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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846 + +Author: James Richardson + +Release Date: July 17, 2007 [EBook #22094] +Last Updated: April 7, 2018 + + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + +HTML revised by David Widger + + + + +</pre> + + +<h1>TRAVELS</h1> + +<h4>IN</h4> + +<h1>THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA,</h1> + +<h3>IN THE YEARS OF 1845 AND 1846.</h3> + +<h4>CONTAINING</h4> + +<h3>A NARRATIVE OF PERSONAL ADVENTURES, DURING A TOUR OF NINE +MONTHS THROUGH THE DESERT, AMONGST THE TOUARICKS +AND OTHER TRIBES OF SAHARAN PEOPLE;</h3> + +<h4>INCLUDING A DESCRIPTION OF</h4> + +<h3>THE OASES AND CITIES OF GHAT, GHADAMES, +AND MOURZUK.</h3> + +<h2>BY JAMES RICHARDSON.</h2> + +<h4><ins class="grk" title="Greek: Phônê boôntos en tê erêmô">Φωνὴ βοῶντος ἐν τῇ ἐρήμῳ.</ins></h4> + +<h3>IN TWO VOLUMES.</h3> + +<h3>LONDON:</h3> +<h4>RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,</h4> +<h5>Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.</h5> +<h6>M.D.CCC.XLVIII.</h6> + +<hr /> + +<h3>Table of Contents</h3> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'><span class="smcap">page</span></td></tr> +<tr><th align='right'> </th><th align='center'><a href="#V1-vii"><span class="smcap">Volume I.</span></a></th><th align='right'> </th></tr> +<tr><td align='right'> </td><td align='left'><a href="#AINTRODUCTION"><span class="smcap">Introduction</span></a></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-xi">xi</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'> </td><td align='left'><a href="#AILLUSTRATIONS"><span class="smcap">Illustrations</span></a></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-xxxii">xxxii</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_I">I.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Tunis to Tripoli</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-1">1</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_II">II.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Tripoli to the Mountains</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-25">25</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_III">III.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From the Mountains to Ghadames</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-41">41</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">IV.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence in Ghadames to Beginning of the Ramadan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-89">89</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_V">V.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Fast of the Ramadan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-129">129</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">VI.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Fast of the Ramadan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-159">159</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">VII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Fast of the Ramadan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-190">190</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">VIII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Fast of the Ramadan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-221">221</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">IX.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Continued Residence in Ghadames</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-246">246</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_X">X.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Continued Residence in Ghadames</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-277">277</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">XI.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Continued Residence in Ghadames</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-301">301</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">XII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Preparations for going to Soudan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-330">330</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">XIII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Preparations for going to Soudan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-358">358</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">XIV.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Ghadames to Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-383">383</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">XV.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Ghadames to Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-410">410</a></td></tr> +<tr><th align='right'> </th><th align='center'><a href="#V2-i"><span class="smcap">Volume II.</span></a></th><th align='right'> </th></tr> +<tr><td align='right'> </td><td align='left'><a href="#BILLUSTRATIONS"><span class="smcap">Illustrations</span></a></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-ii">ii</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">XVI.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence in Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-1">1</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">XVII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence in Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-34">34</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">XVIII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence in Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-56">56</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">XIX.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Abandon the Tour to Soudan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-77">77</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">XX.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Continued Residence in Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-115">115</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">XXI.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Continued Residence in Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-152">152</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">XXII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Preparations for Departure to Fezzan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-189">189</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">XXIII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Ghat to Mourzuk</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-224">224</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">XXIV.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Ghat to Mourzuk</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-270">270</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">XXV.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence at Mourzuk</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-308">308</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">XXVI.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence at Mourzuk</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-336">336</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">XXVII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Mourzuk to Sockna</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-363">363</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">XXVIII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Mourzuk to Sockna</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-386">386</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">XXIX.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence in Sockna</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-408">408</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXX">XXX.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Sockna to Misratah</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-433">433</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI">XXXI.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Misratah to Tripoli</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-460">460</a></td></tr> +</table></div> +<hr /> + +<h3>List of Illustrations</h3> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="List of illustrations"> + +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'><span class="smcap">page</span></td></tr> +<tr><th align='center'><a href="#V1-vii"><span class="smcap">Volume I.</span></a></th><th align='right'> </th></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="smcap">Plates.</span></td><td align='right'> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Portrait of the Author</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-vii"><i>facing Title-page.</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Map of the Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-viii">viii</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Slave Caravan</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-xxxii">xxxii</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="smcap">Wood-Cuts.</span></td><td align='right'> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Arab Tents</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-30">30</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Facsimile Specimen of the Writing of a Young Taleb</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-114">114</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Manner of drawing Water from Wells</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-127">127</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Great Spring of Ghadames</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-185">185</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bas-Relief</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-210">210</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Square of Fountains</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-225">225</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>City of Ghadames</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-268">268</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cistern of an Ancient Tower</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-282">282</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Negro's Head</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-303">303</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ancient Ruins of Ghadames</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-357">357</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Region of Sands</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-407">407</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rocking Rock</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-436">436</a></td></tr> +<tr><th align='center'><a href="#V2-i"><span class="smcap">Volume II.</span></a></th><th align='right'> </th></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="smcap">Plates.</span></td><td align='right'> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Sand Storm</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-i"><i>facing Title-page.</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="smcap">Wood-Cuts.</span></td><td align='right'> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Architectural detail of Houses</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-71">71</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Stones for grinding Corn</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-81">81</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Touaricks seated in the Shelly</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-108">108</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>View of the Town of Ghat from the Oasis</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-163">163</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Governor's Palace, Ghat</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-198">198</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dress of Touarick Men</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-207">207</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dress of Touarick Men showing Litham</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-209">209</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>"The Demon's Palace"</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-243">243</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Shapes of Desert Mosques</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-269">269</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Targhee Scout</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-302">302</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Detail of Talisman</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-418">418</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Carved Stone, Ancient Roman Station of Septimus Severus</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-445">445</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<hr /> +<h4>LONDON: HARRISON AND CO., PRINTERS, 45, ST. MARTIN'S LANE.</h4> +<hr /> +<div class='tnote'><h3>Transcriber's Notes</h3> + +<p>1. On page 249 of Vol. II, there is a possible line missing. +A period has been changed to a comma and marked. See the original +page image for details.</p> + +<p>2. 'th' in dates has been italicised consistently.</p> + +<p>3. There are numerous spelling inconsistencies in proper and place names +as well as within accented characters. These have been left as printed.</p> + +<p>4. A list of illustrations has been created for Volume II. +Illustrations have been titled with the text from the illustration lists.</p> + +<p>5. The remaining corrections made are indicated by dotted lines under +the corrections. +Scroll the mouse over the word and the original text will <ins class="err" +title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'apprear'">appear</ins>.</p> </div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-vii" id="V1-vii"></a>[<a href="images/1-vii.png">vii</a>]</span></p> + +<h1>TRAVELS</h1> + +<h4>IN</h4> + +<h1>THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA,</h1> + +<h3>IN THE YEARS OF 1845 AND 1846.</h3> + +<h4>CONTAINING</h4> + +<h3>A NARRATIVE OF PERSONAL ADVENTURES, DURING A TOUR OF NINE +MONTHS THROUGH THE DESERT, AMONGST THE TOUARICKS +AND OTHER TRIBES OF SAHARAN PEOPLE;</h3> + +<h4>INCLUDING A DESCRIPTION OF</h4> + +<h3>THE OASES AND CITIES OF GHAT, GHADAMES, +AND MOURZUK.</h3> + +<h2>BY JAMES RICHARDSON.</h2> + +<h4><ins class="grk" title="Greek: Phônê boôntos en tê erêmô">Φωνὴ βοῶντος ἐν τῇ ἐρήμῳ.</ins></h4> + +<h3>IN TWO VOLUMES.</h3> + +<h2>VOL. I.</h2> + +<h3>LONDON:</h3> +<h4>RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,</h4> +<h5>Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.</h5> +<h6>M.D.CCC.XLVIII.</h6> + +<p> </p> +<hr /> +<p> </p> +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-01.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-01_th.jpg" alt="Portrait of the Author" title="JAMES RICHARDSON ESQ^R." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter">JAMES RICHARDSON ESQ<sup><span class="smcap">r.</span></sup></p> + +<p class="figcenter"><i>In the Ghadamsee Costume.</i></p> + +<p class="figcenter">ENGRAVED BY GEORGE COOK FROM THE ORIGINAL DRAWING.</p> + +<p class="figcenter">London: Richard Bentley, 1848.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-viii" id="V1-viii"></a>[<a href="images/1-viii.png">viii</a>]</span></p> + +<h4>LONDON</h4> +<h4>HARRISON AND CO., PRINTERS,</h4> +<h4>ST. MARTIN'S LANE.</h4> + +<hr /> + +<h3>Table of Contents</h3> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'><span class="smcap">page</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'> </td><td align='left'><a href="#AINTRODUCTION"><span class="smcap">Introduction</span></a></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-xi">xi</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'> </td><td align='left'><a href="#AILLUSTRATIONS"><span class="smcap">Illustrations</span></a></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-xxxii">xxxii</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_I">I.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Tunis to Tripoli</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-1">1</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_II">II.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Tripoli to the Mountains</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-25">25</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_III">III.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From the Mountains to Ghadames</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-41">41</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">IV.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence in Ghadames to Beginning of the Ramadan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-89">89</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_V">V.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Fast of the Ramadan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-129">129</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">VI.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Fast of the Ramadan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-159">159</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">VII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Fast of the Ramadan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-190">190</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">VIII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Fast of the Ramadan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-221">221</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">IX.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Continued Residence in Ghadames</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-246">246</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_X">X.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Continued Residence in Ghadames</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-277">277</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">XI.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Continued Residence in Ghadames</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-301">301</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">XII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Preparations for going to Soudan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-330">330</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">XIII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Preparations for going to Soudan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-358">358</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">XIV.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Ghadames to Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-383">383</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">XV.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Ghadames to Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-410">410</a></td></tr> +</table></div> +<hr /> + +<h3><a name="AILLUSTRATIONS" id="AILLUSTRATIONS"></a>List of Illustrations</h3> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="List of illustrations"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'><span class="smcap">page</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="smcap">Plates.</span></td><td align='right'> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Portrait of the Author</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-vii"><i>facing Title-page.</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Map of the Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-viii">viii</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Slave Caravan</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-xxxii">xxxii</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="smcap">Wood-Cuts.</span></td><td align='right'> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Arab Tents</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-30">30</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Facsimile Specimen of the Writing of a Young Taleb</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-114">114</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Manner of drawing Water from Wells</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-127">127</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Great Spring of Ghadames</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-185">185</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bas-Relief</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-210">210</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Square of Fountains</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-225">225</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>City of Ghadames</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-268">268</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cistern of an Ancient Tower</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-282">282</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Negro's Head</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-303">303</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ancient Ruins of Ghadames</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-357">357</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Region of Sands</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-407">407</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rocking Rock</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-436">436</a></td></tr> +</table></div> +<hr /> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-02.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-02_th.jpg" alt="Map of the Desert" title="MAP" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter">MAP</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><i>ILLUSTRATING</i></p> + +<p class="figcenter">THE TRAVELS AND RESEARCHES</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><i>OF</i></p> + +<p class="figcenter"><i>JAMES RICHARDSON</i></p> + +<p class="figcenter"><i>IN</i></p> + +<p class="figcenter">THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><i>BY</i></p> + +<p class="figcenter">JAMES WYLD</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><i>GEOGRAPHER TO THE QUEEN</i></p> + +<p class="figcenter"><i>London, Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street, 1848.</i></p> + +<p class="figcenter">ENGRAVED BY J. WYLD, CHARING CROSS EAST</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xi" id="V1-xi"></a>[<a href="images/1-xi.png">xi</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="AINTRODUCTION" id="AINTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> sentiment of Antiquity—that "The life of no man is +pleasing to the gods which is not useful to his fellows,"—has +been my guiding principle of action during the last +twelve years of my life. To live for my own simple and +sole gratification, to have no other object in view but my +own personal profit and renown, would be to me an intolerable +existence. To be useful, or to attempt to be +useful, in my day and generation, was the predominant +motive which led me into The Desert, and sustained me +there, alone and unprotected, during a long and perilous +journey.</p> + +<p>But, in presenting this work to the British public, I +have to state, that it is only <i>supplementary</i> and <i>fragmentary</i>. +If, therefore, any one were to judge of the results of +my Saharan Tour merely by what is here given, he would +do me a great injustice. I had expected, by this time, +that certain Reports on the Commerce and Geography of +The Great Desert, as well as a large Map of the Routes of +this part of Africa, would have been given to the public. +It is not my fault that their publication is still delayed. +I can only regret it, because what I am now publishing +comes <i>first</i>, instead of <i>last</i>, and consequently deranges<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xii" id="V1-xii"></a>[<a href="images/1-xii.png">xii</a>]</span> +my plan, the following pages being, indeed, <i>supplementary</i> +to the Reports and Map. I come, therefore, before +the public with no small disadvantage.</p> + +<p>With regard to these supplementary and fragmentary +extracts from my journal, I have also to state, they consist +only of about two-thirds of the journal. For the +present, I deemed it prudent to suppress the rest. But +this likewise may disturb the harmony and mar the completeness +of the work. However, if these portions of the +journal are favourably received, other extracts may yet +be published.</p> + +<p>On entering The Desert, my principal object was to +ascertain how and to what extent the Saharan Slave-Trade +was carried on; although but a comparatively +small portion of the following pages is devoted to this +subject. I have already reported fully on this traffic, +and it was unnecessary to go over the ground again, +which might defeat, by disagreeable repetitions and endless +details, the object which I have in view,—that of +exciting an abhorrence of the Slave-Trade in the hearts +of my fellow countrymen and countrywomen.</p> + +<p>In these published extracts from my journal, I have +endeavoured to give a truthful and faithful picture of +the Saharan Tribes; their ideas, thoughts, words, and +actions; and, where convenient, I have allowed them to +speak and act for themselves. This is the main object +which I have undertaken to accomplish in this Narrative +of my Personal Adventures in The Sahara. The public +must, and will, I doubt not, judge how far I have suc<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xiii" id="V1-xiii"></a>[<a href="images/1-xiii.png">xiii</a>]</span>ceeded, +and award me praise or blame, as may be my +desert. If I have failed, I shall not abandon myself to +despair, but shall console myself with the thought that I +have done the best I was able to do under actual circumstances, +and in my then state of health. It would, +indeed, ill become me to shrink from public criticism, +after having braved the terrors and hardships of The +Desert. However, the publication of this journal may +induce others to penetrate The Desert,—persons better +qualified, and more ably and perfectly equipped than +myself, and who may so accomplish something more permanently +advantageous than what I have been able to +compass. Acting, then, as pioneer to others, my Saharan +labours will not be fruitless.</p> + +<p>But, if any persons obstinately object to the style and +matters of my Narrative of Desert Travel, I shall likewise +as obstinately endeavour to hold my ground. To +all such I say,—"Go to now, ye objectors and gainsayers, +and do better." My mission was <i>motu proprio</i>, +and I plunged in The Desert without your permission. +But I am but one of the two hundred millions of Europe. +You can surely get volunteers. You have the money, +the rank, the patronage, and the learned and philanthropic +Societies of Europe at your back. Send others; +inspire them yourselves, and they may produce something +which you like better than what I have given you. +If I am not orthodox enough,—if I have not reviled the +Deism of The Desert sufficiently to your taste,—send +those who will. A little less zeal in Exeter Hall, and a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xiv" id="V1-xiv"></a>[<a href="images/1-xiv.png">xiv</a>]</span> +little more in The Desert, would do neither you nor the +world any harm. A little less clamour about Church +orthodoxy, or any other doxy<a name="FNa_1-1" id="FNa_1-1"></a><a href="#FoN_1-1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>, and a little more anxiety +for the welfare of all mankind, would infinitely more become +you, as Englishmen and Christians, and be more in +harmony with that divine injunction, which sent out the +first teachers of Christianity amongst the Greeks and +Barbarians, in The City and The Desert, to preach the +Gospel to every creature under heaven. If I be too +much of an abolitionist, send one who admires slavery, +and who will write up the Slave-Trade of The Desert. I +have written in my way: you write in your way. If my +pages disclose no discoveries in science, this I can only +lament. When a man has no science in him, or no +education in science, he can give you none. But what +are your European Societies of Science for? Are they +play-things, or are they serious affairs? Have you neither +money nor zeal to equip a scientific expedition to +The Desert? If not, I cannot help you. By the way, I +was astonished to receive, since my return, a note from +one of your eminent geologists, repudiating and protesting +against all knowledge of the subject of "The Geology of +The Desert." And The Desert is a fifth part of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xv" id="V1-xv"></a>[<a href="images/1-xv.png">xv</a>]</span> +African Continent! Yet this gentleman dogmatizes and +theorizes on all geological formations, and can tell the whole +history of the geology of our planet, from the first moment +when it was bowled by the hand of The Omnipotent +in the immensity of space, of suns and systems! If such +presumption and self-willed ignorance discover themselves +in great men, what are we to expect of little men?</p> + +<p>In the following pages, I have encroached upon my +Reports, to describe several of the Oases of The Desert, +besides giving as much of the routes as was necessary +to render the Narrative of my journey intelligible. +But this is all I could conscientiously do. For the rest +of the geographical information, the public must wait.</p> + +<p>I return for a moment to the traffic in slaves. Born +with an innate hatred of oppression, whatever form, or +shape, or name it may take, and under what modes +soever it may be developed, mentally or bodily, in chaining +men down under a political despotism, or in forging for +them a creed and forcing it on their consciences,—I have, +since I could exercise the power of reflection, always looked +upon the traffic in human flesh and blood as the most +gigantic system of wickedness the world ever saw; and +which I most deplore, in this our late, more humane and +enlightened age, stands forth and raises its horrid head, +impiously defying Heaven! In very truth, it is a system +of crime, which dares</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Defy the Omnipotent to arms!"</span> +</div></div> + +<p>The reader must, therefore, excuse the language with +which I have execrated this traffic in the pages of my<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xvi" id="V1-xvi"></a>[<a href="images/1-xvi.png">xvi</a>]</span> +Journal. There may be some men who think it no crime +to buy and sell their fellow-men; I have seen many such +amongst the Moslems. But he who thinks the traffic in +slaves to be a crime against the human race, has a right +to denounce it accordingly. I must therefore make a few +preliminary observations, though painful to my feelings.</p> + +<p>It is notorious that the agitations of the Anti-Corn-Law +League have given very lately a powerful impulse to +the Slave-Trade, and slaves have risen in Cuba to 30 and +50 per cent. above their previous average value, since +<i>slave</i> sugar has been admitted upon the same terms, or +nearly so, as <i>free-labour</i> sugar, into England. This is +entirely the work of The League. Some of these gentlemen +think we must have cheap sugar at any risk, at +any cost, even if wetted with the blood of the slaves. A +ridiculous incident occurs to me. I once saw a child +frightened into a dislike for white loaf sugar, by holding +up a piece to the candle, and pretending it dropped +blood. But there is no delusion or metaphor here, for +the sugars of slave-plantations are really obtained by +the blood-whippings and scourgings of the victimized +slaves!</p> + +<p>As to Cobden, his Cobdenites, and Satellites, they +would sell their own souls, and the whole human race into +bondage, to have a free trade in slaves and sugar. This +new generation of impostors—who teach that all virtue +and happiness consist in buying in the cheapest, and +selling in the dearest markets—are now dogging at the +heels of Government, in combination with the West India<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xvii" id="V1-xvii"></a>[<a href="images/1-xvii.png">xvii</a>]</span> +agents, to get them to re-establish a species of mitigated +Slave-Trade, because, forsooth, there should be +right and liberty to buy and sell a man, as there is right +and liberty to buy and sell a beast.</p> + +<p>I am not an enemy to Free Trade. I have duly +noticed and praised the free-trade mart of Ghat, and +shown how it prospers in comparison with the restricted +system of the Turks, prevalent at Mourzuk. But this I +do say, the case of Slavery was an exceptional case, as +the Ten Hours' Factory Bill was an exceptional case in +the regulation and restriction of labour. I fear, however, +there are some of the Leaguers so outrageous in +their advocacy of abstract principles, that they would +have a free-trade in vice—a free-trade in consigning +people to perdition! They are of the calibre of the +men who wielded that dread engine of the "Reign of +Terror," the "Committee of Public Safety," and made +it death to speak a word against the "One Indivisible +Republic<a name="FNa_1-2" id="FNa_1-2"></a><a href="#FoN_1-2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>." These Leaguers are bent upon establishing +an equal, although differently-formed, tyranny amongst +us, and we cannot too soon and too energetically resist +their odious and intolerable pretensions.</p> + +<p>But I know not, whether these civil tyrants be so bad +as the spiritual tyrants who have just set up for themselves +what they call a "Free Kirk." These reverend +gentlemen have received the fruits of the blood of +the slaves, employed on the laborious fields of the +Southern States of America, to build up their new Free<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xviii" id="V1-xviii"></a>[<a href="images/1-xviii.png">xviii</a>]</span> +Church, pretending they have a Divine right to receive +the value of the forced-labour of slaves, and quoting +Scripture like the Devil himself. When called upon to +refund they refuse, and make the contributions of the +Presbyterian slave-dealers of the United States a sort +of corner-stone of their Free Kirk. Why these priests +of religion out-O'Connell-O'Connell, who point-blank +refused, for the support of his sham Repeal, and sent +back contemptuously, the dollars spotted and tainted +with the blood of the slaves! . . . . . . . . It +is the old story, the old trick of our good friends, the +Scottish divines, and their old leaven of Scottish fanaticism. +We know them of ancient date. We have read +a line of Milton, who in his time so admirably resisted +their bigotry. It is immortal like all that our divine +bard wrote. Here is the line—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"New Presbyter is but old Priest writ large."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>The Free Kirk has cut its connexion with the State, +because it says the State wishes to enslave its ministers. +Yet it has no objection to receive monies from the slave-holders +in America. The Free Kirk will build up its +boasted freedom on the wasting blood and bones of the +unhappy children of Africa! Why, indeed, should these +Scottish divines, headed by the Presbyters Candlish and +Cunningham, seek or advocate the freedom of the slaves +held by their fellow Presbyters of the United States? +Is it not enough that they seek and maintain their own +freedom, and at whatsoever cost? Have they not<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xix" id="V1-xix"></a>[<a href="images/1-xix.png">xix</a>]</span> +received the pro-slavery mantle of the late venerated Dr. +Chalmers, and can they, poor pigmies, possibly shake it +off? Would it not be impious to do so? No, they cannot,—dare +not do this. For, as it was said by Lord +George Bentinck, of a quondam champion of the people, +in the last Session of Parliament, "Liberty is on their +tongues, but despotism is in their hearts."</p> + +<p>What can be more humiliating to a generous and +tolerant mind, than to see a body of Christian ministers +struggling to obtain by a Parliamentary enactment, the +cession of plots of land for building of churches for the +worship of God in liberty and truth, from the tyrannical +holders of the soil; and, at the same time, this very body +of priests does not scruple to receive the money of American +slave-holders, to build and endow these self-same +churches? Such incredible inconsistency makes one sick +at heart, and inclined to question the existence of Christian +feelings in the professors and teachers of Christianity!</p> + +<p>It is deeply to be deplored that our Anti-Slavery Society +confines itself so much to protests, and what it calls +"the moral principle." No people of the world has +done more for the liberties of Africa than the Society of +Friends in England, and no people more admirably exemplify +in their conduct the humane and pacific morals +of Christianity. But when the Founder of our religion +resisted his enemies by the remonstrance, "Why strikest +thou me?" something more was meant than a protest. +We have had lately a <i>triste</i> example of the end of protests +in a neighbouring country. The annual protest of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xx" id="V1-xx"></a>[<a href="images/1-xx.png">xx</a>]</span> +the French Chamber of Deputies against the extinction +of the nationality of Poland, not only ended in barren +results, and excited public ridicule, but actually terminated +in the triumph of the nefarious scheme against +which it was made. Never was a country so humiliated +as France in this case!—Its Chief, the Sovereign of its +choice, consenting at the time, to the damning act of the +extinction of Polish nationality, for the sake of accomplishing +a low and scandalous family intrigue in Spain! +This was something more than ridiculous, and is one of +the many infamies of our age, perpetrated on so large a +scale. Now, I do not assert, that the protests of the +Anti-Slavery Society will end in the re-enactment of the +Slave-Trade by the British Parliament. But the last and +present Sessions of Imperial Parliament, show symptoms +of our country abandoning Africa, after the labours +of half a century, to all the horrors of the Slave-Trade. +Mr. P. Borthwick and Mr. Hume, more especially the latter, +pleaded, in conjunction with others, during last Session, for +the withdrawal of the British cruisers from off the Western +Coast of Africa, and free trade in emigration, if not in +slaves. In this good work, of course, they have the +sympathies of the Anti-Slavery Free Trading League. +Some of our journals opine, in their late articles, that a +change has come over the spirit of our abolition dream, and +suggest that the clerk, in charge of the Anti-Slavery Papers +at the Foreign Office, is an old antiquated, superannuated +being. In a word, these journals and Mr. Hume's pro-slavery +clique, see no reason why Great Britain should<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xxi" id="V1-xxi"></a>[<a href="images/1-xxi.png">xxi</a>]</span> +not exhibit to this and succeeding ages, the most dreadful +bad faith in the case of British abolition. They +would have us say to the world:—"All our Anti-Slavery +efforts, our Parliamentary enactments against Slavery, +our huge blue books of published Anti-Slavery papers, +our protocols and treaties with Foreign Powers, all, each, +and singular, are one grand organized system of selfishness +and hypocrisy." I know very well that, in general, +foreigners give us no credit whatever for our anti-slavery +feelings and public acts for the suppression of the Slave-Trade. +This they have reiterated in my ears. And, +how can they give us credit for sincerity in abolition, +when our public men and public writers call for something +like the re-enactment of the British Slave-Trade?—and, +whilst our quondam champions of Free Churches +receive the blood-stained money of slave-labour to build +up their new ecclesiastical establishments? Mankind +reason from actions, and not from verbal or written declarations. +Our Act of Abolition, and the famous twenty +millions, are not such wonderful things after all, when +we owed a hundred millions to the descendants of our +slaves. We were also nearly half a century in abolishing +the traffic, after it had been denounced as robbery +and murder by our highest and greatest statesmen, Pitt +and Fox<a name="FNa_1-3" id="FNa_1-3"></a><a href="#FoN_1-3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>. This slowness of our work has given the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xxii" id="V1-xxii"></a>[<a href="images/1-xxii.png">xxii</a>]</span> +cue to the suspicions of our national enemies; and, certainly, +to use a gross vulgarism, has "taken out the +shine," or very much dimmed the lustre of this great act +of justice to the African race.</p> + +<p>Here I cannot restrain myself from giving a word of +caution to the working-classes of our country, to those +more especially who head the new "National Society," +and form other and similar leagues. You say the politicians +of the Anti-Corn Law League are your men; you +adore your Humes, and Duncombes, and Wakleys. You, +English democrats, or reformers, as you may call yourselves, +admire the self-government and cheap government +of the Transatlantic Model Republic. You do well. But +now read some of their latest handiworks, without note +or comment on my part. The violent impulse given to +the Slave-Trade in Cuba and the Brazils—the advocacy +of a free trade in Slaves by the Leaguers in and out +the British Parliament—the invasion and subjugation of +Mexico, on the joint principles of lust of conquest and +the extension of Slavery. Deny these facts if you can. +Learn, then, to think, there may be democracy and +republicanism without liberty or freedom.</p> + +<p>I pray God, that the protests and public appeals and +remonstrances to Government of the Anti-Slavery Society +may not end in barren results. But if the Leaguers +and Democrats have their own way, its voice, though +just and righteous, will be at length reduced to a faint +cry, a last shriek of despair—overwhelmed by the loud +laughs and jeers of the fiends, which possess the dealers<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xxiii" id="V1-xxiii"></a>[<a href="images/1-xxiii.png">xxiii</a>]</span> +in human flesh and blood, and surround unhappy and +doomed Africa with a cordon of rapine and murder, of +blood and flames!</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Where the vultures and vampires of Mammon resort,</span> +<span class="i2">Where Columbia exulting drains</span> +<span class="i2">Her life-blood from Africa's veins,</span> +<span class="i0">Where the image of God is accounted as base,</span> +<span class="i0">And the image of Cæsar set up in its place."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>If I were asked, "What can be done for Africa?" I +should reply with no new thing, no nostrums of my own +concocting, but what has been reiterated again and again. +Teach her children to till the soil—to cultivate available +exports by which they may obtain in exchange, +through the medium of a legitimate commerce, the +European products and manufactures necessary for their +use and enjoyment. Until this be done, nothing effectual +will be done. In vain you send missionaries of +religion, or agents of abolition; in vain you contract +treaties with the Princes of Africa. It is humiliating +to think, equally a disgrace to our religion as to our +civilization, that our connexion with Africa has only +served to plunge her into deeper misery and profounder +degradation. With truth we here may apply the strong +censure of a Chinese Emperor, "That the march of +Christians is whitened with human bones." Wherever +we have touched her western shores there our footsteps +have been marked with blood and devastation. We +have fostered and encouraged within the heart of Africa +the most odious and unnatural passions. We have<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xxiv" id="V1-xxiv"></a>[<a href="images/1-xxiv.png">xxiv</a>]</span> +stimulated the prince to sell his subjects, the father to +sell his child, the brother to sell the sister, the husband +the wife, into thrice-accursed and again accursed slavery! +We have done all and more than this, whilst we have +convulsed every state and kingdom of Africa with war, +for the supply of cargoes of human beings. And for +what? To cultivate our miserable cotton and sugar +plantations! These are the doctrines of mercy and +charity which we have taught the poor untutored +children of Africa. Happy for poor forlorn, dusky, +naked Africa, had she never seen the pale visage or met +the Satanic brow of the European Christian! Does any +man in his senses, who believes in God and Providence, +think that the wrongs of Africa will go on for ever +unavenged? Already, has not Providence avenged the +wrongs of Africa upon Spain and Portugal, by reducing +their national character and consideration to the lowest +in the European family of nations? And as to the +United States of America, has not the boasted liberty of +our Republican countrymen, who colonized America, +become a by-word, a hissing, and a scorn, amongst the +nations of the earth? Have not these slave-holding +Americans committed acts, nationally, within the last +few years, which the most absolute Governments of +Europe would blush to be guilty of? And what is one +of their last acts, on a smaller scale, but not less decisively +indicative of their national morality? The New York +Bible Society has declared that it will not give the +Bible to slaves, even when they are able to read the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xxv" id="V1-xxv"></a>[<a href="images/1-xxv.png">xxv</a>]</span> +Bible! Would the Czar of Russia permit such an +impious rule as this to be made by his nobles for their +slaves or serfs? Such an action would render the liberties +of a thousand republics a mockery, a snare, and a +delusion, and their names infamous throughout the world.</p> + +<p>And the time of us Englishmen will come next—our +day of infamy! unless we show ourselves worthy +that transcendant position in which Providence has +placed us, at the pinnacle of the empires of Earth, as +the leaders and champions of universal freedom.</p> + +<p>In noticing the efforts made for raising Africa from +her immemorial degradation, we are bound to confess +our obligations to the Mahometans for what they have +done. If they have extirpated Christianity from the +soil of North Africa, and planted, instead of this tree +of fair and pure fruit, the more glaring and showy plant +of Islamism, they have, at the same time, endeavoured +to raise Africa to their own level of demi-civilization. +Whilst we condemn their slave-traffic as we condemn our +own, we must do justice to the efforts which they have +made, by the spread of their creed and the diffusion +of their commerce, during a series of ten or twelve centuries, +for promoting the civilization of Africa. They +have succeeded, they have done infinitely more for +Africa than we ourselves. They have organized and +established regular governments through all Central +Africa, and inculcated a taste for the occupation and +the principles of commerce. A great portion of this +internal trade is untainted by slavery. Bornou, Soudan,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xxvi" id="V1-xxvi"></a>[<a href="images/1-xxvi.png">xxvi</a>]</span> +Timbuctoo, and Jinnee, exhibit to us groups of immense +and populous cities, all regularly governed and trading +with one another. They have abolished human sacrifice, +which lingers in our East India possessions to this +day. They have regulated marriage and restrained +polygamy. They have made honour and reverence to +be paid to grey hairs, superseding the diabolical custom +of exposing or destroying the aged. They have introduced +a knowledge of reading and writing. The oases +of Ghat and Ghadames furnish more children, in proportion, +who can read and write, than any of our +English towns. The Koran is transcribed in beautiful +characters by Negro Talebs on the banks of the Niger. +The Moors have likewise introduced many common +useful trades into Central Africa. But above all, the +Mohammedans have introduced the knowledge of the +one true God! and destroyed the fetisch idols. Let us +then take care how we arrogate to ourselves the right +and fact of civilizing the world. Nay, there cannot be +a question, if we would abandon Africa to the Mohammedans, +and leave off our man-stealing trade and practices +on the Western Coast, the dusky children of the +torrid zones would gradually advance in civilization. +But is not the bare idea of such an alternative an +indelible disgrace to Christendom?</p> + +<p>Mr. Cooley, in his learned work, entitled "The Negroland +of the Arabs<a name="FNa_1-4" id="FNa_1-4"></a><a href="#FoN_1-4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>," seems to doubt if the Slave-Trade<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xxvii" id="V1-xxvii"></a>[<a href="images/1-xxvii.png">xxvii</a>]</span> +can be abolished or civilization advanced, in Central +Africa, because of the neighbourhood of The Desert. +This, however, is transferring the guilt of slavery and of +voluntary barbarism, if barbarism can be crime, from +the volition of responsible man to a great natural fact, +or circumstance of creation—The Desert; and is a style +of observation perfectly indefensible, as well as contrary +to philosophy and facts. First, we cannot limit the +stretch or progress of the Negro mind any more than that +of the European intellect. Mr. Cooley himself admits +that the Nigritian people have advanced in civilization. +And if they have advanced, why not continue to advance? +But so far contrary are facts to Mr. Cooley's theory, that +The Desert, instead of being an obstacle to civilization, +is favourable to it, whilst the Nigritian countries beyond +the influence of The Desert are plunged into deeper +barbarism. The reader will only have to compare my +account of the Touaricks, with the recently published +account of the social state of the kingdom of Dahomy,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xxviii" id="V1-xxviii"></a>[<a href="images/1-xxviii.png">xxviii</a>]</span> +to convince himself how completely fallacious in application +is Mr. Cooley's theory<a name="FNa_1-5" id="FNa_1-5"></a><a href="#FoN_1-5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>. Slaves, too, abound in +thickly populated countries as well as desert countries: +witness China and India. The Sahara, also, has its +paradisical spots, or oases of enjoyment, as well as its +wastes and hardships. It is likewise, not true, that the +Saharan tribes depend for their happiness on the possession +of slaves, or that life in The Desert is galling and +insupportable. Many a happy oasis is without a slave. +However this may be, it is always an extremely dangerous +line of argument, to represent moral depravity as +springing necessarily from certain physical and unalterable +circumstances of creation. Finally, to represent The +Great Desert as the buttress of the Slave-Trade, is +contrary to all our experience. In deserts and mountains +we find always the free-men: in soft and luxurious +countries we find the slaves. It is not the free-born +Touarick who is the slave-dealer, or the stimulator of +the slave-traffic, but the Moorish merchant, and the +voluptuary on the coast who sends him. All that +the Saharan tribes do, is to escort the merchants +over The Desert; and they would still escort them +over The Desert did they not deal in slaves, carrying on +only legitimate commerce.</p> + +<p>I may conclude by a word on Discoveries in The +Sahara. It is now twenty years or more since The Sahara +was explored, or before my present hap-hazard tour. +From what I have seen since my return, and the little<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xxix" id="V1-xxix"></a>[<a href="images/1-xxix.png">xxix</a>]</span> +encouragement given to this sort of enterprise,—the +public of Great Britain being so much occupied with +railways, free-trade, and currency questions, educational +schemes, and State endowed, or voluntary ecclesiastical +establishments,—it is difficult to foresee how and when +another tour may be undertaken, or how a tourist will +have the heart to make another experiment. Unhappily, +the spirit of discovery, like Virtue's self, is difficult to be +satisfied with its own reward. Something, however, may +in time be expected from the French, who will get +restless in their Algerian limits, and make a bold effort +to disenthral themselves, by leaping the bounds of the +mysterious Sahara. Evidently the French Government +have prohibited all isolated attempts. But should their +colony succeed, and they must make it succeed, then a +grand stroke of policy and action will be struck upon the +lines of the Saharan routes, for diverting The Desert +trade, if possible, into Algerian channels. We must wait +patiently this time for further researches. Necessity +propels nations in the march of discovery. England has +some considerable stake likewise in the commerce of The +Great Desert. But our governmental affairs are so vast, +and ramify over so large a space of the world, that it is +extremely difficult to get a Minister to strike out a new +path, unless he has the sympathies and hearty support +of the public with him. And certainly the last thing in +the imagination of the British public is the undertaking +Discoveries in The Great Desert.</p> + +<p>A remark may be made respecting the English spel<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xxx" id="V1-xxx"></a>[<a href="images/1-xxx.png">xxx</a>]</span>ling +of Arabic words and names. I have not adopted +the new system, as very few people understand it. I +have endeavoured to represent the sounds of the original +words in the ordinary way, giving sometimes the Arabic +letters for those who prefer greater correctness. The +spelling of Oriental and African names is also occasionally +varied for the sake of variety, and sometimes I +have written the words in various ways, according to the +style of pronunciation amongst different Saharan tribes. +I have also omitted accents and italics as much as possible, +to avoid confusion and trouble to the printer. +With respect to the contents at the head of the chapters, +numberless little things and circumstances are besides +unavoidably omitted in the enumeration.</p> + +<p>I have few acknowledgments to make to those who +rendered me assistance in the prosecution of my Saharan +tour and researches. I have rather complaints to prefer +against professed friends. I was unable to get up in +The Desert a single thing, the most trifling, to aid me in +my observations, when I had determined to penetrate +farther into the interior; whilst, somehow or other, a +Memorandum was obtained from the Porte to recal me +instead of a Firman to help me on my way. Fortunately +I was beyond its power when it arrived at Tripoli, from +Constantinople. But if I feel the bitterness of this want +of sympathy, and these acts of hostility, I have the +pleasure of being triumphant over all the obstacles +thrown in my way. I felt freer in The Desert, unloaded +by obligations. Indeed, the fewer of these a traveller<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xxxi" id="V1-xxxi"></a>[<a href="images/1-xxxi.png">xxxi</a>]</span> +has, the better. He always supports his trials and +privations with lighter spirits and a more cheerful +heart. His success is his own, if his failure is his own +also. Nevertheless I have not forgotten, nor can I ever +forget, to the latest day of my life, the acts of kindness +shown to me by the rude and simple-minded people of +The Desert, and I have duly and most scrupulously +chronicled them all.</p> + +<p class="figright">JAMES RICHARDSON.</p> +<p> </p> +<p><span class="smcap">London,</span><br /> +<i>December, 1847.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Postscript.</span>—It is hoped, for the honour and humanity +of our Government, that they will resist the +clamour to withdraw the Cruisers from the Western Coast +of Africa, and that they will <span class="smcap">not withdraw</span> the British +<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Cruizers'">Cruisers</ins>. If a blow is to be struck, let it be struck at +Cuba, or the Brazils, and not on the defenceless Africans, +because they are defenceless. If a burglar prowls about, +a whole neighbourhood is on the alert to protect itself +against his depredations. If a band of pirates swarm in +a sea or infest our coasts, a fleet is fitted out to capture +them. But it is attempted to let loose upon weak, +defenceless Africa a legion of pirates and murderers—for +such will be the result if the British Cruisers are +withdrawn from the Western Coast.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-1" id="FoN_1-1"></a><a href="#FNa_1-1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> See the newspapers for the correspondence between some of the +Bishops of our Church and the Premier. As the question is, Whether +Dr. Hampden be a Heretic or a Christian? I may here +observe that the term "Christian" is used in the following pages +for "European." To the epithet "Christian," in the strict sense of +the term, I have no other pretensions than that of being a conscientious +reader of the New Testament.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-2" id="FoN_1-2"></a><a href="#FNa_1-2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> "Une et indivisible."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-3" id="FoN_1-3"></a><a href="#FNa_1-3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Lord Brougham, in his Life of Pitt, very properly takes off +some discount from the Anti-Slavery zeal of this great Statesman, +for being so tardy in the work of Abolition, and allowing his Under +Secretaries and subordinate Ministers to support the Slave-Trade +against himself, and whilst he was advocating its extinction.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-4" id="FoN_1-4"></a><a href="#FNa_1-4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> "It is impossible to deny the advancement of civilization in +that zone of the African continent which has formed the field of +our inquiry. Yet barbarism is there supported by natural circumstances +with which it is vain to think of coping. It may be +doubted whether, if mankind had inhabited the earth only in +populous and adjoining communities, slavery would have ever +existed. The Desert, if it be not absolutely the root of the evil, +has, at least, been from the earliest times the great nursery of +slave hunters. The demoralization of the towns on the Southern +borders of The Desert has been pointed out; and if the vast extent +be considered of the region in which man has no riches but slaves, +no enjoyment but slaves, no article of trade but slaves, and +where the hearts of wandering thousands are closed against +pity by the galling misery of life, it will be difficult to resist the +conviction that the solid buttress on which slavery rests in Africa, +is—The Desert." (p. 139.)</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-5" id="FoN_1-5"></a><a href="#FNa_1-5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> See <span class="smcap">Mr. Duncan's</span> <i>Travels in Western Africa</i>.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-xxxii" id="V1-xxxii"></a>[<a href="images/1-xxxii.png">xxxii</a>]</span></p> + + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-03.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-03_th.jpg" alt="A SLAVE CARAVAN." title="A SLAVE CARAVAN." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter">A SLAVE CARAVAN.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><i>J. E. S. del.</i> <i>J. W. Cook. sc.</i></p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-1" id="V1-1"></a>[<a href="images/1-1.png">1</a>]</span></p> +<h1>TRAVELS</h1> + +<h5><span class="smcap">in</span></h5> + +<h1>THE GREAT DESERT.</h1> + +<hr /> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<h3>FROM TUNIS TO TRIPOLI.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Project of Journey.—Opinions of People upon its practicability.—Moral +character of Europeans in Barbary.—Leave the Isle of +Jerbah for Tripoli in the coaster <i>Mesâoud</i>.—Return back.—Wind +in Jerbah.—Start again for Tripoli.—Sâkeeah.—Zarzees.—Biban.—The +<i>Salinæ</i>, or Salt-pits.—Rais-el-Makhbes.—Zouwarah.—Foul +Wind, and put into the port of Tripoli Vecchia.—Quarrel +of Captain with Passengers.—Description of this Port.—My +fellow-travellers, and Said the runaway Slave.—Arrival at +Tripoli, and Health-Office.—Colonel Warrington, British Consul-General.—The +British Garden.—Interview with Mehemet +Pasha.—Barbary Politics.—Aspect of Tripoli.—Old Castle of +the Karamanly Bashaws.—Manœuvring of the Pasha's Troops.—The +Pasha's opinion of my projected Tour.—Resistance of the +Pasha to my Voyage, and overcome by the Consul.—Departure +from Tripoli to Ghadames.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Accident</span> often determines the course of a man's life. +The greater part of human actions, however humiliating +to our moral and intellectual dignity, is the result of +sheer accident. That the accidents of life should harmonize +with the immutable decrees of Providence, is the +great mystery of an honest and thinking mind. The +reading accidentally of a fugitive <i>brochure</i>, thrown upon<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-2" id="V1-2"></a>[<a href="images/1-2.png">2</a>]</span> +the table of the public library of Algiers, gave me the +germ of the idea, which, fructifying and expanding, +ultimately led me to the design of visiting and exploring +the celebrated Oasis of Ghadames, planted far-away +amidst the most appalling desolations of the Great +Saharan Wilderness. This should teach us to lower our +pretensions, and take a large discount from our merits in +originating our various enterprises; but, alas! our over-weening +self-love always manages to get the better of us. +The <i>brochure</i> alluded to was a number of the <i>Revue de +L'Orient</i>, published at Paris, containing a notice of +Ghadames by M. Subtil, the notorious sulphur<a name="FNa_1-6" id="FNa_1-6"></a><a href="#FoN_1-6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>-explorer +and adventurer of Tripoli.</p> + +<p>On leaving Algiers, in January, 1845, I carried the +idea of Ghadames with me to Tunis; and thence, after +agitating an exploration to The Desert amongst my +friends, some of whom plainly told me, if I went I should +never return, I should be consumed with the sun and +fever, or murdered by the natives, and to attempt such +a thing was altogether madness, I journeyed on to +Tripoli, where I entered with all my soul and might into +the undertaking. But as in Tunis so in Tripoli, I heard +the birds of evil-omen uttering the same mournful notes +of discouragement:—"I should never reach Ghadames, +no one else had done so, or no one else had gone and +returned. I should perish by the hand of banditti, or +sink under the burning heat. I was not the man; it<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-3" id="V1-3"></a>[<a href="images/1-3.png">3</a>]</span> +required a frame of iron. Enthusiasm was very well in +its way, but it required a man who was expert in arms, +and who could fight his way through The Desert." And +such is the absurd character of men, and some people +pretending to be friends of African discovery, that, on +hearing of my safe return after nine months' absence, +they felt chagrined their sagacious vaticinations were not +verified. Like a man who writes a book, and ever so +bad a book, he cannot afterwards adopt a right sentiment, +or course of action, because he has written his +book. It is true, the fate of Davidson, in Western Barbary, +and the late disastrous mishap of the young Tuscan +on his return from Mourzuk, favoured the pretensions of +these Barbary-coast prophets, who cannot comprehend a +deviation from what had happened before, but it is +equally true that the violent deaths of these individuals, +so far as we can gather from the details, were brought +about by the greatest possible imprudence on their part. +However, I may say without hesitation, no people dread +The Desert so much, and have in them so little of +the spirit of enterprise and African discovery, as the +naturalized Europeans of Tunis and Tripoli, and other +parts of Barbary. To purchase the co-operation of a +volunteer in these countries would require more money +than defraying the expense of an expedition, and after +all, from the love of intrigue and double-dealing which +Europeans long resident in Barbary acquire, as well +as other drawbacks, you would be very badly served.</p> + +<p>I shall begin the narrative of my personal adventures +in The Sahara with my departure from the island of +Jerbah to Tripoli.</p> + +<p><i>May 7th, 1845.</i>—Left Jerbah in the evening for<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-4" id="V1-4"></a>[<a href="images/1-4.png">4</a>]</span> +Tripoli in the coaster <i>Mesâoud</i> ("happy"). The captain +and owner was a Maltese, but the colours under which +we sailed were Tunisian. Generally, a Moorish captain +<i>di bandeira</i> commands these coasters, because it saves +them dues at the various ports. Indeed, most of the +small coasting craft of Tunis and Tripoli, though the +property of Europeans, sail under the Turkish, rather +Mahometan (<i>red</i>) flag. Although May, our captain told +me, it was the worst month in the year for coasting in +Barbary. The wind comes in sudden puffs and gales, +blowing with extreme violence everything before it, prostrating +and rooting up the stoutest and strongest palm-trees. +So, in fact, as soon as we got out, a <i>gregale</i> +("north-easter") came on terrifically, and occasioned us +to return early next morning to Jerbah. During the +night, we were nearly swamped a few miles from the +shore. The <i>gregale</i> continued the next two days, striking +down several of the date-trees with great fury. When +these trees are so struck down, the people do not make +use of the wood for months, nay years, because it is ill-luck. +Jerbah is a grand focus of wind, and it sometimes +blows from every point of the compass in twelve hours. +Æolus seems to patronize this isle; and, as at Mogador +on the Atlantic, wind here supplies the place of rain. +The inhabitants of Mogador have wind nine months +out of twelve; but seasons pass without a shower of +rain.</p> + +<p><i>10th.</i>—Evening. Left again for Tripoli. We passed +the night about ten miles off the island, amongst the +fishing apparatus, which looks at a distance like so many +little islets. They consist of mere palm-tree boughs, +struck deep into the mud as piles are driven; and large<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-5" id="V1-5"></a>[<a href="images/1-5.png">5</a>]</span> +spaces are thus enclosed. When the tide<a name="FNa_1-7" id="FNa_1-7"></a><a href="#FoN_1-7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> falls, the fish +get entangled or enclosed in these enclosures, and are +caught. Very fine fish are taken, and a fifth of the +ordinary sustenance of the islanders is derived from this +fishing. Unhappily the poor fishermen are obliged to +pay from twenty-five to fifty per cent. of the fish caught +to Government; so the poor in all countries are the +worse treated because they are poor.</p> + +<p><i>11th.</i>—The wind becoming again foul, we put into a +little place called Sâkeeah, a port of the island in the +S.E. Here is nothing in the shape of a port town, only +a small square ruinous hovel of mud and plaster, and a +rude hut put up temporarily by a Maltese, who is building +a boat. I often think the Maltese are the <i>Irish</i> of +the South. Maltese enterprise is prevalent in all parts of +the Mediterranean but in their own country. The port, +such as it is, is defended by a little round battery, four +feet high, with three rusty pieces of cannon. If these +could be fired off, the masonry would tumble to pieces. +This is the <i>present</i> state of all the fortifications of +Mahometan Barbary. It frequently happens that when +a vessel of war visits the smaller Barbary ports, and +wishes to fire a salute in honour of the governors, it is +kindly requested this may not be done, because it is +necessary etiquette to return the salute, and, if returned, +the masonry of the fortifications may tumble down. The +scene was wild and bare; the colours of the landscape +light and bright. There were some Moors winnowing<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-6" id="V1-6"></a>[<a href="images/1-6.png">6</a>]</span> +barley. An ox was treading out the corn, in Scripture +fashion. Crops of barley and other grain are grown all +over this fertile isle, under the date-palm and olive +trees. Small boats were waiting to carry off the grain +to Tunis. As in Ireland, little remains to feed the +people. They must feed on dates, or fish, or vegetables +and roots.</p> + +<p><i>12th.</i>—Left Sâkeeah with a strong breeze. On looking +back on the island it had the appearance of thousands +of date-palms, boldly standing out of the sea, the land +being so low as not to be discernible a few miles' distance. +Jerbah, from this appearance, as from reality, deserves +the name of the "Isle of Palms." After crossing the +channel, which runs between the island and the continent, +whose waters were deep and rough, we got aground +in the Shallows, off Zarzees. This place is a round tower +(<i>burge</i>) on the continent, with a few houses and plantations +of olives and dates. Here commences the shoal-water, +or <i>bassa-fondo</i>, as our semi-Italian boatmen called +it, which continues east along the coast for eighty miles, +as far as Rais-el-Makhbes. When we got off again, at +the flow of the tide, we passed Biban ("two doors"), +the frontier place of the Tunisian dominions. Biban is +a castle, with some fifty Arab houses, built of palm-wood +and leaves in the shape of hay-stacks, and is situate on +an islet, on each side of which the sea passes inland and +forms a large lagoon. There is at Biban a single European +resident, an Italian, who acts as a French agent and +spy on the frontiers of Tunis and Tripoli. He is paid +about eighteen-pence a day, cheap enough for his high +political mission. The French are mighty fond of planting +spies all over Barbary; but espionage is their forte.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-7" id="V1-7"></a>[<a href="images/1-7.png">7</a>]</span> +In the evening we arrived at the <i>Salinæ</i><a name="FNa_1-8" id="FNa_1-8"></a><a href="#FoN_1-8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>, "salt pits," +on the coast, where we found several small coasters +loading with salt for Tripoli. Salt is also exported from +this place to Europe. Here we brought up for the night, +creeping and feeling our way as in the days of ancient +navigation. Our bringing up, however, was fortunate, for +the wind suddenly blew a gale from the N.W., continuing +all night, and until next day, when it fell a dead calm +again. Strange weather for the fine month of May. +But the Mediterranean, which is called the "<i>home</i> +station," is one of the nastiest chafing seas in the +world, and in this fair season of the year is exposed +to the most tremendous squalls, nay, continuous gales +of wind.</p> + +<p><i>13th.</i>—We weighed again our little anchor, and in the +afternoon cast it before Rais-el-Makhbes, the last +anchoring ground of the <i>bassa-fondo</i>. The shore from +Zarzees to Rais-el-Makhbes is extremely low. The +<i>bassa-fondo</i> stretches off the coast in some places at +least thirty or forty miles, and is so shallow, that boats +of the smallest burden often ground. Here our Maltese +captain observed to me, with great mystery, "See, <i>Signore</i>, +we must now be very cautious how we act, and +watch the wind, so as to take it on the very first breath +of its being favourable, for from here it is all deep<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-8" id="V1-8"></a>[<a href="images/1-8.png">8</a>]</span> +water to Tripoli." In general, however, the Maltese +captains display more courage than the Italians in these +coasters.</p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—In the morning we cleared Cape Makhbes. The +captain was to have rounded it and entered the little +port of Zouwarah, where there is a quarantine agent, +and landed me there according to agreement. I had +letters for this place, and was to have gone thence to +Tripoli by land, two or three days' journey. On remonstrating, +he gravely asked, "Whether I wished to do +him an injury, compelling him to go to Zouwarah, from +which port he couldn't get out for the wind?" Perceiving +the captain had fully made up his mind to break a written +agreement, signed before the Consul, for the temporary +advantage now offering, I left off remonstrating, +though extremely dissatisfied. We continued our course. +It soon fell calm, and, as usual, the calm was again succeeded +with a violent <i>gregale</i>, against which we could not +make head. I now told our Palinurus it was necessary +to look out for the port of Tripoli Vecchia, otherwise we +should be obliged to go back or keep the open sea all +night, for we could not reach Tripoli to-day. Half an +hour elapsed, and the wind continuing to freshen, the +captain took my advice. We turned direct south, and +sought the port. After experiencing some difficulty, +during which the captain, to my surprise, discovered the +most serious alarm, we found and entered the wished-for +haven. It was a real miracle of good luck, for the wind +came on dreadfully, the angry spray was covering us with +water, and our sufferings would have been beyond +description if we had been obliged to keep the sea. Our +bark was a mere cockle-shell, into which were rammed and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-9" id="V1-9"></a>[<a href="images/1-9.png">9</a>]</span> +jammed and crammed twenty-two mortal and immortal +beings: <i>C'est à dire</i>, four sailors, fourteen Moorish passengers, +including a woman and a child, two Jews, myself, and +a runaway slave. So that our heartfelt thankfulness to a +good Providence, pitying our folly and imprudence, may +be easily imagined. In the midst of our confusion while +searching for the port—having only three or four hours' +daylight before us—the most ludicrous scene was enacted, +which might have ended in the tragic. Some of the Moors +professed to know the port of Tripoli Vecchia. Hereupon +each fellow gave a different description, a thing +perfectly natural, as each would have seen the port +under different circumstances of time and place. "It was +surrounded with white cliffs,—it was black,—rocky,—it +was a sandy shore." All bawled and clamoured together. +The captain put his fingers in his ears with rage. He +had never been in before, or his men. At last, losing all +patience, the Maltese fire got up, blown to fury, and, +seizing a knife, the captain swore he would cut their +throats if they didn't hold their tongues, or give a more +distinct account of the port. This menace cowed them +down like so many bullies, and they fell into a moody +but vindictive silence, their looks discovering the internal +oaths of revenge. It was really droll, if the words used +allow the expression, to hear how the captain blended +Italian, Maltese, and Arabic oaths and abuse in his rage. +Now "<i>Santo Dio!</i>" now "<i>Scomunicat!</i>" <i>Sacrament!</i> now +"<i>Allah!</i>" "<i>Imshe</i>," "<i>Kelb</i>," "<i>Andat</i>," "<i>per Bacco!</i>" &c. +At length, when a sailor from the mast-head descried +the port, and a tremendous surf was seen or said to be +seen rolling near the entrance, the Moors, who although +mostly sulky under the influence of their fatalism, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-10" id="V1-10"></a>[<a href="images/1-10.png">10</a>]</span> +show very little courage in the dangers of the sea, cried +out with fear, "Allah, Allah!" "Ya, Mohammed!" (O +God! O God! O Mahomet!) The captain even felt +disposed to blubber at the sight of the furious surf, so +nothing less could be expected from the passengers. A +bad example is this to the sailors and people, but one +which often occurs aboard Italian and Maltese vessels.</p> + +<p><i>15th.</i>—The wind continued all night and the following +day. It dropped down on the afternoon of the +16th; on the 17th a pleasant breeze sprung up, and +continued until we got within a couple of miles off +Tripoli. We were followed for three hours by a shoal +of porpoises, some nearly as big as our bark, which +enjoyed highly the run with us, "<i>perceiving</i>," as the +captain said, "<i>our motion</i>." The first night of our +anchorage in the Tripoli Vecchia, we had several alarms +that the tiny bark had dragged its anchor, and was +about to take us out into the open sea: no one could +sleep. After the wind subsided, our <i>Christian</i> sailors +were alarmed that we might have our throats cut by the +<i>Ishmaelite</i> Arabs from the shore the next night. When +it was quite calm we went on shore to search for water; +we found a well of good water on the N.E. landing +of the port. A palm beckoned us to the spring, but +a single palm is often found where there is no well or +water; and it is not true, as vulgarly supposed, that +where there are date-palms there must be water. The +country in this vicinity is a perfect desert, yet on this +arid waste shepherds drive their flocks in the spring, +and up to May and June. The captain considered +Tripoli Vecchia, which is a very ancient port, and the +site of a once famous city, more secure than that of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-11" id="V1-11"></a>[<a href="images/1-11.png">11</a>]</span> +Tripoli itself, though certainly much smaller. Whilst we +were here no bark visited it. Good-sized ships occasionally +anchor in it. Like Tripoli, it is defended with +a sunken reef of rocks, some peaks of which rise several +feet out of the water. Along this line is a strong surf +always chafing and roaring. There are two mouths of +entrance; the deepest water within is about twelve or +fourteen feet. There is another but much smaller port, +two miles further east; the coast from this to Tripoli +offers nothing to the tourist. Twelve miles this way +begin those forests of fine broad-waving palms, which +form so noble a feature in the suburban landscape of +Tripoli. When we got off Tripoli we had a dead calm, +and myself looking about for the wind, the Moors got +angry, and said, "Be still; if you restlessly stare about, +and wish the wind to come, it will never come: you cast +the '<i>eye malign</i>' upon it." These superstitious ideas +are not peculiar to the Moors. An English captain once +told me, if I continued to stay below, the wind would +never be fair. Tripoli looked here very bold, massive, +and imposing from the sea; its broad lime-washed +towers, and the graceful minarets beyond, all dazzling +white in the sun, contrasting with the dark blue waters +of the Mediterranean. Such is the delusion of all these +sea-coast Barbary towns; at a distance and without, +beauty and brilliancy, but near and within, filth and +wretchedness.</p> + +<p>A word of my fellow passengers and crew. Our +Maltese <i>Rais</i>, although he broke his agreement with +me, behaved well; I therefore paid him, requesting the +Chancellor of our Consulate only to scold him, and warn +him for the future. He is a good Maltese Christian;<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-12" id="V1-12"></a>[<a href="images/1-12.png">12</a>]</span> +and when I told him Malta had fifty years' possession of +Tripoli, he replied, "Ah, how the world changes! what +a pity God has given this fine country into the hands of +rascally Turks." Sometimes he would kick the Moors +about and through the ship like cattle: at other times +he would say, "Aye, come, <i>bismillah</i><a name="FNa_1-9" id="FNa_1-9"></a><a href="#FoN_1-9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>," and help them +to a part of his supper. The Moors provided for only +<i>four</i> days' provisions, a day over the average time, and +they were all out of bread before arriving at Tripoli. +The captain consulted me as to what was to be done; +we arranged to supply them with a few biscuits every +day, I taking the responsibility of payment, pitying the +poor devils. If a Moor has a good passage at sea, he +says, "Thank God!" if not, <i>Maktoub</i>, ("It is written,") +and quietly submits to the evils which he has brought on +himself by sheer imprudence. Their provisions, in this +case, consisted of barley-meal, olive-oil, a few loaves of +wheaten bread, and a little dried paste for making soup. +The soup was made of a few onions, dried peppers, salt, +oil, and the paste. On first starting, some of the more +respectable had a few hard-boiled eggs, with which the +Jews most frequently travel; and others had a little +pickled fish. When the paste was finished, the barley-meal +was attacked, and when this was gone, the greater +part lived on biscuits sopped in water. We tried to buy +a sheep from a flock driven by the shore, for which I +furnished a dollar; but the current was so strong, that +the man could not reach the land. One poor old Moor +lived actually on bread and water all the time he was on<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-13" id="V1-13"></a>[<a href="images/1-13.png">13</a>]</span> +board, and would have nothing else, telling me, "What +God gives is enough." Yet he was cheerful and talkative. +One of the two Jews was also a very old blind +man, clothed in rags. He, too, mostly fared on biscuits +sopped in water; nevertheless, he also was quite happy! +"Where are you going, Abraham?" I said to him. +"Where God wills I go," he replied; "but I wish to +lay my poor bones in the land of our fathers. Many +long years God has afflicted us for our sins, but it will +not be for ever." The old gentleman was going to get a +passage from Tripoli to the Holy Land. How little +suffices some! How much does faith! So mysterious +are the ways of the Creator in distributing contentment. +For myself, I fared extremely well in the midst of this +<i>happy</i> melée of misery and starvation, Mr. Pariente, of +Jerbah, having filled for me a large box of provisions, consisting +of a leg of lamb, a fowl, pigeons, fish and bread, +besides wine and spirits. But this was as liberally distributed +amongst all as given to me, and not a crumb +was left on arriving at Tripoli. When we were getting +safe into port, I gave the grog to the crew; they had +often cast wistful eyes at the <i>acquavite</i>, but none was +poured out whilst at sea. Two or three drunken sailors +would have sent our cockle-shell to the bottom; still, in +spite of the coffee-drinking vessels, a little spirits may +occasionally be very usefully distributed to men, fighting +and wrestling with the wild waves and the tempest. +Our bark was from six to eight tons' burden, and the +cabin was just big enough for me and the captain to +move in; the woman and child slept in the forecastle, +and all the rest on deck. Each Moorish passenger paid +half a dollar for the voyage. I have been thus parti<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-14" id="V1-14"></a>[<a href="images/1-14.png">14</a>]</span>cular +in describing our coaster and its <i>live</i> freight, to +show what misery is endured in these coasting voyages. +It was, however, a fit introduction to my painful journeyings +through the still more inhospitable <i>ocean</i> desert.</p> + +<p>I have now to mention my runaway servant, Said. +This negro was the slave of Sidi Mustapha, Consular Agent +of France in Jerbah. Mustapha was formerly Consular +Agent of England, and being found to possess slaves, he +was dismissed. He got up however false documents, to +show that he had disposed of his slaves; but this being +discovered, the cheat did not avail, and he was not +allowed to be any longer England's Consul. Then, +seeing his imposture had failed, he again resumed power +over his slaves, and Said was still his slave on my +arrival at Jerbah. Hearing of this, I told Said to go on +board, and wait till the boat left. He did so. The +captain winked at it, and apparently every one else, for +Said was securely numbered on the vessel's <i>papers</i> as a +passenger. This, of course, happened before the Bey of +Tunis finally abolished slavery, which important event +took place in the beginning of the year 1846, to the +eternal honour of the reigning Mussulman prince. But, +even if slavery had continued in Tunis, Mustapha, the +French Consular Agent in Jerbah, could have had no +legal right over Said, after having given a document to +the British Consul-General, certifying that he had liberated +all his slaves. The runaway Said was in reality a +freed man. The reader, however, will be pleased to +understand that I am not justifying my conduct for enticing +a slave to run away. I despise such an attempted +justification. On the contrary, I consider that every +man, who has the means of striking off the chains from<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-15" id="V1-15"></a>[<a href="images/1-15.png">15</a>]</span> +a slave, and does not embrace the opportunity of doing +so, is the rather the man who commits an offence against +natural right. As to the French Consular Agent, I +asked some people why the French Government did not +dismiss him also for his premeditated forgery of public +documents? I was told that, on the contrary, this was +a reason for keeping him French Consul—that he could +not be <i>disavowed</i> in connexion with <i>British</i> affairs, or, +if disavowed, he must be pensioned off. A French +Consul, whose acquaintance I made in North Africa, +replied to me, on rallying him on the various disavowals +of French functionaries in different parts of the world: +"I assure you, the only way to get distinction in our +consular service is to get disavowed. When disavowed +about English differences, we must be decorated, or the +mob of Paris and its journals would not be satisfied."</p> + +<p>Our captain gave me a hint that, on arriving at Tripoli, +there would be exhibited a good deal of <i>fantazia</i>, +("humbug<a name="FNa_1-10" id="FNa_1-10"></a><a href="#FoN_1-10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>") by the health-office department. Accordingly, +after we had been an hour in port, the health +officer came alongside, and affected great surprise at our +not having <i>passports</i>, and asked me, with great pomposity, +what was my "<i>reverito nome?</i>" The Turks +always adopt and caricature the worst parts of European +civilization, leaving its better forms wholly unimitated. +This is, perhaps, in the nature of the struggles which a +semi-barbarous power may make to attain the standard +of its civilized neighbour.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-16" id="V1-16"></a>[<a href="images/1-16.png">16</a>]</span></p> +<p>On landing, I went off with Said to the British Consulate. +Although I had seen Colonel Warrington at +Malta, I was now so sea-worn and browned with sun and +wind, with an <i>incipient</i> desert beard, that he did not +immediately recollect me. I therefore presented my +letter of introduction, mentioning my name, when at +once the Colonel recognized me. "Ah!" observed the +Colonel, "I don't believe our Government cares one +straw about the suppression of the slave-trade, but, +Richardson, I believe in you, so let's be off to my garden." +I rode one of the Colonel's horses, which had +been so long in the stable without exercise, that I found +the Barbary barb no joke. A most violent <i>gregale</i> swept +the bare beach of the harbour as we proceeded to the +gardens and plantations of the Masheeah, and the restive +prancing of the horse was not unlike the dancing +about of the cockle-shell bark to which I had been +condemned for the last ten days. The <i>British Garden</i> +I found to be a splendid horticultural developement, +containing the choicest fruit-trees of North Africa, with +ornamental trees of every shape, and hue, and foliage—all +the growth of thirty years, and the greater part of +them planted by the hands of Colonel <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Warrignton'">Warrington</ins> himself. +The villa is on the site of an ancient haunted +house—for what country does not boast of its haunted +house? The spot which once was visited nightly by +some Saracen's-head ghost, in the midst of a waste, is +now the fairest, loveliest garden of Tripoli! Amongst +its rich fruit-trees is an immense peach-tree—the largest +in all this part of Africa. It is a round, squatting, +wide-spreading tree, not nailed up to the walls, but the +size of its girth of boughs is enormous.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-17" id="V1-17"></a>[<a href="images/1-17.png">17</a>]</span></p> + +<p>I must take the liberty of leaving off daily dates here. +I detest daily note-writing, although the reader may find +for his peculiar infliction so long a journal as these pages.</p> + +<p><i>19th.</i>—A <i>ghiblee</i> day. The wind from The Desert +is coming with a vengeance. Its breath is the pure +flame of the furnace. I am obliged to tie a handkerchief +over my face in passing through the verandahs of +the garden. I had not the least idea it could be so hot +here in the middle of May. At 2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> the thermometer +in the sun was at 142° Fahrenheit.</p> + +<p>Neither Tunis nor Tripoli has been sufficiently appreciated +by the politicians of Europe. Indian and American +affairs are the two ideas which occupy our merchants. +And yet the best informed of the consuls in +Tripoli say, "The future battles of Europe will be fought +in North Africa." At this time there is considerable +agitation and political intrigue afoot here. Algerian +politics, also, envenom these squabbles.</p> + +<p>The aspect of the city of Tripoli is the most miserable +of all the towns I have seen in North Africa. And they +say, "It grows worse and worse." Yet the present +Pasha, Mehemet, is esteemed as a good and sensible +man. Unfortunately, a Turkish Governor can have very +little or no interest in the permanent prosperity of this +country. His tenure of office is very insecure, and rarely +extends beyond four or five years; so that whilst here +he only thinks of providing for himself. The country is +therefore in a continual state of impoverishment as +governed by successive pashas. Each successive high +functionary works and fleeces the people to the uttermost. +Even in our own colonies the exception is, that +the Governor cares more for the welfare of the colony<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-18" id="V1-18"></a>[<a href="images/1-18.png">18</a>]</span> +than for his own immediate benefit. In Turkish colonies +we must therefore expect the rule to be, that the +Pasha should govern only for his private benefit and +personal aggrandizement.</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i>—This afternoon His Highness Mehemet Pasha +had arranged to grant me an interview. I was introduced, +of course, by our Consul-General, Colonel Warrington. +Mr. Casolaina, the Chancellor of the Consulate, +and his son, were in attendance as interpreters. His +Highness receives all strangers and transacts all business +in an apartment of the celebrated old castle of the +Karamanly Bashaws, whose legends of blood and intrigue +have been so vividly and terrifically transcribed in +<i>Tully's Tripoline Letters</i>. On entering this place I was +astonished at its ruinous and repulsive appearance. +Nothing could better resemble a prison, and yet a prison +in the most dilapidated condition. Walking through the +dark, winding, damp, mildewy passages, shedding down +upon us a pestiferous dungeon influence, Colonel Warrington +suddenly stopped, as if to breathe and repel +the deadly miasma, and turning to me, said: "Well, +Richardson, what do you think of this? Capital place +this for young ladies to dance in, so light and airy. +Many a poor wretch has entered here, with promises of +fortune and royal favour, and has met his doom at the +hand of the assassin! In my long course of service, +how many Kaëds and Sheikhs I have known, who have +come in here and have never gone out. I'm a great +reader of Shakspeare. It's the next book after the +Bible. But a thousand Shakspeares, with all their tragic +genius, could never describe the passions which have +worked, and the horrors which have been perpetrated, in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-19" id="V1-19"></a>[<a href="images/1-19.png">19</a>]</span> +this place." The Colonel's tragic harangue was not without +its effect in these dungeon passages, and the old +gentleman seemed to enjoy the shiver which he saw +involuntarily agitate me. Indeed, the darksome noisome +atmosphere, without this tragic appeal, could not fail to +make itself felt, as Egyptian darkness was felt, after +leaving the fiery heat and bright dazzling sun-light without. +Winding about from one ruinous room to another, +and ascending various flights of tumbling-down steps +and stairs, we got up at length to the eastern end, where +there are two or three new apartments constructed in +the modern style. In one of them, not unlike a city +merchant's receiving-parlour, we found the Pasha and his +court. We were immediately introduced, and somewhat +to my surprise, I found His Highness an extremely plain +<i>unmilitary</i>-looking Turkish gentleman, of about fifty +years of age, and dressed without the least pretensions +of any kind. How unlike the ancient gemmed +and jewelled Bashaws! flaming in "Barbaric pearl and +gold." The present Ottoman costume is most simple. +His Highness had only the <i>Nisham</i>, or Turkish decoration +of brilliants upon his breast, to distinguish him +from his own domestics, coffee-bearers, or others. As +soon as he saw us, he hurriedly came up to us and seized +hold of our hands and shook them cordially. The troops +were at the moment being reviewed, and we had a good +sight of them from our elevated position. They were +manœuvring on the sea-beach between the city and the +Masheeah. "Tell the Bashaw," cried out the Colonel to +Casolaina, "I never saw such splendid manœuvring in all +the course of my life. They do His Highness and Ahmed +Bashaw, the Commander-in-Chief, infinite credit." This<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-20" id="V1-20"></a>[<a href="images/1-20.png">20</a>]</span> +compliment was interpreted and graciously received +though its value was no doubt properly appreciated by +the politic Turk. The Colonel continued:—"Tell the +Bashaw, that as long as the Sultan has such troops as +these, he will be invincible." This was answered by, +"<i>Enshallah</i>, <i>enshallah</i>, (If God pleases, if God pleases)". +The Colonel still laid it on:—"Casolaina, tell the Bashaw, +I myself should not like to command even English troops +against these fine fellows." To which the Bashaw and +his Court replied, "<i>Ajeeb</i>, (Wonderful!)" Ahmed Bashaw, +the Commander-in-Chief, a most ferocious-looking Turk, +seized hold of my shoulders and pushed me to the window +to admire his brilliant men. I could just see that their +manœuvrings were in the style of the "awkward squad;" +but their arms and white pantaloons dazzled beautifully +in the sun upon the margin of the deep-blue sea.</p> + +<p>After we had satisfied our curiosity or admiration in +looking at the troops, the windows were shut down, and +all sat down to business. His Highness began by asking +my name, when I came, and what I was going to be +about? The Consul replied to these first and usual +questions of Turkish functionaries, and more particularly +explained my projected visit to Ghadames. The Pasha +immediately consented, as a matter of course, with +Turkish politeness; but before the interview was concluded, +various objections were started and insisted upon, +showing the <i>not</i> suddenly excited jealousy of these functionaries, +who, previous to my interview, knew all about +my anti-slavery and literary projects. His Highness +observed:—"The heat is killing now, the distance is +great, the road is infested with robbers; I shall have to +send an escort of five hundred troops with your friend,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-21" id="V1-21"></a>[<a href="images/1-21.png">21</a>]</span> +(addressing the Consul); not long ago two hundred +banditti attacked a caravan. All Tunisian Arabs are +robbers; the Bey of that country cannot maintain order +in his country; besides, an Arab will kill ten men to +get one pair of pistols; but I'll make further inquiries." +His Highness also related a feat of his own troops, who +captured seven camels from the banditti, which he said +he distributed amongst the captors. He also gave his +own people, the Tripolines, a very bad character. But, +of course, the Tripolines and the Turks must mutually +hate one another. We were served with pipes, coffee, +and sherbet. I pretended to sip the pipe two or three +times, as a matter of politeness, for though I have been +in Barbary some time, where smoking is universal, I have +not adopted the dirty vice. Near the Pasha sat the +second in command, or Commander-in-Chief of the forces, +the Pasha himself devoting his attention almost exclusively +to civil affairs. As I have said, this functionary +was a most savage-looking fellow, and his acts in +Tripoli and his reputation accord with the character +broadly stamped on his countenance. He has risen from +the lowest ranks—one of the <i>canaille</i> of the Levant—and +is blood-thirsty and vindictive whenever he has the +means of showing these dreadful passions. How many +tyrants have risen from the ranks of those who are the +victims and objects of tyranny!</p> + +<p>The Consul hinted to me afterwards, that this military +tyrant would oppose my journey to the interior, and +throw all sorts of obstacles in the way, but thought the +Pasha would not listen to his insinuations. On asking +the Consul what he thought of the objections of the +Pasha? he said: "Oh, they are only to increase the +merit of his facilitating your trip." Mehemet Pasha has<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-22" id="V1-22"></a>[<a href="images/1-22.png">22</a>]</span> +the rank of three tails, and the Pasha of the Troops +two tails. There was present also Mohammed Aly, a +Moor, who interprets between the Moors and Arabs, and +the Turks. He is said to be entirely in the interest of +the English. He frequently visits the Vice-Consul, Mr. +Herbert Warrington, who treats the interpreter with +a bottle of champaigne, and in this way things are +greatly smoothed down before His Highness. A glass of +wine is often more potent than an elaborate speech in +these and other diplomatic transactions. It is but justice +to these functionaries to say, whatever money they +may take away from Tripoli, that they are very moderate +in their style of living and dress in this place. The apartment +in which we were received was exceedingly plain. +All the furniture was of the most ordinary European +stuff; there was nothing oriental in it but a large square +ottoman. A few flowers were placed gracefully on the +table, and there was a pretty bronzed lamp. We visitors +sat on cane-bottomed chairs. The costume of these high +functionaries was the usual large Turkish frock-coat, +tightly buttoned up, and white or other light-coloured +pantaloons, for summer wear, and these strapped over +thick heavy black leather shoes, the straps often inside +the shoes as an Ottoman improvement on the European +fashion. The head was covered with the <i>shasheeah</i>, or +fez, with a large blue silk tassel hanging prettily from the +crown. On the breast hung the <i>Nisham</i> decoration, distinguishing +the various grades and rank.</p> + +<p>We left His Highness under the impression that he +would do every thing in his power to forward our views, +and never dreamt of a future memorandum of recall +after having reached Ghadames with His Highness's permission.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-23" id="V1-23"></a>[<a href="images/1-23.png">23</a>]</span></p> + +<p>It is not now my intention to give an account of +Tripoli, so I pass on to a second interview I had with the +Bashaw. This was on the 7th of July. In this long +interval, I had been waiting for letters from England, and +in every way was learning lessons of most imperturbable +patience.</p> + +<p>I was visiting some sick officers in the castle with a +Maltese doctor of the name of <i>Gameo</i>, whose acquaintance +I had made, and whom I found useful in collecting +information on Tripoli and the interior, when one of the +functionaries of the Castle came to tell me the Bashaw +would like to see me. I felt some delicacy in going, but +thought it better to comply with the wish of His Highness. +There was immediately presented to me, as usual +to all visitors, a pipe, coffee, and sherbet. Our interview +lasted about half an hour, and the conversation was <i>to +the point</i>, referring solely to my journey to the interior. +But, although I exerted all my skill and tact, I could not +remove the jealousies of His Highness, and I believe for +one, and only one reason. It had been given out in +Tripoli that I was to be appointed Consul at Ghadames. +The Bashaw fearing that such an appointment would +interfere with his system of extorting money from the +inhabitants of that country (the treasury being empty in +Tripoli), set his face against my journey, and endeavoured +to delay it until he could get a <i>counter</i> order +from Constantinople. His Highness was however very +polite, and promised to furnish me with tents, if I had +need, and a large escort. The Turks are getting sensitive +of the press. The Bashaw said he had heard I was a +great newspaper writer, and asked me if I had any objection +to writing an article in his praise.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-24" id="V1-24"></a>[<a href="images/1-24.png">24</a>]</span></p> + +<p>At the end of the month of July (30th), Colonel +Warrington suggested to me the propriety of writing to +him a letter, stating my wish and objects in visiting the +interior. I did so, and received an answer from the +Colonel the same day. Mr. Frederick Warrington, who +had great influence with several people about His Highness, +and myself, went again to the Bashaw, in order to +conciliate His Highness and persuade him to give a +<i>bonâ fide</i> protection to me through the interior of +Tripoli, as also to obtain a passport. It unfortunately +happened, that about a week ago, a Ghadames caravan +had been captured by some hostile Arabs on the frontiers +of Tunis. His Highness immediately produced this case, +and said it was impossible for me to go whilst the routes +were so insecure. He also alleged, and with more +reason:—"The season was now too late, the heat was +intolerable, and an European of my delicate constitution +must succumb." We therefore returned much depressed. +Colonel Warrington then, annoyed at the Bashaw's +resistance, wrote the next day a letter to his Chancellor, +requesting him to wait upon the Bashaw, and demand +formally a passport for me, my servant, and camel-driver. +I went with Mr. Casolaina, but did not see His Highness, +waiting only at the door of the hall of audience, in case +I should be wanted. His Highness apologized for his +opposition, stating his objections of the season and the +insecurity of the routes, but gave the order for the passports. +I find the following note in my journal:—"Left +Tripoli for Ghadames on the 2nd August, 1845; I had +grown completely tired of Tripoli, and left it without a +single regret, having suffered much from several sources +of annoyance, including both the Consulate and the +Bashaw."</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-6" id="FoN_1-6"></a><a href="#FNa_1-6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Many newspaper articles have been written, and companies +formed, for the promotion of exploring for sulphur in Tripoli (the +Syrtis); but somehow or other, all these schemes have failed. I +have been told there is sulphur in the Syrtis, and the failure of +obtaining it in remunerative quantity is to be attributed alone to +the chicanery or want of skill in the agent.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-7" id="FoN_1-7"></a><a href="#FNa_1-7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> There is a far greater ebb and flow of tide here than at any +other coast of the Mediterranean, the sea rising and falling no less +than ten feet. This tidal phenomenon extends to the Lesser Syrtis +and to Sfax.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-8" id="FoN_1-8"></a><a href="#FNa_1-8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Like the fish-lakes of Biserta in Tunis, these salt-pits were +worked by the ancients, and have been inexhaustible and unchangeable +through two thousand years. Whatever may be the geological +changes in other regions of the globe, those of North Africa +are not very rapid, beyond filling up a few of the artificial harbours, +or <i>cothons</i>, with mud. Barbary contains several Roman bridges +which have spanned a stream remaining the same size, and running +in the same bed, through a course of centuries. The salt of the +<i>Salinæ</i> is of good quality.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-9" id="FoN_1-9"></a><a href="#FNa_1-9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> <i>Bismillah</i>, "In the name of God," the formula used by Moslems +when they partake of food. In the <i>Lingua Franca</i> we have +sometimes "<i>Avete</i> bismillah?" or "bismillah<i>ato</i>?" that is, "taken +your meal?"</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-10" id="FoN_1-10"></a><a href="#FNa_1-10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> In the present application, for this <i>Lingua Franca</i> word generally +means "vain silly shewing off." The "playing at powder," +or "firing off matchlocks for amusement," is also called a <i>fantazia</i> +in Algeria and Morocco.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-25" id="V1-25"></a>[<a href="images/1-25.png">25</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<h3>FROM TRIPOLI TO THE MOUNTAINS.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Leave Tripoli for the Interior.—Feelings on Starting.—Ghargash.—Gameo, +the great quack of Tripoli.—Janzour.—Account of my +Equipment.—Camels fond of the Cactus.—Arab Tents.—Jedaeen.—Zouweeah.—The +Sahara.—Beer-el-Hamra.—Squabbling +at the Wells.—The strength of Caravan, and character of +Escort.—Shouwabeeah.—Difficulty of keeping the Caravan +together.—Camels cropping herbage <i>en route</i>.—The <i>Kailah</i> or +<i>Siesta</i>.—Arab Troops seize the Water of the Merchants.—Wady +Lethel.—Irregular March of the Caravan.—Aâeeat.—Descent +into Wells.—Learn the value of Water.—The Atlas and its +Tripoline divisions and subdivisions.—The ascent of Yefran, +and its Castle.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Nothing</span> is more common than that, after long delay +and various negotiations, in waiting and preparing for a +journey, everything at last is hurried with a most reckless +dispatch; this, at least, was the case with me. I +was to have been escorted out of Tripoli by the Consular +corps, with the British Consul at their head, in the +wonted style of Europeans setting out for the interior. +But on the morning of the 2nd August, before I could +finish my letters for England, or get my luggage together, +came my camel-driver Mohammed, who, at the +sight of my papers all spread out, began whining and +blubbering, protesting, "The <i>ghafalah</i><a name="FNa_1-11" id="FNa_1-11"></a><a href="#FoN_1-11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> is gone; we can't +overtake it—we shall be murdered, if we delay behind." +Without saying a word in reply, I amassed and bundled<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-26" id="V1-26"></a>[<a href="images/1-26.png">26</a>]</span> +up everything together, and gave him the baggage; then +went off to the <i>Souk</i>, or market-place, to buy some fresh +bread,—and found myself on the way to Ghadames, before +I was conscious of having left Tripoli. Such is the excitement +and vagaries of human feeling! Not being +accustomed to mount the camel, I determined to hire +some donkeys to ride to the first station; Gameo and +one of his brothers accompanied me. When I could +breathe freely, as I rode on my unknown way, with a +boundless prospect before me, I felt my heart rebound +with joy, and commended myself humbly to the care of +a good God, not knowing what was to happen to me. I +had consumed three months of most suffering patience in +Tripoli before I could start on this journey, and was +otherwise schooled for what was about to take place. But +I must not begin too early the record of my complaints.</p> + +<p>Our first day's ride was mostly through desert lands, +for The Desert reaches to the walls of the city of Tripoli. +The little village of Gargash was seen at our +right, near the margin of the sea. Gameo exclaimed, +"There's the little mosque—there's the little cemetery—there +are the little gardens, little palms!"—and little +this, and little the other: indeed, it was a perfect miniature +of congregated human existence. Arrived at Janzour, +Gameo and his brother prepared to return. But +previous to his leaving, Gameo, who was a tabeeb of +great notoriety, determined to display his healing art. +He took out his lancet, and forthwith bled everybody +in the Kaëd's caravanseria. When his brother begged +of him not to bleed any more people unless they paid +him something—not to be such a <i>sciocco</i> ("ninny,") he +turned round upon him, and indignantly exclaimed<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-27" id="V1-27"></a>[<a href="images/1-27.png">27</a>]</span> +"Ancora voglio lasciare il mio nome qui" (Here I will +leave my name also!) It was the delight of Gameo to +be the grand tabeeb of Tripoli, and even to prescribe for +the officers and subordinate bashaws; and yet Gameo +and his family many days were without bread to eat, to +my certain knowledge. I relieved them as much as I +could. The Moors and Arabs are very funny about +bleeding, and the matters of the tabeeb; they will ask +you to bleed them when in perfect health. All these +persons who were bled at Janzour had no ailments; +they will also swallow physic, whether well or ill. One +of them consulted Gameo privately how he was to +obtain children from his wife, who was barren. Another +wished to obtain the affections of a girl by administering +to her a dose of medicine. They consider a doctor in +the light, in which our fathers of the time of Friar Bacon +did, of a magician, and a person who holds some sort of +illicit intercourse with the devil, or, at any rate, with +the genii. They never give the doctor credit for his +skill, but attribute his wit and success to the blessing or +interposition of God.</p> + +<p>After taking leave of Gameo, I waited for Mohammed +and Said; we had gone on quickly with the donkeys. +They came up with the camels, but instead of encamping +within the village, the ghafalah had brought up outside. +This annoyed Mohammed, who kept exclaiming, +as we went to the rendezvous of the merchants, "Ah! +Gameo, that's him, Gameo, Gameo! What trouble he +has brought upon us, Gameo! Gameo! he a tabeeb? +Not fit to give physic to a dog. Gameo! Gameo! +always talking—always talking; the devil take him, for +he's his son." We reached the encampment as the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-28" id="V1-28"></a>[<a href="images/1-28.png">28</a>]</span> +shadows of night fell fast; we did not take supper, or +pitch tent. My spirits gave way, and I felt fearful and +saddened at the prospect of going into the interior absolutely +alone. I had not a single letter of recommendation +to any one, after waiting so long at Tripoli, and so +much talk with all sorts of people about the necessity of +having letters for the chiefs of The Desert. This was, +indeed, bad management; yet I could not insist upon +the Pasha giving me a letter, nor could I importune the +British Consul: but it often happens, where there is less +help from man, there is more from God. Many of the +Ghadamsee merchants, whose acquaintance I had made +in Tripoli, came now to me and welcomed me as a +fellow-traveller. Janzour is a small village, with gardens +of olives and date plantations.</p> + +<p><i>August 3rd.</i>—Before starting to-day, it is necessary to +give some account of my equipment. I had two camels +on hire, for which I paid twelve dollars. I was to ride +one continually. We had panniers on it, in which I +stowed away about two months' provisions. A little fresh +provision we were to purchase <i>en route</i>. Upon these +panniers a mattress was placed, forming with them a +comfortable platform. As a luxury, I had a Moorish +pillow for leaning on, given me by Mr. Frederick Warrington. +The camel was neither led nor reined, but +followed the group. I myself was dressed in light European +clothes, and furnished with an umbrella for keeping +off the sun. This latter was all my arms of offence and +defence. The other camel carried a trunk and some +small boxes, cooking utensils, and matting, and a very +light tent for keeping off sun and heat. We had two +gurbahs, or "skin-bags for water," and another we were<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-29" id="V1-29"></a>[<a href="images/1-29.png">29</a>]</span> +to buy in the mountains, so each having a skin of +water to himself. Said was to ride this camel, and +now and then give a ride to Mohammed the camel-driver, +to whom the camels belonged. We were roused before +daylight. I made coffee with my spirit apparatus (<i>spiriterio</i>). +In half an hour after the dawn, we were all on +the move, and soon started. The ghafalah presented an +interminable line of camels, as it wound its slow way +through narrow sandy lanes, hedged on each side with +the cactus or prickly-pear. We progressed very irregularly, +and the camels kept throwing off their burdens. +The Moors and Arabs, who manage almost everything +badly, even hardly know how to manage their camels, +after ages of experience. It is, however, very difficult +to drive the camels past a prickly-pear hedge, they being +voraciously fond of the huge succulent leaves of this +plant, and crop them with the most savage greediness, +regardless of the continual blows, accompanied with loud +shouts, which they receive from the vociferous drivers to +get them forward. I wore my cloak for two hours after +dawn, and felt chilly, and yet at noonday the thermometer +was at least 130° Fah., in the sun. We emerged +from the prickly-pear hedges upon an open desert land. +Here was an encampment of Arabs, with tents as "black" +and "comely" in this glare and fire of the full morning +sun, as "the tents of Kedar!" (See Solomon's Songs i. +5.) Nothing indeed is more refreshing than the sight of +these black camel's-hair tents, when travelling over these +arid thirsty plains. The whole households of the tents +were alive, but their various occupations will be seen +better in the following sketch than pictured to the mind +by any elaborate description.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-30" id="V1-30"></a>[<a href="images/1-30.png">30</a>]</span></p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-04.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-04_th.jpg" alt="Arab Tents" title="Arab Tents" /></a></p> + +<p>Encamped at Jedaeem about 10 o'clock, <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Remained +here only two hours and proceeded to Zouweeah, +a large village, situate in the midst of most pleasant gardens, +or rather cultivated lands, overshadowed with date +groves. These gardens are considered superior to those +of the Masheeah around Tripoli. Passed through the +whole district by 3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, and then entered what is usually +called the Sahara, this side the Mountains. This desert +presents sand hills, loose stones scattered about, dwarf +shrubs, long coarse grass, and sometimes small undulations +of rocky ground. It is, however, overrun by a few +nomade tribes, who feed their flocks on the ungrateful +and scant herbage which it affords. Tripoli, in general +offers a remarkable contrast to Tunis and other parts of +Barbary, in having its Arab tribes located in stone and +mud houses or fixed douwars, whilst nomade Arabs are +found thickly scattered all over the West, as far as the +Atlantic. Zouweeah is the last <i>belad</i>, or <i>paesi</i>, (<i>i. e.</i>, "cul<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-31" id="V1-31"></a>[<a href="images/1-31.png">31</a>]</span>tivated +country,") before we reach The Mountains, which +are two days' journey distant. I therefore sent Mohammed +to buy a small sheep, but he could not succeed +although there were many flocks about, the people absurdly +refusing to sell them, even when the full price was +offered. The Arabs themselves never eat meat as the +rule, but the exception, supporting themselves on the +milk of their flocks and farinaceous matter. Olive-oil +and fat and fruit they devour. Of vegetables they eat, +but with little <i>gusto</i>. Their flocks are kept as a sort of +reserve wealth, and to pay their contributions. Our +course to-day and yesterday was west and south-west. +At sunset we encamped at Beer-el-Hamra ("red-well"), +which is a well-spring of very good water, ten feet deep, +the water issuing from the sides of the rocky soil. Here +we found artificial pits or troughs for the sheep and +cattle to drink from, and trunks of the date-palms hollowed +out for the camels. When a ghafalah passes a +well there is the greatest confusion to get all the camels +to drink, and the people quarrel and fight about this, as +well as for their turn to fill their water-skins. This quarrelling +at the wells forcibly reminds the Biblical reader +of the contest of Moses in favour of the daughters of +Jethro against the ungallant shepherds. (Exodus i. 17.) +We take in no more water till we get to The Mountains.</p> + +<p>Here mention must be made of the strength of our caravan, +as all are to rendezvous at this well for safety, to start +together over The Desert to The Mountains. It was half +a day's advance of this where the Ghadamsee ghafalah had +been lately plundered of all its goods and camels. As +soon as the Sebâah banditti appeared, the merchants, who<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-32" id="V1-32"></a>[<a href="images/1-32.png">32</a>]</span> +were without escort, all ran away like frightened gazelles. +One man alone had his arm scratched. Our ghafalah, +besides casual travellers going to The Mountains, consisted +of some two hundred camels, laden chiefly with +merchandize for the interior, Soudan, and Timbuctoo. +Thirty or forty merchants, nearly all of Ghadames, to +whom the goods belong, accompany these camels. To +ascertain its value would be hopeless, for the merchants, +with the real jealousy of mercantile rivalry, conceal their +affairs from one another. Two of the principal Ghadamsee +merchants are with us, the Sheikh Makouran +and Haj Mansour, besides a son of the great house of +Ettence. These merchants belong to the rival factions of +the city, and accordingly have separate encampments. +The greater number of the merchants of our ghafalah +are only petty traders, some with only a camel-load of +merchandize. We are escorted by sixty Arab troops on +foot, with a commandant and some subordinate sheikhs +on horseback. They are to protect us to The Mountains, +where it is said all danger ends. They are poor, miserable +devils to look at, hungry, lank, lean, and browned to +blackness, armed with matchlocks, which continually miss +fire, and covered with rags, or mostly having only a single +blanket to cover their dirty and emaciated bodies. Some +are without shoes, and others have a piece of camel's +skin cut in the shape of a sole of the foot, and tied up +round the ankles: some have a scull-cap, white or red, +and others are bare-headed. I laughed when I surveyed +with my inexperienced eye these grisly, skeleton, phantom +troops, and thought of the splendid invincible guard +which the Pasha promised me. And yet amongst these +wretched beings was riding sublime an Arab Falstaff.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-33" id="V1-33"></a>[<a href="images/1-33.png">33</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>4th.</i>—Morning. Find the greater part of the ghafalah +has not yet come up. We are to wait for them, being +the advanced body. Expect them in the afternoon. +It is exceedingly difficult to keep these various groups of +merchants together; each group is its own sovereign +master and will have its own way. The commandant +is constantly swearing at each party to get all to march +together; now and then he draws his sword and shakes it +over their heads. "You are dogs," he says to one; +"you are worse than this Christian Kafer amongst us," +(myself,) he bawls to another.</p> + +<p>Have, thank God, suffered little up to now, although +intensely hot in the day-time, and my eyes so bad that I +cannot look at the sun, and scarcely on daylight without a +shade. They were bad on leaving Tripoli, having caught +a severe ophthalmia from the refraction of the hot rocks +when bathing. My left arm is also still very weak, from +the accident of falling into a dry well a little before I +started. I can't mount the camel without assistance, but +begin to ride without that sickly sensation, not unlike +sea-sickness, which I felt the first day's riding. Drink +brandy frequently, but in small quantities and greatly +diluted, and find great benefit from it; drink also coffee +and tea. Eat but little, and scarcely any meat. The +Arabs of the country brought a few sheep to sell this +morning, but asked double the Tripoli price; so nobody +purchased. Bought myself a fowl for eighty Turkish +paras. The people of the ghafalah civil, but all the +lower classes will beg continually if you are willing to +give. Each one offers his advice and consolation on my +tour; but Mohammed keeps all the hungry Arabs at a +respectable distance, lest I should give to them what<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-34" id="V1-34"></a>[<a href="images/1-34.png">34</a>]</span> +belongs to his share, like servants who don't wish their +masters to be generous to others if it interferes with their +own prerogatives.</p> + +<p>We left in the afternoon and encamped in The Desert +at Shouwabeeah. The Desert here presents nothing but +long coarse grass and undulating ground. I observed a +patch which had been cultivated, the stubble of barley +remaining, which the camels devoured most voraciously. +Chopped barley-straw is the favourite food of all animals +of burden in North Africa; horses will feed on it for six +months together, and get fat. <i>En route</i> the chief of the +escort had great trouble to keep the caravan together; +he made the advanced parties wait till the others +came up, so as all to be ready in case of attack. One +would think the merchants, for their own sakes, would +keep together; but no, it's all <i>maktoub</i> with them; "If +they are to be robbed and murdered they must be robbed +and murdered, and the Bashaw and all his troops can't +prevent it." This they reiterated to me whilst the commandant +bullied them; and yet these same men had +each of them a matchlock and pistols besides. The +Sheikh Makouran had no less than four guns on his +camel. I asked him what they were for. He coolly +replied, "I don't know. God knows." The camels +browse or crop herbage all the way along, daintily picking +and choosing the herbage and shrubs which they like +best. My chief occupation in riding is watching them +browse, and observing the epicurean fancies of these +reflective, sober-thinking brutes of The Desert. I observe +also as a happy trait in the Arab, that nothing delights +him more than watching his own faithful camel graze. +The ordinary drivers sometimes allow them to graze,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-35" id="V1-35"></a>[<a href="images/1-35.png">35</a>]</span> +and wait till they have cropped their favourite herbage +and shrubs, and at other times push them forward +according to their caprice. The camel, with an intuitive +perception, knows all the edible and delicate herbs and +shrubs of The Desert, and when he finds one of his +choicest it is difficult to get him on until he has cropped +a good mouthful. But I shall have much to write of +this sentient "ship of The Desert." It is hard to +forget the ship which carries one safely over the ocean, +whose plank intervenes between our life and a bottomless +grave of waters: so we tourists of The Desert acquire a +peculiar affection for the melancholy animal, whose slow +but faithful step carries us through the hideous wastes of +sand and stone, where all life is extinct, and where, if +left a moment behind the camel's track, certain death +follows.</p> + +<p><i>5th.</i>—Rose at daybreak, and pursued our way through +the Desert. Saw the mountains early, stretching far +away east and west in undefined and shadowy but glorious +magnificence,—some of deep black hue, and others +reddened over with the morning sunbeams. It is a gladdening, +elevating sight. The presence of a vast range of +mountains always raises the mind and imagination of +man. Encamped during the <i>Kailah</i> ‮قايلة‬, or from 10 +o'clock <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, to 3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> This is the siesta of the +Spaniards, and it is probable the Moors introduced it +into Spain. It is also the mezzogiorno of the Italians +and the Frank population of Barbary. But the Italians +usually dine before they take their midday nap. Our +object here is to shelter ourselves from the greatest force +of the heat of the day. None of us dine. In the +afternoon the Arab soldiers, being without water, began<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-36" id="V1-36"></a>[<a href="images/1-36.png">36</a>]</span> +to seize that of the merchants, after having demanded it +from them in vain. In one case they robbed a merchant +under the pretext of getting water. They also attempted +to take water from my camels, but I resisted, threatening +to report them to the Bashaw. After a scuffle with my +negro servant and camel-driver, in which affair Said drew +out manfully from the scabbard the old rusty sword +which I presented to him on leaving Tripoli—to gird +round him as a warrior badge—they desisted and +retreated. The sub-officer of the escort came up to me +afterwards, and begged that I would say nothing about +the business. I gave him a suck of brandy-and-water, +and we were mighty good friends all the way. Our +course was south to-day, striking directly at The Mountains. +We encamped about midnight at the Wady +Lethel, the name of which is derived from the tree +<i>Lethel</i> ‮لذل‬, frequent in the Sahara.</p> + +<p>With regard to the conduct of the poor Arab soldiers, +justice requires it to be said, that they are allowed +nothing for the service of the escort, whilst if they do +not serve when they are called upon, they are fined. The +consequence is, they generally have nothing to eat, and +no skins to put their water in. Perhaps a camel with a +couple of skins is allowed to twenty men. As there was +water for scarcely two days of our slow marching, (we +only march about twelve hours per day,) these miserable +victims of Turkish rule had no water left. It is hunger +and misery in this, as in most cases amongst the poor, +and not the native unwillingness of the heart to perform +good actions, which excite them to deeds of violence and +plunder. This night the heavens presented an appearance +of unexampled serenity and soft splendour; all the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-37" id="V1-37"></a>[<a href="images/1-37.png">37</a>]</span> +constellations glowed with a steady beauteous light; there +were the "sweet influences of Pleiades," the bright +"bands of Orion," "Arcturus with his sons," and the infinitude +of sparkling jewels in "chambers of the South." +All the stars might be seen and counted, so distinctly +visible were they to the naked unassisted eye. In encamping +our ghafalah carried on its delightful system of +confusion, and the night fires of the various groups glared +wildly in every direction. I had not yet become familiar +with these nocturnal lights of Saharan travelling, and my +senses were confounded. I felt tormented as with an +enchanter's delusive fire-works in some half-waking +dream.</p> + +<p><i>6th.</i>—Rose at day-break. Our route was now over +a vast level plain, and we were within four hours of The +Mountains. They now discovered the true Atlas features, +a part of which chain they were. We marched in +the most glorious disorder. Some were before, some +behind, straggling along, others far to the right, and +others as far to the left, a mile or two apart. We had +the appearance of an immense line moving on to invest +The Mountains <i>en masse</i>, for there seemed to be no common +point to which we were advancing in such tumultuous +array. The Arabs pay little attention to marching +in order, and in a straight line, so that the camels +traverse double the quantity of ground that there would +be any occasion for did they attend to plain common +sense. The Desert now showed more signs of cultivation, +and, indeed, a great portion of this so-called Desert is +only land uncultivated, but capable of the highest degree +of cultivation;—all which might be effected by supplying +any scarcity of rain by irrigation.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-38" id="V1-38"></a>[<a href="images/1-38.png">38</a>]</span></p> + +<p>We passed the kailah, or in Scripture phrase, "the +heat of the day," at a place called Aâeeat, below The +Mountains, where we found two wells without water, or +with very little bad, dirty, nay, black water. Nevertheless, +many descended these wells, about thirty feet deep, +to bring up the muddy filthy water, and swallowed it +immediately. I myself was so thirsty, that I drank it +greedily. Said had very severe thirst, and I believe he +drank in one of the last two days nearly a bucket and a +half of water. I finished two bottles of brandy, having +diluted it with large quantities of water. I believe this +was the only thing which kept me alive, the heat was so +intense and prostrating in the day-time. I am astonished +to see these people descend into the wells with +such facility. I expected, on the contrary, to see them +break their necks. They descend by the sides, only +assisted by their hands and feet, clinging to naked +stones, the interstices of which in some places not even +allowing space on which to rest the foot. Here again is +hubbub and vociferation of the wildest form, all sorts of +quarrelling over this sewer-like water. I now, for the +first time in my life, experienced the real value of water, +and in these climates more clearly understood the vivid +and frequent allusions in the Holy Scriptures to this +essential element of existence. Mohammed went several +miles in The Mountains, and returned with a skin of fresh +water. In his absence the torment of thirst prostrated +me, and I lay senseless on the ground:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The water! the water!</span> +<span class="i1">My heart yet burns to think,</span> +<span class="i0">How cool thy fountain sparkled forth,</span> +<span class="i1">For parched lips to drink."</span> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-39" id="V1-39"></a>[<a href="images/1-39.png">39</a>]</span></div></div> + +<p>After the Kailah, we ascended that portion of the +Tripoline chain of the Atlas called Yefran. This chain +has various names, according to its different links, or +groups, more properly, for the usual phenomena of the +Atlas are groups, pile upon pile. The following are +some of the principal names of this part of the Atlas, +beginning east and proceeding west: Gharian, Kiklah, +Yefran or <i>Jibel</i>, ("Mountain," par excellence,) Nouwaheeha, +Khalaeefah, Reeaneen, Zantan, Rujban, Douweerat. +All these larger districts are divided into smaller +ones, descending to very minute subdivisions. Every +dell, and copse, and glade, and brook, and stream, and +drain, (to use English nomenclature,) of these mountains, +is defined, and owned, and cultivated, as the most +cultivated, divided, and subdivided estate in England. +It is quite ridiculous to look upon the Atlas chains as so +many vast uninhabited wastes. The French, whose forte +in colonization is blundering, rushed into the plateaus +and groups of the Atlas as into lands unowned and +undefined, and were quite astonished to hear of claimants +for their newly acquired lands and farms. They +imagined that the plains of the Metidjah and the adjacent +Atlas chain had lain desolate since the Creation, or +were only wandered over by savage hordes of barbarians.</p> + +<p>We found the ascent of Yefran difficult. The Arabs +call all places difficult of traverse, Wâr—‮وعر‬—whether applied +to stony rocky ground, sandy regions, or mountains. +The camels in the ascent are timid, and besides the evident +fatigue which they experience, show great caution, +picking slowly their way with the greatest circumspection. +Only a portion of the ghafalah got up to-day. +Some camels were labouring up the mountain sides,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-40" id="V1-40"></a>[<a href="images/1-40.png">40</a>]</span> +others threw off their burdens and stood still. As our +party was always the advanced, we managed to get +up soon. Beneath a huge old black olive-tree, which +seemed to have begun with Creation, but still as vigorous +as ever, we found a comfortable shade in a snug retired +place. It was cooler on the top of The Mountains, and +I took a walk in the evening to the Castle (Kesar) of +Yefran, a most formidable thing to look at from a distance, +but a wretched mud-built place in reality. To +the Arabs, however, it is a terrible bulwark of strength, +and for them impregnable. Everything in the shape of a +fort or a blockhouse, be it ever so untenable or miserable, +terrifies the Arabs. It is repeatedly asserted that the +Arabs of Algeria never took a blockhouse. An authentic +anecdote was recently related to me of a French civilian +keeping a whole tribe in check for two days, by fortifying +his house and firing from loop-holes which he made in +its walls. Not so the Kabyles. Their genius is defending +their little forts, often constructed of loose stones, in +their mountain homes. Behind these and other forts of +nature they maintain for days an obstinate resistance, +and pour deadly mitraille. The Turkish soldiers were +here lounging about; they gaped and stared at me. +I am, perhaps, the first European who has been to +Yefran in the memory of the present generation, nay, +the first European Christian who has visited this spot. +The sun now set fiery red, and night was fast veiling +The Mountains with her sable curtain. I retired to my +olive-tree, and under its shade slept most profoundly. +This was repose—this, sleep! I shall never sleep in +more profound slumbers until I sleep my last.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-11" id="FoN_1-11"></a><a href="#FNa_1-11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Ghafalah, ‮قفله‬, is the ordinary term for a caravan in North +Africa.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-41" id="V1-41"></a>[<a href="images/1-41.png">41</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<h3>FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO GHADAMES.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Interview with the Commandant of The Mountains.—Military +Position occupied by the Turks.—Subjugation of the Arabs.—My +different Appellations.—Departure for, and arrival at, Rujban, +native place of my Camel-driver.—Aspect of The +Mountains.—Miserable condition of the Inhabitants.—Cruelty of the +Tribute Collectors.—Marabouts exempt.—Curiosity of the +Women to see The Christian.—Social Habits of the People.—Politics +in The Mountains.—Visit from The Sheikh.—Various +Conversations and Visitors.—Heat of the Weather.—The Sheikh +offers to sell me his Authority.—Want of Rain.—Population.—The +playing with the Head.—Pervading principle of Religion.—The +Sheikh in a bad humour, and misery of Life in The Mountains.—Departure +from The Mountains.—Description of the +four days' journey from The Mountains to the Oasis of Senawan.—Dreadful +sufferings from Heat and want of Sleep.—Provisions +of the Caravan.—Stratagem to preserve Water.—Second Christening +in The Desert.—Senawan and its group of Oases.—Resume +our Journey.—Emjessem.—Met by a party of Friends +from Ghadames.—Quarrel about Said.—First sight of Ghadames.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>7th.</i>—<span class="smcap">Was</span> awaked by a young man, who said he had +brought for "the Consul of Ghadames" (myself) a brace +of partridges, some milk, and grapes, from the secretary +of the Commandant. Drank a large basin of milk and +coffee, and went to pay a visit to the Commandant. +Found all the principal Ghadamsee merchants at the +Castle, closeted in a small apartment with the Commandant, +Ahmed Effendi, talking over the affairs of the +ghafalah. At first I imagined this officer had brought +them up from Yefran to make them pay black-mail in +various presents. But it was only his vanity which<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-42" id="V1-42"></a>[<a href="images/1-42.png">42</a>]</span> +dragged up the poor camels this fatiguing route, an ascent +of four hours. Our direct route to Ghadames would have +been half a day farther west. He said he had merely +sent for the merchants to ask them how they were, and +give them his blessing. When I entered, a stool was +brought me to sit upon. The Rais<a name="FNa_1-12" id="FNa_1-12"></a><a href="#FoN_1-12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> was seated on a +raised bench covered with an ottoman, and the merchants +were squatted on their hams upon the matting and carpets +of the floor. Coffee was brought me, as to most +visitors. The Rais asked me where I was going? and +what I was doing? as if he knew nothing about me. I +then had my palaver, and represented to the Rais the +case of taking by force water from the merchants, which +took him quite aback, and astonished all present, the +merchants secretly admiring the boldness of the remonstrance. +But it was one of those unpleasant duties +which are absolutely necessary to be performed. In +our case it was necessary for our own health and the +order and security of the caravan. The Rais surprised +and displeased, nevertheless gave strict orders that it +should not happen again. The merchants afterwards +expressed their thanks to me; seeing plainly also the advantage +of having one amongst them who was not immediately +subject to the Pasha and his soldiers. Besides, +I hinted to the Rais it would be better if the ghafalah +marched more in order, and had a chief. This the Rais +discussed with the merchants, and it was considered +advisable to adopt these common sense measures, they, +however, laughing heartily at my European ideas of +order. I then begged the Rais to persuade the people to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-43" id="V1-43"></a>[<a href="images/1-43.png">43</a>]</span> +travel by night, as this was the hottest season in the +year, and being a new traveller in The Desert, I could +scarcely support the heat. He replied it would be better +for all as we were not now likely to be molested with +hostile Arabs. Before separating, a marabout made a +short prayer (the <i>fatah</i>) for the safety of the caravan. +This prayer, the first chapter of the Koran, is never +omitted on these occasions. Ahmed Effendi is a very +smart Turk, in the vigour of age and health, and has the +character of being very stringent in his administration. +People call him "<i>kus</i>," or hard and determined in disposition; +but he is not ferocious, like the Commander-in-Chief. +His countenance betrayed a very active intelligence. +He said to me aside: "Now these people you are +travelling with are barbarians; you must humour their +whims and respect their religion. If they were not now +present, we would have a bottle of wine together."</p> + +<p>The garrison of Yefran contains some two or three +hundred Turkish soldiers, as also that of Gharian, besides +Arab troops. The Arabs of these districts are entirely +subdued, their native courage apparently dried up and +extinct. This has been done chiefly by forced emigration +or extermination. The French acquired their +<i>razzia</i> system from the Turks whom they found in possession +of the government of Algiers, on the conquest of +that country; but they have improved on it, for a superior +intelligence imitating a bad system, will always +increase its cruelty and wickedness. We passed many +villages depopulated, their humble dwellings razed to the +ground—the work of the ferocious Ahmed Bashaw, who +came in person to these mountains. A great deal of +fighting had taken place near the Castle, and there were<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-44" id="V1-44"></a>[<a href="images/1-44.png">44</a>]</span> +the ruins of a very large village on one of the neighbouring +peaks. Yefran is a very strong position, and was +hotly contested by both parties. In all these mountain +districts very few inhabitants are seen, and the present +cultivation is therefore insignificant. The people are +without money or stock, and have scarcely anything to +eat. The single advantage of Turkish rule here is, a +large military road cut from the plain to the summit, on +which the fort stands, but, of course, as a military road, +it was not made specifically for the improvement of the +people. Certainly the Turks must show more civilized +and polite manners to the mountaineers, but the Arabs +will not imitate them, or, if anything they do imitate, as +in the case of all subjected nations in relation to their conquerors, +it is the vices of their masters. It is unfortunately +much the same when the Turks imitate us Christians.</p> + +<p>Bought some meat cheap at Yefran, but my camel-driver +afterwards stole the greater part. The secretary +of the Rais, Bou Asher, who knew the Vice-consul of +Fezzan, showed me some kindness, and sent me again +milk, which he said was the right of "The Consul." I +had also received a nice delicious little present of a melon +from the Sheikh Makouran <i>en route</i>. These were the +first proofs of a friendly disposition of the natives +towards me, and were most thankfully appreciated. +The people called me <i>Taleb</i> ("learned man"), or <i>Tabeeb</i> +("doctor"), or Consul, or the Christian, just as their caprice +or information led them<a name="FNa_1-13" id="FNa_1-13"></a><a href="#FoN_1-13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>. Here all the merchants<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-45" id="V1-45"></a>[<a href="images/1-45.png">45</a>]</span> +determined to stop a week, some going to one part of The +Mountains, and some to the other, to purchase oil, barley +and <i>gurbahs</i> ("water-skins"). Many travellers, who had +availed themselves of our escort to The Mountains, here +left us.</p> + +<p>I left in the afternoon for the native country of my +camel-driver, and encamped for the night in The Mountains. +Our party consisted only of the camel-driver, +Said, and myself, with three camels. I must say I felt +rather queer knocking about in The Mountains, almost +alone.</p> + +<p><i>8th.</i>—Rose early, and pursued our way. The air of +this elevated region invigorated my mind and body; and +so by a mishap I took no coffee before starting. Passed +the kailah under a group of olive trees, called "The +Sisters<a name="FNa_1-14" id="FNa_1-14"></a><a href="#FoN_1-14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>," where also flocks of sheep and shepherds were +dosing and reposing under the shade. We exchanged +biscuits for milk. The shepherds were giving their dogs +to drink, and made me wait until they had drunk their +fill, thinking no doubt that their dogs were as good as "a +Christian dog," (the ordinary epithet of abuse applied by +Mussulmans to Christians). I had my revenge, for when +I had drank my milk, I took good care to give +them only a fair and exact return of biscuits, which +made them ask for more, but which I refused. Started +again, and did not arrive at Mohammed's village, in the +district of Rujban, till after midnight. It was a most<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-46" id="V1-46"></a>[<a href="images/1-46.png">46</a>]</span> +wearisome ride. I kept asking Mohammed, "how far +the village was off?" He would say, "Now three +hours;" in two hours after, it was still "three hours;" in +two hours after that, it was still "two hours and a half;" +it was "near" when it was six hours before we arrived; +it was "close by us," three hours before we arrived, &c. &c. +But an Arab will often tell you a place is just under +your nose when it is at a day's journey distant, pointing +to it as if he saw it within a musket-shot. I was highly +exasperated at Mohammed, because we had delayed to +eat anything all day long, upon his representing to me +that we should arrive an hour after sunset. But the +milk acted like a purgative, and was perhaps advantageous. +No people were seen in The Mountains, and +very little cultivation. There were a few modern antiquities, +chiefly the stones of Moorish forts and castles. +Many villages in ruins, destroyed in the late wars. And +Mohammed, like a thoughtless idiot, ridiculed the rude +desolations of his brethren, exulting and calling out to +me to see "the cooking places." Many parts had the +geological features of the Sahel, or hilly country in the +neighbourhood of the city of Algiers. The air was pure +and cool. But though it was calm this day and the +evening, a sudden tempest got up after midnight. I was +lying on the bare ground rolled in a blanket, when the +wind tore it from off me, and I was obliged to retreat to +a hovel. I am told these tempests are frequent in The +Mountains, no doubt arising from the intense heat rarefying +the air.</p> + +<p><i>9th.</i>—Slept the greater part of this day to recover +from the fatigue of the preceding days. Do not suffer +much, and am surprised I do not suffer more. Asked<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-47" id="V1-47"></a>[<a href="images/1-47.png">47</a>]</span> +Mohammed for the quarter of sheep purchased at Yefran, +and taxed him with stealing it: told him I would +give him no backsheesh on arriving at Ghadames. He +had stolen the meat to make a feast for his friends on his +arrival, and afterwards brought me a piece of my own +meat cooked as his own, but which I refused. This is a +fine illustration of being generous at another person's +expense. In the evening went to see Rujban. There are +seven villages forming the district of Rujban. These consist +of so many mud and stone buildings, but some of the +houses are excavations out of the solid rock, the principal +object being protection from the fiery summer heat, and +the intense winter cold. Many of the houses have a +yard before them, which is walled round, and three or +four are mostly clustered together. Sometimes excavations +are made in a pit or hollow found on high ground, +and then a subterraneous passage leading to them is +excavated from the mountain sides: these are reckoned +very secure. From the heights where I write, there is a +boundless view of the plain and undulating ground which +lie between the Mediterranean and this Atlas chain. +The Arabs call it their sea, and it certainly looks like a +sea from these heights. A marabout sanctuary and +garden at the base of the mountains, is called their port. +There is frequently a freshness rising from the subjected +plain like that of the sea. The camels, they say, are +their ships. There are besides some pretty views in and +over the Atlas valleys, where you overlook the small +scattered oasisian spots of cultivation, with here and +there a palm and little groups of inclosed fig-trees. Then +again, there are heights crowned with olive-woods, as if +The Mountains had put on a black scull-cap. Some of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-48" id="V1-48"></a>[<a href="images/1-48.png">48</a>]</span> +the precipices are so profound, as to deserve the epithet +of "horrid." In different parts of these heights are +flights of natural steps, by which they are ascended, and +which seem to have received some finish from Arabian +ingenuity.</p> + +<p>In spite of the freshness and coolness of mountain air, +it has been very hot these last two days. On the plains, +the people say the heat is now overpowering.</p> + +<p>There is scarcely any natural produce about. A few +sheep and goats, a camel or two, and a few asses, are all +the animals I have seen. The fig-trees produce something, +but I have seen no prickly-pears, which support +many poor families on The Coast, during several months +every year. The olive plantations are the principal +resource of these poor mountaineers, which are also a +sensible relief for the eye on these bare heights. In the +houses there is hardly anything to be got. No pepper, +no onions, no meat killed or sold. No bread can be +obtained for love or money. I laid in a stock of fresh +bread in Tripoli for a fortnight, but my gluttonous +camel driver devoured all in three or four days! There +were no less than fifty twopenny loaves. He was accustomed +to eat in the night, when I was asleep, and used +to threaten to beat Said if he blabbed. I mentioned +the circumstance after, to the Rais of Ghadames, who +observed: "If you had brought a thousand loaves, all +would have been devoured."</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding this abject poverty, a bullying tax-gatherer, +with half a dozen louting soldiers, have been +up here prowling about, and wresting with violence the +means of supporting life from these miserable beings. +The scenes which I witness are heart-rending, beyond all<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-49" id="V1-49"></a>[<a href="images/1-49.png">49</a>]</span> +I have heard of Irish misery and rent-distraining bullies. +One man had his camel seized, the only support of his family; +another his bullock; another a few bushels of barley: the +houses were entered, searched, and ransacked; people were +dragged by the throat through the villages, and beaten with +sticks; and all because the poor wretches had no money to +meet the demands of these voracious bailiffs. Poverty is, +indeed, here a crime. One poor old woman had a few bad +unripe figs seized, and came to me, and a group of wretched +villagers, crying out bitterly. One or two men, who +were imagined to have something, though they had nothing, +were held by the throat until they were nearly +suffocated. I cursed over and over again in my heart +the Turks. I was not prepared for such scenes of +cruelty in these remote mountains. We shall find, that +amongst the so-called barbarians of The Desert there was +nothing equal in atrocity to this. What wonder that the +Arab prefers, if he can, to pasture his flocks on savage +and remote wastes to being subjected to these regular +Governments—of extortion! And yet we, in our ignorance +of what is here going on, are surprised at their +preference. If the people are not ready with their +money, the little barley, their winter's store, is seized, and +they must pay afterwards their usual quotas of money. +Several bags of barley are illegally gotten in this way. +The amount of tax or tribute for the whole district of +Rujban is five or six hundred mahboubs, which is paid in +three instalments, three times a year; but, which though +nothing in amount, is more than all the people are worth +together, for riches and poverty are relative possessions, +if the latter can be possessed. If they can't pay in +money they pay in kind. The Sheikh of the district,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-50" id="V1-50"></a>[<a href="images/1-50.png">50</a>]</span> +with the elders, determine how much each man and +family shall pay. This, of course, gives rise to ten thousand +disputes, heart-burnings, and eternal wranglings +amongst themselves. The Arabs, on these occasions, +however silent and sulky they may be on others, show +that they have the gift of speech, as well as Frenchmen +and Italians. Then, indeed, God's thunder can't be +heard. Marabouts do not pay these taxes. This is a +privilege of religion, which successfully exerts itself +against the oppressive arm of the civil power. Such +privilege has been enjoyed in all ages and countries. +My camel-driver is a Marabout, and is consequently +exempt. I rallied him upon his privilege, and he replied: +"The villains are afraid to come here; see my +flag-staff and green flag, they dare not come over my +threshold—God would strike them down!" It is impossible +to tell how much of the five hundred mahboubs gets +into the treasury of Government, but, I am told, a good +portion gets into the pockets of the officials. The whole +administration of The Mountains, and the Saharan oases +of Tripoli, is conducted on the same principles of finance +and extortion.</p> + +<p>I am lodged in the house of my camel-driver. The +women show the greatest curiosity to see me, and declare +that I am more beautiful (<i>bahea</i>) than they. They wonderingly +admire everything I have. The greater part of +these women never left their mountain-homes—never saw +a Christian or European before—and this is the reason +of their surprise at my appearance. The children, of +course, are equally astonished, but are too frightened to +reflect steadily on an European. Both the women and +men say it is <i>maktoub</i>, ("predestination") which has<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-51" id="V1-51"></a>[<a href="images/1-51.png">51</a>]</span> +brought me amongst them, and they are right. These +poor people are very civil to me. In my quality of +tabeeb they consult me. The prevailing disease is sore +eyes. Two children were brought to me, a girl with a +dropsy of a year's standing, and a boy with only one +testiculum, for neither of which did I prescribe. The +employment of the men is camel-driving between Tripoli +and Ghadames. Agriculture, there is scarcely any. The +women weave barracans or holees for their husbands, +themselves, and children, and for sale. They are mostly +dirty, and ill-clothed. The men have but a single barracan +to cover them, one or two may have a shirt; the +children are nearly naked; and the women wear a woollen +frock, charms round their necks, armlets, and anclets, +sometimes throwing a slight barracan or sefsar round their +heads and shoulders. I observed, however, that often +women wear great leather boots, made of red leather or +camel's skin. None of them were pretty, but some were +fine-looking, with aquiline noses, and rolling about their +large, black, gazelle-like eyes.</p> + +<p><i>10th.</i>—Spent the day in writing notes. Expect to +remain three more days. I am, however, comfortably +sheltered from the heat, which has been to-day excessive. +Mohammed, my camel-driver, is useful to me as a writer +of Arabic, giving me the names of places in Arabic. +But he knows nothing of Arabic grammar, and writes +very poorly, like most of these Marabouts, although he +passes for being a very learned man. He purchased +some old dirty leaves of an Arabic book, and exhibited +them to the people as sacred works. The Sheikhs of +Rujban and all the great people of the villages came to +stare at them. They were shocked at my presumption<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-52" id="V1-52"></a>[<a href="images/1-52.png">52</a>]</span> +in wishing to handle these sacred leaves, which were a +portion of a commentary on the Koran. My Marabout +is the Katab, or writer of the village, there being only +another who can write here besides himself, and who +writes very badly. Mohammed, though a saint and a +writer, is an enormous hog, and dishonest, when he can +be so with safety. He has begun badly, but may turn +out better. Said is not of much use yet; he is very +stupid, but not malicious. I must make the best of +both, and of every body and everything in my present +circumstances, conciliating always wherever I can, and +passing by all offences. If I can't do this, I may go +back. I cannot finish these trifling memoranda to-day, +without expressing my thankfulness to a good Providence, +that I enjoy good health and spirits up to this +time, and there is every appearance of my arriving safely +in Ghadames. "All is from God!" (<i>Men ând Allah +El-koul</i>, as the people say.)</p> + +<p><i>11th.</i>—Yesterday evening conversed with the Arab +villagers, and asked them if the soldiers of the Government +were gone, <i>i. e.</i>, the collectors of the tribute. +They replied, "Yes, thank God, and may they never +return! The curse of God upon them!" They then +asked me, if the people were treated so by our Government. +I observed to them, "Not always. But that +sometimes the British Government sorely oppressed the +people, as all the Governments of Europe; and I was +often tempted to think that there were only two classes +of people in the world, the oppressing and the oppressed, +(<i>i. e.</i>, the eaters and the eaten)." To which latter remark +they all answered with a loud "Amen," and swore +it was the truth. They then asked me, "If the English<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-53" id="V1-53"></a>[<a href="images/1-53.png">53</a>]</span> +were coming to Tripoli?" I told them, "No," for the +English had now more countries than they knew what to +do with. Surprised at this remark, they continued, +"What are the French vessels doing at Tripoli?" +(There were then a French steamer and a brig at this +time.) I told them to keep away the Turks from +attacking Tunis. They were anxious to know if the +French would come to Tripoli. I answered, I thought +not, as they had enough of Algeria. "We hope (<i>en +shallah</i>,)" said they, "the English are our friends." I +replied they were, but, being friends of the Sultan of +Constantinople, they would not take possession of Tripoli. +The fact was, these poor people were just smarting +under the oppressive acts of the Turkish tax-gatherers, +and they would then have sold their country +to the first comer for an old song, were the buyer Christian, +Jew, or Pagan. But I have always found the +Arabs fond of talking of politics; it seems instinctive in +their character; and it is astonishing how much policy +is always going on amongst their tribes, and how intricate +are the various negotiations of the Sheikhs. I +asked them "If they had any arms?" To which they +replied, "No, none whatever; the Turks have taken +them all away." And so these once formidable mountaineers +have not only lost all spirit and courage, but +have not even arms to defend themselves against the +most petty annoyances. Robberies of the small kind +are frequent about the neighbourhood, and the people +are often obliged to gather their figs before they are +ripe, lest they should be stolen. At other times they +display great impatience of the seasons, and gather the +fruit before ripe. Those who steal provisions are poor<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-54" id="V1-54"></a>[<a href="images/1-54.png">54</a>]</span> +famished devils, having nothing to eat. There is no +poor-law here. It is simply a question of theft or +starvation to death. This is the alternative of Arab +life in many parts of these mountains.</p> + +<p>This morning received a visit from the Sheikh of +Rujban, Bel Kasem by name<a name="FNa_1-15" id="FNa_1-15"></a><a href="#FoN_1-15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a>, and his head-servant, or +factotum. I made them the best coffee I could, putting +into it plenty of sugar. The Arabs are curious people; +they like things either very bitter or very sweet. Their +eyes sparkled with satisfaction; they had never tasted +coffee before like it, and were rejoiced—"Tripoli always +belongs to the English!" Speaking of the Marabouts, +and alluding to my Mohammed, the Sheikh said, +"These fellows pray God and rob men." "Mohammed," +he added, "is a rogue, he pays nothing, and I am +obliged to eat up all the people to make up the amount +for the Bashaw." It is curious to observe everywhere +this eternal contest between the civil and spiritual power. +To pacify him, I told him Christian priests were many +of them as bad as Marabouts (and which is quite within +the mark). The Sheikh and his men had very white +teeth. I observe nearly all the Arab men and women, +as well as the negroes, to have extremely white teeth. +This has never been medically accounted for; I believe +it arises from the simplicity of the food they eat. +Some Tunisian Arabs have reported that large bodies +of troops are being concentrated at the Isle of Jerbah, +in expectation of the Turks. The trading Arabs are +the gazettes of North Africa.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-55" id="V1-55"></a>[<a href="images/1-55.png">55</a>]</span></p> +<p>Said's feet are very sore, arising from Mohammed +refusing to allow him to ride. I was obliged to tell him, +at last, that, unless he permitted him to ride, Said +should not help him to load the camels. This had some +effect, and he allowed Said to ride an hour or two before +reaching here. This Marabout is, indeed, a cruel, +selfish fellow. He also pretends to be very jealous, and +will not allow any person, much less a Christian, to see +his wife. He won't allow me to present her a cup of +coffee. But I found out the reason; the rascal wished to +carry it himself, and drink half of it on the way. Afterwards +his wife told me herself the reason. An indiscreet +conjugal disclosure this: but such is the character of +the man.</p> + +<p>An old blind man is calling on me. He tells me his +country is my country, and his people my brothers and +sisters. He prays God to bless me and preserve me. +How soft and gentle—how full of good-will and patience—are +the manners of the blind in all countries! Full +fed flesh and the prosperous are proud and cruel, those +stricken with infirmity and misery show the milk of +human kindness. This poor old gentleman prays all the +day long. Prayer is his daily bread. The Arabs ask +me if Said is my slave. I tell them the English have no +slaves, and that it is against their religion, but that some +other Christian nations have slaves. They are greatly +astonished that slavery is not permitted amongst us. +The women of the village continue to visit me as an +object of curiosity. They never saw a Christian before. +They are always declaring me "bahea," handsome, of +which compliment I am, indeed, very sensible.</p> + +<p>This evening, however, the women of our two or three<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-56" id="V1-56"></a>[<a href="images/1-56.png">56</a>]</span> +huts, and their neighbours, played me an indecent trick, +with, of course, a mercenary object. Although the Barbary +dance is rare amongst the Arab women, they can +have recourse to it at times to suit their objects. The +men were gone to bring the camels, and the women sent +Said after them on some frivolous message. Four of the +women now came into my apartment, and taking hold +of hands, formed a circle round me. They then began +dancing, or rather making certain indecent motions of +the body, known to travellers in North Africa. At once +nearly smothered and overpowered, I could scarcely get +out of the circle, and pushed them back with great +difficulty. At this they were astonished, and wondered +all men, Christians and Mussulmans, did not like such +delicate condescension on their part. "Don't you like it, +infidel?" they cried, and retreated from my room. I now +saw their object. They began begging for money vehemently, +saying, "Pay, pay, every body pays for this." +Nothing they got from me; and the wife of the Marabout +came afterwards, imploring me to say nothing to her +husband. It is thus these rude women will act for +money, as many who are better taught, in the streets of +London. But acts of indelicacy are nevertheless very +rare amongst the mountain tribes. I have seen Arab +women at other occasions, on a cold day, standing +athwart a smoking fire, with all the smoke ascending +under their clothes. This may be expected, and is characteristic +of the filthy habits of these wretched mountaineers. +But cases of adultery are unknown amongst +these simple people.</p> + +<p><i>12th.</i>—A beautiful Arab girl, a perfect mountain +gazelle, came with her mother to consult me about her<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-57" id="V1-57"></a>[<a href="images/1-57.png">57</a>]</span> +eyes, being near-sighted. Recommended her to apply +to Dr. Dickson, if she ever went to Tripoli; and wrote +her a note to him. Many other people came for medicines. +Went to see an old man whose eyes were bad +with ophthalmia. I gave him some solution to wash his +eyes, and he gave me in turn a jar of new milk. Something +was said about olive-oil, and I asked where we could get +some. They said there was none in Rujban. The lady +of my host thinking me incredulous, pulled her gray +grisly hair, and exhibited its crispness and dryness, +observing, "See, where's the oil?" Of course such an +argument was conclusive that they had no oil in the +house.</p> + +<p>The villagers, in this season, do absolutely nothing, +unless it be sleep all day long. The fact is, it is awfully +hot, from early morn to evening late, and they have little +to do. All that they have to do, many of them do with +apparent dispatch. At the dawn of day the wind is so +strong, one cannot enjoy an hour of the morning's freshness; +and, in the evening, the sultry ghiblee is equally +disagreeable. I scarcely go out of my room the whole +day. Begin to recover my Arabic. Many times I have +begun and re-begun this difficult language. But there is +no remedy. I must work, and work brings some +pleasure, at least destroys ennui and kills time. However +little time we have, we wish it less.</p> + +<p>The Arabs ask me, "Why the Christian priests have +no wives?" The Mohammedans and Catholics go to +extremes in their ideas of separating or connecting +women with religion and sanctity. The Mohammedans +think a saint or marabout cannot have too many women<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-58" id="V1-58"></a>[<a href="images/1-58.png">58</a>]</span> +or wives, which, they say, assist their devotion—a sentiment +which they pretend to have received from Mahomet +himself by tradition. The fact is, the prophet was very +fond of women. The Catholics would seem to think a +priest better with absolutely no wife. This is a mere +struggle between sensuality and asceticism. There is no +love or affection in it. I showed Mohammed an empty +bottle. He took a piece of paper and wrote: "The +bottle is empty of wine, God fill it again." Such is Arab +marabout literature.</p> + +<p><i>13th.</i>—Elhamdullah! The wind has changed, the +furnace breath of the ghiblee is gone out! We have +now a pleasant breeze from N.W., the bahree, as the +Arabs call it. We can now go out any time; before we +were prisoners the live-long day. Mohammed, who pretends +to all sciences, says: "There are three modes of +cure—"1st, Blood-letting; "2nd, Fire and burning; +"3rd, The word of God."</p> + +<p>He made this observation in applying verses of the +Koran to the eyes of his wife's sister, which he said +were more efficacious than all my physic. Some of these +bits of paper, with the name of God written on them, +were steeped in water and swallowed by the patient. +This superstition of swallowing bits of paper, with the +name of God and verses of the Koran written on them, +as well as the water in which the paper is steeped, is +prevalent as an infallible remedy in all Mahometan +Africa. Marabouts are all powerful in The Mountains; +and a woman, pointing to her child, said to me:—"That +boy is the child of a Marabout. I never allow +another man to sleep with me." Nevertheless, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-59" id="V1-59"></a>[<a href="images/1-59.png">59</a>]</span> +women still display intense curiosity in seeing "The +Christian," and will declare, "By G—d, you are beautiful, +more handsome than our men." They admire the +most trifling thing I have, and add, "God alone brought +you amongst us." Their language, though indelicate to +us, is not so to them. It is the undisguised speech of a +rude people.</p> + +<p>Went this morning to see El-Beer, or "the well," +the real fountain of life in these countries. Was +much pleased with the visit; and found it at the +bottom of a deep ravine, bubbling out from beneath +the shade of palms and olives, amidst wild scenery of +rugged steeps and hanging rocks. There are indeed, +four springs, but all apparently from the same +source. They are not deep, and have near them troughs +for watering sheep, goats, cattle, and camels. These +wells furnish water for two mountain districts. The +water is of the purest quality, clear as crystal, aye, clear +as—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">"Siloa's brook that flow'd</span> +<span class="i0">Fast by the oracle of God."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>The road to them is very difficult, over rattling, rumbling +stones, and rocks, and precipices, and it is hard +work for the poor women who fetch the water, for the +wells are distant nearly three miles from our village.</p> + +<p>The Sheikh came to my Mohammed, asking him to +write to Tripoli, to collect the money due to the Bashaw +from certain people of this country, who are now working +in that city. They look sharp after these poor +wretches. Amuse myself with washing my handkerchiefs +and towels, and mending my clothes. I also +always cook and do as much for myself as I possibly can.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-60" id="V1-60"></a>[<a href="images/1-60.png">60</a>]</span> +Besides doing things as I like, it amuses me. Bought +another skin-bag for water, and shall now distribute the +three amongst us, and each shall drink his own water +during the four days of our route, where no water is to +be found. This will prevent wrangling on the way, and +make each person more careful of this grand element of +life in The Desert. Mohammed put a little oil in the +skin before filling it, to prevent it from cracking. This +gives the water an oily taste for weeks afterwards, but +we get used to it, and are glad of water with any +taste.</p> + +<p>His Excellency the Sheikh got very facetious to-day. +He offered to sell me his authority, his Sheikhdom, and +retire from affairs. I bid one thousand dollars for the +concern. "No, no," said he, "I'll take ten thousand +dollars, nothing less." Then, getting very familiar, he +added, "Now, you and I are equal, you're Consul and +I'm Sheikh—you're the son of your Sultan, and I'm a +commander under the Sultan of Stamboul." The report +of my being a Consul of a remote oasis of The Sahara +was just as good to me on the present occasion as if I +had Her Majesty's commission for the Consular Affairs of +all North Africa. Who will say, then, there is nothing +in a name? A tourist in Africa should always take +advantage of these little rumours, provided they are +innocent. But the traveller more frequently has to encounter +rumours to his disadvantage. Many visitors, +men, women, and children—some brought milk, others +figs and soap. Soap is considered a luxury in all the +interior cities, and people will beg soap though never +use it, but keep it as a sort of treasure. Fig and olive +trees abound in the mountains, but for want of rain<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-61" id="V1-61"></a>[<a href="images/1-61.png">61</a>]</span> +have produced nothing this year. So of most other +vegetables products. Goats only are in abundance, of +animals. The ordinary food of the people is bazeen, a +sort of boiled flour pudding, with a little high-seasoned +herbal sauce, and sometimes a little oil or mutton fat +poured on. It is generally made of barley-meal, but +sometimes flour. This is the supper and principal meal +of the day. As a breakfast, a little milk is drank, or a +few dates with a bit of bread is eaten. The rule of +these mountaineers is, indeed, not to eat meat, though +some of them have flocks of sheep.</p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—His Excellency the Sheikh roused me from my +bed this morning. He said he could not sleep, and +therefore I ought not to sleep. According to his Excellency, +Rujban contains 500 souls, all in misery and +starvation. "The country is <i>batel</i> (good for nothing)," +he says. It is certain the greater part of the people +have not enough to eat, or half the quantity of what +is considered ordinarily sufficient. In the neighbouring +districts, S.W., there are 1,500 souls. Ahmed Bashaw +destroyed the greater part of the inhabitants of these +mountains, and disarmed the rest, leaving not a single +matchlock amongst them. Such are the Turkish ideas +of mountain rule—absolute submission or extermination!</p> + +<p>This morning is cool and temperate. Every day continue +to administer solution for ophthalmia, and even +those whose eyes are quite well, will have a drop of it +put on their eyes. They say it will prevent them, after +I am gone, from having the malady. Everybody begs a +bit of sugar, a little bread, a scrap of paper, a something +from the Christian. Content all as well as I can.</p> + +<p>This evening saw, for the first time "the playing with<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-62" id="V1-62"></a>[<a href="images/1-62.png">62</a>]</span> +the head," which is performed by females. This was +done by a young girl. After baring her head and unbinding +her hair, throwing her long dark tresses in +dishevelled confusion, she knelt down and began moving +her chest and head in various attitudes, her whole soul +being apparently in the motion. Part of her hair she +held fast in her teeth, as if modestly to cover her face, +the rest flew wildly about with the agitation of her head +and chest, and all to the tune or time of two pieces of +stick, one beating on the other, by the woman upon whose +knees she leaned with her hands. The motion was +really graceful, though wild and dervish-like, but there +was nothing lascivious in it, like the dancing of the +Moors, nor could it well be, the upper part of the body +only was in agitation, being literally "the playing with +the head." I never saw this before or again in North +Africa. I gave the young lady twenty paras, the first +time she had so large a sum in her life. Received a +present of leghma from the Sheikh, very acrid and +intoxicating. The women admire much my straw hat, +made of fine Leghorn plat, and wonder how it is done. +None of the inhabitants but our Marabout read and +write. Portions of the Koran, however, are committed +to memory; and one day an old blind man repeated +several chapters of the Koran for my especial edification. +He did it as a protest of zeal against my infidelity before +the people, but I took care not to show that I was +aware of the object. The men pray now and then, the +women never, that I could see, and never think of religion +beyond ascribing all things, good and bad, to God. +Indeed, all classes in these mountains think the sum of +religion consists simply in ascribing all matters, how great<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-63" id="V1-63"></a>[<a href="images/1-63.png">63</a>]</span> +or how small, how evil how good soever, to the Divine +Being. When they have done this, they think they have +performed an act of piety and mercy. At my request, +Mohammed made Said a pair of camel-driver's shoes, or +sandals, to save his best. The plan is primitive enough. +They get a piece of dried camel's hide, and cut it into +the shape of the sole of the foot. Then they cut two +thongs from the same hide. Holes are now bored +through the soles, a knot is made at the end of the +thongs, and they are pulled through the holes. The +whole is then rubbed over with oil; the hairy side of +the hide is fitted next to the foot, and the thongs are +bound round the ancles. These sandals serve admirably +well their purpose; some are made of double soles. +But for the especial benefit of our cordwainers, I may +mention, the African shoe has no heel to the sole.</p> + +<p><i>15th.</i>—His Excellency the Sheikh, and his factotum, +or shadow, took coffee again with me this morning. A +cup of coffee is a rare treat in Rujban. The Shadow of +his Excellency brought me a few bad Fezzan dates, from +which oases The Mountains are mostly supplied. Dates +are not cultivated in The Mountains. The palm requires +a low and flat sandy soil. The climate is not of so much +consequence as the soil. Jerbah, and the Karkenahs, +islands in the Mediterranean, produce as fine dates as the +most favoured oasis of The Sahara. The Sheikh tells me +there are thirty negro slaves in his district. One would +wonder how the people could keep slaves when they can +scarcely keep themselves. His Excellency is very sulky. +He threatens to resign his Sheikhdom. The poor Sheikh +is the dirtiest, unhappiest mortal of all his people. He +is without wife, family or friend; he is without a rag<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-64" id="V1-64"></a>[<a href="images/1-64.png">64</a>]</span> +to cover himself, except a filthy blanket. He houses +in a little dirty cabin. In looks he is a hard strong-featured +man, and large of limb. I asked his Excellency +what he got by his Sheikhdom, to plague him. +He growled, "<i>Shayen</i> (nothing)." "Why don't you resign?" +I continued. "I can't; all my ancestors, from +the time of Sidi Ibraim, and our lord Mahomet, were +Sheikhs. We're one blood. I shall dishonour them:" he +returned. The principle of aristocracy is irradicably +bound up in the Arabian social economy. The levelling +and co-operative system has no place here. The Sheikh's +factotum is a noisy, roguish-looking Arab, with several +bullet-marks about him received in the late wars. As he +does all his master's dirty work, he is universally detested. +Master and man swear the country is ruined. +There certainly is nothing in these villages to render life +tolerable. No rustic plays; no moon-lit dance to the +sound of the rude calabash drum and squeaking pipe; no +cheerful family circle—all is poverty and loneliness! +Such a life is really not worth living. To make wretchedness +still more wretched, for three years there has +been no rain in these mountains. God's power and +man's cruelty press sorely upon these miserable people.</p> + +<p>The curiosity of the villagers begins to abate, or my +Mohammed refuses them admission into his house to see +me. He pretends to be honest in his opinion of his +countrymen. He says: "The Arabs are all dogs +(<i>kelab</i>)." They certainly have most begging propensities. +And Mohammed adds, that when they have sufficient +they will still beg, being born beggars. But, alas! these +poor people, I am sure, never know now what it is to +have enough. Yesterday some audacious thief stole the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-65" id="V1-65"></a>[<a href="images/1-65.png">65</a>]</span> +Sheikh's leghma. His factotum is foaming with rage, +but the Sheikh laughed heartily at the impudence of the +thief. His Excellency is accustomed to send me some +every morning. I shall here relate a case or trait of +selfishness amongst Arab women. I gave to the wife of +the Marabout half a bottle of solution for washing her +eyes should she be attacked with ophthalmia. Her +sister-in-law, living next door, was laid up in a dark +room with a dreadful ophthalmia. She sent her husband +to beg a little of the solution. The Marabout's wife +first denied that she had any, and then that she could +find it. When I came from my walk, I scolded her +soundly and gave the poor sufferer some solution.</p> + +<p>The Marabout seeing my little stock of oil, burst forth +with a violent panegyric on olive oil, as he dipped his +fingers into it and licked them, not much to my satisfaction:—"Oil +is my life! Without oil I droop, and am +out of life; with oil, I raise my head and am a man, +and my family (wife) feels I am a man. Oil is my rum—oil +is better than meat." So continued Mohammed, +tossing up his head and smacking his lips. I have no +doubt there is great strength in olive oil. An Arab will +live three months on barley-meal paste dipped in olive +oil. Arabs will drink oil as we drink wine.</p> + +<p><i>16th.</i>—This morning we leave for Ghadames. What +is remarkable, nearly all the Mountaineers offered me +their services, and were willing to leave their native +homes, and go with me any where or everywhere. I +hardly observed a spark of fanaticism in them, so far as +accompanying me was concerned. They were all actuated +with the common and universal feeling, to obtain +something to live withal in this poor world.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-66" id="V1-66"></a>[<a href="images/1-66.png">66</a>]</span></p> + +<p>I have endeavoured to give some minutiæ of Arab +mountain life. It will be seen to be not very stirring or +agreeable, and there is certainly no romance in it, but, +such as it is, I offer it to the reader, and he must make +the best of the information. Life is life under any and +all forms.</p> + +<p>From Tripoli to The Mountains our route was southwest, +so that we were not so far from the coast as at first +might be imagined, from the number of days' journey, +and we were still within the influence of some cool sea +breezes, for any point almost between west and northeast, +brought reviving life to The Mountains, in this +terrible season of heat.</p> + +<p>My journey seemed now to begin again, I felt a sickening +regret, even in leaving my new Arab acquaintances. +But the oppression which ground down to the dust these +poor people filled my mind with the horror of despotic +government. I was glad to get away from its victims, +and from under the sphere of its influence, and plunge +into the wild wastes of The Sahara, where I could breathe +more freely. I must relate one other anecdote illustrating +this oppression. A poor man sold me a peck of +barley. The myrmidons of power, hearing of the sale, +immediately went to him, and he refusing to give them +the money, they got hold of his throat and nearly strangled +him. To make them desist, I paid them also the +value of the barley. Several of the poor people ran out +after me when I mounted the camel, and amongst them +many women and children, all crying out "<i>Bes-slamah, +bes-slamah</i>," (Good-bye, good-bye). We now entered +upon the most difficult, and the most critical part of our +route in this season, and I commended myself and the +people again to Eternal Providence.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-67" id="V1-67"></a>[<a href="images/1-67.png">67</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>20th.</i>—Seenawan. I find it impossible to write daily +in this part of the route.</p> + +<p>I have seen lately in the newspapers and geographical +journals, that a Frenchman is going to traverse Africa +from west to east, and that he is to make hourly observations +with scientific instruments. I think the parties who +write such paragraphs must be either madmen, or grossly +and unpardonably ignorant of the nature of African +travelling. If a traveller is in his sober senses, half the +time he is <i>en route</i>, he is a happy man. But to proceed.</p> + +<p>Our first object was to find the rendezvous of the ghafalah. +I said to Mohammed: "Are you sure the ghafalah +is on the march to-day?" "The ghafalah is like the +sun," he replied, "every body knows it will move to-day." +About four hours after looking over the undulating +ground, I thought I saw at about six miles distant +some black spots moving, and turning to Mohammed, I +said, "What's that?" He exclaimed, "The camels! the +camels! I told you I was right, and don't you see I +have struck into the right path?" I was glad to hear +this, for I was not yet sufficiently broken in to desert +travelling to be wandering about as we were in search of +moving parties of the ghafalah. An hour after I took off +the shade from my eyes, for I had still a slight ophthalmia, +and looking round, I found we were in the midst of +detached parties of the ghafalah, widely apart, but all hurrying +in one direction. We were not near enough (indeed +some miles off) to have any conversation with them. +By noon we had all rendezvoused upon a pleasant plateau +of The Mountains. The merchants welcomed my +return, and asked me what I had been doing. I said,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-68" id="V1-68"></a>[<a href="images/1-68.png">68</a>]</span> +"We have delayed too long." They smiled:—"Oh, you +don't understand; you see we have one day for buying +oil, another day for barley, another for skins, another for +doing nothing," &c. It appeared to me a bungling way +of doing business. But some of them had been obliged +to go a day's journey to purchase a few things. The +ghafalah had, in fact, been scattered all over The Mountains. +A few never left Yefran. This was my first +taste of delay in Saharan travel.</p> + +<p>We began our four days' journey in the evening, and +continued all night up to two hours before sunrise. The +camels then rested but were not unpacked. All the +people now got a few winks of sleep. At dawn we +started again, and halted for the day after two hours and +a half of marching. In the afternoon, about half-past +four, we then resumed our march, and in this manner +we continued for the four days. Our pace was upon an +average three miles per hour, sometimes two and a half, +and sometimes three and a half. On looking at the +camel you think it goes slow, but when you look at the +driver, you observe that he is often kept up to a very +good walking pace. Our camels were five days without +drinking, for they drank the morning before we left.</p> + +<p>I was once going to write, "the Arabs pack their +camels as badly as possible; make their journeys as long +as possible; travel as much in the sun as possible<a name="FNa_1-16" id="FNa_1-16"></a><a href="#FoN_1-16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a>;" but +these last four days have convinced me that, under the +guidance of a good Arab chief, they know what they are +about, and can do things with order and dispatch.</p> + +<p>I don't know how it was, but it came into my head +that, on leaving The Mountains, and proceeding south,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-69" id="V1-69"></a>[<a href="images/1-69.png">69</a>]</span> +we should soon descend again, as if we were to cross +some mighty ridge or series of ridges of the Atlas. +Every moment I expected to descend into valleys or +plains, corresponding to the country which lies between +Tripoli and The Mountains. Getting impatient, after +nearly a day's march, I asked for the plains. The +people turned upon me with surprise, and said:—"<i>Lel +Ghadames, koul hathe souwa, souwa</i>, All like this to Gadmes." +I found, indeed, that, after getting fairly into +The Mountains, and proceeding south, you first entered +upon a deep undulating country, with here and there a +profound ravine, then a pretty verdant inclosed plateau, +and then a bare towering height, all which <i>accidented</i> +country dissolved at last into an immeasurable plain. +Proceeding south, however, we found a new species of +mountains began to raise their long, lone, dull, dreary +naked forms; and, asking Mohammed what they were, +he replied correctly enough:—"These are <i>Gibel Sahara</i>, +(Saharan Mountains)." The plateaus and undulating +ground were in places covered with loose stones, with +sand and sand-hills scattered or heaped about. Then +these stones and sand were partly covered at this season +with sun-dried and sun-burnt herbage, mostly very +coarse, with here and there a few bushes and shrubs. +Many also were the dried beds of rivers, and there were +still wider and profounder depressions of land than these +waterless wadys. But all is now burnt, scorched, dried +up, and the nakedness of the Saharan ridges is responded +to with a hideous barrenness from the intervening plains +and valleys. Not a single living creature was visible or +moving; not a wild or tame animal, not a bird nor an +insect, if we except a tiny lizard, which seems to live as<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-70" id="V1-70"></a>[<a href="images/1-70.png">70</a>]</span> +a salamander in heat and flames, now and then crossing +our path at the camel's foot, and a few flies, which follow +the ghafalah, but have no home or habitation in The +Dried-up Waste. Nor was there a sound, nor a voice, +or a cry, or the faintest murmur in The Desert, save the +heavy dull tramp of our caravan: all else was the silence +of death! However, my Marabout tells me, in the winter +the whole scene is changed. "There is then," he +says, "herbage, rain, birds, gazelles, and all things." It +is certain that within nine hours' ride from Rujban we +passed the stubble of two or three patches of barley, +which had been rescued from the dominion of The +Desert.</p> + +<p>As to myself, personally, in this part of the route, I +have suffered most from want of sleep. In the day-time +it was too hot to sleep, and in the night I was on +the back of the camel, where, of course, for the present, +I could not be expected to sleep, though many of the +Arabs, nay, merchants slept. I should say all slept on +the camel as soundly as in a bed. So that what I saved +of suffering from the heat of day-travelling, I lost in want +of sleep by night-travelling. Poor human brute! I thought +of the fable of the ass and his winter and summer advantages +and disadvantages. The hottest day was yesterday, +last of the four, when we encamped in a dry bed of a +river. I shall never forget that day, forget what I may +else! I was first on the point of being suffocated, and +seemed at my last gasp. I began to think that the predictions +of my <i>friends</i> in Tripoli were about to be +verified. I was to succumb to make them prophets! In +addition to this my deep distress, I felt the wound of +pride. I got some tea made, I can't tell how, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-71" id="V1-71"></a>[<a href="images/1-71.png">71</a>]</span> +poured some brandy into it. This I drank, and from a +fever of delirium found myself conscious again, and +swimming in a bath of perspiration. The crisis was +now passed, and I was to see Ghadames and Ghat, and +return to my fatherland. So fate—rather Providence—would +have it. Every day, until I reached Ghadames, +there was a sort of point of halting between life and +suffocation or death in my poor frame, when the European +nature struggled boldly and successfully with the +African sun, and all his accumulated force darting down +fires and flames upon my devoted head. After this +point or crisis was past, I always found myself much +better. It is strange that my head never ached, nor was +in any way affected during the whole route, except in +the one day mentioned. Some and all have vainly invoked +sleep upon a bed, in the time of darkness and +cold, but those who call for the god in the African +Desert, in midday of the hottest season of the year—and +to the last moment of starting with a long, long +night of travel before them—as they lay rolling on the +burning sand, and he disdains to shed his dull influence +over the eyelid, know, indeed, something of this kind of +human suffering, and how dreadfully long and dreary +were those nights! What signified the sight of the +ten thousand orbs moving in silent mystic dance, and +dressed out in soft bright fires, over the poor traveller's +head! Alas! it was a mockery of his woes. . . . Four +days and four nights were thus passed, without +four hours of sleep. I often wonder if I could go +through this again. I had an additional suffering of +the eyes. I never took the veil from my face from +sunrise to sunset, for had I done so, I should have had<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-72" id="V1-72"></a>[<a href="images/1-72.png">72</a>]</span> +the hot sand immediately into them. We had ghiblee or +simoon every day. But, thanks to Heaven, now ends +the greatest of my sufferings from heat.</p> + +<p>We were escorted by sixty Arab troops on foot, like +those who escorted us from Tripoli to The Mountains. +The Pasha mostly chooses them from districts through +which we pass, and in this way secures a guard well +acquainted with the route. But how odd, before the +Turks, in the good old days of The Bashaws, these very +Arabs were the banditti of the route. A Ghadames +merchant said to me one day, "Yâkob<a name="FNa_1-17" id="FNa_1-17"></a><a href="#FoN_1-17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a>, see these fellows; +formerly all were villanous <i>Sbandout</i> (banditti)." +The captain of this escort, Sheikh Omer, who will conduct +us to Ghadames, was charged by the Commandant +of The Mountains, that his men should not be allowed to +take water, or anything else by force, "bel kouwee," as +the merchants said. The Sheikh was a civil fellow, and +found it his interest to cultivate my acquaintance. Every +morning I invited him to take coffee and tea in my tent, +and he never forgot to come. In acknowledgment, he +sent me some liquid butter, which was not excessively +bad. The food of the Arabs, and the poorer sort of the +merchants, for this journey was, as written by my +Mohammed, ‮سُوِيقَ زُمِيته‬ ("Souweekah-Zameetah," that +is, two names); but commonly called Zameetah, which is +nothing more than barley or wheat burnt or malted, then +ground, and afterwards made into paste. On this is +sometimes poured a little oil or fat; but many cannot +afford this luxury, and must content themselves with a +little water to make up the meal into paste. I may<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-73" id="V1-73"></a>[<a href="images/1-73.png">73</a>]</span> +safely affirm, there was not a bit of meat eaten, or a +drop of tea or coffee drunk, in the whole caravan of +merchants, with 200 camels, including, with the Arabs, +some 150 persons, during the last four days, except +what was eaten and drunk in my tent. I myself had +only a little bit of fowl. The Sheikh <i>Shabanee</i> +(Makouran) as the Arabs call him, was the most civil +to me. His portion of the camels is about forty, and +he seems a most respectable old gentleman. He has +two sons with him. He gave me last night a guzzle of +cool water, a large brass pan full, of the size of a warming-pan, +which I drank off in an instant, and found it +more like nectar, than our earthy animalculæ water; +it was so deliciously cool and sweet. Valuable, indeed, +becomes a thing of commonest use, from its scarcity. +The old Sheikh has a donkey with him to carry his +drinking-water. The skins keep the water cool even in +the hottest part of the day, whilst some which I had in +bottles became quite hot. I shall here relate an ingenious +stratagem, which I recommend to all African travellers. +On leaving The Mountains we had three skins of +water, one for each. But first, one of the skins cracked, +and we lost a good deal of water, before it could be +mended. Then Mohammed, the chief thief, was accustomed +to drink large draughts when neither myself nor +Said was present. This we learnt from the rest of the +caravan. Said, himself, poor fellow, as soon as Mohammed +had turned his back, was either to beg me to +give him extra water, or help himself. Sometimes I +chided him, at others I gave him water, or was too +much exhausted to see what he was about. Then Said +would help his friends amongst the Arabs now and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-74" id="V1-74"></a>[<a href="images/1-74.png">74</a>]</span> +then, and sometimes the Arabs helped themselves, by +going behind me, and sucking from the neck of the skin +whilst I was riding. To avoid this, Mr. Gagliuffi told +me he always put the neck of the skin-bag before and +not behind, so that it was impossible for a person to +drink, and at the same time to walk backwards with +the camel going forwards, or at any rate to do so +without being seen. Then, finally, there was the +terrible action of the sun on the water, often reducing +it by a fifth, and sometimes a third, of our supply. But +the consequence of all this was, our three bags were +empty before we arrived at Seenawan, and the little +water which had remained, the third day, was so shaken +in the skins, all being oiled, that for me it was not drinkable. +Now for the stratagem. Apprehending this waste +of water, I got twelve pint bottles filled with water at +Tripoli, which were packed away as wine and spirits, +neither Mohammed or Said suspecting the contrary. +Accordingly I quietly despatched my couple of bottles +of <i>acqua pura</i> per day, as the London lady drinkers +are said to take their sly drops from the far corner of +the cupboard, without the least suspicion of my fellow +travellers. I overheard once, Mohammed speaking of +me to Said: "By G—d! these Christians, what lots of +rum they drink: that's the reason, Said, the sun does +not kill him—he'll never die. These Christians, Said, +are the same as the dæmons; they know everything, but +God will punish them at last—if not, there's no God, +or Prophet of God." I took no notice, but when we got +to Ghadames, I took the remaining bottle, and asked him +to drink. He jumped up with alarm. I then called +him a fool, and proved to him I had been drinking<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-75" id="V1-75"></a>[<a href="images/1-75.png">75</a>]</span> +water at the time he thought I had been drinking +rum. He laughed, and said, "Ajeeb, ente Yâkob âkel: +(Wonderful, you James are wise.)" I then took upon +myself to lecture Mohammed, abusing him for his carelessness +in not preserving the water, and asking him if +he thought that I, on the first time of traversing The +Desert, could put up with dirty water like them, and go +without for days, or with a very small quantity?</p> + +<p>The Sheikh Makouran continues very civil: to-day he +gave me a supply of onions for making soup, and promises +to give me a house to live in, when I get to Ghadames. +I have, in turn, to give him some medicine, on my +arrival, for one of his two wives. I rode a little the +Sheikh's donkey last night, at his request. It is +nothing like the camel, it stumbled a great deal over +the loose stones, and I am told the horses stumble as +much. I felt the immense superiority of the camel, +with its slow regular pace and sure foot, in these stony +wastes. The Sheikh's ass is the only animal of the +beast-of-burden sort in the whole caravan, besides the +camels. I noticed, however, a few extra unladen camels, +which take turn with others for carrying, as also several +foals following lightly and friskily their dams. <i>En +route</i>, during the nights, the Arab soldiers amused themselves +by firing off their matchlocks, the most advanced +party answering the farthest behind, and <i>vice versâ</i>. The +noise of the gun broke through the painful silence of +The Desert, and came finely back reverberating from the +Saharan hills with double and treble discharges of +sound. When their powder began to be exhausted, and +they have never more than half-a-dozen charges, they +sang their plaintive love ditties, or chatted to the mer<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-76" id="V1-76"></a>[<a href="images/1-76.png">76</a>]</span>chants. +On the whole, they showed great good temper, +and, pennyless and naked, were happier than well-clothed +and wealthy merchants.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon of yesterday a letter was brought to +me, written by Gameo, which had been in the ghafalah +nearly all the length of the route, but had been forgotten. +This stated that Mr. Macauley, the American +Consul, had kindly prepared a small package of American +rum for my journey, and had forgotten to send it till +too late—in fact, like several persons in Tripoli, he +really thought, what from the intrigues of the Pasha, +and the obstacles of the season, I should never get off. +I may observe, the nearer a person is to an object, it +often happens he sees it less:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>There is infinitely less enthusiasm for African discovery,—nay, +more horror of African travelling in Tripoli than +in London: in truth, the greater part of the Europeans +of Tripoli, and in all Barbary towns, are a degraded unenthusiastic +race, wholly occupied with their petty +quarrels and intrigues. Of course, a man of my stamp +was considered by them either "<i>un sciocco</i>" or "<i>un +matto</i>."</p> + +<p>It is the misfortune of Africa to be surrounded by a +cordon of vitiated races, half-caste and mongrel breeds, +propagated from adventurers and convicts from the other +continents of the world. So that Africa learns nothing +but the vices of civilization from its contact with the rest +of the world. It is also certain, that the native tribes +of Africa itself are more immoral and barbarous on +the coasts than in the interior.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-77" id="V1-77"></a>[<a href="images/1-77.png">77</a>]</span></p> + +<p>We have had the full moon during our last four days. +Our route is always more or less south-west.</p> + +<p>As I expected, Said is knocked up and lamed. The +Marabout has cheated Said all along out of his rides, +under pretence of his having made him a pair of shoes. +This Marabout is the cunningest, cruellest rogue I ever +met with. But I must here relate a service which he +rendered me of considerable importance. Nobody could +pronounce, at any rate <i>recollect</i>, my name. Mohammed +said to me one day, "<i>Ingleez</i>, we have many +names, have you no more than one? The ghafalah +can't learn your name, it's too difficult. Make a name +like ours, if you haven't one." I then told him I had +another, <i>James</i>, and that it was in Arabic, <i>Yâkob</i>. Hereupon, +his eyes moved round wildly with joy, and he +cried out,—"That's it! that's it!" He immediately +started off amongst all the people, calling out my name +was "<i>Yâkob</i>." This <i>second</i> christening in The Sahara +was an immense advantage to me. There is now not +an oasis in the wildest and farthest region of the Great +Desert but what has heard of <i>Yâkob</i>. When I arrived +at Ghat I was astonished to find even the Touaricks +calling me <i>Yâkob, as if I had been brought up with +them</i>. Clapperton and the rest of his party adopted +Mahometan names, and were wise in doing so. When +I was in Fezzan, Clapperton's Arabic name of <i>Abdallah</i> +was mentioned more than twenty years after his death +in Soudan. Denham was called The <i>Rais</i>, being an +officer.</p> + +<p>The road from The Mountains to Seenawan is very +good. The greater part, indeed, is beautiful broad carriage-road. +It is generally well marked with camel-<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-78" id="V1-78"></a>[<a href="images/1-78.png">78</a>]</span>paths, +about a foot wide. These well-beaten, well-trodden +paths, are very sinuous, running one into another, +and often are in great numbers, running parallel in +serpentine style, and containing a united breadth of a +hundred yards. There are a few places where no road-traces +are apparent to the European eye, but the well-practised +eye of the Bedouin camel-driver, like the eye +of the Indian in the American Wilderness, can see +things, and shapes, and signs in The Desert which entirely +escape us. Along the line of route small heaps of +stone are placed, said by my Marabout "to point out the +way." We did not meet a single traveller all the four +days, no small parties—no couriers—no one. I shall +not soon forget our reaching Seenawan. It was a few +hours after midnight. I looked forward to it as the +haven of rest from all my sufferings. A fellow-traveller +came up to me, (for I had been asking all night long to +see it,) and said, "See, Yâkob, there is the <i>Nukhlah</i> +(palms) of Seenawan." Looking through the shadowy +moon-light, I thought I saw something very small and +black, and made a start at it from my camel as if I was +going to leap into a downy bed of rest under the eternal +shade of grateful palms. When the object is +grasped, how its value vanishes! We threw down the +mattress under the shade of a little ruined round tower, +and I fell asleep. But such a tempest got up that the +people waked me, covered with sand, and made me crawl +into a hole, called the door of the <i>burge</i>. Here, amongst +heaps of stones and dirt, I fell asleep again, and did not +wake till called next day near noon.</p> + +<p>Seenawan is but a handful of date-trees, thrown upon +the wide waste of The Sahara, with one or two pools of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-79" id="V1-79"></a>[<a href="images/1-79.png">79</a>]</span> +sluggish running water, sheltering beneath its palms +thirty or forty inhabitants. There are four or five spots +of vegetation, gems of emerald on the rugged brow of +The Desert. The houses, if such they are, consist of +half a dozen or more of mud hovels huddled together, +here and there a little stone stuck in the walls, and +some dark passages running beneath them. One or two +had a couple of stories and a stone wall round them. +Yet, within, they are cool, and have dark rooms to protect +the inhabitants from both heat and cold. There are +also two or three mud and stone <i>burges</i>, or round +towers, to protect the few dates and spots of green. +Nevertheless, in this pretence of existence, surrounded +by the frightful sterility of The Desert, glowed the +warmth of true hospitality. The Arab merchant, Zaleeâ, +who lives here, and had been one of our caravan, made +me come to dine with him in his house, and introduced +me to his family. He gave me for dinner boiled mutton +and sopped bread. When I started next day, he presented +me a supply of eggs and two fowls, a sumptuous +feast in The Desert! I found his wife and daughter +suffering with ophthalmia, and made them up a pint-bottle +of solution for washing the eye. I had had to +wash the eyes of many poor Arabs during the last few +days. I gave Zaleeâ's aged father half a dozen ship's +biscuits, a part of one of which he sopped and ate. +The old gentleman offered up a prayer for my safety, +and said he would save one to eat on my safe return.</p> + +<p>The morning of the 20th was horribly hot, but I was +housed and sheltered in the old <i>burge</i>. I received a +present of some fresh dates. This was the small black +date of Ghadames, which is peculiar to two or three<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-80" id="V1-80"></a>[<a href="images/1-80.png">80</a>]</span> +oases about here. They were delicious as fruits of the +garden of the Houris, and certainly now more esteemed +by me. The Commandant, seeing me write to-day, +wished to have the honour of his name being written in +my journal. It is Omer Ben Aly Ben Kareem Bez-Zeen +Laseeâ. The people showed no jealousy at my +writing notes. Indeed, they were quite aware this was +part of my business, and often assisted in telling me the +names of persons and places. Never went an European +into the interior with less suspicions flying about him +amongst his fellow-travellers. I attribute this, in a great +measure, to the frankness with which I spoke about +Government and the Turkish authorities, as well as the +Consular people of Tripoli. Besides, I never affected to +conceal my objects. Here a man wrote in my journal +the names of abuse applied to the lazy, lagging camels, +for his own especial amusement; viz., "<i>Ya kafer, Ya +kelb, Ya Yehoud</i>, 'Oh thou infidel!' 'Oh thou dog!' +'Oh thou Jew!'" In a quarrel, the Arabs transfer them +complacently to one another, with sundry additions and +oaths, too broad for ears polite. <i>Kafer</i>, ("infidel,") and +<i>Deen El-kelb</i>, ("religion of a dog,") are the most odious +terms of abuse which they can throw at one another.</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i>—We left early this first sprinkle of Seenawan +vegetation, and passed the 22nd at the larger spot of the +oases. This second spot is called Shâour; but both +oases are included in the first name, as Ghat and Berkat +are included in <i>Ghat</i>. It is necessary to make these +distinctions in order to guard against error in laying +down the routes. Shâour consists of a few stunted date-trees, +a little <i>gusub</i>, a grain esteemed almost as much as +wheat, and one or two fig or other fruit-trees. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-81" id="V1-81"></a>[<a href="images/1-81.png">81</a>]</span> +united oasis, though but containing a population of sixty +souls, and all very poor people, pay 600 mahboubs per +annum to the Pasha of Tripoli. The oldest man of the +place told me, that, from the first hour of his observation +and recollection, to the present time, the water had +always been the same in quantity. There is always a +little more in the winter. It is running water, and as it +runs and bubbles up to the surface it is distributed over +the little garden plots and patches. I asked him why +he did not make the gardens larger? "God bless you," +he replied, "we would if we had more water." It is surprising +to notice the regularity of even this scanty supply +of water through the years of an old man's life, +upwards of eighty, in the heart of The Desert, for such +is the site of the oasis of Seenawan. I looked about for +birds, but saw none. My aged informant said, "In the +winter there are some doves." No wild beast haunt the +environs; they cannot get at the water. The people +keep a few sheep, goats, and fowls. There are also a +dozen or so of camels. It is remarkable that the soil of +this speck of vegetable existence is entirely sandy, and +all the water comes out of the sand. But in places, +indeed, on the coast of Barbary, the finest and most +vigorous vegetation often bursts forth out of a purely +sandy soil. By the time all the ghafalah had taken +their supply of water, and the camels had drunk, the +pools were dried up or exhausted, and the people of the +village had to wait for the running of the water. I put a +last question to my aged Saharan <i>Cicerone</i>,—"How do +you live here, do you work?" "I am always sleeping," +(or <i>kāéd</i>, "reposing.") "But, how do you get anything +to eat?" "Oh, I eat every other day, when I can get it,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-82" id="V1-82"></a>[<a href="images/1-82.png">82</a>]</span> +and sleep the rest of the time: what can I do?" Such +is vegetable and animal existence here! Nevertheless, +this show and sham of life looks fair, fresh, nay, enchanting, +after the five days' desert; and all, as well as myself, +welcomed Seenawan as a little Hesperides.</p> + +<p>We were a tolerably harmonious caravan, but had now +and then a good quarrel. To-day a serious misunderstanding +broke out between the Commandant Omer and one of +the merchants. I could not learn what it was about, but +Omer drew his sword twice to strike the merchant, and +was only prevented doing so by the bystanders rushing +on him. The Sheikh Makouran came to me apart and +said: "Now, if they ask you who's to blame, say both." +We then advanced to the parties, and the Sheikh turned +to me, and said: "<i>Yâkob</i>, who's to blame?" I immediately +said, though I knew nothing of the business: +"Everybody, all of you." This was the signal for a burst +of laughter, and the group separated. The quarrel, +however, did not finish, it was carried to Ghadames and +settled there. The Arabs enjoy a good quarrel, and, +like good ale, they prefer it, not being too new, but +caulked up a bit. The greater part of their occupation +and amusement is supplied by quarrels.</p> + +<p>Before leaving Seenawan the merchants dispatched +a courier to Ghadames, and Mohammed wrote a letter to +the Governor, telling him very pompously: "The English +Consul of Ghadames was approaching the city +under his protection." Mohammed said he had submitted +the letter to the Sheikh Makouran, and it was +approved. I approved of anything that had not my +name attached to it.</p> + +<p><i>22nd, 23rd.</i>—Left in the afternoon, and continued all<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-83" id="V1-83"></a>[<a href="images/1-83.png">83</a>]</span> +night, till two hours before day-break. Rose at sun-rise +and continued till nearly noon. Halted for the Kailah, +and afterwards resumed our journey, continuing all night. +The people of the ghafalah amused themselves in the night, +by "playing at powder." As they fired the matchlocks, +they shouted the name of the person whom they intended +to honour, mostly firing off the gun just under his nose. +Mohammed was very active in the business, and kept +firing off my praises, and those of the Sheikh Makouran. +This mode of compliment is universal in North Sahara. +The Marabout is a good politician, and knows what he +is about. He knew that Makouran and myself could +serve him. The style of firing off these praises was this: +"Who's this for?" cries the person that has the musket +ready loaded. A number of persons, the flatterers of +the great man, answer, "The Sheikh Makouran!" The +majority has it if other names are mentioned. The +man with his gun then runs before the Sheikh, and fires +it off in his face, or a very short distance from him.</p> + +<p>The camel-drivers showed a perverse disposition for +continuing all night the 22nd and 23rd, and would not +halt, without difficulty, for the two or three hours' rest +before day-break. The Commandant called for more +than an hour: "<i>Ya oulād oŭăl kāéd</i>, (You first fellows +stop!)" I never felt so angry with any people, as I did +with these oulad in advance, I myself was calling out, +"You first fellows stop!" But they were full a mile in +advance. The Arabs are very fond of this sort of disorder +and annoyance to others. Another party took it +into their heads to halt at noon, the 23rd, several miles +from the rest. The Commandant went after them, broke +up their encampment with violence, using his sword to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-84" id="V1-84"></a>[<a href="images/1-84.png">84</a>]</span> +hide them, and brought them up to the main body. +Very windy these two days, and got the sand in everything, +cooking utensils, cups, glasses, bowls. We found +the sand, however, occasionally useful, and used it instead +of water for cleaning our platters and cooking pots. +Some of the people say, it is better than water for +cleaning pots and platters.</p> + +<p>I have already said how my camel was harnessed, +if harnessing it can be called. First, two panniers were +placed (nicely balanced), which formed a sort of platform +upon a level with the camel's back-ridge and hump; a +mattress and skins next were placed on this, which were +tied down with Arab herb-cords, and carried under the +belly of the camel, securing the panniers as well as the +coverlets. A small ottoman was then put at the top, on +which I sat as on a chair-cushion, with my legs hanging +down on each side of the camel's neck. Sometimes I lay +at my full length across the mattress. But this the +people disapproved of for fear I should fall off. They, +however, frequently slept this way whilst riding. I was +dressed as slightly as possible, and had on a gingham +frock coat, with a leghorn hat. During the time the sun +was above the horizon, I held up an umbrella and tied a +dark-green silk handkerchief over my eyes and face. I +could have borne more clothing, but I think the Moors +and Arabs had too much. They don't change the quantity +with the season, and wear as much in summer as in +winter. The consequence is, they are very cold in winter, +and very much oppressed in summer; but it is mostly +the want of means which does not allow them to change +their clothing with the season. I carried a little bottle +of spirits and water to drink. In the night I was to eat<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-85" id="V1-85"></a>[<a href="images/1-85.png">85</a>]</span> +a little biscuit. None of the camels had bridles, unless +used solely to ride upon. The camel which I rode +was a very good one, and very knowing, and, like many +knowing animals, very vicious. He was in the habit of +biting all the other camels which did not please him on +their hind quarters, but took care not to get bitten himself. +He seldom stumbled, and I was rarely in fear of +falling. A camel will never plunge down a deep descent, +but always turn round when it comes to the edge of a +precipice. I often rode for several hours with comparative +comfort. The camel-drivers never ride when their +camels are laden, sometimes suffering as much as the +camels themselves. I somewhat offended the self-love +of the people of Ghadames. I asked them whether +Ghadames was bigger than Seenawan. They said pettishly, +"Ghadames <i>blad medina</i>, (Ghadames is a city)."</p> + +<p><i>24th.</i>—Emjessen. Arrived at these wells about 10 +<span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Earlier we had passed a place where they were +trying to get water. Emjessen is a vast salt plain, which +is covered over in different parts with a coating of salt, +hard enough and thick enough to furnish materials for +building. And here they were building a <i>burge</i>, "tower," +or <i>kasbah</i>, "castle," or <i>fonduk</i>, "caravanserai," (all which +names people called it,) with a large wall round the principal +wells, the materials of which were red earth and +lumps of salt, some of which appeared as hard as the +soft Malta stone. The water is, of course, brackish, but +nevertheless the camels drank it with eagerness. I was +staring at the eagerness with which the camels were +drinking, when the Commandant said, "<i>Enhār săkoun, +Yâkob</i>," (a hot day, James,) "do the camels in your +country drink water in that way?" Hereat a merchant<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-86" id="V1-86"></a>[<a href="images/1-86.png">86</a>]</span> +interposed, and instructed the Rais that the English had +no camels, but lived on boats in the water. This is a +very commonly spread opinion respecting the English in +The Desert. But Caillié says of the Foulahs near Kankan, +and other tribes: "The prevailing idea of the people in +the interior of Soudan is, that we inhabit little islands in +the middle of the ocean, and that the Europeans wish +to get possession of their country, which is the most +beautiful in the world." Mohammed would not allow his +camels to drink here, and said the water was bad. Emjessen +is situate about ten hours from Ghadames, say, a +short day's journey.</p> + +<p>The Sahara all around now showed still more marked +features of sterility, of unconquerable barrenness. Here +too, for the first time, I saw boundless ridges and groups +of sand stretching far away to the south-west, but they +were low squatting heaps. Some sand-hills we had +crossed for an hour or two. Mohammed called them +<i>wâr</i>, and asked me to descend to save his camel's legs, +I thought my legs less practised in The Desert than the +camel's, and kept my place. Here were spread about, +between the sand-hills and low black stony ridges, plains +of salt and chalk. My first impression was, that the +sea had once covered these regions.</p> + +<p>Our route was still south-west, and south, and the +prevailing wind <i>ghiblee</i>, or from about the same quarter.</p> + +<p>On leaving <i>Emjessem</i>, we were met in the afternoon by +several friends and relatives of the merchants, who had +come from Ghadames in answer or invitation to our +letters written at <i>Seenawan</i>. These strangers (to me) +were finely mounted upon camels of the Maharee species, +both themselves and their camels dressed out superbly,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-87" id="V1-87"></a>[<a href="images/1-87.png">87</a>]</span> +the camels being tightly reined up like coursers. They +had a novel and noble appearance, and I thought I saw +in them something of the genuine features of The +Desert. They had come eight or ten miles an hour, a +long <i>galloping</i> trot, for such is the motion of the camel. +As soon as the two parties met, there was a simultaneous +scamper off of our camels, and some of theirs got very +unmanageable. I was nearly thrown off, and it required +Mohammed and Said to hold my camel until the alarm +had subsided. The Sheikh Makouran was obliged to +dismount and ride his donkey. I asked Mohammed +what was the matter, for I could not understand this +strange confusion all at once amongst the camels. He +cried very angrily, "The camels are drunk, are mad—God +made them so." When things got more settled, the +merchants explained to me that it was the antipathies +of the two races, the <i>coast</i>-camel, and the Maharee or +<i>desert</i>-camel. That each was alarmed, but the most +fierce and dominant was the Maharee, which always +assumed the mastery over the coast-camel, "like," added +one, "the Touarick assumes to be lord over the Arab."</p> + +<p>To-night I was obliged to quarrel seriously with +Mohammed. Said was now quite lame and could not +walk more. I told Mohammed plainly he should have +no present as first promised, since he had broken his +agreement about Said's riding. He then put Said on +a camel. The merchants were much amused at the +quarrel, and thought me an ass to quarrel about <i>a slave</i>, +(for such they esteemed Said) having a ride<a name="FNa_1-18" id="FNa_1-18"></a><a href="#FoN_1-18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>. Some<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-88" id="V1-88"></a>[<a href="images/1-88.png">88</a>]</span> +few observed I was right, and bullied Mohammed, who +now made another lying excuse, that his two camels +were knocked up, which was the reason Said didn't ride. +The early part of the night he had been riding one of +them himself, and taxing him with this, he said, "Yes, +but was I not ill, didn't you give me some water and +acid, and sugar?" I replied, "Yes, I recollect it too well, +I'm sorry I had so good an opinion of you." The Commandant +now came up, and some bawled, "Here's a +<i>shamatah</i><a name="FNa_1-19" id="FNa_1-19"></a><a href="#FoN_1-19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> with Said," and explained the business. The +Commandant, without any more to do, takes the back +of his sword and belabours Mohammed till he cries for +mercy. Then the people beg the Rais to desist, and +say, "Mohammed is a <i>marabout</i> and must not be +beaten." Mohammed was very cunning, and always took +care to repeat aloud a prayer when we started afresh +from any station, and so gained the esteem of the more +pious. Said rode the rest of the way to Ghadames.</p> + +<p>During the greater part of the night of the 24th we +reposed. At dawn of day, on the 25th, we started +fresh on the last march. Just when day had broken +over half the heavens, <i>I saw Ghadames</i>! which appeared +like <i>a thick streak of black</i> on the pale circle of the +horizon. This was its date-woods. I now fancied I +had discovered a new world, or had seen Timbuctoo, or +followed the whole course of the Niger, or had done +something very extraordinary. But the illusion soon +vanished, as vanish all the vain hopes and foolish aspirations +of man. I found afterwards that I had only made +one step, or laid one stone, in raising for myself a monument +of fame in the annals of African discovery!</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-12" id="FoN_1-12"></a><a href="#FNa_1-12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> The term Rais is applied by these people both to a naval and +military commander, the literal meaning being "head."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-13" id="FoN_1-13"></a><a href="#FNa_1-13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> When an European arrives first in a remote Barbary town, +although there may be many Europeans in the place, he is mostly +called and mentioned in Moorish society as "The Christian," which +happened to myself in Mogador.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-14" id="FoN_1-14"></a><a href="#FNa_1-14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> How strangely the genius of nations of such different habits +have given the name of "sisters" to separate groups of trees. I +have also passed twin peaks of mountains in Africa, called "brothers" +by the Arabs. But <i>Bou</i> or <i>Abou</i>, "father," is the ordinary +appellation of things in North Africa. <i>Omm</i>, "mother," is also +very common. The two last are found in combination.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-15" id="FoN_1-15"></a><a href="#FNa_1-15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Long names are not confined to European rank and royalty. +The Sheikh's name in full is, "The Sheikh Bel Kasem Ben Ali +Abd-el-Hafeeth, the Rujbanee." And this is only the quarter of the +length of some of these names.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-16" id="FoN_1-16"></a><a href="#FNa_1-16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> So I found it written in the first portions of the journal.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-17" id="FoN_1-17"></a><a href="#FNa_1-17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> <i>Yâkob</i>, Arabic for James.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-18" id="FoN_1-18"></a><a href="#FNa_1-18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> There were certainly several slaves walking; but they were +all long accustomed to it, whilst Said had only just come out of a +weaver's establishment, where he had been many years.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-19" id="FoN_1-19"></a><a href="#FNa_1-19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> Turkish, "a row;" but mostly "war," "battles."</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-89" id="V1-89"></a>[<a href="images/1-89.png">89</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<h3>RESIDENCE IN GHADAMES TO BEGINNING OF THE RAMADAN.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival at Ghadames.—Welcome of the People.—Interview with +the Governor, Rais Mustapha.—Distances of the route from +Tripoli to Ghadames.—Geographical position of the Oasis.—First +sight of the Touaricks.—Commence practising as Quack-Doctor.—Devotion +of the Arabs.—Prejudices of the People, +and overcome by the Rais.—Many Patients.—My House full of +Touaricks.—The Sheikh of the Slaves.—Character of my Camel-Driver.—I +make the tour of the Oasis.—Visit to the Souk.—Prejudices +against me diminish.—First sight of Birds.—A young +Taleb's specimen of Writing.—My Turjeman's House.—The +Negro Dervish.—Touarick Camel Races.—A few Drops of Rain.—Various +Visits, Conversations, &c., about Timbuctoo.—Prevalent +Diseases, and my Medicine Chest.—Evening previous to the +Ramadan.—Houses, Public Buildings, and Streets.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gradually</span> we neared the city as the day got up. +It was dusty and hot, and disagreeable. My feelings +were down at zero; and I certainly did not proceed to +enter the city in style of conqueror, one who had vanquished +the galling hardships of The Desert, in the most +unfavourable season of the year. We were now met +with a great number of the people of the city, come +to welcome the safe arrival of their friends, for +travelling in The Desert is always considered insecure +even by its very inhabitants. Amongst the rest was the +merchant Essnousee, whose acquaintance I had made in +Tripoli, who welcomed me much to my satisfaction when +thus entering into a strange place. Another person +came up to me, who, to my surprise, spoke a few words +in Italian, which I could not expect to hear in The<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-90" id="V1-90"></a>[<a href="images/1-90.png">90</a>]</span> +Desert. He followed me into the town, and the Governor +afterwards ordered him to be my turjeman, ("interpreter"). +Now, the curiosity of the people became much +excited, all ran to see <i>The Christian</i>! Every body in +the city knew I was coming two months before my arrival. +As soon as I arrived in Tripoli, the first caravan took +the wonderful intelligence of the appointment of an +English Consul at Ghadames. A couple of score of boys +followed hard at the heels of my camel, and some running +before, to look at my face; the men gaped with +wide open mouths; and the women started up eagerly +to the tops of the houses of the Arab suburb, clapping +their hands and <i>loolooing</i>. It is perhaps characteristic +of the more gentle and unsophisticated nature of womankind, +that women of The Desert give you a more lively +reception than men. The men are gloomy and silent, or +merely curious without any demonstrations. I entered +the city by the southern gate. The entrance was by no +means imposing. There was a rough-hewn, worn, dilapidated +gate-way, lined with stone-benches, on which +The Ancients were once accustomed to sit and dispense +justice as in old Israelitish times. Having passed this +ancient gate, which wore the age of a thousand years, +we wound round and round in the suburbs within the +walls, through narrow and intricate lanes, with mud +walls on each side, which inclosed the gardens. The +palms shot their branches over from above, and relieved +this otherwise repulsive sight to the stranger. But I +was too much fatigued and exhausted to notice any +thing, and almost ready to drop from off my camel. In +fact, the distance which I had come since I first saw the +dark palms of the city at the dawn, seemed to exceed<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-91" id="V1-91"></a>[<a href="images/1-91.png">91</a>]</span> +(mostly the case when exhausted in completing the last +mile of the journey,) all the rest of the route. I now +proceeded forthwith to the Governor, the Rais Mustapha, +being led by the people <i>en masse</i>, who, on seeing me, +said, "<i>Es-slamah! Es-slamah! Es-slamah!</i>" ordered +me coffee, and gave me a cordial welcome. It was +about 10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> His Excellency was sitting out in the +street on a stone-bench, under the shade. Some visitors +were sitting at a distance, and servants were lounging +about. The Governor's house is without the city, in +the gardens. It was cleanly white-washed, but small, +only two stories high. Before the door it was well +watered, and there was a freshness springing up from +the water just sprinkled about. Several palms cast +gracefully their dark shadows on the street. The Governor +was very sick, his face was tied up, and his eyes +covered. But he smoked incessantly. He said only a +few words through his interpreter. I was equally out +of order, and begged him to allow me to go to the +house which was being prepared for me. He consented; +and two hours after his Excellency sent me a dinner of +mutton, fowls, and rice.</p> + +<p>If I were asked my opinion as to this journey, and its +being undertaken by an European, I would answer for +myself, that I would risk it again, because I know my +constitution, and how to treat myself. But I could not +conscientiously recommend it to others in this season of +the year. Were I to perform it again, I would manage +much better. I would be better mounted, have a better +tent, and a better assortment of provisions. Most assuredly +I have great reason to thank Providence that I +am arrived in perfect health.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-92" id="V1-92"></a>[<a href="images/1-92.png">92</a>]</span></p> + +<p>The whole time from Tripoli to Ghadames had occupied +twenty-three days, but seven or eight had been +consumed by delay in The Mountains. The absolute +distances of travelling given me by Mohammed, are:—</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Absolute Distances of Travelling"> +<tr><td align='left'>From</td><td align='left'>Tripoli to Janzour</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='left'>hours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Janzour to Zouweeah</td><td align='right'>9</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Zouweeah to Beer-el-Hamra</td><td align='right'>2</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Beer-el-Hamra to Shouwabeeah</td><td align='right'>5</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Shouwabeeah to Wady Lethel</td><td align='right'>14</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Wady Lethel to Aâyat</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Aâyat to Yefran</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Yefran to Rujban</td><td align='right'>18</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Rujban to Seenawan</td><td align='right'>4</td><td align='center'>days.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='left'> </td><td align='left'>(sometimes 5.)</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Seenawan to Emjessen</td><td align='right'>2</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Emjessen to Ghadames</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +</table></div> +<p>The quickest time, in more general terms, in which +the journey can be performed, excluding of course all +stoppages, is:—</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Absolute Distances of Travelling, Excluding Stoppages"> +<tr><td align='left'>From</td><td align='left'>Tripoli to The Mountains</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='left'>days.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>The Mountains to Seenawan</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Seenawan to Ghadames</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +</table></div> +<p>The French geographers, for some reason, have made +Ghadames situate upon a salt plain, confounding its site +with the salt plain of <i>Emjessen</i>. There is no salt plain +in the suburbs of Ghadames, or the country near. According +to the <i>official</i> letter of the Porte, written by Ali +Effendi, Minister of Foreign Affairs, the oasis is situate +in the <i>Caimakat de Jibel Garbigi</i>. As I did not +receive the Porte's memorandum of my recall from +Ghadames until my return, I made no inquiries of this +mountain <i>Garbigi</i>, but I imagine it exists, though I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-93" id="V1-93"></a>[<a href="images/1-93.png">93</a>]</span> +never heard its name. Ghadames is situate in 30° 9′ +north latitude, and in 9° 18′ east longitude.</p> + +<p><i>25th.</i>—I find my house, which had been prepared for +me by the kindness of the Sheikh Haj Mohammed +Makouran, very commodious and tolerably clean, and I +make myself at home. It is situate in the suburbs, close +by the Governor's house. I now tried to get a nap, but +could not. Then I went to bathe in the Mysterious +Spring, whence springs up this city as an emerald amidst +a waste of stone and sand! Intend bathing every day if +I can. Saw Essnousee again, and many of the merchants +whom I had seen at Tripoli. Found them all +civil. But the people who most excited my attention +were the Touaricks, whom I now saw for the first time. +Many of them were here at this time for trading purposes. +They expressed as much astonishment at seeing +me as I them, some exclaiming, "God! God! how could +the Infidel come here?" Late in the afternoon, after napping, +went again into the city: was much pleased with +its appearance. Thought it better than Tripoli, considering +the position of the respective places, Tripoli on +the edge of the sea, and open to all the world, and +Ghadames in the midst of The Desert, far from the +shores of the Mediterranean. No poor are seen begging +about the streets, and all the people look well dressed today. +They had put on their holiday clothes, which is +usual on the arrival of a large caravan. What a contrast +was this to the squalor and filth of Tripoli, with its +miserable beggars choking up all the thoroughfares! No +women were seen about but the half-castes, mostly +slaves, but plenty of children playing here and there. I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-94" id="V1-94"></a>[<a href="images/1-94.png">94</a>]</span> +heard amongst them the whisper of "The Kafer, the +Kafer!" as I passed by.</p> + +<p>Began to practise my quackery very early, and administered +solution for the eye in various parts of the +streets <i>pro bono publico</i>. The Rais sent for me likewise, +and I poured a few drops of caustic into his eyes. +In fact, I was full of business, although but a few hours +in the town, and hardly had time to look about me. +This business after such a journey! My turjeman, +Bel-Kasem, also took me into his garden, and gave me a +supply of onions, peppers, and dates. The gardens +appeared quite equal to those of Tripoli. The turjeman +was soon useful, though he only spoke a few words of +Italian, but chiefly because he had less prejudices against +the Christians than his fellow-townsmen. He had +worked in the house of a French merchant in Tunis +many years, and always retained a sort of sneaking +kindness for Frenchmen, which indeed was much to his +credit. In walking about the town, I was followed by +groups of children and black women, all running one +over another to see me. My turjeman was obliged to +beat them to keep them off. I am the <i>second</i> Christian +who has visited Ghadames; the first being the unfortunate +Major Laing, who never returned to record what he saw +in this city! But his residence of a few days here is +forgotten by nearly all the present generation. The +Rais is the only Turk. All the troops are Arabs. The +Ghadamsee people are never soldiers. This evening the +Rais sent me supper, much the same as the dinner.</p> + +<p>The people of the ghafalah (the Arab strangers), went +to pray this evening in the mosque set apart for strangers.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-95" id="V1-95"></a>[<a href="images/1-95.png">95</a>]</span> +I must not omit the mention of the strict and scrupulous +exactitude with which all the ghafalah prayed <i>en route</i>. +Five times a day is prescribed by the Koran. Most of +them prayed the five times, but not altogether, some +choosing their own time, a liberty allowed to travellers. +It was a refreshing, though at the same time a saddening +sight, to see the poor Arab camel-drivers pray so +devoutly, laying their naked foreheads upon the sharp +stones and sand of The Desert—people who had literally +so few of the bounties of Providence, many of them +scarcely any thing to eat—and yet these travel-worn, +famished men supplicated the Eternal God with great +and earnest devotion! What a lesson for the fat, overfed +Christian! And shall we say, that because these +men are Mohammedans, <i>therefore</i> the portals of heaven +are hermetically sealed against the rising incense of their +Desert prayers? . . . It is hard to think so . . . though +some think so.</p> + +<p><i>26th.</i>—Employed as yesterday in administering the +medicines. My turjeman did not come to-day, and I +suspected, intuitively almost, the people of Ghadames +had persuaded him not to come. It turned out afterwards +that my suspicions were well-founded; nevertheless, +I received several small presents from the people. +The merchants are civil, but some little jealousy discovers +itself on religious grounds. All Mohammedans +have got an idea that the Christians will one day take +their countries from them, but that, in the end, with +the aid of God, they will revenge themselves, and +repossess all their cities and countries: "This," said my +Marabout, "is a prophecy contained in our sacred books." +My presence is therefore by some considered the pre<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-96" id="V1-96"></a>[<a href="images/1-96.png">96</a>]</span>liminary +for the overthrow of the Mussulman power of +Ghadames, I am the scout, the spy into "the nakedness +of the land;" others think I pollute the sacred city of +Ghadames with my infidel carcass. Yesterday I got +also entangled in the labyrinth of dark streets, some of +which are often turned into mosques at certain hours of +the day. Of this the people complained to the Rais, +who sent me word to be careful. I replied, I was an +utter stranger, and did not know what I was about; in +fact, the Rais excused me to the people saying, "A little +by little, The Christian will know to do all which is +right. We must teach him." Indeed, I found the conduct +of Mustapha from the first very kind, and he was +determined no improper prejudices should get into the +heads of the people against me. The Rais continued to +send me breakfast, dinner, and supper. "This," said +the servant, "would continue <i>three</i> days, according to +custom;" in fact, I found the same custom adopted by +the Governor of Ghat. Caillié mentions the custom as +prevailing amongst the Braknas. But it will soon be +seen that the Rais did not stint his hospitality to this +conventional usage. His Excellency found his eyes +better to-day, and I gave him a dose of pills.</p> + +<p>My camel-driver came up to me in his usual soft +sneaking way, and began his pious jargon:—"God be +praised for Yâkob, because he has arrived safe in +Ghadames—now God is one, and above all things powerful. +Besslamah." This he was wont to repeat <i>en +route</i>. He then said gravely, "Now, Yâkob, you are +my friend—you wish to go to Soudan, I will go with +you, if you like, but I will sell you my camel, on which +you rode here. You know it's good and very wise. It<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-97" id="V1-97"></a>[<a href="images/1-97.png">97</a>]</span> +doesn't stumble. Buy it, I'll sell it because you are my +friend, you shall have it cheap, for twenty-five dollars." +The fact is, the camel had got a small hole in its back, +and being afraid he should not cure the camel, he wanted +me to buy it. Twenty-five dollars is the average price +of a camel.</p> + +<p><i>27th.</i>—Paid a visit this morning to the Rais; told +him the turjeman was afraid to come with me to show +me the city and interpret, because the people said to +him, "Bel-Kasem, thou must not show The Christian the +sacred things of our holy city: never were they polluted +by an infidel." The Rais smiled and ridiculed the thing, +and said he would send for the man. I observed I would +pay him so much per day. "No," he replied, "I am +his master, you are a stranger, I must pay." Whilst we +were talking, a letter came informing the Rais that some +robbers had carried off six camels from the village of +Seenawan. The Rais was displeased and said to me, +"All this country is <i>batel</i> (good-for-nothing)." I asked +the Rais if there were a prison in Ghadames.</p> + +<p><i>H. E.</i> "Yes."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i> "Is there any body in it?"</p> + +<p><i>H. E.</i> "No."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i> "How?"</p> + +<p><i>H. E.</i> "This is a city of dervishes and marabouts—people +don't steal—if they've nothing to eat they beg."</p> + +<p>People are calling at my house all day long for +medicines. Every morning I send tea (made, of course,) +to the Rais and the Sheikh Makouran. Presented the +Rais with my Moorish portfolio, all worked over with +various devices in leather and silk. He was quite delighted +with it, observing, "The Christians are good<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-98" id="V1-98"></a>[<a href="images/1-98.png">98</a>]</span> +people, but the people here don't know them. Yâkob, +take courage, little by little," (a favourite expression of +the Rais). Next to my house is a garden whose date-trees +bear no fruit, and its beds are covered with dry +dust, a sad picture of neglect. On asking how this was, +I was told the owner was in Soudan, and in consequence +no one looked after and watered his garden. The merchants +of this city often remain in Soudan five, ten, even +fifteen and twenty years, leaving their families here +whilst they accumulate a fortune in commercial speculations. +Sometimes they marry other wives in Soudan, +and form another establishment.</p> + +<p>Bathed again in the Spring, but found it surrounded +with women, fetching water. Contented myself with +washing in one of the private washing apartments +attached to the Spring. The water was warm, but I felt +afterwards cool and refreshed. There are no public +baths here as on the coast towns. I observed the place +formed of a high raised stone-bench, just as you enter +the city, (on our side) where all strangers pray. It +seems built on, the principle of some Romanist churches, +which are dedicated, like those of the ancient classic +temples, to particular uses and services. My Marabout +prayed in it with devout fervour as we passed, I being +obliged to wait for him.</p> + +<p>This evening dined with the Rais at his house for the +first time. His Excellency was extremely kind and +spoke freely of the Ghadamsee people. "These," said +he, "are a people given up to prayer, and many of them +spend their time in nothing else."</p> + +<p>I said, "Are there ten thousand people in Ghadames? +So I have heard."<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-99" id="V1-99"></a>[<a href="images/1-99.png">99</a>]</span></p> + +<p>Astonished, he replied, "There are not five hundred men."</p> + +<p>"Are there not several of the people travelling?"</p> + +<p>"Only a few."</p> + +<p>Then, talking of thieves and banditti, the Rais told +me to bring my money to his house in order that he +might take care of it. On depositing it with him he +asked how much it was. There were only two hundred +piastres of Tunis, all the money I had. The Rais +seemed surprised it was so little (about <i>seven pounds +sterling</i>!) I made the best of it by telling him if I +remained I must send for some more. He also recommended +me not to sleep on the top of the house, but in +my room, and shut the door. However, it is so hot that +I should be suffocated if I were not to leave the door +open. In explanation, he said, "The Touaricks and +other strangers are thieves." The Rais is very sick, with +bad eyes. Sent him some more physic.</p> + +<p>Whilst writing my journal, the house is filled with +Touaricks, and I cannot get rid of them. I am obliged +therefore to enter into conversation to amuse them.</p> + +<p>"How large is Ghat? as large as Ghadames?"</p> + +<p>"Bigger than Tripoli."</p> + +<p>"Have you plenty of meat in Ghat?"</p> + +<p>"Plenty of everything."</p> + +<p>"I am afraid of you—you killed one of my countrymen +near Timbuctoo?"</p> + +<p>"No, no, (crying out lustily,) not the Touaricks of our +country."</p> + +<p>"Will you take me safe to Ghat?"</p> + +<p>"Upon our lives!" (<i>Drawing their swords across +their foreheads.</i>)<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-100" id="V1-100"></a>[<a href="images/1-100.png">100</a>]</span></p> + +<p>"Have you a written language?"</p> + +<p>"Yes."</p> + +<p>"What's your name?" (The Touaricks to me.)</p> + +<p>"Here, I will write it."</p> + +<p>"Have you any medicine for the eye?"</p> + +<p>"Yes."</p> + +<p>I then applied some solution to the eyes of one of +them. Another said:</p> + +<p>"My son is always coughing<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads ','">.</ins> What shall I do for him?"</p> + +<p>"Bring him here," I said, "in the morning, and I will +give him something."</p> + +<p><i>The Touarick.</i>—"You won't poison him?"</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"No, no."</p> + +<p>They then entered upon a religious conversation.</p> + +<p>"What do you think of <i>religion</i>? Do you pray?"</p> + +<p>"Well, there is one God."</p> + +<p>"And, Mohammed?"</p> + +<p>"He is the prophet of the <i>Arabs</i>."</p> + +<p>"Who is your prophet?"</p> + +<p>"Jesus; he is Prophet of all the Christians, as Moses +is the prophet of the Jews."</p> + +<p>(With impatience.) "But Mohammed?"</p> + +<p>"We Christians have but one Prophet, who is Jesus."</p> + +<p>Here an interruption took place, of which I was very +glad. Afterwards they resumed:</p> + +<p>"Have you any powder?"</p> + +<p>"No; I am an English Marabout, and carry no arms, +and have nothing to give away but medicines."</p> + +<p>"Aye, an English Marabout, and not a merchant?"</p> + +<p>"No; only a Marabout."</p> + +<p>One of them. "We shall take your name as you +have written it on this paper, and show it to our people.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-101" id="V1-101"></a>[<a href="images/1-101.png">101</a>]</span> +It will be esteemed precious by them; and if you ever +wander that way through The Desert, they will ask you +your name, and, if you reply to it, they will not kill you, +but give you plenty of camel's milk. If they have not +your name they may kill you, and not their fault."</p> + +<p>Had a visit from the Sheikh of the slaves. In most +countries of North Africa there is a chief appointed by +Government for any particular race, not the same as the +ruling dynasty, domestic as well as foreign, which may +be resident in the towns and cities. So the Jews of +Barbary have their chiefs, and the slaves theirs. In +Tunis a number of free coloured people, called <i>Waraghleeah</i>, +emigrants from the Algerian oasis of Warklah, +have also their chief or headsman. This chief has rather +large and even discretionary powers, and can order +his subjects to be imprisoned by the officers of the +sovereign Government of the country. But, of course, +this imperium in imperio is subject to the supervision of +the supreme Government. The object is apparently to +relieve the Government, but whilst it relieves the higher +authorities, it inflicts irreparable injuries upon poor +people, and is full of the most gigantic abuses. It is +often complained of by the Levant correspondents of +newspapers, under the character of the various spiritual +tribunals of Eastern Christians inflicting fines, torture, +and imprisonment on refractory or heretic members of +those churches. The Jewish synods of Africa and the +East exercise the same arbitrary powers, under the sanction +of the supreme Mahometan authorities. Lately, however, +the European ambassadors have done something to +check these abuses in the dominions of the Porte.</p> + +<p>After some conversation, I asked the Sheikh of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-102" id="V1-102"></a>[<a href="images/1-102.png">102</a>]</span> +Ghadames slaves what were his duties. Drawing himself +up into a posture of authority, he replied:—"Be it +known, Oh Christian! I am the Sheikh of the slaves, my +name is Ahmed. I am from Timbuctoo. The people of +Bambara are the finest in the world. They are brave—they +fear none. Now, hear me: I know all the names +of the slaves in Ghadames: I watch over all their conduct, +to punish them when they behave badly, to praise +them when they do well. They all fear me. For my +trouble I receive nothing. I am a slave myself. I rarely +punish the slaves. We have always here more than two +hundred. If you wait, plenty of slaves will soon come +from Soudan!"</p> + +<p>Late to-night, Mohammed the Marabout of Rujban, +left for his country and Tripoli. I gave him some +Ghadames dates to take to Tripoli as presents, the small +black dates, as a rarity, and to let the people know I +had not so much forgotten them as they had forgotten +me. This clever, cunning, selfish fellow, I completely +overreached. He never believed that I had the courage +to punish his bad conduct. I had promised him, besides +the ten mahboubs (about forty shillings), the hire of the +two camels from Tripoli to Ghadames, a present, or backsheesh +of two mahboubs, on his behaving well. On paying +him his ten mahboubs I told him there was no backsheesh. +At first he was astonished and looked pale, shaking in +every limb, for he expected to reap a great harvest by +my affair—even a double present to what was promised. +But on reflecting that he had lamed Said, who was still +laid up, had pilfered our provisions all the way, and lived +on us by force, although the agreement was that he +should keep himself, he confessed I was right, or thought<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-103" id="V1-103"></a>[<a href="images/1-103.png">103</a>]</span> +it better to make the confession. However, he beat +about the merchants, and got two or three of them to +come down to speak to me, who said, "If he has done +bad, treat him bad, that is, give him a little backsheesh." +I then gave him half a dollar. His ingenuity was never +exhausted. He pretended I ought to feed the camels +two or three days after their arrival, which he said was +the rule. There is no herbage for miles in the neighbourhood +of Ghadames. The people are sometimes +obliged to drive their camels to Seenawan, or Derge, +two or three days' distance, to feed. I gave way, and +added a trifle. He then begged something for his wife; +he had bought her a pair of Ghadames shoes, worked +with silk, which shows an Arab can have an affectionate +remembrance for his wife, but which has been denied by +some. I again added something. He now had his supper. +I gave him a feed of mutton, and broth and bread. +This was his feast before parting, for I did not like to +send him away as a blackguard, notwithstanding he had +extremely annoyed me. I never saw a person eat with +such voracity. After his allowance, or the supper I +had cooked him, a large supper was sent in by the Rais +for three. He set to and ate his own and Said's share +in the bargain. I have often seen Arabs gorge in this +way, but, what is most singular, when obliged to be +abstemious they scarcely eat the amount of two penny +loaves per day. Mohammed was a good type of this +Arab abstemiousness and voracity. When he kept himself, +he only took a small and most frugal meal once a +day. Of his gluttony I may add, that I was obliged to +separate his mess from that of Said when he dined with +me. If not, he would eat Said's mess and his own<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-104" id="V1-104"></a>[<a href="images/1-104.png">104</a>]</span> +before I could see what they were about. At last Mohammed +began to soften and to confess adroitly, for he +was one of the acutest Arabs I ever met with. He +observed to me, in a whining tone, "Now I am going, +I wish to tell you something. You think me very bad, +and a great rogue, and so I am; but, I tell you, if you +had had any other Arab you would have found him a +thousand times a bigger rogue than myself, <i>for all the +Arabs are dogs</i>. This is the truth: (<i>El-khok</i>.)" After +this confession, I gave him a certificate of my having +arrived safe in Ghadames under his guidance. This I +could not object to do, in order that he might show it +to the Pasha and the English Consul. Some of his +remarks were full of <i>sel</i>, but mostly touched with selfishness. +One evening, looking at his camels feeding, he +said, "Ah, Yâkob, see those camels eat. It does my +heart good to see them, for what am I without my +camels, what are the Arabs without the camels—are +not the camels the pillars which support the Arab's +house?" At other times he would abuse his fellow +camel-drivers for coming into my tent, upbraiding them,—"What, +do you want to rob The Christian? Am not +I encharged with his affairs?" Mohammed was rather +tall, and of lean habit of body, like all Arabs. His +hearing and sight were very quick, and he always seemed +to sleep like a watch-dog. His bravery I never tested. +He was mostly lively and facetious. He was good-looking, +and about thirty years of age.</p> + +<p>I saw him after my return to Tripoli. He wanted +to go with me again. He said to me, "Now you have +seen all, The Mountains, The Sahara, and the Touaricks. +You know all our affairs, and everything we do." As a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-105" id="V1-105"></a>[<a href="images/1-105.png">105</a>]</span> +literary curiosity, I shall here translate my camel-driver's +account of the route from Tripoli to Ghadames, written +at my request, in which will be seen the camel-driver's +minute acquaintance with the route, and how every wady, +and well, and mountain, is particularized. This is the +style of the Saharan travellers and chroniclers.</p> + +<p>"First Tripoli, and not far from it are palms of El-Hamabaj, +and a mosque El-Kajeej. You then proceed +to Gargash, in which are palms, and along the road the +Kesar Jahaly. And you go on to Janzour, in which are +palms and two castles, one of them is called Kesar Areek, +and the Kesar of the Turkish soldiers (God curse them!) +Upon the sea-shore is the mosque of Sidi Abd-el-Jeleel. +And you proceed to Seid, where are palms and the +Indian fig. And you go on to Ghafeeah, and here is cool +refreshing water, (oh! how delicious in the great heat!) +and you pass the water to El-Toubeem, where are palms, +and mosques, and houses. You go on to Zaweeah, where +are palms, houses, and a Kesar for troops, and a Zaweeah +for the reading of The Sublime Koran, and mosques. +You proceed thence to Houshel, in which are palms and +houses. You move on to Aabareeah, where are palms. +You now reach The Sahara, where there is a little sand; +you find in it the well of El-Hamra. Pursuing your way +upon The Sahara, you find the well of Esh-Shaibeeah. +And travelling on The Sahara you find another well +called Lakhreej. You travel further on The Sahara, and find +Afoub Aaly, where there is sand, called El-Hal. +And after it, you find Wady Lethel, in which are lote-trees +and the lethel, a large tree like an olive-tree. And +you travel to El-Jibel, where are houses and a Kesar for +troops. In the country called Yefran, are olive-trees<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-106" id="V1-106"></a>[<a href="images/1-106.png">106</a>]</span> +and fig-trees; and below the country (or in the plains), +you find palms. And near El-Gibel, in all the countries +you find olive-trees and fig-trees, as far as the other mountains +westward. Now Rujban (my happy country, the +blessing of God on it!) has seven countries, viz.:—El-Barahem, +and Tarkat, and Sharn, and Zâferan, and Ghalat, +and Zantan, and Tarbeeah.</p> + +<p>"We mounted from Rujban and from El-Gibel, and +went to Eth-Tha, where is Koteet, between Ez-Zantan +and Rujban. Thence we travelled to Wady Souk-ej-Jeen. +Thence to Haram and Et-Teen. And we travelled to +Wady-Azgheer, and afterwards Wady Walas. Thence +we arrived again on The Sahara, called El-Hamrad, +which is <i>fertile</i><a name="FNa_1-20" id="FNa_1-20"></a><a href="#FoN_1-20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> land, and on it are lote-trees, bearing +berries (<i>nebek</i>). Now, oh Yâkob! this is not the lote-tree +in the seventh heaven, near the presence of Rubbee +(God), and which Gabriel, nor our lord Mahomet, dare +not pass beyond. Alas! O Yâkob, if you believe not +in Mahomet, you cannot be near this lote-tree. It says +in the Koran, 'It covers the concealed<a name="FNa_1-21" id="FNa_1-21"></a><a href="#FoN_1-21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a>.' And we +ascended a hill,—a high hill, that is to say, a little +mountain. And we ascended (descended?) to a wady, +called Ahween, in which is a well on the west of the +route. And after this is Eshâab, small wadys, called +Eshâab Eth-Thoueeb, and after them is Wady Seelas, +where there is a well of water. You pass by it on the +road, and come to Seenawan, in which is a spring of +water, called Spring Aly. In Seenawan are palms, and +its <i>ghotbah</i> is like a tower (burge), built with small stones,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-107" id="V1-107"></a>[<a href="images/1-107.png">107</a>]</span> +and so of the country (village) near it. And after this +is the country Esh-Shâour, where there is water from +springs which run upon the face of the earth, and palms +and houses built with small stones. From The Mountains +to Seenawan are four days with heavily laden +camels.</p> + +<p>"Afterwards you travel and find Wady Babous Eth-Theeb. +Thence there is land, on which is sand, and in +this the well of water El-Wateeah. After there is +Wady Ej-Jeefah. Then Saheer El-Maharee, and then a +long stream, in which are reeds. Afterwards you find +Hinsheer El-Basasah. And after El-Bab-Rumel ("gate +of sand"), a difficult place. Thence you come to Emjessem. +All this route is Sahara; and the road from +Seenawan to Emjessen is two days' journey. After this +you find the small mountains Baârbeeah Aghour. Then +you find Ghadames. There is a day's journey from +Emjessen to Ghadames."</p> + +<p><i>28th.</i>—Early this morning made the tour of the city's +walls and gardens. Went with Said, and myself, alone. +I am fond of being alone, and would sometimes walk +miles over The Desert—the caravans being not even in +sight. This <i>was</i> solitude!</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i10">"I love all waste</span> +<span class="i0">And solitary places; where we taste</span> +<span class="i0">The pleasure of believing what we see</span> +<span class="i0">Is boundless, as we wish our souls to be."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>It occupied us, at a moderate rate of walking, about +an hour and a half, so that the oasis may be about +five miles in circumference. What a scene of hideous +desolation did the environs present—nor tree, nor herb, +nor living creature! Talk of the Poles, there is less life<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-108" id="V1-108"></a>[<a href="images/1-108.png">108</a>]</span> +here! On the west, the groups of sand-hills, which +stretch ten days' journey, were all bright as the light, +and sometimes not visible from brilliancy. Some Touaricks +saw us going, and called after us; we took no +notice of them. The Rais, on my return, asked many +questions, about what I thought of the city, and observed, +"These poor fools think there's no city like +theirs, but what would they think if they saw Stamboul? +Those who have not seen Stamboul have not +seen the world!" The walls of the city of Ghadames, +like the houses, are built mostly of sun-dried bricks, but +parts of small stones and earth. They are in a ruinous +condition, and in many places open to The Desert. +But within these outer walls are garden-walls and winding +paths, so that the approaches to the city are difficult, +except by the southern gate. Formerly, four or five +gates were open, but the Rais has shut them all but this +one for security, as well as facility in collecting the +octroi, or gate-dues.</p> + +<p>The greater part of the camels of our ghafalah left today, +but unladen, there being no Soudan goods now in +Ghadames. These camels belong to The Mountains, +and are hired by the merchants to convey their goods +between this and Tripoli. The ordinary price paid is +two dollars per camel. The weight the camel carries is +from two to three cantars.</p> + +<p>This afternoon had a visit from the Touarick women, +and was astonished to find some of them <i>almost fair</i>. +They were pretty and plump, coquettish and saucy, asking +a thousand questions. It is evident the men are +dark simply from exposure to the sun. I regaled them +with <i>medicine</i> and tea. This party belongs nearly all to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-109" id="V1-109"></a>[<a href="images/1-109.png">109</a>]</span> +Touat. They want to prevail upon me to go with +them. I am almost inclined. Two men, who came +with the women, assured me I should go safe and sound. +I believe I could, provided I go as poor as a beggar, +distributing only medicines. This evening dined again +with the Rais. He is now a little better, and puts his +charms over his eyes, as if the charms cured them, and +not the caustic of nitrate of silver. His Excellency +talked of the affairs of the city; he pretends the antiquity +of Ghadames goes back four thousand years, to +the times of Nimrod and Abraham. The people of the +town, I suppose, have told him so; but where is their +authority? He says of <i>present</i> matters,—"The people +pay 6,000 mahboubs per annum; it is too small a sum +for a city of merchants; there is little money in the +country, it being mostly deposited in the hands of merchants +in Tripoli; he wishes Christians established here, +and a regular souk, or market, opened; the number of +Arab troops which he has here is 120; he is building +barracks and a fondouk at Emjessen, in order to station +troops there to guard the wells, for the banditti come +there and drink water, and then lie in ambush to plunder +caravans." This building of forts at wells is a wise +and efficient measure; the same thing has been done +at the oasis of Derge. The Rais receives his pay <i>direct</i> +from the Sultan of Constantinople; his appointment is +quite uncertain; he is a native of Erzeroum; he took +part in the Turco-English campaign in Syria, served +under General Jochmus, and was acquainted with many +English officers. He has been at Constantinople, +Smyrna, Malta, and many other parts of the Upper +Mediterranean.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-110" id="V1-110"></a>[<a href="images/1-110.png">110</a>]</span></p> + +<p>People complain that the gardens languish for want of +money to cultivate them; not more than half of the +date-trees bear fruit this year, owing entirely to the +want of labour and irrigation. People have to purchase +water. I have seen no birds in the oasis up to this time.</p> + +<p>The greater part of yesterday and to-day occupied in +distributing medicines. Afraid I shall soon finish my +stock. The medicines were furnished by the British +Consul-General of Tripoli, at the expense of Government; +there were only five pounds-sterling worth. +Ramadan begins in a few days; then I shall not have so +many customers. Then the Moors cast physic to the dogs.</p> + +<p><i>29th.</i>—Went this morning to see the Souk. At the +time of my visit there were only a few tomatas, peppers, +a little olive-oil, and some grain, wheat and barley, +exposed for sale. Passed a butcher's, where a whole +camel was killed and cut up. Told in this way it fetches +about thirty shillings. Paid a visit to my runaway +Turjeman, who said he would call upon me this evening.</p> + +<p>Observe the Rais employs, in his administration, all +strangers, either Arabs or Tripolines, or people from +Derge and Seenawan. How true are the principles of +despotism! This is upon the same principle as the +employment of the Swiss at Naples; in both cases the +despotic government cannot trust the people. The Rais +is very busy in collecting the half-yearly tax: he works +with surprising zeal from morning to night—a zeal worthy +of a better cause.</p> + +<p>I am told the nearest route from here to Tunis is <i>viâ</i> +Douwarat (or Duerat), a portion of the Atlas where is +situate Shninnee. This village, scattered over all the +hills, is three days from Ghabs and seven from Ghadames.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-111" id="V1-111"></a>[<a href="images/1-111.png">111</a>]</span> +The Souf Arabs tell me there is no water for seven days +in summer and twelve in winter, on the road they came +from their country to Ghadames, the difference being the +length of days. The well is called Beer-es-Saf, and +sometimes Beer-ej-Jadeed. The route lies entirely +through sand, N.W. This region of sand is the celebrated +hunting-place of the Souf Arabs.</p> + +<p>Dined again with the Rais this evening. His Excellency +complained that the Ghadamsee people show him +scarcely any attention. He never receives the smallest +present, neither a few dates, nor a melon, nor a vegetable; +he buys and is obliged to buy everything<a name="FNa_1-22" id="FNa_1-22"></a><a href="#FoN_1-22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a>. I thought +myself more fortunate than the Rais, for I have received +several little presents from various individuals. His +Excellency says he never punishes the people except for +<i>abusive language</i> to one another, and than he only gives +them twenty or fifty strokes of the bastinado. In this +respect he says, "Ghadames may be compared to Paradise, +there being no crime in it." His Excellency repeated +that the greater number of the resident inhabitants, +who do not travel abroad, spend their time in +reading, writing, and prayer—that, emphatically, this +is <i>a Marabout city</i>.</p> + +<p><i>30th.</i>—Occupied two or three hours this morning in +administering medicine and visiting the sick. My turjeman +came back and apologized; he said the people +were fanatic. Received a visit from Haj-el-Beshir, eldest +son of the Sheikh Makouran. He said his father had +been twice to Timbuctoo, and resident there many years,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-112" id="V1-112"></a>[<a href="images/1-112.png">112</a>]</span> +and would give me some information. The Rais says +there's no Sheikh of the slaves, and adds, "I'm the +Sheikh of the slaves." This again is not correct, as the +people all told me, there must be a headman or Sheikh +of the slaves in all countries. Had a visit from two +young men who were quite free from the prejudices of +their countrymen. They told me to take courage, "that +God was the Maker of Christians as well as Mohammedans, +that in this city no one could do me harm, but +I was not to expose myself to the ignorant." I seem, +indeed, to get on better with the people, their prejudices +apparently are beginning to give way; I shall be able to +open the way for some other person. The father of one +of my young friends has been now twelve years in +Kanou; when he returns he brings a fortune.</p> + +<p>Speaking to the Rais of the Ghadamsee people, I asked +him what they did for soldiers before the Turks came? +He replied, "These people are not soldiers and never +had soldiers; they are like women and children; if any +body came from The Desert to plunder, he stole what he +pleased and was allowed to go away unmolested. They +depended upon God and prayer for their protection. +You see I told you these people were dervishes." Still +there is reason to believe that if they did not fight themselves, +as, at the present time, they got their quondam +but powerful friends, the Touaricks, to fight for them.</p> + +<p>This afternoon saw some doves in the gardens; and +also a small flight of birds hovering over the city, perhaps +there were twenty. These birds were called <i>arnout</i>, +and have very long bills and necks. When the men +leave off working at the wells, they dart down to drink. +The palm-groves are the favourite resort of the doves, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-113" id="V1-113"></a>[<a href="images/1-113.png">113</a>]</span> +poetical as natural. Animals, and especially birds, are +so rare in those regions that every sight of them is +worthy of mention; indeed, these are the first birds I +have seen since I left Tripoli. No meat to be had to-day +in Souk. People usually club together and buy a +whole sheep: they then kill it, and divide it into so +many portions according to the number of purchasers; +so that meat is rarely exposed publicly for sale, and it is +necessary to join these private purchasers. Purchase-money +is always paid down at once and not on delivery. +The meat is never weighed but divided at guess. When +any disagreement takes place lots are drawn for the +division.</p> + +<p>During the four or five days of my residence here, +the weather has been comparatively temperate; at least, +I have not felt the heat excessive. To-day has been +close and cloudy: no sun in the afternoon: wind hot, +<i>ghiblee</i>. I continue to be an object of curiosity amongst +the people, and am followed by troops of boys. A +black from Timbuctoo was astonished at the whiteness +of my skin, and swore I was bewitched. The Ghadamsee +Moors eat sugar like children, and are as much +pleased with a suck of it. The young men carry it +about in little bags to suck. The Rais is sometimes +called <i>Bey</i> by the people and sometimes <i>Sultan</i>, but by +the low people, not the better classes. Here, as elsewhere, +the lower classes are the more servile.</p> + +<p><i>31st.</i>—Went this morning to buy meat, but got some +with great difficulty. Passed some Touaricks, who +showed an excessive arrogance in their manners. They +look upon the Ghadamsee people with great disdain, +considering them as so many sheep which they are to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-114" id="V1-114"></a>[<a href="images/1-114.png">114</a>]</span> +protect from the wolves of The Sahara. Met several of +the merchants I knew at Tripoli. They asked me how +I liked their city, and if better than Tripoli. I always +replied, <i>Haier</i> (better). It is singular that though these +merchants are so enterprising themselves in the interior +of Africa, they cannot conceive of the possibility of a +Christian coming so far from home into The Desert, and +when I tell them I wish to go to Soudan, or Bornou, or +Timbuctoo, they look at me with incredulity and say, +"No, no, you cannot go so far, you will die, or the +people will kill you." They have not the least idea of +the courage and enterprise of European tourists, nor can +they understand their objects. But these their objections +may be founded in jealousy of us Christians.</p> + +<p>The following is a nice neat facsimile specimen of the +writing of a young taleb and Ghadamsee Marabout, one +of the best I have seen in The Desert. It is a bill of sale, +consisting of gold—slaves, male and female—bullocks' +skins—pillow-cases—elephant's teeth—senna—bekhour +(perfume)—camels—sacks—and (I think) household +slaves.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-05.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-05_th.jpg" alt="Facsimile Specimen of the Writing of a Young Taleb" title="Facsimile Specimen of the Writing of a Young Taleb" /></a></p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-115" id="V1-115"></a>[<a href="images/1-115.png">115</a>]</span></p> + +<p>The young taleb showed great consequence and presented +me with the original. He observed that a +metegal of gold is of the value of 33½ Tunisian piastres. +I said, "Will you come to my house and I will show +you an Arabic book (the Bible) containing the religion +of the Jews and Christians?"</p> + +<p><i>The Taleb</i>: "I, I enter the house of an infidel! God +preserve me!"</p> + +<p>"Oh!" I observed, "you are afraid of me and my +books—my books <i>will bite you</i>." Hereupon all the +people present burst into a loud laugh, and the taleb +looked quite crest-fallen.</p> + +<p>Many people blind with one eye, and some with two +eyes, come to me to be cured, but I can do nothing for +them. One poor old man comes every morning. I wash +his eyes with a solution of the Goulard powders. He, +though nearly seventy years of age, still lives in the +hopes of recovering his sight. How faithful a companion +of the unfortunate is hope! The Touaricks use mustard +for bad fingers and hands. They also cut and carve +their backs for blood-letting, and the marks remain for +years upon years. I saw one of them whose back was +scarred and scarified all over.</p> + +<p>This morning visited my turjeman at his house. The +house is a <i>mezzonina</i>, having no ground-floor apartments; +the parlour, or grand room, or hall, was surrounded, to +my surprise, with small apartments, in which three or +four sheep were fattening, as people fatten pigs. The +sheep is with the Ghadamsee people what the pig is with +the Irish, their <i>dii penates</i>. There was also another +story above this, the sleeping-room; and then on the +terrace, or flat roof, are other little rooms. All the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-116" id="V1-116"></a>[<a href="images/1-116.png">116</a>]</span> +apartments were exceedingly small, but their situation +high. Stone stairs lead from one room to another. +The turjeman told me all the houses were built in the +same manner, but some larger. Indeed some houses are +four stories high, besides the terrace. The lower rooms +are mostly used as magazines. As soon as I ascended +the staircase, the wife of the turjeman pretended to take +fright, and hid herself in a private apartment. At +another time when I called, and her husband was absent, +she came out to see me, and collected all the women in +two or three neighbours' houses to see The Christian. +It is the husband the woman of Africa is frightened at, +and not the stranger. The tyranny of men over the sex +of feebler bodily frame is co-extensive with the population +of the world. It is the same in Paris, in London, +Calcutta, and The Desert. But the principle of women-seeing +in Ghadames and all North Africa is simply this: +"If the woman is poor, or the husband poor, she may +be seen; if rich, she cannot be seen." A pretty woman +will, however, always try to let you see her face if she +can.</p> + +<p>There is a very good-natured black dervish always +about the streets, but clean and well-dressed. Ordinarily +amongst these saints filth and piety go hand in hand. +They abhor the proverb of cleanliness being next to godliness. +The poor fellow is very fond of me, is running in +and out of my house all day long. I always shake +hands with him when I meet him. The Moors approve +my conduct and say: "Ah, Yâkob, he's a saint." Once +the cunning fellow, when he noticed a lot of half-caste +women anxious to see me, took hold of my head and +turned me completely round to show my face to them.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-117" id="V1-117"></a>[<a href="images/1-117.png">117</a>]</span> +He has some sense, good simpleton, and is without +malice; consequently a great favourite with the people. +A pity all madmen were not like this poor dervish. Yet +how many would be as harmless and beloved as he if +they were not confined, and caged, and chained, in civilized +and Christian madhouses! The dog knows I'm a +<i>kafer</i>, and said to my camel-driver, the day of my arrival, +"Why did you bring the Christian to our holy city?" +chiding him.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we went to see the Touaricks "play +with camels"—‮يلعبوا مع الجمل‬—that is, perform a sort of +camel-race. Strange coincidence of civilized and barbarian +life! This was the Epsom and Ascot of The +Desert. But I was never more disappointed. All that +the Touaricks did with their camels was, they dressed +them out most fantastically with various coloured leather +harness, that is to say, the withers, neck, and head; they +reined them up tightly like blood-horses; and then rode +them a full trot in couples. This was the whole of the +grand play with camels. Some, however, would not fall +into this trot of couples, and grumbled terrifically. The +<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Touraricks'">Touaricks</ins> who rode these restive camels were saluted +by the spectators with loud laughter, the effect of which +was painted sullenly in their faces. I never saw men +look so <i>couldn't help it</i> like. One of them was a young +Touarick who had been saucy to me. I was not displeased +to see him in this <i>triste</i> position. The camels +were the genuine Maharee, of course; the Touaricks have +no other camels. The men were dressed out also in their +gayest barbaric finery. A tent was dressed up, around +which squatted a group of Desert jockies, with their fierce +spears bristling above in the sun before them, like the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-118" id="V1-118"></a>[<a href="images/1-118.png">118</a>]</span> +lords of creation. Even a banner floated gaily in the +bright sun from the tent top. A great concourse of +Ghadamsee spectators were present, one of whom swore +to me that a Maharee once passed from Ghadames to +Tripoli <span class="smcap">in one day</span>, but that the rider died instantly +from exhaustion, on his arrival. Another Maharee outstripped +the wind, but as it was a strong cold wind, the +animal died when it got into hot atmosphere, to which +the tempest was driving.</p> + +<p>Had a long conversation with a Touarick about a +journey to Timbuctoo. I offered him five hundred dollars +to escort me; but, to deposit the money in the hands of +the Governor of Ghadames, or a respectable merchant, +till my and his safe return. Said I would take nothing +with me but medicines, and a little provision, and go in +<i>formâ pauperis</i>, as a dervish or doctor. All the Ghadamsee +people present approved this way of going, and admired +its wisdom, as removing all temptation to attack me, or +to steal anything from me when I had nothing to steal. +But the Touarick could not come up to the scratch, and +was frightened to take upon himself the responsibility, +observing, "You are a Christian; the people of Timbuctoo +will kill you unless you confess Mahomet to be the +prophet of God."</p> + +<p>Dined this evening with the Rais. His Excellency +said: "Formerly, when Ghadames was governed by the +Moorish Bashaws, the people paid little or nothing. +There are but three or four rich persons now here, the +rest are poor, or have only a few mahboubs to carry on a +petty trade." At night, the streets are enveloped in +pitch darkness, whether the moon be up or not. I +endeavoured to persuade the Rais to make the people<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-119" id="V1-119"></a>[<a href="images/1-119.png">119</a>]</span> +light up the town with a few lamps, having oil enough +in them to last till midnight. "Good," he observed, +"but the people say it was always so, and it must be so +still. What can I do?" There are no coffee-houses in +Ghadames; people drink coffee inside their houses. I +threatened the merchants to set up Said as a <i>kahwagee</i>, +(coffee-house keeper). They laughed, and said, "None +will buy." For conversation people collect in groups round +shops, in the <i>Souk</i>, or in little squares near the mosques, +where there are many stone benches for reclining on, or +in some quiet dark nook and corner, where, when you +expect to find no one, you fall foul of a retired circle +of gossips, squatting down in utter darkness. These +Saharan streets are veritable catacombs.</p> + +<p><i>1st September.</i>—This morning, wonderful! It broke +with a few drops of rain; to me most pleasant, and welcomed +as falling pearls of nectar. At noon the sky +became as dry and inflamed as ever. Went to the +Spring early to bathe. Found it surrounded with women, +nearly all half-castes and female slaves. They pretended +to be in a great fright, as all were washing and dabbling +in the water. I came away. A man said, "The Christian +must not go to the well in the morning, but only +in the evening." There seems to be a tacit understanding, +that from day-break to a couple of hours afterwards, +the women shall have possession of the well, for purification +purposes, according to the rites of religion.</p> + +<p>This morning took coffee with the Rais; as no one +was present, he began talking politics. "By a little +and a little," he said, "we shall take possession of Ghat. +We can't do it by force, it would require some thousand +men to take it by arms. The Touaricks are all robbers<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-120" id="V1-120"></a>[<a href="images/1-120.png">120</a>]</span> +and devils." I asked him if he would not like to occupy +Touat. He replied, "No, there's another Sultan there, +and another people. There are two Sultans in the world, +one in the East and one in the West (<i>Muley-Abd-Errahman</i>). +Ghat we might take. At Touat we are too near +the French, and might quarrel with them. All the +freebooters come from Tunis. The Bey has no power or +authority over the Arabs there. His government is bad; +he's a madman. Our Pasha has often written to him +about these freebooters, but it's no use. The English +and the Sultan are one, and always friends, whatever +may be the condition of the rest of the world." Speaking +of me:—"You are mad to think of going to Timbuctoo; +you are sure to have your throat cut."</p> + +<p>I allow all persons, rich and poor, young and old, men +and women, to come and see me. At the same time I +make a distinction between those who are likely to be +useful to me and mere idle intruders. All the Arab +soldiers come, and, in general, though poor and thievish, +they have less of prejudices, and like the English better +than the Ghadamsee people. This city has not yet felt +the benefit of English influence, and interference in +Tripoli, and therefore the merchants have not the same +reasons for being friendly to the English as the Arabs of +The Mountains and the townspeople of Tripoli. All +the Ghadamseeah agree with me, that the camel-playing +of the Touaricks was a failure. Five slaves are leaving +for Tripoli. The poor things complained of having +nothing to eat; I sent Said with some victuals for them. +The people continue to be friendly, and the merchants, +whose acquaintance I made in Tripoli, very much so. +The steward of the Rais has arrived from Tripoli in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-121" id="V1-121"></a>[<a href="images/1-121.png">121</a>]</span> +fourteen days. His whole party consisted of six camels +and five persons. So much for the pretended insecurity +of the route! He is dressed in the Turco-European +costume, like indeed the Rais himself. To-day the +mother of Essnousee, my friend, was bitten by a scorpion. +I administered Goulard solution to the part, and +gave her fever-powder, as she was very hot and her +belly swollen. She died the next day.</p> + +<p>Dined again with the Rais. He says, scorpions are in +great numbers in this city, because it is ancient, and +particularly they abound in the old mosques where the +people do not live or perform domestic matters. "No +person," he added, "is secure from them, and it is all +destined whether we are bitten, and die or not." The +Touarick again assured me that he spoke the truth, he +did not flatter me, by telling me he could take me to +Timbuctoo, when he could not; but yet, if I could make +friends with some respectable merchant of Touat, they +might succeed. A son of the Sheikh Makouran is now +in Timbuctoo. The Sheikh himself gave me a detailed +account of the city; he has been there twice. The old +gentleman, when he had finished his narrative, thought +the time was come for me to assist him. He begged me +to intercede with the British Consul at Tripoli for him, +that he might not be taxed by the Bashaw so much. He +now pays two hundred dollars per annum, assessed taxes. +He assured me that all the money is leaving the country, +and Ghadames will soon be without a para, like the rest +of Tripoli. He told me frankly that he had the idea of +making me a partner in his firm, to get my protection, +but on hearing I was opposed to slave-dealing, it could +not be done, as he and all the merchants were obliged<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-122" id="V1-122"></a>[<a href="images/1-122.png">122</a>]</span> +to deal in slaves. Indeed, the obstacle of English merchants +joining the Tripoline is at present insuperable, on +account of the slave traffic; if they could unite in one +firm, it would be equally <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'advantangeous'">advantageous</ins> for both parties.</p> + +<p><i>2nd.</i>—Not so many patients this morning. A respectable +Ghadamsee came to me to beg medicine to assist +in conjugal pleasures. I told him to eat, drink, and +take a journey from home for two months.</p> + +<p>Although, according to the Italian almanack, the new +moon is on the 1st, yet as the people have not seen it, +there is no Ramadan, (properly <i>Ramtham</i>.) The Rais +says, after the first ten days' keeping the fast it is not +difficult, but, during this period, the adult Mussulmans +suffer exceedingly. Afraid I shall find them all ill-natured +during the fast. Besides, they can't stomach +seeing Infidels eat, whilst they the Faithful fast.</p> + +<p>Supped with the Rais. His fowl flew away, and left +him without meat for supper. "<i>Maktoub</i>," he said, +laughing. The Mussulmans are extravagantly fond of +rice, but they never prepare it in that nice delicious way in +which we do, with milk, or in rice pudding. It is always +covered with fat, and soon surfeits one. His Excellency +and his servants played practical jokes on the black dervish. +First, they bastinadoed the dervish, and then he bastinadoed +the Rais's servants. But the dervish did it +in reality, and so effectually, that after two or three +strokes, they jumped up, for he laid it on under all the +force of his witless revenge. When in a passion, or +excited, he speaks his native lingo of Soudan, but when +cool he speaks Arabic and Ghadamsee. He became +mad, <i>en route</i>, by grief in being ravished from his<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-123" id="V1-123"></a>[<a href="images/1-123.png">123</a>]</span> +country. These practical jokes were played off under +the sanction of his Excellency, before all the people in +the streets.</p> + +<p>The prevalent diseases at this season, are diarrhœa and +ophthalmia, with occasional cases of fever. The diarrhœa +arises from the people's eating unripe or bad fruit, particularly +melons, the ophthalmia from frequent exposure +to the sun during the past hot months. The camel-drivers +also bring it into the city, and it is so propagated by infection. +One of my patients is dead, a little boy, afflicted +with diarrhœa for three months. His father, in relating +his death to me, spoke with a resignation which might +be imitated, but could not be surpassed by a Christian. +It is amazing how the thought of all-powerful and resistless +destiny calms the mind, and tones it down to a +speechless patience! My stock of drugs is fast going. +It consisted originally of worm-powders, emetics (of +which the Arabs and Moors are very fond), fever +powders, purgative pills, Epsom salts, compound opium +pills, Goulard powders, eye powders, sulphate of quinine +pills, and solution of nitrate of silver. They were made +up by Dr. Dickson, of Tripoli. I was surprised to find +nothing for pectoral complaints. Many persons here +are troubled with chronic diseases of this sort. Although +administering medicines these eight days to some fifty +persons or more, not one of them has offered me anything +in turn. There are no guinea or five-guinea fees +here. On the contrary, some have asked me for sugar +and money before they could be persuaded to take the +medicine. Such is the consolation of doing good. +Verily the philosopher had it when he said, "Virtue +must be loved for its own sake." Here I may mention<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-124" id="V1-124"></a>[<a href="images/1-124.png">124</a>]</span> +that the Commandant Omer of our caravan got into a +great passion because I would not buy him a pair of +shoes, and left for The Mountains, without coming to bid +me good bye. He had had coffee and tea, and provisions +always with me, <i>en route</i>, and I thought this +enough. Unless the last favour or request is granted, all +former favours are counted nothing.</p> + +<p><i>3rd.</i>—The morning opens cool and pleasant, and the +heat begins gradually to leave us. People expect rain in +ten days.</p> + +<p>Another Touarick has come forward to offer to conduct +me to Timbuctoo. He says now is the time to go, +when it is hot the banditti do not infest the routes, for +they find no water to drink. He offers to take me for +five hundred dollars, which is to be deposited in the +hands of the Sheikh Makouran, and is not to be paid +until our safe return. He will allow me to stop a month +or six weeks in the city of Timbuctoo. The distances of +routes which he gives me, are the same as those on +M. Carette's map, attached to his brochure on the commerce +of The Desert. Of all the French writers who +have recently written on Africa, M. Carette is most +correct. Wrote down a vocabulary of Ghadamsee words +from my turjeman's dictation. Whilst I was lamenting +the little gratitude, or rather none, which the people +showed for my medicines, an old man, to whose mother-in-law +(he having married a woman forty years younger +than himself, frequently the case here,) I gave some +pills, brought me a melon, and said he should bring +also some dates. I was conversing with a group +at the time, and I took the opportunity of observing +that doctors were paid amongst us. An upstart<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-125" id="V1-125"></a>[<a href="images/1-125.png">125</a>]</span> +man angrily replied:—"Yes, but we are the chosen +people of God! you Infidels are bound to serve us in +every way, and ought to be thankful that you are so +honoured as to be the servants and slaves of The Moumeneen. +You think you are clever, but your talents +are not your own; your knowledge comes from God." +These affronting words contain a common fanatic sentiment +of Barbary. I made no reply.</p> + +<p>Went at noon to visit the Arab suburb, and was a +great curiosity amongst the women and children. Some +of the little girls were frightened out of their wits, but +the boys took up stones to pelt me. The suburb contains +about five hundred souls; the houses are all miserable, +and the people poor. A genuine Ghadamsee +would not live here without being degraded: it is the +St. Giles of the city. Went into a house, the walls of +which were completely concealed beneath the covers for +dishes and meats, bowls and calabashes, the greater part +brought from Soudan. The people were dealers in +them. Talking with the Rais about Soudan, he displayed +the usual ignorance of Mussulmans, even in The +Desert, of this country. It would take a person five +years to travel through that vast country, many parts of +which were populated by cannibals. We read of the +Lemlems, Lamlams, and the Yemyems, as cannibals, +somewhere in the neighbourhood of Zegzeg and Yakobah; +but after conversing with several of the merchants +who have scoured Soudan and Bornou, I have not found +one who has seen these terrible cannibals. They have +all <i>heard</i> of them. It appears to me to be an ancient +tale of wonder to adorn the narratives of travellers.</p> + +<p>This evening being that previous to the Ramadan, a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-126" id="V1-126"></a>[<a href="images/1-126.png">126</a>]</span> +great outcry was made to see the moon. According to +my Italian almanack it should be three days' old, the +geographical position of the two countries may make a +difference as to a sight of it. There is a little display of +firing off pistols, chiefly by boys. A vast number of +persons question me, as to whether I shall fast (<i>soum</i>) +to-morrow; and a Touarick goes bolt up to the Governor, +and says, to his Excellency, pointing to where I am +sitting,—"Does this (man) fast?" His Excellency +shakes his head and laughs gravely. To questions put +direct to me, I answer, "a little." A boy says to me, +"Why, how now, every body fasts, and you don't fast!" +It is, however, prudent to avoid all these questions. I +told some more liberal:—"The English eat and drink at +all seasons that which is good; but some Christian +nations occasionally fast." According to the Moslemite +rite here observed, all under <i>thirteen</i> may eat during +the Ramadan; but, other authorities tell me, all under +<i>eight</i>. Those who travel are excused for the time being. +The fast endures thirty days. Another patient brought +me a few dates. In time I may alter my opinion of +Ghadamsee gratitude. Some new patients, nearly all +ophthalmia and diarrhœa.</p> + +<p>Visited to-day the two wells, which serve a portion of +the population, in addition to the great spring. It is +surprising what an interest I take in water. It is to +me like precious gold, and the most fine gold. One of +these wells has better water than the central running +spring. They are large wells, but do not run like the +great spring: they are also only a little warm. In the +winter they rise higher, showing some connexion with +the rainy season in the <i>rainy</i> region. Two men were<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-127" id="V1-127"></a>[<a href="images/1-127.png">127</a>]</span> +employed in drawing water in a curious manner. The +other buckets were not being worked. One end of the +shaft is made very heavy, so as to assist in bringing up +the water by over-balancing on a swivel; the other end, +to which the cord and bucket is attached, is correspondingly +light.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-06.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-06_th.jpg" alt="Manner of drawing Water from Wells" title="Manner of drawing Water from Wells" /></a></p> + +<p>The houses of Ghadamsee are one, two, three, four, and +even five stories high; the greater part three or four stories. +The architecture is ordinarily Moorish, with some Saharan +fantastic peculiarities. The public buildings offer nothing +remarkable; even the mosques, in a place so devoted to +religion, have no pretty minarets. There are four large +mosques, viz.: Jemâ Kebir,—Tinghaseen,—Yerasen,—Eloweenah; +and many smaller mosques and sanctuaries. +The streets are all covered in and dark, (a peculiarity +prevailing in many Saharan cities,) with here and there +open spaces or little squares, of which there are several +to let in the light of heaven. They are small and nar<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-128" id="V1-128"></a>[<a href="images/1-128.png">128</a>]</span>row, +and winding, not more than a couple of camels can +pass abreast, the ceiling however being high enough to +admit the entrance of the tall Maharee camel. A camel +of this species entered to-day: it amazed me by its stupendous +height; a person of average size might have +walked under its belly. The principal streets and +squares are lined with stone-benches, on which the +people loungingly recline or stretch themselves. Both +houses and streets are admirably adapted for the climate, +protecting the inhabitants alike from the fiery glare of +the summer's sun, and the keen blasts of the winter's +cold. Before the Rais Mustapha's appointment, the city +had, besides smaller and inner gates, four principal ones, +viz., Bab-el-Manderah, Bab-esh-Shydah, Bab-el-Mishrah, +and Bab-el-Bur ("gate of the country"), all of which, +except the last on the south-west, are now closed, with +respect to the entrance of goods and camels. The city is +situate on the south-east side of the plantations of palms +and gardens, not in the central part of the oasis. I +asked the talebs the meaning of some of the names of +the gates, but they could not tell. Many proper names of +places and persons, amongst them as with us, have now +no assignable meaning or derivation.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-20" id="FoN_1-20"></a><a href="#FNa_1-20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> Here we find The Sahara called <i>fertile</i> land; and, in fact, many +parts of The Desert could be cultivated.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-21" id="FoN_1-21"></a><a href="#FNa_1-21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> See Surat <span class="smcap">l</span>iii., entitled "The Star."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-22" id="FoN_1-22"></a><a href="#FNa_1-22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> This complaint is not well founded, for afterwards I saw the +Rais often receive presents of fruit, tobacco, sugar, and even wearing +apparel.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-129" id="V1-129"></a>[<a href="images/1-129.png">129</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<h3>THE FAST OF THE RAMADAN.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Deathly stillness of the City on first morning of the Ramadan.—Rais +weighing Gold.—The Gold Country.—Use of different Arabic +terms in different Countries.—Insecurity of Merchants in The +Desert.—Jews on the borders of The Sahara.—Sin not to +Marry.—Wood in The Sahara.—Rais, a Marabout.—Sheikh of +Slaves.—Complaints of the People to me.—Mr. Frederick Warrington.—M. +Carette's <i>brochure</i> on Saharan Commerce.—Trait +of Tolerance.—Growing reputation of Said.—Preach anti-Slavery +Doctrines in the Street of Slaves.—Ignorance of the People +on Geography.—Talismans in Africa.—The Queen of England's +Physic.—Rais's Desert Politics.—Increase of Patients.—Gradual +method of obtaining Information.—Visit from a Touarick.—Tripoline +Merchants have the Money of those in Ghadames.—Indifference +of Mussulmans in reading The Bible.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>4th.</i>—<span class="smcap">Walked</span> out this morning and found no one in +the streets; every body was still in bed, or shut up in +their houses, being the first day of the Ramadan. A +paralysis of death seemed to have stricken the city. +Had no morning patients for the same reason. Afterwards, +the servants of the Rais came to visit me and +found me taking coffee; they gaped with full (empty?) +open mouths, as if wondering I was not choked. I +asked them if the Rais would take his tea. "It's unlawful," +they screamed, and ran away as if Old Nick were +after them. Usually make tea for the Governor every +morning, which I send him in a glass, and sometimes +also for the Sheikh Makouran. I could not help thanking +God that I was born a Protestant, and professed a +religion not in violence to the physical requirements of +human nature, nor in contradiction to the plain sense of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-130" id="V1-130"></a>[<a href="images/1-130.png">130</a>]</span> +mankind. Man has evils enough to contend with, and +to war against, without inflicting new and additional evils +upon himself, like this most health-trying and health-destroying +Ramadan. My turjeman confessed every +body was mad in Ramadan. Whatever becomes of me +in the deserts of Africa, I hope I shall have force of +mind enough to maintain my religion intact.</p> + +<p>I amused myself with thinking how the Desert-travelling +might be considerably shortened. This could be +effected by joining camels with horses through the routes. +Horses could come easily from Tripoli to The Mountains +in two days. The camels could undertake the journey +from The Mountains to Seenawan in three or four days. +Horses then could again accomplish the rest in two days. +In all, <i>seven</i> days. Were Europeans in possession of +this country, horses and mules would soon take the place +of camels, for all quick travelling. Putting aside horses, +by the use of the <i>maharee</i>, or fleet-camel, the journey +for post could be reduced nearly half. All the Moors +and Arabs dissuade me against going to Timbuctoo, +assuring me that the Touaricks will cut my throat; but +I begin to feel my opinion changing as to the Touaricks. +I am sure, if a friend can be made of a brave man of +this nation, there is no danger. Am glad, however, +people manifest some sympathy with my travelling projects; +what I want to do is, to effect some real discovery, +or do something great in Africa. Ghadames is not +enough, nor even Bornou; it is, must be, Timbuctoo. +Yet a man must not put his head into the fire and then +call upon God to quench the flames. Met Sheikh Makouran +in the street, and brought him home to my house +in order that he might give me a more detailed account<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-131" id="V1-131"></a>[<a href="images/1-131.png">131</a>]</span> +of the finances of Ghadames. Notwithstanding that +the Turks overturn and ruin commerce by restrictions, +they poorly protect the merchants. The Sheikh complained +to me of several losses. During the last two +years four ghafalahs had been plundered on different +routes, by which he lost considerable sums. Other merchants +lost property in proportion. He considered +Ghadames, from various causes, fast approaching its +ruin. Our conversation then turned to the New World, +America. He was quite astonished at my description +of it, and asked if any Mohammedans were there. We +then came to the traffic in slaves. He did not see why +men should not be sold like camels and asses, if such +was the law of God. "All," he observed, "depended +upon the will of the Creator of all beings."</p> + +<p>The Rais is a very religious man, and I'm cautious +what I say. At noon, paid him a visit, and said, "Why, +all the people are dead to day." He replied, "It's only +for one day." I never saw a poor devil look so comfortless. +He is an inveterate, eternal smoker, like all +who boast to be of the same nation as the Imperial +Osmanlis, the pipe is never out of his mouth; he therefore +suffers more than any person in Ghadames. He +was still busy, or affected to be, to kill time, weighing +gold with his servants. I said, "Is there much gold in +the country?" "Less and less every year," was the +reply. Many caravans go by way of Mourzuk, not +coming this way. The servant held up the little bags, +showing that the gold, not more than two or three +ounces, belonged to <i>four</i> persons. When gold is brought +over The Desert, it is tied up in little dirty filthy bits +of rags, first twisted round where it opens, and then<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-132" id="V1-132"></a>[<a href="images/1-132.png">132</a>]</span> +tied. These are carried on the person, in the bosom or +the turban.</p> + +<p>When a caravan is attacked and the people rifled, all +these little bags of rags, whether containing gold, or salt, +pepper, essences, or what not, are scrupulously cut open +by the brigands. The gold brought to Ghadames consists +chiefly of women's ear-rings, hoop and drop ear-rings. +Some of the drops are hollow and contain little +matters which rattle, and perfumed with small quantities +of atar, or of zebed, (civet). The workmanship is rude +and clumsy, but the gold is of the finest quality, though +small and unpolished, something as the Malta gold is +worked. The Rais collects the gold from those who +cannot pay in the current coin. The gold country of +the merchants is not very distinctly understood by them. +Some say it is <i>fouk</i>, "above," Timbuctoo, others beyond +Jinnee and Bambara, about three months from Timbuctoo, +in a south-west direction. The country is called +Mellee, which includes many large districts and provinces, +but the particular district is <i>Furra</i>. This is a flat and +sandy place, "not a stone," say the merchants, "is to +be seen." The mines of Furra, if such they may be +called, are sold by auction, and the lot of land is a lot +of fortune, some plots producing nothing, others gold in +abundance. When the gold arrives at Timbuctoo, it is +converted into women's ornaments, mostly ear-rings. I +have seen very few bags of gold-dust or bars. There are +no camel-caravans from Timbuctoo to Mellee and Furra; +people go in small parties on horses and asses; some go +alone on foot. Foot-travelling is very common in Central +Africa; and these pedestrian merchants or pedlars will +make journeys of three and four months. A merchant<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-133" id="V1-133"></a>[<a href="images/1-133.png">133</a>]</span> +is obliged to remain some time before he can buy up any +quantity of gold; it is brought in such small quantities, +and the trade in gold is declining, and has been so for +twenty years past. It is probable the merchants take +more of it now to the western coast and its European +factories. Certainly that route is safer than bringing it +north, over several months' journey of Desert.</p> + +<p>The Rais is a most diligent servant of Government. +One cannot help observing, however, that the whole +scope and end of governing with the Osmanlis is—<i>money</i>. +Of the people, their protection and improvement, +they rarely ever think. As the Rais is now busy +in making every body book up, some people asked me if +there was much money in Tripoli? I told them I did +not think there was any money left. "The Pasha has +plenty," cried one. I took the trouble of explaining the +new system, that each functionary had a salary, granted +by the Sultan, from the highest to the lowest, and the +Deftadar, after paying each his salary, sent the rest of +the money to Constantinople, where (as the Rais himself +said) it was "poured away as water." Perhaps this +was speaking too freely, but the Moslemites at times +speak uncommonly free and bold for despotic governments. +The Bey of Tunis has often been menaced with +hell-fire by the Arabs, when they pleaded before him in +the hall of judgment, swearing, that if he did not deal +to them justice, God would deal to him vengeance.</p> + +<p>The use of different terms is very curious in travelling +through North Africa, and each country has its peculiar +Arabic word, the words being all more or less classical. +Perhaps no word is so much used in Ghadames and The +Mountains as the epithet <i>batel</i>—‮باطل‬—"vain, useless,"<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-134" id="V1-134"></a>[<a href="images/1-134.png">134</a>]</span> +&c., and really answers in its use to something like our +tremendous "Humbug." It especially denotes everything +bad, false, and wrong, in any matter and in any +body. On the contrary, for the opposite epithet, various +terms are used, "<i>maleah</i>," "tayeb," and "<i>zain</i>," which +latter term always means pretty, as well as good. The +polite Ghadamseeah are very fond of <i>zain</i>; but it should +properly apply to pretty women. The people use the +term ‮شهر‬ "month," for moon, instead of <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads '‮قم‬'">‮قمر‬</ins>. The ‮ق‬ +is not distinguished in pronunciation from ‮غ‬, and I have +not attempted it in writing. Indeed, I shall avoid as +much as possible distinctions which the generality of +readers cannot understand.</p> + +<p>Only one of my patients came to-day, the little blind +boy. The Rais sent me in the evening a fine dish and +soup, on occasion of the night of the first day's fasting. +The people kept to-night as an <i>âyed</i> or feast. A Touarick +took Said, my servant, aside, and whispered mysteriously +in his ear,—"Has the Christian fasted to-day?" +Speaking to a liberal Moor, I told him the fast was +<i>bătāl</i>, inasmuch as the Mussulmans ate all night and +slept the greater portion of the day, making things equal; +that to fast really, as some Christians did, was to eat +nothing, night or day. At the time I added, "I am +not such a fool as to increase the miseries of this life by +fasting when I can get anything to eat." The fellow, +laughing, observed, "You English are right." I see the +fast is nearly universal, old and young, rich and poor, +high and low, all fast. They mix with it strong religious +feelings, and I dare say fanaticism, a quality rarely +apart from the purest religious sentiment. Still continue +our conversations on Timbuctoo. Most of the old respect<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-135" id="V1-135"></a>[<a href="images/1-135.png">135</a>]</span>able +merchants have been to Timbuctoo. One of them, Haj +Mansour, resided there fourteen years, carrying on a +prosperous trade. But so perverse and unstable are +human affairs, that, on returning home after so long an +exile, with thirty camels laden with the riches of the +interior, and with much fine gold, and whilst within a +few days of Touat, the banditti of The Desert fell upon +him and carried off everything, not leaving a water-skin +to quench his thirst! Had he not been near Touat, he +would have perished in The Desert. The Haj is quite +black, though his features are not Negro. He is now an +old gentleman of upwards of seventy, and yet very +active. His family is immense; what with women, and +girls, and sons, and grandsons, it musters some thirty +souls. He told me with bitterness, as if it had been +the case with himself, the merchants were often their +own enemies, they were so parsimonious that they would +not hire a sufficient escort of Touaricks, and so left +defenceless in The Desert many were plundered and +ruined irretrievably. The greatest misfortune in travelling +through the country of the Touaricks is, their chiefs +have not sufficient power to control the people, and for +whose actions they will not always be responsible. One +day you may meet with the best of men amongst the +Touaricks, the next day with a band of robbers; such +is the uncertainty and insecurity of The Desert.</p> + +<p><i>5th.</i>—It would be a good project at least, and might +be attended with incalculable benefit, in promoting +Christianity and civilization in Africa, were portions of +The Scriptures translated into Touarick, with the native +Touarick characters. Their vanity would be so exceedingly +excited that it would be almost impossible for them<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-136" id="V1-136"></a>[<a href="images/1-136.png">136</a>]</span> +to refuse reading a book written in their own dear characters. +All can read their own characters, but very +few the Arabic. It is not a little surprising, if I am to +believe what I hear, that the Touaricks, with all their +savage boldness—whose home is The Desert—will not +venture on a journey to Tripoli. Many, many times have +they been persuaded and pressed by the coast merchants, +but they have always set their faces against the journey. +Perhaps they think (as some, indeed, hinted to me) the +Pasha would keep them prisoners, and not let them +return until they had delivered up some of their districts +to his authority. Whatever the motive, it is strange +that men, who wander through all parts of Central +Africa, cannot be prevailed upon to visit Tripoli. I +have heard but of one exception.</p> + +<p>It is pleasant to witness the least sign of improvement +in a people who are commonly condemned by their own +habits, their religion, and the opinions of Europeans, to +a retrograde or eternally stationary existence. I was +much pleased to observe in one of the small squares of +the city a tree recently planted, (the <i>tout</i><a name="FNa_1-23" id="FNa_1-23"></a><a href="#FoN_1-23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a>, a species of +small white mulberry,) which promises to afford not only +a grateful shade to repose under in summer's burning +heat, but is in itself a pretty ornament. The great fault +of the Africans is want of forethought, or impatience of +the future. Their maxim is, to enjoy the present, to +take no thought for the morrow, but let the morrow +provide for itself. Like all rude and unlettered people, +the precepts of religion are interpreted in their strictest +literality. To-day, I find more people in the streets,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-137" id="V1-137"></a>[<a href="images/1-137.png">137</a>]</span> +and the Ramadan is not so visible in their faces as I +expected it would be. The fact is, the generality of the +Saharan inhabitants, and especially the poor Arabs eat +but once, or make but one meal a day, and this in the +evening; so, in reality, as far as eating is concerned, the +Ramadan is no Ramadan with them. Saw the Rais, +he is better than yesterday. His Excellency called me +a simpleton for talking with the Touaricks about going +to Timbuctoo; nevertheless, I feel as if I should like to +go the whole-hog—Timbuctoo, or nothing. The future +will tell! His Excellency, however, observed, that the +Touaricks of Touat had nearly destroyed all the +banditti on the route of Timbuctoo. It is the interest +of the Touaricks to keep the routes free that they +may have the advantage of the visits and escorting of +caravans.</p> + +<p>One of the peculiarities of Ghadames is that there is +no Jew resident in the city. It is strange that a people +of such a commercial genius as the Israelites should never +have had courage to undertake an enterprize over The +Great Desert, whilst they have crept all around it. In +Tunis they are scattered throughout the Jereed; in +Algeria they are established at the oases of Souf and +Mezab; in Morocco we find them at Sous and Wadnoun; +and in Tripoli they are located in nearly every town +of the coast, whilst a few visit The Mountains. But, to the +credit of the Jews and their mercantile genius, it is not +their fault. The fanaticism of the Ghadamsee people +would be strongly opposed to their residence here, more +so than against Christians; it is enough to support the +overbearing Christian <i>kafer</i>, without the pollution of the +weak miserable Jew in their holy city, for the <i>force</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-138" id="V1-138"></a>[<a href="images/1-138.png">138</a>]</span> +principle makes the Mohammedans respect the Christians. +The weak are despised, the strong respected. I +might, however, have made the experiment of bringing a +Jewish servant here: one sadly wanted to come with me. +Still a traveller should not unnecessarily increase his +difficulties, and excite the prejudices of the people +amongst whom he resides, mostly by sufferance. It is +probable also the mercantile jealousy of the people would +be excited against the Jews. Afterwards I learnt that +two <i>Barbary</i> Jews went either to Bornou or Soudan, in +the year 1844, and returned safe. Unfortunately this +species of Jew can add nothing to our stock of geographical +knowledge beyond what we may get from the +Arabs and Moors themselves; his ideas of nature and +science are all the same, with the exception of a few +religious dogmas, and a strong national bias. The visit +of these two Jews to Bornou excited no attention in +Tripoli. Along the line of The Desert the Jews help +commerce. They are great ostrich-feather merchants in +Southern Morocco. Some have said they go to Timbuctoo, +but this report is not authenticated. In Souf +they greatly assist the Arabs in the exchange of their +products. About twenty families are established amongst +the Souāfah, in the greatest security of life and property. +The Jews here dress like the Arabs, and are not easily +distinguishable from them. In most of the interior districts +they have the privilege of dressing like the rest of +the people.</p> + +<p>The Rais is an old bachelor, like myself. He seems +to live very wretchedly without a wife. The good Mussulmans, +who think it a sin to live unmarried, excuse him +because his residence in different parts of the regency<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-139" id="V1-139"></a>[<a href="images/1-139.png">139</a>]</span> +is uncertain, and he tells them he cannot lead about +a wife. The only object of affection of this bachelor is +a parrot, which speaks pure Housa lingo, and is very +angry at the gruff tones of the Touraghee language, +always scolding the Touaricks when they speak.</p> + +<p>My Marabout camel-driver once had an interesting +conversation with me about a plurality of wives:—</p> + +<p>"It is not right to have more wives than one, because +men and women are nearly equally in numbers, and if +one man has two wives another man must go without +even one."</p> + +<p><i>The Marabout.</i>—"Oh, if a man has money, he may +have two, or three, or four?"</p> + +<p>"That is not a good religion which gives four wives to +one man because he has money, and leaves another man +without any because he has no money, or not so much +money as his neighbour."</p> + +<p><i>The Marabout.</i>—"So it is," (as if convinced of the +reasonableness of the thing).</p> + +<p>"Why has such an old man as Sheikh Makouran two +young wives? This is against nature."</p> + +<p><i>The Marabout.</i>—"He plays; his time of work is past."</p> + +<p>I believe this unequal distribution of the women is +a great check on population. It prevails to a greater +extent amongst the Negro tribes. I am not of opinion +that Central Africa is populous. I saw nowhere any +populous districts myself.</p> + +<p>The wood used in the construction of buildings is that +of the date-tree, which, apparently, grows stronger and +tougher with age. Of this all the doors of the houses +and the lighter works are made. Wood for fireing +is brought in from The Sahara, but from a great distance.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-140" id="V1-140"></a>[<a href="images/1-140.png">140</a>]</span> +It is sold for three Tunisian piastres the camel-load. It +is the common brush-wood, underwood, or scrub of The +Desert, and is excessively dry, for withered and dead +trees or shrubs are gathered. In seasons of rain The +Sahara creates this wood quickly, it then perishes for +want of rain. Sometimes wood for building is brought +from Tripoli, <i>i. e.</i>, deal-boards. Our caravan brought +some doors for a mosque, made of deal.</p> + +<p>This evening was a grand celebration of divine worship +in the house of the Rais, and a Marabout chanted +verses from the Koran. His Excellency certainly gains +the respect, if not the affections, of the pious. He is +often said by the people to be a man who "fears God." +I sat near the door listening. A fellow said to me, +"You must sit farther off whilst the people are praying, +it is unlawful to sit where you are." I took no notice of +his impertinence. The Rais sent me yesterday, as the +evening before, a very good supper. Being Ramadan, I +stopped up till midnight talking politics with him. He is +a native of a province, near Circassia, fallen under the iron +rule of Muskou (the Russians). Having been in the Syrian +campaign he was enabled to see the <i>feeding</i> of the +English soldiers and sailors, which quite astonished him. +He observed, "The Emperor of Russia will never have +good troops, he scarcely gives them anything to eat. It +is not surprising they desert to the Circassians." The +Rais has a great dread of the Russians absorbing the +Ottoman empire: it is not an unreasonable dread.</p> + +<p><i>6th.</i>—My turjeman complains that neither he nor the +people can pay their excessive taxes; they must all be +soon ruined. Yet a couple of thousand pounds per +annum is nothing for a commercial city like this. He<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-141" id="V1-141"></a>[<a href="images/1-141.png">141</a>]</span> +says, "If we were to cultivate our gardens, we should +have more; but then the Turks would demand more, so +our spirits are broken, and we are eaten up. We have no +heart to work for our oppressors." Continue to read the +Arabic New Testament, which aids me in colloquial disquisitions +with the people. The Ghadamsee people +persist in not taking medicines during the fast. One +told me, "Even if a man dies, and medicine could save +him, he must not take it." I have therefore fewer patients +during the inexorable Ramadan. But I <i>save</i> my tea and +coffee—"An ill wind blows, &c." The Rais, however, +gets his tea in the evening. It is remarkable with what +willingness, and without any sort of prejudice, several +of the people offer me information. Even when refused, +I always find it arises from indolence to narrate it. They +are not afraid that I am collecting information to supply +the English Government with the means of invading +their country, like some Moors in Barbary. They look +upon the thing just as it is,—that I am writing a book +about their country to amuse Christians.</p> + +<p>The Sheikh of the slaves came in, with several Ghadamsee +youths:—</p> + +<p>"The Governor says, you are not the Sheikh; <i>he</i> is the +Sheikh."</p> + +<p>"So, does he say?"</p> + +<p>(<i>The Youths.</i>—"But the Sheikh <i>is</i> the Sheikh.")</p> + +<p>"I am," says the Sheikh, "from Timbuctoo; all the +people are Mohammedans, and fast. Do you fast?"</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"I eat and drink what is good at all times, even +wild-boar."</p> + +<p><i>The Sheikh and Youths.</i>—"Oh, wonderful!"</p> + +<p><i>They.</i>—"You write Arabic?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-142" id="V1-142"></a>[<a href="images/1-142.png">142</a>]</span></p> + +<p>I wrote that God was <i>one</i>.</p> + +<p><i>They.</i>—"And write Mahomet was the Prophet of +God?"</p> + +<p>I wrote Mahomet was the Prophet of the Arabs and +the Touaricks?</p> + +<p><i>The Sheikh.</i>—"Ah, ah, I see, I see, you're very cunning."</p> + +<p><i>The Youths.</i>—"Who is your Prophet?"</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"Aysa (Jesus)."</p> + +<p><i>The Youths.</i>—"Have you any books of your Prophet?"</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"Yes, here is one:" (Giving them the New Testament.)</p> + +<p><i>They.</i>—"Oh, see, let us read it, let us take it home."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"No; if you were men, yes. But if I allow you +to read it, or read it to you, your Bey and the people +will be offended with me, and send me out of the city. +When you go to Tripoli, you can see and read the Christian +books."</p> + +<p>I was surprised that a well-informed man like the +Sheikh Makouran should ask me whether the Emperor of +Morocco was also Emperor of Fez, and whether Morocco +was a large country. "Ghat," says the Rais, "like all +the Touarick countries, is a republic. All the people +govern." Walked out this evening for the first time to-day. +The people are vehement in their complaints +against the oppressions of the Turks: "All the wealth +of the country is dried up, and the merchants are all +running away. We are ruined unless the English save us."</p> + +<p>It has been very hot and sultry to-day. Not a +breath of air. The sky overcast—a profound, deathlike +tranquillity sleeping over the environs! The Rais sent +supper as usual. After visiting him, he had a fit of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-143" id="V1-143"></a>[<a href="images/1-143.png">143</a>]</span> +writing, and wrote for the courier all night. Thank +God, there are no gnats in Ghadames. I have not seen +nor felt any. It is probably owing to the absence of +<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'water no'">no</ins>no water, stagnating here, all being absorbed in the +dry earth of the gardens.</p> + +<p><i>7th.</i>—Read eight chapters of the Arabic Testament. +Some of the phrases very strangely rendered into +Arabic. The Moors cannot understand them. My +Testament wants some verses: it is the ordinary Arabic +Bible circulated by The Bible Society. There is no +good translation of The Scriptures into Arabic, from +what I have been able to learn. Continue to think +all day long and dream of Timbuctoo. Had a conversation +with the Touaricks about a journey there. The +difficulty is, the strongest Touarick escort practicable +cannot always pass through the Touarick districts, there +being such a great variety of tribes. It is the quarrels +of the Touaricks themselves, and not our not being able +to trust them individually, which renders the route so +dangerous.</p> + +<p>Slave-dealing is so completely engendered in the +minds of the Ghadamsee merchants, that they cannot +conceive how it can be wrong. A young man wrote me +down the objects (very few) of exportation from Soudan, +and in the following order, viz., "Cottons, elephants' +teeth, <i>bekhour</i> (perfume), wax, slaves, bullocks' skins, red +skins, feathers, (of the ostrich)." Human beings are +just summed up with the rest as an article of commerce, +as a matter of course, in the most mercantile +style.</p> + +<p>It will be next to impossible to propagate anti-slavery +notions in Central Africa, supported as slavery is<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-144" id="V1-144"></a>[<a href="images/1-144.png">144</a>]</span> +by commerce and religion. We can only say, "With +God nothing is impossible."</p> + +<p>All the people bring their griefs and malcontentments +to me. It's not so pleasant to be bored by them, let +alone the policy of my listening to all they have to say. +But the ill humour of these poor fleeced people must +have a vent, or <i>sfogo</i>, as the Italians term it, and what +can I do? An intelligent merchant came to me. +"Yâkob, <i>bisslamah</i>, (how do you fare?) The Rais is +always collecting money, don't you see? That's the +business of the Turks. This city is 4000 years of age. +It flourished before Pharaoh, in the time of Nimrod. +Now the Turks come to destroy it; their business is to +destroy; such is the will of God." I might elaborate the +idea. The genius of the Turks is to destroy. The +hand of the Turk blasts as mildew everything it touches; +it has destroyed the fairest portions of the earth. Happily, +however, it so destroys itself, for it is not desirable +for truth and civilization that the sway of the Osmanlis +should be restored to its pristine strength.</p> + +<p>Among the most friendly people to me in Ghadames +are the Arab soldiers. Now, whilst I write, not less +than twenty of these poor fellows are lying around my +door, and in the <i>skeefah</i> (entrance-passage or room) of +my house. They tell me always, my house is their +house, and their mountains my mountains. They all +speak in the highest terms of Mr. Frederick Warrington, +son of Colonel Warrington, whom they call <i>Fredreek</i>. +They consider him as one of themselves, and so he is as +to habits, manners, and language, and frequently dress. +When they quarrel in Tripoli, the ultima ratio, or dernier +ressort, is not to go to the Pasha, but <i>Nimshee lel</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-145" id="V1-145"></a>[<a href="images/1-145.png">145</a>]</span> +<i>Fredreek</i>, "Let us go to Frederick!" This is "the +settler." It has often been said amongst the Consular +corps of Tripoli, that, in case Great Britain thought it +expedient to assume the Protectorate of Tripoli, Frederick +Warrington would be their man, the instrument of +revolution. There is not a single Arab in the Regency +but what would flock to his standard. He has been all +his lifetime in Tripoli.</p> + +<p>M. Carette, in his brochure of the <i>Commerce of Central +Africa</i>, says, "Timbaktou, Kânou, et Noufi sont les trois +marchés principaux du pays des Noirs. Les voyageurs +du Nord ne parlent pas du Niger; c'est une limite qu'ils +ne franchissent pas; ils paraissent n'avoir aucunes relations +avec les populations Mandingues de la rive droite:" +(p. 26). This is inexact. The merchants do speak of the +Niger frequently to me, calling it the <i>Wady Neel</i>, thinking, +and which is a very ancient opinion, that it is a +continuation of the Nile of Egypt. They also visit the +opposite shores or banks of the Mandingoes. Some of +them go to Noufi, as M. Carette admits; on my leaving +for Ghat, a merchant going to Noufi was my fellow +traveller, and promised to accompany me there. Here +Mr. Becroft has recently, from the south-east, ascending +the Niger, shaken hands with the merchants of the +north. An old slave, a native of <i>Sansandee</i> (or <i>Sinsindee</i> +‮سنسندي‬) says of the Niger, "The river is like the sea +of Tripoli and all sweet" (water.)</p> + +<p>The Sheikh Makouran does not approve of my Timbuctoo +ideas. Says the city is always in an uproar with +the Touaricks, who are robbers and not like the Touaricks +of Touat. Walked through the town at noon, and met +Essnousee, had not seen him for some time, and wondered<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-146" id="V1-146"></a>[<a href="images/1-146.png">146</a>]</span> +what had become of him. He was very friendly, and +wanted to bring me lemonade in the street. But as +there was a large concourse of people present, all fasting, +poor devils, at this time of the day; I thought common +decency required me to go with him to his house. I +waited in a dark corner close by his door, and here I +quaffed the forbidden draught in the high-noon of the +Fast. He smiled at me when I finished, and said, "Well +done, Yâkob." He gave me also a fine melon to bring +home with me. I considered this feat of drinking +lemonade, under the circumstance related, a remarkable +trait of tolerance. People usually put into their lemonade +pieces of rag steeped in lemon-juice and dried; +in this way the juice is preserved from evaporation. +Essnousee had just lost his wife. "Have you any other +wives?" I said. "Oh yes," he replied, "one here and +one in Ghat." Many of the merchants, like the roving +tar who has a sweetheart at every port, have a wife at +every city of The Desert and Soudan where they trade. +Several of the children now in Ghadames were born +either in Timbuctoo or Soudan.</p> + +<p><i>8th.</i>—Few patients on account of the Ramadan. +Weather extremely sultry. People bear the fast remarkably +well, and with good humour enough. The Rais +persists in sending me supper though I would rather he +did not. After mass and chanting prayers in the evening, +his Excellency holds a court. He abused the Sultan +of Constantinople and called him an ass for spending his +money like a fool, and this license before all the people! +Smoking, drinking coffee, talking, and writing for the +courier, all together, so his Excellency passes his Ramadan +evenings. Said, my negro servant, is becoming as great<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-147" id="V1-147"></a>[<a href="images/1-147.png">147</a>]</span> +a man as his master in Ghadames. He receives visits +from all the slaves of the city, as well as the free negroes. +Being slaves, I am very indulgent, and sometimes they +stop all day with him. The slaves of the Touaricks also +come. Said manages to talk with them all in all +languages. I see there is a sort of free-masonry amongst +negroes, and they all (which is greatly to their credit) +stick close to one another, and take one another's part. +Said is impatient about his <i>âtka</i>, or freedom ticket. He +said to me to-day—</p> + +<p>"Oh, Sidi, where's my âtka? The people will steal +me and sell me again."</p> + +<p>"No, Said," I replied, "have patience, if they steal +you, they must steal me also."</p> + +<p>Visited with Said to-day "the Street of Slaves." +This is a little dark street appropriated for the rendezvous +of the slaves in my part of the city, where they +enjoy the cool of the evening and chat together. I +squatted down to chat amongst them, which awakened +their curiosity.</p> + +<p>"Who's that naked boy there?"</p> + +<p><i>They.</i>—"The Touaricks brought him from Bornou."</p> + +<p>"What are they going to do with him?"</p> + +<p><i>They.</i>—"The Touaricks will send him to Tripoli, and +sell him; will you buy him?"</p> + +<p>"No, no; if I buy him, my sultan will put me in +prison."</p> + +<p>(<i>They</i>, one to the other.—"Do you believe him?")</p> + +<p>"The English had many slaves, but gave them all +the <i>âtka</i>; and soon, please God, they will destroy slavery +in all the world."<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-148" id="V1-148"></a>[<a href="images/1-148.png">148</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>They.</i>—"Ah, ah," (laughing), "that's right; we wish +to have the <i>âtka</i>."</p> + +<p>I found some were from Soudan, others from Timbuctoo, +the greater part from Bornou. About a score +of them were present; their greatest delight was in +exchanging their various lingos. When they heard I +was going to Kanou, one jumped up like a fury, saying, +"Oh, I must send something to my mother." This was +a poor grey-headed wrinkled-faced old man! His poor +mother, alas! may have been long ago whipped to death +upon the cotton plantations of South Carolina, where +the blood of the slave is poured out to fertilize the fields +of pampered republicans, and give tongue to the braggadocio +of the free sons of the Model-Republic!</p> + +<p>To-day, saw three swallows in a garden for the first +time at Ghadames. They darted over the heads and +through the foliage of the graceful palms, performing +sweet eccentric circles. To me, they were winged messengers +from the fair bowers and silvery brooks of +Paradise.</p> + +<p>To give an idea of the general ignorance of the Ghadamsee +people on European geography, I have only to +record a part of a conversation with them.</p> + +<p><i>They.</i>—"Where's your country; is it near Rome?"</p> + +<p>"No; further to the west and north."</p> + +<p><i>They.</i>—"Did not the English spring from the Arabs?"</p> + +<p>"No; the English are from the north, a colder +country; the Arabs are from a hot country."</p> + +<p><i>They.</i>—"Are the Greeks like the English? and is +their country near yours?"</p> + +<p>"No; they are farther from us than Rome itself."<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-149" id="V1-149"></a>[<a href="images/1-149.png">149</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>They.</i>—"Do the English fast?"</p> + +<p>"Sometimes; but when they fast they don't eat in +the night time, like you; they fast day and night."</p> + +<p><i>They.</i>—"That's not good; that's not right. Do you +fast?"</p> + +<p>"Never, thank God."</p> + +<p>The people bother my life out about fasting. Two +young Touarick women came to me—</p> + +<p>"Thou Christian! dost thou fast?" (they having never +seen a person before who did not fast).</p> + +<p>"No; the Christians don't fast."</p> + +<p><i>The girls.</i>—"Don't the Christians know God?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, they know God."</p> + +<p><i>The girls.</i>—"No, they don't, for they don't say Mahomet +is the prophet of God."</p> + +<p>The sum of religion amongst many of the wild tribes, +is the formula of Mahomet being the prophet of God—fasting +and circumcision. Many of the Touaricks, however, +will not fast, or fast with difficulty, it involving the +cessation of smoking, of which they are passionately fond. +A Touarick, who was accustomed to visit Mr. Gagliuffi +at Mourzuk, ridiculed the Ramadan, and called those +who fasted, fools. He would squat down in Mr. Gagliuffi's +house, and take out his pipe at midday, and say, +"Come, Consul, let's have a <i>drink</i> of the pipe. These +people who fast all day are asses." Other Touaricks, +more scrupulous, always set out on a journey during +Ramadan, in order to have the relaxation permitted by +the law.</p> + +<p>The Rais is deeply engaged in petty finance, some +quite mites, to make up the accounts for Tripoli. Whilst +seated near his Excellency, a big lout of a fellow was<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-150" id="V1-150"></a>[<a href="images/1-150.png">150</a>]</span> +brought up, charged with beating a little urchin, who +was present to substantiate the charge. The Rais, after +gravely hearing the case, had the big clown turned round +with his hands tied behind him, and then told the little +rogue aggrieved to lay it into him as hard as he could +with his fists clenched. The little imp, who looked as +wicked as imp could be, instantly gave the broad back +of the great fellow half a dozen strokes. Hereupon all +the bystanders, and the officers of his Excellency, burst +into a fit of tremendous laughter, and the big coward +was allowed to escape, sneaking off like a dog with his +tail between his legs. The Rais came up to me smiling +with great self-complacency, and said—"Well, isn't that +the way to administer justice?" I then astonished the +hangers-on of his Excellency's Court, by relating to them +some account of the expeditions to the North Pole. +They asked me whether any Mussulmans were there, +and how they could fast when the sun did not set? +Several said I merely invented the account to amuse +them. In this case, and also in that of the precepts of +the Mosaic Institute, we see the inconvenience of making +the precepts of religion depend on local and physical +circumstances.</p> + +<p>I have seen little urchins in Italy, before the flaming +wax-light altars, drink in with their mother's milk the +virus of Popery, but I never witnessed a stronger case of +infantile prejudice than to-day. A child of less than +three years old came running out of a by-street (apparently +no person being near it), and called after me, +<i>Kafer, kafer</i>, "Infidel, infidel"! and spat at me in the +bargain like a little toad.</p> + +<p>Noon.—I met with a fellow, a sort of swaggering<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-151" id="V1-151"></a>[<a href="images/1-151.png">151</a>]</span> +cheap-jack penny-a-liner, who swore that there was no +man so learned as himself in all Ghadames, and that +he would teach me the history of Ghadames, and all +the world, <i>for money</i>. He then followed me home, +asked me for my journal, and wrote in it five lines of +Arabic poetry. Meanwhile I poured him out a cup of +tea, putting a large lump of sugar in it. When he +had finished his five lines, which he did without being +asked, he impudently demanded a dollar for his trouble. +I told some Arabs who were present to turn him out of +the house. He decamped, but not before giving us his +blessing—"The curse of God be upon you Arab dogs, +and the Christian dog."</p> + +<p>Awfully hot to-day. The hottest day since my residence +in Ghadames. Yet, strange to say, when shut up +in my room, I feel very little of it. My house is only +one story high; there is only a single roof between me +and this sun of fire—a strong proof of how little is +necessary to protect you from the heats of The Sahara. +Late at night, when sitting with the Rais, he amused me +with pulling off his greegrees or talismans. As he +pulled off each he kissed it devoutly, and laid it by +gently on his papers. He wears one round his arm in +the shape of an armlet, and three round his neck, two +suspended with separate ribbons, and one with a silver +chain. As he kissed each, he put it to his eyes, rubbing +it over the eyelid. I am sadly afraid his charms obtain +all the credit of my solution of nitrate of silver. Be it +so; it is hard to cure men of this sort of folly, at best +a most unwished, unrequited labour<a name="FNa_1-24" id="FNa_1-24"></a><a href="#FoN_1-24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a>. I always tell the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-152" id="V1-152"></a>[<a href="images/1-152.png">152</a>]</span> +Ghadamsee people the medicine I distribute neither +belongs to me, nor to the English Consul at Tripoli, but +to the Queen of England, and which, I have observed, +heightens its value in their eyes. <i>Douwa min, ând +Sultana Ingleeza</i>, ("physic from the English Sultana",) is +a sort of royal talisman which helps the medicine down +as a bit of sugar taken with a child's draught.</p> + +<p><i>10th.</i>—The women brought several little children, all +ailing, but could do very little for them. Occupied +writing most of the day. Spent the evening with the +Rais. His Excellency is very fond of politics: "The +Touaricks number more than two hundred thousand souls. +They are dispersed over all The Desert. The Sahara +is not so difficult to occupy as some think; it can be +more easily conquered than the mountainous districts. +The country is more open. The only difficulty is the +wells. But in winter, the time when military expeditions +are undertaken, there is water on the line of most +of the grand routes, and camels can supply a large +body of compact troops, where there are no wells. At +the different wells small forts could be built, like that I +am building at <i>Emjezzem</i>, which forts the Touaricks +would never dare approach. The wells once in possession +of the invading force, it would be impossible for +any considerable body of Arabs or Touaricks to follow +up or after their steps. Twenty thousand men could +occupy, in detachments, the greater part of The Sahara. +The French will go to Touat one day, not yet!" But<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-153" id="V1-153"></a>[<a href="images/1-153.png">153</a>]</span> +the Rais never spoke much against the French. He +often said, "I wish the French would exterminate the +<i>Shânbah</i> banditti, the Sultan would applaud them for it. +I pray God the French will destroy these robbers."</p> + +<p>Continue to agitate the question of a tour farther into +the interior. Have almost determined to pursue the +route of Ghat, and accompany the ghafalah of the Ghadamsee +merchants. This route has two advantages for +me—I shall be safe with my old friends the merchants, +and the route has never before been trodden by an +European traveller. The routes of Bornou and Timbuctoo +have been travelled by Europeans, though some of +the parties have never returned. One thing is certain—unless +I go to the first-hand traffickers in human flesh—to +the heart of Africa itself, I can never get the information +which I require. Am told I can defray the expense +of the whole journey from here to Kanou and back, +(exclusive of presents), for about fifty pounds sterling, +but it must be with economy. Afterwards saw several +merchants again on the question, felt discouraged, and +my faith shook in the Ghat route. They think the best +route for me Bornou, thence I may proceed to Kanou, +and perhaps even to Timbuctoo. It is astonishing how +everybody's opinion varies; the majority, nevertheless, +are in favour of the Bornou route for me. Probably +they are afraid of the responsibility of escorting me +through the Touarick districts. Determined a day or +two after to go to Kanou <i>viâ</i> Ghat and Aheer. Cannot +see any danger if I stick close to the Ghadamsee merchants. +A young merchant said to me, "Yâcob, we +are not jealous of you, for you are not a merchant. +You can draw your money, and get it ready. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-154" id="V1-154"></a>[<a href="images/1-154.png">154</a>]</span> +ghafalah will be cheap for you, for no escort will be +required. You can go without your Consul, or the +Pasha, or the Rais."</p> + +<p>The wind continues hot to-day; the <i>ghiblee</i> is getting +more suffocating and intense. Everything is drooping +and the poor emaciated fasters are dying with thirst. +The air is as the small still breath of the furnace +when its heat is at the greatest intensity, without flame +or smoke.</p> + +<p><i>11th.</i>—Every day, in spite of the Ramadan, brings an +increase of patients. In time there will not be a single +inhabitant of Ghadames who has not been physicked by +my quackery. I notice my negro servant Said is gradually +expanding into a full-blown reputation, of which he +is very proud. The Mussulmans pay him almost more +deference than myself, and I ought to be jealous. It is +the plan in these countries to influence the masters +through the servants; so whenever anything is to be +obtained, the masters are not spoken to, but the servants, +which latter are feed and bribed until the object is +obtained. Preached anti-slavery and anti-Ramadan doctrines +to Berka, the liberated slave of Sheikh Makouran. +The poor fellow confessed it was better to eat and drink +in the Ramadan, and not steal men and sell them as +slaves, than to fast in the Ramadan, and steal men and +sell them. The old lad has great influence amongst the +slaves of Ghadames, being their senior, and the liberated +slave of one of the most respectable men of the country. +He went and preached in turn to the slaves my anti-slavery +and anti-fast principles.</p> + +<p>It may be observed here, that information can only be +obtained bit by bit, here a little and there a little; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-155" id="V1-155"></a>[<a href="images/1-155.png">155</a>]</span> +it is absolutely necessary to note everything down immediately +if you would not forget it, at least if you would +be correct. The Moors and Arabs have no patience, +beyond a few minutes, in giving information, unless it be +something where their own interests are deeply concerned. +My scattered notes must then be compared one with +another to arrive at a proper idea of the objects respecting +which they treat. Some notes will necessarily +correct others.</p> + +<p>A Touarick came in whilst I was eating my dinner +this evening, about half an hour before sun-set. I was +sitting in the patio, or open court of my house. The +Touarick, standing erect before me, with a long spear in +his right hand, and extending his left towards the sky, +looked up, and then, with an air of imposing solemnity, +uttered these words in a measured, solemn tone: +"And—thou—Christian—thou fastest—thus! Thy father—knoweth—not—God! +Thou art a <i>Kafer</i>—he is a Kafer—and +the fire<a name="FNa_1-25" id="FNa_1-25"></a><a href="#FoN_1-25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> at last will eat you both up!" Turning +round, and looking up to this prophet-like denunciator, I +said, smiling: "Why, how now? you Mussulmans fast, +and think you are righteous; but whether is it better +to eat and drink on the Ramadan, for which God +cares nothing, or fast in the Ramadan, and go afterwards +and steal or buy men and women and little children, +like your little son there, and take them to Tripoli, +and sell them like donkeys and camels? This is forbidden +to us English—this is our religion, not to steal and sell +men, but to eat and drink in the Ramadan is not forbidden +to us." After this answer, which I had some difficulty +in making him comprehend, the fellow stood<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-156" id="V1-156"></a>[<a href="images/1-156.png">156</a>]</span> +speechless, completely staggered. I continued to eat my +dinner with a good appetite, notwithstanding his threatening +position and silence. God knows what was passing +through his mind. After a long pause he receded back +a few steps, and then quietly squatted down. He then +got up again, and said, "Have you any medicines for my +mother in Ghat?" I told him to come to-morrow, and +I would give him some.</p> + +<p>Rais occupied as usual this morning with collecting +money. He avows with exasperation that the people +have deposited all their money in the hands of a few +merchants of Tripoli, who are under the protection of +the Consuls. He was writing teskeras to obtain money +from those Tripoli merchants. "The Pasha," he added, +"gets no benefit from these deposits, nor the people. +The Tripoli merchants are lying, bloodsucking Jews." +Did not go out again till the evening; occupied in copying +a long letter for <i>The Times</i>. My sugar and tea go +very fast. Do not know what I should have done unless +the Ramadan had interposed to save these luxuries of +The Desert. It is surprising how rigid the fast is kept. +Not a soul in the city of the proper age who does +not fast.</p> + +<p><i>12th.</i>—Weather continues very sultry. The wind has +scarcely changed for a month, always south. To-day I +ate camel's flesh for the first time, but did not like it +much; it depends, however, upon the part you eat, as +also upon the camel itself, whether young or old, or in a +good condition. The camel is usually killed when past +work, and very lean and poor. The people call camels' +flesh their beef; it does serve as a substitute for bullocks' +flesh, no bullocks being killed here. The whole<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-157" id="V1-157"></a>[<a href="images/1-157.png">157</a>]</span> +carcase was immediately sold as soon as exposed in the +Souk.</p> + +<p><i>13th.</i>—Wrote this evening to the Governor of Ghat, +to tell him I wished to come to Ghat, and begged for his +protection; and that I should be obliged if he could +send some trusty person to fetch me, whose expenses I +would pay. Wrote also letters to go by courier to +Tripoli.</p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—Weather continues hot. My taleb calls the +season <i>khareef</i>, "autumn;" and says the fruits of heaven +which are always ripe have nevertheless a peculiar ripeness +at this period. Staring at him, he continued, "Yes, +there is a greater correspondence between earth and +heaven than people think." I was recommended this +taleb by the Rais. He writes my Arabic letters for The +Desert; he calls himself Mohammed Ben Mousa Bel +Kasem. The reader will hear now a great deal about +him, and his learning and character. He takes up my +Arabic Bible now and then, and reads a verse or two; +but it is astonishing how little effect, even in the way of +curiosity, it produces on the mind of these Mussulmans. +One would think at least they would like to know something +of its contents. Notwithstanding, The Book, which +contains the religion of the civilized world, hardly excites +curiosity enough in them to take it up and read a single +verse! I have often offered it to them to read, but they +have refused to open the book. A great disadvantage is +the crabbed, miserable language into which it is translated. +After the bold, impudent, and sublime language +of the Koran, they cannot relish the tame and stunted +language of the Arabic New Testament. As for the +simple and grand truths of the New Testament, these<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-158" id="V1-158"></a>[<a href="images/1-158.png">158</a>]</span> +they cannot or will not comprehend. Force, or the +Sword—as the Might of the Almighty—is the thing +alone which strikes the minds of Mussulmans, in spite of +all their moral maxims and philosophy. But I must confess +I never expected that a religion like that of the Koran, +which contains so few fundamental truths, and so few mysteries, +would have produced such a race of superstitious +pharisees. To-day a fellow, whose eyes are dreadfully +inflamed with ophthalmia, refuses to have them <i>doctored</i>, +because the solution administered to the eye may enter +the stomach, by which he would violate the sanctity of +the Ramadan. I can only beg him to come at night. +Another jackanapes, who suffers equally, refuses to have +my solution at all applied. He said to me, "I suffer, +and I may be blind, but it will be the will of God." I +wonder the whole population is not blind. Another +sufferer craved a talisman to drink with water at +night<a name="FNa_1-26" id="FNa_1-26"></a><a href="#FoN_1-26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a>.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-23" id="FoN_1-23"></a><a href="#FNa_1-23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> <i>Tut</i>, "Morus alba," L. It is pleasant and sweet, but a little +insipid eating.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-24" id="FoN_1-24"></a><a href="#FNa_1-24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> Whether the Rais brought his superstitious reverence for amulets +from Turkey or not I cannot tell, or acquired the notion here. +But the superstition seems merely to have changed place with the +Fetisch amongst the Negro Mohammedan converts. Haj Ibrahim, +a merchant of Tripoli, was the only Mussulman I found who +despised the use of charms. He observed:—"The <i>grigri</i> is only +fit for slaves, or ignorant Mussulmans."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-25" id="FoN_1-25"></a><a href="#FNa_1-25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Hell is ordinarily denominated <i>fire</i> by people in The Desert.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-26" id="FoN_1-26"></a><a href="#FNa_1-26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> Caillié gives an affecting account of this superstition amongst +the Mandingoes:— +</p><p> +"On the 8th, I found myself very ill in consequence of the +food, and I had an attack of fever. I took a few doses of sulphate +of quinine, which had the effect of abating the fever for a few days. +My host seemed much concerned at my indisposition. He searched +through some old books which contained verses of the Koran, and +brought me a scrap of paper well fumigated on which was written +a charm in Arabic characters, assuring me that it was an excellent +remedy for the disorder under which I was suffering. He directed +me to copy it on a little piece of wood which he brought me; then, +to wash off the writing with some water which I was to drink: he +observed that this would to a certainty relieve me. To please him +I copied the writing as he directed, and when he was gone washed +the bit of board; but instead of drinking the water I threw it +away, which had quite as good an effect, for next day I found +myself tolerably well. My host, of course, attributed my amendment +to the efficacy of his remedy."</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-159" id="V1-159"></a>[<a href="images/1-159.png">159</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<h3>THE FAST OF THE RAMADAN.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Sahara, and derivation of the Name.—Astonishment of the +People at the Sovereign of England being a Woman.—Decision +of the Kady on a diseased Camel.—The old Mendicant Bandit.—Phrenological +examination of the Servants of the Rais.—The +Scorpion and the Chamelion.—Starving state of the Arab Troops.—Contradictions +in the Moorish Character.—Difficulty of acquiring +notions of Quantities and Distances from the People.—The +Princes to whom Presents are made in the Soudan Route.—How +Butchers cut up their Meat.—Connexion between North Africa, +The Sahara, and the East.—The Prophecy of The Dajal and +Gog and Magog.—Origin of the Turks, Touaricks, and Russians.—How +the Fast is broken in the Evening.—Phenomenon +of Desert Sound.—The Great Spring of Ghadames.—The Malta +Times.—The People their own Enslavers.—Quotation from +Scripture.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="smcap">A taleb</span> tells me that <i>The Sahara</i> is so called from +its consisting mostly of rocky stony ground, and its +name is a cognate term with <i>Sakharah</i>, ‮صخرة‬, <i>i. e.</i> "rock." +This derivation we can scarcely admit, although as we +advance into The Sahara we shall find at least a third of +its entire surface to consist of rocks and stones, and +mountains. <i>The Sahara</i>—‮الصحرا‬—being the theatre of +my adventures and researches, deserves a little <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'considertion'">consideration</ins> +as to the derivation of this appellation, for so vast +a proportion of the African Continent. A late French +writer, M. Le Lieutenant-Colonel Daumas, defines +The Sahara as "une contrée plate et très-vaste, où il n'y +a que peu d'habitants, et dont la plus grande partie est +improductive et sablonneuse." This definition presents no<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-160" id="V1-160"></a>[<a href="images/1-160.png">160</a>]</span> +proper idea of The Sahara. We have already seen it +intersected with long low ridges of mountains, but we +shall soon meet with groups of high mountains, as well +as find it bristled over and bounded by interminable +chains. We shall find also that but a certain portion of +its actual mass consists of sand. Unproductive the +greater part undoubtedly is, or rather uncultivated; and +its population, compared with its vast sterile surface, is +extremely small, perhaps not one inhabitant to many +thousand square miles. The Mahometan talebs give the +following curious etymology of the term Sahara. "We +call <i>Sehaur</i>," they say, "that point scarcely distinguishable +which precedes the point of day, (<i>fidger</i>), and +during which, in the time of Ramadan, we can eat, drink, +and smoke. The most rigorous abstinence ought to commence +from the time of morning, or when we can distinguish +a white thread from a black thread. The +<i>Sehaur</i> is then a shade between night and the point of +day, which is important for us to seize upon and to determine, +and which ought to occupy the attention of our +Marabouts. One of them, Ben-ej-Jiramy, starting on +the principle, that the <i>Sehaur</i> is more easily and sooner +distinguished by the inhabitants of the plains, where nothing +bounds the horizon, than by the mountaineers, who +are enveloped in masses of earth, concludes that, from the +name of the phenomenon there formed, viz., on the plains, +where it is more particularly distinguished or observed, we +have named the country <i>Sahara</i>, or the country of the +<i>Sehaur</i>." In this whimsical and ingenious derivation +there is a change of the ‮س‬ into ‮ص‬, but which is sufficiently +frequent in the Shemitic languages. The grand +fallacy of the above etymology is, that it assumes the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-161" id="V1-161"></a>[<a href="images/1-161.png">161</a>]</span> +Sahara to be a perfectly flat country, or country of +plains, which is not the fact. The talebs also +give various names to different portions of The Sahara, +according to the geological character of the country. +<i>Feeafee</i> is The Oasis, where life is retired, and one +spends one's happy days amidst eternal springs of living +water, reclining under palms and fruit trees, securely +sheltered from the burning simoon (<i>shoub</i>). <i>Keefar</i>, is +the sandy arid plain, which, occasionally watered by the +winter's revivifying refreshing and fructifying rains, produces +spring herbage, where the Nomade tribes pasture +their flocks in the neighbourhood of the oases. <i>Falat</i>, is +the region of sands in the immensity of steril wastes. +But all these distinctions are arbitrary, and can be predicated +of tracts of country lying on the North Coast of +Africa, as well as the boundless Sahara. On the coast of +Tripoli we have the oasis, the arid plain, and the groups +of sand-hills of eternal sterility. Captain Lyon enumerates +in the same way as the talebs, the various names +which the Arabs apply to different regions of The +Desert. <i>Sahara</i> is sand alone, forming a plane surface, +which agrees with the hypothesis of Ben-ej-Jiramy. +<i>Ghoud</i> is groups of sand-hills of indefinite height, situate +on the borders of stony plains, where the wind has +formed and collected them. <i>Sereer</i>, is generally plains, +whence the sand-hills have been swept, and where alone +sand-hills are found. <i>Wâr</i>, is a rough plain, covered +with large detached stones, lying in confusion, and very +<i>difficult</i> to pass over, which is the meaning of the appellation. +It is applied to all difficult traverse. <i>Hateea</i>, +is a spot possessing the power of fertility; indeed, those +patches of land which are the germs of the oases, now<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-162" id="V1-162"></a>[<a href="images/1-162.png">162</a>]</span> +producing small stinted shrubs scattered at intervals, +from which camels browse a scanty meal, or travellers +make their Desert fire. <i>Wishek</i>, is productive sand-hills +and plains, where the wild palm and lethel-tree grow. +<i>Ghabah</i>, distinguishes cultivated Sahara, sometimes a +portion of the oases, but mostly where there are no inhabitants. +So near Touat, there is a cultivated place called +Ghabah, and without inhabitants. But the people of +Ghadames call also their gardens Ghabah. Sibhah, is +the usual name for all salt plains, sometimes called <i>Shot</i> +in Algeria, being mostly sandy salt marshes. Like the +Sibhah of Emjessen, and "The Lake of Marks," in Tunis, +the saline particles are often combined with earths or +sand so closely as to form a substance resembling stone, +and equally hard to break or cut through. With this +<i>salt</i> stone houses are built. <i>Wady</i>, is the designation of +all long deep depressions of the surface, and is used indifferently +for a valley, a bed of a river, or torrent, or ravine. +These wadys are almost always dry, except one or two +months in the winter. <i>Gibel</i>, is applied to all hills and +mountains. It is quite evident, from the above enumeration, +that these various terms can be equally applied to +the coast and other regions of land, not comprehended +within the assigned limits of The Sahara, and are therefore +not peculiar to The Great Desert of Sahara.</p> + +<p>All the people are astonished when I tell them the +British Sovereign is a lady. They have enough to believe +it; indeed, some of them do not, and think I am trifling +with their credulity. It goes against the grain, and their +grain especially, to be ruled over by a woman, (though +many of them, from my own personal knowledge, are +entirely under the influence of their wives <i>in private</i>, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-163" id="V1-163"></a>[<a href="images/1-163.png">163</a>]</span> +all or most men are,) and is contrary to all their notions +of government and womankind. I was surrounded with +a group when the information was given, and I shall just +mention the questions which were put to me in rapid +succession. "Does that woman <i>govern well</i>?" "Has +she a husband? What does her husband?" "Has she +any children?" "Is she a big woman?" "Is she beautiful?" +"How much does she pay you for coming to our +country?" "Who has more power, she or the Sultan (of +Constantinople)?" "What's her name?" "Have the +Christians any other women who govern?" And so +forth. I explained to them that Spain and Portugal +were ruled by two other Queens, but that, in France, a +Queen never reigns. At the mention of this latter fact, +there was general murmur of approbation, "El-Francees +ândhom <i>âkel</i> (the French have wisdom)." To soften the +matter down a little, and abate their prejudices, I told +them the father of the Queen of England had no sons, +and in all such cases, if there were daughters, these were +allowed to govern the people. "Batel (stupid)," said +one fellow, and the conversation dropped.</p> + +<p>Begin to like the place, as I find I can pick up information +respecting the interior. The merchants seem now +more disposed to assume the responsibility of taking me +with them. Went through the market-place, and witnessed +a sitting of judgment upon a sick camel. This +was an affair of the Kady, a little, fat, chubby, cherub-looking +fellow, but proud and silent. The people said +he was <i>sagheer</i>, "young," and excused his uncanonical +conduct. He sat, high placed on a stone-bench, amidst +a semicircle of people, squatting on the ground. He +looked very grave, now exchanging a word or half syl<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-164" id="V1-164"></a>[<a href="images/1-164.png">164</a>]</span>lable +with one, now with another, but continually moving +his lips as if in prayer. I met him afterwards in the +street, and always found him moving the lips, with his +rosary of black Mecca beads in his hands. He holds a +separate and independent jurisdiction from the Rais, and +is the Archbishop or Pope of Ghadames. His decision +cannot be annulled by the authorities in Tripoli, but +must be referred to the Ulemas at Constantinople. He +therefore thinks not a little of himself, and with reason. +Four questions were now before the Kady, embracing +physic, law, and divinity.</p> + +<p>1st. To whom did the camel belong (for the Arabs +disputed this)?</p> + +<p>2nd. Could it recover from its sickness, or was it +incurable?</p> + +<p>3rd. Whether it should be killed, if it could not be +cured?</p> + +<p>4th. Whether it should be eaten after it was killed?</p> + +<p>The diseased, emaciated camel lay groaning just without +the semicircle. There was a large abscess over the +shoulders, produced by the loads it had carried, besides +other sores. A million of flies was then settled on the +abscess, which was a running sore. It was a most disgusting +sight. But not to the people who eyed the poor +animal as connoisseurs. I learnt afterwards the Kady's +decision was: "The camel is incurable, but may be killed +and eaten." I asked the people whether they were not +afraid to eat an animal which was so much diseased. +They replied, "No, it is the judgment of the Kady. +To-morrow we shall kill and eat it. To-day there's +camels' flesh enough." I was astonished at the Kady's +decision, and told the people diseased animals were not<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-165" id="V1-165"></a>[<a href="images/1-165.png">165</a>]</span> +allowed to be killed for eating in our country, for there +was danger in their making people ill. Some approved of +this; but the population is much poorer than I, at first, +thought, and the indigent are glad to catch anything. +The few rich bury their money in foreign speculations, or +hoard it up in their houses. After the decision, the +miserable camel was left alone in the Souk, a prey to the +flies, which were voraciously feeding on its running sores, +till the next day. Semi-civilized people cannot comprehend +the mercy or duty of alleviating the sufferings of +the inferior creation.</p> + +<p>To-day a new case of severe ophthalmia. This was +that of a woman, who also had a fever. To my agreeable +surprise, a number of her friends decided that she should +take a fever-powder, in spite of the Ramadan. I administered +it myself, and she drank it greedily. I was +glad of such a marked exception to the rigid fasting. +Her relatives said she was permitted to drink it, first, +because she was <i>a woman</i>, and, secondly, because she +was sick. This was the law of the Kady. Met a remarkable +Touarick in the streets. This is an old worn-out +man, with one eye, and that much damaged. In his +day he has been a famous bandit, has plundered many a +caravan and murdered the hapless merchants. He is +now, in his dreadful old age, sheltered in the very city +whose wayfaring merchants he so often plundered and +murdered. The judgment of heaven seems pressing hard +upon him; for he is poor and miserable, a beggar in the +streets—all his ill-gotten wealth is gone! He leads +about a little lad, whom he calls his son, and who seems +to afford the wretched old villain his only repose of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-166" id="V1-166"></a>[<a href="images/1-166.png">166</a>]</span> +mind, if repose he can have from so horrible a conscience. +I gave the child a small coin. The inhabitants +feed the bandit, and tolerate him with an admirable +spirit of merciful forgiveness. And if <i>they</i> do, +who cries for vengeance?</p> + +<p>Wrote to-day a letter to the Pasha of Tripoli, thanking +His Highness for the kind attentions I had received +from the Governor of Ghadames. I never did anything +with such good will. It was, besides, an absolute +duty.</p> + +<p>This afternoon examined phrenologically, <i>bump</i>ologically, +the heads of many children. There was a considerable +variety in the <i>bumps</i>, as well as the configuration, of the +cranium. Some of the heads were well flattened on +either side, others rounded, and mostly low, depressed +foreheads, with "self-esteem" and "love of approbation" +ascending appallingly far up at the back of the head. +Very few men or children have the frontal regions well +developed. Examined a man esteemed a great dervish, +who is always reading and writing the Koran. It's +strange that the saint had the organ of veneration well +developed. The Rais hearing of my cunning in this +occult science, which some of the people called a new +<i>deen</i>, ("religion,") wished to see me perform; so, on +visiting him in the evening, he ordered forth all his +understrappers and hangers-on, and made them submit +to the fearful ordeal of head <i>pummelling</i>, first begging me +to speak out everything, and then calling for fire to +light his pipe, that he might muse over the exhibition +<i>à la Turque</i>. The first officer examined was collector of +the revenue, a native of Derge, a regular task-master in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-167" id="V1-167"></a>[<a href="images/1-167.png">167</a>]</span> +his way, and very malicious; I was frightened what to +say. All was attention, the Rais particularly wishing to +know if he was a thief, and had secreted Government +money in his house. This his Excellency told me afterwards, +when we were alone. The collector happened, by +good luck, to have a large "acquisitiveness," and "benevolence" +at the same time. This I explained to the +Rais, and said the one balanced or neutralized the other. +Tayeb, ("good"), said his Excellency, much chagrined, +his Excellency evidently wishing to have had the fellow +made out a thief. I must not continue through all the +examinations. Suffice it to say, by this display of my +new craft, I was raised very much in the estimation of +everybody. But the most surprising thing was, a Touarick +affirmed to the Rais, with great vehemence, that +one of his neighbours was a phrenologist, and acquired +his knowledge from the <i>jenoun</i> ("demons"). The major-domo +of his Excellency, (who had had a good character +given to him in the examination,) was very angry at +this attempt to lower my credit of being the first to teach +phrenology in the The Desert, and pushed the Touarick +out of the Rais's house, and we only just escaped a disturbance, +or losing all our fun, the Touarick drawing his +sword to defend himself. In general I was disappointed, +and did not observe the African and Moorish forms of +cranium so much marked as I expected. They were all, +thank goodness, pretty cleanly shaved. It is well known +Mussulmans generally shave their heads, and leave their +beards unshaven. This is, then, a splendid field for +accurate phrenological observation. I observed that the +negroes have all of them "self-esteem" most surprisingly +developed. From this, (if the science were true, which I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-168" id="V1-168"></a>[<a href="images/1-168.png">168</a>]</span> +very much question<a name="FNa_1-27" id="FNa_1-27"></a><a href="#FoN_1-27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a>,) we could easily deduce their habitual +gaiety, for a man who has always a good opinion of +himself is rarely miserable.</p> + +<p>Just after the examination finished, whilst we were all +very gay, smoking, drinking coffee, talking, and laughing, +one of the Moors started up suddenly, and in an instant, +taking his shoe, lying beside him, struck something +down with a great smack on the floor; it turned out to +be an immense scorpion! I felt a chill start through all +my blood. The smashed reptile looked hideous in the dim +light of the Ramadan lamp. This is the third scorpion +within a fortnight the Rais has killed in his own house; +one of enormous size he killed a few days ago. The Rais +called for more coffee, and said coolly and laconically, +"It's all <i>maktoub</i> between you and the scorpions; if they +are to bite you, they will." His Excellency thought the +sting often deadly. My taleb joins the rest in their +notions of fatality. In coming home with me afterwards, +I said to him, "I am alarmed at these scorpions, as +there's no security from them; for you say they get +upon the beds, on the tops of the houses, and in every +hole and corner." The taleb—"I am not afraid; I am +always killing them in my house, and yet I fear them +not, for it's all from God. If they are destined by <i>Rubbee</i> +to sting me to death, they will, so I do not disturb myself. +You Christians are foolish." It does not appear +that this reptile strikes a person unless it be attacked, or +trodden upon. The people say they feed on <i>trāb</i>, +"dust" or "dirt." Yesterday the chameleon was seen in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-169" id="V1-169"></a>[<a href="images/1-169.png">169</a>]</span> +the gardens: there is a few in Ghadames, and in most +parts of North Africa. The one I saw was a most +unsightly creature. The construction of the eyes is +remarkable; they turn on a swivel, or seem to do so, and +are directed every way in a moment of time. It is a +trite observation, that the lower brute animal has many +advantages over the more perfect and rational animal. I +often, <i>en route</i>, admired the beautiful facility with which +the camel turned its head and neck completely round, +and looked upon objects in every direction, without even +moving its body, or if in motion, without stopping. I +watched the chameleon a long time, to see it "change its +colour;" it did so continually, but scarcely any of the +colours were agreeable or beautiful; they were mostly +dunnish red and yellow, and sometimes black brown; +often-times it was covered with spots, now with stripes, +now with neither one nor the other. Once it was an +ugly black, and then of a light pale-green yellow. The +fewness of animals in this oasis occasions me to record +its appearance. The people mention two or three +varieties of the species. They are fond of the chameleons, +at least, give them the full liberty of the gardens, +without attempting to destroy them.</p> + +<p>The Sebâah, a freebooting tribe of Tunisian Arabs on +the frontier, who some two months ago plundered a +Ghadames caravan near Gharian, have been made to render +up an account of the spoil. The Pasha of Tripoli +wrote to the Bey of Tunis, and the Bey has undertaken +to make them surrender their booty. The value is only +about 1000 dollars, and forty camels. People are very +inquisitive about my personal affairs. They ask me +repeatedly, why I don't marry, or where are my wife and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-170" id="V1-170"></a>[<a href="images/1-170.png">170</a>]</span> +children? and add, "for you are getting old, and have +plenty of money." I usually reply, "I can't carry a +wife about with me all over the world." In the Desert +and all over North Africa, it is looked upon as a species +of disgrace for a man not to be married. It perhaps +ought to be so everywhere; but our social system of +Europe is become now so bad, that nearly half of the +people cannot afford to marry. And so degraded in +their feelings have become the lower classes of the +British Isles, that many of those who do marry, marry +with the clear understood determination of throwing +their offspring upon the public bounty. The Puseyite +and Church alms-giving clergy, to their shame, encourage +our miserable population in these most despicable sentiments, +and tell the people it is their right as granted to +them by the founder and apostles of the Christian +Church. Tyrants must have slaves, and priestly tyrants +as well as other sorts of tyrants; it is therefore necessary +there should be propagated a race of slaves.</p> + +<p>This morning the poor old blind man demands the +strong medicine for his eye. He says, "I feel less pain +in my eyes though I see no better." O Dio! what a +precious gift is sight—how persevering is this old man to +see again those sights of desert, palm, and oasis, which +he saw in his youthful days! Perhaps there is a tenth +of the population of Ghadames nearly blind, or quite +blind. The Sheikh Makouran has calculated the expense +from Ghadames to Kanou, and back, for me, at two +hundred dollars. The Moors are essentially children in +some things. Young men, full grown, carry about with +them in their pockets a little bit of white sugar to suck, +stowed away in needlecases. To-day, a ghafalah of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-171" id="V1-171"></a>[<a href="images/1-171.png">171</a>]</span> +Touaricks, twenty persons, left for Ghat. They took my +letter for the Governor. The Touaricks are getting used +to the sight of a Christian. My opinion is also undergoing +a favourable change towards them. Certainly, the +best informed of the Ghadamsee people give them a good +character.</p> + +<p><i>15th.</i>—The Rais killed two more scorpions after I left +him last night. A child was bitten a few days ago by a +scorpion, and died to-day. His Excellency hopes they +will disappear <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'aftet'">after</ins> the Ramadan. The scorpion, like +many other venemous and deadly animals, is a creature +of <i>heat</i>, and in the winter is never seen. The scorpion +usually comes out of his hiding-places, or the crevices of +the walls, during night time, and is rarely seen in the +day. Various remedies for its bite or sting, or stroke, are +in vogue here. People usually employ garlic: they both +eat it and rub it into the bitten or stricken part. Others +cut round the stung part, and then rub over the whole +with snuff. People persist that the scorpion eats dust, +but that he is very fond of <i>striking Ben-Adam</i> ("the +human race.") Two nights after the scorpion affair with +the Rais, to our dread and horror, Said killed a large +one close by our beds. We always sleep upon the +ground-floor on matting. He was <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'dosing'">dozing</ins> in the night, +after his Ramadan midnight meal, when the monster +scrambled past by his head like an enormous crab. In +the morning he showed me his sting as a trophy of +victory. We then examined all the walls in our sleeping +apartment, and stopped up cracks and crevices. After a +short time the scorpions were forgotten, or we got used +to them; and the next one that Said had a chase after, +excited in me little attention. So I found, like the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-172" id="V1-172"></a>[<a href="images/1-172.png">172</a>]</span> +Moors, myself a fatalist, or at least became reconciled to +the presence of these death-stinging reptiles. I found +eventually, in fact, the people killed them with as much +unconcern as we do spiders. The scorpion is the only +creature armed with the fatal power of destroying life, +which, for the present I hear of in the oases of The +Sahara. The Arabs, in their hatred of the Touaricks, +say, "The scorpion and the Touarick are the only enemies +you meet with in The Sahara."</p> + +<p><i>16th.</i>—The old worn-out bandit met me, and asked +me to cure his rheumatic pains. "Show me your +tongue," I said. He flatly refused, as several persons +were present. Then when I went away he came running +after me, and tried to put out his tongue, but did +not succeed. I told him to drink plenty of hot broth, +and go to bed. He seemed satisfied. An Arab soldier +afflicted with diarrhœa, came for medicine. He waited +till the last rays of the sun were seen to depart from the +minaret's top, before he would take his pills. Meanwhile, +he gave me a catalogue of grievances, the sum and +substance of which was, "he had nothing to eat." I +questioned him over and over again, and then, coming to +the same stern conclusion, I gave him some supper. +Some weeks ago the Rais gave each soldier 3 Tunisian +piastres, about 1<i>s.</i> 10<i>d.</i> Since then they had had nothing. +Substantially, I believe, he spoke the truth, for +these poor fellows are kept just above the starvation-to-death +point. It is not surprising they wish to return to +their homes, or Tripoli, and that they pilfer about the +town. Asking him why the Rais did not give them a +few karoobs, he replied naively, "The Rais has none for +us, but plenty to buy gold for his horse's saddle." To-<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-173" id="V1-173"></a>[<a href="images/1-173.png">173</a>]</span>day, +nor yesterday, could I buy any eatable meat. I +mean mutton, for this is the ordinary meat of the place, +and upon which I live, with now and then a fowl. But +in the Souk another camel was killed, and a great display +was made of its meat. The camel was ill before +killed, but not so bad as the one already mentioned. +Some fifty persons were enjoying the sight of the camel +being cut up, for the Moorish butchers always cut up +their meat into very small portions, sometimes not bigger +than a couple of mouthsful. Before killed, the camel +sold for one hundred and eight Tunisian piastres; the +one on which the Kady gave judgment, only produced +thirty-three. (Tunisian piastres vary from 7<i>d.</i> to 9<i>d.</i>)</p> + +<p>Yesterday the weather sultry, and a few drops of rain +fell on the parched oasis—drops of ambrosia from the +gods. To-day it is cloudy and cool, for the first time +since my residence here; a cool elastic sensation braces +up my poor drooping frame.</p> + +<p>The Moor picks up every bit, or little dirty scrap of +paper he finds in the streets, and places it in a hole of the +wall, or upon a ledge, lest there should be written on it, +"the name of God," and the sacred name be trodden +upon and profaned. It is probable they derived the +superstition from the Jews, who have many mysterious +notions about certain letters which form the name of +The Almighty. I have often seen ‮שדי‬ affixed on the +door-posts of Jewish houses in Barbary. But no people +in the world use the name of God more vainly than +Mussulmans, nor swear more than they, the greater +part of the words used being different epithets of the +Divine Nature. This inconsistency runs through all the +actions of these semi-civilized people. No people pre<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-174" id="V1-174"></a>[<a href="images/1-174.png">174</a>]</span>tend +to more delicacy in the mode of dress, more respect +for women, not even mentioning the names or existence +of their wives. My late Marabout camel-driver, when +speaking of his wife and family, merely said <i>saghar</i> +("little children"). And, notwithstanding all this, no +people are more sensual and impure, and esteem women +less, than the Moors of towns. In swearing and oaths, +the epithets "With God!" "By God!" "God!" "The +Lord!" or "My Lord (<i>Rubbee</i>)!" "God, the Most High!" +and, "The Most Sacred Majesty of God (<i>Subkhanah +Allah</i>)!" are the common forms of using the Divine +Name. A Tibboo stranger went into a house to buy a +pair of pistols, and the seller was not at home. My +taleb, who was a neighbour, and was anxious his friend +should sell his pistols, run about exclaiming, <i>Subkhanah +Allah!</i> I confess I was greatly shocked on hearing +these most awful words used in such a way. I taxed +the taleb afterwards with it, and compared his conduct +with what I had seen in his picking up bits of paper in my +house, for fear the names of The Deity should be upon +them. He merely answered pettishly, "What do you +wish? all people say so." A less serious note may be +added here, that of the loose and curious way in which +the Arabs express their ideas of quantities and distances. +"Great" and "small" means with them any quantities, +as "near" and "afar," any distances. I asked an +Arab of Tunis when he expected his caravan? He +replied, <i>Ghareeb</i> ("near"). "What do you mean, a +week, a fortnight, or how long?" "<i>Twenty days!</i>" was +the reply. In endeavouring to obtain information from +these people on distances and quantities, the only way +is to make them compare the thing unknown with what<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-175" id="V1-175"></a>[<a href="images/1-175.png">175</a>]</span> +you know. They will tell you at such a place is an +exceedingly high mountain. If there is a hill or a mountain +near you at the time, you must ask them if it as large +or larger than that? In this way you will frequently +find their great mountain to be no bigger than a hillock.</p> + +<p>The merchants say it is necessary to give presents to +the following princes of authority, in the route of +Soudan:—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Touaricks.</span></h4> + +<ul><li>Governor of the town of Ghat;</li> +<li>The Sultan of the Touaricks of Ghat, and the surrounding districts;</li> +<li>The Sultan of Aheer; and</li> +<li>The Sultan of Aghadez:</li> +</ul> + +<p>and these princes demand presents as a matter of right.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Fullannee and Negroes.</span></h4> + +<ul><li>The Governor of Damerghou;</li> +<li>The Sultan of Tesouwah;</li> +<li>The Deputy-Sultan of Kashna; and</li> +<li>The Deputy-Sultan of Kanou:</li> +</ul> + +<p>but these latter princes do not demand presents as a +matter of right, leaving it to the good pleasure of the +stranger. There are also a few other smaller places where +a trifling present will help a merchant on his way. The +presents are collected according to the means and wealth +of each individual merchant, each subscribing his share, +one giving a burnouse, others a piece of cloth, or silk, or +beads, and what not. The whole is then collected together, +and a deputation of two or three merchants is +formed out of the caravan, who convey their presents to +the prince, and the prince, when he finds the merchants<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-176" id="V1-176"></a>[<a href="images/1-176.png">176</a>]</span> +have treated him liberally, sometimes returns a present +of a slave or two, but generally a quantity of fresh provisions.</p> + +<p>A small ghafalah of Touaricks having left to-day for +Touat, Sheik Makouran, whose merchandise they were +escorting on its way to Timbuctoo, begged me to write +a letter to the Sheikh of Ain-Salah, one of the oases, +which is in direct commercial relations with Ghadames. +The plain English of the letter was, that Sheikh Haj +Mohammed Welled Abajoudah, of Ain-Salah, would +receive me friendly if I came to him, would protect all +Englishmen travelling through his country, and would +not let them be attacked and murdered as Major Laing +was. When I gave my friend Makouran the letter, he +asked me what I had written. I related the substance. +"Allah, Allah!" exclaimed old Makouran; "Why, the +Sheikh of Ain-Salah is my friend, he'll treat you as +kindly as I do; he's one of us." Then he added, +"Never mind, the letter may go." This evening the +Rais was very unwell. Gave his Excellency some purgative +pills. Afraid he will be obliged to return to Tripoli +for his health; poor fellow, he suffers greatly.</p> + +<p><i>17th.</i>—The weather has opened this morning, dull, +cloudy, and cool, threatening rain. A dingy veil is +drawn over the face of things.</p> + +<p>Have not yet seen any pretty plays amongst the children. +All is dullest monotony. The youth, however, +ultimately recover their wits by travelling. My turjeman +says, "The natives of Ghadames are the greatest travellers +in the world, and are to be found in every country." +The <i>Souk</i> offers nothing for sale but olive-oil, liquid +butter, a little bread, camels' flesh, and now and then a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-177" id="V1-177"></a>[<a href="images/1-177.png">177</a>]</span> +few vegetables. All the Touarick traders have now left, +some for Ghat and others for Touat. My Ghadamsee +friends cease talking of the dangers of my Soudan trip, +and it is a settled thing that I go. Some of them wish +me to try a fasting day; "one day, to see how I like it," +they tell me.</p> + +<p>It is very amusing to see butchers in this place cut up +their meat. Four, eight, or twelve persons, join to buy +a sheep. The sheep is killed, and the butcher has to +divide it into as many equal parts as joint-purchasers. +He begins by dividing it into four equal parts, but +not in the way we should imagine, by cutting the carcase +into four. No, quite different. He first divides +the intestines into four portions, cutting the heart, liver, +and lights into four equal portions, and so of the rest. +Sometimes the heart is made a present to some favoured +individual. Of two sheep cut up to-day, the heart of +one was given to a young friend of mine, and that of the +other to the Governor. The intestines divided, the +butcher proceeds to divide the legs and shoulders into +four equal portions, dividing one leg and one shoulder +into two, and so of the other. The ribs and rest of the +meat is then also equally divided. When the carcase is +thus far divided, a few persons only take one whole +quarter, the rest the butcher proceeds leisurely and +scientifically to divide, several persons taking a whole +quarter divided and subdivided amongst them, not being +able to purchase a large quantity. The quarter is divided +into half-quarters, the half-quarters into quarter-quarters, +and the quarter-quarter is often again divided +and subdivided before it gets into the pot. In this +division, you would imagine the Desert dissector would<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-178" id="V1-178"></a>[<a href="images/1-178.png">178</a>]</span> +cut the meat all away;—no such thing; and so great is +the precision with which he divides and subdivides, that +he has no need of scales and weights, equally dividing +every bit of muscle, cartilage, fat, and bone; indeed, every +person goes away perfectly satisfied with the justice of +the division. I never saw scales and weights used on +these occasions. Should, perchance, a difficulty or dispute +arise as to the comparative size of the portions or equal +divisions, a child is then sent for, and each party having +chosen his token—a piece of wood, a straw, or what not, +the whole are put into the hands of the child, who is +requested to place the sticks or straws upon the portions +of meat it chooses, or to which its caprice may guide. +This decision of the umpire Chance is without or beyond +all appeal. Mussulmans of The Sahara have no idea of +<i>separate joints</i> or choice parts, the heart, perhaps, +excepted, which is highly prized; or, if you will, they +like a bit of every part of the carcase, and cut it up into +these infinitesimal divisions in order that they may obtain +this aggregate of delicate minutiæ. But as this is all +cooked together, there can never be that separate taste +of separate parts which distinguishes the meat as killed +and cooked by Europeans. All Mussulmans are instinctively +butchers, and are familiar with the knife, and +expert at killing animals; it is a sort of religious rite +with them. What I have observed particularly is, there +is none of that shrinking back and chilled-blood shudder +at seeing a poor animal killed, which characterizes Europeans, +and especially the children of Europeans. Here +children may be seen holding the animal whilst its throat +is most barbarously cut! and not flinching a step, or +blinking the eye. Apropos of killing and eating meat,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-179" id="V1-179"></a>[<a href="images/1-179.png">179</a>]</span> +I had a long polemical discussion with my taleb upon +the respective rites and ceremonies of Christians and +Mussulmans. I told him what distinguished the religion +of the New Testament was, that it prescribed no rules +for eating and drinking, or dress; that the whole Christian +religion was based upon two great commandments: +"Thou shalt love God with all thy heart, and thy neighbour +as thyself." This, however, only drew from him +the observation, "Before the time of Sidi Mahomet, this +was the religion of the world." I rejoined, "This was +the religion—still is the religion—of all the English, who +eat and drink everything that is good, and dress any way +they please; and such is the will of God." The taleb +observed, "You wear braces, which is unlawful." I +could not find out the why and the wherefore, unless it +were that it tightened men-folks up too much for modesty. +I told him the Rais and all Turks had braces to their +pantaloons. He simply replied, "Braces are not permitted +by our marabouts."</p> + +<p>North Africa, or this region of The Sahara, more particularly, +is essentially the East, (the Syrian, Arabian +East,) and the religion of Mahomet has indissolubly +bound in ideas, manners, and customs, the inhabitants of +these countries with those of the East. It is, therefore, +very satisfactory to read the <i>Arabic</i> New Testament in +these countries; for, besides presenting all the ideas and +metaphorical adornments, such reading often gives you +the very words and idiomatical expressions of the people. +This correspondence is certainly a strong proof, both that +the latter Biblical writers were natives of the East, and +that the inhabitants of North Africa and The Sahara +were originally emigrants, or colonies from Syria and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-180" id="V1-180"></a>[<a href="images/1-180.png">180</a>]</span> +Arabia. This is the opinion of my taleb, and all the +literati of the oasis. My taleb also treated me to-day +with writing the famous Mohammedan prophecy, respecting +the destinies of the East, and the world in general, +and everybody in particular. It runneth according to +this mighty import: "<i>The Dajal</i>, (‮الدجال‬,) whose name +is the Messiah, and who is the son of Said, and who is a +monstrous fellow, with one eye, shall come upon the +earth, or rather, go abroad upon the earth, and all the +Jews shall flock around him, and enrol themselves under +his standard, for he is their expected Messiah; and then, +armed with their prowess and gold, he shall slay all +Christians and Mohammedans, and shall reign upon the +earth, after their destruction, forty years. This time +outran, there shall then appear Jesus, the son of Mary, +(the Messiah of the New Testament,) in the clouds, who +shall descend upon the earth with flaming vengeance, and +destroy <i>The Dajal</i>. This done, then shall come the end +of the world." My taleb assures me, upon his <i>parole +d'honneur</i>, that <i>The Dajal</i> will come in forty years from +the present time, or in the year 1885! Khoristan, the +country where he is now bound in chains, is, besides, the +country of Gog and Magog (‮جوج و مجوج‬). One of these +gentlemen is very small, indeed a dwarf, about the size +of General Tom Thumb, perhaps one and a half inches +shorter; and the other is tall enough to reach the moon +when it is high over your head. It is strange the Mussulmans +of Ghadames make also the Turks (<i>Truk</i>, as +they call them,) to come from the country of Gog and +Magog. See the following table of the genealogy of all +the people of the earth, especially the Turks, the Touaricks, +and the Russians:<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-181" id="V1-181"></a>[<a href="images/1-181.png">181</a>]</span>—</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-07.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-07_th.jpg" alt="Genealogy of all the people of the Earth" title="Genealogy of all the people of the Earth" /></a></p> + +<p>Such is the leaf of holy tradition in The Desert. It +is astonishing how all nations love to indulge their gloomy +musings with monsters. The extraction of the Russians +from Gog and Magog is a curiosity; but the Russians, +(<i>Moskou</i>, such is their name here,) are looked upon as a +species of monster, whose jaw is capacious enough to +swallow up all the Turks, and the Sultan of the East. +The Rais has the greatest dread of them, whose native +soil they have already gorged, "These Russians," he +said to me one day, "are always, always, always advancing, +advancing, advancing upon the Sultan." Who will +say the patriotic Turk's apprehensions are groundless? +With regard to the extraction of the Touaricks, I asked +one of these people where his countrymen sprang from. He +answered me, that formerly they were demons, (‮جنون‬) +and came from a country near Kanou, on the banks of +The Great River. Another told me, in true Hellenic +style, "The Touaricks sprang out from the ground." An +opinion has been advanced by some acquainted with +ancient Eastern and African geography, that the Touaricks +are from Palestine, and are a portion of the tribes of the +Philistines expelled by Joshua; that the first rendezvous +of the wanderers was the oasis of <i>Oujlah</i>, which is a few +days' journey from <i>Siwah</i>, the site of the celebrated +<i>Ammonium</i>; and thence they proceeded, wandering at +will, to the west and south, peopling all the arid regions<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-182" id="V1-182"></a>[<a href="images/1-182.png">182</a>]</span> +of the Sahara. The Sheikh of the slaves visiting me +to-day, and describing Timbuctoo, said, "It is several +times larger than Tunis; it is as large as <i>Moskou</i> (or +Russia)."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"Who told you <i>Moskou</i> was large?"</p> + +<p><i>He.</i>—"The people."</p> + +<p>So the Emperor of all the Russians may rejoice in the +consciousness, that he and his people constitute as large +a kingdom as Timbuctoo, and are celebrated in the +gossip of Saharan cities.</p> + +<p>The first thing with which people break their fast in +the evening is <i>dates</i>. My taleb, when visiting me, takes +a few dates in his hands, and goes to a corner of the +court-yard, or upon the house-top, about the softening, +musing time, when the last solar rays are lingering playfully—and +to the emaciated faster, teasingly, on this +Saharan world, and there he listens in silence for the first +accents of the shrill voice of the <i>Muethan</i>, calling to +prayers, from the minaret of a neighbouring mosque. +This heard, he commences putting the dates, one by one, +slowly into his parched mouth, repeating a short prayer +with each as he swallows it with a sort of choking +difficulty. After he has eaten a dozen or so, he +drinks, and then goes off to mosque prayers. Sometimes +he prays in my house, and then comes down to dine +with me. Many people, of course, in Ghadames, never +saw a Christian before me; but they are quite as much +astonished to see a Christian eat and drink in the Ramadan, +as to see the Christian himself. This afternoon I +was very thirsty, and went to drink a little water from +one of the water-skins suspended in a square. A +woman, of half-caste, going by at the time, cried out,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-183" id="V1-183"></a>[<a href="images/1-183.png">183</a>]</span> +"Why, why?" I went up to her and said, "Because +you are a Mussulman and I'm a Christian." Her +astonishment was no way abated; she kept exclaiming, +"Why, why?" as if she would raise the whole city. One +of my merchant friends seeing there was some prospect +of a disturbance, came up to me and said, "Yâkob, +that woman is mad; make haste, go home." However, I +rarely ever eat and drink before the people, avoiding as +much as I can shocking their prejudices; and if asked +about fasting, usually evade the question, or say I fast or +wait for my dinner till Said can eat his dinner also.</p> + +<p><i>18th.</i>—Weather has now set in cool. This morning a +little cold and raw. Now's the time for catching coughs +and cold;—people are coughing already. Just before +day-break, a thunderbolt was said to be discharged over +the city, accompanied with a long, low growling muttering +sound, which reverberated from the Saharan hills. +The circumstance remarkable, in the falling of this +dread bolt of heaven's artillery, at the time the sky was +perfectly clear and bright, and there was nothing in the +shape of storm. These discharges of sound are rare in +the Saharan regions. People asked me to explain to +them what it was, and what it prognosticated? I told +them, thunderbolts were frequent in Christian countries +during storms, and nothing of consequence follow from +them. I have reason to believe since, after conversing +with several French officers in Algeria on the subject, +that this phenomenon of a tremendous discharge of sound +was a discharge of electricity <i>from the earth</i>, which +sometimes occurs in North Africa.</p> + +<p>Went to examine the Great Spring of Ghadames this +morning, which is situate on the west side of the city, but<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-184" id="V1-184"></a>[<a href="images/1-184.png">184</a>]</span> +conveniently between the two grand divisions of the +population, the Ben Wezeet and the Ben Weleed. It was +to me a <i>delicium</i>. What a revolution has my opinions +undergone respecting water since I have travelled in The +Thirsty Desert! Never was such an enthusiastic conversion! +But were all conversions so harmless, how +happy for mankind! Some thirty swallows are skimming +its gaseous-bubble surface, playing off their wing-darting +delights. The Spring or Well is perennial, as +old as the foundation of the city, and may have ran for +ages before the palms were planted around it by the +hand of man, or sprung up from a few date-stones left by +some chance fugitives who had stopped to taste its +waters, and then held their way on in The Desert. +Without the Spring the city could have no existence. It +runs into a basin made and banked up for it, an oblong +square of some twenty yards by fifteen. In its deepest +part it is not more than six feet. The water is hot, +averaging a temperature of 120 degrees, and upwards, it +being too hot to bathe in near the orifices, whence the +water gushes with gaseous globules, which continually rise +from the bottom. But the orifices are not visible, and +hence an air of mystery is thrown over this spring of +"Living Water." The people say it was created by +God on the same day when the sea near Tripoli was +made. The gaseous particles are larger and more +numerous in the centre, where is the great force of the +Spring. The water is tolerably good, but a little purgative. +It is usually allowed twelve, but some give it +twenty-four hours to cool before drunk. The form of +the basin may be thus rudely represented:<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-185" id="V1-185"></a>[<a href="images/1-185.png">185</a>]</span>—</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-08.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-08_th.jpg" alt="Great Spring of Ghadames" title="Great Spring of Ghadames" /></a></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">a.</span> Small bathing-places.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">b.</span> Steps where the women descend to fill their jugs +with water.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">c.</span> Corners where the water runs away to the fountains +in the squares and streets, and to the gardens, in +and without the city. Around are the ruins and backs of +houses, walls, and gardens, the palms alone being visible, +looking very fresh and gracefully picturesque, near this +source of life. After this went to see the <i>Water-Watch</i><a name="FNa_1-28" id="FNa_1-28"></a><a href="#FoN_1-28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a>, +which is placed in one corner of the Souk. This is constructed +upon the same principle as the hour-glass, but it +is small, and requires to be emptied twenty-four times to +complete the hour. In fact, it is only a small earthen +pot or jar with a hole in the bottom of certain dimensions, +and when filled with water, and the water has +emptied itself, running out twenty-four times, the hour +is completed. Some gardens require the stream, which +the <i>Water-Watch</i> measures the time of the running of, +an hour, others only half an hour, and others two or +more hours, according to their size and distance from the +source. The inhabitants pay Government so much per +hour for the running of the stream into their gardens; +but some have an hereditary possession in a certain +quantity of the time of the stream's running. Of this<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-186" id="V1-186"></a>[<a href="images/1-186.png">186</a>]</span> +they are naturally very proud. For ordinary household +purposes the water is given without cost. There are two +or three places in the town where a small water-watch is +kept, but that in the Souk is the principal one. I have +thus entered into particulars, for the obvious reason +that, "water is the liquid gold in these thirsty regions." +In Southern Algeria, the oasis of El-Agouat, each landed +proprietor has the prescriptive right of an hour or two +hours of the running of the water, according to the title +deeds of the estate. The time is measured with an +hour-glass (of sand) held by the officer who distributes +the water, and who opens and shuts the conduit of irrigation +at the time fixed. Many other oases have the +same system.</p> + +<p>Some Touaricks remained, who called on me to-day. +One, who had shown himself very friendly, began to +enlarge on the dangers of the Soudan route. I immediately +observed, "God is greater than all the Touaricks." +This stopped his gab, and was applauded by the rest. A +Ghadamsee bawled out, "Oh! it requires a great deal—much, +much, much money to go to Soudan." "How +much?" I asked,—"Oh! much, much, much!" was rejoined. +"What is <i>much</i>?" "Five hundred dollars!" +was shouted out by half a dozen. I coolly observed, "It +is not much for an Englishman." Another of the Touaricks +said, about twenty years ago he saw some Englishmen +come to his country from Fezzan. What struck the +Touarick was, the English tourists gave a dollar for a +fowl, for a drink of milk, and even, he added with an +oath, for an <i>Es-Slamah âleikom</i>? ("How do you do?") +This story was told to impress me with the necessity of +taking plenty of money with me, and I was to keep up<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-187" id="V1-187"></a>[<a href="images/1-187.png">187</a>]</span> +the liberal character of my predecessors in Saharan +travel. So we see these English tourists, who undoubtedly +were Messrs. Denham, Clapperton, and Oudney, +have spoiled the roads of travelling between Ghat and +Fezzan, as Englishmen have spoiled the routes of the +Continent of Europe. This is the propensity of John +Bull, to buy up everything and everybody abroad<a name="FNa_1-29" id="FNa_1-29"></a><a href="#FoN_1-29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a>. The +Touarick added, "A deal of money is required, because +there are many banditti." He meant not exactly robbers, +but beggars, who, whilst begging, give you to understand +that their appeal to your eleemosynary feelings must +not be in vain. All who beg <i>impudently</i> on the routes, or +who levy black-mail, are called <i>Sbandout</i> ("banditti.") +But I'm more convinced than ever, that the greatest +shield of safety for the Desert traveller is his poverty.</p> + +<p>Saw an aged Moorish lady, who greatly interested me. +She told me she was an hundred years old, fasted all day +long, and expected soon to go to Paradise. It is +undoubtedly a vulgar error to say the Mahometan doctrine +teaches that women have no souls. During her +hundred years, she had never seen a Christian before. +Her faculties were too weak for sectarian spite, and she +looked upon me as if I had been a simple Mussulman +stranger.</p> + +<p>Sunset, this evening, a man proclaimed from the housetops +the arrival of the ghafalah, long expected from +Tripoli: only a courier arrived. By him I received the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-188" id="V1-188"></a>[<a href="images/1-188.png">188</a>]</span> +first letter from Tripoli, and the first newspaper, the +<i>Malta Times</i>! That mark of admiration means, gentle +reader, my poor old paper, the paper I established at so +much cost and waste of time, money, health, and labour, +for the good pleasure and caprice of The Island of Malta +and its dependencies. It's yet pleasing to see the old +paper following me; it will, perhaps, follow at my heels +to Central Africa. Ramadan began a day earlier in +Tripoli. The courier, also, brings the news, banditti are +prowling about the The Mountains attacking isolated +travellers and small caravans. I am sorry to see, by my +papers, the people advocates of their own slavery, and +that the Texans have carried through their Congress "the +Annexation with the United States," the republican +patrons and upholders of slavery and the slave-trade! +In this case, at any rate, 'it is not kings and despots +enslaving mankind,' but the people wilfully forging their +own chains. There is also a humble case before my eyes. +Here sits by my side, the slave of Haj Abd-Errahman, +who is sent every year by his master to buy and sell +goods, as if a regular free merchant. It is wonderful +fidelity on the part of this slave that he does not run +away. Unquestionably the negro has some fine qualities. +This slave, however, in palliation of the wrong, +tells me he brings few slaves, and mostly goods. I don't +fail to tell him, slaves are <i>haram</i>, ("prohibited,") to the +English. My taleb comes in, and after asking me the +news, takes up the Arabic Bible, and reads the following +beautiful prophetic sentiment:</p> + +<p class="figcenter">‮ولكثرة الاثم تبرد المحبة من كثير‬</p> + +<p>and then asks what it means? "<i>And because iniquity</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-189" id="V1-189"></a>[<a href="images/1-189.png">189</a>]</span> +<i>shall abound, the love of many shall wax cold</i>," I reply, +"may be illustrated in this way: Suppose the Rais buys +up or bribes the people, so that nearly all the people +applaud whatever he does, whether right or wrong, then +the love of your country, amongst you few faithful +remaining, will wax cold?"</p> + +<p><i>Ben Mousa.</i>—"Yes, I understand, <i>Seedna Aysa</i>, +('our Lord Jesus,') was a prophet."</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-27" id="FoN_1-27"></a><a href="#FNa_1-27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> I always thought phrenology too good to be true. Such a +study, however, may be of some service in classifying mental phenomena, +and induce a taste for metaphysical research.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-28" id="FoN_1-28"></a><a href="#FNa_1-28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> <i>Mungalah</i> or <i>Saah-el-ma</i>. Watches are very uncommon: only +the Governor, and a few of the richest people, have a watch.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-29" id="FoN_1-29"></a><a href="#FNa_1-29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> Once passing through Lyons, I heard of an English tourist +who hired a steam-boat to himself to pass down the Rhone in, hired +an hotel to himself, and one evening took the upper part of a +theatre to himself, including the boxes, and all to enjoy himself +<i>tranquillement</i>, said my French informant.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-190" id="V1-190"></a>[<a href="images/1-190.png">190</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<h3>FAST OF THE RAMADAN.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Women in possession of the Streets.—The Grand Factions of +Ghadames, the <i>Ben Weleed</i> and the <i>Ben Wezeet</i>.—Interest of the +People in Algerian Affairs.—Names, from Bodily Deformities.—Starving +Slaves makes them Thieves.—Disease of the <i>Arak-el-Abeed</i>.—Finances +of Ghadames.—The Prophet Jonah, still +living.—Bad system of collecting Taxes by common Soldiers.—Essnousee +leaves for Ghat, alone.—The <i>Thob</i>.—Stroke of the +Moon.—Mission of Impostors always that of pretended Mercy +to Men.—How the Turk governs the Arabs.—Saharan <i>Lady</i>-Gentlemen.—Classic +and Vulgar Names of Things.—The +<i>Wadan</i>, or <i>Oudad</i>.—Nimrod, the Hercules of the Saharan +Moors.—Enoch, a Tailor.—Noah, a Carpenter.—Serpents and +Monsters in The Desert.—Teach Geography to the People.—Indolence +of the Inhabitants of Africa.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>19th.</i>—<span class="smcap">Morning</span> spent in spelling the Malta Times. +Saw a Ben-Wezeetee, who protested that all the money +of the country was in the hands of the Ben-Weleed. I +asked if he ever went to the Ben-Weleed. "For what," +he replied angrily, "should I go to see those devils?" +In the afternoon found all the streets deserted by the +men-folks, and in possession of the women, girls, and +little children, who were playing all sorts of pranks, and +dancing and singing like so many people let loose from +Bedlam. As soon as they saw me there was a simultaneous +rush at me, all crying out, "Oh, Christian! +Christian! where's your mother? where's your sister? +where's your wife?—don't you want a wife?" Then +they began to pelt me with date-stones. I got out of +the way as quickly as possible. Wondered what in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-191" id="V1-191"></a>[<a href="images/1-191.png">191</a>]</span> +world had become of the men. At last found them and +the boys all congregated round a mosque, this being +some important ceremony of religion.</p> + +<p>I had to-day some talk about the two great political +factions, the <i>Ben-Wezeet</i> and the <i>Ben-Weleed</i>, the Whigs +and Tories of Ghadames, but pushed to such extremities +of party spirit, as almost to be without the limits of +humanity. Notwithstanding the assumed sanctity of +this holy and <i>Marabout</i> City of Ghadames, and its +actually leaving its walls to crumble away, and its gates +open to every robber of the highways of The Desert—trusting +to its prayers for its defence and to its God for +vengeance—it has nourished for centuries upon centuries +the most unnatural and fratricidal feuds within its own +bosom, dividing itself into two powerful rival factions, +and which factions, to this day, have not any <i>bonâ fide</i> +social intercourse with one another. Occasionally one or +two of the rival factions privately visit each other, but +these are exceptions, and the Rais has the chiefs of the +two parties together in Divan on important business +being brought before him. In the market-place there is +likewise ground of a common and neutral rendezvous. +Abroad they also travel together, and unite against the +common enemy and the foreigner. The native Governor, +or <i>Nāther</i>, and the <i>Kady</i>, are besides chosen from one or +other party, and have authority over all the inhabitants +of Ghadames. But here closes their mutual transactions. +It is a long settled time-out-of-mind, nay, +sacred rule, with them, as a whole, "Not to intermarry, +and not to visit each other's quarters, if it can possibly +be avoided." The Rais and myself, reside without the +boundaries of their respective quarters, so that we can<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-192" id="V1-192"></a>[<a href="images/1-192.png">192</a>]</span> +be visited by both parties, who often meet together accidentally +in our houses. The Arab suburb is also neutral +ground. Most of the poor strangers take up their residence +here. The <i>Ben-Wezeet</i> have four streets and the +<i>Ben-Weleed</i> three. These streets have likewise their +subdivisions and chiefs, but live amicably with one another, +so far as I could judge. The people generally are +very shy of conversing with strangers about their ancient +immemorial feuds. I could only learn from the young +men that in times past the two factions fought together +with arms, and "some dreadful deeds were done." My +taleb only wrote the following when I asked him to give +some historical information respecting these factions:—"The +Ben Weleed and the Ben Wezeet are people of +Ghadames, who have quarrelled from time immemorial: +it was the will of God they should be divided, and who +shall resist his will? Yâkob, be content to know this!"</p> + +<p>But the Rais boasts of having done something to +mitigate the mutual antipathies of the factions. "The +<i>Shamātah</i>, between them," he says, "has had its neck +broken." And really, if it be the case, there is in this +some compensation for the wrongs and miseries which +the Turks are inflicting upon an impoverished and over +burthened people. In other parts of Northern Sahara +similar factions exist, often arising from chance divisions +of towns. There is a similar division of the town of +Ghabs in Tunis, but not carried to such extreme lengths as +these factions of Ghadames. It would seem that society +could not exist without party and divisions no more than +a British Parliament. Even Scripture intimates there +must be strifes and divisions.</p> + +<p>Many came to me to hear the news from Tripoli and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-193" id="V1-193"></a>[<a href="images/1-193.png">193</a>]</span> +Algeria. I found them all interested in the fate and +fortunes of the latter country. Some vague rumours +had reached them of serious and bloody skirmishes. I +calmed them, telling them "all people were on an equal +footing in Algeria, Christians as Mussulmans, even as +Mussulmans were in our British India." Some doubted +my information. Late in the evening, when the visitors of +the Rais had retired, I had a tête-à-tête with his Excellency. +Speaking of the Ghadamseeah, his Excellency +said, "They are ignorant and know not the <i>tareek</i> (<i>i. e.</i>, +system) of the Sultan; they magnify every trifle of news +they hear, and are now alive to every change, and in +feverish expectation of some new event." This is always +the case with the oppressed; they must love change, if +but for the worse. His Excellency then continued: +"Since the forced contribution of fifty thousand dollars, no +money is to be found. The money due for the past +four months is still uncollected." Speaking of the bandits, +his Excellency said, "The Pasha has written to me +that he cannot allow me, or the Commandant of The +Mountains, to march out against the <i>Sebâah</i> or <i>Shânbah</i>, +without an order from the Sultan, but with such an order +we could soon exterminate them." Our Rais does not +entirely neglect the intellectual edification of his Desert +subjects. This evening, early, he amused them with +talking about steamboats, or "boats of fire." I put in +a word about railroads, telling them with a railway we +could come from Tripoli to Ghadames in two days. "The +Christians know all things but God," said a Marabout.</p> + +<p><i>20th.</i>—Weather is now cool, and I can walk about +the gardens at mid-day without inconvenience. I enjoy +this much, amusing myself with throwing stones at the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-194" id="V1-194"></a>[<a href="images/1-194.png">194</a>]</span> +ripe dates, which fall in luscious clusters into one's +mouth. Eating fruit in the gardens or from the trees is +also a peculiar delight enjoyed by people of all countries +and climates. Several of the people are so ignorant +of printing that they call my newspapers letters, and this +is natural enough, as there are no other but manuscript +books amongst them.—‮سمعان الابرص‬, "Simon <i>the +Leper</i>" (Matt. xxvi.). It is usual here to distinguish +people in this way: as "Mohammed, <i>the one-eyed</i>," +"Ahmed, <i>the lame-with-one-leg</i>," and "Mustapha, <i>the +red-beard</i>." So the famous pirate of the Mediterranean +was called "<i>Barbarossa</i>." The people are not at all +ashamed of being called by their natural deformities, as +we are in Europe. <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads '‮قهقم‬'">‮قمقم‬</ins> is one of the numerous words +in Arabic where the sound corresponds with the sense. +<i>Ghemghem</i> is, "to murmur," and the English word itself +is not a bad example of the kind. The Mussulmans +have very grotesque notions of the Christian doctrine of +Trinity. A person said: "Do not the Christians say +God has a Son?" "Yes," I replied. The rejoinder was, +"That is making God like a bullock (‮بقر‬)!" My friend +the Touatee, a native of Touat, tells me the Touaricks +were originally from Timbuctoo, and so say all Touat +Touaricks. The ghafalah just arrived from Tripoli has +brought eighty camel-loads of barley. Observed the +head of the little son of the Touarick bandit. Fancied +it was really the infantile cast of such a parent's head. +This is the danger of the science, prejudicing you in +such matters.</p> + +<p>Apparently, what little thieving there is going on here +is committed by the Arabs and slaves. There are three +or four of these latter most determined date stealers.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-195" id="V1-195"></a>[<a href="images/1-195.png">195</a>]</span> +One of these slaves was brought up yesterday and received +two hundred bastinadoes; but it had not much +effect upon him. When these offenders become incurable, +the Rais packs them off to Tripoli. A very good plan, +which keeps the country free of offences of petty larceny. +However, many of these slaves steal because +they have not enough to eat: thus we come to the old +circle again, that poverty is the mother of crime. So is +it with the Arabs and slaves of Ghadames. The slaves +are mostly devout, if not fanatic Mussulmans. They +have a right to be fanatical, for their religion is a great +protection to them. Their masters, not like the <i>Christian</i> +slave-masters of the Southern States of America, +who close the Bible against the slave, are also proud of +the fanaticism of their slaves, and teach them verses of +the Koran. The slave's conception of the dogmas of his +religion is slow and confused. My Negro Said is a good +Mussulman, and keeps his fast well, but I never yet +caught him at his prayers, nor does he go much to the +mosque. Yesterday I came suddenly upon two youngsters, +the Rais's slaves, who at mid-day were devouring +roasted locusts and drinking water, in the style of +sumptuous feasting. I called out, "Holloa! how now? +are you feasting or fasting?" They began laughing and +then handed me some roast locusts, to bribe me not to +blab. My taleb caught a slave in my house eating also +roasted locusts, and asked him if he should like to be +roasted in hell-fire?</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i>—The old blind man is the most regular patient. +The novelty of being doctored or quacked by a Christian +is wearing away. Wrote to-day to Mr. Gagliuffi, British +Vice-Consul of Mourzuk. Said, in visiting his friends,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-196" id="V1-196"></a>[<a href="images/1-196.png">196</a>]</span> +for he has now <i>his circle</i>, brought me a present of <i>Danzagou</i>, +in Arabic <i>Kashkash</i>. This is a seed of the size +of a large hip, and of a beautiful scarlet colour; it is +used sometimes as medicine, mostly for necklace beads, +and is native of Soudan, where it abounds. He also +brought some <i>Morrashee</i>, in Arabic <i>Jidglan</i>. This is a +species of millet, a product of Soudan. The Blacks, +Moors, and Arabs all eat it with <i>gusto</i>. There are +several varieties of edible seed brought over The Desert +from Soudan, chiefly as Saharan luxuries. Had a long +conversation with the people of the <i>Ben-Weleed</i>, and +found them extremely sociable. One of them had been +to Leghorn, and described the houses as seven stories +high, and the port <i>free</i>. These were his strongest impressions. +It is worth observing here the universal freemasonry +of the mercantile spirit. As a merchant, he +could understand and recollect a free-port in any part of +the world. The honour of this anecdote have the +Leaguers.</p> + +<p>A man showed me a sore place on his arm, which he +called <i>Arak</i><a name="FNa_1-30" id="FNa_1-30"></a><a href="#FoN_1-30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a><i>-El-Abeed</i> (‮عرك العبيد‬). This was a large +raised pimple, in the centre of which was an opening, +and from which aperture there issued from time to time +a very fine worm, like the finest silk-thread, and sometimes +not much thicker than a spider's web, in small +detached lengths. This worm is often of the enormous +length of twenty yards, gradually oozing out piecemeal. +It is a common disease of Soudan where the merchants<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-197" id="V1-197"></a>[<a href="images/1-197.png">197</a>]</span> +catch the infection, and bring it over The Desert. It is +said to be acquired principally by drinking the waters of +that country.</p> + +<p>By the wars before the occupation of the Turks, Tripoli +had become exhausted of its wealth, and its trade +and agriculture were at the lowest ebb. The country +was divided into two armed factions of the ancient +family, money was borrowed at the most extravagant, and +sometimes 500 per cent. interest, and the jewels of the ancient +family were bartered away for arms and provisions, +to carry on the war. A large collection of splendid +diamonds were sold for something like an old song. +Most of these got into the hands of Europeans. I saw +some in the hands of an European gentleman, who +assured me that he had been fortunate enough to get +them for a fourth, and some of them for a seventh, of +their value. When the Turks usurped the Government, +such was the condition of the country. But they +had also to put down a formidable rebellion of the Arabs, +which occupied several years of exterminating war. +This gave the <i>coup de grâce</i> to the unfortunate Regency +of Tripoli, and plunged it into complete ruin. There +was, however, one city, far in The Desert, which appeared +unaffected by these sanguinary and wasting +revolutions—the holy-merchant-marabout city of Ghadames! +the pacific character of whose inhabitants seemed +to place it without the pale of such dire turmoils. But +the Turks (the war with the Arabs ended, and at leisure) +began to look about, and thought they saw an +Eldorado looming beautifully in the <i>mirage</i> of The +Desert, which would speedily replenish their exhausted +treasures, and put the Government of Tripoli in easy<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-198" id="V1-198"></a>[<a href="images/1-198.png">198</a>]</span> +pecuniary circumstances. A pretext was soon found to +excavate in this newly discovered Desert mine. "The +people of Ghadames," said the Pashas of Tripoli, "are +rebels—they sympathized with the Arabs—they did +not come forward to help us to exterminate the Arabs—they +must now pay for their disaffection." A forced +contribution was therefore immediately levied upon them +of 50,000 mahboubs and upwards, and the women and +children were stripped of their gold and silver ornaments, +and houses ransacked, to make up the amount at +once. Ten thousand mahboubs were also demanded annually. +This new demand threw the city into consternation, +and the men brought out the women and the children +into the streets, who fell upon their faces before +the officers of the Pasha, and implored them not to +deprive their wives and children of bread. It was at +last settled they should pay 6,250 mahboubs, as an annual +contribution. Under the Caramanly dynasty they +paid only some 850 mahboubs per annum, besides being +left to the uncontrolled management of their own affairs. +Now, whilst the people are complaining of the large +amount of taxation imposed upon them, and pleading +their impossibility to pay up arrears—in this irritable +state of things—an order comes from Ahmed Effendi in +The Mountains, to collect an additional contribution of +3,225 mahboubs, under the pretext of its being wanted +to maintain troops in Fezzan, and keep open the communications +of commerce. This intelligence has so completely +astounded the few remaining merchants who have +any money, that they nearly lost their senses, yesterday +and to-day, being very ill, and unable to attend to their +ordinary business. The money for the last four months<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-199" id="V1-199"></a>[<a href="images/1-199.png">199</a>]</span> +is not yet collected, and the people say they cannot pay +up. Our Rais has three times represented to the Pasha +the inability of the people, but the answer always is, +"<i>money must be had</i>." I expect to witness some cruel +scenes of extortion practised before I leave this place, +like what I saw in The Mountains<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: removed superfluous quotation mark">.</ins> I observe now the +Rais can't keep a respectable collector. <i>No native of +Ghadames will collect for him.</i> Sometimes he sends the +Arab soldiers, who abuse the defaulters. Once an Arab +soldier got hold of a poor man in the street, an acquaintance +of mine, to drag him off before the Rais. I +told him to stop a moment, and then having ascertained +how much it was—about one shilling and eight-pence—paid +the money and got the poor fellow clear this time. +Sheikh Makouran is a true patriot. Whenever he sees +anybody dragged off in this way through the streets, in +spite of the Governor, and his being a member of the +Divan, he takes upon himself to impede the course of +justice (<i>extortion?</i>), abuses with all his might the officer, +and if he can't rescue the defaulter, pays the money +himself: so strives for public liberty this Hampden of +The Desert!</p> + +<p>To-day, had a proof of the rancorous enmity of the +ancient factions. A merchant of the Ben Welleed, who +wished to visit me, said, "I must come round the city, +for <i>I don't know</i> the streets of the Ben Wezeet. Thank +God! I never went through them in my life." This he +said with vehemence, intimating that he never would +enter the streets of the Ben Wezeet as long as he lived. +A ghafalah has arrived from the oases of Fezzan, bringing +corn and dates, productions abundant in those countries.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-200" id="V1-200"></a>[<a href="images/1-200.png">200</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>22nd.</i>—Weather continues cool. Few more patients. +Present of dates from one of them. Very little meat +now killed in Ghadames, less and less every day. What +will become of this once flourishing city it is hard to tell. +The prejudices of the people against the residence of an +European in this city have apparently disappeared; +people are increasingly civil; many would willingly look +upon me as their protector, were I made Consul, but +unfortunately for them, I am not ambitious of, nor have +any inclination for, the honour.</p> + +<p>This morning heard a curious opinion about Younas, +or Jonas (Jonah), for the Arabs, like the Greeks<a name="FNa_1-31" id="FNa_1-31"></a><a href="#FoN_1-31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a>, sometimes +change the last letter of the Hebrew ה into a <ins class="grk" title="Greek: S">Σ</ins>. +Probably they got their traditions through the Greeks or +the Greek language. I was talking with a taleb about +longevity, when he observed, "There is but one person +who is always alive." "Who is that?" I inquired very +anxiously. "It is our lord Jonas, who is living in +<i>distant</i> and <i>unknown</i> parts of the world," he said. "Is +he alone?" I further inquired. "No," he added, "he +has with him a hundred thousand people, who live to a +great age, but who at last die, whilst he is always living. +Then as to Jesus, the son of Mary, he also never died, +and went up to heaven alive. The Jews (the curse of +God upon them!) only killed his <i>likeness</i>." I have +always observed these mysterious events to transpire in +some <i>unknown</i> and <i>distant</i> part of the world, and took +the liberty of telling this taleb that the "smoke-ships" +(steamers) could soon make every place in the world +near and known, and then we might find out the resi<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-201" id="V1-201"></a>[<a href="images/1-201.png">201</a>]</span>dence +of Jonah as well as the captivity of the ten tribes. +The story of the ten tribes is pretty well known. A +Maroquine rabbi told me they are somewhere about the +regions of Gog and Magog, in Central Asia, situate in a +country where there is a river running perpetually six +days out of seven, very rapid and full of stones, so that +they cannot pass it and return to the Holy Land. On +the seventh it stops, when it might be passed, but on the +Sabbath day the law does not permit them to travel. +This is the Barbary version. Central Asia is still the +land of mysteries for both Jews and Mohammedans. +The Russians have done little to dispel these mysteries, +if they have not tried to envelop these lands in profounder +obscurity, for political purposes; but had we +been established in Affghanistan, we might have discovered +<i>Jibel Kaf</i>, the retreat of Gog and Magog, the +strange stony river, the ten tribes, and all the other +objects of Jewish and Mohammedan superstition. But +as with the famous gardens of the Hesperides, the abode +of perfectly happy mortals, which were shifted farther +and farther from actual observation by the progress of +ancient discovery, so the mysterious retreat of the ten +tribes and the ever-living Jonas will be transferred to +other unknown lands when modern discovery shall have +exhausted Central Asia.</p> + +<p>Met Sheikh Makouran: asked him what was to be +done to meet the extraordinary contribution. He said +he couldn't tell, people had no money: Rais had so +written to Tripoli, but was reprimanded by the Pasha. +Advised him to send a deputation to the Pasha, or the +British Consul-General. Had another example of the +bad system of collecting monies, as often in Mahometan<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-202" id="V1-202"></a>[<a href="images/1-202.png">202</a>]</span> +States, by means of common soldiers. These fellows do +all the dirty jobs, everything necessary in the way of +extortion; the more respectable officials shun these disagreeable +transactions, especially if they be natives of +the place where the taxes are collected. A great disturbance +was in the streets, the people almost fighting +with these extortioner ruffians. Going farther on, something +absolutely ludicrous happened. The soldiers could +not read, no person would read their papers for them, +and they could not find out the person on whom they +were to make their demands, although the parties were +actually present. They then came to me to read their +papers. I asked them, "Whether they thought it showed +any of the friendship which they professed towards me +to embroil me with the people of the country, whose +hospitality I was receiving?" They were so convinced +of the justice of my appeal, that they went off without +replying. A Ghadamsee peasant called to me, "Yâcob, +you must be our Consul!"</p> + +<p>Afternoon, Essnousee left for Ghat. Being extremely +attached to this merchant, I went to see him off. About +thirty of the Ben Weleed (for he is of this faction) accompanied +him, the most respectable of this division of the +the city; I was glad to see a person, in whom hereafter +I might have to place implicit confidence, so much +esteemed. His friends set to and loaded his camel +before starting, as many as could find any thing, each +taking an article of harness or equipment. This I +observed often afterwards. It is reckoned friendly. +By such conduct they show they are willing to render all +the assistance in their power to their friend. I continued +on the route of Ghat with Essnousee half an hour<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-203" id="V1-203"></a>[<a href="images/1-203.png">203</a>]</span> +or more, bade him farewell and returned. His brothers +and a slave left him with me. The merchant then proceeded +on his desert journey of some fifteen or twenty +days <i>absolutely alone</i>, for he had only a Touarick camel-driver. +This demonstrates the security of the route. I +said to the people afterwards, "Is he not afraid to go +alone?" "No," was the answer, "they will only meet +Touaricks, and these are our friends. You have only to +pay a small trifle of toll in different parts of the route +and you are quite safe. Sometimes you don't pay this." +Essnousee will reach Ghat in twelve, whilst a quick caravan +requires from eighteen to twenty days. With first-rate +camels the journey could be performed in <i>eight</i> or ten days. +Strange infatuation! I felt an almost irrepressible desire +to accompany Essnousee <i>as I was</i>, and to plunge anew +into all the hardships and dangers of The Desert. But +such is man, a creature of daring or absurd impulses! +and the more he moves, and roams, and rambles, the +more (in modern phrase) <i>locomotive</i> he is—the less he +likes repose, and seeks unceasingly such perilous stimulants. +Observed, on returning, amongst the loose stones +scattered upon the surface of The Desert, a great quantity +of rubbish, like brick-bats thrown out from a brick-kiln, +giving the face of the ground a burnt and volcanic +appearance. Picked some up and could hardly believe +but what they were burnt bricks. The Ben Weleed, +who accompanied Essnousee, instead of the short and +direct road through the streets of the Ben Wezeet, took +a circuitous route round the inner walls of the city to +arrive at the gate of departure, showing me how great +was still the force of these factions. Essnousee himself +told me he never went through the streets of the Ben<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-204" id="V1-204"></a>[<a href="images/1-204.png">204</a>]</span> +Wezeet, nor did he expect he ever should in this +world.</p> + +<p><i>24th.</i>—Yesterday and to-day employed in writing for +the <i>Shantah</i> (Turkish, for mail). Rais in a good humour +this evening. Two camels came in from The Sahara, one +day's journey, laden with wood for the Rais. His Excellency +offered some to me. The fact is, I purchased a camel-load +a few days ago, and his Excellency's servants had +nearly begged it all away. People generally burn dried +and dead branches of the palm, which, in this season, is +abundant. It is not good fire-wood; there is plenty of +flame and smoke, but little heat. Said, on my return +from the Rais, assures me he has heard from his visitors, +the Touarick slaves, that now the Touaricks do not beat +their slaves, but esteem all men <i>souwa, souwa</i>, ("equal"); +it was not so in former times. Free and enlightened +America may have yet to learn lessons of freedom and +humanity from the savages of The Sahara!</p> + +<p>Purchased a <i>Thob</i><a name="FNa_1-32" id="FNa_1-32"></a><a href="#FoN_1-32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a>, a species of large lizard. It is +common in The Sahara. The Touaricks eat them, and +say they are <i>medicine</i> for a pain or weakness in the +back. This may have been surmised from the ideal +resemblance between the strength of their backs, which is +scaly and bony, and strongly bound together, and the +strength it is likely to communicate unto persons having +a weak or crippled spine. They are pretty good eating, +and taste something like the kid of the goat; the tail is +esteemed the greatest delicacy. I tasted of this which I +bought, and liked it. There is no lizard of this species +in Soudan. A Touarick told me that, having found one<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-205" id="V1-205"></a>[<a href="images/1-205.png">205</a>]</span> +in The Desert, he carried it to Soudan, where a Negro +prince fell in love with it, and gave him for it the present +of a young female slave. The Arabs tame the +Thob, and he grows very fond. Some of them are very +large. This I purchased is only twenty inches in length, +and about ten round the thickest part of the body. The +head is large and tortoise-shaped, with a small mouth. It +is covered with scales, or "scaly mail," and its tail is about +four inches long, composed of a series of broad thick and +sharp bones. It has four feet, or rather <i>hands</i>, for, as +the Arabs say, "It has hands like <i>Ben-Adam</i> (mankind)." +All the body, back and flanks, are covered by +shining scales, of the colour of a darked-spotted grey, +with spots white and light under the belly. It runs +very awkwardly on account of its bulky tail, and to look +at is a miniature aligator or crocodile. It is almost +harmless, fighting a little now and then; its appearance, +however, is rather forbidding. It hides in the dry sandy +holes of The Sahara. A drop of water, say the Arabs, +would hurt it. The traditions of the Mohammedans +mention that Mahomet did not himself eat the Thob, at +the same time he did not prohibit it to his followers. +The Saharan merchants, in traversing The Desert, frequently +make a good meal of the Thob. Whilst talking +of the Thob, the people said the flesh of parrots was +<i>poison</i> for Ben-Adam.</p> + +<p><i>25th.</i>—Another of my patients dead, of a raging +fever caught, it is said, "by sleeping on the top of the +house in the open air." The moon struck him, they say. +According to the Psalms, "The sun shall not smite thee +by day, nor <i>the moon by night</i>."</p> + +<p>They let him remain seven days without sending for<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-206" id="V1-206"></a>[<a href="images/1-206.png">206</a>]</span> +me, when it was too late to administer my fever powders. +I fetched an old gentleman who could bleed to have him +bled, but they refused, saying it was now late. The +old blood-letter vexed at their refusal, said, "Well, if I +mustn't bleed him, let me pray for him;" and, immediately +offered up a short prayer, in which they all joined +willingly. On telling a Ghadamsee I ate some Thob, he +said, "Ah, that's forbidden; the Thob was formerly a +human being, before it had its present shape. Don't you +see its hands are still <i>human</i>?" The notion of the +transmigration of souls lingers in these parts, but it is a +doctrine not generally received. I observed this man +afterwards fattening his sheep with date-stones, broken +into small pieces. Almost every family, however small, +have their sheep to fatten. Pounded date-stones are also +given to camels for fattening. Writing for amusement +with my taleb, I recollected a verse in the Koran, which +I wrote:—</p> + +<p class="figcenter">‮ارسلناك الّا رحمة للعلمين‬</p> + +<p>This filled him with surprise and horror, and he immediately +scratched it out, as too pure and holy a thing to +be in the possession of an Infidel. The translation is:—"We +(God) have sent thee (Mahomet) only for mercy to +mankind;" or, "Thy mission to man, O Mahomet! is +only mercy." Such credit all impostors and pretenders +to revelation claim for themselves, and such an object +they declare to be the end of their mission, although at +the same time, and in the same breath, they don't forget +to doom all those who reject their authority to perdition. +This, it would seem, is a necessary evil in propagating +new religions and new sects. But enough of this—may<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-207" id="V1-207"></a>[<a href="images/1-207.png">207</a>]</span> +the world grow more kindly—let us hope it will. This +morning arrived a single Arab from Fezzan. It would +appear extreme hardihood when we reflect, that for nine +days, there is not a house, and scarcely a resting-place. +The Arab was mounted on a camel. This arrival, as +Essnousee's departure, shows the security of the routes +in some directions. The Arab told me he made his +journey in nine days, and stopped occasionally on the +road to sleep and refresh himself. In the night he tied +his camel's leg to his own leg, so that if it attempted to +stray, it would awake him.</p> + +<p>Nothing new with Rais. Speaking of the Arabs, he +says, "You know Arabs to be very devils. There are +two ways to consider Arabs, but whichever way they +are robbers and assassins. When they are famished, they +plunder in order to eat; when their bellies are full, they +plunder because they kick and are insolent. Now, we +(Turks) keep them upon low diet in The Mountains; they +have little, and always a little food. This is the Sultan's +<i>tareek</i> (government) to manage them. Their +spirits are kept down and broken, and they are submissive." +He then told me he had held a Divan to obtain +the extra contribution of 3,200 mahboubs, for the Pasha; +but the people protested they could not pay such an +amount. I wrote a letter to Colonel Warrington, stating +this circumstance, and asked him if he could assist the +people in any way. I thought it a bare possibility that +the hand of foreign diplomacy might be stretched out to +save this city, which had flourished in the pursuits of its +own peaceful commerce for more than a thousand years. . . . To +mitigate the apparent harshness of his demand, +the Rais observed, that before the Sultan occupied<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-208" id="V1-208"></a>[<a href="images/1-208.png">208</a>]</span> +Ghadames, the country between this and Tripoli was +full of banditti. "The Arabs of The Mountains," he +added, "were all banditti, those amongst whom you +resided eight days. The Touaricks were not so bad, they +generally protected Ghadamsee merchants. Now since +the Sultan, there are only the Shânbah and the Sebâah, +therefore the Ghadamseeah must pay." So, <i>Audi alteram +partem</i>.</p> + +<p><i>26th.</i>—To-day, resident thirty days in Ghadames +which time I have certainly not lost. Written a good +deal of MS., such as it is, and several letters; besides, +applied myself to reading and writing Arabic. Likewise +distributed medicines to a considerable number of invalids. +Wish to pass the next month as profitably as the +month gone. My expenses of living, including a guard to +sleep in the house at night, and Said, are only at the +rate of eighteen-pence per day; this, however, excludes +tea, coffee, and sugar. Besides, Sheikh Makouran refuses +to take anything for house-rent, saying, "It would be +against the will of God to receive money from you, who +are our sure friend, and our guest of hospitality." Few +patients, in comparison with the past. As the winter +approaches, the cases of ophthalmia are less. In the +precipitation of leaving Tripoli, brought little ink with +me, and most of that I gave away; so am obliged to go +about the town to beg a little. The custom is, when +one person wants ink, he begs it of another. Went to +Ben Weleed, who procured me a supply.</p> + +<p>My intercourse has been mostly with Ben Wezeet, +but to day I visited <i>Ben Weleed</i> at the <i>Bab-Es-Sagheer</i>, +("the little gate,") or the <i>Bab-Es-Saneeah</i>, ("the gate +of the garden,") where there were about forty of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-209" id="V1-209"></a>[<a href="images/1-209.png">209</a>]</span> +most respectable of this faction assembled in a sort of gossiping +divan amongst themselves. They told me they met +here every morning, and chatted over the news of the previous +day. Usually they meet just after sunrise, and certainly +in this way they pass a cool and fragrant hour, full +of the odoriferous breathings of the gardens as the day is +awakening. I asked one, who were the richer, the +Weleed or the Wezeet? He replied, with an honourable +frankness, "The <i>Wezeet</i>." Observed many of the men +had their eyelids blackened, like the women, with <i>Kohel</i><a name="FNa_1-33" id="FNa_1-33"></a><a href="#FoN_1-33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a>, +and also their finger-nails and toe-nails dyed dark-red +with henna<a name="FNa_1-34" id="FNa_1-34"></a><a href="#FoN_1-34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a>. I confessed I was surprised at this monstrous +effeminacy. One of these <i>lady</i>-gentlemen was the +son of the powerful Ettanee family; he was brought up +to the Church, and of great promise, bidding fair to be +future Kady or Archbishop. He put a curious question +to me, "How much is the expense of a journey from +Malta to Constantinople?" When I satisfied him, he +said, "I shall go and buy some slaves at Ghat, and then +convey them to Constantinople. Don't you think I shall +make money by it?" I told him he would not find +anybody at Malta to convey slaves to Constantinople; +and if he took them there, they would be set at liberty, for +a slave once touching British territory became free. To +this he replied only, "I know—I knew before." I was +extremely glad he did know it. It is strange to see a +young man of this description so avariciously turn himself<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-210" id="V1-210"></a>[<a href="images/1-210.png">210</a>]</span> +into a slave-dealer, but Mohammedan priests frequently +trade.</p> + +<p>Marabouts in The Mountains are mostly camel-drivers; +and the greater part of priests, marabouts, and kadys +perform sacred duties gratis. An order of priesthood +exists, though it is not kept up very distinctly from laymen, +but it is an honour to them, "to work in the service +of God for nothing," and is worthy of the imitation of +Christians. My new clerical friend gave me a dissertation +upon things having two names, a classical one and +a vulgar one. The Kohel is also called <i>Athmed</i>, ‮اثمد‬, +which is its classical name. Senna is called <i>hasheeshah</i>, +‮حشيشه‬, literally "herbs," its vulgar name, and ‮سنا حرم‬, +"senna of <i>Mecca</i>," (literally, of the inviolable,) which is +its classical name. A little senna is found casually in +the gardens of Ghadames; but the country of Senna, in +The Sahara, is Aheer, where it is cultivated by the +Touaricks. He pointed out to me the <i>Tout</i>, (‮توت‬,) the +small white mulberry, which is planted in little squares +of the city. Speaking of the Touaricks, he said: "These +people are getting dissatisfied with us. Formerly we +paid them better; but being robbed of our money by +the Turks, we can't give them much. They smell also a +disagreeable odour now. Formerly they came in and +went out our city as a garden." "What odour is that?" +I asked. "<i>It's that Rais</i>," he whispered in my ear. The +fact is, the Touaricks felt themselves more at home before +the Turks came here, which everybody can imagine.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-09.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-09_th.jpg" alt="Bas-Relief" title="Bas-Relief" /></a></p> + +<p>This afternoon, whilst talking with the people about +their antiquities, one of them said, "There are some +figures remaining." I immediately asked him to show +them to me. The youngster volunteered; and, to my<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-211" id="V1-211"></a>[<a href="images/1-211.png">211</a>]</span> +great joy, I was taken off to a garden, where I saw the +<i>bas-relief</i> drawn above. I then thought about getting it +in a quiet way to my house; so I went up to the owner +of the garden in which it lay, and said to him in a very +careless, indifferent manner, "What's the good of the +stone to you—you may give it me; perhaps it will be of +some use." The man replied at once, "Aye, Christian, +take it." The youngster, who was a stout fellow, brought +it off forthwith upon his head. I followed him in secret +triumph, thinking myself very fortunate; for if any noise +had been made, I should have had to pay several dollars +for it, whatever might have been its real value, and, perhaps, +not have got it at all. Indeed, some of the people +were very jealous; and when I returned, they called out +<i>flous! flous!</i> ("money! money!") They thought I +had got a rich prize, and I hope I have. I told them, if +anybody had any <i>flous</i>, it would be the owner of the +garden, who gave me the slab. The sketch represents, +apparently, a soldier holding or feeding a horse, but of +what age and country I shall not pretend to say, leaving<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-212" id="V1-212"></a>[<a href="images/1-212.png">212</a>]</span> +that to antiquarians. It is broken off half, and otherwise +pecked and mutilated by the people. It is a pious act +of religion to deface stones representing figures of any +sort, to decapitate heads of statues, and destroy every +shape and symbol of the human likeness, not excepting +likenesses of animals. An old Ghadamsee doctor, +very fond of me, was, however, extremely glad when he +saw me in possession of the slab. He kept saying, "Ah, +Yâkob, that's your grandfathers (ancestors). See! isn't +it wonderful? Ah, that's your grandfathers of the time +of <i>Sidi Nimrod</i>. Take it home with you. Ah, that's +your grandfathers!"</p> + +<p>This evening, heard that the heads of the people of +Ghadames had adopted my suggestion of sending a deputation +to Tripoli, to state their inability to meet the +new and extraordinary demand of 3,200 mahboubs, the +Governor consenting to their determination.</p> + +<p><i>27th.</i>—Weather still cool and pleasant, but the flies +are in great numbers, and very disagreeable. Am +obliged always to have my room darkened when I write, +to keep them from tormenting me. They increase as the +dates ripen, and soon after the dates are gathered in, +they disappear, and not one is to be found during the +winter. Haj Mansour gave me to-day a <i>meneshsha</i> +(‮منشّا‬) or fly-flap, made of the long flowing beard of +the Wadan. It is a most effective whipper-away of the +flies. It instantly disperses them, the fine strong hair of +the Wadan's beard hitting them like pins and needles. +This species of fly-flap is greatly valued in Soudan, where +it sells at a high price. The hairs which are of a dull grey +or red brown, are usually dyed with henna when made +up into fly-flaps. I expressed myself extremely obliged<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-213" id="V1-213"></a>[<a href="images/1-213.png">213</a>]</span> +to the Haj. <i>Wadan</i> (Ar. ‮ودان‬), <i>Oudad</i> (Berber ‮اوداد‬), +and English <i>Mouflon</i>, is the name of a species of animals +between the goat and the bullock<a name="FNa_1-35" id="FNa_1-35"></a><a href="#FoN_1-35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a>. It is common in the +Southern Atlas of Morocco, and is hunted in the neighbouring +sands of Ghadames during winter by the Souf +Arabs, and brought in and sold for butcher's meat. +Wadan is said to be <i>medicine</i> by the people, and tastes +like high flavoured coarse venison. Three or four only +have been sent to England<a name="FNa_1-36" id="FNa_1-36"></a><a href="#FoN_1-36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a>. Dr. Russell, in his <i>Barbary +States</i>, makes it to <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'resembles'">resemble</ins> a calf, but it rather +resembles a large goat or a horned sheep. Besides the +<i>Wadan</i> and the <i>Thob</i>, Saharan people eat many animals +which hungry Europeans might eat, amongst the rest +rats and mice, when in good condition. But the mouse +is the large mouse of The Sahara. The Rais had a live +Wadan which died just before my arrival. He regretted +much as he would have given it to me. His Excellency +promises to get me one.</p> + +<p><i>Nimrod</i> is always in the mouths of the Ghadamseeah +as the founder of their city. They are especially fond +of calling him a <i>Christian</i>. He is often called my grandfather, +although I have not yet been able to trace my +descent in a direct line from so august a progenitor. The +European reader recollects where he is mentioned in +the Jewish early records,—</p> + +<p class="figcenter">‮הוּא הָיָה נִבּר֗־צַיִד לִפְנֵי־יְהוָה‬</p> + +<p>"He was a mighty hunter before the Lord." Gen. x. 9. +In the Arabic translation the word employed for<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-214" id="V1-214"></a>[<a href="images/1-214.png">214</a>]</span> +"mighty" is the same as that of the Hebrew, <i>i. e.</i> ‮جبّار‬ +the ‮ج‬ representing the ‮ג‬, omitting any word to correspond +with ‮ציד‬; but the Moors understand generally by +the term ‮جبّار‬, "a tyrant" and "a conqueror." So +Hammoudah Bashaw, the great Bey of Tunis, is called +by a faithful Tunisian historian of that country, a ‮جبّار‬. +But, perhaps, in those remote times, the hunter and the +tyrant, as in the Roman Commodus, were joined in one +and the same person. Certainly this is the natural sense +of the combination of the terms ‮גבר־ציד‬. To this might +easily be added man-hunter and slave-maker, a worthy +attribute of Nimrod. The gentlemen of the turf, of the +Bentinck school, ought, however to protest against this +supposition. Properly Nimrod is the Hercules of the +Moors of North Africa. According to them he emerged +from the East, overran and founded several cities in The +Sahara, conquered all before him, put his feet upon the +neck of all nations, and then passed the Straits of the +Roman and Grecian Hercules, and built the far-famed +Andalous (Spain), as also Paris and London, and no +doubt planted the germ of the future courses of Epsom +and Ascot, of which he is in our day made the mighty +patron and the ruling god<a name="FNa_1-37" id="FNa_1-37"></a><a href="#FoN_1-37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a>.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-215" id="V1-215"></a>[<a href="images/1-215.png">215</a>]</span></p> +<p>After Nimrod the people are very fond of talking about +<i>Enoch</i>, who is called in the Koran <i>Edrees</i> (‮ادريس‬). +My taleb says that he did not undergo the penalty of +nature, but was translated, as, indeed, it is recorded of +him in our sacred books. My taleb adds, "Enoch was +a tailor, and one day the devil came to him and offered +to sell him some eggs, declaring that in the eggs the +whole world was included. Enoch rejoined, '<i>Also in the</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-216" id="V1-216"></a>[<a href="images/1-216.png">216</a>]</span> +<i>eye of my needle is the whole world comprehended</i>.' +Immediately the eggs began to expand, and although +really empty, swelled out as wide as the arms when +outstretched. Enoch seeing this was all imposition, to +punish the impostor, sewed up one of the devil's eyes, +who went off in a great rage. The needle of Enoch was +nevertheless all powerful, and the devil has gone about +with <i>one eye</i> ever since." My taleb asked me whether I +ever heard of Noah. I opened the Arabic Bible and +read some passages about the Flood. "Yes," he said, +"Seedna (<i>our lord</i>) Noah was a carpenter (‮نجّار‬) +because he built the ship (‮الفلك‬). I am also a carpenter. +I will show you my collection of tools. But I +don't work now at this trade, except for my amusement." +The people know many of the common trades which +they exercise occasionally as amateurs.</p> + +<p>Nothing puzzles the Touaricks and Negroes so much as +my <i>gloves</i>. Am obliged to put them on and off frequently +a dozen times a day, for their especial gratification. +My Leghorn hat, on the contrary, here, as in +The Mountains, is an object of admiration, on account of +the fineness of the platting. It astonishes them how it +could be done. The large straw hats, with huge broad +brims, worn in The Desert, are all of the coarsest +texture.</p> + +<p>This morning made inquiries of the Touaricks respecting +serpents in The Desert. Could obtain but little +information, the notions of the Saharan tribes in general +being very confused about serpents. All serpents go +under the name of <i>lefâah</i> (‮لفعة‬). But other names are +in use here, as ‮حنش حية‬ &c., which apparently are the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-217" id="V1-217"></a>[<a href="images/1-217.png">217</a>]</span> +generic names. The <i>boah</i> mentioned by Dr. Russell I +have not heard of. One of the Touaricks, however, +described to me a serpent as being nearly as thick round +as a man's body, but not more than three feet in its +greatest length. This serpent has also large horns. It +is not at all dangerous. There is a much longer serpent +or snake, but not more than four inches round in thickness, +which is dangerous. If we are to believe Mr. +Jackson, the southern part of Morocco abounds with +monstrous serpents, but in all my route through The +Sahara, I met with none, nor heard of any. It is a very +old trick of the poets and retailers of the marvellous to +people The Desert with dragons, and serpents, and +monsters of every kind. We know that on the banks of +the <i>Majerdah</i> an enormous serpent stopped the progress +of the army of Regulus. Batouta, also, who flourished +in the fourteenth century, pretends that "The Desert is +full of serpents." Even Caillié, who saw neither lions +nor elephants, or very few animals of any sort, says, +when at the wells of <i>Amoul-Gragim</i>, "My rest was +disturbed by the appearance of a serpent, five feet and +a-half long and as thick as the thigh of a boy twelve +years old. My travelling companions also experienced +similar visits." If this report be correct, it evidently +refers to the harmless <i>lefâah</i> mentioned by the Touarick. +At the ruins of Lebida, on the coast of Tripoli, an +unusual number of large snakes were seen this year +(1845), mounting upon and twining round the broken +shafts of pillars still standing, as if at the command of +some invisible <i>jinn</i>; but they were all perfectly harmless. +The jugglers were catching them, to exhibit their forky<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-218" id="V1-218"></a>[<a href="images/1-218.png">218</a>]</span> +tongues and snaky folds, as venomous and deadly, to the +marvel-loving crowd. The lion of The Desert is a myth. +The king of beasts never leaves his rich domain, the +thick forest and pouring cascade, where water and +animals of prey abound, for the naked, arid, sandy, and +rocky wastes of The Sahara. The ancients and moderns, +however, have persisted in representing Africa, not only +as a country full of monsters, but "<i>always producing +some new monster</i>,—"</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Semper aliquid novi Africam afferre<a name="FNa_1-38" id="FNa_1-38"></a><a href="#FoN_1-38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a>,</span> +</div></div> + +<p>all which is either entirely incorrect or a monstrous +exaggeration. It would have been very <i>nice</i> to fight +one's way through The Desert in the midst of every kind +of beast and monster which the gloomy imagination of +men may have conjured up from the beginning of the +annals of adventure and travel; this would have made +these pages undoubtedly very "stirring and exciting." +Happily Providence has not filled up those vast spaces +which separate Northern and Central Africa with such +hideous tenants! Sufficient are the evils of The Desert +to the wayfarer who sojourns therein.</p> + +<p>In the evening, had a long conversation with a group +of people. The subjects, in which they all felt more +than ordinary curiosity, were, the new world of America, +Australia, the Pacific, and the whales in it, and the +gold and silver mines of South America, &c. The number +of sheep, also, in Australia, amazed them, in comparison +with the few wandering scattered flocks in The<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-219" id="V1-219"></a>[<a href="images/1-219.png">219</a>]</span> +Desert. I am become a walking gazette amongst the +people, and ought to be dubbed "Geographer of The +Desert." They also question me on the relative forces +of the Christian Powers, and have a great idea of the +military strength of France. The capture of Algiers +has produced a vivid and lasting impression of the French +power throughout all North Africa. They consider +England the great power on the sea, and France on the +land. I have, besides, to tell them of the population of +all the world, and to answer a thousand other questions. +Sometimes their conversation, after being exceedingly +animated, falls into unbroken and moody silence, and +they recline for hours, without moving a muscle of the +face or uttering a syllable. Indolence is the besetting +sin of the Saharan tribes. It is also the same in Tripoli. +Col. Warrington, in reporting upon the Tripolines, says:—"Whether +the extraordinary indolence of the people +proceeds from the climate, or want of occupation, I know +not, but they are in an horizontal position twenty hours +out of the twenty-four, sleeping in the open air." In +this temperate season of the year, the Ghadamsees +might find useful and healthful occupation in the gardens, +but they are so confoundedly lazy that they won't +stir, and what work really is done is performed by +slaves. Such people deserve to starve. Caillié says:—"The +Mandingoes would rather go without food part of +the day than work in the fields; they pretend that +labour would take off their attention to the Koran, +which is a very specious excuse for laziness." Like most +people in Central Africa, all their hard work is done by +the poor slaves. The Ghadamsee people have, however,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-220" id="V1-220"></a>[<a href="images/1-220.png">220</a>]</span> +the excuse that, being a city of merchants, their object +is repose when they return from long journeys.</p> + +<p>Paid a visit to Rais; presented to his Excellency one +of my best razors, with which he was highly delighted. +Saw plenty of my acquaintances, all pleased with the +Ramadan being about to terminate. Few patients.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-30" id="FoN_1-30"></a><a href="#FNa_1-30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> The Arabic ‮عرك‬ seems to be used for a pustule or small +tumour. The term is applied to the tumour of a camel. There is +also the term ‮عرق‬, "decayed flesh or bone."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-31" id="FoN_1-31"></a><a href="#FNa_1-31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> ‮يونس‬, <ins class="grk" title="Greek: Iônas">Ἰωνας</ins>. <i>Esaias</i> is changed in the same way.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-32" id="FoN_1-32"></a><a href="#FNa_1-32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> ‮الضب‬, <i>Thob</i>—monitor: probably, <i>monitor pulchra</i>.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-33" id="FoN_1-33"></a><a href="#FNa_1-33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> ‮كحل‬, <i>Kohel</i>, "powder of lead," name derived from the epithet +"<i>black</i>."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-34" id="FoN_1-34"></a><a href="#FNa_1-34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> ‮حنّا‬, <i>Henna</i>, "Lawsonia alba," Law. The Henna shrub is +cultivated in irrigated fields at Ghabs (Tunis), and is a source of +wealth.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-35" id="FoN_1-35"></a><a href="#FNa_1-35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> It is the <i>Ovis Tragelaphus</i> of Zoologists.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-36" id="FoN_1-36"></a><a href="#FNa_1-36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> I was fellow-passenger from Mogador with the male oudad, +now at the Royal Zoological Gardens. He is a very fine animal, +but has but one eye.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-37" id="FoN_1-37"></a><a href="#FNa_1-37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> The foundation of Nimrod's reputation was laid in the East, +many curious facts of which have been preserved in Armenian tradition. +The Armenian Bishop, Dr. Nerses Lazar, says, for the +benefit of all England, (See his <i>Scriptural and Analogical Conversations +on the Physical and Moral World with reference to an Universal +Commercial Harmony</i>, published by Bentley, London, 1846):—"In +the second age of the world, just on entering the second +century, <i>Nimrod began to be a mighty one in the earth</i>; he was the +first great warrior, conqueror, or most severe governor. <i>He was a +mighty hunter before the Lord: wherefore it is said, Even as Nimrod +the mighty hunter before the Lord</i>, by which means he became a +mighty monarch. For he inured himself to labour by this toilsome +exercise, and got together a great company of young robust men to +attend him in this sport; <i>who were hereby also fitted to pursue men +as they had done wild beasts</i>. (Here the Free Kirk will find the +beginning of the system which they are patronizing in Yankee +Land.) Besides, in the age of Nimrod, the exercise of hunting +might win him the hearts of men, whom he thus delivered from +wild beasts, to which they were much exposed in their rude and +unprotected way of living; so that many at last joined him in the +great designs he formed of subduing men, and making himself master +of the neighbouring people in Babylon, Susiana, and Assyria. +The memory of this hunting of his was preserved by the Assyrians, +who made Nimrod the same as Orion, for they joined the dog and +the hare, the first creature perhaps that he hunted, with his constellation. +He first erected Babylon, and Assyria is called the +land of Nimrod, &c., &c. He began to exalt himself, and he is +called <i>Bel</i> from his dominions, and <i>Nimrod</i> from his rebellion +(against God)." The worthy prelate goes on giving a very long +affair about the father of huntsmen and jockies. Nimrod has come +up again in this our year of 1847. The French and English antiquarians +and excavators have dug him up, and all his splendid posterity +from the banks of the Euphrates at the <i>Bir-el-Nimroud</i>. +The <i>Royal Asiatic Society</i> no doubt will soon find his mark, or +cross, His Turfy Highness not being expected to be a <i>letterato</i>, in +Cuneiform, wedge-shaped or arrow-headed characters upon the +unbaked or sun-dried bricks thrown out of the famous Nineveh +mound, so that at last Nimroud will have full justice done him by +a grateful posterity.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-38" id="FoN_1-38"></a><a href="#FNa_1-38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> Pliny. This vulgar error of antiquity is cited from the Greek +of Aristotle. <ins class="grk" title="Greek: Legetai de tis paroima hoti aei ti Libyê kainon.">Λεγεται δε τις παροιμα ὁτι αει τι Λιβυη καινον.</ins></p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-221" id="V1-221"></a>[<a href="images/1-221.png">221</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<h3>FAST OF THE RAMADAN.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Shâanbah and Banditti of The Desert.—Native Plays and +Dances of Ghadamsee Slaves.—Aâween, or Square of Springs.—The +Women of Ghadames, their Habits and Education.—The +Ghadamsee and Berber, or Numidian Languages.—Varieties of +People and Population of Ghadames.—Charge of corrupting +the Scriptures.—Ben Mousa Ettanee.—The Bishop of Gibraltar.—Continue +teaching Geography.—Ruin of the Country.—Approaching +end of the World.—Seeing the New Moon.—My +Taleb disputes about Religion.—Movements of Banditti.—The +small Force by which the Turks hold Tripoli.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>28th.</i>—<span class="smcap">Heard</span> the <i>Shâanbah</i>—‮شعانبة‬—and Touaricks +are about to have a set-to. Last year they had a skirmish, +and the Touaricks killed about eighty of the +Shâanbah. These latter are going to avenge their defeat; +they will attack the open districts, and then proceed +to Ghat. The Shâanbah inhabit a desert of sand +in the neighbourhood of Warklah—‮وارقلة‬—about fifteen +days from Ghadames, and four from Souf. They are +independent tribes, but small in number, not more than +from five to six hundred. Nominally, however, they +are located in French Algerian territory. They have +been celebrated from time immemorial as the robbers +and assassins of The Desert—<i>to be a brigand</i> is, with +them, an hereditary honour—and they are equally the +dread of the people of Warklah, whose neighbours they +are, as of stranger merchants and caravans. They have +a well of water scooped out in the sandy regions where +their tents are pitched, and here they live in a horrid<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-222" id="V1-222"></a>[<a href="images/1-222.png">222</a>]</span> +security, defying all law and authority, human and divine, +and all the neighbouring Powers. Around them is an +immensity of sandy wastes, and none dare pursue them to +their abhorred dens. Horses, indeed, would be useless; +and camels might wander for months without water, and +perish before coming upon their hiding places in these +dreadful regions. "Two hundred men would require +four hundred camels, eight hundred water-skins, and +provisions for two months," says the Rais, "and therefore +we must leave them to be exterminated by time." +Unfortunately, they are recruited from the bad characters +of the Souafah, a kindred tribe of Arabs, and other +outlaws. The Shâanbah are the great professional bandits +of the North, but there are some other fragmentary +tribes, located on the confines of The Sahara, and the +valleys of the Atlas. Particularly I may mention the +horde of brigands of Wady-es-Sour, which infest the +routes between Touat and Tafilelt. But this horde is +more placable, and mostly, after levying black-mail, will +allow a caravan to pass uninterruptedly on its way. +The expedition of the Shâanbah will take place after +Ramadan, for, like the story of the Spanish assassins, +who, being too early to enter the house of an unfortunate +victim, went in the meanwhile to the matins which +were being celebrated in a neighbouring church, so these +pious assassins of The Desert highways will not proceed +to their work of blood and slaughter until the fast of +Ramadan is concluded. The Shâanbah and Touaricks +are, besides, national enemies as to blood, the former +being pure Arab, and the latter of the Berber, or aboriginal +stock of North Africa. The Shâanbah have for arms +common matchlocks, and a few horses in addition to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-223" id="V1-223"></a>[<a href="images/1-223.png">223</a>]</span> +their camels. The Touaricks have the spear, dagger, +the straight broad sword, and a few matchlocks and +pistols, it is said, and all are mounted on camels, so +the contest is somewhat differently balanced with regard +to the mode of equipment. People speculate as to the +success of the parties, but their sympathies are entirely +with the Touaricks.</p> + +<p>Said comes in blubbering, sympathizing with his countrymen, +saying, Rais has been bastinadoing his household +slaves, natives of Bornou like himself. Rais certainly +ought not to do this, for he does not bastinade +his Moors or Arab servants. In the evening I went +with Said to see the slaves of Ghadames indulge in their +native dances and other plays. These are called ‮لعب العبيل‬ +"<i>playing of the slaves</i>." The festival of the evening +was "<i>the night of power</i>" (‮ليلة القدر‬), on which the +Koran<a name="FNa_1-39" id="FNa_1-39"></a><a href="#FoN_1-39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> descended from heaven, and the slaves were +allowed a holiday in consideration of this solemnity. +The slaves danced in a circle around a leader of the dance +in the centre. At first, it is a simple walking round, +face to back, the legs raised, and a little swinging, and +the steps keeping time to the iron castanets fastened +on the hands of each. Meanwhile, they sing, and the +chorus comes at intervals between the noise of castanets, +or finger-clappers. They now turn round and +face their leader, some prostrating before him, and others +twirling themselves round, but always moving in their +circular motion and singing. The tones of their voice<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-224" id="V1-224"></a>[<a href="images/1-224.png">224</a>]</span> +are melodious and deep, not the plaintive wearying +monotony of the Arabs. Now the sounds increase, the +chorus rises higher and higher, the steps fall heavy, like +the tread of military, on the ground; and now, sounds, +steps, and every noise and movement quickens, until it +becomes a frantic rush around their terrified leader, who +is at last, as the finish of the dance, overthrown in the +wild tumult. . . . . . . Besides the castanets, they +have a rude drum, consisting of a piece of skin stretched +over the mouth of a large calabash, brought from Soudan, +which makes a low hollow sound: to these is added +occasionally a rude squeaking hautboy. This circular +dance was performed by about thirty male slaves, gaily +dressed in their best clothes, and evidently all very happy, +in truth, the free blood of their native homes danced +through their veins. Aye, the poor slave danced and +sung! happier far than his proud and wealthy master, +who looked on in moody silence. So God has ordained +it to alleviate and balance human miseries. This dance +of freedom lasted a full hour, and was very laborious. +There were several Negresses near, who answered in shrill +voices to the deep choruses of the Negroes, but did not +themselves dance. After the circular dance, came off +reels of couples. These were danced with great spirit, +nay, violence: there was no dancing of a person singly. +None of the dancing was indecent, like the Moorish; +the lower part of the body and legs now and then +assumed steps and positions like the well known Spanish +<i>fandango</i> with castanets.</p> + +<p><i>29th.</i>—Weather is now tolerably cool all day long in +the city, but not cool enough for agreeable travelling. +Sketched to-day the <i>Aâween</i>, ‮اعوين‬, or square of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-225" id="V1-225"></a>[<a href="images/1-225.png">225</a>]</span> +"fountains," which belongs to the faction of the Ben +Weleed. A group of fifty persons surrounded me, all +clamoring to see what I was doing, and making the funniest +observations. They call drawing, <i>writing</i> a thing. +One said, "Ah, it is well written, the Christians know +everything but God." Another, "Yâkob, shall you give +that writing to your Sultan?" From the fountains in +this square, which merely run into stone troughs, the +camels drink.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-10.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-10_th.jpg" alt="Square of Fountains" title="Square of Fountains" /></a></p> + +<p>The white women, or the respectable women of Ghadames, +white or coloured, never descend to the streets, nor +even go into the gardens around their houses. Their flat-roofed +house is their eternal promenade, and their whole +world is comprehended within two or three miserable +rooms. The date-palms they see, and a few glimpses of +The Desert beyond—and this is all. Truly it is necessary +to establish an Anti-Slavery Society for the women +of this oasis. I have visited a few of them in their<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-226" id="V1-226"></a>[<a href="images/1-226.png">226</a>]</span> +private apartments with their husbands, in my capacity +of quack-doctor. None of them were fair or beautiful, +but some pleasing in their manners, and of elegant +shape; they are brunettes, one and all, with occasionally +large rolling, if not fiery, black eyes. They are gentle in +their manners, and were very friendly to The Christian. +Many of them, in spite of their seclusion, shewed extreme +intelligence; they are also very industrious. My +taleb assured me the little money he got from keeping +the register of the distribution of water, and other minor +matters, could not keep his family, and his chief support +was from the industry of his wife in weaving, whom +he highly praised, adding, "God has given me the best +wife in Ghadames." Most of the women weave woollens +enough for the consumption of their family, and some for +sale abroad. The education of women consists in learning +by heart certain prayers, portions of the Koran, and +legendary traditions of the famous <i>Sunnat</i>. The women +are proud of their learning, and the men pride themselves +in saying, "Only in this country are women so +well instructed!" Besides this, they have the privilege +of going to the mosques very early in the morning, and +late in the evening, where they say their prayers like +men, at least, so I understood from my taleb; but a +Christian must not ask questions about women in these +countries. The same authority assured me, the women, +mostly negresses and half-castes, seen in the streets in +the day-time, are slaves, or esteemed as such, the +Touarick women excepted. I have no doubt the manners +of the women of this city are generally very correct, +and as chaste as any women in North Africa. But the +Touarick women, especially of the elder sort, are not<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-227" id="V1-227"></a>[<a href="images/1-227.png">227</a>]</span> +always exceedingly refined. One morning, going out +from my house, I found some seven or eight Touarick +women sitting on the stone-bench at the door. They +began to laugh and joke with me; at last one of the +elder present said, "Now, Christian, give me some +money, and then I'll come into your house." At this +delicate sally, all expressed their approbation in loud +laughter: the half-caste women are much the same. A +Moor said something to me, which I did not understand, +and then laughed and said, "It is a Negro word," and, +lest I should want an interpreter, an half-caste lady +present, putting her hand deliberately to something, said, +"That's the meaning," repeating the action two or three +times. On the whole, however, I have not seen so many +cases of indelicacy in this part of the world, as are to +be seen almost every day in Paris and London. No, +the morals of The Desert are mostly pure and continent +as compared to those of our great European cities.</p> + +<p>My taleb to-day made a vocabulary of the Touarghee, +Ghadamsee, and Arabic languages. He finished also the +translation of the third chapter of Matthew into the +Ghadamsee language, which I sent afterwards to the +British and Foreign Bible Society. I did not expect +that he would have done it so easily, thinking his religious +scruples would have interfered. He would have +done all the Gospels had I paid him. According to +Ben Mousa, the Ghadamsee language contains a few +Arabic words, and is a most ancient dialect. It is +spoken only at Siwah and Ougelah, two Tripoline oases +near the coast, ten days apart, on the route to Egypt, +and there is a dialect something like it in one of the +Tunisian mountains. Many of the Touarghee words, he<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-228" id="V1-228"></a>[<a href="images/1-228.png">228</a>]</span> +says also, are very much like, if not the same, as those +of Ghadamsee. I showed him the Gospel of St. Luke, +translated into the Berber language of Algeria, through +Mr. Hodgson, and published by the Bible Society. He +was only able to recognize a few Ghadamsee words in +this translation. The Berber dialects, which comprehend +the Ghadamsee, the Touarghee, the Kabylee, the Shouweeah +(of Dr. Shaw), and the Shelouk of Morocco, +although more or less intimately related, are very dissimilar +in many words and expressions. But they are +sister branches of one original mother, which require to +be reduced to consistency and harmony by some mastermind, +and then a very copious and powerful language +might be formed. Such is said to have been the state +of the German language when Luther made his translation +of the Scriptures, by which he laid the foundation +of the present mighty language of the Germans. Their +common enemy is the Arabic, which is daily making inroads +upon them; and the probability is, instead of being +moulded into one mighty whole, they will in the course of +a few centuries be destroyed by the language of their +religion, for which the Berber tribes have a superstitious +reverence. There is a singularity about the language +of Ghadames: it has differences as spoken by the two +factions of the Weleed and the Wezeet, the provincialisms +of the country. It is highly probable that the various +Berber dialects are the fragments of the language of +those formidable, but doubtful, auxiliaries, which so often +balanced and changed the fortune of Roman and Carthaginian +arms. Of all these Numidian dialects, only one +people has amongst them a native alphabet, the rest +using Arabic characters: this people are the Touaricks.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-229" id="V1-229"></a>[<a href="images/1-229.png">229</a>]</span> +It is besides worthy of remark, that amongst all the +African tribes of Central Africa, nay, every part of Africa, +excepting the Coptic and Abyssinian Christians, only +one alphabet has been found, none of the other tribes +having any characters wherewith to write. Specimens +of the Touarghee and Ghadamsee language, as well as +this alphabet, have been recently published, under the +auspices of the Foreign Office.</p> + +<p>The language of Ghadames is spoken by an extremely +mixed and various population. Some are from Arabs +of the plains, others from Arabs of the mountains, +others from Berber tribes, others from Moors of the +Coast, and not a few from Negress mothers, of every +description of Negro race found in the interior. Sometimes +the men make a boast of being descended from +ancestors of pure Arab blood, from immigrants of the +princes of Mecca and countries thereabouts in Arabia, but +in practice they contemn the principle of uncontaminated +blood, cohabiting with their favourite female slaves, and +from these rearing up a large family of mixed blood and +colour. In the Arab suburb a considerable number of +free Negroes, the offspring of liberated slaves, are settled. +This class of population has been mistaken for emigration +from the interior, by some writers; but Negroes +never emigrate from the south to the north over The +Desert, however, some may wander, like the Mandingoes, +in the countries of Western Africa, as itinerant +traders, tinkers, and pedlars. The city of Ghadames +presents therefore a most mixed and coloured population, +there being but very few of pure Arab blood, and fewer +still of fair complexions. I have seen, nevertheless, some +families of sandy hair and fair skins; but, certainly, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-230" id="V1-230"></a>[<a href="images/1-230.png">230</a>]</span> +<i>barbarossa</i> ("red beard,") or flaxen locks, are not +esteemed. These children of the sun prefer the raven-black +beard, the tanned skin, and the gazelle eye. The +united population amounts to about 3,000, but there are +many Ghadamsee families established in Soudan and +Timbuctoo. I may add, six languages are spoken daily +in Ghadames, viz., Ghadamsee, Arabic, Touarghee, +Housa, Bornouse, and Timbuctoo. The Rais has not a +Turkish soldier or servant with him, or Turkish would +make seven. Mourzuk being a garrison town, there +Turkish, Greek, Italian, and Tibbo may be added to +these six languages. The Negro languages are spoken +by the slaves and free Negroes, and the merchants in +conversing with them.</p> + +<p>As a specimen of flying reports, I heard yesterday +Bona was not in the hands of the French, but the Mussulmans. +With respect to <i>shamatah</i> ("fighting"), the +reports added, the French had lost 100,000 men in +battle! The eyes of all genuine Moslems are turned +anxiously westwards, and force and conquest, is everything +with them.</p> + +<p><i>30th.</i>—The mornings are now very cool and delicious. +Walked on my terrace, and enjoyed the fresh air of this +autumnal spring. The palms are beautiful to look +upon, and the Desert city has the aspect of an Hesperides. +Are these the "fortunate isles" of the ancients? +A few birds twittering and chirping about, pecking the +ripe dates.</p> + +<p>My taleb, backed with two or three Mussulman doctors, +charged me in the public streets with corrupting +and falsifying the text of the word of God. "This," he +said, "I have found by looking over your <span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-231" id="V1-231"></a>[<a href="images/1-231.png">231</a>]</span>‮الانجيل‬ +Elengeel (Gospel)." It is precisely the charge which we +make against the Mohammedans. But our charge is not +so much corrupting one particular revelation as falsifying +the entire books of the Jews and the Christians, of giving +them new forms, and adding to them a great number of +old Arabian fables. A taleb opened the Testament at +the Gospel of St. Mark, and read, <i>that Jesus was the Son +of God</i>. Confounded and vexed at this, he said, "<i>God +neither begets nor is begotten</i>," (a verse of the Koran). +An Arab from the Tripoline mountains turned upon +me and said, "What! do you know God?" I answered +sharply, "Yes; do you think the knowledge of God is +confined to you alone?" The bystanders applauded the +answer.</p> + +<p>In general, the ignorant of the population of this +part of North Africa, as well as Southern Morocco and +Wadnoun, think the Christians are not acquainted with +God, something in the same way as I heard when at +Madrid, that Spaniards occasionally asked, if there were +Christians and churches in England: "Hay los Cristianios, +hay las iglesias in Inglaterra?" But in other +parts of Barbary, I have found, on the contrary, an +opinion very prevalent, that the religion of the English is +very much like the religion of the Moors, arising, I have +no doubt, from the absence of images and pictures in +Protestant churches.</p> + +<p>This evening, when visiting the Ben Weleed, conversation +turned upon the Bas-Relief. The people showed some +jealousy at my possessing it, and would have prefered that +it remained in the oasis, and were not sent to Tripoli. +They added:—"Because it proves that God has given +us the land of the Christians." This is the grand argu<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-232" id="V1-232"></a>[<a href="images/1-232.png">232</a>]</span>ment +in proof of the Mussulman's religion, that God has +given him the countries of the Infidels. Indeed, the +sooner the Bas-Relief is off the better. On my observing +that the slab belonged to a date prior to the +Christians, they were astonished, and asked, "<i>Who were +before the Christians?</i>" They have no idea of people +before the Christians. The conversation was suddenly +stopped by the appearance of a remarkable personage, +the <i>quasi</i>-Sultan of the Ben Weleed. This was the +famous rich and powerful Haj Ben Mousa Ettanee. He +is a man of a great age, and nearly blind, and the chief of +the most numerous and influential family of Ghadames. +He always exhibits a most difficult and obstinate temper +in public affairs, and, I understand, from the first, has +shown an hostility to my residence in Ghadames, +unlike the Sheikh Makouran, who is the recognized Chief +of the Ben Wezeet, and who has shown himself as favourable +as the other Chief hostile. There may be a little +of the spirit of faction in this; for we see often a person +unsupported by the one party, because he is supported +by the other party. But the whole family of Ettanee +is considered <i>wâr</i> ("difficult"). The Rais speaking to +me of this family, said: "Wâr, wâr—I can do nothing +with the Ettanee." Ettanee was attended by two or +three servants, one carrying a skin, and another a cushion +to recline on (<i>mokhaddah</i>). These arranged, the old +gentleman mounted upon the stone-bench and took his +seat, everybody making way for him with the greatest +alacrity. Having heard I was present, after a short silence, +he addressed me: "Christian, do you know Scinde<a name="FNa_1-40" id="FNa_1-40"></a><a href="#FoN_1-40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a>?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-233" id="V1-233"></a>[<a href="images/1-233.png">233</a>]</span> +I replied, "I know it." "Are not the English there?" he +continued. "Yes," I said. He then turned and said +something to the people in the Ghadamsee language<a name="FNa_1-41" id="FNa_1-41"></a><a href="#FoN_1-41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a>. +My conversation with them was always in Arabic. He +abruptly turned to me, "Why do the English go there, +and eat up all the Mussulmans? Afterwards you will +come here." I replied, "The Ameers were foolish, and +engaged in a conspiracy against the English of India; +but the Mussulmans in Scinde enjoyed the same rights +and privileges as the English themselves." "That's what +you say," he rejoined, and then continued: "Why do +you go so far from home, to take other people's countries +from them?" I replied, "The Turks do the same; they +came here in The Desert." "Ah! you wish to be such +oppressors as the Turks," he continued very bitterly, and +then told me not to talk any more. No one present +dared to put in a word. This painful silence continued +for some time. I was anxious to get off, feeling very disagreeable; +and beginning to move, he said to somebody, +"<i>Who's</i> that?" for he couldn't see much, being nearly +blind. They told him it was the Christian going. He +cried out, "Stop!" and then added, "You have books +with you, but you English are not Christians. You deceive +us. Nor are the Danish, or the Swedes, or the Russians +Christians. <i>They have no books.</i>" He meant <i>religious</i> +books. The same opinion, I found afterwards, was entertained +by Haj Ibrahim, a very respectable and intelligent +Moorish merchant of Tripoli. Haj Ibrahim said to me, +"How is it that you have books on religion, when the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-234" id="V1-234"></a>[<a href="images/1-234.png">234</a>]</span> +English have none?" Formerly Ettanee resided at +Tripoli; and I have not the least doubt both these +Moors derived this false information from the intolerant +and Protestant-hating Romanist priests resident in +Tripoli, backed as the falsehoods were by the absence of +any English church or worship, although the English +Consul very regularly celebrated worship in his family +every Sunday,—a circumstance which ought to have been +known amongst the town population of all religions. I +am sorry the intentions of the British Government have +been so feebly carried out by the Bishop of Gibraltar. +Her Majesty's Government was anxious that Dr. Tomlinson +should visit all the coasts of the Mediterranean, +both to strengthen the few Protestants scattered on these +inhospitable shores, and to show the various authorities +and people of this famed inland sea, that the English +had a religion, and cared for its prosperity. Up to the +time I left the Barbary coast, Dr. Tomlinson had neither +visited Tunis nor Tripoli, though he had been resident at +Malta some three years. This is too bad; and it is +quite clear the Bishop does not understand the object of +his mission in the Mediterranean. He ought to have +shown himself at once in all Barbary; he then might +have annihilated this monstrous error, propagated by +Romish priests, that the English had no religious books, +and were not Christians. It is but justice to add, the +Bishop went to Tangiers. Mr. Hay expected a very +unctuous episcopal visit, and was shocked to hear the +good Bishop talk so much about fortifications and "horrid +war." There is consistency in everything; and common +sense dictated that the Bishop should have, on such a visit, +assumed his character of "Overseer of the scattered Pro<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-235" id="V1-235"></a>[<a href="images/1-235.png">235</a>]</span>testant +flock." Unfortunately, when he went first to +Malta, Dr. Tomlinson acted more like an episcopalian +tight-rope dancer, always balancing himself between +Puseyism and Evangelicalism, and so distracted the few +Protestants at Malta. He is eminently a man of no +decision of character; and whenever he does manage to +get up his reluctant will to a decision, it is invariably on +the wrong side of the question. Here in The Desert I +found myself pestered with both political and religious +questions; and to have shirked either, would have been +to offend the people. There was no alternative but to +preach to them that all the English and all Protestants +had the same Bible as the Romanists, and were equally +Christians with them. I may add, of the Bishop of +Gibraltar: Since my return, I have heard that his Lordship +found all his efforts useless to conciliate the Malta +papistical authorities; that he was much shocked at their +treachery; and that he was determined, on his return +again to Malta, <i>to become once more a good Protestant</i>. +The truth is, he had nothing to do with the Roman +Catholics. He was to mind and care for the Protestants +in Malta, and on the shores of the Mediterranean. I +believe, however, he did do something in the way of +unpleasant interference with Colonel Warrington. It is +well known the Colonel was high-priest of Protestantism +through his long Consular service of thirty-three years, +as well as Her Britannic Majesty's Consul. The Colonel +baptized, married, and buried, whenever applied to. He +baptized, married, and buried the members of his own +family, and was surprised Sir Thomas Reade had not the +courage to do the same. Of this the Colonel was very +proud, citing the authority of some peer in the British<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-236" id="V1-236"></a>[<a href="images/1-236.png">236</a>]</span> +Parliament, who said, "If the King's subjects wished to +<i>procreate</i> in a foreign land, where there was no parson, +why should not the British Consul help them?" This +the Bishop demurred at; but the Colonel supported himself +on the authority of Dr. Lushington. The Colonel +was undoubtedly right. Still, politically and ecclesiastically, +it would be much better if English clergymen of +some denomination or other were established along the +line of the whole coast of North Africa, which would +show the native Mussulmans we had a religion, and that +we could afford to support and protect our co-religionists. +The French reap a good harvest by <i>their protection of +Christians</i>, which, characteristically enough, they use as +a political engine of aggrandizement.</p> + +<p>On returning home, my Moorish friends pestered me +still with more questions, as to what people were <i>before</i> +the Christians. I endeavoured to impress upon them, +that the Christian era was comparatively <i>new</i>, and that +<i>before</i> Christ, there were many nations, and great events +occurred. I found them grossly ignorant. But I had +the good fortune to procure an Arabic map in the possession +of one of the merchants, who had laid it up for +many years amongst dusty papers. This had been published +by the printers and agents of the Church Missionary +Society of Malta, very much to their credit. By the +aid of this, I made more progress in teaching geography +to the people. Seeing several dots on the map where +<i>Sahara</i> is written, the people asked me what it meant. +I told them sand. However, I must protest against this +device. We shall see that the greater part of The Desert +is stone and hard earth. The term "<i>sandy border</i>" of +The Desert is equally incorrect. Such a distinction does<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-237" id="V1-237"></a>[<a href="images/1-237.png">237</a>]</span> +not exist in the Tripoline provinces. The Desert comes +up to the gates of Tripoli, it then gives way to cultivation +and The Mountains; it beyond them appears again +here and there and everywhere, within and without the +regions of rain. There is nothing like a border of The +Desert. The "Grand Desert" and "Petite Desert" of +the French, are equally incorrect and absurd. All is +Sahara, or waste, uncultivated lands, and oases scattered +thick within them, as spots on the back of the +leopard<a name="FNa_1-42" id="FNa_1-42"></a><a href="#FoN_1-42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a>.</p> + +<p>Saw the Rais late, who had heard all about my conversation +with Ettanee, and jokingly said, "<i>Wâr, wâr</i>, +that old fellow, aye?" His Excellency turned, to other +matters: "The Shânbah are not going to attack the +Touaricks, they are coming hereabouts to plunder our +caravans." Asked him, if the city was secure enough +to prevent them entering and pillaging it? His Excellency +replied, "Yes," but adding, "<i>koul sheyan maktoub</i> +(all is predestinated)." This doctrine is not only a comfort +in every misfortune, but also an apology for every +fault, crime, or mismanagement a person may be guilty +of. Nay, if a man be starved to death, because he will +not work, which is sometimes the case in this part of the +world, as well as Ireland, it is destiny and the will of +God! . . . . . . So of all other things. If Ghadames +should be stormed and plundered by the Shânbah in its +present defenceless condition, it will be, as a matter of +course, the will of God. But I must add, which unhap<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-238" id="V1-238"></a>[<a href="images/1-238.png">238</a>]</span>pily +cannot be said of Ireland, the security of human +life is very great in Ghadames and the neighbouring +desert. I have heard of no murder since I have been +here, and a murder is the last thing thought of. This +does not arise from any preventitive police, but from the +simple dispositions of the people—their horror and +unwillingness to shed human blood! If a messenger +from a distant planet were to come to prove the divinity +of a religion, from the absence of the crime of murder, +and were to take these Saharan oases, and our Ireland, +and put them in the balances of Eternal Justice, we +should soon see Ireland and its popular religion kick the +the beam, as—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i1">"The fiend look'd up, and knew</span> +<span class="i0">His mounted scale aloft."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>The "signs of the times" in this country are, when I +first came here bread was found in the Souk occasionally, +as a luxury for the poor who could not buy wheat and +make bread; now, and it is only a little more than a +month, no bread is to be found. To-day not a single +sheep was killed anywhere, and I am obliged to go without +meat. So the country progresses in poverty and +misery, so rapidly is its money being filched from the +people! Or, is it because every body has conspired +together against the Rais, and determined to wear an +air of abject poverty? And thus to evade the new contributions? +This cannot be. To-morrow is the last day +of Ramadan; provided the new moon can be seen. I +hope they'll see it, for I am heartily sick of the +Ramadan: the most amiable and kind-hearted get out +of humour in Ramadan; as to the Rais, I never go to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-239" id="V1-239"></a>[<a href="images/1-239.png">239</a>]</span> +see him, except in the evening, unless to get a little +money from him, his Excellency being my banker. A +Turk, who smokes all day long for eleven months out of +twelve, must suffer greatly in these thirty days. Should +like to have tried a day's fasting, as I have been so +strongly recommended by the people, but I expect to have +enough of fasting in The Desert, and it is of no use +adding to our miseries for the sake of curiosity or vanity. +From recent conversations, it appears there is no great +danger in attempting Timbuctoo, but I have resolved on +the route of Kanou, because my object is not so much a +journey of discovery, as to collect a statistical account of +the slave-trade, and see whether there are any practicable +legitimate means for extinguishing the odious traffic. +For this latter object, the Kanou route is decidedly +more advantageous. A wild adventure to Timbuctoo, +ever so successful, can never serve me in such stead in +the end, when I have to read my own heart and its +motives, as a humane mission on the behalf of unhappy +weak Africans, doomed, by men calling themselves +Christians, to the curse of slavery.</p> + +<p><i>1st October.</i>—Sheikh Makouran paid me a visit this +morning. Our conversation turned chiefly on the discoveries +of lands and countries since the times of Christ +and Mahomet. The Sheikh was a little surprised when +I told him: "We ought to consider the world as just +beginning, for the ancients knew but little, and the +greater part of the now inhabited world was unknown to +them." Moors, like some Christians, think the time is +near when Deity shall appear to destroy all unbelievers +in their respective religions. For myself, I cannot but +believe that the world has only <i>yet</i> begun. It is impos<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-240" id="V1-240"></a>[<a href="images/1-240.png">240</a>]</span>sible +that the Creator should destroy the world in its +present imperfect state. No—the world will go on yet +thousands of years on years in the path of improvement +unto (<i>shall I say?</i>) perfection. At any rate, I belong to +those whose aspirations are for the future and not for +the past. I am not enamoured with Hebrew patriarchal +innocence, or Grecian classic polish and freedom, or +Christian mediæval chivalry of the past. I am of the +<i>New</i> Englanders, but not for the resurrection of the past. +Rather than subscribe to divinely-anointed kings and +pious monks, church charities and May-day holidays +and May-poles for the people, I would sooner affix my +signature to railways, electric telegraphs, and the wild, +bold, and raving aspirations of a Shelley—in fact, to +plunge anywhere head <i>foremost</i>, than back again into +the past.</p> + +<p>A Moor to-day, in wishing to give a grand idea of the +Touaricks (some of whom were present), said, "Muley +Abd Errahman (Emperor of Morocco) and the Sultan +of Stamboul, pay tribute to the Touaricks; but they pay +tribute to no one." This is ingeniously made out by the +merchants of Tripoli and Morocco, the subjects of the +two Sultans, being obliged to pay black-mail in passing +through the Saharan districts of the Touaricks. Some +of the ill-natured are continually magnifying the dangers +of the route of Kanou, and one present said, "You +can't go, there are thousands of Touaricks to block up +your way." Annoyed with this man and others, I +replied, "Do Touaricks eat the flesh of Christians after +they have killed them?" This made him very angry, +and he began to apologize for the Touaricks, one class of +Mohammedans being always anxious to defend another<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-241" id="V1-241"></a>[<a href="images/1-241.png">241</a>]</span> +from unwonted or odious suspicions. They have, nevertheless, +not the least difficulty in confessing that the +Touaricks will kill Christians, as such, thus tacitly +acknowledging it to be right to kill Christians. The +more respectable Ghadamseeah argue that in no case, if +I pay the Touaricks a certain sum as tribute, or what +not, have the Touaricks a right by the law of the Prophet +to do me the least harm. Heard all the Arab +soldiers have run away from Emjessen, being without +anything to eat. These wise Turkish commanders gave +the poor fellows a bag of barley and a little oil, and +left it, like the widow's cruse in Holy Writ, to replenish +itself. The Shânbah may now go and drink the water +of the well, and plunder the caravans as they please. +The wonder is that more open-desert robberies are not +committed.</p> + +<p>The Rais told me this evening that <i>one</i> person saw the +moon, but it is necessary <i>two</i> should have seen the dim, +pale, half-invisible crescent streak. Then the <i>âyed</i> after +the fast would have been to-morrow. At sun-set, all the +people were on the <i>qui-vive</i>, the Marabouts mounting +the minaret tops, but none saw it but this solitary moongazer, +who, said the Rais, "might have <i>imagined</i> he saw +the moon." The telescope was not lawful, he added, +"The people must see it with the naked, unassisted +eye."</p> + +<p><i>2nd.</i>—No patients; only a little girl with severe +ophthalmia, and the old blind man, who fancies his +eyes are better with the application of the caustic. +Generally the Moors think there is a different sort of +medicine for women. Yesterday I was asked for a +medicine for women. I gave a man a fever powder for<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-242" id="V1-242"></a>[<a href="images/1-242.png">242</a>]</span> +his wife. This morning being the last before the Ramadan, +the Rais sent me a <i>backsheesh</i> of meat (not cooked) and a +quantity of rice, enough to make a sumptuous festa. +Certainly the Rais is very gracious, and continues, if +not increases, in his friendly feelings towards me. People +are killing and preparing for the festival. There's a +report, the merchants in Tripoli are afraid to leave +for this city on account of rumoured depredations <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: 'of' added to text">of</ins> the +Sebâah and Shânbah. To-morrow, my taleb says he +marries his two daughters. He prepares the wedding-feast, +and gives his daughters a stock of <i>semen</i> (liquid +butter), and barley and wheat, to begin the world with. +The sons-in-law make presents to their brides of clothes, +besides a little money; and this is all the matter. My +taleb seems very glad to get rid of his daughters so +easily; they are extremely young—thirteen and fifteen. +Besides these daughters he has a pet son. People +usually choose a religious festival, for the day of the +celebration of their nuptials, as in some parts of England. +The taleb then, who is excessively fond of religious +discussion, began, "The essence of all religion is,—</p> + +<p class="figcenter">‮وهو لا يولد ولا مولد‬</p> +<p class="figcenter"><i>He</i> (God) <i>neither begets nor is begotten</i>: and</p> +<p> </p> +<p class="figcenter">‮وما عند الله شركاً‬</p> +<p class="figcenter"><i>God has no associate</i>":—</p> + +<p>both referring to the unity of God. Speaking of the +duration of the world, I said:—"The world must now +begin, for, up to this time, men have been generally very +ignorant; and until lately the whole of the earth has not +been discovered." Very angry at this, he replied:—"Now +the world will finish; God is coming to destroy<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-243" id="V1-243"></a>[<a href="images/1-243.png">243</a>]</span> +all you Christians, and all the black <i>kafers</i> (infidels), as +well as the white." He then gave me an account of the +creation. "The world," he said, "was created seven +times," &c., &c., adding many curious things.</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"What is to become of the world; are nearly all +its inhabitants, from its beginning until now, to be +d——d?"</p> + +<p><i>He.</i>—"Yes."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"Is this the decree of God?"</p> + +<p><i>He.</i>—"Yes, all is <i>maktoub</i>."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"But you say, God, is ‮الرحمان الرحيم‬, (<i>Most +merciful</i>.)"</p> + +<p><i>He.</i>—"Yes; but men won't obey his religion and +Mahomet."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"What is to become of those who never saw, nor +never could see or read the Koran?"</p> + +<p><i>The Taleb.</i>—"I don't know; God is great; God must +have mercy upon them."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"Undoubtedly God created the world; but according +to you, the world is now all corrupt (<i>fesad</i>), and +nearly all men must soon be destroyed. Is this honourable +to God?"</p> + +<p><i>The Taleb.</i>—"All is decreed."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"But many of the unbelieving Infidels are better +than the Touaricks and Arabs. Is not the British Consul +in Tripoli better than a Shânbah bandit?—better +than an assassin who cuts the throats of the Faithful? +Do not all the people speak well of our Consul?"</p> + +<p><i>The Taleb.</i>—"I know it; he's very good."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"But you can't change the religion of some people +though you kill them. When the Mohammedans conquered +India, they got tired of putting Hindoos to death<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-244" id="V1-244"></a>[<a href="images/1-244.png">244</a>]</span> +for not changing their religion, and becoming Mussulmans."</p> + +<p><i>The Taleb.</i>—"God knows all, but you don't know," (a +frequent phrase in the Koran).</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"Now, I don't think it's of much use to talk +about religion, for you won't change yours nor I mine. +Here's the end of the matter. We must all die, that's a +thing no one disputes; but as to who is saved, or who +perishes, we cannot tell."</p> + +<p><i>The Taleb.</i>—"The truth, by G—d! If God please, +we shall see all soon."</p> + +<p>A small caravan of Arabs, bringing sheep for the +<i>Ayed</i>, arrived this morning from Tunis. The route is +<i>viâ</i> Jibel Douerat, and only seven days. If the roads +were safe, travelling indeed about North Africa could +soon be rendered expeditious. The Arabs report:—"That +great military preparations are making at Jerbah, +where the Bey of Tunis is expected after the <i>Ayed</i>, and +whence he will invade Tripoli, all his Arabs being ready +to march with him." After this, a caravan of forty +slaves arrived from the south, under the conduct of +Touaricks. The <i>ghafalah</i> is originally from Bornou, but +half left for Fezzan on arriving at Ghat. Was much +surprised when Rais told me this evening, after five or six +days, he would send a soldier to sleep as a guard in my +house. He explained he had received authentic intelligence +from Souf, of the Shânbah banditti being on the +march, five hundred strong, proceeding in the direction +of Ghat and Ghadames, and he expected them near this +in the course of ten days. Their <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'intentions'">intention</ins> is to avenge +themselves on the Touaricks for the defeat last year. +They are the immemorial enemies of the Touaricks, who<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-245" id="V1-245"></a>[<a href="images/1-245.png">245</a>]</span> +have a stake in the commerce of the Desert, but they as +professional robbers have none. Besides this, we hear +the Sebâah continue their depredations, and have carried +off 2,000 sheep from The Mountains: they also threaten +an attack on Derge. The whole country, indeed, will +soon be full of banditti, unless some energetic measures +are adopted, and we shall have no communication between +this and Tripoli. All the routes are now considered +unsafe. Rais assured me, he has applied to the +Pasha for a few Turkish troops, but His Highness refused, +on the plea of expense. The whole force of the Rais is +not a hundred Arabs, and poor miserable fellows they +are, with two or three horses placed at their disposal. +With such inconsiderable means the Pacha presumes to +hold in the heart of The Desert this important commercial +city, and its dependencies of Seenawan and Derge! +The French manage matters very differently in Algeira. +Indeed, the united force occupying all Tripoli, with its +wide-spread provinces of many hundred miles apart, +does not exceed <i>five</i> thousand men of all arms! Compare +this to the hundred and thirty thousand men (including +native troops) in Algeira, and be astonished at +the different effects of the French and Turkish systems. . . . . To +add to the Rais's embarrassments, the +people are in ill-humour, whilst some hear the news with +pleasure, and fancy they see in our present troubles the +beginning of the end of Turkish rule in Ghadames.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-39" id="FoN_1-39"></a><a href="#FNa_1-39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> This book is said to be eternal as God himself, even <span class="smcap">Uncreated</span>. +This is argued metaphysically from all the thoughts and volitions +of Deity being eternal and immutable, and therefore the laws of the +Koran have no relation to time or creation.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-40" id="FoN_1-40"></a><a href="#FNa_1-40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> Most of the people here have heard of Scinde; but their knowledge +of it is very imperfect.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-41" id="FoN_1-41"></a><a href="#FNa_1-41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> I afterwards learnt it was—"You see these Christians are +eating up all the Mussulman countries."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-42" id="FoN_1-42"></a><a href="#FNa_1-42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> Strabo mentions the oasis:—"To the south of Atlas lies a vast +desert of sand and stones, which, like the spotted skin of a panther, +is here and there diversified by oases, or fertile grounds, like isles in +the midst of the ocean."</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-246" id="V1-246"></a>[<a href="images/1-246.png">246</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<h3>CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHADAMES.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Ayed (little Festival of Moslems).—Ghadames a City of Marabouts.—Every +Accident of Life ascribed to Deity.—Second +Day's Feast, Swinging and Amusements of the People.—Death +of the Sultan of Timbuctoo.—Various Terms employed for +denoting Garden.—French Woman in The Desert.—Price of +Slaves.—Time required to go round the World.—Stature of the +Touaricks.—Oases of Derge.—Reconquest of the World by the +Mahometans.—Tibboo Slave-dealer.—Touatee Silversmith and +Blacksmith.—Assassination of Major Laing.—Tibboos compared +to Bornouese.—The Touarick Bandit again.—First Encounter +with the Giant Touarick.—Water of Ghadames unhealthy.—Manacles +for Slaves.—Second Meeting with the Giant.—The +Souafah, and Tuggurt.—Visit from the Giant.—Chapter in the +Domestic History of Ghadames.—Serpents and Scorpions, the +Banditti of The Desert.—Toys Prohibited.—The Wahabites.—How +Moslems despise Jews.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>3rd.</i>—<span class="smcap">The</span> Ayed ‮عيد‬, succeeding Ramadan, is ushered +in with a cold morning, the first cold morning I have felt +in The Desert. Might venture to put on my cloth +pantaloons. Happy to feel this invigorating cold. This +is the little âyed; the âyed kebir, or âyed Seedna +Ibrahim, takes place two months hence, when every +family, in imitation of Abraham offering up his son +Isaac, kills or sacrifices a lamb. The caravan from +Bornou reports the road to be good. It is added, rain +has fallen in Ghat as well as in The Sahara, near Tunis +and Tripoli, so that the oasis of Ghadames is the only +dry spot, for no rain has yet fallen.</p> + +<p>Had several visits from persons all dressed out in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-247" id="V1-247"></a>[<a href="images/1-247.png">247</a>]</span> +festival finery, amongst the rest the black dervish. He +looked like a dusky Nigritian Sultan. Twenty paras he +condescended to take from me, which added to his +holiday happiness; sometimes he won't accept of money. +Now comes Ben Mousa, my taleb, to pay his respects. +Not, as amongst the great unwashed of London, do they +shave for a penny and give a glass of —— (I shall not +say what), in the bargain, here in Ghadames they shave +for nothing. "How is this," I said to my turjeman who +had now come in. "This is the custom of the country," +he replied, "we always shave one another for friendship." +There are several other little things done <i>gratuitously</i> in +Ghadames, but shaving the head is the principal one<a name="FNa_1-43" id="FNa_1-43"></a><a href="#FoN_1-43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a>. +He who has the sharpest razor is expected to do the +most work. They cut and hack one another about most +barbarously, some using no soap, only rubbing a little +water over their heads. I have seen a score in a row, all +sitting on the ground, waiting patiently their turn. Some +shave the head every month, others allow several months +to elapse. By way of diverting conversation, my taleb +had the extreme kindness to tell me that the Touaricks +of Aheer and Aghadez (not those of Ghat) killed +Christians and Jews on the principle of religion, and +would refuse to compound matters, even if I gave them a +thousand dollars. He, however, condescended to add, +"They are <i>mahboul</i> (foolish)." He then went on to +boast of the sanctity of this city, and said, "Our people<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-248" id="V1-248"></a>[<a href="images/1-248.png">248</a>]</span> +are not afraid of the Sebâah and Shânbah, because they +are a city of marabouts." The taleb had just come from +a full divan of the people, where the Rais, on this festival +morning, had been haranguing them and flattering their +prejudices. "Be assured," said the Governor, "if the +Bashaw knew that you were a holy city, <i>a city of +dervishes</i>, a zaweea (or sanctuary), he would write to the +Sultan at Constantinople, and the Sultan, hearing of this, +would immediately give orders that no 6,000 mahboubs +were to be exacted from you, but that, on the contrary, +money from the Sultan would be sent to you, holy +people." I wondered that a man of the Rais's sense +could so commit himself. What would he have done if +after the âyed, the people had brought a petition to him, +addressed to the Sultan, setting forth that they were "<i>a +city of marabouts</i>," and praying to have their tribute +remitted? But the poor people are incapable of taking +such an advantage. They were excited by their religious +feelings, and believed all the Rais told them. It was +certainly a fine compliment for the feast, to men in the +situation of the people of Ghadames. And my informant +added: "Ahmed Effendi in The Mountains is +the rascal and the infidel, and does not tell the Pasha +we are a nation of dervishes." Said told me a slave was +brought up to day to be bastinadoed, but reprieved till +to-morrow on account of the feast. Said's sympathy is +always excited on these occasions, he remembers ancient +days. On asking what he had done, he said, "The slave +stole some dates because he had nothing to eat." My +taleb, occasionally rather free in tongue, took upon himself +to call all Negroes <i>thieves</i>. I admonished him: "The +poor slaves got little from this city of dervishes, now and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-249" id="V1-249"></a>[<a href="images/1-249.png">249</a>]</span> +then a little barley-meal, or lived almost altogether on a +few dates. It was not surprising they stole to satisfy +the cravings of hunger." Berka the liberated slave of +Makouran, and Said's intimate friend, now came in, +dressed up in his holiday clothes. He asked for Said. +"He is gone to The Desert, run away, for he has broken +our cooking-pot; see here are the pieces, here's the meat +spoilt; what am I to do for dinner?" I added, "He +ought to have a good beating." The poor old negro +stared and looked really grieved. At last he muttered, +"Why, Christian, that <i>breaking</i> comes from God, and +not Said." "The truth," said the taleb laughing. Said +now came in, having borrowed another pot, and Berka +was comforted at the return of his friend. In The +Desert, every accident of life is ascribed to an ever-present +and all-superintending Divinity!</p> + +<p>All people enjoy their festival or carnival, to-day. +They follow the reckoning of Tripoli, but as the people +saw the moon a day sooner there, a day of fasting is +here saved. It is so fortunate not to see the moon too +soon. The appointed Ramadan is twenty-nine or thirty +days; ours is twenty-nine. However, rigid Moslems did +not begin to eat to-day till noon, after the morning prayers, +so delicately scrupulous are they. My taleb agrees with me, +that the Arabs, who usually only eat in the evening, and +don't smoke, experience but little inconvenience from the +fast. Nothing particular took place to-day's âyed, except +every one being dressed in his best clothes, and most of the +youth having on something <i>new</i>. It is the same with the +Jews of Mogador on the feast of Passover. The Sanctuaries +hoist the holy colours of their religion, beautiful +vermilion, and yellow, and green; these are their holiest<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-250" id="V1-250"></a>[<a href="images/1-250.png">250</a>]</span> +and most-loved colours. The slaves danced and sang all +day long. I was present during the closing scene at night, +which was curious. After their continuous and laborious +dancing, they all suddenly stopped as if struck with +paralysis, offered a prayer to Allah, and dispersed. Did +not go out till evening, for if I had gone out at all in the +day-time I must have dressed up, and I did not wish to +appear a Guy Fawkes amongst the people, or excite +their curiosity or prejudices on the day of a solemn +festival. The Rais asked why I did not come in the +morning, for this was a grand receiving-day, when all +his particular friends and the heads of the people paid +him visits. On telling him, he approved my reason, +and said, "You, Yâcob, have <i>compass yaiser</i> (plenty of +wit)."</p> + +<p><i>4th.</i>—To-day is half a feast, and full-grown men and +aged men are amusing themselves with swinging, like +so many boys. A dead aoudad was brought in from +The Sahara, which the Touaricks had killed. These +Touaricks are also bearers of a letter, written at Timbuctoo, +which has come the round-about way of Soudan, +announcing that the Sultan of Timbuctoo is dead. Sidi +Mokhtar, a marabout, is appointed Governor of Timbuctoo +by the new Sultan. The Sultan himself, after +visiting Timbuctoo and making this appointment, retired +to Jinnee, his royal residence. Sheikh El-Mokhtar has +a good reputation; he is now occupied reorganizing his +government. No other news. Met in the streets one of +the Touaricks who came yesterday with fifteen camel-loads +of senna. Asked him if Touaricks killed Christians. +Surprised at this abrupt question, he asked, +"<i>Why?</i>" I added, "If you are a good fellow I will go<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-251" id="V1-251"></a>[<a href="images/1-251.png">251</a>]</span> +with you to Ghat." Pleased at this confidence, he came +home with me and took some coffee. A camel-load of +senna now sells for seventeen mahboubs. He asked me +what the Christians did with the senna, and would not +believe it was all used for physic. Said Christians were +not numerous enough to drink all they bought. There +is a wady near Ghat covered with senna, during rain, +but the greater portion of senna is brought from Aheer.</p> + +<p>An instance of the way in which the Arabic language +is used, and which makes some people think there are +different dialects in this language, may be given in the +terms denoting <i>Garden</i>. For garden, the Touaricks and +people of Touat use ‮جنّة‬, a word which frequently occurs +in the Koran, conveying the highest and purest idea of +garden, and which we usually translate "<i>paradise</i>." In +Ghadamsee and Touarghee a corruption of this pure +Arabic word is used for heaven, ‮اجّن‬. The Tripoline +and Tunisian Moors use the term ‮سانية‬, and the people +here ‮قابة‬, for garden, but which is, rather, kitchen-garden. +Now, all these words are good Arabic, and +may be used indifferently, at least the two latter. In +the New Testament translation, the Persian ‮بستان‬ is +used, which I imagine is the Eastern term for garden +generally, in opposition to the western ‮سانية‬. <i>The +Garden</i> in North Africa is very different from our ideas +of a garden. Corn-fields, overshadowed with the palm, +the olive, and a few other fruit-trees, is the species of +plantation to which the term is usually applied. Certainly +a few flowers are sometimes cultivated in these gardens +of Africa, but this is the exception to the usage.</p> + +<p>The Rais, who is a grave Turk, nevertheless unbended<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-252" id="V1-252"></a>[<a href="images/1-252.png">252</a>]</span> +himself to-day, amusing himself in seeing the boys swing. +The Moors sadly wanted me to join their swinging, but +I politely declined. They said, it was "<i>medicine</i>," +meaning good for the health, everything conducive to +health being called "<i>medicine</i>" by people in The Desert. +Was gratified to see some sports amongst the people, for +the men are always gloomy and reclining about the +streets, brooding over their ruinous affairs, and the boys +are little encouraged to healthful and innocent games. +Up to this time, the only persons I have seen happy are +the slaves, who dance and sing, and forget everything +but the present moment. The swings are tied high up +to the tallest date-palms, two or three persons swing +together, and the sport is a little dangerous. Saw no +other amusements during the âyed, except here and +there drafts, played in the primitive way of making +small holes in the sand for the squares.</p> + +<p>During the expedition of the Duke d'Aumale to the +south of Algeria, the Bey of Biskera, Mohammed-es-Sagheer +("little") murdered the small garrison of soldiers +left behind, emptied the chest of what francs were in it, +and went off to The Desert. He is now living tranquilly +in the Jereed. The French made a demand to the Bey +of Tunis to have him given up, but it seems His Highness +had courage enough to resist it, alleging that he was a +political refugee. Mohammed-es-Sagheer had married a +French woman, and she ran away, or was taken by force, +with him. She had borne him two children. The most +extraordinary stories are current of this French woman. +Though a low woman of one of the towns, she gives herself +out as "the daughter of the Sultan of France!" +She rides like a man, dresses like a man, smokes, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-253" id="V1-253"></a>[<a href="images/1-253.png">253</a>]</span> +follows the Arabs in all their expeditions <i>against</i> the +French. She has adopted the Mahometan religion, and +is become a sort of priestess, or Maraboutah. She promises +the credulous Arabs that she will not only put her +husband on the throne of Algeria, but even of France +itself, and then all the world will become Mussulmans! +The Moors say she can never leave The Desert because +she has brought her husband two children.</p> + +<p>Saw Rais in the evening, and had a sort of confidential +conversation with him, and told him for the <i>first</i> +time of my intention to proceed further in the interior. +Of course, he had heard of it before from his servants. +Nevertheless, he affected great surprise and sorrow. +But, when I told him I might return in six months +hence, he became more calm. He then persuaded me +by all means to avoid the routes of the Touaricks, and +proceed to Fezzan, thence to Bornou. Speaking of the +Ghadamsee merchants and their friends and correspondents, +Messrs. Silva, Labe, Shaloum, and Francovich, in +Tripoli, he said, "Your merchants exchange products +with the Ghadamseeah in the way of barter, and make +a great deal of money, whilst the Ghadamseeah have no +money left, none at all." He wondered, like the Touaricks, +what the Christians do with all the senna. He +expected the Shânbah, on the route of Ghat, in a few +days' time. I observed, "People are all superbly dressed, +and there was not much appearance of poverty." +He smiled, and said, "The people are <i>sheytan</i> (very +cunning), they lay up their new clothes, and only wear +them on festivals." Speaking of slaves, his Excellency +said, "There is now no profit on slaves. Government +takes ten mahboubs duty on each. A good slave fetches<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-254" id="V1-254"></a>[<a href="images/1-254.png">254</a>]</span> +40,000 wadâ (cowries) in Soudan, usual price 30,000, +and some as low as 15,000. A good slave sells in +Ghadames for forty mahboubs." The Rais told me to +take care of the vermin, and abused the filthiness of the +people. If I escape the Touaricks and the fevers as well +as I escape the vermin, which abound on the clothes of +all the people without exception, I shall consider myself +fortunate. The inhabitants of Ghadames make no scruple +in attacking the enemy in the public streets, which stick +to them closer than their dearest friends. I attribute +my escape to my being an infidel, for their orthodox +l-i-c-e won't have anything to do with Kafers.</p> + +<p>People look worse than during the Ramadan. Poor +creatures, they have little to eat; they say they have +nothing but barley-meal and dates to eat, for the Turks +have taken away all their money. Some, however, as a +luxury, which their relations and friends send them from +Soudan, masticate <i>ghour</i><a name="FNa_1-44" id="FNa_1-44"></a><a href="#FoN_1-44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a>-nuts, and which I believe is the +<i>kolat</i>, or colat-nut of Caillié. The Arabs called these +nuts the "<i>Coffee of Soudan</i>." Konja is a great place +for the growth of the ghour, two or three months west +of Kanou.</p> + +<p><i>5th.</i>—Weather gets colder every day. I was reflecting +on the best situation for a Consul in Northern Sahara. +The point would be Touat, the nucleus of many routes, +the great highways of commerce in The Desert. From +this point a British Consul could keep a sharp look-out +on the French, moving southward.</p> + +<p>A Mussulman doctor told me with great solemnity +this morning, that five hundred years were necessary to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-255" id="V1-255"></a>[<a href="images/1-255.png">255</a>]</span> +go round the world. Two hundred years desert (‮ك٘لع‬), +or nothing, or containing—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"(God's) <i>dark materials to create more worlds</i>."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>Two hundred years of seas. Eighty years of Gog and +Magog. Eighteen years of Soudan. And two years <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: 'of' added to text">of</ins> +white people, including Christians and Mohammedans. +There were countries full of Mussulmans which had not +been visited by the Mussulmans of Turkey or Africa. +They had been visited by one man only, Alexander the +Great. Certainly the Moors read history <i>backwards</i>. +On asking where this information was to be obtained, he +said, "From the <i>Tăfseer</i> (Commentaries) of the Koran."</p> + +<p>The Touaricks who have just arrived are men of very +large stature, and as "straight as a dart." Several of +them are full six feet high. Such men are alone produced +in the Sahara! All the weak and the diseased +soon die off, leaving behind only the robust. They walk +about the streets with an air of consummate pride, with +their huge broad swords swung at the back, and their +lances in their hands, like "a tall pine."</p> + +<p>An Arab, just arrived from Derge, brings intelligence +that the Ghadamsee people who were in Tunis are +returning home <i>viâ</i> Tripoli. These are mostly poor +labourers, who go a few months to Tunis to amass a little +capital, with which to trade afterwards. The Ghadamsee +is constantly going on these journeys of profit and enterprize, +either as merchant or labourer. His Desert home +is the pulse of all his distant enterprises, whither he +retires to end his days, dedicating the last hours of his +existence to God. The Arab came from Derge, mounted +on a good horse, in the short time of <i>thirteen hours</i>,—by<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-256" id="V1-256"></a>[<a href="images/1-256.png">256</a>]</span> +camels it occupies two and two-and-a-half days! The +Arab told me he killed, a few days ago, six ostriches +near Derge. The oases of <i>Derge</i> consist of four little +oases, or districts, viz., Derge (proper), Terghuddah, +Madress, and Fiffelt, containing an Arab population of +400 souls, a hardy and brave people. Water is plentiful, +but there are no hot springs. A native told me, that +invariably any stranger drinking this water, was attacked +with fever. Generally these little oases are very unhealthy. +Some assert that all who visit the oases are +taken ill. Probably, like Mourzuk, they lay low, in a wady +or hollowed plain. Date-trees are numerous, and bear +good fruit. A fair quantity of wheat and ghusub is +grown. Besides sheep, and goats, and fowls, there is a +few camels. The people are occupied in the gardens, +but too numerous for the oases; they are very poor, +and obliged to emigrate. Derge is in the more eastern +route of Zantan and Rujban; and when that of Seenawan, +the western, is not safe, this, the longer route, is +taken.</p> + +<p><i>6th.</i>—Slept badly during the night; restless about my +journey. Determined now to take the Fezzan route. +Weather very soft, with murky clouds.</p> + +<p>Relating to my taleb, that, formerly, Mussulmans conquered +Christians, but now, all the countries of the Mediterranean +were fast falling back again into the hands of +the Christians—such being the will of God, he consoled +himself by replying: "That, in less than forty years +will rise up one Abou Abdullah Mohammed El-Arbee +El-Korashee El-Fatamee, (‮ابو عبد الله محمّد القرشي الفاطمي‬,) +who will kill all the Christians, both of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-257" id="V1-257"></a>[<a href="images/1-257.png">257</a>]</span> +new<a name="FNa_1-45" id="FNa_1-45"></a><a href="#FoN_1-45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> and the old world; that this will be the golden +age; all people will be Mussulmans, and all will be rich +and powerful, enjoying the abundance of this world's +good things; and the very dust of the earth, and the +sand of the Sahara, will be turned into gold and silver: +But, (the awful but!) that this will only last one generation, +or <i>forty</i> years; for then will arise The Dajal! who, +mounting upon an ass, will scour the earth in three days, +and kill and destroy all the Mussulmans, this Dajal being +the Messiah of the Jews, who will all flock to his standard; +and that then will appear Jesus, <i>the Son of Mary</i><a name="FNa_1-46" id="FNa_1-46"></a><a href="#FoN_1-46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a>, +from the top of the mountains of the moon, after Dajal +has reigned forty years, and slay this monster Messiah of +the Jews. Now there will appear Gog and Magog, let +loose from Jibel Kaf, in Khoristan, and the country of +the Turks and Russians. And last of all will come the +end, when the Wahabites will carry all the Jews into +hell-fire on their backs." Such are the secret consolations +of a good and orthodox Mussulman of The Sahara. A +part of this monstrous fable has been related before, with +some variations. The gist of the prophecy is, <i>the destruction +of the Christians by another Arab Conqueror</i>. Here +the now humbled follower of the Prophet finds his sweet +revenge. The same revenge the more ignorant and fanatic +of the Jews seek and cherish in the advent of their +long-expected Messiah, who is to enable them to put +their feet upon the necks of all people—all the nations<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-258" id="V1-258"></a>[<a href="images/1-258.png">258</a>]</span> +of the earth. But the better class of Israelites are willing +to believe that the Gentile nations may enjoy a +portion of the blessings of Messiah's reign, and will not +be effaced from the earth. Some pious Christians, who, +failing to convert men to their peculiar views of revelation, +anticipate the appearance quickly of a sort of +<i>Buonaparte</i> Messiah, armed with similar attributes, who +is to involve all infidel nations in seas of blood, and make +the world a heap of Saharan desolation. Such views of +Christianity have always been abhorrent to my feelings; +and I have kept close to the fair and pacific pictures of +Messiah's reign, so beautifully set forth by Pope:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">All crimes shall cease, and ancient frauds shall fail;</span> +<span class="i0">Returning Justice lift aloft her scale;</span> +<span class="i0">Peace o'er the world her olive wand extend,</span> +<span class="i0">And white rob'd Innocence from Heaven descend.</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">The dumb shall sing—the lame his crutch forego,</span> +<span class="i0">And leap exulting like the bounding roe.</span> +<span class="i0">No sigh, no murmur, the wide world shall hear,</span> +<span class="i0">From every face He wipes off every tear.</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">No more shall nation against nation rise,</span> +<span class="i0"><i>Nor ardent warriors meet with hateful eyes</i>,</span> +<span class="i0">But useless lances into scythes shall bend,</span> +<span class="i0">And the broad falchion in a ploughshare end.</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">The swain in barren deserts with surprise,</span> +<span class="i0">Sees lilies spring and sudden verdure rise;</span> +<span class="i0">And starts, amidst the thirsty wilds, to hear,</span> +<span class="i0">New falls of water murmuring in his ear.</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">The steer and lion at one crib shall meet,</span> +<span class="i0">And harmless serpents lick the pilgrim's feet.</span> +<span class="i0">The smiling infant in his hand shall take,</span> +<span class="i0">The crested basilisk and speckled snake.</span> +</div></div> + +<p>Afternoon, went to see the slaves lately brought from +Bornou. They were as much like merchandize as they<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-259" id="V1-259"></a>[<a href="images/1-259.png">259</a>]</span> +could be, or human beings could be made to resemble it. +They were entirely naked, with the exception of a strip +of tanned skin tied round the loins. All were nearly +alike, as so many goods packed up of the same quality. +They were very thin, and almost skeletons, about the +age of from ten to fifteen years, with the round Bornouse +features strongly marked upon their countenances. These +slaves are the property of a Tibboo. I invited the Tibboo +home to my house, to glean some information from him. +The Tibboo bought the slaves on speculation in Bornou; +he could now sell them at from forty to fifty dollars +each. He had only six; the Touaricks had thirty-four. +He came from Bornou to Ghat, thence to Ghadames. +He had also some elephants' teeth. The Tibboo pressed +me to buy his slaves; he had not yet found purchasers, +though he had been here some days. The merchants +have no money, or none to buy slaves. The Tibboo +drank some tea with me, which he observed was better +than <i>bouzah</i>, fermented grain liquor. The Tibboo was a +young black, tall and slender, and of mild and not disagreeable +features. There was nothing in him to denote +that he was a common trafficker in human flesh and +blood. He was not so much stamped with the negro +features as his slaves; he was, indeed, as much of a +gentleman as a Presbyterian slave-holder of the United +States, patronized by Doctors Cunningham and Candlish, +and admitted to the fellowship of Free Kirk Saints. +The Tibboo was excessively curious about me, the Christian. +He handled and turned over everything I had. +Seeing my naked (white) arm, he exclaimed, "Whiter +than the moon!" Said did not approve of my new +acquaintance, and declared all the Tibboos rascals; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-260" id="V1-260"></a>[<a href="images/1-260.png">260</a>]</span> +thinks he recollects that he was made a slave by the +Tibboos. Said was very angry with me for giving the +Tibboo tea—wouldn't make any more for him—I might +make it myself. The Tibboo showed his sense of my +attention, by giving me some trona, which he says +abounds in Bornou, and is called <i>konwa</i>. He champs it +in its hard crystalline state, like children champing +sugar-candy. He mixes it with his tobacco, and says it +is pulverized and drank in solution for medicine at Bornou, +like Epsom salts, producing the same effects.</p> + +<p>Two people left to-day for Ghat, and two for Timbuctoo. +The latter were the headmen of the large mercantile +firm of Ettanee. It is the custom of Saharan +merchants to send their headmen, and even slaves, to +these distant countries, when circumstances prevent them +going themselves.</p> + +<p>My friend the Touatee, who unites in himself a blacksmith +and a silversmith, was this evening employed in +making ladies' ornaments for arms and legs. He was in +the course of finishing a pair of anclets, weighing together +about thirty-eight ounces. Each anclet would +cost 20 dollars. They are for an Arab lady; but, of +course, the husband invests his money in this way until +he can find profitable employment for it, or becomes distressed. +"Meanwhile," says the Touatee, "he has the +kisses of his wife for the investment, and is happier than +if he obtained a hundred per cent. for his outlay of +silver." The old Touatee distinctly recollects Major +Laing passing through Ghadames to Timbuctoo. The +account he gives of him is:—"When in Ghadames the +Rais (or Major) purchased something of every thing he +could find in our city, as well as specimens of Soudan<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-261" id="V1-261"></a>[<a href="images/1-261.png">261</a>]</span> +manufacture. He had with him <i>thirty-six bottles of +wine</i>! which I counted. He was attacked by the +Touaricks near Touat, and wounded in twenty places; +but he cured his wounds, and then proceeded on and +arrived safe at Timbuctoo, where he stopped some time. +Afterwards he went to Sansandy, where he was murdered." +The unfortunate Major had no money in his +possession when murdered, which greatly surprised the +assassins, who murdered him merely for his money. +People add, he wrote every thing in Timbuctoo, but did +not stop long there. He was enticed to go away with a +stranger, against the advice of the parties who conducted +him to Timbuctoo. The stranger was a Saharan +Arab. One of them is still living, Haj Kader, and +left lately for Touat, who has the reputation of being +a quiet and upright man. I did not hear of him +until he was gone, otherwise I should have had some +conversation with him about the Major. The other +party died at Timbuctoo; he was called the <i>Marabout</i>, +and seems to have been another Mohammed (my marabout.) +In a letter of the Major, read to me by Colonel +Warrington, his father-in-law, the Major charges his +Marabout with having stolen his double-barrelled gun, +and sent it on to Timbuctoo for sale before they arrived +there. For this theft, and other bad conduct, old Yousef +Bashaw made a formal complaint against the people of +Ghadames, and mulcted them several thousand mahboubs. +Mr. Gagliuffi heard a strange story about the Major; according +to which, he was murdered near Touat, on his +return, by the same Touarick who stopped him, and +wounded him in twenty-six places, on his way thither, +the Touarick alleging, that the Major was not a man but<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-262" id="V1-262"></a>[<a href="images/1-262.png">262</a>]</span> +a devil, so he (the Touarick) was obliged to kill him<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads ','">.</ins> +No authentic account now will ever be collected of +Major Laing's death. That he was stopped a couple of +days beyond Aghobly, in the oases of Touat, and there +wounded, is certain; we have the Major's own account +for it. He seems also to have remained a month at +Timbuctoo, and wrote a full account of that mysterious +city. He then, not being able to ascend or trace +the Niger <i>viâ</i> Jinnee, on account of the objections of +the people, made a <i>détour</i> through The Desert, +wishing to go to Senegambia, when, after four days' +journey, he was stopped by a party of Arabs, and +murdered. Some persist in saying, that Caillié found +Major Laing's papers, and gave them as his <i>own</i> account +of Timbuctoo. I should be sorry to attempt either to +prove or contradict the charge. All the documents are +in possession of the family of the late Colonel Warrington. +We must suspend our opinion until they are published, +which I trust will not be long.</p> + +<p>Afterwards visited the Rais, who is, like myself, very +fond of the Touatee. His Excellency had a bad headache, +and his <i>major-domo</i> was hard at work rubbing his +head with his hands. I laughed, but said nothing. The +people are fond of manipulation, and shampooning +(<i>Temras</i>). Whenever any one hurts himself by bruises +or falls, the limb affected is rubbed and stretched, and +stretched and rubbed, until the poor sufferer's limb is +nearly severed from his body. Manipulation ought to +have made the fourth mode of cure laid down by my +marabout, after burning, blood-letting, and talismanic +writing. However, I believe manipulation, aided by the +bath, frequently effects important cures. Some Moors<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-263" id="V1-263"></a>[<a href="images/1-263.png">263</a>]</span> +indeed, consider this the sovereign remedy for every +hurt and disease. Found the Touatee again with the +Rais. He amused us both by giving his opinion about +the <i>inexhaustible</i> supply of slaves furnished by Nigritia. +"All other countries," said he, "die and become depopulated. +It is now ten thousand years we go to buy slaves +in Soudan. The oftener we go there the more we find. +In that country the men are all night long begetting +children, and the women all the morning bringing them +forth. This is the reason the supply of slaves never becomes +exhausted."</p> + +<p><i>7th.</i>—Said has just come in and told me I must not +eat many of the dates of this country, for they have +killed some of the soldiers, and will kill me. Dates +may, indeed, injure the poor soldiers, who have nothing +else to eat. One died yesterday. I asked his comrades +what he died of, who replied, "<i>Hunger</i>." It is a +disgrace to the Government of Tripoli to keep these +wretched Arabs without any thing to eat. Why not let +them go to their native mountain homes; for there, +though they may pine away and die in the caverns of the +Atlas, they will nevertheless give up the ghost in the +arms of friends and relations—joining misery to misery, +where the miserable may comfort the miserable. But, +here, amidst the rude buffs of strangers, it is cruel to let +them die like dogs.</p> + +<p>The Tibboo called this morning. Merchants have +offered him only 35 mahboubs each for his slaves; he +asks from 40 to 50. He says, the Americans, or people +nearly as white as I am, ascend the Niger as far as Noufee, +for the purchase of slaves. Bornou and the surrounding +countries are now in peace, and make no slaves by war.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-264" id="V1-264"></a>[<a href="images/1-264.png">264</a>]</span> +The Tibboo bought his slaves of persons who kidnapped +them during the night. To observe, that although the +Tibboos, if this merchant be a fair representation of +them, have not such extended nostrils as the Bornouse, +and such thick projecting lips, yet they are much darker +than the Bornouse. Indeed, the Bornouse are of a +lighter, <i>fairer</i> complexion than any of the Negroes I +have yet seen, those of Soudan and Timbuctoo being of a +much darker shade, and some quite black. The Bornouse +has a round, chubby, smiling face; the Tibboo, a +long, grave, intellectual face. The old Touarick bandit +called to-day, with other <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Touraicks'">Touaricks</ins>, and asked how much +I would give for a <i>live aoudad</i>. Told him from 6 to 8 +mahboubs. He said they're going to hunt them next +month. This retired cut-throat gave himself a good +character, and the Touaricks generally. "Trust us, +don't be afraid of the Touaricks, upon our heads (<i>raising +his sword to his head</i>,) we'll protect you!" Then stepped +in an old friend and lover of the mysteries of geography. +These are some of his questions:—"Where is the sea by +which the Christians go to Soudan? Where is Mount +Kaf, that girdles the earth with brass and iron? Where +are Gog and Magog, which is Muskou (<i>Russia</i>), the monster +which eats up the <i>Moumeneen</i> (<i>faithful Mohammedans</i>)?" +&c. Went out and saw for the first time the +Giant Touarick. The huge fellow must be 6 feet 9 +inches. His limbs were like the trunks of the palm, and +he walked with a step as firm as a rock; whilst his voice +was a gruff growl like distant thunder. Compare this +noble, though monstrous, specimen of a man, the product +of the wild uncongenial Sahara, to the little ricketty, +squeaking, vivacious wretch of the kindly clime of Italy,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-265" id="V1-265"></a>[<a href="images/1-265.png">265</a>]</span> +"the garden of Europe," and be amazed at the ways in +which works Providence! As soon as the giant saw me, +he bellowed out, "Salam aleikom!" which far resounded +through the dark winding streets. He now strode by +without stopping to speak or to look at me, his head and +turban nearly reaching the roof of the streets, and his +big sword, swinging from his back, extended crosswise, +scraping the mortar from both sides of the walls. His +iron spear, as large as an ordinary iron gas-light post, +was carried in his firm fist horizontally, to prevent its +catching the roof of the covered streets. The giant is +one of the chiefs of a powerful tribe of Ghat Touaricks, +of whom the aged Berka is the reigning Sheikh. The +giant is quite at home here and possesses some forty or +fifty camels, with which he conveys the goods of the +merchants between this city and that of Ghat.</p> + +<p>After several trials of changing food, find I am +greatly relaxed, and am convinced it must be the water. +This, however, is the opinion of every stranger who +visits Ghadames. Last evening the Rais said, "The +water here is bad. Look at the people of Ghadames, +they have no colour in their cheeks. What a miserable +wretch am I! When I first came, I had the colour of +the rose; now I am become like these yellow men: +as for my poor horse, he eats quantities of barley every +day, and is still very thin. It's the bad water. We +have a proverb in Turkey, 'Good water makes good +horses, and bad water bad horses.'" I observed, the +dates and water together made the soldiers ill. He +replied, "I have written several times to the Pasha to +return, it is impossible for me to enjoy good health here. +His Highness still refuses to allow me, saying, he can<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-266" id="V1-266"></a>[<a href="images/1-266.png">266</a>]</span> +get no one to fill my post so well, but I hope to return +in a few months." I am inclined to think now that +Ghadames is not salubrious, although, thank God, I +enjoy pretty good health. Strangers, however, require +to be acclimated. A great controversy is now being +carried on amongst the medical men of Algeria, respecting +<i>acclimating</i>; some alleging that a man can bear +the climate of a country when he is quite new or fresh +in it, much better than after a long residence. According +to the anti-acclimaters, the longer residence in a +country only weakens the force necessary to support a +person against the fever and bad influences of a foreign +climate.</p> + +<p>Accosted one of my merchant acquaintances, playing +with some iron manacles and fetters for the legs. It +did not strike me at first what they were: at last, he +says to me, "These are for slaves, each has a pair of +them, to prevent them from escaping when travelling +through The Desert." A painful shuddering came over +me to see a man playing with these dreadful instruments +of the slavery and torture of his fellow men. Yet he +played with them as his rosary of beads, or some +simple toy! . . . . . Another merchant came up to +him, and observed, "The irons for the neck are better, +as these may break." After a pause, I asked my acquaintance +where these irons for the legs were made? +He replied, "In Soudan; the people there have iron +mountains, and they make these irons for slaves in that +country." I asked him then how much they cost, and +whether he would sell them. They were not for sale. +So Africa enslaves herself! forges the very chains of her +own slavery. Cruel, heartless Europe! Thou that<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-267" id="V1-267"></a>[<a href="images/1-267.png">267</a>]</span> +knowest better, encouragest the wretched African to +create his own misery; to dig from his dark purple +mountains the very iron fetters of his own slavery! +Take care that slavery does not surprise thee in an +hour when thou thinkest not, though thou art never so +wise, never so free! Another Corsican tyrant may +come and bind thee down anew in the chains of slavery. . . . . . . Making +inquiries of the Moors about these +fetters, they said, (wishing to smooth down the matter, +seeing it was disagreeable to me), "Only those who seek +to escape are chained." This, indeed, afterwards I +found was the case. "Some," they added, "have irons +on their necks, and others irons on their legs." Alas! +poor people, what have they done to be thus ironed? or +what right have others to iron them? Has God said +"<i>Thou shalt iron thy brother and make him a slave</i>?" +"Yes!" say the free republicans of America, who, for +being taxed for half an ounce of tea, proclaimed their +<i>freedom</i> and independence of the <i>tyranny</i> of the parent +country, in words which, continuing as they are, slave-holders, +must condemn them to everlasting infamy<a name="FNa_1-47" id="FNa_1-47"></a><a href="#FoN_1-47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a>. +But, as God lives, he will have a day of reckoning; he +will avenge the wrongs of Africa! . . . . . Be sure, +beware America! . . . . . Whilst walking through the +streets to-day, in a bad humour on this subject, there +were three Bornou youths, nearly naked, offered for sale, +I think they belonged to the Tibboo. Some Arabs sitting<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-268" id="V1-268"></a>[<a href="images/1-268.png">268</a>]</span> +near, asked me to buy. I replied, indignantly, "If I buy, +my Sultan will hang me up, and you too." They stared +at one another, and muttered something like a curse +upon me.</p> + +<p>I here find several reasons in the journal for my not +proceeding by the route of Fezzan and Bornou, but it is +unnecessary to give them. It is easy to write out a long +list of <i>pro</i> and <i>con</i> reasons. Whilst writing these, the +Tibboo comes in and brings a sick slave. He complains +the merchants will not buy his slaves. Give the dropsical +slave medicine. Ask him whether he ironed his +slaves <i>en route</i> over The Desert. He answers, "No." +I am bound to believe him, for though a slave-dealer, he +appears an honest man.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-11.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-11_th.jpg" alt="City of Ghadames" title="City of Ghadames" /></a></p> + +<p><i>8th.</i>—O God of the morning! what a fine sight are these +lofty umbrageous palms, with the soft serene morning +sky, and the sun just rising above the clear illumined +horizon, colouring and setting off the heavens around.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-269" id="V1-269"></a>[<a href="images/1-269.png">269</a>]</span> +How still, how voiceless is The Desert! The early +morn now begins to be pleasant as the autumnal morn of +old England. It is indeed, the—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Sweet hour of prime."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>After breakfast visited the quarter of Ben Weleed. +Saw the giant Touarick stretching his unwieldy length +upon a stone-bench. At sight of me, he aroused himself, +and raising his head upon his huge arm, growled out to +the people near him, to show them his zeal for their +common religion, "Tell the Christian to say, '<i>There is +only one God, and Mahomet is the Prophet of God</i>.'" +No one took any notice of the stern command. After +a moment, the conversation was continued on other subjects, +and the giant fell back again to sleep. I asked an +acquaintance of mine, how long he would sleep? He +told me that whenever the Sheikh comes here, he usually +sleeps three days before he goes round to see his friends, +or begins to transact business, during which time he +occasionally opens his eyes,—and his mouth, for his +slaves to feed him.</p> + +<p>Heard some Souafah, Arabs of Souf, had purchased +the slaves lately come from Bornou, to sell them in +Algeria, there being no market in Tunis on account of +the abolition of slavery. Rais sent for me and asked +me if I had any money left. I thought his Excellency +wanted to lend me some, by putting the question. His +Excellency then said he was in want of money. I lent +him a hundred Tunisian piastres—all the money I had +in the world, with the exception of seventeen in my +pocket. Afterwards I dined with the Rais, and he persuaded +me to return to The Mountains, <i>en route</i> for<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-270" id="V1-270"></a>[<a href="images/1-270.png">270</a>]</span> +Fezzan. It is reported, the Touaricks have gone out to +meet the Shânbah. I tell the Governor, as well as the +people, whenever they begin to exaggerate or declaim +upon the dangers of travelling in The Desert "<i>Rubbee, +mout wahad</i> (God! death is but once)." This has +usually the effect of stopping their mouths. Were I not +to adopt this Moslemite style of address and reply, I +should be worried out of my life with the exaggerations +of the dangers of The Desert.</p> + +<p>A small caravan has arrived from Souf, bringing the +news of the departure of the Shânbah from Warklah +for Ghat. The Souafah also bring news of interest from +their own country. They are threatened with an invasion +of the people of Tugurt. Twelve hundred men of +Souf have returned from Tunis to their own country, in +expectation of a combined attack of the Tugurt people +and the French, for the Tugurt people have given out +that the French, their new allies, will help them. They +boast that they must now go and destroy all the Souafah. +The object is to revenge an old grudge, for formerly the +people of Souf and Tugurt fought a pitch battle, and +the latter were worsted. There is no French governor +in Tugurt, but the tribute is regularly paid to the +authorities of Constantina. One of the Souafah came +to me much excited. I told him that it was not likely +the French would encourage this war of revenge, and I +understood the principle of the French to be, "to occupy +only the countries which before paid tribute to the Dey +of Algiers." He observed he understood that to be the +rule. But if the Souafah attack Tugurt, the French +will probably defend it as a part of their territory.</p> + +<p><i>9th.</i>—The morning is cool and cloudy; a few drops<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-271" id="V1-271"></a>[<a href="images/1-271.png">271</a>]</span> +of rain fell soon after sunrise, still it holds up. Amused +in finding the Ghadamsee word for <i>father</i> was the same +as <i>dad</i> or <i>dady</i>, which is written ‮دادا‬ <i>dada</i>. This morning +the giant Touarick honoured me with a visit; he +had enough to do to get through the doors of my house +with his pine-tree spear. He behaved extremely well. +I gave him sixty paras to buy tobacco. He begged for +a whole piastre, but thinking he would be a customer of +this sort again, I thought it prudent to begin with a +little. His giantship swore by all the powers terrestrial +and celestial, that he would escort me from Ghadames +to Kanou in perfect safety. I evaded the question by +observing, (what the Rais had often told me) "The Rais +says the Touaricks will cut my throat." The giant roared, +"<i>Kitheb</i>, kitheb, kitheb, (a lie! a lie! a lie!)"—and +went off furiously threatening wrath against the Turks. +Afterwards I heard of a complaint which the giant +made against me, saying I had given him this morning a +karoob short of the half piastre. I was greatly amused +at the giant's keen observance of this defalcation of my +generosity.</p> + +<p>The Ghadamseeah literally carry out the injunction, +"Take no thought for the morrow," which will be illustrated +in the following conversation.</p> + +<p>"What do you do for the poor in your country?"</p> + +<p>"In England, the poor are not allowed to beg in the +streets, but are provided with food and clothing in a +house built on purpose for them when they can no longer +work."</p> + +<p>"We have no houses for the poor in Ghadames."</p> + +<p>"How then do the poor live?"</p> + +<p>"By begging."<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-272" id="V1-272"></a>[<a href="images/1-272.png">272</a>]</span></p> + +<p>"And if the people give them nothing?"</p> + +<p>"It is destined <i>they must die</i>."</p> + +<p>However, in one part of the oasis there are some large +gardens which belong to the poor, who are allowed to +eat the dates and cultivate patches of the gardens. I +think also the Sanctuaries sometimes give alms in the +way of the ancient monasteries. These are miserable +and precarious resources. Nevertheless, before the Turks +so fleeced the inhabitants, I question if there were any +poor person ever likely to die of starvation, for the rich +members of families provide for the poor, and rich friends +for poor friends, and each faction for the poor of the +faction, although no poor-rates are levied. Indeed, like +the Society of Friends, all took care of their own poor +relations and connections.</p> + +<p>I shall now give the reader a chapter of the domestic +history of Ghadames, referring to one of the principal +families. Most of the rich merchants of this city have +two and some of them three wives. My venerable +friend, the Sheikh Makouran, came in possession of one +of his present young wives in the following romantic +way. (His wives by whom he had his children are long +ago dead.) A friend of the Sheikh's died and left a +young and beautiful widow, whose wit and grace was the +theme of all the city, for such things are esteemed also +here. The eldest son of the Sheikh immediately set his +heart upon the possession of this beauty, but unfortunately +he did not communicate his intentions to the +disconsolate lady, who remained in ignorance of his +attachment. Meanwhile, El-Besheer, as a party in the +firm of his father, purchased the house over the widow's +head and made everything ready for the future wedding,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-273" id="V1-273"></a>[<a href="images/1-273.png">273</a>]</span> +and then took a journey of business to Touat, intending +on his return to send some old lady, which is mostly +the practice, with his message of love and marriage to +the widowed solitary. Perhaps he thought the widow +could not fail to discover his intentions in what he had +already done, mostly preliminary to marriage. But we +often imagine others are thinking about us when we are +never in their thoughts. So he left for twenty days' +journey through The Desert, with all these hopes and +fears crowding about him. On his return, to his consternation, +he found his old father, of some seventy years +of age, had got possession of the young blooming widow, +the object he had so fondly cherished on his weary way +over the solitudes of The Sahara! But like the doomed +Pasha, who receives the imperial order of his decapitation +from the hand of the executioner, and kisses it and then +bows his head to the stroke, so the young merchant, full +of filial veneration for his aged sire, submitted silently +and without a murmur to this cruel decree of heaven. +It is said of the lady that she pines and mourns out her +life for the son. She was kept in profound ignorance +of his love until she found herself in the withered, cold, +and shrunken arms of the father. She accepted the +father to keep a house over her head. Alas! poor +woman, whether sold at Paris or London in a marriage +of <i>convenance</i>, or in The Desert, she is always the +victim of man's galling tyranny.</p> + +<p>The Ghadamseeah are a strictly religious people. One +of my best friends would not allow me to touch a religious +book of his, concerning the future world, alleging +it was <i>haram</i> ("prohibited"). A young rogue of a +Touarick now came in and asked me impudently, whether<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-274" id="V1-274"></a>[<a href="images/1-274.png">274</a>]</span> +I knew God and prayed? He added, "Say Mahomet +is the prophet of God." As several aged men +were present I made no answer. These people believe +that there can be no more question of believing in +Mahomet than in the sun when shining in its full +strength, and are astonished that I who read and write +Arabic don't know better. One said, "You are afraid +of scorpions, believe in Mahomet and they will do you +no harm." I could not help thinking of the parallel, for +all Oriental phraseology is so much alike:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i1">‮هاهوذا اعطيتكم سلطا نا لتدوسا الحيات والعقارب‬</span> +<span class="i0">Luke x. 21.</span> +</div></div> + +<p>"Serpents and scorpions" have a peculiar application to +The Desert. There are still more dangerous animals in +The Desert, and I have heard the epithet of "a race of +vipers," applied to the Shânbah banditti. This morning +the people showed me a wooden figure of a fiddler, placed +on a box, in which was inserted a handle, turning round +and making a squeaking noise. None of them could +understand what it was. A boy was playing with it as +a toy. They told me, as news, "This came from the +country of the Christians; it ought not to have been +made, it is <i>haram</i>." All toys of men and animals are +considered by these rigid Moslems as so many violations +of the commandment "Thou shalt not make unto thyself +any graven image."</p> + +<p>According to my turjeman there are many <i>Wahabites</i> +in this neighbourhood. Besides Jerbah and its mountains, +many Wahabites are found in the Tripoline districts +of Nalout, Kabou, Fessatou, Temzeen and Keklah. The +Ghadamsee people detest them and say; "The Waha<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-275" id="V1-275"></a>[<a href="images/1-275.png">275</a>]</span>bites +will be the carriers of the Jews to hell-fire in the next +world." The Wahabites assert, there are five orthodox +sects, of which they form the fifth, and hate cordially the +other four. Wahabites have great difficulty in eating +with other Mussulmans, and some refuse absolutely to eat +with other than their own sect. Wahabites are very numerous +in the oasis of Mezab, belonging to Algeria, which +is confirmed by the Morocco marabout <i>El Aïachi</i>, who +made his pilgrimage to Mecca in 1661. The Wahabites +of Jerbah are subdivided in the <i>Abadeeah</i>, or <i>The Whites</i>, +who wear a <i>white</i> scull-cap, in contradistinction from those +who wear <i>red</i> caps, like most Mussulmans of the coast. +Generally the Wahabites differ from other Mohammedans +as to the observance of the <i>five</i> daily prayers. They +also require that, in the observance of the Ramadan, a +person should purify and wash himself at the hour of the +day in which the fast may begin. The sub-sect of +Abadites will neither eat nor drink from the same +vessel with any other sects. Wahabites in general will +not weigh or touch weights, for fear of doing wrong. +Other persons do weighing for them, they looking on, +like the Jews who will not touch the candle on their +Sabbath, and get Mussulman or Christian servants to +snuff a candle or trim a lamp for them. It seems what +is a sin in them, may or may not be a sin in others.</p> + +<p>My turjeman is surprised we Christians receive the +books of the Jews as sacred and inspired, and so are +many other people. They are quite astonished when I +tell them that Christians esteem the Scriptures of the +Jews equally divine with their own. They have a confused +notion that the whole of the Jewish Scriptures +consist of the five books of Moses, which they call the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-276" id="V1-276"></a>[<a href="images/1-276.png">276</a>]</span> +<i>Torat</i>, and the Psalms of David. Some of them say +Abraham was not a Jew. I explain to them, that the +Christians give a different interpretation to the Jewish +Scriptures from the Jews themselves, and believe "the +Son of Mary" to be the Messiah of the Jews and all the +world. They hardly believe me; and say, "The Jews +are corrupt and their books corrupt." When I told them +one day before the Rais that we had had Jews in India, +they flatly replied it was a lie, for said they, "It is +impossible for such a miserable being as a Jew to be a +soldier."</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-43" id="FoN_1-43"></a><a href="#FNa_1-43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> Shaving off the hair from different parts of the body is a +species of religious rite. The barber in North Africa is highly +esteemed. One of the antiquities in Kairwan (Tunis) is the tomb +of Mahomet's barber. This city is also the <i>third</i> holy city of the +Moslemite world, on account of this important personage being +buried there.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-44" id="FoN_1-44"></a><a href="#FNa_1-44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> Ghour, ‮قور‬, <i>Sterculia acuminata</i>, Pal. de Beauv.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-45" id="FoN_1-45"></a><a href="#FNa_1-45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> He did not know there was a <i>new</i> world before I told him.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-46" id="FoN_1-46"></a><a href="#FNa_1-46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> The Moors always add to ‮عيسي‬, (Jesus,) <i>the son of Mary</i>, to +distinguish The Saviour from others of the same name, one of whom +is Jesus, a marabout, the founder of the Brotherhood of Snakecharmers.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-47" id="FoN_1-47"></a><a href="#FNa_1-47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> In their "Declaration of Independence," the Anglo-Americans +say—"<i>All men are created equal</i>," and "<i>endowed by their Creator +with certain unalienable rights</i>;" and "<i>amongst these, life, liberty, +and the pursuit of happiness</i>." I once met a Naval Officer of the +United States of America at Gibraltar, who graciously told me, +"<i>Slavery is the support of the country</i>," (<i>his</i> country).</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-277" id="V1-277"></a>[<a href="images/1-277.png">277</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<h3>CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHADAMES.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Celebration of Marriage.—Native Feast of the Slaves.—Study of +the Negro Languages.—Visit to the Ancient Watch-Tower.—Arrival +of an Algerian Spy.—Visit to Sidi Mâbed.—Continued +Oppression of the Ghadamsee People by the Turks.—The Ancient +Sheikh Ali.—Finances of Algeria.—Bastinading a truant +School-Boy.—Ceuta sold by the Mahommedans to the Spaniards +for a Loaf of Bread.—The <i>Parakleit</i> of the New Testament +the promised Prophet Mahomet.—Tricks of the Algerian Dervish-Spy.—Learn +to crack Jokes in Arabic.—The sustaining +force of Camels' Milk as Food.—Depreciation of Women by +the Moors.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>10th.</i>—<span class="smcap">A beautiful</span> morning, and cool. I saw with +some surprise a very fine red butterfly, also a small +flight of good-sized birds passing over the gardens.</p> + +<p>This morning there was a grand gormandizing of +bazeen<a name="FNa_1-48" id="FNa_1-48"></a><a href="#FoN_1-48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a>, in celebration of the nuptials of the two daughters +of my taleb. The feast was given by the fathers of +the young men. Nearly the whole of the male population +of the <i>Ben Wezeet</i>, besides strangers and the Arab soldiers, +went to dig, and dip, and dive into the huge bowl +of bazeen, some three or four hundred adults, besides +boys. The house was small, and parties entering together +were limited to twenty. However, as the object is +merely to compliment the new married people and their +parents, after they had swallowed half a dozen mouthsful, +they immediately retired and left the coast clear for +the rest, and thus the ceremony was soon got through.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-278" id="V1-278"></a>[<a href="images/1-278.png">278</a>]</span> +There was an exception in the case of the soldiers, whose +hungry stomachs found the bazeen so good that they +stuck fast to the bowl, and <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'was'">were</ins> obliged to receive the +Irish hint of being pulled away by main force before +they would relinquish their tenacious grasp. My taleb, +as a matter of course, called upon me to go to the +festa. I found the festive hall to be a smallish oblong +room, the walls of which were garnished with a number +of little looking-glasses, polished brass basons, and various +other small matters, including little baskets made of +palm-branches. The floor was covered with matting and +a few showy carpets, and one or two ottomans were +arranged for seats. In the centre of the room was +placed an enormous wooden dish, full of bazeen, or thick +boiled pudding, made of barley-meal, with olive-oil, and +sauce of pounded dates poured upon it. Every person +ate with his hands, rolling the pudding into balls, and +dipping the balls into oil and date-sauce. A great piece +of carpetting was laid round the bowl, to be used as a +napkin to wipe the hands and mouth. The wooden dish +or bowl might have been three feet in diameter, and was +replenished as fast as emptied with masses of boiled +dough, oil, and date-sauce. There was suspended over it, +two or three feet above, a wicker roof, to prevent the dirt +from falling into it when the people stood up all around +and wiped their hands. The visitors squatted down +together, encircling the bowl, in numbers of about eight or +ten. An Arab, who had a lump given him in a corner, +like a dog, found fault with it and returned it, saying, +"It is not enough." This, of course, was delicate, but +another lump was given him, for which also he growled +dissatisfaction. This <i>feeding</i> of bazeen was the fullest<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-279" id="V1-279"></a>[<a href="images/1-279.png">279</a>]</span> +extent of the good things of the feast. Some of the +more respectable merchants went in and out without +tasting the bazeen, merely paying the compliment to +their friends. I asked an acquaintance how much he +thought a feast of this sort cost. He replied, "About +twenty dollars, but it is not the value of the materials of +the feast, but the custom, which is esteemed." Not one +of the Ben Weleed were present, but all the Wezeet +deemed it their duty to attend the feast. The marriage +feast is some eight days after the marriage. Last night +there was a little firing of matchlocks. After marriage, +the bridegroom cannot mix with his acquaintances for +two or three weeks. It is a sort of decamping after +marriage, as if the parties had done something of which +they were ashamed, like in travelling honey-moons +amongst ourselves. But at certain hours of the day the +bridegroom may be seen gliding about like a spectre in +the dark streets, alone and with noiseless tread. He +usually is dressed in gayest colours of blue and scarlet, +with a fine long stave of brass, or a bright iron spear in +his hand. When he is met by any one he instantly +vanishes: he does not utter a syllable, and no person +attempts to speak to him.</p> + +<p>This afternoon and evening was also a <i>native</i> feast of +the slaves. They first danced and sung in the market-place. +Afterwards they visited the <i>tombs</i>, and prayed +to their dead relatives, propitiating their manes, and "to +be restored to them and liberty at their death." The +women carried chafing-dishes in their hands, on which +burnt fragrantly the incense of <i>bekhour</i>. The pride of +men perpetuate their distinctions beyond life to the land +of the dead, where one would think the ashes of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-280" id="V1-280"></a>[<a href="images/1-280.png">280</a>]</span> +human body should be allowed freely to return to the +essential elements of our common mother, Earth. So +slaves have their place of burial, and must not commingle +their bones with those of freemen. From the grave-yard +and its sadness, the slaves proceeded to a garden, alotted +to them, where they danced, and sung, and forgot their +slavery. Besides dancing and singing, the slaves occasionally +fired off matchlocks, which they had borrowed +from their masters or friends, and of which they are +most immoderately fond. The high military chivalry of +Europe, and France, who calls herself <i>mère de l'épée</i>, are +well matched by the savage tribes and slaves of enslaved +Africa, who all delight in the slash and cut of the sword, +and the banging noise of the gun. The negresses sat +apart, as usual, occasionally raising their shrill <i>loo-looings</i>, +which they have well learnt from their Moorish mistresses. +They were very gaily attired, some with their arms +covered with bracelets and armlets, six or seven pairs of +very broad tin or silver hoops being fitted on or encircling +one single arm; so that the arms of some of these sable +beauties were an entire mass of metal. The party mustered +about a hundred, and the Tibboo stranger was +here, attracted by the colour of skin and native associations. +Several people went from the city to see the +slaves' festival—I amongst the rest. It would be great +injustice if I were not to add, that the Moorish inhabitants +of Ghadames ordinarily treat their slaves well; they +have a good deal of leisure, if not liberty; and their lot, +as compared with the slaves of the cotton and sugar +plantations of Christians, <i>is liberty itself</i>,—so differently +do religions affect, or not affect at all, the morality of the +people who profess them. To judge from this obvious<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-281" id="V1-281"></a>[<a href="images/1-281.png">281</a>]</span> +case of comparison, which is so notorious through all The +East and North Africa, as contrasted with the Christian +States of America, the religion of the impostor of Mecca +should be the religion of the divine morals of the New +Testament, and the religion of The Saviour be the corrupt +morals of the Koran. But if we were to judge of a +religion and its morals from those who profess it, our +ideas would soon get into confusion, and we should fall +into the most deplorable errors.</p> + +<p>Began to-day to acquire a few words of the Nigritian +languages. People are such geese, that when I learnt +half-a-dozen words of what some call the "<i>black</i>" language, +they thought me a prodigy. The Housa is the +best and most frequently spoken language here of the +Nigritian tongues. A New Testament, translated into +this language, would or could be read by a third of the +tribes of Central Africa. Asking my negro master what +<i>I</i> was, he replied, "<i>Kerdee</i>," which means <i>kafer</i> ("infidel") +in Bornou, the negro mistaking my individual self for +the pronoun <i>I</i>, which is <i>oomah</i>. I laughed heartily at +the fellow's impudence.</p> + +<p>This afternoon, visited the ancient tower, about half a +mile distant, westwards, from the walls of Ghadames. +My turjeman, who was <i>cicerone</i>, informed me that the +tower was built by the Christians, and was a watch-tower +to give alarm to the city in case of an attack from +banditti or other enemies. There is another like it in +the mountains to the north-west, where are also scattered +some old masonry of other buildings. We mounted the +top of the tower, and found a hollowed space at the top, +of this shape<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-282" id="V1-282"></a>[<a href="images/1-282.png">282</a>]</span>—</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-12.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-12_th.jpg" alt="Cistern of an Ancient Tower" title="Cistern of an Ancient Tower" /></a></p> + +<p>twenty feet long, eight broad, and about five deep. It +was evidently a cistern or tank for the troops, for we +saw a hole at the broad end, from which the water ran +out. The tower itself was about forty feet in diameter<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: added period to text">.</ins> +How high it had been, we could not now tell; but +the cistern is placed nearly at the top of what remains +of the tower. Probably the water ran down into the +lower rooms. From the tops of the ruins there was +a commanding view of the oasis, and the surrounding +Desert. On our way we passed a very deep, dry +well, and the wall-remains of several ancient gardens. +The turjeman says the water of Ghadames diminishes, +and was formerly much more abundant.</p> + +<p><i>11th.</i>—This morning cooler than any yet. My eyes +are now nearly restored from the attack of ophthalmia +which I had in Tripoli; they open always with a little +pain in the morning. It is frightful to observe how +many people here have their eyes injured. A poor +camel-driver said to me, "Alas! since I went that road +to Ghat, I have been nearly blind. The sand and rock +were too bright for them."</p> + +<p>An Algerine Arab arrived with those of Souf, a +species of vagrant marabout, bringing with him all the +lax liberal ideas of French Mussulmans. I thought at<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-283" id="V1-283"></a>[<a href="images/1-283.png">283</a>]</span> +first he had been sent as a spy, to see what I myself was +doing at Ghadames. The pious Ghadamseeah were confounded +at his discourses, as he held forth in the streets. +He was very clever and facetious, now and then affecting +the saint—now the reformer. When he was gone, I +asked the people what they thought of him. They +replied, "He's spoilt—he's a <i>French</i> Mussulman—he'll +soon be an infidel." Others said, "He's mad." This +stranger brings the news that all is peace in Algeria. +One of the people asked him, "Whether it was really +true that the French had got so far into the interior as +Constantine?" The Algerine says also, Abdel-Kader is +escaped to The Desert. The Emir had been at war +with the French during the summer. My taleb, speaking +of the French, observed, "Buonaparte had no father." I +endeavoured in vain to persuade him to the contrary; +and pressing him to tell me under whose influence he was +begotten, he at last said, "You think I'm a fool, but his +father was one of the Jenoun ("demons").<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: added missing quotation mark">"</ins> This is rather +a good ancestry, for the Jenoun are, on the whole, a +harmless, pleasant sort of people, a disposition which the +war-loving tyrant Corsican rarely showed.</p> + +<p><i>12th.</i>—Rose earlier than usual, before sunrise, in +order to go to the marabet<a name="FNa_1-49" id="FNa_1-49"></a><a href="#FoN_1-49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a> of Sidi-Mâbed—‮سيدي مَع٘بد‬. +My turjeman had married his wife from this +place, and therefore accompanied me. He said, "I +married one of the daughters of the Saint, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-284" id="V1-284"></a>[<a href="images/1-284.png">284</a>]</span> +his blood runs in the veins of my children." In all +The Desert we find this aristocracy of the gentle +blood of the Saints. Sidi-Mâbed is two miles and +a half from Ghadames due west. It is situate upon the +slope of a small valley, which might formerly have +been the bed of a river. To look at this speck of +an oasis, its appearance is not unlike that of Seenawan. +Around, and near the little village, which may consist +of some fifteen very lowly dwellings, is a cluster +of palms, and further on are two or three single ones, +scattered over the sloping valley. At the furthest distance +are some patches of cultivation, the water running +gurgling down to them. The gardens are of the same +character as those of Ghadames. The inhabitants consist +of some seventy souls, all the descendants of one +man, the famous saint who has given his name to the +village. But according to the account of his sons, his +offspring has not increased very fast, for it is several +hundred years,—even 900 say they—since His Maraboutship +flourished. Some place him as far back as the +Flood. It is said that Nimroud did not place his iron +hoof on this sacred spot. The daughters of the Saint +marry away, only the sons remain in the oasis, and some +of these emigrate, which accounts for the smallness of the +Saint's offspring.</p> + +<p>The children of this Saint, like many a saint himself, +are very ignorant, and only one of them pretends to +read and write, and to-day he was unfortunately not in +the oasis. Those with whom I conversed were simple +rude peasants, but polite in their manners, with countenances +speaking a serenity of soul and happiness of +disposition, not common to the inhabitants of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-285" id="V1-285"></a>[<a href="images/1-285.png">285</a>]</span> +Saharan regions. They told me their village was +<i>Zaweea</i> ("a sanctuary"), and was recorded in the sacred +archives of Constantinople as one of the most renowned +places in the countries of the Prophet. It is, at any rate, +one of the most venerated sanctuaries in the Sahara, +and receives pious offerings from all. Amidst wars and +tumults, and the depredations of banditti without and +around, it remains secure and inviolate and inviolable. +This has been its happy destiny through ages, and the +villagers, poor and ignorant as they are, may be proud +of their sacred unpolluted home. We have here a +remarkable instance of the triumph of religious principle +over brute force. The people of Ghadames make +continual pilgrimages to the shrine of the Saint. The +villagers brought our party dates, and all the women and +children came out to look at me; the same jealous +feelings do not exist amongst these unsuspecting untutored +people as in Ghadames and other Desert cities. +A happy thought occurred to me before I came away in +the morning, of bringing them some wedding-cakes and +sweets which had been sent to me: these I brought, +with several loaves of bread. They received them very +gratefully, dividing them among the whole population of +seventy people, a morsel for each. They have no wheaten +bread here; they live not on the "fat of the land," as the +Christian poverty-vowing monks of our own and past +times. These Desert saints are content with a scanty +supply of barley-meal, a little olive-oil, and a few dates. +I had been told they did not approve of holding <i>Ben-Adam</i> +as slaves, and was greatly disappointed to hear +a reply from one of them, "If we had money we would +have slaves; we have no slaves, because we have no<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-286" id="V1-286"></a>[<a href="images/1-286.png">286</a>]</span> +money." By the way, the poverty of North Africa and +The Sahara is one of the principal causes of the few +domestic slaves now kept, in comparison with former +times.</p> + +<p>When we had been in the village a few minutes, an +Arab soldier came hastily after us. He was sent by the +Rais, who was frightened out of his wits, his Excellency +giving out, that I should be attacked by banditti. +His Excellency said, on my return, "<i>Why, why?</i> (apparently +displeased, many people being with him,) whenever +you go out, come to me, and I will give you an +armed Arab soldier." He added; "You and I will go +and see the Zaweea on horseback." The fact is, some of +the people were jealous of a Christian going to their +sacred village, and considered it a pollution, and the Rais +was obliged to make a show of opposition and displeasure. +The children of the Saint manifested none of +these exclusive jealous feelings, and were happy to see +me. In the course of an hour, though my turjeman and +myself came off early and secretly, it was known all over +the city the Christian had gone to the sanctuary, and +the more bigoted were not a little excited. In the +village, although everything has the appearance of the +most abject poverty, all is bright and clean. The tomb +of the Saint remains, but is concealed from the world, +enveloped in profound mystery, suitable to the exciting +of superstitious feelings. In the gardens were many +pretty butterflies. I noticed a single cotton-tree, and +gathered two or three ripe pods; the tree looked unhealthy +and was very dwarfish. The Sahara is not the +place for cotton growing; formerly, however, cotton was +grown at Carthage, the Jereed, and other parts of North<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-287" id="V1-287"></a>[<a href="images/1-287.png">287</a>]</span> +Africa. Sir Thomas Reade has lately tried cotton-growing +on the lands of Carthage, but not succeeded very +well. We went to see the date-trees, and seeing one a +mere bush, without a trunk, I said; "How long has that +been so, will it ever bear dates?" A son of the Saint +said; "That tree has been there as long as I can remember. +It was always so. Date-trees are like mankind, +some are tall, some are dwarfish, some fat, some +lean, some bear fruit and others are barren. The root +descends into the earth as low as the length of a man. +God created this place and gave us this garden. We +and our children shall keep it until the Judgment-day! +From this garden we shall ascend to that of paradise, +where we shall have dates always ripe and ready for +eating, for every tree is large and fruitful there. And +no man dare touch these trees without our permission, +not even the Rais or the Bashaw. We pay nothing to +any man; all cast before us their offerings. But we +have little because we want little. Such is the will of +God." Here then is the abode of inviolate sanctity! +here sits the protecting genius of Ghadames, like a +pelican in the wilderness! I observed again to-day the +burnt volcanic stones scattered over The Desert. They +were of all colours, yellow, black, brown, and red, like so +many brick-bats. These stones scattered for miles +around, together with the hot-spring of the city, and +many of the low dull Saharan hills, like so many heaps +of scoriæ and lava, give apparently a volcanic origin to +all these regions, or render such a supposition probable.</p> + +<p>In full Divan it was decided this morning to clear out +a little the hot-spring and its ducts running to the gardens, +in order to give the flow of water more room. Some old<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-288" id="V1-288"></a>[<a href="images/1-288.png">288</a>]</span> +people say their fathers cleaned it out, and the water ran +more abundantly; the deeper their fathers dug the well, +the more the water gushed out. Others are opposed to +the innovation, opposed to all change, being the good old +Tories of the Saharan city. All the people are to go in +a few days and set to work at this cleaning, that means +their slaves. Went to see this evening a sick Touarick, +out of town in his tent, and gave him some medicine; +but shall be obliged to leave off distributing soon, for the +most useful medicines are nearly all finished.</p> + +<p><i>13th.</i>—Weather becomes daily cooler. Get tired of +writing, and wish to be off in The Desert. A courier +from The Mountains has arrived, bringing a note from +Ahmed Effendi, who says, "The people of Ghadames +have no occasion to send a deputation to Tripoli. They +must pay the extraordinary demand of 3,000 mahboubs +at once, without farther dispute or delay." People are +in consternation; they all say they've no more money. +My taleb assures me he was obliged to sell two of his +shirts to make up the last amount of the regular tax. +What is to be done for extraordinary demands? The +fortifications of <i>Emjessem</i> are to be immediately rebuilt. +The mud and salt walls are to be destroyed, and new +ones of stone and lime are to replace them. Rais +showed me the plan of the fonduk, which was nearly +executed. This looks like perseverance on the part of +the Turks, and shows their determination to keep open +the communication between this and Tripoli. The fonduk, +or caravanseria, will be eighty feet long and thirty +wide. It is to be built by the people of Ghadames, who, +whilst working, will be protected by sixty Arab troops. +The expense to be also paid by Ghadames. Rais is<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-289" id="V1-289"></a>[<a href="images/1-289.png">289</a>]</span> +going to see the works begin. Besides the new fonduk, +Rais has taken the precaution of stopping up a well, a +day's journey north-east from the city, by rolling into it +a huge stone. This is for the same object, to prevent +brigands coming near the city and lying in wait for small +caravans and isolated travellers. Fifty sheep were +brought into Souk to-day; they were immediately sold. +People fatten them for the <i>Ayd-Kebir</i>, each family +endeavouring to procure one as a religious obligation.</p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—Went early this morning to <i>Ben Weleed</i> to +find my aged friend, Sheikh Ali. He has the largest +species of dates, and invited me to go to his garden to +see the palms.</p> + +<p>Sheikh Ali is a man of ancient days, and ancient +honour and resources, and fallen into a very low estate. +He has not only outlived his age and reputation, but +outlived his wealth and riches and has become "poor +indeed." A long flowing white beard now covers his +receding breast, and the wrinkles of ninety years furrow +his pale brow and sunken cheeks. Nevertheless, dignity, +though ruined, is stamped on his countenance, and +an almost youthful activity and hale health keep up the +great burden of his years. On arriving at the old man's +garden, he told me to follow him, and coming to a very +fine lofty palm, with over-hanging wide-spreading boughs, +he sat down under its ample shade, and bade me sit +by his side. "Christian," he said, "I have sat under the +shade of this palm all the days of my life, and shall +recline here till God summons me hence."</p> + +<p>"How old are the longest-lived palms?" I returned.</p> + +<p>"More than the ages of three old men's lives," observed +the Sheikh.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-290" id="V1-290"></a>[<a href="images/1-290.png">290</a>]</span></p> + +<p>An old slave, as ancient-looking as his master, now +brought a basket of dates, they were every one of them +larger than our largest walnuts. I am vexed I have forgotten +the name of this splendid variety of the date. +"Eat," said Sheikh Ali, and reclined back in silence for +at least half an hour. Now and then he opened his +eyes to look on the autumnal beams of the rising sun, +then breathed a sigh and a prayer, but did not address +me a word. His ancient slave sat at a distance with his +eyes fixed on his beloved master, watching the movement +of his lips, as he breathed his morning prayer. At +length, seeing the old man's lips cease to move, I said +gently:—</p> + +<p>"Sheikh Ali, they say you have broken down very +much, but I am glad to see you confide your sorrows in +the bosom of God."</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Ali.</i>—(Awakening up suddenly, and looking at +me anxiously) "Ah, Christian, have they told you so? +The detractors, the wretches!"</p> + +<p>"I trust I have not offended you."</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Ali.</i>—"No, stranger, no. But I hate them. I +hate the world. I curse the world."</p> + +<p>"The unfortunate and disappointed are always bitter +upon the world. But you, Sheikh Ali, I know are above +spite and malignity: you would not stoop even to hate +the miserable follies of the world."</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Ali.</i>—"Christian, thou talkest well, and in my +way. I tell thee I hate no one, I have lived and I shall +soon be done with the world. May those who come after +me fare better."</p> + +<p>"What is this hatred of the Ben Weleed and the +Ben Wezeet?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-291" id="V1-291"></a>[<a href="images/1-291.png">291</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Ali.</i>—(Smiling faintly.) "Christian, thou wilt +know everything. My father told me when I came out +of the belly of my mother, that I was a <i>Ben Wezeelee</i>, +and I have remained so to this day. But why or wherefore, +I know not? Dost thou not see that people do this +and that, and know not why they do it? Well, Christian, +we do not hate the Ben Wezeet; but we will not +associate with them, because we are proud, and because +our fathers did not associate with them. It is pride, not +hatred, which divides this our nation into two."</p> + +<p>"Why so proud? It says in the Koran the Devil +would not admire Adam for pride<a name="FNa_1-50" id="FNa_1-50"></a><a href="#FoN_1-50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a>, and God cursed him +for his pride."</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Ali.</i>—"Ah, Christian, how knowest thou the +Koran? Canst thou read the Great and Mighty Koran?"</p> + +<p>"In England we read the Koran in order to obtain a +correct knowledge of classic Arabic. Others read it to +understand the religion of Moslems."</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Ali.</i>—"Right, right. The Christians are a +wise people. Oh, these religions!"</p> + +<p>I thought I heard a regret of scepticism, or a kindly +view of heretics and infidels, in the latter exclamation, +"<i>Oh, these religions!</i>" So I observed to the Sheikh, "A<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-292" id="V1-292"></a>[<a href="images/1-292.png">292</a>]</span> +pity it is we are not all of one religion, as we are all the +children of one Creator."</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Ali.</i>—"By G——! Christian, thou art right. +I have always prayed God to lead me in the right way, +and to have mercy upon others. But do you know, +Christian, I think there were amongst those prophets of +ancient times many impostors. What do you think?"</p> + +<p>"I am sure of it. It is also the opinion of all our +wise men in England."</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Ali.</i>—"Christian, I hate Marabouts. In the +long years of my life I have seen all their tricks, lies, +and impositions. I am sorry for the poor people, on +whom they practise their impostures, and also for the +women. I have one daughter; I never permitted her to +consult a marabout. I told her what the wretches were. +Have you marabouts in England?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, of all descriptions. We have also many who +get the women to confess the secrets of families, and +create an odious war in the bosom of society."</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Ali.</i>—"Ah, ah (chuckling), all the world's +alike. God curse those marabouts. Do you give them +money?"</p> + +<p>"Money! In our country, nothing is done without +money."</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Ali.</i>—(Becoming fresh excited.) "What! are +the English like us? is a man esteemed for his money?"</p> + +<p>"You have heard of London?"</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Ali.</i>—"<i>Londra?</i>"</p> + +<p>"Yes, that's it. Well, in Londra, nor virtue, nor +honour, nor wisdom, is worth anything without money."</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Ali.</i>—"The Devil take the world, it's all alike. +So here, so there. When I was rich, everybody bowed<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-293" id="V1-293"></a>[<a href="images/1-293.png">293</a>]</span> +down to me; now that I am poor, they pass me by without +saying <i>bis-slamah</i> (saluting). Why did God make +money? How wretched is the world." So this philosopher +of The Desert continued. Returning, I bade the +ancient Sheikh an affectionate adieu.</p> + +<p>In the streets, people appeared to be fasting, as in the +most rigid Ramadan. I never saw such gloomy, emaciated +faces. Really people look as if they were all going +to give up the ghost. What is to become of these poor +devils of dervishes! Government is grinding them down +to the dust! Returned home heart-sick at the sight. I +am growing daily more impatient of remaining so long +in Ghadames. Impatience comes on like attacks of +fever. Have determined again to pursue the Kanou +route.</p> + +<p>The forty slaves brought by the Touaricks and the +Tibboo have been all sold to the Souafah. The Tibboo +sold his for twenty dollars per head. The ten dollars per +head tax on them put the Rais in possession of a little +ready money, and his Excellency paid me back the hundred +Tunisian piastres. The Arabs of Souf always +bring money here, and, besides dollars, a quantity of +five-franc pieces, since the French have occupied Algeria. +The millions spent or wasted by the French in Algeria +are variously disposed of:—</p> + +<p>1st.—The Arabs get a <i>fifth</i>, who bury their money, +or send it into the neighbouring deserts of Tunis and +Morocco.</p> + +<p>2nd. The Maltese ship off a <i>ninth</i> of the money to +Malta. The Spaniards and other foreigners also get a +share.</p> + +<p>3rd. A great quantity, a fifth, perhaps, is embezzled<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-294" id="V1-294"></a>[<a href="images/1-294.png">294</a>]</span> +by the <i>employés</i> of the civil administration, and their +creatures, the contractors.</p> + +<p>4th. A tenth is spent on the public works.</p> + +<p>5th. The rest is paid to the military. A <i>fraction</i> +only is spent on the culture of the soil, and for the purposes +of emigration, or the real colonization of the +country.</p> + +<p><i>15th.</i>—This morning is really cold, and the coldest +morning we have had yet. Rais assures me I shall with +difficulty be able to bear the cold, so intense is it in +Ghadames during the winter, or January and February. +Greatly agitated about my journey in the past night, and +could not sleep. There will soon be an end of this uncertainty. +I pray God to give me patience and wisdom. +Observe people are beginning to feel the effects of the +cold, and cover up their mouths like the Italians and +Spaniards. But all are living up to the starvation-point.</p> + +<p>At noon was held a full Divan, to decide upon the +"extraordinary demand." The chiefs of the people +said:—"We have no money, and cannot pay." The +Rais replied:—"Such discourse will not do; you have +money, and must pay." Then the Divan broke up without +farther palavering. The alleged object of the +money to be raised, is for the expenses of the troops who +went in pursuit of the Arabs of the son of Abd-el-Geleel +in the past summer.</p> + +<p>The old bandit calls and says:—"Your friend, the +<i>long</i> man, has finished to-day all his tobacco." The long +man is the Giant Touarick. I took no notice of this +polite hint to furnish a new supply. I might furnish +with tobacco all the Touaricks who came here, if I were<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-295" id="V1-295"></a>[<a href="images/1-295.png">295</a>]</span> +to attend to these Irish hints. The old bandit, who is +cramped up like a wizened apple, is said by people still +to carry on his nefarious trade. The proof of this they +give to be, his always <i>going alone</i> when he travels. The +old villain then catches what he can. Myself, I hardly +believe he continues his brigandage. He appears wholly +worn out. I gave his little son 20 paras to buy camel's +flesh. The old freebooter grinned a ghastly smile. +Walking in <i>Ben Weleed</i> quarters, I heard a great to-do, and +went to see what it was, when I saw the old chief, Haj +Ben Mousa Ettanee, standing over his young truant son, +whilst with a thick stick the servant of the schoolmaster +was belabouring the feet of the child. Never was a +more complete bastinadoing. The urchin cried to his +father for mercy. It was perfectly in character with the +old man, and the austere manners of his family. I +do not wonder that all the people read and write in +Ghadames, when such severity is practised by the very +aristocrats of the city. Whilst standing by, another +Moor went up to the old man, and said, "Stop, stop, +here's the Christian looking on." They stopped, but it +appeared a mere pretence for leaving off, for already +they had unmercifully belaboured the truant.</p> + +<p>No mutton to be had to-day, and was obliged to buy +camel's flesh for dinner: found it pretty good. My +turjeman and taleb both joined me. After dinner, the +taleb began in his usual controversial spirit. He insisted, +that "Any person who should make himself well +acquainted with the Koran must become a Mussulman." +"If the French teach their children to read the Koran, +in order to learn the Arabic," said he, "they must conquer +the Russians and the English." Not <span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-296" id="V1-296"></a>[<a href="images/1-296.png">296</a>]</span>"<ins class="grk" title="Greek: en toutô nicha">εν τουτω νιχα</ins><a name="FNa_1-51" id="FNa_1-51"></a><a href="#FoN_1-51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a>," +but in or with <i>This Book</i>, say the Mussulmans, +the world must be conquered. The Russians and the +French, having recently made conquests in Mohammedan +countries near them, (for the wars in Circassia are heard +of here,) impress these people with fear, and fear is their +ruling principle of government. Asking my taleb why +the Mussulmans who had possession of <i>This Book</i> did +not conquer the world, he answered sharply, "The Mussulmans +conquered the world once with the Koran, but +now they have lost their faith, and are weak, and such is +the will of God." The taleb then related a curious story +about Ceuta. A certain marabout, who had seen the +<i>Elouh Elmahfouth</i> (‮الوح المحفوظ‬,) or "Book of Fate," +which was let down to him to look at and read in, from +heaven, went into the city, and offered Ceuta for sale at +the low price of "<i>a loaf of bread</i>." The people said:—"Oh, +the man is mad, let him go." But he continued +the more to cry out, "Who will give me a loaf of bread +for Ceuta?" At last he met a Christian, a Spaniard, +who gave the Marabout a loaf of bread, and took possession +of the city. This seems really an excuse for the +loss of that strong fortress. But it is added:—"The +Marabout having seen and read the future destiny of +Ceuta in the <i>Book of Fate</i>, was determined to hasten +the crisis, and placed it at once in the hands of the +Christians." My taleb assures me that Mahomet was +foretold and promised in our gospels, under the name of +<i>Parakleit</i>, (<i>i. e.</i> <ins class="grk" title="Greek: ho Paraklêtos">ὁ Παράκλητος</ins>,), "The Comforter." He +cited also the Koran, but would not write the passage; I +had no Koran with me. But this is an advantage, for if<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-297" id="V1-297"></a>[<a href="images/1-297.png">297</a>]</span> +I had had a Koran in my possession, I should only have +excited the prejudices of the people against me, and +should not have been able to have kept it from them. +A traveller might take a translation advantageously, one +without Arabic notes, or <i>Arabic</i> words explained, which +would soon excite their curiosity to know what it was. +Speaking of the "<i>Ben Welleed</i>" and "<i>Wezeet</i>," my +turjeman said:—"These are the French and the English; +we are always at war with one another."</p> + +<p>It is the opinion of people here, that the French and +English are always at war, and they are continually on +the <i>qui-vive</i> for a war breaking out between France and +England, for they think then the English will drive out +the French from Algeria, unmindful of what miseries +such a war would entail upon themselves, crushed as +they would be between the two great hostile Powers.</p> + +<p>The Algerine dervish is playing off some fine tricks. +This afternoon he got together a dozen low fellows of the +Ben Weleed, and went to say the <i>fatah</i> before the Governor. +This saying <i>fatah</i> was chiefly forming a circle +with his troop, himself in the middle, and then at the +top of his voice singing out, whilst his troop cried out, +"<i>hhahh</i>," jumping up, and bending forward their heads +and bodies towards him. This they continued for an +hour or more, until they sank upon the floor with exhaustion. +Afterwards they played off some other genteel +tricks. His Excellency the Rais is as great a dervish +as any mad fellow here, and though suffering greatly +from headache and bad eyes, he endured this tomfoolery +for nearly a couple of hours. My taleb, a shrewd man, +said to me, "Don't you see, I told you this Algerian +was an impostor?" I believe really he is a French<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-298" id="V1-298"></a>[<a href="images/1-298.png">298</a>]</span> +spy on the movements of the Turks, and perhaps +myself. The Tibboo calls. He is preparing to depart, +and presses me to go with him. Speaking to a Touarick, +he said, "See the money of the Christians (taking hold +of my black buttons)." Many people have half a mind +to believe my black buttons are money. The Tibboo +says, there are no watches in Soudan. People are content +to measure time by the sun's rising and setting. +Some merchants, lately come from Tunis, have heard of +the projected aërial machine. They have no difficulty +in believing that Christians travel in the air. They +think the Devil, being very clever, teaches Christians all +these things. The <i>Touatee</i> calls, and says, "You must +write something." "What?" I answer. "Oh," he replies, +"My wife has a head full of fantazia (or nonsense); +this you must write." It appears the Touatee has got a +scolding wife. Told the Rais about this funny incident, +who said, "Tell the <i>Touatee</i> to go home and pretend +he's going to take another wife, and then she'll soon +leave off pouting."</p> + +<p><i>16th</i> and <i>17th.</i>—Continues cold. People say I improve +in Arabic. I ought, for I have enough of it. +What is odd, I begin to joke with the people. It will be +seen I have represented the Saharan people as mostly +gloomy, and suffering from the oppression of their Government. +Still there are times when they can force a +smile, or crack a joke. They carry the joke so far that +they have sometimes joked me about my fasting in Ramadan, +a very sacred subject for a Mussulman. Every +time I go into the streets, I meet with one or other with +whom I try to get up a joke, for it grieves me to see the +people suffer so much from bad government. After we<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-299" id="V1-299"></a>[<a href="images/1-299.png">299</a>]</span> +come to satire, and with the help of the word <i>batel</i>, +"good-for-nothing," we manage to hit off somebody. +An Arab Sheikh came to us, one day, when we were +joking. I said, "Oh! here's the lion-heart, who ran +away from Emjessem for fear of the <i>Shânbah-Bātel</i>." +The Arab, astounded, "Ya rajel (Oh man), I had nothing +to eat!" "Nor have we here," replied a merchant, +"you better go and hunt with the greyhounds of the +Touaricks. The Rais has taken away all our victuals." +The poor Arab went his way very queer and crestfallen.</p> + +<p>Speaking to a Moor of The Sahara, I said, "The +Sahara is always healthy: look at these Touaricks, they +are the children of The Desert." He replied, "The +Sahara is the sea <i>on land</i>, and, like sea, is always more +healthy than cultivated spots of the earth. These Touaricks +are chiefly strong and powerful from drinking +camels' milk<a name="FNa_1-52" id="FNa_1-52"></a><a href="#FoN_1-52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a>. They drink it for months together, often +for four or five months, not eating or drinking anything +else. After they have drank it some time, they have no +evacuations for four or five days, and these are as white +as my bornouse. It is the camels' milk which makes the +Touaricks like lions. A boy shoots up to manhood in +few years; and there's nothing in the world so nourishing +as camel's milk." Caillié mentions that the chief of +the Braknas lived for several months on nothing but +milk; but it was cow's milk. Many of the Saharan +tribes are supported for six months out of twelve on +milk.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-300" id="V1-300"></a>[<a href="images/1-300.png">300</a>]</span></p> +<p>The Moors seem to have a secret dislike for women, as +well as a most obstinate desire to tyrannize over them. +There is a lurking desire of this sort in the men-sex of +all countries. Are we not the Lords of Creation? I +actually get afraid of avowing to them that the supreme +ruler of England is <i>a woman</i>, they are so confoundedly +annoyed at the circumstance. The first questions of their +surprise are, "How? Why?" &c. My taleb is very +fond of supporting the doctrine of a woman having only +a <i>fifth</i> of her father's property. I annoy him by telling +him it's a bad law, and that the daughter should have +an equal share with the son. Lady Morgan is sadly +wanted here; she would find ample additional materials +for a second edition of "Woman and her Master."</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-48" id="FoN_1-48"></a><a href="#FNa_1-48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> <i>Bazeen</i>, ‮بزين‬, called also <i>Aseedah</i>, ‮عصيدة‬.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-49" id="FoN_1-49"></a><a href="#FNa_1-49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> Some have endeavoured to distinguish in English the mausoleum +in which a dead saint is laid by the term Mara<i>bet</i>, though in +Arabic both the dead and living saint, and the cupola house in +which the dead saint is laid, are all called Mara<i>bout</i>. When a village +or town, is built round the mausoleum of a saint, it is also +called after the saint, as in the instance now related.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-50" id="FoN_1-50"></a><a href="#FNa_1-50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> "We (God) created you, and afterwards formed you (mankind); +and then said unto the angels, <i>Worship</i> Adam; and they +worshipped him, except Eblis (The Devil), who was not one of +those who worshipped. God said unto him, What hindered thee +from worshipping Adam, since I had commanded thee? He answered, +I am more excellent than he: thou hast created me of fire, +and has created him of clay. God said, Get thee down therefore +from Paradise; for it is not fit that thou behave thyself <i>proudly</i> +therein: get thee hence; thou shalt be one of the contemptible."—<i>Surat</i> +vii. <i>Intitled Al-Araf.</i></p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-51" id="FoN_1-51"></a><a href="#FNa_1-51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> The words in the <i>Cross</i>, which Constantine is reported to have +seen in the heavens.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-52" id="FoN_1-52"></a><a href="#FNa_1-52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> When the milk is fresh it is called by the Arabs ‮حليب‬, +when sour, ‮لبن‬.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-301" id="V1-301"></a>[<a href="images/1-301.png">301</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<h3>CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHADAMES.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Gaiety of the Black Dervish.—Walking Dance of the Slaves.—The +Fullans or Fellatahs.—<i>Shoushoua</i>, or scarifying the face of +Negroes.—Terms used in connexion with Slaves.—The <i>Razzia</i>.—A +Souafee Politician.—Parallel Customs between The East +and The Sahara.—The mercenary Blood-letter.—Indifference to +the sufferings of the Arab Troops.—Colour of the people in +Paradise.—Excellent Government of the Fullanee Nations.—Moors +do not fondle their Children.—Administering Physic to +Camels.—Simplicity of Touarick manners.—Knocked down by +a Pinch of Snuff.—Departure of the Tibboo alone to Ghat.—Blood +in White Sugar, and Anecdote of Colonel Warrington +and Yousef Bashaw about collecting old Bones.—Colonel +Warrington compared to the late Mr. Hay.—Said, a subject of +Anti-Slavery discussion.—Specimen of Desert Arab freedom.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>18th.</i>—<span class="smcap">With</span> the full moon the cold has regularly +set in. Good-bye flies and good-bye scorpions. Can +now write with my door open, without being covered +with flies. Can also sleep without waking up at midnight +to kill scorpions running over the mattresses. +The mad black dervish is always in motion, and full of +gaiety. People are so fond of him that they think he is +inspired. When all the Moors are in solemn vacant +thought, or brooding over their griefs, or dreaming in +broad day of their being marabouts or sultans, the poor +witless thing runs in amongst them, shaking hands with +the first he meets with, and bursts out a-laughing. He +usually succeeds in infusing a little of his cheerfulness +into these equally <i>mad</i> people, but more sober in their<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-302" id="V1-302"></a>[<a href="images/1-302.png">302</a>]</span> +method of madness. Yesterday the slaves had another +feast <i>for the dead</i>. The Moors allow their slaves the +liberty of blending the two religions, as Rome has +allowed the blending of Christianity and paganism. +And when questioned about it they say; "Oh, the +slaves know only a little of Allah, and are not much +better than donkeys in their understandings." The slaves +assembled to the number of some fifty in the Souk. +Here they performed a species of walking dance, in two +right lines, very slow and very stiff and measured, having +attached to it some mysterious meaning. They were +gaily dressed, attended with a drum and iron castanets, +making melodious noises. Each had a matchlock slung +at his back. The women carried a chafing-dish of +incense, as if about to raise some spirit or ghost. A +crowd was around them; but they performed nothing +but this slow-marching dance, and then retired to the +tombs. The dervish, poor fellow, mingled in the gay +throng, shouldering a stick for a gun.</p> + +<p>Received many little presents from people lately. +Sheikh Makouran brought me himself a small basket of +very fine dates. My taleb afterwards brought me some +<i>gharghoush</i>, or small cakes, made of flour, honey, sugar, +and milk. They are extremely pleasant eating and a +little <i>acid</i>, which adds greatly to their flavour. There +are but few things acid in this country; of sour things +there is an abundance.</p> + +<p>Heard a great deal about the Foullans, Foulahs, and +Fellatahs, the predominant race in Soudan. <i>Foullan</i> +(‮فلّان فلّانين فلّاني‬) is the Soudanic term, <i>Fellatah</i> +the Bornouese, and <i>Foulah</i> what is used to denominate<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-303" id="V1-303"></a>[<a href="images/1-303.png">303</a>]</span> +them among the Mandingoes. According to information +here, they were once the most miserable race of <i>Arab</i> +wanderers in The Desert. But at last they settled down +as neighbours to the Negroes, some 700 years since. +They continued to increase in numbers and importance, +abandoning tents and building villages and towns, and +intermixing with the Negroes, till about forty-five (and +others thirty-five) years ago, when they expanded their +ideas to conquest and renown. About this time they +made the conquest of Kanou, Succatou, and the other +large cities of Housa. Never a people rose to greater +fame and power. They were assisted, like the Saracens +before them, by religious fanaticism, and so far corresponded +with them, in extending the boundaries of Islamism. +They went on conquering and to conquer till within the +present year, when their power received some check by +the daring exploits of the Tibboo prince of Zinder, a +vassal of Bornou. This prince has taken from them a +few towns. The complexion of the ordinary Fullanee is +a deep olive, with pleasing features, not much Negro, and +long hair.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-13.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-13_th.jpg" alt="Negro's Head" title="Negro's Head" /></a></p> + +<p>Negroes in Nigritia are known by the <i>Shoushoua</i> +(‮شوشوا‬), or scarifying. Generally in Negro countries, +which profess the Mohammedan religion, the <i>Shoushoua</i> +is abandoned as <i>haram</i> or prohibited. It is mostly the +sign of paganism. The operation is performed by a +sharp cutting instrument, and is never <i>effaced</i> from the +face during life. The annexed drawing presents the +<i>Shoushoua</i> of the Negroes of Tombo, near Jinnee, who +are pagans. Whenever the slaves see these marks they +know the country of the other slaves who bear them. +Formerly it could be ascertained whether a slave was<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-304" id="V1-304"></a>[<a href="images/1-304.png">304</a>]</span> +born on the coast, or brought from the interior, by the +presence or absence of the <i>Shoushoua</i>. Now it cannot, +because the practice is discontinued in countries subject +to Moslem rule, whence slaves are sometimes brought. +In Ghadames a freed slave is called <i>mâtouk</i> (‮معتوق‬) +or <i>horr</i> (‮حرّ‬). The terms <i>waseef</i> (‮وسيف‬) and sometimes +<i>mamlouk</i> (‮مملوك‬) are employed for a single +slave, and <i>âbeed</i> (‮عبيد‬) for many. The Arabic terms +‮قايد الوصفان‬ "the chief of slaves," are used to denote +the person who is responsible for the conduct of slaves, +or the "Sheikh of the slaves." The word <span class="smcap">Razzia</span>, which +the French are said to have invented, and which has +acquired such a <i>triste</i> celebrity by their butcheries of the +Arabs in Algeria, is derived from the same word as +designates a Slave-hunt (<i>ghazah</i>)<a name="FNa_1-53" id="FNa_1-53"></a><a href="#FoN_1-53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> amongst our Saharan +people. The verb is ‮غَزَا‬ <i>ghaza</i>, "petivit," which in the +second conjugation means, "expeditione bellica petivit +hostem," and the noun in use is ‮غَزَاة‬ <i>ghazah</i>, "expeditione +bellica." The Bornouese word to denote a slave-hunt, +as carried on by the Touaricks, is <span class="smcap">Din</span>, applied to +private kidnapping expeditions, and means, I think,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-305" id="V1-305"></a>[<a href="images/1-305.png">305</a>]</span> +simply "theft," showing that not by war, as captives, but +by "theft," "stealing," the "man-stealing" of the Apostle +Paul, are slaves generally procured in Central Africa. It +is only just that <i>razzia</i> and <i>ghazah</i>, the same words, +should be so closely allied in application to their different +actions. The French, to do the thing properly, +and in their usual style, should erect a monument upon +the "Place" of the city of Algiers, to the new invention +<span class="smcap">Razzia</span>, with its derivations from <i>ghazah</i>, "a slave-hunt." +A prize essay might also be proposed to the Oriental +Chair of Paris, and its various students, now looking for +distinction as interpreters in the land of <span class="smcap">Razzias</span> or +"butcheries," for the best derivation and historical +progress of the term <span class="smcap">Razzia</span>, as used by Christian and +civilized nations, in relation to infidel and Mohammedan +barbarians. At the bottom of the monument erected by +the French to the <span class="smcap">Demon Razzia</span>, may be appended the +following veracious words, copied from the late proclamation +of the Duc d'Aumale, on his assumption of the +high post of Governor-General of Algeria (<i>Moniteur +Algérien</i>, October 20, 1847):—"You have learned by +experience, O Mussulmans! how just and clement is the +Government of France." The Duke unpardonably forgets +to cite one of the last proofs of this just and clement +Government, the roasting of a tribe of Arabs, men, women +and children in the caverns of the Atlas! . . . . Will +not the Lying Bulletin (native of France) be +proclaimed till doomsday?</p> + +<p>This morning the merchants asked me why the +English did not drive out the French from Algeria. +They had often badgered me with this subject. I +thought it better to speak plainly at once, and for all.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-306" id="V1-306"></a>[<a href="images/1-306.png">306</a>]</span> +I began by asking, why should the English drive out the +French? and continued, "France and England are now +at peace. They don't wish to make war at all, and +England does not consider Algeria of such importance as +to go to war about it. England did not derive much +benefit from Algeria when Mussulmans ruled there; +besides the Algerines were always sea-robbers. The +English were obliged to go and chastise them several +times before the French captured their country. And +do not think, that if war did take place between England +and France, and the English should drive the French out +of Algeria, the country would therefore be given up to +the Sultan and the Mussulmans. The English might +wish to rule there themselves. Upon no account +wish for war in Algeria, for the miseries of the war +would chiefly fall upon you, Mussulmans." This completely +settled them, and exasperated them, as well it +might; they said no more. The Mussulmans always +have in their memories the conduct of the English when +they drove out the French from Egypt, and discussing +this kind of politics, it is quite natural.</p> + +<p>Afterwards I heard a Souafee holding forth to another +group. His theme was, the Shânbah, Warklah, Touaricks, +Tugurt, Souf, and Ghadames, and it was evident +to him that besides the people now enumerated there +were no others in the world. A respectable Moor +observed at the time, "That Souafee is a rascal. He's +as great a robber as a Shânbah bandit. Mussulmans +are not like Christians. The Christians have but one +word, and are brothers. The Mussulmans have a thousand +and ten thousand words, they don't speak the truth, +and they are enemies to one another." The ingenuous<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-307" id="V1-307"></a>[<a href="images/1-307.png">307</a>]</span> +Moor knew little of the history of Europe and America. +I did not disabuse him of his good opinion of us. He +was a Ben Wezeet, and complained that now the <i>Nāther</i> +(‮ناظر‬), or native overseer of the city, and the Kady or +judge, and some of the richest merchants belonged to the +Ben Weleed, and added mournfully, with a sigh, "It was +not so in my father's time. But the world has changed, +and this is the new world."</p> + +<p>In reading the Arabic Testament, I have noticed +several parallel customs or habits between The East and +North Africa. Take this:</p> + +<p>"But Jesus stooped down, and with his finger wrote +upon the ground." (John viii. 6.)</p> + +<p>People of Ghadames are writing daily with their +fingers on the ground. They are also wont, with fancy +ornamental sticks, which they usually carry, to illustrate +their ideas on the sand or dust of the streets, by drawing +figures. In speaking with them on geography, they +sketch shapes of countries. They cast up all their ordinary +accounts by writing figures on the sand. They +have also certain games which they play by the use of +sand. Sand is their paper, their ledger, their boards of +account, their pavement, and their auxiliary in a thousand +things. It is said in the Gospels, that The Saviour +escaped to the mountains<a name="FNa_1-54" id="FNa_1-54"></a><a href="#FoN_1-54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a>, either from the pressure of +the people, or from the persecutions of his enemies. +Persons are accustomed to escape to the mountains in +Barbary, more particularly in Morocco and Algeria; +but also in this country. Our Saviour, besides, gives the +same advice to his disciples: "Let them which are in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-308" id="V1-308"></a>[<a href="images/1-308.png">308</a>]</span> +Judea <i>flee to the mountains</i>." (Luke xxi. 21.) It has +always been difficult to apprehend fugitives in the mountains, +especially in ancient times, when a good police did +not exist. The conqueror has always had great difficulty, +and exposed his conquests to imminent risk, by pursuing +the conquered in mountainous districts. Such are the +instincts and habits of men in all ages. The Desert has, +besides, afforded an asylum to the fugitive and unfortunate, +as well as the persecuted. Our Saviour was wont +to retire to desert places. In this country, the discomfited +defenders of their country's liberties have invariably +escaped to The Sahara. How many times has Abd-el-Kader +escaped to the mountains of Rif, or the solitudes +of The Sahara? But it is unnecessary to pursue this +obvious idea farther, otherwise it also will escape to The +Mountains or The Desert.</p> + +<p>The "five <i>barley</i> loaves," (John vi. 9,) reminds me of +the <i>barley</i> bread of these countries, more frequent than +any other sort of bread. Wheaten bread is rarely eaten +by the lower classes.</p> + +<p>It is needless to cite all the passages of Scripture +where the people in the towns and villages are represented +as bringing out their sick of every kind and +description. (Matt. xiv. 14, 35, 36.) So it is in North +Africa. Whenever an European visits these countries +with any pretensions to medical skill, all the sick of the +place are brought out to him. When I see the sick daily +brought to me—as also when I was in The Mountains—I +cannot help thinking of those affecting pictures +of disease and misery which were providentially exhibited +to demonstrate the divine skill of the Great <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Physisian'">Physician</ins> +of mind and body.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-309" id="V1-309"></a>[<a href="images/1-309.png">309</a>]</span></p> + +<p>Salt is procured in a few hours' journey beyond <i>Sidi +Mâbed</i>, and is considered superior to that procured at +the <i>Salinæ</i> of the coast. This Saharan salt is only +obtained after there has been some rain, the earth being +impregnated with it, and the water washing away the +earthy particles. It is gathered in the dry season.</p> + +<p><i>19th.</i>—Amuse myself with Arabic reading and philological +studies. The mornings continue cool. Administer +now little medicine, for I have but little left. +Ordered an Arab to be bled by the old Moor, who +possesses a good lancet. The big hulking Arab proved +a greater coward than a child. How sickness unnerves +a man, the hardiest and strongest of men! I once took +a passage from Algeria to Marseilles in a French transport +of convalescents. There I saw the brave and brilliant +French troops cry and whine like children under the +influence of fever. When the old Moor had bled the +soldier, he said to me, "Where's the money?" This +shows that, though they rarely think of remunerating the +services of the Christian Tabeeb, they have a perfectly +clear conception of what is due to the labour and skill of +a doctor when the case refers to themselves. Some time +after, I went to the old Moor again, and asked him to +bleed another soldier attacked with fever. He refused +to bleed him, alleging that he must be paid. "He will +die," I said. "Let him die," returned the unfeeling old +blood-letter; "why do they bring soldiers here, we don't +want them?" This afternoon I visited the barrack, where +several Arab soldiers were laid up with the fever, which +they had caught at Emjessem. One was very bad. The +Arabs said to me, "You must give him money to buy +some bread, and a little meat to make some broth." I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-310" id="V1-310"></a>[<a href="images/1-310.png">310</a>]</span> +told them they must go the Rais; it was his business to +look after his troops. It is distressing to witness the +condition of these wretched Arabs. At different times I +have given them a little meat, and bread, and oil; but +now my stock of provisions is getting down, and the +communication between Tripoli and Ghadames is very +precarious. In the evening I saw the <i>Nāther</i>, and said +to him—expecting he would mention it to the Rais, "See +that soldier lying on the stone-bench; he is sick, and has +nothing to eat."</p> + +<p><i>The Nāther.</i>—"Yes, he is ill."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"But he has nothing to eat; can't you get him +something to eat?"</p> + +<p><i>The Nāther,</i>—"Pooh, he must die."</p> + +<p>The other Moors present laughed at my simplicity in +begging something to eat for a fever-worn, emaciated +wretch of a soldier. The matter of fact is, these poor +fellows are detested by the inhabitants, and starved to +death by the Government. The soldier had caught the +fever of Derge, whilst sent there on business, which is a +bad tertian fever, prevalent in some oases of The Sahara.</p> + +<p>Lately, as my turjeman and Said, with several negroes, +were chatting, and saying people would have husbands +and wives in the next world, I asked, in the manner of +the Sadducees, "If a woman had three husbands in this +world, whose wife would she be in the next?" They all +answered, "<i>The wife of the last</i>." As some of the group +of these theologians and diviners of the future state were +negroes, I asked, "What <i>colour</i> will people be in the +next world?" They replied, "<i>All white</i>, and alike; and +not only will their skins be white, but all their clothing +will be <i>white</i>." White, indeed, is the favourite colour of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-311" id="V1-311"></a>[<a href="images/1-311.png">311</a>]</span> +Mussulmans; and a sooty-black Mohammedan negro will +set off his face with a white turban, as our Christian +niggers do their <i>japan</i> with a lily-white neckcloth. But +<i>white</i> is the colour of purity, of religion in North Africa +and The East, as in <i>Biblical</i> +times.—<ins class="grk" title="Greek: peribeblêmenous en himatiois leuchois">περιβεβλημένους ἐν ἱματίοις λευχοῖς</ins>. (Rev. iv. 4.)</p> + +<p><i>20th.</i>—Weather continues fine and cool. Less meat +to be had; nothing decided about the new levy of +money, except that the people will not or cannot pay. +The Sheikh Makouran tells me he is greatly in debt to +Messrs. Silva and Laby, and so are all Ghadamsee merchants. +The money now employed in commerce is +chiefly that of European and other merchants of Tripoli +and Tunis. "We have no money," says Makouran, +"we cannot pay any new levies. If Rais persists, he +must collect our money at the edge of the sword; and +this can't last, for we shall all soon die of hunger." +These continual complaints make me melancholy, and +added to my impatience "to be up and doing," make me +very peevish. O Dio! but such is the lot of man, to +suffer always, either in mind or body. Much annoyed +at my taleb for eating Said's dinner, even before my face. +These Moors, at least some of them, have neither honour +nor conscience. I suppose the taleb is pinching his belly +to pay his portion of the new contribution. To punish +the taleb, I give Said coffee before him, without asking +him to take any. I may observe, the Moors don't like +to see me treat the poor blacks and slaves as their +equals. I frequently give the negroes tea and coffee +before I serve them, to show I despise such distinctions, +although, perhaps, against propriety.</p> + +<p>The taleb began boasting about Soudan, and he has<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-312" id="V1-312"></a>[<a href="images/1-312.png">312</a>]</span> +much reason to boast of it, if we compare what Mohammedans +have there done with what Christians have done +on the Western Coast of Africa. He said, "There's no +<i>gomerick</i> (Custom-house), no oppression, for the people +are Mussulmans." Such were the reasons for their not +being oppressive. It is a great question how far a +country may be civilized, and in how short a time, without +actual conquest? Civilization has progressed in +Central Africa with the spread of Islamism. When it +reaches the point of Mahometan civilization it will stop. +The question with us is, "Whether we shall civilize the +Mohammedans, and so work on Central Africa, or reconquer +their conquests?" There appears very little +chance of civilizing Africa without arms and conquest. +Bornou, Soudan, and its numerous cities, Timbuctoo and +Jinnee, formerly all governed by the <i>Kohlan</i>—‮كحلان‬, +or "blacks," are now governed by strangers, either Arabs +(pure) or Touaricks or Fullans. These are the present +most important kingdoms of the ancient Nigritia, and +include a population of some millions. I continue to +pursue my inquiries respecting the Fullans. All agree +in representing them as originally <i>Arab</i>, but now greatly +mixed, of very dark colour, some being nearly black, +others, and most of them, a dark brown and yellow red, +and some nearly white. The fortunes of the Fullans, +emerging filthily from the dregs and offscouring of The +Sahara, have become as great as the old Romans formerly +in Europe, but they will always have powerful +and vindictive rivals in the Touarghee and pure Arab +and Berber races. The Revd. Mr. Schön has given a +too unfavourable report of the Fullans, in his Notes and +Journal of the Niger Expedition, biassed against them in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-313" id="V1-313"></a>[<a href="images/1-313.png">313</a>]</span> +his Missionary zeal, simply because they are Mahometans. +It is true that the Fullans are great slave-dealers, but so +are nearly all the princes of Africa. The mild and +equitable administration of the kingdoms of Kanou, +Succatou, Kashna, and other immense centres of population, +as carried on by the Fullans, is notorious +throughout The Great Desert. No people of Nigritian +Africa has so profoundly excited my best sympathies +as the Fullanee races<a name="FNa_1-55" id="FNa_1-55"></a><a href="#FoN_1-55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a>.</p> + +<p>The Moors do not fondle and dandle their children on +their knees, as parents are accustomed in Europe; and +when grown up, the children appear as distant from +their parents as strangers. This arises from the absolute +authority assumed by parents over children during +their minority. I have often been angry to see some of +the lower people here teaching the children to call me +<i>Kafer</i> ("infidel") as a sort of religious duty, lest, I +imagine, the children should see at last that there is no +very great difference between a <i>Kafer</i> and a Moslemite.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-314" id="V1-314"></a>[<a href="images/1-314.png">314</a>]</span></p> +<p>Was much amused this afternoon in seeing physic administered +to camels. The camel is made to lie down, +and its knee joints are tied round so that it cannot get +up. One person then seizes hold of the skin and cartilage +of the nose, and that of the under jaw, and wrests +with all his force the mouth wide open, whilst another +seizes hold of the tongue and pulls it over one side of +the mouth; this done, another pours the medicine down +the throat of the animal, and, when the mouth is too full, +they shut the jaws and rub and work the medicine down +its throat. The disease was the falling off of the hair; +and the medicine consisted of the stones of dates split +into pieces and mixed with dried herbs, simple hay or +grass herbs, powdered as small as snuff, the mixture +being made with water. People told me it would fatten +the camel as well as restore its hair. Camels frequently +have the mange, and then they are tarred over. For +unknown incomprehensible diseases, the Moors burn the +camel on the head with hot irons, and call this physic. +Men are treated in the same way, and the Moors are +very fond of these analogies between men and brutes. +What is good for a camel is good for a man, and what +is good for man is good for a camel. Whilst the camel +was being drugged, a Touarick came up and said, +"<i>Salām âleikom</i>" to me. They always use this primitive +mode of salutation. When they swear oaths they also +say, "<i>Allah Akbar</i>," (God is Greatest!) the famous war-cry +of the Saracennic conquerors of olden times. They +are primitive in all their ideas and words; their manners +are equally stiff, and slow or courtly, "stately and dignified;" +they fully understand the doctrine that, "Great +bodies move slow."<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-315" id="V1-315"></a>[<a href="images/1-315.png">315</a>]</span></p> + +<p>A man is said sometimes not to be worth "a pinch of +snuff;" and yet a pinch of snuff will knock a man down, +as it knocked me down this evening. My value then +does not quite reach to a pinch of snuff standard. To +come to explanation: a merchant offered me a pinch of +snuff, and to please him, I took a large pinch, pushing a +portion of it up my nostrils. Immediately I fell dizzy and +sick, and in a short time, vomited violently. The people +stared at me with astonishment, and were terrified out +of their wits, and thought I was about to give up the +ghost. They never saw snuff before produce such terrible +effects. After some time, I got a little better and +returned home. This snuff was that from Souf, and +what people call <i>wâr</i> ("difficult"). I had been warned +of it, and therefore richly paid for my folly. Moreover, +it was a violation of my usual abstinence from this not +very elegant habit. The Souf snuff is extremely powerful; +it is constantly imported here, and for the satisfaction +of snuff-takers and snuff-taking tourists, I am bound +to inform them that they will find snuff much cheaper in +Ghadames than in Tripoli. People call snuff hot and +cold, according to its stimulating, irritating, and tickling +power. It is prohibited to drink wine and spirits +amongst Moslemites, but, nevertheless, many of them do +not fail to intoxicate themselves with everything besides +which comes in their way: they snuff most horribly all +the live-long day. In the season the Arabs drink their +<i>leghma</i>, and the Mahometan Negroes their <i>bouza</i>, the +Soudanic merchants chew their <i>ghour</i>, nuts, and <i>kouda</i>, +as our jolly tars their tobacco, and others munch the +<i>trona</i>. My taleb came to me to see if I were dead. +He had heard such a horrible report in the town. I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-316" id="V1-316"></a>[<a href="images/1-316.png">316</a>]</span> +embraced the opportunity of lecturing him upon the +absurdity of the prohibition from drinking wine, when +he and others intoxicated themselves with snuff. But +man will have <i>his</i> stimulant, and the tee-totaller, who +protests against all stimulants, seeks his in his tea and +coffee. There is no harm in this, and the question only +remains to seek as harmless a stimulant, as consistent +with health as possible. In justice to the Marabout city +of Ghadames, I must mention that some of the more +strict Mohammedans consider snuffing, as well as +smoking, prohibited by their religion, and opium +(‮ععيون‬), and <i>keef</i>, an intoxicating herb, sometimes +called <i>takrounee</i>, ‮تكروني‬, are not smoked in this place. +In general, few of the Moors of this place smoke at all.</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i>—Weather fine, no rain. The merchants begin +to bake biscuits for their journey to Ghat, which looks +like preparation. My friend Abu Beker called and gave +me two letters written to him from Timbuctoo by his +brother, who is established there. Since my return, I +have given one of these letters to the Royal Asiatic +Society, and the other to the British Museum, considering +them a great curiosity, so long as this city shall +remain separated from us Europeans by such impassable +barriers.</p> + +<p>The following is the translation of the letter presented +to the Royal Asiatic Society:—</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">Letter from a Brother in Timbuctoo to a Brother in Ghadames.</span></p> + +<p>"From the poor servant of his Lord, Muhammad ben +Ali ben Talib, to our respected brethren, Abu Bekr and +Muhammad, and Abdallah, and Fatimah, and Ayshah,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-317" id="V1-317"></a>[<a href="images/1-317.png">317</a>]</span> +and our Aunt Aminah; God prosper their conditions, +Amen!</p> + +<p>"After a thousand salutations and respects to you, and +the mercy of God, and his blessings on you, should you +indeed inquire concerning us, we are well, and you, please +God, are so likewise; and we desire no further favour +from God than the sight of your precious countenance; +may God unite us with you before long, for He is the +Hearer (of petitions)! As to this country there is in +it neither buying nor selling. By G—d, O my brother! +this day we are six months in Timbuctoo, and truly in +the whole time I have received but 15 mithcals. There +is not a single farthing (or kirat) in this town, nor commerce +at all, except in salt, &c., (<i>some other commodities, +whose names I cannot discover</i>.) And our minds are in +continual fear here from the scarcity of the times. I am +desirous of going to Arawan, if we can find something to +sell there, when the people of Kiblah (<i>the South</i>) come; +but they are not yet arrived, up to the present moment, +and we do not think they will come. And thou, O my +brother, beware of sending us any thing! as in this +country there is no commerce, (neither buying nor +selling); and whatever has been sent us, we have +received for it neither far nor near. And truly, from the +day in which we entered Timbuctoo, we have given 600 +louats (some measure) to the Touaricks and the Fullans. +But do you pray with us that we may be delivered from +this land; and we have no more news after the letter +which we have written to you. Convey our salutation +to our aunt and to our brothers, many thousand salutations; +and to Muhammad ben al Tayil, and his brother +and his sons, many thousand salutations; and to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-318" id="V1-318"></a>[<a href="images/1-318.png">318</a>]</span> +Muhammad Ibn Ibrahim Taraki, many thousand salutations. +Salute also the Hajj al Beshir, and his +brother the Hajj Yusuff, if he is arrived; and salute +also Hajj Abdallah. The people (caravan) of Touat +have not yet come to us. Our salutation to Al Mustafa +and his brother Abdal Cadir, and tell the Hajj al +Behir, for God's sake not to send us any thing. Of a +truth, we sincerely hope to fulfil your commissions, but +in this land there is neither buying nor selling. By +G—d, neither in Arawan nor in Timbuctoo, have we +seen any one who will buy of you for a mithcal, nor for +a kirat. Tell the Hajj al Beshir, the Sheikh has not yet +arrived. And of all the (——?) I brought to Timbuctoo, +I have not sold a single thing, and I sent them back +to Arawan. Know, that there is no dealing here except +by cowries, and the cowrie is 3,500 to a mithcal. Convey +my salutation to the Hajj Abdal Kerim Ben Aun +Allah, and his brother Abdarrahman, and to their sons; +many thousand salutations, and say to them, For God's +sake take care how you send us any thing, for this land +is a vexation to us. May God not visit you with vexation, +and may he open to us a way of deliverance! And our +salutation to the Hajj Muhammad Sahh, if he is arrived, +and tell him not to forget us in the Fátihah (1st. chap. +of the Koran, used in prayer,) and in the prayer called +Salihah (the Beneficial.) And also to his son and to +his mother, many thousand salutations. And our salutation +to the Hajj Muhammad ben Ali, and his brother, +and their father, many thousand salutations. And salutation +to our cousin (the daughter of our uncle) +Miriam, many thousand salutations, and to our aunt +Sultánah, and to her brothers, and to (some other<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-319" id="V1-319"></a>[<a href="images/1-319.png">319</a>]</span> +female name<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads '('">)</ins> and her sons, many thousand salutations. +And our salutation to our cousins (the children of our +uncle) and say to them, For God's sake do not forget +us in the Fátihah and the prayer Salihah, that God may +deliver us from this land; and the people ("or +caravan") of Touat are not yet come to us. O my +brethren! we anxiously and most earnestly do desire +news of you; the Lord give us news of your welfare +before long. And do thou, O my brother! send us some +cinnamon and some black pepper, and some grains of +‮جلاو‬. And when thou writest, give us all the news, and +take care not to leave your letter unclosed, for the +people here read it, and be sure to seal it. Salute the +inhabitants of our street, all of them, without exception, +each one by name.</p> + +<p>"And so farewell: at the date of Rajab the 25th, in +the year 1246; and again farewell, from this poor +(servant of God,) and many thousand salutations, as +also from Ibrahim and from the Hajj al Mansur and +the Hajj al Mansur's son, who is still with him. +Farewell.</p> + +<p>"(Postscript below.)—Convey our salutation to Hajj +Hamad, and tell him Muhammad ben Canab is doing +well, and he is in Arawan; and in like manner salute +from us his brother Ali.</p> + +<p>"(2nd Postscript at the side.)—Salutation also to our +uncle, and say to him, that among the people of the +Sheikh (‮اهل الشيخ‬) we obtain nothing, except what the +Lord has brought us (a proverbial expression of the +Moors, signifying nothing at all.) So farewell!</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">Address.</span></p> + +<p>"To the hand of our esteemed brethren Abu Bekr,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-320" id="V1-320"></a>[<a href="images/1-320.png">320</a>]</span> +and Muhammad and Abdullah ben Ali Ibn Talib; may +God amend their condition, amen!</p> + +<p>"(With Solomon's seal, and a rude commencement of +another; the name of Ben Talib, and the mystical words +‮طه‬ and ‮بسم‬ the first of which is prefixed to the xxth +chapter of the Koran, and the other probably intended +for ‮طسم‬, heading the xxvith, and xxviiith; or for ‮يس‬ +xxxvi.)"</p> + +<p>Obs.—This letter is written within and without, +and on every fold of it. The advice to seal the letter +to prevent it from being "Grahamized" is curious. I +have seen a hundred letters in The Desert <i>un</i>sealed, and +it is only in case of suspicion, that the Saharan merchants +seal their letters. Such is their confidence in +each other's honour and good faith, that it is an insult +to seal a letter when put into the hands of a friend. It +would appear, from this letter, that some twenty years +ago the commerce of Timbuctoo was in the most languishing +deplorable state; but as far as I can judge, +from the present operations of the merchants in +Ghadames, the trade of Timbuctoo has in a measure +revived. The letter itself is a most admirable specimen +of the epistolary style of the Saharan Moors, and in this +respect alone is of considerable value.</p> + +<p>When walking out this morning, an impudent young +dog came running after me and shouted, "There is no +God but God, and Mahomet is the Prophet of God;" +whilst another cried out, "You Kafer!" Judging it +necessary to put a stop to this, I gave each little imp for +his pains a hard rap of the head with my fly-flapper, +which greatly surprised them, and sent them off yelping. +Some of the boys, however, are very friendly, and come<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-321" id="V1-321"></a>[<a href="images/1-321.png">321</a>]</span> +running after me and take hold of my hand. A day or +two afterwards these young rascals came running after +me again in the same way; but they were chased by an +adult Moor, who gave them a good thrashing.</p> + +<p><i>22nd.</i>—Weather fine. Nothing new. Bought Said a +new pair of Morocco shoes, and made him happy for a +day or two. He begins to sulk about going amongst the +Touaricks. To my great joy, the <i>Shantah</i> from Tripoli +has arrived, bringing letters from Colonel Warrington, +and Mr. Francovich, which latter has remitted to me 125 +mahboubs. Two Touaricks have also arrived from +Touat. The road is open. Rain has fallen in many +places of The Desert in copious showers, which has +buoyed up the hopes of the camel-graziers. Rumours of +fighting between the Shânbah and Touaricks are prevalent.</p> + +<p>The Tibboo left during the night for Ghat—<span class="smcap">alone!</span> +riding on a single camel. His conduct has astonished +everybody. Some say "he's mad," and some say "he's +a bandit." He had with him a small quantity of light +goods, and about 300 dollars in cash. I asked the Rais +about him. He observed, "That Tibboo has no wit. +Many people die on the routes, the camels running away +whilst they sleep. What can he do alone!" I asked +the people, all of whom replied, "The Tibboo is a wonderful +fellow!" One said, "Ah, that's a man, Yâkob. +No Christian like the Tibboo." But another said, +"Without doubt he's a cut-throat, that is the reason he +goes alone. Even the Touaricks are afraid of him; +and when they brought him here he quarrelled with +them several times. Besides, a few days ago he was +going to knock down the toll-taker at the gate." After<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-322" id="V1-322"></a>[<a href="images/1-322.png">322</a>]</span> +this display of personal daring, I shall never have a +contemptible idea of a Negro. The free, independent, +and enlightened gentleman slave-driver of Yankee Land, +armed with that symbol of order and good government, +the bowie-knife! would find his match in this his brother +Tibboo slave-driver. The Tibboo has done what no man +of this city would have dared to do, in undertaking a +journey of some twenty days over The Desert alone. +What is very extraordinary, he never travelled the route +but once before, that is, when he came here. They say +he will arrive at Ghat in twelve days. He took the +precaution of purchasing a good pair of horse-pistols +before he left. I may add, he arrived safe and sound +at Ghat.</p> + +<p><i>23rd.</i>—This morning exceedingly cold. In going out, +a man said to me, "Where are you going this cold +morning?" People were all shivering, or wrapped up in +their burnouses. Said is attacked with ophthalmia. Received +a visit from an old Arab doctor. He says cattle +are attacked with the plague, as well as men. He wrote +me a receipt for the cure of <i>night</i>-blindness, which would +cure it in one night. He says, in the neighbouring +desert, towards the west, there is a small oasis of Arabs, +who are called <i>El-Hawamad</i>—‮الحومد‬—who are always +afflicted by night-blindness, which singular affection is +called by them <i>Juhur</i> (‮جُهُر‬). Mr. Jackson, in his Morocco, +calls this strange disease <i>butelleese</i>. The Arabs +of <i>El-Hawamad</i> see perfectly well in the day-time. +But I must mention, that I received an application for +medicine from a person who is affected with the same +strange kind of malady. The European physicians call +this disease <i>Nyctalopia</i> (<ins class="grk" title="Greek: Nyktalôpia">Νυκταλωπια</ins>). I recently myself<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-323" id="V1-323"></a>[<a href="images/1-323.png">323</a>]</span> +met with a case in London. But what is equally extraordinary, +Captain Lyon (I think) mentions a case +which he met with in The Desert, of a person who could +see in the night-time but not in the day-time—a human +owl. We conversed about other diseases in Ghadames. +The principal, as before-mentioned, are ophthalmia and +diarrhœa. There are two lepers; a few dropsical +people; and, occasionally, small-pox and syphilitic diseases. +There are, besides, various cutaneous affections. +Dogs are known to go mad amongst the Arabs, but not +very often. When mad, they are called <i>makloub</i>. The +remedy is, when they bite people, the hair of the mad +dog himself, rubbing it over the part bitten. Mussulmans +are fond of this antagonistic idea, of the bane and +the antidote being one and the same thing, for they preserve +the dead scorpions to be applied to the sting of +the living ones, and they aver it to be a certain cure. +Quackery is the native growth of the ingenious as well +as the whimsical and hypochondriacal ideas of men. In +dropsy the native doctors cut the body to let out the +water, as we do.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>Wrote letters to Mr. Alsager, Colonel Warrington, +and others. People grumbling about their letters being +too high charged. Formerly letters went free to Tripoli. +The Turkish post-office and policy never fail to make +things worse. Treating some Moors with coffee and +loaf-sugar, one asked me if there were blood in sugar, for +so he had heard from some Europeans in Tripoli. I told +him in loaf sugar. "What, the blood of pigs?" one +cried. "How do I know?" I rejoined; "if the refiner +has no bullock's blood, why not use that of pigs?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-324" id="V1-324"></a>[<a href="images/1-324.png">324</a>]</span> +This frightened them all out of their senses. They will +not eat loaf-sugar again in a hurry. A most ludicrous +anecdote of the old Bashaw of Tripoli here occurs to me. +Old Yousef one day sent for Colonel Warrington, with a +message that the Consul's presence was very particularly +required. The Consul, putting on his best Consular +uniform, and taking with him his Vice-Consul, his Chancellor, +and his Dragoman, immediately waited upon His +Highness. The Consul found His Highness sitting in +full Divan, surrounded with all his high functionaries. +Approaching the Bashaw, the Consul was begged to take +a seat. His Highness then opened business, and, drawing +a very long and solemn face, requested to know, +"If the Christians were carrying away all the bones from +the country?" assuring the Consul that such he heard +was the case from his people, adding, that even the +graveyards were ransacked for bones. The Consul, +nothing blinking, or disquieted, congratulated His Highness +upon bringing such an important subject before +his notice, and observed, "It is very improper for the +Christians to be ransacking the tombs for old bones to +ship off for Europe." "Improper!" exclaimed the Bashaw, +"why the man who does so ought to be beheaded!" +"Yes, yes," replied the Consul, coaxingly, "he ought, +your Highness; I quite agree with you." The Bashaw +then got a little more calm, and begged of the Consul, +as a favour, to tell him what the Christians did with all +these old bones. The Consul, now assuming a magnificent +air, deigned to reply, "Now, your Highness, you +must be cool. You drink coffee?" "Yes." "You put +sugar in it?" "Yes" (impatiently). "You use white +sugar?" "Yes, yes," said the Bashaw, half amazed,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-325" id="V1-325"></a>[<a href="images/1-325.png">325</a>]</span> +half trembling, wondering what would come next. +"Then," cried the Consul triumphantly, "I beg most +submissively to inform your Highness, hoping that your +Highness will not be angry, but thank me for the information, +that the old bones are used to make white sugar +with." Hereupon was an awful explosion of <i>Allahs!</i>—beginning +with His Highness the Bashaw, and going +round the whole assembled Divan, in such serious and +perplexed conclave now met. Then followed <i>harams!</i>—in +the midst of which Colonel Warrington graciously and +elegantly backed himself out of the Divan, smiling and +bowing, bowing and smiling, to the utter horror of all +present. Next day His Highness made a proclamation +<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'forbiding'">forbidding</ins> any of his subjects from exporting old bones +on pain of death. On his part, the Consul issued a +notice calling upon all British subjects not to be such +barbarians as to violate the tombs of pious Mussulmans, +at the same time threatening them with the full +weight of the Consular displeasure. I am assured that +Yousef Bashaw never ate white sugar afterwards.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>The liberties which Colonel Warrington was wont to +take with old Yousef Bashaw, of the Caramanly dynasty, +could not now be, in these days of Ottoman politeness, +at all tolerated. For a long series of years, and especially +during the French war, the Colonel was the virtual +Bashaw of Tripoli. I shall only give another of a thousand +incidents in which the British Consul showed himself +the master, and the Bashaw the slave, instead of the +Sovereign of his own country. One day the Bashaw had +done something to offend the Consul. Colonel Warrington, +hearing of it whilst riding out, immediately rides off<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-326" id="V1-326"></a>[<a href="images/1-326.png">326</a>]</span> +to the Castle, and rushes, whip in hand, into the presence +of the Bashaw, producing consternation through the +whole Court. An Italian, having at the time an audience +with His Highness, demanded, "<i>Che cosa vuole Signore +Consule?</i>" seeing the Consul frustrated in his rage for +want of an interpreter. "<i>Tell him</i> (the Bashaw) <i>he's a +rascal!</i>" roared the Consul, almost shaking his whip over +the head of His Highness. But the Italian was just as +far off, not knowing English, and fortunately could not +interpret this elegant compliment. The very next day, +the Consul and the Bashaw dined together at the British +Garden, the Colonel slapping the old gentleman over his +shoulder, and drinking wine with him, like two jolly +chums. In this way, Colonel Warrington managed to be, +what he was called in Malta, "<i>Bashaw of Tripoli</i>." Now +that Colonel Warrington, during the time these pages +have been going through the press, has left us for another +and a better world, we may for a moment compare his +Consular system with that which was pursued by the late +Mr. Hay, Consul-General of Morocco. The difference is +striking, if not remarkable. Colonel Warrington boasted +of being able to do anything and everything in Tripoli; +Mr. Hay boasted of being able to do nothing in Morocco. +The former had the Bashaw under his thumb, or hooked +by the nose; the latter stood at an awful distance from +the Shereefian Presence. Colonel Warrington underrated +the difficulties and dangers of travelling in Tripoli and +Central Africa, making the route from Tripoli to Bornou +as safe as the road from London to Paris; Mr. Hay, +exaggerating every obstacle, represented it as unsafe to +walk in the environs of Tangier, under its very walls, and +even boasted of himself being shot at in the interior of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-327" id="V1-327"></a>[<a href="images/1-327.png">327</a>]</span> +Morocco, on a Government mission, and whilst attended +by an escort of the Emperor's troops. With Colonel +Warrington, a mission of science or philanthropy had a +real chance of success; with Mr. Hay, no mission could +possibly succeed—failure was certain. And so I might +continue the opposite parallels. But in justice to these +late functionaries and their friends, I must observe, that +both were zealous servants of Government and their +country. They exerted themselves diligently and conscientiously +to protect and advance the interests of their +countrymen, who had relations with Tripoli or Morocco, +according to their peculiar temperaments and circumstances. +No doubt they gave Government at home an +immense deal of unnecessary trouble, and sometimes even +annoyance; but so long as each public functionary abroad +thinks the affairs of his own particular post of more +importance than those of anybody else, this inconvenience +will always happen, in a lesser or greater degree.</p> + +<p>Said furnishes me with a continual anti-slavery text +against the slave-trade. Everybody asks me if Said is a +slave. I reply, "Slavery is a great sin amongst the +English. We cannot have slaves, or make slaves of our +fellow-creatures." Then follow discussions, in which I +damnify the traffick in human beings as much as possible.</p> + +<p>Today witnessed a good specimen of Arab Desert +freedom. I was conversing quietly with the Governor, +seated beside him on his ottoman, a privilege granted +only to me, the Nather (<i>native</i> governor) and the Kady, +when rushed into the apartment a Souafee Arab, exclaiming +to the Rais, "How are you?" and seizing hold +of his hands, knocked his fly-flap down on the floor. +His Excellency was shocked at this rudeness, and I my<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-328" id="V1-328"></a>[<a href="images/1-328.png">328</a>]</span>self +was a little startled. The conversation which followed, +if such it may be called, is characteristic of the +bold Arab, and the haughty Turk.</p> + +<p><i>The Souafee.</i>—"The Shânbah are coming to Ghadames."</p> + +<p><i>The Governor.</i>—"I don't know; God knows."</p> + +<p><i>The Souafee.</i>—"My brothers write to me and tell +me so."</p> + +<p><i>The Governor.</i>—"I don't know."</p> + +<p><i>The Souafee.</i>—"Give me money, and I'll go and look +after them."</p> + +<p><i>The Governor.</i>—"I have no money."</p> + +<p><i>The Souafee.</i>—"Make haste, give me money."</p> + +<p><i>The Governor.</i>—"Have none."</p> + +<p><i>The Souafee.</i>—"Where's the money?"</p> + +<p><i>The Governor.</i>—"Go to the Ghadamseeah."</p> + +<p><i>The Souafee.</i>—"They tell me you have all their +money."</p> + +<p><i>The Governor.</i>—"Go to them."</p> + +<p><i>The Souafee.</i>—"I'm going, <i>Bislamah</i> (good bye.)"</p> + +<p><i>The Governor.</i>—"Bislamah."</p> + +<p>As the Souafee left the threshold of the apartment, his +Excellency turned to me, and raising his right hand underneath +his chin, drew its back jerkingly forwards, making +the sign of the well-known expression of contempt in +North Africa. He then said to me:—"See what a life I +lead, what insults I am obliged to put up with! what +beasts are these Arabs!" The Souafah are, indeed, the +type of the genuine Desert Arab. They have no foreign +master, and manage all their affairs by their own Sheikhs +and Kadys. The immense waste of sand lying between +Ghadames and Southern Tunis and Algeria, is their abso<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-329" id="V1-329"></a>[<a href="images/1-329.png">329</a>]</span>lute +domain, in the arid and thirsty bosom of which are +planted, as marvels of nature, their oases of palms. The +Shânbah bandits, who plunder every body, and brave +heaven and earth, nevertheless dare not lay a finger on +them. I cannot better represent the feelings of the Souf +Arab, nor the "wild and burning range" of his country, +than by quoting the lines of Eliza Cook:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Through the desert, through the desert, where the Arab takes his course,</span> +<span class="i0">With none to bear him company, except his gallant horse;</span> +<span class="i0">Where none can question will or right, where landmarks ne'er impede,</span> +<span class="i0">But all is wide and limitless to rider and to steed.</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">No purling streamlet murmurs there, no chequer'd shadows fall;</span> +<span class="i0">'Tis torrid, waste and desolate, but free to each and all.</span> +<span class="i0">Through the desert, through the desert! Oh, the Arab would no change,</span> +<span class="i0">For purple robes or olive-trees, his wild and burning range."</span> +</div></div> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-53" id="FoN_1-53"></a><a href="#FNa_1-53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> It is now the fashion in French writers to represent the Arabic +‮غ‬ by the Roman R, as <i>R</i>'dames for <i>Gh</i>adames.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-54" id="FoN_1-54"></a><a href="#FNa_1-54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> ‮هرب الي الجبل‬</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-55" id="FoN_1-55"></a><a href="#FNa_1-55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> <i>Fullans.</i>—Mungo Park says: "The Foulahs are chiefly of a +tawny complexion, with silky hair, and pleasing features.<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: added missing quotation mark">"</ins>—M. +D'Avezac says: "In the midst of the Negro races, there stands out +a <i>métive</i> (<i>mezzo-termino</i>?) population, of tawny or copper colour, +prominent nose, small mouth, and oval face, which ranks itself +amongst the white races, and asserts itself to be descended from +Arab fathers, and Tawrode(?) mothers. Their crisped hair, and +even woolly though long, justifies their classification among the +<i>oulotric</i> (woolly-haired) populations; but neither the traits of their +features, nor the colour of their skin, allow them to be confounded +with Negroes, however great the fusion of the two types may be." +Major Rennell calls them the "Leucœthiopes of Ptolemy and +Pliny." Mr. D'Eichthal thinks them to be of <i>Malay</i> origin, on +account of their language; but Dr. Pritchard considers them to be +a genuine African race.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-330" id="V1-330"></a>[<a href="images/1-330.png">330</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<h3>PREPARATIONS FOR GOING TO SOUDAN.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>His Excellency the Rais questions me on my rumoured Journey to +Soudan.—The Devil has in safe keeping all who are not Mahometans.—I +am wearing to a Skeleton.—A Caravan of Women.—Predestination.—The +Shânbah begin their Foray.—The Gardens +and their Products.—Varieties of the Date-Palm.—Locusts.—Brigands +spare the Property of the Marabout Merchants of +Ghadames.—Agricultural Implements in The Desert.—Violent +capture of a Souf Caravan by the Governor.—Uses of the +Date-Palm.—The Touarghee Bandit's opinion as to Killing +Christians.—Combat between an Ant and a Fly.—Loose Phraseology +in The Mediterranean.—Harsh Hospitality of the Souafah, +and Usurpation over their Oases by the French.—Money disappearing +from Ghadames.—The Affair of Messrs. Silva and +Levi, and their connexion with Ghadamsee Slave-Dealers.—Visit, +with his Excellency the Governor, the Ruins of <i>Kesar-el-Ensara</i> +"the Castle of the Christians."—Antiquity of Ghadames, +and Account of it by Leo Africanus.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> 23rd, 24th, and 25th, employed in writing letters. +On one of these days the Rais called me to him and +asked, "Whether I really intended to go to Soudan, as +the people had reported to him?" I told him Yes, and +that I was already making preparations. His Excellency +affected great amazement, and looked exceedingly mysterious, +but did not know what to reply. At last he +observed, "I must write to Ahmed Effendi of The +Mountains, and if he says you may go, all well, if not, +you must not go." I then asked the Rais, what I was +to do in Ghadames? His Excellency said anxiously, +"Stay with me to keep me company. I am surrounded<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-331" id="V1-331"></a>[<a href="images/1-331.png">331</a>]</span> +with barbarians. I am weary of my life here." As the +Rais spoke what I knew to be the truth, I pitied him +and said nothing, although I could not understand this +asking of permission from Ahmed Effendi, whom I knew +to be a queer customer to deal with. However, I interpreted +the sense of Colonel Warrington's letter to Rais, +viz., "If I had friends I might venture further into the +interior, if not, stay where I was until I made friends." +I believe the sympathy of the Rais <i>sincere</i>, which is a +great deal for a Turk, or even any body else in this +insincere and lying world. He is a timid man, and is +afraid the Touaricks will make an end of me. What +the Rais says is reasonable enough: "Bring me a Ghadamsee, +or a respectable Arab merchant whom I know, +and who will take you with him, and be answerable for +your head (safety), and will protect you equally with +himself, then I have no fears for your safety." I took +my friend Zaleâ to the Rais, who is a native of Seenawan, +and much respected by all. The camels of the giant +left to-day for Ghat, his giantship himself waits to be +conducteur of our caravan.</p> + +<p>In replying to an observation about another increase +of taxes of which the people bitterly complained, I said, +"The Mahometan princes are now the greatest oppressors +of the people, whilst the Christian kings are more tolerant, +and people enjoyed more security under our Governments." +My taleb replied, "Yes, it is the truth, Yâkob, +and this is the reason. The Devil knows that all the +Christians, and Jews, and black <i>kafers</i>, belong to him. +So he troubles them not, they are his safe property and +sure possession. But he is always stirring up amongst +us Mussulmans evil passions, and leading our sovereigns<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-332" id="V1-332"></a>[<a href="images/1-332.png">332</a>]</span> +to oppress the people, and one Mussulman to oppress +another." Such is the reasoning of a bigoted Moslemite, +and with him and others it has considerable force. Indeed, +a Christian stands a very poor chance with these +subtle orthodox doctors.</p> + +<p><i>26th.</i>—The mornings grow colder and colder. I feel +the change sensitively, more so than the natives; am +exceedingly chilly. I perceive the hot weather has dried +up or torn off the flesh from my bones, and my feet are +very skinny. Attribute this a good deal to the water. +Rais is almost worn to a skeleton. This morning he +called his servants to attest, how stout he was when he +first came here. But as the heat is gone, I shall not now +drink so much water. The more malicious, in revenge +for Turkish oppression here, hope and pray the Rais will +die of the climate, and every Turk who succeeds him.</p> + +<p>To-day the Touarick <i>women</i> leave for Ghat. No men +go with them, only some of their little sons. About ten +women form this caravan. They have camels to carry +their water, and ride on occasionally when they are +fatigued. I asked a Ghadamsee whether these women +were not afraid to go by themselves, particularly now +as banditti are reported to be in the routes. He replied, +"These Touarick women are a host of witches and she-devils. +No men will dare to touch them." This ghafalah +of women is a perfectly new idea to me. Some of +the women are quite young and pretty, and delicate, +and don't appear as if they could bear twenty days' desert-travelling. +One said to me, "If you will go with us women, +we will take better care of you than the men can do."</p> + +<p><i>27th.</i>—Occupied in writing. Rais paid me a visit in +the afternoon. Gave one of the slaves who came with<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-333" id="V1-333"></a>[<a href="images/1-333.png">333</a>]</span> +him a pill-box, which highly delighted the boy. I found +when I visited Rais again, that his Excellency himself +had become so enamoured with the pill-box, as to +purchase it from his slave. Said continues bad with +ophthalmia. The disease seems to attack mostly people +of this country, and not strangers. At any rate it would +seem that we require to be acclimated to catch these +diseases, as well as acclimated to resist them. Rais took +it into his head to preach to me about the decrees of +Heaven. "You and I," said his Excellency, "were great +fools to come to this country; I to leave Constantinople, +you to leave London. But it was the decree of God that +we should come to this horrible country." The decrees of +Heaven, or the acknowledgment of such, are the <i>bonâ +fide</i> religion of Ghadames. "What do the people eat?" +I said to a man. He replied, "What is decreed!" +Another interposed, "Don't be afraid of the Touaricks; +you will not die before the time which is decreed by +Heaven for you to die." Such is consolation in man's +misery. Are we to believe this? or why not believe it?</p> + +<p><i>28th</i>, <i>29th</i>, and <i>30th.</i>—Employed in preparing routes +of The Desert. This evening the Governor received a +letter from his spies in Souf, which reports that the +Shânbah had left their country four days before they +wrote, which is now fifteen days. It is not known +whether the banditti have taken the route to Ghat or +Ghadames. His Excellency has taken precautionary +measures, and sent soldiers to look out in the routes near +our city. He has also sent to bring back a merchant +who started yesterday to Touat, and another to Derge. +The freebooters are 100 horse, and 400 camels strong. +The Giant Touarick taking the alarm, and mounting his<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-334" id="V1-334"></a>[<a href="images/1-334.png">334</a>]</span> +strongest and fleetest Maharee, has gone off to protect +his family and country. He was one of the expedition +last year, and slew a dozen Shânbah with his own hand. +In the meanwhile <i>caravaning</i> to all quarters is to be +stopped.</p> + +<p><i>31st.</i>—Purchased an outfit for Said. Afterwards he +would put them on, and walked all over the town, and +left me to cook the dinner myself. I said nothing to +him, humouring his vanity. No people are so fond of +new and fine clothes as Negroes.</p> + +<p><i>1st November.</i>—A strong wind blowing from the +south-east, or nearly east. Not very cold, clouds thick +and dark, and no sun. The music of the wind in the +date-palms is very agreeable, and tunes my soul to a +quiet sadness. The Ghadamsee merchant who was overtaken +on his road to Tourat, refuses to come back, and +says he trusts in God against the Shânbah. Some Souf +Arabs have come in to-day, giving out that the French +wish to assume the sovereignty over their country. The +able-bodied men of the united oases are calculated at +2,000.</p> + +<p>Visited the gardens with my taleb as <i>cicerone</i>. Was +much gratified with the rural ramble, although there is +nothing remarkable to be seen. The three principal +productions are dates, of which there is a great variety, +some thirty or forty different sorts<a name="FNa_1-56" id="FNa_1-56"></a><a href="#FoN_1-56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a>; barley and <i>ghusub</i><a name="FNa_1-57" id="FNa_1-57"></a><a href="#FoN_1-57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-335" id="V1-335"></a>[<a href="images/1-335.png">335</a>]</span> +The ghusub is grown in the Autumn and the barley in +the Spring; in this way two crops of corn are reaped in +the year. A little wheat is now and then grown, but +does not thrive. The native date is the <i>madghou</i> (‮مدغو‬) +which is also common in Seenawan and Derge. It is +small and filbert-shaped, of a black colour, very pleasant +when fresh, but when dry very indifferent. I saw no +black dates in any other parts of The Sahara. The +gardens furnish besides a few vegetables and fruits, such +as pomegranates, apricots, peaches, almonds, olives, +melons, pumpkins, tomatas, onions, and peppers, a few +grape-trees and fig-trees in the choicest gardens, but all +in small quantities. There is scarcely a flower or fancy +tree but the <i>tout</i>. No person of my acquaintance, except +my turjeman, showed much fancy for botany. He had +brought an aloe from Tripoli, and planted it in his +garden. It is the only one. He has another tree or +two besides, which nobody else has. The merchants +have brought the varieties of the date-palm from the +different oases of The Sahara. Nearly every householder +has a garden, and some several. Sometimes a date +plantation is divided between two or three families, each +cultivating and gathering the fruits of his pet choice +palm. Herbage is grown in the gardens for fattening +the sheep. Pounded date-stones both fatten sheep and +camels. In summer the gardens are intolerable, but in +winter deliriously pleasant. Sheikh Makouran is the +largest landed-proprietor. He has seventeen gardens; +"nearly half the country," as a person observed. So +Europe is not the only place in the world where there is +such an unequal division of the land. The gardens are +small, and the whole number is some two hundred and odd,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-336" id="V1-336"></a>[<a href="images/1-336.png">336</a>]</span> +only the half of which are regularly watered from the Great +Spring. As the people can never depend upon rain, the +whole culture is conducted on irrigation. The Ghadamsee +garden-gate, of all the absurdities of inconvenience is the +greatest I ever met with. It is scarcely large enough for +a small sheep to enter. Every person entering a garden +must not only stoop but crawl through the gate. It is +fortunate there are no lusty people here, all being bony +and wiry like the Arabs. Not being dependant on rain, +the gardens only suffer from the locusts, and now and +then a blighting wind. In the Spring of this year these +insect marauders passed over the oasis and made a +pillage of the date blossoms for thirty days, besides doing +much damage to the barley. I encountered a flight of +the same horde, which emerged from The Desert and +then took to sea, and were scattered over to Malta and +Sicily by the wind, when I was travelling from Tunis to +the isle of Jerbah late in the Spring. From Ghadames +they proceeded <i>en masse</i> to Tripoli and Ghabs, inflicting +great damage. When they passed near the gardens of +Ghabs, the people climbed up the fruit-trees and made a +great noise, screaming and shouting, which kept them +from settling in masses on the fruit-trees and vegetables. +They also kindled a fire and tried to smoke them away. +Many of those which did settle were gathered, cooked, +and eaten with great <i>gusto</i> by the people. I met them +myself on the immense plains of Solyman; they were +the first flight of locusts I ever saw. I had seen locusts +on the hills near Mogador, where they are bred in great +numbers. Millions of small green things were just +starting into being. The locust is a somewhat disproportioned +insect, the wings are too fine for the bulk and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-337" id="V1-337"></a>[<a href="images/1-337.png">337</a>]</span> +weight of the body, which explains why they are unable +to struggle against the wind; as it is said in the Scriptures, +"and when it was morning the east wind brought +the locusts<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads ':'">.</ins>" (Exod. x. 13.) They do not fly high, and +when they settle on the ground they roll over very +clumsily. A flight at a distance looks like falling flakes +of snow in a snow-storm. They are mostly of a reddish +colour, with lead-coloured bodies, and some of a glaring +yellow. The yellow ones are said to be the males, and +are not so good eating as the others. The locust tastes +very much like a dry shrimp when roasted. They are +from an inch and a half to two and a half long. The +head is large and square, and very formidable. Hence +the Scripture allusion: "and on their heads were as it +were crowns like gold, and their faces were as the faces +of men." (Rev. ix. 7.) But the prophecy gives them a +superadded power which they do not possess, "and +unto them was given power as the scorpions of the earth +have power;" (v. 3.) for when you catch the locust +it makes little resistance and does not bite. Few of +these were eating, and most of them were either flying +or lay motionless basking in the sun, grouped in hundreds +round tufts of long coarse grass. My Moorish +fellow-travellers didn't like their appearance. They said +the locusts are bad things, and came from the hot +country to devour their harvest. It was indeed, an +unpleasant sight, this horde of insect marauders, and +soon lost the charm of novelty. But the world is made +up of the elements of destruction and reproduction. +Such is the eternal order of Providence, and we must +bear the evil and the good. I do not think that they +come far south or from the inner Desert, for they could<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-338" id="V1-338"></a>[<a href="images/1-338.png">338</a>]</span> +not be bred in regions of desolation, where there is no +green thing. Yet these flights were from the south of +Ghadames, and at any rate they are bred in the Saharan +districts, from the banks of the Nile to the shores of the +Atlantic. The world is full of impostors. One of these +went once upon a time to Morocco, and endeavoured +to persuade the people he could destroy all the locusts +by some chemical process. I believe he was a French +adventurer.</p> + +<p><i>2nd.</i>—Occupied in taking notes of routes. The whole +day overcast but no rain. Rais alternately laughs and +admires the Ghadamsee people. He was endeavouring +to prove to me what profound respect the bandits of The +Desert entertain for these Marabout people, and said, +"If a camel of the Ghadamseeah falls down in The +Desert and dies, and no person present has a camel to +lend them, they leave the goods or the load of the +camel on the high road until they fetch one. Should a +bandit pass by in the meanwhile and see the goods, and +recognize them to belong to an inhabitant of Ghadames, +he does not even touch them, but passes by and calls +for the blessing of Heaven upon the Holy City of The +Desert." This, one would say, is too good to be true, at +the same time, I have no doubt the banditti of The +Desert have a species of religious respect for these pacific-minded, +unresisting merchants. I took an opportunity of +asking Rais about the use and value of his charms. His +Excellency replied, "They are to protect me when exposed +to robbers like the Shânbah, or to other evils. +These charms will then render me great assistance." I +I have already said Rais is as big a ninny in these +superstitious matters as any of his Maraboutish subjects.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-339" id="V1-339"></a>[<a href="images/1-339.png">339</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>3rd.</i>—Am still in great doubt as to the route I shall +take for the interior. Every route has its separate advantages, +and separate dangers. In this perplexity what +can I do but wait the turn of events? . . . . . Another +overcast morning, as dull and foggy as Old England's +November. A perfect Thames-London fog. I was +accustomed to think that in the bright sky of an African +desert such a mass of cloud and haziness was impossible. +Still, though gloomy and drear, there is more boldness +and definiteness of outline than in England. After a +person has been living long under the bright skies of the +Mediterranean, he may mistake a clear winter's day on +Blackheath, as I have done, for a moonlight, owing to +the want of those sharp angles by which nature draws +her landscapes in Southern Europe. To-day the face of +the heavens has cast its shadows upon the countenance +of the population, for all is dull in business. Every one +is awaiting the result of the skirmishes between the +Touaricks and the Shânbah.</p> + +<p><i>4th.</i>—A fine morning, and not very cold. No patients, +everybody apparently in health. My old friend +Berka, the liberated slave, is now occupied in turning or +digging, or hoeing up a whole garden of good size, about +two days and a half's labour, for which he will receive +one Tunisian piastre! (Seven pence English money.) +This is free labour. I am sure the slave labour, the +principal here, cannot be cheaper. The implements of +agriculture are few and simple in The Desert. Friend +Berka had but a small hoe, which is well described by +Caillié, who saw it used near Jinnee, and indeed it seems +to be used throughout Central Africa. This hoe is about +a foot long, and eight inches broad; the handle, which is<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-340" id="V1-340"></a>[<a href="images/1-340.png">340</a>]</span> +some sixteen inches in length, slants very much. With +this hoe they turn up the earth instead of the plough, +and prepare and open and shut the squares of irrigated +fields. For reaping they make use of a small sickle without +teeth. The caravans usually have a supply of +these sickles for cutting up Desert provender for the +camels. The use of the hoe requires constant stooping +to the ground and is consequently laborious, but the +Saharan fields are very limited, and are soon hoed up. +The smallness of space is compensated by a redundant +fertility, and double and even treble crops in the +course of the year. Passing by a group of gossipping +slaves to-day, one came running up to me and +said, "Buy me, buy me, and I will go with you to Ghat. +I shall only cost you 100 mahboubs." This is humiliating +enough, but those who offer their services for sale, +like hundreds in the metropolis of London, to write up a +bad cause and write down a good one, or to—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2half">"Make the worse appear</span> +<span class="ihalf">The better reason—"</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"With words cloth'd in reason's garb—"</span> +</div></div> + +<p>certainly perform a greater act of degradation than these +poor debased bondsmen.</p> + +<p>A few evenings ago intelligence arrived that a Souf +caravan of eight camels and five persons were seen about +a day and a half from this city, proceeding in the route +of Ghat. This gave rise to suspicions that the news +about the Shânbah and Touaricks was a hoax of the +Souafah, in order to frighten the people of Ghadames, +and allow them (the Souafah) to get first to the market +of Ghat, and buy slaves cheaper. So reason the mer<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-341" id="V1-341"></a>[<a href="images/1-341.png">341</a>]</span>chants +with the usual jealousy of such people. Rais, +on receipt of the above, summoned his Divan, and it was +debated, "Whether the Souafah should not be brought in +here by force?" The question was decided in the affirmative, +and late at night, fourteen Arab soldiers, two +Arabs of Seenawan, intimately acquainted with the +routes, and an official of the Rais, went off to seize the +caravan. This bold measure may bring us unpleasant +consequences. First of all, the Governor has no right to +seize a caravan in a district where the Sultan, his master, +has no authority, decidedly neutral ground, especially a +caravan of strangers. Then the Souafah, in revenge, +may attack the caravans of Ghadames. Again, it is a +question whether the caravan will come in without fighting, +for the Souafah are tough men to deal with. It will +be a poor excuse for the Governor to plead before the +Pasha, that the caravan was guilty of this hoax, supposing +it so, and giving this as the reason for seizing the +peaceable caravan of an independent state. Indeed, who +shall decide that they gave false intelligence of the +Shânbah? And if they did, should this be the punishment +for spreading a false report? Many other disagreeable +thoughts occur. It is clear there is a violent +infraction of international law committed on our neighbour's +(the Touarick's) territory.</p> + +<p>Talking with a gossip about the character of Moors, +and he saying they were "<i>friends of flous</i> (money,)" <i>i. e.</i> +mercenary, and adding that the Touattee was the best +fellow amongst them. Said, who was present, said to me, +"Yes, it is so, and because he is a black man." Said +often repeats to me, "In Soudan it will cost you nothing +to live; being a stranger, everybody will feed you in our<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-342" id="V1-342"></a>[<a href="images/1-342.png">342</a>]</span> +country." Another free black took upon himself to ridicule +the constitution of the white man. "Ah," he cried, +"what is a white man! a poor weak creature; he can't +bear Soudan heat; he gets the fever, and dies. No, it is +the black man that is strong, strong always. He never +droops or sinks! Look at the strength of my limbs." +Such are the traits of character of coloured men in this +Saharan world. I add another anecdote. Speaking to +Berka one day, I said, "I shall have that Tibboo himself +sold as a slave; what right has he to bring people +here as slaves and sell them?" Berka mistook my meaning, +thinking that, because the Tibboo was black, I +wished to have him sold and punished, and not for being +a slave-dealer, and the old gentleman got into a great +passion, sharply reprimanding me in this style: "Yes, +Christian! drop that language; when you get to Soudan +you will find everybody black. Drop that language; +don't fancy, because the Tibboo is black, you can sell +him. Drop that language, for all are black there."</p> + +<p><i>7th.</i>—This morning, after a pursuit of three days, our +soldiers brought in the Souf Arabs, which has made a +great clamour in the town, as it always happens in disputed +cases, the people arranging themselves on different +sides as partisans, some for the Rais and others for the +Souafah. Called upon the Governor and told him I hoped +he would not take the <i>gomerick</i> ("duties") for the goods +of the caravan, as the people were brought here against +their will. His Excellency said he would not, but merely +reprimand them for spreading false news. It appears +there is some slight evidence of a hoax, but nothing to +justify such a violent measure. The Governor wants to +make it out that they might have been Shânbah, when<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-343" id="V1-343"></a>[<a href="images/1-343.png">343</a>]</span> +it was well known before their capture they were +Souafah.</p> + +<p>Every part of the date-palm is turned to account. +The fibrous net-work, which surrounds the ends of the +branches where they attach themselves to the trunk, +is woven into very strong and tough ropes, with which +the legs of camels are tied, and horses picketed. The +very stones are split and pounded, to fatten all animals +here. The branches make baskets of every kind; the +dried leaves are burned, and the trunk builds the houses, +supplying all the beams and rafters. One day, on looking +up to some palm wood-work, the old men present said, +"How old do you think that wood is, Yâkob?" "I +can't tell," I replied. They observed, "That wood is +upwards of three hundred years old. Indeed, we can't +tell how long it has been there. Our grandfathers found +it there, and it looked just the same then as now." It +was large beams of the trunk of the tree, with platted +thin pieces of the boughs across them, forming a fantastic +zig-zag joice of wood ceiling. The fruit of the date-palm +supports man, in many oases, nine months out of twelve. +In Fezzan, all the domestic animals, including dogs, and +horses, and fowls, eat dates. Such are some of the +various and important uses to which this noble tree is +turned. The Saharan tribes, likewise, are wont to live +for several months of the year upon two other products, +viz., milk and gum. Milk I have mentioned as supporting +the Touaricks exclusively six or more months in the +year. Gum, also, in the Western Sahara, furnishes +tribes with an exclusive sustenance for many months. +Even the prickly-pear, or fruit of the cactus, will support +a Barbary village for three months. It is, there<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-344" id="V1-344"></a>[<a href="images/1-344.png">344</a>]</span>fore, +not surprising the Irish peasant may live on potatoes +and milk the greater part of the year. The bead +on the date-stone is the part (vital) whence commences +germination, and sprouts the new shoots of the palm. +New shoots spring up all over the oases, but particularly +in those places where water is abundant, and +within and about the ducts of irrigation. These shoots +are collected for the new plantations, and the female +plants carefully separated from the males, and these +latter destroyed. Only a few male plants are kept for +impregnation.</p> + +<p><i>8th.</i>—Warm this morning, the cold weather gone +apparently for a short time. No patients. The long-expected +ghafalah from Tripoli has arrived by the way +of Derge, avoiding the more dangerous route of Seenawan, +by which latter I came here. No mail. All the +people now in a hurry to be off to Ghat, as their goods +have arrived. I begin to feel extremely irritable and +irresolute at the prospect of the new unknown Desert +journey. The old bandit called, and asked, "Well, are +you going?" I answered, "Yes, very soon, but I must +first have a letter of permission from the Pasha of Tripoli, +so the Rais says, for the Pasha is greatly afraid +you Touaricks will cut my throat." "God! God! God!" +exclaimed the bandit; "I'll risk my head that you'll go +on safe to Ghat and Aheer. But, as for those villains, +the Touaricks of Timbuctoo, those, I'll grant you, +are cut-throats." As I was about to take leave of the +old brigand, I gave him a piastre, and said, "Now tell +me fairly, and as an honest man, what is the reason +that the Touaricks kill Christians, and why did they kill +the English officer who went to Timbuctoo?" "Stop,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-345" id="V1-345"></a>[<a href="images/1-345.png">345</a>]</span> +stop," the brigand replied, very pleased with the piastre, +"I'll tell you. There are three reasons. First (scratching +with his spear on the ground), the Christians will +not say that Mahomet is the prophet of God. Second +(again scratching with his spear on the ground), the +Christians are the brothers of Pharaoh, and have plenty +of money; we are poor, we kill you for your money. +Third (again scratching), you wish to take our country. +You have nearly all the world; you have robbed us of +Algeria, and Andalous. Why don't you stop in the sea, +where you are? We shall not come to you. We don't +like the sea." Seeing I could make nothing of the old +sinner, so cunning was he, I gave him a piece of sugar +for his little son, and he went away. I thought often +of the words which I had recently read in the Arabic, +"The time will come when those who kill you will think +that they render service to God," (John xvi. 2,) when +discussing so repeatedly this question of the killing of +Christians by the Touaricks with the Rais, with the people +of Ghadames, and with the Touaricks themselves. +But has this principle alone reference to the wild tribes +of The Sahara? Has it not had a pointed application +in all the authenticated annals of the world? Take our +own era. The Jew thought he did service to God by +killing those who confessed Christ. Then the Imperial +Roman, he immolated the Christian who worshipped not +the image of Cæsar. Then the Roman Christian killed +the heretic Donatist, lighting up the flames of persecution +in this Africa. Then the Catholic killed the Protestant, +and deluged Europe with a sea of blood. Thus +in England we enacted our penal laws against +Catholics and Protestant Dissenters, some of which,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-346" id="V1-346"></a>[<a href="images/1-346.png">346</a>]</span> +to our shame, still exist on the statute book. What +a horrid heritage of murder for conscience' sake +has been transmitted to us in this nineteenth century? +And is the present fratricidal war in Switzerland unconnected +with this principle of blood and persecution! No; +and again, no! How, then, can we find fault with the +barbarians of the Great Desert? Nay, contrarily, those +who follow me through The Desert, will find the Saharan +Barbarians infinitely more tolerant than the mild, and +the gentle, and the polished, and the educated, and the +civilized, and the Christianized professors of religion in +our own great Europe!</p> + +<p>This afternoon the first portion of the Ghadamsee +Soudanic caravan left for Ghat, consisting of about +twenty-five camels, and some ten merchants and traders. +This is merely a detachment. The larger portion of the +population went to see them off, and several families +were dressed in their best clothes, as on festas. It is the +usual custom on the departure and return of caravans. +Two or three mounted on saddled Maharees accompanied +the caravan a day's journey. I have many offers +of the people, as in The Mountains, to accompany me to +Ghat: a strange infatuation for such rigid Moslems as the +Ghadamseeah!</p> + +<p>To-day I witnessed in my court-yard or <i>patio</i> a tremendous +struggle between an ant and a fly: both species +of insects are very numerous in Ghadames, and there +is a great number of various coloured ants. The ant +got hold of the muzzle of the fly, or its neck, and there +grasped it with as firm a grasp as it is possible to conceive +of one animal grasping another. In vain the fly +struggled and flapped its wings; over and over again<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-347" id="V1-347"></a>[<a href="images/1-347.png">347</a>]</span> +the combatants rolled as these weak defences beat the +air: and yet they must have had great force in them, +for they flung over the ant, of a good size, some hundred +times. The struggle continued a full half hour. I once +or twice took them up on a piece of straw, but the ant +never let go its hold on the fly, and paid no attention to +me. At last, the fly was exhausted, and ceased to flap +its tiny wings. The sanguinary ant strangled the poor +silly fly, as some sharper strangles or ruins his poor +dupe. After death, the ant seemed busy at sucking its +blood. Satiated with this, the ant attempted to convey +the fly away, dead as it was, but thinking better of the +matter, the carcase was abandoned. I observed that the +combat went on in the midst of a thousand flies, but +alas! these rendered their fellow, in this his death-struggle, +against a common foe, no assistance. Such is +the way the tyrants of the earth succeed! They strike +down the friends of freedom one by one, and the people, +as silly as the flies, leave their champions to struggle +alone against the common oppressor of mankind, only +thinking of what they shall eat and drink, in which +fashion adorn themselves, and how they shall fill up +sufficiently the measure of their idle days of folly.</p> + +<p>The whole phraseology of the Mediterranean is very +loose in the designation of persons and objects. The +Italians call every Mussulman <i>un Turco</i>, "a Turk." The +French of Algeria call every Mohammedan resident +amongst them "<i>un Arab</i>." So the Moors and Arabs +here call all people who are not Mussulmans <i>Ensara</i>, +‮الانصرا‬, "Christians," whether Pagans, Idolaters, or what +not. I was writing some information from the mouth of +a Moor, and got into a scrape. He told me there were<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-348" id="V1-348"></a>[<a href="images/1-348.png">348</a>]</span> +plenty of <i>Ensara</i> in Soudan, and I thought these might +be Abyssinian Christians, until I reflected that it was +merely the ordinary denomination of those who are not +Moslemites.</p> + +<p><i>9th.</i>—Slept very little during the past night; always +dreaming of Timbuctoo. The further an object is from +you the nearer it is to your thoughts. The morning +broke with a violent wind from the south-east, which is +exceedingly <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'diagreeable'">disagreeable</ins>. Rais continues very gracious, +and sends me constantly cakes, being a portion of what +he receives as presents from the people.</p> + +<p>I omit a great deal about Souf politics, not being +anxious to worry the reader with French and Tuniseen +Saharan diplomacy. But a Souafee's notion of hospitality +is rather, I should think, rigid. I said to a +Souafee, whose acquaintance I have made, "I shall come +to your country, and write all about it."</p> + +<p>"If you dare," he replied, "by G—d, the people will +immediately cut your throat."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"I will get an <i>amer</i> ('order') from the Bey of +Tunis, which will protect me."</p> + +<p>"No, no," rejoined the Souafee, "the people will tear +the amer to pieces, and set the Bey, the French, and all +Christians, at defiance."</p> + +<p>No doubt the Souafah, the most interesting Arabs of +all this region, are very fierce of their independence, +which explains their jealousy of the French, and their +determinedly withholding any mark of sovereignty, in +the way of tribute, from the Bey of Tunis. It appears, +however, two or three of the small districts have really +consented to pay a tribute to the French, an act of +decided usurpation on the part of France, as the Souf<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-349" id="V1-349"></a>[<a href="images/1-349.png">349</a>]</span> +oases "formerly did acknowledge" the sovereignty of +Tunis. It is, nevertheless, a pleasing trait in the character +of the Souafah, that they have permitted some +thirty families of Jews to settle amongst them, a concession +not yet made by the Marabouts of Ghadames.</p> + +<p>Within my couple of months' residence here, how +rapid has been the impoverishment of the country! +Everything gets worse and worse. Now, it is almost +impossible to get change for a Tunisian piastre. I've +been two days trying to get change, and have not yet +succeeded. The money in circulation is principally +Tunisian piastres; but since the Turks have come, +Turkish money also passes. There are, besides, a quantity +of Spanish dollars and five-franc pieces. Apparently, +all the money has left the country, or is <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'hidded'">hidden</ins> by the +people. A good deal, I have no doubt, has been hidden +within a few weeks. The Governor himself laments that +he changed a dollar yesterday for two karoubs (two +pence) less than its current value in Tripoli. His Excellency +is very low-spirited, and very sick. His Excellency +prays that the Pasha will allow him to return to Tripoli +a few months. Being a good man, the system of extortion +which he is obliged to put in practice to meet the +demands of the Pasha, makes his heart sick. His Excellency +assured me, that if the Souf Arabs had not lately +brought some money, with which they purchased slaves +for the markets of Algeria, there would have been no +money left in the country. The merchants say their +affairs must now be transacted in the way of barter, as +in Soudan. I am particular in noticing these things, +and the cause of the impoverishment of these unhappy +people, as showing the curse of the Turkish system on +the transactions of commerce.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-350" id="V1-350"></a>[<a href="images/1-350.png">350</a>]</span></p> + +<p>My taleb wrote in my journal this splendid Arabic +proverb:</p> + +<p class="figcenter"> +الرجال سناديق مغلقة ومفاتحها التجريب صدور الرجال +سنادق الاسرار</p> + +<p>"Men are locked-up boxes—experience opens them; the +bosom of man is a box of secrets."</p> + +<p><i>10th.</i>—To-day I ran about town to tire myself, in +order to sleep at nights. This morning, one of the two +expected ghafalahs of Tripoli, consisting of 117 camels +and twenty traders of Ghadames, arrived; the other +ghafalah will arrive in a few days. The ghafalah has +brought goods only for the interior. The merchants just +come report in town, "That Yâkob (myself) has written +to the English Consul of Tripoli, informing him how +<i>Aaron</i> (<i>Signor Silva</i>) lends money and goods to the +merchants of Ghadames, with which goods and money to +go into the interior, and traffick in slaves." This is substantially +correct; but it was written in confidence to +Colonel Warrington, and to no other person in Tripoli. +I expressly begged Colonel Warrington not to divulge +the fact, or my mention of such a matter, until I was out +of the lion's mouth of the slave-dealing interests of this +part of North Africa. The Consul, however, deemed it +his duty to disregard my request, and to divulge or +violate this confidence, and posted up a placard on the +door of the Tripoline Consulate, stating, "That certain +merchants, under British protection, were accused of +slave-dealing with the merchants of Ghadames, and calling +upon them to clear themselves from such an imputation." +Of course, as there was nobody else likely to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-351" id="V1-351"></a>[<a href="images/1-351.png">351</a>]</span> +make such an accusation but myself, being well known as +an anti-slavery man in Tripoli, the public attention was +at once directed to me as the accuser. The other merchant +alluded to is Mr. Laby (Levi), a Barbary Jew, and +the head of a house in Tripoli. Mr. Silva is also a Jew, +but from Europe. This report, circulating from mouth to +mouth, has created a tremendous sensation in Ghadames; +and the people fancy they see in it not only a blow aimed +at them and the slave-trade, but the final ruin of their +commerce, already sufficiently crippled by the oppression +of the Turks. I am, therefore, obliged to Colonel Warrington, +not so much for facilitating my progress in the +interior, as for increasing my difficulties a hundred-fold. +I was astonished that a high functionary, of thirty-three +years' experience in these countries, should have committed +such an act of egregious indiscretion, exposing +the life of a fellow countryman to such increased danger, +who was already without any kind of guaranteed protection. +If I had been murdered in The Desert tract +from Ghadames to Ghat, it would have most justly been +attributed to the placard placed on the doors of the +Consulate at Tripoli. Justice requires from me, however, +that I should state an indiscretion also on my part. I +wrote to the Consul that I had communicated the charge +against Messrs. Silva and Levi to the Secretary of the +British and Foreign Anti-Slavery Society, and did not +add, as I ought perhaps to have done, that I had likewise +begged of Mr. Scoble not to make the charge public +for the present. Colonel Warrington was afraid the +charge would be known in London before he had reported +upon it, and in this way his Consulate might +suffer in the eyes of Government. Now I shall not<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-352" id="V1-352"></a>[<a href="images/1-352.png">352</a>]</span> +trouble the reader with the proof of the charge. It must +already have been seen, that as the merchants of Ghadames +are drained of all their capital by the Turkish +Government, they, the merchants of Ghadames, are +obliged to fall back upon the merchants of Tripoli, who +will give them credit, some of which latter are under +British protection. So Sheikh Makouran complained +to me he could not now trade without the credit of Silva, +so the people told me the house of Ettanee, the other +great mercantile firm of this country, had received several +thousand dollars' worth of goods on credit from the +Messrs. Laby, and so the Rais frequently has told me, +the money of the merchants of Ghadames is in the +holding of those of Tripoli, who are mostly under European +protection. The question is, whether such a state +of things can be brought under the provision of Lord +Brougham's Act, for preventing British merchants from +trading in slaves, or aiding others to trade in slaves, in +foreign countries. It is a very delicate subject, because +the modes of evading the Act, by private and secret contracts, +are innumerable. British juries are also unwilling +to convict parties under this Act, and the case of +Zulueta failed not so much from the want of evidence +as from the unwillingness of the jury to come to an +impartial decision on the evidence.</p> + +<p>Whilst reflecting upon my very critical position, my +poor Said came in from the streets very much cast down, +and very sulky.</p> + +<p>"What's the matter?" I asked.</p> + +<p>"Oh!" blubbered Said, "the people are all talking +about your telling the Consul that the Jews lend them +goods to trade in slaves. They hate you now."<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-353" id="V1-353"></a>[<a href="images/1-353.png">353</a>]</span></p> + +<p>"Never mind," I returned, "it will pass away soon."</p> + +<p>Said had already become a staunch abolitionist, both +from principle and circumstances, and often asked me, +"When the English would put down the slave-trade in +Tripoli?" Said is by no means so stupid as I first +took him to be. I immediately determined not to go +out for two or three days until the excitement had +somewhat abated. In the evening I had many visitors, +who all spoke of my accusation against Levi and Silva. +I met the accusations by a deprecatory proposal of this +kind: "Would the Ghadamsee merchants consent to +abandon the traffic in slaves, on the conditions that some +English merchants would furnish them with goods on +credit at a lower rate than that which they obtained them +from Levi and Silva: if so, I would write about it to the +Consul? And, likewise, I would ask the Consul to get +their Soudan goods charged only five per cent. importation, +which was the sum paid for European goods coming +into Tripoli; thereby equalizing the per centage of the +imports and exports." My merchant friends received +this proposal very favourably, and swore there was no +profit in slaves, and declared themselves ready to give up +the traffic. Some proposed that they should try the gold +trade of Timbuctoo, and leave the Soudan trade altogether. +The traffic to Soudan is two-thirds in slaves or +more. I knew, however, that to expect such a thing +from the Turks, was all but hopeless,—their grand maxim +of Government being to depress and to destroy, not to +help and build up,—and I made to them the proposition +chiefly with the object of diverting the odium of the +accusation from myself. But yet, who does not see that +the proposal is well worthy the attention of any Govern<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-354" id="V1-354"></a>[<a href="images/1-354.png">354</a>]</span>ment +that wishes to establish in Africa a legitimate commerce, +a system of trade which a good man and a good +Government may approve of and support?</p> + +<p>Sixty Arab soldiers came yesterday from The Mountains +to protect the people whilst they are building the +caravansary of Emjessem. A merchant made a present +to-day of some slave neck-irons and leg-irons to the +Rais. His Excellency said to me, "I had none before, +it was necessary to have some of these things, in case +they should be wanted for the banditti who might be +captured." A person justly observed, "Before the <i>Truk</i> +(Turks) we had no need of these things, except for runaway +slaves, and we seldom used them." The Irishman +who discovered himself to be in a civilized country from +the erection of a gallows, might have equally proved the +advance of civilization in The Sahara from this fact.</p> + +<p><i>11th.</i>—Feel greatly discomposed on account of the +news which has transpired respecting the joint dealings +of Silva and Levi with our Ghadamsee merchants. One +trouble succeeds another, as the angry waves beating on +the rocky shore. First the pain of delay, then sickness, +now other matters, then the prospect of a dangerous +journey through The Desert, with a people who may look +upon me with dislike, distrust, and every kind of suspicion. . . . . . In +the past night, blew a gale from the +north-west. Slept very little. Also troubled with a +large boil. Received a visit from some of my old Arab +friends of the Rujban Mountains, who regaled themselves +with bread and dates. Called on the Rais, who was as +friendly as ever. If his Excellency have heard the +report, he has the delicacy to say nothing about it. His +Excellency told me he had dispatched ninety-two <i>shatahs</i>,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-355" id="V1-355"></a>[<a href="images/1-355.png">355</a>]</span> +or mails, during the fifteen months which he has been in +Ghadames. It is reported in town, that Signor Silva is +in a great fright, and fears being arrested by the British +Consul at the order of the Queen. A notary visited me +to-day, laughed at the news of Silva, and was very +friendly; he protested the people got nothing by slave-dealing. +Begin to feel relieved, but I see clearly some +discouraging circumstances. My taleb comes in as usual, +but the turjeman is frightened and keeps away. Several +of the merchants positively affirm, that now, since the +market of Tunis is shut, and the Pasha takes ten dollars +duty on each slave, there is no profit in slave-dealing. +However, news has arrived from Ghat that a great many +slaves are coming with the next caravan from Soudan.</p> + +<p>This evening was glad to go with the Rais to see the +ruins of <i>Kesar-El-Ensara</i>, ‮قصر الانصرا‬, "The Castle of +the Christians," although I had seen them often before. It +was a great relief to me. The Rais put his head down +to the vaults under the ruins to listen to the conversation +of the <i>Jenoun</i>, or "Demons." His Excellency said he +thought he heard the Demons talking. The ruins are +situate about half a mile from the walls of the city S.SW. +All the piles have a small vault under them, apparently for +water, but it might have been an excavated tomb. The +people pretend that these ruins are four thousand years +of age. A son of the late Yousef Bashaw, on a visit to +Ghadames, about thirty years ago, to amuse himself and +frighten the demons, blew up a large portion of the +ruins with gunpowder. Previously the ruins were much +more perfect and imposing. I have made a sketch of +what remains of these ancient buildings. The style of +the buildings can be easily distinguished from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-356" id="V1-356"></a>[<a href="images/1-356.png">356</a>]</span> +modern by its being composed of a very white cement +and small stones, half the size of ordinary paving stones, +the cement being in a large proportion. My turjeman +once pointed out to me a piece of the ancient walls of +the city, still remaining, exactly corresponding to these +ruins. I have seen frequent ruins of ancient Roman +walls, representing the same kind of building in North +Africa. This Kesar-El-Ensara, together with the bas-relief, +and the Latin inscription, copied by a Moor from +a tomb-stone, beginning with the words "<i>Diis Manibus</i>," +are more than sufficient evidence to prove that Ghadames +was "colonized," as it was called, by the Romans, and +probably earlier by the Greeks and Carthaginians. The +same Moorish prince who blew up the ruins, carried +away also to Tripoli the tomb-stone, from which a Moor +copied the inscription, and which transcript I brought with +me from Ghadames. The copyist of this inscription +says, he affixed the Arabic letters in order that the +Mussulman might compare them with the Christian +letters and find out their sense, but he himself did not +know what were their meaning. On returning from +Kesar-El-Ensara, we looked around and were painfully +impressed with the appalling barrenness of The Sahara. +The Rais said, "Ah, these people, little know they what +a garden is my country compared to this!" The Rais +then stumbled over a small solitary herb and exclaimed +instinctively, <i>Hamdullah</i>, "Praise to God," picking it +up. What attracted our attention was the almost infinite +number of small serpentine camel-tracks, wriggling +endlessly through the wastes of The Sahara. The Rais +said, "Those Touaricks are incarnate Genii! they know +all these paths:" pointing south towards Ghat.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-357" id="V1-357"></a>[<a href="images/1-357.png">357</a>]</span></p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-14.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-14_th.jpg" alt="Ancient Ruins of Ghadames" title="Ancient Ruins of Ghadames" /></a></p> + +<p>Ghadames, ‮غدامس‬, is the ancient <i>Cydamus</i>, the +name being precisely the same. In the year 19 before +our era, it was subjugated by Cornelius Balbus, being at +that period in the possession of a people called Garamtes. +The Romans are said to have embellished it, and probably +built the fortifications whose ruins have been just +described. In an ancient itinerary, from Tunis to Ghadames, +we find the following names of stations, viz., +Berezeos, Ausilincli, Agma, Augemmi, Tabalata, Thebelami +and Tillibari. Leo Africanus, gives the subjoined +account of Ghadames:</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gademes, abitazione.</span>—Gademes è una grande abitazione, +dove sono molti castelli e popolosi casali, discosti +dal mare Mediterraneo, verso mezzogiorno, circa a +trecento miglia. Gli abitatori sono ricchi di possessioni +di datteri, e di danari, perciocchè sogliono mercatantare +nel paese de' Negri: e si reggono da lor medesimi, e +pagano tributo agli Arabi; ma prima erano sotto il re di +Tunis, cioè il luogotenente di Tripoli. E vero che quivi +il grano e la carne sono molto cari.—(Part vi., chap. <span class="smcap">l</span>ii.)</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-56" id="FoN_1-56"></a><a href="#FNa_1-56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> In the Tunisian Jereed there are more than two hundred different +varieties. Some thrive in one kind of soil, and some in +another. At first it is difficult for a stranger to distinguish these +varieties, but when his eye becomes practised, he can easily do so +at a great distance.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-57" id="FoN_1-57"></a><a href="#FNa_1-57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> <i>Ghusub</i>, ‮قسب‬, a species of millet. <i>Pennisetum Tyhoideum.</i> +Rich. It is called <i>drâ</i> in Tunis and <i>bishma</i> in Tripoli.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-358" id="V1-358"></a>[<a href="images/1-358.png">358</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<h3>PREPARATIONS FOR GOING TO SOUDAN.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Weariness and Exhaustion in Preparating and Waiting to Depart.—Cold +intensely set in.—Excitement of the Messrs. Silva and +Levi affair subsiding.—Suffer from Bad Health.—Pet Ostrich.—Longevity +in The Desert.—Mahometan Doctrine of Judicial +Blindness.—Custom of Dipping and Sopping in Meats.—Mahometan +Propositional Form of Doctrine.—The Wild-Ox, or +<i>Bughar Wahoush</i>.—Salting and Drying Meat for Preservation.—My +Friend, the Arab Doctor.—Ravages of Shânbah Brigandage.—The +Immemorial Character of the Arab.—Excess of Transit +Duties.—Person and Character of Rais Mustapha.—Character +of Sheikh Makouran.—Testimonial of the People of Ghadames +in my Favour.—Personal Character of my Taleb and Turjeman.—Quarrel +with a Wahabite.—Said gets Saucy and Unruly, and +development of his Character.—Purchase my <i>Nagah</i> or +she-Camel.—Departure from Ghadames, and False Report of the +appearance of the Shânbah.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>12th.</i>—<span class="smcap">Slept</span> little during the night. Sorry I can't +read during the nights on account of my eyes. But +somewhat improved in health. Saw several merchants +who say nothing of the Levi and Silva business. I'm in +hopes this subject will not be agitated during the few +days I have to remain in Ghadames. The second ghafalah +has arrived but brings me nothing, not even the +medicines ordered from Tripoli. Patience! What can +be done? The Governor affected this evening to be +very indignant against the son of Yousef Bashaw for +destroying the ruins of Kesar-El-Ensarah. The Turks +are becoming antiquaries, and, perhaps, begin to see +the uselessness and folly of destroying ancient buildings<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-359" id="V1-359"></a>[<a href="images/1-359.png">359</a>]</span> +for the sake of destroying them, even though they belong +to an infidel age. To their credit, the Moors themselves +are fond of antiquity in churches, and will patch up a +marabet or mosque as long as they can. The Rais, still +frightened, suggests that I should return to Tripoli. But +I cannot now, I will not. I ought not, for I have acted +over all the pains and perils of the journey to Soudan +many days and nights, and exhausted myself with expectations, +casualties, probabilities and conceivabilities, +&c., &c. I am now, in truth, suffering all sorts of maladies, +mental and bodily. Such is the wretched existence +we are doomed to sustain! And yet is not this our +mortal existence a still greater curse to the man, who +lives without an object and without an aim?</p> + +<p><i>13th.</i>—Talk of heat and the burning desert, I had +last night an attack of cold, which I shall not forget to +the latest day of my life! My limbs all shrunk together, +my teeth chattered, and I did not know what pains +or disease was about to come upon me. This happened +whilst undressing. I immediately dressed myself in all +my thickest heaviest clothes, lay down, and in twenty +minutes happily recovered from the attack. But scarcely +slept all night, got a few winks of sleep this morning. +I attribute all this to the nervous agitation of advancing +into The Desert without a guide or friend, on whom I +can rely, combined with the severity of the season fast +setting in. Glad to see the sensation of the Silva business +dying away. People begin to laugh at me about +it, and call the Consul <i>Sheytan</i> for disclosing the purport +of a letter written confidentially to him. However, +I cannot conceive that Colonel Warrington was influenced +by any other feelings than those which resulted from<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-360" id="V1-360"></a>[<a href="images/1-360.png">360</a>]</span> +a strict sense of duty. Apparently zealous in the performance +of his public avocations, he was determined to discharge +them at any cost, even at the sacrifice of the life of +a fellow-countryman. This is all I can now say about +the matter. Fortunately I was well known here, and +the people could not believe that it was from any ill-will +to them that I denounced the parties, which I hope the +reader will give me credit for; nor, indeed, could I have +any hostile feelings against the Tripoline merchants. +What I wish, and I imagine every friend of Africa does +the same, is to see a legitimate commerce established in +The Desert. It is curious to hear the Touatee. He +says he is sure I never wrote the letter at all, although I +tell him I did, and believes it an invention of people in +Tripoli. He won't believe his friend Yâkob would +breathe a syllable against the people of Ghadames.</p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—Slept very little during the night and cannot. +Am really reduced to very low disagreeable feelings. +Have an immense boil on my back, and another on my +arm, which I attribute to the effect of the climate on my +constitution, or to drinking Ghadames water.</p> + +<p>News have come of the Shânbah having left their +sandy wilds on a free-booting expedition, leaving only +the old men, women, and children behind, for these +banditti propagate through all time a race of Saharan +robbers, the scourge of The Desert. Five weeks ago +they took their departure towards Ghat, and it is thought +they wish to intercept our caravan now leaving. Also a +skirmish has taken place between some Souafah banditti +and Arabs of Algeria. These banditti were routed, +leaving eighteen dead on the field and many camels.</p> + +<p>An ostrich, caught at Seenawan, has been brought in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-361" id="V1-361"></a>[<a href="images/1-361.png">361</a>]</span> +here and presented to the Rais. His Excellency promised +to give him to me if I will return from Soudan +<i>viâ</i> Ghadames. He is a young bird and amuses us +much, running about the streets, picking up things in +character of scavenger. People are trying to make him +lie down at the word of command. "Kaed, (lie down)," +cries one, "Kaed," another; at length the stunned and +stupefied bird lies down.</p> + +<p><i>16th.</i>—Occupied 13th, 14th, and 15th in writing +letters. Received a letter from Dr. Dickson, of Tripoli, +expressing friendly feelings. He has prepared some +more medicines, packed them up, and charged them to +me. Received a very friendly letter also from Colli, Sardinian +Consul at Tripoli. Mr. Colli is a fine classical +scholar, and the only consul I have met with in North +Africa who pays any attention to classical literature. +The late Mr. Hay of Tangier, had the reputation amongst +some people of being a classical scholar.</p> + +<p>Continue unwell and in low spirits, or as the Negroes +say, am possessed by the <i>Boree</i> ("blue devils.") Days +are short, and nights tedious and painful to me, as I +cannot use my eyes by lamp-light, on account of a slight +continued ophthalmia. Nothing remarkable to-day. If +you want to feel alone in the world, which at times has +its advantages, go into The Desert.</p> + +<p><i>17th.</i>—To my great satisfaction the mail arrived this +morning, bringing letters and newspapers. The Governor +is very friendly and is in better health. Quarrelled with +Ben Mousa, my taleb, for eating Said's dinner when I +was out of the way; to-day Said got him reconciled to +me. Haj Mansour's family consists of thirty-two persons, +all living in one house. This is the great <i>quasi</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-362" id="V1-362"></a>[<a href="images/1-362.png">362</a>]</span> +negro-merchant before mentioned. His father died a +Saharan veteran of the age of one hundred and one. He +had been more than a hundred times over The Desert +trading. Yesterday died a man at the age of ninety-six. +There are several women now living more than eighty. +How long these poor creatures survive their feminine +charms! A woman in The Desert gets old after thirty. +I think, from what I have heard, people live to a great +age in this and other oases—if not to a good and happy +old age. Some remarkable cases of longevity in The +Desert have been narrated by Captain Riley. Said says +the people rob us desperately when they make our +bread. We usually buy the wheat and have it ground +and made into bread at the same time. I tell Said we +must expect this sort of pilfering where there are so +many hungry people.</p> + +<p>My taleb began his interminable discussions on religion. +He said he had hoped that I should have recognized +Mahomet as the prophet of God, being acquainted +as I was with Arabic, the language of truth and unmatched +by any language in the world<a name="FNa_1-58" id="FNa_1-58"></a><a href="#FoN_1-58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a>. I replied +language was not enough, other things were necessary; +besides, indeed, some of the Mussulman doctors had +said the Koran could be imitated and even excelled. +The taleb replied, "A lie! the doctors were heretics and +infidels, it is impossible to imitate the Koran's beautiful +language," citing the well-known words of Mahomet:—</p> + +<p>"<i>Answer.</i>—Bring therefore a chapter like unto it;<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-363" id="V1-363"></a>[<a href="images/1-363.png">363</a>]</span> +and call whom you may to your assistance, besides God, +if ye speak the truth."—(Surat ii., entitled "Jonas.")</p> + +<p>The taleb then turned to my turjeman, who was present, +and cited another passage, thinking I did not +understand what it was. The passage quoted was the +famous anathema of judicial blindness denounced against +infidels:—</p> + +<p>"As to the unbelievers, it will be equal to them +whether thou admonish them, or do not admonish them; +they will not believe. God hath sealed up their hearts +and their hearing; a dimness covereth their sight, and +they shall suffer a grievous punishment."—(Surat ii., +entitled "the Cow.")</p> + +<p>This is evidently an imitation<a name="FNa_1-59" id="FNa_1-59"></a><a href="#FoN_1-59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> of our Scriptural passages, +of which there are several:</p> + +<p>"Well spake the Holy Ghost by Esaias the prophet +unto our fathers, saying, Go unto this people and say, +Hearing ye shall hear and shall not understand, and +seeing ye shall see and not perceive. For the heart of +this people has waxed gross, and their ears are dull of +hearing, and their eyes have they closed; lest they should +see with their eyes, and hear with their ears, and understand +with their heart, and should be converted, and I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-364" id="V1-364"></a>[<a href="images/1-364.png">364</a>]</span> +should heal them."—(Acts xxviii. 25, 26, 27.) So we +have in John x. 26:—"But you believe not because you +are not of my sheep."</p> + +<p>Besides these imitations, Mahomet has made differences +for the sake of differences. So the Sabbath of +the Moslemites is on the Friday, because that of the +Christians and Jews is on the Saturday and Sunday. I +taxed my taleb with his quotation. He did not flinch +or blink a hair of the eyelid, but said, "You Christians +cannot believe if you would, because God has blinded +your eyes and hardened your hearts." "Why do you +complain of us?" I remonstrated. "I do not complain," +he rejoined, "it is all destined." I then related a story +of predestination which I had heard, of one man asking +another, "If all things were predestined?" and he +replying, "Yes;" the questioner immediately threw him +out of the window, saying, "Well, that is also predestined." +An old Moor sitting by, very attentively listening, +exclaimed immediately, "Well, even that throwing +out of the window, Yâkob, was also predestined." Said +then brought in some stewed meat. I gave my theological +disputants, reasoning—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Of Providence, foreknowledge, will and fate,</span> +<span class="ihalf">Fix'd fate, free will, foreknowledge absolute,</span> +<span class="ihalf">And found no end, in wandering mazes lost,"</span> +</div></div> + +<p>some bread, and they began breaking it and dipping it +in the gravy of the meat, the invariable custom here. +Spoons they abominate, it is either their fingers, or +sopping. The Biblical reader will easily recognize the +custom. I took the Testament and read to the taleb +this passage:—"And," said Jesus, "He it is to whom I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-365" id="V1-365"></a>[<a href="images/1-365.png">365</a>]</span> +shall give a sop, when I have dipped it; and he took +a sop and gave it to Judas Simon Iscariot."—<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: added missing parenthesis">(</ins>John +xiii. 26.)</p> + +<p>The taleb was greatly delighted, and said, "Yes, so +it was in all times before the infidels introduced knives +and forks and spoons to eat with." I observed it was +much more cleanly to eat with knives and forks than +with one's fingers, but it was useless. He only replied, +"There's water always to wash your hands." The sop +mentioned in the passage cited might consist of a piece +of bread dipped into a dish of fat or broth. So all +Ghadames people eat, dipping pieces of bread, as they +break them from a loaf, into fat or broth, or other dishes +of this sort. We shall find, for what cause I cannot +tell, the Touaricks using spoons, and spoons which are +made in Central Africa, and distributed throughout The +Sahara amongst the Touarghee tribes. This little circumstance +would seem to be an argument against the +Oriental origin of the Touaricks, for, eternally dipping and +sopping, and sopping and dipping with the fingers, is coextensive +with the migrations of the Arabs and other tribes +from the East. Jews were the first to introduce knives +and forks into Mogador, because they have not the same +religious scruples on this head as Mohammedans. Barbary +Jews do it in imitation of their European brethren. +I shall trouble the reader with another display of the +sectarian zeal of my taleb.</p> + +<p>To make a proposition, or a double proposition, of a +form of the orthodox Christian faith, I had constructed +the following, in imitation of the double proposition of +the Mahometans, (that is<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-366" id="V1-366"></a>[<a href="images/1-366.png">366</a>]</span>—</p> + +<p class="figcenter">‮لا لله الّا الله ومحمّد رسول الله‬</p> +<p class="figcenter">"There is one God, and Mahomet is the prophet of God,")</p> +<p> </p> +<p class="figcenter">‮لا لله الّا الله ويسوع ابن الله‬</p> +<p class="figcenter">"There is one God, and Jesus is the son of God."</p> + +<p>The first proposition is seen to be the same; whilst the +divine nature of the Saviour, which is the distinguishing +feature of the Christian religion as looked upon by Mussulmans, +is added in the words ‮ابن الله‬. The number +of syllables is precisely the same, the ‮و‬ being merely considered +as the connecting link of the two propositions. +But the term ‮عيسي‬ would be much preferable to ‮يسوع‬, +being the classic Arabic term. In teaching Christian doctrine +to Mussulmans, and, indeed, to all people, it is necessary +to adapt our style and language to their style and +language and mode of conception. The Catholics, however, +carried the adaptation too far when they turned the +statues of Jupiter and the Emperors into those of the +Apostles and Saints. For the Jews, the proposition could +be made thus:—</p> + +<p class="figcenter">‮لا لله الّا الله ويسوع هو المسيح‬</p> +<p class="figcenter">"There is one God, and Jesus is the Messiah;"</p> + +<p>or as we find the proposition in the first verse of the +first chapter of St. Mark,</p> + +<p class="figcenter">‮[لا لله الّا الله] ويسوع المسيح ابن الله‬</p> +<p class="figcenter">"There is one God, and Jesus, the Messiah, is the Son of God."</p> + +<p>This, being more full of doctrine, including both the divi<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-367" id="V1-367"></a>[<a href="images/1-367.png">367</a>]</span>nity +and Messiahship of The Saviour, would, perhaps, be +the preferable form of the latter proposition. I showed the +taleb these propositions, and he was greatly exasperated, +adding it was blasphemy to connect Christian and Jewish +ideas with "the Word of God" (‮كلام الله‬). He added, +oddly enough, "Such impious things had never been +before done in this holy place, this sacred Ghadames."</p> + +<p><i>18th.</i>—The Rais makes a last effort to persuade me +to return to The Mountains, and take the route of Fezzan, +adding as a reason, which tourists would very properly +consider an objection, "that I knew now the route to +The Mountains." I rejoined, "From what I have seen +of the people of Ghadames, and even the Touaricks, I +think I may trust them as well as the people of Tripoli." +<i>The Rais</i>: "Well, you are your own master; +the Pasha says you may go if you like. The Ghadamseeah +and Touaricks are one people; make friends with +them. But I'm sorry, after you have seen all my kindness +to you, my advice is nevertheless rejected." The +Rais now saw I was inexorable, and left off advising.</p> + +<p>To-day some wild-ox, <i>bughar wahoush</i><a name="FNa_1-60" id="FNa_1-60"></a><a href="#FoN_1-60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a>,—‮بقر وحوش‬ +was brought in from The Desert. This is the hunting +time, which lasts three months, and the flesh of this +animal supplies a very good substitute for beef. Indeed, +the animal is a species of buffalo, but very small, sometimes +not much larger than a good-sized English sheep. +They are hunted in the sands to the north-west by Souf +Arabs, who are excellent hunters, and pursue the chase +twenty days together through the sandy regions. People +pretend the bughar wahoush does not drink; perhaps +they don't drink much. But both the wild ox and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-368" id="V1-368"></a>[<a href="images/1-368.png">368</a>]</span> +aoudad are occasionally caught near the wells, a sufficient +proof they sometimes drink water. I cooked some, and +found it of excellent flavour. People call this animal +also medicine. I purchased half of one to salt for my +journey to Ghat, but spoilt it by too much salting. The +salt ate away all the flesh from the bones. I neglected +the advice of Said, who assured me people salt meat +very little in Soudan. Indeed, they frequently cut the +meat into strips and dry it in the sun without salting. +In this way caravans are provisioned over The Desert. +I ate some, and found it very good. My Arab friend, +the old doctor, brought me a small prickly shrub, which +he calls <i>El-Had</i>, ‮الحد‬, and says it has powerful purgative +qualities, purging even the camels. It abounds in The +Sahara.</p> + +<p>We, The Desert Quack and English Quack, bandy +compliments together.</p> + +<p><i>Desert Quack.</i>—"Whilst you are here, you are the +Sublime Doctor (Ettabeeb Elâttheem)." [As much as to +say, "When you are not here, I am The Sublime +Doctor."]</p> + +<p><i>English Quack.</i>—"How? No, you are always The +Sublime Doctor. I am at your disposal. I am your +slave."</p> + +<p><i>Desert Quack.</i>—"Impossible! Haram, it is prohibited. +You are the wise doctor, you know all things."</p> + +<p><i>English Quack.</i>—"How many people have you killed +by your physic?"</p> + +<p><i>Desert Quack</i> [surprised at this abrupt and impertinent +question].—"God forefend that I should kill any one! +But sometimes <i>Rubbee</i> (God) takes away my patients, +and sometimes they get better. But whether they die<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-369" id="V1-369"></a>[<a href="images/1-369.png">369</a>]</span> +or live, people always say, 'It is written (predestined).'"</p> + +<p>I then related the story of Gil Blas, who bled to +death the rich lady, under the precepts of Dr. San +Grado, and was challenged in mortal combat by the +suitor of the fair dame. On which he observed, "Gil +Blas was a dog. I trust the other man killed him. +Here we bleed, but we always know when blood enough +is left in a man to keep him alive."</p> + +<p>"How do you know that?" I replied.</p> + +<p><i>The Taleb.</i>—"1st. I see if he sinks down. 2nd. I +ask Rubbee. 3rd. Sometimes the Jenoun (demons) tell +me. 4th. If he dies, what matter? Is it not the will +of God?"</p> + +<p><i>19th.</i>—Great preparations are now going on for the +departure of the ghafalah to Ghat and Soudan. An +order has come from the Pasha, that the Rais may take +2,500 instead of 3,250, less 750. This the people +must pay. And I hear the poor wretches have at last +consented to swallow the bitter pill. Every man, having +a small property, or a householder, will pay each five +mahboubs; the merchants considerably more. A little +by little, till the vitals of this once flourishing oasis are +torn out, and it becomes as dead as The Desert around +it.</p> + +<p><i>20th.</i>—This morning a slave ghafalah arrives from +Ghat with forty slaves. Two escaped <i>en route</i>. What +could the poor creatures do in The Desert? They must +have perished very soon. The ghafalah brings important +news. The Shânbah, 700 strong, had been ravaging +the country of the Ghat Touaricks, and had murdered +thirty-seven people. The Touaricks were arming, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-370" id="V1-370"></a>[<a href="images/1-370.png">370</a>]</span> +in pursuit of the Shânbah assassins. Besides this, the +Shânbah have captured a Ghadamsee ghafalah, escorted by +Touaricks, not respecting a jot the Maraboutish character +of this city. It consisted of thirty camels, laden mostly +with the property of our merchants. Sheikh Makouran +himself lost 2,000 mahboubs. Total loss for the merchants +here is about 15,000 dollars. It is the caravan +which left these two months ago, and took a letter for me +to the Governor of Ain Salah. Both letters have been +unlucky; the one sent to Ghat could not be delivered +because the Governor was changed; and this one, I +imagine, has fallen into the hands of the Shânbah. +Two slaves escaped with a water-skin. They then fell +in with some Touaricks, who gave them a little bread, +and in this dreadful plight they got to Ghat. One died +after his arrival. What became of the Touaricks is not +yet known. They are probably massacred. I made the +acquaintance of these luckless Touaricks, and gave them +some medicine to take to Touat. In this foray the +Shânbah killed a little child of three years old. When +they struck down a man, they ripped open his belly and left +him. These Shânbah banditti (who, to my surprise, are +lauded in the French works published by the Minister of +War, as the most enterprising camel-drivers and merchants +in The Sahara,) are, without doubt, what the +people say here, the vilest and most bloodthirsty miscreants +in The Desert. How strange it is they are +Arabs! It is always the Arab, who is the most +thorough-going, hereditary, eternal robber of The Desert! +Is it because we read, "And he will be a wild man; his +hand will be against every man, and every man's hand +against him?" The disposition for brigandage in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-371" id="V1-371"></a>[<a href="images/1-371.png">371</a>]</span> +soul of the Arab was a proverb of Jewish antiquity. +So we have, ‮כַּעֳרָבִי בַּמִּדְבַּר‬, "As the Arabian in the Wilderness." +My Arabic translation, which was done by +the Missionaries of the Roman Church, follows some of +the ancient versions, and renders it ‮مثل اللّص‬ "like the +thief in the Desert" (See Jeremiah iii. 2.) Still, Mr. +D'Israeli thinks there's nothing like Arab blood, if we +read aright his "Tancred," and would have us regenerate +the old effete race of Europe by this fiery and +bloodthirsty Oriental barbarian, as the Arabian stallion +improves our dull race of horses. It is reported, in +town, "When the Shânbah cut to pieces the thirty-seven +Touaricks, one man was left untouched amidst the +slaughter, owing his safety to his <i>Ajab</i>, ‮عجب‬ (amulets), +which he wore in great profusion." This lucky charm-clad +fellow saw the whole business from first to last, +unmoved amidst the commingled cries of the victims and +their slaughterers, and made a full report to the Touarghee +chiefs. Talking to Rais about this slaughter, his +Excellency observed, in the spirit of true Turkish policy, +"So much the better. Let the Touaricks and Shânbah +slaughter one another, as long as we are left unharmed. +The less of them the better for us." So the Turks have +always dealt with the quarrels of the Arab tribes in +Barbary, rather blowing up the flames of their discord +than pacifying them. The Shânbah drove away a thousand +camels, besides sheep and oxen, from the Touarick +districts. The merchants are all frightened enough, and +our departure is deferred, notwithstanding that the slave +caravan met with no accident. The Shânbah have now +got their booty and revenge, and will probably decamp<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-372" id="V1-372"></a>[<a href="images/1-372.png">372</a>]</span> +and leave the route clear for us. Common misfortunes +often make friends of enemies. I saw Sheikh Makouran +and Mohammed Ben Mousa Ettanee, the two principal +merchants representing the factions of Weleed and +Wezeet, very busy in conversation upon the neutral ground +of the market-place, talking over their mutual losses. +Both have lost property to a great amount by this Shânbah +irruption.</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i>—The departure of the ghafalah is deferred to +the 24th. Rais is busy in comparing the papers of the +merchants with the goods arrived from Tripoli. These +ill-used merchants pay 13 per cent. for exporting their +goods from Tripoli to the interior. The same goods +have already paid 5 per cent. when imported into +Tripoli by the European merchants. There is then the +profit of our Ghadamsee merchants, and the profit of +native merchants, and the merchants and the manufacturers +in Europe. At what price, then, above their +intrinsic value, are those goods sold to the merchants of +Central Africa? A hideous thing is this system of +transit duties!</p> + +<p><i>22nd.</i>—Weather is cold, everybody wraps up. People +sit two or three hours together out of doors in the +morning before they'll stir. I ask them, "Why don't +you move about,—you would be then warm?" They +answer, "<i>Măzāl shemtz</i>" (no sun yet). Rais is excessively +gracious: he gave me a small loaf of white sugar. +I had none left, and the gift came in the nick of time +when required. I have said so much about Rais +Mustapha, that I must now give a personal description +of his Excellency, before I take leave of him and of +Ghadames. First of all, Rais is not a military man;<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-373" id="V1-373"></a>[<a href="images/1-373.png">373</a>]</span> +he is a civil servant of the Porte, and receives his pay +direct from the Sultan. The Turks often employ a civil +servant where we should expect to see a military man, +as in this distant Saharan post, and find it to their +advantage. The Governor for military advice usually +writes to the Commandant of The Mountains. His Excellency +rarely reads, but writes constantly, and is very +expert in accounts, his principal occupation being the +collecting of small monies. His Excellency is also fond +of collecting coins of different Mussulman States. The +reader has seen that he is very attentive to his religious +duties, and is quite, if not superior "marabout odour." His +Excellency scarcely ever punishes anybody, beats his +slaves seldom, but can be very despotic when he pleases. +Like most Turks, he has a smack of bad faith in him, +and made the Souf Arabs pay the duty on the goods in +their possession, though he promised people he would +not. We may suppose he is very badly off for money; +perhaps his own salary is not very regularly paid. His +Excellency always behaved very well when I purchased +any corn of him. He is generally esteemed by the +people. In person the Rais is exceeding tall, above a +convenient height; he is about forty years of age, with +strongly-marked Turkish features, and a large aquiline +nose. His limbs are heavy and large, but since his residence +here he has lost all his flesh. He dresses in +the common dress of Ottoman functionaries. I often +found him chatty and facetious, but sometimes he was +sulky and morose, and would not speak for hours together. +He had a fine horse, but rarely could be prevailed +upon to go out and ride for his health. Every great +man has his shadow, his echo, the expression of himself<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-374" id="V1-374"></a>[<a href="images/1-374.png">374</a>]</span> +more or less in his fellow men. The Rais's shadow is +one Abd Errahman, a small merchant. His sons call their +father <i>souwa-souwa</i> ("like-like") with the Rais. Abd +Errahman knew the Rais's most secret thoughts, and he +was the only Ghadamsee in whom the Rais could entirely +confide. Abd Errahman swore by the Governor's head, +and was his most obedient humble servant.</p> + +<p>Sheikh Makouran is occupied in purchasing me an +outfit of Moorish costume for the The Desert. He is +very slow, but he gets them cheaper than if I bought +them myself. He purchases one thing one day, and +another thing the next day, and all from different persons. +This is the way here. Attempted myself to +purchase two turbans, one for myself and one for Said, +but I found it no easy matter. The owner asked three +dollars each, alleging that the turbans had been "blessed +at Mecca<a name="FNa_1-61" id="FNa_1-61"></a><a href="#FoN_1-61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a>." I refused to give this price, and it was +agreed to wait till the Sheikh came. This was decided +by a council of the people, against the wish of the owner, +who objected to waiting. At length the Sheikh made +his appearance. Nothing was said about the price, for +every one knew they must abide by the Sheikh's decision. +The Sheikh after examining the turbans, said to +the seller, "Let them be sold for one dollar each." The +owner began to exclaim against this decision, but the +Sheikh stopped his mouth!—"This is our friend (<i>habeebna</i>). +Do you wish to rob him? Is this your kindness<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-375" id="V1-375"></a>[<a href="images/1-375.png">375</a>]</span> +to a stranger, who has lived with us so long, and whom +we all love?" These words were uttered with the +greatest energy, and silenced every objection. I paid the +money, and a quarter of a dollar more for mine. Without +exception, the Sheikh was the most just and kindest +man I met with in Ghadames, and yet he had the reputation +of being close-fisted in money matters. He refused +to receive any rent for his house in which I lived, and +when I left he ordered a quantity of cakes to be made +for me, which he brought me himself. They were very +nice, made of butter, and honey, and dates, and lasted +me all the way to Ghat. Makouran pressed the Rais to +write for me to the Touarick authorities of Ghat; but his +Excellency could not without an order from Tripoli. I +am under very great obligations to the Sheikh, who +behaved like a father to me in a land of strangers. His +brother was kindness itself, but had not the spirit of the +Sheikh. His eldest son, Haj Besheer, was also a very +kind and upright young man. Haj Besheer has immense +influence with the Touaricks, and if he had gone with me +to Ghat, nothing would have happened. His principal +connexions are in Touat, and I really think that an +European, going with letters from him to one of his +Touarghee friends, might make the journey to Timbuctoo +in safety. Sheikh Makouran took me to-day before the +Rais and Kady, and in their presence a long "Testimonial" +of the people of Ghadames was drawn out in +Arabic, stating that during the time I had resided in +Ghadames I had conducted myself well, and given no +offence to any one. This was signed by the Kady, on +behalf of all the people, in presence of the Rais and +the Nather and several other officers. I was requested<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-376" id="V1-376"></a>[<a href="images/1-376.png">376</a>]</span> +to countersign it, which I did with these words: "I have +remained three months in Ghadames, and now leave it +with great personal satisfaction to myself, and in peace +with all the inhabitants." A copy of this I made for +the Kady to keep in Ghadames. The "Testimonial" +itself was sent to Colonel Warrington, through the +Pasha, who either did not forward it to the Colonel, or +it has been mislaid or lost, for it cannot now be found in +the Consulate Archives. The people of Ghadames were +determined to give me this testimonial in order that the +Turkish authorities should not hereafter bring any accusation +against me. It was dated the 24th, or the day +fixed for departure.</p> + +<p>The Rais astonished me to-day, by telling me, he had +bastinadoed twice my taleb, Ben Mousa, for dishonesty. +I absolutely thought the Rais was joking, for the Rais +and the taleb seemed always pretty good friends. I knew +Ben Mousa was not extremely delicate, and would sometimes +sit down with Said and eat his dinner away from +him. I inquired of the turjeman about it, who assured +me it was no joke, and that Ben Mousa had been twice +bastinadoed for borrowing things and not returning them. +I was extremely sorry to hear this, for I had been greatly +assisted by the taleb in obtaining information, and we +had passed many long hours together. The taleb is a +man of about fifty, extremely clever, and a pretty good +scholar, and had formerly kept a school. Now he did +nothing but calculate the water distribution or irrigation +of the gardens. He wished to come with me to England, +to work at translations and get a little fortune for his +family. But whenever I told him that there were very +learned Arabic scholars in England and France, he<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-377" id="V1-377"></a>[<a href="images/1-377.png">377</a>]</span> +always answered, "They are concealed Moslems;" that +is to say, afraid to confess Mahomet before the Christians, +or seeking to convert Christians. From time to +time I gave the taleb a few presents and a little money, +as also the turjeman. This latter was a very different +character. He mended skin bags for water, made shoes, +white-washed houses, worked in the gardens, and made +himself generally useful. He had some property, and +his garden, the heritage of his ancestors, was one of the +finest in the country. He was honest, but his defect +was want of moral courage. The turjeman had lived a +good while in Tunis, with some French, where he learned +his Italian, and a few French words. He always said, +"When I lived with the Christians, I drank wine like +them." Some of the people, in a joke, would call him a +Christian. He was a bad scholar, and very bitter against +the Wahabites, whom he delighted to picture to himself +in the pleasing predicament of carrying the Jews to hellfire +on their backs. I myself one day had a quarrel with +a Wahabite. The Wahabite called me a kafer. I retorted, +"Why, what are you? You are nothing but a +Wahabite." He was so angry that he was about to draw +his knife at me, when the people seized hold of him, and +one of my friends knocked him down.</p> + +<p>Rais heard of the affair, and said as he was a foreign +Arab he should leave the oasis. He came afterwards to +me to beg my pardon, and I gave him some coffee to +make him merry. He then told me all about the Wahabites, +not forgetting to abuse all the other sects. He +said the Arabs of his mountain had no objection to the +Turks if they would become Wahabites. He was also of +the Abadeeah, "white-caps," and declaimed against the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-378" id="V1-378"></a>[<a href="images/1-378.png">378</a>]</span> +"red"-capped Wahabites. The controversy is as nearly as +possible the same as that of our white and black-gowned +clergy of the Established Church, introduced by the +Puseyites.</p> + +<p>Begin now to have some trouble with Said. He gets +sulky and saucy, and sometimes says he will stop in +Ghadames and eat dates. I am obliged to box his ears. +Then he gets very frightened at the Touaricks, and begins +to blubber, "I shall be made a slave again, and you yourself +will be killed." Then he would complain that the +Rais's servants and slaves had better clothes than himself. +I always found it was the better way to let him +have a <i>sfogo</i>, or "vent," for his temper, and afterwards +he was himself again. He never could keep a <i>para</i> in +his pocket, but would give his money to the first person +who would ask him for it. I am obliged to buy him +snuff every week, and a stock for the journey. With +this he is accustomed to treat everybody, and is therefore +very popular. Even the Governor thinks him the +best Negro he ever knew. As is natural enough, he is a +great favourite amongst the Negresses, and even amongst +the Touarick ladies. I found him crying one day, and +asked,—</p> + +<p>"Said, what's the matter?"</p> + +<p>"I now recollect my wife whom I left in Jerba," he +sighed out.</p> + +<p>Before this, I didn't know he was married; he was +about thirty years of age. My turjeman and Said were +two great cronies, and they discussed all the town's +affairs in general, and everybody's affairs in particular. +At first, I had not the remotest idea Said had so much +wit, and was pleased to hear his remarks and criticisms.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-379" id="V1-379"></a>[<a href="images/1-379.png">379</a>]</span> +One of these was capital, and had a particular reference +to his own case. He stared at me, observing, "We +can't put the slave-trade down whilst the Jews in Tripoli +lend the merchants here goods to carry it on." He was +so fond of the turjeman that, on leaving Ghadames, he +gave him all the money he had, and said to me when I +scolded him, "We don't want any money in The Desert," +adding, "Where are the shops?<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: added missing quotation mark">"</ins></p> + +<p><i>23rd.</i>—Bought a camel this morning, a <i>nagah</i>, ‮ناقه‬, +or "she-camel," for 25 dollars. Rais would have the +honour of choosing the camel, but it was scarcely worth +the money. I hired another camel to carry a portion of +the baggage. Rais told me the Pasha had offered to +the Touaricks to equip an expedition, in conjunction +with them, against the Shânbah, but the Touaricks would +not accept of the aid, being determined to fight their +own battles in their own way. They might have +thought that after the Pasha had destroyed the +Shânbah, he would have turned his arms against them.</p> + +<p><i>24th.</i>—We are all confusion in getting off. It is late +in the afternoon. I have loaded the nagah, and disposed +of my baggage; I have bid a hundred people +farewell, shaking them by the hands. We are surrounded +with the whole male population of the city, and +half-caste women. Rais is galloping about to see the +people off. But a group of people is now seen forming +rapidly round a man and a boy, and a camel just come +in from The Desert with a load of wood, "What's the +matter?" "The Shânbah! the Shânbah!" people +shout from detachment to detachment of the ghafalah. +The confusion of parting is succeeded by the terror and +rushing back of the people. The advanced party<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-380" id="V1-380"></a>[<a href="images/1-380.png">380</a>]</span> +abruptly returns upon the party immediately behind it, +and all rush back to the gates of the city, one running +over the other<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads ','">.</ins> Rais appears amongst them to calm the +consternation. "What's the matter?" His Excellency +is too much agitated to answer the question. I find +Sheik Makouran. "What's the matter?" "The man +and the boy just come in saw twenty-five Shânbah +mounted on camels, and the ghafalah cannot go. Rais +is going to send out a scout, a <i>Senawanee</i>, to see if it be +the Shânbah, and then all the people are to arm and go +out against the robbers." A pretty kettle of fish, +thought I. The Governor then sent a man down to me, +to come and sleep for the night in his house. All the +merchants return, but the camels and a few men remain +outside, close by the gate. A number of soldiers are +sent round the city, and the <i>Senawanee</i> mounted on a +maharee, goes off in the direction where the Shânbah had +been seen, the Rais accompanying him a short distance. +On his return, the Rais bitterly complained of the merchants +not furnishing him immediately with camels. +It was some time before he could get the scout off. I +went up a mound outside of the city to see the scout "out +of sight." As the white form of the maharee was disappearing +in the glare of the sand, I admired the bravery +of the Senawanee, who thus defied single-handed a troop +of robbers, bearding them in their very ambush.</p> + +<p>We waited with intense anxiety the return of the +scout. Many people got upon the walls to look out. +At length, at noon the 25th, a single camel was +descried on the dull red glare of the Saharan horizon. +This was the Senawanee. A number of people ran to +him. "Where are the Shânbah?" "Where?" "Shânbah?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-381" id="V1-381"></a>[<a href="images/1-381.png">381</a>]</span> +The messenger said nothing—he was dumb. A crowd +gets round him—he's still dumb. He enters the Rais's +hall of conference, and squats down in the presence of +his Excellency. He speaks now, and calls for coffee. +The Rais gets furiously agitated at the moment of breaking +silence. The scout very calmly sips off his coffee, +and strokes down his beard, and then deigned to satisfy +Governor, Kady, officers, and the men, women, and +children, who were now pressing upon him with dreadful +agitation. "Oh, Bey! (raising himself from the floor, +fixing his eyes now on the Bey, and now on the people, +and putting his fore-finger of the right hand on the +thumb of the left)—I went to the sand. I got there +when the sun was gone down. The camel lay down, +and so did I lay down on the sand. We watched all +night. I fear no one but God!—(Here was a general +hum of approbation.)—Two hours before the <i>fidger</i>, +(break of day) I looked up and saw pass by me, at a +distance of from here to The Spring, nine <i>Bughar</i> (wild-bullocks). +They came and went, and went and came, +snuffing up the sand and bellowing. The man and the +boy, who cut the wood yesterday, saw the <i>Bughar</i>. +But the wild oxen are not the Shânbah!" As soon as he +mentioned the <i>Bughar</i>, the people rushing out of the +Bey's apartment, ran away, and before I could get my +dinner, a portion of the ghafalah was on the move. +The Rais said to me, "Get off, make haste—make +haste." I then went down to load the nagah again, but +found it very difficult; seeing the other camels passing +on, she would not stop to be laden. At length my +turjeman came and arranged all. Said observed that the +obstinacy of the nagah was a bad omen. His Excel<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-382" id="V1-382"></a>[<a href="images/1-382.png">382</a>]</span>lency +the Governor came to see me off, and gave me an +affectionate shake of the hands. I then met his confidential +man Abd-Errahman, who said to me, "Rais has +given you in charge of all the people of the ghafalah, +(about sixty persons"). This was kind of the Governor, +and better, perhaps, than being in the charge of one +individual. But still I couldn't help thinking, that +what is many persons' business is nobody's business. +The turjeman accompanied us some distance, chatting +with Said. He carried with him a quantity of date-tree +fibrous netting, and was twisting bands as he followed +us. We soon parted. I then passed my old friend the +good-natured Arab doctor. His parting blessing spoke +the native goodness of his heart: "Day cool, route wide, +route Fezzan, ghafalah large, Shânbah there are none—God +bless you, farewell!"</p> + +<p>I began to breathe at once the free air of the open +Desert. As is my wont, I now committed my spirit to +the care of God Almighty, leaving my body to the care of +the wild tribes of these inhospitable wastes. And why +not? Why distrust them? Have not the people hitherto +treated me with great and unexpected kindness? And +is it not the first step to make strangers your enemies, to +distrust them?</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-58" id="FoN_1-58"></a><a href="#FNa_1-58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> They call all other languages in the world <i>Ajem</i>—‮عجم‬—a distinction +like that of Jew and Gentile, only applied to language +instead of persons.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-59" id="FoN_1-59"></a><a href="#FNa_1-59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> Sale says:—"Mahomet here and elsewhere frequently imitates +the truly inspired writers, in making God to operate on the +minds of reprobates, to prevent their conversion." Impostors in all +ages have charged the inefficacy of their novel mysteries upon the +will of God. But these passages have had their use and humanity +effects in the strife of contending religions. A Mahometan bigot, +with sword in one hand and victim in the other, has often spared +his life and his conversion by recollecting, "<i>God had sealed up his +heart and his hearing</i>," so that he could not believe. The pride of +the Moslem has also thus been content to leave matters in the hands +of a predestinating deity.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-60" id="FoN_1-60"></a><a href="#FNa_1-60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> "Wild bullock:" The <i>Bos Brachyceras</i>, Gray.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-61" id="FoN_1-61"></a><a href="#FNa_1-61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> Turbans are sent to Mecca to be blest there, and by this blessing +of course their value is greatly enhanced amongst the Moumeneen. +Shrouds are also blessed at Mecca; and a rich Mahometan +endeavours to procure one to wrap up his mortal remains. A considerable +trade is carried on in blessed garments.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-383" id="V1-383"></a>[<a href="images/1-383.png">383</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<h3>FROM GHADAMES TO GHAT.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Character of the People of Ghadames.—Strength of our Caravan.—First +features of the new Route.—Well of Maseen.—Rate of +Travelling.—Our Ghafalah divides in two on account of the +difficulty of obtaining Water for so large a Caravan.—<i>Es-Sărāb</i>, +or <i>The Mirage</i>.—<i>Gobemouche</i> Politicians.—Camels, fond +of dry Bones.—Geological Features of Plateau.—Desert Tombs +and <i>Tumuli</i> Directors.—Intense cold of The Desert.—Well of +Nather.—Savage Disposition of Camels.—Mr. Fletcher's advice +to Desert Tourists.—No scientific instruments with me.—False +alarm of Banditti, and meet a Caravan of Slaves.—Sight of the +first tree after seven days' Desert.—Wells of Mislah in a region +of Sand.—Vulgar error of Sand-storms overwhelming Caravans +with billows of Sand.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mounted</span> on my camel, pressing on through The +Desert, my thoughts still lag behind, and as I turn often +to look back upon The City of Merchants and Marabouts, +its palms being only now visible in the dingy red of the +setting sun, I endeavour to form a correct opinion of +its singular inhabitants. I see in them the mixture of +the religious and commercial character, blended in a +most extraordinary manner and degree, for here the possession +of wealth scarcely interferes with the highest +state of <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'asectic'">ascetic</ins> devotion. To a religious scrupulousness, +which is alarmed at a drop of medicine that is prohibited +falling upon their clothes, they add the most +enterprising and determined spirit of commercial enterprise, +plunging into The Desert, often in companies of +only two or three, when infested with bandits and cut-<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-384" id="V1-384"></a>[<a href="images/1-384.png">384</a>]</span>throats, +their journies the meanwhile extending from the +shores of the Mediterranean to the banks of the Niger, +as low down to the Western Coast as Noufee and +Rabbah. But their resignation to the will of heaven is +without a parallel. No murmur escapes them under the +severest domestic affliction; whilst prayer is their daily +bread. Besides five times a day, they never omit the +extraordinary occasions. The aspirations of the older +and retired men continue all the live-long day; this +incense of the soul, rising before the altar of the Eternal, +is a fire which is never extinguished in Ghadames! Their +commercial habits naturally beget caution, if not fear. +In The Desert, though armed, they have no courage to +fight. Their arms are their mysterious playthings. Their +genius is pacific and to make peace—they are the peacemakers +of The Desert—and they always travel under +the intrepid escort of their warlike Touarick friends and +neighbours. Intelligent, instructed and industrious, they +are the greatest friends of civilization in North Africa +and the Great Desert. But upon such a people, falls as +a blast of lightning, rending and shivering the fairest +palm of the oasis, the curse of Turkish rule.</p> + +<p>The force of our caravan consists of about eighty +people, including strangers, and two hundred laden +camels. Nearly all the people are armed, and some +single individuals have two or three matchlocks, besides +pistols and daggers. The character of the people are +petty traders, commission agents, camel-drivers, and +slaves. There are several Arabs, natives of Ghadames, +Seenawan, and Derge, and five strangers from Souf. +We have with us also three Touaricks. There may be +half-a-dozen low women and female slaves distributed<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-385" id="V1-385"></a>[<a href="images/1-385.png">385</a>]</span> +amongst the ghafalah. Respectable females scarcely +ever travel in The Desert. I have only with me my +negro servant Said. My large trunk and tent are conveyed +by another camel; the nagah carries me, the provisions, +and the rest of the baggage, going extremely +well. Said walks with the servants, slaves, and camel-drivers. +Two-thirds of the people are on foot. Started +in tolerably good health and spirits, and increase my +appetite every mile I ride. Feel no fatigue, of course, +to-day, and trust I shall soon forget I'm travelling in +The Sahara. There are many routes from Ghadames to +Ghat, no less than four or five well-travelled desert +tracts. Our present one is the more easterly, being +skirted by the oasisian districts of Fezzan. None of +these routes have been travelled before by an European. +Our course to-day is directly east. We are now encamping +at sun-set, and we have just lost sight of the palms +of Ghadames. Alas! this will, I fear, be an everlasting +farewell to the beautiful oasis, and the holy city of +merchants.</p> + +<p><i>26th.</i>—Rose before sunrise. Morning cool and refreshing. +We are to continue ten days in the route of +Fezzan, then turn into that of Ghat, thus describing +a sort of semicircle to get out of the forays of the +Shânbah.</p> + +<p>Course south-east. On the right ranges of low dull +hills, with the same on the left, but at a greater distance. +The road very good, fit for carriages, through the broad +bed of a valley. Two great blocks of rock stand out on +the surface which we traverse, one an oblong square, the +other sugar-loaf, but flattened at the top.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-386" id="V1-386"></a>[<a href="images/1-386.png">386</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>Camel-drivers.</i>—"Look at these brothers" (the two +rocks.)</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"How! Are these brothers? They are +not much like."</p> + +<p><i>Camel-drivers.</i>—"Yâkob, don't you know that one +brother is born like the father, and the other like the +mother?"</p> + +<p>These huge blocks we had long in view, and approached +and passed them just as a ship passes rocks on +the sea-coast. So steady is our progress, so level our +route. Ground strewn over with small flints and other +sharp chips of stone. Saw nothing alive in The Desert +but one solitary bird, which seemed lost in the illimitable +waste. Passed the grave of one who had died in open +desert, a small tumulus of stones marked the sad spot; +passed also a few white-bleached camel's bones. Very +cold, wind from north-east. Feel it more than the +keenest winter's blast of Old England. Feel glad I took +the advice of the Governor of Ghadames, and purchased +a quantity of warm woollen clothing, heik, bornouse, +and jibbah. "That route (Ghat) kills people with the +cold," his Excellency observed.</p> + +<p><i>27th.</i>—Arrived at the well of Maseen, at 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> +Much the same scenery as yesterday. The road good, +not quite so stony as yesterday, and scattered over with +pieces of very fine quartz and shining felspar. No sand +in quantity, and a little herbage for camels. Wind as +yesterday, but more of it. Maseen is a tolerably deep +well, but the water is not very sweet. About it there +are three or four stunted date-palms, and several shrubby +sprouts, pointing the Saharan wayfarer to the well's site.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-387" id="V1-387"></a>[<a href="images/1-387.png">387</a>]</span> +One of the trees bore fruit this year, but the palm rarely +bears fruit in open desert. No bird or animal of any +sort seen to-day. The camels crop herbage <i>en route</i> as +usual. On the whole, however, we proceed pretty quickly. +I imagine about three miles the hour, for a man must +walk a sharp pace to keep up well with the camels. +Our people eat nothing in the morning; two or three, +perhaps, may eat a cake and a few dates. They literally +fast all day long and take their <i>one</i> meal at about seven +in the evening. I can't support this, and take tea in the +morning, besides munching dates at intervals through the +day. Nay, I feel ravenous, under the influence of the +bleak air of The Desert. About an hour before sunrise +all the people get up and make large fires, warming their +feet and legs, for these are mostly bare and are very +sensible to the cold. I'm sorry I've been obliged to +scold Said twice, once for running away from my camel +after other people's, and once for rough and saucy language. +But I must make the best of him; might easily +get a worse servant. Glad the eldest son of the Sheikh +Makouran has joined the caravan; he came riding after +us this evening, attended with a Touarick, both mounted +on maharees, well equipped and capable of scouring The +Desert.</p> + +<p><i>28th.</i>—Some time before we got off this morning, on +account of the difficulty of watering the camels. My +nagah started off on the route of Fezzan about a mile +and a half, and Said went another way in search of her. +I was, therefore, obliged to fetch her myself, which was a +considerable run through a hilly region. I found her +alone wandering about. The she-camel strays more +than the male-camel, and is more restless. As soon as I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-388" id="V1-388"></a>[<a href="images/1-388.png">388</a>]</span> +called to her she stopped, stood stock-still, and looked +at me. Before the camels were all watered, the well of +Mazeen was nearly dry and the water muddy. This is +the reason large caravans have such difficulty in traversing +The Desert, it often requiring several days to +water a thousand camels. Here I recollected the justness +of Napoleon's observation cited by French writers,—"That +if Africa is to be invaded and conquered <i>viâ</i> The +Great Desert, it must be done by small detached parties." +For it is not that the wells do not afford a sufficiency +of water for large caravans, but that they do not yield +an immediate supply for numerous bodies, so as to +enable their people to march in one compact whole. +Here we were obliged to leave half the caravan, waiting +for the running of the water, thus miserably dividing +our strength in case of attack. Noticed one of the +camels laden with a bale of goods, on which were +European writing, viz., I. A. <span class="smcap">n.</span> 6. The great merchants +usually write the name of their firm under the designation +of <i>Oulad</i> (‮اولاد‬) "sons," for example, <i>Oulad +Makouran</i>, "Sons of Makouran."</p> + +<p>The advanced party, of which I was, unexpectedly +left the route of Fezzan to the east, and turned sharp +round to the south, through the gorge of a low mountain +range, which we had had all along to the right. In +this defile we proceeded an hour, but it had no natural +opening at the end. We came at last to a very abrupt +ascent of some hundred feet high, and mounted an elevated +plateau. Once on the plateau, all was plain as +far as the eye could see. The defile was tertiary formation, +mere dull crumbling limestone; nothing in the +shape and consistence of granite. We are now on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-389" id="V1-389"></a>[<a href="images/1-389.png">389</a>]</span> +highway for Ghat, and it is said we shall arrive in fifteen +days from the plateau. Saw on the plateau, for the +first time of my life, the celebrated mirage, which our +people call <i>Watta</i>, but the classic Arabic is <i>Es-Sarab</i> +(‮السّرب‬). At first sight, I thought it was salt, for it +flamed in the sun white, like a salt-pit, or lagoon. +There appeared some low hills in the midst of the white +lake. As we proceeded, I saw what appeared like white +foam running from east to west, as the sea-surf chafing +the shore. It then occurred to me that this might be the +mirage; and so it turned out, for as we approached the +phenomenon, it retired and disappeared. The character +of the mirage was evidently affected by the wind, for the +foam appeared to run from east to west with the wind. +In some of the white flaming lakes, shrubs and reeds +stood out, as we find in shallow pools. Some high hills +appeared suspended in the air, veritable "castles in the +air." The weather was dull, the sun sometimes hidden, +and it was noon when the phenomena were most observable. +At Mazeen a few small birds were hopping and +chirping, and two large crows followed us upon the plateau; +also a butterfly and a few flies. These are the +living creatures noticed to-day.</p> + +<p>The plateau, where I now write, is either covered with +very small stones, some quite black, and others calcined +or burnt, like brick-bats thrown from a kiln, or is altogether +hardened and black earthy soil. The latter +assists the mirage, for the phenomenon appears mostly +on the earthy tracts of ground. In some parts is herbage +for the camels. On the plateau we saw several small +mounds of soft brown stone, crumbling to earth, which<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-390" id="V1-390"></a>[<a href="images/1-390.png">390</a>]</span> +looked like Arab hovels at a distance. I went up to +undeceive myself. These curious mounds have yet to +crumble away before the plateau is a perfect plane. +Course to-day mostly south, with a leaning to the west. +Wind cold S.E. and E. The day as dull and dreary +as in England. Our people occasionally mount the +maharees, which look very haughty and imposing. A +maharee would be a noble present for the Sultan of the +Touaricks to send to the Queen.</p> + +<p>Was surprised this morning at a question, as "To +whom Tripoli belonged?" to the English or the Sultan +(of Constantinople). I find there is a vague notion +amongst our ghafalah that Tripoli is either really the +property of the English, or under the immediate protection +of England. "Just the same," say the people. +They prefer the late tyrant Bashaw, Asker Ali, to the +present Mehemet, because Asker Ali, they say, did not +fleece them so much or so plunder them of their money. +'Tis natural enough. One of the lower fellows had the +impudence to say, "The English Consul receives bribes +from Mehemet Pasha to let him remain in Tripoli." +These people are great gobemouches; they always report +the most incredible things. A trader said to me, "When +you get to Soudan you must marry two wives; this is +our custom." I replied, "I never do anything out of my +country, and apart from my countrymen, which I should +be ashamed to do at home in their presence." Some of +these Desert louts are very familiar and insolent, and +require sharp answers to keep them at a distance. I +must not forget to mention, the Rais put my passport +<i>en règle</i> for Soudan. A more monstrous piece of absurdity +could not be attempted against the virtue of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-391" id="V1-391"></a>[<a href="images/1-391.png">391</a>]</span> +free and simple-minded children of The Desert. Such +documents are only fit for our elevated Christian civilization, +for countries like Naples, France, and Austria, the +hot-beds of spies and police. When I showed my passport +to the Touaricks, and explained to them what it +was for, they very indignantly (and properly so) spat +on it.</p> + +<p><i>29th.</i>—Not a living creature was met with to-day. +Our camels found the "dry bones" of camels perished in +The Desert; they munched them with gusto, a piece of +cannibalism on the part of these melancholy creatures +which I was not prepared for. Dr. Oudney remarks, +"The latter (camels) are very fond of chewing dried +bones." In some parts of the routes, mostly where the +water-stations are distant, and where they drop from +exhaustion before reaching the wells, camels' bones lie in +such heaps as to suggest, the Vision of the Dry Bones of +Ezekiel.</p> + +<p>We started with the rising sun and continued till four +o'clock <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> A strong S. and S.E. wind blew all day, +and very cold, parching my lips and mouth. This wind +would have a veritable burning simoon in the summer! +We traversed all day the plateau, now become an immeasurable +plain. It slightly undulates in parts, but I +think we continued to ascend. Some of the surface is +wholly naked, having neither herbage or stones scattered +about, being of a softish clayey soil, and printed in little +diamond squares, like the dry bottom of a small lake on +the sea-shore. This, I doubt not, is the action of the +rain, which falls at long intervals. Other parts presented +the usual black calcined stones, and sometimes pieces of +the common limestone and pebbles, but not very round.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-392" id="V1-392"></a>[<a href="images/1-392.png">392</a>]</span> +The track was in some places well-defined, in others the +earth so hard as not to admit of the impression of the +camel's foot. Passed by several tumuli of stones, said +by the people to mark the route, and called <i>âlam</i>—‮علم‬—directors. +Passed also a conspicuous tomb of some +distinguished individual, who had died in the open +Desert. There was no writing or ornament, only a higher +heap of stones, and piled in the shape of an oblong +square. As soon as a traveller dies he is buried, if he +have companions; the body is never brought to the +neighbouring oases. My friend Haj-el-Besheer, to my +regret, has disappeared with the Touarick.</p> + +<p>Nothing possibly could be more horrible and dreary, +exhibiting the very "palpable obscure," than our course +of to-day. As far as the eye can stretch on every side +is one vast, solitary, lifeless, treeless expanse of desert +earth! It is a—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">"Dreary [plain] forlorn and wild,</span> +<span class="i0">The seat of desolation."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>A Derge Arab said to me this evening, "The English +will never come to Derge, wherever else they may go. +The climate will kill them; in three days you will die of +fever." The love of discussion, as well as their complaints +against the Turkish Government, follow our +people through The Desert. They are trying to make +me turn Mohammedan, as far as disputing goes, and I +have enough to do to get rid of their importunities. +Sometimes I get the conversation turned by telling them, +if I turn Mussulman I shall offend my Sultan. They +reply, "Oh! you can confess with your lips, that you +are a Christian, whilst you remain a Mussulman in your<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-393" id="V1-393"></a>[<a href="images/1-393.png">393</a>]</span> +heart." One fellow got saucy, and said, turning up the +fire with a stick, "The Jews and Christians will have +this (fire) for ever." Threatening to report him to the +Rais of Ghadames, he exclaimed, "The dog Rais has +no rule in The Sahara." The other people made him hold +his tongue. Felt the cold last night but especially this +morning. It nips me up severely. Sleep in the clothes +I wear during the day, and have additional covering of +a thick rug and a cloak. We pitch no tents. Very +little water is now drunk. Our people seem to shun it +as mad dogs. As to the morning, no one drinks water +this time of the day. How different to the summer! +when a drink of water is sometimes reckoned a great +favour, an immense boon, a heaven's best gift.</p> + +<p><i>30th.</i>—A fine morning; the dawn almost cloudless. +Not so yesterday, volumes of cloud on cloud inflamed +with purple stretched over all the east, not unlike an +English summer's dawn, but the colours more vivid. But +this was succeeded by the dreariest of days. In summer, +the Saharan dawn is usually cloudless, and offers no +beautiful variety of colours. The cloud of yesterday +was surcharged with wind, which we soon felt to our +annoyance. In The Desert the wind generally rises in +the morning and falls in the evening. We continued +our course over the vast plain all the morning, but at +midday it broke into wide shallow valleys, and in the +evening it was cut across by a large broad valley, or +wady, as the Moors called it, stretching east and west. +In this wady lies the well of <i>Năthār</i> or <i>Năjār</i>, +some spelling the name with the ‮ز‬—‮النزار‬. Here we encamp. +We had come a very long weary day. Begin to feel +very sensibly the hardships of Desert travelling. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-394" id="V1-394"></a>[<a href="images/1-394.png">394</a>]</span> +length of a day's journey depends upon whether water +is near or far off, and also upon there being fodder for +camels. Our Arabs are obliged to look out lest they +encamp upon an arid spot where the poor camel cannot +crop a single herb. Mostly in the beds—dry beds of +these wadys—there is some herbage and brushwood. +The well of Nathar is very deep, and cut through rock +as well as earth, but its water is extremely sweet and +delicious. We usually find the best water running +through rocky soil. <i>En route</i>, I observed no living +creature, save a grasshopper, which had managed to get +into existence amidst these herbless wilds. Think I also +saw an ant near the foot of the camel. A few flies still +follow our caravan, which we brought from Ghadames. +These witless things have wisdom enough not to remain +behind and perish in The Desert. Passed by two dead +camels, fast decomposing into bones. Road all small +stones sprinkled over an earthy soil, or altogether earth. +Mirage again seen, with similar phenomena. Small islets +in the midst of lakes, and white foam running on the +ground as on the sea-shore. Our course S. and S.E.</p> + +<p><i>1st December.</i>—A fine mild morning, but intensely +cold during the past night. Here we took fresh water +enough for four days, the time required to arrive at the +next well. Started about 11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and continued only +three hours and a half, when we came to another wady, +where we stopped in order to let the camels have their +fill of the rich fodder with which the wady is covered. +The plateau is now apparently disappearing, for it is +broken into deep and broad valleys, from the sides of +which rise in groups, and at various distances, low ranges +of Saharan hills, and on one side, is a range very high,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-395" id="V1-395"></a>[<a href="images/1-395.png">395</a>]</span> +having very wild mountainous features. We have now +travelled nearly six days, and have not yet met with +fifty yards of sandy route. So much for the sandy +Desert! All is either earth, sometimes as hard-baked as +stone, or large blocks of stone, but chiefly very small +chips of stone covering the entire surface. Our Arabs +ask me, "Whether I prefer travelling by land or sea?" +They imagine Christians, when they travel, necessarily +travel by sea. They are also greatly astonished when I +tell them we have no Sahara in England, and cannot +credit the idea of a country being full of cultivated fields +and gardens. The rest of our ghafalah, consisting of +more than a third, is not yet come up, but Haj-el-Besheer +and the Touarick Ali have joined us again and +report them to be at the well of Nather.</p> + +<p>Two or three birds were seen this morning about the +wells. They were excessively familiar, and knew instinctively +how to estimate the sight of a caravan for +the crumbs and grains it might leave behind. They +seemed also quite at home at the well. Still one would +think they were birds of passage, like ourselves, for there +are no trees or bushes for them to build in, and little to +eat. Saw also a single lizard. I believe lizards abound +in every part of The Sahara, but the cold now keeps +them in their holes.</p> + +<p>Three or four of our party have left us, mounted on +maharees, for Ghat. They say they shall arrive in six +or seven days. They will soon see if banditti are before +us, and will return to let us know. Thought I should +escape the orthodox <i>body</i>-guard. But it seems not. +Where every person is obliged to accept of this guard, +<i>bon gré, malgré</i>, it seems I must submit. However, I shall<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-396" id="V1-396"></a>[<a href="images/1-396.png">396</a>]</span> +do without their services if possible. I offended a Moor +by telling him that Christians do not require it, and have +not this guard: it is only "peculiar to Mussulmans." A +necessary part of the occupation of a ghafalah when it +reaches a well is collecting and cracking the vermin. The +camels are terrible things for straying. If they are surrounded +with immense patches of the most choice herbage, +even which is their delicium, they still keep on straying the +more over it miles and miles. As to our nagah, we are +obliged to tie her fore-feet, which prevents the camel +from getting at a very great distance from the encampment. +The camels are sly, unimpassioned, and deliberately +savage, one to another, more especially the +males. At times they go steadily, and even slowly, +behind one another, and turning the neck and head sideways, +deliberately bite one another's haunches most +ferociously. The drivers immediately separate them, for +the bite is dangerous to their health, and often attended +with serious mischief to the animal bitten. But I have +never yet seen a camel kick or attack a man. They invariably +grumble and growl, sometimes most piteously, +when they are being loaded, as if deprecating the heavy +burden about to be placed upon them, and appealing to +the mercy of their masters. The merchants pay 13½ +Tunisian piastres per cantar for goods now conveyed +from Ghadames to Ghat. The Touaricks carry goods +cheaper, but they are now gone after the Shânbah. The +Arabs asked 25, but the Rais of Ghadames fixed it at +13½. A camel carries from 2 to 3½ cantars<a name="FNa_1-62" id="FNa_1-62"></a><a href="#FoN_1-62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a>. I confess +I was sorry to see these apparently so quiet and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-397" id="V1-397"></a>[<a href="images/1-397.png">397</a>]</span> +melancholy creatures ferocious to one another; but I +recollected that all animals, even doves, quarrel and +fight, and particularly males, where females are concerned.</p> + +<p>To-day took out of my trunk Mr. Fletcher's note to +me, to read over, which I had received from Malta +during the time of my being in The Desert. The advice +to travellers which it contains in a very few words, is so +good, so excellent, that I shall take the liberty of transcribing +it here, for the benefit of all future tourists in +The Desert.</p> + +<p>1st. "Keep a sharp look out about you, and pick up +information."</p> + +<p>2nd. "Keep with Sheiks, Religionists, (he means I +suppose, Marabouts,) and Chieftains, for these are the +only people who can give you protection."</p> + +<p>3rd. "Expose yourself to no unnecessary risks and +dangers."</p> + +<p>4th. "Conciliate!"</p> + +<p>Mr. Fletcher adds, "The white man is at the mercy +of every tenant of The Desert, and though we would, +one cannot be all things to all men." Nevertheless, I +do think, <i>poverty</i> is my great protection in travelling in +these countries. My fellow-travellers, up to the present +time, are civil and assist me. It is necessary to mention +here, I have neither compass nor thermometer, nor +measure of any kind, nor maps, nor watch, so that I'm +afraid my journal will sound ill to scientific ears. This +was very bad management. Still we shall see what a +man can do without the ordinary and most common +scientific instruments of travelling. I have, however, +an hour-glass, which embraces four hours in the time of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-398" id="V1-398"></a>[<a href="images/1-398.png">398</a>]</span> +emptying, and which I found useful in Ghadames, but +make no use of it <i>en route</i>. I consider the objects of +my tour <i>moral</i>, a random effort to maim, or kill, or +cripple the Monster Slavery, a small rough stone picked +up casually from the burnt and arid face of The Desert, +but with dauntless hand thrown at this Titanian fabric of +crime and wickedness. However, as my friend Mr. +Fletcher advises, it does not prevent me from "picking +up information," any how and everywhere, which I trust +the reader will have already perceived. As a person +who loses one sense acquires more intensity in others, so +I, having no artificial means for procuring information +with me, must do all by the ordinary senses of observation, +common to the civilized man and the savage.</p> + +<p>The mirage was very abundant to-day, producing a +variety of splendid phenomena, "<i>Castelli in Spagna</i>," +running streams, and silvery lakes, and a thousand +things of water, and air, and landscape, just types of those +pleasures and delights which we seek, and when grasping +them, they slip from between our fingers.</p> + +<p>Whilst we were encamped, two hours before sun-set, we +were suddenly alarmed by the cries of banditti and +Shânbah, and all were called upon to arm. At the same +time people were sent off to bring up the camels which +were grazing and straying at a distance. I was amusing +myself with cooking the supper, and started up, not +knowing what to make of it; I couldn't however help +laughing at the queer predicament in which the supper +looked, and thought I had been making it for the Shânbah. +Running forward to see the cause of the alarm, I +saw in the south, dimly at a distance, a small caravan +approaching us. There were three or four camels, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-399" id="V1-399"></a>[<a href="images/1-399.png">399</a>]</span> +several persons on foot. I then thought I must look +about for a weapon of some sort. A man gave me a +huge horse-pistol, and with this I sallied forth to take +part in the common defence. Seeing an Arab far in +advance, and alone, I went after him, who turned out to +be one of the Souafah, whose acquaintance I had already +made. This Arab certainly showed considerable bravery, +and took up a reconnoitring position on a rising ground, +looking with a steady and determined eye upon the approaching +caravan. He turned to me and said bluffly, +"It must be a Touarick ghafalah." Meanwhile, about +forty people all armed, assembled <i>pêle-mêle</i> on the opposite +side of the route, on a hill behind, uttering wild +cries, and throwing up their matchlocks into the air. +The cries now ceased, and was succeeded by a most +anxious silence, all waiting a closer observation. At +length, the experienced eye of our people discovered +what was considered a troop of bandits on foot, to be a +caravan of slaves. And immediately a number of the +people ran off violently to meet the slave-caravan, which +was escorted by our own Touaricks, the slaves being the +property of our people. Our surprise was the greater +when we found Haj-el-Besheer, and his companion the +Touarick, returning with the caravan, which had brought +letters for all the people. So the bandits turned out to +be our friends and neighbours; and so burst this bubble +of alarm. I observed two persons with long staffs +lagging behind, and imagined them old men labouring +along the route. What was my astonishment to find, as +they approached, these old men gradually transformed +into poor little children—child-slaves—crawling over the +ground, scarcely able to move. Oh, what a curse is<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-400" id="V1-400"></a>[<a href="images/1-400.png">400</a>]</span> +slavery! how full of hard-heartedness and cruelty! As +soon as the poor slaves arrived, they set to work and +made a fire. Some of them were laden with wood when +they came up. The fire was their only protection from +the cold, the raw bitter cold of the night, for they were +nearly naked. I require as much as three ordinary great +coats, besides the usual clothing of the day, to keep me +warm in the night; these poor things, the chilly children +of the tropics, have only a rag to cover them, and a bit +of fire to warm them. I shall never forget the sparkling +eyes of delight of one of the poor little boys, as he sat +down and looked into the crackling glaring fire of desert +scrub. In the evening I noticed the amount of the food +which was given as the one daily meal to these famished +creatures, ten in number. Said usually eats more than +the whole of it for his supper. The food was barley-meal +mixed with water. The slaves were children and +youths, all males. They had been already fourteen days +<i>en route</i> from Ghat, and would be eight more before they +could reach Ghadames. By that time, like the last +slaves which arrived whilst I was there, they would be +simply "living skeletons." The misery is, these slaves +are conducted not by their masters, but slave-drivers, at +so much per head, and consequently the conductors feed +the slaves on as little as possible, to make the most of +their bargain with the owners. The slave-caravan, however, +brought us good news.</p> + +<p>The Shânbah, after ravaging the Touarick districts, +had fled their own country, and taken refuge in the +Algerian territory—so escaping the vengeance of the +Touaricks. We have, therefore, no enemy <i>en route</i>, +thank God, except ourselves, and our own quarrels,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-401" id="V1-401"></a>[<a href="images/1-401.png">401</a>]</span> +which occur but seldom. The annual winter Soudan +caravan had not yet arrived in Ghat, but was expected +every day. It is worth mentioning here, as a remarkable +trait of good faith amongst the Moors and Arabs, that +they do not often seal their letters, but fold them up as +we do notes of trifling import. All the letters brought +to-day were unsealed, and did not require <i>Grahamizing</i>. +Haj-el-Besheer told me it was <i>haram</i> ("prohibited,") for +strangers to read these unsealed letters. My readers +will see that we are again obliged to go to the barbarians +of The Desert to learn the ordinary practices of good +faith and morality. How exceedingly rejoiced would be +the "<i>Haute Police</i>" of <i>civilized</i> Europe to have all +letters sent <i>un</i>-sealed through the Post Office! What a +pity these Mahometan barbarians are so trusting and +simple-minded! What a pity our boasted religion does +not teach us Christians the honesty of barbarians! We +wrote letters to Ghadames and Tripoli over the fire-light. +Afterwards my friend Haj-el-Besheer commenced a sing-song +repetition of a Marabout legend, which he continued +all the evening, speaking to no one; even whilst he was +eating he continued his rigmarole story to himself, the +people taking no notice of him. I was greatly amused at +this odd singing to one's self.</p> + +<p><i>2nd.</i>—A very fine morning, and, as I anticipated, it +turned out very hot. Yet whilst the sun scorched my +face on one side, the cold wind from the east blanched +my cheek on the other. No living creature seen but a +few insects. Our people fell in with the skeleton of a +Touarick ass, and amused themselves with setting it up +upon its legs, as if in the pillory. I rallied them afterwards +as they were in a good humour, on their terror of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-402" id="V1-402"></a>[<a href="images/1-402.png">402</a>]</span> +banditti yesterday. They replied, "It was the number +of people on foot which alarmed us, banditti generally +go on foot with a few camels to carry provisions and +water." We started at sun-rise and encamped an hour +before sun-set, to have light enough to collect firewood, +and forage for the camels. The ground of our course +to-day was broken into broad and long valleys. In the +wady where we encamp is herbage for camels. I notice +as a thing most extraordinary, after seven days from +Ghadames, two small trees! the common Desert acacia. +Another phenomenon, I see two or three pretty blue +flowers! as I picked one up, I could not help exclaiming, +<i>Elhamdullah</i>, ("Praise to God!") for Arabic was growing +second-born to my tongue, and I began to think in +it. An Arab said to me, "Yâkob, if we had a reed +and were to make a melodious sound, those flowers, the +colour of heaven, would open and shut their mouths +(petals)." This fiction is extremely poetical. Felt unwell +this morning from eating or munching too many +dates; better this evening. All our people well, and no +accidents.</p> + +<p><i>3rd.</i>—Rose at sun-rise and pursued our weary way +over broken ground, now broad valleys, now low hills. +Whilst exclaiming that the sandy desert was all "a +report," "a talk," "a fabrication of travellers who wished +to increase and vary the catalogue of Saharan hardships," +at noon we came upon a range of sand-hills. These +increased on every side, and at length we cut right across +a group of them. Having left the plateau the mirage has +also disappeared, apparently the only species of desert +where it can be fairly developed. With the sand has +appeared a new kind of stone, of a light-blue slate<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-403" id="V1-403"></a>[<a href="images/1-403.png">403</a>]</span> +colour, some of it of as firm a consistence as granite. +Its colour also sometimes varies to a beautiful light green. +The Desert itself only increases and varies in hideousness. +And yet in some places where sand is sprinkled +over the hardened earth, a little coarse herbage springs +up. Encamped at night. Cold all day. Felt unwell. +To-day and yesterday course mostly south.</p> + +<p><i>4th.</i>—Sand-hills increase in number, and find ourselves +in the heart of a region of sand. At noon descended +the deepest wady we have yet encountered. On the big +blocks of rock below Arabic and Touarghee letters were +carved. The barbarians, as their civilized brethren, seek +in this way also a bastard immortality for their names. +Down in the valley we passed some human bones; the +skull was perfect. Who shall write the history of these +bones? Are they those of one who was murdered, or +who dropped from exhaustion in The Desert? These +bones scattered at the camel's feet made the march of +to-day still more melancholy. No herbage for camels or +wood for fire. Gave our nagah barley and dates. It +frequently happens, there is no wood <i>en route</i> (I mean +underwood or scrub), or at the place where we are +obliged to stop. This obliges us to carry it from places +where it abounds, as also a little herbage for the camels. +Pitched our camp amidst the sandy waste late at night. +Our route varied between S.W., S., and S.E., but around +some huge groups of sand-hills we were obliged to make +a painful circuit. Warmer to-day, and a little wind, +always from the east. No living creature met with! +No sound or voice heard! Felt better to-day.</p> + +<p><i>5th.</i>—Rose with the sun, as it enflamed the sand-hills, +and made them like burnished heaps of metal. Marched<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-404" id="V1-404"></a>[<a href="images/1-404.png">404</a>]</span> +three hours amidst the sand-hills. Very difficult route +for the camels, which frequently upset their loads in +mounting or descending the groups of hills. The Arabs +smooth the abrupt ascents, forming an inclined plane of +sand, and then, in the descents, pull back the camels, +swinging with all their might on the tails of the animals. +No herbage—no stone—no earthy ground—all, everything +one wide waste of sand, shining under the fervid +sun as bright as the light, dazzling and blinding the eyes. +But Milton's poetic eye, turning, or in "a fine frenzy +rolling" to the ends of the earth, subjecting all the +images and wonders of nature, of all climates and countries, +to the supporting of his majestic verse, glanced also +at these sands of the Lybian Desert—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">"Unnumbered as the sands</span> +<span class="i0">Of Barca or Cyrene's torrid soil."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>El-Aïshi, describing the sandy Sahara, says, "There +is neither tree, nor bush, nor herb. The eye sees only +clouds of sand, raised by continual winds, which by their +violence efface the marks of the caravan as fast as men +and animals imprint them with their feet. The aspect +of this immensity of sand reminds me of the words, +'Bless our Lord Mahomet as much as the sand is +extended,' and I understood now their full import."</p> + +<p>But here in the centre of this wilderness of sand we +had an abundant proof of the goodness of a good God. +Whilst mourning over this horrible scene of monotonous +desolation, and wondering why such regions were created +in vain, we came upon <i>The Wells of Mislah</i>, where we +encamped for the day. These are not properly wells, +for the sand being removed in various places, about four<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-405" id="V1-405"></a>[<a href="images/1-405.png">405</a>]</span> +or five feet below the surface, the water runs out. Indeed, +we were obliged to make our own wells. Each +party of the ghafalah dug a well for itself. Ghafalahs +are divided into so many parties, varying in size from +five men and twenty camels, to ten men and forty camels. +Three or four wells were dug out in this way. Some of +the places had been scooped out before. Water may be +found through all the valley of Mislah. A few dwarfish +palms are in the valley, but which don't bear fruit. The +camels, finding nothing else to eat, attacked voraciously +their branches. It is surprising the sand is not more +scattered over the wells and trees, for on the south-west +is a lofty sand-hill, deserving the name of a mountain, +almost overhanging the pits. Here is a sufficient proof, +at once, that The Desert has no sandy waves like the +Desert Ocean of waters, as poets and credulous or exaggerating +writers have been pleased to inform us. Were +this the case, the wells of Mislah would have been long +ago heaped up and over with pile upon pile of sand-hills, +and caravans would have abandoned for ever this line of +route. For we can hardly suppose that one sand-storm +would cover the pits of Mislah with a mountain pile of +sand, and the next sand-storm uncover them and lay +them bare to the amazed Saharan traveller. On the +contrary, the pits of Mislah and the stunted palms have +every appearance of having remained as they now are +for centuries. The hills are huge groups, some single +ones, glaring in sun above the rest, and others pyramidical. +The sand at times is also very firm to the +camel's tread. Shall I say a <i>terra firma</i> in loose shifting +sands? But for the water of Mislah it is extremely +brackish, nay salt. I had observed between the sand-<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-406" id="V1-406"></a>[<a href="images/1-406.png">406</a>]</span>hills +small valleys, or bottoms, covered with, a whitish +substance which I now find salt. Both men and camels +are alike condemned to drink this water. I try it with +boiling and tea and find it worse, and cannot drink it, +so I'm obliged to beg of our people the remaining sweet +water of Nather, left in the skins. Our people confess +themselves, in summer when this water gets hot they +can scarcely drink it, being veritable brine. An European +travelling this route should always provide himself with +water enough at the well of Nather to last him from six +to eight days. My skin-bags have got out of order, and +I did not make inquiries of the people about this well. +At one well a traveller should always make inquiry about +the water of the next well. This is indispensable if an +European tourist would have water fit to drink. The +Mislah water is full of saline particles, and is purging +every body. The valley of Mislah, over which we are +encamped, is not more than twenty minutes' walking in +length, and half this in breadth. In many parts the +sand is encrusted with a beautiful white salt. One of +the Arabs of Souf said to me, "See, Yâkob, this is our +country, all Souf is like this." So it appears an oasis +may exist in a region of <i>shifting</i> (?) sands. Are these +the shifting sands which bury whole caravans beneath +their sandy billows, when lashed up by the Desert tempest<a name="FNa_1-63" id="FNa_1-63"></a><a href="#FoN_1-63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a>?</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-407" id="V1-407"></a>[<a href="images/1-407.png">407</a>]</span></p> +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-15.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-15_th.jpg" alt="Region of Sands" title="Region of Sands" /></a></p> + +<p>This reminds me of what Colonel Warrington told +me of some tourist, who describes himself as killing +a camel to procure the water from its stomach, when +within a couple days from Tripoli, and on a spot where +there was a splendid spring of never-failing water. I often +asked the Arabs, if they ever killed the camel to get the +water from its stomach? They replied, "They had often +heard of such things." A merchant of Ghadames made, +however, an apposite observation: "This is our sea, here +we travel as you in your sea, bringing our provisions and +water with us."</p> + +<p>These pits are considered the half-way house or +station to Ghat. I'm told the route from Ghat to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-408" id="V1-408"></a>[<a href="images/1-408.png">408</a>]</span> +Aheer is much more easy and agreeable than this. +Trust I shall find it so if I go. Begin to feel this irksome, +and am in low spirits. People try to amuse me, +and I have received many little presents of date-cakes +and bazeen from them. Begin to relish this sort of food, +and The Desert air sharpens the appetite. Yesterday, a +slave of the ghafalah amused us with playing his rude bagpipe +through these weary wastes. We are not very merry. +There is very little conversation; we move on for hours +in the most unbroken silence, nothing being said or whispered, +no sound but the dull slow tread of the camel. +Sometimes an Arab strikes up one of his plaintive ditties, +and thinks of his green olive-clad mountain home in the +Atlas. Happily there is little or no quarrelling. I am +sure sixty people of all ages and tempers, were they +Europeans, travelling in this region of blank monotony, +oppressed with sombre reflections and without anything +to relieve the senses, would not manage things so +smoothly, or without quarrelling, and at times most +desperately. For we are a <i>bonâ fide</i> moving city, and +at each well every body prepares to start afresh. Some +mend their torn clothes, others the broken gear of the +camels, others take out the raw materials from their bags +and work up a new supply of provisions. Others wash +and shave. Our Saharan travellers rarely wash themselves +except at the wells. Their religion requires of +them to wash their hands at their meals, but this they +evade by rubbing their hands with a little sand, a privilege, +however, Mahomet has only granted them when +they can find no water. We followed the tracks of the +few of our party who had preceded us. Here also the +footstep is rigidly observed as in the American wilder<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-409" id="V1-409"></a>[<a href="images/1-409.png">409</a>]</span>ness, +and the people pretend to distinguish the foot-print +of the bandit on the sand from that of an honest man. +But one night of strong wind usually covers up the +track, and though the sand does not move in billows, it +flies about, first from one side and then the other, and +fills up the foot-prints of men and animals. There is no +doubt but it requires the most practised eye of the +camel-driver to find his way through these regions, and +yet, for my life, I could not see that the people experienced +any difficulty. They seemed as much at home +in this intricate waste of creation as in their own dark +zigzag streets of Ghadames.</p> + +<p>As the sun goes down and night comes on, the sand-hills, +from shining white, look as dark and drear as earth-hills. +But how smooth is all! If they were hills of +blown glass they could not be more smooth. In the +sketch of Mislah will be seen a date-tree with part of its +branches depending, forming with the up-rising a curious +shape. The under foliage is dead and dried up, a fit +object in the desolate scene. Not a single living creature +about the wells. No bird is here. At Maseen and +Nather we had seen two or three small birds, hopping +about the wells, picking up the crumbs and scattered +grain of the passing caravan. Except the little vegetable +life, all else here is "a universe of death!"</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-62" id="FoN_1-62"></a><a href="#FNa_1-62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> A <i>cantar</i> is about an English hundred-weight.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-63" id="FoN_1-63"></a><a href="#FNa_1-63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> Oudney says:—"The presence of nothing but deep sand-valleys +and high sand-hills strikes the mind forcibly. There is something +of the sublime mixed with the melancholy. Who cannot contemplate +without admiration masses of loose sand fully four hundred +feet high, ready to be tossed about by every breeze, and not shudder +with horror at the idea of the unfortunate traveller being entombed +in a moment by one of these fatal blasts, <i>which sometimes occur</i>?" +I agree with the Doctor about the sublime and melancholy mixed in +contemplating these regions of sand. But they are by no means +dangerous. No people that I heard of had been entombed under +these fatal blasts. I am almost sorry now that I did not pass +through the region of Mislah in a Saharan hurricane, and then I +should have known all.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-410" id="V1-410"></a>[<a href="images/1-410.png">410</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2> + +<h3>FROM GHADAMES TO GHAT.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>End of the Sandy Region.—No Birds of Prey in The Sahara.—Progress +of the French in the Algerian Oases.—Slave Trade of +The Desert supported by European Merchants.—Desolations of +Sahara.—System of Living of our People.—Various Tours +through Central Africa.—The Desert tenanted by harmless and +Domesticated Animals.—Horribly dreary Day's March.—A Fall +from my Camel.—Well of Nijberten, and its delicious Water.—Moral +Character of the People of our Caravan.—Well of Tăbăbothteen.—Camel +knocked up and killed.—Mode of Killing +Camels.—Pretty Aspect of The Sahara.—Some of the Ghafalah +go on before the rest.—The Plain and Well of Tadoghseen.—Encounter +and Adventure with the <i>quasi</i> Bandit Sheik, Ouweek.—Enter +the region of the <i>Jenoun</i> or Genii.—Mountain Range +of Wareerat.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>6th.</i>—<span class="smcap">Rose</span> at day-break but did not start until after +sun-rise. Continued through the sand. Scenery as yesterday, +hills heaped upon heap, group around group, and +sometimes a plain of sand, furrowed in pretty tesselated +squares like the sands of the sea-shore. I walked about +three hours to ease the nagah. The camels continued to +flounder in the sand, throwing over their necks their +heavy burdens. The ascents extremely difficult: people +employed in scooping an inclined path for the animals. +But, in the afternoon, about three, we saw through an +opening of the shining heaps, a blue and black waste of +contiguous desert. I could not help crying out for joy, +like a man at the prow who descries the port, after +having been buffeted about many a stormy day by contrary +winds and currents. Much fatigued with the walk<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-411" id="V1-411"></a>[<a href="images/1-411.png">411</a>]</span>ing +over the sands, and sick with drinking the brackish +water of Mislah. Nothing <i>en route</i> to-day except four +crows, and a skeleton of a camel. This is the small +crow of The Sahara (‮غراب الصحرا‬). People pretend it +does not drink water. It may live on the flesh of the +few camels which drop down and die from exhaustion, +and on lizards. There are, however, no vultures and +ravenous birds of huge dimensions in this region of +Sahara. So that,</p> + +<p class="figcenter">‮حيثما يكون الجسد ايضا تجتمع النسور‬</p> + +<p>"Where the body is, there also collect the eagles," is +not applicable to this part of The Desert, although the +vulture, pouncing voraciously upon the dead man and +dying camel, is an appropriate feature in Saharan landscapes. +The large birds of prey do not find, as the +lion, water to drink in these regions. When we got fairly +upon the firm ground of Stony Sahara, I was refreshed +with the sight of seven small acacia trees. This seems to +be the only tree which will not surrender to the iron +sceptre of Saharan desolation, for it strikes its roots into +the sterility itself. A white butterfly also, to my amazement, +passed my camel's head! Where does the little +fluttering thing get its food in this region of desolation?</p> + +<p>Another of the Souf Arabs said to me this morning, +"This sand is the country of the Souafah and the Shânbah." +If so, indeed, it would be a troublesome country +for a military expedition. "However," said a merchant, +"the maharee can pursue the Shânbah to the last heap +of their sands." Speaking of the Shânbah last evening +when we were in the midst of the sands, the Souafah +said:—"When the enemy will come, we shall cover ourselves +in the sand, and fire off our matchlocks. They<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-412" id="V1-412"></a>[<a href="images/1-412.png">412</a>]</span> +will feel our bullets, and hear our report, and look about +and see no person. We shall be covered up in the +sand." This, the Souf Arab repeated several times, and +the Ghadamsee traders thought it astonishingly clever +and courageous. It is reported five hundred Touaricks +are soon to pursue the Shânbah into the Algerian territory. +It is said also, French Arabs will support the +Shânbah bandits against both Touaricks and Souafah. +Such is the silly talk of our caravan. Still the French have +got far south, and my Souafah companions acknowledge +that some of their districts pay tribute to the Algerian +authorities. This is something like <i>progress</i>, and we +ought not to deceive ourselves about their movements +southwards. Nothing is worse than self-deception. The +Romans struggled long before they made any sensible +progress in Africa, nay, several centuries. In fifteen +years the French have induced a whole line of Saharan +oases, more or less, to acknowledge their authority. And +the thing is done cleverly enough; they do not appoint +a local governor, or dispatch a single soldier, and yet +they manage to get some money from these distant +Saharan oases. However, this tribute must be very +trifling; and were all this line of Algerian oases to pay +their tribute regularly, it would be as a drop in the +bucket compared with the thousands of millions of francs +which have been spent, and will be spent in Algeria. +Such a colony as Algeria will not only not pay, but will +ruin the finances of a score of kingdoms as large as +France. The politics of our moving Saharan city are +mostly confined to the Pasha of Tripoli and the French in +Algeria. "When will the Pasha go, soon or late? Will +another come after him? Will he be better? Will he +fleece us as this despot, of all our money? Have the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-413" id="V1-413"></a>[<a href="images/1-413.png">413</a>]</span> +French many troops in Algeria? Have they more than +Muley Abd-Errahman? Could they conquer Morocco? +Why don't the English drive out the French from +Algeria? The Mussulmans of Algeria are now corrupted +by the money of the Christians. The Bey of +Tunis is the friend of the French. The Sultan of Constantinople, +Mehemet Ali, and the English are against +the Bey of Tunis and the French. Now, the Christians +have great power in the world, but they will soon be cut +off, when shall appear the new warrior of the faithful. Is +the Sultan of Stamboul strong? Has he more soldiers +than Moskou (Russia)? Have the French more soldiers +than the English? Is Mehemet Ali to have Tripoli +given him, and is he to march on to Tunis and against +the French?" &c. All these, and a thousand other +questions and opinions similar, agitate the sage politicians +of our ghafalah: so true it is, that when we change the +heavens above, we do not change our thoughts on the +things below, which are left behind us.</p> + +<p>My friend, Zaleâ, of Seenawan, did not come with us, +he having contracted for the building of the caravansary +of Emjessem, but his brother, a rough bold Arab, accompanied +us, who assured me to-day,—"That all the goods +of the ghafalah were the property of Christians and +Jews in Tripoli, and the Ghadamseeah merchants were +only their commission agents. These goods were to be +exchanged for Soudan merchandise, including slaves, +which latter, after being sold in Tripoli, the money of +their sale would be given up to the merchants under +European protection." This is a strong confirmation of +the opinion which I have expressed in my reports, "<i>That +the slave-traffic of Tripoli is supported by the money and</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-414" id="V1-414"></a>[<a href="images/1-414.png">414</a>]</span> +<i>goods of Europeans</i>." My informant wished to know +and put the question:—"If I take you (the writer) to +Soudan, and bring you back safe, will you get me free +from paying taxes to the Pasha?" Another observed on +this,—"That's ridiculous, Yâkob; if you say that Mahomet +is the prophet of God, you can go safe to Soudan +without the protection of any body." I made answer +to this impertinence, that such language was not proper, +and if they continued to pester me with their religion, I +should report them to Rais Mustapha. This at once +silenced them.</p> + +<p>Felt very sick this evening with drinking the water of +Mislah. It is purging all the people like genuine +Epsom.</p> + +<p><i>7th.</i>—Started a little before sun-rise, when a clear +mist was spread like a mantle of gauze over old Sahara, +and lost the sight of the sand-hills in the course of the +morning. I joyfully bid them adieu, though it may be +very fine and Desert-like to talk and write of regions of +sand and sandy billows, furrowing the bosom of Sahara. +Winding about, but always making south. Wind now +from the west; the sky mostly overcast, but no signs of +rain. No living things <i>en route</i>, but a solitary crow, and +another solitary butterfly. The mirage again visible. +Very little herbage for the camels, and no wood for the +fire. On our right long ranges of low hills, dull and +drear outlines of The Desert. In some masses, the stone +and earth and chalk are thrown together in confusion, as +so many materials for creating a new world. Those +who traverse these Saharan desolations, cannot but receive +the impression, that old mother earth, slung on her +balance, and revolving on her axis, has performed eternal<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-415" id="V1-415"></a>[<a href="images/1-415.png">415</a>]</span> +cycles of decay and reproduction. Time was, when these +heaps of desolation were fruitful fields of waving corn and +smiling meadows, and fair branching woods, meandered +about with running rills of silvery streams, where cattle +pastured lowing, and birds sang on the trees. Now, +heap upon heap, and pile upon pile of the ruins of +nature deform the dreadful landscape, one feature being +more hideous to look upon than the other: and the +whole is a mass of blank existence, having no apparent +object but to daunt and terrify the hapless wayfarer, who +with his faithful camel, slowly and mournfully winds his +weary way through the scene of wasteful destruction. . . . . In +the sand, the pebbles are as bright and +smooth as those washed by the sea-spray, or chafed by a +running brook.</p> + +<p>I have observed minutely the system of living amongst +our people, and really believe they have not enough to +eat. When they invite me to supper, and give me a +share of <i>bazeen</i>, I always require another supper on my +return, before going to bed. Besides, I always make a +slight repast in the morning, which they do not. Then I +eat dates and a piece of cake during the day's riding, +for we never stop during the day's march. They also +munch a few dates themselves. But, altogether, though +I'm a moderate eater, I believe I eat every day twice, +and sometimes thrice, as much as they eat. With respect +to clothing, I wear double the quantity they do, and, +nevertheless, feel cold at night. I may say with truth, +they are poorly fed and badly clothed. It is this +miserable system of living which makes them such lanky +bare-boned objects. I observe, also, they feel the fatigue +very much, as much as I myself, though unwell with<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-416" id="V1-416"></a>[<a href="images/1-416.png">416</a>]</span> +drinking the water and serving a hard apprenticeship to +Desert-travelling.</p> + +<p>I believe Europeans, in this season of the year, would +travel these Saharan wilds with less fatigue, and in far +superior style. I now walk two hours first thing every +morning. Most of the merchants do the same. Zaleâ +said to me, "Yâkob, we (pointing to three or four of his +people) are the only true men here, and understand affairs; +the rest are all good-for-nothing." Indeed, the Seenawanee +Arabs are generally very excellent camel-drivers, and +know the routes perfectly. We have with us a young +Touarick, who never covers his head winter or summer. +His hair grows long, unlike other Mohammedans, who +shave the head. This Targhee tells me he is never unwell. +We're encamped in a valley. As the sun sets, the +sky is encharged with clouds. But usually the wind +goes down a little after dark, and rises an hour or two after +day-break. Fortunately, this is not a month of winds, so +say the people.</p> + +<p>As the camel moves slowly, but surely<a name="FNa_1-64" id="FNa_1-64"></a><a href="#FoN_1-64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a>, on to Ghat, I +still revolve in mind the various routes of the interior. +I'm still as much at a loss as ever to determine which +route I shall take, and have only Providence for my +guide. There are various routes before me:—</p> + +<p>1st.—To go to Soudan, <i>viâ</i> Aheer, and return with +the ghafalah of Ghadames, with which I proceed. This +is easy and simple, but does not offer much variety.</p> + +<p>2nd.—To proceed to Soudan, <i>viâ</i> Aheer, as in the +first, and return <i>viâ</i> Bornou and Fezzan. This offers +both variety and security.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-417" id="V1-417"></a>[<a href="images/1-417.png">417</a>]</span></p> +<p>3rd.—To proceed as before to Soudan, then Bornou, +then Darfour, Kordofan, Nubia, and Egypt. This is +various, new, and attended with danger, but I don't +know what extent of danger.</p> + +<p>4th.—To proceed to Soudan, Kanou, and Noufee, +and then descend the Niger to the Bight of Benin. +This would be a fine journey, and perhaps not attended +with any very great difficulties.</p> + +<p>5th.—To proceed to Soudan, as above, thence along +the upper banks of the Niger to Timbuctoo, and return +<i>viâ</i> Mogador in Morocco. This I believe the most +perilous of all the routes.</p> + +<p>Any of these routes, however, could not fail to be +useful to commerce, geography, and discovery. Those +who take the route of descending the Niger to the ocean, +will avoid a three or four months' journey over The +Desert. Noufee, on the Niger, is only fifteen days from +Kanou, and seven to the Atlantic.</p> + +<p>To-day passed several tumuli of stones, more than eight +feet high, evidently placed to direct the caravans over the +trackless portions of Sahara. I wonder what the people +of Europe will say when I tell them, that The Desert—pictured +in such frightful colours by the ancients, as +teeming with monsters and wild beasts, and every unearthly +and uncouth thing and being, not forgetting the +dragons, salamanders, vampyres, cockatrices, and fiery-flying +serpents, and as such believed in these our enlightened +days—is a very harmless place, its menagerie +being reduced to a few small crows, and now and then a +stray butterfly, and a few common house and cheese-and-bacon +and fruit flies! these poor little domestic everyday +creatures! Nay, there is not found here the wild<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-418" id="V1-418"></a>[<a href="images/1-418.png">418</a>]</span> +ox, or the oudad, or the antelope, or ostrich, or the wild +boar, or any other animal which inhabit and mark the +Saharan regions near the north coast of Africa. It is, +indeed, impossible to conceive of a country so devoid of +living creatures as the route which we have traversed +these last twelve days. To this must be added, that now +is the favourable season for animals, and we should certainly +see them if there were any to be seen.</p> + +<p>Of the four routes to Ghat, the next to us on the west, +is the shortest. People say the route which we are now +travelling is only frequented in this season, and mostly +by large caravans, or scarcely ever in the summer.</p> + +<p><i>8th.</i>—Rose at day-break and started at sunrise: as +usual, the sky overcast and in an hour the wind got up +and blew a strong gale awhile from the south-east. To-day +Sahara looked unusually dark and drear; night as a +dread pall seemed to hang on the day and all visible +things—all life and animation was extinct but our lone, +solitary, melancholy caravan! We moved on in deep +and weary silence, not a noise, a cry, a murmur, the +grumbling of the camels was even hushed. Nothing +broke the horrid silence of The Desert. We wound +round long-long winding valleys—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">"Through many a dark and dreary vale</span> +<span class="i0">[We] pass'd, and many a region dolorous—"</span> +<span class="i4">"Where all life dies."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>Most of the stone scattered <i>en route</i> was black shingle, +and all the region had a volcanic look. In one wady +through which we passed were found several stones +rounded into (shall I call them?) cannon-balls, scattered +about, and some were of prodigious size. They +were as round as if artificially made. There were also a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-419" id="V1-419"></a>[<a href="images/1-419.png">419</a>]</span> +great many halves, or half balls. Our people to divert +their minds from the gloom hanging around them dismounted +and amused themselves with these cannon-balls +of nature. Some would say that nature furnishes a type +of every thing in art. Our Touaricks assured us, "These +balls were made by the Jenoun, who on occasion of +quarrels, pelted one another with them. A traveller was +once killed with some of these balls during the night, +although a friend of the Jenoun." In a former period, I +imagine the action of water produced these specimens of +stony rotundity, for they were embedded in a deep wady. +On leaving this valley, I had also something else to +relieve me from the gloom of this day's march. On +mounting a small ridge of rock, abrupt, and full of sharp +stones, I was pitched off in a summerset style from the +back of the camel, and if I had not been caught in my +fall by a slave of the caravan, I should have fallen once +and for ever in this world; as it was, I felt stunned and +considerably hurt. This was my first and last fall from +the camel. I learnt caution at a great risk. The people +all crowded round to assist me, terribly frightened. My +thick woollen clothes saved my bones. I could not help +remarking the coincidence of being saved by a slave, for +the benefit of whom I had chiefly undertaken this +perilous journey. In general, the camel goes extremely +steady, it is only in mounting and descending that they +become unsteady, unwieldy, and dangerous. At other +times, you may sleep, eat and drink, read and write, on +the back of a camel. But as our days are short and +nights long, we require no sleep, and my eyes are too +bad for reading. Our people call camels by the Arabic +term <i>bâeer</i> (‮بعير‬), the male camel is called <i>jemel</i> (‮جمل‬),<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-420" id="V1-420"></a>[<a href="images/1-420.png">420</a>]</span> +and the female <i>nagah</i> (‮ناقه‬). As the she-camel is most +valuable for the sustenance of the tribes, the Touaricks +sometimes call the whole race of camels nagah. "We," +say they, "have nothing but the <i>nagah</i> (she-camel)," +thereby meaning, our property alone consists in camels. +But the nagah is a great favourite with the Mussulmans +of all nations. Mahomet mounted a milk-white nagah, +when he ascended to paradise. The camels have all +public and private marks, the former for their country, +and the latter for their owner, and, strange enough, the +public mark of the Ghadames camels is the English +broad R. So when a camel is stolen, a man claims his +camel by his mark. The marking is done by branding +with a hot iron.</p> + +<p>I can't help observing the habits of the camels, for our +continued marching affords us ample leisure. When these +melancholy creatures can find no other occupation <i>en route</i>, +or when there is nothing <i>en route</i>, or after a full +belly, they set to work, like men, and bite one another. +Often one of the camels falls, or throws its load, in a +regular encounter. The Moors and Arabs are bad +loaders of the camels, and there is always some camel +with its load falling off. In fact, the people do nothing +neat and well. Even the little gear required for these +animals is continually breaking and getting out of order. +People look to the immediate hour before them: not +excepting even the necessary articles of fodder and +water, and food for themselves, of which they often neglect +to take a sufficient supply. And yet if anything +could teach a man to be provident it is The Desert. If +this Saharan travelling were placed under the management +of Europeans, it would be infinitely more secure.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-421" id="V1-421"></a>[<a href="images/1-421.png">421</a>]</span> +Our camels are nearly all coast-camels, we shall soon +have to speak of the maharee. The Touarghee uses +quite a different style of address when he coaxes along +the camels; it is bolder and quicker in its intonations, +suited to the language of the Touaricks. A frequent +address of encouragement is, "<i>Bok, bok bok, bokka +bokka</i>." The Arabs usually command the movement of +the camels by "Tzâ;" and when they are to stop, by +"Ush;" and, to kneel down, it is a prolonged pronunciation +of the guttural ‮خ‬ or Kh-h-h. We may well +suppose, however, that the camels which travel this route +are expert linguists in the Touarghee and Arabic.</p> + +<p>We continued all day till the last dull departing solar +ray of the west had left us. A long dark, dismal, dreary +day it has been. We encamped amidst two long ranges +of Saharan mountains as a shelter from the wind. Our +people detest the wind, they prefer burning heat to +wind. The mountains only deserve the name from their +frightfully gloomy aspect, not from their consistence or +magnitude, for in reality they are so much stony and +earthy rubbish shovelled up into long ridges. There is +nothing in shape or consistence of granite. I picked up +several pieces of petrified wood, but none of them pretty +or remarkable. So far as I can judge, there are no +minerals or rare stones to repay the researches of the +geologist in these regions of desolation. Noticed a +quantity of soft grey stone, as also of slate stone: observed +some lime-stone gradually acquiring the consistence +and colour of fine streaky marble.</p> + +<p><i>9th.</i>—Rose as the day broke, and started with the +first rays of the sun. Continued through the same kind +of country, with an addition of a little sand here and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-422" id="V1-422"></a>[<a href="images/1-422.png">422</a>]</span> +there, for five hours, until we arrived at the well of +Nijberten, to our great joy, for it is a well of deliciously +sweet water. Around the well, I was pleased +with the sight of several dark bushes scattered upon +the small sand-hills. Anything in the shape of a tree +now gladdens the heart. I observe again, that vegetation +often springs out of the sand in preference to the hard +or even softer earth in The Sahara. A little sand, scattered +over the hard earth, and oftener solid rock, enables +vegetation to spring up, when the mould of Sahara produces +nothing. But there is little or no herbage for +camels. Give my nagah the barley which I provided for +my own use. People ridicule the choice of Rais Mustapha +in the purchase of the camel, and say she will +never carry me to Soudan.</p> + +<p>I'm now writing the journal of yesterday. I can't +write every day. Sometimes several days elapse. Often +wonder how Denham could write his journal every day, +as he asserts. The wind is high and is scattering sand +in every direction. Certainly I require no supply of +sand when turning over my sheet wet with the ink.</p> + +<p>Before we get to the water, we are obliged to scoop +out the sand as at Mislah. Many pits in Sahara are in +this predicament. But we are infinitely more repaid for +our pains, for we find most refreshing nectar-like water, +as good as the last was bad. I imagine I drank off a +full gallon at once. I was praying night and day for +this water, and was obliged to go from tent to tent, +begging a drop of the water which was left of Nather +well, until all the skins were empty of that water. Some +of the merchants kept a little in a small skin as a luxury. +But I must do our people justice, for seeing I could not<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-423" id="V1-423"></a>[<a href="images/1-423.png">423</a>]</span> +drink the Mislah water, they gave me often their sweet +water and themselves drank the brackish. I must add, +I see no striking moral difference between the people of +this Desert caravan, and the people who fill an English +mail-coach or a French diligence. Mankind are morally +much the same everywhere. The last sixteen centuries +have added little or nothing to discovery and amendment +in morals, however orthodox we may all have become. +Our Christendom has been chiefly occupied in resisting +the worst features of the Mosaic economy as engrafted +by the corruptions of the Church on the Christian system. +The commission to Moses, "to extirpate the Canaanitish +tribes," has been the universal war-cry of the dominant +party in the Church to burn and empale heretics. There +are still many divinity professors who think it right +to kill heretics and infidels. The society of the nineteenth +century is still eaten up by the most rancorous +bigotry, and morality is proportionably at a low ebb. +Nevertheless, with all our present Desert hardships, we +are an easy journeying caravan; the patience of no one +is particularly tried, and there is no event to draw out +the real passions of the soul. We are now five days +from Ghat; to-morrow being the Ayed Kebir, we shall +make but a short day. Had a little private conversation +with a Souf Arab. There are some fifty families of Jews +in Souf, occupied in commerce. Speaking of the eternal +quarrel of the Shânbah and Souafah, I found him a +strong partisan of the Shânbah. "Fine fellows are the +Shânbah, like us the Souafah; one Shânbah would kill +five Touaricks," he exclaimed. Souf is a rich country. +This Souf Arab has thirty fine dughla date-trees, one of +finest species. Riches are estimated by the number of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-424" id="V1-424"></a>[<a href="images/1-424.png">424</a>]</span> +date-trees. He has two brothers now returning from +Soudan, bringing slaves and elephants' teeth for the +markets of Algeria.</p> + +<p>The notorious Mohammed Sagheer, who slaughtered +thirty Frenchmen in cold blood at Biscara, is now at +Tozer, in Tunis. This flight of fugitives will continue as +long as France is in North Africa. It is inevitable. +When a political refugee is quiet his person should be +held sacred; and it was very dastardly on the part of +the French to demand to have this Arab Sheikh given +up. But the French mind is incapable of comprehending +what is a political asylum, or even what is constitutional +freedom. Local politics still stick close to our +ghafalah, and the people have such faith in my power +and influence, that they really believe I could, if I would, +get Ghadames freed from paying tribute to the Porte. +An Arab of Derge said, "If you return from Soudan, +and speak to the English Consul and English Sultan, +you will then serve us in Derge and Ghadames, but if +you don't come back we are all lost." The British Consul +of Tripoli might, indeed, do something for these oppressed +people, and save the Saharan commerce from impending +ruin. I quiet the people by telling them, (and which is +the fact,) I have repeatedly written to the English Consul +of Tripoli about their affairs, and to obtain some mitigation +of the oppression of their Government.</p> + +<p>The bushes springing out of the sand are but a couple +of feet high, and their dark foliage is covered with +crystallized salt. They are a stinted species of acacia. +Nijberten is the first Touarghee name <i>en route</i>, and now +we are fairly in the Ghat territory. On our right, a +day's journey over some ranges of hills, are tents and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-425" id="V1-425"></a>[<a href="images/1-425.png">425</a>]</span> +flocks and inhabited districts. Passed several tumuli +of stones raised in the shape of graves. To-day the +stone had a better appearance, a good deal of grey and +red marble, and some isolated blocks of granite. No +birds, insects, or animals. Course south.</p> + +<p><i>10th.</i>—Strong wind all day, and cold. The Ayed +Kebir. But our travellers only prayed a little longer in +the morning. Travellers are exempt from the ordinary +religious ceremonies and festivals. This feast is usually +kept up three days. A camel knocked up to-day, and +unloaded this morning. After two hours and half, passed +on the right the well of <i>Tăbăbothteen</i>. People say its +water is still sweeter than that of Nijberten. Indeed, +we shall find the Ghat water to be usually sweet and +delicious. Scenery as usual, broken in valleys, hills, and +high ground. Some of the hills, covered partly with +sand, looked very pretty at a distance, shrouded as if in +a sheet of snow, and dazzling in the sun-beams. Encamped +early in the afternoon. The knocked-up camel +difficult to be got on. A Divan of camel-drivers was held, +and the question discussed, "Whether the camel should +be killed?" It was decided that it should be doctored +and left to graze until a Targhee was sent from Ghat for +it. A most piteous sight it was to look upon the poor +camel, prostrate and moaning, as if pleading the excuse +of its malady for not moving on. I could not stop to +look at the wretched animal. Nevertheless, I returned +again, and found the camel tied down, with its mouth +pulled open, and its jaws lashed back with cords, to +prevent the poor creature from groaning too loud. The +hot iron was being applied to the shoulder, where there +were some festering or dislocation; meanwhile, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-426" id="V1-426"></a>[<a href="images/1-426.png">426</a>]</span> +creature groaned in dreadful but silent agonies. At +length, this doctoring finished, it was left to graze; but +being actually nearly burnt to death, it could not get up, +and was killed during the night, <i>to prevent it from dying</i>, +in order that our orthodox people might eat the flesh +like good Mussulmans.</p> + +<p>Rais Mustapha amused me by telling how that the +Arabs watched the signs of immediate death, and just +stuck the camel in the last agony of dissolution, in order +that they might eat the flesh with an orthodox conscience. +Camels are killed differently from other animals. Sheep +and bullocks and fowls have their throats cut from side +to side, with "hideous gash," for they are the most slashing +throat-cutters; camels, on the contrary, are stuck in +the throat at the bottom of the neck, and the top of the +chest-bones. Next morning (<i>11th</i>), was held a Divan of +the whole ghafalah to decide upon the value of the +slaughtered camel, for the owner was in Ghadames. Its +worth was estimated at four dollars. I purchased a quarter +of a dollar's worth. The camel was young, but the meat +not very good. Our people soon devoured the meat.</p> + +<p><i>11th.</i>—Rose early, but did not start till near noon, to +give the camels more rest. Old Sahara looks absolutely +pretty with the dark shrubs bespotting and besprinkling +his white shining sand-hills. The heavens are strewn +with soft flaky light clouds; the blue above is clear and +profound, and what other colours there are, look fresh and +fair. Our people catch the lighter and more exhilarating +influence, and are more talkative to-day. Descending to +grosser matters, they are joking about how much of the +camel's meat they are to swallow for supper. A part of +the ghafalah left us, as the main body would not start<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-427" id="V1-427"></a>[<a href="images/1-427.png">427</a>]</span> +early, thinking to arrive a couple of days before us in +Ghat. I loaded and wished to go on with them, despising +my friend Fletcher's advice. They insisted I +should not accompany them, but come on with the larger +body of people. I was obliged to return, and it happened +for the best. This was a short day's march, but +wrote no journal. The advanced party excused themselves +for not letting me go with them, by saying, "We +are going amongst the Touaricks our friends for a few +days, and you will arrive first." I mentioned this to our +party, who say, "<i>They're liars.</i> Are you so foolish, +Yâkob, as to believe every thing a <i>Mussulman</i> tells +you?"</p> + +<p><i>12th.</i>—Rose and started with the earliest rays of the +Saharan sun. Scenery as usual; but the ranges of +Saharan hills assuming a more battlemental shape, and +darker, blacker colour. Fast approaching the inhabited +districts; saw the traces of a route to Fezzan, on which +the foot-prints of sheep were visible. Saw some inhabited +mountains at a considerable distance, but no +peculiar feelings started in the mind, and I grow weary +of the journey. A dull drear and long day. Overtook +the advanced portion of our ghafalah, and had the +laugh at them. We asked them, whether they had seen +their good friends the Touaricks? whether they had +brought us fresh eggs, milk, and a whole sheep? We, of +course, begging our portion of the rich spoil. The +people now told me to place my tent within the circle of +the encampment, as we were getting near the inhabited +districts. I usually encamped at a short distance from +the centre of confusion in the ghafalah, and found it<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-428" id="V1-428"></a>[<a href="images/1-428.png">428</a>]</span> +more quiet. As to fear, I had none, and slept more +soundly in the open Desert than in any part of the +world where I had travelled before.</p> + +<p><i>13th.</i>—Rose at day-break, and, after a few hours' +riding, came in full view of the Touarick camel-grazing +country. We descended into a beautiful plain. After +such Desert, how lovely it was! the plain of the Paradise +of Sahara! This plain afforded many a taste of freshest +herbage for the camels, almost approaching to English +grass. They cropped it with rapacious greediness. Every +person's eyes sparkled with delight at seeing the famished +camels devour the herbage. We stopped half an hour to +let them graze. Here were butterflies in quantities +fluttering about, in dress of silver white, and gorgeous +hues of rubies, and labouring <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'bettles'">beetles</ins> and industrious +ants covering the small turf-hills, all which were to us +"signs of life," and living in the world. We had already +seen, before entering the fair plain, a small flight of +larks, and now we feasted our eyes on a few swallows +skimming this "flowery mead," for here and there were +pretty blue and red and yellow wild flowers. A moment +I forgot being in The Desert. The abundance of the +herbage arises from there having recently fallen copious +showers of rain—quite unusual in this thirsty country. +But our route is the worst and most desolate of all the +routes from Ghadames to Ghat. The other parallel +routes always afford more herbage, besides having some +inhabited tracts, with flocks of sheep and herds of +camels feeding. Indeed, with the exception of a few +people at the well of <i>Tadoghseen</i>, which we shall soon +mention, we found no inhabitants in this the most<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-429" id="V1-429"></a>[<a href="images/1-429.png">429</a>]</span> +easterly route. Whilst passing through the plain I +espied a little black something moving about. In getting +up to it, to my astonishment it was a little child stark +naked! Our people were as much amazed as myself. I +thought within myself, if this be the way in which the +Touaricks bring up their children, exposed to cold and +heat, rain and wind, in such terrible plight in open +desert! no wonder then they can bear all the hardship +of The Sahara, as we a spring-day in Europe. It is impossible +for an European to contend with a nature like +that of the Touarick; we can never expect to adopt +their habits of Saharan travelling. The little wretched +urchin had been left by some of the shepherds, for +camels, goats, and donkeys were feeding about. The +child was very merry, but not old enough to speak +much. Our people gave the boy a piece of bread, which +he put at once to his mouth, and grinned "a thank you." +From the plain rises a huge block of rock in the shape of +a sugar-loaf, a frequent form of blocks of rock in this +desert. As we neared the well, I was greatly rejoiced at +the arrival of two slaves, one of which had been dispatched +by the Sheikh Jabour from Ghat, to tell me, "I +was to come with all confidence to Ghat, to fear nothing; +no Touarghee should say an untoward word to me." I +augured well of all things on the receipt of such news. +Our people were as pleased as myself on the arrival of +Jabour's slave. They called out to me to take the handkerchief +from off my face, to let the messenger see "the +face of a Christian."</p> + +<p>After riding further, three or four Touaricks showed +themselves. I saluted them. They asked our people +what I said, and did not seem very friendly. I began<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-430" id="V1-430"></a>[<a href="images/1-430.png">430</a>]</span> +to have suspicions<a name="FNa_1-65" id="FNa_1-65"></a><a href="#FoN_1-65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a>. The advanced portion of the ghafalah +had disposed of their camels and baggage before I +got up to the well. Said and myself went up amongst +the people encamping, but, looking on my left about +fifty yards' distant, I saw a group of people and a quarrel +going on between our people, four or five Touaricks, +and two slaves. Our people were violently pulling a +slave one way, and Ouweek, a Touarghee chief, tearing +him as savagely the other way. At length the slave, +struggling stoutly, got free, and went further off to a +horse. Ouweek thought the slave intended to mount +the horse and ride off to Ghat; so the chief followed the +slave and again seized hold of him, and unsheathing his +sword, began beating him with its sides. The Ghadamsee +people and Arabs again interfered and rescued the +slave. In the meanwhile Haj Mafoul Zuleâ passed me, +and said, "Go up, go up." I replied, "Why? I shall +stop here, where I am." He answered something; but, +being hard of hearing, I could not catch what he said. +I determined not to move. Afterwards, thinking that +Zuleâ wished me not to be mixed up with the quarrel, I +went further on towards Ghat. I imagined the slave +had been overriding his master's horse, and was being +beaten for that. After staying some time up the road, +I returned to my camel, tired of waiting, and sat down, +telling Said to unpack. But it seems Said had heard +something which I had not, and said, "Not yet, not +yet." I insisted upon his unloading the camel, and took +out some dates and biscuits, and lay myself down to eat<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-431" id="V1-431"></a>[<a href="images/1-431.png">431</a>]</span> +them. The scuffle and uproar was now going on about +a hundred yards from me, and I saw the sword of Ouweek +flourishing and flashing about. This was succeeded by a +calm, and a whole circle of people squatted down around +Ouweek. Meanwhile, the three followers of the Sheikh +went a short distance off, spread their heiks upon the +ground with great and solemn parade, and performed the +afternoon prayer, as if about to sanctify some impending +act of their Sheikh. I watched them anxiously. When +I had waited half an hour or so, several of our people, +with Zuleâ, returned, and not a little surprised me by +making to me the following announcement:—"Ouweek, +the Touarghee Sheikh of this district, wants to kill you, +because you are a Christian and an infidel. He has +just been beating one of the slaves for going to meet +you, accompanying the messenger of Ghat. He wished +you to come up to him, that he might dispatch you at +once." To say the truth, I had such confidence in the +Touaricks of Ghat, and had been so confirmed in my +confidence by the arrival of the messenger from Ghat, +that I could not believe this speech of our people, and +was disposed to think it a joke. I was perfectly cool, +and myself. But as they most seriously reiterated this +story, and let out a hint, or I gave the hint, I'm sure I +now forget in the confusion, that perhaps the business +could be compromised for money, I said to the spokesman, +Zuleâ, "Oh! for God's sake, go, go; yes, yes, make +a bargain." I noticed poor Said at the time, who was +staring at me full in the face, to see, it would appear, +how I was affected by this most unexpected incident. +After a great deal of squabbling and bargaining, in a +true mercantile style, it was finally arranged. Ouweek<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-432" id="V1-432"></a>[<a href="images/1-432.png">432</a>]</span> +first fiercely demanded one thousand dollars! Hereupon +all the people cried out that I had no money. The +<i>quasi</i>-bandit, nothing receding, "Why, the Christian's +mattress is full of money," pointing to it still on the +camel, for he was very near me, although I could not +distinguish his features. The Touaricks who had come +to see me before I arrived at the well, observed, "He +has money on his coat, it is covered with money," +alluding to the buttons. All our people, again, swore +solemnly I had no money but paper, which I should +change on my arrival at Ghat. The bandit, drawing in +his horns, "Well, the Christian has a nagah." "No," +said the people, "the camel belongs to us; he hires it." +The bandit, giving way, "Well, the Christian has a +slave, there he is," pointing to Said, "I shall have the +slave." "No, no," cried the people, "the English have +no slaves. Said is a free slave." The bandit, now fairly +worsted, full of rage, exclaimed, "What are you going +to do with me, am I not to kill this infidel, who has +dared to come to my country without my permission<a name="FNa_1-66" id="FNa_1-66"></a><a href="#FoN_1-66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a>?" +Hereat, the messenger from Ghat, Jabour's slave, of +whom the bandit was afraid, and dared not lay a hand +upon, interposed, and, assuming an air of defiance, said, +"I am come from my Sultan, Jabour; if you kill the +Christian, you must kill me first. The order of my Sultan +is, No man is to say a word to the Christian." Our +people now took courage from this noble conduct of the +slave, declaring, "If Yâkob is beaten, we will all be<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-433" id="V1-433"></a>[<a href="images/1-433.png">433</a>]</span> +beat first; if Yâkob is to be killed, we will be killed likewise." +Ouweek now saw he must come down in his pretensions. +The bargain was struck, after infinite wrangling, for +a houlee and a jibbah, of the value of four dollars<a name="FNa_1-67" id="FNa_1-67"></a><a href="#FoN_1-67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a><ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: removed superfluous quotation mark">!</ins> +I did not, therefore, "sell for much," and Christians at four +dollars per head in The Desert must be considered very +cheap. It is said, every man has his price; I had not +the honour of fixing my price. This was done for me, +and I ratified the bargain. I made a present of a turban +to the brave messenger, whom the people assured me +acted a most noble part. It is strange that this is the +second time I have been preserved from something like a +catastrophe by the interposition of a slave. Did Providence +intend this as any sign of approbation of my anti-slavery +labours? We were all uneasy. Everybody had +to supply something; and it was hinted, that I ought to +send them supper. Our people did this, and would not +allow me, saying, that I lived with them and had no +provisions of my own. I was indignant at the conduct +of the Souf Arabs, who cowered down before the Touaricks, +and belied all their previous pretensions to courage +and intrepidity. Even a Seenawan Arab was frightened +at my coming near his tent, in dread of another quarrel +or attack during the night. All our people more or less +were alarmed and agitated, although we numbered sixty +in the presence of five Touaricks! I thought in myself, +What arrant cowards you are! To cover their cowardice +they pretended the Sheikh had hundreds of people not<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-434" id="V1-434"></a>[<a href="images/1-434.png">434</a>]</span> +far off. Zaleâ, and his Arabs, certainly behaved the best. +Zaleâ, in fact, was now the only man of the caravan. +He told me afterwards, the Ghadamsee people had proposed +to him, that I should run away on to Ghat, but +he would not sanction such pusillanimity. I confess, +however, when the people described to me the character +of Ouweek, I myself felt considerable alarm. During +the succeeding night, I slept scarcely a wink. I made +the messenger of Jabour sleep close by my mattress, and +unsheathing Said's old rusty sword, laid it beside me, +determining "to die game," or put a good face upon the +matter. At any rate, I thought an Englishman could not, +however he might trust the good faith of these people, +die like an unresisting coward. Ouweek, like a true +politician, feasted the messenger dispatched from Ghat to +me nearly all night, and told him to report on his return +to Ghat:—"The Christian wished to give Ouweek a +handsome present, but the Ghadamsee people, who are +sorry dogs, would not let the Christian act from the +impulse of his heart. So Ouweek quarrelled with the +people of the caravan." The Sheikh and his followers +kept up a roasting fire all night, a stone's throw from my +encampment. The bandit was merry at the expense of +the alarms of me and our people, telling my messenger, +"These Ghadamseeah are all dogs, but the Christian is +no dog, for when I threatened to cut his throat, he sat +down quietly and ate dates and biscuits." The bandit +gave me more credit than I can take to myself, for, at +the time of munching the biscuits, I was not aware of his +violent attempt at levying black mail. There can, however, +be no question of the bad character of this Sheikh. +He has murdered several people, and, not long ago,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-435" id="V1-435"></a>[<a href="images/1-435.png">435</a>]</span> +killed a rich Marabout, going on a pilgrimage to Mecca, +plundering him of a great deal of property. He is therefore +no pleasant customer for a Christian to meet with on +the highways of The Sahara, whom he would decapitate +with less scruple of conscience than a Leadenhall poulterer +would cut off a goose's head. He has many people, +though a second-rate chief, and is allied by blood to the +reigning family of Shafou. Though a little insignificant +man, he possesses undaunted courage, and has signalized +himself in the wars against the Shânbah. He walks +lame with a wound he has received in battle. He is +generally dreaded in the open country, except by the +merchants, who are personally acquainted with him, to +whom he behaves as a very jolly fellow.</p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—All our people rose early, and got off as +quickly as possible. We could not breathe freely until +we were out of the clutches of Ouweek. Some of them, +however, paid a farewell visit to the Sheikh, who +received them very graciously, as politely as any Spanish +bandit, and sent this message to me:—"Yâkob, go in +<i>amen</i> (peace or security) to Ghat, fear nothing from +any one, for you are under my protection." Our people +encouraged me along. The Souf Arab, who was so +cowardly, said:—"Why didn't you say, 'Mahomet is +the prophet of God,' then you would have had to pay +no money." I called him a fool, and asked him, if all +the people didn't pay something as well as myself? This +stopped his mouth. Zaleâ fully agreed with me, as did +all our people, that if Ouweek had simply asked for a +present, he would have got more from me. I certainly +should have given him at once half a dozen dollars if he +had shown himself friendly, and welcomed me to his dis<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-436" id="V1-436"></a>[<a href="images/1-436.png">436</a>]</span>trict +as a friendly stranger. It appears he refused +money, and even the camel, which the people in the +<i>imbroglio</i> said he might, if he choose, take; he took the +woollens, because he knew they would not be made a +question of restitution by the Sheikhs and Sultan. He +was clearly entitled to receive something from me, by the +usage of ages, commonly called "safety-money," but not +to demand it at the point of his broad-sword. This was +his great offence in the eyes of all his friends and the +authorities of Ghat.</p> + +<p>I did not see the well, but the water of Tadoghseen is +extremely sweet and palatable. I should have paid my +homage to this well, as I had done to all the sources of +water in The Desert, had not Ouweek taken up his +quarters near it, and I was not anxious to disturb or +excite the curiosity of the bandit by a personal interview. +One of his followers came to see me off in the +morning, a tall attenuated black shape of a man.</p> + +<p>We are now fairly in "the region of the Genii," the +land of mystery and disembodied spirits; and the whole +country is intersected and bounded on every side with +the battlemental ranges of black, gloomy, and fantastically-shaped +mountains, distinguishing the country of the +Ghat Touaricks, where their friends and confederates, +the Jenoun or Genii, dwell with them in the most harmonious +friendship. Here our people say,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Millions of spiritual creatures walk the earth</span> +<span class="ihalf">Unseen, both when we wake and when we sleep."</span> +</div></div> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill1-16.jpg"><img src="images/ill1-16_th.jpg" alt="Rocking Rock" title="Rocking Rock" /></a></p> + +<p>There exists a compact between the Genii and Touaricks +to this effect, a species of <i>Magna Charta</i>, and not +selling themselves to the Saharan devils:—"The<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-437" id="V1-437"></a>[<a href="images/1-437.png">437</a>]</span> +Touarick fathers solemnly vowed, alone of mortals, +eternal friendship to the Genii, they would never molest +them in the various palaces which they (the Genii) had +built in their (the Touarick) country, nor use any means +either through Mahomet, or the Holy Koran, to injure +them or dislodge them from the black turret-shaped hills: +and for this devotion on their part, the Genii promised +to afford them (the Touaricks) protection at all times +against their enemies, more particularly during the night, +giving them vision and tact to <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'suprise'">surprise</ins> their enemy +during the dread hour of darkness." So the Touaricks +are reckoned very devils at night, and usually attack +their enemy at this time, and hack him to pieces with +their broadswords. Poor Major Laing was surprised +by a Touarghee chief in this way, two of his servants +were killed, and himself wounded, or cut and hacked in +some thirty places. The air of the region of Genii and +Touaricks we now breathed, but found it as free as that +of any part of The Sahara. Our people did not think +so, and they pointed out to me with a shuddering awe +all the mysterious objects. First and foremost, standing +out from the lower and more modest abodes of the +Genii, like a huge castle, such as the Titans might have +built when they scaled the walls of heaven, was the +<i>Kesar Genoun</i>, (‮قصر جنون‬) "Palace of demons," <i>par +excellence</i>. This was the hall of council where the Genii +meet from thousands of miles round, and debate upon +their affairs of State. It is also the Jemâ or Mosque, +where they meet on a Friday to pray to Allah, for they +also worship Allah, though not properly. These lower +and less destructive grades of Demonii "believe and +tremble." This is also the mint where the Genii keep<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-438" id="V1-438"></a>[<a href="images/1-438.png">438</a>]</span> +their bullion. The entire caverns of this monstrous +block of rock are full of gold and silver, and diamonds, +and all precious jewels<a name="FNa_1-68" id="FNa_1-68"></a><a href="#FoN_1-68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a>. A more <i>mortal</i> and sublunary +mystery was now pointed out to me. This was a small +block of rock about fifty feet high, of the shape of the +accompanying drawing; the lower or under part where +it comes in contact with the ground, being so exceedingly +small as not to be visible. Here was the dreadful spot +on which several people were murdered, and amongst the +rest a wealthy Marabout, but a saint of great sanctity. +The murderer (of what country it is not said), was so +ashamed and horrified at his own deed of blood, that +when he had committed it he begged the Genii to cover +up their bodies from his sight, for he had not courage to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-439" id="V1-439"></a>[<a href="images/1-439.png">439</a>]</span> +bury them. The Genii listened to his request, detached +this piece of rock from their great palace, where it has +rested, occasionally <i>rocking</i><a name="FNa_1-69" id="FNa_1-69"></a><a href="#FoN_1-69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a>, say the people, to this day—a +memento against murder and crime! For this +service the murderer begged the Genii to accept of +some of the spoil, but they refused to accept of gold +tainted with blood; and, on the contrary, the avenging +spirits of justice pelted him with pieces of rock till he +died. He was fairly stoned to death, and his bruised +and broken carcase was left unburied, a horror to all +passers-by! We see the Genii are a moral people, and +in general the Mussulmans of The Sahara speak of them +as a good sort of folks, not unlike Puck and his merry<span class='pagenum'><a name="V1-440" id="V1-440"></a>[<a href="images/1-440.png">440</a>]</span> +crew, only playing occasionally mischievous pranks upon +silly inconsiderate mortals.</p> + +<p>Beyond the Kesar Jenoun stretches away north and +south the long range of black basaltic mountains, called +by our people Wareerat, but I am not sure if this be the +Touarick name. This ridge forms the boundaries of the +Tibboo and Touarick country, for it stretches as far or +farther south than the Tibboos, some fifteen or twenty +days' journey. From the town of Ghat to the base of +this range is half a day, eastward, although the range +looks, by the ordinary delusion of Desert optics, to be +close upon the town.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-64" id="FoN_1-64"></a><a href="#FNa_1-64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> "Slow and sure," has in no case whatever so good an application +as to the progress of the camel's march.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-65" id="FoN_1-65"></a><a href="#FNa_1-65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> These were evidently Ouweek's spies. They certainly did not +accost me in that frank manner as the Touaricks had been wont in +Ghadames.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-66" id="FoN_1-66"></a><a href="#FNa_1-66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> "Without my permission," or literally "tearing the <i>Litham</i> +from my face." <i>El-Lithām</i>—‮اللثام‬—is the bandage which all the +Touaricks wear around the face, covering every part of it except +the top of the cheek-bones and the eyes.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-67" id="FoN_1-67"></a><a href="#FNa_1-67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> The houlee, ‮حولي‬, is the same as the heik, and the <i>jibbah</i>, ‮جبّه‬, +is a huge frock or tobe, with short sleeves, and coming up close +round the neck.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-68" id="FoN_1-68"></a><a href="#FNa_1-68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> On these words of Shakespear, "<i>Kept by a Devil</i>," (King +Henry VI., Part II., Act 4, and Scene 3,) Steevens makes the following +annotation:—"It was anciently supposed, and is still a +vulgar superstition of the East, that mines, containing precious +metals, were guarded by evil spirits." So in <i>Certaine Secrete Wonders +of Nature</i>, by Edward Fenton, 1569, "There appeare at this +day many strange visions and wicked spirites in the metal mines of +the Greate Turke. In the mine at Anneburg was a metal sprite +which killed twelve workmen; the same causing the rest to forsake +the myne, albeit it was very riche."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_1-69" id="FoN_1-69"></a><a href="#FNa_1-69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a> There is an extraordinary co-resemblance between this Saharan +<i>rocking</i>, or <i>logging</i>, stone, and that of our own in Cornwall, much +noted and visited by all classes of travellers. Among the truly +romantic coast-scenery of Cornwall, at the south-west angle of the +county, are the celebrated Logan, or <i>rocking-stone</i>, and the lofty +granite rocks called <i>Tiergh Castle</i>. Here is a reef of rocks jutting +into the sea, on the summit of one of which is a large single mass +of stone, weighing about sixty tons, resting on a sort of pivot, so +near the centre that the whole block may be easily made to oscillate +or <i>log</i>, to and fro. This <i>logging</i> stone has created astonishment +amongst the illiterate, and given rise to many fabulous stories: +whilst others have imagined it was placed here by the Druids, to +overawe and terrify the vulgar. +</p><p> +Geologists, however, says Dr. Paris, readily discover, that the only +chisel ever employed has been the tooth of time—the only artists +engaged, the elements. Some years ago, the upper, or logging-stone, +was thrown from its equilibrium by the bodily exertions of some +sailors; but a general cry of indignation having been raised against +this wanton act, it was shortly afterwards reinstated in nearly its +original position by the perpetrators of the mischief, who, while +thus making honourable amends for their former folly, evinced great +ingenuity and skilfulness.—<i>Fisher's Views in Devonshire and Cornwall.</i></p></div></div> + +<hr /> +<h4>END OF VOL. I.</h4> +<h4>LONDON: HARRISON AND SONS, PRINTERS, 45, ST. MARTIN'S LANE.</h4> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-i" id="V2-i"></a>[<a href="images/2-i.png">i</a>]</span></p> +<h1>TRAVELS</h1> + +<h4>IN</h4> + +<h1>THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA,</h1> + +<h3>IN THE YEARS OF 1845 AND 1846.</h3> + +<h4>CONTAINING</h4> + +<h3>A NARRATIVE OF PERSONAL ADVENTURES, DURING A TOUR OF NINE +MONTHS THROUGH THE DESERT, AMONGST THE TOUARICKS +AND OTHER TRIBES OF SAHARAN PEOPLE;</h3> + +<h4>INCLUDING A DESCRIPTION OF</h4> + +<h3>THE OASES AND CITIES OF GHAT, GHADAMES, +AND MOURZUK.</h3> + +<h2>BY JAMES RICHARDSON.</h2> + +<h4><ins class="grk" title="Greek: Phônê boôntos en tê erêmô.">Φωνὴ βοῶντος ἐν τῇ ἐρήμῳ.</ins></h4> + +<h3>IN TWO VOLUMES.</h3> + +<h2>VOL. II.</h2> + +<h3>LONDON:</h3> +<h4>RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,</h4> +<h5>Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.</h5> +<h6>M.D.CCC.XLVIII.</h6> + +<p> </p> +<hr /> +<p> </p> +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill2-01.jpg"><img src="images/ill2-01_th.jpg" alt="A SAND STORM." title="A SAND STORM." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter">A SAND STORM.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><i>J.E.S. del.</i> <i>J. W. Cook. sc.</i></p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-ii" id="V2-ii"></a>[<a href="images/2-ii.png">ii</a>]</span></p> + +<h4>LONDON:</h4> +<h4>HARRISON AND CO., PRINTERS,</h4> +<h4>45, ST. MARTIN'S LANE.</h4> + +<hr /> +<h3>Table of Contents</h3> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'><span class="smcap">page</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'> </td><td align='left'><a href="#BILLUSTRATIONS"><span class="smcap">Illustrations</span></a></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-ii">ii</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">XVI.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence in Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-1">1</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">XVII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence in Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-34">34</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">XVIII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence in Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-56">56</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">XIX.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Abandon the Tour to Soudan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-77">77</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">XX.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Continued Residence in Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-115">115</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">XXI.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Continued Residence in Ghat</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-152">152</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">XXII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Preparations for Departure to Fezzan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-189">189</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">XXIII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Ghat to Mourzuk</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-224">224</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">XXIV.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Ghat to Mourzuk</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-270">270</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">XXV.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence at Mourzuk</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-308">308</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">XXVI.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence at Mourzuk</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-336">336</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">XXVII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Mourzuk to Sockna</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-363">363</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">XXVIII.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Mourzuk to Sockna</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-386">386</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">XXIX.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Residence in Sockna</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-408">408</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXX">XXX.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Sockna to Misratah</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-433">433</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI">XXXI.</a></td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Misratah to Tripoli</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-460">460</a></td></tr> +</table></div> +<hr /> + +<h3><a name="BILLUSTRATIONS" id="BILLUSTRATIONS"></a>List of Illustrations</h3> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="List of illustrations"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'><span class="smcap">page</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="smcap">Plates.</span></td><td align='right'> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Sand Storm</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-i"><i>facing Title-page.</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="smcap">Wood-Cuts.</span></td><td align='right'> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Architectural detail of Houses</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-71">71</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Stones for grinding Corn</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-81">81</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Touaricks seated in the Shelly</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-108">108</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>View of the Town of Ghat from the Oasis</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-163">163</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Governor's Palace, Ghat</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-198">198</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dress of Touarick Men</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-207">207</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dress of Touarick Men showing Litham</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-209">209</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>"The Demon's Palace"</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-243">243</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Shapes of Desert Mosques</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-269">269</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Targhee Scout</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-302">302</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Detail of Talisman</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-418">418</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Carved Stone, Ancient Roman Station of Septimus Severus</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-445">445</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-1" id="V2-1"></a>[<a href="images/2-1.png">1</a>]</span></p> + +<h1>TRAVELS</h1> + +<h5><span class="smcap">in</span></h5> + +<h1>THE GREAT DESERT.</h1> + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> + +<h3>RESIDENCE IN GHAT.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival at Ghat, and reception by its Inhabitants.—The Cold of +The Sahara.—Haj Ahmed, the Governor, and Sheikh Jabour.—Distribute +Presents to the Governor and Jabour.—Visit the +Sheikh Hateetah, styled the British Consul of Ghat.—Make the +acquaintance of the Tripoline Merchant Haj Ibrahim.—The +Ghat Rabble.—Ouweek arrives in Ghat.—A Visit from Touarick +Women.—Arabs begging from me by force.—Arrival of Kandarka +from Aheer.—Bel Kasem's account of the Slave Trade.—Visit +to Haj Ahmed, the Governor; his Character and Establishment +described.—Bel Kasem's Sick Slave.—All classes of +People attempt to convert me to Mohammedanism.—Bad effect +of an European Tourist assuming the Character of a Mahometan.—Touarghee +mode of Saluting.—Miserable condition of +Slaves on arriving from Soudan.—Soudanese Merchants friendly +to me.—Visit from the Governor.—Report in The Desert of Christians +Worshipping Idols.—Make the Acquaintance of a young +Touarghee.—Slave Trading and Kidnapping Slaves up The +Niger.—Economical Bill of Expenses of Journey from Ghat to +Soudan.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>15th.</i>—<span class="smcap">Rose</span> two hours before daybreak in order to +arrive early at Ghat in the morning. About ten <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, +the palms of Ghat were visible through the scattered +blocks of rock in the valley, for the plain became now<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-2" id="V2-2"></a>[<a href="images/2-2.png">2</a>]</span> +contracted and assumed the shape of a deep broad +valley, on the one side a low range of sand-hills, and on +the other the high rocky chain of Wareerat. But the +first sight of the oasis, after nineteen weary days of +Desert, affected me with only disagreeable sensations. +The affair of Ouweek, though pretty well got over, had +shaken my confidence in the Touaricks. Indeed, the +painful forebodings of the last forty hours had seriously +deranged my plans, and made me think of returning, +availing myself the most of my unsuccessful tour. This +suffering of thought day after day is intense and worries +me, and will soon make me an old man, if not in years. +It was the sudden shock of the affair just after receiving +the messenger of peace from Ghat. I saw at once that +there was a great deal of insubordination in the lesser +chieftains, which made travelling in this country very +insecure. I remembered the remark of my taleb, "All +the Touaricks are the Divan, and each has his own +opinion, and carries it out in spite of the Sultan."</p> + +<p>We were now met by the friends of the Ghadamsee +merchants, but with the exception of Essnousee and two +or three others, I received few salutes of welcome; and +when we got up to the gates of the city (at noon), not +a single person of our caravan offered me the least +assistance, either in interpreting or otherwise. I felt +myself in a most deplorable predicament, but I reflected +that all men must each one look after his own business, +so our people were now each one occupied with his own +affairs. I felt much the want of a good Moorish or Arab +servant. Said was of no use whatever in this case. +Strangers and loungers crowded and clamoured round +me, anxious to look at the face of "The Christian." It<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-3" id="V2-3"></a>[<a href="images/2-3.png">3</a>]</span> +was covered with my travelling handkerchief, and when +I untied my face to gratify their curiosity, they burst out +with the rude and wild expression of surprise, "<i>Whooh! +Whooh! Whey!</i>" Amongst this mob I at once distinguished +a number of the Aheer and Soudan merchants. +These showed the greatest curiosity, but my outer dress +being entirely Moorish, there was little novelty in my +appearance, nay, scarcely any to point me out from the +rest of the caravan. Several of the Ghat people then +asked me what I wanted. I told them, the Governor of +Ghat. I was not understood. At last came up to me +a young Tripoline Moor of the name of Mustapha, who +volunteered his services as Touarghee and Arabic interpreter, +but, of course, our conversation was always in +Arabic. Amidst a cluster of Touaricks and Ghat townsmen, +the Governor was pointed out. Several Sheikhs +were present, but it appears they gave precedence to the +Governor's son from a feeling of shamefacedness. Haj +Ahmed's son is a very nice polite young gentleman, as +smart as a Parisian dandy. After a little delay he conducted +us to a house, in which some of his father's slaves +were living. It was a dark dreadful dilapidated hovel. +The young gentleman most earnestly apologized, protesting, +"The town is full of people, merchants, and +strangers. We have nothing better left in the town. +Perhaps you will come and live in our house out of the +town." We looked out our baggage, which had been +conveyed for us by Arabs of our caravan, and were astonished +to find it scattered about outside the city gates, +the caravan people having thrown it down there. However, +nothing was lost, and this at once impressed me +with the remarkable honesty of the Ghatee people. I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-4" id="V2-4"></a>[<a href="images/2-4.png">4</a>]</span> +took up my quarters in a small room built on the terrace, +without window or door, but very airy. A roof of +mud and straw was now a luxurious and splendid mansion +to me. At least a dozen slaves were occupied in +carrying my baggage from outside the gates to my +domicile, each carrying some trifle. No camels or beast +of burden are allowed to enter the city gates, all goods +and merchandize are carried by slaves in and out. Like +the porters at the different traveller-stations in Europe, +each of these slaves seized hold of the merest trifle of +baggage, a stick or a bit of cord, in order to make an +exorbitant demand of the value of a shilling. The +Desert furnishes a parallel for every circumstance of +civilized life.</p> + +<p>The last night or two I had found it very cold, and +the wind too high for tents. I may observe here, conveniently, +the cold was so great in this portion of Sahara, +that I never could undress myself for dread of the cold. +After loosening my neckcloth and shoes, I lay down in +the dress which I wore during the day. My bed was a +simple mattress laid over a piece of matting, which latter +was spread on the hard earth or sands of The Desert, as +it might be, with a small sofa cushion for a pillow. +After I had laid down the mattress, I then covered myself +up with a large woollen barracan or blanket, very +thick and heavy, and over this was also drawn a dark-blue +European cloak. The cloth distinguished my bed +from those of the merchants, and the nagah always +knew the encampment by the sight of this Christian +garment. When I wore it in the day she was immediately +sensible of the presence of her master. I did +not pitch a tent, for we could not, but formed a sort of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-5" id="V2-5"></a>[<a href="images/2-5.png">5</a>]</span> +head-place of the two panniers of the camel, over which +we arranged camel's gear, forming a small top. Under +this I placed or poked my head, so that, at night, if +turning over my face, I found a little shelter from the +naked cold heavens. In this way I lay enveloped in a +mass of clothing. I usually waked a couple of hours +before daybreak with the intensity of the cold. Said +slept closely by me on a lion's skin, and rolled himself +up in the slight canvass of the tent. Like myself he +never undressed himself at night. When he wished to +confer a favour upon any of his negro countrymen, or +the poor slaves, he would take them and roll them up +with him in this canvass. He would have sometimes +half a dozen at once with him, the confined air of their +united breathings keeping them mutually warm. The +poor Arab camel-drivers had nothing but their barracans +which they wore in the day to cover themselves up at +night, whilst the bare earth was their couch of down, +and a heap of stones their luxurious pillow. All these +Arabs were wandering wayfaring Jacobs of The Desert. +El-Aïshi says, speaking of the bleak wind of The Desert, +"The north wind blows in these places with an intensity +equalling the cold of hell; language fails me to express +this rigorous temperature." The Mohammedans believe +that the extremes of heat and cold meet in hell. Some +have thought there is an allusion to this in the words, +"Weeping and wailing and gnashing of teeth," (the teeth +chattering from cold.) Milton has also enumerated cold +as one of the torments of the lost. The tormented +spirits passed—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"O'er many a frozen, many a fiery, Alp."</span></div></div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-6" id="V2-6"></a>[<a href="images/2-6.png">6</a>]</span></p> + +<p>I had not been many minutes in my new apartment +before the Governor himself came in. I had been addressing +the young Ghatee as the Governor himself, like Goldsmith +harangued a duke's footman for the duke himself. +Haj Ahmed, his father, welcomed me with every demonstration +of hospitality. He sat chatting with me until +the arrival of the Sheikh Jabour, who also welcomed me +in the most friendly manner. This was the Sheikh who +had dispatched his slave to the well of Tadoghseen to +meet me. Two or three other Touaricks of distinction +came in with my friend Essnousee. They then questioned +me upon the conduct of Ouweek, the news of which had +now spread over all the town, and thanking Jabour for +sending his slave, he replied, smiling, "Ouweek was +joking with you." And then all joined in a laugh about +Ouweek's affair. Jabour, ashamed of the business, took +this method of easing my mind. The Governor now +began to ask me about news and politics, and how +Muley Abd Errahman was getting on with the French. +The burning of the French steamer on the coast of +Morocco after she grounded, had been transformed by +The Desert reports into a victory over the French, in +which the French had lost 70,000 men and several +ships. The Governor had also heard the Maroquine war +had recommenced. I excused my ignorance by saying, +I had been a long time in Ghadames, and had heard +nothing. Odd enough, the Governor asked me, "Which +was the oldest dynasty in Europe?" I told him the +Bourbons of France. The Sheikh Jabour here interposed +that his family was more than three thousand +years old! The pride of an hereditary <i>noblesse</i> is deeply<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-7" id="V2-7"></a>[<a href="images/2-7.png">7</a>]</span> +rooted in these Touarghee chiefs. The lore of ancestral +distinction is co-extensive with the human race. I have +given but the substance of our conversations. I give +some of it in detail:—</p> + +<p>Interrogation, <i>by the Governor</i>.</p> + +<p><i>His Excellency.</i>—"What did Ouweek to you?"</p> + +<p>"He was saucy to me."</p> + +<p><i>His Excellency.</i>—"Have you seen lately Muley Abd +Errahman (Emperor of Morocco)?"</p> + +<p>"No."</p> + +<p><i>His Excellency.</i>—"He has conquered the French, destroyed +their ships. They have lost 70,000 men. If +you had told Muley Abd Errahman you had been coming +here, he would have sent me a letter by you."</p> + +<p>"I have no doubt of it."</p> + +<p><i>His Excellency.</i>—"How is your Sultan?"</p> + +<p>"Very well, thank you?"</p> + +<p><i>His Excellency.</i>—"When did you last see Sidi Abd-el-Kader?"</p> + +<p>"Not very lately."</p> + +<p><i>His Excellency.</i>—"He is a prophet." (To which I +said, Amen.)</p> + +<p>Interrogatory, <i>by Sheikh Jabour</i>.</p> + +<p><i>The Sheikh.</i>—"What did Ouweek to you?"</p> + +<p>"He was very rude."</p> + +<p><i>The Sheikh.</i>—"Ouweek was playing with you, trying +to frighten you because you are a stranger. He's a fool +himself."</p> + +<p>"Oh, it's no matter now."<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-8" id="V2-8"></a>[<a href="images/2-8.png">8</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>The Sheikh.</i>—"How's your Sultan? Does he doubt +we shall utterly destroy the Shânbah."</p> + +<p>"Oh, not the least."</p> + +<p><i>The Sheikh</i> (in reply to the Governor).—"My fathers +were princes before all the Christian kings, thousands of +years ago."</p> + +<p>"I dare say they were."</p> + +<p>My visitors now took leave of me, Jabour shaking +hands with me, and saying, <i>Mā-tăhāfsh</i>, "don't fear." +Afterwards had a great many curious visitors of the +lower classes, all raving mad to see the <i>Roumee</i> ("Christian"). +And amongst the rest, the son of Ouweek! who +is a young harmless fellow, and said his father would +never hurt a great Christian like me. He begged hard +for a piece of sugar, which I gave him. He asked me if +his father was coming to Ghat. For supper I received +a splendid dish of meat and sopped bread, but very +highly seasoned with pepper and cloves. It is the Soudan +pepper, a small quantity of which possesses the most +violent, nay virulent strength.</p> + +<p><i>16th.</i>—After taking a walk in the morning, I returned +the visit of the Governor. He received me very politely, +and presented me with a lion's skin, brought from Soudan. +His Excellency shewed me his certificate of character +and rank, certified by a huge seal of the Emperor +of Morocco. He pointed out with conscious pride the +name of Marabout, with which sacred title the Emperor +had dubbed him. Muley Abd Errahman is an immense +favourite here amongst the Moorish townsmen. They +call him their Sultan. The Turks they fear and detest. +They expect them one day at Ghat. In the afternoon +I sent the Governor, according to the advice of Musta<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-9" id="V2-9"></a>[<a href="images/2-9.png">9</a>]</span>pha, +two loaves of sugar (French), a pound of cloves, +and a pound of sunbul<a name="FNa_2-1" id="FNa_2-1"></a><a href="#FoN_2-1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>. Cloves—<i>grunfel</i>, ‮قرنفل‬—are +greatly esteemed, especially by the women, who season +their cakes, cuskasous, and made-dishes with them. +The sunbul (leaves) is made into a decoction, or wash, +and is used by fashionable ladies in Sahara as eau de +Cologne in Europe.</p> + +<p>Afterwards I paid a visit to Sheikh Jabour. The +Sheikh has a house within the town, which very few of +the Sheikhs have. Jabour received me friendly. I could +not see the features of the Sheikh very well, on account +of his litham. Jabour, however, is a perfect aristocrat +in his way, with a very delicate hand. He is tall and +well-made, and his simple and elegant manners denote +at once "The Marabout Sheikh of the Touaricks," of the +most ancient and renowned of Touarghee families. I +took the Sheikh a present of a loaf of sugar, three +pounds of cloves and sunbul, and a shasheeah, or fez. +Jabour received them very graciously, and repeated his +<i>ma-tahafsh</i>, "don't fear," several times, promising me, +at the same time, to use his influence with his friends to +get me safely escorted to Aheer and Soudan. The +Sheikh's followers and other distinguished Touaricks repeat +the same, but the Governor I find more cautious +in his speech. On my return home, the Sheikh sent to +know if the handkerchief, in which the present was +wrapped, were also a present, and whether the bearer of +the present had purloined it, for he had taken it away<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-10" id="V2-10"></a>[<a href="images/2-10.png">10</a>]</span> +with him. I immediately sent the Sheikh back the +handkerchief, informing the Sheikh the bearer was not +told to leave it. All Saharan people are immoderately +fond of a handkerchief. I recommend travellers in +Sahara to supply themselves with a good stock of very +cheap coloured cotton handkerchiefs. My house is +thronged all day long with visitors. I am obliged to +exhibit myself to the people like the Fat Boy, or the +American Giant. It is Richardson's Show at Ghat instead +of Greenwich. The rest of the ghafalah, which we +left behind, arrived to-day. My friend, El-Besher, to +my regret, had turned suddenly back and gone to +Touat, where his brother had arrived from Timbuctoo. +It is reported that a quarrel had taken place about his +brother amongst the Timbuctoo caravan, in which affair +ten people had been killed. So all Saharan caravans do +not travel in such harmony as we did. The Ghadamsee +caravans are certainly the most pacific. But the Timbuctoo +people have everywhere a bad character.</p> + +<p><i>17th.</i>—In the morning went to see the Consul of the +Europeans, as the Moors call him. This is the Sheikh +Hateetah, of whom very honourable mention is made by +the Denham and Clapperton party. Hateetah himself +assumes the distinction of "Friend," or Consul of the English. +I found him stretched on a pallet upon the ground +floor, extremely unwell with fever, and surrounded by +his friends. He has just come from the country districts. +He asked me, "Is the Consul well? Are his daughters +well? Is the King of England well?" Hateetah had +some years ago visited the Consul and his family at Tripoli, +under British protection, for Touaricks dare not +approach Tripoli. He has in his possession, after a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-11" id="V2-11"></a>[<a href="images/2-11.png">11</a>]</span> +dozen years, a fine scarlet burnouse and coat, braided +with gold lace, and also a gun, which were presented to +him by Colonel Warrington, on the part of our Government, +for his services to our Bornou expedition. The +Sheikh told me he had besides a written certificate +from the Consul, but it was in the country. I am the +first person whom he has had an opportunity of serving +since his return from Tripoli, where he formally engaged, +on the part of the Touaricks, to give British subjects all +necessary protection in the Ghat districts. For this +reason he is styled, "The friend of the English." All +strangers here are placed under the care of one Sheikh +or another, to whom they make presents, but not to the +rest. Hateetah resides in the suburbs.</p> + +<p>During the past night was taken dreadfully ill, in the +stomach, by eating the high-seasoned dishes of the +Governor. After drinking olive-oil and vomiting, found +myself much better. People say oil is the best remedy +in such cases. The Governor was troubled at my illness, +and sent to ask whether he should send me some senna +tea. Wrote to-day to Mr. Alsager and Colonel Warrington. +The letters were to have been dispatched direct to +Tripoli, but the Touaricks would neither allow one +of their own people nor an Arab courier to go, giving as +the reason that Shafou, the Sultan, was not arrived. +Touaricks have a horror of Turks, and cannot bear to +have communication with them, and do everything in +their power to prevent others from communicating with +Tripoli. Not acquainted with Mediterranean politics, +they imagine that, because the Turks have retaken possession +of Ghadames and Fezzan, so long quasi-independent +of Tripoli, they must necessarily invade the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-12" id="V2-12"></a>[<a href="images/2-12.png">12</a>]</span> +Touarick territory, and seize upon their wee town of +Ghat, but to them the metropolis of The Sahara. This +evening Jabour hinted, in Hibernian style, to one of the +slaves waiting upon me, that his present of sugar was +rather small. I forthwith sent him two loaves more, +which rejoiced him so much that he exclaimed, "Thank +the Christian by G—d. Tell him he has nothing to fear +in Ghat, and he shall go safe to Soudan." Felt better +to-night. The Governor sent his last dish this evening. +A stranger of distinction is supplied with food for three +days. I have had my share of honour and hospitality, +and am glad of it. I shall now be cautious what I +eat. But I find everything is exceedingly dear, the +number of strangers, foreign merchants, and slaves, +is so unusually great as quickly to devour all the food +brought here.</p> + +<p>Yesterday I made the acquaintance of Haj Ibrahim, a +Moorish merchant resident in Tripoli, but a native of +Jerbah. When in Tripoli he acts as Consul for the Ghadamsee +merchants; his brother is now in charge. Mustapha +came with him direct from Tripoli, not passing +through Mourzuk, but <i>viâ</i> the oases of Fezzan to the +west. So an European agent established at Mourzuk, +cannot well collect a statistical account of trade, on +account of few Ghat caravans travelling the Mourzuk +route. Haj Ibrahim promises to be useful to me, and +has already sent a letter for me to Ghadames. This +merchant has brought the largest amount of goods to +the Souk, about forty camels. The whole of the Soudan +ghafalah has not yet arrived from Aheer. It comes in +by small detached parties. As there is nothing to fear +on the road, people prefer travelling in small companies,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-13" id="V2-13"></a>[<a href="images/2-13.png">13</a>]</span> +which facilitates their march, not being detained at the +wells waiting for the running of the water.</p> + +<p>I have <i>cut</i> in a certain way my old friends of the +Ghadamsee ghafalah. This has done them good, for +they now begin to return to me, and are polite. Before +they were all so frightened at the Touaricks, that I knew +if I did not cut them, they would cut me. Now, when +seeing the Touaricks are friendly, they are also friendly;—such +is the world of Sahara, as well as the world of +Paris or London. When a man has few friends he gets +less, when many he gets more. On the principle, I suppose, +that money gets money, and friendship friendship. +The Moors of the coast, of whom there are a few here, +exhibit more courage, and a bolder front to the Touaricks. +The worst of this place is, <i>The Rabble</i>. It is +the veritable Caboul, or Canton <i>Rabble</i>. Here's my +"great difficulty." They run after me, and even hoot +me in the streets. Were it not for this rabble, I could +walk about with the greatest freedom and safety, and +alone.</p> + +<p><i>18th.</i>—Went to see Haj Ibrahim. Sent the letter to +Mr. Alsager <i>viâ</i> Ghadames, the only letter I wrote from +Ghat during the fifty days of my residence here. In my +absence a loaf of sugar was stolen out of my apartment. +Suspicion falls upon a Fezzanee, whom I have employed, +and to whom I gave this very morning a quarter of a +dollar. These small loaves of French beet-root sugar +sell for two-thirds of a dollar in Ghat. Ouweek arrived +to-day from his district, after stopping for the rest of the +caravan to get what he could in the way of begging by +force. This is the cunning of the old fox bandit. He +knows he can beg more effectually from the merchant<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-14" id="V2-14"></a>[<a href="images/2-14.png">14</a>]</span> +and trader in the open desert, than at Ghat, where people +may refuse, and do refuse to satisfy his importunities. I +have done so with the rest. He now pretends he was +only playing with me, and that he would have let me +pass through his district though I had given him nothing. +Can we believe him? Jabour says in turn:—"I will +make Ouweek restore the goods which he has extorted +by violence from the Christian." There is no doubt +Shafou will reprimand the bandit when he arrives. But +I do not ask or expect the restoration of such a few +trifling things. In this country, as the Governor says, +"full of Sheiks," where authority is so divided, and the +Sultan's power is so feeble, we must expect this sort of +freebooting extortion. Such were the good and fine old +days of chivalry in France and England, so much +regretted by certain morbid romancers, Sir Walter Scott +to boot, when a baron made a foray upon a neighbouring +baron's people, and shut himself up with the booty in his +castle, defying equally his plundered neighbour and his +sovereign. But if in the comparison there is any declination +of the balance, it is in favour of the Touaricks, +for these Sheikhs, governing their respective districts with +a <i>quasi</i>-independent authority, are now living in profound +peace and harmony with one another.</p> + +<p>Had a visit from some score of Touarick women, of all +complexions, tempers, and ages. After staring at me +for some time with amazed curiosity and silence, they +became restless. Not knowing what to do with them, I +took out a loaf of white sugar, cut it into pieces, and +then distributed it amongst them. The scene now suddenly +changed, joy beamed in every eye, and every one +let her tongue run most volubly. They asked me,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-15" id="V2-15"></a>[<a href="images/2-15.png">15</a>]</span> +"Whether I was married—whether the Christian women +were pretty—whether prettier than they—and whether, +if not married, I should have any objection to marry one +of them?" To all which questions I answered in due +categorical form:—"I was not married—the Christian +women were pretty, but they, the Touarick women, were +prettier than Christian women—and, lastly, I should see +whether I would marry one of them when I came from +Soudan." These answers were perfectly satisfactory. +But then came a puzzler. They asked me, "Which was +the prettiest amongst them?" I looked at one, and +then at another, with great seriousness, assuming very +ungallant airs, (the women the meanwhile giggling and +coquetting, and some throwing back their barracans, +shawls I may call them, farther from their shoulders, +baring their bosoms in true ball-room style,) and, at last, +falling back, and shutting my eyes, placing my left hand +to my forehead, as if in profound reflection, I exclaimed +languidly, and with a forced sigh, "Ah, I can't tell, you +are all so pretty!" This created an explosion of mirth, +some of the more knowing ones intimating by their +looks, "It's lucky for you that you have got out of the +scrape." But an old lady, close by me, was very angry +with me;—"You fool, Christian, take one of the young +ones; here's my daughter." It is necessary to explain, +that the woman of the Touaricks is not the woman of +the Moors and Mussulmans generally. She has here +great liberty, walks about unveiled, and takes an active +part in all affairs and transactions of life. Dr. Oudney +justly remarks, "The liveliness of the women, their freeness +with the men, and the marked attention the latter +paid them, formed a striking contrast with other Moham<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-16" id="V2-16"></a>[<a href="images/2-16.png">16</a>]</span>medan +States." Batouta mentions a Berber tribe of +Western Sahara, as having similar manners. He says:—"This +people has very singular manners. So the men +are not at all jealous of their women. The women +are not at all embarrassed in the presence of the men; +and though they, the women, are very assiduous at their +prayers, they appear always uncovered." He adds, that +certain women, of free manners, are shared amongst the +people without exciting the feelings of jealousy amongst +the men. It is the same with the Touaricks, but it is +the absence of this Mussulman, or <i>oriental</i> jealousy, of +husbands of their wives, which distinguishes the Touaricks +from other Mahometans of North Africa, and connects +the social condition of the Touaricks more with European +society. On departing, I gave the Touarick ladies +some pins, and they, not knowing how to use them, (for +pins are never imported into The Desert, though needles +in thousands,) I taught them a good practical lesson by +pinning two of them together by their petticoats, which +liberty, on my part, I need not tell the reader, increased +the mirth of this merry meeting of Touarghee ladies prodigiously. +I certainly felt glad that we could travel in a +country and laugh and chat with, and <i>look at</i> the women +without exciting the intolerable jealousy of the men. I +think there is not a more dastardly being than a jealous +husband. Amongst the Moors a traveller does not know +whether he can venture to speak to a man's wife or not, +or whether he can make her the most trifling present in +return for the supper which she may cook.</p> + +<p>Afterwards had a very different visit of four Arabs, +who came with the evident intention of getting something +out of me by main force. I resisted to the last, and to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-17" id="V2-17"></a>[<a href="images/2-17.png">17</a>]</span> +their astonishment. I told them, all my presents were +now for the Touaricks, and if they did not leave the +house I would get them bastinadoed on their return to +The Mountains. The worst class of people which I have +met with, since I left Tripoli, are <i>some</i> of these Arabs, +who are the most dogged brazen-faced beggars and +spongers, banditti in the open day. Yesterday arrived +the powerful Aheer camel-driver and conducteur Kandarka +Bou Ahmed, the <i>Kylouwee</i>, whose arrival produced +a sensation. Some call him a Sheikh. He usually conducts +the Ghadamsee merchants between this and Aheer, +and as far as Kanou. It is an established custom or +law, in The Desert, that the people of each district or +country shall enjoy the privilege of conducting the +caravans. The Touaricks of Ghat conduct the merchants +from Ghadames to Ghat, and the Touaricks of +Aheer the merchants from Ghat to Aheer, and so of the +rest of the route, as far as Kanou, the final destination of +the Soudan caravan.</p> + +<p>My Ghadamsee friend Bel Kasem came up to me today, +and whispered in my ear the question, "If slaves +would be allowed to be sold now in the market of +Tripoli?" I answered frankly in the affirmative, but +added, "I did not think it would last much longer." +All the merchants now look upon me as an anti-slavery +agent. The affair of Silva and Levi, if it prejudice the +people against me on one side, gives me some consequence +on the other, on account of the steps which the British +Consul took against those merchants, or caused them to +take. I went to see Bel Kasem in the evening, who is +but a mere trader. He gave me this account of his +slave-dealing:—"I have purchased five slaves at forty<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-18" id="V2-18"></a>[<a href="images/2-18.png">18</a>]</span> +mahboubs each. At Tripoli I shall sell them at sixty. +The Pasha takes ten duty, and I have only ten for profit +and the expenses, of conveying the slaves from Ghat to +Tripoli, feeding them as well here as there. What, where +is my profit?" I echoed, "Where?" This is a fair +specimen of the market. He complains of the dearness +of the slaves, although an unusual number, more than a +thousand, have been brought to the Souk or Mart. Haj +Ibrahim and some other large purchasers have greatly +and unexpectedly increased the demand. He says Haj +Ibrahim purchases large quantities of goods on credit, or +for bills of six and nine months from European merchants +in Tripoli. These he exchanges against slaves in +Ghat, and then returns and sells his slaves, and pays the +bills as they come due. In this way, it will be seen, +the Desert slave-traffic is carried on upon the shoulders +of European merchants. Haj Ibrahim considers his +profits at twenty per cent. The people say he gets +more. My friend, the Arab of Derge, called late, to +borrow five dollars of me. He said, "I have purchased +a slave for twenty-five dollars; at present I have only +twenty. You and I, Yâkob, have been always friends. +Lend me five dollars and I will pay you in a few days. +The slave is a little old but cheap, he is to work in the +gardens at Ghadames." I then explained to him the +law of England on slavery, which greatly surprised +him. The next day this Derge Arab brought in another +fellow to ask me to lend him money to buy a slave, +just to see whether I should make the same reply to him +also.</p> + +<p><i>19th.</i>—Rose early, and better in health. I begin to +feel at home in Ghat, amidst the redoubtable Touaricks.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-19" id="V2-19"></a>[<a href="images/2-19.png">19</a>]</span> +I find them neither monsters nor men-eaters<a name="FNa_2-2" id="FNa_2-2"></a><a href="#FoN_2-2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>. Nevertheless, +all the swaggering Arabs and Arab camel-drivers +are here very quiet and civil amongst their masters, the +Touaricks. I frequently bully them now about their +past boasting and present cowardice. Two of the Arabs +who had attempted to extort a present from me I met at +Haj Ibrahim's house. I lectured them roundly, telling +them I would report them to the Pasha, for they were +greater banditti than the Touaricks. This had a salutary +effect. I was not troubled afterwards with these brazen-faced +begging Arabs.</p> + +<p>This morning paid another visit to Haj Ahmed, the +Governor. Found him very friendly. He talked politics. +I explained to him the circumstances of the war between +France and Morocco, suppressing the most disagreeable +parts for a Mahometan. In the course of conversation I +was surprised to hear from Haj Ahmed, "Now, since +these twelve years, Tripoli belongs to the English." I +used vainly all my eloquence in Arabic to convince him +of this error, which has been propagated since the removal +of Asker Ali from the Pashalic of Tripoli at the +instance of the British Consul. I then spoke to his +Excellency of the necessity of sending some trifling presents +to the Queen of England, as a sign of friendship, +begging him to speak to Shafou. He replied, "The<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-20" id="V2-20"></a>[<a href="images/2-20.png">20</a>]</span> +Touaricks have nothing but camels." The Governor has +a tremendous family. First of all, he has seven wives +and concubines, then nine sons and six daughters. One +of his female slaves repeated to me all their names, a +complete muster-roll. When I visited the Governor +again, I congratulated him upon having so large a family. +He observed smiling, with great self-complacency, "Why, +Yâkob, do you call this a large family? What is a large +family with you?" I told him eight and even six children +was a large family. At this he affected great surprise, +for he had heard that generally European females have +three or four children at a birth. Haj Ahmed is a man +of about fifty, rather good-looking, stout and hard-working, +but inclining to corpulency, very unusual in The +Desert. He is not very dark, and is of Arab extraction, +and boasts that his family came from Mecca or Medina. +He pretends that his ancestors were amongst the warriors +who besieged Constantinople, previous to its capture by +the Turks. He is a native of Touat, but has been +settled here twenty years, where he has built himself a +palace and planted large gardens. He is a shrewd and +politic man, and has, in a certain degree, those jealous +feelings of Christians which are peculiar to the Moor. +He dresses partly in the Moorish and partly in the +Touarick style, indeed, like all the Moors of Ghat, who +are called Ghateen. He is, perhaps, not very learned, +but is assisted by his nephew, a young Shereef of great +learning and amiable manners. I asked some of the +Ghatee people, who was their Sultan? They replied, +"Haj Ahmed; Shafou is not our Sultan." The Touaricks, +however, have absolute control over all affairs, and Haj +Ahmed stands in the same relation to Shafou, being<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-21" id="V2-21"></a>[<a href="images/2-21.png">21</a>]</span> +governor of the town, as the Sheikh El-Mokhtar, who is +governor of Timbuctoo, under the Sultan of Jinnee. But, +Haj Ahmed, himself, disclaims all temporal authority, he +repeatedly says in our conversation, "I am not Sheikh, +or Kaëd, I'm only Marabout. All the people here are +equal. When you write to the Consul, tell him I'm only +Marabout." The fact is, there are so many Sheikhs here +that it is no honour to be a Sheikh. The honour is too +cheap to be valued, and is as much repudiated as a +French Cross of the Legion of Honour. Haj Ahmed +repudiates being a Sheikh most stoutly. Notwithstanding +this repudiation, the Marabout is obliged to decide +upon the affairs of the city, even when Shafou is in +town. The Marabout pretends he does not receive presents +like the Sheikhs, but he always received what I +offered him, and which was more than what I gave to some +of the Sheikhs. His palace stands west, two-thirds of a +mile from the city walls. Here he reigns supreme, priest +and king, as Melchisedech of patriarchal times, surrounded +with his numerous family of wives and concubines, and +about fifty male and female slaves. Some of the slaves +live in huts near his palace, or in the gardens. The +Marabout is the largest landed proprietor of Ghat, but +he also trades a good deal, and is now sending some of +his children to Soudan to trade in slaves.</p> + +<p>Yesterday evening Mohammed Kāfah sent me a bowl +of sopped bread, fat, and gravy, garnished with two or +three little pieces of meat. This is the first act and +specimen of hospitality on the part of the townsmen. +Kafah is a considerable merchant, and one of the three +or four grandees of the place. Bel Kasem called out to +me to-day, for he lives next door, "Yâkob! Yâkob!<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-22" id="V2-22"></a>[<a href="images/2-22.png">22</a>]</span> +Aye! for God's sake, one of my slaves is ill, bring me +some medicine to purge him, quick, quick, he'll die." I +had nothing to give the poor creature but a worm-powder, +ordering half the quantity, all my medicines being distributed, +except those for the eyes. Undoubtedly many +of the slaves must die before they arrive in Tripoli. +They are mostly fed on dates, the profit of the commerce +is so small as not to allow wholesome food being given +them. The slaves are brought from countries teeming +with plenty of meat, grain, and vegetables, whilst they +are fed with herbage and dates <i>en route</i> from Aheer to +Ghat. What wonder then they die?</p> + +<p>Every body, as was the case at Ghadames, high and +low, rich and poor, young and old, wishes to convert me +into a good Mussulman, being mortified that so quiet a +Christian should be an infidel. An old Sheikh paid me +a visit to-day, and began, "Now, Christian, that you +have come into this country, I hope you will find everything +better than in your own country, and become a +Mussulman, one loved of God. Come to my house, +leave your infidel father and mother. I have two daughters. +I will give you both for wives, and seven camels +besides. This will make you a Sheikh amongst us. +You can also be a Marabout, and spend your life in +prayer." I excused myself, by saying, "I had engagements +in my country. My Sultan would brand me with +disgrace, and I should be fetched out of this country by +the Turks, who were always the friends of the English." +The Sheikh sighed, raised up his aged body, and departed, +mumbling something, a blessing or a curse, upon +my head. A younger son of Haj Ahmed came in and +addressed me, "Why not say, 'There is one God<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: added missing quotation mark">'</ins>, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-23" id="V2-23"></a>[<a href="images/2-23.png">23</a>]</span> +'Mahomet is the prophet of God?'" I told him a Christian +was prohibited from making such a confession. On +paying a visit to Mohammed Kafah, who sent me the +supper, I found his house full of slaves and Soudan +goods, and he himself very busy in the midst of them. +He received me very friendly, and, after a little, said, +"It would be better for you if you turned Mussulman. +Do you not wish to go to Paradise? A slave of ours is +better than you, and your estate." To turn the conversation, +I observed (which I knew would excite his mercantile +lust, despite his orthodox zeal), "I hear you are +vastly rich, the richest merchant in Ghat." "Ah!" he +replied, distending into consequence, "but the Christians +have all the money." I rejoined, "If there were a +better Government in Tripoli, the Mussulmans would +have more money." Asking about the arrival of Shafou, +he observed, "Haj Ahmed is our Sultan. I'm not a +Touarick. God help if I were a Touarick." He then +took me by the hands, and led me to the women's apartments +to show me to his wife and daughters. The good +wife, after handling my hands, which were a little whiter +and cleaner than what are generally seen in The Desert, +for to have hands with a layer of dirt upon them of +several months' collecting, is an ordinary circumstance,—exclaimed, +"Dear-a-me, dear-a-me, how wonderful, and +this Christian doesn't know God!" Her husband shook +his head negatively. The court-yard of his house was +soon filled and crammed with people, who rushed in from +the streets, and the friendly Ghatee was obliged to send +me home quick, lest I should be smothered by a mob of +people. The affair of Silva and Levi had reached him, +and the report will soon get to Soudan and Timbuctoo,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-24" id="V2-24"></a>[<a href="images/2-24.png">24</a>]</span> +for the merchants carry everything with them which interests +their commerce, making additions as they go along. +Here, as at Mogador, it was reported that I was commissioned +by the Sultan of England to buy up and liberate +all the slaves. On returning home, I had another posse +of visitors, and some of Haj Ahmed's sons, who came +with the fixed determination to convert me. One said, +on my admiring his Soudan coloured frock, "If you will +become a Mussulman, I will give you one." I now felt +myself obliged to rebut some of this impertinence, and +answered, "If you would give me all the frocks of Soudan +I would not change my religion." I then addressed them +sharply against wishing to alter the decrees of God, +turning the dogmas of their religion upon themselves, +and quoted the Koran,—</p> + +<p>"Thou wilt not find out any means of enlightening +him whom God delivers over to error."</p> + +<p>Immediately, this unexpected style of argument struck +them dumb. After recovering their senses they became +restless to leave me, and began to beg a few things. I +gave them some sugar and cake, and we parted apparent +friends. On going out, they could not forbear asking +Said if he was a Mussulman. Like many other Moslemites +of Sahara, they said, "The Turks are not good +Mussulmans." I replied, "Mustapha, the Bey of Ghadames, +is a better Mussulman than any of the Ghadamsee +people."</p> + +<p>The reader may disapprove of my conduct in these +my frequent evasions of the question of religion; but +when they reflect that it required, during my residence +in Ghat and other parts of Sahara, the whole strength +of my mind, and the utmost tact, to maintain a simple<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-25" id="V2-25"></a>[<a href="images/2-25.png">25</a>]</span> +and consistent confession of myself as a Christian, and +that to have said a word, or even to have breathed a +syllable of disrespect for Mahomet and his religion, +would have exposed me to be torn to pieces by the rabble, +and perhaps murdered in my bed, they will probably +feel less disposed to censure my conduct. If there be +any doubt of this critical situation of an European who +travels openly and avows himself a Christian in The +Sahara, all I can do is to beg of the doubter to make +the experiment himself. The reader will also be pleased +to recollect, that the Denham and Clapperton party, +though they travelled the safest routes of Sahara, were +protected by the Bashaw of Tripoli, and their safety +was guaranteed solemnly to our Government, as being +the immediate agents and representatives of the British +nation; and, finally, they had a large escort of Arab +cavalry from Fezzan to Bornou. Yet these tourists, +surrounded with such protection, were actually circumcised +at Tripoli by Dr. Dickson<a name="FNa_2-3" id="FNa_2-3"></a><a href="#FoN_2-3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>, and were accustomed +to attend the mosques and perform prayer as Mussulmans. +Colonel Warrington certainly told me the people +saw through all the mummery, and laughed, or were +angry. As to the Frenchman, Caillié, his eternal tale +of fabrication, repeated every day, and every hour of +the day, to every Sheikh, and every merchant, camel-driver, +and slave of The Desert, produces a very painful +impression on the mind of the reader. Caillié's falsehood, +as lie begets lie, begat many others. He was +obliged to tell the people, that Mahometans were not +tolerated in Christian countries. He told the Africans,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-26" id="V2-26"></a>[<a href="images/2-26.png">26</a>]</span> +also, that slavery was abolished in Europe, at the time +even when England had her thousands of West Indian +slaves. In this way, whatever service Caillié has rendered +to geography, he has damaged the moral interests +of the world. The African Mussulmans might say to +future tourists, "If Christians tolerate not us, why +should we Mussulmans tolerate you," and assassinate the +luckless European tourist. Whatever, then, were my +evasions on the question of religion (and I sincerely +confess I do not approve of them), I never stooped to +such folly, and so far disgraced my character as an Englishman +and a Christian, as to adopt the creed and character +of a Mahometan. I moreover, on reflecting upon +the tremendous question, which I often revolved in my +painful journeying over The Desert—determined at all +events, at all costs, come what might, I would never +profess myself a Mussulman, if it were even to save my +head. I thought the least I could do was to imitate the +noble example, which The Desert reports of Major Laing—Sooner +than forswear my religion, be it good or bad, +it was better to die! "Mental reservation" may be good +for the Jesuits and papists<a name="FNa_2-4" id="FNa_2-4"></a><a href="#FoN_2-4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>, who misquote the conduct +of Jacob to Esau, but it is neither fit for a Christian, or +a patriot, or, at any rate, for an honest man, who was, +is, and ever will be,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The noblest work of God."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>Spent the evening with Haj Ibrahim. A Ghadamsee +came in who attempted to frighten me from going to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-27" id="V2-27"></a>[<a href="images/2-27.png">27</a>]</span> +Soudan. Haj Ibrahim has the same prejudices as the +rest of the people of Tripoli respecting the supposed +wealth of the Ghadamsee people. "They have plenty +of money but conceal it. Sheikh Makouran has abundance +of gold, but he cunningly professes himself a poor +man." I have lately read in a work published by the +French Government, that once upon a time, a son of old +Yousef Bashaw sacked Ghadames and carried off "several +camel-loads of gold."</p> + +<p>The Touarick mode of saluting is very simple and +elegant, but cold, colder than that of the English. A +Touarghee elevates deliberately the right hand to a level +with his face, turning the outspread palm to the individual, +and slowly but with a fine intonation says, +"<i>Sălām Aleikoum.</i>" This is all. When using his own +language, a few words are added. How strikingly contrasted +are the habits of different people. Amongst the +Moors and Arabs this mode of saluting is their way of +cursing. With the outspread hand menacingly raised, a +man or woman puts their enemy under the ban and +curse of God. A vulgar interpretation is, that it means +"five in your eye;" but this custom of cursing is so +remote as not now to be explained. The door-posts and +rooms of houses are imprinted with the outspread hand +to prevent or withstand "the eye-malign" from glancing +on them and the inhabitants its fatal influence.</p> + +<p><i>20th.</i>—Rose early, felt better in health to-day. Am, +however, annoyed, but from what cause I cannot tell. +Entertain many misgivings about the climate of Soudan, +and having no medicine dispirits me. It is now too late +to retreat. "Onward" is the only destiny which guides +men, to good or evil. Had a visit from the eldest son<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-28" id="V2-28"></a>[<a href="images/2-28.png">28</a>]</span> +of the Governor. Gave him two cups of tea, a little +sugar, and two biscuits, which made him my friend for +ever; a cheap purchase of eternal friendship. Shafou, +he says, will not come before the whole of the Soudan +ghafalahs arrive, of which there are still some portions +lagging behind. A Soudan caravan, as all Desert caravans, +is an <i>omnibus</i>; it collects parties of merchants all +along the line of route, and distributes them in the same +way, but having a starting-post and a goal. Haj +Ahmed's son wished to introduce the question of religion. +"The world is nothing and Paradise is every thing." +"Amen," I replied. "What do you think of Mahomet?" +"The Mahometans have Mahomet, the Jews Moses, and +the Christians Jesus, each for their prophet," I said, after +which not very satisfactory answer to him, the conversation +dropped. He now inquired if I had written to +Tripoli to bring plenty of sugar and tea, with a latent +desire for a portion of the spoil. I told him "No," very +emphatically.</p> + +<p>Called at my neighbour's, Bel Kasem, and found him +doctoring a poor negress girl. She could neither eat nor +drink, she vomited and purged, her bones were nearly +through her skin, her stomach empty and dried up as +a sun-dried water-skin. Bel Kasem was rubbing her +all over with oil. He asked me for medicine. I said, +"Give her something good to eat." He replied, "I have +nothing." "What do you eat yourself?" I asked. +"Bread and bazeen," he replied. "Give her that," I +rejoined. He hesitated to reply, did not reply; I saw +he considered such food too good for a slave, even to +save its life. Such is but one dark sad picture of a +thousand now being exhibited here! One would think<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-29" id="V2-29"></a>[<a href="images/2-29.png">29</a>]</span> +God had made one part of the human race to torment +the other.</p> + +<p>Spent the evening with Haj Ibrahim. A merchant +in his house related that Noufee was now convulsed with +a civil war. This country is now in the hands of the +Fullans. He had often visited that country, and had +seen English people there. A large caravan has this +winter left Mourzuk for Kanou <i>viâ</i> Aheer. Haj Ibrahim +pretends that the Touaricks of Aheer are better than +those of Ghat, but the former are people of the country +(or peasants), not towns. The Haj has not begun to +dispose of his goods, but he will exchange them against +slaves. He, however, as a subject of Tunis, is virtually +prohibited by the Bey's ordinances.</p> + +<p>My most friendly visitors are the merchants and traders +from Soudan, Kanou, and Sukatou. I cannot help looking +upon these people with profound pity. They bring +their sable brethren, of the same flesh and blood, and +barter them away for trumpery beads, coarse paper, and +cloth, &c. They little think, that for such trifles, what +miseries they inflict upon their helpless brethren! A +Kanou merchant, in a friendly manner, recommended me +not to go to Soudan, adding, "The Touaricks of Aheer +would butcher me because I was a Christian." A similar +recommendation is being given me by the Arabs, Ghadames +people, and others. Still there is a great variety +of opinions, <i>pros</i> and <i>cons</i>, on this subject.</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i>—Rose early, improved in health. A small bird, +not much bigger than a wren, flits about the houses as +our sparrows. This is probably the Jereed sparrow of +Shaw, <i>Bou Habeeba</i>, or <i>Capsa</i>-sparrow, but I saw it at +no other oasis except Ghat. It is of a lark colour, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-30" id="V2-30"></a>[<a href="images/2-30.png">30</a>]</span> +a light reddish breast, flitting about continually, twittering +a short and abrupt note, but very sweet and gentle. +Yesterday Haj Ahmed sent me a few dates and a little +milk. To-day the Governor paid me a formal visit. +He was polite and friendly. However, he observed, "If +you, Yâkob, had brought a few presents for the Touarghee +chiefs they would all have known<a name="FNa_2-5" id="FNa_2-5"></a><a href="#FoN_2-5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> you, but you have +come without any thing, with empty hands." I replied +that I did not expect to come to Ghat when I left +Tripoli. Nevertheless, if the Touarick chiefs were +friendly, and would protect Englishmen in The Desert, +both the people and Government of England would, I +was quite sure, acknowledge the protection with suitable +presents. He was satisfied with the explanation. Some +of our caravan had told him I had come with nothing, +and had overrated my poverty as some tourists have their +riches overrated. But this report of abject poverty was +a great advantage to me. He was greatly surprised +when I told him the Sultan of the English was a woman. +I explained, as I had done at Ghadames, when the +kings of our country had no sons, but had daughters, +the daughters became sovereigns. My vanity was somewhat +piqued at the Governor's direct allusion to presents, +and I determined, that he himself, at any rate, should +have as large a present from me as he got from any of +the foreign merchants. He then asked me if I was an +English Marabout. I replied, "Yes;" for a Marabout, +as in the Governor's own case, means sometimes a person +who can tolerably read and write. In this sense I may +claim the sacred title. I also dub myself occasionally<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-31" id="V2-31"></a>[<a href="images/2-31.png">31</a>]</span> +<i>tabeeb</i> (doctor), but mostly <i>taleb</i>, a mere literary man or +pretender to literature. I believe that coming without +arms, and as poor as possible, has had a good effect upon +the Touaricks. They see, if they were so disposed, they +cannot maltreat a man in my circumstances with a very +good grace. I have still left, very fortunately, a supply +of eye-water, and am making presents of it daily. This +solution keeps my medical diploma clean and fair in +Ghat.</p> + +<p>Had another visit from the family of the Governor. +All aspire to religious discussion. Addressing me, +"Which way do you pray, east or west?" said another +of his sons. "I pray in all directions, for God is everywhere." +"You ought to pray in the east." "No, for +The Koran says, 'The east and the west belong to God, +wherever you turn you find the face of God<a name="FNa_2-6" id="FNa_2-6"></a><a href="#FoN_2-6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>.'" He +continued, "You are idolaters, why do you pray to +images?" "The English people do not pray to images," +I rejoined. As he doubted my word, I was obliged to +enter into explanations of the customs of Romanists and +Protestants. It is amusing or lamentable to think, as +we may sneer at or regret the matter, that these rude +children of The Desert should have ground for charging +upon the high-bred and <i>transcendantally</i>-polished nations +of Europe, idolatry. But, if any one, determined to +be an impartial judge, were to visit the Madelaine of +Paris, and then pass rapidly over to Algeria, (a journey +of a few days), and there enter the simple mosque, and +compare its prostrate worshippers, in the plain unadorned +temple of Islamism, with the bowing and crossing, going<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-32" id="V2-32"></a>[<a href="images/2-32.png">32</a>]</span> +on before the pretty saints and images of the Catholic +temple of the Parisians, he could not fail to be struck +with the immeasurable space which separates the two +<i>cultes</i>, whilst the contrast, so far as the eternal records +of nature, impressed upon and read in the page of +creation, are involved, would be all in favour of the +Moslemite deist, and pity and folly would be mingled +with his ideas when appreciating the papistical <i>quasi</i>-idolator.</p> + +<p>A young Touarghee came in with the party, whose +eyes were very bad. After a good deal of persuasion, +for he was at first quite frightened at me, he consented +to allow me to apply the caustic. He is a follower of +Sheikh Jabour, and employed near the person of the +Sheikh. To show how smoothly things go after the +first difficulty is vanquished, I may mention, that he +visited me ever after whilst I remained in Ghat, sometimes +coming every day, and always begging his eyes +might be washed with the solution. I had another visit +from the Soudan traders. They say people just like +me come up to Noufee to where they are now returning. +They speak Arabic very imperfectly, and are +obliged to converse with signs. They describe thousands +of slaves being carried away by men with +white cheeks and hands like myself, putting their hands +round their wrists and their necks to show how the +slaves were ironed. These slaves are carried down +the Niger to the salt water (Atlantic). I asked them +how the slaves were obtained. One of them sprung up +in an instant, seizing an Arab's gun. He then performed +a squatting posture, skulking down, and creeping +upon the floor of my room, and waiting or watching<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-33" id="V2-33"></a>[<a href="images/2-33.png">33</a>]</span> +in silence. He then made a sudden spring, as a tiger +on its prey, with a wild shout. These wily antics evidently +denoted a private kidnapping expedition. Many +slaves are, however, captives of war, for the negro +princes are as fond of war as the military nations of +France and Prussia, and can play at soldiers as well as +the King of Naples. Evening, as usual, paid a visit +to Haj Ibrahim. Nothing new, except an economical +bill of expenses, from Ghat to Soudan, chalked out for +me by a Ghadamsee, in prospect of my journey, +viz:—</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Presents to chiefs"> +<tr><td align='left'>Presents, <i>en route</i>, to various chiefs</td><td align='right'>13</td><td align='left'>dollars.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wheat and bread</td><td align='right'>5</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Olive-oil and <i>semen</i> (liquid butter)</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extras and unforseen expenses</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='left'>——</td><td align='left'> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Total</td><td align='right'>22</td><td align='left'> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='left'>——</td><td align='left'> </td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>This, I imagine, is about what it would cost him himself, +though he pretended to allow a little more for me. +These 22 dollars are to carry a person two months +over Sahara and one over Negroland to Kanou. It will +be seen there is nothing down for meat, or sugar, and +tea and coffee, in which luxuries Saharan merchants +rarely indulge.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-1" id="FoN_2-1"></a><a href="#FNa_2-1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> <i>Sunbul</i>—‮سنبل‬—(literally "stalks"). According to French +Oriental botanists, it is "<i>Nard, spina celtica</i>." An immense quantity +of this fashionable plant is brought into The Desert. No present +is made to a man of family without sunbul.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-2" id="FoN_2-2"></a><a href="#FNa_2-2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Nor are they <i>Anthropoklephts</i>, as a late Yankee Consul, in his +"Notes on North Africa," &c., calls them. Before Mr. Hodgson +stigmatizes the Touaricks as men-stealers, he should see that his +own States are pure. The reader will agree with me, after hearing +further of the Touaricks, that these free sons of The Sahara have +every right to say to Mr. Hodgson, and all American Consuls—"Physician, +heal thyself: do not charge us with men-stealing when +you buy and sell and rob human beings of their liberty."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-3" id="FoN_2-3"></a><a href="#FNa_2-3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> I speak on the authority of Mr. Gagliuffi, our Vice-Consul at +Mourzuk.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-4" id="FoN_2-4"></a><a href="#FNa_2-4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> And even those who take an oath of <i>et ceteras</i> at the National +Universities! And others who subscribe to creeds which they do +not read, or if read them, do not comprehend them.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-5" id="FoN_2-5"></a><a href="#FNa_2-5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> That is, being on friendly terms with you.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-6" id="FoN_2-6"></a><a href="#FNa_2-6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> See Surat ii., intitled "The Cow."</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-34" id="V2-34"></a>[<a href="images/2-34.png">34</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> + +<h3>RESIDENCE IN GHAT.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Gloves an enigma of Wonder.—Visit Sheikh Hateetah.—All Men +equal at Ghat.—Crowds of People surrounding my House to see +me.—Violent Act committed on a Man at Prayer in the +Mosque.—Extent of European Literature known at Ghat.—Continue +unwell.—Ouweek's public Apology.—Dances of the +Slaves.—A Saharan <i>Emeute</i>.—Arrival of Caravans.—Return +the Visit of the Governor.—Europe, a cluster of innumerable +Islets.—Who has most Money, Christians or Mahometans?—People +more used to my presence in Ghat.—The Prophet of the +Touaricks.—Visit from Aheer Touaricks.—The Governor's +petty dealing.—The Shereef of Moorzuk.—Visit from Jabour.—Beginning +Soudanic Cottons.—Visits from Kandarka and +Zoleâ.—Route from Ghat to Alexandria, and its distance.—The +Shereef of Medina.—Character and influence of Khanouhen, +heir-apparent of the Touarghee Throne of the Azgher Touaricks, +and his arrival in Ghat.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>22nd.</i>—<span class="smcap">Have</span> considerable pain in my stomach with +change of diet. Did not go out yesterday and the day +before in the day-time, on account of the rabble who +follow so close at my heels, that my guides and protectors +can't keep them off. Sent a <i>shumlah</i> ("sash") +to Haj Ahmed, the Governor, this morning. He expressed +himself highly gratified. This makes the Governor's +present about five dollars more than he gets +from any of the merchants. The richest and most +powerful merchants don't give more, and some of them +not half this amount. I have already given away 20 +dollars out of my extremely modest resources.</p> + +<p>Nothing surprises the natives of Ghat and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-35" id="V2-35"></a>[<a href="images/2-35.png">35</a>]</span> +Touaricks so much as my gloves. I am obliged to put +them off and on a hundred times a day to please people. +They then try them on, look at them inside and outside, +in every shape and way, expressing their utter astonishment +by the most sacred names of Deity. Some, +also, have not seen stockings before, and examine them +with much wonderment. But the gloves carry the palm +in exciting the emotion of the terrible. One said, after +he had put the glove on his hand, "Ah! ah! Whey! +whoo! that's the hand of the Devil himself!"</p> + +<p>The <i>Souk</i> or mart has now fairly begun. Merchants +are desperately busy buying and selling, chiefly exchanging +goods against slaves. All complain of the +dearness of slaves.</p> + +<p>Afternoon visited Sheikh Hateetah, "Friend" or +"Consul" of the English. Found him still unwell; he +complains of pain in his bowels. This is the case with +most people in Ghat, myself amongst the rest. It +cannot be the water, for it is the purest and sweetest of +The Desert. Prescribed a little medicine for the Sheikh, +who promises to introduce me to Sultan Shafou when +he arrives. Returned by another route, and in this +manner made the tour of the town. Half an hour is +fully enough to walk round the mere walls of the city, +but then there are considerable suburbs, consisting of +huts and stone and mud houses. At the Sheikh's I met +a merchant just returned from Kanou; I put some +questions to him, who, thinking I wished to have every +one answered in the affirmative, gave me his terrible +"yahs" and "aywahs" to all and everything demanded.</p> + +<p>"Are there many people ill in Kanou?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-36" id="V2-36"></a>[<a href="images/2-36.png">36</a>]</span></p> + +<p>"Yes, many."</p> + +<p>"Is the route to Kanou unsafe?"</p> + +<p>"Yes."</p> + +<p>"Are there banditti in route?"</p> + +<p>"Yes."</p> + +<p>"Is it hot in Kanou?"</p> + +<p>"Very hot, very hot."</p> + +<p>"Is there fever in Kanou?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, always."</p> + +<p>This I thought was good news. I fear we often get +incorrect intelligence from these people, through their +anxiety to answer all our questions in the affirmative, +they not understanding that we put the questions to +them simply to gain information.</p> + +<p>All men are indeed equal here, as saith the Governor. +There seems to be no ruling authority, and every +one does what is right in his own eyes. Yesterday, +although the Governor knew that some of his slaves or +other people had stolen my sugar, he never condescended +to mention the circumstance, by speaking to his eldest +son about the theft; he said absurdly enough, "Oh, if +we knew the thief, we would put him to death." On +protesting against such punishment for the offence, he +rejoined, "Oh, but we would cut off his hand." This is +all stuff, and a proof of the weakness of the Governor's +authority. Happily, however, there's no crime worth +naming in the oasis.</p> + +<p>Am obliged to keep the door shut to prevent people +from rushing into the house by twenties and fifties at +once. The Governor has sent strict orders to his slaves +to keep the door shut, first, to prevent me from being +pestered to death all day long, and, secondly, because<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-37" id="V2-37"></a>[<a href="images/2-37.png">37</a>]</span> +some of the people have got the habit here, as in Europe, +of picking up little things. A young slave is crying out, +"Bago! bago!" every five minutes, in answer to knocking +at the door to see The Christian, which we interpret +in European phrase more politely, "Not at home," but +which signifieth in the original Housa, "No, no." However, +a troop of the lower class of Touaricks managed to +squeeze in as some of our people went out, but I got rid +of them without angry words.</p> + +<p>A Ghadamsee resident here, came in to-day, with a +severe gash on his hands, and one of his fingers, to ask +my advice and beg medicine. The gash was inflicted +upon him whilst at prayer, by a vagabond Touarghee. +The assailant alleged as the reason of his violent act, that +the Ghadamsee had called him a thief amongst the +people, adding, that he (the Touarghee) had stolen two +skin-bags out of a house. For such violence, such a +daring act perpetrated on a man whilst in the solemn +performance of prayer, our Marabout Governor was +obliged to give satisfaction to the injured party. His +Excellency stripped the house of the Touraghee of all his +little property, turned him out into the street, and +ordered him immediately to leave Ghat. To the honour, +and humanity, and morality of the inhabitants of this +part of The Sahara, such acts of violence are extremely +rare. The Ghadamsee had poulticed his hand with wet +clay and camel's dung. I recommended a bread poultice, +but he kept to his day and camel's dung. The Saharans +mostly prefer their own remedies, though they may condescend +to ask you your advice. Bought some olive oil +from the Arabs of Gharian. Before pouring it out they +wished me to put sugar in the measure. I suspected<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-38" id="V2-38"></a>[<a href="images/2-38.png">38</a>]</span> +some trick, and refused. As soon as the measure was +out of my servant's hand, they seized it, some licking +it, others rubbing their hands in it, and then oiling their +bread. They wanted to have a lick at the sugar, which +would have settled down at the bottom; and were very +angry with me because I did not take their advice of +improving the oil with my sugar. These Arabs are +really more greedy and rapacious than the Touaricks. +The difference is, the Arabs are near Tripoli, see Europeans, +and learn to be more polite to us than the Touaricks +can well be.</p> + +<p>A son of the Governor recited to me the following +famous distich, begging me to tell him what it meant:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Tummora, tummora, tera,</span> +<span class="i0">Buon giorno, buona sera."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>On inquiring how he learned it, he told me a Moor of +Tripoli taught it him. This seems to be the extent of +European literature acquired by the Ghateen.</p> + +<p><i>23rd.</i>—Continue to have pains in my stomach, and +feel very weak. Am undecided whether I shall go or +not to Soudan. However, Haj Ibrahim has kindly +offered to let me have twenty-five dollars' worth of +goods on credit, which, in the case of my going, will +relieve me from every embarrassment as to money for +the present, until I can get a remittance from Tripoli, +for these twenty-five dollars will furnish the presents and +expenses of the route, and allow me to retain some +twenty or thirty dollars in my pocket. The reader will +and must smile at this mighty statement of my financial +affairs, worthy of a Desert Budget!</p> + +<p>Essnousee called. Ouweek is a personal friend of his; +Essnousee says:—"Ouweek has told us, he feared from<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-39" id="V2-39"></a>[<a href="images/2-39.png">39</a>]</span> +you (myself), for the English had never before been in +his district. For the rest, he was only playing with you. +He wished to see whether an Englishman was a man of +courage. This you proved to be, for you sat down and +ate dates and biscuit whilst he was threatening to kill +you. It also proved that you knew that he (Ouweek) +was playing with you, for how could you eat dates if you +thought he was going to kill you." This is Ouweek's +defence about town. I heard also a curious version +about the slave who ran to the horse. Zaleâ says, the +slave ran there to get Ouweek farther from me, giving me +an opportunity, if I chose, of escaping to Ghat. This +affair still occupies public attention, but Ouweek keeps +his present, and evidently will not restore it despite the +threats of Jabour. Essnousee tells me not to be afraid +of Ouweek, for he has influence with the Sheikh.</p> + +<p>A Souk of <i>little things</i> has just been opened, and provisions, +with all sorts of small articles, the manufacture of +Soudan and Aheer, are exposed for sale in the public +square. Formerly, these matters were purchased at +private houses. This is a step in the march of Saharan +commerce.</p> + +<p>Yesterday evening, the poor slaves danced and sung +till midnight in the public squares. Ever-pitying Providence, +so permits an hour of gaiety to suffering humanity, +under circumstances the most adverse to happiness! +The slaves of the caravan are, a few of them, permitted +to join those of the town, and the exiled slaves sometimes +obtain intelligence in this way of their country. +Generally the slaves imported are from such a variety of +districts in Negroland, and so widely apart, that the slaves +of The Sahara can hear little of their native homes. I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-40" id="V2-40"></a>[<a href="images/2-40.png">40</a>]</span> +asked Bel Kasem, if the slaves of the Ghafalah were +prisoners of war. "No," he replied, "there is no war +now in Soudan; these are captured with matchlocks at +night by robbers (sbandout); the negro is frightened out +of his wits at the sound of fire-arms."</p> + +<p>Afternoon there was a tremendous hubbub in the +public square or market-place, the Negresses flying in +all directions from the scene of tumult. One of Haj +Ahmed's negresses comes running to me: "Shut the +door, shut the door, the world is upset, the world is +upset! Haj Ahmed, my master, is no Sheikh, no Sultan. +He can't keep the people quiet. I'm going, I'm going." +"Where are you going?" "I'm going to another and +quieter country, to Haj Ahmed, my master, to tell him +the news." This is a very lively negress, her tongue +never stops; she retails all the news of the country to +me, and is a great politician in her way. Some of these +Ghat negresses are actually witty, and crack jokes with +the grave Touaricks. The Touaricks are too gallant to +be offended with the freedom of even female slaves. I +felt somewhat alarmed, thinking the discomfitted party +might come and avenge their defeat upon the unlucky +Christian stranger. We barricaded the door, and kept +quiet, anxiously waiting the result, as people do in Paris, +when an <i>emeute</i> is being enacted for the especial benefit +of the Parisians. Afterwards I learnt the particulars of +this strange tumult. There is an old half-cracked +Sheikh, who goes every day into the public square, and +strikes his spear into the ground, and retiring at a distance, +exclaims aloud to all present, "Whoever dares +to touch that spear I'll kill him!" To-day a young +Touarick passed by, and seeing the spear sticking up<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-41" id="V2-41"></a>[<a href="images/2-41.png">41</a>]</span> +very formidably, as if challenging all-passers by, went +near it, and said, "What's this?" and took hold of it. +The crazy Sheikh was watching at some distance, and +now was his opportunity to show the people his determined +will and resolution. He rushes at the lad with +his dagger in hand. In an instant the whole place +is in wild tumult, cries and shouts rend the air, with a +forest of spears brandishing over the heads of Touaricks, +Arabs, Moors, slaves, men, women, and children, mingling +together, and running over one another in a +frightful <i>melée</i>. The boy is rescued, the people resume +their lounging seats, the storm drops to a dead calm, +and nobody is hurt, not even scratched. Such is a row +amongst these untutored children of The Desert. How +different to the Thuggee rows now being enacted in +Ireland!</p> + +<p>Afterwards paid a visit to Bel Kasem. He complained +bitterly of slaves being dear. A slave is sold at +from 40 to 100 dollars. The mediate price is 60 to 70<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads ','">.</ins> +Two months ago good slaves were sold at 30 and 40 +dollars each. The reason given is the great quantity of +merchandize arrived direct from Tripoli, besides from +the lateral routes of Ghadames and Mourzuk. The +English Vice-Consul of the latter city has sent quantities +of goods to this mart, but these are exchanged only +for senna and ivory. This evening arrived another +Tripoline merchant with twenty camels of merchandize. +He came <i>viâ</i> Mizdah and Shaty, and was forty-five days +<i>en route</i>. The Touat caravan (very small) has arrived, +bringing Touat woollen barracans and Timbuctoo gold. +The affair of the Timbuctoo caravan is differently +reported. It is now said the people killed were the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-42" id="V2-42"></a>[<a href="images/2-42.png">42</a>]</span> +inhabitants of Ain Salah. The Desert is a great +exaggerator and misinterpreter. It is very difficult to +get correct news.</p> + +<p><i>24th.</i>—Better in health this morning, after taking +medicine yesterday. First thing, returned the visit of +the Governor. When I go out early, find few persons +about the streets. People are up as late in winter +as they are early in summer. The Touaricks of the +suburban huts do not come to town till very late in +the morning, when the Souk begins. His Excellency +treated me with three cups of coffee. He said, "You +must take three, because it is the destined number of +hospitality, and as many more as you choose." It was +wretched stuff—hot water and sugar, blackened or diluted +with a little badly-ground coffee. But his Excellency +thought he was conferring upon me a vast favour. +Few people drink coffee in this country, and it is considered +a great luxury. A man from Bengazi, a visitor, +was also treated with his three cups of coffee. These +Saharans have strange notions in their heads respecting +the geography of England, and the capabilities of its +inhabitants in travelling. The Governor asked me, "If +the English could travel by land?" I was astonished at +the question, but I saw he imagined our country, and +European countries generally, to be so many little islets +in the ocean<a name="FNa_2-7" id="FNa_2-7"></a><a href="#FoN_2-7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a>. It is curious, likewise, how old this notion<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-43" id="V2-43"></a>[<a href="images/2-43.png">43</a>]</span> +is. The Hebrew prophets, who were bad geographers, +depicted all western Europe as "the isles of the sea." +The Governor continued, "But can you travel on land, +when water is wanted, as in this country?" Before the +French occupied Algiers, the Saharans thought it impossible +for Christians to invade, or even to travel in, +their country. This gave the French invading army +such a vast prestige when they once got upon <i>terrâ firma</i>. +The event was as unexpected and marvelled at as the +immediate results were decisive and brilliant. I answered, +"In travelling through Christian countries, water +is met with every day. If it be necessary to carry water +however, water is carried. The French carry it in Algeria, +and the English in India, when the country is dry +and desert, on the backs of camels." His Excellency, +greatly surprised, "What! impossible! Have the Christians +camels? God gave the camels only to the Faithful." +I returned, "We have troops of camels." "And where +do you get camels?" asked the Governor, with great +seriousness. "The French buy camels from Mussulmans +in Algeria, and the English keep camels in India." +"Ah!" observed the Governor, "those French Mussulmans +sell camels to infidels. They themselves are infidels." +His Excellency now inquired about religion, and +whether all Christians had books (<i>i. e.</i> books of religion). +As before noticed, there is a prevailing opinion here +that Protestants have no Scriptures, whilst, indeed, as +we know, they are the Christians who only, <i>bonâ fide</i>, +have the free use of the Scriptures. I saw that Haj +Ahmed, though a Marabout, was sufficiently ignorant on +the religion of Christians. His Excellency then asked +about money.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-44" id="V2-44"></a>[<a href="images/2-44.png">44</a>]</span></p> +<p>"Who have the most money, Mussulmans or the +English?"</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"The English, The Sultan of Constantinople +has no money, or spends it faster than he gets it. Mehemet +Ali has but little money. However, Muley +Abd Errahman has some saved up in the vaults of +Mekinas."</p> + +<p><i>The Governor.</i>—"Muley Abd Errahman belongs to +us; we are his subjects. We have nothing to do with +the Turks or the Touaricks. As the English have much +money, why have not you much?"</p> + +<p>This question—this home-thrust—was made in a peculiarly +arch way.</p> + +<p>"If I had brought much money," I replied, as pointedly, +"I'm sure I should have been murdered before I +got to Ghat. All my friends, and the Rais of Ghadames +told me not to carry any money with me."</p> + +<p>This clear and positive statement made the visitors, +who were numerous, burst out laughing. His Excellency, +taken by surprise, asked abruptly, "How? Why?" +I added, "Two Englishmen have been murdered in The +Desert, the one near Wadnoun (Davidson), and the +other near Timbuctoo (Major Laing), and both upon the +supposition of their having possessed much money." +The Governor at once dropped the subject, thinking I +was going to bring upon the tapis Ouweek. His Excellency +often quizzes me about having no money, evidently +not believing a word of my alleged poverty. I then +asked the Governor what he thought of the great camel-driver, +Kandarka, who conducts the caravans, and +nearly all the Ghadamseeah between Ghat and Aheer. +He answered, to my surprise, <i>Ma nâraf</i>, "I don't<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-45" id="V2-45"></a>[<a href="images/2-45.png">45</a>]</span> +know," for Kandarka has an excellent reputation. This +was the jesuitism of the Moor.</p> + +<p>I took leave, and was escorted to Hateetah by my +young Touarghee friend, whose eyes I'm doctoring. On +our way we met his master, Sheikh Jabour, who stopped +to salute us. Afterwards, somebody hailed us from a +hut. My Touarghee friend turned and said, "They +want to see you." We went, and I found several of my +Ghadamsee acquaintance and some Touarghee people of +consequence, all squatting down on the sand in a gossiping +circle. They soon began on the troublesome subject +of religion, after they had gratified their curiosity in +staring at me and through me. One said to the Ghadamsee +people, "Tell the Christian to repeat, 'There's one +God,'" &c. I was determined to risk an abrupt answer. +I said, "This saying is prohibited to Christians." At +this stop-mouth answer they burst out into a fit of hilarity. +But one fellow, who wished to show some zeal, +growled out, "Be off, be off." My good-natured young +Touarghee quickly got up from the circle, where he had +taken his seat, and smiling, took me by the arm, whispering +in my ear, "Come along, Yâkob, these are brutish +people." We found Hateetah better. I asked him +seriously if there was danger in my going to Aheer. He +observed, "Without a letter from Shafou you can't go, +the merchants can't and won't protect you. Some of +them are big rascals, worse than us Touaricks, and will +sell you as a slave for a dollar." Many concur in this +opinion. I found the Ghatee people more peaceable in +the streets, now the novelty of my appearance is diminishing. +When I pay a visit to a person of consequence +I always put on my European clothes, which compliment<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-46" id="V2-46"></a>[<a href="images/2-46.png">46</a>]</span> +is perfectly understood, for I offended an old Sheikh +with going to him with my burnouse on instead of my +French cloak. He said to my uncouth cicerone, "This +Christian doesn't pay me respect, why doesn't he dress +himself in Christian clothes?" Hateetah always makes +me promise to return by the eastern side of the city, +where we meet with very few persons. Saw Haj Ibrahim +on my return. He complains of the market:—"Slaves +are very dear. What can we do? We are obliged to +buy them; there is nothing else in the market. Only a +small quantity of elephants' teeth and a little senna. +Besides these, nothing else sells in Tripoli."</p> + +<p>Returning from the merchants, "Whey! whey! whoo! +whoo! whoo!" saluted my ears. This noise came from +a group of people surrounding <i>En-Nibbee Targhee</i>, "The +Prophet of the Touaricks." The salute was followed by +a number of persons who rushed upon me, carried me +by force into the presence of The Prophet. The Seer, +seeing me discomposed, said in a kind tone, "<i>Gheem</i>," +(sit down). Now there was profoundest silence, not a +murmur was heard amongst a hundred people crowded +together. The Seer stood up before me, and, assuming +an imposing attitude, spoke in monosyllabic style, the +usual address adopted by North African and Saharan +prophets,—</p> + +<p>"Christian, Ghat, good, you?"</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"Yes, the people are good to me."</p> + +<p><i>The Prophet.</i>—"Three! one!" (putting out one +finger of the right hand, and three of the left hand.)</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"There is one God!" (knowing the prophet +meant this, for it is the usual way of badgering Christians +about the Trinity in North Africa.)<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-47" id="V2-47"></a>[<a href="images/2-47.png">47</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>The Prophet.</i>—"Good:" (then making the sign of +the cross by putting his two forefingers into the shape of +a cross.) "But you Christians worship this (the cross) +of wood, stone, iron, brass. This is not good, not +good."</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"No, we English do not worship wood, stone, +iron, or brass."</p> + +<p><i>The Prophet.</i>—"You lie, you lie." (At this emphatic +negative, up stepped one of my Ghadamsee friends to +the Prophet, and told him that the English did not +worship the cross or images like some other Christians.)</p> + +<p><i>The Prophet.</i>—"Good, right, sublime. What's your +name?"</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>-"Yâkob."</p> + +<p><i>The Prophet.</i>—"You, dog, Jew."</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"No. This is the Arabic of my English +name."</p> + +<p><i>The Prophet.</i>-"Good, good; Yâkob, do you steal?"</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"Please God, I hope not."</p> + +<p><i>The Prophet.</i>—"Yâkob, do you lie?"</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"Please God, I hope not."</p> + +<p><i>The Prophet.</i>—"Yâkob, do you strike?" (<i>i. e.</i> kill.)</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"Please God, I hope not."</p> + +<p><i>The Prophet.</i>—"Good, good, good. Have you seen +the Kafers in Algiers?" (<i>i. e.</i> the French.)</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"I have."</p> + +<p><i>The Prophet.</i>—"Have they houses where women are +kept, and twenty men go in and sleep with one woman +in an hour?" (At this question, the multitude showed +intense anxiety to hear the result.)</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"I don't know."</p> + +<p>I had scarcely made answer when two women<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-48" id="V2-48"></a>[<a href="images/2-48.png">48</a>]</span> +rushed upon the Prophet and dragged him away crying, +"<i>Yamout, Mat:</i> he is dying! he is dead!" As the +Prophet was pulled away he turned to me mildly and +said, "<i>Yâkob, inker</i>, Arise, James." I inquired where +he was being dragged to, and was told that the husband +of the two women was just dead, and the Prophet was +going to see whether he could raise him from the dead. +The Prophet had already raised several people from +death to life. It is a pity this barbarian prophet could +not be transported from the sands of The Sahara to +the marble pavement of the Vatican, where he might +harangue Pope Pius IX. and his Cardinals in the style +of an Iconoclast, and induce the Sacred College to abolish +their scandal of image-worship. The Prophet wears a +leathern dress, or dried skins, from head to foot. His +repute of sanctity fills the surrounding deserts with its +holy odours. The number of miracles he performs is +prodigious. His leathern burnouse, like the Holy Tunic +of Treves, is frequently carried about to cure the sick +and work miracles.</p> + +<p>Coming home, I had a visit from some Touaricks of +Aheer. They were uncommonly civil, addressing me: +"If you go with us, you have nothing to fear. In Aheer, +people will not call out to you in the streets as in Ghat. +We have a Sultan. Here there is no Sultan." They +were amazed at my little keys. I promised one of them, +that, in case of my arriving safe in Aheer, I would give +him a little lock and key. This delighted him; and two +pieces of sugar, one each, made these Aheer Touaricks +excellent friends. Have visits from the Ghateen. Several +of these people are going to Soudan with the return +caravan.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-49" id="V2-49"></a>[<a href="images/2-49.png">49</a>]</span></p> + +<p>In better spirits to-day. Have been suffering from +"The Boree." Such a variety of discouraging influences +press upon the mind, that it is very difficult to keep it +buoyant. Poor Said, he gives way in tears. He is +become terrified at the prospect of Soudan; he repeats, +"The Touaricks will kill you, and make me a slave +again."</p> + +<p>Had another visit from the uncle of Sheikh Jabour, a +poor old gentleman. I got rid of him by a bit of white +sugar, which he munched as a little child. He says, +"One thousand Touarghee warriors are going against +the Shânbah after the mart is held." Was to-day astonished +to hear, that a few dates, a little gusub, a few +onions, and a few stones of dates, which a female slave +offers for sale in the streets, belong to Haj Ahmed the +Governor! His Excellency sends the poor woman every +morning to sell this miserable merchandize, and she regularly +pays into his hands the price and profits every +evening. This is one of the wrinkles of the Great +Governor Marabout, who lives in a palace, and reigns as +king and priest of Ghat and the Ghateen<a name="FNa_2-8" id="FNa_2-8"></a><a href="#FoN_2-8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>! What shall +I hear next? I am not surprised, some of the Ghadamsee +merchants sneer at the idea of Haj Ahmed being "a +Marabout of odour." Essnousee sent me a little present +of vermicelli and cuscasou, or <i>hamsa</i>. He certainly +behaves better than the other Ghadamsee merchants +resident here. I'm told, there will not be many Touarick +visitors this year at Ghat. They have unexpected occupation +to defend themselves against the sanguinary forays +of the Shânbah. And then, the late rains having pro<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-50" id="V2-50"></a>[<a href="images/2-50.png">50</a>]</span>duced +abundant herbage, they are also occupied in +grazing the camels. The merchants congratulate me on +these circumstances, and say I shall have less presents to +distribute.</p> + +<p>Met at Haj Ibrahim's a Shereef of Mourzuk, who +pretends he is going to Soudan. This is a little thin +fellow, who glides into people's houses through the keyhole, +importunately begging on the strength of his being +of the family of the Prophet, and lives by the same +pretensions. He has a smiling face, with his head +reclined always on one side from his habit of incessant +importunities; of course, he has not a para in his +pocket. But, nevertheless, he managed a few months +ago to ally himself with the family of a rich merchant, +marrying the sister of my friend Mohammed Kafah, one of +the Ghatee millionnaires. Kafah is thoroughly disgusted +with his sister's marriage, and gives them nothing to eat, +or only enough to keep his sister from dying of starvation. +One of the Shereef's items of importunity, is his +incessant abuse of his brother-in-law, because he won't +keep him in idleness. This little sorry shrimpy <i>quasi</i>-impostor +can neither read nor write. He tells me it is +quite unnecessary. The blood of the Prophet makes +him noble, and fit for heaven at any time Rubbee may +decree his death. He is professionally and continually +begging from me, and says with a whining pomposity, +"Put yourself under my protection, I will escort you safe to +Soudan. No one dare lift a finger against a Christian +under the protection of a Shereef!" But it's odd, these +and such offers of protection come from many quarters. +The camel-drivers and conducteurs look upon me as a +good speculation. The Shereef pretends that there are<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-51" id="V2-51"></a>[<a href="images/2-51.png">51</a>]</span> +no less than two hundred of his family in Soudan, and +some nearly black, on account of their intermarriages +with negroes. One thing I like in the little wretch, he +seems devoid of a spark of bigotry against Christians. +It may be that his mind is too impotent for the malicious +feeling. "Gagliuffi," he says, "is my friend. I'm the +protector of the English at Mourzuk." Mustapha of +Tripoli has cut me because I would not allow him to +charge me double for the sugar, cloves, and sunbul, which +I purchased of him. A pretty rogue is this; but I forgive +him, for his voluntary and opportune services in +interpreting for me on my arrival in Ghat.</p> + +<p><i>25th.</i>—Christmas Day! Not a merry Christmas for +me—in truth, a sad, an unhappy one. And yet I ought +to be content, having food and raiment, and enjoying the +protection of God amidst strangers, in The Inhospitable +Desert! It is better for a man to pray for a happy +mind than for riches and celebrity. Weather has been +mostly fine during the ten days I have resided here. +But this morning broke angrily, followed with a tremendous +gale, blowing from the east, prostrating all the +palms, and filling the air with sand, as a thrice condensed +London November fog. It is besides very cold, +and is so far Christmas weather. I may add, the weather +continued unusually cold this Souk. People had not +had such cold for many a year. Received a visit from +the Sheikh Jabour, who expressed himself uncommonly +friendly, and said, "If anything unpleasant occurs, call +for me." I showed him some cuts of a book, in which +were drawings of Moors. He was wonder-stricken. +The sight of a date-palm pleased him exceedingly, +tickling the fancy of his followers who accompanied him.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-52" id="V2-52"></a>[<a href="images/2-52.png">52</a>]</span> +The Sheikh promised me a letter for the Sultan of +Aheer, and to send a slave of his own with me as far as +Aheer. Jabour did not positively assert that Tripoli +belonged to the English, and contented himself with +asking, "If Tripoli were English?" I explained fully to +the Sheikh, as he is a man of a fine ingenuous mind, that +Asker Ali was recalled by the Sultan of Stamboul on +the representations of the British Consul of Tripoli, the +Pasha being a blood-thirsty tyrant, the enemy of the +Christians as well as the Mussulmans; and that the +Consul has influence in Tripoli, but Tripoli belongs to the +Sultan. The Ghadamsee interpreter observed, "The +English and the Mussulmans are the same." "Certainly," +I replied, "without the English the French would soon +eat up the Sultan of the West (Morocco), and the Russians +the Sultan of the East (Turkey)." "That's good," +observed Jabour; "Still, we in The Desert, fear neither +Christians nor Sultan. And if the English require our +assistance they can have it. Tell this on your return to +your Sultan." This amiable prince then took leave. If +there be a desert <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'aristocract'">aristocrat</ins> of gentle blood, it is unquestionably +Jabour. A shoal of low Touaricks came to +me afterwards, in the Sheikh's name, to beg. I saw +through the <i>ruse</i>, and they were savage in being obliged +to go off empty-handed. Some Touarick ladies now +tried to squeeze in as the door was opened, and, in spite +of the "bago, bago," got up stairs to the terrace. They +had all the tips of their noses, the round of the chins, +and the bones of their cheeks, blackened. At first I +could not make out how it was. It was explained that +the dye of the Soudan cottons, which they wore, produced this +blacky tipping. These cottons begrime their<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-53" id="V2-53"></a>[<a href="images/2-53.png">53</a>]</span> +wearers sadly, the colour is not fast, the indigo being +ill prepared. Some of the blue cottons are highly +glazed. Men and women wear them, being cheap and +light clothing for the summer.</p> + +<p><i>26th.</i>—Relieved from pain, but getting very thin, +although my habits are now what are called sedentary. +I rarely sit up when at home, mostly reclining. So far +I am become a <i>bonâ fide</i> Saharan habitant. Kandarka +called again to-day at my request. He professed to be +very uncivil or very serious, and asked a large sum for +conducting me to Soudan, like a real man of business, quite +inconsistent with the present state of my finances. He asks +no less than 150 dollars in goods, including camels for riding, +and other attentions. This is more than he gets from +all the merchants put together, in fact, nearly twice as +much. But if it be necessary to strike the bargain, I'm +sure he will come down to fifty. My health is breaking +down very fast, and I have great hesitation on the subject +of a farther advance into the interior. I have been +thinking of continuing my tour to Egypt and Syria, and +Constantinople, visiting all the slave-marts of the Mediterranean. +Had a visit from Zaleâ, and found him the +same man as <i>en route</i>. But he is always a little wild and +playful. He is against my proceeding farther, and tells +me to get off on my return before Shafou comes, that the +Touaricks may not get all the money I have. I am at +present, however, so satisfied with the Touaricks, that I +would give them a camel-load of dollars if I had them. +Shafou is still occupied in the neighbouring districts, enrolling +troops for the Shânbah expedition. The Bengazi +merchant persuades me to accompany him. From +Ghat to the first oasis of Fezzan, there are 10 days;<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-54" id="V2-54"></a>[<a href="images/2-54.png">54</a>]</span> +from thence to Sockna, 10; from Sockna to Augelah, +10; thence to Seewah, 14 days more; and thence to +Alexandria, 14 more days.</p> + +<p>Weather is dull to-day, but not very cold. All the +Arabs and people of Ghadames abuse Ghat: it is +assuredly a sufficiently wretched place. However, the +scenery around is much more lively and picturesque than +that of Ghadames. A great quantity of elephants' teeth +arrived yesterday (not to be sold here), on their way to +Ghadames. Also some Soudanic sheep for this market, +selling as low as three dollars each. Had a visit from +the eldest son of the Governor, and his nephew the +Medina Shereef. This Shereef must be carefully distinguished +from the little mad-cap impostor of Mourzuk +mentioned before. I have not found so gentlemanly a +person in all Ghat and Ghadames. He was born in +Medina, but brought up here; he is the son of the +Governor's sister, who is married a second time to the +Sheikh Khanouhen, heir-apparent to the throne. The +Shereef's mother is not a Touarick woman, and the +Sheikh has another wife of Touarick extraction in the +districts. Of course Khanouhen is strongly recommended +to me by his son-in-law. "Khanouhen," he says, "has +all the wisdom and eloquence of the country in his head +and heart. Shafou is an old man, and talks little. +Whatever Khanouhen plans, Shafou approves; whatever +Khanouhen says in words, Shafou orders to be done." +Had a visit from a Touatee, just arrived. He recommended +me to go to Timbuctoo, and fear nothing. +"What have the Touaricks of Ghat done to you that +you are afraid to visit the Touaricks of my country and +Timbuctoo?" he added. Now came in two Soudanese<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-55" id="V2-55"></a>[<a href="images/2-55.png">55</a>]</span> +merchants. One of them said, "Say 'There is but one +God,' &c." I answered "This is prohibited to us," which +made them laugh out. They have not that fierce bigotry +of the north-coast merchants. Visited Haj Ibrahim. He +says, "Wait for me till next year, and we'll both go together +to Soudan. I'll protect you." Certainly this +Moor has hitherto shown himself extremely friendly to +me. Khanouhen came in this evening from the country.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-7" id="FoN_2-7"></a><a href="#FNa_2-7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> 1s x<span class="smcap">l</span>i. 1, 5; x<span class="smcap">l</span>ix, i. Whilst in Jer. ii. 10, Europe entire is +presented to the prophetic vision by the designation of "the Isles +of Chittim." Sometimes the whole idea of Gentiles and Gentile +nations is represented by the isles of the sea. The Hebrew bards, +standing on the heights of Lebanon, and looking westwards, saw +nothing but innumerable clusters of islets in the dim and undefined +distance of the waters of the Mediterranean.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-8" id="FoN_2-8"></a><a href="#FNa_2-8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> A Moor of Ghat now and then goes to Tripoli. The Italian +merchants call them the <i>Gatti</i>, "cats."</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-56" id="V2-56"></a>[<a href="images/2-56.png">56</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> + +<h3>RESIDENCE IN GHAT.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival of the Sultan Shafou.—Visit to his Highness.—Visit to +Hateetah; his jealousy of the Sultan and other Sheikhs.—Visit +from the People of the Oasis of Berkat.—Said sobbing and +sulking.—A Night-School in The Desert.—Use of Sand instead +of Paper, Pens, and Ink.—Mode of Touarghee succession to the +Throne.—Women hereditary possessors of Household Property.—Negresses +are Dramatic Performers.—Description of the +Oasis of Ghat; Houses, Architecture, Gardens, and Surrounding +Country.—Visit from the Heir-Apparent, Khanouhen.—Genial +softness of the Weather.—Specimen of Retail Trade.—Case of +administering Justice by the Sultan.—Early habit of Touarghee +begging.—The <i>Bou-Habeeba</i>, or Saharan Singing Sparrows.—Alarm +of Female Hucksters at The Christian.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>27th.</i>—<span class="smcap">A fine</span> morning. Feel better in health. The +Touarghee Sultan, Mohammed Shafou Ben Seed, came +in this morning from the country districts. His Highness +is Sultan of all the Ghat Touaricks, or those +of <i>Azgher</i>.</p> + +<p>Arrived to-day another portion of the Soudan +ghafalah. There was a false report this morning of the +appearance of the Shânbah. Musket firing was heard +in various directions, and the people ran together, some +mounting the tops of the houses to see the fighting +which was supposed to be going on between the +Shânbah and Touaricks. The Arabs, with their matchlocks +in their hands, ran after their camels to prevent +them from being carried off. The hubbub was most +singular and bewildering. I expected to have to report +skirmish after skirmish, in the capture of Ghat, for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-57" id="V2-57"></a>[<a href="images/2-57.png">57</a>]</span> +benefit of The Leading London Journal. The true cause +at length appeared in the arrival of the Sultan, the +firing of matchlocks heard at a distance being done in +honour of His Highness, and his coming to his town +residence. So it is, in a little place like this a false +report may work wonders in a few minutes. People +are charmed with these rumours: they are their oral +newspaper excitement. In the streets were now heard +"Shafou! Shafou!" "It is Shafou! It is Shafou! It is +Shafou!" "Shafou has come!"</p> + +<p>As soon as the Sultan arrived, without waiting more +than three or four hours, I determined to visit His +Highness, and carry him a small present. I could not +yet tell how the Sultan would look upon my projected +journey to Soudan. Fortunately I found Essnousee in +the streets, who volunteered his services as interpreter. +Haj Ibrahim was also so good as to embrace the opportunity +of going with us. This had a good effect, and +served to give my visit consequence, Haj Ibrahim being +the most respectable foreigner now in Ghat. He was +also a stranger to His Highness as well as myself.</p> + +<p>We found His Highness, at about a quarter of a +mile's distance out of the town, sitting down by himself +alone upon the sand, aside of a large <i>hasheesh</i> house, or +hut of date-palm branches. The attendants of His +Highness, who were not very numerous, sat at a considerable +distance off. In this primitive way and Desert +style he had been receiving various personages ever +since his arrival this morning. As soon as His Highness +saw us approaching him, he bade us welcome by signs +and salutations in the style of the Touaricks, slowly +raising his right arm, as high as his shoulders, and turn<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-58" id="V2-58"></a>[<a href="images/2-58.png">58</a>]</span>ing +the palm of the outspread hand to us. Haj +Ibrahim was first introduced, but the Sultan could not +keep off his eyes from me. At last the Sultan made a +sign to Essnousee to speak on my behalf. Essnousee +explained very deliberately and minutely everything +respecting me—where and when he saw me at Tripoli, +how I went to Ghadames, came here from that place, +and what were my intentions in proposing to go to +Soudan. The Sultan then turned to me, and said, +"Go, Christian, wherever you please; in my country fear +nothing—go where everybody else goes." After this I +presented my little backsheesh to His Highness, consisting +of a small carpet-rug to sit or recline upon, a +zamailah or turban, and a shumlah or sash, large and +full, and scarlet, like the Spaniards wear. On giving the +servant of His Highness the present, (which was covered, +and not exposed before His Highness, as a matter of +delicacy,) I said, through Essnousee, "This present is +from me, and not from my Sultan, nor the Consul at +Tripoli, nor any persons in my country; it is extremely +small, and scarcely worth accepting. But, probably, if +your Highness should protect Englishmen through your +country, and allow English merchants to come and +traffic in Ghat, a greater and richer present will be sent +to you hereafter." His Highness replied, "Thank you; +I'm an old man now, and want but little: we have a +little bread, and milk of the nagah (she-camel), and for +which we praise God. Don't fear our people—no one +shall hurt you." Indeed, I saw the old gentleman was +thankful for any trifle. My little backsheesh was, +perhaps, of the value of ten dollars, and was the largest +present I had yet made. I then asked His Highness<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-59" id="V2-59"></a>[<a href="images/2-59.png">59</a>]</span> +whether he would write a letter for me to the Sultan of +Aheer, and one to the Queen of England, stating that +he would give protection to all British subjects passing +through The Touarghee Desert? The Sultan replied, +"All that you want I will do for you, please God." I +determined to risk a word on Desert politics. I said, +"Your Highness must exterminate the Shânbah, for they +are a band of robbers." The Sultan replied, "Please +God we will; we are now preparing the camels to go +out against them." Essnousee and Haj Ibrahim considered +the words of the Sultan delivered in the most +friendly spirit. Shafou was dressed very plainly and +very dirtily; and yet there sat upon his aged countenance +(for he was full seventy years of age) a most +venerable expression of dignity. His Highness wore a +dark-blue cotton frock of Soudanic manufacture, and +black-blue trowsers of the same kind of cotton. On his +head was a red cap, around which was folded in very +large folds a white turban. He had, like all Touaricks, +a dagger suspended under the left arm, but no other +weapon near him, or on his person. By his side, on the +sand, lay a huge stick with which he walks, instead of +the lance. His mouth and chin were covered with a +thin blue cotton wrapper, a portion of the <i>litham</i>. +Around his neck were suspended a few amulets, sewn up +in red leathern bags. His Highness was without shoes, +and his legs were quite bare; his feet lay half-buried in +the sand. He spoke very slow and under tone, scarcely +audible, and at times the conversation was interrupted +by the silence of the dead. All his deportment was like +that of a Sultan of these wilds; and the ancient Sheikh +felt all the consciousness of his power. The Desert<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-60" id="V2-60"></a>[<a href="images/2-60.png">60</a>]</span> +Genii hedge him in around. The Sultan is profoundly +respected by all; and Louis-Philippe is a gingerbread +Sovereign compared with Shafou of The Great +Desert.</p> + +<p>But the reader would not be prepared to find His +Highness smoking his pipe during our interview, and +striking a light himself, the materials for which he carried +in a large leathern bag, or pouch, slung on his +left arm, like all the Touaricks. On taking leave, we +called the servant of the Sultan after us, and Haj +Ibrahim gave into his hands a small present for the +Sultan of the value of a couple of dollars, so that I +maintain my position of also giving the best presents, in +the case of the Sultan. To me it was a most pleasant +and refreshing interview, after the serio-comic affair of +Ouweek. I asked Haj Ibrahim what Shafou said to +him. The Sultan simply told the merchant, "You may +go to every part of the country now in safety: to +Touat, to Aheer, wherever you will—don't be afraid of +the Touaricks." I went home with the Haj, and spent +the evening with him. The merchant determines to +send eight camels of goods to Soudan. He has not sold +a fourth of what he brought to this mart. A great part +of the slaves, elephants' teeth, and senna which daily +arrive here, are not for sale in Ghat, but are sent direct +from Soudan to Tripoli by the correspondents of the +Ghadamsee merchants at Kanou. The Ghat Souk is +nearly closed, all the slaves are sold, and some of the +people are thinking about returning.</p> + +<p><i>28th.</i>—Rose early and better in health. Pleased with +the prospect of still seeing my journey to Soudan completed. +Weather this morning very dull, sky overcast,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-61" id="V2-61"></a>[<a href="images/2-61.png">61</a>]</span> +a few drops of rain falling. Early Sheikh Hateetah sent +for me. Went and found the Consul of the English +better in health. He shewed me his scarlet burnouse and +gold-braided coat, given him by our Government. But +as his object in calling me was only to express his jealousy +of the other Sheikhs, and of the Sultan himself, +and to beg another present, I was by no means pleased +with my visit. He evidently wished me to give him all +the presents as the "Friend" of the English. But this +would have been both unjust and suicidal policy on my +part. I could not have considered myself safe, at any +rate, respected or esteemed, unless I had given a present +to all the principal personages in Ghat and the surrounding +districts. Hateetah besides annoyed me by +saying the route of Aheer was full of bandits, against +the concurrent testimony of all the merchants. He wishes +me to take the route of Bornou, which would, entirely +defeat the object I have in view, of visiting new countries. +However, by being firm with him, I got him to promise +to procure for me a letter and servant from Shafou to go +on to Aheer. I am to call again in a few days, and he +is to show me his seal of office, done by the Consul-General +of Tripoli. Hateetah is a man of more than +sixty years, very tall, thin and attenuated, of extremely +feeble frame. He is still labouring under fever, and +does not leave his pallet. To-day, however, he got quite +energetic on the subject of the presents, having heard +what a fine present the Sultan had received from me. +He begged me not to give a present to the <i>Oulad</i> +("people" or "followers") of Shafou, meaning thereby +Khanouhen.</p> + +<p>On my return, I found my door thronged with visitors<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-62" id="V2-62"></a>[<a href="images/2-62.png">62</a>]</span> +from Berkat, the village three miles distant, <i>en route</i> of +Soudan. They had been waiting an hour or two for my +return. At first I repulsed them, but hearing afterwards +they had brought a young lad unwell, I let them in. +The lad was covered with hard lumps, which had grown +or festered under his skin, about the size of a nut. He +had been so for a year. I prescribed a bath and +opening medicine (senna, which they can get easily), but +I question if they try either. I recommended them to +send him to Tripoli, to the English doctor there, but they +heard of the proposal with horror. None of these Berkat +people have ever visited Tripoli. The Turks are their +bugbear. They were not extremely friendly; rude and +ignorant villagers as they were, they could not understand +why I wanted to go to Soudan. I observed they were +all well clothed and seemed to live in Saharan affluence. +The term Berkat, ‮بركت‬, signifies "a lake" or "lagoon," +and probably the site of the oasis is the dry bottom of +what was formerly a lagoon. The Berkat oasis is larger +in gardens, and more fertile than Ghat, but possesses the +same essential features. It has no Souk, and excites no +attention from strangers visiting Ghat. The inhabitants +are Saharan Moors, and some five or six hundred in +number. Had a very friendly visit from Salah, eldest +son of Haj Mansour, of Ghadames. He says justly, +Kandarka and other camel-drivers exaggerate the dangers +of the routes for their own private ends, to get more +money out of me. Of the Touaricks and Ouweek, he +says, "They have no knowledge, they are bullocks." He +also added, "I have been reprimanding Ouweek for his +bad conduct to you; I told him I would not give him +my usual backsheesh on account of his ill-treating you."<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-63" id="V2-63"></a>[<a href="images/2-63.png">63</a>]</span></p> + +<p>I am much bothered with Said. Like his master he +is continually wavering, whether he shall return to Ghadames +with the return caravan, or proceed with me. I +leave him to his own choice and reflections, telling him +I will secure his freedom by writing to Sheikh Makouran. +I can't but pity him. I find him frequently in tears, or +sobbing aloud, afraid the Touaricks will again make him +a slave.</p> + +<p>In the streets, I pass nearly every evening a Night-School, +where there is a crowd of children all cooped up +together in a small room, humming, spouting, and screaming +simultaneously their lessons of the Koran, in the +manner of some of our infant schools. This mode of +simultaneously repeating a lesson has prevailed from time +immemorial in the schools of North Africa, and I imagine, +in The East likewise, and though it may be new in +England or Europe, it is old in Asia and Africa. But I +never saw before a Night-School in Barbary, and look +upon this Saharan specimen of scholastic discipline as a +novelty. It is probable, in this way, every male child of +Ghat, as in Ghadames, is taught to read and write. The +pride of the Ghadamseeah is, that all their children read +and write. The whole population can read and write the +Koran. This Saharan fact of the barbarians of The +Desert suggests painful reflections to honest-minded Englishmen. +We may boast of our liberties, our Magna +Charta, our independence of character, our commerce, +our wealth, the extent of the world which Providence +(too good to us) has committed to our care. But after +all we cannot boast of what the barbarians of The +Desert boast. We cannot, dare not, assert, that every +male child of our population can read the Book which<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-64" id="V2-64"></a>[<a href="images/2-64.png">64</a>]</span> +we call the Revelation of God! This deplorable, but +undeniable fact, ought to throw suspicion upon our +religious motives, as well as our pretensions to the love +and maintenance of liberty,—unless it be argued, that our +liberty is founded on our want of education, and we are +free men because the half of our population cannot sign +their own name! A Minister of the Crown (Earl Grey), +in a late, and the last discussion of the House of Lords +(of the old Parliament), had the hardihood, the intrepidity, +to assert, that, "We (Englishmen) were the least +educated people of Europe, nay, that we were behind the +savages of New Zealand!" But this astounding declaration +of the Minister produced no explosion of indignation, +not a single expression of regret, not a hum or +murmur of disapprobation from the Spiritual or Temporal +Lords, to whom the words of shame and censure +were addressed. And, as the Lords, so the Commons, so +all classes of our society. The enunciation, the reiteration +of this most extraordinary, most damning stigma, +on our national character, does not even tinge with the +most imperceptible hue of shame the national countenance. +What is the cause of all this? It is the profound, +incurable, and inextirpable bigotry of the English +people, to which they will not hesitate to sacrifice the +national honour, the public happiness, their own liberties, +and their own consciences. . . . . . . If measures for +education are proposed by Imperial Government, our +people one and all will neither allow them to be adopted, +nor will they themselves adopt measures for education. +With the diverse sections of our society, no education is +education unless it be based upon their own peculiar +views and principles. In this way, the curse and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-65" id="V2-65"></a>[<a href="images/2-65.png">65</a>]</span> +opprobrium of ignorance are maintained in our own +country.</p> + +<p>I observe that the little urchins of this Saharan +School use sand in their first efforts to write. As sand +abounds everywhere in the populated oases of Sahara, +and the people are poor and cannot afford to buy much +paper, it is constantly employed instead of paper, pens, +and ink, in casting up accounts. I see all the Soudanese +merchants casting up their accounts of barter and bargains +in this way. Mostly the fore-finger is employed, +and in careless conversation a long stick or spear is used +to scratch the sand. But if the subject is serious, the +speaker very distinctly marks the stops of his discourse, +or illustrates it with flourishes, squares, and circles on +the sand, or dust of the streets, smoothing over the sand +when he has finished. There is a little bit of superstition +attached to this smoothing over the sand. The +Moors always tell me when I write in this way to smooth +all over and never forget it. They invariably do so +themselves, and never leave a mark, or stroke, or dot of +the finger on the sand after they have done speaking or +writing.</p> + +<p>I was surprised to hear of the peculiar mode of the +Touarghee succession for Sultans or reigning royal +Sheikhs. It is the son of the <i>Sister</i> of the Sultan who +succeeds to the throne amongst all the Touaricks. I +have learnt since that the same custom prevails amongst +the Moorish tribes of the banks of the Senegal. Batouta +also mentions this singular custom as prevailing amongst +the Berber people of <i>Twalaten</i>, ‮ايوالاتن‬, in Western +Sahara, in these words—"The people call themselves<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-66" id="V2-66"></a>[<a href="images/2-66.png">66</a>]</span> +after the name of their maternal<a name="FNa_2-9" id="FNa_2-9"></a><a href="#FoN_2-9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> uncles; it is not the +sons of the fathers who inherit, but the nephews, sons +of the sister of the father." He adds:—<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: added missing quotation mark">"</ins>I have never +met with this usage before, except amongst the infidels +of Malabar (in India)." It would appear, these rude +children of The Desert have not sufficient confidence in +the succession of father and son, and think women should +not be put to so severe a test in the propagation of a +race of pure blood. Speaking to a Touarghee about it, +he said:—"How do we know, if the son of the Sultan +be his son? May he not be the son of a slave? Who +can tell? But when our young Sultan is born from the +sister of the Sultan, then we know he is of the same +blood as the Sultan." There is besides another anomaly +of the social system in the town of Ghat. Women here +are the hereditary possessors and not men. The law of +primogeniture is on the female side. The greater part +of the houses of the town of Ghat, although the population +is chiefly Moorish, belong to women, bequeathed to +them or given them on the day of <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'thier'">their</ins> marriage by +friends or relatives. These two cases of anomaly are +more favourable to womankind than what we mostly<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-67" id="V2-67"></a>[<a href="images/2-67.png">67</a>]</span> +find in Mahometan countries. I may not now scruple to +tell the Touaricks, that the Sovereign of England is a +female, for fear of giving them offence. It is a curious +fact, and may here be added, that the son rarely goes, +or travels, with the father, but always is pinned to his +mother's knee, or trudges along at her side; at last, he +loses all affection for his father, and concentrates his filial +love on his mother. This alienation of the son from the +father, is increased by the custom of the son inheriting +nothing from his father, but all through his mother.</p> + +<p><i>29th.</i>—A fine morning; the sun high in the heavens +scatters light and colour over all the Desert scene. In +tolerably good spirits, but utterly at a loss which route +I shall take. Visited Hateetah; he did not beg or annoy +me to-day, but told me to resolve upon my route. Prescribed +him some medicine, as also for another person, +who had the ill manners to say, "God has made the +infidels to be doctors for the Faithful." Yesterday evening, +the slaves of Haj Ibrahim (about fifty) danced and +sang and forgot their slavery. One young woman acted +various grotesque characters, and, amongst the rest, +<i>Boree</i>, "The Devil." When a Negro sulks, or is moody, +he is said to be possessed, or to have got in him <i>Boree</i>, +which agrees pretty well with our "<i>Blue-devils</i>." In these +evening pastimes they fancy themselves in the wild woods +of their native homes, and dance and sing to the rude +notes of their ruder instruments of music, and feel as if +free and like other mortals.</p> + +<p>Went out this morning to have a commanding view of +the oasis. Was accompanied by the uncle of Jabour, +who took hold of my hand, and pulled me on, when we +mounted the neighbouring piece of rock which com<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-68" id="V2-68"></a>[<a href="images/2-68.png">68</a>]</span>mands +the oasis and scenery around. From this block +of mountain, north of the city, we had a beautiful view of +the town, the oasis, and adjoining palms, and all the +Desert of the Valley of Ghat. To the south we saw the +date-palms of Berkat. To the east, is the black range +of mountains, throwing sombre shadows upon the scattered +sand-hills, which lie like shining heaps of silver at +their base. This range is higher than the average +height of Saharan mountains. The Touaricks say the +Genii built these mountains, to protect them (the Touaricks) +and their posterity from the inroads of the Turks, +and Gog and Magog, from the east. "These are," say +they, "our eastern doors (barriers)." Scarcely any +breaks or gorges are found in this chain. Beyond the +suburb, begirt with sand groups, stands the palace of +the Governor, which from hence looks like a line of fortifications, +with a tower or two rising above its battlements. +There reigns, king and priest, Haj Ahmed, the +lord of all he surveys. Sahara around has a varied +aspect of trees and plain, sand and mountains. The +contrasts are striking, and spite the gloom of Wareerat +range, it is a bright desert scene. The town is small, +and the gardens are also extremely limited; the oasis +is comprehended within a circle of not more than three +or four miles. The palms are dwarfish, and half of +them do not bear fruit, and their dates are of the most +ordinary kind. A sufficient proof that the date-palm is +not dependent on the quality of its water, otherwise the +palm of Ghat should be the finest and its fruit the most +delicious of The Sahara. On the contrary, in some of +the oases of Fezzan, where the water is literally salt, the +palm is a noble towering tree, catching the breathings of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-69" id="V2-69"></a>[<a href="images/2-69.png">69</a>]</span> +highest heaven, and casting down most luscious fruit. +Houses in Ghat have but a wretched appearance, and +are as wretched within as without. They are not white-washed, +or clean and bright and shining as Moorish houses +of the coast, and though the city is surrounded with +stones, and lime is procurable, they are nearly all constructed +of sun-dried bricks and mud. A few days of +incessant rain would wash many of them down. The +wood of construction is, of course, that of the palm. +The Desert furnishes no other available building wood. +Only one mosque tower deserves the name of minaret. +Besides, there is a huge building higher than the rest, +but which is inhabited as other houses. The town is +walled in with walls not more than ten feet high, but its +six gates are miserably weak, and never so closed as to +prevent their being opened in the night. The whole +town is built on a hill, a portion of the blocks of rock +from which we view it. This little place has one large +square, called <i>Esh-Shelly</i>—‮الشلّي‬—the general rendezvous +of business and gossip, and where Shafou and all +the subordinate Sheikhs administer justice. Here is held +the Souk, where everything important is done. But the +town-councils and state-councils of the Sheikhs are generally +held in the open air. Two or three palms within +the town cast a grateful shadow, and make an angle of +the streets picturesque, but no other trees are seen. On +the south, without the walls, is a suburb of some fifty +mud and stone houses. There are also scattered over +the sand, on the west, a hundred or more of hasheesh +huts, made of straw and palm-branches. In the gardens, +besides the palms, a little wheat, barley, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-70" id="V2-70"></a>[<a href="images/2-70.png">70</a>]</span> +ghusub is cultivated. There are some fruit-trees, but no +vines. Of water there are several large pits, and some +warm springs, but nothing approaching to the hot boiling +spring of Ghadames. There is, however, one large reservoir, +partly surrounded with palm-trees, and the +banks covered with rushes, except where the people go +to draw. The whole of this is enclosed within walls. +Water apparently oozes from a great extent of surface. +The water itself is of the first quality, and is said not +to produce bile or fever. The irrigation is the same in +principle as that of Ghadames, but slaves are employed +to draw up the water, whilst animals are used in Fezzan, +and in Ghadames the water runs itself into the gardens. +The places for burying the dead around the Saharan +towns occupy more space than the abodes of the living. +This is not surprising, when we reflect that every new +grave occupies a new piece of ground, and many years +elapse before the old grave is opened to place in it a fresh +body. I saw but one grave whitewashed; it was that of +a Marabout, the only "whitewashed sepulchre," and, +strange enough, it is to denote superior priestly sanctity +as in New Testament times amongst the Jews. The rest +were small stones heaped up in the shape of a grave, a +large piece of stone being placed at the head.</p> + +<p>The style of architecture, both here and in Ghadames, +is the same, except that of Ghadames is neater and more +fantastically elaborated. Most of the walls are surmounted +with a mud-plaster work, and the tops and +terraces of the houses are surmounted with the same +style of material, and generally very irregularly done, as +seen in the annexed diagram. The cupboards cut out or +excavated in the walls are of the shape of squares or<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-71" id="V2-71"></a>[<a href="images/2-71.png">71</a>]</span> +triangles, and the windows sometimes of the same shape, +but occasionally varying as seen in the diagram. All the +doors and beams of the houses, as before mentioned, are +of the date-palm wood. The doors are the usual long +squares, but some of them so low that you are obliged to +stoop to enter through them. This is very troublesome +to the Touaricks, who always carry their long spears +with them, as we our walking-sticks. I have noticed +here in The Sahara, as well as on the coast of Barbary, +very ingenious wooden lock-and-keys. The key is a +piece of wood six or eight inches long, and two broad, +covered at one end with little pegs. The lock is fitted +to these pegs by little holes. On the arrangement and +fitting of these pegs and holes depend the secrecy and +security of the lock. It is no easy matter at times to +unlock these locks, and requires a very practised hand. +The floors are covered with a thick layer of sand, even +many of the sleeping rooms, which sand is clean or dirty +according to the quality and cleanliness of the occupant.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill2-02.jpg"><img src="images/ill2-02_th.jpg" alt="Architectural detail of Houses" title="Architectural detail of Houses" /></a></p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-72" id="V2-72"></a>[<a href="images/2-72.png">72</a>]</span></p> + +<p>According to my friend Mr. Colli, the original meaning +of the term Ghat is <i>Sun</i> or <i>God</i>, in the Lybio-Egyptian +language. The Arabic is ‮غات‬, <i>Ghat</i>, but as +people fancy, like the French, they hear in the pronunciation +of the ‮غ‬ in <i>Ghat</i> the R, so our former tourists +have sometimes written the name of the town Gh<i>r</i>at, +and others Ghr<i>aa</i>t. The oasis of Ghat is situated in +24° 58′ north lat., and 11° 15′ east longitude.</p> + +<p>This afternoon received a visit from Khanouhen and +his brother, accompanied by Essnousee. This visit was +perhaps the most friendly of all which I have received +from the Touaricks. For evil or for good, it was, at the +time, the preponderating motive for attempting the tour +to Soudan. I felt more confidence in the Touaricks. +Khanouhen is a man advanced in life, full fifty years of +age. He has hard but intelligent features. Like all the +Sheikhs, he is tall and of powerful muscular frame. His +conversation consisted of a few words, but full of pride +and courage, and also to the point. He said:—"I do +not expect presents from a stranger who has come so far +to claim my hospitality. I can give you assistance +without presents. Cannot the man, who is to succeed +Shafou, be generous without bribes? It is not generosity +to render you assistance if you load me with presents. +The heir of the Touarick Sultan receives no presents: he +asks for none. We wish not to terrify strangers—even +those who do not believe in Mahomet—by acts of extortion +and plunder. I will write you a letter to the +Sultan of Aheer, so shall Shafou, so shall Hateetah. +The Sultan of Aheer must respect our letters. When he +does not, we make reprisals on his people. I am now +busy. I am going to exterminate the Shânbah. Our<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-73" id="V2-73"></a>[<a href="images/2-73.png">73</a>]</span> +maharees will soon overtake the robbers; not one of +them shall escape. We scorn the assistance of the +Turks. We are strong enough by ourselves. We want +no letters, no advice, no arms, no horses, no guns, from +the Pasha of Tripoli. All The Desert is ours; wherever +you go you find traces of our power. Be happy here, +fear nothing; for if you fear us, you lose our confidence, +and become our enemy." I have picked out the sense +and many of the exact expressions of this harangue, and +the reader will see that the Shereef, his son-in-law, did +not exaggerate his sense and fierce eloquence. Khanouhen, +indeed, is called "The man of speech," ‮رجل الكلام‬—by +the merchants. The Sheikh was superbly dressed +in the first style of the Touaricks, unlike his venerable +uncle the Sultan. He wore a scarlet gold-braided +coat, an immense red turban, and a huge black litham, +covering the upper and lower part of his face, and nearly +all his features. His arms were a dagger, a broadsword, +and a ponderous bright iron spear, which on entering my +apartment the Sheikh was obliged to leave outside.</p> + +<p>Weather to-day is as soft and genial as Italy. The +sky is overcast this evening, and rain threatens. Yesterday +I saw it lighten for the first time in The Sahara. +Flies live throughout winter here, and there is now +enough of them to give annoyance. An article which I +purchased to-day will give some idea of the retail trade +in Ghat. This was a barracan, of light and fine quality, +which cost me three Spanish dollars. In Tripoli, about +forty days' journey from this, it cost two mahboubs, +about a dollar and three-quarters. But I purchased it +for money; had it been exchanged for goods or slaves, it +would have been charged four dollars. This is nearly<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-74" id="V2-74"></a>[<a href="images/2-74.png">74</a>]</span> +cent. per cent. profit. Spent the evening with Haj +Ibrahim. Shafou had returned the merchant's visit, and +dined with him. The venerable Sheikh does not stand +upon etiquette. An affair came off to-day, which admirably +and most characteristically illustrates the mode of +administering justice in Ghat. Mustapha, the young +merchant of Tripoli, quarrelled with one of his Arabs, and +came to blows. Shafou chanced to pass by at the time. +His Highness immediately dispatched a servant to bring +the pugilists before him. Shafou then harangued them +and the bystanders, in this spirited manner:—"You see +these men come here to disturb our country. What +ungrateful wretches they are! Shall I suffer this? +Don't I protect them? Don't I allow them to gain money +at our Souk? They return with goods and innumerable +slaves to Tripoli. But they laugh at me and insult +me to my face, and trample upon our hospitality, +(<i>addressing a Sheikh</i>). Do you think, (<i>turning to the +combatants</i>,) there is no authority or justice in this +place? I'll let you know to the contrary. What do +you think the Christian will say, if he comes and sees +this? Now, you rascals, pay me each of you ten dollars." +This was followed by a violent intercession on +their behalf by the foreign merchants, some blaming one +and some the other. His Highness was obliged to compromise +the matter, accepting of a dollar from each. It +is probable His Highness was more anxious to inflict the +penalty than quell the tumult; but I was quite unprepared +for such an eloquent address from the ancient +patriarch of the country. Considering the great number +of strangers, there are very few quarrels. "Ghat," as +was said before I came, "is a country of peace." Were<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-75" id="V2-75"></a>[<a href="images/2-75.png">75</a>]</span> +a bazaar of this sort held in Europe (for example an +English fair), there would be a row every day, and +every hour of the day. Nevertheless, this does not prevent +us from calling these Saharan people barbarians.</p> + +<p><i>30th.</i>—Very mild weather this morning, but overcast +as if rain would soon fall. I have not been long enough +in The Desert to read the weather signs, or become +weather-wise. Keep the door shut, to prevent an influx +of visitors. Now and then a few people get in. Whilst +eating my supper this evening, I was surprised at the +appearance of two little ragged boys. I asked what +they wanted, they returned, "Eat, eat, we want to eat." +I went out to see them, for they stood on the terrace in +the dark. Here I found one of the audacious urchins +flourishing a spear ten times as big as himself, menacing +me with it. I pushed the little scoundrels down stairs +into the street. I could not however help remarking +upon their audacity, and the early infant habits of +Touarghee "begging by force." The Ghadamsee people +have always been the fair game of the Touaricks. Asking +one day a Ghadamsee, "What occupation the Touaricks +followed?" he replied indignantly, "Beg, beg, beg, +this is their trade! When they get money, they bury +it, and beg, beg, beg!" This perhaps, is overstated, still +it is curious to witness this first lesson of "we want to +eat," repeated by children of very tender age, with a tone +of command and insolence. Khanouhen does not send for +his present, and I hear, he will not receive presents. I +shall have the more to give away at Aheer.</p> + +<p><i>31st.</i>—Fine morning. I am surprised at my simplicity; +but, apparently, the only thing which I enjoy with +pure feelings, is the song of the little birds, the <i>boo</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-76" id="V2-76"></a>[<a href="images/2-76.png">76</a>]</span><i>habeeba</i>, +which frequent my terrace and the house-top, as +sparrows familiarly in England. With these I feel I can +hold free converse and interchange an unadulterated +sympathy. The innocent little creatures remind me of +my days of childhood, when I revelled in the woods and +corn-fields of Lincolnshire, listening to the song of birds +in early fresh spring morn, or bright summer day. Here +was the tender chord of childhood associations touched, +and no wonder that memory should come in to the aid +of sympathy in these unsympathizing deserts. How +little at times contents the heart, and fills the aching +vacuum of the mind! In this we cannot fail to see an +arrangement of infinite wisdom. If only great things +could satisfy the mind of man, how prodigiously our +miseries would be increased, for how few are the things +deserving to be called great! Called this morning on +Hateetah. Put him in a better humour, by telling him +I would give him an extra present. On returning, stopped +at a stall, where were exposed for sale, onions, trona, +dates, and other things. The women immediately caught +alarm, afraid I was going to throw a glance of "the evil +eye" on their little property. They cried out, "There +is one God, and Mahomet is the prophet of God!" I +made off quick enough from this unseemly uproar. Saw +afterwards the Governor. Called to ask him to allow +his servants to make me some cuscasou, which request +his Excellency granted immediately. He said:—"In +travelling to Soudan adopt the dress of the Ghadamsee +merchants, and let your beard grow." The Governor +refuses to say anything of Kandarka. Probably they +have quarrelled. Our merchants give the Tibboos a bad +character, and the caravans are afraid of them.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-9" id="FoN_2-9"></a><a href="#FNa_2-9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Amongst the Servians the mother's brother was "a very important +personage." Ranke says:—"Amongst the early Germans, +families were held together by a peculiar preference on the mother's +side; the mother's brother being, according to ancient custom, a +very important personage. In the Sclavonic-Servian tribe, there +prevails, to a greater extent, a strong and lively feeling of brotherly +and sisterly affection; the brother is proud of having a sister; the +sister swears by the name of her brother."—(<i>See</i> Mrs. Alexander +Kerr's admirable translation of Ranke's <i>Servian History, &c.</i>, chap. +iv., p. 56.)</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-77" id="V2-77"></a>[<a href="images/2-77.png">77</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2> + +<h3>ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Violent Act of a Touarick on Slaves.—Visit to the Princess Lilla +Fatima.—Mode of grinding Corn.—Dilatoriness of Commercial +Transactions.—Grandees of Ghat Town.—Khanouhen refuses +his Present.—Rumours of the Conquest of Algeria spread +throughout Africa.—Small Breed of Animals in Sahara.—Queer +circumstance of unearthly Voices.—The Cold becomes intense.—Arrival +of Sheikh Berka.—Hateetah in good Humour.—My +Targhee friend, Sidi Omer.—Visit from Kandarka; his Character.—Visit +to the aged Berka, and find the Giant.—Hateetah's +Political Gossips.—At a loss which Route to take, and how to +proceed.—Superstitions connected with the Butcher.—Zeal of +an old Hag against The Christian.—Out of Humour.—Reported +departure of Caravans.—Jabour calls with a Patient.—Visit +Bel Kasem, and find Khanouhen.—Political Factions of Azgher +Touaricks.—Giants in The Desert.—Fanciful analogies of origin +of Peoples.—Hierarchy of the Sheikhs.—Population, Arms, +and Military Forces of the Ghat Touaricks.—The Mahry or +Maharee.—Camels named from their Fleetness.—Touarghee +Court of Justice.—Amphitheatrical style of Touaricks lounging.—Amount +of Customs-Dues paid by Ghat Traders.—Free +Trade in Sahara.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>1st January, 1846.</i>—<span class="smcap">Yesterday</span> I saw two slaves, +both of whom had gashes on their arms and legs, the +blood flowing from one poor fellow profusely. I asked,</p> + +<p>"Who has done this?"</p> + +<p><i>The Slaves.</i>—"A Touarghee."</p> + +<p>"What for?" I continued.</p> + +<p><i>The Slaves.</i>—"Nothing."</p> + +<p>I found afterwards the slaves were doing some work in +the gardens which the Touarghee thought should have +been given to him. Touaricks seldom get into passion,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-78" id="V2-78"></a>[<a href="images/2-78.png">78</a>]</span> +but when the blood boils the dagger is immediately had +recourse to for the arrangement of their quarrels. The +Touaricks have many slaves, but male slaves, for they +rarely mix their blood with the negro race. Called upon +Hateetah with his extra present of four dollars' value. +He then began in an excited humour, "To-morrow come +to me, Shafou will be here. We must arrange to send a +maharee to the English Sultan." I suggested his brother +should take it to Tripoli. He sprung up from his bed +with joy, "Yes, good, Shafou and I will arrange everything. +Nobody else must come here but you. It must +be all done in secret." Hateetah is frightened of Khanouhen, +and knows the Sultan has no will of his own +unless kept apart from that powerful prince. Touaricks, +when something is to be had, soon gets excited, like the +rest of us.</p> + +<p>Afterwards, Said and I carried the present for Khanouhen +to the prince's house. I spoke to the Governor, +who recommended me, by all means, notwithstanding the +Sheikh's protestations, to send him a handsome present. +I submitted to the Governor's opinion. Khanouhen +resides in some apartments of the Governor's palace; this +is the prince's town residence. We were conducted to +the apartment of his lady, Lilla Fatima, (the prince +being out,) by her nephews. Her Royal Highness received +us courteously, and the interview was extremely +amusing. I began by apologizing for the top of "the +head of sugar<a name="FNa_2-10" id="FNa_2-10"></a><a href="#FoN_2-10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>" being broken off. This made the lady +almost faint. "What!" she protestingly exclaimed, +"Khanouhen is The Great Sultan! Shafou is compared<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-79" id="V2-79"></a>[<a href="images/2-79.png">79</a>]</span> +to him like the sand! (taking up a little sand from the +floor and scattering it about with her hands.) My husband +is lord and master of all the Touaricks. He has +the word ready; from his lips, all the Touaricks, all the +merchants, all the strangers, all the Christians who come +here, receive their commands and instantly obey them. +And you bring him a loaf of sugar with the head +knocked off! Oh, this is not pretty! This is not +right, and I am afraid for your sake." I pleaded inability +to find another loaf this morning, but promised to bring +one to-morrow. Her Royal Highness then begged for +more things. "You see the <i>grunfel</i> (cloves) is not for +me; it is for Khanouhen's other wife in the country. +Khanouhen will take it all away to her, and leave me +none. Now you must, indeed, bring me some <i>grunfel</i>." +I then recommended her to get it divided, at which she +laughed heartily, adding, "Ah, Khanouhen likes her in +the country better than me." I then put Her Royal +Highness in a good humour by telling her I would send +her some beads, and if I should return to Tripoli, and +come back to Ghat, I would bring her several presents. +She added, "My husband Khanouhen related to me all +the things which you intended to give him, which you +showed him in your room. Also, you said you would +give him a little lock and key, where is it?"</p> + +<p>This I had not brought with me, thinking the Sheikh +would not accept of such a trifling thing, but I was mistaken. +The Touaricks will take everything you offer +them, and not hurt your self-complacency of conferring +a favour by refusal. I must finish with this lady, whose +tongue ran along at a tremendous rate, by adding, that +to show her regard for me, (and for herself likewise,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-80" id="V2-80"></a>[<a href="images/2-80.png">80</a>]</span> +wishing me to return to Tripoli to fetch her some nice +presents,) her Royal Highness gave me this advice: +"For God's sake don't go to Soudan. You'll die there +soon. How can you, a Christian, live there with such a +white skin? The people who go there are all black, and +have large swollen faces, (imitating them by blowing out +her cheeks,) they are puffed out and nasty, they become +as ugly as the devil himself." The town wife and lady +of the Sheikh, who is heir-apparent to the Touarghee +throne of Ghat, is herself a comely bustling body, rather +stout, of middle size, about thirty-five years of age; and +were she dressed in European style, she might, with her +fine black eyes, look as well as some of our courtly +dames. Her Royal Highness had nothing on but a plain +Soudan black cotton gown, with short sleeves, and a +light woollen barracan, as a sort of shawl, wrapped round +her shoulders, partly covering her head. She had a few +charms and some coloured beads adorning the neck; two +gold bracelets on her wrist, and two thick hoops of +silver round her ancles. A pair of coloured-leather sandals, +made in Soudan, were bound on her feet. She had +no colour, save the usual sallow of Moorish ladies, on her +cheek, but she had no disfigurement of tattooing or other +marks upon her, so common in Saharan beauties.</p> + +<p>After the delivery of the present I called to see the +Governor, the lady's brother. Told him of my sudden +resolution of abandoning the journey to Soudan the +present year. He highly approved of my resolution, +and seemed relieved of a great embarrassment, for, +although very cautious in what he said, he always considered +himself responsible more or less for my safety. +I found his Excellency, but not to my surprise, pur<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-81" id="V2-81"></a>[<a href="images/2-81.png">81</a>]</span>chasing +half a dozen slaves, young lads. The Marabout +merchant does not scruple to deal in human beings. +The fact is, his Excellency scruples at no kind of trade, +by which he may "turn a penny," or "save a penny." +Returned home and wrote to Tripoli; but when the +letter was finished the courier was gone. As often +happens, was glad afterwards the letter did not go.</p> + +<p>The mode of grinding corn here, if I may use the +term grinding, is of the most primitive character possible. +It is nothing more or less than rubbing the corn between +two stones, the lower stone being large and smoothed off +on its surface, with an inclined plane, and the upper +stone very small compared to the lower. Thus—</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill2-03.jpg"><img src="images/ill2-03_th.jpg" alt="Stones for grinding Corn" title="Stones for grinding Corn" /></a></p> + +<p>A small basket catches the meal as it falls off, or is +pushed off by the person, who holds the upper stone in +his hands, and works it up and down over the surface of +the lower stone. Slaves and women so grind wheat, +barley, ghusub, &c. The meal is scarcely ever winnowed. +In Aheer, a large wooden pestle and mortar are used +for grinding, rather pounding, the corn. The slaves +living with me have a huge wooden pestle and mortar, +and we frequently use it. It requires great tact in the +pounding, otherwise the grain will be continually flying +out. I pounded dates with it, which with a little olive oil, +and roasted grain pounded with them, adding a few grains +of Soudan pepper and a little dry cheese, make very nice<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-82" id="V2-82"></a>[<a href="images/2-82.png">82</a>]</span> +cake, or it is esteemed nice cake in Ghat. Corn and +ghusub are given to day-labourers <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'intead'">instead</ins> of money. A +slave will have about a quarter of a peck of barley, or +other grain, given him for a day's work; occasionally is +added to it, a few dates or a little liquid butter: on this +he must live.</p> + +<p>The Souk of Ghat, thank heaven, is nearly closed. +The business, which has been transacted here during the +last month, would have been done in England in one or +two days at most. But our Saharan merchants are determined +to do everything, <i>be-shwaiah, be-shwaiah</i>, "by +little and by little." The greatest trial of patience for +an European merchant frequenting this Souk would be +the dilatoriness with which commercial transactions are +carried on. A month usually passes before the Souk +opens, and six weeks more are consumed before a merchant +can or will get off, although, as his merchandize +consists chiefly of slaves, his delay is all against himself, +eating him up and his profits. The details of the +traffic are really curious. A slave is heard of one day, +talked about the next, searched out the day after, seen +the next, reflections next day, price fixed next, goods +offered next, squabblings next, bargain upset next, new +disputes next, goods assorted next, final arrangement +next, goods delivered and exchanged next, &c., &c., and +the whole of this melancholy exhibition of a wrangling +cupidity over the sale of human beings is wound up by +the present of a few parched peas, a few Barbary +almonds, and a little tobacco being given to the +Soudanese merchants, the parties separating with as much +self-complacency, as if they had arranged the mercantile +affairs of all Africa.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-83" id="V2-83"></a>[<a href="images/2-83.png">83</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>2nd.</i>—Visited this evening Hateetah. He says, the +Sultan and himself will call upon me to-morrow, and +arrange the present which is to be sent to Her Majesty. +Afterwards called upon the Governor, to ask him where +Haj Abdullah of Bengazi resided. He leaves for +Fezzan in eight or ten days, and has offered to take me +with him. Called afterwards on Mohammed Kafah. +Found him friendly, but he, assisted by his brother, +began again to annoy me about Mahomet, Paradise, and +hell-fire. I told them, "All good people, whatever their +creed, must be blessed with the favour of God. Such +was the native sentiment in all our hearts." Kafah said, +"Many English have turned Mussulmans." I told him +very few, and those mostly good-for-nothing runaways. +He asked why we did not repeat their formula? I told +him we all did the first part, "There is but one God;" +but the second was prohibited by Christians. I left +them very angry. It is next to impossible to induce +Saharan Mahometans to think favourably of Christianity. +If Christianity ever be propagated here, it must be +through the means of youth and children. The merchants +Kafah and Tunkana, the Kady Tahar, and Haj +Ahmed the Governor, are the knot of personages and +grandees in this little Saharan town. All the rest are +sorry traders, camel-drivers, and slaves. The Touaricks +are only town visitors, and always retire to their country +districts at the close of the periodic marts.</p> + +<p>Weather to-day is excessively cold, the wind blowing +from the north-east. Everybody is frightened at the +wind, and there is no Souk, or market, till very late. I +myself feel the cold extremely, so I am not surprised to +see the Soudanese people all shut up in their houses<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-84" id="V2-84"></a>[<a href="images/2-84.png">84</a>]</span> +crowding over a smoking fire, with the rooms full of +smoke, and nearly suffocating the inmates.</p> + +<p>To my great surprise, and contrary to every expectation, +Prince Khanouhen has sent his present back in a +great rage, not directly, indeed, to me, but to my neighbour +Bel-Kasem, saying, with a thousand different +remarks, embellished with oaths, "I will not accept of +such a miserable present." Bel Kasem calls upon me in +a prodigious fright, prostrate under the ire of the incensed +Chieftain, and thus pleads in his favour: +"Khanouhen considers himself a greater Sheikh even +than Shafou the Sultan. He is greatly dissatisfied with +so small a present; increase it a little for God's sake—if +you are going to Soudan, you must add something +considerable: if not, just a little to pacify him. +Khanouhen has got a large belly; pray satisfy him, for +he can do more for you than any other Sheikh in Ghat. +Indeed, Khanouhen is very angry with you for sending +him such a trifle, and for taking it to his wife. Why did +you take the present to his wife? Now, take my +advice: the Sheikh just dropped out, if you will give +him ten dollars in money, he will send you the present +of goods back. Send him only the value of the goods in +money, and then he will be satisfied. Khanouhen has +got a stomach bigger than that of all the Sheikhs. He +rages against you like fire: satisfy him for Heaven's sake."</p> + +<p>I immediately sent back Bel Kasem to find the +Sheikh, and to propose to him to take back the goods, +and give him money instead, or add a little money to +the goods. So then this is the great bravado of +Khanouhen, that he could not soil his fingers by taking +presents! I expect I shall soon be stripped. There<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-85" id="V2-85"></a>[<a href="images/2-85.png">85</a>]</span> +are, unfortunately, so many Sheikhs, that to give handsome +presents to them all, would amount to a large sum. +A burning jealousy rankles in their breasts about these +Souk presents. Each wishes to be the greater man, in +order to have more presents, though all acknowledge +Shafou on the principle of "right divine," or "the right of +the Genii." There is a controversy going on about Haj +Ibrahim, as to which of the Sheikhs is his friend, or protector, +to whom he is to send his little present of tribute. +Of course I feel extremely annoyed and disheartened +to have a quarrel of this sort with the +man who has the greatest influence in the country. But +I must hold out, since my situation is not yet desperate. +As something agreeable, in counterpoise, I may mention +that Haj Ibrahim, on visiting the Sultan, found His +Highness reclining on the carpet-rug which I gave him. +His Highness said to the merchant, smiling with satisfaction, +"See, this is what The Christian gave me." It is +the present given to the Sultan which has excited the +jealous indignation of his nephew. But the Sheikhs have +broken through the rule, or I have myself, for Hateetah +only has the right of a present from me.</p> + +<p><i>3rd.</i>—A fine morning, and warmer, but the wind is +still high. Over the open desert is a sort of a dirty-red +mist, which people tell me is the sand.</p> + +<p>Since Shafou and Hateetah did not come this morning +as promised, I called on Hateetah to know the +reason. Hateetah had a cold in his eyes, and could not +go out. He added, "Shafou is busy in enrolling troops +for the Shânbah expedition." Hateetah had many visitors +whilst I was there. A Ghatee, to my surprise, asked +me, "How long slaves would be allowed to be sold in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-86" id="V2-86"></a>[<a href="images/2-86.png">86</a>]</span> +Tripoli?" I answered, "Some time yet." He had heard +of my being connected with abolition. Another, just +returned from Soudan, said:—"The people of Soudan +say the Emperor of Morocco has taken possession of +Algeria." I was unprepared for such a rumour in the +heart of Africa, and coming from The South, instead of +going to The South. Of this irregularity the Saharan +newsmongers never think. But the fact is, the conquest +of Algeria by a powerful Christian nation is felt in every +part of The Desert, and reaches the farthest peregrinations +of the merchants. These wars and rumours of +wars, however, are turned whenever possible in favour +of the Mussulmans. It is probable the attempted invasion +of Oran by the son of the Emperor, was immediately +transformed into the conquest of that province by +desert reports. Another person asked me, "Whether +the Government of Constantinople was that of the Sultan +himself, or the Christians?" I observed:—"The +Sultan's Government is very much influenced by Christian +Powers." It has long been the opinion of Barbary +Moors, that the late Sultan Mahmoud was a Greek in +the disguise of a Mussulman; and the same stigma sticks +to his son. This opinion has acquired strength and +obtained general currency by the European reforms which +the Ottomans have lately introduced into their administration. +Many questions of this kind were asked, and, in +the presence of Hateetah when no insolence would be +tolerated, the people seemed less bigoted. This is the +advantage of having an English agent, if possible, in +these remote districts, like Hateetah. Passing through +the gardens, I saw some horses and bullocks, and was +surprised at their dwarfish dimensions. In Central<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-87" id="V2-87"></a>[<a href="images/2-87.png">87</a>]</span> +Africa, horses are frequently found of a very dwarfish +breed. The horses were unwhisped and sorry-looking +ponies, with their bellies pinched in. The bullocks cut +an equally queer figure. I have noticed that fowls here +are very small, but very lively, catching the fire of a +long Saharan summer. The cocks, which are so many +bantams, are indeed all fire, attacking you with fierceness. +Two of the Governor's sons called at noon. One +flourished a spear, which he said was "to beat Christians +with." I pushed him out of my apartment down stairs. +With such customers it is the only plan. Another son +called a short time afterwards, and asked me to lend him +three dollars, which, of course, I refused. His Excellency +knows nothing of the tricks of these young gentlemen, +or they would soon be put to rights. Two Arabs, just +returned from Soudan, called and said:—"Go to Soudan, +there's not much sickness, go <i>viâ</i> Aheer. The road +<i>viâ</i> Bornou is not safe now." This is what I conjectured, +after hearing of the skirmishes and the retreat of the son +of Abd-el-Geleel before the Turks up to Bornou.</p> + +<p>Late this evening, on descending to the lower rooms of +the house, which were nearly dark, very little light indeed +penetrating the lower part of the house at any time of +the day, I found the street-door open, and two long huge +figures scarcely visible in the gloom, standing up against +the wall on opposite sides of the large room. I retreated +back a few paces in alarm. The slaves +were all out, as also Said. Presently I heard two gruff +voices begin from the different parts of the room, in long +and measured and doleful accents. One repeated, +"There is no God but God, and Mahomet is the prophet +of God." The words were repeated very slowly and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-88" id="V2-88"></a>[<a href="images/2-88.png">88</a>]</span> +solemnly, and at considerable intervals, +"La - - lillah - - ella - - ellaha - - wa - - Mo-ham-med - - ra-soul - - ellaha!" +The other voice uttered in equally grave and solemn +accents, "Bor-nou-se! Bor-nou-se! Bor-nou-se!" The +first voice appalled me, for I did not know but what I +was going to receive the stroke of a dagger through the +deep gloom, in case of my refusing to comply with +repeating the Mahometan formula, or confession of faith; +but the second voice reassured me, I felt the parties were +begging in the style of Ouweek, "Your money or your +life." I besides recognized at once the parties to be some +low fellows of the Touaricks. The street-door was wide +open, though no one was passing by. As soon as I +could distinguish the import of these strange unearthly +voices, which seemed to rise from the ground like the +mutterings of the wizard, I saw the only course before +me was, as all the servants were absent, to rush out into +the street. I made a spring right by one of the Touaricks, +leaving a portion of my slight woollen bornouse +caught by the hilt of his dagger. I went off to Haj +Ibrahim, but said nothing about it, not knowing correctly +what might have been the intentions of the Touaricks. I +always found the Touaricks displeased, even the Sheikhs, +when any complaints were made against them. Shafou, +himself, always told me, "My people will be as kind to +you as I am," and would not hear of complaints. I comprehended +the course before me, and complained of no one. +On my return home I heard nothing, and said nothing. I +took the precaution, however, of not allowing Said to +leave the house when the Governor's slaves were out. I +may mention now, that Ouweek's affair was entirely +smuggled up, and never even alluded to by the Sultan or<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-89" id="V2-89"></a>[<a href="images/2-89.png">89</a>]</span> +Khanouhen. The policy of Khanouhen is not to allow +a suspicion of this sort to be whispered abroad. In his +own words:—"We are hospitable, we are men of honour, +of one word, and we cannot commit a dastardly action." +The reader will hereafter see the result, so far as my +visit amongst the Touaricks was concerned.</p> + +<p><i>4th.</i>—Awfully cold this morning, and can scarcely +bear my miserable apartment, which affords very little +shelter from the wind and cold, having neither door nor +window-holes closed up. No one to be seen in the +streets; all "struck upon a heap" with the cold, and shut +up in the houses. At noon, when the sun began to be +felt, went out to see Bel Kasem, and was pleased to hear +that Khanouhen would compound with me, and receive +five or six dollars in cash, instead of the present. The +sugar and cloves, beads and looking-glasses were not to +be returned, but to be left for the Sheikh's ladies. I +felt much relieved; it was not very pleasant to be in a +contest with the actual Sultan of the country.</p> + +<p>Berka, the most aged and venerable Sheikh of the +great families, arrived yesterday from his district, bringing +with him numerous followers.</p> + +<p>Called upon Hateetah, and gave him an additional +present, the whole now amounting to eight dollars. He +is, of course, in a very good humour, and considers I +have treated him like the English Consul. He proposed +to me that I should get him officially appointed British +Consul by the Queen. His pretensions are not exorbitant; +he would be contented with fifty dollars a year. +He might be useful. The difficulty would be official +correspondence. The Touarghee Consul would be obliged +to employ an Arabic Secretary.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-90" id="V2-90"></a>[<a href="images/2-90.png">90</a>]</span></p> + +<p>My young and kind Touarghee friend Sidi Omer, +called this afternoon. He is more like an English +acquaintance of years' standing than a Desert Touarghee +whom I saw but yesterday. I asked him to take cuscasou +with me. He observed, "No, that must not be; +a little sugar I'll take, a little perfume for my wife I'll +take, but I must not eat your cuscasou, for you are a +stranger. You ought to eat my cuscasou. The Touaricks +must not eat the cuscasou of strangers, and so +friendly like you." I offered to take him with me to +Tripoli. He answered, "No, not now, I must first go +and fight the Shânbah. Then I'll return and come to +you in Tripoli, God willing; nay, I'll visit you in your +country, and you shall show me your Sheikh." In fact, +this young man is free from those fanatical prejudices disfiguring +so many of his countrymen. He is most amiable +and gentle, too gentle for these Saharan wilds. Occasionally +he escorts me about the town, and always keeps +off the rabble. After my friend, Kandarka called on me. +I did not know the fellow, he having twisted a white +turban round his head. Strange, this Aheer camel-driver +visited me before I called upon him and sent for him, +and when he came I did not recognize him again, on +account of his assuming such Protean shapes. To-day +I was much pleased with his intelligence and the frankness +of his conversation. I opened my journal, and showed +him his name written in it, that he might see, if I did not +recognize him, yet he occupied my attention, for his name +was already inscribed with Christian letters in my book. +He was so delighted, at the sight of his name in the +book, that he sprung up, made a summerset on the +terrace, took up his sword and flourished it in the air,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-91" id="V2-91"></a>[<a href="images/2-91.png">91</a>]</span> +and then sat down again, staring and grinning in my +face as if he had been imbibing laughing gas. There is +more negro blood and negro antics in him than the +ordinary Touaricks of Aheer. He represents Noufee as +a great country of trade, and inhabited by Pagans and +Mohammedans. Kandarka introduced religion, but finding +the English prayed and acknowledged a God, he was +satisfied and dropped the subject.</p> + +<p><i>Kandarka.</i>—"English, pray?" (bending his forehead +to the ground.)</p> + +<p>"Yes, yes."</p> + +<p><i>Kandarka.</i>—"Sultan English, cut off plenty heads," +(making a stroke with a sword).</p> + +<p>"Yes, yes."</p> + +<p><i>Kandarka.</i>—"Sultan English, plenty wives has he," +(making an indecent sign).</p> + +<p>"Yes, yes."</p> + +<p><i>Kandarka.</i>—"English women, plenty fat—big all +round," (describing a lady's bustle).</p> + +<p>"Yes, yes."</p> + +<p><i>Kandarka.</i>—"English, slaves, slaves!"</p> + +<p>(I shake my head.)</p> + +<p><i>Kandarka.</i>—"How? How?"</p> + +<p>(I shake my head.)</p> + +<p><i>Kandarka.</i>—"Where are you going?"</p> + +<p>"I don't know."</p> + +<p><i>Kandarka.</i>—"Come to Aheer with me, I fear no one. +You fear no one when you come with me."</p> + +<p>"I don't fear any one but God."</p> + +<p><i>Kandarka.</i>—"G— it's the truth!" (seizing hold of +my hands to embrace me.)</p> + +<p>I cannot but lament my feeble powers, to depict the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-92" id="V2-92"></a>[<a href="images/2-92.png">92</a>]</span> +character of my various visitors, and to represent their +ideas in English. I am obliged to be content with a +bald outline of their characters, and a miserable translation +of their thoughts into English dress. This Kandarka +is in himself a complete character, and a study for +the tourist.</p> + +<p>This evening paid a visit to Berka, the most aged +Sheikh. It was dark when I arrived at his date-branch +hut. I entered; it was a large enclosure. I found the +aged Sheikh with several of his brothers, and they and +their children sitting round a flickering fire. One of +them was dressed in white. I asked the reason. The +Sheikh told me he was a Marabout. The French Government +writers of Algeria have distinguished Touaricks +into white and black Touaricks, from the white and +black clothes which they are said to wear. I never +heard of this distinction. Now and then I have seen +a Touarick dressed in white cottons, or woollens; it +seemed to be a matter of caprice. All dress in black +and blue-black cottons of Soudan; it is the national +colour. And here we have a new case of contrarieties +in Mussulman nations living near neighbours, for the +Moors and Arabs detest black as much as the Touaricks +admire black. The Touaricks seem to have caught the +infection from the colour of their country, which is intersected +with ranges of black mountains. In one of the +early skirmishes of the French in Algeria, an officer +describes the appearance of the enemy, as covering the +mountain's side, whence they sallied, with a white mantle, +the Arabs were so thick and their burnouses so white. +Berka was very gentle and affable, like every man of a +good old age. "You are welcome in this country," he<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-93" id="V2-93"></a>[<a href="images/2-93.png">93</a>]</span> +addressed me; "this is a country of peace." Whilst +conversing with the old Sheikh, I heard a gruff heavy +whisper from the farther end of the hut, <i>Hash-Hālik</i>, +"How do you do?" I turned round, and to my no +small astonishment, I saw the Giant Touarick, stretched +along the full length of the very large hut, sweltering in +the fulness of his might. The reader will remember the +honourable mention made of The Giant in Ghadames. +He then raised up his massy head and Atlantean chest, +and put out his brawny sinewy arm, and clenched my +hand: "Yâkob, the Shânbah have murdered my little +son, <i>they</i> are the enemies of man and God, not <i>you</i> +Christians. I am going to cut them all to pieces. Last +year I killed eight with my own good sword. When you +come back from Soudan, you will not hear any more +even the name of the Shânbah." The Giant groaned +out this in bad Arabic. He was greatly afflicted for the +loss of his son. The Shânbah brigands fell upon a +troop of Touaricks, in whose care he had left his little +son, a child of very tender age, I presented Berka with +a fine large white turban, and we parted good friends. +The Giant is the nephew of Berka.</p> + +<p><i>5th.</i>—Called upon Hateetah. He had, as usual, many +visitors. Conversation turned upon politics. They were +anxious to know the relative amount of the military +forces of the nations of Europe, and of the Stamboul +Sultan. I always tell them France has plenty of money +and troops. This keeps down their boasting, for the +French are near, and they are alarmed, and they think, +as an Englishman, I must tell the truth when I praise the +French. If I abused the French they might suspect me, +but I have no inclination to do so. At the same time,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-94" id="V2-94"></a>[<a href="images/2-94.png">94</a>]</span> +I'll defy any traveller to write fairly and justly upon the +late history of North Africa, without filling his pages +with <i>bonâ fide</i> and well-founded abuse of the French and +their works in this part of the world. They emphatically +stink throughout Africa. Hateetah vexed me +by begging a <i>backsheesh</i> for his brothers. I positively +refused; there's no end to making presents. All the +Sheikhs, as Bel Kasem Said of Khanouhen, have "a +large belly." On returning home, I determined to keep +the door shut to prevent people coming to annoy me. +Now that I have no sugar or dates left, I have nothing +wherewith to get rid of them. Every visitor who leaves +me, without a small present, however trifling it may be, +considers himself insulted by me, or that I don't like +him.</p> + +<p>Still at a loss to know what to do, whether to proceed +to Soudan, or return and finish my tour of the Mediterranean. +Sometimes I fancy I'll toss up, and then, +checking my folly, I'll try the <i>sortes sanctorum</i>; a feather +would turn the scale. On such miserable indecision +hangs the fate of man!</p> + +<p>Bought half a sheep for a Spanish dollar. It's not +much of a bargain, for it is one of the Soudan species, +and very thin and bony. Touarick flocks are nearly all +this kind of sheep. When the Arab, who was "halves +with me," divided the carcase, he took two pieces of +wood, and then sent Said down stairs. One of the +pieces he gave me, and the other he kept. He now, taking +back my piece, called Said to return, and told him to +put each piece of wood on each half of the sheep. My +piece determined my half, and his piece his half. This +is the Arab <i>sortes sanctorum</i>. The butcher had sprinkled<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-95" id="V2-95"></a>[<a href="images/2-95.png">95</a>]</span> +his hayk with the blood, a drop or two were on it, and +he was distressed to wash them out lest they should +prevent him saying his prayers. A portion of the +entrails, the spleen, he applied to his eyes as a talisman +for their preservation.</p> + +<p>There is an old woman very fond of annoying me; +let us suppose she must be a witch; she always calls out +after me when I pass her stall, "There is but one God and +Mahomet is the prophet of God." To-day, words would +not suffice; the old hag ran after me and thumped me +over the back, to show her zeal for Mahomet, who, +begging pardon of his Holiness, has not, after all, been +so very kind to the ladies in his religion, unless it be +the compliment which he has paid them, by placing all +the imaginable felicity of Paradise in their embraces. I +took no notice of the virago. I find it's no use. I was +glad, however, to hear she was not Touarick, and only a +Billingsgate Mooress of the place. I am also happy to tell +my fair readers, she was not fair but very ugly. A large +party of people followed me home, hooting me, to give +them something to eat. This rabble fancies they have +the right to insult a Christian, unless he gives them +something to eat or to wear. To bear all this, and ten +thousand little delicate attentions of the rabble of Ghat, +requires, as Mr. Fletcher hints, "Conciliation," with an +occasional dose, I should think, of that most necessary +of all Saharan equipments, in travelling through The +Desert. <span class="smcap">patience</span>.</p> + +<p><i>6th.</i>—Sulky with the insolence of the rabble, and +determined not to go out till the evening. A brother +or cousin of Hateetah called to beg, and being in a bad +humour, I told him I was just going round the town to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-96" id="V2-96"></a>[<a href="images/2-96.png">96</a>]</span> +ask for a few presents myself, in return for those I had +given to the people. He was not abashed, but answered, +"Good, good." He waited half an hour in silence, for +I got to my writing, and went off much pleased, I should +imagine, with his visit. One of the slaves of the +Governor came in, and said sharply, "What's that +fellow <i>douwar</i> (<i>i. e.</i> go about seeking)?" "He wants +you to give him some of your <i>gusub</i> (grain.)" "<i>Kelb</i>" +(dog), he replied. This slave himself was a brazen-faced +beggar, and a bit of a thief, but withal a droll fellow. +I asked him how he was captured? He answered, +naïvely, "You know Fezzan, you know Ghat;—well, +these two countries make the war, and catch me a boy." +"How do you like Haj Ahmed, your master?" "He +has plenty wives, plenty children: we slaves must plenty +work for all these. Now, I like to eat. Haj Ahmed, +he Governor, but he gives me nothing to eat. I work +for him six hours—I work for others six hours. The +people give me to eat, not Haj Ahmed."</p> + +<p>This is the character of slave-labour in Ghat. The +masters have half of their labour for nothing, or because +they are their slaves: with the rest of their labour they +support themselves. The <i>meum et tuum</i> is not, and +indeed cannot be very strictly observed by the poor +people who have to support such a precarious existence; +and when Said went down to bring up the meat to cook +for supper, he found this young gentleman had carried it +nearly all off to cook for his own supper, leaving what +remained for us to make the best of.</p> + +<p>It is now reported that every stranger will leave Ghat +in five or six days, one ghafalah going to the south, +another to the north, one to the east, and another to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-97" id="V2-97"></a>[<a href="images/2-97.png">97</a>]</span> +the west. To these five or six days ten or twenty +may be added. This is ordinary calculation of Desert +time.</p> + +<p>Afternoon, Jabour called with a young man, who had +a bullet lodged in his arm, which he had received in a +skirmish with the Shânbah. I could only recommend a +surgical operation, and his going to Tripoli. At this +Jabour was alarmed, and asked "What would the Turks +do to the young man?" begging of me medicine. I +offered to take him under my protection, but it was of +no avail. The amiable Sheikh was as friendly as +ever. I asked him to write a letter to England. +Jabour replied justly, "You are my letter; I have +written on you. You can tell your Sultan and people +the news of us all." "Don't be afraid to return, there +are no banditti in that route. The Shânbah are in the +west," he added. I promised, if ever returning to Ghat, +I would bring him a sword with his name engraven upon +it. He said, "I know you will, Yâkob." I am tempted +to think Jabour is the only gentleman amongst the +Touaricks. Another of Hateetah's cousins came to beg, +but went away empty-handed. This evening visited +Bel-Kasem in the expectation of seeing Khanouhen. The +prince saluted me very friendly, and asked, in a sarcastic +tone, "How is the English Consul (Hateetah)?" My +appearance then suggested thoughts about Christians. +"What is the name of the terrible warrior who has +killed so many Christians in Algeira?" he demanded.</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"Abd-el-Kader."</p> + +<p>"Yâkob," he continued, "come, let you and me fight, +for it seems Mussulmans and Christians must fight. +Here, I'll lend you a spear,—take that" (giving me a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-98" id="V2-98"></a>[<a href="images/2-98.png">98</a>]</span> +huge iron lance.) I took it, and turning to Bel-Kasem, +said, "What's this cost?" so evading the challenge. +"The price of a camel," shouted Bel-Kasem at the top +of his voice. "Ah!" cried Khanouhen, "right, now sit +down again; men are fools to fight—why cut one +another's throats?" "Yâkob," he went on, "your +Sultan's a woman, does she fight?" There was now a +tremendous knocking at the door. This was two or +three cousins of Hateetah. "D——n that Hateetah," +cried Khanouhen, "Bel-Kasem, turn them away." +Hereupon, Bel-Kasem started up in the most abject style +of obedience, and pushed one of his slaves out of the +room-door into the open court, crying "Bago, bago" (not +at home). There are certain foreign words which get +currency, and supplant all native ones. This "bago" is +neither Touarghee, nor Ghadamsee, nor Arabic, although +used by persons speaking almost exclusively these languages. +Bago is Housa, as before mentioned. Then +the slave called "Bago, bago, bago;" then half-a-dozen +slaves, close to the street-door, called "Bago, bago, +bago." The knocking continued; the "bagos" continued, +the uproar was hideous. Then Bel-Kasem gave his slave +a slap, crying, "Bago, you <i>kelb</i> (dog)." Now the slave +was off again to the other slaves, shouting and yelling +"Bagos," till the "bagos" drowned the knocking and the +clamour without, and the disappointed supper-hunters +retired growling like hungry wolves of the evening. +Bel-Kasem now gave me a hint to fetch the money for +Khanouhen. I was off and back in an instant, very +glad to give the Sheikh the money according to our new +compact. I put it into the hands of Bel-Kasem. "Go +out," said Bel-Kasem, "and see the fine parrots I have<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-99" id="V2-99"></a>[<a href="images/2-99.png">99</a>]</span> +bought." I went out, and in the meanwhile the politic +merchant slipped the money into the hands of the +Prince. When I came back, they both began to ridicule +Hateetah. The Prince said, "Yâkob, place yourself +under the sword of Hateetah, and go out with him and +fight a hundred Shânbah." "Oh, he's an ass," replied +Bel-Kasem. Such was their style of ridicule. Bel-Kasem +is a well-meaning little fellow, but a sort of fool +or jester of the Sheikh's. Khanouhen allows him to +say anything and do anything, but laughs at him all the +time. Bel-Kasem always brings the Sheikh some +pretty present, and Khanouhen throws around him his +powerful arm of protection. The slavish merchant and +faithful sycophant always calls him Sultan, swears by the +Sheikh's beard in his quarrels with the other merchants, +and threatens all his rivals in trade with Khanouhen's +wrath.</p> + +<p>The Sahara has its factions in every group of its society. +It would appear that without faction neither Saharan nor +any other sort of society could exist. Ghadames gives +us its <i>Ben Weleed</i> and <i>Ben Wezeet</i>. Ghat gives us three +great factions in its Republic of Sheikhs. We may thus +classify their politics:—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Monarchical Faction.</span></h4> + +<p>Mohammed Shafou Ben Seed, <i>the Sultan</i> of the Ghat, or Azgher Touaricks.</p> +<p>El-Haj Mohammed Khanouhen Ben Othman, the heir-apparent of the throne.</p> +<p>Marabout El-Haj Ahmed Ben El-Haj, Es-Sadeek, Governor of the town of Ghat.</p> +<p>Ouweek (second-rate Sheikh).</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-100" id="V2-100"></a>[<a href="images/2-100.png">100</a>]</span></p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Aristocratic Faction.</span></h4> + +<p>Mohammed Ben Jabour, Marabout Sheikh.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Democratic Faction.</span></h4> + +<p>Berka Ben Entăshāf, the most aged of the Sheikhs.</p> +<p>The Sheikh of gigantic stature<a name="FNa_2-11" id="FNa_2-11"></a><a href="#FoN_2-11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a>.</p> +<p>Hateetah Ben Khouden, the "<i>friend</i>" of the English.</p> +<p> </p> + +<p>I found the strongest demonstrations of rivalry, and +the bitterest feelings of faction, in the conduct of these +several princes of The Desert, who are the personages +of influence and authority amongst the Ghat Touaricks. +In the monarchical class the Governor of the town is +allied to the Sultan by marriage, though Khanouhen has +no family by the Governor's sister. Shafou, the venerable +Sultan, is of such gentle unassuming manners that he +exercises no political influence over the wild sons of The +Desert. Khanouhen embodies the Sultan, and is the +man of eloquence, of action, and intrepidity in the +national councils. He is feared by all (Jabour, perhaps, +excepted), but, nevertheless, is not tyrannical in his +administration of affairs. Jabour, the Marabout, is +a wise, upright, and amiable prince. His influence +extends beyond the Ghat Touaricks. Jabour told me +himself, he had several people subject to his authority, +extending as far as Timbuctoo. To these, the Prince +promised to commit me in case I determined to make +a journey to Timbuctoo. Like Khanouhen, Jabour +has two wives; one resides in Ghat, where the +Sheikh has a <i>town-house</i>, and the other in the country<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-101" id="V2-101"></a>[<a href="images/2-101.png">101</a>]</span> +districts. He has, besides, four or five sons. I saw one +of them, who was as much of an aristocrat as his father. +The merchants assured me that Jabour's influence, more +especially as he is a marabout, although he is no demagogue +priest of the <i>Higgins' calibre</i>, is unbounded. +"With a slave of Jabour," they declared, "you may go +to Timbuctoo, and all parts of Sahara." The Sheikh +himself does not visit the neighbouring countries. This +is not the custom of the Touaricks, the people being +opposed to the Sheikhs leaving their districts; but they +send their slaves or relations continually about. Berka, +the head of the democratic faction, is too old to exercise +power, he has only strength enough to get about. +The aged Prince paid me two visits, and was as gentle +as gentleness could be. His family contains some +powerful and intrepid chiefs, <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'amonst'">amongst</ins> the rest the Giant, +the Goliath of the Ghat Touaricks. But, speaking of +giants, <i>Bassa</i>, Sultan of the <i>Haghar</i> Touaricks, is the +real Giant of The Desert. Some of the people report +this Giant Desert Prince to have six fingers on each +hand, and to be several heads taller than he of Ghat. +His spear, they describe, in the true spirit of the marvellous, +to be, "higher than the tallest palm." I may +help their imagination, "And the staff of his spear is +like a weaver's beam, and his spear's head weighs six +hundred shekels of iron," or is like—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">"The mast</span> +<span class="i0">Of some great admiral."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>Were I to adopt our present fanciful theories of accounting +for the origin and migration of nations, I should<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-102" id="V2-102"></a>[<a href="images/2-102.png">102</a>]</span> +here have a fine field before me, and the Touarghee giants +of The Sahara would become, by the transmuting fancy +of our antiquarian theologians, the veritable Philistines +of Gath and Ekron. For many of the Berber tribes, +amongst whom the Touaricks are classed, especially the +<i>Shelouh</i> of Morocco, relate traditionally that their fathers +came from the land of the Philistines, and that they +themselves are Philistines. What then is easier than to +find in the name of <i>Ghat</i> the <i>Gath</i> of the Philistines? But +unfortunately, <i>Azgher</i> is the Touarick name of themselves +and their country. Still the name of <i>Ghat</i> must have +its origin. As before noticed, the original signification +of the term <i>Ghat</i> has been traced to mean "<i>Sun</i>" or +"God," in the ancient Libyo-Egyptian language. I am +not competent to give an opinion on the subject. One +of the Latin writers makes the aboriginal people of +North Africa to have been Medes. The probability is +they were Syrians of some class. From the coast they +would naturally pass or migrate to The Sahara.</p> + +<p>Hateetah is an extremely pacific man in his conduct, and +greatly liked for his peace-making disposition; but he is +only a second-rate Sheikh, and has no political influence +over Touarick affairs, beyond what the chief of his family +enjoys. He has several brothers and cousins, all +esteemed Sheikhs, but with little or no power.</p> + +<p>The government of the Touaricks is an assemblage of +Chieftains, the people supporting their respective leaders, +the heads of their clans in the feudal style, and all these +controlled by a Sultan or Sheikh-Kebir. The number of +Sheikhs, when the lesser, or second and third-rate, +Sheikhs are included, is very considerable, and makes<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-103" id="V2-103"></a>[<a href="images/2-103.png">103</a>]</span> +the country, as the Governor says, "a country of +Sheikhs." In their various districts, each greater Sheikh +exercises a sovereign, if not independent authority. In +any national emergency, they all willingly unite for the +common defence and protection, as now, when they are +collecting their forces, in a common effort to extirpate the +Shanbâh banditti. The people, however, enjoy complete +liberty. The Touaricks, though a nation of chiefs and +princes, are in every sense and view a nation of freemen, +and have none of those odious and effeminate vices +which so darkly stain the Mahometans of the North +Coast, or the Negro countries of Negroland. Every man +is a tower of strength for himself, and his desert hut or +tent, situate in vast solitudes, is his own inviolable home +of freedom!</p> + +<p>According to Haj Ahmed, the Touaricks of Ghat +muster fifteen thousand warriors. Let them be ten +thousand, this would give an entire population, including +women, old men, and children, and slaves of both sexes, +of about sixty thousand souls. These Touaricks possess +a good number of slaves, but of the male sex to look +after their camels. Every able-bodied Touarick is a +warrior, and is equipped with a dagger, suspended under +the left arm by a broad leather ring attached to the +scabbard, and going round the wrist, and a Touarick of +adult age is never seen without this dangerous weapon; a +straight broad-sword is slung on his back, and he carries +a spear or lance in his right hand. Most of the spears +have wooden shafts, but others are all metal, and mostly +iron. Some are of fine and elegant workmanship, inlaid +with brass, and of the value of a good maharee, or +thirty dollars. They have staves also, which they use as<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-104" id="V2-104"></a>[<a href="images/2-104.png">104</a>]</span> +walking-sticks, or weapons of war, as it may be<a name="FNa_2-12" id="FNa_2-12"></a><a href="#FoN_2-12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>. These +are their weapons of warfare. The matchlock they +despise. "What can the enemy do with the gun against +the sword?" the Targhee warriors ask contemptuously. +They, indeed, use the sword, their grand weapon, as the +English soldier the bayonet. Their superior tactic is to +surprise the enemy, especially in the night, when the +Genii help them, and hack him to pieces. The spear is +used mostly to wound and disable the camel. Their +manner of disposing of the booty, is characteristic. +"What are we to do with these <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'men'">women</ins> and children?" +they asked me, "when we have exterminated the Shânbah +men." Without waiting for a reply they said:—"Oh, +we'll send them to the Turks and sell them." They +have the example of the Turks themselves, who, on the +destruction of the Arab men in the mountains, collected +the women and children together, and sent the best of +them to Constantinople to be sold, in defiance of the +express law of the Koran.</p> + +<p>The maharee cannot be overlooked; this remarkable +camel, which is like the greyhound amongst dogs for +swiftness and agility, and even shape, they train for war +and riding like the horse. They do not rear the ordinary +variety of camel found in North Africa and on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-105" id="V2-105"></a>[<a href="images/2-105.png">105</a>]</span> +Coast. ‮مَه٘رِي‬ or ‮مَه٘رِ‬, are the two manners in which +I have seen the Moorish talebs write this word in +Arabic. An Arab philologist says, the term Maharee is +derived from the name of the Arabian province of +Mahra, on the south-east coast, adjoining Oman, whence +this fine species of camel is supposed originally to have +been brought into The Desert. The Touaricks, of course, +have very curious legends about their peculiar camel. +We have, however, the Arabic ‮مهر‬, "to be diligent," +"acute-minded," and the term ‮مهاراة‬, "flying away," +from which ‮مهري‬ may probably be derived. At least +there is no apparent objection to such derivation. The +Hebrew cognate dialect has the word also. ‮מהר‬ signifies +"to hasten," "to be quick;" but I cannot assert positively +it has any relation with this derivation. In the books +written on Western Barbary, we find the terms <i>heirée</i> +and <i>erragnol</i> to denote the "fleet" or "swift-footed +camel," the former of which is apparently a corruption +of mahry or maharee. It is said that camels are +called by names derived from the Arabic numerals, as +<i>tesaee</i>, "ten," (‮تسعي‬), and <i>sebaee</i>, "seven," (‮سبعي‬) +according as they perform a journey of <i>ten</i> days, or <i>seven</i> +days, in <i>one</i>; but I never heard of this distinction in +any part of The Desert. It is pretended that the +mahry cannot live on the Coast of Africa on account of +the cold. This has not been sufficiently tried, for Haj +Ibrahim kept one at Tripoli, which thrived very well, and +was in good condition. It is, however, a very chilly +animal, and seems to feel the cold as much as the +Touarghee himself. In its healthy state it is full of fire +and energy, and always assumes the mastery over the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-106" id="V2-106"></a>[<a href="images/2-106.png">106</a>]</span> +camels of the Coast, biting them, and trying to prevent +them from eating with it in circle like other camels. +Mounted on his mahry, dressed out fantastically in various +and many-coloured harness, (the small saddle being +fixed on the withers, and the rider's legs on the neck of +the animal,) with his sword slung on his back, dagger +under the left arm, and lance in the right hand, the +Touarghee warrior sallies forth to war, daring everything, +and fearing nothing but God and the Demons. In the +year '44 they made an inroad upon the sandy wastes of +the Shânbah bandits; days and months they pursued +the brigand tribe over the trackless regions of sand; and +during this expedition they neither tasted food, nor +drank a drop of water, for seven days!—still keeping +up a running fight, pursuing and butchering the Shânbah, +who all disappeared at last, concealed under heaps of +sand. This statement, which shows the extraordinary +power of endurance—the moral and physical temperance +in the Touaricks, I had from the Governor of Ghat himself, +and which coming from him deserves credit. But +the Touaricks do not eat every day though they may +have food in the house. They eat generally every other +day. And this amply suffices them when merely reclining +in their tents, or lounging in the Souk. Habit is +everything; we might all live on one meal a day if we +could accustom ourselves to it. The people pretend +that, though the Shânbah can count the grains of their +desert region of sand, and know every form of the sand-mountains +as well by night as by day, the Touaricks had +nevertheless the advantage over them, pursuing them +better by night than by day, because the Genii were +their guides; and many Shânbah, who had hid them<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-107" id="V2-107"></a>[<a href="images/2-107.png">107</a>]</span>selves +under the sand, were unburied by the Genii, and +slain by the Touaricks.</p> + +<p>I have given a case of Touarghee justice. During +the Ghat Souk, all the Sheikhs assemble in the great +square, the Shelly, for the arrangement of disputes; but +it is mere form, and is more for gossiping and quizzing +one another, the Touarick being fond of a good joke. +The principal Sheikh present mounts a stone-bench, and +sits down in a reclining posture, striking his spear into +the ground, which stands erect before him, as if awaiting +his orders. The very first thing a Touarghee does when +he stops and sits down, is to strike his spear into the +ground or sand. When my <i>friend</i> Ouweek was napping +near me at the well of Tadoghseen, his spear was struck +into the sand close by his head. So it is said, "And, +behold, Saul lay sleeping within the trench, and his +spear stuck in the ground at his bolster." (1 Samuel, +chap. xxvi. ver 7.) The Sheikh of highest rank now +seated, the Sheikhs next in dignity take their seats +around him, at a short distance off, in the form of a semicircle, +these generally squatting on the ground. Sometimes +the principal Sheikh himself squats on the ground. +The cases of dispute are then brought forward, if any. +The infliction of punishment is by fines. There is nothing +in the shape of a prison,—this delectable institution +being the work and discovery of civilization. Our +Irishman might indeed, without a bull, with his back to +The Desert, and his face to the civilized communities of +the Coast, exclaim, on sight of the first prison and +gibbet, "Thank God, I am out of the land of Barbarians, +and have reached the land of Civilization!" Of fines, I +heard of no other case than that of the Sultan fining<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-108" id="V2-108"></a>[<a href="images/2-108.png">108</a>]</span> +two strangers a couple of dollars, whilst resident in +Ghat.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill2-04.jpg"><img src="images/ill2-04_th.jpg" alt="Touaricks seated in the Shelly" title="Touaricks seated in the Shelly" /></a></p> + +<p>In some parts of the Shelly there are ranges of +benches of two and three flights. It is an imposing sight, +to pass through the square late in the afternoon, just +before they leave, and see all the Touaricks mounted +on these benches. Row upon row, range upon range, +they sit, closely jammed together, as thick as Milton's +spirits in Pandemonium, and not unlike them, with their +dark and concealed countenances, so mysteriously muffled +up with the dread litham, having before them ranges of +spears, parallel to themselves, a bright forest hedge of +pines, awaiting their orders for war or warlike pomp. I +have frequently passed this forest range of lances, and +looked up fearfully to the dark enigmatical figures or +shapes of human beings, reclining in the most profound +death-like silence, not exchanging a word with one another. +A most trivial call of attention, a rustling or<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-109" id="V2-109"></a>[<a href="images/2-109.png">109</a>]</span> +breath of an accident of novelty, nevertheless, is enough to +put instant action and fire into these ranged masses of ice-congealed +or stone statue-like warriors, who will then +rush down upon the attractive object headlong, one falling +over the other, until their childish curiosity being satisfied, +the wild tumult subsides, and they themselves sink into +their wonted blank inanity. But it is a fact, they will sit +motionless thus for hours and hours, and not condescend +to speak to their best friend amongst the merchants. +This is their idea of dignity and superior rank over their +fellows. It would appear, from the account of the +Sultan of Bornou, that he, also, never condescends to +speak when he receives a foreign envoy. "Slowness of +motion," in Barbary, and I imagine in The East, is also +considered a mark of dignity. A full-blown fashionable +Moor always walks extremely slow. The Touarick usually +rises up slowly, and deliberately walks out of the house +in the same way, but otherwise he continues a fair pace. +What is curious, a Touarick never speaks and salutes +when he leaves you; his compliments and inquiries of +health, are all on his entrance into your house.</p> + +<p>It now seems pretty well agreed upon by all parties +who converse about my affairs, that I should return and +make greater preparations, and bring with me two or +three others, fellow-travellers, so as to render an expedition +of this sort more useful and respectable. But the +disadvantage always is, if it get abroad that such a +mission is coming, laden with presents, money and provisions, +the danger is tenfold augmented, whilst an +indigent person like myself is in comparative security. +A single person has also his own advantages over a +mission of two or three, or more. He is his own master<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-110" id="V2-110"></a>[<a href="images/2-110.png">110</a>]</span> +he is responsible alone for himself. Who knows, but +what something disastrous had happened if I had had +with me some hot-headed companion? A man will +lose his life any time in The Desert in five minutes if he +cannot keep his temper. He may occasionally assume +airs of being angry for policy's sake, and check the +insolence of some low fellow, and with other advantages. +But the point is, to be cool in danger and +embarrassments, which, if a man cannot be, let him go +into The Great Desert at his peril. It was for the same +reason I would not bring with me an European servant +from Tripoli, whose fluency in Arabic might have been +attended with the greatest danger to us both instead of +assistance. Said is pestered with questions about me or +my affairs; but at times Said is stupid enough, and +people get tired of asking him questions. I must mention, +however, one thing to his credit and to his cunning +sagacity; although a thousand times questioned, whether +he himself were a slave, and how he came with me, he +never let out that he was a runaway slave from Tunis, +not even to his dearest companions of travel. Generally +when asked a question of our affairs, he says, <i>Ma-Nârafsh</i>, +"I don't know," and this he does as much from his +indolence in not wishing to talk as from policy. Here I +shall take the liberty of stating the several objections to +my proceeding this year to Soudan:—</p> + +<p>1st. My health is beginning to sink under pressure of +the climate, as well as under various vexations and +annoyances. Amongst the latter, I have received nothing +which I wrote for to Tripoli, to persons whom I considered +friends of the mission, one thing excepted, and +certainly not the least thing, the money. (And I embrace<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-111" id="V2-111"></a>[<a href="images/2-111.png">111</a>]</span> +the opportunity of thanking gratefully Signor Francovich, +Austrian merchant of Tripoli, for letting me have money +whenever I asked him, promptly and immediately, and +to any amount which I drew for).</p> + +<p>2nd. Amongst the things written for to Tripoli, and +which did not arrive, were medicine, and some common +instruments of observation. The medicine was packed +up by Dr. Dickson, but neglected to be sent until the +caravan had left Ghadames. The instruments, which +could easily have been procured in Tripoli, were of the +greatest consequence, in making a more extended tour +intelligible.</p> + +<p>3rd. Kanou, being reported by all the merchants as +"a country of fever," it would have been exceedingly +imprudent for me to have gone further without a good +stock of medicines. We have no right to plunge ourselves +into the flood of the Niger, and then accuse the +hand of Providence for not saving us from a watery +grave. One might have escaped the fever, as one might +have been picked up by the swimming of a black man; +but such a "might" belongs to accident, not the planning +and arranging of legitimate expectation.</p> + +<p>I shall not trouble the reader with ten or more reasons, +all having more or less of weight, which I have recorded +in my journal, but which are more curious than sensible. +I mention, that, on my departure from Ghat, I wrote to +the Sultan of Aheer, by the advice of my best friends, +informing him of my intention to visit him at some +future period. It is a mistake that, the taking of these +Saharan princes unawares; they consider it infinitely +more friendly to be written to beforehand. A stranger, +and especially a Christian, coming down upon them<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-112" id="V2-112"></a>[<a href="images/2-112.png">112</a>]</span> +unexpectedly, excites suspicion which may never be afterwards +removed. The Touarick Princes of Aheer are +considered the only difficulty, so far as governments are +concerned, in the rest of the route. The Fullan Princes +of Soudan are represented as eminently friendly to every +body, every stranger of whatever clime or religion. +However, I do not pretend to know what effect the +Niger expedition may have produced on the Fullans, +with respect to Englishmen.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><i>7th.</i>—Stayed at home all the day. The <i>fœx populi</i> +is a great worry to me. They have no encouragement +from the Sheikhs, but are not less the cause of my +shutting myself up at home. Evening, when the streets +were clear, visited Haj Ibrahim. He has purchased the +feathers of a splendid Soudan ostrich for five dollars, +which in Tripoli he will sell for ten. The bird is +skinned and the feathers remain unplucked. The <i>quæstio +vexata</i>, as to who is Haj Ibrahim's "friend," <i>sahab</i> +(‮صاحب‬), to whom he should pay his tribute-present, +for visiting the Souk, is at length decided in favour of +Berka. The old gentleman produced witnesses that all +Jerbini belonged to him, or are under his protection, and +as Haj Ibrahim is a native of Jerbah, he claimed the +rich merchant. The several Sheikhs have the several +merchants under their protection. Shafou has those of +Tunis, Jabour those of Tripoli, under their respective +protection, and so of the rest. The merchants pay for +their protection from ten to twenty dollars, according to +their means. Frequently a group of traders do not pay +more than a single individual; some get off with paying +only a dollar. These demands on the merchants are<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-113" id="V2-113"></a>[<a href="images/2-113.png">113</a>]</span> +certainly very moderate, and the Touaricks scarcely +deserve the epithets of <i>exigeant</i> and extortionate which +are so freely applied to them by the merchants. Haj +Ibrahim, who brings some thousand dollars' worth of +goods to this part, pays only the paltry sum of some +twenty or thirty dollars at the most. In fact, here is +free-trade with a vengeance, existing long before it has +been attempted to carry it out, with such tremendous +consequences, as in Great Britain. France and the +Zollverein must send agents to the Souk of Ghat, say +half a dozen University students each, to study free-trade +principles from the barbarians of The Desert. +Indeed Touaricks carry out their system beautifully and +like gentlemen, and the Aheer merchants pay nothing in +Ghat, and the Ghat merchants pay nothing in Aheer, +for the privileges of commerce, in the way of customs' +dues. The merchants and Arabs of Derge pay nothing +whatever, a privilege of ancient date granted to this +class of Tripoline merchants. But the Souk flourishes +with its free-trade mart, and excites the jealousies of the +merchants of Mourzuk, and their masters the Turks, +because some of the merchants pass from here direct to +Algeria and Tunis, not touching the Tripoline territory, +and in this way the Turks lose their much-coveted +<i>gomerick</i>, or customs' duty. I am happy to record the +present instance of these extortioners being overreached, +or rather, vanquished by an honourable system of trade. +Certainly, were it not for the high duties levied on merchandize +at Mourzuk and Ghadames, many of the merchants +of this Souk would visit those cities, and the +Turks could not fail to benefit by this extra rendezvous +of merchants. Haj Ibrahim does not think the whole of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-114" id="V2-114"></a>[<a href="images/2-114.png">114</a>]</span> +what all the Sheikhs together collect as presents, at the +annual Ghat Souk, to be more than 250 or 300 dollars. +In case Great Britain should think it worth while to +bribe or buy the services of the Touaricks of The Desert, +to intercept the slave-caravans, and so discourage the +traffic, it certainly could be done for some 500 dollars +per annum, or for very little more, if it were a question +of money only.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-10" id="FoN_2-10"></a><a href="#FNa_2-10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> The merchants call these loaves of French beet-root sugar, +<i>Ras</i>, <i>i. e.</i>, "head."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-11" id="FoN_2-11"></a><a href="#FNa_2-11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Having always called him the <i>Giant</i> in my notes, I neglected +to get his name.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-12" id="FoN_2-12"></a><a href="#FNa_2-12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> The spear is called <i>âlagh</i>, ‮علق‬, the dagger <i>tayloukh</i>, ‮تيلوخ‬, +the sword <i>takoubah</i>, ‮تيكوبة‬, and the stave, with a spear point, +âzallah, ‮عزلّة‬. The old men, like indeed Shafou, frequently +make use of a large stick, instead of a spear, when they walk +about. Usually the Touaricks carry their lances with them, and +all their arms, even in paying the most friendly visits. To strangers +they look infinitely more formidable than they are, or they themselves +pretend to be.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-115" id="V2-115"></a>[<a href="images/2-115.png">115</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX.</h2> + +<h3>CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Commerce of Winter Mart at Ghat.—Visit to Hateetah, and meet +the Sultan.—Means of suppressing Saharan Slave Trade by the +Touaricks.—Hateetah refuses my returning with a Bengazi Caravan.—Bad +Character of Arabs.—Receive a Visit from His +Highness the Sultan; and interesting Conversation with him.—Ghat +Townsmen great Bigots.—Unexpected Meeting with the +Sultan.—My Targhee Friend's opinion of War.—Mode of Baking +Bread.—Country of Touat.—The British Consul is perplexed +at his <i>Master</i> being a Lady.—Vulgar error of Christians +ill-treating Mussulmans in Europe.—People teach the Slaves to +call me Infidel.—Visit to Bel Kasem, and find Khanouhen.—The +free-thinking of this Prince.—Said's apprehensions of +Touaricks.—Hateetah's opinion of stopping Saharan Slave-Dealing.—Shafou +leaves Ghat.—Discussion of Politics with an assemblage +of Chiefs.—Description of the Touarick Tribes and +Nations of The Great Desert.—Description of Aheer and Aghadez.—Leo's +Account of the Targhee Desert.—Daughters of +the Governor Educated.—Touaricks refuse aid from the Turks +against the Shânbah.—A private Slave-Mart.—Ghat comparatively +free from Crime.—Visit from Berka.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> is not my intention to enter into the statistics of +trade, but I mention a few facts. Caravans from Soudan, +including all the large cities, but especially from Kanou, +from Bornou, from the Tibboo country, from Touat, from +Fezzan, from Souf, from Ghadames, and from Tripoli, +Tunis, and the North coast, visited the Ghat Souk of +this winter. The number of merchants, traders, and +camel-drivers was about 500, the slaves imported from +Soudan to Bornou about 1000, and the camels employed +in the caravans about 1050. Provision cara<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-116" id="V2-116"></a>[<a href="images/2-116.png">116</a>]</span>vans +from Fezzan also were constantly coming to Ghat +during the Souk. The main commerce of these +caravans consisted of the staple exports, of slaves, +elephants' teeth, and senna, the united value of which, +at the market this year, was estimated at about 60,000<i>l.</i>, +which value would be doubled, on arriving at the European +markets.</p> + +<p>Next to these grand objects of commerce were ostrich +feathers, skins, and hides in considerable quantities. +Then followed various articles of minor character, but +of Soudanic manufacture, which are brought to the Souk, +viz., wooden spoons, bowls, and other utensils for cooking; +also sandals, wooden combs, leather pillow-cases, +bags, purses, pouches, bottles and skin-bags for water, &c.; +arms, consisting of spears, lances, staves, daggers, straight +broad-swords, leather and dried skin shields. Some +of these weapons are made all of metal; the blades of +the swords are manufactured in Europe and America. +These arms are mostly for the equipment of the Ghat +and Touat Touaricks, and are nearly all manufactured +in Aheer. Provisions are also exported from Soudan +and Aheer to this mart, consisting of semen or liquid +butter; ghusub or drâ; ghafouly<a name="FNa_2-13" id="FNa_2-13"></a><a href="#FoN_2-13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>, sometimes called +Guinea corn; hard cheese from Aheer, which is pounded +before eaten; beef, cut into shreds, and without salt, +dried in the sun and wind; peppers of the most pungent +character, an extremely small quantity sufficing to +season a large dish; a species of shell fruit, called by<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-117" id="V2-117"></a>[<a href="images/2-117.png">117</a>]</span> +the Moors Soudan almonds<a name="FNa_2-14" id="FNa_2-14"></a><a href="#FoN_2-14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>; bakhour, or frankincense; +and ghour nuts and koudah, which are masticated as +tobacco. There is then, finally, the great cotton manufacture, +which clothes half the people of The Desert. +Whole caravans of these cottons arrive together, and +they are even conveyed from Ghat to Timbuctoo, this +extremely roundabout way from Soudan. The colour is +mostly a blue-black, sometimes a lighter blue, and glazed +and shining. But the indigo is ill-prepared, and the +dyeing as badly done, and the consequence is, the +cottons are very begriming in the wearing. The indigo +plant is simply cut, and thrown into a pond of water to +ferment with the articles to be dyed, and after a short +time the cottons are taken out, dried, pressed, and +glazed with gum. It is these dark cottons which the +Touaricks are so passionately fond of. The only live +animals brought over The Desert from Soudan and Aheer +are sheep and parrots.</p> + +<p>The articles of import to the Souk from Europe are +sufficiently well known; they are chiefly silks and +cloth, but of the most ordinary sort, and, of showy +colours, red, yellow, light green. Raw silk and brocades; +beads, glass and composition; small, looking-glasses; +wooden bracelets, fantastically painted; sword-blades; +needles<a name="FNa_2-15" id="FNa_2-15"></a><a href="#FoN_2-15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a>; paper<a name="FNa_2-16" id="FNa_2-16"></a><a href="#FoN_2-16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a>; razors; some spices, cloves, &c.;<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-118" id="V2-118"></a>[<a href="images/2-118.png">118</a>]</span> +attar of roses; carpet-rugs; "Indians," or coarse white +cottons; bornouses and barracans, &c., &c. But it may +be observed, all the European articles introduced into +Central Africa are of the most ordinary description +possible. Barracans or blankets are brought from +various places for sale at Ghat, but mostly from the +Souf and Touat oases, where the women weave them in +great quantities. They are very warm and serviceable +in the winter months, and are even carried to Soudan, +where during the rainy and damp season these woollens +are highly prized for their usefulness, and found greatly +conducive to health. No fire-arms, which I could observe, +are brought for sale here. There is scarcely any gold +trade; a very small quantity is brought here <i>viâ</i> Touat +from Timbuctoo. The money in circulation at the Souk +is nearly all Spanish. The exceptions are two small +Turkish coins, called karoobs, one of the value of about +an English penny, and the other double this. A few +Tunisian piastres pass amongst merchants of the north. +It is not the large pillared-dollar (mudfah) which is in +circulation, but the quarter-dollars of Spain. Five of +these quarter-dollars make up the value of a whole +Spanish dollar, and four are the value of the current or +ideal dollar, called the small dollar. The Soudanese +merchants, who are accustomed to see this money +brought from the western coast, flatly refuse all other +monies but the Spanish. There is not a great quantity<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-119" id="V2-119"></a>[<a href="images/2-119.png">119</a>]</span> +of it here; merchants keep up the supply of this currency +by exporting it from Touat and Morocco. No +gold coins are in circulation, nor any copper. The +Turkish money, excepting the karoobs mentioned, will +not pass here; people detest it as much as they do the +Turks themselves. I once asked an orthodox merchant +how it was, that Mussulmans preferred the money of +infidel Christians to that of the Sultan of the Faithful? +He naïvely replied, "God has taught Christians to make +money, because although used in this world, it is +accursed. Mussulmans touch the abominable thing, but +don't pollute themselves by making it. In the next +world Mussulmans will have all good things and enjoyments +without money; but Christians will have molten +money, like hot running lead, continually pouring down +their throats as their torment for ever."</p> + +<p>There is a very ancient story in circulation (in books) +respecting the peculiar manner of carrying on trade +somewhere in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo. It is +copied by Shaw from former writers on Africa. "At a +certain time of the year," the honest Doctor says, "they +(Western Moors) make this journey in a numerous +caravan, carrying along with them coral and glass beads, +bracelets of horn, knives, scissors, and such like trinkets. +When they arrive at the places appointed, which is on +such a day of the moon, they find in the evening several +different heaps of gold dust lying at a small distance +from each other, against which the Moors place so many +of their trinkets as they judge will be taken in exchange +for them. If the Nigritians, the next morning, approve +of the bargain, they take up the trinkets and leave the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-120" id="V2-120"></a>[<a href="images/2-120.png">120</a>]</span> +gold-dust, or else make some deductions from the latter. +In this manner they transact their exchange without +seeing one another, or without the least instance of dishonesty +or perfidiousness on their part." This curious +instance of Nigritian commerce has certainly been copied +from the following passage in Herodotus, proving the +high antiquity of the ingenious fable:—"It is their +(the Carthaginian's) custom," says the father of history, +"on arriving among them (the people beyond the +columns of Hercules) to unload their vessels, and dispose +their goods along the shore; this done, they again +embark, and make a great smoke from on board. The +natives seeing this, come down immediately to the +shore, and placing a quantity of gold, by way of exchange, +retire. The Carthaginians then land a second +time, and if they think the gold equivalent, they take +it and depart—if not, they again go on board their +vessels. The inhabitants return, and add more gold till +the crews are satisfied. The whole is conducted with +the strictest integrity, for neither will one touch the +gold till they have left an adequate value in merchandize, +nor will the other remove the goods, till the Carthaginians +have taken away the gold." This story, +unhappily for the guileless simplicity of our merchants +here, is too good to be true, like most artless stories of +this sort. I made inquiries of merchants who had lived +nearly all their lifetimes in Timbuctoo, and not far from +the gold country, but they had never heard of this pretty +primitive mode of barter. And yet the story has a real +African or Negro look in it. One cannot positively +assert that something like this might not have existed<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-121" id="V2-121"></a>[<a href="images/2-121.png">121</a>]</span> +amongst the Nigritians and their foreign exchangers of +produce and merchandize. Let us hope, for the honesty +of mankind, that the fable had a genuine origin.</p> + +<p><i>8th.</i>—Called on Hateetah this morning. Still the +Sheikh bothers me about presents for his brothers; he had +also the conscience to ask for another barracan for himself. +I stood out, determined to give nothing to him or his +brothers and cousins. Spent the evening with Haj +Ibrahim. His friend, the Ghadamsee merchant, Ahmed +Ben Kaka, who makes the journey from Tripoli to +Noufee, says he saw the English steamers of the late +Niger expedition, so he must have descended lower than +Noufee. He says they came up to <i>Yetferrej</i>, "amuse +themselves," and look about. He had not heard of their +anti-slavery objects. According to him, "Fever and +sickness prevail more at Kanou than Noufee."</p> + +<p><i>9th.</i>—A fine morning, but cold. Slept little; these fits +of not sleeping come on repeatedly. The Touarghee who +has charge of my camel has brought her from the grazing +districts. On arriving at Ghat, all the merchants send +their camels to graze in these places. The Touarghee asks +for barley or straw whilst the nagah is here. The incident +reminds me of—"Barley also and straw for the horses +and dromedaries brought they unto the place where the +officers were, every man according to his charge." (1st +Book of Kings, chap. iii. 28.) This is the food of +horses and camels to the present day in North Africa; +the barley is principally for the horses, and the straw, +when it is chopped into little pieces, is given to both +horses and camels. The Touaricks show the greatest +antipathy to the Arabs, more especially since the late +murderous attack of the Shânbah on their defenceless<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-122" id="V2-122"></a>[<a href="images/2-122.png">122</a>]</span> +countrymen. Some of the Touaricks go so far as to say, +"Mahomet was not an Arab." My Touarghee friend +Omer quarrelled violently with two Souf Arabs, who +were also visiting me. I told them it was indecent to +quarrel in the house of a stranger whom they were +together visiting, and they made it up, shaking hands.</p> + +<p><i>10th.</i>—Visited a patient, but had some difficulty in +persuading him to take my nostrums. Afterwards called +on Hateetah, and, to my agreeable surprise, found there +the Sultan. I did not at first recognize His Highness, +the <i>litham</i> being entirely removed from his face<a name="FNa_2-17" id="FNa_2-17"></a><a href="#FoN_2-17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a>. I +was vexed at my awkwardness, but the good-natured +Sheikhs, several of whom were present, readily excused +me. His Highness and another Sheikh were eating a sort +of <i>bazeen</i> or pudding, with curd milk, out of a large +wooden bowl. Each had a spoon with which they +scooped up the pudding one after another. I have sometimes +seen two persons eating from a dish and having +but one spoon, which they used alternately, one fellow +watching anxiously the other with greediness, and +measuring with a hungry eye the size of his friend's +spoonfuls. It is an advance on the Arabs, this +use of spoons, and I always took care to praise the +Touaricks for their use of spoons. In the open country, +when a Touarghee has finished his meal he drives the +handle into the sand to keep the lower part dry. These +spoons are all made in Soudan, and are extremely neat, +the shaft of the spoon being very much bent, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-123" id="V2-123"></a>[<a href="images/2-123.png">123</a>]</span> +bottom very large and deepened in. His Highness now +told me he should send a present to the Queen, and +asked me if I would take a maharee. This I declined, +on account of the expenses of bringing such an animal +to England on my own responsibility. Hateetah said, +"Why how foolish, when you get to Mourzuk the Consul +will give you plenty of money." I told him I did not +know the Consul there, and must not trust to any Consuls +for such matters. None of the Sheikhs could understand +this objection. On getting up to take leave of +His Highness he asked: "How do you like our country? +What do you think of our merchants? Are the people +civil to you? Shall you again return? How old are +you? Why do you travel so far? Will it not shorten +your life? Will not your Sultan give you a great deal of +money for coming so far?" &c. Hateetah now told me +to sit down again. All were reclining on mats, and no +particular attention was paid to the Sultan. A merchant +present said, "Why don't you buy and sell, the +Souk is open? We wish to see the English come here +to buy senna and elephants' teeth. But the English +don't purchase slaves." I then, half-doubting the propriety +of, and greatly puzzled how to introduce the +subject, tried to make an effort. "How much," asked +I, "do the Touaricks get from the merchants who deal +in slaves? I don't think more than three hundred dollars +a year?" (Several of the Sheikhs nodded assent.) +"Well, now, if the Sultan and the Touaricks would stop +the traffic in slaves here, perhaps the English would give +them three thousand dollars per annum." They all +laughed at this, and the merchant of Ghat took upon himself +to say, for the Sultan and the Sheikhs, "Bring the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-124" id="V2-124"></a>[<a href="images/2-124.png">124</a>]</span> +money." To this I rejoined, "But see now, I can't interfere, +I'm not the English Consul; Hateetah (turning +to him) is the English Consul, let him write for Shafou, +to our Queen and arrange everything. I'll take Shafou's +present and bring back his from our Sultan. This is all +I can do." Hateetah raised himself up at this sally, and +looked very consequentially upon all around, even upon +Shafou, as much as to say, "Don't you hear, The Christian +makes me the English Consul, and am I not the English +Consul?" Was glad to escape from the subject in this +way, determined not to pursue it further, knowing the +bitter hatred it would create in the minds of the merchants +against me, if the conversation got abroad. Still +felt happy in having broached the subject, and attacked +their selfish feelings on the point. Government might +spend a few pounds out of the million per annum, (the +cost of the suppression on the Western Coast,) in buying +the co-operative influence of these Sheikhs, who hold +the <i>keys</i> of The Desert. There is no moral reason for +leaving one part of Africa a prey to this scourge, and +concentrating all our efforts in another region of this +unhappy continent. I left the Sultan and Hateetah in +a good humour, after promising them some tobacco. +Hateetah showed me the leather pillow-case which +Shafou intended to send Her Majesty. Hateetah this +morning seemed to have got the Sultan's ear, but as +soon as the old gentleman returns to Khanouhen, all the +English Consul's influence will evaporate in smoke.</p> + +<p><i>11th.</i>—Called upon the Governor and met there Haj +Abdullah of Bengazi. Persuaded him to wait till to-morrow +and take me with him to Mourzuk. Then called +on Hateetah, who would not consent to this. He says,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-125" id="V2-125"></a>[<a href="images/2-125.png">125</a>]</span> +"I must not go this way with a couple of people through +The Desert. I must go either with him or his brother +in the course of a few days, carrying the presents of +Shafou and a letter for the Queen." Agreed to this, it +being a matter of indifference whether I stopped a few +days longer or not, after waiting so long and to such +little purpose. Was annoyed at my Soudan journey +being cut off in the middle, and sometimes thought I +would still risk it, or "go the whole hog." Perseverance +overcomes obstacles deemed by men impossibilities. +Hateetah evidently feels his importance, and besides +thinks he shall get a little more by my delay. He is +right, for Her Majesty's subjects don't ask for his protection +every day. The Governor pretends the Shânbah +muster 10,000! This ignorance must be voluntary, or +the assertion is made to render the approaching victory +of the Touaricks more terrible to my conception. An +Arab of Tripoli came here a few days ago and personified +himself as Abdullah, who was going to Bengazi, +asking me for an advance of money. Met him this +morning and accused him of his impudent imposture, +threatening to get him bastinadoed by the Pasha. The +Arabs are without question the worst class of people +who visit this mart of commerce. What they don't do +as brigands they attempt by fraud. Shaw tells us that, +in his time, they lay in ambush in the morning to attack +the strangers whom they had hospitably entertained the +previous evening. Some of them still most richly deserve +this character. The Touaricks are so alarmed at the +cold that there is no prospect of their marching out +against the Shânbah for weeks yet. Several Touarghee +camel-drivers will wait for the summer caravan before<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-126" id="V2-126"></a>[<a href="images/2-126.png">126</a>]</span> +they undertake the journey to Aheer, on which route +the cold is often severe at this season.</p> + +<p><i>12th.</i>—Occupied in reading Hebrew. Learnt a few +Touarghee words. Several Touaricks called to beg dates; +"<i>Bago</i>," or "Not at home." Did not go out to-day.</p> + +<p><i>13th.</i>—Called upon Hateetah, who vexed me exceedingly +again by begging. Her Majesty's Consul must +have a regular salary, or Her Majesty's subjects visiting +here will have no peace of their lives. Told him to get +up his camels and prepare for our departure, and then I +would give him another backsheesh.</p> + +<p>Afternoon, a messenger came from His Highness with +the Sultan's dagger in his hand, as guarantee that he +came from His Highness. This is usual in Ghat. Mr. +Duncan has mentioned in his Travels through Dahomy, +how he often received the King's stick as guarantee that +the messenger came from His Majesty. I inquired,</p> + +<p>"What is the matter?"</p> + +<p>He answered, "Shafou wishes a dollar or a holee +(barracan)."</p> + +<p>Not understanding this, I said, "To-morrow I will see."</p> + +<p><i>The Messenger.</i>—"Should I bring Shafou here to your +house?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, yes," I answered, very glad to have a visit from +the Sultan.</p> + +<p>"Now?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, bring the Sultan at once," I continued.</p> + +<p>In a few minutes, before I could guess or imagine what +was this strange business, I heard His Highness knocking +at the door, who, with the messenger, immediately +ascended the terrace. The old gentleman, on entering +my room, refused my most pressing invitation to sit<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-127" id="V2-127"></a>[<a href="images/2-127.png">127</a>]</span> +down on the ottoman, preferring from sheer modesty to +sit upon a skin stretched on the floor. His Highness +sat silent a few minutes, looking very good-natured. As +we were quite alone, I embraced the opportunity of +speaking very plainly to the Sultan. "You see," I +observed, "our people are afraid to come here, not +knowing whether the Touaricks will kill them or not. +Have you not power to prevent the lesser Sheikhs from +stopping Christians in The Desert, and threatening them +with bad language." "No," replied the Sultan, "I +cannot be everywhere. Some of my children think +themselves better than their father. They will talk and +have their own way<a name="FNa_2-18" id="FNa_2-18"></a><a href="#FoN_2-18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>. But now, Yâkob, we have all +agreed to protect you, why do you fear?" "I don't +fear," I added, "but cannot something be done for the +protection of Christians through The Desert." "Here," +said His Highness, "is the question. You return home, +you go to your Sovereign, for I have a secret to tell you." +"What is that?" I demanded anxiously. "Up to now," +said Shafou, mildly and deliberately, "all the world +has paid us tribute. The merchants who come from +the east or west, north or south, all pay us tribute. +But the English do not pay us tribute. How's this? +You must tell your Sultana to pay us tribute, and speak +to her yourself." I promised I would if I had an +opportunity, not attempting to dispute a moment such +pretensions. I simply recollected the Khan of Tartary, +who, after dining himself, went out and ordered his +servant to proclaim to all the monarchs of earth his<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-128" id="V2-128"></a>[<a href="images/2-128.png">128</a>]</span> +permission for them to dine, now that he had finished +his own dinner. I told His Highness, I thought I should +return next year; on which he said, "Well do, I'll conduct +you myself to Aheer." I then introduced the delicate +subject of slavery. I observed, "The Sheikhs of +the Touaricks get very little from the merchants who deal +in slaves. If Your Highness should put an end to this +traffic, you would get more from us English." "Yes, +yes, that's what you said before," interposed the Sultan. +"Try us, then, bring the money; at present, the English +give us nothing." I mentioned to the Sultan that the +Bey of Tunis had abolished the traffic in slaves. "Yes," +said the messenger to the Sultan, "it's true." The conversation +now dropped, and I did not understand what +was to be done further. The messenger made a sign +about the dollar. I had already folded up mechanically +a dollar in a piece of paper before the Sultan came in, +so I put this into the messenger's hand. I certainly +should have given the Sultan a dozen dollars if he had +asked me, but the old gentleman's wishes and wants were +few, and his modesty greater than these. His Highness now +got up, and shaking hands departed as pleased as Punch +with his dollar. I question whether His Highness ever +has any money; Khanouhen is treasurer and everything +else. So I finished with the good-natured gentle creature +Shafou, having humbly presented The Sultan of all +the Touaricks of Ghat with one dollar!</p> + +<p>Just after Shafou left, the messenger wished to play +me a trick. He came running back, and said:—"See +this dagger, this belongs to Khanouhen; he says you +must give him half a dollar." I simply replied to the +fellow, "I know nothing about it." I was convinced<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-129" id="V2-129"></a>[<a href="images/2-129.png">129</a>]</span> +Khanouhen would never send such a message. I laughed +however at this fashion of sending about daggers. It +had something in it of the style of presenting a pistol to +a man's breast with the agreeable demand, "Your money +or your life."</p> + +<p>Passing through the gardens, I fell accidentally into +conversation with a gardener. On mentioning, that if +God spared my life, I should go to Soudan next year, he +exclaimed:—</p> + +<p>"What! do you know God?"</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"Yes, and all Christians know God."</p> + +<p><i>The Gardener.</i>—"Why, then, are you an infidel?"</p> + +<p>I repeated, "All Christians pray and know God;" and +left him puzzled out of his wits. Ghat townsmen are +beastly ignorant zealots, and confound Christians with +the Pagan Negroes of Central Africa, whom also they +call "Ensara." Since Negroes worship the "fetish," they +think also we don't know God. The Governor asked the +other day, if the children of Christians learnt to read +and write like his children, the noisy hum of their reading +coming into the room whilst we sat talking. I might +have answered, "Some do," but used more general +phraseology, "Both boys and girls with us learn to read +and write." "My girls learn also," replied the Governor, +with an air of triumph. I was glad to see female education +encouraged in Ghat by the Marabout, as it is also in +Ghadames.</p> + +<p>Touaricks are afraid, and distrust Arabs; and Arabs are +afraid, and distrust Touaricks; and both these are afraid +of, and distrust Turks. There is no mutual confidence +in these various Mahometan people. Nevertheless, +except the Shânbah incursions, everything goes on pretty<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-130" id="V2-130"></a>[<a href="images/2-130.png">130</a>]</span> +quietly, and I hear of no murders, or acts of violence, in +this region of The Sahara. There is certainly no Irish +or Indian Thuggism amongst Saharan barbarians.</p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—The weather during these three days has been +fine, no wind (the horror of our people), and very warm. +Our departure is protracted from day to day. Time +may be money in England, here it is as valueless as the +sand of these deserts. Got up very early, as I sometimes +do, and went to see the Governor. I was alone. +In the distance (it was scarcely daylight), I saw a tall +figure looming, embodying forth. I continued, and it +neared me. This shadowy figure at length became +visibly formed, and expanded itself into the full stature +of Shafou, who was like myself all alone. His Highness +was as surprised to meet me as I was surprised to meet +him at this time of morning. Shafou stopped suddenly, +and then putting his hand to his tobacco pouch, which he +carried on his left arm, and without speaking, gave me +to understand that I had not sent the tobacco which I +had promised him. Indeed, I could not get it from Haj +Ibrahim. I addressed this silent admonition of my forgetfulness +or short-coming, by saying, "Yes, I understand, +I'll send the tobacco." His Highness then slowly +passed on, just raising his hand to salute me at parting, +but without uttering a word. Afterwards, called on +Hateetah, who had heard from the messenger about my +wonderful liberality in giving a dollar to the Sultan, and +was very angry. "Who is Shafou?" he peremptorily +asked. "He is nothing. You have given him a large present, +and me very little. Now, if any body hurts you, +I shall be silent." I took no notice whatever of this +ungracious speech. A son of the Governor paid me a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-131" id="V2-131"></a>[<a href="images/2-131.png">131</a>]</span> +visit on my return, and was very saucy, calling me a +Kafer. I instantly turned him out of the house. Then +came in my young Touarghee friend, which was a positive +relief to me. I said:—"Are you not afraid to go +warring with the Shânbah?" He answered me pathetically, +prospectively submitting himself to the Divine +Decrees:—"If it be the will of God that I go warring +against the Shânbah, and fall and die there, what then? +for go it is inscribed in the Book of Heaven." As to the +justice of the war, like our young soldiers, it never occupied +his thoughts. He merely goes to war because his +master and prince goes to war. What would the Peace +Society say to him?</p> + +<p>People in Ghat have a very primitive way of making +bread. They place a large earthen cylinder, with one of +the ends knocked out, upon the ground, and make it fast +with clay or mud mortar, like "setting a copper." This +always remains as much a fixture as a copper. When +they want to make bread, they fill it full of lighted date-palm +branches, or other fuel. After the flame is extinguished, +and the wood ashes have fallen to the bottom, +the sides of the cylinder are heated red-hot. These sides +are now rubbed round with a green palm-branch, and +made clean. This done, the paste or dough is pulled and +made into small loaves like pancakes, and clapped on +the hot sides, until all the surface is covered, the little +cakes sticking on with great tenacity. The top of the +cylinder is now covered over to retain the heat. In a +few minutes the covering is removed, and the new-baked +bread is pulled or peeled off the sides of the fast-cooling +cylinder. But sometimes there is heat for baking two +batches of bread. Bread is frequently piled up, layer upon<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-132" id="V2-132"></a>[<a href="images/2-132.png">132</a>]</span> +layer, like pancakes, in a bowl, and a strong highly-seasoned +sauce with oil or liquid butter is poured upon it; from +which bowl it is eaten, and called <i>âesh</i>, or "the evening +meal." Sometimes a number of very small pieces of +meat is placed on the pile of sopped bread; but this is +a delicacy or luxury.</p> + +<p><i>15th.</i>—Went to call upon Hateetah, and met in the +way a son of Abd Errahman of Ghadames, who has +just returned from the oases of Touat. He describes +Ain Salah (or Ensalah), to be like the country where the +Governor of Ghat resides, that is to say, sandy and surrounded +with sand heaps, but abundantly supplied with +water, as well as thickly populated. The oases of Touat +have unwalled towns, or scattered hamlets, but the +country is perfectly secure. He gives the inhabitants +a good character; they are a mixture of Moors, Arabs, +Touaricks, Berbers, and Negroes, like nearly all the +oases in Central Sahara, or that portion of The Great +Desert, extending from the oases of Fezzan to the +Saharan towns of Arwan and Mabrouk, on the western-route +line of Timbuctoo. He thinks I might travel in +safety from Touat to Timbuctoo in summer, for during +the dry season the banditti cannot keep the open Desert. +Saw Hateetah, and gave him a dollar, which put him +into a better humour. Although the <i>soi-disant</i> Consul +of the English, and all the Christians who per hazard +visit Ghat, he displayed to-day the greatest ignorance of +the maxims and polity of Christian nations. I thought +it as well, since he assumed to be the Representative of +Her Majesty here in Ghat, just to remind him, (for I +thought I had told him before,) there was a Queen in +England, and that Her Majesty was his master. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-133" id="V2-133"></a>[<a href="images/2-133.png">133</a>]</span> +greatly shocked Her Majesty's Touarghee Consul, and +he asked, "Whether the Queen cut off heads?" I told +Her Majesty's Consul, the servants of Government +hanged murderers. The Touaricks have acquired these +sanguinary notions of cutting off heads, from the reports +of the Turkish and Moorish administration of justice. +Such barbarous practices do not exist amongst these +barbarians. He then demanded, "Should I go to England, +would the English seize me and beat me?" This question +from the English Consul really surprised me, whatever +I might have expected from others, the vulgar error of +Christians ill-using Moslems, being spread in Sahara. +People think, if they were to visit Europe, we should +capture them, beat them, and make them slaves. This +unfavourable opinion of us has descended from the +times of the Crusaders, when European Christians displayed +their zeal for Christianity—notwithstanding +its holy doctrines teach the forgiveness of injuries—by +butchering or enslaving Jews, Mahometans, and +heretics. Thank God, the chivalry of those days is +gone, though worse may yet come. To-day, a mob of +slaves, who idle about in the road to Hateetah, hooted +after me, and one of the biggest came upon me and +pulled hold of my coat. I could not let this pass, the +hooting I don't care about. So I fetched some people to +have the biggest fellow taken to Jabour. This we did +to frighten them, for after one of my friends gave him a +crack over the head, he was let off, promising to do so +no more. The lower Moors and Touaricks, both here +and at Ghadames, teach the slaves to call Christians +kafer, "infidel." The blacksmiths, near Hateetah's house, +mostly salute me as I pass by them, with "There's no<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-134" id="V2-134"></a>[<a href="images/2-134.png">134</a>]</span> +God," &c. Sometimes they are extremely insolent. Any +resistance to this zeal for The Prophet, would be putting +your head into the fire. It would not be quite so bad +if I did not go out so much alone. I ought always to +have a good strong fellow, an Arab or Touarghee, with +me, a sort of physical-force argument against this moral +hooting, which is intelligible everywhere, and more +especially in The Desert. But as I soon leave, I do not +wish to adopt any new measure, which would show want +of confidence in the people.</p> + +<p>Evening visited my little queer friend Bel Kasem. +Found with him as usual his mighty lord, Khanouhen. +The Prince began to ridicule Hateetah and his brothers, +and scold me on the subject of presents:—"Yâkob, if you +give those rascally brothers of Hateetah presents, I shall +have to spear you," clenching hold of his spear. "<i>Kelāb</i>" +(dogs), said his jester, "they'll strip you of everything, +leaving you no bread, nor even a water-skin, to return +to Tripoli." I assured Khanouhen I had not given +Hateetah's brothers anything but a bit of sugar for some +of their children. "Good," said the Prince. Khanouhen +now began in the style of <i>un esprit fort</i>: "Yâkob, you're +a Marabout. Our Marabouts are all rogues, and are +always exciting the people against us and our authority +(as Sultan). Are you such a rogue?" Here was a +glimpse of another contest between the civil and spiritual +power in The Desert. I told the Sheikh I was no priest, +but a taleb. "Ah! good," said the Prince, giving me +his hand. "But when you die, where are you going to? +Are you and I going together on the same camel, or do +you take one route of The Desert and I another, with +different camels?" I replied, "What is the use of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-135" id="V2-135"></a>[<a href="images/2-135.png">135</a>]</span> +such conjectures?" "Right," said the Prince, "don't +you remember (turning to Bel Kasem) that Wahabite +the people had here, and how they buffeted him, about? +Yâkob, (turning to me) I saved a poor devil, a Wahabite, +from being killed by the mob in Ghat, and I'm ready to +save you. What's the good of killing a man for his +religion?" I thanked the Prince for his noble feelings +of tolerance, and left him and his clown to their <i>tête-à-tête</i>. +Khanouhen is one of the few of those strong-minded +and right-thinking men, who see the utter folly +and direful mischief of forging a creed for the consciences +of his fellows. Had he been a Christian prince of the +times of Charles V., he would not, like that celebrated +monarch, have passed all his life in binding the religious +opinions of men in fetters, and then at the end of his +days, disgusted with his work, repented of his folly. +No, from the beginning of his career, Khanouhen would +have proclaimed and defended with his sword the liberty +of the human conscience in matters of religion.</p> + +<p><i>16th.</i>—A warm morning and hazy, but the much-dreaded +wind got up at noon. The departure of all the +ghafalahs is now fixed for the 25th, and ours for 23rd. +The Rais of Ghadames has sent word for all his subjects +to return together; this I'm sure they will not do. It +is extremely difficult to make up a large caravan. The +Soudan caravan is now departing in small detachments +of half a dozen people. Found Said crying to-day. +"What's the matter, Said?" "You are going to Soudan, +the Touaricks will kill you and cut you into bits, and I +shall be again made a slave. I wish to return to Ghadames +with the Ghadamsee ghafalah." I had often +caught Said crying, and I imagine his grief came from<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-136" id="V2-136"></a>[<a href="images/2-136.png">136</a>]</span> +the same source. I now told him positively I was about +to return to Fezzan, and never observed him crying +afterwards. As at Ghadames, Said is here a great man +amongst the lady negresses, and spends all his money in +buying them needles and beads. Hateetah called and +scolded Said for crying, who had not yet dried his tears. +The Sheikh told him the Touaricks were better than the +Turks or Arabs; and I supported Hateetah by reminding +Said of what our friend Essnousee observed, "<i>Targhee +elkoul zain</i>, (all the Touaricks are good fellows)." I now +spoke to Hateetah seriously about devising some means +for stopping the progress of slave-caravans through the +country. He pretended that the profit derived from +the slave-caravans was infinitely greater than it is, +making it some one thousand dollars per annum; he did +not think the Sheikhs would suppress it. "They had +carried it on always, and would for ever," he observed. +"But," he continued, and very justly, "stop it at Constantinople, +or at Tripoli, and then it will be stopped +here." Hateetah is right. This is and must be our +plan, and I am happy to see that Lord Palmerston has +made, during the present year, a most decisive effort +near the Sublime Porte, to get the demand for slaves cut +off at Tripoli and Constantinople, by the closing up of +the slave-markets. Spent the evening with Haj Ibrahim. +The Haj was occupied in making under-garments for the +slaves he has purchased. Moors do strange things. It +is curious to see the richest and most extensively occupied +merchant of the Souk sewing up shirts and chemises for +his slaves.</p> + +<p><i>17th.</i>—Shafou left this morning for the country districts. +The quiet old gentleman has had enough of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-137" id="V2-137"></a>[<a href="images/2-137.png">137</a>]</span> +bustle of the Souk, which still continues. His Highness, +before his departure, arranged for the Queen's letter and +the presents. Called early upon the Governor, and +found him in the house of Khanouhen, where there was +a full assembly of Sheikhs. I was obliged to talk +politics with them, which were translated as the conversation +proceeded, by the Governor himself, to the +Sheikhs. I surprised them by telling them of the great +number of Mussulman troops employed by the French +in Algeira, and how the French Government paid all +the priests of religion, even Mussulmans. They questioned +me about, and I explained to them the existence +of deism in France and Europe. Now and then a +solitary Mussulman deist may be found in North +Africa. But how few have courage enough to resist the +divine mission of The Prophet! Still fewer question the +probability of a Revelation. In general conversation, I +have always despised the system of running down the +Algerian French, whilst travelling in these wilds. It +serves no earthly purpose, but to increase the arrogance +of the Moors and Arabs against Christians of all nations. +Whatever the conduct of the Algerian French, the conquest +may have a salutary influence upon Saharan +fanatics, though it increases the danger of the European +traveller. The Moorish Governments of the coast deserve +much censure. They often foster and fan the +flame of fanaticism against European tourists. Besides, +the conduct of the Maroquines towards the Jews ought +not now to be permitted by the Governments of France +and England. A missionary to the Jews, (himself a +converted Jew,) who visited Tangier with me, could not +help exclaiming, on seeing how badly the native Jews<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-138" id="V2-138"></a>[<a href="images/2-138.png">138</a>]</span> +were treated, "God give the French success in Algeria!" +It is difficult for a philanthropic mind to suppress such +feelings, whatever our national prejudices, and how much +soever we may brand the Razzias as an indelible stigma +on European civilization. It would be better, and certainly +more just, to civilize North Africa by civilizing +the established Moorish Governments of The Coast. But +if The Coast is to fall under European domination, it is +to be hoped England will secure the Bay of Tunis for +shipping, and the Regency of Tripoli, as being the +natural route of Saharan commerce. The rest may be +safely left to France, excepting our old military post of +Tangier, in order to maintain our influence through the +Straits of Gibraltar. The conversation of the Sheikhs +at length turned upon the Turks, and the country of Gog +and Magog—whence they came, whom we all agreed to +abuse as much as possible, since our antipathies were +pretty equal. The Sheikhs then began very naturally +to vaunt of their power in The Sahara, and I may embrace +this opportunity of giving some outline of the +Touarick nations of The Great Desert.</p> + +<p>The Arab and Moorish writers of the middle ages, +as well as the latest Saharan pilgrims, who have travelled +The Desert from the shores of the Atlantic to the banks +of the Nile, have all given us brief notices of the Touarick +nations; but they have sometimes confounded Touaricks +with strictly Berber tribes, and indeed, not without +reason, for apparently the Touarick and Berber tribes +are descended from one original family, or stock of +people. The fairest conclusion is, that they are the +descendants of the ancient Numidian tribes. The +Arabic terms employed here to name the Touaricks are<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-139" id="V2-139"></a>[<a href="images/2-139.png">139</a>]</span> +‮توارق‬ plural and ‮توارقي‬ singular. Vulgarly a Touarick +is called <i>Targhee</i> (‮ترقي‬), by the Touaricks themselves, +as well as by the Moors and Arabs. Indeed, Targhee +is the more correct name, and Touarghee is an enlarged +Arabic form. So Leo Africanus speaks of these +tribes of The Desert as "Targa Popolo."</p> + +<p>The extent of Sahara occupied by the Touaricks is +exceedingly great, embracing many thousands of miles. +The northern line begins at Ghadames, an hour's journey +south of that city. This line extends along the north, +south-west as far as Touat, and south-east as far as the +oases of Fezzan and Ghat. On the western side, proceeding +directly south, we find Touaricks on the whole +line of route as far as Timbuctoo; on the eastern side, +leaving Ghat, and journeying southward, they abound in +the populous districts of Aheer and Asbenouwa, as far as +Damerghou, the first purely Negro kingdom of Negroland. +On the south, they are scattered in villages and +towns, or wandering in tribes, along the north banks of +The Niger. I have not heard of their being located +on the southern banks of the great river of Soudan, nor +do they descend the Niger to the Atlantic, for we hear +nothing of them in Noufee or Rabbah. But they are +scattered higher up through the extensive provinces of +Housa, subjected to the Fullans.</p> + +<p>In The Sahara, comprehended by these immense lines, +they have some large cities and agricultural districts. +The principal of them are Ghat, Aheer, and Aghadez, in +the east, Touat and Timbuctoo, in the west. We have +the three principal cities of Ghat, Aheer, and Aghadez, +besides numerous villages, in Western Sahara, entirely +under the authority of the Touaricks. Everywhere they<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-140" id="V2-140"></a>[<a href="images/2-140.png">140</a>]</span> +inhabit the agricultural districts of the open desert. I +have not heard of Touaricks on the western line of the +Atlantic Ocean. Captain Riley speaks only of wandering +Arabs, almost in a wild state. On the eastern line of +The Desert, they do not extend beyond the western limits +of the oases of Fezzan, and the southern Tibboo countries. +The names of the great sections of the Touaricks, +as far as I have been able to learn, are,—</p> + +<ul><li>1st. The <i>Azghar</i>—‮ازقار‬—of Ghat.</li> +<li>2nd. The <i>Haghar</i>—‮هقار‬—of Touat.</li> +<li>3rd. The <i>Kylouy</i><a name="FNa_2-19" id="FNa_2-19"></a><a href="#FoN_2-19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a>—‮كيلوي‬—of Aheer.</li> +<li>4th. The <i>Sorghou</i>—‮سرقو‬—of Timbuctoo.</li></ul> + +<p>The Sorghou is the Timbuctoo name which is given +to them by Caillié, and probably this is not a distinct +section from that of the Haghar<a name="FNa_2-20" id="FNa_2-20"></a><a href="#FoN_2-20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a>. There are some lofty +ranges of mountains between Ghat and Touat called also +Haghar, the nucleus of these tribes, and whose Sultan is +the Gigantic Bassa. Besides, we have the Touaricks of +Fezzan, a very small section and distinct from those of +Ghat, and who may be considered the pastoral people, +the veritable Arcadians of the oases. All these sections +have their respective Sultans, and the Sultans their +respective subordinate Sheikhs, governing the respective +subdivision of territory and tribes of people. The subdivisions +of Ghat tribes are the following:—Tinilleum, +Aiaum, Dugarab, Sacana, Dugabakar, Auragan, Muasatan, +Ghiseban, Elararan, Filelen, Francanan, Botanetum, +Skinimen, Deradrinan, Mucarahsen, Keltrubran,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-141" id="V2-141"></a>[<a href="images/2-141.png">141</a>]</span> +Keltunii, Chelgenet, Ilemtein<a name="FNa_2-21" id="FNa_2-21"></a><a href="#FoN_2-21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a>. These various sections +of Touaricks, who wander through the vast wilderness of +Sahara, or are located in its oases, may be distinguished +by some general characteristics, agreeing with +and arising from their peculiar location, or habits of +trade and life. The Touaricks of Timbuctoo are the +more faithless and sanguinary in their disposition, and +less addicted to commerce or a regular mode of life. +Those of Ghat represent the Touarghee character in its +most original type, these tribes being a brave and hardy +people, reserved and using few words in speech, of a +noble chivalric disposition, and carrying on some commerce. +Those of Touat, I imagine, are the same style +of people, from what few of them I saw at Ghadames; +but those of Aheer are more effeminate and milder in +their manners, and are a good deal mixed with the +Negro nations of Soudan. The Touaricks of Aheer bear +an excellent character as traders, and companions of +travel, always assisting the stranger first at the well, +before their own camels are watered. They seem, +besides, mostly addicted to the peaceful pursuits of commerce, +if we except their occasionally joining in the +Razzias for slaves. A full third of the traffic of the +South-eastern Sahara is in their hands, or under their +control. I may add a few words upon their country and +chief places, Aheer and Aghadez.</p> + +<p><i>Aheer</i>, or <i>Ahir</i>, ‮اهير‬ and which is often incorrectly +spelt on the maps Aïr, is the name of a town and very<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-142" id="V2-142"></a>[<a href="images/2-142.png">142</a>]</span> +populous district, including within its territory or jurisdiction +the city of Aghadez. Aheer is also called +Azben, and its district Azbenouwa ‮ازبنوة‬—‮ازبن‬ +which appear to have been the more ancient names. +The town of Aheer is also called <i>Asouty</i>, ‮اسوطي‬ on +the maps Asouda, the dentals ‮ط‬ and ‮د‬ being convertible. +These districts are bounded on the north by +Ghat and its tribes; on the east by the Tibboo country +and Bornou, on the west by the Negro, Touarick and +Fullan countries of the north banks of the Niger; and +on the south, by the Housa districts, vulgarly called by +merchants, Soudan. Aheer is forty short days from +Ghat, the Soudanese merchants who visit the Ghat mart +always travelling much more <i>doucement</i> and in jog-trot +style than the Moorish and Arab merchants of the north. +The line of the Aheer stations measures about thirteen +days, from Tidik in the north to Toktouft in the south<a name="FNa_2-22" id="FNa_2-22"></a><a href="#FoN_2-22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a>. +In this portion of the route, and that previous to arriving +at Tidik, there are twenty days of mountains. The Aheer +route also abounds with springs and fine streams, which +gush out from the base of rock-lands of great height, +and some of which form considerable rivers for several +months in the year, on whose banks corn and the senna-plant +are cultivated. Aheer is the Saharan region of +senna, where there are large wadys covered with its +crops. The exportation, especially after a season of rain, +is very great and profitable. Asouty is the principal +town of the Aheer districts, and was formerly the capital +of all the Kylouy Touaricks. No less than a thousand +houses are now seen abandoned and in ruins. Here in +former times all the Soudan trade was carried on and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-143" id="V2-143"></a>[<a href="images/2-143.png">143</a>]</span> +concentrated; its population is still considerable. The +houses are nearly all constructed of hasheesh, or straw +huts, and the city is without walls. Nevertheless, the +people still honour it with the title of <i>Blad es-Sultan</i>, +"City," or "Country of the Sultan," that is, where the +Sultan occasionally resides, answering to our <i>Royal</i> +city.</p> + +<p>Aheer is the rendezvous of the salt caravan of Bilma, +in the Tibboo country, situate, almost in a straight line, +about ten days east, the route to which is over barren +stony ground. A curious story is told of the manner in +which the camel drivers supply themselves with forage +over this treeless, herbless, naked waste. On their way +to Bilma, they leave at certain places or stations a +quantity of forage to supply them on their return; and +it is said, the deposit is sacred, no one daring to touch +it. It is probable, however, that the forage is concealed +in hiding places, as wells are often hidden along some +desert routes. Even in the Tunisian Jereed, the sources +of water are frequently concealed, a skin being placed +over the water with palm branches laid thereupon, and +the top of the well's mouth covered with sand. So that +a hapless traveller may perish of thirst with water under +his feet! Through the hunting districts of South Africa, +amongst the Namaquas, the sources of water are concealed +in a similar manner. However, a short time ago, +the people of Bornou, who were then at war with the +Touaricks of Aheer, discovered the hiding places of the +Touaricks' forage, carried off or destroyed the supplies, +and reduced a large salt-caravan to the greatest extremities; +hundreds of camels perished from hunger. +These salt-caravans are sometimes a thousand and two<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-144" id="V2-144"></a>[<a href="images/2-144.png">144</a>]</span> +thousand strong. The greater part of Housa and the +neighbouring provinces is supplied with salt from +Bilma.</p> + +<p>Aghadez, ‮اقدز‬ is the capital of the Aheer districts. +This is the residence of the Sultan of the Touaricks of +South-eastern Sahara. The present Sultan is called +<i>Mazouwaja</i>, ‮مزواجى‬ who is represented as a friendly +prince. But it was <i>En-Nour</i> ‮النور‬, deputy Sultan of +Aheer, to whom I wrote before leaving Ghat, begging +his protection in the event of my return, to complete +the tour to Soudan. Aghadez is now as large as Tripoli, +or containing from eight to ten thousand inhabitants. +In a past period it was four times as large. A great +number of the people have emigrated to Soudan, where +less labour is required to till the soil, and nature is more +lavish in her productions. Aghadez is a walled city, +but without any particular strength; the houses are but +one story high, built of mud and stone and sun-dried +bricks. Aghadez abounds in provisions of the most +substantial kind, that is, sheep, oxen and grain. The +government is despotic, but the lesser chiefs have great +power in their respective districts, like those of Ghat. +The religion of the people is Mahometan; not a Pagan, +Jew, or Christian, is found within these districts. Trade +is carried on to a great extent, and Moorish merchants +visit Aghadez, proceeding no further towards Soudan. +The most interesting district near Aghadez is that of +<i>Bagzem</i> ‮بقزم‬, (or <i>Magzem</i>, the labials ‮ب‬ and ‮م‬ being +convertible,) consisting of an exceedingly lofty mountain, +requiring a full day's journey for its ascent. This mountain +figures on the map under the ancient name of +Usugala Mons, but for what reason God knows. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-145" id="V2-145"></a>[<a href="images/2-145.png">145</a>]</span> +town is placed a good way towards its loftiest heights, +the most of which heights are both cultivated and inhabited, +and there is abundance of trees, grain, and fruits. +Bagzem is three days' journey from Asouty.</p> + +<p>I shall take the liberty of appending the account +given of Aheer and Aghadez by Leo Africanus:—</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Diserto dove abita Targa Popolo.</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Il terzo diserto incomincia da'confini di Air dal lato +di ponente, e s'estende fino al diserto d'Ighidi verso +Levante; e di verso tramontana confina con li diserti di +Tuat e di Tegorarin e di Mezab; da mezzogiorno, con li +diserti vicini al regno di Agadez. Questo diserto non è +cosi aspro e crudele, como sono i due primieri: e truovavisi +acqua buona, e pozzi profondissimi; massimamente +vicino ad Air, nel quale è un temperato diserto e di +buono aere, dove nascono molte erbe: e più oltre, vicino +di Agadez, si truova assai manna, che è cosa mirable; e +gli abitatori vanno la mattina pertempto a raccorlo, e ve +n'empiono certe zucche; e vendonla cosi fresca nella +città di Agadez; e un fiasco che tien un boccale val due +bajocchi; beesi mescolata con acqua; ed è cosa perfettissima: +la mescolano ancora nelle minestre, e rinfresca +molto: penso che per tale cagione li forestieri rade volte +s'ammalano in Agadez, come in Tombutto, ancorchè vi +sia aere pestifero. Questo diserto s'estende da tramontana +verso mezzogiorno trecento miglia.—<i>Sixth Part</i>, +lvi. <i>chap.</i></p></div> + +<p>It will be observed, that under the name of <i>Targa +Popolo</i>, no mention is made of the Touaricks of Ghat. +Indeed, all the notices of the Renegade Tourist on this<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-146" id="V2-146"></a>[<a href="images/2-146.png">146</a>]</span> +part of Africa, are extremely meagre and unsatisfactory. +As to his divisions of The Sahara into so many +deserts, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, &c., this is all arbitrary and most +unnatural. The story about the abundance of manna +gathered in the districts of Aheer, seems to have been +invented to please the Christian doctors of Rome; at any +rate, nothing of the kind is now seen or known at +Aghadez. But with respect to foreigners who visit +Aheer and Aghadez enjoying good health, I have no +doubt the Renegade is correct, for I have not heard +of either of these places being unhealthy, their +salubrity arising, we may imagine, from the elevation at +which they are placed. The Aheer Saharan region is +emphatically mountainous.</p> + +<p>Afternoon, visited Hateetah, who has made up his +mind to accompany me to Fezzan, of which I'm glad, not +wishing to meet with any more Ouweeks in this neighbourhood. +Was pleased this morning to observe +amongst the children of Haj Ahmed, who were busy +reading passages from the Koran, several girls. This +circumstance raises my opinion of the Governor. No +doubt it is because he is a Marabout that he grants this +privilege to his daughters. The Marabout has no less +than a dozen small children, of all complexions, features, +and hues, from lily white to sooty black. My sweetest +enjoyment in Ghat is to listen to the song of the tiny +singing sparrows hopping about my terrace. My days of +childhood return with their song, when, if I were not +innocent, a little matter made me happy. Sing on you +pretty little things, tune your wild Saharan notes, for +you gladden my sad heart!</p> + +<p><i>18th.</i>—A fine warm sunny day. The departure of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-147" id="V2-147"></a>[<a href="images/2-147.png">147</a>]</span> +the ghafalah is now fixed for the 27th. According to +some accounts, 8000 Touaricks are being mustered, to +march against the Shânbah. The Touaricks evidently +expect the robber tribe to be reinforced from Souf and +the Warklah districts, or the robbers must number +5000 instead of 500. Haj Ibrahim tells me, he has +just read a letter addressed by the Pasha of Tripoli to the +united Sheikhs of Ghat, offering them assistance against +the robber tribe. The Touaricks have politely declined +the proffered aid, feeling strong (and wise) enough to +manage their own battles. Not much troubled with +visitors lately, one now and then. The Touaricks are +leaving Ghat to reinforce the new levies of troops. Soon +the town will be emptied of Touaricks. The Ghadamsee +ghafalah is returning, and a small one to Tripoli <i>viâ</i> +Shaty and Misdah.</p> + +<p>Haj Ibrahim continues to repeat his story about the +people of Ghadames having a great deal of money +hoarded up. I visited him this morning, and found him +surrounded with a group of Soudanese merchants. The +large court-yard of his house was full of bales of unsold +goods, here and there scattered about, and some unpacked, +all in the most business-like disorder. In one +quarter was a cluster of a dozen slaves, waiting to be +bartered for, the poor wretches being huddled up together +in this private mart of human flesh. The Moor +was calm and collected amidst the dirt and noise of +Kanou and Succatou merchants, who with violent +gestures were disputing the progress of the bargain inch +by inch. Here was a great assortment of rubbish, for I +can't call very coarse paper, green baize cloth, glass and +earthen composition beads, bad razors, and a few common<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-148" id="V2-148"></a>[<a href="images/2-148.png">148</a>]</span> +woollens, and some very inferior raw silk, merchandize. +And such rubbish was offered in exchange for a group of +God's creatures, with his divine image stamped upon +them! At length the progress of the bargain came to +what might be called a crisis. The Soudanese merchants +jumped up suddenly, with shouts and curses, as if they +had discovered a perfidious fraud, and rushed to the +door, pulling their miserable slaves after them. I felt +shocked at the sight, and my horror must have been +depicted in my countenance. For Haj Ibrahim, who +well knew I disapproved of this traffic, said to me +angrily, "Why do you come here now?" I got out of +his way as quick as I could, but did not leave the house. +The people of the Moor followed hard after the runaway +merchants, seizing first hold of their slaves, dragging +them back by main force into the court-yard. Then +their owners raised a hideous cry, calling Haj Ibrahim +and his people "thieves," and "robbers," and "cheats," +and "accursed," and many other similar compliments in +the way of slave-dealing. This would make a nice +counter-picture to a sketch of one of those Congressional +squabbles which so frequently take place on the presentation +of Anti-Slavery petitions to the American Congress, +when there is an occasional flourish of the bowie-knife, +and a good deal of expectoration to damp the +ardour of the combatants, fighting over the victims of +Republican Tyranny. After this came a cessation of +every kind of noise, for Haj Ibrahim, disgusted with the +business, (he was a fair-dealing man though a slave-dealer,) +said to Omer, his Arab servant:—"Tell them to +be off, and take their slaves with them." Now interposed +a merchant of Ghat, and a friend of the Sou<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-149" id="V2-149"></a>[<a href="images/2-149.png">149</a>]</span>danese, +who thus <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'upraided'">upbraided</ins> them:—"Fools that you +are! Do you think Haj Ibrahim is a cheat? Haj +Ibrahim gets nothing by you; Haj Ibrahim buys your +slaves, because Haj Ibrahim will not be at the expense of +carrying his goods back again to Tripoli." The merchants +replied, and I dare say with truth:—"You told +us 300, now there are only 200; 20 of this, and only +10; 50 of that, and only 20," &c. This Ghatee was a +broker, and a species of sharper; he had been impudently +imposing on the Housa merchants. But, to cut a +long story short, the bargain was finally arranged. Haj +Ibrahim made these quondam merchants a present of some +almonds and parched peas, "to <i>wet</i> the bargain." The +poor slaves had been dressed up for the sale, and, with other +ornaments, large bright iron hoops had been hammered +round their ancles. It was a tough job to get them off, +and a blacksmith only could do it. Haj Ibrahim called +each new slave to him, and looked at their features, in order +to know them. This he told me he was obliged to do, +to be sure of his own slaves, and prevent quarrels +with other merchants, for the slaves often get mixed +together.</p> + +<p>During Souk there is going on some petty thieving, +mostly done by the Negro slaves and Arab camel-drivers. +They have stolen many little things from me. +It is useless to complain. One must take care of one's +things. But I am informed the Touaricks never steal. +At any rate, large bundles of senna are left out in the +suburbs, night after night, and in the open fields amongst +the sand, and no one touches a leaf of it. This could +neither be done in Tunis, nor in Tripoli. The Touaricks +are beggars, but not thieves; they will also beg hard and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-150" id="V2-150"></a>[<a href="images/2-150.png">150</a>]</span> +with authority. Rarely, however, will a Touarghee take +anything away from you without your knowledge. So, if +Touaricks are poor, they are honest, which is so seldom +the case, poverty exciting as much or more to crime than +exuberant wealth. On the whole, this country must be +considered free from crime. Hungry slaves pilfering +about, can hardly be designated crime. I saw a little +slave to-day, who had just been brought from Aheer; he +was rolling naked on the sand, with some fresh green +blades of wheat before him. These he was devouring, and +this was his food. How can human beings fed this way +be expected to refrain from stealing food when they have +an opportunity? The Touaricks of Aheer, though not +cruel masters, feed their slaves mostly on herbage, which +is picked up <i>en route</i>. At least, so the people tell me.</p> + +<p>Afternoon, the aged Berka paid me a visit. I gave +him his tobacco, or that which I had promised him. +Whenever you promise a person anything in this country, +in reminding you of it, if you forget your promise, he +calls the article his own, and demands it as a right. +Berka can hardly move about, he is so very old a man; +I should say the Sheikh is upwards of a hundred. The +Saharan veteran made no observation in particular. He +replied to my questions about Saharan travelling:—"Don't +fear, the Touaricks will do you no harm. You +can go to Timbuctoo in safety." I was making ghusub +water, and asked him to drink of it. "No," he said, +smiling with benignity, "you must drink ghusub water +with me, not I with you. This is the fashion of us +Touaricks." Ghusub water, is water poured on ghusub +grain after the grain has been par-boiled or otherwise +prepared. A milky substance oozes from the grain, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-151" id="V2-151"></a>[<a href="images/2-151.png">151</a>]</span> +makes a very cooling pleasant beverage. Saharan +merchants prize the ghusub water chiefly for its cooling +quality in summer. A few dates are pounded with the +ghusub to give the drink a sweeter and more unctuous +taste. The aged Sheikh, on taking leave, begged a little +bit of white sugar. "I wish to give it to my little grandson," +he added. I question which was the more childish, +he or his little grandson, so true it is the intellect decays +as it grows, spite of our theories of the immortality +of mind. I have now had visits from all the great +chieftains of the Ghat Touaricks, Shafou, Jabour, Berka, +and Khanouhen. The three former are the heads of the +great divisions of confederated tribes. These centres of +the large tribes and families separately constitute an +oligarchical nobility, by which the destinies of this Saharan +world are governed.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-13" id="FoN_2-13"></a><a href="#FNa_2-13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> <i>Ghafouly</i>—‮قفولي‬—<i>Holcus sorghum</i>, (Linn). Ghafouly grows +higher than a man; the stalk is as thick round as sugar-cane; the +grain is of white colour, and half the size of a dry pea, of a round +flattened shape. It is much coarser eating than maize.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-14" id="FoN_2-14"></a><a href="#FNa_2-14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> <i>Arachis hypogæa</i>, (Linn). This shell fruit has two names in +Housa, <i>goújĕeă</i>, and <i>gaýda</i>. Many of the shells are double; they +are smallish, very soft, and easily broken. The taste of the fruit is +not disagreeable, a good deal like the almond, but more viscid, and +a little insipid.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-15" id="FoN_2-15"></a><a href="#FNa_2-15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Mostly with the mark "<i>porco</i>" on the packets.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-16" id="FoN_2-16"></a><a href="#FNa_2-16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Mostly with the mark "<i>tre lune</i>" on it. I complained to a +merchant that the paper was very coarse, and asked him why he +did not purchase finer paper. He replied, "<i>It's all the same in +Soudan, fine or coarse.</i>" The same answer would be given to every +complaint about the coarseness and bad quality of these imports +into Africa. Fine or coarse cloth, and fine or coarse silk, sell +much the same in Negroland.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-17" id="FoN_2-17"></a><a href="#FNa_2-17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> This is frequently the case. When a Touarghee wears his +<i>litham</i>, and when he pulls it off, he undergoes a complete metamorphosis, +so that strangers cannot recognize the parties in their change +of dress.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-18" id="FoN_2-18"></a><a href="#FNa_2-18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> ‮איש בץניו הישר יעשה‬ Judges xxi. 25. The conduct of the +Sheikhs and their tribes is much like that of the Israelites under +the Judges.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-19" id="FoN_2-19"></a><a href="#FNa_2-19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> Sometimes called, Killiwah.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-20" id="FoN_2-20"></a><a href="#FNa_2-20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> Different Negro tribes call Touaricks by different names.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-21" id="FoN_2-21"></a><a href="#FNa_2-21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> These names are but imperfectly given, and they must be pronounced +in Italian style, being written from the dictation of a +Targhee chief by Mr. Gagliuffi, according to that language. To +these may be added <i>Haioun</i>, a tribe of Marabouts.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-22" id="FoN_2-22"></a><a href="#FNa_2-22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> For the rest of the Stations see the Map.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-152" id="V2-152"></a>[<a href="images/2-152.png">152</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI.</h2> + +<h3>CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Parallels between The Desert and The East.—The Divine Warranty +for carrying on the Slave Trade discussed.—Visit from Aheer +and Soudanese Merchants, and present state of Soudan.—Form +of the Cross on Touarick Arms.—Boy taught to curse The +Christian.—Medina Shereef's opinion on my giving Presents.—A +Negress begs in the name of Ouweek.—Visit to the Governor +and Hateetah.—Streams of Water and Corn-Fields in the Fabled +Region of Saharan Desolation.—Kandarka will recommend me +to his Sultan.—Parallel things between Africa and Asia.—Atkee +turns out a Scamp.—Visit from Berka.—Arabic is the +Language of Heaven.—Khanouhen ridicules Hateetah to his +face.—Hospitality of the Governor towards me, and interesting +Conversations with him.—Moorish reckoning of Time clashes +with mine.—Medina Shereef turns Beggar like the rest.—Meet +The Giant begging at Haj Ibrahim's.—Affecting Case of the +cruelty of one Slave to another, and compared to the Jews of +Morocco.—Chorus Singing of the Slaves.—Mode in which Ostriches +are Hunted.—Arrival of Senna and Ivory from Aheer.—Christians +are not Liars.—Farewell Visit from Jabour.—Quick +Route to Timbuctoo from Ghat.—Kandarka turns Comedian, +and satirizes the Touaricks of Ghat.—Mercantile Transactions +of the Governor.—Want of a strong Government in The +Desert.—Assemblage of the Sheikhs, and preparations for War.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>19th.</i>—<span class="smcap">Did</span> not go out to-day, but amused myself +with noting down in the journal several parallel things +between The Desert and The East, which are mentioned +in The Scriptures.</p> + +<p>"And she said, As the Lord thy God liveth, I have +not a cake, but an handful of meal in a barrel, and a +little oil in a cruse: and, behold, I am gathering two<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-153" id="V2-153"></a>[<a href="images/2-153.png">153</a>]</span> +sticks, that I may go and dress it for me and my son, +that we may eat it, and die." (1 Kings xvii. 12.) We +have in Sahara parallel ideas to all and every part of this +simple and affecting discourse. The widow speaks with +an oath. When anything particular and extraordinary +is to be said or done, the people of Sahara must use an +oath. The meal is the barley-meal of our people; the +oil is used to cook it as we cook our bazeen. The sticks +are gathered from The Desert every day to dress our +food. The blank and absolute resignation of the woman +is the same with every one here, not excepting those of +immoral lives.</p> + +<p>"And lo in her mouth, was an olive-leaf plucked off," +(Gen. viii. 11.) "And Noah began to be a husbandman, +and he planted a vineyard," (Gen. ix. 20.) The olive and +the vine are still the choice fruit-trees in North Africa, +and were the Mussulmans a wine-drinking people, the +country would be covered with vineyards. In the beautiful +parable of Jotham, (Judges ix. 8-15,) the third, +and the three choicest trees of North Africa are separately +mentioned, the olive, the fig-tree, and the vine. +These are the only fruits valued or cultivated by Tripoline +Arabs in their mountains. The jennah or "paradise" +of the Koran is also planted with "palm trees and +vines."</p> + +<p>"And Asahel was as light of foot as a wild roe." +(2 Sam. ii. 18.) In this way Arabs speak of one +another. Every person who is conversant with Eastern +pictures and scenes in Arabic has met with a scrap of +poetry of some sort or other, in which the Arab woos +his mistress, by comparing her loved eyes to the fine +dark full eye of the gazelle. An Arab also, like us<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-154" id="V2-154"></a>[<a href="images/2-154.png">154</a>]</span> +Europeans, calls a cunning fellow "an old fox," and +stupid fellow "a donkey."</p> + +<p>"And it came to pass, in an evening tide, that David +arose from off his bed, and walked upon the roof of the +king's house; and from the roof he saw a woman washing +herself, and the woman was very beautiful to look +upon." (2 Sam. xi. 2.) Everybody now knows, or +ought to know, that the roofs of Barbary and Saharan +houses are flat, where the people walk and enjoy "the +cool of the evening," or "the evening tide" after getting +up from their naps or siestas. Here the women gossip +and the men pray, but the latter are often disturbed in +their devotions by the intruding glimpses of some Desert +beauty. Love-matches and intrigues are equally concerted +here on house-tops. The flat-roofed house-top, as +before observed, is the Ghadamsee woman's entire world; +here she lives, and moves, and has her being.</p> + +<p>"Woe to thee, O land," &c., "And thy princes eat in +the morning." (<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Ecclus'">Eccles</ins>. xi. 16.) The principal meal is +in the evening, and no people of these countries think of +eating a hearty meal "in the morning" like what Europeans +are accustomed to eat in the morning. To eat a +hearty meal in the morning would be an act of downright +gluttony. Here, then, is strikingly brought out +the sense of this passage of the Preacher's wisdom.</p> + +<p>"We will not drink of the waters of the well." +(Numbers xxi. 22.) The Israelites being a numerous +host, were obliged to make this promise, for if all had +drank, they would soon have emptied the wells, and left +the people of the country without water, and their flocks +and cattle to die of thirst. The caravans now returning +to Ghadames are obliged to go in very small numbers,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-155" id="V2-155"></a>[<a href="images/2-155.png">155</a>]</span> +that they may not exhaust the wells. Having many +slaves with them more water is required, which they +cannot in any way dispense with. The Israelites +renewed their promises about the drinking of the water +to other people, through whose country they had to +pass.</p> + +<p>"He saith among the trumpets, Ha, ha!" (Job +xxxix. 25.) It is very odd that the horsemen of +Morocco, when they gallop to the charge, always cry +"Ha, ha!" So the Arabian poet of The Book of Job +puts the wild cry of the rider into the mouth of the +horse whom he rides. This I frequently witnessed on +the parade of Mogador. The wild cavalry of Morocco +is the boldest idea transmitted to us of the ancient +Numidian horse. In Morocco the horse is both the +sacred animal and the bulwark of the empire; for this +reason it is the Emperor prohibits the exportation of +horses. Even the barley, on which the horses are generally +fed, is not allowed to be exported for the same +reasons.</p> + +<p class="figcenter">‮ויאמר ארור כנען עבד עבדים לאחיו‬</p> + +<p>"And he said, Cursed be Canaan; a servant of servants +shall he be to his brethren," (Gen. ix. 25.) This +portion of Scripture will occur naturally enough to the +mind of a biblical reader, who takes up his residence for +some weeks at a slave-mart, and is seeing slaves bought +and sold every day. It is the famous and much abused +text of the slave dealers of the last three centuries, and +is now continually quoted in the pulpits of the United +States parsons, who, like the devil himself, quote +Scripture to support the wickedness of themselves and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-156" id="V2-156"></a>[<a href="images/2-156.png">156</a>]</span> +their slave-holding and man-selling countrymen. The +most approved commentators properly apply the text to +the Canaanites, whom Providence afterwards dispossessed +of their territories in Palestine, and gave them to the +children of Shem, and so the Canaanites became the +slaves of the Shemites for a limited period. But to +prove that it does not refer to the Negroes of North and +Central Africa, I may be allowed to produce the following +reasons:—</p> + +<p>1st. Of all the children of Ham, Canaan only is mentioned.</p> + +<p>2nd. The prophecy was fulfilled in the descendants +of Canaan, and there is no occasion to extend it beyond +the early history of the Jews, when they took possession +of the land of Canaan, and reduced its people to servitude.</p> + +<p>3rd. The descendants of Canaan were all white people, +and the Negroes I need not say are black. But if it be +a question of colour, there are red Indians and black +Indians, who have been from unknown ages the sons of +freedom, and who, when discovered, would not and could +not be reduced to slavery. I guess the Yankees have +not reduced the Indians to slavery, (although, after +robbing them of their hunting-grounds, they have in the +most Christian spirit exterminated many,) on the contrary, +they are equally free men with the Yankees, and +have the same privilege of reducing free men to slavery +with their Republican neighbours. The Black Indians, +following the precept and example of the White Republicans, +have now an immense number of slaves; and in +this case, it is not the more civilized who holds his fellow +man in bondage, but the less civilized, indeed, savages.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-157" id="V2-157"></a>[<a href="images/2-157.png">157</a>]</span> +So the world is improving and progressing in the Western +Hemisphere! The Southern Ocean is peopled with +many tribes as black as Negroes. But to return to the +Canaanites, they at length mixed with the Israelites and +became one people, and the relations of master and slave +were lost in equality.</p> + +<p>4th. Many of the descendants also of Cush were +white people, for he was the father of Nimrod, who +founded Babylon, and became the father of all the +Babylonians. Were the Babylonians Negroes?</p> + +<p>5th. None of the children of Ham, but Canaan, became +servants or rather slaves to the rest of the human +race in any remarkable degree, during the early period +of the Mosaic world. For,</p> + +<p>Cush was the alleged father of the Babylonians and +the Ethiopians, (the people of Upper Egypt,) but neither +of these nations were slaves to conquerors more than +any other people of that period of the world; whilst, on +the other hand, the Babylonians were great conquerors +in their day, and the Ethiopians had princes of their +own even down to the days of Solomon. If now the +Abyssinians are to be considered the descendants of the +Ethiopians, we all know they are not slaves, but like the +Yankee States themselves, slave-dealers and slave-holders. +The Abyssinians, moreover, enjoyed advantages of civilization +when a great portion of Europe was overwhelmed +with barbarism. So much for the Cushites and Ethiopians, +the lineal descendants of the accursed Ham!</p> + +<p>Mizraim was the father of the Egyptians. These +ancient and celebrated people, whose country was the +cradle of civilization, cannot surely be branded as the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-158" id="V2-158"></a>[<a href="images/2-158.png">158</a>]</span> +slaves of the human race! This was also the lineal +descendant of the accursed Ham!</p> + +<p>6th. But even the Canaanites, so far from remaining +slaves, after the alleged curse was fulfilled in them, +recovered from their degradation and rose into consequence, +filling the world with their fame. The children +of Canaan were undoubtedly the founders of Tyre, whose +bold navigators, braving the ocean and the tempest, +scoured and ploughed up the waters of the Mediterranean, +planting colonies everywhere, and founded Carthage! +The Carthaginians, their more renowned sons, passed +the Straits of the columns of Hercules, doubled Cape +Spartel, and, some say, coasted the entire continent of +Africa, returning by the Red Sea. It is monstrous to +call such people slaves, branded by the hereditary curse +of the inebriated patriarch of mankind. In truth, of +all the people of antiquity, the accursed and enslaved +race of Ham were the most free-born, enlightened, and +enterprising! Never was such a perversion of Scripture +interpretation to palliate and bolster up the systems of +wickedness of this and former days! Shall we compare +the Model Republic and the miserable and degraded +nations of Brazils, Spain, and Portugal, the present +enslavers of the alleged posterity of Ham, with the once +mighty Egyptians and Carthaginians?</p> + +<p>7th. But it may be said that Central Africa was +peopled from Cush or Ethiopia, and that this Cush, who +peopled that portion of the Continent, was the son of +Ham. To this I have already replied, that the curse +was pronounced not on Cush, but on Canaan his brother, +and it is arguing in a circle to extend the subject. After<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-159" id="V2-159"></a>[<a href="images/2-159.png">159</a>]</span> +all, we are not sure that Central Africa, and the western +coast, the theatre of the principal trade, was peopled +from Ethiopia. Where is the proof? And besides, +Central Africa, the <i>bonâ fide</i> Negroland, possesses states +and powerful confederacies, whom no power in Europe or +America has yet been able to subjugate to slavery.</p> + +<p>8th. The Africo-European slave-trade is only of extremely +modern date. It is too late to look for the +fulfilment of this prophecy amongst the European transactions +of the last three or four centuries, in this and +any particular reference to Africa. But finally, up to +a late period, slavery was co-extensive with the human +race, in all times, ages, and countries. All classes and +races of men were made slaves alike, without any relation +to Africa and Africans. The Greeks and Romans, if +they made slaves of Africans, did not so enslave them +because they were Africans, for these ancient people +made slaves of all, and even of their own countrymen, +it being a constituent element of their society.</p> + +<p>I have omitted purposely to question the Divine commission +of the Yankee parsons to uphold slavery as the +basis of their Republic. But it is difficult not to question +the right of an incensed father, awakening from a +drunken debauch, to condemn an innocent grandson (for +what we know) to everlasting slavery and degradation.</p> + +<p>With regard to the word <ins class="grk" title="Greek: Doulos">Δοῦλος</ins>, <i>Doulos</i>, used in the +Greek Testament to denote either a slave or a servant, +there can be no doubt of the application of the term to +both these relations of ancient society. The word corresponds +to ‮עבד‬ in the Hebrew, and ‮عبد‬ in the Arabic, both +being the same consonants, which terms are used, according +to their application, to denote both slaves and servants.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-160" id="V2-160"></a>[<a href="images/2-160.png">160</a>]</span> +Slavery existed amongst the Jews as amongst the Greeks +and Romans, in the beginning of the Christian era; so +we have allusions to "the bond and the free," as well as +"the Greeks and the Barbarians," the former phrase +distinguishing slaves and free men, the latter, nations of +arts and science from those of uncivilized or semi-civilized +people. The question is not, then, the meaning of the +term <i>Doulos</i>, or its application to slavery at the period +of the promulgation of the Christian religion; but, whether, +because slavery was not then reprobated by the +teachers of Christianity, it was not therefore a very great +evil. First of all, there are many things of ancient +society not reproved or reprobated by the founders of +Christianity, which are inconvenient to, and inconsistent +with, our moral sense, and which would violate the laws +of modern society. Such are the laws and customs of +usury and polygamy. No man in his senses would +attempt to establish polygamy in modern society, because +it is not prohibited and condemned by the writers of the +New Testament. To argue, therefore, that slavery is congenial +with the spirit of the Christian religion because it is +not condemned by its apostles and evangelists, is an utterly +fallacious system of reasoning. But even supposing the +apostles themselves practised slavery, and received into +their communion slave-holders, men-dealers and men-stealers, +it does not therefore follow that we should +imitate them, and become men-stealers likewise. What, +was good or right for them and their state of society, +may not be good or right for us and our society. The +liberties of mankind require to be guarded in these our +days by the most intense hatred, and the broadest and +clearest denunciations of slavery, in every shape and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-161" id="V2-161"></a>[<a href="images/2-161.png">161</a>]</span> +mode of its developement. But let any people imbibe the +spirit of Christianity, and slavery cannot exist amongst +them; let all nations imbibe the spirit of Christianity, +and slavery would become immediately extinguished +throughout the world.</p> + +<p><i>20th.</i>—A fine morning; the Desert around is fair and +bright, save where the Black Mountains are casting their +mysterious shades. Visited by some Succatou merchants, +amongst whom were several Touaricks of Aheer. The +Housa people and Aheer Touaricks both speak the Housa +language, these Touaricks having abandoned their Berber +dialect so far as I can learn. It is also difficult to distinguish +the one people from the other when they wear +the litham. One is nearly as dark as the other, but +the features of the Touaricks are much more, and often +quite in the style of Europeans. A few of the Aheer +merchants are also, I have observed, tolerably fair. How +different are the airs and consequence of these merchants, +and some of them pure Housa Negroes, from the slaves +which they lead into captivity; they talk, and laugh, +and feel themselves on a level with us, whilst their slaves +are moody and silent, without confidence, and slink away +from observation. Such is the impress of slavery on +men in whose veins runs the same blood as our own. +The Soudanese merchants gave me some account of the +reigning Sultans. Ali is the Sultan of Succatou, and +succeeded the famous Bello, to whom Clapperton was +dispatched in his last mission. Daboo is the Sultan of +Kanou, and Ghareema, Sultan of Kashna, but both subjected +to the Succatou Sultan. Besides these cities, the districts +of Beetschee, Kaferda, Kasada, Sabongharee, Ghouber, +Dell, Yakoba and Noufee, besides other provinces,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-162" id="V2-162"></a>[<a href="images/2-162.png">162</a>]</span> +including a vast extent of territory, are subjected to the +Fullan dynasty of Succatou. But it is extremely difficult +to get correct information from these Soudanese merchants, +though dealing and travelling through all the +Housa and neighbouring countries; as to the names of +the princes, they could not recollect them. There are +also frequent dethronements of the petty princes.</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i>—I do not go out much now, except in the +evening; I grow weary of the place. A young Aheer +Touarick called. I never refuse admittance to Aheer +merchants because they are so well behaved, and apparently +not fanatical. He offered me a straight broad +sword for five small dollars; it is quite new, having the +handle made in the form of a cross and of hard wood, +with a leathern scabbard. The blade was made in +Europe. The Touarick dagger hilts are also made in +the shape of a cross. There is besides a Malta cross +usually cut on the bullocks-hide shields. The cross +appears to be an usual ornament of Soudan and Aheer +arms. It has been thought there is in this device of +arms some vestige of the now extinct Christianity of +North Africa. The subject is curious, but we have no +means to arrive at its solution. My Aheer friend pretended +his sword was worth two slaves in Soudan; this +is an exaggeration. Abdullah, the Souf Arab, called. +His brothers have brought thirty slaves from Soudan, +which are destined for the market of Constantina. One +of the Governor's sons goes to Soudan with the return +of the caravan, a lad not more than ten years of age; +he is to bring back merchandize as a regular trader. A +little urchin of a Touarick, not more than nine years, +came up to-day with his mother and asked me, "Why I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-163" id="V2-163"></a>[<a href="images/2-163.png">163</a>]</span> +did not know Mahomet?" but without waiting for a +reply, set on cursing me. It is amazing how well these +youngsters have learnt this lesson, and how soon! for +they never before saw, or perhaps heard of, a Christian. +The zealous mother had probably put up her son to this +pious cursing of The Christian.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill2-05.jpg"><img src="images/ill2-05_th.jpg" alt="View of the Town of Ghat from the Oasis" title="View of the Town of Ghat from the Oasis" /></a></p> + +<p><i>22nd.</i>—Made the tour of the oasis, and sketched a +view of the town, which is annexed. Weather extremely +warm to-day—nay, hot, and in the midst of January. +What must it be in August! But the weather is far +more changeable and uncertain in Sahara than it is +commonly thought to be. Several visits from the +Touaricks of Aheer. Gave one a small lock and key, +which is esteemed a great curiosity in this country. It +gladdened his heart so much, that I believe he would +now go through fire and water for me. He wanted to +take me to Soudan by main force. He went away, and +returned with some hard cheese made at Aheer, little<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-164" id="V2-164"></a>[<a href="images/2-164.png">164</a>]</span> +squares somewhat smaller than Dutch tiles, which he +presented in acknowledgment. I have had but few +returns for the great variety of things I have given away +in Ghat. The Medina Shereef, Khanouhen's son-in-law, +scolded me:—"Ah, Yâkob, you have done wrong to +give away so much. You'll get nothing back. This is +a country of extortioners and extortion from strangers. +You ought to have come here, said a few words, and +left us." This is fine talk for the Shereef. He knows as +well as I know, that this wouldn't do. A courier +arrived from Ghadames, by which I received two kind +letters from Malta. It seems a thousand years since I +received a letter from a friend.</p> + +<p>A Negress had the hardihood to call on me, begging, +in the name of Ouweek, thinking thereby to intimidate +me. The bandit, however, sent a person two or three +days ago to beg of me a little tobacco. I should certainly +have sent some, had I had any left. Hateetah +called, wondering what had become of me, as I had not +called on him for a few days. Gave him another dollar, +but it is the last. The Consul says there is a great +deal of fever about amongst the merchants and people, +but I don't see it. I was somewhat surprised, for I +thought the town enjoyed good health. I have reason +to be thankful that it does not attack me. Apparently +I'm fever proof. In all my life I never recollect to have +caught an epidemic fever.</p> + +<p><i>23rd.</i>—Called upon the Governor. His Excellency +displayed his hospitality by giving me zumeeta made +with dates and sour milk. Took the opportunity of +asking him about the origin of the Touaricks. He pretends +they are of Arab extraction. On inquiring how<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-165" id="V2-165"></a>[<a href="images/2-165.png">165</a>]</span> +they lost their language, whilst all the Arabian tribes +retained theirs, his Excellency replied, "They have learnt +Touarghee as you have learnt Arabic." This is extremely +unsatisfactory, for he could not explain from +whom they learnt Touarghee. About the history of +Ghat his Excellency knows nothing. He says only, "It +is a more ancient place than Ghadames," which, however, +I do not believe. His Excellency said the news +had arrived from Algeria, that the Emperor of Morocco +had united with Abdel Kader against the French, and +four districts had elected the Emir for their chief. Called +on Hateetah. Whilst there, an old lady of eighty years +of age came in and got up to dance before me in the +indecorous Barbary style, and then begged money. +Seeing she had outlived her wits and took a great fancy +for one of my buttons, I cut it off and gave it her to +the annoyance of Hateetah, the Consul scolding me for +my condescension.</p> + +<p>The Governor tells me there is a mountain of considerable +altitude about two days from Ghat, in the route +of Touat, from the base of which gush out some twelve +large streams. The rain this year has fallen plentifully +on these heights, and wheat and barley have been sown +on the banks of the streams. This is fact of importance +in Saharan geography, more especially as the mountain +is situate in that central part of the Great Desert +which is represented on the maps as an ocean of sand, +the scene of eternal desolation! . . . . . .</p> + +<p>Evening, whilst visiting Haj Ibrahim, who continues +unusually kind to me, came in our funny friend, the +famous Aheer camel-driver, Kandarka. This Kylouy +is a great favourite with all, the Governor excepted.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-166" id="V2-166"></a>[<a href="images/2-166.png">166</a>]</span> +People praise his undaunted courage and say, "If a troop +of fifty robbers were to attack Kandarka alone, he would +still resist them." He has shown himself very friendly +to me, and says, "Write a letter to Aheer, my Sultan, +and I will take it. When you return bring me one +thing—a sword, and I will take you safely over all +Soudan." He has great influence with En-Nour, Sultan +of Aheer, and any one travelling under Kandarka's protection +is sure of a good reception from En-Nour.</p> + +<p><i>24th.</i>—A fine day, but hot. Our departure is now +delayed till next month. What a dreadful loss of time +is this! I'm weary to death. I wish I had arranged +to continue to Soudan. Grown disgusted with Ghat, I +am reading what few books I have with me. Noticed +more parallel customs between Africa and the East.</p> + +<p>"And Isaac digged again the wells of water, which +they had digged in the days of Abraham his father; for +the Philistines had stopped them after the death of +Abraham: and he called their names after the names by +which his father had called them." (Gen. xxvi. 18.) +The object of stopping up the wells was to prevent the +children of Abraham making use of them and so occupying +the country. The same thing is done in Sahara. +When an enemy is to be exterminated, or robbers repulsed +from a particular district, the wells are stopped +up. Wells are also named by the digger of them. A +man who goes to the expense of digging out a well, if +peradventure he finds water, has the privilege of giving +to it his own name. There is one on the route from +Mourzuk to Tripoli called <i>Mukni</i> or <i>Beer-Mukni</i>, from +the great merchant who dug the well. So the name of +the city of Timbuctoo is said by some to be derived from<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-167" id="V2-167"></a>[<a href="images/2-167.png">167</a>]</span> +the Berber Word <i>teen</i>, "well", and <i>Buktu</i>, the name of the +person who on its present site dug a well for the rendezvous +or casual supply of passing caravans. But this +derivation is merely conjectural.</p> + +<p>"Take heed that thou <i>speak</i> not to Jacob, good or +bad." (Gen. xxi. 24.) The verb <i>speak</i> (‮תְּדַבֵּר‬) is used +for the verb to <i>do</i>. The same idiom prevails amongst +the Touaricks. The friendly Touaricks always address +me, "Don't be afraid, no person will <i>say</i> (or speak) either +good or bad to you." So Jabour's slave brought me word +from the Sheikh; "No person is to say anything (<i>do</i> +anything) to you."</p> + +<p>Dr. Wolff says, in his travels of Central Asia, the +people of a strange place always apply to his servant for +information about himself. So the Saharans apply to +my Negro servant for news or information about me.</p> + +<p>"And David sat between the two gates . . . . . and +the king said, If he be <i>alone</i> then is tidings in his mouth . . . . . . tidings." +(2 Sam. xviii. 24, 25, 26.) All +couriers in this country are sent <i>alone</i>. When they +travel through Sahara they have a camel to ride, but if +there be abundant water on the road they go on foot. +Merchants pay each so much to the courier according to +their means. A courier sent from this to Tripoli, who +also returns and brings answers to the letters, will receive +altogether fifteen dollars. Touarghee couriers +between this and Ghadames go for half the sum.—"And +the watchman went up to the roof over the gate unto +the wall and lifted up his eyes," &c. (part of the verses +above cited). When a spy was sent from Ghadames to +watch the Shânbah and their approaches round the +country, on the eve of my departure from that place,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-168" id="V2-168"></a>[<a href="images/2-168.png">168</a>]</span> +people went up a ruined tower, situated on a high ground, +and apparently built specially for the purpose, <i>to watch</i> +the return of the spy. I have seen several of these +watch towers in the oases of Sahara.</p> + +<p>"And they took Absalom and cast him into a great +pit in the wood, and laid a very great heap of stones +upon him." (2 Sam. xviii. 17.) When one dies in open +desert, the people lay a heap of stones over the grave, +the heap being smaller or larger according to the rank +and consequence of the individual. The mention of "a +very great heap," in the words cited, evidently denotes +the royal rank of the deceased.</p> + +<p><i>25th.</i>—My young Targhee called today as usual. +Asked him abruptly, "What he did? What was his +occupation? And how the Touaricks employed themselves?" +With great simplicity, "When the <i>nagah</i> +(she-camel) is with young and gives no milk, we come +to Ghat, and eat dates and ghusub and bread, if we can +get them. When the nagah gives milk we return and +drink milk and lie down on the road side. This is all +which Touaricks do." The Touaricks are determined to +feel as little of the primeval curse,—"In the sweat of thy +face shalt thou eat bread,"—as any people. The Targhee +then gave me spontaneously a bit of knowledge which I +had not before heard. He proceeded, "When I return +to my house <i>on the road</i> (or by the caravan route), and +to my wife, I don't uncover my face and go up to her +and stare boldly at my wife. No, I cover my face all +over, and sit down gently by her side, waiting till she +speaks with all patience. When she speaks, I speak, because +I know then that she is willing to speak. It is +very indecent to go to your wife with your face un<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-169" id="V2-169"></a>[<a href="images/2-169.png">169</a>]</span>covered." +In fact, generally amongst the Touaricks, +the men have their faces covered and the women their +faces uncovered. The reverse of what we find in other +Mahometan countries. But also the reverse of what the +native modesty of the human mind dictates.</p> + +<p>Atkee, the Ghadamsee Arab, who was to have been +my companion to Soudan, went off, returning to Ghadames, +without paying the money which I committed to +his care for the owner of the camel's flesh, which we ate +on the route of Ghat. Atkee besides neglected to bring +the money for the half of the skin of the sheep which I +purchased with him, according to promise. These things +are merest trifles, but merest trifles develop the character +of men. It is such actions of dishonesty which make +one afraid of travelling in Africa, lest we are sacrificed to +the designing villany of those who pretend most and +exhibit the most officious marks of friendship. In such +a way poor Laing was entrapped and murdered. This +very Atkee, I considered the first man of the ghafalah. +Zaleâ now tells me that Atkee wished to lay on two +more dollars for the things given to Ouweek. But the +Arabs, like the Cretans of old, are "all liars," and I +don't wish to make Atkee worse than he was. I am +sufficiently disappointed with him.</p> + +<p>The Medina Shereef called, who is the most learned +person in Ghat. I showed him the Arabic Bible, which +amazed and confounded him, as he turned over its well-printed +pages. He sighed, nay, literally groaned, at the +profanity of having our infidel religion translated into +the holy Arabic language. The Shereef told me Arabic +would be the language of heaven. The Jews tell us it +will be <i>Hebrew</i>, (or ‮לשן הקדש‬). The Latin Church has<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-170" id="V2-170"></a>[<a href="images/2-170.png">170</a>]</span> +its holy Latin, and a <i>trilingual</i> bible of "<i>Hebrew, Latin, +Greek</i>," was said by pious fathers of that Church, to +represent "Christ crucified between two thieves." The +Hindoos have their sacred Sanscrit, and so of the rest. +The benumbed and frozen mind of the Esquimaux, amidst +the fat seals, blubber, and seas of oil in which it revels +and swims, when anticipating the joys of the polar heaven, +makes the tongue involuntarily speak in genuine Esquimauxan +gibberish. It is, however, not surprising that +the language in which a people first receives the rudiments +of its religion should be greatly venerated and +acquire a peculiar sacredness. The Shereef asked me +to show him the passage where Mahomet was spoken of +under the title of Parakleit; but he kept off religious +discussion, having more delicacy than his neighbours of +Ghat. Ignorance is bliss to a Shereef of these countries. +Were the Shereef to see the wonders of Christian civilization, +he would be stung to death with envy. A gentleman +once told me as the result of his experience in Barbary, that +a Mussulman who had not seen Europe was more friendly +to Christians than one who had, accounting for it on the +principle of a despicable envy.</p> + +<p><i>26th.</i>—The weather continues warm and fine; little +wind. Objects at fifty miles' distance seem close upon +you, so clear and rarefied is the air. Berka came this +morning ostensibly for eye-powders, but really for a bit +more sugar for his little grandson, the well-beloved son of +his old age.</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Berka.</i>—"Sala-a-a-m!"</p> + +<p><i>The writer.</i>—"Good morning, Berka."</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Berka.</i>—"Medicine for my eyes."</p> + +<p><i>The writer.</i>—"Here is some powder, you must<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-171" id="V2-171"></a>[<a href="images/2-171.png">171</a>]</span> +mix it with a bowl of water; but take care, it's poisonous."</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Berka.</i>—"Good God, Christian! take it back, +my little son will eat it for sugar. He gets everything +and eats."</p> + +<p><i>The writer.</i>—"Here's some sugar for him."</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Berka.</i>—"God Almighty bless you."</p> + +<p><i>The writer.</i>—"How old are you, Berka?"</p> + +<p><i>Sheikh Berka.</i>—"My mother knows, but she's gone. +She's gone to God!"</p> + +<p>Essnousee came in for eye-powders to make a solution, +and fever-powders to take with him to Soudan. Have +only two or three of the latter which I keep for myself. +Gave him the last I had. He said, "You don't see the +fever, you don't visit enough, there's plenty of it in the +houses." Apparently it is common intermittent fever with +some climatic variety; I think Tertian ague.</p> + +<p>People are more civil in the streets to-day, and the +rabble has lost its curiosity or fancy for running after +us. Negroes and slaves are still impudent, not recognizing +in the Kafer their secret friend. Saw Khanouhen +in the Esh-Shelly, who called after me to come to him. +Hateetah was with him. The Prince began his satires +on the Consul:—"Yâkob, who is the best man, I or +Hateetah? Have you written<a name="FNa_2-23" id="FNa_2-23"></a><a href="#FoN_2-23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> this fellow Hateetah? +All about him? Is this the English Consul? Does your +Sultan own him?" Khanouhen pressed him so hard, +that I ran off to save Hateetah's feelings, all the people +roaring with laughter, and calling me back.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-172" id="V2-172"></a>[<a href="images/2-172.png">172</a>]</span></p> +<p>Afternoon saw the Governor. His Excellency +lavished his hospitality on me. He gave me coffee, +dried Soudan beef cut up into shreds, and some of the +Soudan almonds. These almonds are not fine flavoured +like those of the north, but are viscid, rancid, and bitter. +Nor are they of the same beautiful filbert-form, but of +clumsy oval and double-oval shapes. The shell is soft, +and can be broken easily with the fingers. The kernel +is mostly double, and when slightly rubbed splits into +halves or rather two kernels. The dried beef is very +pleasant eating, but rather too dry, the fat and moisture +being all consumed. We have heard of beef cooked in +the sun on the bastions of Malta, but this is really beef +cooked in the sun. It is an excellent provision for long +journeys over The Desert. People chew it as tobacco is +chewed. Our Governor-Marabout got very familiar this +morning, and talked about his family. He called a +little boy and said to me, "Look at my little son, he's as +white as you are white." The child was indeed very +fair for a young Saharan. He asked me as tabeeb, if +Christian women had more children than one, and if +they went longer than a year, which he had heard. He +pretended his was a small family, and he should like to +have fifty children, which, he added, "all Sultans ought +to have;" but, for money he did not care, he wished +all his children were poor but pious marabouts. His +preaching is quite contrary to his practice. A more +money-getting ambitious fellow I have not found in The +Desert. The report which I heard of the Governor +of Ghat being changed whilst at Ghadames, was a sham +abdication on his part. From domestic matters he proceeded +to talk of politics. His Excellency is always<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-173" id="V2-173"></a>[<a href="images/2-173.png">173</a>]</span> +anxious to give an immense idea of the fighting qualities +and numbers of the Touaricks. He wishes me to make +a favourable report of them, and his position at Ghat, +and country. He declares the warriors to muster +15,000 strong, which would give too numerous a population +for the Azgher section of Touaricks. The Haghar, +and especially the Kylouy Touaricks, have an infinitely +larger population than those of Ghat. The Marabout +pretends there are some Touaricks who never saw corn +or tasted bread, and others who dress only in skins. +Indeed, I saw a Touarghee from the country, as well as +The Touarick Prophet, dressed entirely in skins and +tanned leather.</p> + +<p>His Excellency then introduced his favourite subject +of the battles between Moslems and Nazarenes for the +possession of Constantinople, in which his ancestors so +valiantly fought. He said, the sword of one of his +grandfathers was laid up in the armoury of Stamboul, +and submitted to me if I thought the Turks would give +it to him if he were to make the demand. I told him +to apply to the British Ambassador at the Porte, making +the thing of the consequence suited to the Marabout's +taste. "No," he replied, "I shall go myself one day +and fetch it." His Excellency then began to extol the +military forces and powers of the princes of Africa:—"The +Sultan of Timbuctoo has 100,000 fighting men! +Wadai has 100,000 warriors! The Sultans of Soudan +have innumerable hosts, as the sand-grains of The +Desert are innumerable!" He then asked silly questions +as to whether the Turks could beat the Christians in +fighting. I told him plainly, the Turks now learnt the +art of war from the Christians, and the latter were not<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-174" id="V2-174"></a>[<a href="images/2-174.png">174</a>]</span> +only superior to them, but to all Mohammedans whatever, +Arabs or Touaricks, Kabyles, or what not, recommending +his Excellency not to credit the absurd reports +propagated by foolish dervishes of The Desert, as to how +the Emperor of Morocco was conquering all the French +and other Christians. Indeed, I'm obliged to be school-master, +and geographer, and admonisher, to Sheikhs, +marabouts, merchants, to all and every body. The +subject of religion was now introduced, and I found the +Governor, though a Marabout, of the first water, did +not know that the Christians read and studied the sacred +books of the Jews. I told his Excellency, Christian +Marabouts must read and study the sacred books of all +religions, and Christian talebs frequently read the Koran +to acquire a knowledge of classic Arabic. This information +greatly amazed the Governor. I cannot, however, +report more of his conversation, which would be endless. +I sent him on my return the Arabic Bible, which the +Shereef had told him I had with me.</p> + +<p>Spent the evening with Haj Ibrahim. The Haj surprised +me by saying, "All my slaves, even the youngest +of not more than four or five years' old, must walk to +Tripoli as they have walked from Kanou to Ghat." I +found Kandarka with him. The camel-driver is a right-jolly +fellow, quite a new species of being from the Touaricks +of Ghat. A great deal of merry laughing and +grinning Negro feeling is in his composition. But, with +all his fun, he is a most determined man. He is about +to convey some of the Haj's merchandize to Kanou, as +being the bravest and most trust-worthy of all the Aheer +camel-drivers.</p> + +<p><i>27th.</i>—I'm out of my reckonings with the Moors by<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-175" id="V2-175"></a>[<a href="images/2-175.png">175</a>]</span> +some mistake or other, of them or me, for I'm Monday, +and they're Tuesday. Their month and our month, like +our respective religions, is also in continual collision, +their month being lunar, not solar. The weather is very +warm. Am exceedingly tired of remaining in Ghat; +always regretting I did not determine to go to Soudan. +Merchants are daily leaving in small caravans, not large +caravans, which is a proof of the security of the routes, and +the word of the Touarghee Sheikh is "one" word; "The +routes are all in peace," they say. Walked out with a very +large stick, which frightened the Ghatee boys, who all +thought it was for them, on account of their former sauciness. +Was surprised at the Medina Shereef asking me to +lend (give) him fifteen dollars to go to Tripoli. I promised +very foolishly to give him his provisions to Tripoli, in +the event of his proceeding with our caravan. What +people for begging are these! The Shereef had just +been scolding me for giving so much to these importunates. +Although their houses are full of stores and +money, they will still beg, and beg, and beg . . . . beg . . . beg. . . But +this evening, at Haj +Ibrahim's, we had a transcendant specimen of begging. +The beggar was no less a personage than The Giant. +I may remind the reader, The Giant is the son of Berka's +sister, and is head of the tribe at Berka's death. The +Giant therefore came to demand backsheesh, as being the +lineal successor of Berka, who was Haj Ibrahim's protector. +Haj Ibrahim observed:—"I have given Berka twenty +dollars, and some other presents, and I cannot give any +thing to his oulad ('sons.')" The Giant would hear none +of this, insisted upon a present for himself, and swore by +all the sacred names of the Deity, frequently using his<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-176" id="V2-176"></a>[<a href="images/2-176.png">176</a>]</span> +favourite oath, "Allah Akbar!" After an hour's debating, +it was agreed that, for the future, Berka, if he +lived till another year, (for the aged chieftain is "tottering +o'er the grave,") should have a smaller present, and +the portion subtracted should be given to The Giant. +But this is cutting the blanket at one end, to sew the +piece on the other, for the sons and nephews of Berka +now share the presents amongst them. His Giantship +was very condescending to me, though savage enough +with the merchant. He laughed and joked, and +"grinned a ghastly smile," and asked me, why I did not +go into the public square and see all the people, thinking +my not going out more showed a want of confidence in +the Touaricks. Want of confidence in a Touarick is the +most serious insult you can offer to him. So Dr. Oudney +properly records of Hateetah, and says, "he was indignant +at the feelings which the people of Mourzuk had +against the Touaricks—the Touaricks who pride themselves +in having one word, and performing what they +promise." But Hateetah has since become an old man, +and, with the usual prudence of age, recommends me not +to go much about amongst the people. "Something +unpleasant might happen," he says, "for which all the +Sheikhs would be sorry." The Giant said to me, "Come, +you Christian, I shall sell you a wife of the Shânbah +women. Stop here till I come back."</p> + +<p>A most affecting incident was related to me by Mustapha. +Two of his slaves quarrelled, and last night, +whilst one was fast asleep, the other went stealthily and +fetched a shovelful of burning wood ashes, and poured +them over the sleeping slave's face, tongue, and neck! +He is suffering sadly, and Mustapha has called for<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-177" id="V2-177"></a>[<a href="images/2-177.png">177</a>]</span> +medicine. So act these poor creatures, the victims of a +common misfortune. How cruel is man to his brother! +In all situations, man is his own enemy! This incident +reminds me of what Colonel Keatinge relates of the unfortunate +Jews in Morocco. Although the Jews are +very badly treated in that empire, and all suffer great +indignities, yet, to increase their own misfortunes, and by +their own hands, one Jew has actually been known to +purchase from the Sultan the right, the privilege of +torturing another Jew. The speculation, adds the +Colonel, was considered "a good one," because, if no +pecuniary advantage followed, the pleasure of inflicting +the torture was certain. The privilege of bidding for +himself, or buying himself from the torture, was the only +one allowed the victim on such horrible occasions! Some +people have pretended that there is a limit to human +degradation; but there is always a lower depth—and a +still lower depth. Not death itself limits this sort of +degradation—the tomb of the unfortunate Morocco Jew +is defiled—and his name and faith furnishes, unendingly, +the "by-words" of the curse of the Moor! On the late +massacre of the Jews at Mogador, neither the Earl of +Aberdeen nor Monsieur Guizot, condescended to remonstrate +to the Moorish Emperor; nor did their co-religionists +of France and England attempt (that I have +heard of) to excite their Governments on behalf of the +plundered and houseless Maroquine Jews . . . How +long are these things to last? . . . Till doomsday? . . . But +did not Jupiter give Pandora the box with +hope at the bottom? . . . To be serious, would not +a million or two of the Rothschilds be well spent in +buying the freedom of the Morocco Jews? Could a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-178" id="V2-178"></a>[<a href="images/2-178.png">178</a>]</span> +patriotic Jew do any thing which, in the last moment of his +life, would produce more and such satisfactory reflections? +It is to be hoped that the patriotic Jews of Europe are +not like some foolish Christians who wish to continue +the oppression of the Jews in order to fulfil the prophecies, +as if God could not take care of his own veracity! +But these sottish Christians had better mind what they +are about, in contributing to the continued oppression of +the Jews, and preventing their emancipation, because, +whatever may be the duration of the prophetic curse +upon the Jews, God will not, cannot hold the contributors +to their oppression guiltless, no more than he did the +Babylonian princes who first carried away the Jews +into captivity.</p> + +<p><i>28th.</i>—Distributed to the Soudanese merchants solution +for the eyes. This evening Haj Ibrahim's slaves sung +and played together in the court-yard. They consist of +girls and boys, and young women. They sung in choruses, +one first repeating a line or a verse in the style of +the ancient Greeks. Their voices are not very melodious, +and they remind me of the responses of a charity +school at church. Still it is grateful to one's feelings to +witness how pitying is God to these poor things, in giving +them such happy hearts in the early days of their +bondage! Kandarka was here, the same merry-hearted +fellow as before. Providence has compensated Africa +for the wrongs inflicted by her enemies, in giving her +children a happy and contented disposition.</p> + +<p><i>29th.</i>—A fine morning; weather warm, cold seems to +have left us altogether. I have discussed the "vexed +question," with the Soudanese and Saharan merchants, as +to how the ostrich is hunted and caught. In Soudan<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-179" id="V2-179"></a>[<a href="images/2-179.png">179</a>]</span> +the ostrich is snared by small cords, the bird getting its +legs into the nooses. The trap is a quantity of herbage +laid over the cordage. Here the Negro waits for his +rich feathery booty, and draws the cordage as soon as +their feet are in the noose. Others throw stones, sticks, +and lances, at the ostrich; others shoot them. But in +Sahara, and in what is called the edge of The Desert, +the ostrich is simply ridden down by the mounted Arab +during the great heats of summer. The ostrich, though +a tenant of the burning Sahara, cannot run well for any +length of time during the summer, and so becomes the +prey of the Arab, whose horse bears heat better. In +and about Wadnoun, ostriches are hunted with what is +called the Desert horse, which is a horse living chiefly on +milk, and which has a power of endurance the most +extraordinary. This agrees with Porret, who says, "the +ostriches can only be taken by tiring them down." But +he does not mention the summer. Riley says the ostrich +is driven before the wind, and Jackson against the wind, +in being hunted. Captain Lyon says, "it is during the +breeding season the greatest number of ostriches are +caught, the Arabs shooting the old ones on their nests." +The Sahara is a world of itself, peopled with a variety +of hunters, who will each hunt in the manner he likes +best. I may add, as I have often alluded to Biblical +matters, the story of the ostrich forsaking her eggs, +and leaving them to be hatched in the sun, is not correct. +Merchants often questioned me as to what we did with +ostrich feathers, people making no particular use of them +in Sahara. When I told them our ladies adorned their +heads with ostrich feathers, they laughed heartily, adding, +"How ridiculous!" We laugh at their sable beauties<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-180" id="V2-180"></a>[<a href="images/2-180.png">180</a>]</span> +adorning their necks and bosoms with trumpery glass-beads, +and they laugh at our red and white beauties +adorning their heads with ostrich feathers. The Chinese +have their peacock's feather as a set-off against our +button-hole ribbon; "Ainsi va le monde." One of the +Aheer Touaricks, who, unlike my Ghat friends, return +presents, brought me to-day a damaged ostrich skin and +feathers. Being quite out of pens, and not able to persuade +the Tripolines to send me up a few quills, I cut +out several ostrich quills, and had the pleasure, for the +first time in my life, of writing with an ostrich pen. I +cut several, and amused and satirized myself by writing +in my journal with one quill, "James Richardson has +much to learn;" with another quill, "Richardson, James, +must take care of his health," &c., "Yâkob Richardson +was an egregious ass to come into The Desert," &c., &c. +These quills are very firm, if not fine and flexible, and it +is a good substitute in The Desert for "the grey goose +quill." I was so delighted with this unexpected supply +of pens, that I offered the Touarghee of Aheer another +present, but he resolutely refused it, adding, "I wish +to show you that a Touarick of Aheer can be grateful, +and do a kindness to a stranger, without eating him up." +This was a tall man, of fair complexion, but pitted with +the small-pox, of middle age, and called Mohammed. +He was one of the best specimens of Aheer Touaricks, +and always said to me, "Come to our country. You +will walk about the streets without being molested by +any one. We never saw a Christian in our country, and +we wish to see one."</p> + +<p>Evening, a ghafalah from Aheer has arrived, bringing +sixty camel-loads of senna, and ten of elephants' teeth.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-181" id="V2-181"></a>[<a href="images/2-181.png">181</a>]</span> +A courier is also come from Touat, with the intelligence +that the Shânbah, instead of fleeing away from the +threatened attack of the Touaricks, had boldly appeared +on the Touarick territory, in the route of Touat and +Ghadames, having a force of 1200 mounted men. The +Touaricks are at last alarmed, and dispatching messengers +through all their districts, to give intelligence of the +arrival of the enemy. I'm afraid the Touaricks have +been making too sure of their approaching success. A +messenger has been sent after the last Ghadamsee ghafalah +which left here. Great excitement prevails in the +town, and Jabour and Khanouhen are preparing to leave +for their districts, where the levies of troops are collecting. +A portion of the Tripoline ghafalah is stopped a +few hours from this, on account of three of the camels +running away during the night. The camel is by no +means so stupid as it looks, and knows exactly when +it is about to commence a long journey over The Desert. +The three camels could not withstand the temptation of +the herbage in the wady, and started off, and will not be +found for days. Fulness of food as well as hunger makes +animals savage. One of our camels whilst grazing bit a +slave, and has nearly killed him. This, however, rarely +happens; the camel is generally docile, if not harmless.</p> + +<p>The Touaricks belonging to Berka have just paid +Christians a very high compliment, but at my expense. +I promised some more sugar to Berka if I could get any +from Haj Ibrahim. The Sheikh sent twice for the sugar, +and yesterday, when some of his people visited the merchant, +they said to him, "Where is the sugar of The +Christian? It is not right for Yâkob to treat us thus. +Christians never lie." A Christian tourist must never<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-182" id="V2-182"></a>[<a href="images/2-182.png">182</a>]</span> +follow the example of a Mahometan in this country, that +is, of always promising and never refusing, because it is +disagreeable to refuse. In the above case, however, my +promise was quite conditional, on Haj Ibrahim's having +sugar. Nevertheless, there is happily an opinion prevalent +in North Africa, that Christians, and especially +English Christians, have but "one word." Let all of us +British tourists try to keep up this high character.</p> + +<p><i>30th.</i>—A little colder this morning, and foggy. The +senna ghafalah will detain us three days more. Our +camels are come up from the grazing districts; my nagah +looks much better. Jabour called this morning to bid +me farewell, before departing to his country house. The +Sheikh leaves this evening. Ashamed of the small present +I made him on my arrival, I apologized, and +begged him to accept of the only razor I had, which +being quite new, and very large and fine-looking, exceedingly +pleased the Sheikh. We had together a good deal +of the most friendly conversation. Jabour promises, on +my return, to conduct me <i>en route</i> for Timbuctoo, and +confide me to the care of some of his trustworthy followers. +He will conduct me by the south-western route, +which is stated to be forty-five days' journey on M. +Carette's map. But the Sheikh tells me it is only thirty +days, or less. This route is intersected by many mountains, +the height of which is so great, that the valleys +are, for Sahara, perceptibly cold. These heights attract +the clouds and condense them into rain, and the rocky +region is full of beautiful springs and foaming cascades, +of eternal freshness. There is, however, the dreaded +plain of <i>Tenezrouft</i> (‮تنزروفت‬) to be traversed, eight +days without water for man, or herbage for camels. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-183" id="V2-183"></a>[<a href="images/2-183.png">183</a>]</span> +is the grand difficulty in getting to Timbuctoo from the +north. The Sheikh went so far as to insure my safety +to Timbuctoo and back. He then observed, "All the +people from Tripoli are under my protection, all Christians +who come that way. Tell your countrymen they +have nothing to fear in that route; tell them to come in +peace." He continued, "Why, I observe you writing +Arabic, why don't you believe in our books?" I answered, +"We have our prophet, who is Jesus; but all +Christians believe that 'God is one,' that 'God is the +most merciful,' (‮ربّ واحد‬—‮الله الرحمان الرحيم‬)" citing +this Arabic. He then shook hands most cordially with +me, and we parted (for ever?). I always looked upon +this good and just man as the <i>bonâ fide</i> friend, not only +of me and Christians, but of all strangers, visiting Ghat, +whatsoever. A little while after he sent me, by one of +his people, a small present of a Touarghee travelling +bag, made of coarse-dressed leather. This is my first +present from a Touarghee Sheikh, and I shall keep it as +long as I can.</p> + +<p>As soon as Jabour left, Hateetah came in, but in a +very different mood. Somebody had told him I had +given the razor to Jabour, and he was also annoyed at +seeing the present from Jabour, of whom he is, as of all +the other Sheikhs, very jealous. Hateetah now vented +his rage against Haj Ibrahim, for only giving him a turban-band. +He swore solemnly he would cut the merchant's +throat on the road if he did not give him five or ten +dollars. I laughed at this petulant sally, and said, +"Yes, cut his throat; you will do better than Ouweek." +This was too much for Hateetah, who was trying, but<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-184" id="V2-184"></a>[<a href="images/2-184.png">184</a>]</span> +apparently unable, to work himself up into a passion, +and he couldn't help breaking down; so taking me by +the hand, he said, "Do you believe me?" He was in +hopes I would go and report this mock-furious speech to +Haj Ibrahim, but I was determined I would not interfere. +He then abused the route of Fezzan, and said it was full +of banditti. Of this also I took no notice.</p> + +<p>One of my most curious acquaintances is an old +Touatee, established in Ghat as a trader many years. +He comes frequently to barter with me, bringing bits of +cheese and dried meat. He will never let go his wares +until he gets the equivalent fast in his hands. But he +has no prejudice against Christians. He often recommends +to me the sable beauties of Ghat, but I always +reply, "This is prohibited to Christians." He is very +much puzzled to know what I write about, and says, +"Don't write anything against me."</p> + +<p>Spent the evening with Haj Ibrahim. The senna, +which was formerly only four and a half dollars the +cantar, is now six, at which price the merchant bought +twenty camel-loads to-day. Kandarka came in, and this +funny fellow, on seeing me, immediately cried out, +"Saif zain," "wahad," which, being interpreted literally, +means, "A fine sword!" "one!" but with a more enlarged +interpretation and paraphrase, means, "Bring me a fine +sword when you come back, a sword which will kill a +man with one stroke." After repeating this twenty times +and suiting the action to the word, the Aheer camel-driver +set to and caricatured the Touaricks of Ghat in +general, and the Sultan Shafou in particular. His topic +was the Shânbah war, the everlasting theme now in Ghat. +The camel-driver mimicked and satirized the aged Sultan<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-185" id="V2-185"></a>[<a href="images/2-185.png">185</a>]</span> +by taking up a walking-stick and walking in a stooping +posture, leaning on the staff, begging from door to door, +knocking at the door of the room in which we were +sitting, slipping down the wrapper from his mouth, +which the Touaricks do when they attempt to speak in +earnest, and was to show the importunity of the begging +Sultan. This drama was performed to denote the +general poverty of the Ghat Touaricks, as compared with +the rich Touaricks of Aheer. The Aheer comedian then +caricatured all the Touaricks together, by shaking his +hands and body as if a tremor was passing through his +limbs; he then fell at full length on the floor, as if dead. +In this way the comic camel-driver ridiculed the poverty +and pusillanimity of Ghat Touaricks. He convulsed all +the Moors and Arabs with laughter. In fact, he hit off +the objects of his satire as well as some of our best +comedians. And from what I can learn in town, it +would appear the pride of Khanouhen is humbled before +the threatening aspect of the war. Made Kandarka a +present of a razor which I purchased of Haj Ibrahim. +He took it up and exclaimed, "Saif zain, wahad, I'll +unman all the Touaricks with this. Who's Khanouhen? +(raising himself up in a boasting position.) Who's +Jabour?—only a Marabout. Who's Hateetah?—a +whimpering slave-girl! What is Berka?—soon to be +coffined? Shafou! Come, I'll give thee, poor Sultan, a +little bit of bread. As to that tall fellow (the Giant), +there's no camel big enough to carry him. He'll fall +down on the road and rot like a dog." This is amply +sufficient to show that satire is not an European monopoly, +but grows indigenous to The Desert. I asked +the Governor what he should do if the Shânbah should<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-186" id="V2-186"></a>[<a href="images/2-186.png">186</a>]</span> +come up against Ghat, recommending him to secure his +doors well and prepare for defence. He replied, "I'm a +Marabout." But this character would not screen him +from the shot of the Shânbah matchlocks. Of course, +there's not a bit of ordnance in The Sahara. I don't +recollect seeing a single piece of cannon at the Turkish +fortified places of Mourzuk, or Sockna, or Bonjem.</p> + +<p><i>31st.</i>—Took a walk to see the Governor. He was +very civil, and I begin to think more of his talent. His +Excellency was very busy in weighing gold. He divided +it into halves, into thirds, into quarters, and weighed it +all ways, and separately, with much skill. This gold was +brought yesterday from Touat by some Touateen, +originally brought from Timbuctoo, there being no gold +or precious metals in this part of Sahara. People pretend, +however, there is coal in the route between Ghat +and Touat. But were it found there ever so plentifully, it +would not pay the carriage to the coast. The Marabout +merchant next unpacked two camels, laden with heiks or +barracans, with presents of tobacco and shoes (Morocco), +for himself and his family. These were sent from his +relatives in Ain Salah. On one of the packages was +written in Arabic, "To our brother, the Marabout, God +bless him." In this unpacking, all his family were employed +for a couple of hours as busy as bees. The +Governor afterwards gave us coffee, and asked me to +examine the head of one of his children. He had +heard from the merchants of Ghadames how I had examined +the heads of the servants of Rais Mustapha. This +child could not walk, having no strength in his limbs. +The brain was pushed backwards and forwards, very flat +on the sides, and sharp at the top of the head, leaving a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-187" id="V2-187"></a>[<a href="images/2-187.png">187</a>]</span> +very miserable portion in the central regions. The entire +nervous system was evidently deranged. The Governor +had no difficulty in crediting my power of divination +through phrenology, believing, like other Moors, that we +Christians have familiar conversation with the Devil, by +which we acquire our superiority of knowledge over them, +the Faithful. His Excellency, on taking leave, gave me +some Touat dates, which are hard but extremely sweet. +This species is called <i>Tenakor</i>. The dates of Warklah +and Souf are also very sweet. One of the Touatee +asked me, if I would go to Timbuctoo. I replied, "I'm +afraid." "You are right," he said, "for there's no +Sultan there, everybody does as he likes, all men are +equal." Certainly a powerful Sultan would be of advantage +in The Sahara, for a traveller would then have +but one master to conciliate, now he has ten thousand +masters to propitiate. People in quarrelling say, "You +must not do this (or that), for you are in a <i>Blad Sheikh</i>" +(a country where there is a constituted authority). +Liberty is a good thing, nothing is better; but there +must be with it morality. Without morality, liberty is +only liberty to do mischief. On my return home, +Hateetah called. The first word he <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'utterred'">uttered</ins> was, "I'm at +war with Haj Ibrahim." "Ah," I replied, "you must +cut his throat, he's a great rascal." Hateetah dropped +his complaint at once, and observed, "Patience; all the +Touaricks leave here to-morrow to go against the Shânbah, +I only shall remain to go with you." He informed +me the place of rendezvous is Dēdā, or Dēdē, three or +four days westward from Ghat. Shafou and Khanouhen +are there, and an immense congregation of all the tribes +is sitting in council and debate. Shafou has sent a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-188" id="V2-188"></a>[<a href="images/2-188.png">188</a>]</span> +message to allow Hateetah to go with me to Fezzan. +All the mahrys are in urgent request for the war, and +Khanouhen has prohibited the Touaricks from engaging +their camels for the carriage of merchandize. After all +it appears there is a strong government in The Desert. +One of the questions debated is, "Whether they shall +attack the Haghar tribes, subjected to the Sultan Bassa, +if they (the Haghar) give an asylum to the Shânbah." +The Touat people wish the Azgher and Haghar tribes to +unite for the extermination of the robbers, who injure +the commerce of all this part of Sahara. In the evening +saw Haj Ibrahim. Kandarka came in: "Saif zain, +wahad," he bawled out as usual. He entered into a +minute description of the kind of sword he wished, one +that would bend and was as elastic as a cane.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-23" id="FoN_2-23"></a><a href="#FNa_2-23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> When you make a drawing, they say "Write" a drawing, or +"Write" a man, instead of draw a man.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-189" id="V2-189"></a>[<a href="images/2-189.png">189</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII.</h2> + +<h3>PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Account of Timbuctoo.—Streets of Ghat deserted by departure of +Caravans.—Packing of Senna.—Return of the Soudan Caravan.—The +Giant and his Gang sally out in search of a Supper.—System +of Irrigation.—The Saharan Hades.—Continued departure +of People to Soudan.—Hateetah serves himself from Haj +Ibrahim's Goods.—Scold Ghadamsee Merchants for introducing +Religious Discussion.—Mode of Fashionable Dressing of the +Hair, and Female Adornment.—Saharan Beauties.—Costume +of Touaricks.—Gardens of the Governor.—Attempt a Journey +to Wareerat Range.—Hateetah and Haj Ibrahim become reconciled.—Departure +of Kandarka for Aheer.—Day of my +departure from Ghat.—Moral and Social Condition of the Saharan +People compared to European Society.—Force of our Slave +Caravan.—First Night's Bivouack.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="smcap">I have</span> not obtained any additional information at +Ghat respecting the still mysterious city of Timbuctoo. +In comparing Caillié's description with that given by the +American sailor, Robert Adams, I find Caillié's information +agrees the better with what I have collected +myself from the mouths of those who have been long +resident at Timbuctoo. Indeed, Adams's description +apparently refers to some Negro city in Bambara or +thereabouts, between Jinnee and Timbuctoo. But I +shall not attempt to impugn the veracity of the one or +the other. Caillié says, "The little information which I +have obtained of Timbuctoo was furnished me by my +host Sidi Abdullah-Chebir, and the Kissour Negroes." +In another place he says that he wished to return <i>viâ</i> +Morocco, and not by the Senegal, for fear he should not<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-190" id="V2-190"></a>[<a href="images/2-190.png">190</a>]</span> +be believed, his countrymen being envious of his success. +Both of these statements deserve consideration in determining +the authenticity of his voyage.</p> + +<p>A great variety of spelling exists in the writing of +the name of Timbuctoo. M. Jomard, Member of the +French Institute, gives ‮تِيم٘بُك٘تُ‬ but says he does not +think that this word when properly written contains the +‮ي‬. He thinks, however, we may be satisfied with the +orthography of ‮تِم٘بُك٘تُ‬. And he adds, "I know that +Batouta writes Te<i>n</i>boctou, <i>n</i> being used for <i>m</i>." I have +found two ways of spelling Timbuctoo in The Desert, +viz., ‮تِن٘بُك٘تُوا‬, and ‮تِن٘بُك٘تُا‬, and they both agree with +Batouta. We may, therefore, consider Batouta's style +of spelling the more correct orthography. Now, ‮تين‬, +<i>Teen</i>, in Touarghee, is "well" or "pit." The term +occurs in combination with many names of stations in +Targhee Sahara, as will be seen in the map; for example, +<i>Teenyeghen</i>, a well of water, seven days' journey on +the route from Ghadames to Ghat; and <i>Nijberteen</i>, a +well in my route from Ghadames to Ghat, already mentioned. +In the first instance <i>Teen</i> occurs at the beginning +of the word, and the second at the end; but, in +both cases, the meaning is "the well of Nijber," and +"the well of Yeghen." <i>Teenbuktu</i> follows the same rule +of Berber or Touarghee combination, and means "the +Well of Buktu," probably Buktu being the digger of the +pits of Timbuctoo.</p> + +<p>With regard to information collected by myself of +this city, I can only add a few particulars. Timbuctoo<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-191" id="V2-191"></a>[<a href="images/2-191.png">191</a>]</span> +is situated upon the northern flats of the Niger, or at +about half a day's distance from it during the summer, +and three hours only in winter, the difference arising +from the increase of the water of the river during the +latter season. But our merchants do not mention +whether this river be a branch of the Niger (which +they call Neel or Nile), or the Niger itself. This +they are evidently unacquainted with. They never +mention the port of Cabra, which is so distinctly +noticed by Caillié. The climate is hot, and always +hot, but extremely healthy—as healthy as any part of +Central Africa. The city is about four times larger +than Tripoli as to area, but in proportion not so +densely inhabited, the population being about 23,000 +souls. It has no walls now; though it formerly had, and +is open to the inroads of the tribes of The Desert. The +population is very mixed, and consists of Fullans, who +are the dominant caste, Touaricks, Negroes, and Moors +and Arabs from different oases of Sahara, as also from +the Northern Coast of Africa. The majority of the +Moors are Maroquines. The Government is absolute, +and now in the delegated possession of a Marabout +named Mokhtar, and the national religion Mahometan. +There do not appear to be any Pagans or idolatrous +Africans now resident in Timbuctoo, but some half +century ago most of the Kissour Negroes, the native +Negroes of Timbuctoo, were Pagans. The present Sultan +is called Ahmed Ben Ahmed Lebbu Fullan, whose +authority is established over the two great cities of +Jinnee and Timbuctoo, and all the intervening and +neighbouring districts, including several cities of inferior +note. He is the son of the famous warrior Ahmed<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-192" id="V2-192"></a>[<a href="images/2-192.png">192</a>]</span> +Lebbu, who dethroned the native princes of the Ramee, +or those who "bend the bow." The usual residence of +the Sultan is now at Jinnee. The city is a place of +great sanctity, and no person has the privilege of smoking +in it—that is to say, defiling it, but the Touaricks, who +are there so overbearing and unmanageable, as to be +above the local laws. They are the cause of continual +disturbances at Timbuctoo; nevertheless, so powerful are +the Fullans, that they manage to keep the Touaricks in +subjection, as well as the native Negro tribes. There +are seven mosques, the minarets of some of which are as +large as those of Tripoli.</p> + +<p>There are several schools and a few learned doctors +amongst the priests. The houses are only one story +high, but some few have a room over a magazine; they +are built of stones and mortar, and some of wood or +straw. The streets are narrow, few of them admit of +the passage of two camels abreast. Several covered +bazaars are built for merchandize. There are no native +manufactures of consequence. Timbuctoo is properly a +commercial depôt or emporium. The principal medium +of exchange is salt, which is very inconvenient. The +grand desideratum of merchants is the acquisition and +accumulation of gold, but this is obtained only by a long +and wearying residence in Timbuctoo, and is very uncertain +in supply. The gold is brought from a considerable +distance south-west. Jinnee is a greater place of trade +than Timbuctoo. The neighbouring country is flat and +sandy, stretching in plains over the alluvial deposits of +the Niger. There are no fruit-trees or gardens, beyond +the growing of a few melons and vegetables; but trees +abound on the vast plains of Timbuctoo, and there is a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-193" id="V2-193"></a>[<a href="images/2-193.png">193</a>]</span> +great number of the Tholh, or gum-bearing acacia. The +communication between Jinnee and Timbuctoo is principally +by water, and with light boats the journey can be +accomplished in seven days, but the distance is a month by +land. The navigation of the Niger is extremely difficult, +and in the dry season the boats are continually grounding, +whilst in the wet season people are in constant dread +of being precipitated on the rocks. The boats have +no sails, and are pushed along by poles with great labour. +There is no water in the city: it is brought from pits +east and west, a quarter of a mile distant,—that from +the east being brackish, and that from the west sweet. +Water is sold in the streets of Timbuctoo, as in many +African cities. The Maroquine merchants live in style +and luxury at Timbuctoo, and tea, coffee, and sugar may +be obtained from them at a reasonable price. The +residence of an European at Timbuctoo may, perhaps, be +considered secure for a short time; but the grand difficulty +is to get there, and when you get there, to get safe +back again. These details are not very interesting, and +I should not have mentioned them, but for the general +anxiety there still exists to obtain correct and recent +information of this celebrated Nigritian city.</p> + +<p><i>1st February.</i>—The streets of Ghat begin to be +deserted. Touaricks are going, and gone, as well as +the various merchants from neighbouring countries. So +I walk with much freedom in the streets. Have not +been molested about religion for some time; but a man +said to me to day, "Unless you believe in Mahomet, you +will burn in the fire for ever!" Strange anomaly this in +the conduct of men! They deliver over their fellow-men +to everlasting torments, as if it was some slight<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-194" id="V2-194"></a>[<a href="images/2-194.png">194</a>]</span> +corporal castigation! . . . . Saw Hateetah. The +Consul is still at war with Haj Ibrahim; but he is cutting +his own throat, and not the merchant's, by his foolish +conduct. A low Ghat fellow came in, and finding me +writing, begins crying out:—"Oh, you are writing our +country! You are coming afterwards to destroy it! +Never was our country written before, and it shall not be +now!" I turned him out of doors. He then fetched +a mob of "lewd fellows of the baser sort," and began +wheying, whooing. Hateetah luckily came by at the +time, and belaboured them with his spear, and off they +ran, wheying whooing. Went to see them pack up +senna, or rather change the sacks, those in which it had +been packed in Aheer being worn out. The sacks are +made of palm-leaves. Here were lying some hundred +large bundles. I am not surprised these simple people +wonder what we do with senna, and are the more surprised +when I tell them it is for medicine. Medicine +they take little of; and then they have no conception of +the millions of Christians in Europe, thinking we are so +many islanders squatting upon the oases of the watery +ocean. The senna leaves, on account of the late rains, +are finer and broader than usual: they are very large, +and, except the edges, of a dark purple hue. There is a +good deal of small wood (stalks of the plant), and here +and there a few yellow flowers, besides a quantity of +dust and dirt mixed up with the leaves.</p> + +<p>Several detachments of the return Soudan caravan +left to-day. Went to see them off. It was amusing to +be present at the preparations for departing. Some just +starting, some packing up, others loading, others weighing +the camels' burdens, others saluting their friends, all in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-195" id="V2-195"></a>[<a href="images/2-195.png">195</a>]</span> +busy and distracting confusion. Strings of camels were +in advance, with their heads towards Berkat. I sighed +with regret. I wished to follow . . . . The +camels are tied one after another, held together by +strings in their nose, and they are not allowed to graze +during the march, like the camels of Arabs. This is an +advantage to the traveller, for much time is lost by the +camels cropping herbage on the way. The files of +camels are twenty and thirty in number, and sometimes +these files are double. I imagine in mountainous districts +they are untied, otherwise one camel slipping or +falling, would draw another after it, and, so the whole +line would be thrown in confusion. In the palms +noticed two small birds, white bodies, head and wings +black. With the exception of the diminutive singing +sparrow, and a few crows, these are all the birds I have +seen in the oasis. Saw several Aheer Touaricks just +arrived, and found them tall, well-made, comparatively +fair, and fine-featured; nothing of the Negro character +about them. All extremely civil to me; and I certainly +like them as well, if not better, than the ordinary run of +Ghat Touaricks. These Aheer Touaricks must be one +of the finest races of men in Central Africa.</p> + +<p>Went as usual to spend the evening with Haj Ibrahim. +Had not sat down many minutes before a thundering +knocking was heard at the outer door. An Arab youth +called out, "Who's there?" and "Don't open," to the +slave that had the charge of the court-yard door. The +knocking increased in fury, the tumult of voices without +being terrific; and Haj Ibrahim, at last, recognizing the +party, and yielding to their violence, said "Open." As +soon as the door was thrown back, in poured a host of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-196" id="V2-196"></a>[<a href="images/2-196.png">196</a>]</span> +Touaricks, like the opening of a deluging sluice, all belonging +to Berka, headed by their acting chief, the +redoubtable Giant! Their first object was to abuse +roundly the Arab youth who had called out, "Don't +open." The merchants of Ghadames and Tripoli try to +shut out the Touaricks as much as possible all times of +the day, and especially just at supper-time, for this is the +hour when the Touaricks prowl about for their evening +meal, like famished evening wolves, seeking whom and +what they can devour. Prowling for food is an absolute +necessity with them, for generally they have no food; +they bring only a very small quantity from their native +districts, when they leave to spend some weeks at the +Souk. This foraging party therefore came in for supper. +Haj Ibrahim tried to work up his courage into rage; but +it was useless, for his struggling ire was at once choked +and quelled by the accents of thunder which The Giant +belched out like old Ætna. The Giant opened fire upon +the trembling merchant, by asserting the safety and tranquillity +of the country: "There are no robbers or free-booters +here; you buy and sell, fill your bags with +money, and are in peace. Why, then, cannot we eat as +the price of our protection?" Resistance being very +madness, the supper which Haj Ibrahim had prepared +for himself, was brought out to them, the servant crying +out, not "Il pranzo è servito!" but, "This is all the +supper we have for ourselves!" And like a wise steward, +he kept a little back for his lord and master. After unbroken +silence, which lasted full ten minutes, when every +person seemed to be gasping for breath to speak, and +struggling with some terrible inward commotion of the +spirit, the supper-hunting Touaricks made a simultaneous<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-197" id="V2-197"></a>[<a href="images/2-197.png">197</a>]</span> +move towards the supper-bowl. About nine big brawny +fellows attacked the savoury cuscusou, for Haj Ibrahim +had the best kind of provisions brought from Tripoli. +The dainty merchant told me he could not eat what was +made in Ghat. Now, The Giant did not join the onslaught +on the merchant's supper, that did not beseem +his dignity as heir of the Sheikhdom of the venerable +Berka! The chief of the gang, on the principle of +delicacy and generosity, left the spoil to his men. The +Giant, like Neptune rising to quell the fury of the tempest, +sat reclining in dignity and authority, with a serene +brow, calmly looking on, and smoking his pipe. Not a +word was uttered, not a sound was heard, but the licking +up the food, and the smacking of the lips of these uncouth, +unbidden, uninvited guests. As soon as the +supper was swallowed up, (only a few minutes,) they +all arose, The Giant first rising, with unabashed effrontery, +and led the way out. In another moment they +were gone! and the door was shut. It was like some +broken and distempered slumber, and the lamps having +nearly burnt out, and all being dim and dark, rendered +the illusion complete. The quondam <i>protégé</i> of these +chiefs was too ill, too much upset, to speak. I bade him +good night, and returned home, half-admiring The Giant +and his troop, and abusing the foolish parsimony of the +merchant, who ought to have thrown a few lumps of +flesh to these hungry and wolfish sons of The Desert, and +satisfied them at once. One of the party was Hateetah's +brother; and Hateetah told me next day that he himself +sent them.</p> + +<p><i>2nd.</i>—Our departure is now finally fixed for to-morrow. +The weather is cool, but not so cold as on my<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-198" id="V2-198"></a>[<a href="images/2-198.png">198</a>]</span> +arrival. Within the last three weeks it has gradually +become warmer, and the spring enlivening warmth will +soon be succeeded by summer's burning reign. Took a +very pleasant walk round the Governor's palace, and +made a sketch of it, which is subjoined.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill2-06.jpg"><img src="images/ill2-06_th.jpg" alt="Governor's Palace, Ghat" title="Governor's Palace, Ghat" /></a></p> + +<p>Irrigation is the grand means of agricultural production +in Sahara. Without irrigation the oases would +be mere halting-places for caravans, and would afford but +a scanty supply for centres of human existence. But +irrigation has not only sustained and sustains the towns +and cities of the African Desert, but in Asia it has +always been the grand means of maintaining vast populations. +The Assyrians of ancient days became great +by irrigation. In the prophets we read, "The waters +made him (the Assyrian) great, the deep set him up on +high with her rivers running round about his plants, and +sent out her little rivers unto all the trees of the field. +Therefore his height was exalted above all the trees of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-199" id="V2-199"></a>[<a href="images/2-199.png">199</a>]</span> +the field, and his boughs were multiplied, and his branches +became long because of the multitude of waters, when +he shot forth. All the fowls of heaven made their nests +in his boughs, and under his branches did all the beasts of +the field bring forth their young, and under his shadow +dwelt all great nations. Thus was he fair in his greatness, +in the length of his branches: for his root was by great +waters." (Ezek. xxxi. 4-7.) The metaphors are extremely +explicit and beautiful, making water the source +of the Assyrian greatness. Nothing can show more +the power of water in the hot and dry climate of Syria. +But the prophet particularly alludes to the system of +irrigation, as practised on the banks of the Euphrates, +from which river the waters were conveyed in small +streamlets and conduits, "running round about the +plants" in the gardens, and sent out to a considerable +distance in little rills to all the trees of the field. The +immense parterres of Babylon, artificial gardens supported +by irrigation, have been celebrated by the historians +of antiquity. In Ghat, Ghadames, and other +oases of the Sahara, as well as the greater part of the +Tripoline coast, this system of irrigation is now practised +to its full extent, and water here shows a power of production +with which we are unacquainted in more humid +and temperate climes. At this time, the barley and +wheat are shooting up simply under the power of water, +which is conveyed to them by small ducts of earth, as +drawn up from the wells, every four or five days. A +bullock, or slave, draws up the water from the wells, +which are of very rude construction, but answer the +purpose. The water is then poured into a receiver of +earth or stone, from which it runs into the small conduits<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-200" id="V2-200"></a>[<a href="images/2-200.png">200</a>]</span> +of earth. Sometimes the main conduits are made of +lime-mortar, as in the island of Jerbah. The field to be +irrigated is divided into small squares or compartments, +sometimes oblong of about seven by five feet in size; +each is edged up with a small embankment of earth; +between each line of squares run parallel ducts or gutters +of earth, communicating with one large and common +conduit, which is usually placed, to run better, on the +highest part of the field, and as nearly as possible cutting +it into halves. Whilst the water is being drawn up, a +lad opens each compartment of the field with a hoe or +shovel-hoe, and lets the water into each square, shutting +it up again when the surface of the ground is merely +covered with water. I have seen them tread upon the +springing blades of grass when so irrigating them, to +give their roots more force and tenacity in the ground. +In Ghat this irrigation is repeated every five days, or +less, until the grain is in the ear and nearly ripe.</p> + +<p>The Medina Shereef, who expresses sincere sympathy +for my state of "judicial blindness," told me to-day that +I should not go down to the real <i>bonâ fide</i> pit or abode +of perdition, but to a dull shadowy place, "the region +of nothings," and I might get out again and ascend to +<i>Jennah</i>, (‮جنّة‬) "paradise;" and this, because I was near +to them (the Mussulmans), and read and wrote Arabic, +and was not afraid to write or repeat a verse of the +Koran. In our prophets we have, "Thus saith the +Lord, In the day when he went down to the grave I +caused a mourning." (Ezek. xxxi. 15.) "I made the +nations to shake at the sound of his fall, when I cast +him down to hell with them that descend into the pit."<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-201" id="V2-201"></a>[<a href="images/2-201.png">201</a>]</span> +(Id. 16.) "They also went down to hell with him." +(Id. 17.) In the first verse cited ‮שאלה‬ is translated +"grave," in the two latter verses "hell." But there is +no reason for the alteration of the term from "grave" to +"hell." The prophets I imagine, like most of us, had +extremely indistinct notions of the future world, and the +place of disembodied spirits, and were accustomed to use +the word ‮שאלה‬ (which ought invariably to be translated +grave, or hades, and not hell,) something in the same +manner as my friend the Shereef, for a dreary shadowy +region of imperfect beings or non-entities, a nether limbo +of nothings and vanities.</p> + +<p>Took a walk to see the merchants leaving for Soudan; +many of them were accompanied a short distance by +their friends. It is an affecting thing to part with people +who are about to enter upon forty days of Desert, without +a human habitation, (the route from this to Aheer.) +Saw Hateetah in my walk. He took a shumlah, or +girdle, by force from Haj Ibrahim. The Consul found +the auctioneer going round with it for sale, and inquiring +to whom it belonged, and hearing it was Haj Ibrahim's, +he took the sash from the auctioneer and told him to go +and acquaint the merchant with what he had done, and +which sash he had taken instead of the turban, offered +to Hateetah by Haj Ibrahim, but refused on account of +its little value. This is a nasty trick to say the least, +but as the Moorish auctioneer observed, "Such is the way +with the Touaricks." However, I am persuaded neither +Jabour, nor Khanouhen, would have stooped to such a +shabby dirty manœuvre. It seems besides, Haj Ibrahim +is giving great provocation to the chiefs who are appointed +his protectors at the Souk. They complain that,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-202" id="V2-202"></a>[<a href="images/2-202.png">202</a>]</span> +whilst he brings as many goods as twenty ordinary merchants, +he gives less than any one. So we must hear +both sides of the question. Saw to-day the Moorish +Kady of Ghat for the first time: I had not made his +acquaintance. His son I knew, who was very impertinent, +insisting that I should give him some tea because +he was the son of the Kady. This I refused to do, and +Khanouhen praised my conduct and said, I behaved +"like a Touarghee!" The Kady is an old gentleman, +but dresses superbly in a fine red turban and long flowing +bright-green coat, in full sacerdotal character, as the +triple-crowned Pope of Ghat. This morning I took +upon myself to scold severely some Ghadamsee merchants +for introducing the subject of religion before the +ignorant people of Ghat and Soudan. I found a group +of them in the streets when they wanted to speak of +religion. I asked them "If they would do so in Tripoli, +and if not, why here?" They understood the point of +censure and immediately left off. Some Arabs present, +said, "You are right, Yâkob." Vexed at my reproof, +they attacked me on the subject of slaves, asking me +why the English disapproved of slaves? I replied +sharply, "It is not our religion to buy and sell men, +though it may be your religion."</p> + +<p>At the Governor's I observed the style of cutting and +braiding fashionable young ladies' hair, in the example of +his daughters. The forehead is shaved high up, leaving, +however, one long curl or <i>with</i> of hair depending. This +curl is braided and hangs down gracefully over the forehead. +On each side of the head, over the ears, depend +three other separate curls or locks of hair, each double-braided. +Behind the head hang also two other longer<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-203" id="V2-203"></a>[<a href="images/2-203.png">203</a>]</span> +curls, and each double-braided. Between these curls, as +they detach themselves from the head, the cranium is +clean shaven, and the hair or tuft on the crown of the +head, whence the several curls depend, covers a very +small space. At the end of the braided curls is tied a +piece of coloured string or narrow ribbon, the same as is +done amongst our little dressy nymphs. The hair is +dressed with olive-oil or daubed over with semen, or +liquid butter. My old negress landlady is a hair-dresser +of the first style, and the fashionable negresses come to +have their woolly crispy locks dressed by her <i>secundum +artem</i> nearly every day. This hair-dressing takes place +on my terrace, and affords me a splendid field for +observation. I ought to have brought with me into The +Desert the book, "How to observe," in order to have +given a complete and satisfactory description of the +fashionable Libyo-Saharan hair-dressing. The old lady +sits down, spreading out her knees, and the young sable +belle throws herself flat at full length sprawling on the +terrace floor, putting her head into the lap of the arbitress +of The Desert toilette, her heels meanwhile kicking +up, and sometimes not very decently. The operation +then commences. The woolly locks, not more than three +inches in length, are gradually drawn up tight to the +crown of the head, and plaited in tiers in the shape of a +high ridge, whilst they are being rubbed over with liquid +butter. The lower circle of the cranium is left all +bare, not a curl depending, and is shaven quite clean. +But this is done previously, for my old negress does not +undertake the profession of shaver, with her other important +services. The hair, when fully dressed in this +style, assumes the shape of an oval crown, or the head<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-204" id="V2-204"></a>[<a href="images/2-204.png">204</a>]</span> +part of the helmet. Some negresses use false tails as +well as false locks, as our belles do, the long flowing +curls being preferred by the sooty Nigritian beauties, +in spite of such an ornament being unnatural to them. +These ladies, however, neither paint nor tattoo their faces, +and in general, painting with red and white is not used +by the Libyan and Oriental beauties. In Algeria, however, +some of the Mooresses have learnt to paint from +their new mistresses, as an acquirement of French +civilization in Africa. Dr. Shaw is quite right in his +new rendering of the passage referring to Jezebel, "And +she adjusted (or set off) her eyes with the powder of +lead-ore," (2 Kings ix. 30,) which in the common version +is, "And she painted her face," (or, in the margin, +"put her eyes in painting"). This painting of the eyelids +is a custom of great antiquity. It has the effect of +of giving the eye a peculiar prominency, enlarging its +apparent size, and adding to it a greater bewitching +force. The Touarick women, however, disdain the unnatural +adornment, and shame the unmanly conduct of +certain of the Saharan men who actually paint thus +their eyelids. It is a trite saying, that women are +coquettes all the world over. But if mothers will educate +their daughters so, it must be so. Besides cheerful young +ladies are frequently confounded with coquettes, which is +very unfair. Here, of course, there is coquetry as elsewhere. +Why not? I have two neighbours, Negresses, +and sisters, who get upon the house-top every morning, +wash their faces, and oil them to make them shine, as it +is said, "Man had given him oil to make his face to shine." +They then dress one another's hair, which usually occupies +them all the morning. The toilette here, as with<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-205" id="V2-205"></a>[<a href="images/2-205.png">205</a>]</span> +us, is a very serious affair. These sable beauties sometimes +play the coquette with me, which is innocent +enough. I asked my old negress about these and other +coloured residents, and found there were many families +of free negroes in Ghat. My friendly coquetting neighbours +have a brother who is a free Negro and trades +between Ghat and Soudan. A few of the free Negroes +are perhaps <i>bonâ fide</i> immigrants, but these are really +very limited. The dress of the women in this place is +extremely simple; it consists solely of a chemise and a +short-sleeved frock, with a barracan used as a shawl, and +thrown over the head and shoulders, when there is +wind or cold. The ladies have sandals, and some of +them shoes. Beads are esteemed only by Negresses. +Those particular beads made of a composition of clay at +Venice and Trieste, are now the fashion. The Touarick +ladies prefer pieces of coral and charms strung round +their neck in necklaces. The arms, wrists, and ancles +are hooped with wood-painted, and generally, metal +armlets, bracelets, and anclets. Some ladies hang a small +looking-glass about their necks, which is, of course in +frequent use. The Touarick women industriously weave +the woollen tobes, jibbahs, or frocks; they are very cheap, +warm, and comfortable in the water. But the Soudan +cottons are the great Saharan consumption. There are +also now introduced from Europe quantities of, I think, +what are called "Indians" in mercantile slang, or coarse +white cottons. The merchants call them "new". These +cottons are much liked in Morocco because they are +cheap and pleasant clothing in summer. Men and women +are clothed with them, and they are made up into every +kind of dress. These European cottons are supplanting<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-206" id="V2-206"></a>[<a href="images/2-206.png">206</a>]</span> +those of Soudan, which furnish work for thousands in +Central Africa. So the legitimate commerce, already so +limited, is diminishing instead of increasing. Poor +Africa! thrice-poor, and every way poor, gets nothing +at present by her intercourse with Europe, saving the +enslavement of her unhappy children, and the impoverishment +of her native manufactures. The Niger and +other <i>philanthropic</i> and commercial expeditions have +only laid bare her nakedness—they have not advanced +her one step in the scale of improvement. Connected +with Saharan female dress is naturally that of female +beauty. The <i>beau ideal</i> of an Arab beauty, according +to the Arabian poets Havivi and Montannibi, is, that +"Her person should be slender like the bending rush, or +taper lance of Yemen." This is also the <i>beau ideal</i> of female +beauty amongst Touaricks. I have seen no fat fed-up +women amongst Touaricks, like those in such esteem and +the <i>bon-ton</i> of the Moors. The <i>enbonpoint</i> of Mooresses +is well known, and beauty amongst them is literally by +the weight. Recent discoveries in Malta have made us +acquainted with this <i>enbonpoint</i>, as an essential feature +of female or other beauty in the most early times, say +as far back as the Carthaginian and other ancient settlers +in Malta. The rude statues lately dug up in that +island are all remarkable for obese processes from the +waist downwards.</p> + +<p>The taste of the Arabs has been greatly vitiated, and +the slight, spare, "bending rush" is often rejected for the +bridal beauty who requires a camel to carry her to the +house of her husband. The Moors resident in Ghat have +imported the vicious Moorish ideas, and the Negress +slaves are fattened for the market, and fetch higher +prices.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-207" id="V2-207"></a>[<a href="images/2-207.png">207</a>]</span></p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill2-07.jpg"><img src="images/ill2-07_th.jpg" alt="Dress of Touarick Men" title="Dress of Touarick Men" /></a></p> + +<p>The dress of Touarick men is more elaborate than +that of their women. The principal garment is the +Soudanic cotton frock, smock-frock, or blouse, sometimes +called tobe, with short and wide open sleeves, and wide +body reaching below the knee. Under this is at times +worn a small shirt. The pantaloons are also of the same +cotton, not very wide in the leggings, and scarcely +reaching to the ancles, and something in the Cossack +style. The frock is confined low round the waist with +the "leather girdle," and often by a sash in the style +of the Spaniards. There is generally attached to it a +good-sized red leather bag, not unlike an European +lady's work-bag, and this is made into various compartments, +one for tobacco, one for snuff, one for trona or +ghour nuts, another for striking-light matters, another +for needles and thread, another containing a little looking-glass, +&c., &c.; and I have seen a Touarghee fop +adjust his toilette with as much coquetry as the most<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-208" id="V2-208"></a>[<a href="images/2-208.png">208</a>]</span> +brilliant flirt,—indeed, the vanity of some of these +Targhee dandies surpasses all our notions of vanity in +European dress. Over the frock, on one of the +shoulders, is carried the barracan or hayk, which is +sometimes cotton, and white and blue-striped, or figured +in checks, of Timbuctoo manufacture, but generally a +plain woollen wrapper. The hayk is wound several +times round the body, and is the only real protection +the Touarick, or his wife, (for the women likewise wear +them,) has, from the cutting cold winds of The Sahara. +A red or white cap sometimes covers the naked shaved +head, but many do not wear a cap, as besides many do +not shave the head. But the grand distinguishing object +in the dress of Touarick men is the <i>Lithām</i> (‮اللثام‬), from +which article of dress the Touaricks have been called +ages ago by historian and tourists of The Desert "The +people of the Litham" (‮اهل اللثام‬). The litham is +nothing more than a thin wrapper, which is first wound +round the head, and then made to cover the whole of +the forehead and partially the eyes, and the lower part +of the face, especially the mouth. The mouth and the +eyes are the two grand objects to protect in The Desert, +and in Saharan travelling, equally against heat and cold, +and wind. A Saharan traveller, having his mouth well +covered with the litham, will go at least twenty-four +hours longer, fasting in abstinence, whilst his lips will +not be parched with thirst. The litham shelters the +eyes effectually from the hot sand grains, borne on the +deadly wing of the Simoom. A turban is mostly folded +round the head as a mark of orthodox Islamism. The +young beaux prefer the great red sash wound round the +head in shape of the turban.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-209" id="V2-209"></a>[<a href="images/2-209.png">209</a>]</span></p> + +<p>The Touarick, from his habit of wearing the litham, +does not like a beard, which, indeed, could rarely be +seen. As it grows, they pull it out, and so in time it +often disappears altogether. In the matter of beard, the +almost sacred ornament of the Moor and the Arab, the +Touarick is placed again in strong contrast with his +Mahometan neighbour. All wear a profusion of talismans +suspended round the neck, or sewn or stuck +about the head, like so many liberty or election cockades. +This is the usual style of the dress of Touaricks; and, +with dagger under the left arm, sword swung from the +back, and spear in the right hand, it looks sufficiently +novel and imposing, befitting the wild scenery and wild +sons of The Desert. Many, however, of the Touaricks +go almost naked, whilst the younger Sheikhs occasionally +indulge in the foreign fashions of the Moors of the +north, dressing very fantastically and elaborately.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill2-08.jpg"><img src="images/ill2-08_th.jpg" alt="Dress of Touarick Men showing Litham" title="Dress of Touarick Men showing Litham" /></a></p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-210" id="V2-210"></a>[<a href="images/2-210.png">210</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>3rd.</i>—Our departure from Ghat to Mourzuk, capital +of Fezzan, is now again finally fixed for the 5th of the +month, at least three weeks delayed beyond the time +first spoken of. European travellers in Sahara must +always reckon upon these wearying delays. A ghafalah +is just arrived from Fezzan, bringing dates, ghusub, and +wheat. This is a most seasonable relief, for absolutely +there is no food left for the poorer inhabitants of Ghat, +the provisions being carried away by various caravans +which have left us within a few days. I was myself +obliged to borrow from the Governor. Fortunately, +Fezzan is near, or the Souk of Ghat, with its thousand +slaves, would be often reduced to great extremities, there +being no capital invested in keeping up a supply of +provisions. Haj Ibrahim complains of Hateetah, and +considers him the worst of the Touarghee Sheikhs. The +merchant "has reason."</p> + +<p>Called to see Haj Ahmed. Met the Governor near +his gardens, and he invited me to go and look at them. +Was agreeably surprised to find a really splendid plantation +of date-palms, underneath and amidst which were +some of the choicest fruits, the fig, pomegranate, and +apricot. He has also planted some hedges of Indian +fig. The plantation might cover a dozen acres. It is +the work of eighteen years of the industrious Marabout, +but the palms are still in their youth, some even in their +childhood. It is important to mention, this beautiful +plantation was a waste of sand before the Governor took +it in hand, but the whole of it, by the assistance of +water and irrigation, his persevering industry has made +to bud and "blossom as the rose." Were the rest of the +wealthy residents to imitate the Marabout, they would<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-211" id="V2-211"></a>[<a href="images/2-211.png">211</a>]</span> +in a few years make Ghat a large and most lovely oasis +of Desert. Water is complained of as to supply, but +there is water enough to irrigate an oasis of five times +the present extent. So in Ghadames, so almost in every +Saharan oasis. The Governor encourages his sons to +industry, by giving each a plot of ground to cultivate +for himself. I saw a fine field belonging to one of his +sons, which has been under culture only three years. It +is sown with barley and wheat, and planted with rows +of sprig-palms, in the very childhood of growth; but, +by the time the sons of the Marabout are married, and +have young families, these green-shooting palm-sprigs +will be branching trees high up, bearing mature and delicious +fruit. Nature furnishes pretty and striking lessons +of industry, more affecting to the observant mind than +the lessons of the most eloquent moralist. There are +also shoots of the fig-tree and the pomegranate set +around a pool of crystal water, the embryo paradise of +the future. The son, whose garden this was, said to +me, in reply about the supply of water, "See, the water +comes from a spring near that hill of sand. I dug the +well, and God gave me the water. God does not give +water to all when they dig." I went forward, and saw +a refreshing spring bubbling out from beneath the sandy +bosom of The Desert.</p> + +<p>It is quite a pleasure now to walk about Ghat, the +noisy rabble is hushed, and the Touaricks, excepting +some chiefs of Berka, are all gone. The remaining +Ghadamsee merchants are as pleased as myself that the +Touaricks are gone. A strange hallucination got possession +of my brain to-day. "I determined I would +stop five years in Africa. I would visit all the great<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-212" id="V2-212"></a>[<a href="images/2-212.png">212</a>]</span> +kingdoms of Nigritia. I would write the history and +legends of the ten thousand tribes of Africa from their +own mouths. Then I would return with these spoils +and treasures of Africa to my fatherland." Vain +phantoms of ambition, only to fever my poor brain! +The first untoward event would lay me prostrate on the +burning plains, leaving my bones scattered and bleaching, +a monument to deter and dismay the succeeding wanderer +of The Desert. . . . . . . One of the occupations +of the poor in this country, by which they get a bit of +bread, is breaking date-stones, something analogous to +our stone-breakers on the high roads. The date-stones +are taken one by one, and put on a big round stone within +a circle of a roll of rags, and another stone is used to +crush or pound them. The pounded stones are sold to +fatten sheep and camels upon. The poor earn two karoobs +(twopence) a day in this manner, on which many are +obliged to live. Hard is the lot of the poor in every +clime!</p> + +<p>Afternoon late, I went to the range of Wareerat +mountains, to collect a few geological specimens, accompanied +by a slave. All our senses deceive us. The +world is a world of delusions and deceptions, and we +are dupers and dupes, as it happens. After continuing +a couple of hours, the base of the range, which seemed +always close upon us, still receded and was receding. +On the plains of Africa bounded by mountain ranges, +one is as much at a loss to measure distances as the +landsman at sea, when measuring the distance from his +ship to the rocks bounding the shore. My negro +Cicerone advised to beat a retreat, assuring me I should +not reach the chain by daylight. We looked round on<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-213" id="V2-213"></a>[<a href="images/2-213.png">213</a>]</span> +the city and found it fast diminishing and disappearing +in the distance, in the fleeting twilight of the evening. +We returned an hour after dark. On the north we +espied a few camels, a Fezzan provision caravan, winding +their slow length along like a line of little black dots in +the sand. My companion told me he was captured in +war. The people are always fighting; some to get +slaves, others from "a bad heart." He was afraid to go +back to his country for fear of being recaptured, resold, +and made again to recross the Desert. The domestic +and political history of Africa is an eternal cycle of +miseries and misfortunes; better that the African world +had not been created. My negro companion is called +Berka Ben-Omer, to distinguish him from another slave +of his master called Berka. Frequently both slaves and +free men have but one name, or one name is employed +in speaking of them. When there are many of the +same name in their circle of acquaintance or town, then +the names of the fathers are used. Joshua, in The +Scriptures, is usually distinguished in this way when his +name is mentioned, "To Joshua, son of Nun." (Joshua +ii. 23.) The <i>Ben</i>-Omer above, is the "son" of Omer.</p> + +<p>Spent the evening with Haj Ibrahim. Found Hateetah +with the merchant. They had made it up, and Hateetah +told me, in the morning, there was now peace +between him and Haj Ibrahim, since he, Hateetah, had +got the large red sash. The Sheikh related news from +Fezzan, respecting the ravages of the son of Abd El-Geleel +in Bornou, who was attacking the Bornouese caravans. +Hateetah then made a long speech, in which +he recommended me to the care of the merchant, calling +upon Haj Ibrahim "To swear by his head that he would<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-214" id="V2-214"></a>[<a href="images/2-214.png">214</a>]</span> +take as much care of me as of himself." This was +unnecessary, for Haj Ibrahim had shown himself more +substantially friendly to me than any other merchant at +Ghat. The Consul excused himself for not accompanying +me to Fezzan, by stating that his camels had +not come up from the country districts: this was a mere +excuse. But the road was perfectly safe, and we did +not require the protection of the Sheikh. To-day Hateetah +did not beg.</p> + +<p><i>4th.</i>—A fine morning, weather very warm and sultry. +The town is well nigh empty. When all the caravans +are gone, Ghat will sink into the stillness of death. +This is the case with all the Saharan towns, which are +<i>blad-es-souk</i>, "a mart of trade," taking place periodically. +The Governor finds the trade in slaves so thriving, slaves +having fetched a good price this year, that he is sending +this morning two of his sons to Soudan to purchase +slaves. Kandarka left also this morning. I went to +see him off. <i>Saif zain, wahad</i>, "A good sword, one!" +he exclaimed as usual. He then made me a long speech. +"Put yourself under my sword, no man can resist the +sword of Kandarka! (drawing his sword from the scabbard, +and making a cut with it.) Be my witnesses, ye +merchants of Ghadames! (some of whom were present.) +I will give you, Yâkob, a good camel, a mahry. Water +you will have first, sweet water. Wood there will be +always ready for you to make a fire and cook the cuscasou. +I am the right hand of En-Nour (Sultan of +Aheer). You will be my friend, Yâkob, before the +Sultan. In our towns, we have cheese, butter, wheat, +sheep, bullocks. You Christians have none like them. +Make haste back, make haste, and come to Aheer."<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-215" id="V2-215"></a>[<a href="images/2-215.png">215</a>]</span></p> + +<p>Hateetah seldom spoke to me of religion, but to-day +the Consul said, "What sort of Christian are you? I +hear there are as many Christians as there are sands" +(taking up a handful of sand).</p> + +<p><i>The Author.</i>—"And what sort of Islamites are you +Touaricks? for you are many, as many as we."</p> + +<p><i>The Consul.</i>—"We are of Sidi Malek:" (<i>i. e.</i>, Malekites +like Arabs).</p> + +<p>I asked then the Consul what was the meaning of +Targhee, who replied En-nas, or "people." Indeed, the +word Targhee seems to have the same signification as +Kabyle, that is, "tribe," or "nation," both words denoting +people of the same original stock.</p> + +<p><i>5th.</i>—The morning of our departure! . . . . . At +length comes the end—the end of all things, joys +or sorrows—even in The Desert, where delay and procrastination +are the dull and wearying gods of ceaseless +worship. Rose early to pack up, and pay take-leave +visits. Weather is mild; the caravan will move slowly on +account of the slaves; the journey is short; the route is +safe; all things promise a favourable end of my Saharan +tour. The mind looks with regret upon leaving places +become familiar, but rises buoyant at the thought of seeing +new sights and scenes. Called upon the Governor to +bid him adieu. His Excellency said, he should see me +at the moment of departing. Found him with some +people of Touat, who said:—"The English are very +devils; they have two eyes behind their heads, as well +as two before." I did not quite understand their allusion. +Called on Haj Ibrahim, who had been packing up +for three days past, and yet things were still in great +confusion. To my astonishment, I found the merchant<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-216" id="V2-216"></a>[<a href="images/2-216.png">216</a>]</span> +surrounded with a group of people in the greatest excitement, +the master-figure of the group being The +Giant Sheikh, foaming with rage, and threatening to cut +Haj Ibrahim's throat on the road, unless he made him +some sufficient present, in acknowledgment of his +authority as heir-apparent of the Sheikhdom of Berka. +The Ghatee merchants, all the most respectable of whom +were in this <i>mêlée</i>, kept screaming, and some of them +pulling hold of Haj Ibrahim, to give a trifle, (a couple of +dollars,) to The Giant, and get rid of him. Hateetah +and other Touaricks were also present. Meantime, The +Giant bullied, menaced, swore, and thundered things +horrible and unutterable . . . . . Amidst this +bedlam din, Haj Ibrahim at length got a hearing, and +mustered up courage enough to defend himself:—"You +call your's a peaceful country,—How? Is not this the +conduct of bandits? I know (recognize) no person but +Berka. Him I have given a present. What was demanded +I have given Berka. I will not now give more +presents, and not indeed by main force. It is robbery! +Go and take my camels." The Giant, who listened to +these few words, spoken distinctly and energetically, with +a brow overcast, like a storm-cloud charged with the +electric fire, and a bosom heaving and boiling with +wrath, got up from where he lay sprawling, ("many a +rood,") and very deliberately took hold of his broadsword +(I began to be alarmed), and with it fetched +Hateetah such a stroke on the back with its flat side, +as made him cry out with pain. Then addressing his +subordinate sternly and laconically, <i>Enker, heek</i><a name="FNa_2-24" id="FNa_2-24"></a><a href="#FoN_2-24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a>, "Get up<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-217" id="V2-217"></a>[<a href="images/2-217.png">217</a>]</span> +quick." he strode off a few paces. Hateetah instantly +followed, and the other Touaricks. Now turned round +The Giant, and said in Arabic:—"Allah Akbar, the +camels! Allah Akbar, the camels! Good, good! +Allah Akbar, the camels!" They went off (or +rather pretended to go) to seize the merchant's +camels. These gone, the merchants of Ghat set all +upon Haj Ibrahim, "What a fool you are! Why +not give the long fellow a couple of dollars? If you +won't, we shall give the Sheikh the money ourselves." +One of them turned to me, "Why, Christian, what is a +couple of dollars to Haj Ibrahim? That's the value?" +(putting his hand to his nose.) The reader may easily +guess how this stupid obstinacy of the merchant ended. +The Haj forked out, with a bad grace, and the money +was carried after The Giant, one of the Ghat merchants +adding two more dollars. I was pleased with this trait +of the Ghateen, who were determined we should not go +off in this uncomfortable plight. The Giant I did not +see again; I regretted to part with him in this manner. +Under his huge and unwieldy exterior he concealed the +most tender and generous disposition. His Giantship +never begged of me; and when I gave him a little +tobacco, he thanked me a thousand times. He was +always cheerful with, and had some joke for his friends. +After all, my plan is best: to make the necessary presents +at once, and voluntarily; to give all the Sheikhs +a trifle, and then you are at peace with all.</p> + +<p>About 2 o'clock in the afternoon, to our great satisfaction, +we got clear and clean off. Hateetah came out +to see me start, and walked half a mile with me on the +road. He was extremely kind. It is probable, he<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-218" id="V2-218"></a>[<a href="images/2-218.png">218</a>]</span> +begged of me so much, because his brothers and cousins +incited him, amongst whom I know he shared the presents +which he received. I now put my hand in my +pocket, and gave him all the money I had left, half a +dollar and a karoob! He affectionately shook me with +both hands. I then passed the Governor, who was +waiting for us. His Excellency shook hands very +friendly, and said, "And Ellah, Yâkob" (God be with +you, James!)</p> + +<p>During my fifty days' residence in Ghat, although I +received numberless petty insults, I kept out of all +squabbles, and made as few complaints as possible to +the authorities. In fact, I may safely say, and without +presumption on my part, if I could not live in peace +with these people a few weeks, no other European coming +after me could.</p> + +<p>It is now time to make a few observations upon the +general character of these Saharan inhabitants, and compare +their social state with that of ours in Europe.</p> + +<p>Crime against society, consists mainly in lying or +duplicity, and imposture, in thieving, in sensuality, and +in murder. Veracity, honesty, continence, and respect +for human life, distinguish a moral people. We have to +try the Saharan populations of Ghat and Ghadames by +these four cardinal points or principles, and compare +them with the nations of Europe. Whilst resident in +Ghadames, not one single case of cutting or maiming, or +manslaughter, occurred, nor did I hear of any in neighbouring +countries. Of course, I exclude altogether the +depredations of a nation or tribe of robbers, as well as all +the skirmishes between the Touaricks and the Shânbah, +which have nothing to do with the question of the social<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-219" id="V2-219"></a>[<a href="images/2-219.png">219</a>]</span> +condition of the Saharan towns that I visited. In +Ghat, three cases of cutting and wounding occurred, the +gashes on the arms received by two slaves from a Touarghee, +and the attack on the Ghadamsee trader whilst at +prayers, also by a Touarghee. These are the only cases +which occurred during my residence here, although a +mart or fair, and the rendezvous of tribes of people from +all parts of Central Africa and the Great Desert! . . . . . So +much for the sacredness of human life +among the barbarians of The Desert! . . . . . . With +respect to theft and thieving, I have already noticed +that thieving is only practised by the hungry and starved +slaves of these towns, that amongst the people of Ghadames, +as likewise amongst the Touaricks, theft is unknown +as a crime. The exceptional cases of theft which +are brought to notice can be easily traced to strangers. +The Touaricks certainly at times levy black-mail in open +Desert, but do not rob in the towns; and the black-mail +is not considered by themselves as theft, nor, indeed, is +it strictly such, being exacted by the Touaricks as transit +duties, or as presents for protection through their districts, +or as tribute, and under a variety of such reasons +and pretensions. What is legally fixed on the +Continent of Europe, is here left to the caprice and +greediness of the Sheikhs, and the liberality or stinginess +of the trader. As to incontinence, this is more a secret +crime. But the sexual habits of the Touaricks, and +their domestic amours, are purity itself, compared to +the sensuality which disfigures and saps the vitals of +society in all the southern nations of Europe. The hardships +of The Desert are the greatest safeguards against +indulgence in, or the pleasures of, an emasculating sen<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-220" id="V2-220"></a>[<a href="images/2-220.png">220</a>]</span>suality +amongst the Touaricks, whilst the ascetic habits +of the Maraboutish city of Ghadames sufficiently protect +that people from the general indulgence of libertinism, +and unnatural crimes. Intoxication, or habitual drunkenness, +is, of course, unknown in these Saharan regions. +An inebriated woman would be such a wonder as is +described in the Book of the Revelations. As to veracity, +I have told the reader, the Touarghee nation is a +"one-word" people. We cannot expect the same thing +from the commercial and make-money habits of the +Moors of Ghadames, but they rank much higher for +veracity than the Moors of The Coast, which latter have +the <i>superior</i> advantages of direct European contact. In +my estimate of Saharan populations, I have confined +myself to Ghat and Ghadames; the oases of Fezzan, and +the city of Mourzuk, have become too much vitiated by +contact with The Coast and the Turks for affording fair +specimens of Saharan tribes. Let us then compare what +has been said to those hideous scenes of crime, of immodesty, +and drunkenness, which abound in the great +cities of Europe—the ever-present, ever-during stigma +on our boasted civilization!—and ask the paradoxical +question, What do we gain by European and Christian +civilization? We have Chambers of Legislature, infallible +and omnipotent Parliaments, princes full of the +enlightenment of the age, and reigning by divine right, +or the sovereignty of the people, or what not;—we have +hierarchies of priests and ministers of religion, we have +a Divine revelation;—we have philosophers, poets, and +rhetoricians, all enforcing the sublime morals of the age, +with reason or fancy and the attractions of the most +cultivated intellect;—we have science exhausting nature<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-221" id="V2-221"></a>[<a href="images/2-221.png">221</a>]</span> +by its discoveries;—we have our fine arts, and the arts to +humanize and exalt the characters of men;—we have our +benevolent, philanthropic, and scientific societies;—we +profess to govern the destinies of the world, to direct +the intellect of all nations, and to advance the being of +man to the enjoyment of immortal, imperishable life! ........ And +what else profess we not to do? +Now then, what are the results? We have the governing +authorities of a neighbouring people a mass of corruption<a name="FNa_2-25" id="FNa_2-25"></a><a href="#FoN_2-25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a>;—we +have the States of the North, so little +acquainted with the arts and justice of Government that +planned conspiracies and consequent massacres of whole +classes are now and then had recourse to, and found +requisite to preserve the apparent order of society. +Amongst ourselves, we Englishmen, have in all our great +cities, the frightful excrescences of crime, too frightful +for the pure and simple-minded Saharan tribes to look +upon. Our common habits of intoxication and intemperance, +and the intoxication of our women, would make +the Desert man or woman shrink away from us with +horror. Our country is filled with prisons, all well +tenanted, whilst the Desert cities have no one thing in +the shape or form of a prison. Then look at the Thuggism +and open-day assassinations of Ireland! In truth, +these Saharan malefactors are the veriest minutest fry of +offenders, the minnows and gudgeons of guilt compared<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-222" id="V2-222"></a>[<a href="images/2-222.png">222</a>]</span> +to the Irish Thuggee of Tipperary<a name="FNa_2-26" id="FNa_2-26"></a><a href="#FoN_2-26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a>. Poverty is the +giant of our United Kingdom, and the incarnate demon +of unhappy Ireland; and, with us, people die of starvation....... The +Desert, on the contrary, offers the +strongest parallel of contrast possible. Poverty there is, +but it is wealth compared to ours, and our wants, and no +person that I heard of, whilst resident in The Desert, died +of starvation. Of course, I omit the traffic in slaves, +which has nothing to do with the social state of the +Saharan towns I am describing. I omit likewise the +condition of the Arabs of the Tripoline mountains, and +the terrible exactions of the Turks upon them and other +provinces in Tripoli, which indeed are a part of the +European system I am now animadverting upon. But I +shall stop this tone and style of animadversion. I am +sick at heart with the parallel of contrasts between our +barbarian and civilized social systems: it is so unsatisfactory, +it is so disheartening, and takes away all hope,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-223" id="V2-223"></a>[<a href="images/2-223.png">223</a>]</span> +all faith in the progress and perfectibility of the human +race. One thing, however, is certain, that unless we can +bring our minds to form a just appreciation of ourselves, +unless we can learn to know ourselves, there is no hope, +no chance of advancing in our social and moral condition.</p> + +<p>Our slave caravan stretched across the plain or bed +of the Wady of Ghat eastwards, to the black range of +Wareerat, and turning round abruptly north by some +sand hills, we encamped after three hours. It is from +this place the Ghat townspeople fetch their wood. +The fire-wood is gathered from the lethel tree. Our +caravan consists of eleven camels, five merchants or proprietors, +some half dozen servants and about fifty or +sixty slaves. I have my nagah and Said, as before. +Nearly all the slaves are the property of Haj Ibrahim. +They are mostly young women and girls. There are a +few boys and three children. The poor things on +leaving Ghat, as is their wont on encountering The +Desert, got up a song in choruses, to give an impetus to +their feelings in starting. For myself, The Desert has +become my most familiar friend. I felt happy in again +spreading my pallet upon its naked bosom, by a shady +bush of the Lethel.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-24" id="FoN_2-24"></a><a href="#FNa_2-24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> ‮انكر هيك‬, the Touarghee language.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-25" id="FoN_2-25"></a><a href="#FNa_2-25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> As to what has taken place, and is happening by the introduction +of what is called <i>French</i> civilization into Africa (Algeria), and +how the morals of the people, natives and foreigners, are affected, +the things are too horrible to be here related. The annals of Norfolk +Island, and the Bagnes of Toulon, would be outraged by their +recital.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-26" id="FoN_2-26"></a><a href="#FNa_2-26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> I should be sorry to apply to a minister of any religion the +opprobrious epithet of a "Surpliced Ruffian." It would seem, +however, that Archdeacon Laffan aspires to the "bad eminence" +of the apologist of assassins. What would my readers say, were I +to report the Ministers of Islamism in The Desert to be the abettors +of assassination? Or what would they have said, if a priest had +been found to be the secret or open instigator of the <i>quasi</i>-bandit +Ouweek, in his violent threat to murder me, because I chanced to +be a Christian, or rather, a non-believer in Mahomet. We should +not have found words sufficiently strong to express our reprobation +of such priestly intolerance and wickedness. And yet Ouweek +would have only acted out his religious principles in their stern +literality,—‮قتلواهم‬—"<i>kill them</i>" (the infidels), as frequently +written in the inexorable Koran; whilst Archdeacon Laffan's +preaching is diametrically opposed to his religion, whose holy and +clement command contrariwise is,—"to forgive our enemies, and +bless those who curse us."</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-224" id="V2-224"></a>[<a href="images/2-224.png">224</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII.</h2> + +<h3>FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Slaves very sensible to the Cold.—Well of Tasellam.—Saharan +Huntsman.—Atmospheric Phenomenon.—My Adventure at the Palace +of Demons.—Denham and Oudney's Account of the Kesar +Jenoun.—The Genii of Mussulmans.—Desert Pandemonium +compared with that of Milton.—Coasting the Range of Wareerat +or Taseely.—Soudan Species of Sheep.—Soudan Parrot.—The +Lethel Tree.—The Tholh, or Gum-Arabic Tree.—Falling of +Rain in The Desert.—Oasis of Serdalas.—My Companions of +Travel.—Weather Hot and Sultry.—The Slaves bear up well.—The +Ship of The Desert.—Extremes of Cold and Heat.—Mausoleum +of Sidi Bou Salah.—Serdalas, a neglected Oasis.—The +Sybil of The Sahara.—Death and Burial of two Female Slaves.—Dirge +on the Death of one of them, whipped at the point of +Death.—Power of the Sun in Sahara.—Desert Mosques.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>6th.</i>—<span class="smcap">Rose</span> early, but did not start until the sun was +well up, on account of the slaves. These Nigritian +people cannot bear the cold. Our northern cold affects +them more than their southern heat does us. Heat can be +borne better than cold in Saharan travelling. Am glad +to see that Haj Ibrahim has a large tent pitched for the +greater part of the miserable shivering things. It is +made of rough tanned bullock skins, and holds the heat +like a shut-up furnace. These tents are brought from +Soudan, and after being used for slaves journeying over +Sahara, are sold for so much leather. Touaricks also use +them in their districts. In truth, Haj Ibrahim treats +his slaves as much like a gentlemanly Moor as he well +can or could do, all their wants being attended to, and +no freedoms being taken with the young women. Their<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-225" id="V2-225"></a>[<a href="images/2-225.png">225</a>]</span> +greatest hardship is to walk, but after a night's rest, they +partially recover. I may add, this is the best equipped +caravan I could travel with, and, perhaps, hardly a fair +specimen to judge of for ordinary slave-caravans. We +continued our route along the chain of mountains to the +east, having, on our left, a corresponding ridge of low +sand hills. During the day, we traversed a broad deep +valley or wady, and, indeed, water had covered a good +part of it in the early winter of this year. Here was +abundant herbage, and camels feeding belonging to the +people of Ghat. There is also a well of water out of +the line of route on the left, about one and a half days' +from Ghat, but having a good supply, it was not necessary +to seek it. It is called <i>Tăsellam</i>. Here we met a +hunter,—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i10">"An African</span> +<span class="i0">That traverses our vast Numidian deserts</span> +<span class="i0">In quest of prey, and lives upon his bow</span> +<span class="i0">Coarse are his meals, the fortune of his chase;</span> +<span class="i0">He toils all day, and at th' approach of night,</span> +<span class="i0">On the first friendly bank he throws him down,</span> +<span class="i0">Or rests his head upon a rock till morn;</span> +<span class="i0">Then rises fresh, pursues his wonted game,</span> +<span class="i0">And if the following day he chance to find</span> +<span class="i0">A new repast, or an untasted spring,</span> +<span class="i0">Blesses his stars and thinks it a luxury."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>The Targhee huntsman was clothed in skins, and was +a genuine type of the hardships of open Desert life. +The objects of his chase were gazelles and ostriches, and +the aoudad. His weapons were small spears and a matchlock. +A most sorry-looking greyhound slunk along at +his heels, the very personification of ravening hunger.</p> + +<p><i>Writer.</i>—"Targhee, where are you going?"</p> + +<p><i>Huntsman.</i>—"I don't know."<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-226" id="V2-226"></a>[<a href="images/2-226.png">226</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>Writer.</i>—"Where have you been?"</p> + +<p><i>Huntsman.</i>—"Over the sand." (Pointing west.)</p> + +<p><i>Writer.</i>—"Have you caught anything?"</p> + +<p><i>Huntsman.</i>—"Nothing."</p> + +<p><i>Writer.</i>—"When do you drink?"</p> + +<p><i>Huntsman.</i>—"Now and then."</p> + +<p><i>Writer.</i>—"Have you anything to eat?"</p> + +<p><i>Huntsman.</i>—"Nothing."</p> + +<p><i>Writer.</i>—"When did you eat anything last?"</p> + +<p><i>Huntsman.</i>—"I forget."</p> + +<p>I threw him down from my camel some barley-bread +and dates. He picked them up, but said nothing, and +went his way. Turning round to look after him, I saw +him cut across to the mountains on the east.</p> + +<p>Observed to-day some curious atmospheric phenomena. +A light vapour, the lightest, airiest of the airiest, swept +gently along the surface of the ground, but as if unimpelled +by any secret influence. It was also dead calm. +The vapour continued to sweep before us, till at length it +suddenly rose up to the sky in the form of a spiral +column of air, and then disappeared. In this valley, +which widened as we advanced, we once or twice saw the +mirage running along the ground like prostrate columns +of foam, striking out sparklings of light.</p> + +<p>Towards noon we had a full view of the celebrated +Kesar Jenoun—"Palace of Demons," to the west; in +coming to Ghat we had it on the east. As we neared it, +Haj Ibrahim said to me, "Well, Yâkob, we must go +and see the great Palace of Demons. We must see +what it is, and you must write all about it."</p> + +<p>At 4 o'clock <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, we encamped right opposite its +eastern side. On encamping, I looked about for Haj<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-227" id="V2-227"></a>[<a href="images/2-227.png">227</a>]</span> +Ibrahim, and found him busy unpacking. I then very +carelessly determined to start myself alone. I thought +it, however, a good opportunity to show the people of +the caravan that I was not influenced by superstitious +fears, and that, as an Englishman and a Christian, I +cared little about their dreaded Palace of Demons. Haj +Omer, the merchant's servant, called out after me on +starting, "Be off, make haste, you'll be back by sunset." +I equipped myself with the spear and dagger of +Shafou, and started off at a good pace, making a straight +and direct cut to The Palace. I scarcely noticed anything +on the road going along, staring with full face at +the Huge Block of Mountain. But, on getting out of +sight of the encampment, and, under the shadow of +this "great rock in a weary land," I unaccountably felt +the influence of those very superstitious fears and terrors +which I was so anxious to combat in my fellow-travellers. +I then soliloquized to myself, "What a poor creature is +man, how weak, how miserable! how exposed to every +whim and folly which a credulous mind can invent!" +Thus soliloquizing, I got within the mysterious precincts +of the Great Mountain Rock, in the course of three-quarters +of an hour. I had, however, still more fear of +the living than the dead, and said to myself mechanically +aloud, "Man has more to fear from the living than +the dead;" and I looked around anxiously this way, and +that way, and every way, if perchance there might lurk, +as the demon of the mountain, some stray bandit. Reassuring +myself, my thoughts turned on science. I +wished to astonish the boobies of the British Museum by +geological specimens from the far-famed palace of mortal +and immortal spirits, built in the heart of The Great<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-228" id="V2-228"></a>[<a href="images/2-228.png">228</a>]</span> +Desert. I picked up various pieces of stone which lay +scattered at its rocky base. But I found nothing but +calcareous marl, or basaltic chippings and crumblings, +some of cream colour, some lavender, some purple, some +red-brown, some nearly black. This done, as connoisseur +of geology, I stood stock still and gaped open-mouthed +like an idiot, at the huge pyramidal ribs of The Rock. +Then I bethought me I would ascend some of these offshoots +of the mountain, and take a quiet seat of +observation from off one of the battlemental turrets which +capped its many-towered heights, over all the subjected +desert and lesser hills and rocks below. But I soon +changed my mind; not recognizing any decided advantage +in scrambling up—God knows where—over heaps +upon heaps of crumbling falling rock. I now turned my +back to the Demons' Cavern, without having had the +honour or pleasure of making a single acquaintance +amongst these demi-immortals, much to my regret, and +my face was towards the encampment. At least I +thought so. I saw at once that the king of day was +fast going down to sup on the other side of The Palace, +or perhaps with the Demons, and I must hasten back to +my supper. I started on my return as carelessly as I +came, with this foolish difference, that, although not +remarking a single part of my way hither, I fancied I +would take a shorter cut back to supper, beginning to +feel hungry, having eaten nothing since morning. In +fact, I soon got into another track upon this absurd +idea of shortening the route. I recommend my successors +in Saharan travel, never to try short-cuts in unknown +places. In ten minutes I made sure of my +encampment, and ran right up to some mounds of sand<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-229" id="V2-229"></a>[<a href="images/2-229.png">229</a>]</span> +topped with bushes, where I expected to find Said with +the supper already cooked, and the nagah lying snugly +by, eating her dates and barley. But that was not the +encampment. The sun was now gone, and following +hard upon his heels were lurid fleecy clouds of red, the +last attendants of his daily march through the desert +heavens. I now looked a little farther, and said to +myself, "There they are!" I went to "There they +are," and found no encampment. I continued still +farther, and said, "Ah, there they are!" and went to +"Ah, there they are!" and found no encampment. I +now made a turn to the south, and saw them quietly +encamped under "various mounds," and went to "various +mounds," but the encampment sunk under the earth, for +they "were not." All was right, and "never mind," I +should soon see their fires, and was extremely glad to +notice all the light of day quenched in the paling light +of a rising crescent, some five or six days old. I thus +continued cheerfully my search another quarter of an +hour, when all at once, as if struck by an electric shock, +it flashed across my mind, "Peradventure, I might be +lost for the night!" and be obliged to make my bed in +Open Desert. I have seen in my life-time people strike +a dead wall, as a convenient butt against which to vent +their ill-disguised rage. I now must have a victim for +my vexation. It was not wanting. I felt something +heavy and dragging in my pocket. The half hour's +running about had reminded me of some until now unnoticed +heavy weight, and this was the stones, and these +were my grand specimens of geology. I quietly took +out all the stones from my pocket, and threw them deliberately +but savagely away, certainly a very proper<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-230" id="V2-230"></a>[<a href="images/2-230.png">230</a>]</span> +punishment for leading me such "a wild-goose chase," +such "a dance," over The Desert. In my wrath I was +not disheartened. Now, as it was dark, I began to +ascend the highest mounds of Desert, from, whose top I +might descry the fires of our encampment. I wandered +round and round, and on, now over, sand and sand-hills, +now climbed up trees, now upon eminences of sand or +earth-banks, seeking the highest mounds of the vast +plain, to see if any lights were visible, looking earnestly +every way. No light showed itself as a beacon to the +lost Desert traveller—no sound saluted his ear with the +welcome cry, "Here we are!" Felt so weary that I was +now obliged to lie down to rest a little. But soon refreshed, +I determined to return to The Palace, and find +the place which I had visited. The fear and thought of +being lost in The Desert now mastered every other consideration, +and I started unappalled to the Black Rock, +without ever thinking of the myriads of spirits which at +the time were keeping their midnight revels within its +mysterious caverns. Got near The Rock, but I saw no +place which I had seen before. The mountain had now +at night assumed other shapes, other forms, other colours. +Probably the demons were dancing all over it, or fluttering +round it like clouds of bats and crows, preventing +me from seeing its real shape and proportions. Be it as +it may, I could not recognize the place which I had so +recently visited. I now climbed up some detached pieces +of rock to look for lights. I sprang up with the elastic +step of the roe, over huge broken fragments of rock, +aided by a sort of supernatural strength, the stones +rolling down and smashing with strange noises as I was +springing over them. From these crumbling heights I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-231" id="V2-231"></a>[<a href="images/2-231.png">231</a>]</span> +looked eastward, and every way, but no friendly light, +watch-fire, or supper-fire, was visible. I descended, +much heated, in a flowing perspiration, feeling also the +cold chill of the higher atmosphere. I began to have +thirst, the worst enemy of the Saharan traveller, and +fatigue was violently attacking me. I considered (which +afterwards I found quite correct) I had got too far +north. I could not recognize at all the processes of +detached rock over which I had been scrambling. I +must be several miles too high up. I went down along +the sides of the Immense Rock, looking at every new +shape it assumed to find the place where so quietly I +picked up the stones and geologized a few hours before. +All was vain. Fatigue was overpowering me, and my +senses began to reel like a drunken man. Now was the +time to see the visions and mysteries of this dread +abode, and unconsciously to utter sounds of unknown +tongues. Now, indeed, I fancied I heard people call +me; now I saw lights; now I saw a camel with a person +mounted in search of me, to whom I called. And, what +is strange, these sights and sounds were all about the +natural and not the supernatural. For instance, I did +not see the visage of a grinning goblin just within a little +chink of The Rock, as I ought to have seen. I did <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'not not'">not</ins> +see "faëry elves" dancing in the moonlit beams, as I +ought to have seen. Then boldly I took a direct course +from the mountain over the plain, believing I should +intercept our encampment. I continued this line for two +hours, or not quite so much, but I found myself a long way +east over the plain, where was neither camel, nor encampment, +nor object, nor light, nor any moving thing. +I then proceeded north, thinking I had got too far south<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-232" id="V2-232"></a>[<a href="images/2-232.png">232</a>]</span> +again. Here I found a group of sand-hills, a new region, +in which I painfully wandered and wandered up +and down. I knew the encampment could not be here. +To get clear of this horrible predicament, I made another +set at the Palace Rock, as if to implore the mercy +and forgiveness of the Genii. In an hour I found myself +again under its dark shadows. I walked up and down +by its doleful dismal sides, thinking if any people were +sent in pursuit of me I might find them. All was the +silence of the dead—no form flitted by except those +which filled my disturbed imagination. I once more returned +eastward to the plain, but my head was now +swimming, my legs shrank from under me, and I fell +exhausted upon the sand. There I lay some time to +rest. My brain, hot and bewildered, was crowded with +all sorts of fancies, but my courage did not sink. I was +seeing every moment people in pursuit of me. I heard +them repeatedly call "Yâkob." Somewhat composed, +I determined upon giving up the search of the encampment +till day-light, and went about to find a tree under which +to sleep, if I could. I went to one, but did not like it, +being low and straggling on the ground, exposed to the +first chance intruder. I sought another, which I had +before observed, for in this state I was forced to pick +out the objects of the plain. I found my tree, which in +passing before by it I thought would make me a good +bed. I could not find the encampment, but the tree observed +before, I could find. It was placed on a very high +mound of earth, which was covered with a large bushy +lethel-tree. Happy tree! I have always loved thy name +since. Under this I crept, but finding the top of the mound +of a sugar-loaf form, I scooped out on its sides, digging<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-233" id="V2-233"></a>[<a href="images/2-233.png">233</a>]</span> +away with my hands earth and dried leaves, a long narrow +cell, literally a grave, determining, if I should perish +hereabouts, this should be my grave. I found it very +snug, for the wind now got up east, and moaned in the +lethel-tree above my head. I drove the spear in the +earth, near "the bolster," and took off the dagger from +my arm. Had on my cloak, which I rolled fast round +me, and got warm.</p> + +<p>The midnight wind increased its doleful notes and +heavy moans. Now a gruff piping of a cracked barrelled +organ, and now, a wild shriek of one crying in +distress.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Mournfully! Oh! mournfully,</span> +<span class="ihalf">This midnight wind doth sigh,</span> +<span class="i0">Like some sweet plaintive melody,</span> +<span class="ihalf">Of ages long gone by.</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"It speaks a tale of other years—</span> +<span class="ihalf">Of hopes that bloomed to die—</span> +<span class="i0">Of sunny smiles that set in tears,</span> +<span class="ihalf">And loves that mouldering lie!</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Mournfully! Oh! mournfully,</span> +<span class="ihalf">This midnight wind doth moan;</span> +<span class="i0">It stirs some chord of memory,</span> +<span class="ihalf">In each dull heavy tone.</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The voices of the much-loved dead,</span> +<span class="ihalf">Seen floating thereupon—</span> +<span class="i0">All, all my fond heart cherished</span> +<span class="ihalf">Ere death had made it lone."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>My first object was to lie and rest my senses, so that +I should recover a little of my bodily strength, as well +as have my thoughts about me. Of wild beasts I could +not be afraid; I knew there were none. Of the wilder +animals still, the Desert bandits, I also had every reason<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-234" id="V2-234"></a>[<a href="images/2-234.png">234</a>]</span> +to believe there were none. But, from my elevated +position, I could see their approach, or that of friends, +nearly all around me. My only fear was to perish of +thirst, for it attacked me now severely. Thus I lay for +an hour or so, and then got up to watch the objects of +Desert. All things were deformed in the shadowy +moonlight, and most things looked double with the reeling +of my poor senses. Several times I imagined I saw +a camel coming, actually passing by a few paces from +the base of the mound. Frightened at these illusions +of the brain, I determined to try to sleep; my thirst +still increased and prevented me. As fatigue left me, +my head became clearer, and more serious thoughts +occupied the mind. The moon, however, I watched, +wheeling her "pale course," for I knew she finished now +her shadowy reign a few hours before morning. It is +impossible to give any outline of the thoughts which now +rapidly and in wild succession passed my mind: suffice +to say, I committed my spirit to the Creator who gave +it. I repeated mechanically to myself aloud, "Weeping +may endure for the night, but joy cometh in the morning." +I now took the bold resolution to return to Ghat, +not wasting my strength in the morning, after having +made a short search in The Desert. It was the only +chance of saving my life, if I could not at once find the +encampment. This resolution kept up the strength of +my mind, and prevented me from sinking into despair. +I had nothing to eat, nor drink, but I might reach Ghat +in the evening of the second day, or if strong enough, I +might get back in one long day. I knew the route +along the line of Wareerat, and could not possibly lose +myself when I was only to pursue the camel-track at<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-235" id="V2-235"></a>[<a href="images/2-235.png">235</a>]</span> +the base of this mountain range. The only difficulty +was, lest I should turn to the right and get entangled +amongst the sand-hills and dwarf wood, before I reached +the turning of the road which would conduct me direct +to Ghat. Things which have made an impression in +childhood, the soonest recur to the mind in these distressing +cases. I thought of poor Hagar with her +Ishmael, exposed to perish with thirst in The Desert: +it was exactly my case, whilst dim vistas of childhood +now filled up the chasms of opening memory. Byron's +dying gladiator, in the last struggles of death, saw the +green banks of the Rhine, the flowery scenes of his +childhood's days, and, amid the horrid din of the Roman +amphitheatre, heard the innocent shouts of his little +playmates. I was now suffering a dreadful thirst, and +might perish unless the same Providence directed me to +the well, or the encampment, as guided the wretched +handmaiden of Sarah.</p> + +<p>Within seven or eight miles from the place where I +now lay, I recollected there was the well Tasellam, under +the shadow of The Rock. But how to find it, when I +could not find the encampment lying still nearer me! +Then came lesser thoughts and vexations. What was I +to do in Ghat? How get back even if I escaped with +my life in my teeth to the oasis? And would not the +first thing, on my escape, be an attack of fever? Then +recurred to me the words of my friend Fletcher, "Expose +yourself to no unnecessary risks." The strongest self-condemnation +stung me, I was vexed at my extreme +folly. Shall I add, that my thoughts wandered far over +The Desert, skimmed over the surge of the Mediterranean, +and ascended on the wing of the east wind,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-236" id="V2-236"></a>[<a href="images/2-236.png">236</a>]</span> +now cooling my burning forehead, and sought some sad +solace in dear objects of my fatherland. Oh! the heart +shrinks from revealing to the world its secret thoughts, +its sorrowful regrets, its bitter self-reproaches! I must +be silent of the rest. I now got up, sleep I could not. +I was rejoiced to see a blacker shade thrown upon all +night-visible things. The moon had performed her nocturnal +duty, submissive and obedient to the law imposed +upon her by universal nature, and had also sunk back, +like the sun, below the Giant Demon Rock. I then lay +down again, and just before day, after a few moments +of broken sleep, for I even slept and forgot my perilous +plight, another time I came out of my living grave to +make observations. I looked at the eastern and western +horizons, and thought the eastern was the lighter of the +two, and there was the false dawn, or the dawn itself. +I had often watched these dawns in the route from +Tripoli to Ghadames, and grew wise in interpreting nocturnal +sights and signs by dire experience. I lay down +once more. Half an hour past, I came again and the +last time forth, for all the east was now inflamed with +the breaking out of day. The wheels of the sun's +chariot were of radiant light vermilion, the horses, of +darting orient flame, were being yoked on, and I stood +silent and sad to see "the great king of day" mount, +and commence his diurnal course. The Rock of Demons +repelled the light, and shrouded itself in deeper gloom, +as Desert morn advanced,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"And sow'd the earth with orient pearl;"</span> +</div></div> + +<p>for even in the dry Desert the morning sheds some +moisture, if not dew-drops. But on that Rock my<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-237" id="V2-237"></a>[<a href="images/2-237.png">237</a>]</span> +thoughts now concentrated—there I must soon return, +and revisit all its dark and rugged precincts. This +was my only chance to meet with any persons sent in +pursuit of me, if such there were. Began to see I had +wandered at least eight miles from the Huge Rock. I +threw my mantle over my shoulders, put the dagger +under my left arm, and took the lance in my right hand, +which felt heavy, for I had become weak and weary with +the past night's traverse of The Desert, and the painful +vigils afterwards. Descending from the mound to the +level of the plain, I looked back upon my bed and grave, +as if loth to leave it. As soon as there was light enough +to see objects somewhat distinctly, I prayed to God for +deliverance, and sallied forth with an unshrinking mind. +I was amazed at the illusions of The Desert, for it was +now day; the night might have its deceptions and phantasmagoria. +Every tuft of grass, every bush, every little +mound of earth, shaped itself into a camel, a man, a +sheep, a something living and moving. Before the day +was hardly begun, I sprang over again to the base of the +Rocky Palace, and saw now the detached pieces which +during the night I had ascended; but, for the life of me, +I could not find the place I visited first, and made geological +discoveries, never, never to be divulged. I continued +to pace up and down, north and south, for an +hour, until weariness began anew to attack me. I sighed +and said to myself aloud, "So soon tired!" I now returned +to the plain and made another straight cut. +Although the day was pretty well developed I was staggered +at the deceptions and phantasms of The Desert. +Every moment a camel loomed in sight, which was no +camel. There was also a hideous sameness! the rea<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-238" id="V2-238"></a>[<a href="images/2-238.png">238</a>]</span>son, +indeed, I was lost. For there were no distinguishing +marks, the mounds followed shrubs, the shrubs mounds, +then a little plain, then sand, then again the mounds and +shrubs, plain and sand, and always the same—an eternal +sameness! Now falling into the track of a caravan, I +was determined to pursue it, but it was with great difficulty +I could follow out the traces. For at long intervals the +hard ground received no impressions of men or camels' +feet, and I repeatedly lost the track, going a hundred or +more yards before I could get into it again, I continued +north, I saw the camels' feet, the sheep's feet, and the +prints of the camel-drivers, and sometimes I thought I +saw my own foot-marks. But the slaves! Where were +the impressions of the naked feet of some fifty slaves? +Now I groaned with the anguish of disappointment. I +must abandon the track in despair. I had already pursued +it painfully over sand and rock, and pebbles, and +shrubs, and every sort of Desert ground.</p> + +<p>All this was fast wasting away my little remaining +strength. I now mounted two very high mounds. Nothing +lived or moved but myself in the unbroken silence, +the undisturbed solitude! I observed my being too far +north, I must return south. Another camel appeared. +Yes, it was a small black bush, on the top of a little +hillock, shaping itself into a camel. Now a marvel—life +I was sure I saw. Two beautiful antelopes, light as +air, bounded by me with amazing agility, and were lost +in a moment amongst the shrubs and mounds of the +desert plain. I fell to musing on natural history, and +accounted for these gazelles by the presence of the well. +I then recollected the Targhee hunter. For an instant +I forgot my situation. But where was I? What was I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-239" id="V2-239"></a>[<a href="images/2-239.png">239</a>]</span> +doing? Was I to return to Ghat, or perish in The +Desert? My strength was failing me fast. I could not +pursue for ever this wild chase at the base of the +rock of the Jenoun. Under their baleful influence, I +shall wander and wander till I drop and perish! I must +make up my mind. The sun was not yet high up. I +could walk till noon on the journey back, and then sleep +a few hours and rest. The chill of the morning had +taken away my thirst. I wrapped a handkerchief over +my month, and took all the precaution I could against the +approaching thirst at noon-day. The lance was heavy. +Shall I throw it away? Could it not afford me a moment's +protection in meeting a single bandit, which class +of men mostly go alone? I keep my lance, but determine +to sit down to rest, previous to departing for Ghat. +I had often noticed the Arabs make a straight cut of +route by raising up the right arm, and putting under it +the left hand to support it, and then waving up and down +the right and left arms together. After my short rest, +I mimicked them. Mimickry is instinctive in us. I +singled out for myself a distant hill on the plain, lying +south in the route by which we had come here. Now +then, I took the first step towards Ghat. I continued +an hour, but oh! how weary I had become. Nature +seemed ready to sink, and I dropped suddenly on the +side of a small sand-mound....... What shall I +do?..... Shall I shed tears to relieve me?..... No, +I have long given up shedding tears. And, now! +I must keep up at the peril of my life. My heart +renews its courage. I again get up and begin to walk, +limping along. The small hill was before me—but +should I ever reach even that?..... My strength<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-240" id="V2-240"></a>[<a href="images/2-240.png">240</a>]</span> +of body was now gone, though the mind would not +yield...... In the last moment of human extremity ...... death +itself ..... comes deliverance! I +continue my route to Ghat. I have just strength to +raise my lance from the sand it pierces. I turn an +instant round to the right hand, and a white figure +passes by...... What is that? A friend or an +enemy? I continue on. Is this one of our people, or +of strangers? Shall I take him for a guide? Before I +can think of it, I espy something in advance. But I fear +an illusion, another deception. No! it is the head of a +camel! I spring on with my little remaining staggering +strength. To my joy unspeakable, I find myself +upon my own camel—my own little encampment! But +what a strange, a ludicrous scene! Here is poor Said +skulking by the supper of the previous night, still placed +on the fire, but which is gone out, his hands covering +his face, and his head hanging down, his eyes swollen +with tears but staring on the sand. The camel looks +restless about, and moans. I cry out—"Said!" He +starts up as if from a death-trance. He bellows out—"Aye +wah," and begins to sob aloud. The slaves, close +by, hear the noise and rush upon us. Where are the +people? I see only slaves. They are all gone towards +The Rock in pursuit of me. I now lie down and +they bring me something to drink<a name="FNa_2-27" id="FNa_2-27"></a><a href="#FoN_2-27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a>. I begin with a +little cold tea, and then eat a few dates. Afterwards, +we got the supper cooked the previous night heated. +About a quarter of an hour elapsed, when some of the +party returned, and then the rest from the pursuit.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-241" id="V2-241"></a>[<a href="images/2-241.png">241</a>]</span> +They had gone as soon as it was light this morning. +Last night some of them had been after me, and traced +my steps, wandering over the sand, round and round, till +they were nearly lost themselves, and got back to the +encampment with difficulty. As soon as I recovered a +little rest, our people came up to me and began to joke +and laugh. "Ten dollars," said one, "you must give +us for the trouble we have had in seeking for you." +Another said, "Lay down, Yâkob, sleep, we will wait till +noon before we start, to enable you to rest." It was +now 9, <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> But the greater number of our party +seemed confused, not knowing what to think or say. In +my absence, the general impression was that I had been +killed by the demons. Some, more sober, thought I +might have fallen into the hands of the Touaricks. Now +they said: "You were very foolish, you ought not, as a +Christian, to have presumed to go to the Palace of the +Demons, without a Mussulman, who could have the +meanwhile prayed to God to preserve you, and likewise +himself. The demons it is who have made you wander +all night through The Desert." The Medina Shereef, +who was of our party, boldly asserted, "The palace is +full of gold and diamonds. The Genii guard it. No +wonder then they were offended with your going, and +struck you as a madman so that you could not return." +Others asked me what I saw, but would not believe me +when I told them I saw nothing. So it came to pass, +that I nearly lost my life for the sake of confirming them +more strongly than ever in their superstitions. I, who +was to have taught them the folly of their fears by practical +and demonstrable defiance of the Genii confirmed +and sealed the power of the Genii over this Desert.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-242" id="V2-242"></a>[<a href="images/2-242.png">242</a>]</span> +But I must observe, my companions of travel did not +adopt the right method of rescuing me from the malignant +influence of the Genii. If they had sent a man in +each direction from the camp, I should soon have been +found. All going in one direction to The Mountain, +the other routes were entirely unexplored. If ever I +travel The Desert again, I shall provide myself with a +pocket-compass, and something still better, a small tin +or other box, of sufficient size to hold about a quarter of +a pound of crushed dates, or other concentrated food, +and a small bottle of spirits and water. The compass +to be always in my pocket, and the box always tied +round my neck night and day. In the case now narrated, +with this little stock of provisions I could have +got safe back to Ghat, and waited and rested on the road. +As it happened, there was every probability I should +have perished, if I had not found the encampment. I +continued for a full hour to drink ghusub-water and tea, +with a few dates. Then I ate more solid food, and took +coffee. My mind now rebounded, and the joy of deliverance +seemed as if it would counterbalance the dreadful +anxieties of the past night. What a pure pleasure I +now tasted a few moments! In a freak, I sat down and +sketched The Demons' Palace, laughing defiance upon it +all the while, with the wayward self-will and harmless +spite of a child, I took this vengeance on the unlucky +Black Rock.</p> + +<p>Now all was passed, I fancied I had merely experienced +a distempered dream and ugly vision of The +Desert. But when I rose to mount my camel, I found +it had been no vision—I was obliged to be lifted upon +my camel. Little did I think during the last (to me<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-243" id="V2-243"></a>[<a href="images/2-243.png">243</a>]</span> +ever memorable) night, while chasing wearily about the +dreary Desert, my own countrymen had before visited +the same identical Demons' Rock. I had heard, indeed, +some of the people say it had been "written by +Christians."</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill2-09.jpg"><img src="images/ill2-09_th.jpg" alt="The Demon's Palace" title="The Demon's Palace" /></a></p> + +<p>Let us turn now to Dr. Oudney, and hear what he +says about The Rock. On an excursion westward, from +Mourzuk to Ghat, they arrived near Ludinat, in the +valley of Serdalas or Sardalis. At a small conical hill +called Boukra, or "father of the foot," the people of +the caravans amused themselves by hopping over it; he +who does it best is considered least exhausted by the +journey. Near this are a few hills, among which a +serpent, as large as a camel, is said to reside. "The +Targhee is superstitious and credulous in the extreme: +every hill and cave has something fabulous connected +with it."</p> + +<p>Of the nature of the mountains hereabouts, the +Doctor says, "We entered (after leaving Serdalas) a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-244" id="V2-244"></a>[<a href="images/2-244.png">244</a>]</span> +narrow pass, with lofty rugged hills on each side; some +were peaked. The black colour of almost all, with +white streaks, gave them a sombre appearance. The +external surface of this sandstone soon acquires a shining +black, like basalt; so much so, that I have several times +been deceived, till I took up the specimen. The white +part is from a shining white aluminous schistus, that +separates into minute flakes like snow. The ground had +in many places the appearance of being covered with +snow."</p> + +<p>They now got on the plain of the Kesar Jenoun. +The hills of Tradart or Wareerat (apparently the same +word, but sometimes called Taseely) now appeared on +the east, and the high sands on the west. "The Tradart +(or Taseely) range," says Oudney, "has a most singular +appearance; there is more of the picturesque in this +than in any hills we have ever seen. Let any one +imagine ruinous cathedrals and castles; these we had in +every position, and of every form. (I myself often +thought of Windsor Castle, and the many hoary-headed +old castles of England.) It will not be astonishing that +an ignorant and superstitious people should associate +these with something supernatural. That is the fact; +some particular demon inhabits each. The cause of the +appearance is the geological structure. In the distance +there is a hill more picturesque and higher than the +others, called Gassur Janoun, or Devil's Castle. Between +it and the range there is a pass<a name="FNa_2-28" id="FNa_2-28"></a><a href="#FoN_2-28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> through which our +course lies. Hateetah dreads this hill, and has told me +many strange stories of wonderful sights having been<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-245" id="V2-245"></a>[<a href="images/2-245.png">245</a>]</span> +seen; these he firmly believes, and is struck with horror, +when we tell him we will visit it."</p> + +<p>Our countrymen kept the range of Wareerat the +whole day, and were amazed with the great variety of +forms. And when Clapperton thought he perceived the +smell of smoke the previous night, Hateetah immediately +said it was from the Devil's House. Another smaller +rock is called the Chest, under which a large sum of +money is said to have been deposited by an ancient +people who were giants of extraordinary stature. The +present race of Touaricks are, indeed, giants compared +to some of our pigmy European nations. Oudney made +an excursion to Janoun, the Kesar Jenoun. He says, +"Our servant Abdullah accompanied me. He kept at a +respectable distance behind. When near the hill, he +said, in a pitiful tone, 'There is no road up.' I told him +we would endeavour to find one. The ascent was exceedingly +difficult, and so strewed with stones, that we +were only able to ascend one of the eminences; there +we halted, and found it would be impossible to go +higher, as beyond where we were was a precipice." It +would appear the Doctor ascended one of the detached +blocks, which I ascended last night to observe the fires +of the encampment. Hateetah got alarmed at the departure +of Oudney, and Clapperton was not able to +allay his fears: he was only soothed when the Doctor +returned. The Sheikh was astonished, as much as our +people, when the Doctor said he had "seen nothing." +How like things happen! Even at the distance of +twenty long years, between my visit and the Doctor's, it +seems as if I was narrating one story. The Doctor was +also mainly incited by the same feeling as myself, to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-246" id="V2-246"></a>[<a href="images/2-246.png">246</a>]</span> +observe the geological structure. He observes, "The +geological structure is the same as the range (Wareerat) +that is near." To-day, after twenty years, and without +knowing what the Doctor had written, when I made the +same observation to our people, and tried to persuade +Haj Ibrahim, the most intelligent of my companions, +that there was nothing in this huge block different from +the mountain range near it, being of the same stone and +consistence, he replied drily, looking at both formations, +"Yâkob, it's not true. You see on the Kesar Jenoun +the very stones which the Demons have built up like the +Castle at Tripoli. When you will be blind, how can +you see? Why not believe in our Genii?"</p> + +<p>This leads me to notice the Mahometan belief in +Demons or Genii. According to the best commentators, +the term ‮جنّ‬ "<i>Jinn</i>" signifies a rational and +invisible being, whether angel or devil, or the intermediate +species called "genius" or "demon." As the word +Genii is used in the passage of the Koran, "Yet they +have set up the Genii as partners with God, although +he created them," (Surat VI.) some believe it refers +to "the angels whom the Pagan Arabs worshipped, and +others the devils, either because they became their servants, +by adoring idols at their instigation, or else +because, according to the Magian system, they looked +upon the devil as a sort of creator, making him the +author and principal of all evil, and God the author of +good only." We all know what a share the Genii have +in working the wonderful machinery of the Arabian +Nights Tales. The Touaricks give them still greater +powers, and make them a sort of delegated or deputy<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-247" id="V2-247"></a>[<a href="images/2-247.png">247</a>]</span> +creators, according to the Magian system, but do not +attribute to them the malevolent passions of an evil +being. They are probably influenced by the Koran in +this, which in the Surat, entitled "The Genii" (lxxii.) +makes a portion of them to have been converted by +hearing the reading of the Koran: "Say, it hath been +revealed unto me, that a company of Genii heard me +reading the Koran, and said, Verily we have heard an +admirable discourse, which directeth into the right institution; +wherefore we believe therein, and we will by no +means associate any other with our Lord." The ancient +Pagan Arabians also believed that the Genii haunted +desert places, and they frequently retired, under cover of +the evening's shade, to commune with these familiars of +The Desert.</p> + +<p>It is, perhaps, worth while to compare this Desert +Pandemonium, which the imagination of the Touaricks +has built up amongst their native hills, aided by the +light of the Koran, with what the creative mind of +Milton has constructed by the aid of the learning of his +times, and our own Scriptures. The difference is as +striking as contrast can present. But yet there are some +wonderful affinities, showing that mind is one and the +same amongst barbarian or civilized nations. Blackness +and darkness enter into the situation of both pandemoniums. +The Desert Pandemonium has its pillars and +turrets, its frieze, bas-reliefs, and cornices of ornamental +architecture, though all done by the hand of "geological +structure,"—its dark colours shining with "a glossy +scurf." The Desert Pandemonium is also alive with +myriads of spirits, peopling its subterranean vaults. +The Desert Pandemonium has finally its riches, its jewels,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-248" id="V2-248"></a>[<a href="images/2-248.png">248</a>]</span> +and its treasures, such as Mammon, "the least-erected +spirit," discovered and "led them on" to, in the deeps +of hell. We may now transcribe the description of +Milton's Pandemonium, the great ingredient of contrast +being light and splendour amidst the "darkness visible" +of the regions of perdition.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Anon, out of the earth a fabric huge</span> +<span class="i0">Rose like an exhalation, with the sound</span> +<span class="i0">Of dulcet symphonies, and voices sweet,</span> +<span class="i0">Built like a temple, where pilasters round</span> +<span class="i0">Were set, and Doric pillars overlaid</span> +<span class="i0">With golden architrave; nor did there want</span> +<span class="i0">Cornice or frieze, with bossy sculptures graven;</span> +<span class="i0">The roof was fretted gold."</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">* * * * *</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i10">"The ascending pile</span> +<span class="i0">Stood fix'd her stately height; and straight the doors</span> +<span class="i0">Opening their brazen folds, discover, wide</span> +<span class="i0">Within, her ample spaces, o'er the smooth</span> +<span class="i0">And level pavement; from the arched roof</span> +<span class="i0">Pendant by subtle magic, many a row</span> +<span class="i0">Of starry lamps and blazing crezzets, fed</span> +<span class="i0">With naphtha and asphaltus, yielded light</span> +<span class="i0">As from a sky."</span> +</div></div> + +<p><i>7th.</i>—From the Kesar Jenoun, and indeed before arriving +there, the valley assumed the form of a boundless +plain, widening during the whole of our march to-day. +We had still on our right, the chain of Wareerat, and, on +our left, but scarcely visible, the low ridge of sand hills. +We frequently find this sort of Desert geological phenomena; +a range of rocky hills or mountains has a parallel +range of sand hills, and the intermediate space is a +broad valley or vast plain. In traversing this valley-plain, +covered now with coarse herbage, now sand, now +mounds of earth, now pebbles, now quite bare, our pro<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-249" id="V2-249"></a>[<a href="images/2-249.png">249</a>]</span>gress +was precisely like that of a ship sailing near the +shore, with bluff rocks and headlands jutting and stretching +into the sea. So were we on our Desert ships (the +camels) coasting slowly but surely along; whilst the +mountains and their varied magic shapes continually +mocked our weary efforts, and our strained vision; now +appearing near, then distant, again near, again distant, +and ever changing their wild, fantastic forms. I thought +we passed the tree under which I made my grave-bed +of the past night, but here were many mounds and many +dark lethel-trees crowning the many mounds. The +detached rocks I did see, and recognized fully my error<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads '.'">,</ins> +but which I had conjectured, in wandering so far northwards. +Our people observed justly, "Yâkob, we all +went to find you, for we wished all equally to bear the +responsibility. If you had been lost, who knows but +what we should have been all blamed for having put you +away, or left you behind?" This is, perhaps, but too +true a conjecture. These poor people would have, +perhaps, not only been blamed for my death, but accused +of it. I was glad for their sakes, as well as my own, +that I escaped from a Desert death. The story of the +visiting the Palace of Demons would have been told, of +course, variously by so many different people. How +could they tell the story in the same way! These +varieties of evidence would have been considered unsatisfactory, +if not conclusive against them, whilst some +people, suspicious of the Moors, would have believed the +whole was a "cunningly-devised" trumped-up invention. +The deaths of Park and Laing may have been unjustly +charged upon the Africans in this way. How, and for +what they died, is now altogether beyond our investiga<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-250" id="V2-250"></a>[<a href="images/2-250.png">250</a>]</span>tion. +Even the more recent death or assassination of +Davidson is a mystery of The Desert. We encamped +close by a little stunted herbage, on which the camels +scantily fed. Weary with the previous night's adventure, +immediately on being lifted off the camel, I fell +down fast asleep upon the ground. Our course to-day +due north.</p> + +<p><i>8th.</i>—Did not rise until the sun was wheeling his +daily course high up the heavens. Felt better, and +walked a little in the morning. No symptoms of fever +from the former night's exposure. In general the open +Desert is perfectly salubrious. It is in the oases, mostly +situated in the valleys, where the fever is generated. +The Demon Temple still in view, with all its mysterious +hideousness, crowned with its grisly towers. It now +stands out in all its defiant isolation; the sand hills +which broke upon its view, running north and south, are +now seen far beyond. It is its detached condition from +the neighbouring chain of Wareerat, with which its geological +structure is indissolubly connected, that has +given this huge pile its supernatural reputation. The +Demons' Rock is apparently a huge square, having four +faces, and requiring a day to make the tour of its rugged +and jutting basements. Its highest turret-peaks may +be some six or seven hundred feet. The wady now has +disappeared,—all is an immeasurable expanse of plain, +and bare as barrenness and barren wastes can be. I +observed a peculiar mirage to-day—lakes of still black +shining water.</p> + +<p>A part of our caravan, and not the least interesting, +are six Soudan sheep, which belong to Haj Ibrahim. +Their species is well known, but I must mention what an<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-251" id="V2-251"></a>[<a href="images/2-251.png">251</a>]</span> +agile and strong animal is the Aheer and Housa sheep, +being brought from both countries. This Soudan sheep +is the best walker in the whole caravan, and the last +which feels fatigue or drops from exhaustion. He +browses herbage as the camel on the way, nibbling all +the choicest herbs, and sometimes strays at a great distance +from the caravan. He has had forty days' training +from Aheer, and, as a slave said, "He's a better +pedestrian than the mahry." He is an attacking +animal, not scrupling even to attack the hand which +feeds him with a little barley. He is so formidable to +the sheep of the Barbary Coast, that I have seen a whole +flock scamper away at the simple sight of him. He is +tall, his legs long, and his limbs generally better proportioned +than the common sheep. As he requires no wool +to shelter him from cold in the sultry regions of Central +Africa, Providence has only given him a coat of hair; +and his tail is like that of the common dog. The head +offers nothing remarkable, but his look is bold, and his +heart courageous. He butts fiercely at all strangers, and +he is the only lord of freedom whilst marching over The +Desert. In the companionship of these sheep over The +Desert, they acquire a strong affection for one another, +and I saw at Ghat two separated from a flock with great +difficulty, the whole flock pursuing savagely the man who +had taken away from them two of their <i>compagnons de +voyage</i>. In going over Desert they require little attention, +and will go without water for half a dozen days together. +When, however, we come to a well, they are the +first that will be served, neither sticks nor blows will +keep them off. We have also, as travelling companions, +ten or twelve parrots of the common blue-grey Soudan<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-252" id="V2-252"></a>[<a href="images/2-252.png">252</a>]</span> +breed. This parrot has a white broad rim round the +eye; its body is a light greyish-blue, legs, beak, and +claws black, under-tail feathers white and upper scarlet. +Each two or three of the parrots have a little round +house to themselves, about eight inches in diameter, +made of skins, and pierced with holes to let in the air +and light, besides a door. Their quarrels are frequent, +for quarrelling seems an essential part of the nature of all +animals, the rational and irrational, and they often fight +desperately, and are obliged to be separated. They are +carried on the heads of the slaves, being, as these poor +people, the purchased luxuries of the rich. The parrots +are allowed to have an airing and a walk morning and +evening. They all talk in good grammatical Negro language, +and can occasionally aid our researches in Nigritian +tongues. Parrots are brought from as far as Noufee.</p> + +<p>The wood in the valley we just left, is the Lethel. +Its leaves are powdered over with a white saline substance, +indeed, why not salt itself? Some of these trees +are very large, having very thick trunks and boughs, perhaps +forty feet high, and ten feet round the thickest +trunks, which wood, when palm-wood is scarce, is used +instead for building. On the plain, however, the Tholh<a name="FNa_2-29" id="FNa_2-29"></a><a href="#FoN_2-29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> +began to appear. This tree is found, as noticed before, +in the most desolate places of The Desolate Sahara. +It is sometimes very large for trees here, perhaps thirty +feet high, and six or seven of width round its broadest<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-253" id="V2-253"></a>[<a href="images/2-253.png">253</a>]</span> +trunks. The camels browse on it always, and when +hungry crop with avidity a great quantity of the prickles +and thorns, and thorny leaves. It is a mystery to me +how the camel can chew such thorns in its delicate +mouth. The Koran mentions the tholh (Surat lvi.), as +one of the trees of Paradise, which Sale has translated +Mauz, "the trees of mauz loaded regularly with their +produce from top to bottom." But tholh here seems to +refer to a very tall and thorny tree, which bears an +abundance of beautiful flowers of an agreeable odour, +one of the many species of acacia, and not the ordinary +gum-arabic tree.</p> + +<p>Near sun-set we left the plain, and I took an everlasting +farewell of the Temple of Genii. Poor inanimate +Rock! which should so much bewilder man's crazy brain, +and fill the desert travellers with such strange fancies. +We turned to the north-west into a gorge of the chain of +Wareerat. In this gorge, besides the usual black sandstone, +with glossy basaltic forms, were large deposits of +chalk, one of which our route intersected, on the top of +the ridge, where also the action of water was extremely +well marked. The action of water remains a long time +visible in The Great Desert, perhaps twelve, twenty, +nay, fifty years, during which several periods, even in +the driest regions of The Sahara, there is sure to be a +heavy drenching rain,—an overflowing, overwhelming +mass of water falls on the desert lands. The districts of +Ghat remained some eight or ten years without an +abundant rain, till this last winter, when it came in most +overpowering showers<a name="FNa_2-30" id="FNa_2-30"></a><a href="#FoN_2-30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a>. The action of rain on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-254" id="V2-254"></a>[<a href="images/2-254.png">254</a>]</span> +earthy bosom of The Desert is very much like that of +the action of the sea on its shores, which has led to the +remark, that The Sahara looks as if it been "washed +over" by the ocean. The mounds of earth so frequently +met with in The Desert are formed by water in +the time of great rains. In this gorge were big blocks +of stone, on which were carved Touarghee characters. It +was fortunate I knew the characters, for the people +wished to persuade me they were those of very ancient +people, and of Christians, whilst none of the party could +read them. They are probably the names of shepherd +and Touarghee camel-drivers, wandering through Desert. +Some of the letters have a very broad square Hebrew or +Ethiopic look about them. The gorge was steep, narrow, +and intricate in the first part of its ascent. We +then descended and encamped between the links of the +chains, which form so many valleys, some broad and +deep. It was a good while after sun-set, when we +brought up for the night, and we had come a very long +day. All were greatly fatigued, especially the poor +slave girls.</p> + +<p><i>9th.</i>—Rose early, and started early. The feet-marks +of the aoudad wore observed on the sand. Course +through the gorge north-east. After a couple of hours +we cleared the gorge, entering upon a broad open plain +or valley. Here I observed the chain of Wareerat was<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-255" id="V2-255"></a>[<a href="images/2-255.png">255</a>]</span> +rounded off on the eastern side, and of considerably less +altitude, whilst the peaks of the opposite or western side +were steep and escarpé, owing apparently to the action +of the water in the wady.</p> + +<p>Continuing our course on the plain for an hour or +two, we arrived at the oasis of Serdalas, a handful of +cultivation, but very fair and of vigorous growth. The +valley or plain of Serdalas, which is also called Ludinat, +and the site of a Marabet, is an extensive undulating +plain, bounded east and west by two ranges of +mountains, stretching north and south. Near the spot +of our encampment are wells of excellent water, seven +or eight of them, and the largest is a thermal spring, +which is about the centre of the oasis. It is banked up, +or rather issues from a rocky eminence, where large +lumps of bog iron may be picked up. Formerly this +spring was fortified, the high walls built around its +mouth still remaining, and there are besides the brick +ruins of a castle close by. Tradition relates that the +oasis was formerly colonized by Christians, and others +say, by Jews. It may, indeed, have been colonized previously +to the arrival of the Arabs in Africa by the +ancient Berbers, or Numidians, but the castle itself is of +Moorish modern construction. The present miserable +population does not exceed ten persons, Fezzaneers +and one or two Touaricks, who cultivate a little wheat +and ghusub. The houses are huts of sticks, date-leaves, +and dried grass. Near the great spring is a large +tree, with prickly thorny leaves, not unlike the tholh. +It is called <i>Ahatas</i>, ‮اهتس‬, and was brought from Soudan, +where its species grows to an enormous magnitude. Its +wood makes excellent bowls, spoons, and several useful<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-256" id="V2-256"></a>[<a href="images/2-256.png">256</a>]</span> +domestic utensils. This tree measures at least twelve +feet round its trunk; its principal branch is prostrate, +bent beneath the burden of many a Saharan summer's +heat and winter's cold. From the old paralyzed arm, +however, shoot up young green branches, offering a +pleasant shade to the weary and thirsty wayfarer in +these wilds. Under this tree money is buried to a great +amount, but the writings, pointing out the particular +spot, were destroyed by a son of the Marabout, whose +tomb consecrates this desert spot. Several small birds +are hopping about, like those seen in Ghat, with white +heads and white under tails, the rest black. This seems +a <i>bonâ fide</i> feathered tenant of Sahara.</p> + +<p>We remain here to-day and to-morrow. It is, perhaps, +for the better, for we are all knocked up. By preserving +the body we preserve the mind. Our party consists of +four merchants, the rest being servants and slaves. My +friend Haj Ibrahim is the principal one. We have the +Medina Shereef, who is in charge of a male and two +female slaves, the property of the Governor of Ghat. +He continues his route from Tripoli to Mecca, and +expects to be absent two years on his pilgrimage. The +Shereef makes great pretensions to learning and sanctity, +and I believe he is clever, if not learned; he says to me, +"My business is study and prayer." He asked me about +Khanouhen, his father-in-law, and the presents which I +made the prince, and said, "Khanouhen sent back his +presents to you, and would not accept them." I told +him I commuted the goods into silver; at which he +laughed and remarked, "Ah! Khanouhen is deeper than +the devil himself." He considers Jabour's protection +omnipotent in the route of Timbuctoo, but says the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-257" id="V2-257"></a>[<a href="images/2-257.png">257</a>]</span> +Touaricks only, and not caravans, can protect European +travellers: I think the Shereef is right. Another of +our merchants is a very civil Ghadamsee, and acts as a +sort of broker for Haj Ibrahim. He is very civil and +good-natured, but, nevertheless, keeps mostly in his hand +a little nasty whip, with which he lays it into the +unlucky slaves. The last of the four is a queer dwarfish +Touatee, from Aïn Salah, who is carrying a few little +bags of gold to Tripoli, perhaps a dozen ounces. At +the instigation of the Shereef, who likes a laugh, I keep +roasting him on the way, telling him, "You have got so +much gold about you that we are sure to be attacked +by banditti before we arrive safely at Tripoli." This +makes him very savage, and sometimes he calls me a +kafer. Haj Omer is the great factotum of Haj Ibrahim, +an Arab of Tripoli, and a most hardy hard-working +fellow. Omer has two camels which are hired by his +master. One of these foaled a little before we left Ghat, +and he carried the young camel the half of a day's +journey on his back. Omer never rides, walks all day +long, pitches the tents, looks after the camels, looks after +the slaves, and from morning to night is on his legs. So +these people can work when it is necessary; indeed, I +am sure, with a good government, and an equitable +system of trade, the Moors and Arabs of North Africa +would be as industrious and persevering as any other +people.</p> + +<p>It is now afternoon, and very hot. The weather has +been sultry the four days of our route. But our faces +are nearly always north, and a slight fresh breeze blows +from either N., N.E., or N.W. every day, a most grateful +relief. It is, however, cold at nights, and very cold in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-258" id="V2-258"></a>[<a href="images/2-258.png">258</a>]</span> +the morning after the heat has been absorbed during the +night. The negresses are busy either pounding ghusub, +or washing themselves, or making the toilet and arranging +their sable persons in showy trinkets. Certainly woman +in the negro races is a remarkable creature. She bears +her bondage and its hardships with consummate fortitude, +and the greatest good humour and gaiety, never quarrelling +or sulking with her master, and only now and +then having a little bickering of jealousy or rivalry with +her fellow slave. Two or three slaves only, for the present, +are unable to keep up, and placed on the backs of camels. +I am astonished to see how well they keep up, what +fatigue they are capable of bearing; I should myself die +of exhaustion were I placed in their situation. There is +a little boy only four or five years of age, who walks as +well as any of them. He refused my offer to give him +a ride, and answered, "I don't wish to ride. I walked +all the way from my native country to Ghat." Should +this little creature continue to walk his way to Tripoli, +by the time he arrives in that city he will have walked +over eighty-five days of Desert, besides the distance he +may have walked before reaching Aheer, perhaps some +additional thirty days.</p> + +<p>Another of Haj Ibrahim's camels foaled to-day. The +foal is stretched upon the ground as if lifeless, the mother +standing over and staring at it. But the foal will not +remain so long, for to-morrow or next day it will be up +on its legs, and after four, five, or six days, it will be +able to run after its dam. In fact, the foal, now +five days' old, runs after its mother part of the day's +march, and after two or three more days it will be able +to continue a whole day's journey. Here is an instance<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-259" id="V2-259"></a>[<a href="images/2-259.png">259</a>]</span> +of the immense superiority of the lower animal over the +higher animal man. It is curious that the cry of the +foal is very much like a child, and I once turned round +to see a negress child crying, and found it was a camel-foal. +In marching the foal is tied upon the back of its +mother, and so borne along, the dam grumbling regular +choruses to the cry of the foal. (<i>Later an hour.</i>) The +foal is actually upon its legs, about four hours after its +birth, and it has sucked its mother twice. The mother +does not quarrel so much about her child as the first she-camel. +Such is the varying dispositions of brutes. A +foal is worth ten dollars when a year old. Most she-camels +have a foal every other year, but some few every +year. The foal remains a whole year with its mother. +None of these camels give milk, because there is not +sufficient herbage in our way. In cases of extremity, +when the herbage is scarce and the camels give little +milk, the Touaricks of Ghat will drive their camels to +graze as far as Aheer, or even to Soudan. Milk is an +essential portion of their means of existence. The reader +must not be surprised to find so frequent a mention of +the Camel-Ship of The Desert. In the Koran the camel +is thus introduced, "Do not they consider the camels, +how they are created?" (Surat <span class="smcap">l</span>xxxviii.) and very properly, +as a wonderful instance of the creative might of +Deity. These animals are of such use, or rather necessity, +in The East and in The Desert, that the creation +of a species so wonderfully adapted to these countries, +is a very apposite and proper instance to an Arabian +and African, or even an European (travelling here), of +the power and wisdom of the Creator. Like the reindeer, +and the lichen, or moss, on which it feeds in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-260" id="V2-260"></a>[<a href="images/2-260.png">260</a>]</span> +the polar regions, the camel and the date-palms in the +Great Desert furnish striking and remarkable examples +of the inseparable connexion of certain animals and +plants with human society and the propagation of our +common species. Providence, or nature, for it is the +same, has so formed the faithful, patient and enduring +camel, as to create in this animal a link of social and +commercial intercourse amongst widely-scattered and +otherwise apparently unapproachable nations. The she-camel +which I am riding through these solitary wastes +never fails me, except from sheer exhaustion, the enduring +creature never giving in whilst nature sustains +her! In the most arid, herbless, plantless, treeless, +thirsty wastes, she finds her loved-home, for The Desert +is the natural sphere of life and action for the camel. +The Desert was made for the Camel, and the Camel was +made for The Desert.</p> + +<p><i>10th.</i>—Did not sleep very well, and felt very cold +during the night. But as soon as the sun is up it is +hot. Such is The Desert. It is also cold in the shade, +and hot in the sun. When riding, a hot wind burns the +one cheek, and a cold wind blanches the other cheek<a name="FNa_2-31" id="FNa_2-31"></a><a href="#FoN_2-31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a>. +You wander through these extremes like the spirits of +the nethermost regions,—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"And feel by turns the bitter change</span> +<span class="i0">Of fierce extremes, extremes by change more fierce:</span> +<span class="i0">From beds of raging fire, to starve in ice—</span> +<span class="i0">Thence hurried back to fire."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>I usually am obliged to wear my cloak out of the sun, +besides a woollen burnouse.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-261" id="V2-261"></a>[<a href="images/2-261.png">261</a>]</span></p> + +<p>Visited the marabet, or mausoleum, of Sidi Bou Salah, +about two hundred paces from the large spring. My Fezzanee +guide told me the daughter of the buried Marabout +was still living in the oasis, but his sons were residing in +Fezzan. When the corn was reaped, late in the spring, +he himself should return to Fezzan. One or two persons +would remain here. The tomb of the Marabout is enclosed +within the usual square little house, having a +dome or cupola roof, but it is not clean whitewashed, as +these sanctuaries generally are on the Coast. On the +tomb is a coverlet of particoloured and showy silks. +The room of the mausoleum is snug and clean. A little +lamp is kept burning at the head during the night. +This is a sort of perpetual fire. There are two or three +outhouses, or rooms, adjoining, in which, if anything be +deposited, it is quite safe, it is sacred, no robbers in +these wild countries being bold enough to commit such a +sacrilege against the God of the Islamites. The entire +oasis is peculiarly protected by the halo of the awful +Marabout here buried. It is a place of perfect security +for all travellers. In this way the sentiment of religion +confers its advantages, whatever may be the creed of its +professors. No doubt the sentiment of religion, as connected +with superstition, inflicts upon mankind intolerable +evils; but here, at any rate, is some compensation.</p> + +<p>I surveyed again the great thermal spring. The +water issues from a rocky ferruginous soil of iron ore, +giving the water a mineral taste. Yet it is of the best +quality. Apparently the water descends from the +neighbouring mountain chains, and collects here, but its +flow or stream is perennial. From this little eminence +I had a panoramic view of the country, and was grate<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-262" id="V2-262"></a>[<a href="images/2-262.png">262</a>]</span>fully +affected with the beautiful situation of the oasis. +In the hands of Europeans, a city would be created here, +one of the largest of The Great Desert, for water abounds +on every side. This oasis would become the centre of a +dense population, fed from the products of the soil. A +mart of commerce would concentrate a great Saharan +traffic, ramifying through every part of Africa. But +what can be expected from people whose one predominant +and <i>quasi</i>-religious idea teaches them that everything +should remain as it is; as it was before so shall it +be hereafter. People nevertheless pretend that political +causes keep the oasis in its present miserable condition. +Serdalas belongs to the Touaricks, who let it out to the +Fezzaneers, but will not permit them to plant date-palms, +lest the oasis should flourish and rival Ghat, and so +injure that mart of commerce. Be it as it may, man +always fails of his work, and if he does so in the more +genial climes of Europe, what can come of his idleness +and his improvidence in The Vast African Desert? Desolate +as The Sahara may be in its essential character, it +is rendered still more so by the neglect of its heedless +and dreamy tenants. Many are the oases in this neglected, +abandoned state. And the saddening, sickening +thought often recurs to me, that, however desolate The +Sahara may have been in past ages, it is now getting +worse instead of better. Ghadames, and many oases +of Fezzan, are dwindling away to nothing, the population +lessening, and dispersing under the curse of the +Turkish system!</p> + +<p>Fezzan is only reckoned five days from Serdalas, good +travelling, but, with a caravan of slaves, it will occupy +us six or seven days. How fond of lying are the Moors,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-263" id="V2-263"></a>[<a href="images/2-263.png">263</a>]</span> +or, shall we say, boasting? The Shereef, I hear from +my other companions, is not going on a pilgrimage to +Mecca, as he boasted to me. He merely goes to Tripoli +on a trip to sell his three slaves for the Governor, his +uncle, and purchase a little merchandise in return.</p> + +<p>Had a visit from the daughter of the Marabout, the +wild Sybil of The Desert. She is an Arab lady of some +seventy or more years of age, but, like most ladies, does +not know how old she is. At first sight of her, I</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Gaz'd on her sun-burnt face with silent awe,</span> +<span class="i0">Her tatter'd mantle,</span> +<span class="i0">Her moving lips,—</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Whose dark eyes flash'd, through locks</span> +<span class="i0">of blackest shade."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>The Pythoness asked me how I liked her country, +a hundred times, and then begged for something in +the name of Allah. She kept saying, "What have +you got for the daughter of the great Marabout?" +"What have you got for her who dedicates her life +to God?" She was very proud of the distinction, <i>Bent-El-Marabout</i> +("daughter of the Marabout"). And +why should she not be proud? When all comes to +all, the Saharan lady is as good as a Roman Nepote +of the Pope. She continued, "What have you +got for the daughter of the great Marabout?" And, +indeed, I had got very little. I then gave her a little +looking-glass, the only one I had. But this is no privation +in The Desert, however necessary elsewhere. The +looking-glass exceedingly delighted the sybil, for in it she +saw the stern features of her face, with her dauntless eye. +She then got familiar. She wondered why I was not<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-264" id="V2-264"></a>[<a href="images/2-264.png">264</a>]</span> +married, and how I could go to sleep without a wife<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: added missing period">.</ins> +She prayed me to take one from Fezzan, or buy a negress +of the caravan, telling the people, "The Christian is +very good, but very foolish. The Christian has plenty +of money, and does not buy a wife." I told her it was +prohibited to buy slaves. And as to a wife, I could not +carry her about in The Desert. To which she at length, +after much persuasion, consented to agree. The daughter +of the Marabout showed no hostility against me as a +Christian, although of such pure blood, and in which the +antagonism of the eastern to the western spirit is supposed +to be stronger. She gave me her blessing, and we +parted friends. The only piece of dress of any kind +which the Maraboutess wore was a thick, dark, woollen +frock, with short sleeves. She had no ornaments; her +hair was black, mixed with grey, long, and dishevelled +about her neck and shoulders. An air of the Pythoness +overshadows the countenance and carriage of this Desert +priestess. Amongst the people she is a holy being. +She lives alone. She has the power of foretelling future +events. She receives small presents from all the ghafalahs +which visit the oasis, as tithes of the Marabout +shrine. She never leaves this Desert spot. Her person +was ever inviolable. It is related that, many years ago, +an Arab once attempted to surprise her in the night, +and share a part of her bed, but was immediately +struck dead before he could stretch out his hand to open +the door of her grass-built hut. So The Desert has its +incorruptible vestals. But the conversation which her +ladyship had with me was all pro-matrimonial, and would +not have suggested to the stranger that she was an +ancient maiden of inviolate chastity. Perhaps she might<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-265" id="V2-265"></a>[<a href="images/2-265.png">265</a>]</span> +have thought this sort of conversation would please me +best. The Maraboutess, as well as the few Fezzaneers +in Serdalas, are of short stature, of a very dark-brown +complexion, approaching nearly to black, and some have +the broad distended nostrils of the negro. The Shereef +said to me this afternoon, "I'm going to pray at the +Marabout shrine; I go happily, I return happily." Our +Shereef is a little self-righteous.</p> + +<p>Evening, died a young female slave. She had been +ill a month. She was of the most delicate frame, and +cost seventy dollars as a great beauty. She was buried +in the grave-yard of the Marabet without any ceremonies. +Happy creature to have so died. They first tried to dig +a grave in open desert, but not succeeding, they carried +her to the burial-ground of the Marabet.</p> + +<p><i>11th.</i>—To-day is the fourteenth day of the month, and +Wednesday instead of Monday, by the reckoning of my +fellow travellers. A fine morning, but we all felt severe +cold during the past night, and which nipped up the +poor slaves.</p> + +<p>This morning visited Haj Ibrahim early, and seeing a +young female very ill I remarked: "You had better leave +her with the daughter of the Marabout." He replied, +much agitated, "Oh, no, it's a she-devil." Thinking she +might be sulky, as Negroes often sulk, I made no other +observation. A few minutes after I heard the noise of +whipping, and turning round, to my great surprise, I saw +the Haj beating her not very mercifully. He had a +whip of bull's hide with which he gave her several +lashes. This displeased me much, for I thought if the girl +had sulked a little she might have been cured without<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-266" id="V2-266"></a>[<a href="images/2-266.png">266</a>]</span> +recourse to the whip, in her debilitated state. About a +quarter of an hour afterwards, or not so much, I saw +Haj Omer, servant of the Haj, going towards the graveyard, +with a small ax in his hand, and suspecting something +had happened, I followed to see what it was. On +arriving at the Marabet, I asked,</p> + +<p>"What are you going to do?"</p> + +<p>"Dig a grave, only," was the reply.</p> + +<p>"What," I continued, "are you going to dig the +grave of the Negress whom Haj Ibrahim was just now +beating?"</p> + +<p>"Yes," Omer returned, greatly ashamed.</p> + +<p>I was not surprised at the answer, but a disagreeable +chill came over me. Omer then added apologetically, +"They bring these poor creatures by force, they steal them. +They give them nothing to eat but hasheesh (herbs). Her +stomach is swollen. We couldn't cure her; Haj Ibrahim +beat her to cure her. She had diarrhœa." This requires +no comment. I add only, if Haj Ibrahim, who is a good +master, can treat his slaves thus, what may we not expect +from others less humane? There is no doubt but that the +whipping of this poor creature hastened her death. She +was, indeed, whipped at the point of death. I stopped +to see the lacerated slave buried. She was some eleven +years of age, and of frailest form. A grave was dug for +her about fifteen inches deep and ten wide. It is fortunate +there are no hyenas or chacalls to scratch up +these bodies. They do "rest in peace." Into this narrow +crib of earth she was thrust down, resting on her +right side, with her head towards the south, and her face +towards the east, or towards Mecca. She had on a small<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-267" id="V2-267"></a>[<a href="images/2-267.png">267</a>]</span> +chemise, and her head and feet and loins were wrapped +round with a frock of tattered black Soudan cotton. +Omer, before he put her in, felt her breast to see if she +were really dead. At first he seemed to doubt it, and +fancied he felt her heart beating, but at last he made up +his mind that she was really dead. I felt her hands. +They were deathly cold. At times Moors bury people +warm, and not unfrequently alive. They are always in +a desperate hurry to get corpses under ground, thinking +the soul cannot have any peace whilst the body lies unburied. +As the last service to the body, Omer took some +earth and stopped up her nostrils. This was done to +prevent her reviving should she be not really dead, and +attempt to move. Unquestionably if buried in the open +desert, it is a service, for the wretch only revives to die +a more horrible death. Some small flag-stones were +then laid over the narrow cell, and these were covered +with earth, in the form of a common grave, being only a +little narrower than our graves, as the body is turned up +on its side. The two poor young things lay side by side, +the one who died yesterday, and the one to-day, giving +their liberated spirits opportunity to return to the loved +land of freedom, the wild woods of the Niger. Happy +beings were they;—better to die so in The Desert, in the +morning of their bondage, than live to minister to the +corrupt appetites of the unfeeling sensualist! Seeing +others, free people, with pieces of stone raised up at +their heads, and wishing the slave and the free to have +equal rights in the grave, I fetched two pieces of stone +and placed them at their heads likewise. If it be permitted +to pray for the dead, God save, in mercy, these +two youthful, frail, but almost sinless souls!<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-268" id="V2-268"></a>[<a href="images/2-268.png">268</a>]</span></p> + +<h4>DIRGE<a name="FNa_2-32" id="FNa_2-32"></a><a href="#FoN_2-32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a>.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"O'er her toil-wither'd limbs sickly languors were shed,</span> +<span class="i0">And the dark mists of death on her eyelids were spread;</span> +<span class="i0">Before her last sufferings how glad did she bend,</span> +<span class="i0">For the strong arm of death was the arm of a friend.</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Against the hot breezes hard struggled her breast,</span> +<span class="i0">Slow, slow beat her heart, as she hastened to rest;</span> +<span class="i0">No more shall sharp anguish her faint bosom rend,</span> +<span class="i0">For the strong arm of death was the arm of a friend.</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"No more shall she sink in the deep scorching air,</span> +<span class="i0">No more shall keen hunger her weak body tear;</span> +<span class="i0">No more on her limbs shall swift lashes descend,</span> +<span class="i0">For the strong arm of death was the arm of a friend.</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Ye ruffians! who tore her from all she held dear,</span> +<span class="i0">Who mock'd at her wailings and smil'd at her tear;</span> +<span class="i0">Now, now she'll escape, every suffering shall end,</span> +<span class="i0">For the strong arm of death was the arm of a friend."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>I returned to the encampment and found the caravan +in motion. Burning hot to-day. I felt the heat as +oppressive as in my journey of August to Ghadames. +Fortunately our faces were north-east, away from the +sun in its greatest power. No one can understand this +passage, <ins class="grk" title="Greek: kai hê opsis autou hôs ho hêlios phainei en tê dunamei autou">καὶ ἡ ὄψις αὐτοῦ ὡς ὁ ἥλιος φαίνει ἐν τῇ δυνάμει αὐτοῦ</ins>, +(Rev. i. 16,) who has not travelled under the +influence of the Saharan sun. The rays dart down with +a peculiar fierceness upon your devoted head, depriving +you of all your life-springs. As to its splendour, the +eye of the eagle turns away daunted from its all-effulgent +beams. Since leaving Ghat we have passed +many graves of the "bond and the free," who have +died in open desert. Passed one to-day, with Arabic<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-269" id="V2-269"></a>[<a href="images/2-269.png">269</a>]</span> +characters carved on the stone raised at its head. +Passed by also several desert mosques, which are simply +the outline in small stones, of the ground-plan of +Mahometan temples.</p> + +<p>We have, in many instances, only the floor of the +mosque marked out, or rather the walls which inclose the +floor. Within the outlines the stones are nicely cleared +away. Here the devout passers-by occasionally stop and +pray. The desert mosques are some of them of these +shapes—</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill2-10.jpg"><img src="images/ill2-10_th.jpg" alt="Shapes of Desert Mosques" title="Shapes of Desert Mosques" /></a></p> + +<p>The places projecting in squares or recesses are the +kiblah, upon which the Faithful prostrate themselves +towards the east, or Mecca<a name="FNa_2-33" id="FNa_2-33"></a><a href="#FoN_2-33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a>.</p> + +<p>Our course is through an undulating country of hills +and valleys. We made a short day, for we began to +fear we might lose many of the slaves. A Touarghee +caravan, going to Fezzan, overtook us <i>en route</i>, but +soon turned off to the north-west.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-27" id="FoN_2-27"></a><a href="#FNa_2-27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> I hope I offered up a heartfelt prayer of thankfulness to the +Almighty for my deliverance from perishing in The Desert.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-28" id="FoN_2-28"></a><a href="#FNa_2-28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> It is a very wide valley, nay an extensive plain. But the +Doctor writes about it before he arrives there.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-29" id="FoN_2-29"></a><a href="#FNa_2-29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> Tholh—‮الظلح‬—<i>Acacia gummifera</i>, (Willd.) It bears what the +Moors and Arabs call <i>Smug Elârab</i> (‮صمغ العرب‬), or "Gum +Arabic." This is the most hardy tree of The Desert, and, like the +karub-trees of Malta, strikes its roots into the very stones.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-30" id="FoN_2-30"></a><a href="#FNa_2-30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> Dr. Oudney says, who was a man of science:—"Rain sometimes +falls in the valley (of Sherkee, Fezzan,) sufficient to overflow +the surface and form mountain torrents. But it has no regular +periods, five, eight, and nine years frequently intervening between +each time. Thus, no trust can be placed in the occurrence of rain, +and no application made in agricultural concerns." In truth, the +rain which falls in these uncertain intervals, seems to answer no +available purpose, unless to feed the wells and under-currents of +water.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-31" id="FoN_2-31"></a><a href="#FNa_2-31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> The blowing hot and cold with the same breath is here a +reality, or thereabouts.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-32" id="FoN_2-32"></a><a href="#FNa_2-32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> Adapted from an anonymous piece, called "<i>The Dying +Negro</i>."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-33" id="FoN_2-33"></a><a href="#FNa_2-33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> "But we will cause thee to turn towards a <i>Kiblah</i> that will +please thee. Turn, therefore, thy face towards the holy temple of +Mecca; and wherever ye be, turn your faces towards that place."—<i>Surat</i> +ii.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-270" id="V2-270"></a>[<a href="images/2-270.png">270</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV.</h2> + +<h3>FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Another Range of Black Mountains.—Habits of She-Camels when +having Foals.—Our Mahrys.—Intelligence of my Nagah.—Geology +of Route.—Arrive at the Boundaries of Ghat and +Fezzan.—The Moon-Stroke.—Sudden Tempest.—Theological +Controversy of The Shereef.—Wars and Razzias between the +Tibboos and Touaricks.—Forests of Tholh Trees.—The Shereef's +opinion of the Touaricks.—Dine with The Shereef.—Saharan +Travellers badly clothed and fed.—Style of making Bazeen.—Mode +of Encamping.—Cold Day, felt by all the Caravan.—Well +of Teenabunda.—Arrival in The Wady of Fezzan.—Meeting +of the two Slave Caravans.—Tombs of Ancient Christians.—Routes +between Ghat and Fezzan.—Weariness of Saharan +Travel.—Oases and Palms of The Wady.—We meet a rude +Sheikh, demanding Custom-Dues.—Haj Ibrahim's opinion of +the Virgin Mary.—Black Jews in Central Africa.—My Affray +with the Egyptian.—Route to Tripoli, <i>viâ</i> Shaty and Mizdah.—Features +and Colour of Fezzaneers.—My Journey from The +Wady to Mourzuk, on leaving the Slave-Caravans.—Tombs of +former Inhabitants, and Legends about them.—Bleak and Black +Plateau.—The Targhee Scout.—Have a Bilious Attack.—Desert +Arcadians, and lone Shepherdesses.—Oasis of Agath, and its +want of Hospitality.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>12th.</i>—<span class="smcap">A long</span>, long, weary day, and tormentingly +hot in the middle of the day. Course north-east, over +plains scattered with small stones. Traversed a few +small ridges of hills. A new species of stone to-day, +the hard slate-coloured, and some of it with a granite-like +look. Afternoon, came in sight of the other chain +of black, or, as sometimes designated, Soudan mountains, +stretching boundlessly north and south, like those near<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-271" id="V2-271"></a>[<a href="images/2-271.png">271</a>]</span> +Ghat. This chain likewise extends to the Tibboo +country. It is an error of some of the late French +writers, to make the Saharan ranges always run east and +west. This direction of development only applies to the +Atlas ranges of the Coast. No trees, and no herbage +for the camels. The hasheesh which the camels ate this +evening was brought us from the encampment of yesterday. +The poor slaves knocked up to-day; rested many +times on the road, and another very ill. In all probability +she will follow her companions lately dead. Others, +however, sang and danced, and tried to forget their +slavery and hardships. But the death of the two girls is +a damper for the rest, and they have not been so merry +since that mournful occurrence. The she-camels, which +have foals, give no milk for want of herbage. The two +mothers bite one another's children. This, perhaps, they +do to teach the young ones their true mothers. One of +them makes a great noise over her young one, and disturbs +all the caravan. Evening, whilst all the people +were at prayers, and prostrating in their usual parallel +lines, I went up to her, and began teazing her. The +angry brute slowly and deliberately got up, but, once on +her legs, she made a dead set at me, running after me. +Meanwhile, receding backwards as fast as I could, I fell +over some of the people praying and prostrating, and +the camel attacked them as well as me, spoiling their +devotions. The camel now returned to her foal; and, +prayers over, Haj Ibrahim said to me, laughing, "Yâkob, +the camel knows you are a kafer, and don't pray with us. +So she attacks you. Camels never attack good Moslems +at their prayers." The foal of seven days' old walked +the whole of our long march to-day! and nearly as fast<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-272" id="V2-272"></a>[<a href="images/2-272.png">272</a>]</span> +as a man. So the poor camel begins to learn by times +its lessons of patience and long-suffering. The mahry of +the Haj is very vicious and greedy, and bites all the +other camels which eat with it. Camels are made to +eat in a circle, all kneeling down, head to head, and eye +to eye. Within this circle of heads is thrown the fodder. +Each camel claims its place and portion, eating that +directly opposite to its head. The people eat in the +same manner in circles, each claiming the portion before +them, but squatting on their hams instead of kneeling. +The mahry of the Haj is quite white, and is a very fine +animal; but its eye is small and sleepy-looking, so that +it does not appear to have the amount of intelligence of +the Coast camels. We have another smaller mahry, and +some of the mahrys are as diminutive as others are +gigantic in size. My nagah feeds by herself. The +males never bite the females as they bite one another,—a +piece of admirable gallantry, so far, on their part, but +they rob the females of their fodder, and I am obliged +constantly to keep driving them away from my nagah. +The nagah knows she receives her dates from our panniers. +Stooping down on one of them this evening to +find something, putting my head right in, and raising +myself up, I found the nagah's head right over my +shoulder, attentively watching me, to see if I was +bringing out her dates. She distinguishes me well from +the Moors and Arabs, by my black cloak, and is usually +very gentle and civil to me, and familiar, more especially +about the time of bringing out the dates.</p> + +<p><i>13th.</i>—Our course north-east, over an undulating +plain of sand and gravel, and at intervals the desert +surface was a plain pavement of stone, of a dark slate-<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-273" id="V2-273"></a>[<a href="images/2-273.png">273</a>]</span>colour. +Greater part of the route strewn with pieces of +petrified wood, but no pretty fossil remains. Wood, apparently +chumps of the tholh. We had all day the +new range of black mountains on our right, which extend +southwards far beyond the Fezzanee country to the +Tibboos. Intensely cold all day, the air misty, and the +wind from north-west. But I prefer this cold to the heat +of yesterday. Haj Ibrahim complained of the cold, and +was alarmed for his slaves. One of the females he +chased on his mahry, the girl running away on foot, and +gave her two or three cuts with the whip. She had +been accused of too great familiarity with a male slave. +Crime and slavery go hand in hand: Miserable +humanity!</p> + +<p>About noon, we reached the territory of Fezzan. Good +bye, Touaricks! farewell to the land of the brave and +the free! Farewell, ye Barbarians! where prisons, +gibbets, murders, and assassinations are unheard of. We +now tread the soil of despotism, decapitations, slavery +and civilization, under the benign Ottoman rule, in conjunction +with the Christianized Powers of Europe! The +boundaries of Ghat and Fezzan are determined by two +conspicuous objects, first, by a chain of mountains running +north-east and south-west, joining the oases of Fezzan +on the north, and extending to the Tibboo towns on the +south, the eastern side of all which chain is claimed by +the masters of Fezzan, the western by the Touaricks of +Ghat; and secondly the forests of tholh trees, which are +now appearing in our north, affording abundant wood to +the people of the caravan, and browsing for the camels. +I am now, then, once more under the power of the +Porte, and within the region of Turkish civilization.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-274" id="V2-274"></a>[<a href="images/2-274.png">274</a>]</span> +Passed other desert mosques, with some Arabic characters +written in the sand, near the Keblah.</p> + +<p>To-night the moon shone with a sun's splendour; all +our people seemed startled at this prodigious effulgence +of light. Several of the slaves ran out amongst the +tholh trees, and began to dance and kick up their heels +as if possessed. It might remind them of the clear +moonlit banks and woods of Niger. Haj Ibrahim at +last got out his umbrella and put it up, "What's that +for?" I asked. "The moon is corrupt (fesed), its light +will give me fever. You must put up your broken +umbrella." So said all our people, and related many +stories of persons struck by the moon and dying instantaneously<a name="FNa_2-34" id="FNa_2-34"></a><a href="#FoN_2-34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a>. +This is another illustration of the passage, +"The sun shall not smite thee by day, nor the moon by +night." (Ps. cxxi. 6.) In the Scriptures are several +allusions to a stroke of the sun, (see Is. x<span class="smcap">l</span>ix. 10, Rev. +vii. 16,) but few to the moon-stroke. Saharan opinion +is that the moon-stroke is fatal. I am not aware that +the moon-stroke is well authenticated by our eminent +physicians. The writer of the psalm spoke the current +language of his epoch of science. It is probable that +"moon-struck madness," and strokes of the moon, are +the effects of noisome or infectious vapours which crowd +about the night, and obscure with a still paler light that +pale luminary. The sun-stroke seems to be well-authenticated; +many cases of Europeans going hunting and +sporting in the open country of Barbary, then and there<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-275" id="V2-275"></a>[<a href="images/2-275.png">275</a>]</span> +receiving a stroke of the sun, and dying with fever, are +on record.</p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—Course as usual, north-east. Cold to-day. +Skirt the mountain-chain on our right, and traverse a +vast plain, scattered with pebbles and other small stones. +As yet, we have not passed over sands or through any +sandy region, although sand-ranges bounded the west in +the early part of the route; here and there a little sand, +loose and flying about. Our road is a splendid carriage-road. +Oh, were there but water! But water is the all +and everything in The Desert. Encamped on the limitless +plain. How variable is Saharan weather: now, at +sunset, a tempest rises, and sweeps the bosom of The +Desert with "the besom of destruction!" A high wind +continued all night. I fancied myself at sea, but preferred +the Ocean Desert, its groaning hurricane, its +hideous barrenness, to the heaving and roaring of the +Ocean of Waters. We passed another desert mosque; it +was only a simple line, slightly curved for the Keblah. +There were also some letters written on the earth, in +Arabic, passages from the Koran. Other writing on the +ground is always smoothed over, and not allowed to +remain. Part of the road was covered with heaps of +stone, as if done to clear it, as well as to direct travellers +<i>en route</i>.</p> + +<p>The Shereef introduced the subject of religion to-night +in conversation. He observed:—</p> + +<p>"The torments of the damned are like all the fires in +the world put together."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"Are these torments eternal?"</p> + +<p><i>The Shereef.</i>—"Yes, as everlasting as Paradise."<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-276" id="V2-276"></a>[<a href="images/2-276.png">276</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"But do you not continually say, 'God is The +Most Merciful.' How can this be?"</p> + +<p><i>The Shereef.</i>—"I don't know, so it is decreed." The +Shereef boldly continued, "In this world<a name="FNa_2-35" id="FNa_2-35"></a><a href="#FoN_2-35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> God has +given all the infidels plenty of good things, (this being a +sly allusion to the Christians and their possession of +great wealth); but, in the next world, the believers only +will enjoy good, and the kafer will be miserable." "You, +Yâkob," he proceeded, "are near the truth, very near, +and near Paradise, because you can read and write +Arabic, and understand our holy books."</p> + +<p>And so he went on preaching me a very orthodox +sermon. I asked him how God would dispose of those +who never read or heard of Mahomet or the Koran. He +couldn't tell. The same queries and objections are, +nevertheless, applicable to our own and to nearly all +religions, which make the condition of believing one +thing, and one class of doctrines, absolute for salvation. +The Touatee gold-merchant, who was close by at the +time, interposed, "You are near jinnah (Paradise), +Yâkob, one word only, 'There is no God but God, and +Mahomet is the prophet of God.'" I returned, "If this +be not uttered from the heart it is useless and mockery." +"By G—d! you are right, Yâkob," exclaimed the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-277" id="V2-277"></a>[<a href="images/2-277.png">277</a>]</span> +Shereef. Like most Mahometans, the Shereef says, +"The coming of Jesus is near, when he will destroy all +the enemies of God, Jews and Christians, and give the +world and its treasures into the hands of the Moslemites.<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: added missing quotation mark">"</ins> +I asked him why he represented all mankind but the +Moslemites to be the enemies of God? My mind always +recoils from the thought of arranging mankind, and marshalling +them forward, so many enemies of God, as if the +Eternal and Almighty Being who planned, formed, and +sustains the universal frame of nature, could have enemies! +Man may be the enemy of his fellow man, but +cannot be the enemy of God. The Shereef here did +not know what to say, and I think replied very properly, +<i>Allah Errahman Errahem</i>, "God is most merciful!" a +sentiment which all of us admit in spite of our peculiar +dogmas of theology. But this conversation offers nothing +new or different from those which I had with my taleb +Ben Mousa, at Ghadames.</p> + +<p>The Shereef then spoke about slavery, and asked me, +why the English forced the Bey of Tunis to abolish the +traffic in slaves. I explained the circumstances, adding, +the Bey was not forced, but only recommended, by the +English Government to abolish the slave traffic. He +then began a long story in palliation of the traffic, stating +that the slaves knew not God, and that in being enslaved +by the Mohammedans they were taught to know God. +I soon stopped his mouth, first, by telling him, the Turks +not long ago had enslaved the Arabs and sold them for +slaves at Constantinople, and then, adding, "Nearly all +the princes, whence the Soudanese and Bornouese slaves +were brought, are professedly Mahometans, as well as +their people." He acknowledged, however, slaves were<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-278" id="V2-278"></a>[<a href="images/2-278.png">278</a>]</span> +mostly procured by banditti hunting them, not captured +in war. He finished, "The Touaricks of Ghat formerly +hunted for slaves in the Tibboo country, twice or thrice +in the year, and in these razzia expeditions some would +get a booty of three, or five, six, ten, and twenty, +according as they were fortunate. Now they have other +business on hand, the war with the Shânbah. The +Touaricks of Aheer, those who bring the senna, are now +the great slave-hunters." The Shereef showed me a +Tibboo youth seized by the Aheer people. The Shereef's +account of the Touarghee razzias in the Tibboo country +is confirmed by the reports of our Bornou expedition, or +rather the Shereef confirms the reports of our countrymen. +Dr. Oudney says, "It is along these hills (the +ranges which go as far as the Tibboo country) the Touaricks +make their grassies (razzias) into the Tibboo country. +These two nations are almost always at war, and reciprocally +annoy each other by predatory warfare, stealing +camels, slaves, &c., killing only when resistance is made, +and never making prisoners." But, it must be observed, +Touaricks are never made slaves; they may be murdered +by the Tibboos. Not six months ago the Aheer Touaricks +captured a Tibboo village. The few who escaped +fled to the Arabs, under the son of Abd-el-Geleel, imploring +aid for the restoration of their countrymen and +property. These Arabs, who themselves mostly live on +freebooting, were glad of the opportunity for a razzia. +They recaptured everything, and restored the poor +Tibboos to their village, making also a capture of a +thousand camels from these Kylouy Touaricks.</p> + +<p>Enjoy better health in this journey, than on that from +Ghadames to Ghat. Felt myself stronger, and hope yet<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-279" id="V2-279"></a>[<a href="images/2-279.png">279</a>]</span> +to undertake the journey to Bornou before the summer +heats.</p> + +<p><i>15th.</i>—Course to-day nearly east. Encamped just +as the sun dipped down in the ruddy flame of the west. +Strong wind, blanching the sooty cheeks of the poor +slaves, who were borne down with exhaustion. They +were literally whipped along. And the little fellow who +refused a ride from me, got a whipping for sitting on the +sand to rest himself. I now made him mount my +camel, which his master, not a bad-natured man, thanked +me for. All day we continued to traverse the vast +plain, having on our right the same chain of hills, and, +on the left, the sand groups, as far as the eye could see. +These broad, now boundless plains, or valleys, are unquestionably +the dry beds of former currents. Even +now our people called them wadys or rivers. The chain +of mountains and the chain of sand-hills are their natural +banks. The tholh-tree was most abundant to-day. I +never saw it so thickly scattered before. It was spread +over all the plain, now in single trees, and now in forest +groups, which were also magnified in the distance, and +had a grateful and refreshing effect upon the vision, +wearied with looking on stones or gravel, or bare +desert, or black rocks and glaring sand-hills. Unquestionably +these trees of the African are as old as those of +the American wilderness. The tholh-trees of the dry +thirsty African plain are however but dwarfs compared +with the giant trees of the American forest, watered by +ocean rivers. The tholh would seem to live without +moisture: it is fed by no annual or periodic rain, no +springs. And yet it buds, opens its pretty yellow +flowers, sheds its fine large drops of translucent gum,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-280" id="V2-280"></a>[<a href="images/2-280.png">280</a>]</span> +flourishes all the year round, and tempts with its prickly +leaves as with richest herbage, the hungry camel. Indeed, +about this part of the route the camels get nothing +else to feed on. We have seen no living creatures these +last five days. On one part of our route our people +pretended to trace the sand-prints of the wadan, and +others affirmed them to be the foot-marks of the wild-ox. +I must except the sight of a few small birds, black +all over but the tails. Some one or two had white +heads, as well as white tails. People say these birds +drink no water, as they say many animals of The Sahara +drink no water. The little creatures certainly do not +drink much water. Two or three dead camels thrown +across the route of this day's march. The live camels +usually turn off the way from them. Several Saharan +mosques, the form of a cross being made in the Keblah <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: added word 'on' to text">on</ins> +one of them, as seen in the diagrams.</p> + +<p>The Shereef's ideas of the Touaricks are not so +favourable as those of his uncle, the Governor of Ghat, +and in some respects they are more correct. The Shereef +says:—"The Touaricks are not of the Arabian race. +They are the original inhabitants of Africa (Numidians). +Their language is a Berber dialect. They are a race +generally of bandits, and, when their food fails them, +like famished wolves, they make irruptions into their +neighbour's territory, and plunder what is before them. +This they do in small bodies, when camel's milk fails +them at home. The Aheer Touaricks are of the same +race as those of Ghat. Many of those of Aheer have +no fear of God, and never pray like the rest of professed +Mohammedans. Those of Ghat are perhaps the +best of the Touaricks, and the most religious. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-281" id="V2-281"></a>[<a href="images/2-281.png">281</a>]</span> +Touaricks of Touat encircle those of Ghat, lying across +the route of Timbuctoo. Their Sultan's name is Bassa, +a giant of The Desert. He eats as much as ten men. +He is the terror of all. But Jabour knows him, and +enjoys his friendship and confidence. The road from +Ghat to Timbuctoo, through Bassa's territory, is extremely +short. It is stony, through high mountains, +and intensely cold. Springs of water abound there." +Such are the ideas and opinions of the Shereef on the +Touaricks. The mountains of the route alluded to, are +the grand nucleus of the Hagar, which intersect and +ramify through all Central Sahara. The Shereef, and +some others travelling with us, delight in paradoxes, and +maintain, in spite of Haj Ibrahim, who has been to +Constantinople and seen the Sultan of the Turks, that +there is no Sultan now, the administration at the Turkish +capital being in the hands of Christians.</p> + +<p>The Shereef now invited me to dine with him from +bazeen, and when I sat down, kept addressing me:—"Eat +plenty!" But only think of three grown men +sitting down to a small paste dumpling, with a little +melted butter poured over it, and the host crying out +lustily to me:—"Eat plenty!" Such, indeed, was our +repast! Of course, returning to my encampment, I ate +my supper as if nothing had happened to me. And this +little dumpling supper is the only meal in the day which +our people eat. Well may they cry out about the cold, +and pray for the heat. In a hot day a man is supposed +to eat half the quantity which he does in a cold day. I +am, therefore, still of the same opinion as before expressed, +that the sufferings of these people, who travel in +Sahara, are enormously increased from their want of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-282" id="V2-282"></a>[<a href="images/2-282.png">282</a>]</span> +sufficient food and clothing. As to clothing, many of +them, in this trying season, go half-naked.</p> + +<p>Some of our Arabs, who make bazeen for a large +party, have a scientific way for its cooking and preparation. +On the Ghat route a young Arab was accustomed +to fill up three parts of a large iron pot with water. +This water he would boil, throwing into it the meanwhile +peppers, sliced onions, and occasionally, as a luxury, +very small pieces of dried meat, or scraps from +which fat had been strained. The pot having boiled +until the onions and peppers were soft, he now brings +the meal, mostly barley-meal, but sometimes coarse +wheaten flour. This he pours into the pot, forming a +sort of pyramid in the boiling water. He then gets a +stick, mostly a walking-stick, pretending first to scrape +off the dirt, or rubbing it in the sand; with the stick so +polished, he makes a hole in the centre of the pyramid +of meal, through which the water bubbles up and circulates +through the mealy mass, now fast cooking. He +now gets two small pieces of stick, and puts them into +the ears of the iron pot, which generally are burning hot. +He removes with the pieces of stick the pot from off the +fire, and places it on the sand. He now squats down +over it, putting his two feet, or rather the great toes of +the feet, one on each ear of the pot, which gives him a +poise, or sort of fulcrum. And then, again, taking the +long stick, he stirs it up with all his might, round and +round and round again, until all the water is absorbed in +the pudding-like meal, and the meal is thus well mixed +into a sort of dough. However this dough is not unbaked +paste, but a <i>bonâ-fide</i> dumpling, cooked and +ready for the sauce. Now comes the wash wherewith<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-283" id="V2-283"></a>[<a href="images/2-283.png">283</a>]</span> +to wash it down. My young Arab friend takes the +dumpling, or pudding, in a great round mass, and +places it within a huge wooden bowl. He then goes +off for the oil, or liquid butter, which is usually kept +in a large leather bottle, or goat's-skin, with a long +neck. He does not pour the oil out, but thrusts one of +his hands into the oil, and, taking it out, with his other +hand rubs or squeezes off the oil over the mass of dumpling. +When he has got enough, he sets to and sucks his +fingers, as the great reward of all his labour in preparing +the supper of bazeen for his companions. Once he did +not sufficiently squeeze off the oil from his hands, and +his uncle scolded him for leaving so much on to suck. +He protested to his uncle that the bazeen had taken him +an unusually long time to prepare<a name="FNa_2-36" id="FNa_2-36"></a><a href="#FoN_2-36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a>. The supper is now +ready. The party squat round it on their hams. They +dig into the mass with their fingers, after saying aloud, +as grace, <i>Bismillah</i>, "In the name of God," before they +begin supper. Digging thus into it, they make small +or large balls, according to the measure of their jaws, +which are generally sufficiently wide, or according to the +sharpness or dulness of their appetite. These balls they +roll and roll over in the oil or sauce that is often +made of a herb called hada, or âseedah, a pleasant +bitter, and producing a yellow decoction, (whence the +bazeen is sometimes called,) which enables the large<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-284" id="V2-284"></a>[<a href="images/2-284.png">284</a>]</span> +boluses to slip quietly and gratefully down the throat. +Meanwhile a jug of water is handed round, provided +always there is any difficulty in getting down the balls; +but mostly the water is handed round after the eating. +It is drunk with a <i>bismallah</i>, and then a <i>hamdullah</i>, or +"praise to God," the grace after meat, winds up and +finishes the repast.</p> + +<p>The business of the caravan and its affairs of encampment +are always terminated before supper. So the +dumpling or pudding-fed travellers now roll themselves +up in their barracans, covering their faces entirely, and +stretch themselves down on the ground to sleep, frequently +not moving from the place where they ate their +supper. There is generally a mat or skin under them, +and they lie down under the shade of the bales of goods +which their camels carry. The first thing on encamping +is to look for the direction of the wind, and so to arrange +bales of goods, panniers, and camel gear, as to protect +the head from the wind. In this way one often lies +very snug whilst the tempest howls through The Desert. +People like to retain the taste of the pudding in their +mouths, particularly if a little fat or oil be poured over +it. I once gave an Arab some coffee after his pudding-supper, +which he drank with avidity, but afterwards began +to abuse me. "Yâkob, what is your coffee? I'm +hungry, I'm ravenous. Why, before I drank your coffee, +my supper was up to the top of my throat, but now +I want to begin my supper again. I'll never drink any +more of your coffee, so don't bring it here." A little +more cuscasou is eaten on this route than on that of +Ghat from Ghadames, the Fezzaneers and Tripolines +preferring coarse cuscasou to bazeen if they can get it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-285" id="V2-285"></a>[<a href="images/2-285.png">285</a>]</span> +The poor Arabs are often obliged to put up with zumeetah, +which they eat cold. Haj Ibrahim eats his fine +cuscasou, which he brought from Tripoli, but I do not +consider him a <i>bonâ-fide</i> Saharan merchant. This is his +first trip in The Desert.</p> + +<p><i>6th.</i>—Rose as the day broke, with a hazy yellow tint +over half the heavens, and started early in order to reach +the well before night. Very cold, and continued so all +day long. Felt my nerves braced, and liked cold better +than heat. In proportion as I liked the cold, all my +travelling companions disliked this weather; all were +shivering and crumpled up creatures. The slaves suffered +dreadfully, having shivering-fits and their eyes streaming +with water. However, I could not help laughing at +the Shereef and the Touatee, who kept crying out, as if +in pain, "<i>Mou zain el-berd</i> (Not good is the cold!)" +And, to make it worse, they both rode all day, by which +they felt the cold more. On the contrary, I walked +full three hours, and scarcely felt myself fatigued. Indeed, +to-day, I was decidedly the best man of the caravan, +and suffered less than any. I always walk an hour +and a half every morning. But my Ghadames shoes, +that I'm anxious to preserve, are fast wearing out, which +spoils some of the pleasure. The small stones of Desert +soon cut and wear out a pair of soles, which are made of +untanned camel's skin. Observed to the Shereef, to tease +him, "Why, you Mussulmans don't know what is good. +Your legs and feet are bare. You have nothing wrapt +tight round your chest. Your woollens are pervious to +the cold air. You're half naked; but for myself, I'm +clothed from head to foot, only a small portion of my +face is exposed. You must go to the Christians to learn<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-286" id="V2-286"></a>[<a href="images/2-286.png">286</a>]</span> +how to travel The Desert." "The Christians are devils," +he returned, "and can bear cold and heat like the Father +of the imps in his house (perdition)." "Mou zain, el-berd," +cried the Touatee. Yesterday and this morning +the slaves were oiled all over with olive-oil, to prevent +their skin and flesh from cracking with the cold. This +is a frequent practice, and reckoned a sovereign remedy. +Hot oil is also often swallowed. Boiling oil is a favourite +remedy in North Africa for many diseases. The +poor slaves were again driven on by the whip. We +reached the well just after sunset. Haj Ibrahim rode far +in advance on his maharee to see that the well was all +right, our water being exhausted. Happily the weather +prevented any great absorption of its water. When the +slaves got up, having suffered much to-day from thirst, +although so cold, they rushed upon the water to drink, +kneeling on the sands, and five or six putting their +heads in a bowl of water together. I myself had only +drunk two cups of tea this morning, Said having given +the slaves all the water we had left. To-day's march +convinced me that thirst may be felt as painfully on a +cold day as on a hot day.</p> + +<p>Course, north-east, inclining to east. Met with some +Fezzanee Touaricks, who were a very different class of +people from those of Ghat and Aheer. They are simple +shepherds, tending their flocks, mostly goats, in open +Desert, which browse the scanty herbage of the plain. +The mountain chain on our right continues north with +us. We found in our route the blood and filth of a camel +just killed. Dead or killed camels, are generally found +near the wells on the last day's journey, after having +made five or six days' forced marches to reach them. It<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-287" id="V2-287"></a>[<a href="images/2-287.png">287</a>]</span> +is here they're knocked up, going continually and most +patiently to the last moment of their strength, when they +expire at once.</p> + +<p>Teenabunda or "Well of Bunda," is a well of sweet +delicious water. It is some thirty or forty feet deep. +There is nothing to mark the site of the well from the +surrounding plain, nor palm tree, nor shrub, nor herbage +of any kind. An accident alone could have discovered +this well. Some stones are placed about in the form of +seats, and one can easily see where there has once been +a fire from the sign or circumstance of three stones +being placed triangularly, leaving a small space between +them for the fire. These three stones also support the +pot for cooking, as well as inclose the fire. This evening +took some bazeen with the Ghadamsee merchants. They +are fond of showing me this little mark of hospitality. +However the same thing was enacted as at the Shereef's +supper. Three grown-up persons sat down to the one +day's meal, a smallish dumpling, seasoned with highly +peppered sauce of hada, and a little fat. It is quite +absurd to call this a supper for three persons; it is +mocking European appetite. How they live in this way +I cannot comprehend.</p> + +<p><i>17th.</i>—Rose early, but did not start until the sun had +two hours mounted the horizon. We usually start half +an hour after sunrise. Weather fair and fine, a cool +breeze and hot sun, which is suitable for the middle of +the day. I do not feel it at all oppressive. Continued +north-east. We now caught a glimpse of the palms of +The Wady. But here we overtook our Tripoline friends, +who had left Ghat ten days before us and were waiting +for our arrival. They conducted us to their encamp<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-288" id="V2-288"></a>[<a href="images/2-288.png">288</a>]</span>ment. +The party consisted of Mustapha, an Alexandrian +merchant of Tripoli, and another merchant, having with +them some sixty slaves. When our slaves arrived these +ran out to meet them, welcoming them in a most affectionate +manner as old friends. In fact, most of them +had been companions in the route from Aheer to Ghat, +sharing one another's burthens and sufferings, helping to +alleviate their mutual pains. After being separated and +sold to different masters, never expecting to see one +another again, it is not surprising there should have +been such a tender and affectionate meeting of the poor +things. I shall not soon forget the sight of two little +girls who unexpectedly met after being sold to different +masters and separated some weeks. The little creatures +seized hold of one another's hands, then each took the +the head of each other with the palms of the hand, +pressing its side, in the meanwhile kissing one another +passionately and sobbing aloud. And yet those brutal +republicans of America,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Whose fustian flag of freedom, waves</span> +<span class="i0">In mockery o'er a land of slaves—"</span> +</div></div> + +<p>have the devilish cruelty to continue to stigmatize, by +their laws of equality and liberty, the Africans as goods +and chattels, depriving them of their divine right of +sentient and intellectual beings, having all the tenderest +and holiest affections of humanity. These poor little girls +were quite unobserved by their masters or drivers, who +were now occupied with the rakas or courier, who had +brought letters from Tripoli in answer to ours sent some +time ago. The news is good for the merchants; the +Pasha will not exact the customs-dues of Fezzan on those<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-289" id="V2-289"></a>[<a href="images/2-289.png">289</a>]</span> +who return this route, on account of the war between the +Shânbah and Touaricks.</p> + +<p>Near the well Haj Omer beckoned me to show me +what he called, "water-courses of Christians," ancient +irrigating ducts of the people of former times. These +consisted of raised banks of earth, stretching across the +road to the mountains on the right. Along these lines of +embankment were large fields of cultivation, showing +the country had declined in its agricultural industry, +which, indeed, is manifest from every oasis I have yet +seen in The Sahara. It is probable these earlier or ancient +cultivators of the soil were colonies from the +coast. Omer also pointed out at a distance, what he +styled "The tombs of Christians," on the sides of the +mountains, scattered miles along, showing The Desert to +have been cultivated to a far greater extent in past +times.</p> + +<p>Our route from Ghat to Fezzan is good enough perhaps +for man, being simple and plain, easily traversed, +generally on level surfaces, but it is very bad for animals, +there being scarcely any herbage, except at Serdalas, and +the Ghat Wadys. Our camels had little herbage for +seven days, which greatly tried their strength and +endurance. The caravan we now joined had lost two +camels, and I was afraid for my nagah. Water they had +none for six days. The Soudan sheep also went without +water those six long days. Our route is thus mentioned +by Dr. Oudney: "There are several routes to +Ghat (from Mourzuk); and the upper one, where we had +to enter the hills, was last night fixed for us. There is +plenty of water, but more rough than the lower, which +is said to be a sandy plain, as level as the hand, but no<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-290" id="V2-290"></a>[<a href="images/2-290.png">290</a>]</span> +water for five days." Travelling with slaves, a route is +always extended one-fifth, at the very least: such was +our case.</p> + +<p>Afternoon, we encamped at the mouth of the wady, +weary, thirsty, and exhausted, which forcibly brought to +my mind that oasis of rest, (wearied and disgusted, as +I felt with Saharan travel,) so divinely described in +Desert pastoral style: +<ins class="grk" title="Greek: oude mê pesê ep autous ho hêlios, oude pan kauma . . . . kai hodêgêsei autous epi zôsas pêgas hydatôn.">ουδε μη πεσῃ επ' αυτους ὁ ἥλιος, ουδε παν καυμα . . . . και ὁδηγησει αυτους επι ζωσας πηγας ὑδατων.</ins> +(Rev vii. 16, 17.) We have in these +divine words the smiting and parching of Saharan sun +and heat, and the Lamb-Shepherd leading the drooping +flocks to the living life-giving springs of the oases of +Desert.</p> + +<p>Our people called the series of little oases, which we +now entered, <i>El-Wady</i>. But this term is hardly sufficiently +distinctive, and, I think in the general division of +Fezzan, it is called <i>El-Wady Ghurby</i>—<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads '‮الوادي القري‬'">‮الوادي الغربي‬</ins>—or +"The <i>Western</i> Valley," in contra-distinction from <i>El-Wady +Esh-Sherky</i>, "The <i>Eastern</i> Valley."</p> + +<p><i>18th.</i>—Entered fully into The Wady this morning. +After so much Desert, was delighted to ecstasy with the +refreshing sight of the distant forests of palms, crowd +upon crowd in deepening foliage, their graceful heads +covering the face of the pale red horizon, as with hanging +raven locks of some beautiful woman. Saw a few +huts of date branches, some wells, and here and there a +villager. The huts were so blended with the date-palms, +in colour and make, that it was with difficulty our eye +could catch sight of them. I am often astonished how these +slight, feeble tenements can protect the people from the +sun and cold and wind. It is like living in open Desert.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-291" id="V2-291"></a>[<a href="images/2-291.png">291</a>]</span> +When we had continued our course some two hours, the +Sheikh of the district came running out after us, demanding +the customs-dues, and attempting to stop the slaves +for payment. "What does this fellow want?" I said to +our people, feeling myself now under the protection of +the Tripoline government, and knowing the Sheikh to be +subjected to the Bey of Mourzuk. They replied, "Oh, +he wants some slaves to work at the water (by irrigation)." +The Sheikh would not be said "nay." He +demanded to see the teskera of the Pasha exempting us +from the duties, which he could not, as Haj Ibrahim was +gone to purchase dates. He then commenced seizing +slaves, but our Arabs now attacked him, pushing and +dragging him away. These people are mighty fond of a +little scuffling. We encamped for the night in The +Wady. More "Tombs of Christians" were pointed +out to me. Many dwarf palms were scattered about, +wild and producing no fruit. Water may be under the +surface. Our people say these palms would all bear +fruit if cultivated and watered. Undoubtedly many +more could be cultivated. There are innumerable palms +in this wild dwarf state. My nagah growled and grumbled +on seeing the palms, rightly concluding that we were +arrived in an inhabited country. These melancholy-looking +creatures are extremely wise. The other evening +we had great trouble to get the nagah to eat herbage +when she was brought to the encampment. She had +for her supper every evening a few dates and barley +for several successive days. Now we left off giving her +them on arriving at The Wady, where there was abundant +herbage. This she resented, and grumbled nearly all +night, keeping us from sleeping, and would not eat the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-292" id="V2-292"></a>[<a href="images/2-292.png">292</a>]</span> +herbage. On encamping, the camels are allowed to stray +and graze an hour or two, and are then brought up to +the encampment for the night, the drivers cutting a little +herbage for them to eat during the night, or in the +morning before starting. Like us, more intelligent brutes, +the camels don't like starting on a journey with an empty +stomach.</p> + +<p>Haj Ibrahim expressed surprise that I had with me +religious books. He thought the English had "no +books," (that is, religious books.) Some Christians in +Tripoli (Roman Catholics) had told him the English +people had no books. He then observed to me, that it +was wrong to worship Mary, who was not God, or the +mother of God, for God had no mother or father. And +although the French and Maltese, in Tripoli, had told +him the English had a bad religion, it could not, he +observed, be a worse religion than this, that of worshiping +a woman instead of God. Of Mary, he continued, +"She was a good woman, and conceived without a +husband. Mary merely wished to bear a child, and as +it was a pious wish, God granted her request, and by a +simple word she conceived and bore Jesus." Of slaves, +the merchant, says:—"They are brought from all +countries of Soudan, nearly a thousand countries. Only +a few slaves captured or brought to the Souk are Mussulmans, +they're nearly all Pagans. Mussulmans make +war against infidels to get prisoners, as we and you did +formerly; the Maltese<a name="FNa_2-37" id="FNa_2-37"></a><a href="#FoN_2-37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> and English made us slaves, and +we made you slaves. Some of the slaves are Christians,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-293" id="V2-293"></a>[<a href="images/2-293.png">293</a>]</span> +(<i>i. e.</i> Pagans,) and some are Jews." I was much interested, +and questioned the merchant about this latter +remark, when a Negro slave, who had been lately to +Soudan with his master, observed, "The black Jews keep +the Sabbath, and get drunk on that day. They drink +bouza (or grain liquor). They also circumcise as we +Mohammedans." It is probable these Negro Jews are +the corrupt descendants of the converts of Abyssinian +Jews, who ages ago penetrated Central Africa <i>viâ</i> the +provinces of Darfour and Kordofan, and the countries +lying on the two great branches of the sources of the +Nile. In the beginning of our era, we hear of the +Eunuch of the "Queen of the South<a name="FNa_2-38" id="FNa_2-38"></a><a href="#FoN_2-38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a>," or of Abyssinia, +who was a Jew, and converted by Philip to Christianity. +There is therefore no manner of difficulty in accounting +for the presence of these corrupt degenerate black Jews, +amongst the tribes of Central Africa.</p> + +<p>Two little girl-slaves were barbarously whipped this +evening for eating hasheesh (herbage), which they picked +up on the roadside. This was done to prevent them +having diarrhœa, and eating poisonous herbs. It was +nevertheless what they had been taught to do on the +Aheer route, and there could not be very much harm in +picking up a little fresh juicy herbage, to appease their +thirst during the heat of the day's march. The slaves <i>en +route</i> are only permitted to drink twice in the day, +once at noon, and once in the evening. When our supply +of water is scanty, only once a day.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-294" id="V2-294"></a>[<a href="images/2-294.png">294</a>]</span></p> +<p><i>19th.</i>—This morning made but three hours' journey +through The Wady Oases. We had not proceeded an +hour <i>en route</i>, when the same farce was attempted to be +played upon us as yesterday; three or four people +coming galloping up to us to stop us, in order to collect +the customs-dues. This they did a second time, after +letting us go on once. I was determined now to show I +was not a slave-dealer, and would not be stopped to suit +their caprice, for we told them we had a teskera from the +Pasha, exempting us from the gomerick. Proceeding +forwards with Said, one of the party, a fellow on horse-back, +stopped my nagah, seized her, and commenced +beating Said. I instantly jumped off, exclaiming, "I'm +an Englishman—a Christian, and not a slave-dealer; I +have nothing on which to pay duties, and will not be +stopped." Our people bawled out likewise, "The +Christian has nothing for the gomerick, he has no +slaves." The fellow gave Said another rap with his +sword on his attempting to rescue our camel. Hereupon, +losing all patience, I took the spear, and with the +flat part of its head gave the fellow a tolerable blow on +the shoulders. Now followed a desperate scuffle, the +first I had had in The Desert. The fellow screaming +out, suddenly maddened to fury, drew his sword, and +made a thrust at me, but the blow was turned by the +shaft of my lance. Our people now seized hold of him +and me. A little more scuffling went on, and getting +clear of the grasp of our people, I made off in advance, +with Said, alone. After continuing half an hour through +the palm-woods, we turned and saw the whole caravan +coming up quickly after us. The party who stopped us +had consented to let the caravan follow me. Haj<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-295" id="V2-295"></a>[<a href="images/2-295.png">295</a>]</span> +Ibrahim, who had the Pasha's teskera, was again absent, +having gone to purchase more dates. If the fellow had +not been very impudent and violent, inflicting blows on +Said, I should not have committed this folly of forcing +my way, for, after all, it was great imprudence on my +part, and might have been attended with very serious +consequences.</p> + +<p>When the caravan came up, I said, in hearing of our +people, to the fellow who was still following them, "If +you had struck my servant in Tripoli, the Pasha would +have put you in prison. This is not Touarghee country, +but a country where there is a government. This country +belongs to Tripoli and the Sultan. Your violence was +equally improper and unnecessary." All applauded this, +and our champion of the sword said nothing in reply. +After arriving at the small district of Blad Marabouteen, +or "a country of Marabouts," we encamped for +the day. The fellow, who turned out to be an Egyptian, +a petty officer of the Porte, and Kaed of the district +through which we passed, now came to me, sat down by +my side, and made it up. I then observed to him, "It's +all nonsense." The Egyptian laughed and I laughed. +He kept seizing me by the hand, and exclaiming with +vehemence, "Gagliuffi! Gagliuffi! ah! that's a fine fellow! +Gagliuffi at Mourzuk." Again the Egyptian laughed, and +screamed with frantic gesticulations, and our people +coming up were also merry with him. "Ah!" he continued, +"Gagliuffi, a real cock of the dunghill, a noble +fellow, Gagliuffi! Do you know Gagliuffi?" I said I +did not. This he couldn't understand, and said, "Ah, +Gagliuffi has got plenty of money, he's the Bashaw of +Mourzuk. Every time you go to see him he gives you<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-296" id="V2-296"></a>[<a href="images/2-296.png">296</a>]</span> +coffee." Another Fezzaneer, standing by, swore to this: +"Gagliuffi is the Bey! Gagliuffi has got plenty of money." +Afterwards I reported this affair to Mr. Gagliuffi, our +Vice-Consul at Mourzuk. He was greatly amused and +flattered at the report of his wealth and consequence. +He observed, "Although I'm poor enough, God knows, +it's better that these people should think me rich." The +Egyptian was commanding a small force of Arabs in +The Wady. I learnt from him, the Vice-Consul had +been sick lately, but was now better. In The Wady +there is fever during summer, but not much now. The +Kaed, I saw in conversing with him, had been drinking +leghma, and was "elevated," which sufficiently accounted +for his interrupting our march, and the violence of his +conduct. Our people say, he wished us to encamp in +his district, to amuse himself with us. They continued +all the evening to praise my spirit for resisting the +fellow's impertinence in his stopping us. "To-day you +were a man, Yâkob," they kept repeating. I explained, +"Fear, where fear is necessary, as in the Touarghee districts. +There we must bow the head, for resistance +would be dangerous. But here, in the country of the +Sultan, why should we fear?" This speech greatly +pleased our people, who themselves had not been detained +by the Kaed, on account of my forcing the way. Upon +the whole, this ludicrous affray raised my reputation for +(physical) courage amongst the people. For moral +courage I always take credit to myself. It is nevertheless, +a very delicate thing in Saharan travel to know +when and where resistance is to be offered against imposition: +and perhaps, it is better to give way always +than to resist, leaving the matters of dispute (of this<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-297" id="V2-297"></a>[<a href="images/2-297.png">297</a>]</span> +sort especially) to be settled by the caravan with which +you travel.</p> + +<p>The united caravans will remain here some eight or +ten days, to give rest to the slaves, as well as to obtain +fresh provisions. To-morrow morning I go early to +Mourzuk, which is two days from The Wady. Tripoli is +distant from The Wady, fifteen, seventeen, or twenty +days, according to the progress of the caravan. The +route lies direct <i>viâ</i> Shaty, four days' distant from this, +and Mizdah, in the mountains (Gharian), ten or twelve +days, and thence three days more to Tripoli. The route +from El-Wady to Shaty consists of groups of sand-hills, +of painful traverse. Shaty itself is a series of oases. +Between El-Hasee and El-Ghareeah, which now follow, +there is an immeasurable expanse of Desert plain. The +Atlas Mountains then succeed with their bubbling fountains +and green valleys, and olive-clad peaks. Mizdah +in The Mountains consists of two large villages.</p> + +<p>Saw several of the inhabitants of The Wady, and +made acquaintance with the Fezzaneers, as they have +been called. Some of them are as black as negroes, +others as white as the Moors of the coast, others olive, +yellow, brown, &c., and their features are various as the +colour of their complexions. The Fezzaneers must be +considered Moors and townspeople, rather than Arabs +or nomades. Houses in The Wady are of palm-branches, +and some of sun-dried mud-bricks, but mostly miserable +hovels, the very picture of wretchedness. We passed a +village entirely abandoned, (Kelah, as the people said,) +apparently from the failure of water. Palms in The +Wady are not very fine. There are many patches of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-298" id="V2-298"></a>[<a href="images/2-298.png">298</a>]</span> +cultivation of grain and vegetables. Water is found +near the surface, and the wells are numerous.</p> + +<p><i>20th.</i>—I left our caravan early this morning for +Mourzuk. On taking leave of my companions of travel +they begged me to come back, and continue the route +with them to Tripoli. Could only promise in the style +of En-Shallah, "If God wills," for I had long made up +my time not to return. Should the Bornou route be +favourable, I might go up before the hot weather came +on; if not, I intend returning <i>viâ</i> Sockna to Tripoli, +"the royal road," wishing to see as much as possible of +the inhabitants of the oases of The Sahara, on which +route were many centres of population. My companions, +from whom I had received nothing but kindness, continued +to call after me, "Come back, Yâkob," until our +little company was out of sight. I thought this extremely +friendly, and another instance of the unadulterated +kindness of heart found in Saharan traders. Our +course now lay somewhat back again, we proceeding +south-east. We had to cut through the mountains which +had been so long on our right. The range still continued +north up The Wady, but how far I cannot tell. +I believe no European whatever has travelled the route +<i>viâ</i> Shaty and Mizdah, to Tripoli. As we ascended +through the gorge or break in the chain, "the tombs of +the Christians" were again pointed out to me, or rather the +burying-places of the earlier inhabitants of these regions. +All the early inhabitants, or those before the Mohammedan +conquest of Africa, are vulgarly called Ensara by +Moors. These tombs consist simply of circular heaps of +stones, picked up from the rocks around. Some are<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-299" id="V2-299"></a>[<a href="images/2-299.png">299</a>]</span> +large, perhaps a dozen yards in circumference. Mounting +one, I found it hollow at the top; the stones had +been merely heaped up in a circular ring. Within was +a little sand settled, collected from the wind when it +scatters the sand about. There was no appearance of +bones, or any inscriptions. The whole mountain range +of The Wady, I am told, has heaps of stones piled up in +this way. There is no doubt but what they are the +graves of former inhabitants.</p> + +<p>The question to be solved is, why are these graves +of this circular form? why heaps or rings of stones thus +heaped up, so different from the long square graves now +met with in all North Africa and The Desert? The +form of these tumuli evidently denote another people, +or at least a people of another religion. Where there +are tombs there are legends of the dead. My travelling +companions now related to me, that there appears not +unfrequently, and mostly at midnight, when the moon +has but a narrow dim circlet, a solitary Christian, who +flits mournfully through these solitudes, now and then +sitting on the circular tombs, now peeping from within +the rings of stones, his chin resting on the edge. His +aspect is hideous, and he has one big burning eye-ball in +the middle of his forehead. His skin (for he is naked) is +covered with long hair, like a shaggy goat (a species of +satyr), and two tusks come out of his mouth, like those +of a wild boar. A holy Marabout once met him, and +interrogated him courageously about his doleful doings +amongst these graves. The spectre deigned this answer, +"I mourn the fall of my fellow-Christians and the +triumph of the Faithful over the Infidels. The Devil +makes me come here. I shall wander until the appear<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-300" id="V2-300"></a>[<a href="images/2-300.png">300</a>]</span>ance +of Gog and Magog upon the earth, and then shall +be yoked to their chariot, and go out and conquer the +world, and kill the Faithful. But I shall be tormented +afterwards. Such is my doom: I can't help it." It is +said the Marabout pitied him, and prayed to God for +him, but it was revealed to the holy man in a dream, +not to pray for lost spirits, whom Heaven's decrees had +irrevocably doomed to perdition.</p> + +<p>There was also another legend related to me by the +Fezzan Targhee, who was now my guide through this +dreary gorge, full of the tombs of the dead. It is too +long to repeat. Suffice it to say that, whilst his +great-grandfather and other shepherds were tending their +flocks on the subjected plains below, a troop of these +Christians broke <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'lose'">loose</ins> from the dark caverns in the mountains, +where they are chained, and began to abuse and +banter the shepherds, because they did not say, "There +are three Gods." The shepherds withstood the temptation +and the terror of their countenances, although +they, the shepherds, exceedingly quaked. The Christians, +in their rage against the shepherds professing so constantly +the Unity of God, dispersed their flocks, drove +them into the caverns, and disappeared together with +the flocks. But the angel Gabriel descended from +heaven, and blessed the faithful shepherds, led them on +many miles to a desert place, where there were three +tholh-trees which had been planted by these reprobate +Spirits in adoration to The Three Gods. Now the +number of shepherds also happened to be three. The +good Gabriel told them to cut down the trees, and burn +them separately. The shepherds did so, and for their +obedience, from beneath the ashes a great cake of molten<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-301" id="V2-301"></a>[<a href="images/2-301.png">301</a>]</span> +gold came pouring out. "These cakes are the Gods of +the Christians; there are three of these cakes," said +Gabriel. "Take each one, and go, and trade to Soudan," +added the angelical messenger; and then in a bright +cloud ascended over the top of the mountains. It so +happened that his great-grandfather thought three was +a lucky number, and wished to become a Christian, +whereupon God caused a troop of banditti to fall upon +his caravan, who plundered him of everything, and +reduced him again to beggary. Such are the tales of +Marabouts of The Sahara, quite a match for the legends +of our Monks of the good and happy olden times.</p> + +<p>As these legends finished, we got up to the top of the +range, when a cold bleak wind cut our faces, coming +north-east over the plateau, which to my surprise now +appeared. I expected to find a descent, or another +rounded side of the chain. But all east was a bare, +bleak, black plateau, as hideous as desolation could +render it, according well with the scenery of the desolate +grave-stones we had just seen, and the woeful tales +about them we had heard. It was the veritable beach +of the river Styx. I turned with a chill of horror from +the waste back again upon the valley which we had +left. How different the view! Here we beheld the ten +thousand fair waving palms, which cover the green bosom +of The Wady,—a paradise encircled with ridges and +outlines of the most frightful sterility. We now +mounted our camels, for it was necessary to face also +this new desert. I greatly perspired with the labour of +the ascent, and now caught a cold, and had a bilious +attack, the only time I was seriously unwell during my +nine months in The Desert, and strange enough that it<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-302" id="V2-302"></a>[<a href="images/2-302.png">302</a>]</span> +should be occasioned by cold. Our party consisted of +myself and Said, the Targhee guide, and Mustapha, the +Tripoline Moor, who was going to purchase provisions, +and borrow money at Mourzuk. These merchants so ill +manage their affairs, that they were nearly out of +provisions for their some hundred and odd slaves, +themselves and servants, and besides had no money to +replenish their stock. Our course was now east verging +to the south. On the plain I saw the last of the +Touaricks, and it was a noble sight. This was a Targhee +Scout, scouring The Desert in search of the Shânbah, +well-equipped and mounted on his maharee. He was +returning south-west to Ghat, taking the route over the +mountains which we had just ascended.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill2-11.jpg"><img src="images/ill2-11_th.jpg" alt="Targhee Scout" title="Targhee Scout" /></a></p> + +<p>After a few hours we again descended into a small +shallow wady, where was a little herbage. We continued +all day, and endeavoured to reach a part of the +plateau, where were some Fezzan Touaricks tending their<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-303" id="V2-303"></a>[<a href="images/2-303.png">303</a>]</span> +flocks, and where it was said we should get milk and a +kid of the goat to kill and eat. The whole of the day it +was cold, and the wind piercing, which I attributed to +the elevated region we traversed. On arriving at a thin +scattered forest of tholh-trees we stopped, but being +most unusually exhausted by the fatigue of the ride, +and the attack of the bile, I could not dismount from my +camel, and was lifted off. We searched a long time for +the shepherds, and at length their flocks were discovered. +I took a little tea, and surrendered myself to rest and +to sleep, not being able to eat anything. My companions +pretended to seek out and purchase a kid, but unless +you furnish the money, nothing of this luxurious sort is +ever obtained in The Desert. I had no money, and we +had no kid. Meanwhile our people, who had only brought +with them dates, ate up my little stock of cuscasou. +I had only laid in a sufficient quantity for some fifteen +days, from Ghat to Mourzuk. Passed a bad night, and +greatly relaxed.</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i>—Up to this time I had always travelled through +The Desert with a large number of persons. Our party +was now only four. And yet I felt no fear, and went to +bed last night in open desert with as much indifference +as if I had been in a hotel in Europe. Such is the +force of habit. The Desert itself now even begins to +wear a homely face to me, and, indeed, for the present, I +am obliged to make it my home. We rose early, and I +found myself a little better. At the time I attributed +my illness to the water of The Wady, but which was incorrect. +Before starting, I obtained a bowl of sour milk. +To my surprise I saw only women tending these flocks. I +asked about their husbands. They were gone away to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-304" id="V2-304"></a>[<a href="images/2-304.png">304</a>]</span> +work in Ghat, Fezzan, and other parts. Here were three +or four adult women, and a few children, wandering solitarily +in Open Desert! Not a habitation was near for many +miles round! I could not help exclaiming, "Are you +not afraid of robbers?" "No," replied an aged woman, +"I have been here all my life, and shall die here. Why +go away? What better shall I find in Mourzuk or +Ghat? Can they give me more than milk? More than +milk I care not for. And God is here as elsewhere!" +Let the reader picture to his mind's eye, three or four +lone females, with a child or two, wandering over a +sandy plain, tending amongst a thinly-scattered forest of +gum-acacia trees a few small goats, without a house or +even a hut to sleep under, only the shade of a straw mat +suspended in the prickly trees, and, then, repeat and +mark well the truth of Pope's fine lines,—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Order is heaven's first law, and this confess'd,</span> +<span class="i0">Some are, and must be, greater than the rest,—</span> +<span class="i0">More rich, more wise; but who infers from hence</span> +<span class="i0">That such are happier, shocks all common sense."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>Our people observed to me, "This is a country of the +Sultan, so the women fear nothing." But the environs +of Ghadames are the country of the Sultan, which does not +prevent the depredations of banditti. There is no water +here, they go to Agath to bring their water for themselves +and their flocks. Of course, the complexion of +these <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'sheperdesses'">shepherdesses</ins> is quite brown or brown-black, by exposure +to the weather. I shall ever remember the +modest air with which a nomade young woman came +and presented us with a bowl of milk. It was modesty's +self's picture! The shepherdess nymph stepped forward<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-305" id="V2-305"></a>[<a href="images/2-305.png">305</a>]</span> +timidly, with her eyes averted, not presuming even to +look at us; and as soon as she placed the bowl on the +ground, a short distance from us, she escaped to the +thicket of the tholh-tree, like a young roe of the timid +trembling herd. On her glowing cheek,—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Sweet virgin modesty reluctant strove,</span> +<span class="i0">While browsing goats at ease around her fed."</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"And now she sees her own dear flock</span> +<span class="i0">Beneath verdant boughs along the rock—</span> +<span class="i0">And her innocent soul at the peaceful sight</span> +<span class="i0">Is swimming o'er with a still delight."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>Such a picture of pure heartfelt shyness and delicate +modesty could only be witnessed in these +solitudes, where this maiden shepherdess never perhaps +speaks to any man but her own way-worn, +severe, but honest-hearted father, when he returns from +his little peregrinations, bringing a few blankets, a little +barley and oil, the staple matters of existence for these +lonely nomades. Nothing was given in return for the +milk, for we had nothing to give. But if offered it +would not have been accepted, by the laws of hospitality +amongst these desert Arcadians. The reason now +assigned for not giving us a kid, is, all the men are +absent, and they cannot part with one, even if money be +sent from Mourzuk for payment.</p> + +<p>About 3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, to my great joy, we arrived at the +village of Agath. Our route was over a bare level +plain, and our progress like at sea, when the masts of the +ship are first seen, then the hull; so here we first saw +the heads of the date-palms, then their trunks, and then<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-306" id="V2-306"></a>[<a href="images/2-306.png">306</a>]</span> +the clusters of the hovels of the village. I was happy to +learn our guide determined to pass the night here. The +poor fellow was himself worn to a skeleton in travelling +these wastes, with but one eye left, and that very dim. +He was glad to "put up" for the night. When he +started it was to have been a journey of a day and a +half, it was now to be three days. We got into an +empty hovel, and with palm-branches kindled a fire, +which was kept up in a blaze to serve for a lamp. This +is the usual practice, now and then putting on a piece of +wood to make a light. Very few Saharans have the +luxury of lamps or candles. I still suffered from bile, +languor, and exhaustion, and once placed upon my +mattress, I did not leave it till next morning. We had +no provisions, for our party had eaten up all I had. We +tried to get something from the Sheikh of the village, +but only succeeded in obtaining a few loaves of newly-baked +bread, with a little herb sauce, hot with peppers, +to pour upon the bread to moisten it. Mustapha attempted +to make a great noise, and talked about reporting +him to the Pasha of Mourzuk, and getting him bastinadoed +for treating a Christian in this way. I discouraged +these threats, and would have no imbroglio, for +I knew the character of the Sheikh could not well be +worse than that of Mustapha himself. Mustapha demanded +meat, but I begged only a little flour and +butter to make some bazeen in the morning. The +Sheikh promised and took leave. In the morning the +Sheikh fled, and we saw no more of him. He deserved +to be reported at Mourzuk. Hospitality certainly +does not flourish at Agath. It's odd, the only time I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-307" id="V2-307"></a>[<a href="images/2-307.png">307</a>]</span> +was seriously ill, and really wanted hospitality, I found +it not. To-day we picked off several fine pieces of +gum from the tholh. Many of the trees had their +branches lopped off, first for allowing the goats to nibble +the green leaves, and afterwards to use the dry branches +for firing.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-34" id="FoN_2-34"></a><a href="#FNa_2-34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> In the East Indies persons are known to become blind <i>for the +night</i>, (something like the <i>night-blindness</i>, which we have before +mentioned,) by the influence of the moon; or such is what people +say.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-35" id="FoN_2-35"></a><a href="#FNa_2-35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> In the Koran it is intimated that God fattens the wicked in +this world for the day of slaughter in the next. I forget the Surat. +The Arabic is—‮سنسدرجهم‬—signifying, "<i>We</i> (God) <i>make them +proceed by degrees</i>;" that is to say, We, God, give the wicked pleasures +and enjoyments in this world, that we may punish them the +more in the next world. This is a most abominable sentiment, and +intolerable to a right-thinking mind. But I believe such a blasphemous +opinion has also been held by some mad-brained Christians.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-36" id="FoN_2-36"></a><a href="#FNa_2-36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> In the event of my publisher bringing out a new edition of +the venerable Mrs. Glass, or Mrs. Rundall, I fervently hope he will +not fail to avail himself of this receipt for the making of bazeen. +I am also of the opinion of the former ancient dame, with regard to +the necessity of catching a hare before it is dressed; and I think the +meal likewise must be procured before it is made into bazeen. To +be eaten with relish, it besides must be eaten in The Desert.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-37" id="FoN_2-37"></a><a href="#FNa_2-37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> The oath taken by the Knights of the Order of Malta, was—"<i>To +kill, or make the Mohammedans prisoners, for the glory of +God</i>."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-38" id="FoN_2-38"></a><a href="#FNa_2-38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> "And behold a man of Ethiopia, an eunuch of great authority +under Candace, Queen of the Ethiopians, who had the charge of +all her treasure, and had come to Jerusalem for worship."—(Acts +viii. 27.)</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-308" id="V2-308"></a>[<a href="images/2-308.png">308</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV.</h2> + +<h3>RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival at Mourzuk; and reported as a Christian Marabout from +Soudan.—Meet Angelo, who conducts me to his Master, the +British Vice-Consul.—Hearty Welcome from Mr. Gagliuffi.—Detail +of the Slave-Caravans of The Wady.—Read the Newspapers; +Massacre of Jemâ-el-Ghazouat, and the Annexation of +Texas.—Visit to the Bashaw of Mourzuk.—Visits to the Commandant +of the Garrison and the Kady.—Poetical Scrap of +European Antiquity.—Celebration of a Wedding.—Environs of +Mourzuk.—Camera Oscura.—Mourzuk Couriers.—The Kidnapped +Circassian Officer.—Old Yousef, the Renegade.—Dine +with the Greek Doctor on a Carnival Day.—An Albanian's +Revenge.—Greece and its Diplomatists.—Officials of Mourzuk.—An +Arab's estimate of God and Mahomet.—What is Truth?—Improvements +of the Commandant of the Troops.—How +English Politics taste in The Desert.—Visit to the Grave of +Mr. Ritchie.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>22nd.</i>—<span class="smcap">Rose</span> early, and got off again as well as I could, +considering I had had little or nothing to eat for the +last two days, and should have nothing till the evening, +when we expected to reach Mourzuk. Course east and +south-east. Still cold and windy. Palms scattered +over all the route, from Agath to Mourzuk, but only a few +of them cultivated. It was most refreshing to behold so +many trees on our road, after traversing such treeless +and sandy wastes. A few wells here and there, and +a little corn cultivation. Arrived at Mourzuk at about +4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></p> + +<p>I here thought of a squib which had been published in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-309" id="V2-309"></a>[<a href="images/2-309.png">309</a>]</span> +a rival paper at Malta, representing me as "The Consul of +the Blacks at Mourzuk" in allusion to and satirizing my +anti-slavery propensities. These things will come back +to one's memory years and years after they have been +forgotten. When I read the squib, I little imagined +I should ever visit Mourzuk, and yet the visit could +be traced readily enough as resulting from my anti-slavery +labours in Malta and the Mediterranean. +Mustapha stopped at the gate to make his toilet, and +I lent him my barracan to make on entering the +city. Moors and all Saharan travellers dress themselves +up before they enter any large or particular place, when +on a journey, and they wonder why I do not follow +their nice tidy example. On entering Mourzuk, I suppose +I looked very queer, for it was immediately reported +to the Bashaw, "A Christian Marabout is arrived from +Soudan." We were stopped a few minutes at the gates, +to see if I had any exciseable articles. This done, I +made the best of my way to the residence of Mr. Gagliuffi. +On the road I casually met the Maltese servant of +the Vice-Consul. His face brightened up with joyful +amazement, and he shook me eagerly by the hands. +Englishmen arrive here once in half a century, or rather +never, which sufficiently accounts for the excitement of +the Maltese. Angelo took me direct to the Consul's +house, and I found Mr. Gagliuffi at the door. The Consul +was as astonished to see me as his servant. He +stared at me as if I had just dropped from the clouds. +He had heard of my going to Ghadames, Ghat, and +Soudan, but did not expect to see me one while. I need +not add, Mr. Gagliuffi gave me a most hearty welcome. +I found the Consul in a very fine and spacious house for<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-310" id="V2-310"></a>[<a href="images/2-310.png">310</a>]</span> +oases of Desert, with "all his English<a name="FNa_2-39" id="FNa_2-39"></a><a href="#FoN_2-39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> comforts around +him," as we say. Seven months had made me forget all +these things, and I was now a Saharan entering into the +domains of comfortable, if not civilized, life. The appearance +of Mourzuk was not very pleasing to me, the +major part of its dwellings being miserable hovels. The +Castle looked dirty, and tumbling down. Nevertheless, the +presence of Turkish troops and officers in uniform about +the streets, with a variety of people congregated from different +towns and districts of Sahara, gave the place more +the aspect of a city than any other town I had seen since +I left Tripoli. I was extremely knocked up and unwell, +and at once determined not to leave Mourzuk until my +health should be restored. I found myself right as to +the date of my arrival at Mourzuk, on comparing notes +with Mr. Gagliuffi; but two days wrong as to the name +of the day, having written down Friday instead of Sunday. +As to the Moorish reckoning of Ghat and Ghadames, +that was quite different from the name of the +day, and the number of the day, as found in Mourzuk. +Time is very badly and incorrectly kept in The Sahara.</p> + +<p>Some few particulars must now be recorded of the +slave-caravans which I left in The Wady. The united +number was some one hundred and thirty slaves. Two-thirds +were females, and these young women or girls. There +were a few children. Necessity teaches some of the best +as well as the sternest lessons. A child of three years of +age rode a camel alone, and without fear. The poor +little creature knew if it complained or discovered itself<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-311" id="V2-311"></a>[<a href="images/2-311.png">311</a>]</span> +frightened, it would be obliged to walk through The +Desert. The slaves were fed in the morning with dates, +and in the evening with ghusub. Female slaves, after +the style of Aheer people, pounded the ghusub in a large +wooden mortar, just before cooking. But they had little +to eat, and were miserably fed, except those who had the +good fortune to be purchased by Haj Ibrahim. For +some of these improvident stupid merchants had actually +purchased slaves without the means of keeping them. +On arriving at The Wady, they sent jointly, through Haj +Ibrahim, to borrow a hundred dollars of the Bashaw of +Mourzuk. The messenger was Mustapha. His Highness +kindly enough handed him over the money. All +the masters carried a whip, but this was rarely used, +except to drive them along the road, when they +lagged from exhaustion. Thus it was administered +at times when it could least be borne, when nature was +sinking from fatigue and utter weariness! and therefore +was cruel and inhuman. Yet only some twenty +were sick, and two died. When very ill they were +lashed upon the back of the camel. Some of the young +women that had become favourites of their masters experienced +a little indulgence. I observed occasionally +love-making going on between the slaves, and some of +the boys would carry wood for the girls. My servant +Said had one or two black beauties under his protection. +But everything was of the most innocent and correct +character. Some groups of slaves were aristocratic, and +would not associate with the others. Three young +females under the care of the Shereef, assumed the airs +and attitude of exclusives, and would not associate with +the rest. Every passion and habit of civilized, is repre<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-312" id="V2-312"></a>[<a href="images/2-312.png">312</a>]</span>sented +in savage life. A perfect democracy, in any +country and state of society, is a perfect lie, and a +leveller is a brainless fool. There is also an aristocracy +in crime and in virtue, in demons and in angels. The +slaves are clad variously. Haj Ibrahim tried to give +every one of his a blanket or barracan, more or less +large. Besides this, the females had a short chemise, and +a dark-blue Soudan cotton short-sleeved frock. Many had +only this frock. The poor creatures suffered more from +the ignorant neglect of the Touaricks than the Tripoline +merchants, and their complaints and diseases usually +begin with their former masters. Yet I am assured by +Mr. Gagliuffi, that the Touaricks of Aheer are infinitely +better and kinder masters than the Tibboo merchants of +Bornou, or even many Tripolines. The Tibboos cannot +bring a female child over The Desert of the tender +age of six or seven, without deflowering her, whilst the +Touaricks of Aheer shudder at such sensual brutality, +and even bring maidens to the market of an advanced +age. The brutal Tibboos besides bring their slaves quite +naked, with only a bit of leather or cotton wound round +their loins, whilst the Touaricks always furnish them +with some little clothing.</p> + +<p><i>23rd.</i>—Felt better, but weak. The excitement produced +in me by my new quarters and reading the +journals, after four months elapsing since I saw the last, +made all the people fancy I was already attacked with +their Mourzuk fever. Mr. Gagliuffi treated me as such, +and the Greek doctor was sent for, who approved of my +being treated as attacked, and I took accordingly fever +powders. But another night's rest restored me and I +discovered no symptoms of fever, for which I could not<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-313" id="V2-313"></a>[<a href="images/2-313.png">313</a>]</span> +be too thankful, as the fever nearly attacks all strangers +journeying in Mourzuk. The news from Europe was +exceedingly disagreeable to me, inasmuch as I read of +crimes and events of a much darker shade than the +things which I had seen in Desert amongst the Barbarians. +The two events which arrested my attention were +the massacre of five hundred French troops near Jamâ +El-Ghazouat, and the annexation of Texas, as most +relating to my present pursuits. The first was an +evident retribution for burning alive a tribe of Arabs in +the caverns of the Atlas. Some high personages in +Paris deplored this massacre of their devoted and hapless +countrymen, but the poor Arabs of the Atlas, the +men, women, and children burnt or suffocated alive, were +unpitied and unmourned<a name="FNa_2-40" id="FNa_2-40"></a><a href="#FoN_2-40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a>, because they happened to be +resisting the placing of a foreign yoke on their necks. Such +is the high tone of our political morality in Europe! No +wonder the curse of God is upon us and afflicts us with +famine and cholera! The annexation of Texas, for the +extension of slavery and the slave trade, I hope will at +once and for ever disabuse the minds of our wild democrats, +who fancy that because people call themselves republicans +and establish a republican form of government, +therefore they are the friends of freedom. Better had +America been bound hand and foot for ever to the aristocratic +tyranny of the mother country, than that she should +now become, as she is, the world's palladium of Negro +slavery, and the huge breeding house of slaves to endless +generations! We cannot but recommend to these trans-atlantic +tramplers upon the freedom and rights of man,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-314" id="V2-314"></a>[<a href="images/2-314.png">314</a>]</span> +in defiance of all divine and human laws, the following +lines of Mr. James—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Oh, let them look to where in bonds,</span> +<span class="ihalf">For help their bondsmen cry—</span> +<span class="i0">Oh, let them look, ere British hands</span> +<span class="ihalf">Wipe out that living lie.</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Veil, starry banner, veil your pride,</span> +<span class="ihalf">The blood-red cross before—</span> +<span class="i0">Emblem of that by Jordan's side</span> +<span class="ihalf">Man's freedom price that bore,</span> +<span class="i0">No land is strong that owns a slave,</span> +<span class="i0">Vain is it wealthy, crafty, brave."</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The slaver's boastful thirst of gain,</span> +<span class="i0">Tends but to break his bondsman's chain."</span> +</div></div> + +<p><i>24th.</i>—Much better in health to-day. Sent off Said, +with a man of this place, to fetch my trunk and other +baggage left in The Wady. Find Mr. Gagliuffi keeps up +a friendly correspondence with the Vizier of the Sheikh +of Bornou. Any one going to Bornou would derive +great advantage from the Vice-Consul's letters of recommendation. +Mr. Gagliuffi has also considerable influence +over the population of Fezzan, and is on good terms with +the Mourzuk Bashaw.</p> + +<p><i>25th.</i>—Felt well enough to-day to call upon the +Bashaw. His Highness's full name and title is Hasan +Bashaw Belazee. I was introduced to him by Mr. Gagliuffi, +who previously insisted upon sprucing me up a bit, +and removing my Maraboutish appearance by getting me +a new red cap or <i>fez</i>. My <i>Christian</i> hat was left at +Ghadames. It was impossible to wear it in Desert or +towns, for people always said I looked like a Christian +devil when I wore the European black hat. We found<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-315" id="V2-315"></a>[<a href="images/2-315.png">315</a>]</span> +His Highness just recovered from a month's indisposition. +He received us very politely, and Mr. Gagliuffi tells me +he is really a very good sort of man. His Highness +gave us pipes and tea, which is becoming now a favourite +beverage amongst the Moors of East, as it has long been +in West Barbary, amongst all races of the Maroquines, +who have introduced the fashion of tea-drinking and +teetotalism at Timbuctoo. His Highness was very talkative +and affable. He was amazed at my audacity in +going amongst the Touaricks without a single letter of +recommendation, and looks upon my arrival at Mourzuk +as an escape from death to life. His Highness confessed, +however, that the Touaricks are people of one word, and +that, after having told me they would protect me, I did +right in confiding in their honour. He added, "If you +go to Aheer hereafter I will assist you all I can." Mr. +Gagliuffi pretends the Bashaw has considerable influence +amongst all the Touarghee tribes, and the Touaricks always +follow strictly the recommendations which the Bashaw, +as governor of the province of Fezzan, and a near neighbour, +has taken upon himself to give them. Every person +carrying a letter from His Highness to the Touaricks, +has invariably been well received. His Highness is very +fond of illustrating his conversation by similes, and +related a little facetious palaver which he had with a +Targhee of Aheer.</p> + +<p>His Excellency thus to the Targhee:—"You always +thought there was a great mountain separating you from +us, protecting you from our armies. You besides always +boasted of having an army of 100,000 warriors. But +the other day there came to you a bee, and buzzed about +your ears, and you all at once fled before the little bee.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-316" id="V2-316"></a>[<a href="images/2-316.png">316</a>]</span> +How is this? Where are your 100,000 unconquerable +heroes?"</p> + +<p>The Targhee thus to the Bashaw:—"Ah, ah, how +amazing! it was just so."</p> + +<p><i>H. E.</i>—"But are you not ashamed of yourselves?"</p> + +<p><i>The Targhee.</i>—"Ah, ah, but we shall now go and fight +them."</p> + +<p><i>H. E.</i>—"Well, we shall see your courage."</p> + +<p>The Bashaw explained to us, how the Touaricks of +Aheer were put to flight by the Weled Suleiman, whom +he the Bashaw, and his master at Tripoli, only esteemed +as so many troublesome little bees. This was the affair +of the capture of the 1000 camels, when the Touaricks +were carrying off the spoils of a Tibboo village, before +mentioned. These Weled Suleiman have just joined the +rest of the refugees under the son of Abd-El-Geleel. +The Bashaw is the famous Moorish commander who captured +and beheaded Abd-El-Geleel, and who has sworn +to extirpate not only the family of this Sheikh, but all +the tribes subjected to his son. The Bashaw received +the appointment of Bey or Bashaw of Fezzan, for his +hatred to this family, and his services in capturing and +destroying its chief. Belazee is a fresh-coloured Moor, +and rather good-looking, with a dark, piercing, and cruel +eye. He is about forty years of age and very stout. +Of his courage there can be no question, and his reputation +as a military man is very great in all this part of +Sahara. Mr. Gagliuffi had instructed me diplomatically +to boast of the attentions which I had received from the +Touaricks, for observed the Consul, "If you say the +Touaricks did not treat you well in every respect, the +Bashaw will commiserate you before your face, but laugh<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-317" id="V2-317"></a>[<a href="images/2-317.png">317</a>]</span> +at you behind your back, and tell his people how happy +he is (and I'm sure he will be happy) you have been +well fleeced by the Touaricks, of whom the Turks here +are jealous in the extreme." Mr. Gagliuffi also volunteered +a diplomatic hit of another kind on his own +account: "My friend, your Excellency, on entering the +gates of Mourzuk, and looking up at the Castle, thought +he was entering a town of the dead, it looked so horribly +dingy and desolate." I said to the Consul afterwards, +"Why did you say so?" He replied, "I am +trying my utmost to improve the city, and want the +Bashaw to whitewash the Castle. He has promised me +he will do it." The Bashaw addressed me, "Think +yourself lucky you have escaped, but for the future you +must be placed in the hands of the Touaricks by us as a +sacred deposit, and then if anything wrong happens we +shall demand you of all the Touaricks by force." I +thanked him for the compliment; I believe he meant +what he said at the time. But such an insulting message +could not be delivered to the brave, chivalric, and freeborn +sons of the Touarghee deserts; they would trample +your letter under their feet, or spear it with their spears.</p> + +<p>Mr. Gagliuffi and myself then went to see the troops +exercised. The commanding officer is trying to reduce +them to order and discipline, and succeeds admirably. +Before he arrived, great disorder reigned amongst them, +and they were constantly found intoxicated in the streets. +After the manœuvring, we visited the commander and his +staff, who were all extremely polite. The Bashaw does +not interfere with the discipline of the army. The Turks +can well distinguish, if they please, between civil and +military affairs. And it is wrong to consider the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-318" id="V2-318"></a>[<a href="images/2-318.png">318</a>]</span> +Turkish Government and people, like Prussia and other +military nations of the north, as one great military +camp. We afterwards visited the Kady, Haj Mohammed +Ben Abd-Deen, an intimate friend of the Consul. +He had under his care the Denham and Clapperton +caravan, and is well acquainted with us English. I was +surprised to find the Kady quite black, although his features +were not altogether Negro. Mr. Gagliuffi says +Mourzuk is the first Negro country. This statement, +however, involves a very difficult question. Fezzan, +Ghat, and other oases, contain many families of free +Negroes, some perhaps settled formerly as merchants, +and others the descendants of freed slaves. I do not +think the real black population begins until we reach the +Tibboos, although Ghatroun is mostly inhabited by Negroes. +Certainly, the Negroes have never emigrated +farther north in colonies. Mr. Gagliuffi has just received +by the courier from Tripoli, several watches sent there for +repair, belonging to the Sheikh of Bornou. They were +given to the Sheikh by our Bornou expedition, twenty +years ago. It is pleasing to see with what care the +watches have been preserved in Central Africa, for they +looked as good as new.</p> + +<p><i>26th.</i>—I must now consider myself recovered from +indisposition. At first, people talked so much about +Mourzuk fever that I thought I must have it as a matter +of course, and felt some disappointment at its not attacking +me. Three-fourths of the Europeans who come +here invariably have the fever. I speak of the Turks. +It attacks them principally in the beginning of the hot, +and cold, weather, or in May and November. Fortunately, +I am here in February. Mourzuk is emphatically<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-319" id="V2-319"></a>[<a href="images/2-319.png">319</a>]</span> +called, like many places of Africa, <i>Blad Elhemah</i>—‮بلاد الحمة‬—"country +of fever."</p> + +<p>Amongst the Christian and European curiosities and +antiquities which I have discovered in this Mussulman +and Saharan city, is the following poetical scrap, published +by myself, some four or five years ago, upon that +beautiful rock of Malta, or, according to the Maltese, +<i>Fior del Mondo</i>, "The flower of the world."</p> + +<h5>SONNET.</h5> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Hail, verdant groves! where joy's extatic power</span> +<span class="ihalf">Once gave the sultry noon a charm divine,</span> +<span class="ihalf">Excelling all that Phœbus or the Nine</span> +<span class="i0">Have told in glowing verse!—Youth's radiant hour</span> +<span class="ihalf">Yet beams upon my soul,—while memory true</span> +<span class="ihalf">Retraces all the past, and brings to view</span> +<span class="i0">The magic pleasures which these groves have known,</span> +<span class="ihalf">When Hope and Love, and Life itself, were new,</span> +<span class="i0">Delights which touch the S<small>OUL OF</small> T<small>ASTE</small> alone,</span> +<span class="ihalf">Taught by the many and reserved for few!</span> +<span class="i0">O! busy <i>Memory</i>, thou hast touched a chord</span> +<span class="i0">Recalling images, beloved,—adored,—</span> +<span class="ihalf">While Fancy keen still wields her knife and fork,</span> +<span class="ihalf">O'er roasted turkey and a chine of pork!"</span> +<span class="i16">C<small>LEMENTINA</small>.</span> +</div></div> + +<p>I found it flying about in one of Mr. Gagliuffi's old lumber +rooms, and, being such a precious gem, I must needs +reproduce it upon the page of my travels. Who is the +author, and how I came by it, I cannot now tell. I +only know it once adorned the columns of the "Malta +Times," at a period which now seems to me an age +ago.</p> + +<p>There was a wedding to-day, and the bride was carried +on the back of the camel, attended with the high +honour of the frequent discharge of musketry. In order<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-320" id="V2-320"></a>[<a href="images/2-320.png">320</a>]</span> +that I might likewise partake of these honours, the Arab +cavaliers stopped before the Consul's house, and several +times discharged their matchlocks. It was a gay, busy, +bustling scene. The cavaliers afterwards proceeded to +the Castle, and discharged their matchlocks, standing up +on the shovel-stirrups, and firing them off at full gallop. +But these cavaliers are nothing comparable to the crack +horsemen of Morocco. Their horses are in a miserable +condition, and they themselves ride badly. The horse +does not do well in the Saharan oases. In Fezzan he is +often obliged to be fed on dates, which are both heating +and relaxing to the animal. Meanwhile the discharge +of musketry was rattling about the city, the lady sat with +the most exemplary patience on the camel (covered up, +of course), in a sort of triumphal car. A troop of females +were at the heels of the animal loo-looing. The +ceremony stirred up the phlegm of the Turks, and delighted +the Arabs.</p> + +<p>In the evening I visited one of the gardens in the +suburbs. The corn was in the ear on this, the 26th day +of February. In a fortnight more they will cease their +irrigation, and it will be reaped quickly afterwards. We +gathered some young green peas. The flax plant is +here cultivated; the fibres and dried leaves are burnt, +and the seed is eaten; no other use is made of it. Two +crops of everything are obtained in the year, one now, in +the spring, and the other in autumn. The irrigation by +which all this cultivation is produced, rain rarely ever +falling, cannot be carried on during the intense and +absorbing heats of summer. A couple of asses and a +couple of men, or a man and a boy, do all the business of +irrigation. Fezzan water is brackish generally, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-321" id="V2-321"></a>[<a href="images/2-321.png">321</a>]</span> +wells are about fifteen of twenty feet deep. These are +in the form of great holes or pits. The more distant +suburbs present beautiful forests of palms, producing a +fine reviving effect upon an eye like mine, long saddened +by the ungrateful aspect of a dreary desert. The +atmosphere and ambient air is less pleasing to view, +presenting always a light dirty red hue, as if encharged +with the fine sand rising from the surface. +The soil of the Fezzan oases is indeed mostly arenose, +and the dates are nearly all impregnated with fine particles +of sand, which takes place when they are ripe, and +very much lowers their value. But this sandy soil does +not sufficiently account for the eternal dirty vermilion +hue of the atmosphere of Mourzuk. They say its site is +very low, in the shallow of a plain, and to this cause +they attribute its fever.</p> + +<p><i>27th.</i>—Health quite restored, and got up early. There +are two or three round holes in the window-shutters of +my bed-room; by the assistance of these, when the +shutters are closed, in the way of a camera oscura, all +the objects passing and repassing in the streets are most +sharply and artistically drawn on the opposite wall. +Here beautifully delineated I see the camels pass slowly +along,—the ostriches picking and billing about, which +are the scavengers of the street, instead of the pigs at +Washington, (see Dickens,) and the dogs of Constantinople, +(see all the tourists,)—the women fetching water,—the +lounging soldiers limping by with their black +thick shoes pulled on as slippers,—the slaves squatting in +circles, playing in the dirt,—groups of merchants, black, +yellow, and brown, bargaining and wrangling,—asses +laden with wood,—the coffee-maker carrying about cups<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-322" id="V2-322"></a>[<a href="images/2-322.png">322</a>]</span> +of coffee, &c., &c. Wrote letters for to-morrow's post, +and very disagreeable to me, as announcing my tour +broken up midway.</p> + +<p><i>28th.</i>—Post-day. The courier leaves every Saturday, +but it requires nearly forty days to get the answer of a +letter from Tripoli. The courier is eighteen days <i>en +route</i>. A caravan occupies from twenty-four to thirty +days. In the route of Sockna there is water nearly +every day, but one or two places, the longest space +three and a half, and four days. The Commander +visited me again this morning, as also the Greek doctor, +who calls every morning. The Major now came in. He +is a young Circassian; by birth a Christian, but kidnapped +and sold to the Turks. He is a very amiable +young man, and deeply regrets that he was not brought +up a Christian. It is high time this infamous practice of +selling the Christians of the East to the Turks, was put +a stop to. It is to be hoped that Russia will atone for +the wrongs which she has inflicted upon Poland, and +offer some compensation for the blood which she is still +shedding in Circassia, by abolishing this odious system of +Christian slavery through all south-eastern Europe, as in +western Asia. Notwithstanding our hatred to Russia's +system, and its iron-souled Grand Council, we Englishmen +(I presume to speak for all), are willing and happy +to do justice to Russia in the efforts which she made, +and the aid she rendered the Servians, in emancipating +them from the galling yoke of Mussulman bigotry and +Turkish tyranny<a name="FNa_2-41" id="FNa_2-41"></a><a href="#FoN_2-41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a>. Nicholas has a noble and mighty +mission before him, not to subjugate Turkey, or infringe<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-323" id="V2-323"></a>[<a href="images/2-323.png">323</a>]</span> +upon the liberties of Europe, but to civilize his vast +empire, and the wild countries of Northern Asia. But +the Czar does not seem to understand his destiny—or +the task, more probably, is beyond his power. It must +be left to his successor, or happier times. This Circassian +tells me he has not had the fever in Mourzuk. He +thinks the city healthier than formerly, and attributes +the fever to people's eating dates, and their bad living. +Dates are not only the principal growth of the Fezzan +oases, but the main subsistence of their inhabitants. All +live on dates; men, women and children, horses, asses +and camels, and sheep, fowls and dogs.</p> + +<p>Mr. Gagliuffi gives the following statistics of the slave-traffic +<i>viâ</i> Mourzuk from Bornou and Soudan:—</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>In 1843</td><td align='left'>2,200</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>In 1844</td><td align='left'>1,200</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>In 1845</td><td align='left'>1,100</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>———</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Total,</td><td align='left'>4,500</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The two last years shows a diminution, and he thinks +the trade to be on the decline. But this evidently +arises from the Bornouese caravan being intercepted, or +the traffic interrupted by the fugitive Arabs on the +route. There has been no large caravan from Bornou +for three years. And Mr. Gagliuffi considers the route +at the present, so unsafe, as positively to refuse countenancing +my going up to Bornou this spring. However, +a couple of small slave-caravans have ventured stealthily +down twice a year, conducted by Tibboos. The principal +Tripoline slave-dealers who frequent Mourzuk are from +Bengazi and Egypt. Slaves are besides brought occa<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-324" id="V2-324"></a>[<a href="images/2-324.png">324</a>]</span>sionally +from Wadai; and there is a biennial caravan +from Wadai to Bengazi direct, leading to the coast a +thousand and more slaves at once. Our Consul is frequently +employed in administering medicine to the +poor slaves, who arrive at Mourzuk from the interior, +with their health broken down, and often at death's +door. He makes frequent cures, but, alas! it is for the +benefit of the ferocious Tibboo slave-dealer. The Consul +naturally laments he cannot buy these miserable +slaves, who, in this state of disease, are often offered at +the market for five or six dollars each. He has no funds +at his disposal, or he would procure them by some +means, cure them, and give them their liberty.</p> + +<p>This evening I called upon a Moor, an ancient renegade +of the name of Yousef, who was well acquainted with all +our countrymen of the Bornou expedition. His arm was +set, after being broken, by Dr. Oudney, which he still +exhibits as an old reminiscence of the doctor. Yousef +has lately given great disgust to his good neighbours, by +purchasing a new concubine slave, to whom he introduced +us, notwithstanding that he has his house full of women +and children. This sufficiently proves that Mohammedans +discountenance the unbridled licence of filling their +houses with women. One of his old female slaves, by +whom Yousef has had several children, said to Mr. +Gagliuffi, "I won't speak to you any more, Consul. +Don't come more to this house. Why did you give my +master money to buy a new slave?" The Consul protested +he did not. Old Yousef laughed, and drily observed:—"When +this (pointing to the new slave), is in the family +way, I must purchase another wife. If I can't keep my +wives myself, I must beg of my neighbours to contribute<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-325" id="V2-325"></a>[<a href="images/2-325.png">325</a>]</span> +a portion of the necessary expense." Old Yousef is a +thorough-going scamp of a Moor.</p> + +<p><i>1st March.</i>—Occupied in writing down the stations of +the Bornou route from the mouth of one of the Sheikh's +couriers. There are now two of these couriers in Mourzuk, +natives of Bornou. The Sheikh corresponds with +Belazee as well as with Mr. Gagliuffi. Bornouese +couriers travel in pairs, lest a single one should fail if sent +alone. They are mounted on camels, and it requires them +forty days to make the traverse from Mourzuk to Bornou. +I tired the courier pretty well with dictating to me the +route. It is extremely difficult to get an African to sit +down quietly and attentively an hour, and give you information. +If ever so well paid, they show the greatest +impatience. Afterwards paid a visit to the young Circassian +officer. He related to me how he was captured. +It was in the broad day, when he was quite a child, +playing by a little brook, and picking up stones to throw +in the water. The officer says, that in his dreams, he +often sees the silvery bubbles and rings of the water +rising after he had thrown the pebble into the brook; +and, especially, does he see the ever-flown visions of his +green and flowery pastimes of childhood, whilst he is +out on duty in the open and thirsty desert, lying dozing +under an intense sun, darting its beams of fire on his +head. The kidnapper took him to Constantinople. His +brother came up after to rescue him. But the master, to +whom he was sold, terrified him, by threatening, if he +should show the least wish to return, to cut him to +pieces. The barbarous threat had its desired effect, and +he submitted to his fate. This Circassian officer has still +a hankering after Christians, and in his heart is no good<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-326" id="V2-326"></a>[<a href="images/2-326.png">326</a>]</span> +Mussulman. He tries to adopt as much as possible +Christian manners, and boasts of having all things like +them. Such forced renegades deserve our most sincere +sympathies.</p> + +<p>Evening—Mr. Gagliuffi and myself dined with the +Greek doctor. It was a carnival day with the doctor, +and he prepared a befitting entertainment. An Albanian +Greek dined with us, who had been brought up from +Tripoli by Abd-El-Geleel, to make gunpowder for the +Arab prince. When the Turks captured Mourzuk they +found here the Albanian. He has nearly lost his sight, +and is now charitably supported by the Doctor. We +were waited upon by the Doctor's servant, an Ionian +Greek, and the Maltese servant of the Consul, and so +mustered six Christians, a large number for the interior +of Africa. The dinner was magnificently sumptuous for +this part of Africa. We had a whole lamb roasted. +After dinner, its shoulder bones were clean scraped +and held up to the light by the Doctor, in order to +catch a glimpse of the dark future! This is an ancient +<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'superstitition'">superstition</ins> of the Greeks. Besides several +Turkish dishes, (for the Doctor lives half Turk, half +Christian,) we had salmon and Sardinians. This was the +first piece of fish I had seen or eaten for seven months. +It was remarked when the large caravan from Bornou +comes, expected in this summer, it will certainly bring +dried fish from the Lake Tschad. In Central Africa, +they dry fish, as meat, without salt, and it keeps well. +We had bottled stout, table wines, Malaga, rosatas, and +rum. We were all of course very happy, and the Albanian +sang several of his wild mountain songs. He was +very merry, and, swore he was obliged to keep himself<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-327" id="V2-327"></a>[<a href="images/2-327.png">327</a>]</span> +merry, because, not like other people, he had an affair +which rankled in his breast. We asked him what it was. +The Albanian answered, greatly excited, both with his +wine and his subject, "A man killed my brother, and +I have not yet been able to kill him. The vengeance of +my brother's blood torments me night and day. I pray +God to return to my country to kill the murderer." This +Albanian is an enthusiastic Greek, and wishes and prays +to see his countrymen plant again the Cross on the dome +of St. Sophia. "But many of you have turned Turk," +I remarked. "Yes," observed the Albanian, "many +of my countrymen have turned Turk, and I, who am +less than the least of them all, I have not committed this +folly. I can't comprehend how they could so trample +on the name of their Saviour." In short, I found the +Albanian possessed of all the fire, bigotry, ferocity and +vindictiveness, for which his countrymen are so celebrated. +I encouraged him, and said, "The Greek +kingdom ought to have its bounds a little widened." +The Greek jumped up wildly at this remark, and clenching +my hand, began screaming one of his patriotic airs, +and cursing the Turks, so that we became all at once a +seditious dinner-party, under the shade of the pale +Crescent. Had we been in Paris, that pinnacle of liberty +and civilization, we should all immediately have been +conveyed off, without finishing our dessert and the wine +which made us such patriot Greeks, to the sobering +apartment of the Conciergerie. Happily we were in The +Desert, under the rule of barbarians. Coletti was mentioned, +but I forget what was said of him. In Jerbah, a +Greek merchant protested to me, that the only way to +regenerate Greece was to cut off the head of this Coletti,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-328" id="V2-328"></a>[<a href="images/2-328.png">328</a>]</span> +as well as all the present chiefs of parties. He observed +"Another generation alone can regenerate Greece." The +merchant added, "I should like also to hang up that +Monsieur Piscatory."</p> + +<p>It does seem a pity that diplomacy should be reduced +to the most detestable intrigues, lying and duplicity, +which if any other class of men were guilty of, they +would be put out of the pale of society. But mankind +would care little about these archpriests of falsehood, +were it not for the serious consequences resulting +from their works. Look at the state of Greece now, the +handicraft of diplomatists! Such is the result of the +good and friendly offices rendered to an infant state by +these sons of the Father of Lies!</p> + +<p>At this time there are some nine hundred Albanians +in Tripoli, regular troops of the Porte, whose only occupation +is lounging, lying and smoking about the streets. +There were sixty or seventy Christians amongst them, +but for some reason or other unexplained, the Bashaw +sent them all back. The report is, the Sultan does not +know what to do with these Albanians, and has sent +them to Africa to decimate them. The massacreing +Janissary days are past, and we have arrived at an age +of the more humane policy of letting them die of fever +on the burning plains of Africa. Perhaps France has +recommended the Porte this policy, having found it +answer so well in the experiment made on malcontent +regiments in Algeria. How very humane all our European +Governments are getting! How kindly they treat +their poor troops! Who would not be a soldier, and fight +the battles of "glorious war?" But we must return +to our host, who is a very different kind of Greek.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-329" id="V2-329"></a>[<a href="images/2-329.png">329</a>]</span> +Doctors are always pacific men. The Doctor observed +laconically, "I eat the bread of the Turks, and whilst I +do so I must be, and I am a good Ottoman subject." Mr. +Gagliuffi speaks Greek and Turkish besides Arabic and +Italian, and so he is at home with all these people. It +is happy for the Consul he does, for after all, Mourzuk +is but a miserable dirty place, and would kill with ennui, +if fever were wanting, some score of English Vice-Consuls.</p> + +<p><i>2nd.</i>—The Consul received a visit from the Adjutant-Major, +Agha Suleman. The Doctor came in and was +very merry with the Adjutant, who is always trying to +get himself reported sick, in order that he may return to +Tripoli. The Adjutant observed to me, whilst he drew +himself up, made a wry face, and heaved a deep sigh, as +if his last, to persuade the Doctor he was greatly suffering, +"I would not go to Bornou if you were to give me +100,000 dollars." But why should he? With what +sort of feeling could he go there? The spirit of discovery, +which once stirred up the Arabian savans to +explore Nigritia, is now totally extinct both in Arabs +and Turks. I learnt some items of the pay of Officials +in Mourzuk. The Bashaw has 5,000 mahboubs per +annum. The Adjutant-Major has 30 dollars per mensem; +the Doctor 25 dollars; and so on of the rest, the +commanding officer having perhaps 50 dollars per +mensem. This amount of pay is considered sufficient +for expenses at Mourzuk. The officers have quarters +with the Bashaw in the Castle. Mr. Gagliuffi related +a characteristic anecdote of the ignorance prevailing +amongst the Arabs as gross as that of Negroes. Mohammed +Circus (or the Circassian) was a few years ago<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-330" id="V2-330"></a>[<a href="images/2-330.png">330</a>]</span> +Bashaw of Bengazi whilst Mr. G. visited that place. +The Bashaw was buying something of an Arab, and gave +him but a third of its real value. Mr. G. took upon +himself to say, "Why do you injure this poor man +by giving him but a third of the value of his goods?" +"Oh!" rejoined the Bashaw, "that is not a man, he is +only a dog. Let me call him back and you shall see +what he is." Immediately the Bashaw called the man +back and asked him, "Who was the better, God or +Mahomet?" The Arab bluntly answered, smiling with +conceit, "Why do you ask me such a thing? What +harm do I receive from Mahomet or what harm do others +receive from our prophet? But God kills one man with a +sword, hangs another, drowns another. All the evil of +the world is from God, but Mahomet does nothing except +good for us."</p> + +<p>This poor ignorant fellow was filled with ideas of +irresistible fate. Some Arabs and Moors ascribe only +the good things to God, whilst others all things, the evil +and the good. When this anecdote was being ended, a +Moor came in, and being in a disputing humour, I asked +him abruptly,—</p> + +<p>"What is truth?"</p> + +<p>"The Koran."</p> + +<p>"Who told you the Koran is truth?"</p> + +<p>"Mahomet."</p> + +<p>"And who told Mahomet?"</p> + +<p>"God."</p> + +<p>"How do you know this?"</p> + +<p>"Mahomet says so."</p> + +<p>"What did Mahomet do to make you credit his +word?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-331" id="V2-331"></a>[<a href="images/2-331.png">331</a>]</span></p> + +<p>"Plenty of things."</p> + +<p>"What things?"</p> + +<p>"Killed the infidels, sent us the camel into Africa, +planted for us the date-palm, and worked many wonders."</p> + +<p>"Is that all?"</p> + +<p>"No, great many more things I cannot now recollect."</p> + +<p>The camel, I think, was introduced into Africa about +the third century. It is a mistake to say, Mahomet did +no miracles. The people in North Africa and The +Desert all relate miracles performed by Mahomet. The +Prophet, however, repudiates miracles in the Koran. +In Surats xiii. and xvii., in answer to miracles demanded, +the Prophet replies by the knock-down argument, "All +miracles are vain. Whom God directs, believes; whom +he causes to err, errs." Our conversation passed to old +Yousef Bashaw, whose family the Porte has deposed. +Mr. Gagliuffi observed justly, and which so often happens +in despotic countries, "Yousef established Tripoli and +its provinces in one firm united kingdom, and in the +early part of his life his power was respected and his +people happy; but as the Bashaw declined in life, he +again disorganized everything, and Tripoli was rent in +pieces." Went to visit a member of the Divan. All +these despotic Bashaws consult or prompt a mute +Divan. Let us hope the Consulta lately assembled by +Pius IX. will turn out something better than these mute +Divans, or a Buonaparte Senate. We were treated with +coffee, and milk, sour milk (or leben), but not skimmed, +which is considered a great luxury, and only presented +to strangers of consequence.</p> + +<p><i>3rd.</i>—We received a visit from the Bey, as he is some<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-332" id="V2-332"></a>[<a href="images/2-332.png">332</a>]</span>times +called, the commander of the troops, who is a very +sociable kind-hearted little fellow. Mr. Gagliuffi related +some of the atrocities which were committed by the +troops previous to the commander's arrival. They killed +a woman, committed rape on a child, were never sober, +and always quarrelling with the inhabitants. They are +now reduced to discipline and order. One day Mohammed +Effendi said to Mr. Gagliuffi, "I am always at +work, either making improvements in the town or exercising +the troops, but who sees me here, no one recognizes +my conduct in The Desert." The Consul endeavoured +to console the desponding officer by observing, +God saw him, and one day would reward him for his +good works. So we see, the Turks are a part of the +human race after all, and could lead on their fellow-creatures +in the way of improvement if their energies +were properly directed. Africa could be greatly benefitted +by the Turks. Even at Mourzuk they are introducing +things which will soon be imitated at Bornou. Not +being infidels, the same objection does not exist against +their innovations as against us Christians. Even in the +little matter of gloves I saw an immense difference. The +officers here wear gloves, and nothing is thought of it. +People do not say to them as they have said to me at +Ghat and Ghadames, "You have the devil's hands." +Mohammed Effendi actually went so far as to make this +speech, "I shall go to England one day in order that I +may learn something." The grand occupation of the +Commander now is, the building of a guard-house within +the city. This occupies his attention morning, noon, +and night; and it certainly has a good appearance. +There is not such a natty thing in Tripoli. The officer<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-333" id="V2-333"></a>[<a href="images/2-333.png">333</a>]</span> +directs all the works, and is assisted occasionally by the +friendly counsel of the Consul; so that a wonder of +architecture will at last be reared amidst the crumbling-down +places of this city of hovels.</p> + +<p>My Said returned this afternoon, bringing the baggage +from The Wady. Five more slaves of Haj Ibrahim are +sick. His first slave adventure at Ghat is likely to turn +out a bad speculation. Read an article or two from +<i>Blackwood's Magazine</i>, No. CCXXX. The Consul has +got a few stray numbers up The Desert. English politics +read all stuff in Desert, like what a celebrated man was +accustomed to say of his philosophy after dinner, "It's +all nonsense or worse." So is reading English politics +in this part of the world. How soon our tastes and +passions change, with our change of place, and scene, +and skies! An Englishman married a Malay woman at +Singapore. In six years he lost all his English, nay, +European feelings, and became as listless and stupid as +the people whose habits and nationality he had sunken +under.</p> + +<p>Visited this evening the grave of Mr. Ritchie, who +died at Mourzuk on November 20, 1819. He was buried +by Capt. Lyon, his companion in African travel. The +grave is placed about two hundred yards south of the +Moorish burying-ground; it is raised eight or ten inches +above the level of the soil, and is large, being edged +round with a border of clay and small stones. We were +conducted by old Yousef, who told us the Rais (Capt. +Lyon) chose the site of burial between three small +mounds of earth, in order that the grave might be easily +distinguished hereafter. Mr. Gagliuffi, had never visited +the grave before my arrival, which I proposed to him as<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-334" id="V2-334"></a>[<a href="images/2-334.png">334</a>]</span> +a sacred duty that we owed to our predecessors in African +travel and discovery. The Consul promises now to have +the grave repaired and white-washed, and I, on my part, +promise, in the event of my return to the interior, to +carry with me a small tombstone, to place over the grave, +with name, date, and epitaph. If there were a thorough +and <i>bonâ fide</i> Geographical Society in England, this +little attention to the memory of that distinguished man +of science would have been performed long ago. But +our societies are instituted to pay their officers and +secretaries, and not to promote the objects for which +they are ostensibly supported by the public. The Moorish +cemetery close by, is a most melancholy, nay, frightfully +grotesque picture. No white-shining tombs and dome-topped +mausoleums, no dark cypresses waving over them +and contrasting shade with light, which mournfully adorn +the cemeteries of the north coast. All is the grotesque +refuse of misery! Here we see sticks of palm-branches +driven down at the head of the graves, which sticks +are driven through old bottles, pitchers, jugs, ostrich +eggs, &c., so that at a distance the burying-ground has +the appearance of a dull, dirty, desolate field of household +rubbish, and old crockery-ware. I did not trouble +myself to ask the reason of this trumpery of trumperies, +but I imagine it is to distinguish one grave from another. +The cemetery of Ghadames, where nothing is seen but +stones, if it be a desert-looking place, yet has not this +trumpery appearance. I was glad to see the grave of +Ritchie lying apart from this, though in its infidel isolation. +There lies our poor countryman, alone in The +Sahara! But, though without a stone or monument to +mark the desert spot, still it is a memorial of the genius<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-335" id="V2-335"></a>[<a href="images/2-335.png">335</a>]</span> +and enterprise of Englishmen for travel and research in +the wildest, remotest regions of the globe. And, for +myself, I would rather lie here, in open desert, than in +the crowded London churchyard, amidst smoke, and filth, +and resurrectionists, the pride and glory of our Cockney-land. +Here, at least, the body rests in purity, the desert +breeze, which sweeps its "dread abode" barer and barer, +is not contaminated with the effluvia of a death-dealing +pestilence; and though the ardent sun of Africa smites +continually the lonely grave, the bones mayhap will rest +undisturbed till reunited and refleshed at the loud call of +the Trump of Doom! unkennelled, uncoffined by wild +beast, or more ferocious man.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-39" id="FoN_2-39"></a><a href="#FNa_2-39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> Although Mr. Gagliuffi is an Austrian, a native of Trieste, he +has acquired all the English ideas of comfort, and speaks excellent +English.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-40" id="FoN_2-40"></a><a href="#FNa_2-40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> As a remarkable exception, some one or two <i>French</i> papers +did protest against this wholesale burning alive of an Arab tribe.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-41" id="FoN_2-41"></a><a href="#FNa_2-41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> See Mrs. Kerr's translation of the History of Servia.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-336" id="V2-336"></a>[<a href="images/2-336.png">336</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI.</h2> + +<h3>RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Mr. Gagliuffi's opinion of the Touaricks.—Amazonian White-Washers.—Visit, +and take leave of the Bashaw.—Various Anecdotes +related by His Highness.—Safe-conduct given to liberated +Slaves in returning to their Country.—Character of the Tibboos, +and particularly Tibboo Women.—Description of the Oases of +Fezzan.—Leo's Account of these Oases.—Recent History of the +Government of Mourzuk.—The Traitor Mukni.—Life and +Character of Abd-el-Geleel.—The Civil War in Tripoli, and +Usurpation of its Government by the Turks.—The Tyrant +Asker Ali.—Skirmish of Hasan Belazee with the Town of +Omm-Errâneb, and the Oulad Suleiman.—Retreat of the Oulad +Suleiman to Bornou, and their Marauding Character.—My +departure from Mourzuk with the Slave-Caravan of Haj Essnousee.—Establishment +of British Consuls in The Great Desert +and Central Africa.—Force of the new Slave-Caravan.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>4th.</i>—<span class="smcap">Feel</span> as well in health as when I left Tripoli, +though housed in this city of fever. Mr. Gagliuffi has +some ideas about the Touaricks which I have not +acquired in Ghat. He pretends Touaricks are always +afraid of their women, and are obliged to do whatsoever +their wives tell them. The son never will go with his +father, but always follows his mother. His father he +learns to hate the more he loves his mother. The +Consul does not think the Touaricks of Aheer to be so +numerous as represented. The same, indeed, may be +said of all the kingdoms of Africa. The principal slave +or servant (factotum) of the Sultan of Aheer is now in +Mourzuk, transacting business for his master. The +Bashaw offered to write to the Sultan for me through<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-337" id="V2-337"></a>[<a href="images/2-337.png">337</a>]</span> +this man. He is called Hiddee, and paid me a visit +this morning. En-Nour, the friend of Kandarka, is +only a Sheikh. Hiddee is the slave whom the Bashaw +has been quizzing so severely about the mighty armies of +his master.</p> + +<p>A number of women are now occupied opposite to us +in white-washing or white-claying the Guard-house, this +<i>chef-d'œuvre</i> of Mourzuk architecture. The women alone +do this work, and as their privilege. There are about +thirty of them so occupied, under the command of a queen +white-washer. They all tremble at the sound of her +Majesty's voice. Sometimes she gives them a crack +over the head with a bowl, to make them look sharp +about them. The white-washers prepare the wash in +the usual way, and then lade it out in small bowls, +throwing a whole bowl at once at the walls, using no +brush, now and then only with their hands rubbing over +a place not wet with the wash. This arises from the +nature of the wash, it being merely a fine brown-white +clay, or a species of pipe-clay. There is no lime in the +oases near: people fetch it from Sockna. For this +reason the Castle is so dirty. There is attendant on the +women a band of Arab musicians, to cheer them on in +their work. Every man who passes by gets a piece of +white-wash clay thrown at him. If it hits him he has +to pay, if not he escapes. On his non-payment, when +so hit, he is tabooed from the privileges which he +possesses in and over women. He can have no communication +with them, nor can he buy anything +from them, or receive anything from their hands. If he +does not pay in a few days, his fine increases with his +delay. This custom prevails, and its stipulations are<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-338" id="V2-338"></a>[<a href="images/2-338.png">338</a>]</span> +most religiously binding, whenever women are employed +to white-wash Government houses and establishments. +Once a Targhee received some money, which a woman +thus employed offered to him, to entrap him. Immediately +exclaimed the virago, "You cowardly rascal, instead +of giving us money, you take money away from us." +Then a mob of these Amazons followed him to his house, +and, to save himself from being torn and scratched to +pieces by the troop, he paid ten dollars, and was happy +to escape so easily. The Amazonian white-washers like +to have a shy at Mr. Gagliuffi or the Doctor, because +they are down upon them for a good mulct or present. +To save their respective dignities, Consul and Doctor +take care to keep out of that quarter of the town where +the work of the Amazons is going on.</p> + +<p>We paid a visit to the Bashaw this afternoon previous +to my departure to-morrow. We had tea and pipes +again as before. His Highness was excessively civil, +and related to me many anecdotes of the people of this +part of the world, of which anecdotes and such chit-chat +he is very fond. This Bashaw is a sort of chronicler of +the Arabian Nights order, with the difference, that what +His Highness relates are generally true stories. Mr. +Gagliuffi instructed me in a little of his Desert diplomacy, +and I accordingly observed, "Your Excellency must +extend the Turkish rule in Sahara, and you ought to +capture Ghat, for that is the centre of commerce in +these parts." This was put forth as a feeler. The +Bashaw deigned the following in reply:—"There was a +boy left with his father, whilst the mother and wife had +gone to a neighbouring village on an errand. The boy, +after a sleep of three hours, awoke, and, looking about +him and not seeing his mother, began to cry for her.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-339" id="V2-339"></a>[<a href="images/2-339.png">339</a>]</span> +'Oh,' said the father, 'you have begun to cry for your +mother after three minutes, you blubbering urchin; +whilst I have been waiting for my wife, with the most +enduring patience, these three long hours."—"So it is +with me," continued the Bashaw; "you are crying for +Ghat after three months' residence here, and I have been +crying for Ghat these three long years. I have been +waiting every year, every month and day in the year, +to go and take it, or destroy it, but the Sultan sends me +no orders." I noticed the Fullan boy of the Bashaw, +and observed to him that I had seen very few of the +Fullan slaves. The Bashaw returned, "That boy is gold +to me. When I was sick, he was the only one who +waited upon me unceasingly, and never left my couch. +I have also a Fullan girl; her hair is as long as your +women's, and reaches down to her waist." Mr. Gagliuffi +afterwards told me His Highness had been some while +choosing a wife, that is, a substitute for his wife who is +in Tripoli, and had at last found what he liked in this +Fullan girl, of whose beauty and grace he said the +Bashaw boasted to him (the Consul), a thing quite unusual +amongst Mohammedans. The features of this Fullan +boy were very regular, black eyes and a light olive complexion. +Such were Fullan slaves of our caravan; and +the most <i>recherchée</i> of all the females, fetching the +highest price, was a Fullanah girl.</p> + +<p>His Highness related several anecdotes of the +Soudanese people. Slaves are told, on leaving Soudan, +that white people will kill them and eat them; but when +they get here, and see themselves kindly treated, they +become reconciled to slavery. In some of the Nigritian +countries, when the people get old,—say seventy or<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-340" id="V2-340"></a>[<a href="images/2-340.png">340</a>]</span> +eighty years of age,—their relatives and friends say to +them, "Come, now you are very old, and are of no use +in the world: it is better for you to go away to your +fathers and to the gods. There you will be young +again, eat and drink as well as ever, and be as beautiful +and as strong as you ever were or can be. You will +renew your young days like the young birds, and the +young lions." "Very well," reply the aged decrepid +creatures, "we will go." They then dress up their aged +worn-out victim in his fine clothing, and make a feast. +When in the midst of drums and horrible screams, +during the height of the feast, they lay hold of the old +man, and throw him into a large fire, and he is immediately +consumed to ashes. The Bashaw did not particularize +the country, but this barbarous rite has been +witnessed in other parts of the world besides Africa.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of Wadai are a nation of drunkards. +They can do nothing unless drunk. Amongst these people, +the greatest mark of friendship is to present their friends +with raw meat, with the bile of the liver poured on it as +sauce or gravy. Wadai is in the neighbourhood of Upper +Egypt and Abyssinia, and the tale reminds one of +Bruce, and the live-meat eating Abyssinians. A Tibboo +chief came to Mourzuk, and presented himself without +introduction before His Highness, and thus harangued +him:—"Oh Bey! I want to write to my son, the Bashaw +of Tripoli. You must send my letter to my son." +"Give it to me," said His Highness, most condescendingly. +"There it is," cried the Tibboo, and flung it +down at the feet of the Governor. The letter being +opened, the contents ran thus:—"Son, be a good man, +fear me and fear God. If you behave well, and acknow<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-341" id="V2-341"></a>[<a href="images/2-341.png">341</a>]</span>ledge +me as your father, I will send you three slaves and +come and see you." The Tibboo was allowed to depart +from the Governor as a madman.</p> + +<p>"See," said the Bashaw to me, "how ignorant and +presumptuous are these Tibboo people."</p> + +<p>I replied, "It was always so that ignorance and pride +went together, and it always will be so."</p> + +<p><i>His Highness.</i>—"Are your people so?"</p> + +<p>"Of course, all the world is so."</p> + +<p>The Bashaw now came to the Touaricks. "The Touaricks +detest cities. When they visit us, we cannot +make them sleep within the walls." I observed, they +have not confidence in the people of the towns they visit. +The Bashaw thought that was a hit at him, and so it +was, for the Touaricks sleep within the walls of their +own cities, and even inside Ghadames. I occupied a +house which they had tenanted just before my arrival. +Therefore His Highness jumped from the Touaricks to +the Ghadamseeah:—"The Ghadamsee people are a nation +of Jews. I once had to escort them. One morning +when I got up I found them all in separate groups, +for they detest each other's society. (The Bashaw +might have observed the separation of the two hereditary +factions.) They were all in disorder. I got a whip +and laid it on them one after another, as they whip their +slaves. The next morning they were all ready to start +before I was. This is the way to treat these Jews. +The curse of God is upon them. When they die nothing +is found in their houses, nor gold, silver, money, or +goods, not even victuals. God punishes them thus because +they are a nation of Jews and slave-dealers." +Belazee forgets that his government is partly supported<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-342" id="V2-342"></a>[<a href="images/2-342.png">342</a>]</span> +by the slave-traffic. But the Bashaw is a man of great +audacity, takes large views of things, assumes the air +of lavish and magnificent pretensions, and hates the +quiet, thrifty, and money-making character of the merchants +of Ghadames. The Bashaw concluded his long +string of anecdotes by asking me, on my return, to bring +him a watch, but not to bring it if I did not intend to +charge him for it, for he could not accept presents from +me, since he had a fixed salary from the Sultan. He +added, "I'm sorry you have not brought a letter from the +Bashaw of Tripoli, for I can't show you the attention I +would wish. But bring a letter when you return, and +I'll write to all the princes of Africa for you." I answered, +"Oh, I'll bring you a firman from the Porte, if +that will do for you." At which His Highness laughed +heartily.</p> + +<p>Whatever ferocity of disposition Hasan Belazee may +have shown in the decapitation of Abd-El-Geleeh, he +certainly knows how to be polite and show hospitality to +strangers. The British Consul-General tried to get him +removed from Mourzuk, with the tyrant, Asker Ali, from +Tripoli, but Belazee was the only man who could keep +this province tranquil, and the trade with the coast uninterrupted. +Mr. Gagliuffi tells me, as a proof of the Bashaw's +influence in the interior, that His Highness wrote +to the Touaricks of Aheer and Ghat to allow liberated +slaves to return unmolested to their country, as an act +acceptable to God, seeing the poor slaves had been liberated +by their pious Mussulman masters, who invoked +upon them the blessing of the Almighty on the day of +their liberation. And it is said, that, in no case, when a +freed slave took a letter from the Bashaw, did the slave<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-343" id="V2-343"></a>[<a href="images/2-343.png">343</a>]</span> +fail to reach his native country. How different this +Desert morality to that of the villanous Americans, who +glory in recapturing freed slaves, or hanging them up by +Lynch Law—and those poor men have bought their freedom +by the sweat of their brow! The Bashaw is also +strong amongst the Tibboos, who are generally an immoral +race of Africans. These Tibboos attacked a merchant of +Tripoli and plundered him near their country. His +Highness immediately clapped all the Tibboos then at +Mourzuk in prison, until the merchant's goods were +restored, and he himself brought safe to Mourzuk. Since +this strong measure, the Tibboos have plundered no more +Tripoline merchants.</p> + +<p>Mr. Gagliuffi pointed out several Tibboos to me in the +town, and amongst the rest one who called himself a +Sultan. This chief came the other day to the Consul +and thus addressed him:—</p> + +<p>"My wife is coming here. I'm so glad. She is such +a good wife. Oh, so good!"</p> + +<p>"Why is she a good wife?" inquired the Consul.</p> + +<p>"Oh, she has killed two women; first the daughter, +then the mother; wretches who wanted to kill her. +Isn't that a good wife?"</p> + +<p>The Tibboo women secrete knives about them, as the +Italian and Spanish ladies conceal the stiletto in their +garters. It does not come within my province to describe +the Tibboos, but I may say briefly of the social +condition of those tribes, in that country it is "Man +and his Mistress," and not "Woman and her Master." +The Tibboo ladies do not even allow a husband to enter +his own home without sending word previously to announce +himself. A Tibboo lady once explained this mat<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-344" id="V2-344"></a>[<a href="images/2-344.png">344</a>]</span>ter +in Mourzuk. "Why," said the Tibbooess, "should I +not have two or three husbands, as well as my husband +two or three wives? Are not we women as good as +men? Of course, I don't wish my husband to surprise +me enjoying myself with my lovers." It is a notorious +fact, that when the salt caravans go from Aheer to +Bilma, the whole villages are cleared of the men, the +Tibboo men escaping to the neighbouring mountains with +provisions for a month. In the meanwhile, the Tibboo +women and the strangers are left to themselves. The +women transact all the trade of salt, and manage alone +their household affairs. The Tibboo women, indeed, are +everything, and their men nothing—idling and lounging +away their time, and kicked about by their wives as so +many useless drones of society. The women maintain +the men as a race of stallions, and not from any love for +them; but to preserve the Tibboo nation from extinction.</p> + +<p>A brief description of the oases of Fezzan may be +given, beginning with <i>Mourzuk</i>, (‮مرزوق‬). The capital +is placed in 25° 54′ N. Lat., and 14° 12′ E. of Greenwich. +It is a walled city, contained within the circumference +of about three miles, having a population of about 3,500 +souls. The area of the site was reduced to a third, on +the south side, by Abd-El-Geleel, for the convenience of +defence, when he held it against the Turks. On the +west, is the Castle of the Bashaw, forming a separate +division or quarter from the town. The Castle, which +consists of many buildings and court-yards, contains the +barracks. The town is formed of one large broad street, +opening into a spacious square before the Castle, and +several smaller narrower streets. Since the occupation +of the Turks, many improvements have been made. A<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-345" id="V2-345"></a>[<a href="images/2-345.png">345</a>]</span> +new mosque has been built, and a guard-house is being +finished for the troops in town. Two or three coffee-houses +and new shops have been fitted up, and the progress +of building improvements continues. Mourzuk has +three gates. The houses are mostly built of sun-dried +bricks, cemented with mud, very little stone and no lime +being found in the environs. Altogether it is a clean +place, for an interior African city. The suburbs already +have been noticed, where in the gardens wheat, barley, +ghusub, ghafouly, the flax plant, common vegetables and +flowers, a few roses and jessamines, are cultivated, with +the noble date-palm overshadowing all. Every garden +has its well, or wells. Sweet water is scarce. The +spring crops are six weeks in advance of those in Tripoli. +The Bashaw, on my taking leave of His Highness, presented +me with a handful of ripe barley to bring to Tripoli, as a +rarity. One bushel or measure of seed-corn produces from +twenty-four to twenty-eight bushels. A greater quantity +of corn could be easily produced in all the oases. A +man and boy with an ass can cultivate corn enough in +a season to subsist three or four families during six +months. There are two seasons and two crops. But +the gardens near the city offer no features of beautiful +vegetation. At a distance there are much finer specimens +of Saharan cultivation.</p> + +<p>The government of Mourzuk consists of a Bashaw, +ostensibly assisted by a Divan of six persons, to whom is +joined the Kady. Besides a Kady in this city, there are +four Kadys in the rest of the province. The garrison +consists of five hundred and fifty men and boys, about +one-third only of whom are Turks, the rest being Arabs +and Moors. Of the whole force, one hundred and fifty are<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-346" id="V2-346"></a>[<a href="images/2-346.png">346</a>]</span> +cavalry. There is besides an irregular corps of a hundred +Arab horse. The superior officers, including the +commander-in-chief, are all Turks. The medical officer +is a Greek. The Porte has very few Turkish doctors. +The medical officer at Tripoli was the late Dickson, an +Englishman. This inconsiderable force is sufficient to +maintain all the oases in tranquillity, and defend them +from the hostile tribes.</p> + +<p>The commerce of Mourzuk is at a low ebb on account +of the rival Touarick city of Ghat, and especially from +the disturbed state of the Bornou route during the last +few years. However, there are caravans between Cairo +and Mourzuk, which never frequent Tripoli. Many +British and Levant goods come by this route, which are +not brought by the ordinary route from Tripoli.</p> + +<p>Saharan merchants divide Central Africa or Nigritia, +into three divisions, according to the marts and routes of +the interior commerce, viz.: Bornou, with which Mourzuk +has the most direct relations; Soudan, or Bur-el-Abeed, +("Land of Slaves"), with which Ghat and Ghadames +have direct and most frequent communications; and, +finally, Timbuctoo, with which Ghat and Ghadames have +likewise always relations. But Morocco is the country in +North Africa which has the most constant relations with +Timbuctoo; so much so, that in past times, the Emperors +pretended to exercise sovereignty over this mysterious +city of the banks of the Niger.</p> + +<p>As before mentioned, Mourzuk is not healthy<a name="FNa_2-42" id="FNa_2-42"></a><a href="#FoN_2-42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a>. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-347" id="V2-347"></a>[<a href="images/2-347.png">347</a>]</span> +Greek doctor calls the fever "<i>febre terziane</i>" (Ital.), apparently +the ordinary intermittent fever, or perhaps the +tertian ague, with local peculiarities. It usually begins +in April and continues all summer. It recommences in +October, and persons attacked in this month are sick +during the whole of the month. About two per cent. +die if they have medical assistance, but, without this +assistance, a great number die. After it, comes the bile, +"<i>gastrica bigliosa</i>." (Ital.) This disease has also fatal +consequences. The simple fever is often accompanied, +when it presents itself, with worms; it then changes to +intermittent fever, and if it does not, is usually fatal. +Persons not cured of the fever often become dropsical. +There are a few cases of consumption. Syphilis is very +virulent, and prevails amongst the troops. Ophthalmia +and rheumatism are common complaints. Thus Mourzuk +is not quite one of those oases, or Hesperian gardens, +where the happy residents quaff the elixir of immortal +health and virtue. Contrarily, it is a sink of vice and +disease within, and a sere foliage of palms and vegetation +without, overhung with an ever forbidding sky, of dull +red haziness.</p> + +<p>The Turkish system of laxity of morals, as exhibited +in all their garrison towns, has full force, free course, +and scope in Mourzuk, beginning as an example with +His Highness the Bashaw, and descending to the lowest +soldiers. Yet they say, it was infinitely worse before +the present commanding officer had charge of the troops.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-348" id="V2-348"></a>[<a href="images/2-348.png">348</a>]</span> +The officers have no legitimate wives, nor, of course the +privates. The women of Mourzuk are therefore necessarily +of bold aspect and depraved manners. All the +lower classes of females are usually unveiled, and will +commit acts of immodesty anywhere. In general these +women are constantly being divorced and taking new +husbands. In such a depraved state of society, love and +affection are consequently unknown,</p> + +<p>Here never—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Love his gold shafts employs;"</span> +</div></div> + +<p>Never here—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Waves his purple wings."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>Mr. Gagliuffi thought one of the greatest obstacles to +the suppression of the slave-trade was the facility which +it afforded Moorish and Arab merchants to indulge in +sensual amours. Although a merchant would get no +profit by his long and dreary journeys over Desert, he +would still carry it on for the sake of indulging in the +lower passions of his nature. A slave dealer will convey +a score or two of female slaves from Mourzuk to Tripoli, +and change the unhappy objects of his brutal lust every +night. This is, he considers, the summum bonum of +human existence, and to obtain it, he will continue this +nefarious trade, without the smallest gain, or prospect of +gain, and die a beggar when his vile passions become extinct. +"What is life without a slave?" says The Desert +voluptuary. "Better to die than have no slaves!" But +there are exceptions. A young lad is placed by his +uncle, who lives in Tripoli, under the care of the Consul. +His uncle wrote to the Consul, "To tell the lad, to send +no more slaves to Tripoli, to abandon the traffic alto<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-349" id="V2-349"></a>[<a href="images/2-349.png">349</a>]</span>gether," +adding, in his letter, "In future, God deliver +us from this shameful traffic!" But the Consul previously +had written to the uncle that he would not take +the boy under his care if he trafficked in slaves. Notwithstanding +all this, some few Saharan merchants there +are who really detest this traffic, and its attendant immoralities. +Such I have found in my later peregrinations +through North Africa.</p> + +<p>Fezzan, as vulgarly computed, is said to contain one +hundred and one towns and villages, or inhabited oases. +The districts are, 1st. Mourzuk, the capital; 2nd. East +side, including Hofrah, Shargheeah, and Foghah; 3rd. +North side, Sebhah, Bounanees, Jofrah, and Shaty; 4th. +West side, Wady Sharghee, Wady Ghurby, and Wady +Atbah; 5th. South side, Ghatroun. This division +embraces twelve principal towns, where there are resident +Kaeds. All the lesser towns have their subordinate +Kaeds or Sheikhs. It will be seen that Sockna is not +included in this enumeration, and it is not usually considered +a part of the government of Fezzan. Of the +rest, and all the towns, Zuela is the more interesting for +its antiquities. Formerly the capital, as well as Germa, +it was colonized by the Romans. Zuela contains some +ancient inscriptions, and not long ago two store-rooms +were discovered, full of indigo, supposed to have been a +portion of the ancient commerce of the interior. Zuela +is the principal town of the division of Shargheeah, or +The East.</p> + +<p>To the natural productions of Fezzan, already enumerated, +may be added, the Trona<a name="FNa_2-43" id="FNa_2-43"></a><a href="#FoN_2-43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a>, or "Sal Natrone" of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-350" id="V2-350"></a>[<a href="images/2-350.png">350</a>]</span> +Tripoline merchants. It is procured from the bottom of +the lakes when the water evaporates during the summer +season. Besides its use of being masticated in Barbary, +it is exported to Europe in considerable quantities, for +the manufacture of glass. A little gum-arabic is procured +hereabouts, and the quantity is increasing.</p> + +<p>Leo Africanus gives the following account of these +oases, which, joining those of the Tibboos, connect +almost in a straight line Northern with Central Africa:—</p> + +<p>"Fezzen è similmente una grande abitazione, nella +quale sono di grossi castelli e di gran casali, tutti abitati +da un ricco popolo si di possessioni, como di danari; +perciocchè sono ne' confini di Agadez e del diserto di +Libia che confina con lo Egitto; ed è discosto dal Cairo +circa a sessanta giornate; nè pel diserto altra abitazione +si truova, che Augela che' é nel diserto di Libia. Fezzen +è dominata da un signore che è come primario del +popolo, il quale tutta la rendita del paese dispensa nel +comun beneficio, pagando certo tributo a' vicini Arabi. +Similmente in cotal paese è molta penuria di pane e di +carne; e si mangia carne di camello, la quale è tuttavia +carissima."—(<i>Sixth Part, chap.</i> <span class="smcap">l</span>iii.)</p> + +<p>Formerly Fezzan was exceedingly rich and populous, +but now it is become impoverished to the last degree, +and many of its largest district populations are reduced +to the starvation-point. Its inhabited oases would produce +an infinitely greater amount of the materials of +existence, if moderately cultivated, whilst many oases, +once smiling paradisal spots in Desert, are altogether +abandoned. The few merchants who have any money +are those of Sockna, but which town, as before mentioned, +does not properly belong to Fezzan, though its<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-351" id="V2-351"></a>[<a href="images/2-351.png">351</a>]</span> +relations with these oases are intimate. Before the +Turks and Abd-El-Geleel, Fezzan was governed by its +own native Sultans, whose family was of the Shereefs of +Morocco. But about thirty years ago one Mukhanee, or +Mukni<a name="FNa_2-44" id="FNa_2-44"></a><a href="#FoN_2-44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a>, as he is commonly called, entered into conspiracy +with the Bashaw of Tripoli to seize the government of the +native princes, who were thus deposed, and the usurped +government continued in the hands of the Bashaw and his +creatures, until it was seized in turn by the brave and +enterprising Arab chieftain, Abd-El-Geleel. The immediate +ancestors of this Sheikh were destroyed by old +Yousef Bashaw, amongst whom Saif Nasser, grandfather +of the Sheikh, and the head of the Oulad Suleiman, was +a celebrated warrior. These chiefs and their tribes +occupied the shores of the Syrtis (Sert ‮سرت‬), and were +originally from Morocco. They might claim some connexion +with the deposed Shereefian government. When +all his ancestors, and especially his grandfather, Saif-Nasser, +were butchered by the exterminating policy of +Yousef Bashaw, Abd-El-Geleel, then a boy, was saved,—as +an instrument of future vengeance in the hands of Providence—by +the secret interference of the women of the +Bashaw's family. As the boy, however, grew up, he could +not fail to excite the suspicions of the Bashaw, for the old +hoary-headed assassin saw in him, not darkly or dimly, +the sword which was being drawn by avenging Heaven to +cut off his family root and branch, perhaps his own +head, and break up for ever his blood-cemented kingdom. +These suspicions of a guilty conscience came at +length to such a pitch, that the day arrived when the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-352" id="V2-352"></a>[<a href="images/2-352.png">352</a>]</span> +innocent youth was to be strangled, so snatching violently +away the instrument of vengeance from the hands +of inexorable justice! But, on that very day, the +Bashaw received intelligence of a threatened invasion from +Mehemet Ali, and old Yousef knew this aspiring young +warrior to be the only man who could unite the scattered +and disaffected tribes of the Syrtis, and repel the invasion. +Abd-El-Geleel was therefore forthwith dispatched +to muster the Arabs, and make all things ready +to meet the invading enemy. However, the alarms of +invasion soon died away, and the young Sheikh was sent +up to the province of Fezzan to quell some insurrection +of the Arabs.</p> + +<p>But finding himself surrounded continually with suspicious +agents and cut-throat spies, who might in a +moment compass his assassination, whilst the Arabs <i>en +route</i> were ripe for revolt, the wary Sheikh at once +raised the standard of rebellion, and took possession, +successively, of the town of Benioleed, the mountainous +district of Gharian, the Syrtis, and the province of +Fezzan, all which he held nine years with the style and +power of a Sultan. Then the day of his fate also began +to hasten on. The old Bashaw's family, polluted with +the most cruel and odious crimes, fell by its own intestine +divisions, ending in a civil war, which war was +closed by the usurpation of the Turks. Abd-El-Geleel +was now called upon to submit to the Sultan of Constantinople, +a new and a more formidable master. The +Sheikh refused submission, and declared and carried on +war with the Turks. At length, however, his intrepid +brother, Saif Nasser, was killed in battle, and the Sultan-Sheikh +became dispirited, lost his courage and presence<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-353" id="V2-353"></a>[<a href="images/2-353.png">353</a>]</span> +of mind. Abd-El-Geleel madly surrendered himself, at +the instigation of his own Sheikhs, who betrayed him to +the Turks, and Belazee, the present Bashaw of Fezzan, +who commanded the troops against him, on hearing of +his voluntary surrender, sent word that the Arab prince +was not to be brought alive into the camp. He was +then instantly decapitated! This cruel assassination +took place in 1842. The whole of the usurped districts +held by the prince, now returned to the power of the +Turks.</p> + +<p>Asker Ali, the blood-thirsty tyrant then governing +Tripoli, on hearing of this intelligence was drunk with +joy. His insolence to the British Consul-General knew +no bounds. The tyrant even boasted openly, that God +would give into his hands his two other enemies, the +British Consul-General, and the Vice-Consul of Mourzuk! +The tyrant was fond of dipping in astrology and reading +fate, and he was once surprised by his ministers, reading +the certain destruction of these last two of his remaining +enemies in a small portion of sand. The consequence of +all this open violence naturally was his instant recal, +Sir Stratford Canning threatening the Porte that, +if it delayed his recal more than one hour, a British +squadron would depose the tyrant, and replace him by +another Bashaw. The ancient Bey of Bengazi, an exile +in Malta, and one of the Caramanly family, or of the +old Moorish dynasty of Bashaws, would have replaced +Asker Ali. This tyrant, like all tyrants, on receiving his +recal, was unmanned, and became weaker than a child, +for the performance of acts of the darkest cruelty and +the most arrant cowardice, are quite compatible. The +tyrant Asker Ali shed tears! on leaving the country, where<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-354" id="V2-354"></a>[<a href="images/2-354.png">354</a>]</span> +he had exercised the most atrocious cruelties. However, +he was fated to execute one act of justice, in the style of +the Turk, against the betrayers of Abd-El-Geleel; for +the tyrant strangled all the subordinate Arab chieftains +who had conspired against their master, and delivered +him into the hands of the Turks,—the just vengeance of +heaven against traitors. Asker Ali returned to Constantinople, +and as is the custom now-a-days, the Porte, +imitating the recent policy of the French Government, +which Government, whenever it disavows its agents, +decorates them as a matter of course,—so that to be, or +get decorated, is to do something contrary to international +law and justice,—following such a good and honest +maxim, such a discovery in the science of diplomacy, I +repeat, the Porte, in its sympathy, immediately conferred +on the tyrant a new Pashalic. Thence, after a +short time, Asker Ali continuing his horrible trade of +official murder, consulting his book of fate and atoms of +sand, and hanging up the good subjects of the Porte +"without judge or jury," got again recalled; and I have +not heard more of this miscreant Pasha. Asker Ali +is a bright jewel of native Ottoman ferocity.</p> + +<p>The Chief Abd-El-Geleel figures in the Slave-Trade +Reports of Tripoli, 1843, as an abolitionist. But, +according to M. Subtil, he was only bamboozling Col. +Warrington<a name="FNa_2-45" id="FNa_2-45"></a><a href="#FoN_2-45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a>. This Subtil also pretends the chieftain +was more inclined to French than English interests. +Such a statement is probably a calumny of the sulphur-exploring +adventurer in Tripoli, and was made to get +himself popularity in France, or to help his schemes of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-355" id="V2-355"></a>[<a href="images/2-355.png">355</a>]</span> +Tripoli speculations. At any rate, it rests solely upon +his very dubious authority. The Arab prince lost all by +attempting too much. He reversed the maxim of +"attempt much, and you will get a little." An arrangement +was offered to the Sheikh, by which, on paying a +contribution of 25,000 dollars per annum, and acknowledging +the sovereignty of the Grand Signior, the usurped +districts should be confirmed to him, and hereditarily to +his family. But, like the ten thousand military chieftains, +soldiers of fortune, who have gone before him, +whose faith saw their star always in the ascendant, he +sighed for Tripoli, and its Bashaw's Castle, and lost all.</p> + +<p>The son of Abd-el-Geleel, on the assassination of his +father, took the advice of Col. Warrington, and emigrated +to Bornou, whose Sultan being of Arab extraction, +received the emigrant hospitably as a brother, and +assigned the unfortunate prince and his scattered followers, +a district on the confines of Bornou, between the +Tibboos and his own empire. Since then, the exiled +prince has received a great accession of strength by +a numerous reinforcement of the Oulad Suleiman, and is +now strong enough himself to defend his newly acquired +territory, should the Sultan of Bornou at any time be +won over by the intrigues of the Turks, to cancel his +concession of lands and attempt to expel the refugees. +This movement of the Oulad Suleiman is connected with +the further military exploits of Hasan Belazee.</p> + +<p>About a twelvemonth ago, the inhabitants of the +village of Omm-Errâneb ("mother of hares"), took it +into their heads to revolt, and upon some frivolous pretext +seized their neighbours' camels, as an intimation to +the Bashaw of their seditious intentions. It is certain,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-356" id="V2-356"></a>[<a href="images/2-356.png">356</a>]</span> +however, from what followed in the course of events, +that their revolt was concerted with the Oulad Suleiman. +The villagers of Omm-Errâneb had not the shadow of +excuse for their revolt, for they paid no contributions to +the Bashaw, and merely acknowledged the Porte. This +town is walled and consists of about two hundred houses, +and at the time of the war had a population of some +eight hundred souls, entirely Arab, but of the people only +three hundred were armed. The Bashaw of Fezzan went +out himself against the rebels, although extremely unwell, +captured their city, and destroyed about one hundred +and twenty of them. The Arab townsmen fought from +house to house with the most determined bravery, obstinately +retiring through their town from one gate to the +other. The Bashaw would have slaughtered more of +them, but he had no men to intercept their egress at the +opposite gate of the town. His Highness lost only eight +Turks and eight Arabs in the capture of this place. On +the next day, to the astonishment of all, about six hundred +of the Oulad Suleiman came up from the Syrtis, all +fully armed, having left their families some two days' +distance. The first thing they did was to capture a +convoy of sick and wounded, in charge of the Greek +Doctor, all of whom they immediately butchered in cold +blood, with the one exception of the Doctor.</p> + +<p>The account which the Doctor gives of his capture and +escape is sufficiently characteristic.</p> + +<p><i>The Assailant.</i>—"May your father and mother be +cursed, and your wife prostituted, you dog of a Turk!" +(raising the sword to strike him).</p> + +<p><i>The Supplicant.</i>—"Oh! have mercy upon me, I'm a +doctor," (falling on his knees).<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-357" id="V2-357"></a>[<a href="images/2-357.png">357</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>An Arab</i>, aside.—"Strike! strike! he lies."</p> + +<p><i>The Assailant.</i>—"May all your children beg their +bread, and the curse of God be upon them!" (seizing +him by the turban to cut off his head).</p> + +<p><i>The Supplicant.</i>—"Oh! have mercy upon me, I'm the +brother of the English Consul at Mourzuk, your friend."</p> + +<p><i>The Arab</i>, aside.—"Hold! hold! let him go."</p> + +<p>But the Doctor did not get off until he had emptied +his pockets of his dollars. In this way only he rendered +his supplications effectual.</p> + +<p>In warfare, both Turks and Greeks have been in the +habit of taking what money they possess with them, to +redeem them from slavery if captured, or for any other +available purpose in the case of defeat<a name="FNa_2-46" id="FNa_2-46"></a><a href="#FoN_2-46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a>. The Oulad +Suleiman then attacked the Bashaw with extreme ferocity, +and His Highness was in great danger. He was so +unwell at the time that he could not sit upon his horse. +But, when the troops began to waver, the officers took +the Bashaw and set him upon his horse to show him to +the soldiers. The sight of the veteran commander rallied +their sinking courage. His Highness had just strength +enough to hold up his sword and point to the enemy, on +seeing which his troops rushed on impetuously, and +obtained a complete victory over the Arabs. The Arabs +were, however, only dispersed a moment, and were +allowed to reunite their scattered bands and pursue +tranquilly their way to Bornou, to the prince of their +tribe. All the fugitives of the Omm-Errâneb accompanied +them. On their march up, they ruthlessly sacked +all the villages of Fezzan and the Tibboos, and arrived<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-358" id="V2-358"></a>[<a href="images/2-358.png">358</a>]</span> +at the quarters of their compatriots laden with booty. +The Bashaw returned weary and exhausted, having no +sufficient force to follow up the pursuit of the Oulad +Suleiman, whose march was that of conquerors rather +than fugitives. Indeed, the Bashaw was glad enough of +their retreat to Bornou. Whilst this fighting was going +on, the greatest confusion reigned at Mourzuk, and many +of the wealthy inhabitants deposited their money and +valuables in the house of the English Consul, for to add +to their miseries, some malicious persons had reported +the capture of the Bashaw, with all his army. It is +probable the Turks are exceedingly well satisfied with +the emigration of these restless and indomitable Oulad +Suleiman. There cannot be a doubt of their being +devoted to the English, but they are of difficult treatment +for us. At the present time, they are dispersed in +marauding parties on the route of Bornou, and were +even an English tourist to fall into their hands, he might +be maltreated before he was recognized as a British subject, +and as such received the protection of their prince. +This was the main difficulty which prevented my going +up to Bornou.</p> + +<p>It would seem, however, the Oulad Suleiman are +getting tired of the burning climate and fevers of +Bornou, and are sighing for the cool airs and healthy +breezes of the shores of Syrtis, with the refreshing sight +of the dark-blue waters of the Mediterranean. For on +my return to Tripoli, I found the British Consul in +negotiation with the Bashaw to procure their return to +the Syrtis: of which since I have heard nothing. The +Bashaw told the Consul they must write to the Sultan +for pardon. The negotiation was placed in the hands<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-359" id="V2-359"></a>[<a href="images/2-359.png">359</a>]</span> +of Mr. Gagliuffi, of whom they are passionately fond, +and in whom they have the most implicit confidence. +These malcontent Arabs were, of course, on friendly +terms with the Touaricks of Ghat, as every attempt to +resist the consolidation of the power of the Porte in +Tripoli is viewed favourably by the Touaricks. But the +marauding of the Oulad Suleiman in the interior, and +the interruption of the commerce of Bornou, ill requite +the asylum and hospitality afforded them by its +Sultan, and for the sake of the commerce of The Sahara, +the sooner they are back again to the Syrtis the +better.</p> + +<p><i>5th.</i>—Rose early to write and prepare for my departure +to Tripoli. Called on the Turkish officers to take +leave. One and all observed, "Before you were going +to h——, now you are going to heaven," alluding to my +projected tour to Soudan. I was not of this opinion; +for, after months and months in my dreams, night-dreams +and waking-dreams, having acted over in my imagination +all the dangers and privations of The Desert, and +seen all the wonders of the mysterious regions of +Nigritia, I set about my departure from Mourzuk with a +heavy heart, lamenting my ill-starred luck and failure, +seeing my mission abruptly cut off midway in its accomplishment. +Mr. Gagliuffi arranged for my returning to +Tripoli with the slave-caravan of Haj Essnousee, whom +the reader will be pleased not to confound with my +friend Essnousee of Ghadames, who had gone on to +Soudan with the return caravan. Haj Essnousee had +accompanying him two or three other traders, all of +whom were natives of Sockna. Their slaves had not<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-360" id="V2-360"></a>[<a href="images/2-360.png">360</a>]</span> +come from Ghat, but had been brought three months +ago by the Tibboos from Bornou.</p> + +<p>I left Mourzuk late in the afternoon. I had heard +the melancholy song of the slaves departing in the +morning. I had now to overtake them this evening. +Mr. Gagliuffi and the Doctor accompanied me outside +the gates, and the Consul's Moorish servant conducted +me to the first night's encampment, both of us riding +horses. I do not regret turning off the direct route to +Tripoli, and visiting Mourzuk before my return. For +here I obtained a better idea of the Upper Provinces of +Tripoli, and I am greatly indebted to the Vice-Consul for +his assistance in my researches. I must acknowledge +likewise the kind attentions of the Doctor and the +Turkish officers. I bade Mr. Gagliuffi an affectionate +farewell, who answered with the plain earnest old +English of "God bless you!" I left the Consul in but +indifferent health. Three times has he had the fever, +yet he is determined to keep up to the last. When Mr. +Gagliuffi first went to Mourzuk, he expected that Abd-El-Geleel, +whose agent he was, as well as having the +appointment of British Vice-Consul, would have been +confirmed in his authority. But this Chief's assassination +left the Consul to struggle against formidable difficulties, +and Mr. Gagliuffi was obliged to apply to the British +Government for pecuniary assistance, which has been +tardily granted.</p> + +<p>The appointment of Mr. Gagliuffi has fully answered +all the objects originally projected. The traffic in slaves +is well watched on this route, and reported upon. The +Vice-Consul exercises a beneficial influence on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-361" id="V2-361"></a>[<a href="images/2-361.png">361</a>]</span> +affairs of Mourzuk, and is useful both to the governing +power and the governed. The population of Fezzan have +great faith in the integrity of Mr. Gagliuffi as agent of the +British Government. The Consul assists them in various +ways. Some twenty months ago he lent the people of +Mourzuk money to meet the tribute demanded from +them by the Government of Tripoli. His relations with +Bornou have already been mentioned. The Vizier of +the Sheikh lately, on his return from a pilgrimage to +Mecca, stopped at the Consul's house, and Mr. Gagliuffi +transacted all his business. Most strangers go to the +Consul, in preference to the Ottoman authorities, or the +people of the town. A great Maroquine Marabout +came this way from Mecca, and deposited all his money, +whilst in Mourzuk, in the hands of the Consul. The +people were jealous that a Marabout should trust a +Christian in preference to themselves, and remonstrated +with the Marabout, who very drily replied to them, +"You are not of the Faithful: you are all robbers. I +am obliged to trust this Christian."</p> + +<p>Unquestionably the establishment of English Consuls +and Vice-Consuls throughout The Desert, and all the +great cities of the Interior of Africa, would be an immense +benefit to humanity, whilst it would equally +promote British trade and interests, and the commerce +of the entire world. One day, in happier times, there may +be a Minister wise enough and bold enough to undertake +this great enterprize, and to make this application +of our resources, which eventually would be no sacrifice, +for the benefit of all mankind. It will, however, require +sacrifices from individuals as well as from Government, +for a residence in The Desert or Central Africa is no<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-362" id="V2-362"></a>[<a href="images/2-362.png">362</a>]</span> +consular retreat, or diplomatic lounge for an invalid +Minister. But if any sacrifice be made for foreign nations +and countries, it surely should be made for Africa, on +whose unhappy children we as a nation, in past times, +have inflicted such enormous wrongs.</p> + +<p>I shall only give one instance of the positive and +material benefit which the people of Fezzan have derived +from the establishment of the British Consul at Mourzuk. +Mr. Gagliuffi induced the people to cultivate the tholh +for collecting gums. Fifty cantars were collected the +first year, and last year some two hundred. The whole +of the population are now seized with a fit of gum-collecting, +but they are not yet expert at making the +incisions in the trees. In the course of time it will be +a most profitable article of export for the people. This +gum now sells for 10 or 12 mahboubs the cantar in +Tripoli. Such has been entirely the "good work" of the +English Consul.</p> + +<p>We stopped at one of Mr. Gagliuffi's gardens to get +some sweet water. This was a very nice plantation of +palms overshadowing crops of corn. The Consul has +several of these gardens, but all of a limited size. +After sunset, we found the encampment at Terzah. It +consisted of three merchants and their servants, about +sixty slaves, most of whom were young women and girls, +and twelve camels. Felt cold during the night—in fact +caught cold, and not very well. Ought to have a tent. +Said very happy in the prospect of returning to Tripoli, +and as usual immediately made friends amongst the male +and female slaves.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-42" id="FoN_2-42"></a><a href="#FNa_2-42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> Our former tourists say: "The opinion of everybody, Arabs, +Tripolines, and our predecessors (Mr. Ritchie and Captain Lyon), +were unanimous as to the insalubrity of its air." And "Every +one of us, some in a greater or less degree, had been seriously disordered; +and amongst the inhabitants themselves, anything like a +healthy-looking person was a rarity." Denham observes also that +to account for the sickliness of Mourzuk was a very difficult matter, +and required a wiser head than his.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-43" id="FoN_2-43"></a><a href="#FNa_2-43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> <i>Trona</i>, ‮الطرون‬, and ‮ترونه‬ "Carbonate of Soda." The great +<i>Trona</i> lake is near Germa or Garama.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-44" id="FoN_2-44"></a><a href="#FNa_2-44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> ‮مُخني‬</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-45" id="FoN_2-45"></a><a href="#FNa_2-45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> See "Histoire d'Abd-el-Geleel, Sultan de Fezzan, assassiné en +1842." <i>Revue de L'Orient</i>, Sept., 1844.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-46" id="FoN_2-46"></a><a href="#FNa_2-46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> The Doctor afterwards recovered his money, the Arab who captured +him having fallen in the skirmish.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-363" id="V2-363"></a>[<a href="images/2-363.png">363</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII.</h2> + +<h3>FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Well of Esh-Shour.—Village of Dillaim.—Tying up a Female +Slave to the Camel.—Village of Gudwah.—Well of Bel-Kashee +Faree.—Melancholy Songs of the Slaves.—Reflections on the +Slave Trade; Christian Republicans, and the Scottish Free +Kirk.—Well of Mukni.—El-Bab.—She-Camels with Foals.—How +American Consuls justify Slavery.—Arrival at Sebhah, +and description of the People.—Cruelty of a Moorish Boy to +the young Female Slaves.—Prohibited Food in matters of Religion.—The +Taste of a Locust.—Anecdotes related by the Bashaw +of Mourzuk and Mr. Gagliuffi.—Divinations of the Tyrant +Asker Ali.—Continual delays.—Altercation with a Moor about +Religion.—The Songs of the Female Slaves interpreted.—Version +of Mr. Whittier, the American Poet.—The <i>Amor Patriæ</i> +of the Negroes.—Primitive Style of playing Draughts.—Games +and Wine prohibited by the Koran.—Sebhah, a City of the +Dead.—Oases and extent of the Sebhah district.—Fezzanee +Palms bear Fruit without Water.—Town of Timhanah.—Bad +Odour of the Turks in these Oases.—Essnousee, an atrocious +Slave Driver.—Stroke of a Scorpion.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>6th.</i>—<span class="smcap">Rose</span> early, and made a long day. Passed a +few dwarf wild palms. Country about here is mostly +sandy, and in hollow flats. Encamped by the well of +Esh-Shour. Our course east and north-east. We passed +by the small village of Dillaim. One of the Moors travelling +with us said to me, "Oh, master, how could you +think of going to Soudan! How you would have +suffered!" I returned, "No noble enterprizes are +achieved without great mental and bodily suffering." This +remark impressed him in my favour, and we continued +great friends all the route to Tripoli.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-364" id="V2-364"></a>[<a href="images/2-364.png">364</a>]</span></p> + +<p>This morning Haj Essnousee, being on foot, called +out for his camel to stop, in a tone which denoted he had +some important business on hand. I turned to see what +was the matter, and so did all, as if something peculiar +was about to happen. I then saw Essnousee bringing up +a slave girl about a dozen years of age, pulling her +violently along. When he got her up to the camel, he +took a small cord and began tying it round her neck. +Afterwards, bethinking himself of something, he tied +the cord round the wrist of her right arm. This +done, Essnousee drove the camel on. In a few +minutes she fell down, and the slave-master, seeing her +fallen <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'dawn'">down</ins>, and a man attempting to raise her up, cried +out, "Let her alone, cursed be your father! you dog." +The wretched girl was then dragged on the ground over +the sharp stones, being fastened by her wrist, but she +never cried or uttered a word of complaint. Her legs +now becoming lacerated and bleeding profusely, she was +lifted up by Essnousee's Arabs. She then, however, +continued to hold on, the rope being also bound round +her body so as to help her along. Thus she was dragged, +limping and tumbling down, and crippled all the day, +which was a very long day's journey. Whether she +feigned sickness, or sulked, or was exhausted, I leave the +reader to judge. Neither I nor her cruel master could +tell. Indeed, such is the nature of the Negro character +it is impossible to tell. A slave may sulk, and may not; +whilst also ill and dying, they may be flogged on the +point of death, as Haj Ibrahim flagellated his dying +victim. No doubt, at times these wretched slaves, when +worn down and exhausted, play some innocent tricks to +get a ride. Nevertheless, such is the power of sullen<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-365" id="V2-365"></a>[<a href="images/2-365.png">365</a>]</span> +insensibility which slaves can command, that the brutal +masters may flog them to death without finding out +whether they are really ill, or only sulky.</p> + +<p><i>7th.</i>—On our return from a difficult journey, everything +is, or appears to be easy. We think little or nothing +of it, especially if we have got with us a new +supply of matters of equipment and provisions. So I +rose early with the most profound indifference of the +month's journey before me, as if travelling in old England, +and I must likewise add, with less anxiety for the safety +of my baggage. Desert baggage-stealers there are indeed +none, and pickpockets and pilferers are as rare as the +birds, which now and then are seen hopping about the +wells, picking up what they can chance to find.</p> + +<p>Our course is north, over an undulating sandy soil. +About 11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we had in view Ghudwah, and in an hour +more we reached the village. Ghudwah is a cluster of +wretched mud hovels, rendered tolerable by being placed +amidst a wood of palms. The squalor of these humble +dwellings is, in truth, forgotten amongst the patches of +beautiful green corn, some already in the ear, and the +graceful, towering, all-over-hanging palm-trees. In a +wady on the left were also forests of palms. The oases +of Fezzan are, in fact, but a series of these palm forests. +Unquestionably a great body of water must be under +and near the surface. But we must keep to the designation +of oases in describing the province of Fezzan, of +which we had a convincing proof this morning; for, +during four or five hours we traversed a country in every +respect desert, covered with small black stones, defying +all attempts at cultivation, and this desert land appa<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-366" id="V2-366"></a>[<a href="images/2-366.png">366</a>]</span>rently +surrounds and intersects the entire series of the +oases of Fezzan.</p> + +<p>When we got clear of Ghudwah we halted for the day, +about 2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, near a well called Bel-Kashee-Faree. I +was glad to halt, both for the sake of the slaves, and myself. +To-day the same girl was not tied to the camel, but a +younger one. She also, poor thing, was dragged along, +limping as she went, and whenever she stopped a moment +to tie up her sandals, she had the greatest difficulty +to reach again the camel. I was annoyed to see none +of her sister-slaves give her a lift and help her on to get +up to the camel, so that she might continue to be assisted +by its march. Some of the poor things, however, have +their intimate friends in their fellow bondswomen. The +girl dragged on yesterday, had her faithful companion, +bringing her water and dates. But in spite of all their +sufferings, the poor bondswomen keep up well. The +young women sing and sometimes dance on the road, +while the boys ape the Turkish soldiers whom they had +seen exercise in Mourzuk, walking in file, holding up +sticks on their shoulders, and crying out "Shoulder +arms!" or words to that effect. The guileless lads of +Africa think these two magic words to be the quintessence +of Turkish and European civilization, and that +which renders the white men superior to their sable +fathers. Two of the boys are dressed in old soldiers' +jackets and look very droll. So we journey along as well +as we can.</p> + +<p>But whilst surveying the march of this troop of human +cattle for the market, I can't but think how dreadful +a trade is this of buying and selling our fellow<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-367" id="V2-367"></a>[<a href="images/2-367.png">367</a>]</span> +creatures! The Moors and Arabs of the ghafalah are +civil enough. They discover great curiosity at seeing me +write, and not a little surprise, like all I have met with, +to find me writing Arabic, whilst some of themselves +cannot. They are all of Sockna.</p> + +<p>It is now near sunset, but I am not going to write a +description of a Saharan sunset, which this evening offers +nothing but sheets of bright yellow flame. Towards the +east, the palms, underwood, and herbage make me fancy +myself in the midst of a boundless circle of cultivation, +for I see no "darksome desert" through the pale skyey +openings of the thick verdure. My feelings thus would +be soothed and gratified, were it not that the sounds—always +to me so melancholy—of the Negroes' song, as +they clap their hands and sing and dance their native +sports, are heard near my encampment. Then again I +feel happy in the reflection that God gives moments of +joyous happiness even to slaves. Why not be soothed +to hear this song of slaves? What a mysterious thing +is Providence! Not to the masters of these slaves, +who are now stretched in dreamy listlessness on the +ground, gives God such jocund innocent delights; not to +the wiser and wisest, to the stronger or strongest, (as +"the battle is not to the strong,") gives God happiness; +but to the poorest, weakest of mortals, the forlorn, helpless +female slave! As I have mentioned, I heard this +same song—to me so melancholy and disheartening—as +the slaves were departing from Mourzuk. I was then +quietly writing, but as the mournful accents broke on my +ear, I started from my usual propriety of feeling, and the +courage which carried me over The Desert gave away +under the pressure of these strange Nigritian sounds of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-368" id="V2-368"></a>[<a href="images/2-368.png">368</a>]</span> +the poor black children, the desolate daughters of the +banks of the mysterious Niger. The tears rushed to my +eyes, but I stopped them in their lachrymal sluices, and +called it folly, for to weep I cannot, I will not. Rather +let me curse the slave-dealers of every land and clime. +Yes, let this foolish sensibility be turned to exasperation; +let me curse those proud Republicans, in whose heart +there is no flesh, whose flag bears impiously against +Heaven the stripes and the scars of the slaves! These +I cursed, and those who in the hypocrisy of their souls, +and their sanctimonious pretensions to Church freedom, +received the gold tainted with the blood of the slave, to +build up their Free Kirk! But why curse? What impotence! +Why not leave the avenging bolt of wrath to +that God, who "hath made of one blood all the nations +of men, for to dwell on all the face of the earth?"</p> + +<p><i>8th.</i>—Rose at sunrise and started with the day. +Route north and north-west, over an undulating gravelly +plain. A few tholh trees, and one solitary tholh +by the road-side, which at a great distance forms a very +conspicuous object. A single tree in The Desert always +excites more interest in the mind of the reflective traveller +than a forest. Solitary palms are often seen +near the coast. At noon, reached the well called Beer +Mukhanee, after the distinguished traitor, who dug it, +but who betrayed and ruined this country. Many a +tyrant and traitor has left behind him some monument +of utility, to relieve the weight of his infamous name with +posterity. The well is very deep and the water good, +but we did not take in any, as wells are frequent hereabouts. +Continued our course until sunset, a long day, +and encamped at the base of a small mountain, called<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-369" id="V2-369"></a>[<a href="images/2-369.png">369</a>]</span> +Babān, or "Two Doors," and by others, El-Bab, or "The +Door." The Door and the Gate, like the famous "Iron +Gate" in Algeria, are frequent names of rocky hills and +mountains in this part of Africa. Ghaljeewan, a mountainous +district of the south-eastern part of Aheer, is +called "the door of Aheer." On the Danube there is a +reef of ugly and huge rocks, over which the current of +the river dashes furiously. The Turks call this "The +Iron Gate" of the Danube.</p> + +<p>On the road the camels had no herbage to eat. Some +of them ate the dried dung of camels and horses. We +have a young camel with us about four months old; it +continues to suck. It has no frolic or fun in its actions, +and is as serious as its mother. The foal of the camel +frolics in awkward antics a few days after its birth, but +apparently soon loses all its infant mirth. In the first +place, the foal has to walk as long a day as its mother, +enough to take all the fun out of the poor little thing; +then, it sees all its more aged companions very serious +and melancholy, and soon imbibes their sombre spirit, +assuming their slow solemn gait. The mother-camel +never licks or shows any particular fondness for its young +beyond opening her legs for the foal to suck. At best, +the camel, as an animal, is a most ungainly and unlovely +creature. What surprises me most are the bites of the +male-camel. He bites his neighbour, without passion or +any apparent provocation, and simply because he has +nothing else to do <i>en route</i>, or nothing arrests his +attention.</p> + +<p>To write in the open Desert is no sinecure. When I +go under the shade from the sun the wind blows unpityingly, +when in the sun the flies torment me. Our grand<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-370" id="V2-370"></a>[<a href="images/2-370.png">370</a>]</span> +slave-driver Haj Essnousee, is most determinedly bent +on showing himself a perfect master in his profession. +This afternoon he set to work beating one poor girl most +shockingly for not keeping up with the rest. Nearly all +got whipped along to-day. Gave a ride to one little +fellow, hardly five years of age, who limped sadly. There +was no sulk in him. He was cheerful with all his +sufferings. Our road is strewn with chumps of petrified +wood.</p> + +<p>Was thinking to-day, for whilst travelling with slaves +the subject is most disagreeably pressed upon you, even to +nausea, of the reasons offered by American Consuls in +vindication of slavery in the United States. Mr. P—— +thus apologized:—"I once spoke to a male slave who +earned plenty of money. I said, 'Do you want to be +freed?' 'Oh no,' he replied, 'I get fifty dollars a month. +I give my master forty and keep ten for myself. Why +should I wish to be free?'" Mr. M—— said to me one +day, "My wife has slaves, but they are well taken care +of. They each have two new suits of clothes per year, +and the doctor's bill for each comes to two or three +dollars also per year." To such miserable drivelling as +this are men, of some education and standing in society, +and the representatives of the free as well as the slave +States, driven to bolster up the nefarious system of +holding in bondage their fellow creatures! In the one +case, a man robs his brother of the rightful fruits of his +labour. This robbery is perpetrated coolly and deliberately +through a series of years. In the other case, +the taking care of a slave, as every humane man must +take care of his horse, and give him good beans, hay, +and a warm stable, is made the corner stone of "the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-371" id="V2-371"></a>[<a href="images/2-371.png">371</a>]</span> +living lie" of liberty on the southern transatlantic +plains.</p> + +<p><i>9th.</i>—Rose with the sun, throwing his orient beams of +gold athwart all the plain, and purpling the rocky block +of El-Bab. I mounted the rock, and saw Sebhah in the +north, where we were to rest in the afternoon. There +was a huge stone balancing on a ledge of the rock, which +apparently wanted but a feather's weight to throw it +down. Bent on mischief, I was going to heave it down, +when the people called to me to desist. On descending, +they told me the stone had fallen from the clouds and +caught there; it was unlucky to touch it. A demon +sits upon it every night and swings himself as a child is +swung in a swing. Continued our route over a sandy +plain, until we arrived at a line of palms stretching east +and west, as far as the eye could see. At 11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, we +entered the suburbs of the town. After a little rest I +went to see what sort of a place it was. Found it a +tolerably well-built place; the houses are constructed of +stone and mud-mortar; some have even got a touch of +lime or pipe-clay wash. Several of the streets are +covered in at the top like those of Ghadames. Very few +people stirring about, being occupied in the suburban +gardens. Fell in with a cobbler, a tailor, and an old +pedagogue with an ABC board. Discussed the politics +of the place with them all. They took me at +first for a Turkish Rais coming from Mourzuk. When +they found I was not a Turk, they began to abuse the +Turks. "The Turks," said they, "take all our money +and leave us nothing to eat but dates. The curse of +God be upon them!" Whenever Turkish officers stop +here they levy contributions. The town is walled in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-372" id="V2-372"></a>[<a href="images/2-372.png">372</a>]</span> +with mud and stone-work, and there are several towers +around it forming part of the wall, pierced with loopholes +for firing musketry therefrom. Most of these towns +are built for protecting the people against the Arabs, who +can do nothing against a wall, even were it only a brick +thick. One small piece of cannon would be enough to +batter down every one of these Saharan-fortified towns. +A part of this town is placed on a small hill, like Ghat. +Sebhah has a dull dingy appearance at a distance. There +is no lime-wash to give it that agreeable aspect which +many Moorish towns have, although always very delusive +when one enters their gates.</p> + +<p>This forenoon, a slave-girl was sadly goaded along. +An Arab boy of about the same age was her goad, who +was whipping her and goading her along with a sharp +piece of wood. Sometimes the young rascal would poke +up her person. I could not see this without interfering, +although I am afraid to interfere. She had got far +behind, and the boy was thus tormenting her like a +young imp. I made him take one hand, and I the +other. But we could not get her up to the camel on +which she might lay hold by means of a rope, and so get +dragged along. We then set her upon a donkey, but she +was too unwell to ride, and fell off several times, the +cruel rogue of a boy beating her every time she fell. +What annoyed me more, her companions in bondage, +those hearty and well, set up a loud yell of laughter +every time she fell off. I'm sick at heart of writing +these shocking details. But the reader will not be surprised +that the Moors make bad slave-masters, when +they have such an early training as this little reprobate +boy, the nephew of Haj Essnousee. I often wondered<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-373" id="V2-373"></a>[<a href="images/2-373.png">373</a>]</span> +how this boy, who was some thirteen years of age, and +fully capable of the sentiment of love, in a climate like +Africa, could torment these poor girls of his own age +with such brutality. If he found one lagging behind, and +at some distance from the grown-up men, he would strip +her, throw her down, and begin tormenting her in the +way I have already mentioned. I spoke to his uncle +about it, but without avail. I then refused to carry on +my camel some choice dates, which he had in his charge +for Tripoli. But it was of no use, the boy was the +worthy pupil of his uncle, a little fiend of ferocity.</p> + +<p>My Sockna companions of travel chat with me, but +their conversation offers nothing new or remarkable. +"There is no money in Fezzan. Our city (Sockna) only +has a few merchants. Mukhanee was originally a merchant, +and a member of the Divan of Mourzuk. He +ruined Fezzan." One of the people of this place said to +me, "Better if you were a Mussulman, and ate and drank +like us." I replied, "I eat everything good, and never +fast to make myself ill." This plain speech amazed +them. But one said, somewhat to my surprise, "That +only which is not good, and not fit to eat, is haram (prohibited)." +I immediately said "Amen" to this, for +generally the Moors maintain that pork and other things +of the kind prohibited, are not good because they are +prohibited, and not on account of any intrinsic badness +in the things themselves. They, of course, asked me +what sort of places were England and London. It's +little use to answer such questions; they cannot realize +the idea or forms of an European city, even in imagination. +Describing the riches of London, one observed ill-naturedly, +"Oh, God gives the infidels peace in this<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-374" id="V2-374"></a>[<a href="images/2-374.png">374</a>]</span> +world, and fire in the next." I then thought it time to +leave off my description. Whilst we were chatting, a +locust was caught and roasted. I tasted it, and found it +not a bad shrimp. The locust requires salt and oil to +make it palatable. The Arabs swear the locusts have a +king, which perfectly agrees with—<ins class="grk" title="Greek: Kai echousin e ph auton basilea">Καὶ ἔχουσιν ἐ φ' αὐτῶν βασιλέα</ins>: +(Rev. ix. 11.) The name given to this insect +monarch as perfectly corresponds with their migratory +devastations, <ins class="grk" title="Greek: Apollyôn">Απολλυων</ins>, "destroyer," for before their +march are smiling fields of verdure and fruitfulness, +whilst behind them are desert and devastation.</p> + +<p>I find in this part of my journal several anecdotes of +the Bashaw of Mourzuk and Mr. Gagliuffi, which seem to +have come to my recollection <i>en route</i>. The Tibboo +chief before mentioned, whose jurisdiction extends over a +wretched village, observed one day to the Bashaw, "The +Sultan of the Tibboos (himself) inquires after the health +of the Sultan of the Turks. But I am well, therefore +the Sultan of the Turks is well; and if I am not well, +then the Sultan of the Turks is not well." His Excellency +replied, menacingly, "You're right, but take care +you don't get unwell, for by G—d if you do get unwell, +and so make my Sultan unwell, I'll come and cut all +your people's throats, and burn down your city." The +Tibboo chief, feeling the force of the argumentum ad +hominem, started out of the audience-chamber in a fright, +and made off from Mourzuk as quick as possible. Before, +indeed, he could get off, he began to fancy himself ill, +and was ill with fright, and expected every moment to +be within the clutches of the Bashaw. I related to the +Bashaw the story of the Governor of Ghat, having the +sword of his ancestors amongst the trophies at Constan<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-375" id="V2-375"></a>[<a href="images/2-375.png">375</a>]</span>tinople. +The facetious Bashaw observed to me:—"You +ought to have said, 'I'll fetch you the sword, Haj +Ahmed, if you'll promise like a good little boy not to cut +your fingers with it.'"</p> + +<p>Mr. Gagliuffi was well acquainted with the tyrant +Asker Ali. The tyrant once dreamt he should kill Abd-El-Geleel, +and his brother, and some other chiefs, but one +would escape. The escaping Sheikh was Ghoma, now +an exile at Trebisonde. This dream was actually +related and retailed in Tripoli two years before the +events happened. One day Mr. Gagliuffi called on the +tyrant, and found him very thoughtful divining in the +rumel ("sand"). "What's the matter?" asked the Consul. +His Highness exclaimed, "Oh, I'm much troubled. +An Arab chief has come here professing allegiance to +my government. But he's a great villain, for such I have +found him in the sand." The next day the unfortunate Arab +was assassinated. Many an honest man was murdered +by the fortuitous throw and fall, and scattering of these +atom sands, in the cruel fingers of the tyrant. Who +will deny after this that the events of our life are (to us) +so many accidents? A Touarghee Sheikh once proposed +to Mr. Gagliuffi to sell his country to the Sultan of the +English. The Consul, who took this as serious, ought to +have considered it a joke of the grave Touarghee. The +Touaricks can tell the most funny stories, and make +the most cutting gibes at their neighbours, without moving +a single muscle of the face.</p> + +<p><i>10th.</i>—We are to stay here to-day and to-morrow, in +order that our slave-masters may obtain provisions. +These people can do nothing without losing an enormous +quantity of time. It breaks my heart to lose so much<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-376" id="V2-376"></a>[<a href="images/2-376.png">376</a>]</span> +precious time. I could have got up to Soudan before I +shall get down to Tripoli. A Touarghee once talked to +me of travelling, and on my telling him I was going to +The East, to the New World (America), and many other +places, he exclaimed, "Allah Akbar, thou fool, thy life +isn't long enough." And certainly it would not were we +to travel at the rate of our Saharans. They never +measure a man's life and what he can do in it. The day +present, and its evils, is with them enough. The proverb +quoted by the great teacher of Christianity, "Sufficient +unto the day is the evil thereof," is much better adapted +to ancient than modern society, or rather to Oriental +and African than European society. The European is +obliged to think of the morrow, and take thought for the +morrow, or he would not be able to live; in these days +of restless and overpowering competition he would die +of starvation. One of the Moors tried to write the +name of Mahomet in Roman letters. I have seen several +Moors attempt this; one did it pretty well.</p> + +<p>At noon, had a strong altercation with a Moor of the +town about religion, who introduced the subject and was +very insulting. Being out of the hands of the Touaricks +I have less delicacy on these matters, and so I +boldly contradicted his notions. I told him, with all +frankness, "It was impossible for a good Christian ever +to become a Mussulman: a bad Christian might, one +who had robbed, or murdered, or run away from his +country. Such were the Spaniards who run away from +the prisons of exile in Morocco. Mahomet witnessed +that Jesus was a true prophet; and Jesus witnessed that +Moses was a prophet, and Moses prophesied of Jesus. +But neither Jesus, nor Moses, nor any other prophet,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-377" id="V2-377"></a>[<a href="images/2-377.png">377</a>]</span> +witnessed to the truth of the mission of Mahomet." +This amazed him excessively. Seeing this, I added, +"Never attempt to convert a Christian, or speak to him +about religion; for in the end you are sure to be dissatisfied." +The zealot immediately changed the conversation. +Several of the people of the town listened to +our argument, but they made no observation, except one +old man, who observed laconically, "Mahometans, Jews, +and Christians, are all rogues; but God is merciful." +This, I think, is about the truth.</p> + +<p>This evening the female slaves were unusually merry +and excited in singing, and I had the curiosity to ask +Said what they were singing about. As several spoke +the language of his own country, Mandara and Bornou, he +had no difficulty in answering the question. I had often +asked the Moors about the merry songs and plaintive +dirges of the negresses, but could never get a satisfactory +answer.</p> + +<p>Said replied at first, "Oh, they're singing of Rubbee +(God)."</p> + +<p>"What do you mean?" I rejoined impatiently.</p> + +<p>"Oh, don't you know," he continued; "they ask God +to give them the Atkah<a name="FNa_2-47" id="FNa_2-47"></a><a href="#FoN_2-47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a>."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"Is that all?"</p> + +<p><i>Said.</i>—"No; they say, 'Where are we going to? +The world is large, O God! Where are we going? O +God! Shall we return again to our country?'"</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-378" id="V2-378"></a>[<a href="images/2-378.png">378</a>]</span></p> +<p><i>I.</i>—"Is that all, what else?"</p> + +<p><i>Said.</i>—"They call to their remembrance their own +country and say, 'Bornou was a pleasant country, full +of all good things, but this is a bad country and we are +miserable, and are ready to sink down.'"</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"Do they say anything more?"</p> + +<p><i>Said.</i>—"No, they repeat these words over and over +again, and add, 'O God! give us our âtkah, let us go to +our dear home.'"</p> + +<p>I am not surprised the Moors never gave me a satisfactory +answer respecting the songs said and sung by +their slaves. Who can assert that the above words are +not an appropriate song? What could have been more +congenially adapted to their present woeful condition? +And what language could have given us a more favourable +opinion of the feeling and intellect of the African? +May pitying Heaven hear the prayers of these poor +creatures, give them their liberty, restore them to their +country! It is not to be wondered at, these poor bondswomen +should cheer up their hearts with words and +sentiments like these; but, oftentimes, their sufferings +were too great for them to strike up this melancholy +dirge, and the silence of the dreadful Desert was many +days unsubdued, uninterrupted by these mournful strains!</p> + +<p>I take this opportunity of noticing the several love +ditties and songs about gallant chiefs and warriors returning +from battle, the lovers of the sable maidens, +attributed to these poor female slaves <i>en route</i> over The +Desert, as found in some books of travel, which, I believe, +are the invention of slave-masters, embellished by the +traveller. No; their song is, and was, and always will +be, because the spontaneous voice of distressed nature,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-379" id="V2-379"></a>[<a href="images/2-379.png">379</a>]</span> +appealing to the justice and help of the Author of all +being!</p> + +<p>"O God! give us our freedom. Where are we going? +The world is large and terrifies us.</p> + +<p>"Shall we return again to our dear homes, where we +lived happily and enjoyed every blessing?</p> + +<p>"But we are in a horrible country; all things frown +upon us; we suffer, and are ready to die.</p> + +<p>"O God! give us our freedom<a name="FNa_2-48" id="FNa_2-48"></a><a href="#FoN_2-48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a>."</p> + +<p>Mr. J. G. Whittier, the distinguished American poet, +has rendered these words into verse. He says:—</p> + +<p>"The following is an attempt to versify this melancholy +appeal of distressed human nature to the help +and justice of God. Nothing can be added to its simple +pathos.</p> + +<h5> +SONG OF THE SLAVES IN THE DESERT. +</h5> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Where are we going? Where are we going?</span> +<span class="i1">Where are we going, Rubee?</span> +<span class="i0">Hear us! Save us! Make us free;</span> +<span class="i0">Send our Atka down from thee!</span> +<span class="i0">Here the Ghiblee wind is blowing,</span> +<span class="i0">Strange and large the world is growing!</span> +<span class="i0">Tell us, Rubee, where are we going?</span> +<span class="i1">Where are we going, Rubee?</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Bornou! Bornou! Where is Bornou?</span> +<span class="i1">Where are we going, Rubee?</span> +<span class="i0">Bornou-land was rich and good,</span> +<span class="i0">Wells of water, fields of food;</span> +<span class="i0">Bornou-land we see no longer,</span> +<span class="i0">Here we thirst, and here we hunger,</span> +<span class="i0">Here the Moor man smites in anger;</span> +<span class="i1">Where are we going, Rubee?<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-380" id="V2-380"></a>[<a href="images/2-380.png">380</a>]</span></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Where are we going? Where are we going?</span> +<span class="i1">Hear us, save us, Rubee!</span> +<span class="i0">Moons of marches from our eyes,</span> +<span class="i0">Bornou-land behind us lies;</span> +<span class="i0">Hot the desert wind is blowing,</span> +<span class="i0">Wild the waves of sand are flowing!</span> +<span class="i0">Hear us! tell us, Where are we going?</span> +<span class="i1">Where are we going, Rubee?<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: added missing quotation mark">"</ins></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Some freed slaves passed to-day on their return to +Bornou, their native land. This reminded me of what +Mr. Gagliuffi related respecting a female slave, who, after +being brought to Mourzuk, was taken back by her master +to Bornou. When her master first told her of his intention, +she simply replied, "No, you will not take me +back." She always persisted in the same reply, when +the subject was ever mentioned. At length the time +came, and she was mounted on a camel and started off. +But her master, on returning, having changed the first +part of the route from that which he came, her suspicions +and unbelief were at once confirmed. However, +a few days elapsed and the old route was resumed, and +seeing, at last, from various indications of the road that +she was really returning, she burst into convulsions of +joy, and with no ordinary care her life was saved. She +never properly recovered from the effect of these convulsions +of transport. What can be stronger than such +feelings of <i>amor patriæ</i>, what more marked proof of +intelligent sensibility, allying the negro with the whole +human, race? For,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Lives there a man with soul so dead,</span> +<span class="i0">Who never to himself hath said,</span> +<span class="i0">'This is my own, my native land.'"</span> +</div></div> + +<p>If Dr. Pritchard's argument be good in religion, by<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-381" id="V2-381"></a>[<a href="images/2-381.png">381</a>]</span> +the existence of which sentiment in the breast of every +portion of humankind he proves that all men are of one +species, and of one original race or stock, the argument +is equally true of patriotism. I have found, however, +some Moors, like some of our philosophers, denying the +Negro to be of the same race as the white man. But +such Mahometan detractors of the Negro character are +extremely rare. The greatest champion of this class +was a slave-dealer, and, indeed, it is a convenient opinion +for men-stealers of every nation.</p> + +<p>The Moors have a primitive way of making a draught-board. +A person of the town brought an apron full of +sand. This he threw upon a stone bench, and spread it +over, making a number of holes for the white and black +squares of the board. This done, they then brought a +certain number of pieces of stones with a corresponding +number of dried balls of camel's dung, (and which, it +may be remarked, are very small in comparison to the +size of the animal). The whole was now complete and +the parties set to work. All the Islamites whom I have +seen are passionately fond of gaming and games of +chance; and, curious enough, thousands who could not +be prevailed upon to drink wine (or eat pork), will game +all day long, notwithstanding that gaming is prohibited +in the very sentences of the Koran, in which wine is +condemned. "They will ask thee (Mahomet) concerning +wine and lots. <i>Answer.</i>—In both there is great sin." +"Satan seeketh to sow dissension and hatred amongst +you, by means of wine and lots," &c. (Surat ii. and v.) +How the commentators have quieted the consciences of +the Faithful on the point of lots and not about wine, I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-382" id="V2-382"></a>[<a href="images/2-382.png">382</a>]</span> +cannot imagine. Such is the absolute folly of matters of +this sort, the "clean" and the "unclean" in religion.</p> + +<p><i>11th.</i>—The sky is overcast this morning, and, what a +wonder! we have had a few precious drops of rain. +Rain, like gold, is valuable according to circumstances. +Wind from N.W. No heat is now felt here. Sebhah +is the very abode of dead men, the catacombs of the +living. Here, at mid-day, you might sit in the lonely +streets, and lecture on the immortality of the soul, to +the few people, who, at long intervals, pass flitting by, +like spectres of the dead. The melancholy appearance +of the place so horrifies me that I don't go into it. +When and where the inhabitants rendezvous and gossip +is a complete mystery. To the palms and huts of palm-leaves +without the town, I return, to convince myself I +am in the land of the living. Visited some of the +suburban gardens. Irrigation is the support of all vegetable +life here. People were employed in weeding the +corn-fields; besides the weeds, they picked up the small +blades of corn, those not likely to be ripe with the rest +of the crop, which are given to the sheep and horses. I +have seen, however, no horses here. It is reported +amongst the people of the town, that the Touaricks +attacked me and took away all my money. As this continues +to spread amongst the oases, I shall soon be murdered +by the helping imagination of the people, at any +rate, before I arrive at Tripoli. A gardener tells me, +many palms grow and bear fruit without being watered, +or having any water running under them.</p> + +<p>The Sebhah district embraces four villages besides its +town, viz., Ghortah, Hajrah, Marwees, and Hafat. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-383" id="V2-383"></a>[<a href="images/2-383.png">383</a>]</span> +population are Moors and Arabs mixed occasionally with +Negro blood; but no black population begins at these or +the oases hereabouts, as foolishly stated on the map of +Capt. Lyon.</p> + +<p><i>12th.</i>—We leave to-day to pursue our journey. Oh, +what is life! In the wilderness or the abode of civilization, +it is one weary way: but soon, thank God! to end. +This morning I was convinced, that, however bad the +condition of a people may be, it may still be worse. A +poor wretched woman of Sebhah came to beg dates from +the slaves! from their scanty allowance. As it mostly +happens, the poor give more than the rich in proportion +to their means, so these poor slaves gave the beggar +woman a most disproportioned quantity of their miserable +allowance. A little vanity there may have been in this, +for however badly off we are ourselves, we are not displeased +to see some people still worse off, and are gratified +in laying them under some miserable obligation. +Left Sebhah about 8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and after three hours' ride +came in view of a forest of date-palms. This wood of +palms is out of the line of route, and extends from +Sebhah to Timhanah, a day's journey. Essnousee observed, +on arriving at the palms, "See, these are all +young palms, lately planted; they are never watered +but bear plenty of dates. It is only in Fezzan the +palms bring dates without water." Our route is north, +and, as before, over an undulating gravelly surface. +Several heaps of stones in a part of the road, evidently +to clear it, as it is next to impossible to miss the way in +this part of Sahara. No stones were added to these +heaps by us. Our precursors, in past times, were much +more attentive to clearing routes than ourselves.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-384" id="V2-384"></a>[<a href="images/2-384.png">384</a>]</span></p> + +<p>I am sorry to record the nasty feelings of the people +of these Fezzanee towns towards Christians. I found +the people a most inhospitable set, and could not get +from them a drop of milk for love or money. As, however, +they sent plenty of prepared food every evening to +the people of the ghafalah, Essnousee was kind enough +to give me a dish or two. I attribute this inhospitality +to their hatred of the Turks, and the English being considered +as the friends of the Turks.</p> + +<p>Reached Timhanah at 3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> I was grievously +attacked with the tooth and ear-ache, produced by the +strong cold wind which had been blowing nearly all day. +Got some rum and doctored myself, and by sunset I was +enabled to read a little of my Greek Testament. I did +not go into the town of Timhanah, being so disgusted +with the people of Sebhah. Apparently Timhanah is +half the size of Sebhah, and walled with mud and stones. +The country around offers the usual prospect of palms +and patches of corn cultivation, with wells in each field +for irrigation. These oases are most annoyingly alike, +and one description must serve for all. The inhabitants +fancy I am a Turk, and ask me to speak Turkish. Others +shun me as such; and since the Turks, in passing these +oases, levy upon the inhabitants hospitality by force, this +may be the cause of the little good feeling manifested +by them to strangers. Essnousee, for whom I am beginning +to entertain the most intense disgust, amused himself +this evening with most unmercifully beating his slaves. +I could not find out the cause. The females usually +catch it most. I cannot tell the reason, except it be, +they are more difficult to reduce to a regimen, or system +of travelling, and are always fond of playing some<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-385" id="V2-385"></a>[<a href="images/2-385.png">385</a>]</span> +innocent pranks. The lively things certainly make more +noise and botheration than the males. We are to purchase +dates here, they being cheap and of good quality. +The townspeople come to see me write, but I lose patience +with them, knowing them to be such a nasty set. Bad +rulers make bad subjects. The Turks would make any +people suspicious and inhospitable. However, when I +left the place, some of them came forward to lend a +hand in loading the camel, a mark of friendship, which +showed me they would be hospitable if their hospitality +were not abused by the Turks. To my surprise, this +morning a lad of our ghafalah was struck by a scorpion. +I did not expect to see scorpions this time of the +year. The scorpion was killed instantly. It was a +small one, and its stroke feeble, for the lad complained +very little, and I heard no more of the matter. In the +Apocalypse, locusts are represented as striking a man +like scorpions, although they are by nature harmless, so +far as wounding humankind is concerned. It is well +to observe, the Saharan people always speak of scorpions +as not stinging but striking a man, the verb used being +‮ضرب‬, "to beat," "to strike." So in chap. ix. 5, it is +said, <ins class="grk" title="Greek: kai ho basanismos autôn hôs basanismos schorpiou, hotan paidê anthrôpon">καὶ ὁ βασανισμὸς αὐτων ὡς βασανισμὸς σχορπίου, ὄταν παίδῃ ἄνθρωπον</ins> +("and their torment [i. e., <i>inflicted +by locusts</i>] was as the torment of a scorpion, when he +striketh a man").</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-47" id="FoN_2-47"></a><a href="#FNa_2-47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> <i>Atkah</i> is the freedom document. On the liberation of a slave, +this is signed by the Kady, in the presence of two witnesses. A +freed slave has it generally about him. But after he is known, and +has resided long in one place, it is no longer thought of. When a +batch of slaves are liberated on the death of their master, they follow +him to his burial, carrying the âtkah tied at the top of long rods.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-48" id="FoN_2-48"></a><a href="#FNa_2-48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> The prayer to God is a chorus sung by the whole troop. +When not fatigued, and in good health, the Negresses will sing +from morning to night.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-386" id="V2-386"></a>[<a href="images/2-386.png">386</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a>CHAPTER XXVIII.</h2> + +<h3>FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Continued delays.—Confidence of the Slaves in the Kafer (myself).—Supply +them with Water.—Negro Youths exhibit Sham-Fighting.—Commissions +recorded in Journal.—Missionary Labour +in Central Africa.—Beer Tagheetah.—Palms of Ghurmeedah.—A +Fezzanee's description of his Country.—Reading +on the Camel's Back.—Arrive at the Village of Zeghen.—French +Patent Soup.—Young Camels broken in.—Omm El-Abeed.—Essnousee +sermonizes on "What is Good in this +World."—Various Races of Fezzan.—My extreme exhaustion.—The +Flogging of the Mandara Slave by Essnousee.—Illusions +of Desert Sands.—Plateau magnifying objects.—Horrid Waste.—How +restored from Fatigue.—Digging a Well by the order of +the Turks.—Slaves benighted.—Gibel Asoud.—Well of Ghotfah.—Meet +Reinforcements of Arab Cavalry.—Arrival at +Sockna.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>13th.</i>—<span class="smcap">To-day</span> we came but a short distance, leaving +late and encamping about half-past 2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> Our object +is to allow the camels to feed well, for there will now +be little or no herbage for them until we arrive at +Sockna, a distance of some six days. Respecting all +these delays, I can say with the most heartfelt sincerity, +"Here is the patience of (travellers)." The poor slaves +know by instinct the encampment of the Kafer to be a +friendly one, notwithstanding the Moors and Arabs persist +ungenerously in teaching these poor things to call +me kafer, or infidel, and to look upon me with a species +of horror. For water, they come to us continually. To +deposit a little bazeen, or flour-pudding, in the evening +until the morning, they come to us, finding it secure in<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-387" id="V2-387"></a>[<a href="images/2-387.png">387</a>]</span> +our hands. Not to be beaten, they come to us, crouching +down by me, and getting out of the way of the whip +behind my back. In this way the poor things show +their confidence in the man whom their masters teach +them to look upon as an enemy of God! Although the +wells are numerous, only a certain supply of water is +carried, and a small quantity is served out to the slaves. +They frequently require a little water before the time of +departing arrives, and come to me, looking up wistfully, +putting their fingers to their parched and cracking lips. +Said looks after them, and gives them as much of our +water as he dares, fearing we shall be short ourselves.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Should ye ever be one of a fainting band,</span> +<span class="i0">With your brow to the sun, and your feet to the sand,</span> +<span class="i0">Traverse The Desert, and then you can tell,</span> +<span class="i0">What treasures exist in the cold deep well;</span> +<span class="i0">Sink in despair on the red parched earth,</span> +<span class="i0">And then you may reckon what water is worth."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>The Negro youths are practising some of their wild +sports and warrior tricks. Three on one side and +three on the other set to work to bring off a sham-fight. +The youths made arrows of the branches of the +palm, and, holding up a portion of their clothes for a shield, +they throw these palm-branch arrows with great force and +precision, almost always hitting one another. This they +continued for some time. As the arrows are thrown by +the party of one side they are picked up by the other. +When a man falls by a slip or otherwise, the opposing +combatants fight over his body with great obstinacy and +animation. This was the prettiest scene of the wild +fight. The real arrow used in the interior is usually +poisoned. The Negroes are expert in discovering and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-388" id="V2-388"></a>[<a href="images/2-388.png">388</a>]</span> +preparing vegetable poisons, as men of all countries are +in inventing weapons for their own destruction. The +Negroes have their Captain Warners as well as we. +Bundles of these poisoned arrows were exposed for sale +at Ghat, together with bullocks'-hide shields. Whilst +the lads are thus passing their time, the lasses are +combing, dressing, and oiling their hair, or washing and +cleaning, or decorating themselves, or playing with their +little trinkets of glass beads and chains; thus clearly +defining the tastes of the male and female Negro animal. +It is much the same amongst us civilized brutes. Men +fight and quarrel one way or the other, and the +women flirt and dress. The occupation of the women +is the more harmless. Perhaps we are getting a +little better. Men begin to think there is more noble +employment in the world than cutting one another's +throats, and deifying the wholesale assassins who destroy +them; women, too, seem disposed to prove that they +have something else to attend to, besides setting off and +conserving their beauty. We have with us a youth +sent for sale to Tripoli by the Bashaw of Fezzan, who +it seems must dabble in slave-dealing, notwithstanding +his imprecations against the merchants of Ghadames for +the same crime. He is from Mandara, and was kidnapped +by the Tibboos. This is the captain of all the +sham-fighters, and the leader and prompter of all other +sports on the way. There is always one who assumes +superiority over the rest, in every troop of human +beings; so it was in the beginning, and so it will ever +continue to be.</p> + +<p>I see by my notes I have various commissions to +execute—if—if—if I return to Mourzuk <i>en route</i>. First<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-389" id="V2-389"></a>[<a href="images/2-389.png">389</a>]</span> +for the Sheikh of Bornou, I am to bring a small coining-machine +to make a copper-currency, replacing the +present inconvenient system of pieces of cotton called +Ghubgha<a name="FNa_2-49" id="FNa_2-49"></a><a href="#FoN_2-49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a>. Next, I am to bring Congreve-rockets, by +which the Sheikh may set on fire the straw-hut cities of +his enemies; but I should think a good drill-serjeant +would be better than rockets. Finally, some instructions, +in the Arabic language, for preparing indigo, and +bees'-wax, and tanning leather. This last memorandum +of the commission is infinitely more grateful to +one's feelings, as promoting the useful arts in Central +Africa, than either establishing a base currency, +or multiplying the weapons of destruction. For the +Bashaw of Fezzan is to be brought a splendid gold +watch. The Greek Doctor wants an Italian Medical +Dictionary, and a small case of surgical instruments; and +for Mr. Gagliuffi I am to bring everything which may be +useful to him. The Consul very justly recommends, the +teaching Negroes the useful arts as the only means +of permanently extinguishing the traffic in slaves. He +also recommends the introducing of Missionaries into +the Pagan countries, Mandara and Begharmy, beyond +and neighbouring to Bornou, as an important means of +civilizing Africa. But, it is to be understood, that the +Missionaries should go as merchants, and, like Paul, +work with their own hands at mechanical trades. It +must not be a wild-goose chase of empty declamation,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-390" id="V2-390"></a>[<a href="images/2-390.png">390</a>]</span> +but a thoroughly conscientious project, wrought out +according to the circumstances of the country, with discretion +and courage. In this way it would, with the +blessing of Providence, succeed admirably. The Moravians +alone have successfully applied themselves to this +kind of Missionary labour.</p> + +<p>Passed a well this morning, on our left, called Beer +Tagheetah. There is water in many places where no +attempt is made to cultivate the cultivable soil. I asked +an Arab of Timhanah why more land was not cultivated? +"We have no bullocks, no asses; we cannot +draw up the water—we want money," was the reply. +This sort of answer is applicable to almost every country +in Europe. Our encampment is at the place called +Ghurmeedah. Here are only two or three untenanted +huts, where the date-watchers sleep or repose during the +season. This small forest of palms belongs to Zeghen. +Took a little cuscasou with some Arabs who have joined +us, being hired by Essnousee to carry dates for the +slaves. Giving an account of their country, they say, +"Fezzan is a country of poor people; it always was so: +we have only the date-palm. This is our riches. If the +sea came up to Fezzan, then we would ship dates for +Tripoli; but as it is, they are too heavy—they don't pay +the expense of carrying to Tripoli. We have besides, a +little corn, but not cattle enough to draw water to increase +this cultivation. Many of the people live only +on dates and hasheesh (herbs). We eat the ghoteb." In +the abandoned huts I found three or four women just +come from Zeghen. They were collecting and boiling +the ghoteb, which they sell in their town; it eats very +cooling and pleasant with dates. If I recollect, it is<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-391" id="V2-391"></a>[<a href="images/2-391.png">391</a>]</span> +something like the barilla-plant. I tasted the herb, but +could make nothing of it. Nevertheless, the inhabitants +of Fezzan are apparently healthy and happy. Providence +blesses this poor dish of herbs, and makes it +palatable and nourishing.</p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—Rose with the sun's rising, and started with +the first scattering of the bright orient beams. Course +over an undulating surface of mostly sandy soil, but firm +to the camel's foot. In various places is scattered a +great quantity of the common black volcanic shingle, and +which, indeed, covers a fifth of The Sahara I have traversed. +Essnousee tells me this stone contains iron, for +so, reported our countrymen of the two former expeditions +in Fezzan. The Turks of Mourzuk assert the same +thing, though not very great authorities in geology. +This shingle has certainly a most ferruginous appearance. +About three hours after leaving our encampment we +passed the town of Semnou on our right. Our people +read on the camel's back. Essnousee pretends to devotional +reading. I never attempted reading on the camel, +in order to preserve my eyes, though by no means difficult. +An European who has to traverse these Saharan +solitudes might supply himself with a few entertaining +books, in large type, and while away many lonely and +tedious hours, when riding on the camel's back. Only +one of the slaves is sick, to whom I give a ride every +morning. The rest go pretty well—in fact, our short +days' journeys, during these last several days, are a trifle +to us all.</p> + +<p>Arrived at Zeghen at 2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> Don't feel very strong. +Ought to eat more, but can't get meat. Had a good +drink of camel's milk this morning. Tired of cuscasou,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-392" id="V2-392"></a>[<a href="images/2-392.png">392</a>]</span> +and now like bazeen better. Several of the people come +to see me, apparently more hospitable than those of +Sebhah. They are all very poor, scarcely existing, ground +down to the dust of The Desert. Went into the town. +People got talking of religion. The presence of a person +of another faith always suggests the subject to these unsophisticated +people. I declared to them, that as the +Great God was "The Most Merciful," every good man of +every nation, be he Mahometan, Christian, or Jew, might +expect the Divine favour. This doctrine was too liberal +for some, others approved. Moors, in all these discussions, +speak a good deal about hell-fire. They think, at +least, this will shake a Christian's courage. They are +very sensible to corporal torments themselves, like all +barbarians or semi-civilized people. But, poor idiots, +they don't know that we denounce them as the future +inhabitants of the same place,—"Companions of The +Fire." A Marabout came and listened, who evidently +was one of the fools so kindly and humanely taken care +of by Barbary people. The idiot had ostrich feathers +round his breast, and a circlet of large beads in his +hands, which he kept telling with a vacant stare. He +begged of me, but I gave him nothing, having nothing +to give. Population of Zeghen, about a third or fourth-rate +town of these oases, is estimated at 200 men, 300 +women, and 700 children and slaves. There are always +a few more women than men in these Saharan towns. +This surplus of women is kept up by importing female +slaves from Central Africa. There the men perish in +wars, or otherwise are enslaved for the Western Coast, +and a surplus of women is left for the North.</p> + +<p>This evening arrived the courier from Mourzuk, who<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-393" id="V2-393"></a>[<a href="images/2-393.png">393</a>]</span> +took charge of a small packet of French patent soup, +which I left behind. Mr. Gagliuffi had had this soup +three years, and it was still very good. It is preserved +in thin pieces like dried glue. It requires only boiling +with a little salt, and then is pretty good. In long +Desert journeying it would be easy to take a supply of +this sort of preserved soup, as well as potted meat. On +the address of the packet was, "Signore Richardson—Mr. +Gagliuffi—God bless him."</p> + +<p><i>15th.</i>—This morning, at starting, I was very much +amused at seeing two young camels loaded for the first +time with a few trifling things, to break them in. They +are only one year old. The little reprobates cried and +groaned, and grumbled most piteously; one would have +thought they were about to be killed, with the knife at +their throats. The Arabs, to prevent their crying, throw +some sand into their open mouths. By this little bit of +barbarity, the poor young things were obliged to cease +crying to chew the unwelcome bolus of sand. When +laden, they started off as mad, trying to throw off their +load. Do they know, by their powerful and foreseeing +instinct, that this was the beginning of their painful +labours and journeyings? and do they thus resist the imposition +of burthens with all their youthful ardour and +strength? A young camel remains with its mother and +sucks a whole year. It is five years before the camel +attains maturity of growth and strength.</p> + +<p>Our route is north, over what the French call <i>la terre +accidentée</i>. It was the <i>bonâ fide</i> Sahara, and wore its +rugged face of desolation. But, after continuing five +hours, we encamped at the Omm-El-Abeed, or "Mother" +or "Country of Slaves," so called probably because the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-394" id="V2-394"></a>[<a href="images/2-394.png">394</a>]</span> +slave-caravans stop here to take in a good supply of +water for four days on the highway of Tripoli. Whatever +its name, this is a fair spot, abounding with excellent +water near the surface. There are two wells, and +both full to overflowing. The water is slightly impregnated +with iron. Herbage around is abundant, and wild +palms give it the appearance of an oasis. Essnousee, +who is a sagacious fellow, justly remarked to me:—"If +this country were in the hands of Christians, they would +make it a fruitful garden, palms would be planted, corn +sown, and houses built." The Moorish merchants can +appreciate the superior industry and intelligence of Europeans. +Undoubtedly, the presence of abundant good water, +and a soil composed of a mixture of sand and earth, +(the essential ingredients for a fruitful oasis,) would, in +other hands, soon render this spot a paradise in Desert. +It rejoices my heart to contemplate the future—if perchance +that future come—when this Saharan region +shall fall into the hands of another Government, be invaded, +circumscribed, and reduced on every side, and +such a conquest over The Desert made by the hand of +industry, as to render it a garden of the Hesperides, and to +blossom as the rose. In another century, or a century +after that, this may be the case. Even Moors, the worst +people of the world in looking forward to improvements, +have in many of these oases planted young palms, and +already reaped the benefit in an increasing crop of dates, +although, unfortunately, more from necessity than forethought +have they been actuated. What may then be +expected from men who adopt the principle of progress! +Oftentimes I have connected, in imagination, the shores +of the Mediterranean with the banks of the Niger, by a<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-395" id="V2-395"></a>[<a href="images/2-395.png">395</a>]</span> +series of uninterrupted palmy oases, with jutting fountains, +and silvery streams of living water, and cool shady +resting-places for weary caravans. Hope is still my consolation +in travelling through this thirsty dreary wilderness. +Better to feed the mind with these expectations, +even should they be illusory, than sighing and groaning +over the desolations of Africa.</p> + +<p>This evening took a little cuscasou with Essnousee. +After supper the eternal subject of religion was brought +forward by this slave-driver. He cannot comprehend +my travelling, and thinks I must have some secret mission. +He was more surprised when I told him I should +visit the New World after exploring Africa, for this +shifted his suspicions from Mahometan countries. Essnousee, +like others of his countrymen, cannot comprehend +notions of enterprise and discovery in travel. How +should he? What country has a Moor? What purposes +of renown and glory can fill him with a patriotic +ambition? Nevertheless, a Moor has three passions, +those of gain—sensuality—and religion, which latter +sentiment often at, or even before, the close of life, +absorbs the other two, yet itself degenerating into +superstition and fanaticism. These passions make up +the end and compass of the being of a Moor, the objects +of all his pursuits through life. On the latter of these +sentiments or passions, Haj Essnousee, a thoroughly bad +man himself, took the liberty of addressing me these +words, in reply to my demand of "What is good in this +world?" "If you wish to do a good thing," said the slave-driver, +"do this, abandon your country and your friends. +Forget you were born a Christian. Go to Egypt—there +turn Mussulman. Then go to Mecca. There read and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-396" id="V2-396"></a>[<a href="images/2-396.png">396</a>]</span> +study all the day, and all the days of your life. See +and hear the time of prayers announced from El-Kaaba<a name="FNa_2-50" id="FNa_2-50"></a><a href="#FoN_2-50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a>. +Pray at Fidger, Subah and Aser, Mugreb and Lailah<a name="FNa_2-51" id="FNa_2-51"></a><a href="#FoN_2-51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a>. +Observe well the burying-place where the body of the +Prophet is laid, and be assured that if you are buried +there, you will rise up at the Resurrection to Paradise. +This is the good work I counsel you to do, but you won't +do it." I smiled at this fine speech, and asked the slave-merchant +to give up his trade, go to Mecca, and carry +out that which he so eloquently recommended me to do. +This turning the thing on himself displeased him, and the +zealous preacher dropped his sermon in a moment.</p> + +<p>Fezzan, with its numerous and large oases, offers for +investigation to the physiologist, the three distinct species +or varieties of the human race which overspread all +Central Africa, viz., The Arabs and Moors, the Touaricks, +and the Negroes,—and these all mixed and blended +together, of all shades of colour, stature, and configuration. +The Arabs and Moors abound this side Mourzuk. +Sebhah and Zeghen are all Arabs and Moors. The +Touaricks are found in the Wady Ghurbee, and are +occupied chiefly in a pastoral life, leading their flocks +through open Desert. Some live in the villages of The +Wady. But these Touaricks are not subjects of the +chieftains of Ghat. The Negroes begin at Mourzuk, and +extend south in all the districts of Fezzan, as far as the +Tibboos. Ghatroun, I am informed, has an entire population +of coloured people, under the protection of a +Marabout.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-397" id="V2-397"></a>[<a href="images/2-397.png">397</a>]</span></p><p><i>16th.</i>—Another day lost. We stop here to-day to +take in water, (as if we did not arrive soon enough yesterday +to take in water for a hundred times our number,) +and to let the camels feed. Felt, however, excessively +weak, and very nervous to-day. At one moment, I +seemed as if I were placed in an exhausting-receiver, +and was about to give up the ghost. It's perhaps as +well for my health, we don't go on quicker. According +to the report of the Fezzaneers, there is fever in every +oasis during the summer, and considerable mortality. +Eating dates continually in the summer must create a +great deal of heat in the system, and thus it is not surprising +that fever prevails.</p> + +<p>Evening, just at sunset, the Mandara slave came near +to my encampment and mumbled something to my Negro +servant. Looking at him, I saw he asked Said to beg +me to do something on his behalf. In a few minutes, a +slave belonging to another master came up to him and +began to console him, saying, "Go, go." They both +then took up handfuls of sand and scattered it upon +their foreheads and chins, as if performing some incantations +to avert an impending evil. This done, they +both burst into tears, and sobbed aloud. By this time, +I learnt from Said that Haj Essnousee had sent for the +Mandara slave to beat him. I then asked, "For what?" +The slaves replied, "For nothing." This I could not +believe. Looking towards the encampment of Essnousee, +I saw the slave-driver greatly excited, and heard him +call to two other slaves, "Fetch him, fetch him." These +slaves, (I almost cursed them in my heart,) came running +to my encampment like two bloodhounds, and seized the +wretched slave, their brother in bondage, and dragged<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-398" id="V2-398"></a>[<a href="images/2-398.png">398</a>]</span> +him off to the enraged slave-driver. The poor fellow, +from fear and trembling, could not stand upon his legs, +and was held up by his captors. The Mandara slave +being brought to Essnousee, and the two captors having +pinned him down, this ferocious Moor took him aside +and flogged him with a huge slave-whip until The +Desert was literally filled with his cries! continuing to +flagilate his bare body until he (Essnousee) was himself +exhausted by administering the brutal flogging. The +Arabs of our caravan, who were near, got upon their +legs, from sheer annoyance at the sound of the whip and +the cries of the slave, but, like dastardly wretches, contented +themselves with looking on, silent and motionless. +I felt, at the time, extreme contempt for what are called +"the brave and gallant sons of The Desert." I was not +near enough, on my journey to Tripoli, to justify any +effectual interference on my part. Afterwards I went +up to Haj Essnousee and asked him, why he had flogged +the slave? He answered still greatly excited, "He'll +not eat; he's a devil; it is necessary there should be one +devil amongst my slaves." His nephew observed, as a +hopeful pupil of his merciless uncle, "He's a thief, he +robs us." This is the only satisfaction I could get; but +from the rest of the caravan I learnt that the poor +Mandara slave was flogged for no other reason except to +gratify the capricious cruelty of Essnousee. This Sockna +Moor was born to be a slave-dealer and slave-driver, a +cunning ferocity and genuine Moorish sensuality being +impressed upon his Cain-like countenance. I was enabled +to study his character on our way, but study was scarcely +requisite to discover the mark of the first murderer +stamped on his brow. When too indolent to beat his<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-399" id="V2-399"></a>[<a href="images/2-399.png">399</a>]</span> +slaves he would throw stones at them; when flogging the +female slaves, if he could not succeed in rousing their sensibilities +as they dropped from exhaustion in The Desert, +he would poke up their persons with a stick. This +Saharan villain was thoroughly imbued with the principle +of an English duke, "That he (Haj Essnousee) had +a right to do what he liked with his own," and did not +scruple to mutilate a slave to satisfy his demoniac caprice, +in spite of its losing half of its price or value in the +market. Poor miserables are those pro-slavery writers, +who argue that a man will take care of his slaves because +they are his own property! Why did not the imperial +tyrants of Rome defend the liberties of their people, +because they were their own people? Neither human +nor divine law can permit any man, even a good man, to +have absolute property in his fellows, much less a bad +man or a tyrant. But Haj Essnousee is not altogether +an unmixed monster; he has something of enterprise and +an active intelligence about him, to redeem him from +complete execration. Seeing me disconcerted about his +whipping the slave, he observed,</p> + +<p>"There are two fine wells here, have you written +them? You must give a good account of everything to +your Sultan."</p> + +<p>I then returned to the other slave-masters, owners of +seven slaves, and said, "Why do you let a poor wretch +be flogged to death in this way and not interfere?"</p> + +<p>They replied, "Oh, you yourself should interefere; +we're frightened at Haj Essnousee."</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"You then wish me to interfere,—I, who am a +Christian, and an Englishman, and we English have no +slaves,—and you wish me to meddle with your business?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-400" id="V2-400"></a>[<a href="images/2-400.png">400</a>]</span></p> + +<p>Another Moor said, "Ah, Yâkob, we know if it had +been a Christian flogging a Christian, you would have +interfered. But we are an accursed race, our merchants +fear not God. And when one does wrong, another will +not speak to him, and tell him he does wrong to himself +and God."</p> + +<p>After this we had no more flogging to Sockna. I +hinted to these people, something might be said by the +English Consul to the Bashaw of Tripoli about this +flogging work. The remark was probably reported to +Essnousee. I made up my mind, if the poor fellow was +flogged again, to get him to run away at Tripoli, or into +a consulate, and then divulge the affair. It may be +mentioned here, that two days before arriving at Sockna, +I turned to look at one of the female slaves, who was +last of all, and being driven along by the whip, with +several others, and thought I saw symptoms of insanity +marked in her face. "Why," I observed to the driver, +"this woman is mad!" "Mad!" he replied; "No, she +went blind yesterday." On examining her, I found she +was both blind and mad from over-driving. What a +happiness if the poor creature had died or been flogged +to death! She would then have escaped two of the +heaviest of human calamities, as well as the curse of +slavery.</p> + +<p><i>17th.</i>—On leaving Omm-El-Abeed, after a couple of +hours, we traversed some sand hillocks, all dismounting +to lighten the camels. The sand deceived my vision +frequently in walking. Looking at some heaps over +which I was pacing, I imagined them at a considerable +distance off, when, to my amazement, I found them under +my feet in an instant. It might be partly owing to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-401" id="V2-401"></a>[<a href="images/2-401.png">401</a>]</span> +dizziness of riding. The sand was a deep shining red. +At another time a hillock of sand seemed projecting +near my face, and putting out my hand to feel it, I +found nothing but thin air. More sand encumbers this +route than that between Ghadames and Ghat. After a +couple of hours of sand we ascended an elevated rocky +plateau, continuing our route north till night. This was +a long, long day, full of weariness and misery. Nothing +for the camels to eat, and we were obliged to give them +dates. The poor slaves drooped and were dumb. The +frown of God was stamped on this region! For—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Here rocks alone and trackless sands are found,</span> +<span class="i0">And faint and sickly winds for ever howl around."</span> +</div></div> + +<p><i>18th.</i>—Continued our course over the plateau. It +was now become hard sun-baked earth, and bare of +herbage. As upon the plain of the celebrated Tenezrouft, +objects here become greatly magnified in the +distance, exceeding the most powerful magnifying lens. +In the simple and bold language of our camel-drivers, +"A man becomes a camel, and a camel becomes a +mountain." Some bones of a camel, at a distance +of less than a quarter of a mile, looked like a living +camel going along with several people, the white bones +representing the burnouses of the men. A small white +stone, not ten inches high, appeared to be several feet in +height, at the distance of a quarter of an hour's ride. +And so of the few other discernible objects on this wide +expanse of optical delusion. Mirage was seen at times, +but nothing pretty. We encamped late, midway through +the vast plateau, when shadowy night began to establish +her sable throne, in "rayless majesty," over this silent,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-402" id="V2-402"></a>[<a href="images/2-402.png">402</a>]</span> +sombre Desert. On such a horrid waste as this, when +crime and murder shall have depopulated the world, the +last man will breathe his last sigh! Another long and +weary day was this. With difficulty could I descend +from my camel, and when I did, I was unable to stand. +My plan is, immediately on descending from the camel +to take a table-spoonful of rum and swallow it neat. +This restores me to a consciousness of the objects around +me, and then I lie down an hour, whilst supper is +preparing. An hour's rest generally enables me to get +up and walk. If restored sufficiently, I go to chat half +an hour with my companions of travel; if not, I never +rise till the next morning. I found the rum of essential +advantage in restoring me to consciousness. I am +indebted to the Greek Doctor for it. One bottle +lasted me from Mourzuk to four days within reaching +Tripoli.</p> + +<p><i>19th.</i>—Continued the route of the plateau till the +afternoon, when with a low range of mountains on our +left, we entered a hilly undulating country, having stones, +some good sized blocks, scattered thick over all the +surface of the ground. In the small intervening valleys +were a few acacias, and a little herbage for our camels. +But behold a wonder! At noon, we passed through one +of these small valleys, when to my thorough and complete +amazement, we found a few men and a tent pitched. +Doing what? Oh, wonder of wonders! These men +were digging a well at the command of the Turks! +Formerly the Turks in Barbary did nothing but fill up +the wells, or let them be filled up. Another day has +dawned over "the spirit of their dream." The Ottomans +now begin to see that they must step forward in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-403" id="V2-403"></a>[<a href="images/2-403.png">403</a>]</span> +march of improvement, or be blotted out of existence, +as a nation of the earth. This is the most difficult part +of the route in coming up from Tripoli to Mourzuk, and +the object of digging the well is to reduce the distance +where water may be taken in to two and a half or +three days, instead of four or five, which is now the case. +The new well is already dug very deep, and I am sorry +this extraordinary enterprise of the Turks, that of digging +a well in The Desert, has not yet been crowned +with success. Water would be found at last, but I have +my misgivings about their perseverance. The French +scientific officers, who have examined the Saharan districts +of Algeria, are of opinion, that Artesian wells +might be bored through every part of The Desert, and +all these vast solitudes be linked together with chains of +wells. Nothing is too great for the enterprising genius +of man!</p> + +<p>We encamped late in one of these valleys. The +male slaves went to fetch wood. They were benighted, +and could not return, or find their way back. A horse-pistol +was fired three times, and these reports brought +them into the encampment. Our Moors recommend me, +when at any time benighted in The Desert, never to +move, but wait for some sign or signal, or report of firearms, +or until a person be sent in pursuit of me. This +the slaves did, and were enabled to return. Had they +wandered about, they would probably have got a long +way out of the track, or from the encampment, and +not heard the report of the pistol. To show the improvidence +of our Moors, we had only just powder enough +for these three discharges.</p> + +<p><i>20th.</i>—Continued through the undulating country<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-404" id="V2-404"></a>[<a href="images/2-404.png">404</a>]</span> +until we got fairly amidst massy mountainous groups of +considerable altitude. These mountains are covered +with small blocks of black (iron) stone, and ferruginous +shingle. These immense groups are called Gibel Asoud, +"Black Mountain." I went, on foot, with Essnousee and his +slaves, "the short-cut," or mountain foot-path of Nifdah, +leaving the camels to go round by the other, or camel route, +of En-Nishka. I found, however, this "short-cut" a very +long one, and dreadfully fatiguing. I recommend all +travellers never to believe in the short-cuts of the Arabs, +for they are sure to be deceived. These people have no +ideas of distance or time. Only conceive a weak and +exhausted traveller, like myself, climbing up and down +groups of mountains for two weary hours. At length +we descended into the valley where is the well of +Ghotfa. We only remained an hour to rest, and drank +a little water, not encamping at the well. We proceeded +to meet the camels by the camel route. On +overtaking them, we encamped at night-fall. This was +another long and weary day, and made our fourth from +Omm-El-Abeed. Our slaves were exhausted to the uttermost; +their song, with which they were wont to cheer +themselves, was never heard: their plaintive choruses +never broke over the silence of Desert! It was to-day, +whilst threading the precipitous mountain-path, I observed +the unhappy negress, who went blind and mad by overdriving. +Our route to-day is graphically described by +Denham, and the passage being short, I shall copy it. "We +had now to pass the Gibel Asoud, or Black Mountain. +The northernmost part of this basaltic chain commences +on leaving Sockna. We halted at Melaghi (or place of +meeting); immediately at the foot of the mountain is the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-405" id="V2-405"></a>[<a href="images/2-405.png">405</a>]</span> +well of Agutifa (Ghotfa,) and from hence, probably, the +most imposing view of these heights will be seen. To the +south, the mountain-path of Nifdah presents its black +overhanging peaks, the deep chasm round which the +path winds, bearing a most cavern-like appearance. A +little to the west, the camel-path, called En-Nishka, +appears scarcely less difficult and precipitous, the more +southern crags close the landscape, while the foreground +is occupied by the dingy and barren Wady of Agutifa, +with the well immediately overhung by red ridges of limestone +and clay, the whole presenting a picture of barrenness +not to be perfectly described either by poet or painter." +By this craggy gorge the plateau above-mentioned is +entered, and it is frequently by such gorges, which seem +to be the buttresses of the plateaus, that the elevated +Saharan plains are approached.</p> + +<p>About noon we met a reinforcement of Arab cavalry +on the way to Mourzuk, to intercept the son of Abd-El-Geleel, +in the event of his returning during the spring +to Egypt or the Syrtis. I found the reputed six reduced +to two hundred men, and most <i>triste</i> cavaliers, mounted +on still more miserable horses. The stories which we +have read of the fondness of the Arab for his horse were +sadly belied by the fact of the condition of this troop. +Indeed, an Arab treats his horse much in the same way +as his wife—most miserably bad. This <i>triste</i> troop, +worthy the command of the Knight of La Mancha, was a +faithful picture of the wretched condition of the province +of Tripoli. On passing me, some saluted, and +others stared. Said met a former fellow-slave of the +island of Jerbah going under the protection of this +escort. The freed slave gave a confused account of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-406" id="V2-406"></a>[<a href="images/2-406.png">406</a>]</span> +last act of abolition of the Bey of Tunis. He was on +his way to Begharmy, his native country. I observed a +Turkish officer, having a sort of sedan-chair, swinging on +the back of a camel, a good thing for an European +female travelling in these countries, and not a bad thing +for a worn-down emaciated tourist like myself. I envied +him this Desert luxury.</p> + +<p><i>21st.</i>—Started with the first solar rays, and as we +journeyed on, the valley of Ghotfa widened, till we found +ourselves traversing an immense plain, at the extreme +north of which, and on the west, we saw the palms of +Sockna. We had seen them yesterday indistinctly from +the peaks of Gibel Asoud. We continued our route for +four hours, when we arrived at Sockna. There is still +a goodly number of palms, notwithstanding the thousands +destroyed by Abd-El-Geleel when besieging this +place. The trunks of the destroyed palms still remain, +and look like a leafless forest in winter, or as if blasted +with lightning. But these Arabs, either in building up +or in throwing down, never do their work effectually. +Tired of their work of destruction, they thus, happily, +left the inhabitants a considerable number of palms, +affording a good stock of dates. We were met near the +gates of the city by the friends and relatives of our +people. Some of them gave me a salute, but I am now +so half-Moorishly dressed, or Turk-like, that I am not +readily distinguished as a Christian. When within the +walls, the heat and the refraction of the sun's rays from +the stone walls were so intense, that I really thought +my face would have been burnt up. With a little +patience we were domiciled in the dark room of an +empty house, where I went to bed at 3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, and did<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-407" id="V2-407"></a>[<a href="images/2-407.png">407</a>]</span> +not get up till the evening of the next day. During +these hot sultry glaring days in Desert, how grateful is +darkness,—how much better than light. On arriving +at a station, I find it the best thing possible to lie down +an hour or two, and, if in a town, where we are to +remain a few days, to go to bed at once. This is the only +way to recover effectually, and far better than food or +stimulants. Since leaving Tripoli I have not performed +a more arduous journey than these last five days. Our +days' journeys were at least fourteen or fifteen hours +long. In summer it requires seven days, or five short +days and five long nights. On the road, there were no +animals or living creatures, except a few lizards, starting +from under the camel's feet, as if to look who we were, +and ask why we had come to disturb their solitary basking +in the sun; and a few swallows, which seemed to +follow us to the well, or to the shores of the Mediterranean, +whence they will now skim their airy way to +the more temperate clime of Europe. I think, also, we +saw two birds not unlike snipes. But we shall soon +get within the region of birds and beasts.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-49" id="FoN_2-49"></a><a href="#FNa_2-49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> A <i>ghubgha</i> is a measure of six feet long, and measures pieces +of cotton six feet long (and three inches broad), from which circumstance +the currency is thus named. Four ghubghas form a rottol +or pound, and thirty rottols are of the value of a Spanish dollar. +This was the exchange in 1845.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-50" id="FoN_2-50"></a><a href="#FNa_2-50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> The Sanctum Sanctorum of the Temple of Mecca.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-51" id="FoN_2-51"></a><a href="#FNa_2-51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> The names of the five times of the day when Mussulmans +pray.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-408" id="V2-408"></a>[<a href="images/2-408.png">408</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIX" id="CHAPTER_XXIX"></a>CHAPTER XXIX.</h2> + +<h3>RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Visit to the Turkish Kaed of Sockna.—The Concubine of His Excellency.—Convoy +of Provisions for the Troops of Mourzuk.—The +number of Palms destroyed at Sockna by Abd-El-Geleel.—Population +of Sockna, and position of the Oasis.—Visit to the +Sockna Maraboutess.—The Lady honoured with "<i>Stigmata</i>," or +"Holy Marks."—Propriety or impropriety of assuming the +Moorish Character and the Mahometan Religion whilst Travelling +in Sahara.—Gardens of the Environs.—Find several old +Charms in my Lodgings.—Commerce and Merchants of Sockna.—Second +Visit to the Maraboutess; her Character and Occupation—Visit +the Kaed; he compliments Christians.—Panoramic +view from the Castle of Sockna.—Description of the Castle.—Third +Visit to the Maraboutess.—Few Children in Sahara.—The +little Turk or Kaed suffering under the power of Epsom, +and very unwell.—Arrival of another Convoy.—Rain in North +Africa.—Parallel Ideas between The East and Africa.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>22nd.</i>—<span class="smcap">Got</span> up to write a little of my journal; found +myself greatly recovered. Essnousee called, and we +went to see the Turkish Governor in the evening. The +Governor is called Kaed, Bey, and generally Mudeer +Suleiman, by the people. We found his Excellency in +the midst of his business, squatting tailor-like upon a +raised bench of mud and lime, covered with a carpet. +The Mudeer seemed happy enough, his secretary sitting +below at his feet. He was very glad to see me, "For +people," he observed, "don't see Christians every day in +this horrid country." The Mudeer made me mount +his throne by his side, giving me his superfine cushion +to repose on, talking all the time; "Foolish men, you<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-409" id="V2-409"></a>[<a href="images/2-409.png">409</a>]</span> +Christians, to come to these horrible countries." From +this elevated position I was enabled to survey his Excellency's +receiving apartment, with the adjoining one. +It was a rich and varied scene; only Dickens could do +justice to any description of these state-rooms of the +Castle of Sockna. We had first the Mudeer, a little +dirty mean-looking Turk, most shabbily attired, with +some fifty or sixty winters on his Ottoman brow, but with +a sufficiently good-natured face. The Mudeer has been +only two months in Sockna. He was sent from Mourzuk, +and enjoys the confidence of Hasan Belazee. Before +him there was another Turkish Kaed of Sockna. The +continual jealousies and rivalries in these towns prevent +the Pacha from appointing them one of their native +Sheikhs. The Mudeer has been four years in Barbary, +but, like all the Turks, speaks Arabic very badly, with a +most detestable accent. The apartment of the Kaed is +a portion of the Castle, the passages to which are a mass +of ruins, and you are afraid of the walls or ceilings of +dilapidated rooms tumbling on your head. Sockna, like +Mourzuk, has its Castle, separated from the town. The +Mudeer's room is a wretched dirty barn, with a large +mud fire-place in the centre. Around it are now seated +a number of Moors, talking violently and quarrelling. +The Kaed cannot understand them, and calls out, +"What is it? what is it?" "Oh, nothing," they scream +out in turn, "we're only talking amongst ourselves." +The Turk turns to me:—"Christian, I am a Kaed of +beasts, not men, Drink your coffee now." There is +always a great mixture of freedom and awe, as it may +happen, in the intercourse between the Turks and +Moors. But the prime feature of the scene now under<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-410" id="V2-410"></a>[<a href="images/2-410.png">410</a>]</span> +consideration, is the Sockna doxy, whom the little +dirty Turk has closeted in an adjoining room. At +first she peeps out, but seeing only a Christian has +come in, she becomes more familiar, and at last sallies +out boldly, and begins romping with the Kaed's Negro +lad. This is a great lout of a fellow, who can't keep +from grinning. The Nigger lout is dressed in the +clothes of the new Turkish troops, and, as might be +expected, there is a rent behind, from which issues his +dirty linen, in all its nasty splendour. This the doxy now +seizes hold of, to the infinite amusement of his Excellency +the Governor, his Secretary, and various courtiers, +as likewise myself. The lady herself is not quite a +Desert maiden, skipping like a young roe over the mountains, +in untutored innocence or coyish bashfulness. She +is young, it is true, but full-blown and bloated, very big +about, and excessively dirty and nasty. The favourite +of the Mudeer is besides almost as black as a Negress, with +a pock-marked face. After dodging about with the Negro +clown some ten minutes, her eye catches the shape of a +huge ill-looking Turkish fellow, walking heavily into our +apartment, or hall of audience, and the Moorish damsel +immediately retires to her private boudoir.</p> + +<p>I was not aware of the presence in Sockna of another +Turk. He is in charge of a convoy of provisions for +the troops of Mourzuk, consisting of eighty camels laden +with oil, and rice, and mutton fat, boiled down. The +convoy has been detained ten days for want of camels. The +officer had been on as far as Ghotfa Wady, and returned, +his miserable camels dropping and dying. These provisions +are conveyed at the expense of the principal +towns through which the convoy passes. The discussion<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-411" id="V2-411"></a>[<a href="images/2-411.png">411</a>]</span> +going on to-day between the Kaed and the Sockna +people, was about obtaining the requisite number of +camels. The Kaed I now heard exclaim, "By G—d, +after to-morrow the camels must go!" The people, +"Impossible! they will die, they will die." I could +obtain no news from the Turk escorting the convoy. He +was an ignorant beast. But, curious enough, the fellow +was dressed as much like an European as he could well +be so travelling, with neckcloth, jacket, trousers strapped +over black shoes, and a large pair of leather gloves, which +he told me he found very useful in keeping the sun from +burning his hands.</p> + +<p>During my interview, the circumstance of Abd-El-Geleel +cutting down the palms of the suburbs because +the Sockna people would not surrender to his summons, +or acknowledge his authority, was mentioned. The +number cut down, by the besieging Sheikh, from 20,000 +was now raised to 120,000. Of course, this is exaggeration. +Unfortunately, however, the Sheikh destroyed +nearly all the best palms, those bearing most delicious +fruit, and which palms have rendered Sockna dates so +celebrated, whilst he left all the worst to spite the +people. It will require seven years merely to replace +them as fruit-bearing palms, and thirty or fifty years to +mature palms yielding fruit of the quantity and quality +of those destroyed. This it is which fills all Sockna +people with a thirst of vengeance to extirpate root and +branch the family of Abd-El-Geleel. The people themselves +have offered Government to defray the expense of +an expedition to Bornou, to cut off his son and all the +Oulad Suleiman. Essnousee, a good patriot, swears he +will not rest until he has had vengeance upon the Oulad<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-412" id="V2-412"></a>[<a href="images/2-412.png">412</a>]</span> +Suleiman; yet he is afraid to go to Bornou again whilst +they are there. He says:—"We (Sockna people) +muster 2,000 men, all fighting men, not women or +chickens, like the people of Ghadames. We fight like +the French. Our country is like France. The Bashaw +sends no troops to our assistance. He knows we can +defend ourselves." It is a fact they have no troops +here, although Sockna is the most important town of +these upper provinces. Since the conquest of Algiers by +the French, the Moors think France the greatest military +nation upon the face of the earth. If we reckon the +adult males of Sockna at the half of Essnousee's estimate, +the general population will be something like this +amount:—</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Population of Sockna"> +<tr><td align='left'>Men</td><td align='left'>1,000</td><td align='left'>souls</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Women</td><td align='left'>1,500</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Children and slaves</td><td align='left'>3,000</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='left'>———</td><td align='left'> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Total</td><td align='left'>5,500</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Sockna is often spoken of as distinct from the districts +of Fezzan, and so it really is; but others include both it +and Bonjem within the circle of these clusters of oases, +forming one province. The Turkish Kaed is more or less +dependant on the Bashaw of Mourzuk. His salary is not +very extravagant, twenty-five dollars per mensem. His +Excellency may make a little besides on his own account, +for this is hardly enough to keep him. Sockna is placed +in 29° 5′ 36″ north latitude, and has always been an +emporium of trade on the ancient line of communication +between Northern and Central Africa. In many respects +Sockna is like Ghadames. The principal inhabit<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-413" id="V2-413"></a>[<a href="images/2-413.png">413</a>]</span>ants +are a few rich merchants; provisions are scarce, +everything being imported, as the gardens afford but a +scanty supply of edible products, and all things are +extremely dear. Leo mentions that, in his times, both +Ghadames and Fezzan were dear places, and food scarce.</p> + +<p><i>23rd.</i>—Much better to-day in health, and rose early. +Wrote several letters, which were not sent on, curiosities +in their way, and scarcely now legible. Afternoon sent +a letter by the Shantah (courier) to Mr. Gagliuffi. It +will reach Mourzuk in eight days. A letter is also eight +days getting to Tripoli, in the opposite direction. This +evening all the town was occupied in buying a few sheep. +What people for business are these Moors! The sheep +were brought out, one by one, and bid for, as at an +auction. They were cheap, from two and a half dollars +to three each.</p> + +<p>Called upon some Sockna ladies, whose acquaintance +I made through the nephew of Essnousee. They were his +relations, and received us very kindly, <i>en famille</i>. These +ladies were occupied with worsted embroidery, at which +they earn a few paras. One is a Maraboutah, or Maraboutess. +She reads and writes a little, and this, with a +mind prone to religious ideas, constitutes her a saint. +Few are the Moorish or Arab female saints, for woman +is hardly dealt with by the Mahometan faith. There is +a celebrated tutelary goddess, or Maraboutah, near the +city of Tunis, who is invoked by all the women of the +country, and a pilgrimage is made to her shrine every +morning. The remarkable circumstance about this +Sockna Maraboutess is, that she is very weak about the +loins and cannot walk upright, being frequently carried +about. She says, and the people confirm her testimony,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-414" id="V2-414"></a>[<a href="images/2-414.png">414</a>]</span> +she has "holy marks" upon her, imprinted by some +supernatural being; I think the angel Gabriel was mentioned. +This reminds me of the "Stigmata" of Saint +Francis of Assisi, for doubting which "canonical fact," +Pope Ugolino was very near anathematizing the Bishop +of Olmutz. I therefore shall not doubt this prodigy, +equally well authenticated, lest I incur the excommunication +of the good people of Sockna. I had not the +pleasure of seeing the "holy marks" of the Maraboutess, +they being imprinted on an unobserved portion of her +body, but I cannot question their existence. It is wonderful +(a far greater prodigy!) what are the analogies of +religion and superstition. How like the feeling and +the sentiment! and in this case the very corporal marks +of the body! I asked the Maraboutess if she would +prefer the use of her limbs to these "holy marks." She +answered very quietly and properly, "As God wills, so I +will." The Sockna saint then put to me this question, +"If the English knew and worshipped God?" How +many times has this question been asked! And yet we, +in the pride of our conceit, imagine that we monopolize +all religion, as well as all virtue and science, presuming +all the world knows it, and recognizes our superiority. +My Maraboutess was pleased to hear that the English +knew God.</p> + +<p><i>24th.</i>—Copied a letter or two. Since my return, +looking over the published journal of the Bornou expedition, +I find this paragraph under the rubric of Sockna. +"And in this way we entered the town: the words +Inglesi! Inglesi! were repeated by a hundred voices +from the crowd. This, to us, was highly satisfactory, as +we were the first English travellers in Africa who had<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-415" id="V2-415"></a>[<a href="images/2-415.png">415</a>]</span> +resisted the persuasion that a disguise was necessary, and +who had determined to travel in our real character as +Britons and Christians<a name="FNa_2-52" id="FNa_2-52"></a><a href="#FoN_2-52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a>," &c. "In trying to make ourselves +appear as Mussulmans, we should have been set +down as real impostors." This is a most extraordinary +passage. The reader will hardly believe, or really cannot +believe after this, that these very parties themselves +were circumcised and attended the mosques. But such +was the case; I had it from unquestionable authority. +This is altogether too bad. A little decorating of an<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-416" id="V2-416"></a>[<a href="images/2-416.png">416</a>]</span> +incident, or a conversation, I imagine, is allowed to the +traveller, but this circumstance can hardly be passed by +without animadversion. However, when this was written, +the most conscientious man of the party (Oudney) was +dead. Clapperton did not write this portion of the +journal: for its composition Denham alone seems to be +responsible. I shall add no more, thanking God, that, +with all my follies, I did not commit such a folly, as first +to ape the Mussulman, and then repudiate it in print +before the world.</p> + +<p><i>25th.</i>—Took a walk and went to see the Kaed. His +Excellency was sitting outside, washed and clean shaved, +for once whilst I saw him, with a thin white burnouse +thrown over his shoulders. It was a saint's day with +him. His Excellency presented to me a cup of coffee +without sugar, but, Turk-like, when indulging in their +dreamy taciturnity, did not open his lips. However I +had nothing to say to him, nor he to me. Afterwards I +strolled through the suburbs to botanize. Visited the +nearest garden, and found the slaves occupied in irrigating +it. An old Moor gave me a little horticultural +information. It requires twelve years for growing a +good fruit-bearing palm; but, he admitted, a palm might +bear fruit within seven or eight years. Observed a male +palm. Instead of white flowers which the female palm +has at this season, the male has enormously long +broad hard pods, but also contains flowers. When the +flowers are fit for germination the pods will burst. The +flowers are then thrown over the female palm to produce +impregnation. The madder-root is here cultivated; it is +watered every third day. The leaves are cropped often, +but the root requires three years to come to perfection.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-417" id="V2-417"></a>[<a href="images/2-417.png">417</a>]</span> +Wheat and barley are watered in Sockna every other +day. Observed the tree called gharod, or gharoth, or +gurd; it bears a seed-pod which is used in tanning +leather, from its great astringency. In all the Sockna +gardens this tree abounds. It is a species of mimosa, +with a yellow flower, and small delicate leaves like the +acacia. It is a pretty tree, high, and spreading, perhaps +twenty feet in height. The seed-pod is sold one quarter +dollar the Fezzan kael, or measure, half a peck or so. +The gurd is also employed medicinally. I was glad to +see several young palms recently planted. I love progress; +everything in the shape and style of progress +delights me. Would to God the entire Desert was +covered with palms. But man would be just as corrupt +and unthankful! Being shut up in a dark room three +or four days, I felt the sun disagreeable, paining my eyes. +In returning, I stopped at a school and wrote for the +boys,</p> + +<p class="figcenter">‮بسم الله الرحمان الرحيم ربّ واحد وقادراً‬</p> + +<p>which delighted them beyond measure.</p> + +<p>A man, ran away to-day with his three camels, +not liking Government work, which is usually performed +by Moors and Arabs for the Turks at a price less +than nothing. Some of the Kaed's officers went in pursuit +of him. Evening, called on the Kaed, and found +his flaming concubine extended at her full length upon +his elevated seat of authority. His Excellency himself, +meanwhile, had stepped out of the Castle to look after +the camels. The Bashaw of Mourzuk has sent him a +wigging letter for the delay in sending up the convoy +of provisions. Picked up several old charms in my<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-418" id="V2-418"></a>[<a href="images/2-418.png">418</a>]</span> +room to-day. They had been placed over the threshold +of the door to keep out the Evil One. Sometimes they +are tied round the necks of camels, and even placed on +trees, especially at the time when bearing fruit, for +the purpose of preserving the camel from mange, or +the tree from blight. These talismans usually have a +diagram of this and other shapes, with certain Arabic +signs, letters, words, and sentences, written within and +without.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill2-12.jpg"><img src="images/ill2-12_th.jpg" alt="Detail of Talisman" title="Detail of Talisman" /></a></p> + +<p>It will be seen that some of the signs are Greek +letters. I brought with me three of these charms from +The Desert; one to obtain me a good reception from the +English Sultan on my return; another to conduct me +safely to Timbuctoo, should I be disposed to attempt the +journey; and the third to procure for me a pretty wife. +My charms have not yet compassed these various interesting +objects, but they infallibly will do so. The taleb +who wrote them gets his living by writing charms, and is +very successful in his craft. His paper squibs rarely +miss fire, and when they do it is not the fault of the +charms but that of the person who wears them. It is<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-419" id="V2-419"></a>[<a href="images/2-419.png">419</a>]</span> +necessary to kiss them frequently and fervently, and +repeat over them the name of God<a name="FNa_2-53" id="FNa_2-53"></a><a href="#FoN_2-53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a>.</p> + +<p><i>26th.</i>—We were to have started to-day, but, as usual, +delay. Time is not the estate of these people; rather it +is their lavish, valueless waste. Called early on his +Excellency. Coffee without sugar. His Excellency very +merry, because he had sent off the oil, grease, and rice +caravan. What a pother it was—it was like the starting +of an expedition to conquer all Central Africa! His +Excellency's concubine still occupies the seat of honour, +where she frequently goes to sleep. The courtiers of his<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-420" id="V2-420"></a>[<a href="images/2-420.png">420</a>]</span> +Excellency wink at this little peccadillo. Essnousee +remarked to me it was all right; "The Mudeer must +have some sort of a wife." Had some conversation with +an intelligent Moor on the trade of Sockna. It appears +the merchants are in the same predicament as +those of Ghadames. They are all without capital, and +are virtually commission-agents of the Jewish and Christian +merchants in Tripoli. They receive their goods on +giving bills for six, nine, and twelve months. These +goods they carry to Mourzuk and Ghat, exchanging them +for slaves and other produce of the interior. Afterwards +they return to Tripoli, sell their slaves and goods, +pay off their old debts, and contract new engagements. +Meanwhile they have scarcely a para to call their own. +Therefore European merchants, aided by native Jews, are +the <i>bonâ fide</i> supporters of the traffic of slaves in +Sahara.</p> + +<p>Visited my dearest lady-saint, or Maraboutess, this +evening.</p> + +<p><i>The Saint.</i>—"In a short time I am going to <i>Beit +Allah</i> ('house of God,' or Mecca)."</p> + +<p>"Indeed!" I replied.</p> + +<p>"Yes, there I shall repose under the shadow of the +Holy Place, resting my poor broken limbs and spending +my days in fervent prayer, preparing myself for heaven:" +continued the pious lady.</p> + +<p><i>The Traveller.</i>—"What shall you do in Paradise?"</p> + +<p><i>The Lady.</i>—"I shall eat and drink well, and be dressed +in silk."</p> + +<p><i>The Traveller.</i>—"Shall you have a husband?"</p> + +<p><i>The Lady.</i>—"Yes."</p> + +<p><i>The Traveller.</i>—"Shall you bear children!"<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-421" id="V2-421"></a>[<a href="images/2-421.png">421</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>The Lady.</i>—"No."</p> + +<p><i>The Traveller.</i>—"Where is Paradise?"</p> + +<p><i>The Lady.</i>—"God knows, you don't know<a name="FNa_2-54" id="FNa_2-54"></a><a href="#FoN_2-54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a>."</p> + +<p>This good amiable lady is somewhat <i>spirituelle</i> for a +Mooress, and makes lively and apposite remarks on +other things, as well as religion. The Maraboutess may +be twenty-five or thirty years of age, not good-looking, +neither disagreeable. A dark complexion, a prominent +aquiline nose, a fine gazelle-like eye, and hard-looking +features are overshadowed with a <i>triste</i> and melancholy +expression, from the circumstance of her being +continually an invalid. I saw the poor thing was so weak +that she could not stand upright. The saint said, with +a heavy sigh, as she attempted to move about, "If I +were to go to Tripoli, would you give me a ride on your +camel?" I answered, "Every morning a couple of +hours," during which time I always walk. She then +complained of her poverty. She did not know how she +should get money enough to go on her pilgrimage to +Mecca. If God had given her the strength of others, +she would have walked bare-foot over The Desert. I +consoled her by saying, that, being a saint, all the pious +Moslems would relieve her. She would get a ride from +one and another, and God would soon help her over the +dreary Desert. The Maraboutess was busy embroidering +in coloured worsted, chiefly the bodies of frocks, +which are worn by brides on their marriage-days, as +well as by lady Mooresses on other festivals. In ten +days she earns two shillings, the price of one embroidered +frock. She has always more than she can do, for<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-422" id="V2-422"></a>[<a href="images/2-422.png">422</a>]</span> +the women of Sockna consider garments made by her, +"holy robes," and keep them all their life-time. For the +rest, she, poor thing, lives on alms. She asked, of course, +many questions about women in Christian lands, and was +very much surprised to hear that the supreme ruler of +England was a woman. The Maraboutess observed, however, +in her character as such, "What a pity she (the +Queen of England) was not the daughter of Mahomet, like +Fatima!" The saintess then asked if Her Majesty had +any children, and was glad to hear she had so many. +Three or four children is a good number for women in +these oases. She was puzzled to know why I was not +married. I told her I could not carry about a wife in +Sahara. Another woman, listening, observed, "Why, +you foolish one, leave her at home till you return." +These ladies then spoke of religious rites, and asked me +if a Christian, when he was buried, was placed on his knees. +This notion they have got from our habits of prayer. +Moslems never kneel, properly speaking, at prayer. Their +attitudes at prayer are in style and essence, prostration. +The ladies, growing bolder, began to speak of the "Bad +Place," the <i>ultima thule</i> of Moorish discussion with +Christians, imitating the fire of perdition with their +hands and mouth, wafting the air with those, and blowing +and puffing with this, and then asked me how I +should like "The Fire" (‮النار‬). But I returned, "Christians +say all Mohammedans will go into that fire." This +greatly shocked them, and they asked if I thought so +likewise. I replied, "All who fear God, and are good +to their neighbour, may expect to see Paradise, if there +be one." "Ah, that's good!" these proselyting ladies exclaimed. +The Maraboutess was, however, more thought<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-423" id="V2-423"></a>[<a href="images/2-423.png">423</a>]</span>ful. +"Do you doubt there is a Paradise?" she asked, +looking me full in the face.</p> + +<p><i>I.</i>—"There must be such a place, at least let us hope +so; for this is a bad world, and everybody in it is +miserable—Sultans and Dervishes."</p> + +<p>"God is great!" exclaimed the Maraboutah. She +then begged for medicine to cure her, for although she +had stigmata like St. Francis, she would rather be cured +of them. I recommended her the baths in Tripoli, and +to put herself under the treatment of the English +doctor. "Oh," she added, "send me some medicine, +and I'll give you some milk." Then the poor thing, +groaning with an attack of pain, continued, "Do, make +haste." I could do nothing for the poor sufferer. On +returning to my house, I sent her some cream-of-tartar, +and received from her some milk immediately, showing +her high sense of gratitude.</p> + +<p><i>27th.</i>—Visited the little dirty Kaed. He gave me +dates' syrup to drink. It was more delicious than honey +This syrup is made by pouring fresh water on fresh +dates, and covering up the bowl in which they are +placed, allowing it to stand a night. Only one of the +species of the Sockna dates, but that of the most exquisite +quality, will produce this Saharan ambrosia.</p> + +<p>Generally, if dates are steeped in water, they will not +produce syrup, and only get a little soft. People never +wash dates. They say it deprives them of their fine +fresh and peculiar date-flavour. When the Mudeer +handed me the bowl to drink the syrup, he observed to +the Moors and his precious doxy, sitting wantonly by his +side, "The Christians are fine people. If in Sockna +you give them a cup of coffee, or a few dates, and see<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-424" id="V2-424"></a>[<a href="images/2-424.png">424</a>]</span> +them afterwards in Tripoli they will make you many +compliments, and be very kind to you." This remark +was made spontaneously, having no selfish end. The old +Turk was too much of a gentleman in his way to allow +such a sordid calculation to enter his mind at the time. +I may mention here, a woman observed when I visited +the Maraboutess, (addressing me), "You must send the +medicine, for a Christian <i>mou yakidtheb</i> (never lies)." +It is a pity that these people, who have discernment +enough to see at times the moral superiority of Christians, +should not look a little below the surface and inquire +into its cause. Not, however, that all Europeans, (or +myself,) deserve these high compliments of gratitude +and love of truth, although, compared to Moors and +Arabs, we are certainly far their superiors in morals. +The little dirty Turk had as usual his fair concubine +installed on the seat of honour. Sockna people say, +"She has no husband," and others, "She is the Kaed's +wife," to make the best of a bad appearance.</p> + +<p><i>28th.</i>—Shut up writing during the morning, but in the +evening paid a visit to the little nasty dirty Turk, and +found the little nasty dirty fellow very civil. His Excellency +complained of being very sick. I returned +immediately to fetch him some medicine. Afterwards +we mounted together to the top of the Castle. From +this eminence, we had a splendid view of the environs, +and the various little oases of Sockna and its neighbouring +desert. The distant mountains form an unbroken +circular line on the pale margin of the sky, except on +the east, where it is indented a little, but of several +heights and colours, giving a fine and more varied effect +to The Desert scene. Within this circle, at the base of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-425" id="V2-425"></a>[<a href="images/2-425.png">425</a>]</span> +the various groups, are black-green palms, scattered in +little forests, casting shades on the now white, now light +red, and now purple mountain sides, as if to set off the +perspective of The Desert picture. Here and there are +garden-huts or lodges in the wilderness, so many black +spots within little squares of pale-green patches of corn +cultivation. There is a string of moving dots. What is +that? A caravan winding along its weary way. Not a +bird is seen to wing the ambient air. The atmosphere +generally is a pale unpolished yellow, inclining in some +cloudy flakes to red. The Saharan sun now fast +descends, with a feeble heat and exhausted lustre, +showing the near approach of the dull and drowsy step +of shadowy night. There is something about Saharan +views which is peculiar to them and to Africa; every +object is so smoothed down and smoothed over, that the +scenery of Desert looks at a distance more like paint +and picture-work, than the stern realities of the Wasteful +Sahara. And yet these smoothed-down picture-objects +are so well defined and sharply prominent—all +the lines traced in the most absolute manner—no blending +of shapes or even colours. Mist and misty objects +are not frequent in the African Desert.</p> + +<p>The Castle of Sockna would be considered by us a +ruined building, and condemned as unsafe to be inhabited, +but here it is always "The Castle." It does not +contain a single good room; all is tumbling to pieces, +and if you don't take care, you will fall through some of +the floors, gaping open with large holes at your feet to +let you in. Only one miserable piece of cannon was +mounted, and two other pieces of ordnance were lying +"below stairs," corroding most delightfully in rust. But<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-426" id="V2-426"></a>[<a href="images/2-426.png">426</a>]</span> +the Turks never pretend that this place can make any +serious defence against an enemy. Were indeed a good +piece of ordnance fired from the top of The Castle, the +concussion would knock down all the part of the building +where it was placed. As it is, a portion of the outer +walls has fallen down, and the rubbish is scattered up to +the doors of the neighbouring shops. No effort is made +to clear away this rubbish. "Why should it not remain +where God has allowed it to fall?" says the fate-believing +Moslemite. The owners of the shops creep to their +magazines of merchandize as they best may. I remarked +to the little dirty Turk, who sat with a dreamy stare +looking over The Desert, smoking very unpolitely with +his back to the sun, "This country without question +was formerly in a much better state, and The Castle in +good repair." His Excellency shook his head negatively. +The Turks detest this country, hating its inhabitants +with the most cordial hatred. Yet the lust of rule, (the +object of a fatal ambition in all Moslemite countries,) +and the right and power of bastinading a man when +they please, reconciles them to The Desert, and to its +weary, dreary, blank mode of existence. For what toys +do men sacrifice the best days of their life, and the most +noble faculties of their being!</p> + +<p>Glad to get away from the dirty old Turk. Called +later to see my dearest Maraboutess, with whom I was +almost inclined to fall in love. It is a positive relief to +find something, and somebody amiable in this Desert +of human affections. The saint had many visitors, and +is evidently held in high respect by the inhabitants. +Her female associates sitting by her, asked me, what has +been so often asked before, if the Christian women<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-427" id="V2-427"></a>[<a href="images/2-427.png">427</a>]</span> +brought three or four children at a birth. From some +cause or other, polygamy, obesity in the women, or the +abuse of the marriage-bed, Saharan females have very +few children. There were five elderly men in our caravan; +all were married, of course, for every man marries +amongst Mahometans. These old gentlemen had not +more than two children each, and one of them none. I +set the Sockna ladies right, telling them, some of our +women had twins, and now and then three, but that one +was the rule. Every thing about us Christians is exaggerated. +The people of these towns think us a distinct +race from themselves. Such is the effect of religion +when misapplied; it estranges men from one another +instead of drawing them together with the cords of +brotherly affection. An Arab present with us, changing +the subject, asked why I did not go to Bornou, for all +the Oulad Suleiman (Arabs of the Syrtis) up at Bornou +were friends of the English, and one and the same with +them? He continued, "But let them come here to cut +down again our palms, and we will not leave one of them +alive." I gave the poor Maraboutess a few paras, received +her blessing, and bade her an affectionate adieu. +Happy would be many, if with such bodily afflictions +they could amuse themselves with such blissful visions!</p> + +<p>His Excellency presented me with half a pound of +coffee, and told me to beware of the Sockna people, who +would rob me of it if they could.</p> + +<p><i>29th.</i>—Called early to visit the "Grand Turk" of the +Castle, and administered to his Excellency a full dose of +genuine Epsom. In turn, he gave me a basin of coffee +with milk,—quite a novelty in The Desert,—which I +thought a splendid exchange. I had a good deal to do<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-428" id="V2-428"></a>[<a href="images/2-428.png">428</a>]</span> +to get him to swallow the Epsom. On calling to see him +in the afternoon, I found his Excellency racing about like +a real jockey of Epsom, running out at times very abruptly, +to the great amusement of his Sultana, who +admired the effects of the Epsom. Called again in the +evening to see my patient, and found his Excellency suffering +from what he called dysentery, and administered a +couple of small opium pills. The Turk observed, with +something of a grin, that Christian doctors knew more of +the inside than the outside of a man.</p> + +<p><i>30th.</i>—Another Turk arrived this morning with another +convoy of provisions from Tripoli. He is twenty +days from that city. He complains of the camels. Certainly +I never saw worse camels than these of the Tripoline +Arabs. The Turk brings good news. Rain has +fallen copiously in The Mountains. It is the "<i>latter</i> rain" +in the Scriptural phrase, <ins class="grk" title="Greek: hueton opsimon">ὑετον οψιμον</ins>. The "<i>early</i> +rain," <ins class="grk" title="Greek: hueton prôimon">ὑετον πρωϊμον</ins>, falls in North Africa about September +and October. The "<i>latter</i> rain" continues to +April, and sometimes falls in May. In December and +January there is often dry weather, and the finest season +in the year for Europeans. Want of rain in Fezzan and +Sockna is compensated for by the abundance of springs. +These rains in The Mountains will establish the rule of +the Turks. It is only a question of provisions. The +want of rain for several years has brought Tripoli to the +verge of ruin, and the Sultan is tired of supporting this +Regency. If a few good harvests come, Tripoli will support +itself. Wrote to Mr. Gagliuffi by this caravan, to +tell him where I was on the 30th of March! He expects +me by this time to be at Tripoli. We are to leave this +evening.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-429" id="V2-429"></a>[<a href="images/2-429.png">429</a>]</span></p> + +<p>Amused myself again by noticing several parallel ideas +between The East and Africa, as found in our Scriptures.</p> + +<p>In these countries there is always some one great river; +for this reason, Moors will always have the Nile and the +Niger to be "one great river." Mr. Cooley, in his "Negroland +of the Arabs," proposes, for the various names +given by ancient and modern geographers to the Niger, +the simple epithet of "The Great River." In The East, +we have, <ins class="grk" title="Greek: ton potamon ton megan ton Euphratên">τὸν ποταμὸν τὸν μεγαν τὸν Εὐφράτην</ins> (Rev. xvi. +12), "The Great River Euphrates." It is not to be supposed +the prophets and evangelists were instructed in +geography beyond their age. The vial of wrath is not +poured upon Ganges, or Mississippi, or Amazon, but on +Euphrates, the great river of that age and time, although +not of our age and times.</p> + +<p><ins class="grk" title="Greek: Kalamon chrysoun">Καλαμον χρυσοῦν</ins> (Rev. xxi. 15), "a golden reed." +The term <ins class="grk" title="Greek: kalamon">καλαμον</ins>, the root of which are the three consonants +<ins class="grk" title="Greek: klm">κλμ</ins>, is the same as ‮قلم‬, "a reed" first, and afterwards, +"a pen made of a reed." It is difficult sometimes +to get reeds in The Desert, and they are carried about from +oasis to oasis. On the salt plains of Emjessem, near +Ghadames, there is a fine lagoon of reeds, of which pens +are made. It is probable the angel <i>wrote</i> the measurement +of the "Holy Jerusalem" with a reed pen, and not +<i>measured</i> it with a reed, as represented in our version.</p> + +<p><ins class="grk" title="Greek: Kai hê gynê ephygen eis tên erêmon">Και ἡ γυνη εφυγεν εις την ερημον</ins> (Rev. xii. 6), "and +the woman fled to the Wilderness." The Wilderness, or +Desert, in ancient times, as now, in this part of the +world, was always a place of refuge; but, as the world +becomes civilized, the Wilderness will offer no resource +to the fugitive, and the back-woods of the new colonies +will no longer shelter the runaway, or outlaw of society,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-430" id="V2-430"></a>[<a href="images/2-430.png">430</a>]</span> +or the innocent patriot fleeing from the pursuit of his +country's tyrants. Gibbon gives an affecting description +of the fugitive Roman, who found Rome's omnipresent +tyrant in every clime whither he fled, on every soil paced +by his trembling foot. Before this time arrives, let us +hope liberty will have settled down, with its outspread +eagle wings sheltering every country of the habitable +globe.</p> + +<p><ins class="grk" title="Greek: Ean ho Kyrios thelêsê, kai zêsômen, kai poiêsômen touto hê ekeino.">Εὰν ὁ Κύριος θελήσῃ, καὶ ζήσωμεν, καὶ ποιήσωμεν τοῦτο ἢ εκεῖνο.</ins> +(James iv. 15.) Mahomet and his disciples +have made enough of this divine injunction, which, +indeed, ought to be more practised by Christians. By the +Moslems, however, it is carried to a superstitious excess, +and the <i>En shallah</i>—‮ان شاء الله‬—"<i>Deo Volente</i>," is +continually in their mouths. They cannot even say, +"Yes," to anything, although <i>la, la</i>, "no, no," is heard +frequently enough. The <i>aywah</i>, ‮ايوه‬, "yes," means rather +"well done," than "yes." But it is a pity they +have not adopted, with the same superstitious strictness, +the <ins class="grk" title="Greek: omnuete">ομνὑετε</ins>, "swear not," of the same writer; for no +people in the world swear so much, and by such sacred +names, as the Arabs and Moors.</p> + +<p><ins class="grk" title="Greek: Phobos ouk estin en tê agapê, all' hê teleia, agapê exô ballei ton phobon, hoti ho phobos kolasin echei.">Φόβος ὀυκ ἔστιν ἐν τῇ ἀγάπῃ, ἀλλ' ἡ τελεία ἀγάπη ἔξω βάλλει τὸν φόβον, ὅτι ὁ φόβος κόλασιν ἔχει.</ins> (1 John +iv. 18.) "There is no fear in love, but perfect love casteth +out fear; because fear hath torment." I have never yet +heard the Arabs or Moors speak of "<i>loving</i> God." They +say either, "He <i>knows</i> God," or, "He <i>fears</i> God." Nevertheless, +such phrases agree with our expression of religious +sentiment. Besides knowing and fearing God, our religion +requires that we <i>love</i> God. This the Saharan Mussul<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-431" id="V2-431"></a>[<a href="images/2-431.png">431</a>]</span>man +does not well understand. All his religious system +is: "To know that there is a God, to be feared and +dreaded as an earthly Prince or Sultan, who at times +rules them with a rod of iron." So all their actions, +motives, impulses, whether religions or secular, spring +the rather from fear than love. And so it is, that whenever +they speak to a Christian about religion, their first +and last argument is, "The torments of the Lost," as I +have already so often mentioned; and the fear of the fire +of perdition, it may be added, is their continual "torment." +The Koran helps them out, in their dread of +corporal torments. I need not refer to the celebrated +passage, which represents the wicked in the regions of +the lost as "gnawing their fingers and knuckles in the +rage and agonies of their pain." But in Rev. xvi. 10, +we also have—<ins class="grk" title="Greek: emassônto tas glôssas hautôn ek tou ponou">εμασσωντο τας γλωσσας αὑτων εκ του πονου</ins> +"they gnawed their tongues for pain." In both cases +the picture is too terrible to be calmly contemplated. It +is a true observation of philosophy, that the pictures of +the future state of man, as delineated in the sacred books +of different religions, are, the greater part of them of +a painful and horrible character. But the Koran surpasses +all these books, in wire-drawn and elaborately wrought +descriptions, the most mournful, the most disgusting, +the most terrible, of the torments of the damned. +Is it because, men generally can only be moved by +fear, and not by love, to the practice of virtue and religious +observances? But in Sahara the principle of fear +is carried into the minutest relations of social life. The +child fears and venerates, not loves, his father; he approaches +his parent with awe, not with the confidence of +love. The wife always fears, rarely loves, her husband.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-432" id="V2-432"></a>[<a href="images/2-432.png">432</a>]</span> +Connubial pleasures are not the embraces of love and +confidence, but of lust and rule; and the woman slavishly +submits to the caprices of the man, as bound by an +absolute and resistless contract, and not from affection +or any inclination. So it was in earliest times,—the +weaker went to the wall, and the stronger was the master; +might was right. Peter ungallantly reminds the women +of his age of <ins class="grk" title="Greek: kyrion auton kalousa">κύριον αὐτον καλοῦσα</ins>, "(the wife), calling +him (the husband) lord," as the practice of the women of +a still remoter age. Nothing flatters an African husband +so much as to hear his wife call him "lord," and "master." +But it was not the intention of the first propagators +of our religion to disturb the social customs and +(Oriental habits of) society. Besides, the apostles, being +Jews and Asiatics, would naturally introduce into their +new doctrine the old despotic notions of the East regarding +women. When Christianity spread west and north, +these notions of despotism over women were resisted in +Greece<a name="FNa_2-55" id="FNa_2-55"></a><a href="#FoN_2-55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> and Rome, and by the Germanic tribes, amongst +whom especially women were treated as dignified and +responsible agents, enjoying equal rights with men. Nevertheless, +the condition of women has improved everywhere +with the spread of the pure morality of Christianity.</p> + +<p>Near Sockna, or one and a half hour east, is Houn; +and two hours north-east, is Wadan. The water of these +two towns is brackish.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-52" id="FoN_2-52"></a><a href="#FNa_2-52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> This is probably an allusion to the following observations of +Captain Lyon, in justification of his assuming the Mahometan +religion:—"It may be necessary before I take leave of Mourzuk, +and indeed of Tripoli, to explain that our adoption of the Moorish +costume was by no means a sufficient safeguard in either of those +places, or in traversing the interior of Africa; for, though it might, +to a casual observer, blind suspicion, yet when we had occasion to +remain for a time at any place, or to perform journeys in company +with strangers, we found that it was absolutely requisite to conform +to all the duties of the Mohammedan religion, as well as to assume +their dress. To this precaution I attribute our having met with so +little hindrance in our proceedings; for had we openly professed +ourselves Christians, we might, in Fezzan, have experienced many +serious interruptions; whilst farther in the interior, even our lives +would have been in continual jeopardy. The circumstance of our +having come from a Christian country, which we always acknowledged, +frequently rendered us liable to suspicion; but by attending +constantly at the established prayers, and occasionally acknowledging +the divine mission of Mahomet; or, more properly, by +repeating, 'There is no God but God, Mahomet is his Prophet,' we +were enabled to overcome all doubts respecting our faith." It must +be added, in justice to Messrs. Ritchie and Lyon, that since 1821 a +vast change has been wrought in the minds of the Moors of North +Africa, and especially with regard to Englishmen. When even +Denham and Clapperton visited Mourzuk, they were not allowed to +reside in the town, but kept in the castle, under the special protection +of the Bashaw, lest anything should befall them from the prejudices +of the people.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-53" id="FoN_2-53"></a><a href="#FNa_2-53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> As a suitable accompaniment of Mussulman charms, I add in +a note, the following specimen of a Christian charm, which I found +in the letter of the <i>Times'</i> Swiss correspondent.—(See <i>Times</i>, 10th +Dec., 1847):— +</p><p> +"More—I have seen some curious little brass amulets, with the +effigy of the Virgin on one side and the Cross on the other, which +were sold in great numbers to the people as charms against all possible +injuries in battle. Those sold at seven and ten batzen (about +10<i>d.</i> and 15<i>d.</i> of our money) were efficacious against musket and +carbine balls; those at twenty batzen (about half-a-crown) were +proof against cannon shot also! The purchasers of these medals +were also presented with a card, of which the following is a <i>verbatim</i> +transcript, capitals, italics, and all:— +</p> +<p class="figcenter">'O MARIE</p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">concue sans peche,</span></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">priez pour nous qui avons recours a vous!</span></p> +<p> +'<i>Quiconque</i>, portant une médaille miraculeuse, recite avec piété +cette invocation, se trouve placé sous la protection spéciale de la +Mère de Dieu; c'est une promesse de Marie Elle Même.' +</p><p> +Which, being interpreted—if indeed I may be excused for profaning +the honest English tongue with such blasphemy—is, +</p><p> +'Oh Mary!—conceived without sin—pray for us who have recourse +to you. <i>Any one</i> carrying a miraculous medal, who recites +with piety the above invocation, becomes placed under the especial +protection of the Mother of God. This is a promise made by Mary +herself.'"</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-54" id="FoN_2-54"></a><a href="#FNa_2-54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> This is the tiresome, frequently-recurring phrase of the Koran.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-55" id="FoN_2-55"></a><a href="#FNa_2-55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> So we find Paul declaiming that he will not suffer a woman to +speak in the churches. It was the Greek women who wished to +assert the dignity of woman by teaching in the assemblies of the +saints.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-433" id="V2-433"></a>[<a href="images/2-433.png">433</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXX" id="CHAPTER_XXX"></a>CHAPTER XXX.</h2> + +<h3>FROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Well of Hammam.—Innocent game of the Negresses.—Baiting at +noon.—Bird's-nests and Birds in Sahara.—Ghiblee or the +<i>Simoum</i>; its terrible effects on our Caravan.—Delusions of +Desert, and bewilderment of our People.—Disastrous Fate of +the Young Tuscan.—Snakes.—Small capital of some +Slave-Merchants.—Arrival at Bonjem.—Visit the Roman Ruins of +Septimius Severus.—The newly created Oasis.—Regulations to +mitigate Saharan Slave-traffic.—My Imbroglio with +Essnousee.—Imbroglio of an Arab with the Kaed of Bonjem.—Description +of the Fort of Bonjem.—The Disease of the <i>Filaria Medinensis</i>, +and its Cure.—My Journal confused and fragmentary.—Route +from Bonjem to Misratah.—Enter the regions of Rain and +Open Culture.—<i>Bughalah</i>, or the Rock, where Abd-El-Geleel +was assassinated.—Wells of Daymoum and Namwah.—Sudden +changes of Temperature in North Africa.—Well of Saneeah +Abd-El-Kader.—Stream of Touwarkah.—Ecstatic joy on arriving +near the Sea.—How diminutive all things are become in +comparison with the Vast Sahara.—Arrival at Misratah.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="smcap">In</span> the afternoon, about three, we left Sockna <i>en route</i> +for Tripoli; we arrived at Hammam in a couple of hours. +On the road, we met not less than three hundred camels +laden with provisions and ammunition for the troops at +Mourzuk, shewing evidently the dread which the Turks +have of the Arabs under the son of Abd-El-Geleel, +and any sudden attack by them on Fezzan. This is a +bad speculation for the Turks. Fezzan can never pay at +such a rate.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-434" id="V2-434"></a>[<a href="images/2-434.png">434</a>]</span></p> + +<p>Hammam, is a collection of small sand-hills grouped +together, around and upon which are palms. There is +also a well of tolerably good water. The name Hammam +("hot-spring"), is derived from the circumstance of +there being here a hot-spring; but now said to be +covered up by the sand-hills. This is what the people +have received by tradition. Very hot this evening; the +sun burnt us most extraordinarily. We felt it more after +having been shut up some days in Sockna; we took in a +supply of water at Hammam in preference to the waters of +Sockna. This evening, the Negresses played their usual +sweet innocent little game. They form an alley by +taking hands, blocked up at the end. At the top enters +one of their number backwards. As she passes along the +opposite pairs, each couple put their hands across and +form a sort of seat for her, by which she is bumped +backwards from one seat to another seat of hands, +through the whole alley. When arriving at the end, +she falls into the chain of hands. Another now enters, +being bumped backwards on her broad bustle like her +predecessor, and caught by the hands stretched across +the alley. I don't know whether this is intelligible, but +the game is very simple and full of mirth. The point of tact +is, their always sitting down on the hands, and not falling +back on the ground, when, like every body who attempts +to sit down on a chair and suddenly finds himself on the +floor, they would look very foolish. But as the Devil +leaped over the fold of Paradise, so he may be expected +to creep in everywhere, and the Negro lads are always +peeping about, at a respectful distance, to see what they +can see, when these falls take place; and I imagine the +zest of the thing, both amongst the lads and the lasses,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-435" id="V2-435"></a>[<a href="images/2-435.png">435</a>]</span> +turns upon this naughty circumstance. So much for poor +innocence, and innocent games.</p> + +<p><i>31st.</i>—Started, as the sun shewed his broad face above +the horizon. Route till the afternoon, over a sandy, +gravelly plain; then entered some hilly country, where +we came to the well of Temet-Tar. Excessively hot +again to-day, apparently the precursor of the Simoum +the following day. In this Fezzanee caravan, it is our +practice to halt at noon, or thereabouts, to take a little +refreshment. I am informed all the caravans of this +route do so. The Ghadamsee caravans, on the route of +Ghat, never halt in the day-time, continuing from morning +to night. Our people carry a few dates in a bag, or on the +camel's back, all ready for the luncheon. These they +throw down upon a portion of a barracan spread on the +sands. Sometimes a piece of bread is broken over the +dates. They then squat round this repast in groups. +The slaves save from their previous day's supper, or from +the morning, a few dates for this time of the day, and +are allowed each a drink of water. Noticed a bird's nest +on a furze of The Desert. This is only the second +I have ever seen in Sahara. A few small birds are +now hopping about on the line of route. But I have +observed the colour of the birds to vary with the region +through which we pass. Now they are yellow, now +black, now black and white, and all as small as linnets. +These birds have no song, only chirping and twittering +about. A few larks I have seen where water and palms +and other trees abound. We encamped about 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> +The water of the well is by no means sweet, but not +being brackish, it quenches thirst sufficiently.</p> + +<p><i>1st April.</i>—Rose early and started early. A terrible<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-436" id="V2-436"></a>[<a href="images/2-436.png">436</a>]</span> +day! A <i>ghiblee</i> in all its force<a name="FNa_2-56" id="FNa_2-56"></a><a href="#FoN_2-56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a>. The wind is directly +from south (‮قبلي‬ "south"). It is quite dry, unlike the +<i>sirocco</i> which blows at Malta. Sirocco is damp and +most enervating, and south-east in its direction. Probably, +however, it is the same wind, but sweeping over +the sea it attracts moisture, and changes to south-east. +I was praying for, and prophesying all the morning, up +to 9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, a cool day. The reverse has happened, as so +often happens in answer to our most ardent wishes. +I never was so astonished as when I saw the negroes on +this day. Mr. Gagliuffi had said to me, "If you have<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-437" id="V2-437"></a>[<a href="images/2-437.png">437</a>]</span> +ghiblee, the slaves can't go." But I could hardly believe +a hot wind to be so injurious to these children of the +sun. They seemed as if they could bear any cold better +than a hot south wind. They got behind the camels or +stooped under their bellies; they held up their barracans, +taking it by turns to hold them up, by which means they +sheltered five or six together; they concealed their faces +and their bodies with their tattered garments; they +invented all sorts of expedients to shelter themselves a +moment against The Desert simoum. I could not help +observing how superior the white man was to the black +man in his physical make. Our Arabs and Moors kept +up erect, facing this furnace blast, and bore the heat<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-438" id="V2-438"></a>[<a href="images/2-438.png">438</a>]</span> +and burthen of the day a thousand times better than the +Negroes—these children begotten by the sun from the +slime of the Niger, on whose swampy plains heat reigns +eternally with all its fiery fervour! I had always thought +the Negro, being naturally a chilly creature, could not be +affected with a hot wind. We all drank plentifully today, +ten times as much as on other days. But this being +a ghiblee day, it was necessary to drive on the slaves +quick, and with violence, the camels not carrying a sufficiency +of water for a couple of days of this sort. +Essnousee now showed how eminently qualified he was +for this infernal traffic. He did drive them on most +furiously, while as to one wretched Negress, I thought he +would have left her dead on the spot, flaying her most +unmercifully. The miscreant Essnousee was only prevented +from the perpetration of this horrid crime by the +main-force interference of Mohammed Azou, another +slave-dealer travelling with us, with seven slaves, and +who, I must record, was a humane man, though a dealer +in the flesh and blood of his fellow creatures. I have +not observed him even once beating his slaves, which is +saying a great deal. The conduct of this humane Moor +proved that it was not absolutely necessary to beat +slaves when driving them over Desert. The Touaricks +of Aheer, indeed, know this, and never lay a finger on +their poor captives. We, at length, got through this +day of horrible heat and thirst, for God gives an end to +all things. Never will be effaced from the tablet of my +memory the prayer of a poor Negress girl, who, in the +height of the simoum came running up to me, her eyes +bloodshot, her face streaming with tears, "Buy me,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-439" id="V2-439"></a>[<a href="images/2-439.png">439</a>]</span> +Yâkob, O, buy me! I am very good, I will be good wife +to you, and sleep with you. O, I'm dying! take me, buy +me, buy me, Yâkob. The wind kills me."</p> + +<p>We encamped on a vast plain, having ranges of low +mountains on our right and left. The carcases of two +camels were left on the road, which had broken down +from the large caravan we had passed; and, a thing +unusual, the Arabs had left part of the flesh on the +bones; some of our slaves immediately devoured it raw. +Hunger's the thing to give you a relish.</p> + +<p><i>2nd.</i>—Rose at Fidger, a little before day-break, or at +the point of day, in fright of another ghiblee. Necessity +has, indeed, in such a case, no law, and no compassion +on the unfortunate. But, to-day, God sent the poor +slaves a little fresh north wind, for "God tempers the +wind to the shorn lamb." The north wind increased towards +the evening, we journeying on very well. Course, +north and north-west, over the vast expanse mentioned +yesterday. Quantities of bits of marble, pieces of fine +quartz, and shining felspar, are strewn over the plain, +which contrasting with its dark ground-work, look at +times as if we were traversing some enchanted carpet. +But our brains reeled, and we all suffered from thirst. +People seemed all mad to-day. One called to me, +"Yâkob, listen." I listened, but being hard of hearing, +I thought there might be some sounds. Another +camel-driver pretended he heard sweet melodious sounds. +On inquiring what music it was, he replied, "Like the +Turkish band." Then another came running to me, +"Yâkob, see what a beautiful sight." I turned to look, +but my eyes were so weak and strained, that I could see +nothing upon the dreary face of the limitless plain.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-440" id="V2-440"></a>[<a href="images/2-440.png">440</a>]</span> +Essnousee swore to seeing a bright city of the Genii, and +actually counted the number of the palaces and the +palms. I believe our people were delirious from the +effects of yesterday's simoum, for I did not observe mirage. +The beautiful words of Cowper recurred to me when I +had the power of calm reflection, in the evening of the +day:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"So in The Desert's dreary waste,</span> +<span class="i0">By magic power produced in haste,</span> +<span class="i2">(As ancient fables say,)</span> +<span class="i0">Castles, and groves, and music sweet,</span> +<span class="i0">The senses of the traveller meet,</span> +<span class="i2">And stop him in his way.</span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">But while he listens with surprise,</span> +<span class="i0">The charm dissolves, the vision dies,</span> +<span class="i2">'Twas but enchanted ground."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>Not much sand on the plain, but gravel occasionally. +Some sand hills appear in the distance, a line of waving +dazzling white on the horizon. Encamped late in the +evening. The well of Nabah is not in the line of route.</p> + +<p>At the site of this well happened a sad event two +years and a half ago, and which now, suffering as I was +with thirst, came with redoubled force to my mind. Mr. +Gagliuffi, on his appointment to be Consul at Mourzuk, +took with him a young Tuscan as secretary. The +vivacious Italian soon quarrelled with the Consul, and +immediately determined to return to Tripoli, during +the height of summer (August), in spite of the warnings +of everybody. However, with care and due preparation, +this route, and all Saharan routes, can be and +are travelled in every season of the year; as is +sufficiently proved by my own journey to Ghadames.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-441" id="V2-441"></a>[<a href="images/2-441.png">441</a>]</span> +Two days after the Tuscan left Sockna, came on a +terrible ghiblee, but infinitely more intense and stifling +than any south wind could be in this season. The +Tuscan was travelling with a caravan of a few people, +who determined to bring up for the day, about 2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, +although having but a small supply of water. They +were then about seven hours from the well of Nabah. +The distance was tempting to the rash European. With +a little courage and dispatch could not the well be +reached before night? Why not? thought he. The +youth was self-willed and peremptory. He knew better +than the old Arab camel-drivers, traversing this route all +their life-time. The Tuscan had also with him a horse. +But what does he do? Having about a bucket of water +left, he gives it to the horse; and then starts, taking off +with him a young Arab, apparently as foolish as himself. +They proceeded on their last journey, the Tuscan riding +the horse, the poor Arab boy going on foot, as guide to +the well. The caravan weathers out the ghiblee—the +men covering up their faces and mouths from the +scorching blast, afraid to breathe the killing air of the +simoum—the camels moaning in death-like tones, prophetic +of the fate of those who had just gone! But +night comes, and brings some relief to the wasting, if not +dying animals. Then the morning breaks with a +refreshing breeze, and the exhausted caravan has enough +strength left to seek the well. Near the well, not a +quarter of a mile distant, they first find the young +Italian stretched dead, a little farther off the horse, and +a little farther off the Arab. They had perished at the +well's mouth! There cannot be a doubt, these unhappy +youths perished by their own folly. The European had<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-442" id="V2-442"></a>[<a href="images/2-442.png">442</a>]</span> +even water enough to last him a whole day, but gave it +to his horse, and braved wildly the death-gale of The +Desert. The poor Arab, I am told, was forced away +against his will to guide the mad-cap Tuscan to their +fatal end. By such folly, have also perished unnumbered +caravans in the Saharan regions.</p> + +<p>Our people who went to Nabah for water, found the +well too late to return, and came back at day-light in +the morning, about two and a half hours' distance +from the line of route.</p> + +<p><i>3rd.</i>—We held on our course northward, weary and +exhausted, but the wind freshened from north-west, and +we did not suffer from heat. We now entered into +groups of small mountains. At 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, seeing the sandy +hills of Bonjem, our merciful slave-master, Essnousee, +determined we might now encamp, and go fresh and +early next day to the Fortress. Observed two small +snakes to-day in open Desert, the first time I have seen +them in Sahara. So much for the snakes, asps, adders, +basilisks, cockatrices, and fiery flying serpents of The +Desert! We have with us one old gentleman who +joined us at Sockna. He is conveying <i>one</i> slave to +Tripoli. Greatly surprised at this, I asked him how he +could travel these horrid wastes with such a miserable +stake in commerce as a single slave! The Saharan +veteran replied, "You are right. It would be better for +me to remain in Sockna, and spend my days in prayer +and poverty like a dervish. But I have another slave in +Tripoli. This is the whole of my property. I shall +return again, after I have sold them, to Mourzuk, and +buy and sell. Such is the will of God, what can I do?" +And so the traffic in human beings goes on. It is quite<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-443" id="V2-443"></a>[<a href="images/2-443.png">443</a>]</span> +certain, from this case, nothing but main force can put +an end to the slave-trade, for the Moors will carry it on +at all risks, and under any circumstances. How induce +men to give up a traffic, who will travel a month over +Desert with a capital of a couple of slaves!</p> + +<p><i>4th.</i>—Rose early, and was astonished and alarmed to +find my bed-clothes and all my wearing apparel wet with +a thick heavy dew. This I had not experienced through +all my journeyings in Desert, for, as the ancient Arabian +writers have styled this country, it is a "Dry Country," +from Egypt to the Atlantic. But new things always +surprise—often alarm us. We soon got used to dewy +nights and heavy dews. We were now also entering or +near to the regions of rain. I dried my clothes at the +fire, and felt no ill effects from this heavy night dew. +All were travelling without tents, except the female +slaves, who, unless sheltered during the night, would +soon have died from cold. Day-time our female slaves +were poorly clad, having on only a piece of woollen +wrapper, besides a black cotton frock, and some +not even a piece of wrapper to cover their heads +and shoulders. Bonjem people say these dews are +perpetual, covering all the sandy soil of the country +round with fresh green herbage, which our poor +camels now cropped with a voracious delight. In +two hours and a half we entered the new town of Bonjem. +It is the site of the ancient Roman station, or +town, called Septimius Severus. A fort has recently +been built from the ancient ruins, with a few small +miserable houses in the shape of a village. The fort, or +burge, is however strong and commodious, and has +quarters for the accommodation of five hundred troops.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-444" id="V2-444"></a>[<a href="images/2-444.png">444</a>]</span> +The present garrison consists of about thirty raw Arabs, +relieved every two months. They have no pay or +allowance, except their rations. The object of the +Pasha in the erection of this fortress, was to connect +militarily The Mountains with the large and important +oasis of Sockna. A few gardens have been laid out, +several wells dug, and these, with the homely hovels, +the very picture of "the day of small things," are still +infinitely preferable to the naked desolation of Sahara. +On proceeding upwards, water is here taken in for three +or four days. The water is very good, although it has a +fetid odour, rendering it disagreeable when drinking. +Walked about the village. There may be forty or fifty +houses, mere square boxes of mud or plaster, mixed with +old Roman stones, about twelve feet high, and containing +perhaps a hundred inhabitants. Being new, the houses +have a clean appearance. There are two streets, and a +fondouk, or caravanserai. To build such a village and a +fortress, some rather fine Roman ruins received their +final stroke of demolition.</p> + +<p>Afternoon,—went to see the ancient Roman station +of Septimius Severus. It lies east of Bonjem at a +quarter of an hour's walking. Of the fort or castle, +there remains still a sufficient quantity of blocks of stone +to point out the four gates, and some rude pillars seven +or eight feet high, denoting the site of a temple, or other +public building, within the castle. We visited three of +the gates, but found only one inscription, cut on a single +block deeply imbedded in sand, and covered with +other blocks of stone. The letters were Roman, and, +pretty freshly chiselled, but we could not move the other +stones so as to decipher the words in their full length.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-445" id="V2-445"></a>[<a href="images/2-445.png">445</a>]</span> +Some blocks of stone were shaped into arches, others +lay scattered in single blocks, on one of which was this +plain device.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/ill2-13.jpg"><img src="images/ill2-13_th.jpg" alt="Carved Stone, Ancient Roman Station of Septimus Severus" title="Carved Stone, Ancient Roman Station of Septimus Severus" /></a></p> + +<p>This is the sole result of my antiquarian visit. Not +a bit of fine marble or a coin was picked up. The stone +of the ruins was a dark grey granite, almost black, of +very coarse grain. It must have been brought some +distance, for I have seen no stone like it in the neighbourhood. +The walls of the castle were very thick, and +built in the usual Roman style, with cement and small +stones, the mortar being now nearly as hard as the stone +itself. These walls were also faced with the blocks of +stone mentioned. The walls of the city had merely +cement and small stones. These latter are extensive. +The <i>ensemble</i> of the ruins makes one deeply regret to +see The Sahara has gone back ages in the arts and civilization, +for such is evident from these <i>debris</i> of Roman +Saharan culture. This fact, even the Moors themselves +accompanying me, acknowledged by such exclamations +as <i>wasâ</i>, "wide!" and <i>kebir</i>, "great!" But the impression +with them is fleeting, and anything unconnected with +their religion, and the history of the conquests of +Islamism, I have always observed is accounted nothing +by these people. Half a day west of Bonjem, the people +tell me there is a few scattered ruins of another ancient +city. On our way we found two wells, lately dug, and +the Taleb-Kaed says, water is every where found near +the surface, and always good, in spite of the disagreeable<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-446" id="V2-446"></a>[<a href="images/2-446.png">446</a>]</span> +gaseous exhalation when drunk. A few tiny palms are +also planted about these wells, in this Turkish attempt +to upraise Septimius Severus. The little sprigs of palm +pleased all, and were welcomed by us as the germ +of the future oasis, which shall afford shade and fruit +to a large population. There may be a dozen wells +already dug, and every year the infant oasis shows more +signs of life, and a little, little more progressive existence. +The prevailing soil is sandy, but good for grain and +palms.</p> + +<p>This evening had an imbroglio or row with Essnousee, +who attempted to impose upon me by charging for two +or three suppers which he furnished me in the way of +hospitality at his native place of Sockna. I had lent +him all my money to purchase food for his slaves. He +now refused to refund, on this and other pleas.</p> + +<p>During the road from Sockna to Bonjem, I thought +of two or three regulations which might mitigate the +evils of Saharan slave-traffic, as well as limit its operations, +if our Government could prevail upon the Turks +to adopt them. If we can't stop the trade at once, we +may try to lessen its miseries. We English did the +same in the case of our own slave-trade.</p> + +<p>1st. That no Tripoline, or other Ottoman subject, +should purchase a slave out of the provinces of Tripoli.</p> + +<p>2nd. That the slaves <i>en route</i> for Tripoli should be +accompanied by a Government officer, who should watch +over them and see that they are not over-driven or +inhumanly flogged.</p> + +<p>3rd. That for every slave dying <i>en route</i>, or in any of +the towns <i>en route</i>, for the markets of the Coast, whatever +may be the cause, the owner of that slave should be<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-447" id="V2-447"></a>[<a href="images/2-447.png">447</a>]</span> +fined a sum equal to the duty paid for it to Government.</p> + +<p>The first rules would lessen the operations of the traffic, +and prevent slave-merchants from purchasing and speculating +in Soudan, and always put them under the eye +and surveillance of the agents of Government. The +second would in a great measure prevent over-driving +and inhuman flogging, if faithfully followed out. The +third would, at least, always insure the slaves having +food enough to preserve them in good health.</p> + +<p>I think I see the free-trader smile at these restrictions, +and hear him say, "What humbug!" But first, it is +here a question to regulate a nefarious traffic which the +Porte, our ally, is not yet prepared to abolish. Until +the free-trader can prove to me that the traffic in slaves +is a legitimate commerce, I shall advocate the crippling +of it by restrictions, let these restrictive regulations be +ever so puerile. But we have the fact, that since Mr. +Gagliuffi persuaded the Ottoman authorities to lay a tax +of ten dollars per head on each slave, the traffic has +diminished considerably. So at any rate the merchants +themselves tell me. This was the object of the Vice-Consul, +and he accomplished his object. On the other +hand, it could be represented to the Porte, that the first +regulation would bring the commerce of the interior +within their territories, a great advantage for the +Regency of Tripoli.</p> + +<p><i>5th.</i>—Not so much dew as yesterday morning. The +imbroglio with Essnousee continues about refunding the +money I lent him. To-day it assumed a formidable +shape, not only all our caravan was involved in it, but +the whole of the town, and the Kaëd at their head. I<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-448" id="V2-448"></a>[<a href="images/2-448.png">448</a>]</span> +agreed to give the slave-merchant a fair price for his +suppers, but for the rest, insisted on being paid back the +money which I lent him, and which he promised to refund +at Sockna. On arriving at Sockna, Essnousee found +money scarce, and thought he would bamboozle me out +of my money. The Taleb-Kaëd saw the justice of the +plea, as did all the people, and the merchant was ordered +to give me the balance of the few dollars. The money +was requisite to purchase a little milk, or butter, or fresh +provisions. My vanity, however, came in the way of my +stomach. So when I got the dollars, to show I did not +carry on this imbroglio for selfish purposes, but solely +for the sake of common justice between man and man, I +ordered, with great pomposity and an air of immense +benevolence, the money to be distributed to the poor of +the town. This ostentation greatly pleased all the Moors +and Arabs, save and except the crest-fallen chagrined +Essnousee; it only increased the bitter misery of his +defeat. I was wicked enough to be glad to humiliate +the unfeeling slave-dealer in this way, for he had no +money and was obliged to borrow to pay, which sadly +lessened his consequence.</p> + +<p>Afterwards went to see the Moorish Secretary Kaëd, +installed in the Castle. This functionary is placed here +principally for the dispatch of the mails backwards and +forwards. The secretary does not interfere with the +Sheikh who commands the garrison, and only attends to +couriers and the little affairs of the village. For this +work he has the large salary of three dollars per month. +It seemed as if imbrogliamento was the order of the day, +for here I witnessed a row as violent as my own. An +old Arab, very crusty and obstinate, had arrived from<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-449" id="V2-449"></a>[<a href="images/2-449.png">449</a>]</span> +Sockna on Government business. He was to receive +money from the Kaed, and pay money to him. The +Kaed would not pay, and he would not pay. The old +gentleman sat down before the irritated functionary, and +holding the teskera and a new Turkish passport in his +hand, said, "Give me my rights. Why rob you a poor +man? Is it because I am poor and old you rob me? +Fear I the Sultan? Why should I fear you or the +Sultan? I fear alone God." The excited Kaed could +no longer restrain himself. He seized the papers out of +the hands of the Arab and tore them to pieces, exclaiming, +"Go out, you dog!" Besides this the Kaed +threatened the bastinado. The hangers-on of his Excellency +carried the old man out of the apartment until the +wrath of their dwarf tyrant had cooled down. The +affair afterwards ended by both parties accepting and +paying their mutual claims. The Arabs are greatly +exasperated about these passports, which, indeed, are of +no possible use, and are only used by these petty functionaries +to extort money from the poor people. An +Arab said to me, showing the animus of the question +hereabouts, "Before our Sultan became a Christian we +never heard of these teskeras. Now that he is become +an infidel, he sends us these accursed things to take away +our money, and rob our children of bread." The poor +Sultan, in fact, if he can get hold of any detestable +thing of European civilization, is sure to adopt it, to +torment his subjects.</p> + +<p>Spent the rest of the day within the Castle, gossiping +with the Arab soldiers, their Sheikh, and the Kaed. To-day +I was thankful for two things, for having inflicted a +salutary lesson on the iniquitous slave-driver, and for<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-450" id="V2-450"></a>[<a href="images/2-450.png">450</a>]</span> +being sheltered from the sun and wind. The Castle has +three towers at three of its corners, but not rising much +higher than the upper terrace walls. The outer walls are +about twelve or fifteen feet high, and as usual pierced +with holes for musketry. I did not see any mounted +ordnance. Within is a fine court yard, and there is a +detached breast-work of defence over the entrance. +It is very comfortable in many of its apartments, affording +a most effectual shelter from wind and heat. +The short time of service makes the Arab soldiers +cheerful, and they are pretty well fed and enjoy good +health. There is no fever, but they tell me there are a +few cases of the <i>Enghiddee</i> of Soudan, a fine silken worm +formed under the cuticle of the body, mostly on the legs +and arms, already described under the name of Arak-El-Abeed<a name="FNa_2-57" id="FNa_2-57"></a><a href="#FoN_2-57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a>. +Arabs do not catch this disorder so much +as merchants going to Soudan. The only arms these +troops have, is the matchlock or musket, on some of +which the bayonet is mounted. From the top of the +Castle the surrounding country presents an unbroken +mass of desert, and more distantly low ridges of mountains +and sand hills. The Kaed assures me, however, +that in seven years he will have a fine plantation of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-451" id="V2-451"></a>[<a href="images/2-451.png">451</a>]</span> +palms. He has planted several, and is about to fetch +some choice shoots from Tripoli. With toil and care +The Desert, in truth, can not only be rendered habitable +and tractable, but even comfortable, as the building of +this fort well proves. It has been built since Mr. Gagliuffi +passed this way to Mourzuk, and I am the only +European who has seen this bran-new town of Bonjem. +The Bashaw of Tripoli boasts of it as his work, and +on my return begged me to give him a sketch of it, +which I did, but for which I received no thanks. A +few snakes are often seen coiling themselves on the shrubs, +gazelles, aoudads, and wild oxen, skip and bound and run +about, now and then an ostrich races past or sails along, +half in heaven and half on earth, and deebs (wolves) +come down to drink at the pits during the night. But +the Arabs are not allowed to hunt, nor garden or dig; +their duty is to spend the live-long day in "strenuous +idleness," or doing nothing but sleep and lounge. To-day +was hot and sultry. The female slaves were very +busy in washing themselves. They afterwards had a +good race stark naked, running after me and grinning. +It is very seldom they commit such breaches of modesty. +In general, the Negress is very modest in her manners, +more so than Mooresses.</p> + +<p>I congratulated myself in having a comfortable sleep +under roof to-night. I felt glad also for a rest here of +a couple of days. In travelling through Sahara, one or +two days greatly relieve you without making you feel +that you have been stopping when you again mount the +camel, whilst a rest of a week often makes a new journey +and a new tour, and you feel all the pain and misery of +beginning again.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-452" id="V2-452"></a>[<a href="images/2-452.png">452</a>]</span></p> + +<p><i>6th to the 11th.</i>—My journal gets very fragmentary, +confused, and enigmatical. Many of the memorandums +I cannot recal to mind. I find I was getting at this time +much exhausted, and weary of writing. My health, indeed, +was being greatly undermined, and suffering was +become my daily solace! Often I could not stand when +lifted off my camel. Sometimes I was senseless for an +hour or two after we had encamped. I expected "to get +used to it." Vain thought! I was just as tired and +stiff with riding the last day as the first day when I +started on the tour, besides having my health and strength +essentially impaired.</p> + +<p>We directed our course to Misratah, instead of Benioleed, +on account of there being more water in the former +route. Benioleed, or Ben Waleed—‮بن وليد‬—lies to the +north-west of Bonjem, but Misratah nearly due north. I +was disappointed in not seeing Benioleed, on account of +its Hesperian valley of olives, and other fruit-trees scattered +in paradisal beauty and profusion. The valley, in +which the town is situate, lies at the base of some of the +lofty ridges of the Tripoline Atlas, and contains a population +of about three thousand souls. I was glad to +hear there were some Europeans now employed in +improving the wells of the town, sent by the Bashaw, +all which denotes progress in the Turk. Benioleed +is six good days' journey from Bonjem, and four or five +from Tripoli.</p> + +<p>Nothing remarkable occurred in our route from Bonjem +to Misratah. Before arriving at Bonjem, I saw, by +the nature of the country, that we were approaching the +regions of rain, herbage and shrubs increasing on every +side. The country also assumed a more even, though an<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-453" id="V2-453"></a>[<a href="images/2-453.png">453</a>]</span> +undulating surface; and I lost sight of those low, dull, +dreary, and monotonous ridges which characterize the +desolations, of the African Wilderness. However, I expected +to see the eastern terminations of the Tripoline +Atlas. Continuing our six days' route, now west, now +north-west, now north, and now north-east and east, +wriggling in serpentine style about, we arrived at length +within open-culture lands, where were two or three small +patches of barley, mostly in ear, not being irrigated, but +left to the free rains of heaven. The sight of these made +my heart bound with joy: now I knew I had got without +the bounds of the dry and desolate Sahara! There +seemed to be something so fresh and natural about barley-fields, +depending for life and growth on the fattening +rains of heaven, in comparison with the garden patches +of grain I had witnessed for months cultivated by the +hand of man. All our people seemed equally affected +by the sight of these natural corn-fields; and Essnousee, +to show his respect for property thus left to the mercy of +every camel-driver, ordered the camels not to be driven +through the standing barley. The camels heeded little +the command, and managed to get large mouthfuls; our +Soudan sheep fed to their full; a good deal was also +destroyed. I observed, nevertheless, the camels preferred +the green tender herbage, to the corn in the ear, and +picked it out carefully between the rows of straggling +barley. With the increase of herbage and water,—for +water was not found in all the route from Bonjem,—the +animals increased. Gazelles bounded before us, at times +in small herds of six or seven; and hares were constantly +started from under the camels' feet. We had no sportsmen +with us, and no game was shot or taken. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-454" id="V2-454"></a>[<a href="images/2-454.png">454</a>]</span> +Arabs ran frequently to the bushes whence the gazelles +bounded, in order to find young ones. Birds now increased +to full flights. Here were numbers of little birds +with yellow body and brown back. This part of The +Sahara had its particular bird, as the rest. The little +black and white fellow higher up was now succeeded by +the little yellow and brown fellow. Other birds were +flying about, but not so numerous as this species. But +the bird that now caught my attention was the gull. At +first I was perplexed to know how this bird could be +found so far up The Desert, but I recollected we had but +six or seven days from Bonjem to Misratah, near the +coast. The gull suggested to my drooping spirits sea-breezes +to restore my shattered frame, and gave me new +life. As we neared Misratah the country increased in +comeliness (because after so much desert), and near Misratah +the hills were actually green and flowery, so long +black and hideously bare. But indeed, it was the best +time of Spring. We passed on every side scattered Arab +tents,—to us pavilions of pleasure,—with their flocks +and herds: all denoting open-culture and the presence +of rain.</p> + +<p>Scarce a ten-thousandth part of this country is reduced +to cultivation. Here and there only are some few +corn-fields, where the seed, when sown, is left to get ripe +as it may, the only manure being the burning of the +stubble of the previous year. We must, indeed, say more +or less of the coast of all North Africa, and express the +same hope for the future in the words of one of the prophets: +"And the desolate land shall be tilled, whereas +it lay desolate in the sight of all that passed by. And +they shall say, This land that was desolate is become like<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-455" id="V2-455"></a>[<a href="images/2-455.png">455</a>]</span> +the garden of Eden; and the waste, and desolate, and +ruined cities are become fenced, and are inhabited." +(Ezek. xxxvi. 34, 35.) North Africa was once the garden +as well as the granary of the world. A series of +disastrous revolutions has successively reduced this once +so fair and fertile region, to waste, barrenness, and barbarism; +the Mahometan fate-doctrine meanwhile hugging +and conserving its ruins and dilapidations. We may +perhaps hope, the French are doing something for the +Algerian coast. The Turks may yet do something in +Tripoli. Tunis and Morocco have more cultivated lands +than Tripoli or Algeria, and reforms are agitating both +countries. Once the spirit of improvement gets fairly into +this region, it may resume its ancient celebrity of being +"like the garden of Eden." Near Misratah, I observed, +for the first time in my tour, the hawthorn-tree: it was +reddened over with nice ripe haws.</p> + +<p>On the evening of the <i>6th</i>, we passed the spot where +Abd-El-Geleel was decapitated, called Bughalah ("mule"). +This was a small piece of mountain, looking abruptly over +a wady, or deep valley. On this mountain block the +Sheikh concentrated all his military forces, collecting as +well the families of his tribe. Here he skirmished with +the Turks for many days, he winning and they winning +a battle, as it happened; but they, at length hemming +him round, and isolating him on the rock, where there +was not a drop of water to be had, the Sheikh finally was +obliged to surrender. His retiring to this hideous rock +was only matched in folly by his confiding in the faith of +a Turk. Truly, when men are to be destroyed, their evil +genius inspires them with madness.</p> + +<p>On the <i>8th</i>, we took in water from the well of<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-456" id="V2-456"></a>[<a href="images/2-456.png">456</a>]</span> +Daymoum. Around were the remains of a fortified +camp, and stones were placed in a large circle. This +camp was erected by Hasan Bashaw, Commander-in-Chief +of the Regency, when he was at war with Abd-El-Geleel. +It looks not unlike a Druidical circle.</p> + +<p>On the <i>9th</i> we took in a little water from the well of +Namwah. Several sea-gulls were here flying about. To-day +I have to mention a fact which shows to what extraordinary +changes of temperature the Great Desert is +subject, as well as Barbary generally. About nine in the +morning a strong ghiblee got up, increasing till it became +so violent that we encamped at once, not venturing to +expose the slaves to this killing simoum. Covering up +my face and mouth, I put my head into a pannier. I +was almost suffocated it is true, still it was better than +exposing myself to the searching flame of this furnace +wind. What became of the slaves I cannot tell, I was too +busy with myself. Here I lay gasping for an hour, when +Said came and called to me, "Now <i>Bahree</i> (‮بحري‬)," or +north. "How, bahree!" I answered astonished. "Bahree! +bahree!" he continued, "the caravan is going." I got +up, and felt sensibly and convincingly enough it was +bahree. The wind had made a whirlwind sweep in the +space of an hour, it was now blowing as hard from +the north as it had done from the south. But strange +yet natural enough, columns of hot air were blown +back into our faces from the north for some time, until, +towards the evening, the wind became as cold, bleak, +and biting, as it had been hot and stifling. These sudden +changes are terrific, and are often attended with most +serious consequences in The Desert. Asking our people +how long a simoum or ghiblee would blow in The Desert,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-457" id="V2-457"></a>[<a href="images/2-457.png">457</a>]</span> +they replied, "Never violently more than a couple of +days." I do not recollect it once to have continued a +whole day, but light south winds have prevailed for +several days. As an instance of the calamitous effects +of sudden changes of weather in North Africa, I may +mention that, in the Spring of 1845, when Sidi Mohammed, +"Bey of the Camp" in the Regency of Tunis, +was returning from the Jereed, he lost, on one day, some +Turks and other troops from the heat, and, on the very +next day, several perished from the cold. Some hundred +camels also died from the cold at the same time. A +recent expedition in Algeria, during which some hundred +French troops were frozen to death, must recur to the +recollection of the reader, having happened from the +same cause of a sudden change of temperature.</p> + +<p>On the <i>10th</i> we came to the well of Saneeah Abdel +Kader, ("Garden of the slave of the Most Mighty," or +God). At this place was a ruined fortress, looking over +an immense district of country, a great quantity of which +was under cultivation, presenting light-green and orange-brown +patches of grain. We passed the stream of +Touwarkah, a name apparently derived from Touwarick, +or Touarick. The bubbling running stream was looked +upon as a wonder by our slaves. They rushed into it, +and washed and bathed themselves, like so many mad +things; indeed, after so much dry desert, the stream was +a wonder to us all. I had almost begun to think I +should never see again a large running stream. But I +have seen the negresses wash their faces, hands and +legs, on the coldest morning. An Arab or a Moor +hardly washes himself once a month. These habits of +cleanliness the negresses bring from the banks of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-458" id="V2-458"></a>[<a href="images/2-458.png">458</a>]</span> +Niger. We had the village of Touwarkah on our right, +to which was attached a forest of palms, nearly half a +day's journey in length. I had scarcely spoken a +word to Essnousee during these last five days, but, on +the morning of the 11th, he entered voluntarily into +conversation with me, informing me there was an English +quarantine agent at the port of Misratah. The slave-driver, +getting nearer to the coast, had cunningly abated +his ardour for beating the slaves. He now began to fear +he might get reported to the Bashaw. Sometimes, however, +he would throw a stone at the poor things, that is, +when too idle to go and flog them. I looked about in +vain for the Atlas chain, or the last of its eastern links; +one mass of undulating country stretched to the sea-shore. +What feeling of excessive joy thrilled through my nervous +frame when our people talked of the sea, for though not +visible to us, we were near enough to breathe its invigorating +air. Now, indeed, all was changed, and new life +took possession of the entire caravan. The green and +pleasant spring cultivation, the darkly fair verdure of +several young olive-trees, here and there a graceful palm, +now broad leafy shadowy fig-trees, the delicate almond and +the pretty pomegranate, all the treasures of the gardens +of Misratah, raised our joy to ecstasy. I myself often +thought I should never see again Tripoli, or the sea; +now they seemed restored to me, and I to them, as if at +one time they had been hopelessly lost! But how small +had all objects become, how diminutive, how confined, +limited and contracted their dimensions, and how pretty +yet how petty, compared to the vast huge and limitless lines +of existence, which form and circumscribe the Great Saharan +Regions! where I had travelled so many long months.<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-459" id="V2-459"></a>[<a href="images/2-459.png">459</a>]</span> +When I first arrived in Africa, I looked upon the dark +and purple mountains of the coast with a species of +mysterious feeling, as if such mountain groups were +boundless in extent, unfathomable and unsearchable in +their stronghold foundations. But now, returning again +to the regions of Atlas, the chains of this celebrated +range in Tripoli, Tunis, and Algeria, seemed like old +familiar faces to me, or so many contracted domestic +objects. My eye had been so accustomed to gazing day +after day over plains without an apparent bound, on +mountain ridges running along weeks and weeks of +Desert journeying, that it could now only regard all the +African coast scenery as so many pretty little painted +landscapes, which might be reduced and easily accommodated +to stage scenery at a minor theatre.</p> + +<p>On the arrival of our ghafalah at Misratah, I was +introduced to the quarantine agent, Signor Francesco +Regini, an Italian born in Tripoli, but under British +protection, and having a Maltese wife. Regini begged +me to put up in his house, and I accepted his kindly +proffered invitation, when his wife cooked me a fowl and +I dined like a prince. I now thought I would return to +Tripoli by sea, to get a little bracing sea-air, but afterwards +I determined to continue with the caravan of +slaves to Tripoli, to see the last of the poor things, or +accompany them till their arrival at the Tripoline market +of human flesh.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-56" id="FoN_2-56"></a><a href="#FNa_2-56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> As the description of the <i>Simoum</i> ("poisoned" wind, from +‮سمّ‬ "poison"), given by the following writers, is the account of +men, who were <i>bonâ fide</i> Saharan travellers, I shall take the +liberty of transcribing their various relations:— +</p><p> +"Nothing can be more overpowering than the South wind +(Ghibee,) or the East, (Shirghee), each of which is equally to be +dreaded. In addition to the excessive heat and dryness of these +winds, they are impregnated with sand, and the air is darkened by +it, the sky appears of a dusky yellow, and the sun is barely perceptible. +The eyes become red, swelled and inflamed; the lips +and skin parched and chapped; while severe pain in the chest is +generally felt, in consequence of the quantities of sand unavoidably +inhaled. Nothing, indeed, is able to resist the unwholesome effects +of this wind. On opening our boxes, we found the many little +articles, and some of our instruments which had been carefully +packed, were entirely split and destroyed. Gales of the kind here +described, generally continue ten or twelve hours."—<span class="smcap">Lyon.</span> +</p><p> +"I derived some benefit from fastening a strip of cotton over my +eyes, and another over my mouth, to keep off the burning air +which parched my lungs. The burning East wind which was +beginning to blow rendered the heat insufferable, and the scorching +sand found its way into our eyes, in spite of the precautions which +we took to exclude it. Tepid water was distributed, which we +thought delicious, though it had little effect in quenching our thirst. +My thirst was so tormenting that I found it impossible to get any +sleep. My throat was on fire, and my tongue clove to the roof +of my mouth. I lay as if expiring on the sand, waiting with the +greatest impatience for the moment when we were to have our next +supply of water. I thought of nothing but water—rivers, streams, +rivulets, were the only ideas which presented themselves to my +mind during this burning fever. In my impatience I cursed my +companions, the country, the camels, and for anything I knew, the +sun himself, who did not make sufficient speed to reach the +horizon."—<span class="smcap">Caillie.</span> +</p><p> +"The Simoum felt like the blast of a furnace. To describe this +awful scourge of The Desert, defies all the powers of language. +The pencil assisted by the pen might perhaps afford a faint idea +of it, winged with the whirlwind and charioted with thunder, it +urged its fiery course, blasting all nature with its death-fraught +breath. It was accompanied by a line of vivid light, that looked like +a train of fire, whose murky smoke filled the whole wide expanse, +and made its horrors only the more vivid. The eye of man, and +the voice of beast were both raised to heaven, and both then fell +upon the earth. Against this sand tempest all the fortitude of man +fails, and all his efforts are vain. To Providence alone must we +look. It passed us, burying one of my camels. As soon as we +rose from the earth, with uplifted hands for its preservation, we +awoke to fresh horrors. Its parching tongue had lapped the water +from our water-skins, and having escaped the fiery hour, we had +to fear the still more awful death of thirst."—<span class="smcap">Davidson.</span></p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-57" id="FoN_2-57"></a><a href="#FNa_2-57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> This disease is the <i>Filaria Medinensis</i>, or Guinea Worm. +The rude Arabs give a sort of Shakesperian witches' receipt for the +cure of this disease, such as the liver of a vulture, the brains of an +hyæna, the dung of the ostrich, mixed with other wonderful ingredients. +This reminds me of the receipt of my Ghadamsee Doctor +for the cure of <i>Night Blindness</i>, which here followeth:—"<i>Description +of a remedy by which affliction (or blindness) of the sight is +cured at night</i>. Take the liver of a goat, or the liver of a camel, +and cut off a piece of it, mince it small, and take also a couple of +‮سحر‬? and reduce it to a fine powder, and rub them together, and +place them on the fire so that the water boils or simmers, and then +drop (or pour) the water on the eye, and <i>it will straightway see</i>."</p></div> +</div> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-460" id="V2-460"></a>[<a href="images/2-460.png">460</a>]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXI" id="CHAPTER_XXXI"></a>CHAPTER XXXI.</h2> + +<h3>FROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Establishment of Signor Regini.—Visit the Acting Kaed of +Misratah.—Shabby Conduct of Mehemet Pasha to Regini.—Description +of the Villages comprised within the Jurisdiction of +Misratah.—Population and Condition of the Jews in Misratah +and Tripoli.—Regini sighs for the honour of hoisting the +Union Jack.—Village of Zeiten.—Leghma; and the tapping of +the Date-Palm.—Corn Fields and Grain Culture in North +Africa.—Manipulation.—Sahel or Salhin; its splendid Gardens.—The +Eastern <i>Terminus</i> groups of Mount Atlas.—Ruins of Lebida; +and other Ancient Ruins.—Monosyllabic Old Moor.—Meet +the Bey of Misratah.—Wad Seid, and plain of El-Jumr.—The +Sand-Storm.—Our Slaves' first sight of the Sea.—Said left +behind.—Essnousee foiled in attempting to beat one of his +Slaves.—Trait of the Tender Passion in our Troop of Slaves.—Result +of my Observations on the Saharan Slave Traffic.—Gardens +of Tajourah.—The Gardens of the Masheeah.—Distance, +Time, and Expenses of my Tour.—Disposal of Said, and the +Camel.</p></div> +<p> </p> + +<p><i>12th.</i>—<span class="smcap">Easter Sunday.</span> It is a grand <i>festa</i> with +Signor Regini, and his family are dressed out in their +best. They are the only family of Christians in this +town, but keep the <i>festa</i> with as much religious zest and +zeal as if in Malta or Rome. Poor Regini gets only +twelve dollars a month from the Pasha of Tripoli for his +employment of quarantine agent, and is obliged to look +after three ports, for Misratah has three ports, at a +considerable distance from each other, as well as several +hours' ride from the town. Visited with Regini the +acting Kaed or Governor of this place, and brother of +the Bey, now in Tripoli. The Kaed stared stupidly at<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-461" id="V2-461"></a>[<a href="images/2-461.png">461</a>]</span> +me whilst relating to him some things about the Touaricks. +He was astonished they treated me so well, instead of murdering +me, as he thought they had a right, or ought to +have done. This Moorish beast finished by consulting +me respecting his health, and begging physic, but which +I refused to give him, seeing his indisposition proceeded +from sheer indolence. His people, or officers of the +place, were all amazed at my travelling as I was, and +wondered what I could be doing. Mr. Regini heard one +say, "The Christian has written the country; the +English are coming to take all this land." Another +observed, "This Englishman is a dervish, and is mad. +His friends send him here to get rid of him." I took +no interest whatever in the interview, feeling thoroughly +tired of my tour and the people. The Kaed had heard +some merchants say, "The Touaricks are a people of one +word," which he now repeated, and which was a good +satire upon himself and his Moorish brethren, "A people +of ten thousand words." The Kaed informed me of the +safe arrival of Haj Ibrahim, and the rest of his party, at +Tripoli.</p> + +<p>Regini's house is a constant resort of visitors and +idlers. Amongst the objects of attraction, is Mr. R.'s +pretty little daughter, who turns the heads of all the +Moors. Mr. R. says the Pacha is going to build him a +larger house, and allow it him rent-free, as an increase of +salary. This His Highness, indeed, promised to do. But +Mehemet Pasha showed the usual and insulting duplicity +of the Turk, for the Consul-General heard afterwards +that, instead of giving Regini a new house, he increased +the rent of his old one. This unhandsome conduct of +the Pasha so enraged Colonel Warrington, that, on hear<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-462" id="V2-462"></a>[<a href="images/2-462.png">462</a>]</span>ing +it, after he had invited the Bashaw to dine with him +at his garden, the Colonel determined to withdraw the +invitation, or rather not give the dinner. So the Pasha's +dining at the British garden did not come off, much to +my annoyance, for I wished to have been present at the +dinner. These little bits of Turkish duplicity irritate +and annoy our Consuls more than acts of tyrants like +Asker Ali.</p> + +<p>Visited the environs in the evening. Picked up some +chamomile flowers, which abound in the lanes and highways. +The barilla plant is also very common; it is collected +and burnt, and the ashes exported in considerable +quantities. Several ponds of water are found during +winter in this neighbourhood, which are frequented by +numerous flights of wild-duck, affording capital game +for the hungry sportsman. Date-palms are now in +blossom, whose flowers are all at first encased in a pod. +Essnousee tells me, Abd-El-Geleel destroyed the palms +of Sockna by simply cutting off the tops or heads of the +palms, in the same way as people do when they tap +palms for leghma. Some of them grow again, others do +not, it being all a matter of chance. The date-palm +is most abundantly cultivated on the Tripoline Coast, +supplying the people with a full third of their food.</p> + +<p><i>13th.</i>—Misratah is an aggregate or series of villages, +scattered about to an extent of a full day's journey, containing +about 12,000 inhabitants, two-thirds Moors, the +rest Arabs, Negroes, and Jews. The houses and other +buildings make but a mean appearance, built of mud and +stones, and some of lime-mortar. There are a few Marabets +shining beautifully white in the sun, with light +and chaste cupola tops. A drawing of one of these is<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-463" id="V2-463"></a>[<a href="images/2-463.png">463</a>]</span> +given, that of Sidi Salah. The Marabet is a common, +but fair and picturesque, feature in coast scenery. The +bazaar, or market of Misratah, is held three times a +week, but in different places of the villages included +within this circle of jurisdiction. The principal port is +three or four hours from the central village, the inhabitants +not enjoying an immediate view of the sea, so +delightful on the North African Coast. The grand cultivation +is dates, but not of good quality, then barley +and wheat (the most of the former), olives, figs, and some +other fruit-trees. Oxen, goats, and sheep, are in numbers, +and there is a considerable export trade in hides +and wool. The markets are pretty well stocked with +provisions, and cheaper than in Tripoli. Nevertheless, +the villages of Misratah are choked full of very poor +destitute people, and during the past year, in the midst +of comparative abundance, many of them lived almost +entirely on herbs. These wretched creatures congregate +in Misratah from all the neighbouring districts, the +Gharian and Gibel mountains, the village of Touarghah, +and other places. The same system of spoliation by +Government is going on here as in other provinces of +Tripoli, the inhabitants being reduced gradually to most +complete beggary. Every year the number of poor increases, +whilst the taxes on land, under the curse of +Turkish oppression, as fatally increase, reducing all to +serfdom, leaving not an acre of land in the hands of the +people, excepting those lands protected by the sanctuaries +of religion. The civil power in this country has no conscience; +the people are alone protected from annihilation +by their religion.</p> + +<p>Fifty families of Jews are located in these villages,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-464" id="V2-464"></a>[<a href="images/2-464.png">464</a>]</span> +occupied as brokers and petty traders, or in making +essences. They pay a poll-tax of a hundred mahboubs +per annum to the Pasha. They have two synagogues, +and a Rabbi superintending them. Rabbi Samuel says he +has heard there are Jews in Soudan. Lyon has mentioned +the same report, and locates Jews south from Timbuctoo, +supposing them to have gone originally from Morocco. +Many of the Tripoline mountains contain Jews, and in +Misratah there are a hundred families. As a specimen +of the state of Biblical learning and literature amongst +these Jews, I give the following conversation I had with +Rabbi Samuel. He explained the 53rd chap. of Isaiah as +referring to another and a past suffering Messiah, the +Messiah of Ephraim, the son of Ephraim, and not the son +of David, who is to be the future and conquering Messiah. +To Philip's question, "Of whom speaketh the prophet +this?" &c. (Acts viii. 34), he candidly answered, acknowledging +that the prophet spake not of himself, but the +suffering Messiah. The epithets ‮אל גבור‬ and ‮אבי־עד‬, +in Is. ix. 6, 7, the Rabbi explained, as denoting the +reign of Messiah to be full of peace and happiness for +all mankind, quoting Psalm lxxii., observing properly, +the words first refer to Solomon, and then to the Messiah. +Asking him for a passage of the Pentateuch, referring to +the future state, he replied;—"Moses did not speak at +all of a future state; Moses intended to have done so +when he got to Jerusalem, and settled the people in the +Holy Land; but having offended God, he was not permitted +to enter there, and was prevented from communicating +knowledge about the future world. But you +will find in the commentaries all the information you +require." He could not tell where the future state was<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-465" id="V2-465"></a>[<a href="images/2-465.png">465</a>]</span> +spoken of in the prophets, so I pointed out to him +Daniel xii. 2, 3. Rabbi Samuel now bestowed on me +the honorary title of English Marabout, earnestly recommending +me to call on Rabbi Jacob at Tripoli, the +mighty scholar of the Regency. He added:—"The +Mussulmans say that our Messiah will conquer them +first; but afterwards, they (the Mussulmans) will recover +their strength and dominion, and destroy us and our +Messiah. You see they are idiots." So much for +Jewish learning in Tripoli.</p> + +<p>Signor Regini is an original in his way. Speaking of +an old man about taking a young wife, he observed, +"Growing old, he became young." Of himself, he says, +"<i>Noi siamo molto respetati qui</i> (We are much respected +here)."</p> + +<p>"So you ought to be," I replied, "for I would not live +here to be despised."</p> + +<p>"Stop, Signore Inglese," he rejoined abruptly, "I am +the first man here. You are a learned man, and have +travelled all over the world, and you know Latin; '<i>Aut +Cæsar, aut nullus</i>,' that's my motto. I only want the +flag here. Get me appointed British Consul. I don't +want a salary. Then shall I be a greater man than the +Bey of Misratah."</p> + +<p>I promised, as in duty bound, after this sally of modest +ambition, to mention his wish to the Consul-General. +The fact is, Regini is a very deserving man, and could +he hoist the Union Jack, might benefit British subjects +and promote British interests at the same time that +he gratified his own Cæsar-like ambition.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we left Misratah for Tripoli, our last +stage. We found the gardens of Misratah very agreeable,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-466" id="V2-466"></a>[<a href="images/2-466.png">466</a>]</span> +getting clear of them by night, and encamping in a hilly +country, covered with the delicious green of spring, with +nibbling snowy flocks scattered and feeding, and Arabs' +tents pitched, "black, but comely." But I was surprised +to see so few Arabs' tents and douwars in this Regency. +In fact, the Arabs of Tripoli are nearly all located and +confined to The Mountains.</p> + +<p><i>14th.</i>—Afternoon, arrived at <i>Zeitin</i>, a small village. +The palm is abundant as usual, and the gardens are +full of olive and other Barbary fruit-trees. On encamping, +I purchased some <i>Leghma</i>—‮لقمة‬—according to +some philologists, "tears" of the palms, and others "foam," +from the fermenting quality of the sap. At this season +many trees are tapped, being, indeed, the tapping season. +When a tree is tapped, a small hut of palm-branches, +cut from off the tapped palm, is set up close to it, +which is turned into a sort of <i>tap</i>-room, or boozing-place, +for drinking the leghma, and half a dozen Moorish louting +fellows are always seen idling and skulking about the +hut, or sweltering with intoxication inside, as long as +the tree yields the spirituous juice. A tree, if a good +one, will yield its sap for two months, and sometimes +a few days more. You can purchase a tree, tap it +and drink of its sap at your pleasure, for only a couple +of dollars. And for this trifle, people will often destroy +their best palms. The leghma is pleasant when quite +new or fresh; when a few days old it becomes very +strong and acrid drinking, continually fermenting. +Moors do not understand drinking leghma, wine or +spirits, for their health, considering the object of drinking +fermented liquor is not attained until they become +intoxicated. In these palm-booths, or huts, the Moors<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-467" id="V2-467"></a>[<a href="images/2-467.png">467</a>]</span> +occasionally bring their provisions, and here they will +pass night and day for weeks together in dreamy drunken +musings, each sot, shut up in himself, making himself +by a drunken and delirious imagination, Kady, or +Sheikh, or Sultan, or some mighty warrior, and all mankind +his slaves and ardent worshippers, as the bent of +mind wildly leads him. Moderation Moors cannot comprehend, +they can neither drink moderately, nor eat +moderately; they must either abstain altogether or eat +or drink like beasts. Of course I speak of their general +character. But such is the case with too many amongst +us, as well as these semi-barbarians.</p> + +<p>We encamped amidst palms and barley-fields. High +wind from the east. The barley was getting ripe very +fast, in some places being reaped. All these crops of +grain are thin, the stalk of the barley short, the ears +small—not the barley or wheat of England certainly. +No part of North Africa furnishes such fine and heavy +corn-fields as my own native county, Lincolnshire; I +might, perhaps, add, no place in the world. The plains +of Morocco furnish thousands of acres of barley<a name="FNa_2-58" id="FNa_2-58"></a><a href="#FoN_2-58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a>, but all +straggling and thinly growing. The wheat is the same. +Add to which, you will find a North African corn-field +full of weeds, herbs, and wild flowers.</p> + +<p><i>15th.</i>—Helping up my little Negro to a ride this +morning, as the camel ascended a hillock he was pitched +off in a summerset. A slave immediately got hold of him +and began to stretch his neck for fear it was broken, +and otherwise pull and manipulate him, holding him up +by the head and neck. Manipulation and pulling and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-468" id="V2-468"></a>[<a href="images/2-468.png">468</a>]</span> +stretching are favourite appliances of remedy in all this +part of Africa. Manipulation is frequently used at the +baths, and is attended with surprising cures. Every +muscle of the body is stretched, and rubbed, and <i>coaxed</i>. +To burning, bleeding, and charms, some Moorish doctors +add manipulation, as the fourth sovereign remedy. +Early, we reached Sahel (Salhin?). These cultivated +lands are a continuation of Zeiten; but Sahel is in a +much higher state of cultivation. The golden harvest is +nodding over Afric's sunny plains. Fields of ripe barley +are waving in the wind, overshadowed with splendid +palms of young and vigorous growth. Besides there are +most beautiful olive plantations all around us. Essnousee, +who now became a little more familiar, kept crying out +to me with spontaneous admiration, "This is the new +world (<i>Dunyah Jedeed</i>)!" The slave-driver had heard +me praise the vast fields of fertility in America. Sahel, +in fact, is a country of most vigorous and teeming fertility. +But, to-day, from the camel's back, I saw the +sea. How rejoiced I was, after nine months <i>Ocean</i> Desert-travelling, +over sands and rocks, and naked sultry plains, +suffering all sorts of privations and hardships, to see +once more the world of waters! And this, notwithstanding +it had been so often unfriendly to me in my various +travellings by land and water. I kept straining (and +pumping) my lungs to breathe its pure cool air. Sahel +is of considerable extent, but has no nucleus of houses in +the shape of a town, consisting merely of a series of +small villages and detached houses, like our cottage +groups and farms, but, of course, in Moorish style. Extremely +warm to-day, though near the sea. Cleared the +Sahel the afternoon, and, at night, encamped amidst the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-469" id="V2-469"></a>[<a href="images/2-469.png">469</a>]</span> +last groups of the Atlas, spreading and stretching eastwards. +I had observed we were about to enter these terminus +groups and links of the eastern Atlas chain, whilst +at some distance, and easily distinguished them from +those of the Saharan groups and ridges. Their appearance +is strikingly different, being wooded and bristling on +the sides, shooting up in craggy heights, hoary and white +on the uppermost peaks and ridges, as if bitten by +the cold and frost, and bared by the bleak winds of the +sea. The Great Desert ranges, on the contrary, are +naked as nakedness can be, dull, dreary, and dead, +smoothed over as velvet, of black and purple hues, and +look more like mountains which children might paint +than the sterile realities of Old Sahara. Here, amidst +the mountainous scenery of the coast, I could recognise +many of the features of Virgil's description. (Æneidos +b. iv.)</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Jamque volans apicem et latera ardua cernit</span> +<span class="i0">Atlantis duri, cœlum qui vertice fulcit:</span> +<span class="i0">Atlantis, cinctum assidue cui nubibus atris</span> +<span class="i0">Piniferum caput et vento pulsatur et imbri;</span> +<span class="i0">Nix humeros infusa tegit; tum flumina mento</span> +<span class="i0">Præcipitant senis, et glacie riget horrida barba."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>But this grand portrait of Old Atlas, whose brawny +shoulders support our various globe, can only be realized +(during winter) in the Morocco chain of the Atlas, whose +highest peak is Miltsin, in Jibel Thelge, or "Mountain +of Snow." This peak, some 15,000 feet in height, is +near the city of Morocco itself. Dr. Shaw, who never +visited Morocco, was puzzled to apply this classic description +to the Algerian chains of Atlas. The Atlas +Chain, which here terminates eastward, strikes out into<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-470" id="V2-470"></a>[<a href="images/2-470.png">470</a>]</span> +the ocean just below Santa Cruz, in Morocco, being its +western termination; but, in Tunis, at many places, it +is interrupted in its connecting links. I was delighted +to find a number of beautiful fruit-gardens, so many +Hesperian spots, in the small valleys of these Atlas +groups, observing for the first time the vine cultivated +in vineyards. Several pleasant fields of the vine +adorned the valleys. But the date-palm disappears in +these mountains, whilst the olive increases, crowning the +lower groups of Atlas, or spreading in large fields in the +valleys. Patches of wheat and barley are also cultivated +on the mountain sides. Arab stone-built villages +are seen scattered through the rising groups and valleys. +I am told these gardens belong to people in Tripoli. +They are the sweetest, prettiest, loveliest little things +which I have seen in all my nine months' tour. Oh, <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'that that'">that</ins> +these valleys were full of them!</p> + +<p>At noon, we passed the ruins of Lebida (or Lebdah) +on our right, situate on the sea-shore, several miles out +of the line of route. What nonsense to believe Cicerones +in these parts. Regini told me I should be sure +to see Lebida, for it was in the road—that is to say, +five or six miles off, behind sand-hills. The whole of +the ground, from Sahel to these first groups of Eastern +Atlas, is scattered over with Roman and Greek ruins, +and, as it happens, there is a huge piece of an ancient +building in the road itself, apparently a temple. I was +too weak, however, to descend from the camel, to look +closely at it. Many of these mountain-ridges are +crowned with ancient forts, and farther on, when we +arrived close by the sea-shore, we observed the remains +of a Roman road,—a firm broad layer of cement and<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-471" id="V2-471"></a>[<a href="images/2-471.png">471</a>]</span> +small stones embedded in the shifting sands. This was +making a road in a business-like, dominion-like style, +and worthy of those once mighty masters of the world. +In our traverse of the mountains we met the Bey of +Misratah returning from Tripoli, full of the confidence +of his Turkish master the Pasha, and very splendidly +attired though <i>en route</i>, with some dozen mounted +Moors, all very gay, showing themselves off on their +prancing barbs. Essnousee, with all our people, descended +from their camels to pay their respects to these +big-wigs, and made them a present of some crushed +Sockna dates, called Krum. Here new cavalry horses +were feeding, attended by the Nitham, or new troops. +The Turks in Tripoli have but one small troop of horse.</p> + +<p>The old Moor with one slave, and I frequently had +some serious talk together, but I could seldom draw him +out. I spoke to him about Said to-day.</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"I don't know what to do with Said. If I +take him to my country, the cold will hurt him, and +perhaps he'll die."</p> + +<p><i>Old Moor.</i>—"Rubbee (God)!"</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"I thought of giving him my camel, and +letting him turn camel-driver; but the Arabs are such +thieves, they will soon steal the camel from him."</p> + +<p><i>Old Moor.</i>—"Rubbee (God)!"</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"He's such a goose, too, he gives away all +he has."</p> + +<p><i>Old Moor.</i>—"Rubbee (God)!"</p> + +<p><i>Myself.</i>—"Perhaps I shall leave Said at Tripoli."</p> + +<p><i>Old Moor.</i>—"If it please God."</p> + +<p><i>16th.</i>—All the morning we continued to traverse the<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-472" id="V2-472"></a>[<a href="images/2-472.png">472</a>]</span> +Atlas groups. I found the lesser summits of these +groups also strikingly contrasted with the Saharan +ridges. Here were heights crowned with fresh and +green cultivation. On the contrary, the Saharan mountain +tops are covered with lava and columnar green +stone, and overstrewn with other loose stones, forming +an extensive black and dreary plain. At noon, we got +upon undulating ground, a great part of which was +under cultivation, with here and there sheep and cattle +grazing. Encamped in the Wady Seid (Zag). This +undulating ground is sometimes called the fertile plain +of El-Jumr. Wady Seid is now quite dry, but evidently +has a strong and large current during the winter +rains. In the course of this day's march, crossed many +small but deep dry ravines, all of which have water in +the winter. No hares or gazelles were started in these +few days' journey from Misratah, the country being generally +populated, but birds increased on every side. +Noticed here, as in Tunis, a great variety of beetles. +North Africa, indeed, is the classic land of beetles; also +a few snakes and many lizards were observed. Our +people now all shaved their heads and washed, changing +their linen in preparation for our entering Tripoli to-morrow +or next day. A Moor will wear a shirt three +months, an Arab, six months or a year. They cannot +comprehend the necessity of the frequent changes of +linen by Europeans. And yet, Moors will take a bath +once or twice a day, whilst they re-put on their linen for +three months together.</p> + +<p><i>17th.</i>—When we started this morning we fully expected +to reach Tripoli in the evening, at least I did,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-473" id="V2-473"></a>[<a href="images/2-473.png">473</a>]</span> +leaving the ghafalah at Tajourah. But, after we had +marched a few hours, the sky was suddenly overcast, and +the wind blew until it became a horrible tempest—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Sudden the impetuous hurricanes descend,</span> +<span class="i0">Wheel through the air, in circling eddies play,</span> +<span class="i0">Tear up the sands, and sweep whole plains away."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>We got safely over Wady Rumel, whose bed is +covered with reeds, having besides a good deal of stagnant +water. My nagah forded the river as well as any +of the camels, if not better. We now entered the sands +of the sea-shore, and after two hours sat down to eat a +few dates. We resumed our march through the sands +which line the margin of the sea, the wind meanwhile +blowing a perfect gale.</p> + +<p>Now I witnessed what I had not seen in my nine +months' Saharan travel, a veritable sandstorm. The wind +so filled the air with sand, that we could hardly see, or +get on groping our way, and we were obliged to hold on +our camels, for fear of being blown off. Our poor slaves +shrunk back aghast from the tempest, whilst the sea now +and then broke open upon them through the sand groups, +showing, to their amazement, its most tempestuous +aspect.</p> + +<p>Assuredly this, their first sight of the sea, will be +associated in memory hereafter with the greatest and +most cruel sufferings of our poor slaves, for to-day they +suffered unusually from the wind and cold—the tempest +of sand blinding them, and the miserable creatures +falling continually on the wayside. I secured my +eyes and face from the sand by tying round them a +dark silk handkerchief, through which I saw my way<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-474" id="V2-474"></a>[<a href="images/2-474.png">474</a>]</span> +without getting eyes, ears, and mouth full of sand. All +our animals, as well as our people, had a thick coating +of sand round their eyes, the cold and wind making +their eyes run, and the water collecting the sand. +Unable to proceed farther, we were obliged to encamp +about 2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, close by the sea-shore, under the shadow +of a great cliff, the spray of the waves washing our feet +and resting-place, and the noise of their chafing and +roaring stunning our ears, whilst the sand-storm worked +its way of desolation over our heads. The slaves surprised +by this new sight of the sea, lashed into its wildest +form, stared with wonder and horror at the tempest-tossed +waters; some grinned and chattered with their +teeth; others looked savage and moody, as if asking, +"Whether the devils of the white men inhabited these +waters?" whilst others, cowered down and sinking, hid +their faces under their tattered clothes. I love to look +upon the sea in its wildest shape, possessed by the tempest, +and am disposed to be very poetical about it, but, +mind you, rather from the land, than pitching over its +briny foamy billows. We had some rain, and the cold was +intense during the night. In very deed, it seemed as if +heaven and earth were conspiring against the wretched, +slaves the nearer they approached the end of their sufferings! +Still there was an end of this, as of all things, +and God sent us fair weather the next day. I was +grievously afflicted about Said this night. He had +suddenly disappeared during the sandstorm, and what +had become of him I could not tell. I kept asking +myself, "Whether he was doomed to perish at the gates +of Tripoli, on his return, after his painfully wearying +journey?" I sent out people on all sides. No tidings<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-475" id="V2-475"></a>[<a href="images/2-475.png">475</a>]</span> +were brought of him. All was a blank...... We +called, and called...... No answer.</p> + +<p><i>18th.</i>—Started early, but without Said. I began to +be overwhelmed with sadness at his unaccountable disappearance. +My impression was, when more calm, that +he had overslept himself during the day, whilst we rested +an hour to eat a few dates on the sand, and the slaves +walking with him, or his companions, allowed him to +sleep on without waking him. I missed him immediately, +but was told he was a short way behind and +would soon be up to us. As he was in the habit of +loitering behind in this way, I saw no reason for not +believing what the slaves said. However, I lectured +the slaves and all the people, knowing he could not +have been left behind without some trick, or connivance +on their part, threatening to bring them up before the +Pasha. This startled them, and they were all uneasy. +Before, they seemed to care no more about it than if +a dog had been left behind. But at noon, Said was +brought up by an Arab who had found him on the roadside, +lost and wandering about. He pretended he had +been sick and stayed behind voluntarily, afraid to +accuse the slaves to me of their unkindness in leaving +him sleeping on the sands. Said knew very well we +had fed them and clothed them often <i>en route</i>, and the +sick had often been placed on my camel, whilst I walked +wearily over Desert. I really felt deeply wounded +at this ingratitude of the slaves, but I believe it was +a trick planned by Essnousee, to give us annoyance. +Poor Said had slept all night in open Desert, amidst +sand and wind, and cold and rain, with nothing to<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-476" id="V2-476"></a>[<a href="images/2-476.png">476</a>]</span> +eat. His lips were blanched and his eyes streamed with +water. I got him placed on a camel.</p> + +<p>The wind continues to blow high, and the storm still +lingers late, scattering about sand. Several of the +female slaves are placed on the camels from utter exhaustion. +Others are cruelly driven on. Just as we +arrive at Tajourah, a negress of tender age falls down +from exhaustion, bleeding copiously from the mouth. +The Arabs on foot cannot get her along. Essnousee, +seeing this, called out, "Beat her, beat her." But the +people not obeying his brutal orders, he immediately +jumped off the camel, taking with him a thick stick to +beat her. As soon as he did this, not being able to +restrain myself, I instantly also jumped off my camel, +and ran after him, taking with me a stick, a match for +his. When I got up to him, surrounded with a group of +people, some of whom were from the neighbouring +village, all striving to save the girl from his stick, I called +out, "Now, stop, stop your stick, we are now in Tripoli; +no more whipping on the road," holding up my stick +and assuming a threatening attitude, determined to +resist the slave-driver at all risks. Seeing this, he +cowered back at once, and screamed out, "Oh, it's a +she-devil!" The people now took courage against the +monster, and said, "No, no, she's exhausted with fatigue +(with the way)." Essnousee then had her carried on the +back of a camel to the village, and afterwards she continued +riding to Tripoli. I was just in the humour for +giving this miscreant slave-driver a thrashing, and taking +on him satisfaction (but a millionth part indeed), for the +torments he had, during forty days inflicted upon these<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-477" id="V2-477"></a>[<a href="images/2-477.png">477</a>]</span> +wretched slaves, and should have done so had he attempted +to beat the poor exhausted bleeding negress. +I felt myself secure enough at the entrance of the +gardens of Tripoli, and could well stand the risk of +being brought up before the Pasha for flagellating an +honourable man-dealer.</p> + +<p>We sat down under some olives a minute, ate a few +dates, drank a little water, and then entered the gardens +of Tajourah, which offered nothing new, except that they +were more richly cultivated than most of those we had +seen on our way. Threading our way amidst the mud +garden walls, I was gratefully soothed with the sight of +increasing culture, and population. A sweet trait of the +tender passion must be here recorded as taking place +amidst this havoc of human cruelty, perpetrated on our +sable brothers and sisters. At the side of my camel +were two young things, a lad and a girl, who every now +and then, when the Moors turned their heads, watching +their opportunity, kept locking one another's fingers +together. The lad now started off as if shot from a +bow, and instantly brought some beans from a neighbouring +garden, and these he presented gracefully to his +lady-love. With such a little innocent incident, and there +were many of the kind, I bid an eternal farewell to this +slave caravan, by stating succinctly the results of my +observations on the traffic in slaves, as carried on in The +Great Desert of Sahara.</p> + +<p><i>1st.</i>—The slave-traffic is on the increase in The Great +Desert; (though temporarily decreasing on the route of +Bornou).</p> + +<p><i>2nd.</i>—Many slaves are flogged to death <i>en route</i> from<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-478" id="V2-478"></a>[<a href="images/2-478.png">478</a>]</span> +Ghat to Tripoli, and others are over-driven or starved +to death.</p> + +<p><i>3rd.</i>—The female slaves are subjected to the most +obscene insults and torments by the Arab and Moorish +slave-drivers; whilst the youngest females (children of +four or five years of age) are violated by their brutal +masters, the Tibboos, in coming from Bornou to Ghat, or +Fezzan.</p> + +<p><i>4th.</i>—Slave children, of five years of age, walk more +than one hundred and thirty days over The Great +Desert, and other districts of Africa, before they can +reach the slave-markets of Tripoli to be sold.</p> + +<p><i>5th.</i>—Three-fourths of the slave-traffic of The Great +Desert and Central Africa, are supported by the money +and goods of European merchants, resident in Tunis, +Tripoli, Algiers, and Egypt.</p> + +<p><i>6th.</i>—A considerable traffic in slaves is carried on in +the Southern Provinces of Algeria, under French protection, +by the Soufah and Shânbah Arabs.</p> + +<p><i>7th.</i>—At present there are no wars carried on in +Central Africa, except those for the capture of slaves, to +supply the markets of Tripoli and Constantinople; (so +far as my information goes).</p> + +<p><i>8th.</i>—Slaves are the grand staple commerce of the +Soudan and Bornou caravans, and without slaves this +commerce could hardly exist. Twenty years ago, the +Sheikh of Bornou reiterated to our countrymen; "You +say that we are all the sons of one father; you say also, +that the sons of Adam should not sell one another; and +you know every thing. God has given you great talents. +What are we to do? The Arabs who come here will<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-479" id="V2-479"></a>[<a href="images/2-479.png">479</a>]</span> +have nothing else but slaves. Why do you not send us +merchants?"</p> + +<p>The gardens of Tajourah are about one and a half +hours' ride. There was then the break of an hour, +where are pools of stagnant salt-water, with snipes +running about. Afterwards we entered the gardens +of the Masheeah, amongst which is the British garden, +or residence of Colonel Warrington. The Masheeah is +a series of mud-walled gardens, or small fields of corn, +fruit, and vegetable cultivation, and houses within the +enclosures. Some of them not unlike town farms. The +whole stretches some ten miles along the sea-shore. +The population of the Masheeah, including Tajourah, is +equal to that of the city of Tripoli itself, if not greater. +These suburban villages have their mosques and religious +establishments. They have besides a separate Governor +from that of the town, and their inhabitants exercise +great political influence during a revolution. In the last, +these people supported one Bashaw, or pretender against +the other, or that of the city. The Masheeah is two-thirds +of a mile from the gates of Tripoli. The houses +and gardens being situate mostly on the east and southeastern +suburbs of the city.</p> + +<p>We arrived in the neighbourhood of the British Consul's +garden an hour before sunset. On the road, near it, +are great gaping holes, very convenient for tumbling in +on a dark night. These holes were dug years ago to +store grain in. The Tripoline Government thinks it not +worth while to fill them up. Immense fig-trees have +grown up in some of these holes. I deemed it prudent +to wait near the Consular Gardens till dark, having +rather a dervish appearance, and being without an<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-480" id="V2-480"></a>[<a href="images/2-480.png">480</a>]</span> +European hat, cap, or shoes. Whilst waiting in a neighbouring +garden, a Moor came up to me and talked, and +then brought me a little cuscasou. I felt sensibly this +trifling manifestation of hospitality on my return.</p> + +<p>It is now just eight months and a half since I left +Tripoli for Ghadames. I have passed eighty days, or +nine hundred and sixty hours, out of this on the camel's +back, and made a tour in The Sahara of some one thousand +six hundred miles. I reckon my distances and days +thus, averaging one with another:—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Days' Journey.</span></h4> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Days Journey"> +<tr><td align='left'>From Tripoli to Ghadames</td><td align='left'>15</td><td align='left'>days</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>From Ghadames to Ghat</td><td align='left'>20</td><td align='left'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>From Ghat to Mourzuk</td><td align='left'>15</td><td align='left'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>From Mourzuk to Tripoli</td><td align='left'>30</td><td align='left'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'> </td><td align='left'>— </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>Total</td><td align='left'>80</td><td align='left'>"</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>These eighty, days, at the rate of twenty miles per +day, make 1600 miles. I walked every day, one day +with another, about two hours, which, at the rate of two +and a half miles per hour, makes the distance of four hundred +miles that I went on foot through the Great Desert.</p> + +<p>I wore out two or three pairs of shoes, but not one +suit of clothes. My Moorish articles of dress I gave to +Said, except the burnouse, which I gave away afterwards +in Algeria. My whole expenses, including servant, camel, +provisions, lodging, Moorish clothes, &c., &c., for the +nine months' tour, did not exceed fifty pounds' sterling, +and nearly half of this was given away in presents to +the people and the various chieftains, who figure in the +journal. I am sure, for I did not keep an exact account,<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-481" id="V2-481"></a>[<a href="images/2-481.png">481</a>]</span> +my expenses did not exceed the round number of fifty +by more than half a dozen pounds. I hope, therefore, I +shall not be blamed for want of economy in Saharan +travelling, especially when it is seen that the Messrs. Lyon +and Ritchie expedition cost Government three thousand +(3000) pounds' sterling, whose journey did not extend +further south than mine, nor did they, indeed, penetrate +so completely into The Sahara as I have done. Capt. Lyon +likewise writes, that without "additional pecuniary supplies," +he could not think of proceeding farther into the Interior, +and accordingly returned. But were a person to ask +me these questions, "Did you spend enough? Did you +supply all your necessary wants? Could you safely recommend +others to follow your example?" I must reply +negatively to them all. This tour, to have been performed +properly, as undertaken only by a private individual, +ought to have cost at least one hundred pounds. +The reader will, perhaps, be inquisitive to know, at +whose expense the journey was accomplished. On this +score, I am also disposed to be as communicative as on +other points, for I do not wish this or that patronage to +be suspected, although certainly the spending of fifty or +sixty pounds' sterling is not a very mighty business. +Well, then, the expenses were paid out of the funds of a +salary granted for correspondence by one of the London +newspapers. So much for the aid supplied by the +Fourth Estate for the prosecution of philanthropic +objects and discoveries in Africa. Let our printers' +devils have their due in these days of universal patronage +and pretension.</p> + +<p>I now lay down and stretched myself at full length +upon the fresh herbage under a sheltering palm, watch<span class='pagenum'><a name="V2-482" id="V2-482"></a>[<a href="images/2-482.png">482</a>]</span>ing +with a silent melancholy the last departing rays of +the sun. I then thought over all my journey, beginning +with the beginning and ending with the end, all the +incidents of the route from first to last, and all the +privations and sufferings I had undergone—praying to +and thanking the Almighty for having delivered me +from every ill and every danger.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Postscript.</span>—Said, on my leaving Tripoli, was committed +to the care of Signor Merlato, the Austrian +Consul, who promised to find him employment, or keep +him in his own service. My poor camel, for which, were +I a poet, I would chant a plaintive strain of adieu! I +was obliged to sell. The Bengazi Arab who bought her +promised me, however, to treat her lightly, and only to +use her to ride upon.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The world and I fortuitously met,</span> +<span class="i0">I owed a trifle, and have paid the debt."</span> +</div></div> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3><span class="smcap">Footnotes:</span></h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="FoN_2-58" id="FoN_2-58"></a><a href="#FNa_2-58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> On the plains of Angadda the French troops, at the battle of +Isly, passed two or three days together through fields of barley.</p></div></div> + +<h4>THE END.</h4> + +<h4>LONDON: HARRISON AND CO., PRINTERS, 45, ST. MARTIN'S LANE.</h4> + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, +in the Years of 1845 and 1846, by James Richardson + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT *** + +***** This file should be named 22094-h.htm or 22094-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/0/9/22094/ + +Produced by Carlo Traverso and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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