Printers and Colour Chemists. By DAVID PATERSON, F.C.S. Forty-one +Illustrations, =Five Coloured Plates, and Four Plates showing Eleven +Dyed Specimens of Fabrics.= 132 pp. Demy 8vo. 1900. Price 7s. 6d.; India +and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Colour a Sensation; Colours of Illuminated Bodies; Colours +of Opaque and Transparent Bodies; Surface Colour.--II., Analysis of +Light; Spectrum; Homogeneous Colours; Ready Method of Obtaining a +Spectrum.--III., Examination of Solar Spectrum; The Spectroscope and Its +Construction; Colourists' Use of the Spectroscope.--IV., Colour by +Absorption; Solutions and Dyed Fabrics; Dichroic Coloured Fabrics in +Gaslight.--V., Colour Primaries of the Scientist _versus_ the Dyer and +Artist; Colour Mixing by Rotation and Lye Dyeing: Hue, Purity, +Brightness; Tints: Shades, Scales, Tones, Sad and Sombre Colours.--VI., +Colour Mixing: Pure and Impure Greens, Orange and Violets; Large Variety +of Shades from few Colours; Consideration of the Practical Primaries: +Red, Yellow and Blue.--VII., Secondary Colours; Nomenclature of Violet +and Purple Group; Tints and Shades of Violet; Changes in Artificial +Light.--VIII., Tertiary Shades; Broken Hues; Absorption Spectra of +Tertiary Shades.--Appendix: Four Plates with Dyed Specimens Illustrating +Text.--Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "The work has evidently been prepared with great care, and, as far + as we can judge, should be very useful to the dyer and + colourist."--_Halifax Courier._ + + "The volume, which is clearly and popularly written, should prove + of the utmost service to all who are concerned with the practical + use of colours, whether as dyers or painters."--_Scotsman._ + + "To the practical colourist, and also to technical students, Mr. + Paterson's new work will be very welcome. We are often asked to + recommend books on different subjects, and have no hesitation in + advising the purchase of the present volume by dyers and calico + printers, as containing a mass of most useful information at a + nominal price."--_Irish Textile Journal._ + + "Mr. Paterson's work not only clearly deals with the theory of + colour, but supplies lucid directions for the practical application + of the theory. His work will be found exceedingly helpful, not only + to the practical colourist, but also to students in our textile + colleges, by forming a useful complement to their class lectures. + There are several exquisitely coloured plates and a large number of + other illustrations of theory and practice in colour blending, and + also a series of plates with specimens of dyed fabrics attached, in + explication of the author's views."--_Wakefield Express._ + + "Mr. Paterson has little to say upon the experimental aspect or on + its aesthetics, but much upon the theory of colour, especially as it + bears upon the question--an all-important one to dyers, calico + printers and artists, who have to produce such a variety of shades + and tints--of the admixture of one colour upon another.... The + author is a dyer, and in his concluding chapters keeps well before + him the special wants and requirements of dyers. He writes + pleasantly and lucidly, and there is no difficulty in following + him, although here and there a lapse into ambiguousness occurs. The + book is well printed, generously supplied with coloured plates, + very nicely if not brightly got up; and the dyed patterns at the + end enhance the value of the book to the dyer."--_Textile Mercury._ + + "For some time the proprietors of _The Oil and Colourman's Journal_ + have been engaged in the publication of a series of practical + handbooks intended for the use of those interested in certain + branches of technology, and the present volume is the latest + addition to their list. The feature which the works have in + common--and it is an all-important one in treatises of this + sort--is their eminently practical character. The primary aim of + the publishers is to provide scientific text-books which will be + helpful to those who are either actively engaged in the practice of + the arts in question, or who are studying with that immediate end + in view.... Mr. Paterson speaks with that assured knowledge of an + expert, and in the present volume, as in that which he has already + contributed to the same series, he sets forth the true foundation + of the art of colouring in a manner at once comprehensive and + judicious.... For dyers, calico printers and colourists in general, + whose desire it is to work with accuracy in their respective + branches, the treatise will prove an invaluable guide-book, + provided the principles and methods it describes are studied with + intelligence and care. To this end, every encouragement has been + given that well-chosen examples, carefully executed plates and + diagrams, and an exhaustive index can supply."--_Glasgow Herald._ + + * * * * * + +=COLOUR MATCHING ON TEXTILES.= A Manual intended for the use of Students +of Colour Chemistry, Dyeing and Textile Printing. By DAVID PATERSON, +F.C.S. Coloured Frontispiece. Twenty-nine Illustrations and Fourteen +Specimens of Dyed Fabrics Illustrating Text. Demy 8vo. 132 pp. 1901. +Price 7s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; +strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Colour Vision and Structure of the Eye--Perception of +Colour--Primary and Complementary Colour Sensations.--II., Daylight for +Colour Matching--Selection of a Good Pure Light--Diffused Daylight, +Direct Sunlight, Blue Skylight, Variability of Daylight, etc., +etc.--III., Matching of Hues--Purity and Luminosity of Colours--Matching +Bright Hues --Aid of Tinted Films--Matching Difficulties Arising from +Contrast.--IV., Examination of Colours by Reflected and Transmitted +Lights--Effect of Lustre and Transparency of Fibres in Colour +Matching.--V., Matching of Colours on Velvet Pile--Optical Properties of +Dye-stuffs, Dichroism. Fluorescence.--VI., Use of Tinted Mediums--Orange +Film--Defects of the Eye--Yellowing of the Lens--Colour Blindness, +etc.--VII., Matching of Dyed Silk Trimmings and Linings and +Bindings--Its Difficulties--Behaviour of Shades in Artificial +Light--Colour Matching of Old Fabrics, etc.--VIII., Examination of Dyed +Colours under the Artificial Lights --Electric Arc, Magnesium and +Dufton, Gardner Lights, Welsbach, Acetylene, etc.--Testing Qualities of +an Illuminant.--IX., Influence of the Absorption Spectrum in Changes of +Hue under the Artificial Lights--Study of the Causes of Abnormal +Modifications of Hue, etc. + + * * * * * + +=Reissue of THE ART OF DYEING WOOL, SILK AND COTTON.= + +Translated from the French of M. HELLOT, M. MACQUER and M. LE PILEUR +D'APLIGNY. First Published in English in 1789. Six Plates. Demy 8vo. 446 +pp. 1901. Price 5s.; India and Colonies, 5s. 6d.; Other Countries, 6s.; +strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Part I., =The Art of Dyeing Wool and Woollen Cloth, Stuffs, Yarn, +Worsted, etc.:= Introduction.--Chapters I., Of the Vessels and +Utensils used in Dyeing.--II., Of the Fixed and Fugitive, commonly +called Great and Little Dye.--III., Of Colours in Grain. =Dyeing Wool:= +IV., Of Blue.--V., Of the Pastel Vat--Directions for the Proper +Management of the Vat--Indications when the Vat has Suffered by too much +or too little Lime, the two extremes which ought carefully to be +avoided--The Preparations of Indigo for the Pastel Vat.--VI., Of the +Woad Vat.--VII., Of the Indigo Vat.--VIII., Of the Cold Indigo Vat with +Urine--A Hot Indigo Vat with Urine--To Reheat a Urine Vat.--IX., A Cold +Indigo Vat without Urine. --X., Of the Method of Dyeing Blue.--XI., Of +Red.--XII., Of Scarlet in Grain, or Venetian Scarlet.--XIII., Of Fire +Scarlet.--XIV., Of Crimson.--XV., Of Gum Lac Scarlet.--XVI., Of the +_Coccus polonicus,_ a Colouring Insect.--XVII., Of Madder Red.--XVIII., +Of Yellow.--XIX., Of Brown or Fawn Colour.--XX., Of Black.--XXI., Of the +Colours obtained from a Mixture of Blue and Red.--XXII., Of the Mixture +of Blue and Yellow.--XXIII., Of the Mixture of Blue and Fawn +Colour.--XXIV., Of the Mixture of Blue and Black.--XXV., Of the Mixture +of Red and Yellow.--XXVI., Of the Mixture of Red and Fawn.--XXVII., Of +the Mixture of Red and Black.--XXVIII., Of the Mixture of Yellow and +Fawn Colours.--XXIX., Of the Mixture of Yellow and Black.--XXX., Of the +Mixture of Fawn Colour and Black.--XXXI., Of the Principal Mixtures of +the Primitive Colours by Three and Three.--XXXII., The Method of +Blending Wool of Different Colours for mixed Cloth or Stuffs.--XXXIII., +The Method of Preparing Felts for Trial.--XXXIV., The Method of Dyeing +Woollens False Colours.--XXXV., Of Flock or Goats' Hair.--XXXVI., Of +Archil, and the Method of Using It.--XXXVII., Of Logwood.--XXXVIII., Of +Brazil Wood.--XXXIX., Of Fustic--XL., Roucou.--XLI., Of French Berries. +--XLII., Of Turmeric.--XLIII., Instructions for the Proof Liquor for +Wool and Woollen Stuffs. + +Part II., =The Art of Dyeing Silk:= Ungumming and Boiling for +White.--For Boiling of Silks Intended to be Dyed.--Observations on +Ungumming and Boiling.--Of White.--Of Whitening.--Sulphuring. +--Observations on Whitening and Sulphuring.--Of Aluming.--Remarks on +Aluming.--Of Blue.--Remarks on the Blue of Indigo.--Of Yellow.--Remarks +on Yellow.--Aurora, Orange, Mordore, Gold Colour and Chamois.--Red and +Crimson.--Remarks on Crimson.--Of False Crimson or the Red of +Brazil.--Remarks on the Red, or Crimson of Brazil Wood.--Of Scarlet, +Orange, Red and Cherry Colour.--Preparation of the Carthamus or Bastard +Saffron.--Remarks on the Dye of Carthamus or Bastard Saffron.--Of the +False Poppy or Fire Colour Produced with Brazil Wood.--False Rose +Colour.--Of Green. --Remarks.--Of Olives.--Remarks.--Of Violet.--Of Fine +Violet, or Violet in Grain.--Of False or Common Violets or Lilac.--Of +the Violet of Logwood.--Remarks.--Violet of Logwood and +Verdigris.--Violets of Brazil and Logwood.--Remarks.--Violets from +Brazil Wood and Archil. --Of Purple, Gillyflower, and of Fine Cochineal +or Purple.--Of False Purple.--Of Maroons, Cinnamons and White +Lees.--Remarks.--Of Nut Greys. Thorn Greys, Black and Iron Greys and +others of the same Species.--Of Black.--Softening of Black.--Black in +the Raw.--Remarks on Black.--Particular Process Communicated by M. +Hellot.--Genoa Crimson, a Process Proved in May, 1743.--Violet Crimson +of Italy.--Half Violet.--Genoa Black for Velvets. + +Part III., =The Art of Dyeing Cotton and Linen Thread, together with the +Method of Stamping Silks, Cottons, etc.:= Of Dyeing in General.--Inquiry +concerning Wool, Silk, Cotton and Flax.--Of Wool.--Of Silk.--Of +Cotton.--Of Flax.--Conclusion from the Examination of Substances +Commonly Dyed.--Of Bleaching.--Preparation for Stuffs to be +Dyed.--Astringents.--Theory of Dyeing Stuffs Prepared with Alum.--Of +Colouring Substances.--Of Cochineal and Colouring Insects.--Of +Madder.--Of Vegetables Furnishing a Yellow Dye.--Of the Colouring Drugs +Used in Dyeing without Astringents.--Of Indigo.--Of Substances Used in +Dyeing Fawn and Root Colour.--Of Carthamus, Roucou, etc.--Of Black. =Of +Dyeing of Cotton Thread=: Of Cleansing.--Of the Colours Employed for the +Dyeing of Cotton Thread.--Of Blue.--Of Red.--Adrianople +Red.--Observations on this Dye.--Of Yellow.--Of Green.--Of Violet.--Of +Red Cinnamon.--Of Black.--Black for Linen and Cotton Thread by a +Combination of Colours.--Of Grey.--Of More Durable Greys.--Of Musk +Colour.--Olive and Duck Greens.--Of Browns, Maroons, Coffee Colours, +etc.--Of Silk Stuffs Dyed of Several Colours.--The Manner of Stamping +Silk, etc., in Europe.--Of a Linen with a Blue Ground and White +Pattern.--Of Saxon Blue.--Observations on this Dye.--=Indexes.= + + * * * * * + +=THE DYEING OF COTTON FABRICS=: A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and +Student. By FRANKLIN BEECH, Practical Colourist and Chemist. 272 pp. +Forty-four Illustrations of Bleaching and Dyeing Machinery. Demy 8vo. +1901. Price 7s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 8s.: Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; +strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Structure and Chemistry of the Cotton Fibre.--II., Scouring +and Bleaching of Cotton.--III., Dyeing Machinery and Dyeing +Manipulations.--IV., Principals and Practice of Cotton Dyeing--1, Direct +Dyeing; 2, Direct Dyeing followed by Fixation with Metallic Salts; 3, +Direct Dyeing followed by Fixation with Developers; 4, Direct Dyeing +followed by Fixation with Couplers; 5, Dyeing on Tannic Mordant; 6, +Dyeing on Metallic Mordant; 7, Production of Colour Direct upon Cotton +Fibres; 8, Dyeing Cotton by Impregnation with Dye-stuff Solution.--V., +Dyeing Union (Mixed Cotton and Wool) Fabrics.--VI., Dyeing Half Silk +(Cotton-Silk, Satin) Fabrics.--VII., Operations following +Dyeing--Washing, Soaping, Drying.--VIII., Testing of the Colour of Dyed +Fabrics.--IX., Experimental Dyeing and Comparative Dye Testing.--Index. + +The book contains numerous recipes for the production on Cotton Fabrics +of all kinds of a great range of colours, thus making it of great +service in the Dye-house, while to the Student it is of value in that the +scientific principles which underlie the operations of dyeing are +clearly laid down. + + * * * * * + +=COTTON SPINNING= (First Year). By THOMAS THORNLEY, Spinning Master, +Bolton Technical School. 160 pp. 84 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 1901. +Price 3s.; Abroad, 3s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Syllabus and Examination Papers of the City and Guilds of London +Institute.--Chapters I., Cultivation, Classification, Ginning, Baling +and Mixing of the Raw Cotton.--II., Bale-Breakers, Mixing Lattices and +Hopper Feeders--III., Opening and Scutching.--IV., Carding.--Index to +Illustrations.--General Index. + + * * * * * + +=COTTON SPINNING= (Intermediate, or Second Year). By THOMAS THORNLEY. +180 pp. 70 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 1901. Price 5s.; India and British +Colonies, 5s. 6d.; Other Countries, 6s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Syllabuses and Examination Papers of the City and Guilds of London +Institute.--Chapters I., The Combing Process.--II., The Drawing +Frame.--III., Bobbin and Fly Frames.--IV., Mule Spinning.--V., Ring +Spinning.--Index to Illustrations.--General Index. + + * * * * * + +=COTTON SPINNING= (Honours, or Third Year). By THOMAS THORNLEY. 216 pp. +74 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 1901. Price 5s.; India and British +Colonies, 5s. 6d.; Other Countries, 6s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Syllabuses and Examination Papers of the City and Guilds of London +Institute.--Chapters I., Cotton.--II., The Practical Manipulation of +Cotton Spinning Machinery.--III., Doubling and Winding.--IV., +Reeling.--V., Warping.--VI., Production and Costs.--VII., Main +Driving.--VIII., Arrangement of Machinery and Mill Planning.--IX., Waste +and Waste Spinning.--Index to Illustrations.--General Index. + + + * * * * * + + +=Books for Mining Engineers and Steam Users.= + + * * * * * + +=RECOVERY WORK AFTER PIT FIRES.= A Description of the Principal Methods +Pursued, especially in Fiery Mines, and of the Various Appliances +Employed, such as Respiratory and Rescue Apparatus, Dams, etc. By ROBERT +LAMPRECHT, Mining Engineer and Manager. Translated from the German. +Illustrated by Six large Plates, containing Seventy-six Illustrations. +175 pp., demy 8vo. 1901. Price 10s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 11s.; Other +Countries, 12s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Preface.--=I., Causes of Pit Fires:= 1, Fires Resulting from the +Spontaneous Ignition of Coal; 2, Fires Caused by Burning Timber; 3, +Fires Caused by Fire-damp Explosions.--=II., Preventive Regulations:= 1, +The Outbreak and Rapid Extension of a Shaft Fire can be most reliably +prevented by Employing little or no Combustible Material in the +Construction of the Shaft; 2, Precautions for Rapidly Localising an +Outbreak of Fire in the Shaft; 3, Precautions to be Adopted in case +those under 1 and 2 Fail or Prove Inefficient Precautions against +Spontaneous Ignition of Coal. Precautions for Preventing Explosions of +Fire-damp and Coal Dust. Employment of Electricity in Mining, +particularly in Fiery Pits. Experiments on the Ignition of Fire-damp +Mixtures and Clouds of Coal Dust by Electricity.--=III., Indications of +an Existing-or Incipient Fire.--IV., Appliances for Working in +Irrespirable Gases:= 1, Respiratory Apparatus; 2, Apparatus with Air +Supply Pipes, (_a_) The Bremen Smoke Helmet, (_b_) The Mueller Smoke +Helmet, (_c_) The Stolz Rescue Mask; 3, Reservoir Apparatus: 4, Oxygen +Apparatus. The Schwann Respiratory Apparatus. The Fleuss Respiratory +Apparatus. The Improved Walcher-Gaertner Pneumatophor, (_a_) The Single +Bottle Apparatus, Instructions for using the Pneumatophor, Taking to +Pieces and Resetting the Apparatus ready for Use; (_b_) Two Bottle +Apparatus (Shamrock Type). The Neupert Rescue Apparatus (The Mayer-Pilar +System).--=V. Extinguishing-Pit Fires:= (_a_)Chemical Means: (_b_) +Extinction with Water. Dragging down the Burning Masses and Packing with +Clay: (_c_) Insulating the Seat of the Fire by Dams. Dam Building. Dam +Work in the Fiery Pits of Southern Hungary: (_a_) Cross-dams of Clay; +(_b_) Masonry Dams, Gallery Linings. Wagner's Portable Safety Dam. +Analyses of Fire Gases. Isolating the Seat of a Fire with Dams: Working +in Irrespirable Gases ("Gas-diving"): 1, Air-Lock Work (Horizontal +Advance) on the Mayer System as Pursued at Karwin in 1894; 2, Air-Lock +Work (Horizontal Advance) by the Mauerhofer Modified System. Vertical +Advance. Mayer System. Complete Isolation of the Pit. Flooding a Burning +Section isolated by means of Dams. Wooden Dams: (_a_) Upright Balk Dams; +(_b_) Horizontal Balk Dams; (c) Wedge Dams, Masonry Dams. Examples of +Cylindrical and Dome-shaped Dams. Dam Doors: Flooding the Whole +Pit.--=VI., Rescue Stations:= (_a_) Stations above Ground; (_b_) +Underground Rescue Stations.--=VII., Spontaneous Ignition of Coal in +Bulk.=--Index. + +=Illustrations.= + +Sheet I., =Respiratory and Rescue Appliances--Precautions against Fire.= +Figs. 1, Smoke Helmet; 2, Muller's Smoke Helmet; 3, Low-pressure +Respiration Apparatus; 4, High-pressure Respiration Apparatus; 5, The +Stolz Mask for Rescue Work: 6, Precautions against Fire.--Sheet II., +=Respiratory and Rescue Apparatus.= Figs. 1, Recovery Work with Muller's +Smoke Helmet after a Fire: 2-8, The Fleuss Respiration Apparatus: 9, The +Walcher-Gaertner Pneumatophor: 10-12, Pneumatophor (Shamrock +Type).--Sheet III., =Respiratory and Rescue Apparatus--Stretchers.= +Figs. 1-8, Rescue Apparatus manufactured by O. Neupert's Successor +(Mayer-Pilar System); 1, Front View; 2, Section through Bag and Mask; 3, +Rear View: 4, Apparatus and Mask laid out Flat (view from above); 5, +Apparatus and Mask laid out Flat (view from below): 6, Locking Device +for Closing Bag; 7, Apparatus Complete, Mounted for Rescue Work; 8, +Improved Valve in the Respiration Tubes; 9-12, =Stretchers.= Fig. 9, +Stretcher Covered with Brown Canvas: 10, Stretcher Covered with Brown +Canvas, fitted with Adjustable Head-rest: 11, Folding Stretcher Covered +with Brown Canvas; 12, Rupprecht's Stretcher Covered with Brown Canvas; +13, Dr. Ruehlmann's Stretcher.--Sheet IV., =Dams.= Figs. 1-7, R. Wagners +Portable Safety Dam.--Sheet V., =Signalling Appliances --Dam +Construction--Cable Laying.= Figs. 1-3, Signalling Appliances: 1, Small +Induction Apparatus for Pit Work; 2, Bell Signal for Pit Work; 3, Pit +Telephone; 4-18, =Dam Construction;= 4, 5, Upright Timber Dam; 6, 7, +Timber Dam with Wooden Door; 8, 9, Dome-shaped Dams; 10,11, Dome-shaped +Dam with Iron Door; 12,13, The Wenker and Berninghaus Locking Device for +Dam Doors; 14-17, Dam Construction: 18, Damming a Gallery Lined with +Iron: 19, Support for Cable.--Sheet VI., =Working with Diving Gear in +Irrespirable Gases--Gallery Work.= Figs. 1-4, Air-Lock Work (Mayer +System); 5-7. Air-Lock (Mauerhofer's Modification of the Mayer System); +8-11, Construction of Dams at the Pluto Shaft.--Sheet VII., =Working +with Diving Gear in Irrespirable Gases (Mayer System)--Appliances in the +Shaft.= Figs. 1, 2, Sections of Shaft and Air Apparatus; 3, Salzmann +Reducing Valve for Reserve Air Supply; 4,5, L. v. Bremen's Respiration +Apparatus with Karwin Reserve Appliance: 6, Cross Section of the +Franziska Shaft; 7, Method of Supplying Air to Main Pipe and Winding +same on Drum; 8, Clamp. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "A work of this extremely valuable character deserves to be made + widely known amongst colliery managers and mining engineers at home + and abroad."--_Coal and Iron._ + + "This book is, in a manner, unique. The literature of mining + accidents is fairly extensive, but it consists largely of + departmental Blue Books."--_Sheffield Daily Telegraph._ + + "A concise and lucid description of the principal methods pursued, + especially in fiery mines, and of the various appliances employed, + such as respiratory and rescue apparatus, dams, etc."--_Staffs + Advertiser._ + + "The prevention of spontaneous combustion in collieries and the + extinction of underground fires are duties that fall heavily on many + colliery managers. They should, therefore, welcome this translation + of Mr. Lamprecht's German treatise."--_Ironmonger._ + + "The book under notice supplies the needed full description, + drawings, and mode of using these new appliances in actual fires, + and should be studied by every colliery manager, seeing that even + our best managed collieries have not been free from fires, more or + less disastrous to life and property.--_Colliery Manager._ + + * * * * * + +=THE PREVENTION OF SMOKE.= Combined with the Economical Combustion of +Fuel. By W.C. POPPLEWELL, M.Sc, A.M.Inst., C.E., Consulting Engineer. 46 +Illustrations. 190 pp. 1901. Demy 8vo. Price 7s. 6d.; India and +Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Introductory.--Chapters I., Fuel and Combustion.--II., Hand Firing in +Boiler Furnaces.--III., Stoking by Mechanical Means.--IV., Powdered +Fuel.--V., Gaseous Fuel.--VI., Efficiency and Smoke Tests of +Boilers.--VII., Some Standard Smoke Trials.--VIII., The Legal Aspect of +the Smoke Question.--IX., The Best Means to be adopted for the +Prevention of Smoke.--Index. + + * * * * * + +=GAS AND COAL DUST FIRING.= A Critical Review of the Various Appliances +Patented in Germany for this purpose since 1885. By ALBERT PUeTSCH. 130 +pp. Demy 8vo. 1901. Translated from the German. With 103 Illustrations. +Price 7s. 6d.; India and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; +strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Generators--Generators Employing Steam--Stirring and Feed Regulating +Appliances--Direct Generators--Burners--Regenerators and +Recuperators--Glass Smelting Furnaces--Metallurgical Furnaces--Pottery +Furnace--Coal Dust Firing.--Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "The work is worthy of perusal by all consumers of fuel. It is + exceedingly well printed and illustrated."--_Chemical Trade + Journal._ + + "The book will appeal with force to the manufacturer as well as to + the technical student, whilst it is also of far more than average + interest to the general reader."--_Halifax Guardian._ + + "The importance that gas and coal dust firing have attained of + recent years, and especially the great interest attaching of late to + the question of coal dust firing, makes the appearance of the + present volume most opportune."--_Iron and Coal Trades Review._ + + "The German author has long followed the development of various + systems of gas firing, and in the present treatise he discusses the + merits of appliances patented since 1885. His text and the numerous + illustrations indispensable to it will be found useful by all who + are engaged in practical work in the same field."--_North British + Daily Mail._ + + + * * * * * + + +=Books on Plumbing, Decorating, Metal Work, etc., etc.= + + * * * * * + +=EXTERNAL PLUMBING WORK.= A Treatise on Lead Work for Roofs. By JOHN W. +HART, R.P.C. 180 Illustrations. 270 pp. Demy 8vo. 1896. Price 7s. 6d.; +India and Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= + +Chapters I., Cast Sheet Lead.--II., Milled Sheet Lead.--III., Roof +Cesspools.--IV., Socket Pipes.--V., Drips.--VI., Gutters.--VII., Gutters +(continued).--VIII., Breaks.--IX., Circular Breaks.--X., Flats--XL, +Flats (continued).--XII., Rolls on Flats.--XIII., Roll Ends.--XIV., Roll +Intersections.--XV., Seam Rolls.--XVI., Seam Rolls (continued).--XVII., +Tack Fixings.--XVIII., Step Flashings.--XIX., Step Flashings +(continued).--XX., Secret Gutters.--XXI., Soakers.--XXII., Hip and +Valley Soakers.--XXIII., Dormer Windows.--XXIV., Dormer Windows +(continued).--XXV., Dormer Tops.--XXVI., Internal Dormers.--XXVII., +Skylights.--XXVIII., Hips and Ridging.--XXIX., Hips and Ridging +(continued).--XXX., Fixings for Hips and Ridging.--XXXI., Ornamental +Ridging.--XXXII., Ornamental Curb Rolls.--XXXIII., Curb Rolls.--XXXIV., +Cornices.--XXXV., Towers and Finials.--XXXVI., Towers and Finials +(continued).--XXXVII.,Towers and Finials (continued).--XXXVIII., +Domes.--XXXIX., Domes (continued).--XL., Ornamental Lead Work.--XLI., +Rain Water Heads.--XLII., Rain Water Heads (continued).--XLIII., Rain +Water Heads (continued). + +=Press Opinions.= + + "This is an eminently practical and well-illustrated volume on the + management of external lead work."--_Birmingham Daily Post._ + + "It is thoroughly practical, containing many valuable hints, and + cannot fail to be of great benefit to those who have not had large + experience."--_Sanitary Journal._ + + "Works on sanitary plumbing are by no means rare, but treatises + dealing with external plumbing work are sufficiently scarce to + ensure for Mr. Hart's new publication a hearty reception."--_The + Ironmonger._ + + "With Mr. Harts treatise in his hands the young plumber need not be + afraid of tackling outside work. He would do well to study its pages + at leisure, so that he may be ready for it when called + upon."--_Ironmongery._ + + * * * * * + +=HINTS TO PLUMBERS ON JOINT WIPING, PIPE BENDING AND LEAD BURNING.= +Third Edition, Revised and Corrected. By JOHN W. HART, R.P.C. 184 +Illustrations. 313 pp. Demy 8vo. 1901. Price 7s. 6d.; India and +Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= Introduction.--Chapters I., Pipe Bending.--II., Pipe Bending +(continued).--III., Pipe Bending (continued).--IV., Square Pipe +Bendings.--V., Half-circular Elbows.--VI., Curved Bends on Square +Pipe.--VII., Bossed Bends.--VIII., Curved Plinth Bends.--IX., Rain-water +Shoes on Square Pipe.--X., Curved and Angle Bends.--XL, Square Pipe +Fixings.--XII., Joint-wiping.--XIII., Substitutes for Wiped +Joints.--XIV., Preparing Wiped Joints.--XV., Joint Fixings.--XVI., +Plumbing Irons.--XVII., Joint Fixings.--XVIII., Use of "Touch" in +Soldering.--XIX., Underhand Joints.--XX., Blown and Copper Bit +Joints.--XXL, Branch Joints.--XXII., Branch Joints (continued).--XXIII., +Block Joints.--XXIV., Block Joints (continued).--XXV., Block +Fixings.--XXVI., Astragal Joints--Pipe Fixings.--XXVII., Large Branch +Joints.--XXVIII., Large Underhand Joints.--XXIX., Solders.--XXX., +Autogenous Soldering or Lead Burning.--Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "Rich in useful diagrams as well as in hints."--_Liverpool Mercury._ + + "The papers are eminently practical, and go much farther into the + mysteries they describe than the title 'Hints' properly + suggests."--_Scotsman._ + + "The articles are apparently written by a thoroughly practical man. + As a practical guide the book will doubtless be of much + service."--_Glasgow Herald._ + + "So far as the practical hints in this work are concerned, it will + be useful to apprentices and students in technical schools, as it + deals mainly with the most important or difficult branches of the + plumber's craft, _viz._, joint wiping, pipe bending and lead + burning.... 'Hints' are the most useful things to an apprentice, and + there are many in this work which are not to be found in some of the + text-books."--_English Mechanic._ + + 22 PRYME STREET, HULL, _24th November_, 1894. "Gentlemen,--Your + books to hand for which accept my best thanks, also for circulars. I + myself got one of J.W. Hart's books on Plumbing from your traveller, + and having looked through the same I can safely recommend it as + being the best book I have seen. Mr. J.W. Hart treats exhaustively + upon soldering and pipe bending, which are two of the most essential + branches in the plumbing trade." + + * * * * * + +=THE PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE OF DIPPING, BURNISHING, LACQUERING AND +BRONZING BRASS WARE.= By W. NORMAN BROWN. 35 pp. Crown 8vo. 1900. Price +2s.; Abroad, 2s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= Chapters I., Cleansing and Dipping; Boiling up and +Cleansing: Dipping.--II., Scratch-brushing and Burnishing; Polishing; +Burnishing.--III., Lacquering; Tools; Lacquers.--IV., Bronzing; Black +Bronzing; Florentine Red Bronzing; Green Bronzing.--Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "Mr. Brown is clearly a master of his craft, and has also the + immense advantage of being able to convey his instructions in a + manner at once clear and concise."--_Leicester Post._ + + "A thoroughly practical little treatise on the subject in all its + branches, and one which should be in the hands of every tradesman or + amateur who has lacquering to do."--_Irish Builder._ + + * * * * * + +=WORKSHOP WRINKLES= for Decorators, Painters, Paperhangers and Others. +By W.N. BROWN. Crown 8vo. 128 pp. 1901. Price 2s. 6d.; Abroad, 3s.; +strictly net. + +=Contents.= Parts I., Decorating.--II., Painting.--III., +Paper-hanging.--IV., Miscellaneous. Arranged in alphabetical order. + + * * * * * + +=HOUSE DECORATING AND PAINTING.= By W. NORMAN BROWN. Eighty-eight +Illustrations. 150 pp. Crown 8vo. 1900. Price 3s. 6d.; India and +Colonies, 4s.; Other Countries, 4s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= Chapters I., Tools and Appliances.--II., Colours and Their +Harmony.--III., Pigments and Media.--IV., Pigments and Media.--V., +Pigments and Media.--VI., Pigments and Media.--VII., Preparation of +Work, etc.--VIII., Application of Ordinary Colour.--IX., Graining.--X., +Graining.--XI., Graining.--XII., Gilding.--XIII., Writing and +Lettering.--XIV., Sign Painting.--XV., Internal Decoration.--Index. + +=Press Opinion.= "The author is evidently very thoroughly at home in +regard to the technical subjects he has set himself to elucidate, from +the mechanical rather than the artistic point of view, although the +matter of correctness of taste is by no means ignored. Mr. Brown's style +is directness itself, and there is no tyro in the painting trade, +however mentally ungifted, who could fail to carry away a clearer grasp +of the details of the subject after going over the +performance."--_Building Industries._ + + * * * * * + +=A HISTORY OF DECORATIVE ART.= By W. NORMAN BROWN. Thirty-nine +Illustrations. 96 pp. Crown 8vo. 1900. Price 2s. 6d.; Abroad, 3s.; +strictly net. + +=Contents.= Chapters I., Primitive and Prehistoric Art.--II., Egyptian +Art.--III., Assyrian Art.--IV., The Art of Asia Minor.--V., Etruscan +Art.--VI., Greek Art.--VII., Roman Art.--VIII., Byzantine Art.--IX., +Lombard or Romanesque Art.--X., Gothic Art.--XI., Renaissance +Art.--XII., The Victorian Period.--Index. + +=Press Opinion.= + + "In the course of a hundred pages with some forty illustrations Mr. + Brown gives a very interesting and comprehensive survey of the + progress and development of decorative art. It cannot, of course, be + pretended that in the limited space named the subject is treated + exhaustively and in full detail, but it is sufficiently complete to + satisfy any ordinary reader; indeed, for general purposes, it is, + perhaps, more acceptable than a more elaborate treatise."--_Midland + Counties Herald._ + + * * * * * + +=A HANDBOOK ON JAPANNING AND ENAMELLING FOR CYCLES, BEDSTEADS, TINWARE, +ETC.= By WILLIAM NORMAN BROWN. Price 2s. net. [_Ready._ + +=Contents.= A Few Words on Enamelling--Appliances and Apparatus--Japans +or Enamels--To Test Enamel for Lead--Japanning or Enamelling +Metals--Japanning Tin, such as Tea Trays, and similar Goods--Enamelling +Old Work--Enamel for Cast Iron--Enamel for Copper Cooking Utensils--The +Enamelling Stove--Enamelling Bedsteads, Frames and similar large +pieces--Paints and Varnishes for Metallic Surfaces--Varnishes for +Ironwork--Blacking for Iron--Processes for Tin +Plating--Galvanising--Metal Polishes--Colours for Polished Brass--A +Golden Varnish for Metal--Painting on Zinc--Carriage Varnish--Japanese +Varnish and its Application.--Index. + + * * * * * + +=THE PRINCIPLES OF HOT WATER SUPPLY.= By JOHN W. HART, R.P.C. With 129 +Illustrations. 1900. 177 pp., demy 8vo. Price 7s. 6d.; India and +Colonies, 8s.; Other Countries, 8s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= Chapters I., Water Circulation.--II., The Tank +System.--III., Pipes and Joints.--IV., The Cylinder System.--V., Boilers +for the Cylinder System.--VI., The Cylinder System.--VII., The Combined +Tank and Cylinder System.--VIII., Combined Independent and Kitchen +Boiler.--IX., Combined Cylinder and Tank System with Duplicate +Boilers.--X., Indirect Heating and Boiler Explosions.--XI., Pipe +Boilers.--XII., Safety Valves.--XIII., Safety Valves.--XIV., The +American System.--XV., Heating Water by Steam.--XVI., Steam Kettles and +Jets.--XVII., Heating Power of Steam.--XVIII., Covering for Hot Water +Pipes.--Index. + +=Press Opinion.= + + "If all plumbers were to read this book, and if they followed the + instructions given, there would, we are sure, be fewer accidents + from household boiler explosions, and many lives might be saved. No + doubt the majority of householders know or care little about the + subject, but any one who wishes to adopt the most up-to-date system + of supplying hot water throughout his house will be able to do so if + he reads Mr. Hart's book and follows the instruction given. It is a + work that all who have charge of domestic water supply should study. + It is a practical and profitable book."--_Wigar Observer._ + + + * * * * * + + +=Brewing and Botanical.= + + * * * * * + +=HOPS IN THEIR BOTANICAL, AGRICULTURAL AND TECHNICAL ASPECT, AND AS AN +ARTICLE OF COMMERCE.= By EMMANUEL GROSS, Professor at the Higher +Agricultural College, Tetschen-Liebwerd. Translated from the German. +Seventy-eight Illustrations. 1900. 340 pp. Demy 8vo. Price 12s. 6d.; +India and Colonies, 13s. 6d.; Other Countries, 15s.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= PART I., HISTORY OF THE HOP. PART II., THE HOP PLANT. +Introductory.--The Roots.--The Stem and Leaves.--Inflorescence and +Flower: Inflorescence and Flower of the Male Hop: Inflorescence and +Flower of the Female Hop.--The Fruit and its Glandular Structure: The +Fruit and Seed.--Propagation and Selection of the Hop.--Varieties of the +Hop: (_a_) Red Hops; (_b_) Green Hops; (_c_) Pale Green +Hops.--Classification according to the Period of Ripening: 1. Early +August Hops; 2. Medium Early Hops; 3. Late Hops.--Injuries to Growth: +Malformations; Diseases Produced by Conditions of Soil and Climate: 1. +Leaves Turning Yellow, 2. Summer or Sun-brand, 3. Cones Dropping Off, 4. +Honey Dew, 5. Damage from Wind, Hail and Rain; Vegetable Enemies of the +Hop: Animal Enemies of the Hop.--Beneficial Insects on Hops. + +=PART III., CULTIVATION.= The Requirements of the Hop in Respect of +Climate, Soil and Situation: Climate; Soil; Situation,--Selection of +Variety and Cuttings.--Planting a Hop Garden: Drainage; Preparing the +Ground; Marking-out for Planting; Planting; Cultivation and Cropping of +the Hop Garden in the First Year.--Work to be Performed Annually in the +Hop Garden: Working the Ground; Cutting; The Non-cutting System; The +Proper Performance of the Operation of Cutting: I. Method of Cutting: +Close Cutting, Ordinary Cutting, The Long Cut, The Topping Cut; II. +Proper Season for Cutting: Autumn Cutting, Spring Cutting: Manuring; +Training the Hop Plant: Poled Gardens, Frame Training; Principal Types +of Frames: Pruning, Cropping, Topping, and Leaf Stripping the Hop Plant; +Picking, Drying and Bagging.--Principal and Subsidiary Utilisation of +Hops and Hop Gardens.--Life of a Hop Garden; Subsequent Cropping.--Cost +of Production, Yield and Selling Prices. PART IV.--Preservation and +Storage.--Physical and Chemical Structure of the Hop Cone.--Judging the +Value of Hops. PART V.--Statistics of Production.--The Hop +Trade.--Index. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "The subject is dealt with fully in every little detail; + consequently, even the veriest tyro can take away some useful + information from its pages."--_Irish Farming World._ + + "Farmers are but little given to reading; but nowadays brewers have + to study their trade and keep abreast of its every aspect, and as + far as regards our trade, to them this book especially appeals, and + will be especially useful."--_Licensed Victuallers' Gazette._ + + "Like an oasis in the desert comes a volume upon the above subject, + by the Professor at the Higher Agricultural College, + Tetschen-Liebwerd, Germany, who has been fortunate enough to obtain + an excellent translator from the German in the person of Mr. Charles + Salter. The paucity of works upon the history and cultivation of + hops is surprising considering the scope it gives for an interesting + and useful work."--_Hereford Times._ + + "We can safely say that this book deals more comprehensively and + thoroughly with the subject of hops than any work previously + published in this country.... No one interested in the hop industry + can fail to extract a large amount of information from Professor + Gross's pages, which, although primarily intended for Continental + readers, yet bear very closely on what may be termed the + cosmopolitan aspects of the science of hop production."--_South + Eastern Gazette._ + + "This is, in our opinion, the most scholarly and exhaustive treatise + on the subject of hops, their culture and preservation, etc., that + has been published, and to the hop grower especially will its + information and recommendations prove valuable. Brewers, too, will + find the chapter devoted to 'Judging the Value of Hops' full of + useful hints, while the whole scope and tenor of the book bear + testimony to the studious and careful manner in which its contents + have been elaborated."--_Brewers' Journal._ + + "Considering the extent to which this country draws its hop supplies + from abroad, this translation of Professor Gross's volume will prove + an interesting and instructive addition to the library of any brewer + or brewers' chemist, the more so as the work of translation has been + admirably carried out in simple and vigorous English.... The volume + is one of a valuable series of special technical works for trades + and professions the publishers are issuing, and is the first so far + dealing with the brewing industry."--_Burton Mail._ + + "A work upon the above subject must be welcomed if for no other + reason than the dearth of books dealing with so interesting a theme, + but fortunately apart from this the book will afford excellent + reading to all interested in hops and their culture. Professor Gross + takes one over the whole field, by commencing with the earliest + history of the plant--so far back as the days of ancient Greece--and + from both practical, theoretical and scientific standpoints, deals + with the cultivation, classification and formation of the hop.... In + speaking of the production of new varieties sound information is + given, and should be of value to those who are always in search of + improvements."--_Hereford Journal._ + + "This work is, without doubt, the most thorough and extensive + compilation on hops ever yet offered to the public, and for this + reason should be warmly welcomed and appreciated by men interested + in the subject. Although primarily written for those engaged in the + industry abroad, and mainly Continental in theory and practice, it + nevertheless appeals to those connected with the hop growing and + brewing business in England, not only by way of a comparison, but + also as an instruction. The volume is at once practical and + scientific, is well got up, and teems with illustrations and + statistics. In a word, it is a book that should find its way into + the hands of all who are occupied in hop production and distribution + at home; and it also contains valuable information and suggestions + for the brewers themselves."--_Brewers' Guardian._ + + + * * * * * + + +=Public Libraries.= + + * * * * * + +=BRITISH LIBRARY YEAR BOOK, 1900-1901.= A Record of Library Progress and +Work. 54 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 345 pp. 1900. Edited by THOMAS +GREENWOOD. Price 3s.; abroad, 3s. 6d.; strictly net. + +=Contents.= Notes for Library Committees. Contributed Articles: The +Library Rate. Some Points in Library Planning--Mr. Burgoyne. Library +Classification--Mr. Jast. Developments in Library Cataloguing--Mr. +Quinn. Children and Public Libraries--Mr. Ballinger. Fire Prevention and +Insurance--Mr. Davis. The Educational Work of the Library +Association--Mr. Roberts. The Library Assistants' Association--Mr. +Chambers. British Municipal Libraries established under the various +Public Libraries or Special Acts, and those supported out of Municipal +Funds giving particulars of Establishment, Organisation, Staff, Methods +and Librarians. Table showing the Rate, Income, Work and Hours of the +Rate-supported Libraries. Statistical Abstracts. British non-Municipal +Libraries, Endowed, Collegiate, Proprietary and others, showing date of +Establishment, number of Volumes, Particulars of Administration, and +Librarians. Library Associations and Kindred Societies. + +=Press Opinions.= + + "This is a handbook which tells the reader everything about public + libraries, great and small, in the United Kingdom.... The book is + decidedly one of the best arranged volumes ever published, and there + is no doubt that the editor has been at great pains to obtain the + latest and most accurate information from all places. County, + district and parish councils, ministers of religion, and + schoolmasters everywhere should make themselves acquainted with its + contents. Its perusal cannot fail to serve the ends of the library + movement. The illustrations, of which there is a large number, are + very good."--_Western (Cardiff) Mail._ + + + * * * * * + + +_WORKS IN PREPARATION._ + + * * * * * + +=PRINCIPLES OF SIDEROLOGY= (The Science of Iron). Translated from the +German of HANKS FREIHERR v. ZUePTNER. + +=STAINED GLASS= (Ancient and Modern) and =FRET LEAD GLAZING.= By E.R. +SUFFLING. + +=TREATISE ON CLOTH FINISHING.= By ROBERT BEAUMONT, of Yorkshire College, +Leeds. + +=INDIA-RUBBER; GUTTA PERCHA.= + +=EVAPORATION, CONDENSATION AND COOLING.= Calculations of Dimensions of +Apparatus. By E. HAUSBRAND. Tables. For Chemists, Chemical and +Mechanical Engineers. + +=THE CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE FIBRES.= Spinning, Washing, +Bleaching, Dyeing, Printing and Finishing. By Dr. G. von GEORGIEVICS. + [_In the Press._ + +=WEAVING MACHINERY.= Three Vols. By HARRY NISBET. + +=COLOUR TERMS: THEIR PROPER USE AND MEANING.= By DAVID PATERSON. + +=LEAD AND ITS COMPOUNDS.= By THOS. LAMBERT. + +=COTTON COMBERS AND THE COMBING PROCESS.= By THOS. THORNLEY. + [_In the Press._ + +=TIMBER.= Its Physical and Chemical Properties, Description, +Distribution throughout the World, Forests, Preservation of Timber, and +Applications. From the French of Paul Charpentier. 179 Illustrations. +About 500 pp. + +=USE OF WATER IN THE INDUSTRIAL ARTS.= Composition--Influences--Residual +Water--Purification--Analysis. From the French of H. de la Coux. 135 +Illustrations. About 500 pp. + +=DYERS' MATERIALS:= An Introduction to the Examination, Evaluation and +Application of the Most Important Substances Used in Dyeing, Printing, +Bleaching and Finishing. By PAUL HEERMANN, Ph.D. Translated by ARTHUR C. +WRIGHT, M.A. (Oxon.), B.Sc. (Lond.). [_In the Press._ + + + * * * * * + + +=HANDY GUIDES TO THE CHOICE OF BOOKS.= + + * * * * * + +Vol. I. =PROSE FICTION.= + +Vol. II. =TECHNICAL, TRADE AND COMMERCIAL BOOKS.= + +_Others to follow._ [_In Preparation._ + + * * * * * + +_The Publishers will advise when any of the above books are ready to +firms sending their addresses._ + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics, by Franklin Beech + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DYEING OF COTTON FABRICS *** + +***** This file should be named 21224.txt or 21224.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/1/2/2/21224/ + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Labyrinths and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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