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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Canada and the Canadians, Vol. 2, by 
+Richard Henry Bonnycastle
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Canada and the Canadians, Vol. 2
+
+Author: Richard Henry Bonnycastle
+
+Release Date: April 30, 2007 [EBook #21260]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CANADA AND THE CANADIANS, VOL. 2 ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert Cicconetti, David T. Jones and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+(This file was produced from images generously made
+available by the Canadian Institute for Historical
+Microreproductions (www.canadiana.org))
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CANADA
+
+AND
+
+THE CANADIANS.
+
+BY
+
+SIR RICHARD HENRY BONNYCASTLE, KT.,
+
+LIEUTENANT-COLONEL ROYAL ENGINEERS AND MILITIA OF CANADA WEST.
+
+NEW EDITION.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+VOL. II.
+
+
+LONDON:
+HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,
+GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
+
+1849.
+
+
+Frederick Shoberl, Junior, Printer to His Royal Highness Prince Albert,
+51, Rupert Street, Haymarket, London.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+OF
+
+THE SECOND VOLUME.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Return to Toronto, after a flight to Lake Superior--Loons natural
+Diving Bells--Birds caught with hooks at the bottom of Niagara
+River--Ice-jam--Affecting story--Trust well placed--Fast Steamer--Trip
+to Hamilton--Kékéquawkonnaby, alias Peter Jones--John Bull and the
+Ojibbeways--Port Credit, Oakville, Bronte, Wellington
+Square--Burlington Bay and Canal--Hamilton--Ancaster--Immense
+expenditure on Public Works--Value of the Union of Canada with
+Britain, not likely to lead to a Repeal--Mackenzie's fate--Family
+Compact--Church and Kirk--Free Church and High Church--The Vital
+Principle--The University--President Polk, Oregon, and
+Canada                                                              Page 1
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+Ekfrid and Saxonisms--Greek _unde derivaturs_--The Grand
+River--Brantford--Plaster of Paris--Mohawks--Dutch
+forgetfulness--George the Third, a Republican King--Church of the
+Indians--The Five Nations--A good Samaritan denies a drop of
+water--Loafers--Keep your Temper, a story of the Army of
+Occupation--Tortoise in trouble--Burford                                51
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Woodstock--Brock District--Little England--Aristocratic Society in the
+Bush--How to settle in Canada as a Gentleman should do--Reader, did
+you ever Log?--Life in the Bush--The true Backwoods                     75
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+Beachville--Ingersoll--Dorchester--Plank road--Westminster
+Hall--London--The great Fire of London--Longwoods--Delaware--The
+Pious, glorious, and immortal Memory--Moncey--The German
+Flats--Tecumseh--Moravian settlement--Thamesville--The Mourning
+Dove--The War, the War--Might against Right--Cigar-smoking and all
+sorts of curiosity--Young Thames--The Albion--The loyal Western
+District--America as it now is                                          95
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+Intense Heat--Pigs, the Scavengers of Canada--Dutch Country--Moravian
+Indians--Young Father Thames--Ague, a cure for Consumption--Wild
+Horses--Immense Marsh                                                  125
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+Why Engineer-officers have little leisure for Book-making--Caution
+against iced water--Lake St. Clair in a Thunderstorm--A Steaming
+Dinner--Detroit river and town--Windsor--Sandwich--Yankee
+Driver--Amherstburgh--French Canadian Politeness--Courtesy not
+costly--Good effects of the practice of it illustrated--Naked
+Indians--Origin of the Indians derived from Asia--Piratical attempt
+and Monument at Amherstburgh--Canadians not disposed to turn
+Yankees--Present state of public opinion in those Provinces--Policy of
+the Government--Loyalty of the People                                  132
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+The Thames Steamer--Torrid Night--"The Lady that helped" and her
+Stays--Port Stanley--Buffalo City--Its Commercial
+Prosperity--Newspaper Advertisements--Hatred to England and
+encouragement of Desertion--General Crispianus--Lake Erie in a
+rage--Benjamin Lett--Auburn Penitentiary--Crime and Vice in the
+Canadas--Independence of Servants--Penitentiaries unfit for juvenile
+offenders--Inefficiency of the Police--Insolence of Cabmen--Carters
+--English rule of the road reversed--Return to Toronto                 168
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+Equipage for a Canadian Gentleman Farmer--Superiority of certain iron
+tools made in the United States to English--Prices of Farming
+Implements and Stock--Prices of Produce--Local and Municipal
+Administration--Courts of Law--Excursion to the River Trent--Bay of
+Quinte--Prince Edward's Island--Belleville--Political Parsons--A
+Democratic Bible needed--Arrogance of American politicians--Trent
+Port--Brighton--Murray Canal in embryo--Trent River--Percy and Percy
+Landing--Forest Road--A Neck-or-nothing Leap--Another perilous leap,
+and advice about leaping--Life in the Bush exemplified in the History
+of a Settler--Seymour West--Prices of Land near the Trent--System of
+Barter--Crow Bay--Wild Rice--Healy's
+Falls--Forsaken Dwellings                                              205
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+Prospects of the Emigrant in Canada--Caution against ardent spirits
+and excessive smoking--Militia of Canada--Population--The mass of the
+Canadians soundly British--Rapidly increasing Prosperity of the North
+American Colonies, compared with the United States--Kingston--Its
+Commercial Importance--Conclusion                                      260
+
+
+
+
+CANADA
+
+AND
+
+THE CANADIANS.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+  Return to Toronto, after a flight to Lake Superior--Loons natural
+  Diving Bells--Birds caught with hooks at the bottom of Niagara
+  River--Ice-jam--Affecting story--Trust well placed--Fast Steamer--Trip
+  to Hamilton--Kékéquawkonnaby, alias Peter Jones--John Bull and the
+  Ojibbeways--Port Credit, Oakville, Bronte, Wellington
+  Square--Burlington Bay and Canal--Hamilton--Ancaster--Immense
+  expenditure on Public Works--Value of the Union of Canada with
+  Britain, not likely to lead to a Repeal--Mackenzie's fate--Family
+  compact--Church and Kirk--Free Church and High Church--The vital
+  principle--The University--President Polk, Oregon, and Canada.
+
+
+After a ramble in this very desultory manner, which the reader has, no
+doubt, now become accustomed to, I returned to Toronto, having first
+observed that the harvest looked very ill on the Niagara frontier;
+that the peaches had entirely failed, and that the grass was destroyed
+by a long drought; that the Indian corn was sickly, and the potatoes
+very bad. Cherries alone seemed plentiful; the caterpillars had
+destroyed the apples--nay, to such an extent had these insects ravaged
+the whole province, that many fruit-trees had few or no leaves upon
+them. A remarkable frost on the 30th of May had also passed over all
+Upper Canada, and had so injured the woods and orchards, that, in
+July, the trees in exposed places, instead of being in full vigour,
+were crisped, brown, and blasted, and getting a renewal of foliage
+very slowly.
+
+My return to Toronto was caused by duty, as well as by a desire to
+visit as many of the districts as I possibly could, in order to
+observe the progress they had made since 1837, as well as to employ
+the mind actively, to prevent the reaction which threatened to assail
+it from the occurrence of a severe dispensation.
+
+I heard a very curious fact in natural history, whilst at Niagara, in
+company with a medical friend, who took much interest in such matters.
+
+I had often remarked, when in the habit of shooting, the very great
+length of time that the loon, or northern diver, (_colymbus
+glacialis_,) remained under water after being fired at, and fancied he
+must be a living diving-bell, endued with some peculiar functions
+which enabled him to obtain a supply of air at great depth; but I was
+not prepared for the circumstance that the fishermen actually catch
+them on the hooks of their deepest lines in the Niagara river, when
+fishing at the bottom for salmon-trout, &c. Such is, however, the
+fact.
+
+An affecting incident at Queenston, whilst we were waiting for the
+Transit to take us to Toronto, must be related. I have mentioned that,
+in the spring of 1845, an ice-jam, as it is called here, occurred,
+which suddenly raised the level of the Niagara between thirty and
+forty feet above its ordinary floods, and overset or beat down, by
+the grinding of mountain masses of ice, all the wharfs and buildings
+on the adjacent banks.
+
+The barrack of the Royal Canadian Rifles at Queenston was thus
+assailed in the darkest hours of the night, and the soldiers had
+barely time to escape, before the strong stone building they inhabited
+was crushed. The next to it, but on higher ground, more than thirty
+feet above the natural level of the river, was a neat wooden cottage,
+inhabited by a very aged man and his helpless imbecile wife, equally
+aged with himself. This man, formerly a soldier, was a cabinet-maker,
+and amused his declining years by forming very ingenious articles in
+his line of business; his house was a model of curious nick-nackeries,
+and thus he picked up just barely enough in the retrograding village
+to keep the wolf from the door; whilst the soldiers helped him out, by
+sparing from their messes occasionally a little nourishing food.
+
+That night, the dreadful darkness, the elemental warnings, the
+soul-sickening rush of the river, the groaning and grinding of the
+ice, piling itself, layer after layer, upon the banks of the river,
+assailed the old man with horrors, to which all his ancient campaigns
+had afforded no parallel.
+
+He heard the irresistible enemy, slowly, deliberately, and
+determinedly advancing to bury his house in its cold embrace. He
+hurried the unmindful sharer of his destiny from her bed, gathered the
+most precious of his household goods, and knew not how or where to
+fly. Loudly and oft the angry spirit of the water shrieked: Niagara
+was mounting the hill.
+
+The soldiers, perceiving his imminent peril, ventured down the bank,
+and shouted to him to fly to them. He moved not; they entreated him,
+and, knowing his great age and infirmity, and the utter imbecility of
+the poor old dame, insisted upon taking them out.
+
+But the man withstood them. He looked abroad, and the glimmering night
+showed him nothing but ruin around.
+
+"I put my trust in Him who never fails," said the veteran. "He will
+not suffer me to perish."
+
+The soldiers, awed by the wreck of nature, rushed forward, and took
+the ancient pair out by strength of arms; and, no sooner had they done
+so, than the waters, which had been so eager for their prey, reached
+the lower floor, and a large wooden building near them was toppled
+over by waves of solid ice. Much of the poor man's ingeniously-wrought
+furniture was injured; but, although the neighbouring buildings were
+crushed, cracked, rent, and turned over, the old man's habitation was
+spared, and he still dwells there, waiting in the sunshine for his
+appointed time, with the same faith as he displayed in the utter
+darkness of the storm.
+
+He had built his cottage on land belonging to the Crown; and, in
+consequence of an act recently passed, he, with many others who had
+thus taken possession, had been ordered to remove. But his affecting
+history had gained him friends, and he has now permission to dwell
+thereon, until he shall be summoned away by another and a higher
+authority, by that Power in whom he has his being, and in whom he put
+his trust.
+
+We landed once more at Toronto, at present "The City" of Upper Canada,
+on the 7th of July, and left it again on the 8th, in the fine and very
+fast steamer Eclipse for Hamilton, in the Gore district, at three
+o'clock, p.m. The day was fine; and thus we saw to advantage the whole
+shore of Ontario, from Toronto to Burlington.
+
+Our first stopping place was Port Credit, a place remarkable for the
+settlement near it of an Indian tribe, to which the half-bred Peter
+Jones, or Kékéquawkonnaby, as he is called, belongs.
+
+This man, or, rather, this somewhat remarkable person, and, I think,
+missionary teacher of the Wesleyan Methodists, attained a share of
+notoriety in England a few years ago, by marrying a young English
+woman of respectable connections, and passed with most people in
+wonder-loving London as a great Indian Chief, and a remarkable
+instance of the development of the Indian mind. He was, or rather is,
+for I believe he is living, a clever fellow, and had taken some pains
+with himself; but, like most of the Canadian lions in London, does not
+pass in his own country for any thing more than what he is known to be
+there, and that is, like the village he lives near, of credit enough.
+It answers certain purposes every now and then to send people to
+represent particular interests to England; and, in nearly all these
+cases, John Bull receives them with open arms, and, with his national
+gullibility, is often apt to overrate them.
+
+The O-jibbeway or Chippewa Indians, so lately in vogue, were a
+pleasant instance, and we could name other more important personages
+who have made dukes, and lords, and knights of the shire, esquires of
+the body, and simple citizens pay pretty dearly for having confided
+their consciences or their purse-strings to their keeping.
+
+Beware, dear brother John Bull, of those who announce their coming
+with flourishes of trumpet, and who, when they arrive on your warm
+hearths, fill every newspaper with your banquetings, addresses, and
+talks, not to honour _you_, but to tell the Canadian public what
+extraordinary mistakes they have made in not having so readily, as you
+have done, found out their superexcellencies.
+
+These are the men who sometimes, however, find a rotten rung in
+Fortune's ladder, and thus are suddenly hurled to the earth, but who,
+if they succeed and return safely, become the picked men of company,
+forget men's names, and, though you be called John, call you Peter.
+
+The mouth of the little river Credit is called Port Credit, the port
+being made by the parallel piers run out into deep water on cribs, or
+frames of timber filled with stones, the usual mode of forming piers
+in Canada West. It is a small place, with some trade, but the Indians
+complain sadly that the mills and encroachments of the Whites have
+destroyed their salmon-fishery, which was their chief resource. Where
+do the Whites come in contact with the Red without destroying their
+chief resource? Echo answers, Where?
+
+Sixteen miles farther on we touched at Oakville, or Sixteen Mile
+Creek, where again the parallel piers were brought into use, to form a
+harbour. Oakville is a very pretty little village, exhibiting much
+industry.
+
+Bronte, or Twelve Mile Creek, is the next village, very small indeed,
+with a pier, and then Port Milford, which is one mile from Wellington
+Square, a place of greater importance, with parallel piers, a
+steam-mill, and thriving settlement; near it is the residence of the
+celebrated Indian chief Brant, who so distinguished himself in the war
+of 1812. Here also is still living another chief, who bears the
+commission of major in the British army, and is still acknowledged as
+captain and leader of the Five Nations; his name is John Norton, or,
+more properly, Tey-on-in-ho, ka-ra-wen.
+
+That which I wished particularly, however, to see, was now close to
+us, the Canal into Burlington Bay.
+
+Burlington Bay is a little lake of itself, surrounded by high land in
+the richest portion of Canada, and completely enclosed by a bar of
+broad sand and alluvial matter, which runs across its entrance. In
+driving along this belt, you are much reminded of England: the oaks
+stand park-like wide asunder, and here, on tall blasted trees, you may
+frequently see the bald eagle sitting as if asleep, but really
+watching when he can rob the fish-hawk of the fruits of his piscatory
+toils.
+
+The bald eagle is a cunning, bold, bad bird, and does not inspire one
+with the respect which his European congeners, the golden or the brown
+eagle, do. He is the vulture of North America rather than the king of
+birds. Why did Franklin,[1] or whoever else did the deed, make him the
+national emblem of power? He is decidedly a _mauvais sujet_.
+
+[Footnote 1: I think, however, I have read that the philosophic
+printer gave him a very bad character.]
+
+The Canal of Burlington Bay is an arduous and very expensive
+undertaking. The opening from Lake Ontario was formerly liable to
+great changes and fluctuations, and the provincial work, originally
+undertaken to _fix_ the entrance more permanently, was soon found
+inadequate to the rapid commercial undertakings of the country.
+Accordingly, a very large sum was granted by the Parliament for
+rendering it stable and increasing the width, which is now 180 feet,
+between substantial parallel piers.
+
+There is a lighthouse at each end on the left side going in, but the
+work still requires a good deal of dredging, and the steamboat,
+although passing slowly and steadily, made a very great surge. In
+fact, it requires good steerage-way and a careful hand at the helm in
+rough weather.
+
+The contractors made a railroad for five miles to the mountain, to
+fetch the stone for filling-in the piers.
+
+The voyage across Burlington Bay is very pleasant and picturesque, the
+land being more broken, elevated, and diversified than in the lower
+portions of Canada West; and the Burlington Heights, so important a
+position in the war of 1812, show to great advantage. Here is one of
+the few attempts at castle-building in Canada called Dundurn Castle,
+the residence of Sir Allan Macnab. It is beautifully situated, and,
+although not perhaps very suitable to a new country, it is a great
+ornament to the vicinity of Hamilton, embowered as it is in the
+natural forest. Near it, however, is a vast swamp, in which is Coot's
+Paradise, so named, it is said, from a gentleman, who was fond of
+duck-shooting, or perhaps from the coot or water-hen being there in
+bliss.
+
+Hamilton is a thriving town, exhibiting the rapid progress which a
+good location, as the Americans call it, ensures. The other day it was
+in the forest, to-day it is advancing to a city. It has, however, one
+disadvantage, and that is the very great distance from its port, which
+puts both the traveller and the merchant to inconvenience, causing
+expense and delay. How they manage, of a dark night, on the wharf to
+thread the narrow passage lined with fuel-wood for the steamboat I
+cannot tell; but, in the open daylight of summer, I saw a vehicle
+overturned and sent into the mud below. There is barely room for the
+stage or omnibus; and thus you must wait your turn amidst all the
+jostling, swearing, and contention, of cads, runners, agents, drivers,
+and porters; a very pleasant situation for a female or an invalid, and
+expecting every moment to have the pole of some lumber-waggon driven
+through your body.
+
+Private interest here, as well as in so many other new places and
+projects in Canada, has evidently been at work, and a city a mile or
+two from its harbour, without sufficient reason, has been the result.
+But that will change, and the city will come to the port, for it is
+extending rapidly. The distance now is one mile and a quarter.
+
+After great delay and a sharp look-out for carpet-bags and leather
+trunks, we arrived at Young's Hotel, a very substantial stone
+building, on a large scale, where civility and comfort made up for
+delay. It was English.
+
+As it was night before we got settled, although a very fine night, and
+knowing that I should start before "Charles's Wain was over the new
+chimney," I sallied forth, with a very obliging guide, who acted as
+representative of the commissariat department, to examine the town.
+
+The streets are at present straggling, but, as in most Canadian new
+towns, laid out wide and at right angles. The main street is so wide
+that it would be quite impracticable to do as they do in Holland,
+namely, sit at the door and converse, not _sotto voce_, with your
+opposite neighbour. It is in fact more like a Mall than a street, and
+should be planted with a double row of trees, for it requires a
+telescope to discover the numbers and signs from one row of houses and
+shops to the other.
+
+Here the American custom of selling after dark by lamplight was
+everywhere visible, and everywhere new stone houses were building. I
+went into Peest's Hotel, now Weeks's, the American Tavern, and there
+saw indubitable signs that the men of yore had a pretty sprinkling of
+Yankees among them.
+
+Hamilton has 4500 inhabitants, and is a surprising place, which will
+reach 10,000 people before two or three years more pass. It has
+already broad plank-walks, but they are not kept in very good repair;
+in fact, it cannot escape the notice of a traveller from the Old World
+that there is too magnificent a spirit at work in the commencement of
+this place, and that utility is sacrificed to enlargement.
+
+Hamilton is beautifully situated on a sloping plane, at the foot of a
+wooded range of hills, called mountains, whence fine stone of very
+white colour in immense blocks is easily procured and brought; and it
+is very surprising that more of this stone has not been used in
+Toronto, instead of wood. Brick-clay is also plentiful, and excellent
+white and red bricks are made; but, such is the rage for building,
+that the largest portion of this embryo city is of combustible
+pine-wood.
+
+I left Hamilton in a light waggon on the 9th of July, at half-past
+five o'clock, a.m., having been detained for horses, and rolled
+along very much at my ease, compared to what the travelling on this
+route was seven years ago--I was going to say, on this road, but it
+would have been a misnomer, for there was nothing but a miry, muddy,
+track then: now, there is a fine, but too narrow, macadamized highway,
+turnpiked--that is to say, having real turnpike gates.
+
+The view from "the mountain" is exceedingly fine, almost as fine as
+that from Queenston heights, embracing a richly-cultivated fruit and
+grain country, a splendid succession of wooded heights, and a long,
+rolling, ridgy vista of forest, field, and fertility, ending in Lake
+Ontario, blue and beautiful.
+
+We arrived, at a quarter past seven, at Ancaster, a very pretty little
+village, with two churches, and composed principally of wooden houses.
+
+The Half-way House is then gained, being about half a mile from the
+end of the macadamized road, and thirteen and a half from Hamilton.
+Good bridges, culverts, and cutting, are seen on this section of the
+line to London. We got to Ancaster at half-past eight, or in about two
+hours and three quarters, and thence over the line of new road which
+was, what is called in America, graded, that is, ploughed, ditched,
+and levelled, preparatory to putting on the broken stone, and which
+graded road, in spring and autumn, must be very like the Slough of
+Despond.
+
+At eleven, we reached Maloney's Tavern--most of the taverns on the
+Canadian new roads are kept by Irish folks--four miles from Brentford.
+
+The Board of Works have been busily employed here, for a great portion
+of the road is across a swamp, which has been long known as _the_
+swamp. This is a pine-country, soil, hard clay or mud, and no stone;
+and the route is a very expensive one to form, requiring great
+bridging and straightening.
+
+I observe that the estimate for 1845, for Public Works on this road,
+in the Gore District, for finishing it, is as high as £10,000
+currency, and it is to be all planked, and that, to continue it to
+London, £36,182 15s. 8d. had been expended up to July, 1844.
+
+The immense expenditure, since 1839, upon internal improvements in
+Canada, in canals, harbours, lighthouses, roads, &c., is almost
+incredible, as the subjoined list will show:--
+
+
+REPORT OF THE BOARD OF WORKS,
+
+SHOWING THE MONEYS EXPENDED UPON EACH OF THE PUBLIC WORKS, FROM THE
+COMMENCEMENT OF THE WORK, UP TO THE 1ST JULY, 1844.
+
+
+Welland Canal                                 £238,995 14 10
+
+ST. LAWRENCE CANALS, VIZ.:
+
+Prescott to Dickenson's landing                 13,490 19  4
+Cornwall (to the time of opening the Canal
+  in June, 1843)                                57,110  4  2
+Cornwall (to repair breaks in the banks
+  since the above period)                        9,925 16  4
+Beauharnois                                    162,281 19  5
+Lachine                                         45,410 11  2
+Expenditure on dredge, outfit, &c., applicable
+  to the foregoing in common                     4,462 16  3
+Lake St. Peter                                  32,893 19  3
+Burlington Bay Canal                            18,539 11  2
+Hamilton and Dover Road                         30,044 16  5
+
+NEWCASTLE DISTRICT, VIZ.:
+
+Scugog Lock and Dam                              6,645  8  1
+Whitlas Lock and Dam                             6,101  7 11
+Crook's Lock and Dam                             7,849  9  6
+Heely's Falls                                    8,191  5  1
+Middle Falls                                       219  2  8
+Ranney's Falls                                     228  6  8
+Chisholm's Rapids                                7,599 14  0
+Harris's Rapids                                  1,591  9  6
+Removing sundry impediments in the River           185 17  0
+Port Hope and Rice Lake Road                     1,439 16  4
+Bobcaygean, Buckhorn, and Crook's Rapids            12  0  0
+Applicable to the foregoing works generally      6,674  1  2
+
+HARBOURS, AND LIGHTHOUSES, AND ROADS LEADING THERETO.
+
+Windsor Harbour                                 15,355 18  3
+Cobourg Harbour                                 10,381  6  3
+Port Dover                                       3,121 10  4
+Long Point Lighthouse and Light-ship             2,163  8  5
+Burwell Harbour and Road                           136 10  0
+Scugog Road                                      1,202  6  3
+Port Stanley                                    16,242 10 10
+Rondeau Harbour, Road and Lighthouse                60  4  2
+Port Stanley Road                               24,385 13  5
+Expenditure on outfit, &c. applicable to the
+  foregoing in common                            2,328 13  7
+River Ottawa                                    35,603 16  3
+Bay of Chaleurs Road                            15,726 16 11
+Gosford Road                                    10,801 10 10
+Main North Toronto Road                            686 19  4
+Bridges between Montreal and Quebec             20,860 19 11
+Cascades Road                                   13,287 19  6
+London and Sarnia Road                          19,837  5 11
+London and Brantford Road                       36,182 18  5
+London and Chatham, Sandwich and
+  Amherstburgh Road                             12,789  0  1
+River Richelieu                                     92  4  0
+                                              --------------
+
+Certified to be a true abstract of the accounts of the
+Board of Works.
+
+                                 Thomas A. Begly,
+                                      Sec. Board of Works.
+
+        Hamilton H. Killarly,
+                 President Board of Works.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The estimate for 1845 was 125,200, as may be seen by the following
+report of the Inspector General of Canada, as laid before
+Parliament:--
+
+
+PUBLIC WORKS.
+
+CANADA WEST.
+
+
+For present repairs to the Chatham Bridge                   £100
+
+For improving the Grand River Swamp Road--total
+10,000--required this year                                 9,000
+
+For improving Rouge Hill and Bridge, also another
+bridge and hill east of the former--total £6,500--
+required this year                                         5,000
+
+For Belleville Bridge                                      1,500
+
+For the completion of the Dover Road over the
+mountain, to the limits of the town of Hamilton, and
+erection of toll-gates                                     5,500
+
+For the improvement of the road from L'Original
+to Bytown, by Hattfield, Gifford, Buckworth, and
+Green's Creeks, as surveyed and estimated, together
+with the building of a bridge across the narrow
+channel, at the mouth of the Rideau, on the line of
+the road from Gattineau Ferry to Bytown--total
+cost, £5,930--required this year                           £3,000
+
+Owen's Sound Road, comprehending the line from
+Dundas by Guelph, to Owen's Sound direct (this
+sum being for the chopping, clearing, drawing, and
+forming of the portion not yet opened, and towards
+the lowering of hills, or otherwise improving such
+bad parts of the line between Nicolet and Dundas
+as most require it)                                         4,000
+
+For opening the road throughout from Lake Ontario,
+at Windsor Harbour, to Georgius Bay, on
+Lake Huron, this sum being for the opening of the
+road from the head of Scugog Road to the Narrow's
+bridge                                                      2,000
+
+For improving Queenston and Grimsby Road,
+for laying on the metal already delivered, and completing
+such parts left unfinished as are most advanced,
+and establishing gates                                      8,000
+
+(To finish the remainder of this communication
+within the Niagara district will cost £16,000, and
+that within the Gore district £10,000.)
+
+For improving the Trent navigation, towards the
+completion of the works now in progress £12,000--for
+this year                                                   6,000
+
+To cover expense of surveys, examination, preparation
+of estimates of the cost of improving the Main
+Province Road across the ravines of the Twelve and
+Sixteen Mile Creeks between Toronto and Hamilton;
+opening a road from the main road to Port Credit;
+opening and completing a road from the Ottawa at
+Bytown, to the St. Lawrence in the most direct line;
+of opening a road between Kingstown and the Lake
+des Allumettes on the Ottawa, with a branch towards
+the head of the Bay of Quinte; of opening a
+road from the Rideau, thence by Perth, Bellamy's
+Mills, Wabe Lake, to fall in with the road proposed
+from Bytown to Sydenham; of completing
+the Desjardin's Canal; of constructing the Murray
+Canal; of overcoming the impediments to the navigation
+of the river Trent, between Heely's Falls and
+the Bay of Quinte, and also for a survey of the
+road from Barrie to Lake Huron, through the
+townships of Sunindale and Nottawasaga                      2,000
+
+For improving the Amherstburgh and Sandwich
+road                                                        1,000
+
+For the Cornwall and L'Original road                          900
+                                                         --------
+                                                          £47,000
+
+WORKS OF A GENERAL CHARACTER, AS CONNECTED WITH
+THE COMMERCE OR REVENUE OF THE COUNTRY.
+
+To forming a dam across the branch of the Mississisqui,
+and forming a portage road at the Chats                     1,250
+
+For works upon the Ottawa and roads connected
+therewith, as detailed in the Report of the Board
+of Works of 3rd February, 1845, laid before the
+legislature--total £21,600--required this year              8,500
+
+For building a landing-wharf, with stairs and approaches
+at the Quarantine Station, Grosse Isle                      2,750
+
+For the extension of piers, and opening inner
+basin at Port Stanley harbour--total £6,000--required
+this year                                                   1,200
+
+For dredging at Cobourg harbour                               500
+
+For expenses of piers and dredging at Windsor
+harbour                                                     2,000
+
+For repairs and erection of Lighthouses--total
+£7,900--this year                                           5,000
+
+For the formation of a deep water-basin, at the
+entrance of the Lachine Canal, in the harbour of
+Montreal, to admit vessels from sea                        15,000
+
+For the erection of a Custom House at Toronto               2,500
+                                                          -------
+                                                          £39,700
+                                                         --------
+Total currency                                           £125,200
+                                                         --------
+
+
+                           W. B. Robinson,
+                               Inspector General.
+
+
+Thus, from the commencement of the operations of the Board of Works in
+the Canadas, or in about six years, there will have been no less an
+amount than a million and a half expended in opening the resources of
+that "noble province," as Lord Metcalfe styled it, in his valedictory
+address.
+
+This, with the enormous outlay of nearly two millions during the
+revolt, the cost of the Rideau Canal and fortifications, and the
+money spent by an army of from 8 to 10,000 men, has thrown capital
+into Canada which has caused it to assume a position which the most
+sanguine of its well-wishers could never have anticipated ten years
+ago.
+
+Its connection with England, therefore, instead of being a "baneful"
+one, as a misinformed partizan stated, has been truly a blessing to
+it, and proves also, beyond a doubt, that, now it is about to have an
+uninterrupted water-communication from the oceans of Europe, Asia, and
+Africa, to the fresh-water seas of Ontario, Erie, Huron, Michigan, and
+Superior, its resources will speedily develop themselves; and that its
+people are too wise to throw away the advantages they possess, of
+being an integral portion of the greatest empire the world ever had,
+for the very uncertain prospects of a union with their unsettled
+neighbours, although incessant underhand attempts to persuade them to
+join the Union are going on.
+
+Taxation in Canada is as yet a name, and a hardship seldom heard of
+and never felt. Perfect freedom of thought in all the various
+relations of life exists; there is no ecclesiastical domination; no
+tithes. The people know all this, and are not misled by the furious
+rhodomontades of party-spirit about rectories, inquisitorial powers,
+family compacts, and a universal desire for democratic fraternization;
+got up by persons who, with considerable talents, great perseverance
+and ingenuity, ring the changes upon all these subjects, in hopes that
+any alteration of the form of government will place them nearer the
+loaves and fishes, although I verily believe that many of the most
+untiring of them would valiantly fight in case of a war against the
+United States.
+
+A more remarkable example, I believe, has never been recorded in
+history than the fate of William Lyon Mackenzie, a man possessing an
+acuteness of mind, powers of reasoning, and great persuasiveness, with
+indefatigable research and industry, such as rarely fall to obscure
+and ill-educated men.
+
+Involving Canada in a civil war, which he basely fled before, as soon
+as he had lighted its horrid torch; as soon, in fact, as he had
+murdered an old officer, whose services had extended over the world,
+and who was just on the verge of what he hoped would be a peaceful
+termination of his toils in his country's cause; as soon as he had
+burned the houses of a widow who had never offended him, and of a
+worthy citizen, whose only crime in his eyes was his loyalty; and as
+soon as he had robbed the mail, and a poor maidservant travelling in
+it, of her wages. This man fled to the United States, was received
+with open arms, got a ragged army to invade Canada, then in profound
+peace with the citizens, who protected him.
+
+His failure at Navy Island is known too well to need repeating. He
+wandered from place to place, sometimes self-created President or
+Dictator of the Republic of Canada, sometimes a stump orator,
+sometimes in prison, sometimes a printer, sometimes an editor,
+abusing England, abusing Canada, abusing the United States; then a
+Custom-house officer in the service of that Republic; then again a
+robber, a plunderer of private letters, left by accident in his
+office, which he, without scruple, read, and without scruple, for
+political purposes, published.
+
+Reader, mark his end. It teaches so strong a lesson to tread in the
+right path that it shall be given in his own words, in a letter which
+he wrote, on the 11th of November last year, to the "New York Express"
+newspaper.
+
+He would be pitied, indeed, were it not that the widow and the orphan,
+the houseless and the maimed, cry aloud against the remorseless one.
+How many there are now living in Canada, whose lives have been
+rendered miserable, from their losses, or from injured health, during
+the watchings and wardings of 1837, 1838, 1839, during the long winter
+nights of such a climate, during the rains and damps of the spring and
+of the fall time of the year, and during the heats of an almost
+tropical summer. Heat, wet, and cold, in all their most terrible
+forms, were they exposed to. The young became prematurely old. The old
+died. Peace to their souls! _Requiescant in pace!_
+
+In the "New York Express" of the 11th November, we find a letter
+signed by Mr. Mackenzie, in which he endeavours to justify himself.
+What has particularly engaged our attention are the following
+paragraphs:--
+
+"If an angel from heaven had told me, eight years ago, that the time
+would come in which I would find myself an exile, in a foreign
+land--poor, and with few friends--calumniated, falsely accused, and
+the feelings of honest, faithful Republicans artfully excited against
+me--and that among the foremost of my traducers and slanderers would
+be found Edwin Croswell and the 'Argus,' Thomas Ritchie and his
+journal, Green and the 'Boston Post,' with the Pennsylvanian and other
+newspapers called Democratic; and that these presses and their editors
+would eagerly retail any and every untruth that could operate to my
+prejudice, but be dumb to any explanation I might offer, I could not
+have believed it. But if a pamphlet (like mine) had been then written,
+exhibiting, with unerring accuracy, the true characters of the
+combination of unprincipled political managers, among whom you have
+long acted a conspicuous part; if a Jesse Hoyt had come forward as
+state's evidence to swear to the truth of the pamphlet, while the
+parties implicated remained silent; and if you and your afflicted
+presses had, as you do now with the letters in my pamphlets, _defended
+the real criminals_, declared solemnly that you could see nothing
+wrong in what they had done, and directed the whole force of your
+widely circulated journal against the innocent person who had warned
+his countrymen against a most dangerous cabal of political hypocrites
+of the basest class--in other words, had I known you and your
+partnership as well in October, 1837, as I do, by dear-bought
+experience, in November, 1845, I would have hesitated very long
+indeed, before assuming any share whatever in that responsibility
+which _might have given you the Canadas_, as an additional theatre for
+the exhibition of those peculiar talents, by which this State and
+Union, and thousands in other lands, have so severely suffered. While
+reproving gambling and speculation in others, you and your brother
+wire-pullers have made the property, the manufactures, the commerce of
+America, your tributaries--even the bench of justice, with its awful
+solemnities and responsibilities, has been so prostituted by your
+friends that, when at sea and about to launch three of his
+fellow-creatures into eternity, a captain in the American navy
+hesitated not to avow that he had told one of them 'that for those who
+had money and friends in America there was no punishment for the worst
+of crimes.'--Nor did the court-martial before whom that avowal was
+freely made censure him.
+
+"Observe how Mr. and Mrs. Butler sneer at poor judges, corrupt judges,
+pauper judges, partial chancellors, and at the administration of
+American justice, though by their own party--and how their leader
+pities Marcy, throws him on the Supreme Court bench as a stopping
+place, to save him from ruin.--Look at the bankrupt returns of this
+district alone--one hundred and twenty millions of dollars in debt,
+very little paid or to be paid, many of the creditors beggared, many
+of the debtors astonishing the fashionable with their magnificent
+carriages and costly horses. No felony in you and your friends, who
+brought about the times of 1837-8. Oh, no! All the felony consists in
+exposing you. Two hundred years ago it was a felony to read the Bible
+in English. Truth will prevail yet.
+
+    "I confess my fears that, as I have now no press of my own, nor the
+    means to get one, and am persecuted, calumniated, harassed with
+    lawsuits, threatened with personal violence, saying nothing of the
+    steady vindictiveness of your artful colleague, nor of the judges
+    chosen by Mr. Van Buren and his friends, whom the 'Globe Democratic
+    Review' and 'Evening Post' denounced in 1840, and declared to be
+    independent of common justice and honesty, you may succeed in
+    embittering the cup of misery I have drunk almost to the dregs. The
+    Swedish Chancellor, Count Axel Oxenstiern, wrote to one of his
+    children, 'You do not know yet, my son, how little wisdom is
+    exhibited in ruling mankind.' I think that Mr. Butler cannot be a
+    pure politician, and yet the corrupt individual whose dishonesty I
+    have so clearly shown.--Perhaps the United States government may
+    justify him, and the laws punish me for exhibiting him in his true
+    colours. Be it so--I had for many years an overflow of popularity;
+    and if it is now to be my lot to be overwhelmed with obloquy,
+    hatred, and ceaseless slander, I am quite prepared for it, or even
+    for worse treatment. Being old, and not likely at any future time to
+    be a candidate for office, it is of very little consequence to
+    society what may become of me--but I have a lively satisfaction that
+    I was an humble instrument selected, at a fortunate moment, to
+    prove, by their own admission in 1845, every charge I had made
+    against you and your friends through the 'New York Examiner,' before
+    I left the service of the Mechanics' Institute here, in 1845.
+
+    "W. L. Mackenzie."
+
+The Upper Canadians should follow the example of the good people of
+Amherstburgh, and erect a monument in the capital of Upper Canada to
+the memory of those who died in consequence of the folly, the
+hardihood, and the presumption of this man.
+
+There may have been some excuse pleaded for the Canadian French.
+Misled by designing men, these excellent people of course fancied
+that, contrary to all possible reason and analogy, a population of
+about half a million was strong enough to combat with British
+dominion. Their language, laws, and religion, they were told, were in
+danger.
+
+But what excuse could the Upper Canadians have--men of British birth,
+or direct descent, who had grievances, to be sure, but which
+grievances resolved themselves into the narrow compass of the Family
+Compact and the thirty-seven Rectories? Quiet farmers, reposing in
+perfect security under the Ægis of Britain, were the mass of Upper
+Canadians.
+
+The "Family Compact" is still the war-cry of a party in Upper Canada;
+and one person of respectability has published a letter to Sir Allan
+Macnab, in which he states that, so long as the Chief Justice and the
+Bishop of Toronto continue to force Episcopalianism down the throats
+of the people, so long will Canada be in danger. This gentleman, an
+influential Scotch merchant of Toronto, in his letter dated Hamilton,
+C. West, 18th November, 1846, says, that the Family Compact, or Church
+of England tory faction, whose usurpations were the cause of the last
+rebellion, will be the cause of a future and more successful one, "if
+they are not checked;" and, while he fears rebellion, he dreads that,
+in case of a war, his countrymen, "the Scotch, could not, on their
+principles, defend the British government, which suffers their
+degradation in the colony."
+
+This plainly shows to what an extent party spirit is carried in
+Canada, when it suffers a man of respectability and loyalty coolly to
+look rebellion in the face as an alternative between his own church
+and another.
+
+A Church of England man, totally unconnected with colonial interests
+and with colonial parties, is a better judge of these matters than a
+Church of Scotland man, or a Free Church man, who believes, with his
+eyes shut, that Calvinism is to be thrust bodily out of the land by
+the influence of Dr. Strachan or Chief Justice Robinson.
+
+It is obvious to common sense that any attempt on the part of the
+clergy or the laity of Upper Canada to crush the free exercise of
+religious belief, would be met not only with difficulties absolutely
+insurmountable, but by the withdrawal of all support from the home
+government; for, as the Queen of England is alike queen of the
+Presbyterian and of the Churchman, and is forbidden by the
+constitution to exercise power over the consciences of her subjects
+throughout her vast dominions; so it would be absurd to suppose for a
+moment that the limited influence in a small portion of Canada of a
+chief justice or a bishop, even supposing them mad or foolish enough
+to urge it, could plunge their country into a war for the purposes of
+rendering one creed dominant.
+
+The Church of England is, moreover, not by any means the strongest, in
+a physical sense, in Upper Canada, neither is the Church of Scotland;
+nor is it likely, as the writer quoted observes, that it would be at
+length necessary to sweep the former off the face of the country, in
+order to secure freedom for the latter.
+
+The Kirk itself is wofully divided, in Canada, by the late wide-spread
+dissent, under the somewhat novel designation of the Free Church. One
+need but visit any large town or village to observe this; for it would
+seem usually that the Free Church minister has a larger congregation
+than the regularly-called minister of the ancient faith of Caledonia.
+Now, the members of the Free Church have no such holy horror of Dr.
+Strachan, Chief Justice Robinson, or Sir Allan Macnab, as that
+exhibited in the above-mentioned letter; nor is it believed that the
+Church of England would presume to denounce and wage internecional war
+against their popular institution. But a person who has lived a great
+part of his life in Canada will take all this _cum grano salis_.
+
+The Scotch in Upper Canada are not and will not be disloyal. On the
+contrary, if I held a militia command again, I should be very glad, as
+an Englishman, that it should consist of a very fair proportion of
+Highlanders and of Lowlanders.
+
+The British public must not be misled by the hard-sounding language
+and the vast expenditure of words it may have to receive, in the
+perusal of either the High Church, or the Presbyterian fulminators in
+Canada West.
+
+The whole hinges on what the writer calls "the vital question,"
+namely, upon the university of Canada at Toronto being a free or a
+close borough.
+
+The High Church party contend that this institution was formed for the
+Church of England only, and endowed with an immense resource in lands
+accordingly.
+
+The Church of Scotland, "as by law established," for I do not include
+the Free Church, has strenuously opposed this for a long series of
+years, and contends that it has equal rights and equal privileges in
+the institution.[1]
+
+It would consume too much space to enter into argument upon argument
+anent a question which, ever since the rebellion, has grown from the
+seeds so profusely scattered in the grounds of dispute on both sides.
+
+The home government, foreseeing clearly that this vexed question is
+one of paramount importance, has declared itself not neuter, but
+passive; has given at large its opinion, favourable to general
+education, conducted upon the most liberal acceptance of the charter;
+and has left it to the wisdom of the Canadian Parliament to decide.
+
+[Footnote 1: A large public meeting of Roman Catholics upon the
+subject of the University question took place lately at Toronto, where
+a temperate spirit prevailed.]
+
+An eminent lawyer was employed to carry out Lord Metcalfe's
+conciliatory views, in accordance with the spirit of the instructions
+from the queen. This gentleman, who had previously been accused by the
+reform party of belonging to the Family Compact before he accepted
+high legal office under the colonial government, had been employed
+also on the part of the Church of England as counsel before the bar of
+the House, to advocate its claims, and in a singularly clever and
+lucid speech, of immense length, certainly made the cause a most
+excellent one. But
+
+                    "how chances mock,
+  And changes fill the cup of alteration!"
+
+He was lauded to the skies, and deemed to have achieved the great end
+sought by the High Church party.
+
+Mark the reverse:
+
+They forgot wholly that, in his capacity of barrister, he did, as
+every barrister is bound to do, his very best for his employers, and
+no doubt conscientiously desiring that the rights of the Church of
+England should be upheld; but no sooner was he employed as a minister
+of the Crown to pacify the discontent which the Presbyterians, the
+Methodists, and the Roman Catholics had expressed very openly, and no
+sooner did he, by an equal exertion of his intellect, point put the
+most feasible method of solving the difficulty, than a storm of abuse
+most lavishly bespattered him, and he was called a seceder from the
+High Church principles, an abandoner of the High Canadian Tory ranks,
+or anything else the reader may fancy. Now, those who know this
+gentleman best are of opinion that he never was a very violent
+partizan either in politics or in religious matters, and that to his
+moderation much of the good that has unquestionably resulted from Lord
+Metcalfe's government may be ascribed.
+
+The chief justice and the bishop, against whom the tirade of the
+revolutionary press is constantly aimed, may both have once, by their
+position in the Upper House, had much to do with political matters,
+but that either of them has ever had in view so absurd a notion as
+that of governing Canada by their local influence, and of thus
+overawing the Crown, is too ridiculous to be believed.
+
+The chief justices and the bishops, in all our colonial possessions,
+are now most wisely debarred from exercising political sway in the
+legislative council, over which, some years ago, they no doubt
+possessed very great influence in many of the colonies.
+
+In Canada, where one half and even more of the population is Roman
+Catholic, it cannot be believed that a Protestant bishop, or a
+Protestant head of the civil law, can exercise any other powers than
+those which their offices permit them to do; and by the British
+constitution it is very clear that any attempts to subvert the
+established order of things on their parts would inevitably lead to
+deprivation and impeachment.
+
+If, therefore, they were really guilty of an endeavour to rule by
+their family connections, is it probable that 600,000 Roman Catholics,
+and a vastly preponderating mass of Presbyterians, Methodists,
+Unitarians, and the endless roll of Canadian dissenters from the
+Church, would permit it?
+
+That the bishop and the chief justice possess a considerable share of
+personal influence in Upper Canada, there can be no question whatever;
+but, after the statement of the former, in his annual visitation
+published in 1841, that out of a population of half a million there
+were only ninety-five clergymen and missionaries, where there should
+be six hundred and thirty-six, if the country was fully settled, it is
+a fanciful picture that the reformers have drawn of their power and
+resources--power which is really derived only from intermarriages
+among the few remnants of the earliest loyalist settlers, or from
+admiration of their private conduct and abilities. In short, "the
+family compact" is a useful bugbear; it is kept up constantly before
+the Canadians, to deter them from looking too closely into other
+compacts, which, to say the truth, are sometimes neither so national,
+so loyal, nor so easily explained.
+
+Canada is, at this juncture, without question, the most free and the
+happiest country in the whole world; not that it resembles Utopia, or
+the happy valley of Rasselas, but because it has no grievances that
+may not be remedied by its own parliament--because it has no
+taxation--because its government is busied in developing its splendid
+internal resources--and because the Mother Country expends annually
+enormous sums within its boundaries or in protecting its commerce.
+
+Why does England desire that the banner of the Three Crosses shall
+float on the citadels of Quebec and Kingston? why does she desire to
+see that flag pre-eminent on the waters of Lake Superior or in the
+ports of Oregon? Is it because Canada is better governed as an
+appanage of the Crown of Victoria than it possibly could be by Mr.
+Polk? Is it from a mere desire for territory that the mistress of the
+seas throws her broad shield over the northern portion of North
+America? or is it because the treasury of England has millions of bars
+of gold and of silver, deposited in its vaults by the subjects of
+Canada?
+
+No, it is from none of these motives: Canada is a burthen rather than
+a mine of wealth to England, which has flourished a thousand-fold
+more since Washington was the first president, than she ever did with
+the thirteen colonies of the West.
+
+Is it because the St. Lawrence trade affords a nursery for her seamen,
+or that Newfoundland is the naval school? No; about three or four
+British vessels now fish on the grand banks, where hundreds once cast
+anchor. The fisheries are boat-fisheries on the shores instead of at
+sea, and the timber trade would engage British shipping and British
+sailors just as largely if Quebec had the beaver emblazoned on the
+flag of its fortress as if the flag of a thousand years floated over
+its walls.
+
+The resources of England are inconceivable; if one source dries up,
+another opens. China is replacing Africa.
+
+The London Economist estimates the increase of capital in England from
+1834, or just before the troubles in Canada, which cost her two
+millions sterling, to 1844, in ten years only, at the rate of
+forty-five millions sterling annually--four-hundred and fifty
+millions, in ten years, in personal property only! What was the
+increase in real estate during those ten years? and what empire, or
+what combination of empires, can show such wealth?
+
+Thus, while Canada has been a drag-chain upon the chariot-wheel of
+British accumulation, did the prosperity of the empire suffer, or is
+it likely to suffer, by war with the United States, or by separation
+from England?
+
+The interests of the United States and the interests of England would
+no doubt mutually suffer, but the former power, if it annexed Canada,
+would most severely feel the result. England would then close the
+ports of the St. Lawrence, as well as those of the seaboard from
+Quebec to Galveston; nor would the Nova Scotian and New Brunswick
+provinces be conquered until after a bloody and most costly struggle;
+for they, being essentially maritime, would the less readily abandon
+the connexion with that power which must for ages yet to come be
+preponderant at sea. The Ocean is the real English colony. By similar
+natural laws, the United States has other advantages and other matters
+to control in its vast interior.
+
+I forget what writer it is who says--perhaps it was Burke--that any
+nation which can bring 50,000 men in arms into the field, whatever may
+be its local disadvantages of position, can never be conquered, if its
+sons are warlike and courageous.
+
+Canada can bring double that number with ease; and whilst its
+interests are as inseparable from those of England as they now are, it
+is not to be supposed that a Texian annexation will dissolve the bond.
+
+We have been greatly amused in Canada during the winter of 1845, after
+Mr. Polk's "all Oregon or none of it," to find in the neighbouring
+republic a force of brave militia-men or volunteers turn out for a
+field day with CANADA and OREGON painted on their
+cartouche-boxes.--Mr. Polk did not go quite so far, it is true; but a
+great mass of the people in the United States prophesy that, if war
+lasts, all the North American Continent, from the Polar seas to the
+Isthmus of Darien, will have the tricoloured stripes and the galaxy of
+stars for its national flag.
+
+This is all-natural enough; no one blames the people of the republic
+for desiring extended fame and empire; but is it to be extended by the
+Cæsaric mode, _Veni, vidi, vici_, or by deluging two-thirds of that
+continent with the blood of man?
+
+A calm view of antecedent human affairs tells us another tale.
+
+A black population in the south and in the vast Island of Hayti, in
+Jamaica and in the West Indies; a brave and enterprising mixed race in
+Cuba; the remorseless Indian of the West, whose tribes are countless
+and driven to desperation; the multitudinous Irish, equally ready for
+fighting as for vengeance for their insulted church; the Anglo-Saxon
+blood on the northern borders, combined with the Norman Catholics of
+the St. Lawrence; innumerable steam-vessels pouring from every part
+of Europe and of Asia--are these nothing in the scale? Are the
+feelings of the wealthy, the intelligent, and the peaceful in the
+United States not to be taken into account?
+
+Is the total annihilation for a long period of all external commerce
+nothing? Are blazing cities, beleaguered harbours, internal
+discontent, servile war, nothing in the scale of aggrandizement? Is
+the great possibility of the European powers interfering as nothing?
+Will not Russia, aware now of the value of her North American
+possessions, look with a jealous eye upon the Bald Eagle's attempt at
+a too close investigation of her eaglets' nest in the north? Would not
+France, just beginning to colonize largely, like a share in the
+spoils?
+
+To avoid all this, is the reason that England clings to Canada, that
+Canada _must not_ be sold or given away. Canada is in short the
+important State which holds the balance of power on the North American
+Continent; and, when her Eagle is strong enough to fly alone, it will
+not be either from having false wings, or without the previous
+nursing and tender care of her European mother, who will launch her
+safely from the pinnacle of glory into the clear sky of powers and
+principalities.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+  Ekfrid and Saxonisms--Greek _unde derivaturs_--The Grand
+  River--Brantford--Plaster of Paris--Mohawks--Dutch
+  forgetfulness--George the Third, a Republican King--Church of the
+  Indians--The Five Nations--A good Samaritan denies a drop of
+  water--Loafers--Keep your Temper, a story of the Army of
+  Occupation--Tortoise in trouble--Burford.
+
+
+But to resume the journey. We passed the Ekfrid Hotel. Saxon names
+creep steadily over Canada, whilst barbarous adaptations of Greek and
+Latin find favour in the United States. A little learning is a
+dangerous thing. Cicero and Pompey never dreamed or desired that a
+white and green wooden village in a wilderness, where patent pails and
+patent ploughs are the staple, should be dignified thus; but, as the
+French say, _chacun à son goût_.
+
+The first good view of the Grand River was attained three miles from
+Brantford, and, although the name is rather too sounding, the Grand
+River is a very fine stream. It put me singularly in mind, with its
+oak-forested banks, its tall poplars, and its meandering clear waters,
+of the Thames about Marlow, where I remember, when I was a boy at the
+Military College, seeing the fish at the bottom on a fine day, so
+plain that I longed to put a little salt on their tails.
+
+You look down near the Union Inn, Carr's, on a most beautiful woodland
+view, undulating, rich, and varied. This part of the country is a
+sandy soil, and is called the Oak Plains. Here once flourished the
+Indian. His wars, his glory, his people--where are they? Gone! The
+Saxon and the Celt have swept off the race, and their memory is as a
+cloud in a summer's sky, beautiful but dissolving.
+
+Brantford is a very long village, with four churches or chapels, one
+of them a handsome building, and with fine prospects of the country,
+through which runs the Grand River. The houses are mostly of wood, a
+few of brick, with some good shops, or stores, as they are universally
+called in America and Canada, where every thing, from a pin to a
+six-point blanket, may be obtained for dollars, country produce, or
+_approved_ bills of exchange--chiefly however by barter, that true
+universal medium in a new country, as may be gleaned from any Canadian
+newspaper about Christmas time, when the subscribers are usually
+reminded that wood for warming the printer will be very acceptable.
+
+Plank side-walks, a new feature in Canadian towns, are rapidly
+extending in Brantford, which is just starting into importance; as the
+government, though it is so far inland, intend to make a port of it,
+by thoroughly opening the navigation of the Grand River from its mouth
+in Lake Erie. The works are near completion, and a steamboat, the
+Brantford, plies regularly in summer. Thus an immense country,
+probably the finest wheat-land in the world, will be opened to
+commerce, and the great plaster of Paris quarries of the river find a
+market, for increasing the fertility of the poorer lands of the lower
+part of the province.
+
+Brantford is named after Brant, the celebrated Indian warrior chief,
+and here the Mohawk tribe of the Five Nations have their principal
+seat. This excellent race, for their adhesion to British principles in
+the war of the Revolution, lost their territory in the United States,
+consisting of an immense tract in the fair and fertile valley of the
+Mohawk river, in the State of New York, through which the Erie Canal
+and railroad now run, and possessed by a flourishing race of farmers.
+
+I remember being told a curious story of the Dutch, who have their
+homesteads on the Mohawk Flats, the richest pasture land in New York.
+These simple colonists, preserving their ancient habits, pipes,
+breeches, and phlegm, looked with astonishment at the progress of
+their Yankee neighbours, and predicted that so much haste and action
+would soon expend itself. At last came surveyors and engineers, those
+odious disturbers of antiquity and quiet rural enjoyments: they
+pointed their spirit-levels, they stretched their chains across the
+fair fields of the quiet slumbering valley of these smoking Dutchmen.
+The very cows looked bewildered, and Mynheer, taking his meerschaum
+from his lips, sighed deeply.
+
+They told him that a railroad was projected across his acres; he would
+not have minded a canal. He had survived the wars of the Indians; he
+had forgotten Sir William Johnson and his neighbouring castle; he had
+gone through the rebellion of Washington without being despoiled; and
+had finally, as he thought, settled down in the lovely valley of the
+meandering Mohawk, in a flat very like what his ancestors represented
+to him as the pictured reality of Sluys or Scheldtland. He had smoked
+and dozed through all this excitement, and was just beginning to
+understand English. The American character was above his
+comprehension. He remembered George the Third with respect, because
+his great grandfather was a Dutchman, who had ascended the British
+throne, and had proclaimed Protestantism and _Orange boven_ as the law
+of the colonies. He still thought George the Third his ruler; and
+never knew that George Washington had, Cromwell-like, ousted the
+monarch from his fair patrimony, on pretence that tea was not taxable
+trans-atlantically.
+
+The railroad came: Acts of Congress or of Assembly passed; and fire
+and iron rushed through the happy valley. The patriarchs lifted up
+their hands and their pipes in utter dismay.
+
+"Ten thousand duyvels!" exclaimed one old Van Winkle; "vat is dis?--it
+is too ped! King Jorje is forget himsel. I should not vonder we shall
+hab a rebublic next."
+
+"I dink ve shall," was the universal response from amidst a dense
+cloud of tobacco vapour.
+
+The Mohawks, or Kan-ye-a-ke-ha-ka, as they style themselves, are now
+only a dispersed remnant of a once powerful tribe of the Five Nations.
+They received several grants of land in Canada for their loyalty, and
+among others, 160,000 acres of the best part of the province in which
+we are now travelling, but it is probable that their numbers
+altogether do not now exceed 3000. Two thousand two hundred dwell near
+the Grand River, and a large body near Kingston. The Kingston branch
+are chiefly Church of England men, and an affecting memorial of their
+adhesion to Britain exists in the altar-cloth and communion-plate
+which they brought from the valley of the Mohawk, where it had been
+given to them in the days of Queen Anne.
+
+A church has recently been erected by them on the banks of the Bay of
+Quinte, in the township of Tyendinaga, or the Indian woods. It is of
+stone, with a handsome tin-covered spire, and replaces the original
+wooden edifice they had erected on their first landing, the first
+altar of their pilgrimage, which was in complete decay.
+
+They held a council, and the chief made this remarkable speech, after
+having heard all the ways and means discussed:--"If we attempt to
+build this church by ourselves, it will never be done: let us
+therefore ask our father, the Governor, to build it for us, and it
+will be done at once."
+
+It was not want of funds, but want of experience, he meant; for the
+funds were to be derived from the sale of Indian lands. The Governor,
+the late Sir Charles Bagot, was petitioned accordingly, and the church
+now stands a most conspicuous ornament of the most beautiful Bay of
+Quinte.
+
+They raised one thousand pounds for this purpose; and, proper
+architects being employed, a contract was entered into for £1037, and
+was duly accepted. How well it would be if this amount could be
+refunded to this loyal and moral people from England! What a mite it
+would take from the pockets of churchmen!
+
+The first stone was laid by S. P. Jarvis, Esq., Chief Superintendent
+of Indians in Canada; and the Archdeacon of Kingston, the truly
+venerable G. O. Stuart, conducted the usual service, which was
+preceded by a procession of the Indians, who, singing a hymn, led the
+way from the wharf where the clergy and visitors had landed from the
+steamers, past the old church, through the grounds appropriated for
+their clergyman's house, and then, ascending the hill westward, they
+crossed the Indian Graves, and reached the site of their new temple.
+_Te Deum_ and the Hundredth Psalm were then sung, and the Archdeacon,
+offering up a suitable prayer, the stone was lowered into its place.
+The following inscription was placed in this stone:--
+
+                         To
+              The Glory of God and Saviour
+        The remnant of the Tribe Kanyeakehaka,
+  In token of their preservation by the Divine Mercy,
+                  through Christ Jesus,
+     In the Sixth Year of our Mother Queen Victoria,
+          Sir Charles Theophilus Metcalfe, G.C.B.
+  Being Governor-General of British North America,
+  The Right Reverend J. Strachan, D.D. and LL.D.,
+                being Bishop of Toronto,
+ and the Reverend Saltern Givins, being in the 13th year
+                   of his Incumbency,
+    The old wooden fabric having answered its end,
+
+                      This Corner Stone
+                             of
+                      Christ's Church,
+                         Tyendinaga,
+                 was laid in the presence of
+         The Venerable George Okill Stuart, LL.D.,
+                  Archdeacon of Kingston,
+     By Samuel Peters Jarvis, Chief Superintendent of
+                   Indian Affairs in Canada,
+          Assisted by various members of the Church,
+            On Tuesday, May 30th, A.D. 1843.
+  James Howard of Toronto, Architect; George Brown of
+                       Kingston, Architect,
+     having undertaken the Supervision of the work,
+       and John D. Pringle being the Contractor.
+
+A hymn was sung by the Indians and Indian children of the school; the
+Rev. William Macauley, of Picton, delivered an address, which was
+followed by a prayer from the Rev. Mr. Deacon, and Collects, after
+which the Archdeacon pronounced the blessing.
+
+I have recited this because I feel that it will interest a very large
+body of my countrymen in England, and trust that those who can afford
+to consider it will not forget the Mohawks of Tyendinaga, in whom I
+take the more interest from having had them under my command during
+the troubles of 1838, and of whose loyalty and excellent conduct then
+I have already informed the reader.
+
+I saw this edifice lately; it is Gothic, with four lancet windows on
+each side, and buttressed regularly. Its space is 60 feet by 40, with
+a front tower projecting; and the spire, very pointed and covered with
+glittering tin, rises out of the dark surrounding woods from a lofty
+eminence of 107 feet. It is certainly the most interesting public
+building in Canada West.
+
+I wish some excellent lady would embroider a royal standard or silk
+union-jack, that the Indians might display it on their tower on high
+days and holidays. Depend upon it they would cherish it as they have
+done the ancient memorials of their faith, which date from Queen Anne.
+
+The Indian village near Brantford also boasts of its place of worship;
+but, although it has its ritual from the Church of England, the
+clergyman comes from the United States and is paid by the society,
+called the New England Society. He has lived many years among his
+flock, and is said to be an excellent man. The Indians are to a man as
+loyal as those of Tyendinaga. The Society has a school which it
+supports also, where from forty to fifty Indian children are taught
+and have various trades to work at.
+
+They are very moral and temperate, and here may be seen the strange
+spectacle, elsewhere in the neighbourhood of the white man so rare--of
+unmixed blood. But the Whites amongst them nevertheless are not of the
+best sample of the race, as a great number of restless American
+borderers have fixed their tents near the Grand River, and they have
+managed to get a good deal of their property and lands, although in
+Canada it is illegal to purchase land from the Indian races. A
+superintendent, an old officer in the British army, is stationed with
+the Five Nations purposely to protect them; yet it is impossible for
+any one to be aware or to guard against the ruffianly practices of
+those who think that the Red Man has no longer a right to cumber the
+earth.
+
+The Five Nations are settling; and it is observed that, whenever they
+cease to be nomadic, and steadily pursue agriculture and the useful
+arts, the decrease, so apparent in their numbers before, begins to
+lessen.
+
+The public works, the great high road to London, and the opening of
+the navigation of the Grand River, have greatly enhanced the value of
+their property, whilst at the same time it has brought dangers with
+those conscienceless adventurers from the bordering States, and from
+the reckless turbulent Irish canal men, who keep the country in
+constant excitement, and who, owing no allegiance to Britain or to the
+American Union, cross over from the States to Canada, or _vice versa_,
+as work or whim dictates, carrying uneasiness and dismay wherever they
+go.
+
+Latterly, however, these worse than savages have been kept in some
+control by the establishment of a mounted or foot police, and by
+stationing parties of the Royal Canadian Regiment on their flanks. The
+military alone can keep them in awe, though they cannot always
+prevent midnight burnings and atrocities. The French Canadians and the
+Indians cordially detest these canallers.
+
+I was told a story in passing through Brantford, which shows how the
+spirit of the lower class of American settlers in this portion of
+Canada is kept up, since they first openly showed it during the
+rebellion.
+
+A regiment of infantry, I think the 81st, was marching to relieve
+another at London, and, on arriving here, weary of the deep sandy or
+miry roads, the men naturally sought the pumps and wells of the
+village. A fellow who keeps a large tavern, called Bradley's Inn,
+hated the sight of the British soldier to that degree, that he locked
+up his pump of good drinking water and left another open, which was
+unfit for any purpose.
+
+Lately, I see by the papers, this good Samaritan, who could not find
+it in his heart to assuage the thirst of a parched throat, or to give
+even a drop of water to the weary, had his house burnt down by
+accident. It is a wonder that he had not tried to place it to the
+account of the soldiers; but, perhaps, he was ashamed, and perhaps,
+they being at so great a distance as London is, he thought that such
+an impossibility would not go down. There was, it appears, no water to
+quench his devouring flame. _Fiat justitia!_
+
+This part of Canada, and about London, has been a chosen region for
+American settlers, and also for loafers from the borders of the
+Republic; and accordingly you observe that which is not obvious in any
+part of the United States, twenty miles from the St. Lawrence, or the
+lakes, great pretension to independence and rough rudeness of manner,
+contrasted by the real independence and quiet bearing of the sons of
+Britain.
+
+The refugees, or whatever the American border-settlers or adventurers
+in Canada may be called, are invariably insolent, vulgar, and
+unbearable in their manners; whilst, away from the frontier, in the
+United States, the traveller observes no ostentatious display of
+Republicanism, no vulgar insolence to strangers, unless it be in the
+bar-room of some wayside tavern, where one is sometimes obliged, as
+elsewhere, to rest awhile, and where the frequenters may be expected
+to be not either polite or polished.
+
+The Americans may be said to live at the bar; and yet, in all great
+cities, the bar of the hotels seldom exhibits anything to offend a
+traveller, who has seen a good deal of the world; nor do I think that
+purposed insult or annoyance would be tolerated towards any foreigner
+who keeps his temper.
+
+So it is all over the world. I remember, as a young man, in the army
+of Occupation in France, when the soul of the nation was ground to
+despair, at seeing foreign soldiers lording it in _la belle France_,
+that, at Valenciennes, St. Omers, Cambray, and all great towns,
+constant collisions and duels occurred from the impetuous temper of
+the half-pay French officers, and yet, in many instances, good sense
+and firmness avoided fatal results.
+
+I know an officer, who was billeted, the night before one of the great
+reviews of the allied troops, in a small country tavern, where an
+Englishman had never before been seen, and he found the house full as
+it could hold of half-pay Napoleonists. The hostess had but one room
+where the guests could dine, and even that had a bed in it; and this
+bed was his billet.
+
+He arrived late, and found it occupied by moustached heroes of the
+guard, Napoleon's cavalry and infantry _demi-soldes_, who had rested
+there to see the review next day, where the battle of Denain was
+fought over again with blank cartridge.
+
+They were at supper and very boisterous, but, with the innate
+_politesse_ of Frenchmen, rose and apologized for occupying his
+bedroom. To go to bed was of course not to be thought of, so he asked
+to be permitted to join the table; and, after eating and drinking, he
+found some of the youngest very much disposed to insult him. He
+watched quietly; at last, toasts were proposed, and they desired him
+to fill to the brim. The toast they said, after a great deal of
+improvising, was to the health of the greatest man and the greatest
+soldier, _Napoléon le Grand!--De tout mon coeur, Napoléon le Grand!_
+
+This took them by surprise; they had no idea that an Englishman could
+see any merit in Napoleon.
+
+"Fill your glasses, gentlemen," said the officer, "to the brim, as I
+filled mine."
+
+They did so, and he said "_A la santé de Napoléon deux_," which was
+then a favourite way with the French Imperialists of toasting his son.
+
+The effect was electric. The most insolent and violent of the _vieux
+moustaches_ took up the stool he was sitting upon and threw it through
+the window; the glasses followed; and then he went round and embraced
+the proposer.
+
+"Brave Anglais!" was shouted from many heated lungs; and the evening
+not only concluded in harmony, but they caused the hostess to make her
+unwelcome visitor as comfortably lodged for the night as the resources
+of her house would admit.
+
+Thus it is all over the world; firmness and prudence carry the
+traveller through among strange people and stranger scenes; and,
+believe me, none but bullies, sharpers, or the dregs of the populace
+in any Christian country will insult a stranger.
+
+All the stories about spitting, and "I guess I can clear you, mister,"
+as the man said when he spat across some stage-coach traveller out of
+the opposite window, are very far-fetched. The Americans certainly do
+spit a great deal too much for their own health and for other people's
+ideas of comfort, but it arises from habit, and the too free practice
+of chewing tobacco. I never saw an American of any class, or, as they
+term it, of any grade, do it offensively, or on purpose to annoy a
+stranger. They do it unconsciously, just as a Frenchman of the old
+school blows his nose at dinner, or as an Englishman turns up his
+coat-tails and occupies a fireplace, to the exclusion of the rest of
+the company.
+
+An Englishman should not form his notions of America from the works of
+professed tourists--men and women who go to the United States, a
+perfectly new country, for the express purpose of making a marketable
+book: these are not the safest of guides. One class goes to depreciate
+Republican institutions, the other to praise them. It is the casual
+and unbiassed traveller who comes nearest to the truth.
+
+Monsieur de Tocqueville was as much prepossesed by his own peculiar
+views of the nature of human society as Mrs. Trollope. Extremes meet;
+but truth lies usually in the centre. It is found at the bottom of the
+well, where it never intrudes itself on general observation.
+
+The Americans have no fixed character as a nation, and how can they?
+The slave-holding cavaliers of the South have little in common with
+the mercantile North; the cultivators and hewers of the western
+forests are wholly dissimilar from the enterprising traders of the
+eastern coast; republicanism is not always democracy, and democracy is
+not always locofocoism; a gentleman is not always a loafer, although
+certainly a loafer is never a gentleman. A cockney, who never went
+beyond Margate, or a sea-sick trip to Boulogne, that paradise of
+prodigals, always fancies that all Americans are Yankees, all
+clock-makers, all spitters, all below his level. He never sees or
+converses with American gentlemen, and his inferences are drawn from
+cheap editions of miserable travels, the stage, or in the liners in
+St. Katherine's Docks, after the company of the cabin has dispersed.
+
+The American educated people are as superior to the American
+uneducated as is the case all over Christendom; and John Bull begins
+to find that out; for steam has brought very different travellers to
+the United States from the bagmen and adventurers, the penny-a-liners,
+and the _miserables_ whose travels put pence into their pockets, and
+who saw as little of real society in America as the poor Vicar of
+Wakefield's family, before they knew Mr. Burchell.
+
+The Americans you meet with in Canada are, with some exceptions,
+adventurers of the lowest classes, who, with the dogmatism of
+ignorant intolerance, hate monarchy because they were taught from
+infancy that it was naught. Such are the people who lock up their
+pumps; but they are not all alike. There are many, many, very
+different, who have emigrated to Canada, because they dislike mob
+influence, because they live unmolested and without taxation, and
+because they are not liable every moment to agrarian aggression.
+
+In this part of the Canadas, the runaway slaves from the Southern
+States are very numerous.
+
+There is an excellent covered bridge over the Grand River at
+Brantford; and, on crossing this in the waggon, we saw a good-hearted
+Irishman do what Mr. Bradley refused to do, that is, give drink to a
+wayfarer. This wayfarer resembled the Red Coat that Mr. Bradley hated
+so in one particular--he had his armour on. It was a huge mud turtle,
+which had most inadvertently attempted to cross the road from the
+river into the low grounds, and a waggon had gone over it; but the
+armour was proof, and it was only frightened. So the old Irish
+labourer, after examining the great curiosity at all points, took it
+up carefully and restored it to the element it so greatly
+needed--water. Was he not the Good Samaritan?
+
+Whilst here, we were told that at Alnwick, in the Newcastle district,
+the government has located an Indian settlement on the Rice Lake very
+carefully. Each Indian has twenty-five acres of land, and a fine creek
+runs through the place, on the banks of which the Indian houses have
+been built so judiciously, that the inhabitants have access to it on
+both sides.
+
+The Mohawk language is pronounced without opening and shutting the
+lips, labials being unknown. Some call the real name of the tribe
+Kan-ye-ha-ke-ha-ka, others Can-na-ha-hawk, whence Mohawk by
+corruption.
+
+After staying a short time at Clement's Inn, which is a very good one,
+we left Brantford at half-past one, and were much pleased with the
+neatness of the place, and particularly with the view near the bridge
+of the river. The Indian village and its church are down the stream to
+the left, about two miles from the town, and embowered in woods.
+
+We drove along for eight miles to the Chequered Sheds, a small village
+so called; at twenty minutes to four reached Burford, two miles
+further on, which is another small place on Burford Plains, with a
+church; and at a quarter past four reached a very neat establishment,
+a short distance beyond a small creek, and called the Burford Exchange
+Inn. The country is well settled, with good houses and farms.
+
+We stopped a short time at Phelan's Inn, four miles and a half on,
+just beyond which the macadamized road commences again; but the
+country is not much settled between the Exchange and Phelan's Inn.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+  Woodstock--Brock District--Little England--Aristocratic Society in the
+  Bush--How to settle in Canada as a Gentleman should do--Reader, did
+  you ever Log?--Life in the Bush--The true Backwoods.
+
+
+We arrived at Woodstock at eight p.m., and were delighted with the
+rich appearance of the settlement and country, resembling some of the
+best parts of England, and possessing a good road macadamized from
+granite boulders.
+
+Woodstock is a long village, neatly and chiefly built of wood, fifty
+three miles from Hamilton. It is the county town of the Brock
+district; and here numbers of gentlemen of small fortunes have settled
+themselves from England and Ireland. It is a thriving place, and their
+cottages and country houses are chiefly built, and their grounds laid
+out, in the English style, with park palings. Sir John Colborne has
+the merit of settling this loyal population in the centre of the
+western part of Canada.
+
+The old road went through a place called absurdly enough Paris, from
+the quantity of gypsum with which the neighbourhood abounds; and fine
+specimens of silurian fossils of the trilobite family and of
+madrepores, millepores, and corallics, are found here. Love's Hotel is
+the best in the village, and a good one it is.
+
+What with the truly English scenery of the Oak Plains, the good road,
+and the British style of settlement, Woodstock would appear to be the
+spot at which a man tired of war's alarms should pitch his tent; and
+accordingly there are many old officers here; but the land is dear and
+difficult now to obtain. A recent traveller says it is the most
+aristocratic settlement in the province, and contains, within ten
+miles round, scions of the best English and Irish families; and that
+the society is quite as good as that of an average country
+neighbourhood at home. The price of land he quotes at £4 sterling an
+acre for cleared, and from £1 to £1 10s. for wild land. A friend of
+his gave £480 for sixty cleared and one hundred uncleared acres, with
+a log house, barn, and fences.
+
+He moreover gives this useful information, that very few gentlemen
+farmers do more than make their farms keep their families, and never
+realize profit: thus, he says, a single man going to Woodstock to
+settle ought to have at least one hundred pounds a year income quite
+clear, after paying for his land, house, and improvements.
+
+I have seen a good deal of farming and of farmers in Canada. Farming
+there is by no means a life of pleasure; but, if a young man goes into
+the Bush with a thorough determination to chop, to log, to plough, to
+dig, to delve, to make his own candles, kill his own hogs and sheep,
+attend to his horses and his oxen, and "bring in firing at requiring,"
+and abstains from whiskey, it signifies very little whether he is
+gentle or simple, an honourable or a homespun, he will get on. Life in
+the Bush is, however, no joke, not even a practical one. It involves
+serious results, with an absence of cultivated manners and matters,
+toil, hardship, and the effects of seasoning, including ague and
+fever.
+
+_Recipe._--First buy your land in as fine a part of the province as
+possible, then build your log-hut, and a good barn and stable, with
+pig and sheep-pens. Then commence with a hired hand, whom you must not
+expect to treat you _en seigneur_, and who will either go shares with
+you in the crops, or require £30 currency a year, and his board and
+lodging.
+
+Begin hewing and hacking till you have cleared two or three acres for
+wheat, oats, and grass, with a plot for potatoes and Indian corn.
+
+When you have cut down the giant trees, then comes the logging.
+Reader, did you ever log? It is precious work! Fancy yourself in a
+smock-frock, the best of all working dresses, having cut the huge
+trees into lengths of a few feet, rolling these lengths up into a
+pile, and ranging the branches and brush-wood for convenient
+combustion; then waiting for a favourable wind, setting fire to all
+your heaps, and burying yourself in grime and smoke; then rolling up
+these half-consumed enormous logs, till, after painful toil, you get
+them to burn to potash.
+
+Wearied and exhausted with labour and heat, you return to your cabin
+at night, and take a peep in your shaving-glass. You start back, for,
+instead of the countenance you were charmed to meet at the weekly
+beard reckoning, you see a collier's face, a collier's hands, and your
+smock-frock converted into a charcoal-burner's blouse.
+
+Cutting down the forest is hard labour enough until practice makes you
+perfect; chopping is hard work also; but logging, logging--nobody
+likes logging.
+
+Then, when you plough afterwards, or dig between the black stumps,
+what a pleasure! Every minute bump goes the ploughshare against a
+stone or a root, and your clothes carry off charcoal at a railroad
+pace.
+
+It takes thirty years for pine-stumps to decay, five or six for the
+hard woods; and it is of no use to burn the pine-roots, for it only
+makes them more iron-like; but then the neighbours, if you have any,
+are usually kind: they help you to log, and to build your log-hut.
+
+Your food too is very spicy and gentlemanlike in the Bush: barrels of
+flour, barrels of pork, fat as butter and salt as brine, with tea,
+sugar--maple-sugar, mind, which tastes very like candied
+horehound--and a little whiskey, country whiskey, a sort of
+non-descript mixture of bad kirschwasser with tepid water, and not of
+the purest _goût_. Behold your _carte_. If you have a gun, which you
+must have in the Bush, and a dog, which you may have, just to keep you
+company and to talk to, you may now and then kill a Canada pheasant,
+ycleped partridge, or a wild duck, or mayhap a deer; but do not think
+of bringing a hound or hounds, for you can kill a deer just as well
+without them, and I never remember to have heard of a young settler
+with hounds coming to much good. Moreover, the old proverb says, a man
+may be known by his followers: and it is as absurd for a poor fellow,
+without money, to have great ban-dogs at his heels, as it would be for
+a rich nobleman to live in his garret upon bread and water. Moreover,
+in Canada, most sportsmen are mere idlers, and generally neglectful
+either of their professions or of their farms. Many a fine young
+fellow has been ruined in Canada, by fancying it very fine to copy the
+officers of the army in their sportsmanship, forgetting that these
+officers could afford both in time and money what they could not.
+
+Keep your house, and your house will keep you. Almost all settlers too
+have mothers, wives, sisters, brothers, cousins, to assist them, or to
+provide for; and, if they are industrious, a few years make them happy
+and independent.
+
+Even £50 a year of clear income in the Bush is a very pretty sum, and
+£100 per annum places you on the top of the tree--a magnate, a
+magistrate, a major of militia.
+
+I know many, many worthy families, who live well with their pensions
+or their half-pay.
+
+What a luxury to have your own land, two hundred acres!--to live
+without the chandler, the butcher, the baker, the huxter, and the
+grocer! Tea, a little sugar and coffee, these are your real luxuries.
+
+Soap you make out of the ley of your own potash; fat you get from your
+pigs or your sheep, which supply you with candles and food; and by and
+by the good ox and the fatted calf, the turkey, the goose, and the
+chicken, give your frugal board an air of gourmandism; whilst in this
+climate all the English garden vegetables and common fruits require
+only a little care to bring them to perfection. Indian corn and
+buckwheat make excellent cakes and hominy; and you take your own wheat
+to be ground at the nearest mill, where the miller requires no money,
+but only grist. In like manner, the boards for your house are to be
+had at the sawmill for logs, for potash, for wheat, for oats.
+
+Keep a few choice books for an evening, and provide yourself with
+stout boots and shoes, a good coat, and etceteras, besides your
+smock-frock and shooting-jacket of fustian, and its continuations, and
+let the rest follow; for you will at last take to wear country
+homespun, when occasions of state do not require it otherwise, such as
+church and tea-parties of more than ordinary interest.
+
+People talk about life in the Bush as they do about life in London,
+without knowing very much about either. Backwoods and backwoodsmen are
+novelties which amuse for the moment. A backwoodsman, who never worked
+at a farm, although he may be much in the habit of seeing farmers, has
+not always just conceptions. He must not live in a village newly made,
+but actually reside in a log-hut, just erecting, to know what life in
+the Bush is. Gentlemen and lady travellers are the worst judges
+possible, because, even if they go and visit their friends, the best
+foot is always put foremost to receive them, and vanity or love
+induces every sacrifice to make them comfortable.
+
+They see nothing of the labours of the seven months' winter, of the
+aguish wet autumn, of the uncertain spring, of the tropical summer, of
+ice, of frost, of musquitoes and black flies, of mud and mire, of
+swamp and rock, of all the innumerable drawbacks with which the spirit
+of the settler has to contend, or the very coarse and scanty fare to
+solace him after his toils of the day.
+
+See a young pair of brothers, sons of an officer of high rank, whose
+father dying left them but partially provided for, with a mother and
+several grown-up daughters.
+
+They fly to France to live. This resource might, by a war, be soon
+broken up. The sons collect what remains of money--they arrive in
+Canada. They purchase cheap land far in the interior, miles away from
+any town. They build a log-hut, clear their land, and accumulate
+gradually the furniture and household goods. Toil, toil, toil. The
+log-hut is enlarged. The mother and daughters are invited from home to
+join their "life in the Bush." They are expected. Everything is made
+comfortable for them. The brothers are chopping in the woods--night
+approaches. They return--return to find their log-house, furniture,
+wardrobe, books, linen--every thing consumed. They are wanderers in
+the wilderness. Do they despair? Yes, because one brother, the
+strongest, takes cold--he lingers, he dies.
+
+The survivor, indomitable, yet bowing under his accumulated
+afflictions, assisted by his neighbours, builds another log-house. His
+mother and sisters arrive, are dispersed among the nearest neighbours,
+get the ague. Struggle, struggle, struggle! on, on, on! The pension
+here is of service. The girls, brought up in luxury, scions of a good
+race, turn their hands cheerfully to do every thing. Their conduct is
+admired. Other settlers from the gentry at home arrive with some
+capital. The locality turns out good. The girls marry well. The
+surviving son, ten years afterwards, has four hundred acres of his
+own--thinks of building a house fit for a gentleman farmer to live in,
+and is surrounded by broad acres of wheat, without a stump to be seen,
+with a large flock of sheep grazing peacefully on his green meadows,
+and cattle enough to secure him from want.
+
+This is one case, under my own eye, and the moral of it is, neither of
+the sons drank whiskey.
+
+Look at another picture. An officer of respectable rank, young and
+tired of the service, where promotion is not even in prospect, settles
+in Canada--he has money. He buys at once a fine tract of forest,
+converts it by his money into a fertile farm, builds an excellent
+house, furnishes it, marries.
+
+Knowing nothing of farming, fond of his dogs and his gun, delighted in
+a canoe and duck-shooting, absent day after day in the deer-tracks,
+occasionally killing a wolf or a bear, absorbed in sport, he leaves
+his farm to the sole care of an industrious man, who receives half
+the crops. He is cheated at every turn; the man buys with the profits
+land for himself, and leaves him abruptly.
+
+The fine house requires repairs, the fences get out of order, the
+cattle and the pigs roam wherever they like. Money, too much money,
+has been laid out. The fine young man perhaps becomes a confirmed
+drunkard. _Voilà le fin!_
+
+This is another case under my own observation, and I very much regret
+indeed to say that, of the class of gentlemen settlers, it is by far
+more frequent and observable than the first. Habits of shooting beget
+habits of drinking and smoking; and it is not at all uncommon in the
+backwoods to see a man whom you have known on the sunny side of St.
+James's, dressed in the height of fashion, and of most elegant
+manners, walking along with his pointer and his gun in a smock-frock
+or blouse, a pipe, a clay-pipe stuck in the ribbon of his hat, and
+with evident tokens of whiskey upon him.
+
+If he works at his farm, which all who are not overburthened with
+riches must do, and those that are usually remain in England, he works
+hard; and then reflect, reader, that chopping and logging, that
+cradling wheat and ploughing land, are not mere amusements, but entail
+the original ban, the sweat of the brow--he must every now and then
+drink, drink, drink. I have seen a man who would otherwise have been a
+high ornament to society, whose acquirements were very great, and who
+brought out an excellent library, abandon literature and his army
+manners, and drink whiskey, not by the glass but by the tumbler. And
+what is it, you will naturally ask, that can induce a reasoning soul
+to do thus? Why!--lack of society, want of current information, the
+long and tedious winter, and the labours of spring and of autumn. In
+fact, it is "the backwoods," the listlessness of the backwoods, which,
+like the opposite extreme, the fatuity and _blasé_ life of a great
+metropolis, causes men to rush into insane extremes to avoid
+reflection. The mind is dulled and blunted.
+
+The following facts, translated from an interesting article in the
+"_Mélanges Religieux_," a Roman Catholic periodical, published in
+Montreal, in the French language, may be relied on, to show how
+narrowed the ideas of a man constantly residing in the woods are:--
+
+         "There arrived in Montreal, on Wednesday last, a
+         young man about twenty years of age, who had come
+         down from Hudson's Bay, without having, during his
+         long journey, stopped in any town, village, or
+         civilized settlement; so that he stumbled into
+         Montreal with as little idea of a town or of
+         civilization as if he had fallen from the moon, for
+         he had lived on the northern shores of the bay, and
+         had but seldom visited the fur-trading
+         establishments. He had only last spring seen, at
+         Abbititi, Messieurs Moreau and Durauquet, the Roman
+         Catholic Missionaries. He was born of Roman
+         Catholic parents, his father being Scotch, his
+         mother Irish. But he had never left the woods nor
+         the life in the wilds, and had never seen a priest
+         before last spring. How strange must have been the
+         emotions in the breast of this young man on finding
+         himself thus suddenly cast into the midst of this
+         large town, as one would throw a bale of furs! He
+         expressed his feelings at the time as partaking
+         more of stupor than of admiration.
+
+         "When he had recovered from the confusion of his
+         ideas consequent upon the novelty of his situation,
+         he sought the Bishop's residence, according to the
+         instructions of his father; and at length found
+         himself more at ease, for, understanding his
+         singular position, those he there met with assisted
+         him to collect his scattered thoughts. In answer to
+         the questions addressed to him (he speaks English,
+         and can read and write), he replied that he could
+         not consent to live in such a place; that the noise
+         deafened him, while the crowds of people, running
+         in all directions, agitated and astonished him in a
+         manner he could not explain. He experienced a
+         sensation of suffocation on finding himself
+         enclosed, as it were, in streets of lofty houses;
+         he saw and admired nothing, being every moment in
+         dread of losing himself in the labyrinth of
+         streets, more difficult for him to recognize than
+         the scarcely marked pathways of his native forests.
+         He was not curious to see any thing, and felt only
+         the desire to fly at once, and again to breathe
+         freely, away from what he felt to be the restraints
+         of civilization. He was taken to the cathedral,
+         where he saw the pictures, the paintings on the
+         roof, and all the ornaments of the church--they
+         were explained to him, and he prayed before the
+         high altar and that of the Holy Virgin. He believed
+         all the instructions of the Church, and was
+         sufficiently informed to receive baptism. During
+         his visit to the church, the organ was played, and
+         an explanation was given him of its harmony. In the
+         midst of all these to him surprising novelties, he
+         was asked what was the predominant sensation in his
+         mind; he answered fear, and that his other feelings
+         he was unable to explain.
+
+         "This simple child of nature, the _naïveté_ of
+         whose language, emotions, and habits so strongly
+         contrasted with the surrounding artificial
+         civilization, afforded a singular study to those
+         present. However humiliating to our self-love, the
+         conduct of this young man abundantly proved that
+         the civilization of which we are so proud, our
+         buildings, our wealth, our industry, all our
+         activity and noise, do not fill with the admiration
+         we expect those who are brought up far from our
+         opulent cities and our artificial manners. Nature,
+         in these immense solitudes, in these primitive
+         manners, has then charms unknown to us, to be
+         preferred to those which, in our existing state, we
+         find so incomparable. We must here close our
+         reflections, for fear of falling into paradoxes
+         difficult to be avoided in questions of this
+         nature.
+
+         "This young man has departed, without regret, and
+         has gone to the township of Raudon, where he has
+         relations. There he will again find forests, and
+         will be able to breathe freely, without fearing
+         that the lofty dwellings of the city will intercept
+         his view of the blue sky and the bright sun which
+         he loves."
+
+Even near population, the settler has, in his way to town and market,
+to bait his cattle at roadside taverns, where the bar is the place of
+business, where he meets neighbours, and hears the news of the market
+and of the world; and the facility with which, throughout Upper
+Canada, these grog-shops obtain licenses from the magistrates is so
+great that the evil every day increases.
+
+In towns, this is most particularly observed, and also that, under the
+designation of "beer-licenses" the most infamous houses for drinking
+and vice are suffered to exist. It is full time that the parliament
+interfered with these license-granters, who increase intemperance
+instead of using their magisterial office to put a stop to it. Father
+Matthew's principles are much wanted in Canada West.
+
+In Eastern Canada, or, as it is better known, Lower Canada, the
+contrary is the case. The Canadian French, as a people, are temperate,
+although the canoe and batteaux men, lumberers and voyageurs, from
+the lonely and hard lives they lead, drink to excess; yet the Canadian
+is a sober character.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+  Beachville--Ingersoll--Dorchester--Plank road--Westminster
+  Hall--London--The great Fire of London--Longwoods--Delaware--The
+  Pious, glorious, and immortal Memory--Moncey--The German
+  Flats--Tecumseh--Moravian settlement--Thamesville--The Mourning
+  Dove--The War, the War--Might against Right--Cigar-smoking and all
+  sorts of curiosity--Young Thames--The Albion--The loyal Western
+  District--America as it now is.
+
+
+I was detained at Woodstock for some time by the sickness of one of
+the horses. The animal had dropped in his stable after our arrival,
+and refused to feed; consequently, our driver had to look for another;
+and a miserable one, at a large price, he got. The intense heat had
+overpowered the horse.
+
+We departed, however, at half-past six in the morning, on the 10th
+July, and reached Beachville, five miles westward.
+
+Beachville is a small country village, beautifully situated, and the
+country between is undulating and rich. The driver pointed out Mr.
+John Vansittart's house, an English looking residence, with extensive
+grounds.
+
+A creek, called Hard Creek, runs along the road with several
+mill-sites on it. It loses itself every now and then in deep woods;
+and altogether this is the prettiest country I have ever seen in
+Canada. The land also appears good.
+
+At Beachville are saw, grist, and water-mills on an extensive scale,
+the best in the country, owned and worked by Scotch people.
+
+The creek called Little Thames is seen also, which runs through the
+Canada Company's lands to the Forks of the Thames at London. This is a
+settlement forty years old; consequently, every thing is forward in
+it.
+
+We then came through an equally fine, old-settled country, to
+Ingersoll, five miles farther. This is a straggling place of about the
+same age, with mills and creeks, and a large inn, called the Mansion
+House (Hoffman's).
+
+We drove on to Dorchester, a small settlement and an old mill-site,
+about eighteen miles from London, where we stopped to recruit our
+wretched horse, at half-past ten. Here we breakfasted at a roadside
+inn, not very good nor very comfortable, but were glad to observe that
+the plank road commenced again.
+
+A plank road in England would be a curiosity indeed: here it is none:
+fancy rolling along a floor of thick boards through field and forest
+for a hundred miles. The boards are covered with earth, or gravel, if
+it can be had, and this deadens the noise and prevents the wear and
+tear, so that you glide along pretty much the same as a child's
+go-cart goes over the carpet. But this will only do where wood is
+plentiful, and thus the time must come, even in Canada, when gravelled
+roads or iron rails will supersede it.
+
+The country was poorer in this section, being very sandy, until near
+the tavern called Westminster Hall; what a name! But the beautiful
+little river was occasionally in sight in a hollow of woods of the
+richest foliage. At one place we saw a party of Indians with ponies
+and goods, going down to a ford, where no doubt their canoes awaited
+them. Their appearance as they descended was very picturesque, armed
+as they were with rifles and fowling-pieces, very Salvator Rosaish.
+
+Westminster Hall, where we arrived at ten minutes to two o'clock, and
+staid an hour to bait, is six miles and a half from London. Cockney
+land everywhere.
+
+On our approaching the new capital of the London District, we saw
+evident signs of recent exertions. Fine turnpike-gates, excellent
+roads, arbours for pic-nic parties, and before us, at a distance, a
+large wide-spread clearance, in which spires and extensive buildings
+lifted their heads.
+
+London is a perfectly new city; it was nothing but a mere forest
+settlement before 1838, and is now a very large, well laid out town.
+We arrived at five p.m., and put up at a very indifferent inn, the
+best however which the great fire of London had spared. The town is
+laid out at right angles, each street being very wide and very sandy,
+and where the fire had burnt the wooden squares of houses we saw brick
+ones rising up rapidly. There is now a splendid hotel, (O'Neill's and
+Hackstaff's) where you may really meet with luxury as well as comfort,
+for I see, _mirabile dictu_, that fresh lobsters and oysters are
+advertised for every day in the season. These come from the Atlantic
+coast of the United States, some thousand miles or so; but what will
+not steam and railroad do! We saw a stone church erecting; and there
+is an immense barrack, containing the 81st regiment of infantry and a
+mounted company, or, as it is called in military parlance, a battery
+of artillery.
+
+London was so thickly beset with disaffected Americans during the
+rebellion, that it was deemed necessary to check them by stationing
+this force in the heart of the district; and since then the military
+expenditure and the excellent situation of the place has created a
+town, and will soon create a large city.
+
+The adjacent country is very beautiful, particularly along the
+meandering banks of the Thames. I saw some excellent stores, or
+general shops; and, although the houses, excepting in the main street,
+are at present scattered, and there is nothing but oceans of sand in
+the middle, it wants only time to become a very important place.
+General Simcoe, when he first settled Upper Canada, thought of making
+it the metropolis, but it is not well situated for that purpose, being
+too accessible from the United States.
+
+I staid here all night and part of next day; and here I found the
+disadvantages of an education for the bar; for my bedroom was
+immediately over it, and it was open the greatest part of the night.
+Drinking, smoking, smoking, drinking, incessant, with concomitant
+noise and bad language; which, combined with a necessity for keeping
+the window open on account of the heat, rendered sleep impossible. I
+have slept from sheer fatigue under a cannon, or rather very near it,
+when it was firing, but Vauban himself could not have slept with the
+thermometer at 100° Fahrenheit over a Canadian tap-room.
+
+I was glad to leave London in Canada West for that reason, and
+departed the next day in a fresh waggon at half-past five p.m.,
+arriving at the Corners, six miles off, where a bran-new settlement
+and bran-new toll-gate appeared with a fine cross road, that to the
+right leading to Westminster, that to the left to Lake Erie. I was
+sorry that the plank road was finished only to this place; but we had
+fine settlements all the way.
+
+Then begins a new country, and that most dreary and monotonous of
+Canadian landscape scenery--the Long Woods. This lasts to Delaware,
+where we stopped at eight o'clock, on a fine evening, having travelled
+twelve miles from the Corners.
+
+Here the road suddenly turns from the river to the right; and we drove
+past Buller's New House, which he is building, to his old stand. It
+was ancient enough, but respectable; and if the rats and mice and
+other small deer could only have been persuaded that one had had no
+sleep the night before and that the weather was intensely hot, we
+should have done well enough; although some soldiers on a look-out
+party for deserters, and some travellers, were not at all inclined to
+sleep themselves, or to let others enjoy the blessings of repose.
+
+Delaware is a very pretty village, and the Indians are settled some
+seven miles from it. It has a very large and very long bridge over the
+Thames.
+
+We started, most militarily, at four in the morning of Friday the 12th
+of July, without recollecting King William, or the Pious, Glorious,
+and Immortal Memory. But we were to be reminded of it.
+
+Here we saw the labours of the Board of Works in the Great Western
+Road to much advantage, in deep cuttings and embankments, fine
+culverts and bridges, with lots of the sons of green Erin--"first
+flower of the earth, and first gem of the sea"--and their cabins along
+the line of works, preparing the level for planking.
+
+The country is flat, but very fine and well settled. Quails amused
+themselves along the road, looking at us from the wooden rail fences,
+and did not leave their perches without persuasion. The rascals looked
+knowing, too, as if they were aware that waggoners did not carry guns.
+
+I heard the real whip-poor-will or night-jar last night frequently,
+sighing his melancholy ditty along the banks of the beautiful Thames.
+The cry of the Canada quail, which is a very small partridge-like
+bird, is very plaintive. As we passed them, they gave it out
+heartily--Phu--Phoo-iey. We arrived at Smith's tavern, seventeen
+miles, at half-past seven, breakfasted, and stayed until ten, at that
+miserable place.
+
+We then drove on, and passed Moncey in Caradoc, so named from an
+Indian tribe. It is a pretty village, where they had just finished a
+church, whereon banners were flying, which showed us, that if we had
+forgotten King William, some folks here had not; and, out of bravado,
+a refugee American had stuck a pocket-handkerchief flag of the Stars
+and Stripes up at his shop-door, which we prophesied, as evening
+came, would be pulled down, because orange, blue, and red flags
+flourished near it. This is an Indian village, into which the
+Americans and other white traders and adventurers have set foot.
+
+I was charmed with the scenery, consisting of fertile fields, rich
+woods, the ever-winding Thames and undulating mammillated hills,
+covered with verdure. Happy Indians, if unhappy Whites were not
+thrusting you out!
+
+We arrived at one o'clock at Fleming's Inn, much better than the last,
+twelve miles. Here we rested awhile.--Starting again, the country was
+found but very little settled, with long tiresome woods, but still
+beautiful, all nearly oak. We halted at the German Flats, not to get
+out, for there was no abiding-place, but to look at the ground, where
+the battle in the last American war took place, in which Tecumseh, the
+great Tecumseh, met his death, and where Kentucky heroes made
+razor-straps of his skin.
+
+Seven miles after leaving these immense woods, the valley of the
+Thames opens most magnificently in a gorge below, and spreads into
+rich flats to the left, embowered with the most beautiful forest
+scenery, in which, about a mile off, stand the Moravian church,
+school, and Indian village. A more lovely spot could not have been
+selected. There is a large Indian settlement of old date here; and, as
+we drove along, we passed through two deserted orchards; the road had
+rendered them useless; and, from which and its neighbourhood, the
+Indians had retired into their settled village below. Here the forest
+was gradually regaining the mastery: fruit-trees had become wild, and
+the Thames ran in a deep bold ravine far below, clothed with aged and
+solemn trees, willows and poplars, intermixed with oak, beech, ash,
+and altogether English and park-like. It put me in mind of the opening
+chapter of "Ivanhoe."
+
+The road was a deep sand; and we stopped a little at Smith's Inn,
+three miles and a half from our night's halt. Here the soil changes to
+clay, and the country is not much settled, but is beginning to be so.
+We saw bevies of quail on the roadside, which the driver cut at with
+his whip, but they were not disposed to fly. We arrived at Freeman's
+Inn at half-past six p.m., twelve miles, and brought up for the night
+at Thamesville, where there is a dam and an extensive bridge, and
+altogether the preparation for the plank road is a very extraordinary
+work, embracing much deep cutting. Here all is sand again, but the
+occasional glimpses of the Thames, as you approach this village, are
+very fine and picturesque. Squirrels, particularly the ground species,
+or chippemunk, amused us a good deal by their gambols as we drove
+along. The village of Thamesville is very small.
+
+Oh, Father Thames, did you ever dream of having _ville_ tacked to your
+venerable name? But, as the Nevilles have it, _ne vile velis_.
+
+I amused myself here on a scorching evening with looking about me, as
+well as the heat would permit; and here I first heard and first saw
+that curious little Canadian bird, the mourning dove. It came hopping
+along the ground close to the inn, but the evening was not light
+enough for me to distinguish more than that it was very small, not so
+big as a quail, and dark-coloured. It seemed to prefer the sandy road;
+and, as it had probably never been molested, picked up the oats or
+grain left in feeding the horses. It became so far domesticated as to
+approach mankind, although the slightest advance towards it sent it
+away. My host, a very intelligent man, told me that it always came
+thus on the hot summer nights; and we soon heard at various distances
+its soft but exceedingly melancholy call. It appears peculiar to this
+part of Canada, and is the smallest of the dove kind. I know of
+nothing to compare with its soft, cadenced, and plaintive cry; it
+almost makes one weep to hear it, and is totally different from the
+coo of the turtle dove. When it begins, and the whip-poor-will joins
+the concert, one is apt to fancy there is a lament among the feathered
+kind for some general loss, in the stillness and solemnity of a
+summer's night, when the leaves of the vast and obscure forest are
+unruffled, when the river is just murmuring in the distance, and the
+moon emerging from and re-entering the drifting night-cloud, in a land
+of the mere remnant of the Indian tribes gone to their eternal rest.
+
+This in a contemplative mood forcibly reminds us of that sublime
+passage of holy writ, wherein that thrilling command is embodied, to
+"Remember now thy Creator in the days of thy youth, when he shall rise
+up at the voice of the bird."
+
+The cruel treatment of the aborigines of that half of the world
+discovered by Columbus rises, on such an occasion, to the memory, with
+all its force. Here we stood on that soil, a small portion of which
+has been doled out to them in return for an empire; and here we could
+not avoid reflecting upon the injustice which has been so unsparingly
+dealt out to the Indian in that neighbouring Republic instituted to
+secure freedom and impartial government to all men.
+
+Yes, a nation claiming to be the most powerful under the sun, claiming
+a common origin, quarrelled for self-government; the mild sway of a
+limited monarchy was tyranny and bigotry; established laws and a state
+religion were swept away under a feeling that the child was strong
+enough to defy the parent. A more perfect form of government was
+necessary to the welfare of the human race: Washington arose, and a
+Republic was created. Did it continue in unison with the aspirations
+and views of that great man? did he think it requisite to extirpate
+the Red Men? did he forbid the Catholic to exercise the rights of
+conscience? did he intend that the Conscript Fathers should break
+their ivory wands, and bow to the dust before plebeian rule? did he
+imagine, in declaring all men equal, that mind was to succumb before
+mere matter, that intelligence was to be ground under the foot of
+physical force?
+
+The Englishman, the true Englishman, and by that word I mean a citizen
+of England, a Canadian, as well as he born in Britain or Ireland,
+judges differently; he acknowledges all men equal, and that all have
+an equal right inherent in them to receive equal protection; but he
+renders to Cæsar the things that are Cæsar's, and as he loves his own
+self, so loves he the representative of every soul bearing the proud
+name of a British subject.
+
+He well knows, from the experience of all history, sacred and profane,
+that it is by maintaining order, in the institution of divers ranks in
+society and in government, that the true balance of power is found;
+and he feels that, if once that power is obtained by either extreme of
+the scale, his liberty, both of mind and of body, is at an end.
+
+The manner in which Indian rights are treated in America is so
+glaring, that the philanthropist shudders. Protocols pass; the country
+west of the Mississippi is declared to belong first to Mexico, then to
+Spain, then to France, then to England, then to the United States. At
+last, the United States, strong enough to play a new game, a much more
+lofty one than the Tea Tragedy, defies the whole world, issues a
+decree irrevocable as those famous ones of the Medes and the
+Persians, and, perhaps, equally to pass into oblivion, that all the
+New World is to be the property of the descendants of the
+Anglo-Saxons--all the New World, never mind whether it be Monarchical
+England's, Imperial Brazil, Republican Mexico, Peru, Bolivia, &c.--all
+is to be guided by the banner of the Stars and Stripes.
+
+Who among the statesmen ever dreams that the Red Man has any rights,
+who ever cares about his property in the wilds of the Prairies, of the
+Rocky Mountains, of the unknown lands of the Pacific! The United
+States declares that all Northern America is hers from the Atlantic to
+the Pacific, and the bloody flag of war is unfurled to obtain the
+commencement of this crusade against right and against reason,
+although the United States has ten times as much land already as ten
+times its present population can fill or cultivate, and then, Oregon
+is the war cry,
+
+  "Truly to speak it, and with no addition,
+  We go to gain a little patch of ground,
+  That hath in it no profit but the name;
+  To pay five _dollars_, five, I would not farm it;
+  Two thousand souls and twenty _million dollars_
+  Will not debate the question of this straw;
+  This is th' imposthume of much wealth and peace,
+  That inward breaks, and shows no cause without
+  Why the man dies--"
+
+and then, in case Oregon should fail, advantage is taken of Mexico's
+distractions to negotiate for California.
+
+The Red Man, the poor Red Man, may however have a voice in all this,
+that may speak in thunder. He is neither so powerless, nor so utterly
+contemptible as is supposed. In the wilds of the West, it is said,
+including the roaming horsemen of Mexico, 100,000 warriors exist. Even
+against 20,000, what army entangled in the forest, hidden in the
+Prairie grass, lost in the wilderness defiles of the vast Andes of the
+north, could also exist? and can the American government afford to
+detach regular troops for such a dreadful warfare? will the militia
+undertake it? Can an American fleet of sufficient power and resources
+be kept in the Pacific to counteract and send supplies? He who knows
+the western wilds well knows that once concentrate Indian warfare, and
+it would be impossible to keep together or to supply such an army as
+that of the Republic, unsupported, as it must necessarily be, by a
+fleet.
+
+The time is coming, and that rapidly, there can be no doubt, when the
+white man will possess exclusively the Pacific coast; but this is to
+be achieved by the commercial and not by the physical power, and that
+it is yet very distant when any one nation will obtain it is the
+belief of all reasoning people; for even should the Americans force
+Mexico from its proper station, should they obtain California and
+Oregon, will Russia look quite quietly on, will France see her great
+scheme of Pacific colonization in danger, and will England tamely
+submit to have her eastern territories and the new trade with China
+put in jeopardy?
+
+I think not, and also conceive that it is as impossible for the United
+States to support a lengthened war with any great European power as
+it is for any great European power to conquer or to subdue any portion
+of the United States.
+
+Spain too is gradually recovering from the shock, which the loss of
+her Ophir inflicted on her; more liberal notions are gaining ground in
+Iberia; and it is by no means impossible, that, backed by France, she
+may yet resume her power in America. Look at the tenacity with which,
+amidst all her reverses, she has held on to Cuba.
+
+There is, in fact, no surmising the results of a mad war on the part
+of America.
+
+But, in all their profound calculations, the Indian, the poor despised
+Indian, is forgotten. How he is to live, how he is to die, are alike
+matters of indifference.
+
+Well may the mourning dove haunt the villages of the Five Nations!
+
+Thamesville--how I detest the combination! it must have been named in
+the very spirit of gin-sling--is a place very likely to become of
+importance when the great western road is quite completed.
+
+I was listening to the mourning dove, which then gave a balm to my
+wounded spirit, when I observed on the bench under the verandah, or
+_stoup_, as the Dutch settlers call it, of the inn, on the seat near
+me, a mass of black mud, or some such substance. Always curious--a
+phrenologic doctor told me I had the bump of wonder--I took hold of
+it, and found it to be adherent. It smelt strongly of bitumen. The
+landlord seeing me examining it chimed in, and said that the Indians
+had brought it to him from thirteen miles beyond Cornwall's Creek,
+where there was an immense deposit of the same kind. It was, in fact,
+soft asphalte, or petroleum, or bitumen, or whatever the learned may
+please to designate it, in a state of coherence.
+
+My researches did not stop here: I had had specimens of all the
+Canadian woods to send officially for transmission to England, and
+amongst others I had observed a very curious one, called white wood,
+which was certainly neither pine, nor any thing approaching to the fir
+kind. It was very light, very tenacious, and is extensively employed
+in this portion of Canada, where fir and pine are not common, for the
+purposes of flooring and building, making an extremely delicate and
+ornamental board.
+
+In travelling along I had asked the name of every strange tree, and so
+frequently had received the words white wood for answer, that I at
+last found it was a Canadian poplar, which grows in the western and
+London districts to an enormous size.
+
+The cotton wood is also another species of western poplar, and both
+would form a useful and an ornamental addition to our park scenery at
+home.
+
+The white wood, the cotton wood, and the yellow white wood, are used
+in this part of Canada for all building purposes, wherein pine is
+employed elsewhere, and the last named makes the best flooring. I
+should think, from its lightness and beauty, that it might be used
+with great advantage in Tunbridge ware.
+
+The quaking asp is also another poplar of western West Canada, and is
+a variety of the aspen.
+
+Here too I began to observe gigantic walnut-trees, from which such a
+large proportion of household furniture throughout Canada is
+manufactured, but regretted to find that it is much wasted in being
+split up into rails for fences by the farmers, on account of its
+durability. They are, however, beginning to be sensible of its value,
+for it is now largely exported to England and elsewhere. The size of
+the black walnut and of the cotton wood is inconceivable: of the
+latter curbs for the mouths of large wells are often made, by merely
+hollowing out the trunk.
+
+Vegetation in the western district is, in fact, extraordinary, and
+altogether it is undoubtedly the garden of Canada. Tobacco grows well
+in some portions of it, and is largely cultivated near the shores of
+Lake Erie. I believe most of the Havana cigars smoked in Canada,
+particularly at Montreal, are Canadian tobacco. So much the better;
+for if a man must put an enemy to his digestive organs into his
+mouth, it is better that that enemy should be the produce of the soil
+of which he is a native or denizen, as he derives some benefit from
+the consumption, although consumption of another sort may accrue.
+
+I have long and earnestly thought upon the subject of _the weed_, and
+have come to the conclusion that, as a necessary of life, it is about
+upon a par with opium. Men of the lower classes, I mean labouring
+people, who leave off drinking either from religious motives or from
+fear, usually take to smoking, and in general their constitutions are
+as much injured by the one as by the other. Cigar-smoking is a sort of
+devil-may-care imitation of the vulgar by gentlemen, and is no more
+requisite for health or amusement than whiskey, dice, or cards. It is
+amusing in the extreme to see old fellows aping extreme juvenility,
+and professing to smoke before breakfast; and it is ridiculous to see
+young gentlemen, very young and very green, cigar in mouth, fancying
+it very manly and very independent to imitate a rough, weather-beaten
+sailor or soldier, who, not being able to smoke a cigar, sticks to the
+pipe. That it stupifies is certain, that it is very vulgar is more
+certain, and that it injures health is more certain still. I wonder if
+Father Matthew smokes--almost all priests do: they have very little
+other solace.
+
+The approach to Chatham is very pretty. Young Thames, for I do not see
+why there should not be Young Thames as well as Young England, that
+most absurd of all D'Israelisms, looks enchanting in a country where
+lakes as flat on their shores as a pancake take the lead, and where
+rivers are creeks, and creeks are--nothing.
+
+We crossed a long whitewashed bridge, much out of repair, and saw an
+enormous American flag upon a very little American schooner, which had
+penetrated thus far into the bowels of the land. Bunting cannot be
+dear in the United States, and English Manchester must drive a pretty
+good trade in this article.
+
+The town of Chatham is situated on the banks of the Thames and of a
+large creek; and, being a Kentish man, I should have felt quite at
+home but for three things, videlicet, that enormous American flag; the
+name of the creek, which was Mac Gill or Mac something; and a
+thermometer pointing to somewhere about 101° Fahrenheit at nine a.m.
+Besides this, the town is a wooden one, and has a wooden little fort,
+which divides Scotland from Kent, or the river from the creek, nicely
+picketed in, and kept in the most perfect order by a worthy barrack
+serjeant, its sole tenant, whose room was hung round with prints of
+the Queen, Windsor Castle, the Duke of Wellington, and Lord
+Nelson--all in frames, and excellently well engraved, from the
+"Albion" newspaper.
+
+The Albion newspaper is no ordinary hebdomadal; it has disseminated
+loyalty throughout America for years, and, as a gift on each 1st of
+January, has been in the habit of publishing a print of large size,
+engraved in exceedingly brilliant style, which is presented to its
+subscribers. The Queen, the Duke, the Conqueror of the Seas, Walter
+Scott, and his Monument at Edinburgh, &c., are the fruits; and these
+plates would sell in England for at least half a guinea, or a guinea
+each.
+
+The Albion, moreover, gives extracts at length from the current
+literature of England; and thus science, art, politics, agriculture,
+find admirers and readers in every corner of the backwoods.
+
+Dr. Bartlett, its editor, at New York, deserves much more than this
+ephemeral encomium, for he has done more than all the orators upon
+loyalty in the Canadas towards keeping up a true British spirit in it.
+The Albion, in fact, in Canada is a _Times_ as far as influence and
+sound feeling go; and although, like that autocrat of newspapers, it
+differs often from the powers that be, John Bull's, Paddy's, and
+Sawney's real interests are at the bottom, and the bottom is based
+upon the imperishable rock of real liberty. It steers a medium course
+between the _extrême droit_ of the so-called Family Compact, and the
+_extrême gauche_ of the Baldwin opposition.
+
+Political feeling ran very high in the section of country through
+which we are travelling, both in the war of 1812 and in the rebellion
+of 1837; and, from the vicinity of the Western district to the United
+States, in both instances it was inferred by the American people that
+an easy conquest was certain. Proclamations followed upon
+proclamations, and attacks upon attacks, but the people loved their
+soil, and the invaders were driven back. So it will be again, if,
+unhappily, war should follow the mad courses now pursuing. The
+Canadians at heart are sound, and nowhere is this soundness more
+apparent than in the western district. It is not the mere name of
+liberty which can tempt thinking men to abandon the reality.
+
+It has fallen to my lot to be acquainted with many leaders of faction,
+both in the Old and in the New World, and I never yet knew one whose
+personal ambition or whose private hatred had not stimulated him to
+endeavour to overturn all order, all rule. The patriot, whose sole
+aim is to amend and not to destroy, is now-a-days a _rara avis_,
+particularly if he is needy. One has only to read with attention the
+details of the horrors of the French revolution to be fully impressed
+with this fact. Where was patriotism then? and was not Napoleon the
+real patriot when he said, "two or three six-pounders would have
+settled the _canaille_ of Paris!" I by no means advocate the _ultima
+ratio regum_ being resorted to in popular commotions, in saying this;
+but France would have been happier had the little corporal been
+permitted to use his artillerymen. It has often surprised me, in
+reading the history of the American revolution, assisted as the
+Americans were by the demoralised French of that day, that that
+revolution was so bloodless a one; a fact only to be accounted for by
+the agricultural and pastoral character of the people who engaged in
+it, and by the unwillingness, even at the last moment, to sever all
+ties between the parent and the child. The character of that
+population has greatly altered since; generations have been born on
+the soil, whose recollections of their progenitors across the Atlantic
+have dwindled to the smallest span; and the intermixture of races has
+since done everything but destroy all filial feeling, has in fact
+destroyed nearly all but the common language, whilst ultra-democracy
+has been steadily at work upon the young idea to inculcate hatred to
+monarchy, and, above all, to the limited monarchy of England. Will the
+result be less harmless than the Tea Triumph? The world, it is to be
+feared, will yet see two nations, the most free in the world, speaking
+the same tongue, educated from the same sources, embruing their hands
+in each other's blood, to build up a new universal system, impossible
+in its very nature, or to support that which the experience of ages
+has perfected, and which three estates so continually watch over each
+other to guard.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+  Intense Heat--Pigs, the Scavengers of Canada--Dutch Country--Moravian
+  Indians--Young Father Thames--Ague, a cure for Consumption--Wild
+  Horses--Immense Marsh.
+
+
+I never remember so hot a day as the 13th of July; people in England
+can have no idea of the heat in Canada, which they always figure to
+themselves as an hyperborean region. On our journey from Thamesville,
+when near Louisville, a neat hamlet by the wayside, in a beautiful
+country, settled by old Dutch families, on a fine bend of the Thames,
+we passed in the woods a dead horse, and found some friends at
+Chatham, who told us that it had dropped down from the intense heat.
+Those scavengers of Canada, the pigs, were like certain politic worms
+already busily at work on the carcase, in which indeed one had buried
+itself.
+
+In this Dutch country, you find the new road to Lake Erie, to the
+Rondeau from Chatham _graded_, or ready for planking, for twenty-six
+miles, and the new road to Windsor is also nearly finished; so that
+Chatham will now have an excellent land route to the Detroit river, as
+well as to Lake Erie; and as the Rondeau, a remarkable round littoral
+lake, is also converting into an excellent harbour, all this portion
+of Canada, the fairest as well as the most fertile, will progress
+amazingly.
+
+I saw the chief of the Moravian Indians near Thamesville, and had some
+conversation with him. He is a modest, middle-aged man, and rules over
+about two hundred and fifty well-behaved people. The government have
+given him two hundred acres of land in sight of the Moravian village,
+and there he dwells in patriarchal simplicity.
+
+Their spiritual and temporal concerns are under the supervision of the
+brethren at Bethlehem, the principal settlement of the Moravian
+fraternity in the United States; and they have a neat chapel and
+school, conducted with the decorum and good results for which that
+sect are noted.
+
+Petrolean springs and mineral oil fountains are frequent near this
+village, and the whole country here appears bituminous, the bed of the
+Thames being composed of shales highly impregnated with it. Salt is
+manufactured in small quantities by the Indians from brine-springs
+here.
+
+We saw the remarkable harvest of 1845 in all its glory on this route,
+as the Dutch farmers were every where at this early period cutting the
+wheat, and heard that on Willett's farm on the Thames it had been cut
+as early as the 10th of July.
+
+My _compagnon de voyage_ I had taken up in the morning, on account of
+the intelligence which he displayed, and in return for the ride he
+gave me much information.
+
+The banks of Young Father Thames, after leaving Chatham, and about it,
+are very low and flat, consequently, fever and ague are by no means
+rare visitors. He described the ague as being beyond a common Canada
+one; and, as he was of Yankee origin, the reader will readily
+understand his description of it. I asked him if he had ever had it.
+"Had it, I guess I have; I had it last fall, and it would have taken
+three fellows with such a fit as mine was to have made a shadow; why,
+my nose and ears were isinglass, and I shook the bedposts out of the
+perpendicular."
+
+I queried whether the country was subject to any other diseases, such
+as consumption.
+
+"If you have any friend with a consumption," said he, "send him to
+Thamesville; consumption would walk off slick as soon as he got the
+ague. No disorder is guilty of coming on before it, and it leaves none
+behind."
+
+We left Chatham in the steamboat Brothers for Windsor at three o'clock
+p.m., after having had a very good dinner at Captain Ebbert's inn, the
+Royal Exchange, which would do credit to any town.
+
+The Thames rolls for some miles, broad and deep, through a succession
+of corn-fields and meadows, with fine settlements, and, after passing
+through the great western marshes, enters Lake St. Clair, at twenty
+miles from Chatham. The rest of the route is across the lake by its
+southern shore, twenty miles more, and into the Detroit river for
+eleven miles to Windsor, on the Canada shore, and the city of Detroit,
+on the American side.
+
+The Thames keeps up its English character well, for it passes through
+the townships of Chatham, Dover, Harwich, Raleigh, and Tilbury, before
+it reaches Lake St. Clair, and then we coast Rochester, Maidstone, and
+Sandwich.
+
+The most curious thing on this route is the sinuosity of the river and
+the immense marsh, where the grasses are so luxuriant, that its
+appearance is that of the Pampas of South America, or of one unbroken
+sea of verdure. Nor is the grass, in its luxuriance, the only
+reminiscence of those vast meadows. Three hundred thousand acres,
+wholly unreclaimed on both sides of the river, are filled,
+particularly on the south side, with droves of wild horses and
+cattle--the former so numerous, that strings of them may be seen as
+far as the eye can reach; nor can you see the whole even near you from
+the deck of the vessel, as the grass is so high that sometimes they
+are hidden, and frequently you observe only their backs. They live
+here both in summer and in winter, but in very severe weather are said
+to go ashore, or into the higher lands, in search of the bark of the
+red elm. The owners brand them on the shoulder, and they are caught,
+when any are wanted, by snaring them with a noose.
+
+These horses are small, and usually dark-coloured; and a good one is
+valued at fifty dollars, or twelve pounds ten shillings currency,
+about ten pounds English money. Hardy, patient, and excellent little
+animals they are.
+
+I thought of the worthy lieutenant-governor of Upper Canada, Sir
+Francis Bond Head, when these wild horses of Canada first met my
+sight, as I saw, on a small scale, that which he has so vividly
+represented on so splendid a one in South America.
+
+It is said that this immense prairie may be drained by lowering the
+St. Clair Lake, and some attempts have been ineffectually made to
+cultivate small portions of it near the mouth of the river, where
+there is a lighthouse. There were two huts, and people residing in
+them, with small garden patches of potatoes and peas. Forty acres had
+been ploughed by a settler, Mr. Thompson, of Chatham; but, although
+the soil is excellent, such is the vigorous growth of the grass, and
+the difficulty of getting rid of its roots, that it soon recovered its
+ancient domain. In fact, the wind spreads the seed rapidly; and as the
+kind is chiefly the blue-joint, it is almost impossible ever to get
+rid of it, unless the water-level is lowered, which is not very
+probable at present.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+  Engineer-officers have little leisure for Book-making--Caution against
+  iced water--Lake St. Clair in a Thunderstorm--A
+  Steaming-dinner--Detroit river and town--Windsor--Sandwich--Yankee
+  Driver--Amherstburgh--French Canadian Politeness--Courtesy not
+  costly--Good effects of the practice of it illustrated--Naked
+  Indians--Origin of the Indians derived from Asia--Piratical attempt
+  and Monument at Amherstburgh--Canadians not disposed to turn
+  Yankees--Present state of public opinion in those Provinces--Policy of
+  the Government--Loyalty of the People.
+
+
+A person employed actively in public life is a very bad hand to engage
+in book-making. I often wonder whether this trifle, now intended as an
+offering to the reading people, will ever get into print. A little
+memorandum-book supplies the _matériel_, and a tolerable memory the
+embellishment. An engineer-officer, of all other functionaries, needs
+a memory; settling at one moment the expenditure of vast sums; at
+another, looking into the merits of a barrack damage worth sixpence;
+then, field-officer of the day inspecting guards--next, making
+experiments on the destructive effects of gunpowder, commencing with a
+percussion-pistol, and ending with a mine; buying land, taking
+altitudes of the sun and of the moon, examining a Gunter's chain or a
+theodolite, sitting as member of a court-martial, or of a board of
+respective officers, or counting the gold and silver in the military
+chest; superintending a fortification of the most intricate Vaubanism;
+regulating the dip of the needle, or the density of the earth; putting
+an awkward squad through the most approved manoeuvres; studying the
+integral calculus, or the catenarian curve; bothered by Newton or La
+Place; reading German or Spanish; exploring Oregon, or any other terra
+incognita; building docks, supervising railways, surveying Ireland,
+governing a colony, conducting a siege, leading a forlorn hope; an
+Indian chief, or commanding an army (both the latter rather rare);
+well may his motto be, as that of his corps is, _Ubique_. So, gentle
+reader, if there is wandering in the matter of these pages, put it
+down, not to the want of method or manners, but to the want of time;
+for, even in a dull Canadian winter, it is only by fits and snatches
+that the mysteries of book-making can be practised. The intervals are
+uncertain, the opportunities few. At one hour, one is drawing one's
+sword; at the next, in one of the two drawing-rooms, namely, that
+where ladies congregate, and that in which steel-pens chiefly shine.
+
+But it is necessary, nevertheless, to go on with any thing one
+seriously begins; and, although the "art and practique part" of
+book-making is, considering the requisite labour of bad penmanship,
+rather disgusting, yet the giving "a local habitation and a name" to
+the ideas floating on the sensorium is pleasant enough. It would be
+better if one had a steam-pen, for I always find my ideas much more
+rapid than consists with a goose quill. The unbending of the mind in a
+trifle like the present is also agreeable; and if the reader only
+likes it, as much as it amuses me and it whiles away graver cares, and
+the every-day monotony of a matter-of-fact existence, so much the
+better. An engineer-officer has no time to become a _blasé_, but every
+body else is not in his position, and thus this "little boke" may be
+taken up with the morning paper, and your man of the world may be
+induced to go so far as to say, "Wild horses in Canada! I never heard
+of them before; I will positively read a page or two more some rainy
+morning."
+
+_Blasé_, dear _blasé_, if ever you should muster up courage to go to
+Canada for relief, and want to see the wild horses, pray do not go
+towards the end of July; and if you do, don't drink iced water on
+board the Brothers, with the thermometer at 100° Fahrenheit, as I did,
+from very exhaustion. An old farmer on board cautioned me, but I was
+proud and thirsty, and did the deed. Sorely was it repented of; for,
+when we landed at night, I was seized with a violent pain in the heart
+region, accompanied by great uneasiness and lassitude; and, it was
+not until after lying down quietly for several hours that the symptoms
+abated. I was, however, very well the next day, but will not drink
+iced water in the dog-days any more in Canada West. Yet the Yankees do
+it with impunity.
+
+We entered Lake St. Clair in a thunderstorm at half-past five, but,
+fortunately for us, in this shallow lake, averaging only three fathoms
+or eighteen feet in depth, the storm, which in other places was a
+tornado, did nothing but frighten us at a distance.
+
+It tore large trees up by the roots, and unroofed houses not many
+miles off; and, had it caught us with so much top-hamper as the
+steamboat had, perhaps we should have sounded the lake _in propriá
+personá_, without being witnesses as to its actual mysteries
+afterwards.
+
+We steamed on, however, near the south shore for twenty miles, and
+entered the Detroit, or Narrow St. Lawrence, before the light of day
+had vanished, observing islands, &c., and arrived safely at Windsor,
+at Iron's Inn, at ten p.m., having experienced the pleasures of an
+adverse gale and intense heat.
+
+The dinner on board was by no means a luxury, for, although very good,
+the company was numerous, the cabin near the boiler, all the dishes
+smoking, the room low and small, and the thermometer as aforesaid on
+deck, so that we literally were steaming, for it must have been close
+to the boiling point.
+
+Thursday morning, the 14th of July, was as hot as ever; and if I
+could, I would not have crossed over to the United States, where the
+famous city of Detroit stared me in the face on the other side of the
+river, about as broad as the Thames just below bridge.
+
+It was, like all recent American cities, very staring and very
+juvenile, with large piles of brick buildings scattered amidst white
+painted wooden ones, and covered an immense space, with many churches,
+looking very fine at a distance, an immense crowd of very large,
+bright, white, and green, coarsely painted and loosely built
+steam-vessels at the wharfs, and small, dirty, steam ferry-boats,
+constantly plying to and from the British shore.
+
+Windsor is a small village, scattered, as most Canadian villages are,
+with a little barrack, in which a detachment of the Royal Canadian
+Rifle corps is stationed, to watch the frontier. The Americans are now
+building a large fort on the opposite side.
+
+I left Windsor at nine a.m., in a light waggon and pair, and rolled
+along the bank of the river to Sandwich, the county or district town,
+two miles from Windsor, opposite to which the Americans are building a
+fortification of some size, but apparently only an extensive
+earth-work.
+
+It is a very pleasant drive along the banks of the Straitened River,
+or Detroit, close to the water, and occasionally in it, to refresh the
+horses. The population, chiefly French Canadians and Indians, occupy
+the roadside in detached farms; the Canadian huts and houses being, as
+in Lower Canada, invariably whitewashed and planted at short
+intervals.
+
+We saw the Indians both industrious and idle: some were hoeing maize,
+others harvesting wheat, and the _habitants_ were also very busy in
+the fields.
+
+The idle Indians, the most numerous, were lounging along the banks,
+under the shade of melancholy boughs, as naked as they were born,
+bathing, smoking, or making baskets. In the intense heat I envied
+them, and thought of the days of Paradise when tailors were not.
+
+We stopped in this intense heat at Maître Samondon's tavern, having
+passed Sandwich, which has church, chapel, jail, and court-house, and
+is plentifully inhabited by French, whose domiciles evidently date
+from its first settlement. I saw some of the largest pear-trees here
+that I had ever seen; they were as big as good-sized walnut-trees in
+England.
+
+We had a Yankee driver, a young fellow, whose ease and good-temper
+amused me very much. He had good horses, drove well, and had been in
+his time all sorts of things; the last trade, that of a mail-driver on
+the opposite shores, where, he said, the republic were going ahead
+fast, for they were copying Europeans, and had taken to robbing the
+mail by way of raising the wind; so that, in some place he mentioned
+in Pennsylvania, it was a service of danger to drive, for they fired
+out of the Bush and killed the horses occasionally. He told us several
+feats of his own against these robbers, but concluded by guessing that
+he should not have to carry a six-barrel Colt's revolver in Canaday;
+for "them French" never robbed mails.
+
+He drove us to Amherstburgh, through a rich and beautiful grain
+country, in four hours, eighteen miles, and we stopped an hour at
+Samondon's, where nothing but French was spoken, and a long discourse
+held upon the crops and the state of the country. As I had an orderly
+with me, and as red coats had not been seen in that part of the world
+since the rebellion, we caused some emotion and conversation on the
+road. A very old, garrulous French Canadian, who was smoking his pipe
+in the "kitchen and parlour and hall," came and sat by me, and, after
+beating about the bush a long time with all the "_politesse
+possible_," at length asked me who I was, and if the army was coming
+back among them. I told him who I was, a lieutenant-colonel of
+engineers; and the old Jean Jacques, after looking at me a minute or
+so, got up and fetched a small glass of whiskey and water, and with
+the best grace in the world presented it, with a cigar, taking another
+of both himself, and, touching his glass to mine in true French style,
+bowed and said, "_A votre santé, mon colonel_; you have got a devilish
+good place of it!" The French Canadians on the Detroit river were all
+loyal during the rebellion, and this old farmer was a sample of them.
+
+When the horses were fed, and I had, as is customary, treated the
+driver, we departed amidst the pleasing sounds of _Bien obligé, bon
+voyage_. If they had cheated me, I should have been content, so much
+is politeness worth; and the Canadian French peasant is a primitive
+being, and as polite as a baron of the _ancien régime_. It was quite
+refreshing in such hot weather to meet with a little civilization,
+after being occasionally witness to the reverse from the newest people
+in the world. _Il coute si peu._
+
+How shocking, a sensitive _parvenu_ will say, to sit down in a common
+kitchen, and drink a glass of whiskey and water with peasants! It puts
+me in mind of a very fine young lady, whose grandfather had been a
+butcher, and her father none of the richest; who, being met in the
+streets with some threadpapers or small package of lace in her hand
+early on a cold day, said, to a gentleman who stopped to ask her how
+she did, "I am very well, I thank you; but this parcel makes my hand
+so cold!" Or, for a still finer illustration, I knew a _nouvelle
+riche_ who, not being addressed by a tradesman in a little town in his
+bill by a factitious title, to which she imagined that she had a
+right, sent back his letter open to the post-office, with an
+intimation to the postmaster that letters so improperly addressed
+would not be received.
+
+I have always perceived that a fuss about family and noble
+connections betrays either that the fuss-maker is naturally a vulgar
+soul, or that it is deemed necessary, from an excess of weakness, to
+support a position of an equivocal nature. A gentleman never derogates
+from his true position, let him be placed in whatever circumstances he
+may; and an over-fastidious traveller, or a pretender to great
+importance in a new country, is the most foolish of all foolish folks.
+
+I remember travelling once in the wild Bush with a person, who, from
+long-established military habits of command, thought that he could
+order everything as he liked. We were benighted at a farm-house, where
+the old lady proprietress eked out her livelihood by receiving casual
+visitors, but disdained the thought of "keeping tavern," as it is
+called, in the backwoods of Canada West. He ordered, rather
+peremptorily, supper and beds for two--it would have been better that
+he had ordered pistols and coffee for the same number, for then the
+dame would have looked upon him as simply mad. No notice whatever was
+taken of his demands, but I saw her choler rising; fortunately, I knew
+her character. We were many miles from any habitation: and the horses
+jaded out as well as ourselves; so I took no notice either; but,
+observing the dame take her seat in the old-fashioned ample chimney, I
+took another opposite to her, and, observing her commence lighting her
+pipe, asked her for one, and we puffed out volumes of smoke--those
+were my smoking days--for a long time at each other in perfect
+silence. At last, I broke the ice.
+
+"Mrs. Craig, your tobacco is bad; next time I come by, I will bring
+you some excellent."--A gracious nod!--We smoked on, and every now and
+then she condescended to speak upon indifferent subjects. At last, she
+got up and went into another room. I followed her; for I saw she
+wanted to speak to me without my friend.--"Who is that man?" quoth the
+dame.--"Colonel So and so," responded I.--"I don't care whether he be
+a colonel or a general; all I can say is, that he has got no manners;
+and the devil a supper or a bed shall he get here!"--"Oh, my good
+lady," said I, "he is not used to travel in the Bush, and is a
+stranger, and not over-young, as you see; besides, he is regularly
+tired out. Let me give him half my supper, and perhaps he can sleep in
+the chimney-corner. I don't care about a bed myself; pine branches
+will do for me, and an old buffalo robe, which I have in the waggon."
+
+She said nothing, but, returning to the kitchen, which is the common
+reception-room in country places, put a few eggs into the pot over the
+fire, and got the tea-pot. I saw several fine hams hanging to the
+rafters, so I took one down, got a knife, and was about to cut some
+slices to broil, when she stopped me. "You haven't got the best," says
+the old dame; "I shall cut you one myself." And so she did, spread the
+cloth, set two tea-cups, &c., and a capital supper we had, for a fine
+fowl was spitchcocked.
+
+After supper, Mother Craig asked me to smoke another pipe with her and
+her good man, who was lame and unable to work, and some of her sons,
+&c. came in from the fields. I missed her soon afterwards; but, after
+a quarter of an hour, she came in again, whispered that she wanted me,
+and I followed her. "It is time," said the dame, "for you to go to
+bed; for you must be up by candlelight to-morrow morning, as your
+journey is a long one; see if this will do." In an inner chamber were
+two beds; one a feather bed, the other a pine-branch one, with clean
+blankets, snow-white sheets, a night-cap of the best, water, &c.
+"That's your bed," said Mrs. Craig; "the other is for the colonel, as
+you call him. Good night; I will call you in the morning--take care,
+and put your candle out." I laughed in my sleeve, went out, called the
+colonel, who would have been otherwise left in the dark, for the
+family soon retired for the night, and I need not say gave him the
+best bed, as he thought; the best, however, I kept myself, for a bed
+of fresh pine shoots to a weary traveller in Canada is better than all
+the feather beds in the world, particularly in the New World.
+
+So much for life in the Bush; and I was then not quite so old as at
+present; but, even in youth, experience had taught me the utility of
+taking the world easy. My friend the colonel, next morning, after a
+sound sleep, said, "Whenever I am obliged to travel in the Bush, I
+wish you may be with me;" and old mother Craig, who is now no longer
+in this world, thought the next morning, as she afterwards said, that,
+after all, the colonel was not so bad as she had imagined.
+
+This is, for one may as well deprecate a little in talking about
+fastidiousness, not told by way of evincing superior knowledge of the
+world, but just to show you, gentle or simple reader, whichever you
+may be, that, in a sentimental journey through Canada, you must
+accommodate yourself a little to the manners and customs of the
+population, if you expect to get along quietly, and to form any just
+opinion of the country.
+
+When we saw the naked Indians under the wide-spreading trees,
+literally taking their ease, _sub tegmine fagi_, I thought that, if a
+Cockney could be transported in a balloon from Temple Bar right down
+here, what a barbarous land he would say Canada was, and his note-book
+would run thus: "Landed on the banks of a river twice as broad as the
+Thames, and saw the inhabitants burnt brown, and stark naked, under
+the trees. Oh, fie!"
+
+Really, however, there is nothing very startling in seeing a naked
+Indian, whether it is that the bronze colour of his red skin looks so
+artificial, or that white flesh is so rarely observed, except in
+fashionable ball-rooms, I do not know; but I do know that I should
+most unequivocally feel queer, if I suddenly saw twenty or thirty
+naked Cockneys squatting and smoking under the trees on the banks of
+the Serpentine River, even if the thermometer was at 110° at the
+moment. Such is custom. A naked Indian looks natural, and a naked
+Cockney would look _contra bonos mores_, to say the least of it.
+
+The Indian, whether dressed or undressed, is a modest man--not so
+always the Cockney; and there is an air of grandeur and natural
+freedom about the savage, which civilized man wants, or which modern
+coats, waistcoats, trowsers, and hats, are unquestionably not
+calculated to inspire.
+
+Look at the statue of a Roman Consul, or at Apollo Belvidere, in his
+scanty clothing, and then you will understand what I mean; or, what is
+better, look at your grandmother's picture, with her hair powdered,
+stomacher, and farthingale, and then at the Venus de Medicis, and you
+will know better, if you are a man of taste. How the American ladies,
+who do not admit such words as _naked_ or _legs_ into their
+vocabulary, there being an especial act of Congress forbidding females
+to use them, get over the difficulty of Indians in their war costume,
+has puzzled me not a little. To draw a curtain before an Indian chief
+would be rather a venturous affair, as he is a little sensitive; and,
+when well painted, thinks himself extremely _comme il faut_, and very
+well dressed. But _de gustibus non est disputandum_, and so forth.
+
+It is a queer country, this Amherstburgh country: French Canadians as
+primitive as Père Adam and Mère Eve; Indians of the old stock and of
+the new stock, that is to say, very few of the former, but a good many
+of the latter; owning both to French and to British half parentage;
+negroes in abundance; runaway slaves and their descendants, a mixture
+of all three; and plenty of loafers from the United States. In fact,
+it would seem as though Shem, Ham, and Japhet, had all representatives
+here, for Europeans and Americans of every possible caste are
+exhibited along this frontier, only I did not either see or hear of an
+Israelite; but some antiquarians contend that the Indians are a
+portion of the lost tribes. Their Asiatic origin is more decided. The
+feather of an eagle stuck in the warrior's hair is nothing more than
+the peacock's plume in a Tartar's bonnet. Then there is the
+patriarchal mode of government in the nations. Polybius says that the
+Carthaginians (Africans, by the way) scalped their enemies. The
+Kalmucks pluck out their beards, so do the Indians. The
+Pottawotamies, and most of the more savage tribes, like the Asiatics,
+look upon women as inferior in the scale of creation. White is a
+sacred colour, as in many parts of Asia. An Indian never eats with his
+guest, but serves him. Their nomadic life, their choice of war-chiefs,
+the difficulty of pronouncing labials, the use of the battleaxe or
+tomahawk, which is absolutely Tartarian, the worship of the Good and
+the Evil Spirit, form other points of resemblance. West says, that the
+emblems of the Indian nations are similar to those of the Israelitish
+tribes, and the Tartars fight under _totems_ of the wolf, the snake,
+the bear, &c., in the same way. The belief in a future state and in
+transmigration is similar, and the use of charms or amulets common to
+both Asiatics and Indians of America. The cross-legged sitting
+posture, and the Tartarian contour of the face and head, are very
+remarkable. I once saw an Indian chief, whose countenance was
+perfectly and purely Asiatic, and that of the Ganges rather than
+Mongolian. The shaven crown and single lock of hair are Asiatic and
+Chinese; and tattooing is common to both sides of the Pacific. A
+thousand other instances may be cited; but the strongest proof of all
+is the discovery of vast ruins in Mexico, which, as it is well known,
+contain indubitable proofs of a common origin of the people who built
+them with the Asiatics, and these ruins extend in a line through that
+country from Guatemala as far almost as the Colombia River; whilst
+South America produces edifices, not so extraordinary perhaps, but
+equally evincing that the worshippers of the Sun might claim descent
+from the Guebres and the Parsees.
+
+But to pursue this subject would lead me into a research which would
+consume both time and paper, and can only be adequately entered upon
+with great leisure. I have collected much upon this interesting
+subject, and, having bestowed great attention upon it, have not much
+doubt upon the matter.
+
+Singular discoveries are occasionally made in opening the Canadian
+forests, though it would seem that ancient civilization had been
+chiefly confined to the western shores of the Andean chain, exclusive
+of Mexico only. In a former volume was described a vase of Etruscan
+shape, which was discovered during the operations of the Canada
+Company, near the shores of Lake Huron, and vast quantities of broken
+pottery, of beautiful forms, are often turned up by the plough. I have
+a specimen, of large size, of an emerald green glassy substance, which
+was unfortunately broken when sent to me, but described as presenting
+a regular polygonal figure: two of the faces, measuring some inches,
+are yet perfect. It is a work of art, and was found in the virgin
+forest in digging.
+
+But we are at Amherstburgh, otherwise called Malden, a small town of
+two parallel streets and divergencies, famous for a miserable fort,
+for Negroes, Indians, fine straw hats, wild turkeys, rattlesnakes, and
+loyalty.
+
+I shall never forget the heat of this place, having had the exceeding
+luxury of a sitting-room to myself, quite large enough to turn round
+in, with one door and one window, and a bed-closet off it, without the
+latter. If ever a mortal was fried without a gridiron, it was the
+inhabitant of that bed-closet; and right glad was I the next day to
+get into a gallant row-boat, belonging to the commandant of the
+Canadian riflemen, rowed by a gallant crew, and take the air on the
+River Detroit, as well as the breezes on Bois Blanc Island. Bois
+blanc, in Western Canadian parlance, is the white wood tree, with
+which this island formerly abounded, and now converted into several
+blockhouses for its defence.
+
+Amherstburgh was the scene of piratical exploit during the rebellion,
+and bravely did the militia beat off the _soi-disant+ general and his
+sympathizing vagabond patriots; but this is a page of Canadian history
+for hereafter, and need not be repeated here. The sufferers have had a
+monument erected to their memory in these words by the spirited
+inhabitants:--
+
+                 This Monument is erected by
+               the Inhabitants of Amherstburgh,
+                        in memory of
+
+         Thomas Mac Cartan, Samuel Holmes, Edwin Millar,
+         Thomas Symonds, of H.M. 32nd Regiment of Foot, and
+         of Thomas Parish, of the St. Thomas Volunteer
+         Cavalry, who gloriously fell in repelling a band of
+         Brigands from Pelé Island, on the 3rd March, 1838.
+
+Many of those who escaped from this villanous aggression upon a people
+at peace with the United States afterwards lost their lives from
+exposure to cold at such a season, the coldest portion of a Canadian
+winter, and misery and distress were brought home to the bosom of many
+a sorrowing family.
+
+The annexation of Canada was contemplated by these hordes of
+semi-barbarians, the offscouring of society, bred in bar-rooms. Alas!
+for poor human nature, should this scum ever overlay the surface of
+American freedom! It would indeed be the nightmare of intellect, the
+incubus of morality. A commonwealth well managed may be a decent
+government for an honest man to exist under, but a _loaferism_, to use
+a Yankee term, would indeed be frightful. The recklessness of life
+among the least civilized portions of the States is quite sufficient
+already, without its assuming a power and a place.
+
+That there is at present but little prospect for American dominion
+taking root in Canada, is evident to every person well acquainted with
+the country, although dislike to British rule and "the baneful
+domination" is also obvious enough among a large class of inhabitants,
+who are swayed by a small portion of the press, and by disappointed
+speculators in politics--men who have lost high offices, for which
+they were never fitted, either by capacity or connection with the best
+interests of the people, and who allied themselves to the French
+Canadian party merely to accomplish their own ends.
+
+The real substance, or, as Cobbett called it, the bone and marrow of
+Canada, is not composed of needy politicians or of reckless
+adventurers, caring not whether they plunge their adopted country into
+all the horrors of revolution or of anarchy.
+
+A man possessing a few hundred acres of land, with every comfort
+about him, paying no taxes but those for the improvement of his
+property, feeling the government rein only as a salutary check to
+lawlessness, and looking stedfastly abroad, is not very likely, for
+abstract notions of right and equality, to sacrifice reality, or to
+suppose that Mr. Baldwin, amiable as he is, is infallible: whilst Mr.
+Baldwin himself, the ostensible, but not the real leader of the
+out-and-out reformers, will pause before he even dreams of alienating
+the country in which he, from being a very poor man originally, has,
+through the industry and talent of his father, and a fortuitous train
+of circumstances, connected with the rise and progress of the city of
+Toronto, and the rise of the price of land as Canada advances in
+population and wealth, become a great land-holder.
+
+I have no idea that this Corypheus of Canadian reform has the most
+remote idea of annexing Canada to the United States, or that he is
+mentally fighting for anything more than an Utopia similar to that of
+O'Connell in Ireland. In short, the grand struggle of the radical
+reform party of Upper Canada has been, and for which they joined the
+French Canadian party, to have a repeal of the union as far as control
+over the provincial funds and offices exists, on the side of England.
+
+They would have no objection to see a British prince on the Canadian
+throne, or a British viceroy sitting at the council board of Montreal,
+but they want to be governed without the intervention of the colonial
+office; and perhaps, rather than not have the loaves and fishes at
+their own entire disposal, they would in the end go so far as to
+desire entire separation from the Mother Country, and seek the armed
+protection of that enormous power which is so rapidly rising into
+notice on their borders.
+
+But then they calculate--for there is a good sprinkling of Jonathanism
+in their ranks--that that enormous power is grasping at too much
+already, defying the whole world, and seeking to establish a perfectly
+despotic dominion itself over the whole continent which Columbus and
+Cabot discovered, and not excluding the archipelago of the Western
+Indies.
+
+They live too near the littorale of the Republic, or rather the
+democracy of America, not to see hourly the effects of Lynch law and
+mob rule; and, however some of the most daring or reckless among them
+may occasionally employ that very mob rule to intimidate and carry
+elections, they very well know that the peaceable inhabitants of both
+Canadas are too respectable and too numerous to permit such courses to
+arrive at a head. Once rouse the yeomanry of Canada West, and their
+energies would soon manifest themselves in truly British honesty and
+British feeling. John Bull is not enamoured of the tender mercies of
+canallers and loafers, and the French Canadian peasantry and small
+farmers are innocent of the desire to imitate the heroes of
+Poissardism.
+
+No person in public life can judge better of the feelings of the
+people as a mass, in Canada, than those who have commanded large
+bodies of the militia. Put the query to any officer in the army who
+has had such a charge, and the universal answer will be: "The militia
+of Canada are loyal to Britain, without vapouring or boasting of that
+loyalty; for they are not by natural constitution a very speaking
+race, or given at every moment to magnify; but they will fight, should
+need be, for Victoria, her crown, and dignity."
+
+It may be said that an officer in the army is not the best judge of
+the feelings of the people, as they would not express them in his
+presence; but when an officer has been intimately mingled with them by
+such events as those of the troubles of 1837 and 1838, and has so long
+known the country, the case is altered; he comes to have a personal as
+well as a general knowledge of all ranks, degrees, and classes, and
+can weigh the ultimate objects of popular expression. I have no
+hesitation in saying, possessed as I have been of this knowledge, that
+_the people_ of Canada have not a desire to become independent now,
+any more than they have a desire to be annexed to and fraternize with
+the United States.
+
+Many years ago, on my first visit to Canada, in 1826, when such a
+thing as expressions of disloyalty was almost unknown, and long before
+Mackenzie's folly, I remember being struck with the speech at a
+private dinner party of a person who has since held high office,
+respecting the independence of Canada: he observed that it must
+ultimately be brought about. The colony then was in its mere infancy,
+and this person no doubt had dreams of glory, although in outward life
+he was one of the most uncompromising of the colonial ultra-tories.
+
+Just before the rebellion broke out, I was conversing with another
+person, now no more, of a similar stamp, but possessing much more
+influence, who began to be alarmed for his extensive lands, all of
+which he had obtained by grants from the Crown, and he feared that the
+time specified by the first-mentioned person had arrived. His
+observations to me were revelations of an astounding nature; for he
+thought that we were too near a republic to continue long under a
+monarchy, and that, in fact, absurd titles, such as those borne by the
+then governor, Sir Francis Head, alluding to his being merely a knight
+bachelor, were likely to create contempt in Canada, instead of
+affection. My friend, who, like the first-mentioned, was rather weak,
+although acute enough when self-interest was concerned, was evidently
+casting about in his mind's eye for a new order of things, in which to
+secure _his_ property and _his_ official influence.
+
+Lord Sydenham and Lord Durham saw and knew a great deal of this
+vacillation among all parties in Canada. They saw that the great game
+of the leaders was office, office, office; and when Lord Metcalfe had
+had sufficient time to discover the real state of the country, he saw
+it too. Hence arose the absolute necessity for removing the seat of
+government from Toronto to Kingston. The ultra-tories were just as
+troublesome as the ultra-levellers, and it was requisite to neutralize
+both, by getting out of the sphere of their hourly influence. The
+inhabitants of Kingston, a naval and military town, whose revenues had
+been chiefly derived from those sources, were loyal, without
+considering it of the utmost consequence that their loyalty should
+form the basis of every government, or that the governor was not to
+open his mouth, or use his pen, unless by permission. They were the
+true medium party.
+
+Then arose the desire to do justice to the Gallo-Canadians, who had
+before been wholly neglected, and looked upon as too insignificant to
+have any voice in public affairs, whilst they were mistrusted also,
+owing to the Papineau demonstration.
+
+The British government, superior to all these petty colonial
+interests, saw at once that to ensure loyalty it was only proper to
+administer justice impartially to all creeds and to all classes, and
+that the French Canadians, whose numbers were at least equal to the
+British Canadians, had a positive right to be heard and a positive
+claim to be equitably treated.
+
+There was no actual innate desire in the Canadian mind to shake off
+the British domination for that of the democracy of the United States.
+An absurd notion had gathered strength in 1837 that they were at last
+powerful enough to set up for themselves, to constitute _la Nation
+Canadienne_, forgetting that Great Britain could swallow them up at a
+mouthful, and that the Americans would, if John Bull did not. The
+proclamation of General Nelson or Brown, or some such patriot, set the
+affair in its true point of view. No longer any religion was to be
+predominant; the feudal laws were to be abolished; and the celebrated
+ninety-two resolutions, which had cost Papineau and his legion so much
+care and anxiety, were swept away as if they were dust. A Jack Cade
+had started up, whose laws were to be administered at the point of the
+bayonet.
+
+The eyes of the leading French Canadians, gentlemen of education, were
+soon opened, and the vision of glory evaporated into thin air. But
+still they felt themselves oppressed, they enjoyed not the coveted
+rights of subjects of England; and accordingly the successive
+governments of Lord Durham, Lord Sydenham, and Sir Charles Bagot were
+eras of political struggles to obtain it.
+
+Lord Metcalfe had had experience in colonies of long standing, had
+been successful, bore the character of a just, patient, and decided
+man, and had wealth enough to cause his independence to be respected.
+
+The fight for supremacy between the ultra-tory and ultra-radical
+parties became fiercer and more fierce, and it was dolefully augured
+that the province was lost to England, as he would not yield to the
+haughty demands of the first, nor to the threats and menaces of the
+latter.
+
+When the Baldwin ministry was dismissed, even cautious people were
+heard to say, that new troubles were at hand; and the ultra-tories did
+not scruple to avow that the country was in danger, unless they were
+readmitted to power.
+
+Placed between these belligerents, Lord Metcalfe, who kept his own
+counsel to the last secret and undivulged, steered a course which has
+hitherto worked well. He chose a medium party, and removed the seat of
+government to Montreal, not in the heart of French Canada, as it is
+supposed in England, but within a few miles of British Canada and
+close to the eastern townships, where a British population is
+dominant, whilst in the city itself British interests surpass all
+others; it being the heart and lungs of the Canadian mercantile world,
+whilst it has the advantage of easy steam communication with Quebec,
+the seat of military power, and with Upper Canada, both by the St.
+Lawrence and the Rideau Canals.
+
+The French, no longer neglected and seeing the seat of government
+permanently located in their country, seeing also that they had been
+admitted to share power and office, have been tranquillized; and the
+result of the elections placed Lord Metcalfe comparatively at ease,
+and rendered the task of his successor less onerous. Had his health
+been spared, the blessing of his wise rule would long have been felt.
+He is deeply and universally regretted throughout Canada.
+
+As a proof of the loyalty of the Canadians, it is right to mention
+that, whilst I am penning these pages, the press is teeming with calls
+to the volunteers and militia to sustain Britain in the Oregon war;
+and, because the militia is not prematurely called out, the
+administrator of the government is attacked on all sides. Whilst I am
+writing, the Hibernian Society, in an immense Roman Catholic
+procession, passes by. There are four banners. The first is St.
+Patrick, the second Queen Victoria, the third Father Matthew, the
+fourth the glorious Union flag. Reader, it is the 17th of March, St.
+Patrick's Day, and the band plays God save the Queen!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+  The Thames Steamer--Torrid Night--"The Lady that helped" and her
+  Stays--Port Stanley--Buffalo City--Its Commercial
+  Prosperity--Newspaper Advertisements--Hatred to England and
+  encouragement of Desertion--General Crispianus--Lake Erie in a
+  rage--Benjamin Lett--Auburn Penitentiary--Crime and Vice in the
+  Canadas--Independence of Servants--Penitentiaries unfit for juvenile
+  offenders--Inefficiency of the Police--Insolence of
+  Cabmen--Carters--English rule of the road reversed--Return to Toronto.
+
+
+The heat at Amherstburgh was so desiccating, that I was glad to leave
+even my urbane host, serjeant-major as he had been of a royal
+regiment, and his crowded though clean and comfortable inn, for the
+spacious deck of the splendid Canadian steamer Thames, Captain Van
+Allan, on board of which was to be enjoyed the absolute luxury of a
+spacious state-room upon deck. Alas for the roomy state-room! even in
+its commodious berth, rest could not be enjoyed, for the night was a
+torrid one; nothing in the Western Indies could beat it, only there
+was no yellow fever, although plenty of yellow countenances presented
+themselves on the shoulders of Americans from the South, and coloured
+waiters; but that which actually at last put me in a fever was the
+sight of the female attendant of the ladies' cabin, whose form was so
+buckled up in stays of the most rigid order, that the heat,
+American-bred as she was, appeared to have rendered her a Niobe, for
+she was tall and as straight as a poplar-tree, and much of the colour
+of its inner rind. Oh! the heat, the intolerable heat, on Lake Erie
+that night! The worthy captain declared he had never experienced its
+like, and that as for rest it was impracticable. If the lady's-maid,
+or "the lady that helped" in the ladies' cabin, as she is called in
+American boats, kept her stays on that night, Heaven help her! She
+must have been in a greater state of despair than the man in armour
+on Lord Mayor's day, who requires to go to bed after a warm bath, the
+moment he takes his stays off.
+
+But we steamed on, and the boilers themselves were not a whit hotter
+than we were. How the stokers stood it is a marvel to this day. I
+suffered dreadfully with the prickly heat, as if in the West Indies.
+
+The Thames is the most splendid boat on Lake Erie, and that is saying
+a good deal; for the Americans have so many, and several so much
+larger than this Britisher, that it is a matter of surprise that she
+should beat them all in convenience, build, and speed; and yet,
+according to received opinion, the Yankee builders of vessels excel us
+"by a long chalk," to use a Yankee figure of speech. It is so,
+however, and is so acknowledged on both sides of the water, that the
+Thames, Captain Van Allan, takes the shine out of them all.
+
+We started from Amherstburgh, where she called on her way from
+Detroit, and left Bullock's inn for the steamer which was close at
+hand, at nine o'clock p.m., and got under steam and travelled all
+night at a most rapid rate, nor stopped until eight a.m., the next
+morning, at Port Stanley, formerly called Kettle Creek, a small
+village with a fine parallel pier harbour, which, unlike Amherstburgh,
+has thriven amazingly during the past seven years, before which I
+recollect it to have consisted of about three or four houses. It is
+now a thriving village; and, as it has a planked road reaching far
+into the interior, is every day going ahead. The plank road leads to
+London, twenty-six miles distant. The piers of this artificial harbour
+are much too narrow, consequently it is dangerous to approach in
+stormy weather; and, as Lake Erie is a very turbulent little ocean,
+they must be modified some day or other, whenever the Board of Works
+is rich enough.
+
+We took in several passengers here, mostly Americans touring, and the
+vessel was now full, for we had a large proportion of the same class
+from Detroit. They were chiefly people from the hotter regions of the
+States, and resembled each other remarkably; sallow, sharp-angled,
+acute-looking physiognomies: the men tall and loosely jointed; the
+women prematurely old, and not very handsome. They were quiet and
+respectable in their manners and demeanour; in fact, too quiet,
+contrasting strongly in this respect with the real, genuine Yankee.
+
+We reached Buffalo at seven in the evening, after encountering a
+thunderstorm, which appeared to be very severe towards the shores of
+the American side of Lake Erie.
+
+Such a mob as poured on board the vessel, after she had with much
+difficulty threaded the inconvenient, narrow, muddy creek on which
+Buffalo is located, I never beheld before: blacks and whites, browns
+and yellows, cabmen and carters, porters and tavern-scouts,
+pickpockets and free and enlightened citizens.
+
+How the passengers got their baggage conveyed to their hotels, or
+dwellings, is beyond my art to imagine. Insolent and daring, if these
+be a pattern mob, Heaven defend us Britishers from democracy! for
+freedom reigns at Buffalo in a pattern of the newest, which the
+seldomer copied the better. But one must not judge the money-getting
+citizens of this fine town by the scenes in the Wapping part of it;
+for, if one did, it would necessarily be said that they were not an
+enviable race.
+
+Buffalo, a mere wooden village, burnt during the war of 1812, is now a
+large and flourishing city, containing 30,000 inhabitants; and, if it
+had a good harbour, would soon rival New York. To prove this, I beg
+the reader to take the trouble to peruse the accompanying statement of
+the present commerce of that city, from the Buffalo Commercial
+Advertiser of January 10, 1846, by which it will be seen that in the
+year 1845 the increase of vessels trading with it was enormous, and
+that by the Welland Canal, or an American ship canal, round the Falls
+of Niagara, they already contemplate a direct trade with Europe in
+British bottoms.
+
+"There has been a prodigious accession to the Lake marine during the
+past season--no less than sixty vessels, whose aggregate tonnage is
+over 13,000 tons, and at an outlay of 825,000 dollars. Had we not the
+evidence before us, the assertion would stagger belief.
+
+"More than usual pains were taken by us, during the past season, to
+procure information on this head and others touching thereto, the
+result of which we now present in our annual list of new vessels. This
+season we have ventured beyond the immediate margin of Lake Erie, and
+those other broad lakes beyond, to Lake Ontario, a knowledge of whose
+marine is now deemed essential to a thorough understanding of our lake
+matters.
+
+NUMBER, TONNAGE, AND ESTIMATED COST OF NEW VESSELS
+BUILT IN 1845, FROM THIS CITY WESTWARD TO CHICAGO.
+
+
+Name.            Class.    Tons.     Where built.             Dollars.
+Niagara         steamer   1,075      Buffalo                    95,000
+Oregon              ...     781      Newport, Michigan          55,000
+Boston              ...     775      Detroit                    55,000
+Superior            ...     567      Perrysburg, O.             45,000
+Troy                ...     547      Maumee City, O.            40,000
+London              ...     456      Chippewa, C. W.            46,000
+Helen Strong        ...     253      Monroe, Michigan           22,000
+John Owen           ...     205      Truago,   do.              20,000
+Romeo               ...     180      Detroit,  do.              12,000
+Enterprise          ...     100      Green Bay, W. T.            8,000
+Empire, 2nd     steamer     100      Grand Rapids, Mic.          8,000
+Algomah             ...     100      St. Joseph River, do.       8,000
+Pilot               ...      80      Union City,       do.       5,000
+Princeton     propeller     456      Perrysburg, O.             40,000
+Oregon              ...     313      Cleveland, O.              18,000
+Phoenix           ...     305          ditto                  22,000
+Detroit             ...     290      Detroit, Michigan          15,000
+Odd Fellow         brig     225      Cleveland, O.               9,000
+Enterprise          ...     267      Grand Rapids, Mich.         8,000
+Wing-and-wing  schooner     228      Cleveland, O.               9,000
+Magnolia            ...     200      Charlestown, O.             2,000
+Scotland            ...     300      Perrysburg, O.              8,000
+J. Y. Seammon       ...     134      Chicago, Ill.               8,000
+Napoleon            ...     250      Sault Ste Marie             8,000
+Freeman             ...     190      Charleston, O.              7,500
+Eagle               ...     180      Sandusky, O.                7,000
+Bonesteel           ...     150      Milwaukie, W. T.            6,000
+Sheppardson         ...     130          ditto                   5,000
+Rockwell            ...     120          ditto                   5,000
+E. Henderson        ...     110          ditto                   4,500
+Rainbow             ...     117      Sheboygan                   4,000
+C. Howard           ...     103      Huron, O.                   4,000
+J. Irwin            ...     101      Cleveland, O.               4,000
+Avenger             ...      78      Cottesville, Michigan       3,000
+Flying Dutchman     ...      74      Madison, O.                 4,000
+Cadet               ...      72      Cleveland, O.               3,500
+W. A. Adair         ...      61          ditto                   3,000
+Elbe                ...      57          ditto                   3,000
+Planet              ...      24          ditto                   3,000
+Albany              ...     148      Raised and re-rigged        2,503
+Pilot               ...      50      Milwaukie, W. T.            2,500
+Mary Anne      schooner      60      Milwaukie, W. T.            1,000
+Marinda             ...      60      Lexington, Michigan         3,000
+Sparrow             ...      50      Chora,    ditto             2,500
+Big B.              ...      60      18 mile creek,              2,500
+Hard Times          ...      45          ditto                   1,500
+Friendship        sloop      45      Sheboygan, W. T.            2,000
+Buffalo             ...      30      New Buffalo, Mich.          1,000
+                         ------                                -------
+  Total, 48 vessels      10,207                                659,000
+
+"During the past season we stated that there was employed on the lakes
+a marine equal to 80,000 tons; we have assurance now that even that
+large estimate was below the reality. The latest returns to Congress,
+in 1843, gave 60,000 tons; but, as those documents are always a year
+or two behind the reality, and embrace dead as well as living vessels,
+they are of very little consequence. The existing and employed tonnage
+is what is most desired. The subjoined shows the number, class,
+tonnage, and cost of vessels built on this and the other upper lakes
+during the past five seasons. By adding the cost of annual repairs and
+money expended in enlarging and re-modelling vessels, the sum would
+reach 2,500,000 dollars. The total number of vessels built during
+that period is 179.
+
+     Steamers.  Prop'rs.  Sail.     Tons.       Dollars.
+1845    13          4      32      10,207       659,000
+1844     9       none      34       9,145       548,000
+1843     6          4      23       4,830       336,000
+1842     2       none      23       3,000       164,000
+1841     1       none      28       3,530       173,000
+        --       ----     ---      ------     ---------
+Total   31          8     140      30,302     1,880,000
+
+"The whole of the above vessels were built above the Falls, at places
+between this port and Chicago, by capital drawn from the many sources
+legitimately pertaining to the lake business, and designed as a
+permanent investment. What has been done below Niagara, in the same
+field, during the past season, may be seen in the subjoined list of
+
+VESSELS BUILT ON LAKE ONTARIO, 1845.
+
+
+Syracuse        propeller   315   Oswego,      N. Y.
+H. Clay               ...   300   Dexter,        do.
+Hampton              brig   300   Pt. Peninsula, do.
+T. Wyman              ...   258   Oswego,        do.
+Algomah               ...   335   Cape Vincent,  do.
+Wabash                ...   314   Sack. Harbour, do.
+Crispin               ...   151       ditto
+Liverpool             ...   350   Garden Is.,   C.W.
+Quebec               brig   280   Long Island,   do.
+H. H. Sizer      schooner   242   Pillar Point, N.Y.
+Maid of the Mill      ...   200   Oswego,        do.
+Milan                 ...   147   Pt. Peninsula, do.
+H. Wheaton            ...   200   Oswego,        do.
+Welland               ...   220       ditto
+Josephine             ...   175       ditto
+                            ---
+Total 15 vessels, 3,787 tons.
+
+"To which must be added the schooner J. S. Weeks, rebuilt and enlarged
+at Point Peninsula, at a heavy outlay; and also the schooner Georgiana
+Jenia, at St. Catharine's, which was cut in two, and rebuilt. The
+Josephine and Wyman are rebuilds, but so thoroughly as almost to fall
+within the denomination of new craft. The Wyman is polacca-rigged, the
+only one in service, we think. The Algomah is full rigged, and, like
+the others, very strongly built. The Quebec and Liverpool are also
+well ironed, and designed for Atlantic service, when the St. Lawrence
+locks will admit of a free passage.
+
+"There have been built on the lower lake other vessels than those
+embraced in the above list, including some steamers; and, in order to
+give our exchanges an opportunity to present the entire number and
+amount of expense, we omit any estimate of the cost and general outlay
+of the vessels named above. Applying our data, however, we make the
+outlay 25,000 dollars each, for the two propellers, and 127,000
+dollars for the fifteen sail vessels, being a total of 177,000
+dollars.
+
+"Of some sixty steamers now owned on the lake (Erie), there are
+required for the several lines, when the consolidation exists, about
+thirty boats. There are also used, at the same time, some ten more
+small boats, between intermediate ports, for towing, &c., to which we
+also add the London and four others, belonging to and owned in Canada.
+There are also fourteen propellers, and ten more to be added on the
+opening of navigation in the spring, with fifty brigs and two hundred
+and seventy schooners, known to be in commission, giving the annexed
+summary of lake tonnage:--
+
+
+                             Tons.         Dollars.
+Steamers          60        21,500        1,500,000
+Propellers        20         6,000          350,000
+Brigs             50        11,000  }
+Schooners        270        42,000  }     2,000,000
+                 ---        ------        ---------
+  Total          400        80,000        4,050,000
+
+"In this we enumerate the seven Oswego propellers, and such sail craft
+belonging to Lake Ontario only as we know participate in the business
+of the upper lakes.
+
+"_On the stocks._--The desire to invest farther capital in vessels is
+seen in the number of new craft now on the stocks at various places
+throughout the whole range of the lakes. At this early day, we hear of
+the following to be rapidly pushed towards completion:
+
+"At this port, a steamer of 750 tons, for Mr. Reed, the iron steamer
+Dallas, of 370 tons, for government, and three propellers of large
+size; at Chippewa, C. W., a large steamer; at Euclid, O., a brig of
+290 tons; at Conneaut, O., a brig of 300 tons; at Cleveland, O., a
+steamer of 700 tons, three propellers of 350 tons each, a brig of 280
+tons, a schooner of 230 tons, and another of 70 tons, all to be out
+early; at Charleston, O., a steamer of 800 tons, a propeller of 350
+tons, and a schooner of 200 tons. An Oswego house has an interest in
+the propeller: at Maumee City, O., two propellers of 350 tons each; at
+Truago, Michigan, a large steamer of 225 feet keel, for Captain
+Whitaker; at Detroit, a large steamer for Mr. Newbury, another for
+Captain Gager, and a third, of the largest class, for Captain Randall;
+at Palmer, Michigan, a propeller for Captain Easterbrooks; at Newport,
+Michigan, a steamer for the Messrs. Wards, and the frame of another
+but smaller boat, for the same firm, to run between Detroit and Port
+Huron.
+
+"At Goderich, C. W., or vicinity, a propeller; at Milwaukie, a barque
+and brig, of large tonnage, 300 each. One of these vessels is nearly
+planked up already, and will be down with a cargo of wheat as soon as
+the straits are navigable; at Depere, W. T., a large-sized schooner,
+and a yacht of 70 tons; at Chicago, a large brig, or schooner, for
+Captain Parker, late of the Indiana; at St. Catherine's, C. W., a
+brig; and at the mouth of the Genesee River a propeller, for a
+Rochester company, making, in all, ten steamers, twelve propellers,
+and twelve sail vessels--thirty-four in all."
+
+Another American paper, in its remarks on the preceding article,
+furnishes some additional information.
+
+"The introduction of steam upon the lakes was gradual, yet
+commensurate with our wants. From the building of the second boat, in
+1822, to the launch of the Sheldon Thompson, at Huron, in 1830, six or
+seven small steamers had only been put in commission, and for the
+ensuing four years a press of business kept in advance of the
+facilities. But the zeal and extended desire to invest capital in new
+steamers was reached in 1837-8, when no less than thirty-three boats,
+with an aggregate of 11,000 tons, were built at an outlay of 1,000,000
+dollars. This period points to the maximum, and then came the
+reaction. In 1840, only one steamer came off the stocks, and the same
+prostration and dearth in this department continued for three years,
+when it again received a new and fresh impulse, and now presents one
+of the leading characteristics of investment in our inland trade. The
+sum of 1,000,000 dollars has been diverted from other channels of
+business to this branch within the past two years, in addition to a
+very large outlay in sail vessels; and as the wants of commerce
+develop, some marked changes may be observed. The small, or
+medium-sized boats, into which the merchant farmer and foreign
+immigrant were indiscriminately huddled, have given place to
+capacious, swift, and stately vessels, in which are to be found a
+concentration of all that is desirable in water conveyance. Such is
+now the characteristic of steamboat building on the western lake.
+
+"The following is the number and value of vessels owned and
+exclusively engaged in the trade of Upper Canada in 1844:--
+
+
+                           Dollars.
+51 Steamers valued at     1,220,000
+ 5 Propellers                46,000
+80 Sail Vessels             114,000
+                          ---------
+    Total, 136 Vessels    1,380,000
+
+  Having employed thereon 3,000 men.
+
+"The whole number of men employed between Buffalo and Chicago is
+estimated at about 5,000. During the season of non-navigation, half of
+these are employed upon farms in Ohio.
+
+"Demonstrable evidence from many sources is at command to show the
+progressive change and accumulative power of the lake trade. In 1827,
+a steamer first visited Green Bay, for government purposes, and the
+Black Hawk war in 1832 drew two boats to Chicago for the first time.
+Now the trade of the latter place, in connexion with the business
+growing out of the rapid settlement of Wisconsin, sustains a daily
+line. A glance at the trade of Chicago for last year will illustrate
+the change that has taken place there.
+
+"The gross tonnage of the lakes above the Falls, in 1845, was 100
+vessels and 80,000 tons. This spring it will be found to have
+augmented from 5,000 to 10,000 tons.
+
+"In 1845, the whole number of arrivals at the port of Buffalo was
+1,700. Last season, 1,320 entries were made at Chicago. The entries
+at the port of Buffalo for 1845 were--
+
+
+Steamers     42 tons 18,000 Arriv. 1,000 Ag. ton. 385,167
+Propellers    9       2,550   ...     76    ...    23,477
+Brigs        46      10,000   ... }         ...
+Schooners   211      40,000   ... } 1,625   ...    50,818
+            ---      ------                       -------
+Total       308      70,550                       611,235
+
+"From a valuable table given by the "Commercial Advertiser," we learn
+that the _available_ steam marine of the lakes is 60 steamers, and a
+tonnage of 30,000 tons. This is irrespective of 20 propellers."
+
+If the spirit of trade _locates_ any where on this earth of ours, it
+does so specially at Buffalo, where dollars and cents, cents and
+dollars, occupy almost every thought of almost every mind. It is very
+amusing to look at the advertisements in a Buffalo paper. I shall give
+two or three as specimens.
+
+         Another Lot of those worsted dress goods, at one
+         dollar a pattern, received this morning.
+
+                 A. Wattles.
+
+         French Corded Skirts. Another lot of those French
+         corded skirts just received, and for sale at
+
+                 J. G. Latimer's, 216, Main Street.
+
+         Crash, Crash. Pure linen crash, slightly damaged,
+         at half price at
+
+                Wattles' Cheap Store.
+
+         What kind of goods do you want? Ladies and
+         gentlemen can find every kind of goods they may
+         wish, in the dry goods line, at Garbutt's, plain or
+         fanciful, any kind of dress you are in want of.
+         Call at the Big Window, 204, Main Street.
+
+         Running off again. After Friday next, I shall
+         commence running off my beautiful stock of Paris
+         muslins and Balzorines, at great reduction.
+
+                N. B. Palmer, 194, Main Street.
+
+         History of Oregon, by George Wilkes, 25 cents.
+
+                T. S. Hawkes.
+
+         Gaiter Pants made to order, No. 11, Pearl Street.
+
+                E. W. Smith.
+
+         Voice of the People. Need not force them down.
+         Sugar-coated Indian vegetable pills.
+
+                G. B. Smith.
+
+Illustrations of the most ridiculous kinds show that newspaper
+advertisements must be very cheap indeed, for everything literally,
+from a washing-tub to a steamboat, is advertised daily for sale at
+Buffalo.
+
+Buffalo is a sample city of the lake frontier of the United States,
+better than Rochester, a more manufacturing mill-power place; a
+specimen of what enterprise, energy, and paper money credit can do: a
+specimen of the border population, where hatred to England reigns
+supreme among the lower classes, and where a residence of six months
+would quite cure any English ultra-radical destructive of good
+education; an ultra-radical destructive of no education, or half
+educated, would, however, be vastly improved.
+
+I had a soldier with me, and he asked leave to go on shore, which I
+freely granted, convinced, from what I knew of him, that he was proof
+against Buffalonian eloquence. He had scarcely stepped out of the
+vessel, on the wharf, in plain clothes, before he was hailed by a
+deserter, who was doing duty as a porter to some shopkeeper, and told
+of the delights of liberty and independence; but the porter had left
+the regiment for a little false estimate of the words _meum_ and
+_tuum_, and therefore the old soldier declined turning from the
+carrying of Brown Bess[1] to being a beast of burden. He was then
+assailed by a sergeant, who had been obliged to desert for misconduct
+in a pecuniary point of view, and shown into a little grog-shop on
+the quay, that he was keeping; but appearances were here not very
+flattering either: in short, the deserter is not at a premium in the
+United States, for he is always suspected. Strange to say, these men
+are occasionally enlisted in the regular American army; a proof of
+which was witnessed last winter at Sackett's Harbour, where some of
+our officers from Kingston saw a man who had been received, and who
+had deceived all the American officers, except the surgeon. This
+gentleman, suspecting he was not a free and enlightened citizen,
+although he assumed the drawl and guess, suddenly said to him,
+"Attention!" upon which the deserter immediately dropped his hands
+straight, and stood, confessed, a soldier.
+
+[Footnote 1: Brown Bess, a musket--_vide Infantry Dictionary._]
+
+It would appear that in peace-time deserters should not be received
+into the ranks of a friendly power. Even in war, they are received by
+European nations with difficulty and distrust; for a man who once
+voluntarily breaks his oath and casts off his allegiance is very
+likely to be a double traitor.
+
+The deserters from the regiments stationed in Canada frequently apply
+to be received back, but it is a rule to refuse them; and very
+properly so.
+
+It is incredible what pains are taken on the frontier, by the loafing
+population from the States, to persuade the young soldiers to desert;
+and that, too, without any adequate prospect of benefit, but merely
+out of hatred, intense hatred, to England; for they soon leave the
+unfortunate men, who usually are plied with liquor, to their fate,
+when once in the land of liberty; and this fate is almost invariably a
+very miserable one.
+
+The soldier I had with me told me that, while we were at the Falls, a
+man made up to him at the hotel, for he was then in uniform, being on
+the British side, and introduced himself as a general, saying that he
+was surprised he could remain in such a service, and volunteered to
+place him in their army, which he laughed at, and told him he
+preferred Queen Victoria's. This man he described to me as a
+gentleman, in his dress and manner; but, if he was a general, he was
+certainly a militia one, for the regular generals are not very plenty;
+and, from what I have heard of them, are above such meanness.
+
+We had a military general, who is, I believe, a shoemaker of Buffalo
+or of New York, at Kingston last winter, who gave out that he had
+crossed over the ice to see if it was true that fortifications were
+actually in progress at Kingston. He met a keen young gentleman, who
+was determined to have a little fun with General Crispianus, who was
+attired in a fine furred, frogged, winter coat, and pointed Astracan
+cap, with a heavy tassel of silk.
+
+"So you are at work here, I guess?"
+
+"Yes," said the young gentleman, "we are."
+
+"Well, I do hope you will be prepared in Kanaday, for though we don't
+approve some of our president's notions, we shall sustain him to a
+man; and, as soon as ever war is declared, we shall pour two or three
+hundred thousand men into your country and annex it."
+
+"Oh, is that all!" replied the youth; "I advise you then, general, to
+take care of yourself, for we expect sixty thousand regulars from
+England."
+
+"I didn't hear that before," said General Crispianus; and no doubt he
+returned to his last somewhat discomfited. _Ne sutor ultra crepidam._
+
+Before his departure, however, he went to see a newly invented
+pile-driver, which was at work, and, after looking at the _monkey_ for
+some time, which was raised and lowered by two horses, and drove the
+piles very quickly, with enormous power, he said to his friend
+suddenly, "Waal, I swar, that does act sassy."
+
+So much for General Crispianus.
+
+We passed the night aboard of the Thames, preferring her spacious
+accommodations to those of the hotels in such a hot season, when the
+rain poured in torrents; but sleep was out of the question, for the
+climate of Sierra Leone could scarcely be more insufferable than the
+atmosphere then and there.
+
+The rain cleared away in the morning, and a prospect of Lake Erie in
+a rage presented itself; so we could not quit the miserable apology
+for a harbour which Buffalo Creek affords, crowded, narrow, and nasty,
+until half past nine, and then, with great difficulty, on board the
+Emerald, a small Canadian steamboat, worked out amidst a string or
+maze of all sorts of merchant-craft.
+
+Lake Erie presented an appearance exactly like the shallow sea, green
+and foamy, and very angry; and, in passing the shoals at the entrance
+of the Niagara river, it rolled the boat so that there was some
+danger; and one old lady vowed that she would never quit the United
+States any more.
+
+A nice comfortable-looking Massachusetts farmer, the very type of a
+Buckinghamshire grazier of the year 1800, who was her husband, took a
+fancy to me because I was endeavouring to assure his old dame that she
+was not in real danger, and told me various stories, for he was very
+loquacious.
+
+Among other things, he said it was very disgraceful to the
+Buffalonians to allow such a miscreant as Benjamin Lett, whom we saw
+on the wharf, be at large, as he boasted of having blown up Brock's
+monument, and of shooting Captain Ussher in cool blood at his own door
+in the night, long after all the disturbances of the insurrection were
+over. Lett seemed to glory in his villanies, and was a
+disgusting-looking loafer, for whose punishment the laws of the United
+States have proved either too lenient or totally inadequate. This
+fellow escaped when heavily ironed by jumping out of a rail car on his
+way to the Auburn Penitentiary, and no doubt has many admirers.
+
+The good farmer told me that he had been to see Auburn, and that there
+was a little boy confined there for setting fire to a barn. He was
+only eleven years of age, and had been hired for half a dollar by a
+ruffian to do the deed.
+
+But Auburn (what a misnomer for a penitentiary establishment, enough
+to make poor Goldsmith shiver in his shroud!) is not the only
+penitentiary in America where children expiate crime. Kingston in
+Canada can show several examples, among others, three brothers; and it
+appears to me that a better system is required in both countries. A
+house of correction for such juvenile offenders would surely be better
+than to mix them in labour with the hardened villains of a
+penitentiary. It is, in fact, punishing thought before it has time to
+discriminate, and the consequence is that these children return youths
+to the same place, and when they again leave it as youths, they return
+as men, for their minds are then callous.
+
+The penitentiary system in Canada is undergoing a strict trial.
+
+It will surprise my readers to state that, in an agricultural country,
+where the manners of the people are still very primitive, where
+education is still backward, and civilization slowly advancing, out of
+a population of about 1,200,000, scattered widely in the woods, there
+should be so large a proportion as twenty women, and five hundred men,
+in the Kingston Penitentiary; for, as education and civilization
+advance, and large towns grow up, new wants arise, and evil
+communication corrupts good manners, so that the proportion of great
+crimes between an old and a new country is much in favour always of
+the latter.
+
+Recent discoveries of the police in Montreal have shown that _hells_
+of the most atrocious character, and one in imitation of Crockford's,
+as far as its inferior means would go, have been found out.
+
+At Kingston a most wretched establishment of the same nature has
+recently been broken up, and at Toronto great incentives to vice in
+the very young exist.
+
+Clerks in banks have gambled away the property of their employers in
+these places to the amount of several thousands, and, the frontier of
+the United States being so near, they have fled as soon as discovery
+was apprehended, but, owing to the international arrangements for the
+arrest of such criminals, have hitherto been detected, and consigned
+to the laws of their offended country.
+
+The spirit of insubordination, which so forcibly operates in
+uneducated minds, where the constant example of the excess of freedom
+in the neighbouring States is ever present, has much changed the
+aspect of society in all the large towns and villages of Western
+Canada. There is no longer that honest independence of the working and
+labouring classes which existed fifteen years ago; but impudent
+assumption has forced its way very generally, and among servants more
+particularly. If they are not permitted to make the kitchen a
+rendezvous for their friends, to go out whenever they like, and in
+fact to be masters and mistresses of the habitation, they immediately,
+and without warning, leave, and no laws exist to prevent the growing
+evil: the consequence is that household economy is every where
+deranged, and a _place_, as it is called, is only good where high life
+below stairs is freely permitted.
+
+The servants too are chiefly Irish, who have neither means nor
+inclination for settling in the forest, and consequently there is
+little or no competition, while they are so well known to each other,
+and so banded in a sort of Carbonari system, that it is extremely
+difficult to replace bad ones, even by worse.
+
+The women servants are the worst. I saw an instance lately however of
+a precocious young villain of twelve, who was footboy in a gentleman's
+family, and his young sister, not fourteen, under-housemaid. His
+mother, a widow in infirm health, recently imported from Dublin, had
+brought up her children well, as far as reading and writing went, but
+had indulged them too much, and beat them so much, that they neither
+loved nor feared her. The little boy, only twelve, got into bad
+company, and ran away from his place, where he was well fed, well
+clothed, and kindly treated, and took his livery with him. He was
+brought back, after being partially frost-bitten, by his uncle, and
+received again from mistaken kindness. A cook of bad habits and worse
+temper got hold of him, and, after staying a short time, he again
+deserted with all the clothes and things he could carry. A young lady
+in the family had previously told him that her father would one day
+take him to the penitentiary to show him what bad boys came to. "That
+is the very place I want to get into," said the young ruffian, "for I
+hear there is fine fun there; I will steal something by and by, and
+then they will send me there."
+
+Accordingly, he did steal, and took French leave one fine morning with
+Madam Cookey, having previously strangled the young lady's favourite
+cat, just about to kitten, and having the night before he absconded
+told the young lady he had made a famous nest for pussy to kitten in,
+and that if she went to the cellar in the morning, she would find the
+cat on her nest.
+
+The young lady thought nothing of what he said at the moment, but,
+after finding when the family got up that the cook and boy were off,
+she went to look at her kittens, found the cat strangled, frozen, and
+placed on the nest. A day or two afterwards, the little sister
+decamped with three suits of dresses. Now what use would there be in
+putting such a boy or such a girl at so tender an age, and with such
+principles, into a penitentiary?
+
+Penitentiaries are not proper receptacles for infant villains. The
+very contagion of working with murderers, coiners, horse-stealers, and
+scoundrels of the deepest dye is enough alone to confirm their habits
+and inclinations; and I am not aware of any instance of an infant boy
+or girl coming out of the Kingston Penitentiary subdued or improved.
+They are more marked characters when they again join their former
+friends; for they seldom avoid their former haunts and those whose
+example first led them astray, but plunge again and again deeper into
+crime.
+
+It is the same with beating a child to excess; spare the rod and spoil
+the child, says the Jewish lawgiver; but where slavery does not exist,
+the rod is not to be used to that extent, and it does not improve even
+slaves. No; as in the army and in the navy, it hardens culprits, and
+very seldom indeed acts upon their consciences.
+
+Border population is usually of a low character, and I cannot think
+it can be worse anywhere than where the maritime, or rather
+_laculine_, if such a word is admissible, preponderates, and where
+that race are unemployed for at least five months of the Boreal
+winters of Canada. It is only a wonder that serious crime is so
+infrequent. Burglary was almost unknown, as well as highway robbery,
+until last year; but instances of both occurred near Toronto, and the
+former twice at Kingston. The only use to such a class that a war
+could be of would be to employ them; but it is to be predicted, if
+peace exists much longer, that the civil and criminal jurisprudence of
+towns and cities bordering on the great lakes must undergo very great
+revision, and a suitable police be employed in them.
+
+Nothing can, by any possibility, be more eminently absurd than the
+police of Kingston as at present constituted. These men are dressed
+like officers in the army; and, instead of being in the streets to
+prevent accident or crime, are employed, as they say, hard at work,
+detecting the latter. How they do now and then, at intervals few and
+far between, succeed in detecting an unhappy loafer is a mystery to
+everybody, for they are usually observed on the steps of the Town
+Hall, or carrying home provisions from the market, with a fine dog
+following them, or else jaunting about in cabs or sleighs.
+
+London is said to have suffered much by the policemen finding their
+way down the area steps of houses, and amusing themselves in cupboard
+courtships with the lady-cooks, housemaids, and scullions; but I
+verily believe Kingston has not arrived at that perfection of a
+domestic police, for most of the men are middle-aged and married.
+
+The cabmen and carters of Kingston, it is said, elect the Aldermen and
+Common Council. Whether this be true or false, I cannot pretend to
+say, but it is very certain that a more insolent, ungoverned race than
+the cabmen do not exist anywhere. The best position of the best
+promenade is occupied by these fellows; and no respectable female or
+timid man dares to pass them without receiving coarse insult; and, if
+complaint is made, they mark the complainant; and, if they keep a
+sleigh or carriage, make a point of running races near them, and
+cracking heavy whips to frighten their horses. One of these ruffians
+frightened a gentleman's horse last winter, and threw him, his wife,
+and daughter on the pavement, in consequence of the animal running
+away, and overturning the vehicle they were in. They know all the
+grooms and servants, and act according as they like or dislike them,
+caring very little what their masters hear or see. The carters are
+somewhat better, as there are decent men among them; but many of that
+body care very little about the laws of the road, which, by the by,
+are different here from those at home.
+
+    If you go left you go right,
+    If you go right, you go wrong,
+
+is reversed in Canada, the right side of the road being always the
+driving side in both provinces; thus, if you go right, you do not go
+wrong; although such a manifest advantage in ethics, it will appear
+that right is not always right in Canada, but that cabmen's right and
+carters' right confer degrees in the Corporation College, which ensure
+a large share of wrong to the public.
+
+But they are going to change all this, and bring in an Act of
+Parliament to alter the constitution of the fathers of the city of
+Regiopolis, who, it appears, have not hitherto rendered any account of
+their stewardship.
+
+I shall not now enter into any further recapitulation of the journey
+from the Falls of Niagara to Toronto, or from Toronto to Kingston,
+save to say that some very intelligent citizens of the United States
+from Philadelphia were my companions on board the splendid British
+mail-packet, City of Toronto. The ex-Mayor of Philadelphia and his two
+amiable daughters were of the party, and I much question whether we
+could have had a more pleasant voyage than that which terminated on
+the seventeenth day of July. I omitted to observe, that voyage from
+Buffalo to Toronto was performed in eight hours and a quarter, as
+follows: Buffalo to Chippewa, by Emerald steamer, one hour and a half;
+Chippewa, by horse-car railway, to Queenston, one hour and a quarter;
+Queenston, by Transit steamer, to Toronto, four hours and a half,
+including all stoppages and detentions, among which was that of
+upwards of an hour at Queenston, waiting for the boat. The distance is
+about seventy miles; and the actual rate of going, for none of the
+conveyances are very rapid ones, is about ten miles an hour.
+
+Kingston is one hundred and eighty-nine miles from Toronto by land,
+and one hundred and eighty by water; and the journey is performed in
+the mail-packets, which stop at several places occasionally, in
+eighteen hours, or about ten miles an hour, with detention for taking
+in wood, the speed averaging eleven.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+  Equipage for a Canadian Gentleman Farmer--Superiority of certain iron
+  tools made in the United States to English--Prices of Farming
+  Implements and Stock--Prices of Produce--Local and Municipal
+  Administration--Courts of Law--Excursion to the River Trent--Bay of
+  Quint--Prince Edward's Island--Belleville--Political Parsons--A
+  Democratic Bible needed--Arrogance of American politicians--Trent
+  Port--Brighton--Murray Canal in embryo--Trent River--Percy and Percy
+  Landing--Forest Road--A Neck or nothing Leap--Another perilous leap,
+  and advice about leaping--Life in the Bush exemplified in the History
+  of a Settler--Seymour West--Prices of Land near the Trent--System of
+  Barter--Crow Bay--Wild Rice--Healy's Falls--Forsaken Dwellings.
+
+
+"A truant disposition" took me into another district on my return to
+Kingston, as I was thoroughly determined to see a thoroughly new
+Canadian settlement, and therefore prepared, by purchasing a new
+waggon and a new pair of horses, to start for Seymour West, in the
+Newcastle district, some 120 miles north-west, and upwards of twenty
+miles in the Bush from the main stream of settlement, where a young
+friend was beginning life, for whom the horses, waggon, and sundry
+conveniences for farming and a few little luxuries were intended.
+
+A waggon, dear settling reader, in Canada, is not a great lumbering
+wooden edifice upon four wheels, whose broad circumferences occupy
+about four feet of the road, and contain some ton or two of iron, as
+our dear Kentish hop-waggons are wont to show in the Borough of
+Southwark, or throughout lordly London, those carrying coals. No, it
+is a long box, painted green or red, a perfect parallelogram, with two
+seats in it, composed of single boards, and occasionally the luxury of
+an open-work back to lean against; which boards are fastened to an ash
+frame on each side, thus affording an apology for a spring seat. This
+is the body; the soul, or carriage, by which said body is moved,
+consists of four narrow wheels, the fore pair traversing by a
+primitive pin under the body, the hind pair attached to the vehicle
+itself. A pole, or, as it is called, a tongue, projects from the
+front, and can be easily detached; _et voilà tout_! The expense is
+sixteen pounds currency, or about twelve sterling for a first-rate
+article, with swingle bars, or, as they are always called here,
+"whipple-trees," to attach the traces to. A set of double harness is
+six pounds, and two very good horses may be obtained for thirty more,
+making in all fifty-two pounds Canada money, or a little more than
+forty sterling, for an equipage fit for a gentleman farmer's all work,
+namely, to carry a field, or to ride to church and market in.
+
+There are two or three other things requisite, and among the foremost
+a first-rate axe. No man should ever travel in Canada without an axe,
+for you never know, even on the great main roads, when you may want it
+to remove a fallen tree, or to mend your waggon with. A first-rate axe
+will cost you, handle and all, seven shillings and sixpence currency,
+but then it is a treasure afterwards; whereas, a cheap article will
+soon wear out or break. Strange to say, Sheffield and Birmingham do
+not produce coarse cutting tools for the Canada market, that can
+compete with the American. It has been remarked, of late years, that
+even all carpenters' tools, and spades, pickaxes, shovels, _et id
+genus omne_, are all cheaper, better, and more durable from the
+States, than those imported from England. Let our manufacturers at
+home look to this in time, and, eschewing the spirit of gain, cease to
+make cutting tools like Peter Pindar's razors. In the finer
+departments, such as surgical and other scientific instruments,
+Jonathan is as far astern; and, although he may use a sword-blade very
+well, he has not yet made one like Prosser's.
+
+In heavy ironwork Jonathan is advancing with rapid strides; and even
+the Canadian, whom he looks down upon with some contempt, is competing
+with him in the forging and casting of steam-engines. There are very
+respectable foundries at Kingston, Toronto, Niagara, and Montreal. The
+only difficulty I have yet heard of is in making large shafts. Every
+other kind of heavy iron or steel manufacture can now be rapidly and
+better done in Canada than in the United States--I say advisedly
+_better_ done, because the boilers made in Canada do not burst, nor do
+the engines break, as they do in the charming mud valley of the
+Mississippi. For one accident in Canada there are five hundred in the
+States; in fact, I remember only one by which lives were lost, and
+that happened to a small steamer near Montreal, about four years ago;
+whereas, they go to smash in the Union with the same go-ahead velocity
+as they go to caucus, and seem to care as little about the matter.
+John Bull often calculates much more sedately and to the purpose than
+his restless offspring, who seem to hold it as a first principle of
+the declaration of independence that a man has a right to be blown up
+or scalded to death.
+
+They are as national in this as in naming new cities. What names, by
+the by, they do give them!--think of _Alphadelphia_ in Michigan,
+Buc_y_rus in Ohio, _Cass_-opolis, from, I suppose, General Cass, in
+Michigan, Juliet in Illinois, Kalida (it ought to be Rowland Kalydor)
+in Ohio, Milan in Ohio, Massilon in Ohio, Peru in Iowa, Racine in
+Wisconsin, Tiffin in Ohio, and Ypsilanti in Michigan. Cæsar, Pompey,
+Cassius, Brutus, Homer, Virgil, and all the heathen gods, goddesses,
+demi-gods, and republicans, are sown as thick as leaves in
+Vallombrosa.
+
+But to return to farming. You may have a plough, of the hundred new
+Yankee inventions, or of a good substantial Canadian cut, for six
+dollars, a wheat cradle scythe for the same, complete, a common scythe
+for ten shillings, or less; and thus for less than one hundred pounds,
+the farm may be stocked with two horses, two bullocks, two cows, (a
+good cow is worth five pounds) pigs, and poultry. Sheep you must not
+attempt, until a sufficient clearance of grazing ground is completed,
+but you can buy as many there as you want, of the very best kind, for
+three or four dollars a head. A good ram, bull, or boar, is, however,
+scarce, and proportionably dear, but most of the districts now have
+agricultural societies, at whose meetings prizes are given for every
+kind of stock, and the farmers are devoting much more of their
+attention to rearing horses, cattle, sheep, and pigs, than was the
+case ten years ago, when almost all the markets were supplied from the
+United States. Kingston and Toronto now are supplied from their own
+bulk; and, as it will interest an emigrant intending to settle, I
+shall give the market prices of both cities, premising only that, in
+country towns, provision of all kinds is much cheaper.
+
+
+                                     Toronto, January 2, 1846.
+                                       s.   d.        s.   d.
+Flour, per barrel, 196 lb             25    0   @    28    0
+Oatmeal, per barrel, 196 lb           17    6  ...   20    0
+Wheat, per bushel, 60 lb               4    9  ...    5    3
+Rye, per bushel, 56 lb                 2    9  ...    3    0
+Barley, per bushel, 48 lb              2    4  ...    2    9
+Oats, per bushel, 34 lb                1   10  ...    2    2
+Peas, per bushel, 60 lb                2    6  ...    3    0
+Timothy, per bushel, 60 lb             4    0  ...    5    0
+Beef, farmers', per 100 lb            12    6  ...   17    6
+Beef, per lb                           0    3  ...    0    4
+Pork, farmers', per 100 lb            21    3  ...   27    6
+Bacon, per lb                          0    4  ...    0    6
+Mutton, by the quarter, per lb         0    2  ...    0    3
+Veal, by the quarter, per lb           0    2  ...    0    4
+Butter, in roll, per lb                0    8  ...    0   10
+Butter, in tub, per lb                 0    7  ...    0    9
+Turkeys, each                          1    3  ...    3    9
+Geese, each                            1    3  ...    1    6
+Ducks, per couple                      0   10  ...    1    3
+Chickens, per pair                     0   10  ...    1    3
+Eggs, per dozen                        1    3  ...    1    3
+Potatoes, per bushel                   3    0  ...    2    3
+Hay, per ton                          70    0  ...   90    0
+Straw, per ton                        40    0  ...   50    0
+
+                                    Kingston, January 31, 1846.
+                                       s.   d.        s.   d.
+Flour, per 112 lb                     14    0   @    14    6
+Oatmeal, per 112 lb                   14    6  ...    0    0
+Wheat, per bushel                      5    0  ...    5    6
+Barley, ditto                          3    0  ...    3    3
+Hay, per ton                          47    6  ...   52    6
+Straw, ditto                          25    0  ...   30    0
+Potatoes, per bushel                   2    0  ...    2    3
+Beef, per hundred                     20    0  ...   22    6
+Veal, per lb                           0    3  ...    0    4
+Mutton, ditto                          0    3  ...    0    4
+Butter, in roll                        0    9  ...    0   10
+Eggs, per dozen                        0    9  ...    0   10
+Turkeys, per couple                    5    0  ...    7    6
+Partridges, per pair                   5    0  ...    0    0
+Ducks, per couple                      1    8  ...    2    0
+
+The standard weights of grain and pulse, in Canada West, were
+regulated by Act of Parliament in 1835.
+
+                    lbs.
+Wheat                60
+Rye                  56
+Peas                 60
+Barley               48
+Oats                 34
+Beans                50
+Indian Corn          56
+Equal to a Winchester bushel.
+
+The price of keeping one horse in Kingston is about sixpence per day,
+in Toronto a shilling, but much less in all country places.
+
+The affairs of the districts into which Canada is divided are managed
+by a warden and councillors in each district, and two councillors are
+elected for each township, having above 300 qualified voters, and one
+for each having a less number. The improvement of the district roads,
+bridges, schools, jails, court-houses, and all public matters
+requiring expenditure of the taxes raised within the district, are
+arranged by this Board. Some very useful information for settlers is
+contained in the following:--
+
+
+Statute Labour.--Every male inhabitant, from twenty-one to sixty, not
+rated on the Assessment Roll, is liable to work on the highways for
+two days.
+
+Every assessed inhabitant is, in proportion to the estimate of his
+real and personal property on the Roll, liable to work on the
+highways, as follows:--Under £25 two days; under £50 three days; from
+that to £75 four days; from that to £100 five days; and
+
+
+For every £50 above £100, up to £500, one day;
+     "    100   "    500,    "  1000,     "
+     "    200   "   1000,    "  2000,     "
+     "    300   "   2000,    "  3500,     "
+     "    500   "   3500, one day;
+
+
+the fractional part between the different sums being always reckoned
+as a whole, and giving one day.
+
+Every person possessed of a waggon, cart, or team of horses,[1] oxen,
+or beasts of burthen or draft, used to draw the same, is liable to
+work three days.
+
+Indigent persons, oppressed by sickness, age, or having a large
+family, can be exempted at the discretion of the town warden.
+
+Any person liable can commute at 2s. 6d. per day, if he thinks
+proper.
+
+
+[Footnote 1: Team is called in Canada and in the States a span of
+horses, and means two.]
+
+
+THE GENERAL ASSESSMENT.
+
+    By the 59th Geo. III., chap. 7, sect. 2nd, the following is deemed
+    rateable property at the given valuation:--
+
+    Every town-lot in Toronto, Kingston, Niagara, and Queenston, £50;
+    every town-lot in Cornwall, Sandwich, Johnstown, and Belleville,
+    £25; every town-lot on which a dwelling is erected in Brockville,
+    £30; do. in Bath, £20; every acre of arable, pasture, or meadow
+    land, 20s.; every acre of uncultivated land, 4s.; every house
+    built with timber, squared or hewed on two sides, of one story in
+    height, and not two stories, with not more than two fireplaces, £20;
+    for every additional fireplace, £4; every dwelling-house built of
+    squared or flatted timber on two sides, of two stories in height,
+    with not more than two fireplaces, £30, and for every additional
+    fireplace, £8; every framed house under two stories in height, with
+    not more than two fireplaces, £35, and for every additional
+    fireplace £5; every brick or stone house of one story in height, and
+    not more than two fireplaces, £40; every additional fireplace, £10;
+    every framed, brick, or stone house, of two stories in height, and
+    not more than two fireplaces, £60; every additional fireplace, £10;
+    every grist-mill wrought by water, with one pair of stones, £150;
+    every additional pair, £50; every sawmill, £100; every merchant's
+    shop, £200; every storehouse owned or occupied for the receiving and
+    forwarding of goods, wares, or merchandize, for hire or gain, £200;
+    every stud-horse, kept for hire or gain, £100; every horse of the
+    age of three years and upwards, £8; oxen of the age of four years
+    and upwards, per head, £4; milch cows, per head, £3; horned cattle,
+    from the age of two years to four years, per head, £1; every close
+    carriage with four wheels, kept for pleasure, £100; every phaeton,
+    or other open carriage, with four wheels, kept for pleasure only,
+    £25; every curricle, gig, or other carriage, with two wheels, kept
+    for pleasure only, £20; every waggon kept for pleasure only £15;
+    every stove in a room where there is no fireplace to be considered
+    a fireplace.
+
+    All lands are rateable, held in fee-simple, or promise of
+    fee-simple, by the land board certificate, order of council, or
+    certificate of any governor of Canada, or by lease. The sum levied
+    in no case to be greater than one penny in the pound for any one
+    year.
+
+    The Queen, should she be possessed of, or in occupation of any
+    property in the province, is exempted from the payment of taxes.
+
+Each township of a district elects its own officers; at meetings held
+annually, on the first Monday in January, and called by the township
+clerk, after he has obtained a warrant from two or more justices of
+the peace. All freeholders above twenty-one years of age are entitled
+to a vote, and choose the undermentioned officers, viz.--one assessor
+and a collector, with pound-keepers and path-masters, or overseers of
+highways, three town-wardens, and from three to eighteen
+fence-viewers, whose duty it is to regulate fences. These
+town-officers are liable to penalty for refusing to serve, but cannot
+be elected oftener than once in three years: they have cognizance of
+all matters relating to cattle, height and nature of enclosures, and
+nuisances. Their duties are regulated by the district council's
+by-laws.
+
+Each district has an inspector of licenses, deputy clerk of the crown,
+judge and clerk of District Court, a judge and a registrar of the
+Surrogate Court, and one or two registrars for deeds, with coroners,
+according to the extent, at all the principal towns or villages.
+
+In each district is also a sheriff, a clerk of the peace, a treasurer,
+and, in some of the district towns, a board of police, with president,
+clerk, treasurer, and street-surveyor.
+
+The officers of the incorporated cities or towns are similar to those
+at home.
+
+Justice is administered by the courts of Queen's Bench,
+Quarter-Sessions, District Courts, and the Town Court, with Division
+Courts.
+
+The terms of the Court of Queen's Bench are four; and in Western
+Canada, at these times, the judges sit at Toronto to hear counsel on
+law questions.
+
+Easter term commences on the first Monday in February, and ends on the
+Saturday of the following week.
+
+Trinity term, second Monday in June, and ends Saturday of the
+following week.
+
+Michaelmas term, first Monday in August, until Saturday of the
+following week.
+
+Hilary, first Monday in November, until Saturday, as before.
+
+The Quarter Sessions are held throughout the province on the 7th of
+January, 1st of April, 1st of July, and 18th of November.
+
+The District Courts are held at the same time as the Quarter Sessions.
+This court has jurisdiction in all matters of contract from 40s. to
+£15; and, when the amount is liquidated or ascertained, either by the
+act of the parties, or the nature of the transaction, to £40. Thus a
+promissory note under £40 can be sued in this court before the
+district judge, who is usually a barrister: and an open or unsettled
+account under £15, but none above that amount; also, all matters of
+wrong, or, as the lawyers please to call it, _tort_, respecting
+personal chattels, when title to land is not brought in question, and
+the damages are under £15. The judge of the District Court, by a late
+Act, presides also at Quarter Session.
+
+The ordinary costs of a suit before him are from £5 to £10; and in the
+Queen's Bench, before a _real_ judge, from £10 to £30.
+
+The Division Courts are a sort of non-descript Courts of Conscience
+for recovery of small debts under £10; and here the district judge has
+his hands full, for he comes into play as president again, and has to
+hold courts in six divisions of his district once in two months.
+
+The Court of Chancery is the _summum bonum_; its costs are, of course,
+very great, and its decisions, though not quite so protracted as those
+of England, nor involving such stakes, plague many a poor suitor who
+comes to _equity_, when he can no longer get justice. I should most
+strongly advise him to ponder deeply, after wading through Division,
+District, and Queen's Bench, through judges without a wig and gown to
+judges in full paraphernalia, and barristers and attorneys without
+end, before he encounters a Master in Chancery. It may be such a
+lesson as he will never forget, for Canada is rather a litigious
+country--it is too near the States to be otherwise, and lawyers, as
+well as all other trades and professions, must live. Young settler,
+stick to your farm, get a clear title to your land, and never get into
+debt.
+
+I left Kingston in autumn, as aforesaid, with the farm stock and
+implements, and embarked on board the Prince Edward steamboat,
+Captain Bouter, for the mouth of the river Trent, in the Bay of
+Quinte.
+
+First you steam along the front of the famous city of Kingston, which
+now presents something of an imposing front, from the waters of the
+St. Lawrence, which here leave Lake Ontario and contract into two
+channels between which are Long Island and some others. The channel
+nearest to the United States is very narrow, or about a mile; that on
+the Canada side is very broad, being from three to five or six, with
+an islet or rock in the centre of the mouth or opening of Lake
+Ontario, called Snake Island, having one tree upon it, and visible
+from a great distance.
+
+A few miles above Kingston, you enter the Bay of Quinte by passing
+between the main land and Amherst Isle, or the Isle of Tanti, owned by
+Lord Mountcashell, on which are now extensive and flourishing farms.
+At the east end of the Isle of Tanti are the Lower Gap and the
+Brothers, two rocky islets famous for black bass fishing and for a
+deep rolling sea, which makes a landsman very sick indeed in a gale of
+wind. After passing this Scylla, the bay, an arm rather of Lake
+Ontario, becomes very smooth and peaceable for several miles, until
+you leave the pleasant little village of Bath, where is one of the
+first churches erected by the English settlers in Western Canada, and
+the beginning of the granary of the Canadas.
+
+After passing Bath, the Upper Gap Charybdis gives you another
+tremendous rolling in blowing weather, and the expanse of Lake Ontario
+is seen to the left, with the tortuous bay of Quinte again to the
+right; this arm of the lake being made for fifty or sixty miles more
+by the fertile district of Prince Edward, an island of great extent,
+and one of the oldest of the British settlements in Upper Canada,
+where Pomona and Ceres reign paramount; for all is fertility.
+
+The Bay of Quinte, in fact, on both the main shore and on Prince
+Edward, is one unvaried scene of the labours of the husbandman; for
+the forest is rapidly disappearing there, and the luxuriance of the
+scenery in harvest can only be compared with the best parts of
+England. It is indeed a glad and a rich country.
+
+The Lake of the Mountain and the Indian village of Tyandinaga are the
+lions of this route: the former, a singular crater full of the purest
+water, on the summit of a hill of some altitude, without any apparent
+source, but overflowing in a stream sufficient for mill purposes and
+very deep; the latter the seat of a portion of the Mohawks already
+mentioned.
+
+The vessel calls at several small settlements, and stops for the night
+at Hallowell or Picton, for the village has both names. This is a most
+picturesque locality, in a nook of the bay, with undulating hills and
+sharp ravines, a handsome church and other public edifices, and a
+large and thriving population. But we must for the present keep on
+board the steamer, and, after sleeping there, go on to Belleville,
+leaving Fredericksburgh, Adolphus Town, and many others in the
+Midland, to coast the Victoria district, and enter the charming little
+retreats in this pleasant bay to be described more at leisure.
+
+Belleville, the county town of the Victoria district, is situated on
+the shores of this bay, and, from an insignificant village in 1837,
+has risen in 1846 to the rank of a large and flourishing town, the
+main street of which surprised me not a little by its extent, the
+beauty of its buildings, and the display of its shops. I mounted the
+hill-side which overlooks it, and there saw three fine churches, the
+English, Roman Catholic, and Scotch places of worship, a large well
+built court-house and jail, and some pretty country-houses. I should
+think that Belleville has nearly four thousand inhabitants; and, as it
+is the outlet of a rich back country, and on the main road from
+Kingston to Toronto, it will increase most rapidly. The worst feature
+about Belleville in 1837 was that it was the focus of American
+saddle-bag preachers, teachers, and rebelliously disposed folks; but I
+am told that most of these uneasy loafers have left it, and that its
+character has improved wonderfully. What a nuisance are peddling,
+meddling, politicians of the lowest grade? Wherever they plant their
+feet, a moral pestilence follows. These fellows won't work, for the
+voluntary principle in preaching or teaching pays better, and does not
+cost so much trouble. It is surprising with what facility, in England,
+as well as in Canada, a saddle-bag doctor of divinity takes his
+degree, and becomes possessor of the secrets and director of the
+consciences and household of the small farmer. I once knew a family, a
+most respectable family of yeomen, of ancient descent and of excellent
+hearts, devoured by a locust of this kind in Buckinghamshire. In
+Canada they are devoured every day, and not unfrequently made disloyal
+into the bargain, although deriving their lands and support originally
+from the British government.
+
+They travel to the most remote settlements, where no such
+opportunities as church or chapel of any kind exist for public
+worship; and, after gaining the good opinion of the simple settler by
+an exterior sanctity and a snuffling expression of it, they soon slide
+into the recommendation of the superior chances of salvation that
+offer themselves, by forgetting the Divine command of "Render unto
+Cæsar the things that are Cæsar's," and of the Apostolic doctrine of
+"Honour the King." I have always been surprised that a democratic
+Bible retains such highly improper translations of the original
+tongue, as _prince_, _king_, _queen_, and conceive that there should
+be a special Act of Congress to declare that henceforward the words of
+the English language should be abolished and the American tongue
+substituted, under pains and penalties, omitting the aforesaid and all
+other similar _obnoxiosities_ from dictionary, grammar, and book. The
+Americans have just discovered that they have a prior claim to Oregon,
+and therefore must be an older nation than the British, the separation
+being a mere trifle, and the sway of England over the thirteen
+colonies and her ancient settlement of America a dream; ergo, the
+American language is the primitive tongue. A very excellent worthy
+gentleman of New York wrote to a friend in Kingston lately, stating
+that he was sorry that England was going to such an expense in
+fortifying that town, as it and all Canada would soon be American, and
+then the money thrown away would be missed.[1]
+
+[Footnote 1: In crossing the Atlantic in an American packet with a
+highly-gifted American, he told me one day that he was really glad to
+observe that such excellent dockyards were making at Bermuda, as in a
+few years they would no doubt belong to the Union. This was not said
+boastingly, but seriously.]
+
+It is actually astonishing, and will scarcely be credited at home,
+that all except the most reflecting people in the United States have,
+within the last five years, become really and seriously impressed with
+the notion that the whole continent of the New World is a part of
+their birthright, and that it is about to pass under their dominion,
+as a matter of course, as well as that all the powers of the Old World
+cannot hinder this consummation one day, or even exist themselves much
+longer, as a political millennium is speedily coming on.
+
+As an example of the self-sufficiency of this feeling, I quote a
+letter from a governor of a State, lately written to his constituents,
+perhaps on the strength of re-election, but really developing the
+national notion. In reply to a letter addressed to him by the whigs of
+Chautauque county, desiring his consent to stand as one of their
+candidates for the delegates to the Constitutional Convention,
+ex-Governor Seward wrote a reply of which the following is an
+extract:--
+
+"I want no war--I want no enlargement of territory sooner than it
+would come if we were contented with a masterly inactivity. I abhor
+war, as I detest slavery. I would not give one human life for all the
+continent that remains to be _annexed_.
+
+"But I cannot exclude the conviction that the popular passion for
+territorial aggrandizement is irresistible. Prudence, justice,
+cowardice, may check it for a season, but it will gain strength by its
+subjugation. An American navy is hovering over Vera Cruz. An American
+army is at the heart of what was Mexico. Let the Oregon question be
+settled when it may, it will, nevertheless, come back again. Our
+population is destined to roll its resistless waves to the icy
+barriers of the north, and to encounter oriental civilization on the
+shores of the Pacific. The monarchs of Europe are to have no rest,
+while they have a colony remaining on this continent. France has
+already sold out. Spain has sold out. We shall see how long before
+England inclines to follow their example. It behoves us then to
+qualify ourselves for our mission. We must dare our destiny. We can do
+this, and can only do it by early measures which shall effect the
+abolition of slavery, without precipitancy, without oppression,
+without injustice to slaveholders, without civil war, with the consent
+of mankind, and the approbation of Heaven. The restoration of the
+right of suffrage to free men is the first act, and will draw after it
+in due time the sublime catastrophe of emancipation."
+
+It is with nations as it is with individuals; a boy very soon fancies
+himself a man; he takes a switch in his hand, rides a muck against
+thistles and stinging nettles, cuts off their heads, might and main,
+and then fancies himself a Wellington or a Nelson. Young nations have
+the same notions, and age tames both the one and the other.
+
+Texas was easily tampered with; it was peopled only to be the
+People's: but Mexico may be a harder bone to pick. Already is a
+newspaper published there, named _El Tiemps, The Times_, to advocate a
+return to monarchy, in order to save the Spanish race from the Stars
+and the Stripes; and the besotted and wretched Republics of the South,
+conceived in folly, and born of the splendid dream of Canning, are
+falling to pieces from internal wars. Will his Ophirian Majesty, the
+Emperor of Brazil, humbly lay his crown at the feet of the Eagle, and
+are all our West India islands to be sipped up in the spoon of the
+President?
+
+Let the United States be a great, a free, and an enlightened Republic;
+no one in England desires otherwise. Let it hold the balance, to curb
+the semi-barbarous States of South America, and let it spread the
+gospel of peace, and the literature and laws of Britain to the
+uttermost parts of that benighted region; but also let it curb itself
+in time, before it seeks to overthrow all order, all rule, all right,
+and all reason, under the feet of its mere fancied might.
+
+There is not in England that hatred of its American offspring, which
+exists so largely towards the Parent State in the Union; on the
+contrary, there is an earnest, a sincere desire for the well-being and
+advancement of its best interests; but it is useless to conceal, and
+it would be unmanly also to attempt to do so, that the British pulse
+does not beat in unison with Lynch law, or with mob-rule, any more
+than it would with the tyranny of a despotism; neither will the honest
+pride of the English, the Irish, or the Scotch, permit that mob
+dominion, the might of the mass, to dictate a line of conduct upon any
+question, territorial or gubernative. Many master-minds at home admire
+the principles of the American constitution, as established by
+Washington; but they deeply regret the gulf that has opened since the
+era of that lawgiver; and there are few indeed who would dream even
+of exchanging the freedom of England for the freedom of the United
+States.
+
+The Reformers of British origin in Canada are, no doubt, very
+numerous; and, owing to misconception and other causes, with which
+the public are now acquainted, were once desirous of hoisting a new
+flag; but time and reflection have been at work since, and the term
+reformer in Canada is no longer one with which a word of fewer
+syllables is synonymous. Even during the rebellion, as it was called,
+of 1837, but which more properly should be called the border troubles,
+there were very few Upper or Western Canadians concerned, as the
+brigands were chiefly American borderers; the real rebellion being
+confined to Lower Canada. I commanded a very large body of militia,
+much of which had been gathered from the districts and counties where
+the Reformers had their strongholds, and in the ranks there were full
+as many Reformers as there were Tories, as the other party were then
+called.
+
+These subjects force themselves upon my attention, from the voyage
+near the shores of Sydney, Thurlow, and other townships, where
+Reformers and the really disaffected were very numerous in 1837; but,
+notwithstanding all this, it may be freely and fairly asserted again
+and again, that, let an invading force appear on their soil, the
+people of Canada will fight for home, for liberty, and for Queen
+Victoria.
+
+We steamed on to the Trent river through a glorious corn and apple
+country, and arrived there in time to meet my young friend, and to
+proceed in our waggon to Brighton, a few miles westward on the Toronto
+road, where we slept.
+
+Trent Port, or Trent village, is situated on both banks of the exitus
+of the Trent river into the Bay of Quinte, and is remarkable for two
+things: as being the intended outlet of one of the finest back
+countries in Canada, by a gigantic canal, which was to open Lake Huron
+to Ontario, through a succession of inland lakes and rivers, but which
+noble scheme was nipped in the bud after several of the locks had been
+excavated, and very many thousands of pounds expended. It is now
+remarkable only for its long, covered wooden bridge, and the quantity
+of lumber, _i.e._, in the new American Dictionary, deals, plank,
+staves, square timber, and logs floating on the tranquil water for
+exportation.
+
+Brighton is a little pleasant high-road hamlet, with two inns, and no
+outs, as it is not a place of trade, excepting as far as a small
+sawmill is concerned; but this will change, for it is near
+Presqu'ile, the only natural harbour on Lake Ontario's Canada shore,
+from Toronto to Kingston, or from one end to the other. Here the Bay
+of Quinte approaches the lake so close, that a canal of four or five
+miles only is requisite, through a natural level, in order to have a
+safe and sheltered voyage from Kingston without going at all into the
+real and dangerous lake, which is every where beset with "ducks and
+drakes," as its rocky and treacherous islets are called.
+
+This canal, which may be constructed easily for about five and twenty
+thousand pounds, must soon be made, and the bar of Presqu'ile Harbour
+deepened, so as to ensure a shelter for vessels in the furious gales
+of October and November.
+
+The canal is always traced on maps, and called Murray Canal, I
+presume, after the late Master-General of the Ordnance, during his
+government of the province. It is, without doubt, one of the most
+important and necessary works in Canada West; and, as it will lead
+into the Trent navigation, when that shall be finished, will be the
+means of adding some millions of inhabitants to the fairest portion of
+the land, now known only to wretched lumbermen.
+
+The River Trent is a large stream, full of shallows, and rapids, and
+beautiful lakes, taking its rise north of the township of Somerville,
+in the Colborne District, not very far from a chain of lakes, which
+reach the Ottawa on the east, and the Black River, a feeder of Lake
+Simcoe, and a tributary of Huron and the Severn, on the west.
+
+The river Trent is strangely tortuous, but keeps almost entirely
+within the Colborne district, named after Lord Seaton, and at Rice
+Lake afforded a site for the Colonial Office to establish a
+flourishing colony a few years ago at Peterborough, and to open an
+entirely new and very rich portion of Canada West.
+
+This river, placed, as it were, by Nature as the connecting link of a
+great chain of inland navigation, embracing the expanse of Huron,
+Ontario, and the Ottawa, opens a field of research both to the
+agriculturist and the forester. The woods abound with the finest kind
+of untouched timber; the land is fertile in the extreme; and the
+rivers, streams, and lakes abound with fish. In short, had the Trent
+Canal been finished, instead of the miserable and decaying
+timber-slides, which now encumber that noble river, another million of
+inhabitants would, in ten years more, have filled up the forests,
+which are now only penetrated by the Indian or the seeker after
+timber.
+
+A private individual has, however, put a steamboat upon the centre of
+the river's course; and Mr. Weller, no doubt, finds that it pays him
+well, for the portion of Colborne district near Rice Lake is settling
+rapidly.
+
+The Trent Canal, or a railroad, in the same direction, would lead to
+the Georgian Bay of Huron, and thus render a journey to the far West
+easy of accomplishment, as it is the most direct route from Oswego and
+New York.
+
+But I must journey on, and, after resting at Brighton, start by
+daylight, and penetrate into the bowels of the land by a sandy road,
+which, after passing that village, stretches into the forest due
+north.
+
+Away the waggon went, not at a hand-gallop, for the sand was too deep
+for that, and, passing through woods by a tolerably good road for so
+new a settlement, we, every now and then, at intervals few and far
+between, saw a new farm or a new log-hut.
+
+The day was fine, and so, having carried our provision with us, we
+halted in the deep woods, upon the muddy banks of the Cold Creek, to
+breakfast. A Tartar camp was visited by an English traveller somewhere
+in the dominions of the Grand Lama, and he was treated to London
+porter. So were we in the deep forest of Central Canada, for London
+porter appears to travel everywhere; and, discussing it with much
+relish, we fed the horses, and gave them what they liked much better,
+clear and pure water--which indeed I now think would have been quite
+as good for us--and waggoned on, until we came to a surprising new
+settlement in the Bush, the villages of Percy and Percy Landing,
+where, there being mill "privileges," as a sharp running water-stream
+is called in the United States, flour and saw-mills have been
+established, and a very thriving population is rising both in numbers
+and in means. Here we dined in a new inn, or rather tavern, kept by a
+French Canadian, and then pursued our journey for a few miles on a
+decent new road, amidst fine settlements and good farms, and, crossing
+a beautiful stream, plunged into the undisturbed forest by a road in
+which every rut was a canal, and every stone as big as a bomb-shell at
+the very least. How the waggon stood it, and the roots and stumps of
+the trees with which these boulders were diversified, I am still
+unable to explain; for my part, I walked the greater part of it, for
+the bones of my body seemed as if they were very likely, after a short
+trial, to part company with each other.
+
+At length, after jolting, jumping, complaining, and comforting, we
+came to a bridge near Myer's Mills. Our _conducteur_, my young friend
+aforesaid, who was more used to the road, saw at a glance that
+something had gone wrong with the said bridge; for it exhibited a very
+disorderly, drunken sort of devil-may-care aspect.
+
+He was too far advanced upon it to retreat, when he discovered that a
+beam or two had departed into the lively current below. With true
+backwoodsman's energy, he pulled his horses up sharp, reined them well
+up, and then, with a tremendous shout, applied the whip, and actually
+leaped horses, waggon, and passengers over the chasm, the remainder of
+the bridge groaning, and saying most plainly, "I will not bear this
+any longer." Next morning, we heard that the whole structure had
+fallen in and disappeared.
+
+I have been in some danger in the course of my life; but a visit
+afterwards to this spot convinced me that one's existence is often a
+sort of size-ace throw; and whether the six or the one comes up or
+goes down, is a miracle. I never had a nearer leap for clearing Styx
+than this, excepting one shortly afterwards upon the timber-slides of
+the Trent, at Healy's Falls.
+
+A vast timber canal or way had been constructed here by the Board of
+Works, to convey timber down a rapid without danger, the slide being
+alongside of that rapid. It was an interesting work; and, with my
+young friend and two naval officers, settled in Seymour, I went to
+examine it. At the sluice-way, or timber-dam, was a sort of bridge,
+composed of parallel pieces of heavy square joists and a platform; we
+walked along this Mahomet's railway, where Azrael seemed to have
+established pretty much the same sentry as Cerberus, having two or
+three mouths ready to devour the adventurous passenger.
+
+The parallel pieces were about two feet distant from each other; I
+walked on one, and my companions on the other, until a good view of
+the whole work and the splendid rapids was attained. Under our feet,
+at some distance, was the water of the slide running on an inclined
+plane of woodwork, at a great angle, and with enormous power and
+velocity into a pitch or cauldron far below.
+
+The day was bright, and the shadow of the parallel logs left between
+the space no view of the water underneath. They called me suddenly to
+look at the rapid. I jumped, as I thought, over the space between us;
+but my jump was into the shadow. One of the naval officers, a powerful
+man, six feet and more in height, saw me jump; and, just as I was
+disappearing between the timbers, caught me by the arm, and, by sheer
+muscle and strength, held me in mid-air. The other immediately
+assisted him, but my young friend became deadly pale and sick. I did
+not visit either the slide or the cauldron; in either, instantaneous
+and suffocating death was inevitable. Reader, never leap in dark
+places, and look before you leap. My young friend looked before he
+leaped over the bridge with his span of horses, and, like a gallant
+_auriga_, guided his van without fear; but he told me afterwards that
+the cold sweat sat on his brow, when the chasm was cleared, as much on
+the bridge as it did at my Quintus Curtius venture. By the by, did
+Quinte Curce, as the French so adroitly call him, ever leap--I doubt
+the fact--into the chasm which closed over him?
+
+After passing this bridge, and a slough of despond beyond it, we again
+plunged into the woods, and, mounting over boulders, sinking into
+bog-holes, and fairly jolted to jelly, on a sudden turned into an open
+space of near a hundred acres, round which the solemn and stately
+forest kept eternal guard. Here, in the space of ten or twelve years,
+our pioneer friends had laboured through weal and through woe, through
+Siberian winters and West Indian summers, through ague and fever, to
+create a little modern paradise.
+
+My young friend commenced in this secluded region, where the outer
+barbarian was never seen and seldom heard of, where even the troubles
+of 1837-8 never showed themselves, his location upon one hundred
+acres. He had received the very best education which a public
+institution in England could afford; but circumstances obliged him, at
+the early age of twenty-five, to turn his thoughts, with a young wife,
+to "life in the Bush," as a sole provision. The partner of his cares,
+equally well educated, and of an ancient family, by the death of her
+father, who was high in office in his country's service, was left
+equally unprovided for.
+
+With youth and good constitutions, a determination to make their own
+way in life spurred them on to the most disheartening task, a task
+which thousands of young people from Britain have, however, daily to
+encounter in Canada, and the progress of which I relate simply from a
+desire to show that "life in the Bush" is not to be entered into
+without solemn and serious reflection.
+
+Their first undertaking was to clear an acre or two of the forest, and
+crop it with grain and potatoes; then to build a log-house. In all
+this they were assisted by friends and neighbours as far as the
+limited means of those friends and neighbours, who were all similarly
+engaged, and the settlement containing not more than four or five
+families, would admit of.
+
+My young friend really set his shoulder to the wheel, and did not call
+upon Hercules whiningly. He had a fondness for carpenter's work, and,
+having cut down the huge pine trees on his _lot_, for so a property is
+called in Canada West, he hewed them, squared them, and dovetailed
+them; he quarried stone with infinite toil, burnt lime, and in the
+short space of two years had a decent log-palace, consisting of two
+large rooms, and a kitchen and cellar, with an excellent chimney, a
+well which he dug himself, and a very large framed barn, which he
+built himself, the only outlay being for nails, shingles to cover his
+roofs, and boards. These he had to bring with oxen and a waggon from
+the saw-mills at Percy, many miles off, and by the most hideous road I
+ever saw, even in Canada. He split his own rails, made his own fences,
+and cleared his own forest. This first settlement was commenced in
+1840, and, when I saw it in 1845, he had nearly thirty acres cleared,
+and this clearance and his really good house let to a settler just
+arrived.
+
+By one of those freaks of fortune unforeseen and unaccountable, a
+connexion, who occupied the adjacent farm of two hundred acres, and
+had had the command of money, died, and his property was left to the
+young couple.
+
+This gentleman, in the course of six or seven years, from the first
+settlement of this portion of Canada, had built an excellent house,
+had cleared a hundred acres, had a good garden, and everything which a
+settler could desire, with a well-stocked farm-yard, and a
+well-furnished house, into which my young friend stepped from his
+log-palace and became monarch of all he surveyed.
+
+But money, the sinews of war, was wanted; for, although the land,
+house, goods, and chattels became his, the funds went to another
+person, all but a trifling annual sum.
+
+The young couple had now a family growing about them, and, as they
+were very old friends of mine, they asked me to come and see "life in
+the Bush."
+
+Farmer Harry, as we will call my young friend, had now three instead
+of two hundred acres to attend to, but he had a flock of sheep, a pair
+of oxen, the _span_ of horses I brought for him, several cows, much
+poultry, and a whole drove of pigs, with barns full of wheat, peas,
+hay, and oats; an excellent garden, a fine little brook full of trout
+at his door, plenty of meadow, and his harvest just over.
+
+To help him, he had a hired man, who drove the oxen and assisted in
+ploughing; and to bring in his harvest there were three hired
+labourers, at two shillings and sixpence a day each, and their food
+and beds, with two maid-servants, one to assist in the dairy. Labour,
+constant and toilsome labour, was still necessary in order to make the
+farm pay; for there is no market near, and everything is to be bought
+by barter.
+
+Salt, tea, sugar, and all the little luxuries must be had by giving
+wheat, peas, timber, oats, barley, the fleeces of the sheep, salted
+pork, or any other exchangeable property; and thus constant care and
+constant supervision of the employed, as well as constant personal
+labour, are requisite in Canada on a farm for very many years, before
+its owner can sit down and say, "I will now take mine ease."
+
+The female part of the family must spin, weave, make homespun cloth,
+candles, salt the pork, make butter for sale, and even sell poultry
+and eggs whenever required; in short, they must, however delicately
+brought up, turn their hands to every thing, to keep the house warm.
+
+The labour of bringing home logs for fuel in winter is not one of the
+least in a farm, and then these logs have to be sawed and split into
+convenient lengths for the fireplaces and stoves.
+
+But all this may be achieved, if done cheerfully; and, to show that it
+can, I will add that, amidst all this labour, my young friend was
+building himself a dam, where the beavers, in times when that politic
+and hard-working little trowel-tailed race owned his property, had
+seen the value of collecting the waters of the brook. He was repairing
+their decayed labours, for the purpose of washing his sheep, of
+getting a good fish-pond, and of keeping a bath always full for the
+comfort of his family.
+
+What a change in ten years! The forest, which had been silent and
+untrodden since the beavers first heard afar off the sound of the
+white men's axes, was now converted into a smiling region, in which a
+prattling brook ran meandering at the foot of gently swelling
+hill-sides, on which the snowy sheep were browsing, and the cattle
+lowing.
+
+A field of Indian corn was rustling its broad and vivid green flaggy
+leaves, whilst its fruit, topped by long silky pennons, waving in the
+breeze, seemed to say to me, "Good Englishman, why do your countrymen
+despise my golden spikes? do they think, as they do of my ugly,
+prickly friend the oat, that I am not good enough for man, and fit
+only for the horse or the negro? You know better, and you have often
+eaten of a pound-cake made of my flour, which you said was sweeter and
+better than that of wheat. You have often tasted my puddings; come
+now, Mr. John Bull, were they not very good?"
+
+"Certainly they were, Mr. Maize, and hominy and hoe-cake and all that
+sort of thing are good too; but pray don't ask me to devour you in the
+shape of mush, molasses and butter. Take any shape but that, and my
+firm nerves will never tremble."
+
+Jesting apart, the flour of Indian corn, or maize, is as much
+superior, as nutritive food, to potatoes, as wheat flour is to Indian
+corn. I wish the poor Irish had plenty of it.
+
+The farmers in Upper Canada use it much, but in that wheat country it
+cannot of course be expected that it supersedes flour, properly so
+called. They also use buckwheat flour largely in the shape of
+pancakes, and a most excellent thing it is.
+
+My friend's life was diversified; for, during the season that the
+crops are ripening, he had time to spare to go out on fishing and
+shooting excursions on the Trent, and occasionally in winter a little
+deer-hunting, with, _longo intervallo_, a bear-killing event.
+
+I went to a combined fishing and shooting pic-nickery, and travelled
+from Rainey's mills and Falls all along the valley of the Trent to
+Healy's Falls.
+
+The Trent is a beautiful and most picturesque river, rushing and
+roaring along over a series of falls and rapids for miles together,
+and expanding in noble reaches and little lakes.
+
+Rainey's Falls I have faintly sketched, to show the soft beauty of
+some parts of this river; at Healy's Falls it is more broken.
+
+We went to Crow Bay, just above which the Crow River, from the iron
+mine country of Marmora, runs into the Trent. Here we found two
+friends, brothers, settled in great comfort. They had been about ten
+years in the "Bush," and had excellent farms and houses equal to any I
+have seen so far in the interior, with every comfort around them. In
+one of their pleasure-boats, we embarked for the junction of the
+rivers, on which it is intended to place a town when the country
+becomes more settled.
+
+All is now forest, excepting a very extensive and very flourishing
+settlement of twelve hundred acres, undertaken by a retired
+field-officer in the army, which was a grant about ten years ago for
+his services, and is now worth two thousand pounds, or perhaps more,
+since a bridge has been built by the provincial legislature over the
+Trent, in order to connect the mail route between the townships of
+Seymour-East and Seymour-West, as both are filling up rapidly, and
+land becomes consequently dear and scarce.
+
+The price of land in Seymour at present is, improved farm, if a good
+house and barns are on it, at least two pounds an acre, including
+clearance and forest; Canada Company's land, from fifteen to twenty
+shillings an acre; wild land, in lots of one hundred or two hundred
+acres; Clergy Reserve, or College land, called School land, according
+to situation, from twenty-five shillings an acre upwards to thirty,
+all wild land. Private Proprietors' wild land, in good situations,
+twenty shillings an acre, and very little for less. Along the
+river-banks, none, I believe, is to be had, unless at very high
+prices.
+
+It is intended, no doubt, to complete the navigation of this splendid
+river by and by, and thus holders of land are not very anxious to sell
+at a cheap rate; and as the Board of Works has constructed, at an
+expenditure of upwards of twenty thousand pounds, timber slides, along
+all the worst rapids by which the lumber is taken to the mouth of the
+Trent, a certain importance is now attained for this river which did
+not before exist; but this is of very little use to Seymour, in which,
+new as the township is, all the best pine has already been culled and
+cut down by the lawless hordes of lumberers, who, of course, no
+longer consume any of the farm produce; yet it adds to the importance
+of the river generally.
+
+The first settlers in Seymour were lumber merchants, who, seeing the
+wealth of the country in pine, and oak, and ash, the great fertility
+of the soil, and the facilities afforded everywhere for erecting
+mills, established themselves permanently, and, before the
+agriculturists were induced to think of it, had removed from all land
+within miles of the river the only valuable timber that the township
+contained. Thus one source of profit, and that a very great one to the
+farming settler, has been destroyed, and the enterprising
+timber-merchant has established at convenient distances several
+saw-mills, where his lumber is converted into plank and boards for the
+lower markets, and where he is at all times ready to saw whatever
+timber the farmer has left into boards and planks for him, receiving
+so many feet of timber, and giving so many feet of lumber, as sawed
+timber is called, taking care of himself, of course, in the exchange.
+
+The flour-mills at Percy proceed upon the same principle: a farmer
+brings sacks of grain and receives sacks of flour in exchange, said
+exchange being of course three to one, or more, against him.
+
+Throughout Canada is this truck or barter system pursued, and very
+little money finds its way either into or out of the back townships,
+unless it be the receipts of the lumber-merchant from Quebec or the
+lakes. The lumber-merchant is, therefore, the lord of the Trent, or of
+any other great internal river, whereon are new settlements; and many
+of them have amassed large fortunes.
+
+Thus came timber-slides, instead of canal, upon this splendid river,
+which must, as soon as the Murray Canal, on the Bay of Quinte, is
+undertaken, be also opened to navigation, as by it the richest part of
+Western Canada, both in soil and in minerals, will be reached, and a
+direct communication had in war-time from Kingston, the great naval
+key of the lakes, with Penetangueshene, and Lakes Huron and Superior.
+
+I have not time now, nor would it amuse the reader, to give a detail
+of the project for canalling the Trent, part of which was well
+executed before the troubles of 1837; but the money was voted, and is
+not so enormous as to justify the non-performance of so important a
+public work. The timber-slides I look upon as mere temporary
+expedients.
+
+But let us launch upon Crow Bay, and, stealing silently along, get
+near the wild rice which grows so plentifully on its shallows, and
+where is found the favourite food of the wild duck, which, by the by,
+is no inconsiderable addition to a Canadian dinner-table in the Bush.
+I do not mean, reader, the wild duck, but the wild rice, which said
+duck eats; for, when well made into a rice pudding, I prefer it, and
+so do many who are greater epicures, to either Carolina or East India
+rice.
+
+The wild ducks suffered not from me, for I had no gun, and, after
+crossing the rapid current of the junction of the rivers, we landed
+on the isthmus formed by them, where, striking a light, and making a
+fire, we bivouacked, and one of the party went in search of a deer,
+whose tracks were seen. This is a singular place, covered with dwarf
+oaks, on a sandy soil, and looking for all the world like an English
+park in Chancery.
+
+Almost every oak bore the marks of bears' claws, as it was a favourite
+place for those hermits, who live on acorns, blackberries, wild
+gooseberries and currants, and I dare say raspberries, strawberries,
+and whortle-berries, with which the place abounds in their seasons.
+The boughs of the oaks were also broken by the repeated climbings of
+Bruin, and it must be somewhat dangerous, when he is very hungry, to
+land here and traverse the Bush alone: but we saw none, although we
+walked through it, admiring the rushing river, and occasionally going
+down the steep banks to fish in the rapids for black bass, of which
+several were caught, and, with several wild ducks, formed the day's
+sport, which day's sport was twice or thrice repeated, until I had
+seen as much of the beauty of the wild river and the nature of the
+soil and country as was desirable.
+
+It was somewhat melancholy, on reaching Healy's Falls, which are
+turbulent rapids of the most picturesque character, with an immense
+timber-slide, or broad wooden sloping canal alongside of them, to see
+the clearance in this far solitude formed by the workmen. They had
+built houses, shanties, and sheds, and had lived and loved together
+for many a month, with their families, on this charming spot. Nothing
+was in ruin: all was new, even to the window-glass; and when our
+party, after toiling away through the forest, reached the opening, and
+saw below us the foaming rapids, the grand forest, the rugged banks,
+the timber-slide, and the little wooden town, we thought, here at
+least, is a well chosen hamlet, at which we may rest awhile.
+
+No smoke rose from the chimneys; not a soul appeared to greet us; the
+eagle soared above; the cunning fox, or the murderous wolf, the snake
+and the toad, alone found shelter, where so many human beings had so
+recently congregated, where, from morn till dewy eve, the hum of human
+voices had been incessant, and where toil and labour had won support
+for so many.
+
+Occasionally, the rude and reckless lumberman halts here, whilst his
+timber is passing the slide; the coarse jest and the coarser oath are
+alone heard at the falls of the Trent, save when the neighbouring
+farmer visits them, to procure a day's relaxation from his toils, and
+to view the grandeur of creation, and, we trust, to be thankful for
+the dispensation which has cast his lot in strange places. What must
+be the occasional thoughts of a man educated tenderly and luxuriously
+in England, when he reflects upon the changes and the chances which
+have brought him into contact with the domain of the bear, of the
+snake, and of the lumberer? Dear, dear England, thy green glades, thy
+peaceful villages, thy thousand comforts, the scenes of youth, the
+friends, the parents, who have gone to the land of promise--will
+these memories not intrude? No where in this wonderful world do they
+come upon the mind with more solemn impressiveness than in the wild
+woods of Canada.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+  Prospects of the Emigrant in Canada--Caution against Ardent Spirits
+  and excessive Smoking--Militia of Canada--Population--The mass of the
+  Canadians soundly British--Rapidly increasing prosperity of the North
+  American Colonies, compared with the United States--Kingston--Its
+  commercial importance--Conclusion.
+
+
+It is time to take leave of the reader, and to say again some few
+parting words about the prospects which an emigrant will have before
+him in leaving the sacred homes of Britain, hallowed by the memories
+of ages, for a world and a country so new as Western Canada.
+
+If the well-educated emigrant is determined to try his fortunes in
+Canada, let him choose either the eastern townships, in Lower Canada,
+or almost any portions of Canada West. I premise that he must have a
+little money at command; and, if possible, that either he, or some
+member of his family, have an annual income of at least fifty pounds,
+and that the young are healthy, and determined not to drink whiskey.
+
+Drink not ardent spirits, for it is not necessary to strengthen or
+cheer you in labouring in the Bush. I am not an advocate for an
+educated man joining Temperance Societies, and look upon them as very
+great humbugs in many instances; but, with the uneducated, it is
+another affair altogether. If an educated man has not sufficient
+confidence in himself, and wishes to reduce himself to the degraded
+condition of an habitual drunkard, all the temperance pledges and
+sanctimonious tea-parties in the world will not eventually prevent him
+from wallowing in the mire. Father Matthew deserves canonizing for his
+bringing the Irish peasantry into the condition of a temperate people,
+but there religion is the vehicle; with Protestants such a vehicle
+should never be attempted, unless the clergy once more are the
+directors of conscience and of action, and could conscientiously
+absolve the taker of the pledge, should he fail. With the diversity
+of sects now existing in Protestantism, this would be obviously
+impracticable, and the attempt lead to a result one can hardly imagine
+without horror. No oath ought to be administered to a Protestant on
+such a subject; as, if a believer of that class of Christians should
+voluntarily take one and then break it, how much greater would his sin
+be than the sin of one who really and truly is convinced that a human
+being could pardon him, should he perjure himself!
+
+The effects of drinking spirits in Canada are beyond anything I had
+imagined, until the report of the census of the Lower province for
+1843, and that of Dr. Rees upon the lunatic asylum at Toronto, in the
+Upper, were published. The population of Lower Canada was 693,649, of
+which there were--
+
+                 Males. Females.  Total.
+Deaf and dumb     447      278     725
+Blind             273      250     523
+Idiots            478      472     950
+Lunatics          156      152     308
+                 ----     ----    ----
+Total            1354     1152    2506
+
+The proportion of deaf and dumb to the whole population is as 1 to
+about 957: a greater proportion than prevails throughout all Europe (1
+to 1537), United States (1 in 2000), or the whole world throughout (1
+in 1556.)
+
+The census of Upper Canada, taken a year before, gives the total
+population as 506,505. Of these there were--
+
+                 Males.  Females.  Total.
+Deaf and dumb     222      132      354
+Blind             114       89      203
+Idiots            221      178      393
+Lunatics          241      478      719
+                 ----     ----     ----
+    Total         798      877     1669
+
+
+Thus, of a total population of 1,200,154, in 1833, there were 1027
+persons confined in the provincial lunatic asylums, and perhaps a
+great many more out of them, as they have only just come into
+operation, and are still very inefficient. The idiots, it will appear,
+amounted to 1349.
+
+In the whole North American continent, Canada is only exceeded by the
+States of New Hampshire and Connecticut, in the lists of insanity;
+and, to show that intemperance as well as climate has something to do
+with this melancholy result, I shall only state, without entering into
+details, that a well-informed resident has calculated that, when the
+province contained the above number of inhabitants, the consumption of
+alcoholic liquors, chiefly whiskey, was, excluding children under
+fifteen years of age, five gallons a year for every inhabitant;
+whilst, in 1843, in England and Wales, where the most accurate returns
+of the Excise prove the fact, it is only 0.69 of a gallon; in
+Scotland, 2.16; in Ireland, 0.64; and the total consumed by each
+individual, not excluding those under fifteen, is only 0.82 per annum
+for the three kingdoms. If the children under fifteen in Canada are to
+be included, still the consumption of spirit is awful, being 2-3/4
+gallons for each; but it must be much higher, since the Excise is not
+regulated as at home.
+
+That such excessive drinking prevails in Canada may be attributed
+partly to the cheapness of a vile mixture, called Canadian whiskey,
+and partly to climate, with a thermometer ranging to 120°, and with
+such rapid alternations. In Canada, also, man really conquers the
+earth by the sweat of his brow; for there is no harder labour than the
+preparation of timber, and the subduing of a primeval forest in a
+country of lakes and swamps.
+
+I have an instance of the effect of excessive drinking daily before my
+door, in the person of a man of respectable family and of excellent
+talents, who, after habitually indulging himself with at last the
+moderate quantum of _sixty_ glasses of spirits and water a day, now
+roams the streets a confirmed idiot, but, strange to say, never
+touches the cause of his malady. Are, therefore, not idiocy, madness,
+and perhaps two-thirds of the dreadful calamities to which human
+nature is subject here, owing to whiskey? I have seen an Irish
+labourer on the works take off at a draught a tumbler of raw whiskey,
+made from Indian corn or oats, to refresh himself; this would kill
+most men unaccustomed to it; but a corroded stomach it only
+stimulates.
+
+Canada is a fine place for drunkards; it is their paradise--"Get drunk
+for a penny; clean straw for nothing" there. Think, my dear reader, of
+whiskey at tenpence a gallon--cheaper than water from the New River in
+London. Father Matthew, your principles are much wanted on this side
+of Great Britain.
+
+Then, smoking to excess is another source of immense evil in the
+Backwoods. A man accustomed only to a cigar gets at last accustomed to
+the lowest and vilest of tobacco. I used to laugh at some of my
+friends in Seymour, when I saw them with a broken tobacco-pipe stuck
+in the ribbon of their straw hats. These were men who had paraded in
+their day the shady side of Pall Mall. They found a pipe a solace, and
+cigars were not to be had for love or money. "Why do you not put your
+pipe at least out of sight?" said I.
+
+"It is the Seymour Arms' crest," responded my good-natured gentlemen
+farmers, "and we wear it accordingly."
+
+Smoking all day, from the hour of rising, is, I actually believe, more
+injurious to the nerves than hard drinking. It paralyzes exertion. I
+never saw an Irish labourer, with his hod and his pipe, mounting a
+ladder, but I was sure to discover that he was an idler. I never had a
+groom that smoked much who took proper care of my horses; and I never
+knew a gentleman seriously addicted to smoking, who cared much for any
+thing beyond self. A Father Matthew pledge against the excessive use
+of tobacco would be of much more benefit among the labouring Irish
+than King James his Counterblast proved among the English.
+
+The emigrant of education will naturally inquire, if, in case of war,
+he will be under the necessity of leaving his farm for the defence of
+the country.
+
+The militia laws are now undergoing revision, in order to create an
+efficient force.
+
+The militia of Western Canada are well composed, and have become a
+most formidable body of 80,000 men,[1] and are not to be classed with
+rude and undisciplined masses. In 1837, they rushed to the defence of
+their soil; and, so eager were they to attain a knowledge of the
+duties of a soldier, that, in the course of four months, many
+divisions were able to go through field-days with the regulars; and
+the embodied regiments, being clothed in scarlet, were always supposed
+by American visitors to be of the line.
+
+There is a military spirit in this people, which only requires
+development and a good system of officer and sub-officer to make it
+shine. Any attempt to create partizan officers must be repressed, and
+merit and stake in the country alone attended to.
+
+The population of the British provinces cannot now be less than nearly
+two millions; and it only requires judgment to bring forward the
+Canadian French to insure their acting against an enemy daring to
+invade the country, as they so nobly did in 1812. I subjoin the latest
+correct census, 1844, of the Franco-Canadian race, as it will now be
+interesting in a high degree to the reader in Europe.
+
+[Footnote 1: Eastern and Western Canada comprise an able-bodied
+militia of 160,000.]
+
+It is taken from a French Canadian journal of talent and resources,
+and agrees with the published authorities on this subject.
+
+_Population of Lower Canada in 1831 and 1844._--The following table of
+the comparative population of Lower Canada at the periods
+above-mentioned first appeared in the _Canadien_.
+
+
+                         1831.      1844.
+Saguenay                 8,385     13,445
+Montmorency (1)          8,089      8,434
+Quebec                  36,173     45,676
+Portneuf                13,656     15,922
+Champlain                6,991     10,404
+St. Maurice             16,909     20,594
+Berthier                20,225     26,700
+Leinster (2)            22,122     25,300
+Terrebonne              16,623     20,646
+Deux Montagnes          20,905     26,835
+Outaouais                4,786     11,340
+Montreal                43,773     64,306
+Vaudreuil               13,111     16,616
+Beauharnois             16,859     28,580
+Huntingdon (3)          29,916     36,204
+Rouville                18,115     20,098
+Chambly                 15,483     17,171
+Vercheres               12,819     12,968
+Richelieu               16,146     20,983
+St. Hyacinthe           13,366     21,734
+Shefford                 5,087      9,996
+Missisqoui               8,801     10,875
+Stanstead               10,306     11,846
+Sherbrooke               7,104     13,302
+Drummond                 3,566      9,374
+Vamaska                  9,495     11,645
+Nicolet                 12,509     16,280
+Lothiniere               9,191     13,697
+Megantic                 2,283      6,730
+Dorchester (4)          23,816     34,826
+Bellechasse             13,529     14,540
+L'Islet                 13,518     16,990
+Kamouraska              14,557     17,465
+Rimouski                10,061     17,577
+Gaspé                    5,003      7,458
+Bonaventure              8,109      8,230
+                       _______    _______
+       Total           511,919    678,590
+In 1844                           678,590
+In 1831                           511,919
+                                  _______
+Augmentation in 13 years          166,671
+
+
+The increase during the interval between the years cited is about
+32-1/2 per cent. It would no doubt have been more considerable but
+for the cholera, which in 1832 and 1834 decimated the population. The
+troubles of 1837-8 likewise contributed to check any increase; as, at
+those periods, numbers emigrated from this province to the United
+States, and the usual immigration from Europe hither was also
+materially interfered with.
+
+Assuming 1,500,000 as the present actual population of the Canadas, we
+shall examine the strength of British North America from published
+returns in 1845, or the best authorities.
+
+
+
+                                   CHIEF CITIES.     POPULATION
+  POPULATION, 1845.                                    OF 1845.
+
+Canada            1,500,000       {Montreal             60,000
+                                  {Quebec               30,000
+                                  {Kingston             12,000
+                                  {Toronto              20,000
+
+New Brunswick       200,000       {Fredericton           6,000
+                                  {St. John             31,000
+
+Nova Scotia,}       250,000       {Halifax              16,000
+   including}                     {Sydney               ------
+ Cape Breton}
+
+Newfoundland        100,000        St. John's           20,000
+
+Prince Edward's}
+ Island and the}     45,000        Charlotte Town       ------
+ Magdalen Isles}
+                  ---------
+Total Population  2,095,000.
+
+A serviceable militia of 80,000 young men may, therefore, without
+distressing the population, be easily raised in British North America,
+with a reserve sufficient to keep an army of 40,000 able-bodied
+soldiers in Canada always in the field; and, if necessary, 100,000
+could be assembled at any point, for any given purpose.
+
+The Great Gustavus said that he would not desire a larger military
+force for defensive purposes than 40,000 men fit for actual service,
+to accomplish any military object, as such a force would always enable
+him to choose his positions. Two such armies of effective men could be
+easily maintained in the two Canadas, and concentrated rapidly and
+with certainty upon any given point, notwithstanding the extent of
+frontier; and the Canadians are much more essentially soldiers than
+the people of the United States, without any reference to valour or
+contempt of danger: whilst they would be fighting for everything dear
+to them, and the aggressors for mere extension of territory, and to
+accomplish the fixed object of destroying all monarchical
+institutions.
+
+I have already said that there is no sympathy of the Irish settlers in
+Canada with the native Americans, and the best proof of this is the
+public demonstrations upon St. Patrick's day at Montreal, Kingston,
+and Toronto, where the two parties, Protestant and Catholic, exhibited
+no party emblems, no flags but loyal ones, and where the ancient
+enmity between the rival houses of Capulet and Montague, the Green and
+the Orange, appeared to have vanished before the approaching arrogant
+demands of a newly-erected Imperium.
+
+Independence may exist to a great extent in Canada. Gourlay figured
+it, twenty years ago, by placing the word in capitals on the arch
+formed by the prismatic hues of the cloud-spray of Niagara. He could
+get no better ground than a fog-bank to hoist his flag upon, and the
+vision and the visionary have alike been swallowed up in oblivion.
+
+Canada does not hate democracy so very totally and unequivocally as my
+excellent friend, Sir Francis Head, so tersely observed, but Canada
+repudiates annexation.
+
+That a great portion of the population of this rapidly advancing
+colony feel a vast pride in imagining themselves about to become
+ranked among the nations of the world, I entertain not the shadow of a
+doubt; but that the physical and moral strength of Canada desire
+immediate separation from England, or annexation to the republic
+presided over by President Polk, is about as absurd a chimera as that
+of Gourlay and the spray of Niagara. The rainbow there, splendid as it
+is, owes its colours to the sun.
+
+The mass in Canada is soundly British; and, having weighed the
+relative advantages and disadvantages of British principles and laws
+with those of the United States, the beam of the latter has mounted
+into the thin air of Mr. Gourlay's vision. The greatest absurdity at
+present discoverable is in the ideas of unfortunate individuals, who
+imagine themselves placed near the pivot desired by the philosopher,
+and that they possess the lever which is to move the solid globe to
+any position into which it may suit them to upheave it.
+
+A poor man by origin, and with some talent, suddenly becomes the Sir
+Oracle of his village; and, because the Governor-General does not
+advance his _protégé_ or connexions, or because he does not imagine
+that the welfare of the province hinges upon his support, turns sulky,
+and obtaining, by very easy means, a seat in the Assembly, becomes all
+at once an ultra on the opposite side of the question.
+
+In all new countries ambition gets the better of discretion, but
+fortunately soon finds its natural level: the violent ultra-tory, and
+the violent ultra-demagogue sink alike, after a few years of
+excitement, into the moth-eaten receptacle of newspaper renown, alike
+unheeded, and alike forgotten, by a newer and more enlightened
+generation, who find that, to the cost of the real interest of the
+people, the mouthing orator, the agitator, the exciter, is not the
+patriot.
+
+Canada, although emphatically a new country, is rapidly becoming a
+most important one, and increasing with a vigour not contemplated in
+England. It is proved, by ample statistical details, that the United
+States is behind-hand, _ceteris paribus_, in the race.
+
+The thirteen colonies declared their independence in 1783, now only
+sixty-three years, and amply within the memory of men. The following
+data for 1784 may be compared to 1836:--
+
+                    1784.
+
+                    Imports.     Exports.   Population.   Shipping
+                                                           Tons.
+Nova Scotia     }
+Cape Breton     }
+St. John's      }    £75,000      £3,500         32,000     12,000
+Prince Edward's }
+   Island       }
+Canada               500,000     150,000        113,000     95,000
+Newfoundland          80,000      70,000         20,000     20,000
+                    --------    --------        -------    -------
+           Total    £655,000    £223,500        165,000    127,000
+
+                    1836.
+
+_Or just before the disturbances in Canada, and before the Union._
+
+                    Imports.     Exports.   Population.   Shipping
+                                                           Tons.
+Nova Scotia      £1,245,000     £935,000        150,000    374,000
+Canada            2,580,000    1,321,750      1,200,000    348,000
+Newfoundland        632,576      850,344         70,000     98,000
+Cape Breton          80,000       90,000         35,000     70,000
+Prince Edward's
+  Island             46,000       90,000         32,000     23,800
+New Brunswick       250,000      700,000        164,000    347,000
+                  ---------   ----------      ---------  ---------
+       Total     £4,833,576   £3,987,094      1,651,000  1,260,800
+
+
+THE UNITED STATES.
+
+                    Imports.     Exports.   Population.   Shipping
+                                                          Tons.
+1784             £4,250,000   £1,000,000      3,000,000    500,000
+1836            162,000,000  121,000,000     15,000,000  2,000,000
+
+
+Thus the increase in shipping alone to the North American colonies,
+compared with the United States, was as _ten_ to _four_, and the
+increase of population as _ten_ to _three_.
+
+In imports, the United States, compared with the colonies in that
+period, increased as 40 to 9, exports 120 to 19; but then the
+Americans had the whole world for customers, and the colonies Great
+Britain only, until very lately, and then, even in the West India
+trade, they could scarcely compete with their rivals; whereas the
+Americans started with four times the shipping, nearly double the
+population, six times the import, and four times the export trade, and
+the people of the republic had already occupied at least ten great
+commercial ports, whilst Quebec, Halifax, and St. John, were yet in
+infancy as mercantile _entrepôts_.
+
+Passing over all but Western Canada, we shall examine the state of
+that province after the rebellion of 1839, when Lord Durham informed
+us that
+
+The population was        513,000,
+Value of fixed and  }              }An increase of two
+  assessed property }  £5,043,253  }millions and a
+                                   }quarter
+                                   }in ten years.
+Cultivated acres        1,738,500
+Grist-mills                   678
+Saw-mills                     933
+Cattle                    400,000
+
+
+and yet Upper Canada was only a howling wilderness in 1784.
+
+It is now supposed, upon competent authority, that the British
+possessions north of New York contain not fewer than two millions and
+a quarter of inhabitants, a fixed and floating capital of seventy-five
+million pounds, a public revenue of a million and a quarter, with a
+tonnage of not less than two millions and a quarter, manned, including
+the lake craft, steam-boats, and fishing-vessels, by one hundred and
+fifty thousand sailors; and this Western Britain consumes annually
+seven millions of pounds sterling of British goods.
+
+The Inspector-General of Revenue for Canada alone gives us the
+following data:--
+
+1845.
+
+Revenue of Canada     £524,637
+Expenditure            500,839.
+
+
+Now let us see what the Standing Army and Militia of the United States
+are in 1845:
+
+    Standing Army--7,590 officers and men, including all ranks.
+
+    Militia--627 Generals, 2,670 Staff-officers, 13,813 Field-officers,
+    44,938 Company-officers, and 1,385,645 men.
+
+    Naval Force--11 ships of the line, 14 first-class frigates, 17
+    sloops-of-war, 8 brigs, 9 schooners, 6 steamers: with 67 captains,
+    94 commanders, 324 lieutenants, 133 passed midshipmen, 416
+    midshipmen, and 31 masters.
+
+The crews being formed of European sailors chiefly, no estimate is
+given of sufficient authenticity to depend upon as to the native
+citizens employed afloat in the services of the State.
+
+The Militia appears a fearful Xerxian force, but it is really of no
+consequence whatever except as a protective one for the purposes of
+invasion, being quite met by the militia of the British provinces, as
+no larger army than 20,000 men can be effectually moved or subsisted
+on such an extensive frontier as Canada, and that only by an immense
+sacrifice of money.
+
+Having thus given a glimpse at the state of affairs, I must leave my
+readers for the present, after a little talk about the city of
+Kingston.
+
+Kingston, instead of suffering, as predicted, by the removal of the
+seat of government, having been thrown on her own resources, is rising
+fast.
+
+Her naval and commercial harbours are being strongly fortified. The
+public buildings are important and handsome.
+
+The Town Hall is probably the finest edifice of the kind on the
+continent of America, and cost £30,000, containing two splendid rooms
+of vast size, Post-office, Custom-house, Commercial Newsroom, shops,
+and a complete Market Place, with Mayor's Court and Policeoffice, and
+a lofty cupola, commanding a view of immense extent.
+
+There are three English churches, built of stone, a Scots church of
+the same material, several dissenting places of worship, and a
+magnificent cathedral, almost equal in size to that at Montreal, for
+Roman Catholics, with a smaller church attached, a seminary for
+educating the priests, a nunnery, and an Hotel Dieu, conducted by
+Sisters of Charity; also an immense building for a public hospital,
+extensive barracks for troops, and several private houses of inferior
+importance, with four banks.
+
+There are ten daily first-class steamers running to and from Kingston,
+and about thirty smaller steamers and propellers, with a fleet of two
+hundred schooners and sailing barges. The navigation is open from the
+1st of April until late in November.
+
+To show the trade of this rising city, now containing near twelve
+thousand inhabitants, I append a table of its Exports and Imports, for
+1845.
+
+IMPORTS AND DUTIES, AT KINGSTON, FOR 1845.
+
+-----------------------+----------+---------------+--------------+--------------
+  Articles Imported.   |  Number  | Value at the  |  Amount of   |   Remarks.
+                       |    or    |   place of    | all Duties,  |
+                       | quantity.| importation,  |  Currency.   |
+                       |          |   Currency.   |              |
+-----------------------+----------+---------------+--------------+--------------
+                       |          |     £   s.  d.|    £   s.  d.|
+Animals--Cows and      |          |               |              |
+  Heifers           No.|     12   |    54  10   0 |   14  12   0 |
+ Horses, Mares,  }   " |          |               |              |
+ Geldings,       }   " |     13   |   231   5   0 |   23  14   6 |
+ Colts, Fillies &}   " |          |               |              |
+ Foals           }     |     21   |   222  10   0 |    .   .   . |Of travellers.
+ Lambs               " |     70   |    16   0   0 |    3   5   2 |
+ Oxen, Bulls, Steers   |    262   | 1,514   0   0 |  406  19   6 |
+ Pigs (sucking)      " |      1   |     0   5   0 |    0   0   7 |
+ Swine and Hogs      " |  1,212   | 3,474  10   2 |  368  13   0 |
+ Sheep               " |    337   |    90   8   9 |   41   0   0 |
+Anchovies and Sardines,|          |               |              |
+ in oil                |      .   |     3   0   6 |    0   7  10 |
+Ashes           barrels|     67   |   279   7   9 |   13   9   8 |
+Bark                   |      .   |    99  16   0 |    4  17   8 |
+Berries, Nuts,         |          |               |              |
+ Vegetables, for dying |      .   |   156  16   5 |   12  13   9 |
+Biscuit and Crackers   |      .   |   111  11  10 |   10   4   5 |
+Books                  |      .   | 1,329   6   1 |  150  12   9 |Private
+ Do.                   |      .   |    20   0   0 |    .   .   . | library
+Candles--Sperm      lb.|  3,770   |   310   6  10 |   84  13   3 | from Europe.
+ Wax                 " |  3,457   |   163  11  10 |   28  19   3 |Bonded for
+ Other kinds         " | 13,800   |   856  11   3 |    .   .   . | lower ports.
+Carriages, Vehicles No.|     28   |   220   0   0 |   18  13   5 |Of travellers.
+    Do.                |     20   |   256   5   0 |    .   .   . |
+Clocks and Watches     |      .   | 1,046   7   1 |  167   7   2 |
+Coals             tons.|  373 0 76|   514  12  11 |   23  17   1 |
+Cocoa              cwt.|      1 20|     1  16   0 |    0   2  11 |
+Coffee--Green     cwt.{|  288 8  1|   625  17  10 |  247   2   4 |Remov'd under
+                      {|   27 1  9|    66   0   0 |    .   .   . | bond to
+ Roasted           "   |   13 1  1|    30  10  10 |   19   1  11 | Hamilton.
+ Ground            "   |    8 0 20|    15  19   9 |   21   1   8 |
+Coin and Bullion       |      .   |22,500   0   0 |    .   .   . |
+Cordage            "   |  193 0 13|   535   6   8 |   61  16   1 |
+Corks             gross|   1086   |    80  11   8 |    9   6   0 |
+Cotton Manufactures    |      .   | 1,728  16   1 |  200   1   0 |
+Cotton Wool            |      .   |   236   0   0 |   11  16   0 |
+Drugs                  |      .   |   327  13   6 |   17   0  10 |
+Extracts, Essences and |          |               |              |
+ Perfumery             |      .   |    92   1   3 |   12   0   0 |
+Fanning and Bark Mills |     10   |    33  16   6 |    4  18  11 |
+Fins and Skins, the    |          |               |              |
+ produce of creatures  |          |               |              |
+ living in the sea     |      .   |    33  13   9 |    7  11   0 |
+Fish--Fresh, not       |          |               |              |
+ described             |      .   |   260  11   3 |    6  11   7 |
+ Oysters, Lobsters and |          |               |              |
+  Turtles              |      .   | 1,100  14   9 |    7  11   0 |
+ Salted or dried   cwt.|  154 0 19|   127   4   0 |   20   1   4 |
+ Pickled         barls.|     30   |    54  11   4 |    7  16  11 |
+Flour, Wheat,         {| 8,396-1/2| 9,296  18   3 |1,276  16   9 |Supplied
+ barrels              {|    204   |   224   8   0 |    6   4   1 | H. M.
+ of 196 lb.           {| 44,151   |54,919   7   6 |    .   .   . | Commissariat.
+Fruit, Almonds       " | 15,115   |   137  17   6 |   31   8   7 |
+ Apples         bushels|13,966-1/2| 1,300   3   7 |  424  16   7 |
+ Do. Dried           " |    163   |    36  14   7 |   11   7   4 |
+ Currants          cwt.|  47 3 2 4|   105  10   9 |   18   2   1 |
+ Figs                " |  20 2 20 |    53   7   2 |    8   8   1 |
+ Nuts              lb.{|  9,421   |   140  17   1 |   29  10   4 |
+                      {|    610   |     6   2   0 |    .   .   . |Bonded for
+ Pears          bushels|   421-3/4|    59  12   8 |   25  12   6 | removal to
+ Prunes             lb.|    543   |    20  12   6 |    3  11   6 | Hamilton.
+ Raisins in boxes    " | 34,411   |   788   9   8 |  205  19   6 |
+ Do., otherwise than   |          |               |              |
+  in boxes          lb.|  7,990   |   127   6   6 |   25   7  10 |
+ Unenumerated        " |      .   |   999  12   7 |   95  18   9 |
+Fur Skins, or Peltries,|          |               |              |
+ undressed             |      .   |    22  16   6 |    1   2   5 |
+Glass Manufactures     |      .   |   860   3  11 |  168   0   1 |
+Grain, &c.--Barley qrs.|   373-3/4|   369   4   9 |   68   4   2 |
+ Maize, or Ind. Corn,  |          |               |              |
+  quarters, 480 lb.    | 2,617-1/2| 2,717  13   9 |  477  15   9 |
+ Oats          quarters|    87-1/2|    43  13   9 |  10 12 11-1/2|
+ Rye              "    |    69-3/4|    51  19   7 |  12 13  6-1/2|
+ Beans            "    |      2   |     4   8   0 |    0   7   3 |
+ Meal of the above grs.|          |               |              |
+  and of Wheat not     |          |               |              |
+  bolted, per 196 lb.  |    10-1/2|     4  10   0 |    .  15   6 |
+ Wheat         quarters| 2,597-1/4| 4,647  17   4 |  474   0   0 |
+ Bran & Shorts     cwt.|    4 0  0|     3   7   3 |    0   1   3 |
+Gums and Resins        |      .   |   181   1   5 |    9   3   3 |
+Hardware               |      .   | 3,883   2  10 |  466  11   4 |
+Hay                tons|    34-1/2|    56   1   3 |   12  11  10 |
+Hemp, Flax, & Tow     {|4,879 1 18| 2,188  12   7 |   21  17   9 |
+                  cwt.{|1,540 2  0|   838  10   0 |    .   .   . |Bonded for
+Hides, Raw          No.|    755   |   338   3   9 |    3   7   8 | lower ports.
+Hops                lb.|    936   |    26   0   6 |   15   5   6 |
+India Rubber Boots &   |          |               |              |
+ Shoes            pairs|  1,197   |   218   1   7 |   45   6   6 |
+Leather--Goat Skins,   |          |               |              |
+ tanned, or in any     |          |               |              |
+ way dressed       doz.|      4   |     6  12   0 |    1   9   7 |
+ Lamb and Sheep        |          |               |              |
+  Skins            doz.|    172   |   117   9  10 |   30  19   8 |
+ Calf Skins, do.    lb.|   857-1/4|    90  18   5 |   29  13  10 |
+ Kid Skins, do.      " |  1,024   |    92  18   9 |   10   6  11 |
+ Harness Leather     " |12,641-1/2|   347   1   0 |  141  18   3 |
+ Upper Leather       " | 4,109-3/4|   271   7  11 |   51   9   3 |
+ Sole Leather        " |74,931    | 2,561   5   3 |  672   4   6 |
+ Leather not described |          |   334  16   5 |   28  17   6 |
+Leather Manufactures   |          |               |              |
+Boots, Shoes, Calashes |          |               |              |
+ Women's Boots,        |          |               |              |
+  Shoes, & Calashes    |          |               |              |
+  of Leather doz. prs. |    52-1/2|   116   1   3 |   29  12   9 |
+ Girls' Boots, Shoes,  |          |               |              |
+  and Calashes, under  |          |               |              |
+  7 in. in length.     |          |               |              |
+  of Leather doz. prs. |    38    |    38  12   3 |    8  14   6 |
+ Girls' Boots & Shoes  |          |               |              |
+  of Silk, Satin, Jean |          |               |              |
+  or other stuff, Kid, |          |               |              |
+  Morocco   doz. prs.  |    14    |    20  14   7 |    3  12   2 |
+ Men's Boots of Leather|          |               |              |
+                  pairs| 2,047    |   494  15   7 |  109  14   6 |
+ Men's Shoes, do.   "  |   161    |    29   7   1 |   11  18   2 |
+ Boys' Boots under 8   |          |               |              |
+  inches long     pairs|    38    |     7   0   0 |    3   6   3 |
+ Boys' Shoes, do.   "  |    28    |     5   8   7 |    1  13   1 |
+Leather Manufactures   |          |               |              |
+ not described         |          |   330  19   2 |   38   4   6 |
+Linen Manufactures     |          |    82   6   0 |    9   9  11 |
+Liquids--Cider and     |          |               |              |
+ Perry         gallons | 5,679    |    61  15   5 |   32   1   7 |
+ Vinegar          "    | 2,670    |    87   2   2 |   44   4   0 |
+Maccaroni and          |          |               |              |
+ Vermicelli        lb. |   493    |    13  18   2 |     3  1   1 |
+Machinery              |          | 1,478  14   7 |   225 11   0 |
+Mahogany and Hardwood, |          |               |              |
+ unmanufactured        |          |               |              |
+ for Furniture         |          |   144  19   5 |     1  9   2 |
+Manures of all kinds   |          |    29  12   6 |     0  1   0 |
+Medicines              |          |   642   1   6 |    55  6   4 |
+Molasses & Treacle cwt | 193 2  8 |   141  10   6 |    47  1   7 |
+Oakum               "  |     0 22 |     1   4   9 |     0  1   9 |
+Oils--Olive, in casks  |          |               |              |
+               gallons |   700    |   142   9   0 |    19 17  11 |
+ Do. in jars and       |          |               |              |
+  bottles      gallons |    56-1/2|    24   2   1 |     4  8   1 |
+ Lard             "    |   690    |   130   9   4 |    19  4   2 |
+ Linseed, raw or       |          |               |              |
+  boiled          "    | 2,367    |   329   2   5 |    37  3   4 |
+ Oils, Vegetable,      |          |               |              |
+  Volatile, Chemical,  |          |               |              |
+  and essential gallons|    131   |    58  18   3 |    6   9   9 |
+ Palm              "   |    150   |    23   6   6 |    1   2  11 |
+ The produce of Fish   |          |               |              |
+  and creatures living |          |               |              |
+  in the sea      gals.| 8,196-1/2| 1,941  12   7 |  309  16   2 |
+ Unenumerated       "  | 2,957-1/4|   460   7   2 |   52  16   6 |
+Paper Manufactures,    |          |               |              |
+ other than Books &    |          |               |              |
+ Playing Cards         |      .   |   892  12   2 |  101  19   2 |
+Pickles and Sauces     |      .   |    12   8  10 |    1  12   4 |
+Playing Cards     packs|      .   |     8   7   7 |    1   7   0 |
+Potatoes        bushels|   172-1/2|    12   5   3 |    2  12   6 |
+Poultry and Game, live |      .   |     9   1   0 |    0  18   1 |
+ Ditto, dead           |      .   |    63   2   4 |    8   9   9 |
+Provisions--Butter cwt.|    3 3  9|    13   1   3 |    2  16  11 |
+ Cheese                |  248 2 22|   400   9   3 |  113   9   3 |
+ Eggs             dozen|    236   |     5  18   0 |    0  16   6 |
+ Lard              cwt.|   40 1 18|    80  18   0 |    3  19   5 |
+ Meats--Bacon and      |          |               |              |
+  Hams             cwt.|   47 2 17|    78  18  13 |   23  2 8-1/2|
+ Ditto, other Meats,   |          |               |              |
+  salted, &c.     cwt. |14,035 2 3|25,137  11   6 |4,274   9   7 |
+ Ditto              "  |4,237 2 20| 5,656   0   0 |    .   .   . |
+ Ditto, Fresh       "  |  261 3 15|   264  14   9 |   63  14   0 |Bonded-for
+ Rice               "  |  282 2  0|   350  17   4 |   17   9   2 |lower ports
+ Salt  barls of 280 lb.|    975   |   255  14   2 |  148   5   8 |
+ Sausages & Puddings   |      .   |     0   3   4 |    0   0   6 |
+Seeds              cwt.|      .   |   123  15   3 |   10  10   1 |
+Silk Manufactures      |      .   |   136   9  10 |   26  13   4 |
+Soap               cwt.|   36 2 25|   131   5   9 |   14  15   7 |
+Spices--Cassia      lb.|   305-1/2|    17   9   0 |    3  15   9 |
+ Cinnamon            " |    160   |     9  18   6 |    2   0   3 |
+ Cloves              " |     46   |     3  11  10 |    0  11   9 |
+ Nutmegs             " |      2   |     0  13   9 |    0   1   4 |
+ Pepper of all kinds " |  1,254   |    34   1   4 |    4  10   9 |
+Spirits and cordials,  |          |               |              |
+  except Rum--         |          |               |              |
+ Not exceeding proof,  |          |               |              |
+                gallons|     32   |     4  10  0  |    4   7   7 |
+ Over proof        "   |     16   |     2   5  0  |    2   3   9 |
+ Sweetened or mixed    |      7   |    10  17  6  |    1   5   6 |
+Sugar--Refined     cwt.|55 2 6-1/2|   164   3  9  |   95  18   3 |
+ Unrefined & Bastard   |2,520 0 16| 3,698   0  8  |2,199   4   6 |
+Syrups                 |    137   |    45   4  6  |    7   9   2 |Do.
+Stearine            lb.|  3,681   |   184   1  0  |    .   .   . |
+Tallow             cwt.|3,086 1 6-1/2 5,385  17  6|   53   1   3 |
+Tea                 lb.|196,268   |18,110   9   8 |1,999  16   8 |
+Tobacco                |          |               |              |
+ --Unmanufactured    " |  1,923   |   222  18   9 |    .   .   . |
+  Do.                  |    357   |    13   2   2 |    2   7   2 |
+ Manufactured        " |202,508-1/2 4,291  13   0 |1,205   8  11 |
+ Segars              " |  1,627   |   550  12  10 |  235  12  11 |
+ Snuff               " |  1,981   |    87  19   7 |   46   6   8 |
+Trees, Shrubs, Plants, |          |               |              |
+ and Roots             |      .   |   222   0  11 |    8  17   6 |
+Settlers' Goods    lots|      3   |    26   5   0 |    .   .   . |
+Vegetables, except     |          |               |              |
+ potatoes, fresh       |      .   |   334   6   6 |   36  13   4 |
+Wines      doz. gallons|1,162-1/4 |   419   4   9 |  112  16  11 |
+Wood, except Saw Logs  |          |               |              |
+ & Mahogany. Pine,     |          |               |              |
+ White       cubic feet| 11,750   |   147  12   7 |   17  17   3 |
+ Oak              "    |  1,497   |    25   0   0 |    5   0   5 |
+ Staves, Puncheon, or  |          |               |              |
+  W. I.        Standard|          |               |              |
+  std.   M.       "    |     57   |   609  13   5 |   86   7   0 |
+  White Oak       "    |    435   | 1,442   3   2 |  263   0   1 |
+ Handspikes        doz.|      5   |     1  17   6 |    0   1   6 |
+ Oars             pairs|     17   |     3  14   3 |    0   5   5 |
+ Planks, Boards, sawed |          |               |              |
+  Lumber           feet| 48,475   |    89   4   0 |   17  13   0 |
+Woollen Manufactures   |      .   | 1,097  12  10 |  124   7   7 |
+Wood. Firewood,   cords|  397-1/2 |    66  12   3 |    3   6   0 |
+All other articles not |          |               |              |
+ included under any of |          |               |              |
+ the foregoing heads   |      .   | 6,502  12   3 |  555   7   1 |
+                       |          +---------------+--------------+--------------
+  Totals, Currency     |          |211,705  0  11 |19,917  17  0 |
+
+[Amount of duty on Imports bonded for lower ports - £8036  0  8]
+
+Below, we give a return of the amount and value of goods imported at
+this Port through the United States, for the benefit of drawback. The
+importations under this law have not been large, but the return shows
+that a material saving has been effected under this operation. For the
+return we are indebted to the politeness of the late collector, Mr.
+Kirkpatrick.
+
+AGGREGATE OF IMPORTS INTO KINGSTON FOR BENEFIT
+OF DRAWBACK.
+
+--------------+------------------------+-------------+-------------+------------
+  Articles.   |Quantity in Weight, &c. |    Value.   |    Duties.  |  Drawback.
+--------------+------------------------+-------------+-------------+------------
+              |                        |    £  s.  d.|    £  s.  d.|  Dollars.
+Cigars        | 1,281 lbs.             |   404  8  4 |   184  3  3 |   502 43
+Almonds       | 5,964 "                |   101 19  4 |    41  1  3 |   159 75
+Currants      | 5,259 "                |   105 10  9 |    18 12  1 |   120 81
+Raisins       |39,216 "                |   844 11  4 |   217 18  1 | 1,059 86
+Molasses      |   147 cwt. 3 qr. 4 lb. |   109  3  0 |    35 19 18 |    72 66
+Olive Oil     |   700 gallons          |   142  9  0 |    19 17 10 |   136 50
+Linseed Oil   | 2,100     "            |   282 19  6 |    32 12  2 |   511 88
+Raw Sugar     | 2,168 cwt. 2 qr. 8 lb. | 3,169  6  3 | 1,889 13 10 | 5,899 74
+Refined Sugar | 6,020 lbs.             |   157  5  6 |    92  9  9 |   205 44
+Wine          |   400 gallons          |   240  7  0 |    54 17 11 |   245 81
+              |                        |             |             +------------
+              |                        |             |             | 8,914 91
+              |                        +-------------+-------------+------------
+              |                        | 5,558  0  0 | 2,587  5 10 |£2,228 14 6
+
+
+We have also been favoured with a return of the shipping, which,
+during the season of 1845, has entered this port. The reports to the
+Custom House embrace 388,788. This return includes the steamers
+employed on the Bay and Lake, when carrying merchandize; but, as the
+law requiring vessels to report only came into force several weeks
+after the opening of the navigation, and as it has not in all
+instances been obeyed, the return is not quite as full as it might
+have been under other circumstances. As much as 15,000 or 20,000 tons
+have in this way entered without reporting. The amount of tonnage for
+1845, stated above, is likewise exclusive of all that engaged n trade
+on the canal and river, and which is very nearly equal in amount.
+
+The Provincial Revenue returns for 1845 are said to exceed those of
+1844 by £55,000.
+
+Kingston is, in fact, the key of the Great Lakes, the St. Lawrence and
+the Rideau Canal being their outlets for commerce; but, unless
+railroads are established between the Atlantic at Halifax and these
+Lakes, the prosperity of this and many other inland towns will be
+materially affected, as by the enlargement of the Rideau branches at
+Grenville, &c. and the La Chine Canal to the required ship navigation
+size, Kingston must no longer hope for the unshipment of bulky goods
+and the forwarding trade on which she so mainly depends; a glance at
+the forwarding business done by the Erie Canal to New York on the
+American side, and that by the Welland, St. Lawrence, and Rideau on
+the Canadian, being quite sufficient to prove that all the energies of
+the Canadians are required to compete with their rivals. And for this
+purpose I cite an extract from a circular put forth by the Free Trade
+Association of Montreal, which contains a good deal of sound reasoning
+on this subject, amidst, of course, much party feeling on the Free
+Trade principle.
+
+"We now proceed, in the development of our plan, to show the
+incalculable advantages that will result to Canadian commerce and the
+carrying trade, by removing all duties and restrictions from American
+produce.
+
+"First, we shall show the amount of produce collected annually on the
+shores of our great island waters, and brought to this city for
+distribution to the various markets of consumption; next, the vast
+quantity that passes through the Erie Canal, seeking a market at New
+York and other American ports; and, lastly, we shall show that it is
+in the power of Canada to divert a large share of this latter trade
+through her own waters, if her people and legislature will promptly
+give effect to the liberal and enlarged policy which it is the object
+of this Association to advocate and urge.
+
+    "NO. 1.--SHOWING THE QUANTITY OF PRODUCE BROUGHT BY THE ST. LAWRENCE
+    TO THE CITY OF MONTREAL, IN THE YEAR 1845:--
+
+    "Pork, 6,109 barrels; beef, 723 barrels; lard, 460 kegs; flour,
+    590,305 barrels; wheat, 450,209 bushels; other grain, 40,781
+    bushels; ashes, 33,000 barrels; butter, 8,112 kegs.
+
+    "NO. 2.--SHOWING THE QUANTITY OF PRODUCE CARRIED THROUGH THE ERIE
+    CANAL IN THE YEAR 1844:--
+
+    "Pork, 63,646 barrels; beef, 7,699 barrels; lard, 3,064,800 lbs.;
+    flour, 2,517,250 barrels; wheat, 1,620,033 bushels; corn, 35,803
+    bushels; flax-seed, 8,303,960 lbs.; ashes, 80,646 barrels.
+
+"From the foregoing statements it will be seen that the quantity
+carried through the latter channel is enormous as compared with the
+former. It becomes then a question of vital importance whether a
+portion of this trade can be attracted through the St. Lawrence. We
+believe that it can, because the cheapest conveyance to the seaboard
+and to the manufacturing districts of New England must win the prize;
+and who will deny that the securing of this prize is not worth both
+our best and united exertions?
+
+"The cheapening of the means of transit is the great object to be
+obtained; and our best practical authorities are firmly of opinion
+that the St. Lawrence will be made the cheapest route, as soon as our
+chain of inland improvements is rendered complete. They affirm that
+the cost of transporting a barrel of flour from Detroit to Montreal
+will not exceed 1s. 6d. to 1s. 9d. The difficulty will then be
+to secure a port of constant access to the sea, and that difficulty
+will be overcome by the early completion of the projected Portland
+railway: a road that will place us within a day's journey of that
+city, the harbour of which may be made the safest and cheapest on the
+continent of America. By that route we shall avoid the occasional
+dangers and inconveniencies of the St. Lawrence, from Montreal
+outwards, practically secure a long season for trade in the fall of
+the year, and safely reckon on freights to Liverpool as low as those
+from New York. But what is equally important to the transit trade to
+England is this: that by rendering our charges cheaper than those
+through the Erie Canal to Boston, we shall secure the transit trade to
+that great city, and all other eastern markets, as well as the
+supplying of our sister colonies, commonly known as the Lower Ports.
+This picture may appear too flattering to those who have not
+investigated the subject; but to such we say, examination will
+convince them that, with the St. Lawrence as a highway, and Portland
+as an outlet to the sea, we shall be enabled, successfully, to
+struggle for the mighty trade of the West, and bid defiance to
+competition on the more artificial route of the Erie Canal. But there
+is no time for slumbering; inactivity, at this crisis, would be fatal
+to our hopes; even the very produce of Western Canada may be carried,
+in spite of us, through American channels, unless we immediately carry
+out the completion of our own.
+
+"We may here also remind the Canadian farmer, at whatever place he may
+be situated, that every saving effected in the means of bringing his
+produce to market adds in the same degree to the value of his wheat
+and every other marketable product of the soil he cultivates.--And
+here it may not be out of place to add that, repudiating all sectional
+proceedings, we seek no advantage for classes, no peculiar advantage
+for Montreal over other parts of the province; we advocate, on the
+contrary, the general interests of producers and consumers--the
+general welfare of the community."
+
+People of enlarged views in Canada do not, however, fancy, with the
+anti-free-traders, that Sir Robert Peel's measures will prove so very
+destructive to colonial interests; on the contrary, they clearly see
+that new energies will be called into operation, and that Canada will
+be opened by railroads, and no longer monopolized by extensive
+landholders of waste and unprofitable forests.
+
+Having now arrived at the termination of this volume, I have only to
+add that, if a war is forced upon Great Britain by the United States,
+the British dominion here will be sustained without flinching; and
+that the old English aspiration of the militia will be
+
+
+             FOR THE HONOUR AND GLORY OF BRITAIN,
+                   GOD SAVE THE QUEEN!
+
+
+THE END.
+
+F. Shoberl, Jun., Printer to His Royal Highness Prince Albert,
+
+51, Rupert Street, Haymarket.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Canada and the Canadians, Vol. 2, by 
+Richard Henry Bonnycastle
+
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